F 1090 .P2 Copy 1 ...l„^ill¥iO.L-XV ^ TO THE CANADA Class j K O ^ 4 ^ Book. J Z ^ COFQ^IGHT DEPOSIT. Digitized by tine Internet Arcinive in 2010 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/climbersguidetorOOpalm Jv.-s."^ Photo by H. Palmer MOUNT ALBERTA (11874 ft) FROM THE S.W. A Formidable Unclimbed Peak of the Range A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS OF CANADA BY HOWARD PALMER AND J. MONROE THORINGTON FIRST EDITION PUBLISHED FOR THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB BY tibe 1Rnic??erbocI?er ipress NEW YORK I92I Flo9 ■r-j Copyright, 192 1 by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington Printed in the United States of America SEP 23 192i g)C!.A624473 Perpetual devotion to what man calls his business is only to be sustained by perpetual neglect of many other things. And it is not by any means certain that a man's business is the most important thing he has to do. —An Apology for Idlers. Robert Louis Stevenson PREFACE A LTHOUGH the time is by no means ripe for the ^~^ making of a complete "Climber's Guide" to the Canadian Rockies, a summary of the existing infor- mation can scarcely fail to be of service. For so voluminous has their alpine literature become and so widely scattered are the items, that the present-day mountaineer has a well-nigh hopeless task to inform himself about a given district or peak. Commencing at the United States boundary, we have listed the named peaks of the Canadian Rockies above nine thousand feet in elevation as far north as Mount Sir Alexander, four hundred and fifty miles away. They riumber nearly four hundred and fifty. Under each is inserted a brief description and, wher- ever possible, concise directions for the climb, based generally upon the printed report of the first ascent. The names of the party and the principal references relating to the peak are also given. Naturally, in such a vast domain, many mountains have been climbed without the publication of records. The Dominion Topographical Survey alone has occupied an immense number of high peaks as stations about many of which particulars are lacking in the official reports. Unfortunately, therefore, one cannot pro- claim that a peak has not be'en climbed just because nothing has been printed about it, and the lack of data in these pages is not proof positive that the ascent has never been made. vi PREFACE For convenience of description, we have divided the country of the high mountains into regional groups as indicated by obvious boundaries, such as valleys, passes, and railways. The line of the Continental Divide serves as a thread of connection between the groups and gives a semblance of unity to the whole. Introducing each section is a terse enumeration of its outstanding features with mention of the means of access. The peaks of the Divide are then listed in alphabetical order, as are those situated to the east of the Divide and to the west of the Divide. Certain other group's removed from the Divide are discussed separately but in association with the sections of the Divide to which they are adjacent. The arrangement in general is progressive and con- tinuous from south to north. Part One includes the mountains from the International Boundary to the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad ; Part Two extends the description to the Mount Columbia group and Fortress lake; while Part Three embraces the Yellowhead Pass region, extending from Fortress lake to Mount Sir Alexander and Jarvis pass, beyond which the mountains become less typically alpine in character. No doubt the attempt to cover this enormous moun- tain system in the compass of a single small volume may seem somewhat heroic. We are fain to confess that, at times, it has seemed so to us. Yet there are mitigating circumstances of which perhaps the chief is the existence of most excellent maps, governmental and private. These have afforded a substantial groundwork for the interpretation of cloudy literary descriptions and for the correct location of the named peaks. Particularly would we allude to the Report and Atlas of the Interprovincial Boundary Survey PREFACE vii published in 191 7. This gives the first detailed and connected description of the Canadian Rockies, from the United States Boundary to the main Hne of the Canadian Pacific Railroad — an exceedingly important section of the range which was only scantily mapped before. All mountaineers will be eternally grateful for this work and no Climber's Guide to the Canadian Rockies would be in the least adequate without it, the section of the range to the north being better known. While the manuscript was in the press, Sheets 17, 18, and 19 of the Boundary Survey were issued, extending the series as far as the Lyell icefield. We have had the advantage, therefore, of utilizing these in prepar- ing Part Two. Other basic maps by the Dominion Topographical Survey, Dr. J. Norman Collie, and the Alpine Club of Canada are referred to elsewhere. For readers unfamiliar with the Canadian Rockies, it may be stated that the conditions under which mountaineering is carried on are vastly different from those prevailing in the Alps or other frequented mountain regions. Along the railroads alone are there places that can be regarded as climbing centers. Depart from these but a little and a pack train must be employed, so that far more time will be spent in travel than in actual climbing. The country away from the railway is in a primeval state. Trails are only nominal because so seldom traveled. They are usually ob- structed by fallen trees. Frequent mountain torrents and occasional rivers must be forded. The open gravel bars of their beds are highways wherever they can be so used. Everywhere veritable pioneer condi- tions prevail. The alpine hut is unknown and although at several viii PREFACE points it is possible to spend a night at a permanent camp, a light tent and camping outfit must be brought along by the traveler who wishes to work from lofty bivouacs. Swiss guides are available at Lake Louise, for expeditions long or short, and no more competent or agreeable companions could be desired. They have made a fine record in Canadian climbing history, practically all of the first ascents of important summits having been achieved by their aid. Their number is limited and the demand for their services great, so that arrangements should be made well in advance. In a book of this kind mistakes and defects are inevitable, particularly when it is the first in its field and has for its subject matter an immense, imperfecth^ explored mountain chain where the majority of the peaks are nameless. In part they will be due to our own ignorance, in part to lack of precision in the literature consulted, and in part to incorrect inter- pretation of the writings of others. We can only bespeak the indulgence of our fellow mountaineers and express the hope that, through their criticism and friendly cooperation, the most glaring errors and omissions may be remedied for the future. We acknowledge indebtedness to the works of Doctor J. Norman Collie, Sir James Outram, Pro- fessor A. P. Coleman, Mr. Walter D. Wilcox, the Dominion Topographical Survey, and particularly to the publications by the Alpine Club of Canada and by its indefatigable Director, Arthur O. Wheeler, Boundary Commissioner for British Columbia, who through his maps and explorations in the field has done yeoman service to lay open the treasures of this great range for the benefit of mountaineers. To Pro- fessor Charles E. Fay, climbers generally owe a debt PREFACE ix of gratitude for being one of the first to extol with voice and pen the claims of the Canadian Alps as a field for American mountaineers. " Appalachia, " of which Professor Fay has long been the devoted editor, was the first American periodical to print regularly accounts of ascents in the Canadian Rockies and to its teeming pages one must have constant recourse in tracing, the story of the conquest of the range. An- other pioneer, to whom present-day mountaineers owe much, is Mr. Samuel E. S. Allen. Of his early jour- neys and ascents around Lake Louise and to the south too little is heard now-a-days, for his accurate and detailed narratives are veritable foundation stones in the history of the mountains. Paradoxically enough, no peak of the range has been named in his honor and we take this opportunity of calling attention to the fact and of urging that the omission be remedied. In conclusion, we cannot emphasize too strongly that this book is, in the main, a digest of printed accounts of mountain climbs made by persons other than the authors. Accordingly, we are not able to vouch for the accuracy or the wisdom of the directions given. To the best of our knowledge and belief, they are substantially correct, but we can only offer them for what they may be worth as the best available. Where repeated ascents of a peak have been made, the Swiss guides generally have improved the original route. We would deprecate, therefore, the use of the book independently of their advice and cooperation, as such irQprovements seldom find their way into print. Howard Palmer J. Monroe Thorington New York City, June, 1921. Key Map to show S4 Location of Sections. LIST OF SECTIONS Part One INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY TO KICKING HORSE PASS SECTIONS PAGE I. — Akamina Pass TO Tornado Pass . . . i II. — Tornado Pass to Elk Pass . . . . 4 HI. — Elk Pass to S. Kananaskis Pass — ^Joffre Group 9 IV. — S. Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass — Sir Douglas Group. ..... 13 V. — Palliser Pass to White Man Pass — King Albert and Royal Groups . . . • 17 VI. — ^ White Man Pass to Simpson Pass — Assini- BOiNE Group . . . . . .21 VII. — Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass — Ball Group ....... 29 VIII. — Peaks in the Environs of Banff ... 33 IX. — Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass — Lake Louise Group ...... 38 X. — Ottertail Group — West of the Divide . 64 Part Two KICKING HORSE PASS TO FORTRESS LAKE XI. — Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass — Yoho- Waputik Group , . . . .71 xi xii LIST OF SECTIONS XII. — Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks, East of the Divide ....... 85 XIII. — Miscellaneous Groups, West of the Divide — Van Horne Group, etc. ... 90 XIV. — Howse Pass to Bush Pass — Freshfield Group 93 XV. — Bush Pass to Thompson Pass — Forbes-Lyell Group ....... 102 XVI. — Murchison Group, East of the Divide . 109 XVII. — Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake — Columblv Group . . . . . . .112 XVIII, — Wood River Group, West of the Divide . 121 Part Three YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION, FORTRESS LAKE TO JARVIS PASS XIX. — The Maligne Lake Country . . .128 XX. — Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass — Whirl- pool Group . . • . . . . 131 XXI. — Columbia-Fraser Divide, West of Atha- basca Pass . . . . . . 136 XXII. — Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass . . 138 XXIII. — Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass . .153 XXIV. — Moose Pass to Jarvis Pass — Robson, White- horn, LONGSTAFF, BeSS, AND SiR ALEXANDER Groups . .. . . , , -157 LIST OF AUTHORITIES (With Reference Abbreviations as Used in the Text) 1896 Camping in the Canadian Rockies. Reference by title W. D. Wilcox. Putnam. 1902 Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies. C. ^J. N. Collie and H. E. M. Stutfield. 1905 In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies. O. James Outram. MacMillan. 1909 The Rockies of Canada. - W. W. D. Wilcox. Second Edition. Putnam. 1909 Guide to the Lake Louise District. W. (LL). W. D. Wilcox. Putnam. 1911 Jhe Reeky Mountains of Canada. Alpina Americana No. 2. Alp. Amer. C. E. Fay. The American Alpine Club ($.85 postpaid, Williams & Wil- kins Co., Baltimore, Md.). 19 II The Canadian Rockies; Old Trails and New. Co. A. P. Coleman. Unwin. 1917 Alberta — B. C. Boundary Report and Atlas. ABC. Part I, 19 1 3-1 6. (Obtainable from the office of the Surveyor General, Ottawa, Atlas and Report $1.) 19 1 7 Description of and Guide to Jasper Park. JP. Department of the Interior, Ottawa. Annual Reports Dept. of the Interior. 1886-93. Rept. Dept. Int Alpine Journal. (London.) A. J Appalachia. (Boston.) Appal Canadian Alpine Journal. C. A. J Geographical Journal (London). G. J Year Book of the German-Austrian Club. D, O. A. V 191 6 "Recent Mountaineering in the Canadian Alps," by C. E. Fay. The Geographical Review, New York, vol. ii, p. 1-9. Map and illustrations. Annual Reports of the Minister of Lands, Victoria, B.C., 1913- 1920. (Annual Reports of Progress on the Interprovincial Boundary Survey.) {Note: — Names of Swiss guides are printed in italics.) xiii PRINCIPAL MAPS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES From the International Boundary to the Main Line of the Cana- dian Pacific Railroad. I. Atlas accompanying Report of Alberta-British Columbia Boundary Commission. Part I, 191 7. Procurable from the Surveyor General, Dept. of the Interior, Ottawa. Report and Atlas $1.00. Map in 16 sheets, loc. each. Scale 1 :62500. For the Canadian Pacific Railway Belt. (Twenty miles each side of the line: Lake Louise group, Yoho-Waputik group. Slate Mts., Sawback range, Banff, etc.) 1. Map of part of the Main Range of the Canadian Rockies adjacent to the Canadian Pacific railroad. Department of the Interior, 1903-7. (This map is contained in Alpina Americana, No. 2, 191 1, and in Wilcox's "Rockies of Canada," 1909.) Scale 1:160000. 2. Map of the Rocky and Selkirk Mts,, between latitude 50° 37' and 51° 44' N. and longitude 115° 55' and 118° 21' W. Department of the Interior, 1914. Scale i : 125000. Two sheets, the eastern is of the Rockies. 3. Rocky Mountains between latitude 51° and 53° 10' in two sheets. Department of the Interior, 1910. Scale i: 253440. 4. Sectional Map, Sheet No. 163. "Donald.-' Scale 1:190080. Rockies and Selkirks on one sheet with shading. 5c. Surveyor General, Ottawa. 5. Map of Rocky Mts. Park, 191 1. Scale 2 mi. = 1 in. Cov- ers Divide from Bow pass to Palliser pass and E. as far as Morley station on Can. Pac. R. R. XXV PRINCIPAL MAPS OP THE CANADIAN ROCKIES xv For the Mountains between the Canadian Pacific and Canadian National Railways. 1. As far as latitude of Bow pass, see maps above listed. 2. Maps accompanying Outram's "In the Heart of the Cana- dian Rockies." 1905. 3. Map accompanying Collie's and Stutfield's "Climbs and Ex- ploration in the Canadian Rockies." 1902. (Also in G. J., xxi, p. 588.) 4. Map accompanying Coleman's "The Canadian Rockies; Old Trails and New." 5. Sectional Map. Sheet No. 213. "Athabasca," 1914. Scale I: 190080. 5c. Surveyor General, Ottawa. 6. Map of central part of Jasper Park (6 sheets) by M. P. Bridgland, 1915. Scale i : 62500. 15c. per sheet. Same map on single sheet (Scale i: 125000), free. Depart- ment of the Interior. 7. Map of Yoho group. C. A. J., i. No. i, p. 151. 8. Sketch Map of Whirlpool sources. C. A. J., vi, p. 92. 9. SketchMapofMalignelake. C.A. J.,vandG. J.,xxxix,p.38o. 10. Map of Jasper Park. Scale 6 mi. = i in. Covers as far S. as Mt. Columbia. For the Mountains from Yellowhead Pass to Jarvis Pass. 1. Reference 6 above. 2. Preliminary map of the Canadian Rocky Mountains (52° 53' N. — 54° 9' N.) Scale 1:300000. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, New York, vol. xlvii. No. 7, 1915. 3. Map of area between Canadian National R. R's and Bess pass. G. J., xxxix, p. 238. 4. Topographical Map showing Mt. Robson and the Rocky Mountains adjacent to Yellowhead pass. A. O. Wheeler, 191 1, Scale 1 : 120000. Free, Surveyor General's office, Ottawa. Also in Can. Alp. Jour., vol. iv and Eng. Alp. Jour., vol. xxvi, p. 404, 191 2. 5. Sectional Map, Sheet No. 262. "Yellowhead," 19 16. Scale 1 : 190080. 5c. Surveyor General's office, Ottawa. CHIEF GROUPS SOUTH OF BANFF Part One INTERNATIONAL BOUNDARY TO KICKING HORSE PASS Sections page I.-^Akamina Pass to Tornado Pass. . . . i II. — Tornado Pass to Elk Pass. . . . 4 High Rock Range and Elk Mts. 1. Peaks on the Divide. 2, Other Peaks. III. — Elk Pass to Kananaskis Pass. .... 9 Joffre Group. 1. Peaks On the Divide. 2. Peaks East of the Divide. 3. Peaks West of the Divide. IV. — Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass .13 Sir Douglas Group. 1. Peaks On or Near the Divide. 2. Peaks East of the Divide. v.— Palliser Pass to White Man Pass. .17 King Albert Group. Royal Group. VI. — White Man Pass to Simpson Pass. . . .21 Assiniboine Group. 1. Peaks On the Divide. 2. Peaks East of the Divide. 3. Peaks West of the Divide. VII. — -Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass. . . -29 Ball Group. 1. Peaks On the Divide. 2. Peaks East of the Divide. 3. Peaks West of the Divide. VIII. — ^Peaks in the Environs of Banff. . . -33 IX. — 'Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass. . .38 Lake Louise Group. 1. Peaks On the Divide. 2. Peaks East of the Divide. 3. Peaks West of the Divide. X.— Ottertail Group, West of the Divide. . . .64 xvii] PART ONE SECTION I Akamina Pass to Tornado Pass The air-line distance from the International Bound- ary to Tornado pass approximates seventy-five miles. Broadly speaking, this section of the range lies be- tween the drainage of the Flathead and Elk rivers on the west and that of the Waterton and Livingstone rivers on the east. The principal passes crossing the Divide are Akamina, the Kootenay series (South, Middle, and North), Ptolemy, the Crowsnest series (Tent, Crowsnest, and Phillips), North Fork and Tornado. The average altitude of peaks on the Divide is under 9000', Mt. Ptolemy (9234'), the highest peak south of Crowsnest pass, and Mt. Erris (9320'), the highest peak north of that pass, being exceptions. East of the Divide, Mt. Blakiston (9600') is the highest summit in the area, while west of the Divide no peak reaches 9000'. The Crowsnest series of passes forms the divisional point between the Flathead range on the south and the High Rock range on the north. West of the Divide, the Government road to the International 2 AKAMINA PASS TO TORNADO PASS Boundary forms a convenient means of access to the peaks and passes of the Divide, while on the Alberta side, a pack-trail extends southward as far as North Kootenay pass. Outfits may be taken from Pincher station on the Canadian Pacific railroad to the In- ternational Boundary in about three days. From the Crowsnest area, pack-trails also extend northward, close to the Divide, and on both sides of it, by which North Fork and Tornado passes may be reached. Many of the trails are in bad condition ow- ing to fallen timber. Mt. Blakiston. 9600'. ABC p. 92. Sheet #1. East of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. of Akamina pass; S. of Blakiston brook. 5 mi. E. of S. Kootenay pass. Crowsnest Mt. 9138'. ABC, p. 62, Sheet #4. C. A. J., i, #1, p. 108; vii, p. 117. Isolated peak W. of the Livingstone range, 7 mi. N.E. of Crowsnest pass, E. of Continental Divide. 1904 E. Whymper, T. Wilson and two Swiss guides. Route I. From Coleman station, Canadian Pacific railroad, follow Old Man river for 5 mi. to W.; turn N. by a trail lead- ing to a deserted lumber camp. Work above timberline across W. slopes to base of cliffs at N. W. angle. A series of chimneys penetrates the first cliff belt (400') to shale slopes leading to final dome, 1000' above. Route 2. On the north a large couloir offers a passage through the cliff belt. Much loose stone. AKAMINA PASS TO TORNADO PASS Mt. Darrah. (Gable). 9038'. ABC, p. 71, 74. ABC, Sheet #3 (Gable Mt.). On the Continental Divide. 4 mi.S.E. of Corbin station, Canadian Pacific railroad. 19 14 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Erris. 9320'. ABC, p. 96, 105. Sheet #5. 3 mi. S. of North Fork pass. The highest point be- tween North Fork and Crowsnest passes. On the Continental Divide. 1914 Ascended by the ABC Boundary Commission to 9296'. Gould Dome. 9495'. ABC, Sheet #5. C. A. J., viii, p. 136. S. of Tornado pass. 2 mi. E. of North Fork pass. E. of Continental Divide. Mt. Ptolemy. (Mummy). 9234'. ABC, p. 60, 68. Sheet #4A. Apex of the Flathead range. 3 mi. E. of Ptolemy pass on the Continental Divide. 6 mi. S. of Crowsnest lake. . ' 19 14 ABC Boundary Commission. Unnamed. 9020'. ABC, Sheet #6. W. buttress of Tornado pass on Continental Divide. vSECTION II Tornado Pass to Elk Pass This section of the Continental Divide is essentially a single continuous ridge of peaks throughout. It comprises the High Rock range and the Elk mountains. The air-line distance is about forty-five miles. Tornado Mt. (10169O is the highest peak. The area is drained by the Elk, White, and Palliser rivers (Kootenay drainage) on the west and by the Living- stone and Highwood rivers (South Saskatchewan drainage) on the east. No glaciers are mapped on or near the Continental Divide north of the International Boundary until Mt. Cornwell (9832') is reached, a distance of approxi- mately one hundred miles. Mt. Cornwell is situated on the Continental Divide about midway between Tornado pass and Elk pass. Access to the southerly portion of the group may be had from the trail up Oldman river on the east and from trails in the valleys of Line creek and Fording river on the west. Further north there is a trail up the Highwood river on the east and a road up Elk river on the west. TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS (i) Peaks on the Divide Mt. Armstrong. 91 6i'. ABC, p. iii, 115. Sheet #7. 2 mi. N.E. of Fording River pass. E. of Mt. McLaren. 19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. Baril Peak. 9387'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #7. 2 mi. S.E. of Fording River pass. E. of Mt. CornwelL Beehive Mt. 9492'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #6. 8 mi. N. of Tornado pass, between Tornado Mt. and Mt. Lyall: Mt. Bishop. 9200'. ABC, Sheet #8. 4 mi. N.W. of Weary Creek gap. N.W. of Mt. McPhail. S.E. of Mt. Loomis. Mt. CornwelL- 9832'. ABC, p. 107. Sheet #7. S. buttress of Fording River pass. W. of Baril peak On the northerly flanks of this mountain occur the first mapped glaciers on the Continental Divide N. of the International Boundary. Mt. Etherington. 9300'. ABC, Sheet #7. 5 mi. S. of Fording River pass. S. of Baril peak. N. of Mt. Scrimger. ' Mt. Farquhar. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #7. N. of Mt. Pierce. TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS Mt. Gass. 9450'. ABC, Sheet #6. N.W. of Mt. Lyall, between Chauncey creek and Oldman river sources. Mt. Loomis. 9100'. ABC, Sheet #8. N.W. of Mt. Bishop. Mt. Lyall. 9680'. ABC, Sheet #6. 10 mi. N. of Tornado pass. S.E. of Mt. Gass. The highest peak between Tornado Mt. and Fording River pass. Mt. McHarg. 9476'. ABC, p. 129, 131. Sheet #10. 2 mi. S.W. of S. Kananaskis pass. N.W. of Mt. Defender. 1916 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. McLaren. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #7. 4 mi. N. of Fording River pass. N.W. of Mt. Armstrong. Mt. McPhail. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #8. N. of Weary Creek gap; the S. peak of the Elk Mountains. S.E. of Mt. Bishop. Mt. Pierce. 9350'. ABC, Sheet #7. S. of Mt. Farquhar. N. of Mt. O'Rourke (8500'). The high- est summit is W. of the Divide. Mt. Scrimger. 9000'. ABC, Sheet #7. 8 mi. S. of Fording River pass. S. of Mt. Etherington. Mt. Storelk. 9405'. ABC, p. 115. Sheet #9. 5 mi. S.E. of Elk pass. S-.E. of Mt. Tyrwhitt. 1916 ABC Boundary Commission. TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS Tornado Mt. {Gould Dome). 10169'. ABC, p. 102, 105.- Sheets #5A and #6. C. A. J., viii, p. 136. E. buttress of Tornado pass. The highest peak of the High Rock range. The first peak over loooo' N. of U. S. Boundary; 70 mi. distant from same. 19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Tyrwhitt. 9428'. ABC, p. 1 19. Sheets #9 and #9A. S. buttress of Elk pass. N.W. of Mt. Storelk. 19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission, Unnamed. ABC, Sheet #6. ABC, p. 107. 1. Between Tornado Mt. and Beehive Mt.: Peaks: 9600', 9200', 9800', 9200', 9400', 9100', 9600'. 2. Between Beehive Mt. and Mt. Lyall: Peak: 9000'. Grey limestone peaks with knife-edge ridges. Pre- cipices on the Alberta vside and very little permanent snow. (2) Other Peaks Mt. Arethusa. 9050'. ABC, Sheet #9. 4 mi. N.E. of Elk pass. N.E. of Mt. Tyrwhitt. E. of Highwood pass (Storm creek-Pocaterra creek). Mt. Courcelette. 9977'. ABC, p. 84, 108, no. Sheet #7. 4 mi. S. W. of Fording River pass. S.W. of Mt. Cornwell in N.E. angle between Henretta creek and Fording river. W. of Continental Divide. 19 1 5 ABC Boundary Commission. TORNADO PASS TO ELK PASS Mist Mt. 10030'. ABC, p. III. Index Sheet. E. of Mist and Storm creeks. E. of Continental Divide. Mt. Rae. 10160'. ABC, Index Sheet. E. of Continental Divide. E. of Kananaskis river, N. of High wood pass. SECTION III Elk Pass to South Kananaskis Pass. (Mt. Joffre Group) This fine cluster of peaks lies between Elk pass and South Kananaskis pass, a distance of about fifteen miles as the water-parting runs. The group occurs at a sharp angle in tHe Divide where it transfers from one element of the parallel series of ranges that constitute the typical formation of the Rockies to the next westerly element. The culminating summit is Mt. Joffre (11316O. Glaciers are numerous and extensive on the higher slopes and here the snow and ice scenery so character- istic of the loftier portions of the Canadian Rockies may be said to commence. It extends almost contin- uously to the Mt. Bess group two hundred and sixty miles to the north. On the northeasterly flanks of the group lie the attractive Kananaskis lakes, while across the Divide to the south are the smaller Elk lakes whence the Elk river flows. The best route of approach is from Banff by way of 9 lo MT. JOFFRE GROUP the Spray and Kananaskis rivers to Elk pass. Six days should be allowed for the pack-train journey. There is also a good trail from Morley on the Canadian Pacific to the Kananaskis lakes. On the west, a trail from upper Columbia lake leads up the Kootenay and Palliser river valleys and branches up Joffre creek, draining the westerly flanks of the group. (i) Peaks on the Divide Mt. Cordonnier. 9910'. ABC, Sheet #10. E. of Joffre creek. S. of Mt. Warrior. N. of Mt. Mangin. Mt. Foch. 10430'. ABC, Sheet #9. 5 mi. W. of Elk pass. N.E. of Mt. Petain. W. of Mt. Fox. S. of upper Kananaskis lake. Mt. Fox. 9752'. ABC, Sheet #9. Between Elk pass and Mt. Foch. Mt. Jofifre. 11316'. ABC, p. 126, 128. C. A.J., xi, p. 19. Sheets #9 and #10. 50 mi. S. of Banff. S. E. of Mt. Mangin. S. W. of Mt. Petain. Head- waters of White river. The highest peak of the Divide between the International Boundary and Mt. Assiniboine. The large glacial system on the E. sup- plies the farthest sources of Elk river. 19 19 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. From camp on Hidden lake, 6 mi. N. of Mt. Joffre and inmiedi- ately N. E. of Mt. Lyautey proceed through dense timber, alders and scrub. A level about 500', above camp is reached and a gradually ascending route taken toward the peak; 3 hrs. to MT. JOFFRE GROUP ii timberline and 45 min. longer to the edge of the Mangin glacier. Rope at about 9500', the route over the glacier gradually bearing to the left to the rocks. A steep wall is ascended to a snow saddle in the N. E. arete from whence the summit is reached without difficulty. Ascent from camp 7 hrs., 10 min. Descent from peak to the glacier in 2 hrs. 15 min. Total time from camp 12 hrs. 45 min. Mt. Mangrn. 10030'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. W. of Mt. Joffre. S. E. of Mt. Cordonnier. Head of Man- gin glacier. Mt. Petain. 10400'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. E. of Mt. Joffre. Head of Petain glacier. Mt. Warrior. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. of Mt. Cordonnier. Head of Aster creek. (2) Peaks East of the Divide Mt. Lyautey. 9990'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. W. angle between Foch creek and upper Kananaskis river. Head of Lyautey glacier. N. E. of Mt. North- over. Mt. Marlborough. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. of Mt. Petain at head of Foch creek. Mt. Northover. loooo'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. W. of Mt. Lyautey. N. of Mt. Warrior. W. of Aster creek. Mt. Sarrail. 10400'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of upper Kananaskis lake. Adjoins Mt. Foch on N. 12 MT. JOFFRE GROUP (3) Peaks West of the Divide Mt. Abruzzi. io7oo\ ABC, Sheet #9. Head of Abruzzi creek, between Elk and White rivers. S. E. of Mt. Cadorna. Mt. Aosta. 9790'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of Elk lakes N. E. of Mt. McCuaig. Mt. Cadorna. 10280'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. of Cadorna lake. E. of White river. N. of Mt. Abruzzi. Mt. Castelnau. 9800'. ABC, Sheet #9. S. W. of upper Elk lake. S. E. of Mt. Petain. N. E. of Mt-" Nivelle. Head of Castelnau glacier. (White river.) Mt. Defender. 9250.' ABC, Sheet #10. 4 mi. S. of S. Kananaskis pass. S. of Mt. McHarg. Mt. McCuaig. 9300.' ABC, Sheet #9. W. of Nivelle creek. E. of Mt. Nivelle. S. E. of Mt. Castelnau. Mt. Nivelle. 10620.' ABC, Sheet #9. S. W. of Mt. Castelnau. S. E. of Mt. Joffre between upper Elk lake and White river. Mt. Onslow. 9150'. ABC, Sheet #10. S. of Mt. Defender. N. E. angle between Joffre creek and Palliser river. SECTION IV South Kananaskis Pass to Palliser Pass. (Sir Douglas Group) The Mt, Sir Douglas group occupies about eight miles of the Continental Divide between the South Kananaskis pass and Palliser pass. The principal peaks occur in a compact cluster some three miles east of Palliser pass, culminating in Mt. Sir Douglas (11174'). The group is drained by the Spray and Kananaskis rivers on the east and the Palliser river on the west. Palliser pass connects the- sources of the Spray and Palliser rivers. The group is reached by branch trails from the Kananaskis lakes, the latter connecting with the Canadian Pacific railroad by good trails to Banff and Morley stations. (i) Peaks On or Near the Divide Mt. Beatty. 9841'. ABC, 132, 136. Sheet #10. C. A. J., xi, p, 17. Between N. and S. Kananaskis passes. 1916 ABC Boundary Commission. 13 14 SIR DOUGLAS GROUP 1919 J. W. A. Hickson, A. C. Stead, E. Feuz, Jr. From camp at head of LeRoy creek under W. side of the mount- ain, 3 hrs. easy cHmbing to the ridge. Follow N. ridge to the summit. Interesting climbing. Rope advisable. Mt. Sir Douglas. 11 174'. ABC, 134, 135. Sheet #11. C. A. J., xi, p. 9. A. J., xxxiii, p. 204. 3 mi.E of Palliser pass. Between Mt. Williams and Mt. Robertson. The highest peak between Palliser and N. Kananaskis passes. 19 19 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. Route I. From camp i mi. N. of Palliser pass, cross the valley to E. and reach the N. W. side of the mountain. Here two parallel glaciers descend to 7500' and 7000' respectively. Ascend the western glacier; easy going for a half hour, after which the snow becomes hard and steep. Bear to the right through crevasses (2 hrs.) to a point near the top of the glacier where a traverse is made on steep ice (nearly 60°) to the W. arete (5 hrs. from camp). The arete is shaly and rotten; some steep pinnacles must be circumvented. Follow the ridge for a half hour, then traverse a short distance to the right and ascend a big couloir up the W. face. From the top of the couloir traverse to left and ascend a short couloir to loose rocks below the first summit (7 hrs. 15 min. from camp). The E. and highest summit (lOo' higher) is quickly reached over a sharp rock ridge. Descent to foot of glacier 2 hrs. 45 min.; total from camp 12 hrs. Route 2. Incomplete ascent via the S. W. ridge and S. face. 19 19, V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. The S. W. ridge could not be followed throughout its entirety because of an impassable gen- darme in its upper portion. A traverse was made to steep and difficult rock on the S. face and a point about 700' below the summit gained. Mt. Leroy. 9650.' ABC, Sheet #10. 2 mi. S. E. of Palliser pass at head of Palliser river. SIR DOUGLAS GROUP 15 Mt. Maude. 9980'. ABC, Sheet #10. N. but- tress of N. Kananaskis pass. S. of Mt. Robertson. Mt. Monro. 10145'. ABC, Sheet #11. A. J., xxxiii, p. 205. W. and S. of Continental Divide. 3 mi. E. of Palliser pass. S. of Mt. Sir Douglas. A rock peak probably difficult on the S. W. Mt. Robertson, 10400'. ABC, Sheet #11. N. of Mt. Maude. E. of Mt. Sir Douglas. Mt. Williams. 9000'. E. buttress of Palliser pass. W. of Mt. Sir Douglas. ABC, Sheet #11. (2) Peaks East of the Divide Mt. Birdwood. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #11. 4 mi. N. E. of Spray pass. 6 mi. N. of Palliser pass. S. E. of Mt. Smuts. Head of Birdwood creek. Mt. Burstall. 9050'. Between Burstall and French creeks. 4 mi. N. E. of Palliser pass. ABC, Sheet #11. Mt. French. 10610' ABC, Sheet #11. Head of upper Kananaskis river, between Mt. Robertson and Mt. Smith-Dorrien. 3 miles N. E. of Palliser pass. Mt. Jellicoe. 10065'. ABC, Sheet #11. ABC, p. 135. Head of upper Kananaskis river. S. E. of Mt. Sir Douglas. Boundary Survey Camera Station. 1 6 SIR DOUGLAS GROUP Mt. Murray. 9920'. ABC, Sheet #11. S. angle between French creek and upper Kananaskis river. N. of Mt. Smith-Dorrien. Mt. Putnik. 9550'. ABC, Sheet #10. 2 mi. E. of S. Kananaskis pass. N. W. an2:le between Three Isle creek and upper Kananaskis river. Mt. Smith-Dorrien. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #11. Head of upper Kananaskis river. N. E. of Mt. French. Mt. Smuts. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #11. A. J., xxxiii, p. 195. Between Spray and Kananaskis rivers, N. W. of Mt. Birdwood. Looks difficult from Palliser pass. SECTION V Palliser Pass to White Man Pass. (King Albert and Royal Groups) (The King Albert Group) The King Albert group includes the peaks on and near the Continental Divide between Palliser pass and White Man pass, a distance of about six miles: Mid- way between the two, Spray pass crosses the Con- tinental Divide. The King Albert massif serves as a connecting link between the Royal group and the Continental Divide. The route of approach is from Kananaskis lakes by way of the Spray river trail. Mt. King Albert. 98oo^ ABC, p. 138. Sheet #1 1 . 2 mi. W. of Palliser pass. W. of Mt. Queen EHzabeth on the Continental Divide. Mt. Back. 9883'. ABC, p. 138, 139. Sheet #10. 2 mi. S. W. of Palliser pass. S. W. of Mt. King Albert. S. of the Divide. Between Albert and Palliser rivers. 19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. 17 i8 THE ROYAL GROUP Mt. Queen Elizabeth. 9349'. ABC, p. 138, 139. Sheet #11. W. buttress of Palliser pass. E. of Mt. King Albert. On the Continental Divide. 19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Vavasour. 9350'. ABC, Sheet #11. W. of Spray river, 2 mi. N. of Spray pass and 3 mi. S. E. of White Man pass. E. of the Divide. Mt. Warre. 9050'. ABC, Sheet #11. 2 mi. E. of White Man pass. S. angle between White Man creek and Spray river. E. of the Divide. Mt. White Man. 9768'. ABC, p. 140. Sheet #11. S. of White Man pass. On the Continental Divide, head of Cross river. (The Royal Group) This is a notable group of seven distinct peaks situ- ated "eight miles almost due south from Palliser pass> on the west side of the Palliser river which separates it from the northerly ridges of the Mt. Joffre group, lying to the east of that river. Its towers, precipitous walls, and glaciers make it a landmark from all sides. It is distant about eight miles southwesterly from the Continental Divide to which it is joined by the south- erly ridges of the King Albert group. The Royal group is best reached from Palliser pass, but is not visible from this pass, being hidden by two unnamed peaks on Tipperary creek adjoining Mt. THE ROYAL GROUP 19 Back on the S. E. The northern of these two peaks was traversed from S. E. to N. W. in 1919 by V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer, and party. From PalHser pass, a good trail leads down the western slope to Palliser lake; below this the trail is poor, with much fallen timber, iintil the mouth of Tipperary creek is passed. Camp on south side of Royal creek. Mt. King George. 11226'. ABC, p. 131, Sheet #10. C. A. J., xi, p. 28. A. J., xxxiii, p. 195-206. W. of Palliser river, 7 mi. S. W. of Palliser pass, 45 nii. S. of Banff. 19 19 V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. Ascend ridge guarding S. side of Royal valley; much fallen timber; 2}i hrs. to timberline. Bivouac in first gorge W. of Royal valley. Cross grass, scree, and snow patches to foot of steep rock wall, above which is a small sheltered valley with a few trees. A snow couloir, some steep rocks, and a traverse eastward, lead to this basin whence flats E. of Mt. Prince George are reached without difficulty (2 hrs. 20 min.). Traverse loose shale to small glacier and skirt same along its northern edge until the S. ridge of Mt. Prince George is reached. Cross to the King George glacier and ascend into the cirque between Mts. King George and Prince Albert {^}4 hrs.). Cross large bergschrund (often difficult) with steep ice above, leading to a firm but steep rock rib, just north of the hanging glacier on the E. face of Mt. King George. The upper portion of the rock rib is brittle and an ice ridge (step- cutting) leads to the main N. arete. {2% hrs.) Thence the summit is reached (2 hrs.) over fairly difficult rock and snow. Ascent from bivouac, 1 1 hrs. ; descent 7 hrs. Mt. Prince Albert. 10530'. , Both peaks can be easily reached from the head of King George glacier. 20 THE ROYAL GROUP Mt. Prince Edward. 10590'. The best climb after Mt. King George. Reached from Royal valley, up E. face to gap between it and Mt. Prince Henry, whence either peak can be gained by traversing to their W. aretes. Mt. Prince George. 9450'. A shale slope on S., side; can be easily climbed. Mt. Prince Henry. 10560'. See Mt. Prince Edward. Mt. Prince John. 10570'. A secondary summit of Mt. Queen Mary and can readily be reached from summit of the latter. Mt. Princess Mary. 10090'. A good but not difficult climb. Could be reached from King George glacier via the N. ridge. Mt. Queen Mary. 10600'. The N. peak of the group. Could be reached from Palliser pass and climbed from a bivouac on the pass, N. of the peak. The easiest approach is from the W., with the next best route from the N. E. (See also Mt. Prince John). SECTION VI White Man Pass to Simpson Pass (Assiniboine Group) The Assiniboine group is one of the most famous in the Canadian Rockies owing to its comparative ease of access and to the enchantment of its scenery. It is situated eighteen miles southwest of Banff. Mt, Assiniboine (11870') rises in a striking pyramid high above its neighbors and is visible from vast distances on every side. The passes of the Divide are White Man, Wonder, Assiniboine, Citadel, and Simpson. A number of peaks in the group remain unclimbed. The group is reached from Banff by either of two routes, each requiring about three days' travel with a pack outfit. The west route follows the Bow valley and Healey creek towards Simpson pass. Four miles below the summit of the latter a trail branches south and, after four miles more, joins the Simpson pass trail, leading southeasterly to the mountain across Citadel pass. The east route follows the Spray river and then up an eastern tributary to Spray lakes; thence via the Spray river and Bryant creek, crossing the 2X 22 ASSINIBOINE GROUP watershed at Assiniboine pass and joining the Simpson river trail. (i) Peaks On the Divide Mt. Assiniboine. 11870'. ABC, p. 48. A. J., xviii, p. 397; xxi, p. 102. Appal., x, p. 43; xii, p. 233. C. A. J.,i, #i,p. 90;ii, #i,p. 10. 0.,p. 38. W., p. 109. Continental Divide. Highest peak between Inter- national Boundary and the Canadian Pacific railroad. Headwaters of Spray, Cross, and Simpson rivers. 1901 J. Outram, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. Route I. Via the S. W. face. From camp on Lake Magog, cross flats to the first snow (20 min.), then up hard steep slopes and a craggy wall to loose debris and ice of the N. glacier. Cross the glacier to the Assiniboine- Wedgwood col, 9200', (Outram's " ist pass"; 40 min.); descend slightly on the far side to the glacier and cross to the Assiniboine-Sturdee col (Outram's -'2nd pass," 9600'), at the base of the W. arete. At this level, traverse narrow but not difficult ledges across the S. W. face to the S. W. ridge (9500'). From this point (4.5 hrs.) ascend ledges of debris and loose rock to the foot of a 70' cliff wall (at about 10750'). A short distance N., a broad snow couloir, trending upward toward the Assiniboine-Lunette depression, is crossed to a point where the cliff recedes and merges into the S. W. face. The face is as- cended diagonally over steep ledges and escarpments, interspersed with slopes of ice and snow (step-cutting). The S. arete is reached at a point 300' below the summit which is then gained by means of an easy ridge of snow. Ascent from Lake Magog, 10 hrs. ; from 9500' on S. W. arete, 5.5 hrs. Descent by Route 2, 6 hrs. 1903 W. Douglas, C. Hdsler f C. Kaufmann. O., p. 71. A. J., xxxiii, p. 207. Route 2. Via the N. arete. This was the route of descent taken ASSINIBOINE GROUP 23 by Outram. It should only be attempted when the snow is in good condition. The N. glacier is reached from Lake Magog and is crossed, the general line of ascent being the narrow ar^te in the center of the face. From Lake Magog to foot of Wedgwood peak, 20 min. ; up rocks of somewhat steep wall, traversing gradually .to S. E. (left) to reach glacier at north foot of moun- tain: (2 hrs. 50 min.). Lowest rocks of N. ridge in 45 min. ; ascend via N. W. face, gradually working onto the N. ridge and follow- ing it to the sumxmit. Two almost perpendicular cliffs divide the face and ridge into distinct sections, the rock walls affording good climbing. The ridge above the second cliff also offers good climbing, but the remainder is, as a rule, quite easy. Ice usually necessitates much step- cutting. To lower rocky N. summit, 5.5 hrs. ; main summit 40 min. more. Descent to wall of Wedgwood peak, including i hr. on N. summit, 6 hrs. The ascents from A. C. C. camp 1920 were all made by this route which under favor- able snow conditions is considered easier and shorter than Route I. Several ascents in 1920 were made via the N. arete in slightly more than 3.5 hrs. from the N. glacier, or in a little over 6 hrs. from camp on Lake Magog. 1910 T. G. Longstaff, R. Aemmer. C. A. J., iii, p. 174. Route 3. Via the N. W.face. To the Assiniboine-Sturdee col at the base of the S. W. arete as in Route i. Traverse back, up the steep snow of the N. W. face (step-cutting) and via the middle of the face to avoid ice couloirs. Constant step-cutting except for two vertical 15' bands of rock. The final cliff is almost devoid of handholds for the first 12' and the rocks are usually icy. 60' above, step-cutting over steep snow leads to the summit. Ascent from Lake Magog, 9 hrs. ; descent by Route 2, 11 hrs. Mt. Aye. 10640'. ABC, p. 52, 146. S. of Lunette peak. N. W. of Mt. Eon. Mt. Cautley. 9418'. ABC, p. 148, S. E. buttress of Assiniboine pass, N. of Wonder peak. 24 ASSINIBOINE GROUP Mt. Eon. 10680'. ABC, p. 52, 146. 3 mi. W. of Marvel pass. S. E. of Mt. Aye. S. W. of Mt. Gloria. Fatigue Mt. 9667'. R. D. I., 1890, ii, p. 45. ABC, 50, 56. Sheet #13. Between Citadel and Fatigue passes, head of Fatigue creek. 1889 W. S. Drewry. Mt. Gloria. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #12. W. but- tress of Marvel pass. N. E. of Mt. Eon. Lunette Peak. {Lost peak.) 11 150'. ABC, Sheet #12. O., p. 62. Highest point on the S. arete of Mt. Assiniboine. N. of Mt. Aye. 1901 J. Outram, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. From Lake Magog via the Wedgwood-Assiniboine and Sturdee- Assiniboine cols to the Assiniboine S. W. arete as in Route i for Mt. Assiniboine. From this point, ascend loose rock's and debris to the foot of the wall (at 10750'). Traverse the base of the wall for a short distance to S. where a narrow 15' chimney with firm holds permits an ascent. A narrow ridge running up from the W. to the summit of Lunette peak can now be reached over steep ledges and followed to the top. This summit was ascended by Outram in mistake for Mt. Assiniboine. Mt. Magog. 10050'. ABC, Sheet #12. N. E. of Mt. Assiniboine. W. of Mt. Terrapin. 1920 Graduating climb from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. 1920 Traverse of Naiset peak, Mt. Terrapin, and Mt. Magog by party under leadership of A. H. MacCarthy. From Lake Magog, ascend Naiset, a not difficult Qlimb, via the j^f., ASSINIBOINE GROUP 25 ridge. Descend the S. arete 600' to the Naiset- Terrapin col, ascending the latter peak by steep crags, an ice couloir and ledges. Descend W. arete of Terrapin to the Terrapin- Magog col ascend- ing the latter peak over rock and snow. Descend the S. arete, 700' of steep pitch, much overhanging, to the Magog-Assiniboine col whence the lake is regained. Rock is firm and climb un- usually interesting. Nasswald Peak. 9985'. ABC, p. 50. Sheet #13. S. E. buttress of Fatigue pass. Mt. Red Man. 9493'. ABC, p. 143, 144. Sheet #12. N. W. buttress of White Man pass. 19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Terrapin. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #i2A. N, E. of Mt. Magog. S. W. of Mt. Towers. 19 1 5 L. Jeffers, K. Kain. Mt. Towers. 9337'. ABC, p. 146. Sheet #12. W. buttress of Wonder pass. N. E. of Mt. Terrapin. 19 16 ABC Boundary Commission. Wonder Peak. 9300'. ABC, p. 51, 56. E. but- tress of Wonder pass. S. of Mt. Cautley. 1 9 13 ABC Boundary Commission. Unnamed. 9200'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. One of the Blue Mts. between White Man and Marvel passes. N. of White Man pass, the Divide crosses Mt. Red Man and reaches the peak, one mile further on. 26 ASSINIBOINE GROUP Unnamed. 9200'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. Be- tween White Man and Marvel passes. S. E. of Mar- vel pass, the Divide rises to Mt. Aurora (8500'), falls to a subsidiary col, crosses a double peak (9400') and reaches the peak under discussion, about halfway between Marvel and White Man passes. Unnamed. 9400'. ABC, p. 144. Sheet #12. S. E. of Marvel pass lies Mt. Aurora (8500'), beyond which is a subsidiary col. To the S. of the col lies a double peak, the highest summit being 9400', about 2 mi. S. of Marvel pass. (2) Peaks East of the Divide Mt. Allenby. 9500'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. E. of Assiniboine pass. N. E. angle between Allenby and Mercer creeks. Mt. Byng. 9760'. ABC, Sheet #12. 2 mi. E. of Marvel pass. N. W. of Mt. Currie. Mt. Currie. 9268'. ABC, p. 146. Sheet #12. 2 mi. N. of White Man pass. Between White Man and Currie creeks. 19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. Gibraltar Rock. 9418'. ABC, p. 56, 148. S. E. of Assiniboine pass. Culminates the N. E. arete of Mt. Cautley. 19 13 ABC Boundary Commission. ASSINIBOINE GROUP 27 Mt. Mercer. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. E, of Assiniboine pass. Head of Mercer creek. Mt. Morrison. 9350^ ABC, Sheet #11. W. of Spray riyer, between Mt. Turner and Currie creek. Mt. Turner. 9230'. ABC, Sheet #11. W. angle between Bryant creek and Spray river. N. of Mt. Morrison. (3) Peaks West of the Divide Mt. Alcantara. 9910'. ABC, Sheet #12. 3 mi. S. W. of Marvel pass. N. of Mt. Brussilof. Mt. Brussilof. 9990'. ABC, Sheet #12. 4 mi. W. of White Man pass. S. of Mt. Alcantara. Centurion Peak. 9900^ ABC, p. 151. Sheet #12. Between Mitchell river and Assiniboine creek. S. of The Marshal. S. W. of Mt. Sturdee. , 1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. Goats Tower. 92oo^ C. A. J., iii, p. 175. N. of Wedgwood peak terminating the long N. spur of Mt. Assiniboine. 19 10 T. G. Lon^staff, Miss Longstaff, R. Aemmer. Via the steep rocks of the N. W. face. Indian Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #13. W. of Ferro pass (Simpson river to Mitchell river) . S. W. of Nestor peak. No data as to first ascent; probably by the Dominion Land Survey. 28 ASSINIBOINE GROUP The Marshal. 10465'. ABC p. 151. Sheet #12. E. of Mitchell river, N. W. of Mt. Sturdee. 1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. Naiset Peak. 9050'. ABC, p. 147. Sheet #12. S. E. of Lake Magog. On N. arete of Mt. Terrapin. 1920 Ascended from camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. See Mt. Magog. Nestor Peak. 9250'. ABC, Sheet #12. N. E. of Ferro pass (Simpson river to Mitchell river). Nub Peak. 9016'. ABC, p. 56, 150. Sheet #12. 2 mi. W. of Assiniboine pass. Head of Sunburst valley (Mitchell river.) 19 1 6 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Sturdee. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #12. W. of Mt. Assiniboine, at the head of Assiniboine creek. 1920 Ascended frorn camp of the Alpine Club of Canada from Sturdee col and also via W. arete which is generally of good rock with difficult short stretches. Mt. Watson. 9550'. ABC, Sheet #12. S. angle between Wedgwood creek and Mitchell river. Wedgwood Peak. (Katherine.) 9300'. ABC, Sheet #J2. ABC, p. 150. C. A. J., iii, p. 175. S. W. of Lake Magog. N. W. of Mt. Assiniboine. 1910 T. G. Longstaff, Miss Longstaff, R. Aemmer. The Wedgwood-Assiniboine col is reached as in Route i for Mt. Assiniboine. From the col the arete is followed over several minor summits to the highest point. (The peak was traversed from W. to E.) SECTION VII Simpson Pass to Vermilion Pass (Mt. Ball Group) The air-line distance between these passes is about fourteen miles. Two minor passes, Ball pass (7300-) and Redearth pass (6800'), occur in the interval. Mt. Ball (10825') is the dominating peak. The whole east face of the group presents a precipitous rock escarpment hUng with glaciers which at Mt. Ball is nearly 4000' high. West of the watershed six great spurs reach out prominently. On the S. W. the group is bounded by the Vermilion river and on the N. E. by the Bow river. The group is reached from Vermilion pass on the Banff- Windermere motor road, seven miles south of Castle station on the Canadian Pacific railroad. Another route suitable for mountaineers leads from Moraine lake over Consolation pass to the Vermilion Pass road. (i) Peaks on the Divide Mt. Ball. 10825'. ABC, p. 39. C. A. J., i, #1, p. 85; V, p. 122. 2 mi. N. of Ball pass and Isabelle peak. S. of Storm Mt. W. of Shadow lake. 29 30 MT. BALL GROUP 1904 J. D. Patterson, C. Kaufmann. From Castle station, follow the road to Vermilion pass, crossing to camp 2 mi. beyond. (12 mi. from the railroad.) Ascend a draw towards S. E. past timberline, gaining a buttress N. W. of the peak and then up steep shale slopes to a snowfield which is crossed to the W. arete. Follow the arete to a small snow col which is crossed to the mass of the mountain. Keep to the rocks marking the W. edge of the snowfield and ascend to a saddle, 1 50' below the summit; then up snow- slopes to heavily corniced peak. Ascent from camp, 9^2 hrs.; descent, 5 hrs. including halts. Haiduk Peak. 9540'. ABC, p. 41. Culminates the Divide between Ball and Redearth passes. Isabelle Peak. 9600'. ABC, p. 40, 43. W. but- tress of Ball pass. S. of Mt. Ball. 1913 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Mitchell ca. I0000^ C. A. J., v,,p. 134, 136. On the Divide N. W. of Mt. Ball and S. of Storm Mt. 1901 E. Whymper and guides. Storm Mt. 10332'. ABC, p. 40. C. A. J., i, #1, p. 88. Rep. Dept. of Interior, 1890, ii, p. 45. iVnn. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1906-7, pp. 78, 81. W., p. 238. S. E. buttress of Vermilion pass. N. of Mt. Ball. 1889 W. S. Drewry, A. St. Cyr. ' ' Via creek on S. emptying into Vermilion river. Camp was made at timberline; 7 hrs. to summit next day. Cairn built on summit 12' high and 8' in diameter. A later ascent has been made in 5^2 hrs. from Vermilion pass; descent 2^ hrs. MT. BALL GROUP 31 (2) Peaks East of the Divide (These peaks are closely related to those of Section VIII following: ''Peaks in the Environs of Banff," q.v.). Mt. Bourgeau. 9575'. ABC, p. 47. Sheet #31. C. A. J., viii, p. 147. 4 mi. N. E. of Simpson pass. 8 mi. S. W. of Banff. 1890 J. J. McArthur. (No printed record available; information from Mr. T. E, Wilson of Banff.) Easily ascended from camp in Healy creek valley. Mt. Brett. 9750'. Sheet #14. Between Healy and Redearth creeks. N. W. of Mt. Bourgeau. S. of Pilot Mt. 1916 J. Outram, A. H. Bent, with Messrs. Ritchie, McClelland, and Hogeboom. From the A. C. C. camp on Healy creek via the westerly slopes (4 hrs.) and narrow western arete {i}A hrs.) (rope unnecessary). Return via long snow slopes where glissading allows descent of 1000' in ji hr. Copper Mt. 9130'. ABC, Sheet #14. W. angle between Redearth creek and Bow river. N. W. of Pilot Mt. Pilot Mt. 968o^ C. A. J., vii. p. 117. Sheet #14. S. angle between Redearth creek and Bow river. N. of Mt. Brett. Mt. Rundle. 9828'. A. J., xviii, p. 99. C. A. J., x, p. 80. 0.,p. 32. Blackwood's Magazine, June 1913, pp. 776-789. S. E. angle between Spray and Bow 32 MT. BALL GROUP rivers. No data as to first ascent. Via horse trail from Banff. (Mt. Assiniboine is visible). Ascent from Banff, 6 hrs. Three Sisters. 9733'. (N. peak.) O., p. 31. S. of Canmore station, Canadian Pacific Railroad. 1889 J. J. McArthur. (No printed record available; information from Mr. T. E. Wilson of Banff.) Wind Mt. loioo'. O., p. 31. Rept. Dept. Int., 1890, ii, p. 45. W., p. 238. S. E. of Canmore station, W. of Kananaskis river. 1889 A. St. Cyr, W. S. Drewry. Ascent made from White Man pass at S. W. foot of peak. 500' of short cliffs below the summit. (3) Peaks West of the Divide Monarch Mt. 9488'. Sheet #I3A. ABC, p. 43, 45, 56. C. A. J., viii, p. 147. 2 mi. S. W. of Simpson pass, in the angle between Verdant creek and the N. branch of Simpson river. 1 9 13 ABC Boundary Commission. Stanley Peak. 10311'. ABC, p. 38. Sheet #14. 4 mi. S. of Vermilion pass, just W. of the portion of the Divide between Mt. Ball and Storm Mt. 19 13 ABC Boundary Commission. SECTION VIII Peaks in the Environs of Banff Hereunder are listed certain scattered mountains which are naturally approached from Banff as a center. They lie mostly to the E. and N. of the Bow river. A number of peaks W. of the town which also could properly be included, here will be found in pages immediately preceding under the Mt. Ball group, "(2) Peaks East of the Divide." Mt. Aylmer. 10364'. C. A. J.,x, p. 83. 0.,p. 32. R. D. I., 1 891, ii, p. 50. 5 mi. N. of Lake Minnewanka, at sources of Ghost river. 1S39 J. J. McArthur. From Lake Minnewanka. Bonnet Peak. 10290'. R. D. I., 1890, ii, p. 45. N. of Castle station, C. P. R., 7 mi. S. E. of Mt. Doug- las. At sources of Johnson creek and Cascade river. 1890 A. St. Cyr. Cascade Mt. 9825'. O., p. 35. R. D. I., 1890, part ii, p. 45 (ascent by W. S. Drewry, 1889). C. A. J., vol. i, #1, p. 58. 4 mi. N. of Banff station. N. W. of 3 33 34 PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF junction of Cascade and Bow rivers. E. of Forty Mile creek. 1887 L. Stewart. (There is no printed record, but Mr. T. E. Wilson gives this information.) From Ban?, ascend valley of Forty Mile creek whence the long main S. W. arete may be gained and the summit reached. Climb is wearisome but without difficulty. (Mt. Assiniboine is visible.) Mr. A. H. MacCarthy reports S. E. arete a good climb with safe rock. Castle Mt. 9976'. Co., p. 42. 0., 78. N. W. angle between Johnson creek and Bow river. 1884 A. P. Coleman. From Castle station via the small valley leading E. and N. of the mountain. From its head, the only difficulty is a cliff belt (loose rock). The S. E. tower has never been climbed. Mt. Costigan. 9630'. Rocky Mountains map (Lat. 51° to 53°io'). Between the E. end of Lake Minnewanka and Ghost river. S. E. of Mt. Aylmer. Devils Head Mt. 9205'. W., p. 9. R. D. I., 1892, ii, p. 32. 7 mi. N. E. of Lake Minnewanka. N. of Ghost river. 1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. Partial ascent; attempt was unsuccessful because of precipices below summit. Mt. Edith. 8370'. C. A. J., ii, #r, p. 136. C, p. 218. O., p. 35. In N. W. angle between Forty Mile creek and Bow river. 1900 J. N. Collie, F. Stephens. From Banff follow the Bow valley past the Vermilion lakes PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 35 to the side valley W, of Mt. Norquay. Ascend nearly to the Edith-Norquay pass leading over to Forty Mile creek. Turn left and climb a gully of steep and rotten rock to the col between Mt. Edith and the next peak to N. (Mt. Louis). Cross the col to the W. side, making a series of traverses and ascending steep slabs g,nd gullies of rotten rock on the W. face to the summit. Hole-in-the-Wall Mt. 9183'. Map of the Rocky Mts. between Lat. 51° and 53°io'. N. of the Canad- ian Pacific railroad. Adjoins Mt. Edith on W. Mt. Girouard. 9^1 s' ■ Map reference as above. S. E. of Mt. Inglismaldie. Between the latter peak and Mt. Peechee. Mt. Inglismaldie. 97I5^ Map reference as above. Forms the S. bank of Lake Minnewanka. Mt. Louis. 8800'. A. J., xxxii, p. 68. C. A. J., viii, p. 79; ix, p. 32. W. of Forty Mile creek. The first tower N. of Mt. Edith. 1916 A. H. McCarthy, K. Kain. Mr. V. A. Fynn gives the following data (C. A. J. ix p. 32) : From Banff via the Edith-Norquay pass toward Forty Mile creek reach (2 mi. further on) the N. E. base of Mt. Louis at an altitude of 7000'. Ascend a chimney in the lower portion cf the E. face, avoiding steep slabs in its upper portion by a traverse S. Thence over ledges to a 10' wall above wet steep slabs, sur- mounted by the aid of a rope doubled around a rock jammed between these slabs and the main wall. Work upward and toward S. over easy ground to a smooth steep wall below the ridge separating the E. from the S. face. A chimney and a crack 36 PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF are descended to an easy ledge and a grassy platform on the S. face. To W. and 90' above, a narrow couloir is reached over steep rocks and ascended to within a short distance of the ridge dividing the E. from the S. face, whence the ridge itself is gained by way of the next parallel gully to W.; this requires a 12' "rope- off" to reach the bottom of the gully, which is then ascended to a large platform, 450' below the summit; A crack, about 12' deep and rising at an angle of 75° reaches to the final peak and is ascended, (i hr.) Ascent from point on E. face where climbing begins, 4 hrs. Mt. Louis is considered one of the most difficult rock climbs in the Canadian Rockies. Mt. Norquay. 8284'. C. A. J., viii, p. 79, 135. Adjoins Mt. Edith on E. From N. W. corner of second Vermilion lake, ascend rocks to E. ridge. A large gendarme is traversed to S. W. Easy going on the arete to the final tower which is ascended by a short, wide chimney. Ascent from the road to the summit in 4 hours. Panther Mt. 9595'. Map of the ROcky Mount- ains between Lat. 51° and 53°, 10'. Between the sources of the N. and S. branches of Panther river. 1 89 1 J. J. McArthur. No printed record; information from T. E. Wilson. Mt. Peechee. 9615'. Map reference as above. W. p. 9. S. of Lake Minnewanka. Adjoins Mt. Girouard on S. E. Saddle Peak. 9277'. Map reference as above. 5 mi. E. of Lake Minnewanka, between N. and S. forks of the Ghost river. PEAKS IN THE ENVIRONS OF BANFF 37 Sulphur Mt. 8030'. C. A. J., x, p. 80. S. W. of Banff village; meteorological station on the summit. Horse trail leads from Banff, via the sulphur pool and springs. A fine view of the Bow valley is obtained and of the peaks of the Continental Divide to the W. Ascent 43^ hrs. Mt. White. 913 1 ^ Map reference as above. N. E. of pass between Snow creek (Panther river) and Red Deer river. 9 mi. N. E. of Mt. McConnell. Unnamed. 10030'. R. D. I., 1891, ii, p. 44. Map reference as above. E. of Johnson creek and W. of pass connecting head of Forty Mile creek with Cas- cade river. 1890 W. S. Drewry. Note: — No attempt is made to classify the unnamed peaks in this area. Reference to Map of the Rocky Mountains between Lat. 5/° and^j°, 10' shows about fifty unnamed points, g-ioooo' in altitude. O.ily thz om mzniioned above is known to exceed loooo' . SECTION IX Vermilion Pass to Kicking Horse Pass (Lake Louise Group) The Lake Louise Group is bounded on the north and west by the main Hne of the Canadian Pacific railroad, along the Bow and Kicking Horse rivers; on the south by the Ottertail river and on the east by the Vermilion river. The peaks of the Continental Divide in this area include the majority of those bounding the Ten Peak, Paradise and Lake Louise valleys. The air-line distance is about nineteen miles, the Divide being crossed by the mountaineering passes of Boom lake Wenkchemna and Abbot. On the Divide, the average altitude is over loooo', Mt. Hungabee (i 1447') being the highest summit, although surpassed by Mt. Temple (11626'), lying to the east in Alberta. On the Divide, Mts. Deltaform, LefrOy, and Victoria also exceed iiooo', while in British Columhia, Mt. Huber (11041O and Mt. Biddle (10878') are the high- est peaks. The summits of this group are attainable in a single day from Chateau Lake Louise or from 38 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 39 Field, or by a night out at Lake O'Hara or Moraine lake camp. (i) Peaks on the Divide Boom Mt. 9007'. ABC p. 34. N. W. buttress of Vermilion pass. S. of Boom lake. E. of Chimney peak and Boom lake pass. Chimney Peak. 9840'. Appal, vii p. 129. C. A. J., iii, p. 75. The second summit S. of Middle pass and Mt. Quadra. 1910 T. G. Longstaff, E. O. Wheeler. From Consolation pass, round the S. E. shoulder of Mt. Bident to moraine of Boom glacier. Cross glacier to col between Chimney peak and Unnamed peak to N. Follow N. snow ridge to chimney in middle of N. cliff; this (60') is ascended for about 15' and thence via rocks on the left to its top. The N. arete is regained to the right via a short gully and followed to the summit. Ascent from moraine of Boom glacier, 3 hrs. Mt. Collier. {Nichols.) 10400'. A. J., xxii p. 73. C. A. J. ix p. 140, X p. 7. Between the N. peak of Mt. Victoria and Popes Peak. (Year unknown) Collier brothers. Route I. Via the Lake Louise trail and upper Victoria glacier to saddle between Victoria N. Peak and Mt. Collier. The snow arete is followed to the summit. Route 2. The S. E. face may be descended to the upper Victoria glacier. Ascent may be combined with that of Victoria N. Peak or with Popes peak. Ascent from the Victoria- Collier saddle, i hr. Total time from Lake Louise, 12 hrs. ; combined with Victoria N. peak, 15 hrs. 40 LAKE LOUISE GROUP Mt. Deltaform. {Peak Eight, Saknowa). 11225'. Appal. X p. 295. C. A. J. ii#2 p. 55;ivp. 143.. ABC p. 33. O. p. 135. W. p. 251. A. J. xxii p. 75. Between Mt. Neptuak and Mt. Tuzo. 1903 H. C. Parker, A. Eggers, C. Kaufmann, II. Kanfmann. Route I. From camp in Prospectors' valley (7500'), cross bould- ers and scree, skirting Neptuak Mt. to the middle of the S. W. base of Mt. Deltaform. Ascend a long broad snow couloir, partly by rocks on its sides, to steep but not difficult ledges. Then up a 40' chimney (few holds and many loose stones) to ledges and a shale bed leading to the S. arete opposite Mt. Tuzo. The last 1000' of ascent (2 hrs.) consists in following the arete toward the main peak and then traversing on the S. face. A buttress and several small gendarmes are passed, an ice couloir is traversed and the W. arete gained via a short chimney. Rocks of the final peak are surmounted by means of a narrow crack leading to easy snow-slopes and a pinnacle summit. The peak has the most rotten rock in the Lake Louise district; stone falls are fre- quent and dangerous. Ascent 8 hrs.; descent 6.5 less. Total time from camp near Eiffel lake, 26 hrs. Route 2. The N. W. arete may be gained by traversing Neptuak Mt. from the Wenkchemna pass and, while the intervening arete is difficult and the climb longer than by Route i, it is considered the safer way. Mt. Fay. (Peak One). I06I2^ A. J, xxii p. 333; xxiv p. 234. Appal xi p. 332. C. A. J. iii p. 192. O. p. 132. W. of Consolation valley, between Mt. Qua- dra and Mt. Little. 1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. Route I. Via the couloir between Peak 3 and Peak 4. Ascend the left side of the couloir partly on rock and partly on snow. PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 41 Cross the pass at the summit and traverse the snowfield around the base of Mt, Little to the foot of the peak whence snow slopes lead to the top. Route 2. From Moraine lake via Fay glacier W. of Mt. Babel. Ascend the glacier close to the rocks of Mt. Babel, which are utilized where possible, then by the margin of the ice fall (steep, step-cutting). On the rock ledges much loose stone and scree. Having passed the ice fall, the upper neve is traversed to the base of the peak {ca. 4 hrs.). Time to the summit 7>^ hrs.; descent to Moraine lake 4>^ hrs. This route is somewhat dangerous on account of possible ice falls from the upper glacier. Care must be taken not to ascend the rocks of Mt. Babel too far as cliffs cut off access to the upper snowfield. Route J. From Consolation valley, via Consolation and Middle passes and the S. glacier. Peak Five. 10018'. ABC Sheet #15. Alp. Amer. p. 18. Between Peaks 4 and 5. Peak Four. 10028'. Appal, x p. 92. Between Peaks Three and Five. 1 90 1 C. S. Thompson, G. T. Little, G. M. Weed, C. Kaufmann. By way of the E. snow slopes, reached via: Route I. Couloir from Moraine lake between Peaks 3 and 4. Route 2. The S. snow-slopes, by way of Consolation and Middle passes. Glacier Peak. 10831'. A. J. xxv p. 82. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 84; X p. 9. S. of Mt. Lefroy and N. of Ringrose peak. 1909 V. A. Fynn, A. R. Hart, C. A. Richardson, L. C. Wilson. Route I. From Lake O'Hara, follow trail to Lake Oesa (6990', 50 min.) . Thence over scree and a small glacier, the bergschrund of which is easily crossed to a deeply cut but not steep couloir 42 LAKE LOUISE GROUP leading to a gap in the main ridge between Glacier peak and Ringrose peak. Keeping close to rocks on N. side of the couloir, take to the face just below the gap but avoid traversing N. Near the main ridge is seen the mouth of a steep narrow ice couloir; gain the crest of the rib on the N. side of this couloir (over ex- tremely rotten rock) and bearing slightly N. attain the main arete, turning the last rocks on the N. over an ice slope covered with hard snow. Traverse to the faintly marked S. W. arete of the final peak and reach corniced summit. Ascent from Lake Oesa 4 hrs. 30 min.; descent, 2 hrs. 35 min. Total time from Lake O'Hara 10 hrs. 30 min. 19 1 8 V. A. Fynn, R. Aemmer. Route 2. From Paradise valley via the Horseshoe glacier. Cross bergschrund of the Horseshoe glacier and ascend steep slopes to a rock rib just S. of the snow couloir descending from the col between the N. peak of Ringrose and Glacier peak. Near upper portion of rib, traverse N., crossing the couloir and con- tinuing ascent close to its N. margin. The main arete is reached slightly N. of the col and is followed to the summit. The peak may be traversed by descending to Lake Oesa as in Route i. Ascent 7 hrs. 50 min. Mt. Hungabee. 11447'. ABC p. 33. AppaL X, p. 91, 291 ; xii.. p. 231. C. A. J., i, #1 p. 80; ii #2 p. 78. 0.,p. 138. A. J., xxii, p. 75; XXV, p. 88-9, 561. E. buttress of Opabin pass. S. of Ringrose peak. 1 903 H, C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaujmann. The following is abstracted from an account in the C. A. J. by Mr. V. A. Fynn: The S. W. face overlooking Prospectors valley extends from the W. ar^te at an angle just under 50° and is broken by three steep horizontal pitches. The first (8900') is the highest and easiest, with good rock. The second (9500') is vertical but is broken by a chimney usually filled with ice or snow. The third pitch PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 43 (10900') is steep but safe. Between the first and second pitches, the S. W. face is cut by five couloirs: the first loses itself in the W. arete below the second pitch; the second couloir breaks through the second pitch as the chimney referred to and continues through the third pitch to the main N. arete near the summit. The remaining couloirs do not break through the second pitch but are continued above it, losing themselves in the third pitch. All five couloirs break through the first pitch. Route I. From Opabin pass, ascend the W. arete, bearing S. over easy ledges until opposite the middle of the first couloir which is crossed to a ridge on the far side leading to the foot of the ice chimney in the second pitch. This main couloir may be followed to the N. shoulder at the base of the peak, the top being gained by traversing steep slopes below the summit arete. Route 2. This is merely a variation of i?OM/« 7 and is safer. From the ice chimney, above the second pitch, a short traverse is made to the rocks on S. side around a corner, whence the third pitch is surmounted by means of a rock couloir leading to the last steep slopes of the S. W. face (brittle rock with few holds) and the N. arete about 30' N. of and just below the summit. Ascent from Lake O'Hara, 8 hrs.; descent, 7 hrs. 45 min. From Lake O'Hara to Opabin pass and the foot of the W. arete 3Xhrs. A note on the ascent of this peak from the same side is supplied by Mr. Allen Carpe as follows: From Opabin pass ascend straight up the ridge over the intermediate shoulder for perhaps two-thirds of the height of the mountain. Here a quartzite band contain- ing conspicuous crystals will be encountered. Traverse to the left (north) and ascend obliquely towards the ridge leading up to the main shoulder of the mountain, N. of the summit. Proceed thence along the main ar^te (or slightly to the right of it) to the summit which is usually corniced. Note: The amount of snow and ice on the mountain varies greatly with the season; late in the summer very little ice and 44 LAKE LOUISE GROUP snow will be encountered on the west side where the routes above described lie. Mt. Lefroy. 11220'. A. J. xix p. 105; xxxii p. 74, Appal, viii p. 122, 133. ABC p. 33. C. A. J. i #1 p. 80. C. p. 16. O. p. 121. W. p. 40. E. buttress of Abbot pass. W. of The Mitre. N. of Glacier peak. 1897 J. N. Cohie, H. B. Dixon, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, C. L. Noyes, H. C. Parker, C. S. Thompson, J. R. Vanderlip, P. Sarbach. Via the Lake Louise trail and the lower Victoria glacier which is crossed to the snow-slopes between Mts. Lefroy and Victoria, leading to Abbot pass, 9588'. Thence via the W. face, a direct ascent is made toward the summit, over snow, ice, and out- cropping rock. The amount of difficulty is directly dependent upon the snow conditions. From Chateau Lake Louise to Abbot pass, 4-5 hrs. Pass to sum- mit, 3-4 hrs. The ascent has been combined with that of the main peak of Mt. Victoria in 22 hrs., total time from Chateau Lake Louise. (Cf. A. J. xxxii p. 74). 1919 A. H. MacCarthy and Mrs. A. H. MacCarthy. The mountain may also be ascended via the couloir or chirr ney that leads from the Victoria glacier through the basal cliffs to the glacier lying on the N. W. slope. Thence the N. arete is gained and followed in a generally S. direction to the summit. By this route Abbot pass is avoided entirely. Rock unstable and very treacherous. A waterfall is encountered on ascent and descent. Mt. Little. (Peak Two). 10293'. A. J. xxii p. 334. S. E. of No. 3 and between it and Mt. Fay. 1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. A. rock climb. Reached from Moraine lake via Consolation and Middle passes and the S. snowfield. PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 45 Neptuak Mt. {Peak Nine). 10607'. A. J. xxi p. 376. C. p. 315. O. p. 133. S. E. buttress of Wenkchemna pass. N. W. of Mt. Deltaform. 1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, H. Kaufmann. From Wenkchemna pass follow the crest of the jagged rocky N. W. arete with occasional traverses on the S. side to the summit rocks which are usually snow-covered. "Good hard scrambling all the way." The final rocks are troublesome and are best negotiated from the S. The peak is traversed in the ascent of Mt. Deltaform by the N. W. arete and is considered the safe way up the latter. There is a very fine view of Deltaform from the summit. Popes Peak. {Despine). 10376'. ABC, p. 30- C. A. J. iv p. 148, vi p. 251, X p. 7. W. p. 266. S. buttress of Kicking Horse pass, between Cataract brook and the Victoria glacier; No data as to first ascent. Route I. Via Ross lake and the N. glacier. Route 2. Via the S. E. face from the upper Victoria glacier, reached by way of the Lake Louise trail and the S. E. slopes of Mt. Whyte. Route 3. Via the S. W. ar^te from the summit of Mt. Collier. Ascent from Lake Louise with traverse of Mt. Collier, 12 hrs. Mt. Quadra. 10410'. Appal., xii, p. 236. C. A. J, iii p. 52. S. E. of Mt. Fay. N. of Middle pass. 1910 J. W. A. Hickson, A. M. Gordon, F. C. Bell, E. Feuz, Jr., G. Feuz. Route I. Via Consolation valley and pass to the S. side of Mt. Bident. Cross snowfield to Middle pass (9500'), just S. of Mt. 46 LAKE LOUISE GROUP Quadra's main peak. Thence over snow and boulders, followed by short bits of rock climbing in the S. arete to the summit. The last portion of the arete demands care because of rotten rock. The three remaining lower peaks may be traversed by following the arete E. toward Mt. Bident. The last two sum.mits are difficult, the final one being more accessible from the Bident- Quadra col. Route 2. Descent from the highest peak may be made to Middle pass, whence the snowfield leading to Mt. Fay is reached; circling this mountain and crossing to the Fay glacier and a shoulder of Mt. Babel, shale slopes can be followed to Consolation valley. This route is much longer than Route i. Consolation pass to highest summit, 2 hrs. 10 min. Traverse of remaining summits, 3 hrs. 30 min. Ringrose Peak. 10755'. A. J. xviii p. 116, xxv p. 81. Between Glacier peak and Mt. Hungabee. 1909 V. A. Fynn, E. F, Pilkington. There is a N. and S. summit, of which the latter is the higher. S. of the higher summit is a prominent gendarrhe on the main arete, which drops abruptly to the Ringrose-Hungabee col. The S. W. face presents two couloirs, the first descending from the main arete, S. of the N. peak; the second descending from the arete just N. of the gendarme. Both couloirs converge in a snow- slope at the foot of the S. W. face. The S. W. face is reached from the Opabin glacier by a broad snow covered ledge rising N. in the direction of the Ringrose- Yukness col. At a point just below the higher summit ascend the face between the two couloirs (not difficult; falling stones) to a ledge about halfway up the face, traversing to cross the main S. couloir to the rib on its S. side. This rib separates the S. couloir from a steep curving gully, partly filled with snow, rising at first toward the Ringrose-Hungabee col and then swinging back toward the Ringrose S. peak to be joined by an ice chimney PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 47 descending on the S. side of the gendarme of the main ar^te. The rib is followed and the gully crossed above its juntion with the ice chimney, keeping close to the rocks on the N. side of the latter until further progress toward the main arete becomes impossible without crossing the chimney. Thence via a difficult irregular crack in the brittle rock, gain the crest of the rib and again reach the main S. couloir which here divides into two branches, one running toward the main peak and the other away from it toward the S. Cross the near branch and ascend to the main arete by the buttress between the two branches, striking it between the gendarme and the S. peak. An easy wall is fol- lowed by a narrow, nearly level arete to the summit, the last difficulty being an 8' "Gabel" or depression, about 25' deep, which must be negotiated with care because of loose rock. As- cent from Lake O'Hara 7 hrs. ; descent 5 hrs. Peak Six. 10520'. A. J. xxii p. 334. S. E. of Mt. Tuzo and between it and Peak No. 5. 1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. Route I. From the col between Peaks No. 3 and 4, skirt Peaks No. 4 and 5 on S. Traverse to the W. arete and ascend via steep rotten rock. Route 2. The W. arete may be reached via Consolation and Middle passes and the S. snowfield. Peak Three. 10088'. Appal, x p. 92. Directly S. of Moraine lake, between Mt. Little and Peak No. 4. 1901 G. M. Weed, G. T. Little, C. S. Thompson, H. Kaujmann. Via the W. snow-slope reached : Route I. By way of the col between Peaks 3 and 4, from Moraine lake. Route 2. By way of Consolation and Middle passes and the S. snowfield. 48 LAKE LOUISE GROUP Mt. Tuzo. 10648'. ABC Sheet #15. E. of Mt. Deltaform. N. W. of Peak No. 6. Probably as- cended by Miss Tuzo but date and particulars are lacking. Mt. Victoria. (Green). 11355'. (South Peak). A. J. xviii, p. 100. Appal, ix p. i, 21, 97. ABC, p. 33. C. p. 23. W. (LL), p. 12. Continental Divide, N. W. of Abbot pass and Mt. Lefroy. 1897 J. N. Collie, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, P. Sarbach. Route I. Via Abbot pass. Traverse the Lake Louise trail and the lower Victoria glacier; ascend steep neve between Mts. Lefroy and Victoria to summit of Abbot pass. (9588'; 4-5 hrs.) Thence N. W. over steep and broken rock until the main arete is reached. This is followed to the summit, traversing the top of the snow- slopes on the Lake Louise side where necessary. Ascent from Lake Louise, 8 hrs.; descent, 6 hrs. Has been combined with ascent of Mt. Lefroy; total time, exclusive of halts, 22 hrs. A descent may be made directly to Lake O'Hara, without return- ing to Abbot pass. Leave the ridge of Victoria about 500 yards south of the summit and descend easy rocks and snow towards the southwest. Skirt the west base of Mt.Huber to the depres- sion between Huber and the Wiwaxy peaks. Descend the gully and through woods to the east end of Lake O'Hara and thence around south shore to the cabin. Avoid the north shore of the lake. This is just the reverse of Route 2. Route 2. From the S. C. A. J. ii No. 2 p. 100. 1909 J. P. Forde, A. M. Gordon, M. Goddard, Mrs. A. H. Mc- Carthy. From E. end of Lake O'Hara, ascend to saddle between Mt. Huber and the Wiwaxy peaks. Follow the usual route up Mt. Huber (W. face), and swing to the N. into the valley between Mts. Huber and Victoria. Round the head of this valley to the PEAKS ON THE DIVIDE 49 bergschrund on the S. W. side of Mt. Victoria; traverse to foot of rock wall and ascend rocks beside a snow chimney about 400' high to the Victoria S. E. arete which is followed to the summit. Ascent from Lake O'Hara, 6 hrs.; descent, 4.5 hrs. Route 3. Traverse from the North peak, see below. Mt. Victoria. 11 150'. (North Peak). A. J.xxxii p. 74, 307. C. A. J. ix p. 140. O. p. 85. Continen- tal Divide, between the South Peak and Mt. Collier. 1900 J. Outram, W. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, Clarke, Zurfluh. Route I. Via the Lake Louise trail, rounding the S. E. flank of Mt. Whyte an,d ascending to the upper Victoria glacier. Thence up steep snow-slopes, 7-800' to the col between the North Peak and Mt. Collier {6}4 hrs.). Follow the arete to the summit, (corniced on the Lake Louise side). Ascent from the Victoria- Collier col, 1.5-2 hrs. Total time from Lake Louise, 12-13 hrs. Compare Mt. Collier for combined ascent. Route 2. Traverse of North and South peaks. C. A. J. ii No. 2 p. 92; X p. 12. A. J. xxxii p. 307. 1909 G. W. Culver, E. Feuz, Jr., R. Aemmer. To the North Peak as in Route i. The crest of the arete is followed with few exceptions, traverses being made on the Lake Louise side. A short distance from the North Peak, there is a 15' drop; thence a narrow, horizontal ridge, interrupted by deep cracks over which it is possible to step, leads to a gendarme which must be climbed. On its far side, comes a sheer drop with good holds into a deep gap. The wall ahead is easily passed and once on the ar^te, there is a stretch of good rock and some snow. Another deep gap is crossed to the highest point between the North and South peaks, (i hr., 45 min.) Then (i hr.) up and down many, but not deep gaps, to a platform above a 60' drop to the very narrow ridge which necessitates roping off (fixed sling). The next gendarme requires a traverse with step cutting, followed by a long easy bit on the ridge to the next obstruction, which is 50 LAKE LOUISE GROUP traversed to a very deep gap. A steep wall, an easy gendarme, another gap, brings one to the last obstacle, an overhanging tower which is traversed by rotten rock on the N. Thence via the ar§te, to the S. Peak. Descent as in Route i for South Peak. Total time from Lake Louise, 24 hrs. The reverse of this route, the traverse from the South to the North Peak has never been made. Wenkchemna Peak. (Peak Ten). 10401'. ABC, Sheet #15, Appal, vii p. 129. C. A. J. 11 #2 p. 78. O. p. 132. A shoulder of Hungabee between the main peak and Wenkchemna pass. Unnamed, ca. loooo'. A. J. xxii p. 334. C. A. J. iii p. 55, 75. Adjoins Mt. Quadra and Middle pass (Kaufmann) on S. N. of Chimney peak. 1904 G. Benham, C. Kaufmann. Climbed in mistake for Mt. Fay. Route I. Via the col between Peaks 3 and 4, Middle pass and the N. ar§te. Route 2. Via Consolation valley and Middle pass. (2) Peaks East of the Divide Mt. Aberdeen. (Hazel). 10340'. A. J. xviii p. 109; xxxii p. 73; xxxiii p. 193. C. A. J. i #2 p. 330; ix p. 140. O. p. 88. W. p. 242. W. (LL) p. 28. E. buttress of Lefroy glacier. Between Haddo peak and the E. Mitre pass. 1894 S. E. S. Allen, L. F. Frissell, W. D. Wilcox. Route I. From Paradise valley ascend shale slopes and rock slides to the S. shoulder, reached by way of a short chimney. Follow snow arete to summit. Ascent 5-6 hrs. Af \ r - f% '\ tf,» r<: X ■s -/ v_ — ^^ N s. N^ <\ ^ ^6 PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 51 Route 2. (See' Haddo pk,). From summit of Haddo peak des- cend to the Aberdeen glacier and reach the summit of Mt. Aber- deen over a steep snow and ice arete. Descend, as in Route i, to Paradise valley or over the W. slopes to the Lefroy glacier and Lake Louise. Total time, 13 hrs. Route 3. Via icefall of Aberdeen glacier. 19 19 V. A, Fynn, R. Aemmer. From Lake Louise, follow trail to Saddleback cabin. Thence circle head of Surprise valley to foot of Aberdeen glacier. On E. side of the fall is a narrow ice gully, next to a high and almost perpendicular cliff. By way of the gully (step cutting), the middle portion of the icefall is reached and permits good pro- gress. A large chasm, running horizontally across the fall, is crossed near its E. end and easy ground gained above the eastern cliff. The Haddo-Aberdeen saddle is gained (6 hrs. 40 min. from Lake Louise) and the ar^te followed to the summit of Mt. Aber- deen (i hr.). Descent as in Route 2, Haddo summit, 30 min. Saddleback cabin, via Haddo glacier, 2.5 hrs. Total time from Lake Louise, 13 hrs. Mt. Babel. IOI75^ C. A. J. iii- p. 73. S. W. angle formed by the valley of the Ten Peaks and Con- solation valley. 1910 E. O. Wheeler, A. R. Hart, L. C. Wilson, H. H. Worsfold. Route I. From Moraine lake ascend moraine of Fay glacier, keeping close to the rocks of the N. margin, which are themselves ascended when the base of the icefall is reached. Thence over glacier to the col between Mt. Fay and Mt. Babel and follow the ar^te to summit, about 1000' higher. Route 2. From the Babel-Fay col descent may be made to Consolation pass, via the Fay glacier, col between Peaks 2 and 3 and Middle pass. Ascent from Moraine lake, 7 hrs. 30 min. 52 LAKE LOUISE GROUP Babel Tower. 7580'. O. 131. App. x p. 89. W. (LL) p. 34. N. of Mt. Babel, 1901 G. T. Little, G. M. Weed, C. S. Thompson. Easy ascent from Consolation valley by way of the S. E. shale slopes. A direct ascent from Moraine lake should be avoided, because of rock falls. Mt. Bident. 10109'. A. J. xxii p. 205. Appal, xip. 128. C. A. J. iii p. 191. W. of Consolation pass. E. of Mt. Quadra. 1903 C. S. Thompson, H. Kaufmann. Via Consolation valley and pass, cross to S. E. angle of Mt. Bident. From this point the climb is on rock, not difficult except for stratum of black rock about 400' high passed either: Route I. In central portion of face below a triangular depression where a chimney breaks through the black stratum, or Route 2. Via the rising ridge of the pass to its junction with the S. E. angle of the mountain, thus flanking the cliff but compelling a traverse over a ledge not clearly continuous with the foot of the depression mentioned in Route i. Route i is the best. In the area of black rock there are two good handholds and a 12' face. Ascent from Consolation pass, 3 hrs. 30 min. Devil's Thumb. 8066'. W. (LL) p. 17. A. J. xviii p. 99. A minor elevation on the E. arete of Mt. Whyte, west of the Big Beehive. 1891 S. E. S. Allen. From Lake Louise follow the trail to Lake Agnes ( i hr.) . Thenc e via the trail to the ridge of the Beehive, whence the objective peak is reached over shale and easy ledges (3 hrs. from Lake Louise). A short, but interesting traverse of the Three Needles {ca. 8500'), on E. arete of Mt. Whyte, may be combined with the ascent of the Devil's Thumb in about 2 hrs. additional tim^e. From the sum- PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 53 mit of the Devil's Thumb cross shale slopes on south side of Whyte E. ar§te, to a dry couloir which leads to the ridge just W. of the western needle. The eastern cairn is gained by traversing the western and central points over a sharp and precipitous arete. The rock is firm, the views of Lake Louise and Lakes in the Clouds are unusually fine, and the climb ideal for training purposes. Eiffel Peak. 10091'. A. J. xviii p. 112. Alp. Amer. p. 18. Appal, x p. 89. C. A. J. i #2 p. 331; iii p. 192. E. buttress of Wastach pass. Adjoins Pinnacle, Mt. on S. W. 1901 G. M. Weed, C. S. Thompson, H. Kaufmann. From Moraine lake the Sentinel Pass trail is followed to Larch valley; thence the S. E. arete is ascended over scree and broken rock to the summit. Ascent from Moraine lake, 5 hrs., 30 min. The N. Tower has never been climbed. Fairview Mt. {Goat Mi.). 9001'. A. J. xviii p. 104. Appal, viiip. 128. Rept. Dept. Int. 1892. O. p. 109. W. (LL) p. 20. vS. W. angle between Lake Louise and Bow river. 1892 J. J. McArthur. Follow marked trail from Lake Louise to the Saddleback (7983') Faintly marked trail leads N. through trees and to zigzag trail, over scree on S. face to summit. The snow- slopes to S. E. may be glissaded in descending. Ascent from Lake Louise, 3.5-4 hrs. Haddo Peak. (Sheol). 10073'. A. J. xxxii p. 73. C. A. J. ix p. 140. D. O. A. V. xxxvi p. 138. N. E. of Mt. Aberdeen, between Lake Louise valley and Paradise valley. 54 LAKE LOUISE GROUP 1903 E. Tewes, C. Bohren. Route I. Via the S. W. ar^te over snow and ice from the summit of Mt. Aberdeen. (See Aberdeen, Route j — traverse from Saddle- back) . Route 2. From Saddleback via the rock rib dividing the N. glacier between Mts. Haddo and Aberdeen. The glacier is ascended to the foot of a couloir on theW. Ascend rocks on N. side of this couloir to foot of the E. face of the final peak and up it to summit. The Mitre. 9470'. A. J. xviii p. 109. C. A. J. iv p. 132; X p. 6. O. p. 88. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 646. W. p. 46. Between Mts. Lefroy and Aberdeen. 1901 /. Bossoney, C. Klucker, C. Kaufmann, J. Pollinger. Follow the Victoria glacier trail, cross the glacier and then skirt the north margin of the Lefroy glacier to the base of the S. W. slopes of Mt. Aberdeen. Ascend steep ledges and then over broken rock in the direction of the E. Mitre pass to which a traverse across an arm of the glacier (step-cutting) gives access. Cross the col and traverse horizontally around the base of the cliff (loose stone) towards the S. E. A wet, slanting couloir blocked by a chock stone is ascended for perhaps a hundred feet and then after crossing a second (Y) couloir below the branches, a "letter box" gives access through the rib to a third deep couloir that cuts the whole E. cliff from the top of the shoulder to the basal scree slopes (stones fall here). The vertical edge of this couloir (good holds) is climbed for perhaps 75' and thus the horizontal top of the north arete is gained. This is followed to the summit (several narrow chimneys and steep pitches) . From the col to the summit I }4 hours. Descent to col i }4 hours. From hotel to top 5 hrs. ; return 4 hrs. excluding halts. The E. Mitre pass is also easily reached over steep scree slopes from Paradise valley where horses can be taken to the Mitre's base. PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 55 Narao Peak. 9557'. ABC, p. 33. E. of Cataract brook, culminating the N. W. arete of Popes peak. Mt. Niblock. {Popes Peak). 9754'. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903. ABC, p. 30. N. of Mt. Whyte. No data as to first ascent, but was prior to 1900. From Lake Louise, follow trail to Lake Agnes and into the Whyte- Niblock cirque, ascending scree and broken rock to the lowest point of the S. arete which is followed to the summit. Ascent from Lake Louise, 4-4.5 hrs. Pinnacle Mt. {The Seniinel). 10062'. A. J. xviii p. 112. C. A. J. i #2 p. 197; ii #2 p. 45; viii p. 71 ; X p. 8. Between Paradise valley and valley of the Ten peaks. S. W. of Mt. Temple and Sentinel pass. N. E. of Eiffel peak. • 1909 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr., R. Aemmer. From Moraine lake follow the Sentinel pass trail to Larch valley, skirting the S. slopes of Pinnacle Mt. and ascending shale slopes and broken rock to the col between Eiffel and Pinnacle (4 hrs.). Traverse ledges northward on the Moraine lake side for about 300' to the base of a steep pitch leading towards the arete (fixed rope) which is ascended. Then follow ledges toward N. E. , keeping to the arete or just below it on the Moraine lake side. A black tower ahead (the apparent summit) is split by a chimney (60' fixed rope) which is ascended to easy shale slopes leading to the summit. The chimney may be avoided by a traverse to the N. (left) on very rotten rocks to a snow filled gully leading to the summit but it is not to be recommended. A point on the arete about midway between the two fixed ropes may be reached from the Paradise valley side, via long snow and scree slopes. Keep as high up as possible. This route is longer and involves the use of a camp in Paradise valley. Ascent from Moraine lake 6 hrs. 56 LAKE LOUISE GROUP Mt. St. Piran. 8681'. R. D. I. 1892. A. J. xviii p. 108, C.A.J. X p. 6. W. (LL) p. 16. Ascended in 1892 by J. J. McArthur. From Mirror lake or Lake Agnes, ascend faintly marked trail in southern scree slopes to summit. Descent may be made to the St. Piran-Niblock col (Goat pass), whence Mirror lake is regained via scree slopes or a descent made on the N. to Lake Minewakum and the Great Divide trail to Lake Louise. Ascent from Lake Louise, 3.5 hrs. Sheol. 9108'. A. J. xviii p. 11 1. Culminates che arete extending N. E. from Mt. Haddo. N. side of Paradise Vally. No data as to first ascent. A cairn on the summit is visible from the Saddleback. Can be reached by following the arete from the summit of Mt. Haddo. Compare with Mts. Haddo and Aber- deen. The peak ascended by Tewes, he calls Sheol, but it is evidently Mt. Haddo which he climbed. Mt. Temple (Lefroy). 11626'. A. J. xviii p. 103, p. 222. Appal, vii p. 281, xi p. 73. C. A. J. x p. 14. O. p. 143- W. p. 243. W. (LL) p. 28. N. E. and highest summit between Paradise and Ten Peak valleys. N. E. buttress of Sentinel pass. 1894 W. D. Wilcox, L. Frissell, S. E. S. Allen. Route I. From Moraine lake or Paradise valley to a point below the summit of Sentinel pass on the Moraine lake side. (8556'; 2 hrs. 40 min.). Thence up the steep shale slopes between the S. W. and S. aretes, following rock-slides and snow-filled couloirs to the summit arete at iiooo'. Here the arete is crossed to the W. side and the snow followed to the top (cornice toward Moraine lake) . Ascent from Moraine lake, 7.5-8 hrs. ^ PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 57 Route 2. 19 1 8 V. A, Fynn, R. Aemmer. A. J. xxxii p. 309. From Moraine lake follow the road toward Lake Louise, as far as the first deep water-course. Ascend to rock rib S. W. of the main summit and reach the foot of the big wall S. of the peak. Trav- erse N. E. along the foot of this wall to a large snow couloir, ascending the rocks on its near side and crossing the couloir at the first opportunity. Traverse ledges to N. E., reaching a break in the big wall, immediately below the summit. Thence climb steep rocks to N. E. and an icy couloir to the corniced E. arete which is followed to the summit. Ascent from Moraine lake; 7 hrs. 30 min. Mt. Whyte. 9776'. A. J. xxxii p. 74. C. A. J. ix p. 140. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 646. Between Popes' peak and Mt. Niblock. 1901 E. Whymper and guides. ♦ Route I. From Lake Louise via trail to Lake Agnes. Thence via scree and broken rock to the Whyte-Niblock saddle. Turn S. and follow arete to base of the peak. Cross a narrow couloir and ascend short slanting chimney to summit rocks. Ascent from Lake Louise, 5 hrs. Route 2. Traverse. Summit as in Route i. Descend S. E. face between main peak and a subsidiary summit to S. A couloir leads down to the Victoria glacier trail. Total time, 8 hrs. Unnamed. 9607'. ABC, Sheet #15. N. of Boom lake. The E. buttress of Consolation pass. Ascended by the Dominion Land Survey. (3) Peaks West of the Divide Mt. Biddle. Io878^ A. J. xviii p. 116; xxii p. 75. Appal, x p. 298. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 99. O. p. 96. . S. 58 LAKE LOUISE GROUP W. buttress of Opabin pass; between it and Lake McArthur. 1903 A. Eggers, H. C. Parker, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. Route I. From camp near head of Prospectors valley, cross several ridges to the S. arete. Follow this arete, which overhangs Prospectors valley and affords strenuous but not difficult or dangerous climbing. Below the final cliffs, an easy traverse over rock and snow leads to the N. face above Lake McArthur. The last few hundred feet consist of very steep snow and rock which is often ice-glazed. A short but easy rock chimney is climbed just below the summit. Route 2. From Lake O'Hara follow the trail to Lake McArthur. From the W. end of the latter, take the S, bank and ascend E. of Park Mt., via easy rocks and a short snow couloir to the W. ar^te of Mt. Biddle, between the lake and Misko creek. Continue a short distance toward the mountain, then descend a few hundred feet and cross to the S. W. ridge, which in turn is crossed and the slopes traversed to th& S. arete overlooking Prospectors val- ley. Follow this steep sharp arete as in Route i above. Ascent from Lake O'Hara (8.5 hrs.); descent (7 hrs.). In these directions a few compass bearings have been altered to conform to recent maps. 1915 A. Carpe, R. Aemmer. Route J. As in Route 2 to the col between Mts. Park and Biddle. Then ascend straight up the W. arete, traversing on S. W. face where necessary. The rock is good ; and the arete fairly difficult towards the top, somewhat resembling Hungabee. Time 12-14 hrs. including descent via Route 2. Cathedral Mt. 10464'. Appal., ix, p. 370; x, p. 88. C. A. J. ii. # 2 p. 141. O. p. 172. The S. E. and highest peak of the massif lying in the S. W. PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 59 angle between Cataract brook and Kicking Horse river. E. of Mt. Stephen. 1 90 1 J. Outram, /. Bossoney, C. Klucker. Route I. From Field follow the R.R. E. and ascend valley N. E. of Mt. Stephen, traversing long slopes of debris and boulders and ascending a gully filled with snow and loose rock to the ridge connecting Cathedral Mt. with the Cathedral Crags (5 hrs.). Follow narrow snow arete to summit (35 min.). Route 2. Traverse. Summit as in Route i. Retrace to the col between Cathedral Mt. and the Crags, thence descending to the E. glacier and reaching the Cataract brook trail in about 2 hrs. Ascent from Field, 5 hrs. 30 min. ; descent to Hector 2.5 hrs. Cathedral Crags. 10083'. Appal, x p. 88. O. p. 169. The N. W. summits of the Cathedral massif. 1900 J. Outram, W. Outram, C. Hdsler. From Field, follow the railroad 3.5 mi. E. Ascend thence over logs, boulders, and debris to steep glacier tongue descending towards the railway N. of the Crags. Ascend the ice (step- cutting) close to the W. wall, working to easier slopes above. From the neve, circle to the N. base of the final, pinnacles and up snow to the foot of the rocks, whence about 200' of climbing on steep slabs and narrow ledges leads to the summit. The ' * Spires ' ' of Outram are the Crags of the maps. Ascent from Field and return, 10 hrs. Mt. Duchesnay. 9582^ O. p. 184. Ann. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch 1905-6 p. 100. S. W. of .Mt. Stephen. W. of Mt. Odaray. Head of N. W. fork of McArthur creek. 1905 Dom. Topographical Survey. Mt. Huber. 11401'. A. J. xviii p. 116. Alp. Amer. p. 19. C. A. J, ii #2 p. 218; vi. p. 238. D. O. 6o LAKE LOUISE GROUP A. V. XXX vi p. 140. N. E. of Lake O'Hara, between Wiwaxy peaks (8473') and the S. arete of Mt. Victoria. 1903 G. Collier, E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Kaufmann. Route I. See Route 2 on Mt. Victoria. From the E. end of Lake O'Hara ascend scree slopes to the saddle between Wiwaxy peaks and Mt. Huber. Traverse along the W. face of the latter and reach the summit via the N. E. arete over snow-slopes. Route 2. Route 1 to crest of W. arete. Thence straight up steep rocks and chimneys to summit. Mt. Odaray. 10165'. A. J. xxv p. 27. Alp. Amer. p. 19. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 136. Appal, xii p. 157. Rep. Dept. of Int. 1892 ii p. 75. N. W. buttress of Mc- Arthur pass. W. of Lake O'Hara. 1887 J. J. McArthur. From Lake O'Hara follow trail S. W. toward McArthur pass (Lake O'Hara-Ottertail river), turning W. to reach a small glacier which is crossed toward S. W. Circle low E. peak and ascend to depression between it and the higher W. peak. E. arete is followed to the summit. In the arete are two short rock faces, broken by chimneys. The first is avoided by a short traverse to the S. The second chimney is just below the summit and must be ascended. Mt. Owen. 10118'. Alp. Amer., p. 19. Rep. Dept. of Int. 1893 ii p. 75. S. E. of Mt. Duchesnay. N. W. angle between McArthur creek and Ottertail river. 1892 J. J. McArthur. Park Mt. 967 1^ See Visitors' Book, Lake Louise Chalet, for first ascent. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 86. S. W. PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 6i of Lake McArthur; culminates the W. arete of Mt. Biddle. 1907, July 30th, L. Frost and Peter Kaufmann. Route I. From Lake O'Hara i hr. 15 min. to Lake McArthur. Ascend directly up the face from N. W. end of lake, over rotten but not difficult rock. On descending a harder but more interest- ing route may be found down the W. end of the peak. Ascent from Lake McArthur 2 hrs.; descent 1.5 hrs. Route 2. From Lake McArthur ascend rock and snow couloir in the N. E. face to the lowest depression between Park Mt. and Mt. Biddle. Follow scree arete to summit. Route J. Via the N. E. face. The first buttress is overcome by means of a couloir close to the N. end of the lake. Thence climb steep snow-slopes to the foot of a rock rib descending from the apparent summit. Follow this rib, bearing W. and reach the N. ar^te near the summit. Complete the ascent via the W. side of this arete over rocks which are rotten and difficult. The true summit is a long ridge to E. of the apparent summit. On descend- ing, follow the S. arete and then strike W., down to McArthur creek, traversing N. wherever possible. The rocks are rotten but not difficult. Ascent from Lake McArthur, 3 hrs. ; descent to foot of McArthur pass, 2 hrs., 20 min. Mt. Schaffer. 8824'. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 196. S. of Lake O'Hara, culminating the N. W. arete of Mt. Biddle. The E. buttress of McArthur pass. 1909 M. Goddard, W. S. Richardson. Route I. Follow the N. W. arete until a deep notch is reached; descend toward Lake McArthur to the foot of the main peak, which is ascended by a steep and fairly difficult bit of rock-work. Route 2. The peak may be traversed by descending the E. face 62 LAKE LOUISE GROUP toward Mt. Biddle until a vertical wall is reached. This is descended by a 70' chimney, filled with rotten rock; not difficult. An easy snow couloir leads to the Biddle glacier. Mt. Stephen. 10485'. Appal, vii p. 288, viii p. 26. A. J. xxiip. 334. C.A. J.i#i p. 136. Rep. Dept. of Int. 1888 ii p. 100; 1892, ii p. 106. Above and directly E. of Field station. 1887 J. J. McArthur, T. Riley. From Field by way of the marked trail to the fossil bed, an ascent of 2000'. Thence follow the S. arete (the sky-line) over broken shale and ledges to a cliff, 600' below the summit. This is sur- mounted by a short chimney; a steep snow-slope and a broken narrow ar^te lead to the summit. Ascent from Field, 5 hrs. ; descent 3 hrs. The ascent of Mt. Stephen by McArthur, September 9th, 1887, is probably the first high climb made in the Canadian Rockies of which there is authentic record. The party started at 4:30 A.M. and it took them four laborious hours to penetrate the dense forest to timberline. The next three hours were spent in gaining the base of the final "turret." On the rock were three names written in lampblack: "Hall, Whatley, Ross, September 6th, 1886." An ice couloir above the rock with the names was ascended; it took all their nerve to traverse a knife-edge arete near the summit, 6385' above the railroad. A cairn nine feet high was built. (Between this and the ascent of 1892, the character of the upper portion of the peak was greatly changed and made much easier by a fall of a rock, estimated by McArthur at 200,000 cubic feet.) In 1904 an extraordinary ascent of Mt. Stephen was 'made by Miss Gertrude E. Benham with Hans and Christian Kaufmann as guides, from Lake Louise. Starting at midnight, they crossed Abbot pass to Lake O'Hara and skirting Mt. Odaray, ascended Cataract valley to the base of the mountain. Mounting a snow- PEAKS WEST OF THE DIVIDE 63 slope they struck a ridge which led them to the summit at 7:30 in the evening — 19^^ hrs. from Lake Louise. They then de- scended to Field by the usual route, arriving at 3 :oo a.m., consum- ing 27 hrs, in all (A. J. xxii p. 334). Mt. Whymper. {Mt. Francklyn). 9321'. ABC, p. 37. C.A.J. V p. 136. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903. S. W. of Boom Mt. In N. angle between Prospectors valley and Vermilion river. 1 90 1 E. Whymper and guides. From Vermilion pass, via E. and S, slopes to W, arete which is followed to the summit. Mt. Yukness. 9342'. A. J. xviii p. 226. C. A. J. ii #2, p. 77. S. of lakes O'Hara and Oesa. Culmi- nates the W. arete of Ringrose peak. Has been ascended but no data available. SECTION X The Ottertail Group (West of the Divide) The group Hes entirely within British Columbia territory, west of the Divide, and is bounded by the Ottertail, Kicking Horse and Beaverfoot rivers. In all, there are about a dozen peaks, six of which are over loooo' in altitude. The highest summit is Mt. Goodsir (South tower 11676')- These peaks are reached from the Kicking Horse river, Canadian Pacific railroad, by wa}^ of the Ottertail river on the north or via the Beaverfoot and Ice river valleys on the south. Mt. Chancellor. 10731'. Appal, ix p. 376, x p. i. O. p. 260. A. J. XX p. 541. E. of Learichoil station, between Beaverfoot and Ice river valleys. 1901 J. Outram, J. H. Scattergood, G. M. Weed, -C. Hdsler, Camp at timberline on the S. W. slopes, 6500'. Ascend via scree and short chffs to a deep snow-filled couloir leading to a depression in the W. arete just below the summit. The jagged S. arete is gained and followed to the summit, tra.versing to avoid small 64 . THE OTTERTAIL GROUP 65 gendarmes and stretches of ice which often make the last part of the arete dihic.Jt. Ascent from tihiberhne 6 hrs. Descent 5 hrs. Mt, Goodsir. S. Tower 11676'. Appal, x p. 285, C. A. J. i #1 p. 72, vii p. 41 . O. p. 248, p. 266. High- est peak of the massif between the Ottertail and Ice river valleys. 1903 C. E. Fay, H, C. Parker, C. Hdsler, C. Kaufmann. Camp at 7000' in upper Zinc Gulch and ascend the basal slopes of the S. tower over lawn and scree. Mount the broken rocks of the S. W. butt,ress toward a conspicuous snow shoulder to E. and via its narrow ridge to the base of a steep cliff (10800'; 5 hrs.). The cliff is ascended for 100' (poor holds) and then the narrow snow arete is followed for 500' to summit, heavily corniced on the Ottertail side. Ascent from camp 8 hrs. ; descent 6 hrs. Mt. Goodsir. N. Tower 11555'. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 61. 1909 (A. Eggers), J. P. Forde, P. D. McTavish, E. Feuz, Sr. Camp in Ice river valley at 5100' near base of the N. tower. Gain S. W. ridge at 6800' as soon as possible and follow it until forced to leave it on account of perpendicular bluffs. Traverse a long rock slide on the S. side of the peak, to reach another ridge immediately overhanging the valley between the N. and S. tow- ers. Follow this arete to the base of the N. tower at 10300.' Traverse base of the tower alon^ ledges covered with scree and snow, ascending the W. face close to the S. arete. On arriving at a snow-filled couloir, ascend rocks to the right (good -holds) for about 350', then cross to avoid a difficult cliff and continue the ascent close to the couloir up steep ledges to a small snowfield leading to the summit. Ascent from camp 9 hrs. 66 THE OTTERTAIL GROUP Hanbury Peak. 10267'. Alp. Amer. p. 19. E. of Mt. Vaux at head of Ice river valley. Helmet Mt. 10287'. Appal, ix p. 299. Alp. Amer. p. 8. Ann. Rept. Top. Surveys Br. 1906-7, p. 219. S. E. of Mt. Sharp. W. margin of the Wash- mawapta snowfield. Head of Moose creek. 1906 Dom. Topographical Survey. Mt. Hurd. 9265'. O. p. 243. Ann. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1905-6, p. 99. N. W. outpost of the Ottertail group. 1905 Dom. Topographical Survey. Limestone Pk. 9442'. E. of Helmet Mt., E. edge Washmawapta glacier. Mt. Mollison. 9677'. Appal, ix -p. 289. O. p. 240. E. of Ice river junction with Beaverfoot river. 1900 J. H. Scattergood, /. Miiller, C. Hdsler. From Leanchoil or Palliser station by way of the Beaverfoot valley. From camp at Ice river-Beaverfoot junction, make for the S. E. arete, by traversing on the W. and S. After reaching the arete ascend toward the N. and climb steep W. face of the final summit. Ascent from camp 5 hrs. 30 min. Mt. Oke. 9572'. ABC, Atlas Sheet #15. W. of Prospectors valley and E. of Misko creek-Ottertail junction. On the N. lies Misko pass and on the S. the Ottertail pass, both of which connect the Ottertail and the Vermilion rivers. \ THE OTTERTAIL GROUP 67 Mt. Sharp. 9994'. Appal, ix p. 299. Ann. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch 1906-7, p. 219. E. of Mt. Goodsir at the head of Goodsir creek, head of Moose creek. 1906 Dom. Topographical Survey. Mt. Vaux. Io88I^ Appal, ix p. 376, x p. 6. C. A. J. i #1 p. 74. O. p. 245. S. E. of Mt. Hurd, and between it and Mt. Hanbury. go I C. E. Fay, J. Outram, J, H. Scattergood, C. Hdsler. - Jiite I. From the Ottertail river, camp at the sources of Ras- kins creek E. of Mt. Hurd. Ascend over easy rock (i hr.) and via steep snow-slopes to the Hurd- Vaux col (Hurd pass. 50 min.). Thence southward along the broken arete (i hr.) to narrow col 'it base of a snow dortie below the final peak. Steep slopes are ascended (800') to the snow dome, 9950'. Cross to the n^v^ sweeping to S. E. and circle large crevasses by bearing well to the left and reaching narrow summit ridge. Ascent from camp 7 hrs. 20 min. Route 2. Descend to dip between final peak and snow dome whence glacier to the S. E. may be followed over easy snow to :irque at head of Ice river valley. Steeper slopes and rocky ledges are descended and the valley reached, the traverse con- suming 12.5 hrs. Zinc Mt. 9800'. Head of Zinc valley, S. of Mt. Goodsir, N. W. of Moose creek. Part Two KICKING HORSE PASS TO FORTRESS LAKE Sections page XI. — -Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass. . . 71 Yoho-Waputik Group. XII. — ^Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks, East of the Divide. ....... 85 XIII. — Miscellaneous Groups, West of the Divide. , 90 Van Home Group. BlacV. water Range and Stephens Group. XIV. — Howse Pass to Bush Pass. . . • • 93 Freshfield Group. 1. Conway Subdivision. 2. Mummery Subdivision. 3. Barnard-Dent Subdivision. XV. — ^Bush Pass to Thompson Pass. . . . .102 Forbes-Lyell Group. XVI. — ^Murchison Group, East of the Divide. . . 109 XVII. — Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake. . . .112 Columbia Group. XVIIL— Wood River Group, West of the Divide. . .121 69 PART TWO SECTION XI Kicking Horse Pass to Howse Pass (Yoho-Waputik Group) The group is bounded by the Kicking Horse, Amis- kwi, Blaeberry, Howse (branch of N. Saskatchewan) and Mist ay a (Bear creek or S. Fork of N. Saskatche- wan) rivers. It includes the peaks on and near the Divide between Kicking Horse pass (Canadian Pacific Railroad) and Howse pass, an air-line distance of approximately thirty miles. The group is oblong in shape, its average width throughout this distance being only about eight miles. On the Divide, Howse peak (10800') and Mt. Balfour (10741') are the highest peaks. The irregular but connected icefields on and near the Continental Divide in the central portion of the group cover an area of some 45 sq. mi., the Wapta having about 25 sq. mi. and the Waputik about 20 sq. mi. West of the Divide and parallel with it, the Yoho valley splits the group and from it all but the most 71 72 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP northerly peaks are accessible. Outfits may be taken in either from Lake Louise or from Field. Emerald Lake Chalet ma}^ be used as a convenient base for a number of climbs west of the Yoho valley. Aiguille Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- nental Divide, adjoining Howse pass on S. E. Amgadamo. 9537'. C. A. J. i #1 p. 115, 175. W. of Continental Divide. Between Mts. Carnarvon (McMullen) and Marpole. 1906 A. Gordon, A. Dunn. A. O. McCrae, E. Feiiz, Jr., G. Feuz. From Yoho pass, traverse the S. shale slopes of Michael's peak and follow the valley leading to Emerald pass. Keep to the left and ascend slopes to the col N. of Mt. Carnarvon whence the E- arete of Amgadamo is followed to the summit over broken rock. A traverse may be made by continuing over Mt. Marpole, descending broken rock and snow-slopes to the glacier between Mts. Marpole and President, and thence to 'the upper Yoho valley. Angle Peak. 8844'. Appal, ix p. 371, x p. 86. C. A. J. i #1 p. 171. O. p. 208. A sharp angle of rock, rising above N. escarpment of Vice-President ridge, a mile E. of summit. Now officially Michael Pk. 1900 K. Michael, C. Hdsler. Route 7. To the little alp N. E. of Emerald lake, from whence the glacier and neve are ascended in a N. E. direction, ascending snow-slopes and a long snow ridge to the summit. Route 2. See Mt. Vice-President: The peak may be ascended by following the arete E. from. Mt. Vice-President and climbing the steep snow-slopes of the N. W. face, YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 73 Aries Peak. 9900'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- nental Divide between Ebon and Stairway peaks, 2 mi. W. of Mistaya lake. S. W. of Cirque lake. Mt. Ayesha. 10020'. C. A. J. i #1 p. 151. W. of Continental Divide. 4 mi. S. of Mt. Baker. Cul- minates the N. arete of Mt. Collie. Mt. Baker. 10441'. Appal, ix p. 21. O. p. 222. Continental Divide. 2 mi. N. of Mt. Ayesha, between Baker and Peyto glaciers, the latter flowing N. E. to form the main source of Mistaya river. Mt. Balfour. {Daly). 10741'. Appal, ix p. 20, 92; X p. 87. C. A. J. i#i p. 252;ii#2 p. 148. C. p. 34. O. p. 230, 283. Continental Divide. N. of Mt. LilHput. vS. of Balfour pass and Mt. Olive. Head of Balfour glacier. Second highest peak of Yoho-Waputik group. 1898 C. L. Noyes, C. S. Thompson, G. M. Weed. Route I. From camp near Hector lake, via scree and rocks on W. side of the valley, past lakes Margaret and Turquoise, to foot of Balfour glacier (4 hrs.). Crevasses are passed to the neve above and the S. E. arete (Divide) is crossed, the arete being gained by way of snow-slopes on its W. side. The S. E. arete is followed over broken rock and knife-edges of snow to the summit. Ascent 8 hrs. Route 2. From the Yoho valley, via the N. margin of the Daly glacier and snowfields to the base of the S. E. arete; thence as in Route I. Ascent 5 hrs. Mt. Barbette. N. W. loooo'. S. E. 10080'. ABC, Sheet #17. . Continental Divide, 3 mi. W. of Peyto lake between Mt. Mistaya and Mt. Breaker. 74 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP Mt. Bosworth. 9083'. ABC, p. 30. Continental Divide. The N. W. buttress of Kicking Horse pass. Bow Peak. 9184.'. O., p. 290. N. W. angle between Bow river and Hector lake. Mt. Breaker. 10069'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- tinental Divide, S. of Ebon Pk. and N. of Mt. Bar- bette. Head of Capricorn glacier. S. W. of Mistaya lake. 191 7 ABC Boundary Commission. Mt. Burgess. 8463'. R. D. I. 1893, p. 76. C. A. J. i #1 p. 53, 174. O. p. 181. N. of Field station. W. buttress of Burgess pass, between Emerald creek and Kicking Horse valley. i<^9- J- J- McArthur. May be climbed from Burgess pass; laborious but not difficult. Mt. Carnarvon. {Mc Mullen.) 9964'. Topo- graphical Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. S. of Mt. Marpole, between Emerald lake and Kiweti- nok creek. 1904 Dom. Topographical Survey. Mt. Collie. 10315'. Appal, ix p. 22, 91 ; X p. 86. C. A. J. i#i p. I75;ivp. 133. C. p. 126. O.p. 221. Scrib- ner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 658. R. D. I. 1905. W. of Continental Divide. E. of Amiskwi (Baker) pass. Between Mt. Ayesha and Peak des Poilus. YOHO- WAP UTIK GRO UP 75 1 90 1 E. Whympef, J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, C. Klucker, J. Pollinger. From Yoho valley, via the Yoho glacier and the center of the E. face to the S. arete, which is gained at a point about 400' below the summit. Climbers should proceed toward the W. side of the neve to avoid the large crevasses. A large bergschrund and steep snow-slopes are crossed before reaching the arete which is often a knife-edge of snow. Ascent from Yoho valley, 6.5-7.5 hrs. Total time about 14 hrs. Mt. Daly. 10332'. Appal, ix p. 94; xp. 374. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 146. D. O. A. V. xxxvi p .151. Continental Divide, between Yoho valley and head of Bath creek. 1903 J- N. Batcheller, C. E. Fay, E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Hdsler. Route I. From Yoho valley, via the Daly glacier. Cross N. of Mt. Niles and ascend snowfield at the head of the glacier to rocks of the final peak, which is reached by a short snow-slope. Either the N. or the S. arete can be easily reached. Route 2. From Sherbrooke valley to the Daly glacier, via Niles pass, just W. of Mt. Niles. The snowfield is crossed to the neve of the Daly glacier. Remainder of climb as in Route i. Ascent 6 hrs. Ebon Peak. 9600'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- nental Divide. N. of Mt. Breaker. S. of Aries peak. I mi. W. of Capricorn lake. Mt. Field. 8645'. R. D. I. i888ii, p. 102. C.A.J. i#ip. 53. O. p. 177, C. p. 65. E. buttress of Burgess pass. Between Mt. Wapta and Kicking Horse valley. 1887 J. J. McArthur. 1897 G. P. Baker, P. Sarbach. From Burgess pass, summit may be reached over shale slopes of W. face in 2 hrs. Field to Burgess pass, 2>^ hrs. 76 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP Mt. Gordon. (Aberdeen) 10336'. A. J. xix p. 109. Appal, viii p. 325; C. p. 29. O. p. 282. W. of Conti- nental Divide. E. buttress of Yoho glacier. W. but- tress of Vulture col. (Bow valley to Yoho valley.) 1897 G. P. Baker, J. N. Collie, H. B. Dixon, C. E. Fay, A. Michael, C. L. Noyes, H. C. Parker, C. S. Thompson, P. Sarbach. Route I. From camp on upper Bow lake. Via the Bow glacier and S. lateral moraine, crossing below the upper icefall to the N. margin and climbing along the base of Portal peak to the Waputik snowfield. Cross to Vulture col and ascend the N. E. arete to the W. and highest point. Route 2. Vulture col may be reached from the Yoho valley by way of the Yoho glacier and snow fields. Remainder of route as indicated above. Howse Peak. 10800'. A. J. xxi p. 373. C. A. J. vi p. 94. C. p. 286. G. J. xxi p. 493. O. p. 316. Continental Divide. E. of Howse pass. The highest peak of the Yoho-Waputik group. 1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, H. Kaufmann. From a camp on Howse river below Howse pass, ascend through burnt timber to the W. arete (2 hrs.). Two precipitous rock- faces intersect the arete; the first is passed without difficulty and the second is avoided by descending into the valley and remount- ing the arete farther on. The remainder of the climb is a snow grind, with only a few crevasses to be avoided. Summit is heavily corniced on W. Ascent, 8 hrs. Isolated Peak. 9224'. Appal, x p. 85. C. A. J. iv p. 133. O. p. 208. Scribner's Magazine, June, I903» P- 655-6. S. extremity of W. escarpment of Wapta icefield. E. of Mt. Mc Arthur. YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 77 1 901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, /. Bossoney, C. Kaufmann, C. Klucker, J. PoUinger. From camp in Little Yoho valley, via scree and dry glacier W. of the Whaleback to snow-slopes and shale j leading to the rocky summit. The W. ridge is the easiest route. Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 2.5-3 hrs. Mt. Kaufmann. 10200'. ABC Sheet #18. (See Mt. Sarbach.) Mt. Kerr. 9384^ Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 655. Between Little Yoho valley and Kiwetinok creek. S. buttress of Kiwetinok pass. 1901 E. Whymper and guides. Kiwetinok Peak. 95I2^ Appal, x p. 85. O. p. 201. Between Little Y'oho valley and Amiskwi river. N. buttress of Kiwetinok pass. 1 90 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. PoUinger. Route I. From Little Yoho valley, ascend to Kiwetinok pass (8000'), whence a direct route may be taken via the E. snow- slopes (awkward bergschrund) leading to the long N. E. arete and summit rocks. Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 4 hrs. ; from Kiwetinok pass, 2 hrs. Route 2. The peak may be ascended in slightly over i hr. by following the N. arete from the summit of Mt. McArthur. Mt. Lilliput. 9200'. ABC, Sheet #16. Conti- nental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Balfour. N. W. of Mt. Daly. No data. Could be reached from the head of Yoho valley via the Daly glacier. Mt. Marpole. 9822'. (See also Amgadamo.) C. A. J. i #1 p. 53, 115, 175. Scribner's Magazine, June, 78 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 1903, p. 655-6. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Emerald pass and Mt. President. 1 90 1 E. Whymper and guides. From camp in Little Yoho valley, via the glacier between Mts. Marpole and President. Snow-slopes and broken rock of the W. ar^te lead to the summit. An excellent rock climb may be had via the E. arete and down the S. face to the Marpole-President saddle. Mt. McArthur (Signal 18.) 9882'. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 150. O. p. 202. Alp. Amer. p, 14. R. D. I. 1891. I mi. W. of Isolated peak. With latter peak, it forms S. end of the W. escarpment of Wapta icefield. 1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. Route I. From Yoho valley, via the Habel glacier and snow- field, striking the N. arete at one of many accessible points and following it on its W. side to the summit. Route 2. Descent may be made into the Little Yoho valley by way of the S. arete, traversing Kiwetinok peak en route. Ascent from the foot of Twin Falls, 5 hrs. Mt. McMullen. 9964'. (Now Mt. Carnarvon, g. v.). C. A. J. i #1 p. 53. O. p. 201, 206. Michael Peak. 8844'. Formerly Angle Pk., g. v. Midway Peak. 9570'. ABC, Sheet #17. Conti- nental Divide, S. of Mt. Synge and N. of Stairway peak. W. of Cirque lake. Mt. Mistaya. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- tinental Divide, S. E. of Mt. Barbette and N. of Trapper peak. YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 79 St. Nicholas Peak. 9616'. ABC, Sheet #17. Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. Olive at the head of Bow glacier. Mt. Niles. 9742'. Appal, ix p. 96. O. p. 284. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Mt. Daly; head of Sherbrooke valley. 1898 C. E. Fay and R. Campbell. Mt. Olive. 10270'. ABC, Sheet #16. O. p. 281. Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. Balfour and Balfour pass. (Bow valley to Yoho valley). N. E. buttress of Vulture col. Mt. Patterson. 10490'. ABC, Sheet #17. E. of Continental Divide. W. of Mistaya river between Delta creek and Mistaya lake. N. E. of and adjoin- ing Mt. Barbette. The central peak is the highest point, the N. and S. peaks being only slightly above 9500'. Peyto Peak. 9805'. ABC, Sheet #17. E. of Con- tinental Divide. W. buttress of Peyto glacier. S. of Caldron lake. Mt. Des Poilus. (Habel.) 10361.' Appal, x p. 86. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 150, iv p. 133, x p. 102. O. p. 210. Scribner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 658. W. escarpment of Wapta icefield, between Mt. McArthur and Mt. Collie. 8o YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 1901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, C. K ..jminn, C. Khicker, J. Pollinger. Route I. From Little Yoho valley. An ascent of 2000' to the rocky col N. E. of Isolated peak and a descent of 300' on the far side to Habel glacier. Thence as in Route 2. Ascent by Route /, 6.5 hrs. ; total time 12-13 hrs. Route 2. The Habsl glacier is reached from the upper Yoho valley and the crevassed snowfield traversed to the bergschrund and steep slopes leading to a col in the S. arete about 500' below the summit. Ascent by Route 2, 5.5 hrs. from foot of Twin Falls. Portal Peak. 9552'. C. A. J. iii p. 165. E. of Continental Divide. N. of Bow glacier. S. E. of Mt. Thompson. Mt. President. {Emerald, Shaughnessy.) 10287'. Appal. X p. 86. C. A. J. i #1 p. 52. O. p. 204. Scrib- ner's Magazine, June, 1903, p. 656. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Mt. Vice-President and separated from it by President pass (Emerald lake to Little Yoho). 1 00 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. Pollinger. Route I. From camp in Little Yoho valley (6500'), via the glacier and nsve leading to Emerald pass (98.00') and by way of the steep S. W. snow-slopes to the summit. A heavy cornice overhangs the E. face. Route 2. See Mt. Vice-President: From the summit of the latter, descend 200' of steep snow to President pass. A similiar ascent on the opposite side leads to the summit of Mt. President via the N. E. arete. Ascent from the summit of Mt. Vice-Presi- dent, one half hour. Pyramid Pk. ca. 10700'. C. A. J., iii, p. 4; vi p. 94. O. p. 299, 325. E. of Continental Divide. YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 8i N. E. of Howse pass. W. of Waterfowl lakes. S. of Mt. Sarbach (Kaufmann) between the Middle fork of the N. Saskatchewan river and the Mistaya. 1913 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, Jr. From camp on the Mistaya river through timber to the lake just S. of the peak. Thence via shale slopes and steep rocks to the saddle between the lower W. snow peak (The White Pyramid) and the higher rock peak to E. From this point, the higher peak is climbed by its N. arete in 40 min. to the summit. Ascent from camp, 7 hrs. ; descent 6 hrs. The White Pyramid has not been ascended. Mt. Rhondda. I0025^ ABC, Sheet #17. R. D. I. 1905. Continental Divide, S. E. of Mt. Baker and N. W. of St. Nicholas peak. A long, ridged summit at the head of Peyto and Bow glaciers. 1904 Dom. Topographical Survey. Mt. Sarbach. 10200'. (ABC, Sheet #18 "Mt. Kaufmann"). C. p. 47. O. p. 302. E. of Con- tinental Divide. N. of the Pyramid.. The N. peak of the Yoho-Waputik group. Between the Mistaya and Howse rivers. 1897 G. P. Baker, J. N. Collie, P. Sarbach. From camp near the mouth of the Mistaya river, ascend 1000' through the forest; then up a steep gully in the limestone escarp- ment and over steep scree to the foot of the final peak. The rock is loose and crumbling; the summit ridge is narrow and composed of hard limestone. - Stairway Peak. 9840'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- tinental Divide, W. of Mistaya lake between Midway and Aries peaks. 82 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP Mt. Synge. 9700'. ABC, Sheet #17. Continental Divide, i3^ mi. S. E. of Howse peak between Aiguille and Midway peaks. W. of Cirque lake. Mt. Thompson. 10097'. C. p. 141. E. of Con- tinental Divide, between Peyto and Bow glaciers. E. of Mt. Baker and N. W. of Portal peak. 1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. From camp on upper Bow lake to the head of Bow glacier, see Mt. Gordon. From the top of the Bow icefall ascend "the first peak to the N." over loose rocks and snow. The ascent is straight- forward but laborious. Trapper Peak. 9790'. ABC, Sheet #17. Con- tinental Divide, N. of Mt. Baker and S. of Mt. Mis- taya. W. wall of Peyto glacier cirque. TroUtinder Mt. {Witches' peak.). 9750'. Appal, viii p. 334. x p. 87. C. A. J. ii #2 p. 221, iv p. 133. O. p. 226. Scribner's Magazine, Jun6, 1903, p. 658. W. of Continental Divide. Culminates the S. W. arete of Mt, Balfour. 1901 E. Whymper, J. Outram, C. Kaujmann, C. Klucher, J. Pollinger. From camp in Yoho valley via the stream from the Balfour glacier. Ascend the E. bank and a steep ravine, crossing the stream and working diagonally to the S. end of the main ridge. Thence over scree slopes to base of the tower, the last 50' being climbed over very steep slabs and narrow ledges. Ascent from camp, 4-4.5 hrs. Mt. Vice-President. 10050'. Appal, x p. 86. C. A. J. i #1 p. 52, p. 171. O. p. 207. Scribner's YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP 83 Magazine, June, 1903, p. 656. W. of Continental Divide. Between Mt. President and Michael's Peak. 1 90 1 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann, J. PoUinger. Route I. From summit of Yoho pass (Yoho valley to Emerald lake), gain and cross the shoulder extending S, from Michael's peak (8840'). Traverse the W. rock-shdes and ascend snow- slopes to the arete between Michael's peak and Mt. Vice-President. Follow the broken arete (Angle peak) and cross the level snow- field to the summit, about i mi. farther on. Ascent from camp in Yoho valley, 9.5-10 hrs. Route 2. From camp in Little Yoho valley, via the center and right bank of the glacier below the N. side of President pass. Ascend the spur protruding S. W. from the peak and gain the summit over rock and snow. Descent may be made by Route i. Ascent from Little Yoho valley, 3.5 hrs. Mt. Wapta. 9106'. Appal, x p. 85. C. A. J. i #2 p. 174, xi p. 217; O. p. 178. Between Yoho valley and Emerald lake. The S. E. buttress of Yoho pass. 19.01 J. H. Scattergood, J. Outram, C. Bohren. Route I. Via the S.face. From Burgess pass or Yoho pass, traverse to a large snow-filled couloir on the S. face, which is ascended for about 200'. Then traverse ledges to E. past the foot of a chimney and around a buttress to a broad dry couloir running to the summit of the cliff -belt. Thence over shale to the second line of cliff which is surmounted by ascending ledges to the eastern extremity of the final ridge. Ascent from Field or Emerald lake, 5 hrs. ; from base S. couloir, 2 hrs. 1919 W. E. Stone, A. Sibbald. Route 2. Via the N. E. face. (More difficult than Route i.) From Yoho pass over the long scree slope to the snow banks at the foot of the N. E. cliffs. Working up from the snow through a narrow gully to the foot of a wide chimney near the N. E. angle 84 YOHO-WAPUTIK GROUP of the cliff, turn left, going up steeply over rock with small hand and foot holds. The rock is firm and dependable but offers few standing places. Traverse the face (left) while working upward, towards the E. outline of cliffs, for three-quarters of the distance to the summit crest. The general line of ascent is from the lower right to upper left of the face. The slope then lessens, leading to a level bench at the foot of two or three steep chimneys. Ascend the chimney on the right; 50' of good rock leads to the snow cornice whence the highest point of the summit is easily reached. 2}4 hrs. climbing on face. Yoho Peak. 9046'. Appal, x p. 87. O. p. 220. W. buttress of Yoho glacier, at head of streams form- ing Twin Falls and Yoho river. 1901 H. W. Dubois, R. Campbell, A. Palmer. Route I. From camp in Yoho valley, via the Yoho glacier and broken rock of the N. face. Route 2. Via cliffs N. of Twin Falls to the narrow S. E. arete which is followed to the snow-dome summit. Ascent from Twin Falls to first minor summit on arete, 1.5 hrs.; to second summit, 20 min. ; across ragged notch in arete to snow-dome, 30 min. SECTION XII The Slate Mts. and Adjacent Peaks (East of the Divide) This section includes the peaks north and east of the Bow river between the headwaters of the Red Deer and Clearwater rivers and Bow pass. All the peaks lie in Alberta and at least eight of them exceed loooo'. Mt. St. Bride (White Douglas) 11220' and Mt. Hector 11 135' are the highest peaks. The Bow and Pipestone valleys form convenient approaches for outfits from Lake Louise. Brachiopod Mt. 9060'. C. A. J. iii p. 112. S. of Baker lake and Fossil Mt. No data as to first ascent. From Baker lake via scree and broken rock of N. W. face. Cataract Peak. 9444^ Map of the Rocky Moun- tains between Lat. 51° and 53° 10'. E. of Pipestone river. N. E. of Mt. Molar. Cirque Peak. 9758'. Topographical Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. N. E. of Bow lake. N. 85 86 SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS W. buttress of Dolomite pass (Bow to Siffleur river). Cf. Observation peak and note. Cyclone Peak. (Drummond). 9530'. Map refer- ence as above. N. bank of Red Deer river. N. of Mt. Douglas. Adjoins Mt. McConnell on S. Dolomite Peak. 9818'. Map reference as above. E. of Bow lake. S. E. buttress of Dolomite pass. Mt. Douglas. {Black Douglas). 11015'. C.A.J. i #2 p. 318; iv p. 143; vii p. 58; viii p. 136. TheN. tower of the Douglas massif. See Mt. St. Bride. 1907 L. M. Earle, E. Feuz, G. Feiiz. From the head of Red Deer river, reached from Lake Louise station via the Pipestone and Little Pipestone valleys. The ascent is made on the S. W. face over loose but not difficult rock. The S. arete is gained and followed to the summit. Ascent from camp, 5>^ hrs. Fossil Mt. 9655'. C. A. J. iii p. 112. E. of Pika peak. N. of Baker lake at head of Red Deer river. No data as to first ascent From Baker lake, via broken rock of the S. face. Mt. Hector. 11 135'. Appal, viii p. i, p. 97. O. p. 278. The highest peak in the N. angle between Bow and Pipestone rivers. S. W. of Molar creek. 1895 P. S. Abbott, C. E. Fay, C. S. Thompson. From camp in the Bow valley near Hector lake ascend the slopes of the W. face, N. of the peak, to the base of a shoulder separated SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 87 by a large amphitheater from the S. W. ar^te running down from the summit. Thence up the shoulder over broken rock, steep shale and snow patches to a nearly level snowfield, rising stseply toward the S. (40°) to the summit ridge of broken rock. Ascent, 8 hrs. ; descent 4 hrs. Mt. McConnell. 10250'. C. A. J. iii p. 48. N. W. of Cyclone peak. N. bank of Red Deer river. No data. Said to be easy in appearance. (An unnamed summit to W. was ascended in 19 10 by J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz and E. Feuz, Jr.) Mt. Molar. 9914'. O. p. 281. In N. angle be- tween Molar creek and Pipestone river. N. E. of Mt. Hector. Visible from Lake Louise station. Oyster Peak. 9100'. Topographical Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. W. of Mt. Douglas. S. of pass between Little Pipestone and Red Deer rivers. 191 1. Ascended from camp of Alpine Club of Canada. Pika Peak. 10015'. C. A. J. iv p. 142. Between Ptarmigan peak and Mt. Richardson. 191 1 L. L. Delafield, L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer, E. Feuz, Jr. From head of Corral creek via the Richardson-Pika col and the W, arete, over steep broken rock. Ascent from the col, i hr. Ptarmigan Peak. 10060'. C. A. J. iv p. 114, 142. N. W. of Ptarmigan lake and the pass leading from the head of Corral creek to the Red De^r river. No data as to first ascent. SS SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS Route I. Via the S. face and the E. arete. Route 2. U)ii L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer. From the Richardson- Pika col, by a trav^erse (faUing stones) of the N. faces of Pika peak and the Unnamed peak to E. of the kitter. The route lies above the N. gkicier to broken neve leading to the summit of Ptarmigan peak. Mt. Redoubt. {Fort). 9510'. C. A. J. iv p. in, vii p. 126. S. of Ptarmigan peak and lake. E. of Corral creek. No data as to first ascent. From Ptarmigan lake via the shale slopes and N. arete. Mt. Richardson. 10115'. C. A. J. iv p. 142. Between Pika peak and the Bow-Pipestone junction. 191 1 L. L. Delafield, L. M. Earle, R. Aemmer, E. Feuz, Jr. Route I. Via the S. arete over rock, shale and easy snow- slopes. Route 2. Via the N. arete, over snow and ice from Richardson - Pika col. Mt. St. Bride. {White DoiioJas.) 11220'. Appal., xii, p. 227. C. A. J., #2, p. 319; iii, p. 40; iv, p. I43;viii, p. 136. The S. and highest point of the Douglas massif, lying E. of the pass between the head of Baker creek and sources of Red Deer river. 19 10 J. W. A. Hickson, E. Feuz, E. Feuz, Jr. From Lake Louise station via Ptarmigan valley and pass to a camp near a fine waterfall E. of head of Baker creek (7200'). From here ascend along the stream into a rocky amphitheater, crossing a rock wall at the lowest point and thus gaining the level of a large fiat neve southwest of the peak. Traverse this to the pass at the right and cross same. Descend a steep snow- slope and then skirt the base of the cliffs N. ailong the SUQW tp a point SLATE MTS. AND ADJACENT PEAKS 89 below a notch where there is a cave with a waterfall. A lookout should be kept for falling stones. Gain the notch over snow, ice, or rotten rock, according to conditions and with varying diffi- culty. Cross the flat floor of the notch to the western side and attack the cliffs at the corner. A difficult 15' chimney with an overhanging top requires a party of three to negotiate it success- fully. Bearing diagonally across the southwest face above the cave brings one to an easier 35' chimney (fixed rope) slightly to the right, leading to a platform and easy rocks below another difficult chimney with poor holds and loose rocks (80' fixed rope) . When this is surmounted, the southeast arete is followed to the flat table-like top, 500' above. This is a varied and repaying expedition, presenting some very difficult rock passages and con- suming in all from lo-i i hours from camp. The flat ne've S. W. of the peak may be reached from the north from a camp at Red Deer lakes. The ascent is made through woods past a fine na- tural bridge formation with a waterfall, to the glacier descending from the neve; but this approach is longer. Unnamed. {Second Pika Peak.) 9765'. Between Pika and Ptarmigan peaks. 191 1 L. L. Delafield, E. Feuz, Jr. ' From the Richardson-Pika col, traverse scree on the S. face of Pika peak to the col in the E. arete between it and the objective peak. Ascend a snow-filled couloir and the rock on its E. side to the summit ridge. Traverse for a short distance on the N. side and regain the arete several hundred feet W. of the final peak. Unnamed. 10200'. N. W. of Mt. McConnell, between Red Deer river and the Pipestone. See, Top. Map Rocky Mts. between 50° 37' and 5i°44'. SECTION XIII Miscellaneous Groups West of the Divide VAN HORNE GROUP This group lies entirely in British Columbia territory, with an average altitude of 9000', bounded by the Amiskwi, Kicking Horse, Columbia, and Blaeberry rivers. Mt. Sealion (9640') overlooking the Blaeberry river is the highest summit in the group, most of which has been explored by the Dominion Land Survey, but is now seldom visited. There are no glaciers or snow- fields of importance in the group. Map reference: Top. Map of the Rocky Mountains, 1903-7. Amiskwi Peak. 9249 ^ W. of Amiskwi river, opposite Mt. McArthur. N. E. of Otto pass (Amis- kwi to Blaeberry river). Mt. Deville. (Russell) 94S4'. Alp. Amer., 14. R. D. L, 1891. N. W, of Mt. King. Head of Porcupine creek. 1 89 1 W. S. Drewry. 90 BLACK WATER RANGE 91 Mt. King. (Carnarvon.) 9456'. R. D. I., 1893, ii, p. 76. An. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1906^7, pp. 78, 81. N. angle between Porcupine creek and Kick- ing Horse river. S. end Van Home range. 4 mi. from Ottertail station. 1892 J. J. McArthur. The mountain is hard to approach. The best way is to follow up the bed of the stream flowing into the Otterhead river midway between two groups of cabins to a high basin; cross a shoulder to the north and descend on the other side into the upper basin of Bear cree^.c which flows from Mt. King into the Otterhead river. (Do not attempt to ascend Bear creek from the base of the mountain). Thence follow a steep arete to the summit 7 miles from a camp on the Otterhead river. Descent, via Bear creek, 4 hrs. Ogre Peak. 9279'. W. of Amiskwi river. N. W. of Amiskwi peak. - Red Indian Peak. {Redburn, Redoubt.) 9022'. E. of Blaeberry river. 3 mi. N. W. of'Spike peak. Mt. Sealion. 9640^ E. angle between Split creek and Blaeberry river. W. of Otto pass. Spike Peak. 9583'. S. buttress of pass between sources of Split creek and Otterhead creek. BLACKWATER RANGE AND STEPHENS GROUP The Blackwater range (Spencer Group), 8000- 9003 feet high, lies in the S. W. angle between the 92 BLACK WATER RANGE Bush and Columbia rivers parallel to the latter. There are a number of peaks 8000-9000 feet in altitude and some small glaciers. One of the highest peaks is Blackwater Mt. 8964' ascended by P. A. Carson in 1907 from Blackwater lake, following an old miner's trail N. E. up Black- water creek to a deserted mine at timberline whence the peak was reached in three hours. See An. Rept. Top. Surve3^s Branch, 1907-8, p. 78, and Collie's Map in G. J., xxi, p. 388. The group can be reached from Donald station on the Canadian Pacific railroad, by way of the Columbia river trail or by parallel valleys to the east. The Stephens group lies between the Columbia valley and the North Fork of the Bush river, parallel to the latter. There are several large glaciers supplying Bush river tributaries and the peaks reach an eleva- tion as great as iiooo'. The group is unexplored and none of the high peaks have been clim.bed. Ma|) references: Collie's map given above and map by P. A. Carson accompanying An. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch for 1908-9, pp. 95-96 SECTION XIV Howse Pass to Bush Pass (The Freshfield Group) The Freshfield group embraces the peaks on or near the Divide between Howse and Bush passes, an air- Hne distance of about ten miles but, as the Divide runs, about double this. Mt. Mummery (10918') in British Columbia territory and Mt. Freshfield (10945') on the Divide, are the best known summits, the peaks being named for prominent members of the English Alpine Club. The group is noteworthy for its snow and ice features. The Freshfield icefield and glacier on the north- easterly flanks of Mt. Freshfield and its neighbors comprise one of the most magnificent systems in the Canadian Rockies. The reservoir occupies a trough or basin eight miles long and over two miles wide. Ice streams five and three miles long respectively, unite in a tongue nearly a mile wide, which flows easterly for three miles more. The whole trunk stream is practi- cally nine miles long. The system covers an area of twenty square miles. 93 94 FRESH FIELD GROUP The range may be approached (i) from Lake Louise via the Bow valley, Bow pass, the Mistaya river (South branch of the North Saskatchewan) and Howse river, or (2) from Field, by wa}' of the Amiskwi river, Baker pass, the upper Blaeberry river and Howse pass. Via route (i) under good conditions the group may be reached in four days. After cross- ing Bow pass, the Mistaya river is followed down to its junction with the Middle Branch of the North Sas- katchewan, this then being ascended to its source in the Freshfield glacier and on Howse pass. There is no trail, however, up the middle branch, the gravel bars of the river being followed between rough banks. At high water, therefore, this route may be impracticable. The trail distance is about sixty-five miles. Via route (2) the distance traveled is about forty miles, but there is considerable steep climbing in the upper Blaeberry valley and fallen timber is apt to be trouble- some. The trip takes about 43^ days. The group surrounds the Freshfield icefield on three sides and falls into three subdivisions as follows: (l) CONWAY SUBDIVISION The peaks form the east retaining wall of the Fresh- field glacier and icefield. The Lambe glacier and the Conway glacier, flowing eastward from the group on opposite sides of the Divide, are sources respectively of Blaeberry river and Howse river. Mt. Solitaire (10800') is the chief summit. FRESHFIELD GROUP 95 Mt. Bergne. 10420'. ABC, Sheet #18. The most westerly peak of the Conway subdivision between the Conway glacier and the Freshfield icefield. 19 1 7 ABC Boundary Survey. Mt. Conway. 10170'. ABC, Sheet #18. G. J., xxi, p. 493. O., p. 323. Continental Divide. 3 mi. S. W. of Howse pass. The Conway glacier, flowing from the W. across the northerly slopes, drains into Howse river. Mt. Lambe. 10438'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- tinental Divide, 2 mi. S. W. of Mt. Conway. The ridge of peaks extending N. W. from this summit separates the Conway glacier from the Freshfield ice- field and forms the N. E. wall of the latter. 19 1 7 ABC Boundary Survey. Mt. Margerie. 9890^ ABC, Sheet #18. E. of Continental Divide. Half mile N. E. of Mt. Whit- eaves, on the wall separating Lambe and Cairnes glaciers. & Mt. Skene. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #18. Between Freshfield and Conway glaciers, three quarters of a mile N. E. of Mt. Bergne. Mt. Solitaire. Io8oo^ ABC, Sheet #18. Be- tween Freshfield and Conway glaciers at the source of the latter, i mi. N. W. of Mt. Lambe. i mi. S. E. of Mt. Bergne. 96 FRESH FIELD GROUP Mt. Strahan. 9960'. ABC, Sheet #18. N. peak of the ridge between Freshfield and Conway glaciers. I mi. N. E. of Mt. Skene. Mt. Termier. 9385^ ABC, Sheet #18. W. of Continental Divide on ridge separating Lambe and Cairnes glaciers i mi. E. of Mt. Margerie. Mt. Whiteaves. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- tinental Divide. S. peak of the Conway subdivision. 4 mi. S. of Mt. Conway. The ridge of peaks running N. E. separates Lambe and Cairnes glaciers, the upper sources of Blaeberry river. (2) MUMMERY SUBDIVISION This massif is the southern wall of the Freshfield neve. Mt. Mummery (10918'), the highest summit, lies entirely in British Columbia, its glaciers draining into Blaeberry river. Mt. Barlow. 10320'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- tinental Divide. S. wall of Freshfield icefield. S. W. of Mt. Low. E. of Mt. Helmer. Mt. Cairnes. 10120'. ABC, Sheet #18. W. of Continental Divide. S. of Cairnes glacier and 2 mi. S. E. of Mt. Barlow. 4 mi. N. E. of Mt. Mummery. W. bank of Blaeberry river, Mt. Gilgit. 10300'. ABC, Sheet #18. Conti- nental Divide. Half mile W. of Mt. Helmer. Half mile E. of Mt. Nanga Parbat. FRESH FIELD GROUP 97 Mt. Helmer. I0045^ ABC, Sheet #i8. Con- tinental Divide. i3^ mi. W. of Mt. Barlow and 3 mi. directly N. of Mt. Mummery, the Divide here separating Freshfield neve from the Mummery glacier. Mt. Laussedat. 10035'. Alp. Am., p. 19. Rept. Top. Surveys Branch, 1907-8, p. 77. 10 mi. S. W. of Mt. Mummery. W. of Blaeberry river. Although listed here for convenience, this peak does not belong to the Freshfield group. 1907 P. A. Carson. From a camp on E. side Blaeberry river 15 mi. from Moberly on the railway, cross river and ascend ridge N. W. towards peak. Bivouac at timberline and climb precipitous rocks and steep snow couloir. Ascent from bivouac, 5 hr. Descent to same, 4 hrs. Mt. Low. 10075'. ABC, Sheet #18. Continental Divide. Half mile S. of Mt. Whiteaves. The N. peak of the Mummery subdivision, the Divide here separating Freshfield neve from the Cairnes glacier. Mt. Mummery. 10918'. A. J., xix, p. no. Appal., xi,p. 221. C. A. J., iii, p. 4. C, p. 29. O., pp. 212, 324. S. of Continental Divide. Head of W. fork of Blae- berry river. The highest summit of the Mummery subdivision. 1906 I. T. Burr, Jr., S. Cabot, Jr., W. R. Peabody, R. Walcott , G. Feuz, C. Kaufmann. From Field via the Amiskwi river. Baker pass and upper Blae- berry river. Camp near the stream descending from the Mum- mery glacier. Via the rocks on the S. side of the valley and long 98 FRESH FIELD GROUP talus slopes, gain the E. arete at its lowest point by crossing the dry glacier S. of the Mummery icefall. Follow the ardte, travers- ing on the W. slopes where necessary and approaching the cul- minating peak from the W. Steep ice near the top requires step- cutting. The highest slabs are a short distance to the S. Ascent, 10 hrs. Mt. Nanga Parbat. 10780'. ABC, Sheet #18. Continental Divide. 1.75 mi. E. of Mt. Trutch. Highest peak on S. wall of Freshfield icefield. Mt. Trutch. 10690'. ABC, Sheet #18. Conti- nental Divide. 1.5 mi. E. of Mt. Barnard. N. W. peak of Mummery subdivision. S. wall of Freshfield icefield. Unnamed. 9400'. ABC, Sheet #18. 23/2 mi. N. W. of Mt. Mummery, adjoining Mt. Trutch on S.; E. mari^in of Waitabit glacier and lake. (3) BARNARD-DENT SUBDIVISION This constitutes the west wall of the Freshfield glacier basin and is dominated by Mt. Freshfield (10945'), and Mt. Barnard (10955'), the highest sum- mits of the entire group. The Campbell icefield on the western slopes is the chief source of the South Fork of Bush river. Mt. Barnard. 10955'. ABC, Sheet #18. Con- tinental Divide. S. peak of W. wall of Freshfield icefield. S. of Mt. Bulyea. W. of Mt. Trutch. FRESH FIELD GROUP 99 Mt. Bulyea. {Mt. Burgener.) 10900'. ABC, Sheet #18. C. A. J., iii, p. 8. Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. Barnard. S. E. of Prior Peak. S. of the Pilkington- Walker snowfield. 19 10 J. E. C. Eaton, H. Burgener. (Compare Mts. Pilkington and Walker.) From the Pilkington- Walker snowfield via the N. arete; an easy climb over snow and rock. Ascent from the snowfield, i hr. Mt. Alan Campbell. 96oo^ ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. 4.5 mi. W. of Mt. Freshfield. W. of the Campbell icefield, Coronation Mt. 10420'. ABC, Sheet #18. O., p. 346. C, p. 276. A. J., vol. xxi, p. 368. E. of Con- tinental Divide. Between Forbes and Freshfield brooks. Mt. Dent. 10720.' C. A. J., iii, p. 9. O., p. 314. Continental Divide. 3.5 mi. S. of Bush pass, i mi. N. W. of Mt. Freshfield. 1910 J. E. C. Eaton, N. Marocco, //. Burgener. From a camp at the foot of Freshfield glacier, via the glacier and the E. arete over snow and very rotten rock to snow-slopes and a small bergschrund which is crossed to a col below the summit. Thence traverse S. over rocks and snow to the peak. Follow the arete and descend to the S. snowfield from whence the W. arete of Mt. Freshfield may be reached and that peak traversed. Ascent, 7 hrs. Traverse of Mts. Dent and Freshfield with the intervening snow dome, 14 hrs. Mt. Freshfield. 10945'. A. J., xxi, p. 367. C. A. J.,iii, p. 10; vi, p.96. C, pp. 251, 266. G. J., xxi, p. 100 FRESH FIELD GROUP 488. CV. p. ^^Ji>. Conlinonlal Dixido bolwoon All. 1\m\1 ami Ml. I'ilkinj^tiMi. U)i)j J.N. ColUc. J. Out ram. 11. K. M. vStultioUl, Ck M. Wood. 11. \\'oolU>\ . ('. Kanfniiuin, 11. KuKfniann. I'^Din tho l-'roshtloUl tribut;u\' to Howso rivor prooood m'or tho iliy l-'roslUioUl s^laoior atul up tho olitTs on tho N. sido of tho ioofall (_(i \\\'\.; 2 \\v<..^ to hafd suow loadin.u u\'> *iiH/loau uppor vilaoior on tho S. K. whioh is oi\>ssod to tho main K. ar(>lo of tho mountain. Tiio romaindor of tho olimb is mainly on rook, followini; tho orost of tho brokon aroto with an oooasional short travorso. Tho sum- mit is hoavilv oi>rniood. AsoimU from t\H>t of b^ri'shtioUl .ulaoior, S hrs. wSoo alst> Mt. HimU. Mt. Garth. c)c)7o'. ABC. Sheet #18. E. of Coii- titienlal nixide. N. iiiari^iii oi FreshfieUI i.;hioicr toiii^iie. 1 mi. S. o^ Covou:\{\ou Mt. betwooit l^'^i^rbes and Fresli field bt*iHiks. Mt. Niverville. 07^0'. A1K\ Sheet ^Vi8. E. of Cotitiiteiilal nixide. i mi. S. K. o\ Hush pass. N. W. of Pivshlield «;kKner. 1 mi. S. W. oi Mt. C.afth. Pangman Peak. 10420'. ABC, Sheet iS. Coti- tiiieiUal nixide. ^> mi. S. o\' Ihish pass. ^ ■> mi. N. W. of Mt. Dent. Mt. Pilkington. 10830'. C. A. J., iii, p. 7: C. p. ^2. O., p. ;^JJ. CiMititieiital Divide. 2 mi. S. K. oi Mt. FivshtieUl. U)io I. I*!. C\ ICaton, //. Buro(-n(r, H. Dtto. From tiio snout of tho h^roshlioKl .ulaoior, on^ss tho ioo S. W. and asooi\d tho stoop N. 1*!. snow-slopos, (."rossins; a small bori;sohiund. FRESH FIELD GROUP loi loose rock and snow, (,,> Mu' N. a,.vlr. Tlu« a.vU- is ro.nposc.l of rotten rock and snow and is r,.ll,nvcd t., the suniniil Tlu> S summit ,s the higher and is reached via, the intervening snow col the route inchuhn^^ two slal)I,y Ke.ularnu-s which are traversed' Descend via the S. rid^^etothe snowfield between Mts. Pilkington and Walker. Asc>ent from camp to N. summit, 5 hrs 45 niin • N. toS. summit, ■; hr. Descent to Pilkington- Walker sn.iwheld,' I Iir. Route may be combined with asc-t>uts of Mts. Wanr and' Bulyea; total time from camp, 13 hrs. Prior Peak, xoy^o'. ABC, Sheet //18. Con- tinental Divide. 1^ mi. S. W. of Mt. Pilkin^^ton. Mt. Walker. 10835'. ABC, Sheet //18. C.A.J. , "'' P- ^"^^ C., p. 52. ()., ,). 323. Freshficld ndve. E.' ol Continental Divide. • ;> nii. S. I^:. of Mt. Pilkin<,4on. 1910 J. E. C. Eaton, H. Burgener, B. Otto. Via the Freshfield glacier and the I>ilkington-Walker snowfield over slabs, scree, and snow to the S. W. arete which is followed to the summit. Ascent from the Pilkington-Walker snowfield >2 hr.; descent from the summit to camp below the- h-^rcsiiCrld' glacier, 4 hrs. SECTION XV Bush Pass to Thompson Pass (Forbes-Lyell Group) The Forbes-Lyell group includes peaks on or near the Continental Divide between Bush and Thompson passes, an air-line approximating twenty miles. On the Divide, Mt. Alexandra (11214') and Mt. Lyell ( 1 1495') dominate the group, the latter standing at the head of the Lyell glacier, eight miles long, de- scending in a huge icefalL The glaciers which mantle the roughly conical massif of, Mt. Lyell aggregate approximately thirty-eight square miles in area. The peaks of the Divide average about loooo'. East of the Divide, Mt. Forbes reaches an altitude of 1 1902', while in British Columbia territory Bush peak is prominent (10770'). Outfits may be brought in by way of Bow pass and the Mistaya river, the peaks being accessible from the Middle Fork or from the West Branch of the North Saskatchewan river. Neither Bush pass (7860') nor Thompson pass (65 11') is suitable for horses,. 103 FORBES-LYELL GROUP 103 Mt. Alexandra. (Mt. Lyell, Query peak.) 11214'. Appal., X, pp. 147,210. C.A.J.,i, # i,p.44. C.,p. 198. O., pp. 367, 400. On Continental Divide. W. of Mt. Lyell and Gable peak. Head of Trident glacier and the W. branch of the N. Fork of the N. Saskatchewan river. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. From camp in the West Branch valley, at 5300', ascend i mi. to the W. affluent of the Trident glacier, avoiding the icefall by- detours on the rocks to the N. and following the crevassed glacier to its head on the Divide, in Trident col (loooo'; 5 hrs.). See also Consolation peak and Turret peak. Cross the col and traverse neve on the British Columbia side, close under the arete, to a notch in the spur running S. W. from Consolation peak (the highest point of the Alexandra N. arete). Descend into the glacial basin beyond, crossing to the base of the long sloping back of Mt. Alexandra. Gain the W. arete by way of a col between the main peak and a subsidiary peak a short distance to W. Follow the easy arete of steep snow to the summit. (80 min. from the col in the W. arete.) Ascent from camp, 7 3^ hrs.; descent, 5 hrs. Mt. Arras. 10180'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. E. angle between Icefall brook, rising from the S. W. Lyell glacier, and the S. branch of Bush river, flowing from Bush pass. Bush Mt. (N.) 10420'. (S.) 10770'. A. J., XX, p. 497. C, pp. 197, 227. O., pp. 314, 402. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. N. W. angle between Icefall brook and S. branch of Bush river, I04 FORBES-LYELL GROUP The N. peak, Icefall peak, and the S. or Rostrum peak are i mi. apart. Mt. Cambrai. 10380'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- tinental Divide, 3 mi. N. of Bush pass. Consolation Peak. 11200'. O., p. 397. Conti- nental Divide, between Trident col and Mt. Alexandra. The highest point of the N. W. arete of Mt. Alexandra. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. For route to Trident col see Mt. Alexandra. From Trident col ascend the N. W. arete of Mt. Alexandra to its highest point. The N. face of Mt. Alexandra is inaccessible from this peak. Ascent from camp: Trident col, 5 hrs.; peak, i>'2 hrs. Duplex Mt. ca. loooo'. Sectional Map, Sheet #213, "Athabasca." N. W. of Bush peak. W. of Continental Divide. E. angle between Lyell creek and S. Fork of Bush river. Mt. Ego. ca. loooo'. Sectional Map, Sheet #213. N. E. angle between Lyell creek and N. Fork of Bush river. W. of Continental Divide. Mt. Forbes. 11902'. A. J., xxi, p. 370. C. A .J., iii, p. 4. C, pp. 49, 273. G. J., xxi,p.49i. O., p. 345. E. of Continental Divide. E. of Bush pass and Mt. Kaufmann. W. bank of Middle Fork of N. Sas- katchewan river. 1902 J. N. ColHe, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. Route I. Establish camp (5700') at the base of the S. W. arete FORBES-LYELL GROUP 105 in the valley of the stream from Bush pass. From a bivouac {ca. 7000'), the S. W. arete is reached via scree and snow-covered glacier and forms the general line of ascent. The arete is narrow, jagged, and the rock very rotten. Short traverses across ledges and gullies on the E. face are necessary to turn certain portions of the arete and finally a summit (Golden Eagle peak) with a depression on the far side, below the main peak, is reached. ( 1 0000'; 5>^ hrs.). The cliffs on the far side rise sheerly and holds are few; about 300' of difficult rock- work leads to a second cliff which is traversed toward W. and ascended by means of chimneys and a short snow-filled couloir (2 hrs.). At the top, a narrow arete extends to a third cliff of less difficulty than the other two but composed of very loose rock. Above this, a short knife-edge of snow and' rotten shale connects with the final snow arete (i hr.). Heavy cornice to E. In 1920 the second ascent of the peak was made by J. W. A. Hickson with E. Feuz, Jr. Route 2. Descend via the very steep snow- slopes of the N. face (step -cutting) with detour to avoid the cliffs forming the terminal cirque of the W. ridge; glissade to snow below the W. wall and regain the route of ascent at the base of the S. W. arete (5>^ hrs.). Total time from camp, 14 hrs. Golden Eagle Peak. loooo'. ABC, Sheet #18. E. of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. E. of Bush pass, on the S. W. arete of Mt. Forbes, i mi. from summit of the latter. 1902 J. N. Collie, J. Outram, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley, C. Kaufmann, H. Kaufmann. The peak is traversed in the usual route of ascent of Mt. Forbes, via the S. W. arete. For details, see Mt. Forbes. Mt. St. Julien. 10140'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- tinental Divide. S. margin of Mons icefield, i mi, W. of Mt. Messines. io6 FOKBES-LYELL GROUP Mt. Kemmel. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide, 5 mi. N. of Bush Mt. W. of Icefall brook and i mi. S. W. of Mt. La Clytte. Mt. La Clytte. 9505'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. W. margin of S. W. Lyell ice- field between Mt. Kemmel and Mt. Lens. Mt. Lens. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. W. margin of S. W. Lyell ice- field. I mi. N. of Mt. La Clytte. Mt. Lyell. 1 1495'. A. J., xxi, p. 338. Appal., x, p. 142. C. A.J.,i,#i,p.44. C.,p.300. O., pp. 336, 388. Continental Divide. E. of Mt. Alexandra and Gable peak. Head of Lyell glaciers and between Glacier river and the West Branch. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. From camp on the West Branch (5300'), traverse woods to the flats leading to E. affluent of Trident glacier (descending frorri the gap between Gable peak and Mt. Lyell). Follow along the right bank to the E. icefall, where a steep cliff is ascended to the high lateral moraine at the head of the icefall. Proceed along the crest of the moraine and over flat glacier to the bergschrund (5 hrs.), crossing to steep rock and snow (step- cutting) and reaching a deep crevassed hollow between the central peak and spurs rising from the E. and W. summits. Ascend over steep snow to the high col (iiooo') between the central and W. summits, whence the central and highest summit is. reached. Ascent from camp, B% hrs.; total time, 17K hrs, with 3 hrs. on top. FORBES-LYELL GROUP 107 Mt. Messines. 10290'. ABC, Sheet #19. Con- tinental Divide. S. margin of Mons icefield between Mt. Cambrai and Mt. St. Julien. Mons Peak. 10114'. (Kaufmann.) ABC, Sheet #19. Appal., X, p. 209. O., p. 311. Continental Divide. The W. peak of the Mons icefield, i mi. S. of a low glacial pass, 8150', which joins the Mons ice- field with the S. W. Lyell glaciers. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. From Howse river, proceed via the Lyell glacier stream and N. margin of Glacier lake to camp, i mi. below the Lyell glacier (4800'). Thence ascend the Mons glacier (Kaufmann glacier of Outram) which flows from the Divide between Mons peak and Mt. Forbes. , Follow its steep left bank and cross the neve to the base of the sharp peak, the final portions of which are of steep ice, demanding considerable step-cutting. Ascent from foot of glacier, 6}4 hrs. Mt. Outram. (Little Mt. Forbes.) 10670'. 2 mi. N. E. of Mt. Forbes. Turret Peak. 10200'. O., p. 399. Continental Divide. S. buttress of Thompson pass. A peak on the N. arete of Mt. Alexandra, between Trident col and Thompson pass. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. For route to Trident col, see Mt. Alexandra. From Trident col (loooo'; 5 hrs.), cross snow-slopes below the arete, on the Thomp- son pass side, and follow the crest of rotten rock eastward to a peak crowned by two rock towers (3 hrs.). Descend to N. E. over loose scree and snow to Thompson pass, 5 hrs. from Trident col. Ascent from camp, via Trident glacier and ^qol, 8 hrs.. io8 FORBES-LYELL GROUP Mt. Valenciennes. 10160'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide, 3 mi. N. W. of Bush pass. ^| Watchman Peak. loooo'. O., pp. 362, 408. E. of Continental Divide. S. of Thompson pass. N. E. of Turret peak. Mt. Zillebeke. 9750'. ABC, Sheet #19. W. of Continental Divide. E. angle between Icefall brook and S. branch of Bush river. 2 mi. S. E. of Mt. Arras. NOTE An advance copy of Sheet No. 20 of the Boundary Commission gives the first adequate representation of Mt. Lyell and its neigh- boring peaks, as far as Thompson pass, 651 1'. It is somewhat difficult to reconcile the compass points and climbing directions given above with the map. Further mountaineering work will be necessary to clear the situation up satisfactorily. The Lyell massif has five peaks with elevations as follows: — • 1 1495', 1 1260', and 1 1 150', on the Divide, while two, 11495', and 1 1370', lie east of the Divide. On the Divide between Mt. Lyell and Thompson pass these peaks appear, named from S. to N.; — Farbus, 10550'; Oppy, 10940'; Douai, '10230'; Alexandra, 1 12 14'; Fresnoy, 10730'; Spring Rice, 10745'; Watchman, 9873' (ascended by the Survey) ; unnamed, 10990', which is the N. peak of Alexandra. Two of these peaks are the " Turret" and "Con- solation ' ' peaks of Outram. East of the Continental Divide the following newly-named peaks are shown in this group : — Hooge, 10550'; Monchy, 10530'; Willerval, 10420'; and Arctomys Peak, 9162' (ascended by the Survey) . West of the Divide are the following: — Whiterose, 10060', and Queant, 10200'. The Trident glacier of Outram embraces the Alexandra glaciers and the E. Rice glacier of the map. In the Columbia group on Sheet No. 20 appear the following, all east of the Divide :— Saskatchewan, 10964'; Castleguard, 10096' (ascended by the Survey) ; Terrace, 9570'; and the Castle- lets, 9440'. SECTION XVI Murchison Group (East of the Divide) The group includes the peaks of the North Saskat- chewan drainage system, east of the North and South Forks of the latter. On the south, the group is bounded by the Bow-Pipestone line of passes which separate the North Saskatchewan from the Bow river. On the north, the boundary is the series of passes (Wilcox, Nigel, Cataract, etc.) which separate the North Saskatchewan and Brazeau rivers. The group lies entirely in Alberta, the highest peak being Mt. Murchison, II300^ The southern approach is by way of the Bow river and pass to the Mistaya river. Mt. Cline. iiooo'. C, p. 306. G. J., xxi, p. 495. Highest peak of the group lying between Cataract river and the North Saskatchewan river. N. E. of Mt. Wilson. Mt. Coleman, iiooo'. Collie's map in G. J., xxi, p. 588. E. bank of North Fork. N. W. of Mt. Wil- son. W. of Pinto lake. Mt. Murchison. 11300'. A. J., xxi, p. 365. C, pp. 138,251. G.J., xxi, p. 487. 0.,p.302. S.E. angle 109 no MURCHISON GROUP between Mistaya river and N. Saskatchewan river. S. E. of Mt. Wilson. 1902 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Kaufmann. From camp at the junction of the Mistaya river with the main Saskatchewan river, via the W. face. Follow a dry stream-bed and ascend a series of shale slopes to a narrow snow couloir, and via the rocks on its right (to avoid falling stones) reach the N. W. arete over snow-slopes. The highest peak is snow-clad and is invisible from the Mistaya river ; it is reached over long slopes of rock and shale, leading to corniced summit. The rock peak to E. is slightly lower. Ascent, 7.5 hrs. Mt. Noyes. 10040'. A. J., xxi, p. 374. C, p. 305. G. J., xxi, p. 495. E. of Mistaya river, 2 mi. N. W. of Mt. Weed. ABC, Sheet #17. 1902 J. N. ColHe, H. E. M. Stutfield, G. M. Weed, H. Woolley. By way of a corrie in the W. face. Above this, a steep snow couloir leads up to easy rocks and shale over which the summit is reached. Observation Peak. 10214'. Appal., ix., pp. 19, 25, 91. "Camping in the Canadian Rockies," by W. D. Wilcox, pp. 208-9. N. E. buttress of Bow pass. 1895 W. D. Wilcox, W. Peyto. Climbed from Bow pass via the southerly ridge. A narrow snow arete was traversed near the summit. In 1898 C. L,. Noyes, C. S. Thompson, and G. M. Weed made a climb described in the refer- ence thus: "From the head of Dolomite pass (8100') we climbed by an easy ascent a mountain 9750' (by aneroid) in elevation . . . and named it Mt. Observation." As the Observation peak of the map lies some five miles to the northwestof Dolomite pass and is 102 14' high, it is thought that this party ascended a different peak, possibly the present Cirque peak (9758')- On the map it is located i mi. frorn Dolomite pass. MURCHISON GROUP lit Mt. Silverhorn. Shown on Collie's Map (G. J., xxi, p. 588) as a peak E. of Mt. Noyes and between the latter and Dolomite stream. Mt. Stewart. IOOOO^ G. J., xxi, p. 509. 5 mi. N. of Pinto lake. E. buttress of Cataract pass. (Braz- eau river to Cataract river.) 1902 A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman. Incomplete ascent. From Cataract pass, 7000', by way of the W. side. An impassable cliff was reached at 9830'. Mt. Weed. loioo'. ABC, Sheet #17. N. W. of Observation peak between Mistaya river and Dolo- mite stream. MX. Wilson. 1 1000'. Appal., x, p. 210. C, p. 83. 0-> P- 33 1; N. angle between North Fork and North Saskatchewan river. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaujmann. Route I. From camp on the North Fork at the foot of Pinto pass, proceed to the head of the narrow valley on 'the N. side of Mt. Wilson (i hr.) ; ascend via the right bank of the stream to the foot of a large waterfall, cross the stream and ascend the 300' rock- wall to a lesser valley whence the arete running N. E. from the N. peak of the massif may be gained. Cross to the glacier on the far side (6.5 hrs.) and ascend to its head, gaining the N. E. arete of the main summit by a traverse on snow and debris. Follow the crest of snow to the top (2 hrs. 45 min.). Route 2. Descend southward over snow and steep rock to a notch in the S. wall (2 hrs.) and thence by a steep gully of scree and grass down 2500' to timberline and through dense forest to junction of the North Fork with the main N. Saskatchewan river. Total time, 13.5 hrs. SECTION XVII Thompson Pass to Fortress Lake (Columbia Group) The Columbia group includes the peaks on or near the Divide, north of Thompson pass as far as Fortress lake (and pass). The eastern boundary may be taken as the North Fork of the North Saskatchewan and the Sun Wapta rivers. Speaking generally, the group is included between the drainage of the North Fork of the North Saskatchewan to the east, the Athabasca drainage to the north, and the Columbia drainage to the south and west. The air-line distance between Thompson pass and Fortress lake is about thirty miles. The group is only scantily known, being situated near the limits of the journeys of the earlier travelers whose climbs were often made under conditions that precluded satisfactory observations. Very recently the Interprovincial Boundary Survey has investigated the district so that full information will doubtless be available when the next report is published. The authors have had the unusual privilege of examining 112 COLUMBIA GROUP 113 and utilizing in this volume some of the preliminary results of the survey and they desire at this point to make full and grateful acknowledgment for the courtesies extended. On the Divide itself Mt. Columbia (12294'), The Dome (i 1340'), and Mt. King Edward VII. (11400') are the dominating peaks, while north of the Divide, the North Twin and Mt. Alberta reach altitudes of 12085' s-nd 1 1874' respectively. The Columbia ice- field in the central portion of the group covers an area of roughly 125 square miles, being the largest in the range. The concentration of great peaks (a dozen between iiooo' and 12294'), the number and size of the glaciers, and the general scale of magni- ficence, all combine to stamp the group as the scenic climax of the Canadian Rockies, although it does not include their loftiest summit. From Mt. King Edward VII. the course of the Con- tinental Divide is westerly for some twenty miles over the peaks and snowfields at the heads of both forks of the Chaba river. It then makes an abrupt turn northerly along the crest of the Chaba basin and so reaches the pass at the east end of Fortress lake. There are some fine glaciers at the head of the Chaba and at least a dozen nameless peaks on the Divide reach elevations between loooo' and 10500'. In the "V" between the Sun Wapta and the Atha- basca, a few miles north of Mt. Alberta, there is a good-sized snowfield bordered by several attractive 114 COLUMBIA GROUP cathedral-like peaks of the 10500' class. This area appears never to have been investigated although it is but a five days' journey from Jasper. Below the glacier on the west, near timberline, lies a pretty lake. Between the Chaba and the Athabasca also is a gore of territory containing well-formed peaks of the Gothic type of which something will be heard in the future. Wide fiat-lying glaciers guard their upper approaches, draining easterly into the Athabasca through narrow valleys. Outfits may be brought in to the Columbia group from Lake Louise by way of Bow and Wilcox passes or from Jasper on the Canadian National Railways either by way of the Sun Wapta, or the Athabasca, or the Chaba rivers. From Lake Louise to Wilcox pass in an air-line is about seventy miles; from Jasper it is something over sixty miles. Most of the high peaks occur on the easterly side of the group towards Wilcox pass, but Mt. Alberta, The Twins, Mt. Colum- bia, Mt. Chaba, and The Blackfriars are nearer to the Athabasca and Chaba rivers. Fortress lake is most readily accessible from Jasper via the Athabasca and Chaba rivers. It can be reached in four days com- fortably, although, as most of the way lies along the banks of the rivers, the time will vary considerably according to the stage of the water. Approaches to the group from the Columbia valley by way of the trib- utary streams are impracticable. From Lake Louise to Jasper, a pack train will take from 12-14 days. COLUMBIA GROUP 115 ROUTE DATA FOR THE UPPER ATHABASCA VALLEY AND FORTRESS LAKE The Columbia group is, on the whole, most readily accessible from Jasper. Mt. Columbia is distant from there about six or seven days, the trail following the Athabasca all the way. The traveling from Jasper up the Athabasca valley is good, the chief difficulty being to find suitable camping places combined with feed and water at intervals of a regular day's march apart. These have now become fairly well fixed as follows : The first day, camp at the falls of the Athabasca (20 mi., 7 hrs. ; trail good; bridges across the Whirlpool and the Athabasca; cabip, telephone, and fire warden at the falls). The second day, camp either at Ranger creek (12 mi., 4.5 hrs.; good feed) or at the confluence of the Sun Wapta and the Atha- basca (16 mi., 6 hrs. ; feed scanty). The ford over the Sun Wapta leads acrdss the east end of a small island. The channels con- tain large stones so that fording at high-water may be trouble- some. The third day, reach either the confluence of the Chaba (12 mi., from the Sun Wapta, 5 hrs.; 16 mi. from Ranger creek, 6.5 hrs.; feed scanty except across the Athabasca on the Chaba flats) or gain Fortress lake (17 mi. from the Sun Wapta, 7 hrs.; feed abun- dant). On the march to Fortress lake the ford of the so-called West Branch of the Athabasca has good bottom but deep swift water. It is made, at the obvious place, to the east bank of the Chaba. The so-called West Branch appears to carry considera- bly more water than the Chaba and so to be 'the real source of the Athabasca. If bound for Mt. Columbia, conditions in the upper Athabasca valley are harder. For the full distance of twenty miles feed is poor and scanty; the faintly-marked trail is boggy and at high- water is passable only with considerable difficulty. The trip will take about three days under fair conditions and there is no feed when one arrives. For a stay, the horses must be sent back, or feed must be packed in. CLIMBING CONDITIONS NEAR MOUNT COLUMBIA Nor can one make a particularly favorable report about the situation for mountain climbing at the head of the Athabasca. The valley is low, 4700 feet, and the surrounding slopes are steep, heavily forested, and guarded by palisades of horizontal cliff belts. ii6 COLUMBIA GROUP The peaks are sculptured on a vast scale and are widely separated from each other. Probably in every instance a special high camp would be required, with much preliminary reconnaissance. Easy ways of access to timberline, such as favorable couloirs, open staircase-ledges, and fans of scree, are rare. The valley glaciers are mostly broken by shattered icefalls. Once gain the upper plateaus, from which the peaks frequently spring, and one- is faced with the need, in many cases, of covering long distances on the snow before real climbing can commence. In every respect the Columbia group presents elements of quite exceptional diffi- culty. Mt. Alberta. II874^ C, p. 129. O., p. 374, 436. Ten miles N. of Mt. Columbia, between Mt. Woolley and the Athabasca river. As yet unclimbed, but probably will turn out to be one of the most difficult rock peaks in the Canadian Rockies. Its appearance is extraordinarily grand and forbidding from all sides. Mt. Athabasca. 11452'. C, p. 105. O., p. 329. S. of Wilcox pass, between the Saskatchewan and Athabasca glaciers. 1898 J. N. Colhe, H. Woolley. Route I. From camp on N. side of Wilcox pass, follow the small E. glacier keeping to the right. Cross the N. E. ridge to the glacier on the far side, which is ascended into a great basin be- neath the summit. An ice-slope is ascended to the N. E. arete, whence a steep narrow ice arete (step cutting; 2 hrs.) leads to a small platform below the precipitous rocks of the peak. A short traverse to the right leads to a narrow chimney (loose rock) which is climbed. A 15' wall (difficult) is then ascended and the summit reached. Route 2. Descent via the N. W. arete. Total time, 15 hrs.- COLUMBIA GROUP 117 Black Friars. 10400'. Appal., x, p. 33. W. of Fortress lake. Mt. Bryce. 11507'- A. J., xx, p. 498; xxi, p. 464. Appal., X, p. 142. C, p. 99, 108. C. A. J., i,#i, p. 44. O., p. 412. W., p. 247. W. of Continental Divide. N. buttress of Thompson pass. S. of Columbia icefield. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. From a camp at 7000' on Thompson pass, cross the Divide and ascend scree slopes to the little glacier at the base of the mountain. Then mounting the high lateral moraine, cross snow and ice to- wards the rocks of a subsidiary point E. of the main m.ountain mass; ascend snow and slabs to the connecting ridge above, arriving on the m^in E. ar^te above the neve descending to the Columbia glaciers (9500'; 3 hrs.). Follow the sharp snow-cov- vered arete toward W., traversing a number of ice gullies and reaching a 70' cliff which is ascended by a narrow chimney, filled with loose rock, the last 20' being difficult. Above this, the gradient lessens and rock gives way to snow and ice (step-cutting) leading to the E. peak (loooo'; 7 hrs.). To avoid the long arete and traverse of the central peak, descend 600' of steep snow to S., reaching the glacier sweeping below the three peaks; skirt the central cliffs and regain the arete at a narrow gap between the Central and W. peaks. A difficult corniced arete (step cutting) is then followed to the W. and highest summit, 900' above. Ascent from camp, 11 hrs. Total time 20.5 hrs. (Actual elevation as- cended is only 4700'.) Mt. Chaba. 10300'. Appal., x, p. 34. O., p. 434. At head of the S. E. fork of the Chaba river, N. E. of Eden peak. ii8 COLUMBIA GROUP 1 90 1 J. Habel, D. Campbell. From a camp below the tongue, cross the stream and proceed for 3 hrs. via the true left side of the Eden glacier and the glacier itself to the col (9245') E. of Eden peak. Thence via the S. W. arete to the summit of Mt. Chaba. .Ascent from camp 7.5 hrs.; descent 5 hrs. Mt. Columbia. 12294'. A. J., xxi, p. 337. Appal., X, p. 142. C, p. 108, 117, 260. C. A. J., i, # i, p. 44. 0-> P- 376, 434. Continental Divide, W. of Dome, on the W. margin of the Columbia icefield. Head of *' W. Branch" of the Athabasca river. 1902 J. Outram, C. Kaufmann. From a camp (at 6000') below the Columbia ice-tongue, draining into the West branch of the North Saskatchewan river, traverse forest and moraine to the steep dry glacier tongue which is ascend- ed to the neve at 8000'. Threading crevasses, proceed S. W. of Dome, 12 mi. across the main plateau of neve, crossing the Divide and circling the head of the central W. glacier (Bush river source) to the base of Mt. Columbia (10300'; 9 hrs.). Cross bergschrund and ascend steep snow of S. E. arete 1200' to its junction with the S. W. arete. Above this, an ice escarpment requires a short distance of step-cutting and leads to the summit. Ascent, 11.5 hrs.; total, 22 hrs. Diadem Peak. 11060'. A. J., xix, p. 262, 461. C, p. 128. G. J.,xiii, p. 351. 0.,p. 34. N. of PeakWooUey, between the Sun Wapta and the ''West Branch" of the Athabasca river. 1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. From a camp at the head of the Sun Wapta,- follow the narrow canyon of the W. tributary coming from the Diadem glacier. Thence proceed via the N. margin of the Diadem icefall to the foot of the E. face. Ascend the steep and insecure rock rib i^i the COLUMBIA GROUP 119 line of the E. arete to avoid falling stones. The last 150' of the peak is gained over steep snow-slopes to the flat rocky summit. Dome. 11340'. C, p. 121. O., p. 375. Con-, tinental Divide. E. of Mt. Columbia. N. of Mt. Bryce. Dome is the hydrographic apex of the Rockies as it drains into the Columbia, Saskatchewan, and Athabasca river systems. 1898 J. N. Collie, H. E. M. Stutfield, H. Woolley. Traverse the right (E.) bank of the Athabasca glacier from the Columbia icefield. Then ascend the three icefalls, threading many crevasses westward toward Mt. Columbia. (5 hrs. to the upper glacier) . Reach the summit of Dome by a long snow grind from the W. side. (The summit may also be reached from the Colum- bia icefield as in the route for Mt. Columbia). Ascent, 12 hrs. Mt. Douglas. 1 1500'. Appal., x, p. 31. 0., p. 377. C, p. 121. N. margin of the Columbia icefield. E. of the Divide. N. of Dome. S. W. of Wilcox pass. Mt. Eden. 10540'- Appal., x, p. 34. O., p. 433. Chief summit at the head of the S. E. fork of the Chaba river. W. of Mt. Chaba. On the Continental Divide. 1 90 1 Attempted by J. Habel and D. Campbell. Via the col (9245') E. of the summit and between it and Mt. Chaba. From the col, Mt. Chaba was ascended instead. Mt. King Edward VII. {Mt. Manitoba) . 11400'. Appal., X, p. 38-39, "Old Indian Trails" by M. T. Schaffer, p. 84. W. of Mt. Columbia at head of the "West Branch" of the Athabasca river on the Con- tinental Divide. 1920 Attempted by H. Palmer and A. Carpe who reached an elevation of 10800' on the W. face. I20 COLUMBIA GROUP Mt. Quincy. 10400'. Col, p. 148, 159. This is the peak named by Habel "The Blackfriars" beyond the E. end of Fortress lake. Mt. Saskatchewan. 10964'. Appal., x, p. 146. C, p. 108. O., p. 364, 373. E. of the Continental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Athabasca and the E. tongue of the Columbia icefield. (N. Saskatchewan glacier). N. W. angle between the North Fork and the West Branch of the N. Saskatchewan river. Peak Stutfield. 11320'. C, p. 126. O., p. 434. N. E. of The Twins towards the Sun Wapta river. E. of Continental Divide. The Twins. 12085 (N.) and 11675' (S.) C, p. 120. 0-> P- 377- N. of Continental Divide. 5 mi. N. of Mt. Columbia. N. margin of Columbia icefield. Head of " W. Fork" of the Athabasca river. A huge massif supporting two large peaks. The loftier towards the N. is a snow dome* the lower, a pointed rock peak. Peak Wilcox. 9463'. Appal., x, p. 31. C, p. no, 123. Flanks the N. W. end of Wilcox pass. (Saskatchewan to Athabasca river). 1896 W. D. Wilcox. Peak Woolley. 11 170'. C, p. 127. O., p. 434. Between Diadem peak and Peak Stutfield. E. of Continental - Divide, between the Sun Wapta and the " W. Fork" of the Athabasca river. . SECTION XVIII Wood River Group (West of the Continental Divide) The large domain included under this heading lies west of the Columbia group and south of Fortress lake, between Sullivan river and the main channel of Wood river. All the drainage finds its way into the Columbia river. This important section of the range is entirely unexplored. It is known, however, to possess many fine peaks and glaciers so that it con- stitutes the last block of ierra incognita of outstanding interest to the alpinist that remains in the Canadian Rockies. From the vicinity of Mt. Columbia the main axis of elevation of the range extends westerly towards Wood river. South of Fortress, lake lie lofty glacier basins and snowy plateaus that feed long winding valley glac- iers. The peaks hereabouts, although numerous, are not distinctive, being more in the nature of ridges. The really important section of the group lies about midway between the Columbia river and Fortress lake near the ii8th meridian. It contains at least five peaks between iiooo and 12000 feet, as nearly as can 121 122 WOOD RIVER GROUP be estimated. The base level of the valleys must be about 3500 feet so that the general relief is uncom.- monly great. Chisel Peak. 10005'. S. bank of Fortress lake. W. of Chisel creek. 1920 ABC Boundary Survey. Misty Mt. 10050'. Co., p. 153. Alp. Amer., p. 19. S. of Fortress lake, probably at the S. W. corner of the glacial amphitheater. 1892 A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman, L. B. Stewart. From the S. side of Fortress lake by way of the stream forming the lake delta through woods and over scree to camp below the glacier. Cross moraine- covered tongue towards the W, avoiding crevasses by marginal traverses along rocks on the W. side. Follow the edge of the glacier until above the snow-line. Thence via steep snow-slopes and limestone cliffs to the summit. Descend to lake same day. The Pyramid. 11700'. Co., p. 155, 156. W., p. 164. S. E. of Wood river, 10 mi. S. W. of Fortress lake. S. W. of Misty Mt. and separated from it by a deep valley. Coleman believes that this is the peak triangulated by Wilcox at 10500', but this is incorrect. Wilcox triangulated two peaks, one beyond the W. end of the lake at 10500', and the other which is "The Pyramid" at 1 1450'. Fortress lake is 4422' above the sea, Wilcox took it as 4175', so that 250' should be added, making the height 1 1 700'. L DIAGRAM of the COUNTRr BETWEEN THE CANADIAN NATIONAL AND CANADIAN PACIFIC RRS. Scale (rf Miles: , I — luai PART THREE YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION, Fortress Lake To Jarvis Pass (Canadian National Railways) Sections XIX. — The Maligne Lake Country (A thabasca-Brazeau Divide). XX. — Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass (Columbia-Atha- basca Divide). Whirlpool Group. 1. Peaks on the Divide. 2. Peak South of the Divide. 3. Peaks North of the Divide. XXI. — Cplumbia-Fraser Divide West of Athabasca Pass. XXII. — Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass (Athabasca-Fraser Divide, S.). 1. Athabasca Pass. 2. Mounts Brown and Hooker. 3. The Rampart Group (Peaks On and Near the Continental Divide). 4. Peaks East of the Continental Divide. a. Trident Range. XXIII. — Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass, (Athabasca-Fraser Divide, N.). 1. Yellowhead Pass and Peaks of the Divide. 2. Peaks east of the Continental Divide. XXIV.^Moose Pass to Jarvis Pass (Fraser-Peace Divide). 1. Mt. Robson Group (west of Moose Pass). 2. Mt. Whitehorn Group (Robson Pass to Swift Current Pass). 3. Mt. Longstaff Group (Swift Current-Small River Divide). 4. Mt. Bess Group. 5. Mt. Sir Alexander Group. 123 DIAGRAM of the I COUNTRY BETWEEN THE CANADIAN NATIONAL AND CANADIAN PACIFIC BRS, PART THREE Yellowhead Pass Region, Fortress Lake to Jarvis Pass (Canadian National Railways) This immense section of the Canadian Rockies does not lend itself well to the plan of description followed in the preceding pages. The ranges spread out too widely and their, arrangement is more complicated. The Continental Divide does not traverse many of the important peaks so that this hitherto convenient thread of connection between the various groups can- not be resorted to as effectively to give a semblance of unity to the vast complex of mountains. A some- what broader method of treatment must therefore be adopted. The area is designated the "Yellowhead Pass region" because it is most easily accessible from the Canadian National Railways which utilize the pass as a route to the Pacific coast. The village of Jasper, situated at its eastern portal, is the only permanent settlement of consequence and to it the whole district including such widely separated points as Maligne lake, 125 126 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Fortress lake, Mt. Robson, and Mt. Sir Alexander, may be said, in a sense, to be tributary. As Lake Louise is the chief point of departure for expeditions among the southern groups, so Jasper is the outfitting center for the Yellowhead Pass region. Guides, horses, men, provisions, and information regarding trails and traveling conditions may be obtained here. It is also the administrative center for Jasper Na- tional Park which includes much of this territory. Jasper, however, is not a mountaineering center in the sense that lofty snow-clad peaks can be ascended directly from the town so that any extended de- scription of its environs lies without oUr present scope. This subject has been most adequately covered in the copiously illustrated "Description of and Guide to Jasper Park,'' pubHshed by the Department of the Interior in 191 7. Every traveler hereabouts should possess a copy of this book. Good maps are available of some of the chief mountain groups in the Yellowhead Pass region, no- tably the Canadian Alpine Club map (scale i : 120000) of the vicinity of Mount Robson (191 2) by its di- rector A. O. Wheeler, and the Dominion Government Map of Jasper Park by M. P. Bridgland (two scales i: 125000 and i: 625000, 1915), the three obtainable from the Department of the Interior, Topographical Surveys Branch, Ottawa. A good general map of the country between Yellowhead pass and Jarvis pass (i :30000o) was published by the American Geo- YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 127 9 — ■ graphical Society, Bulletin, vol. xlvii, No. 7, 1915. Another map valuable for reference is to be found in the Geographical Journal (London, 191 2), vol. xxxix, p. 312 (scale i: 500000), by Dr. J. N. Collie. This covers the country between ii7°3o'-ii9°3o' and 52° 45-53°30^ Resuming the continuity of our description, the known mountains of the Maligne Lake country situ- ated north and east of the Columbia group come next in order, after which the trend of the Continental Divide northerly from Fortress lake will, as far as practicable, govern the arrangement. SECTION XIX The Maligne Lake Country (Athabasca-Brazeau Divide) The area includes scattered peaks in the large dis- trict east of the Athabasca river and its Sun Wapta tributary and north of the Brazeau river as far as the railway. For the most part, it lies from fifteen to thirty miles east of the " Continental Divide. The section is noteworthy as including some of the most beautiful lakes in the Rockies, one, Maligne, being the largest in the range, eighteen miles long and upwards of a mile and a half wide. The highest peak is probably Brazeau Mt. {ca. 1 1 goo') at the head of the Brazeau icefield, estimated to be thirty-two square miles in area. The northern approach to the group is from Jasper by way of the Athabasca or the Maligne rivers. From the south, the group may be reached by way of the North Fork of the North Saskatchewan and Wilcox pass and from the east by the Brazeau river. Brazeau Mt. ca. iiooo'. Co., p. 219. G. J., xxi, p. 502. N. W. of Brazeau lake at the head of Brazeau icefield. E. of the Sun Wapta river (Poboktan creek). ■ 128 THE MALIGNE LAKE COUNTRY 129 1902 P. Burwash, A. P. Coleman, L. Q. Coleman. Incomplete ascent. From Brazeau lake, follow trail along E. shore for six miles to the N. W. end and then through timber and boulders to a point about four miles below the glacier where camp is made at 7000', Further up the valley a lake is passed and a rocky ascent made to the glacier, with the objective peak four miles to the N. W. One mile over bare ice to the snow and thence via the crest of the rock ridge which nearly cuts the snowfield in two. From the upper end of this ridge, circle the crevasses to the snow-slopes on the S. side of the peak. The S. E. face of the mountain rises in for- bidding cliffs which were considered impassable. The climb was discontinued on the S. snow-slopes at an elevation of 10550' because of the danger of avalanche. Ascent to the highest point of the rock ridge, 4 hrs. Excelsior Mt. 9I00^ C. A. J., iv, p. 72. J. P., p. 64, 83, 87, 89. N. of Centre Mt. (8800') and between it and Maligne river. E. of Mt. Tekarra (8818'). May be climbed in about five hours from a camp reached by way of the Maligne gorge and the Signal Mt. trail. Mt. Francis. 9000'. G. J., xxi, p. 505. N. of Mt. Stewart. N. W. of pass between the N. W. fork of Cataract river and the Brazeau river. 1902 A. P. Coleman, L. G. Coleman. Mt. Kerkeslin. \Mt. Mostyn.) 9790'. A. J., xxvi, p. 386. J. P., p. 20, 40, 90. C. A. J., iv, p. II, 71. E. of Athabasca river and Mt. Edith Cavell. S. of Mt. Hardisty (8900'). Near the falls of the Atha- basca; base accessible by trail from Jasper. Nigel Peak. I0535^ For location see Collie's Map, G. J., xxi, p. 588. E. buttress of Nigel pass. 130 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Samson Peak. (Lonespur). 10091'. C. A. J., iv, p. 77, 94. G. J., xxxix, p. 380. Central and highest peak of the group on E. shore of Maligne lake. None of the peaks in the Maligne lake group have been ascended. Sketch maps will be found in connection with the references given above. On the W. shore of the lake and E. of MaHgne pass, Mt. Unwin and Mt. Charlton are probably the highest summits, rising to nearly 1 1000'. Mt. Sirdar. 9198'. J. P., p. 91 and map. N. of Maligne river, between the W. extremities of Maligne and Jacques lakes. The Watchtower. 9157'. C. A. J., iv, p. 73. J. P., P- 65, 87, 91. N. of Shovel pass. S. W. of Medicine lake. Base could be reached from Medicine lake, 18 mi. by trail from Jasper station. Unnamed. I0I40^ Alp. Amer., p. 19. Co., p. 183. G. J., V, p. 53. Shown on Coleman's map as a peak N. E. of Wilcox pass and S. E. of the Brazeau river tributary from Jonas pass. 1893 A. P. Coleman, L. A. Coleman, A. P. Stewart. . From Brazeau headwaters below Jonas pass via scree and steeply tilted limestone. Ascent, 4 hrs. Unnamed. 9500'. Co., p. 141. "Just above the forks of the Brazeau river." 1892 A. P. Coleman, L. B. Stewart but no data given. SECTION XX Fortress Lake to Athabasca Pass (The Whirlpool Group) The group of peaks traversed by the Continental Divide between Fortress lake (and pass) and the Athabasca pass is as yet unexplored, although the Interprovincial Boundary Survey is engaged in map- ping the watershed of this area. For convenience of description here, it is termed the "Whirlpool group." It occupies the rough triangle enclosed between the Whirlpool and Athabasca rivers on west and east and by Fortress lake and Wood river on the south. Each side is approximately fifteen miles in length. None of the peaks possess official names, though a number bear colloquial or suggested designations. Only two peaks of prominence are known to have been climbed: Fortress Mt. and Mt. Serenity. Scarcely anything has been published relative to the region, two papers only needing reference here: ''The Whirlpool by A. L. Mumm and Geoffrey E. Howard (C, A. J., vol. vi, 1914-15, pp. 74-92 with map and particularly p. 83), and a similar paper by the author 131 132 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION first named (Alpine Journal, London, vol. xxviii, 1914, P- 355)- Certain prominent peaks of the Whirlpool group are alluded to as seen from a distance and are named and numbered in relation to the map but the absence of illustrations renders some of the identi- fications uncertain. The following are the names used: Mts. Scott, Wilson, Gates, Bowers, and Patricia; Mt. Evans and Lectern peak are shown among the mountains to the west. The large glacier draining into the Whirlpool river at the westerly corner of the group was explored and named Scott glacier. At least seven prominent mountains in the Whirl- pool group demand mention here: three being on the Continental Divide,. three north of it, and one to the south. (i) Peaks on the Divide Following the line of the Divide frpm Fortress lake, we come first to Fortress Mt. (9908': see Appal., x, p. 33; Co., p. 148; W., p. 159). This stands at the northeast corner of Fortress lake, west of the Chaba river, and was climbed in 1896 by R. L. Barrett from the lake through heavy forest and up rotten limestone cliffs. From this mountain the water-parting continues northwesterly, bending gradually to the west along a serried line of peaks of no particular consequence. There is a low pass opening into the Whirlpool valley across this section of the Divide at. the head of the well- WHIRLPOOL GROUP 133 defined valley leading northwesterly from the west end of Fortress lake. This is the most northerly source of Wood river. The pass connects with a short eastern tributary of the Whirlpool river that joins the latter not far from the confluence of the so-called "North Fork." Beyond this pass the Divide traverses an upstand- ing square-topped snowless peak about 10600' high, situated on the east margin of the conspicuous glacial basin near the head of the Whirlpool river. This is a good mountain well worthy of attention. Next the Divide sweeps to the southwest for a couple of miles along the boundar}^ wall of the glacier basin just mentioned and then, turning westward crosses a flat snowfield and mounts to a fine snow peak rising from its midst that cannot well be more than three or four miles east of Athabasca pass. This is a striking mountain, close on to iiooo' high and de- serves notice as occupying the spot where the fabulous "Mt. Hooker" is indicated on the early maps. Pro- ceeding westerly from here the Divide sags into a snowy saddle at the head of another glacial basin draining to the Whirlpool and then, crossing a wide- spreading, ridge-shaped mass, drops down along a wall to the famous Athabasca pass. (2) Peak South of the Divide The single mountain of importance south of the Divide in this section is Mt. Serenity, climbed \\4thout 134 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION guides by H. Palmer, A. Carpe, and W. D. Harris in 1920. It is situated within gunshot of the water- parting, midway between "Mt. Hooker" and the square-topped peak just mentioned. The mountain is conspicuous from Fortress lake by reason of the splen- did glacier which mantles it on the S. E. side and was triangulated by W. Wilcox in 1896 (W. pp. 158, 160) from the lake shores. The distance was found to be 17 miles and the altitude obtained 10505', but this should be increased to 10750', the lake lying at an elevation of 4420' instead of 4175', the figure then adopted. The mountain was climbed from a base-camp a mile below the glacier tongue, the medial moraine of the latter indicating the general line of attack. A large and difficult bergschrund was encountered below the pronounced col in the southerly ridge which, when attained, was followed to the summit. The rock buttress on the arete was surmounted by a risky couloir, after which a narrow corniced snow-and-ice arete led to the rocks of the main peak. A height of 10550' was indicated by barometer. The ascent consumed 10 3^ hrs., the descent 43^ hrs. (3) Peaks North of the Divide The most prominent mountain here is situated at the northerly point of the group in the angle between the Athabasca and Whirlpool rivers. It bears no name WHIRLPOOL GROUP 135 but was triangulated by the Bridgland survey of Jasper Park at I0988^ It looks like an uncommonly difficult peak to scale as smooth bands of cliff guard it on two sides and the aretes are broken and jagged. It carries very little snow. The most favorable approach is probably from the west via the Whirlpool river. The next noteworthy peak of the group stands about half-a-dozen miles to the south of the one just mentioned, overlooking the Athabasca. It may be described as an isolated central tower, midway between two gables, the trio rising a thousand feet or so from a common base, which is itself no mean mountain. The easterly gable is visible from Jasper, as is the top of the central tower. The aspect of the latter is most forbidding, soaring up sheerly like a giant tooth. The mountain has been dubbed "The Gal- leon" which seems an appropriate designation. The height must be nearly loooo'. Between "The Galleon" and Fortress Mt. and closely adjacent to the latter, opposite to the bend of the Athabasca, where the Chaba river joins it, stands a high fiat-topped mountain embellished with a sweep- snowfield. It is probably a little over lOOOo' high. A glacier descends into a notch whence waterfalls foam down towards the river. It is a good peak and may be the "Mt. of the Cross" of Coleman (p. 147). SECTION XXI Columbia-Fraser Divide West of Athabasca Pass. This unexplored district comprises the extensive belt of mountains lying north of Wood river and bounded on the other sides by the Fraser, Canoe, and McLennan rivers. Although situated well to the west of the Continental Divide, the district approaches it closely in the vicinity of Athabasca pass, the Fraser and branches of Wood and Canoe rivers all having their sources on a common watershed within a few miles of the pass. The area is roughly twenty miles wide and sixty miles long. Despite its extent, it is doubtful whether it can boast of more than four peaks in the' 10500' class, although there are many sizeable snowfields and gla- ciers scattered amongst its innumerable lesser peaks, notably in the angle between Canoe and Wood rivers. Three of these prominent mountains occur in a line along the lower course of Canoe river between Harvey and Baker creeks, as nearly as can be estimated from a distant view. The two northerly ones are splendid, rock-walled massifs and would well repay investi- 136 COLUMBIA-FRASER AITS. 137 gation. They should be approached from the Canoe river side. The fourth mountain in question is located in the northerly portion of the group, west of INIt. Geikie. It is a mound-shaped, rather feature- less mass of not very great interest, aside from its height. In connection with this district see, ''The Topo- graphy of the Gold Range and Northern Selkirks," by Howard Palmer ; Geographical Journal, vol. Ivii (1921), pp. 21-29, illustrations and map; also a paper by the same author, ''Early Explorations for the Canadian Pacific Railway,'' Bulletin, Geographical Society of Philadelphia, vol. xA'i (1918), pp. 75-91 with map and illustrations. SECTION XXII Athabasca Pass to Yellowhead Pass (Athabasca-Fraser Divide, South) This section embraces the peaks on and near the Continental Divide between Athabasca pass and Yellowhead pass. The air-line distance is about thirty-five miles. (i) Athabasca Pass 5751' The Athabasca pass is the historic gateway between the basins of the Athabasca and Columbia rivers traversed for many years by the fur traders in the traffic between the plains and the Pacific. It was discovered in 181 1 by David Thompson. In the early spring before high-water, a brigade of boats would start from the Pacific and work up the Colum- bia as far as Boat Encampment. At about the same time the "Express" would set forth from Edmonton and by boat and pack-train make its way to the pass from that side. Leaving the horses, the men would descend the steep south slope of the pass and follow • 138 MTS. BROWN AND HOOKER 139 Wood river, with many a ford, to Boat Encampment. Meeting the other party there, they would effect a mutual exchange of freight, letters, and passengers, whereupon the boats would drop down the Columbia again to the Pacific and the others would return up the pass and retrace their route to Edmonton and thence to Hudson's Bay. In places, this old trail, although long ago abandoned and heavily overgrown with bushes, may still be found worn deep into the soil. (2) Mounts Brown and Hooker The pass is also associated with the legendary giants, Mounts Brown and Hooker, which secured a world-wide and lasting fame by reason of the enor- mously exaggerated altitudes attributed to them by the botanist, David Douglas, who climbed Mount Brown on his way across the pass in 1827, later announcing that it was 16000' or 17000' above the level of the sea, the highest mounta;in yet known in North America. Mt. Brown. 9050'. and Mt. Hooker. 86oo'(?). A. J., xxviii, p. 363. C, p. 122, 151. C. A. J., i, #1, p. 43; vi, p. 90; ix, p. 45. Co., p. 206. G. J., V, p. 53. O., p. 429. J. P., p. 22. Shown on the Palliser and other maps as flanking Athabasca pass on the N. W- and S. E. respectively. Narrative of David Douglas, 1827. (Companion to the Botanical Magazine, vol. ii, p. 132, 1836). "Being well rested by one o'clock, I40 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION I set out with the view of ascending what seemed to be the highest peak on the north. Its height does not appear to be less than six- teen thousand or seventeen thousand feet above the level of the sea. After passing over the lower ridge, I came to about 1200' of by far the most difficult and fatiguing walking I have ever experienced, and the utmost care was required to tread safely over the crust of snow. . . . The view from the summit is of too awful a cast to afford pleasure. Nothing can be seen, in every direction as far as the eye can reach, except mountains towering above each other, rugged beyond description. . . . This peak, the highest yet known in the northern continent of America, I feel a sincere pleasure in naming 'Mt. Brown,' in honor of R. Brown, Esq., the illustrious botanist. ... A little to the southward is one nearly the same height, rising into a sharper point; this I named 'Mt. Hooker,' in honor of my early patron, the professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow. This mountain, however, I was not able to climb." Douglas's innocent though careless assertion regard- ing the elevations has been fraught with far-reaching consequences. Space forbids reviewing them here but certain outstanding facts deserve preservation in the mountain lore of the Canadian Rockies. The ascent of Mt. Brown was the earliest alpine climb in west- ern Canada and perhaps in North America. . Every commentator hitherto has ignored the fact that on the day of his climb Douglas had already made a seven-and-a-half hour laborious march (from 4:30 a.m. to 12 :oo m.) through four or five feet of snow from a camp on the steep south slope of the pass five miles below the summit. After only an hour's rest, he set forth alone for his peak and did not return until evening, all of which makes his performance moie creditable. (Ermatinger's Journal, Trans. Royal Soc. Canada, 1912, Sec. II., p. 80.) As his starting point was a camp about a mile beyond the MTS. BROWN AND HOOKER 141 height of land towards the north and the day was half spent, undoubtedly Douglas headed for and climbed the peak nearest to him which may not have been the peak nearest to the pass. He does not state that Mt. Hooker was on the opposite side of the pass although it is so shown on the map accompanying Hooker's Flora Boreali — Americana the publication of which Douglas superintended. On this map the heights given are 16000' and 15700'. An English traveler, Mr. A. L. Mumm, who visited the pass in 19 13 and climbed the mountain nearest to it on the north suggests that it was too difficult for a man of limited alpine experience to ascend alone and that Douglas probably climbed an adjacent peak more remote from the pass. The facts above mentioned would support this hypothesis. The question can only be settled, however, by a careful examination on the spot and the aScent of both peaks to determine which is the loftier and which the more difficult. Douglas's exaggerated estimate of the height was due to an assumption of iiooo' for the elevation of Athabasca pass, which figure had almost certainly been communicated to him by Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company whom he met some weeks after his ascent. This figure was also adopted and published by David Thompson and Ross Cox. Yet, as a capable botanist, how was it possible for Douglas to accept as he did accept the necessary corollary of this atltitude, namely, that timberline in the Rocky Mountains occurred at 13750' above sea- level as his own figures showed? (C. A. J., vol. ix, pp. 45-53-) The reputed existence of such gigantic peaks led several expedi- tions to search for them so that the beginning of exploration amongst the higher Canadian Rockies is directly attributable to this error. Not until the inception of governmental surveys and the construction of new railways was an equally strong impetus given to the exploration of the country. The following is a brief resume of early expeditions to the Northern Canadian Rockies undertaken purely for purposes of mountain exploration: 142 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION m RESUME OF EARLY EXPEDITIONS 1. Expeditions of A. P. Coleman. Three expeditions were undertaken. The first in 1888 by way of the Columbia was unsuccessful. On the second expedition in 1892 by way of the Saskatchewan and Poboktan pass, Fortress lake was discovered and several high peaks nearby ascended. It was not, however, until the expedition of 1893 that Athabasca pass was reached. In 1893, the highest mountain on the N. W. side of Athabasca pass was ascended by L. Q. Coleman and L. B. Stewart: "Easy ascent over good slopes, including a mile of snowfield, but ending near the top with stiff er work, needing both hands and feet, while the very top was capped with a heavy snow cornice which they did not think it wise to attempt. . . . That the right mountain was climbed is certain, since there is no other even as high within ten miles on the N. W. side of the pass." Aneroid and boiling point determinations of the height of the pass, gave a figure of 5710' and a height for Mt. Brown of 9050'. "The question of Mt. Hooker is less certain. A ridge-like mountain . . . rises to 8600' S. E. of the pass at the point where Hooker is indicated on Palli- ser's map, (this was climbed by Coleman and Stewart), but a much finer peak rises a few miles E. of the Punch Bowl, with fields of snow and a large glacier and was estimated at about iiooo'." 2. Expedition of W. D. Wilcox. In 1896 Wilcox set out from Laggan on the Canadian Pacific, proceeding northward via Bow pass, the Mistaya river and North Fork of the North Saskatche- wan. A high pass near its headquarters took them into the Sun Wapta branch of the Athabasca. This was the first party on record to cross the pass and as "Wilcox pass" it has been known ever since. Fortress lake was visited and a number of high peaks in the vicinity were triangulated and climbed but Athabasca pass itself was not reached. 3. Expedition of J. N. Collie. In 1897 from mountains near the Freshfield glacier. Collie sighted a very high peak to the N. which he thought could be none other than one of the giants Hooker or Brown as, on the map of that time, only these were shown N. of Mt. Lyell. Accordingly in 1898 he organized a party to investigate them, setting forth from Laggan and following Wilcox's route of two years before. From the neighborhood of Wilcox pass a number of climbs were made near the Continental Divide. These supplied the first knowledge of the topography of the Columbia group, one of the most important in the range. Mts. Columbia, Bryce, Dome, Twins, Alberta, Diadem, and RAMPART GROUP 143 Woolley were named at that time, to mention only the chief. A map was pubhshed later by Collie which, with subsequent extensions, has been the standard ever since. Only the work of the Interprovincial Boundary Survey, now in process of issuance, will supersede it in so far as they overlap. The Collie party were the first to visit the Columbia snowfield and to see the source of the main Athabasca river. They ascended the Dome, Diadem, and Athabasca peaks. 4. Expedition of Jean Habel, 1901. This party also came from Laggan via Wilcox pass, the special objective being the country south of Fortress lake. The latter was visited and the sources of the Chaba and Athabasca were explored for the first time, several ascents being carried out. 5. Expedition of James Outram, 1901. Although having no relation to Mts. Brown and Hooker, this expedition is included on account of its important mountaineering results. Mts. Columbia, Bryce, and Forbes were ascended, the latter in con- junction with Dr. Coirie who was again in the field with an explor- ing party. The West branch of the North Fork of the North Saskatchewan was explored. (3) The Rampart Group (P^eaks on and near the Continental Divide) Between Athabasca pass and Yellowhead pass the principal group is ' ' The Rampart group . ' ' Commenc- ing about ten miles north of Athabasca pass, it extends a like distance along the Continental Divide midway between the Athabasca and Fraser rivers. The section of the Divide between it and Athabasca pass is not yet explored but no peaks of special prominence occur on or near it until the immediate vicinity of the Rampart group is reached. Here, however, four or five good rock peaks are to be found upwards of 9500' high. The Rampart group lies immediately 144 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION north of the headwaters of the so-called "North Whirl- pool" which in fact is the west branch of that river. It centers about a nameless snowy horn nearly or quite 1 1 goo' high on the Divide. Like spokes of a wheel, four major ridges radiate irregularly from this hub peak: (i.) Towards the southwest over which the Divide approaches the group and which supports the rock peaks just mentioned; (2.) towards the south- east through Mt. Erebus and Mt. Edith Cavell; (3.) towards the northeast, bending north and then north- west to Mt. Geikie, carrying the Divide and des- ignated on the map of Jasper Park as The Ramparts; (4.)towards the west and north, carrying Postern and Casemate mountains. The principal peaks of all these ranges excepting (2) are for convenience of description included under the "Rampart Group." Range (2), a lateral off- shoot connecting Mt. Edith Cavell with the Divide, is described under "(4) Peaks east of the Con- tinental Divide," as it is separated from the Ram- part group by the glacial pass occupied by "Eraser" glacier. Between these radiating ranges occur sizeable glaciers, six forming the source of the west branch of the Whirlpool, and one between (3) and (4), about five miles long, draining into the Eraser river along the south side of Mt. Geikie. On the northwesterly side of the high snow peak as well, two other fine gla- ciers are to be found, draining the same way. They RAMPART GROUP 145 must each be several miles long, and after following circuitous courses their tongues meet on the shore of a small lake at the base of Casemate peak sur- rounded by frowning precipices. The culminating summit of the Rampart group ap- pears to be the high snow peak just mentioned which probably reaches iiooo'. Next in order come Mt. Geikie ( 10854') ^nd the two "Fraser" peaks ( 10775') and (1072 60- All of these except Mt. Geikie are on the Divide. The group is so named on account of the singular mural formation which the Continental Divide assumes for some seven miles between Mt. Fraser and Mt. Geikie. For almost all this distance a precipitous escarpment rises above open meadows, crowned with jagged, turreted pinnacles some of which are prettily reflected in the Amethyst lakes. Many of the peaks exceed loooo' in height. Between the Athabasca and Yellowhead passes only one well-defined pass on the Continental Divide is at present known: Tonquin pass (6300'), near Mt. Geikie. The Rampart group and Tonquin valley may be reached by pack train in two long days from Jasper over a. fair trail. The route is via Whistlers creek, Marmot pass (7800'), and Portal creek. Barbican Peak. loioo^ C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 53, 88. W. of Continental Divide. Adjoins Mt. Geikie on W. 146 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Bastion Peak. 9700'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 52, 88. Continental Divide. S. buttress of Tonquin pass. Between Redoubt and Turret peaks. Casemate Mt. ca. IOooo^ J. P., p. 48. W. of Continental Divide. S. E. of Postern Mt. N. W. of Mt. Fraser. t Dungeon Peak. 10200'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 47, 51, 89. Continental Divide. Adjacent to Mt. Fraser on N. and S. of Redoubt peak. Mt. Fitzwilliam. (Pelee). 9549'. C. A. J., iv, p. 12. J. P., p. 59, 90. W. of Continental Divide. S. of Yellowhead pass. S. E. of Lucerne station. Mt. Fraser. 10776' (W.) and 10726' (E.). C. A. J., X, p. 74. J. P., p. 47, 50, 90. Two connected peaks on the Continental Divide. Head of Fraser glacier, a source of Astoria river. S. of Dungeon peak. 1919 H. Palmer, R. H. Chapman, and A. Carpe. The higher westerly peak was ascended by this party from a camp at the S. end of the Amethyst lakes. Descend through the woods to the stream from Fraser glacier (i}i hrs.) and ascend lat- ter along the true right side. Cross easy ice below the icefall, mounting a steep snow-slope and along the lowest rocks of the E. peak (3>^ hrs.) to the upper ice plateau. Traverse this and ascend glacier towards the rounded crest of rock that occurs on the S. arete of the W. peak. Concealed moulins and crevasses should be guarded against here. After reaching the main S, arete (4^ hrs.), ascend same to summit (much loose shale and scree) i>^ hrs. Total elapsed time 6^ hrs. Descent via the RAMPART GROUP 147 same route {^)4 hrs). Total time (i i X hrs.). A snow-ice arete, probably passable, connects the W. "Fraser" peak with the lofty snow-cap beyond that dominates the Rampart group. Probably the E. "Fraser" peak may also be climbed by a slight variant of the route described above. Mt. Geikie. 10854'. C. A. J., iv, p. 11, 72; x, p. 75. J. P., p. 51, 84, 86, 90. A. J., xxxiii, p. 147. W. of Continental Divide five miles from the Fraser river, between Turret and Barbican peaks. Base .may be approached via Meadow creek (no trail) and Tonquin pass. The route is about 25 miles from Jasper station. This mountain has the appearance at close quarters of being exceedingly difficult. It is one of the grandest rock peaks in the entire chain. Postern Mt. ca. 9500'. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Bastion peak. Redoubt Peak. 10200'. C. A. J.,x, p. 75. J. P., p. 47, 52, 91. Continental Divide. . Adjoins Dun- geon peak on N. vS. E. of Bastion peak. W. of Tonquin valley and Amethyst lakes. Turret Peak. loioo'. C. A. J., x, p. 75. J. P., p. 59, 91. W. of Continental Divide. Adjoins Bastion peak on the W. Between the latter peak and Mt. Geikie. Vista Peak. 9155'. J. P., p. 50, 59, 91. Conti-^ nental Divide. N. W. of Tonquin pass. 148 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Unnamed, ca. loooo'. On Continental Divide between Dungeon peak and Mt. Fraser; summit of arete rising from Surprise point. 1919 H. Palmer and A. Carpe. From a camp near the outlet of Amethyst lakes ascend the slopes around the northerly base of Surprise point and a narrow glacier- filled gulch leading to the arete immediately W. of Surprise point (i>2 hrs.). Follow the jagged arete W. to base of peak (i hr.) and ascend E. arete (1400') to summit (3X hrs. up; 2 hrs. down). Good climbing over moderately difficult rocks and a short snow arete. Descend the same way or over steep grassy slopes to the glacier in the valley to the S. Total time: 14.5 hrs.; 4.5 hrs. in darkness. (4) Peaks East of the Continental Divide This sub-section embraces the peaks of the range extending easterly from the Continental Divide through Mt. Erebus and terminating in Mt. Edith Cavell, together with certain miscellaneous groups that occur between the Continental Divide and the valleys of the Miette and Athabasca rivers, south of the railway. One of these, the Trident range, is listed separately, as it is a compact knot of peaks that stand close to- gether, apart from the other mountains. It is situated at the source of Portal creek. All of this district is covered by the map of Jasper Park. Mt. Edith Cavell (11033O is the loftiest summit of this region and may prove to be supreme between Fortress lake and Yellowhead pass. PEAKS EAST OF THE DIVIDE 149 Alcove Mt. 9200'. J. p., p. 47, 88. S. E. of Ere- mite peak at Astoria river sources. Angle Peak. 9500'. J. P., p. 47, 88. S. E. of Al- cove Mt., at sources of Astoria river. Mt. Aquila. 9269'. J. P., p. 86, 88. ' S. of Lectern peak, between Portal creek and Astoria river. 1915 Bridgland Survey. Can be reached from The Portal, 14 mi. S. of Jasper. Mt. Basilica. 9400'. J. P., p. 59, 88. E. of Con- tinental Divide. S. W. of Roche Noir. Forum group between Meadow and Clairvaux valleys. Blackhorn Peak. 9800'. C. A. J., x, p. 74. J. P., p. 46, 88. E. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Throne Mt. N. of Campus pass. Mt. Edith Cavell. 1 1033'. (LeDtic, FUzhugh, Geikie). A. J., xxviii, p. 367-8. C. A. J., iv, p. 63; vi, p. 92; viii, p. 136; X, p. 74. J. P., p. 42, 84, 86, 89. E. of Conti- nental Divide. S. angle between Astoria and Whirl- pool rivers. N. E. of Verdant pass. 1915 E. W. D. Holway, A. J. Gilmour. From Jasper station, by way of the Athabasca and Astoria rivers to Verdant pass, leading to the Whirlpool river, (two days). Prom camp on S. side of the pass, ascend cliffs of the peak adjoin- ing Mt. Edith Cavell on W., and, from the depression between the two, follow the narrow arete to the corniced summit of the latter. Ascent: carrip to top of cliffs, 2,5 hrs.; to summit, 6.5 hrs. I50 - YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Chak Peak. 91 14'. J. P., p. 49, 86, 89. Between Mt. Aquila and (N. of) Astoria river. E. of Astoria pass. 19 1 5 Bridgland Survey. Reached from head of Portal creek, about 16 mi. by trail from Jasper. Mt. Chevron. 9300'. C. A.J., x, p. 74. J. P., p. 89. S. E. of Blackhorn peak. S. of Buttress and Beryl lakes. (Verdant creek). Mt. Clitheroe. 9014'. J. P., p. 50, 86, 89. E. of Tonquin valley and Amethyst lakes. N. W. of Mt. Maccarib. (8707'). 19 1 5 Bridgland Survey. May be reached via the W. shoulder, 2 mi. W. of Maccarib pass (Portal creek to Meadow creek). About 20 mi. by trail from Jasper station. Mt. Curia. 9300'. J. P., p. 51, 89. S. of Mt. Basilica. Forum group, between Meadow and Clair- vaux valleys. Erebus Mt. 10234'. C. A. J., x, p. 74. J. P., p. 47, 49, 53, 82. Highest peak of the Eremite cirque, at Astoria river sources. N. W. of Eremite Mt. Eremite Mt. 95oo^ J. P., p. 47, 89. On or just E. of Continental Divide. Head of Eremite glacier. S. E. of Mt. Erebus. N. W. of Alcove Mt. Franchere Peak. 9225'. J. P., p. 86, 90. W. bank of Astoria river. N. W. of Mt. Edith Cavell. E. of Chak peak. S. of Mt. Aquila. TRIDENT RANGE 151 Lectern Peak. 9095'. C. A. J., vi, p. 78, 92; x, p. 73. J. P., p. 39, 46, 48, 86, 90. S. angle between Portal creek and Astoria river. 1 9 13 G. E. Howard, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen. Partial ascent. May be reached from camp at junction of Portal and Circus valleys, 14 mi. by trail from Jasper station. Roche Noir. 9594'. J. P., p. 51, 86, 90. N. E. of Mt. Basilica, between Meadow and Clairvaux valleys. Base may be reached by way of Miette and Meadow valley trails; about 13 mi. from Jasper. Oldhorn Mt. 9779'. J. P., p. 46, 49> 5i» 86, 91. S. E. of Mt. Maccarib (8707'): between this peak and Astoria river. Base may be reached from the head of Portal ci-eek, 16 mi. by trail from Jasper or from Amethyst lakes in Tonquin valley. Outpost Peak. 9100'. J. P., p. 47, 91. E. of Con- tinental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Eraser. ^ Throne Mt. 10144'. J. P., p. 42, 91. S. W. angle between Verdant creek and Astoria river. N. E. of Blackhorn peak. N. of Buttress and Beryl lakes. (a) The Trident Range. Mt. Estella. 10069'. J- P-» P- 45» 89. Head of Circus valley, adjoining Mt. Majestic on N. E. S. W, of Manx Mt. 152 YELLOWHEAD BASS REGION Mt. Fortalice. 9300'. J. P., p. 90. N. W. of Manx Mt. E. of Crescent creek. Mt. Majestic. 10125'. C. A. J., x, p. 73. J. P., p. 45, 49, 50, 86. The highest peak of the Trident group, at the head of Circus valley; N. W. of junction of Circus and Portal creeks. Base may be reached from Jasper by way of Whistlers creek, Marmot pass, and the head of Portal valley. Manx Mt. 9987'. C. A. J., x, p. 73. J. P., p. 84, 86, 90. N. E. of Mt. Estella. S. of Whistlers pass. May be reached from camp at head of Whistlers valley, 10 mi. by trail from Jasper. 1920 R. T. Chamberlin and another. Mt. Terminal. 9300^ J. P., p. 91. W. buttress of Marmot pass, (Whistlers creek to Portal creek). E. of Manx Mt. " . Vertex Peak. 9700'. J. P., p. 45, 91. Head of Circus valley. Adjoins Mt. Majestic on S. E. Base may be reached from the Junction of Portal and Circus valleys, 16 mi. from Jasper station, Reproduced from "A Guide to Jasper Park" by courtesy o/ the Dept. of the Interior SECTION XXIII Yellowhead Pass to Moose Pass (Athabasca-Fraser Divide, North) (i) Yellowhead Pass and Peaks on the Divide Yellowhead pass (3727') is the lowest depression cr ssing the Continental Divide between the United States Boundary and Peace River pass. It was discovered about 1826 and its easy gradients made it extremely useful in the transport of heavy loads of dressed leather to the territory west of the mountains. In local history it is almost as famous as the Athabasca pass. The completion of two transcontinental railroads through the pass in 1 914-15 threw open an enormous area of alpine country and facilitated the conquest of Mt. Robson (13068') the monarch of the whole Canadian Rocky chain. Between Yellowhead pass and Moose pass the dis- tance is about twenty-eight miles in a direct line. The Continental Divide pursues a tortuous course along the somewhat featureless ridges of an upland parklike country. Mt. Upright (9700') is the prin- 153 154 YELLOWHEAb PASS REGION cipal peak on the Divide, which is crossed by no less than seven passes. As a whole, the country of the Divide does not call for special mention, although were it removed from the vicinity of grander peaks, its craggy crests and glaciers might repay the climber's attention. The Colonel. 9166'. A. J., xxvi, p. 393. C. A. J., iv, p. 25, 2^. Almost on the Continental Divide, in angle between Colonel creek and E. branch of Moose river. 191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. "No difficulty in reaching the summit." Mt. Upright. 9700'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 28. Continental Divide. 7 mi. S. E. of Moose pass near head of E. branch of Moose river. (2) Peaks East of the Continental Divide The mountains included hereunder are scattered throughout a large area, perhaps forty miles square, in the upper basins of the Snake Indian (Stony) river and the Snaring river, both tributaries of the Athabasca. The district lies to the north and west of Jasper and has scarcely been explored. None of the peaks are of great elevation but there are several groups which dis- play alpine characteristics and no doubt- when investi- gated in detail, will be found to possess some good rock climbs. (A. J., xxvi, p. no. Appal., xiii, p. 241. G. J., xxxix, map at p. 313). YELLOWHEAD PASS TO MOOSE PASS 155 Calumet Peak. 976o^ A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 21. E. of Continental Divide. 3 mi. N. of head of Calumet creek, a tributary of the Smoky river. Cliff Mt. 9000'. J. P., p. 89 Head of Cobblestone creek, N. E. of Snaring river. S. E. of Mt. Whitecap. Mt. Consort. 9460'. C. A. J.,x, p. 89. J. P., p. 89. N. E. of Mt. Monarch. W. angle between N. and S. forks of Snaring river. Diadem Peak. 9615'. C. A. J.,x, p. 76. J. P., p. 89. W. angle between N. and S. forks of the Snar- ing river. • Separated from Mt. Consort by Unnamed peak, 9395'. Hoodoo Peak. 9000'. A. J., xxvi, p. 14. Appal., xii, p. 343. C. A. J., iv, p. 137. G. J., xxxix, p. 228. E. of Continental Divide. Head of Middle Fork of the Stony river. W. of Stony-Smoky pass. 191 1 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderbinen. Ascended via the W. face. A rock climb. The last 4-500' difficult. Monarch Mt. 95oo^ C. A. J.,x, p. 76. J. P., p. 57, 90. Head of S. fork of Snaring river, head of Derr creek. Mt. Pamm. ca. loooo'. C. A. J., vi, p. 189. Sierra Club Bulletin (1918), vol. x, 272. E. of 156 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Continental Divide. N. W. of Moose pass. Ad- joins Calumet peak on N. W. 1913 D. Phillips, L. Jeffers, and others. A snow peak of Uttle difficulty or danger except for crevasses. An easy climb from Moose pass. Pyramid Mt. 9076'. C. A. J., iv, p. 9. J. P., p. 56, 57, 83, 91. A. J., xxvi, p. 385. 6 mi. N. W. of Jasper station. 191 1 G. B. Kinney, K. Kain. May be reached in one day from Jasper, by the wagon road to Pyramid lake. There is no trail beyond the lake and a way must be forced through burnt timber. Above timberline the climb is over scree and broken rock. Unnamed. 9395'. J. P., Sheet #3. Between Dia- dem peak and Mt. Consort. Mt. Whitecap. 9400'. J. P., 72, 91. Between S. branch of the Snake Indian 'river and Snaring river. N. W. of Cliff Mt. Twin Trfe \ , LaKe Mt.ROBSON GROUP AND ADJACENT GROUPS North of Yellovi/headi Pass /ifi^roafi/cei)/ Jf>y coi/r^esy of fAe A/7>tfn<^air Sfoarctiofy/ca/ Soe/irfy BroiTc/>t/ay erf /SStrs^. A/eiv yarACtty. ^^ hrs. Route 2. As in Route i, to the base of the Extinguisher. Con- tinue a half mile further and then bear sharply E., following rocks to the arete joining Lynx Mt, with Mt. Resplendent (5 brs.). The rocks are often iced and several difficult pinnacles should be traversed to W. Turn S., cross the intervening saddle and follow ice-and-snow arete (2 hrs.) to the final 1000' snow dome (i hr.). Ascent by Route 2, 8 hrs. Mt. Robson.' {Yuh-hai-has-kim) . I3o68^ A. J., xxvi, p. 382; xxviii, p. 35; xxxii, p. 393. Appal., xii, p. 112. C. A.J.,ii, #i,p. i; #2,p. 2,2i;iv, p. 2;x, p. 22. G. J., xxxvi, p. 57. Co., p. 322, 334, 349, 355. W. of Continental Divide. 8 mi. N. of Robson station. Head of Grand Fork of the Fraser river. S. of Berg lake and Robson pass. 19 13 A. H. MacCarthy, W. W. Foster, K. Kain. Route I. Via the S. E. arete. From' camp on the margin of the ^ The first reference in literature to Mt. Robson appears to be the following which is quoted from The Northwest Passage by Land by Milton and Cheadle, published in 1865: "On every side the snowy heads of mighty hills crowded round, whilst, immediately behind us, a giant among giants, and immeasurably supreme, rose Robson's peak. This magnificent mountain is of conical form, glacier-clothed, and rugged. When we first caught sight of it, a shroud of mist partially enveloped the summit, but this presently rolled away, and we saw its upper portion dimmed by a necklace of light feathery clouds, beyond which its pointed apex of ice, glittering in the morning sun, shot up far into the blue heaven above, to a height of probably loooo or 15000 feet. It was a glorious sight, and one which the Shush waps of The Cache assured us had rarely been seen by human eyes, the summit being generally hidden by clouds." THE ROB SON GROUP i6i Robson glacier, at the base of tlie Extinguisher, proceed W. and ascend the broken E. wall (ice and snow) to the summit of the "Dome" (10098'). Descend slightly to the bergschrund at the foot of the main E. wall of Mt. Robson. Cross the schrund and ascend the steep slope of rock and ice (60-65°; step-cutting) to the S. E. shoulder at 10500' (8>4 hrs.). Follow the arete towards the W. by means of steps cut just below the crest on the S. W. side. Ascend the ^ main peak via very steep terraces of snow and ice on the S.E. face. This portion of the climb requires the cutting of about 600 steps. Descend via the ice slopes to the shoulder of the S. E. arete and then, instead of going down the E. wall as in the route of ascent, follow the E. margin of the glacier to the S. and gain the rocks tc^ the E. of it by a precarious pas- sage through a steep crevasse and bergschrund (dangerous). A bivouac hereabouts {ca. 9000') may be necessary. Next ensues a descent of 800' (3 hrs., difficult) over a very rotten step-and- wall formation, then a traverse on a narrow ledge beneath a 500' cli.f of hanging glacier, followed by another traverse on the S. ridge, whence long shale slopes lead down to Lake Kinney. As- cent 13 hrs.; descent to Lake Kinney, about 9 hrs. The second printed reference to ]Mt. Robson is probably the following extracted from a report by A. R. C. Selwyn, Director of the Geological Survey of Canada, in the Report of Progress for 1871-1872 at page 44. Under date of October 22,, 1871, he states that Mr. Baltzly was not able to get a photograph of "the magni- ficent mountain, Robson's peak (Milton 8c Cheadle, p. 252) which stands in the angle made by the Eraser Grand Forks, and rises with mural precipices to a height of two or three thousand feet {sic.) above the river. Yesterday it was cloudless, and presented a truly splendid picture, while today it has been wreathed in mist and capped with clouds. Our Indian told us that their name for this mountain signified "The lines in the rocks." The whole face of the mountain and its various spurs and buttress-like projections in their upper portions, are marked out in horizontal lines, due to the unequal weathering and to the varying color and texture of the strata, which apparently consist of alternating calcareous and siliceous bands." i62 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION 1909 G. B. Kinney, D. Phillips. Route 2. Attempt via the W. arete. Camp at W. end of Berg lake. Go up cliffs and narrow ledges of the N. shoulder to a big shale slope on the N. W. side of the mountain. Thence ascend over cliffs and shale to the top of the W. shoulder, 10500' and camp. From this point, work S. (E.?) over snow and steep rock, several ridges of the W. face being crossed to the first of two cliffs which form horizontal ramparts all around the peak. This is ascended without difficulty and steep snow slopes above are crossed to the second rampart which also must be surmounted. Above this, very steep snow-slopes (60°) and broken rock are climbed to a point near the summit, which is heavily corniced "on the N. side. On this occasion the final portion of the snow-and-ice dome was not ascended. (The party of 19 13 was the first to reach the summit of the mountain.) Ascent 135^ hrs. 1913 B. S. Darling, H. H. Prouty, W. Schauffelberger. Route J. Attempt via the W. arete. From a camp one-half mile above Emperor falls, ford the river, ascend the sloping terrace of scree to the great talus pile 2 mi. wide and 2000' high and cross same (2 hrs.) to a camp at 8500' near the avalanche fan. The following day traverse the avalanche fan and across a yellow band of rock to the crest of the W. arete at 8400'. The first 500' of the ridge is rotten yellow rock, but the remainder is firmer gray and black rock. Ascend over the staircase formation of the ridge for 12 hrs, to the ice cap at 12000'. Here step-cutting commences; at 12500' the ridge narrows and is hemmed in by terrific cornices on both sides so that alternate faces of the arete (50-60°) have to be utilized. To a point 400' below. the summit (6.15 f.m.) 14 hrs. were consumed. Descending, a bivouac was made at iiooo'. Next day the ridge was descended for 500' and a traverse made across its S. face to the great couloir of the S. W. face at 10200.' This was descended to about 9000' where the yellow rock was retraversed N. to the bivouac at 8500' (8>^ hrs.), the expedition consuming three whole days. This route is probably the most THE ROB SON GROUP 163 sporting way to the top and is one of the finest rock cHmbs in Canada. 1913 A. H. MacCarthy, K.Kmn and B. S. Darling, W. Schauffel- herger. Route 4. Attempt via the S. W. arete. Two ropes. One mile below foot of Berg lake at 5500' ascend a steep clay slope and a rock-step couloir to the first broad ledge below the gray slate bluffs at 6600' (i hr.). Proceeding along the ledge fcr 200 yards, a second couloir of scree and rock steps 1000' high gives access to the second broad ledge below the yellow band of rock at 7600' (i hr. more). Following this ledge S. W. for 'jA mi. climb a Y- shaped couloir (400') in the course of a waterfall to the third ledge at 8000' (45 min.). Advancing then along the base of the great talus slope for i hr., a small glacier surrounded by high mo- raines is reached and in >^ hr. more, the bottom of the "Wish- bone" (W.) arete. Traversing around this {% hr.), a camp is made on the arete just before reaching the great couloir of the S. W. face. Next day the couloir is traversed on the yellow bands and the glacier reached at 8600' (2 hrs.). Ascending the rocks beside the glacier, 1700' were climbed the first hour. At 10500' the glacier overtopped the ar^te so that a traverse had to be made beneath ice cliffs. Above the cliffs the final dome of the mountain is attained at 12500' where the route joins that from the ,S. E. (5>^ hrs. from foot of arete). Descent to same place, 5>^ hrs.; thence direct to Lake Kinney, 2}i hrs. Total descent, 9000' in %}i hrs. This route will probably be the stock route for the ascent of Mt. Robson as it is perfectly straightforward going throughout. Titkana Peak. {Snowbird, Ptarmigan.) 9320'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 37. Co., p. 319. Continental Divide. S. E. buttress of Robson pass. N. of Titkana pass: (Robson glacier to Reef neve). 1908 L. Q. Coleman. 1 64 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION (2) The Whitehorn Group The Whitehorn group faces Mt. Robson and its satellites across the valley towards the west and north, extending for some ten miles in an irregular curve from Robson pass to and beyond Mt. Whitehorn (iiioi'), the dominating peak. The Divide follows the range from Robson pass to Mt. Resolution and then descends the west face of the latter to Swift Current pass and glacier which bound the group on that side. Between Mt. Mumm and Mt. Resolution occur three or four peaks (9000-10000'), without accepted names or altitudes, which have probab- ly all been ascended, though published data are lacking. Two mountaineer passes cross the crest-line of the group, one about a mile west of Mt. Mumm leading to the Mural glacier, the other between Mt. White- horn and Mt. Resolution, giving access (difficult) to the upper Swift Current glacier. - Access to the group is best had from the Grand Forks valley. Mt. Gendarme. gSoy'. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, pp. 34, 154. E. of Continental Divide. N. W. of Mumm peak. Head of Mural glacier. 191 1 A. O. Wheeler, K. Kain. Route I. From Berg lake, via the col on the Divide W. of Mumm peak, leading to the Mural glacier. Roue 2. From the Smoky river, via the Mural glacier. THE WHITEHORN GROUP 165 Mumm Peak. 9740'. A. J., xxv, p. 467; xxvi, p. 10. Appal., xii, p. 341. C. A. J., iii, p. 173; vii, p. 63. G. J., xxxix, p. 226. Continental Divide. N. buttress of Robson pass. This seems to be the peak alluded to in the references as 10700' high. 19 10 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen. From Robson pass, via scree slopes of S. E. face. Snow-slopes and a short chimney just below the summit. Ascent from Rob- son pass, 4 hrs. Mt. Resolution. {Borland.) 10650'. A. J., xxv, p. 467; xxvi, p. 10. Appal., xii, p. 341 ; XV, p. 9. C. A. J., iii, p. 173. G. J., xxxix, p. 226. On Continental Divide, N. end Whitehorn range. 1910 J. N. Collie, A. L. Mumm, M. Inderhinen, S. Stephens, G. Swain, J. Yates. ' Route I. From a camp near timberline N. W. of Berg lake, over the E. glaciers of the peak. 1916 E. W. D. Holway, H. Palmer and A. J. Gilmour. Route 2. From the west. Starting from a camp W. of the tongue of Swift Current glacier at the head of Swift Current creek, the main glacier was followed to a small glacier issuing from a pocket of the S. W. slope. A crevassed icefall of this glacier was as- cended, then a steep snow curtain which led to the snowy domed summit (8 hrs.); altitude by barometer, 10650'; descent, 3 hrs. Saurian Peak. 9450'. C. A. J., vi, pp. 238, 254. Adjoins Mumm peak on S. W. 19 13 W. E. Stone, W. Schauffelberger, and two others. From the valley N. of the main ridge, via rock and snow of the N. arete. The last 100' below the sum.mit are ascended by means of short rock faces and chimneys. The descent into the valley on 1 66 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION the south side of the ridge is through two chimneys. Then ensues talus under high diffs. Mt. Whitehorn. iiioi'. A. J.,xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J.,iv, p. 47;vi, pp. 49, 52, 55. S. of Continental Divide. S. E. of Mt. Longstaff. W. of Valley of a Thousand Falls. 191 1 K. Kain. Route I. From Rob son pass, camp at head of Valley of a Thou- sand Falls. Ascend steeply through underbrush and over boulders to the glacier which is crossed over the icefall in a W. direction to the foot of the E. wall. Ascend via the upper, crevassed glacier to the col (Whitehorn pass), cross -same and descend to the W. glacier which is traversed to the W. arete. Cross the crest of the arete and ascend by way of the rocks on its S. side to within 200' of the summit, where a steep wall necessitates a short traverse on snow and ice. Then up a difficult 10' chimney to the top. Ascent, 12 hrs. Route 2. In 1 9 13, on the occasion of the 3rd ascent of the peak, a large party under the guidance of K. Kain traversed the peak, descending by the S. E. glacier and • traversing N. E. along the Valley of a Thousand Falls to the route of ascent as above. (C. A. J., vol. vi, p. 55.) Unnamed, ca. loooo'. A. J., xxviii, p. 356. C. A. J., vi, p. 238. Northernmost point of Continental Divide between Mt. Gendarme and Mt. Resolution. 1913 A. L. Mumm, F. C. Godsal, Miss P. Pearce, M. InderUnen. Over rocks and crevassed glacier from Robson pass. (3) The Longstaff Group The Longstaff group stands opposite the Whitehorn group on the W. across the b^siij of §wift Ciirrejjt THE LONGSTAFF GROUP 167 glacier. It comprises a line of heavily glacier-cov- ered peaks about 10 miles long, of which Mt. Long- staff (10500O is the chief. The basin of Small river bounds the group on the W. N. W. of Mt. Longstaff stand two nameless virgin peaks upwards of 9700' high, while on the southerly side along the crest-line of th€ range are four others, in altitude about 9400', 9800', 9300', 9330', named from N. to S. The first two were ascended by Messrs. Holway and Gilmour in 1 91 5 from a camp on Small river. The third (9300') was climbed in 191 6 from the Swift Current glacier by the same party with the addition of H. Palmer. (Appal,, vol. XV, p. II.) The group is noteworthy as containing what is probably the largest continuous glacial area between the Columbia icefield and Mt. Chown, 20 square miles in extent. The snowy areas of the Longstaff group and the adjoining Whitehorn group taken together must aggregate upwards of 30 square miles. From Mt. Resolution the Continental Divide crosses the icefield in a N. W. direction to the N. end of the Longstaff range, where it bends back upon ilself for a space and then swings N. to the Mt. Bess group. The main Swift Current glacier, S. of the Divide, has an extreme length of about 6 mi. being approximately ^ of a mile in width. A sizable tributary joins it from the S. E. slopes of Mt. Longstaff. The total area of the glacier is 14 square miles. Access to the group is difficult, Probably the best 1 68 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION approach from the railway is via Swift Current creek, up which pack horses could be taken (considerable axe- work) to the amphitheater below the glacier tongue. Mt. Longstaff. 10500'. Appal., xv, p. i. A. J., xxvi, p. 382. C. A. J., iv, p. 35; vii, p. 65; viii, p. 133. S. W. of Continental Divide. N. W. of Mt. White- horn. Between sources of Small and Swift Current rivers . 1916 E. W. D. Holway, H. Palmer, A. J. Gilmour. From Fraser river valley, via Swift Current river. Camping at 5800' W. of tongue of Swift Current glacier, follow the ice to the E. ridge over which the summit may be gained without difficulty (7 hrs.). Descend by the same route (5 hrs.). 1915. The mountain was attempted from the W. by E. W. D. Holway and A. J. Gilmour. Ascending steep rocks from the bottom of the Small river valley, they attained the N. W. ridge at about 9700'. Here an ice-slope blocked the way and they had to turn back when but 100' below the summit. (4) The Bess Group This rather small group of three important moun- tains is situated on the Continental Divide 25 miles N. W. of Mt. Robson and N. of Bess pass. It has not as yet been adequately surveyed so that the altitudes are somewhat uncertain. Only tw^o of the high peaks have been climbed. Ir contains an immense glacier said to be between 30 and 40 square miles in extent. The group may be reached from the railway via THE BESS GROUP 169 Robson pass in about 4 days or by way of Moose river, Moose pass, and the Smoky river trail (5-6 days). It is also accessible from Jasper by way of the Snake Indian (Stony) river, and the pass at the head of its middle fork leading into the Smoky river. About 14 days of traveling by pack train is required by this route. Mt. Bess. 10468'. (11300?). A. J., xxvi, p. 14. Appal., xii, p. 347. C. A. J., iv, pp. 34, 137; vii, p. 98. G. J., xxxix, p. 231. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, vol. xlvii, p. 482. Continental Divide N. of Bess pass (Beaver river to Smoky river) . 191 1 A. L. Mumm, J. N. Collie, M. Inderhinen. From Bess pass: , . Route I. Via the S. face. Last 2000' up steep snow with occa- sional bits of ice and crossing several transverse bands of outcrop- ping limestone. Dome-shaped peak with an almost flat top. Route 2. Via the W. arete. Mt. Chown. 10893'. (11500'?)- C. A. J., vi, pp. 21, 179, 191. A. J., xxvi, pp. 390, 396 note. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, vol. xlvii, .p. 482. E. of Continental Divide. S. W. angle of Short river with Smoky river. It is probable that this is the peak triangulated by Wheeler at 10893'. This mountain appears not to have been climbed. Unnamed. (11300'?). A. J., xxvi, p.13. Appal., xii, p. 345. C. A. J., iv, p. 137; vii, p. 83. G. J., xxxix, 170 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION p. 230. E. of Continental Divide, on W. side of snow- field at head of Short river (Glacier creek). N. W. of Mt. Bess and of Mt. Chown. 191 1 A. L. Mumm, J. N. Collie, M. Inderhinen. Via Robson pass, Smoky and Short rivers. From a camp near the source of Glacier creek, the large glacier and its northerly mar- gin were followed. Two miles from the snout is the first icefall and I mi. farther, a second fall. The latter is dangerous, al- though moderately easy to cross. The glacier and neve are crossed for 4 mi. to the base of the peak, ascending the S. arete partly over rock and partly over snow. The glacier, as yet nameless, is immense. The area of neve is estimated at over thirty square miles. (5) The Sir Alexander Group This incompletely known group includes peaks lying on or near the Continental Divide between Meadow Lake pass and Jarvis pass, an air-line distance of about forty miles. Tne highest peaks lie west of The Divide between Jarvis pass and the headwaters of the S. branch of the Big Salmon river, culminating in Mt. Sir Alexander at about iiooo'. The peaks on the Divide itself are lower, averaging 8-9000'. The principal passes of this portion of the Divide are Meadow lake, Beaver dam, Avalanche, Sheep creek and Jarvis, although, owing to the low level of the northern section, horses may be taken across the Divide at many intermediate points. North of the mountain, between it and Mt. Ida, lie extensive snowfields ajid sever^,! attractive, though THE SIR ALEXANDER GROUP 171 lower, vSnow peaks. The area of ice around Mt. Sir Alexander is estimated at 35 square miles. This group and another nameless group of fine snow peaks lying to the north of it, at the headwaters of the N. branch of the Porcupine river, appear to constitute the northerly termination of the truly alpine portion of the Canadian Rockies. From the Mt. Joffre group at the head of Elk river to this point is 330 miles, as the crow flies. The glacier area of this nameless group seems to extend for fully 20 miles (Appal., xiii, pp. 255, 256). The southern branch of the Wapiti river appears to drain a portion of it. The general line of approach to Mt. Sir Alexander is from Robson pass, via the Smoky river, Jackpine pass and river, Jones and Avalanche passes and thence by way of passes west of the Divide at the head of Fraser- Smoky tributaries to the Big Salmon river (South Branch of the North Fork of the Fraser river). Out- fits require about fourteen days of steady traveling to reach the group from Jasper. On account of the great distances involved, it is probable that the Sir Alexander group (80 miles N. of Mt. Robson) will hardly prove as attractive to the climber as many of the groups farther south. Mt. Sir Alexander. (Kitchi.) ca. iiooo'. Appal., xiii, p. 283; xiv, p. 223. Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, xlvii, p. 481. C. A. J., vi, pp. 170, 188; vii, p. 82; ix, p. 79. W. of Contiiient^l Divide. 80 mj. N, W- of Mt. Robson. 172 YELLOWHEAD PASS REGION Head of Big Salmon river. (S. E. branch of the N. fork of the Fraser river.) 19 1 5 J. C Tyler, F. Doucette, D. Phillips. To within 100' of summit. From the N. via N. E. arete, the lower part being broken rock and the upper part ice and snow, much corniced. Mt. Ida. ca. loooo'. C. A. J., vi, pp. 177, 196. Appal., xiii, pp. 251, 252. W. of Continental Divide. S. W. of Jarvis pass. N. of Mt. Sir Alexander. Unnamed* ca. loooo'. See Map Bull. Am. Geog. Soc, vol. xlvii, p. 481. Continental Divide, S. of Beaver Dam pass. Other peaks of the Continental Divide, Fortress and Thunder, as well as several named peaks W. of the Divide such as Koona and Three Sisters, C. A. J., vi; Appal., xiii, p. 252, all appear to be under loooo'. Mt. Lloyd George, ca. I0000^ Four hundred miles N. W. of Mt. Robson at N. E. sources of the Fin- lay river between the Finlay arid the Nelson rivers; 150 miles N. of Peace liver. V'On the Headwaters of the Peace River," by P. L. Haworth. Scribner's Magazine, June and July, 1917; June, 1920. C. A. J., ix, p. 158. Although this mountain is situated far away from the known portions of the Canadian Rockies, reference is made to it at this place for completeness. The route of approach is by canoe from Hansard on the Fraser river not far from Prince George. Gis- MT. LLOYD GEORGE 173 come portage, Summit lake, and the Parsnip and Finlay rivers are followed to Finlay forks; thence up the Quadacha (White Waters) river to the forks of the latter. The Lloyd George gla- ciers drain by three tongues into a lake, six or seven miles long, the source of the Warneford river, (north fork of the Quadacha). From a high ridge, a view was obtained of the region between Liard river and Laurier pass. The ranges run parallel with the Finlay river. "There was no peak taller than Mt. Robson. Much the finest lay far to the N. E. with three great summits, two of them peaks, the third and tallest an immense block. Down the south slope of it, filling a great valley miles wide and miles long there flowed a perfectly immense glistening glacier . . . I venture to predict that when the glacier has been more closely examined it will be found to be one of the biggest in the whole Rocky Mountain system." A PRELIMINARY LIST OF THE LOFTIEST TRIANGU- LATED PEAKS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES, ARRANGED IN ORDER OF HEIGHT ROBSON Columbia . Twin, North Pyramid (estimated) . Forbes Alberta assiniboine Goodsir, South Tower Twin, South Temple Goodsir, North Tower Bryce Douglas Pk. Lyell (five peaks) Athabasca . hungabee . HUBER Edward VII Victoria Dome Stutfield . JOFFRE King George 174 A PRELIMINARY LIST OF LOFTIEST PEAKS 175 Deltaform . . . . . . . 11,225 Lefroy . . 11,220 St. Bride . 11,220 Alexandra 11,214 Sir Douglas 11,174 Resplendent 11,173 WOOLLEY 11,170 Victoria, North 11,150 Hector 11,135 Whitehorn 11,101 Bryce, N, E. Peak 11,100 Diadem . . 11,060 Edith Cavell 11,033 Douglas (Black) 11,015 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS A Aberdeen, Mt., 50 Abruzzi Mt., 12 Aiguille Pk., 72 Alan Campbell, Mt., 99 Albert, Mt. King, 17 Albert, Mt. Prince, 19 Alberta, Mt., 116 Alcantara, Mt., 27 Alcove Mt., 149 Alexander, Mt. Sir, 171 Alexandra, Mt., 103 Allenby, Mt., 26 Amgadamo, Mt., 72 Amiskwi Pk., 90 Angle Pk., 149 Angle Pk., ']2 Aosta, Mt., 12 Aquila, Mt., 149 Arctomys Pk., 108 Arethusa, Mt., 7 Aries Pk. , 73 Armstrong, Mt., 5 Arras, Mt., 103 Assiniboine, Mt., 22 Athabasca, Mt., 116 Aye, Mt., 23 Ayesha, Mt., 73 Aylmer, Mt., 33 B Babel, Mt., 51 Babel Tower, 52 Back, Mt., 17 Baker, Mt., 73 Balfour, Mt., ']2> Ball Mt., 29 Barbette, Mt., 73 Barbican Pk., 145 Baril Pk., 5 Barlow, Mt., 96 Barnard, Mt., 93 Basilica, Mt., 149 Bastion Pk., 146 Beatty, Mt., 13 Beehive Mt., 5 Bergne, Mt., 95 Bess, Mt., 169 Biddle, Mt., 57 Bident, Mt., 52 Birdwood, Mt., 15 Bishop, Mt., 5 Black Douglas Pk., f 6 Black Friars, 117 Blackhorn Pk., 149 Blackwater Mt., 92 Blakiston, Mt., 2 Bonnet Pk., 33 Boom, Mt.,. 39 Borgeau, Mt., 31 Bosworth, Mt., 74 Bow Pk., 74 Brachiopod Mt., 85 Brazeau, Mt., 128 Breaker, Mt., 74 Brett, Mt., 31 Bride, Mt. St., 88 Brown, Mt., 139-142 Brussilof, Mt., 27 Bryce, Mt., 117 177 178 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS Bulyea, Mt., 99 Burgener, Mt., 99 Burgess, Mt., 74 Burstall, Mt., 15 Bush Mt., 103 Byng, Mt., 26 Cadorna, Mt., 12 Cairnes, Mt., 96 Calumet Pk., 155 Cambrai, Mt., 104 Carnarvon, Mt., 74 Cascade Mt., 33 Casemate Mt., 146 Castelets, The, 108 Castelnau, Mt., 12 Castleguard, Mt., 108 Castle Mt., 34 Cataract Pk., 85 Cathedral Mt., 58 Cathedral Crags, 59 Cautley, Mt., 23 Cavell, Mt. Edith, 149 Centurion, The, 27 Chaba, Mt., 117 Chak Pk., 150 Chancellor, Mt., 64 Charlton, Mt., 130 Chevron, Mt., 150 Chown, Mt., 169 Chimney Pk., 39 Chisel Pk., 122 Cirque Pk., 85 Cliff Mt., 155 Cline, Mt., 109 CHtheroe, Mt., 150 Coleman, Mt., 109 Collie, Mt., 74 Collier, Mt., 39 Colonel, The, 154 Columbia, Mt., 118 Consort, Mt., 155 Consolation Pk., 104 Conway, Mt., 95 Copper, Mt., 31 Cordonnier, Mt., 10 Cornwell, Mt., 5 Coronation, Mt., 99 Costigan, Mt., 34 Courcelette, Mt., 7 Cross, Mt., of the, 135 Crowsnest Mt., 2 Curia, Mt., 150 Currie, Mt., 26 Cyclone Pk., 86 D Daly, Mt., 75 Darrah, Mt., 3 Defender, Mt., 12 Deltaform, Mt., 40 Dent, Mt., 99 Despine, Mt , 45 Deville, Mt., 90 Devil's Head Mt., 34 Devil's Thumb, 52 Diadem Pk., 118 Diadem Pk., 155 Dolomite Pk., 86 Dome, The, 119 Dorland, Mt., 165 Douai, Mt., 108 Douglas, Mt., 119 Douglas, Mt., 86 Douglas, Mt. Sir, 14 Drummond, Mt., 86 Due, Le, Mt., 149 Duchesnay, Mt., 59 Dungeon Pk., 146 Duplex, Mt., 104 E Ebon Pk., 75 Eden Pk., 119 Edith, Mt., 34 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 179 Edward VII, Mt. King, 119 Edward, Mt. Prince, 20 Ego, Mt., 104 Eiffel Pk., 53 Eight, Pk., 40 Elizabeth, Mt. Queen, 18 Emerald, Mt., 80 Eon, Mt., 24 Erebus, Mt., 150 Eremite, Mt., 150 Erris, Mt., 3 Estella, Mt., 151 Etherington, Mt., 5 Excelsior Mt., 129 Fairview, Mt., 53 Farbus, Mt., 108 Farquhar, Mt., 5 ' Fatigue Mt., 24 Fay, Mt., 40 Field, Mt., 75 Fitzwilliam, Mt., 146 Fitzhugh, Mt., 149 Five, Pk., 41 Foch, Mt., 10 Forbes, Mt., 104 Fort Pk., 88 Fortalice, Mt., 152 Fortress Mt., 132 Fortress, The, 172 Fossil Mt., 86 Four Pk., 41 Fox, Mt., 10 Franchere Pk., 150 Francis, Mt., 8, 129 Francklyn, Mt., 63 Eraser, Mt., 146 French, Mt., 15 Freshfield, Mt., 99 Fresnoy, Mt., 108 G Gable Pk., 106 Gable Pk., 3 Galleon, The, 135 Garth, Mt., 100 Gass, Mt., 6 Geikie, Mt., 147 Gendarme, Mt., 164 George, Mt. King, 19 George, Mt. Prince, 20 Gibraltar Rock, 26 Gilgit, Mt., 96 Girouard, Mt., 35 Glacier Pk., 41 Gloria, Mt., 24 Goat, Mt., 53 Goat's Tower, 27 Golden Eagle Pk., 105 Goodsir, Mt., 65 Gordon, Mt., 76 Gould Dome, 3, 7 Green, Mt., 48 H Habel, Mt., 79 Haddo Pk., 53 Haiduk Pk., 30 Hanbury Pk., 66 Hazel, Mt., 50 Hector, Mt., 86 Heejee, Mt., 40 Helmer, Mt., 97 Helmet, Mt., 66 Helmet, The, 158 Henry, Mt. Prince, 20 Hole-in-the-Wall Mt., 35 Hoodoo Pk., 155 Hooge, Mt., 108 Hooker, Mt., 139-142 Howse Pk., 76 Huber, Mt., 59 Hungabee, Mt., 42 Hurd, Mt., 66 i8o INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS I Longstaff, Mt., 168 Louis, Mt., 35 Icefall Pk., 104 Low, Mt., 97 Ida, Mt., 172 Lunette Pk., 24 Indian Pk., 2'j Lyall, Mt., 6 Inglismaldie, Mt., 35 Lyell, Mt., 106 Isabelle Pk., 30 Lyautey, Mt., 11 Isolated Pk., 76 Lynx, Mt., 159 J M Jellicoe, Mt., 15 Magog, Mt., 24 JofEre, Mt., 10 Majestic, Mt., 152 John, Mt. Prince, 20 Mangin, Mt., 11 Julien, St., Mt., 105 Manitoba, Mt., 119 Manx Mt., 152 K Margerie, Mt., 95 Mariborough, Mt., 11 Kain, Mt., 158 Marpole, Mt., -jj Katherine, Mt., 28 Marshal, The, 28 Kaufmann, Mt., 77 Mary, Mt. Princess, 20 Kemmel, Mt., 106 Mary, Mt. Queen, 20 Kerkeslin, Mt., 129 Maude, Mt., 15 Kerr, Mt., 77 McArthur, Mt., 78 King, Mt., 91 McConnell, Mt., 87 Kitchi, Mt. , 171 McCuaig, Mt., 12 Kiwetinok Pk., jj McHarg, Mt., 6 Koona, Mt., 172 McLaren, Mt., 6 McMullen, Mt., 78 L McPhail, Mt., 6 Mercer, Mt., 27 La Clytte, Mt., io3 Messines, Mt., 107 Lamb3, Mt., 95 Michael Pk., formerly Angle Laussedat, Mt., 97 Pk., q. V. 72 Lectern Pk., N., 151 Midway Pk., 78 Lefroy, Mt., 44 Mist Mt., 8 ■ Lens, Mt., 106 Mistaya, Mt., 78 Le Roy, Mt., 14 Misty Mt., 122 Lilliput, Mt., 77 Mitchell, Mt., 30 Limestone Pk., 66 Mitre Pk., 54 Little, Mt., 44 Molar, Mt., 87 Lloyd George, Mt., 172 MolHson, Mt., 66 Loomis, Mt., 6 Monarch, Mt., 32 Lonespur, Mt., 130 Monarch, Mt., 155 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 181 Monchy, Mt., io8 Onslow, Mt,, 12 Monro, Mt., 15 Oppy, Mt., 108 Mons, Mt., 107 Outpost Pk., 151 Morrison, Mt., 27 Outram, Mt. 107 Mostyn, Mt., 129 Owen, Mt., 60 Mo watt, Mt., 159 Oyster Pk., 87 Mt. of the Cross, 135 Mumm Pk., 165 P Mummery, Mt., 97 Mummy Pk., 3 Murchison, Mt., 109 Murray, Mt., 16 Pamm, Mt., 155 Pangman Pk., 100 Panther Mt., 36 Park, Mt., 60 N Patterson, Mt., 79 Peechee, Mt., 36 Naiset Pk., 28 Pelee, Mt., 146 Nanga Parbat, Mt., 98 Petain, Mt., 11 Narao Pk., 55 Peyto Pk., 79 Nasswald Pk., 25 Pierce, Mt., 6 Needles, The, 52 Pika Pk., 87 Neptuak, Mt., 45 Pika Pk., Second, 89 Nestor Pk., 28 Pilot Mt., 31 Niblock, Mt., 55 Pilkington, Mt., 100 Nicholas, Mt. St., 79 Pinnacle, Mt., 55 Nichols, Mt , 39 Piran, St., Mt , 56 Nigel Pk., 129 Poilus, Mt. des, 79 Niles, Mt., 79 Pope's Pk., 45, 55 Nine, Pk., 45 Portal Pk., 80 Nivelle, Mt., 12 Postern Mt., 147 Niverville, Mt., 100 President, Mt., 80 Noir, Roche, 151 Prior Pk., loi Norquay, Mt ,36 ' . Ptarmigan Pk., 87 Northover, Mt., 11 Ptarmigan, 163 Noyes, Mt., no Ptolemy, Mt., 3 Nub Pk., 28 Putnik, Mt., 16 Pyramid, Mt., 156 Pyramid, Pk., 80 Observation Pk., no Pyramid, The, 122 Odaray, Mt., 60 Q Ogre Pk., 91 7^ Oke, Mt., 66 Quadra, Mt., 45 Oldhorn Mt., 151 Queant, Mt., 108 Olive, Mt., 79 Quincy, Mt., 120 One, Pk., 40 Query Pk., 103 1 82 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS R Rae, Mt., 8 Rearguard, Mt., 159 Red Indian Pk., 91 Red Man, Mt., 25 Redburn Pk., 91 Redoubt, Mt., 88 Redoubt Pk., 147 Resplendent, Mt., 159 Resolution, Mt., 165 Rhondda, Mt., 81 Richardson, Mt., 88 Ringrose Pk., 46 Robertson, Mt., 15 Robson, Mt., 160 Roche Noir, 151 Rostrum Pk., 104 Rundle, Mt., 31 Russel, Mt., 90 Saddle Pk., 36 Saknowa, Mt., 40 Samson Pk., 130 Sarbach, Mt., 81 Sarrail, Mt., 11 Saskatchewan, Mt., 120 Saurian Pk., 165 Schaffer, Mt., 61 Scrimger, Mt., 6 Sealion, Mt., 91 Sentinel Mt., 55 Serenity, Mt., 133 Seven, Pk,, 4S Sharp, Mt., 67 Shaughnessy, Mt,, 80 Sheol, 53, 56 Silverhorn, Mt., iii Sirdar, Mt., 130 Six, Pk., 47 Skene, Mt., 95 Smith Dorrien, Mt,, 16 Smuts, Mt., 16 Snowbird, Pk., 163 Solitaire, Mt.,95 Spencer Mts., 91 Spike Pk., 91 Spring Rice, Mt., 108 Stairway Pk., 81 Stanley Pk., 32 Stephen, Mt., 62 Stephens Mts., 92 Stewart, Mt., iii Storelk, Mt., 6 Storm Mt., 30 Strahan, Mt., 96 Sturdee, Mt., 28 Stutfield, Pk., 120 Sulphur, Mt., 37 Synge, Mt., 82 Temple, Mt., 56 Ten, Peak, 50 Termier, Mt., 96 Terminal, Mt., 152 Terrace, Mt., loS Terrapin, Mt., 25 Thompson, Mt., 82 Three, Pk., 47 Three Sisters, 32 Three Sisters, 172 Throne, Mt., 151 Thunder, Mt., 172 Titkana Pk., 163 . Tornado, Mt., 7 Towers, Mt,, 25 Trapper Pk., 82 Trolltinder Mt., 82 Trutch, Mt., 98 Turner, Mt., 27 Turret Pk., 147 Turret Pk., 107 Tuzo, Mt., 48 Twins, The, 120 INDEX OF NAMED PEAKS 183 Two, Pk., 44 Tyrwhitt, Mt., 7 ■ U Unwin, Mt., 130 Upright, Mt., 154 V Valenciennes, Mt., 108 Vaux, Mt., 67 Vavasour, Mt., 18 Vertex Pk., 152 Vice-President, Mt., 82 Victoria, Mt., 48 Victoria, N. Pk., 49 Vista Pk., 147 W Walker, Mt., loi Wapta, Mt., 83 Warre, Mt., 18 Warrior, Mt., 11 Watchman Pk., loS Watchtower, The, 130 Watson, Mt., 28 Weed, Mt., in Wedgwood Pk., 28 Wenkchemna Pk., 50 White, Mt., 37 Whitecap, Mt., 156 White Douglas Pk., 8^ Whiteaves, Mt., 96 Whitehorn, Mt., 166 White Man, Mt., 18 Whiterose, Mt., 108 Whymper, Mt., 63 Whyte, Mt., 57 Wilcox, Pk., 120 Willerval, Mt., 108 Williams, Mt., 15 Wilson, Mt., Ill Wind Mt., 32 Witches, Pk., 82 Wonder Pk,, 25 Woolley, Pk., 120 Y Yoho Pk., 84 Yukness, Mt., 63 Yuh-hai-has-kun, 160 Zillebeke, Mt., 108 Zinc, Mt., 67 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS