SF 485 .R47 1919 Copy 1 pooey HOUSES yifw: Mm^mMmm WELL-PLANNED HOUSES ON POULTRY PLANT AT U. S. GOVERNMENT EXPERIMENT FARM The planning and location of houses are subjects worthy ol the poultry keepei tical, helpful suggrestions will be found in the above views on the poultry plant t at Beltsville, Md. 1 — Colonv house for growing stock on range. J—CocKerei n 4 — Colonv house for growing stock in woodland. 5 — Gable-roof breeding house, (breeders or layers) on range. 7 — Compartment house for layers or breeders, t' Host careful attention. Many prac- he U. S. Department of Agriculture e. 3 — Portable colony hover house. — Portable house for adult stock house at right. POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES How to Lay Out Poultry Plants. Accurate Plans for Constructing Practical, Economical Laying Houses, Large and Small. Low-cost Construction for Back Yard Poultry Keepers. Colony and Portable Houses, Incubator and Brooder Houses, Administration and Other Special Purpose Buildings. Labor-Saving Interior and Exterior P^ixtures and Equipment FULLY ILLUSTRATED EIGHTH EDITION PRICE, $1.00 Copyright liy . RKI.IABI.F. rolLTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING COMl'ANV Quincy. Illinois 1919 PUBLISHED BY RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING COMPANY QUINCY, ILLINOIS. U. S. A. CONXENTTS INTRODUCTION CHAPTER I Locating and Planning Poultry Houses 7 CHAPTER II Economical Back Yard Poultry Houses 25 CHAPTER III Houses for Commercial Laying Flocks 34 CHAPTER IV Laying Houses to Meet Special Conditions 45 CHAPTER V Comfortable Houses for F)reeding Pens 57 - CHAPTER VI Portable Colony and Brooder Houses 65 CHAPTER VII Permanent Brooder Houses 70 CHAPTER VIII Practical Incubator Houses 79 CHAPTER IX Administration and Other Special Buildings 83 CHAPTER X Interior Fixtures and Equipment 91 CHAPTER XI Exterior Fixtures and General Equipment 104 Index Ill )CI.»5I2820 25 1919 INTRODUCTION CC'l'LTRY houses correctly planned and built are vitally important to the success of every poultry HJBM enterprise, whether it is to be established on a =™B8 large or a small scale. While such houses must (if necessity be comparatively plain and simple in design, they also must meet certain definite conditions to be gen- uinely practical. Regardless of size, every such building, for whatever purpose intended, must provide not only for the comfort and well-being of the fowls, but also for the convenience of the caretaker. And it must do this always at moderate cost. To be able to design a house that will meet these truly important requirements, calls for much practical experi- ence, for a Avide knowledge of what others have tried and found satisfactory — or unsatisfactory — along the same lines, and finally, for some knowledge of the general principle^ of architecture. It is small wonder if begin- ners and even experienced poultry keepers, make innumer- able mistakes in their building operations — mistakes that must be corrected at heavy expense or remain as perma- nent handicaps to their future success. Under such conditions there is an unquestioned need for a book that shall present, in a fairly comprehensive manner, the best that is available in practical up-to-date plans conservatively designed to meet the requirements of poultry keepers wherever located. It was to supply this need that "Poultry Houses and Fixtures" was published, the first edition of which was issued in 1897, and which has been revised from time to time to keep pace with the rapid developments that have taken place in this branch of poultry science since that date. In point of fact, this development has been so rapid and so radical that in this latest revision it has been found necessary to employ new plans and new descriptive matter almost exclusively throughout all sections of the book. .\s the completed work now stands we believe that it meets the requirements of practical poultry keepers to a degree unequalled by any similar publication. It contains complete and thoroughly tested plans for each type of house that is likely to be required for the use of fowls, fixtures and general equipment have received special atten- tion and we have taken advantage of the opportunity afforded by this revision, to supply a chapter presenting clearly and in much detail, the general principles of poul- try-house design and construction, so that the individual builder, even though he may have had little or no personal experience, will be able to weigh with reasonable accu- racy the respective merits of the different plans, as they relate to his particular requirements, and also intelligently to make such modifications as his individual conditions may render desirable. The changes in approved types of poultry houses that have taken place in recent years have been particularly marked in the case of those provided for laying and breeding flocks. When "Poultry Houses and Fixtures" was first published, warmth in winter was regarded as of the first importance in such houses, and all details of con- struction were designed p.imarily to "provide summer con- ditions in winter." without which profitable egg produc- tion was regarded as out of the question. These houses were liberally supplied with glass and often were provided with sloping fronts, skylights, and double walls carefully packed with insulating material. All of these added great- ly to the cost and, as we now know, are entirely unneces- sary and may even prove injurious to the fowls. Experience has shown that closed-front houses are almost invariably poorly ventilated, damp, and unsanitary in winter, and that fowls in them are especially liable to colds, roup, and other diseases directly traceable to such cimditions. For this reason, and also on account of the extra cost of building such houses, their popularity soon waned and in some sections, notably New England, scratching-shed houses of the type illustrated on page 34 came into vogue for a time. The scratching-shed house gave the fowls much better conditions in the daytime but, with mistaken kindness, still provided a "warm" place for them at night, the place being, as a rule, a dark, in- adequately ventilated "dungeon" so obviously objection- able from a sanitary viewpoint that the popularity of the scratching-shed house was never more than local. It served chiefly as a stepping stone in the change from the old-fashioned warm house to the present curtain-front or open-front type which undoubtedly meets the require- ments of adult fowls more nearly than any other now known. The practice of using houses with open fronts or curtain fronts has become almost universal in the last few years, and it is only under peculiar conditions that closed-front houses are now regarded as practical. While the terms "open front" and "curtain front," as ap- plied to poultry houses, are used rather indiscriminately, the former, strictly speaking, refers to a front the greater part of which is left open at all times. The "curtain front" also has large openings, but these are provided with curtains or cloth-covered shutters which can be closed in extreme weather. The "closed-front" house has all openings covered with glass sash. It is common knowl- edge now that fowls will lay well in cold houses so long as they are free from drafts and dampness, and nothing has done so much to reduce losses from disease and to make poultry keeping a practical, money-making industry, as the general adoption of fresh-air houses. No one person can claim the credit for the develop- ment of this method of poultry-house construction. It has been the gradual result of the experience and obser- vation of practical poultrymen in widely separated loca- tions, who have found that still cold is not a serious obstacle to winter egg production, and that the proper use of muslin curtains or muslin-covered shutters insures the best kind of ventilation, at the same time keeping the house as warm as it is possible to have it and secure the free ciiculation that now is generally regarded as abso- lutely essential to the health of the fowls. The famous Maine Station cloth-front poultry house, illustrated on page 35 was one of the first houses of this type to be built, and it has served as a model for thousands of others. Acting apparently on the belief that if a little fresh air is good, a great deal is better, some extreme types of open-front houses have been developed. These houses serve practically no purpose except to protect the hens from direct storms, the inside temperature being little if any higher than outdoors. These extremely cold houses appear to have been developed through a failure to real- ize that if fowls lay well in them they do so, not be- cause the houses are cold, but in spite of that fact. In other words, there is no advantage in exposing the hens unnecessarily to extreme cold. On the contrary, it is a distinct advantage to keep the house as warm as is pos- sible without interfering with proper ventilation. Sooner or later poultrymen who adopt radical open-front con- striiction are glad, as a rule, to provide muslin protection and to utilize it fully on occasion. The foregoing applies, of course, only to winter condi- tions in cold climates. For warm weatb.r ii scarcely is I ossible to provide too much ventilation. This is, in fact, one of the builder's most difficult problems— to secure sufficient ventilation in warm weather without making the house too cold for successful winter use — and in the north it calls for careful proportioning of window and muslin-covered surfaces to the total floor space enclosed. The building plans given in this book are conserva- tively designed with reference to the amount of glass and muslin-covered openings provided. These houses, as illustrated, are intended to meet the requirements of poultrymen in moderately cold climates. The only change that is necessary to adapt them to extremes, either of cold or heat, is to increase or decrease the size of the curtains. Glass windows are not required south of the Ohio River. Some poultry keepers far north of that lati- tude omit glass sashes, but as a rule it is doubtful whether it is true economy to do so. In all northern lati- tudes there are many cold, stormy days in winter when the curtains must be down, and the houses will be inade- quately lighted at such times unless some glass is provided. Muslin-front construction is applicable to laying and breeding houses, colony houses, portable houses, and brooding coops. For permanent brooder houses, which are used mainly in severe winter weather, conditioning houses, incubator cellars, etc., other and more suitable methods of ventilation are provided. The widespread popularity of the muslin-front house has resulted in a virtual standardization of poultry-house construction — one of the most encouraging developments in the industry. Uniformity and simplicity in house de- sign mean economy in construction and greater certainty of results than can possibly be achieved where there are no established standards to adhere to, andf where each builder feels the need of originating a special type of house to meet his particular requirements. There still is, and probably always will be. a tendency among beginners to try to work out original plans in poul- try-house construction, but it is one that, in the inter- ests of economy and efficiency, should be firmly repressed. The beginner can safely assume tfiat the essentials of poultry-house construction are now so thoroughly under- stood that approved general plans now require only slight modifications to adapt them to special requirements of location or climate, in practically all parts of tjie coun- try; also, that the advantages of adopting standard de- signs are so great that scarcely any practical condition will justify radical departures from them. Many new plans have been prepared expressly for "Poultry Houses and Fixtures," embodying, in each in- stance, only those designs and details that have been de- veloped and tested in practical, every day experience. We have attempted to present sufificient variety to meet the requirements of poultry keepers in all parts of the coun- try. Throughout the book, however, it will be seen that, so far ^s laying and breeding houses are concerned, we have kept close to certain clearly defined standards, so that there need be no confusion in the mind of the reader as to just what changes, if any, need be made in a given plan to adapt it completely to his own conditions, what- ever they may be. As a rule, complete bills of materials required in building the different houses are supplied, but no estimates of constiuction cost are given, or only in the most general way. Prices of all kinds of materials vary so widely at the present time that estimates of cost would serve no practical purpose. At the risk of seeming repetition we desire to im- press upon the prospective builder that, in poultry-house construction particularly, experiments are costly. Doubt- less there are possibilities for improvement in the best plans, but the brightest and most experienced poultrymen and women in the country have been studying the build ing problem for many years. In connection with the plans here given there is scarcely a modification or change that is likely to suggest itself to the beginner that has not been tried out many times and under many conditions, and rejected for good and sufficient reasons. It is com- mendable to be on the lookout for better plans^for ad- vanced ideas, but the practical conservatism that allows "the other fellow" to try out new things first, saves much disappointment and expense. The beginner, therefore, who carefully considers his needs and requirements, and then selects the house that most nearly meets his conditions and follows the plans literally from foundation to roof, will save time and money and he will be certain of having a building that will not disappoint him when put to practical test. In the designing and testing of poultry houses the various state agricultural experiment stations have taken a leading part in recent years. Much of the present stand- ardization in poultry-house construction, to which refer- ence has already been made, must be credited to this source. In "Poultry Houses and Fixtures" we have availed ourselves freely of the plans given in the various state and national government bulletins on the subject. In presenting plans and detailed descriptions from this source, personal credit has been given wherever pos- sible, but we wish here to express our especial indebted- ness for helpful suggestions and down-to-the-minute in- formation secured through direct correspondence with many of these government workers, each a recognized leader in the poultry industry, and each with special fit- ness for giving instruction in poultry-house design by reason of elaborate and long-continued experiments in this particular line. This edition of "Poultry Houses annd Fixtures" has been carefully edited by Homer W. Jackson, Associate "Editor of Reliable Poultry Journal, who has prepared many of theplans. and has furnished all of the text not dulv credited to other contributors. CHAPTER I Locating and Planning Poultry Houses Laying Out the Poultry Plant to Save Time aad Labor— How to Design Poultry Houses and Adapt Plans to Meet Special Conditions— Practical Building Suggestions That Insure Comfort and Health of Fowls at Reasonable Cost— Details of Carpenter Work Made Easy for Amateur Builders fi OWLS are highly adaptable with respect to the conditions under which they may successfully be kept. This is extremely fortunate, because the poultry keeper's choice of location often is nec- essarily determined by personal rather than by practical considerations. There are some conditions as to climate, soil, market, etc., that are conceded to be ideal for poul- try keeping, but it by no means follows that success is out of the question where these are lacking. On the con- trary, the great majority of successful poultry keepers have made good in the face of obvi- ous handicaps. Success, therefore, is not so much a matter of location as it is of intelligently adapting meth- ods to the particular conditions that are to be met. Consideration of the numerous gen- eral problems of poultry farm loca- tion does not come within the scope of this work. It is assumed that this ■ nportant subject has received due attention here, and that the reader already has his farm or plot of ground, of whatever size, and wishes now to learn how he can utilize it to best advantage in the development of his poultry flock, locating and planning the buildings with a view to securing every practical conveni- ence, at the same time avoiding un- necessary expense. He will also want to learn how to avoid making mis- takes that may' prove to be serious handicaps in years to come. It may be well, however, to say that, where choice is possible, the poultry plant should have sandy or gravelly soil, for the sake of drainage. The ideal soil for the poul- try plant is sandy loam — sandy enough to be well drained, but fertile enough to hold a sod and produce quick- growing crops under cultivation. It is entirely practicable to keep fowls successfully on ';lay soils, but intensive methods are not to be recom- mended under these conditions. Such soils are much more apt to become infected with disease germs and they require quite different treatment from the free and easy methods that are permissible on sandy soils. ' Regardless of where the houses are located, good drainage is essential. There is no possible excuse for building where surface water can obtain access t6 the floor, or for locating the house in a place where standing water is present. If the desired location is low, it should be filled in and raised at least a foot above its surround- ing's. In damp locations a board floor three or more teet .above the ground is especially desirable, but do not make this elevated floor an excuse for building over a low, wet spot. Such a location is positively unhealthful and will certainly result in disease and heavy losses. sheltered from prevailing cold winds by an elevation or a strip of woodland, as shown in Fig. 1, gives the fowls a distinct advantage over others not so protected. Lacking such natural advantages planting windbreaks of evergreens should be one of the first steps taken toward developing a new poultry plant, particularly in locations that are exposed to high winds. As a rule, a southern or southeastern slope is de- sirable. This permits the houses to face the sun without being exposed to prevailing winds which, in most sections FIG. 1— WKLL 1.UCATKD I'UULTRY HOUSE. WITH OUTDOOR FEED HOPPER AND WATER BARREL It pays to provide neat, attractive poultry houses, located where the fowls will have plenty of shade and where they will be protected from storms. Con- venient equipment for supplying feed and water, as shown above, greatly re- duces the labor of caring: for the fowls. Photo from Purdue University. of this country, are from the west or southwest. .\ southern exposure is not to be regarded as imperative, however, under any and all conditions. Where the pre- \ailing winds are from soir.e other quarter, and in warm climafes where summer heat is more to be guarded against ihait winter cold, it will be much more satisfactory to face the house in some other direction. Even in the north, an eastern exposure is hy no means undesirable, though in this case all openings, yard doors as well as windows, must be suitably protected against the heavy storms that occasionally come from that quarter. All such considerations as these should, of course, receive attention in the original selection of the land, on which the poultry plant is to' be located. The position of the buildings themselves is, for the most part, determined by considerations of convenience and of economy in labor and time. Intensive or Extensive Methods The ainount of land required for developing a profit- able poultry plant depends t,ipon whether the plant, is to . be operated on the intensive or the extensive plan; that is, whether the fowls are to be confined to comparatively close quarters or are to have practically free range. One In the north every natural feature that will serve the. . to two thousand hens may be kept on one. acre of ground, pm:POse of a windbreak should be utilized to the fullest but the labor of caring for them is much greater than possible extent. A poultry plant or an individual house where more room is provided, and the danger frorn VT5' /'P^a.v^e /v7f- C}!~c:ii^j//i^ /iot^c-yf C- C: Vuvi' =''' i^f fe.^ A' I? D a3 c>v 1 ;;; ;;i; ;;;■;;; D N O {J> 0) (ZO i^i^jii'i i ;o UAMOOLDS ^'r> CABBAGE HAY ^'A O, DODO 0} (7 >J) EPJCEDIHO DEPARTl ^A ^:^ G> O 0) (EIIT f. r3 q'° 0} 0) Q) Orchard Q 0> (3 C3 (■■■ 6> - [b] POULTRY 1 1 1 1 1 1 •J C) LAYIMS or 7 AHD HOME n Brooding 4 Gro«ij3g cti ^1) 03 6) 0) GAJEEH S CO O & '3 G PLAN FOR L.\YING OUT A ONE-MAN, TEN-ACRE POULTRY FARJI Designed by Poultry Department, Mass. Agr. College. $1.00. Elaborate houses carry with them no advantage, aside from appearance. Instead, they usually develop disadvantages which do not exist in simple, plain con- struction. In some of the plans in this book the reader will find alternative methods of construction indicated or su;;- gested. What may be called the regular method aims at providing a substantial, durable building at moderate ex- pense. The "low-cost" alternatives suggested show how the same houses can be built at the lowest practicable first cost where the strictest economy is demanded. It is true that fowls may not be any more comforta- ble in a house with concrete foundation and floor and with No, 1 tongue-and-groove siding neatly painted, than in one with a dirt floor, with common sheathing boards covered with a good grade of roofing paper. With- out doubt, however, the latter style of construction will prove much more expensive than the former in a period of ten years, because of the greater amount of labor in- POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES volved in cleaning and renewing the dirt floor, and in the increased cost of repairs in the building itself. The man who is limited in capital is far too liable to make the common mistake of building "makeshift" structures. There are many conditions under which low cost of construction is practical and genuinely economical, but let all cost reductions be carefully considered to make sure that they are genuine economies and not the pound foolishness of penny wisdom. -CORRECT WAY TO DRAIN HOUSE SITE SLOPING GROUND What Materials to Use The kind of materials to be used will be decided en- tirely by relative cost, in most cases. Almost any kind of sound lumber can be used to good advantage in the poultry house, though it is well to keep in mind that the labor cost of working soft woods is much less than where hard woods are employed. It does not pay to purchase inferior material where inferiority affects durability, or where it involves serious waste. As a rule, however. cheaper grades of lumber can be used than would be advisable in larger buildings, especially where a substan- tial concrete foundation is provided and where, the sides are covered with prepared roofing. Second-hand material sometimes can be purchased to good advantage, and many poultrymen are able to pro- vide accommodations for their fowls at comparatively lit- tle expense by utilizing lumber from wrecked buildings, railroad cars, etc. Old railroad ties frequently can be used as sills, and in many similar ways the careful buyer can materially reduce his lumber bill. In making such purchases, however, keep in mind the fact that it costs a good deal more to build houses with second-hand lum- ber than with new lumber that can be purchased to exact size. The expense of getting the lumber separated and sorted, removing nails, sawing to size, and the resultant waste, all should carefully be estimated before buying such material. How to Order Lumber In planning poultry houses, special attention should be given to the dimensions of lumber as obtainable in or- dinary lumber yards. It would be unwise, for example, to plan a house 15x25 feet, under ordinary conditions, as lumber comes in even lengths and there would be con- siderable waste in cutting timbers to fit these dimensions. A house 16x24 feet will accommodate the same number of hens, and can be built with practically no waste in cutting the framing timbers and boards. Where the dimensions are in odd feet but in short lengths, it is possible to avoid loss by ordering double lengths. For example, in the case of a shed-roof building seven feet high in the front, five feet in the rear, and ten feet wide, fourteen-foot studding should be ordered for the front wall, ten-foot studding for the rear wall, and fourteen- foot pieces for the ends, each piece making two studs. The rafters will have to be twelve feet long, though eleven would answer. In this case it would not pay to order double lengths of twenty-two feet, as the price of timbers per foot, board measure, generally advances with lengths exceeding sixteen feet, and this advance would e.xceed the saving in waste. In the preparation of bills of materials for the plans shown in this book, the particular grade of lumber to be used is not specified, as much will depend on local markets and the preferences of the builder. For permanent buildings the grade known as No. 1 common will usually be speci- fied for rafters, sills and joists, and No. 2 for studs and plates. For trim lumber and siding No. 1 common will do, unless it is to be cov- ered with roofing paper or shingles, in which case No. 2 common may be used. For sub- floors and roof sheathing No. 2 common will answer. Sheathing boards for the roof should be surfaced on two sides; trim lumber should — be No. 1 common and surfaced on four sides. ON Where the surfacing must be done to order, and at extra cost, it may not be prac- tical to insist on this in all cases, but as it often is desirable to reverse boards in order to cut them to good advantage and to hide minor defects, it is desir- able to have exposed boards surfaced on all sides if pos- sible. Inside walls can be painted or whitewashed at less expense if smooth, and prepared roofing will last longer when laid on a smooth surface. Dimensions of the Laying House In planning the laying house, about four square feet of floor space is required for a hen, where flocks of one hundred or thereabouts are provided for. In mild climates where the hens do not have to he confined to the house for long periods, an allowance of three feet per fowl will prove sufficient. If the flock is quite small, five square feet should be provided, and in the case of breeding stock, six to eight feet per fowl is recommended. The height of the front must be proportioned to the depth in order to get sufficient pitch to shed rain, also lo admit sunlight to the back part. The latter, however, is not regarded so essential as it was a few years ago, and many practical poultry- men now are building houses 16 to 24 feet wide with what is known as a combination roof (see Fig. 23). in which the front is seldom more than about seven feet high. PIG. 6 — SQUARING A CORNER Obviously, this will not admit sunlight to the back part of the house, even though the openings are carried clear up to the rafters. As an offset to this the practice of installing small windows in the rear wall under the droppings platform is becoming popular (see Fig. 37). Such windows, while they do not admit direct sunlight, make the back part of the house light and more attractive to the fowls. The extent to which the sun's rays will be admitted to the poultry house in different seasons of the year, with LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES L3 windows placed 4, 6 and 7 feet high, respectively, is clear- ly shown in Fig. 7, on this page. In the wintertime, with the window 4 feet high, direct sunlight will never reach farther back than 9 feet from the front (see dotted line). With the window 6 feet high it will penetrate to li'/t feet (see line of dashes), and at 7 feet it will reach the rear of a 16-foot house (see solid line). In the summer- time when the sun is higher in the sky, the penetration will be much less, as shown by the second series of lines. It should be understood that in each case these lines represent extreme penetration, which lasts for but a short time, and occurs only when the sun is rising or setting and when the rays have comparatively little power. Pro- vision for securing direct sunlight on all parts of the pen floor, therefore, is practical only to a limited extent, and the advantage of doing so probably is very slight. It is much more practical to be sure that the window and shutter openings are placed so as to light and ven- tilate the house properly and conveniently, without ex- posing the fowls to diafts. and without being too greatly exercised over the theoret- ical advantages of "flooding the house with sunshine." The height of the house, as has already been sug- gested, is determined chiefly by the require- ments of the attendant. The rear or north wall sel- dom need be more than five feet high, and where prepared roofing is used, the front need not be over seven or seven and a half feet, up to a width of twelve feet. If fourteen to sixteen feet wide, the front should be eight feet high, where a shed roof is provided, and about nine feet with a twenty-foot house. For a width of sixteen feet or over, a combination roof generally is recommended, usually with a seven-foot front and a ridge about nine feet high. In order to insure a dry floor it should be six inches to one foot above the ground level, whether it is of earth or concrete. If a board floor, it should be elevated at least one foot above the ground level, and in damp loca- tions, three feet or more. When the house is built on sloping ground, the site should be leveled, with a ditch on high side, to drain the water off after rains (see Fig. 5.) Squaring the Foundation In squaring the foundation the method shown in Fig. 6 will be found convenient and practical. In using this method three stakes (a, a, a) are driven at each corner, about one foot outside of where the permanent wall is to be located, and about three feet apart, connecting them at the top with strips of board (b, b) about four inches wide, after which a cord should be looped around small nails (c. c), driven into the boards, as indicated in draw- ing. The points at which the cord crosses itself repre- sents approximately the corners of the building. Now, taking one corner as a trial corner, measure from the point where the cords cross (d) to a distance of six feet on one side (e) and eight feet on the other (f). With these two dimensions secured the corner will be exactly square when the distance between the points e and f, measuring diagonally, is just ten feet. If the diag- onal line does not measure exactly ten feet, change the position of the nails holding the cord until the correct measurement is secured. With one corner established in this way, it is an easy matter to square up the others in a similar manner. The corner strips should remain in position until the frame of the building is up, so that no matter how many times the cord may have to be removed for convenience in construction, it will always exactly in- dicate the corners when looped over the nails. Concrete Foundations The foundation of the poultry house should be sub- stantial and well made. Only in the cheapest and most temporary structures is it advisable to build without a foundation, and there seldom is any economy in setting the house on wooden posts. If it is not desirable to pro- vide a solid concrete foundation, at least place the build- ing on concrete posts, which cost but little more than wood and are practically indestructible. ' Where the soil is firm, the simplest and easiest way to build a concrete foundation is to excavate a trench about eight inches wide and deep enough to extend below the frost line, filling in to the ground level with concrete. 1 Sun's rays froi / April 21st to ' Sept. 21st It Dec. 21s FIG. 7— DIRECT SUNLIGHT IN Where the is not firm, the trench should be wider to ad- mit form boards. Wherever practi- cable the trench should slope to the lowest point, from which a line of tile may be laid to provide outlet for any water that may ac- cumulate within or under the foundation walls. In damp locations it is a good plan to lay a line of two-inch tile underneath the foundation, all THE POULTRY HOUSE j »u u MJ- around the buildmg, or to put a few inches of coarse broken stone in the bottom of the ditch, starting the concrete wall on top of this. Where field stones are available, dig the ditch a foot wide and fill it in with stone to a few inches below the ground level, on top of which an eight-inch concrete foundation is to be placed. Under ordinary conditions the foundation should extend six to twelve inches above ground level, being built by the use of form boards spaced about six inches apart. See Fig. 8. Fig. 10 shows an- other method of building the foundation where a wide footing is desired. Where stone is easily secured, foundations of this material may be used at less cost than concrete. Stone walls should be about twelve inches wide, and should be carried down to the frost-line, and underdrained as de- scribed for concrete foundations. If wooden foundations are desired, cedar, locust, ca- talpa, or chestnut posts will be found most desirable. These should be placed at least two to three feet in the ground, and spaced not over eight feet apart. All wooden posts should be treated with creosote to prevent decay. There are few conditions, however, under which it is de- sirable or economical to use wooden posts. If a solid stone or concrete wall is considered too expensive, or if the building is to have a board floor elevated off the ground so that a solid foundation wall is not necessary, it will cost little if any more to provide stone or concrete posts than wooden ones. Where wooden foundations are used with earth floors, it is common practice to provide subsills of 2 by 14 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES Xt°p °f 6 <.r 2 by 8 planks. These are sunk into the ground some- what less than their entire width with the regular sills resting upon them. The purpose of the subsill is to keep the frame sill above the ground,. thus protecting it from decay to some ex- tent, and also pre- venting rats from flMISHlD FL'^Ps obtaining access to /••;<9"/A/5-CF the building. It FORn BOARD serves these pur- poses only imper- fectly at best, how- ever, and in prac- tical use has little to recommend it. FTG. S — CONSTRUCTION OP CON CRETE FOUNDATION Earth Floors Earth floors are vised in many poul- try houses, their chief recommendation being that they are inexpensive. Where earth floors are to be used, the house should have a solid concrete foundation if possible, carrying it up ten to twelve inches above ground level, the space en- closed being filled in nearly to the sill. In order to keep the earth floor dry and warm, there should be a layer of four or five inches of gravel or broken stone at the ground level, with earth filled in on top. Where such floors are used it is necessary to re- move all soiled mateiial at least once a year, and replace it with fresh earth brought in from outside, a laborious and expensive job. Hens confined on earth floors will soon form wallows that may reach to a depth of a foot or more, and it is extremelv difficult to keep the surtace of the floor smooth and even — another objection to this method of floor construction. Clay Floors Where stiff clay is. available, an excellent and inex- pensive floor can be made by filling in between the foun- dation walls with a few inches of broken stone, on top of which is spread a layer of two or three inches of clay. This should be wet down until it becomes pasty, and while in this condition sliould be thoroughly tamped, after which has been in use many years, giving complete sat- isfaction. Concrete Floors For general use no material is as desirable for poul- try-house flpors as concrete. It is indestructible, when properly made, is rat-proof, easy to clean and sanitary, and is. dry and warm when properly insulated. , There are various plans for constructing concrete floors, depending upon the nature of the materials avail- able, but under most conditions the method shown in Fig. 11 will be found satisfactory. Concrete floors should be six to twelve inches above ground level, de- pending upon the nature of the soil. In sandy or gravel- ly locations, six inches may be high enough, but in damp locations or on heavy soils, it is better to have the sur- face of the floor ten or twelve inches above ground level. Concrete floors should always be insulated to avoid dampness. As a rule, a layer of several inches of gravel or broken stone is sufficient. In especially damp loca- tions it is advisable to spread, one -ply, n r~l tarred paper on top '- -POUI.-IKY HOUSE WITH HARD CL.\Y FLOOR TOP OF of the stone or i"y.io" gravel filling, with OUTS/UB the concrete directly on t h i Concrete floors for poultry houses should be about two and one - half inches thick, with an additional half- inch topping of sand and cement. Where cinders are obtainable, they can be used in place of stone or gravel. which it is smoothed off and left to dry undisturbed. When dry, this layer of clay will be very hard, and if protected from moisture and not undermined by, rats, will last for many yea^s without. lenew^l or repairs. The house shown in Fig. 9. is, provided _ with a clay floor laid rORn B°ARD -V FiHisHEb n°°n FIG. 10— CONCRETE FOUNDATION WITH WIDE FOOTING both for the insulating layer and for the concrete base. A concrete floor of cinders is not as strong as when stone is used, but is warmer. Do not use fine ashes from the kitchen stove or the house furnace for this purpose, but the coarse cinders produced at mills and factories generally. In laying concrete floors, always provide expansion cracks by dividing the floor into suitable sections and cutting- through with a trowel or other instrument. A common practice in laying floors is to divide the surface into squares, and lay alternate ones, which are allowed to set before the remaining ones are filled in. Where this is done, the expansion cracks are- automatically taken care of. See Fig. 12. Do not attempt to economize on foundations and floors by skimping in" the thickness of the material or the percentage of cement, thus' securing a surface that will crack and give way in use. Neither is it wise to lay a concrete floor unless a suitable concrete foundation is provided to support the outer edges and to prevent rats from burrowing underneath. Concrete Slab- Floors A simpler method of providing a concrete floor for the poultry house is by the use "of a "concrete slab." The method of constructing this is described by Prof. F. C. Elford, Poultryman for the Dominion of Canada, as follows: "No trenches are dug for the foundations. The floor is laid upon the ground, top of the floor being from 10 to IS inches above, the surrpuadjng lev.el. To form a LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES 15 "slab," take enough boards to reach around the outside of the building. Boards one inch thic-k will do,, and as wide as the height of the floor above-the- surface. Set these boards on edge and stake them in position so that tlie inside of the boards is the exact size of. the house. FIG. 11— CORRECT METHOD OF LAYING CONCRETE FLOOR Concrete floor laid over a few inches of well-tamped broktn stone or grravel and a layer of tarred paper, will be dry and comparatively warm. Note method of anchoring: building to foundation by means of bolts. Level the top edges, and nail a six-inch board lightly to the top edge so that it will project in over the floor. In this six-inch strip bore holes every 6 to 10 feet to take a 5/^-inch bolt. These bolts are for the purpose of holding the sills and should- extend abovfe the finished floor far enough to go through a 2x4 scantling and leave room for a nut. When the heads of these bolts become secured in the concrete, remove the six-inch boards that hold the bolts in position so that the straight edge can be used to level the surface of the floor. "When the frame is leveled and secured, the stone may be filled in. This could have been dumped on the giound before with less trouble except that it might in- terfere with the leveling of the boards. Stone, brick, plaster or anything of a like nature should be used to fill up to about, two inches from the top of the floor. In filling in, there should be sev- eral inches left around the inside of the frame to allow for concrete being placed there to form the outer surface of the wall. Fill in with concrete to the inside (if the frame, and to within .34 or one inch of the finished floor surface. The finishing coat of cement is then put on, leveled with the straight edge to the top of the frame or retaining boards, and smoothed off with a trowel." * Board Floors Board floors' are used by many anil are satisfactory, especially where it is desired to have the floors elevated above the ground level. Board floors should always be elevated above the ground at least enough to allow the air to circu- late underneath, in order tO; insure dry- ness, also to give cats and dogs access to the enclosed space which, otherwise, is certain to become a. rat harbor. It is a decided advantage, in damp locations, to have the main floor raised closed on three sides with regular weatherboarding. .\s be less than three feet high, and preferably five feet, as in the house illustrated on page 52. Where the floor is less the house illustrated on page 52. Where the floor is less than three feet above ground, it is difficult to clean out imderneath, as should always be done at regular inter- vals. It also is quite inconvenient when the hens make their nests under the floor, as they usually insist on doing. For these reasons, if the wooden floor is raised only a short distance from the ground, it is better to enclose the space and keep the hens out. Board floors are liable to be cold and drafty unless carefully laid, and it usually. will be found best to double- board them, as shown in Fig. 14, with a layer of water- proofed building paper between the top and the sub- floor. The latter may consist of the cheapest boards, though large knot holes and decayed spots should be cut out or filled in with sound material, or covered with pieces of sheet iron or tin. It will add to the strength of the building if this sub-floor is laid diagonally. The top floor should always consist of tongue-and-groove boards, driven up tight together and well nailed. Port- able houses should always be provided with double board floors, with diagonal sub-floors which brace the building and prevent its being racked in moving. Framing the Poultry House There are various ways of framing the sills for poul- try houses, the one shown in Fig. 13 being most gener- ally used with board floors. . In such cases the inside sill will be notched to engage corresponding notches in the ends of the joists. A simpler plan, and one that calls for less sawing and is just as good for practical pur- poses, is to use one 2x8 sill, spiking a 2x4 on the inside, along the lower edge. Notch the joists so that they will rest on the 2x4, with the top even with the top of the 2x8 sill. FIG. 12— PROVIDING EXPAN.SK i.\ .lul.MS 1 .\ tii.\( LAYING ALTERNATE SEi'TluNS Photo from Mo. State Poultry Exp. Station :kte floor by several feet. Where this is done, the foundation of the building usually consists of concrete or stone pillars, set jibout eight feet apart, and the space underneath the floor is tightly en- • E.\tract from Bulletin 87, Canadian Dept. bf Agriculture. In houses withf.solid foundations and concrete floors, the sill is of comparatively little importance, and usually consists of a single 2x4, or, in some instances, two 2x4s spiked together. Houses with concrete floors should be anchored, so that they cannot be shifted by the wind. 16 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES For this purpose, half-inch bolts should be set in the foundation wall at intervals of about ten feet. These bolts should be about one foot in length, with washers for both ends. The bolts should be embedded in the con- crete, with the head down, and the threaded end extend- ing three or five inches above the top of the foundation, depending upon whether a single or double sill is to be used. This method of anchoring the sill is indicated in Fig. 11. The joists in board floors should always be bridged by the use of diagonal strips, is shown in Fig. 15. which stiffen the floor and add greatly strength. Various are used FIG. 13 — FRAMING SILLS FOR BOARD FLOOR to its methods in con- structing the frame work. It is possible to frame a building very cheaply, especially where upright boards are used for the walls. Fig. 19 shows a cheap but practical frame, consisting of a single 2x4 sill, single studs at each cor- ner, with wall studs every five to ten feet to support the top plates and girders or stringers, one of which should always be provided midway between sill and rafter plate to stiflfen the walls and prevent warping of the boards used for siding. Under ordinary conditions, a building constructed in this way. with the outside covered with a good grade of prepared roofing, will answer, though it is too light for a permanent building or one of large size. Where tongue-and-grove siding is to be used, the method of framing illustrated in Fig. 16 is commonly employed, the wall studs being spaced two feet from LAYING A DRAFT-PROOF BOARD FLOOR center to center. Doubling studs at corners, doors, and windows, as indicated in illustration, is customary among carpenters, but rarely is necessary in poultry-house fram- ing. The horizontal plate shown in middle of back wall is to support the rear edge of droppings platform. The framing of a house with combination roof does not differ from a shed roof house except in the rafters. One method of framing these is shown in Fig. 17. The plan of supporting the ridge and preventing side- thrust by means of short tie pieces should prove entirely satisfactory with houses not over 16 feet wide, but where the width is 20 feet or over, especially if the house is a long one, the ties should reach substantially from front to rear plate to give strength, or they may be entirely omitted except at partitions, and a girder-and-post sup- port provided instead, as in cross section shown in Fig. 73, page 42. Constructing the Walls For cold climates, also for permanent buildings, it will be found more satisfactory, as a rule, to use tongue- and-groove siding, which makes a tight, fairly draft- proof wall, and in a term of years will cost less for up- keep. Only under extreme conditions need the walls be ceiled. In all cases where a double wall is provided, special attention must be given to making the house rat-proof, as it is practically impossible to dislodge rats after they have once established themselves in such a building. If the house has a concrete foundation, and the first few inches of the walls are filled in with concrete, it will be impossible for the rats to obtain entrance. One method of constructing the walls of a poultry FIG. 15— BRIDGING JOISTS TO .STRENGTHEN FLOOR house is shown in Fig. 18, consisting of tongue-and- groove siding lined with paper, held in place with strips. In lining a new building the paper may be secured with less trouble simply by tacking it to the outside face of the studs before putting on the siding. This construction is practical and satisfactory where fowls do not have ac- cess to the paper. Where this is the case, no matter how carefully it is nailed on, they will soon tear it off. In some sections the poultry-house wall consists of sheathing boards covered with waterproofed building paper, over which shingles are nailed. This is excellent (^onstruction, but rather expensive. (See Fig. 20.1 With most of the buildings illustrated in this book there is no necessity for bracing, except as indicated in special cases. However, where the house is to be ex- posed to severe winds, it is safer to put braces at all corners, and. in the case of long houses, to put in in- terior braces, locating them at partitions, so that they will not be in the way. Different Types of Poultry House Roofs The types of poultry-house roofs in common use are shown in Fig. 23. Choice between them is determined by the width of the building, the use to which it is to be put, and the personal preference of the builder as to appearance, etc. Shed roofs are by far the most com- mon, with gable roofs probably second in popularity. Monitor roofs are seldom used except where there is to be a passageway through the middle of the house with pens on each side. The combination roof is employed mainly on wide houses, the object being to secure suf- ficient pitch with minimum height. The semi-monitor roof provides a means of getting direct sunlight into the rear of the house in combination with a low front. .'\-shaped roofs are in use mainly on small colony houses. (See Fig. 52.) LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES 17 The poultry-house roof must, of course, be water- tight, and should have sufficient pitch to carry off rain promptly. A common mistake made by amateurs is to provide too flat a roof. In such cases it is quite difficult to make the joints entirely watertight without the lav- ish use of roofing cement, and it is better to provide a good slope in order to make certain that there will be no trouble from this cause. Under ordinary conditions shed roofs are cheapest and most practical up to a width of about sixteen feet. Houses sixteen to twenty feet in width can be built with shed roofs, but combination roofs are generally preferred FIG. 16 — A SUBSTANTIAL FRAME FOR SHED- ROOF HOUSE This diagram shows in detail the ordinary method of framing a shed-roof house to be cov- ered with tongue-and-groove siding. The use of double timbers for sills, plates and corner studs Is optional. Reproduced from Ohio State University Extension Bulletin. for wide houses, as they provide sufficient pitch without making the front excessively high. Where a straw loft is to be provided, a gable roof is most satisfactory, giving it approximately one-third pitch. By one-third pitch is meant a roof in which the perpendicular distance, or the "rise" from the top plate to the ridge, is one-third the width of the house. For example, one-third pitch in a building twelve feet wide, would call for a ridge four feet higher than the top plate. Shingles should not be used where the pitch is less than one-third. Metal roofs are seldom used, as they do not last long, are cold in winter and hot in summer, and offer no special advantages. In some sections of the country it is customary to use unsurfaced sheath- ing boards for the roof, but the prac- tice is not truly economical. Prepared roofing will wear better on smooth surfaces; moreover, surfacing reduces the boards practically to uniform thick- ■ ness, which is a distinct advantage. When unsurfaced boards are used there often are sharp corners resulting from joining boards of unequal thick- ness, which will quickly cut through the best of roofing fabric. The sheath- ing should be looked over carefully be- in.ioJn "'- fore the roof is laid, and all sharp cor-^GHouNo -^ ners should be smoothed off with a '-^^^'- block plane if the trouble cannot be -FRAMING HOUSE FOR COMBINA- NATION ROOF Note method of tying front and rear rafters to prevent spreading. In wide buildings many pre- fer to use girders under the ridge, with supporting posts. Reproduced from Ohio State University Extension Bulletin. corrected in any other way. See to it also, that there are no nail heads sticking up, and cover all knot holes and weak places in the boards with pieces of tin. In cold climates it pays to use T & G boards for sheathing, as the open cracks left between the edges of unmatched boards will permit serious waste of heat. The great majority of poultrymen use prepared roofing, and this material is entirely satisfactory for the purpose, if of good grade. It seldom pays to use cheap roofing, especially tarred paper in which the upper or weather side is liable to shrink and draw away from the nails, making a weak place in the roof and causing its rapid deterioration. FIG. 18. — PAPER There are various methods of finish- LINED WALL ing the eaves of the roof, some of which are shown in. Figs. 21, 22, 24 and 34, A common method is to omit the eaves altogether, as in Fig. 22, simply lapping the roof down over the edges all around. This method of construction results in all the roof water running down the sides of the building, which may or may not be ob- jectionable. It is a cheap and easy method and makes PRACTICAL METHOD OF LOW COST CONSTRUCTION. 18 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES the upper part of the building draft-proof but nothing can be said for it from the standpoint of appearance. The method of construction shown m t-'g. 24, in which the rafter is cut off square with the plate— the only eave pro- vided being a four or five-inch projection of the roofing boards— is simple, makes a tight joint all around and looks better than the method shown in Fig. 22. Where a wider eave is desired, the plan shown in I'lg- 21 IS satisfactory and can be secured with the minimum of labor in sawing and fitting the rafters. With this method it is necessary to notch the siding boards to secure a tight joint at the rafters. In some A. shed ro instances, this precaution is omitted and monitor the space between the top plate and the roof boards is left open for ventilation, but this practice IS not to be recommended, as it usually means a cold, drafty house in winter. A convenient way of providing an eave for a water- shed without extending the rafters is by laying a double FIG. 23 FIG. 20— COLONY HOUSE WITH SHINGLED WALLS layer of shingles which project a few inches beyond the side of the building. If the sides of the building are cov- ered with prepared roofing, the upper edge should be lapped over onto the roof sheathing before the shingles are laid, thus making a thoroughly draft-proof joint. No provision has been made for eave troughs- or spouting either in the plans or bills of materials pre- sented in this book. It is highly desirable to provide such, however, especially along the fronts of permanent laying and brooder houses. When this is done the fowls and chicks will have a dry strip outdoors in rainy weather, of which they will make full use. When this provision is neglected, they invariably get badly soaked by the drip. If earth is graded up along the front for any reason, as in the case of a house located on sloping :-DIPFERENT TYPES OF POULTRY HOUSE ROOFS F A =hVi^^i i " '^S"^' °' Stable; D, monitor; E semi- F. A-shaped. Reproduced from Farmers' Bulletin 574 U. S. Department of Agriculture. ground (see Fig. 5), the eave drip will soon wash the filling away, making access to yard doors more difficult from the outside, and may weaken the foundation or floor. Doors and Windows All poultry-house doors should be of ample size for ease in carrying in food, litter, etc., and in cleaning out. If the house consists of more than two pens, the door should be wide enough to admit a wheelbarrow Poultry- house doors, as a rule, may be of simple construction consisting of tongue-and-groove boards nailed perpen- dicularly, with a batten at top and bottom and a cross brace. If hung to swing out, such doors may be made storm-proof with little trouble. See Fig. 26. There are various types of yard doors in use, one of which IS shown in Fig. 25. This door slides up and down, and when properly constructed, will be found very satisfactory. Some will prefer to have these doors hinged to open on the side, and where this is done it will be more convenient, as a rule, to have them open out rather than in. •• Where passageways are provided, it is desirable to be 3ble to operate the yard doors from the passageway by the use of cords and pulleys, in which case the door shoyvn in Fig. 29 will be found satisfactory. This door is hinged at the top and slopes back, so that when released it will drop into place by its own weight. It seldom is possible to arrange tight-fitting sliding doors that will not stick in wet weather. This sloping door, however, may be made fairly tight and can be depended upon to work at all times. While it can be pushed open from the outside It is not at all likely that any animal will do so, as it bears too close a resemblance to a trap. North of the Ohio River, windows are desirable in all types of poultry-house construction and should be prop- erly located and of sufficient size to furnish ample light and ventilation. A simple and satisfactory method of framing the windows is shown in Fig. 28. The bottom of the sill of this window is sixteen inches from the floor line, which is a satisfactory height, and in FIG. 21— RAFTER EXTENDED TO FORM EAVE -A ROOF WITHOUT EAVES FIG. 24— RAFTER CUT FLUSH; EAVE FORMED BY ROOF BOARD LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES 19 "C/eof FIG. 25— SLIDING YARD DOOR This illustration shows position of door, which slides in grooves formed by siding, studs, and one- inch cleats. all cases where practicable, a two-sash window is recom- mended, as shown. There are various methods of plac- ing window sash, but none that are any more convenient or practical than where the upper sash is hinged to the lower so that it can readily be opened for additional ven- tilation. No special framing is required, aside from having two studs on either side of the window and allowing the siding to extend one inch beyond the studs. The lower sash of the window is held tight against at-ud the siding by a weather strip, and the upper sash is held in place by a hook or wooden button. The lower rail of the top sash and the upper rail of the lower sash should be sloped as shown, in order to make a water-tight joint. It pays to provide a substantial sill for all windows. Where a single sash is used, a convenient way to in- stall it is illustrated in Figs. 30 and 32, the latter showing the manner in which the sash is dropped when the window is to be opened. The sill (A) should be high enough above the floor to permit upper sash rail (F) to drop below inside edge of sill. B is a weather strip holding bottom of sash (E) in place when closed, while C holds the top rail. D is the side stud to which strip G is nailed, "-"P the purpose of the latter being to hold sash in place when it is opened. It is not desir- able to have win- dows down too near the floor. If low enough to let the hens see out, it will make them restless when they must be confined. Low win- dows also tempt the hens to huddle in the sunlight in front of the window, thus exposing them to drafts. When warm weather comes in the spring, the win- dows should be re- moved entirely in order to provide ad- ditional ventilation. For this reason the front of the win- dow opening should be covered with 54- inch poultry netting to keep the fowls in and to prevent sparrows from en- Poultry house doors should be hung: tering. If sashes to swing- out and not in. Door illus- ... , trated above closes tight against sill with large panes are and, with drip cap properly installed nrovided the inside over the top, is practically storm- Proviucu, ine insiuc proof. If no casing is used around the of the window also opening, door can be hung flush u u l j with siding. should be covered */nja -DETAIL OP DOOR FRAMING 17" l"xl« St-Hp n 1' X 1' Strip. cleat.s. methoc back »: 7— CON.STRUCTION OF YARD DOOR is built up of 4-inch T & G with edges bound by 1-inch An easier but less attractive is to nail 2-inch cleats across ■ door at top and bottom. with netting in order to avoid breakage, which is liable to result from the fowls flying up against the windows. About one square foot of glass to fifteen square feet of floor space will be found ample for lighting the poul- try house. In cold climates it may be desirable to increase this to one foot in ten. More than this is not advisable un- der any condition. Sufficient light is provided by the proportion of glass just suggested, and anything in excess of this is not only an added source of expense, but is det- rimental, causing irregular temperatures. On bright days the large amount of sunshine admitted makes the pens unnecessarily warm, while at night the heat is radiated rapidly, creating a cold house, and condensing the moist- ure in the building, causing dampness or "sweating." The same objection applies to skylights. Being at the highest part of the room usually, they .allow warm air to escape, and in warm weather make the house hot: also, they almost invariably leak. In the case of houses sixteen feet wide or more, windows in the rear wall under the drop- pings platform are desirable. They light up what otherwise is a comparatively dark section of the floor, and where they are provided the troublesome ten- dency of the litter to work back to the rear of the room is checked. Muslin Shutters and Curtains The use of mus- lin shutters for ven- t i 1 a t i n g poultry houses is now well- nigh universal, and no better method is known. With the east, west, and north walls of air-tight construction, good- sized openings can be provided on the south side, giving the fowls ventila- tion, sunlight, etc.. with complete pro- tection from drafts. These openings are protected by mus- lin shutters or cur- tains, to be closed in stormy weather and at night. Mus- FIG. 28— CONSTRUCTION OF WINDOW Sash closes tight against siding, which overlaps opening one inch all around, making a tight joint and re- ducing cost. Where the sashes come together, bevel the edges to slope out- ward and make water-tight joint, in- stead of leaving them level as shown in illustration. 20 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES PIG. 29 — SELF-CLOSING YARD DOOR lin affords fairly good ventilation in cold weather, though it does not provide for a very rapid exchange of air in warm weather and is practically air-tight when wet. In order to get the best results with curtain-front houses, more or less adjustment of the curtains or shut- ters is required. Muslin retains a ■ great deal of heat when the sun is shining, even when the thermometer is very low, for which reason it sel- dom is necessary to keep the shutters or curtains closed on sunshiny days, even in the coldest weather. In stormy weather or on cold nights, ^ however, there usually will be sufficient air cir- culation with the shutters down, and in such cases there is nothing whatever to be gained by leaving them open. In a properly constructed house there is little danger of fowls being injured by cold, so long as the temperature does not drop down to zero or below. However, the amount of cold that the fowls can stand without injury, or without having the egg yield affected, depends largely upon whether or not they have been properly accustomed to open-front conditions. For the section lying between the Ohio River and the Great Lakes, one square foot of muslin to ten or twelve feet of floor space generally will be found satis- factory for laying houses that are constructed as directed in this book. This is with the understanding that the shutters or curtains will be left open all the time jn warm weather, and when the sun is shining even in winter weather, so long as the temperature does not drop lower than ten to fifteen degrees above zero. In stormy weather or in lower temperatures, the openings must be closed. South of the Ohio River it is safe to omit all sash and increase the proportion of muslin- covered openings to one square foot to eight of floor space. Several different methods of installing fronts have been tried out, but noth- ing is as satisfactory as the use of frames made of 1x3 inch strips, and hinged at the top so that they can be" swung up inside and held out of the way by means of hooks and eyes. These frames, being of rather light con- struction as a rule, should not be too large. 3x4, 4x4 or 4x6 feet are practical sizes. Noth- ing is better for covering than a good grade of heavy unbleached muslin. There is no ad- vantage in using waterproof muslin unless the opening is directly exposed to severe storms. The material used in the waterproofing closes the pores and practically defeats the purpose for which the muslin is used. FIG. 30. ,,,, ^, r 1 ■ . DROP Wnere the top of the openmg is consid- SASH IN erably below the rafter plate, a convenient PLACE way of hanging the shutter so as to have it entirely out of the way when open, is to use side strips long enough to reach to the plate, hing- ing them as shown in Fig. 31. With hinged shutters there usually is no way of ad- justing the size of the opening, the shutter being kept closed or wide open. In a house having several shutters, a degree of adjustment may be secured by leaving some closed, opening only as many as are necessary. One way of making the shutteis adjustable is illustrated in Chap- ter VII, on page 11. In this case the shutter is made in two parts, hinged together so that the upper part may be left open while the lower half is closed. Another method of securing an adjustable shutter is shown in Chapter VI, where the frame is arranged to slide up an/ I Tofi ;°/4*« f To^ o/S/,^t^t Shu ft eh 1 PIG. 31— MUSLIN-COVERED SHUTTER WITH EXTENSION RAILS down, and may be fastened at any desired height by means of a hook screwed into the top, and catching in the netting back of the shutter. The house shown in Fig. 34, one of the buildings on the Poultry Plant at the University of California, provides for an unusual degree of shutter adjustment. Each shutter is made in four narrow vertical sections hinged on the side to swing out. By opening one or more of these, any desired adjustment in ventilation may be secured. In windy weather the sections that open back against the wind can be fastened "in posi- tion to act as windbreaks. All the sections of a shutter are enclosed in a substantial frame which is hinged at the top to swing out. When fastened in the position shown on the right side of illustration, the shutter acts as a sun- shade. This style of shutter is well adapted for use where the summers are hot, or where wide variations in temperature make an unusual degree of adjustment especially de- sirable. Substitutes for Shutters E Where large openings are to have muslin protection, loose curtains are considered more desirable by many. As a rule, these are pro- vided with small metal rings at suitable in- tervals, top and bottom, these rings sliding on wires. With the curtains on the outside of the building, they do not flap much in the wind, but are simply blown back against the wire netting which encloses the opening. These curtains appear to last almost as long as the muslin on inside frames. The house >hown on page 49 is equipped with muslin curtains in the manner just described. One of the objections to the use of muslin shutters and curtains for ventilation is that they require frequent adjustment in changeable weather. Failure to open them on warm days, or to close them promptly when the LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES 21 temperature drops suddenly in win- ter, may lead to more or less serious consequences. As a means of secur- ing ventilation without the necessity for making such adjustment, louvered ventilators (shown in Fig. 35) are recommended by the Missouri State Poulti'y Experiment Station. These ventilator openings are adapted in size to the dimensions of the house. For one having four hundred square feet of floor space and accommodat- ing one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five hens, the Missouri Sta- tion recommends four ventilators each three feet square. The hori- zontal slats are 1x6 inches, set at an angle of forty-five degrees. The dis- tance between each of the slats is one and one-half inches. It is claimed for these shutters that the storm will not beat in, while ventilation is unobstructed at all times. Ir practical use, however, it has been found that snow will sift through un- der some conditions and in exposed loca- tions there is trou- ble from drafts, for which reason the openings sometimes are fitted with mus- lin shutters for win- ter use. As a means of securing the ad- vantages of the Mis- souri shutter with- out the above-noted objections, the Poul- try Department at Cornell University has originated the Cornell Wind Baf- fler, illustrated in Fig. 36. In a house having approximate- ly five hundred square feet of floor space, three of these bafflers are recom- mended, making them three feet deep and cutting the slats 27^4, inches long. Enlarged Cwoss Section g^cure the slats in place by nailing them through the side pieces, using No. S finishing nails. The bafflers, after they are made, are slipped into open- ings between studs suitably spaced and are held in place by a few small nails. The following bill . 33 — CROSS SECTION OF c i t, -n SHUTTER OPENING of lumber will sup- siding to overlap stud one ply material for inch on each side to make a tight *i,"„„ , ,.„j u_ffi„,„ joint around shutter. three wmd bafflers -LAYING HOUSE WITH DIVIDED SHUTTERS Photo from University of California. of the dimensions just noted, which will provide sufficient ventilation for a house 16x30 feet. . 11 pieces, y% inch x 3 inch, 16 feet long. 6 pieces, J^ inch x 1}4 inch, 16 feet long. 1 piece, 9-16 inch x 4 inch, 10 feet long. 1 piece, 9-16 inch x 4 inch, 12 feet long. One serious objection to both the Missouri shutter and the Cornell wind baffler is that neither one admits m.uch light, for which reason it is necessary to provide considerably more window space than is required where n;uslin shutters are used. Rear Wall Ventilators In poultry houses that are equipped with muslin fronts or slatted openings, no other ventilation is required, except in hot weather, when rear ventilators, such as are shown in Fig. 27, page 22, will be found decidedly helpful. These ventilators extend the entire length of the building, close up under the eaves, and in the south may open directly into the room and may be made as much as twelve inches wide. The perches, however, should be far enough below the opening so that the fowls on the roost will not be in a direct draft. In the north this opening is made four to eight inches wide, and the wall and ceiling about the perches should be ceiled as shown. The ceiling boards should be of sound tongue-and-grooved stock and should extend from the underside of the droppings platform up the rear wall and along the rafters to a point twelve to eighteen inches in front of the outer edge of the platform. The ceil- ing must be carried around the rafter plate on short furring strips, reaching diagonally from the rear wall to the rafters, so that there will be no obstruction to the circulation of the air. The outside opening should be provided with doors that can be closed tight in cold weather. These doors may consist of inch boards of suitable width. They should not be over six to eight" feet long, as a rule, as they are liable to warp if too long, and in that condition will not close the opening tightly, which is quite important in cold weather. When glass sashes are provided under the droppings boards, these may be removed in hot weather, adding greatly to the cornfort of the fowls. For cross section of house equipped with rear ventilator, see Fig. 62, page i7, also see Chapter X for detail drawing. Straw Lofts In cold climates, straw lofts are especially desirable and well worth the additional cost of providing them. .\ practical type of straw loft is indicated in Fig. 79. This heavy blanket of straw not only retains warmth. POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 35 — LAYING HOUSE WITH LOUVERED VENTILATOR Photo from Mo. State Poultry Exp. Station. making the house more comfortable in winter, but also makes it cooler in summer. The straw also absorbs moisture and helps to keep the house dry. Where straw lofts are used, louvered ventilator openings should always be provided in the gables, thus permitting the gradual passage of air through the straw and out at the gables. See pages 45 and 46 for plans for a straw-loft house. King Ventilating System In brooder houses and m buildings of special con- struction, where muslin fronts are not desired, the method of ventilation shown in Fig. 38, known as the King Ven- tilating System, will be found practical and satisfactory. In this the air is admitted to the intake near the ground and passes up between the inner and outer walls, where the building has a double wall, or in a specially provided flue in single-walled buildings, and thus enters the build- ing near the ceiling, as indicated by the arrows. A cen- trally located flue, the opening to which is about a foot above the floor, carries the foul air out through a louvered ventilator in the roof. Where this system of ventilation is adopted, the cross section of both intake and outtake should provide about four square inches per adult bird, or WIND SAFFLER 4Hh passes f-hroufh ta/^/«K asj in that proportion. The air circulation is controlled by the adjustable doors at the top of the intake flues, and a door is also provided in the outlet flue near the ceiling, for supplementary ventilation in hot weather. Building Temporary Poultry Houses The labor cost of building poultry houses always amounts to a large part of the total expense, though this fact is often overlooked when the poultryman himself (Ices the work. In fact, the common tendency to place no money ^alue on special work done by the poultryman or his assistant leads to a great deal of wasted efTort. !t is a good plan, therefore, to form the habit of placing a definite valuation on time, either by the day or the hour, systematically charging the same against all work performed. This practice will bring about a very differ- ent estimate of the actual worth of things done and par- ticularly will be found to discourage temporary expe- dients, which invariably cost all out of proportion to their practical value. For example, in planning cheap, temporary buildings or shelters, the poultryman should consider not only the actual cost of materials, but of his labor as well, and also should make a careful estimate of the length of time that FIG. 36 — CORNELL WIND BAFFLER FIG. 37— KEAR VENTILATOR AND WINDOWS . House here illustrated is provided with rear venti- lator extending entire length of building, immediately under eave. Also has singie-sash windows next to floor. This greatlv improves the lighting under droppings plat- form, and with ventilators and windows both open in summer the house will be about as cool as it is possible to make it. Photo from Mo. State- Poultry Exp. Station. they may be expected to last, and the cost of keeping them in repair during that time. If this is done there will be vastly fewer of the makeshift structures that dis- figure so many poultry plants at present. There is no question about the fact that, under average conditions, a well-built, permanent house is cheaper in the long run than the succession of cheaper structures that would be required to answer the same purpose for the same length of time. It is not meant by this to condemn as imprac- tical, all temporary structures for poultry uses. There are many practical conditions under which these are re- (luired; but both sides of the matter should be looked into before making such investments. The poultryman who has decided that a temporary building is needed, should consider carefully the kind and quality of materials that are to be used in it. It is as impractical to use high-grade lumber or heavy roofing on a building that is only expected to last two or three years, as it is to use the inferior material or one-ply roofing on one that is expected to be permanent. In the one case material is wasted, and in the other, labor. In putting up temporary structures, true economy lies in placing a definite estimate upon the period for which they are to last and then selecting the cheapest suitable ma- terial which will give that length of service. LOCATING AND PLANNING POULTRY HOUSES 23 Hardware In the various bills of materials presented, the kind or quality of hardware required is not specified aside from a few details such as hinges, hooks, etc. A few general suggestions on the subject here may prove help- ful to the inexperienced. In setting up ordinary framing timbers 20-penny nails are regularly used, though a few 40-penny spikes come in handy now and then. For nail- ing sheathing boards, T & G siding, and ^^-inch lumber generally, 8-penny nails are used. For rough, unsurfaced boards, which run one inch or over in thickness, it is better to use the 10-penny size. For i^-inch lumber, such as strips for cracks, etc., use 6-penny nails. Shingles are laid with 4-penny nails, galvanized if obtainable. Lathing nails (2-penny) are handy for a variety of uses and a few should always be on hand. Size mentioned above apply to either wire or cut nails, the former being em- ployed almost exclusively, as they are ^cheaper, easier to use. less liable to split the lumber, and more readily ob- tainable. There is little occasion for using casing or finishing nails in poultry-house construction, but when neat work is to be done they will be called for. In making shutter frames, feed hoppers and, in general, wherever thin lum- ber or narrow strips are to be employed, box nails which are of smaller diameter than ordinary nails of the same length, can be used with less danger of splitting the wood. Where they cannot be obtained it sometimes is practicable to use casing nails which also are of smaller diameter then headed nails. For attaching light-weight poultry netting to fences, etc., ordinary netting staples are satisfactory, but if wire heavier than 16 gauge is used it is better to get regular fencing staples. On shutter frames and generally where the lumber is liable to split, double-pointed carpet tacks are much more desirable than netting staples. They hold the netting securely and do not split. For tacking mus- latter have very thin heads and are hard to pull out when making repairs. For fastening doors, windows, etc., screw hooks and eyes are invaluable, and the 2-in. size is most convenient in a majority of cases. For adjusting FIG. 38— KING VENTILATING SYSTEM lin to frames, 4-oz. carpet tacks are heavy enough, but if duck or burlap is used it will be better to employ the 8-oz. size. Cut tacks are preferable to wire tacks as the FIG. 39 — CROSS SECTION OP STRAW LOFT HOUSE swinging windows, various attachments are obtainable, but about the cheapest convenient plan is to use a suit- able length of light, flat-link chain, obtainable at any good hardware store. The various styles of hinges used about poultry buildings include butt hinges, with either tight or loose pins, T-strap hinges, and strap hinges. Butt hinges are employed on all narrow strips, frames, etc. As the screws which fasten these hinges in place are close to- gether and near the edges of the boards, they are quite liable to split out and it is not advisable, therefore, to use them if strap hinges can be employed instead. Loose- pin butt hinges are used only where it is desirable to be able to remove the hinged section without taking out screws, and where the hinges are in a vertical position. Be particular to specify tight-pin butts in hinges to be placed horizontally, as in windows, shutters, etc. For partition doors between pens, it is desirable to use dou- ble-acting hinges. The smaller hardware stores, as a rule, only handle the heavy, expensive Styles used in dwelling houses, but comparatively inexpensive ones are made and can be secured on direct order if the pur- chaser insists upon it. For large outside doors, strap or T-strap hinges are commonly used. If, the door is regularly framed, loose-pin butt hinges (4 to 5-inch size) may be used, but are more trouble to install. A 6 to 8- inch safety hasp usually is preferred to any other form of door fastener. Paint The_ improvement in appearance which results from having well-painted buildings would alone be a sufificient reason for painting all exposed wood work. In addi- tion to this, however, paint adds greatly to the, life of the building, particularly if cheaper grades of lumber are used. Such lumber will deteriorate rapidly if not pro- tected. It is true economy, moreover, to use paint of good quality, mixed with linseed oil, rather than to ap- ply cheap paint which always is composed of distinctly inferior materials. "Cold-water" paints, whitewash, etc., may be used and will add appreciably to the appearance of buildings, fences, etc., but have not the preservative value of good oil paint, and require renewal at more frequent intervals. "Whitewash can be made by slacking about ten pounds of quicklime in a pail with 2 gallons of water, covering the pail with cloth or burlap and allowing it to slake for one hour. Water is then added to bring the 24 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES whitewash to a consistency which may be applied read- ily. A weather-proof whitewash for exterior surfaces may be made as follows: (1) Slake 1 bushel of quicklime in 12 gallons of hot water; (2) dissolve 2 pounds of com- mon salt and 1 pound of sulphate of zinc in 2 gallons of boiling water; pour (2) into (1), then add a gallon of skim milk and mix thoroughly. Whitewash is spread lightly over the surface with a broad brush." * A cheap and fairly satisfactory "paint" can be made by stirring Portland cement into skim milk until the mixture reaches the consistency of thick cream, when it can be applied with an ordinary paint or whitewash brush. It can be made in various tints by adding lamp black, Venetian red, ochre, and various other coloring substances as desired. Tools The poultry keeper usually does more or less of his own carpenter work, as he finds that, with a little experience, he can do satisfactory work, and at much less expense as compared with the cost of having it done by a carpenter. Most persons, however, make the mistake of attempting to do such work with a too-limited assort- ment of tools, or with tools of inferior quality. The poultry keeper cannot afford tij neglect providing a com- plete outfit of tools, and should have a regularly equipped workshop if at all possible. Attempting to do carpenter work without the proper tools, or with tools that are dull, rusty and generally un- fit for use, is not true economy under any condition. To be able to do any kind of construction work ef- ficiently, the following tools will be found practically in- dispensable: ax, hammer, hatchet, set of chisels, from % in. to 1^2 in-, mallet, brace and set of bits, 2 screw drivers, large and small, block plane, jack plane, spirit level, plumb bob, steel square, rip saw, crosscut or hand saw, compass saw, monkey wrench, pliers, oil stone, 2- foot pocket rule, portable iron vise, ^-pt. oil. can, chalk, chalkline, drawknife. In the shop there should be a good-sized carpen- ter's work-bench with a wooden vise, a bicycle grind- stone, and a small geared emery or carborundum stone. In order to be able to take care of the various repair jobs that often are called for about the average home • Extract from Farmers' Bui. 574. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. -SUMMER SHADES FOR OPEN FRONT HOUSES. Photo from Purdue University and poultry plant, a few metal-working tools will be found convenient, particularly a set of drill bits in small sizes: ^-in. and 1-in. cold chisels, metal or tinner's shears, medium-size pipe wrench; small set of S wrenches. The tools when not in use should be kept in a wall cab- inet provided with suitable shelves and hooks. It will aid in observance of the important rule of "a place for every tool and every tool in its place" if the cabinet is provided with glass doors so that if any tool is not in its proper place this fact can hardly escape notice. The foregoing list may appear to be a rather formid- able one, but on the average poultry plant every tool mentioned should pay for itself, in time and money saved, before the end of the first year. Having provided these tools see that they are properly cared for. If care- lessly used, left lying around, or put away while damp, they will deteriorate quickly and soon become compara- tively worthless. . It is true economy to get good tools and then keep them in good condition. This includes keeping all edged tools sharp. Dull tools are strength and time-wasters and usually result in much wasted ma- terial also. The grindstone should be operated by power if possible. If it must be turned by hand or foot it is doubly important to have a geared emery or carborundum stone for use where the ordinary grindstone cuts too- slowly. Plans Given in Other Books In order to present the subject of poultry house con- struction in such a manner as to meet the building re- quirements of the greatest number, it has been found nec- essary to limit the plans illustrated and described, to houses for fowls. Permanent brooder houses being an essential feature of every well-equipped poultry plant, these are fully represented, also a number of plans for portable colony houses which can be used for adult fowls, brooder chicks or growing stock. Those who are especi- ally interested in houses of the latter type, however, also in brooders, brood coops, chick runs, and chick-raising equipment generally, are referred to our books on "Arti- ficial Incubating and Brooding" and "The Chick Book." Plans for houses especially designed for ducks, will be found in our book on "Ducks and Geese." Houses for turkeys are described in "Turkeys. Their Care and Man- agement." See page 112. AN ANNOUNCEMENT .\i an early date, we expect to issue a book on "Poultry Plant Construc- tion," devoted primarily to the re- quirements of large plants. This book will give complete working olans, architect's specifications, bills of material, etc., for modern, down- to-date poultry houses of every kind j-equired on large breeding and com- mercial plants. It will be printed on extra-size pages, which will make it possible to reproduce plans on a scale large enough to biing out clear- ly all necessary details of design and construction. The need for a book of this character is unquestioned, and we anticipate a large demand for it. Announcement of exact date of pub- lication will be given later through the usual channels. CHAPTER II Economical Back Yard Poultry Houses Back Yard Poultry Keeping is Profitable When Well-Managed— Laying Out the Plant so as to Utilize Space to the Best Advantage and Protect Health of Fowls— Complete Plans for Building a Number of Inexpensive Houses — Avoid Makeshift Buildings — Even Low-Cost Houses May Be Made Neat and Attractive. a NDER many conditions the back-yard poultry may be made the basis for the development of an ex- flock can be made an important means of reduc- tensive poultry business that will enable the poultryman ing the high cost of living and may also be util- to drop less profitable or congenial employment and give zed as a source of revenue Where they are given proper care and attention, the number of fowls that can be kept on a small tract of ground is surprisingly large. Extremely intensive methods of poultry raising are not to be recommended for general adoption — especially for large-scale operations, but it is entirely practicable to follow this method on a small scale, and with good success. Where a back yard is available, a good-sized flock can be kept to excellent advantage, and the space pro- vided by the ordinary back yard can frequently be util- ized with more profitable re- sults in poultry keeping than in any other manner involv- ing no greater outlay. Few persons realize how much may be accomplished in the space of an ordinary back yard in the production of eggs and fowls for the home table. In one year, a dozen pullets or young hens, fed largely on scraps from the kitchen, should produce 120 to 180 dozens of egg"-, having a market value of $50.00 or more, at average prices. If desired, it is prac- ticable to go a step farther and, in the space of the aver- age back yard, raise a few broods of chicks that will furnish spring and summer frys and roasting fowls for fall and winter use, thus keeping the table supplied with this delicious and whole- some meat a good part of the year and reducing the butcher's bill to a small frac- tion of what it otherwise would be. Fowls can be kept successfully in quite space, and where it is desirable to do so, the limited average back yard affords sufficient room for a flock large enough to form an important source of additional income through the sale of surplus eggs and fowls to the neighbors, many of whom will be glad of an opportunity to buy these special quality products, and will cheerfully pay an ad- vance over the ordinary market price for them. All the work of caring for such a flock may be done outside of regular work hours and the time will scarcely be missed. There are other ways of deriving an income from the back-yard flock, such as the production of standard-bred, exhibition-quality fowls and the sale of eggs for hatch- ing, also day-old chicks. Not only may substantial sums be realized in this way, but the experience thus gained his entire time to this interesting and comparatively easy work. Many of the most successful breeders of today es- tablished their prize-winning strains and laid the founda- tions for their success within the limits of an ordinary back yard. Remember however, that it is especially im- portant to avoid overcrowding where breeding fowls are kept in close quarters. Laying Out the Back Yard Poultry Plant There are various ways of laying out the back yard to accommodate a small flock of fowls, but one convenient manner of doing this is shown in Fig. 42. Special attention should be called to the fact that the back-yard poultry plant does not necessarily have to be an eyesore. The poul- try house can be built in a neat and attractive manner at only a slight increase in cost over ramshackle con- struction, and when this is done the owner is much more likely to retain his interest in the work. Temporary, inconvenient structures, hastily and care- lessly built, have been re- sponsible for poor results and for loss of interest in thousands of cases where suitable buildings would have encouraged the owner to continue in this most in- teresting and profitable work. A good illustration of neatness in back-yard poultry house construction is given in Fig. 41. It costs a little more to build in this manner than to put up a "shack," but when built such a house should require no repairs for many years and without doubt it adds substantially to the value of the property. Fig. 42 shows how the back yard can not only be util- ized for a flock large enough to supply the family table with eggs and fowls practically the year round, but also to produce a surplus for sale at good prices. This can be done without sacrificing the lawn and without making the back yard unattractive. This plan provides for a poultry house of three pens, each of which will accommodate twenty-five fowls. The amount of yard room allowed is comparatively small, but if the yards are regularly swept and occasionally spaded, they will keep clean and free from odor and, with proper care, the fowls will do as well as on free range. The lawn and the small, separately fenced plot in the rear FIG. 41 — AN ATTRACTIVE BA dK-YARD POULTRY HOUSE Even though only a very limited amount of room is available, it will pay to give the fowls an outdoor run. Above illustration shows how to make a small yard look neat and trim with but little trouble or expense. 26 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES will provide room for raising pullets enough to renew one-half the flock each year. It is planned to utilize the lawn at the side and at the rear of the dwelling for brooding young chicks. If they are not kept here too long, and the brooders are moved at fre- quent intervals, the lawn will not be injured in any manner by such use. When the chicks are large enough to take care of themselves, they are to' be removed to the plot in the rear where small colony houses are pro- vided for them, and where they are to run until the pullets are ready to go into the laying pens in the fall. The cockerels can be kept here. also, until they reach broiler age when, ordinarily, they should be disposed tn — wv tMjuSU i-^^; — TRAP DOOR. WAXEFi - 1 ^.' -■ -Hir • f 1 ■' P 11 \ . r \v : li 'i. : c ::.;=:^ . ■ '^ ._...ii ii 'i t -i 1 "■■ ;"'.' ^ 3 i ''£IU:!^^= ==^^.i' 1 PIG. 43 — FLOOR PLAN OF E FIG. 42 — PRACTICAL METHOD OF LAYING OUT BACK-YARD POULTRY PLANT This sketch shows how to lay out a good-sized back lot where chicks are to be raised, and laying or breeding fowls kept in sufficient numbers to make them a source of income. AA are outdoor brooders: B, the laying- house; C, C. L, outdoor runs for hens; D. S. colony houses; E. yard for growing stock after the young birds no longer need artificial heat; F. F, hedge on each side of the lot. affording windbreak and shade; G, the home garden. LEVATED POULTRY HOUSE of, the amount of ground provided being insufficient for raising large numbers of chicks to full size. As sketched in Fig. 42, there is to be a hedge on both sides of the lawn, and the garden plot is cut oflf from the lawn by a neat screen, to which poultry netting can be fastened if it is desired to make it chicken-tight. The fencing about the poultry yards, of course, will be wire netting, four to six feet high, depending upon the variety of the fowls kept. Fruit trees should be planted in the yards, but probably will not be wanted in the garden. Flower beds can be provided to suit individual taste, and if the plan is carried out as here indicated, the fowls will not interfere in any way with having a most attractive lawn, nor will they make trouble for the neighbors. In this plan the laying house is located at a convenient distance from the dwelling. It should be hidden by grouping shrubs in the rear, or by a grape trellis as shown. The vari- ous features of this back-yard poul- try plant are indicated by letter as follows: AA are outdoor brooders; B, the laying house; C, outdoor runs for hens: D, colony houses; E, yard for growing stock after the young birds no longer need artificial heat in the lirooders; F. hedge on each side of the lot, affording windbreak and shade: G, the kitchen garden. Many town and city poultry keep- ers do not have a lot large enough for a poultry plant of even the mod- est dimensions here shown, and must modify their lay-out accordingly. Some may even be reduced to the necessity of using no more space than is occupied by the house and yard illustrated in Fig. 41. and still may find both pleasure and profit in a well-managed flock. On the lot just ECONOMICAL BACK YARD POULTRY HOUSES 27 PIG. 44— SMALL ELEVATED POULTRY HOUSE. referred to, no chicks at all can be raised, but a good- sized laying flock is maintained by purchasing early hatched pullets in October, or by November 1st at the outside, and feeding heavily for eggs until production be- gins to drop off in the summer. Then the layers aie killed for table use, and a new flock purchased in the fall. The plot of ground here utilized probably is not over 12 to 15 feet square but, as here utilized, will accommo- date a flock large enough to supply all the eggs that will be iLsed by an average family and enough more to pay the cost of all feed purchased. ELEVATED POULTRY HOUSE A Low-Cost House With Sheltered Exercising Room Underneath Affords Corriort for the Fowls All the Year. Where a small flock only is to be kept, simply to supply the home table with fresh, high-quality eggs and possibly a few young fowls for spring and summer frys, the house shown in perspective in Fig. 5 will be found convenient and economical to build. This house stands three feet above the ground, with the space under- neath closed on three sides, afford- ing a scratching pen for the hens at practically no additional cost. The space is reached from the floor above by an incline at the back. In order to make this house warm and free from drafts the floor should be doubled, the sub-floor consisting nf sheathing boards laid 'diagonally, then covered with good, waterproof building paper, and tongue - and- groove flooring laid over this. This house is to be built with plain boards nailed perpendicular and cov- ered with prepared roofing. The perches are along the west end. as- suming that the windows and open- ings face the south, as will usually be found most satisfactory. Ventilation is secured by providing a muslin-covered opening, also two small openings in the gable, which should be closed in the winter-time by tacking a heavy piece of cloth V over them, but left open in the sum- j-jq mer to make the house cooler and more comfortable. An entrance for the fowls may be provided in the front, if desired, but the rear trap door should always be avail- able for the use in stormy weather, when the fowls will remain below indefinitely rather than use an outside entrance. Fig. 43 gives a floor plan of this house, Fig. 45 gives a sectional view lengthwise, and Fig. 44 shows a general view. While the dimensions can be varied to suit in- dividual needs, the house as planned is 8x12 feet on three- foot posts. The walls are five feet high and the ridge is eight feet. It will accommodate twenty to twenty-five fowls, or even thirty in a pinch. The following bill of materials will be found sufficient to construct it: BILL OF MATERIALS FOR BACK Y-4RD POULTRY HOUSE Size L'grth No. of Bd. Use j„^h. Feet Pieces Meas. Remarks Sills 2x6 12 2 24 Sills 2x6 8 2 16 Joists 2x6 8 4 32 Joists 2x4 8 15 Studs 2x4 10 5 33 1 piece cuts 2. Plates 2x4 12 3 24 Plates 2x4 8 4 21 Support for drop- pings platform.... 2x4 8 1 5 ' Window sills 2x4 8 1 5. Surfaced and milled. Perches 2x4 8 2 11 Surfaced, upper corners rounded. Rafters 2x4 10 7 47 1 piece cuts 2. Sheathing boards...lxlO 640 Matched flooring.. ..1x4 .... .. 175 3M squares prepared roofing. 100 s. f. sheathing paper for floor. 2 plain rail window sashes, H4-in., 6-light, 10xl2-in. glass. 20 s. f. of 1-inch inesh poultry netting. 101/2 s. f. of muslin. 8 4-inch locust or cedar posts, 5V2 ft. long. 1 pair S-in. T-strap hinges. 1 door latch. 3 pairs 2-inch butt hinges. 1 chain sash adjuster. 2 2-inch hooks and eyes. Nails, paint, etc. With a little more expense, the house can be built with tongue-and-groove siding nailed horizontally. Trimmed neatly and given a couple of coats of paint, it may be made very attractive in appearance and will last a life- time. -LENGTHWISE SECTION OF ELEVATED HOUSE 28 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES HOUSE FOR ADULT FOWLS OR BANTAMS A Practical House for Small Back- Yard Flocks. Has Muslin Ventilation, and Well-Protected Perches. , Just Right for a Pen of Bantams. By E. L,. POTTER The drawings at the foot of this page illustrate a convenient and practical house suitable for a small back- yard flock of eight to ten fowls. This house will prove especially convenient for a bantam flock, though it may be used for large fowls with entirely satisfactory results. The curtains in front of the perches should be omitted, as they are of little use except in extremely cold sec- tions of the country or for fowls having extra-large combs. If this house is used as a colony house, it will accommodate twelve to fifteen Leghorns, about twelve fowls of larger breeds, or twenty bantams. It may be built for a small sum, depending somewhat upon the locality and the price of lumber. In our climate this house has proved warm enough, but in cooler climates I would advise the use of thin sheathing or ceiling, nailed on over a tar-paper lining, or the house may be covered on the outside with roofing material, placing the strips on up and down and using bands on the seam.s, or simply cementing the edges and nailing it on in the usual way. Following is the com- plete bill of materials required for building this house: 13 pieces of either 2x3-inch or 2x2-inch spruce for tlie sills, joists, corner posts and intergirts, also rafters. 3 pieces, IVaxl-incli furring, 14 feet long, for frame of screens and supports for nest bases and roosts. 1 piece, 2-inchx3-inch furring, 14 feet long, for perches. 350 feet of tongue-and-groove flooring, either pine or spruce. 4 pounds of 8d wire nails. 221/2 feet of one-ply prepared roofing. 1 gallon of paint. 2 .sashes (6-in. x 8-in. lights), 2 ft. 6 in. x 2 ft. 6 in. 110 feet of 2-inch mesh poultry netting if yard is to be covered on top, or in case of only a fence, 94 feet will be enough. 2 pounds of staples. 4 pieces, 3-inch x 1-inch furring, 12 feet long, for top of yard posts. 6 pieces, 3-inch x 8-inch cedar posts. 2 pieces, 3-inch x 1-inch furring, 13 feet long, for gate. 2 6-inch x 1-inch spruce boards, 12 feet long, for bot- tom of wire. 2 G-inch x 1-inch bo- rds, 18 feet long, for bottom of wire. The muslin screens in the upper part of the front are movable and should preferably be hung from the top on hinges, so that they can be hooked up out of the way when not in use. In this house the windows should be hinged at the bottom so that they can be dropped in [G. 46— CROSS SECTION OF HOUSE FOR 20 FOWLS Reproduced from Ohio State University Extension Bulletin. from the top for additional ventilation and during warm weather should be entirely removed. In a house as narrow as this it is diflficult to use muslin shutters without exposing the fowls to direct drafts when on the perches, and for this reason it would seem that the perch curtain should not be omitted. A practical method of protecting the fowls from drafts un- der such conditions is to fasten the curtain in the posi- tion shown in the diagram, so that it will act as a screen. Flcok Pun ScHLE-'i'-l PtAf/s Of PoUlTHY Mouse ffiWi^J OeTAiLsOrCAre ■scalC f-f DerAiLS ScM.t{-"^i' FIG. 47— COMPLETE PLANS FOR BUILDING SMALL HOUSE FOR LAYERS OR BANTAMS ECONOMICAL BACK YARD POULTRY HOUSES 29 without confining the fowls or seriously restricting ven- tilation. For numerous plans for small, portable houses which also are adapted to the requirements of back-yard poul- try keepers, see Chapter VI. FLOOR PLAN OF HOUSE FOR 20 FOWLS A HOUSE FOR TWENTY FOWLS * An Attractive House for Small Back-Yard Flocks. Prac- tical and Complete in Every Important Detail. The house shown in Figs. 46, 48 and 49 has been de- signed especially to satisfy the needs of the poultryman who Joy^ ^^^^ CEMCINT FLOOR. . CRAVE. L OR BP^OKEH &TONE.. ^^*- CtntNT FOUNDATIOM ^ This is a good type of partition to use when the laying house is to be divided into two or more pens. It protects the fowls from drafts, both on the perches and on the floor, but allows free circulation of air through the house. Note that the foundation is carried up above the ground level and the cement floor is thus making it warm and dry. Floor is two inches below the top of foundation and the corners are rounded to prevent filth collecting at this point. back of the building, but a space is left between it and the side walls to give access to the nests, which are reached by doors opening out into this space. There are four nests, two on each side, and the hens enter them from the back, under the droppings board. The upper part of the front is enclosed only with poultry netting to be covered in winter with muslin or cheese cloth, where winters are extremely cold, or for more complete pro- tection of valuable breeding fowls with extra-large combs. As here illustrated this house is to be built in sec- tions, held together by means of hinges and hooks as shown in detail drawing in upper right-hand corner. Un- less the building is to be moved long distances, however, it will be stronger and more durable if firmly nailed to- gether in the usual way. There was enough waste allowed to build the drop- pings board, the nests, etc., and the cost of material at the time this house was built was $13.00. The cost of 32 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES rffOA/T ELEVAT/ON FIG. 54— FRONT OF INEXPENSIVE HOUSE FOR BACK-YARD FLOCK Reproduced from blue print furnished by Poultry Div. of U. S. Department of Agriculture. hardware was about $6.00, making a total cost for my colony house about $20.00. At war-time prices of lum- ber and hardware this house could not be built for that sum, but it should be possible for any one to approxi- mate it under fairly normal conditions. The materials required for a colony house like the one I have illustrated are as follows; 325 Sq. Ft. matched flooring:. Three 2x4's, 16 ft. long. Pour 2x2's, 8 ft. long. Sixteen lx4's, IC ft. long. 6 sq. ft. %-inch wire netting. 8 pair of hinges. 4 hooks and scre%v eyes. 10 lbs. of nails. 8 ft. galvanized iron ridge. 1 lock. 3 sashes glazed. Editor's Note: There are a number of good points about this house that commend it to the back-yard poul- try keeper. One of particular features aimed at by Mr. Holmes was to make the house attractive in appearance, but inconspicuous. In this he has been quite successful, producing a house that is not only neat and trim, but also low so that it may readily be hidden by shrubs or vines if desired. One good feature of A-shaped houses in general is that, in proportion to the floor space provided, they in- close a smaller number of cubic feet of air space than houses with any other style of roof affording comfortable headroom. This means that less material is required to FA^D ELEVATION -END ELEVATION OF HOUSE FOR BACK- YARD FLOCK build them, also that they will be warmer in winter, other conditions being equal. Incidentally, this makes A-shaped houses particularly desirable for brooding young chicks early in the season when ordinary lamp-heated hovers make little impression on the general room tem- perature of larger buildings. There are some diflficulties that are peculiar to A- shaped houses, such as weak frames, difficulty in locating perches, nests, etc., but Mr. Holmes has taken care of them very ingeniously. A few additional suggestions, however, may be helpful to other builders. The plans shown in Fig. 52 do not indicate the ex- act height of the house and we would suggest that the roof boards be cut long enough so that the ridge will be fully 7 feet from the floor (JYi feet is better still) in order to give sufficient headroom for the attendant. The low sides of the A-shaped house will not be particularly inconvenient if the ridge is high enough. The front is always the weakest place in these houses and particular attention should be paid to its construc- tion. The pieces that form the frame of the door should be spiked securely to the floor, and the tops securely tied together by a short piece of board. It is a misfortune ^ < PICRS - I I OIK.T flOOD I I SECTION THRU HOUSE FIG, CROSS SECTION OF INEXPENSIVE HOUSE FOR BACK-YARD FLOCK. Reproduced from blue print furnished by Poultry Div. of U. S. Dept. of Agriculture to have to locate nests on or close to the floor, thus occupying valuable space, as has been done in this plan, though it is true that there are important difficulties in the way of placing them higher up. One method of sav- ing floor space often employed is to put them entirely on the outside of the house. An additional advantage of outside nests is that the eggs then can be gathered with- out entering the house. If this plan is adopted, the work must be carefully done to insure that the nests will be storm-proof. In this house our preference would be to locate them in the rear, with suitable openings for the entrance of the fowls, under the droppings platform. Outside nests should always be fastened in place with hooks so that they may be easily removed for cleaning. No matter how much of the front of A-shaped houses is left open there is little movement of the air in the back part in warm weather, for which reason they are liable to be uncomfortably hot at this season. This dif- ficulty may be overcome by providing a small door or window in the rear: An opening 12 to 18 inches square close up to the ridge, to be kept tightly closed in win- ter but open in warm weather, will add greatly to the comfort of the fowls. ECONOMICAL BACK YARD POULTRY HOUSES 33 INEXPENSIVE BACK YARD POULTRY HOUSE This House is Especially Planned to Secure Low Cost. Is About As Inexpensive As it is Worth While to Try to BuUd. A plan for a small house that can be built about as cheaply as it is worth while to build at all, is shown in Figs. 54 to 57. This house was designed by the Poultry Division, U. S. Department of Agriculture. It is 8x8 feet and will comfortably accommodate 10 to IS fowls, or even 20 with a little crowding. Such a house, prop- erly constructed of good materials, will be servicable for many years with little cost for repairs. 8- o' T"! Dfi OPPI N 6 B OARD DIRT FL OO/i [ir^^j^^Mf^Afjmvjf*,^^^^*'^-*'^^'*'''^''''-'^^^''-'-''^^'-' o ^LOOR PLAN FIG. -FLOOR PLAN OF INEXPENSIVE HOUSE FOR BACK-YARD FLOCK Reproduced from blue print furnished by Poultry Div. of U. S. Department of Agriculture The average person will find it desirable to make both front and back six inches to one foot higher than as shown in plan, and if the house is intended to be portable it will be much better to put in a board floor. If to be used in a damp location a board or concrete floor is a necessity. Where the 2 inch strips used in covering the cracks are expensive or hard to get, as is often the case, it is better to omit them and cover the walls on the outside with a good grade of prepared roofing. In cold climates it will pay to provide one six-light glass sash in the front or at one end, to light the house on dark days or when the muslin shutter must be left closed on ac- count of severe cold. The only really esential fixtures for this house are perches, droppings board, and nests. It will pay, how- ever, to provide a feeding platform also, where the water vessel, dry mash, grit and shell hoppers may be located. The width and length of this platform will depend upon the dimension of the vessels or hoppers used, but should be roomy enough to give the fowls convenient access to them. It should be about two feet above the floor so that there will be scratching room underneath and so that litter will not be thrown into the vessels. Those who have not tried elevating the water and food hold- ers can hardly realize how much time and trouble is saved by so doing. BIL.I. OK MATBRIALS The following list includes everything needed to build this house as here described; 8 brick, stone, or concrete block piers, or solid concrete foundation. 4 pieces 2 in. x 4 in. 8 ft. long, for sills. 3 pieces 2 in. x 4 in. 10 ft. long, for corner studs and msla. 5 pieces 2 in. x 4 in. IrO ft. long, for rafters. 5 pieces 2 in. x 3 in. 8 ft. long, for perches, drop board, supports, etc. 275 feet. bd. meas. % in. x 12 in. boards, surfaced 2 sides, for walls, sheathing and nests. 25 feet bd. meas. % in. x 4 in. flooring boards, for drop- pings platform. IGO lin. ft. V4 in. X 2 in. strips for cracks. 75 sq. ft. prepared roofing. ISO sq. ft. •'Si -in. mesh poultry netting, for windows. 1 pr. T-strap hinges, for outside door. 1 S inch hasp. v 1 pr. 2Vb-inch butt hinges, for muslin shutter. 1 pr. 4-inch .-trap hinges, for perch support. 1 pr. 6-inch strap hinges, for ventilator. 12 2-inch hooks and eyes. Nails, tacks, staples, paint, etc. About the cheapest and simplest nests that can be installed are made of orange bo.xes as illustrated in Chap- ter X, but a better way is to build the nests substantially, of good smooth lumber, and place them under the drop- pings board (see Figs. 116 and 120), where they -will occupy no floor space, will keep clean, and will afford a degree of much-desired seclusion for the layers. Preventing Drafts in Small Houses Back-yard poultry keepers often find difficulty in protecting fowls on the roost from drafts or air currents in cold, stormy weather, particularly when the wind is blowing more or less directly against the front. This is due to the fact that their houses usually are small and narrow, and the fowls consequently are close to the win- dows or other openings. This is one reason why it is cus- tomary to keep the shutters or curtains closed in much milder weather than is necessary or desirable in houses of standard depth — that is, 16 feet wide or over. Houses of this type are greatly improved for winter use by the provision of some means of adjusting the size of the open front to meet varying weather conditions. The muslin-covered shutters commonly employed admit of no adjustment, but must either be left wide open or closed tight. One method of providing for this adjust- ment is to make the shutter in two sections as shown on page n, so that the upper section may be opened while the lower one remains closed, or both may be opened together when desired. Another way is to arrange the shutter to slide up and down on the outside, working in grooves on each side of the opening, as provided in the house front illustrated in Fig. 125, on page 68. This shut- ter can be adjusted to give an opening of any desired size, being held in place by a hook which engages the wire netting back of the shutter. Whatever method of ventilation is adopted, if it per- mits air currents to follow down the rafters and strike directly upon the fowls on the perches, a screen should be provided. This may take the form of a stationary shutter in front of the perches, or it may be hinged at the top to hook up out of the way when not needed. Fre- quently it is more convenient to provide a curtain at- tached to a pole, to be allowed to hang straight down from the ceiling when in use, and rolled up and fastened to the rafters when not needed. Light-weight burlap is the best material to use for this purpose, as it will prevent drafts without restrict- ing ventilation to a marked extent. The purpose of this screen is not to keep the fowls warm, but merely to pro- tect them from drafts, and for this reason it should not extend lower than about the level of the front perch, and should be employed only when actually needed. CHAPTER III Houses for Commercial Laying Flocks Advantages of Curtain-Front and Open-Front Houses for Laying Flocks— Muslin Curtains the Best Known Means of Securing Good Ventilation Without Di^colTlfort to Fowls— Plans for Building Single Compartment Houses at Moderate Cost — Suggestions for Special Low-Cost Construction. o HE type of hoi'se commonly described by the term "open-front" is generally conceded to be best suited to the requirements of the laying flock and is now used, almost exclusively, by practical poul- try keepers in all parts of the world, from the tropics to the far north. When properly designed and constructed, such houses are dry and comfortable, affording the great- est degiee of warmth that can be secured without re- stricting ventilation to an injurious extent. Ventilation may readily and quickly be adjusted to meet changing weather conditions, and the houses are simple and com- paratively inexpensive in construction. The term "open-front," in common usage, is applied indiscriminately to all houses having extensive openings in the front wall, whether provided with muslin shutters or curtains, or protected simply by means of wire net- ting. The great majority of these houses, however, have muslin cur- tains or shutters for additional pro- tection in severe cold or storms, and it will be less confusing to speak of such as "curtain-front" houses, re- serving "open-front" for the type of house having no such protection. curtains hooked up and doors between sheds and pens open. When it begins to freeze at night, close the cur- tains in front of the sheds, but still leave doors between pens and sheds open. These doors (including slide door), are never closed excepting on nights of severe cold, say five to twenty degrees above zero; for zero nights close all doors and windows, also the curtains in front of roosts. To keep the fowls enclosed when the curtains are raised, cover the front of shed with wire netting. The doors from sheds to pens swing into the pens and are, of course, out of the way of the curtains." The Maine Station House While conditions in scratching-shed houses were greatly improved as compared with those of the closed- front type, poultrymen were not long in discovering that The Scratching Shed House The curtain-front house was devel- oped as the direct result of efforts to find some means of overcoming the serious objections to the old-style, warm, glass-front houses, to which reference is made on page 5. Dur- ing the transition period a type pj^ known as the scratching-shed house attained some measure of popularity. chiefly in New England States. It had some advantages over the older type, but it was soon replaced by the cur- tain-front house. One of the best of these houses is illustrated in Fig. 58, and is thus described by the de- signer, the veteran A. F. Hunter: "The plans here given are for a continuous poultry house with alternating pens and sheds, the sheds having curtained fronts and all the space within the house being utilized by the fowls. Each combined pen and shed is 18 by 10 feet, the shed being 10 by 10 feet and the closed roosting pen being 8 by 10 feet, affording room sufficient for 25 fowls of the American or 30 of the Mediterranean varieties. No walk is required, because the walk is through gates and doors, from shed to pen and pen to shed, and so on to the end of the house. "The ventilation (so much desired) is varied, and can be adapted to the different seasons in half-a-dozen dif- ferent ways. In summer the doors and windows are all wide open and the curtains are hooked up against the roof out of the way. (It is understood that the doors be- tween two pens are never left open; they are always kept closed except when opened for the attendant to pass through.) When the nights begin to be real frosty in the fall, close the windows in front of pens, but leave shed /= t NEW ENGL.'iND SCRATL'HI.XG SHED HOUSE— FORE-RUNNER OF THE MODERN CURT.\IN-FRONT HOUSE the close, poorly ventilated roosting room had little prac- ' tical value and in use proved to be only an added compli- cation as well as a needless expense. From this it was only a short step to the general type of house now in common use. No single individual can lay claim to having given the poultry world the open-front or curtain-front hoase. However, one of the first houses of this type was built at the Maine Experiment Station, and it served for years as a model for others in all parts of the country. This house is illustrated in Fig. 59. The following descrip- tion of it is condensed from a Maine Station Bulletin: "This building was erected in 1903 and is 14 feet wide and 150 feet long. The back wall is 5 feet 6 inches high from floor to top of plate inside, and the front wall is 6 feet 9 inches high. The roof is of unequal span, the ridge being 4 feet from the front wall. The height of the ridge above the floor is 9 feet. The sills are 4 by 6 inches and rest on a rough stone wall laid on the surface of the ground. A central sill gives support to the floor, which at times is quite heavily loaded with sand. The floor timbers are 2 by 8 inches and are placed two feet apart. The floor is two thicknesses of hemlock boards. All of the rest of the fratne is of 2 by 4-inch stuff. The building HOUSES FOR COMMERCIAL LAYIXG FLOCKS 35 is boarded, papered and shingled on roof and walls. The rear wall and four feet of the lower part of the rear roof are ceiled on the inside of the studding and plates, and are packed, very hard, with dry sawdust. In order to make the sawdust packing continuous between the wall and roof, the wall ceiling is carried up to within six inches of the plate, then follows up inclining pieces of studding to the rafters. The short pieces of studding are nailed to the studs or rafters. By this arrangement there are no slack places around the plate to admit cold air. The end walls are packed in the same way. The house is divided by close board partitions into seven 20-foot sections, and one 10-foot section is reserved at the lower end for a feed storage room. "Each of the 20-foot sections has two 12-light out- side windows screwed onto the front, and the space be- tween the windows, which is eight feet long and three feet wide, down from the plate, is covered during rough winter storms and cold nights by a light frame, covered with 10-ounce duck, closely tacked on. This door, or cur- tain, is hinged at top and swings in and up to the roof when open." -After giving the house a thorough and severe win- ter's test, Prof. Gowell, who was in charge of the Poultry Department at the Maine Station at that time, wrote re- garding it as follows: "I wish I had delayed writing the bulletin till now. tor we have just gotten through the coldest weather ever known in this section and the cloth-front house has proved itself equal to the demands made upon it. The 300 pullets were not put jn * * * until December 6th, but by the end of that month they had gotten under way and increased every week regularly in egg production all through January and February, and have laid from 160 to 180 eggs every day this month. They came down from the perches and engaged in digging a breakfast out of the straw litter in a way that showed that life was worth living. Every head was blood red. There has not been even a snuffle heard or seen in that house." The above description was written a good many years ago, but, in the main, it fairly represents the exper- ience of poultrymen generally with the curtain-front house, other conditions being equal. It should be noted in this connection, however, that while in this particular house 10-ounce duck was used for the shutters, poultry keepers generally consider a good grade of unbleached muslin amply heavy for the purpose. CURTAIN FRONT LAYING HOUSE FOR 100 FOWLS A Practical House for Commercial or Farm Flocks. Is Well Ventilated, Convenient and Comfortable for the Fowls. There is no room for argument over the statement that hens will give better average production when housed in comparatively small flocks. The experience of practical poultry keepers, however, is that the saving in labor which results from keeping hens in large flocks more than offsets the decreased production resulting from this practice. The point at which lower labor cost is met and overbalanced by decrease in production has never been clearly determined, but the general practice among egg producers is to keep fowls of the large breeds, such as Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, etc., in flocks of about 100. On large commercial egg farms, where Leghorns are kept, this number often is greatly exceeded, flocks of 500 being common. To provide sufficient room for 100 hens there should be about 400 square feet of floor space. This require- ment is approximately met by the house here illustrated and described, which is 16x24 feet. In its general out- lines it meets the requirements of the average poultry keeper to an unusual degree. For houses of moderate size, a width of sixteen feet is almost invariably preferred, and there are sound practical reasons for doing so. A house much narrower than sixteen feet brings the perches too close to the front, and the hens on the perches are exposed to direct currents of air when the curtains are open. Narrow houses cost more to build than those of medium width and are more difficult to care for. On the other hand, extremely wide houses call for heavier fram- ing timbers and more bracing. In long compartment houses a width greater than sixteen feet often is consid- ered desirable, but it is of no advantage in single-pen houses. Even for use on commercial farms where ex- tremely large flocks are the rule, there are many who pre- fer buildings nof over sixteen feet in width. The gen- eral plans, with all needed dimensions, etc., are shown in Figs. 60, 61. 62 and 6.3. The details of lighting and ventilation in this house are planned to meet the requirements of cold climates, but these can readily be mcjdified to suit a wide range of climatic conditions. Where extreme cold is to be ex- pected, it will be found desirable to reduce the size of the curtains and increase somewhat the amount of glass pro- vided. In warmer climates glass windows will be omitted iS ! If^l ISJllSiilSIl ||;i!i|ll!||!il||l||S||| ill 111 Hi lilt ''i ■■^■■!n""i"'iff"s" FIG. 59 — THE HISTORICAL M.^INE STATION CURTAIN- FRONT HOUSE The curtain-front house shown in above illustration was one of the first houses of this type to be built. It has been in successful use at the Maine Experiment Station for many years. Note raised platform in front of the build- ing, which takes the place of an inside passageway. 36 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES and the curtains made larger, possibly substituting frame- less folding curtains, as shown in Fig. 89. in place of hinged shutters. In the extreme* south the curtains also may be dispensed with and the entire front left open. The estimated capacity of 100 hens is based on a ft ^ -^ - - ^_ =__ — — — — ■ _ t — : = — - = = = ^ E E — : - -J ^^^ ~ - - ^ C P 1 1 r-^i^=^=4^ [. FIG. 60— FRONT ELEVATION OF CURTAIN-FRONT HOUSE FOR 100 HENS floor allowance of four square feet per hen. When Leg- horns are kept, and in mild climates where the fowls seldom need to be confined to the house, this number may be increased 25 per cent or more. Most of the details of construction in this plan, such as building up foundation and floor, window and door 2x4-inch stringers, front and rear. The platform is sup- If milled sills for the windows and curtains can not readily be secured, they may be made of ordinary 2x5 or 2x6-inch lumber, setting them to slope outward. Do not use one-inch material here, as is often done. Such sills soon warp and split and must be replaced in a short time if the building is to be kept in good repair. It is a common error, es- pecially among beginners and those who are doing their own carpenter work, to try to effect petty economies or to do careless, hasty work in con- nection with these minor details, re- sulting in defective construction which allows deterioration to set in almost as soon as the building is completed. Like a chain, the poultry house is no stronger than its weakest point, and whether the annual depre- ciation on it is to be ten per cent, five per cent often depends upon whether such details as the window sills, for example, have received proper attention. The boards for the droppings platform are cut to run the short way of the platform and are nailed securely to framing, rafter cutting, etc., will be found fully illustrated and described in Chapter I, pages 13 to 24, which the builder is urged to read carefully before undertaking the construction of any poultry house, small or large. A concrete foundation and floor are recommended, as they undoubtedly are most economical in the long run. No special skill is required in doing concrete work, and where the sand and gravel or stone are readily obtain- able, it is comparatively inexpensive. Even where pro- fessional labor is employed, or the work regularly con- tracted for, the cost will be repaid in a few years in the saving of labor which will be effected in the daily care of the building, and in the much lower rate of depre- ciation. As here planned, this house is framed with single sills and rafter plates; studs and raft- ers are two feet on centers, and the walls are covered with a good grade of six-inch tongue-and-groove siding. The roof is sheathed with ordinary roofing boards, which should be sur- faced on both sides, if such are ob- tainable without too great additional cost. They may be of No. 2 grade or No. 2 common, as they are to be covered with fairly heavy prepared roofing. No lining or ceiling is pro- vided except about the perches. Whether to use tongue-and-groove siding, or rough boards to be covered with prepared roofing, is largely a matter of individual preference or necessity. Where rough boards are used, they generally are nailed on up and down, omitting most of the wall studs, as shown on page 17. The omission of studs and the use of cheap siding that could not be util- ized without an outside covering, may effect an important saving in cost. If regular grades of lumber are to be bought, however, it will be found that boards covered with roofing will cost more than T & G siding and a house so constructed will depreciate more rapidly, be- sides being unsightly at all times. ported in front on 2x4 posts spaced about eight feet apart. These platforms sometimes are made in movable sections so that they can be taken out for cleaning and disinfect- ing. The advantage of being able to do this is more theoretical than actual, however, and the boards ordinar- ily are nailed. In fastening them in place, do not drive them up tight together, but leave room for them to swell, as they are certain to do when the house is in use. Where this precaution is neglected the platform will buckle and pull many of the boards loose, necessitating repairs in a short time. The construction of perches, nests, etc., will readily be understood from the plans shown herewith, but are illustrated and described in detail in Chapter X. If plat- form nests are preferred instead of wall nests, directions FIG. 61 — FLOOR PLAN OF CURTAIN-FRONT HOUSE FOR 100 HENS for building them will also be found in that chapter, like- wise directions for building trap-nests, and bill of ma-' terials needed. Hinged yard doors may be substituted for sliding doors if preferred, hinging them to swing out rather than in, as a rule. The bill of materials given includes everything nee- HOUSES FOR COMMERCIAL LAYING FLOCKS 37 essary to build this house, with a reasonable allowance for shrinkage in the lumber estimates. On the average place, however, there are always a number of uses for good lumber when it is at hand, and it usually happens that boards are taken for various purposes not contemplated in the original plan. It is advisable, therefore, to add a little to net estimates to meet these requirements. Materials for the concrete foundation and floor are estimated on the basis of a six-inch wall, two and one-half feet from bottom to top. The floor is to be three inches thick, with a four-inch layer of insulating material. BILL OF MATERIALS FOR HOUSE FOR 100 HENS Use Sfz One piece cuts One piece cuts Cut to fit. 12 1 One piece cuts ! 12 1 One piece cuts I 500 ft. bd. meas. Sfcd. 2 sides 600 ft. bd. meas. 400 ft. bd. meas. 1« lin Surfaced sides 200 lin, Surfaced sides 40 lin. Surfaced sides 12 lin Surfaced sides 10 lin. Surfaced sides 30 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides Inches Sills, sides 2x4 Sills, ends 2x4 Rafter plates 2x4 Studs front 2x4 Studs, back 2x4 Studs, ends and misc. 2x4 Rafters 2x6 Stringers for drop- pings platform 2x4 Perches 2x4 Sills for windows 2x5 Sills for curtains 2x5 Roof boards %xlO T & G siding- %-xG Flooring for ceiling, droppings platform and door*' %x4 Door frame %x5 Trim lumber %x4 Curtain frame %x2% Strip under shutter.. ..%x2^4 Strip under window... .%xl% Weather strips for windows & doors. ...%x% 5 squares prepared roofing. 6 window sashes. * '4 -inch, 6 lights, 8,xl2-inch glass. 80 sq. ft. 1-inch mesh poultry netting for curtains and windows. 30 sq. ft. heavy unbleached muslin for curtains. 6 anchor bolts. ^4x12 inches, with 2 2-in. washers for each. 1 pr. T-strap hinges for outside door. 1 hasp for outside door. 2 pr. 2%-inch butt hinges for shutters. 3 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows. 2 pr. 3-inch strap hinges for rear ventilators. 2 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perches. 10 2-inch screw hooks and eyes. 6 ft. chain for sash holders. 1 box 4-oz. carpet tacks for curtains. ^ lb. double-pointed tacks for netting. Nails and paint. SIATERIAL FOR FOUNDATIOIV AND FLOOR 67 bags Portland cement. 140 cu. ft. sand. 250 cu. ft. crushed stone or gravel. 140 cu. ft. cinders or stone for insulation. MATBRI.\L FOR WALL NESTS — 3 SETS (See Chapter X) Top boards %xl0 inches 30 I Back boards %xlO inches 50 1 Sides ; %x7 inches 40 1 Bottoms %x8 inches 30 1 Bottoms %x7 inches 30 1 Running boards %x6 inches 30 I FIG. 62 — CROSS SECTION OF HOUSE FOR 100 HENS FIG. 63 — END ELEVATION OF 100-HEN HOUSE Partitions %x7 inches 25 lin. ft. Front boards, bottom %x4 inches 30 lin. ft. Front boards, top %x2 inches 30 lin. ft. Support for running boards %x4 inches 25 lin. ft. Strips %-x.% inches 25 lin. ft. All boards to be surfaced two sides. 6 pr. 1-inch butt hinges. 12 2-inch screw hooks and eyes. MATERIAL FOR PLATFORM NESTS If platform nests are preferred instead of wall nests, the following material will be required for 4 sets of five nests each: ., Size Length No. of nches Feet Pieces Door %x7 12 2 Front strip %x6 12 2 Bottom %xl2 12 2 Rear strip, bottom %x4 12 2 Top strips ..%x2 12 4 Partitions %xll 10 3 Running board %x6 12 3 Brackets %x4 8 5 All boards to be surfaced two sides. 4 pr. 2%-inch T-strap hinges. For bill of materials for trap-nests see Chapter X. Building Temporary Houses The poultry keeper who has only a limited atnount to invest in his poultry house often finds it necessary to omit some features that otherwise would be consid- ered desirable and important. Where this is necessary the plan just given can be reduced to simpler terms, and still cheaper construction provided for. If this is done it must not be expected that the house will prove as con- venient or as permanent as a more expensive house, but it may still be made comfortable for the fowls. One of the first steps in reducing cost is to provide a post foundation and dirt floor. The foundation may consist of posts of some durable material such as cedar, locust, or chestnut. These should be 3 feet long and set 8 feet apart with about 6 inches projecting above the ground. The sills are to be spiked directly to the face of the posts with top of sill 2 inches above top of post and the enclosed space filled in with earth or sand to the top of the sill. If at all possible, it is recommended that a concrete or stone foundation be provided instead of posts, as wooden sills cannot be expected to last more than a few years when in direct contact with the ground, and it is a difficult and expensive operation to replace them. Plain boards of cheap grade may be used for siding, nailing them up and down as shown in Fig. 19 on page 17, which does away with the necessity for studs ex- cept at the corners, middle of each 38 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES end and at 6-foot intervals on the sides — enough sim- ply to stiffen the frame and give something substantial to which to nail plates and stringers. The ceiling around the perches may be omitted, also the droppings platform. Instead of the latter set up a 10-inch board It FIG. 64— CROSS SECTION OF COMPARTMENT LAYING HOUSE FOR COMMERCIAL, FLOCKS on the floor, about 12 inches in front of the first perch and extending the entire length of the house. This will confine the droppings under the perches and keep them out of the litter. For nests, orange boxes may be used (see Chapter X), fastening them to the wall by means of screw hooks or pieces of wire bent over nails so that they may be readily removed for cleaning. Perches may be arranged as in Fig. 64 or supported on trestles or on wires attached to the rafters. These modifications in the regular plan will materi- ally reduce the first cost of the house, but it would not be fair to hold out the impression that such a building- will prove as satisfactory in everyday use as a house constructed after the regular plans. The beginner can safely depend upon it that, where experienced poultry keepers aie practically unanimous in the adoption of cer- tain details of poultry house construction, there is a thoroughly good reason for doing so. The following bill of material provides everything heeded for constructing a 16x24-foot house where this style of construction is to be followed: DILI, OF M.iTERIAtS Size Length No. of Use Inches Feet Pieces Remarks Sills, side 2x8 12 4 Sills, ends 2x8 16 3 Plates 2x4 12 4 Studs, front 2x4 16 6 One piece cuts 2 Studs, back 2x4 10 2 One piece cuts 2 Studs, ends 2x4 8 3 Stringers and misc 2x4 10 8 Rafters 2x6 18 13 Sheathing boards for roof and sides 1x10 1050 feet, bd. meas. Donr battens, braces, etc. .1x4 25 lineal feet. Sills for windows and curtains 2x3 20 lineal feet. Frame for shutters 1x2 45 lineal feet. 10 squares of prepared roofing. 6 window sashes, l^A-inch, 6-light, 8xl2-inch glass. 80 sq. ft. 1-inch mesh netting for openings. 1 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges for outside door. 1 safety hasp. 5 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows and shutters. 6 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports. 20 2-inch hooks and eyes. Nails and tacks. A SIX-COMPARTMENT LAYING HOUSE Designed for Use of Commercial Poultry Keepers. Looks Well, and the Low Front Makes it Extra Comfortable in Winter. This hou.se is designed to meet the requirements of those who are keeping fowls on a large scale and who want a complete and practical house capable of being ex- tended to any desired length. While the house as here described consists of six pens, having an average capacity of 100 hens each, the number of pens may be reduced or increased to meet individual needs. If Leghorns are kept and large flocks are wanted, the wire partitions and base boards may be omitted. In long houses unbroken by partitions, especially houses with open fronts, there are always liable to be air currents, and it is chiefly for the purpose of protecting the fowls from drafts that tight partitions are provided at the back of the pens where the perches are located. This is the principal reason, also, for making the front partitions solid to a height of two or more feet. If it is desired to throw several pens into one. the rear partitions should be retained and extended two or three feet farther forward into the pens. In addition to breaking up floor drafts, they divide the house into smaller sections, giving the fowls at least a little feeling of privacy, which they greatly enjoy. The combination roof indicated for this house is rec- ommended regularly for all laying houses over sixteen feet in width. Shed roofs are sometimes used on twenty- =---=• t I 1 nr^ ^^""^^^ FIG. 66— END ELEVATION OF COMPARTMENT LAYING HOUSE FOR COMMERCIAL FLOCK foot houses, but they offer no advantages other than that they are a little easier for the inexperienced builder to construct and, as they make the front considerably higher, they give opportunity for additional ventilator openings up under the front rafter plate. This extra height is an advantage in warm climates and a disadvantage where the winters are cold. A combination roof may be built with supporting posts, as shown in this plan, using rafter ties only at par- titions, or the supporting posts may be omitted and ties used on each pair of rafters. The builder may take his choice of methods, but it is well to remember that when Leghorns are kept in houses with tied rafters it is neces- -- f^^MM f^^^'- ^P^ E3£ : U — -UHJI 1 "--M FIG. 65— PART OF TTRONT ELEVATION OF COMPARTMENT HOUSE FOR COMMERCI.-VL LAYING FLOCKS HOUSES FOR COMMERCIAL LAYING FLOCKS 39 sary to enclose the space between each tie and the pair of rafters above it with netting or strips, in order to pre- vent the fowls from roosting theie instead of on the regu- lar perches. Fig. 67 shows the floor plan for a complete section or pen and a portion of the opposite end section. . All sections are made identical with the one shown. Perches are provided as shown in Fig. 67. For detail drawing- showing rear ventilator (not indicated in Fig. 64), see Chapter X. This ventilator will be found a great aid in keeping the house comfortable in summer and should never be omitted. It does not seem to be commonly un- derstood that fowls sufifer as much from extreme heat as from cold, and their productiveness is affected by either. It is almost as important, therefore, to protect the fowls from severe heat as from cold. The average laying house is unnecessarily hot and uncomfortable in the summer While not provided for in the plans or the bill of materials, it is recommended that two six-light windows be supplied for each pen, to be located in the rear wall under the droppings platform. These windows are espec- ially desirable in twenty-foot houses, as they light up what otherwise is a comparatively dark section of the floor. In the summer, with the sash removed, the openings will be found to assist greatly in keeping the house cool. Of course, there must be no open cracks about these win- dows in winter, to expose the hens to drafts. Fig. 64 shows a cross-section at partition. In ex- posed locations it may be necessary to build every other partition solid in order to prevent floor drafts, but, as a rule, the two-foot baseboard will protect the fowls suffi- ciently, and open partitions make the house much cooler in summer. Fig. 66 shows an elevation with slope of roof and location of outside door. = u-'-l-^JlLMliS,.! L_4Be4ts_L."j' L!4LMet!+si__j LiAJNSSta.l.iij" -IL B . a a FIG. 67— FLOOR PLAN OF COMPARTMENT LAYING HOUSE FOR COMMERCIAL FLOCKS simply because provision is not made for sufficient ven- tilation. As a result of this there is little circulation of air, especially in the back part where perches are located. With an opening under the eave six to twelve inches wide, depending on where the house is located, there will be a constant circulation of air from front to back or back to front, as the case may be, and the ceiling around the perches will protect the fowls from direct drafts. In some instances a narrow door running the entire length of each pen is placed in the inside wall at the angle where it joins the roof ceiling. This is to be opened in hot weather, thus securing direct air circulation in the roosting compartment. If this is done, the doors must be made to fit tight, as there should be no suspicion of a draft here in winter. The outside opening should run the entire length of the building and is provided with hinged doors not over six feet long. Use sound, well-seasoned boards for this purpose in order to reduce the tendency to warp. The doors are to be held open with screw hooks and eyes, but should be closed in cold weather and fastened securely in place with wooden buttons. Fig. 65 shows front elevation and is self-explanatory. The size of the muslin-covered openings may be increased or decreased as local conditions require, remembering, however, that with the shutters closed the fowls will go through extremely cold weather without suffering any injury, even though the surface to be so protected may seem quite large. The accompanying bill of materials gives everything that is required for the construction of this house as de- scribed. In estimating quantities needed, reasonable al- lowance has been made for waste. Estimates on siding and ceiling provide for 25 per cent shrinkage and on sheathing boards about 10 per cent. However, as there often are changes to be made to meet individual require- ments, and as some of the building material is almost in- variably taken for other purposes, it will be wise to order a little extra. This is particularly true in the case of J^x4-inch trim boards for which the poultryman usually finds ^ astonishing number of extra uses. Material for the concrete foundation and floor is es- timated on the basis of a 2j/2-foot wall, six inches thick; floor, three inches thick, and a four-inch insulating layer. 40 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES BILL, OF MATERIALS FOR 6-PBN COMPARTMENT HOUSE Use ,Si« Length No. of Remarks Inches heet Pieces Sills, side 2x4 10 48 Sills, ends 2x4 10 S Plates 2x4 10 48 Studs, front 2x4 14 18 One piece cuts 2. Studs, back 2x4 10 30 One piece cuts 2. Stud;3, ends 2x4 16 11 Cut to fit. Studs, partitions 2x4 10 30 Miscellaneous 2x4 10 15 Partitions, sills 2x4 10 10 Ratters, rear 2x6 14 61 Rafters, front 2x6 14 31 Ridge pole 1x6 10 12 Center posts 4x4 10 6 Stringers for d r o p - pings platform 2x4 10 24 Perches 2x4 10 36 Surfaced upper edges rounded. Sills for windows 2x5 12 6 Milled. Sills for curtains 2x5 12 6 Milled. Roof boards %xlO 3000 ft. Surfaced 2 sides. T & G siding '78x6 1600 ft. Matched flooring for partitions, ceil ing and doors ysx4 2100 ft. Trim lumber %xi 400 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Door frames %x5 36 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Partition doors, braces, etc %x4 150 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Cross pes. for perches..%x4 100 lin ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Frames for shutters %x2 235 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Strips under shutters... 78x21/2 65 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Inside window sills %xl% 40 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Weather strips for windows & doors %x% 120 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. MATERIALS FOR PL.\TFORM >ESTS (TWENTY-FOUR SETS, 4 NESTS EACH) „ . Size Length No. o ^-' Inches Feet Pieces Base boards, front %x6 10 12 Doors %x7 10 12 Partitions - Vsxll 12 12 Base boards, back %x4 10 12 Top strips ; %x2 10 24 Bottom boards %xl2 10 12 Running boards %x6 10 12 Brackets y8x4 10 12 All boards surfaced four sides. 24 4-inch strap hinges for doors. 28 squares prepared roofins. 24 window sashes, IVi-inch, 6-light, 10xl4-inch glass. 850 sq. ft. 1-in. mesh netting for partitions and windows. 225 sq. ft. muslin for curtains. 26 anchor bolts, M!xl2-inoh, with 2-inch washers for each. 2 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges for outside doors. 2 6-inch hasps for doors. 12 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows. 12 pr. 2 1/2 -inch butt hinges for shutters. 6 dx3z. 2-inch hooks and eyes. 12 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports. 5 pr. double-acting spring hinges for partition doors 12 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for ventilator doors. 36 ft. chain for sash holders. Nails, tacks and paint. MATERI.\L FOR FOUNDATION AND FLOOR 210 bags Portland cement. 500 cu. ft. sand. 950 cu. ft. crushed stone or gravel. 800 cu. ft. cinders or broken stone for filling. Jl -fr ::E::::::::::'::i::! TTl mt] rrtn 'V ['Tn! i :i:::: :::::: i I III 1 1 1 III 1 : :i ::::::::::_. ::.:i II nil 1 1 1| T i::::::i:: :::i 11 1 jj ^ o..pp..,, B=-j 4'«.-. n«..i. r :=> M.,- H=... .6-.2* => W.-J.-J (jm.ll)yx3'(l.T.)3«.0'|F., ij ^ «"l.l (.....) 6-.. i." (..',■) t-M = H«-,BI..1.I... IF., 5 ..as; ,„„..».. => p.,„.o„ .f C.,1 Bo..d(S.. J.«..pt..,) • - -PLANS FOR CONSTRUCTING NEW ENGLAND LAYING HOUSE Prepared by Poultry Dept. Mass. Agri. College. -NEW KXGLAND OPEN-FRONT LAYING HOUSE Photo from Mass. Agri. College. A NEW ENGLAND LAYING HOUSE Especially Suitable for Farm Flocks. Has Open Front and Separate Small Pen Suitable for Breed- ers or Storage. By PROP. J. C. GRAHAM The plan herewith presented shows a detention pen six feet wide on the east side of the house. As can be seen, the house is 18 feet deep and 24 feet long, which gives floor space sufficient for 100 pullets or hens. The height of the front is 7 feet 10 inches, and back, 4 feet 10 inches. A 2x4, 12 feet long, sawed in two, will make the back stud 4^ feet and the front 7'/. feet. Then the two-inch plate at the top and the sill at the bottom give the full dimensions already stated. The rear rafter is just 14 feet long, the front one six feet, and the peak 10 feet from the floor. Note that the rafter at the rear is sawed oflf flush with the back edge of the stud and plate, and the rear roof board is allowed to project over about three inches, with a small strip nailed up un- derneath it on the outside. This closes up the crack, if any, and makes a tight, cheap method of construction. The front ends of the rafters are sawed off vertical- ly, and underneath the projection of the rafters a board is fitted in between the board nailed against the ends and the siding end of the house, which gives a tight, cheap construction for the front end of the rafters. Note that a 4x4 beam supports the center of the roof. This is necessary in a house 18 feet wide. The cloth at each end of the opening is nailed to frame made of materia! three inches wide and A_.,..T.M«il. HOUSES FOR COMMERCIAL LAYING FLOCKS 41 FIG. 70 — FRONT ELEVATION, CORNELL MODEL POULTRY HOUSE with a partition six feet from the east end, giving us a detention pen 6x18 feet. Every poultryman should have an extra pen of this kind. It may serve as a hospital in the fall, if necessary, or a pen for fattening cockerels or surplus females. It makes a fine place for a breeding pen during that time of the year, or for sitting hens during the hatching season. Many no doubt will prefer to in- stall suitable bins so that this space may be utilized as a feed room which may be done to good advantage if floor is rat-proof. seven-eighths in. thick. These are not hinged, but are kept in place by buttons on the inside. We think this is a little better than hinging, because curtains hinged at the top gather an immense amount of dust while the curtain is hooked up near the ceiling. These cloth frames can be removed in the summer time, but in cold weather they should be kept in place at all times. The rest of the open- ing, 10x3 feet, is covered by inch-mesh wire. There is no cloth or further protection. The birds roosting so far from the opening will not suffer in cold weather when the house is sufficiently filled. The reason for placing the opening in the center of the house, as we have done, is because an opening placed in that position, and not more than 19 feet in length, does not admit the wind sufficiently to give it a chance to whirl about in the house, whereas, if the wire and cloth portions of the front are reversed, the wind will whip in at one end and out of the other and the birds will be in a constant draft if there is any movement of air. The back part of the house is ceiled with ceil board from the plate down to the droppings board, and a ventilator at the back of the house is so arranged that the air during the summer months can pass in at the front of the house, under the droppings boards, up between this lining and the boards on the outside, and out, cooling the house to quite an extent with- out subjecting the birds to drafts. These ventilators should be left open during the summer months. The boards used on the outside are novelty siding, with no paper. This gives a very sightly house, and is also cheaper than one made of rough boards and covered w'th paper, unless one has the boards on hand. It is more economical to use 2x4's for rafters, and if sound they are heavy enough to support the roof. The house can be built with a shed roof if one desires, as there will be plenty of head room. Twenty-foot rafters are required for such a roof. This house is designed for a single pen or a section of a long house. We made it 30 feet long. THE CORNELL MODEL POULTRY HOUSE The Latest Cornell Laying House. Equipped With Dust Bath, Wind Bafflers, and Coops for Broody Hens. Special Ventilator. By PROP. JABIES E. RICE This house, as here illustrated, is provided with a concrete floor. If desired it may be set up on posts about a foot above the ground and a board floor put in. Quite frequently a board floor can be put in at considerably less cost than a concrete floor and may prove nearly as satis- factory. However, on the farm we advise that the con- crete floor be used. The stones, gravel and sand are us- ually near at hand and by using farm help the concrete foundation and floor can be put in at little expense. The concrete floor, if properly built, is warmer in winter and will outlast the board floor. FIG. 71— FLOOR PLAN OF CORNELL MODEL POULTRY HOUSE 42 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES so help to keep the FIG. 72 — CROSS SECTION OF CORNELL MODEL POULTRY HOUSE After the floor is made ready the studding and plates for front and rear are next cut and put up, squared and braced. The studs in front are cut nine feet long and those in the rear are 5 feet long. Notches for the lx6-inch ribbon should be cut in the rear studs before they are put up. The rafters should be notched to fit onto the plates and they should also set on top of the studding front and rear. If preferred, short rafters, 2x6-inch, 12 feet long may be used and allowed to overlap in the center and spiked together. The 2x6-inch roof support should now be put in with a 4x4-inch post in the center and a 2x4-inch under each end. Raise this support a little so as to make the rafters slightly crowning in the center. Space the end studs from two and one-half to three feet apart. In most localities in this state a single thickness of cove or novelty siding is all that is required. This siding must be put on with consider- able care. A knot hole or a crack FIG. 73 — CROSS SECTION OF FRONT between the boards may be the means of creating a draft in the house that will cause many birds to beQonie ill with colds. Cove siding must be thoroughly dry when it is put on, otherwise cracks are likely to open up between the boards when wind and sun have dried them out. Spruce siding is the best because it will not shrink as much as pine. The ad- vantage in using the cove siding is that it can be painted so as to make a very attractive house. The Cornell wind baffler was de- signed for the purpose of taking the place of the muslin curtains for ven- tilation. See page 21 for directions for making and installing bafflers. The perches are hung with hooks and chains to help prevent the mites from getting onto them. The per- ches should be painted twice a year with a good creosote wood preserva- tive. This will mites away. In the ceiling, about three inches above the droppings board, a four- inch opening extending the full length of the house is made. The ob- ject of this opening is to provide a means for carrying off the bad odor from the dr typings boards and roost- ing compartment. If desired, this opening may be closed in the win- tertime. The ten-inch opening under the eaves in the rear is almost a nec- essity during hot weather. This open- ing extends the full length of the house and there are four doors that can be opened and closed as desired, made of boards 12 inches wide. These should be cleated to prevent them from warping. The front ventilators are usually kept open all summer and should be opened a little in cold weather if there is any indication of dampness in the house. The window sashes are arranged to drop back at the top in order to increase ventilation. This feature is especially valuable during the winter months. The bottoms of the nests are stationary, "but the frames are removable for easy cleaning and spraying. If desired, these nests may be made much lighter by mak- ing the frames entirely of 9-16-inch lumber. There is an opening for the hens to enter the nests at the end nearest the droppings boards. A board or a small gate should be arranged to close this opening whenever it may be necessary to prevent pullets or hens from getting into the nests at night. A droppings board is placed just above the nests and a frame covered with one-inch mesh poultry wire above this for the bottom of the broody coop. The broody coop may be divided into two parts by a partition in the center. Troughs for feed and water can be hung on the outside of the slats. A 14-foot partition is put in the center of the house. This partition makes the house more rigid and also serves to prevent the circulation of strong air currents. This partition makes it convenient at the breeding season for dividing the house into two pens, one of which can be used for the selected breeders. The mash hopper should -MISSOURI PorLl'Ifi Photo Horn KUONT AND SIDE HOUSES FOR COMMERCIAL LAYING FLOCKS 43 be about six feet long and is built into the partition where it is least in the way of the caretaker. We consider the outside dust wallow a great improvement over the old style in- door dust box. It has the advantage of being outside, out of the way. It gives additional floor space at little cost. It receives the sunlight frofi three sides and very little dust can get into the house. The dust wallow should have a concrete floor which is on a level with that of the house. The roof is made on a frame so that it can be lifted off by two men for convenience in renewing the supply of fine sand, which seems to be the most satisfactory material for this purpose. There will be little necessity for labori- ously handling fowls and dusting or oth- erwise treating them for lice. -CROSS SECTION OF MISSOURI OPEN-FRONT POULTRY HOUSE: Reproduced from Bui. 80, University of Missouri. THE MISSOURI POULTRY HOUSE Is Proving Quite Popular in the Middle West, Partic- ularly On Farms. Is Lighted On All- Sides and Has Straw Loft. By PROF. H. I,. KEMPSTER* T4ie Missouri Poultry House has been designed by the Poultry Department of the I'niversity of Missouri, College of Agriculture, to meet the demand for a house of such size as to accommodate the average Missouri farm flock and also be adapted to Missouri conditions. Since the average farm poultry flock in Missouri is from 100 to ISO hens, this house is 20 feet square, the square house being the most economical to construct and affording a maximum amount of floor space. The ridge of the roof runs north and south, the roof being of equal spans. The walls are five feet at the eaves. It is eleven feet high at the peak. The soitth side contains a door in , n n n n II II l| . II 1 ii Ii II Jl II ij 11- ^P""^' — 1 — 1 — , , .. (J ,^ ■ ;■ ' ! !1 ii ' 1^ "|l ■ 75— FLOOR PLAN OF MISSOURI OPEN-FRONT HOUSE Reproduced from Bui. 80, University of Missouri. the center and a window 2x3 feet on each side of the door. These windows are placed high enough to afford a 30-inch opening beneath, one foot above the floor and extending the entire length each side of the door. This openmg is covered with wire screen, which keeps the hens in and the sparrows out. On the east and west sides are two windows, each two feet high and three feet wide. On the north end next to the floor is a six-light 8xl0-inch glass window. An ar- rangement which admits light from all directions has de- cided advantages, because the light is so distributed that there are no dark corners, thus discouraging the laying of eggs on the floor. Also, when light comes from one direction the hen always faces in that direction when she scratches. In consequence, there is a gradual movement of the litter toward the back side of the house. When light is evenly distributed this trouble is eliminated. One hen scratches in one direction and another in another and the litter never piles up on the dark side, be- cause there is no dark side in such a house. Another decided advantage in having open- ings on all sides is the excellent summer venti- lation which can be afforded by removing the windows. This is an important point and should not be overlooked in constructing a house un- der Missouri conditions. Summer ventilation is as important as winter ventilation. During the winter the success of ventilation of this type depends upon having the east, west and north sides and the roof entirely air-tight, so that wind will drive into the house only a short distance and never back to the roosts, which are on the north side. There is a grad- ual movement of the air from the inside out, thus insuring an abundance of ventilation with- out drafts. Open-front ventilation has an ad- vantage over all other ventilation because it re- quires no adjusting, never plugs up, and always works. This type of ventilation will adapt it- self to temperature changes without the con- stant attention of the attendant and in this way reduces to a minimum the labor of caring for the house. It probably meets the require- ments of a simple efficient farm poultry house more nearly than any house that has been pre- viously designed. The walls are of car siding, running up and down which forms a tight and attractive wall. The roof is made up of ship- lap covered with shingles. 44 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES The floor is made of dirt, which is an economical and durable type. Dirt floors are very efificient if properly constructed. In constructing a dirt floor there should be a wall six to eight inches high. A fill of four inches of coarse material, such as cin- ders, should be made to prevent damp floors. On top of the tamped cinders should be placed two or three inches of damp clay, which should be packed well and then permitted to dry so that it will harden. On top of the clay should be placed half an inch of loose dirt. The clay prevents the di:t and straw from mixing with the cinders to such an extent as to cause the moisture to rise. A covering of a foot or more of straw will keep the floor dry at all times. The greatest objections to dirt floors are: (1) the possible invasion of rats; (2) the fact that the straw will become dirty quicker than with a concrete floor; and (3) dustiness, which in many PIG. 77— EXD ELEVATION OF COLD CLIMATE HOUSE cases has caused throat trouble. However, because of the low cost of construction, the dirt floor can be safely rec- ommended and it will prove very efficient. The roosts should be at the back or north side and all on the same level. They should be four feet above the floor, 14 inches from the wall, and 12 inches apart, and made of 2x4's with rounded corners. Poles two inches in diameter, if firmly placed, will serve the purpose near- ly as well. Eight inches beneath the roosts is placed the droppings plat- form, which keeps the floor clean and increases the floor space avail- able for other purposes. Underneath the droppings platform are placed the nests. There should be eight inches of roosting place for each bird and one nest for every six or seven hens. Joists or collar beams are placed in the house just high enough to af- ford head room. In order to pre- vent the birds from roosting on these, they are covered with inch boards, 4 inches wide, placed two PIG. 78— FRONT ELEVATION OF MISSOURI POULTRY HOUSE Reproduced from Bui. SO, University of Missouri. inches apart. This forms a loft which is filled with straw. The straw acts as a sort of sponge by absorbing both dampness and heat and helps to keep the house drier in the winter and cooler in the summer. In most sections it will probably cost about $120.00 to build this house, aside from the painting. It will ac- commodate from 120 to 175 hens, depending in part on the breed, making the cost about $1.00 per hen or a little less. Plans for constructing this house are shown in Figs. 75, 76 and 78, and the complete house in Fig. 74. Bllili OP MATERIALS Use Pieces Size Bd. Feet Rafters 22 2x4-12 176 Plates and sills 8 2x4-20 107 Studding and frames 1 2x4-10 7 Roosts 5 2x4-20 74 Finishing 6 1x4-10 20 Finishing 1 1x4-16 6 Finishing 4 1x4-10 14 Finishing 8 1x4-12 32 Floor for loft 52 1x4-14 260 Car siding for walls — 1x6-10 600 Shiplap for roof and drop, plat — 1x8-12 720 Shingles — 5V^M. Sashes — 7 6-light, 8xl0-inch glass. Wire netting for windows and front — 3x32. Hinges — 1 pair. Foundation — 3 cu. ft. of concrete. • From Missouri Experiment Station Circular 80. FIG. 79 — CROSS SECTION OF COLD CLIMATE HOUSE f CHAPTER IV Laying Houses to Meet Special Conditions Laying Houses Especially Designed to Meet the Requirements of Cold and Warm Climates— Houses With Open-Front and Semi-Monitor Roofs— Block and Concrete Houses— Numerous Houses Designed to Meet Special Con- ditions, That Are in Everyday Use by Practical Poultry Keepers in This Country and Canada. aNIFORMITY in poultry-house design, as has been stated elsewhere in this book, is highly desirable nnnjn so far as it can be attained without sacrificing ^u£9 convenience or efficiency. What may be called the "general-purpose" types, illustrated and described in the preceding chapter, probably will meet the require- ments of the great majority of poultry keepers without FIG. 80 — FRONT VIEW ELEVATION OF COLD CLIMATE HOUSE change or modification in any essential particular. There are, however, special conditions, due to climate, location, or the use to which the house is to be put, that make it more practical to adopt some special type of construc- tion than to adhere to a standard plan, regardless of how desirable it may be to do so, in a general way. Each individual must decide for himself what is required in his particular case. In the following pages will be found plans for a number of houses designed to meet unusual conditions and requirements. It must be a very difficult problem, indeed, for which a suitable solution cannot be found among these. A LAYING HOUSE FOR COLD CLIMATES Straw-Loft Houses Are Highly Desirable in Extremely Cold Climates. They Are Comfortable, Dry, and Well Ventilated. What is known as the "straw-loft" house is one of the most desirable of special-type poultry houses. As a matter of fact, nothing but the high cost of building this house starlds in the way of its general adoption in all sections of the country. The thick blanket of straw in the gable not only makes the pen warmer in winter, but keeps it cooler in summer. It also absorbs moisture and keeps the house dry. There is a marked increase m in- terest in straw-loft houses where extreme cold must be encountered. Aside from the gable roof, straw-filled loft, and double walls, this house does not differ ma- terially from the one described on pages 35 to 2,1, and all that is said there in legard to the foundation, floors and fixtures applies with equal force to this house. It is especially desirable to have a concrete founda- tion and floor with double-walled houses, as the space between the walls makes an excellent hiding place for rats. When once they have ob- tained a foothold it is entirely diffi- cult to dislodge them, and even more so if they gain access to straw loft. In finishing the loft it is wise to provide a trap door in the ceiling so that the straw can be thrown down into the house instead of having to fork it all out at the gable doors. This trap need only consist of a few slats with a batten at each end, cutting these long enough to reach across to the permanent slats on either side, which will hold the door in place without hinges or other fast- ening. In filling the loft, which usually will be done in the fall, use good, clean straw, free from mold, dust, or chaff. Chaffy straw will pack too tight, interfering with ventila- tion. The material should be filled in loosely, almost to the ridge, starting at the farther end and working back without tramping. Filled in this way the material will settle just enough to leave a good-sized open space be- low the ridge, which is essential to proper circulation of air. Fig. 79 shows a cross-section of the house with wall nests, perches, etc. The slats that are to hold the straw in place should be nailed securely to the underside of the oveihead joists and may be spaced quite a bit further apart than shown in the plan if it is desired to economize FIG. 81— SECTION OF FRONT ELEVATION OF COMPART MENT HOUSE FOR WARM CLIMATES 46 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES on lumber. Where long straight poles are obtainable these may be usfd in place of sawecj strips. Whether strips or poles are used, it is a good plan to lay a single wide board across the top face of the joists, immediately under the ridge, in order to have secure footing when it is necessary to enter the loft. It will be noted that no rear ventilators are provided in this plan. With a straw loft and with the louvered ventilators on hinges like doors, so that they may be thrown wide open in warm weather, no additional ventilation is needed in the north. The floor plan for this house is the same as the one for curtain-front house described on pages 35 to i7 . I'ig. 80 gives the front elevation, with dimensions for windows and curtained openings clearly indicated. Fig. 77 shows end elevation, with location and size of venti- lator door in gable. DILL OF MATERHLS ,,^ Size Length No. of H^marV.; Inches Fe. t Pieces KemarKs Sills, sides 2x4 12 4 Sills, ends 2x4 16 2 Plates, sides 2x4 Ifi 3 Plates, ends 2x4 16 2 Studs 2x4 14 44 One piece cuts 2. Studs, gable and miscellaneous 2x4 10 8 Rafters 2x5 10 26 Ridge 1x6 12 2 Ties 2x5 16 11 Staybraces 1x6 8 11 One piece cuts 2. Supports for drop- pings platform 2x4 12 4 Perches 2x4 12 6 48 Round edge. Surf. 4 sides. Sills for curtains... 2x8 10 1 121/2 Milled, cuts 2. Sills for windows- 2x8 12 1 15 Milled, cuts 3. ?iding %x6 730 ft. bd. meas. Roof boards '/sxlO 260 ft. bd. meas. .Surfaced 2 sides. Flooring for ceil'g, drop, plat form, door, etc %x4 800 ft. bd. meas. Trim lumber %x4 300 lin. ft. Surfaced. Strips for loft %x3 800 lin. ft. Surfaced. Door and v^^indow frames %x6 90 lin. ft. Surfaced. Strip under shut's.. %x3>/4 8 lin. ft. Cuts 3. Surfaced. Strip base of win- dow y8x2% 8 lin. ft. Cuts 3. Surfaced. Frame for shutters.. %x2 30 lin. ft. Cuts 3. Surfaced. Frame & louvering for gable doors... %x4 50 lin. ft. Cuts 3. Surfaced. Weather strips for windows & doors.. %x% 30 lin. ft. Cuts 2. Surfaced. 6 squares of prepared roofing. 6 window sashes. 11,4-inch, 6-light, 10xl2-inch glass. 70 sq. ft. 1-inch netting for openings and windows. 30 sq. ft. unbleached muslin for curtains. 2 4-inch hasps for gable door. 6 anchor bolts, M!Xl2-inch, with 2-inch washers for 1 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges for outside door. 1 6-inch hasp for outside door. 2 pr. 2%-inch butt hinges for shutters. 3 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows. 2 pr. 4-inch T-strap hinges for gable doors. 3 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports. 6 ft. chain for sash holders. 10 2-inch screw hooks and eves for windows, etc. Nails, taclts, and paint. MATERIALS FOR FOUNDATION AND FLOOR 57 sacks Portland cement. 140 cu. ft. of sand. 200 cu. ft. of crushed stone or gravel. 140 cu. ft. of cinders or stone for filling. M.ATEHIALS FOR "WALL NESTS Us ize Length chcs Feet xlO 30 lin. f xlO 55 lin. f x7 40 lin. f x8 30 lin. f x7 30 lin. f x6 30 lin. f x7 25 lin. f x4 30 lin. f x2 30 lin. f x4 25 lin. f x% 25 lin. f Top % Back % Sides % Bottoms % Bottoms % Foot boards % Partitions % Front boards, bottom % Front boards, top % Support for running boards % Strips for partitions % All boards surfaced 2 sides. 6 pr. 1-inch butt hinges. 12 2-inch screw hooks and eyes. m.4lTerials for platform nests If platform nests are preferred instead of wall nests the following material will be required for four sets, five nests each: Use Size Inche No. of Pieces Doors %x7 12 2 Front base %x6 12 2 Bottom %xl2 12 2 Rear base %x4 12 2 Top strips %x2 12 4 Partitions %xll 10 3 Running boards %x6 12 2 Brackets %x4 8 5 All boards surfaced 2 «ides. 4 pr. of 2V4-inch T-strap hinges. The various details of construction which apply gen- erally to this and all .similar houses, will be found in Chapter I, under appropriate headings. While the bill 0/ materials specifies prepared roofing, good shingles, if ob- tainable at reasonable cost, will be found more satisfac- tory and will last longer. - s^uf^.^ Z.' On Cente>-s FIG. 82— FLOOR PLAN OF COMPARTMENT LAYING HOUSE FOR WARM CLIMATES LAYING HOUSES TO MEET SPECIAL CONDITIONS 47 ^'O Partem ipacesBei^^eef 2'°on Ce.nTG.i-s n n n d n__n a n n n hill Fou.ndstion'^all "^ST^^^'SiU - — 35'°'— FIG. S3 — FRAMING THE FRONT OF WARM CLIMATE HOUSE A LAYING HOUSE FOR WARM CLIMATES Provides Extra Ventilation Required in All Warm Cli- mates. Is Not Too Deep, and Front is Shaded By Wide Eave. While the house described on pages 38 to 40 may be adapted to the requirements of warm climates by making suitable changes in ventilation, there are some features that are especially desirable in mild climates that are not needed or wanted elsewhere. For this reason plans for a special warm-climate house have been prepared. This hbuse can be built in any number of pens desired, the one' here illustrated affording ample accommodations for 900 to 1000 fowls, or about 150 to the pen. The rule of four square feet to the fowl, which applies generally wherever fowls must be kept in confinement for long pe- riods of time, does not hold wher£ they can be out most of the time and where the house is mainly a place for roosting and for providing accommodations for nests, feed hoppers, etc. The foundation and floor as shown in the cross- section. Fig. 85, are of concrete. It will be noted that the foundation wall is carried up a foot above the floor, the purpose of this being to protect the sills frorri decay and insure a dry floor. It is planned to have the floor a foot above the ground level, but if the site is well drained, six inches will be enough. General details of foundation, floor, and anchorage are as described in Chapter I. To afford protection from the sun, the front eave is extended so as to form a permanent canopy over the front of the house. Some builders go a step further than this and make the canopy six feet or more wide, enclosing the space and using it as a sort of shaded runway. This is an excellent plan and adds but little to the cost of the house. Where this is to be done it is advisable to provide a plain shed roof over the main part of the house (16 feet) and then extend the canopy as far for- ward as desired, sloping it to the front. This can be done without changing or interfering in any man- ner with the plans of the house as here given, except to use 18-foot rafters. Fig. 82 shows floor plan, with location of all fixtures. The house for which this plan was originally prepared was to be equipped with trapnests as shown. As a smaller number of hens can be accommo- dated per nest where trap-nests are used, additional nests had to be pro- vided along the wall or partition. The plan for these nests will be found in Chapter X. and a bill of materials given. If ordinary plat- form nests are to be used, the space under the platform will accommodate all the nests needed, building them as de- scribed in Chapter X. The difficulty of controlling lice and mites is much greater in warm climates than in the north and it is always ad- visable to provide lice-proof metal perch supports, as shown. Where these are installed and properly looked after, there is no possibility of mites passing from the perches to the wall and plat- form, resulting sooner or later in a mite-infested house which can only be cleaned by the most painstaking efforts. Fig. 37 shows the type of rear ventilator in general use in the south. No harm will result from having this open directly into the house, but it is desirable to have the perches suffici- ently below the opening so that the fowls on them will not be in a direct draft. FIG. 84 — AN. OPEN FRONT HOUSE AT GEORGIA EXPERIMENT STATION Houses of this general type are in successful use In all parts of the South — generally with muslin curtains for additional winter protection. The opening for the rear ventilator should be at least 10 inches wide, and should run the entire length of the building. It is enclosed on the inside vv^th one-i;ich poultry netting. Two six-light window sashes should be placed in the rear wall in each pen, under the droppings platform. These are provided as much for coolness as for light. Fig. 81 shows the front elevation, with dimensions of openings, which may be prptected with muslin curtains on the outside of the building, as shown in Fig. 89, on &«guNO CROSS SECTION OF WARM CLIMATE HOUSE 48 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 86 — END ELEVATION OF WARM CLIMATE HOUSE page 49. Fig. 83 shows the method of framing the front with all necessary dimensions. Fig. 86 shows method of enclosing the ends, leaving a large ventilator opening in each gable, to be protected with poultry netting. BILL OF MATERIALS Us Siz Inches Sills, sides 2x4 Sills, ends 2x4 Plates and stringers 2x4 Base of partitions 2x4 Studs, front 2x4 Studs, back 2x4 Studs, ends, part'ns, etc .2x4 Ridge plate 2x4 Center posts 4x4 Ties _ 1x6 Rafters, front 2x6 Rafters, rear 2x6 Support for drop, plat 2x4 Perches 2x4 Sills for front open's 2x6 T & G siding 1x6 Roof boards 1x10 (If gralvanized roofing is used substitute 1400 s. f. 1x4 strips.) Flooring- bds. for plat'ms, doors, partitions, etc 1x4 Trim lumber 1x4 Door frame 1x5 T & G boards for hop's.. ..1x6 Length No. of Feet Pieces One piece cuts 2. One piece cuts 2. One piece cuts 2. 12 10 74 16 40 One piece cuts 2. 14 78 10 30 12 36 8 20 One piece cuts 2. 2000 ft. bd. meaa 3500 ft. bd. meas. Surfaced. 800 .s. f. 160 lin. ft. 160 lin. ft. 160 lin. ft. 170 lin. ft. 260 lin. ft, 160 lin. ft. 1900 ft. bd. meas 1600 ft. bd. meas. Sfcd. 4 Sds. 40 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. 800 sq. ft. ,nA? squares prepared roofing or galvanized roofing. 22 ^' ',-°' l-'"<^h wire netting for front, partitions, etc. 30 anchor bolts. %xl2-inch, with 2 2-in. washers for each. 2 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges for outside doors. 6 pr. double-acting spring hinges for partition doors. 12 pr. 6-inch strap hinges for rear ventilating doors. 3 dozen 2-inch hooks and eyes. 12 pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports; or 36 pairs metal perch supports. Nails, staples and paint. MATERIALS FOR TRAP NESTS (See Chap. X.) Sides and bottoms. T & G boards %x4 Top rail of partitions %x2 Top rail of ends %xli4 Bottom rail of ends %x3 Side rail of ends 7ix2 Strips %ii% Partition strips %x2% All boards to be surfaced 4 sides. Galvanized doors, wire, staples and wooden triggers MATERIALS FOR PL.\TFORM NESTS (24 sets of 4 nests each. To be svibstituted for trap-r if preferred.) Size Length > „ tTse Inches Feet P Door 7,^x7 10 Front base %x6 10 Bottom 7^x12 10 Rear base •. %x4 10 Partitions 7^x11 10 Running boards %-k6 10 Top, str'P^ %x2 10 Uprights 2x4 10 Brackets 1x4 10 All boards to be surfaced 4 sides. 30 pr. 21^-inch T-strap hinges for nest doors. MATERIALS FOR FOtJND.4TION AND FLOOR 230 bags Portland cement. 660 cu. ft. of sand. 900 cu. ft. gravel or crushed stone. 800 cu. ft. of cinders or stone for filling. BILL OF MATERIALS FOR BOARD FLOOR If a board floor is preferred for this house instead of concrete, the following lumber will be required: Use ,^'" H"^."' ?°- °' Remarks '^^'^ Inches Feet Pieces Posts, wood, stone or concrete. .8x8 5 60 Sills, sides 2x8 16 40 Doubled. Sills, ends 2x8 16 4 Doubled. Bridging 1x2 .... 750 lin. ft. Joists 2x8 16 75 T & G flooring 3,000 s. f. Posts to be spaced 6 feet apart, set 2 feet deep and leveled 3 feet above the surface of the ground. If building is on sloping ground, posts are to be leveled so that sill will be at least 18 inches from the ground at point nearest the ground. 600 sq. ft. of siding will enclose underpart on three sides, leaving the front open. OTHER WARM CLIMATE HOUSES Various Types of Practical Houses in Successful Use in the South. The illustrations on this and the following pages show other types of houses that are in successful use in the south, all indicating that protection from enemies and from rain and sun is about the only imperative condition that must be met. No detailed description of these houses need be given, as their construction is of the simplest na- ture. They are illustrated here simply to show the differ- ent methods that may be successfully employed to secure a free circulation of air without which poultry houses in warm climates will prove unendurable for fowls in the hot season. Fig. 89 shows a -house in the Morristown (Tenn.) district. With slight modifications houses of this type will be found all through this section. The muslin cur- tains are fastened to wires at top and bottom by means of small rings, and slide back and forth to open and close. The curtains are on the outside of the front and high winds simply blow them back against the netting, which supports them so that they do not whip back and forth to any great extent. Because of this freedom from whip- ping these loose curtains appear to last about as long as muslin tacked to frames. The house here shown is built with a plain-shed roof and the entire front, from the top plate to within about FIG. 87— A GOOD HOUSE FOR SEMI-TROPI(;.\L CLIMATE This house was designed for use in the semi-tropical climate of the extreme southern part of the United States. Maximum air circulation is secured and eaves are made extra wide for shade. three feet of the ground, is left entirely open except for the curtains. In the comparatively mild climate of Ten- nessee this construction provides a good degree of win- ter comfort for the fowls and plenty of ventilation for summer. Throughout the south generally, wide houses LAVING HOUSES TO MEET SPECIAL CONDITIONS 49 PIG. 88 — DETAIL OF FRONT WARM CLIMATE HOUSE are not considered desirable on account of the difficulty of making them cool in summer, and they seldom are built over 16 feet in depth, unless with a semi-monitor roof. So far as the general details of construction and arrangements are concerned, the house illustrated in Fig. 89 does not dif- fer materially from the six - compart- ment house shown in Figs. 81 to 86, aside from the fact that low-cost con- struction as d e - scribed on page 37, is almost in- variably adopted. Fig. 84 shows a practical laying house on the poul- try plant of the Georgia Experi- ment Station. It is built with a combination roof and a wide eave which shades the front — a highly de- sirable feature in warm climates. Houses in the south especially need rear ventila- tors as shown in Fig. 7)1, provid- ing not only the door under the eave, but also the windows under the droppings platform. It is just as important to protect fowls from heat here as it is to protect them from cold in the north, and there is no better means of doing this than in the manner just suggested. Where English sparrows are numerous, it will pay well to use one-half or three-quarter-inch netting on all openings in poultry houses, as the birds can get through ordinary inch-mesh netting. Where the front is open practically all the time, as is the case in the south, these pests become thoroughly at home, multiply rapidly, thanks to the good feeding they are able to secure from the open hoppers, and in the course of a year's time con- sume great quantities of feed. The house described on pages 47 and 48 is designed for use in semi-tropical climates, where its free ventila- tion, combined with the shade afforded by the extra wide eaves, makes it particularly desirable. •Houses of similar wide-open con- struction can be used to excellent ad- vantage as colony houses for grow- ing stock in all parts of the south. The buildings usually provided for this purpose are almost invariably too close and warm. After settled weather chickens undoubtedly will do much better if given open-air condi- tions such as are afforded by this house. As here illustrated it is used for a laying flock, the nests being placed on the outside of the building and at- tached to it by means of stout hooks. The fowls reach the nests through suitable doors (seen on the left side), and eggs are gath- ered from the outside, the top being on hinges. The perches are arranged in two sets located on either side, with a three or four-font passageway through the cen- ter. They are liinged at the side to swing out of the way, and in this illustration are shown hooked up, as they usually are left during the day. Notice that the perches instead of being placed close together as is usually the practice in the north, are spaced wide apart so that the fowls will not be bunched on them at night. No droppings boards are provided for ordinary use. If a concrete floor is provided every practical require- ment is met by covering it with an inch or two of clean sand. For colony use the houses rest directly on the ground and instead of constant cleaning are simply moved to a new location from time to time. The top ventilator affords an outlet for the warm air in the upper part, this method of construction maintaining a constant circulation through the house even when there is no breeze at all. If to be used as a movable house, it will be necessary to brace it well, as there are no boards on the sides to help to stiflfen the frame, and it will quickly become racked out of shape unless thorough- ly braced at all corners. For use in the extreme south, where protection from extreme heat is the principal object sought, the house illustrated in Fig. 11, has been found very satisfac- tory. This house was designed by J. T. Gratigny of Southern Florida and is the result of many years' ex- perience in poultry keeping in that semi-tropical climate. The walls of the house consist exclusively of one-inch mesh netting and are about four feet high at the eaves. The nests are placed on the ground under the eaves and are entered by the hens from the house, while the eggs are gathered fromi the outside. The particular house here shown is portable and for that reason has no floor. For perinanent houses concrete floors are recommended. The perches are placed on horizontal frames located on each side of the house, with a four-foot passageway through the center. Perches are about three feet above the floor and the frames are hinged at back to swing up out of the way when droppings are to be cleaned out. AN OPEN FRONT LAYING HOUSE This Type of House is Quite Popular in Sections Where Winters Are Not Too Severe. Front is Always Open. The house shown in Figs. 90 and 91 represents one method of open-front construction. No curtains of any sort are provided for this house as regularly planned, the LARGE LAYING HOUSE IN MORRISTOWN (TENN.) DISTRICT FIG. Curtains usually are closed only in extremely cold weather but, as in the case with the house illustrated above, they may be partially drawn in warm ■weather to provide shade. 50 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES l-l'i ■'" -\ T'llTLAl; 'jl'K.V-FI:' iNT il'jL'SE low front and shape of roof being depended upon to keep Tain and snow from beating in. For a small house, where the owner wishes to be free from the necessity of adjust- ing curtains to meet changing weather conditions, and with small-combed fowls, this plan gives good results. It is being used successfully even in comparatively cold cli- mates. The following description of this house is by the originator, Jos. Tolman: "This fresh-air house is a very simple one to con- struct, as will be seen by noting the photographic view and plans. It is a plain hip-roofed building with the long pitch of the roof to the front or south. The roof and closed sides are of one-inch boards, shingled, making tight walls and roof. The eaves are about four feet from the ground and the peak of the roof is a little over seven feet. The house is eight feet wide by 14 feet long, and has a window in the center of the west side and a door in the center of the east side, directly opposite the window. In operating this house in summer, both the door and window are removed and replaced with wire nettmg. The south front is always open, being closed in by one-inch wire netting only. This part of the house is wheie it differs from other fresh-air plans. The house is run wide open in front both night and day, storm and sunshine, all the year around. A gate is provided in this wire front to give the birds access to the yard. "For those who are using the Tolman house in ex- ceptionally bleak, cold locations, I recommend the use of a coarse, unbleached muslin curtain immediately in front of the roosts. The location of the roosts in my improved houses gives an excellent opportunity to place this cur- tain in front of the same so that it can be operated con- veniently, thus insuring the best results in the coldest climate in America. The muslin curtain should be loosely tacked upon a light wooden frame, the frame being hung with hinges from the front roof directly in front of the ends of the two side roosts and should extend no lower than the droppings board. During the day when not in use, the curtain can be fastened up to the roof out of the way by means of a wooden button, conveniently placed. If, on the last visit to the house at night, the attendant thinks that the temperature is going to be many degrees below zero, the curtain may be dropped. My advice is never to use the curtain except in the most extreme cold weather, when the temperature is zero or below. I prefer to place the curtain in front of the roosts rather than in the front part of the house, for if used as I advise, more animal heat is retained and practically the same amount of fresh air reaches the birds, owing to the arrangement of the roosts and droppings board and the position of the curtain or muslin screen. M.VTERIAL. FOR HOUSES 8x14 FEET 300 sq. ft. hemlock boarding. 40 lln. ft. of 2x4 joists. 157 lin. ft. of 2x3 joists. 1 window, 7x8-inch elass. Window frame for same. I'/t M. shingles to be laid 5 in. for roof. 1 !/■> M. shingles laid 6 in, for sides. "From observations I have made I am sure that the most practical and economical house will be one about half as large again, or I would have my dimensions 14 feet wide, by 21 feet deep, with six-foot posts on the north end, 4>4-foot posts on the south end, and a large window in the west side. The highest part of the roof would be about 10 feet from the ground. You would then have a house, ideal for all kinds of weather and locations, that would accommodate from 65 to 80 layers, according to the breed, and from four to five males, and at a very small additional cost over the figures given for the 8x14- foot house." SMALL HOUSE WITH SEMI-MONITOR ROOF Lower Front of This House is Always Left Open. Sunlight Reaches Rear Part Through Upper Windows. The semi-monitor roof house is meeting with some degree of popularity and appears to be practical and de- sirable under certain conditions. The purpose of this type of construction is to secure improved ventilation and to get direct sunlight in the back part of the house. It would appear to be especially fitted for use in houses 20 FIG. 91 — PLANS FOR OPEN-FRONT POULTRY HOUSE 1 — Floor plan, showing location of platform, nests, etc. 2 — East end, showing location of door and studa; 3 — West end, with position of window and studs. For construction of front, see illustration reproduced from photo of house as it appears in actual use (Fig. 90). LAYING HOUSES TO MEET SPECIAL CONDITIONS 51 SIDE-SECTION OF SEMI-MONITOR POULTRY HOUSE feet or more in width, also in the south where high roofs are not objectionable. In the north semi-monitor houses are open to criti- cism, as they are almost always drafty in cold weather, and it frequently is necessary to put up muslin screens in front of the perches to protect the fowls while on the roost. In wide houses it sometimes is desirable also to divide the house through the middle with a muslin partition to prevent drafts on the floor. Figures 92 and 93 illustrate a house of this type, which is described by the designer, Dr. P. T. Woods, as follows: "The plans given herewith are for an open-air house 10 feet wide by fourteen feet deep. A 10xl4-foot house will accommodate 35 layers and may be used satisfac- torily for smaller flocks of from 12 to 25 breeders. The plans are for a colony house, but same may be consid- ered as the first sections of a continuous house, if desired. "Fig. 92 shows side (sectional) elevation. Position of posts, studs, plates and rafters is clearly shown. Dotted lines show position of window in the west wall. Door placed between two highest studs in east wall, with bottom just below top of sill to break joint and stop draft. Door opens outward and hinges on the north side. A screen door of one-inch mesh hexagon netting should be made to open in, just inside solid door. This is useful in summer or at any time when it is desired to have door, open. It will be noted that the south front is boarded down six inches from the top and up 18 inches from the bottom. The bal- ance of space is always open, being cov- ered only by one-quarter-inch square- mesh galvanized wire netting. The act- ual opening in front is two and one- half feet high by about 10 feet wide. X is a 12-inch board notched to receive rafters, and is nailed to upright stud^ to serve the double purpose of a sup port for front rafters and as a stop draft, XX is litter board, extending fromflcMir level to four to six inches above .';ill, and should be used to keep litter in rear section of house. It should be made removable, resting in cleats. The front section of the house should have sand or earth floor only. In the rear section use clean, new straw litter. This house may be made with sand or gravel floor filled in to top of sill, but we would prefer a cement or con- crete floor (rat proof) to bottom of sill and filled in with sand and litter to top of sill. "Where ground is level house stands with bottom of sills on posts or rock six inches above ground level and is boarded down to ground. Height at peak is 8 ft.; at back, 5 ft.; at north end of front section, S ft. 6 in., and at front, 4 ft. 6 in. — all measurements from ground. A house built after the foregoing plans is shown in Fig. 93. To make it ratproof it was built with a double-boarded floor and was placed on posts, protected with inverted metal pans, as showo." The following is the bill of ma- terials for this house: 6 posts 7 ft. long: to cut in t'wo. 2 pieces 4x4 in., 14 ft. long for side sills. 2 pieces 4x4 in. 10 ft. long for end sills. 4 pieces 2x3 in. 3 ft. 8 in. long for back studs. 3 pieces 2x3 in. 5 ft. long for studs. 2 pieces 2x3 in. 5 ft. 8 in. long for studs. 3 pieces 2x3 in. 6 ft. 4 in. long for studs. 2 pieces 2x3 in. 4 ft. long for studs. 4 pieces 2x3 in. 3 ft. 4 in. long for studs. 3 pieces 2x3 in. 10 ft. long for plates. 2 pieces 2x3 in. 10 ft. long for droppings boards supports. 2 pieces 2x3 in. 10 ft. long, with rounded edges, for roosts. 5 pieces 2x4 in. 8 ft. 9 in. long for rear rafters. 5 pieces 2x4 in. 6 ft. long for front rafters. 58 sq. ft. matched boards for droppings board and door. 460 sq. ft. common boards for sides and roof. 1 full window (2 sash six-light) 4 ft. 3 in. x 2 ft. 6 in. 3 three-light cellar window sash for monitor top. 10 running feet of 14 -inch, square-me.sh, heavy galvanized wire netting, 30 in. wide for open front. 500 sq. ft. best roofing fabric with caps and nails. Bundle shingles for making eaves on north and south sides. Nails, hinges, spikes, screws, etc. This plan may readily be adapted to a house of larger size by making the following changes: For a col- ony house to accommodate a flock of about 100 hens, or for sections of the same capacity in a continuous 3 — 8MALL SliiMI-iMOiS'lTlJli I'OULTl;! ii-j'u.-ii^ 52 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES ^^nnti house, it is recommended that the floor dimensions be 20x20 feet, with the rear section 12 feet deep. The rear should be 5j^ feet high, and the front of the monitor section 9 feet. The low section should be 6 feel where it joins the monitor section, and \yi feet in the front. Four d light sashes should be provided fm the monitor top. Two sashes of tin same size are placed side by side in the west wall — opposite the door — and another is placed well up in the front section, on the east side near the door. A solid partition reaching from floor to roof is placed in the middle of the pen and extending to within 9 ft. 6 in. of the fnmt, froir which point an 18-inch partition ex- tends clear to the front. This partition is to protect the fowls from drafts while on the perches and on the floor. If a continuous house is built it is recommended that solid partitions be provided between pens. SEMI-MONITOR HOUSE AT OHIO EXP. STATION Large Houses of This Type Must Have the Front Enclosed With Glass and Muslin for Use in Cold Weather. By \\. J. IIUSS This house is 24x100 feet in size. It is divided into six pens, each 15x24 feet, and a feed room, 10x24 feet. The feed room is located in the center of the house. Par- titions of matched sheathing divide the feed room from the pens. Partitions of two-inch mesh poultry netting are used to divide the pens. A concrete foundation wall is used under the house. A tile drain was laid, in the outside bottom of the trench dug for the wall. No wooden sills are used on the con- crete wall. The studs are fastened to the wall by means of an iron pin placed in the bottom of each and in the concrete wall. No artificial floors are used in the pens. K concrete floor is used in the feed room. On ground that is not FIG. 95— A SIX-PEN SEMI-MONITOR LAYING HOUSE The house illustrated above is in successful use on the poultry plant of the Ohio E.Kperiraent Station and is recommended by the Station as adapted to Ohio conditions generally. The narrower openings in the lower front are protected by muslin shutters in severe weather. The larger openmgrs, also all those in the upper front, are equipped with glass sashes — not all in place at time photo was taken. well drained, artificial floors would prob.-ibly be needed to prevent the pens from becoming damp. The deeper openings shown in the front of the house in Fig. 95 are fitted with windows for cold weather use; the shallower ones, with curtains. The curtain frames are made of lx4-inch strips, nailed together at the cor- ners. These frames are covered with a very thin grade of muslin. Two doors in the rear of each pen near the eaves are not shown in the illustrations. These are 20 inches high and 45 inches long. All windows and cur- tained openings and openings for the doors in the rear of the house are closed with one-inch mesh wire netting. This netting in one of the curtained openings in each pen is fastened to a removable frame, which makes a convenient place through which to put straw into the pens and remove the litter. The windows in the upper part of the house are hmged at the bottom to swing in. The curtains and win- dows in the front of the house are hinged at the top to swing in. The doors in the rear wall of the house are hinged at the top to swing out. Probably a more con- venient arrangement for these would be to hang them to swing in. The walls of the house are of a single thickness of matched siding. The roof is made by laying one thick- ness of matched slieathing on the rafters and covering this with one of the better grades of prepared composition roofs, of which a number are on the market. A house of this type, of a size to accommodate the desired number of fowls, should prove satisfactory in places having the same latitude as Ohio, and probably even farther north or south. This house has been found especially satisfactory during hot weather. In colder climates the win- dows in the upper part of the house could probably well be double-glazed to prevent radiation to a considerable extent. It might appear, at first sight, that the cost of construction of a house of this type would be greater than of a shed roof house of the same dimensions. It will be found, however, that there will be very lit- tle, if any, difference in the cost, when both houses are built of the same grade of material. -ET.KVATED POULTRY HOUSE AT MISSOURI STATE POULTRY EXPERIMENT STATION f LAYING HOUSES TO MEET SPECIAL CONDITIONS 53 LAYING HOUSE WITH ELEVATED FLOOR Houses With Floors Several Feet Above Ground Are Especially Well Adapted to Damp Locations Under many conditions, especially in flat, damp loca- tions, a house vifith an elevated floor is often desired. The house illustrated in Fig. 94 is one that has been in use at 'the Missouri State Poultry Experiment Stat. and is highly recommended. The general details of tliis house will be readily understood from a short study of the illus- tration. It is 14x28 feet and has a capacity of over 100 hens. The upper part is equipped with the slatted ventil- ators that were originated at this station. The lower story is five feet high, making it easy to work in. A substantial concrete foundation is provided, but the underpart lias a ■dirt floor. The entire front underneath is open and in the coldest weather that may be expected at this station the fowls are comfortable and happy, wallowing in the dust ■and soaking Jn the sunshine. Regarding this house, Dr. Patterson, formerly Director of the Station, writes: "We find the second story of this house to be drier than our one-story houses. The opening for the stairway which goes up on the inside of the house is under the droppings board, and as carbon dioxide is heavier than air, it gives an opportunity for it to pass out by going down through this opening. The lower story affords what we might term semi-outside conditions. The temperature and air are about the same as out of doors, but the birds are protected from the storm. "Where a number of hens are kept in one flock and more than one male is used, the fertility is much better with the two-story house, for there is always a boss in the flock, and as he cannot be upstairs and down at the same time, he cannot control the situation as he does in the one-story house. The contractors who have built our houses estimate that the cost of the two-story house will be the same as the one-story house with a concrete floor. "We find that with windows under the droppings board in the rear of the house, light is admitted to all parts of the floor, and as the hens usually scratch from the light in order to see their food, they keep the litter evenly dis tributed over the floor. We also find that the fowls like to be in a good light during bad days when they are con- fined to the house." WESTERN WASHINGTON POULTRY HOUSE Popular for Housing Large Flocks in the Northwest. Has Special Labor-Saving Attachment for Raising and Lowering Curtains. By GBO. R. SHOUP The plans show a house 20x50 which is designed to hold 300 Leghorn layers. Each bird has only 3'/} sq. ft. of floor space, but each also has 1000 sq. ft. to roam around in, and is far happier and more contented and will lay more eggs than though she had five "sq. ft., as in a house 8x12 with 20 birds. Walls. — In this climate double-wall construction is not necessary, and it is best to avoid it whenever possible. The double wall offers a convenient harbor for rats and mice as well as mites. Since the double wall is an expen- sive lu.xury, we advise doing away with the studding (the up-and-down 2x4's) entirely. To accomplish this we run the boards up and down. Along the top of the sill a 2.x2 strip is spiked on top of the sills all the way around and ■'4 of an inch from the outside edge. To this strip the boards are nailed, at the bottom, just flush with outside of the sill and resting on it. We insist that rear windows under the dropping boards are essential for the proper distribution of light so that the litter will not pile up. So in cutting boards for the rear wall, cut some of them the required length to cover the top of the window sash one inch. The inside of wall is then covered with a strip of light-weight asphalt paper, This paper is brought up two inches above the rear wall so that it can be cleated onto the ceiling or sheathing boards. This makes a per- fectly smooth inside wall which is both mite and wind- proof. The surfaced side of the lumber, which preferablv is dry 10-inch shiplap, is turned outside so that it can readily be painted. The dropping boards and windows cover the rest of the rear wall below the strip of asphalt paper on the inside, except the 12 to 15 inches between the windows, which should be whitewashed. The minimum height of rear wall should be 5 feet 4 inches, made by cutting a 16-foot board into three pieces. It should not be over 6 feet in any instance, as the roof of the roosting closet will be too far above the roosting birds to reflect PIG. 96— DIAGRAM OP FRONT, AND CURTAIN RAISING DEVICE FOR WEST. WASHINGTON LAYING HOUSE This illustration is reproduced from Western Washington Monthly Bulletin. It shows front of house for commer- cial laying flock, and method of adjusting curtain. See text for key to lettering. Complete plans on next page. 54 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES their own heat, which is essential for their comfort in cold weather. Run the boards up and down in the two ends also, with the smooth side out, covering all the inside with asphalt paper. Leave a three-foot opening for a door '•Comrr>e nc in/ Pot •IVeofenr) Wa,sh/n i.'jrpf?r/me/ FIG. 97 — PLANS FOR BUIUDING THE WESTERN WASHINGTON POULTRl' HOUSE FOR COMMERCIAL, FLOCKS House as here planned is to be built with a board floor, but a concrete floor is recommended wherever possible to provide it. The house for which this plan was originally prepared was to be equipped with trap-nests, but reg-ular platform nests may be used instead. Note the incline at each end of the house leading- up to door, which is 16 inches above ground level. Note, also, manner of constructing dust bath, shown in cross section at lower right-hand corner. Reproduced from West. Washington Monthly Bulletin. 6 feet 6 inches high. The front wall is seven feet high. It consists of one 12-inch board at the bottom, a 4-foot opening the entire length, and two 12-inch boards cleated together one above the other at the top. The 7-inch rafter notches are cut in the top board every 3 feet to correspond with the rear notches. Roof. — The front rafters are 2x6 inches 12-foot long and the rear 2x6 inches 14-foot long with a 3-foot eave in front and a 1-foot eave in the rear. This 3-foot eave in front gives a sightly appearance to the coop and af- fords the necessary protection to the opening with its curtain and the feed trough, which is required in this particularly rainy climate. We use an- 18-inch eave over the gable ends with a 6-inch face board. This protects the ends, and especially the doors, so that they don't swell up and refuse to latch The comb of the roof is 10 feet from the floor. Use 10-inch shiplap for the sheathing boards. Shingles make the most durable roof, but require an enorm- ous amount of labor and time to lay and are not as warm as the prepared roofing. The cost, exclusive of labor, is about the same. Use lx6-in. x 16-ft. for rafter collar beams, bringing them dow^n as low as is consistent with ample head room. These act as girds and really hold the building together. The Floor — If cement is used, use one and one-half inches of a 1-3-5 mixture for the base and one-half inch of a 1-1 mixture for the top. If boards, use 2x4 joists, supported every S feet on 4x4 sills, made of 2x4's spiked together. No. 3, 4-inch flooring gives a satisfactory chicken coop floor. Dusting Bath — Reserve 18 inches of the entire length of the front, floor area of. the coop for a dusting bath. This bath should be on the original soil, not on the floor of the coop. It should be at least 18 inches below the top of the 12-inch board retaining the litter. If on top of the real ground it will stay moist and give more satisfaction to the birds, and besides will not need replenishing nearly so often. If too near the top of the litter board the birds will hop out with several pounds of dirt on their feathers and immediately shake it off on the nice clean litter. This dust bath is placed where the sun strikes it and makes the ideal location for all the water and milk receptacles, which are set in racks directly over it. The rolling curtaixi illustrated in Fig. 96 can be either raised or lowered in a few seconds, and can easily be hand- led in one curtain 6 feet wide and 20 feet long by one winding of the crank at the end. When not in use it is rolled up at least a foot above the opening under the eave and is kept perfectly clean and dry and ready for instant use whenever needed. The anchor ropes L and K wind up as the curtain comes down, and lock it at any height the operator chooses. The guard rails J placed at intervals of about 20 feet prevent the curtain sagging out when a door of the coop is opened, and an outward pressure of air is created. The roller is built up of 2-inch half rounds, which are nailed firmly together, enclosing the bottom of the cur- tain. This roller can be made any desired length simply LAYING HOUSES TO MEET SPECIAL CONDITIONS 55 HI FIG. by breaking joints. The hoisting de- vice may be described as one main line rope (wire preferred) which is attached to the loose ends of a series of loops. One end of each of these loops is anchored to the building above the top of the curtain, Figs. D, F and E. The loop is then brought down under the roller and run through a small iron awning pul- ley, which has been fastened securely to the overhanging eave close to the place where the end of the loop i^ anchored. The loose ends of loops are then tied to the main line, adjust- ing them so that they all lift at the same time when the main line is tightened. The loop nearest the crank D, B, N, H, has to be carried back on the main line far enough so that the knot H does not block the pulley M when the main line is wound up in raising the curtain. This necessitates the use of the extra pulley N. All other loops are duplicates of G, C, F, and are placed at intervals of IS feet when a 2-inch roller is used and at every 10 feet when a smaller roller is used. CANADIAN FARM POULTRY HOUSE Houses Built After This Plan Are in Use in Nearly Every Province in Canada and Give Excellent Satisfaction. By PROP. F. C. Ea,FORD This house holds one hundred hens. It is 16x32 feet and is divided into two pens, each 16 feet square. The house has given satisfactory results on the experimental farms' system for several years. It has been used in every province in the Dominion and may be built with a single roof or with double roof and straw loft. At Ot- tawa the straw loft house has been drier but colder than the shed roof house. There has been absolutely no mois- ture in the litter or adhering to the walls of this house. Both houses are built without drop, boards, the roosts be- ing fastened to the wall and the nests are contained in a cabinet along the outside walls. No trenches are dug for the foundations, as the concrete slab which serves as both foundation and floor is laid directly upon the ground, the top being from 10 to 15 inches above the surrounding level. (See page 14 for method of constructing a con- crete slab floor. — Ed.) The walls consist of two by four studding, resting on 1 «i»> «jlliiiiiiiivm CANADIAN FARMER'S POULTRY HOUSE This house is a little above the average in cost, but in Canada, where the winters are long and severe, it pays to make the laying tlock^comforta- bie — in fact, is essential to good egg production at that season. Dominion Experiment Farms, Ottawa, Canada. Photo from FIG. 98— CROSS SECTION OF CONCRETE COMPART- MENT HOUSE Courtesy of Alpha Portland Cement Co. _ inch x4 inch — 340 lin. ft 227 (plus 10 % ) B64 a two by four sill, and supporting a plate of two 2x4's. These studs are covered outside with only one ply of tarred paper and one inch tongue-and-groove boarding, or one-inch boards and battens. On inside, behind and around the ends of the roosts, the studding is covered first with tarred paper, then with one inch tongue-and- groove boarding. Inside partitions are covered with wire mesh to within 2^/2 feet of floor, rest of partition one inch boarding. The rafters are two by fours covered with one inch sheeting and ready roofing, or, if preferred, tarred paper and good cedar shingles, laid 4J4 inches to the weather. Windows are built between studs as shown, and fitted with frames for glass, or cotton where indicated. All sashes to be hinged to swing in. Outside of all win- dow openings is covered with one inch wire mesh. IjIST of m,\terial, required for p.\rsi poultry house with gabiie roof and straw loft Studs, 2 inch x 4 inch— 262^4 lin. feet 175.5 Plate. 2 pes. 32 feet x 2 inch x 4 inch — 64 lin. ft 43 Sill, 2 pes. 32 feet x 2-inch x 4-inch — 64 lin. ft. ■" Sill, 2 pes. 16 feet x 2-inch x 4-inch — 32 lin. ft. Rafters, 24 pes. 10 feet Floor (T & G) 512 sq. : Roof boards, 680 sq. ft. Shingles. 680 sq. ft. One roll building paper. , , , ,„^^ oon Wall boarding (T & G) 800 sq. ft. (plus 10%)-.-..: ---,^80 Ceiling joists. 17 pes. 16 ft. x 2 in. x 4 in. — 272 lin. ft.. -.187 Ceiling boards, 68 pes. 32 ft. x 1 in. x 3 in.— 2176 lin. ft..384 2 windows 5 ft. x 5ft. and frames, cotton, and wire mesh. 2 windows %y- ft. x 5ft. and frames, cotton, and wire mesh. 4 windows 3 "ft. x 5 ft and frames, glass and wire mesh. 2 windows 3ft. x 3% ft. and frames, glass only. 2 doors 2 ft. 9 in. x 6 ft. 2 louvered windows 2 ft. x iV^ ft. Paint (3 coats), hardware (hinges, nails, etc.) FOR TWO-INCH COIVCRETE FLOOR 5 bbls. cement. 1% cu. yds. sand. 2% yds. gravel. A CONCRETE POULTRY HOUSE Practical Plans for Concrete Compartment House. Dry and Comfortable if Properly Constructed. Concrete is coming more and more into use for all kinds of farm buildings, and many concrete poultry houses have been built, giving good satisfaction as a rule. Con- crete walls are inclined to be damp, especially in wet weather, and some objection has been made to the use of this material on that account. However, dampness is largely a matter of ventilation, and cement manufacturers insist that if this is properly attended to there will be no difficulty. A concrete house with an alleyway, that can be built in any length and that is designed to serve either as a breeding house or laying house, is shown in Figs. 98 and 56 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES 100. This plan is furnished by the Alpha Portland Cement Co. and will readily be understood in its general details without a lengthy description. The floor should be laid of one part of cement to two parts of sand and three of stone or gravel. The wall mixture is given as 1 :2j4 :4. The proportions suggested for the floor seem to indicate that considerable stress is expected to be borne, which, of course, is seldom the case. It is probable, therefore, that a mixture of 1:2J4:4 will answer just as well for the floor. The plan here given calls for a four-inch wall, but a six- inch wall is recommended in general practice. This house as here illustrated provides four pens, each 11 feet x 12 feet 3 inches. The outside dimensions are 16x45 feet. In a general way the interior is similar to that shown in the six-pen breeding house, shown in Figs. 107 and 109- 113. The passageway partition, however, is somewhat different, as it is intended that all feed hoppers, troughs, water vessels, etc., shall be placed in the passageway, the fowls having access to them through slats placed in the partition under the nests. In the plan the passageway is three feet wide, but we would suggest that this be changed to four feet. A three-foot passageway obstructed by feed hoppers, water vessels, etc., will be found ex- tremely inconvenient. Four feet is none too wide for the purpose, the extra width being secured by making the house a foot wider or by taking it off of the pens. It will be noted that above the nests the partition is to be of solid cement plaster on metal lath. This is an ex- cellent feature and it will be a further improvement if the partitions betwen \he pens are all of similar construction for the first six feet back from the door, thus giving the fowls a three-sided roosting closet which will protect them from any air currents while on the perches. As will be seen in the cross-section, this house is provided with collar beams, on a level with the front plate and it will be an easy matter to provide a straw loft, covering the beams with narrow boards and filling in the space between them and the ridge with straw. If the floor of this house is properly constructed, it should be dry and warm, but the straw loft will greatly assist in keeping the house comfortable in severe weather. The perch sup- ports, of course, are to be hinged at the back to swing up out of the way when the platform is being cleaned. Straw Poultry Houses On farms where small grains are extensively grown and where the straw has little cash value, one of the least expensive poultry houses that can be built is a straw house. When properly built such a house will be found comfortable and healthful for the fowls and can be made convenient for the caretaker as well. Straw houses are seldom damp, and they are always warm in winter and cool in summer. The supporting frame should be substantial, as it has to carry a heavy weight, and the straw roof must be carefully built in order to insure its being rain-proof. In building straw sheds or houses it is especially important to pack the straw by persistent tramping as the walls are built up, otherwise the straw will settle and separate along the line where walls and top meet. If the inside of the house is lined with poultry netting, this will prevent the fowls from picking and scratching the straw from the walls, which they are certain to do if no protection is provided. Avoid trouble with mites by keeping perches away from walls. Jhowingf Exterior, Jouth I^l?-\/at ion Jhowing Interior- i"i II II ni I I Ilk"? '■'■ ;; 1 '■ >' FIG. 100 — PL.ANS FOR COMPARTMENT HOUSE BUILT OF CONCRETE CHAPTER V Comfortable Houses for Breeding Pens Why Houses for Breeding Pens Should Be Especially Designed— Plans for Low-Cost Buildings Accommodating^One and Two Small Flocks— Comfortable Houses that Can Be Built to Provide for Any Desired Number of Pens- Breeding Houses for Cold and Moderate Climates— Plans Designed to Save Time and Labor of Attendant and to Provide Most Favorable Conditions for Fowls. y^^ iIE chief requirements of breeding houses, as com- l) pared with laying houses, are that the former should be more warmly constructed, and they usually are smaller in size, as it seldom is desir- able to keep breeding fowls in large flocks. Breeding pens generally are allowed more floor space than would be given to the same number of fowls in regular laying flocks. For this reason there is comparatively little bodily heat available for warming their house or pen, and this must be offset by warmer construction. Where several pens are to be kept in a compartment house, a passageway along the rear usually is provided, in order to economize time and avoid disturbing the fowls un- duly in regular daily care. ONE-PEN BREEDING HOUSE Convenient House for Small Breeding Pen. With Elevated Dust Box, Equipped By K. W. C.\RMEN For a breeding house for one small pen, the one illustrated in Fig. 101 is practical and con- venient. Note especially the arrangement for a sunny dust box, which will be greatly enjoyed by the fowls in winter when it is impossible for them to get outdoors. With breeding stock it is espec.ally necessary to take all practical steps to insure the comfort of the fowls, if fer- tile, strongly vitalized eggs are to be produced in the win- ter months. The house is 14 feet long 10 feet wide, seven feet high in front and six feet in the rear, with shed roof. It may be built singly, or two or more in a row. The frame is made of 2.n;4 hemlock, and the siding, drop, boards, etc , are of N. C. pine, eight inches wide. The back, sides and roof are covered with tarred paper, and the roof has an extra covering of roofing paper. Give the floor a good layer of sand and then put about six inches of hay or straw on that. In the front of the building, on the west side, 18 inches above the floor, is a dust box three feet wide, six feet long and eight inches deep. Eigh- teen inches of this box projects beyond the front of the building, and when the sash is in position the whole thing forms a sort of bay window. You will be surprised to see how the chickens enjoy a dust bath in this window. Under the part that comes in the building build six nest boxes about 12x14 inches. Over the dust box (with the top hinged to the building and the bottom resting on the outer edge of the box) is a hot bed sash Jn6 feet. This sash can be raised in warm weather, and with a cover over it for a sunshade, it is a fine, cool place for biddy. The door to the pen is in the front near the east side and is divided mto two equal parts, top and bottom, each part being 3x3 feet. A curtain three feet square is used for the upper half and is hinged on the outside. This curtain is very useful on stormy days when the vvind blows hard. The roost platform is two feet from the ground and is four feet wide and seven feet long. To make the platform, we batten six pieces of eight-inch boards together and board up where the end of the roost comes, allowing the boards on the end to go two inches below the roost platform so the platform has a cleat to slide on, and in that way it is an easy matter to remove and clean. Make the roost poles of 2x3 material and round the upper edges. Secure them at the ends by patent brackets, or notch out a block and nail on each side of them to fit in. They are placed six inches above the plat- form, the rear one being 14 inches away from the back of the building, and the front one 18 inches from the back one. This house will take about 600 square feet of boards, IS wall strips 14 feet long, six rolls of tar paper and three rolls of roofing paper, besides one hot bed sash 3x6 and four pairs of hinges, nails, etc. SMALL TWO-PEN BREEDING HOUSE The House Used in Connecticut Egg Laying Contest. Accommodates Two Breeding Flocks of 12 to 16 Fowls Each. By ROY E. JONES lind LESLIE E. C.VRD • Frequently the back-yard poultryman who is sys- tematically breeding, either for exhibition quality or to establish a high egg-laying strain, needs a convenient house for two or more small pens. For this purpose the house used in the International Egg-Laying Contest at PIG. 101— PLANS FOR BUILDING ONE-PEN BREEDING HOUSE 58 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 102 — CROSS SECTION OF TWO-PEN BREEDING Reproduced from Bulletin SI, Storrs (Conn.) Experiment the Connecticut (Storrs) Experiment Station is especially desirable. This house is 12x12 feet, 6 feet high at the eaves and 8 feet 4 inches at the peak. It is divided through the mid- dle in order to accommodate two pens. With the partition removed- it would afford sufficient capacity for 30 to 35 hens. For ordinary use, where it is not desired to trap- nest, the back may be cut down at least a foot and the roof made two-thirds instead of even span, thus reducing the air space and making the house warmer. The house, as shown, gives more head room for the attendant, and this is important when birds are being trapnested and many trips have .to be made to the back part of each pen. Fig. 104 shows a general view of this house, indicating size and location of doors and cloth curtains. The muslin curtains are hinged at the top and swing in, being fastened up by means of hooks made from thin strap iron. Fig. 102 is a cross section of the house. The windows slide toward the front. The roosts and droppings boards are movable, as are also the trapnests which are hung beneath the drop- pings boards. The exit door for the hens slides up and down and is held open by means of a piece of wire looped over a nail in the door. The 2x3-inch girder across the end of the house is placed in such a way as to support the droppings boards at one end and the win- dow at the other. The feeding rack, which supplies both pens, is made of slats so that all filth may fall through to the floor. A large enough opening is left above to admit a drinking pan which supplies both pens. The feedmg rack also supports a mash hopper in each pen. Small removable boxes for grit, shell and charcoal are fastened to the parti- tion above the feeding rack and within easy reach. The rear half of the partition between the pens is boarded up solid, while the front half is boarded for only two feet from the floor, or to the level of the curtain sill in front, the upper part being made of two-inch mesh wire netting. The house is being used with a dirt floor, but is so constructed that a board floor may be put in if it is found desirable. Following is a bill of materials for this house: BILL, OP MATERIALS Slvids — 2 pieces, 4x6 in., 14 ft. Studding — 12 pieces, 2x3 in., 12 ft. Rafters — 5 pieces, 2x3 in., 14 ft. Matched boards — 700 feet, board measure. Roofing paper — 4 rools. Windows — 2 sash, each containing: 6-10x12 in. lights. Unbleached muslin — 3 yards, 36 in. wide. Wire — 25 feet 2 in. mesh, 36 in. wide. Nails — 10 lbs. 8d. 5 lbs. lOd, 4 lbs. 20d. Hinges — 4 loose-pin butts for curtains, 4 T-hinges for doors. Locks or latches for doors. w HOUSE Station. From Bulletin 81, Storrs (Conn.) Exp. Staticm. FIG. 103 — FLOOR PLAN OF TWO-PEN BREEDING HOUSE Reproduced from 3ul. 81, Storrs (Conn.) Exp. Station. FIG. 104— PRACTICAL HOUSE FOR TWO SMALL BREEDING PENS Photo from Storrs (Conn.) Exp. Station. THE MINNESOTA MODEL HOUSE Especially Recommended for Breeding Flocks. Also is An Excellent House for Regular Laying Flocks Where Winters Are Severe. By PROF. .\. C. SMITH This house is designed to meet the requirements of the average Minnesota poultry keeper, particularly the farmer, and it is believed that it does this to an unusual extent. The four principal faults to be found with or- dinary poultry houses, particularly as they apply to Min- nesota conditions, are: 1. They are not well constructed, and consequently are too cold in winter. Much better egg production might be had during the winter months if the houses were more comfortable. 2. They have a poor system of ventilation, if any. COMFORTABLE HOUSES FOR BREEDING PENS 59 This results in the house being too damp or too cold. In many houses no provision whatever is made for ven- tilation, other than leaving the door open for a certain length of time on a. mild day, which in this climate very often cools the house too much. Even when provision for ventilation is made, it is often by a system that does not give opportunity for sufficient regulation to meet changes in the weather, as by hinged windows or muslin frames, which must, from the nature of their construction, be either closed, and supply insufficient ventilation, or wide open, when frequently altogether too much cold air enters and altogether too much heat escapes. For the above reasons, particularly when south winds pievail dur- ing cold weather, these hinged windows or curtains must be closed. Through glass windows no moisture escapes, and through muslin too little escapes, because it is too closely woven. Houses with insufficient ventilation are always damp, and the air they confine is impure. The odor in such a house is always offensive, even if the impure air is not a menace to health, which might be questioned. Dampness' is, beyond doubt, the greatest menace to good health and good production in the poul- try house. 3. Poor floors. Earthen floors, the top of which is below the outside level, make the houses very damp and uncomfortable. Wooden floors are hard and are often very cold, unless covered with a deep litter of straw or leaves — and even these should be on top of a three or four-inch layer of fine sand. In the absence of sand or loam, shavings probably make the best substitute. 4. There is no provision for separating the flock. There are many seasons during the year when it is most advantageous to separate the flock. In the fall there often are many surplus cockerels, not ready for market, which cannot be kept with the females except to the detriment of both; for under such conditions the cockerels gain very little weight, and the females being constantly an- noyed, develop slowly and lay poorly. To get a good return for food and care, the cockerels must be separated from the females. If the hatches were early, the cock- erels should be sold before it becomes necessary to house them, because the price will be considerably higher than later in the season, when the market is glutted with stock. A two-pen house is advantageous in that the pullets and hens of the flock may be separated. Pullets are sure to be intimidated by the older birds, and do much better when kept in separate flocks. In the spiing, again, a two-pen house is a distinct advantage, since the most rugged and healthy specimens may be separated and used exclusively as breeders. These may be allowed more room per bird, fed differently, and provided with greater range, while the balance of the flock is forced for eggs. When these existing conditions are considered, it is be- lieved that the following features of this plan will meet the approval of poultry keepers in general: The fundamental idea in ventilating a poultry house is to expel the impure air as well as the excess of moisture, and to retain at the same time sufficient heat to make the house comfortable; which last, in the coldest weather, means all the heat that can be retained while expelling excessive moisture and impure air. A simple ventilating device adopted for this house places the con- trol of the ventilation absolutely in the caretaker's hands. It is, however, recognized that all ventilation in a poultry house must come from one direction — that is, drafts can- not be tolerated. By hanging the windows with weights and pulleys as they are ordinarily hung in dwellings, a greater or lesser volume of air — depending upon the will of the caretaker — may be allowed to enter. This will be found equally ad- vantageous in winter and summer, and makes it unneces- sary to remove the sash, even in very hot weather, since by raising the lower sash three or four inches and drop- ping the upper to the level of the lower, good circulation is established. The object in raising the lower sash no more than three or four inches and lowering the upper to the same level, is two-fold, but the main reason for so doing is that the large opening, which is in this way pro- vided at the upper section, permits a large volume of hot air to escape. .A secondary reason is that, with the lower sash no higher, the fowls cannot roost upon or soil the windowsill, whereby just so much cleaning is eliminated. During the winter it is convenient to drop the upper sash a little through the day to let the dust and moisture out. In the Minnesota Model Poultry House the ventila- tion secured in this way might be called emergency ven- tilation, or, perhaps, ventilation according to season, the constant ventilation or the ventilation depended upon dur- ing winter, coming chiefly through openings above the windows. These openings may be covered or not, and in two ways: on one side of the inside frame is hinged a burlap-covered frame, while on the other a solid wooden door is hinged. Obviously the caretaker has three options: He may leave the opening entirely uncovered^as he cer- tainly should during warm weather and upon an occa- PJ20NT eLEVATJON -- CROSS SECTION -FRONT ELEVATION AND CROSS SECTION OF MINNESOTA MODEL POUI..TRY HOUSE Reproduced from Minnesota Farm Inst. Annual No. 27. 60 POISILTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 107 — DETAIL. OP PEN FRONT IN SIX-PEN BREEDING HOUSE sionally mild day in midwinter, particularly if the building has for any cause become damp, as will be the case if frost accumulates on the walls and vaporizes so rapidly that the air will not hold the moisture and the litter be- comes damp from the drip — a situation which may be • avoided by opening both the wooden door and the burlap frame. Secondly, the caretaker may close the opening with the burlap frame. This is the method of securing ventilation during cold weather. The coarse meshes of the burlap do not clog with dust as the finer meshes of cotton do, and they allow the moisture to escape, while retaining considerable heat and preventing a draft. In ordinary winter weather, during the day, ventilation should be obtained through this burlap, while on very cold nights the wooden door should close the opening. Clearly, it is not necessary to treat all three openings alike at the same time, since one only, or two, may be opened. A cement foundation wall is best and most desirable for three reasons: First, it is most durable; second, it gives better support to the frame than posts or pillars; third, almost every poultry-keeper in these days is famil- iar with simple cement construction. The wall should be one foot thick at base and eight inches at the top, and should be fifteen inches above the ground-level. This construction allows the door to swing over the litter, which is a convenience. When there is a supply of gravel or sand on the farm, or this material can be obtained without too great ex- pense, a floor of gravel and sand or gravel and loam is advised, on account of its naturainess. and comfort. Fill in at bottom with three inches of coarse gravel or small stones; then four inches of finer gravel, covering with a little clay, and roll or tramp hard. This will make a good cleaning-line. Next cover with four inches of fine saad or dry loam, or a mixture of both. This last layer should be cleaned out every summer and replaced by a fresh, clean supply. The layer of sand has a fertilizing value after it has been in the house for a year. If it is sifted when put in, it makes a suitable top-dressing for lawns or hay-fields. Nail matched boards, running up and down, to outside of frame. Paint at once with two coats to avoid shrinkage. If a warmer house is desired, cover the walls with double-ply tarred paper, in one or two layers, as de- sired. If a still warmer, better-looking, or more expen- sive house is desired cover this with shingles or siding. When the wall consists of but one thickness of boards, this house may be built at as little cost as it is possible to construct a comfortable and durable poultry house. On the other hand, when the wall consists of two thicknesses of boards with one or more thicknesses of building paper — or, better still, two thicknesses of double- ply tarred paper between the boards, the house becomes not only very warm and comfortable, but an attractive farm building; and if kept in repair and painted, will so remain indefinitely. Furthermore, this evolution from a single wall to one with double thickness of boards, be- tween which is a double layer of paper, may take place at the time of building, or it may progress as gradually as the owner decides. For the roof, matched boards and good, heavy roofing paper will be found entirely satisfactory. Because a great deal of heat may escape otherwise, the roof should be tightly built; hence matched boards are necessary with either shingles or roofing paper. It is folly carefully to build a warm and tight wall to hold the heat, and then cover the building with a loosely constructed roof which will certainly allow the heat to escape, making the house colder by several degrees. Other specifications, dimen- sions, etc., will be found on the accompanying plan. (See Figs. 105, 106, and 108.) tNP E-LEVAT/ON ^ — Ir-LOOn PLAM - FIG. lOS— FLOOR PLAN AND END ELEVATION OF MINNESOTA MODEL, POULTRY HOUSE Reproduced from Minnesota Farm. Inst. Annual No. 27. COMFORTABLE HOUSES FOR BREEDING PENS 61 LIST OF MATERIALS FOR MI.WESOTA MODEL POULTRY HOUSE Sills 6 pes. 2x4, 16 ft. Studding — Rear wall 3 p Ends 1 1 long. , 2x4, 12 ft. long. , 3.\4, 14 ft. long. 1 PC. 2n4, 14 ft. long. 1 PC. 2x4. 12 ft. long. Front 5 pes. 2x4, 16 ft. long. 3 pes. 2x4. 12 ft. long. Plates 4 pes. 2x4, IG ft. long. Nailing pieces between sill and plate — Rear wall 3 pes. 2x4, 12 ft West wall 1 pe, 2x4, 16 ft East wall 1 pc. 2x4, 12 ft Front wall 1 pc. 2x4, 20 ft. Rafters 16 pes. 2x6, 18 ft Roosts 5 pes. 2x6, 10 ft Platform support — Cross pieces.. ..1 pc. 2x4, 16 ft, Verti'l posts....l pc. 2x4, 12 ft Verti'l posts. ...1 pc. 2x4, 16 ft Nest supports.. .-1 pc. 2x4. 12 ft. Water stand 2 pes. 2x4, 16 ft, Matched Boards Rear 35 Ends .^ 38 Front -..-- - - 23 Roof 83 Partition 20 Roosting platform 18 Nest platform 3 Top of nests 5 Cut to 5% ft. Cut one 8 ft., one Cut one 8 ft., one Cut one 8 ft., one Cut 7 ft. 8 in. Cut '3 ft. 6 in. Front and rear. long, long, long, long, long, long. Ripped to 2x3. long, long, long, long, long. pes. pes. pes. pes. pes. pes. 4 pes. 1x4 pine No. 4 pes. 1x8 pine No. 2 pes. 1x2 pine No. roof paper. 1 pe. 1x4 pine No. 1 pe. 1x5 pine No. 1 pe. 1x4 pine No. 1 PC. 1x5 pine No, pes Pinisli Lumber com. S2S, 16 ft. com. S2S, 16 ft. com. S2S. 16 ft. 4 ft. P & M bds.. D & M bds., D & M bds.. D & M bds., D & M bds., D & M bds., D & M bds., D & M bds.. Roof. Cornice. To hold ends 12 ft. 14 ft. 16 ft. 16 ft. 14 ft. 16 ft. 16 ft. 12 ft. 1 pc. 1 PC. 1 pc. 1 pc. 2 pes. 2 pes 1 com. S2S. 12 ft, 1 com. S2S, 14 ft, 1 com. S2S, 16 ft 1 com. S2S, 16 ft, 1x4 pine No. 1 com. S2S, 18 ft, 1x6 pine No. 1 com. S2S, 16 ft, 1x4 pine No. 1 com. S2S. 16 ft, 1x4 pine No. 1 com. S2S. 16 ft 1x4 pine, S2S. Cleats fo 1x4 pine, 18 ft. For finish Rear corner. Rear corner. Front corner. Front corner. Door finish. Door cleats. Part, door cleat. Finish on Part. door, osting and nest Plat, upper open windows. 3 pes. 1x4, 10 ft. For inside box on upper window. 3 pes. ^x4, 10 ft. For inside box on upper window. 1 pc. 1x15, 10 ft. Equipment for small upper doors. 1 pe. 1x12. 4 ft. For lower sliding doors. FIG. Ill— CROSS SECTION OF SIX-PEN BREEDING HOUSE Wooden door may be made from a 15-ineh board, in which case it would be advisable to put cleats on back to prevent warping. Matched stock bound by cleats may be used. Fitlinss — 3 windows 10x12, 12 light, 1% inch sash glazed; 3 window frames 10x12, 12 light, % inch casings, 2x6 sills; 1 door frame, 2 ft. by 8 in. by 6 ft. 8 in., l^i in. oak sill. Roofing? — 6 squares of roofing (rubberoid or equal) for roof. 7 squares of double-ply tarred paper or other of equal quality and thickness if wall is to be covered. HardAvnre — 6 lb. 20d wire spikes; 20 lbs. 8d common wire nails: 2 lbs. Sd finishing nails; lO^/gxlO in. bolts, with two washers each to fasten sills to foundation; 2 pairs 6-ineh heavy T hinges (galvanized); 3 pairs 6-inch hooks and eyes; 1 6-inch hinge, hasp and staple: 1 padlock; 2 pairs 3-ineh heavy hinges: 2 4-inch hooks and eyes. Material for Foundation Portland cement; 4 yards sand. Roof 5hiEiOl-h^d W'H> I" 5hsof-h!r,g and SheoM'^j' XX f^usl'rt Coversci Frames S'-S" X 3'-S" X SasbeS /?" Tbic^ lO" % fZ" Sk Hinged oi- Top in Roohei-isd Fi-^TreS 62 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES ¥ PIG. 112 — DETAIL OF FEED TROUGH AND WATER VESSEL IN BREEDING HOUSE The feed trough, hinged at bottom, is shown open for filling from the passageway, in Fig. 1. A cross section of open trough is shown in Fig. 2. When feed is placed in trough and closed it is in position shown in Pig. 3, and fowls in pen have full access to contents. Door giving access to water vessel is also shown in Fig. 1, while Fig. 5 shows door closed. Fig. 4 shows cross section of trough when open for filling. CONVENIENT EIGHT-PEN BREEDING HOUSE Just Right for a Number of Single Pens. Passageway Simplifies Care of Flocks and Avoids Dis- turbing the Fowls. Poultrymen, as a rule, do not now favor laying houses with a passageway in the rear, and there are a number of practical objections to this feature. Under some condi- tions, however, and especially when a number of small breeding pens are to be provided for, such passageways are quite convenient. The plan shown herewith has proved especially satisfactory. This house may be built any length, but as here out- lined is 96 feet 6 inches long and 16 feet wide, with a three-foot alleyway. There are eight pens, each with a capacity of 25 to 35 hens in laying flocks and about half this number if the birds are to be used as breeders. Board floor and post foundation are indicated, but a concrete foundation and floor will be found to be much cheaper in the long run, as well as more sanitary and durable, also rat-proof. If a board floor is decided upon it should be made double, as shown in Fig. 14, on page 16, especi- ally where winters are cold. All walls are ceiled with ^-inch beaded ceiling, but no ceiling is provided overhead, though this is recommended for extreme cli- mates. The roof is supported on a 4x4-inch girder resting on 2x4-inch studs that form part of the alleyway partition. One by six- inch tie pieces are run from the rear wall to the alleyway stud*, as in Fig. Ill, and no other tying or bracing is required. In order to protect the combs of valuable breeders, a roosting closet is provided in each pen. Canvas partitions extend from the drop- pings boards to the roof and the alley parti- tion back of the perches also is canvas, the lower part being made in the form of a shut- ter so that the platform may be cleaned from the alley. In front of the perches a muslin- covered shutter is provided (see Fig. Ill) which can be lowered after the fowls have gone to roost. When enclosed in this roosting closet there is practically no danger of combs and wattles being injured by freezing, no matter how cold it may get. As ventilation is generally inadequate under such con- ditions, however, the front curtain should only be let down in the sever- est weather. In order to prevent drafts through the house, alternate cross-partitions are ceiled from floor to roof. The other cross-partitions are boarded up tight to a height of three feet from the floor and covered with two-inch mesh netting from that point to the roof. For the breeding pert, trap-nests should be used. Full details of differ- ent styles of such nests are given in Chapter X. Fig. 110 shows the floor plan of this house, with arrangements of par- titions, droppings platforms, perches, etc., clearly indicated. Fig. 109 gives front elevation, showing windows, muslin shutters, yards, doors, etc. Fig. Ill is a cross section of the house, showing par- MuSlln lijindon^ -'_-°i: fp^TS* Openings- -FRAMING FRONT OP BREEDING HOUSE tition, nests, and a cross -section of the roosting closet. Note that the outside doors of the house are double boarded,, inside boards being placed diagonally and outside boards perpendicularly. Fig. 107 gives a section of the pen front or inside elevation of pen, showing partition doors, wire partition, canvas doors in front of perches and solid canvas partition from perches to roof. FIG. 114 — PARTITION IN BREEDING HOUSE FOR MILD CLIMATES Reproduced from Farmers' Bulletin 574, U. S. Department of Agriculture. COMFORTABLE HOUSES FOR BREEDING PENS 63 BILl, OP MATERIALS FOR BREEDING HOUSE Us luchc Sills, sides 4x6 Sills, sides 2x4 Sills, end 4x6 Joists 2x6 Girder 4x6 Plates 2x4 Studs, front 2x4 Studs, back 2x4 Studs, ends 2x4 Studs, partitions 2x4 Short studs and misc.... 2x4 Ridge plate 4x4 Ridge 1x6 Rafters 2x6 Rafters 2x4 Rafter ties 1x6 Support for drop. plat.. 2x4 Perches 2x4 Roof boards 1x10 T & G siding 1x6 snibfloor 1x10 Matched flrg., top fl....y8x4 Matched flrg. for drop. plat., doors, etc %x4 Beaded ceiling for walls ceilings & partitions 3-16x4 Barge boards %x6 Sills for windows, etc.. 1^x8 Frame for windows and doors %x6 Weather strips %x% Trim lumber %x4 Frames for muslin shutter, perch shut- ters, perch supports and misc %x3 Nest doors 1x8 Partition door frame. ... 1x4 Partition door frame... 1x3 Furring for bridging.... 1x2 28 25 7 35 20 10 10 50 25 9 8 1 piece cuts 2 1 piece cuts 2 1 piece cuts 2 1 piece cuts 1 1 piece cuts 2 1 piece cuts 2 8 2000 1650 1700 2000 bd. bd. bd. bd. meas. meas. meas. Surfaced 300 bd. meas. 4300 250 150 bd. lin. lin. feet.' feet. Surfaced Surfaced 350 170 500 lin. lin. lin. feet, feet, feet. Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced 600 60 25 150 500 lin. lin. lin. lin. lin. feet, feet, feet feet, feet. Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Gal vanized doors, wire staples and wood triggers for forty nests. squares of prepared roofing. squares of waterproof sheathing paper for the floor, check rail windows, 12-light, 10xl2-inch glass, sq. ft. of 2-inch mesh poultry netting for partitions, eltc. sq. ft. of 1-inch mesh netting for windows and open front, sq. ft. of muslin for shutters and perch curtains, sq. ft. of canvas for alley and end partitions. pr. 8-inch T-trap hinges, outside doors. 6-inch hasps, pr. 3-inch hinges for partition doors. doz. pr. 2V4-inch butt hinges for muslin shutters, canvas doors and nest doors. 2-inch screw hooks and eyes. pr. 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports, pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows, doz. sash bolts, feet chain for sash adjusters. Nails, tacks, paint, etc. FIG. 115— FLOOR PLAN OF ONE COMPARTMENT IN BR Reproduced from Farmers' Bulletin 574, U. S. Dept MATERIAL FOR FORTY TRAP-NESTS Sides and bottoms %x4 230 bd. meas. Surfaced Top rails of partition %x2 50 lin. feet. Surfaced Top rails of ends '^xl% 50 lin. feet. Surface^ Bottom ralLs of ends %x3 50 lin. feet. Surfaced Side rails of ends : %x2 50 lin. feet. Surfaced Strips %x% 80 lin. feet. Surfaced Partition strip %x2% 50 lin. feet. Surfaced Galvanized iron doors, wire staples, and triggers. M.\TERIALS FOR FOUNDATION AND FI.OOR If a concrete foundation and floor are preferred, the fol- lowing materials %vill be required, the joists, girders and flooring as specified in the lumber bills, being omitted. 140 sacks of Portland cement. 285 cu. ft. of sand. 600 cu. ft. of gravel or stone. 400 cu. ft. of gravel or broken stone for drainage and in- sulation. BREEDING HOUSE FOR MILD CLIMATES Used On Government Poultry Farm Near Washington^ D. C. Suitable for Laying Flocks Where Win- ters Are Not Too Severe. By HARRY M. LAMON (The experimental farm of the Bureau of Animal In- dustry, U. S. Department of Agriculture, is located at Beltsville, a short distance out of Washington, D. C. Here a liberal tract of land has been set aside for experi- mental work with poultry, under the capable direction of Harry M. Lamon, head of the Poultry Division. The house here illustrated and described has been in success- ful use on this farm for several years and also has served as a model for general use in other parts of the country. While the original house is used for breeding pens, the plan is well adapted to the requirements of laying flocks, simply changing width of pens to accommodate flocks of desired size. — Ed.) This house, known as the "long breeding house," is 180 feet long, 18 feet deep, and is divided into pens nine feet wide. At one end there is a two-story, building, 20 feet by 36 feet. The first floor contains an office room and bins for feed. The upper floor has sleeping quarters for the men and rooms for storage. Un- derneath is an incubator cellar of the same dimensions. The equipment of this poultry house is extiemely simple. The droppings boards are on the north side, two and one-half feet from the floor, and the roosts are about fifteen inches from the wall and eight inches from the drop- pings boards. The roosts are on hinges and are very convenient to handle when the droppings boards are to be cleaned. Then there is a pen next to the roosts, four feet ten inches deep and three feet wide, for breaking up broody hens. The nests are placed under the droppings boards, are portable and can easily be removed for cleaning and when it is necessary to replenish the nesting ma- material, which, by the way, is attended to often. Great care is taken to clean the nest thoroughly, should an egg be- come broken in any of them, as soon as the broken egg is discovered. The nest is a great harboring place for mites if it becomes dirty and filthy. There is a platform two feet by two EBDINC HOUSE ^^^^ '" ^'^^ '^"'^ '^^° ^^^' from the floor, Agriculture. for holding the drinking dish. Each 64 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES PIG. 116— CROSS SECTION OP BREEDING HOUSE POR MILD CLIMATES Reprodviced from Farmers' Bui. 574, U. S. Dept. of Agriculture. pen contains a V-shaped trough for feeding wet mash or other feeds, a hopper on the south wall for the dry mash feed, and about four to six inches of dry straw is kept on the floor. It is intended to put a concrete floor in this house, but up to the present time a dirt floor is being used. There are frames covered with muslin on the inside of the open front, to be let down in stormy weather, and yards 18 feet by 200 feet. Division fences are boarded 30 inches high from the ground with five-foot poultry-proof wire fencing above. It will be noted that this arrange- ment of yards allows each pen the use of a yard at least every other day, as the pens are 9x18. The following bill of materials for this house is taken from Farmers' Bulletin No. 574. also the plans shown in Figs. 114, IIS, 116 and 118. BILI, OP MATERIALS Use Size Inches Sills 2x4 Plates (double) 2x4 Ties for rafters 1x5 Rafters 2xS Rafters 2x6 Studs 2x4 Studs (front) 2x4 Roosts 2x3 Sheathing- surfaced one side, for roof 2860 ft. Matched flooring for walls, partitions, dropping-s board 3200 ft. Boards planed both sides for nests - 300 ft. 340 running feet of lx3-inch furring tor curtain frames. 300 sq. ft. of %-inch megh wire netting for front. 300 sq. ft. 2-inch mesh wire netting for partitions. 350 sq. ft. of muslin cloth for curtains. 8 outside doors. Prepared roofing paper to cover 2700 sq. ft. Hardware (hinges, nails, staples, etc.) A BUILDING BLOCK HOUSE Block Houses Are Especially Suitable for Breeding Pens in Cold Climates. Concrete Blocks Can Be Sub- stituted for Tile. Poultry houses constructed of build- ing blocks are particularly desirable, though somewhat expensive for ordi- nary use. The dead-air space between inner and outer walls, which is pro- duced by the hollow blocks, makes the house warm in winter and cool in sum- mer, and if properly ventilated it always will be dry. Block houses are easily kept clean and sanitary and afford few harboring places for mites or lice. Nothing but the high cost of building, this way prevents the use of tile blocks in poultry houses of all kinds. When carelessly constructed such houses are not particularly pleasing in appearance, but with careful workmanship they can be made quite attractive, as is the case in the house illustrated in Fig. 117, which is one of the poultry buildings at Iowa State College. This house is built of tile blocks, but concrete blocks No. of Length Boaid Pieces Feet Measure 30 12 240 ft 44 12 352 ft 30 16 220 ft 56 14 784 ft 56 10 560 ft. 38 12 304 ft. 28 8 150 ft 36 8 144 ft FIG. 117— BUILDING BLOCK HOUSE AT IOWA STATE COLLEGE FIG. 118— FRONT ELEVATION OP BREEDING HOUSE Reproduced from Farmers' Bulletin 574, U. S. Department of Agriculture. can be used where the former are not available. It is 14x100 feet with a plain shed roof and is divided into five pens 14x20 feet each, providing comfortably for a breed- ing flock from about 40 to 50 hens. If single pens are preferred instead of flock matings, temporary partitions can be used, thus affording accommodations for ten breeding flocks of 15 to 20 fowls. The house is built with a concrete floor, and the general interior ar- rangement is similar to that shown in other houses in this chapter. Ventilation is provided by special- ly constructed windows consisting of narrow sashes arranged in sets of four — three sets for each 20-foot pen. These sashes are balanced on dowel pins turning in holes in the sides of the window casing, and are connected by means of a chain so that by rais- ing and lowering the chain, each set of sashes can be adjusted to uniform position at a single operation, thus providing any degree of ventilation. CHAPTER VI Portable Colony and Brooder Houses The Convenience and Economy of Suitable Portable Houses for Use Either With Adult Flocks, Growing Stock, or Brooder Chicks- How to Secure Substantial, Low-Cost Construction — Plans for Houses Adapted for Use Either in Brooding Chicks or for Laying and Breeding Pens — How to Build Houses in Sections for Easy Moving — Practical Piano-Box Houses, Etc. y^^ HERE are few poultry plants or farms that do not V J need at least some portable houses. The uses to mm which they can be put are so numerous that they SESh seldom stand idle for any length of time. While it usually is not practical to keep laying flocks in such houses, owing to the small size of the flocks that can be accommodated, they often can be profitably used for that purpose. They also make ideal quarters for small breed- ing flocks and are indispensable for brooding chicks, re- gardless of the method of brooding practiced. After the chicks no longer need artificial heat, the house may be hauled to outlying fields and the growing stock given the complete liberty that is so essential to normal growth and development. The principal features to keep in min.l in building any sort of portable house are that there must be sufficient head room to make the work of caring for the houses convenient: the houses must not be too large to be moved by available means; and, as a rule, they should be provided with double floors, or carefully braced, so that they will not be racked in hauling them about. M.-)ving, especially over uneven ground, puts a severe strain on such struc- tures and they will quickly be pulled apart unless well built. The material used for sills or runner-sills should be of the most durable timber available; chestnut and cedar are good. White oak, if well seasoned, may be used, but adds to the weight. Throughout the house, light-weight lumber should be used as far as possible. A house built of oak or similar hard wood will weigh a great deal more than one built of white pine. It is not advisable to try to cut down weight by using thin boards or small framing timbers. Such material will not hold up long in a house that is to be moved frequently. Regular ^-inch boards and 2x4 joists and studs are essential to durability. Where these houses are to be used for laying flocks it is conven- ient to have the nests on the outside of the building, thus increasing the floor space. Such nests must be carefully built, however, and should be located on the side least exposed to storms, as it is difficult to prevent rain and snow from blowing in. Small, shallow houses necessarily bring the fowls up close to the front when on perches, and special provision must be made to protect them from drafts if open fronts are to be used. With houses of the shed-roof type, such as the colony house shown in Fig. 124, it is practicable to make the window half glass and half muslin shutter, placing the latter above and opening it when necessary to secure proper ventilation, but leaving the glass sash in place except in warm weather. For moving portable houses a coupl.^ of hooks, simi lar to the one illustrated in Fig. 123, attached to a stout chain 10 or 12 feet long, are most convenient. Make the hook of % or ^-inch iron, with the hook part about fout inches long, and pointing forward a little, rather than with a square or right-angled turn. If this is done it will not be so liable to slip out of the hole in the runner under a heavy strain. In England, where portable houses are ex- tensively rsed, small wheels are often employed in place of runners. A GABLE ROOF PORTABLE HOUSE Will Accommodate Twenty-Five to Thirty Hens, or May Be Used for Lamp-Heated and Colony Hovers. The house illustrated in Figs. 119, 120, 121, and 122 was designed at the Pennsylvania Agricultural College and has been in use there for some years. It offers a practical solution of the problem of building a house that will meet the requirements of both brooding and laying house. It is about as large as can be moved by one team, requires a minimum of lumber for the floor space enclosed and gives plenty of head room without high walls. If the house is to be used for a colony hover the front window at the end opposite the door can be omitted, but where lamp-heated FIG. 119— A GABLE ROOF PORTABLE HOUSE hovers are to be used, as illustrated in Fig. 121, the orig- inal arrangement is better, as it gives more even distribu- tion of light. This house is regularly built with flooring boards oi car siding for the sides and with a double floor, as shown in Fig. 14. Rafters are provided in the bill of material, but the original houses were built without rafters, the rod boards being run up and down and nailed securely to gether at the ridges, which construction is firm enough for all practical purposes. Fig. 122 shows floor plan as arranged for winter use of the laying or breeding flock. The floor is laid on 3x6- inch chestnut runners, with four 2x4-inch joists mortised into the top of the sills and firmly spiked. Fig. 121 shows a cross section with lamp-heated hover installed. Three such hovers can be accommodated in one of these houses, temporary partitions being placed between them, to be removed when the chicks are ready to go on perches. This house provides excellent quarters for a colony hover flock, the hover being placed back within about two feet of the end wall. Fig. 120 is a cross section with perches and plat- form installed. Fig. 119 shows the completed house on the range. For summer ventilation a small louvered opening 66 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 120 — CROSS SECTION OF GABLE ROOF HOUSE WITH PERCHES AND NESTS (not shown in plan) should be provided in each gable. If built of white pine or similar light-weight lumber, a two- horse team will readily haul this house anywhere on rea- sonably level ground. The sills are rounded off ^t each end, runner-fashion, and suitably bored for attaching hooks or chain to hitch to. BILL, OF MATERIALS FOR PORTABLE HOUSE Us Size Inche Sills > 3x6 Joists 2x4 Plate-, 2x4 Studs 2x4 Rafters 2x4 Perchc 2x4 Support for drop. plat.. 2x4 Sheathing' boards for subfloor, roof, nests and partitions %xlO Matched flooring for floors and drop- pings platform %x4 Furring %x3 Window sills IHxB 300 ft. bd. meas. Surfaced. 415 ft. bd. meas. 125 lin. ft. Surfaced. 8 lin. ft. Surfaced. MATERIAL FOR NESTS Door %x7 5 Front base %x6 5 Bottom %xl2 5 Rear base %x4 5 Top strips %x2 10 Upright 2x4 6 Brackets '58x4 8 Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced 1% rolls of prepared roofing. 100 sq. ft. sheathing paper. 2 6-light window sashes, 10xl2-inch glass. 10% sq. ft. muslin. 23 sq. ft. 1-inch mesh poultry netting for windows, etc. 1 pair 8-inch strap hinges for outside door. 1 6-inch hasp. 3 pairs 2-inch hinges for windows and shutters. 1 pair 4-inch strap hinges for perch supports. 1 pair 3-inch strap hinges for nests. 4 hooks and eyes. 2 chain sash adjusters. Nails, tacks, paint, etc. N6".»?un77e^-s ^'vs./^ FIG. 121— CROSS SECTION OF GABLE ROOF HOUSE WITH BROODING HOVER FIG. 122 — FT,OOR PLAN OF GABLE ROOF HOUSE SLED RUNNER COLONY HOUSE Being Eleven Feet Deep and Only Seven Feet Wide, the Rear is Comfortable and Always Free From Drafts. By J. W. PARKS We have been for a number of years working on a colony house that would not only answer the purpose of raising the chicks, but one that we could fix up at very small cost for winter use. Furthermore, we wanted a house that we could change from a summer to a winter house with a very small expenditure of time, because when one has a great many houses to care for, things must be pretty convenient, as time is one of the most im- portant considerations. These features our colony houses have. These houses are 7 feet wide and 11 feet deep, 7 feet high in front and Sj4 at back. We like these narrow, deep houses much better than houses more nearly square, as they hold the heat better in winter, and fowls, when on the perches, are further away from the open front. In constructing this house three sled- runners are provided for the back, mid- dle and front. As our houses are to be used on land sloping to the east, we make the front runner 8 inches high, the middle one 6 inches, and the back one 4 inches, which helps to take care of the slope without -having to block up the house, and avoids having the litter all work toward the front. Next we cut 2x4's, as long as we intend the house to be deep, placing one at each side and one in the middle, notching the runner, so that the 2x4's rest level with the top of the runners. In this way we get a level surface on which to lay the first floor, which must be of tongue-and-groove lumber. Over this sub- ^yyiror, PIG. 123. HOOK FOR MOVING HOUSES PORTABLE COLONY AND BROODER HOUSES 67 floor lay some old papers and then a second floor of boards. We find these double floors very helpful in keeping the house warm in cold weather. Next, the frame is set up and the corner boards nailed on, and then we finish boarding up, using matched lumber so as to have tight joints. There must be no drafts in these coops. These houses can be built at com- FIG. 124— SLED RUNNER COLONY HOUSE Photo from J. W. Parks. paratively moderate cost and may be used either for adult fowls, for indoor brooders or hovers, or can be ar- ranged for cold brooders when the chicks are no longer in need of artificial heat. We have two muslin sashes to fit into the windows or openings, which we use in winter. The bottom sash is put in permanently and the top one slides up and dow«. For ordinary winter weather we leave the top sash down, but when it is extremely cold we generally have the top sash half-way up, leaving a por- tion still open. However, the matter of ventilation de- pends upon the number of fowls in tJie house. We have a sort of a bale hook that we hook under the house back of the 2x4 on the side, and then attach the other .end to a singletree, and the team readily moves it to any desirable location. In the summertime we move these houses not less than twice a month, even if it is only the length of the house, as that gives the chicks new pasture and prevents killing the grass under the house. It may be of interest to describe the cold hovers that we use in these houses. Each house is equipped with two roost poles, 2x3 inches, with rounded edges, for adult fowls. When the house is to be used for chicks we rest these poles on temporary strips on each side of the wall, placing them so that the poles will be about 6 inches from the floor. The back pole is 8 inches from the rear wall and the other about 1 foot in front of it. Over these we tack empty burlap sacks, laying them across the poles and letting them hang down, front and back, with the ends about 2 inches above the floor. We place about an inch of chafif on the floor and in cold weather often throw a lot of chafi on top of the sacks to keep in the warmth. If the chicks get to crowding under this hover they soon are exposed to the cold either in front or back, and so they quickly learn to spread out lengthwise. The first few nights we place them under this hover until they learn to perch on these, then we gradually raise them up higher. SECTIONAL COLONY HOUSE Built in Five Conveniently Handled Sections. Can Easily Be Set Up or Taken Apart for Moving. A poultry house built in sections, so that it may be taken down for moving and readily reassembled in a new location, often is desirable, especially for the use of per- sons who do not own their own homes and who are com- pelled to move more or less frequently. To meet this re- quirement the Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College has designed the house illustrated in Figs. 125, 126, 127, and 128. The following description is given in a circular issued by the Department of Extension Service of this institution: "Building in sections and putting together is a type of construction which requires a minimum amount of material and no extra labor. The demonstration house here described was built by an amateur carpenter in fif- teen hours' time. The following bill of material was used: T7.60 1.03 .81 .60 .26 .40 .34 Best roofers — 200 ft.. 14 ft. x 1x6 in Sills and studs — 4 pieces, 12 ft. x 2x3 in Furrowing- — 9 pieces, 12 ft. x 1x2 in Window — 1, 3-light 9x13 in Wire — 8 feet l-inch mesh. 2 feet wide Unbleached sheeting- — 1 yard, 42 inches wide Hing-es — 2 pairs. 4 inch T hinges . Hoolcs and eyes — 15 Nails — 5 lbs.. 6p Nails— 3 lbs.. 8p Screws — 1 dozen, 1% inch Roofing paper — ^ roll 1.00 Total cost J12.86 "The accompanying plans are somewhat different from the ordinary house plan in that each section is shown as it appears when completed, lying outside down, before putting together. The best boards should be -.0-?- Oi, ■J£- '^'^. J- Si FIG. 125 — FRONT OF SECTIONAL POULTRY HOUSE From blue print furnished by Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College. chosen for the side walls, which may be made tight by painting. Do not neglect painting, as such lumber -will not stand the weather. Boards which are not perfectly tight may be used for the roof, as it is covered with roof- ing paper. The cloth curtain in front, which is 32x39 in- ches, outside measurement, slides up and down outside 68 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES .^T ^ - -^ ^^ __ i«" \\ fi/3- 9^" f 1 1 w^ ^ I 1 1 1 ■| 1 S3 0, 1 ' — //"—^2: 1 ti::::4:::t:::J n j_] ri2' 11 1 , ^i^^Z' Z'^5" i 1 j -S-S' FIG. 126 — EAST END OF SECTIONAL POULTRY HOUSE From blue print furnished by Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College. and may be fastened in any position with the hook, which is turned into the top. The window on the end swings out and may be held open at any angle by the button on the casing. The droppings board, which is 6 feet long and 21 inches wide, rests on cleats which are provided on each end section. The feeding board for mash hopper and water dish is 21 inches long and 16 inches wide, and is located under the window. It is supported by the droppings board on one end, and a brace running down to the sill on the other. The nests are simply a long box without partitions, 12 inches high. 12 inchQ.s wide, and 4 feet long, supported by a cleat on the brace under the feeding platform on one end and a cleat on the back wall on the other end. Hooks and eyes or screws are used to fasten the corners of the house together and hold the roof in place. Nails may be used if the house is not to be taken apart and moved. No floor is provided as this is not considered necessary under average conditions. AN ATTRACTIVE PIANO BOX HOUSE Made From Two Piano Boxes. Is Practical, Comfortable and Inexpensive. By HARRY n. PHIPPS Inexpensive poultry houses may readily be made from piano boxes. The substantial one shown in Fig. 132 is a good example of a house of this type, and it can be I T ' /' -U ■/&'■ FIG. 128 — WEST END OF SECTIONAL POULTRY HOUSE From blue print furnished by Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College. built with comparatively little work. It is made by re- moving the backs and tops of two piano boxes and plac- ing them together, back to back, on a substantial foun- dation. Two pieces, 6 inches wide and 20 inches long, are fastened to the top of both boxes, to give pitch to the roof. The two boxes are to be fastened together with upright strips, 4 inches wide and 4 feet 6 inches long. If it is desired to make the house portable, use screws in- stead of nails for the purpose. A door 4 feet 6 inches high and 16 inches wide is cut out of the end of one of the boxes and a yard door for the fowls near one corner. Nail a 2 or 3-inch strip around the edge of the roof to give a projection and then nail on the roof boards and cover them with prepared roofing. The window in the FIG. 127 — BACK OF SECTIONAL POULTRY HOUSE From blue print furnished by Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College. FIG. 129— ROOF OF SECTIONAL POULTRY HOUSE From blue print furnished by Storrs (Conn.) Agricultural College. PORTABLE COLONY AND BROODER HOUSES 69 FIG. 130 — A LOW-COST PIANO BOX COOP front of the building contains four 8xl0-inch panes of glass and there is a ventilating opening in the gable pro- vided with an 8xl0-inch pane, which slides in suitable grooves, providing additional ventilation when required. The bars across the window are made from old buggy tires and are a desirable addition where there is danger of the fowls being molested by thieves. In this house the perch is located along the wall, op- posite the window, and a suitable droppings board about 2 feet wide should be provided. The nests may be cheaply made and may be suspended from the front edge to the droppings board, which should be high enough to allow the fowls the free use of the entire floor. There will be sufficient lumber from the backs of the boxes to make the droppings board, window cases and a little screen over the exit door, etc. The only materials required in building this house, aside from the two piano boxes, are the window glass, roofing, one pair of hinges, one hasp and a little paint. LOW COST PIANO BOX COOP The house shown in Fig. 130 has a floor space of ap- proximately 30 square feet and was made from a single piano box. The back of the box forms the floor. The front was removed and the sides filled in on the line of the slope of the top part of the front, thus giving a plain shed roof. The roof boards were nailed to battens and hinged at the front so that the entire roof could be raised for cleaning, etc. In the ordinary care of fowls, access_ to the interior is secured through the 2yix3-it. opening, which is protected with double screens, one cov- ered with netting and the other with muslin. COMBINED PORTABLE HOUSE AND RUN An Easily-Moved Coop For a Small Flock of Confined Fowls or Chicks. The combined coop and run illustrated in Fig. 131 is one of several in successful use on an eastern back- yard poultry plant. This house is only about 4 feet -quare, but is expected to accommodate 12 fowls. While this crowds them to an unusual extent the owner reports good winter egg yields nothwithstanding this. As will be seen, canvas is tacked to the north side of the run to cut off the cold winds which come from this quarter, and the house is provided with a hinged, muslin-covered frame on the south side, which affords some light and FIG. 132— AN ATTRACTIVE PIANO BOX POULTRY HOUSE ventilation when closed, and which can be left open when the weather is mild. In the early summer these houses and runs are FIG. 131 — COMBINATION COOP AND YARD for brood coops, the chicks being transferred to them as soon as they no longer need artificial heat. The advantage of a house of this sort is that it may readily be trans- ferred, run and all, to new ground. When the pens are located on a good grass sod they can be shifted every few days to a new location, thus pro- viding an abundance of green food without allowing the fowls to remain long enough in any one place to kill out the grass. For a small flock it i.^ possible to build a house and outdo-r run in this way at lower cost, prcb- ably, than in any other way. The floor of the house is about 2 ft. above the ground, or on a level with the to]) of the run. This provides a sheltered space underneath, from which the fowls reach the upper floor, where perches and nests are located, by means of an incline. CHAPTERVII Permanent Brooder Houses Every Farm or Poultry Plant Where Early Hatched Chicks Are Raised Should Have a Permanent, Conveniently Arranged Brooder House— Merits of Different Brooder Systems Briefly Compared— Plans for Practical Lamp- Heated Hovers With or Without Auxiliary Heat— Hot Water Brooding Systems- One and Two-Compartment Houses for Colony Hovers. o IL and coal-burning colony hovers, each one capa- ble of brooding a single flock of several hundred chicks, have largely supplanted lamp-heated hov- ers and hot-water pipe brooding systems in popu- lar favor. They possess the important advantage of low cost for installation and operation and adaptability to use almost anywhere indoors, and they effect a great saving in labor on account of the very large flocks they are able to brood successfully. Nevertheless, it is well to bear in mind the fact that there still are conditions under which other methods of brooding will be found desirable. Where the chicks are to be raised in large numbers and in moderate weather, colony hovers unquestionably offer the most economical means now known for doing this. Under ordinary circumstances, however, it is not claimed that the chicks raised in flocks of 300 to 600 each will be as well developed as when brooded in smaller flocks under a good-sized lamp-heated hover accommo- dating 75 to 100 each. Also, in extreme winter weather poultry keepers generally believe that they cannot raise chicks under colony hovers as satisfactorily as in regular pipe-heated brooder houses. Plans for various types of brooder houses are pro- vided in this book, and the poultry grower is earnestly ad- vised to consider carefully just what his real needs are in the way of brooding facilities before deciding on the equipment to be purchased. If broilers or ordinary com- mercial or farm flocks are to be raised, no doubt the colony hover will meet most requirements, though there are few poultry plants that will not find it good economy Na ■ 7- 6" « ^ to have a few lamp-heated hovers on hand to meet the various emergencies that are liable to arise wherever chicks are brooded. Where chicks are to be raised on a small scale, or where small incubatois are in use and the broods conse- quently are small and of different ages, nothing will take the place of good lamp-heated hovers. The plan of pro- viding partitions, with the idea of brooding two or more flocks under one colony hover, is only partially satisfac- tory, especially when the flocks are of different ages. In this case either the hover will be too warm for the older chicks or it will be too cold for the younger; either way heavy losses are liable to result. Where chicks are to be raised for breeding stock, it is highly important that they be given the best possible con- ditions for growth and development, and it seldom is ad- visable to brood such stock in colony hovers. It is much better to go to the additional expense of brooding them in small flocks under lamp-heated hovers and thus make sure of giving the individual chicks the best possible chance. For winter brooding, pipe-heated brooder houses are still regarded as indispensable by many poultrymen. Pipe- heated systems, properly installed, provide plenty of heat without great extremes in different parts of the brooding chamber, floor drafts are reduced to a minimum, and valu- able chicks may thus be given highly favorable conditions for growth and development at this most difficult season for successful brooding. The reader must determine for himself just what method or combination of methods will meet his condi- // Brackst-i, 15'- O" y/a-tlsr So ilsr FIG. 133 — FLOOR PLAN OF PERMANE.NT BROODER HOUSE PERMANENT BROODER HOUSES 71 FIG. 134 — FRONT ELEVATION OF PERMANENT BROODER HOUSE tions, bearing in mind, however, that he can better afford to employ inadequate facilities and makeshift equipment at any other point than in the brooding of his chicks. BROODER HOUSE FOR LAMP-HEATED HOVERS May Be Built With or Without Auxiliary Heat. Brooding With Lamp-Heated Hovers is Practical With the Right Kind of House. The floor dimensions of the brooder house shown in Figs. 133 to 141 inclusive, are 16x30 feet. It can, of course, be built any length, but under ordinary conditions Hinged at Top^^ •^ ^^ — IF= ^ ^ ^^"■S^^^^^^ T f ll, 11 ff^ x" ""*■*■*• 1 [u L J i-.e-ic'-i'x = □a L ^^ FIG. 135 — END El^BVATION OF PERMANENT BROODER HOUSE a width of 16 feet is most satisfactory and should be maintained, regardless of length. There are few poultry plants where such a house as this will not be found a profitable part of the equipment, making it pos- sible to brood chicks successfully at almost any season and under the most favorable conditions. Even where colony hovers are depended on for brooding the bulk of the young chicks, a small, well-equipped brooder house of this sort, for use in brooding small flocks and special- quality stock, will soon pay for itself. The foundation should be six-inch concrete walls and these should ex- tend six inches above the ground level. The foundation should be car- ried down to the frost line or to solid ground — 18 to 24 inches as a rule. Earth floors are not practical for brooding houses where rats are com- mon, as these pests like nothing bet- ter than young chicks, and can be depended upon to get them eventual- ly, even though the entire floor is carefully screened with netting. Board floors are open to the objec- tion that they are colder and also harbor rats unless raised well off the ground, which necessitates long in- clines for the chicks. Generally speaking, therefore, con- crete floors are most suitable, though they must be thoroughly insulated and kept covered with coarse sand or deep litter to avoid injury to the chicks confined in them. For brooder house floors of concrete, cinders are recommended, as this material makes a warmer floor than either stone or gravel. By cinders is meant the coars^ ashes fiom large furnaces and boilers. Ordinary fine ashes from stoves and furnaces will not do, and if there is much of this material in the cinders it should be sifted or washed out. If a board floor is preferred, it should be laid double, with sheathing paper between, also one-inch poultry net- ting which will make it impossible for rats to gnaw through. Bear in mind, however, that if rats succeed in establishing themselves underneath the house, it will be only a matter of time until they will succeed in getting at the chicks, no matter how carefully they are protected. Houses that are to be used in cold weathec should al- ways be ceiled. The additional cost of doing this will be amply repaid by the smaller amount of fuel required. Lath and plaster may be used if preferred, but, under ordinary conditions, ceiling is much better suited to poultry-house construction. Building paper should always be tacked to the studs before siding or ceiling is put in place. A layer of sheathing paper should also be nailed to the lower side of the ceiling joists or rafter ties before the ceiling is nailed on. Ventilation openings should be provided in the ceiling, as shown in Fig. 141, page 73. In small houses it is sufficient to have louvered ventilators in each gable, but in houses SO feet or more in length it is neces- sary to provide roof ventilators also. The ground should be graded up to the front sill so that the chicks will have easy access to the yards. The siding should be carried up close to the roof boards, notching the top board carefully for the rafters. For cold climates, storm doors for all outside doors are advisable. FIG. 136— CROSS SECTION OF PERMANENT BROODER HOUSE 72 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES Pipe-heated hovers are not recommended in small brooder houses, as better results usually are secured at less expense where the pens are equipped with individual lamp- heated hovers. In houses 50 feet long and upwards, pipe- ■ heated hovers may be found more economical, though many chick growers prefer individual hovers in brooder houses of any length. Where chicks are to be brooded in mid -winter, houses tj-jyv;. ^ . , ^ equipped with indi- "^'^////id vidual hovers should have some source oi auxiliary heat. This iPoor '^''«'?lt^^^^2 'S '^^^^ supplied by p^^ means of a water ■Clsa^^—--^ heater and a coil of FIG. 137-CONSTRUCTION OF ■ ^^ ^^^^^ ;„ CHICK DOOR , . , -T-t. this plan. The pipes for auxiliary heat should be placed along the north side and as low as the size of the heater will permit, but it is not necessary to place the heater in a pit, as there is no disadvantage in having the pipes well up on the wall, so long as they are not above the rear windows. Fig. 133 shows floor plan, with six hovers, each capable of accommodating about 100 chicks. The number of pens may be reduced to five if preferred, and made five feet wide, which is a more convenient width for the care- taker. The heater is located at the farther end, where it is out of the way but easily cared for. A heater with a 12- inch grate should provide ample heat for a house of this size. Do not make the mistake of keeping the house too warm; 60 to 65 degrees is warm enough, as a rule. The individual hovers can be depended upon to provide the necessary additional heat without at any time having the lamps turned dangerously high. Fig. 136 shows a cross section indicating adjustment of windows, etc., also construction of -partitions. These are to be built up of flooring or any other tongue-and-groove lumber, to a height of 21 inches above the brooder house floor, with three-foot wire netting above. Note location of ceiling ventilator and see Fig. 141 for detail drawing. Figs. 134 and 135 show elevation of front and end respectively. Fig. 140 is an enlarged drawing of a pen front. Note that the first eight inches is occupied by the joist carrying the hover floor. The hover floor is set back one inch from face of joist and the space from top of joist to bottom of pen door is boarded up with matched flooring, or with a nine-inch surfaced board if desired. The doors, which are 2x3 feet, have lx3-inch frames, with one-inch mesh poultry netting tacked on with double-pointed tacks, so that there will be no loose ends to catch clothing. The studs on either side of the door are 2x2 inches and the FIG. 138— CONSTRUCTION OF HOVER FLOOR IN BROODER HOUSE partitions are nailed to them. The studs are faced with Ixl^-inch strips and spaced 23^ inches apart, so that the door will swing shut against the face of the stud. The rest of the front not occupied by the doors is finished with three-inch strips and one-inch netting, same as doors. Where the brooding pens are five feet wide or more, it is desirable to have the pen doors hung on double-acting spring hinges, but this cannot be done with four-foot pens, as in these narrow pens the door cannot swing in with- out striking the hover. Fig. 139 is a detail draw- ing of chick door and win- dow construction. Both door and window are to be framed, the window closing against a 5/2xl-inch weather strip. This strip is cut short at the bottom to allow the bottom of the window to swing out when opened, the window being hinged to the sill, as shown. A short length of chain attached to the sash with a screw eye and dropping over a hook in the casing above, affords a convenient means of adjust- ing the window at any angle. A spring window bolt mav be used to hold the win- dow when closed. The chick door slides up and is held open with hook and eye. The window sill may be of plait, tv/o-inch stuff, placed at ai. angle, if desired; but it is easier and better to have a milled sill, spiking it flat to the undersill, as shown. The chick door sill may be sloped, if desired, but there is no real necessity for doing so and construction is simpler as indicated. The outside doors are framed, as shown in Fig. 26 on page 19. The ven- tilator door, shown in Fig. 141. is hung flush with the lower face of the ceiling, making the opening wide enough so that the door will swing freely. It may be conveniently swung on a ^-inch iron rod, stapling it FIG. 139 — DETAILS OP WINDOW CON- STRUCTION FIG. 140— PEN FRONT IN BROODER HOUSE tightly to the door and letting it turn in staples driven into the ceiling on each side. This rod should be stapled to the door just enough off center so that it will swing shut when not fastened open. A couple of small blocks, nailed to the upper side of the ceiling at either end of the door, act as stops. The door may be held open by a weight, or by attaching the cord to stud or partition. These doors should be approximately under the highest point in the roof, providing two in this 30-foot house and spacing them 20 feet apart in long houses. PERMANENT BROODER HOUSES 73 UETA\L OF Cord for AJJiJS^i^P Do^f Batnsn Doar 16' f :&• S*w*-*'^ ory 1" Iron ^od stapled *o C^iUfi^ o* cccn lend so ih<3^ Oocr can ^cu-n^ CEIUNS/ VENTILATION Scale: t" - r - O* Fig. 138 shows the construction of hover fl way and finish of passageway partition. oor, run- BILt, OF M.VTERIALS FOR l«x30 FOOT BROODBR HOUSE T,„ ^Size Length No. of „„„ , , Us* Inches Feet Pieces K'tiiark, Sills, side 2x4 16 4 Sills, ends 2x4 16 2 Joists for hover plat 2x4 12 6 Plates 2x4 16 4 Studs, front 2x4 10 9 1 piece cuts li Studs, rear 2x4 13 8 1 piece cuts 2 Studs, ends and misc 2x4 12 12 Studs, partition 2x2 12 10 1 piece cuts 2 Rafters 2x6 14 Ifi Rafters 2x6 12 8 1 piece cuts 2 Ties for rafters 2x4 12 15 Braces for rafters 1x6 8 15 SheathinpT for roof 660 ft. bd. meas. Sfcd. T & G siding 626 ft. bd. meas. Matched flooring- for hover platform, parti- tions, etc, 260 ft. bd. meas. %-inch ceiling boards for walls and ceiling.. 1250 ft. bd. meas. %x6-inch boards for ridge pole, door and window frames 125 lin. feet. Surfaced Trim lumber, ventila- tors, etc %x4 430 'in. feet. Surfaced Door and window sills.. 2x8 40 lin. feet. Milled. Strips for Inside win- dow sills, and facing for front partition studs %xl% 75 lin. feet. Strips for window stops and chick runway %xl 150 lin. feet. Surfaced Drip cap 30 lin. feet. Surfaced 6 squares prepared roofing. 12 squares building paper. 266 sq. ft. 1-inch mesh poultry netting for windows. 11 .sa.'ihes. 11/2 -inch. 4-light, 10xl2-inch glass. 1 4-panel door. 1 pr. 4-inch butt hinges. 1 rim lock. 6 pr. 3-inch butt hinges for partition doors. 11 pr, 2-inch butt hinges for windows. 18 2-inch screw hooks and eyes. 14 ft. of sash chain. 6 anchor bolts V4xl2in., with 2-in. washers for each end. 2 iron rods, >4x20-inch. for swinging ventilator doors in ceiling. 1 6-inch chimney thimble. 350 bricks for chimney. MATERI.\L,S FOR CONCRETE FLOOR 50 bags of cement. 120 cu. ft. sand. 200 cu ft. cinders or crushed stone. 160 cu. ft. cinders or stone for filling. BaUIPMENT Water boiler, 12-inch grate. 5 gal. expansion tank. 6 feet of 2-inch pipe. 100 feet of iy2-inch pipe. Necessary manifolds, unions, elbows, etc. 4 wall brackets for supporting pipe. 2 joints of 6-inch stove pipe. 2 stove pipe elbows. 6 lamp-heated hovers, complete. MASSACHUSETTS OPEN PIPE BROODER HOUSE A Popular Type of Brooder House for Extra Early Chicks. Used Quite Generally in Nev7 England. Hot Water Pipes Not Enclosed. Hy PROF. J. C. GRAHAM (A type of hot-water pipe brooding house in general use in New England, where it lias given excellent results for many years, is known as the open-pipe system. One of the most modern and best planned houses of this kind is the one designed and in use at the Massachusetts Agri- cultural Colle.ge, which is described by Prof. Graham as follows. This house is illustrated in Figs. 142 and 143. — ■ Ed.) This house is designed for early or winter brooding by people who wish to brood in lar.ge numbers. It is 14x72 feet. Twelve feet at one end is used for the pit, furnace, coal, etc. The other 60 feet are divided into 12 pens, each five feet wide, as shown in detail in Fig. . It is heated by hot water, the pipes running parallel with the floor. The floor has a fall of IS inches toward the pit. This gives a good chance for flow and return. The walls, both front and rear, are 6^ feet high. The house is lathed and plastered on the inside with wood pulp plaster. This gives a very hard, smooth finish and is about as cheap a method of construction as one can use for a good finished piece of work. In the ceiling there are three openings, each about 15x24 feet. These are for ventilation particularly. Over these are placed burlap screens or small doors. As can be -ieen, it has a good cement foundation and Fia 142— FLOOR PLAN OF PIPE HEATED BROODER HOUSE IN USE AT MASSACHUSETTS AGRI. COLLEGE 74 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES cement floor. Novelty siding is nailed on the outside of the studs. There is no double boarding on the inside. This building cost about $1050 and has given good satisfaction. Note that the only hover we have is a burlap screen. This is laid over about one-half of the space between par- titions, therefore it is about 2}4 feet square. After the first few days it is removed. We also have a board about 12 inches high to keep the chicks within about two feet of the pipes for the first 24 to 48 hours. It is then moved back to about the middle of the run for another day or two, and finally removed, giving the chicks the use of the entire run. The pit is 4^ feet deep. If possible, it would be well to have a drain in this pit. In cold weather the water could be run off easily without carrying it out. Further- more, in cleaning a brooder house the work should be done thoroughly, and by the use of a hose the floor could be flooded and the water carried away by this drain. Of course, it may not be convenient to do this, but in case it is it will be well to provide for it. There are eight 1'4-inch pipes 5J4 inches from the FIG. 143— PIPE HE.\TED BROODER HOU.SE .\T M.A.SS. AGRI. COLLEGE rear and four inches apart on centers. The pipes are seven inches from the floor, but it would be just as well to drop them one inch, making the distance from the pipes to the floor six inches instead of seven inches. Each hover will take care of 100 chicks, although we believe better results follow when the number is reduced to 50 or 75. BIM> OP MATERIALS FOR PIPE3-HBATED BROODER Use Piecei Studs, sides 37 Studs, ends 2 Rafters 37 Sills 2 Sills :. 8 Plates 8 Girders 35 Headers 7 Posts for partition 6 Post for railing 1 Plant for bin 2 2x4 2x3 2x4 2x3 2x4 2x9 Novelty siding (front and rear 982) (ends and rear 282) Roof boards Partition .... Rhing-les Lath and plaster Concrete foundation Concrete floor Partitions, wire Door.s — 2. Windows — 12. Heater. Hardware. Chimney. Length Board Meas. 13 ft. 333 18 ft. 444 18 ft. 24 14 ft. 18 18 ft. 9« 18 ft. 96 14 ft. 245 12 ft. 56 10 ft. 30 3 ft. 2 14 ft. 42 Total 1386 1264 500 187 9V4M. 105 sq. vd. 18% sq. yd. 936 sq. ft. 200 sq. ft. PIPE HEATED BROODER HOUSE WITH UNDER- NEATH HEATING SYSTEM Practical House for Cold Weather Brooding. Pipes Under Brooder Floor. Hover Warmed By Gentle Current of Hot Air. Pipe-heated brooding systems with enclosed pipes have been in use for many years and have given varying degrees of satisfaction. A serious objection to this method of brooding is that, as such heating systems usually are installed, there is not a sufficient ventilation under the hovers. In order to provide the better air circulation needed, the pipes may be placed below the hover floor and enclosed in a chamber or long narrow box where air can be heated, after which it is discharged under the hover, thus maintaining a constant air circulation which automatically ventilates the hover space. Plans for a house heated in this manner are illustrated in Fig. 144. The house here shown is 140 feet long and 13 feet wide, and is separated into two parts, 36 feet and 104 feet, re- spectively. The short end has 12 pens of 3 feet each in width and 10 feet in length, includ- ing the hover, and the longer end has 24 pens 4 by 10 feet in size. The furnace pit and a narrow walk separate the two lots of pens, and an aisle 3 feet in width extends the entire length of the house back of the hovers. The system of heating pipes is installed under the hover floor in a concreted trench. The shorter end has a 2-inch flow and return pipe. The long end has two flow and two return l^^-inch pipes, and both sides are controlled by valves near the heat whereby all or a part of the flow may be shut off from the pipes. The trench is made by excavating to a depth of 6 inches and 36 inches wide. The sides and bottom are cemented and the top is boarded with a course of rough 1-inch boards, covered with a layer of matched J-g-inch spruce flooring (K). This double board- ing prevents any danger of too much bottom heat. The boarding comes flush with the edges of the trench sides, and the frame work of the hovers is of lx3-inch posts which are only as high as the hover divisions (C), which in the small pens are 10 inches and in the large pens 12 inches. This gives a house entirely free from inside posts and makes possible a view of the whole interior from any part. The hover floor is 3 feet wide (the width of the trench) and in the 3-foot pens the hover top slides on cleat (F) 6 inches from the floor. The top or cover is only 24 inches wide, which leaves 12 inches of the slightly warm floor in front of the hover curtain, making a splen- did resting place for the little chicks or ducklings, which they evidently enjoy. When first they are put in the hover, they are penned back nearly to this floor and the gentle warmth helps them and keeps the floor free from dampness. The cover being in two parts (A and B) and sliding freely on cleats (F), may readily be adjusted so as to give ventilation at the back, front or center of the hover, or all three, and the surplus heat may escape in the same way. The hover floor is kept littered with chaff or shavings and when the pen is to be cleaned, the hover top is re- moved, the back boaid, which sets between cleats, is PERMANENT BROODER HOUSES 75 FIG. 144— PLANS FOR PIPE HEATED BROODER HOUSE WITH PIPES UNDER FLOOR illustration shows part ot front elevation, cross section, floor plan, and isometric view of liover. See ac- companying text for key to letters used in isometric, and for general description. taken out and the litter swept into the aisle and taken away in barrels. When the little chicks are to be changed from pen to pen, the back boards are taken out and they are driven down the aisles from one pen to another, in the long end of the house these are 4 feet wide and the hover 8 inches high, but otherwise are the same as the short end. The illustration shows a hover closed, one with the top partly cut away and one with the top off and the back out, ready for cleaning. The hot air is admitted to the hovers through the up- light lJ4-'nch pipes seen in the lower floor. These pipes reach nearly to the underside of the house and the lower ends just reach through the board floor, being flush with the under side. Back of each second hover (on the divis- ion post, so as to be out of the way) is a 2x3 air box which reaches down under the side and permits the cold air to enter the trench. This gives a chance for the warm air in the trench to rise through the short, upright pipes under the hover while cold air is drawing from the aisle, making a perfect circulation. The warm air strike? the hover and, deflecting, makes the entire hover space warm, but doesnot expose the chick to drafts or to direct heat. The sliding two-piece hover-top permits of ventil- ation and the escape of surplus heat at the will of the operator. For the older chicks no curtain is supplied for the hover front, which is left entirely open. MATERIALS REaUIRBD FOR 100-FOOT HOUSE Sills, 12 pieces, 3 by 4, 18 feet: 2 pieces, 3 bv 4 14 feet. Plates, 12 pieces, 2 by 4, 18 feet: 2 pieces, 2 by 4, 14 feet. Studs. (10 feet to enters), 11 pieces. 2 by 4. 6 feet 3 inches; 30 pieces. 2 by 3. 4 feet 7 inches. Grits. 10 pieces. 2 by 3. 12 feet. Rafters. 51 pieces, 2 by 4, 16 feet. Extra for slides, door frames, etc.. 8 pieces. 2 by 3. 16 feet. Rafter ties, 49 pieces. 1 by 6, 7 feet. Boards, outside, 700 feet 14-feet. 2300 feet 16-feet: inside. 524 feet: total, plain, 3524 feet; matched. 900; if ceiled inside add 2400 feet. Board up and down, roof lengthwise. Paper, roof, 1500 feet; bal.".nce 1400 feet. Doors, three 3 by 6 feet 6 inches, one 2 by 5. Wire netting to suit use, 1-inch mesh. HOVER WORK Sills. 12 pieces. 2 by 6. 16 feet. Floor. 300 feet. 12 feet. Covers, divisions and back, matched 500 feet, 12 feet. Pen division boards, 14 pieces, 1 by 12, 16 feet. Windows, 14 12-light, 9 bv 13; 6 rear windows 6-Iight, 9 by 13; 2 end windows, 6-light. 9 by 13. Cement floor under all, 1300 feet. Pit wall 18 inches. 5 by 8 feet. 5 feet deep, pointed. Walk across pit and stairs, 5 pieces, 2 by 6, 16 feet. Heating and piping to suit. COMBINATION HOT WATER AND COLONY HOVER BROODER HOUSE Front Section Heated By Hot Water Pipes Underneath Floor. Rear Section Accommodates Several Colony Hovers. The semi-monitor roof brooder house, shown in Fig. 145, was designed by J. W. Parks, the well-known breeder of Barred Plymouth Rocks, after a careful study of brooder-house construction in general and his own special requirements in particular. It has been in use on his poul- try plant for the past few years with complete success. It is unique in brooder-house construction in that it utilizes both the hot water and colony hover brooding systems, one helping out the other to some extent and thus, it is believed, getting the best results from each. The house is 65 feet lon(^ and 28 feet wide. Both front and rear walls are five feet high from sills to eaves and the front of the rear section is 11 feet high. The house is divided lengthwise in the center, the front part being equipped with a water boiler and a coil of heating pipes. A space about 5x10 feet is occupied by the boiler and coal bin, the boiler standing in a three-foot pit. The out.-=i'1c 76 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES -COMBINATION PIPE HEATED AND COLONY HOVER BROODING HOUSE Photo furnished by J. W. Parks. door opens into a passageway 3]^ feat wide and sunk so that the floor is three feet below the main floor of the house. The coil of hot water pipes, consisting of six lines of 154-inch pipe, is enclosed in a wooden box underneath the floor of the house. Each compartment is provided with a hover, which is heated by means of warmed air, which is admitted from the pipe box to the hover chamber through hot air flues suitably located in the floor under the hover. This part of the house is divided into IS pens, each four feet wide and having a normal brooding capac- ity of about 100 chicks, or 1,500 in all. The back part of the house, which is separated from the front by an open partition of wire and boards, is di- vided into five compartments, each equipped with a coal- burning colony hover. In cold weather, with the water heater in operation, the temperature of the entire house is made comfortable, and the colony hovers are more easily operated and regulated to the correct brooding tem- perature, thus protecting the chicks from extreme changes in room temperature that often occur with this method of brooding when something goes wrong with the regulating device or the supply of fuel. Operating cclony hovers in a partially heated house also reduces the danger of floor drafts, which are especially liable to exist when the out- side temperature is quite low. In ordinary operation Mr. Parks uses the colony hover pens for his market or utility chicks, while his best stock — the blue- blooded chicks that are to have the most favorable conditions possible, are brooded in the hot water heated compartments. In writing regarding these two systems and their respec- tive merits, Mr. Parks says: "I like the pipe system better. 1 have about as good success with one as with the other and the pipe sys- tem is more expensive than the other on account of the greater labor re- quired for caring for small flocks of chicks, also because of the larger in- vestment in equipment. But to get best results chicks should be brooded in comparatively small flocks; more- over, chicks brooded under a colony hover should all be of the same age, and as we do not get as many as SOO chicks of our best matings that we can brood together, it is necessary to have the smaller compartments of the pipe-heated system to care for them. "Colony hovers no doubt are the cheapest for brood- ing chicks in large numbers. It takes some skill, however, to handle colony hover chicks after they are ten days old, when, if not carefully handled, they are liable to get switched into corners where they crowd and sweat instead of gathering in a loose open ring under the hover or dome, as they should. In hot weather, also, there is some trouble keeping the fire low enough without having it go out. You will see from this that I use both methods and find both necessary to best results under my conditions. My brooding losses the past two years have not been much more by one method than the other. Have had as few as ten lost at four weeks out of a lot of SOO. though, of course, not all lots do so well." The door of this house is at end opposite the one shown in Fig. 145, and opens into a sunken passageway back of the pipe-heated hover system. The ground in front of the pens is graded up to the sills so that the chicks can pass readily from house pens to yards without the use of special board inclines. FIG. 146 — REAR ELEVATION OF SINGLE PEN COLONY HOVER HOUSE From blue print furnished by Poultry Division of U. Department of Agriculture. PIG. 147 — FRONT ELEVATION OP SINGLE PEN COLONY HOVER HOUSE From blue print furnished by Poultry Division of t Department of Agriculture. PERMANENT BROODER HOUSES n A SINGLE COMPARTMENT COLONY BROODER HOUSE This Portable House Can Be Moved With a Two-Horse Team if Light-Weight Lumber is Used in Building It. Where a single compartment house for colony- brooding is required, the plans shown in Figs. 146, 147 and 148 will be found practical and economical. These plans were prepared by the Poultry Division of the U. S. Department of Agriculture and houses constructed from them are in use on the Government Experiment Farm at Eeltsville, near Washington. D. C. The plans provide for a lOxlO-foot house, on runners for convenient moving, and its genera! outlines are easily understood from the drawings. All dimensions are indi- cated. The floor is of tongue-and-groove flooring, laid on 2x6-inch joists set 2 feet apart. Rafters are 2 feet apart, and corners and runners are thoroughly braced. Following is the bill of materials required: 125 sq. ft. T & G flooring- %x2^4 in. x 10 ft. 325 sq. ft. T & G flooring- 78x2% in. x 12 ft. 6 PCS. 2x6 incli x 10 ft., for joists. 2 pes. 4x6 in. x 12 ft. for runners. 6 pes. 2x4 in. x 14 ft. for rafters. 16 pes. 2x4 in. x 12 ft. for braces and studs. 150 sq. ft. siieathing ''/8Xl2 in. x 12 ft., surfaced 1 side. 1^ rools roofing paper. 4 sashes, 2 ft. square. 2 sashes 18x24 inches. Nails, screws, hinges, and paint. TWO COMPARTMENT COLONY BROODING HOUSE Requires Less Fuel, is More Comfortable, and More Adaptable to Changing Weather Conditions Than Single Compartment Houses. Brooding with colony hovers heated by means of oil or coal-burning stoves is a comparatively new method, but one that has become extremely popular wherever chicks are raised in large numbers, and that has practically revo lutionized general brooding practice. .^s a rule, these hovers are placed in any buildings that happen to be available, and usually with good re- sults. Large brooder flocks necessarily require much t3 Rafrer Plate T K FIG. 14S— T-WO-SECTION MUSLIN COVERED FRAME This two-section shutter is so made that the upper part can be opened to provide needed ventilation when it is not desirable to have entire shutter open. A cross section of shutter is shown at left. The middle button at top holds upper section firmly in place when closed. The buttons on either side are attached to the frame of section and act as stops. FIG. 149 — FLOOR PLAN OF SINGLE PEN HQ-QSE FOR COLONY HOVER From blue print furnished by Poultry Division of U. S. Department of Agriculture. greater floor space than is provided for flocks of 50 to 100, and larger houses or rooms, combined with the method of heating employed, frequently develop floor drafts to some extent. These must be reckoned with, especially in cold- weather brooding. One of the ways of preventing this trouble is to build the house so that it can be divided into two parts of about equal dimensions, placing the hover in one section which is built quite warm but well lighted, the other section being used as an exercising compartment and generally built with a curtain front. The house illustrated in Figs. ISO and 152 has been carefully designed to meet the special requirements of 4% PIG. 150— CROSS SECTION OP TWO COMPARTMENT HOUSE FOR COLONY HOVER 78 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES colony brooding and will be found suitable for the use of the great ma- jority of those who are raising chicks by this time and labor-saving method. Fig. 152 shows floor plan of house, which is 10x24 feet, with a 10-foot hover section partitioned off at one end. When the chicks are first placed under the hover they are to be confined to this room. It is large enough for several hundred during the first week or two, but not so large as to invite floor drafts, and it can be comfortably heated with much less fuel than would be re- quired to maintain the correct tem- perature if the entire house were in one room. When the chicks are ten days to two weeks old, or when only a few days old in mild weather, they should be given access to the exercising compartment, which is provided with a muslin shutter for ventilation. In order to be able to graduate the ventila- tion, a double shutter is provided so that the upper part may be opened without disturbing the lower section, thus affording fresh air without exposing the chicks to direct drafts from the opening, as would be the case if the entire shutter were to be opened in severe or stormy weather. In milder weather, or when the chicks are older and have been somewhat hardened, the entire shut- ter may be hooked up, thus giving the chicks practically outdoor conditions without exposure. This shutter is shown in detail in Fig. 148. Fig. 150 is a cross section of the hover end and Fig. 151 shows the front of the completed house. BILL OP MATERIALS FOR COLONY HOVER HOUSE Remarks 151 — FRONT ELEVATION OF TWO-COMPARTMENT HOUSE FOR COLONY HOVER Frame for top shutter.. %x2 Strip under shutter %x2V4 Strip under window %x2% 20 lin. ft. Surfaced 6 lin. ft. Surfaced 10 lin. ft. Surfaced sides sides sides Inches Sills, sides 2x8 Sills, ends 2x8 Sills, half width " 2x4 Jots'* 2x6 Plates 2x4 Studs, front "" 2x4 Studs, rear 2x4 Studs, ends 2x4 Rafters 2x5 Window sills ' 2x5 Roof boards 1x10 T 4 G siding :::.;.%x6 nili^i ■ .i -; 9-16x4 350 ft Door & window frames..%x6 150 lin ft 60 lin. ft 25 lin. ft. Spike to Inside face of side sill. 325 ft 450 ft ^ 300 ft. bd Trim boards ■%x4 Frame for shutter %x3V^ bd. meas. Sui meas. meas. meas. Surfaced Surfaced Surfaced sides sides sides FIG. 152 — FLOOR PLAN FOR TWO-COMPARTMENT COLONY HOVER HOUSE 3V4 squares prepared roofing. 3 squares sheathing paper for floor. 60 sq. ft. wire netting for curtain front. 2 12-light windows, 10x12. 3 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges. 3 hasps. 4 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for windows. 1 pr. 2% -inch butt hinges for shutters. 1 pr. 3-inch butt hinges for shutters. 4 2-inch screw hoolcs and eyes. Nails, tacl3B equipment, etc., in the barn, as suggested on page 9. On large plants, however, it is desirable to have a special house for this purpose, usually building it in connection with laying pens, or as a part of a general ad- ministration building, such as is illustrated and described elsewhere in this chapter. Wherever the feed room is built, it should be suitably provided with labor-saving appliances, convenient feed bins, etc. Combination Laying and Feed House The combination laying and feed house shown in Fig. 161 has been in successful use at the West Virginia Experiment Station for several years, and has a number of features that adapt it to general use. The feed house is placed in the center of a six-pen laying house. It is somewhat wider than the latter, and is one and a half stories in height, with a high gable which provides a lib- eral amount of storage room on the second floor. Grain, litter, and similar materials are . hoisted to the second floor by means of rope and pulley. The first floor of the feed house generally can be used to best advantage for the stoiing of heavy grains, such as shelled corn and wheat, and bone cutters, feed mills, cooking appliances, feed mixers, etc., will be in- stalled here, if any are used. Lighter materials, such as ground feeds, baled litter, etc., may be stored above. A convenient plan is to have bins for ground grains on the second floor, these bins being provided with chutes which conduct the contents to the lower floor where they may be drawn off as wanted. Where a feed house is built, it is always desirable to provide a cellar underneath for storing roots, cabbage, or other green foods for winter use, or for sprouting oats. Such a cellar will be found almost as great a convenience as the house itself. An outside door should be provided for convenience in filling the cellar, and an inside stairway for ordinary use. Equipment for the Feed House Various articles of equipment may be used in the feed house and, as a rule, it pays to provide whatever will save time or labor. As the requirements of poultry keepers \ary widely in respect to these, and as such equipment usually is purchased piece by piece as the need for it be- comes apparent, it is not practicable to furnish an item- ized list of needed appliances, further than to mention the few that should be in every feed house, large or small. For mixing quantities of feed on the floor of the house, nothing is better than a medium-sized scoop shovel. For small quantities of mash, wet or dry, a mix- ing box should be provided. This should be made of hard, closely-grained wood that will not readily absorb moisture. The boards for the floor of the box should be selected with care, choosing those that are edge-grained rather than flat-grained, as the latter are apt to become splintered and rough after they have been in use for a short time. This mixing box should be about two feet wide and should have straight sides twelve inches high, with the ends sets sloping. It is not easy to mix feed in boxes with square ends. For mixing wet mashes a large garden hoe and an ordinary dirt shovel or a spade will be found serviceable. One or more galvanized bushel baskets and a few 12 to 16-inch galvanized pails are needed on every poultry plant. Where corn is bought on the ear, it usually is desir- able to have a corn sheller, and where fresh meat or butchers' scraps can be secured to good advantage, a bone cutter becomes a necessity. There are few cases in which the poultryman can crack and grind his feeds as cheaply as he can buy them at the feed mill or store, but a small mill for preparing special feeds often proves a convenience and a time-saver. In all cases where home mixtures are prepared, or where feed is ground at local mills, some means of sifting should be provided. The use of unsifted cracked grain, in particular, is a wasteful practice. There are a variety of uses to which a good feed cooker can be put. such as cooking vegetables, steaming clover, etc.; also for providing hot water to meet the numerous requirements of the average poultry plant in wintertime. While somewhat more expensive than the ordinary sheet-metal feed cooker, a small boiler that will furnish steam for cooking, heating water, etc., will be found much more convenient in the long run. Plenty of well-constructed bins should be provided in FIG. 161— COMBIN'.VTION FEED .AND l.,\YI.\(; He JlJSB AT WEST VIRGINIA EXPERIMENT ST.-V.TIOX 84 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES FIG. 162 — CONVENIENT BINS IN FEED HOUSE Above illustration shows a convenient arrangement of feed bins, which in this case are built with a 6-inch space between bins and floor and walls, to allow cir- culation of air. Illustration shows two bins with the fronts down for filling and two with receiving boxes in place, ready for shovelling out feed. the feed house, and these should be large enough to meet all probable requirements without carrying the sides too high. It should not be necessary to have to lift grain bags more than shoulder high in order to empty them. The plan of having bins for ground grains on the sec- ond floor, with chutes to conduct contents to the feed- mixing room on the ground floor, has already been sug- gested. Wherever the bins are located, they should be made thoroughly tight on all sides, using well-sealoned T. & G. boards. Lumber should be used that is not liable to split, as it is necessary to use large-sized nails and a good many of them to make these partitions strong enough to withstand the heavy pressure to which they will be subjected. Bin fronts should consist of loose boards sliding in a groove so that they can readily be re- moved and replaced for ease in filling and emptying. The bottom board in the front should have a sliding door large enough to admit a scoop shovel. It is easier to shovel from the bottom of the bin than to lift the feed out over a high partition. See that the boards forming the floor of the bin run from front to back, instea"d of from side to side, for convenience in shoveling. Another way of arranging feed bins is shown in Fig. 162. Here the bins are built independently of the house, with a 6-inch air space between floors and walls to pro- tect contents from dampness. The bins can be filled from the top, which is hinged, and the fronts also are made with an upper hinged section to be let down for greater ease in filling. A receiving box is provided so that when door at bottom of bin is opened the contents will not run out on the floor. This box is so made that it can be pushed back under the bin floor, out of the way, when not needed. It is always desirable to make the feed room of am- ple dimensions, as it frequently is necessary to spread new grain or damp feed of any kind loosely on the floor, rather than to put it in bins where it will quickly heat and mold. This is particularly true in the case of corn meal and new shelled or cracked corn, which can seldom he placed in large bins with safety. For storing ear corn in the fall it is desirable to have a ventilated crib of slats or wire screen so that air can circulate through it. If it is to be stored in a feed house or a limited supply kept for immediate use in the poultry house, the sides of the bin should be made of wire screen or 1-inch mesh poultry netting, rather than of tight boards. ADMINISTRATION BUILDING FOR LARGE PLANTS Large Plants Need a House Like This One Where Much of the Daily Work Can Be Performed Under One Roof. The house plans illustrated and described in the pre- ceding pages, cover all practical requirements of the aver- age poultry plant, large or small, as regards accommoda- FIG. 163— FIRST FLOOR PLAN IN ADMINISTRATION BUILDING ADMINISTRATION AND OTHER SPECIAL BUILDINGS 85 tions for brooder chicks, laying flocks, breeding pens, etc. There are few large poultry farms, however, that do not require a large, central- ly located house where feeds and miscellaneous supplies can be stored and in or about which can conveni- ently be grouped facilities that are necessary for efficiently administer- ing the work of the farm. Generally such a building should be planned on a sufficiently large scale to provide ample storage on the ground floor, with a room for killing and dressing taljle fowls. A basement will afford room for incubators at much less cost than the construction of a sepa- rate building for this special purpose. .\ second floor will provide comfort- able quarters for one or more of the men employed on the place, and an extension may be added on one side for a long brooder house to be equipped with lamp-heated hovers, colony hovers or a hot-water pipe brooding system. On the other side an extension for crate feeding table fowls will be found most convenient when these are to be produced in considerable numbers. Such an administration house is illustrated and described on this and following pages. It is large enough to meet the require- ments of quite an extensive farm and needs only to be reduced proportionately all round to adapt it to a much smaller place. Any competent carpenter will be able L/\lDDFI1 All -^[1.' SELOW GFiAOE : S' FIG. 164— CELL.\R FLOOR PLAN IN ADMINISTRATION BUILDING readily to make the needed changes and adapt the bill of materials to lesser proportions. Fig. 164 gives the floor plan of the incubator cellar which is large enough to accommodate 20 to 30 large- sized lamp-heated incubators, or two mammoths if they are preferred. Where extra-large hatching capacity is required, the cellar can be extended under the fattening room, thus doubling its size. The ventilation of this cellar is not indicated in drawing but the plan shown on page 79 should be followed. Build the intake flues into the ooncrece or st^ne foundation wall, however, thus mak- ing them practically indestructible. Where there is no sewerage system available it will be necessary to provide a cesspool or septic tank outside the building to take the waste from the killing room, men's toilet, etc., and FIG.165— .SIDE ELEVATION OF ADMINISTRATION BUILDING FOR LARGE POULTRY FARM POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES number of fowls are to be fed, the noise which they make when all the birds are feeding at one time is often considered objectionable as it is lia- ble to cause disturbance among the fowls. Fattening crates do not have to be located in a house but may be kept in any sort of shed or, in mild *0 weather, may be placed outdoors in \£) the shade in any convenient, quiet spot. It is only necessary to throw a couple of boards or a strip of roof- ing over the top to keep the rain out, in order to make the birds comfort- able. Where fowls are to be fattened in large numbers the use of portable feeding batteries, which can be bought ready-made, is recommended. A battery consists of 8 to 16 separ- ate compartments, each holding sev- eral fowls. They usually are made with woven-wire floors and with droppings pans under each compart- ment, so arranged that they may be removed easily for cleaning. Each battery rests on castors or small wheels, by means of which it may readily be moved wherever wanted. The battery shown in Fig. 170 has a double tier of coops containing 16 compartments in all. and is capable of accommodating in the neighborhood of 100 fowls — mere than that number if small, and less if full grown. The feeding troughs with this battery are of galvanized iron and the floors are of wire, which offers no chance for the droppings to stick to the feet of the fowls. The drop- pings trays are of wood. A COCKEREL HOUSE A House for Surplus Cockerels and for Wintering Breed- ing Males. Convenient Conditioning Room, For Fitting Exhibition Fowls. Where fowls are bred in large numbers, there is always need for a building in wliich the surplus males may be kept when not wanted in the breeding pens, where exhibition Ijirds may be fitted a n d trained, and « here fowls of any ^(irt may be cooped nulividually when it IS desirable to do ~() Plans for such a house are shown m Figs. 176 and 177. This house is 1.K60 feet in the i-le.ir and provides room for 120 indi- Mdual coops, each 1 foot, 8 inches by 3 feet, and 2 feet 2 .■.ohes high. Coops —INTERIOR OF COCK- °^ ^^'S size afford EREL HOUSE ample room for sin- CROSS SECTION OP FATTENING SHED IN ADMINISTRA- TION BUILDING gle individuals, or for two or three small or medium sized birds for a short time, if they get along peaceably to- gether. In addition to the coops there is a conditioning room at one end of the building and room at each' end of the cooping room for storage of food, litter, etc. Fig. 176 shows the floor plan of the building. The provision for 17 2-sash windows may seem excessive but it must be remembered that much more window surface is required to light numerous small pens than would be needed for one large open room. Pen floors and partitions are to be of tongue-and- groove ceiling boards nailed to ^•^x2-in. strips as shown in cross section. The pen fronts are to be of a good grade of wire fencing with the upright wires spaced about two inches apart and the joints welded or fastened with wire locks so that there will be no sharp wire ends to injure combs or cut neck feathers. The pen doors are of the same material and arranged as in Fig. 175, which makes their construction quite simple. Fig. 173 is from a photo- graph of a house built in accordance with this plan but considerably larger than the one shown in the drawing. In cold climates this house should be built with double walls, the inside wall being of tongue - and -groove ceiling and warmly constructed through- out. In most in- stances a concrete floor should be pro- vided, but the lower pens should have board floors, laid on 1-inch furring to ^^^ 175-PBN FRONT IX COCK- make an air space erei. house '. '. i Y\ If- £ 'J IV ,R E ^ ?< /V - Z'/i"Fdcirrg- A/I /ii-ochd. ■_ ■_ "£ ADMINISTRATION AND OTHER SPECIAL BUILDINGS 89 FIG. 176 — FLOOR PLAN between concrete and pen floors. The following is the bill of materials required for this cockerel house. BILL, OF MATERIALS FOR COCKEREL HOUSE ITse S'^'= Length No. of Ri-marks ^'* Inches Feet Pieces Kemarts Sills, sides 2x4 10 12 Sills, ends 2x4 14 2 Plates 2x4 10 12 Stuas, front 2x4 10 34 Studs, rear 2x4 12 17 1 piece cuts 2. Studs, ends & misc.. 2x4 10 45 Cut to fit. Rafters 2x6 16 30 Window and door sills 2x6 10 6 Roof boards 1x10 1100 ft. bd. meas. Surfaced. T & G siding %x6 1500 ft. bd. meas Ceiling- ^ %x4 3500 ft. bd. meas. Flooring for pens, doors, etc %x4 1200 ft. bd. meas. Furring for floors of bottom pens.. '78x2 275 lin. ft. Surfaced. Ceiling boards for parts 78X4 1600 ft. bd. meas. Door and window frames %x5 300 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Strips base of windows %x4 75 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Weather strips %x% 100 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. Trim boards for partition fronts.. %x2V4 600 lin. ft. Surfaced 4 sides. 12 squares prepared roofing. 12 squares sheathing paper. 17 2-sash windows, 12-light, 10xl2-inch glass. 420 sq. ft. heavy wire fencing, for pen fronts. 12 anchor bolts, y2xl2-inch, with 2-inch washers. 3 pr. 8-inch T-strap hinges. 2 hasps. 17 pr. 2-inch butt hinges for top sash. Plumbing for washing room. Nails, double-pointed tacks and paint. MATERI-\LS FOR FOUNDATION AND FLOOR 90 bags Portland cement. 200 cu. ft. of sand. 350 cu. ft. crushed stone or gravel. 200 cu. ft. crushed stone or gravel for filling. S9'i'- OF COCKEREL HOUSE A DRYING COOP Will Pay for Itself in a Season if Many Fowls Are to Be Fitted for Exhibition. Can Be Equipped for Oil Heater. The specially constructed drying coop shown in Fig. 178 is a most convenient piece of equipment for the con- »: iioncre.fe. Floof -CROSS SECTION OF COCKEREL FIG. 178 — DRYING COOP USED IN FITTING FOWLS FOR SHOW ROOM ditioning house. The size will be regulated by the num- ber of fowls that are to be handled, but the one here shown in about three feet wide, three feet deep and five fo six feet long. As will be seen, it is warmed by means of hot water pipes in the bot- tom, the heat being supplied by a small gas burner. Perches are pro- vided on which the fowls perch while drying and underneath are trays for the droppings. With the front cur- tains down the temperature can be (]uickly raised to any desired point and held there quite uniformly by oc- casionally consulting the thermome- ter suspended in the chamber. Mak- ing use of a drying closet like this will be found much better than the laliorious method of fanning, and better too than placing the birds in an open coop in a warm room and leaving them there to dry out slowly. When gas is not available .for use it will not be difficult to adapt a good blue flame oil burner to the purpose. 90 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES CONCRETE MANURE SHED Save the Droppings and Make Them a Source of Added Profit. By UR. KAYMO.VD PEARL* One of the most valuable by-products of any live- stock industry is the manure. Its proper care and use is one of the distinguishing features of a successful stock farm. The high nitrogen content of poultry droppings makes them in certain respects the most valuable of farm manure. At the same time this quality necessitates special treatment to preserve the nitrogen and utilize it econom- ically. This Station (Maine) recently built at its poultry plant a manure shed large enough to accommodate the droppings from one thousand adult birds over a period of a year; also the droppings collected from the range where three thousand chicks are annually reared. The inside measurements of this shed are 7x12 feet. It is 5 feet high FIG. 179— CONCRETE MANURE SHED Photo from Maine E.xp. Station. at the eaves and 8 feet 2 inches to the peak of the roof. See Fig. 179. The foundation is a solid block of cement and rock smoothed off at the ground level to form the floor. At the edges of the foundation the cement is con- tinued up into the wall forms which were built so that the walls are 10 inches thick at the base and six at the top. The droppings are thrown into the shed through trap doors in the roof, and taken out from one end. which is of removable plank. The cement wall in the plank end is continued far enough from either corner to provide a place for the slot into which the planks are slipped. This slot is a groove two inches deep and a little more than two inches wide, and is formed by placing an angle iron post within the board forms. The gables are of boards. The gable at the open or plank end of the shed is removable, to give more head room when shoveling the manure into carts. It is held in place with hooks. The roof is secured to the walls by bolts and rings, as shown in Fig. 179. The plates and rafters are of 2x4 timbers. Inch boards were used for roof boards and gables. The roof is covered with roofing paper. In one side of the roof are two trap doors also covered with this roofing. Each of these doors is 2 feet 4 inches by 2 feet 10 inches and fits over a frame in the roof, to which it is hinged at the top. The end of a lath is attached by a double screweye to the inside of each door at the right edge, about half way from bottom to top. The edge of this lath is provided with notches which hook over a nail on the inside of the door frame. When hooked this lath holds the door open. A 2x4 strip is nailed across the inside of each door frame a lit- tle more than half way from bottom to top. This serves as a rest for the basket when droppings are emptied into the shed. This shed is placed at the end of the line of poultry houses and the raised walk which extends along the en- tire front of the houses is continued past the shed and built on an incline, so that at the end of the shed it is only 1 foot 8 inches from the eaves. HOSPITAL FOR SICK FOWLS Every person who keeps large numbers of fowls needs a special iso- lated building where sick or injured birds can receive treatment. This hospital should be conveniently lo- cated, and properly equipped for the work. Do not make the mistake of selecting some old building for this use simply because it is worthless for any other purpose. It is imprac- tical to bother with hospital cases at all, unless a convenient building is provided in which to do the work, and in which the fowls can be kept comfortable. Sick or injured fowls should never be penned together in flocks, but should have small individual coops similar to those shown in the cock- erel house described elsewhere in this chapter. An ideal fowl hospital can be provided by building a section of this cockerel bouse of suitable size. For small numbers the width can be reduced to about eight feet, with coops along the rear wall and across the ends, but always leave an operating room not less than five feet in width along the front, where there should be provided an operating table and a set of shelves stocked with suitable remedies, disinfectants, and such other materials as are needed in caring for the sick or injured fowls. For convenience in cleaning, the bottom bar of the coop front should be two or three inches above the floor so that all litter, droppings, etc., may be easily scraped into a suitable pan or trough on the outside. This opening should be closed by a narrow door to pre- vent the litter from being scratched out by the fowls. The hospital building should have a concrete floor and. in cold climates, should be double-walled and provided with some means of heating it. Sick fowls are not able to stand the degree of cold that healthy fowls find entirely comfortable, and if special treatment is to be given, the operator will find it much more satisfactory to be able to warm the house to a comfortable temper- ature. ' Condensed from Maine Station Bulletin No. 216. CHAPTER X Interior Fixtures and Equipment Practically Everything Needed to Equip the Poultry House is Here Illustrated and Described — Partitions and How to Build Them— Location of Perches and Nests— Various Types of Nests for Layers— Trap Nests for the Breeding Pens— Feed Troughs and Hoppers, Water Vessels, Trolleys, Oat Sprouters, Advantages of Winter Illutnlnation— Coops for Broody Hens, Etc. ffi 'ST of the poultry house plans given in this book are simple and plain almost to the point of bare- ness. This is not due to any failure to appre- ciate the importance of suitable fixtures and enuipnicnt, but because in plans intended for general use it is better to omit everything that is not clearly essen- tial and leave it to each individual to add, from time to time, such labor-saving features as his own experience and his particular needs indicate will be necessary or helpful. .About everything that is likely to be required in the way of fixtures and equipment, inside and out- side of the poultry house, will be found described and illustrated in the following pages, and it is a simple matter to adapt any of them for use in the house plans already presented. Simplicity in the poultry house is desirable, but sim- plicity may be overdone. It is well to recall, now and then, that the house and its facilities are provided as mucli for the crinvenience of the attendant as for the use of the fowls, and anything that will make the work of caring for the fowls easier should by all means be installed. Time and labor-saving equipment about the poultry plant is of the first importance, especially where fowls are kept in large numbers, and it is a serious mistake to fail to pro- vide anything that will save time or make the work lighter. For the most part, the equipment of the poultry house should be simply made, and easily removable for cleaning. This does not apply to such fixtures as partitions between pens or along alleyways, which are properly a part of the house and should be permanently constructed. As a rule, this also applies to the droppings platform and nest sup- ports. These can be made movable, but it is simpler and easier to fasten them in place. If the house becomes in- fested with lice and mites, it is, of course, desirable to be able to take everything out for thorough treatment, but there is no practical advantage in an arrangement which involves continual inconvenience because it would be de- sirable to be able to throw everything out of the house in the event of its sometime being overrun with mites — a condition that need never be encountered with reasonable care. It is better to determine to take the proper pre- ventive measures from the start, and if that is done there will never be any occasion for the unpleasant job of emptying the house out to fight lice and mites. Photo from U. S. Department of Agriculture FIG. 181— PEN FRONT IN HOUSE WITH PASSAGEWAY PASSAGEWAYS AND PARTITIONS When Passageways Should Be Used. Planning Them to Save Labor. Partitions That Protect the Fowls. Where passageways are provided it is possible to in- corporat-e a number of features that will aid greatly in the work of caring for the fowls. A practical plan for a passageway partition is shown in Fig. 181. This partition is nailed permanently to studs, the spacing of which will be determined, of course, by-the width of the pens. The baseboard should be at least six to eight inches in width and better if ten inches, as the fowls will scratch the litter out into the passageway and the feed trough if the board is too narrow. The feed trough is provided especially for use where a wet mash is fed, but it will be found convenient also for feeding kitchen scraps, green food, and various other arti- cles, and for that reason should be provided even though it is the intention to supply the mash dry in hoppers. The square frame next to the trough is to support the water vessel, which may be a bucket or crock. Place the vessel about as high as the fowls can well reach so as to keep the litter from being scratched into it. It is a good plan to provide a platform on the inside for the fowls to stand on, making it about a foot high and with the water vessel correspondingly raised. The upright pieces may be of two-inch strips surfaced and the edges rounded so that the fowls' neck feathers will not be worn off by rubbing against sharp corners. These slats should be about 22 to 24 inches long, if nailed on, as shown in the illustration. A neater way of fasten- ing them is to cut them the exact length of the space be- tween A and B (about 18 inches') and set them with the face of the strips flush with the front of A and B, toenail- ing them in place, or nailing to back-strips attached to the 92 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES inside faces of A and B and extending beyond them about half an inch, thus providing supports for the top and bot- tom of the uprights. Above strip B is an eight-inch board which forms the door into the nests, by means of which the eggs may be gathered without entering the different pens. Strip D should be four inches wide and above it is another door FIG. 182 — DETAIL OF CONSTRUCTION OP DROP- PINGS' PLATFORM, PERCHES, AND NESTS opening flush with the top of the droppings platform so that the droppings may be scraped directly into a box or trough provided for the purpose and which can be wheeled readily from one pen to another. This door should be about 12 inches wide and is hinged to the four-inch strip (F) above. In the illustration the partition from this point to the top is wire netting, but it is a much better plan to make it of heavy muslin, or at least to provide a curtain of this material that can be used in cold weather to protect the fowls from drafts when on the perches. The door into the pen, which is indicated on the right, should be at least 2;/2 feet wide, and should be constructed with a fram^ of four-inch lumber with wire netting to cover it. There should be an 8 to 12-inch baseboard, which should be made movable, supporting it by means of cleats, so that it can be taken out and the dirt on the pen floor swept out into the passage. PARTITIONS The style of partition shown in Fig. 64 will be found suited to the requirements of most persons. The base of the partition should always be at least two feet high ;nd built tight to prevent the fowls from being distracted by whatever may be going on in the adjoining pens, and ulso to prevent floor drafts. Next to the rear wall the partition is carried up tight to the rafters and should ex- tend one or two feet beyond the front perch. This forms a sort of open closet for the perches, helping to keep the fowls warm on cold nights and screening them from direct air currents. The rest of the partition may be of two-inch netting carried up to the rafters. As a rule, the best place for the partition door is close to the front, so that the attendant may pass through from one pen to another with the least possible disturbance to the fowls. Partition doors should be wide — not less than 2^j feet — wider is better — so that it will be possible to go through without crowding, or to use a wheelbarrow in cleaning out the pens. Use double-acting spring hinges, if possible, as they save time and trouble and the doors are sure to close. If spring doors are not used, attach weights to the doors so that they will stay shut without having to be fastened, or use the simple door fastener shown in Fig. 213 on page 101. DROPPINGS PLATFORMS AND NESTS Why Droppings Platforms Are Provided. How to Build Convenient Laying Nests. Droppings platforms should be located about lYz to 3 feet above the pen floor, unless heavy fowls are to be kept, in which case they should not be over two feet. With the platform ly^ to 3 feet high there is room for nests under the platform, which is the most desirable place for them, as a rule. Platform boards should always run the short way of the platform, or in the direction in which the droppings are to be scraped out, which makes cleaning much easier. Use tongue-and-groove boards with a smooth surface, such as flooring boards, and re- member that the lumber will swell when the droppings be- gin to accumulate on them, for which reason the boards should not be driven up tight together, but left with room to expand. Platforms should always be built level, not sloping, and should extend fully a foot beyond the front perch. Platforms are provided in order to keep the droppings from mixing with the litter, also to make the floor space under the perches available for scratching purposes. They should be supported on 2x4 stringers, front and back, so that the platform will always hold its shape and remain level. One-inch lumber when used for this purpose will bend under the weight of the platform and must be sup- ported at frequent intervals. Numerous supports are a nuisance in cleaning the floor, however, and it is better to use 2x4 stringers, in which case the upright supports may be spaced at least eight feet apart. A Manure Pit for the Laying House In some instances droppings platforms are omitted and a 10-inch board is placed on edge on the pen floor, about a foot in /ront of the perches. The droppings are allowed to fall on the floor and accumulate there until it is convenient to remove them. By this plan it is possible -Z l J FIG. 1S3 — MANURE PIT TO TAKE THE PLACE OF DROPPINGS PLATFORM Reproduced from Ex. Bu!. 16, Clemson (S. C.) Agr. Col. to avoid the frequent cleaning that is necessary where platforms are used, and if earth or fine litter is sprinkled over the droppings often enough to keep them dry, they may be allowed to accumulate for a considerable time be- fore there will be anv noticeable odor. The following de- INTERIOR FIXTURES AND EQUIPMENT 93 scription of a manure pit designed to take the place of the droppings platform, and to facilitate cleaning out the droppings, is given by Prof. F. C. Hare in Extension Bulletin 16, Clemson (S. C.) Agricultural College: "The dropboard under the roosts to prevent the ma- nure of the roosting fowls soiling the floor, answers the purpose for which it is designed, but it is unsightly. With small flocks, a frequent scraping of the dropboard will keep it presentable, but, unless large dropboards are cleaned daily, the accumulation of manure from a flock of several hundred hens becomes quite objectionable in even a few days. To remove the manure daily requires labor and time that frequently cannot be provided in busy seasons. "I have designed a manure pit from which the ma- nure can be hauled away in a wagon. It is unnecessary to remove the manure more often than once a month if the moisture is absorbed, and during this time the manure cannot be seen by anyone walking through the house. To absorb the moisture, the manure is covered every few days with an inch of dry earth or sand. This procedure is identical with that prescribed for making a compost bed for fertilizing the garden, so that the manure is being improved while it is being collected in sufficient quantity to warrant hauling it away. "The floor and 12 inches of the front and rear walls of the manure pit should be built of concrete. A good formula is: one part of cement, 2^ parts of clean, sharp sand, five parts of coarse gravel. The remaining, or up- per two feet of the front wall, is made of lumber. The roosts are fastened together in sections to slide forward out of the way, or the sections are hinged to the front wall of the pit and raised with a cord. The manure is removed through a door in the rear. In long houses a door for this purpose is put in every 20 feet. "A road should be made at the rear, or north side of the house, for the use of the horse and manure wagon. The manure and earth, collected in this way once a month, or when required, can be taken to the vegetable or flower garden and used at once. It is an excellent fertilizer. If you wish still further to improve it, sprinkle 16 per cent of acid phosphate over the manure just be- fore you cover it with earth. The acid hastens the ripe- ning of the manure." See Fig. 183 for cross-section of house with manure pit as herein described. Perch Supports There are various methods of supporting the perches. Under most conditions it is desirable to have the roosts back as close as possible to the rear wall, in which case nn;::^n^n /?;.- '2X- ,z/r -/4- ■i'3- PIG. 1S4— S.ATISF-AiCTORY WALL NESTS PIG. 185 — FRONT ELEVATION OF WALL NESTS they may be supported over the platform, either as shown in Fig. 85, where metal lice-proof perch holders are used, or by means of a horizontal bar suitably notched, the bar being supported in front on a short leg or block and in the rear by a four-inch strap hinge, by means of which the perches may readily be raised when the platform is to be cleaned. If the perches are not too long the supporting bar can be attached directly to the sidewalls, but it is not desirable to have perches over 12 feet in length, un- less they are supported in the middle. Instead of hinges, the horizontal bars often are suspended from the rafters by a stout wire at each end. This arrangement makes it practically impossible for mites to pass back and forth from walls to percjies and nothing but the grossest neg- lect will permit mites to infest the house. Perches should be of 2x4 material if over six feet long, and should be surfaced, and the upper edges of the perches should always be rounded. Squace-cornered perches will cause corns, which may later develop into bumblefoot. The back perch should be 10 to 12 inches from the rear wall and the rest spaced 12 to 14 inches apart. Round poles with the bark off make good perches, but should be well seasoned before using, as they are much stiffer than green poles, which frequently bend so badly as to become quite uncomfortable for the fowls. Roosting Closets In severe climates roosting closets sometimes are a necessity in order to protect from injury the combs and wattles of valuable breeding fowls. Fig. 186 shows a sim- ple way of provid- ng such a closet by nstalling a shutter n front of the per- ches, making it wide enough to reach from drop- pings platform to roof. The shutters should be made in sections, as here shown, when the plat- forms are more than 8 feet long. Do not use heavy ma- terial for covering the shutters, as it is not desirable to restrict air circulation more than is necessary to prevent frosted combs. .'\s a rule, burlap will prove sufficient for the purpose. 186— ROOSTING CLOSET FOR LARGE COMBED FOWLS 94 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES Platform Nests The platform nests shown in Fig. 182 are easily con- stiucted and will be found practical and convenient. The brackets and bottom boards are permanent while the rest may readily be removed for cleaning and disinfecting. The bottom board is two inches narrower than the nest par- titions, so that when these are in place there will be an inch space on each side of the bottom boards, which makes the nests self-clean- ing to some extent. Instead of placing the front platform stringer flat, as in the illus- tration, many prefer to make the platform two inches higher so that the stringer may be set on edge, making the platform more rigid. Nests should be made of light-weight material, such as white pine, for ease in handling, but do not use too thin boards. Three-quarter- inch or 13-16-inch stuff is as light as it is advisable to use. Nest boards should be surfaced on all sides. It is easier to keep them clean if smooth and it takes less time and less material to paint them with lice paint or disinfectants. Do not make the nests too long. .\ set of four or five nests is easier handled than when longer. For a set of platform nests the following material will be required. . BILL, OF M.ITERIALS FOR FIVE PLATFORM NESTS Door %x7 Front (below door) %x6 Nest bottom %xl2 Back strip .'. %x4 Top strip, front and back %x2 Partitions %xll Running board %x6 Bracket %x4 1 pr. 4-inch T-strap liinges. 1 wooden button. No allowance made for waste in Orange Box Nests Fig. 188 shows how ordinary orange boxes ma'y bo utilized as nests. Such nests are a trifle small for large -CROSS SECTION OF WALL NESTS nches 6 lin. feet nches 6 feet '/. nches 6 lin feet nches 6 lin. feet nches 12 lin. feet 1 nches 7 lin feet nches 6 lin feet inclies 10 lin. feet Cl ttins. 188 — NESTS MADE FROM ORANGE BOXES hens, but for Leghorns they are quite satisfactory. If at- tached to the wall or partition by means of a couple of hooks and eyes, as shown in the illustration, they will re- quire no other support and can be taken out for cleaning with the slightest possible trouble. Wall Nests A good type of nest is shown in Figs. 185 and 187. The construction is easily understood from these illustrations. It will be noticed that the bottom board in front of each set of nests is hinged at the top so that it may be raised up and the nests conveniently cleaned without moving them. These boards are held in place by means of small screw hooks and eyes. Fig. 184 shows a set of 18 wall nests arranged in three tiers, but for ordinary use eight nests in two tiers are as many as it is advisable to build together. For such a set the following lumber is re- quired: BILL OF MATERIALS FOR EIGHT W.\LL .\ESTS Top hoards %xlO inches 9 ft. 2 in. lin. ft. Back Boards %xlO inches 15 ft. in. lin. ft. Sides %x7 inches 12 ft. in. lin. ft. Bottoms %x8 inches 8 ft. 6 in. lin. ft. Bottoms %x7 inches 8 ft. 6 in. lin. ft. Running boards %x6 inches 8 ft. 6 in. lin. ft. Partitions %xl2 inches 7 ft. in. lin. ft. Front boards, bottom %x4 inches 8 ft. 6 in. lin. ft. Front boards, top 78x2 inches 8 ft. 6 in. lin. ft. Support for running bds-..%x2 inches 7 ft. 4 in. lin. ft. Strips %x% inches 7 ft. in. lin. ft. If T & G boards are used for top, back, etc., get 55 ft. board meas. 2 pr. 1-inch butt hinges. 4 2-inch hooks and eyes. No allowance made for waste in cutting. Sectional Nests. The nests shown in Fig. 189 are adapted for use either in the laying house or for sitting hens. They are built with solid bottoms, backs and ends, and may be stacked FIG. 189 — CONVENIENT SECTIONAL NESTS up one on the other in the fashion of sectional bookcases, which suggests the name. The doors are on hinges and are supported in a horizontal position by means of strong cords or wires, and in this position serve as running boards. They can be closed when necessary, turned to face the wall, or placed in any other position. They can be made in sets of two, three or four, though the latter is not advisable unless light-weight wood is used. For sit- ting hens they should be made 13 to 15 inches high, and about 14 inches square. TRAP NESTS Plans for Trap Nests That Are Easily Made and Reliable in Action. A simple, convenient trap nest that has given the best of service for many years is shown in Figs. 190, 191 and 192. The hen in entering the nest raises the door slightly, which releases trigger B in Fig. 191, and as soon as she has passed from under the door it drops in place and the hen will have to remain in the nest until released by the attendant. Fig. 190 shows all the different parts that enter INTERIOR FIXTURES AND EQUIPMENT 95 into the making of the nest. Use the following key in studying the illustration: A. Galvanzied iron door 9x9 inches square. Edges turned to stiffen. Upper edge has No. 9 fence wire in- serted in fold, this wire extending about J4"'"ch at each end beyond sides of door. B. Wood trigger, %y.% inches in width and thickness, and Zyi inches in length. Has notch cut in lower end. Upper end has common wire staple driven in part way, with an extra staple looped through this one. Is fastened to cross top rail (see Fig 191) so that galvanized iron door will just clear it nicely when raised. C. Top rail %x2xl2 inches. Trigger (B) is to be attached to this rail. D and E, front and back of nest — duplicates; 12^4 inches wide by 10J4 inches high. Bottom rail J^x3xl2j/i inches. Top rail ^ixli4xl2i/^ inches. Side rail Jix2x6y2 inches. Strips are ^gx^gxlO^ inches. Back of nest can be made solid, if desired. F and I, sides of nest, each S^xl05/$x20^ inches. G. Bottom of nest or floor, %x\2]/^y.20y2 inches. H, Strip J8x2.54xl2 inches, used fii't. i;iO— p.xr^TS rkquirkii ts practical TR.\r-NEST mill-way between front and back of nest to hold nest ma- terial in place. See Figs. 191 and 192 for construction of nest and nest in use. The Connecticut Trap Nest By ROY E. JOXES and LESLIE CARD The trap nest shown in Fig. 193 was developed in con- nection with the International Egg Laying Contest at Storrs. The important parts'of this nest are the door and trigger. The door is hung at the top on No. 8 or 9 wire by means of strips of hoop iron tacked along the edges of the door. These strips extend above the top of the door and a hole is punched in the upper end through which the wire runs. The door is made narrower at the bottom than at the top to prevent its binding on the sides of the nest. The door when completed and in place is practically proof against trouble as there is nothing to get loose or wear out. The dimensions of the trigger are shown in the dia- gram (Fig. 193). The trigger is perhaps more easily made from a %x2-inch strip. The 4i4-inch dimension and the 2}/2-inch dimension may be measured off on the two par- allel gdges, which are two inches apart. Then the 45^-inch dimension may be drawn and the }/2-inch one perpendicu- lar to it. These leave only the 25^-inch line to be drawn, which is easily done. The point for making the screw hole is determined as follows: draw a line parallel to the 454- inch side and j/i inch from it. Then measure along this line to a point 2^ inches from the point of the trigger. PIG. 191 — HEN ENTERING TRAP NEST This point will be the center of the screw hole. The screw hole should be large enough to allow the trigger to work freely. It is well to put one of the small tins sometimes used in laying tar paper behind the trigger with the rounded side out. This will tend to let the trigger act more freely. The screw holding the trigger should be placed at a point about Syi inches from the bottom of the nest and 314 inches from the front. The two cuts at the bottom of Fig. 193 show all the other dimensions of the nest. The backs are left open to facilitate cleaning, with the nests hung against the wall. If placed under the droppings boards the tops may be left open also. If used for a large flock the nests may be tiered up in rows, in which case only the top row would need to be covered as the bottom of one row of nests would be the covers for the row below. To set the nests when the door is closed, insert the in- dex finger beneath the door and depress the forward end of the trigger sufficiently to allow the door to open. Open the door until it rests in the notch of the trigger when the FIG. 192 — HEN IN NEST — DOOR CLOSED rear end of the latter is raised. When a hen enters the nest she lifts the door slightly with her back, the trigger at once drops and the door swings shut. A small block is placed under the trigger at such a height that when the rear end of the trigger is resting upon it the front end is held at a point just above the lower edge of the door when closed. This prevents the door from opening inward to admit another hen until the occupant of the nest has been removed and her egg recorded. A stop is necessary in front of each door to prevent the door opening outward 96 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES doors. Whatever form of stop is used should be fastened to the partition be- tween the nests in such a way that it will stop the door flush with the front of the partition. The key to the successful oper- ation of the nest lies in the correct adjust- ment of the door and trigger. MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR A SET OF THREE TRAP NESTS Board.s 2 — %x9 inches. 7 feet long. 1 — '/gxSi^ inches, 3 feet long. 1 — %r4 inches, 3 feet 4 inch long. Furring 3 — %-s.2 inches, 12 feet long. Wire 40 inches No. 8 or 9. Hoop iron.... % -inch. 6 feet lone. Nails v.. pound 6d. FIG. 193— PLANS FOR THE CONNECTICUT TRAP NEST and thus allowing the hen to escape. This may consist of a screw hook bent over a small block of wood or one of the small iron buttons commonly used to fasten cupboard The "Gravity" Trap Nest The trap nest illustrated in Figs. 194 and 195, is one of the simplest and easiest to operate. This nest can be made by any- one who is handy with tools. There are no triggers or special attachments to make or to get out of order. It is 24 inches long, 12 to 14 inches wide and 12 inches high. The top of the nest is covered with poultry netting and the revolving door in front also is covered with 1-inch netting, or with galvanized wire cloth. The sides of the door, as will be seen in Fig. 195, are each made of a piece of ^-inch lumber. The circular face of the door is approximately one-third of a full circle and should measure Xy/i inches, while the straight edges should each measure lYz inches. The two sides of the door are fastened together at top and bottom by means of strips about J^xl^/ inch. The door swings on screws that pass through small holes in the extreme back part of the door frame and are screwed into the sides of the nest. Care must be taken to see that the door swings freely back and forth and is so balanced that when it is open a hen pass- ing underneath will tip it forward. When the door is open, ready for use, it rests on a nail driven into the box, this nail being so placed that the door is just balanced when open. After the hen enters the nest she has to step onto or over a 4-inch strip FIG. 194— Photo "GRAVITY" TRAP NEST WITH DOOR CLOSED from American School of Poultry Husbandry. TRAP NEST This section through side of nest shows dimensions, method of hanging door on screws, also location of nail which supports door when open. Hen in stepping over low board in front of nest lifts door and causes it to roll forward along dotted line. Original drawing from American School of Poultry Husbandry. INTERIOR FIXTURES AND EQUIPMENT 97 that is nailed across the bottom and forms the front of the nest proper. This raises her back so that it touches the door, which then gently rolls forward and closes be- hind her. With a little care in adjusting the door and se- curing a proper balance, the nest is accurate and depend- able. FEED TROUGHS AND HOPPERS Troughs That Fowls Cannot Get Into. Hoppers That Prevent Wasting of Feed. For feed troughs to be placed directly on the floor, the one shown in Fig. 198 is probably as good as any. It cannot readily be upset nor can the fowls get into it. It can be made in any length or width to meet individual ^ requirements. A simple, easily made trough is shown in Fig. 196. It consists of or- dinary galavanized e a V e troughing, preferably four or five inches wide, and nailed to suit- able wooden supports. Bend the ends up to close them. Metal troughs are easy to clean and keep in sanitary con- dition. The wooden trough shown in Fig. 197 is easily and cheaply made. For adult fowls make it with a 6-inch boartj on the one side and a 7-inch board on the other in order to have both sides the same height. The divid- PIG. 196 — METAL FKED TROUGH FIG. 197— WOODEN FEED TROUGH WITH REMOVA- BLE DIVIDING BOARD ing board is provided to keep the fowls from getting into the trough and soiling contents. The ends o.f this board are bevelled and slide in slots cut into the end pieces, making it easily removable for cleaning. Feed Hoppers For feeding dry mash or grain the hopper shown in Figs. 199 and 200 is highly recommended. This hopper is made three feet long, 13 inches wide and 20 inches high to top of roof. A hopper of this size will hold sufficient food for 40 to 60 adult fowls or growing stock for a week. FIG. 199— GR.\IN AND MASH HOPPER FOR INDOOR AND OUTDOOR USE It is not essential that hoppers be fill- ed full once a week. In practice it is found that it is well to fill them about half full; then keep an eye on the m w h e n going about to the coops with water, etc., and re fill any that appear to be getting low. It will be noticed also that the parti- - t i o n dividing the hopper into two compartments is not in the center. As a matter of fact, the partition is set over just half an inch from the exact cen- ter, so that the throat of the side containing the dry mash shall be an inch wider than the side containing whole or cracked grain. The dry inash FIG. 200 — CROSS SECTION OF GRAIN AND MASH HOPPER FOR IN- DOOR AND OUTDOOR USE -METAL FEED TROUGH WITH DIVIDING BOARD FIG. 201— SIMPLE HOPPER FOR DRY MASH FEEDING 98 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES Door for filling remored ir- -■ r^j I i strip to keep hen I r/iONT VI£W FIG. 202 — FEED HOPPER WITH THREE COMPARTMET^TS This easily constructed compartment feed hopper can be used for dr mash, grains, grit, oyster shells, charcoal, etc. Made with sloping top fow! cannot perch upon it. Reproduced from Cir. 26, Utah Agricultural Colleg flows less freely than does grain, and the inch wider throat for the dry mash side is desirable to prevent its clogging. In the drawing of a cross section of this .hopper (Fig. 200) the bottom and ends are made of inch boards 13 mches wide and the sides and partitions are made of half- inch or five-eighth-inch boards. The partitions and roof can easily be made of a good roofing fabric, or of galvan- ized iron. When made of roofing fabric, half-inch strips of board should be tacked to the ends and bottom of the middle partition; then these strips of board are nailed to ends and bottom of hopper, holding the partition firmly in place. Two laths, one on each side, are then securely nailed to the top of the partition and they make the ridge- pole of the hopper. The sloping partitions forming the two sides of this hopper are mjde similaily, excepting that a single lath, planed smooth so that the fowls' combs will not be scratched by the rough edges, is securely tacked along the lower outside edge of the partitions. A single lath is not stiff enough to hold the outward thrust of half a bushel of grain, therefore a piece of '/^-inch wire (telephone wire) is cut the right length and bent over so it can be tacked to the hopper front with a couple of staples and will reach into the lath of the partitions. -This will hold the partitions securely in place. The slats forming the fronts are made of laths, planed smooth, and are nailed about two inches apart. Along the top of the front is nailed a lath, extending inward and slightly downward, as shown in Fig. 200. This makes a "lip" and tends to prevent the chicks from throw- ing out the food as they pick at it. K little grain will be thrown out probably, but they eat from the ground now and then, especially after a rain has soaked the grain, hence there is practically no waste. The cover of the hopper is made slop- ing, just like a roof, and the eaves, should project full four inches over each side. The ends are cut from half-inch box boards and strips of the same material three inches wide are cut for the support of the caves. Two or three laths are nailed lengthwise between the eaves and the ridge to support the roofing fabric which make.i the roof. The lath and eaves strips are let into the end pieces, so the roofing fabric nails closely down up- on the ends. A hook and screw eye in the center- of each end secures the roof in place so the wind cannot lift it. A Simple Feed Hopper For Mash or Grain One of the easiest feed hoppers to make and one that will give good satisfaction, is the one shown in Fig. 201. Use any convenient box — one with the dimensions indicated in the illustration, if available; or, if not, any other suitable size. Remove the top and trim enough off the edges to let it fit between the sides, then adjust it in the position of the dotted lines and nail fast. Make a hinged cover, as shown; or, if increased size is no object, simply saw the upper end off with the proper slant and use the end thus secured for a cover. The hinges can be dis- pensed with, if preferred, nailing a cleat on the underside of the loose top near the front so that when it is in posi- tion it will be held in place by the cleat which rests against the upper edge of the sloping front. If the* fowls waste the food by throwing it out over the front board, nail a piece of lath along the upper edge of the board, letting the lath extend in so as to form a lip which catches any food that may be thrown up by the fowls. SECT/OM PIG. 203. GREEN FEED HOLDER FIG. 20 4— A LOW-COST C01IP.\RTMEXT HOPPER Compartment Hoppers For small flocks a compartment hopper to hold sev- eral articles, such as grit, oyster shell and dry mash, often is wanted. The ones shown in Figs. 202 and 204 meet this need and are easily made. The number of compart- ments that may be provided will be determined to some extent by size of box. They should not be made so small that the contents will not feed down readily. The inside surfaces of all boards used in making hoppers should be smooth, as hoppers made of rough boards are apt to clog. The hopper shown in Fig. 204 will be improved by providing a "lip" on the front of the feeding section, ex- tending inward, as shown in Fig. 200. which will prevent the fowls from throwing the contents out on the floor. Green Feed Holder A convenient means of supplying bulky green food, such as cabbage, mangels, vegetable leaves, etc., is by the INTERIOR FIXTURES AND EQUIPMENT 99 FRONT VIEW END VIEW REAR V'^\y AUTOMATIC FEEDER C.C.MOLK/ICS FIG. 205— THE HOLMES AUTOMATIC POULTRY FEEDER use of an open mesh holder like the one shown in Fig. 203. It may be made of loosely-woven cord, or of 2-inch mesh poultry netting. Suspended from ceiling or rafter at a suitable height, so that the fowls will have to make some effort to reach it, this feeder not only protects the contents frtmi being soiled or wasted, but also promotes healthful e x e r - cise. Pieces of m eat, butcher's scraps, etc., may also be fed in An Automatic Feeder There is always more or less de- mand for an automatic feeder that will meet the requirements of the back-yard poultryman who must be absent from home at the time when the fowls should have their grain feed. This is especially liable to be the case in the evening. Probably the great majority of shop and office workers in this country do not get home from work until after dark, during the winter months, and it is not always possible to have someone else to do the feeding, and do it just the way it should be done. The auto- matic feeder illustrated in Fig. 205 was devised by C. C. Holmes as a means of insuring that the hens shall get their meals on time. It is comparatively inexpensive and sim- ple in construction, and should an- swer the purpose in a very satisfac- tory manner. The following direc- tions for making this feeder are sup- plied by Mr. Holmes. Feed — Take an inch board nine inches wide and 18 inches long. Cut hole two inches square through board Ayi inches from end and sides of board to center of hole. This affords an opening through which the grain passes onto the spreader after the hinged door has been liberated by the trigger. Hinged Door — To be constructed similar to the cover on a tobacco box. and secured to bottom of board in such position as to entirely cover hole. Trigger — After hinged door has been placed, the trigger is to be lo- cated so as to hang plumb, the notch to project slightly over the edge of hinged door. Cut nar- row slot through board long enough to allow trigger to move backward and forward freely. Where trigger passes through top of board make a small hole, through which put a nail and secure same to top of board with a staple at each end. Trigger can be made of metal or wood, with small hole to fasten string. Hopper — To be eight inches square and such height as may be required, the bottom portion to be cut and bent in, so as to form a two-inch square opening at bottom of hopper. .At each corner of hopper solder metal standards of proper length, bent at bottom to receive screw. Plac » V foot Saahd i 2"sface T7^ z.- BucKet I 2 Or Can 1 FIG. 206-CONVENIBNT MASH PAIL FIG. 207-PLATFORJ,I FOR WATER 100 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES two-inch square hole in hopper directly over hole in board and secure same by screwing standards to top of board. The lid of hopper is to be made similar to hinged door on bottom of board. Spreader — To be made of metal, conical in shape, and 12 inches in dia- meter at base, sus- pended with wire hangers soldered to spreader and screwed to bottom of board. Hangers are to be of proper length to suspend spreader low enough to clear hinged door when open. Clock — An o r d i - nary alarm clock is then placed in such a position that it brings the center of spool over center of FIG. 209 — TROLLEY FEED CARRIER board. After clock has been securely fastened with metal strap, which is bent over top of clock and screwed at each end to top of board, plumb down from side of spool and bore hole through which string passes. On bottom of board under hole place small wooden pulley around which string passes from spool to trigger. Spool — To be secured to alarm winder in a sub- stantial manner by welding a short shaft to winder over which slip spool and secure with set screw. Finally — Wind clock and set at correct time, then give spool (alarm) about two turns after setting alarm for the desired time you wish to feed. When the hour comes you have set your alarm for, the spool will turn, winding up FIG. 211 — CROSS SECTION OP WATERING PLATFORM FIG. 210 — TROLLEY ON WIRE CABLE the string which pulls the trigger and liberates the hinged door. The grain then falls upon the spreader and scat- ters in all directions. The feeder is to be hung from ceiling of poultry house near roof, or can be suspended out of doors if so desired. The birds will so in become familiar with the ringing of the alarm and know it is time for the meal. MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT Various Handy Devices for Making the Poultry Work Lighter, and Saving Time. A Mash Pail. Where mash is to be fed, either wet or dry, a pail with a hood that will keep the mash from spilling will be found a decided con- venience. Such a pail in shown in Fig. 206 and can be used in fiilling hoppers or pour- ing mash into troughs without having any of the contents wasted. A Trolley Feed Carrier In long compart- ment houses a trolley by means of which feed, litter, droppings, etc., can be conveyed back and forth, relieves the caretaker of much hard work. The carrier illustrated in Fig. 210 runs on a wire cable and is provided with a grapple by which feed box, bar- rels for droppings, bales of straw, etc., are readily picked up and pushed along to their des- tination with a minimum of ef- fort. Where trol- leys are used, the partition doors generally are made iin pairs and hung on double - action spring hinges, the carrier pushing; them open with- out special atten- tion from the at- tendant. Fig. 209 shows another method of installing trolleys, using 2x4 timbers to form the track and s u s p e nding these on metal stirrups. The li ix shown in illus: ra- tion is held Ijy hooks which can readily be disen- gaged and used in h an d 1 i n g other ^^'G- 212-HOME-MADE OATS =" SPROUTER '°^"^- Photo from Purdue University. INTERIOR FIXTURES AND EQUIPMENT 101 Water Vessels Water vessels may be of metal or earthenware, but should never be of wood. Earthenware is liable to be broken by dropping or freezing, but with careful handling will last a long time and is fairly cheap. Galvanized ware is usually preferred and where the flocks are large may consist of plain 10 or 12-quart pails supported as in Figs. 208 an-d 211. The platform should be wide enough to allow the fowls to stand and drink on three sides and the hole in which the pail fits should be just large enough to hold the pail about one-third above the platform, which gives the fowls easy access to it, and prevents it being tipped over. The stand should be high enough so that litter will not be liable to be scratched into the water. For small flocks and for use in the alleyway shown in Fig. 181, one or one and one-half gallon crocks with stiaight sides are very satisfactory. If to be used in- side the pens, a slatted platform should be provided as illustrated in Fig. 207. For winter use various types of "nonfreezing" water founts are made. In extremely cold climates the most practical plan is to use heated founts. These are pro- vided with a small lamp underneath the water vessel, which keeps the water well above freezing temperature and requires only a limited amount of kerosene for the purpose. Small oil heaters or stoves are available for those who wish to provide homemade devices. It is not desirable to use anything that supplies much heat, nor should lamps with glass bowls or chimneys ever be used. Especial care should be taken with all such appli- ances to avoid danger of fire. Where the cold is not too severe, it is possible to utilize the "fireless cooker" principle in protecting the water so that it will remain free from ice for a number of hours at least. For this purpose an ordinary galvan- ized pail of suitable size may be used providing for it a wooden enclosure to be packed with newspapers, chaff, planer shavings or similar material. The enclosure should be large enough so that the pail may be sur- rounded by an insulating layer two to three inches in thickness. If properly made, the water vessel can be removed for emptying or cleaning without disturbing the insulating material. So protected, a pail filled with warm water in the morning should keep free from ice all day long, unless the temperature drops extremely low. Hook for Catching Fowls For catching individual fowls nothing is better than a crook similar to a shepherd's crook. It may be easily and cheaply made of heavy galvanized wire. Use about S'/j feet of wire so that when the crook six inches has been on one end loop for the on the the finished implement will be at least 4 feet long. The crook should lie left wide enough >o that it may be h e a vi 1 y wrapped with cloth or adhe- FIG. 213— DOOR FASTExNER ^ive tape to protect I about long-) turned .•md a handle r.ther. FIG. 214— PORTABLE DUST BOX the fowls' legs from injury. A loop of lighter wire may be used, attaching it to a wooden handle, but it is diffi- cult to fasten it securely in place and an all-wire crook is not so easily seen and hence will disturb the fowls less. Home-Made Appliances There are various appliances that may be made from empty cans, tin boxes, etc., which will answer the purpose slmost as well as the more expensive ones purchased al the poultry supply store. It is an easy matter to overdo the matter in practicing economy by the use of such devices, however. The true test in every case is not how much can be saved in first cost by the substitution of home-made articles for manufactured ones, but whether they are as good, as nearly wasteproof, and as convenient. If not, then it will pay better in the long run to spend a little money and have equipment that will really answer the purpose and save feed and time. However, the handy poultryman can make grit and shell boxes, watering founts, etc., from waste boxes and cans, which may an- swer fully as well as manufactured appliances. Handy Door Fastener The simple, inexpensive door and gate fastener shown in Fig. 213 will prove very convenient under many conditions. It consists simply of a wedge-shaped wooden block nailed to gate post or door frame and adjusted in width so that when the door or gate swings shut it will bind on the surface of the wedge and will be held se- curely until it receives a strong push or pull. On a par- tition door or small gate, place it low enough so that the foot can be used in pushing the door open. A Portable Dust Bath This dust bath (Fig. 214) is made from any convenient box. with a barrel hoop for a handle, and four pieces of wood for legs. Make it about 12 inches deep and not less than 2 feet square, and set it in a sunny place in the house, when the fowls cannot get out, and see how quick ly they will discover what it is meant for. A Safe Way to Poison Rats and Mice The difficulty of using rat poison about poultry houses without endangering the fowls, can be entirely overcome by providing the appliance illustrated in Fig. 216, par- ticularly if the poison is mixed with corn meal so that 102 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES the rodents cannot carry it out. A convenient size for the box is about 12x12 inches and 6 inches high. However, the dimensions are of no special importance. The top of the box should be removable, but must be fastened securely in place with hinges, hooks, or other- wise, so that it cannot be accidentally dis- placed. Provide a number of l!/2-inch holes along the lower edge as shown. The small tin box, indicated by dotted lines, which is to contain the poisoned food, is to be nailed se- curely in the center of the bottom. The trap is regularly baited with a mix- ture of one-third sugar of lead and two-thirds corn meal. It has proved quite successful in the extermination of these pests. No poultry keeper whose premises are infested with rats can afford to let up in the warfare against them. Provide as many of these safety poi- soning devices as necessary and keep them baited at all times. OAT SPROUTING EQUIPMENT Sprouted Oats Are Unequalled As Green Feed for Fowb. Convenient Plans for Making Oat Sprouters, With or Without Heat. Sprouted oats form one of the best sources of green food and almost every poultry plant these days needs some arrangement for producing them. Where large quan- tities of oats are to be sprouted it is better to have a sep- arate room for the purpose so that temperature and other conditions may be exactly controlled. Pcz-^ voijort mc.'xe.c/ ifi/j^ conn rrts^r rcc e/fe. Cix-C no re J sDocrV' /^t%f lOOf-O' Ol UTDOOR runs are provided chiefly to afforJ I fowls a means of securing plenty of healthful ex- sMFng ercise in the open air, and in a general way are Bubal regarded as indispensable to successful and profit- able poultry keeping. It is true that many back-yard flocks are kept confined to their houses the year around and with excellent results and, of course, yards have little value in the north, in winter weather. Nevertheless, the advantages of having outdoor runs of ample size are so great that few poultry keepers care to dispense with them except with quite small flocks or for- a limited time. One important advantage aflforded by runs or yards, though it often is overlooked or neglected, is the oppor- tunity to produce green food for the hens. A growing crop, properly managed, not only provides a continuous supply of this healthful and economical part of the ra- tion, but by using up the accumulating fertility keeps the ground in a wholesome condition and lessens the danger from disease. Bare, unproductive poultry yards ought to be regarded as inexcusable unless they are necessarily so small that it —a is impossible to keep anything green growing in them. The amount of yard room that should be provided per fowl cannot be arbitrarily fixed. A little is better than none; and a good deal is better than a little. The only general rule that can be given is to provide as much as possible, remembering, how- ever, that the cost of fencing large yards amounts to a considerable fig- ure, and obviously there are limits beyond which it is not practical to extend them. Under most conditions one hundred square feet per hen, di- vided into two runs of equal size and used alternately, will keep them in green food throughout the entire growing season. But the same amount of ground in one yard to which the fowls have access at all times, will soon be picked off so close that the growth will be killed and the ground left bare. Wherever practicable the runs should be made large enough and be so fenced that they can be cultivated by horsepower. Spading is a tedious and laborious operation and, while it must be resorted to with small yards, it is always a handicap, and the necessity for doing it should be avoided if possible. Small yards cost much more in proportion to the amount of land enclosed. A satisfactory arrangement of runs for the laying or breeding flock is illustrated in Fig. 218, in which the house is shown between two runs, one on the north and tlie other on the south side. The width of the yard is determined in this case by the width of the house pen, but it can be as long as necessary or as the limits of available land make possible. In the case of a continuous house the gates in the yard fence next the house should always be made wide enough for the passage of a team so that, in cultivating, the horses can turn from one yard into the next instead of having to make a complete turn in the same yard, which usually results in much injury to the fencing. Fig. 220 shows another double-yarding plan that often can be utilized to good advantage where only a limited amount of land is available. In carrying out this plan, each pen is provided with a small outdoor yard on which no attempt is made to keep anything growing ex- cept, possibly, one or two trees which will afford agree- able shade in hot weather. Adjoining these small yards are large runs occupying all the rest of the available ground and planted to a suitable growing crop. The hens are given access to the small yards at all times, but are allowed to have access to the large runs only when the crop is in proper condition for their use. It is generally understood that fowls, if allowed to overrun a small plot of green stuflf, will soon kill it off, whereas if they are only given access to it for a limited time, the plants will keep growing right along and will furnish a constant supply of green food, week after week. This method of yarding u =1=^ HOUSE PEN i6-crx 2o'-o" SOUTH YA-RD ^Sllde Poor loo'-or FIG. 218 — DOUBLE YARD PLAN FOR SINGLE OR COMPARTMENT HOUSE calls for more fencing and more gates than the plan in- dicated in Fig. 218, but it is well adapted to the condi- tions of the back-lotter, and of small producers generally. .'\nother double-yarding method, where the yards can be any desired width regardless of the width of the house, is illustrated in Fig. 219. BUILDING POULTRY FENCES Directions for Putting Up Wire Fence, That Will Make the Work Much Easier. In building permanent poultry fences it pays to use only the best materials. Fence building is an expensive matter at best, on account of the amount of labor re- quired, and if poor material is used or the work careless- ly done, the final cost is greatly increased. If wooden posts are used, black locust, catalpa, cedar, and chestnut are the most durable of the timbers generally available. It will pay to give the lower end of all posts a coatmg of creosote or hot tar before setting them in the ground. Where sand and stone or gravel are available, concrete posts are cheapest in the long run. Even though the line posts are of wood it pays to make gate, end, and corner posts of concrete. It is not a serious matter to replace EXTERIOR FIXTURES AND GENERAL EQUIPMENT 105 FIG. 219 — DOUBLE YARDING METHOD FOR LARGE YARDS an ordinary line post, but with wire fences, the failure of an end post lets the entire fence down and stretching it a second time may be more difficult than at first. The corner and gate posts should always be larger and set deeper than the regular posts and should be well braced so that they will stand any strain to which they may be subjected. In the purchase of poultry fencing there is only one injunction that can be given and that is to get the best obtainable. Ordinary hexagonal netting, if well galvanized after weaving (not before), generally will last quite well, but it is difficult to stretch it evenly, especially where the fence is to be built on irregular ground. There are other kinds of poultry fencing that will stretch better and pos- sibly last longer, but unfortunately the weight of the fence or the thickness of the wire is no indication of qual- ity, as some comparatively heavy fencing is so lightly galvanized that it rusts out in much less time than lighter wire that is heavily galvanized. Stretch the fence carefully, using a good stretcher, which usually can be secured from the dealer who sup- plies the fencing, if the poultryman does not have enough of such work to warrant owning one of his own. Where the fence must be stretched without a regular fence stretcher the following method, described by Don Harri- son, may be used m putting it up: ■'Among the methods employed for putting up poul- try netting, I have found no way which is so expeditious and in every way satisfactory, as the following: "Nail the boards on which you intend to fasten the bottom of the netting in such a manner as to form a straight line, as netting cannot be nicely put up over a line, one part of which is higher than the rest, without cutting and lapping the netting. Have the posts extend at least 4 feet 4 inches above the top of the boards. "Now drive six-penny nails about i^-inch into the posts 4 feet from the board. Next loosen the roll of net- ting and run a slender stick lengthwise through the cen- ter. I use a measuring stick 8 feet long. Have two per- sons take hold of the ends of the pole and walk as near the posts as possible, thereby cau-sing the netting to un- roll. Now your netting lies flat on the ground. Get on the opposite side of the fence with staple and hammer, and staple the selvage strand to the top or edge of the board, pulling the wire just enough to take out the kinks. Do not try to stretch it. Now one edge of the netting is fastened to the base board and the other edge lies about 4 feet from you on the ground. Pick up the free edge and hook it over the nails previously driven in the posts. Fasten the ends of the netting to their respective posts. »^-««,- FIG. 221 — FEED AND WATER WAGON FOR SERVING COLONY FLOCKS Where fowls are kept in small colony flocks more or less scattered over the fields, a convenient low-down wagon or truck is a great convenience. The wagon here shown on Poultry Plant of Cornell University, carries a water barrel provided with a hose and faucet, a box for feed and a milk can in which a supply of sour milk may be carried, and a pail for distributing feed and water when needed. There is room on the truck also for supplies of charcoal, grit, oyster shell, etc. -PRACTICAL I> Photc H-BLE YARDING METHOD WHEN SPACE IS LIMITED from N. J. College of Agriculture. 106 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES ^^^im^m^'t "y^g^ W\- IKPM. FIG. 222 — CONVENIENT END GATES FOR POULTRY YARDS pulling fairly taut and fastening securely. Make a notch on the end of your pole deep enough to hold the selvage. With this pole push the netting up on the post, having pulled the nail when you attached the pole, until the net- ting is firm and straight. Staple the selvage wire to the post, repeating the operation on each post. After you have done this, staple to the post as much as you think necessary. I use two staples between selvages, making four to each post, and as for the bottom I staple every 2 feet. "With a boy to help unroll the netting, you can put up a roll in twenty minutes. Our yards are on level ground and we have posts sawed 3 by 3 inches and 8 feet 4 inches long. We drive them 2 feet into the ground and put two 12-inch boards at the bottom to prevent the males from fighting." Where the yards are to be used by breeding flocks it is always desirable to make the first two feet solid as described by Mr. Harrison. For ordinary laying flocks this is not imperative, and as this method of construc- tion adds considerable to the cost it is customary to use only one 10 or 12-inch board which is needed in order to have a substantial base to which the bottom wire or sel- vage can be securely stapled. Wire fences usually re- quire posts about every 16 feet with a short post between each to support the middle of the base board and keep it from warping. It is always desirable to make am- ple provision for getting the plow team into and out of the yards. Where the yards are narrow the plan of having the end of the yards closed with one big gate, as in Fig. 222, is a good one. With these gates open the team can be taken into the yard for plowing, turning it in the open space at the foot of the yard. If the yards are connected at the other end with wide gates so that the team can turn through into an ad- joining yard instead of having to make a complete turn in one yard, it is possible to plow and cultivate quite narrow runs with comparative- ly little difficulty. Gate Fastener A simple and effective gate fast- ener is shown in Fig. 223, which any blacksmith can make in a few mo- ments' time. It consists of a strip of strap iron about J^-inch wide and bent in the shape of a U with the stem long enough to extend over the gate as shown. In the closed end a plain iron ring lj4 to 2 inches in diameter is hung loosely on a rivet and the whole device is screwed firmly to the gate post. The ring drops down on the rivet and in this position will hold the gate securely so that it can not be opened until the ring is raised by hand. With a little trim- ming on the inside edge of the top rail of the gate the ring will automatically raise up as the gate swings shut and then will promptly drop into place again. Yard Tools Small yards should be cleaned and spaded at fre- quent intervals in order to keep them free from accumu- lations of filth. Many careful poultry keepers make it a practice to sweep small yards once a week, for which pur- pose there is nothing better than a fibre brush like the one shown in Fig. 224. Where this attention is given, the yards will look better, smell better and keep in much more wholesome condition. Once a month is not too often to spade the yards if they are quite small. It is not necessary to do all the spad- ing at once, but a spading fork like the one shown in Fig. 224 should be kept handy and a small portion of the ground spaded from day to day. The fowls will appreciate the worms that will be turned up. and if the prac- tice is formed of sprinkling a small amount of grain over the ground before spading (oats are excellent for this pur- FIG. 223. SIMPLE GATE FASTENER ^^feM«*! BROOM AND SPADING FORK FOR KEEPING YARDS CLEAN EXTERIOR FIXTURES AND GENERAL EQUIPMENT 107 ^ f considered merely temporary however, every effort being made to get some fruit trees growing in the yards as soon as possible. Fruit trees provide the best of shade and will soon prove a source of additional income as well. MISCELLANEOUS OUTSIDE EQUIPMENT Omit None of These Articles of Equipment That Can Be Used to Good Advantage. They Save Time and Strength. It does not pay to abuse broody hens; neither does it pay to allow them to continue sitting indefinitely before breaking them up. If taken in hand as soon as broodi- jU I'iiciTKCTtiK pose) the fowls will get double enjoyment out of it. If they do not find some of the grain until after it sprouts, so much the better. Flu. 22G— A COlJL SPOT ON A HOT DAY Green Food Protector In small yards it often is desirable to use a frame such as is shown in Fig. 225 for protecting small plots of green stuflf so that the fowls can help themselves to the leaves when they reach the proper height, but which will keep them from trampling over the plants, scratching them out or killing them off by pick- ing out the tender green hearts as they almost invariably do when given the opportunity. Make the frame of any convenient size, using boards 6 to 8 inches wide for the sides and covering with 1-inch poul- try netting, using sufficient cross pieces to hold the wire at the proper height. Shade for Bare Yards It is not as clearly understood as it should "be that fowls and chicks sirffer greatly from extreme heat — more so, perhaps, than from cold, and it is not only an act of hu- manity, but a source of added profit as well, to provide for their comfort during the hot weather by seeing to it that they have plenty of shade. Where there is no natural shade it is necessary to provide it in some ar- tificial manner. Almost anything will answer, though in permanent yards it pays to set up substan- tial shelters, such as the one shown in Fig. 226. These shelters should be FIG. 227— OUTDOOR COOP FOR BROODING HE.N.S ness develops they can be broken up more quickly and will be ready to start laying again in much shorter time than will be the case if they are allowed to sit for several days before being placed in confinement. The best way to break them up is to confine them to a suitable coop such as the one shown in Fig. 227. In warm weather it is more satisfactory, as a rule, to have the broody hens confined to these outdoor coops rather than indoor coops such as are illustrated on page 9L This outdoor coop is used and recommended by the Missouri State Poultry Experiment Station, and its FIG. 228 — OUTDOOR FEED HOPPER fi'om United States Department of Agriculture. 108 POULTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES construction is easily understood from the illustration. The bottom is slatted so that the fowls cannot sit on the floor and so that the droppings will fall to the ground, thus avoiding the necessity for frequent cleaning. The top is made movable so that it can be lifted off to change the hens or to clean and disinfect when that becomes necessary. If placed under a tree or open shed the hens will be quite comfortable, and if well fed will soon be ready to resume laying again. Labor-Saving Watering Device Where large numbers of fowls are to be watered, and a water tap is available, a convenient, labor-saving method is to provide a barrel with an ordinary wooden faucet near the 1> o 1 1 o m, a r - ranged to drip into an earthen- ware crock, gal- \anized pan, or trough of suita- l>le size (see Fig. 229), from which the fowls drink. The barrel is tilled by means "f a hose and the faucet is set to drip just fast enough to meet the requirements of the fowls. Where water has to be hauled and practicable to diich is -attached a suitable tank. WATERING DKVlLE waste must be avoided it use a regular hog-watering device to the bottom of a barrel, oi and provided with a float by means of which a fresh sup- ply is turned on whenever the water in the drinking cup is lowered to a certain level. Outdoor Feed Hopper The feed hopper for grain and mash, illustrated in Fig. 228 is especially designed for outdoor use. It can be made in any desired size, but for use on the range should be large enough to hold two or three weeks' supply of feed at a time in order to avoid frequent refilling. The com- partments can be adjusted as to num- ber and size according to individual requirements. The extended sides and top protect the feed trough from both wind and rain, and the top is covered with a good grade of pre- pared roofing. Top is fastened in place with hooks so that it cannot blow off. In illustration, one side of fig. roof is unhooked and set aside to show interior construction and the middle supports that prevent roof from bending out of shape. A Box for Carrying Fowls Another useful, in fact almost indispensable article around the poultry yard, is a carrying box or crate. It often is necessary, especially where one is somewhat cramped for room, to change young stock from one yard or house to another, separate pullets from cockerels, or double up yards in order to make room for others. With- out a carrying crate the poultryman is obliged to carry the fowls by the legs, five or six at a time, which not only tends to make them wild, but there is danger of in- juring many fine birds. With this crate, which has a small door or a loose lath in the top, a dozen or more can be caught at a time and transferred j,,,,, , ,„„kn uvs.vcK SPKA VKR F. .K iwherever they DISINFECTING AND GENERAL, are. wanted, and SPRAYING this can be done quietly and rapidly without injury to the birds and with much less labor than carrying them in the usual way. A Sparrow Trap In many localities sparrows are a source of con- tinual loss to poultry keepers. Often clouds of them will regularly visit outside feeding places, especially where chicks are fed, and will go through inch-mesh win- dow netting, to get at indoor feed hoppers. As poison- ing is unsafe because of the danger to fowls, about the only means of exterminating them is by the use of traps. The one shown in Fig. 232 is practical and convenient. This trap is made of galvanized wire cloth, or half inch poultry nettingJ|As here illustrated is about a yard in length, and 15 to^B inches high and wide. The ends of the trap are bent in as shown, and provided with a 3-inch hole next to the ground. About this hole sharp- ened wire spurs are bent in so that while the birds have no trouble in passing through, it is impossible for them to fly out again. The white spot near the center of the trap is a piece of bread, used as bait. This trap is to be set on the ground on the lawn or in the poultry yard, and its efficiency will be increased if two or three spar- rows always are left in it as decoys. 231— .SIMPLE CARRYING CRATE FOR FOWLS Wheelbarrows and Carts A good wheelbarrow is an essential article of equip- ment on every poultry plant, and there is no economy in tiying to get along without it. One with a flat bottom and removable sides is much better adapted to the poul- try keeper's requirements than the cheaper kind with sloping bottom made for handling dirt, sand, etc. Hand- EXTERIOR FIXTURES AND GENERAL EQUIPMENT 109 '^p^iis^is^iyy^-'^^^**^ ' '^- H'^ ■)^ -.;ii^^^M|g^'S^fe^ H^Hh^^GI im H^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I^^^^HtfltSf^^^^^'*^ ai ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^K^ B ^^^^B 1 ^H^^fewri'i"' - -' -' -S ^H H^*^^ ' ^^^ sSs^JllHiil l^p? "^^^^ I^^I^^B ■i.. i^ing 49 Scratching Shed 34 Sectional Colony ' 67 Sled-Runner Colony 66 Six Compartment Laying ^ 38 Straw-Loft Laying 45 Straw Poultry 56 Two-Pen Back-Y'ard Poultry 29 Western Washington Poultry 53 With Elevated Floor 53 With Semi-Monitor Roof 50 Houses, Other Warm Climate 48 Houses for Adult Fowls, Location of 10 Illuminating Poultry Houses 103 Incubator House, A Small 80 Incubator House, How to Build 79 Intensive or Extensive Methods 7 Layout for Large Poultry Plant 8 Layout for One Man Poultry Farm 10 Locating Poultry Houses 7 Low-Cost Houses, Building 37 Lumber, How to Order 12 Manure Pit for the Laying House 92 Manure Shed, Concrete 90 Mash Pail, 100 Materials to Use 12 Nest, Orange Box 94 Platform :. 94 Sectional 94 The Connecticut Trap 95 The "Gravity" Trap 9fi Wall '. 94 Nests, Trap 94 Oat Sprouting Equipment 102 Open-Front Laying House 49 Paint 23 Partitions 92 Passageways and Partitions 91 Perch Supports 93 Permanent Brooder Houses, Advantages of 70 Planning co Save Labor 9 Portable Houses, Advantages of 65 Rats and Mice, A Safe Way to Poison 101 Roofs, Different Types of Poultry House 16 Roosting Closets 93 Runs and Yards 104 Shade for Bare Yards :: 107 Shutters and Curtains, Muslin 19 Laying House With Divided 21 Substitutes for 20 Sparrow Trap 108 Sprayers for Disinfecting ...r. 109 Straw Lofts 21 Temporary Poultry Houses, Building 22 Tools 24 Trolley Feed Carrier 100 Ventilating System, King 22 Ventilator, Rear Wall 21 Walls, Constructing the 16 Watering Device, Labor Saving 108 Water Vessels : , 101 Wheelbarrows and Carts 108 Whitewash Formula 24 Whitewash, The Use of 109 Windows and Doors 18 Yardroom Required, Amount of 104 Yards, Advantages of Double ....104 Yard Tools lOS BOOKS FOR POULTRY KEEPERS R^HE sixteen reference books in the R. P. J. Poultry Library — \\D\ published in Two Series— are designed expressly to meet the \^SA need for reliable, up-to-date information on all branches of the poultry industry. One series consists of books devoted to PRACTICAL POULTRY KEEPING, for those who wish to engage in the profitable production of market poultry and eggs. The BREED BOOKS describe breeds and varieties, and give complete information on how to breed and rear superior-quality exhibition fowls. Read the titles! As an earnest, practical poultry keeper, can you afford to do without at least some of these Truly Helpful Books? Seven Practical Poultry Books All About the Profitable Production of Market Poultry and Eggs ARTIFICIAL, INCUBATING AND BROODING — New and enlarged edition just off the press. Com- pletely revised, down-to-date and full of helpful in- formation on how to operate incubators successfully and how to raise the chicks after they are hatched. Worth many times its price to anyone who raises chicks. 112 pages, 9x12 inches, illustrated. Price *1.00. POITLTRY HOUSES AND FIXTURES — New edi- tion completely rewritten and brought down-to-date. The most complete book on the subject. Over two hundred helpful illustrations. Plans for houses to meet every practical requirement. Special chapters on planning and building, also on interior and ex- terior fixtures and general poultry-plant equipment. 112 pages, 9x12 inches. Price Jfl.OO. SUCCESSFUl, POULTRY KEEPING — Size of book 9x12 inches, 176 pages, profusely illustrated. Treats on such subjects as: The Poultry Industry; Value of Standard-Bred Fowls; Starting in Poultry Business; Incubating and Brooding; Market Poultry and Eggs; Turkeys, Geese, Ducks, etc. Price $1.00. EGGS .\ND EGG F.\RMS — Size of book 9x12 inches, 96 pages, well illustrated. Special subjects treated are: The Egg Industry; Successful Egg Pro- duction; Leading Breeds; Egg Markets; Supplying Private Trade; Breeding and Feeding for Eggs; Win- ter Egg Production; Egg Farms, etc. Price 50c. THE CHICK BOOK — Size 9x12 inches, 80 pages, attractively illustrated. Following is a partial list of subjects: Selecting Breeding Stock; Hatching and Rearing Chicks bv Natural and Artificial Methods; Feeding and Care of Young Chicks; Day-Old Chick Business; Marketing Poultry, etc. Price 50c. RELIABLE POULTRY REMEDIES— Plainly de- scribes symptoms of diseases and gives practical home remedies. Special attention to prevention of disease. 86 pages, 6x9 inches. Price 25c. EGG RECORD AND ACCOUNT BOOK — A simple method of keeping accurate poultry accounts. How much do you make from your poultry? It is easy to tell exactly what your fowls are doing if you use this system of keeping accounts. Price 35c. Nine Valuable Breed Books They Tell How to Succeed in Mating, Rearing, and Exhibiting Standard Fowls THE PLYMOUTH ROCKS— Barred, White, Buff, Silver Penciled, Partridge. Columbian. A complete and authoritative text book and instructive treatise. Color plates. 160 pp., 9x12 inches. Price $1.00. THE WY.4NDOTTES — Silver, Golden, White, Buff, Black, Penciled. Partridge, Columbian. An excellent breed book devoted to the Wyandotte family. Color plates by Sewell. 160 pp., 9x12 inches. Price $1.00. THE LEGHORNS — All varieties. Most complete book ever written about Leghorns. Color plates by Sewell and Schilling. 144 pp.. 9x12 inches. Price $1.00. THE ORPINGTONS — All varieties. An instructive book which tells how to select and mate for best results. Color plate by Sewell. 80 pp. Price 75c. THE ASI.\TICS — Brahmas, Cochins and Langshans. Information on mating, breeding, exhibiting, etc. Color plates by Sewell, 100 pp., 9x12 inches. Price 50c. THE CAMPINES — Silver and Golden. The largest and most profusely illustrated work on this breed. Color plate by Sewell. 88 pp.. 9x12 inches. Price 75c. DUCKS AND GEESE — A guide to profitable duck and goose rearing. Articles by foremost breeders. Well illustrated. 104 pp., 9x12 inches. Price 75c. RHODE ISLAND REDS — Rose and Single Comb. The most complete and authoritative book on "Reds." Color plate by Sewell. 88 pp., 9x12 inches. Price 75c. TURKEYS — Their Care and Management. How to mate, rear, exhibit, and market. Beautiful color plate by Sewell. 96 pp., 9x12 inches. Price 75c. THE RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL GRANT M. CURTIS, Editor THE ■WORLD'S GREATE'ST MONTHLY POULTRY MAGAZINE! Encli year it (lives OTCr 1200 psiKCs of practical v foremo.st poultry keepers, breeders. JudKCs, etc.. and illustrated by the itreatest livine rttsts. There are SPECIAL DEP.VRTMENTS on Practical Poultry Keeping;. Back- Itry Keepinit. Monthly Calendar, etc. Xo one >vho keeps fowls can afford to miss ngie issue of this unequalled poultry Journal. Subscription price is only 50c a year. poultr SPCGlAb Save Money By Including a Subscription to Reliable Poultry Journal With Your Book Order. Add 35c to the price of any book listed at 25 cents, or add 25 cents to the price of any book listed at 50 cents or over, and get a full year's subscrip- On Canadian subscriptions add 25c extra for postage, and 50c on foreign subscriptions. The Reliable Poultry Journal Publishing Co., Quincy, Illinois v..^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 002 839 880 3 '%