Snd COPY, 1898, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ('hap./l£S3Coi)vright No. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. OCT 17 1698 THE AUTHOR AND WIFE. •■.A % • -4. Scenes of earlier Days in Crossing the Plains to Oregon, am experiences Of (UesternCife C by C. f). Crawford. ^ ) ^'— - — m$. J. T. STUDDERT, BOOK AND JOB PRINTER, PETALUMA, CAL. {( OCT 17 1898 ^'rv wuntcjHtCUvtD* ') ® 39557 PREFACE. HOSE who did not cross the plains, either to Ore- gon or California, in an early day have but little knowledge of the hardships endured by the wa}', or after their arrival at their future homes. I have frequently conversed with those who went to Oregon from 1843 to 1845 and '46 and after their arrival had to live on acorns for six weeks without meat. There were no cattle at the time in the country fit for beef, and game was very scarce, and even if it had been plenty hunting it on an acorn breakfast would have been very hard work Even after our arrival in Orf'gon at a later date, 1851, provisions were ver}' scarce. The winter of 1852-53 for more than a month there was no flour to be had and no meat and we paid $8.50 for fifty pounds of very poor shorts and glad to get it at that j)rice. In the spring a cargo of Chile flour came in and when we bought it we had to sieve out the long woolly worms and eat it or starve. In talking with friends about the scenes of earlier days and experiences of western life I have been frequently asked why do you not write them out and have them published in book form. My reply has been it always looked egotistical for a man to publish his own autobiography The reply was this is not your autobio- graphy, but actual history that helps to tell about the settlement of the great west, a subject in which old and young are, or should be, deeply interested. Setting all objections aside I submit in the following pages an ac- count of our trip across the plains together with a few u v^ri>^ /^ cO^ of our varied experiences of western life in the hope that it will do at least a small amount of good in better- ing- the great state in which we live. The scenes related in this book are true for I was an eye witness to most of them. Many of them were of a nature to stir up the soul with intense excitement. I shall be glad to know that the young people who read these truthful narratives have been benefitted by them. Those who love truth more than fiction will not object to these sketcne.s. C. H. CH.\WFORI), Pei'aluma, Cal., l^OS. CONTENTS. Company organized and Captain elected - 8 Preparing to fiyht - - - . 5 Tattle won • - - - _ (j Cooking done with buffalo chips . - 9 A stormy night - - - . 10 Indians ready for war - - - 13 First jack rabbit - - - 14 First buffalo - - - 15 Chimney Rock . - _ 17 Huins of ancient building - - 18 Viewing Devil's Canyon - - 19 A large hill of lead - - - 22 Horses badly frightened - - 23 How Bear river bottom looked - - 25 Soap creek and a large sti'eam of water - 2<) Soda Springs - - - - 27 Three horses stolen - - - 30 Nez Perce chief and his family - - 31 Use of the rocky part of the world - - 32 A cowardly guard, and a horse stolen - 34 A man shot and dangerously wounded - 38 An Indian killed - - - - 46 A train all killed but two boys - . - 48 A horse stolen but quickly recovered - - 50 Violating a contract and the result - - 51 Going over the Cascade mountains - - 57 Devil's backbone and Laurel hill - - 59 Glad to be in the Willamette valley - (JS The hungry fed . _ _ . (54 The man with two wives - - - 66 Entering politics - - - - 69 Leaving politics and going preaching - 70 An orphan boy badly used - - 72 Leaving Oregon - - - 73 Building a church in Stockton - - 76 Going into a saloon and inviting them to church - 78 A camp meeting" near Stockton - - - 81 Result of sinf>ing songs in a barroom - - 8:5 Appointed college agent - - . - |)() Infidel lawyer converted - - - - 94 Starting for Powder river mines - - 95 A Parson caught in his own tiaj) - - - 9(5 The frightened Irishman _ . . (»j) Men alarmed and preparing to fight - - 101 A man greatly alarmed ... lo-j Three men poisoned . . - . . 105 Parson asked to drink - - - - - 110 A man instantly killed - - - - - 11-1 Attending politicial meetings - - - - Ho Answering a fool according to his folly - - 119 Two men murdered - . _ _ . \'22 Mob violence - - - - - - - 125 History of Mr. Miller - - - - 12G Leaving- the mines - - - - - ll{7 Water spout - - - - 189 A beautiful scene near Petaluma - - 141 Two men recoTu-iled - - - 145 A remarkable conversion . - - 147 The story of a pioneer - - - 14it Conditions of help - - - 151 Swearing by his father - - - 158 The agent thrashed . . . 155 Invited to have a dram - - - 1 5s Camping in the wild woods of Mendocino county KJl Commencing to work at Tomales - - Ki'l Answering a question - - - 1B5 Commencing' to work at Point Arena - KKJ A man shot at Point Arena - - - 170 Answering Rev. Mr. Tubs - - - - 177 Making- an infidel mad - - 181 A missionary trip to the Sierra Nevadas - 182 How one parson helped another - - - 1S8 Conclusion . . . . iy() Scenes of Early Days THE START MADE. CHAPTER 1. Our minds are so formed that we love to linger around the scenes of the past and think of what transpired in years gone by. How often have we been charmed with the company of the aged ones as they related to us the things that transpired when they were young. The struggle th«y had, the difficulties they overcame and their final triumph at the last when they proved conc^uerors. Many a youth in our land has felt a noble thrill in his soul when grandma or grandpa has talked about frontier hfe in the wilderness, and told their experiences with bears, wolves and wild Indians. Not only do old 2 SCENKS OF EARLIER DAYS. ])eoi:)le have their attractions, but also old buildings, that have long been erected and have stood the storms of many y^iii'S- I have visited Fort Ross in the western portion of So- noma county, California, and on the border of the Pacific ocean, and looked with deep interest on the walls now tumbling- into ruins and thought of the struggles through wliicih the Russians must have passed when they were built, surrounded as they were wnth wild beasts and wilder savages. Their struggles were but little if any greater than those who settled our western frontier, going forth with their loaded muskets in one hand and the torch of liberty in the other. Those who are now being whirled across the continent with the on- ward rush of the railroad coach, often wonder how the emigrants of earlier days ever made their way to the Pacific coast, in the midst of savages, mosquitoes, black onats and alkali dust I never felt any alarm about our western travel until I made the trip some years after the railroad Avas completed, and saw the old emigrant road as it came in sight occasionally. Then it was the past loomed up and I thought it was a very risky business to take a family (for their were four of us) and start out on a western trip of more than two thousand miles, and depend on four horses and a wagon to bring us to our "desired heaven," with nothing lor feed for our animals save the grass we migt find by the way. Then add to this that we had to travel outside of civilization on a road not improved, and cross swollen streams as best we could, and not see a house from the Missouri river to Oregon, save at the forts, and you will not wonder that SCENES OF EAKLIEU DAYS. 3 it maentleman who was traveling" with us remarked: ''Westward the star of empire wends its way." We crossed the Mississ- ippi at the town (now the city of Burlington) and made our way across Iowa, the western portion then being- very thinly settled. We halted for several days at a place now known as Council Bluffs, then Council Bluff's was two or three miles farther up the Missouri river. The reason we tarried here was to let the" grass grow, so that it would have more strength for our horses. The emigrants Kept on coming until thousands were en- camped on the borders of the river. As w^e were travel- ing with horses, without any cattle, we were desirous of forming a good company in numbers so as to pass in safety through the Pawnee country, as they were said to be somewhat troublesome. By hunting among the vir- ious camps of emigrants we soon found enough with horses to make a company of one hundred and tw^enty men, well armed, besides women and children. A day was set when we were to meet and organize and deter- mine when we were to cross the muddy Missouri. The day arrived, and an organizatioji was affected by the election of a Mr. Hadley as our captain, as he had crossed the plains in 1849 in search of California gold. SChNES OP EARLIER DATS, CHAPTER II. The (I IV selected for the forward journey was a dehghtful one and the Gth day of May found uh, with- out a siiio;le aceident, on the west side of the g"reat rivei' where the beautiful city of Omaha now stands Then tiiere were no signs of civih'zation. Tiot even a log- cabin had been reared. ( )ut west of this a few miles there were the remnants of a few cabins to he seen, where some. Mormons on th< ii way to Salt Lake had wintered a few years before. We found our first campings place on the P'lk Horn and after we had found our camp a few Indians came to us. They were hard-featured human beings and looked wicked enough for any mischief. They Avere clad in buffalo robes and by moving them up and down they made a horrid rattling noise, which greatlv frightened our teams and they started to run, for prior to this they had been unhitched and were eating- grass. Those who saw this movement on the part of the I ndians and the stampede of the horses, succeeded in turning all back except three of mine and they ran at full speed out on to the plains, home of those who were fortunate enough to keep their horses from run- ning, mounted them and after a chase of several miles all were brought back safely. The Indians were notified that if they scared the horses again they would be pun- ished severely for it. They remained very ([uiet during the night, camping not far from us. The next morning we journeyed on until we found a stream called Loup Fork which was so greatly swollen that the ferryman told us we would have to wait several days before crossing. We paid him $5 so as to secure SCENES OF EAKLIER DAYS. O our regular time of crossing. We moved up the river M here there was better grass, and the ferryman prom- ised he would let us know when it was safe to cross. One day while waitinj^- for the waters to fall we saw another train drive up and eonimence crossing. We harnessed oiir teams as quickly as possible, and moved down to the ferry and demanded our time as promised. The ferryman said, "gviitlemen, you must settle your own troubles, as the last train to arrive has paid me ten dollars to cross it first." A man at least six feet tall stepped forth from the last train and said "he would fight any man in our train, and let that decide the niiitter." An Englishman in our conipany of small statue, but who proved to be a scientific boxer, >aid 'sir, 1 am your man." The captain said, "form a ring, i:entle- men and let them fight." The ring was soon formed, while the women and children remained in the wagons as witnesses of the scene, but by no ineans as disinter- ested spectators, for all were anxious to push toward as soon as possible. CHAPTEll III. The two combatants having placed themselves in the proper position, the captain of each company called to his man "are you ready?" They both declared they were, the word was given and the tall man made for the Englishman, swinging both of his arms wildly in the air. In the meantime the Englishman scarcely moved from his position, but as his man came up he watched 6 SCENES OF EARLIKK DAYS. his opportunity and placed a blow on his chest which knocked him down, without himself receiving a scratcii. The Englishman stood back and waited for his man to get up. After awhile he rolled his eyes up as if plead- ing for help, at the same time saying he was not whi])ped yet. "Get up then," said the GiiglisUman, '"I will give you all you want." With the assistance of some of his comrades he got up and steadied himself for a shoit time, and then declared he could and would whip his antagonist.. He made at him as before, swinging his arms in all directions. The Englishman stood still in order to receive his blows, and when he came near enough he landed aleft-hand blow just below^ the ear, and he fell as suddenly as if stabbed to the heart. He never struck the Englishman a single lick, and he was struck only twice, but they were blows that counted. W hen he fell the second time quite a numl')er thought he Avas killed, but after awhile he showed some signs of life, and his comrades helped him up and carried him to his wagon. We learned afterward that he kept his bed for three weeks before he was able to move about at his own will. The only injury the Englishman sustained was a badly sprained thumb on the left hand, caused by the last blow he struck. After the fight was over, the tall man's captain said: "Gentlemen you have won it fairly, it is your right to cross the Loup Fork first." We soon shoved a wagon on the boat, and after a few hours we all landed safely on the w^est side. I suppose this fight was on the same principle, only in a small degree, that causes nations to go to war with each other. Trouble arises and one is SCENES OF EAKLIEK DAYS. 7 offended and seeks revenge. The spirit of retaliation is very strongly marked in some individuals as well as m some nations. All hands, men, women and children were very much interested in this tight, for all were anxious to he moving westward. 'i his was a war on a small scale, while it lasted. Jt was a very decisive battle, and one that accomplished its work and left the ferry free to us. Su('h scenes these days 1 think are frowned on by the better class of society, but then it was thought to be about light, as t hurch n:embers, class leaders and a parson helped to form the ring, and as good as said: "Go in boys and do youi best, to the victor belongs the spoils." Opinions on many subjects are undergoing a« great changes these days, as the country has through which we were then jjassing. Now fine cities, towns and farms dot the road vve weie then traveling, and the fiery steed goes puffing along his iron track, and the people are rejoicing in plenty, with no fear of being molested by the Indian tribes who once inhabited it, and roamed over its hills and valleys, at their own will and pleasure. I am glad that the great principles of peace are taking a firmer hold on the human heart as well as on nations who before have been blood thirsty. When Nellie Bly Avas in Mexico, a Spanish gentleman said to her: "Your humane societies would prevent bull fights in the States. Your people would cry out against them. Yet they have strong men trying to pound one another to death, and the people clamor for admission to see the law kill men and w^omen, while in health and in youth, because of some deed done in the fiesh. Yes, thev wit- ^ SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. ness and allow such inliuiiian treatment to a fellow- mortal, and turn amund and affect holy horror at nis for taking out of the world .i few old horses and furaislnnj;- beef to the poor " A point, I think, very well taken by the Spanish gentleman. Forty-seven years ag-o and railroads were not very plentiful, much less one to traverse the western wilds, and cross hills and tall ranges of mountains, and find its way puffing and snorting to the great PaciHe. I re- member very well when plows had wooden mold boards, and harvesting was done with reap hooks, and then with cradles. With the vast and far reaching improvements now in use, we must naturally expect ideas to change, and men become more manly by leaving off their child- ish notions. But I am wandaring from my theme and must return. We traveled up the north side of Piatt river, and for quite a distance oui- route seemed quite level. There was a new difficulty which was soon encountered by us, for we now had a stretch of three hundred miles without and wood with which to make fires and do our cooking-. CHAPTER IV. The (piestion of how the cooking was to be done was to all of us a very important one, but it was very soon settled by our captain telling us that we had to use buffalo chips, and that we must camp where they were the most plentiful. It was amusing to see the different SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 9 expressions of counteniuice when this aiinouncenient was made I adies who liad been reared in luxurv and were generally noted for their good natnre and mild manners, fairly stamped the earth and almost gritted their teeth together, declaring they never could and never would cook with it, that they would rather retrace their steps and live on the east side of the Missouri river, or then eat their vituala raw and use cold water for coffee. But traveling soon produces strong- appe- tites, and hunger with its gnawings isnot easily satisfied with raw food, and it was only a short time until, when the train halted for either noon or night, men, women and children made haste to the field of chips and gathered them for fuel, and even the ladies who had said so much, were as eager to procure the driest as any of the rest. The women soon learned to cook with them, and all hands became used to such fuel; really the vit- uals seemed to taste just as good as if cooked with wood. It is an excellent thing we are so formed that we can ?>dapt ourselves to the surrounding circumstances. If this was not tiue there would be but few who would ever see the western wilds, or the immense west as we used to call it. From start to finish, western travel a half century ago was a kind of rough and tumble life, with difficulties in abundance, but we soon learned to sleep in tents, wagons or on the ground, and to eat our gruel cooked with buffalo manure. And here I will say lest I forget it further on, that ladies, and even those who never knew what hardships were at home, can en- dure more of them in proportion to, their strength than men. When men become discouraged and are ready to KJ SCKNES OF EAKIJEK DAYS. faint by tlic wmv, their con rage comes to the rescue and nrgen the men forward. Thtie i» some very beautiful country bordering on tlie Pliitt ! river, with a large extent of good 'evel laiul, and as we traveled up this beautiful valley, in the distance we could see vast heids of bufi'alo feed- ing, which at times would become alaimed at our covered wagons and scampei- oft' out of our sight to the lolling hills. There are some countries beautiful to look upon when the sun shines biightly% and no angry clouds are to be seen. So it proved with the Platte, for I remember one day, the forenoon had been all that heart could wish, wjien suddenly a cloud angiy in its contour came up and the hail commenced to fall. 1 had to get out of the wagon with its (covered shelter and hold :uy leaders by the bits to keep them from running away. Mail stones fell larger than quails eg<^^, by the thousand and pelted my hands, until black and blue for days. How that portion of our country now is, since it has been crossed and recrossed with railroads and towais and cities have been built, 1 do not know; l)ut then it was i)y fiir the worst country 1 ever have been in for storms. 1 have passed through some very hard storms in Illinois, l)ut none that would do to compare with those along the F»latte. One I remember very vividly. TIk- day had been very warm and at times quite sultry. We camped for rhe nivinter. When we started west it looked like it SCE^IES OF EARLIER DAYS. lit hinl hardly been touched. I told niy father that J "thought we had meat enough to last us to ' 'regon and he came to the same coiiclusit)ij . There was not a sinole o pound of that })ig" left when we reached Clouncil Bluffs. There we bought more and that was all gone t)efore we reached our destination. If any one wants to iuiprove their health and strength let them travel witli wagons and horses and camp out in the open air. There was one thing that was cheering after we passed into the Black Hills and that was we could leave off cooking with buffalo chips and have plenty of wood. We also found that we were getting into a higher lati- tude and at times we wanted a better tire than could be made from chips. After passing through these hills we found a large extent of level country again. And as we pres.sed on, day after day, we eventually came to a stream called Sweetwater and there was a terril)le canyon on it known as Devil's Canyon. it was about one and one-half miles in length with solid walls of rock on either side reaching u^) hnndieds of feet. Some of our comically who had been to see Chimney Rock con- cluded, that as this curiosity was near at hand, they would survey its mysteries and see if they were not more beautiful than the Chimney. Not long after they entered it their feet began to slip on the rocks, worn smooth by the waters. As the waters were rolling and tumbling in terrific majesty and the spray flying in all directions and wetting them, and the roar of the canyon was like mighty thunders, and as they were slijiijing and falling they wished they had never entered the doleful gorge. However, after a time It stood and looked at us. — page 14. SCENKS OF EARLIKR DAYS. 21 tliey got out alive but bruised and battered, and con- eluded they did not want anything more to do with places named for the devil, that he himself was a veiy tough customer and if they were much with him they might become like him. In that same region we found a vast field of ice that the summer suns never melt. By digging down from a foot to two feet through the soil it is found in abund- ance but is said to be poisonous for drinking purposes. The covering to this ice is clothed with a thick carpet of buffalo grass, and when one looks at it they wonder how it is possible for vegetation to grow so near where ice remains all the time, but it does. How far down this ice extends I have no means of knowing as we found no bottom to it. There is still another curiosity in this region of country. It is that of an immense rock rearing its head up in a seemingly level plain called Indepedence. The name is said to have been given to it by some emi- grants who camped near it on the Fourth of July years before this and celebrated the birthday of our country. The rock is more than a mile in circumference and at least a fourth of a mile in heigth. Unlike Chimney Rock time had not worn its sides away. It was not so smooth, however, but that its ascent could be easily made. And as one climbed its sides he could read hun- dreds of names, and well up into the thousands, for wherever there was room there was a name. Here I saw the names of many whom I had known in my younger days and wondered if they yet lived. This 'I'l SCElfES OP EAKLIEK DAYS. monumental Kt(Mie made us for the ti'ue forget the- weariness of our journey. A friend of mine who crossed the phiins in ISoi, and' whom I always regarded as a trathfiil nia;i, told me tliat not far from Independence Kock he went on a hunt one da} and in his rambles he found quite a large hdl that attracted his notice on account of its {peculiar ap})ear- ance. He approached it and spent some time in its ex- amination and finally with his hati^het that he carried in. his belt \ie chipped off a piace of it and found it to be almost pure lead, and that when lie arrived at camp and melted it he saw that it made good bullets, except that it was a little too hard. He brought a piece of it into Oregon and experts pronounced it lead with a small mixture of silver. He never retunied to work it and move its richness. CHAPTJ-:ii VIL The first night after we left liid.ependenee Rock we found the grass very scarce near the road and my friend Joe proposed to me that if 1 would go \fith him he would take the horses to better feed. We left the tiain, cajuped near a small strean) and with our rifles and blankets we took the horses alx>ut three miles, where finding an excellent lot of grass we proceeded to picket them securely not knowing what might happen during the night. We were in a valley shaped like a horse shoe with low hills on three sides of it. It was a beautiful spot and SCENES OF EARLIEK DAYS. '2'-) oovered witli Inxuiiant grass. When night eauie we rolled ourselves m our blankets and lay down to sleej), with the heavens above for our tent. We were up so high on the Itoeky .Mountains that we did not anticipate much danger from the red men and then we had not kindled a tire that woiild be a signal that some emigrants were campled there. We were just getting into a quiet slumber and, of course, not suspecting any danger near, when all of a sudden a mule (which by the way is the best guard one can have on huch a journey) raised a terrible snort and instantly ever}' animal was pawing and snorting too, and trying to break loose from their fastenings. We thought what has happened now to frighten our animals like this and as soon as possible we were up with our guns in hand and among the animals to see if we could find the cause of their fright. As we came to them we spoke in gentle tones trying to quiet them. We searched in vain for the cause of their fright but could find none, and finally retired again for the night. The next morning after daylight we started for our camp with the horses and found that about 15U yards from us a very large grizzly bear had passed during the night. We were glad the wind blew from him to us and not from us to him for had it been otherwise he would have scented us and have had a royal feast either of human or horse fiesh. The bear must have thought the snort of the horses was thunder at his heels and that he had better be getting away from it as fast as he could, for just opposite where we were at night his bearship showed that he shutfied off with accelerated speed. "24 SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. As one climbs up the liocky Mountains he scarcely realizes that he is goiny up hill the ascent is so oradual. When we at last reached the summit I wondered why they were called Kock}' Mountains lor there were no rocks in sight, but one vast unbroken plain with here ai.d there a very small amount of timber. When we came to what was known as the Pacific springs and saw the water tlowmg westward we knew we had came to the place "where gravitation shifting turns the other way." And this we all said is the sumaiit towards which we have all been climbing for weeks and if our decent proves as fortunate as our ascent we will yet land on the Pacific slope all safe and sound for we have had no sickness as yet in all our travels. From the summit the waters flowed both east and west; pointing toward the rising sun from whence we came and to the setting sun towards wdiich we were journeying. I took mj^ rifle and went out for a little hunt, as much as anything else, I suppose, that I might have it to say in after years that I hunted one day on the summit of the Rocky Mountains or the back bone of our continent. The wind was blowing quite hard and it was ver}^ cold so that I did not remain long. In my rambles I did not find either deer, antelope, or rabbit, but I did find a home-made butcher knife with its buck-horn handle, a relic that I prized very highly as it came from the summit. But someone else in the train prized it highly too and appropriated it without leave to his own use, or then 1 left it by mistake near some of our lonely camp fires. It was about noon when w^e passed over the summit SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 25 and when we went into camp that night it wus cold and frosty although about the 'iOlh of -June. Beyond this we came to the forks of the road, one called Sublet's cut-off and the other the old emigrant r. ad past Fort Ih-idger. The cut-off was said to be a little shorter road than the other but a mu(;h rougher one. Here the train separated and we were one among the number who de- cided to go the Bridger road. The night we camped near the fort the ice formed at least an inch thick al- though it was the 1st of July. After leaving Bridger we passed over a very high ridge and then gradually decended into the Tear river country. When we came near enough to the bottom land to see it fully a sight greeted iis that was cheering to both man and beast and seemed to put new life into both. As far as the ey- could reach, for the valley was both wide and long, it was covered with red top from two to four feet high and all our horses had to do as we moved along was to pluck it on either side of the road. Then the only sign of civilization was Fort Bridger a place settled many years before by a man by the name of Bridger from the state of Kentucky. Now there is said to be beautiful homes and towns all through that country, so that it would be difficult for one of the old emigrants to pass that way and recognize the road over which he then traveled or any of the hills he then passed. One day when traveling along the borders of this beautiful landscape and through the vast sea of red top we found a creek called Soap creek, which I think was rightly named, for it smelled just like the boiling soft 2() SCENES OF EARLIER DA VS. soap that niv iiiother used to make me stir wlien I was a small boy, the scent of which I was not found of, and which still lingers with me when L think of those days. CHAPTER VI Li. We knew nothing abont the depth of this creek (if snch it could be called) for where it seemed like water ought to have been was onh' this soft soapy substance and very miry. When we probed it with sticks we found it was about eighteen inches in depth. This encouraged us and we drove in and across without any serious trouble, only that which we borrowed. We were afraid, as the horses' legs weie covered with the soap, that it might be strong enough to eat the hair off and leave them sore, for there was no water in sight with which to cleanse them and our wagons. Nature generall}- provides for emergencies, especially if it creates them, and it was not long until one of the most beautiful sights of our entire journey greeted us. We were passing near a great wall of black rock on our right hand that Avas several hundred feet in height, when to our astonishment a great river came gushing- out from beneath it more than a hundred feet wide and from six inches to three feet in depth Its waters were like ice water and of the very best quality', running on a l)ed of small gravel and went rushing on towards Bear river. Before we reached the opposite shore we had both our wagons and horses cleansed from the tilth of Soap creek I looked on that stream without a name with a great SCENES OF EAULllLU DAYS. 27 deal of interest and wondered where such a large body of water came from and how its channel was formed. The Wind River mountains clad in snow were in full view and no doubt this stream had its origin there and that its channel was formed by some great uphe;ival of nature. It was there, and there to stay untd some of nature's convulsions should close it. Right glad we were that it did not occur while w^e were there for we might have been precipiated through the center of the earth with Jules Verne, a trip we had no longing for as we w^ere bound for Oregon so that we uii^ht "add fifteen years to our lives." Below this a few miles Bear river makes a very sudden bend like an elbow and goes rushing off towards the Great Salt Lake Near where this bend occurs there is a curiousity known as Soda Springs. There are a num- ber of them and some of them excellent soda water. There is one which deserves special mention called Steamboat Springs. There are times when it seems to l)e resting and then it is as quiet as a seeping babe, when all of a sudden it breaks forth puffing and blowing like a steamboat and sending its soda sprays far into the air. It was sound asleep when we were there and as 1 gazed down into its mysterious depths I could but wish it would wake up and make us emigrants retreat in a hurry from its commotions. The country all around these springs bear unmistaka- ble signs of some mighty shakings and that volcanic fires were not very far away even then. A gentleman with whom I conversed afterwards told me that a number of them w-ent out on a hunt some ten or twelve miles nortii SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 29 of these si)iiiigs and in their ramblings they came to a depressed valley of small size and in various jjlaces over it smoke was coming out of the ground, showing there was fire beneath. The country around the springs and between there and Fort Hall was much better and richer in appearance than thousands of acres over which we had passed beyond Fort Bridger, or even the high pla- teau on which the fort stands. It was near these springs that we met all of our old company who had gone the Sublet route, except the old gentleman and his family with whom we had started from Illinois. They got in a hurry and pressed on with- out any companions save their own and there were seven men and four women of them. When they had passed Fort Hall and came to a small body of timber some Indians made an attempt to run in ahead of them, and had it not been for the bravery of one women, who had learned to handle a lifle, the Indians would have succeeded. But she with her bravery kept them at a distance until open -round was found, when the Indians retreated to the great joy of the company. The night after we left the Springs we camped near the foot of a mountain and close to our road there was a large flat rock and near the middle of it a fine soda spring with excellent drinking water came bubbling up. This was the night of the Fourth of July, a day that should never be forgotten by any lover of his country, it matters not in what portion of the world he may be. Here we had a wilderness celebration of the day, as we had quite a large company of our own and besides our own, here I 30 SCENES OF EARLIER DArS, found mj old Illiiims friend who was intending to "add tifteen years to his life" We asked hini for a short speech, which he gave in good style, and then we gave three cheers for onr country, fired our guns, placed our guards in position and retired for the night. The next niaht we camped near Fort Hall,, which at the time was- only occupied by some French traders. Uncle Sam's, boys were )iot there, not eren cme that we saw, and yet the fort was among the Sohones or Snake Indians, one of the worst tribes that ever lived on the American con- tinent for low cunning, m^aness and treachery, which many emigrants found to their ^orrow l)oth before and after this. Even that year the emigration expected to have pro- tection from the forts, but they were doomed to disap- pointment, and the savages did as they pleased, roamed where they liked and stole stock from the poor emigrants, yet all the time pretending great friendship. The m9u at the fort warned us to look out for theiv- ing Indians and said they would be likely to visit our camp at night whether we saw anything of them through the day or not. Sure enough the night we tarried in full view of the fort they came we supposed about mid- ni;jht when the guards were being changed and took three horses and made their escape with them while no one knew they were gone until the next morning. We never saw nor heard of then afterwards and knew the}^ had not strayed from us with their own accord. There was a Frenchman at the fort who had traveled the road to western Oregon frequently and he gave us a guide written in English pointing out the best camping and SV;KNE8 oy EAHMtK DAYS. }i\ wateriuj>" plat-es which we t'oniid al'terwavcls to be of ex- <«ellent service. The second day's travel from Fort H
Jez Pierce chief and his family, and he asked for the privile<^e of canipinj^- near us as a protection from the Snake Indians. We very gladly consented, for we thought if it was necessary for one" Indian to be cautious of others that we had better be on the sharp lookout ourselves. '1 his chief had been edu- cated at the Spaulding mission and could talk the Eng- lish language ver}- well, at least well enough to be under stood. The first night he camped with us the Snakes stole five head of horses from him. In the morning he came and asked foi the privilege of his family camping near us while he went out in search of the stolen horses. This chief had been beyond the fort buying emigrant stock and recuiting them so that they could travel to his home at the Mission. He wns gone five days and we all expected that he was murdered but one evening about sun-down he came up with our canjp, bringing all the stolen animals. Duiing- his absence his companions did not show any uneasiness for fear he might never return. He was not hurt himself in the least, wdiile he declared that he killed all three of the Indians who had done the stealing. He traveled with us about two weeks and tlier: left for his home. Before he left he tried very hard to get me and my family to go home with him and teach his people how to read and write and farm and cook, promising us a good home with a good house and or- chard with all the land I wanted and plenty of horses and cattle. We declined his generous offer for we felt 32 SCENES OF EAKLIER DAYS. we had been amon:^ Indian tribes as long; as we carecl about. 1 learned afterward from those who knew him that he woidd have been as punctual to his promises as any white man. Below Fort Mall were the .Vuierican Falls, one. road to Oregon crossed the river near them while the other continued on the south side. We traveled on the south side of Snake river and it was not long until we encount- ered a very hilly and rocky country, making it hard on our wagons and teams and veiy trying on our patience. It was very difficult to travel over them and still more difficult to find plenty of grass for our horses. When we came to Goose creek we found that the road to California went up that stream and here (piite a num- ber of our train left us for the Golden State whom we never naw again and among that number was my friend Joe. There were times when we hful to travel so near the water that it seemed like our wagons would upset and land us all in a watery grave. On the upper side was a rocky wall and we could not dodge sometimes six inches without great danger. Finally we arrived at a small level spot with some grass on it and halted for the noon hour. After the meal, while we were \\aiting for our horses to feed, one gentleman appioached aijother and said: "I do not see what this part of the world was made for. It certainly is of no use whatever." "You are a very foolish man." said the other, "there would be a tremendous hole in the world were it not for this country that you regard as worthless, and you might have to travel several hundred miles to get around it, SCENES OK EARLIER DAYS. 33 but uoA yoii call <^'et over it l)y i^oiug'a lew miles, buinp- a-ta-buiup over the ro(-ks. I perfer it just as it is for luy part without any ruueiuluieiits." One (lay while traveliny on the south side of the river \ve encountered immense swarms of bhick nats and .mosquitoes and it was very difficult to tell which bit the worst. Sometimes we thought it \yas ojie and then we would conclude it must be the other. One thing sure they both bit until our faces were so swollen we could scarcely see. That night we camped on the river bottom and after we had begun to eat, a saudl cloud came float- ing by with a slight spriulde of raiu and a very sudden gust of wind. In a moment after this all passed by, our gnats and mosquitoes were gone to some other country, "seeking whom they might devour" there. But, horrible to relate, we looked at our victuals, for the wind came on so suddenly we had no time to cover them, and they were filled with gray sand until it was difficult to tell what they were. We did not dfire to throw them a%yay for there was no chance to purchase an}- more so we cleansed them as best we could and ate them while the sand gritted between our teeth. The country below this l)egan to show signs of iuj- provemeut, the hills were lower and not so rocky and the grass was more abundant. With the improved country there began to be more fresh Indian signs and by consulting our guide paper it told us to look out for the treacherous Snakes. One night M'e camped on Salmon creek wdiere there was excellent grass. When night began to approach we found, as the creek here formed a horse shoe in shape, that w^e could 34 SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. put oui- wagons across the open part of the shoe and our liorses between them and the creek and station a strong- guard at the ford, wliich was at the extreme bend of the :5hoe and the only place where an Indian could take a horse over the stream, that we would be contparatively safe. After this was all done and darkness came on we heard what wd at tirst thought were wolves, first on one bill top and then on another, but as we had not seen a wolf for several hundred miles we concluded it was the Indians giving the signal that it was a good night to do some stealing from the emigrants. W'e placed out a strong guard, changing it at midnight, pljceing one man at the ford of the creek. The next njorning the best animal in the train was missing and when we came to examine the ford the horse tracks were plainly seen. The men who kept guard at the ford were called and the one Avho stood guard the first part of the night said all was right when he retired, while the one who guarded the after part of the night said he got tired guarding the ford and concluded there was no danger and went and lay down by his own animal. He acknowledged that he saw a horse cross the stream l)ut no one was leading it and it would soon be found. The o^Dposite side was ex- amined and soon a moccasin track was seen and also the place where he had mounted the animal and left for parts unknown. A council was immediately called and some of the men were breathing out threatenings against the man who said he saw the horse cross the ford, for his own acknowledgement showed him a miserable cow- ard. Instead of guarding where he was placed he went awav some distance leaving the ford exposed, which was ■SCENES ■OF EAKLIEK DAYS. 35 the iuiportaiit place to be yuanled. Some wanted to ex- pell him froiij the comically, while others thoug-ht if he i\vas expelled the Indians would soon dis})at('h him. CHAPTIR X. 'J'he question to be settlee siu'cesst'nl in the chase, Chir hopes were tirm and buoyant and seemed to float high above all obstacles. Three of us then were young men not more than twenty-tliree or four years of age and the other two about thirty -five or forty. We followed on nj) this divide until we came to a place where tlie ndian' had halted and cooked his breakfast. After an exami- nation we found the tire was still burning slowly and this led us tff believe we were getting very near him. While we halted at this fire the dusky thief cami in siglit, not more than a half mile from us. This ani- mated greatly the three youngest of us and away we went as fast as O'ur horses could run. 'Tlie two older ones were more cautious and called out to us, "boys, look out and do not venture too far ahead." NW had a hard cliase for a mile or two and at last Indian and horse both disappeared, but the tracks were plainly to be seen. The young man from Maine was tlie leader. Finally we came to another canyon coming into that of Salmon creek at right angles and as we turned up the west canyon, still following the tracks, our leader said, "here are the tracks, boys." Just then there was the report of a ritie and he exclaimed, "1 am killed!" CHAPTER XI. I heard the report of a rifle and for a moment supposed that he had shot at an Indian, but when I looked for the smoke from the gun I saw it was near a large rock and some distance below us. He was still on his horse. SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS, 3T3 liolding- his rifle, when he called out he was shot and killed. We asked him to go towards camp and we would try to secure the Indian. We dismounted and went near the edge of the canyon trjang to <>-et a shot at the Indian who had wounded our fellow traveler. There was no human being in sight anywlure, save an Indian on horseback galloping off towards the moun- tains to the south. We were satisfied he was not the one who had done the mischief, for there was not time enough since the report of the rifle. Our fiiend managed to get about 200 yards towards camp and got ofl' at the foot of a hill and after di-mouutiUL; he fell over and we supposed he was dead. Our search for the Indian having proved fruitless we directed our steps toward the wounded man. Just as we came up wliere he was the two men we had left be- hind came riding up. He was bleeding profusely and we hastened to remove his clothing and make an exami- nation. We soon found the ball had entered the body on the right side between the two first ribs and had passed entirely through, coming out between the same ribs on the opposite side. We turned him on his back and the blood would spurt out some distance from the body and then we would turn. him over when it would do the same. We at once decided that one man should go to camp, some twelve miles distant, and give the alarm and secure help. He made the trip in safety and when he arrived there was intense excitement and many wondered whether we would not all be killed. From the time the help left the camp until their return were hours of gloom and many wished we had let the Indian 40 SCENES OF EARLIER DATS. keep the horse without any effort on our part and have traveled on our westward journey. We could better things immensely sometimes if we could see ahead as far as we can see back after the deed is done. After our messenger had left for camp the wounded man began to call for wattr, declaring he must have it or he would soon be dead. To add to his greater misery the sun poured down its heat with terrible force and we had no means of shelter. Not a bunch of willows or a patch of brush any where near us out of which we could construct a shade. The question was: ho a can we ob- tain water? When we left camp we only expected to be <>one a short time and did not take our canteens. We commenced then to examine our boots and out of all of them there was only one of mine found without holes. 1 soon pulled it off and Mr. Strong,' the owner of the stolen animal, started to liud water. This only left two of us to care for the one in distress, and the one left with me said he could not stand the sight of blood and went oft" so far that he knew an Indian could not reach him either with a rifle ball or an arrow. I tried to get him to go to the top of the hill at the foot of which «e were located and stand guard, l)ut no, he was not willing to go there and watch. While he was absent and the other gone for water, Mr. H. said, -pray forme Parson, I am afraid 1 am o-oing to die and if 1 do 1 am a lost man." Said 1, "why pray for you if everybody is going to be saved." With a deep tone of anguish in his voice he called out. "Do pray for me. Universalisni will do to live with but SCENES OF EARLIEH DAYS. 41 I fiiul it will not do to die with Oh, my dear friend, prjiy for nie before I am j^one for I cannot live much lonf^^er." I turned ni\ f.ice towards the toj) of the hill and with eyes wide open and watchin<^- for Indians (for I expected every niOiuent we would be shot) I prayed for him as best I could. After the prayer closed, he cried out, "Oh, Mother, Mother, I want to see you. " Said I, "your Mother is in the State of Maine." "Then," Suid he, "let me see my brother's wife before I die." "You shall, if you will only live a few^ hours and we can get you where she is." He said, with a deep pleading look in his eyes, "Par- son, you had better leave nie, for I am bound to die and you have a family to care for and I have none." "My friend," said I, "as long as their is breath in your body I will not leave you, for if we must perish we will perish side by side." The idea of intense thirst again seized him and he said, " Will that man never come with water? Oh, water, water, or I die." After awhile Mr. Strong- returned and told us that he went down into the canyon about 500 feet with great difficulty, when he came to a square offset of at least 500 feet more and came near plunginfif headlong over the precipice and that if it had not been for a small bush he would have made the fatal plunge. But he made his way out and to us in safety. "What shall we do," said he, "if he does not have 42 SCENES OF EARLIEK DAVS water soon he will be dead," In tlie forenoou, as we rounded tlie elbow of the can- yon, 1 had noticed an Indian trail leading down towaids camp and I thought he might possibly tind water by following it. He went and returned after a little while with hardly a half boot full of water, as it had leaked out. The wounded man drank heartily of it but it made him sick and he conjmenced to vomit, and the blood to spurt from both sides of his body. Fearing he would bleed to death we bandaged him with some pocket hand- kerchiefs, when, almost instantly he went into spasms and we had to remove them, i got one sup of water from the first that was brought in the boot that 1 had worn from the states and I really (as inconsistent as it may seem) thought it was the best water I had ever tasted. Water was brought the second time and it seemed to greatly relieve th« suft'erer. CH.APTEH XII. It was about noon when our messenger started for camp, and, as he had to travel twenty or twenty-five miles on a poor animal, we knew he would not return with the help until it would be very late in the after- noon, if not night. After consulting about the matter we concluded we had better start for camp and meet them on the way, as the Mow of blood had almost ceased and he seemed much easier. Late in the afternoon we lashed our guns to my Indian pony, which was to be led, together with the wounded man's horse, by one man, while the other man led the horse on which Mr. 11. SCENES OF EARLIEK DAYS. 48 rode and I got on behind liiiu so as to bold bim in tbe saddle, as it was an American one without an}' born that he could bold to. 1 bad neither stirrups nor a blanket a d I dill not dare to let go my hold of bim for fear he would fall from the horse I rode that entire distance M'itbout dismounting or even relaxing my hold on bim for a single moment. We concluded as the safest plan to follow an Indian trail as it was likely to pass over the best and easiest route. In places tbe trail was very rocky and every time tbe animal would make a blunder, and that was quite frequently, he would call out or then groan, it seemed to me as loud as be could, and I would beg him to remain quiet if possible for fear the Indians might hear the noise and attack us and we could not defend ourselves as all oxir lire arms were fast. We bad not gone half the distance to camp when night overtook us with nothing but starlight and it very dark. We missed the help sent out for us and made our way as best we could over bills and around them and through dark canyons one after another. At last when we began to be very tired and wondering if we were not lost, Mr. Strong called out, "here is our camp just ahead of us. I seethe lights." We arrived about 11 o'clock, tired, anx- ious and hungry, not having a mouthful to eat since early in the morning. I never entered any place with a more thankful heart in my life than I did my tent in the wilderness that night. Thankful that none of our party had been killed and that although I was in a few feet of Mr. H. when the Indian shot him, yet the ball did not penetrate my body. When those who went out to meet us found we were 44 SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS gone and they had not found us by the way, they con- cluded, as they still had some daylight to spare, that they would follow the tracks of the stolen animal and find the place where the Indian had done the shooting. They went up the west canyon some distance above where we had gone and found a trail with the tracks of a shod horse leading down into it, and soon found a large, natural barn, large enough to hold at least, so they thought, forty head of horses Here he had fast- ened the animal and went out some distance above until he came to another rock with a hole in it large enoagh for a rifle and to take sight and there he tired what he thought was a deadly shot. Why he did not remain be- hind his fort and continue to shoot the rest of us we never knew. It was about 2 o'clock in the morning when they returned. We were all glad to be together once more, even with the sore experience of the daj'. The day we were out on the hunt for the stolen horse an ox train came along late in the afternoon aud an old gentleman and his partner, the one who had failed to guard the ford, concluded they would go with them and wait next morning for our arrival. I'hat night the In- dians stole one of their horses and they had to remain where they m ere as the ox train had no special interest in them and they expected us along soon. They w^aited until near noon, when the one who had stood such poor guard came back to see what had become of us and to procure help to bring his partner and wagon to us. After he had been gone some timf and the old gentleman left alone to guard his property, mad at the Indians and chaffing under his loss, resolved that he would kill the Kiver issuing from a wall of solid rock. — page 26. 4G SCENES OF EARLIKjR DAYS. first Indian he SiiM'. They were camped near Salmon Falls and he soon saw an Indian seat himself on a rock and commence to spear the Salmon which were then runniny up the river. 1 le placed hiinst;lf tehiud a rock, leveled his gun at the Indian's breast and fired, killing- him instantly as he tumbled into the river. Then it was that he began to think very seriously over what he had done, and as a "giiilt\ conscience needs no accuser," he became very uneasy and greatly alarmed for fear other Indians might have seen one of their fellows slain. He finally concluded the best plain was to get out of there as speedily as possible. He hitched up old gra^^ (his remaining horse) and then placed himself on the other side of the wagon tongue and he and gray pulled the wagon up quite a hill towards our camp, when his part- ner met him and brought him safely in. ^Ve remained in camp three days so as to relieve the Avounded man as much as possible. He improved all the time but was very sore and hard on that account to hindle. The third day we fixed a swinging cot to the bows of a spring wagon and the fourth morning w'e placed him in it, hitched up our teams a id journeyed on, for we were afraid that something as bad as bullets might overtake us. There were no stations by the way that furnished provisons to hungry emigrants and we were all liable to starve to death if we delayed too long. The young man improved steadily but the swinging of the cot and the jolting of the wagon brought ]nany a hearty grunt or groan from him. When we reached the Cascade Mountains he seemed as well as ever and I never heard him swear but once, and then lie turned to me SCENES OF EARLIUR DAYS, 47 with an apology, I remember once being sent for to visit a man who was thought to be dying and he saiil: "Oh, Parson, if I ever get over this I will be a better man." "]f yon get over it," 1 said "you will forget this promise and be as bad or worse than before." He got over it and went to keeping saloon and I con- <'luded he was not bettering much. Having spoken of what become of the wounded man and how he prospered, I will now return to the thread of my story. After we left our camp at Salmon Creek the scenes and intense excitement of the past week began gradually to subside. ]•'. very thing moved along- smoothly without any more interruptions from the Indians, but we were by no means asleep and heedless of our danger and that we were still in an enemy's country. But be- fore I speak further of our onward march I want to re- late a scene which transpired on the north side of Snake river, about fifty miles above F'ort Boise, the place w here Boise City, the capitol of Idaho, is now located. Here occured one of the most brutal mascacres that ever took place on the American continent. I do not mean in the ureat number killed but the manner in which the fiends accomplished their purpose. It was so inhuman that no writer or historian ever dared to tell how it was done and had it not been for those who came on after them it never would have been told. An emigrant train was moving along quitely, not sus- pecting that any danger was near, when all of a sudden tb.e savage yell was heard, striking terror to evex-y heart, 48 SCEHES OF L'ARLIEE DAYS, and \\ell it might, for out of the entire company only two boys were left as stirTivors of the scene of that day. Heaven looked down in pity on this company as the dy- ing groans of the sufferers ascended. To fully accom- lish their brutal work they burned the wagons, and then used the iron rotlstoburn their victims into insensibility. The two lads who were saved, one, I Slunk, was about twelve years old and the other fourteen. When the work of death begun the youngest boy stole away and hid in some tall grass some distance from the scene. The other lad was piercetl through the 1x)dy with an arrow, and, it is supposed, the Indians left him for dead. After the Indians had accomplished their deadly work and had taken the stock and left the scene, the smaller ])oy hejird the sound of a passing horse and very cautious- ly raising himself he peeped out from his hiding place, when to his joy he saw that it wi-s a white man. He immediately ran to him and was lifted up behind him and carried to a place of safety. When this lone rider saw what had been done he passed the scene in a hurry and did not see the boy with the arrow in his body. After awhile the one pierced with an arrow came to him- self, although somewhat dazed, and found that he could travel and made his way to Fort Boise fifty miles dis- tant, where an Enghsh surgeon, who had examined him, found that the arrow was showing itself on both sides of his body, lie extracted it and took care of him until he was able to travel and tln^i sent him on to Ore- gon. Joe Lane, who, I believe was then the Territorial Gov- SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 49 ernor of Oregon, made the Lid a present o. a thousand dollars, so as to assist him in getting- an education. When 1 saw him a year or two after this he seemed well and strong-. I understood that he and his brother vowed vengeance on the iSnuke Indians and determined to kill every one they could. But whether they ever w-ent into that country again 1 never learned. NoAv I must ask the privilege of returning the second time to my story and will try to stick to it a little closer than I have done during the first of this chajiter. We had two brothers with us who failed to agree very well with our captain and they concluded to travel and camp alone, but it was very plainly to be seen they had no in- tention of getting far from us for fear they might get into trouble with the Indians. They traveled and camped near us for some tiuje but no difKculty occured to mar either their or our peace. When we arrived on the summit overlooking the Mai heur river we say in the valley a large circular fire and the Indians killing and eating grasshoppers and crickets for supper, but as we did not relish that kind of "grub" we did not ajDply for any; in fact it was onl}' a few moments after they saw us until the fires were all out and not an Indian to be seen. Naturall}^ when Indians were so wild they would not visit our camp, we thought they meant mischief. We camped below the ford of the river and the two brothers camped still lower down. Just at dark we heard the sound of wolves again; just such a sound as we heard the night before Mr. H. was shot on Salmon creek, and we knew that we must be cautious again. We stationed guards in our part of the 50 SCEJJTES OF EAKLlEm DATS, company and one of the brothers stood guard for iheu/: Along towards midnight the sharp report of a rifle was heard and the whole camp was aroused from their slum- bers. An Indian had sneaked to our portion of the camp and had stolen our best horse, and by some means. had passed our guard and was trying to pass the guard of the other camiD, The lower guard called to the horse, as he saw- him moving off", "whoa, there! whoa there!"' Instead of stopping, the animal went faster and this caused the Indian to straighten himself on the horse. As he did so the guard fired and the Indian concluded it was rather close rang^e and jumped from the horse and went down an embankment at least twenty feet. The next morning we saw where he had made his leap, but there was no sign of blood, but his tracks showed plain enough that he left there in a great hui-ry. On the bank of this stream, and not far from the crossing, were two springs not more than three feet apart. One was nice, cold water to drink and the other would scorch a bucksin cracker in a second. The bottom land on this river seemed to be very good, but whei-e timber could be got for fencing and firewood is more than I could tell, for there was none nearer than the mountains and they were a great many miles away. Not many days after leaving the Malheur river, five young men of our company concluded we were not traveling fast enough to suit them, as they seemed in a great hurry to reach western Oregon. They went to Snake river and bought a canoe of the Indians, for we were then in the borders of another tribe who were f riendlv, and three of them with the larger share of their SCENES OF KAKLlKli 1)\\"S. 51 bagg'iige got in the vessel ami started tl(».\n toward the Ooluiiibia river, while the other two took the horses ami followed thf emigrant ro^id. One of those who went an tlie c iiioe had been very sick on the journey and I had t.ikeii him in and hauled him more than 20U miles, while 1 went afoot, and the bargain was that 1 should have his horse Uf work with mine over the ranges of mountains we had yet to pass, so that my family would not have to walk. VV^ien he was about to start for the river" that morning I kindly, but very tirndy, reminded him of his bargain and told him I thought he was doing me and my family a great injustice, when we had helped him dur- ing his sickness. He acknowledj^ed his contract with me in the presence of Mr. Strong of Michigan, but said "I am determined to go and take my horse with me." Mr. S. said, "Parson if he can jjrosper in doing wrong let him go and 1 will see you safe into the Willamette valley ." This is the same man who failed to stand guard at the ford of Salmon creek and was virtually the cause of Mr. H. being shot. When the two men who had gone on with the horses arrived at the ford of the Deschutes river they heard that the bodies of three white men had been found at the mouth and when they investigated they found them to be the bodies of their three compan- ions who had attempted the navigation of strange streams to them. Before we reached Burnt river I found so far as I was concerned there was another very serious trouble ahead. We were without meat and had ver^' little flour left. None in our train had any provisions to sj^are but expected they would have to buy for themselves. My friend, who had promised to see me safe through, said, 52 SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. "Parson, I will divide with you as lon^- as I can if you cannot buy any." I told him if he would lend me some money, for I had spent all mine crossing some ferries, that I would go ahead and see if provisions could not be bought of other emigrant trains. It so happened that on that same day I heard of a Baptist minister who had some meat to sell. In traveling on we found him camped not far from the road down towards the river. When I approached hiuj I told what I wanted and his reply was, "you can have what you wish." I asked the price and he said he thought it ought to be worth ten cents a pound, as that was what he paid for it in Indiana, and after hauling it that far he ought to have as much as that. He could not and would not be hard on poor emigrants like him- self. 1 bought what I thought would last beyond the Cascade Mountains into civilization and several others did the same. After we all arrived in Oregon 1 formed his acquaint- ance again and found him a consistent christian gentle- man. His name was Chandler and he was the only man 1 ever talked with who did not travel more than one sabbath on the plains, and on that one he broke his wagon pole. One reason ^vhy meat was so scarce was that we had not seen a deer or an antelope for hundreds of miles and we concluded if there was any they must be about the mountains. We crossed Burnt river and ascended the divide be- tween it and Powder river, passing not far from where Baker city now stands, not thinking once that there were immense fortunes in gold in the earth over which -\ He exclaimed, " I am killed ! " — page 38. 54 scENEii OF eai;lif:k days. we were then traveling. From Powder river we p>sse(l over another divide between it and Grande Rounde valley and when we advanced far enough to behold the valle}' I thought it was the most Ixjautiful spot I had ever seen any\v'h3re. It-* ivarr^'a width i-; said to be twenty miles and its length forty. We crosseil near the upper portion of the valley and near where the town of Union now stands. As far as we could .see down the valley it was one ininiense^ Reld of r€?d top, as also to the mountains above us, Indians sometimes manifest a greitdeal of shrewdness in money-making schemes as well as white folks. While camped in Grande Rounde valley a ('ayuse Indian came to us and said he had viewed out and workeve got up about the sum mit where we saw the end gate of a wagon standing and the very significant sign placed on it, "couldn't rip any longer, couldn't," and we looked around and there was his wagon completely demolished by "ripping," as he called it, over the rock and logs so much. I often wished afterwards that I could find the man who wrote those signs for I thought there must be something extra in him when he could have the wear and tear of more than 2000 miles travel and still retain so much good nature. The signs left by this man made us all feel better and assisted us in over-coming the difficulties \)y the way. We camped one night near the foot of Mount Hood, in a small prairie, and found good water, poor grass and a cold frosty night, even if it was about the middle of August. There Avas some improvements in the road from this place but still we had to pass over many a rock and log after this. We finally came to the place of all places, so far as a name was concerned, we had already, ?*CENKS OF EARLllia DAYS. 5i* many miles back, passed the Devil's canyon, and now to think after the lonet\veen fifteen and twenty miles to go that day, which was the twenty- second day of August, 1851. When we came to break- fast we found that we had enough crackers for our children through the day by being very saving of them and that so far as we were concerned we must make that twenty miles on one cracker and a cup of coffee. We ate it and started with a courage which knew no such word as fail. We thought it very poor policy to give up when we were almost in sight of final victory and yet we knew it would be very hard work to travel all day on such a light breakfast. On and on we went over hills and hollows as fast as our poor team could take us. It SCENES OP EARLIEU DAYS. 63 was real nice to see the mountains beginning to Matten out and our road improving greatly in smoothness. We knew from the appearance of the country that we were Hearing Foster's at the foot of the mountain. No one knows what gladness tills the soul when after traveling and toiling as long as we had, and the last day on empty stomachs, they begin to see and know that they would soon be there. Such joy cannot be described and only those know of it who have passed through such scenes. For one I felt like saying, "hip, hip, hurrah." But if I had been disposed to exult and feel proud of our success, pride would have had a great tumble in a moment's time when I thought, "here I am 2000 miles and more from home with a family to feed and nothing to feed them on and no money to buy any- thing with but three bits and that borrowed." It is said that a peacock struts most beautifully until his eyes happen to light on his ugly feet then all his feathers fall in a moment's time. Had I been disposed to feel proud when I thought of my slim purse and our poor clothing pride would have instantly tied. Finally we drove up in front of a log cabin where signs of plenty could be seen. PART SECOND, CHAPTER XVII. At tlie foot of tlie Casciitle Mountains I propose to be- <;fn mv experiences of western life, for here I had my first struggle. When we drove up in front of Mr. Fos- ter's house a gentleman came out to the front gate and I asked him if his name was Foster. He said it was. Walking up near him I said: "VVeare here and almost starved, having traveled all day on one cracker and some coffee, and now, sir, if you will supply our wants I will give you the last cent of money I have in the world, which is three bits, and to- morrow I will work for you until you say you are fully paid." He replied that a great many of the emigrants who had passed there had abused him and called him Old Pica- yune Foster, "Now, sir, if you will speak a kind word for me as you go up the valley I will let you have what you want for the money you have without the work." I told him I certainly would do that much and thanked him very gratefully besides. He had killed a tine, fat three-year-old beef the day before and he gave SCENES OF EAULIKR DAYS. (55 me at least ten pounrls of that and a nice lot of Hour and said: "There is the hoe and yonder is the potato ])atch, help yourself. I will oo to the barn and throvv some hay down for your horses for there is no grass near here." T will leave the reader to guess the amount of supper we ate, and we afterward slept soundly all night. Often in talking with men who had passed ]Mr. Foster's, both before arid after we did, I heard them abuse him, and when I would tell of his kindness to us it would astonish them to think he had been so liberal. I never knew wliy he treated us so kindly, but one thing T f-an say, I was glad to find a friend when we really wanted one for we were strangers in a strange land. The next morning I went to him again and thanked him and asked him if he could tell me where I could get some w^ork to do. He said he thought a man about a mile from him, and directly on our road, wanted help for he had just thrashed his grain with an old chaii" piler and now he wanted to clean it with a fanning mill. We found the man and the place and the work and soon a bargain was made and he was to board us, if my wife would do the cooking, and give me a dollar and a half a day. We remained with him two days and then traveled on up the valley in search of work and a home. Emigrants that year were allowed, if they w'ere mai'ried, 320 acres of land and as we traveled on we made incjuiry where homes could be found. We came to a stream called Mollala and crossed it on the main mail route up the country from Oregon city. It was a beautiful stream of GG SCENES OF EARLIER DATS. pure mountain water and w e camped there and found grass in abundance. There was a man Jiving near the ford who had been there a number of years, being among the first to go to Oregon overland. He seemed to be a nice quiet gentle- man. He had married prior to 1850 a very worthy young lady, and all who married before that date were entitled to 640 acres. This he had secured from the best laud in the territory, for Oregon was not then a state. He kept a Post Office at his place and one day in his absence the mail came and his wife opened the sack and among other letters she found one directed to her hus- band in a women's hand writing. Curiousity prompted her to open it and she found that it was a letter from his wife in the states, fetating that her team was about to give out and she wished he would come and meet her and help her in to the Willamette valley. When h^ re- turned his wife showed him the letter and he acknow- ledged all, but had quietly kept it from her. "What had I better do," said he, "I do not want any trouble with you \vomen, for I have deceived both of you." "You must go and meet her and help her over the mountains, then bring her here and we will settle the matter without any trouble whatever," she exclaimed. He went and met his first wife and brought her to his home and said to the women: "I do not want any law suit or scandal about this. You two talk it over and decide between yourselves and the one that will live with me I will live with her and the other one I will ijive 320 acres of land and build a ■St!"E-S"ES OP EAliLlKK D.WS (w liouse and barn on it at my own expense an^ furnish some stock for it/' mentioni)i.g' the anion nt. The first one spoke up imniediately anil wiid tt) the litical strife and that (iod's (claims weie far above all (Hhers and that wish should be followed. I gave myself to the work of preaching and trying to save men from endless ruin I reineml?er once establish- ing an appointment on North Santium and one Hunday I preached on endless punishment, proving the doctrine from the Bible and showing its reasonableness. There was present a Universalist and after the sermon he said to a neighlx)r, "I do not believe in scaring people into religion.'' "Oh," said the other, "if they can be scared into it let them be scared for it will l>e the happiest scare they ever had in all their lives." Now, I want to talk a little while to any young minis- ter who may chance to r(!ad this art cle. I had an ap- pointment once for what was then termed a two days' SCENES OF EAKUEK DAYS. 71 meetiiii? at the Elkiiis school house in what was known as the Forks of Saiitiam. My two days' uieetiu;^- was begun on Saturday night. Through the week I had been trving to fix up a sermon for the first appointment and all the text I could find to interest me was the one found in the book of Daniel, "Thou art weighed in the balances and art found wanting " All I could think about was the history connected with the text and when 1 got up to preach I had uo trouble going that far. When i had gone th-it far the thought occured to me. "now what are you going to do with the balances and what will you place on each side " Put un ungodly world on one side and God's law on the other and see how they wall balance. I never had better liberty in preaching in all my experience and I w^ound up by show- ino- that Christ alone could balance the scales as he was the end of the law for righteousness to every one that believeth. When the sermon was finished they came running to me telling what a fine sermon they had. The thought occured to ine, "you call that a good sermon 1 will show what a good one is tomorrow." The morrow came and a full house assembled and 1 took for a text, "And I s-aw, as it were, a sea of glass mingleVl with fire; and them that had gotten the victory over the beast, and over his imaoe, and over his mark, and over the number of his name stands thereon having the harps of God." If there was a sea of glass I never saw it and 1 never got any- where near the harps of God; but I quit badly Avhipped and, to a certain extent, pride conquered, although I have had many a hard tussle with it since. But it learned ('2 SOEJj'Eh' OF EAKXfEft' OAFS" lue one very important leHson :iti<1 that was to take plainer texts and not try to show my own smartness in- stead of preaching- Christ. There was a camp meeting once held by the Tnited Hi'ethen a few miles from where I li^'ed and I attended^ it." on the sabbath. They as'ked me to preacb for them ill the afternoon, which is and always h:k» been, a very unfavorable hoair. However, I consented and took for a text, "Foi' the l)ed is shorter than that a man can^ stretch hin>self on it and the covering narrower tham that he can wrap himself in it."^ When I got up to preach the j)eo})le were standing in grou]3s talking, ox" seated eating nidons, not all the congregation but per- liaps one-half, i told thenj I was not sure whether i had anything to say that would interest then* but one thing was »ure my exjjeriencs of text would not fail to interest all if they would listen and hear it. They com- menced to be seated and finally all were ready to listen and when i told what the text was some came near laughing out loud. There was a good degree of interest and excellent attention but the thing 1 wanted to speak of particularly was this: There was present a gentle- man and his wife whom 1 did not know and had never met and after the sermon they started for home a few miles distant. After they left the camp ground and were traveling homeward they both seemed to be very serious- Finally the liusband broke the silence and said : "Wife, somebody has been telling that j^reacher all about us having that orphan boy and how bably we are treating him by furnishing the bed W'e have. We must 'SCK'STeS V)¥ EARLlKlJ 'DATs. 73 aiiend our wavs and <>et him a l)etter bed and better other bojs. J'he winter of ll^/)() and 1 H57 was one of the worst 1 ever s iw in any country for dampness. There were forty •days without one single ray of biignt sunshine and it rained some out of every twenty-four hours. We resolved ito go where there was sunshine if it was to be found on the western slope of our great country. When we left Oregon for California, whick was in February, 1858, the elder of the church where 1 had been pleaching for sev- eral years and in whose bounds we lived came to me and said : "You are going into a very dangerous country, one where human life is not valued very highly and it Avill be necessary for you to be well armed or they are sure to kill you." 1 told him 1 was not the least afraid of any thing of the kind, that it did not look well for a minister of the gospel of peace to tell men to repent, and at the same time have a Bible in his pocket and a pistol in the other read}' to defend himself and kill others. Said he with still more earnestness: "1 do not want you to leave Oregon without a pistol and 1 have one that 1 will make you a present of. It needs to be repaired a little, which you no doubt can have done at Portland while you are waiting for the steamer." He jjlaced the pistol in my satchel and said: "Yon must get this repaired for no doubt you will want it in 74 SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS your new home." 1 did not see the weapon again until alter we had bet-n in CaHfornia some tune. We had some fowls which the owls were troubling at night. 1 had the pistol repaired and used to shoot at the owls so as to 1' lighten them away. It would hardly have killed even if it had liit the owds for it was nothing but an old Allen "pepper box." One night when we were all gone from home some one broke into the house and stole a pair of blankets, a chopping ax, a watch, a fine tooth comb, fifty cents in money and the pistol and that was the last 1 saw of them . 1 have related the above for the purpose of showing the opinion that even good men had in those days about California society. Then this state was looked upon as being inhabitated by a cut-throat race of peo])le and one especially dangerous to travel in, or to live in. I never found any trouble in traveling through any of this Avest- ern country and I have traveled thousands of miles on horseback and in a buggy, by steaniers and railroads. I have found Californians a whole-souled people and will- ing to entertain strangers, and as to morals they will compare favorably uith any of the newer states and terri- tories, or even with Oregon, our neighbor on the north, although the Portland Oregonian may entertain different views. I once talked with a lady who came down from Oregon to California on a visit to some friends. I said to her: "When [ lived in Oregon 1 liked the society very much. INIost of the people attended church, and rich and poor met on an equality. A stranger could not tell SCTrSES OF EAIJLIKIJ DAYS. liy the ricli from the poor at their social gatherings." 'If you were thei'e now, sir, you wouh^ Knd a line e that 1 thought 1 w(Hdd go over and iitvite thenii to church, "Yes, you d(r that," they both replied, ''and you will g-et whipped before you get out of the saloon You must reuieni-ber you are a very late arrival itt California and are not accustouwjd to the ways of the people here." 1 replied that 1 w,.8- not tlte least afraid of beiTig. whipped, that that was a gan>e two could play at and 1 had determined to risk the consequences and go. 1 went over and walked into the sal(x>u and watched them gam- ble and drink a lew moments and then pulled off my hat and made them as polite a bow as 1 co«ld (after I had ealled their attention.) Then 1 said to them, "gentle- men, you have had a game of your kind, now come over to church at the hall and take a game of my kind." i also gave the bartender a special invitation to conie, and he said immediately. "1 request every one present lo get out of here and go to church for i want to close the saloon as soon as possi- ble and go out and get my family and attend church, for no juan shall come into my saloon and invite me but what 1 must hear what he has to say." 1 returned and told my companions what I had done and that they were nearly all coming to church, but still they doubted and i told then) to wait a few moments and see. It was only a short time until they commenced to (;ome, and with them the saloon keeper and his family. Others saw them coming and they also came until the SCENES OF EAKLlEll DAYS. 7i) «'t)Ugregati<)ii miuibfrcd al)Oiit eij^litj, and as well-be- liaved as any one conld wish. Tli(ue was one man, who, I think, had one dram beyond sobjf, came in eating- a red apple. He seated himself but kept on eating and look- ing to see what I was going to do. He finally laid his a[)ple and knife down by his side and listened, seemingly with an intense interest, until the close of the services and then resumed his eating. The text 1 preached from that day was a very pointed one, "And those shall o-q away into everlasting punishment. ' It never entered my mind that such a text, owing to the occasion, mio-ht be regarded as a direct insult, until afterwards when 1 got to thinking about it. From the text 1 endeavored to show the real necessity there was for inHicling punishment in the world to come that no government on earth was safe without it and that God in his infinite goodness would inflict punish- ment in the future on all who refused submission to His will while they lived. Second — I endeavored to show the nature of the jjun- ishment to the inflicted That one of the main ingredi- ents would be the lashings of a guilty conscience and the fact that there was nothing in all the universe to calm its fears, that such has passed out and beyond God's compassion and that consistently with his nature mercy could not be extended to them. I asked those who drank how they would like to have the raging thirst for liquor to continue to haunt them forever and yet no means of gratifying it. Ur then how would you like to have the influence and power that gambling hasoveryou to continue for interminable ages, tossing the soul about 80 SCENKS' or E.KKLIEK DATS" as if on a sea of tire. 1 contemTed that w lono-doiiig' nratle men miHeTuble here and wliere it would be con- tinued in the world to come anxl all by their own acts; thev ntust of necessity continue' to l>e ni-iserable-, for look, where they would they would not see relief coming to- them. I urg-ed that if hell was no woisethan a troubled canscieuce, wliicb in its v^vy ititare was-tornvetrting, that it was better to shnn ft. Third — ^I endeavored to show the dnratioir of the pun- ishment, taking for my aitthority the text, "And these f*hall go away into everlasting punishment." When I advanced iu this proposition there was a silence and solemnity which was alnjost oppressive. After that day I never hail any trouble in securing a congregration at that i)Iace as long a» I preached there and was always treated with respect by the people, in- cluding the saloon keeper. They seen>ed to respect me the more l>ecause i told tlieni the tiuth as found in CJod's word. This, i suj^pose, was the beginning of what is now known as the VVoodbridge church where our good ])rother, Dr. Steen, now ministers and has been minis- tering in holy things for a nuu)ber of years past, .\fter the scenes of that day th(;y sent me an invitation to come and deliver a temperance address, 1 took some good singers with me and went and their were, 1 think, four- teen who enlisted with the Sons of Temperance. It was (^uite a temperance revival for a small, new town and I hope done some good. There is no doubt but what the singing of temperance songs added greatly to the interest of the evening's entertainment. "SCENES or exkltck ij.ws. si CHAPTKK XIX, I believe it is a historical fact that tlic first eainj) aiieeting ever held iu Christendom was held in 'July, l.SOO, l)V a Presbyterian luiiiister whose name was McG ready jiud that the oustoiu was kejit up by them for a uuiuber •of years. Finally it was taken u{» by tlie Cumberland Presbyterians and Methodists and has by them been carried on until the present day. Camp meetings in an early day, when houses of woi-ship were scarce, were no doubt productive of great good, but their utility does not api^ear so plainly in the older sections of our country where houses of worship are so abundant. In Sept-'uiber, l^oS, assisted by others ministers 1 held a ca up meeting near the C.daveras river about five miles from >>tockton and not very far from the road leading from Stockton to Sacramento city and the bounds of the congregation where 1 was preaching. The first service seemed to be an indication of what the future ones would be. The Spirit of the Lord was pres- ent with His moving jjower uniting the hearts of God's people as the heart of one man. It was largely attended by the people of Stockton who seemed deeply interested in the services. Although some of the rougher element were present yet such was the deep solemnity which pervaded the entire audience they behaved as well as though the}' had been inside of a house of worship. The preaching was of a very plain, practical kind, mostly on doctrine showing the foundation on vshich the Church of God rested. Human responsibility was^ clearly pointed out showing that God alone had the righ 82 SCKNES OF l.AKLIEK DAYS, to our services. I beiieve there would be more couver- isions at the present time if the great doctrines of our holy religion were explained more and defended by those who stand on Zion's walls to protdaiin (ioil's eternal truth. It was when the Apostles preached "Jesus and the liesurrection" that men in great numbers turned t>» the Lord. On the day of Pentecost the preachiug was doctrinal and that of the strongest kind, "Him beiug- delivered by the determinate (counsel and foreknowledge of God ye have taken and by wicked hands have crucified and slain whom God hath raised up, having loosed the pains of death because it was not possible that he should be holden of it." It was when Paul "reasoned of right- eousness, temperance and judgment to come that Felix trenjbled." And it does seem to me there is no other way to make men tremble only in view of their responsi- bility and the coming scenes of the final judgment as revealed in the Holy Bible. During the meeting to which I refer there were no great, n )isy damonstiatiotis suf:;h as is sometimes com- mon on such occasion, but an awful solemnity seemed to hover about the grove in which the meeting was held and it prevaded ever}' heart, whether they were profess- ors or not. I remend)er one man who lived eighty miles from town who said he had important interests to see to in Stockton. For six days in succession he made an effort to go to town and when he came near the meeting- he said there was an invisible powder which restrained him and he would remain at the meeting during the day. This man was not a professor of religion b'lt he feft the moving of God's Spirit and ii loud call to God's SCENES OF EAHLIKU DAYS. 88 Service. Whetlier he was yielded or not 1 do not know. The result of that meeting, so far as visible things were concerned, was thirty conversions and accessions to the church and among the number was a young man who afterwards become a minister of the gospel and is still holding up the standard of the Cross. This young- man was convicted of sin in rather a peculiar manner. Together with a number of other men he was engaged in teaming from Stockton to the mines. One night a num- ber of tliese teamsters met at a certain hotel and after su])per was over and their teams attended to they all as- sembled in the barroom. At times it was the custom for all who could sing, to sing a song before retiring for the night. As a rule tliese songs were not of a religious nature. One and another had sung their songs until the last one to sing was the young man to whom I refer. Before he sang remarks were made complimenting the singers and all seemed to have a great amount of sport as they joined in their merry peals of laughter at the songs and the singers, when all, with united voice, said to the young man, "Now, Lat, it is your turn to give us a song." He was an excellent singer and had been -raised in a deeply pious family in his native state. He said he never knew why it was, but he selected the song that had thrilled so many hearts in the ages past, "Amazing Grace How Sweet the Sound that Saved a Wretch Like IMe; I once was Lost but now I'm Found; was Blind but not I See." He sung all six verses and when he had finished he was left alone in the room, for, one by one, they had all retired. This was the arrow 84 SCENES OF !,AKLIEU DA VS. the Holy Spirit used to reach his soul, although there was not a word spoken by any one, but all retired to rest in deep silence and amid deep solemnity. Thei'e was but little rest for him for his song- brought up memories of other daj's, when the family were assembled for their accustomed evening worship and among the songs they used to sing was the one he had just repeated. This was the means used to bring him to Christ. During the meeting, one night about 12 o'clock, I was awakened by the voice of prayer which came from a man who seemed to be alive to the danger his soul was in of being forever lost. It was only a few moments until a messenger arrived saying, "The man who keeps the boarding tent wishes to see you." This man was a cripple in one of his arms and had resorted to the saloon business for a living and was keeping one almost in sight of the camp ground. We made him promise not to sell any liquor dui'ing the meeting and gave him the boarding tent. He kept his word and conducted an orderly house at the meeting. The night of which 1 have already spoken he seemed to have an awful view of his sins and the evil he had done in selling whiskey. When I came to him he seemed to be greatly alarmed and cried out, "Parson, pray for me for 1 shall soon be beyond help." "Mr. W.," said I, 'are j^ou willing to quit sellin<; that which is ruining you as well as many others and be- come a meek and lowly follower of the Redeemer? " "No, Parson," said he, "I cannot give that up; if I did I would starve " "Do you not believe God could find some other wav 8f> SCENES OF EARLIER DAVS, tor you to make a living?" "No, I do not see how he could," I told him very plainly he could not be a Christian and live only to sell that which had proved the ruin of so main' thousands; tliat with such work he could not glorify God. His agony seemed to increase and 1 ])leaded with the Lord to give him courage to come out boldly on the Lord's side. It was all of no avail; he would not give up his evil ways and trust the Lord to show him a l)etter way. After this he never swore himself, neither would he allow any one to swear who was in his em})loy. Not many years after this he was fou'.id dead in bed one morning, having died with delirium tremens, it was thought, for he had been showing symptons of them for some little time. When 1 first formed his acquaintance lie told me he had a wife in the states and that she be- longed to the "High Pressure Church." I told him that was a new church to me and he would have to explain himself. He said, "the 'High Pressure Church' was the Methodist church because they loved to shout so loudly." The last time I ever saw him was a year or two after 1 had moved away. I was passing one day and as I halted to water my horse he came out and while we were talk- ing an old neighbor rode up, and when he had watered his horse, he said: "Parson, come in and have a horn with me, for you never drank with me while you lived here." "No, 1 never did," said I, "and should I go in and drink with you now you would feel like 'hooting' me out SCENES OF KARLIER DAYS, 87 of the place for you know it is wrong for a minister of the gospel to drink." However, 1 went into the saloon and got a drink of water and the saloon keeper gave me a cigar. When the neighbor went to pa}' for his dram he handed me five dollars saying 1 was traveling and it might come very handy for expenses. As he did this the saloon keej^er threw^ down a dollar and a half making the same kind of a remark-. Two or three weeks after the camp meeting near Stockton there was one held near the town of Mountain View in Santa Clara county. The ground was nicely shaded with trees which afforded a good shelter for those who came to worship. The meeting began on Fri- day and without any religious interest so far as man could judge. Saturday the attendance was greatly in- creased but the interest remained the same both at morn- ing and evening services. Sabbath was a beautiful day and after the morning prayers at the tent and breakfast was over there was a general prayer meeting held before the hour of preaching. After the 11 o'clock sermon the sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered but the services seemed to all to be lifeless. Even uncon- verted men began to talk about it saying: "1 was in hopes there would be a deep interest on the jjart of the Christian people so that we might feel like becoming Christians for it cheers us as well as them to see life in the services." The afternoon services proved to be like those going before and professors of religion and non-professors both seemed to grow- restless about it, wondering what the «8 SCENES OF EARLIEU DArJ?, outcome would be. Between the afternoon and evening" service two >'Oung ministers had gone f&r a walk and tcp talk about the meeting when they were overtaken b}'^ the leader of the meeting (sometimes they were called' Bishops even if they were Presbyterians ) This 13isho}> was Father Bi'awley w'ho said, 'Brethern. I was search- ing for you, one of you must presich tanight and 1 can- not determine which shall, so you must settle it Ix^tweeu' yours!-lves," and took his departure. The two youngs men retired to separate places and prayed and then they came together again but neither was satisfied. Again^ they went and prayed and wlien they met again the younger of the two said, "For the first time in my life life 1 believe I am the one who should preach the sermoit tonight." "If you have the light, preach, for I am itot at all sat- isfied," said the other. The hour arrived for the evening service to begin and with a heart full of his message he entered the pulpit and began When he commenced he told the congre- gation : "When 1 have finished what I have to say 1 expect to ask those who desire to be saved to come forward for the prayers of (lod's people, ajid a number are coming and they are going to experience the joys of pardoned sins, and 1 want you Christian people to be ready to pray with them and then lead them to Christ and rejoice with them." The leader, or Bishop of the meeting, was an old vet eran and had passed through many spirtual conflicts but the assertion of the young minister seemed almost to SCENES OF KAKl.lEU DAYS, 8T> »in nerve him and lie groaned aloud, so as to be heard k at but rather a hard place for a poor man to make a living. In my judgujent there were better locations for a denominational college than this one and one where it would have jjrospered and did great good. A wine producing community such as Sonoma was then, and still more so in after years, was by "no means favor- able for the morals of the youth who lived there and who might come there to be educated; but the Synod had selected it and I acquiesced in the decision although the selection was made before I came to California. I he first sessions of the school were held in an old Adobe build- ing whose exterior was anything but beautiful but who.se interior had been furnished in a more becoming manner. I said the Synod had selected tlie location. It was the SCENES OF EAULIEll 1)AVS. M Pacilic Presbytery, and afterwards when the Hyiiod was organized the}' approved the selection also. The corner stone of the new building, I think, was laid the fall of lM()() under the direction of the Masonic fraternity, L;r. W. A. Scott delivering the address. Tlie new building \vas to be 50x70 feet and tliree stoiies in height, including the roof. The foundation was to be of roc-k, and at first it was the intention to have erected a stone building but this was changed afterwards and a concrete one was put up in its stead. There is no build- ing anywhere that could have a more secure place on which to build, for although the foundation was built of rock it rested on rock all around the building. It is a substantial building with a flat roof and one that presents a good appearance to the passer by. While I was acting as agent for it i told the trustees one day that i was going over to*a iMr. Swift's, a very wealthy man living on the west side of the valley, to see what could be done in the way of getting means from him. 1 remained and took dinner with him by his own invitation. When we started for the dining room he went to the mantel piece and took from it his Bourbon bottle and wanted me to take a dram. "No, sir, I never tasted it in my life and I will not begin now ," 1 said. "Oh, it will not do you any harm," he replied. I re- fused. "Mr. S.," said 1 "you would be a great deat better oft' today had you never had anything to do with it." "I believe men are much better off who do not use it, but I have become so accustomed to it that 1 have no 92 SCENES OF EARLIER DAI'S. appetite to eat unless I drink it/' was his answer. He down with his dram antl we went to dinner and had a real nice social time. After dinner he showed me his buildings, consisting of a stone barn, a stone fish pond and a stone house. He wanted me to see his library room where he was erecting- a book case and expected that it and his library would cost S10,()()U, and yet he could neither read nor write. After t^howing me these things we took a seat on the front porch, for it was a warm, pleasant day and 1 said to him: "With all your beautiful surroundings 1 would fully expect to get $2000 for our college here in the valley and near your home. " "1 do not tliink 1 can give you as nuich as that," said he "but 1 will give you $10. 0, for 1 would like to see a good college here for the benefit of the valley." The school was moved from the old Adobe building- to the new one as soon as it was ready to be occupied. It seemed to be prosperous for a time, but after awhile the trustees borrowed some money and mortgaged the building- and lot to a private individual and it was not long until the entire property was lost to the church, and finally the party ])urchasiug- sold it to the school district and it is now used as a high school. I continued as agent for two years and then resigned and it was sev- eral years after this when the property changed hands and was lost so far as the church was concerned. Now the church has no organization in the valley, neither does it own any property there. While living- in Sonoma valley I used to preach at St. Helena in Napa county, occasionally. The winter of SCENES OF KAULIKU DAYS. 5i3 18G1 I went there to hold nieeting-s Saturday and Sun- day but the interest was such that they continued for three weeks, it was very rainy weather, but those liv- ing at a distance put covers on their wagons and came although there was no moonlight. Every night the house was well-filled and it was plainly to be seen that the interest was gradually increasing. There was a young lawyer living in the community who had been raised in a very pious famiJv, his father being a Presbyterian minister in the city of Philadehjhia and pastor of a large church. He had left home when quite young and had sailed in almost all waters finally finding a stopping place in one of the inountain counties of California where he married an excellent Christian women. He got into the h ibit of drinking some before he entered on a political career and of course the excite- ment of political life only urged it on. He was elected to the California Legislature and while in Sacranientohe drank to such excess that he had the delirium tremens or as Father Denny of Oregon used to term it, "devil's trimmings." The doctor was called and he forbid him having any more liquor. He told me he was worth at the time about $5000 and that he offered all this for one bottle of brandy, which was refused him After his term expired in the Legislature he moved to St. iJelena where 1 made his acquaintance. He had become sober but had turned infidel and was arguing it with his neioh- bors. The meeting had been going on some ten days and although his wife attended he did not go himself. I was stopping with one of the elders of the church and one day it was raining as usual and I got up, ))ut on my 1)4 SCENES OF EAKLIliU DATS, overcoat and gathered an umbrella, when he called out, "where are you g"oing in such a rain as this." I told hiiu I was going to see the judge. "You had better stay in out of the rain for it is a very foolish errand on which you are goiiiL;; for that ni m is. aniiitidel and you will only make a failure," "No," said I, "I feel th it 1 must go." 1 went and found him in his offic-e all alone and after ;i little pleasant conversation I said to him: "Judge, 1 balieve I hive a me&sigs from Uol for you tonight and I would be pleased to see you." He replied immedi- ately. •'1 will be there, sir." He came according to promise and the sermon was on the Law of God. It seemed to interest hnn and that night before the close of the meeting he whs converted and v\ ent to preaching and has been a faithful minister of the gospel ever since and the instrument in God's hands of the conversion of thousands, for it has been almost a constant revival under his miuistery since that time. At that same meeting there was a child converted only eight years old and rather tiniiil. She was helped on to a seat where for some time she talked about re- ligion and the love of '. iod in the soul until all who heard her were astonished at her wisdom in view of her tender years. Also there was a young lady who was engaged to be married who became insensible and many thought she was going to die. Her lover went for the doctor and wheij he came he said it would take a higher power than him to do anything with a case of that kind. She lay there, perhaps, two hours, and such was the interest SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 05 in her condition that the services ceased, only a song was sung" occjisionally. Finally she showed signs of life and it was only a moment until she could tell how happy a soul was with Jesus formed in the hope of glory. The doctor was a good, religious man and a member of the Baptist church and when she commence talking, he said, "1 knew it would all be right." CHAPTER XX. Now it is 18(52 and April 10th has arrived, the day set for the departure of a company of men for the northern mines and as the country is greatly agitated about the civil war it seems to be a favorable time to try the for- tune in the gold fields. When one has woiked for tlie public until debts accumulate then he had better work for himself awhile and try to gain a little of the world's goods and pay up, rntlier than be regarded as either ear- less or negligent about paying his just liabilities. We left the beautiful valley of Sonoma and determined to cross the country to the Powder river mines in east- ern Oregon, in preference to going by water to the Dalles and then overland. And now it will be necessary to take the reader over another range of mountains ditfer- ing considerably from either the Rocky Mountains or the Cascades, although there is a similarity in all moun- tain ranges. We traveled up the Sacramento river by way of Red Bluff and found excellent grass all the way. In almost all companies of men there is sure to be at least one who is a fine talker and takes great delight in exhibiting his loquacious talent to his traveling com- 9(> SCKNES OF EARIItR DATS. l)anions. We hud one of this kiiiidtlle and when one end tired try the other. Ke was well inroiraed, or at least coidd talk about any siibjet^t which ntiglit Re- named, and he delight d in telling what he knew ind he coidd do it to ver}' good advantage. He had but littln force of character and very often intruded himself on un- willing listeners. Talk he would and take he did and it seemed like you u)ight as well trj^ to dam up the Sacia- mento river in time of a flood as to check the onward current which came from him, for it seqmed to pour from him as naturally as water in a swift current, for difficulties did not slop him and if he haj)i)ened to rest awhile it was only to gather j-trength tor an onward flight of oratory When awake he talked ahnost incess- aiitlv, and certainly a man who could keep uj) such a rapid incessant roar must have spent most of the night in thinking what to say the next day. He was one of the kind who did not repeat what he had said before but seemed to have a fresh supply for each day as we jour- neyed on. One daj' we tarried for noon in a most beau- tiful meadow and after lunch had been disposed of and while our horses were eiting, this talkative man cam? where 1 was. 1 was sitting on the grass in a ver}' com- fortable frame of mind when he came and threw himself down at full length, with his head resting in my lap, and looking up at me as innocent as a child and asked, "Parson what do you think of me anyhow." "I think you are a regular gaspipe," 1 rephed. This only seemed to be the means o. loosening his SCENLS OF KAKLIEU DAYS, !•' 4-on^ue ami of .spuriiiy liiiii lutu greater activity timu ever. "Gaspipe, " said lie, "i am glad you said it, for then; is uo hujuaii iiivention that is much more useful than a gaspipe. W'lieu the city is wrapt in tlie sable shades of night and neither moon or stars to give light to the in- habitants then the gas comes along silently in the pipe until it reaches the pro2)er })lace when it 1>umis and thiows oat a beautiful light, saving the pedestrians from harm. Then look how that cottage is lit up affording the inmates great pleasure in reading. But come again to your beautiful mansion and see its magniticent parlor lighted up too with gas. l:<'ather, mother, a son and a daughter are there enjoying the evening as only families can, when a ^ouug man, neatly clad and m whose looks tales of love can be read, enters aiul takes a seat with the group. The i^arents and the son soon retire and leave the two young people to themselves, ihere in the light afforded l)y that gaspipe he whispers words of love into her ears and could you peep in you would see two intense lovers enjoying that which Hows Irom that light ne gets a little nearer to her for he wants to ask her a very important question and not too loudly for fear some one migiit be listening. iJis heart flutters and he al- most pants for breath but after awhile his neives become a little steadier and his courage assumes a tinner hold and he asks, 'do you love me enough to become a life partnei? Will you be mineV ' Novv his hea^it beats faster than ever while she hesitates for a moment and the crim- son tide rushes to her cheeks, but she finally says, '3'es, 1 will be yours.' Oh such wonderful happiness, such {)8 SCENES OF EARLIEE DATS joy, sucli delightful ecstasy, and all the result of the gas- pipe." "Again," said he, "let us go to the hoube of the Lord where an elequent divine is preaching God's eternal truth, let us enter, how beautiful the light is here and it all conies from the gaspipe. See that innnense congre- gation of worshipers as they sing the songs of Zion until divine melody fills the room. See the man of (iod as he rises with a solemn countenance and reads the word of the Lord and then says, 'Lot us pray.' His prayer is soul-inspiring and when it concludes the congregation feels nearer heaven and that they are where Jesus is. Look at him as he stands thei'e the very messenger of heaven, sent to tell men how to be reconciled to God. See how intently they listen so as not to miss any of the words he utters. He speaks of life and its responsibities, the dangers of delay, that now is the accepted time and the day of salvation Look again, some have accepted the invitation and now see the angels oa joyful wings making their way to the celestial hills to tell that the 'dead is alive and the lost is found.' " By this time the entire co:iipany has come near enough to listen, when 1 called out: "Hold! hold I am badly beaten and certainly I will never call any one else a gas- pipe, unless 1 think he is very useful to his fellow men." The company all roared with laughter at my expense and said, "well, the Parson acknowledges he is beat for once." This incident afforded more or less sport for the company for hours to come. Such scenes as I have here SCENES OF EAilUElt UAVS. It St ilfsfiibwl helps \en juucli to bzeak the moiiotoiiv of u tedious jouriiev and to drive away the bhies. OHAPTEU XXI, In our truvels we passed the town of lieddiiii;' \vhicli •was then a siu.dl vilhige eorisistin<^- of a Wacksniith shop, a hotel and a saloon, with but few dwellings. When we cauie to the mouth of Pitt river where it empties into the :~ac»amento we went up the former stream. In going on the old emigrant road up this stream we sometimes found ])itts dug, the work of Indians in former days. They would dig them and then cover them over so they could not be told from the .L:round surrounding them. Their original plan was to diive a stake in these pits and sliaipen the upper end so that if and elk or deei or bear came along the trail it would fall on this pointed stick, or then if any of the hoises of the Hudson bay company came along and fell on one of these sticks it would re- joice the hearts of the Indians, for then they knew they would have meat for days to come. The Hudson bay company used to be in that country trap ping. One day as we passed along, not suspecting any liarm, an Irishman found one of these pits to his sorrow for his horse fell into it and his legs were wedged fast between the sides of the pit and the animal, until he could not help himself. It was really comical to look at his disturbed face. For once Pat was badly frightened for he did not know what was in the pit. As soon as he had sufficientlv recovered from his fraht to talk he 100 SCENES OF EARLIEK DAYS called out, "Gintlemen, will ye ones stand by and see a niann die and niver attempt to help a divil of a bit." It was only a few moments until men with shovels went to work and relieved him of his distress and he went on his wa}' declaring "That any human beings who would dig such places ought to have vengeance meeted out to them, and then to cover them over so as to catch a poor Irishman going to the mines to make his fortune so as to support his wife and babies in a dacent manner. Wy, gintlemen, it is a great wonder that I had not been kilt outright and buried in one of them. Jt is too bad on- tirely, so it is." One night when we were camped on Pitt river the snow fell about six inches in depth, and those who had no tent to sleep in but only a blanket stretched over their heads, found in the morning that they had slept unusually warm. That morning we waited until the snow melted away and it was about noon before we re- sumed our journey. Some of the men, including the captain of our company who was an old Rocky Moun- tain trapper and used to Indians, concluded they would go out on a hunt. The captain had a desire to see whether the men woidd figlit if they were to get into a dangerous place. He stationed himself behind a tree and acted the Indian, both in word and gesture. Finally some of the njen saw him and drew their guns and fired, hitting the tree, but the captain had gone on the oi)po- site side and was safe. After they had all got back to camp he told it and then added, 'you will do to depend on if we should get into a battle." As we went onward a few miles there was a large bodv SCENES OF EAULIEB DAYS. 101 of smoke which wonkl puff up and tlien uns and see that they are in the best possible condition for shootinj>-, for we are liable to have a light most any time." We all halted and fixed our weapons for war. We were traveling up a rather narrow valley on the river witli towering mountains on either hand and every man was on the sharp lookout for fear of an attrtck. Some of the men were actually pale with fear and as 1 hiid no looking glass cannot tell how pale 1 was. No doubt all hearts beat faster, but with all of our timidity we kept marching forward with gun in hand ready to shoot any Indian who might be in that part of the country. W'e kept very still for fear we might wake some slumberino- savages Avhen, to our astonishment, we came to a very large boiling hot spring and found that it had been the cause of our alarm. It was about twenty-live feet in diameter and without any bottom so far as we could see. There was quite a large creek running from it and theie was no vegetation growing for several rods on either side. There must have been a very hot region below that spring for their was sufficient heat in the waters to cook with. After passing to the head of Pitt river, which in reality we found to be a large, beautiful sheet of water called Goose lake, we passed on and beyond the Sierra NeA'ada mountains keeping up the lake and not turning to the right over a high mountain as the emigrant road did. 102 .eautiful oountiy borderinj^" on this la' e and after we passed the head of it we found a streaiu w'hich was called Eagle creek. It was f>;reatlj swollen from the melting snows but we selected a narrow phu.-e and felled some trees and built a temporary bridge and passed over ill safety, with the exception of one small mule, and it fell into the water^ lost its pack, swam down stream nearly a mile and theh landed, coming out on the side we wanted it too and came back in a great hurry to- the company, braying- at every jump. When it returned it was interesting to watch its expressions of joy as it ran from one animal to another until it found the ])articular ones with which it had been traveling, when it sudilenjy became satisfied. Beyond this creek we camjied in a junijier grove, some of the timljer l:)eing dead We wanted some dry wood for camp fires and one man took bis axe and commenced chopping down a tree, when to his great amazement a bunch of something, which had been wound up in a l)lanket, came tumbling do>.Mi at his feet. For a few- moments he was as nervous as Pat was down on Pitt river and immediately ceased chopping and ran away from it. Finally he was told by our captain, as well as some others, that it was the custom of some of the In- dian tribes to roll their dead in as small a compass as possible and put them in the tree tops and tie them fast there with ropes made of grass. The rope had rotted and the jarring of the tree had thrown it down. We did not unwrap the skeleton, neither did we place it back in the tree. The man soon found there was no danger of the dead Indian shooting him and proceeded to cut the ■SCKNES OF EARLIER DAYS, KUJ tree down. We found good water and gx)od timber Ix^th very scarce in that portion of Oregon. After we had crossed some streams and came to some mountains we found w(X)d in abundance and good water and some appear- ance of g^old. but not enough to justify us in stopping very long, for the Indians were troublesome in tliat part of the country. On our way to Powder river we passed through the John Day country where we saw indications of gold and which afterw ards developed into a very good mining camp. It was there that 1 panned luy tirst pan of dirt in search of gold in the presence of two old Cali- fornia niiners who made all manner of sport of my awk- wardness. But when I got through with it and they saw I had about rive cents worth of the yellow metal they went to work with a will, even if they had been shaking with laughter a few moments before at my expense. From the Indian signs in that pint of the country we concluded that we had better move on to Powder river the land we had in view when we started from home. When we arrived at Auburn, a small village in that country, the first thing that arrested our attention was a sign over a saloon, not but what signs over saloon doors were very common, but this one was not common but very uncommon and one 1 had never seen before. "Mount Diabolo" in very large letters which had evi- dently been placed there by some Oregon man who did not understand the meaning of those two very signifi- cant words, for had he searched the dictionary thorough- ly he certainly ( ould not have found a more apin-oj^riate name. 104 SCENKb' Cfh' EXRLTEH VAYS> The Hist Sunday after our arrivil I preaclied muTer a larg-e pine tree. There \¥as tlio^n^'lit Co be abcHit r>()()> present and with all that number th^-ir was only one- lady, the wife of a Baptist niimster, Tliis seenied veiy odd and yet it was no uncammon occorence in the early days of nnuiug in California. Tbsre is oise tlnnj^' that i think all nrinisters have noticed who have preached in the mines, and tliat is as a rule men are oiderly and well behaved, even if but few ladies do- attend, showing- that the men can have <^o<>d order without them. Duriryg the summer and fall of lS(i2 alarjjjeemijjrationi made their way across the plains from the western states, and many found th(;ir way into the Powder river minesv so that durinj^' the followin<>- winter Aulnirn had quite a large popidation foi- a mining camp- All the houses were built of logs, as there was no saw mill neir there at the time. Among the emigrants who came xvere four young men messmates from Colorado and one of their number was a Frenchman, a blacksmith by trade. He hired the other three, who '.\eie the owners of the wagon and team, to bring him and his tools to Powder river for the sum of $100, ^^ hen they were at their journey's end he refused to pay them, according to contract, and thev wanted to leave it to three disinterested men and let them decide what was right Before they did this all four went out prospecting one day and in the afternoon the Frenchman, who returned tirst, took some Hour from a sack, cooked it and ate his dinner and went awa}' among some friends, .\fter tinishin ; his meal he put the contents of a vial of strychnine into the sack and carelessly dropped the vial near by. It so happened SCli^ES V)F liAKLlElt liAYS, lOB that a lady who was caiiijM'cl near them saw all the iiiove- •iiients of the Frenchman but at the time th(Mii>-ht but little, i. anythiiifi;', alxnit the matter as she was busy with her own work When the three returned they all came together and the lady of whcMii 1 speak was absent from her camp and did not see them return. Being very iuingrv they commenced frying pancakes or as the min- ers call them. Ha j.icks, and to eat quite greedily for it was well along in tlie afternoon and they had not eaten anything since early bteakf.ist. All of them partook of the first cake fried, when one of them said, "Boys, there is something wrcuig with this flour." When the second cake was cooked a portion of it was given to their dog and he very soon went into spasms. It was but a little while until all three men were very sick and two of them died in a short time. The doctors w^orked with the third man the best they could and finally saved him from death. Such news as this soon spread through the en- tire mining region and brought together a number of people and among those who came was Judge Carver, who was engaged with Messrs. Barlow and Rector in viewing out the Barlow road across the Cascade Moun- tains into western Oregon, who was at the scene among the first. It was very plainly to be seen that they had been poisoned by some means. The lady mentioned above said she saw the Frenchman put something into a sack of flour from a vial and then drop it on the ground near by and she believed if they would search for the vial they would soon find it. The search was made, the vial found branded strychnine with a grain of the deadly drug still in it. The I renchman was pointed out and loir SCEJfEK' or EASLtBK I>\V'Sv immediately taken into custody by a man appointed them and there for that purpose. That night there was a mass meeting by the miners called to see what was best to be done. Judge Carver was elected chairman and by his counsel a sheriif was chosen, who proved to be the man who first took charge of the Frenchman, It was decided to appoint three judges and twelve jurymen to try him, as there was no county organization there and it was several hundred miles to the nearest county town. Judge Carver was appointed presiding officer. A regular licensed lawyer took charge of the case for the people and also one for the prisoner. The most important witness was the man poisoned, but not dead, and the court adjourned from day to day until he Avas able to attend. Finally the trial l>egan, which caused a large audience to assem- ble at the appointed time. After three days of fair and impartial trial, and as civil as though it had been a regularly organized court, the case was given to the jury who soon brought in a verdict of murder in the tirst degree. The presiding judge pronounced sentence in a very appropriate and solemn manner and then set the day and the hour for his exe- cution. Among the miners I never lieard a doubt exj^res.sed about the condemned man's guilt, but all said he ought to hang. 'I he Frenchman was a Catholic but as there was no priest in that part of the country I had to offici- ate for him as best I could. The night before his exe- cution 1 went into the jail and talked to him until mid- night and ate supper with him. I talked to him about SCENES OF EARLIEH UAYS. 107 his pi-epanitioii for the future ami that if he was yuilty he ou^ht to confess it and not keep denying it as he had done, tliat no one who did not tell the truth could ever enter that goodly land. 1 had to talk to him altogether through the aid of an enterpreter and whether he eiiter- preted right or not 1 had no means of knowing for I was not acquainted with the French language. According to the interpreter I did not succeed in convincing him that he had ever done any thing wrong in his life, although it was said that he had shot one man in ^ olo- rado. The morning the execution took place was a beautiful one and the criminal refused to ride on his coffin but preferred to walk behind it. He was executed on a high hill near town so that all who wanted too could witness the scene. There was a large number of people present. '1 he hardest task 1 ever had in religious matters was to go on to the scaffold and offer prayer for the condemned man. After he was placed on the trap he was asked if he had anything to say and to his interpreter he s;iid, so he reported. "Tell all the people I am going to die an innocent man. Write to my father and mother in France that 1 am innocent." I offered prayer for him and at its close he handed me a gold watch, but I did not keep it long as it reminded me every time I took it from my pocket of the poor fellow hanging between heaven and earth. At the ap- pointed time the cap was drawn, the rope adjusted and he fell and the only sign of life visible after his fall was the moving of one finger very slightly. 108 SCENES OF EAKLrSK VXYS. CHAPTER XXn. The two 3^ears 1 was in the Powder river mines 1 lield regular religimis services morning and evening as a gen- eral rule. Mining through the week, when the weather would permit, and then preaching twice on the sabbath was hard work but I enjoyed it and the people seemed to appreciate it. Besides this work I took turns with others in publishing a monthly paper in manuscript form during the winter The way the people obtained the news was to appoint a night for its reading, when large congregations would assemble and the editors would read the contents. This was a good many years ago but I believe the paper was named the Auburn News, in honor of the town in which it was published. 1 have often wished since that time th it I had preserved a copy of it as a kind of literary turiosity of that day. It was frequently' the case during the winter that men traveled forty miles on their snow shoes to listen to the reading, which occupied from one-half to two hours and yet they did not seem to tire or even grow restless. The paper contained articles on almost every subject, political, religious, mining matters and witticisms. The fun de- partment was scattered all through the paper and seemed to keep up the interest when it was read. There were some excellent articles on the Whitman massacre, and probably the next article would be a Dutchman's court- ing adventure in western Oregon which would make all hands roar with laughter. Then there might be a good article on the old subject of temperance, followed by a description of the antics of a drunkard as he wiggled SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. J OF) and staggered on his way home. The night the jjaper was to be read was known generally over the nn'ning region and the only trouble was to secure a hall laro-e enough to hold the people. Wedding notices, of eours°e came m for a full share and the notices were very elabo' rate. Once 1 went about twelve miles to marry a couple and although there were sixty present none knew of the wedding save the bride and groom and the bride's par- ents and a brother of the groom, but all had come dressed in common clothing to engage, as they supposed, in an old-fashioned candy pulling. All the ladies were dressed in plain calico, not expecting what was to take place. The bride and groom and the parents met in another house not far from the one where the guests were assem^ bled and we all marched there with the couple to be married in front and as soon as they stepped into the room a few feet they turned round facing me and I went to saying the ceremony and they were soon united in marriage. Those assembled were greatly astonished except the few who knew of the secret. One young lady declared afterwards that she did not catch her brealh for at least five minutes. This incident was all written up in good style for the paper by an old writer and editor and when it was read there was one volley of applause after another. It was too cold and the snow too deep for placer min- ing, which was the only mining done at that time, and such scenes as I have been descu-ibing greatly assisted in helping to pass away the long, tedious winter evenings Through the day there was fun, any amount of it, run- ning on snow shoes and this sport the Parson enjoyed 110 SCENES OF EARLIEK DAYS. as well as the rest. Some men made saloons their chief resort and played cards and drank whiskey, for the two seemed to be twin brothers, and thereby many young men were led astray and made to travel a downward path. One day I wanted to get a book from the circulating library and had to go into a saloon to obtain it. Just as I stepped in the sheriff and judge with some others went to the bar for a drink and the saloon keeper said, "come, parson, have a drink with us and show yourself social for you have never tasted liquor since you came among us." "You know, Mr. W.," I replied "If 1 should walk up to that bar and take a drink with you men that the re- spect you have for me as a minister of Christ would all vanish in a moment and you would be ready to say you never wanted me to preach to you again for you are not tit for such work." "Parson," said the saloon keeper, "hold on until I give these men their drams and then 1 will talk to you." After they had drank and passed out he came and seated himself by my side and said, "at home I did not follow this business but had a store where no liquor was sold and I was a class leader in the Methodist church and 1 thought 1 enjoyed those meetings as much as any one, but 1 was raised in the belief that 1 could get re- ligion, as some term it, and then lose it again. When I came here I found no opening for making money but this and I did not like it and am determined to quit as soon as my stock of liquors is exhausted. ' The cause of our alarm. — page 101. ll'i SCENES OF EARLIER DAT* I said to him, "you had better quit now for fear 3'oiH juight not live that long/' "Oh, 1 am not going- to die in nn' i)reseiit calling but you will see me reform before long." "You have a hall above your saloon," said I, "wilJ you let me have it for church purposes'?" "Yes," was the prompt reply, "you ma}- have it free of rent and I will furnish the fuel, u)ake the fires and keep it well lighted and swe|jt." He kept his word faithfully as long as we had the use of the hull but it soon proveS1"2. This esteemed couple had an abundance of the world's goods and were ever ready with both heart and hand to assist the worthy poor and do good as they had opportunity. They were regular SCENES OF EAKLIEU DAVS. 127 atteiulauts ou religious worship iii the town and gave liberally of their means to support it. In fact, they were the niiiin su})i«)rts of their pastor in carrying on the work of tho ehnrc^h. There was a prosperous colle'>-e in the town, founded and carried on by tlie same religious denomination of which they were members, and Mr. Miller was one of its trustees and m:iin supports fi- nancially. Many young men have been educated there who were useful as minister's and many more have gone forth as politicial leaders in the state. Our own state of California was blessed in its earlier history by the good influence of one who graduated from that school and was at the time of his death at the head of a theological seminary, it was in the midst of these nice surround- ings and in the beautiful mansion on the hill that the hero of my story, a Mr. Miller, had his birth and was reared to nianhood. If a beautiful spot of earth and noble parentage could make men useful and refined, then Mr. M. ought to have shone as a star of the first magnitude and have been one of the very best o: men. He attended the district school until he was old enough and far enough advanced to enter college. After entering college, being naturally possessed of a brilliant mind, he made very rapid ad- vancement and was a great favorite of the professors and of his schoolmates and the community generally. His conduct was exemplary and his parents and friends had great hopes that his future would be bright and his sun- set without a single cloud to overshadow it. At last the day of his graduation came and he stood at the head of his class honored and respected by all. His mother's 1"2S SCIJNES OF KAKLIEK DAYS. lieart hounded for joy when she saw the position lie had nobly earned and hoped he would be a strong- prop on \vh(^m she could lean for her support in lier declining days. Near the time of his graduation there was a lovely young lady who graduated from the same school. She too was of an excellent family and a leader among her schoolmates and a bright scholar as well as one greatly- admired by all who knew her. Mr. M. had been ac- quainted with her from childhood, for she had lived on a farm with her parents iiear wliere he resided. When children they had gambled over the blue grass meadows together enjoying their innocent childhood sports. He made proposals of marriage to her and was ac- cepted. The day for the ceremony was set, and at the appointed hour a happy company assembled and spoke of the marriage as an excellent oue. The minister, who had long been their i:)astor, spoke the solemn words which made them husband and wife. His father gave them a good farm with a neat cottage on it, where they lived as happy and contented as heart could wish. Not a single shadow had as yet crossed their threshold and to them was born a lovely child who was the joy of their lives. Adjoining their farm lived a man who had always proved to be a very troublesome neighbor and delighted in (quarreling and back biting Nothing seemed to please him better than to see one neighbor arrayed against an- other and if it proved to be a deadly conflict it seemed to suit him all the better. His friends were few, if any, SCENES OF EAKLIEH DAYS. 1 2i> niid the eornniunity would have preferred that he move into some howling wilderness for a home. He was cross and morose and with it all very overbearing in his dis- position. He was very poor and jealous of the pi'osperi- ty of the rich above him. Jn fact a more unhappy, r the home of her cliildhood with its (jiiiet Sunchiys and times of rest. Her husband soon discovered her great dissatisfaction and how unha})])y she was g(t- tiiig to be and knew very well the cause of it, when he said to her, "'1 will furnisli you with $50(10 and i)ay your expenses back home if you wish to go." It was mutually agreed that it would be the best for her to go where she could educate their child and raise him in good society. He went with her to the city and saw her safely aboard the vessel with their lovely little boy. Farewell caresses and blessings were exchanged and she turned her face towards her old Kentucdcy honje and he toward his niountain dwelling. He sold his mining (daim and devoted his entire ener- gies to his ditch, for he was elected superintendent. It was the winter after his wife left which ])roved so dis- astrous to the investment he had made. He saw the raging Hoods tear away a great deal of the banks from his ditch and the heavy winds blow down his Humes and tressle works, in fact he saw the entire ruin, financially, of his company. From that tiuje on he did not ])rove the hero he had been in forujer days, but his courage seemed to forsake him utterly and he let (natters drift along very carelessh". Finally in his time of weakness and want of courage he could be seen occisionally about saloons, not drinking at first but only looking on as a mere s])ectator. Before 132 SCENES OF EAKLIER DAYS. this he had stood aloft from such places, knowing the evil found there, but now he commenced by little to yield and would take a dram occasionally to drown his sorrows. He had a little money left from his financial wreck and the rum power knew it and they determined to secure it at all hazards. At the time he wanted moral support the most he found himself surrounded by all that was profane and immoral and that only tended to his speedier downfall and utter ruin. He drank heavily for several years, until, from a strong robust man with great strength, he was reduced to a mere skeleton. Finally some of his frieiuls who had known him in his prosperous days proposed to help him if he would go with them to the Powder river mines, for he had now spent all his money and was living on charity such as it was. They hoped when he would get away from his old associates and get where there was no liquor sold he would reform and be a stalwart man again and trample his enemy under his feet and stand erect as a man among men. Between California and the mines there were no saloons and, of course, he could not drink only as some one would give it to him. As soon as he arrived in the mines he saw the signifficent sign "Mount Diabolo," and with all the warning given from that sign he made his Avay thither and had an "eye opener." It was in these mines that I made his accjuaintanceand under rather i)eculiar circumstances. A man had erected a two story building, and the lower portion he used for a dwelling and a saloon. The front part was occupied with the saloon and the back portioii for the dwelling. The upper story was used as a hall in which church and SCENES OF EARLIER DAYS. 133 oourt was botli held. I had the use of this hall Sabbaths ill which to preach. At the (rlose of the services the first Sunday I occu})ied it, the saloon keeper and his wife in- vited me to dine with them, and, as I was "batching" I gladly accepted the invitation. It was during this meal time that I formed the acquaintance of this Mr. Miller and observed his gentlemanly bearing. The owner of the saloon sat opposite to me at the table and remarked, "that he must be in something of a hurry today as he had to attend bar while his bartender came to dinner."' He soon tinished his meal and excused himself. A few moments after he passed out a fine looking man with gentlemanly bearing came in. He was tall and erect, showing by his movements that he had been well ruised, although is was plainly to be seen that he was drinking. Is it not very singular how soon liquor be- gins to show itself on the drinker's nose and that he soon carries about with him a mark as distinct as Cain's. After the lady of the house had introduced us and re- tired, he said: "Parson 1 have not always been as you see me today, selling whiskey and not only selling it but drinking it, but once 1 was a regular attendant at church and enjoyed its servives. In an evil hour I gave way and my constitution is ruined by strong drink to such an extent that I am no longer able to do hard work. If I could obtain a situation where I would not have to labor very hard 1 would quit this business at once and forever, for I know it is wrong to sell that which has proven my ruin as well as the ruin of thousands." He still continued the conversation and said: "There l:?4 SCENES OF KAULIKlt DAYS. was !i tiiDc in Califoriiiii wlien 1 considered myself to be worth between $80,000 and $100,000 tuid I invested the Lirger share of it in a mining ditch and Humes, wliieh were ruined by the winter's storms and 1 was, to use a miner's })hrase, "broke." He tokl me hegaduated from a college near his father's home and that he married as nice a young lady as ever graduated from any school. "But, ' said he, as the tears tilled his eyes, "1 have disgraced it all and I am a moral wreck and a wretched drunkard, allowing my ap- l)etite to control me. By my drinking I have brought disgrace, not only on my parents and old friends, i)ut also on her whom I swore at the altar to protect and de- fend, as well as on my darling boy. They are back at the old home and I am glad of it, while I am here a poor, miserable man almost ready to die." 1 asked him if he had not courage and manliood enough left to reform and l)e a useful man. "No," said he, "never as long as I have to sell liquor to earn my bread and butter. If any one had told me I would ever get so low as to stand behind a bar and sell liquor in the room below, while a minister was preaching in the room above, 1 never Avonld have be- lieved it fifteen years ago, but such is the fact today. He continued as bartender at that saloon for some time, but finally got to drinking so much that he was dismissed. His money was soon gone and he obtained his meals, at least the most of them, by begging them from the miners. He went into Powder river valley and lived for a time among a farming community 1 was away from the camp for some time and did not know SCKNES OF KAKLIKK DAYS. 1 IJ") what liiul bcM-oiiic ot' liiin. One day in November I met him in the road, but he had changed so much 1 scarcely knew him. He was so weak that it was with great difiH- cnlty tliat he could walk. He said he was broke and did not know what would become of him; he supposed some one would bury him when he died and that was not going- to be long. With the very deepest emotion, hearing his bosom, he cried out, "Oh, Parson, can von not do something for a poor, unfortunate wretch like me." He was going towards town and I was going from it. I told liiiii to go on and when I returned 1 would see what coukl be done for him. When I came back 1 went to see a family whom i had known from my bov- liood days, and it so hap])ened that the husband had know^n the father of the unfortunate man in Kentuckv. 1 soon made arrangements with them to care for him while he lived, which at the farthest would only be a few days, and 1 w'ould make the best effort I could to rsise money to pay them for their trouble, agreeing, if I could secure the monej' , they should have at least $3 a dav for their trouble. I assisted him to his new home, which was with Flev. N. Johnson's family, the man who thought to add "tifteen years to his life by going to Oregon.'" He seemed very grateful for what 1 had done and very penitent for the life he had led. One da^^ 1 visited him late in the afternoon and saw that he was very near his eternal home, and concluded the best time to get money for him was while he was yet alive. I w'ent to town (which was about a half mile away) as soon as I 136 SCKNES OF l,AUUKl£ DAYS. could and drew up a subscniptiou paper and visited all the stores and saloons. I soon had money sufficient to ])ay for tukiji<>' care of him and to bury hinj decently, hut in a very plain manner as all who died in the mines were. While I was visiting the last saloon in search of money a gentleman came in and said he had just died and that it would be necessary to bury him the next day. He died from consumption and rotten whiskey and al- though the weather was cool is was thought best to bury him quickly, for it was even difficult for the family to re- main in the room where he was laid out and houses there had but one room as a rule. It might be said that families were only camping and expected to move on in the spring. In the spring this family left and I have never seen theni since. The next day it was snowing and blowing and very cold, it being about the middle of November, 1863. The coffin and <,'rave were ready about 4 o'clock and his remains were borne to their last resting place by the hands of his friends. The grave was on a rising- piece of ground about one- fourth of a mile southeast of Auburn. There we left him in the care of one who watches over our dust till he shall bid it rise. This was the closing scene in the career of one naturally bright and intelligent and who had at times noble impulses but gave way in the hour of temptation and went on down, down, until at last he filled a drunkard's grave and had to be laid away by strange hands. What I have related in the forgoing story is the truth for after his death his papers were examined and man}' of the facts here related concerning him were learned through them These SCENliS OF KAIUJKH DAYS 187 liapertj weie forwarded to his old lioiiie in the east, to- gether with tlie acc(juiit of his last days and of his burial. CHAPTER XXVI. In June, ISGI, 1 concluded to bid the mines farewell and return to niv California home, having- been absent jnore than two years. There were three of us who left Powder river on horseback. We ciossed Burnt river at the old emigrant road where I had crossed in 1^51. We followed up this road until we came to one turning to the right, just above a very hot s])ring a few hundred yards from our road, and going on this road it led us into the gold and silver mines of Owyhee. Near these hot springs we saw where the lightning had struck an ox team and instantly killed three out of four of them. They were left in their tracks, a great scare-crow for horses. After passing beyond this spring and partly round it we commenced to ascend a very high hill, in fact it might be called a mountain for it was the dividing ridge between two rivers. On the summit of this ridge v^'e met two men on horseback, when one of them said, "How are you. Parson? I am glad to see you fori have been owing you a bill for more than a year and I want to pay it. I was afraid you would leave this part of the country without me seeing you at all." "You must be mistaken," 1 replied. "No,"' said he, "I am not, for you married me and I have never paid you for it. Come, get down and let me 138 SCENES bv EARLIEH DAYS. rid my conscience of that oldt mountains and commenced goin^' down a - a storm that had ruined his business and broken his bottles of rum. Beh)\v the house, perhaps a hundred and fifty yards, the hills closed in forming a wall on each side of the creek while the only road throui^h that mountain gorge was down this stream which had so lately been nothing but a dry gulch. Had we entered that canyon just before that storm we would have lost our wagon and team if not our own lives, for the waters rose fifteen or twenty feet in height leaving its mark on the rocky walls. The flood rolled large rocks out on to the Humboldt tiat that must have weighed several tons. There was a man who kept a hotel about one and a half miles below us and he had jjlanted a garden, which, he said, had came up and w-as growing finely, but the storm had swept garden and soil into the river leaving him the rocks on which to plant another garden. I was in the signal service office at W^ashingtoTi city in 1H73 and spoke of this storm and old "probabilities" told lue that it was the second time that wagon tires blazed with electricity and the occupants of the wagon spared so far as reported to them. We passed through Virginia and Carson cities and went over the mountains on the Placerville road. Near the summit of the Sierra Nevadas we met the stage run- ning on a bet of $10,000 against the Dutch Fat stage. It was expected this drive would settle the route of the Central Pacific railroad. The Placerville stage beat the other several hours and when we met them they had four horses, two drivers and no passengers. They killed several horses on the trip but it is well known that Dutch SCKNES OF EAHLIEU DAYS. 141 Flat yot the roiul. In connection «itb this wonflcrful display of nature 1 want, before I close this chapter, to speak of some other scenes tliat I have witnessed on this coast. A few years ago we were on our way home, after attending church in the city of Petaluma, one beautiful Sabbath day. We had gained the summit of a small hill near where Mr. Seymour lives, when we witnessed, not a scene of terror but one of beauty sucli as 1 never expect to see again. Beyond us, but near enough to be in plain view was the commencement of the waters of the great ocean, as blue and beautiful as anyone ever saw them. The waters covered an expanse east and west and north of us as far as the eye could reach. Not only were the waters blue but their borders carpeted with green grass which added to the beauty of the scene before us Out in the direction of Stony Point vessels could be seen with sails all S])read to catch the winds which at the time were blowing very gently. They seemed to be moving very quietly before the breeze. In the midst of this vast expanse of water large rocks reared their massive heads far above the sur- face and the breakers were rolling and tumbling and throwing their foam high in the air. There was not a tree or a shrub of the many groves belonging to Mr. Mecham to be seen,, but all in that direction was the blue ocean with its rocks, vessels and breakers. Anv one who has traveled up the coast h;is seen scenes such as I have just dasci'il)ed if h ■ \v,is near enough the bord- ers of the ocean to look on it, but this was the first time 1 ever saw the ocean pictured on dry ground. Some of my readers may conclude that what 1 have here described 142 SCi'.NES OF l.AKLIKK DAYS. are only the iiua'^iiiiiio's of 80me old crank who wants to <;ive sonicthino- new for the world to think about. I know what I saw and there were two women and two children wlio saw the same scenes. I once had a talk with a sea captain, who had sailed m Alaska waters, and he told me that he had often seen large cities with their cathedrals and churches and immense business blocks pictured when they were thousands of miles from any city. How such pictures are made 1 shall not attem[)t to tell but will leave that to men of scientific pursuits and attainments. Those who have crossed the plains to this ])ortion of our country will remember the hikes they thou<^ht they saw on ahead and when they advanced found nothing' but an alkali desert. I I'einember once in 185S going from Stockton to Saii Ramos valley in Conti'a Costa county in my buggy. After (grossing the >au .Ioa([uin river and advancing a mile or more on the l)lains I looked ahead, and, as I thought, saw a band of armed men coming. .\t the time there were places in California where the rougher element of the Spanish race was very troublesome to travelers and of course my mind cau;.ht on that thought first. There was no chance to back out for they would overtake me before 1 could recross the river on the ferry boat. There was no house in sight on that side and it was twelve miles ahead to the first dwelling. All I could do was to [)ress on and risk the consequences. Sometimes when people are fright- ened they say their hearts are in their mouths, and ii anything of tlu; kind ever did take place it did with me that morning. But on I went, although my heart beat fast, and when 1 came uj) to them I found a band of SCENES OF KAKLIKH DAYS. 143 Spanish cattle that hud been on the [)hiins feeding and were then going to tlie river for water. Spanish cattle then were sometimes as bad as Spanish men for they frequently chased those who rode in buggies for miles. I felt very much relieved when the cattle passed me without interruption. There seemed to be at least two kinds of mirage, one which throws its pictures on land, while the other lifts objects up and presents them in a very unnatural position. The one I saw near Petaluma was of the tirst kind and by far, 1 think, the most beau- tiful. This picture will never be erased froni my mind while I live. CHAPTER XX /II. Well, here we are, back in California again, and glad of it for it is the largest state in the union for its size. Has the largest trees in the world and immense water falls. Large canals for irrigating purposes and large colleges in which to educate the youth of our land. Large mountains and large men of large brain and large enterprise. Large, tine-looking women and handsome children. It is large and generous in climate, large in fruits and oranges, and, as a rule, large-hearted people live within its borders. It is large and has been for many years in the number that needed it and ought to be hung. It is large in its jiublic schools and its qualifi- cations for teaching. It has large cathedrals and churches, large ministers who get wise above what is written, that is a few of them. They even make large assertions and deny a portion of the old Bible which has joroved a firm 144 SCENES OF EAKLIEK DAYS. foiimlation for nations as well as individuals. Not only these things but we liave very lar<,'-e saloons and very large drinkers who look like bloated swill tubs. We have large cattle and large hogs and large horses. Some men do business in such a large way that the ovei'How is loo niucli for thcni and they ruin themselves Hnancially. But in the midst of this country of large things there is a large amount of moral and religious work to be done and let Un look around a little as we are now back home and see what we can do to help these things along. One man says, "Parson are you not discouraged to see such slow progress?" Bv no means; if the cause is God's men may do their best against the Bible and against the cause it advocates and they will stand firmer thriu the mountains which are our eastern boundray. It took ouinijjotence (juite a while to make a world and then make it as be;iutiful as it is with fruits and trees and Howers. It was many a century after the promise of a Savior until he came to make known God's will to man and to make atonement for our last race. It will take time to redeem the world and cause it to cry out, "The Lord God omninortent reigneth." But it is coming just as sure as God lives for he has promised it in his word, "For all shall know me, from tli»' least to the greatest." Let us then look around and sec where we can bear a little part in l)ettering the world's condition. Here it is tlic church says, "We want vou to !)e our missionary agent or superintendent in the bou'ls of the Paciiic Synod and go forth and iiieacli tlie go -pel and l)e i nst niniciital in setting idle SCI.NKS OF F.MiLlKK DAYS. 14.") IkukIs t(i work and strcii^'tlicnin^- those who aro ali'cady trying' ti> aclvant-e the Master's kingdom." Let us then begin tlie work by going ovei liist to tlie south si(h' of the Stanishius river with a brotlier to as sist in the jireaching. The place was known as the Fagan school hou><'. Then the couiitrv was but sj)ai'se]_v settled and tlie iniiabitants est<'enied it a great privilege to come together for worship and for a social time. But even in such communities as this sometimes diflterenees arise and thev m ed the gracious outpouiing- of the Holy Spirit to set them right again. A minister had been preaching there for a feu months, when, by some means, one of the elders became offended and he and the minis- ter were having trouble, and as each one had his friends it caused a division in the neighboi'liood. When we ar- rived we heard of the difficulty and resolved as the first effort of the meeting to see if it could not be settled, knowing that no religious effort could jirosper while the maiii members and leaders were having- trouble. A meeting- of the two contending parties and an elder was called and after prayer each one was called on for a statement. When this was given it was soon found that the trouble was not of a very serious nature, at least not so seiious but what the parties could be reconciled if thev' would show the true forgiving spirit of Christians. It was something of a struggle, for human nature does not like to yield and it is only the divine within us that causes us to forgive our brother his trespasses. At last love conquered and tears flowed as the}- gave each other the right hand of fellowship. AVhen we met in the pub- lic congregation that night the actions of these tw-o 146 SCENES OF hAKLIEH DAYS. bretherii showed plainly they had been reconciled for they entered into the services of the hour with a hearty good will. Not only the people of (.iod but men of the world said, "After all there is something in the church which we have not experienced or then troubles could not be settled as readily as that had been." If the church wants a revival of religion the tir>-t thing to be done is to get trouble out of the way if there is any. Settlement of difficulties is a good revival of itself. We are tirst to be reconciled to our brother and then offer the ;^ift and the Lord will hear. The sermon on Sabbath was on the sixth of Romans, "Therefore being buried with Christ by baptism into death; that like as Christ was raised from the dead by the glory of the Father, even so we also should walk in newness of life." The main theme was the. new birth or being born again showing that in regeneration we are buried with Christ and as he became invisible to his old character after the work of regeneration by the Holy Spirit. As Christ had new life when he arose, so the believer arises to a new life in Christ. He is dead to his old character of sin but lives by the power of him who raised Christ from the dead. The effort was to show- that this chapter did not refer to any outward ordinance, such as water baptism, but to the baptism which is pure- ly spiritual. That no outward forms could by any possibility save us, that the Holy Spirit alone renews the soul and prepares us for heaven. This plain and pointed preaching told on those who heard any many through that holy Sabbath day resolved to lead a better life. There was an appointment for Monchiy with the re- SriCNES OV KAHLIKK DAYS. 147 quest that seekers of religion be present with all others \vho desired to come. There were quite a uuinber wlio attended and after the reading- of the scripture and prayer those who wished sj)ecial instructions in the way of salvation were recjuested to occupy a certain seat. Thei-e was no need of !i second invitation for every non- professor in the room came forward for prayers and in- struction. Among the nunil)er who came forward was a young man or rather one middle-aged who said, "I hiive been a seeker of religion the past twenty years and 1 have never found the Savior yet." The instructions given were of the jjlainest kijul so that all could understand it. It was soon veiy evident that the man of whom I speak, his name was Moore, was very near the kingdom and would soon enter, re- ceiving the baptism of the Holy Spirit. As we passed on, giving instructions to others, he rose to his feet and said, "I want to make a confession I never made in my life. God for (/hrist's sake has pardoned my sins." This new born soul, like all who are born again, desired the salvation of others and he was soon found telling others how to be saved and it was only a short time until all who came forward for prayers were rejoicirxg with our friend in God's pardoning love. It was a glad hour for all who were present and all who could sing were sing- ing, "I have just received the bounty with glory in my soul;" "Heaven came down our souls to greet and glory crowned the mercy seat." Happy company much like heaven itself. Mr. Moore, who first found Christ that day, was in rather poor health and not long after this he began to 148 SCEMKS OF KAKLIKH lUVS. decline very rapidh'. It \vas uat more than a year after this that it was plainly to be seen his mind was aifectecT and it was not long until he was entirely deianged and liad to be taken to the asylum at Stockton. He forgot the name of his parents, of his brothers and sisters and his old neigbors and even his own name he did not re- member, but to the very last hours of his life there was. one thing he did not forget and tljat was, "God had power on earth to forgive sins and that he loved his Saviour." He could tell when and where he was saved and could talk about the meeting on Monday in the school house. On this subject he seemed clear and rational but on all ot'ier things his mind was a blank. He could not name those wlio were present at the meet- ing but he knew he was there and that his sins were pardoned and ]o\' and gladness tilled his soul. He died a very triumphant death praising God as long as he had strength. After this meeting I went over to Merced and held a meeting in Merced City and in a school house several miles below town. The elder here told me that ministers had been preaching there that men could "get rehgion," as the}' termed it, and then lose it again as often as they saw proper. He asked me to present the real Bible view on that subject and 1 promised to do so. I used as a te.Kt "Heb. (5-19. Whi(rh hope we save as an anchor of the soul both sure and steadfast, and which eutereth in- to that within the vail; whether the forrunner is for us entered even Jesus." 1 never intimated but what all the world believed when (iod saved and regenerated a soul hat it was a work that lasted forever. That the anchor SCKNKS OF KAIU.IHK 1>\YS 140 M'oiild hold ;uiii(l tlie worst storms be(;aiise it was sure and steadfast and fastened ill Clirist the forrunner wlio was witliin the vial. I arLfned that (lod was snch a per- fect workman that he did not need and had no occasion to repeat himself; that when lie made the world he did not have to make it over on account of the work bciiiL;- dertcient. F:5ein<^' born aij^ain was a purely spiritual work M-rout;ht by the Holy Spii-it in the heart and as it was God's work it did not and woukl not have to be done over. I presented (rod's promises that it would never leave nor forsake us and before I had closed the sermon a o-ood Methodist sister rose to her feet, shouting, telling the neighbors they had "heard (lod's truth and that it must and would do good." While on the IMerced river I formed the acquaintance of an old pioneer and he told me about some of the early uistin,u' bigotry. 1 voted for him but 1 will never do it again. The agent of whom 1 speak seemed to be one of the men who thought he must have a large share of bighead just because he was the employe of a rich corporation. Jf he was a shareholder in the concern 1 never heard of it and even if he was that did not authorize him to act ugly with those who had business to transact with him. One day a hardy miner came down from the moun- tains where he had been mining and had some business at the oflrtce, when the agent, as usual, conjmeuced his abuse. The )niner looked on him with mild but earnest eyes for a time and then told him lirndy that whei'e he lived and where he had been raised such language was not allowed. That it was not the remarks of a gentlenian and he must quit it. The agent replied very sharj)ly, "That he was in tlie habit of doing as he pleased without the advice of any one." The hardy miner warned him not to rej^eat his insults and that if he did he would give him a thrashing such 15() SCKNES OF KAKLIER DAYS. as he would vemeuiber many days. He soon repeated his insults, when the miner did as he said he woidd, punishing the fellow so severely that it was ditKcult for him to attend to his duties as agent for several days. The authorities of the town were so glad of it that the man was not arrested, nor a line imposed, l)ut said they hoped it would be a lesson to the agent as long as he lived. It was said that it wrouglit sueii a change with the agent that afterwards he was gentlemanly ami polite to all who had dealings with him. Not long after this 1 was at the house of a friend in company with a number of men who had called, when the conversation turned toward the navigation company and how they were displeasing the public and if they kept on the residt would be the organization of another company. 1 remarked that at our town we had one of their agents who was abusive and insulting and that a miner came down from the niountains the other day and thrashed him severely and 1 thought if he had another such drubV)ing he might become a better man and k^arn to treat people as he ought. The lady of the house, who Avas and elderly woman and very shrewd and witty, had nothing to say on the subject until I closed my remarks in reference to the agent, when she raised her hand and pointing her linger at me said, "Go home, sir, and thrash him. The Lord made you and called you to do all the good you could and if you can do good by thrash- ing him, you certainly ought to do it. Go home, sir, and do you duty." All present roared with laughter at my expense and I acknowledged I was badly beaten by one woman at least. SCENES t)F EARLIER DA VS. 1 0? Kverybotly who kiicw tliis woinaii loved to be in lier company. She always had a cheerful word for all about her and was re<>arded always as an excellent christian. She dearly loved (ihildren and they were always pleased when they could be in her company. I was superintendent of the Home Mission work in the Pacific s3'nod for two years and during- that time there was more than 200 accessions to the church at the various meetings, I attended in company with other ministers. Durin<>' the same period I secured over $4000 for the salaries of other brethern. In the month of May, 1870, I decided, for reasons entirely satisfactory to my own mind, to join the Benicia presbytery of the Presbyterian church. It is not necessary to state these reasons here but will only say that 1 have never regretted the choice 1 made. The first year I was with them I ac- cepted of the colporture work, selling the books of the board of publication. Rev. S. T. Wells had charge of the board's publications for several years and it was at his retpiest 1 went to work. My first trip was up the coast as far as Mendocino City and through the moun- tains to Little Lake valley and down past Ukiah, Clover- dale and Healdsburg. There was preaching held at various places and some localities I found entirely desti- tute and very desirous to have services. One place I re- member they offered, if Presbyterians would send them a minister, to give him $G00 a year at that point and there w-ere other places in reach where very near as much more could be secured. It was onl}' a few years after this until the sawmill at the main point ceased to oper- ate and business became very dull and now it looks like 158 SCENKS OF KARLIKH DAiS. an old deserted miner's town. i)i making- that journey I came to Point Arena one day about noon and decideiT to dine at tlie liotel. When I stepped into the barroom a man (I can hardly call him a {gentleman) said, "Come up, stranger, and let us have a dram together." "No, sir, I never went to a public bar in my life yet and had a horn and 1 do not propose to start in now." "Sir, how long have you been in California," he asked. When I told him he immediately said "30U are a liar; no man ever lived in California that long without going to a bar for a drink." I told him it did not matter whether he believed me or not, that 1 had told him the truth. "No sir, you are a liar I tell you for I know the people of this state too well to believe anything of the kind. Come, now, my good fellow let us have a horn together." I then told him and a number of others, the bartender in(duded, that all men would be better off financially and morally if they wovild let liciuor alone. This seemed to irritate him and he came near enough to shake his list under mv nose. 1 suppose he thought he would scare me as I was among strangers and he among his drink- in"' friends. I laughed at him and told him I met on this coast a man of his kind almost every day of my life iuid that 1 was not by any means alarmed when they made such ajjproaches as he did. A man standing by, and calling him by name, said, "Let that man alone, for he looks like a gentleman and I believe he has told you the truth. SCKNt^i or KARI,1KU DAYS 15') This (how his attention for the time from me and just then the dinner bell was ringing and I went to my meal and saw nothing more of him. No doubt he would have a built entirely from one tree and it a very small one compared to the one we saw. We have a perfect right to speak of large things in this state for they are realities. Even our taxes are enormously large with but little to show for the.ni. V\ e are a long ways ahead of most of the states for we even tax churches, making them pay whether they have an income sufficient or not. Afler we left the big tree we found we were not going to be able to reach Little Lake valley that ni-ht and that we were out in the mountains without a house to be seen or a blanket to shield us from the cold, for it was the month of October and (luite chilly, and no grass for our horses and not a match to strike lire with. We pressed on until after sundown when we came to the crossing of Big river and there we found about thirty people out on a picnic. They had been there several days and had caught a tine lot i)i trout and killed a nuinl)er of deer. They came SCENES OF EAKl.Itli DAYS. 1()1 I'roiii !\fcu(l()ciii<) City and were well sujjplictl with pro- visions, 1 srltvted the luuii who I th(»ii;^ht was the leader and as 1 had soim; California brass in my face, at least more tlian my travflin,L>' companion, who had only been in the si.ite a few mouths, 1 walked up to him and reijuired, "Can we stay all nii^iit with you, for we are can^^ht heiv without food or blaidvets. We expected to make Little Lake but we caniKtt do it." "Certainly, ;L;entleinaii, just wall, in and make your- selves at home." The mam whom 1 appr'oached first said, "Ladies, stand hack, for 1 am going- to get these gentleman their supper; they have been traveling- all day without any thing- to eat and are very hungry." We unharnessed the tea n and he said, "there is jjh'iitv of hay; you will not find any grass near here so helj) yourselves." Soon it was announced that sui)per was ready and as good a one as any one need want. We had trout and vension for meat and we had ])ie and take, with tea in abundance. After the su]iper was over they arranged for the children a kind of sabbath school concert and theater mixed and had the exercises interspersed with some good music. Among- the singers my traveling- companion sang a solo to their great delight and amuse- ment. The wild woods echoed and reechoed with the evenin-'s entertainment and even the owds joined in the chorus, saying, "who, who, haw at iis." It had been a green spot to me in life's pilgrimage ever since. It was truly a night of real ricli enjoyment. The next morning I thought that it would be nothing but right to pay 1G2 afCENES ar earlier da vs. them for their trouble, but, no, they would not hear to it and we thanked them kindly and the leader siid, "gentlemen, if you ever pass this way again and find ns here you will l>e perfectly welcome to remain over night with us." "A friend in need is a friend indeed," so says the old adage and we found it so that night with all the good things they gave us, for it was not only plenty for our- selves and horses but also a good bed on which to rest 1 have often wished 1 had a picture of that camp just as as it was that night in the wild woods of Mendo;rino county. 1 can still see that pleasant company and how the children enjoyed the evening as well as older people I can see the vension hanging to the trees and the nice trout in pans ready for the morning's meal. I can still see that merry company as they would occasionally burst out in laughter at the comical speech (jf some child and greet it with rousing cheers. I believe it is true "that a little fun now and then is relished by the best of men." No one wants to go with a long sad face al a ays as though the Lord had forgotten them and the last friend they had on earth was either dead or about to die. God never intended us to go all the time with long and sol- emn faces but he wants us to enjov' life in a sensible way and with it be joyful to him. There are times wlien sad- ness enters the heart and the design is that we niaj' be benefitted by it but we can be greatly benefitted by our times of joy and of rejoicing as well. The next place we came to of much importanc^e was little Lake valley, a valley out in the mount:iins sur- rounded with timber. Here we tarried for the Sabbath . KXl'l-KIKNCES OF WKSTEKN I. IKK. Kio and preacliccl for tliciu, tlic Ba])tists kiiuUv ^^ivin;^- iis the use of their ehurch. Thcv have now ((Uite a villag'e in the valley called Willits. In its early history this valley witni ssed some terrible tragedies, one in which six or seven men weie killed in one day, but these days are passed and the civilizing and refining influences of the gospel has come among the iidiabitants to rejnain and lift tlieiu up and to stay with them so they (;an and will apj)reciate life. After retnrning home I made another- journey to Cali- stoga, a town situated at the head of Napa valley in Napa county. Here they had no minister but were very anxioiis to have preaching. F also went to Tomales on the coast in Marin county and fonnd they had a good church building', but no one to preach in it. I resigned my work as colportnre and resolved to devote all my energies to the two places above named. It w-as not long until there was a church organized at C'alistoga and a subscription started for a church building. After a few month's work there I gave that point up to the brother occu])ying St. Helena as Tomales had decided that I must ])reacli there every Sabl)ath There was no ehurch organized, neither a Sabbath school and when the trus- tees were about to make arrangements lor permanent work they told me th.';re was a debt of $2500 on the building. Thev' had built one house and it had burned down and in building the second one the}' were involved in the amount named above. They said they wanted me to know how things were and then I would know better what to do and how to manage. These trustees, without any exception, were not members of the church Ki-t i,xpkkii:nc;;s of western lifk. but good business men to uoik witli. 1 tolil tlieiii 1 was very hard to discomuj^t! when 1 entered on a work with a full and clear understandin<^-. "Now," said 1, ''will you take hold and work with nie until that debt is paid. " They said they would. The house had never been dedi- cated. 1 wrote to Mr. liemphill, now Dr. Hemphill, to come up and preach the sermon, which he did, and after the sermon there was more than $1000 secured by sub- scriptions and cash. Then the church erection board gave $()()0 and tlie trustees managed the remainder so that it was soon announed that the church was out of debt. I should have said that before this we organized a church, with I think, tifteen mend^ers and also a Sab- bath school had been organized and was doing good work. There was no parsonage and all said, "let us budd one and then our work will be nioie pei inunent, as our minister will then live with us." The ladies held a fair and festival and cleared $1100 and I got all the hauling necessary promised, together with a good reduction on the price of lumber, it was not long until the parsonage was completed and the par- son and his family in it. At the spring meeting of presbytery in lH7;j I was ap- pointed as commissioner to the general assembly, which met in Baltimore. After 1 decided to preach every Sabbath at Tomales and finding there was so many of them engaged in dairy- ing they concluded that an evening appointment would not suit them and that 1 could be free to go where 1 pleased. I established an afternoon appointment at Bloomfield, seven miles away, and kept it up while I EXPEKIHNCES OF WESTERN LIFE. lCi5 coTitiuueil to [)reiich at To.nalcs. It waH neveriuy privi- lege to preach to a more wliole-soiiled people than I foiiml at Toiuales. Tbey were willing to pay a good salary, and were regular in their attendance at church whether they were members or not. During my stay of three years among them 1 think there wei'e about twenty- live additions to the clinrch and the (h>bt paid and a par- sonage built. 1 went to Bloomtield after leaving Tomales. There was a fine church budding, which was erected mainly by a Mr. Henry Hall (who was not a member of the chnrch at the time) but was not finished inside A.11 of the members wdio lived there were then connected with the Big Valley church at Valley Ford, four miles away, but has since been organized into a seperate church. It was not long until the church w^as finished and all seemed to rejoice in it. A short time after we moved to Bloomfield, a Catholic friend of mine said to me, "1 want to ask you a ques^tion and I would like to have it answered." ' Yes," 1 said, "1 will answer it with the greatest of pleasure, if 1 can." He then said, "When you lived and preached at To- males the people all kept sober on the Sabbath and were very orderly, but when we (that is the Catholics) had services, they were drinking and sometimes we had tights and occasionally a horse race. We never had the good order 3'ou did. Now, I want to know why there was that diiference in the order of the two days." "I suppose you want me to give you an honest an- swer." 1()() F.XPEKll NCKS OF WKS^TERN LIFE. "Certainly, 1 do." "I know of no other reason than tliis, that on r religion and the morals we advocate are better than yours." Said he, "1 will be e(inally honest and will say that I l)elieve 3'on have told the truth. Many a Sunday have 1 watched your people and seen their good deportment and know that it far surpassed ours." For five years and a half while 1 preached at Bloom- field 1 also preached every two weeks at the Dunham school house or Stony Point. While living at Bloom- tield there was a series of meeting held, not by evangel- ists, but the local pastors and one Sunday we received twenty-six into the church. Had it not been for the many removals there would have been a strong church there numerically but they have gone to various portions of the state until now there are but few left to support it. It was ditHcidt then to manage finances and now it is nnich inore difficult, liaviiig all been caused by deaths and removals, but the field, with all these drawbacks, is still occupied and it is fondly hoped the efi'orts will yet be crowned with success. 1 think during my stay of seven years (that is preaching there seven years) there were about forty accessions to tlie church. The spring of 187i) a small church, which had l)een previously organized at Point Aremi, requested me to visit them with the object in view of a permanent pastor- ate. I went and held a meeting for them and as matters were arranged satisfactory I decided to move there. There were difftcidties to overcome that 1 had never en- countered before. Ilie jiiinister who preceeded me had not acted as a minister of the gospel should and this, KXPEUIKNCES OK WESTEKN LIl'E. 167 too'otlier witli the ilriiikiiiL;' hubitof the people, made it a hanl field but 1 resolved to try it in the strength of him who said, "I will never leave nor forsake thee." The field was about thirty miles long- reaching up and down the coast, up as far as I'.ridgeport and down as far as Gualala. I found it very hard work traveling on the coast for sometimes the wind blew so hard that it would send the gravel fl^'ing into my face until it would sting with pain. In order to supply the field 1 had to preach fre(iuentl\' three times on Sunday and travel thirty miles. The church had no house of worship in all the field. They did own a parsonage but it was in an un- finished condition. There were foundations to be laid and houses both S2)iritual and temporal to be erected and it w'as expected that the parson would at least lead the way in the temporalities of the church as well as in its spiritual aff'airs. I commenced preaching in Point Arena, May 1st, 1871), and was installed as pastor in June of the same year. Services were held in a small room in town, too small to accomodate those who wished to attend, and it was not long until we purchased the lower story of the Masonic hall and it was fitted up for church purposes and is still in use. I found the people in my new field of labor ready and willing to respond to the calls made upon them for mone}^ to carry on church work. At Manchester the Methodists had a house of worship as well as at Point Arena but the Presbyterians had always occupied the school house, why I did not know. When 1 commenced work there the Methodists wanted me to occui:)y the church and the Presbyterians the school house and both parties came to me about the 108 KXPEKIKNCES OF WKSTKHN Ul-K. matter and 1 tnld them I liad iiotliiiiL;- to say about it, that 1 (lid not come there to enter into a (Hiarrel tlie lirst thinj"-, that i was employed by the Presbyterians to })reaeh to them and if they said the i)reacliin^- should be in the school house or under !i pine tree that was the place where 1 was going. They voted nnanimously for the s(;hool house an^l as lon,i>- as 1 preached for them services were held there. Since I left them they have l)uilt a neat church and seem to be (piite prosperous. At Bridgeport services have always beoi held in a school house. At (irnalala we commenced iu a hall that was used for politicial purposes and dancing, good templars, etc. It was not long until there was a small neat church erected throngh the influence of Mr. and Mrs. Hay ward, tliey paying for the most of it. IMr. H. was one of the principal owners of the mill and saw the good influence churches had on the men in his emi)loy. The time had been when at the mills and logging camps hundred of men had been employed but all the mills of that portion of the country e.vtending from (Inalala to Bridgeport are now closed, save the one at (iualala. This one still seems to be prosperous and there is still an immense body of redwood and pine up the river that can be floated down. The greatest draw back to cliuich work in that field I found to be the rum power. .ATeii were bold and im- pudent and some of them n)ade fortunes selling whiskey. Sunday was the great drinking ;ind gand)ling day of the week and in some places they would get to much of old "tanglefoot" in tliem as to get mad and they would re- turn home with )nany a bruise disfiguring their faces. I KXI'KUIHNCKS OF WliS'l'KKN MFi:. ]()!• <1() not want by aiiv iiicaiis to leave the impiession that all the people liviiii;' alouj;' tlie coa.st were in the hal)it of diinkiii^' and j^anil'lin;^-, for there were those who did nc^t drink at all and then there were families who feared (tod and walked npiiyhtly in the midst of their evil snr- fonndinL;s and these were the ones who hi'lj)ed the country and Itnilt it up in morals. But under such in- fluences it I'ecpiired the couraj^e of a grizzly Ix'ar and 2)lenty of divine i^race to stand up and say, "I am foi' (iod and the ^ood of my country." Kwii some ministers who had ^'one among' the n j^ave way in an evil hour and drifted with the multitude, and at least one rilled a drunkard's grave. Now things have changed to a certain extent and there is not as nuich drinking and gambling as formeily and the people wdl compare favorahlv m morals with some older settled portions of our state. It is true there are not as many men there as formerly but those wlio are still there are incdined to that which is light, with a much tinner g'ri|) than they were a num- ber of years ago. I remember that not a great while after 1 moved there I was going- into town one day from my study and had to pass a saloon. In front of that saloon a number of njen were standing who liad been drinking'. Just as I got opposite to them one of tliem said, "Boys, here is the Parson, lets make him drink." 1 looked up at him and said, "Sir, you will have a sorry old time before you get through with that job." "Boys, I tell you we had better let him alone for their is tire in his eyes," said the speaker. With one single exce})tion I was treated kindly by 17(1 EXPERIENCES OF WKSTEHN LIFE. those who sold and those who drank. There was oiu-e that two men gainhh'd a (hiy and two nights and the second morning they got mad and one of them shot the other, it was thought at the time fatally, as the ball en- tered his body and could not be found. After lingering a long time and hovering between life and death he com- menced to improve and finally seemed to be quite well. The bartender, who waited on them with liquor and watched their gamblin- and saw the shooting, gave me all the particulars and i wrote them down and sent them to a Petaluma paper and they were published and given to the world. About six months after this the one who did the shooting was in Petaluma and one of his friends said to him, "Who is writing you up at the Point." He said, "No one that 1 knew of." The artic'le was given to him to read and when he re- turned home he made efforts to tind out the author of it. He had accused several men, but all denied having written it. One evening just before sundown 1 went to the saddle shop on an errand. 1 had not been there very long when the one who did the shoot ng came in and I saw at a glance that he was drinking. He came whei-e 1 was exclaiming, "Did you write it, did you write it." I told him 1 did not understand what he meant. "I mean, sir, that article in a Petahnua paper about me shooting a certain man." "Yes, sir," f^aid 1, "I believe 1 wrote an article of that kind." I had no thought of being struck by him, when all of a sudden he opened his hand ajid slapped me on the side KXPKKIKNCES (W W KSIKItN 1,1 KIC 171 of luv face. The first thouylit that entered my mind was what would the Savior do under such circumstances, and 1 said to myself, "He would not strike ba<;k and 1 will not either." At that the saddler bounded to his feet and said, "I di) Tiot allow any man to strike a minister in mv slu)p."' The lick he gave me only stunned me a little and made my head ache. When the saddler siid what he did 1 told him to hold on and 1 would manage him, that all such men were cowards and 1 was not in the least alarmed. When 1 accused him of being a croward he commenced to feel for liis i)istol and 1 knew he always went armed. 1 said to him "Take your hand off' from that pistol or you will get hurt badly." There was a large .saddler's hammer close to me and had he attempted my life with his pistol 1 should have used it on him. When 1 told him to take his hand off' he did as 1 told him and 1 was glad of it for 1 had no desire to do him bodily harni. 1 then commenced and told him that he had with his saloon business and gambling ruined more young men along this coast than any other man who «-ver lived on it and that unless he changed his ways he was sure of a drunkard's hell and a drunkard's grave. Then again he began to feel for his pistol and 1 re2)eated my request that he take his hand off' from it or he would be hurt badly and that very quick. He took his hand away the second time and 1 then told him, "You have been called the king along the coast and the bully just because you went armed and men knew it and they dreaded anj' trouble with you for fear they would be shot and killed or crippled for life, 'ft,A^^*t>-^ Put delivering the potatoes. — see page 154. KXPKRIENCES OF WESTERN lAFK. 173 but you have found one man, sir, who does not dread your presence nor care for tlie anus you at times have with yon." At this onset he commenced to feel for his pistol again and 1 said, "take your hand off, and now understand 1 am not goiny to make another recpiest of the kind and if you ])ut that hand for the pistol aj^ain you will have to run the risk of Avhat follows. 1 then told him, "3'our wife and daughters I respect and will do any good 1 can for either you or your family. That 1 always pitied a man who got into the habit of drinking until he had no courage to quit. That the only tiling or power in the universe which could save him was the Lord Jesus Christ; his grace and his alone could concpier and make a better man out of him." At that time 1 saw his chin begin to quiver and the tears to start and he held out his hand, saying, "Shan t we be good friends from this on." Said I, "Sir, I court no man's friendship, but if I can have it on high and honorable terms 1 am willing to ac- cept of it, but not otherwise." Said he, "1 promise I will never do you any harm as long as 1 live; 3'ou will be my friend." "Yes," I told him "1 will." \\ hen I returned home m}- wife asked what kejjt me so late. I told her what had transpired and for the first • and last time in her life she said, "Oh, let us move away from such an ungodly place." "No," said I, "not as long as 1 have strength to work. I am going to stand in the strength of the Lord and fight the devil in his own den." 174 I.Xl'KKII.NC ;s (IF WESTERN LIFE. It piodiUH'dc^iiite an excitement ill town iuul one of my friends said he would have Ljiveii the Parson twerity dollar if he had just let in and have given him a good thrashing. Then he studied a moment and said, ''No, he did the best deed of his life not to touch him.' This man, although he was one of the main property owners of the town, did not live there long after that, for the men were all the time picking at him and saying, "well, you found one man, if he was a prea' with revival ef- forts. After the conclusion of the serni,)n there was a •general intjniry meeting held in which a nninbei' of ministers and members eny;ajied. I think the iii()uirv meeting resulted in a .threat deal of good. It was con- ducted hv tho.se who knew what they were doing and as they went from one to another the interest seemed to in- crease. Finally one of the ministers who was at work, a Kev. Mr. Tables, came where 1 was seated and asked, "are you a christian?" 1 told him I sometimes thought when 1 heard others talk that I might be and then again when I heard some others talk was not so sure al;out it. 1 told him I had a great desire to be religious and serve (iod. "You ought, sir, to have more than a j)assiiig desire to that efl^'ect, it ought to burn down into your soul with such power that you would know^ for yourself and not another that you have passed from death unto life. There ought to be such earnestness that you would cry out, 'God be merciful to uie a sinner.' 'Lord saveor I perish."" "Yes," 1 asked, "is there not danger of becoming unduly excited and by that means make a mistake and that mistake result in veiy serious conseciuences." "There is no danger, as a general thmg, of one of mature years being mistaken. There is,'' said he, "no necessity for one to make a great noise about religion, for deep water always runs silent while the shallow makes a great noise. My friend," continued he, "it be- comes you to be deeply in earnest about this matter and not postpone it any longer or you may lose your soul and be eternally lost." ITS KXPERIENCKS OF WKSTEUN LIFE. "I want then to know, sir, iu a very plain, simple manner, how 1 am to hi saved, for is there not a very great mystery connected with th? thought of a sinful being approaching intiiiite purity and begging for par- don. Will not such a being spurn one from his pres- ence and send me to the world of woe? ' " No, (tocI tells us, ' He that cometh to me I will iu no wise cast out ; ' 'The prodigal son returned to his father's house although clad in rags.' " " Even if he should receive me, I would like to know how to come to him. Had I not better wait until I uiake myself more uneasy about my present condition or then wait for a convenient season? " •' You will never find a better time than now — and you are sufidciently uneasy about your condition. You can come to him now without a moment's delay. Now is the accepted time, behold, now is the day of salvation. Now God's people are ready to pray for you and assist you in coming to Christ. Jesus even now stands with out-stretched arms ready to receive you. This name is worthy with the Father and for His sake he will have mercy on you and save you." "Yes, but after I have believed, how am I to know I am saved, for I do not want any mistakes about it." "In the first place, He said the Holy Spirit will bear witness with your Spirit that you are a child of Ciod and have passed from death unto life." " Then if you have passed from death unto life you Avill love all who bear the image of the Saviour." "You can also tell by the desires you have. If any are made Christians and bear Christ's image they have a EXl'EKlKNl'KS OK W KSTKKN I.IFK. ITD great (.lesire that otlu'is Up saveil ami enjoy the rehj^ioii of Christ with them. Tlie re<»eiieratee that not lon<^- ;ifter this he made profession of relij^ion and had sent word to me thronyh him, "that lie would i>ive me $10 for every sermon I would eome and ])rea('h to him." I have found in my experience that it is sometimes an excellent plan to make some men mad and then when the ])assion wears ofl', they will see in their calm monjents how foolish they have been and turn to the only true source of help. This man was not the first one by any means whom I have seen leave meetin<^s mad and the result was they returned in deep penitence and sought forgiveness of the One who alone can forgive sins. I made another missionary trip, this time into the Siena Nevada mountains of which J will s])eak. About sun- down I found a village with a few hundred inhabitants in it — and the first one in all my western travels without a hotel. How this happened lean not tell, for somebody is almost snie to keep a ]ud)lic house even if it is a poor one. But let the house he ever so j)Oor, the price is always good, (that is good foi' the keeper's pocket.) I drove up to a store and iiKjuired for a stopping place. 'J'he gentleman said, "their is none in town, but 1 can take care of your horse, and there is a boaiding and lodging house kept not far away and there you can get something to eat, but you will have to sleep on the floor and wrap yourself in the blankets, they will fur- nish as the best that can be done." After the horse was cared for 1 went into the store and to mv astonislnuent, found the owner was selling "tangle-foot" as well as dry goods and groceries. Dur- our conversation 1 asked him if they ever had any ))reaching in the town. He told me he had lived there a "-ood many years, in fnci was one of the first to settle there and to his on'tain knowledge tlu-re had been only three sermons preached in the plai*e. "Do you preach'.''" he asked. EXPEKIKNCES OF WKSTKHN LIKE \H'^ "Yes, sir, that is uiy business." "Will you preach tonight if 1 get yo)i m congre- gation'?"' I told hini I would. 1 went to the boarding house for my meal and he started out notifying the people. Thev had a very large school house and at the aj^pointed hour it was full and all the windows had lockers on. I never preached to a more attentive audience anywher<'. I found something to eat and slept on the hard Hoor and the next morning tlie merchant who kept my horse told me that "at home in the state of Maine he always went with his mother and sister to church twice on Sundav and to Sabbath school and the^' had no idea how bad he was out here, a>ul for the world he did not want them to know he was selling whiskey.' He furnished all the lights for the school house and ])aid all my lulls, with a promise given • of reformation but whether this took place 1 cannot tell. CHAPTELl XXX. When I was living and preaching at Point Arena in Mendocino county, California, there was one time when at the close of the conference year the Methodists found they were behind with what they had promised to gi\e their minister and that it was necessary to do something so as to meet their obligations. The matter was talked over among themselves and the decision was to hold a church social with ice cream and cake as an "accompani- ment" as musicians say. A wise man always jjrovides for the wants of both soul and body and these church socials properly conducted do the same thing. The basement of the church being quite large it })roved a good room for these socials, for as a rule there are more who will attend a social than a preaching appointment. The first of the week 1 saw Mr. Adams, the pastor of the 1S4 EXPEKIENCKS OF WESTERN LIFE. rhurch, aiul he gave me a very eonlial and pressing in- vitation to be present, remarlnng at the same time, "von have a goofl deal of mischief and fnn about yon; I wisli you wonki open the exercises Thursday night with some of it." At the api)ointed time 1 went and found the room filled with an anxious, good-natured company. In arranging- the room they had placed a stand with some nice bou- fpiets on it and I was to stand behind it to make my re- marks. At the appointed time Mr. A. motioned to me and we took our places, when he said to them, "Mr. C. has been here so long he does not need any formal in- troduction for they all knew me and he hoped 1 would l>egin right away as the people were especially anxious, he knew, about the eating ])art of the social." When 1 begun I told them this was a strange world of strange things in which we lived. Pointing to the beautiful flowers before me 1 said, "look at those bou- (piets, they are of all colors and yet they have the same soil in which to grow, the same air and the same sun- shine, yet, strange to say, they are not all one color nor vet are they the same size. W hen we go forth to life's duties and walk or drive al ng the public highway we find at almost every step strange things. Look at the trees of the forest, how strange they are, some tower up towards the heavens while others are low and scrubby. Some are ver}' small while others are of immense size and yt't with all this no two leaves of the forest are pre- cisely alike. Strange they were not all made alike in their trunks and their leaves. Then there are the stars that are such strange things, some of them are large and others small, some shine a great deal more brilliantly than others. 'Twinkle, twinkle little star, how I won- der what you aie, up above tlie world so high like a dia- mond in the sky.' These brilliant orbs are all strange things to us. Then there is the sun, one of the most wonderful of strange objects on which our visions light. KXl'hUIENrKS OF W KSTEUN I.IKK. 1H5 It lias been j^ivin^ oft' lioth lij^lit ami heat for thousands of years past and still seems to have an inexhaustil>le sii]ii)y left. It is a stranj^e ol ject, set in the heavens bv Omnipotent ])o\ver. After s})eakino- of all these strange things in nature 1 then said, with as much emi)hasis as 1 was master of, "But of all the strange things in this world of strange things, the strangest thing is when a Methodist minister calls on a Presbyterian minister to do some solid beg- ging for him, when it is known in all communities where they work side by side that the Methodist can out- beg the Presbyterians two to one."' At this unexpected sally they stamped their feet and clapjjed their hands at a very lively rate and w hen they saw it made Mr. Adams blush they renewed it time and again. When I finished my remarks 1 took a seat by the side of Mr. A. and he shook his list at me very good- naturedly and said, loud enough for all to hear, "1 will pay you for that my good brother."' At this they renewed their cheering. The evening was a real social one and everybody seemed to enjov themselves. Mr. A. told me a few days after this that his social was a decided success and that what 1 said was the means of his getting at least twenty- five dollars which he would not have had had 1 not made that speech. I told hinj 1 was glad of it for I loved to be useful outside of my own church and home. It is very often the case that small country churches have a very hard struj^gle to keep out of debt and keep their finances well in hand. A church debt is to be dreaded a great deal more than jjrivate debts, in priv- ate debts as a rule there is but one person to worry about it but in church debts every true member feels that they are responsible for a just proportion of what is due. But of all connected with the church 1 think the pastor feels the burden of a debt more than any one else. I re- member when we purchased one-half of the Masonic 18() KXPEKIi.NCKS OF WI^TEHN LIKK. building at Point Arena for a church that we became involved and it took quite an effort to pay it off. l"'inally tlie work was accomplished and 1 told them from the l)ulpit one Sunda}' that our debt was all paid and the church so far as tinances were concerned was free. A very shrewd, intelligent man of the word, who had made an excellent success of his own business affairs, said to me the next day, "you have l)ut little idea how much power their was in those few word.s you spoke yesterday about the church being free from debt, for church debts keep peoj)le from joining and becoming identihed with the chu I ch's interest. You may expect your church to prosper from this on.' If this was the prophecy of a man of the world it lias came as true as Balaam's jjrophecj' did, for from a mere handful of members then it has grown to number at the present tinje 1()5 The pros})ects are still good for a future growth and greater usefullness. 1 certainly will ever retain a kindly rememberance ot the people living along the coast from Gualala to B)idge]jort, for many years 1 shared their hospitality and have l)een with numbers of them in their times of soriow, when their dead were laid gently away to await the sound of the trump of God at the last day. 1 love the state in which 1 live and for tlie last forty yeais have tried to advance its best interests by ojiposing the evil and advocating the good and I want still to see it rising as a mighty giant along the borders ol the great Pacific and standing as the beacon light amid the cluster of states which bedecks our western horizon. If any- thing 1 have said in this book shall help in these matters 1 shall be satisfied.