54 1 f 1 labglonian iat^a fnr (ttaltfnrma PAUL H. POPENOE ^ 1913 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botaxy, Vol. Ill, No. -2, May. Babylonian Dates for California PAUL B. POPENOE EDITOR OP THE JOURNAL OP HEREDITY, WASHINGTON, D. C. The greatest date-growing region in the world is the country between Mesopotamia and the Persian Gulf, which is now properly called 'Iraq and is a part of Turkey in Asia, but which I shall call by its ancient name of Babylonia, as more familiar to Occidentals. Its dates, which we have been accustomed inaccurately to call "Persian Gulf dates," have long held a practical monopoly of the American market; but when the culture of the palm began to be taken up seriously by California ranchers, they drew nearly all their stock from Algeria, because of the greater accessibility of the North African oases. Most of the varieties thus secured, however, are late in maturing, and when they became well established, it was realized that an extension of the season, by the addition of earlier varieties, would be of great value to the industry here. Late dates like Deglet Nur do not get into market until the fresh importations from Babylonia have arrived, and they must compete with a flood of fruit which can be laid down in the United States for less than five cents a pound. If, however, California growers can market a considerable portion of their crop in August and September, they will have a market empty of dates, when any good fruit will find a ready sale at a remunerative figure. It was known in a general way that the Babylonian varieties would meet this need. The Bureau of Plant Industry of the United States Department of Agriculture had introduced a number of them on an experimental scale, following a visit of David Fairchild to the region in 1903, and among the varieties thus secured were several that ripened earlier than anything there- tofore known in the United States. In fact, Arizona growers did not hesitate to say that the "Persian Gulf" varieties would practically be the making of the industry in their state,* since the best from Algeria matured at a time at which the crop was usually ruined by rain. Under these circumstances, the West India Gardens, of Altadena, Los Angeles County, California, sent me to the region in question, to spend the winter of 1912-1913, make as full a study of the date varieties as possible, and introduce the best of them to the United States on a large scale. I began with a visit to the home of the Fardh date in Oman,t on the eastern coast of Arabia, and then spent nearly four months in Busreh, near the head of the Persian gulf, and Baghdad, 500 miles farther north. In this region I was able to list 112 varieties of dates, descriptions of most of which, including * Popenoe, Paul B., in Bui. Calif. Coram. Hort., I, 10, p. 877. The Arizonans have since come to prefer Egyptian dates. t Popenoe, Paul B., in Bui. Calif. Comm. Hort., Jan., 1914. 460 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany even many of the best, have never before been published, and to bring to California 9,000 offshoots, which arrived in remarkably good condition and are now divided between many growers in the Coaehella Valley and elsewhere. It is my purpose in this paper to describe the varieties of dates grown in Babylonia, not only for the importance which such descriptions will neces- sarily possess for Californians growing the varieties in question, but as a guide for future visitors to that region; for I believe it is the most promising known, from which to draw a large supply of high-grade offshoots for the United States. Although the dates of Busreh are better known, and more important commercially, and are now and always have been* considered, even by Arabs, as the best, my opinion — as is that of my brother, F. W. Popenoc, who accom- panied me. and to whom I am indebted for much assistance in preparing descriptions — is that the Baghdad field is incomparably richer. Commercial- ism at Busreh has tended to restrict planting to the three great export varieties, Hahiwi, Khadhrawi and Sayir, and none of these can be considered a superfine date, although for a steady diet Khadhrawi is as satisfactory as any grown. Yet Halawi is more profitable, since its lighter color makes it a favorite in the American market. The price received for this variety by growers in 1012 (when the crop was large) was $2.22 per maund of 153 pounds. Thi' prices of Ilalawi, Khadhrawi and Sayir. respectively, were in that year as 320:260:220. There is, thus, no doubt as to what is the most profitable date at Busreh, the choicest varieties, like Awaydi and Barhi, being cultivated to a very limited extent indeed. In Baghdad tlie dry date Zahidi is most widely cultivated, and there are no virtues which growers do not ascribe to it. There are many finer ones, but Zahidi has come to be the choice of the nomad tribes who are the chief consumers of Baghdad dates, and as it is early, hardy, vigorous, and unusually prolific, the growers plant it so largely that many groves contain nothing else. It is usually considered the most profitable there, but some growers put Khustawi ahead of it, because of the higher price it commands, in spite of its lighter yield; Asharasi, Maktum and Tabirzal probably come next in order, but the last two are hardly cultivated on a commercial scale and, as a matter of fact, one sees Busreh Khadhrawis sold in the Baghdad bazar more frequently than any of the local varieties. The first ripe dates are eaten by the natives in July, but it must be admitted that an Arab will eat dates when they are still so hard and full of tannin that American hogs would hardly touch them. Perhaps August first might be taken as the commencement of the date season in an average year, while it is not in full swing until a month or six weeks later. Within a month all of tin 1 principal varieties have been picked and sold; in forty days the ♦Besides medieval Aral) writers, cf. Marco Polo's description in the latter half of the 13th century, "There is also on the river (Tigris) as you go from Baudas (Baghdad) to Kisi (Kish) a great city called Bastra (Busreh; classically Basreh). surrounded by woods, in which grow the best dates in the world." — Yule's Ed., I, 60, London, 1871. Gift Vuthor ••rion) JUN 2 ,„ 4 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany 461 parking season is virtually over. The extremely early dates of Babylonia are Ibrahimi, Halawi Makkawi, Balaban, Makkawi Ashqar, Barban, Badinjani and Sultani, while Zahidi and the Busreh Malawi will have to be put on the edge of the list. The later dates, on the other hand, continue to ripen well up to Decem- ber first. Khasab, Hilali, Shatwi, Lului and 'Amain et al Qadhi can be had fresh in any quantity up to the middle of November at least. The dates of the region average well in size, and the dry varieties, in particular, are conspicuously larger than the similar dates of Algeria; they are also of better quality, on the average, while the best of them reach a perfection that was never dreamed of in the Sahara. Babylonia's largest dates, I should say, are 'Awaydi, Bu Saba 'a al Dra'a, Madani, Sayyid Ibrahim and Ism 'ail Qadri, — all of them rare. Arab scientists classify the principal varieties as hot or cold, according as a long-continued and exclusive diet of them "burns" the stomach or not. The distinction is important in a country where people eat little except dates, but it will not be worth considering in the States, where a handful a day is a heavy ration. Khustawi is universally considered the coldest date known: one can eat five pounds daily for a year and never feel them. Barban, at Baghdad, is considered the hottest, but is valued, nevertheless, on account of its earliness. As a matter of fact, not only most of the varieties, but most of the choice varieties, are considered hot. Among the cold ones are Khadhrawi, Sukkari. Shukkar, Amir Hajj, Sukkar Nabat, while Maktiim and Badrahi are placed in an intermediate class, neither hot nor cold, but satisfactory. Asharasi, Tabirzal, I Inlaw i. Zahidi, and Barhi, most of the other dates of sufficient importance to receive classification, are on the hot side of the ledger. As to the best date of the region, Arabs agree in awarding the palm to the Khalaseh of Hasa* which, however, is little grown outside its original home. I think this judgment is correct. My own second choice is Maktiim or Tabirzal, but many of the Baghdadis swear by Sukkari — in fact, that would probably have more votes than any other at the City of the Caliphs. Khustawi has many admirers. The originator of the variety Khiyara declares that none ran equal it. Those partial to dry dates affirm that nothing surpasses Asharasi. At Busreh, 'Awaydi and Barhi are tied for first place. Sultani is the choice of the Hilleh growers. Amir llajj is esteemed, but the rare Jamal al Din, Baqlah and Gul Husaini from the same region are con- sidered quite as good, if not better. Those who have tasted Khasawi al Baghal call it excellent. Brim is considered one of the finest known dates at Baghdad, while at Busreh it is held to be fit only for boiling. In short, it is all a matter of taste, but if one took Barhi, 'Awaydi, Khustawi, Maktum, Tabirzal and Sukkari as the best of the region, he would not lie far wrong; leaving the * Cf. Palgrave, W. G. Narrative of a Year's Journey through Central and Eastern Arabia, vol. II, p. \V2, London, 1865. 462 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany others I have mentioned as second choice, with the incomparable Khalaseh always in a special place of honor. ^-s As for the worst ones, the two Saadas, Sharisi, Ja'afari, Hamrawi, Halajfi and Asshag will have to fight for the leather medal among themselves. One sometimes finds in the bazars worse dates than any of those, but they are merely seedling fruit. The varieties named are as bad as any one would care to perpetuate. Methods of culture differ little in Babylonia from those in other Arab countries, and I therefore omit any description of it, particularly since it has been treated by Fairchild* fully and satisfactorily. In transliterating the Arabic names of date varieties, I have followed the system now universally adopted by scientific men — namely, that consonants should be pronounced as in English and vowels as in the continental languages — e. g., Spanish. This system, which was elaborated by the International Congress of Orientalists at Geneva in 1894, has the merit of being both uniform and simple. The following list, arranged in alphabetical order, contains the varieties which I was able to list in Babylonia, either from my own observations, or from the descriptions of native acquaintances; but as I have recently pub- lished! descriptions of most of the varieties now in California, at some length, I (unit these in order to save duplication. For the following Babylonian varieties the student should, therefore, consult my book on Date Growing: .1 njasi, "The Pyriform." Asibi' al 'Arus, "The Bride's Fingers." Uharasi, "The Tall Growing." 'Awaydi, "The Little Big One." Bajldni, named after a tribe of noted date-growers. Badinjdni, "The Egg-Plant Date." Bdrbdn, "The Fair Persian." llarlii, named after a hot wind supposed to ripen it. Brim, (origin of name disputed). Dubaini, named after the oasis of Dubai, near Baghdad. Fursi, "The Persian." Guntdr, properly Qintdr, "The Hundredweight." Ealdvn, "The Sweet." Malawi Makkdwi, "The Sweet Date of Mecca." Hasan (or Hvsain) Effendi, (a man's name). llaxthci, from Ilasa. Ibrdhimi, "Abraham's Date." Ehadhrdwi, "The Verdant." Khitstdmi, "The Date of the Grandees." * Fairchild, David. Persian Gulf Dates and their Introduction to America. Bui. No. 54., Bureau of Plant Industry, Washington, I). C, 1903. I Date Growing in the Old and New Worlds, by Paul B. Popenoe. West India Gardens, Altadena, Cal., 1913. Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany 463 Maktum, originally Makdum, "The Bitten." Maktum Ahmar, "Red", a variety of the preceding. Shukkar, "Sugar." Sukkari, ' ' Sugary. ' ' Sukkar Nabat, "Refined Sugar." Sultdni, "The Sultan's Date." Tabirzdl, originally Tdbirzdd, "Sugar Candy." Zdhidi, "Nobility." The varieties in the foregoing list are all to be found now in the United Statrs. The following list comprises all the other varieties of which I could learn in Babylonia; they are not growing in the United States, unless so described, but many of them should be given a thorough trial as soon as possible. Other Babylonian Varieties 'Abadl't, "The Date of Abdullah" (a. man's name), a large, soft date, light reddish-brown in color, grown principally in the oasis of Baqubah, near Baghdad. Usually eaten fresh, but keeps well if packed tightly. Ripens about the middle of September. Quality good. Yield fairly heavy. * 'Amount a! Qadki, "The Kadi's Turban," a large, yellow, dry date, very thick in proportion to its length ; ripens late in season and is of mediocre quality. Mostly eaten fresh, but not a common date. Seed large. It is occasionally picked when still soft and packed in skins. Amir Hajj, "Leader of the Pilgrimage," a date practically confined to the oasis of Mandali on the Persian frontier. It is ranked among the best dates of Babylonia, partly because of its quality and partly because of its attractive appearance and its scarcity. Nowadays it seems to be exported only in the form of presents. The few trees are in the gardens of wealthy men who refuse to sell offshoots from them, consequently the variety is not disseminated. The palm is tall and graceful, but very delicate, requiring a great deal of cultivation and water; a shy bearer. It matures its fruit in midseason. Many seeds of this variety have been planted in California, all efforts to secure offshoots having failed. In form, the date is broadly oblong-oval to oblong-ovate, flattened at base, widest at or near center: apex rounded to broadly pointed, base flat- tened. Size medium large, one and one-quarter to one and three-eighths inches long, seven-eighths to one inch wide. Surface dry or nearly so, roughly undulating, slightly glossy where the thick bluish-gray bloom has been rubbed off; deep, rich orange brown in color, unusually translucent. Skin firm but rather thin, not easily broken, though tender; loosely folded, the folds rather prominent but only occasionally separating from the flesh: no blisters. Flesh three-eighths inch thick, of caramel consistency, translucent, light golden brown in color; fibrous lining of seed cavity yellowish cream colored, fibre tender 464 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany and unnoticeable in the mouth. Seed rather small, three-quarters inch long by one-fourth to three-eighths inch wide, oblong to oblong-obovate, lilunt at base, slightly tapering at apex; smooth; deep, dull brown in color; ventral channel almosl or entirely closed ; germ pure at or near center. Flavor very rich and pleasant, nut so sweet as to he chiving nor so strong as to be objectionable. Although the date somewhat resembles Maktum in appearance, the flavor is entirely different. 'Anih N/7,/, (Turkish), "The Arab's Phallus," a variety mentioned by G. Ghanimeh in an article on the Palms of 'Iraq in Al Machriq, No. 11, p. 480, Payrut, June 1, 1907. I could not find this variety. Asliarasi Aswdd, ("black"), a rare sub-variety of Asharasi at Baghdad. Form broadly obovate, sometimes almost spherical; base broad and flattened, apex numded to very broadly pointed. Of very solid consistency, but not hard. Size medium large, length one and one-fourth to one and one-half inches, breadth one to one and one-eighth inches. Surface dry, rough, slightly glossy, deep purplish maroon in color, bloom unnoticeable. Skin rather dry, moderately thick but not tough, coarsely wrinkled indiscriminately, and toward apex separating from flesh in numerous folds and blisters. Flesh solid, gummy, one-fourth inch thick, translucent light brown under skin one-third of distance to seed, the rest light straw color. Slightly fibrous around seed cavity. Seed broadly oblong, lilunt at base, rounded at apex, plump, eleven- sixteenths inch long, five-sixteenths broad, smooth, cinnamon brown in color, ventral channel open, rather shallow, germ pore slightly nearer apex. Flavor rich and nutty, quite similar to that of Asliarasi. Ashqar, "Sorrel," referring to its color. This is the Busreh name; at Baghdad the word is made feminine instead of masculine: Shaqra. A long slender date of rather above average size, sorrel colored, ripening in Septem- ber. Considered good when fresh, but does not keep well. Bears heavily. Not common in either district. 'Ashuri, a name which indicates that the date ripens in the first ten days of the month. — hut I do not know which month. It is a very rare Baghdad soft date, resembling Khustawi but a little larger. Ripens in midseason; yield good; the date is noticeable for its tender skin. 'Ashshdq, "The Preferable," I take to be the true form of the date vulgarly called "Asshag" at Busreh. It is a mediocre variety ripening in October. Long and slender, almost black; keeps well but is not good as rutab (fresh dates). Pears heavily. Not common. Awashah, (a woman's name), originated in a garden owned by a woman of that name at Mu'adhdham. near Baghdad, and is confined to that neigh- borhood. Yellowish brown in color, long and of medium thickness; midseason. Opinions differ as to its value, some declaring it worthless while others represent it as ;i delicious fruit with notably tender skin. Aweriha (?), variety reported from Hilleh, of which I could get no description. Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany 465 Azraq, "Brilliant," a good soft date principally grown at Mandali and Badra. Form oblong-ovate, rounded at base, broadly pointed at apex. Size medium, length one and one-fourth to one and one-half inches, breadth at widest point, at or near center of fruit, five-eighths to three-fourths inch. Surface rather rough, light brown in color, glossy, bloom unnoticeable. Skin firm but thin, rather tough, loosely wrinkled indiscriminately, occasionally blistered, but otherwise adheres closely. Flesh very firm and of caramel consistency, good texture, three-sixteenths inch thick, translucent, light red- dish brown in color, slightly fibrous near seed. Seed oblong, slightly pointed at both ends, three-fourths to seven-eighths inch long, five-sixteenths inch broad, smooth, grayish brown in color, ventral channel open but narrow. Flavor sweet but the taste of syrup rather more prominent than that of dates. Banafshah* "Violet Blossoms," a dry date of attractive appearance but ordinary quality, grown around Baghdad but more at Mandali. Form oblong, slightly swollen toward the apical end, the base bluntly flattened, the apex rounded or very broadly pointed. Size medium large, one and one-fourth to one and one-half inches long, five-eighths to three-fourths inch wide. Surface smooth or coarsely wrinkled longitudinally, dry, hard, dull purplish maroon in color with slight bluish bloom. Skin thin, dry, moderately tough, adhering closely except for an occasional fold, usually somewhat wrinkled toward apex and smooth near base. Flesh dry, solid, mealy, one-eighth inch thick, dull white in color, sometimes slightly soft near apex. No fibre. Seed very large, oblong, blunt at base and rounded at apex, one inch long, five-sixteenths inch broad, smooth, fawn colored, ventral channel open, deep, germ pore slightly nearer apex. Flavor sweet but lacking in character. Baqlah, "The Pot Herb Date" (?), a large, yellowish brown date with small seed, which ripens about the middle of September and is known as a heavy bearer. Considered best when fresh, but, also, packs well. It is rare, if known at all, in Baghdad, and seems to have originated somewhere on the Persian frontier. Those who have eaten it call it delicious. I ordered some offshoots of this variety from Badra and received four specimens labeled "Daklieh," so I do not know whether 1 introduced it to California or not. Sayyid Salman Abatshi who is considered an authority on dates at Baghdad, declares it is the best variety in Babylonia. Badami, "Almond-like" (Persian), a rare Baghdad soft date which is highly esteemed. Medium large, light brown in color; ripens early in Sep- tember. Eaten as rutab (fresh dates) or packed in skins or boxes. Badrdlii, from the oasis of Badra, although those of Mandali are con- sidered better. The palm nourishes in a sandy soil and is rarely found at Baghdad, in fact, I was unable to secure any offshoots of it. The date is much liked by the Baghdadis, but the whole supply is shipped in. The palm * This is the Persian word, but is usually heard at Baghdad, as are many other Persian words, because of the large Persian population there. The classical Aral) form Banafsaj is, also, heard; it is merely a corruption of the Persian; by the time the word reaches Algeria it has degenerated to Balasfanj. 466 Pomona College Journal of Economic Botany is easy to cultivate, tint hears moderately; it has been a decided success in California. Season, late September. Form broadly oblong, tending to oblong-oval and oblong-obovate, broadest between center and apex. Base slightly flattened, apex broadly pointed. Size medium to medium large, one and one-fourth to one and three-fourths inches long, seven-eighths to one and one-eighth inches wide. Surface hard and dry, smooth to roughly undulating, rarely wrinkled; brownish straw colored, some- times darker toward apex and lighter toward base. Skin hard, dry and brittle, adhering closely to flesh and rarely wrinkled or folded. Flesh three-eighths inch thick, light straw colored, very hard and solid, not mealy, free from fibre. Seed oblong-elliptieal, slightly tapering at base and pointed at apex, three- fourths inch long, five-sixteenths inch wide, fairly smooth, deep brown in color, ventral channel open, narrow; germ pore slightly nearer apex. Flavor remarkably sweet and delicate, almost honey-like, with very little of the nutty flavor that characterizes Asharasi. Bayt ill Sdbah, "Breakfast Food," a scarce Busreh variety of slight value. The fruit is large, short and thick, light brown in color, and ripens about October first. Principally eaten as rutab; the dried date keeps fairly well but is inferior. Heavy bearer. Balabdn, perhaps "The Date of Ban," a region in Arabia always famed for its dates. A small, short, brown, soft date which seems to be confined to one garden at Baghdad and is said by its possessor to ripen almost a month before any other. The palm is of rank growth, resembling a male in appear- ance, and bears well. The dates are eaten fresh, packed in skins, or cured to a caramel consistency. Burnt, "The Sweetmeat Jar"* (Persian). An Oman variety, very rare at Baghdad. [ met men who had heard of it there but never one who had actually seen it. Bfi Saba'a