^ 866 . .052 ' DeWITT'S ^ ^ GUIDE TO iff ^ CENTRAL ^ ^ CALIFORNIA AN ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIPTIVE HANDBOOK FOR TOURISTS AND STRANGERS WITH MAPS F tM PRICE, FIFTY CENTS The Homes Built by the ^ * Contineniaf are alt over San Francisco Working COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. hOOOM HOME OFFICE 301 CALIFORNIA STREET San Francisco^ Cal* WM. CORBINf Secretary and Manager Schumacher 5f Co. Have the Largest Stock of CALIFORNIA SOUVENIRS IN SAN FRANCISCO Gold Quartz mounted in Artistic Jewelry. Gold Specimens and other minerals found on this Coast. Precious Stones in the rough and cut state, such as Sapphires, Zircons, Beryls, Topaz, Arizona Rubies, Amethysts, etc. California Abalone Shell Jewelry. Souvenir Spoons in large varieties. We Carry Only 14 and 18 KABAT GOLD JEWELDY Our Silver is of the Sterling Quality Only We have the second largest Jewelry Factory in California, hence are prepared to manufacture and carry out any design or order work. Repairing Promptly Attended to at Reasonable Prices 621 MARKET STREUT Entrance from Main Corridor of Palace Hotel SCHUMACHER & CO. We Buy Diamonds, Specimens, Quartz, Etc. Please mention De Witt's Guide to Central California ^ ^, ,C3 E-^ IH X ^ ^ ^ It c> >. K fT ^ Q k V p- > -J Qi> 1 r ^=^ THE LIGHT RUNNING Domestic The Sewing Machine for Family Use New Machines of Different Makes from |20 up All Kinds Rented $2.00 per Month J. W. EVans Generai, Agent 1021 Market St. San Francisco, Cat, Near Sixth DcWITT'S GUIDE TO CENTDAL CAUFOftNIA An illustrated and descriptive hand-book for tourists and strangers . • . Descriptive of San Francisco and the resorts and places of interest round about for a distance of about 150 miles; telling where they are and how best to see them . • . With num- erous illustrations and a fine new map of Central California Published by FRE.DERIC M. DeWITT jVfap and Guide Publisher 31S Post St.y San Francisco, Cal. THE LIBr7ARY O^ CONGRESS, T-vo CoP'ts R fcceiveo iViAY. 58 1902 Copyright entry CLASS i^XXc. No. COPY B. • » COPVRiaHTED 1902 BY FREDBPiC M. DeWITT 1 i\ -pS'^ i PREFACE. In the compiling of this Httle guide, and owing to the prominence that San Francisco has earned for itself in the doings and commerce of the world, much space has necessarily been devoted to it, the metropolis of the Pacific Coast. San Francisco has also deservedly come into a large share of the world's tourist travel, and is so situated that it is the natural point from which many interesting and enjoyable trips can be made into what can fittingly be termed "Central California." Tourists and visitors to the Pacific Coast having fre- quently requested a descriptive pamphlet that would enable them to learn of and see the principal points of interest in our city and surroundings, has prompted me to the compiling and publishing of this volume. The illustrations have been carefully selected, show- ing the principal buildings, streets, parks, and points likely to interest a stranger and be of interest to our friends far away. We trust that our efforts will fill a long-needed want, and be appreciated by our tourist friends. F. M. DeWitt. 318 Post Street. JPCCIAL PRICED IN KODAFL WOR.IC DEVELOPING Roll of 6 10 cents " 12 15 «' PKINTINO Solio 4 cents each Velox 6 '* '♦ KRLXO PAPER. 4x5, per dozen $ 15 4x5, per gross i 50 5x7, per dozen 30 5 X 7, per gross 3 00, other sizes in proportion de:ve:loper. 23 clsts "THAT MAN PITTi" IOO6 MARICET ^T. NEAR. POWELL ^T. S\S pKANCIiCO, CaL. INDEX TO SAN FRANCISCO. Page. Academy of Sciences 13 Affiliated Colleges opp. 14 Alcatraz Island 14 Alcazar Theatre 14 Almshouse 14 Angel Island 15 Appraiser's Building 15, 100 Architectural Features 15 Art Associations 16 Baggage 17 Banks — California 17 German Savings & Loan ...49 Hibernia Savings & Loan. .60 Nevada 75 S. F. Savings Union 90 Wells, Fargo & Co loi Bank of California 17 Bar 18 Bay of San Francisco 18 Bay of S. F. — History of 20 Bernal Heights 20 Blossom Rock 20 Board of Trade 21 Boating 21 Bohemian Club 22 British Benevolent Society 22 Buena Vista Park 22 Builders' Exchange 22 California Historical Society. ..22 California Hotel 22 California Market 23 California Pioneers 23 Cal'a School Mechanical Arts .23 California Street 24 California Theatre 24 California Woman's Hospital. .24 "Call" Building 24 Calvary Presbyterian Church. ..25 Car Lines 25 Catholic Orphan Asylum 26 Cemeteries 26-29 Chinatown 29-32 "Chronicle" 32 Churches — Calvary Presbyterian 25 Church of the Advent 33 First Congregational 46 Pack. First Unitarian 46 Grace 59 Mission Dolores 72 St. Ignatius 88 St. Mary's 89 St. Patrick's 89 Synagogue Emanu El 96 Trinity 99 Churches— In General 33 Church of the Advent 33 City and County Hospital 33 City Front 34 City Hall 35 City Travel 37 Cliff House 37 Climate and Dress 38 Clubs- Bohemian 22 Concordia 40 Olympic 78 Pacific-Union 79 Collection Day 92 Columbia Theatre 39 Columbo Market 39 Concordia Club 40 Conveyances 40 Crocker Building 41 Currency 41 Custom House 41 and loo Donahue Fountain 45 Earthquakes 41 "Examiner" 43 Farallone Islands 43 Federal Offices 15 Ferry 45 Ferry Depot opp. 44 Ferry, Bay & River Steamers. ..44 Fire Department 46 First Congregational Church. ..46 First Unitarian Church 46 Flood Building 47 Flowers 47 Fogs 47 Fort Mason 47 Fort Winfield Scott 48 French Hospital 48 Geological Society of Cal'a 49 Geological Society of the Pac...49 INDEX. Page. German Benevolent Society 49 German Hospital 49 German Savings & L. Society..49 Goat Island 50 Golden Gate 50 Golden Gate Park 51-58 Area 51 Aviary 53 Baseball Pitcher --56 Buffalo Paddock 57 Children's House and Play- ground ...58 Commissioners' Lodge 58 Conservatory 52 Deer Gie:i 57 Japanese Garden 54 Huntington Falls 55 Lake Alvord 58 Location 51 Museum 54 Music Stand 57 New Music Stand opp. 58 Park Bus opp. 58 Panhandle 52-78 Stow Lake 54 Strawberry Hill .. •-•■53 Trees from Original Thir- teen States 57 Monuments — Francis Scott Key 55 Garfield 56 Grant 56 Halleck 56 Thomas Starr King 55 Government Dock opp. 58 Grace Church 59 Grand Hotel 59 Grand Opera House 59 Hall of Justice 59 Harbor View 60 Hebrew Orphan Asylum 60 Hibernia Bank 60 Historical Sketch ofS. F.103-115 Hotels- California 22 Grand 59 Lick 64 Occidental 77 Russ 88 Hotels (in general) 61 Hospital for Children & Train- ing School for Nurses ... ..61 Hospital Incurable Children 61 Hunter's Point Dry Dock 62 Ingleside 62 Islands of the Bay 62 Kearny Street 62 Kindergartens 63 Ladies' Protection and Relief Society 63 Page. Libraries — Public 48 Mechanics' 68 Mercantile 68 Libraries— List of 63 Lick Baths 64 Lick House 64 Lick Statuary 64 Lime Point 65 Lincoln School 65 Lone Mountain 66 Lost Property 66 Lotta's Fountain 66 Mail Dock 67 Maria Kip Orphanage 67 Marine Hospital 67 Market Street 67 Mark Hopkins' Institute Art ...16 Masonic Temple 68 Mechanics' Institute 68 Mercantile Library 68 Metropolitan Temple 69 Merchants' Exchange 69 Military Trophy .75 Militia 69 Mills Building 70 Mining Bureau 71 Mint 71 Mission Dolores 72 Mission Dolores Church 72 Montgomery Street 73 Morgue 73 Mountain Lake 75 Mount Tamalpais 74 N. S. G. W. Fountain opp. 114 Nevada Bank 75 Nevada Block 75 Newspaper Gore 76 Nob Hill 76 Nob Hill (See also Sight-seeing, Section "C") Oakland Creek 19 Occidental Hotel 77 Odd Fellows' Building 78 Odd Fellows' Cemetery 78 Old People's Home .78 Olympic Club 78 Orpheum Theatre 78 Pacific-Union Club 79 Palace Hotel 79 Panhandle opp. 78 Parks— Buena Vista 22 Golden Gate 51-58 Fort Mason 47 Presidio... 84 South 92 Sutro Heights ••••93 Parrott Building 80 Phelan Building 80 INDEX. Page. Pioneers of California 23 Point Bonita 80 Point Lobos 81 Point Reyes 81 Population 81 Portsmouth Square 82 Post-office 82 Presidio 84 Public Library 48 Public Schools 85 Quarantine 86 Railroad Depotsi 44 Raccoon Strait 86 Receiving Hospital 86 Restaurants 86 Richardson Bay 87 Richmond District 87 Rincon Hill 87 River and Bay Steamers 44 Russ House 88 Russian Hill 88 St. Ignatius Church 88 St. Luke's Hospital 89 St. Mary's Cathedral 89 St. Mary's Hospital 89 St. Patrick's Church 89 S. F. Art Association 16 San Francisco (general de- scription) ..5-8 S. F. Savings Union 90 S. F. Stock & Exchange B'd'g.90 Sea-wall 91 Seal Rocks 90 Sight-seeing — Section A 9 " B 9 C 10 D II " E 12 See also Articles on- City Front, Golden Gate Park, Pack. Mount Tamalpais, Telegraph Hill, Twin Peaks, Van Ness Avenue, Cliff House, Sutro Heights and Baths. Signal Service 91 South Park 92 Statuary 92 Steamer Day 92 Stevenson Monument opp. 92 Stock and Exchange Building..90 Streets- California 24 Kearny 62 Market 67 Montgomery 73 Van Ness Avenue loi Sub-Treasury 93 Sutro Baths 94 Sntro Heights 93 Synagogue Emanu-El 96 Telegraph Hill 96 Telegraph Offices 98 Theatres- Alcazar 14 California 24 Columbia 39 Grand Opera House 59 Orpheum 78 Tivoli 98 Tivoli Opera House 98 Toland Medical Society 99 Trinity Church 99 Twin Peaks 99 Union Iron Works 99 U. S. Appraiser's Building 00 U. S. Custom House 100 Van Ness Avenue 100 Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express..ioi Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation lOI INDEX TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. Page. Agnews 139 Alameda 122 "All Day for a Dollar " Trip.. 177 Alvarado 138 Alviso 139 Antioch 164, 171 Aptos ; 138 Asti 157 Bay Point 171 Belmont 126 Page. Belvedere 153 Benicia 161 Berkeley 123 Big Trees (Santa Cruz Mts.)...i4i Broderick 162 Burlingame 126 Byron 165 California Northwestern Ry ..153 Calistoga 169 Calistoga via Vallejo Junctioni65 INDEX. Page. Capitola 138 Castroville 132 Cloverdale 157 Coast Line 126 Crockett 163 Davis 161 Decoto 145 Del Monte 133 East Yards 171 Elmira 161 Felton 140 Fernandez 171 French Camp 147 Fulton 156 Gait ISO Geysers 158 Geyserville . 157 Gilroy 132 Glen Ellen 160 Green Brae 155 Haywards 122, 145 Healdsburg 157 Hopland , 158 Ignacio 155 Irvington 145 Knightsen 172 Larkspur 173 Lathrop 146 Laurel , 14.0 Lick Observatory 131 Livermore 146 Los Gates 139 Lytton 157 Mare Island Navy Yard 166 Mark West 157 Martinez 164 Menlo Park 127 Mill Valley 173 Missioti San Jose 145 Monterey 133 Monterey Bay 136 Mt Diablo 164 Mt. Hamilton la Mt. St. Helena 168 Mt. Tamalpais 74 Muir 171 Napa 167 Napa Junction 166 Napa Valley 166 Navy Yard, Mare Island 166 Newark 138 Niles 145 North Shore Railroad 172 Novato 155 Oakland 117 Pacific Congress Springs 139 Pacific Grove 137 Pajaro 132 Palo Alto J 127 Page. Petaluma 156 Petrified Forest liSg Pinole 163 Pleasanton 146 Point Richmond 170 Port Costa 163 Reclamation 159 Redwood City 127 Rodeo 163 Ross Valley 174 Sacramento 150 Sacramento by Boat 174 Sacramento via Niles 144 Sacramento via Port Costa and Benicia 160 San Anselmo .. 174 San Jose 129 San Leandro 122, 144 San Lorenzo 138, 145 San Mateo 126 San Pablo 163, 171 San Quentin 174 San Rafael 155, 174 Santa Clara 128 Santa Clara Valley 128 Santa Cruz 142 Santa Fe Line , 170 Santa Rosa 156 Sausalito 172 Scenic Route for San Jose and Santa Cruz 138 Schellville 159 Side Trips 74, 174, 175, 176, 177 Side Trip Excursions 177 Sonoma 159 Sonoma Valley , 159 St Helena 168 Stockton , 147 Stockton by Boat 175 Stockton via Martinez 162 Stockton via Niles 144 Stockton via Santa Fe 170 Suisun 161 Sunol 146 Tamalpais 173 Tiburon 153 Tidal Canal 19, 123 Tracy 146 Ukiah 158 Vallejo 165 Vallejo by Boat , ... 175 Vallejo Junction 163 Warm Springs 145 Watsonville 137 Willits 159 Windsor 157 Wishbone Trip 176 Wright 139 Yountville 168 ^ SAN FRANCISCO, d^ SAN FRANCISCO, the commercial metropolis of the Pacific Coast, is situated on the extreme north end of a peninsula, and covers an area of 26,681 acres, 1500 acres of which are set apart as a military reservation. It has a population of 342,782, and is the ninth city in size in the United States; census of 1890 showed a population of 298,997. It is b unded on the west by the Pacific Ocean; on the north by the Golden Gate Strait and the Bay of San Francisco; on the east by the Bay; and on the south by San Mateo County, and is located in latitude 37° 47'' 22''''. 55 N. ; longitude, 122° 25'' 40''''. 76 W. The residence portion lies well in from the shore, and is perched up on its many hills. The wholesale districts lie on the eastern, or bay side, on the level streets, and to a great extent on what is called " made ground." Hundreds of acres (that portion lying between Tele- graph Hill and Market street, and east of Montgomery street) have been made by the filling in of the mud flats with sand and rock removed from the neighboring hills. The streets north of Market street run at right-angles, north and south, east and west; while those on the south side run southeast and northwest at right-angles to Mar- ket street, and those running parallel go to the south upon reaching Eleventh street, conforming to the lay of the land. The Mission hills to the west rise gradually, till they reach an altitude of about 850 feet. The two systems of streets are divided bv Market street, which 6 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE acts as the main artery. All streets are numbered from their intersection with Market street, except those that commence at the water-front, which are numbered from there. One hundred numbers, or as many as are neces- sary, are allotted to each block — a system which greatly facilitates the finding of any number. On all streets the even numbers are on the right-hand side, while on the left are to be found the odd numbers. The street names can be found on the corner lamp-posts. The blocks on the north side of Market street contain six fifty-varas, and average, north and south, sixteen blocks to the mile, while those running east and west, eleven to the mile. The blocks on the south side of Market street contain twelve fifty-varas, and average six blocks to the mile east and west, and eight north and south. All street-car lines have a terminus at Ferries, foot of Market street, or at intersection of Market street. The harbor of San Francisco is one of the largest and best appointed in the world. It will accommodate the navies of the world on its waters with perfect safety. Jn the harbor the myriad of tugs, steamers, clipper and sailing vessels, and ferry-boats, and at the wharves the forests of spars, tell the story of the millions of commerce that comes and departs from this port annually. The entrance through the Golden Gate cannot be surpassed, on the right of which can be seen the Chff House and Sutro Heights; then on, past a high, rugged bluff to a long stretch of sandy beach to old Fort Point, now aban- doned, beyond which can be seen the United States Military Reservation, Harbor View, and Black Point. Rising to the rear and inland, can be seen the city, perched on numberless hills of varymg heights, with their parallel streets, which, when seen on a summer's morn, presents an unrivaled sight; while on the left you pass Point Bonita (light-house). Point Diablo, Lime Point (a fog station), and on into the bay, leaving the town of Sausalito well into an arm of the bay (Richard- TO SAN mANCISCO. 7 son's Bay), and on past Alcatraz Island (a fortified mili- tary post), to the landing on the east side of the city. The windy and foggy weather which prevails at certain seasons for only a few weeks is the most disagreeable side of San Francisco climate. Our rainy season gen- erally starts about the middle of November, and we have light rains up to late in March. It generally rains during the night, the day being as pleasant as a sum- mer's day. It has twelve first-class hotels, numerous lodging- houses, six first-class theaters and places of amusement, several academies and art institutes, colleges, high schools, libraries, banks and savings institutions, a well- equipped police and fire department, and everything that goes to make up a growing and thriving city. The dwellings are principally built of wood, as the weather is dry and of uniform temperature. The handsomest residences can be found on Nob Hill (California street), Van Ness avenue, and Pacific Heights (Clay, Washington, Jackson, Pacific, Broadway, and the intermediate cross-streets). The largest retail stores can be found on Market, Kearny, Montgomery, and Post streets. On California, Pine, and Montgomery streets are located the various banks, insurance and brokers' offices, while south of Market and east of Second are located the factories and foundries. There are not as many handsome public buildings m San Francisco as there are in the larger Eastern cities, but we are as yet in our infancy. San Francisco has the facilities of being a large manu- facturing center, situated as it is on a peninsula, with one of the finest harbors in the world lapping its shores, and being the natural shipping-point of counties of untold mineral wealth and remarkable fertility of soil. Flour and lumber mills, foundries, machine and boiler shops, sugar refineries, canning establishments, boot and shoe 8 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE factories, and many other industries give employment to many men, boys, and girls. Owing to the rapid strides in which San Francisco is coming to the front as a factor in the shipping and com- merce of the world, a large manufacturing business is fast centering in the city and on the bay shores. San Francisco now produces (census 1900) 43.9% of the manufactured articles of the State, having a value of |i33)069,4i6 on an investment of $80,103,369 in some 4,002 establishments, employing 41,978 men, who earn $22,037,527 annually. It is the third commercial and ninth manufacturing city in the United States. The city proper is built upon about a dozen hills and their intervening valleys and hillsides, the natural lay of the land making the system of drainage very complete and systematic. To one coming toward the city from Sausalito, Tib- uron, Oakland, or Alameda at night, the lights climbing up and along the hillsides, and then again clustering round about the bases, sometimes in single, and then again in double columns, presents a very picturesque sight. The city can be seen to splendid advantage and saving of time by taking the front seat of a cable or an electric car, which climbs up and over the steepest of grades, allowing one to get an unobstructed view of most any part of the city. San Francisco can as well be termed the "City of Flowers" as of a "Hundred Hills," although either is fittingly appropriate. A walk through the residence portion of the city is a constant study of botany. Rich evergreens and mag- nificent hot-house plants are ever appearing to your right or left. A great scarcity of shade-trees along the streets, even in the residence portion, is very noticeable. The growth of this city in its infancy was proverbial; everybody seemed bent upon the making of money, and the planting of shade trees was sorely neglected, little beingthought of the city's future or architectural features. TO SAN FRANCISCO. SIGHT- SEEING. When a traveler finds himself for the first time in a strange city, with time to spare and disposition to make the most of it, the question naturally rises in his own mind, "Where shall I go in order to spend my leisure hours with the best advantage?" This must be a matter of taste, only to be settled by individual preference. We have attempted in this publication to give full infor- mation upon almost every subject and institution of any note, so that the tastes may be suited; also, a short his- torical sketch of such points and places as have helped make the city what it is to-day. SIGHT-SEEING.— SECTION A. If San Francisco is without any great public buildings, old museums, and historic structures, there are yet many things and places likely to interest a stranger. Take, for instance, the Cliff House, Sutro Heights, Golden Gate Park and its various attractions, Chinatown, Palace Hotel, Mint, City Hall, and many other as interesting points of view. The best time of the day to see the city is in the fore- noon, before the wind and dust blows. SIGHT-SEEING.— SECTION B. A very pleasant ride is on the Ferries and Cliff House cable road (Jackson street). Getting on the cars at the ferry, one passes through the wholesale fruit and pro- duce district, then on through Chinatown, up some of the steep grades of the city and over the hill and down into the valley below, and then over Pacific Heights, on which can be seen some of our finest residences. At the end of the cable system a change is made (same fare) to a steam-car, which takes you through a growing distric. known as Richmond; transfers are also issued to the lO SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Park via Sacramento-street cable road. On the left you pass Laurel Hill Cemetery, while a little beyond on the right you come to the Alexander Maternity Cottage and the Hospital for Children and Training School for Nurses. Next you pass the United States Marine Hos- pital, just off to the right, at Mountain Lake, in the Presidio. After passing this point, the first glimpse of the Golden Gate and Point Bonita is to be had. After going about two miles due west, a sudden turn is made to the north (passing the City Cemetery on the left) to the bluffs on the south side of the Golden Gate. A grand view can here be had of the marine approach to the San Francisco Bay through the glorious Golden Gate, which is two and one-half miles wide at the entrance, Point Lobos to Point Bonita (light- house sta- tion), and one mile wide at the entrance into the bay. Fort Point to Lime Point (fog station). The train takes a circuitous course, following the edge of the bluffs, until it reaches the terminus, a point opposite the entrance to Sutro Heights {q. v.). A choice of two other lines affords one the oppor- tunity of returning to the city. SIGHT-SEEING.— SECTION C. Another pleasant ride is on the California-street cable road, starting from the intersection of California and Market streets, near the ferry. Upon taking the car you immediately pass through the banking and insurance district, on up one of the steepest hills of the city, to Nob Hill, passing, on the left, at the corner of Powell, the late Senator Stanford's residence; corner of Mason, the late Mark Hopkins' residence, now the Mark Hop- kins University of Art {q. v.)\ on block beyond, the residences of Hon. E. B. Pond and Mrs. Tobin; corner of Taylor, the residence of the late A. N. Towne, and beyond, that of Mr. H. H. Sherwood; corner of Jones, TO SAN FRANCISCO. II Mr. Whittell's; just beyond Jones street, the residence of E. J. Baldwin; while on the right, corner of Powell, you pass the late David Porter's residence; corner of Mason, the Flood mansion, the only brownstone resi- dence in the city; corner of Taylor, the Huntington residence (formerly belonging to D, D. Colton); while opposite is the residence of the late Charles Crocker; adjoining, and on the corner of Jones, is the residence of his son, W. H. Crocker; on the opposite corner is the foundation of a proposed gorgeous tenement building. After passing these re.sidences, you immediately, after climbing down and then up another grade, find yourself in another fashionable residence portion of the city. At the corner of Hyde street transfers are issued, enabling you to go either to North Beach and Presidio or to the center of town again. At the terminus transfers are issued to the Park or Cliff House on route described in above ride (Section B); or, upon paying another fare, you can proceed to the ClifT House or Park on the Sutro electric road, traveling through Richmond to the Sutro Baths {g. v.), situated just above the Cliff House. SIGHT-SEEING.— SECTION D. Another pleasant trip is on the San Francisco and San Mateo electric line. The cars are taken on Steuart street at intersection of Market, thence along Steuart to Harrison, out Harrison to Fourteenth, to Guerrero, to San Jos^ avenue, to Thirtieth street, where transfers are issued, enabling you to go on to Colma, passing the City and County Jail on the right. By paying another fare (five cents), you can go to the end of the line, passing numberless milk dairies and roadside inns on either side of the road. The Jewish, Cypress Lawn, and the Mount of Holy Cross Cemeteries are at the terminus. This is the old road to San Jos^. On coming back, transfers can be taken at Eighteenth street, enabling you to go to 12 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE the Golden Gate Park. After riding on Eighteenth street for about ten blocks, you commence to climb the Mission Hills. When about two-thirds of the way up the car is run back on a switch to allow the down car to pass; the bar connecting with the trolley is reversed, and the car proceeds on its way, but rear end first. The summit is reached, leaving Twin Peaks to the rear, and passing Liberty Heights, with the Sutro statue of Liberty, on the right. Directly ahead are Ashbury Heights, while to the left is to be seen Golden Gate Park stretch- ing oceanward. Point Bonita and the Golden Gate can also be seen. The car then takes a circuitous route until it reaches the Park, passing, in the meantime, close to the Chutes. SIGHT-SEEING.— SECTION E. Another point of vantage is at North Beach, corner of Larkin and Chestnut streets. Take Hyde street branch of California-street cable system, get off at Chestnut, and walk one block west, — walk to brow of hill just below the corner. To the east can be seen the Berkeley shore of the bay. The suburbs of Oakland and the town of Berkeley can be seen snugly nestled at the foothills of the Contra Costa spur of the Coast Range, which looms up in the background. The grounds and buildings of the University of California can also be discerned. Beyond the brow of the hills can be seen Mt. Diablo (3848 feet). Goat Island rises 340 feet from the bay, and shuts from view the towns of Oak- laad and Alameda. To the north can be seen Alcatraz and Angel Islands, to the east of which is the entrance to San Pablo and Suisun Bays, and the watercourse to Sacramento and Stockton, while to the west can be seen the towns of Tiburon and Belvedere; then across Rich- ardson's Bay to Sausalito, a very pretty little town, snugly and cosily situated on a thickly wooded hillside, TO SAN FRANCISCO. I3 while directly over looms up Mt. Tamalpais, 2592 feet, with its ever-circling railroad winding its way up the steep slopes. It rises 2400 feet in its eight-mile run, making over 270 turns. At the immediate base of the hill on which you stand can be seen a large brick building while just beyond is Fort Mason, a military reservation, soon to be converted into a public square. Following the line of the bay, you come to Harbor View, a favorite Sunday resort. There can be had at these grounds surf and tank bathing of the most beneficent kind. Beyond, in the cove, is the Presidio, the finest military reserva- tion west of Chicago. Just beyond is Fort Winfield Scott, over which you can see Point Bonita, with the Golden Gate intervening. Opposite Fort Winfield Scott, on the Marin County shore, is Lime Point, a fog station. Ti) the west of Alcatraz can be seen, at low tide only, Shagg Rock, a sunken reef, while farther on can be seen Arch Rock. At low tide an opening can be seen through this rock. This rock is often used for target practice by the fortified points around the vicinity. It is three and one-quarter miles in a direct line from the corner o( Larkin and Chestnut streets to Fort Winfield Scott, and six miles to Point Bonita. (See articles on City Front, Van Ness Avenue, and Telegraph Hill.) An excursion to the various military posts around the bay is well worth the while. Permission having been obtained from the Government officials (fourth floor, Phelan Building), one can take the Government steamer McDowell from foot of Clay-street wharf (Pier i). The steamer leaves at time indicated on back of pass. ACADEMYOF occupies a handsome seven-story struc- SCI ENCES ture at 819 Market street, adjoining the Flood and Parrott buildings. The materials used in the construction of this building were obtained in principal from this State — marble from Colton, and sandstone 14 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE from the quarries and mines at Sespe and Gilroy; the granite from the several mines. There is a museum in connection with the academy which is well worth visiting. It contains some fine and rare specimens of fishes, reptiles, birds and animals, minerals, and natural curiosities. It is open daily, ex- cept Sundays and holidays, from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. It is free to the public. This is one of the many bequests of the late James Lick. Cost, 1400,000. ALCATRAZ (Pelican) is in the bay, about one and a ISLAND quarter miles to the north of the city. It is a strongly fortified station, garrisoned by one com- pany of heavy artillery. There is also a submarine torpedo station located on the island. There is a fog- bell and a lighthouse on the island, whose light can be seen nineteen miles to sea. It contains thirty acres, and is one-third of a mile long by one-tenth of a mile wide, and is about one hundred and forty feet above low water. It is a part of San Francisco County, and came into the possession of the United States Government in 1846. There is a wharf on the east side of the island, where the Government boat lands on its trips around the various military posts. ALCAZAR is on the north side of O'Farrell street, THEATRE between Powell and Stockton. It was first opened November 18, 1885. A I Mcuniier ^^ situation affords it one of the ALMSHOUSE j^g^ithiest sites in the county. It is a large frame building, standing on a knoll, around which are gardens of vegetables, and walks through which its inmates stroll and exercise. It was built in 1867 It is just west of Twin Peaks, near Laguna Honda, a reservoir of the Spring Valley Water Works. It is on Seventh avenue, south of the Park, and can be reached by driving through the Park to Seventh avenue, or around from Ingleside (Ocean Road). TO SAN FRANCISCO. AFFILIATED COLLEGES Situated on a command' OF THE UNIVERSITY j^g eminence facing Par- OF CALIFORNIA ^ .^ ^, nassus avenue, to the south of Golden Gate Park, are to be seen the several buildings of the Affiliated Colleges of the University of California. The corner-stone was laid March 27, 1S97, amid the very impressive ceremony of the Masonic order, by Grand Master Lucas and Dr. Beverly Cole, who is called the "Father of the Affiliated Colleges," so earnest and hard had been his working for their concentration and erection. An appropriation by the State Legislature was made in 1895 of $250,000 for the buildings, and through the benevolence and public-spiritedness of the late Hon. ex-Mayor Adolph Sutro, the University of California is indebted for the site. As yei but two of the buildings are occupied, the cen- tral (or main) building by the Medical Department, and the one to the east by the Pharmaceutical. The Colleges of Law, Dentistry, and Veterinary are shortly to be re- moved here. A fine view can be had from the steps of the main building: — In the immediate foreground lies the Golden Gate Park (page 51), with all its natural beauties and at- tractiveness; to the east we see a residence section of the city, with its cozily nestled homes and regularly laid out streets, and the "Chutes," a place of amusement; glan- cing to the left we see Lone Mountain (page 66) and the cemeteries (page 26) at its base; to the left again and on the other side of the Bay we see the top of Angel Island (page 15), then comes Mount Tamalpais (page 74) in all its splendor, looming up beyond the Golden Gate (page 50), which lies before you. Point Bonita (page 80), its outer portal on the Marin County shore, can be seen, as well as quite a stretch on up the coast; while to the west can be seen the broad expanse of the Pacific Ocean, and on a clear day the Farallone Islands (page 43). The colleges are thirty minutes ride from Market street; take Ellis Street electric cars, with red dash-board. SOUVENIR BOOKS Do not fail to procure "IN THE FOOTPRINTS OF THE PADRES or OLD DAYS IN ELDORADO" By Charles Warren Stoddard Price, $1.50 CALIFORNIA VIOLETS" By Grace Hibbard Price, $1.00 IDYLS OF ELDORADO" By Charles Keeler Price, $1.25 "OBSERVATIONS IN CHINATOWN" Illustrated by Peixotto Price, $3.50 AT ALL BOOK-STORES PUBLISHED BY A. M. ROBERTSON 126 Post St., San Francisco, Cal. TO SAN FRANCISCO. I5 ^ .«. ...^ is also in the bay, situated a little ANGEL ISLAND ^, * tai I ti ^ ^• northwest of Alcatraz Island, and is about three miles from San Francisco. It is also a military post. It is one and one-half miles long by three- quarters of a mile wide, and contains 600 acres, and rises 760 feet above the bay. There are extensive quarries of blue and brown sandstone, which are valuable for build- ing purposes, but they are only partially developed. Clay of an excellent quality is also to be found on the Island. The Quarantine Station is situated on the northern portion of the island, on Raccoon straits. Portion of Marin county. APPRAISERS' on east side of Sansome, extending BUILDING from Jackson to Washington streets, is a large brick structure, four stories high, with a facing of i2o>^ feet on Jackson and Washington streets and 265 >^ feet on Sansome street. Original cost was $1,050,000. Federal offices in the Appraisers' Building — First floor — Internal Revenue, Marine Hospital, Special Agent Treasury, Special Agent Internal Revenue, Shipping Commissioner, Agent Secret Service, Inspect- or of Hulls and Boilers, Supervising Inspector of Hulls and Boilers. Second Floor — U. S. Local Appraisers, Coast and Geodetic Survey, Inspection and Repairs Revenue Cutter Service. Third floor— U. S. District Court, Northern District of California; U. S. Circuit Court, Northern District of Ci'ifornia; U. S. Court of Appeals, Ninth Circuit; Clerks of above Courts, U. S. District Attorney, N. D., U. S. Marshal, N. D.; U. S. Court Commissioner. ARCHITECTURAL It can safely be said that in San FEATURES Francisco there can be found more varieties of arch tecture than in any city west of l6 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Chicago, ranging all the way from the old adobe to the new and modern office buildings. On looking out Market street (on which the greatest changes have taken place), and observing the different heights and material used in the making of the buildings a very striking contrast presents itself to view. Some of the older buildings are of wood, while adjoining rises a massive and imposing structure after the Gothic, Modern French, or Renaissance style, with varied modifications and combinations. Pressed brick, a California production, is speedily taking the place of granite, sandstone, and stucco work, and presents a very trim and solid appearance. Throughout the residence portion of the city (excepting Pacific Heights) the dwellings are principally of wooden construction, and a very noticeable feature (typical of San Francisco) is the number of bay windows to be seen. ART This magnificent edifice, on southeast ASSOCIATION corner of California and Mason Streets, was originally a private dwelling, built by one of California's pioneer citizens, the late Mark Hopkins. In 1893 it was given to the city and state by Mr. E. F. Searles, of Methuen, Mass., into whose possession it had passed, for the purpose of illustration and instruction in the fine arts. The building in itself is well worth visiting, being most richly finished in rare woods and beautiful frescoes. The Institute contains a large collection of fine paintings and sculpture; a spacious gallery has recently been added to its other attractions. It is open, free to the public, on the first Friday of each month. At all other times an admission fee of 25 cents is charged. Open 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., including Sundays. The California School of Design, a school for instruc- tion in drawing, painting, and modeling, and an affiliated college of the University of California, is a part of the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art, situated at corner of Pine and Mason Streets. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 17 BAGGAGE can be safely intruslcd to any of the ex- press agents who approach you on the cars or boats, or at the landings; the charges being 25 to 50 cents per trunk. Parties leaving the city can have their trunks and packages called for at their hotels or residences and checked upon presenting their tickets to the expressman, thereby doing away with the minor details of departure. '>i H lli ^ttt *BC »" '---*<^— *^i: Telegraph Hill. BANK OF situated on the northwest corner of CALIFORNIA California and Sansome streets, is a splendid structure of a dark-blue stone from the quarries of Angel Island. It is symmetrical and of fine propor- tion, being two stories his:h and surmounted by a hand- some stone balustrade. The bank was organized June i8th, 1864, with a paid-up capital of |2, 000, 000. This is the bank through which William C. Pa^Lton transacted l8 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE all his speculations. He at that time was president, ha\' ing succeeded D. O. Mills. On August 26, 1875, ^'^t; bank suspended payment, but in less than six weeks business was resumed, the stockholders having sub- scribed to a guarantee fund of 17,500,000, The after- noon of the bank's suspension, Mr. Ralston was drowned while bathing in the bay at North Beach. At the time of his death, Mr. Ralston owed the vast sum of $16,000,000. He was always a prominent and respected citizen, and looked forward to a bright and prosperous future of the city. . . six miles to the west of Golden Gate, is a 1 n ^ B /V n circular bank of sand, measuring fourteen miles long on the crest. About two miles of it has four fathoms of water, or less, and is called the four-fathom bank. One half mile lying between this bank and the north shore carries eight fathoms, and is called the North, or Bonita, Channel. The remaining ten miles average five fathoms, through which the Main Ship and South Channels are forced. The Main Ship Channel is directly opposite the Golden Gate. There are two forces acting on the bar: the ocean, and the tidal drainage from the interior. The former tends to force the sand up, the latter to beat it down. The bar formerly reached in a straight line from point to point, but the action of the tide has forced it two miles out to sea. It is quite dangerous for vessels to attempt to cross during a storm, or when the wind is strong, but in fair weather, vessels have been known to anchor on the bar, BAY OF is the largest, deepest, and safest SAN FRANCISCO harbor on the Pacific Coast. It is about forty miles long and ten miles wide, and covers an area of 450 square miles, extending thirty miles north and ten miles south of the city, having a shore line of over .'^oo miles. It has an excellent bottom for anchor- TO SAN FRANCISCO. I9 age. The snrroiiiuiin^ hills protect its waters from the strori}* wuuls which are \\\>ui to swee[) in from the ocean. It opens into the ocean thronojh the Golden Gate, which is one mile at inner gate, and two and one-half miles at outer entrance, being three miles long, with a channel with sixty fath. of water. The channels, while not free from rocks, are free from danger, and, indeed. San Francisco harbor, bj' reason of its unusual depth of entrance, freedom from hidden dangers, conspicuous landmarks, and its internal commodiousness and capac- ity, is among the finest in the world. San Pablo Bay, its northern arm, is twelve miles long, and eight miles wide, and connects, by the Straits of Car(]uinez, with Suisun Bay to the east, which is six miles long, and is the recipient of the waters of the Sac- ramento and San Joaquin Rivers. In order to secure an untrammeled passageway across the bay for the ferry boats, all vessels are obliged to anchor outside of an imaginary line drawn from Jackson- street Wharf to Goat Island, and from Mission-street Wharf to S. P. Wharf at Alameda Point, and outside an imaginary line 503 yards from the shore line. The drain- age of 53,000 square miles of territory reaches the sea through the channels of the bay. Benicia is at the head of navigation for deep-sea-going vessels. Steamers and sailing vessels load wheat direct for Europe and all parts of the world from the many warehouses in the upper bay. Had it not been for the extensive mud flats immedi- ately in front of Oakland, San Francisco would never have been what it is to-day. Vessels desiring to unload at Oakland were obliged to anchor two miles off shore. There has been a channel built out into the bay, between two parallel walls of rock taken from Goat and Angel Islands. They are 800 feet apart, and 1000 feel long, and contain 13S 56) tons of rock. This connects with San Antonio Creek, and is called the "Creek Route." Sea-going vessels winter here. 20 SOUVENIR AND AUIDE The Bay of San Francisco was first discovered, Novem ber 7, 1769, by Friars Crespi and Portala, who traveled up the Coast from San Diego in search of Monterey Bay. They missed it altogether, and crossed the mountains on west side of bay, from whence they saw displayed before them the vast inland sea, which they then named San Francisco. In August, 1775, Lieut. Ayala, in com- mand of the "San Carlos," made an extensive survey of the newly discovered inland sea, he being the first to sail through the Golden Gate. BERNAL in the southern part of the city, rise 480 HEIGHTS fggt They are easy to reach, but hard to ascend, as it is all up-hill climbing, over rough, rocky ground Take Mission-street electric line, getting off at about Twenty-ninth or Thirtieth streets and going to the left. A grand view of the city from the south can be had from here. Looking to the east, you can see Hunter's Point, the Sugar Refinery, Rolling Mills, Union Iron Works; following the bay-line past the ferries, we come to Tele- graph Hill on the north, with the business portion inter- vening; the residences on Nob and Russian Hills can easily be discerned, as can those of HoUaday and Pacific Heights; to northwest can be seen Buena Vista Park, Liberty Hill, and Twin Peaks, Mission Hills closing in on the west. A grand panoramic view of the city can be had, with the City Hall looming up in the center. These heights, and on towards the bay, including the Potrero and Hunter's Point, were included in a Mexican grant of 4446 acres issued to Jos6 C. Bernal in 1840. BLOSSOM is a sub-marine reef in the bay, five feet ROCK below high- water. It is three quarters of a mile to the east from foot of Powell-street Wharf. A buoy marks its place. It was blow^n up by the Govern- ment, May 23, 1870. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 21 The Bay of San Francisco affords one fond of boating a grand opportunity for enjoy- ment. Sail or row-boats can be hired by the day or hour, either with or without an attendant, at almost any of the various wharves around the City Front at the foot of Powell, Clay, Folsom, Howard, or Fourth streets. A very pleasant sail can be had by going up the bay to Vallejo (the former State capital), to Mare Island Navy Yard, and then down past San Quentin, through the Raccoon Straits, past Tiburon, Sausalito, and on out through the Golden Gate, passing Lime Point on the right, and returning, passing Fort Winfield Scott and Presidio, Harbor View, and Black Point on the right. It is not safe for strangers to venture out on the bay without an attendant, as it is very treacherous — squally. Lake Merritt, in Oakland, is also a favorite boating resort. Lake Stow, in Golden Gate Park, affords a very pleasant row, BOARD OF is an association of prominent gentlemen TRADE throughout the State, organized for the purpose of establishing and maintaining an exhibit of the agricultural and industrial resources of the State; to promote immigration; and to issue from time to time pamphlets and circulars of statistical, and other important, information concerning the State. It also endeavors to encourage the establishment of manufacturing and other interests, by exhibiting in the principal cities and expositions throughout the United States, the great varieties and excellence of California's products. Its permanent exhibit is in the Union Ferry Depot, foot of Market street, above the offices of the Har- bor Commissioners, and California can justly be proud of the array of products here displayed, which consists of most every known agricultural, horticultural, and mineral prod- uct. All visitors to the city should see this exhibit. It is open to the public from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. 22 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE BOHEMIAN at 130 Post street, was incorporated ^•-^^ in 187?, and is principally composed of gentlemen connected professionally with literature, art, music, and the drama. BRITISH was incorporated in 1865 for the pur- ^nr i^Tv''^'^'^ pose of affording temporary relief to the sick and destitute persons born under the British flag. Office, 604 Merchant street. BUEIMA VISTA lies just east of Golden Gate Park, ^^"•^ and to south of Haight street. There is a roadway leading to the top of the hill, off Haiglu street, opposite Baker street. While it has been set aside as a public park, it is nothing as yet but a thickly wooded hill of an area of thirty-six acres A grand view of the entire city, from the Cliff House round the City Front to Hunter's Point, can be had. The Farallones and Point Reyes can also be discerned, as can Mt. Tamal- pais and Mt. Diablo. St. Joseph's Home is on the south- east slope, and the German Hospital and grounds are at the eastern base. BUILDERS' 40 New Montgomery street, corner Mis- EXCHANGE ^\q^ street, back of Palace Hotel. CALIFORNIA was incorporated April 29, 1852, and HISTORICAL is maintained by private subscription. SOCIETY It occupies rooms at 819 Market street, Academy of Sciences' Building, where a large collection of historical works pertaining to California can be found. CALIFORNIA situated on north side Bush street. J^OTEL above Kearny, is a perfectly fire-prool building, and can be easily reached from ferries and rail- road depots by street cars. Strictly first-class — ether European or American plan. All the modern conven iences and luxuries are to be found here; the fittings and furnishings are of the latest and most approved types. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 23 The building is eight stories high, and is built of carved stone and pressed brick. The hotel was opened in December, 1S90. C A LI FO R N I A extending from Pine to California street, MARKET between Kearny and Montgomery, is one of the sight-seer's goals. In it can be seen fruits of all kinds at any season of the year. The meat, poultry, fish, and delicacy stalls present a very appetizing sight. Fruits are sold in California by the pound, box, or basket, as are also vegetables, and not by the measure, as is the custom throughout the East. CALIFORNIA The Society of California Pioneers oc- PIONEERS cupies rooms in the Pioneer Building, west side of Fourth street, near Market. The society was organized in August, 1850, for the purpose of gath- ering information relative to early settlement of the State. Any person who was in California prior to Janu- ary I, 1849, is eligible to membership, and also any male descendant. Such members as have rendered any val- uable service, or distinguished themselves by any import- ant act, are eligible to honorary membership. There is a library, a fine collection of minerals and relics, and other objects connected with the early history of the State. There is also what they call a second class, admitting to membership all who were in the State prior to January I, 1850, or any male descendant of such. CALIFORNIA SCHOOL located on corner of Six- OF MECHANICAL ARTS teenth and Utah streets, was founded by James Lick with an endowment of $540,000. All native-born, male or female, are eligible, provided they have passed the eighth grade in the grammar schools. The practical arts of life, such as wood, iron, and stone working, mechanical and architectural draught- ing, are taught. There is no charge for tuition. Twenty dollars will cover expenses for tools and material. 24 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE CALIFORNIA On California street, to the east of ®' ^^^' Kearny, can be found some of the principal banks and insurance companies — French Bank, San Francisco Savings Union, German Bank, Spring Valley Water Works' offices, with California Market opposite; below Montgomery being insurance offices, London and San Francisco Bank, Bank of California; while on opposite side of street is Safe Deposit Building, Merchants' Exchange, Fireman's Fund and other insur- ance companies; below Sansome is the Mutual Life and several other large insurance companies; while further to east, and on toward Market street, can be seen large wholesale houses of most every description; while above Kearny street, you ascend one of the steepest hills in the city, traveled by a cable car, passing the old St. Mary's Cathedral on the right, corner of Dupont; Grace Church on the left, comer of Stockton; on up to Nob Hill, which is described in another portion of this work (Sight-Seeing, Section C). CALIFORNIA On north side of Bush street, above THEATRE Kearny. Seating capacity of 1600. It was in this theatre that John McCullough and Lawrence Barrett first appeared before a San Francisco audience, January, 1869. The building was constructed by William C. Ralston and others. It was torn down to make place for the new California Hotel and Theatre building, $126,000 having been paid for the site and building. C A LI FO R N I A 3118 Sacramento street, was organized WOM AN 'S 1868, for the purpose of caring for old women who are destitute, who have no means of paying for medical treatment. *' CALL" On the southwest corner of Market and BUILDING Third streets, stands the tallest building on the Pacific Coast. It is the home of "The San Fran- cisco Call," one of our leading daily newspapers. The TO SAN FRANCISCO. 25 building from sidewalk to top of dome is 300 feet high, and contains sixteen floors. The top of the main cornice is 210 feet high. It is perfectly fire-proof, being con- structed entirely of marble, sandstone, and of steel girders. There are 272 offices in the building. Erected 1896-97. CALVARY occupies an imposing site on the nufm^XT^'^'^'^ northwest corner of Jackson and Fillmore streets. It is one of the largest and finest appointed houses of worship on the coast, having recently been completed (1902). It was formerly located on the site of the "St. Francis Hotel," corner Geary and Powell streets, where services were held from 1869 to 1900 and previous to that on Bush street near Montgomery. _ The street-car lines of San Francisco are CAR LINES mostly cable and electric, very few of the old-time horse-cars remaining. The cable system, as applied to street-car travel, was first conceived and put into operation in San Francisco, the old Clay-street road, from Kearny to Leavenworth, having been con- structed and in running order by September, 1873. It has long since been demolished, and now forms part of the Ferry and Cliff House system. Cable cars now ascend the hills in every part of the city, the electric cars confining their routes, with a few exceptions, to the level streets. As yet, we have no elevated or underground roads. The life of a cable is about three months, but on some roads they are obliged to put in a new one every four or five weeks. The Powell-street cable is one and a quarter inches in diameter, and one recently put in was 26,000 feet in length, and weighed 66,625 pounds. The electric roads are run at a much less expense, and are last replacing the cable roads, except in the hilly districts. There has recently been established a City Railway Mail Service, running over the Sacramento, 26 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Kearny, Mission, Market, and Hayes-street lines. These qars are painted white, and do not carry passengers. The publishers recommend that all strangers provide themselves with a copy of DeWitt's "Street Number Directory." For sale at all the book-stores and news- stands. Price 50 cents. CATHOLIC in South San Francisco, was organized in ORPHAN 1851. A more commodious and spacious ASYLUM , ^, , ,10 .1 buildmg was erected ni 1872 on the sum- mit of a hill, commanding a grand view. It is under the charge of the Sisters of Charity, and is capable of caring for nearly 1000 children. The building can be seen from most any part of the city. _ The principal cemetei ies of San Fran- CEMETERIES Cisco surround the base of Lone -Mountain, which can be fittingly called, the " city of the dead." To the north lies the Laurel Hill; to the south, Masonic; to east. Calvary; while to the west is the Odd Fellows. In any of them, one can see some of the finest mausoleum architecture in the State. Mission Dolores Cemetery is m the Mission, being on Dolores street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth, ad- joining the old church. There is also a military cemetery in the Presidio. The combined area of the cemeteries in the city is 335 acres. (See separate description following. ) Yerba Buena Cemetery was set aside as a public burying-place in 1850. It was then a large area of sand, covering ten acres, interments having been previously made at North Beach, Clark's Point, and Happy Valley. There was also a burying-place on Russian Hill. The first burial was in the early part of 1850, and four years later it had some 4000 graves. Many having been taken sick while en route to California, others returning from the interior, who were beyond medical aid and dying, were buried here. The City Hall stands on the ground of the old Yerba Buena Cemetery. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 27 Calvary Cemetery lies between Geary, Turk, and Broderick streets and Masonic avenue, main entrance being west of Broderick street, opposite Ellis. Many large and cosily monuments and vaults are to be seen here. The remains of W. S. O'Brien, VV. Dunphy, and Mrs. VVm. Sharon are buried here. City Cemetery is on Twenty-fourth, near Point Lobos avenue, overlooking the Golden Gate. It is passed by the extension of the Jackson-street cable system, and by the steam-cars which go to the Cliff House and Sutro Heights. Laurel Hill Cemetery lies between California and Post streets, and west from Central avenue to Williamson street. Main entrance is on the west side of Central avenue, opposite Bush street. This cemetery, which was formerly called Lone Mountain Cemetery, was dedi- cated May 30, 1854. and the first interment made June 2. 1854. Upon entering, you pass the superintendent's office on the right, and upon following the main avenue, you pass the Luning and Larkin vaults on the left, while on the right lie the remains of the late Senator J. F. Miller. Upon following this road, you soon reach the old vault formerly used by the Chinese (this was formerly the City Ce netery); passing to the right and taking road below, you pass the plots of the "Elks" and "San Francisco Volunteer Fire Department and Exempt Fire Co." Returning, you pass numerous costly and elegant monuments and vaults, where are laid to rest many of the makers and founders of the commonwealth of California— Milton S. Latham, D. C. Broderick, VV. C. Ralston, H, H. Toland, Fair, Flood, Newhall, McAllister, Wilson, Babcock, Colonel E. D. Baker, and many others. Masonic Cemetery lies between Masonic and Parker avenues, Turk and Fulton streets. It is handsome and well kept. The broad walks, green grass, and profusion of flowers make it a very attractive spot. There is also 28 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE a fountain just to the left of the main road. The grounds are in a sheltered spot, being to the lee of Lone Moun- tain, which rises in all its majestic magnitude to the west and north. Upon an eminence in the center of the grounds are erected some of the finest vaults and monuments to be seen in the cemetery — the Wieland, Bradbury, Fry, Cole, and Frapolli, being particularly noticeable. From this point a grand view up the coast to Point Arena can be had. On a clear day the Farallone Islands can be seen. The receiving vaults are on the south side, and well sheltered. The remains of Fargo, Garratt, Brittain, VVhittell, and many others closely con- nected with the early history of the State, are buried in this cemetery. The Pioneers also have a plot here. Mission Dolores, between Sixteenth and Seven- teenth streets, adjoins the old Mission church. It has not been used for interment purposes since 1858. Don Luis Arguello, the first California governor under the Mexi- can domain, lies here, as do, also, Jas. F. Casey, an ex-convict from Sing Sing, who was executed by the Vigilance Committee in 1856, and other personages noted for their connection with the early history of the city. The inscriptions are mostly in the Spanish language. National Cemetery is located in the Presidio reser- vation, on a rising ground just beyond the barracks and parade. To the right are to be seen the soldiers' graves, each marked with a small, white marble slab. Off to the west-center is the monument erected by the sympathiz- ing and appreciative citizens of Sacramento, in memory of the five members of Battery L, of the Fifth Artillery, who were killed by strikers near Sacramento, July 11, 1894. It is guarded day and night by sentries, as attempts and threats have been made by strikers to blow it up, on account of the inscription, which they claim is unjust. On the left is the plot of Geo. H. Thomas Post, No. 2, G. A. R., marked by a granite statue of a soldier stand- TO SAN FRANCISCO. 29 ing at parade rest; erected 1892. General McDowell, Colonel Basil Norris, and other noted officers and men are buried here. Odd Fellows Cemetery is situated on the western slope of Lone Mountain, entrance being on Point Lobos avenue. There are two entrances, one for carriages, which extends nearly across the entire front, and the other for the use of those on foot. Both entrances are flanked by two large, artistic, granite posts. Upon enter- ing the grounds you pass the keeper's house on the right ; while just beyond is the De Young monument. On the left are numerous flower-beds and the Columbarium, beyond which is the receiving vault. After passing many well-kept plots and monuments, you come to the Crema- torium, the only one in the city. Beyond are several plots belonging to the various I. O. O. F. lodges ; and upon the slope of the hill is the G. A. R. plot, well kept, with a very fittingly inscribed monument. The Ladies' Relief Corps of the G A. R have also erected a monu- ment here. There are some very fine monuments and vaults to be seen throughout the grounds. CHINA- covering an area of about ten square blocks, TOWN ijeg n^ thg heart of the city, being bounded by California and Pacific, Kearny and Stockton streets. The Sacramento and Clay-street cars pass through from east to west. There are 10,000 Mongolians living here, while there are about 3000 more scattered around about the city in the various laundries and residences, acting in the capacity of cooks, etc. There are a great many narrow streets running in all directions, lined on both sides with gambling-houses, stores, and rows of barred windows, behind which are wretched female slaves or prostitutes. One is impressed with the numerous grocery and meat stores, and fruit-stands where the sugar-cane can be procured. At one time the Chinese controlled the pork industry of the city, all the pork used going through 30 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE their hands. They are very fond of smoked fish and poultry, and at most any time of the day you can see them drinking tea and eating their rice with chopsticks. The majority of the Chinese population is of the lower class, but we have here some very refined and sharp business men, as well as bankers and traders. They are very hard to drive a bargain with; you are worsted nearly every time. The women dress very gaudily, their hair being dressed to the highest degree of the barber's art. They never wear any head-gear. They generally wear large, loose-fitting blouses, with huge sleeves, and a pair of trousers of equally generous dimen- sions. The feet, which are very small, are covered with a close-fitting, generally white, stocking, and are fitted in a wooden-soled shoe, with a pointed heel in the middle of the sole. A ring of bone or ivory generally encircles their ankU-s and wrists. Their faces, which are full and round, are generally painted to a high degree, being in full touch with their hair. One should not leave San Francisco without doing Chinatown at night. A guide can be obtained who, for a small sum, will take you througli all the crooks and nooks. Ladies should be left at home, unless they have lungs strong enough to endure t!ie most dreadful of stenches. It is always better to jjo in the night, when all the workmen are resting, gaming, or smoking opium, and you see a very different side of life. There are restaurants, barber-shops, gaming-dens, opium-joints, theatres, and joss-houses, and many other points of interest to be seen. The restaurants, which can be distinguished by their elegant fronts, are well worth visiting. Their tea is always of the best, and all kmds of preserves and cooked meats can be eaten with a relish. Chinese nuts and candies are also served. Oil ui a corner you can ofttimes see a group of Chinamen eating, with their chopsticks, from bowls which are held close to their mouths. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 3I The temples, or Joss-houses^ as t'v^y are more com- monly called, are interesting^ in tlu extreme. Visitor.^ are allowed full liberty to stroll aboui Yon can see all manner of hideous idols and images perched u|)on stands, with gorgeous drapery and decorations, while in from are burning tapers and punks stick ng up from pots of earth. The Chinese New Year (between January 20th and February 20th, approximatt-ly), affords one the best opportunity of seeing them in full blast. They havt their separate josses, each representing some one of the powers, — such as fire, sickness, water, war, etc. Some are vegetarians, being offered only vegetables, while others are offered fruits, meats, wine, or teas. The Chinese as a whole are a 'very industrious and imitative race. They are engaged in all sorts of indus- tries — some making boots and shoes, some clothes, others cigars, fruit-canning and preserving, and in fact, nearly every pursuit the white man plys. The workmen labor for a small [pittance, and in that way their goods can be, and are, offered in successful competition with white labor. Funerals. — Upon the death of a Chinaman, baked meats and fruit cakes, wine, and teas are placed in great profusion at the foot of the coffin. The hired lady mourners, dressed in white, proceed to go through their lamentalons. The body is then put in the hearse and taken to the cemetery. Along the route slips of paper, in imitation of Chinese money, are strewn, to keep off the bad spirits. The baked meats, etc., — and even a whole hog — are often taken to the cemetery and placed over the grave. Lighted punks are then placed in the ground and left to burn, while the major part of the food is brought back, and the mourners proceed to have a funeral feast. The bones of all dead Chinamen are, after being thoroughly cleaned, returned to China. The shops out- 32 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE wardly present a very uninviting appearance, but once inside a very different atmosphere surrounds you. The most wonderful crapes, delicate embroideries, and gorgeous carving come out, as if by magic, and array them- selves before you. China and bamboo curios, perfumes, and paints are to be seen in endless variety, and can be had (with a little bargaining) at reasonable prices. The Chinese are very clever in their dealings. Chinese Theatres afe in full blast the year round, and especially during the period of their New Year. All visitors should avail themselves of a trustworthy guide (ask hotel clerks), and be piloted through theatres in their trip through Chinatown. Visitors are permitted to sit upon the stage, and to even inspect their dressing- rooms, which are directly off the stage. Chinese women never appear on the stage. Chinamen acting their parts so perfectly that one cannot detect the deception. The musicians keep up such a constant beating of cymbals, drums, and of blowing squeaky horns, that one is glad to get out into the street again, where he is free from the fumes of smoking-tobacco, etc. The Chinese do an immense business in the laundry line, having wash-houses all over the city. Chinese Immigration. — The first Chinese to arrive in this State came on the brig *' Eagle," February 2, 1848. They were two men and one woman. In 1850, 450 had arrived; in 1851, 2700; in 1852, 18,000, — 10,000 of whom arrived during the month of June; in 1890, there were 24,613 in San Francisco alone. Large numbers went direct to the mines, working for a few cents a day. The law is such now that no Chinaman can come from China, except certified merchants or officials. ••r»uooMir»i F »• occupiesa striking edifice at the cor- CH RON ICLE ^^^ ^j. jy^^j-i^gt Geary, and Kearny streets. It is nine stories high, and surmounted by a bronze clock-tower, 210 feet high. The building is built TO SAN FRANCISCO. 33 of a pressed brick and a dark brown sandstone (sespe) found in Ventura county. The offices of the paper are on the ground floor occupying the Kearny-street front, while the press-rooms are in the basement below. The composing and editorial rooms are on the top floor. The other floors are rented as office rooms, and are fur- nished with all known modern improvements. It is now one ol the leading newspapers west of Chicago. " The Chronicle " was first issued as the " Daily Dramatic Chronicle," January i6, 1865, was distributed free, and run as such until September i, 1868, when it became a full-fledged newspaper of seven columns, ot an independent and aggressive nature. It has been en- larged, from time to time, until it is now of the standard size, and one of the leading papers on the Pacific Coast. There are some 125 churches of various denominations in the city, many of which have their benevolent and charitable societies, which accomplish an immense amount of good among the destitute and needy, such as providing cheap boarding and lodging houses, homes for girls and aged women, hospitals and orphan asylums, food and clothing. (See separate description; also list.) CHURCH OF THE on the south side of Eleventh, ADVENT between Market and Mission streets, is at present in an unfinished state, the two towers remaining to be finished, and presents a very heavy and abrupt front. The building is constructed of light-colored brick and terra cotta, CITY AND COUNTY is located on Potrero avenue, HOSPITAL near Twenty -second street. Take Howard street cars to Twenty-fourth street and Potrero avenue, then walk two blocks to left (east). 34 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE ^.^w ^^^^.^ A Stroll around the City Front will CITY FRONT . . ./'. .^. ^, impress one more forcibly with the extent of our manufacturing, shipping, and commerce than all the statistics you can devour. Commencing at Harbor View, the Fulton Iron and Ship-building Works are first inspected; the Gas Works are soon reached, then Fort Mason — U. S. Military Reservation — the large warehouses of Fontana Fruit Packing Co., and Ghirar- delli's Chocolate and Mustard W^orks following next. The plant of the Equitable Gas Works, foot of Hyde Street, and the American Steel and Wire Works, foot of Mason Street, are next passed, and the sea-wall is finally reached, at the west end of which is Fisherman's Wharf and the Custom and Quarantine stations. Following the line of the sea-wall one passes through a shed of ample dimensions, where large shipments of wheat are being discharged and stowed away, waiting to be reshipped to some foreign port. Emerging from the shed, we reach the freight slips, where trains are received from and dispatched to points throughout the interior. We next pass a series of wharves projecting into the bay, along- iiideof which are vessels discharging cargoes from foreign ports and reloading with Pacific Coast products. Further on are the headquarters of the tow-boat fleet, beyond which are some of the many coal bunkers, with huge colliers unloading their dusky cargoes. Trees have recently been planted around the City Front from Vallejo Street to the Union Depot. Next we come to the wharves of the P. C S. S. Co., where steamers are taken for coast ports and Alaska; then the O. and O. line is reached, with its steamers for Honolulu, Australia, Samoa, etc.; next we come to the wharves where the river steamers unload their country products. During the fruit season the wharves are literally covered with fruits and vegetables that can find no market. The supply being in excess of consumption, it is ofttimes dumped into the bay, that being the cheapest TO SAN FRANCISCO 35 way of disposal. W'e are now at the Union Ferry Depot, fo(jt of Market Street, where the ferry-boats are taken for various points on the bay and interior, and where the stranger from across the continent first lands. To the south of the ferry is the Ferry Post-office and numerous piers, same as we ha\e just passed, alongside of which are many lumber-laden vessels discharging their cargoes of redwood, pine, and other Pacific Coast timber, as well as more coal bunkers and their discharging vessels. We are now at the U. S. Army Transport docks, where thousands of soldiers have taken ship for our new possessions in the Orient, and millions of dollars worth of stores and supplies dispatched. The wharves here turn to the right and we see the Merchants' Dry Dock, with some vessel being repaired or having her bottom cleaned of the large accumulation of barnacles. Then the freight yards and slips of the Santa Fe, and more coal bunkers and lumber yards are passed, reaching the P. M. S. S. Company's wharf, foot of First and Brannan Streets, where passage is taken for the Hawaiian Islands, China, Japan, Philippine Islands, and New York via Panama. We next reach the freight slips of the Southern Pacific, where the freight-boats dock that carry the cars to and from Oakland Creek. Channel Street, a canal about five blocks long, is crossed; the freight-yards, etc., of the Santa Fe, the Arctic Oil Works, Union Iron Works, Risdon Iron Works, Spreckels' Sugar Refinery, and California Barrel Works are also worth inspection. This brings us to the present end of our improved City Front, though it really extends several miles below to Hunter's Point Dry Docks. CITY HALL occupies a large, three-cornered tract of land bounded by Larkin and McAllister Streets and City Hall Avenue. Verba Buena Cemetery formerly occupied the ground on which the City Hall now stands. The bodies of the early pioneers were removed to Laurel Hill and other 36 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE cemeteries in the early sixties. The building, which has just been completed, has been some twenty years build- ing, and has cost nearly |6,ooo,ooo. At the eastern gore stands the Hall of Records, a large, circular, fire-proof building, connected with the main build n? by an open corridor. It is surmounted by a dome, 134 feet high. The Corinthian pilasters surrounding the building are forty- eight feet high. The rooms of the Boards of Education, Supervisors, Health and Police Commissioners, Auditor, County Clerk, Chief of Police, District Attorney, License Col- lector, Public Administrator, Recorder, Sheriff, Surveyor, Tax Collector, Treasurer, and Mayor, are all located in the main building. The City Prison is located in the northwest wing, in the basement, and the Receiving Hospital is in a like position in the southwest wing. The Free Public Library is located on the second floor on the McAllister-street side. On the south side rises a large artistic tower dome, 115 feet in diameter. This is the handsomest dome this side of Chicago, and rises 335 feet from the sidewalk. It is surrounded by numberless Corinthian and Ionic columns arrayed in tiers. The roof of the dome is covered with a copper sheathing. Surmounting all this, is the figure of "Progress," thirty feet from base to top of torch, which she holds upraised. The figure is twenty-two feet high; the ball on which the statue stands is eighteen feet in diameter. The dome cost the immense sum of |4io,ooo. The grounds about the building are laid out in flower beds and grass plots, and the whole is surrounded by a low granite wall with artistic lamp-posts set equi-distant around the building. The building covers an area of four acres, and is ninety feet high from sidewalk to top of balustrade on main building. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 37 CITY Our system of street railroads, with the TRAVEL systematic distribution of transfers, gives a passenger perft-ct facilities for reaching most any part of the city, and for one fare — five cents. The fares are the same on all lines. CLIFF situated on the extreme western shore of the HOUSE ^^ity^ at the south head of the Golden Gate,- on Point Lobos, is seven miles from the Palace Hotel. It was burned to the ground on the night of December 25. 1894. little being saved. It was built on October, 1863, and partially wrecked July 14, 1886, by an explosion of 80,000 pounds of dynamite on the schooner "Parallel," which drilted close in shore. Presidents Grant, Hayes, and Harrison, and many other noted personages, have stood on the balconies of the old building, and watched the seals on the rocks, and the long surging surf as it broke on the beach. The present structure was designed after the style of a French chateau of the seventeenth century. On the main floor (off the road) is an enclosed balcony, surround- mg the building, from which an unobstructed view can be had of the marine approach to the harbor. Photo- graphs and curios of all kinds are tastefully displayed, to entrap the tourist into investing in some little souvenir of the occasion. The parlor, restaurant, and bar, and numerous private dining-rooms are also located on this floor. The floor above is devoted to parlors, dining and private rooms, and a large banquet room. There is an elevator, which for five cents takes you up into the highest tower, from which point a grand view is to be had. There is a cosy little dining-hall at this land- ing, in which one can luncheon and take in sights. A camera obscura is being constructed, which will afford considerable amusement and entertainment to the many visitors. The Cliff is reached by several lines of cars. The 38 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Ferries and Cliff House cable lines (Sacramento and Jackson streets), transferring to steam car running out to California and Lake streets to, and following, the bluffs on southern side of the Golden Gate to grounds immedi- ately over Cliff. California-street cable line transfers at Central avenue to steam -car line mentioned above, ■^utter-street cable line transfers at Central avenue to the Sutro electric road which, on leav ng Central avenue, goes out California street, to WilliamsoTi. to Clement, and out Point Lobos avenue to Sutro Baths, just aoove the Cliff. Haight-street cable line (Market-street system) transfers to steam carat Stanyan street. Or one can take a drive through Golden Gate Park, or out Point Lobos avenue (extension of Geary street). All car-fares to Cliff House, five cents. The restaurant attached to the Cliff House is world- famous. One can sit for hours on the veranda facing the ocean, and watch the sea-lions basking in the sun i.r swimming around on the rocks, only a few hundred yards away from the building. Immediately to the -outh can be seen a long stretch of sandy beach with the b eakers rolling in, presenting a view not to be equaled at many resorts. Point San Pedro can be seen in the far distance. From the porch at the north you can see the exterior of the bath houses, also the break-water and the basin into which the waves are depositing the salt sea water for the tanks, and the tunnels through the rocks through which it passes. On the hill above is the signal station of the Merchants' Exchange. Beyond, on the opposite shore, can be seen Point Bonita, and on, up the coast, thirty-three miles, Point Reyes. On a clear day the Farallone Islands, twenty-six miles out to sea, can be seen. CLIMATE AND There are but two seasons in Cali- DRESS. fornia (wet and dry), instead of the four seasons as in the Eastern States. The wet season generally begins about the middle of .November and TO SAN FRANCISCO. 39 lasts till March, with an occasional li^ht shower in Apiil. Our winters (mid-wet season) are cielii^iitrul. inasinuch as it seldom rains hard, and when it does, it very frequently happens duriii.^ the night, so that it leav^-- the day very pleasant, resemblin^^a summer's day. TIt averaii^e rainfall is twenty-three inches. Hot days are few September being: o;enerally the hottest month in theyrar The avei"age temperature during the summer mont (dry season) is tifty-eight degrees. The nights are alv\a\- cool, wiiich afford one perfect rest and repose. Being situated, as we are, on a peninsula, betwet i. two b dies of water, we are subjected to high winds, which are very prevalent during July and August, with frequent fogs during July, August, and September. It is very important that travelers wear heavy under- garments and outside wraps, as the weather is very changeable. The residents wear the same weight of undergarments the year round. The climate is very healthy, but cannot be recommended for pei sons troubled with any lung trouble. One need never be afraid of being sunstruck, or of being bitten by mad dogs. COLUMBIA On west side of Powell street, above THEATRE Market, opposite Baldwin Hotel. It was first opened as Stockwell's Theatre. It is a pretty little theatre, seating 1400. COLUMBO This is where the Italian vegetables and MARKET garden-truck are disposed of, by the farmers, to the vegetable and fruit-venders, who have regular routes of customers. It is a large, spacious building with a street, or bro i< passage way. extending from block to block, on boll sides of which are open stalls, where th ves^etables, etc.. are sold direct from the gardens. The produce is hauled there during the night and early morning, so as to be 40 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE fresh and ready for the day's sales. The market covers half a block and extends from Front to Davis streets. ^....^., . ..^_^ The hotels all have coaches to con- CONVEYANCES , . *u ^ . j vey guests from the depots and landings, free of charge; or if you are not going to stop at any of the various hotels, the street-car lines traverse the city in all directions, and upon inquiry of any of the police officers on duty at the depots, you will ascertain the most direct line, or the coupes or carriages will convey you to your destination, charges as below enu- merated: — Within district bounded by Broadway, Gough, and Twelfth Streets, and the City Front, or for one mile. Ong.kors^ Coupi hand-baggage free. ^'^or^CarrmgT^' 1 1 00. One, or two passengers. $1-50 More than two passengers .. 2.00 .25. Each additional mile (each passenger).. 25 1.50. ( ailing and Shopping, first hour . 2.00 1.00. Calling and Shopping, subsequent hour 1.50 3.00. Theat res, Balls, and Parties, both ways reserved 4.00 3.00. Weddings 400 2.00. German Hospital 2.50 2.00. City and County Hospital 250 2.50. St. Luke's Hospital 3.00 3.50. Funerals, three hours. 400 Funerals, over three hours, by the hour Funerals — To City Cemetery 5.00 Funerals— To Holy Cross Cemetery 6.00 2.50. Black Point 3.00 3.00. Oakland Point (ferriage extra) 4.00 4.00. Villa 5.00 4.00. Park Drive 500 5.00 Park Drive and to end of Heach Road 700 6.00. Ingleside, z/z'a Park 800 6.00. Cliff House, z/m Park and return 8.00 Cliff House, z/za Park and return, z//a Ingleside 1000 4.00. Alms Heuse 5.00 3.00. Presidio 4.00 4.00. Presidio and Fort Poitit. S 00 500. Presidio and Fort Point Drive. .. 6.00 7.00. Presidio, Fort Point, and Park Drive 10.00 Presidio, Fort Point, Cliff House, and Park Drive . . 10.00 14-Mile House 12.00 .. ^.. _. ..« occupies comfortable quarters CONCORDIA CLUB . ^ a a . . m a new and modern structure at the southeast corner of Van Ness avenue ?nd Post streets. The building is four stories high, and built of brick and sandstone. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 41 CROCKER occupying^ the gore at intersection of Post, BUILDING Montgomery, and Market streets, is a symmetrical structure, of Rocklin granite, light-pressed brick, and terra-cotta ornamentations. The ground-floor is occupied by the Crocker-Wool- worth National Bank and Shreve & Co., jewelers, while the u[>per stories are devoted to offices, of which there are over 250. It is eleven stories high, the lower two of which are of granite. The finishing of the main entrance, which extends from Market to Post streets, is of a rich, brown marble; on the left are three elevators, of modern construction, while, directly opposite, is a grand staircase, leading to the second story. It was constructed in 1891-92. The building has a frontage of 158 feet on Market street and 174 feet on Post, and is over 130 feet high. The cost was $1,000,000. Paper money (greenbacks and Na- tional Bank notes) is looked on with considerable suspicion, there being very little of that commodity used on this coast, — gold and silver being used universally. Copper coins are seldom seen, and not commonly used in the daily purchases, except at the Post Office. Foreign money is not current in the United States, but can be exchanged at the various money-brokers. ^ ^..^.. ..^..^^ The United States Custom House CUSTOM HOUSE • *u * a occupies the two upper floors of the Post Office building, at the corner of Washington and Battery streets, with an entrance on Battery. _. r^^Lj^..«.^,-<-. are of rare occurrence. A strange EARTHQUAKES , . . ^ and erroneous impression seems to have gained considerable credence, that severe shocks of earthquakts are experienced in San Francisco. For the past half century there are not known to have 42 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE been more than half a dozen lives lost from the eflfects of earthquakes, while in the New England and Middle States, and in the Mississippi Valley, hundreds are killed annu- ally by sunstroke, lightning, hurricanes, and tornadoes, in addition to the millions of dollars' worth of property destroyed by tornadoes and blizzards. F. M. DeWITT Dealer in New, Old, Rare, Scarce 3ooks For Dealers, Collectors, and Libraries Are you a collector of First or Karly Editions, Biography, Art, Travels, Histor}^ Americana or Local Histories, Etc., Etc., Etc.? Send me your list of wants, and, having the best of facilities of picking up books, I may happen onto 3^our wants while searching for others. Correspondents in All the Book Centers of the World Pacific Coast Histories and Publications a Specialty FREDERIC M. DcWITT Dealer in Books 318 POST STREET SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. THE. ELMPORIUM The Emporium, on the south side of Market Street, between Fourth and Fifth, is the largest Department Store in California, and in its architectural features is the handsomest in the world. The store prf^pcr occupies a floor space of nine acres, magnificently equipped with mahogany counters and shelving, the bases of which are finished with Tennessee marble. A band-stand of ornamental bronze, is located in the center of the building, immediately under a magnificent dome which is lOO feet high. The store is lighted at night with 560 arc and 10,000 incandescent lights, which make it a veritable fairy palace. There are from 1,500 to 2,000 employees, according to the season of the year. There are sixty departments, selling everything wanted for home or per-onal use. Among the innovations of this great store are a cafe to dine in; public long distance telephones; luxuriously appointed free parlors, furnished with free newspapers periodicals and stationery; a branch United States Money-order Post-office; Western Union Telegraph Office; nursery for small children; emergency hospital and trained nurse; free parcel and check room; fast running elevators; barber shop; chiropodi.-it and masseur; ladies' hair dressing and manicur- ing department; in fact every modern luxury and convenience for shoppers. All Market Street cars stop at the imposing entrance, which is of grand dimensions, being 45 feet high by 25 feet wide. It is of massive bronze and Frenth plate-glass, and i- considered one of the handsomest specimens of the bronze-makers' art in .\merica. The Emporium, Market Street 3a TO SAN FRANCISCO. 43 " FXAMIN FR»» ^'^^ ^^^ P'rancisco *'Examiner" is the leading exponent of the principles of Democracy on the Pacific Coast. Its offices are loca- ted in the rotunda of the Hearst building ; an eight-story structure on the southeast corner of Market and Third streets. The loggias along the top stories, with their dec- orated columns, and the ornamented windows of the second story break the severity of the exterior. The building is of the Spanish Renaissance style of archi- tecture. FARALLONE (pronounced fair-al-jo'-nais) consist ISLANDS Qf gj-5 rugged and picturesque rocky islands, about twenty-six miles west of the Golden Gate. They appear to have been formed by some volcanic eruption. The largest of the group, nearly one mile in diameter, is to the south, and rises 348 feet. On the extreme summit there is a tower, seventeen feet high, in which there is a light-house station, with a revolving light, with a flash of ten seconds' duration each minute. There is also a fog-whistle or horn, of curious construction. A huge horn or trumpet is placed with the large end inserted in one of the many caves on the island, and as the waves rush into the aperture, they force the wind through the horn, thus blowing the whistle. Large herds of sea-lions make their homes on, or about, the islands, which are also inhabited by innumerable flocks of sea-gulls and murres. During the summer, they are to be seen in large num- bers, breeding and laying eggs in most any convenient spot on the bare rocks. Large quantities of these eggs are gathered and sold in the markets for cooking pur- poses. The eggs are much sought after by tourists, on account of their size and peculiar appearance. The other islands are smaller, being mere pointed rocks. North and south, islands are six and one-half miles apart 44 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE FERRY, BAY, AND OAKLAND and all points north, RIVER STEAMERS q^^i^ and south, via Southern Pacific, — Union Ferry Depot, Broad Gauge. Alameda, Newark, San Jose, Los Gatos, Big Trees, and Santa Cruz. Union Ferry Depot, Narrow Gauge. Berkeley, Union Ferry Depot, Broad Gauge. Sausalito, San Rafael, Camp Taylor, Cazadero, and all points on the N. P. C. R. R., Union Ferry Depot. TiBURON, San Rafael, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sonoma, Ukiah, and all points on California and Northwestern Ry., Union Ferry Depot. Point Richmond, Antioch, Stockton, and all points south and east, via Santa Fe system, Union Ferry Depot. Vallejo and Mare Island. — Steamer " Monticello," Pier 2; " Herald," Market Street wharf, south of ferry; " Sunol," Pier 3. Sacramento River Points. — Steamers Market .Street wharf, south of ferry. San Joaquin River Points. — Stockton, etc., Pier i. Petaluma. — Steamer from bulkhead, Washington St. Napa. — Steamers from Pier 3. Alviso and San Jose. — Steamer from bulkhead, Jackson Street. RAILROAD DEPOTS. South KKN Pacific, LInion Ferry Depot, via ferry- boat to Oakland, for Portland and points along 'Shasta Route ; " for all points east of Sacramento, via " Ogden Route ;" Los Angeles, and all points south and east, via "Sunset Route;" and for Vallejo, Napa, Calistoga, Santa Rosa, Stockton, San Jose, and Santa Cruz. Third and Townsend Streets, for San Jose, Monte- rey, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and all points along the new " Coast Line." Santa Fe, Union Ferry Depot, via ferry-boat to Point Richmond for Stockton. Fresno, Los Angeles, and all points along the " Santa Fe Systems." Pacific Coast Steamship {^ r^r^^r^'^ww.r Steamships leave Broadway V^UIIlUclliy Wharves, San Francisco SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA ROUTE For Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and vSan Diego.— The express steamers '"Santa Rosa" and "State of California.'— Sundays and Wednesdays, at 9 a. m. For Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Santa Cruz, Monterey. San Luis Obispo, Ventura, Ktc— steamers "Bonita" and "Coos Bay."— 9 a. m. every fourth day. Steamship " cspokane " SAN FRANCISCO-HUMBOLDT BAY ROUTE For Kureka, — steamer "Pomona," — every fifth day at 1:30 p. ni. SAN FRANCISCO-MEXICAN ROUTE For Ensenada,San Jose del Cabo, Mazatlan, Altata, Santa Rosalia, andGuaymas, — steamer "Curacao," — 10 a. m., seventh of each month. SAN FRANCISCO-B. C. AND PUGET SOUND ROUTE For Victoria, Port Townsend, Seattle, Tacoma, Vancouver, Etc. — Steamer "Queen," "City of Puebla," or "Umatilla," — every fifth day, at II a. m. SOUTH-EASTERN ALASKA ROUTE For K etchikan, Wr^ngel, Juneau, Treadwell s, Douglas City, Skag- uay, Ktc. Express steamers leave Seattle every fifth day at 9 p ni. Intermediate steamers every few days. Passengers from San Frau- ci.sco for Alaska, change steamers at Seattle. NOME ROUTE For Nome, — steamers "Senator" and "Valencia." Will leave Seattle June i and June 7, respectively, and fortnightly thereafter during the season. Right is reserved to change steamers or sailing dates. For further information obtain folder and other printed matter. Ticket Office 4 NEW MONTGOMERY STREET S^orm.^ GooDALL, Perkins & Co., General Agents 10 MARKET STREET SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. TO SAN FRANCISCO. oriT ^^^ Union Ferry Depot recently com- pleted at the foot of Market Street, fittingly keeps pace with the steady progress San Fran- cisco has made within the past fifty years. The ground over which this structure is built is what is called "made ground " (see page 107). The west or shore front is of a soft-colored sandstone from Colusa County, Cal. There is a continuous arcade across the front (659 feet), from which are the entrances to the various ferries and the bag- gage-rooms. From these entrances you pass into the waiting-rooms and on onto the lower decks of the boats. South of the main stairways are the ferries going to Oak- land, Alameda and Berkeley, and to all points east ; while to the north are the ferries to Sausalito and Tiburon. On either side of the main exit are stairways leading to the Grand Nave, 656 feet long by 48 feet wide. The floor is finished in Mosaic, as is also the Grand Seal of the State of California, at the head of the stairways, while on the sides is a wainscoting of Tennessee marble. Along the apex of the roof, which is 42 feet high, runs a skylight £4 feet wide. From the Grand Nave you pass onto the upper decks of the boats. On the opposite side, to the south, are the offices of the Harbor Commissioners, while beyond the stairways is station "D" of the post- office. Above the Harbor Commissioners' offices is located the display of the State Board of Trade (see page 21), while in the north front is the State Mining Bureau (see page 71) ; these exhibits are well worth see- ing. Above the main exit rises a grand clock-tower, 32 feet square and 245 ftet high. The outer or day dial is 22 feet in diameter, and has numerals 3 feet long, while the inner or nijiht dial is 16 feet in diameter. A time ball, operated from Mare Island, drops at noon from the staff above. The building was erected by the State Board of Harbor Commissioners in 1896 at an expense of over |i, 000.000. In the main it is 659 feet long by 156 feet in width. Ferry Pa.rcel Depository apcl New? Sta^rpd Ezistcro Dziily Pziper^ Fresh California Fruits Choice Czvo^Jies Irpport^d and Dorn^stic Ci5[^r5 I^ZipS ^0^ Guides of San Francisco apd Vicinity Ferry New^ 5t2ipcl Upior? Ferry Depot Foot of /*\arKet St. Sap Francisco POSTER €r OREAR, Proprietors TO SAN FRANCISCO. 45 California and Northwestern Ry., l^nion Ferry Depot, via ferry-boat to Tiburon, for San Rafael, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Ukiah, and all way points; also Sonoma and Glen Ellen. North Pacific Coast R. R., Union Ferry Depot, via ferry-boat to Sausalito, for San Rafael, Cami) Taylor, Cazadero, and way points. Mt. Tamalpais Scenic Railway, Union Ferry Depot, via ferry-boat to Sausalito for Mill Valley and Mt. Tamalpais. DONAHUE At the gore junction Market, Battery and FOUNTAIN Bush Streets, was erected by a bequest of J. Mervyn Donahue, of |25,ooo, for a fountain to be erected in memory of his father, Peter Donahue, a pioneer machinist and founder of the Union Iron Works, and dedicated to the mechanics of San Francisco. It is a beautiful and artistic piece of bronze casting, designed by Doug;las Tilden and cast in this city. It was unveiled May 15, 1901, during President William McKinley's visit to this city. . Oakland Mole, on the eastern side of the bay, FERRY is the terminus for all transcontinental lines. There the passengers are transferred to the ferry-boats, which convey them across the bay to the ferry depots, at the foot of Market street. These boats (there being two lines running to the Oakland side) carry passengers either way for ten cents. Thousands of passengers travel across the ferry, — San Francisco being in many respects the same to Oakland, and Alameda, and the numerous towns across the bay as New York is to Brooklyn, Jersey City, etc. Tiiere are other ferries between Sausalito, Tiburon, and Vallejo, all of which land at the foot of Market street. The ferry-boats plying on the bay are considered the finest in the world, being luxuriously furnished, and in every way equipped for the comfort of the passengers. 46 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE The trip across to Oakland pier is about four miles, and consumes about eighteen to twenty minutes. Boats !• ave every half hour. There is in course of construction at the ferry-landing, foot of Market street, a Union Depot, of great magnitude. ^.„^ ,^.-„« ,^^, -,--..-,. »s one of the best-equipped FIRE DEPARTMENT . ,, tt -,- ^ c^ . -ru m the United States. There are thirty tiiree engine and hose-cart companies, seven truck companies, seven chemical engines, one water- tower, one monitor battery, two fire-boats; in addition to which there is the Underwriters' Fire Patrol, a com- pany kept up by the various insurance companies, for the purpose of protecting in-ured goods and buildings. Keys for fire-alarm boxes are to be found in the immediate neighborhood. Location of keys is generally printed on a card above each box. As an extra precaution, boxes have been placed in most of the public schools. FIRST COIMGREGA- on southeast corner of Post and TIONAL CHURCH Mason streets, is a substantial brick edifice, with a spire rising 235 feet above the side- walk. The building was constructed at a cost of 150,000. FIRST UNITARIAN corner Geary and Franklin CHURCH streets. This is the church the Rev. Thos. Starr King presided over,— he having arrived here from Boston, with his family, April 28, 860 This society was organized September, 1850, and held its meetings on west side of Stockton street, between Clay and Sacramento, and afterwards on south side of Geary street, between Grant avenue and Stockton, from whence they moved to their present home. The remains of Rev. Thos. Starr King are buried in front of the church. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 47 FLOOD BUILDING «" c^^''"^'- «'" Market and Fonrih streets, was erected in 1S87, and is five stories high, the npper ones being devoted to offices. Adjoinin.!:^;-, on Market-street side, is the Academy of Sciences Building, while to rear, and facing on Fourth street, is the Pioneer Building. r-. ^. .,,-»<-. Street-venders can be seen at all promi FLOWERS ^ J r .J * 1 n/f 1 nent and frequented spots along Market Kearny, and Geary streets, selling flowers Flowers are plentiful tiie year round, and can be seen on a stroll through the Park, or in the front gardens a< ;'ou pass on the street-cars. • Grass grows the year round. During the foggy season, — July, August, and September, — the fogs present a very pretty pic- ture, floating in, as they do, through the Golden Gate, following closely the hills on the Marin shore, and en- veloping the bay in a long, low line of white mist, appar- ently impenetrable. The tug-boats, with their tows slowly feeling their way through, and suddenly peeping into sight on the outer edge of the bank, present a pretty picture. The action of the fog is very peculiar. Upon waking in the morning, the city is found to be covered with a heavy, damp fog, and by nine o'clock it has all disap- peared, and it is as lovely as a midsummer day; and then, again, by five the fog is seen rolling in, in vast volumes, and the city is again enveloped in this heavy mist, all again disappearing by eight or nine o'clock in the evening. At times, the lerry-boats are obliged to make hourly trips, on account of the density of the fogs. ...^^.. situated at Black Point, end of Van FORT MASON ., . Ness avenue, is a one-company post (heavy artillery). 48 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE FORT on the southeast point of the WIN FIELD SCOTT Golden Gate, is quite interest- ing. It was six years building — commenced in 1854 and completed in i860, at an expense of |2,ooo,ooo. It has since been abandoned, it being deemed unsafe and inadequate. It is built of brick and granite blocks, with a filling between of earth. It resembles Fort Sumter, in Charleston Harbor, S. C. The Government has placed a light-house station on the top of the fort, with a fixed white light of varying red flashes, and a fog station (bell), with keeper's houses just to rear and above the fort. There was formerly a small Mexican fort (Blanco) where the present fort now stands. is located on the second floor of PUBLIC LIBRARY j^e northeast wing of the City Hall; entrance on McAllister street, off* Hyde. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., and contains 150,000 volumes, besides being supplied with newspapers from all over the world. It has five branches throughout the city. ■ The main room is 60 x 75 feet, with large light gallery above for reading. The reference room is well supplied with many rare and valuable publications. The Library was first opened in June, 1879, with a stock of 6000 volumes, in the old California Theatre building. ^n.r...^ij ...rN^n.-^it. *s locEtcd south sidc of Point FRENCH HOSPITAL . , , . ^..,. Lobos avenue, between Fifth and Sixth avenues. The main building faces the north, and is connected with the wings by long wards. Thou- sands of patients have been treated within its walls, many of whom have been permanently cured, or greatly relieved. It is one of the best equipped institutions of its kind on the Pacific Coast. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 49 GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY Incorporated 1891, for OF CALIFORNIA the purpose of accu- mulating geographical knowledge and the dissemination of same It occupies rooms in the Academy of Sciences Building. GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY is located in the San OF THE PACIFIC Francisco Stock and Exchange Building. It was organized in 1881 for the purpose of encouraging geographical exploration and discovery; to accumulate various works, maps, and charts relating to the Pacific Coast and Islands. GERMAN BENEVOLENT is one of the most im- SOCIETY portant charitable insti- tutions in California. It was established in 1854, since which time it has expended $350,000. It owns and con- trols the German Hospital. GERMAN HOSPITAL situated on the block bound- ed by Ridley and Fourteenth, Noe and Castro streets, holds the front rank of the hos- pitals in the city. It can accommodate 300 patients. All members of the German Benevolent Society are treated free, while non-members are charged from two dollars per day up, according to accommodations. Its medical staff is composed of some very able and scientific physicians. GERMAN SAVINGS AND occupies a handsome LOAN SOCIETY granite srructure, with a two-story front, on north side of California, between Kearny and Montgomery streets, — just below the San Francisco Savings Union. It is a model of taste and convenience, and ranks with the finest constructed banks of the country. The two- story front runs back but a short distance, the balance of the building being but one-story high, admitting of superb lighting from the roof. 50 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE GOAT ISLAND ^ ''''''!' ^"'"\ 'f"" "j^^^' .^'^ three miles to east of ban Francisco. It is seven-eighths i)( a mile long by live-eighths of a mile wide, and contains about 350 acres. It is 340 feel high, and is part of San Francisco County It is passed by the Oakland and Alameda ferry-boats. On it is stationed a torpedo and light-house ouifiiiing station, also a fog-station (bell) and light-house. Very little grass grows on the island, on account of its exposed position. It was proposed at one time to level off the island and use it as the terminus of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, connecting with the Oakland shore by a bridge, but the Government put a stop to it. Its name is of peculiar origin. Many vessels which arrived from the southern ports brought goats as a supply of fresh meats. After arriving in port, the goats which were lefi were turned loose on the island for fresh pasturage, the island being then covered with a dense shrub. In a short time it came to be known as Goat Island. _ The Golden Gate is the natural GOLDEN GATE , a .^ ^ r ,u ^ ■ water-way and outlet of the drain- age of the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, and connects the waters of San Francisco Bay with the Pacific Ocean. The channel has a depth of from twenty-two to sixty-three fathoms, while the balance averages five to thirty fathoms. It is deepest between Lime Point and Fort Point, — sixty-three fathoms. The tide has a rise of eight feet. The hills of Marin County come to an abrupt ending, and present a bold and rugged shore on the north, while the south shore, from Point Lobos to Baker's Beach, presents a similar sight; while beyond, to the fort, is a long stretch of sandy beach. There are two natural heads or Land's Ends, at both the outer and inner gates. Point Bonita (with its light- house and fog-siren) guards the outer head on the TO SAN FRANCISCO. 51 north, while Point Lobos, with its signal station (Mer- chants' Exchange outer station), is on the outer head on the south. The inner heads are guarded on the north by Lime Point, a fog-whistle and, on the south, by Fort Winfield Scott, a huge brick structure, now abandoned. On the bluffs, above both Lime Point and Fort Winfield Scott, are heavy land batteries of the latest improved breech- loading guns. The strait is two and three-fourths miles long and two and one-half miles across t.om Point Lobos to Point Bonita, while at the inner hi ad it is only one mile across. Point Bonita is three miles directly to the west of Fort Point. Six miles to west of the entrance is the Bar, a circular bank of sand, extending from shore to shore According to the traditions of the Indians, first met with upon the larding of the early explorers and navi- gators on the shores of California, the bay of San Fran- cisco was once a vast inland sea, which found an outlet to the ocean by way of Monterey Bay. The Golden Gate was formed by a severe upheaval, or earthquake, thus providing for the waters of the bay and valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin another outlet. The name Golden Gate (or Chrysopaloe) first appears to have been applied to it by General (then Colonel j Fremont, in 1848, in his geographical memoir of Califor- nia, and is descriptive not of the gold-bearing districts, but of the rich and fertile country on the shores of the bay, although it is more suggestive of the former. ^^, ^^^, /^A-.-e. ««p,.^ commences three and a half GOLDEN GATE PARK ., . . .. d 1 miles west from the Palace Hotel, and extends in a westerly direction three miles to the ocean beach. It is one-half mile wide, and contains 1013 acres. Among the various points of interest in the Park are, 52 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE the Conservatory, Children's Play-ground and House, Aviary, Deer and Buffalo Paddocks, Strawberry Hill and Stow Lake, Museum, etc. (See each under its separate heading. ) The Panhandle is 275 feet wide by 3834 feet long. The Park owes its existence to an Act of the State Legislature, dated April 4, 1870, there having then been appointed a Board of Park Commissioners. Roads were laid out and macadamized, sand-hills leveled down, and gullies filled in. Lawns of grass and flower-beds were laid out in all directions, until now it is one of the grandest and largest parks in the world, being only surpassed in size by the Bois de Boulogne, near Paris, and the Fairmount Park, in Philadelphia. It is wonderfully true that, as you see it to-day, so it is the year round. Long, sloping lawns of green grass, artis- tically arranged flower-beds, and the trees and shrubs are always the same. Open-air concerts are held at the music-stand Saturday and Sunday afternoons. There are several fine statues to be seen in the Park — the Key, Garfield, Halleck, Thomas Starr King, and others. There are numerous entrances into the Park, from each side as well as through the main avenue, through the panhandle. All the street-car lines have a terminus at the Park, either through their own line^ or transfer- ring. The Conservatory, built in 1878, was partially (cen- tral dome) destroyed by fire in 1882, and rebuilt in 1883 by a donation from the late Chas. Crocker. It is 60 x 250 feet, with a dome fifty-eight feet high, and covered entirely wiih glass. It is modeled after the Royal Con- servatory at Kew, England. 26,000 square feet of glass, weighing twenty-five tons, and two tons of putty were used in the construction of the building. The interior presents a bewildering scene of refreshing beauty. Rare exotics TO SAN FRANCISCO. 53 and orchids are growing here in rich profusion, and the fragrance is almost intoxicating in its sweetness. The Victoria regia, a highly-prized and rare water-lily, can be seen in the eastern section. It is the only one of its kind in America. From Strawberry Hill, 426 feet high, you can get a grand view of the Park and surroundings. Looking east, you can see the former site of the Midwinter Fair grounds, — the Grand Court and Pine Arts Building and Annex (now the Museum) being all that is left of the grand exposition. The Conservatory, Aviary, Deer Paddock, Starr King and Key monuments, and Music Stand can also be seen; while to the north, looking over a long, narrow strip of sand, you can see Lime Point, and vessels passing through the Golden Gate. The Childs' Monument (Prayer Book Cross) is just to the left. Looking west, you can see a labyrinth of finely macadamized roads, leading to the ocean beach, CliflF House, and Sutro Heights. On a clear day, the Faral- lones can be distinctly discerned. An elegant picture appears on the horizon on the setting of the sun. To the south can be seen the Olympic Club Grounds, just beyond the confines of the Park, while inside are the engine-houses and pumps that supply the reservoir on the side of the hill and the lake with water. The Clar- endon Heights form a picturesque background. The Observatory was built and presented by Hon. Thos. U. Sweeny to the Park Commissioners in 1891. There is a fine drive leading to the summit, or where the Observa- tory stands. The Cascade presents a very romantic sight as it leaps and plunges down the side of the hill, until its force is spent upon reaching the base, where it flows into the lake which surrounds the hill. The Aviary is a large cage, covered with glass and wire-gauze. In its large area squirrels, quail, and birds of all descriptions, \^'ith plumage of gorgeous coloring, 3b 54 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE sport and gambol as if in their native elements and climes. The Museum was presented to the Park Commis- sioners February 23, 1895, by the Board of Directors of the Midwinter Fair. The greater portion of the exhibit was purchased with the proceeds of the Exposition. Among some of the exhibits are a fine collection of birds, Indian relics, paintings, Chinese curios, coins, and relics of every description. One of the principal features is the Colonial Room, The greater portion of this exhibit is from the private collection of C. P. Wilcomb, and consists of furniture, etc., of our grandfathers' time. The approach to the building is guarded on either side by two sphinxes. In the center is a colossal Venetian vase, designed by Gustave Dor6. The Japanese Garden, a short distance from the Museum, is one of the most unique and attractive spots in the Park. It was laid out by Japanese gardeners at the time of the Midwinter Fair, and at its close was pre- sented to the Park Commissioners by Mr. G. T. Marsh. The Japanese are still in charge. The gateway entrance is a fine example of Oriental workmanship, being con- structed without a nail. The ponds, with their gold- fish, the miniature streams and waterfalls, the trees and plants, the storks, the tea-houses and their courteous and picturesque attendants, form an exhibit not to be neglected by any one who would see a genuine bit of Japan without crossing the Pacific. Stow Lake, named after Park Commissioner Stow, lies at, and surrounds, the base of Strawberry Hill. It is two miles around, and is spanned by two artistic bridges, one a natural, and the other after the Roman style. Row-boats can be hired for a nominal sum. The boat-house is on the northwest arm of the lake. There are numerous small islands in the lake, some of which are wooded, and others bare, rocky, and bleak, TO SAN FRANCISCO. 55 while others are covered with a thick foliage. They add to the romantic picturesqueness of the lake. Round the shores of the lake are to be seen large quan- tities of pampas grass and foliage. The eastern end, opposite the falls, is the home of large flocks of ducks and divers. There are also a number of black and white swans. Huntington Falls present a very picturesque and romantic sight falling from the ridge of Strawberry Hill down to the lake below, over numerous ledges and boulders. They were presented to the Park by C. P. Huntington, and cost $25,000. Thomas Starr King Monument is to the west of the Aviary. It is a brown statue of the dead patriot, as he stands delivering a speech. It stands upon a pedes- tal of red granite, facing the west. He was an arduous worker for the good of the community and the perpetuity of the Union, as well as being one of the most eloquent orators in the land. He died suddenly, in March, 1864, in his fortieth year. Prayer Book Cross. Just to the north of Straw- berry Hill, off the main road, stands a huge Celtic cross, designed after the ancient cross of Monasterboice. It is forty feet high, and made of Colorado sandstone, richly carved. It was erected under the auspices of the Episcopal Diocese of Northern California, to commemorate the first Christian service in the English tongue on our coast (Drake's Bay, June 24, 1579). It was erected at the expense of the late Geo. W. Childs, of Philadelphia (editor of the Ledger), at the opening of the Midwinter Fair, in 1894, and is frequently referred to as the Childs' Monument. Francis Scott Key Monument is one of the finest pieces of statuary in the United States, if not in the world, — dedicated to the memory of the author of our national hymn, "The Star-spangled Banner." It was 56 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE designed by the late W. W. Story, the famous American sculptor, author, and lawyer, who so long resided in Italy. It was bequeathed to the Park by the late James Lick. Halleck Monument stands just off the main drive (south), near the Garfield Monument, somewhat hidden from view by the surrounding trees and shrubbery. It is carved out of gray granite. It was erected by **his best friend," as a tribute to his memory. At the base are a chapeau, belt, crossed saber, and sheath. Grant Monument. Opposite the entrance to the Museum stands a monument erected to the memory of General U. S. Grant. It is of granite, with a bronze bust of General Grant. On the granite pedestal, in bronze relief, are various battle scenes; on the four cor- ners are shields, bearing the names of General Grant's greatest battles. Near the statue is a striking bronze figure of a man turning the handle of a wine press. It forms a drinking fountain, and was a part of the Midwinter Fair. Garfield Monument. On a small eminence, to the south of the conservatory, stands the Garfield Monument, a bronze figure, ten feet high, of Garfield as he delivered his inaugural address on the Capitol steps at Washington. The figure stands on a pedestal fourteen feet high, at the base of which sits Columbia, mourning for her dead. There are also a number of bas reliefs, showing Garfield in the several events of his career. Corner-stone laid August 24, 1883. Artist and sculptor, F. Happersberger. It was erected with the offerings of a grateful people. The Baseball Pitcher, a statue of bronze, stands just south of the main drive, near the Garfield Monu- ment. It was designed and executed by Douglas Tilden, a deaf mute. It is a life-size figure of a basebaU TO SAN FRANCISCO. 57 pitcher, just about to throw the ball. It stands on a brown sandstone base, and is a work of rare merit. Another spot of interest to tourists, as well as to our native-born, is in Concert Valley, on the outskirts of the Midwinter Fair site. On October 19, 1896, under the auspices of Sequoia Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, there was planted in the shape of a bended bow, 450 feet in length, a tree from each of the original thirteen States. New Hampshire is represented by a maple; Massachusetts, an elm; Dela- ware, a red maple; Pennsylvania, a cedar (from en- trenchments at Valley Forge); Georgia, a catalpa; Virginia, a tree from grave of Thomas Jefferson; Connecticut, an oak; New Jersey, a linden (from Wash- ington's Headquarters); Rhode Island, chestnut; New York, white oak. The ceremonies were very fitting, and commemorated the surrender at Yorktown of Lord Cornwallis. The Buffalo Paddock is in the possession of eight buffaloes, several of which were born and raised on the grounds. On the opposite side of the road is a monstrous California grizzly bear, which was presented to the Park by the San Francisco "Examiner" in 1894. It is the largest grizzly bear in captivity. Passing on, we come to the deer-glen, in which can be seen several species ol the deer, some elk, and kangaroos. They are very tame, and will eat from your hand. Beyond the glen is an artistic iron bridge, which enables people to reach the music-stand without endangering their lives from the passing teams and bicycles, which on Sundays and holidays are as thick as bees. Music Stand. In front of the Music Stand are ar- ranged long rows of benches, where one can sit and listen to the music. The band plays every Saturday and Sunday afternoon; and these open-air concerts are greatly appreciated by all who hear them. Upon leav- 5b SOUVENIR AND GUIDE ing the Music Stand, you pass on to the right, leaving the Key Monument on the left, to the Children's House and Play Grounds. This por- tion of the Park has been reserved for the children as a pleasure-ground. The house was erected in 1885, and presented by the late William Sharon to the Park Com missioners for the children. A cup of tea and a lighi lunch can be had here. On the grounds are countless swings, and spring-boards, and a merry-go-round, with its ever-romping horses and chariots, — of never-ceasing delight to the children. In addition, there are real little donkeys, upon which the children can ride, and little carts drawn by goats. A noticeable fact is the absence of the bold-lettered signs, "Keep off the grass." No- where in the Park are these familiar signs to be seen. Lake Alvord. At the Haight-street entrance of the Park is a very pretty little spot, called Lake Alvord, after Park Commissioner William Alvord. It is sur- rounded by artistically arranged rocks, ferns, and pam- pas grass, which present a very romantic appearance. A fountain plays from its center, and under its sprays gambol rare specimens of swans. Commissioners' Lodge. On the right, where the panhandle connects with the Park proper, is to be seen the Lodge of the Park Commissioners. It is an artistic two-story building of rock and sandstone, with a tiled roof. The former grand court of the Midwinter Fair has been converted into a little forest of trees, with pathways leading through. A tunnel connects with the ground adjoining the Aviary. The concourse around has been laid out in several drives, with palm trees on either side. The main drive passes over an arched bridge at the main entrance to the old Midwinter Fair grounds, to the left of which is the Memorial Art Museum. This bridge of granite is the most perfect arched bridge on the conti- nent, and cost |3o,cx)o. TO SAN FRANCISCO. New Music Stand. — On the site of the Adminis- tration Building of the Midwinter Fair, and facing the Grand Court, is a music stand of rare beauty and magnificence; it is of gray sandstone from Colusa County, and designed after the Corinthian style of archi- tecture. Flanking the niche in which the musicians sit, are peristyles of beautiful proportions. Total frontage of entire structure is 240 feet. It was given to the Park Com- missioners by Hon. Claus Spreckels, and cost over |75,ooo. Park Bus. — A delightful drive of forty-five minutes can be had through the Park by taking one of the Park buses. Starting from the Stanyan Street entrance (and Sundays only from Fulton Street entrance), the drive takes you through the most interesting parts, stopping first at the Museum, then at Stow Lake, Buffalo Paddock, Chil- dren's Playground, and on back to point of beginning. Coupon tickets are furnished, permitting you to stop over at any of above-mentioned places, continuing on, on any of the buses following. Bus runs from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. Fare, round trip, 10 cents. GOVERNMENT Shortly after the breaking out of the ^^^*^ Spanish- American War in 1898, and the departure of troops for the scene of action in the Philippines, it was demonstrated that it was necessary that the fast-increasing transport service of the United States Army have a permanent and covered wharf Folsom Street wharf (Pier i2j, just then completed, was turned over to its exclusive use. It is a modern concrete-pier wharf, fully adapted, being covered and having deep wa- ter on either side. From this wharf thousands of soldiers have taken ship for Guam, the Philippine and Hawaiian Islands, our island possessions in the Far East and the Pacific. A Specialty Books in ENGLISH GERMAN FRENCH SPANISH Also a FINE LINE of CUTLERY And LEATHER GOODS MAPS, GUIDE BOOKS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND SOUVENIR ALBUMS OF SAN FRAN- CISCO, CALIFORNIA, AND THE PACIFIC COAST Opposite Occidental Hotel Hanak & Hargens lOJ Montgomery St. San Francisco y Cal. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 59 _ _ is on the southeast corner of Cali- GRACE CHURCH . . , c. w . . a fornia and Stockton streets, and is therefore on the eastern slope of CaUfornia-street hill. It presents a very imposing view, and can be seen from almost anywhere down town. It was erected at a cost of |i25,ooo, the corner-stone having been laid by the late Bishop W. I. Kip, May, 1866. on the southeast corner of Market GRAND HOTEL j xt iv;r ♦ * . u and New Montgomery streets, has a frontage of 205 feet on Market street and 325 feet on New Montgomery street. It is three stories high, with a mansard roof. There is a court in the center of the building, and the rooms are so arranged as to permit the sun reaching all. The building contains about 400 rooms, and its halls and corridors are spacious and airy. A bridge, spanning New Montgomery street, connects it with the Palace Hotel. ^nn... P^ ^».^n» L.^..<^r- HOW kuown as MoROSCo's GRAND OPERA HOUSE r^ u • .1 Opera House, is on the north side of Mission street, between Third and Fourth. The stage is the largest this side of the Rocky Moun tains, being 120 feet wide by 100 feet deep. It was first opened January 17 1876. It was formerly known as Wade's Opera House, and was built at an expense of over $500,000. Its seating capacity is 1900. LJAi • ^i- iii<^-ri^i- 's on the east side of Kearny HALL OF JUSTICE ^ ^ . * ^xr u- street, between Washmgion and Merchant streets, opposite Portsmouth Square. (In course of construction; corner-stone laid December 19, 1896.) The Police Headquarters, Police Courts, Criminal Departments of the Superior Court, and the City Prison will be located in this building. The City Prison is to be located on the upper floor. The ground on which this building stands is well known to every old '49er, as it was the site of the great gambling halls of early days, where games of every description were conducted in 6o SOUVENIR AND GUIDB broad daylight. The old Jenny Lind Theatre, which was burned down and rebuilt several times, was also situated here. ^...r^n^r^ tt.r-... at the foot of Baker street, is a HARBOR VIEW ^ * c ^ _* t^ u favorite Sunday resort. It has a shooting range, and hot and cold tub and surf baths. Take Union-street cable cars, and transfer to steam-car at Baker street. The Fulton Iron Works have an exten- sive plant at this point. HEBREW ORPHAN is located on the east side ASYLUM AND of Devisadero street, between HOME SOC I ETY Hayes and Grove. It was es- lablished in 1871, for the care, relief, protection, and improvement of orphan children; also, for the care of aged Israelites who are without adequate means of support. HIBERNIA BANK «« 'he junction of Market, Jones, and McAllister streets, is con- structed of white granite, with Corinthian columns. It is one of the handsomest buildings in the city, and has a facing of 90 feet on Jones street and 129 feet on McAllis- ter street. The entrance is on the corner, and is orna- mented by graceful columns of granite. A massive bronze dome surmounts the roof over the entrance. The banking-room is spacious and finely proportioned, the walls being over thirty feet in height. t>^ L.A J- iZLm^' united States Mint. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 6r HOSPITAL FOR CHILDREN »s situated on north AND TRAINING SCHOOL side of California FOR NURSES street between Ma- ple and Cherry. It was organized in March, 1875, by a number of charitably disposed ladies, for the care of sick and destitute women and children, and was at first estab- lished at 228 Post street. As time passed, they were obliged to seek larger quarters, and having moved four times, they finally located in their own building, Febru- ary, 1887, This is the only free hospital for children on the Coast. The grounds (a fifty-vara lot) were gener ously donated by the late Nathaniel Gray, Esq. An adjoining fifty-vara lot has since been purchased. Hospital for Incurable Children. This artistic brick building, with tiled roof and stuccoed walls, broken by ragged brickwork about the window and door-frames, was erected in 1895 by the San Francisco "Examiner," through public subscriptions. In the back part of the building is a round room, covered by a glass roof, which in turn is surmounted by a dome. The building is two stories high, and connects with the Children's Hospital and Training School for Nurses, which is directly to the rear. It is located on the south side of Sacramento street, near Maple. A similar build- ing is being erected, adjoining on the west. ,, ._ (General.) It is a recognized fact that San HOTELS Francisco has, from time to time, made the greatest effort to surpass all other cities in her hold accommodations, and it must be conceded that she has largely succeeded. As far as artistic taste, elegance of appointments, and lavish expenditure go, few can com- pare with them. They are all centrally located. Choice can be made of the American and European plans. 62 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE HUNTER'S POINT about four miles southeast ol DRY- DOCK the ^ity, can be reached by a short walk from the electric cars which run over to the Potrero (Third-street extension). There are two docks, one of wood, and the other cut out of solid rock. Three years were consumed in their construction. The stone dock is 421 feet long by 120 feet wide at the top, and 60 feet wide at the bottom. Its depth of water is 22 feet, and it is capable of holding the largest warships. The cost of these docks was nearly $2,000,000. Near by is a floating dock. .... ^. ,~^.^^ is situated on the outskirts of the city, INGLESIDE . ^. ^ f .u A/r- • . . 1- at the end of the Mission-street car line, near Lake Merced. It is a favorite roadside inn, on the Ocean Road, and is quite a celebrated resort. The Pacific Coast Jockey Club has recently built a race-track just to the east of the inn. Farther down the road, on the opposite side, is the Ingleside Coursing Track. It is a very pretty drive to these places, and beyond to the beach, passing the Six-mile House. The drive can be continued to the Park or to the Cliff House. ISLANDS OF In addition to the larger islands (Angel, TH E BAY Goat, and Alcatraz), there are several others, — Red Rock, Marin Islands, Two Brothers, Two Sisters, and Mare Island, — all of which are in the north- ern arm of the bay. Marin Islands are shortly to be used as a bathing and boating adjunct to a favorite sum- mer resort in San Rafael. There is a light and fog- station on the eastern side of the Brothers, while on Mare Island, twenty-three miles distant from San Fran- cisco, is situated the United States Navy Yard. _____ was widened from Market street KEARNY STREET ^^ Broadway by an act 0/ the State Legislature in 1866. From Market street to Sutter it is one of the principal retail streets of the city. It is TO SAN FRANCISCO. 63 paved with bitumen, which does away with the noise of, passing vehicles. Some of the largest retail, clothing, shoe, and dry-goods houses are to be found on this street. LTiiv. rN.-n^^x58>^ feet, in the cen- ter of the building, which is surmounted by a skylight reaching to third story. The halls above are all tiled with marble, with a wainscoting of same material There are four elevators, which run to the top story Viith). There is also a winding staircase leading to the loth floor. The building is fire and earthquake-proof. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 71 being entirely of iron, stone, bricks, and marble. A grand panoramic view can be had from the roof, permis- sion for which can be obtained from superintendent. The United Stales Weather Bureau has its headquar- ters on the tenth floor, with the signal station on the roof. MINING BUREAU ^^^ ^^^^^ Mining Bureau is loca- ted in the north front of the Union Ferry Depot, foot of > Market street, over station "D" of the Post Office. Here can be seen a very interesting and valuable collection of minerals and curios from all parts of the State, It is well worth one's time and close attention, as great care has been taken in collecting and preserving these State treasures. The exhibit is free to the public, being open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. The United States Mint, on the northwest cor- ner of Mission and Fifth streets, is the largest mint in the United States. It is kept running the year round, and visitors are admitted daily, except Sundays and holidays, from 9 to 11:30 a.m. Competent and well informed guides are ready to impart whatever informa- tion is desired, and all visitors to the city should not miss going through the building. To the right, as you go in, is the registering room, where a fine collection of foreign and American coins can be seen while waiting your turn to be shown the interior. The building is a massive stone structure, of the (^oric-Ionic style, and is approached by a grand flight of steps of California granite. The portico is flanked by six-fluted columns. The building has a frontage of 221 >^ feet on Fifth street and ii6}4 feet on Mission street. The basement is also of California granite, while on the two stories above a blue-gray freestone from British Columbia is used. The whole rests on a concrete foundation, five feet thick. The two chimneys are each 150 feet high. The United States Branch Mint was first established 72 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE in San Francisco on Commercial street, above Mont- gomery, April 3, 1854, present site of the Sub-Treasury. 133,041,474 was coined during the year 1896. which was founded and dedi- MISSION DOLORES cated on October 8, .776, by Don Jos6 Moraga, was the second settlement on the peninsula, being preceded by the Presidio by only a few days. In fact, the former site (on a small lagoon just west of Russian Hill) was only abandoned for this on account of the high winds which prevailed there. For over fifty years the Mission was the nucleus of quite a village, it being the seat of the religious authority, its population of Indians and Mexicans fluctuating from 50 to over 400. A plank road was built out Mission street in 1851, connecting the Mission with Verba Buena on the Cove. A toll of fifty cents was levied on a horse and cart, and one dollar on four-horse teams. Another road was built at Folsom street. Both roads became free in 1858. MISSION DOLORES on Dolores, between Six- CHURCH teenth and Seventeenth streets, has been somewhat altered, both inside and out. The church is built of adobe, or unbuint bricks, dried in the sun. The whole is roofed over with what looks like stone pipe cut in two lengthwise, placed side by side, concave side up, with one placed over the edges, or joints, convex side up. In the front are several columns, extending up to the roof, while under the gable are a few small bells. The walls are three feet in thickness. The long row of adobe houses to left of the church proper has been torn down to make way for street improvements and the building ofa new cluirch. The old cemetery to the right, with its buried dead^ still lies undisturbed. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 73 of to-day is not what MONTGOMERY STREET " f , it was forty, or even twenty, years ago. During that period it was the prin- cipal retail street of the city, as well as being one of the fashionable promenades. Where you now find insurance and railroad offices, you could see the largest and finest retail stores on the coast, as well as two of the principal hotels. It will be remembered, that in 1849 the waters of the bay used to come up to this street at the corner of Jackson. All that portion to the east, lying between Broadway and Market streets, is what is called '* made ground," having been filled in with material taken from the surrounding sand hills. Montgomery street was formerly like Broadway, New York. You were always sure of finding a missing friend there. It was named after Captain J. B. Montgomery, U. S. Navy, who raised the American flag in Portsmouth Square on July 8, 1846. Among the principal buildings on the street are, the Union Trust Building, Masonic Temple, Lick House, Occidental Hotel, Mills Building, Russ House, Nevada Block, Safe Deposit Building, old Parrott Building, and the Pacific Mutual Savings Building. *..^ ..^»^..^ The finding of dead bodies of un- THE MORGUE , ..u u .u known persons m the bay or on the streets is no uncommon thing in any large city. The Coroner, being notified, removes the body to the morgue and holds the same for identification and inquest. It often happens that the body remains unidentified, in which case it is buried at the expense of the city in what is called "Potter's field." The Morgue is situated on the east side of Dunbar alley, between Washington and Merchant streets. M ISSIONS OF A complete collection of views of the CALIFORNIA twenty -one Missions of California, reproduced from the original paintings of Edwin Deakin. To be had at 326 Sutter Street, San Francisco, or of Mr. Deakin, 3100 Telegraph Avenue, Berkeley, Cal. 74 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE. in Marin County, to the MOUNT TAMALPAIS „„^,,„,^3, „f ^^^ ^:,y_ ,,^„d^ like a sentinel over the Golden Gate and the waters of San Francisco Bay. Some 2592 feet in height, it com- mands a magnificent view of the cities and towns about ihe bay, and an exhaustive view of the country to the north, east, and south of the metropolis. The journey to its summit over the Mill Valley and Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway forms the most delightful and instructive journey within a day's travel of San Francisco. The railroad is a triumph in engineering. It is eight miles in length, and rises 2400 feet, gradually winding through the canons and ravines to the summit, making in all 270 curves. The heaviest grade does not exceed seven per cent, which is considerably less than that of most electric lines in the large cities. The trip to the summit is made in less than two hours from San Francisco, and gives the sightseer a view of the shipping of San Francisco Bay, the fortified islands and harbor fortifications, a trip across the Golden Gate, and through the large redwood forests of Califor- nia, and the ascent of the mountain is one continuous series of surprises, as at different stages glimpses are had of San Francisco, the bay, the distant snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Mount Hamilton, the Cliff House, the penitentiary at San Quentin, the vast Pacific Ocean, San Rafael, Alcatrnz Island, Berkeley, Oakland, Mount St. Helena, Sausalito, the approach to the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers, Mill Valley at the base of the mountain, and majestic Mount Diablo to the east, 3848 feet above the level of the sea. The Tavern of Tamalpais, on the summit, recently recon- structed and enlarged, is fitted up handsomely, and an excellent dinner is served. Large reclining chairs on the veranda are provided for the comfort of the guests, and every courtesy is extended with genuine Californian hos- pitality. Round trip from San Francisco, ^1.90. See San Francisco daily papers for time-table. o! t/D 4-> -l-c o Ui ■M «*3 o rr o fe <1 HH •K > -t-J o Cu a; CIS (U (A (11 m o Ih •fl n ."^ ■«-> a cs (u U3 w o >. CS ■tJ c n (« 1 t/; s "rt rt d, (LI U. rt M o C Ih a ^^ Q « w-», ^^ve stands on northwest comer ot NEVADA BLOCK ,, ^ jr.-. Montgomery and Pine streets. It is four stones high, with a basement devoted to business 76 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE offices. The building is a fine specimen of architecture, and cost $500,000, which came out of the mines of Nevada. It was erected in 187 1 on the site of the old Mead House. ^^««. At the intersection of Market, NEWSPAPER GORE ^^^.^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^ear; Streets can be seen the homes of three of our leading dailies—" Call," " Chronicle," and " Examiner "—and the "News Letter," a leading weekly. Th- "Chroni- cle " is the pioneer, having been followed by the " News Letter," 1896, "Call," 1897, and the "Examiner," (See se, arate articles.) . _ can be reached by the California-street NOB HI LL cable cars, after a ride of only a few min- utes from down town. Upon alighting at Powell street, you observe to your left the residencc^ of the late Senator Stanford, an immense frame building, with a stone wall surmounted by an iron fence, and facing California street. The wall extends along Powell and Pine streets, being at the corner some thirty feet high. The residence is surrounded by a handsome garden and grass plot. The building cost in the neighborhood of $2,000,000. Just above, on corner of Taylor, is the residence of the late Mark Hopkins, now occupied by the Art Association of the University of California. The building is also frame, and with the grounds, occupies the balance of the block. A high stone fence surrounds the grounds, in which are hot-houses, arbors, and green lawns At lower end of the lot, corner Pine and Mason streets, is the stable, now used as a part of the Art Association rooms. There is an observatory, 140 feet high at top of roof, from which a grand view may be obtained. The resi- dence is reputed to have cost 12,750,000. Diagonally opposite is the residence of the late J C. Flood, a hand- some and imposing structure of Connecticut brown-stone. The grounds are laid out in flower beds and lawns of i TO SAN FRANCISCO. 77 grass. A wall of brown-stone surmounted by a solid bronze fence surrounds the grounds Beyond Is the resi- dence of the late D. D. Colton, since sold to Mr. Hunt- ington, a frame building, painted white. It is admired by many for its plain and symmetrical style ot architect- ure. On the opposite corner is the residence of the late Chas. Crocker, the railroad magnate, a large frame structure sitting well into center of block, surrounded by a well-kept garden and lawns. The whole is enclosed in a wall of Penryn granite, surmounted with an iron railing. A grand flight of granite steps, eighteen feet wide, and flanked by massive granite posts, leads up to the main entrance. Cost, 12,500,000. Next on the right is the residence of W. H. Crocker, a son of the late Chas. Crocker. It is a later style of architecture, of stone and natural wood. Diagonally opposite the Colton residence is the residence of the late A. N. Towne. It is a low structure of pressed brick and wood, but of very im- posing and comfortable appearance. A low fence of granite faces the front, while the entrance is flanked with columns of marble. On corner above is the resi- dence of Mr. George Whittell, a low, two-story structure, built of fire-prool brick, covered with stucco. An unim- paired and unsurpassed view of the southern portion of the city can here be had. OCCIDENTAL is on the east side of Montgomery *^0^^^ street, and occupies the entire block from Sutter to Bush streets. It is a substantial, four-story brick building with a cement facing. While not as mod- ern in its construction, its appointments and arrange- ments are as complete as any on the Coast, and its table cannot be surpassed. It is a noticeable fact, that the residents from the Hawaiian Islands always make the Occidental their headquarters, as do the officers of the Army and Navy temporarily in the city. 78 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE ODD FELLOWS on southwest corner of Market and BUILDING Seventh streets, is a very imposing brick structure, surmounted by an artistic clock tower. Comer-stone laid, May 14, 1884. ODD FELLOWS The Columbarium, just completed, CEMETERY fa the finest structure of its kind in the United States. It is of the Italian Renaissance style of architecture and cost 1:40,000. Niches are arranged for the reception of 5,000 urns. (See also article on page 29.) OLD PEOPLE'S HOME located on the southwest OF SAN FRANCISCO corner of Pierce and Pine streets, cares for aged inmates while alive, and provides for the funeral rites of such members as die at the home. OLYMPIC CLUB °<=^"Pi«^ «>« '^^f «« and finest, as well as the best equipped, club building of its kind in the world. The building is located on north side of Post, between Taylor and Mason streets. It is a handsome structure of brick and sand- stone, and presents a very striking contrast with the other buildings in the block. It is fitted out on an elaborate scale, being provided with a swimming tank supplied with salt water direct from the ocean, tub and steam baths, a gymnasium, hand-ball court, racing track, and billiard, card, and reading rooms. It also has an extensive exercising ground south of Golden Gate Park. There are about 2500 members. The present club was formed in 1873, it being the consolidation of the San Francisco Olympic and California Olympic Clubs. ^r^,^. ._.... -..j,-.^„^ on south side of O'Farrell, ORPHEUM THEATRE , ^ „ n j c. 1 between Powell and Stock- ton streets, is a general variety theatre, presenting some of the best specialties that come to this Coast. While as to outward appearance it is not very large, it has the largest seating capacity of any theatre in the city (2500). Sutro Baths— Main Tank PANHANDLE ^^^ ^^^^^ steps toward improving and beautifying the city were taken De- cember 27, 1899, when by a vote the city decided to bond itself for $4,550,000 for the purpose of extend- ing the present Park panhandle, between Oak and Fell Streets, eastwardly to Van Ness Avenue and Market Street; to make a boulevard between Thirteenth and Fourteenth Avenues connecting the Park with the Pre- sidio; and purchasing the two blocks on Dolores Street, opposite Mission High School; — again on December 29, 1899, bonds were voted to amount of $6,475,000 for pur- pose of constructing a new sewer system; a new City and County Hospital; and the building of seventeen new schoolhouses. Thus began the dawn of a new era in mu- nicipal art in the history of San Francisco. While as yet nothing has been done toward the intended improve- ments, they are all under advisement and will be pushed through to a speedy completion. San Francisco from an Automobile You can rent an Auto= mobile by day or hour with an experienced chauffeur in charge In no other toay can you see the city so thoroughly All E,astern and Foreign Papers Typewriting Department E,xpert Stenographers Palace Hotel News Stand MAIN E.NTRANCE, PALACE HOTEL San Francisco TO SAN FRANCISCO. 79 M.^ii-.^ •..v.^i... ^...« occupies a lar^^e five-Story PACIFIC-UNION CLUB . , ,. , building on northwest cor- ner Post and Stockton streets, opposite Union Square. It has the most luxuriant accommodations of any club- house west of Chicago. It also has a fine library, card, billiard, and reading rooms. Its halls, parlors, and various apartments are most beautiful in their appoint- ments. Pacific Club was organized 1852; Union, No vember, 1865. ««. ->*.- ..^-.^. corner of Market and New Mont PALACE HOTEL . ^ . •, gomery streets, covers two and one- half acres, being 275 feet on Market, by 350 feet on New Montgomery street, and seven stories high. The hotel is provided with reading and smoking rooms, social, ladies', and gentlemen's parlors, telegraph offices, bil- liard-rooms, five elevators, restaurant, and a grill-room, which is the most elegant dining apartment for gentle- men in the world. A ladies' grill-room has also been established. American and European plan. It is cen- trally located, and convenient to all parts of the city. Market street, on which it faces, is one of the broadest streets in the city. The building, including furniture and fixtures, cost I7, 000,000. It was projected in 1874, by the late W. C. Ralston. The ground on which it stands was purchased for 1400,000. The hotel is sup- plied with water from four artesian wells, with a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. The foundation walls arc twelve feet in thickness. The outer and inner partition- walls are of brick from base to top. The extent of cor- ridors, taken collectively, amount to some two and one- half miles. From the roof can be obtained a grand birds'- eye view of the city. The Grand Hotel is connected by a bridge over New Montgomery street. Roth hotels are under the same management. A grand court occupies the center of the building, with a carriage entrance on New Montgomery street. The court is 84 x 144 feet in- side, and has a bitumen drive for the carriages, fifty feet 8o SOUVENIR AND GUIDK in diameter. The floor of the promenade is paved with marble slabs. The west end of the court is encircled by a series of pillars, surmounted by a coping, on which are displayed tropical plants and ferns, while in the enclosure are tables and settees, at which the gentlemen and their guests may enjoy an after-dinner chat or smoke. The Doric columns present a very classic appearance. The balconies which surround the court afford a very pleasant promenade, and the tropical plants and vines present a natural ornament hard to be surpassed. A glass roof covers the space occupied by the court, and gives a soft and tempered light during the day. There are 850 rooms. The architecture is typically San Franciscan, inasmuch as the bay-windows seem to predominate. B«»B^-r-*- ».■•■ r^iKi^ occupies the site of the old PARROTT BUILDING ^^^^^ Church, on the south side of Market street, Nos. 825-855, between Fourth and Fifth. It is seven stories high. The two lower floors and basement are occupied by the Emporium, the grandest department store in the world. (See article on Emporium.) A law library is maintained for the tenants. _ -.-. at the gore of Market and PHELAN BUILDING ^.p^^J, ^,^^^^ ^„j ^rant avenue, is a large and conspicuous building, five stories high. The headquarters of the Department of Cali- fornia, United States Army, are on the fourth floor. (For list of offices, .see separate head under United States.) (or Pretty Point), opposite Point POINT BONITA Lobos, two and one-half miles to the north, forms the northern outside gate-post. It is a sharp-pointed projection of rocks. On it has been estab- lished a light-house and fog-station (siren), 126 feet above the sea. It can be seen seventeen nautical miles out to sea It was at this point that the ill-fated steamer " City TO SAN FRANCISCO. 8l of New York" struck on a dense, foggy evening, and became a total loss. The light-house was formerly in the round tower further up the hill, but the apparatus was removed to the new one out on the point below the line of fog. POINT LOBOS (o-; f"-'" ^r\"f\^l^ feet, forms the southern head of the entrance of the Golden Gate, and is a little to the north of the Cliff House. There is a signal station on the bluff, from whence communications are had with incom- ing vessels, and then forwarded to the Merchants' Exchange. POINT REYES ^^^ light-house, situated on a sharp projecting headland, about thirty- three miles up the coast, can be distinctly outlined on a pleasant day from the Cliff House or Sutro Heights. It was under the lee of this point that Sir Francis Drake anchored his ship, the "Golden Hind," June, 1579. More marine casualties have occurred in this immediate neigh- borhood than in any other on the coast. The light-house itself is a sixteen-sided tower, twenty-three feet high. It gives a white flash, with intervals of five seconds, which can be seen twenty-four miles out to sea. The station is also provided with a fog whistle. _^ . . .^. ^ .. At the close of 1848, when the rush to POPULATION ^, , , . u ^1 1 .• the gold mmes began, the population of San Francisco was about one thousand (looo). Vessels loaded with anxious miners arrived almo.'^t daily, and eve y day witnessed the departure of large bodies of men for the gold regions. Sailors would desert their vessels and leave them so light-handed that the vessels would have to lay in the stream for months without any crew to discharge their cargoes. Notwithstanding the fact that so many men were going to the mines, the small hamlet on the Cove became inadequate to hold and accommo- date the rapidly increasing population, and it was not long before the town began to spread in all directions. 82 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE towards the Mission and North Beach, and the high hills to the west. Out of a population of 298,997 in 1890, 169,800 were males, and 129,197 were females. There is a native born population of 172,186 in San Francisco. Average population per acre is 11.07; average death rate (1890), 23.61. The population in 1900 was 342,782, being the ninth largest city in the United States. ^^^^^..^..^.. ^.^..»_ is on the west side of PORTSMOUTH SQfUARE ^ . , ^, Kearny, between Clay and Washington streets. On July 8, 1846, Captain Mont- gomery, of the U. S sloop-of-war " Portsmouth," with a command of seventy sailors and marines, raised the American flag here, and a salute of twenty-one guns was fired from the '* Portsmouth," proclaiming the occupa- f.icn of Northern California by the United States. At Monterey, Commodore Sloat performed a similar cere- mony. While at Sonoma, on July loth, the same cere- mony was performed. It was then known as, and is to this day called, the "Plaza." On east side of Kearny street, opposite, stood the first custom house and the Parker House, and later, the Jenny Lind Theatre, which was sold in 1852 to the city for the City Hail This square was the scene of all public meetings and demonstrations. _ is situated on northwest corner of POST OFFICE Battery and Washington Streets. It has had several additions from time to time, until now it is an old dilapidated structure, and is anything but sug- gestive of the vast amount of business transacted through its channels. The general delivery, money-order, stamp, and registration departments. Superintendent's offices, etc., are on the right or left of the long corridor which extends to rear of the building. Mails for AustraHa, Hawaiian and South Sea Islands, China and Japan, are forwarded from here. There are some twelve branch offices, which greatly facilitate the receiving and the TO SAN FRANCISCO. 83 delivery cf the mail. Stamps and money-orders can bt obtained at any of the several branches, as well as the registration of letters and packa.ii^es. Deliveries and col- lections are made at frequent intervals during the day while in the business section deliveries are made five times during the day. There is no delivery on Sunday*^, and but one on holidays. At Station D, at the foot o( Market street, overland letters can be dropped until ten minutes before the boat leaves. Business Hours (Main Post Office): — General Delivery 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Carriers' Department 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Box Window 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Money-Order Department 9:00 am to 5 p.m. Registry Department 9:00 AM to 6 p.m. Stamp Department 8:00 a.m. to 5 p.m. Immediate Delivery 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Dead Letter Department 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. The Post Office is open on Sundays from 2 to 3 p.m. Stations: — A . . Southeast comer Polk and Sacramento streets. B .1610 Market street. C . Corner Mission and Twentieth streets. D . Ferries, foot of Market street. E .. Corner Third and Townsend streets. F Southwest corner Sacramento and Fillmore streets. G . ..Corner Seventeenth and Market streets. H . . .Hayes street, near Ivy avenue. J . . 420 Montgomery avenue. K . .Comer New Montgomery and Jessie streets (under Palace Hotel). L . . .Ocean View. M .. .Northwest corner Clement and Sixth avenues (Richmond District). Sub-Stations (for sale of stamps and money-order> and registry of letters, etc.): — No. I Comer Kentucky and Napa streets. No. 2 ...Northwest corner Railroad and Eleventh avenues. No. 3 .1702 Devisadero street. No. 4 . 1900 Union street. No. 5 . 1338 Castro street. No. 6 . 3297 Mission street. No. 7. . . .359 Devisadero street. There has recently been established a street railway mail service, which carries the mails to and from Station 84 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE D to the various sub-stations along the lines. These cars are painted white, and do not carry passengers. Previous to the erection of the present Post Office, the pioneers obtained their mail from the Post Office on Clay street and Waverly place, and on Clay street, near Kearny, opposite the Plaza, and afterward on Clay and Kearny streets. The great fire of 1852 destroyed these and many other places of interest. To avoid confusion and facilitate the delivery of the mail on the day the steamer arrived, long lines were formed of people who expected letters from home. It was a frequent occur- rence to see the same people standing in place all day, waiting their turn, the windows being arranged alpha- betically. Oft-times persons would sell their places for as much as ten and even twenty dollars. Our new Post Office, when completed, will be by far the most imposing public edifice in the city. . ^ . ^ is situated on the northwest portion of the PR ES I D i ^j peninsula, with Lyon street on the east and Pacific avenue on the south, extending to the bay on the north and the Golden Gate on the west. It is about four miles from the Palace Hotel, and is well worth visiting. It contains about 1500 acres, and can be reached by the Union street cable system, which takes you into the grounds at the Parade; or by the Jack- son street cable system to the gate on Central avenue. It is the headquarters of the Department of California, and contains at present four batteries of the Third Artil- lery, four troops of the Fourth Cavalry, and four com- panies of the First Infantry. There are some beautiful driveways through the reser- vation. On every morning, except Saturday, the soldiers are put through the various drills, commencing at 9 and lasting until 11:30. The walks are conspicuously clean, while the paths, with long rows of shells and cannon balls on either side, present a rather unique appearance. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 85 On the bluffs above the Fort, facing the west and overlooking the Golden Gate Strait, are being con- structed large earth-works for the reception of huge mortars, etc. Already there have been mounted sixteen twelve-inch breech-loading mortars, capable of throwing an 800-pound shell five miles out to sea. There are also several large twelve-inch breech-loading rifles mounted on the bluffs in solid and massive concrete. Directly opposite Fort Winfield Scott is Lime Point (a fog station), above which are to be constructed large fortifications to command the entrance of the harbor. There have recently been constructed in the Presidio five large brick buildings, or barracks, for the various companies. Just beyond, and on the slope of the hill, is the National Cemetery. A driveway passes on around the foot of the hill to the Fort beyond. The Presidio is the most desirable military post in the United States. (National Cemetery, q. v.) (Fort Winfield Scott, q. v,) The Presidio was founded September 17, 1776, by Friars Parlou and Cambon, and was the first settlement on the peninsula. The population in 1S30 consisted of about fifty Spanish soldiers and officers. At this spot was the governor's abode, the jail, artificers shops, and a number of old-style houses, built of unburned bricks (adobe) with tiled roofs. It was taken possession of by the United States, in 1846, by troops from an American man-of-war. New Army Hospital.— Upon the former site of the parade and drill grounds at the terminus of the Union Street cable line, has been constructed at a cost exceeding $120,- 000, the most elaborate and extensive military hospital in the United States. Here are cared for the hundreds of wounded and diseased soldiers who have come home from the battle-fields in the Philippines and other foreign service. PUBLIC SCHOOLS V"^ .P"''''"= ,'"''.°°'^, "[. S"" Francisco rank with the highest in the country, and while the buildings are not as grand 86 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE and imposing as can be seen in other cities, tiie systems adopted are as nearly perfect as will be found anywhere. They are divided into primary, grammar, high, polytech- nic, normal, and evening schools. The daily session begins at 9 A.M. and closes at 3 p.m., with an hour for lunch, except in the primary and evening classes. By taking a map of the city and marking the location of each school- house you will see that the city is well supplied with institutions of learning. The quarantine grounds are at Quar- QUARANTINE ,■ n .u ,u a f antine Cove, on the north side of Angel Island, on Raccoon Strait. Shipmasters bringing vessels, or consignees having vessels in the harbor, which have on board any cases of Asiatic cholera, smallpox, yellow, typhus, or ship fever, must report the same in writing to the quarantine office, before landing any passengers, casting anchor, or coming to any wharf. It is the duly of the quarantine officer to board any vessel subject to quarantine or visitation by him, immediately on her arrival, and make an examination and inspection, as he may judge expedient, and determine the length of detention in quarantine. Steamers " Geo. M, Sternberg" and "Gov. Perkins" are used by the quarantine officer, and are docked at Powell-street wharf, sea wall. is located in the City Hall, RECEIVING HOSPITAL r , , ^ Larkin-street wmg, cor- ner Park avenue. between Angel Island and the RACCOON STRAIT 11, /- 7 v, .u Mann County shore, is three miles long and one mile wide, with an average of sixty feet in depth. A very strong current rushes through its channels. On the Angel Island side is located the quar- antine station. _ . The restaurants of San Francisco RESTAURANTS , r ,. , are numerous and of various kinds, from the coflfee-and-bun type to the elegant apartment TO SAN FRANCISCO. 87 of the Palace, known as the grill-room. One can satisfy a craving appetite to its fullest desire for the remarkably small sum of fifteen cents. There are also French, Mexican, Spanish, Italian, and Chinese restaurants, where one can get a typical national meal served at a reasonable price. The better class are to be found on Kearny, Montgomery, Sutter, Post, and Geary streets, or within a radius of six blocks of the retail center of town. One can also procure a very nice meal or oyster dinner at the various markets. A large portion of the population lives in hotels or hired rooms, and eats at the restaurants. This fact is very noticeable, and can best be seen in the evening, between five and seven, when the day's work is done. .. is an arm of the bay ex RICHARDSON'S BAY . ,. , ,. ^.^ , tendmg to the north and east of Sausalito. At various seasons of the year large fleets of sailing-vessels lay at anchor in its secluded and quiet waters, waiting a cargo. It was named after Wm. A. Richardson, an Englishman, who settled at Sausalito in 1822. He afterwards moved to Verba Buena, where he engaged in the hide and tallow business, at a spot now known as 8ii Dupont street. _._ . lies just south of the Pre- RICHMOND DISTRICT ... , ,u f *u sidio and north of the Park, extending from First avenue on the east to the ocean on the west. It is a thriving settlement, and is fast coming to the front in way of street improvements, etc. It was formerly a vast area of sand dunes, with a few dwellings and cow ranches scattered along Point Lobos road, which extends through its entire length. between First and Second, Folsom RINCON HILL ^^^^ Bryant streets, was once what the Pacific Heights now are — the fashionable residence district of the city Some of the finest residences can 88 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Still be seen on Harrison street, between First and Second. Manufacturing industries have taken posses- sion of nearly the entire district. Rincon, in Spanish, means comer. on west side of Montgomery street, RUSS HOUSE "" occupies the entire block between Bush and Pine streets. It was erected in 1862 by the late Christian Russ, who purchased the site in 1847. The building is three stories high, and contains 300 rooms, of which thirty are suites, with bath and toilet attach- ments. It is a favorite hotel for merchants and farmers from the interior. to the southwest of Telegraph Hill, RUSSIAN HILL j^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ y^^ reached to best advantage by Hyde-street cable cars, getting off at Vallejo street and walking two blocks to the east; or by Union-street cars, getting off at Leaven- worth street and walking about three blocks. A grand view can be had of the bay-line, as well as a great por- tion of the city, as described in article on Telegraph Hill {q. v,\ , , on Hayes street, between ST. IGNATIUS CHURCH ^^^ ^ess avenue and Franklin street, is the largest and handsomest church building in the city. The main hall is some 200 feet long. A large oil painting by Tojetti, representing the recep- tion in Heaven of St. Ignatius Loyola, hangs over the altar. The spires, which are the tallest in California, are 275 feet high. There has recently been constructed in this church the second largest church-organ in Amer- ica. It contains 5350 pipes, which vary in size from the smallest known to a huge pipe thirty-two feet high by nearly two feet in thickness. It has also four manuals, of sixty-one keys each, and a pedal-board of thirty keys, besides eighty-five speaking stops, seventeen couplers, fourteen adjustable combination pistons, and three swell TO SAN FRANCISCO. 89 pedals. It is the only organ on the coast in which elec- tricity is used. This immense organ weighs 100,000 pounds. The central columns are surmounted by life- sized angels with trumpets, while the outer ones have urns containing blazing torches. This handsome piece of work was presented to the church by Mrs. Welch. ST. LUKE'S HOSPITAL °" "f '^'de of Valencia street, between Twenty- seventh and Twenty-eighth, was established in 1871. It was organized and is controlled by the Episcopal Church. Its doors are open to the sick of all nationalities and creeds. There are no free beds. ST. MARY'S is on the northwest corner of Van Ness CATHEDRAL avenue and O'Farrell street. It is of Romanesque style, with some of the finest stained-glass windows on the Coast. In it is a magnificent altar of marble and onyx, imported from Munich at great cost. OLD ST. MARY'S on Dupont and California streets, CATHEDRAL jg a large brick building, after the Gothic style of architecture, with clock tower 200 feet high. Cost of church, 1175,000. It was dedicated December 25, 1854, having been commenced July 17, 1853. The ceiling is forty-five feet high. ST. MARY-S HOSPITAL '^, °" ^^f" ''"'I ^'J^, Streets. It is conducted by the Sisters of Mercy, but patients are not questioned as to their religion. It is a large and commodious hos- pital, with all the modern improvements and accommo- dations. It has a complete and very able medical and surgical staff, also a corps of experienced trained nurses. ST. PATRICK'S CHURCH °." "°f side of Mis- sion street, between Third and Fourth, is the proud possessor of the only set of chimes in the city. They were presented by the late 90 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Peter Donahue. This church was erected in 1870, and cost $100,000 with furnishings. SAN FRANCISCO on the northeast SAVINGS UNION BUILDING corner of Cahfornia and Webb streets, is a substantial structure of symmetrical architecture. The lower story is of marble, surmounted by four stories of light, pressed brick and terra-cotta. The building has a frontage of 63 >^ feet on California, and 120 feet on Webb street. It was constructed in 1894. The bank was incorporated June, 1862. SAN FRANCISCO STOCK on south side of AND EXCHANGE BUILDING pj^e street, be- tween Montgomery and Sansome, is a handsome struc- ture with a granite front, six stories high, and surmounted by a handsome tower, 165 feet above sidewalk. The corner-stone was laid April 27, 1876. The walnut doors leading from the vestibule are elab- orately carved, and cost $1000. The main room, 70 feet square, is paneled with Tennessee marble, above a wainscoting of black Belgium marble. Messengers can be seen hurrying in and out of the board at nearly all hours of the day, carrying quotations to the various offices in the neighborhood. When there is a boom in stocks, one can see small groups of men, in great excite- ment, all along the block, shouting at the height of their voices, buying and selling shares. _ . These famous rocks are situated in SEAL ROCKS ,x t, a r^ 1 r * r the Pacific Ocean, only 300 feet from ihe Cliff House. They are four in number. One can pass hours at a time watching, from the verandas of the Cliff House, the sea-lions as they wriggle over the rocks, barking, and apparently never still. They live on fish and the refuse from the hotel, and as their lives are protected by the law, they do not seem to diminish in number. (See the large stuffed sea-lion, ** Ben Butler," TO SAN FRANCISCO. 9I in the museum in the Sutro Baths, and you can form some idea of their size.) From the ocean side can be seen an arch through the largest of the rocks. extends from foot of Taylor street, around the City Front, to the foot of Market street. It is the purpose of the State Commis- sioners to continue it on to the foot of Fourth street. A shed has been erected on the northern and western Sec- tions (Nos. 2, 3. and 4), 100 feet wide, for the reception of cereals from the interior. Grain is allowed to remain fifteen days under shed, without further charge, for re- moval or shipment. A toll of fifty cents per ton is charged for the landin": of wheat. The average cost of each Section (5000 feet) has been about 1894,671. On Section i there was used 675,430 cubic yards of stone, 1,409,085 cubic yards of earth, 3401 piles, and 2,242,538 feet of lumber. A wharf has been built out into the bay at foot of Powell street, to break the force of the current which was wont to sweep around the City Front. The Quarantine Officer has his office at the extreme western end of the sea-wall. (See article on '• City Front.") The U. S. revenue steamer "Hartley" docks here; also quarantine steamer "Geo. M Sternberg." The following wharves project into the bay from the seawall : — Lombard-street, Pier 27. Ferry Slips. Ferry Slips— Freight-boats. Mission-street No. i, Pier 2. Vallejo-street, Pier 13. Mission-street No. 2, Pier 4. Broaciway No. 2, Pier n. Howard-street No. i, Pier 6. Broadway No. i, Pier 9. Howard-street No. 2, Pier 8. Pacific street, Pier 7. Steuart -street, Pier 20. Jackson street, Pier 5. Spear street, Dry-docks. Washington street. Pier 3. First street, Pacific Mail Steam- Clay-street, Pier i. ship Co. SIGNAL SERVICE '^^'^ ""'";'' |'^'",! ^'^""^ ^f' Vice has its San Francisco sta- tion on top of the Mills Building (Bush and Montgomery streets). Reports are received from points along the entire Pacific Coast of the United States, and distributed 92 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE over the country. Signal flags are displayed, showing condition of weather to be expected. ^^..... ...^..r lies between Second and Third, SOUTH PARK o ,„ * ^ ^ J- • Brannan and Bryant streets, and is in the shape of an elongated oval. It is a park, encircled by rows of brick and stone dwellings. The roadway is of bitumen, and makes a very pleasant driveway. This was formerly the fashionable residence district of the city, but it has been deserted by its former occupants, and is now in the heart of the "Tar Flat" region. It was planned and laid out by Chas. Gordon. ..... In addition to the Lick Statuary in front Si A I UAR 1 of the City Hall, and the various statutes at the Golden Gate Park, there are a few others in the city; viz. one of Benjamin Franklin, a drinking fountain at intersection of Kearny street and Montgomery avenue (erected and presented to the city by Dr. Cogswell in 1879), ^"<^ one on Mt. Olympus, between Ashbury Mights and Twin Peaks, — a statute of Liberty, with a lighted torch waving over her head, — erected in 1887 by Hon. Adolph Sutro. ..„« ..-., "Collection Day," as it is now STEAMER DAY . ■, • r * termed, was an occasion of great excitement among the commercial classes of the city during the early days, as on this day the mail and pas- senger vessels departed for the East, and it became necessary for the merchants to make their collections and prepare their remittances and mail before the hour of departure. The whole population generally turned out to bid their departing friends adieu, and business was partially suspended. It has thus established a pre- cedent, and to this day collections are made on steamer days (13th and 28th of each month), instead of on the ist, as is the custom in the East. The mail steamer " Califor- nia " was the first of the line to arrive, — February 28, 1849, TO SAN FRANCISCO. STEVENSON MONUMENT erected in Portsmouth Square, unveiled Oc- tober 17, 1897, was the first monument ever erected to the memory of Robert Louis Stevenson. It is a rectan- gular granite block ten fett high, with a coping, upon which rests a bronze casting of a Spanish galleon under full sail, ploughing through the seas. It was the conception of Robert Louis Stevenson Drinking Fountain Mr. Bruce Porter, a local artist of well-won repute. It was in this square that Stevenson often sat upon a sunny day and received many inspirations which have found their way into print. Upon the face of the monument is a selection from his "Wrecker. " Califorr)i2v Souvenir^ Photographs, View Books, Guides, and Maps of San Francisco and California Professional ^n^ ^rn^teur Pbotograpb^rs^ 5upplics Developing done at reasonable rates Leevtb^r Goods Departroeot Carries a full line of Trunks, Valises, Hand Bags, and Telescope Baskets Tr2vvelers* Supplies Soaps, Combs, Brushes, Perfumes, Ra- zors, Cutlery, etc., etc. SANBORN, VAIL & CO. 741-743-745 Market St. Retafl*^ Business District Sail FrailCiSCO, Cal. TO SAN FRANCISCO. 93 —being followed shortly afterwards by the "Oregon," March 31, 1849. is a large brick structure, four SUB-TREASURY ^^^^^^ hjgh, situated on north side of Commercial street, between Kearny and Mont- gomery (former site of the United States Mint), erected 1877. Lower floor only is occupied by the Sub-Treasury offices and vaults. Upper floors are occupied by the offices of the United States Surv eyor-General of Cali- fornia and United States Land Office. On the bluffs above the Cliff SUTRO HEIGHTS ^q^^^ is a place which one should not fail to visit. Through the hospitality of the Hon. Adolph Sutro, of Sutro Tunnel fame, whose pri- vate grounds these are, the Heights are thrown open to the public and to all tourists. The entrance is directly opposite the end of the steam-car extension of the Sacra- mento, Jackson, and California-street cable systems. Upon passing through the gate, which is guarded on either side by a huge lion, you see immediately before you a grand driveway, called Palm avenue, bordered by palms for its entire length, and with well-kept grass- and flower-beds. Numerous pathways lead off either to right or left, taking one to some secluded spot or bed of choice flowers. Statues representing the various allegorical and mythological gods and goddesses are to be seen in every direction. Upon taking any of the roads leading to the right, you pass through a beautiful grove of trees, over a fine grass lawn, with Mr. Sutro's residence on the left, to the Heights, overlooking the Cliff House, also the property of Mr. Sutro. The walls are finished with parapets, surmounted by statues and huge pots of flow- ers. Two large cannons project from the apertures, and add to the battlemented appearance of the Heights. To the north can be seen, in the immediate foreground, the 5a 94 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Merchants' Exchange Signal Station at Point Lobes, while beyond is Point Bonita, and farther up the coast, Point Reyes. To the south can be seen the surging surf, rolling upon the beach as far as the eye can see (Point San Pedro), and at almost any time the Farallones can be discerned. Upon leaving the Heights, take the road to the left, turning and going toward the ocean. This road takes you around the base of the parapet, upon the ledge of which can be seen numerous statues of dogs, children, sailor-boys, animals, and deer, picturesquely placed. A flight of steps, carved out of natural rock, leads to the Heights above. Toad-stool seats are placed along the roadside. Take steps leading to the balcony below {''^ Dolce far Nunte^^), overlooking the beach and approach to the Cliff House. Returning to road above and continu ng on, you come to the hot-house, where a choice collection of tropical plants and ferns is to be seen. Pass- ing on and arriving at end of the grounds, you take road to left leading to the Rotunda, reached through a long, nar- row passageway between two rows of trees, and from which a fine view of the grounds can be had. Continuing on, passing numerous nooks, choice flowers, and more statues, you come to the Maze, a labyrinth of paths lead- ing, apparently, to the far-away center. After passing more time here than was intended, you resume the road, fol- lowing which you strike Palm avenue again, near the entrance. After leaving the Heights, you take the road (Point Lobos) leading down to the CliflT House and Baths, passing on the right the Sutro pleasure-grounds, consist- ing of the Firth Wheel, Mystic Maze, Haunted Swing, and Scenic Railway, all relics of the Midwinter Fair. These are by far the grandest and SUTRO BATHS ^^^ ^^^^ superb of all the bath- houses in the world. Upon entering, you pass down a flight of steps to the first (or upper) floor, upon which is a good collection of curiosities. Directly in front is TO SAN FRANCISCO. 95 " Ben Butler," the larg^est sea-lion known. He was tlie monarch of the rocks, until one morning he was found dead on the beach, having been washed ashore. His weight was 2000 pounds. Next is a large walrus, then a huge polar bear, next a glass case of shells, etc., then some Egj'ptian mummies, and finally, a large case of stuffed birds of beautiful plumaj^e, and a fine collection of bottled fishes and reptiles. On either side can be seen a collection of interesting articles, gathered from every clime, from Alaska to Egypt A rare and costly collection of 2500 medallions is to be seen just back of the elevator shaft. Potted flowers and trees are in great profusion all about the building. Upon passing down- stairs, you come onto the main floor, or upper balcony, which is a great surprise to the unsuspecting visitor. In the corner to the left is the restaurant, where a light lunch can be had at a reasonable price. At the south end of this floor are some very fine specimens of stuffed birds and animals. Potted palms and tropical plants are placed in every conceivable nook and corner. To the right, at foot of stairway, the bathing-suits are issued. Passing around to the left, you can either go down to the floor below, or over to the east side of the balcony, on which are numerous side-shows of different kinds. A collection of ancient proclamations and photographs is to be seen in the revolving racks, just before passing to the main section. The main tank is on the western side of the building, and contains the sea-water in its natural state, direct from a basin dug out of the natural rock on the rocky point out- side, where it is deposited by the action of the waves. The water in this tank is from four to ten feet in depth. The other tanks, five in number, also contain the natural sea- water, but heated to varying degrees of temperature. The water in these tanks does not exceed six feet in de. th. One is reserved for ladies and children ex- clusively. There is also one fresh-water plunge-tank. 96 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE The water in all the tanks is crystal-clear. Numerous trapezes, spring-boards, swinging rings, and toboggan slides add to the attractions. Only one hour is occupied in filling the entire system of tanks. The baths are 499/^ feet long and 254 feet wide, and hold 1,804,962 gallons of water. The main tank is L-shaped, being 300 feet long and 175 feet wide at the widest point. The seats are arranged like those of an amphitheater, in tiers, one above the other, on an inclined plane, and will hold 3700 people, which, with the promenade holding 3700, makes a seating capacity of 7400. It required 100,000 superficial feet of glass to cover the roof and sides, and the tanks and round about the build- ing took 270,000 cubic feet of concrete. There are 517 private dressing-rooms, besides numerous club-rooms, each of which is supplied with a shower-bath. An enor- mous breakwater, 400 feet long, twenty-five feet wide at top, and twenty feet high, protects the baths on the west from the encroachment of the sea. Another similar break-water affords protection on the end. north side of Sutter SYNAGOGUE EMANU-EL ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^ p^„^„ and Stockton streets, is a large structure of Byzantine style, surmounted by two large, lofty towers, which, in turn, have large, gilded balls at the extreme top. The in- terior of the building is richly decorated. The building was erected in 1866, at a cost of |20o,ooo. A grand view is to be seen TELEGRAPH HILL ^^^^ ^^.^^ natural landmark, which lies in the northeast portion of the city. The bay, with its shipping and the movements of boats of all kinds, presents an ever-changing sight. To the east (about two miles) can be seen Goat Island, while be- yond lies the Oakland and Berkeley shore, with Mt. Diablo looming up beyond the range in rear of Oakland. To the south can be seen the various wharves, with their TO SAN FRANCISCO. 97 vessels discharging and loading, while further down can be seen the Union Iron Works, Pacific Rolling: Mills, Sugar Refinery, and Hunter's Point. Upon lowering the eyes, you behold the large manufacturing and whole- sale districts, which reach from Montgomery street to the bay. You can also see Rincon Hill, the Shot Tower, Palace, Occidental, Lick, Russ, and California hotels, besides the " Chronicle," " Call," Crocker, Mills, Union Trust, Mutual, and Pacific Mutual Life buildings, besides many other large office buildings; while off to trie south- west can be seen the city, with all its high buildings, towering domes, and smoking chimneys. The dome of the City Hall can be seen to good advantage, with the Twin Peaks and Mission hills looming up in the back- ground; still nearer can be seen Nob Hill and its grand mansions. To the north can be seen the upper arm of the bay, and beyond, past Red Rock, the Bay of San Pablo, through which the early seekers of gold rowed and tugged away at their boats, ever desirous of being first at the gold-fields. In the immediate foreground, a trifle to the west, can be seen Alcatraz Island, a fortified military post, commanding the entrance to the bay, while just beyond, appearing as part of the mainland, is Angel Island; farlheraway can be seen Mt. Tamalpais, looming up in all its majesty. To the west, one looks over several hill-tops and their intervening valleys, literally dotted with dwellings. The sea-wall can be followed round the base of Telegraph Hill; beyond the end of it is seen Fort Mason, then the Golden Gate and the Marin shore opposite. Point Bonita lighthouse stands out in bold relief above and beyond Fort Point. Telegraph Hill is 294 feet above the level of the bay, and is now quite easy to ascend. Take either Kearny-street electric cars or Powell-street cable line, getting off at Greenwich street, and walk about four blocks up to summit. The wind blows quite strong during the afternoon, so it is advisable to make the ascent during the forenoon. There 98 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE is at present a huge castellated frame building on the top, which was formerly used as a Sunday report. A time- ball, operated from the Merchants' Exchange, drops at noon on the pole on top of the tower. In September, 1849, ^ station was established on top of Telegraph Hill for the purpose of informing the resi- dents of the arrival of vessels. Signals were of various kinds, designating the kind of vessel, whether steam or sailing Great excitement prevailed on the announce- ment of the arrival of a Panama steamer. Thousands of people rushed to the wharves, in the hope of seeing some friend, or to get the news. The station was abandoned September 22, 1853, when Point Lobos was connected by wire with the Merchants' Exchange. It was proposed, in 1852, that Telegraph Hill be graded down, and that the earth be used for the ballast of out- going vessels, but the products of California's fields com- pletely changed the tables; and while considerable earth has been removed for ballast and for filling in the back of the sea-wall, the hill stands majestically overlooking the bay and city. The Western Union, with TELEGRAPH OFFICES headquarters on northeast corner of Pine and Montgomery streets, has branches scattered all over the city, as has also the Postal Tele- graph Co., with headquarters on Market street, below Montgomery, opposite Second. Branches can be found in the principal hotel offices as well. Messenger calls can also be found there. north side (No. 28) Eddy, TIVOLI OPERA HOUSE , ^ ' ,, '. between Powell and Mason streets. This house is celebrated for its light operas. It has a seating capacity of 1800. 427 Kearny 5t., bet. Pine and California Sts. Headquarters for California Wood Novelties, Shells, Coral, and Curios California and Pacific Wood Novelties raa'^e from a variety of beautiful, durable, and curious woods, beautifulh- polished showing the natural colors and grains. Indian Baskets Samoan Fans and Baskets Finest assortment on the Pacific Coast to select from GELORGE. F. ATKINSON Manufacturer and Dealer Big Tree Store 427 Kearny Street San Francisco, Cal, Elder and Shepar({ 238 POST ST., SAI\ FRANCISCO, CAL. TTieChildrcnTRoom' 1 VISITORS ill Al\ INTERESTING BOOK snrf ART STORE / C^ I iiiiif:!'!!' The Old BooK Room. V ^^.^^TMAMiBvOOJlL ARE, WILLCOME TO SAN FRANCISCO 99 TO LAND was first opened in 1864. It MEDICAL COLLEGE jg on Stockton street, near Chestnut. It is an affiliated college of the University of California. TRINITY CHURCH '^ stated on the northeast cor ner of Bush and Gough streets. It is a ma.ssive and imposing edifice of stone, erected, in 1893, from plans by the late Page Brown, an architect who contributed much to the beauty of our city _...... ,,^ which are to be seen upon looking out TWIN PEAKS ^,r 1 .. * * • Of* ^ Market street, rise 938 feet and are about 175 yards apart. They are now quite easy of access. Take Eighteenth-street branch of San Mateo electric line, getting oflT on brow of hills, and thence by succession of roads the summit is reached. An unsur- passed view can be had from this point. To the west, and at the base of the mountains, you can see the Alms House and Laguna Honda, a reservoir of the Spring Valley Water Company. To the north can be seen the Statue of Liberty, the Panhandle of the Park, and on over a stretch of the northwest section of the city, and across the bay, Mt. Tamalpias, always majestic and beau- tiful. To the east one gains a fine view of the city, and on a clear day the towns of Oakland, Alameda, and Berkeley, with Mt. Diablo looming up in the distance. ..1^. .^iv. .n^n.! t.f^nu'.r^ located in the Potrero, are UNION IRON WORKS , , . , as complete as any m the world. They have recently built the U. S. Cruisers "Charleston," "San Francisco," "Olympia," the moni- tor " Monterey," and the battleship "Oregon," which has shown the world what can be done in the way of making war vessels on the Pacific Coast. A hydraulic- lift dock, 600 feet long, and capable of handling the largest vessels afloat, is a part of the plant. The Union Iron Works were founded in 1849 by LofC. lOO SOUVENIR AND GUIDE James and Peter Donahue. The plant soon grew, and business increased rapidly to great magnitude. The firm changed several times. Mr. Donahue, who had suc- ceeded to his brother's interest, being interested in other pursuits, sold out. They built the first locomotive ever constructed on this coast — "The California." The managers and principal owners are the brothers Irving M. and Henry T. Scott. UNITED STAT E S is situated on the floors above the CUSTOMHOUSE Post Office. UNITED STATES is a massive and impos- APPRAISER'S BUILDING jng brick building, four stories high, facing Sansome street, between Washington and Jackson, and abuttinu the Post Office and Custom House. The necessity of having some building for stor. age purposes connected with the customs department, to be used as a warehouse in which imported goods would be received and appraised, and duties adjusted, led to the construction of this building. The United States Courts are located here. The foundation is of solid con- crete, many feet in thickness. It is to be remembered that the ground on which it is built is all " made ground," having been filled in years ago. VAN NESS AVENUE js the widest street in the dty (125 feet). It extends north- erly in a direct line, from Market street to the bay at North Beach. By a recent order passed by the Board of Supervisors, it has been declared a boulevard, and is therefore clear of all heavy teaming. The roadbed, which was formerly macadam, is quickly being converted into bitumen, which gives a more uniform and cleaner street. The first building of any note on this avenue is the St. Ignatius Church and College, on left side, corner of Hayes street {g. v.). A few blocks beyond, on north- TO SAN FRANCISCO. lOl east corner of Golden Gate avenue, is the Mercantile Library Building (r. ?.). Next we come to the new St. Mary's Cathedral, on northwest corner of O'Farrell street (^. v.). Passing on, we come to the Concordia Club, on southeast corner of Post. We now reach the fashionable residence portion, extending on to Pacific avenue. First Presbyterian Church, southeast corner of Sacramento street, and St, Luke's Episcopal Church, southeast corner of Clay, are also passed. WELLS, FARGO 4. GO'S occupies the six-story EXPRESS granite and pressed-brick building on the north-east corner of Mission and Second streets, just below Market street. It conducts a gen- eral express and forwarding (merchandise, money and letters) business, having offices in all the principal cities in the United States and Europe. It was established in 1852 for the purpose of doing an express, exchange, and banking business, with a capital of $300,000, which was shortly afterwards increased to $600,000. A system was established shortly afterwards for carrying and de- livering letters across the continent, which, in i860, developed into the famous Pony Express between St Joseph, Mo., and Sacramento, a distance of 1900 miles. The mail left each city twice a week, ten days being the time across. The rates were five dollars for each half ounce. The company also conducts a general banking business, the bank being located at the junction of Mar- ket, Sansome, and Sutter streets. YOUNG MEN'S CHRIS- is located on the northeast TIAN ASSOCIATION corner of Mason and Ellis streets, in a large, handsome, and imposing struc- ture, five stories high, built of Caduc Roman pressed brick, granite, and terra-cotta. It is modeled after the Italian Renaissance style of architecture. It has a facing of iS7}4 feet on Mason, by 87)^ feet on Ellis street, and cost, complete, I350.000. The finishings are of marble I02 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE and quartered oak. The gymnasium is in the annex, and is 105 feet long by 47^^ feet wide. It contains the latest and best apparatus, as well as a felt running track. There is, in addition to the tub baths, a swimming tank twenty by forty feet, supplied with salt water direct from the ocean, a bowling alley, shooting gallery, hand-ball court, cycling club, library (5000 volumes), and reading rooms. There is also an educational department, free to all members, where stenography, bookkeeping, mathe- matics, mechanical and free-hand drawing, elocution, vocal culture, rhetoric, German and Spanish are taught. There is, in connection with the institution, an employ- ment bureau for the benefit of members seeking em- ployment. There is also an auditorium, where lectures and entertainments are held. It will seat looa TO SAW FRANCISCO. loi A BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH OF SAN FRANQSCO. It may be well to give, in connection with this brief sketch of the city, a few of the principal historical facts which have occurred during the past fifty years, and have led up to the San Francisco of to-day. The present City of San Francisco was made by the merging together of the first two settlements on the peninsula — the religious settlement in the Mission and the commercial settlement on the Cove called Verba Buena. The first settlement was made at the Presidio by Friars Francisco Palou and Benito Cambon, September, 1776, but was afterwards transferred to the Mission, where it was not so exposed to the winds. Mission Dolores was dedicated by Don Josd Moraga, October 8, 1776. The first frame building was erected by Jacob P. Leese in 1836, and was completed on July 4th of the same year, amid great celebrations. It stood on the south side of Clay street, above Dupont. The land on which it was erected was granted to him by Governor-General Mariano Chico, it being loo-varas square, and anywhere outside of 200-varas of the beach. A vara is equal to 33 >^ inches, and is a Spanish term, meaning a yard in measure. The majority of the people lived in huts or shanties, a brick building being a thing unknown until 1848. Most of the large frame buildings were brought from the East around the Horn, in sections, all ready to put together. Many of such can be seen, even to this day. The first brick building was erected on the corner of Mont- Io4 SOUVENIR AND GUIDS gomery and Clay streets, by Melius and Howard, in Sep- tember, 1848. A large trade in hides and tallow was conducted in Yerba Buena until the influx of emigrants and miners began, and the breaking out of the Mexican War. The Hudson Bay Company had an agency in Yerba Buena from 1841 to 1846. The " San Luis," a sloop-of-war, was the first American war vessel to enter the harbor, 1841. The first white child born in Yerba Buena (April 15, 1838), was a daughter to the wife of Mr. Jacob P. Leese, who was, before her marriage to Mr. Leese, a Vallejo, being sister to General Vallejo. They were married, April 7, 1837. The ship "Thos. H. Per- kins " arrived, March 6, 1847, with a regiment of 250 men, under command of Col. J. D. Stevenson. They were principally practical workmen and mechanics, unmar- ried, and enlisted agreeing to remain in the country after peace with Mexico had been declared. The ships *' Loo Choo," "Susan Drew," and "Brutus," arrived shortly after. On January 19, 1848, James W. Marshall, an Ameri- can, discovered gold while digging a ditch for a saw- mill at Coloma, about forty-five miles northeast of Sacra- mento. About two-thirds of the population of San Francisco left shortly afterwards for the gold fields, people selling their lots for one-half what they were worth one month before; but some of the miners, know- ing that the necessities of life were getting scarce, imme- diately came back to San Francisco, and prepared to profit through the rapidly increasing business. The population increased very rapidly. In 1846 there were but 200 inhabitants. Owing to the large finds of gold in the interior in 1848, it soon reached 1000, and early in 1849 it was estimated at 2000, while in July of the same year it had grown to 5000, and in 1850 it was estimated at 10,000 souls. Between April and December, 1849, 549 vessels arrived, bringing about 35,000 passengers, while 42,000 TO SAN FRANCISCO. I05 arrived overland; but all of lliese did not remain in the city the greater number finding their way to the mines. Population in January, 1852, was 36,151. and in Decem- ber of the same year it had increased to 42,000. With this influx of miners came a motley crowd from all points on the Pacific Coast, Australia, and the East. Men of all trades came, expecting to get gold by merely picking it up. With this vast array ot population was a class who were engaged in gambling and all sorts of dishonest practices. Gambling seems to have grown into popular favor. Stringent measures for its abatement were taken in 1848, but to no avail. Fortunes were made and lost in a single day, and many a miner who had come to the city to embark for his home in the East lost all he had in trying to increase his fortunes at the gaming table, and had to put back to the mines and begin all over. The "El Dorado," a gambling saloon on Kearny street, opposite Portsmouth Square, paid an annual rental of |4o,ooo, while the Parker House, adjoining, gave the owner the handsome sum of |i2o,ooo per year. The second floor was used as a gambling saloon, and alone paid |6o,ooo. There was a great scarcity of gold and silver coin, gold-dust being the principal medium of exchange, at a valuation of sixteen dollars an ounce. The winter season of 1849 and 1850 was very severe, there being fifty-three days during which the rainfall was 33.10 inches, in consequence of which, the streets which had not as yet been graded or paved, were simply impassable. In many places teams would sink up to the body of the wagon, and the animals which could not be extricated were left to die where they were. Trees and shrubbery of all kinds, provisions by the barrel, and boxes were thrown into the streets to afford a passage-way. The monthly yield of gold in California during 1848 averaged about $300,000; in 1849, $1,500,000; in 1850, $3,000,000. There was, in 1852, according to the Custom 5b Io6 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE House report, 146,599,044 worth of gold-dust shipped from San Francisco, and in 1853, $54,906,659 worth. The name of the city was changed, January 30, 1846, from Yerba Buena to San Francisco, after St. Francis of Assisi, the founder of the Franciscans, an order to which Father Junipero Serra belonged. It was incorporated into a city in January, 1850, the first charter being granted. May I, 1850. The first survey of the Cove was made in 1839, by Juan Vioget, who caused all of the old grants, located at random, to conform with the new survey. On the loth of March, 1847, General Kearny (then Military Governor) issued a decree, granting to the town all the beach and water lots between Rincon and Clark's points, except such as the senior naval officer situated in San Francisco should reserve for Govern- ment use, under condition that these lots should be sold at auction for the benefit of the town. Within a week after, Edwin Bryant, Alcalde of San Francisco, gave no- tice that the lots would be surveyed and sold. The sale took place July 20, 1847, when 200 of the 450 lots, 45 5/6 X 137 1/2, were sold, at prices ranging from $50 to |6oo each. The remaining lots (250) were sold eight years later, and brought from $8eoo to |i6,ooo each. The prices obtained showed what confidence the business men had in the place. Another survey was ordered in October, 1849, taking in the property between Larkin, Leaven- worth, Post, and Eighth streets, being sold in fifty-vara lots, at $200 each. Another survey was made later by Jasper O'Farrell, a civil engineer, taking in the property between Post and Francisco, and extending west to Leavenworth. He also laid out Market street. There was a cloud over the title of property south of Pine street, consequently most of the fashionable residences, churches, and leading hotels were north of that street; but in i860, as soon as the southern portion (south of Market street, east of TO SAN FRANCISCO. I07 Tenth) was released from the Mexican and other claims (squatters who refused to be ejected, and who were de- feated by the action of the Federal Supreme Court), the majority of the wealthy families immediately moved to that portion of the city (Rincon Hill — q. v.). There have been, since Verba Buena {good herb) was first settled, hundreds of acres of land "made" by grading down and filling in: That portion of the city to east of Montgomery street, between Telegraph Hill and Market street, now the heart of the business section, was formerly mud flats in the Cove (which has been converted from concave to convex), between Rincon and Clark's points, extending one-quarter of a mile into the bay, and laid bare at every low tide. At North Beach and Mis- sion Cove large portions of the bay have also been con- verted to terra firma. The first lot to be made in that manner was just west of the present site of the Bank of California. Oft-times old hulks which had been dismantled and used as store- houses were shut in by the cross wharves from the main wharves, then projecting far into the bay. The hulk of the brig ''Euphemia," then lying at anchor in the Cove, was purchased sometime in August, 1849, to be used as a prison. On the northwest corner of Clay and Sansome streets, the "Niantic," measuring 450 tons, had been hauled up on the beach at high tide and fastened. She was then dismantled and used as a store-ship. The fire of 1851 destroyed that part of her that was above ground. On the site was built the Niantic Hotel, It was after- wards torn down, in 1872, when a large brick building which now occupies the ground was built. A severe wind and rain storm lasting several days did much dam- age to the shipping in December, 1851. Cellars were inundated and the lower streets flooded. Many store- ships were set afloat, and drifted to other quarters. It may be interesting to state here, in connection with our early growth, that as the shipping became very ex- Io8 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE tensive, and as the Commercial-street Wharf was inade- quate, other wharves were extended into the bay, and in 1854 the following wharves had been built: — Abernethy, Clark & Co's Wharf. From Steuart street, east 137 feet, 60 feet wide, 12 feet of water at low tide. It was commenced in March, 1853. Broadway Wharf. From Front street, east 750 feet, 60 feet wide, with 26 feet of water at end. Commenced in the spring of 1851. Central Wharf. In extension of Commercial street from Montgomery street, east 1400 feet, 57 feet wide, 24 feet of water. Commenced in April, 1849. Clay-street Wharf. From Davis street, east 1550 feet, 50 feet wide, 35 feet of water. Commenced in 1853. Flint's Wharf. From Battery street, east 500 feet, 75 feet wide, 25 feet of water. Commenced in February, •853. Front-street Wharf. From Front street, north 170 fvet, 60 feet wide, 24 feet of water. Commenced in March, 1853. Jackson-street Wharf. From Drumm street, east 700 feet, 50 feet wide, 23 feet of water. Commenced in August, 1853 A wharf opening onto this one was built on a line with East street, and was used as a ferry land- ing, 150 feet long, by 50 feet wide. Main-street Wharf. From Market street, south- east to Rincon point, 2000 feet. Market and California-street Wharves. Mar- ket street extended from First over 2200 feet, 40 feet in width and 20 feet of water at low tide. California- street wharf joined Market-street wharf. Commenced in July, 1850. Meiggs' Wharf. From Francisco street, north 1600 feet, 42 feet wide, to Jefferson street; thence east 260 TO SAN FRANCISCO. IO9 feet, and 70 feet wide, with from 10 to 24 feet of water at low tide. Mission-street Wharf. From Main street, north- east 136 feet, 24 feet wide. Commenced in 1853. North Point Docks. From foot of Sansome street, 212 feet to Chestnut, and along Chestnut to Montgomery street, 448 feet, 35 feet of water at low tide. Commenced in June, 1853. Pacific-street Wharf. From Front street, east 1527 feet, 50 feet wide, 26 feet of water. Commenced in April, 1851. RousSET Wharf. From Steuart street, east 137 >^ feet, 45 feet wide, 12 to 17 feet of water at low tide. Commenced in June, 1853. Sacramento-street Wharf. From Davis street, east 800 feet, 33 feet wide, 17 feet of water. Commenced in March, 1852. Steuart- street Wharf. From Market street, southeast 1182 feet to Howard street. This wharf was built by individual property-owners along the line of Steuart street, and was used principally for the lumber trade. Shaw's Wharf. From Battery street, east to Front street 324 feet, 65 feet wide, with 35 feet of water at end. Commenced in June, 1853. Vallejo-street Wharf. From Front street, east 1000 feet, 70 feet wide; with an L opening on the main wharf, north 350 feet, 50 feet wide, with 25 feet of water. It was commenced in June, 1853. Washington STREET Wharf. From Davis street, east 1300 feet, 50 feet wide, and 25 feet of water. Com- menced in October, 1853. (The above information was obtained from one of the early city directories). no SOUVENIR AND GUIDE These were, in time, all filled in, and where large ships were tied up along the wharves or anchored in the stream, are now paved streets and business blocks. These wharves were constructed principally by private individuals and corporations, who, as the shipping in- creased, derived big returns from their investments. In October, 1851, there were in the harbor 451 vessels of various nationalities and rigging. The prices obtained for supplies of all kinds were very large, gold-dust being plentiful; but later prices fluctuated, as cargo after cargo was brought for specu- lation, and disposed of at auction. Rents were cor- respondingly high. Two years later, supplies of all kinds were dumped into the ruts in the streets, there being no purchasers, and as it did not pay to store goods at the existing rates of rents. Wages in 1853 were considerably higher than those paid in the East, and seemed to fluctuate with the influx of population. Journeymen of the following trades re- ceived the following wages per day: — Printers |io Stone Cutters. 10 Bricklayers 10 Ship-carpenters and caulkers 10 Plasterers 9 House carpenters 8 Blacksmiths 8 Watchmakers and jewelers 8 Tinners . 7 Painters and glaziers 6 Longshoremen 6 Tailors 4 (Taken from an early directory.) Vigilance Committee. — In February, 1851, about 200 of the most prominent citizens joined themselves together for the purpose of administering justice, as the number of robberies and murders had increased to an alarming extent, through the laxity and corruption of those entrusted with the punishment and prevention of crime. On June loth, John Jenkins was arrested for stealing a small safe. He was tried and convicted, and TO SAN KKANCISCO. Ill h inji^ed, the next morniiij; at two o'clock, on Brenham Place, opposite Purisinouili Square. James Stuart, a pro- fessional robber and murderer, was tried and sentenced. He was accordingly marched down to the end of Market- street wharf and hanged, July nth. A Second Vigilance Committee was organized immediately after the shooting of James King of William, editor of the "Bulletin," by James P. Casey, May 14, 1856. Casey and Charles Cora, who had murdered U. S. Marshal Richardson, were tried and convicted by a jury composed of the Executive Committee, and hanged. May 22d, in front of the Vigilance Committee head- quarters (called "Fort Gunny-bags "), while the funeral of Mr. King was being observed at Lone Mountain Cemetery. They were given a fair trial, having been supplied with able attorneys. The military companies, organized by the Vigilantes, contained 5000 men, includ- ing three artillery companies. Roads. — A road was constructed around the base of Telegraph Hill, connecting with North Beach. Con- tractors experienced great difficulty in making roadways over the marshes in the vicinity of Seventh and Eighth streets, below Mission, covering in all about 300 acres. The great quantities of sand enabled them to fill in, but ihey would no sooner have it ready than it would sink out of sight. This occurred several times before bed- rock was reached. A plank road, from California street down Kearny to Thnd, and out Mission to P'ifteenth street, was con- structed during the spring of 1851, two and a quarter miles long. The road cost in the neighborhood of ;^ioo,ooo, and was made free in 1853, previous to which a toll-gate had been placed near Kearny street. Another road was constructed on Folsom street, being two and an eighth miles long. 112 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE A plank road connecting with the Presidio was laid out across the hills and Pacific street in 1853. Oregon fir or pine was used to a great extent in paving the streets and sidewalks. It has all been done away with for street pavements, and is little used for sidewalks, except in outside districts. A bridge across Mission Cove, 1200 yards long, con- necting with the Potrero, was built in 1865, at an expense of |6o,ooo. A project was on foot to open Montgomery street in a direct line across Market street to the Potrero, but it fell through in 1869, New Montgomery street (from Market to Howard), being opened in its stead. Second street was cut through Rincon Hill in 1869, at an expense of 1385,000. Kearny street, then forty-five feet wide, was ordered widened by the State Legislature in 1865, work being commenced the next year. It was completed at an expense of l579,ooo, it having been widened thirty feet from Market street to Broadway. That portion of Dupont street now called Grant avenue was widened from Market street to Bush in 1877, Happy Valley was that portion of the city that lay just to the north of Rincon Hill, and extended about five blocks to the west. It was quite a manufacturing district, foundries, ma- chine shops, flour, and lumbermills, etc. The Union Iron Works had its conception here, being started by the Donahue Brothers. Large hills of sand intervened between this section and the Cove. These hills were rapidly removed and transplanted, making firm ground between the then many projecting wharves into the bay. The Hotels of the earlier period were, first, the City Hotel, an adobe building one and a half stories high, erected in 1847 on southwest corner Clay and Kearny streets. It was destroyed in the great fire, June 22, 1851., In 1849, the St. Francis, a three-story frame, on south- TO SAN FRANCISCO. II3 east corner of Clay and Dupont streets, became the most fashionable hotel. The Oriental, on the southwest corner Bush and Battery streets, was a four-story frame, 1851. The Tehama, on the site of the Bank of CaHfornia, was a three-story frame. The International, north side of Jackson street, near Kearny, was a brick structure. The Rassette House, a frame building, was burned down in 1853, rebuilt and called the Metropolitan, which in turn was torn down, making room for the Cosmopolitan. The Severest Earthquake ever felt in this city occurred early in the forenoon of October 21, 1868, killing several people and injuring a great many more, cracking the walls of a number of brick and stone build- ings in the business sections of town, on what was called "made ground." Fires. — Like all other new and growing cities, San Francisco has had its fires, but with more severity than is generally experienced by many. Seven serious fires occurred in the short space of eighteen months. The first, on December 24, 1849, destroyed property to the extent of |i, 000,000. The second, on May 4, 1850, ex- tended over three blocks, and destroyed $4,000,000 worth of property. The third, June 14, 1850, was larger than any of the previous, and did damage to the extent of $5,000,000. The fourth, September 17, 1850, while not so destructive in value, covered an extensive area; damage, I5, 000,000. The fifth, December 14, 1850, burned considerable of the business buildings on the block lo- cated on Sacramento street, below Montgomery; dam- age, $1,000,000. The sixth, May 4, 1851, destroyed eighteen entire blocks and portions of six others, being three-fourths of a mile long and one-half mile wide. There were less than twenty buildings saved in the en- tire area. The loss was between |io, 000,000 and $12,000,000. The seventh, June 22, 1851, destroyed 114 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE property to the extent of I3, 000,000, and covered an area of ten entire and six parts of blocks. The Bear Flag. — The first Bear Flag was raised in Sonoma, June 14, 1846. The Bear party imprisoned Gen. M. G. Vallejo, Jacob P. Leese, and other prominent citi- zens, and declared California independent. The flay; was made of a white bag and an old red flannel shirt, being embellished with a single star, the words "Cali- fornia Republic," and a grizzly bear painted red. It can be seen at the Pioneer Hall. The bill admitting Cali- fornia into the Union as a State was passed by the Senate, August 10, 1850, by a vote of thirty-four ayes against eighteen noes, the noes being all Southerners. It was then brought up in the House of Representatives, and passed, September 7, 1850, with a vote of one hun- dred and fifty ayes and fifty-six noes. In this instance, the noes were also Southerners. The President, Millard Fillmore, signed the bill, September 9, 1850. The news of the admission did not reach San Francisco until October 28, 1850, when the Pacific Mail steamer "Oregon" arrived in port. Business of every description was suspended. Courts adjourned, and the people crowded down towards the wharves to hear the joyful news. Flags were flying from every pole and tree. Large guns in Portsmouth Square were constantly dis- charged. In the evening, bonfires blazed from every hilltop. All the large buildings, public schools, and places of amusement were brilliantly illuminated. Cali- fornia was the thirty-first State in the Union. The Central Pacific Railroad was completed in May, 1869. This placed California in quick communication with the outer world, and numbers of people took ad- vantage of the opportunity to come to California, while another class were as desirous to go to their homes in the East and elsewhere. TO SAN FRANCISCO. NATIVE SONS OF THE erected at junction o^ GOLDEN WEST FOUNTAIN Market, Turk and Ma son Streets, was unveiled Septembers, 1897, by its donor, Hon. James D. Phelan, being dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West, to commemorate the admission of California into the Union, September the ninth, A/nio Doinifii, M D C C C L . It con- sists of a drinking fountain surmounted by a round shaft of pure California granite from Rocklin, which is beautiful in its simpli- city of design. In front of the shaft and facing Market Street is a bronze figure of a min- er with pick uplifted, while in the other hand he floats to the breeze an American flag con- taining the new star representing Califor- nia. Standing on the top of the shaft is an angel with opened book wherein is re- corded the date of admission. The work was conceived and executed by Douglass Tilden, a deaf mute, who also designed and executed "The Baseball Pitcher " a bronze statue in Golden Gate Park, Nau ; .-)wHo ..r the t'.olden Weal Drinking Fountain. i ,m *"3aei TO SAN FRANCISCO. II5 Bayard Taylor, in his "El Dorado," thus describes his first impression of the city (1849): — "The view extended around the curve of the bay, and hundreds of tents and houses appeared, scattered all over the heights and along the shore for more than a mile. A furious wind was blowing down through a gap in the hills, filling the streets with clouds of dust. On every side stood buildings of all kinds, begun or half finished, and the greater part of them were canvas sheds, open in front, and with all kinds of sigi.s in all languages. Great quantities of goods were piled up in the open air, for want of a place to store them. The streets were full of people hurrying to and fro, and of as diverse and bizzarre a charact«r as the houses." SECTION II CENTRAL CALIFORNIA We will attempt in the following pages to describe the country around about San Francisco for a distance varying from loo to 150 miles, or what can be distinctively called "Central California.' In the compiling of this section the writer has had in mind that which appeals to and interests a stranger or tourist; no attempt has been made to sing the praise of our glorious State's agricul- tural, viticultural, or other prospects, that being left to the State's statisticians and historians. It is as Mr. Nordhoff has said, "Though California has been celebrated in books, newspapers, and maga- zines for more than twenty years (now forty) it is really but little known of to the tourist," Note. — The numbers in parenthesis ( ) are cross ref- erences, and refer to the page on which the place is described: thus, (74) refers to page 74, whereon Mt. Tamalpais is described. The Time, Distance, Fares, etc., are all computed as from San Francisco. Union Fkrry Depot— San Francisco. the third city in size (population, 1900, 66,960) in the State, on the east side of San Francisco Bay, is beautifully located on a tract of land stretching to the foot-hills of the Contra Costa range to the east. The business section is admirably situated on the level land reaching to the water front, while the residence section is on the foot-hill land, which alike is scenic and healthful. The water-front property is rapidly increasing in importance with the deepening and improving of the channel, the many factories situated in this locality being in evidence. The streets are broad, well paved, and well kept, and in the residence section lined with luxuriant shade trees. Oakland is justly celebrated for its beautiful homes, there being a number of choice locations, such as near Lake Merritt, Verona Heights, East Oakland and Piedmont Heights. It is well supplied with educational institutions, both public and private. The City Hall is located on Four- teenth street, directly opposite Washington, and the Hall of Records and Court House on Broadway, between Fourth and Fifth streets. The Oakland Public Library is comfortably housed in an artistic and finely- appointed building on Fourteenth street, corner Grove, Il8 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE the gift of Andrew Carnegie, who donated $50,000 towards its erection, etc. There are many beautiful edifices dedicated to the worship of God, representing the various rehgious behefs. Its banks and office buildings are numerous and of the modern style. Hotels are plentiful, being centrally located and conducted under first-class management. Its population has increased over 333^ per cent during the last ten years, and owing to its natural advantages relative to commerce and manufacturing will grow stead- ily. Its harbor is perfectly landlocked and is ideal for ship building, repairing, and docking; it has the only marine railway on the bay. Traffic by rail and steam- ship is rapidly increasing; during 1901 over 5,221,377 tons of freight were handled. Oakland is relatively to San Francisco what Brooklyn is to New York — a place of homes for its merchants. Lake Merritt is a beautiful sheet of water, lying between Oakland and East Oakland. It is an arm of Session's Basin and crossed by three bridges. Excellent rowing and sailing can be here enjoyed; boat house at Eleventh street bridge. East Oakland is on opposite side of Lake Merritt. Here are located many beautiful homes, situated on the rolling foot-hills amidst a perpetual bloom of flowers. No choicer locations for homes can be found than here. Mt. Tamalpais can be seen beyond the waters of the bay, looming up in all its majestic splendor. There are several ways of reaching Oakland froni San Francisco, via Broad Gauge, Narrow Gauge, Sixteenth- street station, or Creek Route. Broad Gauge leaves San Francisco every thirty min- utes (on the half hour); landing at the Mole, train is taken, continuing on as far as Fruitvale, with intermedi- ate stations at West Oakland, Center, Adeline, Market, Souvenirs of California View Books and Fine Photographs of All Parts of California :: :: :: :: Orange Wood, Manzanita, Curly Redwood, and Bark in Attractive and Useful Objects :: :: :: :: :: INDIAN BASKETS SMITH BROS. Booksellers, Stationers, Art Dealers 12(h and Washington Sts. Oakland, Cal. 120 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Broadway, Oak, Clinton, East Oakland, and at Twenty- third street. Narrow Gauge leaves San Francisco every tliirty minutes (on the quarter hour); landing at the Mole, tlie train (one to the left) is taken, continuing on to Four- teenth and Franklin streets. Sixteenth street leaves San Francisco every thirty minutes (on the half hour), taking train for Berkeley. Sixteenth street is one of the stations in Oakkmd. Creek Route leaves San Francisco from foot of Market street every two hours (on the odd hour) and lands at foot of Broadway. Creek Route. — By means of two walls of rock, i,ooo feet long and 800 feet apart, the main channel of San Antonio Creek has been preserved and Oakland's deep- sea shipping secured. Upon entering the channel and leaving the Narrow Gauge Mole on the right, continuing on, the freight slips of the S. P. R. R. are passed on the left, then come extensive ship building yards on either side and other industries. The Oakland Yacht Club's quarters are opposite the landing at foot of Broadway. Two structural iron drawbridges span the channel at Webster and Alice streets, beyond which is Session's Basin, where deep sea-going vessels out of commission, quarter; beyond, it is again spanned by two draw- bridges — Park and High streets (see Tidal Canal page, 122, also page J9). This route affords a delightful trip on the water — fare, 5 cents; time, 35 minutes. Take boat south of Union Depot, San Francisco, or foot of Broadway, Oakland. There are many pretty little trips out of Oakland to be had by taking most any of the car lines. See "All Day for a Dollar" excursion, page 177. Leona Heights is a picturesque natural park in the foot-hills to east of city. Mills Seminary is passed en route. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 121 Fruitvale is a veritable fruit and flower garden. At the end of the electric cars is the Old Homestead and numerous German Sunday resorts. Altenheim, the home for aged Germans, is close by, and Joaquin Miller's home about two miles up in the hillsides. Cars from Eighth and Washington streets, also from Fruit- vale station. Piedmont Sulphur Springs Park, at the end of Piedmont cars; you are as though in private gar- dens — the grounds being so beautifully and artistically laid out. Coursing through the park is an artificial stream flowing down a canon of rare grandeur — leading to a small lake. Here the Sulphur Springs are reached, while just beyond are other springs of sulphur, mag- nesia, and fresh water. The grounds cover 60 acres. Admission, 10 cents. A trip to Berkeley (122) via the Telegraph avenue electric cars, takes one through a pretty residence section, passing the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind Asylum (Parker street) when nearing the University grounds. The return trip can be had via Shattuck avenue and Grove street (electric cars). Both these lines go direct to the Univer- sity grounds — 30 minutes. Alameda (121), on the south side of the estuary, is also reached by electric cars. Fare, 5 cents. Then there is the trip to Haywards, San Leandro, or San Lorenzo. Take cars at Seventh and Washington (electric). After crossing Lake Merritt, you reach East Oakland, a beautiful residence section; the county road is then reached, the suburbs passed through, and Elm- hurst reached. After leaving here, we at once enter a rich farming district, extending from the foot-hills to the bay. Pretty little homes are seen on either side midst groves of fruit trees and gardens of vegetable truck. Crossing San Leandro Creek we come into the old town of 122 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE San Leandro, first settled in 1837, by the Estudillo family, on an old Mexican grant. It now has a popu- lation of 2,253 (1900). The waters of the creek are dammed about two miles up and conveyed to Oakland. Continuing on we come to the junction, where cars can be taken for San Lorenzo, i>^ miles distant. The Alameda County Infirmary is on the opposite side of the roadway on the hillside and covers an area of 124 acres. The section we are now passing through is as rich as any in the State, and supplies the first fruits in the market. Hayvvards, a thriving and prosperous city in the heart of this rich farming district, is next reached. It has a population of 1,905 (1900) and is a favorite summer resort. The county roads are the finest in the State. Vast quantities of fruit from around here are shipped east. At the end of the line is a beautiful and romantic canon, up which about two miles is a sulphur spring. Mountain View Cemetery is situated at the end of Piedmont Avenue, and contains 200 acres of beautifully laid out grounds, somewhat in the shape of an amphi- theatre. There are many fine monuments and vaults, it being considered one of the finest cemeteries on the coast. The Catholic and Jewish cemeteries adjoin it. The street-car system has recently been consolidated, greatly facilitating the means of traversing the suburban districts. ALAMEDA ''^^ Oakland and Berkeley, originally formed part of the old "Peralta grant," and was known as " Encinal de San Antonio" ("Encinal" means*'Oak Grove"). It occupies a peninsula about four miles long by ^4 to i]4. miles wide, lying between San Antonio Creek and the Bay of San Francisco, being south of Oakland, on the east shore of San Francisco Bay. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 123 It is now a beautifully laid out city of 16,464 inhabit- ants (1900), having many fine homes, which in main are of San Francisco merchants. The streets are wide, in fine condition, and abound with shade trees. The main thoroughfare is Park street, extending across the city. The residence section shows every evidence of luxury and elegance. Its City Hall is a fine modern brick structure at the corner of Santa Clara and Oak streets, erected in 1895. Here are located the offices of the municipality and the Alameda Free Library, of 25,000 volumes. Its institutions of learning are of a high order, and its Fire and Police departments efficiently managed. Along the south side are numerous surf-bathing re- sorts. The estuary or ' ' Tidal Canal ' ' is spanned by two structural bridges, one at Park street and the other at High street, where the connection with San Leandro Bay is made. When the canal is completed, Alameda will be an island. Trains from San Francisco come into Alameda at two different points, — Broad Gauge, on north side at Park street; Narrow Gauge, on south side at High street, with intermediate stations. Broad Gauge cars leave San Francisco every thirty minutes, on the half hours, and Narrow Gauge on the quarter hour. Fare, round trip, 20 cents. BERKELEY ^^ ^ beautiful city of homes, having a population (1900) of 13,214, having in- creased nearly threefold during the past ten years. It adjoins Oakland on the north, and lies between the foothills and the bay, facing the Golden Gate. The principal residence section lies on the sloping ground toward the foot-hills, while the business sections are at the various stations along the railroad. The main en- trance to the University grounds is but a short distance from the Berkeley station. The climate is delightful, being free from fogs and winds. 124 * SOUVENIR AND GUTD Berkeley can be reached by three distinct routes, via Broad Gauge ferry (every thirty minutes) and train from Oakland Mole; fare, lo cents; time, 47 minutes; or by two electric lines from Oakland; fare, 5 cents; time, 30 minutes. University of California. — Upon the rolling ground rising from the station towards the foot-hills, covering an area of 245 acres, are the buildings, etc., of the University of California. These are to be gradually replaced by a new "City of Learning," which has been made possible by the forethought and generosity of Regent Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, who supplied the nec- essary funds (150,000), providing for an international architectural contest, with the idea of making this the grandest university in the world. The plans of Mon. E. Benard, of Paris, were selected out of 105 submitted, and a prize of $10,000 awarded him. The University was established by an act of the state Legislature that met in Monterey, September, 1849. This was the same Legislature that sought the admission of California into the Union. Dr. Henry Durant's College of California in Oakland was moulded into the Univer- sity of California in 1867. There are many affiliated colleges in connection with the University of California. The Institute for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind near by; Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamilton (130); Mark Hopkins Institute of Art (16); Wil- merding Polytechnic School, and the Colleges of Law, Dentistry, Medicine, and Veterinary, located in San Francisco (14). A new college, that of commerce, has recently been created, and a commercial museum is being established. Strawberry Creek flows through the grounds. The Institute for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind being an educational institution as well, is endowed by the Map showing various railroads between San Francisco, San Jose, Santa Cruz, and Monterey. 126 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE State. The several buildings are just to the south of the University grounds. Get off electric cars at Parker street. School between 8 and i o'clock. Entrance can be had any day. COAST LINE BROAD GAUGE Out of San Francisco, via Third and Townsend Streets. After a short run of ten minutes Valencia street station is reached We then commence to pass through the suburbs, passing on the right the Branch City Jails, and going through a rich vegetable and pasturage dis- trict, where in spring the eschscholtzia (California poppy) grows in great abundance. From Ocean View a distant view of the glorious old Pacific Ocean can be seen breaking on the beach. Laguna Honda, one of San Francisco's water reservoirs, can also be seen. The several cemeteries are passed on the left. Tanforan Racing Grounds are now passed, and the trip is contin- ued on down the west side of the bay and on into the Santa Clara Valley. BURLINGAME ^^ ^^ summer home of many of San Francisco's wealthier population. <5AN MATEO ^^ ^ pretty little town of suburban homes, with a population ot 1,832 (1900). Stage connects here for Half Moon Bay, Puris- sima, San Gregorio, and Pescadero, a famous fishing resort. BELMONT is next reached. Here are located several private schools and colleges and many hands )me residences. Climate throughout this section ij all that can be desired. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 127 REDWOOD CITY ^^^ county seat, is a prospercus city of 1.653 inhabitants {igo) to the west of which are large forests of redwood. It has both rail and water facilities for shipping, being located near the waters of San FVancisco Bay. MENLO PARK ^^^^ '^^^^ ^^^ located the homes of many of California's multi-million- aires. The country through here has a remarkably fine and uniform climate. The soil is very productive, and dairying is a thriving industry. PALO ALTO Upon crossing the San Francisquito creek, guarded by its single "Palo Alto" tree, the last of its race in the valley, we enter the University town of Palo Alto, with its 1,658 souls (1900). The University grounds are a short distance to the right, and upon approaching, one is at once en- chanted by their magnificent and stately outlines, pre- senting a unique appearance in their old mission style of architecture. There are twelve buildings connected by an open arcade, enclosing an area of 3^ acres, form- ing the inner quadrangle. In addition to these main buildings there is the Museum, open from 10 to 5, Robbie Hall (girls' dormitory), Encina Hall (boys' dormitory), the chemistry building and chapel. The "Frat " houses, post-office, and professors' homes are a short distance off" from main buildings. Mrs. Stanford's residence, the Palo Alto stock farm, the Aboretum and the Mausoleum are off" the main road to the right. The University grounds were dedicated May 14, 1887, and classes opened Oct. i, 1891, with 500 students. Tuition is free. This grand institution of learning was planned as a memorial, by the late Senator Leiand Stanford, to his deceased son, Leiand Jr. Over 130,000,000 have been dedicated for its use. This is the greatest individual 128 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE "ift ever made for any purpose in the world's history. A bus can be hired at the depot at a small charge, to convey you to and around the grounds. The white dome of Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamil- ton, off to the left, on the highest peak of the ridge, can be seen while approaching Santa Clara. SANTA CLARA This vast and productive valley cov- ^^'-^^^ ers an area of 1,754 square miles in the center of the State, just south of San Francisco Bay. Its soil is extremely rich and productive, producing a greater income than any other county of the United States. It has the largest seed farm and fruit drying plants in the world. Hundreds of thousands of acres are under cultivation of apricots, prunes, peaches, straw- berries (always first in market), and grapes. About twelve miles distant from San Jose are the New Almaden quicksilver mines, the second largest in the world. The educational systems cannot be surpassed, — Leland Stanford, Jr., University, at Palo Alto; State Normal School and College of Notre Dame, at San Jose; Uni- versity of the Pacific, at College Park; Santa Clara Col- lege, at Santa Clara, besides the many public schools and private institutions. Congress Springs, with its medicinal waters, 12 miles from San Jose; Alum Rock, 7 miles; Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamilton, 26 miles east, add to its attractions. Then there are several good-sized towns, — San Jose, Santa Clara, Gilroy, Palo Alto, Los Gatos, etc. Its system of country roads and driveways can not be excelled. The climate of this delightful valley is mild and uniform, being protected on the west by the wooded Santa Cruz Mountains, and on the east, from the warmth of the San Joaquin Valley, by Mt. Hamilton spur. SANTA CLARA ^^ ^^^ next place of note. Popula- tion 3,650 (1900). Here are located the buildings of the Santa Clara Colleges on the site of TO CENTRAL CALIFORNTA. 129 the old Santa Clara Mission, founded January 12, 1777. The old original cross still stands (encased in wood) in a little park in front of the church. The walls of the old Mission were removed so as to afford more room, but the ceiling above the altar still remains and is a beauti- ful specimen of Indian painting. There is a fine collec- tion of old books in the library, which is well worth seeing. Here are carefully guarded an old choir book over 500 years old, and the old baptismal books. Tnis is a city of pretty homes. It is connected by electric cars with San Jose, on the "Alameda," a beau- tiful shaded drive three miles long, originally laid out by the missionaries. College Park, University of the Pa- cific, is midway towards San Jose, get off at University avenue. SAN JOSE (Sau Hoza^) population 21,500 (1900), has been appropriately called the " Garden City," for the ]:)rofusion and beauty of its flowers. It is the county seat and largest city in the valley, and has many fine buildings and residences. The streets run north and south, east and west, are broad, bituminized, and well kept, and commence to number from First and Santa Clara, the center of the business section. The Broad Gauge trains enter on the north side and the Nar- row Gauge on the west side of the city. The Post-office, costing J 200,000, is a fine, modern, red sandstone build- ing, facing the City Hall, which is of brick, and cost ;^i 50,000. Here are located the municipal offices. The Hall of Records and Court House (a fine view is to be had from the dome) are on North First street, facing St. James Park, one of the city's beautiful breathing spots. The State Normal School and San Jose High School arj located in Washington Square, between Fourth and Seventh, San Carlos and San Fernando streets. The Carnegie Library is to occupy the northwest corner of Fourth and San Fernando streets. The College of Notre T30 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Dame occupies a square block on West Santa Clara street. The Oak Hill and Jewish Cemeteries are four miles out on the Monterey road (take South First street cars) and the Calvary Cemetery is on the Alum Rock road (take Alum Rock cars). It has one first-class theater, Victory, several first-class hotels, Hotel Ven- dome, and the St, James, both on North First street. There are six banks. At Market street and West Santa Clara avenue rises a structural iron tower 200 feet, with electric lights of 24,000 candle-power. Throughout the residence section poles 150 feet high support electric lights. Owing to the fine roadways through the valley, cycling and driving are much indulged in. The first State Legislature met in this city on De- cember 13, 1849. Its settlement dates back to November, 1777, when a party of Mexican soldiers established them- selves at what they called the "Pueblo of San Jose de Guadalupe," Franciscan friars having established the mission at Santa Clara a short while before. There are many beautiful drives to be had out from San Jose, notably to Mt. Hamilton (130), to Alum Rock (below), Palo Alto (126), New Almaden Quicksilver Mines, Los Gatos (138), and Pacific Congress Springs (138), and many other points round about San Jose. In order to see these various famous resorts advan- tageously, it is suggested that a conveyance be procured. Those of the Lick Stables are most reliable, as here you can obtain experienced drivers as well as courteous treatment. They are thoroughly familiar with every inch of the Santa Clara Valley, and can make the trips ex- ceedingly interesting. Address 20 and 22 East San Fernando street near First. Phone, Main 301. Alum Rock. — This is in a delightful little canon of the Coast Range, to the east of San Jose (seven miles by road and eight by cars), of 400 acres. There are two springs, one of sulphur and the other of soda water. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. I3I which is exceedingly pleasant to the taste. There are also tub and tank baths of sulphur water. The road crosses over to the east side of the valley to the foot-hills, passing through orchards and vineyards to the mouth of the caiion, where it follows along the banks of the " Pen- itencia" (so called from the missionaries who came here annually to do penance), crossing and recrossing and winding on up until the springs are reached. Fare from San Jose on cars, 30 cents round trip, but the drive is much more enjoyable. This park belongs to the city. The trip by steamer from San Francisco to San Jose affords one a delightful sail down the bay, forty-five miles, to the "embarcadero " Alviso, thence nine miles by bus to San Jose, traveling through rich grain fields and fruit orchards. Steamer leaves daily (except Satur- day) at 10 A. M., from Bulkhead between Washington and Jackson streets. Fare to Alviso, 43 cents; San Jose, 50 cents; round trip, fi.oo. Fare, I1.25; time, two hours; distance, fifty-one miles via Broad Gauge. Fare, I1.25; time, two hours; dis- tance, forty-eight miles via Narrow Gauge. LICK OBSERVATORY ^n the summit of Mt. Ham- ilton, 4,209 feet above the level of the sea, is located the Lick Observatory, an Affiliated College of the University of California, at Berkeley. The site was selected in 1875. The land was granted by an Act of Congress June 7, 1876, consisting of 1,350 acres; through additional grants and purchases it now has an area of 2,581 acres. The road to the sum- mit was built by the county in 1876, at a cost of $78,000, and is a feat of mountain engineering as well as one of the most picturesque of mountain roads. The telescope was mounted in 1887, and has a disc of thirty-six inches, being one of the largest and most powerful in the world. There are also a number of smaller instruments devoted to other branches. Cost of instruments alone has been 132 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE |iii,9o6, and the buildings, etc., $500,000. The observa- tory is twenty-six miles by road from San Jose, but only thirteen in an air line, and can be reached by stages that leave every morning from the Lick Stables, No. 20 East San Antonio street. The best time to go is Saturday, as you can then look through the big telescope, the observ- atory being open from 7 to 10 p. m. On other days and nights (during office hours) visitors are shown through the building and lesser instruments. A grand view is to be had from the summit and from various points along the road, while below you stretches out one of the grandest and most productive valleys in the world (127). There are no overnight accommodations at the summit, but excellent accommodations can be had at the hotel at Smith's Creek, where the horses were changed and lunch procured on the ascent. After leaving San Jose on the Broad Gauge the next point of interest is riLROY ^ thriving city of 1,850 population (1900), in the midst of a vast and fertile agricultural country. Here cars are taken for Hollister and Tres Pinos, and the stage for the Gilroy Hot Springs, 14 miles distant, which are excellent for general debility and all blood diseases. Turning toward the coast we at once pass through the Coast Range, crossing the San Benito River, and on down into the Pajaro Valley, one of the most productive in the State. PAJARO ^^^^ ^^^ here taken for Watsonville (136) and Santa Cruz (141). CASTROVILLE ^^ ^^^ head of the famous Salinas Valley, is next reached. Here the main line, which traverses the famous wheat-producing Salinas Valley, the " Coast Line," " Sunset Limited " for TO CENIRAL CALIFORNIA. 133 Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and all points east, is left, and we continue on towards the coast. DEL MONTE (^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ forest). Upon alighiing from the train and passing on into the grounds of Del Monte, we are as in a wondrous garden of fairyland. Let us come at whatever season of the year we choose, at every turn can be seen all that is grand and beautiful. The grand old pines and cypress, the landscape gardening, the far-reaching beds of gre< n grass, the exotic garden of cacti, the mystic maze, and the beautiful lake, form charms both natural and culti- vated that make this one of the most famous resorts in the world. The ground covers an area of 126 acres. Del Monte is conceded to have the most beautiful and delightful climate in the State. Hunting and fishing are to be enjoyed. A short distance from the hotel grounds on the beach towards the old town of Monterey, is the bathing pavilion, where the bather can enjoy a cold plunge, or a tempered bath, or a dip in the surf is to be had. The hotel itself, of magnificent proportions, con- tains over 500 rooms, is 380 feet long by 115 feet in width, with an east and west annex 280x40. Monterey is one mile distant, and can be reached by train or street-car. MONTEREY PoP'^ilation 1,748 (1900). Here we see the relics of the past mingled with the present, for it was at this quaint old town that the Span- iards settled in the year 1770. It is one of the oldest settlements on the coast. Here it was that Don Sebas- tian Viscaino in 1602 landed, taking possession of the country for King Philip III of Spain, under whose orders he had sailed. He named the place Monterey in honor of Gaspar de Zuniga, the Count of Monterey, the Span- ish Viceroy of Mexico; but it was not until 1769, when Gaspar de Portola, governor of Monterey, and party TO MONTERElir TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 135 came overland from San Diego, that the place was again settled. In the following year, June 3, 1770, Father Junipero Serra arrived on the vessel "San Antonio," also from San Diego, On a slight eminence off the road towards Pacific Grove is to be seen a monument erected by Mrs. Leland Stanford to commemorate his landing; at the base of the hill is a wooden cross showing the exact place of landing. Coming into town, we see near the wharf the Old Custom House and San Carlos Mission. old custom house, where Gen. John C. Fremont had his headquarters. The relics of a fort established by him can be seen on the hillside above the Serra monument. Many of the old adobe buildings can be seen even to this day, and massive ruins are to be seen almost every- where. Passing through the town and up near the cem- eteries is to be seen one of the old missions, San Carlos, founded by Serra June 3, 1770; it is a picturesque old church, and resembles very much the one at Carmel Bay; 136 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE in fact, the settlement was removed to the valley of Carmel River the following year. Monterey played a very important part in the early settlement and history of California. It was the seat of the Spanish and Mexican government in California, both military and civil, and remained so until its capture in 1846, when it was occupied as the capital of California by the Americans. The first constitution was framed here in 1849. The first American flag raised in this State was at Monterey on Oct. 19, 1842, when Commodore Jones, in command of the frigate "United States" and the corvette "Cyane," seized the place as the capital of the country for the United States. Learning his mistake, he hauled it down and apologized. War breaking out in 1846 between the United States and Mexico, Commodore Sloat, of the U. S. Navy, captured the place and raised the American flag July 7, 1846. Aside from the historic interest, its nearness to " Del Monte'*' and Pacific Grove, with their natural and wonderful attractions, makes it very popular. The 18-mile drive can be had from here as well as Pacific Grove or Del Monte. In the Govern- ment Reservation on the hill back of the town is being erected a monument to the memory of Commodore Sloat, each county in the State contributing a stone for the pedestal; there will also be one from the army and one from the navy. Dedicated July 7, 1896. Fare, $3-00; time, 414^ hours; distance, 126 miles. MONTEREY BAY ^^^ waters of this bay are of a deep blue hue, and afford facilities for bathing, fishing, and boating which are unexcelled. Whales in large numbers often sport about. In fact, Monterey was a large whaling seaport. On the beach midway between Monterey and Pacific Grove is a Cjjinese fishing village, which, to the curious, will fully repay a visit. It was on the shores of this bay that the TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 137 brigfantine "Natalie," which conveyed Napoleon from Elba to the shores of France, found its final resting-place, 1843. The stem is in the museum in Golden Gate Park, The sands on the beach are peculiarly adapted for the making of glass. One hundred and twenty-six known species of fish have been fuund in this bay. See articles on Santa Cruz ^142), Pacific Grove (below) and Del Monte (133V PACIFIC GROVE ^^ "^ ^''^ "<->^v at our journey's end. This delightful seaside resort and place of annual conference of the M. E. Church is now a charming city of 1,411 population (1900). It is situated on a wooded peninsula, with the waters of the Pacific and Monterey Bay lapping its shores. It has a beautiful and well -protected beach for surf bathing; the John Hop- kins Seaside Laboratory is near by. There are many points of interest — the lighthouse on Point Pinos (ex- tension of Lighthouse Road), 15-minute walk, open Tuesdays and Fridays, 10 a. m., 3 p. m., the cycle path (lo-mile course) through the cypresses and along the beach, and the " 18-mile drive," which takes you through groves of pines and cypress, along the "moss" and "pebble" beaches, past the seal rocks, and on to Cypress Point and over to the old Carmel Mission, estab- lished 1770. At this mission repose the remains of Fa- thers Junipero Serra and Crespi and fifteen governors of this Province and State. The return is up over the divide, down through the Del Monte grounds, and on through the old town of Monterey. This is a delightful and never-to-be-forgotten ride. The "El Carmelo " is the leading hotel. Santa Cruz is on the upper end (twenty- five miles across) of the crescent-shaped Monterey Bay. Monterey, distant two and one-half miles, and Del Monte, three miles, can be reached by train or by'the street-car. WATSONVILLE ^^^^ '^ ^ thriving and prosperous city of 3,528 population (1900), 138 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE backed by the wonderfully rich and productive Pajaro Valley, where drought has never been known. Vast quantities of apples, the best in the State, are shipped from here annually. It is on the Broad Gauge to Santa Cruz. Beet-sugar industry outranks all other localities in the State. APTOS AND are two seaside resorts en route to Santa CAPITOLA Cruz. They are extremely popular and well patronized, being open the year round. SCENIC ROUTE. For San Jose, Los Gatos and Santa Cruz via Narrow Gauge Route. Upon taking the Narrow Gauge ferry-boat at Union Depot, foot of Market street, and landing at Alameda Mole, the train is taken, which passes through Alameda (121), and while paralleling the Broad Gauge track it follows more closely the bay shore. WEST SAN LORENZO (^^^ ^^^*^ P^^^ ^44)- The salt industry is carried on very extensively all throughout these marshes we are now passing, and great mounds of salt, evaporated from the waters of the bay, are to be seen everywhere. ALVARADO ^^""^ ^^^ some of the most productive and successful sugar-beet properties in the State, producing over 50,000 pounds per day. Salt has been recovered from the waters of San Francisco Bay in this vicinity ever since 1848-49. NEWARK ^^ next reached. This is a thriving and industrious town. Here are located large car-shops, where many of the cars operating in and out of San Francisco, are manufactured. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 139 ALVISO '^ situated on the lower end of San Francisco Bay, forty-five miles distant by water and thirty-eight by rail. It is the port of entry by water for San Jose. Steamers from San Francisco land here and connect with a line of buses for San Jose, nine miles distant. This affords one a delightful sail on the bay and a charm- ing drive through fruit orchards and grain fields. Fare (by water) to Alviso, 40 cents; San Jose, 50 cents; round trip, $1.00. AG NEWS ^^""^ '^ located a State Insane Asylum, built at a cost of |8oo,ooo. SANTA CLARA ^^^7) and San Jose (128) are soon reached and the road continues on to Santa Cruz (141) via Los Gatos. After leaving San Jose (128) on the Narrow Gauge, we commence to climb gradually up through the Santa Clara Valley, amid orchards and vineyards of wonderful productiveness, fruit from this section generally being the first in the market. Here is the home of the prune. LOS GATOS (^^^y ^^ ^^^ Cats) at the head of the valley, is reached. It is considered as one of the most health-invigorating spots in the State. Here are located many fruit-canning and drying plants, giving employment to thousands during the season. Population 1,915 (1900). Here are also to be found the largest almond orchards in the world. PACIFIC CONGRESS six miles distant from Los SPRINGS Gatos, in the Santa Cruz Mountains, is an ideal summer and winter resort, being open the year through. WRIGHT Sunset Park, the favorite picnic grounds, are located here. Immediately after leaving the station we enter a tunnel two miles long, emerging 140 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE at another favorite summer camping district. We have now crossed the divide and are on our way down to the coast. LAUREL We are now in the midst of the Santa Cruz Mountains, about fifteen miles from the coast, and at an altitude of 910 feet. The air is healthful and invigorating, which, coming direct from the ocean, is tempered by the dense growth of gigantic redwood, firs, etc., which can be seen in every direction. There are numerous camping grounds throughout the en- tire mountain system, and many famous mineral springs. Vast quantities of tan bark of an excellent quality are obtained through- out this district. pp. -|-QK| is next reached. Here cars are changed for Boulder Creek, etc., and you at once find yourself traversing the foot- hills of the Ben Lomond Range and following the San Lorenzo River, leading into a series of camping grounds. ROWARDENNAN is first passed, then Ben Lomond, and on to Boulder Creek, which is about thirteen miles from Santa Cruz. Hotels are numerous and camping outfits can be rented on the grounds. Hunting, fishing, bathing, and boating can be enjoyed to one's heart's content, and the climate is as In the Santa Cruz Mountains. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 14 1 healtliful and invigorating' as can be found anywhere. Continuing on, on the mam Hne, you reach the BIG TREES Hce is to be seen a grove of the fa- mous Sequoia sempervirens, or Big Tree redwoods. Some ot these trees are something grand in their majestic magnitude, rising straight up into the air over 300 feet, and being 70 feet in circumference at tlieir base. There are several single trees that are worthy of mention. The "General Fremont" is 270 feet high. 70 feet at the base, and has a cavern that extends 25 feet up into the heart of the tree, the floor of which is 12x18 feet. It was burned many years ago, before the discovery of the grove. General Fre- mont camped in this grove and at the base of this tree when on a surveying expedition for the U. S. Govern- ment in 1846. A short distance away is to be seen a trough cut out of a fallen tree, where he tanned leather, the t^n o^ feet thick, and enclose a court 300 by 150 feet. The building in the center is all of the original fort that remains; its walls are of old adobe bricks and lYz feet thick. There is a collection of old relics here also. 152 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE The E. B. Crocker Art Gallery, corner O and Second streets. Take Third street cars. Admission free between 10 and 4. Here is to be seen the finest collection of art and paintings on the coast, being valued at over half a million dollars, and was the gift of Mrs. E. B. Crocker to the city. There are 701 paintings in the collection, many after the old schools, such as Vandyke, Murillo, Rubens, Meissner, etc. The place of honor is given to Hill's masterful "Yosemite Valley." State Mineral Cabinet is on the lower floor. Here are many fine specimens of mineral ores of every descrip- tion. Another interesting sight are the levees that have been thrown up along the river banks. Large ships came up the river in the early fifties to the city, the water being deeper then than now. During the winter of '49 and '50 the water rose very high and flooded the city. Then these levees were built at an enormous cost. They sometimes give away, allowing the water of the river to do sad havoc. Hundreds of thousands of dollars have been spent on this river repairing breakages. The town of Broderick is on the opposite side. There are numerous hotels, the principal being Golden Eagle and Capital, both on corners of K and Seventh streets. A trip up the bay and river on one of the steamers affords one a very pleasurable trip, leaving San Fran- cisco at I p. M., arriving at Sacramento during the night; return trip leaves Sacramento at 10 a. m. next day, arriving at San Francisco that night late. Fare each way, I1.50; meals, 50 cents; berth, 50 cents. This trip enables you to see the upper bay on the trip up and the upper river on return trip. Take boat south of Union Depot. This is the largest fruit-shipping point in the State, and during the season the loading and icing of the TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 153 refrigerator cars along the river front is an interesting sight. Via Niles and Stockton, 140 miles; fare, I3.30; time, 6>< hours. Via Martinez and Stockton, 151 miles; fare, $3-30; time, 60 hours. Via Benicia, 90 miles; fare, $3.30; time, 32 hours. Via river steamer, 125 miles; fare, $1.50; time, about 12 hours. CALIFORNIA NORTHWESTERN RAILWAY. TIBURON (shark) is reached by taking one of the large and commodious ferry-boats of the California Northwestern Railway, from Union Depot, foot of Market street, affording a delightful sail on the bay, passing along the City Front (34), Alcatraz (14), Angel Island (15), getting a distant view of the Golden Gate (50), and Presidio (84), and upon nearing Tiburon you pass Raccoon Straits (86), and the Quarantine Sta- tion (86). Tiburon is the railroad terminus for trains going through the famous Sonoma Valley, the Russian River country, and on up to Ukiah and Willits. Off to the left is Corinthian Yacht Club's quarters, while beyond this is g^l_y^Q^P^ a beautiful suburban town. (Take bus, 10 cents round trip). This is one of the most charming spots around the bay. Here can be seen the homes of many San Franciscans snugly nestled on the lee side of Belvedere Island. Fare, Tiburon, 25 cents round trip; distance, 6^ miles; time, 30 minutes. Upon leaving Tiburon, Richardson's Bay (87) is skirted, and upon emerging from the second tunnel, Mt. Tamalpais (74) looms up in all its majestic magnitude, off to our left. GREEN BRAE ^^ree miles off to the right are to be seen the massive walls and watch- SOUVKNIK AN'I) C.IIDI':. 155 towers of San Ouentin State Prison, while at the left Ml. Tamalpais still remains in view. We soon are able to see off to the right the upper end of San Francisco Bay, and the Marin Islands a short distance from the shore. SAN RAFAEL Snugly nestled and hidden amongst the thick and luxuriant foliage, and encircled by hills, lies the beautiful suburban city of San Rafael, noted the world over for its healthful and invigo- rating climate, making it a winter and health resort greatly appreciated by eastern tourists and invalids. Hotel Rafael, located in the eastern part of the city in a park of 40 acres, is among the finest in the west. Two railroads enter the city, the California Northwestern and the North Shore Railway. Mt. Tamalpais Military Academy and several other institutions of learning are located here. Population, 3,879 (1900). A beautiful scenic boulevard of i>^ hours' drive connects with Tiburon. Stages also connect for Bolinas, a beautiful mountain drive to the coast, on arrival of 9:30 train from San Francisco on the N. S. R. R. Fare, 50 cents round trip. Several trains daily. Dis- tance, 15 and 18 miles respectively. The first engagement between the Americans and Mexicans, upon the Declaration of Independence from Mexican Government by California, was fought near here. Eight Mexicans were killed and many taken prisoners. This was in 1846. The old Mission San Rafael Arch- angel, established in 1817, has been replaced by a more modern structure. IGNACIO Approaching here a rich pasturage section is passed through. Cars are here taken for Sonoma and Glen Ellen. NOVATO About here are located some of the finest dairying districts in the State, as well as the largest poultry section. A fine grade of basaltic rock is quarried near by. 156 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE p^-py^j_ij|^^ (Indian name meaning "Duck Hill"), at the head of navigation on river of same name, is peculiarly dubbed an "inland seaport." It is a thriving and prosperous city of 3,871 souls (1900), with many industries. It has four banks and many fine buildings, showing evidence of great commercial facili- ties. It is the center of a rich farming district, producing vast quantities of hay, wheat, poultry, and eggs. The river shipment fr. m Petaluma of hay and eggs was 60,000 tons and 2,500,000 dozen respectively for year ending June 15, 1901. Gen. M. G. Vallejo in 1846 built the first house, an adobe building and stockade. SANTA ROSA ^^^ county seat, has a population of 6,673 (1900) and shows steady and healthful growth. It has two railroads, the California Northwestern entering on the west side and the Southern Pacific on the east side. A fine view can be had of the city and surrounding country from the dome of the Court House, showing mile after mile of orchards, vine- yards, and hay, grain, and corn fields, extending over the valley. It has a public library, four banks, fine municipal buildings, many fine business blocks and buildings, wide, well-kept streets, a water system that can not be excelled, and everything that goes to make up a thriving and growing city. Its homes are literally covered with bowers of roses, which can also be seen in great profusion everywhere. There are many pretty drives, to wit: Mark West Springs, 9 miles; fare, $1.00; Sebastopol, 6 miles; Glen Ellen, 15 miles; and to Petrified Forest, 16 miles (168). FULTON H^^6 cars can be taken for Guerneville and the famous Russian River country, passing- through groves and forests of the giant redwood, rising from 100 to 300 feet. This is a famous camping, hunting, TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 157 and fishing district, as well as lumber-producing country. Stages are taken for Alturia, two miles distant. MARK WEST ^^^' ^^' ^^^^"^ (167) looms up in all its majestic sublimeness off to the right and can be seen for many miles. WINDSOR ^^^ '^^^ "*^^ traversing a section of the State particularly adapted to the cultivation of the grape, as indicated by the rich red soil and hillside lands. HEALDSBURG '^ '^ pretty city of 1,869 inhabitants (1900), on the banks of the Russian River, the rich bottom lands of which are of inexhausti- ble fertility. It is the center of a large fruit-packing and wine-growing district, hunting and fishing. LYTTON H^''^ ^^^ located the famous Lytton Springs — of a health-giving and invigorating mineral water, both seltzer and soda. It is a favorite summer resort and sanitarium. GEYSERVILLE ^^^^ ^^^^ stage is taken for a nine- mile drive into the mountains, through Dry Creek Valley and the Warm Spring Canon to Skaggs Springs of hot mineral waters, another of the many resorts in Santa Rosa Valley for the health and pleasure seeker. AST I ^^ ^^^ "*-*^ "^ ^'^^ famous vineyard of the Italian-Swiss Colony, covering 2,000 acres. They have ihe largest wine tank in the world, holding a half a million gallons of wine. The wines from this section have been awarded many gold medals at expo- sitions in America and Europe. CLOVERDALE ^^ ^^ ^^^ head of the Santa Rosa Valley, where are grown oranges, lemons, figs, limes, and other citrus fruits. Here the stage is taken for 158 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE THE GEYSERS ^^^^ is one of the most wonderful spots on the earth's surface, and of all the sight seeing to be had in this wonderful State of California, The Geysers in Sonoma County far excels (excepting Yosemite Valley). After a delightful drive of three hours, sixteen miles up the canon, following Sul- phur Creek, the hotel grounds are reached. From the veranda can be seen the vapor as it rises from the canon, and be heard the screeching of the "Steamboat Geyser." Crossing the creek, you at once enter the canon, where are to be seen the " Epsom Salts Springs," the "Iron and Sulphur Springs," temperature 208° Fahr.; the "Devil's Inkstand," the " Punch Bowl," "Geyser Smokestack," and hundreds of others as curious and interesting sights. Eggs are boiled hard in one minute. A trail leads up the caiion, returning via "Steamboat Geyser," Guides are furnished. There is also at the "Fig Tree" a "Lemon Spring," and an "Ink Well," only an arm's length apart. Hot mineral baths are here to be had, also excellent hunting and fishing. Season opens May i. HOPLAND Upon leaving Cloverdale the banks of the Russian River are skirted for about fifteen miles. This is an ideal fishing ground. We now enter the famous hop-growing district, which extends in every direction for miles. Stages are taken here for Dun- can Springs, Highland Springs, Kelseyville, Carlsbad Springs, Lakeport, Soda Bay, and Bartlett Springs. UKIAH (^'^il'^io, a tribe of Indians), the former ter- minus of the California Northwestern Railroad, is finally reached. Here is located the county seat of Mendocino County. It is a thriving and prosperous city, of 1,850 inhabitants (1900), with many fine buildings, banks, and places of commercial followings. " Palace" and "Grand" are the leading hotels. A great number TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. ^ 5*-) of the " Digger" Indians live in this neighborhood, and can be seen working in the hop helds. Many are pros- perous farmers themselves, and all are self-supporting. There are a number of interesting points about here; the Fish Hatchery, owned by the railroad, in Gibson Canon, one mile; Vichy Springs, three miles distant, where a champagne bath can be enjoyed; the Insane Asylum, three miles; and by stage to Saratoga and Orr's Hot Springs, Blue, Upper, and Laurel Dell Lakes, and many other famous resorts. WILL ITS twenty-five miles beyond, is the present terminus of the line, and in the midst of the famous redwood district, for which Mendocino County is celebrated. Beyond are the Hoopa Valley and Round Valley Indian Reservations. After leaving Ignacio going towards Sonoma, you pass through a famous duck-hunting country. Crossing the mouth of Petaluma Creek, RECLAMATION '^ reached. Here are the sugar- beet properties, and more hunting is to be enjoyed. SCHELLVILLE ^s soon reached, and we are now in the rich valley of Sonoma, as is evidenced by the orchards and vineyards. SONOMA VALLEY ^^^^^<^ famous for its fertility of soil, equable climate, mineral springs and health resorts. Drought is unknown. "Sonoma" was the famous chief of the Chocuyen Indians, and means "Valley of the Moon." SONOMA ^^'^ ^^ ^" historic old town, there being several relics of the old pioneer days to be seen yet. The old adobe government and mission buildings are still standing, although somewhat dilapi- l6o SOUVENIR AND GUIDE dated. It was first settled by whites on July 4, 1823, when Father Altimira founded a mission about where the Catholic Church now stands. The Pueblo (town site) was laid out by Gen. M. G. Vallejo, in 1835, the principal buildings surrounding a plaza, in which stands the flag pole, on which the " Bear Flag" was raised (see page 114), and where a memorial tree has been planted in honor of the first governor of California, General Vallejo. GLEN ELLEN We are now at the end of the line and in the midst of one of the richest vine- yard sections in the world. Round about here are numerous wineries. This is a favorite and delightful summer camping country. Hunting, fishing, and driving are to be en- joyed. There are numerous sulphur and mineral springs. The Home for Feeble-minded Children is located here. The .Southern Pacific also enters the town just above the station. SACRAMENTO VIA Port Costa and Benicia. The first half of this trip from San Francisco to Port Costa is described under head of vStockton via Martinez, on pages (161). PORT COSTA (see also page 162). Here the train is taken in sections on the large ferry- boat "Solano," and conveyed across the Straits of Carquinez (Kar-kee-nez) to Benicia, on the opposite side, \% miles distant. This is the largest boat of its kind in the world, being 424 feet long and 116 feet wide, having TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. l6l four tracks, and is capable of holding twenty-four pas- senger or forty-eight freight cars. This trip across is made in twelve minutes. BENICIA '^ ^-^^ ^^^ opposite side of the straits, and where the train resumes its journey over- land. It is at the head of navigation in the upper bays, and in the days of the " gold excitement " threatened to rival Verba Buena (San Francisco) for supremacy, as here were established the United States military and naval stations and the depot of the P. M. S. S. Co. It has twice been the capital of the State, the seat of government being removed in spring of 1854. Manufacturing of agricultural implements and the building of ships are extensively carried on, as is the tanning of leather. United States Arsenal and Barracks are about one mile from town. Sacramento and San Joacjuin River boats always land here. A bus line, which meets the train, runs over to Vallejo twice a day. SLJISUN (tribe of Indians) is next reached. Here cars can be taken for Vallejo, Napa Junction, etc., via Napa Junction. Tolenas Springs and the " Cali- fornia Onyx" quarries lie in the hills about seven miles north. Mt. Diablo (163), on the opposite side, can be seen overtowering the ridge of the Coast Range. The cool atmosphere of the water is now left and the warmer interior climate met. ELM IRA '^ ^'^ the midst of a vast agricultural district, opening up into Vaca Valley. Cars are here taken for Vacaville, Winters, Woodland, etc., traversing a vast fruit and grain country. DAVIS ^^ next reached. Here the Portland Express joins the main line for '* Frisco." We now reach a vast tract of swamp lands, which is crossed by long trestles and embankments. During certain seasons, 162 SOITVKNIK AND GUIDE this vast tract is overflowed, and it is as though we were in the midst of a vast inland sea. This is what you see from the dome of the Capitol. BRODERICK oPPOsite Sacramento, is now reached. The river here is spanned by a fine rail- road and foot-bridge (draw) 600 feet long, which, crossed, you are in Sacramento, the capital of the State, for a description of which see pages (150-153). STOCKTON VIA Martinez. Upon crossing on the ferry (Broad Gauge) and taking the train at the Mole, you immediately skirt along the Bay Shore of Oakland, and, while passing through the west end of the university town of Berkeley, a distant view of the Marin County shore can be seen, terminating at Lime Point (65) and Point Bonita (80) as well as the peninsula on which San Francisco is situated, with the Golden Gate Strait (50) passing oceanward between them Alcatraz Island (14), Goat Island (50), and Angel Island (15) are to be seen in the bay, with Mt. Tamalpais (74) standing out majestically against the sky line. Red Rock, standing, sentinel like, guarding the approach to the upper bays, is just off Point Richmond (170), the Santa Fe's terminal. Our train skirts along the shores of San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, the Straits of Carquinez, and Suisun Bay until Martinez is reached. On the right we have passed the Contra Costa spur of the Coast Range Mountains, on the rolling ground of the foot-hills of which are some of the finest grain fields and pasturage in the State. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 1 63 SAN PABLO T'^^^ ^^ ^ ^^^^^ agricultural district and about opposite the lower end of San Pablo Bay. PINOLE Here is located the plant of the California Powder Works. More powder and explo- sives are manufactured here than at any other place in the world. They have a branch at Santa Cruz, where the smokeless powder is made. RODEO '^ soon reached. A ferry similar to that of Port Costa, Benicia, is soon to be operated from here to Yallejo, which, with Mare Island, is to be seen on the opposite shore of Carquinez Strait. VALLEJO JUNCTION ^^^^ passengers for Vallejo. Mare Island, Napa, St. Hel- ena, Calistoga, and Santa Rosa take the ferry-boat across the Carquinez Straits to South Vallejo, where cars are in waiting. The boat continues on up to North Vallejo, where another ferry is taken for Mare Island. This line is described elsewhere. Here are located the Selby Smelting and Lead Works, where $250,000 in gold bullion was stolen recently. CROCKETT ^^^^ '^ where the vast quantities of wheat from the San Joaquin Valley are stored and shipped. Since 1898 the growing of the sugar beet has developed to large proportions. The town is perched up on the hillside. PORT COSTA Here passengers for Benicia, Suisun, Sacramento, and all points north and east are ferried across the Straits of Carquinez on the Solano, the largest ferry-boat in the world. Port Costa, like Crockett, is a great grain-shipping port, with warehouses holding 135,000 tons of grain. This town also is perched upon a hillside. On the opposite shore can be seen a tower of the " Bay Counties Power Co.," 164 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE from which cables 300 feet above water are stretched, carrying the electricity from the mountains to points about the bay. Another tower is on this side — this span is 4,730 feet long. MARTINEZ ^^^ county seat of Contra Costa County, with a population of 1,380 (1900), is a pretty little town snugly nestled at the foot-hills. Many vessels when out of service anchor off shore, benefiting by the fresh waters of the rivers. The bay shore is now left, a turn to right taking us into'the San Joaquin Valley. Trains are taken here for points in the San Ramon Valley. ANTIOCH "^^'^ ^^^ confluence of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, is soon reached. (See also page 170.) Brentwood comes next, and we are now entering the broad wheat and grain fields of the valley. Mt. Diablo looms up off to the right Coal of good quality is brought from the several mines in the range and shipped at this point. MOUNT DIABLO (Mount of the Devil) received its name in 1806, when a military expedition from the Presidio at San Francisco encoun- tered and engaged an Indian tribe, called the "Bolgo- nea," at the western base of the mount. A hot engage- ment followed, when an unknown personage bedecked in plumage suddenly appeared. The victory was com- plete for the Indians. The spirit (Pay) was afterwards learned to make daily descents from the mount. The tribe was finally subdued in a second campaign that year under Lieut. Gabriel Morega. There is a hotel about two miles from the summit. Coal of a good quality is found in large quantities throughout the many spurs and valleys surrounding Mt. Diablo. Owing to its promi- nence, the mountain is used as a basis of govern- ment surveys covering nearly half the State. Its highest TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 165 peak is 3,848 feet high, while the north peak is only 3,565 feet. The view from the summit is indescribable. BYRON -^bout two and one-half miles from the sta- tion are located the celebrated Byron Hot Springs, consisting of hot salt, sulphur, and mud baths, curing rheumatism, dyspepsia, Bright's disease, etc., etc. The baths are open the year round, those of the mud being extremely beneficial. Another view of Mt. Diablo can now be had, both peaks being visible. Tracy is next reached (145), then Lathrop, and on to Stock- ton, as is described elsewhere (146). =^ J' VALLEJO AND CALISTOGA VIA Vallejo Junction, wA, , c; JO Upon taking the ferry-boat at the junc- tion, Carquinez Straits are crossed and the mouth of Napa River entered, passing the south end of Mare Island, viewing the powder magazines. The train for Napa Valley is taken at the landing (south Vallejo), but if you desire to visit the Navy Yard or Vallejo, remain on the boat as it proceeds on up to Vallejo. Here another ferry is taken for the yard. Vallejo is a picturesque city of 7,965 inhabitants (1900), situated on a series of small hills on the left side of the mouth of Napa River, and opposite the U. S. Navy Yard at Mare Island, on which many of its citizens are em- ployed. There are numerous pretty little homes to be seen here, and considerable business enterprise. White Sulphur Springs are located about three miles out. Vallejo is named after Gen. M. G. Vallejo, who figured so prominently with the early history of the State. The State Capitol was located here on Jan. 5, 1852, moved to l66 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Sacramento, returned to Vallejo, thence removed to Benicia, Feb. ii, 1853, ^^^ again transferred to Sacra- mento, where it has been ever since. MARE ISLAND is located on Mare Island, opposite NAVY YARD Vallejo, at the mouth of Napa River. It has excellent harbor facilities, with a deep and wide channel of fresh water, which destroys the teredo and barnacle. It was established here in 1854, having been bought by the government in 1853 for $83,000. Here are located the machine, repair, and over- hauling shops of the Navy Department, as well as a fine large stone dry dock, and another larger one building. At the extreme south end of the island are located the powder magazines. The officers' quarters occupy a se- cluded and shaded park back from the landing, past the Naval Curiosity Park. Along the concrete bulkhead, at most any time, can be seen half a dozen or so war ships undergoing repairs, etc, A visitors' permit has to be obtained upon landmg, of the sentry on duty; otherwise you will not be allowed the freedom of the island. Fare, 20 cents round trip. Numerous trips are made on all work days and three on Sundays. NAPA JUNCTION Here branches diverge one to the right for Sacramento via Suisun, and one to the left for Santa Rosa, traversing the Sonoma Valley and paralleling the California Northwestern line as far as Glen Ellen. At this point the fertility and productiveness of Napa Valley can be seen. NAPA VALLEY like the adjoining valley of Sonoma, is one of the most productive for its size in the State, being forty miles long and averaging from two to five miles wide. Napa River, extending its entire length, is navigable to Napa City, a distance of TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 167 seventeen and a half miles, and rises five feet with each tide at this place. Grapes are raised in great abundance on the foot-hills, and through the valleys fruits of all kinds, no irrigation being needed. Previous to the settlement of the whites, it was a stock-raising country, hides and tallow being the chief article of trade. The climate throughout is exceptionally healthy and equita- ble. There are a great number of health and pleasure resorts all over the valley. NAPA ^^^^ county seat, is at the head of navigation on Napa River, forty-seven miles from San Fran- cisco and forty-six miles by rail, with a population of 4,036 (1900). It was settled as early as 1848, evidence being seen between Third and Brown street and the river. Many manufacturing industries are located here, being aided by rail and water facilities. Has fine edu- cational institutions, three newspapers, and three banks. The business blocks and section present a healthy con- dition. A new library building, presented by Mr. Good- man, has just been completed. The principal hotels are the "Palace" and "Napa." State Insane Asylum is located about one mile south. It was established in 1872, at a cost of $1,500, 000. Napa Soda Springs, a favorite summer resort, is seven miles out of the city, snugly nestled in the Coast Range overlooking the valley. It is open the year round. Its waters are world renowned, large quantities being bottled and shipped annually. Convey- ances for these places can be had at the Palace Stables, near the depot; F. S. Parker, proprietor. A trip by water by steamer " Zinfandel " affords a pleasant sail up San Francisco and San Pablo Bays, and on up Napa River, passing Vallejo and Navy Yard. Time, four hours; distance, 47 miles; fare, $1.00, in- cluding berth. Take boat Pier No. 3. 1 68 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE YOUNTVILLE ^^ next reached. Here are located the several buildings of the National Soldiers' Home. The town was named after Geo. C. Yount, a trapper, who came to California via Ft. Yuma, in 1827. He was the first white settler in the valley (February, 1831). Here are to be seen orchards and vineyards reaching clear across the valley, producing rich and luxuriant fruits and grapes, such as only can be found in this valley. c-p HELENA a pretty little town of 1,582 inhabitants (1900), is the center of a vineyard sec- tion of the valley. Very extensive wineries are located all about. It is a place of beautiful homes and summer resorts. The principal hotels are "Windsor" and "Grand." There are many charming and picturesque drives out of St. Helena, up and down the floor of the valley; to the sanitarium; the caves beyond; and on up Howell Mountain, and through many of the numerous vineyards. Stages are taken for Howell Mountain, Aetna Springs, and the St. Helena Sanitarium. [There are over two hundred varieties of grapes grown in this State, and it has been said, " California has been pictured as the vine- yard of the world." It is but to travel through these valleys of Napa and Sonoma to verify this statement. The grape is not grown here as in other parts of the world, it being pruned down to about three feet, and is in itself its own support, great clusters of the wine producer growing in quantities, fairly burdening the vine. California produces more than sixty per cent of all the wanes produced in the United States.] MOUNT ST. HELENA We are now approaching the head of the valley, with the grand old mountain directly ahead, standing sentinel like over the valley and mountain ranges. It rises 4,343 feet, and is supposed to be an extinct volcano. There are in reality three peaks, the most northern being the highest. A good trail leads to the top, and, though it is a fatiguing trip, it is well worth the exertion. A grand view of the TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 1 69 Sacramento Valley and the high Sierras is to be seen to the east, San Francisco Bay and intervening country to the south, while to the north lies Clear Lake, and to the west, beyond the Coast Range, is the boundless Pacific. Calistoga is about ten miles from the summit, and only five from the base. The old Silverado mine is located on the southeast slope (see R. L. Stevenson's "Silverado Squatters"). CALISTOGA ^^ ^^^^ *^^^*^ °^ ^^^ valley, is the ter- minus of the railroad. It was founded in 1859 by Samuel Brannan, an early Mormon settler. Upon crossing over the southeast slope of Mount St. Helena, Lake County is entered, a region famous for its many summer resorts and mineral springs. " Hotel Calistoga" is the leading hotel. Stages for Middletown, Harbin, Anderson, Howard and Siegler Springs, Lower Lake, Glenbrook, Kelsey- ville, Lakeport, and Adams Springs. p___.p.__ FOREST ^bout five and a half miles from Calistoga, I'ia county road, towards Santa Rosa, is located a forest of petrified trees, partially uncovered, of the lava supposed to have been erupted by Mount St. Helena. The trees all lie with their tops from the mount, and in most instances lie in pairs, side by side, some redwood, and other pairs of sugar pine and redwood. There are many interesting features to be seen, — the "Father of the Forest," which measures fifteen feet in diameter, and the "Mother of the Forest." At the "chip pile" specimens of about a dozen different petrified trees can be seen, while at the "wood pile " are large blocks and logs. The impression of Goliath's last footprint is to be seen in this forest. The forest covers about 300 acres. The drive up to the forest and over the divide is one of ever-changing scenery. It can also be reached from Santa Rosa. Entrance to forest, 50 cents. lyo SOUVENIR AND GUIDE STOCKTON VIA THE Santa Fe. This affords one a pleasurable seven-mile sail of forty minutes up the bay to Point Richmond, where the train is taken, which in turn conveys you through a rich farming district, situated throughout in a hilly and pic- turesque section. Upon emerging from the fifth tunnel you at once strike the head of the famous San Joaquin Valley, and upon following the river of the same name you enter the Reclamation Lands, where hundreds of thousands of acres of land have been converted from their swampy condition into rich and profitable farms, where hay, grain, and vegetable products are produced in vast quantities. Stockton is entered from the west, the depot being on the south side of the city. This is the shortest and quickest route from San Francisco, being only seventy-eight miles, and covered in two and three-fourths hours. Fare, first class, $2.50, and second class, $1.50. After leaving the line of the Sea-Wall (91), with its forests of masts, and passing through a labyrinth of ship- ping, the Golden Gate (50), in the far distance, is caught a glimpse of; Alcatraz Island (14) is soon passed, while off to the right is Goat Island (50), and the distant shores of Oakland (117) and Berkeley (123); the shore line follows on up to Point Richmond, our landing. You are now passing Angel Island (15) and Raccoon Straits (86). Distant views of Belvedere (153) and Sausalito (172) are to be had through the Straits. Red Rock and the approach to San Pablo Bay lie directly ahead, while off' to the left, looming up in all its majestic form, is old Mt. Tamalpais (74)- POINT RICHMOND ^^ "^^ reached. Here is the western terminus of the Santa Fe System. Excellent fishing is to be had off" the bluffs TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. I7I and wharves. The Standard Oil Company is about to erect here the third largest oil refining plant in the United States. Fare, 45 cents; time, 40 minutes; dis- tance, 7 miles. After leaving the Point and emerging from the tunnel, the town of Richmond is reached. It is a busy and growing settlement on tiie east side of the Point, while just beyond are the EAST YARDS ^"other newly-made town. Here are located the shops and freight yards of the railroad. SAN PABLO ^ quaint old Spanish-Mexican settle- ment (163), and Pinole (163) are soon passed, as is also Luzon, and we find ourselves in a rich farming district situated throughout the hilly lands. FERNANDEZ -^^^^ passing this point the Franklin Tunnel, 5,600 feet long, is entered. MUIR Upon emerging from the fifth and last tunnel, this point is reached, and the town of Martinez (164), one mile distant, can be seen. We are now cross- ing the richly cultivated Alhambra Valley, known the world over for its excellent fruits and grapes. BAY POINT ^^^^^ leaving the hills the broad valley lands at the head of the San Joaquin Valley are entered. Mt. Diablo (164) has in the mean- time come into view off to the right. The tracks of the Southern Pacific are paralleled here for a considerable distance, as is also the San Joaquin River. The Sacra- mento River enters Suisun Bay at the wooded point about opposite where the Southern Pacific tracks are crossed. ANTIOCH This quaint old town played an important part during the gold excitement in the early days. It is situated on the bank of the San Joaquin 172 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE River near its confluence with the Sacramento, and is a large coal (from Mt. Diablo coal fields) and grain ship- ping point. Launches connect with Rio Vista and CoUinsville on the Sacramento River. Fare, 75 cents; round trip, |i.oo. (See also page 163.) KNIGHTSEN ^^ ^^^ now entering the famous " tule or swamp lands," where hundreds of thousands of acres have been converted into rich and profitable farming lands. Fabulous crops of wheat, grain, etc., etc., as well as potatoes and other garden truck, are marketed from these reclaimed lands. Old and Middle Rivers are soon crossed, and the thriving manufacturing city of Stockton reached (for description of which see page 169). NORTH SHORE RAILROAD. This line affords one a splendid opportunity of not only a delightful sail across the bay (see below) but makes connection with the mountain-climbing road up Mt. Tamalpais' rugged and forest-covered slopes; takes one through a delightfully suburban and camping sec- tion, and on up through the richest dairying section in the State, to the center of the magnificent and stately grove of redwoods at the Russian River, while just beyond is Cazadero, the present end of the road. Distance, 86^ miles from San Francisco; time, 5^4 hours; fare, I2.50. The company is shortly to convert that section, between Sausalito and San Rafael, into a Broad Gauge electric system, leaving all north of that point as it is for the present. SAUSALITO (small elder grove). Across the bay on the Marin County shore, built on a gentle slope of wooded foot-hills, is the beautiful town of Sausa- TO CKNIKAl. CALIFORNIA. 173 Hto, with its population of 1,628 (1900). Upon taking one of the beautifully-appointed ferry-boats of the North Shore Railroad Company at the Union Depot, foot of Market street, you obtain an ever-pleasant trip across the bay. Passing along the City Front (34), Alcatraz Island (14), crossing the channel, past the Golden Gate (50), and leaving Angel Island (15), Raccoon Straits (86), Tiburon (152) and Belvedere (152) to the right, we reach Sausalito, with Richardson's Bay (87) to the north, be- yond which is Mt. Tamalpais (74)- Numerous vessels and yachts are always at anchor in the offing. Lime Point (65) and Fort Baker can be reached by following the road to the left around the bay, and Point Bonita (80), distant about five miles, by the road directly up and back of the town. Sausalito was first settled by Wm. A. Richardson, an Englishman, in 1822. Fare, 25 cents, round trip; distance, 6 miles; time, 30 minutes. wAi I PY This charming and picturesquely- MILL VALLtY ^.^^^^^^^ ^p^^^ g^ygly nestled at the base of Mt. Tamalpais, is a favorite summer camping ground, and the home of many of the city's merchants. Wild flowers, and ferns in endless variety, are found in great profusion. Many beautiful roads and trails enable one to wander off and enjoy the quiet of virgin forests and recesses. There are many stately groves of red- woods here in this valley. Here the train is taken for the top of Mt. Tamalpais (74). Do not let this opportunity pass, as it is the most pleasant and awe-inspiring mountain trip in America. LARKSPUR AND are two pretty little spots at the TAMALPAIS eastern base of Mt. Tamalpais, and ideal camping grounds, being easy of access and only a few minutes' ride from the bustle of the metropolis. 174 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE ROSS VALLEY ^^^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^ seen some of the prettiest of suburban homes, and, like Mill Valley, being similarly situated, only on the north- ern flank of Tamalpais, is charmingly and picturesquely located. Roads lead to the summit of Tamalpais, eight miles; on past Lake Lagunitas to Bolinas Ridge, eight miles; and on down to bay of the same name, at foot of the ridge. Either of these trips makes nice cross-country jaunts. SAN ANSELMO ^^^^ ^^^ located the several build- ings of the Presbyterian Theological Seminary on a knoll off to the left. Here the main line is left and a sudden turn to the left is taken for San Rafael and San Quentin. SAN RAFAEL (^55) ^^ "°^ reached, and a ride to the end of the road (lo minutes) brings you to SAN OUENTIN Here are located the buildings of the State Prison, on Point San Quentin, in the upper San Francisco Bay. Here are quartered the State's temporary and permanent guests, carefully housed behind brick walls. SACRAMENTO BY BOAT. Take steamer from pier south of Ferry Depot every day at i p. m., except Sunday. Fare, $1.50. Meals and berth, 50 cents each. Dis- tance, 125 miles. Time, about 12 hours. The first half of this trip is described on page 175, Vallejo by Boat. The Straits of Carquinez are soon passed through,' and Suisun Bay entered, wherein are emptied the muddy waters of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers, the last named of which we follow in its circuit- ous course until the State capital is reached, 6o^ miles from its mouth. This section of the State, the delta of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, is as rich as any in the world, and comprises a series of reclaimed islands, on which vast crops of alfalfa, garden truck, T(J CENTRAL CAl.l I'( )kN I A . T75 cereals, and fruits of all kinds are produced. During the season the banks of this river are literally packed with fruits and produce. Sherman Island (16,000 acres), which we first pass on the right, and Grand Island (17,000 acres), further up on the opposite side, are under a high state of cultivation. Vast sums of money are spent annually for the preservation of the levees, which often break and cause a complete inundation. At the time of the gold discovery this river was navi- gable to deep-sea-going vessels as far up as Sacramento, but, owing to the debris from the mines, it has greatly shallowed. This trip, while tedious, is delightful on a moonlight night. On the return, Sacramento is left at 10 a. m., thereby enabling you to see the river by daylight. STOCKTON BY BOAT* Take steamer from Piers Nos. i and 3 daily (except Sunday), 6 P. m. Fare, 50 cents each way. Meals and berth, 50 cents each. Distance, 92 miles. Time, about 12 hours. The first half of this trip is described below, under Vallejo by Boat. After passing through the Straits of Carquinez and Suisun Bay, the narrow mouth of the San Joaquin River is entered at Black Diamond, and Antioch (164) soon reached. The tracks 01 the Santa Fe follow the banks. The river has now widened, and you are now in one of the richest delta lands in the world. These islands, or reclaimed lands, are all under a high state of cultivation, and produce fabulous crops of wheat, grain, and garden truck. It is a very pretty sight to watch the burning "tules" on a moonlight night as the boat winds its way in and out on its way to Stockton, which is 38 miles from where the river enters Suisun Bay. VALLEJO BY BOAT. Take steamers General Frisbie or Mo?iticello, from Pier No. 2, just south of Union Ferry Depot. Immediately upon leaving the dock the several slips of the Union Ferry Depot (45) are passed, and a labyrinth of shipping dodged through. The City Front (34) and Sea-Wall (91), with Telegraph Hill (96) looming up in the background, are passed and the hilly nature of San Francisco is seen outlined against the western sky. Ft. Mason (47), Presidio (84), Ft. Scott (48), Golden Gate (50), Lime Point (65), and Pt. Bonita (80), are passed in quick succession with the incoming 176 SOUVENIR AND GUIDE shipping in the clearway. Blossom Rock buoy (40) and Alcatraz Island (14) are now passed, and Sausalito (171) and Mt. Tamalpais (74), with its mountain-climbing railroad, form a picturesque background. Angel Island (15), with its government camp of detention and the Quarantine Station (86), on Raccoon Straits (86), come next. Ofttimes the muddy waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers are encountered as far down as this. Point Richmond (169), the Santa Fe's terminal, is now off to our right, and San Quentin (173) and San Rafael (154) are off to the left in the distance. Red Rock, standing sentinel- like to the upper bays, is now passed, and San Pablo Bay soon entered, passing to the right of the Two Brothers Islands. Two other islands. The Sisters, are seen just beyond, while upon looking back the Marin Islands are discernable. We are now well into San Pablo Bay, and upon rounding Point Pinole, the powder works plant is to be seen (162). On the opposite side of the bay is the mouth of Petaluma River (155). Rodeo (162) with its oil-refining plant and huge tanks, is next on the right, and Selby (162), with its smelting works, next. This brings us opposite the mouth of Napa River, up which we now sail, passing the Navy Yard (165) on the left and landing at Vallejo (164), where a ferry- boat conveys us to Mare Island. If the morning trip (9:45) is taken from the city, the afternoon can be spent advantageously here and in Vallejo and the 6 p. m. boat returned on. Two round trips are made on week days, leaving at 9:45 A. M. and 3:15 p. M. Fare, round trip, $1.00. Distance, 60 miles. Time, 2 hours each way. Meals are served on board. On Sunday but one round trip is made, leaving 9:45 A. m., and leaving for return at 4:15 p. m. Fare, 75 cents round trip. This is one of the most delightful and ever-pleasing sails on the bay and should not be missed. *' WISHBONE TRIP/* This affords one a delightful day's outing, traversing the fertile lands on both sides of San Francisco Bay and the beautiful orchard and garden spot of California, — the Santa Clara Valley (127). San Francisco is left at 8:30 a. m., by ferry to Oakland. Hay wards (144) and Niles (144) are passed en route to San Jose {128), where a stop of two hours is made and a drive in the valley enjoyed. The train is again taken and proceeds to Los Gatos (138), where another stop is made and a sumptuous repast enjoyed at Hotel Lyndon. Leaving here at 3 o'clock, San Jose is passed, en route to Palo Alto (126), where a stop of two hours is made, enabling you to see the Leland Stanford Jr. University. San Francisco is reached at 7:30 p. m TO CENTKAI. CALIFORNIA. 177 rime, seven liours; distaiue, 115 miles; fare, I3.75, iiuIiuMiij^ bus ride, meal, ami Ims at Palo Alto. Trip is made every Tuesday and Saturday during the season. '*ALL DAY FOR A DOLLAR'* EXCURSION. This one day side trip affords an excellent opportunity for seeing the "cross bay country," taking in Oakland (117), Berkeley (122), Alameda (121), San Leandro (121), and Haywards (144). Take 9 A. m. creek route boat (119) to Oakland. Oakland passengers take the electric car foot of Broadway 9:40 a. m., thence through Oakland to Berkeley, where twenty minutes are allowed for visiting the building and grounds of the University of California. Piedmont Heights and Park are next visited and return made to Oakland where a sumptuous meal is provided at the Hotel Metropole. At 1:30 p. m. the car (electric) is taken for Haywards, passing through a picturesque suburban district. Return is now made, reaching Broadway at 5 p. M. and San Francisco via train and ferry fifty minutes later. This trip is operated by the Oakland Board of Trade, a representa- tive being on each car, and leaves twice a week, Monday and Friday. Fare Ji.oo, including meal. Tickets for sale at S. P. ticket office, 613 Market Street, or at Ferry. SIDE TRIP EXCURSIONS* In making up any of the short excursions out of San Francisco, it would be well to consult the ticket agent of the selected line, relative to time-tables, etc., as the schedules vary according to the different seasons of the year, therefore a simple outline will be attempted. Generally speaking, an early morning train can be taken out of the city, and stops permitted along the line. A later afternoon train is then taken and trip continued. Trip No. i. — Palo Alto, San Jose, Mt. Hamilton, Monterey, and Pacific Grove, returning via Santa Cruz, Big Trees, and San Jose. This trip can be made in about four days, but can be extended so as to occupy a whole week advantageously. Train, Third and Townsend Streets, Coast Division. Trip No. 2.— San Jose, Big Trees, and Santa Cruz, returning via Broad Gauge, through Gilroy. Upon stopping off at Big Trees, a later 17^ SOUVENIR AND GUIDE afternoon train can be taken for Santa Cruz, or by special arrange- ment, a conveyance can be secured (see page 143), and a delightful mountain drive enjoyed. Union Depot, Narrow Gauge boat. Trip No. 3.— San Jose via Newark, via Narrow Gauge route, re- turning z/^a Broad Gauge, past Palo Alto, etc. Union Depot, Narrow Gauge boat. Trip No. 4.— San Jose via Niles,z/m Broad Gauge, returning as on Trip No. 3. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. 5. — San Jose by steamer z/za Alviso, returning same way or by rail. Steamer from Bulkhead between Jackson and Washington Streets. Trip No. 6. — Stockton via Niles, Livermore, and Lathrop, return- ing via Martinez, etc. Union Depot, Narrow Gauge boat. Trip No. 7. — Stockton via Martinez, Byron, and Lathrop, return- ing via Niles, etc. Union Depot, Broad Gauge. Trip No. 8.— Stockton via Point Richmond (the Santa Fe route), returning same way or by Sacramento, Martinez, or Niles. Union Depot, Santa Fe ferry-boat. Trip No. 9.— Stockton by steamer, returning by boat, or as Trip 8. Take boat at Pier No. i or 3. Trip No. 10. — Sacramento via Port Costa and Benicia, returning same way, or via Stockton. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. ii. — Sacramento via Martinez and Stockton, returning as in Trip No. 10. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. 12. — Sacramento via Niles and Stockton, returning as in Trip 10. Union Depot, Narrow Gauge boat. Trip No. 13. — Sacramento via steamer, returning same way or by rail. Steamer from wharf, south of Union Depot. Trip No. 14.— Mare Island and Vallejo, via Vallejo Junction, returning by water, as in Trip No. 15. Union Depot, Broad Gauge. Trip No. 15.— Mare Island and Vallejo by steamer, returning by rail via Vallejo Junction, as in Trip No. 14. Steamer Monticello and General Frisbie, Pier No. 2. Steamer Herald from wharf south of Union Depot. Steamer Sunol, Pier No. 3. Trip No. 16. — Napa, St. Helena, or Calistoga via Vallejo Junction, returning same way. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. 17. — Napa by steamer past Vallejo and Mare Island, returning same way, or by rail. Steamer from Pier No. 3. TO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA. 179 Trip No. iS.— San Rafael via Tibuion. returning via Sausalito. Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. ferry-boat. Trip No. 19.— San Rafael via Sausalito, returning via Til)uron. Union Depot, North Shore ferry-boat. Trip No. 20.— Sonoma and Glen Ellen via Tiburon and Ignacio, returning via Napa and Vallejo Junction. Union Depot, C. X. W. Ry. ferry-boat. Trip No. 21.— Glen Ellen and Santa Rosa via Vallejo and Napa Junction, returning via Petaluma and Tiburon. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. 22.— Santa Rosa via Tiburon and Petaluma, returning as in Trip No 21. Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. ferry-boat. Trip No. 23.— Petaluma via Tiburon, returning via steamer, as in Trip No. 24. Trip No. 24.— Petaluma via steamer, returning via Tiburon. Steamer from Bulkhead and Washington Street wharf. Trip No. 25.— Guerneville (Redwoods) via Tiburon and Fulton. Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. ferry 1 oat. Trip No. 26.— The Geysers via Tiburon and Cloverdale. Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. ferry-boat. Trip No. 27.— Lake County springs and summer resorts via Tiburon, with stage connections at Hopland and Ukiah. Trip No. 28.— Ukiah and Willets via Tiburon. Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. ferry-boat. Trip No. 29. — Duncan's Mills, Cazadero, and all points of N. S. Ry. via Sausalito. Union Depot, N. S. Ry, ferry-boat. Trip No. 30.— Oakland via ferry-boat from Union Depot, either by Broad or Narrow Gauge boats, or via Creek Route Trip No. 31.— Alameda via ferry-boat from Union Depot, either Broad or Narrow Gauge boats. Trip No. 32. — Berkeley via ferry-boat from Union Depot, or by electric cars from Cakland. Trip No. 53. — Tiburon via ferry-boat from Union Depot, C. N. W. Ry. Trip No. 34. — Sausalito via ferry-boat from Union Depot, N. S. Ry. Co. l8o SOUVENIR AND GUIDE Trip No. 35. — Mt. Tamalpais via Sausalito and Mill Valley. Union Depot, N. S. Ry. Co. ferry-boat. Trip No. 36.— Petrified Forest via Vallejo Junction and Calistoga. Union Depot, Broad Gauge boat. Trip No. 37. — Around the bay, islands, and military points per steamer McDowell; leaves pier No. i, Clay Street wharf. (See page 13.) Trip No. 38. — " Wishbone " trip (see page 175). Trip No. 39. — "All Day for a Dollar " excursion (see page 176 lornooTB lANI 3HOHq3J3T lifiJI ,9siT bsi3vibQ ebooD 3Hi ni .3niJ gmG eazAT8 ewavi aviA gaHOTa^ioou , Id lOJ' .19 J .obiSioO Ki.Vl OS .980l'J .H .O jioBid atSI l9i ,niiiM .3 TIE .BsauL A .O .;^9iJ2 asbiid .bn^Jg aw^Vl soillojeo'I - .811 jloBid .lei . Ja nisi/. i£I .xiniujp) .1 .L " Md I08I .I9J' .nibM .a 31* .9woja '.«[ .3 SaHOH'JHO >' (ibB 100 ,.9V£ Tsnii/. .JiiiLorijsM IinJn90 jioBid 0g8L .J9J ,niupBnT, ladeW ,Il£ri e'yK.L ,93netD8 nx-' .38 isJJua -isen ,.r. / . illUpBOL flJSS ,l8ibori39i/. J99l3fc--it;!' > .^bI'J .103 ,.Ja -lariiM bna ob^ioQ 13 .io» .Ijsqooeiqa ' .97J5 bxua .eva leniM .loo ,n£'i9riJuJ liailgna .Js &UBlfeinBJ8 ao'i^nijjioO .8 SSS .JeiboriJsM las^nsda .e.j\t^^' llB-l ,l9qi:f)J fljiowqa Jb yB«bnU .too .i93ituH jaijqjsU jBii'5 jiusM .a Oi-G ,-^39ioGc: JBuJinqfe Jaii^ .'9d ..av£ isfnJVi ,lBnoiJiia9ian*-*^' 38-il'tI .niupBoU nBc biiB i9^JJd -iBsa .iiiiJp.BoL hbS ,aBii93xd39i*l .Bli9lxd39i*i bn^li9dmuL» Jaiil .eJa miisii4 fans ni.»;iv. .IIjsH T99noi*i .nsiiBJinU jeti'5 .noiaaiM aagniri'j nBi-iyj Corner Poplar and El Dorado. .1 Corner Lindsay and California.' l. C°"'«'' Main and Hunter. 24 CornerMaln and Sutter.' „5 corner Weber Ave. and Edison.' ^6 Union Warehouse.' 27 Corner Main an. I Comer Washington and Monroe. 29 Corner Washington and Lincoln. il Corner Lindsay and El Dorado. i: J;"''"'"" Poplar and Madison.' 34 Corner Park and Harris 36 Corner Vine and Bl Dorado. 3b Corner Magnolia and Commerce. j[ Corner Oak and Harrison.' oS Corner Poplar and riji^on 39 Corner Magnolia and El Dorado ' 41 Corner Market and El Dorado. 42 Corner Market and Canter. 43 Corner Washington and Hunter. 4S Corner Lafayette and Center, jb i,orner Sonora and Comr 47 Corner Jefferson and Center. aI .?'■"?'" ^°""> and Center. 49 At the Stockton Woolen Mills -i >;<"'"<''' Market and American. M Corner Main and Stanisl 53 Corner Main and Ophlr. 54 Corner Main and East. j.6 Corner Sonora and Ophlr ro I;"''"'^'" Hazelton Ave. an ro X'"''""' Hazelton Avenue and East. f Corner South and Pilgrim. 61 Corner Washington and California. ., S°™?'' Church and California. 63 Cor. Hazelton Ave. and San Joaqui: 64 Corner Sonora and Hunter 65 Corner Jackson and San Joaquin.' 67 Corner Jefferson and Stanislaus.' 71 Corner Channel and California. .2 Corner Lindsay and San Joaquin 73 Corner Poplar and Sutter.' 74 Corner Park and Sutter. 75 Corner Magnolia and California, 76 Corner Rose and Hunter. SI Comer Lindsay and Stanislaus 82 Corner Miner Avenue a ■ Oak and Grant • Oak and Pilgrim,' ■ Channel and Pilgrim.' innel and San Joaqi . Female Depa Stat, ^ St. Joseph' Walnut, tel. Wigfcen HoTtiLS. Commercial Main tel. 301 green. Columbia. San Joaquin, tel. nil black. Eagle. 419 E. Weber gy:??^',;?!-, Channel and El Dorado. Central. Channel, cor. calf California. Channel, tel. 1041 black. fornla ^.. nperlal, .Main and Aurora tel 203 r Main and Center, te 1212 red. Sherman. _ _ United States, ket. tel. 1571 Western. 137 S. Center. Yosemlte. Main St.. bet. San Joaquin LIVERT STABLES. 540 E. Weber ave Center, nr Market, tel. 119 mn. S32 N. Hunter, tel. 774 bk. "■ 29 S. San Joaquin, Ford Goldi Higglnboth tel. 321 gr nd Aurora. •„„'?L^^Hunter. tel. 1101 blk. i.(l9-s25 E. Market, tel, 117 mn. ,, . tel. 134 main. w"°l' ^lo"-l^ F- Market, tel. 487 black. tel. 31 green, ■v'^.'^l.;^*..'"^..!';- .*"**"^*='' ''^'- 3« black. Yosemlte. Weber ave.. nr San Joa- quin, tel. 431 brown. ,^ MILr..S (I.umbcrl ?";"»',f ^"*"' '"'"" and Commerce. R. K VVllson. .Vialn and Lincoln. "ne '^'"""« ■'^""' Sutter and Lalay- MILLS (Flour). Weber ave. and Au nd Commerce. r. Weber Sperry. Mafteson & "Wlllla Main and Aun Miller Carriage Factory. and Channel. Henderson & Son Salbach Carriage Factory. St.. near Sutter. C. Shaw Plow Works. El Dorado . cor Webi and Golden ind .Madison cor. Weber ave. and Madison, MILLS (Woolen). I'i;^, S'?£|. Parker Cullege. Masonic Temple. St. Agnes' Academy, cor. San Joa- quln nnii Taylor. St. JWary's Collegt, cor. San JoaQUin El Dorado and LLUS^ PREE. 1 .60. ALL ROADS LEAD TO MOlOEN'S ;iiid Ua . Jo-'^epl Stockton Buflin Sutter and Market. STEAMER LANDINGS. C. N. and I. Co.. Weber ado, tel. 33 main. TELEGRAPH AND TELEPHONE. Pacific Postal Telegraph Co., 17 N Hunter, tel. 101 mfl t: C. p. Heininger & Co. Manufacturen and Importers of Fancy Articles of NATIVE WOODS and SHELLS SOUVENIQ GOODS Albums of views of San Francisco and all points on the Pacific Coast Pepairin^ Neatly Done Pipes and Smokers* Articles Walking Canes in Native Woods 535 Market St.,San Francisco Opposite Sansome St ESTABLISHED 1876 LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS III 017 137 957 A\AR:»n 5> S I c N O F T H E C O D S Japanese Fii^e f\rt 214 POST STREET {Formerly under the Palace Hotel) {See Map) San Francisco, C