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33d Congress, ) [SENATE.] (Executive 
 
 1st Session. \ } Doc. 
 
 IN THE YEAR 18 52: 
 
 RANDOLPH B. MARCY, 
 
 iAPTAIN FIFTH INFANTRY UNITED STATES ARMY; 
 
 ASSISTED BY 
 GEORGE B.'McCLELLAN, 
 
 BREVET CAPTAIN U. S. ENGINEERS. 
 
 WITH REPORTS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY, ANB 
 NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 X 
 
 WASHINGTON-:- 
 BEVERLEY TUCKER, SENATE PRINTER. 
 
 1854. 
 
I 
 
 REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 
 
 COMMUNICATING, 
 
 IN COMPLIANCE WITH A RESOLUTION OP THE SENATE, CAPTAIN MARCY'S REPORT 
 OP HIS EXPLORATION OP THE RED RIVER. 
 
 War Department, Washington, November 8, 1853. 
 Sir : In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 4th of February, 
 1853, I have the honor to transmit herewith, for the use of the Senate, a copy 
 of the report of Captain R. B. Marcy of his exploration of the waters of Red 
 river. 
 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 JEFF'N DAVIS, Secretary of War . 
 Asburt Dickins, Esq., Secretary of the Senate. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In submitting the following report of a reconnoissance of the 
 country bordering upon upper Red river, it is proper to state 
 that, previous to our departure upon the expedition, we were 
 unable to secure all the instruments adapted to the perform- 
 ance of such services as were required of us. We succeeded 
 in obtaining a sextant, a mountain barometer, an aneroid ba- 
 rometer, an odometer, a prismatic compass, and two Fahren- 
 heit thermometers ; but could not procure a chronometer, 
 and, in consequence, were under the necessity of making our 
 observations with a pocket lever watch. 
 
 The latitudes given are the results of from twelve to fifteen 
 observations of Polaris for the determination of each position. 
 The longitudes were determined by a series of observations 
 upon lunar distances, and are believed to be as accurate as 
 the imperfect character of our instruments would admit. 
 
 The positions thus deduced have been corrected by frequent 
 and careful observations of courses and distances with the 
 compass and odometer, a record of which will be found in 
 the appendix. 
 
 The astronomical observations were made by Captain 
 George B. McClellan, of the engineer corps, who, in addition, 
 to the duties properly pertaing to his department, performed 
 those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An 
 interesting collection of reptiles and other specimens, in alco- 
 hol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into 
 the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smithsonian 
 Institution, whose reports will be found in the appendix. For 
 these and many othe important services, as well as for his 
 prompt and efficient co-operation in whatever was necessary 
 
IV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe- 
 dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest ac- 
 knowledgment. 
 
 Doctor George G. Shumard, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who 
 faithfully discharged the duties of surgeon to the command, 
 also made important contributions to the department of natu- 
 ral science, by collections of specimens of the rocks, minerals, 
 soils, fossils, shells, and plants, of the different localities which 
 we traversed; and of these, the plants were placed in the 
 hands of Dr. John Torre} 7 ", of New York, theeminant botanist, 
 so well known to the army by his able reports on the collec- 
 tions of Fremont, Emory, and others. 
 
 The shells were intrusted to Professor C. B. Adams, of 
 Amherst. His report, as presented, possesses a melancholy 
 interest, as being almost the last scientific effort of this distin- 
 guished conchologist, whose loss science has so recently been 
 called upon to deplore. 
 
 The specimens of rocks and minerals have been examined 
 by President Hitchcock, of Amherst College, with important 
 results, while copious remarks on the general geology of the 
 country have been supplied by Dr. Shumard, who has also 
 furnished some notes on the conchology of the route. 
 
 The minerals and soils have been analysed by Professor 
 C. U. Shepard, who detected among them a new species. 
 Finally, in the hands of Dr. Benjamin F. Shumard, the fossils 
 have yielded several novelties to science. All these reports 
 upon the natural history of the expedition will be found de- 
 tsiled at length in the appendix. 
 
 The barometrical observations which are given were taken 
 from both forms of the instruments, and exnibited a remarka- 
 ble agreement until the 8th of June, when we had the mis- 
 fortune to break the mountain barometer, and were obliged 
 subsequently to depend solely upon the. aneroid. This I be- 
 lieve to be very reliable, as it has been tested. since our jeturn 
 by a careful comparison with several other instruments in 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 possession of Benjamin Pike & Son, New York, and found to 
 be in perfect order. 
 
 In order to obtain as intimate a knowledge as possible of 
 the country over which we passed, I was necessarily absent 
 from the train a great portion of the time while it was in mo- 
 tion; and during such periods the command devolved upon 
 Lieutenant UpdegrafF, which, with the constant guard I 
 deemed it necessary to keep over our animals in a country 
 where the Indians manifested a disposition by no means 
 friendly towards us, made his varied duties laborions, and it 
 gives me pleasure to bear testimony to the efficient manner 
 in which he performed them. 
 
 C. B. MARCY, 
 
 Captain 5th Infantry. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page. 
 Order from head-quarters of the army — Failure of former expeditions in 
 
 reaching the sources of Red River — Causes of failure — Departure from 
 
 Washington — Arrival at Fort Belknap — The Little Witchita — Big 
 
 Witchita — Departure from Cache creek — Copper ore — Indian signs ... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Witchita mountains — Panther killed — Buffalo tracks — Singular and un- 
 accountable rise of water — Buffalo signs — Horse captured — Rains — 
 Arrival at Otter creek — Barometer broke — Character of Witchita 
 mountains — Buffalo killed — High water. 11 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Witchitas — Discouraging accounts of the country in advance — Pass 
 100° of longitude — Leave Otter creek — Berries — Elk creek — Pass 
 Witchita mountains — Gypsum bluffs — Buffaloes seen — Suydam creek — 
 Comanche signs. 18 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Buffalo chase — Sweet Water creek — Comanche camps — Prevailing 
 winds — Indians seen — Method of encamping — Wonderful powers of 
 the Delawares — Beaver dams — Kioway creek 29 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Reach the source of the north branch of Red river — Bottle buried — 
 Arrived upon the Canadian — Departure for Middle fork — Indian battle 
 ground — Prairie-dog towns — Source of the Middle fork — South fork — 
 Prairie-dogs.. 40 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Arrive at the main South Fork— Panther killed — Bitter water — Intense 
 thirst — Head spring — Bears abundant — Departure down the river. .. . 53 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Antelope and Deer — Witchita Mountains in sight — Reach Buffalo 
 Creek — Valley of Otter Creek — Salubrity of Climate~Deer Bleat — 
 
Vlli TABLE OF CONTENTS, 
 
 Page. 
 
 Horse Flies — Scurvey — Witchita Mountains — Pass through the Mom 
 
 tains — Buffalo seen 67 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Old Indian villages — Beautiful scenery — Trap formation — Lost mule — 
 Beaver creek — Prairie guides — Rush creek — Witchita and Waco vil- 
 lages — Mexican prisoners — Talk with the Indians — Cross Timbers — 
 Kickapoos — Strike wagon track — Arrival at Fort Arbuckle 78 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Prominent features of the Red river — Chain of lakes — Cross-tim- 
 bers — Arable lands — Establishment of a military post upon Red river 
 recommended — Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing to Mexico 
 — Wagon-route from Fort Belknap to Santa Fe — Navigation of Red 
 river — Erroneous opinions in regard to Red river — Extensive gypsum 
 range — El Llano Estacado ....... 90 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Indians of the country — Habits of the Comanches and Kioways — Simi- 
 larity between them and the Arabs and Tartars — Predatory excursions 
 into Mexico — War Implements — Incredulity regarding the customs of 
 the Whites — Method of saluting strangers — Degraded condition of the 
 Women — Aversion to ardent spirits — Prairie Indians contrasted with 
 the Indians of the Eastern States — Buffaloes — Probable condition of the 
 Indians upon the extermination of the Buffaloes — Pernicious influence 
 of Traders — Superstitions of the natives 101 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Pacific railway — Impracticability of crossing the "Llano Estacado" — 
 Route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe — Return route from Dona Ana — 
 Its connections' with the Mississippi and Pacific 118 
 
 APPENDIX A. 
 Meteorological Observations 125 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 Tables of Courses and Distances 140 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 Mineralogy : 
 Report on the minerals collected. By Prof. C. U. Shepard 145 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 b-EOLOGT : 
 
 Notes upon the specimens of rocks and minerals collected. By Presi- 
 dent Edward Hitchcock 150 
 
 Remarks upon the general geology of the country traversed. By 
 
 George Shumard, M. D. 167 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 
 Palaeontology : 
 
 Description of the species of carboniferous and cretaceous fossils 
 collected. By B. F. Shumard, M. D 186 
 
 APPENDIX F. 
 
 Zoology : 
 
 Mammals. By R. B. Marcy, Captain U. S. A.. 200 
 
 Reptiles. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard 202 
 
 Fishes. By S. Baird and C. Girard... 233 
 
 Shells By C. B. Adams and G. G. Shumard, M. D 242 
 
 Orthopterous insects. By C. Girard 246 
 
 Arachnidians. By C. Girard 251 
 
 Myriapods. By C. Girard . . 262 
 
 APPENDIX G. 
 Botany : 
 
 Description of the plants collected during the expedition. By Dr. 
 
 John Torry 266 
 
 APPENDIX H. 
 
 Ethnology : 
 
 Vocabulary of the Comanches and Witchitas. By Captain R. B. 
 
 Marcy ; with some general remarks by Prof. W. W. Turner. ..... 297 
 
 Alphabetical Index 303 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LANDSCAPES. 
 
 Plate. Page. 
 
 I. Granite boulders. . ............. .. . . ...... ...... ........... . . 23 
 
 II. Mount Webster 22 
 
 III. Encampment of 6th of June. 27 
 
 IV. Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river. 24 
 
 V. Veiws of Gypsum Bluffs on Canadian river 42 
 
 VI. View near Gypsum Bluffs on Red river. 24 
 
 VII. Border of El Llano Estacado 54 
 
 VIII. View near head of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. ................... 62 
 
 IX. View near head of Red river. 62 
 
 X. Head of Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no, or the main branch of Red river . „ 64 
 
 XI. Trap mountain on Cache creek 79 
 
 XII. Witchita village on Rush creek. 63 
 
 GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS* 
 
 I. Section showing the order and succession of the strata from 
 
 Washington county, Arkansas, to Fort Belknap, Texas ....... 170 
 
 III. Section on Cache creek, near its junction with Red river. . . . 173 
 
 IV. Section of strata on north branch of Red river, taken June 2. . . . 176 
 V. Section of Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river, taken 
 
 June 3 ................ ..... .......................... 176 
 
 VI. Out-crop of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone near north 
 
 branch of Red river 178 
 
 VII. Section of the borders of the Llano Estacado, taken June 16^ 179 
 
 VIII. Section of strata near middle branch of Red River, taken June 21 179 
 IX. Section of Bluffs bewteen middle branch of Red river and Dog- 
 town river, taken June 24 ................................ • 180 
 
 *A11 the geological sections are by Dr George G. Shumard, surgeon to the 
 expedition. 
 
XII ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Plate. Page. 
 
 X. Section of strata near the head of Red river, taken June 28. . . . 181 
 
 XI. Section of the cliffs on Cache creek 183 
 
 PALEONTOLOGY.* 
 
 I. Fig. 1 a. Productus cora, D'Orb. 189 
 
 Fig. 2. Productus costatus, Sow 189 
 
 Fig. 3. Spirifer, indet . . 190 
 
 Fig. 4. a. b. Terebratula marcyi, Shum 190 
 
 Fig. 5. Productus punctatus, Martin 188 
 
 Fig. 6. Archimedipora archimedes, Les 188 
 
 Fig. 7. Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost 186 
 
 II. Fig. 1. Productus punctatus, Martin 188 
 
 Fig. 2 a. b. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow . . . , , 191 
 
 Fig. 3 a b. Terebratula choctawensis, Shum.. 195 
 
 Fig. 4. a. b. c. Hemiaster elegans, Shum. 198 
 
 III. Fig. 1. Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shum 197 
 
 Fig. 2. Holaster simplex. Shum 198 
 
 Fig. 3. Astarte washitensis, Shum 194 
 
 Fig. 4. Ammonites, indet 197 
 
 Fig. 5. Exogyra texana, Roem 192 
 
 Fig, 6. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow 191 
 
 IV. Fig. 1. Trigonia crenulata, Lam. .. .. . . 193 
 
 Fig. 2. Cardium multistriatum, Shum 194 
 
 Fig. 3. Eulima subfusiformis, Shum 196 
 
 Fig. 4. Globiconcha elevata, Shum 196 
 
 Fig. 5. Ammonites marcianus, Shum 197 
 
 Fig. 6. Pileopsis ; not mentioned in the text 
 
 Fig. 7. Holectypus planatus, Roem 199 
 
 Fig. 8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall 189 
 
 V. Fig. la, b. Exogyra texana, Roem 192 
 
 Fig. 2. Ostrea subovata, Shum 193 
 
 * Owing to the impossibility of communicating with Dr. Shumard during the 
 printing and engraving of the present report, 1 have been unable to fill up the 
 gaps in the above list of figures made up from the references in the article on 
 palaeontology. This want of supervision on the part of the author will also ex- 
 plain the existence of sundry discrepancies between text and plates. 
 
 R. B. M. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. XIII 
 
 Plate. Page. 
 
 V. Fig. 3. Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shum.. ............. 135 
 
 VI. Fig. 1. Panopaja texana, Shura . . 194 
 
 Fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roera 193 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. Natica. indet. (cast ;) not mentioned in the text 
 
 Fig. 5. Gryphsaa pitcheri, Morton 192 
 
 ZOOLOGY. 
 
 PI. Crotalus confluentus, Say 202 
 
 II. Eutenia proxima, B. & G 205 
 
 III. Eutania marciana, B. & G 206 
 
 IV. Heterodon nasicus, B. & G 208 
 
 V. Pituophis McClellanii, B. & G 211 
 
 VI. Scotophis ltBtus, B. & G 213 
 
 VII. Ophibolus sayi, B. & G. 214 
 
 VIII. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 216 
 
 IX. Leptophis majalis, B. & G 219 
 
 X. Figs. 1-4. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G 227 
 
 Figs. 5-12. Sceloporus consobrinus, B. & G. 224 
 
 XI. Bufo cognatus, Say 229 
 
 XII. Pomotis (Bryttus) Longulus, B. & G.. ...... . ....... . 233 
 
 XIII. Pometis breviceps 235 
 
 XIV. Figs. 1-4. Leuciscus vigilax, B. & G 237 
 
 JFigs. 5-8. Leuciscus bobalinus, B. & G 233 
 
 Figs. 9-12. Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. .................... . 239 
 
 XV. Figs. 1-4. Brachypeplus magnus, G 249 
 
 Figs. 5-8. Anabrus qaldemanii, G 248 
 
 Figs. 9-13. Daihinia brevipes, Hald 240 
 
 XVI. Figs. 1-3. Mygale hentzii, G 251 
 
 Figs. 4-5. Lycosa pilosa, G. 252 
 
 XVII. Figs. 1-4. Thelyphonus excubitor, C. 254 
 
 Figs. 5-7. Schrpio (Telegonus) boreus, G 257 
 
 XVIII. Scoiopendra heros, G.. ....... 262 
 
XIV ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 BOTANY.* 
 
 Plate. Page. 
 
 I. Anemone careliniana, Walt, 267 
 
 II. Pithyrsee wislizenii, Engelm 267 
 
 III. Geranium Fremontii, Torr. 291 
 
 IV. Hoffmanseggia Jamesii, Torr. & Gr 271 
 
 V. Sanguisorba annua, Nutt 272 
 
 VI. Eryngium diffusum, Torr . 273 
 
 VII. Liatris acidota, Engelm. & Gray 274 
 
 IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC 276 
 
 X. Xanthisma Texana . 292 
 
 XI. Engelmannia pinnaiifida, Torr. & Gr 276 
 
 XII. Artemisia filifolia, Torr . 274 
 
 XIII. Erythsea Beyrichi, Torr. & Gr 278 
 
 XIV. Heliotropium tenellum 292 
 
 XV. Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt „ 280 
 
 XVI. Fensstemon ambignus, Torr 279 
 
 XVII. Lippia cuneifolia, Torr 280 
 
 XVIII. Abronia cycloptera 293 
 
 XIX. Poa interrupta 288 
 
 XX. Uniola stricta, Torr , 288 
 
 * For explanations of the figures on each plate, see p. 291. 
 
MAPS. XV 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 1. Map of the country between the frontiers of Arkansas and New Mexico ; 
 embracing the section explored in 1849- '50- '51 and '52, by CaptainR. B. Marcy, 
 5th U. S. infantry, under orders from the War Department. Also, a continua- 
 tion of the emigrant road from Fort Smith and Fulton down the valley of the 
 Gila. 
 
 2. Map of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, ex- 
 plored in 1852 by Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th infantry, assisted by Brevet Cap- 
 tain George B. McClellan, U. S, engineers. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 Order from head -quarters of the army — Failure of former expeditions in reaching 
 the sources of Red River — Causes of failure — Departure from Washington — 
 Arrival at Fort Belknap — The Little Witchita — Big Witchita— Departure 
 from Cache creek — Copper ore — Indian signs. 
 
 New York, December 5, 1852. 
 
 Col. S. Cooper, Adjutant General U. S. Army: 
 
 Sir : I have the honor herewith to submit a report of an 
 exploration of the country embraced within the basin of Up- 
 per Red river, made in obedience to the following orders : 
 
 [Special Orders No. 33.] Adjutant General's Office, 
 
 Washington, March 5, 1852. 
 
 Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, with his company as an escort, will pro- 
 ceed, without unnecessary delay, to make an examination of the Red river and 
 the country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources, 
 according to the special instructions with which he will be furnished. On com- 
 pleting the exploration, Captain Marcy will proceed to Washington to prepare 
 his report. 
 
 Brevet Captain G, B. McCIellan, Corps of Engineers, is assigned to duty with 
 this expedition. Upon the completion of the field service, he will report to 
 Brevet Major General Smith, the commander of the 8th department. 
 
 The necessary supplies of subsistence and quartermasters' stores will be fur- 
 nished from the most convenient depots in the 7th or 8th military department. 
 
 By command of Major General Scott ; 
 
 R. JONES, Adjutant General. 
 
 Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the expe- 
 dition, it may be proper to remark, that during the greater 
 portion of the three years previous to the past summer, I had 
 been occupied in exploring the district of country lying upon 
 the Canadian river of the Arkansas, and upon the head-waters 
 of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of Texas. 
 
 During this time my attention was frequently called to the 
 remarkable fact, that a portion of one of the largest and most 
 important rivers in the United States, lying directly within 
 the limits of the district I had been examining, remained up 
 
 1 
 
2 EARLY EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER. 
 
 to that period wholly unexplored and unknown, no white mats 
 having ever ascended the stream to its sources. The only 
 information we had upon the subject was derived from Indians 
 and semi-civilized Indian traders, and was of course very 
 unreliable, indefinite, and unsatisfactory? in a word, the coun- 
 try embraced within the basin of Upper Red river had always- 
 been to us a "terra incognita." Several enterprising and 
 experienced travellers had at different periods attempted the 
 examination of this river, but as yet none had succeeded in 
 reaching its sources. 
 
 At a very early period, officers were sent out by the French 
 government to explore Red river, but their examinations ap- 
 pear to have extended no further than the country occupied 
 by the Natchitoches and Caddoes in the vicinity of the present 
 town of Natchitoches, Louisiana. Subsequent examinations 
 had extended our acquaintance with its upper tributaries, but 
 we were still utterly in the dark in regard to the true geo- 
 graphical position of its sources. 
 
 Three years after the cession to the United States-, by the 
 First Consul of the French republic, of that vast territory then 
 known as Louisiana, a small party, called the " Exploring 
 expedition of Red river," consisting of Captain Sparks, Mr. 
 Freeman, Lieut. Humphry, and Dr. Custis, with seventeen 
 private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers, and a black 
 servant, embarked from St. Catherine^ landing, near Natchez? 
 Mississippi, w T ith instructions to ascend Red river to its sources* 
 They descended the Mississippi, and on the 3d of May, 3806? 
 entered Red river, expecting to be able to ascend in their 
 boats to the country of the Pawnee (Pique) Indiana. Here 
 it was their intention to leave their boats, and, after packing 
 provisions on horses, which they were to purchase from the 
 Pawnees, to proceed (as expressed in their orders) to the top 
 of the mountains, the distance being, as they conjectured, about 
 three hundred miles; 
 
 It is evident from the foregoing that Red river was supposed 
 to issue from a mountainous country, and the preparations for 
 this expedition were made accordingly. This party encoun- 
 tered many difficulties and obstructions in the navigation of 
 the river among the numerous bayous in the vicinity of the 
 great raft, but finally overcame them all, and found them- 
 selves upon the river above this formidable obstacle. They 
 were, however, soon met by a large force of Spanish troops r 
 the commander of which ordered them to proceed no further ? 
 and as their numbers were too small for a thought of resist- 
 
PIKE S EXPEDITION. O 
 
 ance, they were forced to turn back and abandon the enter- 
 prise. 
 
 Another expedition was fitted out in 1806 by our govern- 
 ment, and placed under the command of that enterprising 
 young traveller, Lieut. Pike, who was ordered to ascend the 
 Arkansas river to its sources, thence to strike across the coun- 
 try to the head of Red river, and descend that stream to 
 Natchitoches. After encountering many privations and in- 
 tense sufferings in the deep snows of the lofty mountains about 
 the head-waters of the Arkansas, Lieut. Pike arrived finally 
 upon a stream running to the east, which he took to be Red 
 river, but which subsequently proved to be the Rio Grande. 
 Here he was taken by the governor of New Mexico and sent 
 home by way of Chihuahua and San Antonio, thus putting a 
 stop to his explorations. 
 
 General Wilkinson, under whose orders Lieut. Pike was 
 serving at the time, states, in a letter to him after his return, 
 as follows : " The principal object of your expedition up the 
 Arkansas was to discover the true position of the sources of 
 Red river. This was not accomplished." Lieut. Pike, how- 
 ever, from the most accurate information he could obtain, 
 gives the geographical position of the sources of Red river as 
 in latitude 33° N. and longitude 104° W. Again, in 1819- 
 '20, Col. Long, of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, on his 
 return from an exploration of the Missouri river and the coun- 
 try lying between that stream and the head of the Arkansas, 
 undertook to descend the Red river from its sources. The 
 Colonel, in speaking of this in his interesting report, says : 
 " We arrived at a creek having a westerly course, which we 
 took to be a tributary of Red river. Having travelled down 
 its valley about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of 
 Indians, of the nation of ' Kaskias,' or ' Bad Hearts,' who 
 gave us to understand that the stream. along which we were 
 travelling was Red river. We accordingly continued our march 
 down the river several hundred miles further, when, to our 
 no small disappointment, we discovered it was the Canadian 
 of the Arkansas, instead of Red river, that we had been ex- 
 ploring. 
 
 " Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our 
 long journey, which they had to perform barefooted, and the 
 season being too far advanced to admit of our retracing our 
 steps and going back again in quest of the source of Red 
 river, with the possibility of exploring it before the commence- 
 ment of winter, it was deemed advisable to give over the en- 
 
4 CONFUSED ACCOUNT OF RED RIVER* 
 
 terprise for the present and make our way to the settlements 
 on that Arkansas. We were led to the commission of this 
 mistake in consequence of our not having been able to pro- 
 cure a good guide acquainted with that part of the country, 
 Our only dependence in this respect was upon Pike's map, 
 which assigns to the head-waters of Red river the apparent 
 locality of those of the Canadian." 
 
 Dr. James, who accompanied Colonel Long, in his journal 
 of the expedition, says : " Several persons have recently ar- 
 rived at St. Louis, in Missouri, from Santa Fe, and among 
 others the brother of Captain Shreeves, who gives information 
 of a large and frequented road, which runs nearly due east 
 from that place, and strikes one of the branches of the Cana- 
 dian ; that, at a considerable distance south of this jxnnt, in 
 the high plain, is the principal source of Red river. 
 
 " His account confirms an opinion we had previously 
 formed, namely: that the branch of the Canadian explored 
 by Major Long's party in August, 1820, has its sources near 
 those of some stream which descends towards the west into 
 the Rio del Norte, and consequently that some other region 
 must contain the head of Red river." He continues : 
 
 "From a careful comparison of all the information we have 
 been able to collect, we are satisfied that the stream on which 
 we encamped on the 31st of August is the Rio Raijo of Hum- 
 boldt, long mistaken for the sources of Red river of Natchito- 
 ches. In a region of red clay and sand, where all the streams 
 become nearly the color of arterial blood, it is not surprising 
 that several rivers should have received the same name ; nor 
 is it surprising that so accurate a topographer as the Baron 
 Humboldt, having learned that a Red river rises forty or fifty 
 miles east of Santa Fe, and runs to the east, should conjec- 
 ture it might be the source of Red river of Natchitoches. 
 
 " This conjecture (for it is no more) we believed to have 
 been adopted by our geographers, who have with much con- 
 fidence made their delineations and their accounts to corres- 
 pond with it." 
 
 Hence it will be seen that up to this time there is no record 
 of any traveller having reached the sources of Red river, 
 and that the country upon the head-waters of that stream has 
 heretofore been unexplored. The Mexicans and Indians on 
 the borders of Mexico are in the habit of calling any river, 
 the waters of which have a red appearance, "Rio Colorado," 
 or Red river, and they have applied this name to the Cana- 
 dian in common with several others ; and as many of the prai- 
 
REPAIR TO FORT SMITH. O 
 
 rie Indians often visit the Mexicans, and some even speak the 
 Spanish language, it is a natural consequence that they should 
 adopt the same nomenclature for rivers, places, &c. Thus, 
 if a traveller in New Mexico were to inquire for the head of 
 Red river, he would most undoubtedly be directed to the 
 Canadian, and the same would also be the case in the adja- 
 cent Indian country. These facts will account for the mis- 
 take into which Baron Humboldt was led, and it will also 
 account for the error into which Colonel Long and Lieut. 
 Pike have fallen in regard to the sources of the stream which 
 we call Red river. 
 
 Dr. Greg?, in his "Commerce of the Prairies," tells us that 
 on his way down the south bank of the Canadian his Co- 
 manche guide, Manuel, (who, by-the-by, travelled six hun- 
 dred miles with me upon the plains, and whom I always 
 found reliable,) pointed out to him breaks or bluffs upon a 
 stream to the south of the Canadian, near what we ascer- 
 tained to be the true position of the head of the north branch 
 of Red river, and where it approaches within twenty-five 
 miles of the Canadian. These bluffs he said were upon the 
 " Rio Negro," which the Doctor supposed to be the Washita. 
 river ; but after having examined that section of country, I 
 am satisfied that the north branch of Red river must have 
 been alluded to by my guide, as the Washita rises further to 
 the east. It therefore seems probable that "Rio Negro is the 
 name which the Mexicans have applied to Red river of Lou- 
 isiana. 
 
 Immediatel} r on the receipt of the foregoing order I repaired 
 to Fort Smith, Arkansas, where the Quartermaster General 
 had directed that transportation should be furnished me, but 
 on arriving there I learnedathat nearly ail the means of trans- 
 portation had a short time before been transferred to the 
 depot at Preston, Texas. Captain Montgomery, the quarter- 
 master at Fort Smith, manifested every disposition to facili- 
 tate my movements, and supplied me with ten most excellent 
 horses, with which I proceeded on to Preston. At this point 
 I made a requisition upon the quartermaster for a sufficient 
 number of teams to transport supplies of subsistence, aud 
 baggage for my command, for five months. These were 
 promptly furnished by Bvt. Major George Wood, to whom I 
 am under many obligations for his active and zealous co- 
 operation in supplying me with such articles as were neces- 
 sary for the expedition. With but few resources at his com- 
 mand, with animals that had been worked down, and, in 
 
6 DEPARTURE FROM FORT BELKNAP. 
 
 consequence of the scarcity of grain, very poor, and with 
 parts of old wagons much worn, he succeeded in a very few 
 days in fitting me out with twelve ox teams that performed 
 very good service. 
 
 As my company was at Fort Belknap upon the Brazos 
 river, one hundred and sixty miles from Preston, and as the 
 route by way of Fort Arbuckle to the mouth of Cache creek 
 (the initial point of my reconnoissance upon Red river), is 
 much the shortest, I determined to leave my supply train 
 under the charge of a wagonmaster to bring forward over 
 this route, and to proceed myself to Fort Belknap and march 
 my company over the other trail, uniting with the train at the 
 mouth of Cache creek. 
 
 I accordingly reached Fort Belknap on the 30th of April, 
 and on the 2d of May left with my company, marching over 
 the Fort Arbuckle road as far as where it intersects Red 
 river. As our road led us along near the valley of the Little 
 Witchita, I took occasion to examine it more particularly 
 than I had ever done before, and foiand it a much more de- 
 sirable section of country than I had imagined. 
 
 The soil in the valley is very productive ; the timber, con- 
 sisting of overcup, white-oak, elm, hackberry, and wild china, 
 is large and abundant, and the adjoining prairie is covered 
 with a heavy growth of the very best grass. The stream at 
 fifteen miles above its confluence with Red river is twenty 
 feet wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current, the water 
 clear and sweet. 
 
 From the point where I first struck it, good farms could be 
 made along the whole course of the creek to its mouth. The 
 country adjoining is high, rolling prairie, interspered here and 
 there with groves of post-oak, a nd*p resents to the eye a most 
 pleasing appearance. 
 
 From the Little Witchita we ascended Red river along the 
 south bank, over very elevated swells of undulating prairie, 
 for twenty-five miles, when, on the 9th, we reached the high 
 bluffs of a large tributary called the ' 4 Big Witchita river/'' 
 This stream flows over a clay bed from the southwest and 
 enters Red river about eight miles below Cache creek. It is 
 a deep, sluggish stream, one hundred and thirty feet wide, 
 the water at a high stage very turbid, being heavily charged 
 with red sedimentary matter ; the banks abrupt and high, 
 and composed of indurated red clay and dark sandstone. 
 The river is very tortuous in its course, winding from one side 
 to the other of a valley a mile in width, covered with a luxu- 
 
THE BIG WITCHITA. 7 
 
 riant sward of nutritious mezquite grass, which affords the 
 very best pasturage for animals. 
 
 The latitude of this place is 34° 25' 51". 
 
 There are but few trees on the borders of the Big Witchita : 
 occasionally a small grove of cotton-wood and hackbery is 
 seen j but, with this exception, there is no timber or fuel near. 
 
 The valley of the river for ten miles above the mouth (the 
 portion I examined) is shut in by bluffs about one hundred 
 feet high, and these are cut up by numerous ravines, in many 
 of which we found springs of pure cold water. The water 
 in the main stream, however, is brackish and unpalatable. 
 
 It is my impression that the Big Witchita is of sufficient 
 magnitude to be navigable with small steamers of light 
 draught at almost any stage of water. 
 
 In consequence of the high water in Red river, we were 
 detained at the mouth of the Witchita until the morning of 
 the 12th. during which time our provisions being almost con- 
 sumed, and not knowing positively when our wagon train 
 would join us, I took two Indians with packhorses, swam the 
 river, and started out in quest 'of it. After going about 
 twenty-five miles towards Fort Arbuckle, we struck the trail 
 of the wagons, and, following it two miles, overtook them. 
 They had been detained several days by heavy rains, which 
 had rendered the ground very soft, and in many places 
 almost impassable. In consequence of this, some of the 
 wagons had been broken, and the repairs caused a still 
 further detention. Early on the following morning, after 
 packing the horses with provisions, we returned to where we 
 had left the command, and on our arrival found that the 
 water in the river had fallen sufficiently to admit of fording. 
 Accordingly, on the morning of the 12th, during a violent 
 rain, we commenced the crossing, which was anything but 
 good, as the quicksand in the bed of the river was such as 
 to make it necessary to keep the wagons in constant motion. 
 The moment they stopped, the wheels would sink to the 
 axles, requiring much force to extricate them. By placing a 
 number of men upon each side of the mules and wagons to 
 assist them when necessary, we however succeeded in reach- 
 ing the opposite bank without any serious accident. The 
 latitude at the point where we crossed is 34° 29'. The river 
 is here two hundred yards wide and four feet deep, with a 
 current of three miles per hour ; the banks upon each side 
 low and sandy, but not subject to overflow. Passing out 
 through the timbered land on the bottoms, we ascended the 
 
O CACHE CREEK. 
 
 high bluff bordering the valley by a gradual slope of about a 
 mile, which brought us upon a very elevated prairie, with the 
 valley of Cache creek in view directly before us. We arrived, 
 there on the evening of the 13th, but found that the train had 
 not yet come up. During our march to-day we passed a 
 small stream flowing into Red river, and directly at the 
 point of crossing, in a gulley washed out by the rains, we 
 found many pieces of copper ore, of a very rich quality? 
 lying upon the surface.* Our time, however was too limited 
 to admit of a thorough examination of the locality. 
 
 Cache creek is a stream of very considerable magnitude, 
 one hundred and fifty feet wide and three feet deep, with a 
 current of four miles per hour, flowing over a hard clay and 
 gravel bed between high abrupt banks, through a valley one 
 mile in width, of rich black alluvion, and bordered by the best 
 timber I have yet met with west of the Cross Timbers. 
 
 Several varieties of hard wood — such as overcup, pecan, 
 elm, hackberry, ash, and wild china — are found here, among 
 which there is much good timber. The overcup (Quercus 
 macrocarpa) especially, is here seen of very unusual size, 
 often from three to four feet in diameter. 
 
 This tree, from the length of its stock, the straightness of 
 its grain, and the facility with which it splits, is admirably 
 adapted to building purposes, and is made use of extensively 
 in the southwestern States. 
 
 The soil in the valley is of such superior quality, that any 
 kind of grain adapted to this climate could be produced with- 
 out the aid of irrigalion.f 
 
 * An analysis of this ore by Professor Shephard gives the following results : 
 
 Copper (with traces of iron) 35.30 
 
 Silica 30.60 
 
 Oxygen and water 34.10 
 
 100.00 
 
 f An analysis of the sub-soil from Cache creek, by Professor Shephard, shows 
 that it possesses strong and enduring constituents, and is admirably suited to 
 the production of grain. It is eminently calcareous, as will be seen from the 
 following analysis of its composition : 
 
 Silica 82.25 
 
 Peroxide of iron 2.65 
 
 Alumina .55 
 
 Carbonate of lime 5.40 
 
FORKS OF THE CREEK. 9 
 
 Three miles above the mouth the stream divides into two 
 branches, of about equal magnitude, both of them wooded 
 throughout as far as I traced them, and the soil along them 
 arable in the highest degree ; indeed, its fertility is manifest 
 from the very dense and rank vegetation everywhere ex- 
 hibited. The water in the creek is alkaline, but quite pala- 
 table ; and its temperature at the time we encamped upon 
 it was 75° F. Our supply train arrived on the 14th, but as 
 the recent rains had raised the water in the creek so much as 
 to prevent our crossing, we were obliged to remain here until 
 the 16th. 
 
 This being the point upon Red river at which we were 
 directed to commence our exploration, I propose from this 
 time to make such extracts Jrom my journal as I may con- 
 ceive pertinent to the objects of the expedition, as set forth in 
 the letter of special instructions, which I had the honor to 
 receive from your office, with such other information as may 
 be considered important, and the conclusions which I have 
 arrived at after an examination of the whole country embraced 
 within the limits of our reconnoissance. 
 
 On the morning of the 16th the water had fallen so much, 
 that after digging down the banks, the wagons were taken 
 over without difficulty. We found an excellent ford upon a 
 rapid, where the water was shallow, and the bed hard gravel. 
 
 Passing through the timbered land in the bottom, we struck 
 out across the valley, and ascended the ridge dividing Red 
 river from Cache creek; here we found a good road over 
 smooth, high prairie, and after travelling 14.789 miles, en- 
 camped upon a small affluent of the west fork of Cache creek, 
 where we found good water and wood. In the course of the 
 march to-day, we met with numerous detached pieces of cop- 
 per ore, mixed with volcanic scoria.* This scoria is found in 
 
 Carbonate of magnesia ].70 
 
 Water (hygrometric moisture) 5.50 
 
 Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash (only slight traces) .00 
 
 98.05 
 
 * These ores consisted of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which is inter- 
 spersed black oxide of copper and stains of malachite. According to Professor 
 Shephard's analysis, it only yields five per cent, of copper. 
 
 Upon the river, a few miles south of our route, we found specimens of a very 
 rich ore, which Professor Shephard, after a careful analysis, pronounces to be a 
 
10 
 
 INDIAN SIGNS. 
 
 large masses in the ravines we have passed, and extends 
 back several miles from the creek. The other rocks have 
 been principally sandstone. In the course of the day's march 
 we observed several Indian horse-tracks crossing our road, 
 which were made just previous to the last rain. The direc- 
 tion they had been going was towards the Witchita moun- 
 tains, and are the first Indian signs we have seen. 
 
 new species, which he has called Marcylite ; it was coated with a thin layer of 
 the rare and beautiful Atacamite, (muriate of copper,) and consists of— 
 
 Copper. 54.30 
 
 Oxygen and chloride 36.20 
 
 Water 9,50 
 
 100.00 
 
WITCHITA MOUNTAINS. 11 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Witchita mountains — Panther killed — Buffalo tracks — Singular and unac- 
 countable rise of water — Buffalo signs — Horse captured — Rains — Arrival 
 at Otter creek — Barometer broke — Character of Witchita mountains — 
 Buffalo killed — High water. 
 
 Soon after we had reached the high prairie ridge upon 
 which we had travelled to-day, we come in sight of the 
 Witchita mountains, some twenty-five or thirty miles to the 
 north, the chain seeming to be made up of a series of de- 
 tached peaks, running from the northeast to the southwest, as 
 far as the eye can reach. Rising as these mountains do upon the 
 naked prairie, isolated from all other surrounding eminences, 
 they form a very striking and prominent feature in the typog- 
 raphy of the country. We cannot yet form any definite esti- 
 mate as to their height, but shall avail ourselves of the first 
 opportunity to determine this point. 
 
 May 17. — On rising this morning I learned, much to my 
 surprise, that nearly all our oxen had wandered off during the 
 night, and had not yet been found. I immediately sent seven 
 of the teamsters in search of them ; but after being absent 
 two hours, they returned unsuccessful, reporting that they 
 could get no track of them. I then started with one of our 
 Delawares, and after going a short distance from camp took 
 the track, and following it about a mile, came up with the 
 animals, who had very quietly esconsed themselves in a grove 
 of timber near the creek. 
 
 As they had upon several occasions before given us trouble, 
 and occasioned the loss of much time, I resolved that in future 
 I would have them herded until late in the evening, and tie 
 them to the wagons for the remainder of the night. 
 
 As we did not march until very late this morning, we only 
 made eleven miles, and encamped upon one of the branches 
 of Cache creek. 
 
 Our road has continued upon the high ridge tying between 
 Red river and Cache creek, and has been perfectly firm, 
 smooth, and level. 
 
 We have to-day seen the first buffalo tracks. They were 
 
12 
 
 PANTHER KILLED. 
 
 made during the last rains, and are about five days old. We 
 are anxiously awaiting the time when we shall see the ani- 
 mals themselves, and anticipate much sport. 
 
 In the evening, shortly after we had turned out our ani- 
 mals to graze, and had made everything snug and comfortable 
 about us, ourselves reclining very quietly after the fatigue of 
 the day's march, one of the hunters came into camp and 
 informed us that a panther had crossed the creek but a short 
 distance above, and was coming towards us. This piece of 
 intelligence, as may be supposed, created no little excitement 
 in our quiet circle. Everybody was up in an instant, seizing 
 muskets, rifles, or any other weapon that came to hand, and, 
 followed by all the dogs in camp, a very general rush was 
 made towards the spot indicated by the Delaware. On 
 reaching the place, we found where the animal, in stepping 
 from the creek, had left water upon his track, which was not 
 yet dry, showing that he had passed within a short time. We 
 pointed out the track to several of the dogs, and endeavored, 
 by every means which our ingenuity could suggest, to inspire 
 them with some small degree of that enthusiasm which had 
 animated us. We coaxed, cheered, and scolded, put their 
 noses into the track, clapped our hands, pointed in the direc- 
 tion of the trail, hissed, and made use of divers other canine 
 arguments to convince them that there was something of im- 
 portance on hand ; but it was all to no purpose. They did 
 not seem to enter into the spirit of the chase, or to regard the 
 occasion as one in which there was much glory to be derived 
 from following in the footsteps of their illustrious predecessor. 
 On the contrary, the zeal which they manifested in starting- 
 out from camp, suddenly abated as soon as their olfactories 
 came in contact with the track, and it was with very great 
 difficulty that we could prevent them from running away. 
 At this moment, however, our old bear-dog came up, and no 
 sooner had he caught a snuff of the atmosphere than, sud- 
 denly coming to a stop and raising his head into the air, he 
 sent forth one prolonged note, and started off in full cry upon 
 the trail. He led off boldly into the timber, followed by the 
 other dogs, who had now recovered confidence, with the men 
 at their heels, cheering them on and shouting most vocifer- 
 ously, each one anxious to get the first glimpse of the panther. 
 They soon roused him from his lair, and after making a few 
 circuits around the grove, he took to a tree. 
 
 I was so fortunate as to reach the spot a little in advance 
 of the party, and gave him a shot which brought him to the 
 
SUDDEN RISE OP WATER. id 
 
 ground. The dogs then closed in with him, and others of the 
 party coming up directly afterwards, fired several shots, which 
 took effect, and soon placed him "hors du combat." He was 
 a fine specimen of the North American cougar (Fclis concohr,) 
 measuring eight and a half feet from his nose to the extremity 
 of his tail. 
 
 May 18. — At 6 o'clock this morning we resumed our march, 
 taking a course leading to the crest of the " divide," as we 
 thereby avoided many ravines which extended off' upon each 
 side towards the stream, and. were always sure of a good road 
 for our wagons. This ridge runs very nearly on our course, 
 but occasionally takes us some distance from Red river ; as, 
 for example, our encampment of last night was about nine 
 miles from the river, and we only came in sight of it once in 
 the course of our march yesterday. 
 
 As soon as the train was under way this morning, Capt. 
 McClellan and myself crossed over the dividing ridge and 
 rode to Red river. We found the bed of the stream about 
 seven hundred yards wide ; the valley enclosed with high bluffs 
 upon each side ; the soil in the bottom arenaceous, supporting a 
 very spare herbage ; and the water very turbid, and spread 
 over a large surface of sand. The general course of the 
 river at this point is a few degrees north of west. 
 
 We are all in eager expectation of soon falling in with the 
 buffalo, as we have seen the fresh tracks of quite a large herd 
 to-day. As we advance, the country, away from the borders 
 of the water-courses, becomes more barren, and woodlands 
 are less frequently met with; indeed, upon the river there is 
 no other timber but cotton wood (Pojndus angulata,) and elm 
 {TJlmus Americana,) and these in very small quantities ; for the 
 most part the valley of the river along where we passed to- 
 day is entirely destitute of trees. 
 
 We have seen near here several varieties of birds, among 
 which I observed the meadow lark (Sturnella ludoviciana,) the 
 pinnated grouse or prairie hen (Telrao cupido,) the Virginia 
 partridge (Ortyx Virginianus,) the killdeer {Charadrius voci- 
 ferous,) and several varieties of small birds. We encamped 
 upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where, on our arrival, 
 we found no water except in occasional pools along the bed ; 
 however, in the course of an hour some of the men, who had 
 gone a short distance up the creek, came running back into 
 camp and crying at the top of their voices "Here comes a 
 plenty of water for us, boys!" And, indeed, in a few min- 
 utes, much to our astonishment and delight, (as we were 
 
14 BUFFALO SIGNS. 
 
 doubtful about having a supply,) a perfect torrent came rush- 
 ing down the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the 
 banks, and continued running, turbid and covered with froth, 
 as long as we remained. Our Delawares regarded this as a 
 special favor from the Great Spirit, and looked upon it as a 
 favorable augury to the success of our enterprise. To us it 
 Was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the 
 last three days had been perfectly dry, with the sky cloudless. 
 If the stream had been of much magnitude we should have 
 supposed that the water came from a distance where there 
 had been rains; but it was very small, extending not more 
 than three miles from the point where we encamped. 
 
 Our Delawares report that they have seen numerous fresh 
 buffalo " signs," and that we shall probably soon come upon 
 the herds. We have captured a horse to-clay which has a 
 brand upon him, and has probably strayed away from some 
 party of Indians. 
 
 May .19. — Last evening the sky became overcast with 
 heavy clouds, and frequent flashes of lightning were observed 
 near the horizon in the north and northwest. Atmospheric 
 phenomena of this character are regarded by the inhabitants 
 of northern Texas as infallible indications of rain, and in veri- 
 fication thereof we had a very severe storm during the night. 
 Much rain has fallen, and the earth has become so soft that I 
 have concluded to remain here until the ground dries a little, 
 particularly as it still continues raining at intervals, and the 
 weather is very much unsettled. Frequent rains are very 
 unusual upon the plains at this season of the year ; the rainy 
 season generally lasts until about the first of May, when the 
 dry season sets in, and there is seldom any more rain until 
 about the middle of August. The past spring has been un- 
 commonly dry— -so much so, that vegetation has suffered from 
 it: now, however, the herbage is verdant and the grass most 
 luxuriant. 
 
 May 20. — -Although it continued raining violently during 
 the night, and the ground was this morning mostly covered 
 with water, we yet made an attempt to travel, but found the 
 prairie so soft that it was with very great difficulty our teams 
 were enabled to drag the wagons over it. We only made 
 five miles and encamped upon a small affluent of Cache 
 creek, which with all the small branches in the vicinity were 
 full to the top of their banks. We find but few trees along 
 the branch upon which we are encamped; hackberry and 
 wild china are the only varieties. 
 
BAROMETER BROKEN. lO 
 
 On the 21st we again made an effort to travel; but after 
 going a short distance up the creek, found ourselves obliged - 
 in consequence of the mud, to encamp and await dry weather. 
 
 May 22.— Thig morning, notwithstanding it was cloudy 
 and the ground very far from being dry, we made another 
 effort to proceed. Still keeping the high "divide," we trav- 
 elled in a westerly direction about eight miles, when we turn- 
 ed north towards two -very prominent peaks of the Witchka 
 mountains, and continued in this course until we arrived upon 
 an elevated spot in the prairie, where we suddenly came in 
 sight of Red river, directly before us. Since we had last 
 seen the river it had changed its course almost by a right 
 angle, and here runs nearly north and south, passing through 
 the chain of mountains in front of us. We continued on for 
 four miles further, when we reached a fine, bold, running 
 creek of good water, which we were all rejoiced to see, as 
 we had found no drinkable water during the day. We en- 
 camped about four miles above its confluence with Red river. 
 
 This stream, which I have called Otter creek, (as those 
 animals are abundant here,) rises in the Wichita mountains, 
 and runs a course south 25° west. There are several varie- 
 ties of wood upon its banks, such as pecan, black walnut, 
 white ash, elm, hackberry, cotton-wood, wild china, willow? 
 and mezquite ; and among these I noticed good building tim- 
 ber. The soil in the valley is a dark loam, and produces a 
 heavy vegetation. The sub-soil is argillaceous. Otter creek 
 is fifty feet wide, and one foot deep at a low stage of water.* 
 The country over which we have passed to-day has been an 
 elevated plateau, totally devoid of timber or water, and the 
 soil very thin and sandy. We have not yet come in sight of 
 any buffaloes, but have seen numerous fresh tracks. Antelopes 
 and deer are very abundant, and We occasionally see turkeys 
 and grouse. Captain MtClellan was so unfortunate as to 
 break his mountain barometer last night, which is much to be 
 regretted ; as we had brought it so far in safety, we suppose'd 
 all danger was passed, but by some unforseen accident it was 
 turned over in his tent and the mercurial tube brolen. For- 
 tunately, we have an excellent aneroid barometer, w r hich we 
 have found to correspond very accurately with the other up 
 to this time, and we shall now be obliged to make use of it 
 exclusively. 
 
 *The temperature of the water in the creek at our encampment we found to 
 be 720 F. 
 
16 OTTER CREEK. 
 
 On ascending Otter creek this morning as high as the point 
 where it debouches from the mountains, I found the timber 
 skirting its banks the entire distance, and increasing in quan- 
 ty as it nears the mountains. The mountains at the head of 
 the creek have abrupt rugged sides of coarse, soft, flesh-col- 
 ored granite, mixed with other granulated igneous rocks. 
 Greenstone, quartz, porphyry, and agate are seen in veins 
 running through the rocks, and in some pieces of quartz, 
 which were found by Dr. Shumard in the bed of the creek, 
 there were minute particles of gold. As the continued rains 
 have made the ground too soft to admit of travelling at pres- 
 ent, we are improving the time by laying in a supply of coal, 
 timber, &c, for our journey on the plains. 
 
 May 24. — It commenced raining again during the night, 
 and has continued without cessation all day. 
 
 May 25. — It has rained violently during all of last night, 
 and has not ceased this morning. When this long storm will 
 abate we do not pretend to form even a conjecture. It has 
 occurred to me that possibly these rains may fall annually in 
 the basin of Upper Red river; thus, perhaps, accounting for 
 what is termed the June rise in the river. As to the cause of 
 this rise there have been various conjectures ; some supposing 
 the river to have its sources in elevated mountain ranges, 
 where the melting of the snows would produce this result ; 
 others, again, consider it to be by rains upon the head-waters 
 of the river. This latter idea, however, seems rather im- 
 probable, as the country west of the Cross Timbers, so far as 
 known, is generally subjected to very great drought from May 
 to August. We are now in the immediate vicinity of the 
 Witchita mountains, and it is possible they may have an ef- 
 fect upon the weather by condensing the moisture in the at- 
 mosphere, and causing rain in this particular locality. 
 
 May 26.— Some of the mountain* which we ascended yes- 
 terday upon the east side of the creek, exhibited a conforma- 
 tion and composition similar to those upon the west side — that 
 of a coarse, soft, flesh-colored granite, the peaks conical, oc- 
 casionally* terminating in sharp points, standing at intervals 
 of from a quarter to one mile apart. In some instances the 
 rocks are thrown together loosely, but here and there showing 
 a very imperfect and irregular stratification, with the seams 
 dipping about twenty degrees with the horizon. The direc- 
 tion of this mountain chain is about south 60° west, and from 
 five to fifteen miles in breadth. Its length we are not yet able to 
 determine. Red river, which passes directly through the wes- 
 
MINERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 17 
 
 tern extremity of the chain, is different in character at the 
 mouth of Otter creek from what it is below the junction of 
 the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. There it is only one hundred and 
 twenty yards wide ; the banks of red clay are from three to 
 eight feet high, the water extending entirely across the bed, 
 and at this time (a high stage) about six feet deep in the chan- 
 nel, with a rapid current of four miles per hour, highly 
 charged with a dull-red sedimentary matter, and slightly 
 brackish to the taste. Two buffaloes were seen to-day, one 
 of which was killed by our guide, John Bashman. 
 
 Deer and antelopes are plenty, but turkeys are becoming 
 scarce as we go west ; grouse and quail are also occasionally 
 seen here. As Otter creek continues very high, I intended, if 
 Red river had been fordable, to have crossed that stream this 
 morning and continued up the south bank ; but we found the 
 water about eight feet deep, and have no other alternative but 
 to wait until it falls. Along the banks of Red river, for the 
 last thirty miles, we have observed a range of sand-hills, from 
 ten to thirty feet high, which appear to have been thrown up 
 by the winds, and support a very spare vegetation of weeds, 
 grape-vines, and plum-bushes. Upon the river the timber has 
 diminished so much that we now find only here and there a 
 few solitary cotton-woods. 
 
 From the fact that the Witchita mountains are composed 
 almost entirely of granite and other silicious rocks that usually 
 accompany metallic veins, and that in many places along the 
 range they bear evident marks of great local disturbance, and 
 from the many detached specimens of copper ore found upon 
 the surface throughout this region, I have no doubt but that 
 this will be found, upon examination, to be a very productive 
 mineral district. 
 
18 WITCHITAS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Witchitas — Discouraging accounts of the country in advance — Pass 100° of 
 longitude — Leave Otter creek — Berries — Elk creek — Pass Witchita moun- 
 tains — Gypsum bluffs — Buffaloes seen — Suydam creek — Comanche signs. 
 
 May 27. — As the water still continues at too high a stage 
 for crossing, we moved our camp up the creek about a mile 
 this morning, where we found better grass for our animals. 
 Shortly after we had pitched our tents, a large party of In- 
 dians made their appearance on the opposite bank, and re- 
 quested us to cut a tree for them to cross upon, as they wished 
 to have "a talk" with " the captain." I accordingly had a 
 tall tree cut, which fell across the stream, when they came 
 over upon it and encamped near us. 
 
 They proved to be a hunting party of Witchitas, about one 
 hundred and fifty in number, and were commanded by an old 
 chief, " Canaje-Hexie." They had with them a large num- 
 ber of horses and mules, heavily laden with jerked buffalo 
 meat, and ten wild horses which they had lassoed upon the 
 prairie. They said they had been in search of us for several 
 days ; having learned we were comiug up Red river, they 
 were desirous of knowing what our business was in this part 
 of their country. I replied to them that I was going to the 
 head of Red river, for the purpose of visiting the Indians, cul- 
 tivating their friendship, and delivering to them "a talk" from 
 the Great Captain of all the whites, who, in token of his kindly 
 feelings, had sent some presents to be distributed among such of 
 his red children as were friends to Americans; and as many of 
 them continue to regard Texas as a separate and independent 
 republic, I endeavored to impress upon them the fact that the 
 inhabitants of that State were of the same nation as the whites 
 in other parts of the United States. I also told them that all 
 the prairie tribes would be held responsible for depredations 
 committed against the people of Texas, as well as elsewhere 
 in our territories. I made inquiries concerning the country 
 through which we still have to pass in our journey. 
 
 They said we would find one more stream of good water 
 about two days' travel from here ; that we should then leave 
 
DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS. 19 
 
 the mountains, and after that find no more fresh water to the 
 sources of the river. The chief represented the river from 
 where it leaves the mountains as flowing over an elevated flat 
 prairie country, totally destitute of water, wood, or grass, 
 and the only substitute for fuel that could be had was the buf- 
 falo " chips." They remarked in the course of the interview 
 that some few of their old men had been to the head of the 
 river, and that the journey could be made in eighteen days by 
 rapid riding ; but the accounts given by those who had made 
 the journey were of such a character as to deter others from 
 attempting it. They said we need have no apprehension of 
 encountering Indians, as none ever visited that section of the 
 country. I inquired of them if there were not holes in the earth 
 where the water remained after rains. They said no ; that the 
 soil was of so porous a nature that it soaked up the water as 
 soon as it fell. 1 then endeavored to hire one of their old men 
 to accompany me as guide ; but they said they were afraid to 
 go into the country, as there was no water, and they were fear- 
 ful they would perish before they could return. The chief 
 said, in conclusion, that perhaps I might not credit their state- 
 ments, but that I would have abundant evidence of the truth 
 of their assertions if I ventured much further with my com- 
 mand. This account of the country ahead of us is truly dis- 
 couraging ; and it would seem that we have anything but an 
 agreeable prospect before us. As soon, however, as the creek 
 will admit of fording I shall, without subjecting the command 
 to too great privations, push forward as far as possible into 
 this most inhospitable and dreaded salt desert. As the In- 
 dians, from their own statements, had travelled a great dis- 
 tance to see us, I distributed some presents among them, with 
 a few rations of pork and flour, for which we received their 
 acknowledgments in their customary style — by begging for 
 everything else they saw. 
 
 May 28. — Capt. McClellan has, by observations upon lunar 
 distances, determined the longitude of our last camp upon the 
 creek to be 100° 0'45 v , which is but a short distance from the 
 point where the line dividing the Choctaw territory from the 
 State of Texas crosses Red river. The point where this line 
 intersects Otter creek is marked upon a large elm tree standing 
 near the bank, and it will be found about tour miles from the 
 mouth of the creek upon the south side, with the longitude 
 (100° 0' 45") and the latitude (34° 34' 6") distinctly marked 
 upon it. 
 
 Captain McClellan will start to-morrow morning for the 
 
20 PASS THE 100° OF WEST LONGITUDE. 
 
 purpose of running the meridian of the 100th degree of longi- 
 tude to where it intersects Red river, and will mark the point 
 distinctly. 
 
 May 29. — After digging down the banks of the creek this 
 morning, we were enabled to cross the train and resume our 
 march up the river ; our course led us towards the point 
 where the river debouches from the mountains, and our pres- 
 ent encampment is directly at the base of one of the peaks, 
 near a spring of good water. This mountain is composed of 
 huge masses of loose granite rock, thrown together in such 
 confusion that it is seldom any portion can be seen in its orig- 
 inal position. There are veins of quartz, greenstone, and 
 porphyry running through the granite, similar to those that 
 characterize the gold-bearing formation of California, New 
 Mexico, and elsewhere. This fact, in connection with our 
 having found some small particles of gold in the detritus along 
 the bed of Otter creek, may yet lead to the discovery of import- 
 ant auriferous deposites in these mountains. Among the border 
 settlers of Texas and Arkansas, an opinion has for a long time 
 prevailed that gold was abundant here, and several expeditions 
 have been organized among them for the purpose of making- 
 examinations, but the Indians have opposed their operations,, 
 and in every instance, I believe, compelled them to abandon 
 the enterprise and return home, so that as yet no thorough ex- 
 amination of the mountains has ever been made.* 
 
 We find blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cur- 
 rants growing upon the mountains ; and this is the only local- 
 ity west of the Cross Timbers where I have seen them. 
 Grapes and plums are also abundant here, as elsewhere, upon 
 Upper Red river- The grapes are rather smaller than our 
 fox-grapes, are sweet and juicy when ripe, and I have no 
 doubt would make good wine ; they grow upon small bushes 
 about the size of currant-bushes, standing erect like them, and 
 are generally found upon the most sandy soil, along near the 
 jborders of the streams. The plums also grow upon small 
 bushes from two to six feet high, are very large and sweety 
 fand in color vary from a light pink to a deep crimson ; they 
 pre the Chicasaw plum, (Primus chicasa.) 
 
 * Specimens of quartz and black sand were collected in the mountains ; and 
 from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites in the quartz, 
 and from its similarity to the gold-bearing quartz of California, we were induced 
 to hope that it might contain gold, but a rigid analysis by Professor Shephard 
 did not detect any trace of the precious metal. 
 
RED RIVER. 21 
 
 May 30. — Captain McClellan returned this morning, having 
 traced the meridian of the 100th degree of west longitude to 
 where it strikes Red river. This point he ascertained to be 
 about six miles below the junction of the two principal 
 branches, and three-fourths of a mile below a small creek 
 which puts in from the north upon the left bank, near where 
 the river bends from almost due west to north. At this point 
 a cotton-wood tree, standing fifty feet from the water, upon 
 the summit of a sand hill, is blazed upon four sides, facing 
 north, south, east, and west, and upon these faces will be 
 found the following inscriptions : upon the north side " Texas, 
 100° longitude ; " upon the south side, "Choctaw Nation, 
 100° longitude ; " upon the east side, "Meridian of 100°, 
 May 29, 1852;" and upon the west side Captain McClellan 
 marked my name, with the date. At the base of the sand- 
 hill will be found four cotton-wood trees, upon one of which 
 is marked " Texas," and upon another will be found inscribed 
 "20 miles from Otter Creek." 
 
 Red river at this place is a broad, shallow stream, six hun- 
 dred and fifty yards wide, running over a bed of sand. Its 
 course is nearly due west to the forks, and thence the course 
 of the south branch is WNW. for eight miles, when it turns 
 to nearly NW. The two branches are apparently of about 
 equal magnitude, and between them, at the confluence, is a 
 very high bluff, which can be seen for a long distance around. 
 We are encamped to-night near two mountains, about three 
 miles from the river, and one mile west of the head of the 
 west branch of Otter creek, near a spring of pure cold water, 
 which rises in the mountains and runs down past our camp. 
 Our road leads along near the creek valley, which is from one 
 to two miles wide, with a very productive soil, covered with 
 a dense coating of grass, and skirted with a variety of hard 
 timber. 
 
 May 31. — Our course to-day was northwest until we ■en- 
 countered a bold running stream of good water, forty feet 
 wide and three feet deep, flowing between very high and al- 
 most vertical red clay banks, through a broad, flat valley, 
 about two miles wide, of a dark alluvial soil, the fertility of 
 which is obvious from the dense vegetation which it supports. 
 
 There is a narrow fringe of pecan, elm, hackberry, black 
 walnut, and cotton-wood, along the banks of the creek ; but 
 the timber is not so abundant, or of as good a quality, as that 
 upon Otter creek. The abrupt banks made it necessary for 
 us to let our wagons down with ropes. We, however, crossed 
 
22 ELK CREEK. 
 
 in a short time, and marched about three miles further, en- 
 'camping near a small spring of good water, where the wood 
 and grass were abundant. 
 
 From the circumstance of having seen elk tracks upon the 
 stream we passed in our march to-day, I have called it "Elk 
 creek." I am informed by our guide that five years since elk 
 were frequently seen in the Witchita mountains ; but now 
 they are seldom met with in this part of the country. 
 
 The deer and antelopes still continue plenty, but turkeys 
 are scarce. 
 
 One that our greyhounds caught to-day is the first we have- 
 seen for several days. The pinnated grouse, quail, lark, 
 mocking-bird, and swallow-tailed fly-catcher, are also fre- 
 quently seen. 
 
 June 1. — During our march to-day we passed along the 
 borders of a swift-running rivulet of clear water, which issues 
 from springs in the mountains, and is filled with a multitude 
 of fish. We also passed near the base of a very prominent 
 and symmetrical mountain, which can be seen for twenty 
 miles upon our route, and is a most excellent landmark. Sev- 
 eral of the gentlemen ascended this peak with the barometer, 
 and its altitude, as thereby indicated, is seven hundred and 
 eighty feet above the base. 
 
 Captain McClellan has called this " Mount Webster," in 
 honor of our great statesman ; and upon a rock directly at 
 the summit he has chiselled the names of some of the gentle- 
 men of the party. The valleys lying between many of these 
 mountains have a soil which is arable in the highest decree. 
 
 ml • 
 
 I hey are covered with grasses, which our animals eat greed- 
 ily. There are also many springs of cold, limpid water burst- 
 ing out from the granite rocks of the mountains, and flowing 
 down through the vallej^s, thereby affording us, at all times, 
 a most delicious beverage, where we were led to believe, from 
 the representations of the Witchitas, we would find only bitter 
 and unpalatable water. This is an unexpected luxury to us, 
 and we now begin to cherish the hope ttiat all the discourag- 
 ing accounts of those Indians may prove equally erroneous. 
 
 Taking an old Comanche trail this morning, I followed it 
 to a narrow defile in the mountains, which led me up through 
 a very tortuous and rocky gorge, where the well-worn path 
 indicated that it had been travelled for many years. It pre- 
 sented a most wild and romantic appearance as we passed 
 along at the base of cliffs, which rose perpendicularly for 
 several hundred feet directly over our heads upon either side. 
 
SALT FORK. 23 
 
 We saw the tracks of several elk that had passed the defile 
 the day previous. 
 
 After crossing the mountains, we descended upon the south 
 side, where we found the river flowing directly at the base ; 
 and after ascending it about two miles, arrived at a point 
 where it again divided into two nearly equal branches. The 
 water in the south branch (which I have called "Salt Fork") 
 Is bitter and unpalatable, and when taken into the stomach 
 produces nausea; whereas that in the other branch, although 
 not entirely free from salts, can be used in cases of great ex- 
 tremity. The compound resulting from the mixture of the 
 water in the two branches below the confluence is very dis- 
 agreeable to the taste. The north branch, which I propose 
 to ascend, is, near the junction, one hundred and five feet 
 wide, and three feet deep, with a very rapid current, and the 
 water of much lighter color than that in the Salt Fork. Three 
 miles below the fork, between the river and the base of the 
 mountains, there is a grove of post-oak timber, which Cap- 
 tain McClellan, who examined it, estimates to cover an area 
 of four or five hundred acres. This is well suited for build- 
 ing purposes, being large, tall, and straight. There is also 
 an extensive tract of mezquite woodland near our camp. 
 
 One of the Dela wares caught two bear cubs in the moun- 
 tains to-day ; one of which he brought in his arms to camp. 
 As the mountain chain crosses the river near here, and runs 
 to the south of our course, we shall leave it to-morrow, and 
 launch out into the prairie before us, following up the bank of 
 the river, which appears to flow through an almost level and 
 uninterrupted plain, as far as the eye can extend. I have 
 provided water-casks of sufficient capacity to contain water 
 for the command for three days. I shall always have them 
 filled whenever we find good water ; and I hope thereby to 
 be enabled to reach the sources of the river without much 
 suffering. I cannot leave these mountains without a feeling 
 of sincere regret. The beautiful and majestic scenery through- 
 out the whole extent of that portion of the chain we have 
 traversed, with the charming glades lying between them, 
 clothed with a luxuriant sward up to the very bases of the 
 almost perpendicular and rugged sides, with the many springs 
 of delicious water bursting forth from the solid walls of gran- 
 ite, and bounding along over the debris at the base, forcibly 
 reminds me of my own native hills, and the idea of leaving 
 these for the desert plains gives rise to an involuntary feeling of 
 melancholy similar to that I have experienced on leaving home. 
 
24 APPEARANCE OF GYPSUM. 
 
 June 2. — We left our last night's camp at 3 o'clock this 
 morning, and taking a course nearly clue west, emerged from 
 the mountains out into the high level prairie, where we found 
 neither wood nor water until we reached our present position, 
 about half a mile from Red river, upon a small branch, with 
 water standing in holes in the bed, and a few small trees scat- 
 tered along the banks. The latitude at this point is 35° 3' ; 
 longitude, 100° 12'. 
 
 On leaving the vicinity of the mountains, we immediately 
 strike a different geological formation. Instead of the gran- 
 ite, we now find carbonate of lime and gypsum. The soil, 
 except upon the stream, is thin and unproductive. The grass, 
 however, is everywhere luxuriant. Our animals eat it eager- 
 ly, and are constantly improving. Near our encampment 
 there are several round, conical-shaped mounds, about fifty 
 feet high, composed of clay and gypsum, which appear to 
 have been formed from a gradual disintegration and washing 
 away of the adjacent earth, leaving the sides exposed in such 
 a manner as to exhibit a very perfect representation of the 
 different strata. 
 
 June, 3. — We were in motion again at 3 o'clock this morn- 
 ing, our course leading us directly towards a very prominent 
 range of hills situated upon the north bank of Red river, and 
 immediately on the crest of the third terrace or bench border- 
 ing the river valley. Their peculiar formation, and very ex- 
 traordinary regularity, give them the appearance, in the dis- 
 tance, of gigantic fortifications, capped with battlements of 
 white marble. Upon examination they were found to consist 
 of a basis of green or blue clay, with two super-strata of 
 beautiful snow-white gypsum, from five to fifteen feet in thick- 
 ness, resting horizontally upon a sub-stratum of red clay, with 
 the edges wholly exposed, and so perfectly symmetrical that 
 one can with difficulty divest himself of the idea that it must 
 be the work of art, so much does it resemble masonry. In 
 many places there are perfect representations of the re-enter- 
 ing angles of a bastion front, with the glacis revetted with 
 turf, and sloping gently to the river. Several springs issue 
 from the bluffs, and (as I have always found it to be the case 
 in the gypsum formation) the water is very bitter and disa- 
 greeable to the taste. 
 
 I am inclined to believe that this same formation extends 
 in a southwesterly direction from the Canadian river to this 
 place, as I passed through a belt of country upon that stream 
 somewhat similar to this, and in a position to be a continua- 
 
COPPER ORE. 25 
 
 tion of it. We crossed the river near the lower extremity of 
 the bluffs, at a point where we found it fifty yards wide and 
 sixteen inches deep, with a current of three miles per hour, 
 running over a bed of quicksand. We passed without diffi- 
 culty by keeping the animals in rapid motion while in the 
 stream, and encamped upon the high bluff on the south side. 
 By following up the course of a ravine in the side of the gyp- 
 sum bluffs, where there were detached pieces of copper ore, 
 we discovered a vein of this metal which proved to be the 
 " green carbonate," but not of so rich a character as that we 
 had seen before. At this point we are nearly opposite the 
 western extremity of the chain of Witchita mountains.* 
 
 June 4. — We made an early start this morning, and trav- 
 elled in the direction of a chain of bluffs which appeared to us 
 to be upon the branch of the river we were ascending ; but 
 on reaching them we found ourselves upon a creek running 
 towards the Salt Fork, the bluffs of which we could see from the 
 top of an eminence near the creek, about eight miles distant. 
 
 To regain our route we were obliged to turn directly north, 
 and march about six miles in this direction, when we again 
 came in sight of the main North Fork. In our route we have 
 passed near several hills of similar formation to that of the 
 gypsum bluffs before described. Sulphate of lime is found 
 in large quantities throughout this section, and occurs in va- 
 rious degrees of purity, from the common plaster of Paris to 
 the most beautifully transparent selenite I have ever seen. I 
 observed several specimens, from one to two inches in thick- 
 ness, that were as absolutely colorless and limpid as pure water. 
 
 We are encamped upon the elevated prairie, near a clump 
 of trees, where we find water standing in pools. We have 
 found the grass abundant, and the water and wood sufficiently 
 so for our purposes at all our camps since we left our visitors, 
 the Witchitas. 
 
 * Professor Shephard's analysis of a specimen of the sub-soil from the valley of 
 the river near our camp on the third June gives the following result : 
 
 Silica 79.30 
 
 Peroxide of iron 8.95 
 
 Alumina 1.50 
 
 Carbonate of lime 1.10 
 
 Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and chloride of 
 
 sodium 4.G5 
 
 Water 4.50 
 
 110.00 
 
26 BUFFALOES SEEN. 
 
 As I was riding to-day with one of our Delawares, about 
 three miles in advance of the train, we suddenly (as we rose 
 upon an eninence in the prairie) came in sight of four buffalo 
 cows with calves, very quietly grazing in a valley below us. 
 We at once put spurs to our horses, and, with our rifles in 
 readiness, set out at a brisk gallop in pursuit; but, unfortu- 
 nately they had "the wind" of us, and were instantly bound- 
 ing off over the hills at full speed. We followed them about 
 three miles, but as they were much in advance at the outset, 
 we could not overtake them without giving our horses more 
 labor than we cared about, and so abandoned the chase. Our 
 greyhounds caught two young deer upon the open prairie to- 
 day, and they have had several chases in pursuit of the ante- 
 lope, but have not as yet been able to come up with them. 
 The latitude of our present position is 35° 15' 43". 
 
 June 5. — After marching nearly a mile from our last camp, 
 we crossed a running brook of clear water, which had a slightly 
 suphurous taste and odor. It rises in the hills to the south- 
 west, and runs rapidly, like a mountain stream, into the main 
 river. The appearance of this stream reminded me so forcibly 
 of some I have seen in the mountains of Pennsylvania, that I 
 searched it faithfully, expecting to see the spotted trout, but 
 only found a few sun-fish and minnows. 
 
 From this brook to our present position, the country we 
 traversed was exceedingly monotonous and uninteresting, be- 
 ing a continuous succession of barren sand-hills, producing no 
 other herbage than the artemisia, and a dense growth of 
 dwarf oak bushes, about eighteen inches high, which seem to 
 to have attained their full maturity, and bear an abundance of 
 small acorns. The same bush is frequently met with upon 
 the Canadian river near this longitude, and is always found 
 upon a very sandy soil. Our camp is in the river valley, near 
 a large spring of sulphurous water, in the midst of a grove 
 of cotton-wood trees. Upon a creek we passed to-day on the 
 opposite bank of the river we noticed pecan, elm, hackberry, 
 and cotton-wood trees. The grass still continues good, and 
 the water of the main river, although not good, can be used. 
 The bed of the river is here one hundred yards wide, with but 
 little water passing over the surface, being mostly absorbed 
 by the quicksands. Our Indians brought in three deer this 
 evening, and the greyhounds have caught a full-grown doe in 
 a fair chase upon the open prairie. We occasionally see a 
 few turkeys, but they are not as abundant as we found them 
 below here. There are several varieties of birds around our 
 
SUYDAM CREEK. 27 
 
 camp, amnng which we saw the white owl, meadows-lark, 
 mocking-bird, king-bird, swallow, swallow-tailed fly-catcher, 
 and quail. 
 
 June 6. — Starting at 3 o'clock this morning, we crossed the 
 river near our last camp, and passed over a very elevated 
 and undulating prairie for ten miles, when we reached a large 
 creek flowing into Red river, which, in compliment to my 
 friend, Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city, who accom- 
 panied the expedition, I have called " Suydam creek." It is 
 thirty feet wide ; the water clear, but slightly brackish, and 
 flows rapidly over a sandy bed between abrupt clay banks, 
 which are fringed with cotton-wood trees. As the water in 
 the main river near our camp is very bitter, we were obliged 
 to make use of that in the creek. 
 
 Above our present encampment there appears to be a 
 range of sandhills, about three miles wide, upon each side of 
 the river, which are covered with the same herbage as those 
 we passed below here. 
 
 We have seen the trail of a large party of Comanches, 
 which our guide says passed here two days since, going south. 
 I regret that we did not encounter them, as I was anxious to 
 make inquiries concerning our onward route. These Indians 
 were travelling with their families. Upon a war expedition 
 they leave their families behind, and never carry lodges, 
 encumbering themselves with as little baggage as possible. 
 On the other hand, when they travel with their families, they 
 always carry all their worldly effects, including their portable 
 lodges, wherever they go ; and as they seldom find an en- 
 campment upon the prairies where poles for the frame-work 
 of the lodges can be procured, they invariably transport them 
 from place to place, by attaching them to each side of the 
 pack-horses, with one end trailing upon the ground. These 
 leave parallel marks upon the soft earth after they have 
 passed, and enable one at once to determine whether the trail 
 is made by a war party or otherwise. The Comanches, during 
 the past year, have not been friendly with the Delawares and 
 Shawnees ; and although there has as yet been no organized 
 demonstration of hostilities, they have secretly killed several 
 men, and in consequence our hunters entertain a feeling of 
 revenge towards them. They, however, go out alone every 
 day upon their hunts, are frequently six or eight miles from 
 the command, and seem to have no fears of the Comanches, 
 as they are liable to encounter them at any moment ; and 
 being so poorly mounted that they could not escape, their 
 
28 COMANCHE SIGNS. 
 
 only alternative would be to act on the defensive. I havd 
 cautioned them upon the subject several times, but they say) 
 that they are not afraid to meet any of the prairie Indians, 
 provided the odds are not greater than six to one. They are; 
 well armed with good rifles — the use of which they under- 
 stand perfectly — are intelligent, active, and brave, and in my 
 opinion will ere long take ample satisfaction upon the Co- 
 manches for every one of their nation that falls by their 
 bands. 
 
BUFFALO CHASE* ^3 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Buffalo chase— Sweet Water creek— Comanche camps— Prevailing winds- 
 Indians seen — Method of encamping—Wonderful powers of the Delawares— 
 Beaver dams— Kioway creek, 
 
 June 7.-— Taking two of the Indians this morning, I went 
 out for the purpose of making an examination of the surround- 
 ing country and ascertaining whether good water could be 
 found upon our route for our next encampment. We had 
 gone about three miles in a westerly direction, when we 
 struck a fresh buffalo track leading north ; thinking we might 
 overtake him, we followed up the trace until we came near 
 the summit of an eminence upon the prairie, when I sent one 
 of the Indians (John Bull) to the top of the hill, which was 
 about one-fourth of a mile distant, to look for the animal. 
 He had no sooner arrived at the point indicated than we saw 
 him make a signal for us to join him, by riding round rapidly 
 several times in a circle and immediately putting off at full 
 speed over the hills. We set out at the same instant upon a 
 smart gallop, and on reaching the crest of the hill discovered 
 the terrified animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John 
 Bull in hot pursuit about five hundred yards behind him. As 
 we followed on down the prairie we had a fine view of the 
 chase. The Delaware was mounted upon one of our most 
 fractious and spirited horses, that had never seen a buffalo 
 before, and on coming near the animal he seemed perfectly 
 frantic with fear, making several desperate surges to the right 
 and left, any one of which must have inevitably unseated his 
 rider had he not been a most expert and skilful horseman. 
 During the time the horse was plunging and making such 
 efforts to escape, John, while he controlled him with masterly 
 adroitness, seized an opportunity and gave the buffalo the 
 contents of his rifle, breaking one of his fore-legs, and some- 
 what retarding his speed : he still kept on, however, making 
 good running, and it required all the strength of our horses 
 to bring us alongside of him. Before we came up our most 
 excellent hunter, John Bull, had recharged his rifle and 
 placed another directly back of the shoulder ; but so tenacious 
 
C2 GRAMA GRASS. 
 
 of his life is this animal, that it was not until the other Dela- 
 ware and myself arrived and gave him four additional shots, 
 that we brought him to the ground. Packing the best pieces 
 of the meat upon our horses, we went on, and in a few miles 
 found a spring-brook, in which there was an abundance of 
 good water, where I determined to make our next encamp- 
 ment. On our return we saw a pack of wolves, with a mul- 
 titude of ravens, making merry over the carcass of the buf- 
 falo we had killed in the morning. 
 
 Thinking that the Comanches, whose trail we had seen 
 yesterday, might possibly be encamped within a few miles of 
 us, I this morning directed Captain McClellan to take the 
 interpreter and follow the trace. After going about fifteen 
 miles he found one of their camps that had been abandoned 
 two days previous ; and as there was no prospect of over- 
 taking^ them he returned, after ascertaining that they were 
 travelling a southerly course towards the Brazos river. 
 
 In many places above the Witchita mountains we have 
 found drift of quartz and scoria, but the boulders of green- 
 stone, granite, and porphyry, were only seen below the upper 
 end of the range ; and the nearer we approached the moun- 
 tains from below, the larger and more angular became the 
 fragments, until, on reaching near the base, large angular 
 pieces nearly covered the surface of the ground, thereby lead- 
 ing us to the conclusion that here is the source of the boulders 
 we have seen below the mountains ; whereas the drift found 
 here must come from above, as we have yet discovered no 
 igneous rocks in place since we left the mountains. The 
 formation here is a dark limestone overlaid with loose scoria. 
 The earth upon the stream is highly arenaceous, and the soil 
 poor. The grass, however, as we have found it everywhere 
 upon Red river and its tributaries, is of a very superior qual- 
 ity, consisting of several varieties of grama and mezquite. 
 
 The range of the grama grass, so far as my observations 
 have extended, is bounded on the north by near the parallel 
 of 36° north latitude, and on the east by about the meridian 
 of 98° west longitude. It extends south and west, as far as 
 I have travelled ; it appears, however, to flourish better in 
 about the latitude of 33° than in any other. As there is gen- 
 erally a drought on these prairies from about the 1st of May 
 to the^ middle of August, it would appear that the particular 
 varieties of grasses that grow here do not require much 
 moisture to sustain them. 
 
 June 8.— Our route to-day has been over a rolling prairie, 
 
SWEET-WATER CREEK. 31 
 
 in many places covered with the dwarf oak bushes before 
 mentioned. We are encamped upon a creek of clear and 
 wholesome water, which Dr. Shumard has named " Loess 
 creek," from the circumstance that the soil upon the stream 
 contains a deposit of land and fresh-water shells, among 
 which are found those of Pupa muscorum, Succiena elongata, 
 and Helix plebcium, forming a pulverent grayish loam similar 
 to the loess found upon the Rhine. 
 
 No fossils were seen in this silt, but our time would not ad- 
 mitof making a very thorough examination of the locality. 
 Specimens of the shells were, however, procured, to accom- 
 pany our collection, and were found to be similar to those 
 described by Lyell as occurring in Europe. 
 
 The creek is twenty feet wide, and eight inches deep ; runs 
 rapidly between low banks, with only a few cotton- wood and 
 elm trees upon them. There are also some few small knots 
 or clumps of trees upon the elevated prairie lands in the vi- 
 cinity. The observations for latitude at this point give the 
 result, 35° 24' 50". 
 
 June 9. — At half-past 2 o'clock this morning we were en 
 route again over a very elevated prairie for six miles, when 
 we arrived in the valley of a fine stream of pure water, 
 twelve feet wide, and one foot deep, with a rapid current. 
 This stream is fringed by large cotton- wood trees along the 
 banks, and the grass in the valley is most excellent, consisting 
 of the mezquite and wild rye, which our animals are very 
 fond of. From the fact of the water being so good in this 
 stream, we called it Sweet-water creek. The valley is bor- 
 dered upon each side by bluffs from ten to forty feet high ; the 
 soil a reddish loam, and quite productive, being somewhat 
 similar in appearance to that in the bottoms of Red river, be- 
 low the confluence of the Witchita, where the most abundant 
 crops are produced. 
 
 As we ascend the river, we have conclusive evidence of the 
 falsity of the representations of our visitors, the Witchita s. 
 It will be remembered they told us that the entire country 
 was a perfectly desolate waste, where neither man nor beast 
 could get subsistence, and that there was no danger from In- 
 dians, as none ever resorted to this section of Red river. 
 Their statements have proved false in every particular, as we 
 have thus far found the country well watered, the soil in many 
 places good, everywhere yielding an abundance of the most 
 nutritious grasses, with a great sufficiency of wood for all the 
 purposes of the traveller. 
 
32 INDIANS SEEN. 
 
 There are several old camps near us, which appear to have 
 been occupied some two or three weeks since by the Coman- 
 ches ; the grass where their animals have grazed is not yet 
 grown up. 
 
 Red river, which is about six miles distant from our present 
 position, is eighty yards wide, with but a very small portion 
 covered with water, running over the quicksand bed. The 
 banks upon each side are from four to ten feet high, and not 
 subject to inundation. The valley is here about half a mile 
 wide, shut in by sandy bluffs thirty feet high, which form the 
 border to a range of sand-hills extending back about five miles 
 upon each side of the river. The soil in the valley is sandy 
 and sterile, producing little but scattering weeds and stunted 
 brush. 
 
 June 10. — Our course to-day has been almost due west, up 
 the north bank of Sweet-water creek. The country upon 
 each side of the valley is high and gently undulating, and the 
 geological formation has changed from deep-red sandstone to 
 carboniferous limestone. 
 
 The weather for the last four days has been very cold, as 
 will be seen from the meteorological tables appended ; indeed, 
 I think I have never in this latitude known the thermometer to 
 range as low at this season. Upon the plains where I have 
 heretofore travelled during the summer months, a strong breeze 
 has generally sprung up about 8 o'clock in the morning and 
 lasted until after night, reaching its maximum intensity about 3 
 o'clock in the afternoon. This breeze comes from the south, 
 and generally rises and subsides with as much regularity as 
 the sea-breeze upon the Atlantic coast, which fact has given 
 rise to the opinion that it comes from the Gulf of Mexico. 
 These cool and bracing winds temper the atmosphere, heated 
 to intensity by the almost vertical rays of the sun, rendering 
 it comfortable and even pleasant in midsummer. Observa- 
 tions were made this evening for the determination of latitude, 
 and the result showed, 35° 26' 13". 
 
 June 11. — We crossed Sweet-water creek at 3 o'clock this 
 morning, and, keeping back upon the high prairie bordering 
 the valley, travelled eight miles in nearly a w T est course, when 
 we crossed two fresh Indian trails, which, from the circum- 
 stance of there being no trace of lodge-poles, our guide pro- 
 nounced to have been made by war parties ; and he states 
 that he has during the day seen four Indians upon a hill in the 
 distance taking a look at us, but that they turned immediately 
 on seeing him and galloped off. The fact of their not being 
 
MODE OF ENCAMPING. 33 
 
 disposed to communicate with us looks suspicious, and they 
 may have hostile intentions towards us ; but with our custo- 
 mary precautions, I think we shall be ready to receive them, 
 either as friends or enemies. 
 
 Our usual method of encamping is, where we can find the 
 curve of a creek, (which has generally been the case,) to 
 place ourselves in the concavity, with the wagons and tents 
 extending around in a semi-circle, uniting at each extremity 
 of the curve of the creek, so as to enclose a sufficient space 
 for the command ; thus we are protected on one side by the 
 creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. 
 Immediately after reaching our camping-ground, all the ani- 
 mals are turned out to graze, under charge of the teamsters, 
 who are armed, and remain constantly with them, keeping 
 them as near the command as the supply of grass will per- 
 mit. We generally commence the day's march about 3 
 o'clock in the morning, and are ready to encamp by 11 
 o'clock ; this gives ample time for the animals to graze before 
 night, when they are driven into camp. The horses and mules 
 are picketed within the enclosure, while the oxen are tied up 
 to the wagons ; sentinels are then posted upon each side of 
 the encampment, and kept constantly walking in such direc- 
 tions that they may have the animals continually in view. 
 
 Many have supposed that cattle in a journey upon the plains 
 would perform better and keep in better condition by allow- 
 ing them to graze in the morning before starting upon the 
 day's march, which would involve the necessity of travelling 
 during the heat of the day. These persons are of opinion 
 that animals will only feed at particular hours of the day, 
 and that the remainder of the day must be allotted them for 
 rest and sleep, and that unless these rules are adhered to 
 they will not thrive. This opinion, however, is, I think, er- 
 roneous, and I also think that cattle will adapt themselves to 
 any circumstances, so far as regards their working hours and 
 their hours of rest. If they have been accustomed to labor at 
 particular hours of the day, and the order of things is at once 
 reversed, the working hours being changed into hours of rest, 
 they may not do as well for a few days, but they soon become 
 accustomed to the change, and eat and rest as well as before. 
 
 By starting at an early hour in the morning during the sum- 
 mer months, the day's march is over before it becomes very 
 warm ; whereas, (as I have observed,) if the animals are al- 
 lowed time to graze before starting, the march must continue 
 during the middle of the day, when the animals (particularly 
 3 
 
34 RESORT OP INDIANS. 
 
 oxen) will suffer much from the heat of the sun, and, so faf 
 as my experience goes, will not keep in as good condition as 
 when the other plan is pursued. I have adopted this course 
 from the commencement of our journey, and our oxen have 
 continued to improve upon it. Another and very important 
 advantage to be derived from this course is found in the fact 
 that the animals, being tied up during the night, are not liable 
 to be lost or stolen. 
 
 The country over which we are now passing, except di* 
 rectly in the valleys of the streams, is very elevated and 
 undulating, interspersed with round conical hills, thrown up 
 by the winds, with the appices very acute ; the soil, a light 
 gray sand, producing little other vegetation than weeds and 
 dwarf oaks. 
 
 The creek up which we have been travelling runs almost 
 parallel to Red river, -and affords us fine camping places at 
 any point. 
 
 From the very many old Indian camps that we have seen, 
 and the numerous stumps of trees which, at different periods, 
 have been cut by the Indians along the whole course of 
 the creek, we infer that this is, and has been for many years, 
 a place of frequent resort for the Comanches, and I have no 
 doubt they could always be found here at the time the buffa- 
 loes are passing back and forth in their migrations during the 
 spring and winter. 
 
 The parties of Indians whose trails we crossed in our march 
 to-day were going south, and not having their families with 
 them, our interpreter infers that they are bound for Mexico 
 upon a foray. Had we met them, and learned that such was 
 their intention, we might perhaps have dissuaded them from 
 proceeding further. They may have seen our trail : if so, 
 and they are friendly, they will visit us. Should they not 
 come in, however, I shall send out an Indian after them to 
 ascertain where they encamped and the time they left. In 
 In consequence of their known hostility, our Delawares are 
 getting somewhat cautious about encountering them. The 
 interpreter says he would not be afraid to meet five or six, 
 but thinks he would avoid a greater number. I directed him, 
 in the event of his meeting a party, to invite them to come to 
 camp, as I had a talk for them. He replied, " Suppose he 
 want to kill me — I not tell him." 
 
 This man has often been among the prairie Indians, un- 
 derstands their language and character well, and the moment 
 he sees a trail made by them, or an old deserted camp, he at 
 
SAGACITY OF INDIANS. 35 
 
 'oftce determines of what nation they were : the number of 
 horses and mules in their possession ; whether they were ac- 
 companied by their families, and whether they were upon a 
 war expedition or otherwise ; as also the time (within a few 
 hours) of their passing, with many other facts of importance. 
 
 These faculties appear to be intuitive, and confined exclu- 
 sively to the Indian : I have never seen a white man that 
 could judge of these matters with such certainty as they. 
 For example, upon passing the trail of the Indians to-day, 
 one of our Delawares looked for a moment at the foot-prints, 
 picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed, and said 
 the trail was made two days since, when to us it had every 
 appearance of being quite fresh; subsequent observations 
 satified us that he was correct* 
 
 Upon another occasion, in riding along over the prairie, I 
 saw in the sand what appeared to me to be a bear-track, with 
 the impression of all of the toes, foot, and heel ; on pointing 
 it out to one of the Indians, he instantly called my attention 
 to some blades of grass hanging about ten inches over the 
 maiks, and explained to me that while the wind is blowing, 
 these blades are pressed towards the earth, and the oscilla- 
 tion thereby produced had scooped out the light sand into the 
 form I have mentioned. This, when explained, was perfectly 
 simple and intelligible ; but I am very much inclined to be- 
 lieve the solution of it would have puzzled the philosophy of 
 a white man for a long time. 
 
 A few such men as the Delawares attached to each com- 
 pany of troops upon the Indian frontier would, by their know- 
 ledge of Indian character and habits, and their wonderful 
 powers of judging of country, following tracks, &c, (which 
 soldiers cannot be taught,) enable us to operate to much bet- 
 ter advantage against the prairie tribes. In several instances 
 when we have had our animals stray away from camp, I 
 have sent six or eight teamsters for them, who, after search- 
 ing a long time, would often return unsuccessful. I would 
 then send out one Indian, who would make a circuit around 
 the camp until he struck the tracks of the lost animals, and 
 following them up, would invariably return with them in a 
 short time. In this way their services are almost indispen- 
 sable upon an expedition like ours. 
 
 June 12. — Our course to-day was very nearly due west, up 
 the left bank of Sweet-water creek, until, within about three 
 miles of our present position, we turned with the course of 
 the stream more northwardly. 
 
6b BEAVERS. 
 
 The country we passed over was similar to that of yester- 
 day, but not so sandy or so heavy upon our teams. We 
 came in sight of a line of high bluffs this morning, which 
 were apparently about ten miles to the northwest of us. They 
 are very elevated, and present much the appearance of the 
 borders of the great Staked Plain, or the "Llano estacado" 
 of the Mexicans. 
 
 On reaching camp we found that a large party of Indians, 
 with very many animals, had been encamped here about two 
 weeks since. Numerous trails and horse tracks were seen in 
 every direction, and their animals have cropped the grass for 
 a long distance around. 
 
 Their lodges were pitched near our camp, and our guide 
 pronounced them to have been Kioways. On inquiring how 
 he could distinguish a Kioway from a Comanche camp, he 
 said the only difference was that the former make the holes 
 for their fires about two feet in diameter, while the latter only 
 make them about fifteen inches. 
 
 A community of beavers have also selected a spot upon 
 the creek near our camp, for their interesting labors and habi- 
 tations. I know of no animal concerning which the accounts 
 of travellers have been more extraordinary, more marvellous 
 or contradictory, than those given of the beaver. By some 
 he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a level with man. 
 He has been said, for instance, to construct houses, with sev- 
 eral floors and rooms ; to plaster the rooms with mud in such 
 a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six 
 or eight inches in diameter into the ground, and to perform 
 many other astounding feats, which I am inclined to believe 
 are not supported by credible testimony. Laying aside these 
 questionable statements, there is quite sufficient in the natural 
 history of the beaver to excite our wonder and admiration. 
 For instance, at this place, upon an examination of the dam 
 they have constructed, I was both astonished and delighted 
 at the wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they 
 have displayed. In the selection of a suitable site, and in 
 the erection of the structure, they appear to have been guided 
 by something more than mere animal instinct, and have ex- 
 hibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and the action 
 of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scien- 
 tific millwright would have done. Having chosen a spot 
 where the banks on each side of the creek were narrow and 
 sufficiently high to raise a head of about five feet, they se- 
 lected two cotton-wood trees about fifteen inches in diameter, 
 
RED RIVER. 37 
 
 situated above this point, and having an inclination towards 
 the stream : these they cut down with their teeth, (as the 
 marks upon the stumps plainly showed,) and, floating them 
 down to the position chosen for the dam, they were placed 
 across the stream with an inclination downward, uniting in 
 the centre. This formed the foundation upon which the su- 
 perstructure of brush and earth was placed, in precisely the 
 same manner as a brush dam is made by our millwrights, 
 with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the 
 butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is 
 raised to a sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, 
 except in the centre, where there is a sluice or waste-wier, 
 which lets off the superfluous water when it rises so high as 
 to endanger the structure. In examining the results of the 
 labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me that 
 the plan of erecting our brush dams must have been originally 
 suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are 
 very similar. I watched for some time upon the banks of the 
 pond, but could see none of the animals. I presume they 
 think we make too much noise in our camp to suit them, and 
 deem it most prudent to remain concealed in their sub-marine 
 houses. 
 
 I observed one place above the pond where they had com- 
 menced another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut 
 down two trees on opposite sides of the creek; but as they 
 did not fall in the right direction to suit their purposes, the 
 work was abandoned. As the course of Sweet-water creek 
 turns too much to the north above here, we shall leave it ; 
 and it is with much regret that we are obliged to do so, as it 
 has afforded us the best of spring water, with good grass and 
 wood, for five days. 
 
 June 13. — Leaving the command this morning encamped 
 upon Sweet-water creek, I made a trip to Red river, which 
 is about six miles in a southwest direction ; it was one hun- 
 dred yards wide where we struck it, with but a very small 
 portion covered with water, and, very much to our astonish- 
 ment, for the first time, upon tasting it, we found it free from 
 salts. Following up the stream about a mile, we discovered 
 that this good water all issued from a small stream that put 
 in upon the north bank, and above this the bed of the main 
 river was dry. As there is an incrustation of salt upon the 
 bed of the river below the creek, where the water has sub- 
 sided after a high stage, I have no doubt but that the water 
 above here will be found to be impregnated with salts, and 
 
38 RIVER TERRACES. 
 
 that all the fresh water now found in the river comes from 
 the creek mentioned. 
 
 Along the whole course of Red river, from Cache creek to 
 this point, we find three separate banks or terraces bordering 
 the river ; the first of which rises from two to six feet above 
 the bed of the stream. The second is from ten to twenty feet 
 high ; and the third, which forms the high bluff bordering the 
 valley of the river, is from fifty to one hundred feet. The first 
 bank is in places subject to inundation, and generally is from 
 fifty to two hundred yards wide. The second is never sub-- 
 merged, and is from two to fifteen hundred yards wide. The 
 third bank bounds the high prairie. We found the range of 
 sand-hills still continuing along the river ; and we have con- 
 stantly during the day been in sight of the line of bluffs which 
 I supposed to be the border of the "Llano estacado. " We 
 also passed the trail of a very large party of Indians, who 
 were ascending the river before the last rain, (some two weeks 
 since.) 
 
 After leaving the river on our return to camp, we found two 
 fine brooks of cold spring water, with good wood and grass 
 upon them, and as they are in our course, I propose to make 
 our next camp upon one of them. 
 
 June 14. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled 
 eleven miles in a westerly course, when we reached a very 
 beautiful stream of good spring water, flowing with a uniformly 
 rapid current through a valley about a mile wide, covered 
 with excellent grass. There is a heavy growth of young 
 cotton-wood trees along the borders of the creek, and among 
 them are found immense quantities of that peculiar variety of 
 grape I have before mentioned as growing in the sand-hills 
 along the valley of Red river. They grow here upon low 
 bushes, about four feet high, similar to those cultivated varie- 
 ties that are trimmed and cut down in the spring. When 
 growing near the trees they never rest upon them, like our 
 eastern varieties of the wild grape, but stand separate and 
 erect, like a currant bush. 
 
 This creek appears to be a place of winter resort for large 
 numbers of the prairie Indians. We found many old camps 
 along the stream, and the ground for several miles was thickly 
 strewn with cotton wood sticks, the bark of which had been 
 eaten off by their animals. The prairie tribes are in the 
 habit of feeding their favorite horses with the cotton- wood 
 bark in the winter ; and it is probably the abundance of this 
 wood that has attracted them here. We found the stumps of 
 
ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 39 
 
 the trees that they had cut from year to year in various stages 
 of decay — some entirely rotten, and others that had been cut 
 during the past winter. The fine mezquite and grama grass 
 furnishes pasturage for their animals during a great part of the 
 winter ; and the cotton-wood is a never failing resort when 
 the grass is gone. 
 
 As we are now nearly opposite the country on the Canadian 
 river occupied by the Kioway Indians, it is quite probable 
 that some of that nation winter at this place ; and I have no 
 doubt but that they could be found here at any time during 
 that season. I have called the creek Kioway creek. 
 
 Game is abundant in this vicinity ; and our hunters keep 
 the entire command constantly supplied with fresh meat, so 
 that we have not yet had occasion to kill one of our beef- 
 cattle. Seven deer and one antelope were killed to-day. For 
 months previous to leaving Fort Belknap, with the exception 
 of a few wild onions, my men had eaten no vegetables. Some 
 of them had been attacked with scurvy, and all were more or less 
 predisposed to it. I have, therefore, been exceedingly anxious 
 to take all possible precautions for warding off this most dreaded 
 disease. As I had no anti-scorbutic, with the exception of a 
 very few dried apples and a little citric acid, I was obliged 
 to make use of everything the country afforded as a substitute 
 for vegetables. I caused the men to eat greens whenever 
 they could be obtained, with the green grapes occasionally ; 
 and to-day we were so fortunate as to discover a fine bed 
 of wild onions (a most excellent anti-scorbutic) upon some 
 sand-hills over which we passed. A quantity were collected 
 by the men and made use of freely. 
 
KIOWAY ENCAMPMENT. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Reach the source of the north branch of Red river — Bottle buried — Arrived upon 
 the Canadian — Departure for Middle fork — Indian battle ground — Prairie-dog 
 towns — Source of the Middle fork — South fork — Prairie-dogs. 
 
 June 15. — On account of the morning being dark and the 
 clouds threatening rain, we did not leave camp until daylight 
 this morning. We, however, made a good day's march over 
 a very heavy sandy country, and after crossing the main river, 
 encamped upon the south bank. 
 
 During the day we crossed several small branches, in which 
 we found good water ; and in several places, where there was 
 timber upon them, we saw old Indian camps. At one place 
 I noticed a large grove of cotton-wood which had been en- 
 tirely enclosed with a brush fence by the Indians ; this was 
 probably made for the purpose of keeping their animals from 
 straying away. 
 
 On reaching the river we found that it had very much di- 
 minished in magnitude since we had last seen it. It was now 
 only fifteen yards wide, the water clear, and to the taste en- 
 tirely free from salts. 
 
 The herbage for the last twenty miles of our march has 
 suffered much from drought, and the grass in many places 
 upon the elevated lands is entirely burnt up. We, however, 
 continue to find excellent grass in the valleys near the borders 
 of the small streams, and upon the river itself. The only 
 varieties of timber that we find upon this part of Red river 
 are cotton-wood and hackberry, the former greatly predomi- 
 nating and of large dimensions. Indeed, I have never seen 
 so much timber at any other place upon the plains, in this 
 longitude, as we find here. 
 
 We have had the line of high bluffs in sight before us all 
 day, and we are now within a few miles of them. The geo- 
 logical formation through the country over which we are 
 passing is a light-colored calcareous sandstone, covered with 
 a drift of quartz and scoria. 
 
 Near our present position, upon the opposite side of the 
 
BOTTLE BURIED. 41 
 
 river, there has been a very large band of Kioways encamped, 
 abouWwo weeks since, and their animals have cropped much 
 of the grass for several miles around us. From the multitude 
 of tracks that we see in every direction, there must have been 
 an immense number of animals. On leaving here their course 
 was south. 
 
 June 16. — Striking our tents at three o'clock this morning, 
 we followed up the south bank of the river, which runs in a 
 westerly course for eight miles, when it suddenly turns to the 
 southwest, and here the elevated bluffs which we have had 
 in view for several days past approach the river upon each 
 side, until there is but a narrow gorge or canon for the pas- 
 sage of the stream. These bluffs are composed of calcareous 
 sandstone and clay, rising precipitously from the banks of the 
 stream to the height of three hundred feet, when they suddenly 
 terminate in the almost perfectly level plain of the "Llano 
 estacado." Here the river branches out into numerous rami- 
 fications, all running into the deep gorges of the plain. Taking 
 the largest, we continued up it, riding directly in the bed of 
 the stream for about five miles, when we reached the source 
 of this branch of the river, and by ascending upon the table- 
 lands above, we could see the heads of the other branches 
 which we had passed a few miles below. 
 
 The latitude at this place, as determined by several obser- 
 vations of Polaris, is 35° 35' 3", and the longitude 101° bb'. 
 These results make our position only about twenty-five miles 
 from the Canadian river ; and as I am anxious to determine 
 how our observations conform to those we made in ascending 
 that stream in 1849, I propose taking ten men, and leaving 
 the main body of the command to guard our oxen and stores, 
 to make a trip in a due north course to the Canadian. This 
 will serve to show the connexion between that stream and a 
 certain known point upon the head of the north branch of Red 
 river; and is, in my opinion, a geographical item which it is 
 important to establish and confirm by actual observation, par- 
 ticularly as the Canadian has by several travellers been mis- 
 taken for Red river. 
 
 At our encampment of this evening is the last running 
 water we have found in ascending this branch of Red river. 
 We are near the junction of the last branch of any magnitude 
 that enters the river from the north, and about three miles 
 from the point where it debouches from the plains, in a grove 
 of large cotton-wood trees upon the south bank of the river. 
 Under the roots of one of the largest of these trees, which 
 
42 CANADIAN RIVER. 
 
 stands near the river, and below all others in the grove, I have 
 buried a bottle, containing the following memorandum : ft "On 
 the 16th day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, Com- 
 posed of Captain R. B. Marey, Captain G. B. McClellan, 
 Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Doctor G. C. Shumard, with 
 fifty-five men of company D, fifth infantry, encamped here, 
 having this day traced the north branch of Red river to its 
 sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. 
 Strain, of Forth Washita, and Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New 
 York city." This tree is blazed on the north and east sides, 
 and marked upon the north side with a. pencil as follows : 
 " Exploring Expedition, June 16, 1852." 
 
 An incident happened this evening, which, for a short time, 
 gave us much uneasiness and alarm. It was caused by one 
 of the gentlemen of the party walking out from camp alone, 
 without our knowledge, and remaining away about two hours 
 before we discovered his absence. It was after dark when I 
 first learned that he was not in camp, and as there were many 
 fresh signs of Indians around, I was fearful he had fallen into 
 their hands. I immediately started out the Delawares in 
 search of him, and ordered our six-pounder to be discharged, 
 with muskets at short intervals, and at the same time made 
 preparations for starting out myself; but no sooner had the 
 cannon been fired than he made his appearance, in a state of 
 much excitement, and had evidently been greatly confused 
 and alarmed, as is always the case with persons who are lost. 
 He states that he had gone out for the purpose of taking a 
 short walk, and in returning over a hill had lost sight of the 
 camp; that, in endeavoring to make his way back, he had 
 become so much confused that after night he took ours for a 
 Comanche camp, and dared not approach until he heard the 
 
 sis;nal-£un. 
 
 June 17 to 19. — On the 17th, accompanied by three gen- 
 tlemen of the party, with five soldiers and three Indians, I 
 started in a northerly direction, to go in search of the Cana- 
 dian river. Our route led us immediately out upon the ele- 
 vated plateau of the Staked Plain, where the eye rests upon 
 no object of relief within the scope of vision. 
 
 Put suing our way over this monotonous and apparently 
 boundless plain for fifteen miles, our eyes were suddenly 
 gladdened by the appearance of a valley and bluffs before 
 us, which I at once recognised to be upon the Canadian ; and 
 after travelling ten miles further we found ourselves upon that 
 stream, making the entire distance from the head of Red 
 
SANTA FE ROAD. 
 
 43 
 
 river to the Canadian twenty-five miles. This was a matter 
 of much gratification and interest to us, as it developed and 
 confirmed the accuracy of our calculations regarding the geo- 
 graphical position of the sources of Red river. The point 
 where we struck the Canadian is at the mouth of a small 
 stream, called Sandy creek upon the map of the road from 
 Fort Smith to Santa Fe. This being near longitude 101° 45', 
 and latitude 35° 58', makes the calculations for the two posi- 
 tions approximate very closely. The formation upon the 
 Canadian at this point is very similar to that upon the Red 
 river, being composed of light-colored friable arenaceous lime- 
 stone, resting upon a stratum of red sand, with a substratum 
 of blue clay, the whole overlaid by a drift of quartz, felspar, 
 and agate. The soil upon the creek is a dark-brown loam, 
 covered with a heavy coating of wild rye and mezquite, and 
 if the drought of summer did not prevent, would produce 
 abundant crops. The only varieties of timber found here are 
 the wild china, hackberry, willow, and cotton-wood, the lat- 
 ter, in some instances, growing to an enormous size. One 
 tree, standing upon the creek near the Canadian, which we 
 measured, was nineteen and a half feet in circumference 
 at five feet above the ground. The Santa Fe road passes 
 directly along the river-bank at this place, and upon the north 
 side of the river stand four cotton-wood trees; these are 
 blazed, and the distance in a due south course to the head of 
 Red river, with the date of our arrival there, marked upon 
 one of them. Having finished the examination of the north 
 branch of Red river, we propose turning to the south from 
 this point, and, crossing the elevated prairie of the Staked 
 Plain, shall endeavor to reach the middle or Salt Fork, which 
 we passed upon our left near the upper extremity of the Wit- 
 chita range of mountains. The only apprehension that we 
 entertain is, that we may suffer for water, but shall keep our 
 water-casks filled whenever it is practicable. 
 
 The grass upon the Staked Plain is generally a very short 
 variety of mezquite, called buffalo grass, from one to two 
 inches in length, and gives the plains the appearance of an 
 interminable meadow that has been recently mown very close 
 to the earth. 
 
 I have never travelled over a route on the plains west of 
 the Cross Timbers where the water, grass, and wood were 
 as good and abundant as upon the one over which our explo- 
 rations have led us. This has been to us a most agreeable 
 surprise, as our friends, the Witchitas, had given us to under' 
 
44 m'clellan's creek. 
 
 stand that we should find no wood, and nothing but salt water, 
 in this section of country. I can account for their misrepre- 
 sentations only on the ground that they did not wish us to go 
 into the country, and took this course to deter us from proceed- 
 ing further. 
 
 June 20. — We made an early march this morning, passing 
 over the high hills bordering the river, and the broad swells 
 of prairie adjoining, for twelve miles, when we reached the 
 valley of a very beautiful stream, twenty feet wide, and six 
 inches deep, running rapidly ovejr a gravelly bed, through a 
 valley about a mile wide, of sandy soil, with large cotton- 
 wood trees along the banks. I have called this "McClellan's 
 creek," in compliment to my friend Captain McCleJlan, who 
 I believe to be the first white man that ever set eyes upon it. 
 
 We were happy, on arriving here, to find the water per- 
 fectly pure and palatable ; and we regard ourselves as most 
 singularly fortunate in having favorable weather. The rains 
 of the last two days have made the atmosphere delightfully 
 cool, and afford us water in many places where we had no 
 reason to expect it at this season of the year. 
 
 During the middle of the day, when the earth and the ad- 
 jacent strata of the air had become heated by the almost ver- 
 tical rays of the sun, we observed, as usual, upon the " Llano 
 estacado," an incessant tremulous motion in the lower strata 
 of the atmosphere, accompanied by a most singular and illu- 
 sive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly deluded 
 the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many 
 other places, is here seen in perfection. 
 
 The very extraordinary refraction of the atmosphere upon 
 these elevated plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be 
 distorted into the most wild and fantastic forms, and often exag- 
 gerated to many times their true size. A raven, for instance, 
 would present the appearance of a man walking erect ; and 
 an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo. In pass- 
 ing along over this thirsty and extended plain in a warm day, 
 the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appear- 
 ance of a beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly 
 upon the opposite bank. His heart beats with joy at the 
 prospect of speedily luxuriating in the cool and delicious ele- 
 ment before him, and he urges his horse forward, thinking it 
 very strange that he does not reach the oasis. At one time 
 he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the 
 distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness ; 
 then again he fancies that the object recedes before him, and 
 
MIRAGE. 
 
 45 
 
 he becomes discouraged and disheartened. And thus he 
 rides for miles and miles, and still finds himself no nearer 
 the goal than when he first saw it — when, perhaps, some sud- 
 den change in the atmosphere would dissipate the illusion, 
 and discloses to him the fact that he had been following a 
 mirage. 
 
 June 21. — On leaving our camp of last night, we crossed 
 the creek and continued a south course for about five miles, 
 when we rose upon the crest of a very elevated ridge which 
 divides the waters of the north from those of the middle or Salt 
 Fork, the valleys of both of which can be seen from this position. 
 Descending upon the south side of the ridge, we encamped 
 upon an affluent of the south fork, which runs rapidly through 
 a narrow valley in an easterly course. The water is abun- 
 dant, and free from salts. 
 
 The geological formation upon this side of the dividing- 
 ridge is different from that upon the north side, being here a 
 soft, coarse, friable, conglomerated sandstone, enclosing a 
 small drift of quartz, felspar, mica, and serpentine. The 
 country in this vicinity is much broken and cut up with deep 
 gorges and abrupt ridges, which are mostly impassable for 
 wagons, and we have, been obliged in consequence to travel 
 a very circuitous route to-day, keeping the dividing ridges as 
 much as possible, where we invariably find good ground for 
 a road. 
 
 June 22. — In our course this morning, we struck one of the 
 principal branches of the Salt Fork near its source, and fol- 
 lowed it down upon the left bank to its confluence with the 
 main stream. Below the junction the stream was fifty yards 
 wide, but only about one-fourth of its bed covered with 
 water. This branch of Red river, like the other, heads in 
 the border of the "Llano estacado," and directly at the source 
 is an elevated hill with abrupt vertical sides, terminating in a 
 level summit ; below this, upon the south bank, are two 
 round mounds that can be seen for many miles. 
 
 We were much gratified in finding the water at the head 
 of this branch, as in the north fork, sweet and wholesome. 
 This settles the question that these branches of the river do 
 not take their rise in salt plains, as has heretofore been very 
 generally supposed. On the contrary, at their sources, w T hich 
 are in the eastern borders of the "Llano estacado," the water 
 is as pure and wholesome as can be desired. And this char- 
 acter continues upon all the confluents until they enter the 
 gypsum formation, when they become impregnated with salts, 
 
46 DISTRIBUTION OF RAIN. 
 
 that impart a new character to the water, which continues to 
 its junction with the Mississippi. 
 
 A solitary cotton-wood, with an occasional clump of wil- 
 lows, constitute the sylva of this portion of the river. The 
 soil in the valley is an arenaceous fed alluvium, and would 
 be productive with the aid of artificial irrigation. 
 
 The bluffs bordering the valley are, at this place, about 
 one hundred feet high, and composed of a deep red clay, 
 overlaid with a stratum of drift ; and this surmounted with a 
 capping of calcareous sandstone from five to fifteen feet thick. 
 
 Upon the rocky bluffs bordering the river we found silici- 
 fied wood in great quantities, strewed about over a distance 
 of two miles." The petrifaction was most perfect, exhibiting 
 all the fibres, knots, and bark, as plainly as in the native 
 state, and was quite similar to the cotton-wocd. 
 
 This evening we have another rain coming from the north- 
 west, which will increase our chances for finding water in act- 
 Vance. 
 
 As it will be seen by a reference to the meteorological ta- 
 bles, our barometer has, in almost every instance, been a 
 certain index to the weather from the commencement of the 
 march. Sometimes, indeed, it has exhibited a most extraor- 
 dinary depression of the mercury for two or three days pre- 
 vious to a storm; but in no instance has it failed to rain be- 
 fore the instrument will resume its usual range. 
 
 During the last three summers which I have spent upon 
 the plains, as has been before observed, I have seen no rain 
 of consequence from the about the middle of May to the 
 middle of August. And after passing west beyond the 
 ninety-ninth degree of longitude, there has been but very 
 little dew during the same period. The water in most of the 
 streams was, at the same time, absorbed by the parched and 
 porous soil over which it passed, and vegetation suffered 
 much from the drought. 
 
 On the contrary, we have this season been favored with 
 frequent and copious rains, and heavy dews. The streams 
 have everywhere furnished a plentiful supply of good water, 
 and the whole face of the prairies has been cheered with a 
 rich and verdant vegetation. Near the place where we have 
 pitched our tents this evening is an old Indian encampment, 
 where John Bushman, our Delaware interpreter, has discov- 
 ered that a battle has been fought within the past two months. 
 The evidences of this are apparent from the fact that the re- 
 mains of a large fire were found, upon which the victorious 
 
KlOWAY INDIANS. 47 
 
 parly had piled up and burned the lodges and effects of the 
 Vanquished. Pieces of the lodge-poles, and a quantity of 
 fused glass beads, v/ith small pieces of iron and other articles 
 pertaining to their domestic economy, which had partially 
 escaped the conflagration, were found scattered about the en- 
 campment. The number of lodge-fires indicated that the 
 vanquished party was small. 
 
 The trail of a large party of Kioways, travelling to the 
 north just before the last rain, has been seen to-day ; and we 
 are continually meeting with evidences of their having fre- 
 quently resorted to this branch of the river. Their old camp- 
 ing places and their trails are seen almost every day. They 
 are probably at this time north of the Candian, with the buf- 
 faloes ; but are attracted to the waters of Red river in the au- 
 tumn and winter, where the exuberant and rich grama grasses 
 which everywhere abound in the river bottoms afford the 
 finest pasturage to their numerous animals. 
 
 We have been gradually and regularly ascending in our 
 progress westward, Until now our approximate elevation 
 above the sea, as indicated by the barometer, is two thousand 
 seven hundred and two feet. 
 
 Our route to-day along the river valley has been populous 
 with prairie dogs, their towns occupying almost the entire val- 
 ley of the river. I was anxious to obtain a good specimen, 
 and killed several of the largest I could find ; but my rifle- 
 ball mutilated them so milch, that we did not think them 
 worth preserving. 
 
 Our hunters brought in two deer and a turkey this eve- 
 ning, and their auxiliaries, the greyhounds, have added an- 
 other deer to the list. 
 
 June 23. — This morning being dark, cloudy, and threaten- 
 ing rain, we did not leave camp until a late hour, when we 
 continued our march down the left bank of the river tor some 
 four or five miles, directly at the base of the lofty escarpments 
 of red clay and sandstone which terminate the valley upon 
 the north side. 
 
 Soon after we started it commenced raining violently, and 
 has continued incessantly throughout the day. It has raised 
 the water in the river about twelve inches, so that now the 
 entire bed is covered. In consequence of the rain we made 
 an early encampment upon the south bank of the river. 
 
 The country upon each side of the river along where we 
 have passed to-day has been much broken up into deep 
 gorges and precipitous ridges, which are wholly impassable 
 
48 HEALTH OF THE ANIMALS. 
 
 for wagons ; and the features of the country adjoining have 
 assumed a desert character. With the exception of a narrow- 
 strip of land forming the river bottom, no arable soil can be 
 seen, and no timber is found except a few stunted cotton- 
 woods directly upon the river banks. Several varieties of the 
 wild sensitive plant, and especially the Schrankia angustata, 
 are found everywhere throughout this section, and the atmo- 
 sphere is redolent with the delightful perfume which is emit- 
 ted from their blossoms. 
 
 Having traced this branch of the river to its source, and 
 satisfied myself, from the portion that we have passed over, 
 as to its general physical and topographical features, I have 
 resolved to leave it at this point, and taking a southerly 
 course, shall endeavor to make our w,ay to the south branch 
 of the river. I think the remainder of the time we have at 
 our disposal can be more profitably occupied in exploring the 
 country along the borders of that stream than in any other 
 way. 
 
 We shall set out with a supply of water and wood suffi- 
 cient for three days ; and we hope, before that time expires 
 to find ourselves upon the waters of the south branch. Our 
 animals that were poor when we left the settlements, are at 
 this time in most excellent condition; and if we continue to 
 find water and grass as abundant as we have done, we shall 
 take them home in much better plight than they were at the 
 commencement of our journey. 
 
 Thus far we have been most singularly fortunate in not 
 losing even an animal by death or straying away ; and, in- 
 deed, we have been much favored in every respect. The 
 command have generally been in fine health and spirits, and 
 with the exception of two cases of scurvy that originated be- 
 fore our departure from Fort Belknap, we have had no sick- 
 ness worth mentioning. 
 
 June 24. — We were in motion at a very early hour this 
 morning, and taking a southerly course directly at right an- 
 gles to the river, we soon became involved in a labyrinth of 
 barren sand hills, in which we travelled some fourteen miles 
 before we emerged upon a high ridge, from which, in the dis- 
 tance, we could discern through the dim and murky atmo- 
 sphere a very broad valley, through which we supposed the 
 south branch to flow. 
 
 The bare and hot sand over which we had just passed was 
 in strong contrast with the refreshing verdure of the valley 
 before us. After travelling a few miles down the south slope 
 
STAKED PLAIN. 49 
 
 of the divide, we encamped upon a small branch, where we 
 found good water and grass, with a few cotton-wood trees, 
 which furnished us with fuel. 
 
 The geological formation upon the bluffs bordering this 
 stream is a friable red sandstone, overlaid with a stratum of 
 coarse gypsum, with a subjacent stratum of bright red clay, 
 interstratified with seams of gypsum. The soil since we left 
 the sand-hills has been good, probably owing to the fertilizing 
 properties of the gypsum. 
 
 June 25. — The atmosphere this morning was clear, cool, 
 and bracing, with a north-northeasterly wind ; the thermome- 
 ter at 3 a. m. standing at 69°. The sky at sunrise was 
 cloudless, and the sun shone brilliantly upon some elevated 
 white bluffs which we could see in the distance, and supposed 
 to be upon the border of the valley of the south fork of Red 
 river. 
 
 At an early hour we resumed our march down the creek for 
 about three miles, when we crossed another large stream with 
 clear running water, and taking a circuitous course among the 
 rough and broken hills bordering it, we made fifteen miles, 
 encamping upon a branch where we found water standing in 
 pools-. 
 
 Our course to-day has led us through a formation of sul- 
 phate and carbonate of lime, which in some places appeared 
 to be decomposed and covered the earth in a powdered state 
 to the depth of three inches. Several fossil shells belonging 
 to the cretaceous system were found to-day ; they were much 
 rounded fey attrition, and probably have been transported here 
 from a distance by water. 
 
 June 26. — We were in motion at the usual time this morn- 
 ing, and turning our course up the , river over a very broken 
 and elevated country, travelled ten miles, when we encamped 
 upon a large branch of the south fork which enters from the 
 north. It is fifty yards wide, with a sandy bed, and at this 
 time contains but little water. The white escarpment of the 
 Staked Plain has been in sight for the last two days in front 
 and on the right of us. It seems to be very much elevated 
 above the adjoining country, with almost vertical sides, cov- 
 ered with a scrubby growth of dwarf cedars, and from the 
 summit the country spreads out into a perfectly level plain, 
 ©r mesa, as far as the eye can penetrate. 
 
 The stream upon which we are encamped, like the other 
 branches of Red river, takes its rise in the borders of this 
 plain, and for several miles from its source there are numer- 
 
50 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS. 
 
 ous branches issuing from deep canons, with perpendicular 
 sides, which continue until they debouch into the more rolling 
 country below, where the banks become low, and the bed 
 broad and sandy. 
 
 The geological features of the country upon the head of this 
 branch are characterized by a different formation from that 
 upon the other branches we have seen, inasmuch as we here 
 find the gypsum extending to the very sources, and the water 
 having the peculiar taste imparted by that mineral throughout 
 its entire course. 
 
 Oar road during the whole day has passed through a con- 
 tinuous dog-town, (Spermophilus ludovicianus,) and we were 
 often obliged to turn out of our course to avoid the little 
 mounds around their burrows. 
 
 In passing along through these villages the little animals 
 are seen in countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of 
 their domicils, presenting much the appearance of stumps of 
 small trees ; and so incessant is the clatter of their barking, 
 that it requires but little effort of the imagination to fancy 
 oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city. 
 
 The immense number of animals in some of these towns., 
 or warrens, may be conjectured from the large space which 
 they sometimes cover. The one at this place is about twenty- 
 five miles in the direction through which we have passed it. 
 Supposing its dimensions in other directions to be the same, it 
 would embrace an area of six hundred and twenty-five square 
 miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres. Esti- 
 mating the holes to be at the usual distances of about twenty 
 yards apart, and each burrow occupied by a family of four or 
 five dogs, I fancy that the aggregate population would be 
 greater than any other city in the universe. 
 
 This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mam- 
 malia of our country, which is found assembled in such vast 
 communities, is indigenous to the most of our far western 
 prairies, from Mexico to the northern limits of the United 
 States, and has often been described by travellers who have 
 been upon the plains. But as there are some facts in relation 
 to their habits which I have never seen mentioned in any pub- 
 lished account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a 
 few remarks to what has already been said. In the selection 
 of a site or position for their towns they appear to have a re- 
 gard to their food, which is a species of short wiry grass, 
 growing upon the elevated plains, where there is often no 
 water near. I have sometimes seen their towns upon the 
 
ASSOCIATES OF THE PRAIRIE-DOGS. 51 
 
 elevated table lands of New Mexico, where there was no wa- 
 ter upon the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where 
 it did not seem probable that it could be obtained by excava- 
 ting to the depth of a hundred feet. This has induced me to 
 believe that they do not require that element without which 
 most other animals perish in a short time. 
 
 As there are generally no rains or clews during the summer 
 months upon the plains where these towns are found, and as 
 the animals never wander far from home, I think I am war- 
 ranted in coming to the conclusion that they require no water 
 beyond that which the grass affords them. That they Iryber- 
 nate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid state is evi- 
 dent, from the fact that they lay up no sustenance for the 
 winter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the* 
 autumn, the earth freezes hard, and renders it utterly impos- 
 sible for them to procure food in the usual manner. 
 
 When the prairie-dog first feels the approach of the sleep- 
 ing season, (generally about the last days of October,) he 
 closes all the passages to his dormitory to exclude the cold 
 air, and betakes himself • to his brumal slumber with the 
 greatest possible care. He remains housed until the warm 
 days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his 
 door, and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever. 
 
 I have been informed by the Indians, that a short time 
 before a cold storm in the autumn, all the prairie-dogs may 
 be seen industriously occupied with weeds and earth closing 
 the entrances to their burrows. They are sometimes, how- 
 ever, seen reopening them while the weather is still cold and 
 stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to 
 follow. 
 
 It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quad- 
 rupeds when to expect good or bad weather, and to make 
 their arrangements accordingly. A species of small owl is 
 always found in the dog towns, sitting at the mouths of the 
 holes when not occupied by the dogs ; whether for the pur- 
 pose of procuring food, or for some other object, I do not 
 know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, bur- 
 row with the dogs ; and when approached, instead of enter- 
 ing the holes, they invariably fly away. It has also been 
 said that the rattlesnake is a constant companion of the dog ; 
 but this is a mistake, for I have sometimes passed for days 
 through the towns without seeing one. They are, however, 
 often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it has 
 been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with 
 
52 RATTLESNAKES. 
 
 the proprietors of the establishments ; but we have satisfied 
 ourselves that this is a domestic arrangement entirely at 
 variance with the wishes of the dogs, as the snakes prey 
 upon them, and must be considered as intruders. They are 
 probably attracted to the burrows for the purpose of procur- 
 ing food, as one snake which we killed was found to have 
 swallowed a full-grown dog» 
 
KE-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 53 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Arrive at main South Fork — Panther killed — Bitter water — Intense thirst — 
 Head spring — Bears abundant — Departure down the river. 
 
 June 27. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled 
 down the river for five miles, when we crossed and resumed 
 the south course over high rolling lands, much broken up on 
 each side into numerous deep defiles and rugged cliffs, run- 
 ning towards the main river. 
 
 Directly in front of us lay the high table lands of the 
 " Llano estacado," towering up some eight hundred feet 
 above the surrounding county, and bordered by precipitous 
 escarpments capped with a stratum of white gypsum, which 
 glistened in the sun like burnished silver. After travelling 
 fourteen miles, we reached the valley of the principal branch 
 of the river. 
 
 It was here nine hundred yards wide, flowing over a very 
 sand}'- bed, with but little water in the channel, and is fortified 
 upon each side by rugged hills and deep gullies, over which 
 I think it will be impossible to take our train. The soil 
 throughout this section is a light ferruginous clay, with no 
 limber except a few hackberry and cotton-wood trees upon 
 the banks of the streams. There is but little water either in 
 the river or in the creeks, and in a dry season I doubt if there 
 would be any found here. 
 
 Our route to-day has continued to lead us through dog towns, 
 and it is probable that the fact of their being so abundant here 
 has suggested the name which the Comanches have applied 
 to this branch of Red river, of " Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no," or 
 " Prairie-dog-town river." 
 
 We were so unfortunate yesterday as to lose an excellent 
 bear-dog which a gentleman in Arkansas had taken great pains 
 to procure for me. I regret this very much, as we are now 
 coming into a country where we shall probably find these ani- 
 mals abundant, and it is difficult to hunt them without a good 
 dog, trained for the purpose. 
 
 Our hunters killed two antelopes to-day. We have seen 
 but few deer, however, and no turkeys, during the last week. 
 
54 GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 
 
 We occasionally see the pinnated grouse and the quail ; as 
 also the meadow-lark, which I have found in all places 
 wherever I have travelled. 
 
 June 28. — On leaving our encampment of last night, we 
 took a southwesterly course for the eastern extremity of the 
 white-capped bluffs which have been so long in sight, and 
 which border the great plain of the " Llano estacado" upon 
 the river valley. 
 
 After marching eight miles over a succession of very rugged 
 hills and valleys, which rise as they recede from the river, 
 we reached the base of these towering and majestic cliffs, 
 which rise almost perpendicularly from the undulating swells 
 of prairie at the base, to the height of eight hundred feet, and 
 terminate at the summit in a plateau almost as level as the 
 sea, which spreads out to the south and west like the steppes 
 of Central Asia, in an apparently illimitable desert. 
 
 I supposed, from the appearance of the country at a dis- 
 tance, that I should be able to find a passage for the wagons 
 along at the foot of these cliffs ; but, upon a closer examination, 
 find the ground between them and the river so much cut up by- 
 abrupt ridges and deep glens, that it is wholly impracticable 
 to take our train any further up this branch of the river. We 
 have sought for a passage by which we might take the trains 
 to the top of the bluffs, where, as they run nearly parallel to 
 the course of the river, we might have continued on with the 
 wagons ; but, after making a careful examination, we have 
 abandoned the idea, not being able to discover a place where 
 we could even take our horses up the steep sides of the preci- 
 pice. 
 
 The geological formation of these bluffs is a red indurated 
 clay, resting upon a red sandstone, overlaid with a soft, dark- 
 gray sandstone, and the whole capped with a white calcareous 
 sandstone, the strata resting horizontally, and receding in ter- 
 races from the base to the summit. 
 
 As Capt. McClellan and myself were passing to-day along 
 under the bluffs, we saw in advance of us a herd of ante- 
 lopes quietly feeding among some mezquite trees, when the 
 idea occurred to me of attempting to call them with a deer- 
 bleat, which one of the Delawares had made for me. I ac- 
 cordingly advanced several hundred yards to near the crest 
 of a hill, from which I had a fair view of the animals, and, 
 very deliberately seating myself upon the ground, screened 
 from their observation by the tall grass around me, I took out 
 my bleat and commenced exercising my powers in imitating 
 
PANTHER KILLED. 55 
 
 the cry of the fawn. I soon succeeded in attracting their at- 
 tention, and in a short time decoyed one of the unsuspicious 
 animals within range of my rifle, which I raised to my shoul- 
 der, and, taking deliberate aim, was in the act of pulling trig- 
 ger, when my attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly 
 drawn aside by a rustling which I heard in the grass to my 
 left. Casting my eyes in that direction, to my no small aston- 
 ishment, I saw a tremendous panther bounding at full speed 
 directly towards me, and within the short distance of twenty 
 steps. As may be imagined, I immediately abandoned the 
 antelope, and, directing m.y rifle at the panther, sent a ball 
 through his chest, which stretched him out upon the grass 
 about ten yards from where I had taken my position. Im- 
 pressed with the belief that I had accomplished a feat of 
 rather more than ordinary importance in the sporting line, I 
 placed my hand to my mouth, ( u a la savage,") and gave 
 several as loud shouts of exultation as my weak lungs would 
 ■permit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to my feelings of 
 triumph upon the occasion, and also to call the Captain, whom 
 I had left some distance back with the horses. As he did not 
 bear me I went back for him, and on returning to the spot 
 where I had fired upon the panther, we discovered him upon 
 his feet making off. The Captain gave him another shot as 
 lie was running, and then closed in with his rifle clubbed, and 
 it required several vigorous blows, laid on in quick succes- 
 sion, to give him his quietus. 
 
 The panther had probably beard the bleat, and was coming 
 Cowards it with the pleasant anticipation of making his break- 
 fast from a tender fawn ; but fortunately for me, I disappointed 
 him. It occurred to me afterwards that it would not always 
 be consistent with. one r s safety to use the deer-bleat in this 
 wild country, unless we were perfectly certain we should 
 have our wits about us in the event of a panther or large bear 
 (which is often the case) taking it into his head to give cre- 
 dence to the counterfeit. This was a large specimen of the 
 Fells concolor, or North American congar, measuring eight 
 feet from his nose to the end of the tail. 
 
 Juue 29. — As we were unable to proceed further up this 
 branch of the river with the wagons, I concluded to leave the 
 main foody of the command under charge of Lieut. Upde- 
 graff', and, with Capt. McClellan and a small escort of ten 
 men, to push on end endeavor to reach the head spring of this 
 the principal branch of Red river. 
 
 Taking provisions for six days, packed upon mules, we went 
 
56 
 
 GYPSUM GROTTO. 
 
 forward this morning over a constant succession of steep, 
 rocky ridges, and deep ravines, in one of which we discovered 
 a grotto in the gypsum rocks, which appeared to have been 
 worn out by the continued action of water, leaving an arched 
 passway, the sides of which were perfectly smooth and sym- 
 metrical, and composed of" strata of three distinct bright colors 
 of green, pink, and white, arranged in such peculiar order as 
 to give it an appearance of singular beauty. On our arrival 
 here the men were much exhausted by rapid marching over 
 the rough ground, and were exceedingly thirsty. Fortunately 
 we found near the mouth of the grotto a spring of very cold 
 water bursting out of the rock ; and although it had the pe- 
 liar taste of the gypsum, yet they drank large quantities with- 
 out suffering from it.* Our animals and men being much 
 jaded from travelling over this rough and forbidding country, 
 we turned down towards the river after a short halt at the 
 grotto, and on reaching it found the water still very bitter and 
 unpalatable. As the day was very warm, (the thermometer 
 standing, at 12 o'clock m., at 104° Fahrenheit in the shade) 
 with no air stirring, the reflection of the sun's rays from the 
 
 * As this spring issued directly from the pure gypsum rock, I procured a spe- 
 cimen of the water, which has been analyzed under the direction of Professor 
 W. S. Clarke, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and may, I think, be re- 
 garded as containing those ingredients which communicate that peculiar disa- 
 greeable taste to all the water in this country that flows over a gypsum forma- 
 tion. The analysis resulted as follows : 
 
 Water in fluid ounces ................ 4. 
 
 "Water in fluid grammes. ......... 127.500 
 
 Hydrosulphuric acid present. .011 
 
 Chlorine. .014 
 
 Lime ............ .090 
 
 Sulphuric acid ... ... .227 
 
 Soda and magnesia, about. .130 
 
 These elements, united in the form of salts, would give the following results : 
 
 Weight of sulphate of lime.. ... .219 
 
 Weight of sulphate of magnesia. ...................... ..... .088 (?) 
 
 Weight of sulphate of soda.. ...... ......................... .073(?) 
 
 Weight of chloride of sodium.. .023 
 
 Weight of hydrosulphuric acid .011 
 
 Weight of the whole .414 
 
 Per-centage of matter in solution 0.8:2 
 
SUFFERING FROM THIRST. 0/ 
 
 white sand in the bed of the river made it exceedingly op- 
 pressive. 
 
 At sundown we bivouacked near a small pool of muddy 
 water, a little better than that in the river, but still very unpa- 
 latable. In despite of this, as we were suffering much from 
 the intense thirst caused by the heat of the day, and from 
 drinking the nauseating water we had met with upon the 
 march, we indulged freely ; but instead of allaying thirst it 
 only served to increase it. 
 
 The country over which we have passed to-day, upon both 
 sides of the river, has been cut up by numerous deep gorges 
 extending from the chain of mural escarpments that terminate 
 the " Llano estacado" to the river, and in many of these are 
 small streams of water which issue from springs in the rocky 
 sides of the gorges. We have met with no trees, except a 
 species of red cedar, Juniperus Virginia?ia, and a few lonely 
 cotton-woods. 
 
 The soil is sandy upon the ridges, with blue and red clay 
 in the valleys, and gypsum rocks predominate throughout the 
 formation. The high bluffs to the south of us have gradually 
 approached the river until, near our encampment, they are 
 only about two hundred yards distant. 
 
 June 30. — At daylight this morning we were in the 
 saddle, and, taking the bed of the river, set out at a brisk 
 pace, hoping to find some good water during the day. Our 
 course was very circuitous, from being obliged to follow 
 the windings made by the numerous detours in the river. 
 The lofty escarpments which bounded the valley upon each 
 side, rose precipitously from the banks of the river to the 
 enormous height of from five to eight hundred feet ; and in 
 many places there was not room for a man to pass between 
 the foot of the acclivities and the river. It was altogether 
 impossible to travel upon either side of the river, so much 
 broken and cut up was the ground; and the only place where 
 a passage for a horse can be found is directly along the defile 
 of the river bed. We found frequent small rivulets flowing 
 into the river through the deep glens upon each side ; but most 
 unfortunately for us, the water in them all was acid and nau- 
 seating. We made our noon halt at one of these streams, 
 after travelling fifteen miles over the burning sands of the 
 river bed. 
 
 At this time we had become so much affected by the fre- 
 quent and irresistible use of the water, that most of us expe- 
 rienced a constant burning pain in the stomach, attended with 
 
58 FORKS OF THE RIVER. 
 
 loss of appetite, and the most vehement and feverish thirst. 
 We endeavored to disguise the taste of the water by making, 
 coffee with it, but it retained the same disagreeable properties 
 in that form that it had in the natural state. 
 _ At four in the evening, we again pushed forward up the. 
 river, praying most devoutly that we might reach the termi- 
 nation of the gypsum formation before night, and that the 
 river, which was still of very considerable magnitude, would 
 branch out and soon come to a termination. 
 
 Four miles from our halting-place we passed a large 
 affluent coming in from the north, above which there was a 
 very perceptible diminution in the main stream ; and in going 
 a few miles further, we passed several more, causing a still 
 greater contraction in its dimensions. All these affluents 
 were similar in character to the parent stream, bordered with 
 lofty and precipitous bluffs, with gypsum veins running 
 through them similar to those upon the main river. 
 
 Towards evening we arrived at a point where the river di- 
 vided into two forks, of about equal dimensions. We fol- 
 lowed the left, which appeared somewhat the largest, and 
 here found the bluffs receding several hundred yards from the 
 banks upon each side, leaving a very beautiful and quiet 
 little nook, wholly unlike the stern grandeur of the rugged 
 defile through which we had been passing. This glen was 
 covered with a rich carpet of verdure, and embowered with 
 the foliage of the graceful china and aspen, and its rural and 
 witching loveliness gladdened our hearts and refreshed our 
 eyes, long fatigued with gazing upon frowning crags and deep, 
 shady ravines. 
 
 After travelling twenty-five miles, we encamped upon the 
 main river, which had now become reduced to one hundred 
 feet in width, and flowed rapidly over a sandy bed. 
 
 Although we were suffering most acutely from the effects 
 of the nauseating and repulsive water in the river, yet we 
 were still under the painful necessity o*f using it. Several of 
 the men had been taken with violent cramps in the stomach 
 and vomiting, yet they did not murmur ; on the contrary, they 
 were cheerful, and indulged in frequent jokes at the expense 
 of those who were sick. The principal topic of conversation 
 with them seemed to be a discussion of the relative merits of 
 the different kinds of fancy iced drinks which could be pro- 
 cured in the cities, and the prices that could be obtained for 
 some of them if they were within reach of our party. In- 
 deed, it seems to me that we were not entirely exempt from 
 
FRESH WATER. 59 
 
 the agitation of a similar subject ; and from the drift of the 
 argument, I have no doubt that a moderate quantity of Croton 
 water, cooled with Boston ice, would have met with as ready 
 a sale in our little mess as in almost any market that could 
 have been found. If I mistake not, one of the gentlemen of- 
 fered as high as two thousand dollars for a single bucket of 
 the pure element ; but this was one of those few instances in 
 which money was not sufficiently potent to obtain the object 
 desired. 
 
 We laid ourselves down upon our blankets and endeavored 
 to obliterate the sensation of thirst in the embraces of Mor- 
 pheus ; but so far as I was concerned, my slumbers were 
 continually disturbed by dreams, in which I fancied myself 
 swallowing huge draughts of ice-water. 
 
 July 1. — We saddled up at a very early hour this morning, 
 and proceeded on up the river for several miles, when we 
 found a large affluent putting in from the north ; and after 
 travelling a few miles further, we passed many more small 
 tributaries, which caused the main stream to contract into the 
 narrow channel of only twenty feet ; and its bed, which from 
 its confluence with the Mississippi to this place (with the ex- 
 ception of a ridge of rocks which crosses it near Jonesbo- 
 rough, in Texas) had been sand, suddenly changed to rock, 
 with the water, which before had been turbid, flowing clear 
 and rapidly over it ; and, much to our delight, it was en- 
 tirely free from salts. This was certainly an unlooked-for 
 luxury, as we had everywhere before this found it exceedingly 
 unpalatable. As I before observed, the effect of this water 
 upon us had been to produce sickness at the stomach, attended 
 with loss of appetite, and a most raging and feverish thirst, 
 which constantly impelled us to drink it, although it had a 
 contrary effect upon us from what we desired, increasing 
 rather than allaying thirst. 
 
 After undergoing the most intense sufferings from drinking 
 this nauseating fluid, we indulged freely in the pure and deli- 
 cious element as we ascended along the narrow dell through 
 which the stream found its way. And following up for two 
 miles the tortuous course of the gorge, we reached a point 
 where it became so much obstructed with huge piles of rock, 
 that we were obliged to leave our animals and clamber up 
 the remainder of the distance on foot. 
 
 The gigantic escarpments of sandstone, rising to the giddy 
 height of eight hundred feet upon each side, gradually closed 
 in until they were only a few yards apart, and finally united 
 
OU HEAD OF RED RIVER. 
 
 over head, leaving a long, narrow corridor beneath, at the 
 base of which the head spring of the principal or main branch 
 of Red river takes its rise. This spring bursts out from its 
 cavernous reservoir, and, leaping down over the huge masses 
 of rock below, here commences its long journey to unite with 
 other tributaries in making the Mississippi the noblest river in 
 the universe. Directly at the spring we found three small 
 cotton-wood trees, one of which was blazed, and the fact of 
 our having visited the place, with the date, marked upon it. 
 
 On beholding this minute rivulet as it wends its tortuous 
 course down the steep descent of the canon, it is difficult to 
 realize that it forms the germ of one of the largest and most 
 important rivers in America ; floating steamers upon its 
 bosom for nearly two thousand miles, and depositing an allu- 
 vion along its borders which renders its valley unsurpassed 
 for fertility. 
 
 We took many copious draughts of the cool and refreshing 
 water in the spring, and thereby considered ourselves, with 
 the pleasure we received from the beautiful and majestic 
 scenery around us, amply remunerated for all our fatigue and 
 privations. The magnificence of the views that presented 
 themselves to our eyes as we approached the head of the 
 river, exceeded anything I had ever beheld. It is impossible 
 for me to describe the sensations that came over me, and the 
 exquisite pleasure I experienced, as I gazed upon these grand 
 and novel pictures. 
 
 The stupendous escarpments of solid rock, rising precipi- 
 tously from the bed of the river to such a height as, for a 
 great portion of the da} r , to exclude the rays of the sun, were 
 worn away, by the lapse of time and the action of the water 
 and the weather, into the most fantastic forms, that required 
 but little effort of the imagination to convert into works of art, 
 and all united in forming one of the grandest and most pictu- 
 resque scenes that can be imagined. We all, with one ac- 
 cord, stopped and gazed with wonder and admiration upon a 
 panorama which was now for the first time exhibited to the 
 eyes of civilized man. Occasionally might be seen a good 
 representation of the towering walls of a castle of the feudal 
 ages, with its giddy battlements pierced with loopholes, and 
 its projecting watch-towers standing out in bold relief upon 
 the azure ground of the pure and transparent sky above. In 
 other places our fancy would metamorphose the escarpments 
 into a bastion front, as perfectly modelled and constructed as 
 if it had been a production of the genius of Vauban, with re- 
 
LLANO ESTACAD0. 61- 
 
 doubts and salient angles all arranged in due order. Then, 
 again, we would see a colossal specimen of sculpture repre- 
 senting the human figure, with all the features of the face* 
 which, standing upon its lofty pedestal, overlooks the valley r 
 and seems to have been designed and executed by the Al- 
 mighty artist as the presiding genius of these dismal solitudes* 
 
 All here was crude nature, as it sprang into existence at 
 the fiat of the Almighty architect of the universe, still pre- 
 serving its primeval type, its unreclaimed sublimity and wild- 
 ness ; and it forcibly inspired me with that veneration which 
 is justly due to the high antiquity of nature's handiworks, and 
 which seems to increase as we consider the solemn and im- 
 portant lesson that is taught us in reflecting upon their con- 
 tinued permanence when contrasted with our own fleeting 
 and momentary existence. 
 
 On climbing up to the summit of the escarpment over the 
 head of the spring, we found ourselves upon the level plain of 
 the " Llano estacado," which spreads out from here in one 
 uninterrupted desert, to the base of the mountains east of the 
 Rio Grande. The geographical position of this point, as de- 
 termined by courses and distances from the place where we 
 left the wagons, is in latitude 34° 42' north, and longitude 
 103° 7' 11" west ; and its approximate elevation above the 
 sea, as determined by frequent and careful barometric obser- 
 vations, is 2,450 feet. 
 
 The geological formation is different here from what it is 
 below, inasmuch as we find no gypsum ; and the moment we 
 passed this mineral, (which was only about two miles before 
 we reached the head of the river,) the water became at once 
 sweet and good. 
 
 We have seen numerous bear tracks within the past two 
 days ; and occasionally the animals themselves, two of which 
 we killed. Several that we saw, however, escaped ; and we 
 had frequent occasions to regret the loss of our bear-dog, as 
 we might have killed many more with his assistance. 
 
 John Bull, who still continued to ride the same fractious 
 horse which he had in the buffalo hunt, made a brush with a 
 large bear to-day, but did not succeed in getting alongside of 
 him, as the horse became perfectly mad and unmanageable 
 the moment he got sight of the bear. This is often the case ; 
 and there are but few horses that can be made to approach 
 one of these animals. 
 
 Several anecdotes, which were related to me by our guide? 
 concerning the habits of the black bear, would seem to entitle 
 
XJ4 instincts of the bear. 
 
 bim to a higher position in the scale of animal instinct and 
 sagacity than that of almost any other quadruped. For in- 
 stance, he says that before making his bed to lie down, the 
 animal invariably goes several hundred yards with the wind, 
 at a distance from his track. Should an enemy now come 
 upon his track, he must approach him with the wind ; and 
 with the bear's keen sense of smell, he is almost certain to be 
 made aware of his presence, and has time to escape before 
 he is himself seen. 
 
 He also states that when pursued, the bear sometimes takes 
 refuge in caves in the earth or rocks, where the hunter often 
 endeavors, by making a smoke at the entrance, to force him 
 out j but it not unfrequently happens, that instead of coming 
 out? when the smoke becomes too oppressive, he very delibe- 
 rately advances to the fire, and with his fore feet beats upon 
 it until it is extinguished, then retreats into the cave. This 
 he assured me he had often seen. Although these statements 
 would seem to endow bruin with something more than mere 
 animal instinct, and evince a conception of the connexion 
 between cause and effect, yet another anecdote which was 
 related to me would go to prove this curious quadruped one of 
 the most stupid fellows in the brute creation. 
 
 My informant says, that when the bear cannot be driven 
 out the cave by smoke, it sometimes becomes necessary for 
 the hunter to take his rifle, and with a torch to enter the cavern 
 in search of him. One would suppose this a very hazardous 
 undertaking, and that the animal would soon eject the pre- 
 sumptuous intruder ; but, on the contrary, as soon as he sees 
 the light approaching, he sits upright on his haunches, and 
 with his fore paws covers his face and eyes, and remains in 
 this position until the light is removed. Thus the hunter is 
 enable to approach as close as he desires without danger, and 
 taking deadly aim with his faithful rifle, poor bruin is slain. 
 These facts have been stated to me by three different Indians, 
 ,in whose veracity I have much confidence, and I have no 
 doubt are strictly true. The black bear is generally harmless 
 unless wounded, or when accompanied by its young, when I 
 have known one of them to pursue a man on horsebak 
 several hundred yards in the most furious mood, snapping 
 continually at the legs of the horse. 
 
 July 3.— -We reached camp to-day from the head of the 
 river, having returned over the same route that we ascended, 
 and found all anxiously awaiting us. From this point to the 
 head of the river is sixty-five miles, and for about sixty miles 
 
HOMEWARD MARCH. 63 
 
 of this distance the river runs through a deep defile, the 
 escarpments of which rise from five to eight hundred feet 
 upon each side, and in many places they approach so near 
 the water's edge that there is not room for a man to pass, and 
 it is often necessary to travel for several miles in the bed of 
 the river before a place is found where a horse can clamber 
 up the precipitous sides of the chasm. 
 
 I could not determine in my own mind whether this remark- 
 able defile had been formed, after a long lapse of time, by 
 the continued action of the current, or had been produced 
 by some great convulsion of nature : perhaps both causes 
 have contributed to its formation, some convulsive operation 
 having first given birth to an extensive fissure, and the 
 ceaseless action of the stream having afterwards reduced it 
 to its present condition. 9 
 
 A gentleman who is travelling with us, and who was attached 
 as a captain to Col. McLeod's expedition to Santa Fe, so 
 graphically described by Mr. Kendall, recognized a point, 
 near the head of the river, where his command passed. He 
 is of the opinion that the river which they ascended, and sup- 
 posed at the time to be the principal branch of Red river, 
 must have been the Big Witchita, and they probably passed 
 entirely to the south of the main branch of the river. The 
 fact that they were for a long time upon the plains of the 
 "Llano estacado" would go to confirm this supposition, as 
 anywhere to the north of this stream they would not have 
 encountered much of it. 
 
 July 4.— This morning at an early hour we turned our faces 
 towards home, and travelled about five miles down the right 
 bank of the river, when we discovered that the country in 
 advance upon that side was so much broken into deep gullies 
 and abrupt ridges that it would be impracticable to get our 
 wagons over them. We therefore crossed to the north side of 
 the river, where we found a most excellent road over smooth 
 prairie. At our present position we have a pond of excellent 
 water, with an abundance of hackberry and cotton-wood for 
 fuel. On approaching the pond, Capt. McClellan and my- 
 self, who were in advance of the command, espied a huge 
 panther very leisurely walking away in an opposite direc- 
 tion ; and as, in hunter's parlance, we " had the wind of him," 
 it enabled us to ride sufficiently near to give him a shot 
 before he discovered us. It took effect and caused him to make 
 a tremenduous leap into the air, and, running a short distance, 
 he fell dead. We have also killed four deer to-day, which 
 
84 BOG-TOWN. 
 
 supplies us with an abundance of fresh meat. Some of the 
 bucks are now very fat, and the venison is superior to any 
 I have ever eaten. 
 
 The pond of water at our camp is a very peculiar and 
 strange freak of nature. It is almost round, two hundred and 
 fifty feet in diameter, with the water thirty feet deep, and per- 
 fectly transparent and sweet. The surface of the water in 
 this basin is about twenty feet below the banks, and the sides 
 of the depression nearly perpendicular. The country for two 
 or three miles around, in all directions, rises to the height of 
 from one to two hundred feet. As this pond seems to be sup- 
 plied by springs, and has no visible outlet, it occurred to me 
 that there might possibly be a subterraneous communication 
 which carried off the surplus water and the earth from the 
 depression of the basin. 
 
 July o.' — -We were in motion this morning at 2 o'clock, 
 keeping down the left bank of the river, in an easterly course 
 over a firm and smooth road for sixteen miles, when we found 
 ourselves upon a small running creek, the w~ater of which was 
 strongly charged with salts ; but as we had filled our casks 
 at the pond we did not suffer. 
 
 We are encamped near a conical-shaped mound, flat upon 
 the top, and are about three miles from the main river. 
 
 We find much more mezquite timber upon this branch of 
 the river than upon the other. Indeed, I have never seen 
 much of this wood above the thirty-sixth degree of north lat- 
 itude ; but south of this it appears to increase in quantity and 
 size as far as the twenty-eighth degree. Upon the Canadian 
 river I have observed a few small bushes ; but the climate in 
 that latitude appears too cold for it to flourish well. 
 
 The soil here is sandy, with but little water, and that for 
 the most part of a quality unfit for use. The grama and 
 mezquite grasses are abundant. Our route for the last fifty 
 miles has carried us through an almost continuous dog-town, 
 but as yet we have not been able to secure a live specimen. 
 The latitude at this point is 34° 8' 30". 
 
 July 6.— Our wagons were packed, and we were en route 
 before 3 o'clock this morning, but were obliged to deviate 
 from our course very considerably to pass around some deep 
 ravines that extended back to near the crest of the ridge, 
 dividing the middle from the south fork. In this route we 
 traversed a very smooth and elevated rolling prairie, from 
 which we frequently obtained views of the valleys of both 
 branches of the river. 
 
MULBERRY CREEK. 65 
 
 The grama grass, which appears to flourish in this section, 
 Is now in process of heading, and will soon be matured.* 
 This most excellent forage for animals does not ripen until 
 quite late in the season, and remains green during most of the 
 winter. I have observed it Growing in about the same latitudes 
 as the mezquite trees ; but it is most abundant in New Mex- 
 ico, where it is the predominating grass of the country. 
 
 As I was riding at a distance from the train to-day, I saw- 
 three Indians, but they immediately passed out of view in 
 a ravine, and were not observed again. 
 
 We are encamped this evening upon a very clear and 
 rapid brook ; but the water, unfortunately, has the character- 
 istic taste of the gypsum. 
 
 There is capital grass upon the creek, and large cotton- 
 wood and hackberry, with a few mulberry trees, which, being 
 the first we have seen for several weeks, has suggested a 
 name for the stream — "Mulberry creek." 
 
 July 7. — We left camp at 2 o'clock this morning, and con- 
 tinued on for three miles over the same description of coun- 
 try as that we passed yesterday, when we arrived at a swift- 
 running creek, twenty-five feet wide and eight inches deep, 
 of clear, cold water ; but, as usual, upon tasting it, found it 
 unpalatable. After passing this creek our course was nearly 
 parallel to ihe river, and from four to twelve miles distant. 
 
 The gypsum formation characterizes this section, and has 
 continued from near the head of the river to this plnce ; but 
 as it imparts to the water such disagreeable qualities, we 
 earnestly desire to see no more of it. 
 
 * Two varieties of grama grass-seed ( Chondrosium foeneum and .Jltlieropogon 
 digostachyum) were collected and disposed of in the manner mentioned in the 
 following letter t 
 
 U. S. Patent Office, 
 
 November 12, 1852. 
 
 Sir : The two packages of grama grass-seed from near the sources of Red 
 river, forwarded by you to this office, have been received, and you are requested 
 to accept the thanks of the office for the same. They have already been dis- 
 tributed, in conformity with your suggestion, to gentlemen in the States of Vir- 
 ginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Louisiana. 
 Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
 
 S. H. HODGES 
 Capt. R. B. Marct 5 New York, 
 
bb COLLECTION OF REPTILES. 
 
 One of our Delawares killed a very large wild cat (Lyncm 
 rufus) to-day, the skin of which we have preserved. 
 
 Our collection of reptiles increases very rapidly, and we 
 now have upwards of a hundred specimens, many of them 
 very beautiful and interesting. Our herbarium is also enlarg- 
 ing daily, and we already have a large collection. 
 
ANTELOPES AND DEER. 67 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Antelope and Deer — Witchita Mountains in sight — Reach Buffalo Creek — 
 Valley of Otter Creek — Salubrity of Climate — Deer Bleat — Horse Flies — 
 Scurvey — Witchita Mountains — Pass through the Mountains — Buffalo seen. 
 
 July 8. — -Our train was again in motion at 2 o'clock this 
 morning, and our road led us over very elevated table lands, 
 near the dividing ridge of the two branches of the river, where 
 the country is totally destitute of wood or water, and alto- 
 gether devoid of interest until reaching this place, where we 
 find a few small ponds of wretched water and a clump of 
 trees. 
 
 In addition to four deer and two antelopes that have been 
 killed by our party to-day, our greyhounds have contributed 
 another deer to our larder. 
 
 We have bad several good opportunities since we have 
 been upon the plains of witnessing the relative speed of the 
 different animals found here, and our observations have con- 
 firmed the opinion I have before advanced. For example, 
 the grevhounds have, upon several different occasions, run 
 down and captured the deer and the prairie rabbits, which are 
 also considered very fleet ; but although they have had very 
 many races with the antelope under favorable circumstances, 
 yet they have never, in one instance, been able to overtake 
 them ; on the contrary, the longer the chase has continued 
 the greater has been the distance between them. The Cer- 
 mis Virginianus (our red deer) has generally been considered 
 the fleetest animal upon the continent after the horse, but the 
 Antibcapra Americana, or prong-horned antelope of the plains. 
 is very much swifter. 
 
 One of our hunters, who has been in advance of our camp. 
 says he obtained a distant view of the Witchita mountains, 
 and that "he has also discovered several telegraphic smokes 
 in a northeasterly direction. 
 
 July 9. — -Getting under way at 2 o'clock this morning, we 
 journeyed over the elevated prairie in a northeast course to- 
 wards the dividing ridge, and, on coming upon the crest of. 
 this elevation, some of the most lofty peaks at the western 
 
DO DEER KfJLLED. 
 
 extremity of the Witchita chain of mountains showed them- 
 selves in the distance, like smoky clouds against the back- 
 ground of the murky sky near the horizon. Crossing over the 
 ridge, we made for the head of a creek, where we expected 
 to find good water, but upon reaching it we found the gyp- 
 sum rocks, and, as usual, the water exceedingly bitter and 
 wholly unfit for use. After travelling down this creek for four 
 miles, we encamped at a small pond, containing a liquid which 
 we were obliged to make use of, but it had more the appear- 
 ance of the clrainings from a stable-yard than water. 
 
 We find more timber upon the borders of this stream than 
 we have seen since leaving Sweet-water creek ; it consists of 
 china, hackberry, cotton-wood, and mulberry. The grass is 
 luxuriant, and the vegetation of the valley has a smiling and 
 verdant aspect, that marks the fertility of the soil. 
 
 Four deer have been killed to-day — two of which I was 
 so fortunate as to add to my list : one was also caught by the 
 greyhounds. They have afforded us much and rare sport by 
 frequent chases, of which the smooth prairie has afforded us 
 a good view. 
 
 It is a most beautiful spectacle to mark the slender and 
 graceful figures of the hounds as they strain every muscle to 
 its utmost tension in their eager and rapid pursuit of the 
 panic-stricken deer. It is a contest between two of the 
 fleetest and most graceful and beautiful quadrupeds in exist- 
 ence : the one has his life at stake, and the other is animated 
 by all that eager enthusiasm which is characteristic of a tho- 
 rough-bred animal. They both put forth all the energies with 
 which the Author of their being has endowed them, and seem 
 to fly over the wavy undulations of the plains. Now they 
 are upon the summit of one of these swells, and the startled 
 animal has disappeared in an adjoining ravine, and for a mo- 
 ment the hounds are at fault ; but soon they espy him panting 
 up the opposite acclivity, when the}*" are off again like the 
 wind, in hot pursuit, and, rapidly closing upon their devoted 
 victim, they are soon engaged in the death-struggle. This 
 sport is most intensely exciting, and he who would not be- 
 come interested in it would hardly be entitled to claim con- 
 sanguinity with the great family of Nimrod. 
 
 The result of our observations for latitude at this position 
 is 34° 8' 11". 
 
 July 10. — As the country over which we had to pass this 
 morning was intersected by numerous abrupt ravines, we 
 were unable to leave camp until daylight. 
 
INDIAN SIGNS. 
 
 69 
 
 Our course led us over a high ridge, in an easterly direction 
 for several miles, when we arrived upon the banks of a deep 
 and rapid affluent of the main river, along which we travel- 
 led for two miles, encamping near a spring of cold, but 
 brackish water. 
 
 We have seen Indian-tracks to-day, made about three days 
 since, and are much astonished that they have not paid us a 
 visit, as some of the different parties we have passed must 
 have seen our trail. 
 
 The Witchita mountains have been in sight to the left all 
 day, and our present position is very nearly opposite the wes- 
 tern extremity of the chain. The variation of the magnetic 
 needle at this point is 10° 45' 30" east. 
 
 July 11. — Striking our tents at an early hour this morning, 
 we continued down the valley of the creek for ten miles, 
 when we turned to the north, and followed for several miles 
 a ridge dividing this from another stream, upon which we are 
 encamped. 
 
 The face of the country over which we are now journey- 
 ing is totally without interest, being arid, sterile, and flat, and 
 presenting no object upon which the eye can rest with 
 pleasure. 
 
 The stream at this place is thirty yards wide, two feet deep, 
 with a swift current, and the water brackish. Since we left 
 the head of the Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, we have found but three 
 places upon the route where the water has been entirely free 
 from salts, and at these places, with one exception, it has been 
 insipid, stagnant, and muddy ; yet our animals drink it and 
 appear fond of it. As yet, we have lost none of our stock 
 by death or straying. Our oxen, although they have per- 
 formed more labor than the mules, are in much better condi- 
 tion ; indeed, they have been constantly improving, while the 
 others have become somewhat poor and jaded. This goes to 
 confirm me in an opinion I had previously formed as to the 
 comparative powers of endurance of the two different kinds 
 of cattle for long journeys upon the plains. I have no hesita- 
 tion in expressing a decided opinion in favor of the oxen. 
 
 July 12. — As we anticipated a long march, reveille was 
 sounded at 1 o'clock this morning, and we were en route, at 2. 
 Taking a course north of east towards a mountain which we 
 recognised as being upon Beaver creek, we reached the con- 
 fluence of this stream with Red river at 9 o'clock, and cross- 
 ing a short distance above the junction, encamped in a bend 
 of the creek, where, to the supreme satisfaction of every one 
 
70 
 
 WOOD-LAND. 
 
 in the command, we once more found good running water, 
 and after being for so long a time deprived of it we enjoyed 
 it exceedingly. 
 
 When drinking the bad water upon the plains it has often 
 occurred to me that we do not sufficiently appreciate the 
 luxury of good water in those more favored parts of our 
 country, where it everywhere abounds in the greatest profu- 
 sion. The suffering produced by the absence of good water 
 in a journey on the plains during the heat of the summer 
 months is known only to those who have experienced it. As 
 we have now passed the gypsum range of country, we do 
 not anticipate any more difficulty in finding good water. 
 
 We shall remain at this place to-morrow, and on the day 
 following propose to ascend Otter creek to the mountains, 
 and passing down through the chain, shall make a careful and 
 thorough examination of the geological character of the for- 
 mation, and any other objects of interest that may present 
 themselves in our route. 
 
 Red river, above the mouth of Otter creek, which was at 
 a stage above fording when we passed up, is now only two 
 feet deep, and flows at the rate of about three miles per hour. 
 
 Fresh buffalo-tracks have been seen to-day, and six deer 
 and one turkey brought in by the hunters. 
 
 July 13. — This morning, for the first time in several weeks, 
 we have had a rain, which has refreshed and revivified the 
 whole face of the country. Previous to this the ground had 
 become so much parched from the lack of moisture that vege- 
 tation was suffering considerably. The herbage in the valley 
 of the creek appears to have felt the drought more than upon 
 the elevated prairies ; here it has put on a yellow tinge, and 
 a perfume is emitted from it similar to that of fresh hay, while 
 upon the more elevated plains it still retains its deep green 
 attire. Nine deer have been killed to-day, and I again marked 
 two upon my list. 
 
 July 14. — Captain McClellan and myself started out this 
 morning to make an examination of the country along the up- 
 per portion of the valley of the creek, while the command 
 crossed and encamped about four miles above our position of 
 last night. 
 
 There is much more woodland towards the sources of the 
 stream than I had supposed. Black walnut, pecan, hack- 
 berry, elm, and cotton-wood are among the varieties of timber 
 found here ; the mezquite is also abundant near the moun- 
 tains. 
 
MOUNTAIN PEAKS. 71 
 
 Many of the ti*ees in the bottom are straight and of sufficient 
 dimensions to make good building material, and there is an 
 ample supply for the farmer's purposes. The soil in the valley 
 is for the most part a dark, rich alluvion, sustaining a dense 
 carpet of herbage, and I have no doubt would yield abundant 
 crops of grain. 
 
 The stream extends in two principal branches back to the 
 mountains, where they receive numerous small tributary 
 rivulets flowing from springs. The course of the principal 
 branch is northeast and southwest, and is about twenty miles 
 in length. The mountains here appear to be in groups or 
 clusters of detached peaks of a conical form, indicating a vol- 
 canic origin, with smooth, level glades intervening; and rising, 
 as they do, perfectly isolated from all surrounding eminences 
 ypon the plateau of the great prairies, their rugged and pre- 
 cipitous granite sides almost denuded of vegetation, they pre- 
 sent a very peculiar and imposing feature in the topographical 
 aspect of the country. From the fact that the ground occu- 
 pying the space between the mountains is a level, smooth 
 surface, and exhibits no evidence of upheaval or distortion, 
 may it not with propriety be inferred that the deposition here 
 is of an origin subsequent to that of the upheaval of the moun- 
 tains ? 
 
 Jidij 15.— -We were in motion at two o'clock this morning; 
 and, taking a northeast course towards the base of the moun- 
 tain chain, passed through mezquite groves, intersected with 
 several brooks of pure water flowing into the south branch of 
 Cache creek, upon one of which we are encamped. 
 
 We find the soil good at all places near the mountains, and 
 the country well wooded and watered. The grass, consisting 
 of several varieties of the grama, is of a superior quality, and 
 grows luxuriantly. The climate is salubrious ; and the almost 
 constant cool and bracing breezes of the summer months, with 
 die entire absence of anything like marshes or stagnant water, 
 remove all sources of noxious malaria, with its attendant evils 
 of autumnal fevers. 
 
 I was so fortunate as to kill a very large and fat buck to-day, 
 which adds much relish to the good cheer of our evening 
 meal. Three others having been brought in by the hunters, 
 our larder is at present well stocked with meat. Indeed, there 
 has been but a small portion of the time since we have been 
 out that our excellent hunters have not supplied the entire 
 command with an abundance of fresh m^at. Although we 
 
72 
 
 DEER-BLEATS. 
 
 have beef cattle in the train, we have as yet had no occasion 
 to make use of one of them. 
 
 One of the Delawares has seen fresh buffalo tracks to-day 
 going to the southeast, and we still cherish the hope that we 
 may yet encounter them. 
 
 John Bushman, our interpreter, was much surprised to-day, 
 on calling a doe towards him with a deer-bleat, to see a small 
 fawn following after its mother ; but imagine his astonish- 
 ment, when immediately behind the fawn came a huge pan- 
 ther bounding rapidly towards him, and in a twinkling he 
 fastened his claws in the vitals of his victim. He, however? 
 in this instance, caught a tartar, and paid dearly for his teme- 
 rity, as John, with a spirit of indignation that would have done 
 credit to the better feelings of any man, raised his rifle, and? 
 instead of killing the deer, which was entirely at his mercy, 
 planted the contents in the side of the panther. 
 
 • The method of hunting deer by the use of the bleet is prac- 
 tised extensively by the Delawares in this country, and with 
 great success. 
 
 They make the bleat somewhat similar to the first joint of 
 a clarionet, with a brass reed scraped very thin, and applied 
 in the same manner as upon the clarionet, and so regulate and 
 adjust the instrument by experiment as to imitate almost pre- 
 cisely the cry of the young fawn. They use them during the 
 months of June and July, before the does have weaned their 
 young. Riding along near a copse of trees or brush where 
 they suppose the deer to be lying, they sound their bleats, 
 which can be heard for half a mile ; and as the doe never re- 
 mains near her fawn any longer than is necessary to give it 
 food, (when she retires to an adjoining thicket and makes her 
 bed alone,) she immediately takes alarm at what she con- 
 ceives to be a cry of distress from her helpless offspring, and, 
 in the intensity of her maternal affection, she rushes at full 
 speed in the direction of the cry, and frequently conies within 
 a few yards of the hunter, who stands ready to give her a 
 death-wound. This is an unsportsmanlike way of hunting 
 deer, and only admissible when provisions are scarce. 
 
 The bear, the wolf, and panther often come at the call 
 of the bleat, supposing they are to feast upon the tender 
 flesh of the fawn. It might be supposed that in a country 
 where there are so many carnivorous animals, the greater 
 portion of the deer would be killed by them while young ; 
 but nature, in the wisdom of its arrangements, has provided 
 the helpless little quadruped with a means of security against 
 
MOUNTAIN SPRING* 73 
 
 their attacks, which is truly wonderful. It is a well-known 
 •fact among hunters that the deer deposit a much stronger 
 scent upon their tracks than any other animal, inasmuch as 
 a dog can without difficulty follow them long after they have 
 passed at a distance of many yards from the track. Notwith- 
 standing this, the fawns, until they are sufficiently grown to 
 be able to make good running, give out no scent whatever 
 upon their tracks, and a dog of the best nose cannot follow 
 them except by sight. I have often seen the experiment 
 made, and am perfectly satisfied that such is the case ; this, 
 therefore, must in a great measure protect them from the 
 attacks of the wild animals of the country. 
 
 July 16. — Our reveille sounded at two, and we were en 
 route at three o'clock this morning. Continuing a northeast 
 course for four miles, we crossed a fine stream of clear water 
 issuing from the mountains, and running into the south branch 
 of Cache creek ; after travelling three miles further, we 
 passed another, and made our encampment upon a third : all 
 of these were of about equal magnitude, and similar in char- 
 acter. They take their rise from springs among the granite 
 mountains, and flow over the detritus and sand at the base ; 
 are about twenty feet wide, with the water clear and rapid. 
 The banks are abrupt, about ten feet high, and composed of 
 white clay and sandstone. Upon each of these branches 
 there are large bodies of post-oak timber, much of which 
 would serve as building-material, and near the bank of the 
 creek we observed black-walnut. 
 
 Within a distance of six miles around our camp, I should 
 estimate the amount of woodland at eight thousand acres.. 
 The grass is of the very best quality, and the soil cannot be 
 surpassed for fertility. 
 
 We are, at this place, directly at the base of one of the 
 most lofty and rugged mountains of the range. Its bare and 
 naked sides are almost destitute of anything in the shape of 
 a tree or plant, and it is only here and there that a small 
 patch of green can be discerned. Huge masses of flesh-col- 
 ored granite, standing out in jagged crags upon the lofty 
 acclivities, everywhere present themselves to the eye, and 
 the scenery is most picturesque, grand, and imposing. 
 
 We have for a few days past been much annoyed with a 
 species of large black horse-fly, which attacks the animals 
 most savagely, and leaves his red mark wherever he touches 
 them. These, with a species of small black gnat, are the 
 only insects that we have been troubled with. 
 
74 
 
 ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 
 
 The two men who for several weeks have been suffering 
 from the scurvy are no better, and I am fearful, if we do not 
 find the wild onion soon, that they will be in a bad state. 
 
 I have caused all the men of the command to use freely 
 what few anti-scorbutics we were enabled to procure from 
 the subsistence department, as also all the wild vegetables 
 that could be obtained upon the march ; but these do not 
 seem sufficient to fend off the disease, when men have for a 
 long time been confined exclusively to animal diet, and con- 
 stantly subjected to other causes that predispose the system 
 to the disease. 
 
 The soldiers are by no means anxious to make use of the 
 anti-scorbutics from the commissary department, as they are 
 obliged to pay for them by submitting to a deduction in the 
 amount of their ration, which, at most, is a very small allow- 
 ance for men who are marching or laboring hard. This fact 
 is so well established, that when citizen teamsters are em- 
 ployed in the quartermaster's department, it is either neces- 
 sary to give them an allowance of fifty per cent, more in the 
 amount of provisions than the soldier gets, or an addition to 
 his pay to enable him to purchase an equivalent. Dr. 
 Shumard has made use of all the remedies in his possession 
 in the cases of scurvy that have been under his treatment, 
 but he is of opinion that they avail but little in the absence 
 of vegetable diet. Our men have discovered some green 
 grapes to-day, which I hope may relieve the sick men. 
 Several gentlemen of the party ascended the mountain near 
 our camp this evening, and obtained a fine view of the adjoin- 
 ing country. They discovered that there were three distinct 
 ranges running from northeast to southwest ; at this place 
 they appear to be united in one chain, but there seems to be 
 no pass practicable for wagons in this vicinity. 
 
 July 17. — Moving out from camp at halt-past three this 
 morning, we journeyed along the southeastern base of the 
 mountains, passing several spring-brooks of cold, delicious 
 water, flowing from the deep gorges of the mountain, over the 
 masses of loose rock at the base, into the valley below. These 
 brooks are perennial, and this being the dry season, they are 
 probably now at their lowest stage, yet there is a sufficiency 
 of water for all purposes of farmers and for milling. 
 
 The soil continues of an excellent quality, and sustains a 
 heavy vegetation. In addition to the advantages of rich soil, 
 good timber, and water, which everywhere abound near the 
 
WITCHITA INDIANS. 
 
 75 
 
 mountains, thus far upon our route, may be added that ot 
 the great salubrity of the climate. 
 
 The atmosphere in these elevated regions is cool, elastic, 
 and bracing, and the breezes which sweep across the prairie 
 temper the heat of the sun, and render it, even in midsum- 
 mer, cool and comfortable. 
 
 The different branches of Cache creek drain a large extent 
 of country, which might be made available for agricultural 
 purposes, and would be sufficient Lo sustain a large popula- 
 tion. 
 
 The particular district embracing the Witchita mountains 
 has for many years been occupied and (with much justice, it 
 seems to me) claimed by the Witchita Indians, who have a 
 tradition that their original progenitor issued from the rocks of 
 these mountains, and that the Great Spirit gave him and his 
 posterity the country in the vicinity for a heritage, and here 
 they continued to live and plant corn for a long time. 
 
 Notwithstanding this claim of the Witchitas, which the right 
 of occupancy and possession has guarantied to them, yet the 
 whole of this beautiful country, as far as the 100th degree of 
 west longitude, is included in the grant made b} r the United 
 States to the Choctaws, who thereby possess the greater part 
 of the lands upon Upper Red river that are really valuable. 
 
 The Witchitas are an insignificant tribe in point of num- 
 bers, not having more than about five hundred souls in the 
 nation, and are not, of course, prepared to substantiate or en- 
 force their title to this country ; and, indeed, I very much 
 doubt if they have any claims upon the consideration or gene- 
 rosity of our government, being the most notorious and invet- 
 erate horse-thieves upon the borders, as the early frontier set- 
 tlers of Texas can vouch for ; and they are only held in 
 restraint now by fear of the troops near them. They have 
 always been extremely jealous of the motives of the white 
 people who have wished to penetrate to the interior of their 
 country, and have, upon several occasions, driven off parties 
 who have attempted to examine the country about the Witch- 
 ita mountains. 
 
 We are encamped this evening upon a swift-running brook, 
 near a very cold spring of pure water, which affords a de- 
 lightful contrast to the water we have met with upon the Ke- 
 che-a-qui-ho-no. Following up the large brook into which 
 the spring empties, I found its source in a most lovely valley, 
 about two miles above our encampment. 
 
 This valley, which is enclosed on three sides by lofty and 
 
76 
 
 MOUNT SCOTT. 
 
 rugged mountains, is mostly covered with a heavy growth of 
 timber of a very superior quality. The trees, which are Cak, 
 are large, straight, and tall, and are the best suited to the 
 carpenter's purposes of any I have ever seen west of the 
 " Cross-Timbers." The soil here possesses great fertilty, 
 and the whole valley teems with an exuberance of verdure. 
 
 July 18. — We changed our course this morning to the north, 
 and passing up the valley of the creek, found a gap or pass 
 in the first chain of mountains, through which, after much 
 difficulty, we succeeded in forcing our wagons. This gap, 
 although not very elevated, was broken up into deep and nar- 
 row gorges, filled with the angular debris of the adjoining 
 heights, over which it required great care and patience to 
 pass our train in safety. We, however, finally succeeded in 
 reaching the open prairie upon the north, and found ourselves 
 on the banks of a large stream, upon which we made our en- 
 campment. Our position is directly at the base of the most 
 elevated mountain in the Witchita chain, which I have taken 
 the liberty, in honor of our distinguished commanding gene- 
 ral, to call " Mount Scott." This peak, towering as it does 
 above all surrounding eminences, presents a very imposing 
 feature in the landscape, and is a conspicuous landmark for 
 many miles around. The altitude above the base, as deter- 
 mined by triangulation with the sextant, is eleven hundred 
 and thirty-five feet. 
 
 To the north of Mount Scott lies one of the most beautiful 
 and romantic valleys that I have ever seen. It is about 
 three miles wide, enclosed between two ranges of the moun- 
 tains, and through its centre winds a lovely stream of pure 
 water, fifty yards wide and two feet deep, the lively current 
 of which rushes wildly down over an almost continuous suc- 
 cession of rapids and rocky defiles. It is fringed upon each 
 side with gigantic pecan, overcup, (Quercus macrocarpa,) 
 white-ash, (Fraxinus Americana,) river-elm, (Ulmus memoralis,) 
 and hackberry trees, (Celtis.J About the base of the moun- 
 tains we find an abundance of post-oak, (Quercus obtusiloba,) 
 and towards the summits, the red cedar (Junvperus Virgini- 
 ana) grows. 
 
 The soil in this valley is highly productive, and sustains a 
 heavy vegetation. The grass is very dense, of a good quali- 
 ty, and from two to three feet high ; and were it not for the 
 large flies that continue to phlebotomize our animals, they 
 would luxuriate here. 
 
 Towards sundown I took my rifle, and, mounting a small 
 
BUFFALO. 7 1 
 
 Indian pony belonging to my negro servant, started up the 
 creek for the purpose of hunting deer. After I had gone 
 about two miles from camp, I suddenly discovered a buffalo 
 bull very quietly cropping the grass under some oak trees near 
 the creek. No sooner, however, did I see him, than, raising 
 his head and giving one look in the direction I was approach- 
 ing, he set off at a spanking gallop over the prairie. I ap- 
 plied the rowels most vigorously to the diminutive beast 
 which I bestrode, and endeavored, by making a cut-off over 
 the hills, to get within rifle range ; but after exhausting all the 
 efforts of the ppny, I only found myself within about two 
 hundred yardsflfcf the buffalo, and gave him a running salute 
 as he passed, but did not observe him falter or make the 
 slightest diminution in his speed ; whereupon I reluctantly 
 abandoned the chase, and returned to camp. 
 
OLD INDIAN VILLAGES. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Old Indian villages— Beautiful scenery — Trap formation— Lost mule — -Beaver 
 creek — Prairie guides — Rush creek— Witchita and Waco villages — Mexican 
 prisoners— -Talk with the Indians — Cross Timbers — Kickapoos — Strike wagon 
 track — Arrival at Fort Arbuckle. A 
 
 July 19.— At daylight this morning we crossed the creek 
 after having excavated a passage for the wagons in the high 
 banks, and travelled down the valley along the outer border 
 of the timber in the bottom. The country over which we 
 marched was of a similar character to that described about 
 our last camp, and equally beautiful. We passed two old 
 Indian villages, which John Bull, one of the hunters, says' 
 were formerly occupied by the Witchitas and Keechies ; 
 several of the lodges were still standing, with their old corn- 
 fields near by. 
 
 Our camp is upon the creek about a mile above the village 
 last occupied by the Witchitas before they left the mountains. 
 Here they lived and planted corn for several years, and they 
 have exhibited much taste and judgment in the selection of the; 
 site for their town. It is situated at the eastern extremity o. 
 the mountains, upon a plateau directly along the south bank 
 of the creek, and elevated about a hundred feet above it. 
 commanding an extended view of the country towards tb< 
 north, south, and east. From its commanding position it i> 
 well secured against surprise, and is by nature altogether one: 
 of the most defensible places I have seen. 
 
 The landscape which is here presented to the eye has ?. 
 most charming diversity of scenery, consisting of mountains 
 woodlands, glades, water-courses, and prairies, all laid out 
 and arranged in such peculiar order as to produce a witching 
 effect upon the senses. 
 
 This must have been a favorite spot for the Indians ; and 
 why they have abandoned it I cannot imagine, unless it was 
 through fear of the Comanches. It is only two years since 
 they removed from here, and their lodge-frames are stili 
 standing, with the scaffolds upon which they dried their corn, 
 
 The soil, in point of fertility, surpasses anything we hav? 
 
NATURAL MEADOW. 79 
 
 before seen, and the vegetation in the old corn-fields is so 
 dense, that it was with great difficulty I could force my horse 
 through it. It consisted of rank weeds, growing to the height 
 of twelve feet. Soil of this character must have produced an 
 enormous yield of corn. The timber is sufficiently abundant 
 for all purposes of the agriculturist, and of a superior quality. 
 Most of the varieties of hard wood, such as over-cup, post- 
 oak, black-walnut, pecan, hackberry, ash, black or Spanish 
 oak, (Quercas elongata,) elm, and china, besides cotton- wood 
 and willow, are found here. We also found the wild passion- 
 flower, (Passiflom incamata,) and a beautiful variety of the 
 sensitive plants which we had not met with before. 
 
 Directly opposite the village, upon the north side, there is a 
 large body of timber, which extends across to the eastern 
 branch of Cache creek ; this unites with the branch upon 
 which we are encamped, about a mile below the village. 
 
 [}pon the south bank of the creek there is an immense na- 
 tural meadow, clothed with luxuriant grasses, where hay 
 might be procured sufficient to subsist immense numbers of 
 cattle. Opposite our camp the creek flows directly at the 
 base of a perpendicular wall of porphyritic trap, three hun- 
 dred feet high, and studded with dwarf cedars, which, taking 
 shallow root in the crevices of the formation, receive their 
 meagre sustenance from the scanty decomposition of the rocks* 
 This escarpment has a columnar structure, with the flutings 
 parallel, and traversing the face in a vertical direction from 
 top to bottom, and has the appearance of being the vertical 
 section of a round hill that has been cleft asunder and one- 
 half removed, there being no appearance of a continuation of 
 the formation upon the opposite bank of the creek. All the 
 sides of this hill, except that upon the creek, are smooth, with 
 gentle and easy slopes, covered with grass up to the very 
 verge of the acclivity. On riding up the smooth ascent of 
 this eminence, and suddenly coming upon the edge of the 
 giddy precipice, one involuntarily recoils back with a shudder 
 at the appearance of this strange freak of nature. Large veins 
 of quartz were seen traversing this formation, and upon an ex- 
 amination of specimens, we found it to be cellular or spongy, 
 with the cells rilled with liquid naptha, of about the consist- 
 ence of tar, and having a strong resinous odor. 
 
 We have now reached the eastern extremity of the Witchita 
 chain of mountains, and shall to-morrow morning cross the 
 main creek below the village, and strike our course for Fort 
 
CHOCTAW RESERVATION. 
 
 Arbuckle, this being the nearest military post, and in our 
 course for Fort Smith. 
 
 The more we have seen of the country about these moun- 
 tains, the more pleased we have been with it. Indeed, I have 
 never visited any country that, in my opinion, possessed 
 greater natural local advantages for agriculture than this. 
 Bounteous nature seems here to have strewed her favors with 
 a lavish hand, and to have held out every inducement for 
 civilized man to occupy it. The numerous tributaries of Cache 
 creek flowing from granite fountains, and winding, like net- 
 work, in every direction through the valleys in the mountains— 
 withthe advantages of good timber, soil, and grass, the pure, 
 elastic, and delicious climate, with a bracing atmosphere— all 
 unite in presenting rare inducements to the husbandman. It 
 would only be necessary for our practical farmers to visit this lo- 
 cality ; they could not be otherwise than pleased with it. And 
 were it not for the fact that the greater part of the most desir- 
 able _ lands lie east of the 100th meridian of longitude, and 
 within the limits of that vast territory ceded by our govern- 
 ment to the Choctaws, it would be purchased and settled by our 
 citizens in a very few years. As it is now situated, far beyond 
 the limits of the settlements, and directly within the range of 
 the Comanches, it is of no use to the Choctaws themselves, 
 as they do not venture among the prairie tribes, and do not 
 even know the character of this part of their own territory. 
 They have a superabundance of fertile lands bordering upon 
 the Red and Canadian rivers, near the white settlements of 
 Texas and Arkansas, and they prefer occupying those to 
 going further out. They have thrown aside their primitive 
 habits, in a great degree, and abandoned the precarious and 
 uncertain life of the hunter, for the more quiet avocation of 
 the husbandman. They look upon the wild Indian in much 
 the same light as we do, and do not go among them ; indeed, 
 there is but little in common with them and the wild Indians.* 
 In consequence of losing one of our mules last night, we 
 were detained later than usual this morning. Two of the 
 
 *The lands included within the Choctaw reservation, which are not occupied 
 or made use of by them, are embraced within the 97th and 100th degrees of 
 west longitude, and are bounded upon the north and south by the Canadian and 
 Red rivers, being about one hundred and eighty miles in length by fifty in width, 
 and constituting an aggregate of about nine thousand square miles of valuable 
 and productive lands, or one thousand square miles more than the State of 
 Massachusetts. 
 
PERSEVERANCE OF THE GUIDES. 81 
 
 Delawares went out at day-light in search of it, but returned 
 in about two hours, not having been able to strike the track. 
 We had, up to this time, been so fortunate as to lose no ani- 
 mals. I was, therefore, particularly desirous that the lost mule 
 should be recovered, and intimated as much to our interpreter, 
 John Bushman, who had not joined in the first search. At 
 the same time, I asked him what he thought were the chances 
 of success. He replied, in his laconic and non-committal 
 style, " I think maybe so find um — -maybe not." I directed 
 him to make an effort, and not give over the search as long- 
 as there remained the least prospect of success. We then 
 packed our wagons and started on towards Fort Arbuckle, 
 crossing the creek below the old village, where it was forty 
 yards wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current flowing 
 over a bed of gravel. 
 
 Upon the east bank of the creek we passed over a broad 
 and level piece of bottom-land, covered with a dense crop of 
 wild rice, and other rich grasses. We then left the valley in 
 a course north of east, over the ridge dividing Cache from Bea- 
 ver creek, until we reached a branch of the latter, upon which 
 we encamped. The timber here is large and abundant ; the 
 water fresh, but standing in pools ; and the soil good. I have 
 crossed this same stream at four different places below here, 
 and have invariably found the soil of a similar character and 
 the timber large, consisting of pecan, elm, hackberry, oak, cot- 
 ton-wood, and walnut, and generally confined to the borders 
 of the stream. 
 
 Our most excellent and indefatigable hunter, John Bush- 
 man, returned this evening with the lost mule, having tracked 
 him for twenty miles from where he left us. He had also 
 killed a buffalo during the day, and brought us a piece of the 
 hump. He states that from the time the mule left us until he 
 overtook him, he had continued to travel, without stopping, 
 directly to the north, and at right-angles to the course we had 
 been pursuing. 1 inquired of him if he did not become al- 
 most discouraged before he came up with the animal. He 
 said no ; that I had ordered him not to return without him, 
 and that he should have been on the track yet if he had not 
 overtaken him. I have no doubt such would have been the 
 case, for he is a man of eminently determinate and resolute 
 character, with great powers of endurance, and a most acute 
 and vigilant observer, accompanied by prominent organs of 
 locality and sound judgment. These traits of character, with 
 the abundant experience he has had upon the plains, make him 
 6 
 
82 RESOLUTION OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 one of the very best guides I have ever met with. He never 
 sees a place once without instantly recognising it on seeing it 
 the second time, notwithstanding he may approach it from a 
 different direction ; and the very moment he takes a glance 
 over a district of country he has never seen before, he will al- 
 most invariably point out the particular localities (if there are 
 any such) where water can be found, when to others there 
 seems to be nothing to indicate it. Such qualifications render 
 the services of these people highly important, and almost in- 
 dispensable in a tour upon the prairies. 
 
 An incident which was related to me as occurring with one 
 of these guides a few years since, forcibly illustrates their 
 character. The officer having charge of the party to which 
 he was attached, sent him out to examine a trail he had met 
 with on the prairie, for the purpose of ascertaining where it 
 would lead to. The guide, after following it as far as he sup- 
 posed he would be required to do, returned and reported that 
 it led off into the prairies to no particular place, so far as he 
 could discover. He was told that this was not satisfactory, and 
 directed to take the trail again, and to follow it until he gained 
 the required information. He accordingly went out the second 
 time, but did not return that day, nor the next, and the party, 
 after a time, began to be alarmed for his safety, fearing he 
 might have been killed by the Indians. Da} r s and weeks 
 passed by, but still nothing was heard of the guide, until, on 
 arriving at the first border settlement, to their astonishment, 
 he made his appearance among them, and, approaching the 
 commanding officer, said, " Captain, that trail which you 
 ordered me to follow terminates here." He had, with in- 
 domitable and resolute energy, traversed alone several hun- 
 dred miles of wild and desolate prairie, with nothing but his 
 gun to depend upon for a subsistence, determined this time to 
 carry out the instructions of his employer to the letter. 
 
 July 21. — We crossed two small branches this morning at 
 four o'clock, and continued our course over undulating prai- 
 ries, with smooth and even surfaces, frequently crossing small 
 affluents of Beaver creek, where we found good running spring 
 water, which can always be relied upon. 
 
 We had a copious shower this morning, which is the first 
 rain that has fallen in several weeks. 
 
 There is good timber and grass upon all the branches we have 
 passed to-day, and the soil is highly productive. We have also 
 passed several groves of post-oak timber upon the ridges ; this, 
 however, for the most part, is small, short, and scrubby. 
 
WITCHITA VILLAGE. 83 
 
 Jtihj 22. — Making an early start at two o'clock this morn- 
 ing, we ascended the eastern branch of Beaver creek to its 
 source, when we found ourselves upon the ridge dividing this 
 stream from Rush creek. The ridge is covered with timber 
 similar to that of the Cross Timbers, consisting of post-oak 
 and black-jack, ( Querents ferruginea. ) 
 
 Our road leads for five miles through this timber, when it 
 emerges into a beautiful meadow, where the head of one of 
 the branches of Rush creek takes its rise in large springs, and 
 runs off' in a fine bold stream, with a variety of hard timber 
 along its borders. After following down this about two miles, 
 we suddenly came in sight of several squaws who were col- 
 lecting the tall grass which grows along the banks of the 
 creek. They no sooner espied us than they jumped upon 
 their horses and were about making off"; most of them, how- 
 ever, stopped at the command of our interpreter, while one 
 or two gallopped away in the direction of the village to give 
 notice of our approach. They proved to be Wacos and Wit- 
 chitas, and informed us that their villages were about four 
 miles in advance, at the same time inviting us to pay them a 
 visit. We reached the villages (which were situated upon the 
 banks of Rush creek) and encamped about half a mile bekrw 
 them in the valley. 
 
 Immediately on our arrival we were accosted by a large 
 crowd of men who were anxious to learn where we had been 
 and whether we had seen any Comanches ; and as we were 
 (I think) the first party of whites who had visited them at this 
 place, they appeared very glad to see us — probably in antici- 
 pation of presents. 
 
 There are two villages here occupied by the Witchitas and 
 Wacos respectively ; they are situated in the rich and fertile 
 valley of the creek, where they have cultivated corn, pump- 
 kins, beans, peas, and melons. These people have no ploughs, 
 or other agricultural implements, but a small hoe, with which 
 they prepare the ground for the reception of the seed, and do 
 all other necessary work in its cultivation ; yet the prolific 
 soil gives them bountiful returns ; and were it not for their im- 
 provident natures, they might, with little labor, have sufficient 
 for the whole year. Instead of this, they only care for the 
 present, and from the time the corn is fit for roasting, are con- 
 continually eating and feasting until it is gone. They are then 
 obliged to depend upon the precarious results of the chase 
 during the remainder of the year. 
 
 The village of the Witchitas has forty-two lodges, each 
 
84 WACOES. 
 
 containing two families of about ten persons. These lodges 
 are made by erecting a frame-work of poles placed in a cir- 
 cle in the ground, with the tops united in an oval form and 
 bound together with numerous withes or wattles, the whole 
 nicely thatched with grass ; and when completed, it makes a 
 very commodious and comfortable domicil. The interior ar- 
 rangements are such, that every person has a bunk, raised 
 from the ground and covered with buffalo-hides, forming a 
 couch which is far from being uncomfortable. When seated 
 around their fires in the centre of the lodges, they have an air 
 of domestic happiness about them which I did not expect to 
 find. 
 
 The lodges are about twenty-five feet in diameter at the 
 base, twenty feet high, and in the distance have very much 
 the appearance of a group of hay-stacks. With the excep- 
 tion of a few families that live upon the Canadian, the whole 
 Witchita nation is concentrated at this place ; their numbers 
 do not exceed five hundred souls. They have, during the 
 early settlement of Texas, given more trouble to the people 
 upon the northern borders of that State than any other Indians. 
 They have no regard for truth, will steal, and are wholly un- 
 worthy of the least confidence, and their vicious propensities 
 are only kept in check now from fear. 
 
 s Living, as they do, between the white settlements and the 
 prairie tribes, they are at the mercy of both ; they seem to be 
 conscious of this fact, and express a desire to be on terms of 
 friendship with all their neighbors. At my urgent request 
 they presented us with several bushels of green corn this 
 evening, which was very acceptable, as we had seen no vege- 
 tables for several months. 
 
 The Wacos live about a mile above the Witchitas, in a vil- 
 lage constructed precisely like the other. There are twenty 
 lodges in this village, and about two hundred souls. Their 
 habits and customs are similar to the Witchitas, with whom 
 they frequently intermarry, and are upon the best and most 
 friendly terms. 
 
 Both of these tribes subsist for a great portion of the year 
 upon buffalo and deer, and wear the buffalo robes like the 
 Comanches. They also use the bow and arrow for killing 
 game ; sume of them, however, are provided with rifles, and 
 are good shots. They have a large stock of horses and mules, 
 many of which are the small Spanish breed with the Mexican 
 brand upon them, and have probably been obtained from the 
 prairie tribes ; while others are large, well formed animals, 
 
MEXICAN PRISONERS. 85 
 
 and have undoubtedly been stolen from the border white set- 
 tlers. 
 
 We learned from the Witchitas, much to our surprise, that 
 a report had been made to the commanding officer at Fort 
 Arbuckle, by a Keechi Indian, to the effect that our whole 
 party had been overpowered and massacred by the Coman- 
 ches near the head of Red river. This information must have 
 originated with the Comanches or Kiowas, as they are the 
 only tribes inhabiting the country about the sources of the 
 river ; neither the Keechies nor the Witchitas ever venture as 
 far out into the plains as we have been. 
 
 The account given by the Indian was so circumstantial and 
 minute in every particular, showing a perfect knowledge of all 
 our movements, with our numbers and equipment, that the 
 information was evidently communicated by persons who 
 were near us at the time, and observing our movements. This 
 accounts for the fact of their avoiding us upon all occasions, 
 although we saw them several times, as has been observed, 
 and frequently passed their camps that had been abandoned 
 but a short time, yet they never came to us or communicated 
 with us. They probably regarded us as out upon a hostile ex- 
 pedition, going into their country to chastise them for their de- 
 predations, and may have supposed that the report of our having 
 been massacred would deter other parties from following us. 
 
 The old chief of the Witchitas (To-se-quash) informed us that 
 Pah-hah-en-ka's band of the " Middle Comanches," in conse- 
 quence of some of their people having been killed near one of 
 the military posts in Texas, were much exasperated, and had 
 burnt up the testimonials of good character given to them by 
 United States authorities. They had always before preserved 
 these papers with great care, and manifested much pride and 
 satisfaction in exhibiting them to strangers. To-se-quash says 
 they are now "very mad," and will fight us whenever they 
 meet us. 
 
 July 23. — As it rained during the night, and still continues, 
 we did not move forward to-day. D uring the morning I sent 
 for the chiefs of the two villages, for the purpose of endeavor- 
 ing to persuade them to surrender to me two Mexican priso- 
 ers in their possession : one a man about forty years of age, 
 and the other a boy of fifteen. The man stated that he had 
 been with the Witchitas since he was a child, and he was not 
 now disposed to leave them ; that he had become as great a 
 rascal as any of the Indians, (which I gave full credence to,) 
 and should not feel at home anywhere else. 
 
<5b LEAVE WITCHITA VILLAGE. 
 
 It appeared, however, that the boy had only been with them 
 a few months. He states that he was kidnapped by the Kio- 
 ways from his home near Chihuahua; that in consequence of 
 their brutal treatment he escaped, and made his way to the 
 Witchita mountains, where a Witchita hunter found him in 
 nearly a famished state, and brought him to this place. He 
 says he has been kindly treated by the Witchitas, bat is anx- 
 ious to leave them and go with us. He appears to be very 
 intelligent, and reads and writes in his own language. 
 
 In a talk with the chiefs, I told them that the American 
 people were now on terms of friendship with the Mexicans, 
 and in a treaty we had obligated ourselves to return to them 
 all prisoners in the hands of Indians in our territory, and to 
 prevent further depredations being committed upon them ; that 
 the principal chief of the whites (the President) would not re- 
 gard any tribe of Indians as friends who acted in violation of 
 this treaty ; that he confidently hoped and expected all the 
 tribes who were friendly to our people would comply strictly 
 with the requirements of the treaty, and give up all prisoners 
 in their possession. I then requested them to release to me 
 the boy, and told them if they did this I should make them 
 some presents of articles that had been sent out by the Presi- 
 dent for such of his red children as were his friends. They 
 hesitated for a long time, stating that the boy belonged to a 
 Waco, and he loved him so much that it was doubtful if he 
 could be persuaded to part with him. Whereupon I told them 
 that if they released the boy quietly, I should reward them ; 
 but otherwise I had determined to take him from them by 
 force, and if compelled to resort to this course, should give 
 them nothing in return. This appeared to have the desired 
 effect, and they said if I would make the family into which he 
 bad been adopted a few presents, in addition to what I had 
 promised them, they would release him. I accordingly dis- 
 tributed the presents, and took possession of the boy. Upon 
 turning him over to us they divested him of the few rags of 
 covering that hung about his person, and reluctantly gave him 
 to us, and he makes his exit from the Witchita nation in the 
 same costume in which he entered the world. We soon had 
 him comfortably clothed, and he is much delighted with the 
 change. Captain McClellan will take him to San Antonio, 
 from which place he will communicate with his relatives. 
 
 July 24. — We left the Witchita village at 4 o'clock this 
 morning, and intended to have followed the trail which the 
 Indians travel to Fort Arbuckle, but soon discovered that it 
 
KICKAPOOS. 8 / 
 
 crossed numerous brooks running through deep gullies impass- 
 able for wagons, which made it necessary for us to turn south 
 towards the dividing ridge between Rush creek and Wild 
 Horse creek. We followed this ridge for seven miles, and 
 encamped upon a small affluent of Wild Horse creek. In 
 our march to-day we passed over an elevated, waving coun- 
 try, interspersed with groves of oak. Upon each side of the 
 dividing ridge are numerous small spring branches, flowing 
 off to the right and left, and upon these there is an abundance 
 of good timber, with soil of the best quality. We have passed 
 the range of the grama grass, but still find the mezquite and 
 other varieties of wild grasses, upon which our animals con- 
 tinue to thrive, and keep in excellent condition. After we had 
 proceeded some ten miles upon our march this morning, we 
 discovered that our friends the Witchitas had, in the charac- 
 teristic style of their hospitality, abstracted from one of our 
 wagons several articles which they probaby supposed would 
 be more useful to them than to us. Unfortunately, we were 
 too far from the village to admit of going back and making 
 them restore the articles. Our Spanish boy states that before 
 he left, they advised him to seize the first opportunity that 
 should offer to steal one of our horses, and make his escape to 
 them. 
 
 July 25. — Our wagons were packed, and we were in mo- 
 tion at about 3 o'clock this morning, in a course nearly due 
 east, down the right bank of Wild Horse creek for eight miles, 
 when we entered the Cross-Timbers upon the ridge dividing 
 this stream from Mud creek (an affluent of Red river, which 
 puts in above the Washita.) Our encampment this evening 
 is upon the border of a ravine in the timber, where we find 
 good water and grass. 
 
 In our march to-day, we have passed the heads of several 
 branches running into Wild Horse, Beaver, Rush, and Mud 
 creeks, upon all of which there is an exuberant vegetation, de- 
 noting a fertile soil. The timber is abundant, and of good 
 quality, and the water, issuing from springs, is perennial. I 
 have passed through the Cross-Timbers at five different points 
 before this, and have always found them similar in character 
 and composition. 
 
 Some Kickapoo hunters came into camp this evening, and 
 we could not but remark the striking contrast between them 
 and the Witchitas. They were fine-looking, well-dressed 
 young men, with open, frank, and intelligent countenances, 
 and seem to scorn the idea of begging ; while the others, as 
 
Ob REACH FORT ARBUCKLE < 
 
 has been observed, are incessantly begging every article they 
 see, and do not possess the slightest gratitude for favors re- 
 ceived. 
 
 July 26. — At daylight this morning we resumed our march 
 through the Cross-Timbers, keeping the dividing ridge for 
 two miles, when we turned to the left, and passed down near 
 Wild Horse creek ; but we found small streams, with abrupt 
 banks, crossing our course so frequently, that we had much 
 difficulty in making progress. We, however, by hard labor 
 in digging down banks and cutting through dense thickets, suc- 
 ceeded in making eight miles, and encamped upon a small 
 spring branch in the Cross-Timbers. A short distance before 
 we reached our present position we fell into an old Indian 
 trail, where some wagons had passed several years before. 
 We noticed where several small trees had been cut, and where 
 the bark had been scraped off from others by the ends of the 
 axles as they passed along. 
 
 July 27. — As soon as it was sufficiently light to enable us 
 to see the trail this morning, we started on, keeping the old 
 wagon trace through the timber for eight miles, when it led 
 us into a road I had made the last season, between Fort Ar- 
 buckle and Fort Belknap, at a point fourteen miles from the 
 former post. As soon as the men came in sight of this, they 
 gave a prolonged and simultaneous shout of joy ; it seemed 
 to them like greeting an old familiar acquaintance : it was the 
 first place they had recognised in several months, and it 
 brought them near home. 
 
 The axes and spades were laid by in the wagons, as our 
 labors in road-making terminate here ; and I have no doubt 
 the command are heartily rejoiced upon the occasion, as their 
 duty since we left the Witchita mountains has been very la- 
 borious. Two miles after striking the road we emerged from 
 the Cross-Timbers, and passing over a range of low moun- 
 tains lying south of Wild Horse Creek valley, encamped nine 
 miles from Fort Arbuckle. 
 
 July 28. — At one o'clock this morning we were upon the 
 road again, and at daylight marched into Fort Arbuckle, 
 where we found our friends much astonished and delighted at 
 our sudden appearance among them, when they had supposed 
 us all massacred by the Comanches. We are much indebted 
 to the kind hospitality of the officers stationed here for the 
 generous supply of vegetables with which they furnished our 
 entire command during our stay with them. After an exclu- 
 sive diet of meat and bread for several months, we could not 
 
SAFE RETURN OF THE PARTY. 89 
 
 have had a more welcome present than the fine fresh vegeta- 
 bles which their gardens afforded. 
 
 I shall remain here for two or three days to dispose of the 
 stores on our hands, recruit our animals, and get the company 
 in readiness to return to its station at Fort Belknap, under 
 charge of Lieutenant Updegraff. 
 
 I feel a sincere regret at parting with the company, as the 
 uniform good conduct of the men during the entire march of 
 about a thousand miles merits my most sincere and heartfelt 
 approbation. I have seldom had occasion even to reprimand 
 one of them. All have performed the arduous duties assigned 
 them with the utmost alacrity and good will ; and when (as 
 was sometimes the case) we were obliged to make long- 
 marches, and drink the most disgusting water for several days 
 together, instead of murmuring and making complaints, they 
 were cheerful and in good spirits. I owe them, as well as 
 the officers and gentlemen who were with me, my most hearty 
 thanks for their cordial co-operation with me in all the duties 
 assigned to the expedition. It is probably in a great measure 
 owing to this harmonious action on the part of all persons at- 
 tached to the expedition that it has resulted so fortunately. 
 
 We have lost no men by death, and, with the exception of the 
 two cases of scurvy, there has been no sickness of consequence. 
 And instead of any of our animals dying or straying away, 
 we have had the especial good fortune of adding three horses, 
 which we found upon the plains, to the number we received 
 at the commencement of the march. 
 
 The animals, and particularly the oxen, many of which 
 were so poor when they left Preston as to be considered al- 
 most useless, have all returned in fine condition, and are now 
 much better capable of performing service than when they 
 came into our hands. 
 
90 PROMINENT FEATURES OF RED RIVER. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Prominent features of Red river — Floods — Chain of lakes — Cross-timbers — 
 Arable lands — Establishment of a military post upon Red river recommended 
 — Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing- to Mexico — Wagon-route from 
 Fort Belknap to Santa Fe — Navigation of Red river — Erroneous opinions in 
 regard to Red river — Extensive gypsum range — El Llano Estacado. 
 
 In a comprehensive review of the physical characteristics 
 of the particular section of Red river which is comprised 
 within the limits of the district assigned to the attention of the 
 expedition, it will not perhaps be considered irrelevant to 
 make a few general observations upon the more prominent 
 features of the country bordering upon this stream, from its 
 confluence with the Mississippi to its sources. It will be ob- 
 served, by reference to a map of the country embracing the 
 basin of this river, that in ascending from the mouth, its general 
 direction as high as Fulton, Arkansas, is nearly north and 
 south ; that here it suddenly changes its course and maintains 
 a direction almost due east and west to its sources. One of 
 the first peculiarities which strikes the mind on a survey of 
 the topography of this extensive district of country, is the 
 general uniformity of its surface : with the exception of the 
 Witchita range no extensive chains of lofty mountains diversi- 
 ty the perspective, and but few elevated hills rise up to relieve 
 the monotony of the prospect. Another distinguishing feature 
 of this river is, that the country on its upper waters differs in 
 every respect from that in the vicinity of its mouth. The val- 
 ley is found to comprise two great geographical sections, each 
 having physical characteristics entirely distinct from the other. 
 The main branch of the river, from the point where it de- 
 bouches out of the Staked Plain, flows through an arid prairie 
 country almost entirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of 
 light and shifting sands, for a distance, measured upon its 
 sinuosities, of some five hundred miles. This country for the 
 most part, is subject to periodical seasons of drought, which 
 preclude the possibility of cultivation except by means of arti- 
 ficial irrigation. It then enters a country covered with forest- 
 trees of gigantic dimensions, growing upon an alluvial soil of 
 
SOURCES OF RED RIVER. 91 
 
 the most pre-eminent fertility, which sustains a very diversi- 
 fied sylva, and affords to the planter the most bountiful returns 
 of all the products suited to this latitude. On entering this 
 section of the river we find that the borders contract, and the 
 water, for a great portion of the year, washes both banks, at 
 a high stage, carrying away the loose alluvium from one side 
 and depositing it upon the other in such a manner as to pro- 
 duce constant changes in the channel and to render the naviga- 
 tion difficult. This character prevails through the remainder 
 of its course to the Delta of the Mississippi, and throughout 
 this section it is subject to heavy inundations, which often flood 
 the bottoms to such a degree as to produce very serious con- 
 sequences to the planters, destroying their crops, and, upon sub- 
 siding, occasionally leaving a deposite of white sand over the 
 surface, rendering it thenceforth entirely barren and worthless. 
 
 Below the great raft a chain of lakes continues to skirt the 
 river for more than a hundred miles : these are supposed to 
 have been formed in the ancient channels and low grounds of 
 former streams, whose discharge had gradually been obstruct- 
 ed by an embankment formed of the sedimentary matter 
 brought down the river from above. 
 
 These lakes are from five to fifty miles in length, from a 
 quarter to three miles wide, and are filled and emptied alter- 
 nately as the floods in Red river rise and fall ; they serve as 
 reservoirs, which in the inundations of the banks of the river 
 receive a great quantity of water, and, as it subsides, empty 
 their contents gradually, thereby tending to impede the rapid 
 discharge of the floods upon the Delta. Like all rivers of 
 great length which drain a large extent of country, Red river 
 is subjected to periodical seasons of high and low water. The 
 floods occur at very uniform epochs, but the quantity and 
 elevation of the water, as well as its continuance at a high 
 stage, vary constantly. 
 
 During the winter the water often remains high for several 
 months, but the heavy rise which has almost invariably been 
 observed during the month of June, often subsides in a very 
 few days. 
 
 The geographical position of the sources of Red river being 
 in latitude 34° 42', and longitude 103° 7 10", and its conflu- 
 ence with the Mississippi in latitude about 31° and longitude 
 91° 50', it extends over three and a half degrees of latitude 
 and eleven degrees of longitude. The barometrical elevation 
 of its sources above the sea is twenty-four hundred and fifty 
 feet. The estimated distance by the meanderings of the 
 
92 EXTENT OF ARABLE LAND. 
 
 stream frorn the mouth to Preston, Texas, is sixteen hundred 
 miles, and from this point to the sources of the main branch 
 five hundred more, making the entire length of the river two 
 thousand one hundred miles. 
 
 On emerging from the timbered lands upon Red river into 
 the great plains, we pass through a strip of forest called the 
 Cross-Timbers. This extensive belt of woodland, which 
 forms one of the most prominent and anomalous features upon 
 the face of the country, is from five to thirty miles wide, 
 and extends from the Arkansas river in a southwesterly direc- 
 tion to the Brazos, some four hundred miles. 
 
 At six different points where I have passed through it, I 
 have found it characterized by the same peculiarities ; the 
 trees, consisting principally of post-oak and black-jack, stand- 
 ing at such intervals that wagons can without difficulty pass 
 between them in any direction. The soil is thin, sandy, and 
 poorly watered. This forms a boundary-line, dividing the 
 country suited to agriculture from the great prairies, which, 
 for the most part, are arid and destitute of timber. It seems 
 to have been designed as a natural barrier between civilized 
 man and the savage, as, upon the east side, there are nume- 
 rous spring-brooks flowing over a highly prolific soil, with a 
 superabundance of the best of timber, and an exuberant vege- 
 tation, teeming with the delightful perfume of flowers of the 
 most brilliant hues ; here and there interspersed with verdant 
 glades and small prairies, affording inexhaustible grazing, and 
 the most beautiful natural meadows that can be imagined ; 
 while on the other side commence those barren and desolate 
 wastes, where but few small streams greet the eye of the trav- 
 eller, and these are soon swallowed up by the thirsty sands 
 over which they flow. Here but little woodland is found, ex- 
 cept on the immediate borders of the water-courses. 
 
 From the point where Red river leaves the limbered lands, 
 the entire face of the country, as if by the wand of a magician, 
 suddenly changes its character. The bluffs now approach 
 nearer the river, and the alluvial bottoms, which below here 
 have been exceedingly rich and productive, contract, and do 
 not support that dense and rank vegetation which character- 
 izes the lower portion of the valley. The undergrowth of 
 cane-brakes and vines disappears, and is no more seen 
 throughout the entire extent of the valley. The lands adja- 
 cent gradually rise, and exhibit broad and elevated swells of 
 surface, with spacious valleys intervening, and the soil con- 
 tinues to become more and more sterile as we ascend, until 
 
COMANCHES AND KIOWAYS. \)d 
 
 we reach the 101st degree of longitude, when from this point, 
 with few exceptions, there is no more arable land. 
 
 Previous to my departure upon the expedition, I had been 
 led to believe, from the representations of the Indians and 
 others, that after passing Cache creek, no more good timber 
 or land suited to cultivation would be met with upon the 
 waters of Red river ; but in this (as will have been observed) 
 I was greatly in error, as we found much good timber and 
 fertile land above this point. 
 
 The country drained by the numerous branches of Cache 
 creek alone is very large, and possesses, in a remarkable de- 
 gree, all the elements necessary for constituting a rich and 
 productive agricultural district. 
 
 Including the valleys embraced within the Witchita moun- 
 tains, there are, upon a very moderate estimate, at least from 
 seventy-five to eighty thousand acres of tillable lands upon the 
 waters of this stream. In the valley of Otter creek there are 
 also several thousand acres of rich alluvial lands, with timber 
 in abundance ; and upon Elk, Sweetwater, and the other 
 small affluents of the North Fork, much land is found which 
 would rank with our government surveyors as "first rate" in 
 quality. All these would make up an aggregate of at least 
 one hundred and fifty thousand acres of land, upon which 
 cotton, corn, and most other grains could be produced abun- 
 dantly. 
 
 Could they be persuaded to lay aside their wandering hab- 
 its and cultivate the soil, the amount of land here alluded to 
 would be more than sufficient to sustain all the natives inhab- 
 iting this section of country ; and the luxuriant and nutritious 
 grasses which everywhere abound throughout the entire ex- 
 tent of the river basin, would furnish an inexhaustible amount 
 of forage and grazing for their numerous animals. The win- 
 ters here are mild, and it is seldom that the snow covers the 
 ground more than a day or two at a time. There is a con- 
 stant supply of good running-water upon all the minor tribu- 
 taries to the North Fork, and sufficient woodland to supply 
 farmers with fuel for a great number of years. 
 
 The soil of the valley of the main trunk of the river, as 
 well as upon the Salt Fork, is thin and sandy, with very little 
 timber or palatable water ; and the country here possesses 
 but few of the requisites essential to agriculture. 
 
 The Comanches and Kioways resort in great numbers to 
 the waters of the north fork of Red river, where they find for- 
 age for their animals abundant during the winter months. 
 
94 NECESSITY OF A NEW POST. 
 
 Vestiges of their camps were everywhere observed along the 
 whole course of the valley, from the Witchita mountains to 
 the sources ; and the numerous remains of the stumps of trees, 
 which had been cut down by them at different periods, indi- 
 cated that this had been a favorite resort for them during 
 many years. In several places we found camps that had only 
 been deserted but a few days, and some where the fires were 
 still burning. From the great extent of surface upon which 
 the grass was cropped at some of these camping-places, and 
 from the multitude of tracks still remaining, we inferred that 
 they were supplied with immense numbers of animals ; and 
 they are undoubtedly attracted here by the superior quality 
 of the grass, and the great abundance of cotton-wood which 
 is found along the borders of the streams, upon the bark of 
 which they fatten their favorite horses in the winter season. 
 
 Should the government authorities ever have occasion to 
 communicate with these Indians, I have no doubt that many 
 of them can always be found during the autumn, winter, and 
 spring months along this branch of Red river ; during the 
 summer they leave and travel north in pursuit of the buffalo, 
 generally ranging between the north fork of the Canadian and 
 the Arkansas river. 
 
 We observed but few places upon the main branch of the 
 river where the Indians had made their encampments. We, 
 however, saw trails where they are accustomed to travel, 
 crossing this branch and leading south towards the Brazos ; 
 indeed, a party with about fifty horses and mules had trav- 
 elled along the bed of the Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, through the 
 gorge to the head of the river, but a short time previous to our 
 passing. 
 
 The military posts already established upon the southwes- 
 tern borders of Texas, with the two occupied by the fifth in- 
 fantry in the direction of the headwaters of the Brazos, un- 
 doubtedly exercise a good influence over the southern Co- 
 manches who frequent that section ; but there is a vast tract 
 of country to the north of this, extending across Red river and 
 the Canadian to the Arkansas, where there is no military post 
 until reaching Fort Atkinson, upon the Santa Fe trace. Fort 
 Arbuckle and Fort Scott are near the settlements, and they 
 are now entirely out of the range of the prairie tribes. The 
 northern and middle Comanches and the Kioways occupy this 
 country, and go and come when and where they choose with- 
 out the knowledge of any of our military authorities. These 
 Indians probably commit more depredations upon the northern 
 
SITES FOR A MILITARY POST. 95 
 
 provinces of Mexico than any others. In passing back and 
 forth upon these forays, they were formerly in the habit of 
 taking a route crossing the Brazos and Colorado rivers, in the 
 vicinity of some of the military posts in Western Texas ; but 
 since they have become acquainted with the localities of these 
 posts, I have been informed by the Indians that they were so 
 much harassed by the troops as to cause them to change their 
 route ; and now they generally pass to the north and west, 
 entirely around this chain of posts. 
 
 It is a well known fact, that whenever depredations have 
 been committed by the Indians along the western borders of 
 Texas, the perpetrators have almost invariably come from the 
 north and returned in that direction ; and when pursued, their 
 trace has generally been found to lead towards Red river, in 
 the direction of the western extremity of the Witchita chain 
 of mountains. Such was the fact in the recent instances 
 where animals were stolen from the posts upon the Brazos ; 
 and I cannot but believe, if there had been a garrison at 
 some point upon Red river in the vicinity of the mountains, 
 that the stolen animals might in a majority of cases have been 
 recovered, and the authors of the depredations detected. 
 Heretofore the troops stationed upou the Brazos, when sent in 
 pursuit of Indians who had stolen animals, have followed thern 
 until their provisions were consumed, and have then been 
 obliged to abandon the trail and turn back before coming near 
 them ; whereas, if they had started out from a post upon Red 
 river, they would probably have been enabled to carry provi- 
 sions sufficient to have served them until they could have 
 reached the encampments where the freebooters had left their 
 families. 
 
 A garrison established near the western extremity of the 
 Witchita range of mountains would be in the heart of the 
 Comanche country, and near the point where they cross Red 
 river upon their marauding expeditions into Texas and Mexico. 
 
 The military authorities stationed here would have an op- 
 portunity of becoming acquainted with the chiefs, and with 
 the character and habits of the Indians frequenting this section, 
 and would have greater facilities for gaining their confidence 
 and removing the unfavorable impression which they have 
 heretofore entertained towards Americans. Believing that 
 our government contemplates taking their hunting-grounds 
 from them, they have always been suspicious of the motives 
 of the whites who have visited their country ; so much so, 
 that upon one occasion they massacred a party of twenty men 
 
96 WAGON-TRACE TO SANTA FE. 
 
 who attempted to survey a tract of land in Western Texas. 
 They desire, therefore, to remain as far as possible away from 
 the white settlements. 
 
 _ If troops were quartered in their country anywhere in the 
 vicinity of the point I have mentioned, the Indians would by 
 degrees become familiarized to their presence, and in time 
 learn that instead of doing them injustice, the policy of our 
 government towards them is such as would ultimately con- 
 duce to their welfare and prosperity. 
 
 At almost any point throughout the Witchita mountains, all 
 the requisites for building and sustaining a military post are 
 found in great profusion. The quality of the timber, soil, and 
 water, are all far superior to that, near the posts upon the Bra- 
 zos river ; and I firmly believe there is no more salubrious 
 climate in the universe. 
 
 In my humble judgment, in view of what has been said, a 
 military post established in the vicinity of these mountains, 
 and garrisoned by a force of sufficient strength to command 
 the respect of the Indians, would add more to the efficiency 
 of the army in checking their depredations than any other po- 
 sition that is now occupied by the troops in Western Texas* 
 This post would be about one hundred and forty miles distant 
 from Fort Arbuckle ; two hundred miles from Fort Washita ; 
 and one hundred and twenty from Fort Belknap ; and being 
 near Red river, (which it is believed will prove navigable, at 
 a good stage of water, nearly as high as this point,) the 
 troops could probably be furnished with supplies at a lower 
 rate than at any of the military posts in this part of the coun- 
 try equi-distant from the seacoast. 
 
 Should it become necessary to march troops or transport 
 supplies between the military posts upon the headwaters of 
 the Brazos and Santa Fe. a better route cannot be desired for 
 wagons than the one we have followed from Fort Belknap to 
 the confluence of Cache creek, continuing up the north fork of 
 Red river to near its source in the Staked Plain, and thence 
 across in a northwesterly direction to the Canadian river, 
 upon the south bank of which will be found a distinctly- 
 marked wagon-trace, travelled by California emigrants in the 
 summer of 1849, which leads in a very direct course, over 
 firm and smooth ground, to Santa Fe. There is a bountiful 
 supply of all that is essential to the comfort of the traveller 
 and his animals upon this route ; and good wood, water, and 
 grass, are found so abundantly along the entire distance, 
 that he need not make a single encampment without them 
 
HEAD OF NAVIGATION. 97 
 
 all. The distance, measured along the route over which we 
 travelled, from Fort Belknap to the mouth of Cache creek, is 
 one hundred and twenty miles ; from this point to the head of 
 the north fork of Red river is two hundred and thirty-seven 
 miles ; to the Canadian, twenty-five miles ; thence to Santa 
 Fe, two hundred and ninety-five miles ; making the aggregate 
 distance between the termini six hundred and seventy-seven 
 miles. These distances, as far as the Canadian, are measured 
 upon the route over which we travelled in our explorations ; 
 and although its general course is reasonably direct, it is in 
 some places circuitous, and could probably be shortened so 
 as to reduce the distance to about six hundred and forty 
 miles. The navigation of Red river with steamers of light 
 draught is practicable at all times to Shreveport ; and about 
 four months of the year they have ascended without difficulty 
 to Fort Towson. 
 
 During the past season, at a time when the river was at a 
 low stage, a steamer drawing three and a half feet of water 
 had no difficulty in ascending as high as Preston, near the 
 confluence of the Washita. Several boats had previously 
 reached this point upon the river ; but as there are but few 
 settlements above here, there has as yet been no inducements 
 held out for boats to attempt the navigation of the river any 
 higher. I am confident, however, from what I have seen ot 
 Upper Red river, that at a medium stage there will be suffi- 
 cient depth of water for small steamers, such as ply upon 
 some of the tributaries to the Mississippi, to ascend the river 
 as high as where the two principal branches unite, (about 
 fifty miles above the mouth of Cache creek.) As an evidence 
 of this, on our outward march, at a time when the river was 
 at a high stage, I had occasion for crossing frequently, but 
 could find no place below the point mentioned where the 
 water in the channel was of less depth than five feet ; indeed, 
 I do not think as many obstructions will be found above Pres- 
 ton as below, for the reason that there is but little woodland 
 bordering upon the upper portion of the river, and conse- 
 quently but few of those formidable obstacles called snags. 
 
 At a low stage the water in the river becomes very shallow, 
 and can then be forded at any point. But during high water, 
 the quicksands in the bed of the stream become loose and un- 
 stable, and make it hazardous to attempt a passage with 
 animals. It was observed throughout that portion of the 
 valley of the river which came under our observation, that it 
 was bordered upon each side by three distinct terraces or 
 7 
 
98 WATER. 
 
 benches running parallel with the course of the stream. The 
 first of these is from three to six feet high, from fifty to two 
 hundred feet wide, and in places subject to overflow. The 
 second, which is from ten to twenty feet above the first, is 
 from two to five hundred feet wide, and is never submerged. 
 The third varies from fifty to three hundred feet in elevation 
 above the second, and forms the elevated line of bluffs that 
 terminate the prairie lands adjacent to the valley. 
 
 In many places between the upper extremity of the Wit- 
 chita mountains and the sources of the river, we found con- 
 tinuous chains of sand-hills, from twenty to fifty feet high, 
 bordering the valley, and denuded of all herbage save a few 
 plum-bushes and grape-vines. Although there is some good 
 soil upon the small affluents to the main river, the country 
 generally, immediately bordering it, is barren and sandy. 
 
 Several erroneous opinions have for many years been en- 
 tertained in regard to the country upon the headwaters of 
 Red river. For instance, it has generally been supposed, 
 from the circumstance of a heavy rise occurring in the river 
 during the month of June, at a time when there is generally 
 no rain in the settlements, and during the dry season upon 
 the plains, that the sources of the river would be found in 
 lofty mountain ranges, where the melting snows would ac- 
 count for the great amount of water passing through the chan- 
 nel at the season mentioned. But such is not the fact, as all 
 the principal branches above Cache creek have their origin 
 in the eastern borders of the table-lands of New Mexico, 
 where there are no mountains. We, however, observed fre- 
 quent copious rains in the vicinity of the Wichita mountains 
 during the season of the June flood ; and I am of the opinion 
 that here is the source whence much of the water is derived. 
 
 As the water in the river has a very bitter and disagreeable 
 taste, it has been conjectured that it passed in its course 
 through extensive salt plains ; but this I also found to be an 
 error. We saw no deposite of chloride of sodium in the vicin- 
 ity of the river ; the peculiar taste being communicated by 
 ingredients that it receives in flowing for a hundred miles 
 over a gypsum formation. An analysis of this water, under 
 the direction of Dr. Clark of Amherst College, gives the fol- 
 lowing results, from which it will be seen that the per-centage 
 of salt is small :* 
 
 *I have understood, since our return, that the Indians have recently dis- 
 covered a deposite of salt (chloride of sodium) about three miles to the south 
 of our return route, near the western extremity of the Witchita mountains. 
 
GYPSUM BEDS. 99 
 
 Weight of water in fluid ounces ------ 4. 
 
 Weight of water in fluid grames ------ 127. 
 
 Weight of chlorine present -------- .051 
 
 Weight of lime ----------- .033 
 
 Weight of sulphuric acid -------- .095 
 
 Sulphates of soda and magnesia ------ .168 
 
 Regarding the lime as a sulphate, and the residue of sul- 
 phuric acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as 
 united with the sodium, we have the following results : 
 
 Weight of sulphate of lime -------- .080 
 
 Weight of sulphate of magnesia ------ .073 
 
 Weight of chloride of sodium ------ .084 
 
 Weight of the whole --------- .237 
 
 Per-centage of matter in solution ------ 19 
 
 This gypsum range forms an immense belt, which extends 
 across the country for some four or five hundred miles. CoL 
 Long speaks of seeing it upon the Arkansas ; and I have my- 
 self passed through it at lour other different points south of 
 this, embracing a range of some three hundred miles. It is 
 regarded by Dr. Hitchcock as the most extensive deposit of 
 this mineral in North America. I have everywhere found it 
 characterized by the same peculiarities, with the water issuing 
 from it invariably bitter and unpalatable. 
 
 The Arkansas, Canadian, Brazos, Colorado, and Pecos rivers. 
 pass through the formation, and a similar taste is imparted to 
 the waters of all. Several of these also have their sources in 
 the same elevated table-lands as Red river, and where they 
 make their exit from this plateau their beds are confined to 
 vast sluices or cartons, the sides of which rise very abruptly 
 to an enormous height above the surface of the water. The 
 foaren mesa, in which these streams take their rise, extends 
 from the Canadian river, in a southerly course, to near the 
 confluence of the Pecos with the Rio Grande, some four hun- 
 dred miles, between the 32d and 37th parallels of north lati- 
 tude. It is in places nearly two hundred miles in width, and 
 is embraced within the 101st and 104th meridians of west 
 longitude. The approximate elevation of this plain above 
 
 the sea, as determined with the barometer, is two thousand 
 four hundred and fifty feet. It is much elevated above the 
 surrounding country, ver}^ smooth and level, and spreads out 
 
100 LLANO ESTACADO. 
 
 in every direction as far as the eye can penetrate, without a 
 tree, shrub, or any other herbage to intercept the vision. The 
 traveller, in passing over it, sees nothing but one vast, dreary, 
 and monotonous waste of barren solitude. It is an ocean of 
 desert prairie, where the voice of man is seldom heard, and 
 where no living being permanently resides. The almost total 
 absence of water causes all animals to shun it : even the In- 
 dians do not venture to cross it except at two or three points, 
 where they find a few small ponds of water. I was told in 
 New Mexico that, many years since, the Mexicans marked 
 out a route with stakes across this plain, where they found 
 water ; and hence the name by which it is known throughout 
 Mexico, of " El Llano Eslacado," or the " Staked Plain." 
 
INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY. 101 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Indians of the country — Habits of the Comanches and Kioways — Similarity be- 
 tween them and the Arabs and Tartars — Predatory excursions into Mexico — 
 War Implements — Incredulity regarding the customs of the Whites — Method 
 of saluting Strangers — Degraded condition of the Women — Aversion to ar- 
 dent spirits — Prairie Indians contrasted with Indians of the Eastern States — 
 Buffaloes — Probable condition of the Indians upon the extermination of the 
 Buffaloes — Pernicious influences of Traders — Superstitions of the Natives, 
 
 The country over which we passed is frequented by seve- 
 ral tribes of Indians, who follow the buffalo, and subsist al- 
 most exclusively upon the uncertain products of the chase. 
 The Witchitas, Wacos, Kechies, and Quapaws, all resort to 
 the country about the Witchita mountains, where a few years 
 since they had their thatched villages and corn-fields, but 
 they have recently removed near the white settlements. The 
 Witchitas and Wacos, as before stated, are now living upon 
 Rush creek, while the Kechies and Quapaws are upon Chou- 
 teau's creek, an affluent of the Canadian. The Witchitas and 
 Kechies each number about one hundred warriors ; the Wacos 
 about eighty ; and the Quapaws only about twenty-five. 
 They all use the horse in their hunting and war expeditions, 
 and are possessed of a good supply of these animals. The 
 history of the Quapaws, a minute remnant of what was once 
 a large and powerful nation of Indians, called the "Arkan- 
 sas," but now only numbering a very few lodges of miserable 
 half-starved beggars, is truly melancholy. Father Charle- 
 voix, in his " Historical Journal of a Voyage down the Mis- 
 sissippi," speaks of visiting them, and found them at that 
 time very numerous and warlike. He says of them : " The 
 Arkansas, or Quapaws, are reckoned to be the tallest and 
 best-shaped of all the savages of this continent, and they are 
 called, by way of distinction, 'the fine men.'" He describes 
 them as occupying at the time of his visit four villages, one of 
 which was upon the Mississippi, a short distance above the 
 mouth of the Arkansas. They were, according to him, com- 
 posed of the confederated remnants of several ruined nations. 
 
 In the time of Du Pratz these Indians had all moved up the 
 
102 SALUBRITY OF THE PLAINS. 
 
 Arkansas, and were living about twelve miles from the mouth 
 of White river : the}^ were then quite numerous, and he com- 
 pliments them by saying that they were no less distinguished 
 as warriors than hunters, and that they were the first nation 
 that succeeded in conquering the warlike and numerous 
 Chickasaws. It is related that upon one occasion they en- 
 countered the Chickasaws, who, in consequence of having no 
 powder, considered it most prudent to make a precipitate re- 
 treat ; whereupon the Quapaw chief, understanding the cause, 
 determined they should be placed on an equality, and ordered 
 all his warriors to empty their powder-horns into a blanket, 
 and making an equal division of the powder, he gave one-half 
 to his enemies. The battle then commenced, and in a short 
 time terminated with a signal defeat of the Chickasaws, who 
 retreated with a loss of ten killed and five prisoners, while the 
 Quapaws only lost one man. They were also distinguished 
 for their friendship to the early settlers along the Arkansas 
 river, and it is much to be deplored that this once numerous 
 and valorous nation is so fast approaching annihilation. The 
 two most numerous and powerful tribes of Indians frequent- 
 ing the country upon Upper Red river are the Comanches 
 and Kioways ; the former range from the Witchita mountains 
 to the sources of the river, while the latter occasionally visit 
 the headwaters, but seldom come as far down as the moun- 
 tains. These tribes have similar habits, but speak different 
 languages. The most numerous and warlike nation is that of 
 the Comanches, who are separated into three distinct local 
 grand divisions, namely ; the Northern, Middle, and Southern; 
 each of these is subdivided into several bands, commanded by 
 separate chiefs. 
 
 The Northern and Middle Comanches subsist almost entire- 
 ly upon the flesh of the buffalo ; they are known among the 
 other Indians as " buffalo-eaters," and are generally found at 
 their heels, migrating with them from place to place upon 
 those vast and inhospitable plains of the West, the greater 
 portion of which are incapable of cultivation, and seem des- 
 tined in the future, as in the past, to be the abode of the wan- 
 dering savage, possessing as they do, so few attractions to 
 civilized man. This vast district, however, exhibits one char- 
 acteristic which compensates for many of its asperities : per- 
 haps no part of the habitable globe is more favorable to 
 human existence, so far as the atmosphere is concerned, than 
 this. Free from marshes, stagnant water, great bodies of 
 timber, and all other sources of poisonous malaria, and open 
 
SKILL IN HORSEMANSHIP. 103 
 
 to every wind that blows, this immense grassy expanse is 
 purged from impurities of every kind, and the air imparts a 
 force and vigor to the body and mind which repays the occu- 
 pant in a great measure for his deprivations. Nature, which 
 almost everywhere exhibits some compensation to man for 
 great hardships, has here conferred upon him health, the first 
 and best of her gifts. It is a fact worthy of remark, that man 
 in whatever situation he may be placed, is influenced in his 
 modes of existence, his physical and moral condition, by the 
 natural resources of climate, soil, and other circumstances 
 around him, over the operations of which he has no control. 
 Fortunately, such is the flexibility of his nature that he soon 
 learns to adapt himself to the hardest and most untoward cir- 
 cumstances, and indeed, ultimately becomes not only recon- 
 ciled to his lot, but persuades himself that his condition is far 
 preferable to that of most others. 
 
 The example of our western-border settlers is illustrative of 
 this fact, as they continue to remove farther and farther west 
 as the settlements encroach upon them, preferring a life of 
 dangerous adventure and solitude to personal security and 
 the comforts and enjoyments of society ; and what was at first 
 necessity to them becomes in time a source of excitement and 
 pleasure. 
 
 The nomadic Indian of the prairies demonstrates the posi- 
 tion still more forcibly: free as the boundless plains over 
 which he roams, he neither knows nor wants any luxuries 
 beyond what he finds in the buffalo or the deer around him. 
 These serve him with food, clothing, and a covering for his 
 lodge, and he sighs not for the titles and distinctions which 
 occupy the thoughts and engage the energies of civilized man. 
 His only ambition consists in being able to cope successfully 
 with his enemy in war, and in managing his steed with unfail- 
 ing adroitness. He is in the saddle from boyhood to old age, 
 and his favorite horse is his constant companion. It is when 
 mounted that the Comanche exhibits himself to the best ad- 
 vantage: here he is at home, and his skill in various manoeu- 
 vres which he makes available in battle — such as throwing 
 himself entirely upon one side of his horse, and discharging 
 his arrows with great rapidity towards the opposite side from 
 beneath the animal's neck while he is at full speed — is truly 
 astonishing.^ Many of the women are equally expert, as eques- 
 trians, with the men. They ride upon the same saddles and 
 in the same manner, with a leg upon each side of the horse. 
 As an example of their skill in horsemanship, two young wo- 
 
104 ATTACHMENT TO THEIR HORSES 
 
 men of one of the bands of the Northern Comanches, while we 
 were encamped near them, upon seeing some antelopes at a 
 distance from their camp, mounted horses, and, with lassos in 
 their hands, set off at full speed in pursuit of this fleetest in- 
 habitant of the plains. After pursuing them for some distance, 
 and taking all the advantages which their circuitous course 
 permitted, they finally came near them, and, throwing the 
 lasso with unerring precision, secured each animal and brought 
 it back in triumph to the camp. Every warrior has his war- 
 horse, which is the fleetest that can be obtained, and he prizes 
 him more highly than anything else in his possession, and it is 
 seldom that he can be induced to part with him at any price. 
 He never mounts him except when going into battle, the buf- 
 falo chase, or upon state occasions. On his return from an 
 excursion he is met at the door of his lodge by one of his 
 wives, who takes his horse and attends to its wants with the 
 utmost care. The prairie warrior performs no menial labor ; 
 his only occupation is in war and the chase. His wives, who 
 are but little dearer to him than his horse, perform all the 
 drudgery. He follows the chase, he smokes his pipe, he eats 
 and sleeps ; and thus he passes his time, and in his own esti- 
 mation he is the most lordly and independent sovereign in the 
 universe. Such are some of the characteristics of the prairie 
 Indians ; and I cannot dismiss the subject without remarking 
 that, in addition to the physical similitude between the deserts 
 of Arabia, the steppes of Central Asia, and the prairie mesas 
 of our own country, a very striking resemblance is also ob- 
 served in the habits and customs of the respective inhabitants. 
 The Arabs of the desert, the Tartar tribes, and the aboriginal 
 occupants of the prairies, are alike wanderers, having no per- 
 manent abiding-places, transporting their lodges wherever 
 they go, and where these are pitched there are their homes. 
 They permit no authorities to control them but such as re- 
 ceive the unanimous sanction of the masses, and the rule of 
 their leaders is guided by the counsels of their old men, who 
 in many cases allay dissensions and curb the impetuosity of 
 ambitious young warriors, whose thirst for fame would often 
 involve the nation in protracted wars. Thus their govern- 
 ment is patriarchal, guided by mature and fraternal counsels. 
 They are insensible to the wants and comforts of civilization ; 
 they know neither poverty nor riches, vice nor virtue, and are 
 alike exempt from the deplorable vicissitudes of fortune. 
 Theirs is a happy state of equality, which knows not the per- 
 plexities of ambition nor the crimes of avarice. They never 
 
GOVERNMENT. 105 
 
 cultivate the soil, but subsist altogether upon game and what 
 they can steal. They are alike the most expert horsemen in 
 the world, and possess the same fond attachment for the ani- 
 mal. I once made an effort to purchase a favorite horse from 
 a chief of one of the bands of the Southern Comanches, (Se- 
 na-co,) and offered him a large price, but he could not be 
 persuaded to part with him. He said the animal was one of 
 the fleetest in their possession, and if he were to sell him it 
 would prove a calamity to his whole band, as it often required 
 all the speed of this animal to insure success in the buffalo 
 chase ; that his loss would be felt by all his people, and he 
 would be regarded as very foolish; moreover, he said, (pat- 
 ting his favorite on the neck,) " I love him very much." 
 
 The only property of these people, with the exception of a 
 few articles belonging to their domestic economy, consists en- 
 tirely in horses and mules, of which they possess great num- 
 bers. These are mostly pillaged from the Mexicans, as is 
 evident from the brand which is found upon them. The most 
 successful horse-thieves among them own from fifty to two 
 hundred animals. 
 
 In their political and domestic relations there is also a simi- 
 larity to the Old World nomads. They are governed by a 
 chief, the tenure of whose office is hereditary, so long as his 
 administration meets the approbation of his followers. He 
 leads them to war, and presides at their deliberations in coun- 
 cil ; but should he disgrace himself by any act of cowardice 
 or mal-administration, they do not hesitate to depose him and 
 place a more competent man in his stead. Their laws are 
 such as are adapted to their peculiar situation, and are sanc- 
 tioned by the voice of the people. Their execution is vested 
 in the subordinate chiefs, or captains, as they are called, and 
 they are promptly and rigidly enforced. In respect to the 
 rights of property, their code is strictly Spartan. They are 
 perhaps as arrant freebooters as can be found upon the face 
 of the earth ; and they regard stealing from strangers as per- 
 fectly legitimate and honorable, and that man who has been 
 most successful in this is the most highly honored by his tribe ; 
 indeed, a young man who has not made one or more of these 
 expeditions into Mexico is held in but little repute. In evi- 
 dence of this, I was told by an old chief of the Northern Co- 
 manches, called Is-sa-keep, that he was the father of four 
 sons, who he said were as fine young men as could be found ; 
 that they were a great source of comfort to him in his old age, 
 
108 FORAYS OP THE INDIANS. 
 
 and could steal more horses than any other young men in his 
 band. 
 
 As these forays are often attended with much toil and dan- 
 ger, they are called " war expeditions." It not unfrequently 
 happens that but six or eight young men set out upon one of 
 these adventures, and the only outfit they require is a horse, 
 with their war equipments, consisting of the bow and arrows, 
 lance and shield, with occasionally a gun. Thus prepared, 
 they set out upon a journey of a thousand miles or more, 
 through a perfectly wild and desolate country, dependent for 
 subsistence wholly upon such game as they may chance to 
 find. They make their way to the northern provinces of 
 Mexico, where they lie in wait near some hacienda until a 
 favorable opportunity offers to sweep down upon a solitary 
 herdsman, and, with the most terrific yells, drive before them 
 all the animals they desire. Wo to the panic-stricken ranchero 
 who fails to make a precipitate retreat, as they invariably kill 
 such men as offer the slightest ^pediment to their operations, 
 and take women and children prisoners, whom they ho]d in 
 bondage of the most servile character. They are sometimes 
 absent from their tribes two years or more before their success 
 is sufficient to justify their returning with credit to them- 
 selves. 
 
 The use of the bow, which is the favorite arm and con- 
 stant appendage of the prairie Indian, and which he makes 
 use of exclusively in hunting the buffalo, is taught the boys 
 at a very early age ; and by constant and careful practice, 
 they acquire a degree of proficiency in the art that renders 
 them, when grown up to manhood, formidable in war, as well 
 as successful in the chase. Their bows are made of the tough 
 and elastic wood of the "bois d'arc," or Osage orange (Ma- 
 dura aurantiaca) strengthened and reinforced with the sinews 
 of the deer wrapped firmly around them, and strung with a 
 cord made of the same material. They are not more than 
 one-half the length of the old English long-bow, which was 
 said to have been sixteen hands' breadth in length. The ar- 
 rows are twenty inches long, of flexible wood, with a trian- 
 gular point of iron at one end, and two feathers, intersecting 
 each other at right angles, at the opposite extremity. At 
 short distances the bow, in the hands of the Indian, is effec- 
 tive, and frequently throws the arrow entirely through the 
 huge carcass of the buffalo. In using this instrument, the 
 Indian warrior protects himself from the missiles of his enemy 
 with a shield of circular form, covered with two thicknesses 
 
COMANCHE DRESS. 
 
 of hard, undressed buffalo-hide, separated by a space of about 
 an inch, which is stuffed with hair ; this is fastened to the left 
 arm by two bands, in such a manner as not to interfere with 
 the free use of the hand, and offers such resistance that a 
 rifle-ball will not penetrate it unless it strikes perpendicular to 
 tire surface. They also make use of a war-club, made by 
 bending a withe around a hard stone of about two pounds 
 weight, which has been previously prepared with a groove in 
 which the withe fits, and is thereby prevented from slipping 
 off. The handle is about fourteen inches long, and bound 
 with buffalo-hide. 
 
 — -The Comanche men are about the medium stature, with 
 bright, copper-colored complexions and intelligent counte- 
 nances, in many instances with aquiline noses, thin lips, black 
 eyes and hair, with but little beard. They never cut the 
 hair, but wear it of very great length, and ornament it upon 
 state occasions with silver and beads. Their dress consists 
 of leggins and moccasins, with a cloth wrapped around the 
 loins. The body is generally naked above the middle, except 
 when covered with the buffalo-robe, which is a constant ap- 
 pendage to their wardrobe. y" The women are short, with 
 crooked legs, and are obliged to crop their hair close to their 
 heads. They wear, in addition to the leggins and moccasins, 
 a skirt of dressed deer-skin. They also tattoo their faces and 
 breasts, and are far from being as good looking as the men. 
 
 Notwithstanding that these people are hospitable and kind 
 to strangers, and apparently amiable in their dispositions, yet, 
 when a warrior conceives himself injured, his thirst for re- 
 venge knows no satiety. Grave and dignified in his deport- 
 ment, and priding himself upon his coolness of temper and 
 the control of his passions, yet, when once provoked, he, like 
 the majority of his race, is implacable and unrelenting; an 
 affront is laid up and cherished in his breast, and nothing can 
 efface it from his mind until ample reparation has been made. 
 He has no idea of forgiveness : the insult must be atoned for 
 by blood. With many tribes, quarrels can often be settled by 
 presents to the injured party; but with the Comanches, their 
 law of equity is of such a character that no reconciliation can 
 take place until the reproach is wiped out with the blood of 
 their enemy.'! They make no use of money except for 
 ornaments. Like other tribes, they are fond of decking them- 
 selves with paint, beads, and feathers ; and the young warrior 
 often spends more time at his toilet than the most conceited 
 coxcomb that can be found in civilized life. Bright red and 
 
IUo IDEA OF THEIR OWN SUPERIORITY. 
 
 blue are their favorite colors ; and vermilion is an important 
 article in the stock of goods of one of their traders. This 
 they always carry about their persons; and whenever they 
 expect to meet strangers, they always (provided they have 
 time) make their toilet with care, and paint their faces. Some 
 few of their chiefs who have visited their Great Father at 
 Washington, have returned strongly impressed with the nu- 
 merical power and prosperity of the whites; but the great 
 majority of them being entirely ignorant of everything thai 
 relates to us, and the most of them having never even seen a 
 white man, believe the Comanches to be the most powerful 
 nation in existence ; and the relation of facts which conflict 
 with this notion, by their own people, to the masses of the 
 tribes at their prairie firesides, only subjects the narrator to 
 ridicule, and he is set down as one whose brain has been 
 turned by the necromancy of the pale-faces, and is thence- 
 forth regarded as wholly unworthy of confidence. 
 
 Having upon one occasion a Delaware and a Comanche 
 with me in the capacity of guides, I was much diverted with 
 a conversation that passed between them in my presence, and 
 which was interpreted to me by the Delaware. It appeared 
 that the latter had stated to the other the fact of the sphericity 
 of the earth's surface. This idea being altogether new and 
 incomprehensible to the Comanche, was received with much 
 incredulity, and, after gazing a moment intently at the Dela- 
 ware to ascertain if he were sincere, he asked if that person 
 took him for a child, or if he looked like an idiot. The Dela- 
 ware said no ; but that the white people, who knew all about 
 these things, had ascertained such to be the fact; and added, 
 that the world was not only round, but that it revolved in its 
 orbit around the sun. The Comanche very indignantly replied, 
 that any man of sense could, by looking off upon the prairie, 
 see at a glance that the earth was perfectly level; and, more- 
 over, that his grandfather had been west to the end of it, 
 where the sun disappeared behind a vertical wall. The 
 Delaware continued, in his simple but impressive manner, to 
 describe to the Comanche the steam-engine, with other ob- 
 jects of interest he had seen among the whites, all of which 
 the Comanche regarded as the product of a fertile imagina- 
 tion, expressly designed to deceive him; and the only reply 
 that he deigned to make was an occasional exclamation in his 
 own language, the interpretation of which the Delaware pro- 
 nounced to be, " Hush, you fool!" I then endeavored to ex- 
 plain to the Delaware the operation of the magnetic telegraph, 
 
EECEPTION OF STANGERS. 109 
 
 and, in illustration of its practical utility, stated to him that a 
 message could be sent a distance of one thousand miles, and 
 an answer returned, in the short space of ten minutes' time. 
 He seemed much interested in this, and listened attentively 
 to my remarks, but made no comments until I requested him 
 to explain it to the Comanche, when he said, "I don't think I 
 tell him that, Captain ; for the truth is, I don't believe it my- 
 self." 
 
 The mode of life of the prairie tribes, owing to their un- 
 settled and wandering habits, is such as to render their condi- 
 tion one of constant danger and apprehension. The security 
 of their numerous animals from the encroachments of their 
 enemies, and their constant liability to attacks, make it imper- 
 atively necessary for them to be at all times upon the alerts 
 Their details for herdsmen are made with as much regularity 
 as the guard-details at a military post; and even in times of 
 the most profound peace, they guard their animals both night 
 and day, while scouts are often patrolling upon the adjoining 
 heights to give notice of the approach of strangers, when their 
 animals are hurried to a place of security, and everything 
 made ready for defence. The manner in which they salute 
 a stranger is somewhat peculiar, as my own reception at one 
 of their encampments will show. The chief at this encamp- 
 ment was a very corpulent old man, with exceedingly scanty 
 attire, who, immediately on our approach, declared himself a 
 great friend of the Americans, and persisted in giving me 
 evidence of his sincerity by an embrace, which, to please 
 him, I forced myself to submit to, although it was far from 
 agreeable to my own feelings. Seizing me in his brawny 
 arms while we were yet in the saddle, and laying his greasy 
 head upon my shoulder, he inflicted upon me a most bruin- 
 like squeeze, which I endured with a degree of patient forti- 
 tude worthy of the occasion; and I was consoling myself 
 upon the completion of the salutation, when the savage 
 again seized me in his arms, and I was doomed to another 
 similar torture, with his head on my other shoulder, while at 
 the same time he rubbed his greasy face against mine in the 
 most affectionate manner; all of which proceeding, he gave 
 me to understand, was to be regarded as a most distinguished 
 and signal mark of affection for the American people in gen- 
 eral, whom, as he expressed it, he loved so much that it almost 
 broke his heart; and in particular for myself, who, as their 
 representative, can bear testimony to the strength of his attach- 
 ment. On leaving his camp, the chief shook me heartily by 
 
HOSTILITY TO NEGROES. 
 
 the hand, telling me at the same time that he was not a Co- 
 manche, but an American ; and as I did not feel disposed to 
 be outdone in politeness by an Indian, I replied in the same 
 spirit, that there was not a drop of Anglo-Saxon blood in my 
 veins, but that T was wholly and absolutely a Comanche, at 
 which he seemed delighted, duly understanding and appre- 
 ciating the compliment. These people are hospitable and 
 kind to all with whom they are not at war ; and on the arrival 
 of a stranger at their camps a lodge is prepared for him, and 
 he is entertained as long as he chooses to remain among them. 
 They are also kind and affectionate to each other, and as long 
 as anything comestible remains in the camp all are permitted 
 to share alike ; but with these exceptions, they are possessed 
 of but few virtues. Polygamy is sanctioned, and is very 
 common among them, every man being allowed as many 
 wives as he can support. 
 
 Within the past few years the Comanches have (for what 
 reason I could not learn) taken an inveterate dislike to the 
 negroes, and have massacred several small parties of those 
 who attempted to escape from the Seminoles and cross the 
 plains for the purpose of joining Wild Cat upon the Rio 
 Grande. Upon inquiring of them the cause of their hostility 
 to the blacks, they replied that it was because they were 
 .slaves to the whites ; that they were sorry for them. I sus- 
 pect, however, that they were actuated by other motives than 
 they cared about acknowledging, and that instead of wishing 
 to better their condition by sending them to another world, 
 where they would be released from the fetters of bondage, 
 they were apprehensive, if they permitted them to pass 
 quietly, that in time Wild Cat's followers upon the Rio 
 Grande would augment to such a degree that he would inter- 
 fere with their marauding operations along the Mexican bor- 
 ders. During the past year they have also been hostile 
 towards the Delawares and Shawnees, and have killed sev- 
 eral individuals who have been into their country in small 
 parties. The Creek Indians, who exercise a good influence 
 over the prairie tribes, have counselled them to commit no 
 further acts of hostility upon these Indians, and I presume 
 they will take measures to enforce a strict adherence to their 
 wishes in this respect. These people, who are so extremely 
 jealous of their own freedom that they will often commit sui- 
 cide rather than be taken prisoners, are the more prone to 
 enslave others, and this dominant principle is carried to the 
 greatest extreme so far as regards their women. A beast of 
 
DIET OF THE COMANCHES. Ill 
 
 burden and a slave to the will of her brutal master, yet, 
 strange as it may appear, the Comanche woman seems con- 
 tented with her lot, and submits to her fate without a mur- 
 mur. The hardships imposed upon the females are most 
 severe and cruel. The distance of rank and consideration 
 which exists between the black slave and his master is not 
 greater than between the Comanche warrior and his wife. 
 Every degrading office that is imposed upon the black by the 
 most tyrannical master, falls, among the Comanches, to the 
 lot of the wretched female. They, in common with other 
 Indians, are not a prolific race ; indeed, it is seldom that a 
 woman has more than three or four children. Many of these, 
 owing to unavoidable exposure, die young ; the boys, how- 
 ever, are nurtured with care and treated with great kindness 
 by their mothers, while the girls are frequently beaten and 
 abused unmercifully. I have never seen an idiot, or one that 
 was naturally deformed, among them. , 
 
 Of all the Indians I had before encountered, there were 
 none who had not an extreme fondness for spirituous liquors. 
 The prairie tribes that I have seen, say the taste of such 
 liquor is not pleasant ; that it makes fools of them, and that 
 they do not desire it. If there are exceptions to this, I think 
 they may be set down as factitious rather than natural ; the 
 appetite having been created by occasional indulgence in the 
 use of a little at a time. 
 
 The diet of these people is very simple ; from infancy to 
 old age their only food, with the exception of a few wild 
 plants which they find on the prairies, is fresh meat, of which, 
 in times of plenty, they consume enormous quantities. In 
 common with many other tribes, they can, when necessity 
 demands it, abstain from eating for several days without in- 
 convenience, and they are enabled to make up at one meal 
 the deficieney. All of them are extravagantly fond of tobac- 
 co, which they use for smoking, mixed with the dried leaves 
 of the sumach, inhaling the smoke into their lungs, and giv- 
 ing it out through their nostrils. Their language is verbal 
 and pantomimic. The former consists of a very limited num- 
 ber of words™ some of which are common to all the prairie 
 tribes. The latter, which is exceedingly graceful and expres- 
 sive, is the court language of the plains, and is used and un- 
 derstood with great facility and accuracy by all the tribes 
 from the Gila to the Columbia ; the motions and signs to ex- 
 press ideas being common to all. In contemplating the char- 
 acter of the prairie Indian, and the striking similarity be- 
 
112 TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 
 
 tween him and the Arab and Tartar, we are not less aston- 
 ished at the absolute dissimilarity between these and the ab- 
 original inhabitants of the eastern States. The latter, from 
 the time of the discovery of the country, lived in permanent 
 villages, where they cultivated fields of corn, and possessed 
 strong attachment lor their ancestral abodes and sepulchres : 
 they did not use horses, but always made their hunting and 
 war expeditions on foot, and sought the cover of trees on go- 
 ing into battle : while the former have no permanent abiding- 
 places, never cultivate the soil, are always mounted, and 
 never fight a battle except in the open prairie, where they 
 charge boldly up to an enemy, discharge their arrows with 
 great rapidity, and are away before their panic-stricken an- 
 tagonist can prepare to resist or retaliate. In their treatment 
 of prisoners of war there was also a very marked difference. 
 The eastern tribes, although they put their prisoners to tor- 
 tures £>f the most appalling character, seldom, if ever, violate 
 the chastity of the females ; while, on the contrary, the prairie 
 Indians do not put their prisoners to death by prolonged tor- 
 tures, bat invariably compel the females to submit to their 
 lewd embraces. There is at this time a white women among 
 the Middle Comanches, by the name of Parker, who, with 
 her brother, was captured while they were young children, 
 from their father's house in the western part of Texas. This 
 woman has adopted all the habits and peculiarities of the 
 Comanches ; has an Indian husband and children, and can- 
 not be persuaded to leave them. The brother of the woman, 
 who had been ransomed by a trader and brought home to his 
 relatives, was sent back by his mother for the purpose of en- 
 deavoring to prevail upon his sister to leave the Indians and 
 return to her family ; but he stated to me that on his arrival 
 she refused to listen to the proposition, saying that her hus- 
 band, children, and all that she held most dear, were with the 
 Indians, and there she should remain. As the prairie Indians 
 depend almost entirely on the buffalo for a subsistence and 
 for clothing, it becomes a question of much interest, what will 
 be the fate of these people when these animals shall have be- 
 come extinct ? Formerly, buffaloes were found in countless 
 herds over almost the entire northern continent of America, 
 from the 28th to the 50th degree of north latitude, and from 
 the shores of Lake Champlain to the Rocky mountains. As it 
 is important to collect and preserve all facts connected with 
 the history of this interesting and useful animal before the 
 species becomes extinct, I trust I shall be pardoned for intro- 
 
RANGE OF THE BUFFALO. 113 
 
 during a few quotations from authors, touching their early 
 history, which to me appear highly interesting. In a work 
 published at Amsterdam in J 637, called "New English Ca- 
 naan," by Thomas Morton, one of the first settlers of New 
 England, he says : "The Indians have also made description 
 of great heards of well-growne beasts that live about the parts 
 of this lake (Erocoise,) now Lake Champlain, such as the 
 Christian world (until this discovery) hath not bin made ac- 
 quainted with. These beasts are of the bigness of a coice, 
 their flesh being very, good foode, their hides good leather ; 
 their fleeces very useful, being a kind of woole, as fine almost 
 as the woole of the beaver ; and the salvages do make gar- 
 ments thereof. It is tenne yeares since first the relation of these 
 things came to the eares oj»the English." 
 
 It is stated by another author, (Purchas,) that as early as in 
 1613 the adventurers in Virginia discovered a "slow Ttinde of 
 cattell as bigge as kine, which were good meate." 
 
 The limit of the buffalo range on the north has been given 
 differently by different writers. In a work published in Lon- 
 don in 1589, by Hukluyt, it is stated, that in the island of 
 Newfoundland were found " mightie beastes, like to camels in 
 greatness, and their feete were cloven." He then says : " I 
 did see them yams off, not able to discerne them perfectly, but 
 their steps showed that their feete were cloven, and bigger 
 than the feete of camels. I suppose them to be a kind of bvffes, 
 which I read to bee'm the countreys adjacent, and very many in 
 ihefirme land." 
 
 It is supposed by some that these animals may have been 
 the musk-ox. They were found by Captain Franklin as 
 high as 60° north latitude. Although it is doubtful whether 
 the buffalo ever ranged beyond the Rocky mountains, yet 
 they have been found as far west as the western slope. They 
 formerly ranged free and uninterrupted over the boundless 
 plains of the West, only guided in their course by that faith- 
 ful instinct which invariably led them to the freshest and 
 sweetest pastures. Their only enemy then was the Indian, 
 who supplied himself with food and clothing from the im- 
 mense herds around his door ; but would have looked upon 
 it as sacrilege to destroy more than barely sufficient to supply 
 the wants of his family. Thus this monarch of the plains was 
 allowed free range from one end of the continent to the other. 
 But this happy state of things was not destined to continue; 
 an enemy appeared, who made great havoc among them, and 
 in a short time caused a very sensible diminution in their 
 
114 TRAFFIC AMONG THE INDIANS. 
 
 numbers, and much contracted the limits of their wanderings. 
 This enemy was the white man, who, in his steady march, 
 causes the original proprietor of the soil to recede before him, 
 and to diminish in numbers almost as rapidly as the buffalo. 
 Thousands of these animals were annually slaughtered for 
 their skins, and often for their tongues alone ; animals whose 
 flesh is sufficient to afford sustenance to a large number of 
 men are sacrificed to furnish a " bon bouche" for the rich 
 epicure. This wholesale slaughter on the part of the white 
 man, with the number consumed by the Indians, who are 
 constantly on their trail, migrating with them as regularly as 
 the season comes round, with the ravenous wolves, that are 
 always at hand to destroy one of them if wounded, gives the 
 poor beast but little rest or prospect\of permanent existence. 
 It is only eight years since the western borders of Texas 
 abounded with buffaloes ; but now they seldom go south of 
 Red river, and their range upon east and west has also very 
 much contracted within the same time ; so that they are at 
 present confined to a narrow belt of country between the 
 outer settlements and the base of the Rocky mountains. 
 With this rapid diminution in their numbers they must, in the 
 course of a very few years, become exterminated. What will 
 then become of the prairie Indian, who, as I have already re- 
 marked, relies for subsistence, shelter, and clothing on the 
 flesh and hide of this animal ? He must either perish with 
 them, increase his marauding depredations on the Mexicans, 
 or learn to cultivate the soil. As the first law of our nature 
 is self-preservation it is not probable that he will sit down 
 and quietly submit to starvation ; he must, therefore, resort to 
 one of the latter alternatives. But as he has no knowledge 
 of agriculture — considers it the business of a slave, and very 
 much beneath the dignity of a warrior — it appears reasonable 
 to suppose that he will turn his attention to the Mexicans, 
 over whom he has held the mastery for many years. Here- 
 tofore he has plundered these people to supply himself with 
 animals for his own use and for traffic. 
 
 A number of Delawares, Shawnees, and Kickapoos, fr6m 
 Missouri and the borders of Arkansas, have for several years 
 past been engaged in a traffic with the prairie Indians, which 
 has had a tendency to defeat the efforts of the military author- 
 ities in checking their depredations upon the citizens of the 
 northern provinces of Mexico. These traders, after procuring 
 from the whites an outfit of such articles as are suited to the 
 wants of the prairie Indians, visit all the different bands, and 
 
GIVING OF PRESENTS. 115 
 
 prosecute a very lucrative business. The goods they carry 
 out consist of a few articles of small value, such as tobacco, 
 paint, knives, calico, wampum, beads, &c, &c, which are of 
 the utmost importance to the Indians, and which, if neces- 
 sary, they will make great sacrifices to procure ; but as they 
 have no commodity for exchange that the traders desire ex- 
 cept horses and mules, they must necessarily give these for 
 the goods, and large numbers are annually disposed of in this 
 manner. As I have before mentioned, nearly all these ani- 
 mals are pilfered from the Mexicans ; and as the number they 
 traffic away must be replaced by new levies upon their vic- 
 tims, of course all that the traders obtain causes a correspond- 
 ing increase in the amount of depredations. Should the gov- 
 ernment of the United States feel disposed to make the prairie 
 Indians annual donations of the same description of articles 
 that the traders now supply them with, (which I am most 
 happy to learn is now contemplated,) upon the express con- 
 dition that they would continue only so long £s they adhered 
 strictly to all the requirements of the agents, it would in a 
 measure obviate the necessity of their making long expedi- 
 tions into Mexico, and would most undoubtedly have the effect 
 of depreciating the value of the merchandise to such a degree 
 that the traders would no longer find the traffic profitable. 
 The Indians of the plains are accustomed, in their diplomatic 
 intercourse with each other, to exchange presents, and they 
 have no idea of friendship unaccompanied by a substantial 
 token in this form : moreover, they measure the strength of 
 the attachment of their friends by the magnitude of the pres- 
 ents they receive ; and I am firmly convinced that a small 
 amount of money annually expended in this way, with a 
 proper and judicious distribution of the presents, would have 
 a very salutary influence in checking the depredations upon 
 the Mexicans. In a talk which I held with a chief of one of 
 the bands of prairie Indians I stated to him that the President 
 of the United States was their friend, and wished to live in 
 peace with them. He replied that he was much astonished 
 to hear this ; for, judging from the few trifling presents I had 
 made his people, he was of opinion that the " Big Captain " 
 held them in but little estimation. 
 
 Trained up, as the prairie Indians had been from infancy, 
 to regard the occupation of a warrior as the most honorable 
 of all others, and having no permanent abiding-places or 
 local attachments, they can without inconvenience move all 
 their families and worldly effects from one extremity of the 
 
116 RELIGIOUS BELIEF. 
 
 buffalo range to the other. With their numerous and hardy 
 horses they travel with great rapidity ; and possessing as inti- 
 mate a knowledge as they do of the localities, it would give 
 them a great advantage over any body of troops who should 
 pursue them into the country. War would not, therefore, be 
 as great a calamity to them as to other tribes who have per- 
 manent habitations. Some have supposed that a large body 
 of these Indians could not obtain a sufficient amount of sub- 
 sistence to enable them to remain together for any great 
 length of time ; but their numerous horses and mules, which 
 they often make use of for food when game is scarce, would 
 supply them with subsistence for a long time. It will be 
 necessary to devise some measures to do away with the in- 
 veterate prejudices which the Comanches entertain against 
 the habits and customs of the whites before they will be in- 
 duced to remain in any fixed abodes or cultivate the soil. 
 
 In common with most other Indians, they are very supersti- 
 tious ; they believe in dreams, the wearing of amulets, medi- 
 cine-bags, &c..j and the dedication of offerings to secure the 
 favor of invisible agents ; as also in the efficacy of music and 
 dancing for the cure of diseases. They submit with the most 
 imperturbable stoicism and apathy to misfortunes of the most 
 serious character, and, in the presence of strangers, manifest 
 no surprise or curiosity at the exhibition of novelties ; yet this 
 apparent indifference is assumed, and they are in reality very 
 inquisitive people. In every village may be seen small struc- 
 tures, consisting of a frame- work of slight poles, bent into a 
 semi-spherical form, and covered with buffalo-hides. These 
 are called medicine-lodges, and are used as vapor-baths. The 
 patient is seated within the lodge, beside several heated stones, 
 upon which water is thrown, producing a dense hot vapor, 
 which brings on a profuse perspiration, while, at the same 
 time, the shamans, or medicine-men, who profess to have the 
 power of communicating with the unseen world, and of pro- 
 pitiating the malevolence of evil spirits, are performing vari- 
 ous incantations, accompanied by music, on the outside. Such 
 means are resorted to for healing all diseases ; and I am also 
 informed that their young men are obliged to undergo a regu- 
 lar course of steam-bathing before they are considered worthy 
 Of assuming the responsible duties of warriors. The know- 
 ledge they possess of their early history is very vague and 
 limited, and does not extend further back than a few genera- 
 tions. They say that their forefathers lived precisely as they 
 do, and followed the buffalo : that they came from a country to- 
 
CHRISTIANIZATION OF THE INDIANS. 117 
 
 wards the setting sun, where they expect to return after death. 
 They acknowledge the existence and power of a great super- 
 natural agent, who directs and controls all things ; but this 
 power they conceive to be vested in the sun, which they wor- 
 ship and appeal to on all occasions of moment. They also 
 anticipate a future state of existence similar to the present, 
 and invariably bury with the warrior his hunting and war equip- 
 ments. Thus far no efforts have ever been made to improve 
 the moral or physical condition of these people ; no missiona- 
 ries have, to my knowledge, ever visited them, and they have 
 no more idea of Christianity than they have of the religion of 
 Mahomet. We find dwelling almost at our doors as barbar- 
 ous and heathenish a race as exists on the face of the earth ; 
 and while our benevolent and philanthropic citizens are mak- 
 ing such efforts to ameliorate the condition of savages in other 
 countries, should we not do something for the benefit of these 
 wild men of the prairies? Those dingy noblemen of nature, 
 the original proprietors of all that vast domain included be- 
 tween the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific, have been des- 
 poiled, supplanted, and robbed of their just and legitimate 
 heritage, by the avaricious and rapid encroachments of the 
 white man. Numerous and powerful nations have already be- 
 come exterminated by unjustifiable wars that he has waged 
 with them, and by the effects of the vices he has introduced 
 and inculcated ; and of those that remain, but few can be 
 be found who are not contaminated by the pernicious influ- 
 ences of unprincipled and designing adventurers. It is not at 
 this late day in our power to atone for all the injustice inflicted 
 upon the red men; but it seems to me that a wise policy 
 would dictate almost the only recompense it is now in our 
 power to make — that of introducing among them the light of 
 Christianity and the blessings of civilization, with their atten- 
 dant benefits of agriculture and the arts. 
 
118 PACIFIC RAILWAY. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Pacific railway — Impracticability of crossing the "Llano Estaeado" — Route 
 from Fort Smith to Santa Fe — Return route from Doiia Ana — Its connections 
 with the Mississippi and the Pacific. 
 
 The very lively interest that has been manifested in a pro- 
 ject of such importance as that of uniting the Atlantic with the 
 Pacific by a single span of railroad over the continent of North 
 America, and the prevailing dearth of reliable information re- 
 garding a great portion of that vast territory lying west of 
 the Mississippi, induce me to add a few remarks upon this 
 subject, which I trust will not be wholly devoid of interest or 
 utility at this particular period. 
 
 Whether this road should be national, and its administra- 
 tion under the direction of the general government, or whether 
 it should be intrusted to individual States or corporate com- 
 panies, are questions the discussion of which it does not become 
 me to attempt, and upon which I shall not presume to hazard 
 an opinion. I propose, in what I have to say, merely to give 
 a brief detail of such facts connected with this subject as are 
 suggested after an examination of a district of country over 
 which it may be found desirable to construct the road. 
 
 Although the appropriation made by the last Congress for 
 preliminary surveys, indicates a disposition on the part of our 
 national legislature to give aid in the initiatory steps, and al- 
 though great benefits would undoubtedly result from bringing 
 our distant possessions in the west into a closer proximity with 
 the eastern States, by a means of transit much more expedi- 
 tious than any which nature offers, thereby facilitating the 
 transmission of troops and munitions of war, the value of the 
 project, in a commercial aspect, appears to be of sufficient 
 magnitude to denote a reasonable guarantee for its speedy ex- 
 ecution. 
 
 The importance, and indeed the necessity, of this road, are 
 very generally admitted. It is the will of a people controlling 
 a great share of the commerce of the world that it should be 
 made ; and possessing, as they do, ample and pecuniary re- 
 sources, and stimulated by the ambitious but laudable pros- 
 pect of turning and monopolizing the channel of Asiatic trade* 
 
LLANO ESTACADO. 119 
 
 with the almost certain anticipation of profit, it is easy to 
 predict the result. The financial demonstration recently made 
 in New York city, whereby an amount of stock almost suffici- 
 ent to carry out the enterprise was subscribed in one day, is 
 eminently significant of the fact, and affords substantial evi- 
 dence of the confidence of capitalists in the feasibility of the 
 scheme, and an abundant pledge for its early and successful 
 accomplishment. That the road will be constructed, but few 
 at this time entertain a doubt ; the only question that remains 
 to be determined is, where is the best and most advantageous 
 route ? 
 
 The several exploring parties that have been sent across the 
 continent in different latitudes, will undoubtedly place the de- 
 partment in possession of all the information required concern- 
 ing the country over which the limited amount of the appro- 
 priation, and time, enabled them to pass ; but as a large 
 portion of the district over which I have travelled will not 
 come within the scope of their reconnoissances, my remarks 
 may serve to throw some light upon the subject, which cannot 
 be obtained from other sources, and thus add to the general 
 stock of information so earnestly sought after at this particular 
 period. 
 
 The district of country to which my attention has been 
 directed is embraced within the 32d and 36th parallels of lat- 
 itude, and the 95th and 107th meridians of longitude ; and is 
 bounded upon the north by the Canadian river, and upon the 
 west by the Rio Grande. A great portion of this vast domain, 
 containing nearly thirty-two thousand square miles, was, pre- 
 vious to 1849, almost wholly unknown, except to the native 
 occupants. 
 
 One of the most prominent features which strikes the eye 
 of the beholder on an examination of this section, is the very 
 remarkable uniformity of its surface, and the almost total ab- 
 sence of those abrupt and rugged primitive mountain ranges 
 which in many other parts of our country offer such formida- 
 ble obstacles to the passage of railways. But few mountains 
 are seen throughout this region, and those few are so little 
 elevated that they present but trifling obstructions when 
 compared with many that are found in the eastern States. 
 This section is, however, traversed throughout, nearly its 
 whole length, by the lofty plateau of the "Llano estacado," 
 which, as will be observed upon the map, stretches out from 
 the 32d to the 36th parallel of latitude, and is, in places, two 
 hundred miles wide, without a tree or running stream through- 
 
120 
 
 NATURAL ROAD. 
 
 out its entire surface, and presents, in my judgment, an im- 
 passable barrier to a wagon road; and I am fully impressed 
 with the belief that a route crossing this desert anywhere 
 between the 33d parallel of latitude and its northern limits 
 will never be selected for a Pacific railwa}'-, or, indeed, a 
 road of any description. South of this parallel the plain be- 
 comes less elevated above the adjacent country, and finally 
 merges into the lands bordering the Pecos and the head 
 branches of the Colorado. 
 
 If it be impracticable to construct and find the material for 
 sustaining a railway across this desert, 4 the question arises 
 whether a feasible route can be found near the northern or 
 southern borders of it. 
 
 The road which was made under my supervision from Fort 
 Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in 1849, (with 
 one exception, where it crosses a spur, which can easily be 
 turned,) skirts the base of the northern border of this plain ; 
 and so far as the topography of the country is concerned, I 
 believe that a railroad can be made over it with great facility, 
 as the general surface is smooth, and intersected by no im- 
 passable mountains or deep valle} r s. 
 
 On departing from Fort Smith, this road traverses a gently 
 undulating district, sustaining a heavy growth of excellent 
 timber, but occasionally interspersed with prairie lands, afford- 
 ing luxuriant grass for eight months in the year, and intersected 
 with numerous small streams flowing over a highly produc- 
 tive soil, thus embracing the elements of a rich and beautiful 
 pastoral and agricultural locality. This character continues 
 for one hundred and eighty miles, to near the 99th meri- 
 dian of longitude, where the road emerges from the woodlands 
 and enters the great plains, where but little timber is seen 
 except directly along the borders of the water-courses. The 
 soil soon becomes thin and sandy, and, owing to the periodi- 
 cal droughts of the summer season, would require artificial 
 irrigation to make it available for cultivation. 
 
 Soon after leaving the woodlands the road takes a ridge 
 which divides the Canadian from the Washita river, and con- 
 tinues upon it to near the sources of the latter stream, a dis- 
 tance of nearly three hundred miles. This ridge lies in a 
 very direct course for Santa Fe, is firm and smooth, and 
 makes one of the best natural roads I have ever travelled 
 over. The ground upon each side is cut up into a succession 
 of deep and precipitous gullies, which have been washed out 
 by the continued action of water in such a manner as to ren- 
 
LAGUNA COLORADO. 121 
 
 der any other route in the vicinity, but the one directly upon 
 the crest of the "divide," almost impassable. 
 
 From the head of the Washita the road continues near the 
 valley of the Canadian for a hundred miles further, occasion- 
 ally crossing small tributaries which furnish the traveller with 
 water at convenient distances ; it then bears to the left, and 
 passes over the elevated lands bordering the Pecos river, 
 skirting the base of the mountains along that stream until it 
 arrives at a place called "Laguna Colorado," a small lake 
 of muddy water, where the road forks, one branch leading to 
 Santa Fe over a road forty miles in length, and the other to 
 Albuquerque, (the point where the route through what is called 
 " Walker's Pass" is said to leave the Rio Grande,) a distance 
 of only twenty miles. 
 
 The distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, as measured 
 with the chain, is eight hundred and twenty miles.* 
 
 The line of this road continued east from Fort Smith would 
 intersect the Mississippi river in the vicinity of Memphis, Ten- 
 nessee, and would pass through the country bordering the 
 Arkansas river, which cannot be surpassed for fertility, as the 
 bountiful crops of cotton, corn, and other products grown by 
 the planters, abundantly evince. 
 
 The route of my return from New Mexico in 1849, which 
 has been travelled by California emigrants every year since 
 that time, leaves the Rio Grande at a point called Dona Ana, 
 three hundred miles below Santa Fe. 
 
 On leaving this place, at an elevation of about four thousand 
 feet above the sea, the road for three hundred miles traverses 
 an arid prairie region, where but little wood is found except 
 upon three ranges of mountains which stretch out to the 
 north, out do not materially obstruct the passage of the road. 
 They are covered for the most part with pine timber, and 
 abound in springs of wholesome water, making it imperative 
 upon the traveller to pass near them. Upon the route marked 
 down, the defiles have but little elevation above the general 
 surface, and, with the exception of a few miles of broken 
 ground near the "Peak of Guadalupe," the ascents and de- 
 scents to all the undulations are gradual and easy. At the 
 southern extremity of the Guadalupe mountains the summit 
 
 * The barometrical altitude of Albuquerque above tide water is about 5,130 
 feet, and of Fort Smith about 600 feet ; making the difference in altitude, or 
 total declination eastward between the two points, 4,530 feet, or an average 
 grade of a little over 5| feet to the mile. 
 
122 CROSSING OF BRAZOS AND COLORADO. 
 
 level of the country between the Rio Grande and the Pecos is 
 attained, and from this point the surface declines to the bor- 
 ders of the latter stream by a gradation almost imperceptible. 
 Crossing the Pecos, the road ascends by a grade of about five 
 feet per mile for twenty -five miles, and the traveller here finds 
 himself upon the broad plain of the "Llano estacado," which 
 at this point divides the waters of the Rio Grande from those 
 of the Colorado. The road crosses the southern spur of this 
 plain, where it is seventy miles broad, and as firm and smooth 
 as the best McAdamized road. Thence it crosses the head 
 branches of the Colorado and the main Brazos, and leads off 
 to a ridge which terminates near Fulton, Arkansas, upon the 
 navigable waters of Red river. By leaving this ridge and 
 crossing Red river at Preston, a good road is found to Fort 
 Smith, upon the navigable portion of the Arkansas, which 
 would be in a very direct course for St. Louis, and traverse 
 one of the most productive sections of the United States. 
 
 The entire distance from Dona Ana to Fulton is about 
 eight hundred and fifty miles, and to Fort Smith nine hundred 
 and four miles. The road from El Paso connects, at the 
 Sierra Waco, with the one described, and is thirty miles 
 shorter. 
 
 Dona Ana being elevated four thousand feet above the tide- 
 water level, and Fulton and Fort Smith six hundred and sixty 
 and six hundred respectively, gives an average grade of less 
 than four feet to the mile over either road. These results, of 
 course, can only be regarded as approximate estimates, which 
 will be increased upon the undulatory portions of the routes. 
 The surface of the country, however, has a remarkably uni- 
 form dip to the east and south throughout nearly its, whole 
 extent, and is, perhaps, better adapted by nature to the recep- 
 tion of a railroad than almost any other which can be found. 
 
 A glance at a map of the country will show that Red river, 
 from the point of its efflux upon the Delta of the Mississippi 
 to Fulton, has a northerly bearing ; that here it makes a sud- 
 den deflection of almost a right- angle to the west, and main- 
 tains this course to its origin in the " Llano estacado." 
 
 The road alluded to, immediately after leaving Fulton, 
 leads to an elevated ridge, dividing the waters that flow into 
 Red river from those of the Sulphur and Trinity, and contin- 
 ues upon it, with but few deviations from the direct course 
 for El Paso and Dona Ana, to near the Brazos river, a dis- 
 tance of three hundred and twenty miles. This portion of 
 the route has its locality in a country of surpassing beauty 
 
BITUMINOUS COAL. ' 123 
 
 and fertilit} 7- , and possesses all the requisites for attracting and 
 sustaining a dense farming population. It is diversified with 
 prairie and woodlands, affording a great variety of excellent 
 timber, and is bountifully watered with numerous spring- 
 brooks, which flow off upon either side of the ridge into the 
 streams before mentioned. The crest of the ridge is exceed- 
 ingly smooth and level, and is altogether the best natural or 
 artificial road I have ever travelled over for the same dis- 
 tance. 
 
 After leaving this ridge the road crosses the Brazos near 
 very extensive fields "of bituminous coal, (the only locality of 
 this mineral, so far as my knowledge extends, that has been 
 discovered within two hundred miles,) which burns readily 
 with a clear flame, is made use of for fuel at Fort Belknap, 
 and is very superior in quality. 
 
 From the Brazos the road skirts small affluents of that 
 stream and the Colorado for two hundred miles, through a 
 country more undulating than that east of the Brazos ; but no 
 mountains are met with, or elevated hills, which cannot be 
 avoided by short detours. 
 
 Here and there prairies present themselves, but this section 
 is for the most part covered with a growth of trees called 
 mezquite, which stand at such intervals that they present 
 much the appearance of an immense peach orchard. They 
 are from five to ten inches in diameter, their stocks about ten 
 feet in length, and for their durable properties are admirably 
 adapted for railway ties, and would furnish an inexhaustible 
 amount of the very best fuel. The soil upon this section is 
 principally a red argilaceous loam, similar in appearance to 
 that in the Red river bottoms, which is so highly productive, 
 and extends to near the 102d degree of longitude, or about 
 three degrees further west than the arable soil upon some of 
 the more northerly routes. 
 
 As this route is included within the 32d and 34th parallels 
 of latitude, it would never be obstructed by snow, as it sel- 
 dom falls more than two or three inches in depth, and only 
 remains upon the ground a few hours at a time. 
 
 The whole surface of the country, from Red river to the 
 Rio Grande, is covered with a dense coating of the most nu- 
 tritious grass, which remains green for nine months in the 
 year, and enables cattle to subsist the entire winter without 
 any other forage. 
 
 It will be observed that the route here spoken of skirts the 
 head-waters of the rivers flowing towards the Gulf of Mex- 
 
124 ' LLANO ESTACADO. 
 
 ico, for several hundred miles after leaving Red river, and that 
 a road cannot be made much further to the north without im- 
 pinging upon the " Llano estacado." From what I have seen 
 of the country south of this, I have no doubt but that a road 
 could be made in almost any direction, but would be attended 
 with much greater cost than upon the one I have attempted 
 to describe, for the reason that the surface of the country 
 along this route is much more level. 
 
 After passing the Brazos river, the road, as I have before 
 observed, runs near the sources of the streams, where the 
 valleys are broad, and but little depressed below the general 
 surface ; whereas I have remarked that, in descending some 
 of these streams, the longitudinal and lateral valleys become 
 deep and abrupt, and where (as would be the case with a 
 Pacific railway) it became necessary to cross these undula- 
 tions transversely, a greater expenditure of labor would be 
 involved in grading than upon the other route. There would 
 also be many more large streams to bridge ; indeed, upon the 
 route I have recommended, there are but two streams (the 
 Brazos and Pecos) of greater width than forty feet, over the 
 entire distance of eight hundred and fifty miles, between Red 
 river and the Rio Grande. 
 
 As Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego, in California, are near- 
 ly in the same direct line, and one which intersects the longitudi- 
 nal axis of the continent at right-angles, a road connecting these 
 points would form the shortest line of communication to the 
 Pacific in this latiude, and would pass near the valley of the 
 Gila, or its vicinity. 
 
 The direct line of this road prolonged eastwardly from Ful- 
 ton would pass through Arkansas, and intersect the Missis- 
 sippi river a little below Napoleon, opposite the State of 
 Mississippi, and would traverse a section which presents no 
 serious impediment to the passage of a railroad. 
 
 This route was surveyed in 1851 by Mr. Sidell, (civil engi- 
 neer,)- under the direction of the Topographical Bureau, and 
 resulted in perfectly establishing the feasibility of the route, 
 and the determination of the fact that the most elevated ground 
 betwen Lake Providence and Fulton (a distance of two hun- 
 dred miles) is but one hundred and sixty feet above the flood 
 water-table of the Mississippi, and only one hundred feet 
 above that of Red river. 
 
 The terminus of the eastern section of this route upon the 
 Del Norte could be resumed upon the west bank of that 
 stream ; and if the practicability of constructing the road down 
 
ELEVATION OF MOUNTAIN PASSES. 125 
 
 the valley of the Gila can be established, it would give a con- 
 tinuous line to the Colorado river. 
 
 Although our knowledge of the country west of the Rio Del 
 Norte is for the most part confined to a few traces that have 
 been pursued by travellers making their way to the Pacific ; 
 yet it is believed that sufficient reliable data may be deduced 
 from competent authorities to warrant the expectation of find- 
 ing a route with admissible grades, as far, at least, as the 
 Colorado. 
 
 Before reaching the waters that flow into the Pacific, it 
 becomes necessary upon this route, as upon all others in our 
 territory, to surmount the Rocky mountain chain. The eleva- 
 tion of the crest of this great continental vertebral column 
 varies from five to seventeen thousand feet above the tide- 
 level of the ocean, but has a declension towards its southern 
 extremity, which greatly favors the project in question. The 
 barometrical measurements which have been made, place 
 " Long's Peak" in latitude 40° 36' at the maximum, and the 
 culmination of a pass or defile in near latitude 32° at the 
 minimum altitude. 
 
 The elevation of the eastern base of the mountains in lati- 
 tude 42° is the same as the summit of the range in latitude 
 32°. The elevations of other passes that have been examined, 
 vary from seven to eight thousand feet above tide. 
 
 If, so far as the economy of railway transportation is con- 
 cerned, the attainment, with the locomotive, of twenty feet in 
 altitude, is equivalent to the transit of a mile upon a horizontal 
 plane, we would have (other conditions being equal) a differ- 
 ence of one hundred miles in horizontal distance in favor of 
 the route under consideration, over one which should pass the 
 mountains at an elevation of seven thousand feet. 
 
 The difference of elevation of the Rio Del Norte in the vicini- 
 ty of Dona Ana, and the crest of the mountains in latitude 
 32° being about one thousand feet, and the distance between 
 the two positions about one hundred miles, gives an average 
 grade (which is said to be very uniform) of ten feet per mile 
 in ascending the eastern slope of the mountains. From the 
 summit to the mouth of the Gila, a distance of three hundred 
 and eighty miles, the difference in altitude, barometrically de- 
 termined, is four thousand seven hundred and forty-six feet, 
 which (supposing the slope to be uniform) admits of a gradient 
 of about twelve and a half feet to the mile in descending the 
 Pacific side of the mountains. 
 
 The road upon this side would be much more circuitous 
 
126 ROUTE TO THE GULP. 
 
 in its course than upon the other ; the grades will be increased 
 upon the undulatory portions of the country, and some diffi- 
 culty may be anticipated in passing the great canon of the 
 Gila, provided the road is confined exclusively to the limits 
 of our own territory ; but a gentleman of scientific attainments, 
 who has examined this route carefully, is of the opinion that 
 no greater impediments will be met with upon the Gila than 
 are found upon the Hudson river road. From the Colorado 
 to the Pacific (unless some other pass is discovered) the road 
 must penetrate the " Sierra Nevada" chain, through what is 
 called " Warner's Pass." 
 
 The summit of this defile is situated north of the general 
 course of the road, and the approaches to it, upon both sides, 
 are somewhat tortuous. It is about one hundred miles dis- 
 tant from the confluence of the Gila with the Colorado, and 
 about eighty miles from San Diego on the Pacific. 
 
 The elevation of the Pass above tide-water being three 
 thousand and thirteen feet, and that of the Colorado, at the 
 mouth of the Gila, two hundred and fifty-four feet, we would 
 have an average gradation of twenty-seven and a half feet per 
 mile in the ascent of the eastern slope, and a descent from the 
 Pass of thirty-seven and a half feet to the mile in reaching 
 San Diego. 
 
 Should it be found desirable, on arriving at the mouth of 
 the Gila, to turn the course of the road, and run it down the 
 valley of the Colorado, to the head of the Gulf of California. 
 I am informed by persons who have examined this section 
 that the surface is free from obstructions, and the distance 
 to Adair bay (where four fathoms of water may be relied upon 
 at ebb-tide) is about eighty miles. 
 
 I am, sir, 
 
 Very respectfully, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 RANDOLPH B. MARCY, 
 
 Captain 5th hifantnj, U. S. Army. 
 
APPENDIX A. 
 
 TABLE 
 
 METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 
 
 During the expedition for the exploration of the Red river and 
 its sources under charge of Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th U. S. 
 infantry. 
 
128 APPENDIX A.- — METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 131 
 
 
 
 
 
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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
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138 
 
 APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 139 
 
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140 
 
 APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 
 
 APPENDIX B. 
 
 Table @f courses and distances on the route of Captain Marcifs 
 expedition to the sources of Red river. 
 
 
 o. 
 
 
 
 
 4> 
 
 
 
 g 
 
 
 
 *o -2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 re 
 
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 B 
 
 
 S o 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 fc 
 
 o 
 
 pq 
 
 is"" 
 
 R 
 
 
 1852. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 May 7 
 
 
 SE. 6°S 
 
 N. 7 W 
 
 39 
 
 187 
 
 
 
 Total distance travelled, 6,247 
 revolutions — 16 miles 5 yards. 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 54 W 
 
 234 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 66 W 
 
 246 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 88 W 
 
 268 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 60 W 
 
 240 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 30 W 
 
 210 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 85 W 
 
 265 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S. 80 W. . . . . . 
 
 280 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ni 28 W . . . . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 N. 78 W 
 
 N. 10W..... 
 
 20S 
 258 
 
 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,292 
 revolutions = 5 miles 1,524 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N.7SE 
 
 190 
 
 
 
 yards. 
 
 
 
 N. 52E 
 
 112 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 N. 34 E 
 
 142 
 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 NE. 11 N 
 NW. 15 W... 
 
 146 
 240 
 
 
 
 Total distance travelled, 1,567 
 revolutions =4 miles 11 yards. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mis. 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 NE. 2N. 
 
 223 
 
 1,090 
 
 2 799 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,604 
 
 
 
 W. 6 S 
 
 276 
 
 4S3 
 
 1 241 
 
 revolvtions = 11 miles 92. 
 
 
 
 SW. 8 W 
 
 307 
 
 •786 
 
 2 019 
 
 
 
 
 SW. 1W 
 
 314 
 
 20S 
 
 534 
 
 
 
 
 SW. 15 W.... 
 
 300 
 
 2,097 
 
 5 886 
 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 SW.5S 
 
 320 
 
 434 
 
 1 115 
 
 Total distance travelled, 434 re- 
 volutions = 1 mile 115. 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 W. 6 S 
 
 276 
 
 548 
 
 1 407 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,625 
 
 
 
 W. 27 S 
 
 297 
 
 1,442 
 
 3 704 
 
 revolutions = 14 miles 22S. 
 
 
 
 W.10S...... 
 
 280 
 
 994 
 
 2 553 
 
 
 
 
 W.20S 
 
 290 
 
 1,584 
 
 3 940 
 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 270 
 
 1,107 
 
 2 843 
 
 
 IT 
 
 3 
 
 NW. 5 W.... 
 
 230 
 
 903 
 
 2 819 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,341 
 
 
 
 SW. 17 W. . . . 
 
 298 
 
 1,462 
 
 3 755 
 
 revolutions =11 miles 172. 
 
 
 
 SW. 15 W.... 
 
 300 
 
 526 
 
 1 351 
 
 
 
 
 W.10S 
 
 280 
 
 527 
 
 1 358 
 
 
 
 
 NW. 15 W... 
 
 240 
 
 923 
 
 2 370 
 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 NW. 15 W... 
 
 240 
 
 869 
 
 2 233 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,684 
 
 
 
 W. 20 N 
 
 250 
 
 9S0 
 
 2 517 
 
 revolutions =14 miles 34. 
 
 
 
 W. 15 N 
 
 255 
 
 618 
 
 1 597 
 
 
 
 
 W. 10 N 
 
 260 
 
 611 
 
 1 597 
 
 
 
 
 NW. 
 
 225 
 260 
 
 856 
 539 
 
 2 198 
 1 384 
 
 
 
 W. 10 N 
 
 
 
 
 W. 12 N 
 
 258 
 
 463 
 
 1 189 
 
 
 
 
 NW. 5 W . . . . 
 
 230 
 
 74S 
 
 1 921 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Halted in Camp No. 4, on Sink 
 creek. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 
 251 
 
 
 3 00 
 
 
 N. 10 W 
 
 190 
 
 
 1 405 
 
 405. 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 NW. 15 N.... 
 
 210 
 
 
 250 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3 miles 
 
 
 
 SW. S S 
 
 323 
 
 
 500 
 
 41. 
 
 
 
 NW 5 W.... 
 
 230 
 
 
 1 500 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 20 N . . . . 
 
 155 
 
 
 1 160 
 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 9 
 
 W 10 N 
 
 
 
 2 884 
 7 793 
 
 3 135 
 1 142 
 9 209 
 
 852 
 
 1 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 168. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 26 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 112 
 
 
 Total distance travelled, 852. 
 
 27 
 
 E. 22 N 
 
 Total distance travelled, 1 mile 
 
 
 
 NE. 17 E 
 
 118 
 
 
 295 
 
 295. 
 
APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 
 
 14] 
 
 
 p. 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 eS 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 £ 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
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 Z 
 
 1S52. 
 
 
 May 29 
 
 10 
 
 80 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 12 
 
 June 1 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 IS 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 9 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 22 
 
 * 
 
 k 23 
 
 W. 6°S... 
 N.5E.... 
 NW.17N. 
 
 N 
 
 N. 10W. . 
 N. 20 E... 
 N. 20 W. . 
 N. 10 W. . 
 NE. 5E... 
 NE. 5N.... 
 NW.5N.. 
 NW. 15 N. 
 
 NW 
 
 N 
 
 N.5 E.... 
 N. 20 W. . 
 NW. 5 W. 
 W. 8N.. . 
 NW. 7W. 
 NW. 5N.. 
 NW. 9W. 
 NW. UN. 
 NW. 5N.. 
 NW. 17 N . 
 NW. 5N.. 
 NE. 7N... 
 W.5 N... 
 
 W 
 
 W 
 
 W. 8S.... 
 SW. 9S... 
 
 w 
 
 N. 30 W. . 
 
 N 
 
 N. 30 W. . 
 N. 15 W. . 
 NW.5N.. 
 
 NW 
 
 NW. 17 N. 
 N. 15 W. . 
 W. 20 N. . 
 W. ION. . 
 NW. 15 W. 
 W. 15 N. . 
 N 
 
 NW. 5N.. 
 SW.15W. 
 NW. 5 N. . 
 NW. 20 N. 
 NW. IS W 
 W. 14 S... 
 SW. IS... 
 SW.5S... 
 NW. 20 N. 
 NW.2N.. 
 W. 6S. .. 
 W. 1SN. . 
 NW. 13 N. 
 W. ION. . 
 NW. 13 N. 
 
 W 
 
 W.5N.. . 
 W. 16 S... 
 
 276 
 175 
 20S 
 ISO 
 190 
 160 
 200 
 190 
 130 
 140 
 220 
 210 
 225 
 180 
 175 
 200 
 230 
 262 
 282 
 220 
 234 
 214 
 220 
 208 
 220 
 142 
 265 
 270 
 270 
 27S 
 324 
 270 
 210 
 ISO 
 210 
 195 
 220 
 225 
 208 
 195 
 250 
 260 
 240 
 255 
 180 
 
 220 
 300 
 220 
 205 
 238 
 2S4 
 316 
 320 
 205 
 223 
 276 
 252 
 212 
 260 
 212 
 270 
 265 
 236 
 
 424 
 283 
 521 
 
 1,195 
 
 1,031 
 884 
 526 
 322 
 628 
 307 
 
 1,638 
 280 
 025 
 803 
 S4 
 
 1,296 
 235 
 939 
 
 1,100 
 717 
 697 
 620 
 498 
 654 
 
 1,009 
 969 
 626 
 341 
 
 1,061 
 419 
 494 
 
 1,063 
 986 
 638 
 807 
 616 
 619 
 
 1,109 
 493 
 605 
 
 1,048 
 671 
 960 
 S19 
 459 
 
 465 
 688 
 972 
 802 
 246 
 
 1,156 
 781 
 343 
 590 
 649 
 
 1,162 
 574 
 764 
 
 1,2S7 
 340 
 
 1,850 
 
 1,087 
 981 
 
 Mis. 
 1 0S4 
 
 598 
 
 1 838 
 
 3 069 
 
 2 648 
 
 9S6 
 
 1 351 
 S27 
 1- 623 
 7SS 
 
 4 207 
 
 719 
 
 1 615 
 
 2 062 
 215 
 
 3 585 
 603 
 
 412 
 980 
 
 841 
 790 
 602 
 279 
 6S9 
 591 
 490 
 618 
 
 S75 
 
 726 
 076 
 269 
 731 
 532 
 648 
 072 
 592 
 600 
 S4S 
 266 
 
 1 564 
 
 2 692 
 
 1 733 
 
 2 467 
 2 104 
 1 179 
 
 1 195 
 
 1 777 
 
 2 496 
 2 060 
 632 
 
 909 
 006 
 SSI 
 525 
 677 
 985 
 474 
 963 
 806 
 873 
 467 
 333 
 519 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Total distance travelled, miles 
 09153. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 8,198 
 revolutions = S miles 225859. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,480 
 revolutions == 8 miles 820895, 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,470 
 revolutions — 6 miles 6. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,346 
 revolutions = 11 miles 181. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,945 
 revolutions = 7 miles 574. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,468 
 revolutions = 14 miles 054. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,442 
 revolutions = 8 miles 830. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,498 
 revolutions = 8 miles 996. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 459 rev- 
 olutions = 1 mile 179. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,178 
 revolutions = S miles 16. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,519 
 revolutions = 9 miles 058, 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,127 
 revolutions — 10 miles 601. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,248 
 revolutions = 10 miles 894, 
 
142 
 
 APPENDIX B.— COURSES AND DISTANCES. 
 
 ° .t 
 
 - u 
 
 1852. 
 
 June 11 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 35 
 
 27 
 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 3T 
 
 NW. 15° W 
 W. 5N.. .. 
 
 W. 8S 
 
 W. 5N.. .. 
 NW. 15 W. 
 
 SW 
 
 W. 10S.... 
 
 W. 3S 
 
 SW. 15 W.. 
 SW. 17 W.. 
 
 w 
 
 S. 10W.... 
 W. ION. .. 
 SW. 15 W.. 
 
 W. 10 s.. . 
 
 w 
 
 SW. 15 S... 
 W. 6S 
 
 SE. 10 E. 
 
 S 
 
 S. 10 E... 
 
 s. low.. 
 
 S. 20 W.. 
 SE.10S.. 
 
 s.. 
 
 S. 10 E... 
 
 s 
 
 SE. 15 S.. 
 SW. 5W. 
 
 s 
 
 S. 20 W.. 
 
 SE 
 
 E 
 
 E 
 
 SE. 10 S. 
 S. 10 E.. 
 SiE. 20 S. 
 
 s 
 
 SE 
 
 S. 10W... 
 NW. 15 N. 
 W. 10 s... 
 s. low... 
 
 w 
 
 SW 
 
 W. 20 N. . 
 
 s 
 
 W. 10 s... 
 W. ION. . 
 SW. 10W. 
 S. 5W.... 
 S. 10 E... . 
 SW. 10S.. 
 
 SE 
 
 S 
 
 S. 6W.... 
 S. 10W... 
 
 SW 
 
 w 
 
 S. 20 W... 
 
 240 
 
 265 
 278 
 265 
 240 
 315 
 280 
 273 
 300 
 288 
 270 
 350 
 260 
 300 
 
 2S0 
 270 
 330 
 276 
 320 
 350 
 
 360 
 
 10 
 
 350 
 
 340 
 
 35 
 
 360 
 
 10 
 
 360 
 
 30 
 
 310 
 
 360 
 
 340 
 
 45 
 
 90 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 25 
 360 
 
 45 
 360 
 340 
 210 
 2S0 
 850 
 270 
 315 
 250 
 360 
 280 
 260 
 305 
 355 
 
 10 
 325 
 
 45 
 860 
 354 
 350 
 315 
 27.0 
 840 
 
 £ 
 
 ^ 2 
 
 *"2 
 
 224 
 
 1,476 
 431 
 353 
 
 1,220 
 898 
 
 1,208 
 552 
 
 1,142 
 590 
 822 
 891 
 799 
 
 1,050 
 486 
 
 1,017 
 305 
 
 1,802 
 674 
 401 
 976 
 
 1,176 
 
 1,132 
 
 2,808 
 983 
 608 
 945 
 851 
 415 
 556 
 641 
 838 
 311 
 
 2, 358 
 837 
 999 
 695 
 
 1,632 
 
 604 
 554 
 
 1,681 
 
 1,174 
 705 
 461 
 
 1,217 
 579 
 975 
 260 
 843 
 
 1, 933 
 789 
 842 
 
 1,043 
 904 
 936 
 976 
 323 
 
 1,444 
 159 
 819 
 
 1,247 
 423 
 993 
 519 
 314 
 
 ga 
 
 a 
 
 s 
 
 Mis. 
 675 
 3 791 
 
 107 
 906 
 134 
 306 
 103 
 418 
 933 
 515 
 101 
 2S8 
 052 
 697 
 249 
 612 
 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 783 
 3 344 
 
 1 741 
 
 1 030 
 
 2 507 
 
 3 020 
 
 218 
 525 
 572 
 427 
 262 
 065 
 428 
 756 
 152 
 
 788 
 6 036 
 2 150 
 2 560 
 
 1 785 
 4 192 
 
 561 
 
 423 
 
 025 
 811 
 185 
 015 
 487 
 502 
 667 
 2 164 
 964 
 026 
 162 
 676 
 323 
 403 
 249 
 
 829 
 
 3 709 
 
 408 
 
 2 103 
 
 3 203 
 
 1 085 
 
 2 55 
 1 833 
 802 
 
 Remarks* 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,4 
 revolutions == 8 miles 938. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,390 
 revolutions = 11 miles 275. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,044 
 revolutions = 10 miles 387. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,851 
 revolutions = 15 miles 037. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 1,132 
 revolutions = 2 miles 706. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,899 
 revolutions = 11 miles 310. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,587 
 revolutions = 11 miles 888. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,8 
 revolutions = 12 miles 587. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 1,632 
 revolutions = 4 miles 192. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,179 
 revolutions = 13 miles 303. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,807. 
 revolutions = 14 miles 916. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,578 
 revolutions = 9 miles 2. 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,557 
 revolutions = 11 miles 705. 
 
 Total distance tra^Wed, 3,496 
 revolutions = 8 miles 98. 
 
 i\%llei 
 
APPENDIX B. COUftSES AND DISTANCES. 
 
 143 
 
 
 d 
 
 
 
 3 ^ 
 
 <D 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 oS 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 C3 
 
 
 
 £a 
 
 C3 
 
 
 
 
 ti 
 
 o 6 
 
 gl 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 s< 
 
 a> 
 
 C 
 
 jq m 
 
 S3 
 
 
 s 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 e3 
 
 a § 
 
 « 
 
 
 03 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 53 
 
 O 
 
 M 
 
 iz~ 
 
 P 
 
 
 1852. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 Mis. 
 
 
 June 29 
 
 8S 
 
 NE. 20° N. . . . 
 
 155 
 
 763 
 
 1 960 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,693 
 
 
 
 NE. 20 E.... 
 
 115 
 
 778 
 
 1 998 
 
 revolutions = 6 miles 917. 
 
 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 ISO 
 
 512 
 
 1 314 
 
 
 
 
 N. 20 E 
 
 160 
 
 640 
 
 1 653 
 
 
 July 2 
 
 39 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 883 
 
 2 207 
 
 Total distance travelled, 8S3 re~ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 volutions = 2 miles 267. 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
 NE. 15 E 
 
 120 
 
 753 
 
 1 935 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,099 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 475 
 
 1 218 
 
 revolutions = 13 miles 097. 
 
 
 
 SE 
 
 45 
 175 
 
 626 
 270 
 
 1 617 
 693 
 
 
 N.5E 
 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 460 
 
 1 180 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 20 E. , 
 
 115 
 
 669 
 
 1 729 
 
 
 
 41 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 100 
 
 1,846 
 829 
 
 4 741 
 2 129 
 
 
 5 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 Total distance travelled, 6,055 
 
 
 
 E. 10 S .... 
 
 80 
 
 1,067 
 
 2 741 
 
 revolutions = 15 miles 653. 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S . 
 
 70 
 
 1,500 
 
 3 853 
 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 170 
 
 609 
 1,132 
 
 1 574 
 
 2 906 
 
 
 
 N. 10 E, 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 S 
 
 360 
 
 100 
 
 918 
 
 1,028 
 
 2 356 
 2 639 
 
 
 6 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,995 
 
 
 
 NE. 15 E 
 
 120 
 
 656 
 
 1 694 
 
 revolutions = 12 miles 83. 
 
 
 
 NE. 10 E. 
 
 125 
 
 1,083 
 
 2 780 
 
 
 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 100 
 
 1,115 
 
 2 861 
 
 
 
 
 E. 10 S 
 
 80 
 
 335 
 
 860 
 
 
 
 43 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 
 130 
 
 778 
 2,295 
 
 1 997 
 5 894 
 
 
 T 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 Total distance travelled, 6,208 
 
 
 
 E. 10 S 
 
 E 
 
 80 
 90 
 
 691 
 538 
 
 1 775 
 1 381 
 
 revolutions = 16 miles 046* 
 
 
 
 NE. 15 E.... 
 
 120 
 
 973 
 
 2 497 
 
 
 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 100 
 
 1,049 
 
 2 693 
 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S 
 
 70 
 
 662 
 
 1 711 
 
 
 3 
 
 44 
 
 E. 10 S 
 
 80 
 
 535 
 
 1 373 
 
 Total distance travelled, 6,848 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S 
 
 70 
 
 2,411 
 
 6 191 
 
 revolutions = 10 miles 418. 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 60 
 
 1,820 
 1,373 
 
 3 3S9 
 3 524 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 
 
 
 SE. 5E 
 
 50 
 
 709 
 
 1 821 
 
 
 9 
 
 45 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 
 600 
 
 1 551 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,15? 
 revolutions = 10 miles 683. 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 742 
 
 1 905 
 
 
 
 E. ION, 
 
 100 
 
 465 
 
 1 192 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 130 
 
 994 
 
 2 553 
 
 
 
 
 NE 15 N . . . . 
 
 150 
 
 795 
 
 2 042 
 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S ..... . 
 
 70 
 
 562 
 
 1 446 
 
 
 10 
 
 46 
 
 SE 
 
 45 
 
 1,962 
 
 5 037 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,357 
 revolutions = 13 miles 76. 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 S 
 
 30 
 
 1,205 
 
 8 093 
 
 
 
 SE. 7 E 
 
 52 
 
 836 
 
 2 146 
 
 
 
 
 SE 
 
 45 
 350 
 
 695 
 659 
 
 1 786 
 1 702 
 
 
 
 s. low 
 
 
 11 
 
 47 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 1,043 
 
 2 677 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,316 
 revolutions = 11 miles 086. 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 1,034 
 
 2 646 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 60 
 
 499 
 
 1 282 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 95 
 
 1,740 
 2,196 
 
 4 469 
 
 5 640 
 
 
 12 
 
 E. 5N 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,604 
 
 
 
 E.20 N 
 
 110 
 
 1,209 
 
 3 103 
 
 revolutions = 14 miles 4. 
 
 
 
 NE. 21 E 
 
 114 
 
 735 
 
 1 888 
 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 692 
 
 1 779 
 
 
 
 
 SE. 10 E 
 
 55 
 
 772 
 
 1 982 
 
 
 14 
 
 49 
 
 SE. 15 E ' 
 
 60 
 
 909 
 
 2 334 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,815 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S 
 
 70 
 
 810 
 
 2 079 
 
 revolutions = 11 miles 084. 
 
 
 
 NE. 5E 
 
 130 
 
 794 
 
 2 039 
 
 
 
 
 N. 20 E 
 
 160 
 
 571 
 
 1 466 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 130 
 
 1,231 
 
 3 159 
 
 
 15 
 
 , 50 
 
 E. ION 
 
 100 
 
 1,916 
 
 4 919 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,070 
 
 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 
 784 
 
 2 014 
 
 revolutions = 10 miles 454. 
 
 
 
 NE. 5N 
 
 140 
 
 663 
 
 1 712 
 
 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 110 
 
 473 
 1 234 
 
 1 212 
 600 
 
 
 
 1 E. 20 N...... 
 
 
APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 
 
 
 <£, 
 
 
 
 i '%> 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 "o tS. 
 
 . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 aS 
 
 
 
 fea 
 
 
 
 
 
 O > 
 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 iz 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 
 
 
 tb 
 
 QJ ° 
 
 
 
 
 £<! 
 
 §2 
 
 ,3 
 
 ^ w 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 O 
 
 3 
 
 II 
 
 cS 
 
 
 P 
 
 15 
 
 o 
 
 B 
 
 ;z~ 
 
 P 
 
 
 1852. 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 Mis 
 
 
 
 July 16 
 
 51 
 
 NE. 15° N . . . 
 
 150 
 
 1,720 
 
 4 
 
 418 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,915 
 
 
 
 NE.5E 
 
 180 
 
 98 
 
 
 
 251 
 
 revolutions =1 miles 4S7. 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 522 
 
 1 
 
 34 
 
 
 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 100 
 
 836 
 
 
 
 862 
 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 239 
 
 
 
 613 
 
 
 17 
 
 52 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 1,844 
 
 4 
 
 734 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,669 
 
 
 
 E. ION 
 
 100 
 
 451 
 
 1 
 
 157 
 
 revolutions =11 miles 993. 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 60 
 
 656 
 
 1 
 
 694 
 
 
 
 
 E.5N 
 
 95 
 
 749 
 
 1 
 
 924 
 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 969 
 
 2 
 
 489 
 
 
 18 
 
 53 
 
 N 
 
 180 
 160 
 
 895 
 620 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 299 
 602 
 
 Total distance travelled, 8,231 
 
 
 N. 20 E 
 
 revolutions = S miles 299. 
 
 
 
 E. 20 N 
 
 110 
 
 958 
 
 2 
 
 461 
 
 
 
 54 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 40 
 
 758 
 804 
 
 1 
 
 
 947 
 
 78 
 
 
 19 
 
 SE. 5 S , . . 
 
 Total distance travelled, 2,482 
 
 
 
 SE 
 
 45 
 
 801 
 
 2 
 
 056 
 
 revolutions = 6 miles 876. 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 60 
 
 1,377 
 
 3 
 
 586 
 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
 SE. 5 S 
 
 40 
 
 1, 028 
 
 2 
 
 626 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,602 
 
 
 
 N.5E 
 
 175 
 
 614 
 
 1 
 
 587 
 
 revolutions = 9 miles 25. 
 
 
 
 E. 10 N 
 
 100 
 
 805 
 
 2 
 
 066 
 
 
 
 
 E. 15N 
 
 105 
 
 1,160 
 
 2 
 
 979 
 
 
 21 
 
 56 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 180 
 
 943 
 
 2 
 
 42 
 
 Total distance travelled, 8,855 
 
 
 
 E. 5S 
 
 85 
 
 2,194 
 
 5 
 
 634 
 
 revolutions = 9 miles 902. 
 
 
 
 E. 20 S 
 
 70 
 
 718 
 
 1 
 
 843 
 
 
 22 
 
 57 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 60 
 
 2, 099 
 
 5 
 
 392 
 
 Total distance travelled, 7,074 
 
 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 180 
 
 617 
 
 1 
 
 593 
 
 revolutions = 18 miles 17. 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 395 
 
 1 
 
 015 
 
 
 
 
 E.10N 
 
 100 
 
 916 
 
 2 
 
 351 
 
 
 
 
 E 
 
 90 
 
 3, 047 
 
 1,853 
 
 564 
 
 7 
 
 825 
 
 
 24 
 
 58 
 
 S 
 
 860 
 
 45 
 
 4 
 1 
 
 759 
 449 
 
 Total distance travelled, 4,957 
 
 
 SE 
 
 revolutions = 12 miles 734. 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E , 
 
 60 
 
 945 
 
 2 
 
 426 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 E 
 
 360 
 360 
 
 1,595 
 1,209 
 
 4 
 3 
 
 096 
 105 
 
 
 25 
 
 S 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,905 
 
 
 
 S. 10E 
 
 10 
 
 1,953 
 
 5 
 
 oos 
 
 revolutions = 15 miles 158. 
 
 
 
 SE. 15 E 
 
 60 
 
 675 
 
 1 
 
 783 
 
 
 
 
 SE. 5 S 
 
 40 
 
 855 
 
 2 
 
 197 
 
 
 
 
 S. 10 E...... 
 
 10 
 
 1,213 
 
 3 
 
 115 
 
 
 26 
 
 60 
 
 NE. 10 E . . . . 
 
 125 
 
 543 
 
 1 
 
 393 
 
 Total distance travelled, 3,827 
 
 
 
 NE. 15 E . . . . 
 
 120 
 
 1,784 
 
 4 
 
 5S3 
 
 revolutions = 9 miles SS7. 
 
 
 
 NE. 5E 
 
 130 
 
 969 
 
 2 
 
 4S8 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 15 E . . . . 
 
 120 
 
 531 
 
 1 
 
 423 
 
 
 27 
 
 61 
 
 NE 
 
 135 
 
 737 
 
 1 
 
 892 
 
 Total distance travelled, 5,367 
 
 
 
 SE 
 
 45 
 
 641 
 
 1 
 
 656 
 
 revolutions = 13 miles 803. 
 
 
 
 E. 10 S 
 
 80 
 
 627 
 
 1 
 
 619 
 
 
 
 
 E. 15 S 
 
 75 
 
 1,820 
 
 4 
 
 675 
 
 
 
 
 NE. 10 E . . . . 
 
 125 
 
 1,542 
 
 3 
 
 961 
 
 
 28 
 
 62 
 
 NE. 5 E 
 
 130 
 
 3,736 
 
 9 
 
 596 
 
 Total distance travelled, 8,736 
 revolutions = 9 miles 596. 
 
APPENDIX C 
 
 MINERALOGY. 
 
 REPORT ON THE MINERALS COLLECTED: BY PROF. CHARLES 
 UPHAM SHEPARD. 
 
 Amherst College, June 1, 1853. 
 My Dear Sir : The following report relates to the speci- 
 mens collected by Captain Marcy, and which, agreeably to 
 your request, were submitted by me to a chemical and min- 
 eralogical examination. 
 
 Very respectfully and truly yours, 
 
 CHARLES UPHAM SHEPARD. 
 To President Hitchcock. 
 
 1. COPFER ORES— MARCYLITE. 
 
 The most interesting of these was a specimen : of rather 
 more than one ounce in weight, from the main or south fork 
 of Red river, near the Witchita mountains. It is a black 
 compact ore, strongly resembling the black oxide of copper 
 from the Lake Superior mines, for which substance I at first 
 mistook it. It was partially coated by a thin layer of the rare 
 and beatiful atacamite, (muriate of copper of Phillips.) This 
 is the first instance in which this species has been detected in 
 North America. On subjecting the black ore to a close inves- 
 tigation, it proves to be a substance hitherto undescribed, and 
 it affords me much pleasure to name it, in honor of the very 
 enterprising and successful explorer to whom mineralogy is 
 indebted for the discovery, Marcylite. It is massive and com- 
 pact ; fracture even ; color black ; opaque ; lustre none ; hard- 
 ness equals that of calcite, or 3 of the mineralogical scale ; 
 sectile streak shining; powder light grayish black; specific 
 gravity, 4.0 to 4.1. In small fragments it melts in the heat of 
 a candle, to the flame of which it imparts a rich blue and 
 10 
 
146 APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 
 
 green color. This is especially striking when a blow-pipe is 
 employed. The slightest heat of the instrument suffices for 
 the fusion of the ore. The chloride of copper is volatilized, 
 and spreads over the charcoal support, from which the splen- 
 did green color rises also. On directing the flame of the can- 
 dle against it, the mass, or assay, remains for some time fluid, 
 continuing to give the color as at first, till finally the green 
 and blue tinge declines, and at last disappears altogether; 
 after which the globule swells out into large bubbles and sud- 
 denly collapses, and this repeatedly for a number of times, 
 (ten or fifteen,) when it seems to be pure copper. In cooling, 
 however, a thin light steel-gray pellicle forms upon its surface, 
 which separates by a slight blow with a hammer, revealing a 
 globule of pure copper within. This coating, on being fused 
 with borax, gives rise to a colorless glass, with brilliant points 
 of metalic copper adhering to the support of subjacent char- 
 coal : a fragment heated in a small glass tube before the blow- 
 pipe, enters into fusion and evolves much moisture, which 
 contains traces of hydrochloric acid. The powdered mineral 
 is almost wholly dissolved by ammonia, and the black pow- 
 der which remains is slowly taken up by warm nitric acid, 
 with the separation of traces of silica. Sulphuric acid dis- 
 solves the mineral, with the extrication of hydrochloric acid. 
 Analysis gave the following as the composition of the ore: 
 
 Copper . 54.30 
 
 Oxygen and chlorine. 36.20 
 
 Water 9.50 
 
 100.00 
 
 With traces of silica. 
 
 The above is undoubtedly a very valuable ore for copper, 
 as it is very rich in metal, and easy of reduction in the fur- 
 nace. Numerous specimens of the same ore, but very im- 
 pure from an admixture of fine sand, were embraced in the 
 collection, as coming from Copper creek, four miles from 
 Cache creek. They were in the form of flattened, irregular 
 discs, about two inches across and half an inch thick, having 
 their surfaces coated by malachite (carbonate of copper) in a 
 pulverulent condition. Along with the above, also, were 
 found similarly shaped masses of an impure black oxide of 
 copper, (coated by malachite,) which had the following com- 
 position : 
 
APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY. 147 
 
 Copper (with traces of iron) ... 35.30 to 40.00 
 
 Silica 30.60 
 
 Oxygen and water 34.10 
 
 100.00 
 
 It is fusible before the blow-pipe, but does not tinge the 
 flame blue or green. The fused mass bubbles up for a time, 
 and finally yields a globule of copper with a thick crust, 
 which is black, and feebly attracted by the magnet. A cop- 
 per ore of the average characters of these flattened masses 
 Avould yield from 33 to 35 per cent, in the large way. 
 
 Still another variety of copper ore is ticketed " June 3, Gyp- 
 sum Bluff" It consists of numerous small fragments of a 
 friable finergrained white sandstone, much mixed up with a 
 pulverulent malachite, and occasionally presenting specks of 
 black oxide of copper. Taken as a whole, I should judge 
 that it might be a 5 per cent. ore. 
 
 Another variety still of copper ore, some stones, labelled 
 " May 16, first day from Cache creek." They consist of a 
 calcareous amygdaloid, through which are interspersed black 
 oxide of copper and stains of malachite. Its value for metal 
 would not exceed that of the variety last mentioned. 
 
 " May 17 " refers to a compact grayish white limestone., 
 much mottled with red. It contains druses of calcite, fibres 
 of mesotype, and stains of black oxide of copper. It belongs, 
 like the last, to the trappean family of minerals. 
 
 Z. MANGANESE ORE. 
 
 " Copper creek, third day from Cache creek." An impure 
 ore. When treated with warm hydrochloric acid, it evolves 
 chlorine gas. It contains much silica, and some peroxide of 
 iron, with 15,75 per cent, of water and about 10 per cent, 
 binoxide of manganese. The specimen is imperfectly folia- 
 ted, and, in places, is columnar. It is porous, and of a black 
 color, resembling black oxide of copper. It was tested both 
 for copper and cobalt, without detecting either. 
 
 3. IRON AND TITANIAN SANDS. 
 
 " July 18, Cache creek, foot of cliff." This is a heavy, 
 rather coarse black sand; more than half of which consists oi 
 magnetic iron, the remainder being titaniferous iron. It is re- 
 
148 APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 
 
 markable for its purity in these two minerals, the most care- 
 ful search not resulting in the discovery of other minerals min- 
 gled with it, if we except a few grains of quartz labradorite 
 and epidote. An ineffectual examination of it was had for tin 
 and gold. Another specimen, collected July 16, was tested 
 with a similar result. 
 
 4. OTHER MINERALS. 
 
 "May 31." Labradorite in numerous specimens. Its color 
 is a dark pearl-blue, or gray ; it does not fire the irridescent 
 reflections. From the size and purity of the masses, it would 
 appear to be a very abundant mineral, even if it does not 
 amount to a rock, throughout the region of the Witchita 
 mountains. 
 
 Specimens were collected, bearing the same date, of a red 
 cellular limestone, which may have originated, if we suppose 
 a soft ferruginous clay to have been parted off by meshes, or 
 cell-walls, of calcareous matter, and the clay to have been 
 subsequently washed away, or in some manner mostly 
 removed. 
 
 " July 15, base of Witchita mountains." Reddish septaria, 
 or a mixture of peroxide of iron and calcite, traversed by 
 veins of pure calcite, surfaces of the masses somewhat bot- 
 ryoidal. A singular variety of cellular quartz, said to have 
 occurred in veins in the Witchita mountains, was carefully 
 examined for gold, but without the detection of a trace of the 
 precious metal, notwithstanding some of the specimens, from 
 the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites, 
 looked very promising for gold. 
 
 5. SOILS. 
 
 "Sub-soil, Cache creek, May 14; the same as that found 
 about the Witchita mountains." The sample had been 
 kneaded by the hand into a ball. Its color was reddish 
 brown ; it contained no organic matter. Analysis gave the 
 following result : 
 
 Silica, (including some fine feldspathic grains) 82.25 
 
 Peroxide of iron 2-65 
 
 Alumina , 0.55 
 
 Carbonate of lime 5.40 
 
 Carbonate of magnesia 1.70 
 
APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 149 
 
 Water (hygrometrie moisture).. 5.50 
 
 Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash traces 
 
 98.05 
 
 The soil contains no perceptible traces -of chlorine, or any 
 other sulphate besides that of lime. It would appear to have 
 an excellent constitution, as a sub-soil, for the cultivation of 
 the grain crops, as well as for cotton. It is eminently a cal- 
 careous soil, and probably has a sufficiency of potash present 
 also ; but the quantity of the material - did not enable me to 
 determine the proportion of this constituent. 
 
 " Sub-soil, June 3." This sub-soil is fine grained, and has 
 a clayey appearance. Its color is a deep red. Little frag- 
 ments of gypsum may be detected scattered through its mass. 
 It has the following rather unusual composition : 
 
 Silica 79.30 
 
 Peroxide of iron 8.95 
 
 Alumina 1.50 
 
 Carbonate of lime 1.10 
 
 Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and 
 
 chloride of sodium 4.65 
 
 Water 4.50 
 
 100.00 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 GEOLOGY. 
 
 MOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS AND MINERALS COL- 
 LECTED : BY EDWARD HITCHCOCK, PRESIDENT OF AMHERST 
 COLLEGE. 
 
 Dear Sir : I have done what I could with the specimens 
 you put into my hands from the Red river ; but I must con- 
 fess, that while these specimens, with the sections and notes 
 by Dr. Shumard and yourself, have disclosed some interesting 
 and valuable substances, I have found it impossible to solve 
 several questions of importance for the want of more speci- 
 mens, especially fossils. Without these, you are aware, the 
 tertiary and secondary formations cannot be identified with 
 any degree of certainty. Yet the whole number of species 
 sent me does not exceed half a dozen, and several of these are 
 so mutilated that their specific character cannot be deter- 
 mined. The two most important formations pointed out in 
 your notes, and in the sections, are the gypsum deposite and 
 that of coal ; yet from the former there is not in the collection 
 more than one species of fossil, and from the latter no speci- 
 men whatever ; so that the exact place in the geological scale 
 of these two formations is in a great measure conjectural.* 
 
 But notwithstanding these deficiencies, we do get from the 
 specimens, and your notes, glimpses of several very valuable 
 facts. The four most important points in your discoveries are 
 gypsum, copper, gold, and coal. Perhaps I cannot bring out 
 my views upon these and other points better than by describ- 
 ing the specimens in the order of your march, except where 
 that was doubled upon itself. Where I can do it, and think 
 it of any service, I shall designate by colors, upon the map of 
 
 * When I wrote the above I was not aware that Dr. Geo. G. Shumard was 
 requested to report upon the palaeontology of the exploration. When that re- 
 port appears, probably he, or others, can draw more accurate conclusions upon 
 some points than I have done. 
 
APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 151 
 
 your route which you placed in my hands, the most important 
 deposites. 
 
 At your starting point, Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, 
 you mention a fact of the deepest interest, viz i the occur- 
 rence of "large beds of bituminous coal." Dr. Shumard has 
 given the following section of the strata at this place : 
 
 1. Sub-soil, arenaceous, and of a red color, three to ten 
 feet. 
 
 2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating, four feet. 
 
 3. Seams of bituminous coal, two to four feet. 
 
 4. Fine-grained sandstone, yellowish gray, with fossil ferns ; 
 thickness variable. 
 
 5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone, of unknown thickness. 
 
 Dr. Shumard sa} r s that the fossil ferns in this formation be- 
 long to "the carboniferous era." He also describes the same 
 formation on the third day's march, some fifty miles northeast 
 of Fort Belknap, on one of the sources of Trinity river. He 
 describes sandstone ibr several subsequent days, some of it 
 coarse and highly ferruginous, with ripple-marks, which I 
 should suppose might belong to the same coal measures, did 
 he not mention that strata of red loam, so abundant in all that 
 region, lie beneath the sandstone ; which could not be, if the 
 coal belongs to the carboniferous period. Yet he mentions 
 that the same formation as that around Fort Belknap is largely 
 developed between Fort Washita and Fort Smith, on Ar- 
 kansas river. The latter fort is not less than three hundred 
 and fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap. On the 3d of May 
 he describes "large quantities of ironstone strewn over the 
 surface," another accompaniment of the true coal. 
 
 Now, at first view it would seem almost certain that we 
 have here a description of a genuine coal formation of the car- 
 boniferous period, not less than three hundred and fifty miles 
 long, associated, moreover, with those valuable iron ores 
 which in other parts of the world are connected with such de- 
 posites ; for, in descending through the formation, we find, 
 first, overlying shale, then coal, then coal sandstone, or per- 
 haps millstone grit, and then perhaps carboniferous limestone. 
 But it is well known that coal occurs in other rocks besides 
 the carboniferous, as in Eastern Virginia in oolitic sandstone, 
 and in other places in tertiary strata. These more recent 
 coals are often of great value, as in Virginia ; but they are 
 not generally as good as those from the carboniferous strata. 
 It becomes an important question, therefore, to determine to 
 what geological period the coal under consideration belongs. 
 
152 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 
 
 A few specimens of the fossil ferns would decide the matter, 
 and I trust that Dr. Shumrad is right in referring them to the 
 carboniferous era; but it is known that analogous species occur 
 in the higher rocks ; and so, coal, even in the tertiary strata, 
 is sometimes more or less bituminous. The evidence, how- 
 ever, appears to me to be strong in favor of this deposite be- 
 ing of the carboniferous age. But in your letter of April 1st, 
 you state some facts respecting this coal that have thrown a 
 little doubt over my mind. You say that — 
 
 " The coal formation at the Brazos is found in a coarse, 
 dark sandstone rock, which is a solid stratum, but is easily 
 removed in consequence of being so soft. In excavating for 
 a well, we passed through the sandstone and the coal. The 
 greater part of the stone was removed with the mattock; and 
 in the coal, which was here about sixty feet below the sur- 
 face, we found fossil ferns, which, unfortunately, were not 
 preserved." 
 
 The ease with which this sandstone was removed, requir- 
 ing only a mattock, corresponds better with the hardness of 
 tertiary than of carboniferous rocks ; yet, in some parts of the 
 world, distant from igneous rocks, the sedimentary strata are 
 but little indurated. 
 
 Your statement respecting the cpal on the Brazos, and the 
 importance of the substance to the future inhabitants of the 
 western side of the Mississippi valley, led me to recur to the 
 journals of other explorers, as well as your own from Fort 
 Smith to Santa Fe, published by the government in 1850, to 
 ascertain whether this valuable mineral does not occur in such 
 places as to justify the inference that a large coal field may 
 exist in that portion of our country. I have not all of the ne- 
 cessary works of reference at hand ; but, in such as I have, I 
 have found the following cases, including those already de- 
 scribed : 
 
 1. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, latitude 33|° to 
 33f°, longitude 98° to 99°. 
 
 2. Between Forts Washita and Smith, latitude 34° to 35^°, 
 longitude 94£° to 96|°. 
 
 3. On Coal creek, near the South Fork of the Canadian, 
 eighty-eight miles from Fort Smith, in longitude 96|°, latitude 
 34f°. "Bituminous coal, used by the blacksmiths of the 
 country, who pronounce it of an excellent quality." (See 
 Captain Marcy's report, p. 173.) 
 
 4. North branch of Platte river, latitude 42° to 43°, longi- 
 tude 104° to 107° ; described by Rev. Samuel Parker, Ex- 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 153 
 
 ploring Tour, p. 73. He calls this coal " anthracite, me 
 same, to all appearances, as he had seen in the coal basins 
 of Pennsylvania." 
 
 5. On the same route, Colonel Fremont found coal and 
 fossil plants in latitude 41£°, and longitude 111°. The fossils 
 greatly resembled those of the true coal measures. He also 
 found what was probably brown or tertiary coal, in longitude 
 107°. 
 
 6. Major Emory met with "bituminous coal in abundance," 
 in latitude 41°, longitude 105°. He was told of a bed thirty 
 feet thick. 
 
 7. Lieutenant J. H. Simpson describes bituminous coal in 
 beds from two to three feet thick, in latitude 36° 12', and 
 longitude 108° 52'; and he states it to be "coextensive with 
 the country between the valley of the Rio Puerco and the 
 east base of the Sierra de Tunecha, or through a longitudinal 
 interval of 7f°." (Report, p. 147.) 
 
 8. Lieutenant Abert found strata, which he regarded "in- 
 dubitable proof of the existence of coal," in latitude 36^°, and 
 longitude 104£°. (Report, p. 21.) 
 
 9. In 1818, Mr. Bringier described "a large body of blind 
 coal (anthracite) equal in quality to the Kilkenny coal, and by 
 far the best he had seen in the United States, immediately on 
 the bank of the Arkansas, a little above the Pine bayou, five 
 hundred miles from its mouth, in latitude 38°, and longitude 
 98°." (American Journal of Science, vol. 3, p. 41.) 
 
 10. On Monk's map of the United States, (1853,) I find 
 two spots in Texas marked as "beds of coal," one in latitude 
 29°, and longitude 100° ; the other in latitude 28£°, and lon- 
 gitude 101°. 
 
 I might, perhaps, add, that Dr. F. Roemer describes a belt 
 of granitic and palasozoic formations, the latter of carbonife- 
 rous limestone and silurian rock, surrounded by a vast deposite 
 of cretaceous rocks, between the Pedernales and San Saba 
 rivers, in the northwest part of Texas. The occurrence of 
 such rocks, especially of the carboniferous limestone, affords 
 a strong presumption that the formation that usually lies next 
 above this rock exists in that region. 
 
 If, now, leaving out the cases described by Fremont as 
 most probably brown or tertiary coal, we locate the others 
 mentioned above upon a map of the United States, we shall 
 find a region lying between latitude 28f ° and 43°, and be- 
 tween longitude 94|° and 109°, containing not less than nine 
 deposites of coal, either bituminous or anthracite ; some of 
 
154 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 them one or two hundred miles long. Its northern limit is 
 the north branch of the Platte river ; its eastern limit Fort 
 Smith, on the Arkansas ; its western limit in the country of 
 the Navajoes, in New Mexico, and even beyond the summit- 
 level of the Rocky mountains ; and its southwestern limit the 
 Rio Grande, in the southwest part of Texas. These limits 
 would give a north and south diameter of one thousand miles, 
 and an east and west diameter of six hundred and eighty 
 miles ; an extent of surface three times larger than that of all 
 the coal fields in the United States hitherto described, which 
 cover only two hundred and eighteen thousand square miles. 
 Yet, in view of all the facts, I think the geologist will be led 
 strongly to suspect that a large part of this vast region at the 
 southwest may be underlaid by coal. The larger part may be, 
 and undoubtedly is, covered by newer deposites, especially 
 the cretaceous and the tertiary ; and doubtless the older rocks 
 in Texas, as already described, may in some districts protrude 
 through the coal measures. But if coal does actually exist 
 beneath the newer rocks, it may be reached, as it has been 
 in like instances in Europe, although no trace of it exists at 
 the surface. 
 
 The above suggestions may seem to embrace a very wide 
 field for a coal deposite. But on locating the several patches 
 of coal upon a map of the United States, I was struck with 
 one fact. Starting with the beds marked upon Monk's map, 
 in the southwest part of Texas, and running the eye along 
 the range of carboniferous limestone described by Dr. Roe- 
 mer, we come to the coal at Fort Belknap ; next to the exten- 
 sive deposite lying between Forts Washita and Smith, in the 
 west part of Arkansas; and all the way we find ourselves 
 almost in the range of the great coal field of Iowa and Mis- 
 souri, as mapped by Dr. Owen; and it seems to me that 
 every geologist will at once infer that the Missouri field does 
 follow this line, not only across Arkansas, but also through 
 the Choctaw Nation, and probably across Texas — interrupted, 
 probably, in many places by the protrusion of older rocks, 
 and in others covered by newer formations. I have a consid- 
 erable degree of confidence that such will ere long be found 
 to be the fact, even if we leave out the other coal deposites 
 further west and northwest. And should the result of your 
 explorations be to bring out such a development, I think you 
 must feel rewarded for your fatigues and privations. 
 
 That some of the cases above described may turn out to 
 be tertiary coal is quite possible, especially those along the 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 155 
 
 base of the Rocky mountains ; for it is well known that much 
 farther to the north such coal is developed on a large scale, 
 especially along Mackenzie's river, even to its mouth, on the 
 Arctic ocean. Nor is it always easy for those not practised 
 mineralogists to distinguish this coal, especially from anthra- 
 cite. Dr. Owen describes the southernmost bed of brown 
 coal on the Missouri (from four to six feet thick) as having 
 "the aspect of ordinary bituminous coal," yet as "smoulder- 
 ing away, more like anthracite." (Report, p. 196.) Even 
 such coal might be of great value; but I cannot believe 
 that much of that described above, especially that on the line 
 above indicated, will prove to be tertiary coal. 
 
 I ought to have mentioned, that among the specimens in 
 my hands is one of lignite, collected July 3, near the sources 
 of Red river, not far from the "Llano estacado," and within 
 the limits of the gypsum deposite to be described. It is an 
 exceedingly compact coal, and burns without flame, emitting 
 a pungent but not bituminous odor. It is doubtless tertiary 
 or cretaceous ; but I think, if in large masses, it might easily 
 be mistaken for anthracite. 
 
 From the 3d of May to June 2d, the formation passed over 
 is, as I judge from Dr. Shumard's sections and descriptions, 
 the predominant one along the upper part of Red river. All 
 the appended sections of Dr. Shumard, except Nos. VI and 
 XI, exhibit the characters and varieties of this deposit. Red 
 clay is the most striking and abundant member ; and above 
 this we have a yellow or lighter colored sandstone, often finely 
 laminated. As subordinate members, we have blue and yel- 
 low clay, gypsum, non-fossiliferous limestone, conglomerate, 
 and copper ore. Overlying these strata is what Dr. Shumard 
 calls " drift," which is surmounted by soil. Excepting the 
 gypsum and the copper, no specimen of this formation was 
 put into my hands ; and only one petrefaction which is a coral 
 from the base of section No. IV, unless the fossil-wood belongs 
 to it. 
 
 Now the question is, shall we regard this formation as ter- 
 tiary, or cretaceous ? With the means in my hands I feel 
 unable to decide this question. If I am right in referring 
 the fossil coral found in it to the genus Scyphia, as described 
 by Goldfuss, (Petrefacta Germanise, Tab. XXXII, fig. 8,) it 
 most probably belongs to the cretaceous period ; for of the 
 one hundred and twenty species of this genus enumerated in 
 Bronn's Index Paleontologicus, only one is found above the 
 chalk. As to the fossil-wood, which I shall notice more par- 
 
156 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 
 
 ticularly further on, it is well known to occur in almost all the 
 fossiliferous deposites. Upon the whole, I rather lean to the 
 opinion that these strata may belong to the cretaceous forma- 
 tion ; though it is singular, if such be the case, that the fossil 
 remains are so scarce, since, as we shall see, they occur 
 abundantly in another portion of the field in which the cre- 
 taceous rocks abound. 
 
 Under these circumstances I shall speak of this deposite 
 under the name of the Red Clay Formation, save where gyp- 
 sum is very abundant, and then I call it the Gypsum Forma- 
 tion ; and thus have I marked these rocks on your map. 
 
 The sandstone which constitutes the upper part of this for- 
 mation has a slight dip, in a few places, of 2° or 3°. On the 
 8th of June, however, a grayish yellow sandstone is described 
 as having a westerly dip of 40°; and on the 9th of June, " an 
 outcrop of finely laminated, red, ferruginous sandstone" is 
 mentioned, having an irregular northeasterly dip of 30°, as 
 shown on section VI. The next day the strata were found 
 standing nearly perpendicular; but whether this sandstone is 
 the same as that lying above the red clay, is not mentioned. 
 If it is, its great dip probably results from some local distur- 
 bance. If it is not, it is probably a protruding mass of older 
 rock exposed by denudation or upheaval. 
 
 The branches of Red river have cut deep chasms in this 
 formation. In some places they are spoken of as fifty, and in 
 others as two hundred feet deep. This clay, worn away by 
 the streams, and mechanically suspended, gives that red 
 color to the water, from which, without doubt, was derived 
 the name of Red river. As to the substances held in solution 
 by the waters of that river, some further description will be 
 desirable before mentioning them. 
 
 The red clay formation above described abuts against the 
 Witchita mountains, occupying the lower and more level re- 
 gions around their base. Here we have an outburst of unstra- 
 tified rocks, which are satisfactorily represented in the speci- 
 mens. 
 
 If the relative position of the red clay and sandstone on 
 section XI is correctly shown, I should infer some disturbance 
 in the stratified deposites, which would indicate a more re- 
 cent upheaval of the mountains than might be inferred from 
 the nature of the rocks. The principal one is a red granite, 
 with a great predominance of feldspar, and the almost total 
 absence of mica. Porphyry also occurs in great quantity, of 
 a reddish color, the imbedded crystals, for the most part be- 
 
APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 357 
 
 ing red feldspar. In the easterly part of these mountains this 
 rock is developed on a large scale, forming smooth, rounded 
 hills, which slope gradually down to the plain. Cache creek 
 passes through one of these hills, forming a gorge from three 
 hundred to four hundred feet high, with " smooth perpendicu- 
 lar walls." This rock Dr. Shumard calls prophyritic green- 
 stone, and one of these walls is shown on section XI. He 
 says that the rock is slightly columnar. 
 
 The rocks of these mountains are traversed by veins of 
 greenstone and quartz. The latter is often porus and colored 
 by the oxide of iron. The greenstone is the. most recent of the 
 unstratified rocks among my specimens, save a single vesicu- 
 lar mass, broken probably from a boulder, which has all the 
 external marks of lava. It looks more like recent lava than 
 any specimens I have ever met among greenstone or basalt. 
 It was collected June 15th, west of the great gypsum deposite, 
 though in. a region abounding with sandstone, and near the 
 bluffs that form the border of the " Llano estacado." Dr. 
 Shumard found in the bed of the Red river, near the same 
 place, what he calls greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and 
 trachite. The specimen to which I have referred is rather 
 augitic than trachitic. He says, also, that he found there 
 "black scoria, and several other specimens of volcanic rocks." 
 Again, on approaching the Witchita mountains .on the return 
 trip, he descripes one as " a truncated cone, with a basin- 
 shaped depression in the summit." Of this he seems to have 
 judged by looking at the mountain from a distance. But 
 taking all the facts into the account, I cannot but feel that 
 there is reason to presume that volcanic agency has been 
 active in that region more recently than the trap dykes. 
 
 I ought to add, that before reaching the Witchita mountains 
 Dr. Shumard met with large quantities of dark-colored and 
 cellular igneous rock, composed principally of si lex and car- 
 bonate of lime, strewed over the surface. This was on the 
 18th of May, and on the 27th he " frequently encountered 
 local deposites of red, scoriaceous rock." Among the speci- 
 mens in my hands are some apparently more or less melted, 
 composed of carbonate of lime and copper ore. 
 
 Again, scattered widely over the surface, numerous speci- 
 mens were found of jasper, cornelian, and agate. The corne- 
 lian is deep red, but found in botryoidals, or even stalactitical 
 masses, and they have seemed to me to resemble more those 
 silicious nodules found is soft limestone than in trap rocks. 
 They were found most abundantly towards the western part 
 
158 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 of the region gone over. I ought to have mentioned that the 
 Witchita mountains consist of numerous peaks, rising from 
 eight hundred to nine hundred feet above the river. Mount 
 Webster, one of the most conspicuous, was found to be 783 
 feet above the plain by the barometer. Twelve of these 
 elevations were found to be composed of granite, which in 
 many places is undergoing rapid disintegration. 
 
 We have seen in the red clay of this region a reason for the 
 name of Red river, and the character of its waters. In the 
 above description of the rocks of the Witchita mountains, I 
 think we may see the origin of the red clay. The great 
 amount of iron which they contain would produce exactly 
 such a deposite upon their decomposition and erosion by 
 water. And we have reason for supposing this red granite to 
 be a quite extensive formation, as I shall shortly show. 
 
 No one at all acquainted w T ith the rocks in which gold is 
 found can look at the specimens you have obtained in the 
 Witchita mountains without expecting that he shall be able to 
 detect that metal. The porphyry, the porous quartz from 
 veins impregnated with hydrate of iron, and the magnetic 
 iron-sand found in the bed of Otter and Cache creeks, excite 
 this expectation. - In one of your letters you state that " the 
 people of Texas have for a long time supposed that there was 
 gold in the Witchita mountains, and they have attempted to 
 make several examinations for the purpose of ascertaining the 
 fact, but have invariably been driven away by the Indians. 
 We searched diligently about the mountains, but could find 
 only two very minute pieces imbedded in quartz pebbles." 
 This, as Dr. Shumard states, was upon Otter creek, and there 
 occurred the ferruginous sand, which occurs also upon Cache 
 creek in great quantities. We have not been so fortunate as 
 to find any gold in the specimens sent, although the sand has 
 been carefully examined, and two assays have been made of 
 the quartz in the laboratory. Yet I can easily believe that 
 gold must exist either among that black sand, or in the veins 
 of ferruginous quartz — sometimes three feet wide — so com- 
 mon in the Witchita mountains. 
 
 It is well known that a good deal of excitement exists on 
 this subject at the present moment in Texas ; but the " gold 
 diggings" there lie upon the upper Colorado. From some 
 able remarks on the subject in the " Telegraph and Texan 
 Register" of April 29th, by the editor, Francis More, jr., I 
 learn that the region where the gold is found is " a belt of fif- 
 teen or twenty miles wide, which extends from the sources of 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 159 
 
 the Guadalupe, by the Enchanted Rock, to the head of Cher- 
 okee creek, a branch of the San Saba." The description of 
 that belt which follows, as you will see, corresponds very well 
 to the region around the Witchita mountains. " The red 
 granite rocks here crop out above the secondaiy formations, 
 and veins of quartz are found traversing the rocks in all direc- 
 tions. The soil is generally of a red mulatto color, caused by 
 the decomposition of the red feldspar of the granite. These 
 rocks resemble, it is said, those of the gold regions of Califor- 
 nia and Santa Fe. A gentleman who has recently visited the 
 Nueces states that gold has also been found on that river; and 
 if the report that gold has been found in the Witchita moun- 
 tains be correct, it is possible that this narrow belt of primitive 
 rocks extends quite through from the Nueces to those moun- 
 tains, a distance of about four hundred miles. It is mentioned 
 in Long's Expedition that a narrow belt of red granite is found 
 jutting up through the prairie region on the Des Moines river, 
 in Iowa, and it is not improbable that this is a continuation of 
 the primitive ridge, extending by the Witchita mountains and 
 the Enchanted Rock, to the sources of the Nueces, and it may 
 extend far above Lake Superior." As to this northern exten- 
 sion of these gold-bearing rocks, I do not find much to con- 
 firm the conjecture in Dr. Owen's late able report on that 
 region, although he does mention some red granite and some 
 red clay; but the latter is probably alluvial. Yet, that these 
 rocks may extend through Texas, and even much farther 
 north, is extremely probable. 
 
 But though your discovery of gold will probably excite 
 more attention, I feel that the great gypsum deposit of the 
 West, which you have brought to light, will be of far more 
 consequence to the country. 
 
 On your map I have colored this formation as you have 
 marked it out. Yet I cannot doubt, from the descriptions and 
 sections, that the gypsum is embraced in the red clay forma- 
 tion already described, for most of this mineral occurs above 
 the red clay, though sometimes embraced within it. Yet the 
 importance of the gypsum justifies me in coloring that portion 
 of these strata as the gypsum formation where it is most abund- 
 ant. It is several times mentioned as occurring in other parts 
 of the region, marked as red clay. But on the 3d of June, 
 high bluffs w T ere met of red and blue clay, with interstratified 
 layers of snow white gypsum. From this time till the 12th 
 the same formation was found, and also from the 2.1st of June 
 to the 9th of July. But your own description of this formation 
 
160 APPENDIX D.~— GEOLOGY* 
 
 in your leter of November, 1852, contains a better account oi 
 its extent than I can give. 
 
 "I have traced this gypsum belt," you observe, "from the 
 Canadian river, in a southwest direction, to near the Rio 
 Grande, in New Mexico. It is about fifty miles wide upon 
 the Canadian, and is embraced within the 99lh and 100th de- 
 grees of west longitude. Upon the North, Middle, and South 
 forks of Red river it is found, and upon the latter is about one 
 hundred miles wide, and embraced within the 101st and 103d 
 degrees of longitude. I also met with the same formation 
 upon the Brazos river, as also upon the Colorado and Pecos 
 rivers, but did not ascertain its width. The point where I 
 struck it, upon the Pecos, was in longitude 104|° W. 
 
 " Wherever I have met with this gypsum I have observed 
 all the varieties from common plaster of Paris to pure sele- 
 nite ; and among specimens of the latter were pieces three 
 feet by four, two inches in thickness, and as perfectly transparent 
 as any crown glass I have ever seen. It is to be regretted 
 that I could not have brought home some of these beautiful 
 specimens ; but my means of transportation were too limited. 
 I regard this gypsum belt as a very prominent and striking 
 feature in the geology of that country. From its uniformity 
 and extent I do not think there is a more perfect and beautiful 
 formation of the kind known. I have myself traced it about 
 three hundred and fifty miles, and it probably extends much 
 further." 
 
 The position and thickness of the gypsum beds maybe 
 learnt from Dr. Shumard's sections, especially No. V, where 
 they are from ten to fifteen feet thick. I do not wonder that 
 you have been deeply impressed with the vast extent of this 
 deposite. Prof. D. D. Owen, in his late valuable report of a 
 geological survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, &c, (1852,) describes 
 a gypseous deposite, twenty to thirty feet thick, in the carbon- 
 iferous strata, and occupying an area from two to three square 
 miles ; and he says that " for thickness and extent this is by 
 far the most important bed of plaster-stone known west of 
 the Appalachian chain, if not in the United States," (p. 126.) 
 Either deposite may be large enough to supply the wants of 
 the- inhabitants who ma} T live near enough to obtain it. But 
 the vast extent of your deposite (doubtless greater, as you 
 say, than is at present known) will make it accessible to 
 much the greatest number of people. Indeed, from the well 
 known use of this substance in agriculture, as well as other 
 arts, a knowledge of its existence must have an important 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 16 1 
 
 bearing upon the settlement and population of northwestern 
 Texas. 
 
 The only deposites of g}rpsum known to me that are more 
 extensive than the one discovered by you are in South Amer- 
 ica. All along the western side of the Cordilleras, especially 
 in Chili, and interstratified with red sandstone and calcareous 
 slate, beds of gypsum occur of enormous thickness, some of 
 them not less than six thousand feet. It has been tilted up 
 and metamorphosed greatly by igneous agency of ancient 
 date, but seems to be of the age of the lower cretaceous rocks. 
 Mr. Darwin, to whose admirable work on the geology of 
 South America I am indebted for these facts, has traced thig 
 deposite at least five hundred miles from north to south, (it is 
 not many miles — sometimes, however, twenty or thirty — -m 
 width,) and thinks it extends five hundred more, and perhaps 
 much further. He also describes thin beds of gypsum in the 
 tertiary strata of Patagonia, and Chili, which are some eleven 
 hundred miles in extent. This gypsum is generally more or 
 less crystalline, and corresponds much better in lithological 
 characters with that in Texas than does the metariiorphiti 
 gypsum of the Cordilleras. Mr. Darwin is of opinion, how- 
 ever, that the latter was originally deposited in a manner 
 analogous to the former, viz : b} 7- means of submarine volca- 
 noes and the conjoint action of the ocean. Very probably the 
 ancient igneous agency which we have described in the Wit- 
 chiia mountains, and along a line southerly to the Rio Grande, 
 may have been connected with the production of the gypseous 
 deposite in the same region. 
 
 The specimens of this gypsum put into my hands corre- 
 spond with your descriptions. One of them, of snowy white- 
 ness and compact, it seems to me might answer for delicate 
 gypseous alabaster, so extensively wrought in other lands for 
 ornamental purposes. The selenite was regarded among the 
 ancients as the most delicate variety of alabaster, and was 
 employed by the wealthy, and in palaces, for windows, under 
 the name of Pkmgites. It has the curious property of ena- 
 bling a person within the house to see all that passes abroad, 
 while those abroad cannot see what is passing within. Hence 
 Nero employed it in his palace. It' the splendid plates which 
 you describe occur in any considerable quantity it may here- 
 after be of commercial value, as it certainly will be of min- 
 eralogical interest. 
 
 From your description, especially in your lecture before the 
 American Geographical and Statistical Society, it is manifest 
 
162 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 that the character of the rocks changes on the northwest of the 
 gypsum formation, and near the head of the south branch of 
 Red river. The red clay and gypsum have disappeared, and 
 sandstone succeeds, but of what age I have no means of judg- 
 ing. 
 
 Another interesting mineral found by you in the red clay 
 and gypsum formations above described is copper. The spe- 
 cimens were put into the hands of Professor Charles U. She- 
 pard, who has analyzed them, as well as several other speci- 
 mens, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and whose report 
 I annex to my own. You will see that he has made free use 
 of your name b}>" attaching it to a new ore of copper, found on 
 Red river, near the Witchita mountains, and that he describes 
 three or four other species of copper ore from the same region. 
 For a particular description I refer you to his report, while I 
 confine myself to a few remarks as to the geology of the de- 
 posite. 
 
 On section V, Dr. Shumard has shown the geological posi- 
 tion of this ore, viz : near the bottom of, and in the red clay, 
 and more than one hundred feet from the surface. We hence 
 see that the ore was deposited from water, although some spe- 
 cimens from Cache creek of calcareous amygdaloid seem to 
 have been melted. But if, as has been suggested, the gyp- 
 sum was produced by the joint action of submarine volcanoes 
 and water the copper may have had the same origin, and this 
 would explain the presence of chlorine in the Marcylite. 
 
 How much copper may be expected in such a region as 
 that on Red river I have no means of judging, because I 
 know of no analogous formation. But as we have proof that 
 it is an aqueous deposite, and that igneous agency has been 
 active not far off, it would not be strange if the vicinity of the 
 Witchita mountains should prove a prolific locality. 
 
 The oxide of manganese described by Professor Shepard 
 may, perhaps, be found abundant and more pure. And the 
 iron-sand, so common in some of the creeks, indicates the ex- 
 istence of magnetic oxide of iron in the mountains. 
 
 Whether the red clay formation and the gypsum formation 
 that have been described are of the cretaceous age or not, 
 there can be no doubt as to the deposites passed over from 
 July 20 to Fort Washita, for among the specimens are two 
 species of Gryphcea, and one echinoderm, much mutilated, but 
 evidently of that period. On the 27th a " bluish gray, highly 
 crystallized limestone" was observed, which cropped out be- 
 neath the sandstone, and which Dr. Shumard says was "non- 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 163 
 
 fossiliferous." It continued, however, to the 30th, or to Fort 
 Washita, where he says, " I observed in it a large number of 
 the fossils characteristic of the cretaceous period." Probably 
 he refers to two kinds of limestone, and not improbably the 
 limestone and sandstone first noticed belong to the carbonife- 
 rous strata already noticed. Among the specimens I also find 
 parts of two species of ammonite, one quite large, but quite 
 characteristic of the cretaceous strata, and resembling some 
 good specimens in the collection of the American Board of 
 Foreign Missions, obtained by their missionaries in the Choc- 
 taw country. I cannot doubt that these strata are largely de- 
 veloped in that vicinity. Indeed, that region has already 
 been colored as of the cretaceous age upon our geological 
 maps. I have, therefore, marked a strip of cretaceous rocks 
 between Forts Belknap and Washita. These are, in truth, 
 the predominant strata in Alabama, Mississippi, and Texas, 
 and I need not go into details respecting them. 
 
 Dr. Shumard frequently speaks of a surface formation un- 
 der the name of drift, consisting of boulders of all the rocks 
 described above, and some others, such as mica slate and 
 labradorite. But I doubt whether this formation be the same 
 which we denominate drift in New England — the joint result 
 of water and ice — for no example has as yet been found of drift 
 agency as far south as Texas by several degrees. Yet there 
 is evidence of a southerly movement among the smaller rolled 
 detritus almost to the Gulf of Mexico, such as water alone 
 could produce, seeming to be the result of the same current, 
 destitute of ice, that produced the coarse unstratified and un- 
 sorted drift of Canada and New England. But amono- the 
 specimens in my hands are several of sillicified wood, and all 
 of them, I believe, are mentioned in Dr. Shumard's notes as 
 occurring in drift, although in your letter of December 5, 
 1852, you speak of masses from fifty to one hundred pounds 
 in weight in the gypsum formation. You may mean its upper 
 part ;* if so, there may be no discrepancy between the two 
 statements ; and I have been led to suspect that what Dr. 
 Shumard calls drift may be only a newer portion of the ter- 
 tiary strata, although, as already remarked, silicified wood is 
 found in almost all the fossiliferous formations. All the speci- 
 mens sent by you, however, with one exception, are dicoty- 
 
 * The fossil-wood referred to in Captain Marcy's letter was found upon the 
 upper surface of the formation. 
 
164 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 ledonous. They resemble not a, little the fossil- wood from 
 Antigua, and the desert near Cairo, in Egypt, both of which 
 deposites are tertiary. One specimen is a beautiful example 
 of a monocotyledon, a cross section showing vessels of the 
 shape of a half or gibbous moon. This fact shows that the 
 climate was warm enough for trees analogous to the palm 
 tribe to flourish ; yet the great predominance of dicotyledo- 
 nous forms shows a close analogy with the existing vegetation 
 of the southern part of our country; nor is there evidence, in 
 these specimens, of a temperature above that now existing in 
 our southern States, since several species of palms occur 
 there. 
 
 The two subsoils analyzed by Professor Shepard, give very- 
 interesting results. The first is highly calcareous; and when 
 the line shall have been exhausted in the overlying soil, this 
 material, thrown up by subsoil ploughing, would be equal to 
 a large dressing of lime. In the other subsoil we have an ex- 
 traordinary amount of sulphate of lime, and a sufficiency of 
 carbonate of lime, as well as chlorine and soda. It seems 
 hardly possible to doubt that such a. basis would need only 
 organic matter to render it one of the most productive of all 
 soils ; and when we think how extensive the gypsum forma- 
 tion is from which this subsoil was obtained, we cannot but 
 anticipate (unless there are counteracting causes of which I 
 am ignorant) that that portion of our country will become a 
 rich agricultural district — I mean the region lying east of the 
 
 T 1 1 
 
 " Llano estacado." 
 
 Only one specimen of common salt (chloride of sodium) 
 was sent among the specimens, and that, as you inform me, 
 " was procured b} r the Comanche Indians in the country lying 
 between the Canadian and Arkansas rivers." 
 
 We are now prepared to appreciate an analysis of the 
 water of Red river, which has been executed in the labora- 
 tory of Amherst College by Mr. Daniel Putnam, under the 
 direction of Professor W. S. Clark. This is somewhat of a 
 mineral water, and you remark that all the waters originating 
 in the gypsum formation have the same bitter and nauseating 
 taste. I think you are right in the opinion that the ingre- 
 dients are derived from that formation. Analysis shows that 
 the taste depends upon the presence of three salts in nearly 
 equal proportions, two of which, sulphate and magnesia, or 
 Epsom salts, and chloride of sodium, are very sapid. Mr, 
 Putnam's analysis is as follows : 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 165 
 
 " Water from Red river — 
 
 Water in fluid ounces 4. 
 
 Weight of water in grammes 127.800 
 
 Weight of chlorine present. -051 
 
 Weight of lime present .033 
 
 Weight of sulphuric acid present .095 
 
 Residue evaporated to dryness, and weighed, 
 probably, sulphates of soda and magnesia toge- 
 ther, weight -168 
 
 "It was impossible, with the small quantity of water, to determine the last two 
 ingredients with absolute certainly. In the calculations following they are re- 
 garded as real. Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric 
 acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with sodium, we have 
 the following results : 
 
 Weight of sulphate of lime .080 
 
 Weight of sulphate of magnesia .073 
 
 Weight of chloride of sodium .084 
 
 Weight of the whole .237 
 
 Per-centage of matter in solution, about .19 
 
 " The analysis of the water from a spring in a gypsum cave, yielded the fol- 
 lowing results : 
 
 Weight of the water, in fluid ounces 4. 
 
 Weight of the water in grammes, about 127.800 
 
 Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid present .011 
 
 Weight of chlorine .01 4 
 
 Weight of lime 090 
 
 Weight of sulphuric acid .227 
 
 The residue was evaporated, and the presence, but not the weight, of mag- 
 nesia, found separate from the soda. The quantity was very small, however. 
 
 Soda and magnesia together, about .130 
 
 " Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as united 
 partly with magnesia and partly with soda, and the chlorine with sodium, we 
 have the following results : 
 
 Weight of sulphate of lime .219 
 
 Weight of sulphate of magnesia .088(?) 
 
 Weight of sulphate of soda .073(?) 
 
 Weight of chloride of sodium. .023 
 
 Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid .011 
 
 Weight of the whole .414 
 
 Per-centage of matter in solution .82 
 
 " The analyses of water, on account of the small quantity, cannot be relied 
 upon as perfectly accurate ; but they are the best I could make under the cir- 
 cumstances." 
 
166 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 Your account of the remarkable canons of Red river, where 
 it comes out from the borders of the " Llano estacado," as 
 given in your lecture before the American Geographical and 
 Statistical Society, has been read by me with great interest. 
 For several years past I have been engaged in studying ana- 
 logous phenomena in this, which seems to me a neglected 
 part of geology. The canons of our southwestern regions are 
 among the most remarkable examples of erosions on the globe ; 
 and the one on Red river seems to me to be on a more eiffan- 
 tic scale than any of which I have found a description. You 
 seem in doubt whether this gorge was worn away by the 
 river, or is the result of some paroxysmal convulsion. You 
 will allow me to say that I have scarcely any doubt that the 
 stream itself has done the work. The fact that when a tri- 
 butary stream enters the main river it passes through a tri- 
 butary canon, seems to me to show conclusively that these 
 gorges were produced by erosion, and not by fractures ; for, 
 how strange would it be if fractures should take those ramifi- 
 cations and curvatures which a river and its tributaries pre- 
 sent. And, moreover, I find cases where I can prove, from 
 other considerations, that streams of water (existing and an- 
 cient rivers) have eaten out gorges quite as difficult to exca- 
 vate as any of the canons of the West. So that, if we must 
 admit that rivers have done a work equally great in one case, 
 all presumption is removed against their doing the same in 
 other cases. I have a great number of facts, which I hope 
 to be able, if life be spared, to present to the public on this 
 subject ; and I am very glad to add the canons of Red river 
 to the number. 
 
 Before Professor Adam's departure for the West Indies last 
 winter, I secured his report, hereto subjoined, upon the recent 
 shells collected in your expedition. It derives a melancholy 
 interest from having been among the last, if not the very last, 
 of his scientific efforts, he having been cut off by yellow fever 
 in January. 
 
 With this imperfect elucidation of the facts collected by 
 you in your laborious explorations, I subscribe myself, 
 With great respect, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 
 
 Amherst College, June 5, 1853. 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 167 
 
 Remarks upon the General Geology of the country passed over by the Exploring 
 Expedition to the sources of Red River, under command of Captain R. B. 
 Marcy, U. S. A. : By Geo. G. Shumard, M. D. 
 
 It is to be regretted that the main objects contemplated by 
 the expedition were of such a character as to allow of merely 
 a partial geological exploration. It was found necessary to 
 traverse a large extent of country in a limited period of time, 
 so that not as many opportunities were allowed for making- 
 minute and detailed sections of the strata as could have been 
 desired. However, it is believed that something has been 
 done towards elucidating the geology of a valuable and inter- 
 esting district of our country, which hitherto has received but 
 little attention from geologists. 
 
 We will first submit a brief account of the geological fea- 
 tures of a portion of Northwestern Arkansas, which will ena- 
 ble us to understand more clearly the character of the deposites 
 observed on the route travelled by the party, and exhibit 
 more satisfactorily the connection of the cretaceous group 
 with the older or palaeozoic rocks. In Washington county we 
 have a fine development of rocks belonging to the carbonife- 
 rous period, rising sometimes several hundred feet above the 
 water-level of Arkansas river. They consist of beds of dark- 
 gray and bluish-gray limestone, surmounted by heavy-bedded 
 coarse and fine-grained quartzose sandstone. The ridges of 
 highest elevation run nearly north and south through the cen- 
 tre of the country, forming a geological back-bone ; the waters 
 from one side flowing eastwardly into White river, and on the 
 other westwardly into Illinois river, both streams being tribu- 
 taries of the Arkansas. 
 
 Wherever the limestone forms the surface-rock, the soil is 
 of excellent character, and for productiveness is unsurpassed 
 by any in the State; but where the sandstone reaches the 
 surface, the soil becomes too arenaceous, and is of inferior 
 qualuy for agricultural purposes. The limestone is generally 
 highly charged with fossils, and, in many places, beds of con- 
 siderable thickness are atmost entirely composed of the re- 
 mains of Crinoidea. 
 
 In the lithological and palseontological characters it cor- 
 responds very closely to the rocks of the superior division of 
 the carboniferous system of Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and 
 
168 
 
 APPENDIX ». GEOLOGY. 
 
 Missouri. The fossils are usually remarkably well preserved. 
 The following are the most abundant and characteristic spe- 
 cies: Archhnedipora archimides, Agassizocritius dactyliformis, 
 Petitaiematit.es sulcatm, Prodv.ct.us cara, P. jmnctalus, P. cos- 
 tatus, Tercbratida subtilita, and Terebralula Marcyi* We 
 have found all these species associated together in Grayson 
 county, Kentucky, near Salem, Indiana, and at Chester and 
 Kaskaskia, Illinois. 
 
 The line of junction between the sandstone and limestone 
 is well defined, there being an abrupt transition from the one 
 into the other. The sandstone has 3 r ielded but few fossils? 
 and these only calamites and terns. 
 
 Veins of sulphuret of lead traverse the limestone at several 
 points in Washington county, and I have been informed that 
 valuable beds of iron ore occur here ; workable seams of bitu- 
 minous coal have also been discovered at a number of locali- 
 ties in the county. 
 
 Proceeding in a southerly direction through the counties of 
 Crawford and Sebastian, the limestone, which, with few ex- 
 ceptions, constitutes the surface-rock in Washington county r 
 dips beneath the sandstone, and the latter forms the entire 
 mass of the hills, rising sometimes to the altitude of a thou- 
 sand feet above the adjacent streams : it is, for the most party 
 the prevailing rock the entire distance between Fort Smith 
 and Camp Belknap. The sandstone is often highly ferrugin- 
 ous, and varies in color from light gray to dark brown. It 
 exists in heavy massive beds, made up of coarse quartzose 
 grains, with intercalations of finer-grained sandstone, occa- 
 sionally beautifully ripple-marked. It corresponds in its lith- 
 ological features with that forming the Ozark range of moun- 
 tains. 
 
 In Sebastian county I found a few Calamites, Lepidodendra r 
 and several varieties of fossil ferns of the coal formation, but 
 organic remains are by no means abundant. Bituminous coal 
 exists in almost inexhaustible quantities throughout the county. 
 The seams vary in thickness from a few inches to seven feet, 
 and they lie in such a manner that they can be wrought easily. 
 Coal has also been discovered at a number of localities be- 
 tween Fort Smith and Fort Washita. 
 
 About a hundred miles southwest of Fort Smith we en- 
 
 * Figures and descriptions of the fossils of these beds will be found in the? 
 appended report of Dr. B. F. Shumard on the palaeontology of the expedition* 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 countered an outcrop of bluish-gray limestone, wln'ch extends 
 across the country in a southeasterly direction for the distance 
 of about twenty miles ; it presents an average thickness of 
 about ten feet, with a dip to the east of 30°. Its precise 
 character could not be determined, as we were unable to find 
 any fossils. 
 
 Pursuing the same direction, twenty-five miles beyond is 
 an outburst of granite, which extends for the distance of 
 twenty-six miles, with a southerly bearing. This is the only 
 example of rocks of igneous origin to be met with between 
 Fort Smith and Preston, and the rough and rugged features 
 of the country where it prevails, forms a striking contrast 
 with the comparatively rounded outline of sandstone hills. 
 The rock is of a coarse texture, and varies in compactness 
 in different portions of the range ; feldspar of the flesh colored 
 varieties predominates over the other ingredients. In places 
 the rocks would form an excellent and durable building ma- 
 terial, but in other portions of the range it crumbles readily 
 when exposed to the action of the weather. 
 
 We observed numerous veins of quartz traversing the gran- 
 ite in various directions, and, at some points, dykes of com- 
 pact greenstone porphyry. Saline springs were found not 
 unfrequently issuing from the base of the range, and the 
 waters, in one or two instances, were found so strongly im- 
 pregnated with saline matter as to induce the belief that they 
 might be worked with profit. 
 
 Passing this range the sandstone again reappears, and con- 
 stitutes the prevailing rock to within a short distance of Fort 
 Washita, where it disappears, and is succeeded b}^ strata of 
 the cretaceous period. 
 
 From this point the cretaceous rocks were found to extend 
 uninterruptedly until we reached the southwestern boundary 
 of the Cross-Timbers, in Texas. From the best information 
 I was able to procure, it constitutes the prevailing formation 
 from Fort Washita, in the direction of Fort Towson, for up- 
 wards of a hundred miles, with an average breadth of fifty 
 miles. It forms part of that extensive belt of cretaceous 
 strata that extends from Georgia to Texas, and which, from 
 the character of its fossil fauna, is now regarded as the equiv- 
 alent of the upper chalk of England, and with that division 
 of the cretaceous group to which D'Orbigny gives the name 
 of VEtage Senonien, (Prodrome de Pakeontologie, tome II, 
 page 669.) Wherever sections of the strata were to be seen 
 they presented the following characters : grayish yellow sand- 
 
170 
 
 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 stone, with intercalations of blue, yellow, and ash-colored 
 clays, and beds of white and bluish-white limestone. The 
 limestone reposes on the clays and sandstones. At some 
 points it attains the thickness of a hundred feet, while at others 
 it is quite thin, and sometimes even entirely wanting. It is 
 usually soft and friable, and liable to disintegrate rapidly 
 when exposed to the action of the weather. These creta- 
 ceous rocks are often full of fossils. At Fort Washita the 
 layers are crowded with Ananchijtcs, Hemiaster, Nucleolites, 
 Ammonites, Ostrea, Pecten, &c, descriptions and figures of 
 which will be found in Dr. B. F. Shumard's report on the 
 palaeontology of the expedition. We saw here some speci- 
 mens of ammonites several feet in diameter, and weighing 
 between four and five hundred pounds. On Red river, twen- 
 ty-six miles from Fort Washita, the sandstone of the creta- 
 ceous group supports about twenty-five feet of ash-colored 
 calcareous loam, which, on inspection, was found to contain 
 terrestrial and fluviatile shell of the genera Lymnea, Physa, Pla- 
 norbis, Pupa, and Helix, the whole resembling species which 
 we have observed in the loam at New Harmony, Indiana, and 
 elsewhere in the Mississippi valley, which Mr. Lyell, during 
 his visit to this country, recognised as the equivalent of the 
 loess of the Rhine. 
 
 The geological formation, as developed in the vicinity of 
 Camp Belknap, consists of nearly horizontal strata of fine- 
 grained sandstone, shale, and soft, drab colored, non-fossil- 
 iferous limestone, whose relative positions correspond with 
 strata of the same character largely developed between Fort 
 Washita and Fort Smith. On the surface were in many 
 places strewn fragments of a reddish gray, igneous rock, con- 
 taining a large per centage of carbonate and oxide of iron. 
 From the frequent indications of the presence of that metal 
 in various localities of this region it is not improbable that 
 this may become hereafter an extensive and profitable field of 
 mining enterprise. Recently a number of seams of bitumi- 
 nous coal, varying in thickness from two to four feet, as well 
 as the characteristic fossil ferns of the carboniferous era, have 
 been discovered. 
 
 The following section, taken about one mile from the post, 
 may give a better idea of the formation : 
 
 1. Subsoil arenaceous, and of a red color ; thickness from 
 three to ten feet. 
 
 2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating ; four feet 
 thick. 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 171 
 
 3. Seams of bituminous coal, from two to four feet thick. 
 
 4. Fine-grained sandstone, of a yellowish gray color, and 
 containing fossil ferns ; thickness variable. 
 
 5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone; thickness unknown. 
 The water obtained from springs in this vicinity frequently 
 
 contains iron in solution. I have been informed that in a lew 
 instances chloride of sodium has been detected in it. 
 
 May 3.— Formation the same as at Camp Belknap. Ob- 
 served, strewn over the surface, large quantities of iron-stone; 
 soil and subsoil arenaceous, and deeply tinged with oxide of 
 
 iron. -. 
 
 May 4.— Saw a number of horizontal layers ot coarsely 
 laminated sandstone ; between the laminations were observed 
 a large number of ripple-marks. Soil good, and of a dark 
 color ; subsoil in some places arenaceous, in others argilla- 
 ceous, and of a deep-reel color. 
 
 May 5.— For the first six miles the surface became gradu- 
 ally more elevated. Here, and elsewhere to-day, we met 
 with a number of horizontal layers of coarse-grained and 
 highly ferruginous sandstone, which was more or less lami- 
 nated, and highly embossed with ripple-marks. In many 
 places we met with extensive deposites of porous and dark- 
 coloied igneous lock, containing a large per centage of oxide 
 of iron. The surface was everywhere strewn witn drift, 
 mostly composed of quartz, greenstone porphyry, and granite. 
 Saw a number of conical hills, varying in height from ten to 
 seventy-five feet, and composed of horizontal layers of sand- 
 stone, of the same character as that first met with to-day. 
 Owing to the rapid disintegration of the sandstone the hills 
 are gradually crumbling away. In many places we found a 
 few loose fragments of sandstone, intermixed with sand, the 
 only indication left of the previous existence of many of them* 
 In this manner has a levelling process gone on for ages, which, 
 if not interfered with, will ultimately tend to the removal of 
 the various inequalities of the surface of the prairies. Soil 
 good; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep red color; this 
 mixino- in the form of sediment with the water imparts to it a 
 red color and disagreeable taste. From the north branch of 
 the Witchita I collected a number of bivalve shells of the 
 
 genus Unto. 
 
 May 6.— Sandstone and drift the same as yesterday, baw 
 a number of blufT banks, varying in height from ten to fifty 
 feet. They were composed of red loam, the relative position 
 
172 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 of which was found to be below that of the sandstone. Soil 
 and subsoil the same as we passed yesterday. 
 
 May 7. — Formation the same. Drift appears to be gradu- 
 ally becoming more abundant. 
 
 May 8. — -During the day we had frequent opportunities of 
 observing the sandstone and red loam. Their relative posi- 
 tions were the same as before, and dipped in various direc- 
 tions at angles of from one to three degrees. Saw a number 
 ol small boulders, composed of granite and greenstone por- 
 phyry- 
 
 May 9.— Did not move from camp. In the afternoon I ex- 
 plored a few miles along the banks of the Big Witchita. 
 The geological formation, as there developed, consisted of 
 finely laminated, soft, ferruginous sandstone, interstratified 
 with red clay, together with drift, which last was much 
 coarser than 'any previously observed. Soil good ; subsoil 
 loamy. 
 
 May 11.— Formation the same as before. Found a number 
 of specimens of peroxide of iron. 
 
 May 12. — Red river, as observed to-day, runs through a 
 thick bed of red loam, which, mixing with the water, imparts 
 to it highly characteristic red sedimentary properties. Its bed 
 was composed of fine sand. After travelling about six miles 
 we came to a small creek with highhluffbanks, near the base 
 of which I observed a number of specimens of green and blue 
 copper ores. Associated with it, as a matrix, was a porous 
 and dark-colored igneous rock, containing disseminated parti- 
 cles of green copper ore. At this point I had an opportunity 
 ot observing the aqueous strata, from which I obtained the 
 following section : 
 
 1. Black argillaceous subsoil; six feet thick. 
 
 2. Soft fine-grained sandstone, of a grayish color ; five feet 
 thick. 
 
 3. Red and blue clay ; from six to ten feet thick. 
 
 These strata presented an easterly dip of nearly two de- 
 grees. I saw during the day large quantities of drift and a 
 few small boulders, composed of granite quartz, and green- 
 stone porphyry. In a few hours we arrived at Cache creek, 
 which runs between high bluff banks composed of red clay ; 
 its bottom was thickly strewn with large, angular fragments 
 of quarts, greenstone porphyry, granite, and hornblende rock. 
 Within a short distance from the creek we found a small 
 spring of clear water, which was strongly impregnated with 
 
APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 1/6 
 
 sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil 
 argillaceous, and of a deep-red color. 
 
 May 14. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I rode 
 to the junction of Cache creek and Red river, near which point 
 I observed a stratum of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone ; 
 in some places it was interstratified with red clay, and pre- 
 sented a south-southeasterly dip of three degrees, (see section 
 No. 3.) Saw scattered over the surface a number of small 
 boulders of the same composition as those of yesterday. Soil. 
 black and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 May 15. — Did not move from camp ; tested the water of 
 Cache creek, and found it strongly alkaline. Its temperature 
 was 75° F. 
 
 May 16. — Passed to-day a number of long, low ridges, pre- 
 senting on one side a gradual slope towards the prairie-level ; 
 on the other, abrupt precipitous terminations. They were, 
 for the most part composed of dark colored scoriaceous rock, 
 containing a moderate per-centage of copper ore. About 8 
 o'clock we came to a small creek, near which I observed a 
 deposite of soft granite, which appeared to be undergoing 
 rapid disintegration. The banks of the creek were composed 
 of horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, deeply 
 tinged with copper, and resting upon a base of red indurated 
 clay. Saw to-day large quantities of drift, containing small 
 boulders, composed, as before, of greenstone porphyry, quartz, 
 and granite ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 May 17. — Formation the same as on yesterday ; saw strewn 
 over the surface a large quantity of reddish-brown and black 
 calcareous rock, containing carbonate of copper and small 
 crystals of calcareous spar. From the drift (which appears 
 to be becoming more abundant and its particles less rounded) 
 I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, and cornelian. 
 Soil and subsoil arenaceous, and of a reddish color. 
 
 May 18. — Saw a number of .deposites of soft, coarse granite, 
 which appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The 
 surface presented large quantities of dark-colored and cellular 
 igneous rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of 
 lime ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 May 20. — Observed several clear springs bubbling up from 
 beneath the surface. Formation the same as before ; soil and 
 subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 May 21. — Met to-day with several sections of finely lamina- 
 ted sandstone of the same character as that before mentioned, 
 
174 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 with the exception that the different laminae were thickly 
 marked with small circular spots of a green and yellow color. 
 In several places I found it interstratified with red clay. Near 
 our encampment a fine section, showing an anticlinal axis, 
 the strata dipping east and west at an angle of three degrees, 
 exposed itself; over the surface were strewn large quantities 
 of dark-colored igneous rock of the same character as that 
 seen on the 18th instant. The drift was less abundant than 
 before ; soil and subsoil arenaceous, 
 
 May 22. — The surface was strewn in many places with de- 
 tritus composed of greenstone porphyry and granite ; soil and 
 subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 May 23. — Did not move from camp ; in the evening I ex- 
 plored Otter creek, which at this point runs between bluff 
 blanks composed of red clay. Its bed was thickly covered 
 with drift, from which I obtained a number of agates, and two 
 small specimens of bluish^ellow quartz, each containing a 
 small particle of gold. By digging a few inches below the 
 drift, I reached a deposite of black ferruginous sand, which 
 upon being stirred, emitted a strong odor of sulphuretted hy- 
 drogen gas. From the creek I obtained a number of univalve 
 and bivalve shells ; the latter principally of the genus Unio. 
 
 Captain Marcy having to-day visited several of the moun- 
 tains, presented me with a number of specimens of soft granite 
 of a reddish-brown color, and of which the mountains appeared 
 to be composed. 
 
 May 25. — Remained in camp. This afternoon I measured 
 with a thermometer the temperature of Otter creek, and found 
 it to be 72° F. Immediately adjoining the creek the soil is 
 good and very productive ;^but at a little distance from it, it 
 is barren and sandy. 
 
 May 26. — To-day we passed a number of sand-hills, vary- 
 ing in height from ten to thirty feet. The only rocks met with 
 were a few small boulders, composed of quartz and green- 
 stone. 
 
 May 27. — The surface was in many places composed of de- 
 tritus of granite, quartz, and greenstone ; saw to-day a num- 
 ber of boulders, mostly composed of hard granite, and pre- 
 senting smooth and polished surfaces. The largest was about 
 fifteen feet in circumference, and would weigh probably three 
 or four thousand pounds. We frequently encountered local 
 deposites of red scoriaceous rock. Captain McClellan having 
 visited one of the mountains, presented me with a specimen 
 of gray calcareous sandstone, which, as he informed me, he 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 175 
 
 obtained from a horizontal stratum of the same, situated within 
 a few feet of the base of the mountain. 
 
 Thus far about twelve of the Witchita mountains have been 
 examined, and have been found to present a nearly uniform 
 appearance and structure. Composed of fine granite of vari- 
 ous degrees of hardness and color, they rise abruptly from a 
 smooth and nearly level plain to the height of eight or nine 
 hundred feet. Many of them are isolated and of an irregular 
 conical shape, while others are grouped together in small clus- 
 ters, and are more or less rounded. At a distance they ap- 
 peared to be smooth, but upon a near approach their surfaces 
 were found to be quite rough, and presenting the appearance 
 of loose rock thrown confusedly together. In many places 
 the granite was observed occupying its original position, and 
 "was variously traversed by joints and master joints, which, 
 intersecting each other at right-angles, gave to the mass some- 
 what of a cuboidal structure. Soil rich, and from three to 
 four feet thick ; subsoil argillaceous and of a red color. 
 
 May 28. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I ex- 
 plored a short distance up and down Otter creek ; its bed is 
 here composed of horizontal layers of finely laminated sand- 
 stone, containing green and yellow spots of the same charac- 
 ter as those noticed on the 21st instant. 
 
 May 29. — Passed a number of the mountains, several of 
 which I ascended and found composed of hard granite, vari- 
 ously traversed by veins of greenstone porphyry and yellow 
 quartz; the last containing small scales of mica. The sides 
 of the mountains frequently presented lofty precipices, one of 
 which was divided from top to bottom by a vein of greenstone 
 nearly perpendicular, and about twenty inches thick. I ob- 
 served no change in the character of the adjoining prairie, 
 except a few local deposites of drift and detritus, from which 
 I collected specimens of chalcedony, agate, and jasper. No 
 rock of any description was observed at a greater distance 
 than a few feet from the base of the mountains. Soil thick 
 and fertile; subsoil loamy. 
 
 May 30. — The mountains did not differ materially in ap- 
 pearance or structure from those before observed ; at a dis- 
 tance, a few of them appeared to present a columnar struc- 
 ture ; but upon a nearer approach this was found to be owing 
 to divisional plains, or master-joints, with weather-worn and 
 rounded edges. I observed to-day a number of clear springs ; 
 the water of several being tasted was found to be alkaline. 
 
 In the prairie we observed several circular elevations, va- 
 
176 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 rying from one hundred to one hundred and thirty yards in 
 diameter, and ascending in some places to the height of three 
 or four hundred feet above the general level. Upon examina- 
 tion, their minora logical composition was found to be the 
 same as that of the neighboring mountains. Within a few 
 feet of one of these, a small ravine exposed to view a hori- 
 zontal stratum of soft ferruginous sandstone. Soil and sub- 
 soil the same as on yesterday. 
 
 May 31. — The mountains presented the same general ap- 
 pearance 1 as on yesterday. From their surface were exhibited 
 a large number of veins, varying in thickness from an inch to 
 a toot and a half, and composed of greenstone, quartz and 
 hornblende. The prairie was here and there dotted with a 
 number of conoid al elevations, varying in height from twenty 
 to one hundred feet. In composition they agreed in every re- 
 spect with the neighboring mountains, with which in origin 
 they appeared to be cotemporaneous. From the drift I col- 
 lected specimens of fossil-wood. The water of springs issu- 
 ing from the mountains I found, upon test, to be alkaline. 
 
 June 1. — Red river, as observed to-day, runs between low 
 bluff banks, composed of red clay. Its bed was in some places 
 thickly strewn with large detached masses of granite, all pre- 
 senting a highly water-worn appearance, and seeming to have, 
 been derived from a neighboring mountain. Soil and subsoil 
 the same as before. 
 
 June 2. — Immediately upon leaving the Witchita mountains, 
 we lost all traces of drift and other igneous rocks. Red river, 
 as observed to-day, runs between high bluff banks, composed 
 of horizontal layers of red, yellow, and blue clay, and finely 
 laminated sandstone ; the latter being interstratified with thin 
 seams of saccharoid gypsum. (See section No. 4.) About a. 
 mile from the river we observed two conical hills — one fifty 
 and the other eighty feet in height — composed of horizontal 
 layers of sandstone, interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. 
 From them I obtained specimens of selenite. Soil and sub- 
 soil loamy. 
 
 June. 3. — To-day we came to a range of high bluffs about 
 six miles in length, and extending in a direction nearly par- 
 allel with the river. At a distance they resembled a long line 
 of fortification ; upon examination they were found to be com- 
 posed of 'horizontal layers of red and blue clay, thickly inter- 
 stratified with snow-white gypsum, (see Section No. 5.) 
 These bluffs appear to be rapidly yielding to the weather: 
 along their base were thickly strewn large cuboidal masses 
 
APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 177 
 
 of gypsum — some ten feet in diameter — that appeared to have 
 been but recently detached from a stratum of the same near 
 their summits. In the blue clay I observed a thin seam of 
 carbonate of copper. The gypsum was also in a few places 
 slightly tinged with the same metal. In a southerly direc- 
 tion, and at the distance of about fifteen miles, we observed 
 another range of gypsum bluffs: they appeared to run in a 
 direction parallel with those already described. The inter- 
 vening country was very rough and broken. Soil dark and 
 fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 June 4. — Passed a number of bluffs of the same composi- 
 tion as those observed yesterday. The surface during the 
 greater portion of the march was whitened by gypsum, which 
 was always found occupying its position above the red clay. 
 In the evening I visited a small hill, situated about three 
 miles from camp, and succeeded in discovering a thin seam 
 of copper ore, as well as large beds of selenite. Soil and 
 subsoil the same as on yesterday. 
 
 June 5. — The country travelled over to-day was mostly 
 composed of sand-hills, varying in height from ten to sixty 
 feet. On the middle branch of Red river we saw long ranges 
 of bluffs, which, upon examination, proved to be of the same 
 character and composition as those seen on the 3d instant. 
 Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 June 6. — To-day we passed a number of bluffs composed 
 of red clay; I did not observe any gypsum in their composi- 
 tion. As we progressed the country gradually became more 
 elevated. Here, for the first time since leaving the Witchita 
 mountains, we met with large quantities of drift, composed 
 principally of quartz and mica-schist. On Red river we saw 
 a fine section, fully exposed, showing a horizontal sub-stratum 
 of coarse-grained sandstone, overlaid by drift; the latter forty 
 feet thick. 
 
 June 7. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 
 
 June 8.— -Passed a number of ravines, the sides of most of 
 which were composed of red clay. At about 8 o'clock we 
 came to a small eminence in the prairie, near which I ob- 
 served an outcrop of grayish-yellow sandstone, presenting a 
 dip of forty degrees to the west. The surface was thickly 
 covered with drift. I saw a number of boulders composed 
 of coarse and fine conglomerate, the largest of which meas- 
 ured fifteen feet in diameter. At 9 o'clock we came to a 
 small creek, with high banks composed of gray calcareous 
 loam, from which latter I obtained a number of shells, char- 
 12 
 
178 APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 
 
 aeteristic of the loess formation; Helix pleheium, Succinea 
 elongata, &c. Soil barren and sandy ; subsoil in some places 
 argillaceous, in others arenaceous. 
 
 June 9. — Passed to-day a number of small ravines, the 
 sides of which were composed of red clay, overlaid by sand- 
 stone and drift. The surface was in many places covered 
 with sand-hills, varying from ten to fifty feet in height. 
 About 8 o'clock we came to an outcrop of finely laminated 
 red ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the 
 northeast of about thirty degrees, (see Section No. 4.) Soil 
 arenaceous ; subsoil in many places argillaceous. 
 
 June 10. — Formation the same as on yesterday. We fre- 
 quently found the sandstone exposed and exhibiting evidences 
 of violent disturbance, the strata being variously fractured, 
 and in some places upheaved in such a manner as to stand 
 almost perpendicular. With the exception of the creek bot- 
 toms, the soil was sandy and barren ; subsoil the same as 
 before. 
 
 June 11. — The surface to-day presented nothing but a suc- 
 cession of hills composed of blown sand, varying in height 
 from ten to one hundred feet. No sandstone or drift was any- 
 where observed. 
 
 June 12. — To-day I observed large quantities of drift, of the 
 same composition as before ; through it were scattered small 
 boulders, composed of quartz and mica-schist. The surface 
 was in many places covered with loose fragments of carbon- 
 ate of lime. The particles composing the drift were fre- 
 quently thickly coated with the same substance. Soil and 
 subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 June 13. — Did not leave camp. 
 
 June 14. — Drift and limestone the same as before. About 
 7 o'clock we came to a small ravine, the sides of which ex- 
 posed a horizontal stratum of coarse-grained sandstone twenty 
 feet thick. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, 
 chalcedony, and fossil-wood. Soil and subsoil the same as 
 before. 
 
 June 15. — The country travelled over to-day was every- 
 where divided by ridges and ravines ; the former sometimes 
 sloping gradually on either side — at others presenting abrupt 
 precipitous terminations. Besides these, a large number of 
 sand-hills, varying in height from twenty to one hundred feet, 
 were observed. The sandstone was frequently exposed. In 
 a few places I found it interstratified with coarse conglome- 
 rate; saw a number of small boulders, composed mostly of 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 179 
 
 greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and trachyte. In the bed 
 of the river I found a large mass of black scoriae and several 
 other specimens of volcanic rocks. Drift the same as on yes- 
 terday ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 June 16.— The surface was broken, and presented a num- 
 ber of sand-hills. Saw to-day large quantities ol drift, which 
 did not differ in composition from that previously noticed. At 
 about eight o'clock we came to a long range of high blurts, 
 which, as we afterwards ascertained, marked the borders o 
 the " Llano estacado." They were composed of horizontal 
 layers of drift, sandstone, and yellow clay, (see Section No. 
 7,1 all of which seemed to be rapidly yielding to the weather. 
 At the base of the bluffs I observed a few small boulders 
 composed of greenstone porphyry. Soil and subsoil sandy. 
 
 j me 20.— During the first part of our route we travelled 
 over a hilly and broken region, consisting for the most part ot 
 a succession of sand-hills, varying from ten to one hundred 
 feet in height. At the distance of five miles we reached a 
 gradual ascent, which soon led us to the summit ot a high 
 and slightly-rolling plain : over its surface were scattered a 
 great many fragments of white carbonate of lime, as well as 
 drift. From the latter I obtained specimens of agate, chatee- 
 donv, &c. During the day I had frequent opportunities ot 
 observing the formation, which uniformly consisted ot drift, 
 interstratified with horizontal layers of red and yellow clay. 
 Sometimes the drift exhibited a calcareous coating, the same 
 as before described. . 
 
 June 21.— Passed to-day a number of drift-hills, varying m 
 height from twenty to one hundred feet. The surface was 
 very much divided by ravines, with perpendicular sides, com- 
 posed mostly of red clay, and varying in depth from ten to 
 fifty feet. Near our encampment I observed a horizontal sec- 
 tion of yellow loam, coarse conglomerate, and red clay; the 
 last thickly reticulated with gypsum, and overlaid by a termi- 
 nating stratum of the same, (see Section No. 8.) Soil and 
 subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 June 22.— Passed a large number of drift-hills. The coun- 
 try, as on yesterday, was very rough, and much divided by 
 ravines, some of which were fifty feet ' deep. Their sides 
 were generally composed of red clay, overlaid by drift ; in a 
 few instances they exposed seams of gypsum. From the 
 drift I obtained specimens of fossil- wood, agate, jasper, and 
 a few water-worn fossil shells of the genus Ostrea. Soil and 
 sub-soil the same as before. ; 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 June 23. — To-day we observed the gypsum frequently 
 exposed. It did not differ in character from that previously 
 described, and was always found overlying the red clay. 
 Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 June 24. — The surface was in many places thickly strewn 
 with loose fragments of white carbonate of lime. About seven 
 o'clock we reached, after a gradual ascent, a high, level, and 
 very fertile plain, from which we obtained an extensive view 
 of the surrounding country, which was very hilly, and divided 
 by numerous ravines. The plain, at its termination, present- 
 ed a long line of high bluffs, composed of horizontal strata of 
 drift, finely laminated sandstone, white limestone, conglomer- 
 ate, gypsum, and red and yellow clay, (see Section No. 9.) 
 The red clay was thickly interstratified with thin seams of 
 gypsum. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, fos- 
 sil-wood, jasper, and chalcedony. Soil and subsoil the same 
 as before. 
 
 June 25. — The country travelled over to-day was very hilly 
 and broken, being much divided by long, narrow ravines, 
 with nearly perpendicular sides, composed of red clay — some 
 of them being over one hundred feet deep. In many places 
 we were surrounded by high bluffs. The drift was found to 
 be unusually abundant — in some places fifty feet thick, and 
 much coarser than before met with. At about eleven o'clock 
 we came in sight of the valley of the Dogtown river. On 
 either side it was bounded by long lines of bluffs, in compo- 
 sition similar to those previously noticed, and varying in height 
 from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet. From the 
 drift we obtained specimens of chalcedony, agates, silicified 
 wood, and jasper, besides a large number of shells of the 
 same character as those observed on the 22d instant. The 
 beds of the different streams crossed were covered with black 
 ferruginous sand. Soil good, consisting of a rich black mould; 
 subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 June 26. — For the first few miles the country was hilly and 
 very much divided by ravines, some of which were two hun- 
 dred feet in depth. The strata exposed by them were inva- 
 riably found to" consist of horizontal layers of red clay, gyp- 
 sum, and drift, each occupying the same relative position as 
 shown in Section No. 9. 
 
 June 27. — Formation the same as on yesterday. At ten 
 o'clock we came to Dogtown river, the bed of which was 
 composed of yellow sand, intermixed in some places with red 
 clay, and covered with small shining particles of gypsum. I 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 181 
 
 observed in the drift large quantities of red and yellow jasper. 
 Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 June 28. — Saw a large number of drift-hills, varying in 
 height from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. After travel- 
 ling a few miles we again came to the borders of the "Llano 
 estacado," which here presented a long line of bluffs six hun- 
 dred feet high, and composed of horizontal layers of drift and 
 sandstone, interstratified with white limestone. From the base 
 of the bluffs to the river the country presented a gradual slope 
 of four hundred feet. 
 
 Section No. 10 is intended to represent the geological form- 
 ation from the river level to the summit of the bluffs; the 
 inferior strata, or those between the base of the bluffs and the 
 river, having been ascertained, from numerous observations, to 
 consist of gypsum and red clay. From the drift I obtained 
 specimens of chalcedony, jasper, granite, and obsidian. 
 
 July 4. — The formation, as observed to-day, consisted of 
 red clay, gypsum, and drift: they were all found occupying 
 the same relative positions as before. Soil mostly fertile ; sub- 
 soil argillaceous. 
 
 July 5. — Observed in the prairie a circular outcrop of finely 
 laminated calcareous sandstone about three hundred feet in 
 diameter, and presenting a quaquaversal dip of forty degrees. 
 Over the prairie were strewn a number of small boulders 
 variously composed of mica-schist, greenstone, and quartz. 
 Red clay, gypsum, and drift, the same as before. Soil and 
 subsoil arenaceous. 
 
 July 6. — Observed a number of hills, varying in height from 
 fifty to one hundred feet; in form they resemble truncated 
 cones, and were composed of horizontal layers of sandstone 
 and red clay. General formation the same as before. Soil 
 in some places fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 7. — With the exception of the drift, which appears to 
 be rapidly diminishing in thickness, the formation did not 
 differ from that previously observed. The surface was every- 
 where whitened with beds of gypsum and loose fragments of 
 carbonate of lime. The former varied in thickness from five 
 to fifteen feet; in it were observed large quantities of selenite. 
 
 July 8. — The formation was mostly composed of red clay, 
 with a few local deposites of soft carbonate of lime and dark- 
 colored cellular sandstone. Saw no drift or gypsum to-day. 
 Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 9. — Again came in sight of the Witchita mountains : 
 the one nearest to us presented the form of a truncated cone, 
 
182 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 
 
 with an irregular basin-shaped depression upon the summit. 
 The formation everywhere consisted of red clay; in a few 
 places it was overlaid by thin seams of gypsum, containing 
 selenite. I observed a number of local deposites of white 
 carbonate of lime. Like the gypsum, it was found overlying 
 the red clay. On our route we passed four conical hills, from 
 fifty to seventy feet high, and composed of red clay, interstra- 
 tified with dark-colored porous sandstone. Observed no drift 
 to-day. Soil dark and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 10. — Formation the same as on yesterday. Soil dark 
 and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 11. — Formation the same as before. 
 
 July 12. — To-day we met with no gypsum. At about 9 
 o'clock we came to Otter creek; its bed is here, as well as 
 elsewhere, composed of finely laminated sandstone, contain- 
 ing small circular spots of a greenish color. In many places 
 this was covered to the depth of a few inches with drift and 
 detritus. Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 14.— Renewed the observations of May 23d, 24th, 
 25th, 26th, and 27th. 
 
 July 15. — To-day we passed a number of the Witchita 
 mountains, but observed neither in their composition nor gen- 
 eral appearance anything different from what had been pre- 
 viously noticed. Near the base of one of them I observed a 
 nearly horizontal stratum of sandstone, underlaid by red clay. 
 The ground was in several places covered with loose frag- 
 ments of gypsum, some of which were found to contain slight 
 traces of copper. In one of the creeks I observed a small 
 deposite of black ferruginous sand. Soil black and fertile ; 
 subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 16. — The only difference presented by the mountains 
 seen to-day, from those previously observed, consisted in the 
 greater number and size of the quartz veins; many of them 
 were nearly perpendicular, and extended from near the base 
 of the mountains to their summits; while others, pursuing a 
 more or less serpentine course, frequently intersected each 
 other at right-angles. The largest was highly ferruginous, 
 presented a more or less cellular structure, and was nearly 
 three feet wide. A few feet from the base of one of the 
 mountains I observed a horizontal stratum of coarsely lam- 
 inated sandstone of a yellowish color, and including in its 
 composition small angular fragments of granite of the same 
 character as that of the neighboring mountains. To-day I 
 examined several of the head branches of Cache creek. Their 
 
APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 183 
 
 beds were thickly strewn with large angular fragments of 
 quartz, greenstone, and porphyry. In each of them I ob- 
 served large quantities of black ferruginous sandstone. Soil 
 fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 17.- — In a number of places the sandstone was ex- 
 posed ; it did not differ in character and composition from 
 that seen the day before. In one place the strata, still pre- 
 serving their horizontal character, presented abruptly to the 
 side of a mountain. Many of the mountains presented a 
 marked difference in character and composition from any that : 
 had been previously observed: instead of displaying a rough 
 and broken exterior, they were more or less rounded, and? 
 exhibited a gradual slope to the prairie- level, while the gran- 
 itic structure almost entirely disappeared, its place being occu- 
 pied by that of fine porphyry of a reddish color. Scattered 
 over the prairie were observed a great many fragments of. 
 granite, greenstone porphyry, and quartz. The beds of the 
 different creeks were in many places covered with black fer- 
 ruginous sand, as well as large fragments of quartz, porphyry, 
 and hornblende. Soil black and very fertile ; subsoil argilla- 
 ceous. 
 
 July 18. — The mountains presented the same appearance 
 and structure, as on yesterday. At about 8 o'clock we ar- 
 rived at Cache creek; its bed was thickly strewn with black 
 ferruginous sand and large fragments of igneous rock. From 
 the. water's edge rose abruptly a long line of smooth perpen- 
 dicular cliffs, varying in height from three to four hundred, 
 feet, and having in some places a slight columnar structure, 
 (see Section No. 11.) Upon examination they were found to. 
 be composed mostly of fine porphyry of a reddish color, which, 
 was traversed by parallel and. nearly perpendicular veins of 
 cellular quartz, varying in thickness from two to three feet. 
 Upon its exterior the quartz presented a deep iron-rust color; 
 but when recently fractured, it exhibited various shades of 
 gray and brown, together with small shining particles of sul- 
 phuret of iron. Soil fertile, and in some places three feet 
 thick; subsoil argillaceous. 
 
 July 19. — I spent the greater part of the day in exploring. 
 Cache Greek, About one mile below, our present encamp- 
 ment I came to the termination of the cliffs. A short distance 
 below this I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of coarsely 
 laminated sandstone, fifty feet thick, and including in its com- 
 position fragments of igneous rock of the same character as 
 that composing the cliffs ; the intermediate space being occu- 
 
184 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 
 
 pied by red clay, which, as before, appeared to underlie the 
 sandstone, (see Section No. 11) 
 
 July 20. — Two miles below our camp of last evening I 
 observed a section composed of horizontal layers of gray sand- 
 stone, containing in its composition small fragments of igneous 
 rock. Six miles from this we struck a seam of gypsum, vary- 
 ing in thickness from six to twelve inches. Soil fertile ; sub- 
 soil composed of red and yellow clay. 
 
 July 21. — During the day we met with frequent exposures 
 of the sandstone and gypsum. They presented, however, 
 nothing different from what has already been described. Soil 
 and subsoil the same as on yesterday. 
 
 July 22. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 
 
 July 23. — Did not move from camp. 
 
 July 24. — The sandstone appears to be gradually becoming 
 more abundant, while the red clay is less frequently observed 
 than before. Saw no gypsum to-day. Soil fertile, and in 
 some places six feet deep ; subsoil composed of yellow clay. 
 
 July 25. — Passed a number of small conical hills composed 
 of red clay, overlaid by sandstone. The latter was highly 
 ferruginous, and contained nodular concretions of iron. Soil 
 and subsoil the same as on yesterday. 
 
 July 26. — Formation the same as before. 
 
 July 27. — At about 8 o'clock we came to an extensive out- 
 crop of bluish-gray, non-fossiliferous limestone, which pre- 
 sented in many places a highly crystalline structure. Its 
 relative position was found to be below that of the sandstone. 
 Passed a number of hills, varying in height from one to two 
 hundred feet, and composed of limestone, overlaid by finely 
 laminated sandstone. Soil fertile ; subsoil the same as before. 
 
 July 28. — To-day the sandstone disappeared almost en- 
 tirely, its place being occupied by limestone of nearly the same 
 character as that encountered yesterday. Soil and subsoil 
 the same as before. 
 
 July 29. — Remained in camp. 
 
 July 30. — To-day we again observed the limestone in great 
 abundance. It presented nothing different in character from 
 that previously described. The sandstone and red clay were 
 also in many places largely developed. Soil very fertile ; 
 subsoil same as before. Started from camp at four o'clock in 
 the afternoon. For the first few miles we found the sandstone 
 largely developed; after passing which, we came to an out- 
 crop of limestone of the same character as that previously 
 noticed. It presented itself even with the surface at an angle 
 
APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 385 
 
 of thirty degrees, and was over a mile wide. Immediately 
 beyond this we came to a deposite of coarse granite of a red- 
 dish color, and variously traversed by veins of quartz. This 
 remarkable formation (as I have been informed) extends 
 about twenty-six miles in an easterly and westerly direction, 
 and is nearly six miles broad. Throughout its entire extent 
 it is said to present the same character, and is everywhere 
 surrounded by aqueous strata. I observe to-day in one of the 
 creeks several boulders, composed of milky quartz ; the largest 
 was four feet in diameter. Soil and subsoil the same as 
 before described. 
 
 July 31. — Shortly after starting this morning we again struck 
 the limestone formation, which continued to be largely de- 
 veloped during the remainder of the distance to Fort Washita. 
 In it I observed a large number of the characteristic fossils of 
 the cretaceous period. 
 
APPENDIX E. 
 
 PALAEONTOLOGY. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE SPECIES OF CARBONIFEROUS AND --CRE- 
 TACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED : BY B. F. SHUMARD, M, Dv 
 
 FOSSILS OF THE CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM. 
 
 CRINOIDEA. 
 
 Cyathocrinos grantjliferus, Yandell and Sham., mss. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. — , fig. — . 
 
 The collection contains a single pentagonal plate of this 
 beautiful encrinite, a perfect specimen of which we found 
 several years since in the superior carboniferous strata near 
 the summit of Muldrow's Hill, in Kentucky. The costal 
 plate from Arkansas exhibits granules regularly dispersed in 
 rows over the surface, which radiate from the centre to the 
 sides of the pentagon. 
 
 It occurs in Washington county, Arkansas, in grayish 
 earthy limestone, associated with Pro&uctus -punctatus, Tere- 
 bratula subtilita, and Spirifer striatus. 
 
 Agasstzocrinus dactyliformis, Troost, mss. 
 
 Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig. 7. 
 
 Cup conical, composed of three series of pieces ; plates 
 massive, smooth, moderately convex ; column none ; pelvis 
 composed of five pieces, quadrangular, greatest width near 
 the upper edges ; second series of pieces five, pentagonal, 
 
APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 187 
 
 length and breadth about equal ; length of pelvis three lines, 
 greatest width five lines ; length and breadth of second series 
 of pieces about three lines. 
 
 We regret that the specimens of this crinoid from Arkan- 
 sas are all imperfect, consisting only of detached portions of 
 the cup. It is a fossil peculiar to the western and southwest- 
 ern States, and eminently characteristic of the superior mem- 
 bers of the carboniferous strata, occurring in some localities 
 very abundantly. The genus is remarkable, from the fact of 
 its being destitute of a column, in which respect it differs from 
 all known carboniferous crinoids. In young individuals, the 
 division of the pelvis into five pieces is well marked ; but in 
 adult age they are usually firmly anchylosed, and often all 
 traces of sutures are obliterated. In the centre of the pelvis 
 we observe a small cylindrical tube running nearly its whole 
 length, closed below, but communicating above with the 
 cavity of the cup by a small opening. This structure, prob- 
 ably the nucleus of a column, is only visible when the plates 
 are separated. 
 
 It is associated with the preceeding species, in the carbon- 
 iferous beds of Washington county, Arkansas. 
 
 Pentremites florealis, Say. 
 
 Pentremites florealis, Say, 1820, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sciences, 
 IV, 295. 
 
 Petitatrematil.es florealis, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 
 33, taf. i. fig. 1 — 4, taf. ii, fig. 8. 
 
 This well-known species is quite common in Washington 
 and Crawford couties, Arkansas. The specimens furnished 
 by my brother are rather more globose than those from local- 
 ities in Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois. 
 
 Pentremites sulcatus, F. Roemer. 
 
 Pentatrematit.es sulcatus, F. Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. 
 p. 34, taf. iii, fig. 10, a — c. — Id. Lethaea Geognostica, taf. 
 iv, fig. 8, a. b. 
 
 We have some doubts as to whether this pentremite is en- 
 titled to rank as a distinct species, or whether it should be 
 regarded as merely a variety of P '. florealis, which varies con- 
 considerably in different localities. The form under consider- 
 
188 APPENDIX. PALAEONTOLOGY. 
 
 ation has generally been referred to P. globosus, Say, by 
 western geologists, from which, however, it is quite different. 
 Mr. Say's description of P. globosus was drawn from a speci- 
 men which was brought from Bath, England. 
 
 It is associated with the preceding species in Washington 
 county, Arkansas. 
 
 BRYOZOA. 
 
 Archimedipora archimedes, Lesueur. 
 
 Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig. 6. 
 
 Retepora archimedes, Lesueur, 1842, Amer. Jour. Science, 
 XLIII, 19, fig. 2. 
 
 Archimedipora archimedes, D'Orbig., 1849, Prod de Palseont. 
 I, 102. 
 
 A fossil peculiar to the carboniferous strata of the western 
 and southwestern States. The associate fossils are Pentre- 
 mites jlorealis, Produclus pwictatus Spirifer striatus and Orthis 
 Michelini. D'Orbigny, in his Prodrome de Palaeontologie, 
 cites this fossil from rocks of the Devonian period, in Ken- 
 tucky. This is an error ; we believe it has not been found 
 lower in the series than the encrinital limestones which repose 
 on the fine-grained micacious sandstones of the knobs of Ken- 
 tucky and Tennessee. 
 
 It occurs in dark-grayish carboniferous limestone, in Wash- 
 ington county, Arkansas. 
 
 •BRACHIOPODA. 
 Pruductus punctatus, Martin.* 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 5, and PI. 2, fig. 1. 
 
 This Productus has a wide geographical as well as vertical 
 range in the United States ; it is also widely distributed through- 
 
 *For synonyms and references, vide Koninck's Monog. du Genre Productus 
 et Chonetes, p. 123. 
 
APPENDIX. PALAEONTOLOGY. 189 
 
 out Europe. In this country we find it commencing with the 
 earliest carboniferous deposites, and extending through all the 
 limestones of this system to the coal measures. 
 
 Figure 1 of plate 2 represents the ventral valve of a speci- 
 men from Washington county, Arkansas; and figure 5 of plate 
 2 an individual showing the hinge line and the form of the 
 beak. 
 
 Productus cora, D'Orbig. 
 
 Prod, cora, D'Orbig., 1842, Palaeont. Voy. dans l'Amer. 
 Merid., p. 55, pi. 5, fig. 8, 9, 10. 
 
 P. tenuistriatus, Verneuii, 1845, Geol. Russ. et. Ural., vol. 2, 
 p. 260, pi. 16, fig. 6. 
 
 P. cora, Koninck, 1847, Monog. du Genre Prod, et Cho- 
 netes, p. 50, pi. iv. a, b, et pi. v, fig. 2, a — d. 
 
 The specimens from Arkansas are all imperfect, yet they 
 are plainly referable to this species. It is one of the most 
 characteristic fossils of the carboniferous beds of Kentucky, 
 Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. It occurs in Washington and 
 Crawford counties, in gray sub-crystalline limestone. 
 
 Productus costatus, Sowerby.* 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 2. 
 
 This Productus occurs with the preceding species, in Wash- 
 ington county, Arkansas, and, like it, has a very extended 
 geographical range in this country and Europe. 
 
 Terebratula subtilita, Hall. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 8. 
 
 Terebratula subtilita, Hall, Stansbury's Expedition to Great 
 Salt Lake, 409, pi. xi, fig. 1, a— b, 2, a— c. 
 
 This shell is very common in the superior members of the 
 carboniferous formation in Illinois, Indiana, and Kentucky, 
 
 *For synonyms and references see Koninck 's Monog. du Gen. Prod, et Cho- 
 netes, p. 92. 
 
APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 
 
 where it usually is found with Archimedipora archimedes, Pen- 
 tremites jlorealis, and Productus punctatus. Its vertical range 
 rather limited, it constitutes one of the most useful guides . in 
 studying the relative position of the various members of the 
 carboniferous strata. This shell is very variable in its char- 
 acters, so that we are liable to multiply species from its va- 
 rieties, unless a number of specimens are under examination. 
 Some individuals are very much inflated ; the dorsal valve 
 exhibits a profound sinus, and the ventral valve a correspond- 
 ingly elevated ridge. Others are depressed, with scarcely 
 any sinus or bourrelet. The specimens I have seen from Ar- 
 kansas arc considerably mutilated. Occurs in Washington 
 county. 
 
 Terebratula marcyi, Shumard. 
 
 Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig 4, a, b. 
 
 Shell small, ovate elongate, moderately convex, sides and 
 front neatly rounded ; dorsal valve regularly convex, rather 
 more gibbous than the opposite valve, greatest height near the 
 beak, no traces of sinus ; beak elongated, elevated incurved, 
 no perforation visible in our specimens ; ventral valve without 
 median ridge, pointed at summit, cardinal border slightly sinu- 
 ous. Surface of each valve marked with from thirty-four to 
 thirty-eight simple rounded strias, which commence at the 
 beak and proceed to the lateral borders and front with division. 
 In general form it resembles T. serpentina of Koninck, (Descr. 
 des Animaux fossiles, 29, pi. xix, fig. 8, a — e,) but its smaller 
 size and the lesser number of striae will serve to distinguish it. 
 
 It occurs with Ttrebratula subtilita and Productus yunctatus 
 in Washington and Crawford counties, Arkansas, in dark- 
 grayish carboniferous limestone. We have found the same 
 species in Floyd country, Indiana. 
 
 Spirifer, (indet.) 
 
 Paleontology, PL 1, fig. 3. 
 
 In the collection from Washington county are several casts 
 of a spirifer like that which we have figured. They are all 
 
 too imperfect for description. 
 
APPENDIX E. PALjEONTOLOGY. 
 
 FOSSILS OF THE CRETACEOUS PERIOD, 
 
 MOLLUSC A. 
 Pecten quadricostatus, Sowerby. 
 
 Palaeontology, PL 3, fig. 6, and PI. — , fig. — . 
 
 Janira quadncostata, D'Orbig., Pal. Franc., Ill, 644, [pi. 
 ccccxlvii, fig. 1 — 7. 
 
 Pecten quadricostatus, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 64, taf. 
 viii, fig. 4, a — c. 
 
 Shell sub-ovate, angulated, convexo-concave. Inferior 
 valve convex, with prominent rounded radiating ribs, crossed 
 by five concentric thread-like striae. Ribs from fifteen to 
 seventeen, of which five are more prominent than the others ; 
 smaller ribs disposed in pairs in the intervals between the 
 larger ones. Superior valve slightly concave, with radiating 
 unequal ribs. 
 
 As we have not been able to consult Sowerby's description 
 of Pecten quadricostatus, we refer our fossil to this species on 
 the authority of Dr, F. Roemer, whose figures and descrip- 
 tions of specimens from Fredericksburg, Texas, correspond 
 very accurately with those we figure from Fort Washita. 
 
 Figure 6 of plate 3 represents the inferior valve of a large 
 individual from Fort Washita, and figure — of plate — the 
 superior valve of a smaller specimen. 
 
 Exogyra ponderosa, Roemer. 
 
 Exngyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, 1849, Texas, 394. 
 Ostrea ponderosa, D'Orbig., 1850, Prod, de Palaeont., II, 256, 
 Exogyra. ponderosa, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 71, tai. ix, 
 fig. 2, a — b. 
 
192 APPENDIX E. —-PALEONTOLOGY. 
 
 Shell thick, ovate, sub-cuneiform ; large valve gibbous, ob* 
 tusely carinated, surface marked with imbricating lamelse ; 
 small valve rather thin, sub-concave, surface uneven, con- 
 centrically laminated. Occurs rather abundantly at Fort 
 Washita, generally in a fine state of preservation. Roemer 
 cites this species from New Braunfels, Texas. 
 
 Gryphea Pitcheri, Morton. 
 
 Pal.eontology, PL 6> fig. 5b 
 
 Gryphcea Pitcheri, Morton, Synops. Cretaceous Group, 55, 
 PI. xv, fig. 9. 
 
 Ostrea vesicularis, D'Orbig. Prod, de Palasont. II, 256, (pars.) 
 Gryphaa Pitcheri, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 73, taf. ix, fig. 
 
 I, a — c. 
 
 Shell ovate, thick, gibbous, irregular ; inferior valve boat- 
 shaped, inflated, divided into two unequal lobes by a longi- 
 tudinal furrow, which begins at the umbo and runs the whole 
 length of the shell ; umbo large, elongate, incurved and 
 slightly compressed laterally. Superior valve irregular, sub- 
 oval, nearly plane, marked with concentric imbricating la- 
 mella?. Occurs in great numbers in the . cretaceous clays at 
 Fort Washita, and more sparingly at Cross Timbers, Texas. 
 Dr. Morton's specimens were obtained from the plains of 
 Kiamesha, Arkansas, and Dr. F. Roemer found it quite com- 
 mon near New Braunfels, Texas. 
 
 Exogyra Texana, Roemer. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 5, fig. 1, a — b, and fig. 5. 
 
 Exogyra Texana, F. Roemer, Texas, 396. 
 
 Ostrea mother oniana, (pars) D'Orbigny, Prod, de Palasont, 
 
 II, 255. 
 
 Exogyra Boussingaultii, Conrad's Geolog. Report of Lynch' s 
 Expedition to Red Sea, 213, pi. i, fig. 9, pi. ii, fig. 10 and 11. 
 
 Exogyra Texana, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 69, taf. x, fig. 1, 
 a — e. 
 
 The specimens of this shell in the collection were obtained 
 by Dr. G. G. Shumard, at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, 
 Texas. They vary very much in their characters, scarcely 
 any two examples being alike. In some the shell is quite 
 
APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 193 
 
 thin, in others massive ; some exhibit prominent rugose ribs, 
 while in others the ribs are but slightly elevated and nodulose- 
 According to Dr. Roemer, this Exogyra characterizes the 
 cretaceous deposites near Fredericksburg and New Braunfels, 
 Texas. Mr. Conrad figures a shell from Syria, which he re- 
 fers to Exogyra Boussingaidtii, D'Orbig., and which appears 
 to be identical with the species under consideration. 
 
 Ostrea subovata, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PL 5, fig. 2. 
 
 Sub-ovate, trigonal, elongate, massive ; inferior valve ir- 
 regularly convex, inflated, thick, umbo obtusely angulated, 
 somewhat prominent ; ribs four or five, longitudinal, irregu- 
 lar, rounded, nodulose ; surface marked with concentric im- 
 bricating lamellae ; superior valve rather thin, ovate, nearly 
 plane, slightly convex near the peak, surface with four or five 
 well marked longitudinal undulating sulci. 
 
 It occurs at Fort Washita with Gryphcea Pitcheri and Am- 
 monites vespertinus. It appears to be quite rare, the specimen 
 figured being the only one furnished by the expedition. 
 
 Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roemer. 
 
 Paleontology, Plate 6, fig. 2. 
 
 Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 402. 
 Kreidebild, Texas, 59, taf. vii, fig. 4. 
 
 Shell ovate, depressed with close concentric undulating ribs ; 
 ribs prominent, rounded, regular, intervals about equal to 
 width of ribs. 
 
 I refer this fossil to the above species with some hesitation, 
 as all the specimens of the collection are either weather-worn 
 or badly mutilated. Nevertheless, if not identical, ours is a 
 closely allied species. Occurs rather abundantly at Camp 
 No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr. F. Roemer's specimens 
 are from the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels. 
 
 Trigonia crenulata, Lamarck. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 1. 
 
 Trigonia crenulata, Roemer, Kreidebild, Texas, 51, taf. vii-, 
 fig. 6. 
 
194 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 
 
 Shell trigonal, thick, with from fourteen to fifteen oblique 
 crenulated ribs in each valve ; anterior side wide, rounded, 
 inflated ; posterior side produced, compressed ; inferior mar- 
 gin rounded. 
 
 From Cross-Timbers, Texas. All the examples in the col- 
 lection are internal casts. Roemer cites this species from 
 New Braunfels. 
 
 Astarte washitensis, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 3, fig. 3. 
 
 Shell ovate, trigonal, a little longer than wide, compressed, 
 inequilateral, marked with fine concentric rounded , striae ; 
 buccal side shorter than the anal, excavated ; basal margin 
 rounded, truncated posteriorly, beaks slightly jjrominent, ex- 
 cavated. 
 
 The only specimen of this species collected by the expedi- 
 tion is rather too imperfect to permit us to make a satisfactory 
 description. It was found in the cretaceous strata at Camp 
 No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 
 
 Cardium multistriatum, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 2. 
 
 Shell sub-rotund, inflated, length and breadth nearly equal? 
 truncated posteriorly, basal and anterior margins rounded : 
 surface of posterior sub-margin with from fourteen to fifteen 
 regular radiating striae ; remainder of surface marked with 
 fine, equal, rounded, close, concentric striae. Beaks rather 
 prominent. 
 
 This is a neat, pretty species ; and it is to be regretted that 
 the specimens collected were not in a better state of preser- 
 vation. It was found at encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, 
 Texas, where it is rather uncommon. 
 
 Panopea texana, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 6, fig. 1. 
 
 Shell oval, elongate, inflated anteriorly, compressed behind? 
 beaks moderately prominent, basal edge rounded, buccal ex- 
 
APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 195 
 
 tremity wide, rounded ; surface marked with irregular con- 
 centric slightly elevated ribs. Length about 2 5-10 inches, 
 breadth 1 4-10 inches, thickness 1-10 inch. 
 
 The only specimen of this species brought home by the 
 expedition is an imperfect cast. 
 
 Locality, encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 
 
 Terebratula choctawensis, Shumard. 
 
 Palaeontology, PI. 2, fig. a, b. 
 
 Shell sub-globose, inflated, sub-pentagonal, front slightly 
 truncated, surface minutely punctate, the puncti only visible 
 when examined through a strong lens ; dorsal valve most in- 
 flated ; beak- obtuse, recurved, pierced by an oval aperture ; 
 area distinct, forming a well-defined obtuse angle ; ventral 
 valve moderately convex, sub-orbicular. Length 9 lines, 
 width 8 lines, thickness 6£ lines. 
 
 It resembles Terebratula wacoensis, (F. Roemer, Kreidebild, 
 Texas, 81, taf. vi, fig. 2, a-c,) but differs in the character of 
 the surface, which. in T. Choctawensis is thickly studded over 
 with minute puncta. It is also a smaller species ; the area is 
 not so wide comparatively, and the front is not so broadly 
 truncate. 
 
 This beautiful Terebratula was obtained from the creta- 
 ceous deposites near Fort Washita, where it is quite rare, a 
 single specimen only having been found. 
 
 Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PL 5, fig. 3. 
 
 Shell ovate-globose, spire pyramidal, volutions about six, 
 whorls moderately convex ; width of body whorl equal to 
 about one-half the length of the shell. Length 1 7-10 inch, 
 width 1 3-10 inch. 
 
 All the specimens we have seen are badly preserved in- 
 ternal casts. Occurs at Cross-Timbers, Texas, in cretaceous 
 limestone. 
 
196 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 
 
 Globiconcha (?) elevata, Shumard 
 
 Palaeontology, PL 4, fig. 4. 
 
 Shell ovate, spire produced, whorls six regularly convex, 
 body whorl shorter than spire. Length 1 5-10 inch, breadth 
 1 inch. 
 
 This is likewise an internal cast. It occurs with the pre- 
 ceding species. 
 
 Eulima (?) subfusiformis, Shumard* 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 4. fig. 3. 
 
 Shell subfusiform, elongate smooth, spire produced, regu- 
 larly conical ; whorls about six, broad, very slightly convex ; 
 suture rather shallow, linear, aperture simple, sub-ovate ; 
 body whorl obtusely angulated. Length 2 8-10 inches, 
 width 1 1-10 inch. 
 
 The collection contains only a single specimen of the cast 
 of this species, and that badly weather-worn. It was found 
 at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 
 
 Ammonities vespertinus, Morton. 
 
 Ammonities vespertinus, Morton, synopsis Cretaceous Group 
 U. S., 40, pi, xvii, fig. 1 Id., D'Orbigny, Prodrome de 
 Palseont. II, 212. 
 
 Shell large, volutions about three ; vertical section sub- 
 quadrangular ; ribs prominent, each garnished with three no- 
 dules, dorsal one most prominent; dorsal margin furnished 
 with a prominent rounded carina. 
 
 This is the largest species of ammonite that has hitherto 
 been found in the United States. In the cretaceous strata 
 near Fort Washita, specimens were found to measure nearly 
 three feet in diameter, and estimated to weigh upwards of two 
 hundred pounds. It is quite common. The fragment de- 
 scribed by Dr. Morton was obtained from the plains of Kia- 
 mesha, Arkansas. 
 
APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 197 
 
 Ammonites marciana, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 5. 
 
 Shell compressed, not carinated, with about twelve simple, 
 prominent rounded ribs, which cross the dorsum and sides of 
 the last volution obliquely, without interruption ; dorsum con- 
 vex, whorls compressed; surface smooth in the intervals be- 
 tween the ribs ; aperture longitudinal, sub-oval. 
 
 Length of last whorl 11 lines, width of do. 4£ lines; width 
 of umbilicus 3 lines. 
 
 The specimen figured as a cast, and the character of the 
 lobes of the chambers'cannot be made out. 
 
 Occurs in the cretaceous strata of Cross-timbers, Texas. 
 
 Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 3. 
 
 Shell much compressed, sharply carinated, ornamented 
 with from 30 to 34 transverse ribs ; ribs simple, distinctly ele- 
 vated, flexuous, commencing narrow at the umbilicus, and 
 widening to within a short distance of the dorsal border, 
 where they are again somewhat contracted ; dorsal carina 
 prominent, sharp, smooth, marked on each side by shallow 
 depression ; aperture elongate-cordate, lateral septa trilobate. 
 
 Diameter 2 4-10 inches; thickness of last whorl near aper- 
 ture 5-10 inch. 
 
 Occurs rather abundantly with the preceding species at 
 Cross-Timbers, Texas. 
 
 Ammonites — {undetermined.} 
 Paleontology, PL — , fig. — . 
 
 Several specimens of a small variety of ammonite, such as 
 is represented in the figure, were found with the two last- 
 described species, but they are too imperfect for satisfactory 
 description. 
 
198 APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 
 
 ECHINODERMATA. 
 
 Hemiaster elegans, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology-, PI. fig. 4, a, b, c. 
 
 Shell ovate orbicular, moderately convex at summit, broadly 
 emarginate anteriorly; anal extremity truncated almost verti- 
 cally, very slightly excavated; ambulacra sub-petalloid broad, 
 situated in shallow depressions, antero-lateral areas widely 
 divergent, extending to the margin of the test, postero-lateral 
 areas much less divergent and short, peripetalous fasciole in- 
 distinct ; mouth transverse reniform, not far from the anterior 
 border, post oral tuberculated space lanceolate; anus oval 
 longitudinal, sub-anal fasciole scarcely visible ; surface of test 
 covered with small spinigerous tubercles, with minute gran- 
 ule in the interspaces. The dimensions of the largest speci- 
 men that I have been permitted to examine are as follows : 
 length, 2 7-10 inches ; greatest width, 2 5-10 inches ; height, 
 1 5-10 inch. 
 
 This exceedingly elegant species occurs in great numbers 
 in the cretaceous strata at Fort Washita. 
 
 Holaster simplex, Shumard. 
 
 Paleontology, PI. 3, fig. 2. 
 
 Shell ovate, sub-cordate, gibbous, regularly rounded supe- 
 riorly, most prominent near apex, which is sub-central, declin- 
 ing at first gently towards the mouth, then abruptly, truncated 
 posteriorly, with a thread-like carina leading from the apex to 
 the anus; oral sinus shallow, rounded; ambulacra flexuous, 
 extending to the base, increasing gradually in width to the in- 
 ferior margin; antero-lateral are as widely divergent; postero- 
 laterals separated by a moderate interval, mouth transverse, 
 oval; anus oval, longitudinal sub-anal fasciole indistinct; sur- 
 face of test sparingly studded with spinigerous tubercles, with 
 numerous microscopic granules in the interspaces. It ap- 
 proaches Holaster ( Ananchytes) Jimbrialus, Morton, (Silliman's 
 Journal, XVIII, 245, pi. 3, fig. 9.) Our specimens, however, 
 
APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 199 
 
 differ from the figures given by Dr. Morton in being less or- 
 bicular in the oral sinus, which is not so profound, and in the 
 anal border, which is more widely truncated. 
 Occurs with Hemiaster elegans at Fort Washita. 
 
 Holectipus planatus, Roemer. 
 
 Holectipus planatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 393. Ibid, Kreide- 
 bild, Texas, 84, taf. x, fig. 2, a — g. 
 
 In the collection from Cross-Timbers, Texas, we find 
 several mutilated specimens of Holectypus, which we refer 
 without doubt to the above species. Dr. Roemer' s examples 
 were obtained from the vicinity of Fredericksburg, Texas. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 ZOOLOGY, 
 
 MAMMALS. 
 
 BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY. 
 
 Ursus Americanus, Pall Black bear. Throughout the 
 valley. 
 
 Procyon lotor, L. Raccoon. Throughout the valley. 
 
 Mephitis mesoleuca, (?) Licht. Texan skunk. Through- 
 out the valley. 
 
 Lutra canadensis, Sabine. Olter. Throughout the valley. 
 
 Bassaris astuta. Licht. Civet cat. Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Canis occidentalis, Rich. Gray wolf. Above Shreveport. 
 
 Canis latrans. Prairie wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Canis . Large Lobos wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Vulpes fulvus. Red Fox. Red river valley. 
 • Lynx rufus. Wild cat. Red river valley. 
 
 Felis concolor, L. Panther. Red river valley. 
 
 Sciurxjs MAGNiCAUDATXJS, (?) Say. Fox-squirrel. Red river 
 valley. 
 
 Tamias quadrivittatus, Say. Striped squirrel. Above 
 Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Pteromys volucella, Gm. Flying-squirrel. Red river 
 valley. 
 
 Castor fiber, L. Beaver. Above Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Lepus sylvaticus, Bach. Rabbit. Red river valley* 
 
APPENDIX F- MAMMALS. 201 
 
 Lepus callotis, (?) Wagl. Jackass rabbit- Above Cross- 
 Timbers. 
 
 Lepus Artemisia (?) Small prairie rabbit. Above Cross- 
 Timbers. 
 
 Spermophilus ludovicianus, Ord. Prairie-dog. Above 
 Cross-Timbers. 
 
 Didelphys Virginiana, Shaw. Opossum. Red river valley. 
 
 Cervus Virginiana, Penn. Deer. Red river valley. 
 
 Cervus canadensis. Elk ; only about Witchita mountains. 
 
 Antilocapra Americana, Ord. Antelope. Above Cross- 
 Timbers. 
 
 Bos Americanus, L* Above Cache creek 
 
102 
 
 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 REPTILES. 
 
 BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD. 
 
 SERPENTS. 
 
 The serpents collected by Captains Marcy and McClellan 
 belong to ten species, distributed into eight genera. Several 
 of these species had previously been received from other sec- 
 tions of the country; three, however, were first collected 
 during the expedition. All are here figured for the first time, 
 except Ophibolus Sayi, of which a hitherto undescribed va- 
 riety is represented. 
 
 I. CROTALUS, Linn. 
 
 This genus is characterized by its erectile poison fangs, and 
 by having the upper surface of the head covered with small 
 plates resembling the scales on the body, and with only a few 
 larger ones in front. There is a deep pit between the eyes 
 and the nostrils. The plates under the tail are undivided, and 
 the tail is terminated by a rattle. Scales carinated. 
 
 1. Crotalus confluentus, Say. 
 
 Zoology, PI. 1. 
 
 Spec. char. — Head subtriangular. Plates on top of head 
 squamiform, irregular, angulated, and imbricated; scales be- 
 tween superciliaries small, numerous, uniform. Four rows 
 of scales between the suborbital series (which only extends 
 to the centre of the orbit) and the labials. Labials 15 or 18, 
 nearly uniform. Dorsal series 27-29. Dorsal blotches 
 quadrate, concave before and behind; intervals greater be- 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 203 
 
 hind. Spots transversely quadrate posteriorly, ultimately 
 becoming 10 or 12 half rings. Two transverse lines on super- 
 ciliaries, enclosing about one-third. Stripe from superciliary 
 to angle of jaws, crosses angle of the mouth on the second 
 row above labial. Rostral margined with lighter. 
 
 Syn.— Crotalus confluentus, Say, in Long's Exped. Rocky Mts. 
 II, 1823, 48. B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 8. 
 
 C. Lecontei, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 1851, 
 
 180. 
 
 Description. — This speeies bears a considerable resem- 
 blance to C. atrox, but the body is more slender and compact. 
 Scales on the top of the head anterior to the supercilianes 
 nearly uniform in size. Line of scales across from one nostril 
 to the other consists of six, not four, as in C atrox. Supercil- 
 ianes more prominent, Labial series much smaller. Upper 
 anterior orbitals much smaller, as also is the anterior nasal. 
 Scales on the top of the head less carinated. Scales between 
 superciliaries smaller and more numerous, five or six in num- 
 ber instead of four. Two lateral rows of scales smooth; first, 
 second, and third gradually increasing in size. Scales more 
 linear than in C. atrox. 
 
 General color yellowish brown, with a series of subquad- 
 rate dark blotches, with the corners rounded and the anterior 
 and posterior sides frequently concave, the exterior convex. 
 These blotches are ten or eleven scales wide and four or five 
 long, lighter in the centre, and margined for one-third of a 
 scale with light yellowish. The intervals along the back light 
 brown, darker than the margins of the blotches. Anteriorly 
 the interval between the dark spots is but a single scale ; pos- 
 teriorly it is more, becoming sometimes two scales ; where 
 also the spots are more rhomboidal or lozenge-shaped ; nearer 
 the tail, however, they become transversely quadrate. The 
 fundamental theory of coloration might be likened to that of 
 Crotalus adamanteus, viz : of forty or fifty light lines decussat- 
 ing each other from opposite sides ; but the angles of decussa- 
 tion, instead of being acute, are obtuse, and truncated or 
 rounded off throughout. Along the third, fourth, and fifth 
 lateral rows of scales is a series of indistinct brown blotches 
 covering a space of about four scales, and falling opposite to 
 the dorsal blotches : between these blotches, and opposite to 
 the intervals of the dorsal blotches, are others less distinct. 
 
204 
 
 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 Along the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth rows is a second 
 series of obsolete blotches, each covering a space of about 
 four scales, and just opposite the intervals between the dorsal 
 spots. The dorsal and lower series are separated by an in- 
 terval of three scales ; this interval light brown. Beneath, 
 the color is dull yellowish, and ten or twelve darker half-rings 
 are visible on the tail. 
 
 In point of coloration, the principal features, as compared 
 with G. atrox, lie in the disposition of the dorsal blotches in 
 subquadrate spots instead of subrhomboids ; the intervals thus 
 forming bands across the back perpendicular to the longitudi- 
 nal axis. This tendency to assume the subquadrangular pat- 
 tern has broken up the chain- work into isolated portions, as in 
 Ophibolus eximius or Crotalophorus tergeminus. The intervals 
 of the dorsal blotches are wide, and darker in the middle, 
 while in C. atrox they are narrow, not linear, and unicolor. 
 The sides of the head present the usual light stripe from the 
 posterior extremity of the superciliary ; it passes, however, 
 to the angle of the jaw on the neck, along the second row of 
 scales above the labials. A second stripe passes in front of 
 the eye to the labials, widening there. A small light vertical 
 bar is seen below the pit, and another on the outer edge of the 
 rostral. On the superciliaries are two light transverse lines 
 enclosing a space nearly one-third of the whole surface. In 
 C. atrox there is a single median line. Sometimes, as in C. 
 atrox, the single blotches on the nape are replaced by two 
 elongated ones parallel to each other. 
 
 Dorsal row of scales, 29 ; abdominal scutelke, 180 ; sub- 
 caudal ones, 27. Total length, 34 inches ; length of tail, 4 
 inches. 
 
 A specimen was collected the 5th of June in the Witchita 
 mountains. Another specimen of the same species was 
 brought home from the Cross-Timbers, Arkansas, by Dr. S. 
 W. Woodhouse, and described by Dr. Hallowell as new, un- 
 der the name of Crotahs Lecontei, on the ground that the ante- 
 rior vertebral spots are not confluent. This we do not con- 
 sider as a sufficiently distinctive character, although we have 
 never seen a specimen with decidedly confluent markings. 
 The notes of Dr. Leconte, quoted by Dr. Hallowell, hardly 
 apply to the present species. 
 
 The species was first discovered by Say, on Major Long's 
 expedition to the Rocky mountains, and has not since been 
 seen until procured first by Dr. Woodhouse, and then by 
 Captain Marcy and the Mexican boundary commission. It 
 
APPENDIX F.— REPTILES. 205 
 
 was found by the latter party in Western Texas, where, how- 
 ever, it is rare. 
 
 Plate I represents Crotalus confluentus of natural size. 
 
 II. EUTVENIA, B. & G. 
 
 This genus is composed of numerous species, some of 
 them quite common, and known under the names of Riband, 
 Striped, and Garter snakes ; inoffensive, like most of the 
 North American snakes. They may be recognised by three 
 light stripes on a darker ground, the intervals between these 
 stripes provided with alternating or tessellated blackish spots. 
 The scales have a ridge or small keel along their middle, and 
 are arranged in 19 or 21 longitudinal rows. The post abdom- 
 inal or anal scutella is entire, like the others. There is one 
 anterior orbital plate and three posterior. The body is either 
 moderately stout or else slender, according to the species. Of 
 the two described in this article, one belongs to the division 
 with a slender body and 19 dorsal rows of scales, and the 
 other to the second division, with a stouter body and 21 dor- 
 sal rows of scales. 
 
 2. EutjEnia proxima, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PL II. 
 
 Spec. char. — Body stoutest of the division. Black above ; 
 three longitude stripes, the dorsal ochraceous yellow or brown, 
 lateral greenish white or yellow. Total length about three 
 and a half times that of the tail. 
 
 Syn.-— Coluber prozimus, Say, in Long's Expd. to Rock. 
 Mts. I, 1823, 187.— Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. 
 V, 1827, 353. 
 
 Eutainia proxima, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. 1. 1853, 25. 
 
 Desc. — Deep brown, almost black, above and on the sides ; 
 beneath greenish white. Dorsal stripe on one and two halt 
 rows of scales, ochraceous yellow, lateral stripe on the 3d 
 
206 
 
 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 and 4th rows of scales, greenish yellow or white, markedly 
 different in tint from the dorsal. Sides of abdominal scutellae, 
 and 1st and 2d dorsal series, of the same color as the back. 
 On stretching the skin, numerous short white lines are visible. 
 Occipital plates with two small approximated spots on the 
 line of junction. Orbitals whitish. The greenish white of 
 the abdomen becomes more yellow anteriorly. 
 
 Head more like that of E. saurita than of E Faireyi, while 
 the body is stouter than in either. The subcaudal scales are 
 less numerous than in the other two allied species. Resemb- 
 ling E. Faireyi in color, it is always distinguishable by the 
 stouter body, fewer caudal scales, and dissimilarity of color 
 in the longitudinal stripes. 
 
 Dorsal rows of scales 19, all keeled ; abdominal scutellae 
 170 ; subcaudal ones 100. Total length 33 inches ; length 
 of tail 9 inches. Found at Camp No. 7. 
 
 The species is represented in natural size on Plate II. 
 
 3. Cut^enia marciana, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. III. 
 
 Spec. char. — Prominent color light brown; a vertebral 
 paler line and one lateral on each side, more or less indis- 
 tinct. Three series of square black spots on each side, of 
 about 56-60 in each series, from occiput to anus. Sides of 
 head black, with a crescentic patch of yellowish posterior to 
 the labial plates. Three and sometimes four black vittae radi- 
 ating from the eye across the jaws. A double white spot 
 with a black margin on the suture of occipital plates. 
 
 Syn. — Eutainia marciana, B. and G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
 
 1853, 36. 
 • 
 Desc — The markings about the head are generally very 
 constant and distinct. Viewed laterally, we see first the large 
 dark-brown patch at the back part of the head, extending as 
 far back as the posterior extremity of the jawbones. In the 
 anterior part of this patch is seen the crescentic patch (con- 
 cave before) of yellowish white, with a more or less narrow 
 dark-brown margin anteriorly. The next black band starts 
 from the posterior edge of the superciliaries, and passes ob- 
 liquely downwards and backwards along the posterior edge 
 of the 6th upper labial. Similar black margins are seen on 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 207 
 
 the posterior edges of the 5th and 4th labials, the intervening 
 spaces being yellowish white, particularly on the 5th upper 
 labial. Occasionally the posterior margins of the 7th and 3d 
 labials have the black line as well as those mentioned, which 
 frequently extend across to the posterior margins of the corres- 
 ponding lower labials. The white spot on the anterior por- 
 tion of the occipital suture is always margined with black. 
 
 The six series of black spots are arranged so as to alter- 
 nate with each other. The lower or third series on each side 
 is below the indistinct lateral stripe. The posterior edge of 
 each abdominal scutella shows a black margined spot on 
 each side. The dorsal line is generally a single scale in 
 width, occasionally including portions of the lateral, and itself 
 sometimes encroached upon by the black spots. Each spot 
 is about a scale or a scale and a half long, and about three 
 scales broad. The number in the dorsal series from the head 
 to the anus varies from 56 to 60. Posterior edges of scales 
 very slightly emarginate, if at all. All are decidedly keeled. 
 
 Dorsal scales disposed in 21 rows ; abdominal scutelke, 
 152; subcaudal, 75. Total length 34 inches ; length of tail 
 8 inches. 
 
 Collected between Camp 5 and Red river, on the open 
 prairie. 
 
 This species is very widely distributed in the south and 
 west. Red river forms its limit on the north, and the Gulf of 
 Mexico on the east ; but it extends to the Rocky mountains on 
 the west, and far into Mexico on the south. Its centre of dis- 
 tribution appears to be on the lower Rio Grande. 
 
 Plate III represents this species in natural size. 
 
 III. HETERODON, Pal de B. 
 
 This genus is eminently characterized by the peculiarity of 
 its snout, which is terminated by a triangular plate recurved 
 upwards ; hence the popular appellation of hog-nose snake. 
 Though perfectly harmless, they exhibit a threatening appear- 
 ance, when approached, in the flattening of their head and 
 violent hissings ; hence the names of bio wing- viper, spreading- 
 adder, &c. Their body is short, stout, and the tail also short. 
 The head is broad and short. The dorsal scales are cari- 
 nated, and arranged in 23-27 rows. The preanal or postab- 
 dominal scutella is bifid; a chain of small plates beneath the 
 eye, completed above by the superciliaries. There is a sup- 
 plementary plate on the top of the head, behind the prominent 
 
208 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 rostral, either in contact with the frontals, or separated by 
 smaller plates. The colors are light, with dorsal and lateral 
 darker blotches, or else brown, with dorsal transverse light 
 bars ; sometimes entirely black. 
 
 One species only was collected on the Red River explora- 
 tion. Six species are known to exist in the United States. 
 
 4. Heterodon nascius, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. IV. 
 
 Spec. char. — Vertical plate broader than long. Rostral 
 excessively broad and high. Az}^gos plate surrounded behind 
 and on the sides by many small plates (12-15.) A second 
 loral. Labials short and excessively high. Dorsal rows of 
 scales 23, exterior alone smooth. A dorsal series of about 50 
 blotches, with four or five other series on each side. Body 
 beneath, black. A narrow white line across the middle of 
 the superciliaries ; a second behind the rostral. A broad 
 dark patch from the eye to the angle of the mouth, crossing 
 the two postlabials. 
 
 Syn. — Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. Reptiles in Stansbury's 
 Expl. Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 352.— B. &*G. 
 Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 61. 
 
 Desc. — 'Vertical plate very broad, subhexagonal. Occipi- 
 tal short. Rostral very broad, high, more so than in the other 
 species, outline rounded. The interval between the opposite 
 frontals, the rostral, and the vertical occupied by a number 
 of small plates, from 10 to 12, or more, arranged without any 
 symmetry, on each side and behind the small azygos. The 
 base of the rostral between the opposite prenasals is generally 
 margined by these small plates, which sometimes, too, are 
 seen between the vertical and the anterior portion of the su- 
 perciliaries. This crowding of plates causes the anterior part 
 of the forehead to be broader than in H. simus. Eye small, 
 Its centre rather posterior to the middle of the imaginary line 
 connecting the tip of rostral with the lower angle of the post- 
 labial, which line scarcely crosses the eyeball. Orbital plates, 
 10-13 in number. Loral triangular, rather longer than high, 
 separated from the frontal by a small plate. Nasals rather 
 short, occasionally with the lower part of the nostril bounded 
 by a small plate. Labials 8 or 9 above, all of them higher 
 than long; indeed, their vertical extension is much greater 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 209 
 
 than in any other species: the 6th highest; centre of eye 
 over the junction of the 5th and 6th. 
 
 Dorsal rows of scales 23, outer row smooth, rest all dis- 
 tinctly carinated, the keels extending to the ends of the scales ; 
 those just behind the occipital plates truncate^, with obsolete 
 carinae. Scales on the hind part of the body rather broader 
 and shorter than anteriorly ; the inequality scarcely evident 
 in large specimens. 
 
 Ground-color light brown or yellowish gray, with about 50 
 dorsal blotches from head to tip of tail ; the 39th opposite the 
 anus. These blotches are quite small, rather longer trans- 
 versely, subquadrate, or rounded, indistinctly margined with 
 black, (obsoletely on the outside ;) they cover 7 to 9 scales 
 across, are 2 to 2£ long, and separated by interspaces of 1J 
 scales, which are pretty constant throughout, though rather 
 narrower on the tail. On each side of the dorsal row may 
 be made out, under favorable circumstances, four alternating 
 rows of blotches ; the first on the contiguous edges of the 
 scales of the first and second exterior dorsal rows ; the second 
 on the scales of the 3d row, and the adjacent edges of those 
 in the 2d and 4th; the third on the scales of the 4th, 5th, and 
 6th, and the adjacent edges of the 3d and 7th; and the fourth 
 on the scales of the 6th, 7th, and 8th rows, and the adjacent 
 edges of those of the 5th. This last is opposite the intervals 
 of the dorsal series ; the rest alternate with it. The central 
 inferior surface of the abdominal scutellae is black, sharply 
 variegated with quadrate spots of yellowish white; the por- 
 tion of the scutellae entering into the side of the body is yel- 
 lowish white, with that part opposite the dorsal intervals dark 
 brown, thus, in fact, constituting a fifth lateral series of 
 blotches, alternating with the lowest already mentioned. The 
 throat and chin are unspotted. The head is light brown, 
 with a narrow whitish line finely margined before and behind 
 with black, which crosses in front of the centre of the verti- 
 cal, and through the middle of the superciliaries : a second 
 similar but more indistinct line runs parallel to this just be- 
 hind the rostral, and extending down in front of the eye. A 
 third equally indistinct and similar line crosses the posterior 
 angle of the vertical, and runs back on the side of the neck, 
 behind the labials and temporal shields. There is a broad 
 brown patch from the back part of the eye to the angle of the 
 mouth, across the penultimate and last labial. The colora- 
 tion is thus very different from that of H. simus, where there 
 is a distinct narrow black band across the forehead scarcely 
 14 
 
210 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 involving the vertical, and passing through the eye to the 
 angle of the mouth across the last labial. Behind this a much 
 broader yellowish band, continued without interruption into 
 the neck behind the angle' of the mouth. In H. nasicus the 
 most conspicuous feature is a narrow white band, much nar- 
 rower than the darker patch before and behind it. The dark 
 patch, to the angle of the mouth is much broader, continuous 
 as it were, with the broad bar between the middle and ante- 
 rior light lines, which corresponds with the narrow black line 
 of H. simus. The other distinguishing features are evident. 
 The three dark patches behind the head are much as in H. 
 simus. 
 
 In large specimens from Sonora and the Copper Mines of the 
 Gila, (Fort Webster,) the ground-color is yellowish gray, each 
 scale minutely punctuate with brown. The blotches are all 
 obsolete, only one dorsal and two lateral on each side being 
 defined by darker shades. The blotches on the sides of the 
 abdomen are wanting, but the black in the middle is strongly 
 marked. The other characters, however, are preserved, ex- 
 cept that the exterior row of dorsal scales is more or less cari- 
 nated. 
 
 Specimens of this species vary in the number of small 
 postrostral plates. In some there are only three or four, in 
 others a larger number. Sometimes, instead of a single series 
 of median dorsal spots, there are two, in close contact, and 
 more or less confluent. The narrow light line across the 
 middle of the superciliaries and the high labials are always 
 highly characteristic. 
 
 The specimen figured of natural size on Plate IV is much 
 smaller than those alluded to from Sonora and the Copper 
 Mines, and upon which the foregoing description has been 
 based. 
 
 IV. PITUOPH1S, Holbr. 
 
 This genus, closely allied to Heterodon, is characterized by 
 a prominent snout, the rostal plate elevated and convex, with- 
 out, however, being recurved. There are two pairs of post- 
 frontal plates instead of one, and occasionally also two verti- 
 cals ; three or four postorbitals ; generally two, sometimes only 
 one anteriorly. The scales are carinated along the back, 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 211 
 
 smooth on the sides, and constituting from 29-35 dorsal row?. 
 The preanal or postabdominal scuttellae is entire 
 
 The ground-colors are either whitish or reddish yellow, 
 with a triple series of patches, those of the medial series the 
 largest, and several series of smaller blotches on the sides. 
 Abdomen unicolor or spotted, with an outer row of blotches. 
 Head of same color as the body, maculated with black spots. 
 A narrow band of black across the upper surface between the 
 eyes, and a postocular vitta on each side, extending obliquely 
 from the eye down to the angle of the mouth. A black ver- 
 tical patch is often seen beneath the eye. 
 
 The names of Bull, Pine, and Pilot snake, are commonly 
 given to different species of this genus, which are all of great 
 size, including in fact some of the largest serpents of North 
 America. Some of the species utter a hissing or blowing 
 sound. 
 
 5. Pituophis McClellanii, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. V. 
 
 Spec. char. — Head subelliptical. Rostral plate very nar- 
 row. Anteorbitals 2 ; postorbitals 4. Dorsal rows 33-35 ; 
 the 7 outer rows smooth. Tail-forming 1-9 or 1-10 of total 
 length. Postocular vitta brown, and rather broad. Suborbital 
 black patch conspicuous ; commissure of labials black. Color 
 of body reddish yellow, with a series of 53 blotches from head 
 to origin of tail. Blotches of adjoining series, on either side, 
 confluent across the light spaces between medial blotches. 
 Flanks covered with small blotches, forming 3 or 4 indistinct 
 series. Twelve transverse jet-black bars across the tail. Ab- 
 domen yellowish, thickly maculated with black patches. 
 
 Syn. — Pituophis McClellani, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. 
 I, 1853, 68.— Pilot-snake. 
 
 Desc — Head proportionally large, ovoid, distinct from the 
 body. Snout pointed. Occipital plates small. Vertical 
 broad, subpentagonal, slightly concave on the sides. Super- 
 ciliaries large. Internal postfrontals rather narrow, elongated ; 
 
212 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 external postfrontals quadrilateral, a little broader forwards. 
 Prefrontals irregularly quadrangular. Rostral very narrow, 
 extending halfway between the prefrontals, convex and raised 
 above the surface of the snout. Nostrils in the middle line 
 between the nasals, the posterior of which is a little the smaller. 
 Loral trapezoidal, proportionally large. Inferior anteorbital 
 very small, resting upon the fourth upper labial. Postorbitals 
 varying in comparative size. Temporal shields small, re- 
 sembling scales. Upper labials 8 ; 6th and 7th the larger. 
 Lower labials 12 ; 6th and 7th largest. Posterior mental 
 shields very small, extending to opposite the junction of the 
 7th and 8th lower labials. Scales proportionally small, in 
 33-35 rows, the 7 outer ones perfectly smooth and somewhat 
 larger than the remaining rows. 
 
 Ground color yellowish brown, with three series of dorsal 
 black blotches, 53 in number, from the head to opposite the 
 anus, with 12 on the tail, in the shape of transverse bars. 
 Those of the medial series the larger, and covering 8 or 9 
 rows of scales. On the anterior part of the body they are 
 subcircular, embracing longitudinally four scales ; posteriorly 
 they become shorter by one scale. The light spaces between 
 are a little narrower than the blotches themselves for the 
 twelve anterior blotches, and wider than the blotches for the 
 remaining length of the body. The blotches of the adjoining 
 series alternate with those of the medial series, being opposite 
 to the light intermediate spaces across which the blotches of 
 either sides are generally united by a transverse narrow 
 band. The flanks are densely covered with small and irreg- 
 ular blotches, forming three indistinct series, confluent in ver- 
 tical bars towards the origin of the tail. Inferior surface of 
 the head yellowish, unicolor. Abdomen dull yellow, with 
 crowded brownish black blotches in series on the extremity 
 of the scutellse. 
 
 Two specimens of this species were caught the 28th of 
 June. The largest is figured, of natural size, on Plate V. It 
 is 38J inches in length ; the tail measuring nearly 5 inches. 
 Abdominal scutellae 231 ; subcaudal ones, 52. 
 
 V. SCOTOPHIS, B. & G. 
 
 The scales in this genus are very slightly carinated on the 
 back, and perfectly smooth on the sides. Preanal scutella 
 bifid. One large anteorbital plate and two postorbitals. The 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 213 
 
 colors are brown or black, in quadrate blotches on the back 
 and on the sides, separated by lighter intervals; beneath 
 usually coarsely blotched with darker. In one species there 
 are dark stripes on a light ground. 
 
 6. SCOTOPHIS LAETUS, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PL VI. 
 
 Spec, char.— Similar to S. confinis, but postfrontals larger. 
 Vertical plate longer than broad. Dorsal rows 29. Abdomi- 
 nal scutellse 227. Subcaudals 72. Blotches fewer than in 
 S. confinis. 
 
 SYN.—Scotophis laetus, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
 1853, 78. 
 
 p ESC . — This species bears a close resemblance to S. con- 
 finis, and its characters may be best given by comparison 
 with the latter. It differs, therefore, in the greater number of 
 dorsal rows/29 instead of 25. The whole body and head are 
 much stouter. Exterior eight rows smooth, rest slightly cari- 
 nated. The vertical is broad before, rather acute behind. 
 A probably monstrous feature is seen in the union of the two 
 postfrontals, except for a short distance before, and in the 
 loral and postnasal coalescing into one trapezoidal plate. 
 Blotches less numerous. A broad vitta across the back part 
 of the postfrontals, passing backwards and downwards through 
 the eye, and terminating acutely on the posterior upper labial. 
 A blotch across the back part of the vertical, and extending 
 through the occipitals on each side to the nape._ The spots 
 are larger, longitudinal throughout, with occasional excep- 
 tions. 
 
 Its affinities to S. vulpinus are close. The vertical, how- 
 ever, is narrow, the eyes much larger, dorsal rows 29 instead 
 of 25. The blotches on the back are longitudinal, and fewer 
 in number. For a complete description of this species it will 
 be necessary to procure larger specimens. 
 
 The specimen figured on Plate VI is of natural size. The 
 only one caught of this species is 18 inches long. Length of 
 tail 3J inches. 
 
214 APPENDIX P. REPTILES, 
 
 VI. OPHIBOLUS, B. & G. 
 
 The body is rather thick, and the tail short. The scales 
 smooth and lustrous, and disposed in 21 or 23 rows, which 
 scarcely overlap. The preanal scutella is entire. A small 
 anteorbital plate and two postorbitals. Eyes very small. 
 
 The ground-colors are black, brown, or red, crossed by 
 lighter intervals, generally bordered by black. 
 
 Seven species, besides the two here described, have hith- 
 erto been found in North America. 
 
 7. Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. VII. 
 
 Spec. char. — Black, each scale above with a large circu- 
 lar or subcircular white or yellow spot in the centre. Some- 
 times only transverse lines of these spots across the back. 
 
 Syn. — Herpctodryas getulus, Schl. Ess. Phys. Serp. Part. 
 
 descr. II, 1837, 198. 
 Coronella Sayi, Holbr. (non Schl.) N. Amer. Herp. Ill, 
 
 1842, 99. PL xxii. 
 Coluber Sayi, Dekay, New York Fauna, Rept. 1842, 41. 
 Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G., Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 84. 
 
 Desc. — Body, as in most of the other species of the same 
 genus, very tense and rigid, with difficulty capable of being 
 extended after immersion in alcohol. Vertical plate triangu- 
 lar, wider than long; outer edge slightly convex, an angle 
 being faintly indicated at the junction of the superciliaries and 
 occipitals; shorter than the occipitals, which are short,-longer 
 than broad. Postfrontals large, broad ; prefontals smaller. 
 Rostral small, not projecting, slightly wedged between pre- 
 frontals. Eye very small, orbit about as high as the labial 
 below it; centre of the eye a little anterior to the middle of 
 the commissure, over the junction of the 3d and 4th labials. 
 One anteorbital, vertically quadrate; loral half its height, 
 square. Upper labials 7, increasing to the penultimate. 
 Lower labials 9; 4th and 5th largest. 
 
 Scales nearly as high as long, hexagonal, truncated at each 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 215 
 
 end. Dorsal rows 21, exterior rather larger, and diminishing 
 almost imperceptibly to the back, although all the scales in a 
 single oblique row are of very nearly the same shape and 
 size. 
 
 The scales on the back and sides are lustrous black, each 
 one with a central elliptical or subcircular spot of ivory-white, 
 which on the sides occupy nearly the whole of the scale, but 
 are smaller towards the back, where they involve one-half to 
 one-third of the length. Beneath yellowish white, with broad 
 distinct blotches of black, more numerous posteriorly. Skin 
 between the scales brown. The plates on the top and sides 
 of the head have each a yellowish blotch; the labials are 
 yellow, with black at their junction. 
 
 Other specimens agree except in having bright yellow in- 
 stead of white as described ; the spots, too, are rather smaller, 
 and manifest a slight tendency to aggregation on adjacent 
 scales so as to form transverse bands. This is seen more 
 decidedly where the back is crossed by about 70 short dotted 
 yellow lines; the 56th opposite the anus. The scales be- 
 tween have very obsolete spots of lighter, scarcely discernible. 
 The sides are yellow, with black spots corresponding to the 
 dorsal lines; indeed, there may be indistinctly discerned two 
 or three lateral series of alternating blotches. 
 
 In larger specimens from the West, this tendency in the 
 spots to aggregation is still more distinct. The back is 
 crossed by these dotted lines of the number and relation indi- 
 cated, at intervals of four or five scales; the spots on the 
 intervening space being obsolete. These lines bifurcate at 
 about the 9th outer row, the branches connecting with those 
 contiguous, so as to form hexagons ; and these extending to- 
 wards the abdomen again, decussate on about the third outer 
 row, thus enclosing two series of square, dark spots on each 
 side. These lateral markings are, however, not very dis- 
 cernible, owing to the confusion produced by the greater 
 number of yellow spots. On the edge of the abdomen are 
 dark blotches, one opposite each dorsal dark space, the cen- 
 tres of the scutellae being likewise blotched, but so as rather 
 to alternate with those just mentioned. 
 
 The specimen represented on Plate VII was caught the 16th 
 of May, between Cache creek and Red river. Total length 
 33^ inches; tail 3f inches; abdominal scutellae 224; subcau- 
 dals 49. 
 
216 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 8. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. VIII. 
 
 Spec. char. — Muzzle more convex and acute than in O. 
 dsjliatus. Body red, encircled by about 25 pairs of broad 
 black rings enclosing a white ring: the white mottled with 
 black on the sides. Black rings broader than in O. doliatus. 
 Upper part of head entirely black. 
 
 Syn. — Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
 1853, 90. 
 
 Desc. — Ground color deep-red, encircled by 25 pairs of 
 black rings, the 21st opposite the anas, each pair enclosing a 
 third ring of white, the latter becoming yellowish by immer- 
 sion in alcohol. The black rings are conspicuously broader 
 above, the three crossing eight scales on the vertebral row 
 anteriorly, and towards the anus about five. Anteriorly the 
 intervals between successive pairs consist of about five scales, 
 posteriorly only of two or three, thus diminishing considera- 
 bly. The black rings contract as they descend, those of each 
 pair receding slightly from each other, so as to cause the 
 yellow portion to expand about one scale. The black rings 
 are contiguous on the abdomen, those of contiguous pairs (not 
 of the same pair) sometimes with their intervening spaces 
 black. The scales in the white rings are always more or less 
 mottled with black, especially along the sides of the body, 
 this mottling being very rarely observable on the red portion. 
 The anterior black ring of the first pair is extended so as to 
 cover the whole head above, except the very tip ; the white 
 ring behind it involves the extreme tip of the occipitals. 
 
 A large specimen is much duskier in its colors. The black 
 rings extend on the back so that the contiguous rings of adja- 
 cent pairs run into each other. There are 28 pairs of rings, 
 the 25th opposite the anus. 
 
 Dorsal row of scales, 2] ; abdominal scutellge, 198 ; sub- 
 caudal ones, 45. Total length, 20 inches ; length of tail, 2f 
 inches. Plate VIII represents the largest of two specimens, 
 caught June 14, near Sweetwater creek. 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 217 
 
 VII. MASTICOPHIS, B. & G. 
 
 The prominent feature of this genus consists in a very slen- 
 der and elongated tail, forming one-third or one-fourth of the 
 length. It bears a close relationship to the black snakes, 
 (Bascanion,) from which it differs chiefly in the structure of 
 the plates on the upper jaw. The scales are smooth and dis- 
 posed in fifteen or seventeen dorsal rows. The preanal scu- 
 tella is divided. The vertical plate is long and narrow. There 
 are two anteorbitals and two postorbitals, these resting against 
 the fifth labial. 
 
 9. Masticophis flavigularis, B. &. G. 
 
 Spec, char.— Light dull yellow, tinged with brown above* 
 Beneath two longitudinal series of blotches distinct anteriorly. 
 In alcohol, and especially when the epidermis is removed, the 
 whole animal appears of a soiled white. 
 
 Syn. — Fsammoyhis flavigularis, Hallow., Proc. Acad. Nat. 
 
 Sc. Philad. VI, 1852, 178. 
 Masticophis flavigularis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
 
 1853, 99. 
 
 Desc. — Size very large. Vertical plate broad before, taper- 
 ing to the middle, where it is about half as wide as anteriorly, 
 thence it runs nearly parallel. Vertical rather shorter than 
 occipitals. Greatest breadth across superciliaries less than 
 half the length of the portion covered by plates. Occipitals 
 moderate. Centre of eye considerably anterior to the cen- 
 tre of commissure, over the junction of the 4th and 5th labials. 
 Labials 8 above, increasing in size to the 5th, which is elon- 
 gated vertically, the 7th elongate and largest. The 5th forms 
 part of the inferior and posterior wall of the orbit, as in all the 
 species of the genus, resting above against the lower postor- 
 bital, with which the 6th labial is not in contact. Dorsal 
 scales broader than in Bascanion constrictor, their sides per- 
 fectly straight, slightly truncate, with the corners rounded. 
 Exterior row largest, rest gradually diminishing. Scales on 
 the tail widely truncate. 
 
 The general color, both above and below, may be described 
 as a dull straw-yellow, tinged with light olivaceous brown 
 
218 APPENDIX F. REPTIDES. 
 
 above. This latter tint exists in the form of a shading on the 
 centres and towards the tips of the scales, leaving the bases 
 yellowish. The proportion of brown increases towards the 
 back, and in older specimens sometimes suppresses the yel- 
 low. In all instances a darker shade is seen towards the tip 
 of each scale. The skin between the scales is yellowish. 
 The scutellas anteriorly exhibit each two rather large brown- 
 ish blotches, one on each side of the median line, constituting 
 two rows on the abdomen, which fade out posteriorly. Some- 
 times the series are not discernible, the blotches spreading so 
 as to constitute a dark shade to the margins and exterior edges 
 of the scutellas. The posterior portions of the plates under 
 and on the sides of the head are similarly blotched ; the same 
 tendency being observable on the posterior edges of the plates 
 on the top of the head, by the deeper shade of the olivaceous 
 brown there prevalent. Anteorbitals yellow. One specimen 
 was procured 57£ inches long. Abdominal scutellae 191x2. 
 The tip of the tail is missing. 
 
 In smaller specimens the blotching beneath is rather more 
 decided. In addition to the colors described, the back is 
 crossed by indistinct bars of darker, eight or nine scales wide 
 and half a scale long. This color is also seen on the skin 
 between the scales under the dark bars, where the bases of 
 the scales themselves are darker, instead of light. There is 
 a tendency towards stripes on the side : first one of light 
 brown, on the outer edge of the abdomen; then an interrupted 
 yellow one at the junction of the abdominal scutellas and outer 
 scales ; then brown again through the centres of the rows. 
 This, however, is not very conspicuous. Sometimes the dark 
 shades on the sides are tinged with reddish. The obsolete 
 transverse bars are seen at intervals of one or two scales. 
 
 This species may prove to be the Coluber testaceus of Say. 
 A specimen from Fort Webster, or the Copper Mines, col- 
 lected by the U. S. and Mexican Boundary Commission, 
 shows the stripes on the sides much more distinctly, running 
 through all the dorsal rows anteriorly, and crossed by the in- 
 distinct bars already referred to. The contrast between the 
 dark chesnut brown spots on each side, and its deeper centre, 
 with the clear yellow of the edges, is very distinct. Beneath 
 yellow, with the blotches reduced to mere dull spots. 
 
APPETDIX F. REPTILES. 219 
 
 VIII. LEPTOPHIS, Bell 
 
 The body is elongated and very slender, the tail forming 
 more than the third of the entire length. The scales are dis- 
 posed in 17 dorsal rows and keeled, except the two outer 
 rows, which are smooth. The nostril is situated in the mid- 
 dle of a single plate. The eyes are large. The preanal 
 scutella is bifid or divided. The color uniformly green. 
 
 10. Leptophis majalis, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. IX. 
 
 Spec. char. — Reddish green above, yellowish white be- 
 neath. Body proportionally stouter and tail shorter than 
 in L. cestivus. Snout and whole head, including vertical, 
 longer than in latter species. Dorsal scales in 17 rows. 
 
 Syn. — Leptophis majalis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
 1853, 107. 
 
 Desc. — Head more pointed, broader on the temporal re- 
 gion, and more tapering on the snout than in L. astivus. Ver- 
 tical plate subhexagonal, broader, and postfrontals propor- 
 tionally larger in comparison with the prefrontals, than in L, 
 astivus. Occipitals maintaining more their width posteriorly, 
 obtuse-angled behind. Nasal more elongated ; loral smaller, 
 and longer than high. Two large temporal shields and a few 
 small ones behind. Scales strongly carinated, except the 
 outer row, which is perfectly smooth, and the second row, 
 which is but slightly carinated. The scales of both of these 
 rows are broader than the rest. 
 
 Total length, 28£ inches; length of tail, 9| inches. Abdo- 
 minal scutella?, 163x1; subcaudal, 111. The specimen 
 figured on Plate IX was caught on the 13th of July at the 
 head of Cache creek, near old Wichita village. 
 
 LIZARDS. 
 
 Six species of saurians, or lizards, belonging to six different 
 genera, were collected during the exploration of Red river. 
 
220 
 
 APPENDIX P. REPTILES. 
 
 One of them has proved to be new to science ; two were re- 
 cently described for the first time, whilst the three others have 
 been long known to herpetologists. 
 
 I. PHRYNOSOMA, Wiegm. 
 
 This genus, including the so-called horned toads or horned 
 frogs, more properly horned lizards, is recognisable by a de- 
 pressed, broad, and subelliptical body, covered above with 
 irregular scales, the majority very small, others quite large, 
 pyramidal, raised above the surface of the skin, and scattered 
 all over the back, sides, and tail. The head is subtriangular 
 and provided with powerful spines or horns, giving to it 
 rather a formidable appearance, although all the species of 
 this genus are perfectly inoffensive. There are external 
 auditive appertures as in most of the lizard tribe. 
 
 In a monograph of the genus appended to Stansbury's Ex- 
 ploration of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, six 
 species are described as indigenous to North America ; ano- 
 ther has since been added to the list. The single species col- 
 lected is the most abundant of the genus. 
 
 1. Phrynosoma cornutum, Gray. 
 
 Spec. char. — Nostrils situated within the internal margin 
 of the superciliary ridge ; occipital and temporal spines longer 
 and more acute than in Ph. orbicular e ; a double row of pyra- 
 midal scales on the sides of the abdomen ; scales on the in- 
 ferior surface of the head small and slightly keeled, of a general 
 uniformity, except one row on each side, somewhat larger, 
 pyramidal, acute, slightly raised, and directed outwards and 
 backwards ; a series of very large inframaxillary plates, sharp 
 on their outer edge, the posterior one of which is transformed 
 into a spine. The plates lining the margin of the jaws are 
 not prominent. The scales of the belly are proportionally 
 small, subquadrangular, keeled, and posteriorly very acute i 
 femoral pores undeveloped, or rudimentary in the female 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 221 
 
 Syn. — Phrynosoma, cornutum, Gray, Syn. Rept. in Griff. Anim. 
 Kingd. IX, 1831, 45. Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 87. 
 PL xi. — Girard in Stansbury's Expl. Val. Great Salt Lake, 
 1852, 360. PI. viii, fig, 1—6. 
 
 Agama cornuta, Harl. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 141. Plate, 
 figs. 1 and 2. 
 
 Phrynosoma Harlani, Wiegm. Herp. Mex. 1834, 54. — Dum. 
 and Bibr. Erp. gen. IV, 1837, 314. 
 
 Obs. — The color of this species has been well described 
 by Dr. Holbrook. We may add that the ground-color above 
 in some individuals is of a variable shade of ferruginous red — 
 a tint sometimes seen on the inferior surface of the body. The 
 belly is either unicolor, or else spotted as in P. orbiculare. Nu- 
 merous specimens of this species were collected during the 
 exploration of Red river; some on the prairie between Camps 
 2 and 3 ; others between Camps 6 and 7, and at Camp 7 
 also , others still on the south fork of Red river, and several 
 other localities. 
 
 II. CROTAPHYTUS, Holbr. 
 
 Noticed for the first time during Major Long's expedition. 
 The type of this genus was briefly described by Say in the 
 second volume of Long's Narrative, and there called Agama 
 collaris, in allusion to the very striking feature of bearing a 
 double black sub-crescentic band on the sides of the neck. 
 The genus Crotaphytus was first established by Dr. Holbrook, 
 and is characterized by the presence of small, polygonal plates 
 on the whole surface of the head. The odd occipital plate 
 itself is inconspicuous; the auditive apertures are very broad- 
 ly open. Teeth are found on the jaws and palate. There is 
 a fold of the skin under the throat ; the head is large and sub- 
 triangular ; the body covered with minute scales ; and the tail 
 very long and tapering. Femoral pores present. 
 
 This genus now includes four North American species ; three 
 we have lately described under the names of C. Wislizenii, 
 
4 
 222 APPENDIX F.— REPTILES. 
 
 from Ne*v Mexico, C. Gambelii, from California, and C. dor- 
 salis, from the desert of Colorado; the fourth is the following: 
 
 2. Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. 
 
 Spec. char. — Tail conical, very long and tapering ; head 
 large, sub-triangular, rounded at the snout ; two subcrescentic 
 black bars, margined with white on each side of the neck ; the 
 largest extends from the origin of ijie fore-legs to near the 
 dorsal line ; the second of these black bars is smaller, and sit- 
 uated between the latter and the head. 
 
 Syn. — Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 
 79. PL x. 
 
 Agama collaris, Say, in Long's Exp. Rocky Mts. II, 1823, 
 252.— Had. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 142. 
 
 Obs. — The specimens on hand exhibit several varieties of 
 coloration worthy of being noticed : thus two specimens from 
 Gypsum Bluffs, on Red river — a rocky locality present a 
 green ground-color above, with large blue patches and bright 
 yellow spots ; underneath light-green, almost uniform, except 
 under the head, which is deeper and provided with blue, irre- 
 gularly enlongated spots ; another specimen from the same 
 locality has brown as the predominating tint. Light-brown 
 stripes are seen on the legs and tail ; similar spots on the body 
 and head ; four rows of red spots on the back ; belly light- 
 brown ; light reddish-brown under the tail and feet. 
 
 Specimens from the head of the south fork of Red river have 
 either a bluish-gray back, with white spots, a bluish-white 
 belly, and the interior surface of fore-legs reddish, or else the 
 back is 3^ellow and green. 
 
 The above memoranda, on the coloration, were taken on 
 the spot by Capt. Marcy. The general distribution of color 
 appears to indicate sexual differences ; thus all the specimens 
 before us in which the spots have a tendency to arrange them- 
 selves in transverse bands, or even where transverse narrow 
 bands take the place of the spots, have proved to be females. 
 The ground-color, however, varies in both sexes. 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 223 
 
 III. HOLBROOKIA, Girard. 
 
 The genus Holbroolcia bears a striking resemblance to the 
 one just described ; it has the same general form, the same 
 sub-triangular head, covered with small polygonal plates, a 
 fold under the throat, small scales on the back, and femoral 
 pores. The tail is perhaps smaller in proportion to the size 
 of the body. The absence of an external auditive aperture 
 will, however, at once characterize it generic ally from all its 
 allies. The absence of teeth on the palatine bones is another 
 organic character by which the genus HolbrooMa can be dis- 
 tinguished from Crotaphytus. From Homalosaurus it differs 
 only by the absence of an external auditive aperture. 
 
 The species upon which the genus was originally based is 
 the one collected by the expedition. 
 
 Three other species were found in Texas, and described 
 by us under the names of H. ajjinis, propinqua, and texana, (see 
 Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadel- 
 phia, August, 1852.) 
 
 3. Holbrookia maculata, Girard. 
 
 Spec. char. — Above light-brown, with two dorsal series 
 of irregularly crescent-shaped black spots convex posteriorly, 
 and provided with an olivaceous margin ; flanks with small 
 crowded yellowish or reddish spots ; two, occasionally three, 
 deep-bluish black spots on the sides of the abdomen ; be- 
 neath unicolor, either of a soiled white or yellow tint; some- 
 times irregular bluish vittae under the head. 
 
 Syn. — Holbroolcia maculata, Girard, Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. 
 ofSc. IV, (1850,) 1851,210; and in Stansbury's Expl. 
 Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 342. Plate vi, fig. 1—3. 
 
 Obs. — A full description, as well as a figure of this species, 
 may be found in the Report of Captain Howard Stansbury on 
 the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah; rendering it un- 
 necessary to reproduce either here. 
 
224 APPENDIX F. — REPTILES. 
 
 Numerous specimens were collected on the Canadian river 
 and surrounding localities. 
 
 IV. SCELOPORUS, Wiegm. 
 
 The genus has the general appearance of Holbrookia, but 
 is provided with large auditive apertures, large imbricated 
 and carinated scales on the back in most instances ; and 
 smooth scales on the belly. The subguttural fold of the 
 former, however, is not to be seen here and on the surface of 
 the head ; the plates, though small, are larger, especially the 
 occipital. There are no teeth on the palate. 
 
 Most of the species of this genus are Mexican ; one is com- 
 mon in the United States, and known as the brown or fence 
 lizard. A second species was discovered by Captain Stans- 
 bury in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Another species 
 inhabits the western States, and a fourth is peculiar to Oregon. 
 
 4. SCELOPORUS CONSOBRINUS, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. X, Figs. 5-12. 
 
 Spec. char. — Ground color above brownish, with a series 
 of small black spots, eight or ten in number, on each side of 
 the dorsal line. A yellowish stripe outside of the spots, and 
 a black band beneath the stripe. A greenish area between 
 the black band above and the elongated blue patch on the 
 sides of the abdomen. Beneath, greenish blue. 
 
 Desc. — This species bears a close relationship to S. graci- 
 osus, from the valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, in the 
 description of which the remarkably large size of the dorsal 
 scales was mentioned as constituting one of its most distin- 
 guishing features, when compared to S. scalaris. In the 
 present species the dorsal scales are proportionally still larger 
 than in S. graciosus. Its body and head are also more slender 
 and narrower. The tail is more tapering and elongated, and 
 constitutes almost three-fifths of the total length. In colora- 
 tion the differences between the two species are very striking. 
 
 The head is subelliptical, depressed, declive towards the 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 225 
 
 snout, which is rather pointed. The superciliary region is 
 but slightly raised above the plane of the vertex. The rostral 
 plate is subtriangular, very low, and elongated transversely. 
 The nostrils are almost circular, situated in the middle of a 
 small plate, separated from the rostral by two small interven- 
 ing ones. There are ten or twelve internasal and very small 
 plates, and nine somewhat larger frontals, the middle one the 
 largest. There are two verticals, (or frontals,) the anterior one 
 the largest. The occipital is large and pentagonal, surrounded 
 by four or six smaller plates, two anterior of medium size, 
 contiguous to the postvertical, two lateral, larger and triangu- 
 lar, exteriorly to which two smaller ones may be observed. 
 There are three or four subhexagonal, transversely elongated, 
 plates on the superciliary region, surrounded internally by 
 one row and externally by two rows of minute plates. The 
 superciliary edge is formed by five sharp and imbricated thin 
 plates; it is continued in the shape of a ridge to the nostril by 
 means of two sharply-keeled plates. The suborbitals are two 
 in number, the posterior one much the longest. There is a 
 small loral. 
 
 The plates which line the jaws are subquadrangular, very 
 narrow and elongated, four above and five below, the latter 
 considerably larger. Above the series of plates of the upper 
 jaw, and between the suborbitals, two series of small and ir- 
 regular plates may be observed. Four or five inframaxiliary 
 plates constitute a series on each side of the lower surface of 
 the head, joined anteriorly by the subpentagonal symphysal 
 plate. Between the inframaxiliary series and the series lining 
 the lower jaw exists a series of four or five elongated and 
 small plates. 
 
 The auditive aperture, which is proportionally large, is oval, 
 and almost vertical in its longest diameter. At its anterior 
 margin may be seen two or three scales, larger and more 
 pointed than those on the temporal region. Behind the audi- 
 tive aperture, and situated obliquely on the neck, is a slight 
 fold of the skin. 
 
 The neck is somewhat contracted, the body slender and 
 depressed, with the back, however, slightly arched, and the 
 belly flat. The tail, as already mentioned, is quite long and 
 slender, depressed at its base, and hence conical towards the 
 tip. 
 
 The fore-legs, when stretched backwards along the sides, 
 extend nearly to the groin, while the hind-legs, when brought 
 forward, reach almost to the ear. 
 15 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 The scales are imbricated and keeled on the back and 
 sides. Their general shape is that of a lozenge, terminated 
 posteriorly by an acute spine. There are ten longitudinal 
 rows along the back, with five on each side, which are some- 
 what oblique, and smaller. Underneath, the scales are- 
 smooth, posteriorly tricuspid on the belly, whilst under the 
 head and throat they have but two posterior spines. The 
 scales below as well as above the fore-legs are keeled. 
 Those on the upper part of the hind-legs are also keeled, 
 whilst on the thighs they are smooth. The fingers and toes 
 are surrounded with carinated scales to their very tips. 
 
 The femoral pores, thirteen or fourteen in number on each 
 side, are conspicuous and situated in the middle of one single 
 small plate. 
 
 The black spots in the series along the back are compara- 
 tively small, and separated from each other by a space greater 
 than their diameters. The yellow stripe extends from the 
 origin of the neck to beyond the anus, the black from above 
 the shoulder to the groin. The blue patch is elongated and 
 narrow, terminated posteriorly by a black stripe which runs 
 for a little distance along the thigh. There is an elongated 
 black spot on the shoulder. 
 
 One specimen was collected on the 6th of June. 
 
 Plate X, fig. 5, represents the species in profile and of the 
 natural size. 
 
 Fig. 6. The side of the head enlarged, to show more dis- 
 tinctly the structure of its plates. 
 
 Fig. 7. Head from above, enlarged in the same proportion 
 as fig. 6 
 
 Fig. 8. Head from below, enlarged. 
 
 Fig. 9. The right arm and fingers, seen from below. 
 
 Fig. 10. The right leg and toes, seen from below. 
 
 Fig. 11. Dorsal scales, enlarged four times. 
 
 Fig. 12. Scales from the belly, slightly enlarged. 
 
 V. CNEMIDOPHORUS, WagL 
 
 This genus is characterized by a bifid tongue ; a double- 
 transverse fold of skin under the throat ; teeth on the palate ; 
 maxillary teeth compressed, the posterior one tricuspid ; 
 femoral pores ; broad plates under the thighs ; fingers not 
 carinated underneath ; and a subcylindrical, very long and 
 
00*7 
 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. *<> ' 
 
 tapering tail. The body above is covered with minutely 
 crowded scales ; whilst on the belly there are eight longitudi- 
 nal rows of subquadrangular, transversely elongated plates, 
 or scutelke. On the tail the scales are quite large and very 
 conspicuous, strongly carinated and constituting circular rows 
 
 or whorls. 
 
 The explorations of the last few years in Texas and New 
 Mexico have brought to light several other species of the 
 genus Cnemidophorus, all provided with eight longitudinal 
 rows of abdominal scutellae. These are C. gracilis, from the 
 desert of the Colorado ; C. perplexus, from the upper valley of 
 the Rio Grande ; C. gularis, C. Grahamii, and C. marmoraius, 
 from different localities in Texas. 
 
 The discovery of C. gularis in Arkansas is an interesting 
 fact in regard to its geographical distribution 
 
 5. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PL X, fig. 1—4. 
 
 Spec. char. — Ground color brownish, with six longitudinal 
 stripes, green or yellow ; beneath yellowish white, unicoior. 
 Scales' on the subguttural fold quite large and conspicuous in 
 proportion to those in other species. 
 
 &YX.—Cnemidophoi-us gularis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. 
 Sci., PhilacL vi, 1852, 128. 
 
 tj esc . — This species is very closely allied to C. sexlineaitis, 
 having, like the latter, six longitudinal stripes, three on each 
 side of the body, running from head to some distance along 
 the tail. It .has, also, the same general form ; but on a close 
 comparison it will soon be observed that the body is propor- 
 tionally shorter, the limbs more developed, whilst the scales 
 on the back appear to be actually larger. The head is pro- 
 portionally smaller and narrower. But the most striking or- 
 ganic character consists in the presence of somewhat large 
 and conspicuous scales on the margin of the subguttural fold 
 of the skin. The following indications of color are derived 
 from the notes of the expedition : The upper surface of the 
 head is reddish brown ; three longitudinal yellow or greenish 
 
228 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 stripes extending from the head to the origin of the tail ; the 
 middle stripe on each side may be followed on the tail to a 
 considerable distance. The dorsal space between the two 
 uppermost stripes on each side is brown, or reddish brown, 
 like the head above. The space between the uppermost and 
 middle stripes is of a deep black, and extends from the upper 
 angle of the orbit down to a certain distance along the tail. 
 The space between the middle and lower stripes, and between 
 the latter and the abdominal scutellee, is green or greenish 
 brown. The legs are brownish red, and the belly white or 
 bluish white. The tail underneath is yellowish red ; above, 
 brownish, or reddish brown. 
 
 Specimens were collected on the 5th and 6th of June. 
 
 Plate X, fig. 1, represents Cnemidophorus gularis of natural 
 size. 
 
 Fig. 2. Head seen from above, to exhibit the plates. 
 
 Fig. 3 shows the scales on the subguttural fold and the hand 
 from beneath, as well as the submaxillary plates. 
 
 Fig 4 represents the femoral pores, the preanal plates, and 
 also the plates at the inferior surface of the hind legs, and the 
 lower surface of the feet. 
 
 VI. LYGOSOMA, Gray. 
 
 This genus includes small scincoid lizards, the nostrils of 
 which open in one single plate, the nasal. The supranasals 
 are wanting. The palate is without teeth, and provided with 
 a triangular notch situated far back. The scales, broader than 
 long, are all smooth. a 
 
 All the species of Lygosoma belong to the Old World except 
 the one here mentioned. 
 
 6. Lygosoma lateralis, Duni. and B. 
 
 Spec. char. — Upper part of head and bod} r chestnut-brown ; 
 a black lateral band extending from the snout across the eye 
 to a considerable distance along the tail. Flanks grayish- 
 brown, with longitudinal indistinct, darker, interrupted vittae, 
 Abdomen yellowish, and tail beneath bluish; circumference 
 of scales mottled with gray. Tail longer than the body. 
 Limbs very small. 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 229 
 
 Syn. — Scincus lateralis, Say, in Long's Exp. Rock. Mts. II, 
 1823, 324.— Harl. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc, V, 1827, 221, 
 and VI, 1829, 12.— Holbr. N. Amer. Herp., first ed., I, 
 1836, 71. PI. viii. 
 
 Scincus unicolor, Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad., V, i, 
 1825, 156. 
 
 Tiliqua lateralis, Gray, Syn. Rept., in Griff. Anim. Kingd., 
 Cuv. IX, 1831, 70. 
 
 Lygosoma lateralis, Dum. and B., Erp. gen. V, 1839, 719. 
 Holb. N. Amer. Herp, second ed., II, 1842, 133. PL xix. 
 
 This small and graceful species appears to be spread over 
 a large portion of the United States. It is always met with 
 running on the surface of the ground in forests, among dead 
 leaves, never ascending either trees or shrubs like many other 
 lizards. 
 
 The body is sub-quadrangular, the head continuous with it, 
 and, like it, flattened above. The tail is sub-circular, tapering 
 into a point. The plates of the head correspond with the de- 
 scriptions w r hich we have before us, except that the fronto- 
 nasals are not contiguous, but separated by a small odd plate 
 directly in advance of the vertical, (sometimes called frontal.) 
 But this peculiarity of structure is not indicative of any spe- 
 cific difference. 
 
 The auditive apertures are large, circular, and their margin 
 simple. The fore-legs, when extended forward, reach the eye. 
 The hind-legs are a little longer and stouter than the fore-legs. 
 The scales are perfectly smooth, uniform above and below, 
 and disposed in thirty longitudinal rows around the body. 
 The two middle preanal scutellas considerably larger. 
 
 One specimen was procured near the mouth of Cache 
 creek on the 16th of May. 
 
 BATRACHIANS. 
 
 Of this order of reptiles only two species were procured — 
 a toad and a frog. 
 
 1. Bufo cognatus, Say. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XL 
 
 Spec. char. — Greenish brown above, with a lighter yel- 
 lowish dorsal line. Patches of blackish-brown, scattered 
 
230 
 
 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 over the sides and legs. Beneath unieolor of a dingy yellow. 
 Head short, groove on its upper surface, not extending to the 
 anterior rim of the eye. 
 
 Syn. — Bufo cognatus, Say, in Long's Exp. to Rock. Mts. II, 
 1823, 190. 
 
 Obs. — It is not without hesitation that we have referred the 
 present species to Bufo cognatus ; the description of Say as 
 cited is exceedingly brief, applying almost equally well to 
 several allied species. The colors of our specimen varv 
 considerably from the B. cognatus as described by Say ; but 
 the characters of the groove of the crown agree better. The 
 mark of "head with a groove which hardly extends anteriorly 
 to the line of the anterior canthus of the eye," although not 
 strictly in accordance with our species, may, with some al- 
 lowance, be made to answer to it. It is much to be regretted 
 that the original specimen of Say was destroyed in the con- 
 flagration of the Philadelphia Museum, and thus all hopes of 
 identification are lost. If, however, further explorations in 
 Arkansas should yield many additional specimens, all differing 
 as much as the present from Say's description, it will become 
 necessary to assign a new name to it, especially if the true B» 
 cognatus be at the same time detected. 
 
 DEScpaPTioN. — The head is very short, the snout obtuse 
 and truncate, with the nostrils subterminal. Upper service of 
 head grooved ; groove subelliptical and short, not extending 
 anteriorly to the anterior rim of the eye (fig 2.) The super- 
 ciliary ridges thicken from before backwards, extending to 
 the tympanum in passing obliquely behind the eyes, and in 
 contact also with the parotid glands, which are subovoidal 
 and of medium size. Tympanum rather small, subelliptical ; 
 its longest diameter almost vertical. The fore and hind legs 
 are well proportioned to the size of the body. The under 
 surface of the hand is provided with small crowded tubercles, 
 a more conspicuous and a larger one at the articulations of 
 the fingers ; the fingers themselves are depressed or flattened. 
 A larger disc-like knob is observed on the middle and at the 
 base of the hand (fig 3.) 
 
 The toes (fig. 4) are but slightly webbed, and, like the fin- 
 gers, depressed. The fourth is conspicuously the longest, and 
 the third a little longer than the filth. The under surface of 
 the feet (fig. 5) is covered with smaller tubercles than those 
 of the hands. A large spade-like process exists at the base 
 of the first or inner toe, exteriorly to which, and at the base 
 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 231 
 
 still of the metatarsus, is a small knob-like tubercle. The 
 body is thickly covered with papilla?, with some large ones 
 more conspicuous along the sides of the back ; on the flanks 
 they are smaller, similar to those of the intervening spaces on 
 the back; on the abdomen the papilla? are smaller still; upper 
 part of hands and feet minutely granulated. The snout alone 
 is smooth. 
 
 The dark patches scattered over the upper part of the ani- 
 mal are margined with a light yellowish line. Sinuating yel- 
 lowish lines may be observed on the sides of the belly, or 
 flanks and legs. A rather large spot is seen beneath the eye, 
 and another in advance and beneath the tjanpanum near the 
 angle of the mouth. 
 
 One specimen procured near the Water-hole between Camps 
 6 and 7. 
 
 Plate XI, fig. 1, represents Bufo cognatus of natural size. 
 
 Fig. 2. The head from above. 
 
 Fig. 3. Left hand seen from below. 
 
 Fig. 4. Right foot from above. 
 
 Fig. 5. Right foot from below. 
 
 2. Rana pipiens, Latr. — Bullfrog. 
 
 Spec. char. — Toes webbed to their extremity, fourth toe 
 one-fourth longer than the third and fifth. An elongated tuber- 
 cle at the base of the first toe ; sub-articular tubercles of fin- 
 gers and toes but slightly developed. Vomerine teeth on two 
 rounded and separated elevations situated between the inter- 
 nal nostrils. Diameter of tympanum (in the specimen before 
 us) greater than the diameter of the eye. 
 
 Syn. — Rana pipie7is, Latr. Hist. Nat. Rept. II, 1802, 153. 
 Harl. Amer. Jour. Sc. X, 62. Med. & Phys. Res., 1835, 
 101 ; and Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. V, 1827, 335. 
 Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. IV, 1842, 77. PI. xviii. 
 
 Rana Mugiens, Merr. Tent. Syst. Amph. 1820, 175. Dum. 
 & B. Erp. gen. VIII, 1841, 370. 
 
 The bullfrog is quite a common animal in the United States, 
 though its northern, western, and southern limits are not yet 
 accurately known. A large specimen was found in a cold 
 spring near the head of the south fork of Cache creek, in the 
 Witchita mountains. The upper parts of body and limbs are 
 covered with warty eminences, more crowded on the body. 
 
232 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 
 
 These warts are perfectly smooth, like the skin itself. The 
 ground-color is greenish brown above, with crowded deep 
 brown or blackish spots. Beneath, dull yellow, with clouded 
 bluish patches. The lower surface of the feet has the same 
 marmorated appearance as the back. The jaws and snout 
 are greenish brown, and perfectly smooth. 
 
 The specimen before us is remarkable for the size of its 
 tympanum, which is much larger than the eye. 
 
APPENDIX F. FISHES. 
 
 233 
 
 FISHES. 
 
 BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD, 
 
 1. POMOTIS LONGULUS, B. & G. 
 Zoologi, PL XII. 
 
 Spec char. — -General form elongated. Opercular flap 
 rather small and entirely black. Twenty-seven to twenty- 
 nine rows of scales across the line of greatest depth of body? 
 and about thirteen rows on the tail. Fifty-two scales in the 
 lateral line. 
 
 Syn. — Pomotis Imgulus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc 
 Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 
 
 Description. — The body is very much compressed, and 
 more elongated than usual in the genus Pomotis — so much so, 
 indeed, as to resemble Grystes even more than Centrarchu^ 
 The head constitutes a little less than the third of the total 
 length, including the caudal fin ; it is subcorneal, with a little 
 depression upon the middle of the skull. The eyes are large 
 and circular, and their diameter is contained five times in the 
 length of the head, measured from the tip of the snout to the 
 extremity of the opercular flap. The posterior extremity of 
 the maxillary reaches a point opposite the middle of the pupih 
 The cheeks are densely covered with small and imbricated 
 scales. The largest scales are on the opercular apparatus, 
 (the preopercular excepted,) where they are also imbricated. 
 The opercular is subtriangular ; its upper angles rounded, and 
 the posterior one terminated by a membranous and rather 
 small flap, entirely black. The subopercular extends along 
 the interior edge of the opercular, tapering slightly upwards. 
 The interopercular forms a regular curve immediately be- 
 neath the preopercular, and is covered with one row of scales, 
 there being a double row of these upon the subopercular. 
 
 The dorsal fin is rather low, especially its spiny portion. 
 Its anterior margin is exactly opposite to the opercular flap. 
 
234 APPENDIX F.— FISHES. 
 
 There are ten spiny rays and nine soft ones, the last being 
 double and the shortest. The first, second, third, fourth, fifth, 
 and sixth rays increase gradually in length in the order enu- 
 merated ; the eighth is equal to the sixth ; the ninth is the 
 longest. They all (the soft rays) bifurcate from their middle, 
 and then again subdivide from four-fifths of their length to the 
 tip. The caudal fin is subcrescentic posteriorly; its angles 
 are rounded; its length contained five times and a half in that 
 of the body and head together. The central rays bifurcate 
 three times upon their length. There are seventeen rays in 
 all, with a few rudimentary ones. The anal is well devel- 
 oped ; its three anterior spiny rays are the shortest, and not 
 very conspicuous. The eight remaining ones are soft and 
 articulated; similar in structure to those of the dorsal fin. 
 The ventrals are inserted behind the base of the pectorals; 
 their tip, when bent backwards, reaching the anus, which is 
 situated a quarter of an inch in advance of the anterior mar- 
 gin of the anal fin. This is subtriangular, posteriorly sub- 
 truncated, composed of an anterior spiny ray, and five soft 
 and articulated ones, which bifurcate twice. The pectoral 
 extends backwards as far as the ventrals. Its rays, fifteen in 
 number, are all soft and very slender, bifurcating twice. Only 
 thirteen of these rays are well developed. The formula of 
 the fins is as follows : 
 
 D X. 9 + 3 ; A III. 8; C 2. I. 8. 7. I. 1; V I. 5; P 15. 
 
 The scales are of medium size, longer than high, truncated 
 anteriorly, rounded posteriorly, and finely denticulated, as seen 
 in fig. 4. The lateral line does not extend beyond the inser- 
 tion of the rays of the caudal, the base of which is covered 
 c with scales irregularly disposed. The smallest scales are 
 observed under the head, upon the throat; the largest on the 
 peduncle of the tail. 
 
 The color is not sufficiently preserved in the single speci- 
 men collected to admit of description. Traces of irregular 
 lines are, however, visible upon the cheeks and opercular ap- 
 paratus. 
 
 Found in Otter creek, Arkansas. 
 
 Plate XII, fig. 1. PomoUts longulus, in profile, and of the 
 size of life. 
 
 Fig. 2. A dorsal scale taken on the middle of the back, 
 above the lateral line. 
 
 Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line, exhibiting the mucuous 
 tube. 
 
APPENDIX F. FISHES. 235 
 
 Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the abdomen, below the 
 lateral line. 
 
 Figs. 2 — 4. are magnified twelve times. 
 
 2. POMOTIS BREVICEPS, B. & G. 
 Zoology, PI. XIII. 
 
 Spec. char. — General form short and stout, subelliptical; 
 opercular flap very much developed, and directed upwards, 
 black with a lighter margin. Twenty-four rows of scales 
 across the line of greatest depth, and twelve rows on the 
 peduncle of the tail. Thirty-seven scales on the lateral line. 
 
 Syn. — Pomotis breviceps, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
 Phil. VI, 1853, 309. 
 
 Description. — The abbreviated head constitutes two-sev- 
 enths of the entire length, the caudal fin included. Middle 
 of the cranium slightly depressed. Nostrils nearer to the eye 
 than to the tip of the snout. Eyes of medium size and circu- 
 lar ; their diameter is contained four times only in the length 
 of the head from the snout to the base of insertion of the oper- 
 cular flap, which is longer than a diameter of the eye. The 
 mouth is proportionally small ; the posterior extremity of the 
 maxillary not extending as far back as the middle of the pupil. 
 The teeth are slender and more conspicuous than in Pomotis 
 longulus. Cheeks covered with scales, but slightly smaller 
 than those on the opercular apparatus. The opercular bones 
 have the same general shape as in Pomotis longulus ; but the 
 opercular flap is very much developed, longer than broad, 
 and rounded posteriorly. The structure of this flap is some- 
 what similar to a fin ; slender and simple rays being distinctly 
 visible through the membrane. 
 
 The dorsal fin commences in a line above the base of the 
 opercular flap. Its spinous portion is almost as elevated as 
 the soft one. There are eleven spinous rays, the first and 
 second smallest; and ten articulated or soft ones, occupying 
 a little more than half the space as the spines. The struc- 
 ture of the soft rajs and their relative length are much as in 
 Pomotis longulus; they bifurcate from the middle of their length, 
 and subdivide again upon their extremity. The caudal is 
 subcrescentic posteriorly, and its angles rounded. It is com- 
 posed of seventeen well developed rays, and a few rudimen- 
 
236 
 
 APPENDIX F. FISHES. 
 
 tary ones. The central rays bifurcate three times. The anal 
 fin is composed of nine soft rays, one more than in P. longulus, 
 and three spinous ones ; the second and third almost equal in 
 length. They bifurcate and divide in the same manner as 
 the dorsal. The insertion of the ventrals is immediately be- 
 hind the base of the pectorals. Their shape is triangular, 
 and when bent backwards their tip extends to the anterior 
 margin of the anal fin, thus overlapping the anus, which is 
 situated as in P. longulus, about a quarter of an inch in ad- 
 vance of the anterior margin of the anal fin. The ventrals 
 are composed of one spinous and five articulated rays, which 
 bifurcate three times. The insertion of the pectorals is sub- 
 crescentic ; the tip of these fins reaches about as far back as 
 do the ventrals. The rays, fourteen in number, (thirteen of 
 them well developed,) are slender and show traces of a bifur- 
 cation of the third degree upon their extremity. 
 
 D XL 10; A III. 9; C 2. I. 8. 7. I. 2; V I. 5; P 14. 
 
 The scales are proportionally large, higher than long, sub- 
 truncated anteriorly, and rounded posteriorly with minute 
 denticulations. Scales, irregularly disposed, exist on the base 
 of the caudal. The largest scales are seen on the middle of 
 the flanks, and the smallest upon the subthoracic region. The 
 ground-color appears to have been of a uniform reddish 
 brown. The opercular flap is deep black, margined with a 
 lighter line, the hue of which is not preserved. There are 
 several sinuous irregular lines upon the cheeks and opercular 
 apparatus. 
 
 This species has a general resemblance to Pomotis nietidus, 
 Kirt., but may easily be distinguished by prominent char- 
 acters. 
 
 One specimen was caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 
 
 Plate XIII, Pomotis breviceps of natural size. 
 
 Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 
 
 Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 
 
 Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the belly. 
 
 Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times. 
 
APPENDIX F. FISHES. 237 
 
 3. Leuciscus vigilax, B. & G.* 
 
 Zoology, PL XIV, figs. 1-4. 
 
 Spec. char. — Subfusiforra. Dorsal fin longer than high. 
 Sixteen rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, and 
 eight on the peduncle of the tail. Thirty-eight to forty scales 
 in the lateral line, which runs through the middle of the sides, 
 slightly bent downwards on the abdomen. 
 
 Syn. — Ceratichthys vigilax, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
 Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 
 
 Description. — Body subfusiform, compressed. The head 
 forms one-fifth of the entire length from the snout to the tip 
 of the caudal fin ; it is contained three times in the length of 
 the body, the caudal fin being about one-fifth of the entire 
 length. The head itself has the shape of a truncated cone. 
 The eyes are subelliptical ; their longitudinal diameter being 
 contained three times and a half in the length of the sides of 
 the head. The mouth is rather small, its angle not extending 
 to a point below the anterior rim of the eyes. The opercular 
 bone is conspicuously large, and almost trapezoidal in shape. 
 The subopercular and preopercular are comparatively small, 
 The isthmus beneath is about three-tenths of an inch wide. 
 
 The dorsal fin is longer than high, and is composed of nine 
 rays, bifurcated from about their middle ; some of the median 
 rays showing another subdivision upon their extremity. The 
 caudal fin is forked; its angles are acute. It contains eigh- 
 teen well-developed rays, and several rudimentary ones above 
 and below ; the central ones bifurcate twice. The base of 
 the caudal fin is considerably broader (higher) than the cen- 
 tral portion of the peduncle of the tail. The anal fin is situ- 
 ated behind the dorsal, is higher than long, subtrapezoidal, 
 and composed of eight bifurcated rays ; the central ones sub- 
 divided towards their extremity. The ventrals are inserted 
 very little behind the anterior margin of the dorsal ; they are 
 rather slender, posteriorly rounded, composed of eight bifur- 
 cated rays, the middle ones bifurcated towards their extremity : 
 
 *Note. — Owing to the immature state of the specimens, we have preferred 
 returning this species to the genus Leuciscus. Although having a strong resem- 
 blance to Ceratichthys, as also to Pimephales, in the bluntness of the snout, the 
 inferior position of the mouth, and other characters, yet the specimen is almost 
 too small to allow a final determination as to its generic character. 
 
238 
 
 APPENDIX F. FISHES. 
 
 and when bent backwards the fin does not reach quite to the 
 anus, which is situated immediately in advance of the anterior 
 margin of the anal fin. The pectorals are slender ; when 
 bent backwards they do not reach the insertion of the ven- 
 trals. They are composed of fourteen bifurcated rays, the 
 central ones subdividing at their last third. Formula : 
 
 D 9; A 8; C 3. I. 8. 8. I. 3; V 8; P 14. 
 
 The scales are proportionally large, a little higher than long, 
 rounded at both extremities, more abruptly posteriorly. The 
 lateral line runs along the middle of the side, slightly bent 
 downwards on the abdomen. 
 
 The ground-color is yellowish brown; a blackish stripe 
 composed of crowded dots follows the lateral line on the 
 sides. 
 
 One specimen (immature) caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 
 
 Plate XIV, fig. J, represents Leuciscus vigilax, size of life. 
 
 Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 
 
 Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 
 
 Fig. 4. Abdominal scale. 
 
 Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times. 
 
 4. Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 5-8. 
 
 Spec. char. — Compressed. Back arched. Tail slender. 
 Dorsal fin higher than long. Ten rows of scales across the 
 line of greatest depth, and five rows on the tail. The lateral 
 line, which contains about thirty-six scales, runs below the 
 middle of the flanks. Dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventral fins 
 well developed. 
 
 Syn. — Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
 Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 
 
 Description. — The body much compressed, and rather 
 short in appearance. Back considerably arched in advance 
 of the dorsal, behind which the body tapers quite rapidly pos- 
 teriorly, rendering the peduncle of the tail comparatively 
 slender. The head is about one-fifth of the entire length. 
 Eyes comparatively large and circular ; their diameter con- 
 tained three times and a half in the length of the head, one 
 diameter intervening between the eye and the snout. The 
 nostrils are nearer to the eyes than to the tip of the snout. 
 
APPENDIX F.-—F1SHES* Z6\S 
 
 The jaws are even, (the figure represents the lower one a little 
 too short.) The opercular apparatus is conspicuously devel- 
 oped, especially the opercular, which has the shape of an 
 elongated quadrangle, slightly concave posteriorly, and slight- 
 ly rounded inferiorly. The isthmus is quite small. 
 
 The anterior margin of the dorsal fin corresponds to the 
 middle of the distance between the snout and the base of the 
 caudal fin. It is angular and higher than long, and composed 
 of eight rays. The anal has the same. length as the dorsal, 
 but is not quite as high ; it is composed of nine articulated 
 •rays and two minute spines at the anterior margin. The 
 ventrals when bent backwards reach the anterior margin of 
 the anal fin, consequently overlapping the anus situated close 
 to the anal fin. They contain eight rays, all soft or articu- 
 lated. The pectorals are comparatively small and slender, 
 reaching the insertion of the ventrals when brought back- 
 wards. Their posterior margin is rounded ; the rays eleven 
 in number. In all the fins the rays are bifurcated, and the 
 middle ones subdivided upon their length. Formula : 
 D 8 ; A II. 9 ; C 4. I. 9. 9. I. 3 ; V 8 ; P 11. 
 
 The scales are large, higher than long, rounded anteriorly, 
 subtruncated posteriorly. The lateral liner forms a very open 
 curve, convex downwards, and nearer to the insertion of the 
 ventrals than to the base of dorsal. 
 
 The ground-color is grayish ; the hue is not preserved on 
 the specimen. 
 
 Caught, like the preceding, in Otter Creek, Arkansas. 
 
 Fig. 5 represents Leuciscus bubalinus the size of life, and ap- 
 parently quite mature. 
 
 Fig. 6. A dorsal scale. 
 
 Fig. 7. Scale from the lateral line. 
 
 Fig. 8. Abdominal scale. 
 
 Figs. 6-8 are enlarged twelve times. 
 
 5. Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 9-12. 
 
 Spec, char.— Subfusi form, compressed. Insertion of ven= 
 trals in advance of dorsal. Twelve rows of scales across 
 the line of greatest depth ; six rows on the tail. About thirty- 
 six in the lateral line, which is bent downwards on the abdo- 
 men and slightly broken in advance of the anal fin. Dorsal 
 and anal fins well developed. 
 
240 APPENDIX F.— FISHES. 
 
 Syn. — Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
 Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 
 
 Description. — 'The body is much compressed and subfu- 
 siform in general appearance, somewhat tapering from the 
 posterior margin of the dorsal and anal fins to the caudal, the 
 base of which is broader than the peduncle of the tail. The 
 greatest depth is equal to the length of the sides of the head, 
 which is contained three times and a half in the total length, 
 the caudal fin included. The greatest thickness is nearly 
 half of the depth. In general aspect it resembles Leuciscus 
 Jcenluclcierisis of Kirtland. The eyes are of medium size, sub- 
 circular ; their diameter contained four times in the length of 
 the sides of the head. The nostrils, situated towards the upper 
 surface of the head, are nearer to the eyes than to the tip of 
 the snout. The posterior extremity of the maxillary does not 
 reach the vertical of the anterior rim of the orbit. 
 
 The upper and posterior margins of the opercular consti- 
 tute a uniform curve, whilst the anterior and inferior margins 
 are straight, forming a rather acute angle. The subopercu- 
 lars and interoperculars are comparatively small. 
 
 The anterior margin of the dorsal fin is situated on the mid- 
 dle of the distance between the snout and the base of the 
 caudal; the fin itself is quadrangular, higher than long, and 
 composed of eight rays, the last double, and the anterior rudi- 
 mentary in close contact with the next. The anal is shaped 
 somewhat like the dorsal; it has nine perfect rays, and an 
 anterior rudimentary one. The caudal is deeply forked with 
 acute angles, and shorter than the head. It is composed of 
 nineteen well developed rays, and several rudimentary ones, 
 above and below. The ventrals are posteriorly rounded, (a 
 character not expressed in the figure,) composed of eight rays, 
 and when bent backwards their tips reach the anus, which is 
 situated immediately in advance of the anal fin. The pecto- 
 rals are elongated, rather slender, rounded, and their tip not 
 quite reaching the insertion of the ventrals. They are com- 
 posed of eleven slender, bifurcated, but not subdivided rays. 
 The median rays of the dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventrals, are 
 subdivided for at least one-fourth of their length, the bifurca- 
 tion beginning sometimes upon their middle. Formula : 
 
 D 8 + 1 ; A 1. 9 ; C 2. I. 9. 8. I. 1 ; V 8 ; P 11. 
 
 The scales are proportionally large, higher than long ; an- 
 terior, superior, and inferior margins, uniformly rounded, pos- 
 
APPENDIX F. FISHES. 241 
 
 terioiiy subtruncated. The lateral line is considerably bent 
 down on the abdomen, and slightly broken in advance of the 
 anal fin. 
 
 The ground-color, as preserved in alcohol, is dull bluish 
 brown ; the back is bluish ; the dorsal fin yellowish brown ; 
 the caudal, pectorals, and ventrals are reddish. 
 
 Several specimens were caught in Otter creek, Arkansas ; 
 the largest of which we have had figured. 
 
 Plate XIV, fig. 9, Leuciscus lutrensis size of life. 
 
 Fig. 10. A dorsal scale from the middle of the region be- 
 tween the dorsal fin and the lateral line. 
 
 Fig. 11. A scale of the lateral line taken beneath the dor- 
 sal fin. 
 
 Fig. 12. An abdominal scale taken beneath the lateral line, 
 ~ way between the latter and the line of the belly. 
 
242 APPENDIX P.— SHELLS. 
 
 SHELLS. 
 ;y professor c. b. adams. 
 
 Amherst, Massachusetts, 
 
 December 1, 1852. 
 
 Dear Sir : I transmit herewith a list of the shells which 
 were collected in Texas and upon Red river by Captain, 
 Marcy ; 
 
 And have the honor to remain your obedient servant, 
 
 C. B. ADAMS. 
 President Hitchcock. 
 
 ACEPHALA. 
 
 1. Unio asperrimus, Lea» 
 
 The specimens have a great profusion of small tubercles 
 on the umbones. One large specimen was taken May 22d ? 
 at the foot of the Witchita mountains : 3 mature and 5 young 
 shells were taken in Otter creek, July 13th, near the same 
 place; long, about 100° W.; lat. about 34° 35' N. 
 
 2. Unio, Sp. indet. 
 
 This may be a variety of the preceding; but with only one 
 decayed specimen we do not venture to describe it as a new 
 species. It differs in having only a few large tubercles in two 
 radiant series, of which one passes down the middle of the 
 disc and the other is on the posterior angle. A few small 
 curved ridges proceed from this angle to the ligamentary 
 margin. No label. 
 
 3. Unio tuberculatus, Barnes. 
 
 A single valve of a young specimen ; no label. 
 
APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 243 
 
 4. Unio anodontoides, Lea. 
 
 7 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th ; one of 
 them is 5 inches long, 2 to 3 inches high, and 1.6 inch wide. 
 
 5. Unio parvus, Barnes. 
 
 2 J specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
 
 6. Unio hydianus, Lea. 
 
 2 specimens were taken near Fort Washita July 31st. 
 
 7. Unio l^evissimus, Lea. 
 
 The specimen is for this species remarkably thick ; the 
 nacre is deeply colored with reddish purple, and there are 
 some fine radiating stria? behind the umbones. No label, but 
 may have been taken in Otter creek, since it was in the same 
 parcel with the next species. 
 
 8. Unio gracilis, Barnes. 
 
 Several specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th, 
 and some July 15th, probably in a branch of Cache creek, a 
 few miles west of Otter creek. 
 
 9. Cyclas distorta, Prime. 
 
 4£ specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
 
 GASTEROPODA. 
 
 10. Bulimus liquabilis, Reeve. 
 
 4 specimens (dead) were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
 This is the only terrestrial species in the collection. 
 
 11. Physa ancillaria, Say. 
 
 3 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. Thej 
 are more shouldered than is usual, but not so much as the 
 
244 APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 
 
 variety figured by Professor Haldeman, Monog. Physa, pi. 8 t 
 fig. 5. 
 
 12. Physa heterostropha, Say. 
 12 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
 
 13. Lymn^ea caperata, Say. 
 
 2 specimens were taken May 16th, one day from Cache 
 creek. 
 
 14. Planorbis lentus, Say, 
 
 Several specimens were taken with the preceding ; also in 
 Otter creek, July 13th. 
 
 Geographical distribution. 
 
 Nos. 3, 11, 12, and 13 occur also through the western and 
 eastern States. No. 8 has its northeastern limit in Lake 
 Champlain. Although Ohio specimens of this species are 
 easily distinguished from those of Lake Champlain, it is re- 
 markable that these Texan shells cannot be distinguished 
 from them. Nos. 5, 6, and 14 are southern species. No. 10 
 has hitherto been known only as a Texan shell. The re- 
 mainder are western and southern species. 
 
 NOTICES OF ADDITIONAL SPECIES OF SHELLS : BY G. C, SHU= 
 MARD, M. D. 
 
 1. Unio anodontoides, Lea, 
 
 Found in the Little Witchita, and in a small creek between 
 Fort Washita and Fort Arbuckle ; quite abundant, and the 
 specimens very beautiful. 
 
 2. Unio rugosus, Barnes. 
 
 Occurs with the preceding species at all the localities above 
 mentioned. The specimens are less ventricose than any we 
 have seen from the Ohio basin. They approach more nearly 
 to a variety brought by Professor Litton from Red river of 
 the north. 
 
APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 245 
 
 3. Unio siliquoideus, Barnes. 
 
 Found in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort 
 Washita. 
 
 4. Unio l^evissimus, Lea. 
 
 A few detached valves of this species were found on the 
 banks of Otter creek. 
 
 5. Anodonta imbecilis, Say. 
 
 Abundant and very beautiful, in Beaver creek ; more spar- 
 ingly in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort 
 Washita. 
 
 6. Planorbis trivolvis, Say. 
 
 Abundant in many of the streams from Fort Belknap to the 
 
 sources of Red river. 
 
 7. Physa gyrina, Say. 
 Beaver creek, Choctaw Nation. 
 
 8. Succinea avara, Sa} 1- . 
 Otter creek, Choctaw Nation. 
 
 9. Cyclas parttjmeia, Say. 
 Otter and Beaver creek. 
 
 10. Bulimus dealbata, Say. 
 
246 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 
 
 ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 
 
 BY CHARLES GIRARD. 
 
 i 
 
 I. DAIHINIA, Hald. 
 
 Gen. char. — Body rather short, concave above, without 
 any traces of wings ; provided with short and robust limbs ; 
 second and third joints of tarsi, equal ; antennae long and fili- 
 form. A row of spines upon the under surface of the femora, 
 more conspicuous in males than in females. 
 
 Syn. — Daihinia, Hald. Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. Sc. II, 
 1850, 346. 
 
 Obs. — The general aspect of this genus is that of Phalan- 
 gopsis, from which it differs by having "shorter antennae, 
 shorter and more robust limbs." It approximates to Steno- 
 pelmatus by the structure of its tarsi, in which the second and 
 third joints are equal. 
 
 Prof. Haldeman, who traced the distinction between Dai- 
 kinia and Phalangopsis, proposed to consider the former as a 
 mere sub-genus of the latter. But should the above charac- 
 ter prove constant, they are sufficient to raise Daihinia to the 
 rank of a genus ; thus simplifying much the nomenclature. 
 
 Two species of this genus are known — the one herein 
 described and figured, and D. robusta, Hald., an inhabitant of 
 New Mexico. 
 
 1. Daihinia brevipes, Hald* 
 
 Zoology, PI. XV, figs. 9-13. 
 
 Spec char — Dark brown, mottled with lighter shades; 
 legs short and robust; tibiae shorter than the femora, and 
 strongly spinous ; antennae of medium development. 
 
 Syn. — Phalangopsis (Daihinia) brevipes, Hald. Proc. Amer. 
 Assoc. Adv. Sc. II, 1850, 346. 
 
APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 247 
 
 Description. — The fact that in this species the tibiae are 
 shorter than the femora, contributes somewhat to impress 
 upon it more strongly that character of the genus which con- 
 sists in being provided with shorter limbs than in Phalangopsis. 
 The surface of the body is generally smooth, but posteriorly, 
 and particularly in the male, there are minute short spines, 
 which give to that region a granulated appearance; these 
 minute spines are especially crowded upon the margin of the 
 segments or articulations. The femora are provided with 
 spines above and below, stronger below, and more so in the 
 male. The tibial spines are very much developed on the an- 
 terior and posterior tibiae, much less on the medial ones; 
 anteriorly they occupy the outer edge of the limbs, and an- 
 swer fossorial purposes ; posteriorly they constitute two rows, 
 directed horizontally backwards, inclining a little downwards, 
 the inner row being the strongest. The anterior and poste- 
 rior tarsi are trimerous ; the medial ones being tetramerous. 
 The ovipositor is comparatively small; its length being less 
 than the half of the length of the body, and provided beneath 
 and towards the tip with from eight to ten small spines. 
 
 The ground-color is chesnut-brown, mottled above with 
 lighter shades. The antenna? and spines are blackish. 
 
 Specimens were collected at the Camp No. 7, recorded as 
 "yellowish-brown;" others on June 5th and 6th, said to be 
 " yellowish-red." 
 
 Plate XV, fig. 9, represents the male Daihinia brcvipes size 
 of life. 
 
 Fig. 10 is the female, also the size of life. 
 
 Fig. 11, front view of the head of the female. 
 
 Fig. 12, a tarsus from above. 
 
 Fig. 13, a tarsus from below. 
 
 II. ANABRUS, Hald. 
 
 Gen. Char.— Body sub-cylindrical, thickest in the middle ; 
 without wings ; antenna? almost as long as the body, and fili- 
 form ; pronotum selliform, extending over the basal articula- 
 tion of the abdomen, and concealing rudimentary elytra ; 
 ovipositor elongated, nearly straight, sword-shaped ; tarsi 
 broad, soles concave ; third articulation cordate. 
 
 Syn. — Anabrus, Hald. in Stansb. Expl. Vail. G. Salt Lake, 
 1852, App. C. 370. 
 
248 APPENDIX F.— ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 
 
 Obs. — -The general appearance of the genus Anabrus re- 
 minds us strongly of Phalangopsis proper, from which it is dis- 
 tinguished by its movable and selliform pronotum and the 
 length and shape of the ovipositor. • The general proportions 
 of the body and limbs are more elongated than in Phalangop- 
 sis. The structure of the tarsi, which is not apparent upon a 
 first glance, affords other differences not less important, be- 
 tween Anabrus and Phalangopsis, when studied compara- 
 tively. 
 
 2. Anabrus haldemanii, Girard, 
 
 Zoology, PI. XV, figs. 5-8. 
 
 Spec. char. — Antennae long and filliform, reaching pos- 
 teriorly the base of the ovipositor ; pronotum short, broad ; 
 femora smooth. Yellowish ; feet and ovipositor reddish pur- 
 ple. Posterior margin of pronotum black, with two parallel 
 black bands on the posterior third of its length. 
 
 Description.— The abdomen above exhibits ten segments 
 or articulations ; the anterior or basal one being, as stated 
 above, covered by the posterior prolongation of the pronotum. 
 Beneath there are seven sub-quadrangular plates, situated 
 opposite to the seven middle upper segments, The posterior 
 segments enclose another piece bearing two spine-like, ab- 
 dominal appendages — one on each side. The ovipositor is as 
 long as the abdomen, and entirely smooth. The base of the 
 antennae is situated above the eyes, and inserted upon an angu- 
 lar movable piece. The joints composing these organs are 
 very short, and provided with minute setae. The tibiae are 
 provided with four rows of spines, two anterior and two pos- 
 terior ; the internal posterior row being the stoutest. The 
 posterior rows are more densely set with spines, whilst the 
 latter are scattered and alternate with each other in the ante- 
 rior rows. The first and cordate joint of the tarsi is the long- 
 est ; the second is the shortest ; and from the middle of the 
 third, a fourth slender and long joint arises, slightly convex 
 above, and terminating in two spines or claws curved inwards 
 and outwards. 
 
 The ground-color above and below is yellowish ; the an- 
 tennae, limbs, and ovipositor are of a reddish purple. The 
 posterior margin of the pronotum is black. Two parallel 
 black vittae, enclosing a narrow yellow one, are observed on 
 
APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 
 
 each side of the dorsal line, upon the posterior third of the 
 pronotum. The posterior portion of the upper abdominal 
 segments is occasionally of a deep-brown hue. 
 
 This species differs from Anabrus simplex, Hald., by a pro- 
 portionally much shorter pronotum. 
 
 One specimen, caught June 27th, is recorded as " green 
 and white." 
 
 Plate XV, fig. 5, represents Anabrus haldemann in a profile 
 view and of the size of life. 
 
 Fig. 6 is a front view of the head. 
 
 Fig. 7, a tarsus frorri, above. 
 
 Fig. 8, a tarsus from below. 
 
 III. BRACHYPEPLUS, Charp. 
 
 Gen. char. — Body acrydoid ; elytra and wings rudimen- 
 tary; antennas rather short; pronotum tricarinated ; surface 
 between the carinas granulated. Second joint of tarsi very 
 short ; first and third elongated ; last one terminating by two 
 curved claws, between which is situated a subcircular fleshy 
 disk. 
 
 Syn. — Brachijpeplus, Charp. Orth. descr. et pict. Fasc. IX, 
 1843, Tab. li. 
 
 Obs. — This genus, established by Toussaint de Char pen- 
 tier in his Orthoptera descripta et picta, was not characterized, 
 owing, perhaps, to the fact that one species only was known 
 and described by him under the name of B. virescens, said to 
 inhabit " Mexico." It may easily be distinguished from the 
 one we shall describe by its much shorter antennae and slen- 
 derer tarsi ; also by its color, which is deep-green, with a few 
 brown spots on the pronotum, and a double series of these 
 along the upper part of the abdomen. 
 
 3. Brachypealus magnus, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PL XV, fig. 1-4. 
 
 Spec char. — Reddish brown ; elytra dotted with black ; 
 antennas bluish brown ; femora and tibiae reddish ; tarsi pur- 
 plish ; spines black towards tip ; femora sub fusiform ; a ca- 
 rina along the upper and middle region of the abdomen. 
 
250 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 
 
 Description. — The pronotum is one-third of the length of 
 the abdomen, overlapping posteriorly the anterior abdominal 
 segment entirely and half of the second. The entire number 
 of abdominal segments or articulations is eleven, carinated 
 upon their medial line, and continuing the medial carina of 
 the pronotum all along the middle region of the abdomen 
 above. Antennas a little longer than the pronotum, and com- 
 posed of about twenty short joints. The tibiae are shorter 
 than the femora, and provided, the two anterior pairs inter- 
 nally, and the posterior pair externally, with two rows of 
 spines, the inner row the strongest. The femora are sub- 
 fusiform ; the posterior ones a little broader than thick, but 
 never as much compressed as in B. virescens, in which these 
 organs present sharp edges. The tarsi are all tetramerous : 
 the first article is the stoutest and the longest, the second being 
 quite short ; the third is more slender, and the fourth the 
 smallest, terminating into two carved spines or claws, be- 
 tween which is a subcircular fleshy disk. The rudimentary 
 elytra are subovoidal, not extending backwards to the poste- 
 rior margin of the third abdominal segment. 
 
 The ground-color, as preserved upon specimens in alco- 
 hol, is yellowish brown ; black dots and spots are scattered 
 over the rudimentary elytra. The antennas are bluish brown; 
 the femora and tibiae reddish, and the tarsi purplish, whilst the 
 spines are black. 
 
 This species differs from B. virescens by its proportionally 
 longer antennae, shorter pronotum, and less compressed fem- 
 ora. • The general shape of the body is in every respect pro- 
 portionally longer than in the latter species. 
 
 Two specimens were collected on the 7th of July — one 
 *' green," the other " reddish brown." 
 
 Plate XV, fig. 1, represents Brachypeplus magnus in natural 
 size. 
 
 Fig. 2, front view of the head. 
 
 Fig. 3, a tarsus from above. 
 
 Fig. 4, same from below. 
 
 We refer to Brachypeplus virescens two specimens ; one col- 
 lected on the 12th of June, and which was " green above, 
 white beneath, with yellow and black stripes on the back ; JJ 
 another specimen, a little smaller, caught June 21st, was 
 " green and brown," 
 
APPENDIX F.— ARACHNIDIANS. 251 
 
 ARACHNIDIAN8. 
 
 BY CHARLES GIRARD, 
 
 i. araneidj:, 
 1. Mygale hentzii, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XVI, 1-3. 
 
 Spec. char. — Blackish brown ; densely studded with hairs, 
 Cephalothorax subcircular, with a median and transversely 
 elliptical infundibulum upon its posterior half, whence shallow 
 grooves radiate towards the periphery. Abdomen ovoido 
 Palpi composed of five joints besides the maxilla?, a hook in 
 the male. Legs six-jointed. 
 
 Description. — -This species is one of the largest of the 
 genus hitherto found within the limits of the United States. 
 The specimen figured, however, is much below the usual size. 
 The cephalothorax is subcircular in shape, a little broader in 
 the male than in the female. The eyes are disposed as in 
 fig. 3, on a little eminence near the anterior margin, and upon 
 the midial line. On the posterior half of the same region, on 
 a line with the eyes, is a traverse infundibulum, sometimes 
 subcrescentic, convex posteriorly. Shallow and sometimes 
 irregular grooves radiate from that centre towards the margin 
 of the cephalothorax The abdomen is ovoid ; considerably 
 larger in the female than in the male. The labrum is quite 
 small. The chelicerae are robust, regularly arched, termina- 
 ted by a rather slender hook, similarly curved, and movable 
 upon the cheliceras. The palpi are six-jointed ; the basal joint, 
 functioning as maxilla, is robust, and not otherwise distin- 
 guished from the following, except that it is provided along 
 its inner margin with a brush-like series of hairs. The second 
 joint is very short"; the third is the longest ; the fourth is a 
 little larger than the second ; the fifth a little shorter than the 
 third ; the fourth shorter than the fifth ; the sixth is the size of 
 the second, but differently shaped, being rounded at its ex- 
 
252 APPENDIX F.— ARACHNIDIANS. 
 
 tremity, at the inferior surface of which exists a hook, very 
 stout at the base, tapering into an acute point, curved down- 
 wards and outwards. In the female the sixth joint of the 
 palpi is as long and of the same shape as the fifth, and de- 
 prived of the hook. The fourth pair of legs is the longest ; the 
 first pair comes next ; the second pair is the smallest. They 
 are all six jointed, the first joint short and robust. The second 
 joint is the longest ; the third the smallest ; the fifth is, after 
 the second, the next in length ; then the fourth, and finally the 
 sixth. The external pair of fusi, or spinning apparatus, is 
 slender, and as usual, three-jointed , the internal pair is very 
 small, and not conspicuous. The whole surface of the body 
 and legs, above and below, is densely covered with fine setose 
 hairs. The color is uniform blackish brown. 
 
 The My gale hentzii is the large black spider known in the 
 Southwest as the tarantula, where its bite is greatly dreaded. 
 
 A female specimen was collected on the 17th of May, on an 
 open, barren prairie between Camps 2 and 3. Other speci- 
 mens of both sexes were taken^pn the 28th of June, near the 
 head of south fork of Red river. 
 
 Plate XVI, fig. 1, represents Mygale hentzii seen from above. 
 Fig. 2 is an underview to exhibit the labrum (1,) the maxillae 
 (m,) the chelicerae (c,) and the palpi (p,) also to show the fusi 
 (f.) Fig. 3 represents the disposition of the ocelli. 
 
 2. Lycos a pilosa, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PL XVI, figs. 4 and 5. 
 
 Spec, char.— Hairs of a yellowish brown color, covering 
 the upper parts. Beneath black ; cephalothorax subpyriform ; 
 abdomen ovoid. Palpi composed of five joints besides the 
 maxillse ; terminal joint provided beneath with two small 
 spines. Legs very long and slender ; all six-jointed. 
 
 Description. — Of all the American Lycosa hitherto des- 
 cribed the present species is the one in which the legs are the 
 longest and the most slender. The size of the celphalothorax 
 and abdomen is proportionally smaller, however, than in L. 
 fatifera, Hentz. 
 
 The cephalothorax is longer than broad, elevated on its 
 
 •middle region, and anteriorly very prominent ; subpyriform in 
 
 its general outline : the narrowest part directed forwards. 
 
 Its surface, when freed from its fur, exhibits shallow grooves 
 
APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDXANS. 253 
 
 radiating from the centre towards the periphery, pretty much 
 in the same manner as in the My gale just described, although 
 much less conspicious. There is no central infundibulum, 
 which is replaced here by a minute longitudinal furrow about 
 a tenth of an inch in length. The abdomen is ovoid, and as 
 usual, larger in the female than in the male. 
 
 The cheliceras are stout, with a very slight downwards in- 
 flexion, provided with small protuberances upon the inner 
 margin of its anterior extremity, and terminated by a slender 
 hook curved inwardly. The labrum is comparatively small, 
 whilst the maxillae are stout. The palpi are slender, and 
 composed of five joints. The first joint is very small, incon- 
 spicuous ; the second is the longest and the most slender of 
 all ; the third is somewhat larger than the first, the fourth lar- 
 ger than the third, and the fifth larger than the fourth, which 
 is swollen and sub-concave beneath, provided with two min- 
 ute hooks inserted upon two tubercles. In the female the 
 palpi are slenderer than in the male, and the last joint is simple 
 and longer than the third. If he legs are l° n g a °d slender, 
 composed of six joints : the nind pair is the longest; the 
 first pair is the next in length ; the third pair is the shortest. 
 The third joint is the smallest in the four pairs ; the first joint 
 is the next in length, and the stoutest ; the second pair is the 
 longest in the three anterior pair ; the fifth comes next, then 
 the fourth and sixth. In the posterior pair the fifth joint is 
 the longest ; then the second ; then the fourth and sixth. The 
 fusi, four in number, are short, intimately grouped, and com- 
 posed of a single joint. The whole surface of the body and 
 legs, above and below, is densely covered with short hairs. 
 
 The color above is uniform grayish brown. The abdomen, 
 cephalothorax, and first joint of legs beneath, are deep black. 
 The second, third, and fourth joints are of the color of the up- 
 per parts upon their middle, and black near their articulations. 
 The fifth and sixth joints are almost entirely black. The ex- 
 tremity of the cheliceras and palpi are black beneath. When 
 the hairy covering is removed, the color is a uniform chestnut- 
 brown. 
 
 The color may present some variations ; thus in the notes 
 of Captain Marcy one is described as having " the back 
 brown, belly dirty white, head and legs red." 
 
 One specimen preserved in alcohol exhibits a reddish band 
 down the middle of the cephalothorax, and two black vittae, 
 one on each side of the abdomen. The cephalothorax neahbte 
 
254 APPENDIX F. — -ARACHNIDIANS* 
 
 is reddish ; and on the abdomen there are two elliptical light, 
 spots. 
 
 Specimens were collected the 16th of May on the open 
 prairie, between camps 1 and 2 ; and on the 19th of June, on 
 Canadian river, Arkansas. 
 
 Plate XVI, fig. 4, represents the trophi, showing the labrum 
 (I,) the maxillae (m,) the palpi (p,) and chelicerae (c.) Fig 5 
 exhibits the disposition of the ocelli. 
 
 II. TARANTULID^E. 
 Thelyphonus excubitor, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XVII, fig. 1-4. 
 
 Spec. char. — Blackish brown above, deep chestnut be- 
 neath ; upper surface of body and legs minutely granular ; 
 beneath smooth, with scattered minute imprinted dots. First 
 and second articles of the palpkfcery granular, remaining ones 
 with a few granules and numerous imprinted dots. Caudal 
 appendage very much developed, and composed of about fifty 
 joints. 
 
 Description. — There is a very great resemblance between 
 this species and T. giganteus.* The only striking difference 
 which exists between them is to be found in the structure of 
 the palpi and in the length of the caudal appendage. 
 
 The cephalothorax is elongated, narrowest anteriorly, where 
 it assumes almost a triangular shape. Its posterior margin is 
 subtruncated, slightly concave in the middle. The central 
 portion of the anterior third of the cephalothorax presents a 
 perfectly plane surface, with a medial furrow, as it were, 
 whilst posteriorly it is depressed, and sloping towards the 
 margins, the surface showing shallow depressions, one upon 
 the middle line, and more regular than the lateral one. Near 
 the anterior extremity, and in a subcircular depression on each 
 side of the medial, smooth, and rounded elevation, are found 
 the ocelli, circular, large and black. In advance of these 
 ocelli, the rostrum is almost abruptly truncated, as seen in the 
 centre of fig. 3. From the anterior ocelli to the lateral ones 
 extends a linear series of granules, terminating upon the tuber- 
 
 * See Guerin's Magazin de Zoologie, 1835, Class VIII, for an illustrated mo- 
 nograph of the genus Thelyphonus by H. Lucas. 
 
APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 255 
 
 culous elevations, upon which are seen three yellowish ocelli 
 grouped, as exhibited in fig. 2. 
 
 The chelicerse are robust, but very slightly bent, composed 
 of one large joint and a conical, curved, and acute spine, to 
 the inner side of which are attached brushes of quite elongated 
 and reddish setae. Palpi long and robust, in the shape of arms, 
 and composed of six joints. The first joint is seen only from 
 below (fig. 4, a,) and exhibits a subtriangular and flat surface, 
 terminated anteriorly by a conical point, The second joint is 
 smaller than the first, scarcely to be seen viewed from below, 
 but developed upon its upper surface into a flattened and 
 irregular disk, provided upon its anterior margin with five 
 conical spines, varying in size : seen in front, (fig. 3, b,) it is 
 elevated almost vertically from the horizontal position of the 
 first. The third joint is the longest of all, slightly curved, and 
 provided inwardly with two minute spines — one above, the 
 other below. The fourth joint is somewhat shorter than the 
 third, but is much longer than broad, subcylindrical, slightly 
 bent, and provided at its inner, anterior, and upper edge with 
 a prominent, conical, and straight spine. The fifth joint is of 
 the length of the fourth, but slenderer, and provided anteriorly 
 with a stout and shorter spine. Finally, the sixth joint is a 
 subcorneal and spiny processus, moving against the spine of 
 the fifth joint, constituting a forceps, and used as such to seize 
 prey. The thoracic appendages (feet) are long and slender, 
 especially the anterior and posterior pairs. The anterior pair 
 may be readily distinguished from the three others, in not 
 being provided with hooks upon their extremity. Its function 
 is rather that of a pair of palpi than that of ambulatoiy organs. 
 The first and second joints are short and stout ; the third, 
 fourth, and fifth long and slender; the fourth and fifth almost 
 equal in length, and longer than the third. Eight small joints, 
 together equal in length to the third, terminate these appen- 
 dages. The three others are constructed upon the same plan, 
 all having nine joints and terminal hooks, generally two in 
 number. The first, second, and third joints are similar to 
 those of the anterior pair; the third, however, is the longest; 
 the fourth is but a little longer though slenderer than the se- 
 cond, and slightly curved; the fifth is much slenderer and a 
 little shorter than the third. Next come four small joints, to- 
 gether smaller in length than the fifth, and provided upon their 
 anterior margin with minute spines. The second of these 
 four,* or the seventh in the series, is the longest of the four ; 
 the third is the smallest ; the first and fourth are equal in 
 
256 APPENDIX F. ARACHNID1ANS. 
 
 length, the latter much slenderer. Two hook-like and slen- 
 der spines terminate these organs 
 
 The abdomen is longer than the cephalothorax, oval in 
 shape, though depressed, and composed of eight very distinct 
 segments and a half, the anterior one. The stigmatiform 
 bodies are quite conspicuous above (seven pairs) and below, 
 (four pairs.) The anterior half segment is not seen from 
 below. The seventh segment exhibits laterally a second pair 
 of stigmatiform bodies, less conspicuous, however, than the 
 others. The posterior segment has also faint traces of an 
 analogous pair. The two first caudal rings are very narrow ; 
 the third is as large as the two others together. The filiform 
 appendage is very long, and composed of about fifty joints. 
 
 The upper surface of the cephalothorax and abdomen is 
 covered with minute granules extending over the palpi, being 
 particularly dense on the three first articles, and over the 
 three first joints of the thoracic appendages also. Minute 
 impunctures are seen upon the remaining articles and joints, 
 and also scattered upon the inferior surface of the appendages 
 and body. Minute setae are scattered over the appendages 
 of the cephalothorax and abdomen, more densely towards 
 their extremities. 
 
 The color is uniform blackish brown above, and deep chest- 
 nut beneath. 
 
 One specimen of this animal was collected. 
 
 Plate XVII, fig. 1, represents, seen from above, Thelypho- 
 nus excubitor the size of life. 
 
 Fig. 2 gives the position, number, and relative size of the 
 ocelli. 
 
 Fig. 3 is a front view, exhibiting in the centre the chelicerae 
 and the three first articles (a, b, c) of the palpi. 
 
 Fig. 4 represents the anterior portion of the cephalothorax 
 from below : a, first article, b, second article, and c, third 
 article of the palpi ; and d, anterior pair of feet. 
 
 HI. SCORPIONIDiE. 
 
 Although the collections made in the valley of Red river 
 contained no specimen of this group of arachnides, we have 
 brought them here to notice, satisfied as we are that they exist 
 in that locality. 
 
 Scorpions are found in the southern Atlantic States, all 
 along the Gulf of Mexico, through Texas and New Mexico to 
 California, and through Louisiana to Arkansas. 
 
APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 257 
 
 1. Scorpio (Telegonus) boreus, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XVII, figs. 5-7. 
 
 Spec. char. — Body greenish yellow ; thoracic and caudal 
 appendages yellowish. Lateral ocelli in close contiguity ; 
 posterior one the smallest. Median ocelli situated on the 
 sides of an elongated and black elevation. Chelicerse termi- 
 nated by a serrated claw. Palpi robust, shorter than the 
 body. Caudal appendage as long as the body, the spine ex- 
 cepted. Abdominal comb with eighteen lamina?. 
 
 Description. — The general form of the body is fusiform, 
 anteriorly and posteriorly tapering. The cephalothorax proper 
 is subquadrilateral, longer than broad, narrower anteriorly 
 than posteriorly ; both of these extremities linear ; lateral 
 margin somewhat undulated. Its surface is carved with a 
 few undulating grooves, giving to the rest an undulated ap- 
 pearance; and over the whole, minute granules. The median 
 ocelli are black, situated a little in advance of the middle of 
 the length of the thorax, and placed on the sides of an elon- 
 gated, little, and black eminence, divided longitudinally by a 
 groove. The lateral ocelli are set close together, and situated 
 near the anterior margin of the cephalothorax ; the posterior 
 one is much the smallest : they are represented with their 
 relative proportions in fig. 7. The chelicerse are stout, two- 
 jointed, the second being the largest, and is terminated by a 
 minutely serrated claw ; the palpi are five-jointed ; the first 
 joint is short and stout, and fulfils the function of jaws without 
 denticulation. The second is the smallest. The third and 
 fourth are more elongated ; the third a little longer than the 
 fourth. They are angular, the angles being margined with 
 dense tows of minute granules. The fifth joint or hand 
 (carpus) is stout and swollen, exhibiting eight undulating ribs, 
 (four above and four below,) upon which is a row of minute 
 granules. Two rows above and below are seen extending 
 along the spiny immovable processus of the hand, constituting, 
 with a movable spine, a slender chela or claw, slightly curved 
 inwards. Scattered setse may be seen on the whole length of 
 the palpi, and also on the thoracic appendages, (feet.) " The 
 latter are slender; the fourth pair is the longest; the first pair 
 the smallest, the second and third pairs being of intermediate 
 proportions ; the second longer than the first, and the third 
 longer than the second. They are all flattened, seven-jointed, 
 and terminated by minute hooks. The third joint is in every 
 17 
 
258 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 
 
 one the longest and most slender; the fifth, sixth, and seventh 
 are small, the seventh being the smallest of all. There are 
 generally three terminal hooks ; occasionally minute spines 
 may be seen near the articulation of the sixth and seventh 
 joints. The first joint is the stoutest, and in the first pair of 
 these appendages it has something to do with mastication, 
 functioning perhaps as a lower lip. The abdominal combs 
 are slender and elongated, and composed of a transverse tri- 
 articulated piece, and of eighteen little laminas attached to it. 
 The dorso-abdominal shields, seven in number, increase in 
 size from forwards backwards, the anterior one being the 
 narrowest of all. Their surface exhibits minute granules not 
 very conspicuous. There are only five ventral shields, nearly 
 equal in size ; the posterior one somewhat different in shape, 
 and not provided with stigmata. The caudal appendage 
 (tail) is as long as the body, and composed of five joints and 
 a poison bag. The two first joints are the smallest, the fifth 
 being the longest ; the poison bag is swollen up and provided 
 with a slightly curved and acute hollow spine. The upper 
 part of each joint is concave or grooved, whilst the inferior 
 part is convex. They are carinated, and rows of conspicuous 
 granules are observed along the carinae. 
 
 The color- of the body above is uniform greenish yellow ; 
 the thoracic appendages (feet) are yellowish, whilst the palpi 
 and caudal appendage (tail) reflect a reddish shade upon the 
 yellow ground. 
 
 The specimen figured was collected in the valley of the 
 Great Salt Lake of Utah, by Captain Howard Stansbury. 
 
 A much smaller specimen was brought from Eagle Pass, 
 Texas, by Mr. Arthur Schott, of the United States and Mex- 
 ican boundary. 
 
 Plate XVI, fig. 5, represents, size of life, S. ( Telegonus) 
 horeus seen from above. 
 
 Fig. 6 is a view from beneath, to show the abdominal 
 combs, first abdominal segment, and origin of fourth and third 
 pairs of feet. 
 
 Fig. 7 represents the distribution of the ocelli. 
 
 2. Scorpio (Atreus) californicus, Girard. 
 
 General form of body and appendages slender when com- 
 pared to the preceding species. The tail is almost twice the 
 length of the body ; there is not the same disproportion of 
 length between the first and second joints and the remaining 
 
APPENDIX F. — -ARACHNIDIANS. 259 
 
 ones. The carinae and rows of granules are much less con- 
 spicuous. The cephalothorax and dorso-abdominal shields 
 exhibit carinae and rows of granules not only on the palpi, but 
 likewise on the feet. Rows of granules may be seen along 
 the angular projections or carinas. The chelae are much slen- 
 derer, the hand (carpus) and poison bag much smaller. An 
 exceedingly minute spine may be observed on the poison bag 
 under the sting. The lateral ocelli are situated more anteriorly, 
 more apart from each other, and equal amongst themselves. 
 The abdominal combs are composed of twenty laminae. 
 
 Color light brown ; palpi and tail deeper ; upper part of 
 abdomen blackish, with a median light vitta. 
 
 One specimen was collected in California and presented by 
 Dr. Stone to the Smithsonian Institution. 
 
 3. Scorpio (Atreus) sayi, Girard. 
 
 SYN.—Butkus vittatus, Say, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. II, 
 1821, 61. 
 
 _ Upon a close examination of several specimens of this spe- 
 cies obtained from western Florida, we satisfied ourselves 
 that it belongs to the subgenus Atreus instead of Buthics, in 
 which k was placed by Thomas Say. It so happens that 
 the specific name of vittatus has since been given by Guerin 
 to another South American species of scorpions ; and if we 
 propose here to replace Say's specific name, against the 
 received law of priority, we would remark that when full 
 grown, the vittae entirely disappear, and the color becomes 
 uniform deep reddish brown, the legs and under surface being- 
 lighter. In this species the tail is once and a half the length 
 of the body. The palpi, are proportionally small, and in the 
 young exiguous. The chelae are slender, slightly curved, 
 with an undulation at their base, but without marked denticu- 
 lations. _ The upper surface is finely granular. There are 
 from thirty to thirty-two laminae to the abdominal combs. 
 "Fuscous, with three fulvous vittae, sides black," applies 
 strictly to the immature state. 
 
 Specimens of this species were sent from Pensacola, Flor- 
 ida, to the Smithsonian Institution, by Dr. Jeffrey, U. S. N., 
 and Dr. J. F. Hammond, U. S. A. 
 
 A species very closely allied, if not identical wtih Scorpio 
 (Atreus) sayi, is not uncommon in Texas, where several spe- 
 cimens were collected by Lieut. D. N. Couch, U. S. A. 
 
260 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 
 
 IV. PSEUDOSCORPIONIM. 
 
 Observations upon Galeodes subulata op Thomas Say. 
 
 Two species of this genus are described by the same 
 author in Major Long's Expedition;* one under the name of 
 Galeodes pallvpes, the other under that of G. subulata, the only 
 difference between them consisting in the structure of the 
 chelicerse, which in G. pallipes are terminated by arcuated 
 claws, armed within with many robust teeth, whilst in G. subu- 
 lata the upper claw is nearly rectilinear, and the lower one 
 alone possessed with two robust teeth. 
 
 Having but one individual of this genus at our command, 
 we are not prepared to decide upon the question of the valid- 
 ity of both species. The specimen before us answers to 
 Say's characters of G. subulata; and being perfectly satisfied 
 that it belongs to the latter species, we propose to describe it 
 a little more at length than w T as done by its discoverer. 
 
 The entire length, from the tip of the chelicerae to the end 
 of the abdomen, is one inch and a quarter, the abdomen itself 
 forming about one-half of that length. The cephalothorax is 
 composed of three distinct segments ; the anterior one much 
 the largest, giving points of attachment to the parts of the 
 mouth, to the palpi, and the two anterior pairs of legs ; to the 
 second thoracic segment is attached the third pair of legs, 
 and to the third segment the fourth pair. The anterior seg- 
 ment of cephalothorax, seen from above, is subrhomboidal 
 and smooth. At its anterior margin are situated the two 
 ocelli, separated from each other by a deep groove. The 
 chelicerae are very stout, and composed of one single joint 
 densely covered with setose hairs, and terminated each by 
 two spines, one above (finger of some authors,) rigid, and 
 another below (the thumb,) moving vertically against the 
 upper. The latter is compressed, acute, almost rectilinear, 
 and smooth ; the inferior one is subcorneal, curved upwards, 
 acute towards the point, and provided at its base inwardly 
 with two spiny small processes. The palpi are proportion- 
 ally robust, stouter and longer than the three anterior pairs of 
 legs ; somewhat shorter than the fourth pair, but of a stouter 
 
 * Account of an expedition from Pittsburg to the Rocky Mountains, performed 
 in trie years 1819 and '20. Vol. II, 1823, p. 3. 
 
APPENDIX F. AEACHNIDIANS. 261 
 
 appearance, as all the joints, four in number (the maxillas ex- 
 cepted) preserve the same diameter. They are covered on 
 their whole length with hairs similar to those on the chelicerae. 
 The maxillas are subtriangular, provided only with brushes of 
 hairs. The next joint (the joint of the palpi) is very small 
 and triangular ; the second is the longest ; the third is the 
 next in length ; then the fourth, the tip of which exhibits a 
 minute smooth tuberculifbrm knob. The first pair of legs is 
 the most slender of the thoracic appendages, and about the 
 length of the third pair ; the basal joint is quite short ; the 
 second is the shortest of all ; the third is the longest ; the 
 fourth, fifth, and sixth smaller in the order enumerated. The 
 last joint terminates like the palpi, bluntly. This anterior 
 pair of legs is called by some second pair of paljn, upon the 
 ground that their structure is most alike. The three remain- 
 ing pairs of thoracic appendages are seven-jointed, thus com- 
 posed of one joint more than in the first pair and palpi, and 
 furthermore terminated by two minute curved claws. The 
 first, second, and third joints are short, stoutish, and subequal ; 
 the remaining are longer and slenderer, the fourth beino- the 
 longest, and the other diminishing gradually. They are cov- 
 ered upon their whole length with hairs similar to those which 
 cover the palpi, but perhaps less densely so. The abdomen 
 is subovoid, being a Utile depressed ; it is densely hairy above 
 and below, and composed, as usual, of nine segments or 
 annuli . 
 
 Collected on June the 10th. 
 
262 
 
 APPENDIX P.— MYRIAPODS. 
 
 MYRIAPODS. 
 
 BY CHARLES GIRARD. 
 
 1. Scolopendra heros, Girard. 
 
 Zoology, PI. XVIII. 
 
 Spec. char. — Twenty-one pairs of grallatory appendages, 
 composed of five segments of articulations, and a conical ter- 
 minal spine, more or less curved. Back bicarinated; beneath, 
 flat and grooved. Antennas composed of twenty-five joints ; 
 color uniform dark-reddish brown : lighter beneath. 
 
 Description. — The general form of the body is depressed, 
 subconcave above, flat beneath. It is composed of twenty- 
 one annuli, segments or rings, each of which bears one pair 
 of locomotory appendages, (feet.) The middle region of the 
 back presents a slight double carina and last segment. The 
 intermediate area is rather flattened, whilst each running 
 parallel the whole length of the body, very faint on the first 
 side, is gently sloping towards the exterior margin. At the 
 inferior surface, two longitudinal furrows or grooves may be 
 seen extending the whole length of the body, and dividing the 
 abdominal disk into three almost equal parts. The stigmata 
 are transversely elongated, and situated immediately beneath 
 the lateral margin of the dorsal shields of each segment. The 
 insertion of the locomotory appendages takes place imme- 
 diately above the lateral margin of the abdominal shields of 
 each segment. The locomotory appendages are as numerous 
 as the segments of the body — twenty-one pairs constructed 
 alike ; that is to say, composed of five joints and a curved 
 terminal spine. A minute spine may occasionally be seen at 
 the anterior margin of the fourth and fifth joints. The third 
 and fourth joints are longer than the first and second ; the 
 fifth is always the smallest : these organs are tapering rapidly 
 towards their extremity. In the caudal pair, the first and 
 
APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 263 
 
 second articles or joints are longer than the third and fourth ; 
 the first one is moreover, provided with a spiny process along 
 its inner margin. Its general shape and directing distinguishes 
 it, likewise, from all the other pairs. 
 
 The second segment is quite short, the shortest of all, and 
 contrasts strangely with the others, which preserve regular 
 proportions, gradually diminishing from the middle of the 
 length towards both extremities, with but few exceptions. 
 
 The first segment or ring is one of these, being the shortest 
 after the second ; its anterior margin is subcrescentic, the 
 concavity of which receives the cephalic shield or disk (head.) 
 Besides the anterior pair of locomotory appendages, it gives a 
 point of attachment to a pair of robust and two-jointed forceps, 
 functioning as a pair of jaws for seizing and holding the prey. 
 The central piece" is large and subtriangular, the anterior 
 margin of which is denticulated, (the second lip of some 
 authors. That second or external lip (labrum) is formed by 
 the union of two pieces, which are separate in the young, 
 where they constitute a third joint to the forceps jaws, the 
 second lip then being also separate, and existing as a limina 
 already denticulated anteriorly. The next joint is short and 
 stout ; fhe second is a conical and tapering spine, curved in- 
 wardly and perforated, as it is well known, for the passage 
 •of a venomous fluid, not otherwise dangerous. 
 
 The cephalic disk itself, seen from above, is subcircular in 
 shape, projecting slightly between the antennas, and showing 
 upon its surface traces of the dorsal carinas alluded to above. 
 To its inferior surface we find attached two pairs of mandibles 
 and one pair of palpi. In proceeding from outwards inwards, 
 we will find immediately behind the forceps-jaws the palpi, 
 (little feet, sometimes called,) composed of four flattened joints 
 and a minute, curved, and terminal hooks. They are united 
 at their base by the means of two additional central pieces. 
 The second joint is the longest, and slightly bent. The exterior 
 pair of mandibles, the one next to the palpi, is composed of 
 four joints, the first being almost as long as the three remain- 
 ing ones ; the fourth is rounded, presenting an inner concave 
 surface with a sharp terminal margin. They are united upon 
 their middle by a lanceolated ligula. The inner pair of man- 
 dibles is composed of two pieces ; the first irregularly shaped, 
 the second subcircular concave, subcircular and margined 
 anteriorly by small spines, four or five in number, constituting 
 a denticulated margin. 
 
 In the anterior margin of the cephalic disk are inserted the 
 
264 APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 
 
 | 
 
 antennae composed of twenty-five joints gradually dimin- 
 ishing in thickness, and increasing in length towards the 
 extremity, which is filiform. Exteriorly to the antennae, and 
 close to the margin of the disk, are situated the ocelli, four on 
 each side, as usual in the genus, and disposed as represen- 
 ted in figure 5. 
 
 The inferior surface of the last ring differs from the others 
 in having a much smaller shield, and in being provided on 
 each side with a stout, subcorneal spine, directed backwards. 
 
 An immature specimen, one-third of the length of the one 
 figured, has the same number of segments or annuli, the same 
 number of feet, and the same general structure. 
 
 One individual of this species was collected on the 15th of 
 June, at Sweet-water creek ; others were found in July, be- 
 tween the south fork of Red river and Otter creek. 
 
 Plate XVIII, fig. 1, represents Scolopendra heros size of life, 
 seen from above. 
 
 Fig. 2, the head from below. 
 
 Fig. 3, posterior extremity from below. 
 
 Fig. 4, a medial segment to show the attachment of feet. 
 
 Fig. 5, disposition of ocelli on left side. 
 
 2. Julus grnatus, Girard. 
 
 Spec. char. — Ground-color bluish black j segments nar- 
 rowly margined posteriorly with reddish; anterior margin of 
 segments rather blue, whilst the middle is rather black, thus 
 giving the appearance of three rings of color. The anterior 
 portion, which is covered by the articulation, is fulvous. Feet 
 deep chestnut-brown. Antennae rufous at base, blackish at 
 tip. Stigmata not conspicuous ; marked by a series of small, 
 obsolete blackish spots. 
 
 Remarks. — -This species is allied to Julus marginatm of 
 Say, but its body is proportionally much stouter. The ocelli 
 are disposed upon a subtriangular space quite different in 
 shape. The antennae themselves are slenderer in propor- 
 tions. The labrum (upper lip) is also less emarginated than 
 in Julus marginatus, and the marginal punctures much less 
 conspicuous. 
 
 One specimen was collected on the 27th of June. 
 
APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 265 
 
 3. Julus atratus, Girard. 
 
 Spec. char. — Body, feet, and antennae uniform deep black- 
 ish brown ; antennae and feet occasionally reddish, as also the 
 labrum and anterior margin of first segment. Posterior third 
 of each segment of a shining black. Stigmata and lateral 
 striae beneath quite conspicuous. 
 
 Remarks. — Resembles more Julus ovnatus than Julus mar- 
 ginatus in the general proportions of the body, but in the 
 structure of the antennae and labrum comes nearer to Julus 
 marginatum. 
 
 Specimens of this species were collected at Prairie Mer 
 Rouge, Louisiana, by James Fairiej esq., and sent to the 
 Smithsonian Institution. 
 
APPENDIX G. 
 
 BOTANY. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DURING THE EX- 
 PEDITION : BY DR. JOHN TORREY. 
 
 No. 96, St. Mark's Place, New York, 
 
 August 10, 1853. 
 
 Dear Sir : I have examined the collection of plants that 
 you brought from the headwaters of the Red river, towards 
 the Rocky mountains. The flora of this region greatly resem- 
 bles that of the upper portion of the Canadian. It is remark- 
 able that there occur among your plants several species that 
 were first discovered by Dr. James, in Long's Expedition, 
 and have not been found since until now. Your collection is 
 an interesting addition to the geography of North American 
 plants, and serves to mark more clearly the range of many 
 western species. For particular remarks on the rarer plants, 
 and descriptions of the new species, I refer you to the accom- 
 panying list. 
 
 At your request I have had some of the rarer plants drawn 
 and engraved, to illustrate your report to Congress. 
 
 I am, dear sir, 
 
 Yours truly, 
 
 JOHN TORREY. 
 
 Captain R. B. Marcy. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 RANUCULACEvE. 
 
 267 
 
 Clematis Pitcheri, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 10. Witchita Mountains; fl. 
 and fir. July 17. 
 
 Anemone Caroliniana, Walt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 12. Sources of the 
 Trinity River ; May 3. 
 
 Delphinium azureum, Michx. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 32. Main Fork of 
 the Red River ; fl. May 8— June 16. 
 
 PAPAVERACE^E. 
 
 Argemone Mexicana, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 61. C«mmon on the 
 upper waters of the Red River ; May — June 16. 
 
 CRUCIFER.E. 
 
 Vesicaria angustifolia, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 101 ; Gray, PL 
 Lindh. 2, p. 145. Sources of the Trinity River ; fl. and fr. May 3. 
 
 V. stenophylla, Gray, PL Lindh. 2, p. 149 ; and PL Wright. 1, p. 10, and 
 2, p. 13. North Fork of the Red River ; fr. June 14. 
 
 Pithyrjea Wislizeni, Engelm., in Wisliz. inMex., p. 95; Gray, PL Wright. 
 1, p. 10, and 2, p. 14. Abundant on the headwaters of the Red River ; June 
 23— July 14. 
 
 The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy vary considerably in 
 the leaves, which are often nearly entire. The flowers also vary in size ; the 
 petals being sometimes nearly one-third of an inch in length. The silicles are 
 larger than in specimens collected in New Mexico by Mr. Wright and Dr. Ed- 
 wards. They are by no means always deeply emarginate at the base, and some- 
 times they are slightly notched at the summit. 
 
 Streptanthus hyacinthoides, Hook., in Bot. Mag., t. 3516 ; Torr. and 
 Gr., Fl. 1, p. 78 ; Gray, Gen. 111., t. 61. Witchita Mountains to the boun- 
 dary of the Choctaw Nation ; fl. May 31 — June 4. 
 
 CAPPARIDACE.E. 
 
 Polanisia graveolens, R,af. ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 123, and SuppL, p. 
 669. Witchita Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 16. The pods are on a short stipe, 
 and the seeds are more or less rough. 
 
268 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 CARYOPHYLL ACE JE . 
 
 Silene Antirrhina, Linn., Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 191. On the Main 
 Fork of the Red River ; fl. May 8. 
 
 Paronychia Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 170 ; Gray, Pi. Fendl., p. 14. 
 Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22. 
 
 PORTULACACE^. 
 
 Talinum teretifolium, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 365 ; Gray, Gen. 111., t. 98. Mid- 
 dle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22, fr. July 5. 
 
 MALVACE^. 
 
 Malvastrum coccineum, Gray, Gen. 111., t. 121 ; PI. Fendl., p. 24. Malva 
 coccinea, Nutt. Sida coccinea, DC. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 235. North Fork 
 of Red River, &c. 
 
 Callirrhce involucrata, Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 15, and Gen. 111., t. 117. 
 Malva involucrata, Torr. and Gr., FL, p. 226. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. 
 
 May 22. 
 
 C digitata, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 181 ; Gray, 1, c. Fort Belk- 
 nap. 
 
 LINACE.E. 
 
 Linum Berlandieri, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3480 ; Entrelm. in Gray, PI. 
 Wright. 2, p. 25. Cache creek, and Cross-timbers of the Red River ; May. 
 
 L. Boottii, Plauch., in Lond. Jour. Bot 7, p. 475 ; Engelm., 1. c. Witchita 
 Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 17. 
 
 OXALIDACELE. 
 
 Oxalis violacea, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 211. Headwaters of the 
 Trinity River ; April 25. 
 
 O. stricta, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. c. With the preceding. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 269 
 
 GERANIACE^E. 
 
 Geranium Carolinianum, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl, ], p. 207. Headwaters 
 of the Trinity, and on Cache creek ; April — May. 
 
 ZANTHOXYLACE.E. 
 
 - Ptelea trifoliata, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 215 ; /3 mollis. Torr. 
 and Gr., Fl. 1, Suppl., p. 680. Common on the headwaters of the Red River; 
 fr. June 16. 
 
 ANACARDIACEiE. 
 
 Rhus trilobata, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 218; Gray PL Fendl., 
 p. 28. On the Middle and North Forks of the Red river; in fruit June 1-16. 
 
 R. Toxicodendron, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. With the preceding in 
 fruit only. 
 
 VITACEjE. 
 
 Vitis rupertris, Scheele, in Linnsca, 21, p. 591 ; Gray, PI. Lindh., 2, p. 
 165. Witchita Mountains ; abundant. The fruit was immature, but had at- 
 tained nearly its full size in the middle of July. They are said to be ripe in 
 August, when they are about the size of large peas, of a deep purple color, and 
 agreeable to the taste. This species much resembles the summer grape of the 
 Atlantic States. 
 
 SAPINDACEiE. 
 
 Sapindus marginatus, Willd. ; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1, 255 ; Gray, Gen. 
 111., 2, t. 180. Main Fork of Red River. 
 
 This is generally known in Texas and Arkansas by the name of Wild China. 
 It is a tree, and attains the height of 20 feet, with a trunk 10 inches in dia- 
 meter. The wood is of a yellow color. 
 
 POLYGALACE.E. 
 
 Polygala alba, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 87 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, p. 38. P. Bey- 
 richii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 670. On Suydam Creek, North Fork of Red 
 River ; fl. June 6. 
 
270 APPENDIX G-— BOTANY. 
 
 P. incarnata, Linn ; Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 129. Tributaries of the Washita 
 River ; fl. and fr. July 23. This species has not hitherto been found so far 
 
 west. 
 
 KRAMERIACE.E. 
 
 Krameria lanceolata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2 p. 168 ; Gray, Gen. 
 III., 2, t. 185. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on the Middle Fork of the Red 
 River ; fl. May 4-22. 
 
 LEGUMINOSiE. 
 
 Vicia micrantha, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 271. Cache Creek and 
 Middle Fork of Red River ; 11. and fr. May 16-22. 
 
 Rhynchosia TOMENTOSA,"var. volubilis, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 285. Tribu- 
 taries of the Washita River ; fl. July 26. 
 
 Tephrosia Virginiana, Pers. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 295. Witchita 
 Mountains and upper waters of Red River ; fl. June 4, fr. July 23. 
 
 Glyctrrhiza'lepidota, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 106 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. 
 Main and North Forks of the Red River ; fl. June 6, fr. June 26. 
 
 Indigofera leptosefala, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. With the 
 preceding ; fl. May 26-June 6. 
 
 Psoralea esculenta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475, t. 22. Mouth of Cache Creek and 
 
 Witchita Mountains ; May. 
 
 P. Argophtlla, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475 ; Hook. Fl. Bor.— Am. 2, p. 136, t. 53. 
 North and Middle Forks of Red River ; fl. May 26-31. 
 
 P. floribunda, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl 1, p. 300. Sources of the Red 
 River ; fl. June 2-9. 
 
 Petalostemon violaceum, Michx., Fl. 2, p. 50, t. 37, f. 2 ; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 1, p. 310. With the preceding ; June 2-7. 
 
 Petalostemon gracile, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 92; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 1, p. .309. Cache Creek ; May 18. 
 
 P. multiflorum, Nutt., 1. c. ; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. On the Witchita Mount- 
 ains ; fl. and fr. July 15. 
 
APPENDIX a. BOTANY. 271 
 
 Petalostemon villosum, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 85 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 310. 
 Cache creek ; June 14 ; flowers not yet expanded. 
 
 Dalcba aurea, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 308 ; Gray, 
 PI. Wright. 2, p. 41. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 5. 
 
 D. lanata, Spreng. Syst. 3, p. 327. D. lanuginosa, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 1, p. 307. Big Witchita and on the Main Fork of the Red River ; fl. 
 June 27. 
 
 D. laxsflora, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 741 ; Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 1, p. 307. D. pencillata, Moricand, PI. Nouv. Amer., t. 45. Common on 
 all the upper waters of the Red River ; May- July. 
 
 Amorpha canescens, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 92 ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 306. 
 Witchita Mountains ; fl. May 30. 
 
 Astragalus Nuttal-lianus, DC. Prodr. 2, p. 289 ; Torr. and Gr. 2, p. 234. 
 Upper waters of the Red River ; fl. and fr. May 5. The flowers are larger than 
 usual in this species. 
 
 A. cartocarpus, Ker. Bot. Reg., t, 176 ; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 331. Head- 
 waters of the Trinity. May 2 ; in flower only. 
 
 Oxytropis Lamberti, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 740 ; Torr. and Gr.', FL 1, p. 339, 
 With the preceding; fl. in May. 
 
 Desmodium sessilifolium, Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 363. Witchita Mountains. 
 The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy are in a state of remark- 
 able fasciation. The branches of the panicle are coalesced (sometimes almost 
 to the summit) into a broad flat mass, which is covered with sessile flowers and 
 fruit. 
 
 Clitoria Mariana, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 290 ; Torr., FL N. York, 
 1, p. 163, t. 24. On the Washita ; fl. July 27. 
 
 Baptisia australis, R. Br. ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 385. Sources of the 
 Red River : fl. and fr. June 6-10. 
 
 B. LEucopHiEA, Nutt., Gen. 1, p, 282 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. Common on the 
 upper tributaries of the Red River ; fl. April, fr. May. 
 
 Hofpmanseggia Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 293 ; Gray, PL Lindh. 2, 
 p. 178. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. June 14-24. 
 
272 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 Cassia Cham.ecrista, Linn. , Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 395. Tributaries of 
 the Washita ; fl. July 22. 
 
 Schrankia uncinata, Willd.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 400. Mouth of 
 Medicine River, &c. ; fl. April. 
 
 Acacia lutea, Leavenw. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 403. On the Witchita 
 
 Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 14. The leaves are remarkably sensitive. 
 
 ROSACEA. 
 
 Sanguisorba annua, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr,, Fl. 1, p. 429. Pottrium an- 
 nuuin, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 1, p. 198. 
 
 ONAGRACEiE. 
 
 (Enothera ruombipetala, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 493 ; Kunze, 
 in Linnasa, 20, p. 55. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. June 24. 
 
 CE. sinuata, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 294. Witchita Mountains and 
 upper tributaries of Red River ; May- June. 
 
 CE. speciosa, Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 119 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. c. 
 Big Witchita ; fl. May 8. Middle Fork of the Red River ; fr. June 21. 
 
 OE. lavandul.ef olia, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501 ; Hook. Lond. Jour. Bot. 
 6, p. 223 ; Gray, PL Wright. 1, p. 72. Big Witchita and North Fork of Red 
 River ; fl. May 8, fr. June 6. The leaves in all our specimens of this rare spe- 
 cies are nearly glabrous, about one inch and a half long, and 2-3 lines wide, 
 with the apex rather acute. The fruit is well described by Hooker, (1. c.) 
 
 CE. serulata, Nutt., Gen. 1, p. 246; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501. Com- 
 mon on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; May- June. 
 
 Gaura coccinea, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 249 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 518. North 
 Fork of Red River ; fl. June 6. 
 
 G. villosa, Torr. Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 200; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 
 518 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, p. 73. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 14. The 
 ripe fruit is not always reflexed. It is (including the stripe) about 7 lines long, 
 ovate, strongly tetraquetrous, abruptly contracted at the base, and 2-4-seeded ; 
 the seeds more or less imbricated. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANYo 273 
 
 LOASACEiE, 
 
 Mentzelia nuda, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 535 ; Gray, PL FendL, p. 47, and 
 PI. Wright. 1, p. 73 ; Bartonia nuda, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 297. Witchita Mount- 
 ains ; fl. June 22. 
 
 CUCURBITACEJL 
 
 Cucurbita perennis, Gray, PI. Lindh. 2, p. 193 ; and Wright. PL 2, p. 60. 
 Cfatidissima, H. B. and Kunth? Cucumis perennis, James, in Long% Exped, 
 2, p. 20 ; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 543. North Fork of the Platte ; fl. June 6. 
 Although the cultivated plant seems to be dioecious not unpleasant to the smell, 
 Mr. Wright says, (vide Gray, 1. c.) that in a wild state it is " certainly monoe- 
 cious, and exhales an unpleasant smell when bruised ;" so that it does not differ 
 from the description of C.foetidissima, except that the latter is said by Kunth to 
 be an annual, which may be a mistake. The flowers are as large as those of the 
 common pumpkin. 
 
 Sictdium, sp. nov? Fruit 1| inch in diameter, globose, sessile. Seeds ^ 
 larger than in S. Lindheimeri, and more turgid. On the Main Fork of Red 
 River ; fr. July 11. 
 
 GROSSULACEJL 
 
 Ribes aureum, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 164 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 552. North 
 Fork of Red River ; fr. June 4. 
 
 UMBELLIFERyE. 
 
 Ertngium diffusum, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 207 ; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 1, p. 603. Witchita Mountains ; fl. June 14. This rare species has not 
 been found before, since it was first discovered by Dr. James, more than thirty 
 years ago. It is rather doubtful whether it is diffuse, except, perhaps, when it 
 is old. The specimens of Captain Marcy are less branched than the original one 
 from which the description in the Flora of North America was drawn. 
 
 Leptocaulis echinatus, Nutt., in DC. Prodr. 4, p. 107 ; Torr. and Gr., FL 
 1, p. 609. Headwaters of the Trinity ; April 2. 
 
 PolytjEnia Nuttatlii, DC. Umb , p. 53, t. 13, and Prodi. 4, p. 196 ; Torr. 
 and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 533. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. June 1. Witchita 
 Mountains ; fr. July 16. 
 
 18 
 
274 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 Euryt^enia Texana, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. p. 633. Main Fork of Red 
 River ; fr. June 11. This plant has hitherto been found only by the late Mr. 
 Drummond, who discovered it in Texas more than twenty years ago. It is an 
 annual, about two feet high ; the fine stride of the stem and branches are rough- 
 ened upward, with minute points. The umbels are compound and spreading. 
 Flowers minute. Petals white, broadly orbicular, waved on the margin, deeply 
 emarginate, with an inflexed point. Fruit about one-third larger than in Drum- 
 mond 's Texan specimen. 
 
 RUBIACE^. 
 
 Gldenlandia angustifolia, Gray, PI. Wright. 2, p. 68. Houstonia angus- 
 tifolia, Mich. Fl. 1, p. 85 ; Hedyotis stenophylla, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 41. 
 Tributaries of the Main Fork of Red River ; fl. May — June. 
 
 VALERIANCE^. 
 
 Fedia radiata, 0. leiocarpa, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p, 52. Upper Red 
 River. 
 
 COMPOSITE. 
 
 Liatris squarrosa, Willd. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 68 ; Sweet Fl. Gard., 
 t. 44. Tributaries of the Washita River ; fl. July 22—24. 
 
 L. acidota, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh., p. 10 ; Gray PI. Wright. 1, p. 
 83. L. mucronata, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 70 ; not of DC. On the Wa- 
 shita ; July 27. 
 
 Solidago odori, Nutt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 219. Witchita Moun- 
 tains ; July 16. 
 
 S. Missouriensis, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 7, p. 32, and Trans. Amer. 
 Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 327 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 222. With the prece- 
 ding. 
 
 Artemisa filifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 211 ; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 2, 417. Upper tributaries of the Red River ; May. An abundant shrub, 
 of a grayish white aspect, with numerous branches, and crowded, slender 
 leaves. This is one of the numerous species called sage by the hunters. It is 
 found from the plains of the Upper Missouri to the Valley of the Rio Grande, 
 and west to the Colorado. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 275 
 
 Achillea millefolium, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., PI. 2, p. 409. With the 
 preceding. It is the woolly form that almost exclusively occurs west of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 Zinnia grandiflora, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 348 ; 
 Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 298 ; Torr. in Emory's Rep., t. 4, Gray, PI. Fendl., 
 p. 81. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 2. 
 
 Riddellia tagetina, Nutt. 1. c, p. 371; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 362; 
 Torr. in Emory's Rep., t. 5 ; Gray, PI. Fendl. p. 93. Main Fork of Red 
 River ; June 25 — July 8. The pappus is more hyaline and acute than in speci- 
 mens from other localities in my herbarium. It is also slightly lacerate 
 at the tip, showing something of a transition to R. arachnoidea. The leaves, 
 too, are more woolly and broader than in the more common form of the 
 plant. 
 
 Rudbeceia hirta, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 307. Witchita 
 Mountains ; fl. June 1. Is R. bicolor distinct from this species? Dr. Gray re- 
 marks, (Plant. Lindh. 2. p. 227,) that in cultivation, the purple brown of the 
 rays is commonly obsolete or wanting in all the later heads. 
 
 Echinacea angustifolia, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 554 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 
 306. Witchita Mountains ; June 1. 
 
 Lepachts columnaris, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 315. Rudbeckia columnaris, 
 Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 575. Common on all the tributaries of the Red River : 
 June. 
 
 Helianthus petiolaris, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 115 ; Sweet 
 Brit. FL Gard. (n. ser.) t. 75. With the preceding. 
 
 Gaililardia pulchella, Foug. ; DC. Prodr. 5, p. 652 ; Torr. and Gr., 
 Fl. 2, p. 366. Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; May — 
 June. 
 
 Palafoxia callosa, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 369. Stevia callosa, Nutt. in 
 Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 121 ; Bart. Fl. Amer. Sept., t. 46. ftfoliis latioribus. 
 Tributaries of the Washita ; June. 
 
 Htmenopappcs corymbosus, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 372. H. Engclmmmi- 
 anus, Kunth. 
 
276 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 Actinella linearifolia, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 383. Hymenoxys lineari- 
 folia, Hook. Witchita mountains ; May 30. 
 
 tsHALLiA caespitosa, Nutt. in DC. Prodr. 5, p. 680 ; Hook. Bot. 
 t. 3704; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 391. Headwaters of the Trinity river; 
 May. 
 
 Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 310 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, 
 p. 93. Jl. Riddellii, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 2, p. 189. Egletes ramosissima, Gray, 
 PI. Fendl., p. 71. Little Witchita and upper tributaries of Red River ; May — 
 June. The tube of the disk flowers is indurated in all the specimens. 
 
 Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. and Gr. s in Nutt. Trans. Am. Phil. 
 Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 343 ; and Fl. 2, p. 283. Witchita Mountains ; May 30. 
 
 Melampodium cinereum, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 518; Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 78: 
 M ramosissimum, DC. 1. c, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 2, p. 271. M. lencanthum, Torr. 
 and Gr. 1. c. Cache Creek ; June 21. A variable species. 
 
 Chrtsopsis canescens, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 256 ; Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 
 77. Main Fork of Red River ; July 8. 
 
 C. hispida, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 22, (under Diplopappus ;) DC. Prodr. 
 7, p. 279 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. 
 
 Centaurea Americana, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 117 ; Bart. Fl. 
 Amer. — Sept., t. 50 ; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 453. Tributaries of the upper 
 Red River ; June — July. 
 
 Cirsium undulatum, Spreng.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 456. With the pre- 
 ceding. 
 
 Ptrrhopappus Carolinianus, DC. Prodr. 7. p. 144 ; Nutt. in Trans. Amer. 
 Phil Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 430. Headwaters of the Trinity and on Cache Creek : 
 
 May. 
 
 Lygodesmia juncea, Don.; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 295, t. 103; Torr. 
 and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 484. Upper tributaries of the Red River; June. The lower 
 branches are covered at the base with tubers or galls, about the size of cherry- 
 stones, produced by the stings of insects. 
 
APPENDIX G.- — BOTANY. 277 
 
 L. aphylla, DC. Prodr. 7, p. 198 ; Torr. and Gr., PI. 2, p. 485. Texana, 
 Torr. and Gr. 1. c. North Fork of Red River ; June 16. The numerous radi- 
 cal leaves are 3-4 inches long, runcinately pinnatifid. Achenia angular, dis- 
 tinctly tapering upward. 
 
 ASCLEPIADACEJL 
 
 Ascelpias tueerosa, Linn.; Michx Fl. 1, p. 117 ; Sweet. Brit. Fl. Gard., 
 {ser. 2,) t. 24 ; Decaisne, in DG Prodr. 8, p. 567. Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 
 123. Upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. The leaves vary from 
 ■ovate and amplexicaul to narrowly linear. 
 
 A. speciosa, Torr. in Ann. Lye. 2, p. 218, and in Fremont's First R.ep., p. 
 95. A. Douglasii, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 53, t. 142 ; Decaisne, 1. c. 
 Witchita Mountains to the upper tributaries of the Red River ; fl. June — 
 July ; flowers larger than in any other North American species of Asclepias. 
 
 Acerates paniculata, Decaisne, L c. p. 521 ; Asclepias viridis, Walt., FL 
 Carol, p. 107? Jlnantherix paniculatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
 (n. ser.) 5, p. 202. Cache Creek and Middle Fork of Red River, fl. May 16, 
 fr. June. 
 
 A. decumbens, Decaisne, 1. c. Jlnantherix decumbens, Nutt. 1. c. Cache 
 Creek ; fl. May 17. The follicles oblong, not muricate. 
 
 A. amgustifolia, Decaisne, 1. c. Polyotus angustifolius, Nutt. 1. c. Branch 
 of Cache Creek ; fl. May 17. 
 
 A. viridiflora, Ell. sk. 1, p. 317 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 124 ; Decaisne, 
 L c. Asclepias viridiflora, Pursh. Fl. 1, p. 181 ; Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. 2, p. 53, t. 
 143. North Fork of Red River ; fl. June 4. The specimens collected by Cap- 
 tain Marcy belong to the broad-leaved forms of the plant. 
 
 Enslenia albida, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 164, and in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
 (n. ser.) 5, p. 203 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 518. Main Fork of Red 
 River ; not in flower. 
 
 APOCYNACEiE. 
 
 Apoctnum cannabinum, Linn. ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Amer. 2, p. 51, t. 139 ; 
 Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 439 ; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. — . Common on 
 the upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. 
 
278 APPENDIX G. BOTANT?. 
 
 Amsonia salicifolia, Pursh, FL 1, p. 184 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p„ 
 385. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 16. This is perhaps only a variety of Jl. 
 angustifolia, Michx., and both may not be specifically distinct from A. tahernm- 
 niontana, * 
 
 GENTIAN AGE. 
 
 Sabbatia campestris, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5 ? p. 167 ; 
 Griseb., in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 50 ; Engelm. and Gr., PI. Lindh. 1, p. 15. On 
 the Washita ; fl. and fr. July 27. 
 
 Erythr;ea Beyrichii, Torr. and Gr., FL 2, ined. E. trichantka 0. angusti- 
 folia, Griseb, 1, c. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. July 26. 
 
 Eustoma Ru3shlianum, Don. ; Griseb. in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 51. Lisianthus 
 glaucifolius, Nutt. 1. c. L. Russelianus, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3626. Washita 
 River to the upper tributaries of the Red River ; July. 
 
 CONVGLVULACELE. 
 
 Evoi.vulus pilosus, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 174, (as a synonym) ; Trans. Amer. 
 Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 195. E, argentens, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 187; Choisy, in 
 DC. Prodr. 9, p. 443 ; not of R. Br. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22. 
 Choisy doubtingly refers Brown's plant to JE. hirsutus, Lam., and therefore has 
 adopted Pursh 's name. 
 
 Convolvulus lobatus, Engelm., and Gray, PL Lindh. 1, p. 44 (in a note.) 
 C. hastatus, Nutt.. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc (n. ser.) 5, p. 194 ; not of Thunb, 
 C. Mittallii, Torr. in Emory's Rep., p. 149. Middle Fork of Red River ; May 
 22 — June 6. This species has much the appearance of C. althseoides, Boss. 
 
 C. (Ipomcea) leptophyllus, Torr., in Frem. First Report, p. 94, and in 
 Emory's Report, p. 148, t. 11. With the preceding, 
 
 C. (Ipomcea) shumardianus, (sp. nov. ;) caule gracili subpubescente ; foliis 
 ovato-lanceolatis sursum angustatis basi acutis ; pedunculis petiolas Iongioribus 
 sepalis ovatis obtusis. Witchita Mountains ; fl. July 17 ; flowers as large as in 
 C. panduratus, which the plant much resembles, but differs in the form of the 
 leaves, and in the broader and more obtuse sepals. Named in honor of Dr. G. 
 C. Shumard, the botanical collector of the expedition. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 279 
 
 SOLANACE.E. 
 
 Solanum flavidum, Toit. Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 227 ; Dunal in DC. 
 Prodr. 13, p. 375. Cache Creek ; May. This species is not suffrutescent, as 
 is stated in the original description, but probably annual. Mr. Wright found it 
 on the Rio Grande. The prickles are sometimes almost wanting. 
 
 S. Carolinense, Linn. ; Torr., Fl. N. York 2, p. 105; Dunal, 1. c, p. 305. 
 Witchita Mountains and upper tributaries of the Red River ; May- June. 
 
 Physalis pumila, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 193. With 
 the preceding ; May- June. This species has been overlooked by Dunal in 
 DC. Prodr. 
 
 SCROPHULARIACEiE. 
 
 Castilleja purpurea, G. Don. ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 531. Euchro- 
 ma purpurea, Nutt., 1. c, p. 180. Sources of the Trinity River ; May. 
 
 Penstemon grandiflorus, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, and Gen. 2, p. 53; 
 Benth., 1. c, p. 322. P. Bradhurii, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 738. North Fork of Red 
 River ; fl. June 3. The pedicels vary from three lines to nearly an inch in 
 length. 
 
 P. ambiguus, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 228 ; Benth., 1. c, p. 321, 
 Witchita Mountains; June. This rare and well characterized species has lately 
 been found by Mr. Wright on the upper Rio Grande. 
 
 P. CoBiEA, Nutt., 1. c. ; Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3465; Benth., 1. c s p. 326. 
 Upper tributaries of the Red River ; May-June. 
 
 P. pubescens, Soland. ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 35 ; Benth., 1. c. Head- 
 waters of the Trinity. Smoothish, with narrower and more entire leaves than 
 usual. 
 
 Gerardia grandiflora, Benth., Comp. Bot. Mag., 1, p. 206. Dasystmna 
 Drummondi, Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 521. On the Washita ; fl. July 27. 
 
280 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 LABIATE. 
 
 Monarda aristata, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 186; 
 Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 363. Main Fork of Red River ; May 24-25. Nut- 
 tall says that this species is sometimes perennial ; but all our specimens seem to 
 be annual. A variety was found on Cache Creek, in which the teeth of the 
 calyx are aristate from a broad base, and strongly hispid-ciliate. The corolla is 
 not spotted, as in the ordinary form. 
 
 M. punctata, Linn. ; Benth., 1. c. ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 59. M. lutea, 
 Michx., Fl. 1, p. 16. North and Middle Forks of Red River ; May-June. A 
 dwarfish and annual form, in which the corolla is scarcely spotted, was found in 
 the same region. 
 
 Teucrium Cubense, Linn. ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 578. T. lacinia- 
 tum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 231. Cache creek and Middle Fork 
 of Red River ; Ma) r . This species was incorrectly described by me as " fruiti- 
 culose " in the work quoted. 
 
 Scutellaria resinosa, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 232 ; Benth., in 
 DC. Prodr. 12, p. 427. Cache Creek and Sweetwater Creek ; May 18- June 9. 
 
 S. parvula, Michx., Fl. l,p. 12; Benth., 1. c: Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 71. 
 S. ambigua, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 37. 
 
 VERBENACEiE. 
 
 Lippia cuneifolia, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 234, (under 
 ma.) Witchita Mountains, and on the Washita ; June 1-27. Schauer has 
 overlooked this species, in his revision of Verbenacect for DC. Prodr. 
 
 Verbena bipinnatifida, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 49 ; Schauer, 
 in DC. Prodr. 11, p. 553. Glandularia bipinnatifida, Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil. 
 2, p. 123, and in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 184. Sources of the Trinity 
 and upper tributaries of Red River ; May-June. 
 
 BORAGINACE.E. 
 
 Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt., in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 190 ; 
 DC. Prodr. 9, p. 559. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. June 23. I am now con- 
 vinced that my E. grandijlora (Emory's Report, p. 147) is an unusually large- 
 flowered state of the present species. The plant is abundant on the Upper Rio 
 Grande. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 281 
 
 Eritrichium Jamesii. Myosotis suffruticosct, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 
 2, p. 225 ; DC. Prodr. 10, p. 114. North Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. June 14. 
 This plant had not been found, till Captain Marcy collected it, since it was dis- 
 covered by Dr. James, in Long's Expedition. It is a genuine Eritrichium, but 
 can hardly be referred to any one of De Candolle's sections of that genus. My 
 description (1. c.) was drawn from old and imperfect specimens, the stems of 
 which were indurated at the base so as to appear suffrutescent. As more com- 
 plete specimens show the plant to be herbaceous, the former specific name is 
 not appropriate. The allied Fendlerian species No. 636 (E. multicaule Torr. 
 Mss.) is very hispid and canescent, with spreading hairs, and throws up several 
 stems from a thick root or caudex. Leaves linea-spatulate and obtuse. Flow- 
 ers on conspicuous pedicels. Fructiferous calyx broadly ovate, nearly erect ; 
 the segments ovate-lanceolate and closed over the fruit. Nutlets truncate at 
 the summit, very smooth and shining. 
 
 POLEMONIACE^l. 
 
 Phlox pilosa, Linn.; Benth, in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 305. Sources of the Trini- 
 ty ; May. 
 
 primulacej:. 
 
 Dodecatheon Meadia, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 136; DC. Prodr. 8, p. 56. 
 Sources of the Trinity ; fl. May. 
 
 SANTALACEvE. 
 
 Comandra umbellata, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 157 ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 
 139, t. 79, f. A ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 160. Thesium umbellatum, Linn. 
 Tributaries of the Red River ; May. There are few plants that have a wider 
 range in latitude and longitude than this. 
 
282 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 
 
 EUPHORBIACEiE. 
 
 Euphorbia corollata, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, 
 p. 175, t. 99. On the Washita ; July. 
 
 E. marginata, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 224. 
 Main Fork of Red River ; July 8. Upper part of the stem hairy. 
 
 E. helioscopia, Linn.; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 174, (excl. syn. Pursh;) 
 Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 405. Headwaters of the Trinity ; fl. May. 
 
 Stillingia lanceolata, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 176. 
 S. sylvatica 0. salicifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. Middle Fork 
 of Red River ; fl. June 4. 
 
 Hendecandra Texensis, Klotsch in Erich. Arch. (1841) 1, p. 252 ; Engel. 
 and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 53. Croton muricatum, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. 
 soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 153. H. multiflora, Torr. in Frem. First Rep., p. 96. Mid- 
 dle Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. June 22. 
 
 Gynamblosis monanthogtna. Engelmannia Nuttalliana, Klotsch, 1. c. 
 Croton monanthogynum, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 215. C. ellipticum, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 
 235, (excl. syn.;) Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. Main Fork of Red 
 River ; June 24. The Engelmannia of Klotsch, which is based on Croton ellip- 
 ticum of Nuttall, must give place to the earlier genus of the same name of Torr. 
 and Gray. I propose for it a manuscript name given to the plant many years 
 ago, when revising the Euphorbiaceaz of the United States. Klotsch is wrong 
 in referring Croton monanthogynum to Hendecandra maritima. In the young 
 specimens of Captain Marcy all the staminate flowers are 8-10 androus : and the 
 later flowers are not unfrequently hexandrous. The petals and sepals vary from 
 three to five. 
 
 Tragia ramosa, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. T. angustifolia, 
 Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 172. T. brevispica, Engel. and 
 Gray, PL Lindh. 1, p. 54. North Fork of the Red River ; June. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 283 
 
 Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Engel. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 26. Jatropha 
 stimulosa, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 216 ; Ell. Sk. 2, p. 649. Cache Creek ; May 17. 
 
 PLANTAGENACEiE. 
 
 Plantago Virginica, Linn.; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. 16. Headwaters of 
 the Trinity, fl. May. 
 
 P. gnaphaloides, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 100 ; Hook. Fl. Bor.— Am. 2, p. 124; 
 Decaisne in DC. Prodr. 13, (Sact. 1,) p. 713. Mouth of the Big Medicine 
 River. 
 
 POLYGQNACEiE. 
 
 Eriogonum longifolium, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
 164 ; Benth. Eriog. in Linn. Trans. 17, page 406. Witchita Mountains ; June. 
 
 CHENOPODIACE.E. 
 
 Chenopodium subspicatum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 199? Middle Fork of Red 
 River. The specimens are without either flowers or fruit. Annual, diffuse, 
 and much branched ; clothed with whitish furfuraceous scales. Leaves con- 
 spicuously petiolate, broadly rhombic ovate, with one or two coarse teeth on 
 each side. 
 
 Obione canescens, Moq. Chenop., p. 74 ; and DC. Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 
 113 ; Torr., in Stansbury's Report, p. 395. 0. occidentalis, Moq. 1. c. Calli- 
 gonium canescens, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 370. Jitriplcx canescens, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 197. 
 Common on the upper tributary of the Red River. 
 
 NYCTAGINACEiE. 
 
 Oxybaphus angustifolius, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 237 ; Choisy, 
 in DC, Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 433. Calymenia angusti 'folia, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 
 1813, and Gen. 1, p. 26. Upper tributaries of Red River ; June. 
 
 O. nyctagineus, Torr., 1. c. ; Choisy, 1. c. Mlionia nyctaginea, Michx., Fl. 
 1, p. 100. Calymenia corymbosa, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
 p. 178; not Mirabilis corymbosa, Cav., in which the involucrum is one-flowered. 
 With the preceding ; May 28. 
 
284 APPENDIX G-- — EOT ANY. 
 
 O. Hirsutus, Sweet ; Hook. Fl. Bor.-Amer. 2, p. 124 ; Choisy, 1. c. Mlio- 
 nia hirsuta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 728. With the preceding. V . Stem erect, 2-3 
 feet high, sparingly branched ; viscously pubescent ; leaves 2-3 inches long, 
 and 1-1| inch wide, on very short petioles, nearly entire. Flowers in a long, 
 loose terminal and naked panicle ; involucre 3-flowered, rotate-companulate. 
 Fruit fusiform, oblong, 5-angled. As in most of the Nydaginacece, this plant 
 abounds in cells filled with raphides. These are so abundant in the liber of the 
 root, that they form a layer of a silvery white color. 
 
 Abronia mellifera, Dougl., in Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 2879 ; Choisy, 1. c. 
 Cache Creek ; fl. and fr. May 18. The specimens in the collection agree exact- 
 ly with Douglas's plant collected in California, and named by Sir William 
 Hooker. 
 
 CUPULIFERJE. 
 
 Qdercus undulata, Torr., in Ann. Lye, 2, p. 248, t. 4. Abundant on the 
 upper tributaries of the Red River. Stems 1-2 feet long, from a thick woody 
 base, sparingly branched above. Leaves oblong, two inches or more in length, 
 undulate, and furnished with 1-3 rather obtuse and scarcely mucronate teeth 
 on each side, densely and softly pubescent underneath, nearly smooth above, 
 thick and somewhat coriaceous. 
 
 CONIFERiE. 
 
 Juniperus Virginiana, Linn.; Michx. f. Sylv. 2, p. 353, t. 155 ; Torr., Fl. 
 N. York, 2, p. 235. J. sabina, Hook., Fl. Bor.-Am. 2, p. 166. Middle Fork 
 of Red River. 
 
 HYPOXIDACE.E. 
 
 Hypoxis erecta, Linn.; Bart , Fl. N. Amer., 1, t. 35, f. 1; Torr., Fl. N. 
 York, 2, p. 289. Headwaters of the Trinity River ; May. 
 
 COMMELYNACEiE. 
 
 Commelyna angustifolia, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 53; Torr., Fl. N. 
 York, 2, p. 332. North Fork of Red River ; May-June. 
 
 Tradescantia virginica, Linn.; Bot. Mag., t. 105; Bart. 1. c, t. 41; 
 Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 81 ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 333. Abundant on the up- 
 per tributaries of Red River ; May-June ; extremely variable in pubescence, 
 and in the breadth of the leaves. 
 
APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 
 
 IRIDACEvE. 
 
 Sisyrinchium Bermudiana, Linn.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 290. Head- 
 waters of the Trinity ; May . 
 
 Nemastylis acuta ; with the preceding-. 
 
 LILIACE.E. 
 
 Scilla esculenta, Ker. Bot. Mag-., t. 1574. Phalangium esculentum, 
 Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, Gen. 1, p. 219. P. Quamash, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 226, 
 Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 
 
 Allium Canadense, Kalm ; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 223 ; Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 450 ; 
 Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 308, On Cache Creek ; fl. May 14. 
 
 A. ochroleucum, Nutt. Trans, Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 156; not of 
 Waldst. and Kit. Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 
 
 A. reticulatum, Fras ? Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 435. Jl. angulosum, fi. lenchor- 
 hizum, Nutt. 1. c. ? Common on the tributaries of Red River, Bulb usually 
 covered with dark reticulated coats, but sometimes na.ked. 
 
 MELANTHACEiE. 
 
 Amianthium Nuttalii, Gray, in Ann. Lye, N. York, 4, p. 123. Helonias 
 angustifolia, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 154. Jlmiantan- 
 thus, Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 181, Headwaters of the Trinity ; May, 
 
 CYPERACE^S. 
 
 Cyperus Schweinitzii, Torr. Cyp., p. 276; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 343. C, alter- 
 niflorus, Schwein., in Long's 2d Exped., 2, p. 381 (not of R. Br.) Middle and 
 North Forks of Red River ; May-June. 
 
 C. Strigosus, Linn,; Torr., Cyp., p. 261 ; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 340, t. 136, 
 Witchita Mountains ; July. 
 
 Cyperus acuminatus, Torr. and Hook., in Torr. Cyp. Suppl. Witchita 
 Mountains ; July 15. 
 
286 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 
 
 Fimbristylis spadicea, Vahl, Enum, 2, p. 294 ; Torr. Cyp., p. 346 ; Kunth, 
 Enum. 2, p. 237 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 360. Headwaters of the Trinity ; 
 
 May. 
 
 Cares Muhlenbergii, Schk. Car. 2, p. 12, f. 178 ; Schwein. and Torr. 
 Car., p. 304 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 374. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on 
 Cache Creek ; May- June. 
 
 C. festucacea, Schk. Car. f. 173 ; Carey, in Gray's Bot. N. States, p. 545. 
 C. straminea. var. festucacea, Torr. 1. c. With the preceding. 
 
 GRAMINEiE. 
 
 Phalaris angusta, Nees ; Trin. Ic. Gram. t. 78 ; Kunth, Gram. 2, p. 32. 
 P. occidentalism Nutt., in Trans. Anier. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 144. On 
 Cache Creek ; May 16. This plant is certainly P. angusta of Trinius, of 
 which I have specimens named by that distinguished botanist. It appears, 
 however, scarcely to differ from P. microstaclya, DC. 
 
 Paspalum ljeve, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 44 ; Trin. Panic. Gen., p. 160 ; Torr., Fl. 
 N. York, 2, p. 421. Main Fork of Red River ; June. 
 
 Panicum pauciflorum, Ell. Sk. 1, p. 120 ; Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 613. 
 Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 
 
 P. reticulatum, (n. sp.;) culmo geniculate erecto subsimplici ; foliis vagin- 
 isque laxe pilosis ; panicula obionga contracta, ramulis racemosis paucifloris ; 
 spiculis obovatis acutiusculis gTabris breviter pedicellatis muticis ; glumis valde 
 inaequalibus ; flore neutro bivalvi ; palea inferiore (ut in gluma superiora) 
 7-costulata reticulata, flore hermaphrodite transverse ruguloso. On the Main 
 Fork of Red River ; July. Nos, 2090 and 2091, Wright's Coll. N. Mex, 
 1851-52, are glabrous and more robust forms of this species. 
 
 P. obtusum, (H. B. K. ?) spicis 5-7 racemosim dispositis erectis ; spiculis 
 geminis subimbricatis unilateralibus muticis obovatis obtusis glabris ; glumis 
 Eequalibus multinervosis ; flore inferiore triandro bipaleaceo ; flore hermaphro- 
 dite subtilissime longitudinaliter striato subnitido. — H. B. and Kunth, Nov. 
 Gen. 1, p. 98? Tributaries of the Washita. Plant glabrous and glaucous, 
 about 18 inches long. Raehis narrowly linear, very flexuous ; nerves of the 
 glumes green. Near P. obtusum, H. B. K., but differs in the nearly equal 
 glumes, &c. No. 2092 Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, is exactly our 
 plant. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 287 
 
 Aristida fasciculata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 154 ; Kunth, 
 Enum. 2, p. 196. A. purpurea, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
 p. 145. Middle Fork of Red River ; May-June. 
 
 Agrostis (Sporobolus) airoides, Torr, in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 151. 
 With the preceding. The axils of the panicle are nearly glabrous in Captain 
 Marcy's specimens. 
 
 Calamagrostis gigantea, Nutt. 1. c., p. 143. Middle Fork of Red River 
 June 23. 
 
 Chloris verticillata, Nutt. 1. c. With the preceding ; June 25. An ele- 
 gant grass, near C. alba, Presl. and Torr. in Emory's Rep. p. 153. 
 
 Bouteloua racemosa, Lag. Var. Cienc. (1805) p. 141 ; Torr. in Emory's 
 Rep., p. 154 ; not of Torr. Fl. N. York. Dinebra curtipendula, DC? Kunth, 
 Syn. PI. Eq. 1, p. 281 ; excl. syn. Michx. Eutriana curtipendula, Trin. Fund. 
 p. 161 (in part ;) Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 280, and Suppl. p, 233; excl. syn. Michx, 
 and Willd. Main Fork of Red River ; July. The detailed description of this 
 species by Kunth, 1. c, (drawn from a Mexican specimen collected by Hum- 
 boldt) shows that the Chloris curtipendula of Michaux (Bouteloua curtipendula,, 
 Torr.) is a distinct species, as indicated in Emory's Report, 1. c, 
 
 Chondrosium oligostachyum. Atheropogon oligostachyum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p, 
 78 ; Torr. in Sill. Jour. 4, p. 58. Eutriana ? oligostachya, Kunth. Gram, 1, p. 
 96, ex. Enum. 2, p. 282. Main Fork of Red River ; July 2. 
 
 C. papillosum. Jltheropogon papillosum, Engelm. in Sill. Jour. 46, p. 104.. 
 With the preceding, of which it is perhaps only a variety. The species of 
 Chondrosium and Bouteloua are known by the name of Grama Grasses in New 
 Mexico and Texas. 
 
 Pleuraphis Jamesii, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 148, t. 10 ; Kunth, 
 Enum. 1, p. 285. Main Fork of Red River; July. Kunth (1. c.) asks whether 
 this is not Hymenotheceium quinquesetem of Lagasca ; but the brief description 
 of that author (in Gen. et. Sp. PL Nov. 1816) does not agree with our 
 plant. 
 
288 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 
 
 Sesleria dactyloides, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 65; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 323; Torr 
 in Emory's Report, p. 323, t. 10. Upper tributaries of the Red river; July 
 This is the well known Buffalo-grass of the western prairies. It is remarkable 
 that neither the grain nor the fertile flowers of this grass are known. 
 
 Poa (Eragrostis) oxylepis. P. interrupta, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
 (n. ser.) 5, p. 146; not of Lam. Witchita mountains; July. A very neat grass. 
 The specimens of Captain Marcy are only about 18 inches high. 
 
 P. eragrostis. Linn.: Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 333; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 458. 
 North Fork of Red river; July. 
 
 P. arachnifera: panicula oblonga contracta, ramulis semiverticillatis; spicis 
 subquinquefloris, lato-ovatis, fioribus laxis basi et racheos longe lanoso-arach- 
 noideis; glumis inequalibus anguste-lanceolatis, in carina scabris; palea inferiore 
 lineari-lanceolata acutissima obscure 3-5-nervata, carina inferne ciliata. 
 
 0? spiculis 9-10 floris, rachi sparsa lanosa. Headwaters of the Trinity; May. 
 
 Melica glabra, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 62. Witchita mountains; May 30. 
 
 Koeleria cristata, Pers. Syn. 1, p. 97; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 381. K. nitida, 
 Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 74. K. tuberosa, Nutt. in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 
 148. Headwaters of the Trinity. 
 
 Festuca nutans, Willd., Enum. 1, p. 116; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 407; Torr. 
 Fl. N. York, 2, p. 471, t. 158. Witchita mountains; June. 
 
 F. tenella, Willd. 1. c; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 397; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 
 470, t. 154. Headwaters of the Trinity; taller than the plant of the Atlantic 
 States. 
 
 Uniola latifoi.ia, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 71; Ell. Sk. 1, p. 167; Kunth, Enum. 
 1, p. 425. Witchita mountains; July. A tall showy grass, with very large 
 much compressed spikelets. 
 
 U. stricta, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 155. U. multiftora, Nutt., 
 in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Washita river to the upper trib- 
 utaries of the Red river; June-July. No. 2033 Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52 
 is the same. 
 
 Triticum repens, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 440; Torr., Fl. N. York; 2, p. 
 474. Common on the tributaries of Red river; May-June. All the specimens 
 are awnless. 
 
 Elymt/s Canadensis, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 451; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, 
 p. 476. E. glaucifolius, Willd. Cache creek, &c; June. 
 
APPENDIX G. — BOTANY. 289 
 
 Hordeum Jubatum. Linn.; Torr.j PI. Mid. and N. States, 1, p. 158; Kunth, 
 Enwn. 1, p. 457. Tributariee of Red river. 
 
 H. POSUL1.0M, Nutt, Gen, 1, p, 87, and Trans. Araer, Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
 p. 151: Kunth, Enum. 1, p, 457. 
 
 Trjpsacum BACTfLOiDEs, Linn.; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 61; Nutt. 1. c; Kunth, 
 Enum. 1, p. 469, North Fork of Red river; June. 
 
 ^wdropogon Jamesh. Jl. glaucum, Torr. , in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 153; 
 not of Muhl . With the preceding. 
 
 EQUISETACEjE. 
 
 etwm HYEMAI.E, Linn.; Pursh, FL 2, p. 652; Torr., Fl. New York, 2, 
 in Fork of Red river, 
 
APPENDIX Gt. BOTANY. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PLATES. 
 
 Plate I. Anemone Caroliniana. 
 
 Fig. 1, a stamen, magnified ; fig. 2, a head of pistils ; fig. 3, a head of ripe 
 achenia, both magnified ; fig. 4, a single achenium, more enlarged. 
 
 Plate II. Dythyrjba Wislizeni. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower, magnified ; fig. 2, the pistil, more enlarged ; fig. 3, a ripe 
 pod, with one cell opened, to show the seed — also magnified ; fig. 4, the 
 embryo, more magnified. 
 
 Plate III. Geranium Fremontii.* 
 
 Plate IV. Hgffmanseggia Jamesii. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower ; fig. 2, a pod ; fig. 3, seed — all moderately magnified. 
 
 Plate V. Sahguisorba annua. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, the fruit— both magnified. 
 
 Plate VI. Eryngium diffusum. 
 
 Fig. i, a separate leaf; fig. 2, a flower ; fig. 3, a petal ; fig. 4, the ovary, 
 with the styles and three of the sepals ; fig. 5, front view of a stamen and 
 sepal ; fig. 6, side view of the same — all but fig. 1 more or less magnified. 
 
 Plate VII. Euryt-enia Tex an a. 
 
 Fig. 1, a meriearp, magnified ; fig. 2, transverse section 'of the same, more 
 
 magnified. 
 
 i 
 
 Plate VIII. Liatris acidota. 
 
 Fig. 1, head of flowers, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, a single flower, more 
 enlarged ; fig. 3, a single bristle of the pappus, still more enlarged. 
 
 Plate IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus. 
 
 Fig. 1, a ray-flower; fig. 2, a disk-flower ; fig. 3, style of the same ; fig-. 4, 
 achenium, with its coroniform pappus — all magnified. 
 
 * This species was not found by Captain Marcy, but it grows in the region 
 that he explored. The plate was prepared for another government report, 
 which was never published. 
 
292 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 
 
 Plate X. Xanthisma Texana. 
 
 Fig. 1-3, scales of the involucre ; fig. 4, a disk-flower ; fig. 5, achenium and 
 pappus of the same ; fig. 6, ray-flower ; fig. 7, style of the disk-flower — 
 all magnified. 
 
 Plate XI. Engelmannia pinnatifida. 
 
 Fig 1, a ray-flower, with an inner involucral scale ; fig. 2, style of the 
 same ; fig. 3, a disk-flower ; fig. 4, style of the same ; fig. 5, an achenium 
 — all magnified. 
 
 Plate XII. Artimesia filifolia. 
 
 Fig. 1, portion of a flowering branch, moderately enlarged ; fig. 2, a single 
 head, more magnified ; fig. 3, the same, longitudinally cut and equally 
 magnified ; fig. 4, a disk-flower, and fig. 5, a ray-flower, both more mag- 
 nified. 
 
 Plate XIII. Erythr^ea Beyrichii. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower, magnified ; fig. 2, a capsule. 
 
 Plate XIV. Heliotropium tenellum. 
 
 Fig. 1, the calyx ; fig. 2, corollo, showing its aestivation ; fig. 3, the same, 
 expanded ; fig. 4, the same, laid open ; fig. 5, fruit : fig. 6 longitudinal 
 section of the seed— all magnified. 
 
 Plate XV. Euploca comvolvulacea. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the same, laid open and 
 equally magnified ; fig. 3, the stamens, more magnified ; fig. 4, a single 
 stamen, still more magnified ; fig. 5, the pistil, equally magnified ; fig. G. 
 fruit, with the persistent style ; fig 7, transverse section of the same, 
 equally enlarged ; fig. 8, longitudinal section of a seed, more magnified. 
 
 Plate XVI. Penstemon ambiguus. 
 
 Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the stamens and a portion of 
 the corolla, more enlarged ; fig. 3, the pistil, equally magnified ; fig. 4, 
 capsule twice the natural size, and dehiscent. 
 
 Plate XVII. Lippia ciimeifolia. 
 
 Fig. 1, a bract ; fig. 2, a flower ; fig 3, the calyx ; fig. 4, the corolla, cut 
 longitudinally, showing the stamens and pistil — all moderately magni- 
 fied ; fig. 5j the pistil, longitudinally cut, more enlarged. 
 
APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 293 
 
 Plate XVIII. Abronia ctcloptera. 
 
 Fig. 1, involucre, somewhat magnified ; fig. 2, fruit of the natural size ; fig. 
 3, transverse section of the fruit, magnified ; fig. 4, an achenium, magni- 
 fied ; fig. 5 S transverse section of the same, also magnified ; fig. 6, the 
 embryo. 
 
 Plate XIX. POA 1NTERRUPTA. 
 
 Fig. 1, a spikelet ; fig. 2, single flower; fig. 3, a caryopsis — all magnified. 
 
 Plate XX. Uniola stricta. 
 
 Fig. 1, a spikelet, magnified. 
 
APPENDIX H. 
 
 ETHNOLOGY. 
 
 VOCABULARIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE CO- 
 MANCHES AND WITCHITAS : BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY. 
 
APPENDIX H 
 
 ETHNOLOGY. 
 
 VOCABULARIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE CO- 
 MANCHES AND WITCHITAS : BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY. 
 
 Man....... 
 
 "Woman . . . 
 White man. 
 Mexican . . . 
 
 Negro 
 
 Indian.. . . . 
 Delaware. . 
 Kickapoo. . 
 Cherokee . . 
 
 Osage 
 
 Comanche . 
 Chief. 
 
 Friend 
 
 Enemy 
 
 One 
 
 Two....... 
 
 Three...... 
 
 Four ...... 
 
 Five.. 
 Six........ 
 
 Seven 
 
 Eight 
 
 Nine 
 
 Ten 
 
 Horse... . . . 
 
 Mule 
 
 Bear 
 
 Dog 
 
 Prairie-dog. 
 
 Sun 
 
 Moon 
 
 Stars 
 
 Water 
 
 Fire....... 
 
 Road 
 
 Smoke 
 
 River 
 
 Mountain. . 
 
 Corn 
 
 Grass 
 
 Tree 
 
 Blanket 
 
 Mirror 
 
 COMANCHE. 
 
 To-e-bitch-e.. . . 
 
 Wy-e-pe 
 
 To-e-titch-e . . . 
 Tack-o-ii-bo . . 
 Toosh-ah-Jj/-bo . 
 
 Wash-sashe. 
 
 Taak-qtwi-no 
 Hartch 
 
 To-ho-ba-kah , 
 
 Pooke 
 
 Moo-rur . . . 
 Whee -lah . . 
 Charl-lee .. 
 Kee-chee. . . 
 Ta/i-arpe .. 
 
 Mushe 
 
 Tft-arehe .. 
 
 Pah 
 
 Koo-o-nah. 
 
 CooA:-toe , 
 
 Ho-no 
 
 Tb-yah-vees-tah . 
 Hah ne-fte-tah. . . 
 
 Me cheese-ka.. . . . 
 
 O/j.o-pee , 
 
 Wah nopp 
 
 ■A/oA-bo-ne 
 
 WITCHITA. 
 
 Two-bear-e-fcefe-ah . 
 
 A'rt/j-hank. 
 
 E-fca-rish. 
 
 Es-ta-he. 
 
 Es-tah he-cs-co-rash . 
 
 £/i-hos. 
 
 Nar-tca/i-ro. 
 
 Shake -/ca/j-quah. 
 
 S/i-an-nack. 
 
 Wash-sa.she. 
 
 JVb taw. 
 
 A-ra-oh. 
 
 Hartch. 
 
 Now-fa-wah. 
 
 Cha-osth 
 
 Witch. 
 
 Tow -way. 
 
 TaaZfc-witch. 
 
 Es-qwaic-etch. 
 
 Ae-hash. 
 
 Ke-o/f-itch. 
 
 Ke o-/«t«-wah. 
 
 Sa o-Hn-te. 
 
 Es-k ir-ri-ah -wash . 
 
 Ca.-ivah-ra. 
 
 Moo-tut. 
 
 Wee-rah. 
 
 Kcetch-ah. 
 
 Aeec/ie-n'ah. 
 
 A'ee-shaw. 
 
 Moir (like French.) 
 
 Eck-qua-rfe-co. 
 
 Keetche. 
 
 Es-tore. 
 
 To ya,h-cdch-co. 
 
 Etch-qua -ask-co , 
 
 Hat. 
 
 Ne-yaw-caic-tee. 
 
 Tais. 
 
 Ec yock-cod. 
 
 Cawk. 
 
 Ah watqr-cotsh. 
 
 Atch-e-o-wash. 
 
298 
 
 APPENDIX H, ETHNOLOGY. 
 
 COMANCHE. 
 
 WITCHITA. 
 
 Paint.. 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 Powder 
 
 Gun 
 
 Bow 
 
 Arrow 
 
 Yes 
 
 No..... 
 
 To hear 
 
 To sleep 
 
 To come , 
 
 To go 
 
 Fight 
 
 Understand 
 
 Talk 
 
 Look here 
 
 I see 
 
 Tell them 
 
 He says 
 
 How much ?. . . 
 How far ?...., 
 
 Good 
 
 Bad 
 
 Great 
 
 Small 
 
 Black 
 
 Dead 
 
 God 
 
 My father 
 
 My mother. . . 
 My brother. . . 
 
 My sister 
 
 My son 
 
 My daughter . 
 My husband.. 
 
 My wife 
 
 Child 
 
 Bojt 
 
 Girl 
 
 Face 
 
 Body 
 
 Head 
 
 Heart 
 
 Breast 
 
 Hair 
 
 Hand. 
 
 Leg 
 
 Foot 
 
 Neck 
 
 Eye 
 
 Mouth 
 
 Tongue 
 
 Back 
 
 Bone 
 
 Blood 
 
 Ear 
 
 Scalp 
 
 Buffalo . . . . . . 
 
 Pees-ah-pee Tah-rah o-way. 
 
 Pah-mo Way-co. 
 
 Nah-co chee Etch-eod. 
 
 Pe-i-it Kah-Zo-kash. 
 
 Ho-a a-te Kee-s^i-its. 
 
 Pa-ark .A'ay-quats. 
 
 Hah Wash. 
 
 Kay Ke ah.re. 
 
 Nali-gut To-otch kash. 
 
 Ithe-pe A-shotch.a-s/ioMJ-bick. 
 
 Keem-mah To-ta-os. 
 
 Me ah-lo Totch-esch. 
 
 Naw-bah-ola-kah Ta-a-chots. 
 
 fiTocft-kun-nee Wah-tavv-chow-ofc/i-kash. 
 
 Ta-quaw Wash-talk-fce-shaw. 
 
 Cab-&oo?i Esh-s/ja-esh. 
 
 Un-s/ia-esh. 
 
 Marry-e-ah-whit-to . .... .1 22-shock. 
 
 raZfc-kash. 
 
 Jltch-kinch. 
 
 Ah-she-ka-atch-e a-wah. 
 
 ./Itch-tah. 
 
 Naw-owi-ta. 
 
 Totch -tali. 
 
 Kee-eicft-tah. 
 
 Co-rash. 
 
 Chaat 
 
 Tahe-cbAt 
 
 Pe-opp 
 
 Ter-titche 
 
 Tbo-hop 
 
 Ta-yeh j Wah-Za-tash 
 
 Tar-a-pe 
 
 Ner-acfc-pee 
 
 Ner-fce-ar 
 
 Ner-Zffi-ma | 
 
 Ner-pa-eher j 
 
 Ner-Zoo-ar 
 
 Ner pa-tax 
 
 Ner co mack-pe 
 
 Ner-quer 
 
 To-a-chee 
 
 To-a-nicfc-pe 
 
 Wy-ah-pee-chee 
 
 Koo-veh 
 
 Wahk-cher 
 
 Pa-aft 
 
 Pe-hee 
 
 To-koo 
 
 Par-pe 
 
 Moo. wah 
 
 Ah-Zoo-koo 
 
 JVaA-hap 
 
 Too yock 
 
 Naw-chiche 
 
 Tep-pa 
 
 Ar-aA-ko 
 
 Qua-hee 
 
 So-nip 
 
 Peeshe-pa,h 
 
 jVoA-karke 
 
 Pah-pee 
 
 CooA>chow 
 
APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 
 
 299 
 
 COMANCHE. 
 
 O x Pe-mo ro 
 
 Herd of horses Tah-fte-yeh ...... 
 
 Deer Ul-leek-hah 
 
 Turkey Ko-yo-nif-tah 
 
 Day Tah-arp 
 
 Summer.. 7Varch 
 
 Winter . To-han 
 
 Spring Tane-ftafe-ro 
 
 jij ioht Too-kah-ra, 
 
 Morning Pua-ori/t-co 
 
 Darkness Teir 
 
 Rain Er-mar , 
 
 Snow Tar-kau 
 
 Sea Par-hap-hia 
 
 Prairie • Ve-he-wale-tc . . ■ 
 
 Springj (fountain) Pah-hap-pea 
 
 Bread Ta-e-s/tfHU-tar . . . 
 
 Melon'.'. Pe-fce-na 
 
 •Wood Koo-o/t-nee 
 
 Forest - Hoo-o/f-cartc . . . 
 
 Bird Hoo-choo 
 
 Fish Frt-que 
 
 Snake Noo-be-er 
 
 Stone Terp... 
 
 Lead JVwp-parke 
 
 Pipe To/i-ish 
 
 Corn Hah-ne-fte-teh . . 
 
 Tent Kah-fta/i-me 
 
 Wampum Tshe-nip 
 
 Kettle Way-he-z'o-wuh . 
 
 Boat Wo-we-poke 
 
 Axe i Ho-Mm-nah 
 
 Spear » Cheak 
 
 Knife •• Weith 
 
 Flint JVa-da-curte 
 
 Shoe.'.' Ma-a-pee 
 
 Kettle Wit-wah 
 
 Town Kee-mt-kie 
 
 Warrior Too-a-vitche. . . . 
 
 Hot t/r-ate 
 
 Cold Urtch-ate 
 
 White ' Too-shop 
 
 j^ e( j A-frop-tee 
 
 Handsome Char-nar-bo-my . 
 
 Live JV«i/-ure 
 
 Salt O-nae-M-er 
 
 J^ear May-titch 
 
 Far off Ma-rior-kee 
 
 To-morrow Pa-arc/i-quee 
 
 To kill ! May-way-kun . . 
 
 To eat... 
 To walk. 
 To run 
 
 Tu-/car-roo . 
 He?--mumsh . 
 
 No-/c«-ark . . 
 
 To drink He-fcef-to 
 
 To laugh. 
 To cry . . 
 To love.. 
 To trade . 
 
 Ta-hah-net .. . 
 
 T«fe-kay 
 
 Kum-mar-pee. 
 Te-me-a/i-row . 
 
 WITCHITA. 
 
300 
 
 APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 COMANCHE. 
 
 WITCHITA. 
 
 To see = 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Me 
 
 Nf 
 
 
 
 
 He...... . . 
 
 
 
 They 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 30.1 
 
 REMARKS ON THE PRECEDING VOCABULARIES, BY PROFESSOR 
 • W, W. TURNER. 
 
 Of the two vocabularies here given, the Comanche agrees 
 very closely with that obtained by Mr. Robert S. Neighbors, 
 Indian agent in Texas, and published by H. S. Schoolcraft, 
 in his History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian tribes, 
 vol. 11, p. 494, et sea.; the slight discrepancies which pre- 
 sent themselves between the two being nearly owing to the 
 different manner in which the same sounds are caught and 
 represented by different persons. The ethnological affinities 
 of the Camanches are w T ell known. They are the most im- 
 portant tribe of Indians in Texas, and constitute a portion of 
 the great Shoshonee or Snake family, which have been led 
 in pursuit of the buffalo far to the south of their congeners. 
 
 The vocabulary of the Witchitas, though less complete, is 
 more interesting, as being the first ever published, as far as I. 
 am aware. A pretty extended examination, however, has not 
 enabled me to discover an analogy between it and any other 
 aboriginal tongue with which we have the means of compar- 
 ison. It is true, that in Captain Marcy's lists the words for 
 Osage, friend, mule, bear, prairie-dog, are the same in this lan- 
 guage as in the Comanche ; but the entire dissimilarity of the 
 two vocabularies in other respects, shows that the words in 
 question must have been adopted from one language into the 
 other, or from a common foreign source. Thus it is evident 
 that the Comanche name for prairie-dog is borrowed from the 
 Witch ita, while the name for mule has been taken by both 
 from the Spanish. The ethnological position of the Witchitas, 
 then, remains still to be determined. 
 
ALPHABETICAL INDEX.* 
 
 Page. 
 
 Abronia . . . . 284, 293 
 
 Abundance of water and grass. ... 46 
 
 Acacia 272 
 
 Acephala 242 
 
 Acerates 277 
 
 Adair bay 126 
 
 Achillea 275 
 
 Actinella 276 
 
 Agama 221, 222 
 
 Agassizocrinus 186 
 
 Agricultural capabilities 75 
 
 Agrostis., 287 
 
 Albuquerque, altitude of 121 
 
 Alecran (scorpion) 259 
 
 Alkaline charater of water. ..... 9 
 
 Mlionia 283, 284 
 
 Allium 285 
 
 Jitliwn 285 
 
 Amianthium 285 
 
 Jhniant antli us 285 
 
 Ammonites 196 
 
 Amorpha 271 
 
 Amsonia 278 
 
 Jlmsonia 278 
 
 Anabrus 248, 249 
 
 Anacardiacese 269 
 
 Analysis of gypsum spring 56 
 
 Analysis of gypsum water 99 
 
 Analysis of Marcylite 10 
 
 Analysis of subsoil 9, 25 
 
 Ananchy tes 198 
 
 Jlnantherix 277 
 
 Anemone 267, 291 
 
 Andropogon 289 
 
 Jlndropogon 289 
 
 Anodonta 245 
 
 Antelopes 17, 54, 55, 67 
 
 Antilocapra 201 
 
 Antiscorbutics 39 
 
 Aphanostephus 276, 291 
 
 . .Aphanostephus , 276 
 
 Apocynum 277 
 
 Page. 
 
 Aracbnidians 251 
 
 Araneida? 251 
 
 Archimedipora 188 
 
 Argemone 267 
 
 Aristida 287 
 
 Jlristida 287 
 
 Arkansas, geology of 167 
 
 Artemisia 274, 292 
 
 Asclepiadacete 277 
 
 Asclepias 277 
 
 Jlsclepias 277 
 
 Astarte 194 
 
 Astragalus.. 271 
 
 Atacamite .10, 147 
 
 Mheropogon 287 
 
 Atmospheric refraction 44 
 
 Atreus 259 
 
 Atriplex 283 
 
 Baptisia 271 
 
 Barometer broken. ]5 
 
 Bassaris 147 
 
 Battle between Indians 46 
 
 Batracbians 235 
 
 Bear, instinct of. 62 
 
 Beaver creek 69 
 
 Beavers, habits of 36 
 
 Big Wichita 11 
 
 Birds seen 13 
 
 Bituminous coal 123 
 
 Boraginacere 280 
 
 Bos 201 
 
 Bottle buried 41 
 
 Bottom lands, 92 
 
 Boulders 20, 174, 176 
 
 Boundary between Texas & Choc- 
 taw Nation 21 
 
 Bouteloua 287 
 
 Eouieloua. 287 
 
 Bow, its use and material 106 
 
 Buffaloes... 17, 27, 29, 77 
 
 Synonyms are italicised,. 
 
304 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 Buffaloes, diminution of their num- 
 bers 114 
 
 Buffalo grass 43 
 
 Buffaloes, range of. 113 
 
 Buffaloes, relation of to Indians. . 112 
 
 Bufo. 229, 230 
 
 Bulimus.. 243 
 
 Buthus 259 
 
 Brachiopodaj. 188 
 
 Brachypeplus 249 
 
 Brackish water. ................ 69 
 
 Brown coal 153 
 
 Brush fence 37 
 
 Bryozoa „ 188 
 
 G. 
 
 Cache creek 8 
 
 Calamagrostis 287 
 
 Calligonium 283 
 
 CallirrhoB 268 
 
 Calymenia 283 
 
 Canadian 42 
 
 Canaje-Hexie 18 
 
 Canis ... .. 200 
 
 Canons 166 
 
 Capparidacese. 267 
 
 Carex 286 
 
 Carex 286 
 
 Caryophyllaceoe 268 
 
 Cardium 194 
 
 Cassia. 272 
 
 Castilleja. 279 
 
 Castor 200 
 
 Cattle-stealing 106 
 
 Centaurea 276 
 
 Centipede 262 
 
 Ceratichthys 237 
 
 Cervus 201 
 
 Chastity of prisoners, violation of. 110 
 
 Chenopodiacese 283 
 
 Chenopodium 283 
 
 Chickasaw phim 20 
 
 Chief hood of Indians . 105 
 
 Ckloris. . . 287 
 
 Choctaw reservation, boundary of. 80 
 
 Chloris. 287 
 
 Chloris 287 
 
 Chondrosium 287 
 
 Cbondrosiwm 287 
 
 Chrysopsis 276 
 
 Cirsium 276 
 
 Clematis . . 267 
 
 Clitoria 271 
 
 Cnemidophorus 226 
 
 Cnidoscolus 171 
 
 Coal 283 
 
 Page. 
 Coal basin in west. ............. 152 
 
 Coal of Brazos 152 
 
 Cold weather. * 32 
 
 Coal west of Mississippi 152 
 
 Colorado, confusion of the name. 4 
 
 Coluber 214 
 
 Cornanches 93 
 
 Comanches, physical features of. 107 
 Cornanches, subdivisions of. .... . 103 
 
 Comanche trail. 27 
 
 Comandra 281 
 
 Commelyna 284 
 
 Commelynaceae 284 
 
 Composite 274 
 
 Coniferae 284 
 
 Convovulvus 278 
 
 Convolvulus 278 
 
 Convolvulacere 278 
 
 Copper........ 162 
 
 Copper, carbonate of. 177 
 
 Copper ore. .8, 9, 10, 25, 145 
 
 Coronella. 214 
 
 Courses and distances 140 
 
 Cretaceous fossils 172, 191 
 
 Cretaceous rocks. 172 
 
 Crinoidea 186 
 
 Crotalus 202 
 
 Crotaphytus 221 
 
 Croton 282 
 
 Cross Timbers 76, 87, 92 
 
 Cruciferse 267 
 
 Cucumis 273 
 
 Cucurbita 273 
 
 Cucurbita 273 
 
 Cucurbitacea3. 273 
 
 Cupuliferae 284 
 
 Cyathrocrinus 186 
 
 Cyelas 243 
 
 Cyperaceae 285 
 
 Cyperus 285 
 
 Cypcrus 288 
 
 D. 
 
 Daihinia ....... 246 
 
 Dalea. 271 
 
 Dalea 271 
 
 Dasystoma 279 
 
 Deer .63, 67 
 
 Deer-bleat 54, 70 
 
 Delphinium 267 
 
 Desmodium 271 
 
 Dews 46 
 
 Didelphys 201 
 
 Dinebra 287 
 
 Diploppapus 276 
 
INDEX. 
 
 305 
 
 Page. 
 Distances from Fort Belknap to 
 
 Santa Fe 97 
 
 Dithyrsea. 268, 291 
 
 Divide 13, 15 
 
 Dodecatheon • 281 
 
 Dofii Ana 126 
 
 Drift 163, 178, 180 
 
 Drift-hills 179 
 
 Drought 39 
 
 E. 
 
 Early explorations of Red river. . 2 
 
 Echinacea 275 
 
 Echinodermata 198 
 
 Egletes 276 
 
 Elevations above sea. 48. 61 
 
 Elk creek 22 
 
 Elymus 288 
 
 Elymus 288 
 
 Encampment, mode of. 33 
 
 Engelmannia 276, 292 
 
 Engelmannia 282 
 
 Enslenia.. 277 
 
 Equisetaceae 289 
 
 Equisetum 289 
 
 Eragrostis 288 
 
 Eriogonum 283 
 
 Eritrichium 285 
 
 Erilrichium 285 
 
 Eryngium 290 
 
 Erythrsea 278, 292 
 
 Erythrcea 278 
 
 1'Etage Senonien 169 
 
 Euchroma 279 
 
 Eulima 196 
 
 Euphorbia 282 
 
 Euphorbiacea? 282 
 
 Euploca 280, 292 
 
 Euploca 282 
 
 Eurytamia 274, 291 
 
 Eustoma 278 
 
 Eutsenia 205 
 
 Eutriana 287 
 
 Evolvulus 278 
 
 Evolvulus. 278 
 
 Exogyra 191 
 
 Explorations by Gregg 5 
 
 " " James 4 
 
 " " Lono- 4 
 
 " Pike ........ 3 
 
 " " Sparks 2 
 
 False rumors. 
 
 20 
 
 82 
 
 Page. 
 False scorpions. ................ Ji59 
 
 Fedia 274 
 
 Felis 201 
 
 Ferruginous sand. 183 
 
 Fertility of soil 80 
 
 Festuca 288 
 
 Fimbristylis 286 
 
 Fish ...26, 233 
 
 Flies, annoyance from .71, 76 
 
 Fort Arbuckle, arrival at. ...... . 88 
 
 Fort Belknap 6, 13 
 
 Fort Smith, altitude of. ........ . 121 
 
 Fort Smith, arrival at ......... . 5 
 
 Fossils 49 
 
 Fossil-wood ..... 176 
 
 French explorations of Red river. 2 
 Fresh water .38, 40 
 
 G. 
 
 Gaillardia 275 
 
 Galeodes. ..................... 261 
 
 Garter snake ............... 205 
 
 Gasteropoda ................... 243 
 
 Gaura .... ................ 272 
 
 GentianacesE .................. 278 
 
 GeraniacetB 269 
 
 Geranium .269, 291 
 
 Gerardia 279 
 
 Geology of Arkansas ........... 167 
 
 Geology of country ............ 167 
 
 Glandularis 280 
 
 Globiconcha ................... 195 
 
 Glycyrrhiza 270 
 
 Gnats, annoyance from ......... 73 
 
 Gold.... 173 
 
 Gold-bearing formation 20 
 
 Gold-bearing rocks ............. 159 
 
 Gold deposites.. ............... 17 
 
 Gold diggings of Colorado ...... 158 
 
 Grama grass .30, 45, 54 
 
 Grama 281 
 
 Graminese 286 
 
 Granite .16, 17, 173 
 
 Grapes 38 
 
 Grasses, native ................ 79 
 
 Grazing, best time for .......... 33 
 
 Gregg's expedition 5 
 
 Greyhounds, use of, in chase. ... 27 
 
 Grossulacea; 273 
 
 Grotto in gypsum .............. 56 
 
 Grove of timber 23 
 
 Grypham 192 
 
 Guides, sagacity of. ........... . 81 
 
 Gynamblosis. .................. 282 
 
 Gypsum .22, 50 
 
 Gypsum beds, extent of. ....... . 99 
 
306 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Gypsum deposite m, . . 164 
 
 Gypsum formation 157 
 
 Gypsum in South America 1G4 
 
 Gypsum water, analysis of 86, 99 
 
 II. 
 
 Head of navigation of Red river. 97 
 
 Head spring of Red river 60 
 
 Hedyotis 274 
 
 Heterodon 208 
 
 Helianthus 275 
 
 Helix plebeium 31 
 
 Heliotropium 292 
 
 Helonias 285 
 
 Hemiaster 198 
 
 Hendecandra 282 
 
 Hendecandra 282 
 
 Herpetodryas 214 
 
 Hoffmanseggia 271, 291 
 
 Holaster 198 
 
 Holbrookia 206 
 
 Holect3 T pus 199 
 
 Homeward inarch 63 
 
 Hordeum 289 
 
 Hospitality, rights of 109 
 
 Houstonia 274 
 
 Hundredth degree of longitude.. . 20 
 
 Hymenopappus 275 
 
 Hymcnopappus 275 
 
 Hymenolkecium 287 
 
 Hymenoxys ^ . . . . 276 
 
 Hypoxidacese 284 
 
 Hypoxis 284 
 
 Ignorance of power of whites. . . . 108 
 
 Incredulity of Indians 108 
 
 Indians 80 
 
 Indians and Tartars compared. . . 112 
 
 Indian camps 33 
 
 Indian forays 95 
 
 Indian horsemanship 103 
 
 Indians, mode of checking 96 
 
 Indians of Red river, general de- 
 scription of 1 02 
 
 Indian tracks 69 
 
 Indian villages 78 
 
 Indigofera 270 
 
 Inoceramus 193 
 
 Ipomaea 278 
 
 Iridacece 285 
 
 Iron sands. 147 
 
 J. 
 
 James, Dr., journal of. 4 
 
 Janira 191 
 
 Jasper 159 
 
 Jatropha 283 
 
 Julus 264 
 
 June rise 16, 87, 98 
 
 Juniperus 284 
 
 Juniperus 284 
 
 Juniperus Virginiana 57 
 
 Kaskia Indians 3 
 
 Ke-clie-a-qui-ho-no 53 
 
 Keechies 101 
 
 Kickapoos 87 
 
 Kioways 39, 47, 93 
 
 Kioway creek 41 
 
 Koeleria 288 
 
 Kocleria 288 
 
 Krameria 270 
 
 Krameriacere 270 
 
 L. 
 
 Labiatae 280 
 
 Latitudes 41, 61, 64, 69 
 
 Lakes of Red river 91 
 
 Laguna Colorado 121 
 
 Labradorite 148 
 
 Leguminosas 270 
 
 Lepachys 275 
 
 Lephrosia 270 
 
 Leptocaulis 273 
 
 Letophis 219 
 
 Lepus 200 
 
 Leuciscus 237, 238, 239, 240 
 
 Liatris 274, 291 
 
 Liatris 274 
 
 Lies told by the Indians 19 
 
 Lightning 14 
 
 Lignite 159 
 
 Liliacea 285 
 
 Lime 25 
 
 Linacese 268 
 
 Linum 268 
 
 Lippia 280, 292 
 
 Liquor, use of, among Indians. . . 114 
 
 Lisianthus 278 
 
 Little Witchita 6 
 
 Lizards described 219 
 
 Llano Estacado 36, 38, 45 
 
INDEX. 
 
 307 
 
 Page. 
 Llano Estacado impracticable for 
 
 a railroad 119 
 
 Llano Estacado, geology of. 179 
 
 Loasaceae 273 
 
 Lodges, Witchita, town of. 78 
 
 Loess creek 31 
 
 Longitudes 41 
 
 Long's exploration 4 
 
 Long's peak 125 
 
 Lost member of party 42 
 
 Lutra 200 
 
 Lycosa 252 
 
 Lygodesmia 276 
 
 Lygosoma 228 
 
 Lymneea 244 
 
 Lynx 200 
 
 M. 
 
 Magnetic needle, variation of. . . . 68 
 
 Malva 268 
 
 Malvastrum 268 
 
 Malvaceae 268 
 
 Mammals . . .' 200 
 
 Manganese ore 147 
 
 Marcylite 10, 134 
 
 Marshallia 276 
 
 Masticophis 217 
 
 McClellan's creek 44 
 
 Medicine lodges 116 
 
 Melampodium 276 
 
 Melampodium 276 
 
 Melanthacese 285 
 
 Melica 288 
 
 Mentzelia 273 
 
 Mephitis 200 
 
 Meteorological observations 127 
 
 Mezquite grass 7 
 
 Mezquite wood 31, 43, 64, 70, 123 
 
 Middle Comanches 85 
 
 Military post, new one advised .90, 91 
 
 Mineralogy 145 
 
 Mirabilis 283 
 
 Mirage 45 
 
 Mollusca 191 
 
 Monarda 280 
 
 Monarda 280 
 
 Mount Scott 76 
 
 Mount Webster 22 
 
 Mountains, physical features of. . . 71 
 
 Mulberry creek 65 
 
 Mule lost 80 
 
 Mygale 251 
 
 Myosotis 281 
 
 Myriapods 262 
 
 N. 
 
 Navigation of Bio- Witchita 7 
 
 Negroes, hostility to. 110 
 
 Nemastylis 285 
 
 North Fork 25 
 
 Nyctaginace<£ 283 
 
 Oaks, dwarf. 26 
 
 Obione 283 
 
 Obione 283 
 
 CEnothera 272 
 
 Oldenlandia 274 
 
 Onagraceaj 272 
 
 Ophibolus 214, 215, 216 
 
 Order for expedition 1 
 
 Orthopterous insects 248 
 
 Ostrea 192 
 
 Otter creek. 16 
 
 Overcup oak 8 
 
 Oxalidacece 268 
 
 Oxalis 268 
 
 Oxybaphus .283, 284 
 
 Oxy tropis 271 
 
 Pah-hah-en-ca 85 
 
 Palaeontology 186 
 
 Pat afoxia 275 
 
 Panicum 286 
 
 Panicum., 286 
 
 Panopeai 194 
 
 Panther 12 
 
 Papaveracoa 267 
 
 Paronychia 268 
 
 Paspalum 186 
 
 Pass in the mountains 76 
 
 Patent Office, letter from. ..... 65 
 
 Peak of Guadalupe 124 
 
 Pecten 191 
 
 Pentratrematiks 187 
 
 Pentremites 187 
 
 Pentstemon .279, 292 
 
 Pentstemon 280 
 
 Petalostemon 270, 271 
 
 Petrified wood 44 
 
 Phalangium 286 
 
 Phalangopsis 286 
 
 Phalaris 286 
 
 Phalaris 286 
 
 Phengites 165 
 
 Phlox 281 
 
 Phrynosorna 220 
 
 Physa .243, 244 
 
 Physalis , 279 
 
 Pike's expedition 3 
 
508 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Pituophya 21 1 
 
 Planorbia . 244 
 
 Plantagenacera 283 
 
 Plantago 283 
 
 Pleuraohis 287 
 
 Poa...* 288, 293 
 
 Poa. 288 
 
 Polanisia 267 
 
 Polemoniace-Es 281 
 
 Polygala.. 2G9 
 
 Polygalaceae.. 269 
 
 Polygonaccaj 283 
 
 Polyotus 277 
 
 Polytenia 273 
 
 Pomotis..... 235 
 
 Porphyritic greenstone 157 
 
 Portulacaceee 268 
 
 Poterium 272 
 
 Prairie dogs 45 
 
 Prairie-dog towns 50 
 
 Presents distributed 18 
 
 Preston 97 
 
 Preston, arrival at 6 
 
 PrimulaceEe 281 
 
 Prisoners, release of 85 
 
 Prisoners, Mexican 85 
 
 Procyon 200 
 
 Productus.. 189 
 
 Primus chicaaa 20 
 
 Psammophis 217 
 
 Pseudoscorpionidee 260 
 
 Psoralea.. 270 
 
 Ptelea.. *>69 
 
 Ptoromys. 200 
 
 Pupa muscorum. 3] 
 
 Pure water. 69 
 
 Phyrrlsopappus 276 
 
 Quapaws. 101 
 
 Quercus .... ^ 284 
 
 Quercus macrocarpa. 8 
 
 Quicksand 7 , 32 
 
 It. 
 
 Raft of Red river 90 
 
 Railroad, best route for 120, 123 
 
 Railroad, general considerations 
 
 respecting 119 
 
 Rain .....14, 15, 16, 70 
 
 Rains, times of occurrence 46 
 
 Rana 231 
 
 Ranunculacese 267 
 
 Rattlesnake 217 
 
 Red clay formation lao 
 
 Red river 21 
 
 Red river, early explorations of. . 2 
 P«.ed river, its physical characters 91 
 Red river, position of sources. ... 92 
 
 Reptiles 202 
 
 Reptiles collected 66 
 
 Religious belief 116 
 
 Retepora 188 
 
 Rhus 269 
 
 Rhynchosia 270 
 
 Ribes 273 
 
 Riddellia 275 
 
 Riddellia 275 
 
 Rio Raijo of Humboldt 4 
 
 Rise of river 47 
 
 River terraces 97 
 
 Rock bed of river 59 
 
 Rock salt 98 
 
 Rosacea? 272 
 
 Rubiacece 274 
 
 Rudbeckia 275 
 
 Rudbeckia 275 
 
 Rush creek 87 
 
 Sabbatia 278 
 
 Safe return 89 
 
 Sagacity of Indians 35 
 
 San Diego 122 
 
 Sand-hills 17, 98 
 
 Sandy creek 43 
 
 Salt Fork 23 
 
 Salt, incrustation of 37 
 
 Salt springs 185 
 
 Salt plains not at head of Red river 45 
 
 Sanguisorba 272, 291 
 
 Santalacese 281 
 
 Sapindacese 269 
 
 Sapindus 269 
 
 Sceleporus 224 
 
 Scenery, magnificent 60 
 
 Schrankia 272 
 
 Schrankia angustata 48 
 
 Scilla 285 
 
 Sinews 229 
 
 Sciurus 200 
 
 Scolopendra 262 
 
 Scoria 155 
 
 Scorpio 257 
 
 Scorpions 257 
 
 ScorpionidiE 257 
 
 Scotophis 213 
 
 Scrophulariaceffi 279 
 
 Scutellaria 280 
 
 Scurvy 39, 47 
 
INDEX. 
 
 309 
 
 Page- 
 
 Scyphia.. .. .. . 155 
 
 Sections, geological 172 
 
 Selenite 176 
 
 Septaria 148 
 
 Serpents 202 
 
 Sesleria 288 
 
 Shells 242 
 
 Shepard, Prof. C. U., letter from. 145 
 
 Shortest route to Pacific 123 
 
 Sicydimn 273 
 
 Sicydium . 273 
 
 Sida 268 
 
 •Sidell's route 124 
 
 Sierra Waco ]22 
 
 Signs, use of. 109 
 
 Silene 268 
 
 ■Sisyrinchium 286 
 
 Smoke of Indians 67 
 
 Snows, little obstruction from. . . . 123 
 
 Soils, analysis of. 148 
 
 Solanacess 279 
 
 Solanum . . 279 
 
 Solidago 274 
 
 Spark s expedition 2 
 
 Spermophilus 201 
 
 -Spiders 252 
 
 Spirifer 190 
 
 Sporobolus 287 
 
 Staked Plain 63 
 
 Staked Plain, etymology of. ... . 100 
 
 Stevia 275 
 
 Stillingia 282 
 
 Stillingia 282 
 
 Strept'hanthus , 267 
 
 Subsoils 168 
 
 Subsoil, analysis of. 8 
 
 Succinea 245 
 
 Succinea elongata 31 
 
 Sulphate of lime 49 
 
 Sulphur river 123 
 
 Sulphuret of lead 184 
 
 .Superstitions. 116 
 
 Suydam creek 27 
 
 Sweetwater creek 32 
 
 Swiftness of wild animals 68 
 
 T. 
 
 Talinum 268 
 
 Talk with the Indians. 18 
 
 Taniias 200 
 
 Tarantula 251 
 
 Tarantulidae 254 
 
 Tartars and Indians compared . . . 104 
 
 Telegonous 257 
 
 Temperature of water 9 
 
 Terebratula 189, 190 
 
 Page. 
 
 Terraces of river 38 
 
 Tertiary coal 152 
 
 Teucrium 280 
 
 Teucrium 280 
 
 Thelyphonus 255 
 
 Tkesium 281 
 
 Thirst..... 58, 59 
 
 Tiliqua 229 
 
 Tillable land on Red river 92 
 
 Timber 71 
 
 Timber, large size of. 43 
 
 Timber, varieties of. 8, 13 
 
 Titanian sands 147 
 
 Tobacco, use of. Ill 
 
 To-se-quash 85 
 
 Tradescantia 284 
 
 Traffic of Indians, illegal. ....... 114 
 
 Tragia 282 
 
 Tragia 282 
 
 Transportation of stores, route for 96 
 
 Trigonia 193 
 
 Trinity river 122 
 
 Tripsacum 289 
 
 Triticum 288 
 
 Tylostoma 195 
 
 Umbelliferte 273 
 
 Unio 243, 244, 245 
 
 Uniola 288, 293 
 
 Uniola 288 
 
 Ursus 200 
 
 V. 
 
 Valerianaces 274 
 
 Valley, fertile 76 
 
 Verbena 280 
 
 Verbenacece 280 
 
 Vermillion, use of. 108 
 
 Vesicaria 267 
 
 Vicia 270 
 
 Vinaigron ( Thelyphonus) 254 
 
 Vitaceai 269 
 
 Vitis 269 
 
 Volcanic rocks 158 
 
 Vulpes 117 
 
 W. 
 
 Wacos 84, 101 
 
 War-club 107 
 
 War parties 106 
 
310 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 War parties, how distinguished. . 27 
 
 Warner's pass 126 
 
 Water basin 64 
 
 Water of Red river, analysis of. . 165 
 
 Water, sudden rise of. 14 
 
 Wildcat 66, 110 
 
 Wild-horse creek 87 
 
 Winds, prevailing. 33 
 
 Winters of Red river 92 
 
 Witchitas 18, 83, 101 
 
 Witchita mountains.. 10, 17, 67, 69 
 Witchita mountains, agricultural 
 
 capabilities of country about ... 78 
 Witchitas, extent of their country. 75 
 
 Page. 
 Wichita mountains, structure of. . 1 75 
 Women, condition of 112 
 
 X. 
 
 Xanthisma 292 
 
 Z. 
 
 ZanthoxylaceiE 269 
 
 Zapania 280 
 
 Zinnia 275 
 
 Zoology.. 200 
 
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 Wg^ INDIANA 46 962_ 
 
 ay 
 
 ■ ■■ 
 
 %&