Text iper :3 u-y GoBTlghtN". COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. this journal a score of [F. THE Tw appeare years we have met with more or less of that imitation which is the sincerest form of flattery. As the quality of newspaper circulation depends largely upon paid subscriptions, we will give the sum of three hundred dollars ($300) if it can be proven that the cash collections from subscriptions of any other textile newspaper, either weekly or monthly, during the year 1 906, were equal to those of the American Wool and Cotton Reporter. The conditions of this offer are that the joumals submitting to this test on both sides shall submit their books to a public chartered accountant, that the inferior party upon either side shall forfeit the sum of three hundred dollars ($300), and that the money shall be divided as follows: $100 to the National Association of Woolen and Worsted Overseers; $100 to the National Wool Growers' Association; and $100 for some form of prize in such cotton manufacturers' association as may be selected. This offer is open until further notice. WOOL an° cotton reporter Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc., 'Publishers 530 Atlantic Ave., Boston 757 Broadway, New York City 308 Chestnut St., Philadelphia Other Offices : — New York, 3 1 Nassau Street ; Washington, 208 Corcoran Bldg.; Denver, 536 Empire Bldg.; Pittsburg, 215 Fourth Ave.; Salt Lake City, 440 Constitution Bldg. RHOADS LEATHER D tZflL^ i 1 IN W k' "CAN HE DELIVER THE GOODS?" is the measure for a man now- adays ; and the same for a belt. B HO ADS LEATHER BELTING will keep your machinery going. Let tis mail you our catalogue. J. E. RHOADS & SONS PHILADELPHIA, 12 N. Third St. NEW YORK, 40 Fulton St. BOSTON, Hamblet & Hayea Co., Eastern Agents, 105-111 Summer St. Factory, WILMINGTON, DEL ^he OTIS TUBULAR FEED WATER HEATER, OIL SEPARATOR AND PURIFIER EXHAUST [INLET EXHAUST ] OUTLET is not an experi- ment but a tried and tested appliance that the makers are not afraid to GUARANTEE To heat the feed water to the boiling point (210 or 212 degrees) with the exhaust steam without causing any back pressure, also to extract the oil from the exha%ist, so that the exhaust steam after being passed through the heater can be used for heating purposes, and the water of condensation for the heating system be returned to the boiler without the additional expense of an eliminator. We are so sure of the OTIS that we agree to pay all cost of a trial — freight, cartage, piping, etc., if it fails to do all we claim for it. CATALOGUE AND PRICES AT YOUR SERVICE The Stewart Heater Company 218 Norfolk Ave.. BUFFALO, N. Y. LANE PATENT STEEL FRAME CANVAS MILL BOXES BASKETS and TRUCKS Made in all styles, shapes and sizes to suit requirements. Fie.za Materials used are always highest quality. Workmanship as perfect as skilled and experienced workmen can make it. Fig. 27.. Our product is the result of years exclusively devoted to originating and developing this highest type and most perfect of all movable mill receptacles. MANUFACTUBED ONLY BT W. T. LANE & BROTHER Office and Works : POUGHKEEPSIE, N, Y., U. S» A. How TO Popularize IRRIGATION BONDS Among Eastern Investors [COPYRIGHT APPLIED FOR] FROM THE Imteb BUttB Jnii^atnr PUBLISHED BY Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 530 Atlantic Avenue, Boston ; 31 Nassau Street, New York ; 757 Broadway, New York ; 308 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia ; 208 Corcoran Building, Washington, D. C. ; 930 Monadnock Block, Chicago ; 215 Fourth Avenue, Pittsburgh, Pa. ; 536 Empire Building, Denver, Colo. ; 440 Constitution Building, Salt Lake City. A Cotton Fabrics Glossary Containing instruftions for the manufacture of every known grade and variety of Cotton Fabrics ^rice\ . . . . $3M Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, Washington, .Pittsburgh, Salt Lake City. Copyrighted, 1907, by Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. }\ Cotton fabrics glossary CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND VARIETY OF COTTON FABRICS [Copy r iff hted 1896 by Bennett's Information Affeucy] "PiP" OR "MARSEILLES." The quilted weave, as applied to cotton fabrics, is known among weav- ers as the "Marseilles" weave. It is a double cloth, the face being a moder- ately close, plain weave. The back is a very open, plain weave. Between the back and face a soft twisted heavy filling, called "stuffing," is woven. The two cloths are stitched together at frequent intervals in weaving, the stitches being arranged so as to suffi- ciently bind the two cloths together, and at the same time form an orna- mental design or pattern. The "stuf- fing" between the cloths gives the fab- ric the embossed effect. THE FACE being plain woven is drawn into hed- dles as for sheeting. The back is also a plain weave, but the back warp is also the quilting warp, and has to be mounted in a "jacquard" harness, un- less the pattern is small enough to be produced on a "dobby." Two face threads and one back (or quilting) thread are drawn into each dent of reed. The construction is shown in diagram. Fig. 1. 11 liW Two threads of face and one HSSfiSS g"^ffl5,?,f'ii"'s of back warp are drawn Into aSnaS" '^"''".F'""'" each dent ot reied. Back warp fflBBDHI Back- Fnimg Is on a separate beam, and con- DHBHBB stuffing Fuimg tains one-half the number of R2RS22 '''"==,f"«''s threads that are in the face nSa^SS Baok Fining* Fig. 1. form the back. THIS CONSTRUCTION calls for a loom with two shuttle boxes at each end of lathe. Large pat- terns require a "jacquard" attachment, while the small designs may be mad© on a dobby head; also two warp beams are necessary. In operation the loom . throws in one back, two face and one stuffing pick in regular order. To make the embossed effect show up well the back warp is woven with con- siderably more tension than the face. AS AN ARITHMETICAL BASIS for the construction of this fabric, about 11 times the square root of the average hank number on face and- back may be used. The "stuffing" should be four times as heavy as the average number used for face and back. On this basis a Marseilles quilt or counterpane, if woven with average No. 35 on face and back, and No. S%, stuffing would have: 64 threads per inch of iyO. 30 warp on face. 32 " " " " 30 " back. 64 picks " " " 42 filling on face. 32 " " " " 42 " back. i 32 " " " " 8% " as stxiffing-. I and if woven 12 quarters square, would weigh about 3 9-10 pounds per quilt; or take a 30-inch vesting fabric, made of average No. 80 yarn on face and back and 40 stuffing. The stuffing yam in this case is only twice the weight of the face, but tnere are twice as many picks relatively thrown in. There is no back filling used in vest- ings. The back, when not used in quilting, is floated. The organizatioa would be: 98 threads per inch on face, . -,, ,„ 9S Dicks " " " Average >,o. 80 .. 98 ■ " " stuffing No. 40. The picks are thrown in two face and two stuffing regularly. At 30 inches wide the goods would weigh 4 65-100 yards per pound. IN THIS EXAMPLE the average number of the face yam is given. The fabric looks better and A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. wears better, if warp and filling on face are alike, but it Helps the weav- ing out wonderfully to have a consid- erable difference between the two, the wai'p being from 10 to 20 per cent lieavier than the tilling. It is beyond the scope of an element- ary article like this to attempt any description of the means used to pro- duce the ornate designs of the fabric. The artist who origmates textile de- signs must draw each design to fit the fabric he is dealing with. Bach fabric has its special characteristics as to de- sign, and each also has its limitations. The characteristics and limits of the fabric under consideration may be tiere stated. COLOR EFFECTS. 1. Color effects are hardly admis- sible. The fabric is essentially a white one. The quilting warp is sometimes colored, so as to show a pattern com- posed of colored lines and dots on a whue ground. The design Is not there- by altered, for the pattern woven with colored stitching may also be woven entirely white. 2. The fabric admits only of a de- ' sign of "dots" arranged to produce large designs. ^.^. In the vestings and fabrics with small patterns, the quilting warp threads, when not raised to make a stitch, are floated. The dots then should be arranged so as to avoid very long floats. 4. On counterpanes the design has to be very large, and has to be pro- duced on a "jacquard" machine of com- paratively small capacity. This calls for a design that can be enlarged in the tie-up of the harness and to this ■end certain parts of the design are ar- ranged so as to admit of several repC' titions. THE NAME "PIQUE" is now generally applied to this fabric when woven in small patterns within the capacity of the "dobby." This name particularly applies when the goods are to be used for ladies' and children's dresses, men's shirt fronts, etc. However, the fabric that is called "pique" when used for dresses or shirt fronts, would be a "Marseilles" if made up into a man's vest. The name "pique" is probably from the French "piquer," to quilt or prick with a, needle. Possibly the name "Mar- seilles" is also a corruption of the French "matelas," a quilt or mattress. A CORDED "MARSEILLES." OT "pique" is essentially the same fab- Tic as the figured article, but is woven rather differently. The warp is drawn into a three-shed harness like a com- mon three-shed twill. To produce the corded effect the harnesses are op- erated by a doboy. Two warps are tised as in the preceding cases, one warp having twice as many threads as the other; the quilting warp is drawn into the back harness, the face warp in the middle and front. The pegging plan of dobby chain is shown at Fig. 2. at stuffing ■ fillinif DDB ama DBH stuffing DHD facT ailing aam Fig. 2. As this weave calls for four picks of face filling and two picks of stuflang in succession, the lathe need only have drop boxes on one end. QUILT WEAVE GOODS shouid be finished so as to preserve, as far as possible, the convexity or puff of the quilting. To this end, after bleaching and sizing, they should be dried on tenter-hooks. The piece goods can be dried on the tentering machine, through which they should run face down. The quilts or coun- terpanes are handled singly, and are stretched on square tentering frames and dried in a hot room. There is a fabric on the market called "P K," which is often confoimded with "pique," the names having the same sound. "P K" is a float weave and the fabric bears no relation to "pique" or "Marseilles.'" TDCKS. Cotton Wash Fabric. A tuck fabric is a single cloth and is made by using two or more warps, is generally composed of all cotton, cotton and silk, and all silk, and can be made on any loom having either a dobby or a jacquard attachment, and single or double box, double box looms, of course, giving great scope for filling patterns. A tuck effect in a cloth is a perfect pleat running across the cloth from one selvage to the other and was used extensively a few years ago in making A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. & lancy bosoms for men's outing or neglige sliirts and ladies' waisting, very elaborate effects being produced by weaving ground cloth in colors either harmonizing with or contrast- ing to that of the tuck. Two different numbers of filling are used in this fabric, namely, a fine one for the plain ground or flat part of the cloth, and a coarse number for the tuck as the tuck is a filling effect, and the coarse filling causing it to stand out more prominently from the ground fabric than would be the case if fine numbers of filling were used to form the whole fabric. In making a common tuck effect two Drawing-in Draft. ODDGODDB DaDDDGBn nnnnDBDn DDDDBDDD DDDBDnoa DDBD ana amaaaaan maauDDan □■aBDBna. ■maBGiia DBDaaaaB ■OBDaaao amanamam ■aaaanac Daaaoana aaa -aaaa aaaanaaa aaaoaDaD naaaaaaa aDaaanaD Danaaaaa aaaaaDBD — aaaaaa oaawnan „• _:„oaaanB S BDBDBDaD -^ aBOBDBDB ^ anananaD ri •o paai o naaaaani laaai uaaanaaa aDBDanan naDBaBDB aaanaaaa aaaaGBDa anaGBDaa DBDWDana aaaaaDaa nBDaaana DaaaDaD DBDI ■ni jn«DBD nanananB BGaaaDan aacBGaaa BDanaGBG DaGaGana ■naaanaa OBGaaaGa BDanaGBG naGaaana BLMUML^MB DGGaDGGB W DBDGGBaG C DDGaGGna -ri GBDD BDG -^ DDGBCGGH <^ DBGGDBGG fi DDDBDaGB " GaGGDaGD \, aBaaaBaaaBaaoBGGDBaGaBDa S . ■aaanaanBGDGBaaGnDanBGGa .a *i DGaDGGaaGDjGaaBDBGaa dog > "tJ DGDDaDaaaanGGaDBaaaGaaaa S £ aGBGBaGaoaaGaaGaaaanaGGn £ ^ GCDBDaDnDaaaaaaaDaanDnna p H GBGBBBnBGBOBDBGBGBGBBBBB m „_^I,P_„_„_„_„_„_„ „ _. IQI BGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBBBC LJi^QBOLl— l^BB^IH^I— ]^l_J^l-JHBLJ^LJiHUJiH '*' _j BGBDBGBDBBBOBGBGBGBDBGBG S S BGBGBOBljBGBGBGBGBGBGBDBG ^ ^ OBDBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBGBDBGB ^ O BGBaBGBGBaBGBGBDBDBGBava ffi GBDBDBDBDBGBDBGBGBGBaBGB " '2 =^ > 'on a (V) 'Q TO — CRINOLINE. composed of filling or all in varying tailors and clothing. low texture FEATURE. Crinoline is a fabric cotton warp, horsehair cotton yarns. It is sold widths, and is used by dressmakers in stiffening It is a cheap cloth of and simple construction, THE DISTINGUISHING being the stiff finish with either a dull or highly glazed face on the cloth. Crinoline, having a horsehair fill- ing, requires a loom of special con- struction to handle the hair, as it is hung in a neat bundle on the end of the loom, the hair being of a uniform length and color, generally black; the mechanism on the loom drawing a strand of hair from the bunch and placing it in the shed formed by the harness. A herring-bone twill weave is used in this grade of the cloth. Practically THE SAME EFFECT can be produced by using a glazed warp thread and a cotton filling. The glazing process is to take the cotton warp thread, and after charging heavily with a solution of sizing, the yarns are run through su- per-heated cylinders and rollers, the Crinoline. effect being a highly polished surface to the yarn. Crinoline composed of regular cot- ton yams is stiffened by weighting the fabric with sizing; the weight of the size, in some cases, equals 20 per cent of that of the yarns used in con- struction. Crinoline is made generally on the roller or cam loom of l-20s to l-26s cotton warp and filling yarn, using 25 to 40 ends and picks per inch, the cloth losing about 10 per cent of it» width from loom to finished width. The warps are sized 6 to 10 per cent and the woven cloth made to absorb 15 to 20 per cent of its weight, during sizing operation. TO FINISH CRINOLINE means to stiffen it. The cloth la DHDWnaDB ■aaDBDBD aaamauam ■DBOBDMa Daaannaa ■DBDaoBa DBDaDBaa Baaaaaaa DnCBDDDB □naDDaan naDGDBan BDDDBDDn cnDBBBannaaa D .aaanoaaDaa aaBanoaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaDDa aanDDaaaaaaD ■aDDBaaaDBaa nGDnnannnann Dnanao dddbd □DDBGDDaDDDB DDBaaaDDanaa DBDDDnnanncD BDaDnDBDDDDa Two Bei>eat^ aDCGDBOGDD DaDDDEBDnG DnDDBDDDDB DDBDDQDBnD DnnnannDD^F nDDBaDDLPn DDaananBDcr naaDDDBcnn anncDaDDCQ DDBBDiriBB DaBBDGBBaaBa BBDDBBaa BBDDBBDaBBDD No. 2. No. 3. No. 1. 1. Crinoline. Plain "Weave. 2. Crinoline. Herring-bone Weave. 3. Haircloth; 5 liarness satin filling ef- fect. therefore taken direct Irom the loonn to the size tubs, and after this opera- tion It is run through the cylinders to dry it, after which the glaze finish is produced by the action of the he&tr 20 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ed rollers in the calender machine. The cloth is then rolled or lapped, to whatever size bolt desired, the bolt- ed pressed in plate press, and the crinoline is ready for the packing cases. Crinoline is usually made In either solid black or cotton in the gray. CRINOLINE. Plain weave; reed700; 1 endpersplit; 27% inches reed; l-26s cotton warp and filling; 36 picks; 20 per cent size in finish. Color, black; weight, 1.9 ounces; IG I square inches, weight 15.1 grains, iinished weight; 16 square inches, ^weight 12.1 grains after sizing is re- anoved. Horsehair is used in manufactur- ing haircloth, a fabric used for fur- niture covering, the weave being a filling effect satin (generally about five harness), to throw hair on the face of the cloth. These satin weaves permit of about 15 per cent more ends and picks than are used in :an ordinary weave. This is due to the ilong floats in either warp or filling effect, satins. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Although the yarns used to make crinoline are what are called coarse yarns it must not be thought that they may be neglected in any way in the carding and spinning, because coarse yarns should not be thrown to- gether any more than the finer counts of yarns. We should not turn our at- tention from the carding and spinning of coarse yarns and let them be run through the different machines until the required count is made, but we should give special attention to the production end of these yarns as it is here we can make the best showing. In coarse counts of yarns it should be our aim to get as large a production from each machine as possible and NOT OVERLOAD THE MACHINE, and at the same time produce as good a finished yarn as possible. Another thing, when making coarse counts of yarn we are not required to take out as large a percentage of waste as when we are making the firmer counts, and while enough waste should be taken out so that the yarn will not be bunchy, still it will be at once seen that the settings will not be as "close" as when the firmer counts of yarn are being made. A low-grade, short-staple class of cotton is generally used for making the class of goods under description. Sometimes this is used straight but some mills use waste from the comber in the mixing as well as the low-grade cotton. ■ Generally TWO PROCESSES of picking and opening are used, the speed of the beater being around 1,500 revolutions per minute, the beats per inch being between 42 and 45. The beater is run at a higher speed on short stapled cotton for two reasons: first, because it is necessary to run it at a higher rate of speed in order to get all the dirt out; and second, be- cause it can be run at a higher speed because there is not so much liability of making neps, for the reason that the staple is short and does not ball up as easily as the long-staple cot- tons. The weight of the whole lap at the finisher picker is about 40 pounds, or about 141/^ ounces to the yard in length. THE CARDS are set so that the tops are about 12- 1000 of an inch away from the cylin- der wire (coarse wire being used on both cylinder and doffer fillets). The llcker-in knives are set as close as possible without touching so that they may throw out as much dirt as pos- sible. The draft of this machine should be about 100, the production from 750 to 1000 pounds for this class of goods and the weight of sliver per yard at the front about 65 grains per yard. The ones in charge of the cards should see that the cards are properly ground because when running large productions of low-grade cotton the wire on the fillet becomes dull and does not perform its duty. TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING are used, generally 6 ends up. As the weight per yard of sliver is heavy at the drawing frame for this class of goods, a point to look out for is to see that the weights attached to the top rolls are sufficient to hold them down so that they will not jump. The weight of the sliver at the point of the finisher drawing should be about 75 grains and the speed of the front roll about 400 revolutions per minute; the hank roving at the slubbers about .40; at the first intermediate fly frame 1.40 and at the second inter- mediate 3.75 to 4.25 hank. From the second intermediate frame the roving goes to the spinning frame, where it is spun into the required yarn, or from A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 21 20s to 26s, being used for this class of goods, i.e., crinolines. Dyeing Particulars. Crinoline linings are generally dyed with a cheap logwood blaclc. Make up a solution of logwood ex- tract at 6 degrees Tw. Add common wood acid, 6 degrees Tw., 1 pint acid, 1 gallon logwood, 6 degrees Tw. Run through two-box machine, pieces run- ning into liquor 8 to 10 times, and through nip of two rubber rollers, liquor at the boil. Dry on cylinder drying machine, and run through chrome bath at y^ pound bichromate soda to 1 gallon water, and run through a steaming box to develop the color. Wash well in water. Starch, y^ pound dextrin, 1 gallon water. Boil the starch up for one hour before starching. Dry on cylinders or on tenter frames, as required. Some crinoline linings are calendered in friction calender, and afterwards em- bossed on embossing machine with a slash pattern. Some crinoline linings are starched by hand in the tub, and stretched on a stenter frame and dried on the frame. DAMASK FABRICS, The name daimask is technically ap- plied to certain classes of fabrics, rich- ly decorated with figures of foliage, fruits, scrolls and other ornamental pattei-ns, usually of a large and elabo- rate character. The weaves usually employed are twills ( mostly satin) and the figures In the fabric are made by alternately exchanging warp for weft surface or vice versia. The materials employed vary accord- ing to the purpose to which the fabrics are to be applied. In the manufacture of upholstery cloth for hangings and furniture covering, silk or worsted is used, while for tableoovers, towels, nap- kins, etc., linen is generally employed, except in the cheapest grades, when cottoin is the material used. The name was derived from the city of Damascus, when that city was a centre for the production of textile fab- rics, and originally was applied only to silken fabrics, whose designs were very elaborately woven in colors and often with gold thread. About the twelfth oentnry the ahove- mentioned city, even then long cele- brated for the production of its looms, so far outstripped all other places for beauty of design, that her silken tex- tiles were in demand everywhere, and thus, as often happens, traders fastened the name of Damascen or Damask upon every silken fabric richly wrought and curiously designed, no matter whether it came or not from Damascus. In order to explain the modus oper- andi for the production of damask in this country, suppose we place our- selves in the position of a public de- signer, whose specialty is the designing of patterns for such fabrics. THE SKETCH. The first step in the operation is to prepare a dozen or more sketches, which are to be shown to manufactur- ers to take their choice. A specimen of such is illustrated at Fig. 1 (reduced), the original of which is drawn on ordi- nary tracing paper, the exact size, as it will appear in the cloth. This design or sketch is to be made into a damask tablecover, having 50 threads warp and 44 picks weft per inch, the figure of which is to be a 5- leaf 4 — 1 satin twill (warp face) and the ground a 5-leaf 1 — 4 satin twill (weft face) . PROPER DESIGN PAPER. The next step to be taken is to se- lect the proper designing paper.the size of which, that is, the number of rectang- les, warp and weft.in each large square, must be in the exact proportion to the number of threads (warp) and picks (weft) in one inch of the finished cloth. The mode of figuring is after the fol- lowing manner: Paper for warp ruled eight rectangles per large square; paper for weft ruled in the same ratio to eight as 44 is to 50. Operation: x : 8 : : 44 : 50; there- fore 44x8 equals 352 divided by 50 equals 7.04, answer. 7.04 is near enough to call it 7; therefore, 8x7 is the proper size of design paper required. TIE-UP. Then the tie-up must be considered, which in the present ins'tance will be a 600-hook, with the tie-up as illus- trated at Fig. 2 French system- point for border, and straight through for body, in six divisions. The next process is to enlarge the de- sign as it appears in the sketch, so that one repeat will exactly fit on 600 rec- tangles (warp) of the designing paper selected. That portion of the border shown at A, in confoirmity with the tie-up should occupy the first 15 squares or 120 rec- tangles; that shown at B the next 15 squares or 120 rectangles; that por- 22 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 23 tion shown at C is not required on the design paper, because it is a repetition of that part shown at A, but simply re- versed. For the body of the design shown at D, 45 squares or 360 rectangles will be thre)aid:S in one repeat of weave (satin), will not divide into 308 evenly, 310 must be taken (310 divided by 5 equals 62). Therefore the design will occupy 600 rectangles (warp) times 310 rec- tangles (weft). required, which will complete the 600 hooks of the machine. Summing them up they will be as follows: Portion A = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles ) „ ^ Portion B = 15 sq. X 8 = 120 rectangles j" Border. Portion D = 45 sq. X 8 = 360 rectangles ") — i-Body. 600 rectangles J In order to ascertain how many squares or rectangles the design will occupy weft-wise the sketch must be measured, which in this case happens to be seven inches. Therefore 44 picks per inch times 7 inches equals 308 reotang'les; but as 5, the numher of PAINTING IN THE DESIGN. After the design is transferred to the design paper, the next process is to paint in the weave, in the following manner, or as shown by a piortion of the design, taken from sketch at E, and illustraited by Fig. 3. 1. Paint in the figure in solid red ( Vermillion or scarlet lake), keeping well within the lines. 2. Paint in the 1 — 4 satin twill in the ground, running the twill toward the right. 3. Paint in the 4 — 1 satin twill in the 24 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. figure by using black palint over tihe red. Twill to the left. Ill joining the ground and figure twills great care must be exercised so as to effect a clear outline between figure and ground, which is done by the following method: Where it is possible to bring a riser fblack) of the grooind beside a sinker (white) in the figure weave or vice versa, it must be done and in some cases, where the risers and sinkers will not join, it is well to alter the weaves slightly 90 as to effect it; and where it is impossible to do this, then tIhe weaves of each must not be extended border join perfectly with that of the body; and this is done by carefully ex- amining the tie-up so as to ascertain which warp threads will join each other in the cloth and take steps to make a perfect juncture. In this particular instance, warp thread No. 1, which is the first of the border, is in juxtaposition with warp thread No. 241, which is the first of the body. (See Tie-up, Fig. 2.) There- fore the satin twill of the body, com- mencing with 'warp thread No. 241, sihould cointinue, without a break, th© satin twill of the^ border finished at warp thread No. 1. aOaDanniDDDDBDnnDBDDDDBDDDDBDnCDBnCDDppDpCHpD Dn"jBuaDDllDDD_»aDDU»DDDLJiGDDGilLQLD»DDDDBGCL[lB «iad3G«jaDDiianDDHaDDD«DDnDBDDGnppi_pnHpnpcakGL,cj GDGBGanaHaGaDHJGGGHGGGCBGGGGBGLGGBGGGLBGGLLfcp BGGGaBaaaaBUGGaBaaGGBGGGGBGGaGBGGGGBGGGGBGLGG DGBaaaJBGL^GGBGauDB ggqbggggbggggbgdggbgggdbgd DGGGBaGaaBGCaaBaaGDB- GGGBGaaaBCGGBBDQGCBDGGCB aBaGGGBajaaBGaaaBaaGGBaaGDBGaGDDBBDGBGGGGBGC'D DaGBnaGaBaaaaBGaGaBaGunBGGGaBaDaBBQQGGBQGGCBU BaQaaBGaaDBJaGGBaaGaBaaGGBDGDaDBGBDBGODGBDCGD GGBGGaaBaGaGBaGDaBGGGDEaQDGQGBBBBBGDGBDQGGBDD DaGGBJLJGJBGGaaBaaaGBaaGDBQDBBBBBBQBDODGBQCGCB DBGGJGBa jaGBaJGaBGGGGBnL DBBBBBBGBBCDBGDQCBGCG GGGBGGGGBaGGGBaaGGBGGDBBBBBBBDBBBBGCDGBGCCGBa BaGJaBGaGGBGDuaBGaaGDBBBBBBDBBBBBLCBGCCCBCCGD DnBGGG JBGaGGBG .aGGGBBBBBBDBBDBGBBCGGCBC GGC BCG DGGGBGGaGBGDGaBaaDBBBBBaBBBDBBBBBGBDDGCBCGCCB DBGGaGBGG jGBDGaGBBBBBDBBBBDBBBBDCCDGBCCCCBGCa DGjflJGGGBaGGBBBBBBBGBBBBDDBBBaBBDBGGDGBGGCCia BaDGGBGaaBBBGBBBBGBBBBBaDBBGBBBBLGGBGGDGBGGGa DGBGaaaBBBGBBBBGBBBBDBGDBBBBBBBGBGGGGBGGGGBLG aDGaBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBGDBBBBIDIBGCGBGDGGBGGGLB GaaBBBJBBBBaBBBBGBBBDDBBBBDBBBGBGCLGBGGGGaGGO DBBBGBBBBDBBBBGaBBBaDBBBGBBBBBCCOGGGCKCGGCBa BBDBBBBGBBBBaBBBBGGGBBGBBBBIlBCBCGGGBGGGGBGGGG GBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBGDGBBBBBBCBBBGDLBGGGCBGGGEBLG BBBGBBBBI IBBBBBBDGDBBBBBDBBBBGBCGGGBGGGGBGC L C B BaBBBBaBBBBBBGaGBBBBBGBBBBBCGrGBCGGLBGGDtBCGG BBBBGBBBBBBaGaBBBBBaBBBBBBDGBGCGGBCGGGBGGGCKa BBaBBBBGBDJGDBBBBGBBBBGBBaGDGDBGGGGBGDCLBCCGG GBBBBaBBGGaBBBflGBBBBGBBBGOrBGGGCBGGGGBGGCGBL D BBBGBBBGGaBBBGBBBBGBBBCGBi: CCIT BLGGCBC CC GBGC CCB BGBBBJGDBBBGBBflBGBBBBDGGGCBGCGCBCCGGBGGCGBC CG BBBBGaGBBGBBBBGBBBBBBGGBGCGCBGCGCHCGGCBGC'CCBG BBGGaBBGBBBBGBBBBDBBGGGGGBCGt C BCCGC BGGGCBGC CO BGGGBBBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGGBCaGCBCCGGBCDGCBCGGCBLn GanBBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBDaGaGBaGDCBCCCCBCGCGBGGGCB aaBBBBGBBBBaBBBBQBBaGBaGrGBGCDtrBCCCCBGC C C BC CO GBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBDGDG' BGnGGBQCGCBr GGCBQCCCBLl BB JBBBBGBBBBaBBBBDaGBaGGQBGGGGBCCGCBCGOCBCCGG GBBBBGBBBBDBBBBBGBG -GDBaOGGBDGCGBCCGr BCCC GBCD BaBGBBBBDBBBBBBaGCGBrnGGBaGCaBrrCCBCCGGBCrCCB ■ aBBBBGBBBBaBBGGBGGnDBDGGGBnGrGBGDGCBCDCCBr.GG BBBBDBBBBGBBBanGGGBaGGGBGnGGBCrrCBCCCGBCGCCBD BBaBBBBDBBBaDGGB nnGBQaanBGGC CBDDCCBCCOGBGCCO GBBBBGBBBBnaBGGaGBGGGGBGGnGBraaPBGCGrBGDOCBCG BBBnBBBBGaanDGBGaanBCGaaBDGDPBaaGCBGGGC Bcccr B BaBBBnBGaGGBIGGGBaGG-BGanGBGGaGBGaCGBCGCCBCCa BBBBBaGGBGnnGBaGGGBaaaaBG^ GDBGDGGBCGCGBCGC C IG BBBaGBGGaGBaGnGBGaDa'GanCBrQaGBGGGGBrGGCBCCGG BGGnaaGBGnanBaGGaBananBQGrcBDGrrBGCDGBccGCBrG GGGGBGGQGBGnanBG^GGB'^aaGBGGrGBGaaDBGnrCBGQCCB DBGGGGBGaGnBGGGGBGnnaBG'^GaBDQGnraGGCBGGaGBCGG DGnBGaGGBaGGGBnGOaEGGGGBGnGGBGGGGBaCGCB' CCGBD ■DnDaBaGaGBaDaQBQGaaBGDaaBODaGBGGGGBGGGGBaGDD Fig. 3. so as to actually join, but a certain leng'th of weft in the ground must join a certain length of warp in the figure. (See portion of d-esign. Fig. 3.) When painting in the satin twill of the ground in the boirder of the design it is necessary that the twill should ex- tend to the right for one-half the dis- tance and to the left for the remainder, therefore, as this brealving of the twill line causes a slight imperfection, which is unavoidaible, care must be used so as to make the break in such portion of the border as will render it unno- ticeable. Again it is necessary also to be care- ful so as to make the weave of the WEA\^S TO USE. Athough in the majority of damask fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally 5 and 8 har- ness), very good effects are sometimes obtained by combining other weaves with the satin twills. For instance, one side of a leaf may be painted in with a satin twill weave, and the other side may be a straight twill, thus giv- ing the leaf a shaded effect, which may be very pleasing. Another method of shading and the one generally employed is to gradually change from warp-up to weft-up or vice versa, as illustrated by Fig. 4. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 25 TWO METHODS OF MAKING DAMASK. In daanask there is proibably a greait- er field for the production of large fig- ures than in any other class of weav- ing. There are two methods of weav- ing damask. First, by the use of the or- dinary jaoquard, which is discussed in the present article, and second, by the use of What iscalled the compound pres- sure harness. By t)he first method, although very elaborate figures can be woven and a fine cloth produced, yet by the siecoind method a command is oibtained over four or five times as many warp threads as by the first.thus aliowingthe production of a fabric of much finer texture and even more elaJborate crnamentation. A description of daanasik weaving by □■aanDBDZDDaacnnBnaDDBnn DDDBanDnilLiauDaDuDDBDDUDB ■aDDDBDaDDBuDUaBDDDU«nca DDBDQ^DldDDunMaGQDaDDDDBa DBDDBiJUDLJMDDauBDDDDBDaan DBDBQDBIUaDDMDGrjDBDDDDaiDa BanBUBaOBUDDDBDaUDBULjDDB BDBaaBDBDDBDQG^ BDaUDBDUD nDBDBuaBaBaDBDDDaBDDDDBD nBaDB-.BGnBaBDCH[JUaGBaDDG DBQBanBGBDDBDBGDBGGDGBDn BaGBGBaDaaBGGBDBaaBGGGGB BaBaaaaBaGBGBQDBQBGaBGna DBBGBQGBGBOaBGkDDBDBGaBU OBGBBGaaaBaBDaBDBaaBGBGG aBGBGBBaBUaBGBGQBDBaGBL B BaaaaaGBBaaaaBGaGaBDBGGB BaBGBBGBaBBGBaDBGBGGBGBG DBBGaaBBGaaaaLBGGBDBGGBa aBjBBQBGBBaBGBBQBl jGBGBGG BBQBDBBaBaBfl^BGBBDBDGBGB BaaBDBaBBGaGBBGflGBBGBaaB BGBGBBGBGBBGBGBBGBGBBDBa BBBGBGBBGBGBBGBGBBDBGBBG GBBBBGBaBBaBGBBGBGBBGBGB BBGBBBBaBQBBGBGBBDBGBBLB BBBBGBBBBGBGBBGBGBBGBGBB BGBBBBGflBBBGBGBBGBGBBCBG BBBDBBBBGBBBBGBGBBQBGBBG DBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBGBBGBGB BBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBGBBGB BBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBGBB BGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBBBBGBG BBBGBBBBGBBBBQBBBBUBBBBa □aaBBaBBBBGBBBBDBBBaGBBB Fig. 4. the use of the compound piressure hiar- ness will be given later. Where damaslis are made all of one color, which is generally the case, as in white linen tableoovers, the effect is given by the threads lying at righit angles to each other, and the light fall- ing upon them brings the pattern in bold relief and makes it easily visible. FINISHING OF CLOTH. As it is impossible in the sicope of the present article toi describe the bleaching, dyeinig and finishing of all the var*iO'US damask fabrics, we can at least say this — that in the case of the linen tablecovers, toweHs, etc., all the finisihing required is bleaching, starch- ing and pressing. But as the beauty of the faibrie large- ly depenids upom its whiteness, it is es- sential that the bleaching of the cloth must be very carefully done. It is on account of the excellence of her bleacheries that Ireland has beetn able to make Irish linen famous the world over. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Oottom damask is made in several grades and should be considered as be- ing made in mills equipped with ma- chinery for making medium and high- class goods. The grades of cotton used for this class of cloth are middling to good middling, the staple varying from 11/4 to 1% inches strong, according to the grade of damask to be made. THE MIXING sho'uld be as lai'ge as posisible and, if good waste is used, i. e., siliver waste from the front of the cards, and draw- ings, also sliver waste froim sliver lap machines and combers, and cut roving waste from the sluibber and fly frames, it sihoiild not be used in larger propor- tions than 1 to 3. In up-to-date mills and in fact most mills nowadays it is the general custo'm to have a wasite machine intO' which the cut waste fro^m the slubber and fly frames is picked. This is called A WASTE MACHINE. This imac!hine is constructed so as to take out all the twist in the roving anH generally has for this purpose two or three porcupine beaters, and the cut roving waste is delivered in a fluffy sheet, from which all the twist has been taken. The good sliver waste from the machines above mentioned is mixed with the raw stock, while the cut rov- ing waste!, after being run through the waste machine, is fed to a picker and made ihto- a lap of the same weight as tlie laip ibeing used at the finisher pick- er, for this class of goods, and then' THE WASTE LAP is run throiugh with the raw sitock lap at the finisher picker in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to 'O-ne of cut- waste, the cut waste being generally put SO' that it will come in the ' centre of the delivered lap. The cotton, after being mixed, is put through a hopper opener and either two or three procesises of pickers, two processes being best, the speed of beater being 1050 revolutions pejr min- ute' for openers, 1,500 for breakers and 1,450 for finishers, also 1,450 revolutions per minute for intermediate pickers, wfhen used. This gives about 42 beats per inch at the finisher. The, weight of laps should be 40 pounds at breaker, 37 pounds at intermediate and 36 pounda at finisher. , 26 A GOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. TUB CASJ^S should be set close, the speed of the flats making incompilebe revolutions •every 50 minutes. The draft of the card for this class of goods is about 110 to 125, dO'ffer 24 inches, ahout 13 revolu- lions per minute,26 inches doffer, aibout 12, the pro'duction being aibout 500 pounds per week. In the drawing frames ithe rolls sihoula be set % of an inch longer ahan the staple between 4ihe first a;nd second rollis, and imcrease Vh of ain inch between each set of rolls towards the hack. The speed of tihe front roll s'hould be about 400 revoiu- rtions per minute. The general instruction given in a iwevious lesson on ginghams may be followed, except in the case of the hook jToving. IN THE FINER GRADES tof damask the comber is used and then oibbin, if she allows the bobbin to go to the spinning or mule room. The hand gathering the roving waste should be oarefull not to mix the different sta- ples and kinds and it should be taken to the picker i^oom and placed in the different bins, provided for roving waste, which bins SHOULD BE PLAINLY MARKED as to staple and kind. The one oolleot- ing the waste shoiuld report all cut waste found and also those making an excessivei amo^mt of waste to overseer. The overseer should keep an account of this roving waste, as well as the good waste, so that he may at all times know jusit how much is miade. In this way he is always in touch with the waste made in different departments and al- ways know whether too much waste is being made. The boss picker is the best man to weigh all wastes, because it is to his department thait the kick is made on account of bad lap®. Reports axe generally sent in once a weelc with the amooint of waste for each day. Damask Cloth Bleaching. First, Iboil with 4 degrees Tw. caus- tic potash for 8 to 10 hours. Run throu'gh'wfashing machine and place in kier for second boil, with 4 degrees Tw. oajuistlic pidtash. Boil 8 to 10 hours. Tihe kier is the ordinary bleaching kier. After second boil, run through washing miachine. Pass through solu- tion of bleadhing powder at % degree Tw. and plait down in bin for four hiours. Plate through suiUphuric acid V2 degree Tw. and wash well with ■wiasihing maichine, till all trace of acid is eliminated. Starching: 8 tO' 10 ounces cornstarcih; two ounces white coiooanut oil soften- ing; one gallon water. Pass through starch mangle and dry on cylinder dry- ing machine. Damp pieces and give a calender fin- ish. ANOTHER HAMMOCK CLOTH. Hammock cloth is a fabric composed of either jute, cotton, silk, silkaline or linen, and is intended for just such use as the name implies, that of a swing- ing couch or hammock. The all-cotton hammock is the most popular, and finds the readiest market. Hammocks composed of other material than all cotton are the exception, not the rule. The TWO MOST IMPORTANT FACTORS to be considered in the construction of A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. this fabric are: strength, and a pleas- ing color arrangement or combination, good yarns being used to provide the proper amount of elasticity of fabric, therefore strength. Hammock cloth, when manufactured into that commodity known as ham- mocks, is more of a luxury than an ac- tual necessity, being used only for out- door purposes in warm weather. Hence the importance of attractive COLORING. Dry colors are used in cheap grades such as retail at about 75 cents. Fast colors are used in expensive grades, the price of which is from $1.50 upward. In all cases bright, rich, lively shades of color are necessary. Those colors most commonly used are red, blue, purple, pearl, black, white, green, as well as others in both light and dark shades. Hammock cloth is most successfully woven on the dobby loom, the very loose texture permitted by the use of twill weave. In making a warp for a hammock, the colored and plain yarns are spooled upon six-inch spools. These are set up in the creel rack by the warper, in ac- cordance with the pattern or color ar- rangement desired. THE WARP is made upon a section mill, each sec- tion being warped and run upon the mill the desired length; the number of sections in the completed warp is fig- ured out by the warper, according to number of ends to be used, and the capacity of the creel rack. To replenish a warp in the loom, if the same harnesses are to be used in the same manner as the warp just finished, the new warp is placed on the fioor directly behind the loom to be filled, and the ends of both warps tied to- gether by using a flat knot, the same as Hammock Cloth. cheap grades being made with a SCRIM WEAVE and from 6 to 8 ends and picks per inch, % cotton yarn. By using the dobby loom very rapid changes are pos- sible, by altering the drawing-in draft wherever necessary. This is impor- tant in sampling and is rather expen- sive when applied to the jacquard loom. In creating hammock styles, very elaborate imitation jacquard figures are produced by taking a design suit- able for a dobby loom of about 20 har- ness, generally twill effects; and by dissecting the design and applying the parts (straight or reversed) to a series of broad and narrow colored stripes In the warp or warp pattern, we produce an effect BOTH INTRICATE AND ATTRAC- TIVE. Care should be taken, hov/ever, to in- sert several small stripes of plain weave, as this prevents the cloth from pulling out of shape on account of the is used, in tying in carpet warps. This fabric requires ABSOLUTELY NO FINISH and is made up into hammocks imme- diately after leaving the loom. Hammock cloth is made from 34 to C4 inches in width, and always of three or more ply yarns. A good grade of hammock cloth can be produced by using: 3-lOs cotton warp and filling; 750 reed, 42 inches wide; 18 ends, 16 picks per inch; weigh 8^4 ounces; measure about 38 inches from loom. Warp pattern: 19 Light green 8 White 46 Navy blue 4 Black 23 Light Green 4 White 15 Light blue 4 Light green i 29 Dark green 4 White 64 Navy blue 8 White 64 Navy blue. 12 Black 64 Light green 10 Black 378 ends top to bottom, reverse. Do the same in drawing In. 28 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Carding and Spinning Particulars For this class of cloth, either a low- grade of short stapled cotton is used, or, as is more generally the custom, waste. When straight cotton is used, quantity is more to be looked out for than quality. By this it is not meant while the production may be greater for a short length of time, the ends breaking down at the front and the time lost in piecing them up constitute only one of the items that more than makes up for the loss in production of a more slowly driven machine, which will run more steadily and make even- er yarn. that quality is not considered at all, but that quantity or production is THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT of the two for this class of goods. The quality should be the next point. Get all the production that is possible from every machine, but always have one thing in mind, that it is not always the greatest speed of the front roll to- gether with the heaviest weight per yard of sheet, sliver, roving or yarn be- ing delivered that gives the most pro- duction at the end of the week. There is always a speed over which it is foll5' to drive a machine because. ANOTHER THING that must be taken into consideration when reading these articles is that, while we describe the different proc- esses through which the cotton has to go to make the required finished yarn, for the cloth, also the general settings of the machines required it would be al- most impossible for one mill to make every cloth that will be described so that it must be understood by the read- er that when reading the details of the different grades and kinds of cloth that one mill makes only several cloths of the same grade. So, A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. 29 IN ORDER TO AVOID CONFUSION in the future, let us divide the mills in- to three different parts, first those us- ing waste and low-grade cotton; sec- ond, those low and middling grades of cotton, and third, those using middling and high grades of cotton. While the differences are not so great between the first and second and the second and third as between the first and third.stlll the differences are there in the number of processes used and the size of rolls also size of wire on certain machines. All that is asked of the reader is to con- sider which division of the mills the cloth under description belongs to and the rest will be very clear. Hammock cloth, of course, belongs to the first- named division. For this class of goods the cotton is put through, opener and picker; the speed of beater is one of the points to be looked after. AT THE CARD coarse wire is used on both fillets and the speed and setting of the dofCer comb should be looked after to see that it is properly stripping the doffer. At the drawing frame a smaller second roll should be used so that the rolls may be set close enough together as the staple of the cotton being used is very short. A-t the slubber and fly frame this is also true. The one watchword with this class of goods is production. Particulars for Dyeing Yarn. LIGHT OLIVE. One-half per cent benzo dark green GG; % per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 120 degrees F. and raise to 180 degrees F., give six turns. Benzo dark green GG, and chryso- phenine are colors from Elberfeld Far- benfabriken. VIOLET. 1% per cent benzo fast violet R; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- ter at 120 degrees F.; give six turns to 180 degrees; color from Elberfeld Far- benfabriken. YELLOW. 2^4 per cent fast cotton yellow C, ex- tra; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 120 degrees F.; give six turns to 180 degrees F.; color from C. Bischoff & Co. ORANGE. 2 per cent fast cotton orange 6R, Ex.; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 120 degrees F.; give six turns to 180 degrees F.; color from C. Bis- choff & Co. RED. 314 per cent benzo fast red GL; ^^ per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 120 degrees F; give six turns to 180 degrees F.; color from Elberfeld Farbenfabrik- en. BLACK. 5 per cent direct deep black E, extra 30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 180 degrees F.; get up to boil, give eight turns; Farbenfabriken of El- berfeld. PURPLE. ^V2 per cent benzo fast violet R.; 30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- ter at 150 degrees F.; and give eight turns; Elberfeld Farbenfabriken. BLUE. 3V2 per cent fast direct blue R.; 30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; en- ter at 150 degrees F.; give eight turns at boil. C. Bischoff & Co. BROWN. 3 per cent direct brown NX; 30 per cent Glaubers; 2 per cent soda; enter at 150 degrees F.; give eight turns at boil; C. Bischoff & Co. A great variety of colors are used in hammock cloths. TERRY CLOTH OR TURKISH TOWELING. Terry cloth or Turkish toweling is a fabric composed entirely of cotton yarns. In effect it is a single cloth, having rows of loops, formed by warp yarn, in regular order, on each side of the cloth. In making this fabric, it is necessary to use two beams. No. 1 or the bottom beam contains the warp for making the body or ground of the cloth. No. 2, the top or terry beam, contains the warp for making the loops in the cloth or terry effect. Terry cloth is used in the manufacture of towels and Turkish bath robes, and, as to color, there are solid bleached towels, towels having side and cross border color effects, also stripe patterns for the bath robes, fa- vorite colors being navy blue, old gold. ?0 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cherry red, light green, etc. The warps are of 2-20s to 2-30s cotton and the fill- ing 1-20S to l-30s cotton. Terry cloth is a narrow fabric meas- uring about 25 inches from loom and can be made on the roller or cam loom or the dobby or jacquard loom, either style of loom of course having the terry motion attached; the jacquard machine being only necessary in mak- ing fancy border effects in conjunction with the filling box motion. Very good cross border patterns are produced on a mutual loom, having terry motion and dobby attached. The terry weave is the three harness twill -weave dissected, and the different parts of this weave placed together again in such a manner as to permit the forming of a series of loops on each side of the cloth in regular order, by the top or terry warp weaving slack, using only sufficient weight to permit of correct shed'lmg. In making terry on a roller or cam loom, four harnesses and four cams are necessary, two cams being warp effect and two cams filling effect. The top beam containing terry warp is drawn in on first and third harnesses and the bottom or ground warp on second and fourth harness, reeded two ends per split and placed in the loom, the first and third harnesses being strapped up to the first roller, the second and fourth harnesses being strapped up to the second roller. The harnesses are tlien connected with the treadles at the bottom of loom by means of jack straps, these treadles being in turn operated by the cams, which are set on a cam shaft. The cams for this weave are those of a ^-y ^— 45 degrees twill, and are so arranged on the cam shaft as to produce the terry effect. The warps are drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, weaving one terry, cne ground end. The cams are arranged as follows: 2 One Warp effect cam. 1 1 One Fining effect cam. One Wa.rp effect cam. 1 1 One Fining effect cam. 2 WEAVE. First pick, first, fourth harness up, 2, 3, harness down. Second pick, first, second harness up; 3, 4, harness down. Third pick, first, second, harness down; 3, 4 harness up. The terry motion is arranged thus: At the bottom of the loom, near the side, there is a treadle, suspended in much the same manner as the cam treadles. To the treadle there is an iron (Vg inch) rod attached and run- ning up the inside of the loom and connected with an iron lever, which works upon a fulcrum, bolted to the loom side, the loom driving shaft rests in box or bearing on the side of the loom. This box is so shaped that it allows the shaft an eccentric motion, when the terry treadle is forced down by a cam, placed on the lower loom shaft for the purpose. When the terry cam, revolving on the lower loom shaft, strikes the ter- ry treadle, the rod connected thereto pulls down on the lever connected with the box in which is resting the driving shaft, the whole action throws the loom shaft and loom sley forward out of line, and the top warp working slack the reed draws the yarn through; then the terry treadle regaining its original position, the loom shaft settles back Design. 12 3 1 DDkU ■ ■DD ■ DDI DDDG DDDD nnan DDDD nnnn DDDB dSdg r5rawing-in Draft. ■DDD DODQ naaa DDaa ■■oa Reed Plan. 1st Terry. 2d Ground. 33 Terry. 4th Ground. to its correct position and the next pick of the loom binds in the slack warp, thus forming the loop in the cloth — the terry motion in this case working for two picks and stopping for one. In weaving tov>reling on a roller loom, it being of short lengths of terry, the weaver allows the cloth to weave terry for any desired length, and to weave solid cloth without the loop. He throws the terry motion out of gear by drop- ping an iron finger down on the trea- dle. This holds the terry treadle out of the way of the revolving terry cam. This iron finger is usually either raised or lowered by means of a cord, fasten- ed to the inner side of the breast beam and near the end of the loom. This finger can be worked automati- cally by the use of a dobby motion or jacquard machine. The terry warp, by weaving slack and forming the loops, will weave out at the rate of about 100 per cent faster than the ground warp. It is then re- placed by twisting another warp to it. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 31 this operation taking place at the loom and without removing the harnesses. A good grade of terry cloth can be made as follows: Reed — 900, two ends per dent, 27 inches in reed; 2-30s cotton ground -warp; 2-30s cotton terry warp; l-30s cotton filling; 3G picks. Width from loom, 25 inches. To be drawn and woven as stated above for a roller loom. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Yarn to make terry cloth or Turkish toweling belongs to the second divi- sion of mills i. e., the mills mak- ing cloth from low and middling grades of cotton (raw stock). The yarn is generally made from cot- ton of about 1-inch staple. The mix- ings should be as large as possible and good waste is generally thrown into the mixing bin at such times as it is usual to collect it from the different machines. It is usual in all mills to gather this good waste, which is really no more than the tail ends of laps, from the pickers, sliver which has not been properly coiled in the cans at the cards, combers and drawing frames, also any waste that contains the prop- er length of staple, which has been made at the different processes, which from improper care or handling or some defect in machinery cannot be used at the succeeding machine. This waste is generally placed in cans and collected at regular intervals and car- ried to the picker room and thrown back into the mixing bins to be used over again and is considered as raw stock. Of course it is understood that the different kinds or grades of cotton are kept separate. This method in- cludes all machines up to the slubber and the procedure is the same as de- scribed in a previous article. OPENING AND PICKING. The cotton is passed through an opener and two processes of picking, the weight of lap being about 40 lbs. at the breaker and 39 lbs at the finish- er, the speed of the beater being 1,500 revolutions per minute. This is a little faster speed than is used for higher class of yarns, because there is apt to be more dirt and foreign matter in the lower grades of cotton and the more beats per inch you have the more it tends to clean your cotton. There is a limit, however, to the speed at which to run the beater, be- cause, if run at too great a speed, it will tend to put nips into the cotton which are impossible to comb or card out unless you take out the whole bunch of fibres contained in the nip, which is a needless waste of good cot- ton when a little care at the beginning would have saved the nip. Nips make bunches in the yarn and show up clear- ly in the finished cloth, and, while it is impossible to make yarn without nips, it is always the object of all good card- ers to make as few as possible. CARD SETTINGS. The settings at the cards should be as follows: Flats from cylinder 10-lOOOths. to 12-lOOOths inch; doffer to cylinder 7-lOOOths inch: licker-in from cylinder 10-lOOOths; feed plate to licker-in 12- lOOOths to 20-lOOOths inch.according to what style of nose you are using; lick- er-in knives to licker-in about 12-lOOOths inch; back and front knife plates 12 to 17-lOOOths inch, from cylinder wire at the lower edge, although the setting distance of the front knife plate varies because this helps to regulate the amount of flat-top waste taken from the cotton on the cylinder; cylinder screen from cylinder wire 20-1000ths to 24-lOOOths inch at its nearest point to wire, which is the centre or directly underneath the centre shaft of cylin- der. The outer edges of the screen are generally set about i/i of an inch away from the wire. The sliver should weigh about 65 grains to the yard at the front of the card, the production being about SOO pounds per week of 60 hours. THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. The work is then put through three processes of drawing, the revolutions per minute of front roll being 400, the production per week 1,650 lbs. per deliv- ery, the sliver weighing about 70 grains per yarn. The settings forfinisher draw- ing frame are as foUows: front roll to second, 1% inches; second roll to third roll 1% inches; third roll to back roll 1% inches. The slubber hank should be about .40 hank; first intermediate 1.50 hank; second intermediate five hank. The spinning frame makes the required l-20s yarns from five hank roving. Some overseers use one less process of drawing and add one process of fly frames, in which case the hank roving at the different processes of fly- frames would be as follows: slubber .40; first intermediate 1.10; second in- termediate 2.70; fine frame, five hank. To make the yarn 2-20s, it is doubled at the twister, two ends of 20s yarn being fed and being twisted into one thread of yarn at the front, but being called 2-20s yarn. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Bleaching and Finishing of Turkish Toweling. If bleached in the ordinary way run- ning through machine rollers in a bleaohing works, the pieces will be drawn and sometimes damaged. Each piece is laid separately in a kier until the full amount of cloth has been placed therein, a solution of caustic potash at 5 degrees Tw. is run in, and boiled for 10 hours. Wash well and boil again with a 4 degrees Tw. of caustic potash. Wash well, and give a solution of sulphuric acid Mi degree Tw. Wash well and cliemic with % degree Tw. chloride lime, for about four hours. Give an acid bath of % degree Tw. sulphuric aoid. Wash well till all trace of acid has been eliminated. The goods should be dried on a tenter frame. A light starching, to give more weight, can be given of 4-6 oz. corn- starch per gallon, starch to be boiled for one" hour. Run through a rubber rolled mangle and dry on a tenter frame. If a half bleach is required, a boil of caustic potash and an acid bath are all that are required. CRINKLE OR SEERSUCKER. This weave can be produced on less harnesses, but this number allow more freedom for heddles. nannnnDonnnonnanDDDanBnBDBGBnB aiLaannajDajnDD^.aanaDHDHDHDHnBa D uanDJHjaGBDnjBDDDBunanDaanDn DaBnn^nnaDBDnDBnnDBDDDQnaDGDDD DEaanBaaaaan jaaanaG DDDnnonDnD ■aGaa_aaHzinGH3nDBQnaaanaaDaDaa Drawins-ia Dralt. □DBBnnBBnnBsnnnBDnBBGnBBnnBBGn BHaaaBDDaBajaaGaaflaaBBaaBBaaBB Recti Plan. nanBGHGB aJBDBDMG UBGMGMGa BGBGBJfla DBGBGBJfl BGBGanaJ DMuBGn^B aaSGOGBG ^lain Weave tor Crinkle. Crinkle or seersucker is a wash fab- ric composed of cotton, cotton and silk or all silk, and can be easily woven in any power loom adapted to light and medium weight cotton goods, such as the old style roller loom, or the more modern dobby or jacquard. To make this fabric TWO BEAMS ARE NECESSARY as the crinkle or shrunken stripe is its peculiarity, hence the name. The part of the warp (which forms the crinkle in the cloth) is dressed on a separate beam and has only sufficient weight placed upon it to allow it (crinkle warp) to form a shed properly during weaving. The ground or body of the cloth may be dressed upon one or more beams according to the difference in takeup, created by using combination weaves to form fancy corded or ribbed stripes in the body of the cloth. To make a perfect crinkle fabric, use only THE PLAIN WEAVE, on both the ground and crinkle warps; as, for instance, if we desired to make a cloth having a plain stripe for 20 threads and a crinkle stripe for 10 threads, draw the plain or ground threads on four harnesses, straight draft, 1, 2, 3, 4 and the crinkle threads on two harnesses 1, 2 and reed the whole warp two ends per dent straight across from selvage to selvage. The crinkle effect is produced by al- lowing this part of the warp to weave in slack, while the ground warp has the regular weight or tension placed upon it. In this way the slack warp very naturally forms a puckered or shrunken stripe in the fabric. This fabric was in great demand some 3'^ears ago, in fact about 1884, and was used extensively for ladies' wear in the line of summer oujing dresses, petticoats, etc., but like most novelty fabrics it survived for a few seasons and was cast aside, being out of date, and something newer taking its place in tne popular fancy. A very good grade of crinkle cloth can be produced from the following: STRIPE EFFECT (WARP PAT- TERN). Reed, 1150 — 30 inches width in reed; 1-COs cotton warp and filling. (Regular yarns), 56 picks filling. To bring out the puckered effect more prominently, draw crinkle warp two ends per heddle, four ends per dent. This necessarily increases the weight of the goods, also creating an opening for the working up of old stock yarns. Of course each manufacturer usually follows his own ideas of economy iu constructing a fabric, consistent wita the conditions and suggestions sub- mitted to him by the trade through his selling agents concerning the nature and style of a sample fabric to be pro- duced. Following is the FINISH for goods constructed as per stripe ef- fect: Goods are run through the washer, then through the cylinders or dryer, from the dryer to the tentering A OOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, 33 machine. This operation stretches the goods to the original loom width if de- sired, also acting as an auxiliary dry- er, after which they are rim through the calender, which machine gives the cloth the appearance of having been newly ironed. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills making the style of cloth described above belong to the second division of mills given in a previous paper, i. e., those using low and medi- um staple and grade of cotton. These mills of course use the average settings on all machines with proper relation to the length of staple, etc. Of course, crinkle or seersucker is made of differ- ent counts of yarn in different mills, but these do not vary enough so that any change is made, except in the spin- ning room, which will be mentioned later. The seersucker under descrip- tion will be considered to be made of l-SOs cotton yarn. The raw stock used for this yarn should be about 1 to 1%- inch staple. IN THE MIXINGS use other good waste, such as described in the last paper,also cut roving waste. As in previous mixings, make them as large as possible, and when possible put them through a bale breaker, and it would be a good idea to let the cot- ton stand as long as possible before us- ing it (after mixing, of course). This allows it to expand and dry out and it is then in a better form for use. Differ- ent mills use different processes for the purpose of dyeing the cotton out and making the cotton mixing AS FLUB'FY AS POSSIBLE. It is the general custom in up-to-date mills to use a blower in connection with the bale breaker. The cotton is fed into the bale breaker and junks are torn apart by the spikes on the rolls of the bale breaker and then the cotton is delivered on to an endless apron, which carries it over a chute into which the cotton drops. This chute allows tlie cotton to slide into a fan or blower, which revolves at a high rate of speed and the draft carries the cotton through, trunking either direct- ly to the bin in which it belongs or drops it on to an endless lattice, which may be shifted to allow the cotton to drop into the bin where it belongs. It must be understood that cotton or raw stock is COMPRESSED \^RY TIGHTLY into bales, and if some means were not taken to help the cotton regain its nat- ural fluffy state the machines would have to do a great deal of heavy work for which they are not wholly built. Thus the bale breaker tends to separate the matted masses as they are taken from the bale and the air from the blower helps to air, dry and restore the cotton to a fluffy state, which is so de- sirable to obtain among carders. The cotton is allowed to stand as long as possible so that it will expand and dry out as much as possible before using.as the cotton in the bale collects more or less moisture from being in the cotton storehouses in general use. The cotton used for 30s yarn is gen- erally passed through TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING, if a blower is used. A good weight per yard of lap is 16 ounces and total weight of lap is 40 pounds at the break- er and 141/4 ounces per yard and 39 pounds per lap at the finisher. The speed of the beater is the same as has been given for mills of the second divi- sion. At the card the draft should be about 100 to 110, which will give the weight of the sliver about 65 grains. The doffer should be speeded so as to give about 800 pounds production. The sliver is then generally run through three processes of drawing frames, a good draft of which is as follows: breaker^ 5 plus; intermediate 4 — ; fin- isher 6; which will give the following weight of sliver per yard; at the break- er 74 grains; intermediate, 79 grains; and finisher ,75 grains. Be careful of the settings of the rolls at the drawing. The hank roving at the slubber should be .45; at the first intermediate fly frame 1.40; at the second intermediate, or, as it is sometimes called, the rov- ing frame, 3.5 hank and jack or fine frames, 7 to 7.5 hank. The roving is then carried to the spinning room where it is spun into 30s yarn. If yarn of a little higher or lower count is de- sired the draft gear is generally changed at this frame to give the re- quired count. Dyeing Particulars. LIGHT BLUE. For 100 pounds yarn, 1^^ per cent immedial indone B pat.; IVz per cent immedial sky blue cone; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 10 per cent crys- talline Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well with water. DARK BLUE. For 100 pounds yarn: S per cent im- medial indone blue Pat; 10 per cent so- dium sulphide; 15 per- cent crystalline Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; en- 34 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ter at boil, boil one hour; wash well with water. BLACK. For TOO pounds yarn, 20 per cent im- medial indone blue Pat; 10 per cent so- dium sulphide; 15 per cent crystalline Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well with water; second bath, one-half above proportions, OLIVE GREEN. 12 per cent pyrogene olive N; 6 per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; en- ter at boil; boil one hour, wash well with water. BROWN. 12 per cent pyrogene brown G: 8 per ceht sodium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well with water. FINISHING PROCESS. Starch with six ounces cornstarch; six ounces cocoanut oil white soften- ing; one gallon water; boil starch for 45 minutes; rinse through starch mangle; dry on tenter frame. to produce a cheap single-cloth trou- sering composed of a rather coarse but fairly strong single warp thread and a thick or lofty single filling thread, which combination in certain proportions gives the fabric a weighty appearance. THE FILLING is usually an all-cotton shoddy filling, made from old dark colored cotton rags. By willowing and pickering, the yarn is brought to the carded state. The fibres in an all-cotton shoddy are short, due to the process of reduction as stated above. From the pickers the shoddy is run through the first and second break- ers and then through the condenser or finisher card. The spool drum con- taining the roving is then taken from the condenser card and placed upon COTTONADE. aDBBDDBBaDBa DaaUDHDaDGB ■■DDBBDDBaDD BDDBBDGBaBaa DaBBDDBBaDBB DBBDDBBDBODB BBDDBBDDBBDD BaaBannaaBBD Design Dnnannnannaa DnaDDDaDDaaa uanDDBDi anna "lanDaDDDnana ■ " 1 Drutt Gaaaaaaa L.aanaaaa aaauaaoa aaaaaaDa aaaanaaa Daaaaaaa aaoDaaDD aDDaaoL-B Peaiga n~aanDDB nnanDDBD nBDnr^ana BTDanDD "Drawing-ia Draft Cottcnade is a heavy, coarse, single cloth, made of single yarn, gen- erally l-20s cotton warp and 16-cut wool spun, weaving woolen prin- ciple, all-cotton shoddy filling. It is used as a trousering, an important feature of which is the low selling price of the finished garment. It is best adapted to the old-style roller or cam loom, and is made and woven on fourharnesses, genqrallythe ^— ^ twill, either right or left hand, or herring-bone weave effect (twill running at angle of 45 degrees). It is a narrow fabric, being set in the reed 30 inches, andreceivingvery little finish and is sold at 27 inches in width. THE PATTERNS are usually on the dark side with a small percentage of bright color added to Improve the tone: Black, dark slate and dark drab for ground colors, and an occasional red, pearl, light brown or an equivalent color to bright- en the whole pattern. In making a cottonade the object is Herring-bone effect. Eight-hand tuil the mule to be spun upon tubes, ready for the weaver. The fibres being short, the shoddy will lose from 15 to 20 per cent of its weight during the carding ajid spin- ning, also from the 3 to 5 per cent of waste made by the weaver. To find stock at picker: Cottonade, 30 inches in reed; 32 picks; 16-cut cotton (woolen princi- ple) shoddy; 32 times 30 equals 960 yards divided by 300 equals 3.2 ounces filling, plus 5 per cent loss equals 3.- 18 ounces; 16-cut times 300 equals 4,800 divided by 16 ounces equals 300 yards per ounce; 3.18 ounces at loom plus 20 per cent loss in carding, spin- ning equals 3.82 ounces at picker per yard of cloth. Cottonade, reed 800-2 ends per split, 30 inches wide, 32 picks, 16-cut cotton (woolen principle) shoddy, l-20s cot- ton warp. Finish about 27 inches. To finish. run Ihrough dry hot press. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 3S Weigh 414 ounces about. Warp pattern: 10 Black. 2 Dark slate. 1 Red. 1 Black. 2 Dark drab. 1 Black. 1 Red. 2 Dark slate. Design — regular ^-— 45 degree right hand twill. THE WEAVING. To weave in roller loom, this warp is drawn in 1, 2, 3, 4, on four harnesses, and these harnesses suspended in the loom from the rollers by means of straps attached to hooks on the top af the harness or heddle shafts. The harnesses are then fastened to the loom treadles by means of jackstraps running from the bottom of the har- ness to said treadles, the treadles be- ing operated by a series of cams, con- sistent wicn weave effect desired. These cams are so arranged on the cam shaft that in revolving they strike the treadles, and this action, pulling the harness up and down, opens the shed. (Note — in a roller loom two or more harnesses are always attached to one top roller, and of nec- essity whatever pulls one down must pull the mate harness up, the cams alway.5 being arranged to permit this.) In applying this weave the first and third harnesses are strapped to the first top roller and the second and fourth strapped to second top roller. This being the case, the action of the cams in opening the shed causes the raisers and sinkers on each succes- sive warp thread in the repeat of the weave to start one pick later than that of the thread preceding it, there- by forming a twill line. A warp to be woven - — twill, drawn on four harnesses 1, 2, 3, 4, and, strapped up in this manner, and hav- ing the cams set properly should shed thus: First pick, first and fourth up; second and third down. Second pick, first and second up; third and fourth down. Third pick, second and third up; first and fourth down. Fourth pick, third and fourth up; first and second down. The herring-bone weave effect is produced by drawing in the warp from front to back and back to front in the harness and using the same set of cams, set in the same manner and po- sition, and the same harness strapping as in making a straight right hard twill. Carding and Spinning Particulars. For this class of goods the cottom yarn is generally made and spun in the same way as wool and - worsted yarns, and is generally made in mills- and on the machinery generally used for making worsted or woolen yarns. It will be understood that the meth- ods of making yarn in a cotton mill and a woolen mill are entirely differ- ent, both as to the number of proc- esses used and as to the machinery used. In fact, the fundamental prin- ciples for spinning yarn are entirely different in each mill, and as we are describing cotton fabrics in these ar- ticles we will proceed just as if the- yarn used for this class of goods was. made at a cotton mill and sold to a woolen mill, which is sometimes done. THE RAW STOCK. The raw stock used for this class of fabric would be of a low grade and generally mixed with comber or even- card waste; the percentage of waste- used would depend a great deal on the- count of yarn to be made. In the fab- ric under description the count of the- cotton yarn is l-20s. The raw cotton would be opened up and run through a bale breaker, or it may be opened at the bin and not run through the bale breaker which will save the expense of one process, but the cotton will not be opened up as well and a more even yarn yarn will be made when bale breaker is used> As the cotton is opened at the bin it is mixed with the carded or combed waste in the proportion required; the cotton layers being taken from the bale and pulled apart as much as possible so as to let ' the air get at them and also so as to lighten the work of the opener. The cotton is taken and put into the opener which is generally attached to the breaker picker, either directly or indirectly by having the cotton carried through trualdng (through which it is blowH' by a draft of air from a fan on the opener) which connects with the back part of the breaker picker. The open- er machine may be on the same floor or may be situated on the floor above or below the breaker picker; but in mills, as they are now constructed, the opener is on the same floor and is con- sidered as a part of the breaker pick- er. PARTICULARS TO BE OBTAINED. For this count of yarn the speed of the beater should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute. The hopper 36 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. on the opener should always be kept more than half full of cotton and it should be as large as possible, the reason for this being tliat a more even amount of cotton will always be pre- sented to the pin beater by the lift- ing apron than when the hopper is less than half full. This is important, not only in reference to "cottonade fabrics," but also all classes of goods, because if it is less than half full it is apt to cause uneven yarn. The speed of the beater on the breaker and finisher pickers should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute, which gives the beats per inch about 42. The weight of the lap at the breaker picker should not be less than 40 pounds and at the finisher less than 59 pounds. A 39-pound lap gives a weight of lap per yard of liVz ounces. The card is set so as not to take out too much waste, and wider settings are used than those given in a previous article. The draft used should be 100, the sliver at the front weighing 65 grains. Production at the card should be at least 900 pounds. The sliver is then run through two proc- esses of drawing, the weight of sliver at the finisher being about 72 grains per yard. The production per delivery of the finisher drawing frame should be at least 1,600 pounds per week of 60 hours and the percentage of lost time at this machine not more than 15 per cent. The slubber is the next process and the hank roving made at this machine should be about .40. Three-process fiy frames are used and the hank roving at the different proc- esses should be as follows: 1st inter- mediate 1.10 hank; 2d intermediate 2.75 hank; five-frame from 4.50 to 5.00 hank. Care should be taken that the rolls are not spread too far apart on these machines and a good setting for rolls of this stock for slubbers and fly frames is as follows: Front roll to middle spread to I14, inches; middle roll to back roll 2 inches. The yarn is then taken to the spinning room where it is spun into 20s yarn, a soft twist being used. Dyeing Particulars for Raw Stock. BLACK. For 100 pounds: 18 per cent pyro- gene black B. D.; 12 per cent sodium sulphide; 8 per cent soda ash; 70 per cent salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash well in water. PEARL. One per cent pyrogene gray B; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour. LIGHT BROWN. Five per cent pyrogene brown G; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 5 per cent salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour, wash well. RED. Five per cent rosanthrene red A; 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda. Enter at boil, boil one hour, rinse, diazotize for one-quarter hour with nitrite soda and muriatic acid, rinse. Develop with beta naphthol and caustic soda for one-quarter hour. This red is brighter and faster than primuline red. DIAZOTIZING BATH. One and one-half per cent nitric soda, per cent muriatic acid, 20 de- grees be. DEVELOPING BATH. One and three-quarters per cent beta naphthol; 3 per cent soda ash. DARK SLATE. Two and one-half per cent imme- dial direct blue, B pat.; % per cent immedial olive, B pat.; 5 per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour. DARK DRAB. One and one-half per cent immedial brown, pat.; % per cent immedial olive, B pat.; % per cent immedial black, N B pat.; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 5 per cent sulphide soda. Enter at boil, boil one hour. COTTON WORSTED— MEN'S WEAR, Cotton worsted men's wear is a fab- ric composed of either 2-20s or 2-30s cotton warp and filling, and receives either a dry or wet finish. The weave, color arrangement and general con- struction are an exact auplicate of the finest worsted goods of the present time. This fabric is used in the manufac- ture of men's suitings and trouserings, retailing at $7 to $12 per suit, for the middle class trade, and in effect has the neat dressy appearance of an im- ported cloth of high grade. It is made in a light-weight grade A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 37 at 6 to 6% ounces for spring and fall, and heavy weight at 8 to S^^ ounces for winter wear, both grades being pro- duced in stripe.check, and indistinct plaid patterns. naDDutii,_n CDoiDDUDQ DDUUQDDiS ■DDGDajGDU □aaaanoG QaaaaaEfca BGDHBGGB ■■GQBBDG GBsaDBBG aGBBaDBB anDBBDnB aaGGSBGG GBBGGBBG □GBBGGBB cfflDGDana naGGBBGO QaDGHGQa BGGBBGGB UDGGGGaffl GQBBGGBB GGDanaDG BBuQBBDG afflGQaGOG aaaGGBBG GGGGGGain GGBBGGBB aaGGQGGn BBGDBBGG afflaaaGQG BBOGBBGD GGaaDGHG GDBBGGBB . 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Most all weave effects and combinations of weaves known in the worsted men's wear trade can be ap- plied to this fabric. Care should be taken, however, in construction of weave, as the weave, when used in a worsted to produce a tightly bound rib effect, may appear more open in cotton worsted men's wear as the worsted fabric shrinks when scoured in finish and the cotton fabric is finished dry and is practically the same as when taken from loom, of course allowing for percentage of contraction between reed and cloth roll. Cotton worsted men's wear is usually made one face end and one back end, and reeded four ends per dent. THE FACE WEAVE when a twill, or fancy combination, is balanced on the back of the cloth by using an eight harness satin (warp effect on back) five as counter. The face weave should always be properly balanced. In making this style of goods, or a warp back fabric, the extra is placed there for the purpose of adding weight to the cloth, and if of a tighter nature, the face of the cloth will present a puckered or uneven appearance. To dry finish cotton worsted men's wear, the yarns of which have been dyed from dry or cheap colors, that will not stand washing, the goods are taken from the loom and inspected, measured and sheared. Shearing is a process which means running the cloth through a ma- chine, having a cutter composed of a series of blades set in a frame, which reA^olves in similar manner to that of a grass mower, the cloth being kept taut by being passed over and under several rods and rollers, which also re- m.ove wrinkles, and allow the cloth to be presented evenly to the cutter. The purpose of shearing is to remove all foreign substances from the face of the cloth, such as knots, lumps, etc., and the effect is a smooth, even cloth that readily takes on the appearance of a high-class worsted, after being run through the hot press. The steam gauge on a hot press should register 50 pounds and the dial 135 pounds roller pressure when the cloth is run through this press. The effect of the pressure of the steam- heated rollers upon the cloth is to re- move all wrinkles, liven up the colors, and to retain the width of cloth as taken from the cloth roll at the loom. After being pressed, the cuts of cloth are rolled or sapped into bolts, the 38 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. li ends of which are then stitched, the tags sewed on and the goods are ready- to case and ship. THE COLORS used in cotton worsted men's wear are black, brown, light and dark shades of blue, slate, drab and steel, and to liv- en up a pattern use an occasional end of maroon, green, pearl or sky blue. This line is also made in a piece-dye fabric, constructed from 2-20 and 2-30 cotton warps, and l-30s worsted and 1-20 cotton filling. These yarns are woven in the gray and the cloth scoured and dyed in the piece, black or blue. When finished, this fabric re- sembles a very heavy serge. Finish, 28 inches. ounces; 31i/^ inches in reed, including selvage 32x2; 2-20 cotton warp one face, one back: 52 picks, 2-26s black cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear and hot press. Weave, can use same as light wei2;hts. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Cotton worsted fabrics, like cotton- ade fabrics, are generally made and spun in the same manner as wool and worsted yarns and made in woolen mills. There are a few exceptions, how- ever, where they are made in cotton mills. The count of the yarn used In cotton worsted fabrics varies from 208 to 36s, and is generally a doubled yarn. In the present article we will proceed DnuTMUBanonDSfsaa anannaaaB^vBaaaca BJDDDDBQaanaDDSHa nannatBHDDDanBDaG DDHDHDOaiDaaBiaQa BfflBCDDDDMDHOaDDn ■Daaa::«_BDz:DDaHa Dcsisn— Piece Dye rnannnBHaDDncDrPa DBBDDBiuaDfflDnnDnn BBnDBHDD J fODBanDa BDDHBaaHDDGnnDna naBBaaBBDnssnaaaa DBBCDHaDDDDDDaan BBDDHHQD'-H" DZCDDa BanaiiD3ajG_.c:j3aa We ;Uai i Clia^ DnDnDD^IDDDDDDDOIB DDDDnaOuDl- DDDMOa nnaDDnnaDDDBDDon DnnDDDDnDiaiDDDnDa DDDDDDaBDDDQDDna DDannBajDDDDDaaa DDDBDaDDDDaODDDa r;BaDDDDDnnDDnt.ca DDDnnanDDnaDDDBn DDDaDDCDDDDDBDpg DDnaDnnnnnBDDang CDaDaaDDBDDDODDD D aDanaBDDDDDDgDg DanDBaDanDDDDDnp DDBH' :nDDaonoDp;^D BDDDZGI^CDCaLJDDaa Drawing-:a Draft nanaao»nnc]nn'iaBaGDDCHZiBa DnnnnBDDanDBffiBnnDDCKran djhjk JDnajB-jaGonoaBSiB ■ inDaBDDnBSBnDnnDBDBDaDD' bgb BnBDDDaQH'aHnUDDDBDBaDCDUB^l-BDDlO^HnBLnDDnBEBBDDCDn HaaDoaBaB .uunaBSBDaDCDB- BoaGnaDDDjHaBDnannBnBacn DDnnaaKnanDnBnBDaDDDBaBaajcDBii-isBDonnnBDHnGDDDBEEHa DaHaHaaGGG«'SHaa rijaaBaaGGGBaiiGGBuBGajaDBSHaaaDLBG BEHaaQGCBaBGnn, GB-'?BGGaGGaQBQPGa~Hl!liB^DnGaKDBaDGaG nDDaanBfijBnQGaGBaBGaaGGaSHGGGBGGGQQBGBGGDOGBt^EGGa Design— Light Weight— Stripe. GGaGnanaaGGaaaGBGGG .ggggg^gg: c □ - LCGCGGaaaaGGGGan GGGGGGGGGaGaQBGaGaaaGGGGGaaG G _,GGGQGGllGQGGaQGCGG GGGGQGGGDaGBGGGGGQUGaaGGGGGfflGaGLjQGDaGGGBGaGGGGGG GO iGGaGaGBGGGGaaGGGGGGGGGMGQGGQGDGGGGGGaGBGGGGDG OaQGGaanGGGGGClGOGGGGGGaBaGGGGGGGaGaGGaGGQGGBGGaG aGGGDBGGGGGGaaaGGGGaaBGGaQGGGBGGGGGaGDGGGQGGQBGa GGGBGaGaGGGGaanGGGGaaGOGGGG .GaCBGaaGGGGGaGGGGGGM aBaGGaGGGaGaaaGaGBaGGGGGGaDaGGaGGBDGGGaaaGQaGDLG aGOGGGGaOaGGaGBaGnQGGGGGGGGGDGGaGaGaBGnQGGaCGaGG GGGGaGGGGGGaBnaDaGGGaGaaGGDGGGGaGCCaGQBaGi GGGL GD GDGGGGGaGGBGGaaaGGa'^GGGGaGBGGaG! . GaaGGGDGHGGaaDGG DGaGGGaGBGGGGiaQGGGGGGGGBaGGGGGGGGGGaQGGGCBaGGaa aGDGGGBGGGGGQaGGGaaGGGBGGGQGBGGGCQauaaGGaGGGBaGG aGGnHiaaaGaaGanGaGGGBQQaaQGDGnBGGQGGGGGGGGGaGGBG DGaGGGcnaGGGGaanGaBaGaaGGGnGGGnGBaGGGaaaGGDaGGGa BGaGaGGGGGDGDDaaBGGaaaGGDaGGGDDGGGBGDGDDDGGGnGGD Drawing-in Draft. GGGGBBBBGDDGBBBBanGGBBBflaGGGflBBBGGnGBBaBnGGGBBflfl BBBBGGaGBBBBGaaaBBBBGGGGBBBBGGGGBaBflaOGGBBaBGDGD Reed Plan. DGBBGaHBaGGGGGaa GMBLjOBaGD^GGDaDG BBaDBBGaaaGGaGGD BaaBBDLBDaaGDGGffl DGBBaDBBDaffiGaaQa GBaGGBBaGGGDaaQG BHaGBnGGEr-DGGGGGG Ba_iHBGGHGGaaQaaa Piece dye — worsted men's wear; reed, 500 — eight ends per dent; 33 inches in reed, including selvage, 32x2. 1 end face 2-30 cotton warp; 1 end back 2-20 cotton warp, '- — - twill face, 8 harness satin back. 5 as counter. 1 pick l-30s worsted; 1 pick 1-20 cot- ton; 56 picks per inch. LIGHT-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. Reed, 900 — ^four ends per dent, 6V2 ounces; 31i/^ inches in reed, including selvage 32x2; 2-30s cotton warp, one face and one back; 52 picks 2-30s black cotton filling. Dry finish equals shear and hot press. Weave twill combina- tions for face; weave eight-harness satin for back. HEAVY-WEIGHT MEN'S WEAR. Reed, 800 — ^four ends per dent, 8i^ Weave Harness Chain. as if the count of the finished yarn was to be 2-30S. A mill making this class of goods would belong to the second division of mills (as classified in a previous arti- cle) i.e., a mill equipped with machin- ery for making yarns from low to me- dium grades of cotton. THE MIXINGS would be made in the usual manner, being run through a bale breaker into the mixing bin and at this point mixed with the sliver waste returned from the cards, drawing frames and combers (if there are any of these machines in the mill) and then it is run through an opener and through three processes of pickers. At the finisher picker laps of cut roving waste are mixed with raw stock in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut-roving A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 39 waste. In using cut-roving waste and also sliver waste it should always be of the same length of staple. It is THE] GENERAL PLAN to use cut-roving waste as fast as it is made and not allow it to collect until a large quantity is on hand. The method employed in most mills is to collect the cut-roving over a day (generally right after the noon hour) and take it to the picker room and run it through the roving or waste picker. From here it is run into a breaker picker and formed into laps of suitable weight. These are then mixed with the raw stock in the proportion above stated, as long as the cut-roving laps hold out (which should be as short a time as possible for obvious reasons). By doing this A MORE EVEN YARN is obtained than when the cut roving is allowed to collect for a week at a time before being put through the waste picker, because by the first plan you are mixing a small quantity of cut rov- ing a good part of the time, whereas by the latter plan cut roving is only mixed with the raw stock once a week, while during the other five days nothing but the raw stock and sliver waste is being mixed. By the latter plan a more un- even yarn is bound to be made. The SPEED OF THE BEATERS on the different machines should not exceed 1,050 revolutions per minute at the opener, 1,500 revolutions per min- ute at the breaker picker, and on the intermediate and finisher pickers the speed should be slowed down so as not to exceed 1,450 revolutions per minute. This will give 42 beats to every inch of cotton fed to the finisher picker, which ought to be enough to thorough- ly clean it. In giving the above speeds it is assumed that the rigid two-bladed type of beater is used. Different kinds of beaters, together with their advan- tages and disadvantages, will be given later when higher count yarns are de- scribed. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the breaker picker should be about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard; at the intermediate about 37 pounds or 12 ounces per yard; at the finisher 39 pounds or liy2 ounces per yard. The settings at the card should be the same as described in last week's article per weight of sliver being 60 grains per yard and the production 850 pounds per week of 60 hours. The work is run through three processes of drawing, revolutions per minute of front roll at each process being 400 and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing 7& grains per yard. In order to help pro- duce a perfect yarn, it is always a good rule never to draw more than you double at the drawing frame. For ex- ample, if you are feeding six ends at the drawing your draft should be six or under. The PRODUCTION OF THE SLIVER at the drawing frame should be about 1,600 pounds per delivery for a week of 60 hours. The next machine iis the slubber, the hank roving at the front being about .40. The yarn is run through three proc- esses of fiy frames and the hank rov- ing made at each should be as follows: First intermediate, 1.20; second inter- mediate, 3.00; fine frame, 7.25 to 7.50. The yarn is then taken to the spinning room and made into 30s yarn; from here it is taken to the twister and made into 2-30s by doubling two yarns of single 30s yams together. Dyeing Particulars. BLACK FOR YARN. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 12 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. DARK BROWN. 8 per cent immedial dark brown A; 1 per cent immedial yellow D; % per cent immedial black N B ; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. DARK BLUB. 3 per cent immedial indone B cone; 3 per cent immedial indone R cone; 3 per cent immedial direct blue B; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; Avash well. PEARL. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- dial black N R T ; 8 ounces sodium sul- phide; one pound soda ash; 5 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. DRAB. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 ounces imme- dial black N B; 12 ounces immedial cutch G; one pound sodium sulphide; 5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. SLATE. For 100 pounds yarn: 2 pounds imme- dial direct blue B; three-quarters of a pound imedial olive B; 5 pounds sodi- um sulphide; 10 pounds Glauber's salt; 40 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2 pounds soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour. STEEL, For 100 pounds yarn: 12 ounces imme- dial black N B ; 2 ounces immedial yel- low D; 2 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 5 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. GREEN. 5 per cent pyrogene yellow M; .5 per cent pyrogene green B; 10 per cent so- dium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well. MAROON. 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 6 per cent Rosanthren C B ; 5 per cent soda ash; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash. Diazotize: 1% pounds nitrate soda; four pounds hydrochloric acid; turn for 15 minutes; develop two pounds beta-naphthol; 2 pounds soda ash; turn for 15 minutes; wash well. SKY BLUE. 2 pounds immedial sky blue; two pounds sodium sulphide; 5 pounds so- da ash; 15 pounds Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour. FIGURED SILK (LENO) WAISTIN6. Figured waisting is a light-weight wash fabric, generally composed of 1-40 cotton warp and either single or two-ply silk or silkoline filling,] -60 silk and 2-60 mercerized or silkoline filling being in great favor for the past few years. This fabric can be woven on either the dobby or jacquard loom having single or double box motion. Very ELABORATE AND POPULAR STYLES are created by using fancy granite weaves (filling effect) for ground, and for figuring use the filling effect of dia- mond, spot, crossed or curved twill weaves. These are so regularly ar- ranged as to produce apparent jac- quard patterns. Persian stripes can be produced by using bright colored extra warp threads and arranging the weave so as to raise them on the face of the cloth in Oriental or fioral designs. Spots are sometimes woven into this fabric by using extra warp and clip- ping the long floats of yarn off the back of the cloth. Very elegant styles are made by in- troducing leno or doupe weaving by means of white and colored fancy yarns to produce open or lace work in the cloth. Figured waisting is made in both chambray and stripe pattern, always having white filling. For chambrays the following COLORS are serviceable: dark blue, light blue„ brown, pink, red, pearl, steel, light green, tan, ecru, etc. The combination of cotton warp and silk or silkoline filling creates a silky sheen on the face of the fabric as the light strikes it, and this in itself is its most important selling feature. IN WEAVING this fabric the take-up roller should be covered with fine sandpaper and this paper presents a more even surface to the cloth and does not draw the filling as is often the case where perforated tin is used as a covering on the take- up roller. The perforations usually cause small rough particles of tin to stick out prominently, and these catch on the long floats of the filling figure, and as the loom continues to run, the yarn clings to the roller and draws the filling, thereby spoiling the symmetry of the figure and causing imperfect cloth. The tin covering very often causes clouded or thick and thin places in the cloth. Especially is this so when us- ing a fine silk filling, and a great num- ber of picks per inch. To finish figured waisting the fabric is washed in a solution of soap and cold water, then dried by being run through the hot press. After the press of calender, the goods are folded on a folding machine (not lapped) in the same manner as sheeting, and after folding, each separate piece or cut is doubled in half and then wrapped in stiff paper, to keep out all dirt, after which it is ready to pack and ship. (SILK) FIGURED WAISTING. Reed, 1,300, 2 ends per dent; 38 inches in reed,t0' finish at 36 inches. 1,- 300 means 1,300 splits to 36 inches of reed. Warp l-40s cotton: filling l-60s silk filling, 64 picks. Take-up of warp during weaving, 15 per cent; 1,300 reed by 38 inches equals 1,372 splits; 2 ends to 1 split equals 2,744 ends plus 40 ends A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 41 for selvedge equals 2,784 total ends in warp. WARP PATTERN. 16 White. 1 2 Light blue. 1 , ., 6 White. r^ "™®°- 2 Light blue. J 16 White. 8 Cadet blue. 2 Sky blue. 2 Cadet blue 2 Sky blue. 12 Dark blue. 2 Sky blue. 2 Cadet blue 2 Skv blue. 8 Cadet blue. 134 ends in pattern = 67 splits. 19 repeats of weave and pattern plus 40 splits or 80 ends. FIGURED (LBNO) WAISTING. Reed, 1,400— ends per dent, 2; 34% inches in reed, including selvage; fin- ish, 28^/^. Scour and calender. WARP PATTERN. 88 Red 1-40 cot. 1 Black leno 2-20 mere. 4 White 2-40 cot. 2 White leno. 4 White. 2 White leno. 4 White. 2 White leno. 4 White. 1 Black leno. 112 ends = 68 splits. Weight one yard, 2,286 ounces. 1752 ends -f- 15% take up = 2061 yds. 1-40 cot = .981 ozs. 40 ends + 15% take up = 47 yds. 1-40 cot = .002 ozs. S04 ends + 15% take up = 358 yds. 2-40 cot = .034 ozs. 38 ends black + 25% take up = 50 yds. 2-20 mere = .009 ozs. 114 ends white -f 25% take up = 178 yds. 2-20 mere = .034 ozs. 56 picks X 34% in. = 1932 yds. 2-60 mere = 1.221 ozs. Total 2.286 ozs. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Only mills having up-to-date ma- chinery and also up-to-date ideas can hope to make figured silk leno. This class of goods requires a great deal firmer yarns than the other cloths that have been previously described, and these yarns are made in the third divi- sions of mills (as classified in a pre- vious article), i. e., mills making yarn from middle to high-grade cotton. The COUNTS OF YARNS, for this class of goods vary from 30s to 60s warp and from 40s to 80s (single or double) filling. The filling yarn is generally mercerized and a great many times extra silk ends are used to pro- duce a certain silk effect in the cloth. For the carding and spinning particu- lars we will consider the warp made up of l-40s cotton yarn and the filling of 2-60S yam. THE COTTON USED should be of a good grade and a great deal of Allan seed cotton is used. This is generally of 1% to li/4 inches staple and should be as clean as possible. In mixing this class of cotton, it is"- very important that all the bales mixed ' should be of the same length of staple, . and the overseer, or in large mills both the overseer of carding and the cot- ton sampler, sample the cotton from every bale, and if it is not up to the standard staple and grade, the bale is laid aside either to be taken back bj'' the cotton broker or used for making yarns, which can be made out of a shorter staple cotton. After this- the cotton is put through a bale break- er (if the mill has one which it should) or the cotton may be mixed by hand,, care being taken when this latter method is used that the layers of cotton taken from the bale are pulled apart as much as possible. The ones in charge of THE MIXING should watch the men while they are pulling the bales of cotton apart to see that they do not take too large layers^ from the bale and throw them into the mixing bin which they will do if possi- ble so as to get through with the job as- quickly as possible, for it is a dirty job' at the best. The bins should be made- as large as possible so as to accommo- date as large a mixing as possible at one time, as large mixings help to make more even yarn than small mix- ings. IN SOME MILLS it is the custom to use two bins for mixing the same kind of cotton. The mixing is done as above described. But one bin" is emptied at a time, while the cotton in the other bin is allowed to dry out while the cotton from the first bin is being used. Of course when one bin is empty it is immediately filled up- again and the cotton is allowed to dry out in it until the second bin is emptied of cotton. When cotton is put through a bale breaker or any machine v/hich opens the cotton up it is only necessary to use one bin and the cotton is or does not have to remain to air out, but may be used right away. The good waste from machines up to the slubber are used in the mixing, and cut-roviug is run in at the finished picker (it hav- ing first been run through the roving waste machine and made into laps at a breaker picker). The raw cotton is- taken from the bin and put througb an opener and TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. The speed of the opener beater should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute. 42 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the breaker and finished heater (t.wo- illded) about 1,400 to 1,450 revolutions per minute. It may seem strange that the speed of the beaters on the openei neps into the cotton, hut it is necessary to run the beater at a higher rate of speed for this class of cotton because it is very dirty. and pickers should be about the same 5is when low-grade cotton was used, be- <;ause the general rule followed is that the longer stapled cotton being used, the less the speed of the beater, because longer cotton being used a highly speeded beater is apt to and does put EXPERIMENTS should be made with the beater in or- der to get it to run just fast enough so that it will take out the dirt and for- eign matter in the cotton.and the above speeds are given only as a basis from which to work. The weight of laps at A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 43 the breaker picker should be about 16 ounces to yard of laps and at the fin- isher about 11 ounces to yard of lap, or for the finer counts 10 ounces per yard of lap may be used. The total Ireight of the lap is 35 pounds and at the finisher picker receiving about 42 beats of the beater for every inch feed. The method of finding THE BEATS PER MINUTE is to multiply the revolutions per min- ute of beater to one revolution per minute of feed rolls (this may be cal- culated through the gears on the pick- er in the usual manner). Muitiyi> rev- olutions per minute of beater by 2 (or 3 if a three-bladed beater is np°i). Divide this product by the circumfer- ence of the feed roll. For example, suppose that the beater made 197.5 rev- olutions per minute and was a 2-bladed beater; then 197.5 times 2 equals 395 divided by 3 (diameter of feed roll) times 3.14 plus equals 41.9 beats per inch. Ans. THE CARD. The next machine is the card, and at this machine we see changes. In the first the wire fillets on the cylinder and dofter are finer. A good size wire to use is 35s on the cylinder and 36 or 37 on doffer and top flats. All parts are set closer to each other with the ex- ception of the nose of the feed plate in relation to the licker-in. The feed plate should be set so that the licker- in will not take the fibres being deliv- ered before they are free from the bit of the feed roll and feed plate. The speed of the top flats is sometimes in- creased by lagging the top flats driving pulley. This is for the purpose of hav- ing more working flats on the cylin- der and which consequently results in taking out more waste. The SPEED OF THE DOFFER is a great deal less and thus the pro- duction is smaller, for it is quality first and quantity second with this class of goods. Of course the quantity must be looked to to see that the production is as large as possible.but it must not be at the expense of quality. Sometimes on the finer counts of yarn the speed of the licker-in is reduced, and it is found to be of a great benefit to the sHver delivered at the front, because it not only cleans the cotton more thor- oughlj^ but it also tends to. KEEP THE NEPS OUT and not to put them in. If carders have not tried this it might be a good plan to lag the licker-in pulley to 10 or 101'^ inches diameter, instead of nine inches as it now is when using long staple cotton, especially Sea Island cot- ton. The draft of the card should be about 125 to 140, the sliver at the front weighing about 45 grains to the yard and the production of the card being not over 500 pounds per week of 60 hours. Grind cards both often and light. The cotton for this class of goods is combed and BEFORE REACHING THE COMBER passes through the sliver lap and rib- 44 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. bon lap machines, generally 14 ends up at the sliver lap and six laps at the rib- bon laps. The weight per yard of lap at the ribbon lap machine should be about 260 grains. As the ribbon lap machine is at the drawing frame, never draw more than you double. In some mills the ribbon lap machine is not used, but where it is used it saves about IVz per cent waste at the comb- er. THE COMBER should be properly set so as to take out about 16 per cent waste, the weight of sliver at front being about 45 grains to yard. The speed of comber for this class of cotton should be not over 90 neps per minute. This class of cotton is very hard to comb and should be watched all the time to see that it is being handled properly. After the comber two processes of drawing are used, the sliver at the finisher weighing 70 grains per yard. The settings of the rolls should be as follows: front to sec- ond 1% inches, second to third 1% inches, and third to back 1% inches. THE SLUBBER ROVING, should be .55 hank and the first inter- mediate f[y frame roving 1.50 hank; second intermediate 4.00 hank, and 12 hanks or packs for spinning 60s and .55 hank slubber 2.00 first intermediate and 8.00 fine frame for 40s. Care must be used in setting the rolls as well as in the adjustment of other parts of the fly frames. The cotton is taken to the mule spinning room and spun into the counts mentioned above, from here it is taken and put through the different processes required and sent away to be mercerized. Dyeing Particulars. FIGURED SILK AND LENO WAIST- ING. DARK BLUE. 10 per cent tetrazo sulphur blue B, 8 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, 50 per cent common salt. Enter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly in cold water and give three washings in water. The tetrazo sulphur colors can be obtained from the New York and Boston Dyewood Company. BROWN. 10 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown R, 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 9 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, SO per cent common salt. En- ter at boil, boil one hour, rinse quickly in water and then thoroughly thr?e times. PEARL. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black R ex- tra, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 2 per cent sal soda, 10 per cent common salt; rinse well quickly in water, and thert thoroughly three times. STEEL. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur black Ex,. 1 ounce tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 10 per cent common salt; rinse well quickly in water.and then thoroughly three times. LIGHT GREEN. 1 per cent new methylene blue GG., Vz per cent thioflavine T, extra; enter at 120 degrees P. and get up to 160 de- grees P, in 30 minutes, and turn five or six times and wash. To be dyed or yarn mordanted with tannic acid and tartar emetic. TAN. 2 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, 2 per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 4 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, SO per cent common salt; enter at boil, boil one hour and wash well in three waters. ECRU. 1 per cent tetrazo sulphur bronze, % per cent tetrazo sulphur brown G, 1 per cent sulphide soda cone, 3 per cent sal soda, 20 per cent common salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, wash well in three Avaters. RED. 4 per cent benzo fast red GL, 20 per cent Glauber's salt, 2 per cent sal soda, enter at 150 degrees F, give six turns to 180 degrees F., wash well in water. PINK. V2 per cent diamond Rose GD, 2 per cent sal soda, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash in v/ater. MEDIUM BLUE. 6 per cent pyrogene Indigo blue, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour, and wash well in water. SKY BLUE. 2^2 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil, boil one hour; wash well in water. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent pyrogene green B, 3 per cent pyrogene yellow M, 13 per cent so- dium sulphide, 4 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; enter at boil. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 4& boil one hour; wash well in four waters. Finishing Particulars. Starch with eight ounces cornstarch 6 ounces white cocoanut oil softening, 1 gallon water, boil one hour; dry over stenter frame and calender. CORDUROY, en either -i-' i. or i twill, the pile Corduroy is a narrow, all cotton fab- ric, the distinguishing feature of which is the perfect half-round regu- lar ribs runningi warp ways through the cloth. As a fabric, it belongs to the general class of filling pile fabrics and is made of one system of warp and two of filling. The warp must be of good cotton staple to- make a fine strong end. The pile filling should be of first-class cotton, soft spun, to blend more readily when the ribs are rubbed after being cut and brushed. The warp and ground filling is wov- _i_ 1 1 "" 2 pick weaves with either one, two, or three warp end, and floats over from three to 12 warp ends. The length of the float of pile filling depends upon the width of rib or cord desired in the fabric. The important point about the pile weave is to cause the pile filling to weave with the same two or three warp threads. This gives us lines of binding and lines of filling floats run- ning warp ways. The velvety ribs or cords, as noted upon the face of a corduroy.are created by first cutting the lines of fioats of the pile filling. This operation is per- formed by hand with a very sharp steel knife, after which the ends of the floats are carefully brushed, and then rubbed together to the proper degree of consistency desired in ribs. Corduroy is Avoven with from 160 to 500 picks of filling per inch; and is afterward dyed in dark blue, tan, buff, green and olive colors, to be used in making clothing for men. It is also used for upholstery pur- poses, either in plain solid colors or the plain color has an elaborate floral design printed upon it. These printed patterns are usually in bright colors, such as red, yellow, light green. IN PRINTING, the design is first engraved upon a set of copper rollers. These are set into a regular machine, and as the cloth pass- es over them, the color being fed to the rollers automatically ,the design is placed upon the face of the cloth. It is woven so as to finish from 27 to ZlVo inches, the 27-inch for clothing and 311^-inoh for upholstery. This fabric requires a loom to be in good condition, as the beating in of such high number of picks per inch of filling is hai-d on the loom, and also necessitates slow production. It is usually woven on dobby or witch loom, having single or double box. or — or •!- 1 2 Weaves are usually -j Filling, 1 ground, 1 pile, 1 ground, 2 pile, or 1 ground, 2 pile, 1 ground, 1 JIinHBnnBHDDHBDnB DaiikDanaaDBHODaB asaStHEBfflSfflEHBHBBffiB DBBDDltlBDDBBDunBD afflBHQffifflBBBHBtBBffl fflSaBBBBBBBBBBti-BB BBCatSBIDai£BDGa..iDD Design. naDDDDaDnaaDDoaa DDLiGaaDaDDDDnncH DDannnisnanaDDDHa naDBDnnDDDDQ cca DDKnaaaanaaaDUJD DBDDDBDDGBDDCBDU BnnDH-DDEJnDDBUCn Drawing'-in Draft. D' "B8D[:FH""nisHcr.!rn BBGDHiin-i-'liiia- BttCG ReL'd Fi.m. nDDBDGBD ■aoMDHija UunUu'Juli UUDBCjUbU DUBktblBBHi □UBUULIL^M DBBUIBUlIU DDLJUIBUIlin DQBUUUUU BBUUUQDa Chain Draft. ■ Ground Weave —^ twill, a Means Hoats ot PUe Filling H Means sinking of Pile Filling under the warp for the purpose of binding pile, this to be woven in a pick and pick loom. Finish — ^Woven in the gray and dyed in the piece. CORDUROY. Four square inches equals 21.2 grains. Finished width, 31 inches equals 13.51 ounces. 48 ends per inch 2-28s cotton warp. 160 picks per inch l-24s cotton ground filling. 240 picks per inch l-20s cotton pile filling. The above equals finished cloth. Twenty pieces warp yarn, two inches equals 40 inches equals .65 grains; 40x 7000 equals 280000 divided by .65 equals 480769, equals 11965.8 divided by 840 equals 14.24 or 2-28s cotton warp yam. Eighty pieces ground filling, two 46 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. inches equals 160 inches equals 1.55 grains; 160x7000 equals 1120000,divide(l by 1.55 equals 722580, divided by 36 equals 20071.66, divided by 840 equals 23.89 or l-24s cotton ground filling. Weight of pile filling per one-half inch finished cloth two inches wide, equals 2.6 grains. 2.6 girains x 15^^ equals 40.32x72 equals 3097.5 grains divided by 437.5 equals 7.08 ounces. Pile filling per yard, cloth 31 inches wide. Forty-eight ends per inch finished times 31 inches equals 1488 yards plus 10 per cent take up in weaving equals 1653 yards of 2-28s cotton warp equals 2.249 ounces. 160 ground picks times 31 equals 4960 yards of l-24s cotton filling equals 3.- 936 ounces. 240 picks times 31 equals 7440 yards of l-20s cotton pile filling equals 7.0S ounces. 7440 yards times 16 equals 119040 yards divided by 840, equals 1417, di- vided by 7.0S equals l-20s pile filling. CONSTRUCTION. 36 ends per inch in reed; 38% inches wide, 10 per cent take-up; 25 per cent contraction in width from reed to finished fabric; 18 per cent in- crease in weight in dyeing. COLOR— DARK GREEN. To be used for upholstery purposes. — ? twill weave. Filling: 1 ground pick, 2 pile pick, 1 ground pick, 1 pile pick. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Yarn suitable for making corduroy is made in the second division of mills, given in a previous lesson. The raw stock used should be of a good grade cotton of about 1 inch staple. The mixings should be as large as possible' for reasons already stated in previous lessons. One large group of mills, which make this class of goods, use a somewhat different machine for open- ing up the raw cotton from that which has been described, and instead of us- ing an opener after the cotton is put through the bale breaker, it is fed to a machine called THE WILLOW. The cotton is fed into the machine in small lots and the machine pulls it apart and thoroughly airs it. Some overseers claim that this machine treats the cotton to a more thorough airing than when an opener is used. It is again claimed that, in consequence of this fact, the cotton may be used right from the bale or mixed at this ma- chine. It is an English machine, and while this system is used to some ex- tent in England, it is the general cus- tom to use the opener in this country. Good sliver waste from the cards and drawing frames is used in the mixing, as is also the sliver and lap waste,from the comber room, when the mill is equipped with combers. TWO PROCESSES OF PICKERS are used with either a willow or an opener. Cut-roving waste is used and is mixed in at the finisher picker in the way that has been described in a pre- vious lesson. If an opener is used, the speed of the beater should be about 1,000 to 1,100 revolutions per minute, with a speed of the fan about 350 rev- olutions per minute. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker should be about 1.500 revolutions per minute, and the speed of the fan about 1,400 revolu,- tions per minute. A good weight for the lap made at the breaker picker is 40 pounds, while a good weight per j^ard of lap is 16 ounces. At the fin- isher picker the speed of the beater should be 1,450 revolutions per minute for a two-bladed beater, or 9.50 revo- lutions per minute for a three-bladed beater. The speed of the fan should be about 1,100 revolutions per minute with either beater. A GOOD WEIGHT for the lap would be about 38 pounds and the weight per yard 14 ounces. To get the gTade of cotton used for this class of cloth clean, about 42 beats should be given to every inch of cot- ton fed at the back of the finisher pick- er. In other words, every inch of cot- ton should be struck 42 times before it is passed by the beater. With the above speed of the beater (1,450) this would be the number of blows that every inch of cotton received. Don't forget that it is very important to re- move the fly from underneath the pick- ers at regular intervals during the day, bexjause, if the fly is allowed to accum- ulate to any great extent, it might be drawn into the already cleaned cotton passing through the machine, and it is sometimes done as all persons work- ing around cards know, as they have seen at various times large patches of fly on the lap of cotton. This of course requires the card TO DO EXTRA WORK and clean and take out this dirt. It very often results in bringing up the feed roll or the licker-in of the card, if not noticed in time to remove the fly. It will be seen that it is important A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 47 to keep thei picker room clean at all times. It is very impoirtant to keep foreign matter, sucli as nails or pieces of metal, out of the cotton in the pick- er room, because of the liability of fires in the pickers, these being started by the foreign substance coming in con- tact with the quick moving beater blades and a spark being struck which ignites the cotton. This is apt to cause a bad fire if not promptly at- tended to. The SETTINGS OF THE CARD should be the same as given in a pre- vious lesson on yarn, made in the sec- ond division of mills. The draft of the card should be about 100 to 125 for this class of cotton, the weight of the sliver at the front ^5 grains to the yard; production, about 800 pounds per week of 60 hours. Three processes of drawing are used,the weight at the fin- isher drawing being 70 grains per yard. The hank roving at the slubber should be about .55. The two-process fly frame is used, the hank at the first in- termediate being 2, and at the second intermediate 6.00 hank roving. The rule for settings at these machines for this hank of roving has been given. The spinning frame spins all the re- quired counts for this hank roving, which, of the corduroy under descrip- tion, is 20s, 24s, and 28s, by changing the draft gear. The 28s yarn is then taken to the twister and doubled, so as to make 2-2Ss. A good sizing for the slasher for this class of goods is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, four pounds; turpentine, one pint. Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed at the jigger machine, a piece of 30 pounds being dyed. Care must be taken not to crush the pile. One-dip colors are used for some goods, but, as the sulphur colors are so much improved, the bottom color is dyed with sulphur colors, and the goods topped with brighter aniline col- ors. COLOR NO. 1— BLACK. Blacks are sometimes dyed with a sulphur black as a bottom color. For ,',0 pounds of cloth (all of these colors are for 30 pounds of cloth); 15 gallons liquor, 3 pounds immedial black V Ex., 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 3 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Dissolve in separate tub, boil and strain through cotton cloth. Add to jig, in two por- tions, at first two ends. Run for 30> minutes at boil. Rinse in jig. After- treat with 1 pound bichromate potash, one-half pound sulphate iron. Rinse well and dye logwood black. Rinse well and top with a paint color as Prussian blue, or dye with a basic color. ANOTHER BLACK. Dye as color No. 1, with immedial black, and top Avith oxy diamine black AM, and rinse. Top with basic color or paint with Prussian blue. DARK BLUE. 2-4 pounds immedial blue C, 2-4 pounds sulphide sodium, 3 pounds so- da ash, 3 pounds common salt at 175 degrees F. Run 30 minutes. After- treat, cold 15 gallons liquor, 4 pounds peroxide soda, 6 ounces ammonia. Run 20 minutes. For further batches, half the amount of drugs v^all suffice. The color can be shaded up with basic colors. TAN. 1 pound immedial brown B, 1 pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run at boil for 30 minutes. Top with Bismarck brown. BUFF. 1 pound immedial bronze A, 2 ounces immedial yellow D, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 minutes. Rinse and aftertreat. 1 pound bichro- mate of potash. PEARL. 3 ounces immedial black V extra, 1 ounce immedial brown B, 1 pound so- dium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 2 pounds common salt. Run at boil 30 minutes. Aftertreat, Vz pound bichro- mate potash, yi pound sulphate copper. RED 2 pounds diamine fast red F, 10 pounds Glauber's salt. Run one hour at boil. Rinse. Aftertreat, V^. pound fiuoride chrome. Top with diamine scarlet or safranine. GREEN. 1 pound immedial black V extra, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with solid green crystals O. LIGHT GREEN. 14 pound katigen chrome blue 5G, 1 pound sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal 48 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. - soda, S pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes at boil. Rinse. Top with auramine and green. OLIVE. 1 pound pyrogene olive N, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, 2 pounds sal soda, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. Rinse. Top with auramine and Bis- marck brown. DARK BRO\ArN. 2 pounds sulphur brown, 4 ounces sulphur black, 3 pounds sodium sul- phide, 3 pounds common salt. Run 30 minutes. Rinse. Top with auramine green, Bismarck brown or paint a brown on top, or dye a cateohu and chrome bottom, and top with the above brown. ♦-^-^ DIMITY. Dimity is a light-weight cotton wash fabric, the distinguishing feature of which is the cords or ribs running DaDHaaaBaDDEDaBH mDvamaaamaaamaaa DBDESaHDHDaDB ■■■ ■OBasDaDnKaaaDDa DBDBDaiGIIDDaaDBaB BDBDnnvOBBBDBGDC DBaniDHoar_.aaBaBBa ■aBDiSDBnBBBDBDDa Desiffn. □nnannnHDDnnoBrn DnisaaQaDDDDDBaDa nBDnnBaDnaaanncD BQDaaaDDBDDannDa Drawinff-in Draft. DnaBnnaHnnDBwnDn BaaDHBaGiBaBoaBaa I 3 ends per he gallons water, one pint caustic soda,. 8S A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. and rinse. Repeat operation till shade is dark enough; rinse well. CHROME YELLOW. Pass through solution 10 gallons water, one pound white sugar lead, squeeze, pass through solution 10 gal- lons water, one pound hichrome, four pounds common salt; rinse well. CHROME ORANGE. Pass through solution of sugar lead, 24 degrees T'w., squeeze. Pass througn hot lime water, squeeze, dhrome, two ounces to gallon boiling, squeeze; run fhroug'h hot lime water and rinse. LIGHT BROWN. Four per cent immedial cutch C; 4 per cent imm'edial brown B; 8 per <:ent sulphide soda;. 3 per cent soda; 30 per cenlt Glauber's; rinse, after treated to make color much faster: 2 per cent blue stone; 2 per cent chrome; 3 per cent acetic acid; rinse and soap. DARK BROWN. Six per cent immedial cutch G; 6 per cent immedial brown B; % per cent immedial black N R; 10 per cent sul- phide sodium; 3 per cent soda; 30 per Dramng- ID Draft I I nnaannaa BBanaaDD Reed Plan oaaanDBB BBDaaBDa „ DDaaDDBB I DDBaDDaa ^ aanaaaDa is aaaaDDaa ^ aaDGaana -S Weave o nnannnaa S DanDaDDD .s nnanDDDa 5 BODDDDna <2 Brawing-in Braf fc 6 DDDDBBBB aaaaaaaa Aeed Plan WARP PATTERN. 8 blue. 2 white. 2 blue. 2 white. 14 ends per pattern. 2,128 ends in warp divided by 14 equals 152 repeats in pattern. 10 blue ends per pattern x 152 equals 1,520 plus 40 ends blue selvedge equals 1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp yarn. 4 white ends per pattern x 152 equals 608 ends, l-16s white warp yam. 1,560 ends, l-16s blue warp yam plus 8 per cent take-up equals 1,695 yards equals 2.017 ounces. 608 ends, l-16s white warp yam plus 8 per cent take- up equals 660 yards equals .785 ounces. 38 picks, 1-16S blue filling yam x 28^ inches equals 1,083 yards equals 1.265 ounces; total 4.067 ounces. 4.067 ounces per yard, 27 Inches wide fimished. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The millSi which make the oountS' of 5^ am required for cheviots^ ^belong to the second division, given in a previous article. This is one of thie coarser 68 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. yarns •made in this division and is man- ufaciuired from istock of about 1 inoh in staple. The 'mixings should be as large as pos'sihle and are generally done by hand, lalthough this division of mills is igenerally equipped with a bale breaker. Of -coairsie, if the bale breaker is not too hard pushed or is S'topped on account of all ithe other bins iOif beitter grades of cotton being full, then the raw a'tock for ;thiis class of goods will be run -through the bale breaker. The bale breaker is capable of handling 80,000 to 90,000 pounds per week and requires laJbout 2 iron horse power to drive it. IF FLOOR SPACE IS AVAILABLE two mixing bims ishould be used in- stead of one for reasons before stated. The cotton, after being dried out, should be run through two- proeesses of picking an-d an opener. Keep the hopiaer of the opener as near full as possible to make an even lap at 'the front. Keep the pinroUer of the opener clear of all cotton, sio that it may be able to do its duty. On some makes this iroUer is a great deal of trouble, which is caused by the cotton adher- ing to it and winding around it until it does no!t strike the cotton from the liiftlng apron properly. This is espe- cially true when sliver waste (from all machines which make sliver) is mixed in with the raw stock at the liiuis (as is customary). The speed of thi© oipener beater for this elass of cot- ton 'Should be 1,100 revolutions per minute. The sp-eed -of the breaker beater should not exceed 1,500 revo- lutionise per minute. THE WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should be about 40 pounds or 16 O'unices to the yard of lap. Care should be taken that the drafts on both 'th'e breaker 'and finisher pickers are regulated to the best advantage so as to obtain a smooth, firm, even lap at th'e front. To do thiis the draft is directed iSO that the co'tton, after being acted irpon by the beiater, is blown O'U the top cage. The laps made at the breaker are put up at the back 'of the finiLsher p'icker and doubled 4 into 1. The' speed of the finisher picker beater should be 1,450 revolutions per m'inute, whicih gives 'this grade and staple of cotton 'Passing by it abiO'tit 42 beats to the inich. The weight of the total lap at the front ishould be about 39 poun'ds, which gives wh'at lis knoiwn as a 14i/^- ounoe (to the yard) lap. OILING. Take care to oil 'all rapidly moving parts of .the 'pickers at regular and fre- quent intervals .and keep all fly from oolleoting under these 'machines. See that the pickers are properly oleaning the cotton, and don't make the card do the picker's work. Th'e laps from the finisher picker are put up at the back of the card, the draft of which (for this class of goods) should. not exceed 100. Th'e Wire fillet used should lalso be not too coarse. Always keep an eye on the se'ttiings land watch the flat waste, because firom th'e appeiarance of this "ftnaste we are able to tell whether the cotton is being 'piroperly carded oi not. THE SLIVER should W'eigh about 65 gramS' per yard and the produotion should be around 900 pounds iper week of 60 hours. Keep 'Card wire sh'arp. Tlie sliver is next run through 3 processes of draw- ing, the d'oubling being 6 into 1. The weight of the finisher dirawing should be about 70 grains. The slubber rov- ing should be' about .50 hank -and there should be two processe'S 'Of fly frames. The roving at 'the first intermediate should be 1.50 and; at th'e S'econd ei- ther 4 'Or 4.50, according to whether warp 'Or fillin'g yarn Is' tO' be made from it, the fine ha'uk beiing made into 22s filling yarn an'd the coiatrs'er hiank roving b'eing 'miade into 16is warp yam, Thie yaim for this^ class 'Of goodS' is spun on A RING SPINNING FRAME. the particulars of which are as fol- lows: For warp frame spinning 16s us'e McMullen, Whitin or Draper No. 4 spindle; gauge of frame 2% iu'ches; diamieter of ring, 2 inches; length otf travers'e, 7 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revoilutions per minute; for fill- ing frame making 22s, spindle as above except No. 2 Draper; gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter 'Of ring, 1^ inches'; length of traverS'e, 6% inCh'es; Sipeed of spindle, 7,400 revolutions pel minute. Dyeing Particulars. Following are gO'O'd 'fo'rmulas for the colors use'd in dyeing che-yiot shirt- ings : LIGHT GREEN. 2 per cent Immedial yellow D; 4 per cent immedial in done 3B; 5 per cent cent S'Odi'Uim sulphiide; 3 per ce-nt Glau- ber's; 3 per cent soda. ORANGE. 4 per cent immedial orange C; 4 per A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. DARK BLUB. 3 per cent immedial indone 3 B; 3 per cent immedial indone R; 2 per cemt immedial indone B; 11 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cenit isioda; 30 per cent Glauber'Si. DARK BROWN. 2 per cenit thion black B ; 8 per cent tMon brown G; 10 per cent sodium sul- phlide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. SLATE. 2 per cent thion black B; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. RED. 5 per cent benzo scarlet 4 BS; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. YELLOW. 1 per cent chlioramine yellow M; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. SALMON. V2 per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. OLIVE. 5 per cent pyrogene olive N; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 15 per cent katigen black S W; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. AlJter dyeing, all of the colors' men- tioned must be well rinsed with three waters. A light soaping at thie bodl must thien be given, folloiwed by .an- other rinsing. The colors will be faist to washing and will not bleed into each other. NOVELTY DRESS GOODS. Novelty dress goods is a light-weight single cloth fabric, made from single and tw0"ply cotton yamsi in both warp and filling, and is woven in large and small plaidS', also solid colors. The distinct feature of this fabric is ifche promineiice given the heavy yarns^ which are ailways woven with a fancy weave in such a manner as to form an all-over effect ini imitation of a jacquard pattern. The ground or body of the cloth is usually woven with a plain weave, ' — . In the better grades of novelty dress goods, merino and silkoline yarns are often used. In making this class of goods it is sometimes necessary to use two beams in weaving, as the differ- ence of take-iup in the ground and fancy yarns will not permit of one beam be- ing used. Novelty dressi goods are made to weigh from 3 to 5 ounces per yard; generally l-20s to l-30s cotton ground warp and filling yarns, and 2-20s to 2-40s, and 1-Ss to l-12s yarns are used to produce overplaided or novelty weave effects. This fabric is made in all dress goods colors 'and goods patterns pro- duced by using dark green, brown. Brown White ' ■DaDaaBDaaHaBD I DaaaDaaaaaaaaa 1 aoaaaaaDBDaaaa aBDBDaaaaaaeDa i aaBaHDaaBDBBDa > aaaaDBaaoBBoaa aDBDaDBDBDaaaa DaaBDBDBDaaBBB BDBDBDanBaaaBa DaaananaDaaaaa aaaanDnaoDaaaa DDDaaDDDDaDaDa DnnDDaanDnaDBD DcnDDonaaanBDa Design □nnaanncnDDDDB □DDDoar jDDDDDan DDnDDDDDDDOBDa □nDnnDnDDDBDDD oannGnDDBDDDDa nnDDDDDBDBDDDa DDnnDDBannDDQa DaDDDBnannanna DaaDaDDDDDDDDn DDaaDDDDDDDDnn naann "DDDnDDDD anaODDDDDODDDD Drawinc-ia Draft nDaaDDBanDaann ■aaDBBDaBBDaaa Eeed Plan ■DDBDI ^BBDBE IDDI ■ D DBBaaDBOBBDa ■DDanaDHaaDB DaaDBDaaaaaa BDaBDBDaBDaa GBaDBDaaDBBB aDaaDBnaDBBB DaanaaaoDaaa aaDDDDDDanan DnaanDDDDBDa EQaDBBDpanaD LjLjULjL.u».fcU«La Cham Draft dark or cherry red, navy hlue, etc., for ground color and crossing these with black. Cotton novelty goods caai be woven in any power loom having a box mo- tion anid doibby or head motion at- tached. Mutual or Fairmount 4x1 hox looms, having either IngraJham, Old- ham or Stafford top, are all right for this line. To finish these goods, they are meas- ured, then brushed and run through a steam box to livem the colors, after which they are rolled and pressed, ready to pack and ship. CONSTRUCTION. 27 inches finished. 4 square inches equals 5.7 grains. 27 x36 equals 972x5.7 equals 5,504.4 divid- ed by 4 equals 1,385 divided by 437.5 equals 3.165 ounces per yard. 20 pieces black warp yarn x 2 inches equals 40 Inches equals 1 grain. 40x 70 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 7,000 equals 280,000 divided by 1 equals 280,000 divided by 36 equals 7,777 di- vided by 840 equals 2-20 black warp. 38 pieces brown, warp yarn x 2 inches equals 76 inches equals .92 grains. 7B x7,000 equals 532,000 divided by .92 equals 578,260 divided by 36 equals 16,- 062 divided by 840 equals 1-20 brown warp. 12 pieces wliite warp yarn x 2 inches equals 24 inches equals .27 grains. 27x 7,000 equals 108,000 divided by .27 equals 622,222 divided by 36 equals 17,- 284 divided by 840 equals 1-20 White warp. 24 pieces 'black filling yarn x 3 inches equals 72 inches equals 1.45 grains. 72x7,000 equals 504,000 divided by l.'io equals 347,586.2 divided by 36 equals 9,655.17 divided by "840 equals 1-12 black filling. 17 pieces brown filling yarn x 3 iniches equals 51 inches equals .5 grains. 51x7,000 equals 357,000 divided by .5 equals 7,140,000 divided by 36 equals 198,333 divided by 840 equals 1-21 brown. 12 pieces white filling yarn x 3 inches equals 36 inches equals. 35 grains. 36x7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .35 equals 7,200,000 divided by 36 equals 200,000 divided by 840 equals 1-24 whTte filling. 50 ends per Inch finished and 48 picks per inch finished equals 44 ends per inch in reed and 43 picks per inch in loom. 10 per cent take-up on w'hite and brown warp, 2 per cent ou black warp. WARP PATTERN. 4 Brown'l 4 Brown hFUling same. 4 Black J 32 ends white selvedge. Reed 800 — 2 ends per dent. SOVz inches in reed including sel- vedge. 95 repeats of pattern plus 4 ends. 1,334 ends plus 32 ends selvedge. 8 brown per pat. x 95 patterns equals 760 plus 4 equals 764 plus 10 per cent take- up equals 848.88 yards 1-20 equals .8084 ounces. 4 black per pat. x 95 pat- terns equals 380 plus 10 per cent take- up equals 400.00 yards 2-20 equa'ls .V619 ounces. 2 white per pat. x 95 patterns equals 190 plus 10 per cent take-up equals 211.11 yards 1-20 equals .2010 ounces. 32 white selvedge plus 15 per cent take-up equals 37.64 yards 1-20 equals .0358 ounces. Total warp weight, 1.8071 ounces. 8-14 of filling equals brown or 740.56 yards 1-24 equals .5877 ounces. 4-14 of filling equals black or 370.28 yards 1-12 equals .5877 ounces. 2-14 of filling equals white or 185.14 yards 1-24 equals .1469 ounces. Total 3.1294. 3.1294 ounces finished, 27 inches wide. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for novelty dress goiods would probably be made in mills of the second division. For this class of goods three or more different counts of yarns are generally used, the counts varying from 4s to 40s, the medium yarn being from 20s to 30s. For the cloth under description we will con- sider that the yarns used are as fol- lows: 8s, to produce one effect and 2-20s anoither, both of these yarns be- ing used on the face of 'the cloth, and l-30s for the ground warp and filling yarns. In some malls it is the custom to make all these counts of yarns from one staple and grade of cotton to save time and to reduce the number of mix- ings in order that the cotton may pass up to a certain point on the same ma- chines, the only difference being that the finier yarns are run through one more process of fly frames. While this undoubtedly saves time and ma- chines and may be done when the counts of yarn used in the cloth do not vary a great deal, still it is gener- ally the case to have two or even three different mixtures, one for the very coarsie, one for the medium and one for the fine yarns. In this lesson we will consider that there are TWO MIXINGS, or in other words, two grades and staples of raw stock used, one for the 8s and another mixing for the 20s to 30s yarn. For 8s yarn the staple of the raw stock should be from % to 1 inch in length arid for the finer counts, cotton of from 1% tol3-16incJi staple may be used. The %-inch stock would pToibab'ly be mixed 'by hand, i. e., taken from the bale and pulled into Simall bunches and spread in the mix- ing bin by the help. In this mixture all good waste of the same length r staple is usiod, the roving waste being treated, as previously mentioned; sometimes, but not often, comber waste is used, but a large percentage should not be used. FOR THE FINER COUNTS the raw stock would be run through a bale breaker or, if no bale breaker was in the mill equipment, then the cotton would be mixed by hand the same as cotton fo^r the coarser counts except that no comber waste would be used. Two processes of picking and an opener would he used with hoth proc- esses. All the points in connection A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 71 witti the opener given in former ar- ticles should be carefully observed; the speed of the fan of the breaker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute for both stocks and the weight of the laps 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. The speed of the fan at the finisher picker should be a little less t'han at the breaker picker and the speed of the fan about 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing under the action of the beater about 42 beats or blows per inch. The weig'ht of the lap of tlie %-inch stock sliould be 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard, and for the finer counts of yarn, 35 pounds or 12 1^ ounces to the yard. The DRAFT OF THE CARD for the coarser count should not exceed 100 and for the finer count should not be less than 100. The same size of wire fillet may be used for both grades or, generally sipeaking. No. 33 Mre fillet for cylinder and No. 34 wire fillet for doffer and top flats, 'ji'he main points of difference would be in the setting of the card for the dif- ferent stocks, the longer staple of cot- ton requiring the closer settings, the production for the "^-incti stock being 900 pounds and for the 1%-inch stock from 750 to 800 pounds per week of 60 hours. The doffer of the card s^hould be as large as possible in both cases, either 26 or 27 inch diameter. Keep THE CARD WIRE sharp and be sure that the wire on the fiats is of uniform length, because, if this is not the case, 'bad work is bound to result on account of the fact that even settings of the flats with the cyl- inder cannot be obtained. The weight per yard of the* sliver would be the same in both cottons or 65 grains per yard. The %-inc'h stock would be put through two processes of drawing and the longer staple three processes, doubled 6 into 1 in both cases. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing would be the saime, or y2 grains per yard. The same hank rov- ing would be made at the slubber, or .55 ha.nk, althougfh the SETTINGS OF THE ROLLS of iboth oif the last named processes wooild be different. Only one process of drawing would 'be used on the %- inch S'tock and at the fly frame it •would be made into 1 ;hank roving and from here passed to the spinning room. For the 1 %-inch stock two processes would be used. At tlie first interme- diate the slufbiber roving would 'be made into 2 hank roving and at tbe second the roving for 20s count yarn would be made into 4 hank and for the 30s count would ibe made into 6 hank. T'he roving would then be taken to THE SPINNING ROOM, wihere the required count would be spun. The particulars for a warp frame making 20s yarn have been giv- en in a previous lesson; for a warp frame making 8s, the following par- ticulars may be used; any high-grade spindle, length of traverse, 7 incn, gauge of spindle, 3% inches, diameter of ring, 2% inches, speed of spindle, 8,100 revolutions per minute. For a warp frame making 30s use gauge of spindle, 2% inclies, diameter of ring, 1% inches, length of traverse, 6 inches, speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per minute. T:he yarn is then spooled and warped and dyed. For some of the ef- fects produced in this class of goods two yarns of different colors are twist- ed together; for this a machine known as a twister is used, one thread of eacH color l)eing twisted together. Dyeing Particulars. DARK GREEN. 4 per cent tetrazo brilliant green J; 30 per cent Glauiber's; 3 per cent sal soda. RED. 4 per cent tetrazo fast red 4 B; 30 per cent Glauiber's; 3 per cent sa:l soda. LIGHT SKY BLUB. 1 per cent tetrazo blue, 6 B new; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. 3 per cent tetrazo corinth; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BLUE. o per cent tetrazo blue B X; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 p'cr cent sal soda. DARK BROWN. 3 per cent tetrazo dark brown; '^ per cent tetrazo black brown; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LILAC. 2 per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac xi; 2 per cent sal sioda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. LIGHT SLATE. 14 per cent tetrazo black N; %: per cent tetrazo brilTiant l)lue B B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. DARK SLATE. 1% per cent tetrazo black N; % per cent tetrazo blue 3 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. OLIVE. 1/4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 72 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 3 per cent diamine bronze G; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 5 per cent tetrazo black N; 3 per oemt sial sodia; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. 3 per cent tetrazo blue B X; ^ per cent tetrazo blue 4 R; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. The above colors are for first batBs, for a standing bath. One-third of the color can be taken away from these amoiunts. After dyeing, yarn must be well rinsed in water. DRILL. Cotton drill is a medium weight, single cloth, weighing from 4 to 6 ounces and composed of coarse all-cot- ton yarns, warp and filling. It is al- ways made with a small uneven sided twill weave, generally — ^ (warp ef- fect) twill weave. Drill is sometimes made from yams in the gray and afterwards dyed in the piece, or in solid warp color ef- fects, such as indigo blue and dark brown, white filling being used in each instance. It can be woven in any single box roller loom, such as Draper, Lowell, Lewiston, Colvin, Mason, or Kilburn & Lincoln, and is usually drawn in and woven on cotton harness, as these are light in weight and wear better than wire heddles for this style of cotton goods. THE WARP is beamed on the slasher, the warp proper being divided into a certain number of sections, in accordance with the number of ends to 'be used in the drill warp. These sections are beamed on the warp mill, the yarn being run on to the beam from the spools in the creel rack. The several section beams, when completed in the warp mill, are assembled in the beam rack at the end of the slasher and the yarn from each beam is run through the size tub and over the drying cylinder of the slash- er at the same time, on to the slash- er beam, thus making a complete warp, the sizing and beaming being done at one operation. Slasher warps do not have a lease in them, the yarn being kept nearly straight in place by the use of a slash- er comb, which is, in fact, a shallow reed having one open side. The comb is pressed through the threads, while they are spread taut in the slasher frame and a wooden cap is then fast- ened upon the open side of the slasher comb, thereby holding the yarn in place for the operation of drawing in. The drawing in is performed by girls, without the aid of a bander in, as is the case when pattern warps are drawn in from a lease. The drawer in for drill, -ases a three- bladed hook (a blade for each harness) and the harnesses or heddles are hung upon a rack immediately in front of the beamed wary. The drawer in, if experienced, will pick out three hed- dles and three ends at one time, and continue to do so until the total warp ends are threaded through the har- nesses or heddles. To finish colored drill, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brusher, to remove all lint and waste threads, after which they are put through the size tubs and then dry x)rGSS6d,. CONSTRUCTION. 4 square inches equals 9.95 grains. 30x36 equals 1,080x9.95 equals 10,746 divided by 4 equals 2,686.5 divided by 437.5 equals 6.14 ounces per yard fin- ished. 30 pieces blue warp x 2i/^ equals 75 inches equals 1.9 grains. 75x7,000 equals 525,000 divided by 1.9 equals 276,315.8 divided by 36 equals 7,675.43 divided by 840 equals 1-lOs cotton. 30 pieces white filling x IVz equals 45 inches equals .55 grains. 45x7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .55 equals 572,727 divided by 36 equals 15,909 divided by 840 equals l-18s cotton. 66 ends per inch finished and 48 picks per inch finished equal 63 ends per inch loom and 44 picks per inch loom. 10 per cent take up in weaving minus 6i/^ per cent contraction in reed. 16 ends selvedge. 30 inches finished equals 32 inches in — twill weave. 750 reed minus 3 ends per dent. Finish equals size and dry press. 66x30 equals 1,980 plus 16 equals 1,- 996 plus 10 per cent equals 2,218 yards 1-lOs cotton warp equals 4.224 ounces. 48 picks x 30 equals 1,440 yards, l-18s cotton filling equals 1.523 ounces. 4.224 ounces warp. 1.523 ounces filling. B.747 ounces loom weight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery used to make the counts of yarns for the kind of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 73 cloth under description would be found in mills of the first and perhaps of the second division, as given in a previous lesson. As the yarns are made from a short staple, low-grade cotton, the mixing will probably be done by hand; i. e., the bales of cotton would be opened at the mixing bin and the cotton separated into small parts and piled up in the bin until it was full. The good waste from cards and drawing frames would also- be mixed in with the raw stock, and in the cheaper grades of drill comber waste is sometimes used in small quantities. The same length of staple may be used for both warp and filling yarns and they may be run through the same machines up to the fly frames, and here THE ONLY DIFFERENCE is that the roving to make the filling yarn is run through one more process of fly frames than the warp yarn. The mixing is^ taken from the bins and thrown into the hopper of the opener and this hopper is always kept full. Keep the pin beater free from cotton, so that an even sheet of cotton may be ■DBBaaBaBBaaaa □■■aBBDBMDBBDa ■■DBaaaHDHaDBa aDaaDaaDaanaaa DaaaaaGBaDaaaa aaaaaDaaaaaDaa aaaaDBaDaaaaan aaaDaaaaaDaaDa aaaBBDaaaaaDaa aDaaDaaDaaaaaa DBaGaanaaaaaDa aaDBBDaaDBaaaa aaaaoaaaaauaaa Weave □nanDanDannanna DBnnannaDDannan aDGBDDBDaaaaaca Drawing-iD Draft DDnaBanDDBaaDDD aBaauDBBaaaDBaa ReciJ Plan 6.140 ounces finished. 5.747 ounces loom. .393 ounces = sizing in finishing. Abcut 6>i per cent of size. passed up to the beater, the speed of which should be about 1,050 revolu- tions per minute. In modern mills this opener is built in connection with the breaker picker, and the cotton, after passing the beater, is thrown on to a moving lattice and is brought to the feed rolls of the breaker picker, which in turn condenses it and passes the beater v/hich should have a speed of 1,500 revolutions per minute. See that the draught of this picker and also the finisher picker is so directed that the cotton, after passing the beater, will be blown upon the top of the pair of cages, as this will HELP TO MAKE AK EVEN LAP at the front end. The weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker should be about 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. The laps are then put up at the finisher ipicker and doubled four into one. The speed of this beater should be 1,450 revolutions per minute and the weight of the finished lap about 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard. The cotton re- ceives about 42 beats to the inch at this machine. The draft of this ma- chine is very small and very rarely ex- ceeds 3. All heavy and quickly mov- ing parts should be oiled frequently and keep the room clean. The laps are then put up at the card. The draft of thiS' machine should not ex- ceed 100 for this class of goods. THE SETTINGS should be wide, because it is the ob- ject to get off as many pounds as pos- sible for this class of goods. Keep the wire sharp by frequent grindings. The speed of the licker-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute. The speed of the top flats should be one co'mplete revolution in 40 minutes and the speed of the doffer from 1314 to 14 revolutions per minute. The di- ameter of the doffer should be as large as poasible, say 26 or 27 inches. The production should be about 800 pounds for a week of 60 hours. THE SLIVER should weigh about 65 grains to the yard. The sliver is run through three processes of drawings, the weight at the finisher drawing being 70 grains. The doublings at the different pro- cesses of drawing should be 6 into 1 and the drafts should not exceed 6. The speed of the front roller should be 400 revolutions per minute. The slubber is the next process, and here the sliver should be made into a 50 hank roving. The warp yarn is then put through one more process of fly frame and made into 1.25 to 1.50 hank roving and from here passed to the spinning room. The filling yarn is put through one more process and is made into 2.50 hank roving and then passed on to the spinning room. THE SPINNING FRAME then draws the roving into the re- quired hank by having the correct draft gear put on. Good specifications for both the warp and filling frames are as follows: for warp frame, for spinning 10s yarn, gauge of spindle, three inches: diameter of ring, two 74 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. inches; lengbh of traverse, 7 inclies; speed of spindle 8,600 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 15.02; for fill- ing frame spinning 18s yarn, gauge of sipindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; speed of spindle, 7,200 rev- olutions per minute; length of trav- erse, 6^^ inches; twist per inch, 13.79. The warp yarn is then spooled, rwarped and run through a islasher. Dyeing Particulars. Drills are yarn dyed, Wue and brown, indigo or sulphur blues, cutch or sulphur browns. PYROGENE INDIGO BLUE. 10 per cent color; 20 per cent sul- phide sodium; 8 per cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt; 2 per cent mineral oil, 1 hour at 200 degrees F. Aftertreated with iy2 per cent biohrome; lYz per cent sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw. Well rinsed and soaped. A soap made of 2 per cent paraffin wax; 2 per cent glue ; 2 per cent dextrine is consid- ered very suitable. Turn for 15 min- utes at 120 degrees F. Squeeze and dry. BROWN. 5 per cent immedial cutch O; 1 per cent Immedial dark brown A; 3 per cent immedial brown B; 8 per cent sul- phide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Turn at 200 degrees F. for one hour, rinse and aftertreat: 1% per cent bichrome; lYz per cent sulphate copper; 3 per cent acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 30 minutes at 200 degrees F. Rinse, and soap with a weak solution at boil. A variety of shades are piece dyed on drills and used for various pur- poses, where a very strong cloth is re- quired. SLATE. 3 per cent thion black B; 3 per cent siulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent common salt. Rinse well and soap. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G; 15 per cent sulphide so.dium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse •well and soap. BUFF. 1 per cent thion brown G; % per cent thion yellow R; 2 per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent common salt. Rinse well and soap. OLIVE. 4 per cent immedial olive B; ^ per cent immedial black N G; % per cent immedial yellow D; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. SKY BLUE. 3 per cent immedial sky blue pow- der; 3 per cent sodium sulphate; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. GREEN. 10 per cent katigen green 2 B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse well and soap. DARK BOTTLE GREEN. 10 per cent Immedial dark green B; 2 per cent immedial yellow D; % per cent immedial black N G; 13 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. RED. 5 per cent diamine fast red; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse and aftertreat with 1 per cent fluoride chrome. FLANNELETTE . Flannelette is a narrow, light-weiglht fabric coimposed of all cotton yarns, from l-30s to l-14s in the warp and fill- ing, the filling being soft spun to per- mit of 'thie raising of a very slight nap on the back of the goods. The cloth is woven with bleached yarn (warp and filling), the color ef- fe^ots b'eiing afterwardis printed upon the face of the goods by the printing maclhlne. Flannelette is made, with simple one or two ooloreid strip© patterns, either black and white, or indigo blue and white, and in elaborate all-over floral designs in imitation of jacquard pat- terns, the ground colors being of a dark tone, and the figure of either harmonious or contrasting combina- tions of color. The finished fabric is sold by the retailer at 8 to 10 cents per yard, 27 inches wide, and is used very extensively in the manufacture A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 75 of ladies' wrappers, kimonos, etc., for house wear, and whioh, when soiled, can be thrown into^ the family wash and cleaned. THE PRINTING OPERATION is performed b.y an autoimatic machino, which consists of a series of rollers or drums, over which the cloth is passed to hold it taut, and smooth all Avrin- kles so that the goods present an even surface to the printing roll. Upon this roller the design or pat- tern is engraved, and the liquid color being fed upon it as it revolves, the cloth passes over the surface, and re- tains an exact impression of the de- sign (in colors) that has been en- graved upon the roller. Flannelette can be woven in any- single box roller loom, such as Drap- er, Lowell, Levviston, etc., and the fin- ish means taking from the loom and DaaaaHBa ■■aoBHDa ■aaaaaaa DGaaDGHa DaaDDBaD aaDnnaDD aaoaaoDB Dnnannna Daannnaa DBaaaann aaaoanDD DDaaDDaa aaDDaaac Reed Piatt DDaa Daaa aaaa aDDB DDBB DBBD aaaa BDDB Uamess Chain "brushing off, to remove loose threads, then running through the napper to produce a nap on the back of the goods, after which the fahric is print- ed. CONSTRUCTION. 27 inches finished. 4 square inches equals 4.85 grains. 27x36 equals 972x4.85 equals 5,714.20 divided by 4 equals 1,428.55 divided by 437.5 equals 3.034 ounces per yard, 27 inches wide. 20 pieces white warp x 2% equals 50 inches equals .35 grains. 50x7,000 equals 350,000 divided by .35 equals 1,- 000,000 divide by 840 equals l-30s oot- tom warp. 16 pieces white filling x 2 equals ?2 inches equals .3 grains. 32x7,000 equals 224,000 divided by .3 equals 746,- ^66 divided by 840 equals l-21s cotton filling. Reed 1,460 —29 1-3 inrihes— 2 ends per dent; 16 ends selvedge, 10 per oent take-up; 2,376 ends, l-30s white cotton warp (ex. of selvedge); 59 picks, l-24s white cotton filling (soft spun); L_ 45s twill weave (warp effect on face); fin- ish equals very light nap on the back of the fabric or filling effect. 88 ends per inch finished and 61 picks per inch finished equals 81 ends in reed and 59 picks in loom. 88x27 equals 2,376 plus 16 equals 2,392 ends plus 10 per oent take-up equals 2,658 yards l-30s warp yarn equals 1.687 ounces. 64 picks x 27 equals 1,728 yards l-24s filling equals 1,371 ouncies. Total 3,058 ounces. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The processes of machinery for mak- ing the required count of yarns for flannelette may be found in either the better class of the first division or in the second division of mills, as given in a pre equals 484,615 divided by 36 equals 13,- 461.43 divided by 840 equals l-16s fill- ing. CONSTRUCTION. — ^ twill 45° 68 ends per inch finished and 42 picks per inch finished equals 63 ends in reed and 40 picks in loom. Reed 750 — 29 inches — 3 ends per dent. 10 per cent take-up — 32 ends selvedge. 40 picks, l-16s white cotton filling. 1,836 ends blue yarn and 32 ends white yarn selvedge equals l-9s cotton warp. 1,836 + 32 equals 1,868 + 10 per cent take = 2,076 yards 1-9 warp = 4.39 ozs. 42 picks X 27 Inches = 1,134 yards 1-16 filling = 1.35 ozs. 5.74 ozs. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Denim is constructed of yarns tliat are made in either the first or second divisions of mills as given in a pre- vious lesson. In the second divison of mills the raw stock would be run through a bale breaker, as this class of mills would undoubtedly contain this machine in their equipment. In the first division of mills the mixing would be done by hand. When bale breakers are used, it is of great ad- vantage to have a blower in conniection with them. This blower is generally placed at the delivery end of the ma- chine and blows the cotton, after it has passed through the bale breaker, throug'h trunking onto an endless lat- tice which deposits it in the mixing bins. A blower is of advantage be- cause it opens the cotton and tlie cur- rent of air helps to dry it and the cot- ton does not have to dry out in th« 78 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. mixing bins as is the case when a blow- er is not used. Mixing is A VERY IMPORTANT PART of the card room and too little atten- tion is generally given to it. it will be understood that if the cotton is not properly mixed, this defect cannot be remedied at any subsequenit machine. Coitton of the same length of staple should always be used, cotton of the siame nature, and where waste is used the peroentage should be as small as it is possible to make it. The same mixing may be used for making of both the warp and filling yarns, a medium to low grade being used of a staple length of about one inch (ranging from % to 1% inches, according to the quality of denim being made). A small percentage of coniber waste miay be used, but is not advisable. The good sliver waste from the cards and draw- ing frames is mixed with the Taw stock and the roving waste is mixed in the manner described in a previous article. The cotton would be put through two processes of picking and an opener. Keep the hopper of the opener well filled with cotton so that the lifting apron will always be carrying up a full load of coitton to the pin roller. The SPEED OF THE BEATER of the opener should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute, the speed ot the fan being about 350 revolutions per minute. If porcupine beater is used, the speed should be about 1,150 revolu- tions per minute. The speed of a two- bladed beater of a rigid type of the breaker picker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the speed of the fan being about 100 revolutions less. The total weight of the lap at the head end should be about 40 pounds, or 20 ounces to the yard. The doublings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1 aiid the speed of the beater (2 bladed rigid type), 1,450 revolutions per minute, which will beat the cotton Sheet presented to it about 42 times per inch in length. The weiglit of tne lap in the front should be as heavy as possible and at the same time not over- work the card. A gO'Od weight would be 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap (for a 38 inch lap). The DRAFT OF THE CARD should not exceed 100 and should oe not less than 90. The sliver should weigh. 65 grains per yard and the pro- duction about 850 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Keep your card wire siharp and be sure that your top 'flats are ground even, because close and ac- curate settings cannot be obtained when the wire on the flats is not of a uniform length. Large doffers should also be used. The sliver would then be put through two processes of drawing frames, the speed of the front roll (1% inches diameter) being 400 revolutions per minute on each set. The drait should not be more than the doublings and the sliver should weigh about iO grains per yard. THE PRODUCTION being about 260 pounds per delivery per day of 10 hours. When metallic rolls are used, the prodi^ctdon would be con- siderably greater or about 350 under the conditions noted above. Metallic rolls are coming more and more into use, especially on the lower counts of yarns, and also on a heavy sHiver; al- though they can be used on all grades and lengths of staple, they are not gen- erally used, but not ithrough any fault of the rolls, as they are suitable for producing fine work. The slubber draws the silver into .55 hank and the one-process fly frames used makes the roving into a 1.75 hank roving. Some- tim'es two different hanks are made at the fly frame, one for the warp and one for the filling yarns; where this is the case, the warp yam is made from one hank roving and the filling from 2.00 hank. The particulars for the warp spinning frame for No. 9s are as follows: Front roll, one in. diameter; gauge of frame, 3 in.; diameter of ring, 2% in.; length of traverse, 7 in.; for a filling frame making I6s use gauge of frame, 2% in.; diameter of ring, 1% in.; length of traverse, 6l^ In. The warp yarn is then, spooled, warped and put through the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BLUE. 6 per oenit katigen indigo B; 6 per cent katigen indigo 5 G; 12 per cent sul- phide sodium; 4 per cent soda asih; 30 per cent salt; after treat with 1^^ per cent bichrome, 2 per cent copper sul- phate and 4 per cent acetic acid. Rinse well and soap. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 4 per cent soda ash. Rinse well and soap. BROWN. 6 per cent thion brown G; 6 per cent thion brown B; 2 per cent ithion yel- low R; 14 per cent sulphide siodium; 4 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 79 per cent soda asih.; 30 per cent salt; after treat 3 per cent biclirome, 3 per oemt sulphate coppeir; 5 per cent acetic acid. Rinse well and soap. SLATE. 5 per cent pyrogene black B; 5 per cent so'diium sulphide^ 2 per cent soda a;sli; 20 per cent salt. Rinse well and soap. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent imimedial green G; % per oemt immedial black N B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Rinse well and soap. RED. 8 per cent diamine fast red F; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda crystals. Rinse and after treat 2 per cent fluoride chrome at 160 degrees P. BODRRETTE, Bourrette is a light weight, single cloth fabric, weighing from 4^/^ to 6 ounces, composed of two-ply cotton warp, and either wooJ. merino or a combination of ooitton and. wool shod- dy filling. Both the warp and the fill- ing have an occasional end or pick of fancy bourrette or nub yarn added for effect; hence the name. In appearance bourrette cloth is a semi-rough-faced woolen fabric, hav- ing small fancy colored lumps on the yarn, scattered throughout the g'oods in accordance with the effect desired. The cloth when finished is used princi- pally in the manufacture of ladies' fall suitings. THE WEAVE Is usually a — 5 plain weave.or a mixed twill effect, such as can be produced from the regular '—^ 45 degrees twill, viz.: diamond or entwining twill weaves. These weaves, in connection with certain warp and filling patterns, such as ] black, 1 fancy twist or 2 black, 2 fancy twist, create very elab- orate styles, as this color arrangement serves to hide the rigid outline of the design, and thus has a tendency to complicate the general appearance of the weave used in the fabric. The fancy effects in twist that can be adapted to this line are made by twisting the following coIots together, viz.: Black and white. Black and lig-ht blue. Black and light green. Black and old gold. Black and red. Black and lighit brown. These twist yarns serve the purpose of brightening up the general app'ear- ance of the goods. Bourrette cloth can be woven in any power loom, excepting those styles GBHDDaanBaaBaoDa DDHBDuBaDDBaDaBa BaaBBDDaaaaaaaaa BBanaBDDBBDaaBGa DBBDDBBDBaDflaaaa DDBaunaBaDBBDCBB BODBBaaBaBBCiDBBa BBanBBUDBBDDBBDa aaBBDDBBOOBBODBB DBBaaBBaBDDBBDaB BBaDBBDDBBDaBBDa flQDBBnDBDBBDDBBn DDBBDDBBaaBBaaBB DBBDDBBDBaDBBDDB BBDaBBaDBHaaBBDa aBDflnBDB BnDBBaDBDBBDDBBa BDBDBDBO Desiro QBDBDBnB ue3,ga BaBDBDBa nDnBDDDBDnBnnnBa □bdbdbdb DDBDDaBDDDDBnnnB BaBDBDBa DBDDDBDDBDDDKaDD DBaBDBaB ■aDDBDaDDBDDDBDa BOBaBaBO Drawiug-in Draft Design aBGBaBGBDBGBDBDB DBDBDBDB BaBDBDBDBaBDBDBa BDBDBDBG Reed Plan Drawine-in DBBD aaBB BDaa aaaa DBB :i DDBB BDDB aaaa □aaa aaaa aaaa BDDB DGBB Harness Chain Dralt DBDBDBDB laaDBDBa Reed Plan wherein a single pick of the fancy yarn is introduced in the filling, in which case the Knowles 4x4 pick and pick, dobby loom is very serviceable. TO FINISH THIS FABRIC, the goods are taken from the loom and measured, after w'hich they are brushed then scoured in a solution of soap and cold water, then tentered and dried and pressed. The bourrette yam is made by twist- ing two cotton threads and a worsted thread together, the worsted being al- lowed to deliver more quickly than the cotton threads, art regular intervals. The excess which is delivereid is twisted around the cotton threads in the one place, thereby forming a lump on the twisted yarn, as the worsted yarn is run at a varied speed, and is not regularly distributed around the cotton threads. CONSTRUCTION. 4 square inches equals 7.61 grains. 33x36 equals 1,188 times 7.61 equals 80 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 904,06S divided by 4 equals 2,260.17 divided by 437.5 equals 5.11 ounces, 33 inches wide from loom. 23 pieces black warp times 2 equals 4G inches equals 1.41 grains. 46x7,000 equals 322,000 divided by 1.41 equals 228,368 divided by 36 equals 6,343.5 divided by 840 equals 2-14s. 22 pieces twist warp times 2i/^ equals 55 inches equals 2 grains. 55x7,000 equals 385,000 divided by 2 equals 178,804 divided by 36 equals 5,216.S divided by 840 equals 2-12s. 30 pieces black merino filling times 2 equals 60 inches equals 3 grains. 60x7.000 equals 420.000 divided by 3 equals 140,000 divided by 36 eauals 3,8S8 divided by 300 equals l-12s cut. 10 per cemt up. Reed, 400 minus 1 end per dent minus 36 inches wide, including selvedge of 16 ends 2-14s black, 24 picks, 1-12 cut merino equals 75 per cent wiool and 25 per cent cotton. Warp pattern: 1 black 'equals 2-14s cotton; 1 twist equals 2-12s cotton. 24 pick.s timeis 30 equals 864 yards 1-12 merino equals 3.S4 ounces. 192 ends black plus 16 equals 208 plus 10 per cent take-up equals 231 yards 2-14s equals 6. 28 ounces; 192 euds twist plus 10 per cent take-up equals 213 yards 2-12s equal .676 ounces, total, 5.144 ounces per yard loom. Finish — Scour, tenteT and steam press, to loom width. Carding and Spinning Particulars. In the class of goods under descrip- tion it will be noticed that there Is a very small percentage of cotton con- tained in Its make up. If the cotton yarn that this class of goods contains was made in a cotton mill, the follow- ing particulars would be a good foun- dation on which to base the speeds, weight and processes throug'h which the raw stock would have to pass be- fore being turned out into 2-ply 12s or 2-14s yarn, as the case may be. This class of yarn may be made in the first divisioiu of mills, and the cotton would be hand mixed and put in the bins. The mixing should be allowed to dry out as much as possible .before using, and a better plan would be to have two \8jrge mixing bins so that when one was in use the other one might be filled and the cotton dried. This is not always done, because most picker rooms are pressed fo/r floor space. THE RAW STOCK should be put through two processes of picking and an opener. The good waste from pickers, cards and draw- ing frames should be put into the mix- ing bin before running it throug'h the opener. Always keep the hoipper of the opener mo^re than half full and gauge your stripping roller so that quite a heavy weiig^ht of cotton is passed to the action of the beater. The speed of the beater for the opener should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute, the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- tions per minute. This machine is used in connection with the brealier picker and the speed of the beater (2 bladed rigid type) should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 20 ounce lap to the yard. The laps from the break- er picker are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the beater at this machine should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives about 42 blows per inch of cotton fed. The WEIGHT OF THE DAP shoTild be about 40 pounds or a 14'':'^ ounce lap. Care should be taken to see that Ihe variation in the total weight of the laps delivered at the front of the finisher picker is not more than three-quarters of a pound from stand- ard weight for raw stock to mako goode under desor'ipition,and the amount of variation for the finer olapses of goods should not exceed one-half a pound from standard. When laps are found to vary more than above noted, they sihould be placed at the back of the finisher picker and run over. If a great degree of variation is found, i. e., if the standard is 40 lbs., and laps are delivered which weigh S9%, 41, 39, 40%, and so on, it shows that the picker needs adjustment, and on all makes of machines there are devices to regulate these small variations. The laps are put up at the card and the draft of this machine should not ex- ceed 100. THE WIRE FILLET should be coarser, so as to stand the pressure of the weight and amount of cotton to be passed through. This Wire should be kept sharp by fre- quent grindings with the grinding rol- lers. The weight of the sliver should be about 65 grains to the yard and the production of a card for 60 hours on this class of goo'ds should be not less than 850 pounds. The cotton is put through two processes of drawing. The speed of the front roller in each case should be 400 revoHutions per minute. On this grade of cotton it would be of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 81 great advantage if metallic roils were used. The weigli't of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing frame should be about 70 gTains tO' the yard. The sliver at the drawing frames should be weighed about three times a day to see that it is the proper weiight. The slubbea- roving sihould weigb about .51) hanlv. Only one process of fly framies is used and the hank at this should be abO'Ut 1.50. The roving is then carried to THE SPINNING ROOM, when it is spun to the required count yarn. The particulars to spin 12s on a warp frame are as follows: gauge of frame three (inches; diamelter of ring, 'Zy^ inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; twist per inch, 16.45; speeld of spindle, 9,000 revolutions per minute. The same particulars may be used for making 14s yarn with the following exceptions, that somewhat different particulars are required for the spin- ning frame. The warp yarn is theii. spooleid and taj^en to the twister when it is made into 2-plj' or 2-14s as the case may be, after which it is sized aJt the' slasiher. Dyeing Particulars. BLACK. 10 per cent immedial brilliant black B, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. For the threads of colored yarn which are mixed with the black and white, fast sulphur colors are dyed. For vmion yarn a one-dip aniline union black is generally dyed. LIGHT BLUE. 10 per cent pyrogene indigo, 20 per cent sulphide sodium, 10 per cent sioda ash, 35 per cent salt, 3 pints mineral oil. LIGHT GREEN. 8 per cent pyrogene green G, 16 per cent sulphide sodium, 6 per cent soda asih, 30 per cent salt. OLD GOLD. 4 p'er cent pyrol bronze, 2 per cent pyrol yellow, 6 per cent sulphide sodi- um, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red, 3 per cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. OLIVE. 4 per cent immedial oli\'e 3G, 1 per cent immedial cutch 0, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, 5 per cent sulphide sodium. FANCY SHIRTING. Fancy shirting is a light-weight, single cloth wash fabric, weighing from two to three ounces per yard, and composed of regular, single, cot- ton yarns, l-26s to l-40s in warp and filling. It is made in simple stripe patterns either printed on the woven, bleached BGBGBGBG GBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG GBGBGBGB BBGGBBGG GGBBGGBB BGVGBGBG GBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG GGBBGGBB BBGGBBGG GBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG GBGBGBGB BDBGBGBG GBGBGBGB ■GaGBGBD GBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG GBGBGBGB BGBGBGBG 1 BGBGBGB BGBGBGBG Weave Weave GGGGGBCGOBGaGGG GGGGBGnGGGBGGGG GBaBGGnBGGGBGBa BaBaGGBrDBGaGBOB Draft GCGBGaca GGBGG BG DBGGGBGG BGD-BGDG Drawing- in- draft GGBBGGBBBGGBBGG BBGGBBGGGBBGGBB Reed GGBBGGBB BBGGBBGG Reed Plan Idea for fancy weave LIGHT BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per fabric, or of fast colors, dyed upon the warp. Combinations of each are sometimes formed to create attrac- tive styleis. THE WEAVE used is either the plain i-_ or this combined with a fancy rib or basket weave. Fancy shirting is made to retail at 8 to 121/^ cents per yard, and is used in men's outing and working shirts, ladies' and children's waists, blouses and summer suits. It is from the con- sumer's standpoint a practically inex- pensive material, w'hich, when the gar- ment becomes soiled, can become a part of the family wash and be readily renovated. Those grades in which the plain weave alone is used are best adapted to the plain single box roller room. The fancy styles,in which a more elab- orate weave effect is desired, require a loom having a dobby or witch top attached. The Knowles 1x1 loom, hav- 82 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ing a Stafford dobby top, is very pop- ular for this sityle of cloth. THE FAST WARP COLORS, generally used in connection with the bleached or white yarns to create a range of patterns for this fabric, are: Dark blue, dark green, black, red, lavender, pink, ecru, tan, light green, light blue and violet. FINISHING. • To finish this fabric the goods are taken from the loom and run through the washer, after which they are very lightly sized, then dried by the pro'cess of tentering (this also prevents undue Sihrinkage in width). After drying run through the calender to press out wrinkles.also to bring up a clear, even face. Then the goods are ready to lap and fold in readiness for the shipper. CONSTRUCTION. 4 squaire inches equals 4.18 grains. 27x36 equals 972x4.18 equals 4,062. S5 divided by 4 equals 1,015.74 divided by 437.5 equals 2.319 ounces per yard, 27 inches wide. 12 pieces blue warp times 1% equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 18x7,000 equals 126,000 divided by .11? equals 787,500 divided by 36 eqiials 21,- 878 divided by 840 equals l-2os blue warp yarn (cotton). 12 pieces white warp times V/2 equals 18 inches equals .16 grains. 18x7,000 equals 126,000 divided by .16 equals 787,500 divided by 36 equals 27,- 878 divided by 840 equals l-26s white warp yarn (cotton). 19 pieces white filling times 2 equals 38 inches equals .25 grains. 19x7,000 equals 266,000 divided by .23 equals 1,064,000 divided by 36 equals 29,833 divided by 804 equals l-36s white filling yam (cotton). 27 inches finished. Reed, 1,150 minus 29 inches minus 2 ends per dent; 54 picks minus l-3Gs white cotton filling; l-26s cotton warp; 10 per cent take-up; 1,858 ends in warp plus 32 white selvedge. WARP PATTEiRN. 7 times. 3 white. *1 light blue 3 White. 1 lig-ht blue. 3 white. 2 white in 1 heddle. 8 light b'lue. 2 white in 1 heddle. 47 ends per pattern, 39 repeats of pattern plus 25 ends. Start at *. 16 blue ends per pattern tim-es 39 repeats equals 624 plus 7 equals 63.1 blue ends. 31 white ends per pattern times 3^ repeats equals 1,209 plus 18 plus 32 ends selvedge equals 1,250 white ends. 631 blue ends l-26s plus 10 per cent equals 701 yards equals .513 ounces; 1.250 white ends l-26s plus 10 per cent equals 1,388 yards equals 1.001 ounces; 54 picks times 29 l-36s filling equals 1,- 5r'6 yards equals .828 ounces; total, 2.- 342 ounces. Finish, wash, size, eailender. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The fabric known as fancy shirting is made up of yarns, the counts of which vary from 20s to 60s, according to the mills making them, and also according to the grade being mado. For the particulars that will be de- scribed below we will consider that the shirtings are made up of l-26swarp and l-40s filling. It is not customary for both , yarns to be made out of the same length of staple or grade of cotton, al- thouigli in some instances this may be done. For the 40s yarn a good grade of raw stock of about 11^4 to 1% inches stock should be used and for the 20s yarn a cotton of about 1 1-16 to 1 3-16 inch staple may be used with advan- tage. The raw stock in both cases should be put through the bale break- er and deposited in their different bins, being allowed to stand as long as possible before using. This is for the purpose of drying out the cotton as it is easier to work when in this condition. An opener and two proc- esses of picking are g'enerally used, although it is the custom in many mills to use three processes. When the latter is the case.the particulars given for the finisher picker miay be used, ex- cept that the speed of the fan is not so great, also that the laps are of a lit- tle lighter weight. The hbpper of the opener should be kept well filled so that an even amount of cotton will be always fed to the feed roll of the breaker picker. The speed of the beat- er (2 bladed rigid type) should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute; the fan, about 350 revolutions per minute. The speed of the beater of the breaker should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute and for the fi.nis'her picker 1,- 450 revolutions per minute. This gives tUe cotton passing through about 42 beats per inch. The weight of lap at the breaker picker is 40 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. At the finisher (and intermediate picker if used) the doublings are four into one. The rov- ing cut waste is mixed at the back of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 83 tlie finisher picker in the usual man- ner. The weight of the laps at >tlhfe de- livery end of the finisher picker is 35 pounds for the longer stapled cotton and 39 pounds for the shorter.or a 12i/£. ounce lap for the filling yarn and a liVz ounce lap for the warp yarn. The cards are set about the same in both cases, except where they are required to be set according to the length of staple. The draft of the card sihould not exceed 100 for the warp yam and should not be less than 100 for the fill- ing yarn. As large a doffer as possi- ble should be used with both stocks, and the weight of the sliver should be about 65 grains. The production would be 750 pounds per week of 60 hours for the filling cotton and 850 pounds for the warp yarn. Always keep the wire sharp and never under any circum- stances allow it to become dull. Grind cylinder and doffer wire at least once a month for half a day and grind top flats twice a month with "dead roll- er." Strip cards three times a day, both cylinder and doffer. Some a\'"er- seers strip cylinders twice and doffers three or four times. This, they claim, saves time as the doffer maybe stripped while running and the sliver is not as uneven as when both doffer and cylinder are stripped at the same time. In the mills making fine yarns it is the general custom to strip three times a day. Three processes of drawing are used for both warp and filling. The only difference made in these machines is that the rolls are spread differently for the different lengths of staple. The weight of the sliver should be about 70 grains in both cases. The slubber makes this sliver into 50 hank roving, the standard twist being ohtaJined by multiplying the square of the hank roving by the con- stant 1. On the finer classes and long stapled cotton the fronx top rolls of the slubber are varnished, but this class of goods does not require this to be done. The roving for the warp yarns is put thro'Ugh two processes of fly frames, the hank at the first inter- mediate being 1.50 and at the second intermediate 3. The filling roving is put through two prooesses of fiy frames, the hank roving at the first intermediate being 2, and at the sec- ond intermediate 5. The twist stand- ard is obtained by multiplying the square root of the hank by 1.1 for both cottons. Take special care of your top rolls to see that they are in peirfect condition and not channeled, cut, un- even, oil soaked, dry at the bearings. loose or unevenly weighted. Look out for the settings of all fly frame rolls. The roving is carried to the spinning room, where it is drawn into the re- quired count. For 26s count warp yara a frame with the folloiw'ing particulars may be used: Gauge of frame 2?.t Inches, diameter of ring 1% inches, length of traverse 6% Inches, twist per inch 24 plus, speed of spindle 9,700 rev- olutions per minute. For a filling making 40s, the particulars ha^ e been given in a previous lesson. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. DARK BLUE. 5 per cent immedial blue C, 5 per cent immeidial blue C R, 1 per cent im- medial black N N, 10 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. DARK GREEN. 15 per dent thiogene green B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. 15 per cent melanogen black G, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda asih, 30 per dent Glauber's. RED. 6 per cent primuline, diazotized and developed with Beta naphthol. LAVENDER. % per cent diainlne blue, 3 R pat., after treated with % per cent sulphate of copper at 160 degrees F. PINK. ^2 per cent diamine rose B D, 30 per cent Glauber's, ?> per cent sal soda. ECRU. 2 per C'ent katigen yellow brown G G, 2 per cent sodium suiphide, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent soda ash. TAN. 5 per cent thion brown G, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 2 per cent soda ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. LIGHT GREEN on a tanjiin and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye % per cent thioflavine T, ^ per cent niew methylene blue G G. LIGHT BLUE. 2 per cent im.medial sky blue, 2 pen cent sodium sulphide, 2 per ceat soda ash, 20 per cent Glauber's. VIOLET. 1 per cent diamine blue 3 R pat., af- ter treated with % per cent sulphate of copper at 160 degrees F. COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. TAPE. Tape is a very narrow fabric, com- lioaed of either cotton or linen yarns in warp and lilling, and usually made with a point or broken twill \\'eave, the break in the weave occurring in the centre cf the tape, and the twill lines ramning in a right and left hand direction. It is made of all bleached yarns. It is made of regular yarns about l-26s to 1-303 and l-40s cotton and is used as a trimming, in the manufacture of clothing, also used as a binding in innumerable cases, such as paper boxes, otc, and is sold by the roll, each roll containing a cePtain number of yards, A fair grade of tape weighs about 20 yards per pound. This fabric is woven in a broad loom having a light dobby head motion at- tached, similar to that which is used on a hair cloth loom. the aforesaid rod in >nica a position that the rod in moving causes the sai.1 ittiachment to move thi .shuttle from one box to the other in the same di- '.'oclion as the rod is taking. Tape requires as a finish, washing and drying on the cylinder,after which it is wound into rolls and is ready to pack and ship. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,650 minus % inches width In reed, 59 ends, 46 picks, :i_ point twill, SO ends minus 29 ends left. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn used to make tape vary from 20s to 40s, according to the grade of tape required. In this article we will consider the warp yarn to be 1-36S and the filling l-40s. Theeo counts of yarn would be made in the second division of mills as priven in a previous lesson. For this fabric the yarn would be made out of aaaBaDaanaBHDaBanaaaoDBBnaaaDnBDDaBDDBBDDBaDDHDDBaaDHaDH DBBaDBaDDaBDaaaacBBauBBDDBBDDaflaGDBBDoaBDoaBDaaaaDaBDDBaaaa BBDaBBaaaBDaBBDaBaaDaBDaBBGaaBOBaaaBaaaaBaDaaaDBaaaaaaaBBna aDDBBDDaBaDBaGaaBnaaaDaaaDaBaaDaBaaaaBauaBDDaBDDflBDaaBaaaan aDBBaDBBaDBBaDBBGDBBaDBBaDBBaaBnaBBDDBBaDBBaDBBDDBBnaBBaDBB nBBGGBBGGBBDGBBaGBBGDrBGGBBDDBBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBDGBBGGBBGGB BBGGBBGGaaGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGBBGDBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGG BGGBBGGBBGGaBGGBBGGBBGGaBGaBBaGGBBGGaBGGaBGGBaGGaBGGBBGGBBG Design. nnGBaaDBGDa«aaGBanaBaGn«aanBaaaaGBaaG«GGaBGgaBag-;Bgaq«gpq«g GGBGGGBaGGBaGGBaGGBaaGBDGGBanGBGrGBGGGBGG BGgGBgggBgggBQqqB GBDaQBaGGBGG-lBanGBGGGB-'a^BGGGBGBGGGBaaGBaGGBDGGBGaGBGGgBgag BQQGBaaGBGGaBGGGBGGGBGGGBGGGBaGaBGGGBGaGBaGGBDGGBGCaBGGGB^G Drawing-in draft. rjaBBaaBBaaBBGGBBaaBBGnBBGGBBaGaBBGGBBGDBBGGBBGDBBaaBBaaBBga BBGGBBGGBBGGBBDGBBDGBBGGBBGGBBBGGBBGaBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBBGGBs Reed plan. DDBB GBBG BBGG BGGB DGBB GBBG BBGG BGGB Weave In weaving this fabric, the loom is arranged to produce several rolls at the same operation, it being very nar- row. There are perhaps 20 rolls all weaving at once, as the warp yarn for each roll is beamed upon a small spool, thereby acting independently of every Other roll on the same loom. The warps are all drawn through the same harness or heddles, which are worked from the dobby motion. The peiouliar and imporiant part of a tape loom is the filling arrangement or shuttle motion. Being a one shuttle fabric, ©aoh warp has its separate shuttle, all the shut- tles being operated at the same time, and by one motion. The shuttle, in traveling from one box to its mate, de- scribes a half moon movement, and this is accomplished by a sliding rod beneath the race board, and so set that at eacih pick of the loom the rod moves from left to right and on the next pick right to left, and for each piece of tape being woven there must neces- sarily be a shuttle, and for each shut- tle there is an attachment placed on a medium grade cotton of from 1 to 11/4 inches in length. The bales of raw stock would be brought to the mix- ing room and stapled and those bales of the same length of sitaple w-ould be opened and run through a bale break- er (if the mill contained one, or through a willow, or it may be mixed by band) and passed by suitable means to THE MIXING BIN. rt should be allowed to stand here as long as possible, so that the cotton may be opened up to the air, which dries It, and makes it easier to work than when it is not allowed to stand in the bins. At this poinit the good waste from the pickers, cards and drawing frames should also be mixed in with the raw stock. The cotton is then put through an opener and either two or three processes of picking, gen- erally two. If three processes of pick- ing are used, the intermediate process presents almost the same particulara as the finisher picker. In this la- stance, we will consider that only A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 85 TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING are used. The hopper should be kept as nearly full as possible, so that an even lap may be made. The cotton is feid to the feed rolls of the breaker pickeir and after passing ooimes under the action of the beater which, if it is a rigid two-bladed type, should make abouit 1,450 revolutiO'ns per minute, the speed of the fan bedng about 1,050 revo- lutiaiiiS per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The doub- lings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1. The speed of the fan should be abo'ut 1,450 revolutions per minute, and the fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton sheet about 42 beats per inch fed. Watch your drafts. The weight of the lap at the front should be aboiit 39 pounds or a 14% ounce lap. Whten roving- waste is mixed with the raw stock, it should first be put through A SPECIAL PROCESS to take out the twist, and through a breaker picker to make laps, and thesg laps are put up behind the finisher picker. These laps are mixed with the raw sitock in a proportion of one lap roving waste to three laps of raw stock. The laps are put up at the card, the draft of wihich should not be less than 100. In speaking of cards v/e refer to the so-called English card and not the American card. The wire fillet of this card should be about No. 34 wire on cylinder and No. a5 wire on dofPer and flats. This is equiv- alent to 110s and 120s, English count, and gives 79,200 points per square inch for cylinder and 86,400 points per square inch for dofter and top flats. Grind the wire so as to keep it siharp and strip three times a day. THE SLIVER at the front of the card should weigh about 65 grains per yard and a pro- duotion of 800 pounds Should be turned off for a week of 60 hours. Use as large a doffer as possible, either a 26 or 27 inch one. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing frames, doubling siix into one, the speed of the front roll being 400 revolutions per minute, and the weight of sliver at the finisher drawing 70 grains to the yard. Always keep a stock of freshly varnished rolls an hand, so that if those in the frames become worn or damaged in any Way they may be replaced at once. All the rolls should be varnished and changed at least once every two weeks. Drawing frames should be cleaned at least once a month. The SETTINGS OF THE DRAWING FR.A.ME ROLLS should be looked after frequently to see that they have not slipped. The sliver is then passed to the slubber which draws and twists it into .50 hank roving. Waitch your leather cov- ered rolls to see that they are perfe<5t. The roving is then put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at the first intermediate being 1.50 and at the second 3.50 hank and at the jack, 9. to 9.50 for both counts of yarn, the doublings being two into one in every cascL Use the standard multipli- er for twist previously given. The roving is th'en taken to the spinning room and made into the required count. The particulars for a warp yarn of 36s count are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches: diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6V^ inches; speed of spindle, 10,200 revolu- tions per minute. MERCERIZED VESTING. Mercerized vesting is either a light or heavy -weight cotton wash fabric weighing froim 5 to 8 ounces per yard, finished, and is made of one, two or three warps and one or two fillings. When made of one warp and filling, a light weight can be produced in case the warp and filling are both mercer- ized j'arns. Tlie warp for the face of the cloth ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized cotton, and the filling from 1-lOs to 1-16 s cotton. The styles range from granite and basket weave effe'Ots in solid wliiite, to the more eliaborate figured patterns, such as are created by forming spots on the face of the clotih, from warp ef- fect diamond, cross and curved twill weaves, so arranged as to scatter the design in regular formation, in imita- tion of jacquard designs. ADDING WEIGHT. The extra back warp is for the pur- pose of adding weight to tihie fabric, also permiitting greater scope in face ■p eave effects, the idea being to so ar- range t!he face weave as to tlhorouigTily cover the coarse filling, the back warp binding the filling into the cloth, un- der the figure floats of the face weave. In making a vesiting having a back warp, always use a two-ply yarn for this warp, as a single yarn will bead 86 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. in the weaving, wMch means a loss of time e'Very few hours . in removing same, and "the varp will not shed prop- erly when the yarn is beaded, which on the cloth. The beads may then be eiither cut off, or drawn throiugh the reed. If the latter method is used, the betads form a line of small lumps upon irr-rr'rY'ccc — ^"^ — " !■ ■»■ «M bBi^mm MB ■■■ ■§■ ■« ■■■■mia ■■» wm»»wi^ iwi ■■■ ■■■■■■ ■■■_■■«_■■■_■■■■■■_■«■■■•■■■■_«■■*■>»'« iielBBffai SS ■■■■■ ■■■■■■ ■■■' MB. ■■■ ■■■' ■•« ■■■■■■■^■•■^■■■■■■a BBB BBB bSb BBB ■BB^BBB^bSb^BBB^BBB^BBB WBB^BBB^BBB, bSb^B :K^»i^H^H^BB^H"BB.^.B.-B..^B.■BBB^BB^..^BB^BB^ :r^')« bSb bBb .:b .s. .s. .u bSb -Sb b8._.s. i^s. b5b_bS._bSb B BBB BBBBBBBBB BBB aBBBBBBBB_BBB_BBB._BBB BBB_BBB_BBB • BB BBBBBBB BBB BBB BBB BBB BBB, BBB.'BBB^B SSfi^BBB BBB^aaaa«aa\BB'BBBBBBB^BSB BBB bbb^bIb b8b bSb^BBBJI nriMBBBB*BBa"aiiBaaa*'aaK"BnMM*Baa aa* bbb bbb bbb aaB^BB h*^*3Hff aaa aaa aaa bbh bbb bbb bSb aSa bSb_bbb_Bbb_bbb_bbb_bbb niBsis. .ia .:. .s. .:. aS. .i. .Sb BSaaia.B!. bL bSb_.!b a ■■ ■■■ aaa aaa bbb bbb «bb bbb bbb bbb bbb bbb_bbb_b bbSBbbb* a'a'a' a ■■'■*■_■_ i^lAAhArimVZmzhj:'ZAh^h.rnsb2z'zn\abz; Harness Chain. causeis the reed to cuit %'e yarn. The quickest way to remove the beads from the yarn in the shed is to loosen the top of the reed cap, and lay the reed up- the face of the cloth, from one selvedge to the other. While this in itself is not a serious imperfection, it means that the ctoth must be cut at this point A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 87 to remove the liiinps, which to a cer- tain extent destroys the utility of the piece in manufacturing the garments. EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. This fabric can be woven on either the dobby or jacquard loom. Most of the popular imported jacquard effects oan be imitated successfully on the dobby loom, having edther single or double box filling motion. It is best adapted to the Knoiwleis Gem Harness loom, or the Fairmount, 4x1, bos loom, having the IngTaham head mo- tion attached. To finish this fabric, the oloth goes froim the looim to the measuring ma- chine, after which it is scoured, dur- ing which operatioin the goods are run through a solution of soiap and cold water to remove all stains such as mill dirt and grease spots. After washing it is calendered or pressed, and each piece is folded and doubled up in heavy paper and tied with a cheap tape. It is then ready to pack and ship. A style having great vogue in the spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, pro- duced by using an all white mercerized warp, and black mercerized filling, the ground weave being 1 up, 1 down and the' figure, smaJll, double-headed tri- angles. Reed, 700 minus 30 inches in reed 4 «nds per dent in reed; 2-20s w'hite mer- cerized warp, 2-20s black mercerized filling; 48 picks. Weight about IV2 ounces. CONSTRUCTION. 62 ends face finished, 31 ends back finished, equals 93. 1 square inch equals 3 grains; 60 picks finished; 29x36 equals 1,044x3 ©qiuals 3,132 divided toy 1 equals 3,132 divided by 437.5 equals 7.16 ounces per yard. ^ face ends, back ends. 30 inches in reed including 'S!8lveidge;; 29 inches finished. Scour and calender. 16 piieces mercerized face yarn times 3 inches equals 48x7,000 equals 336,000 divided by .95 grains equals 353,684 divided by 36 equals 9,824.5 divided by SiO equals 11.69 or 2-20s mercerized yam. 8 pieces back yarn times 2 equals 16 x7,000 equals 112,000 divided by .18 equals 62,444 divided by 36 equals 17,- 345.5 divided by 840 equals 20.64 or 2-40s back warp yarn. 17 pieces filling yarn times 2 equals 34x7,000 equals 238,000 divided by .7 •equals 340,000 divided by 36 equals 9,- 444 divided by 840 equals 11.24 or l-12s filling yarn. 3 pieces fancy color (spot) yarn ti ^-es 3 equals 9x7,000 equals 63,000 divilpd by .1 equals 630,000 divided by 36 equals 17,500 divided by 840 equals Reed Plan. Dra wing-in Draft. 20.8 or 2-40S extra warp (for figuring) yarn. 30 inches in reed, 30 dents per inch in reed, 900 minus 10 splits equals 890 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. splits, 40 ends 2-40s cotton selvedge, 7G ends in repeat of pattern equals 2o repeats plus 32 ends. 1,780 ends 2-20s mercerized face ends, 890 ends 2-40s cotton back ends, 40 ends 2-40S cotton selvedge ends, 91 ends 2-40-s cotton colored ends, equals 900 splits or 30 incheiS in reed. 3 1-3 per cent oomtractlou in widtti in weaving, 5 • per Cent take-up, 6 2-3 per cent shrinkage in length, in finish- ing. 1,780 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 1,873.7 yards, 2.20s mercerized equals 3.568 ounces, 890 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 936.8 yards 2-40s cotton equals .892 ounces, 94 ends equals 94 yards 2-40s cotton equals .009 ofunees, 40 ends plus 5 per cent take-up equals 421 yajrds 2-40'S cotton equals .94 ounces:, 56 enids 1-1 2.s fillinig times 30 inches equals 1,680 yards l-12s cotton equals 2.666 ounces; total, 7.175 ounces finished. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn required to mianiufaicture tihe fabric umder descrip- tion woiudd he made in the third or possibly in the se'cond diivision of mills', ajs; given in a previous lession. It will be umderstood that a great miany grades of fancy vestings are made anid that the range of the counts of the yarns is also varied. For this article we- will consider that the warp yam oounit i'& 2-60'S and thiat the filling ya.m is l&s count. The grade of cotton used for the finer oofunit ishould be good^ and the' leagth of the staple abo'ut 1% inches, al- though cottion from 1% to 1% inches may ibe usiedi. For the coarser yarn a cotton with the staple of 1 inch may be used. The tMi-o different cottons wiO'Uld be TREATED ALIKE up to a certain point and unless other- wise note'd what is siaid may 'be ap- plied to both cottons. The' cotton raw stock sihould be firsit brought to the 'bale bre'aker and there stapled and grade'd by the overseer and all bale's not up to the prope'r standard laid aisiide. S-everal bales s'hould be opened and placed 'around the bale breaker and fed to this machine alter- nately; that is, first a section fro'm onie bale and then a section from another, until all the cotto'n is fed., and not one bale fed until it is all gone. By the first method a more even mixing is oibtained. Two proces'Sies oif picking amid an opiemer are generally used, and after allowi'nig the coJLon to .stand in the ibins as lO'Ug as possi'ble, wlhere the gO'Od sliver was'te from tihe cards, sliver lap and ribbon lap miaohinee, combs, drawing frames and islubber is. IMIXED WITH THE RAW STOCK, the cotton is fed to the hopper of the op'ener. This machine is really the first miachine ■ that evens the cotton so tlhat a certain weight of oott'on will be deli'vere'd for a certain length. In order to aCiCOimplisih this, 'the hop- per should be keipt as nearly full as possible so that the liftin'g apron will always be loaded. The spee'd of the beia)ter of this machine is about 1,050- revoluti'onis per minute, havimg a fan speed of 350 re'volutions per minute. Th.e ootlton is delivered from this mar chine to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. The speed 'Of a rigid two- bladed type of beater should be about 1,500 revoil'utionis per minute, tihe fan S'peedi being 1,400 revolutions' pel minnite. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP delivere'd at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap for the- finer counts and 20 ounces for the coarser counts. The laps are then put up 'at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that th'e cut roving waste 'is- mixed in, this- waste having gone thro'ugh a special process to take out the tlwist. Mix one lap of cut waste to thrc'e of raw S'tock laps. The S'peed of the ib eater for this: class 'Of goiods sh'ould mot ex- cee'd 1,450 re'VO'lutiO'US P'er minute with a fan speed of about 1,100 revo'lutions per minute. This class of goods should not receive more than 42 beats per inch, and for 'the longer staple cotton the beats pe'r inch should be droppe'd to 32 to 36. If the cotton receives to'o many beats it is apt to put neps in and if not beaten eno'ug'h, tihe dirt will not be taken out. The STANDARD WEIGHT of the finer yarn Lap sihould be about 35 pounds, or about 12 ounces per yard. The co'arser- yarn lap should weigh 39' pounds, or about 14 ounces per yard. The variation from the standard weight O'f laps should niot ^be more than one-half po'und either way and laps which vary more th'an thi'S ishould be run over. The laps are put up at tihe card and the draft for 'the finer count sihouild niot be less than 100 'and the coars'er one noit O'ver 100. Cl'O'se Sieit- tings shiould be used for the 60is yarn and siom'e overs'eerS' S'peed up the top' flats S'O 'that la greatea- amiounti of wast'e will be taken out. The sam'e wire- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 89 may be used for both counts, i. e., 34s (American numlbeir) fdr cyMmder amid 35 or 36s for top flats anid doffer. Use as large a doffea* las posisiible. In the longer sitaples S'ome o'ver&eeiris sloiw down the SPEED OF THE LICKBR-IN. They say that the speed of this part is too fast for long staples and it tends to put neps into the cotton. The weight of the sliver for the 60,s yarn sh'onld be iaboiut 50 grains, and for the 16s about 65 graiinis per yard. The production for the finer yam is^ 500 poiunids per week of 60 hours, and for the coars'er yam 65 grains per yard. Strip cards three times a day, aJl- tlhough some overseers strip the dof- fer fonr times. The isliver for the finer yarn is eomibeid and the coarser yarn goes direcit to the drawing frame. We will first follow the COURSE OF THE COTTON for the 60b yarn. It is first put through the sliver lap maohine, the doublings being 14 into 1, the weight of tihe lap being 300 grains per yard. Six of these laps are put up at the rib'bon lap machine, th^e weigthit of lap at front being 260 grains per yard. The laps are then put up at the coimber, the douib lings being generaiMiy siix toibo one, althousfli eight intO' one is some- times used. The speed of tihe comher should be about 90 nips per minute, draft 29. percentage of waste taken out 18. and the weight of the sliver aboiut 45 grains per yard. This sliver is then put thr0'Ug*li two proicesses of drawing, the doublings being 6 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing frames is 70 grains per yard. See that your drawing frames are well oiled, the top rolls be- ing oiled twice a day, but also see that no oil gets on the leather. See that all weights are properly adjusted and tne trumpet holes the right size, also tnat the stop motions are all ad- justed properly. The sliver is then passed to the slubber, where it is drawn into .50 hank roving. It then passes through THREE PROCESSES OF FLY FRAME, the hank roving at the first inter- mediate being 1.50, and the second 4.00 hank, and at the jack frame 13 hank. The sliver for 16s is put through three processes of drawing, the weight of sliver at the finisher drawing being 70 grains per yard, the hank roving at the slubber .50. This roving is only put through two processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing being made at the first about 1.50, at the second 4.00 hank. Tbe doub- lings in all cases are 2 into 1. Tne roving is passed to the RING SPINNING ROOM, when it is made into 60s count. The following particulars would be used for a frame spinning this counr: Gauge of spindles, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per minute of spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 34.68. For filling, either mule or ring frames may be used. If ring frames are used, use the follow par- ticulars: Gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1^4 indies; length of traverse, 6i/^ inches. The warp yarn is then twisted into 2-ply 60s at the twister, then spooled and then put into the warper, where it is warped on beams, and from here is passed to the slasher. Dyeing Particulars for Mercerized Vesting. Following are the dyeing particulars for mercerized vesting: Dyed mercerized yarn for spots. RED. Turkey red, or primuline red, primu- line red dyeing. 6 per cent primuline red, 30 per cent Glauber's; diazotized 1% pounds ni- trate soda, 5 pounds sulphuric acid de- veloped,two pounds Beta naphthol,well rinsed and soaped twice and rinsed in hot water. SKY BLUE. 5 per cent immedial sky blue, 5 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, and give a soap bath, rinse well and dry. NAVY BLUE. 8 per cent immedial dark blue B, 8 per cent sulphide soda, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse well, soap, and rinse in hot water, and dry. BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and soap as above Ijlue. DARK GREEN. 10 per cent katigen dark green 2B, 2 per cent katigen blue Black B, 2 per cent katig-en yellow GG, 14 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glau- 90 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ber's, 2 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as above. OLIVE. 8 per cent pyrogene olive G, 8 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per oenit Boda^ ash, 30 per cent Glauber's, rinse and soap as above. MAROON. 10 per cent immedial Bordeaux G, 10 per cent ©odium sulphide, 28 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as above. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black NN, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash, rinse and soap as above. JEAN. •Jean is a narrow, hard-faced cotton fabnic, weighing from 4 to 4% ounces per yard, and is usually made of a hard-twisited warp yarn, about l-20s cottom, and either a wool or a wool ■■DBBDHBDaaa ■DBBaBaaBBDB DBBDBBDBBaBB ■BDBBnBBDBaa BnaBaBBaBB^S □■aaaanaaDBB BaaaaDBaDBBD BDaaDBBDaaDB Wtavo nDBDnaaDBDca nBDDBDDBDnBn BDDBDDBDDBaa Drawing-in Draft aDBBDnBBDDBB BiBaaBBaaBBDD Reed Plan shoddy filling. The fabric is made with a, small, unevea-siided tv/ill weave, warp effect face, viz.: — j' 45° twill, the cloith being of a slate black color. Jean is used principally in the man- nfaoture of ready-to-wear trousers, re- tailing at 85 cents to $1 per pair, for workmen who perform hard, rough and dir'ty work, and who do not wear overalls. For this purpose it is the most serviceable fabric on the market, the garment when worn beiing popu- larly known as Kentucky .lean, which has this distinct advantage, that upon its becoming soiled, a good washing will readily cleanse and remove all dirty marks, and apparently toughen the cloth, although causing it to shrink somewhat. "KENTUCKY JEANS" are woirn by laborers, railroaders, moulders, machinists, loom fixers, general male mill help, etc., and with a small amount of care will wear well for two or three years. Jean is m^ade with one warp and one filling, and can be woven in any single box, roller loom, good results being obtained from the Fairmount or Bridesburg. The warp yarn is generally of a cheap grade of cotton, and receives about two extra turns of twist per inch, in excess of the required amount of twist in the regular yarn of a sim- ilar count. It is this fact which caus- es jean as a fabric to have such a hard feel. The filling is usually a mixture, con- taining about 40 per cent cotton and 60 per cent wool shoddy, the yarn be- ing spun on the woolen principle. The wool shoddy is made by Picker- ing and carding dark colored woolen rags, after which the cotton and shod- dy are made into a mixing of relative proportions and the lot run througih the mixing picker. The stock is then carded and spun, the yarn receiviUij suflicient filling twist, the result being a dark colored, lofty thread, a suitable filling for this fabric jean. The warp is dyed a rather grayish black, with cheap dry color, and the warp and filling colors combined in ,the weaving produce a fabric of a de- cidedly slate black appearance. Jean receives a dry finish, being brushed, sheared and pressed, after which it is rolled or lapped, then packed into oases, for shipment. CONSTRUCTION. Reed 800 — SO^/^ inches plus 2 ends per dent. 10 per cent take-up in weaving, 36 picks 1-20S cut wool shoddy, 1-20S cotton warp. Finish equals 27 inches. 44.4x301/2 equals 1,354 ends plus 10 per cent equals 1,480 yards 1-2 Os cotton warp equals 1.41 ounces. Warp, 36 picks times 30 1^ eqxials 1,098 yards, 1-20's cut wool shoddy equals 2.92 ounces filling. 1.41 ounces warp, 2.92 ounces filling, equals 4.33 ounces. 4.33 ounces weight, 27 inches wide. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarn used for this class of goods is constinicted by two entirely different systems. The filling is generally com- posed of a mixture of wool or wool shoddy and cotton. The filling yarn is therefore made in a woolen mill. It is understood that entirely different ma- chines are used, and the method of mixing is entirely different from that used in a cotton mill, although the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 91 names of the maeliinies in many in- ■stances are alike. The warp yarn is made of all cotton stock and is there- fore spun into yarn in a cotton mill, and belowwillbefoundthecarding and spinning particulars for making this count of yarn of jean fabric. Of course, these may and are deviated from in many miills, but not to any greiat extent. THE RAW STOCK generally used is of a low grade and about one inch in staple. This class of yarn is spun in mills of the first di- vision as given in a previous lesson and the mixing would be done by hand. The bales of cotton would be sampled and all those of the same length would be put intoi the mlxin© bin. For this class of goods a small percentage of comber waste is sometimes mixed with the raw stock and some mills use the card waste. The percentage is gener- ally small, however. The good waste from the pickers, cards and drawing frames is always used and mixed at this point. The raw stock is run through an opener and two processes of picking. The hopper should always be kept full. The speed of the beater should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, and the fan 350 revolutions per minute. The speed of the breaker picker beater is about 1,500 revolutions per minute, the fan speed being 1,400 revolutions per minute. THE WEIGHT OF LAP at the front of this machine is about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. The doubling at the finisher picker is four into one and the sipeed of the Taeater (two-bladed rigid type) 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it about 42 l)6ats per inch. The speed of the fan is aibout 1,100 revolutions per minute. The weight of the total lap is about 39 pounds, or 14% ounces to the yard. Cleian out from under the pickers fre- quently so that the fly will not collect -and be drawn back into the good clean cotton passing through. The draft of this picker should be about 2.75. The laps are- then put up -at THE CARD. This machine should not have a draft of more than 100. The doffer should be as large' as possible and the -wire fillet used should be No. 33 wire (American count) for cylinder and No. 34 for doffer and flats. The flats make one revolution about every 45 minutes. The cards should be stripped three times a day and ground once a month. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains to the yard, and the production for a week of 60 hours Should be between 950 and 1,000 pounds. This sliver is then run through TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. The settings used at one mill for this stock and staple are as follows: Front roll to second, 114, second tothird, 1^4. and third to back, 1^^ inches. The doublings at this machine are six into o^nie and the speed of the front roller 400 revolutions per minute. The draft at the finisher machine is about 5.75. The weight of the sliver should be about 75 grains per yard. The draw- ing sliver should be sized at least twice a day and four times would be much better. The sliver is then drawn into .50 hank roving by the slubber and three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: 1.50 at the first intermediate, 3.50 at the second, and 8.^0 at the jack frame. The usual care sihould be given to the roils, etc., and THE ROVING at the jack frame should be sized once a day. The roving is then put through a warp spinning frame, the particulars being as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of rings, two inches, length of traverse, seven inches. This yarn is hard twisted and receives about two complete turns more per inch than usually used for cloth yarn; that is, the regular twist per inch for this count is 21.24 turns per inch, but for this cloth is 23.24. The speed of the spindle is about 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is taken to the spoolers and spooled from the spools, is warped and put through the slasher. A good sizing is made as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato sitarch, 70 pounds; tallow, four pounds; turpen- tine, one pint. Dyeing Particulars. DARK SLATE. 2-^'^ pounds thion black G, 2% pounds sulphide sodium, one pound soda ash, 20 pounds salt. BLACK. 15 pounds thion black G, 15 pounds sulphide sodium, three pounds soda ash, 30 pounds salt. 92 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. CRETONNE. Cretonne is a light-weight single cloth, all cotton fabric, weighing from 2 to 5 ounces per yard, and composed of yaj-ns ranging from l-40s to l-20s in the warp and l-20s to^ l-7s in the fill- ing. It is usually wovem with either the plain weave — -, ^, twill 45 de- gree, or a fancy effect resembling a granite weave, such as is used as a foundation weave in dress goods. The fabric is woven with either an all bleached or gray cotton warp and fill- ing, the patterns being fancy stripes and all over floral effects printed in bright colors upo^n one side of the goods. This gives the printed or face side of the fabric somewhat of the appear- ance of an elaborately figured jac- quard design. Those colors found most effective for this purpose are bright aOBDDDBBBnDa ■ DaDBDDBaDH ■DDBaaDDaBDa DDBBDDBaGBBa DBDDBBBDaOBD BBaDDBaDBDDD DDBDaaBBaDDB DnaBnPBnDBBB BaaBBBDDOBra BBDDIinCBCnDB DDBBCDGBBniTB DnBnDBDDBBBD aBOnDBBBDaBD DDDBOnBOaBBB BDDBBBDDDBaa BBBDDBDDBaaD Design DDDDnDnnDnnB DDDnnnDaDaBa nDDaoDDDDBnn DDDnnDDDBDna DDDDnDnBDDDn DDDannBDDnna DannDBDDDDnn DDDDBnanDDnn DDGBnaDDDDDn DnBDDDDanDDn nBnanna Dnno BDDaDDnDDnna Drawing-in-Draft DDBBDDBBDDBB BBDDBBDDBBaa Reed Plan Harness chain same as design. and medium shades of red, blue, green, yellow, etc., and a good jet black. Cretonne is made in widths from 25 inches to 36 inches, the narrow grades being the lightest in weight. The various grades are used for couch covers, draperies, lambrequins, and comfortables or bed quilts. THE WEAVING. Being a one-shuttle fabric, plain weave or twilled, cretonne can be wov- en om the single box roller loom such as the Mason, Draper, Lowell, Col- vin, Lewiston, or Kilburn and Lincoln. The fancy grades in which mixed weaves are desired, necessitate the use of the Knowles Pairmount, or similar looms, with a dobby or head motion aJttached. The warp for cretonne, being either gray or bleached yarn, iS' prepared in a manner similar to that of weaving a plain ordinary sheeting. Those grades in which the plain weave or — - twill weave are used are drawn in and woven upon four harnesses. If, however, a fancy weave is desired, the warp must be drawn in and woven upon a number of har- nesses, in accordance with the number of ends In one repeat of weave desired. As printing the colored pattern upon thiis fabric constitutes the fimish there- of, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brushing ma- chine, to remove all dust, dirt or loose ends. THE FIGURED PATTERN to be produced upon the cloth has been engraved upon ' bronze rollers, which have been set .up in the printing machine. The colors are fed auto- matically to the rollers, which, in re- volving, register the colors upon the face of the cloth, as it passes between them. The cloth is then dried by be- ing run through heated rollers or drums, and the fabric is then rea:ly to be folded into suitable lengths to be packed and shipped. Four square inches equals 7.95 grains. 29x36 equals ]>044x7.95 equals 8,299.- SO divided by 4 equals 2,074.95 divided by 437.5 equals 4.742 ounces per yard, 29 inches wide. 20 pieces white warp yarn equals x2y2 inches equals 50 inches equals .55 grains, 50x7,000 equals 350,000 divided by .55 equals 036,363 divided by 36 equals 17,399 divided by 840 equals l-20s cotton warp yarn. 12 pieces white filling yarn times 4 inches equals 48 inches equals 1.55 grains. 48x7,000 equals 336,000 divided by 1.55 equals 216,774 divided by 36 equals 6,021.5 divided by 840 equals l-7s cot- ton filling yarn. 15 cents per yard, 29 inches finished. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 900 minus 30 1-3 inches minus 2 ends per dent, 52 ends per inch fin- isihed,40 picks per inch finished, equals 50 ends in reed, 38 picks in loom, 10 per cent take-up in weaving. 52x29 equals 1,508 plus 10 per cent equals 1,675 yards l-20s cotton warp yarn, 40x29 equals 1,160 yards l-7s cot- ton filling yarn, 1,675 yards, l-20s cot- ton warp equals 1,595 ounces, 1,160 yards l-7s cottom filling equals 3.156 ounces equals 4,751 ounces. 10 cents per yard, 25% inches quality ^ — - twill, four square inches equals 3.9 grains. 2514x36 equals 909x3.9 equals 3545.1 divided by 4 equals 886.2 divided by 437.5 equals 2.025 ounces per yard, 25^4 inches wide. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 93 Carding and Spinning Particulars. The division of mills making cre- tonnes would be the second (or those mills equipped with machinery for making yarns the counts of which vary from 20 to 80s). The counts of yarn used for cretonne vary from l-20s to l-40s warp and from l-7s to l-20s filling, according to the quality of cretonne required. In speaking of the second division of mills we do not mean to say that the count of yarn is always Avithin these limits, but that when buying machinery, the specifica- tions for the different machines are made out according to whether the machines are to use low, medium or a fine grade of raw stock. Of course, it often happens that yarns of a lower oounjt or of a higher couht are made on this machinery, but the great bulk of the yarns turned off are within the limits. For example, take cretonne: All grades of cretonne may be made in the same mill, although the count of the yarn varies from 7s to 40s,. or in some cases even a finer yarn than this is used. For this article we will con- siider that the filling yarn is l-20s and the warp yarn is l-40s. The length of steple used would be from 1 1-16 to I14 inches of a medium grade of cotton. The bales of raw stock would first be siampled and several bales of practical- ly the same length of staple placed around the bale breaker and fed to this machine in small portions alternately fi'om each bale. In this manner it is mixed better than if one entire bale was fed. If a bale breaker is not used the method would be just the same except that it would be done by hand. The lower count would use cotton of a length of 1 I-IG inches and the higher count l',4 inches. Both cottons would be put through an opener and two processes of picking. Keep your hopper of the opener well filled (over half full). The speed of the beater for both grades of cotton should be about 1,050 revolntions per minute; the speed of the fan about 350 revolu- tions per minute. See that your pin roller is always clean, because if the cotton is allowed to accumulate, it cannot perform its duty properly. The cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the breaker beater and passed on to the beater, the speed of which should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute; a rigid two-bladed type. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard for both cottons. The laps are ' doubled at the finisher picker four in- to one, the cut roving being mixed in at this point in the proportion of three laps of raw s;tock to one of bobbin waste. The speed of the beater should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through about 42 beats per inch. See that the grid bars under the beaters are properly set. The total weight of the lap at the frontshould be 39 pounds for the shorter staple cotton and 35 pounds for the longer, or a 14- ounce lap for the 1 1-16-inch staple and 12%-o'unoe lap for the 114-inch staple cotton. Keep the picker room clean and al- ways calculate to have enough laps of each kind of cotton ahead so that if breakdowns occur the cards will not be stopped for want of laps. The draft of the finisher picker is about 3. The cards should be set as before de- scribed in a previous lesson, except that the feed plate should be se(t to the licker-in, according to the length of the staple. Cards should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month. The wire fillet should be made of 34 wire for 11 Os English count) for cylinder and 35 (or 120s English count) for doffer and flats. Use as large a doffer as possible, say 26 inches at least. The draft of the card should be about 100 for both stocks. The weight of the sliver at the front of the card should be about 65 grains. The production should be 825 pounds for the shorter staple and 600 pounds for the longer one for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver is next put through three processes of drawing frames. A few of the more particular points to look out for are, scour the frames at least once a month, keep your leather top rolls in perfect oomdition and well oiled and barnished. Se© that all knock-off motio'us are in working order to pre- vent single and double; keep the weight of your sliver uniform by siz- ing it at least twice a day and three times a day for fine yarns, doubling six into one at all frames. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is drawn into .50 hank roving at the slubber, the stand- ard twist being found by multiplying the square root of hank by 1. The roving for the 20s yarn goes through two processes of fiy frames, the hank at the first intermediate being 2 and at the second 5 hank. The 40b yarn rov- ing is put through three processes, the hank roving at each process being as follows: first, 1.50; second, 3.50 and 94 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. third, 9 to 9.50 hank, the doublings at all frames being two into one. The sliver is then passed to the spanning roomi. In case the fifling yarn is spun on a ring frame the following would be g)ood particulars for the frame spin- ning 20s: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diiameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; speed of spin- dle, 7,300 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 14.50; and for a warp frame spinning 40s: gauge of frame, 2% incihes; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; twist, 28.45. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red, 4 B S, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda. YELLOW. 2 per cent chrysophemine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BLUB. 1 per cent diamine sky blue F F, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. 1 per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 1 per cent diamine sky blue PF, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. ORANGE. 2 per cent tetrazo orange, C R, 30 per cent Glauber's, 1 per cent sal soda. MAROON. 3 per cent tetrazo Corinth G, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 3 per cent heliotrope B B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sial soda. On a tannin and tartar emetic mordant dye the four following shades: MALACHITE GREEN. 2 per cent malachite green; also for MEDIUM BLUE. 2 per cent methylene blue. PINK. 1 per cent rhodamine 5G. PURPLE. 1 per cent methyl violet 3 B. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G, 15 per cent sulphide sodium, 5 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. SLATE. 2 per cent thion black G, 2 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. LIGHT BROWN. 8 per cent thion brown G, 8 per ceiat sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. DARK BROWN. 12 per cent thion brown G, ^^ per cent thion black G, 12 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt. Cretonnes are also printed with very large picture designs of very bright colors,' of very strong contrast gener- ally. Some styles are of a simple character with small flowers and twigs on a white or cream-colored ground. Other styles are of starttling reds and other bright colors, on a dark brown, maroon or black ground, or on any dark colored ground to make a contrast. The colors are' printed with fast ali- zarine or tannin colors, which will be fast to sunlight and washing. Bright- ness of shade is required in most cases. SILESIA. Silesia is a light-weight single cloth fabric, having a rather high texture, and weighing about three ounces per yard. It is composed of all cotton DBaaaBaHBDH ■■aaaaiiBLjHMa ■DaBaBaaaana DaaGaaDBaaaa BBaaBGaaDBBD aaaaaaaaaaaa oaBDaBGaBDBa BBDBBaBBDBBa BGBBDBBaaaDB DBBGBBDBBGBB BBGBBGBBGBBG BGBBGBBGBBGB nGBGGBaaBnGB GBGaaaaBGOBG BaGBaGBUGBGa Drawing-in Drift GGGBBBnGGBBB BBBGGGBBBUaa Ee«a Plan yarns l-30s to 1-40b in warp and filling 2 and is usually made with a — j' 45 degree right-hand twill weave. It is used principally as a lining for la- dies' and men's clothing. A VERY IMPORTANT FEATURE in connection with this fabric is the highly glazed or polished face of the goods, which is due to the action of the heated roller in the calendering machine upon the sizing, which the goods haive absorbed in the process of finishing, just previous to the calen- dering operation. Silesia is woven of yarn in the gray state and is dyed in the piece, in such colors as black, dark blue, brown. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 95 slate, drab, steel, etc. It is woTen on any single box roller loom, such as the Mason, Loweill, Lewiston, Colvin, etc. The warp is made upon an Entwistle or Draper warping mill, and beamed upon the Lowell slashei'. It is then ready to be drawn in on cotton har- ness, and woven in a manner similar to a drill. TO FINISH THIS FABRIC. The goods are taken from the loom and brushed, then run through a solu- tion of soap and cold water to remove all dirt, after which they are rinsed in cold water. The goods are now dyed in the piece, after which they are sized, then ten- tered to keep from shrinking in width, also' to dry the cloth. After tentering, the goods are run through the calender to produce the smooth, glazed finish upon the face of the cloth. The fin- ished fabric is then ready to prepare for packing and shipping. Four square inches equals 5.4 grains. 27x36 equals 972x3.4 equals 5,248.8 divided by 4 equals 1,312.2 divided by 437.5 equals three ounces per yard, 27 inches wide finished. 24 pieces wary yarn times IV^ inches equals 36 inches equals .3 grains; 36x 7,000 equals 252,000 divided by .3 equals 840,000 divided by 36 equals 23,333 di- vided by 840 equals l-28s warp. 30 pieces filling yarn times lYs inches equals 45 Inches equals .33 grains; 45x7,000 equals 315,000 divided by .33 equals 924,242 divided by 36 equals 25,673 divided by 840 equals 1-30S filling. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,012 minus 28.7 inches in reed minus three ends per dent, 90 ends per inch finished and 72 picks per inch finished, equals 86 ends in reed and 69 picks in loom. 10 per cent take-up on warp in weaving 6 per cent size on warp in weaving. 1-2SS cotton warp,l-30B cotton filling. Color — slate or drab. 90x27 equals 2,430 plus 10 per cent equals 2,700 yards l-28s cotton warp, 72x27 equals 1,944 yards l-30s cotton filling. 2,700 yards l-28s cottom warp equals 1.S37 ounces, 1,944 yards l-30s cotton filling equals 1.234 ounces, equals 3.071 ounces. Finish equals brush and calender. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns used in making silesia vary from 30s to 40s. These counts of yarn would be made in a mill of the second division as given in a previous lesson. Mills making this class of goods are now generally equipped with a bale breaker. After the cotton is stapled and the bales sorted out, according to the length of staple and grade of coitton, several bales are placed around the bale breaker and the cotton fed to this machine alternate- ly from each bale. By this method the COTTON IS MORE THOROUGHLY MIXED than if a whole bale was fed to the machine at once. The cotton is then dropped on an endless lattice and car- ried to its proper bin. This latter is generally movable in either direction so that it may be placed in position to drop the cotton into its proper bin. The mixings should be as large as pos- sible and cotton of a fair grade having a sitaple of 1% to l^.i inches for this class of goods. The mixings should be aJllowed to- stand as long as possible and the good waste from the pickers, cards, drawing frames and back of slubber should be mixed in at this place. The waste from the above ma- chines is collected at regular intervals, and may be mixed as fast as collected. Little system is used in mixing the waste into the raw stock, but the pick- e'>r room boss should watch to see tluat the waste man keeps the different lengths of sitiaples:, kinds and grades of cotton by themselves. Otherwise trouble is bound to occur at the lat- ter machines. The raw stock is put through an opener, and sometimes three but more often TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. The hopper of the opener is filled with cotton and started up and should be kept well filled all the time it is in motion. The speed of the beater of this miachine for this class of goods should be 1,050 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 350 revolutions per minute. Keep your pin beater clean and see that it is adjusted to the prop- er distance from the lifting apron so that the correct amount of cotton will be fed to the breaker picker. The to- tal weight of the laps for both the warps and filling yam should be about 40 pounds or 16 ounces to yard of lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. The speed of the beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute, with a fair speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute. Tliis gives the cotton about 42 beats per inch of cotton fed. The beats per inch given 96 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. to cotton do not vary much on all classes of cotton, except in the case of Sea Island, of a long staple. In the latter case the speed of the beater is slowed down so that the cotton re- ceives from 29 to 34 beats per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the finisher is 35 pounds or 12^2 ounces to yard of lap. The BOBBIN WASTE COTTON is mixed at this point, it first having gone through an extra process to take out the twist. This waste is made into a lap and then put up at the finisher picker and mixed In proportions of three laps of raw sitock to one lap of bobbin waste. The draughts of the picker should be looked after to see that the currents of air are properly directed so as to obtain the best ad- vantage in making an even, firm lap that will not lick up at the card. Too m.uch waste in the mixing will also tend to make a lap split or lick up at the card. THE CARD should have a draft of not less than 100. The settlings should be the same as given in a previous lesson and the cyl- inder and doffer stripped three times a day. The cylinder and doffer should be ground once a month and the flats about once in every three weeks. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about fj5 grains per yard. Use the same count of wire for cylinder and doffer as given in the last article. The card sliver is put through three proeesises of drawing. In some mills the cOtiton is put through a railway head. This machine doubles from 8 to 16 ends and this at the front passes through a trumpet, which auto- matically evens it. When this process is used, one process of drawing frames is left out. The weight of the slaver at the front of the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. See that your leather top rolls are well varnished and otherwise in perfect condition. The following directions will be found excellent for making the varnish to use on the rolls: three ounces glue (use a gelatin fish glue), one ounce of acid (acetic). Let this dissolve and then add color and 10 or 12 drops of oil of origanum. In warm weather a little borax may be added. The sliver is taken from the drawing frame and run through the slubber, where it is made into a .50 hank rov- ing. The slubber roving is then put through THREE PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES for both warp and filling yarns, the hank roving being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second interme- diate, 4 and 7.50 hank at the jack frame for the warp yarn and 8. for the filling yarn. See that your fiy frame rolls are spread to the proper distance and look out for the shape of your full bobbins to see that the taper of the ends is neither too blunt nor too sharp. If the former, it is liable to run over both on the frame and in handling,and if the latter,only a small amount of roving can be wound on each bobbin. The warp yarn is spun in the ring spinning frame, but the filling yarn may be either spun on a ring frame or a mule, but is generally done on the former machine. The par- ticulars for a v/arp frame spinning 36s yarn has already been given in a pre- vious lesson. Those used for a filling frame spinning 40s are as follows: Oauge of spindles, 2% inches; diame- ter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5^/^ inches; speed of spindle, 8,800 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 23.72. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and put through a slaislier. Dyeing Particulars. Silesias are dyed on the jig ma- chine at the full width of the piece. CREAM. A few grains of fast cotton yellow C Ex, 5 pounds Grlauber's, one-half pound sal soda. LIGHT ECRU. 1-16 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 1-16 ounce, direct orange T G. ECRU. 1-36 ounce fast cotton yellow C Ex, 1% ounces fast cotton brown G, 5 pounds Glauber's, i/^ pound sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. 2 ounces fast cotton yellow C Ex, 4 ounces direct black S. 5 pounds Glaub- er's, Yz pound sal soda. SLATE. 1 pound direct black S, 4 ounces fast cotton yellow C Ex, 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 1 pound sal soda. DARK SLATE. 2 pounds diamine black B H,4 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 4 ounces oxy- diamine black A, 20 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT DRAB. 4 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 4 ounces diamine brown B, 4 ounces A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 97 diamine blaek B H, 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. DRAB. '/^ pound diamine fast yellow A, % pound diamine black B H, 6 ounces diamine brown B, 10 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT TAN. % pound diamine fast yellow A, % pound diaminerai brown G, 10 pounds Glauber's, two pounds sal soda. TAN. 2 pounds diamine catechine 3 G, 1 pound diamine fast yellow B, lO pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. OLD GOLD. 3 pounds diamdne fast yellow B, 2 pounds diamine catecMne 3 G, ^/^ ounce diamine black B H, 10 pounds Glau- ber's, 2 pounds sal soda. PEARL. 1-16 ounce diamine brilliant blue G, 5 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda, aftertreated % per cent copper sul- phate. SKY BLUE. 6 ounces diamine sky blue F F, ti pounds Glauber's, V2 pound sal soda. BLUE. 2 pounds diamine blue R W,5 pounds C'lauber's, % pound sal soda. RED. 6 per cent primuline, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per oent sal soda. Diazoitized IVz per cent nitrate soda 5 per cent sulphuric aoid. Developed two pounds beta naphtol. SCARLET. 4 pounds benzo fast scarlet 4 B S, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. MAROON. 5 pounds tetrazo' corinth B, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. HELIOTROPE. ^ pound heliotrope B B, 10 pounds (rlauber's, % pound sal soda. PINK. ^2 pound tetrazo pink B U, 20 pounds Glauber's, y2 pound sial siada. YELLOW. iy2 pounds chlorine' yellow G G, 20 pounds Glauber's, 2 ipounds sal soda. ORANGE. 2 pounds benzo fast orange S. 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. DARK GREEN. 3 per cent benzo dark green G G, 2 per cent chrysophenine, 1 per cent di- rect black B. GREEN. 3 per cent brilliant benzo green B, Vs per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. 5 per oent diazo black B H N, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. 6 per oent thion brown G, 6 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash. BROWN. 6 per cent diamdme brown B, 1 per ceut diamine yellow B, 1 per cent dia- mine caiteohin© G, 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BROWN. 2 per cent benzo fast black, 2^ per cent benzo fast red L, 4 per cent chrysophenine, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's. LAWN. Lawn is a Idght-weig'ht, single cloth wash fabric, weighing from 1% ounces to 21/4 ounces per yard and in widths from 36 inches to 40 inches finished. It is composed of all cotton yams (bleached) from l-40s itio abiout 1-lOOs, and is always woiven with a plain weave — j • PLAIN LAWN is made of solid wihite or bleached yarn in iboth the warp and filling. The fancier grades, or those having a color effect, are produced by ^printing vines, floral striipes, small floiwers^, etc., in bright colors, in scattered effects upon the face of the 'goods, the wiarp and the filling in all oases being bleached yarns. The patitems are always pnnt- ed:, never woven. Lawn is miade in various grades ranging in price from 5 cents to 12^ and 15 cents' per yard, land it is used principally in the mianufacture of la- dies' and children's summer dresses, sash curtains, etc. Being a rather sheer fabric, lawn is best adapte^d to 98 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. tihos© light runmii.g looms in, wlliiiCih. thie action of siieididiing is easiest upon tHae dBne yiarns useid in this style of goodis. The warp for ithis fabric is dresised or beameid upon a regular dressing frame. It is tthem drawn in on 4 harnesses to permit Oif freedom in shedding. The plain weave requires but twio barnesses', ^but whe:re there are a great num^ber of ends in the warp, the yam would be very much cirowded if ith'e Tvarp was drawn in on two har- nesses. Therefore, four or more har- nesses are usied. Dawn, when findsheid, should 'have a very soft, smooth feel. Therefore the finishing process includes h-rush- inig, very light starching or sizing, then calenidering or pressing. 16 siquare inches equals 6.9 grains. 40x36 equals 1,440x6.9 equals 9,936 divided by 16 equals 621 divided by 437.5 equals 1.419 ounces per yard, 40 inches wide finished-. 40 pi'eces white warp yam x 3i^ in- □■□■OBIB mamamoma auamamnm mamnmama nmamamam ■DBDBCBD DBDBDBDH BDBDBnBD Weave ' DBDBDBDB BaBDBOBQ Drawing- in Draft DDBBDOBB BBDDBBOO Reed Plan cihes equals 140 inches equals .5 grainsL 140x7,000 equals 980,000 divided by .5 equals 1,960,000 diivided by 36 equals 54,444 divided iby 840 equals l-66s cotton warp. 46 pieces white filling yam x 2^^ inches equals 100 equals .35 grains. 100x7,000 equals 700,000 divided by .35 eiquals 2,000,000 divided by 36 equals 55,555 divided by 840 equals l-66s cotton filling. CONSTRUCTION. 40 inches finished. 64 ends per inch finiisbed, 62 picks per inch finisheid equals 60 ends in reed and 58 picks in loom. Reed, 1,080; 42% inches in reed. 2 ends peT dent. 5 per oenit take-up -on warp in weav- ing. 64@40 equals 2,560 ends pins 5 per cent take-up equals 2,694 yards. 62 picks X 40 inches equals 2,480 yards. 2,694 yards, l-66s cotton warp equals .748 onnces; 2,480 yards, l-66s cotiton filling equals .712 ounces, total, 1.460 ounces. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarns from whioh. lawn is made vary according to the quality of lawn being made. This varies from 40s to lOOiS. The yarns are made in the third division of mills, as given in a previous lesson or those mills which make high connt yaurns. In this article we will consider the warp yarn to 'be 60S' and the filling yarn to be 100s. For 'tlhe&e two counts raw stock of two different lengths of staple and grade of yaim would 'be used. For 100s a Sea Island cotton of about 1%-inch staple may be used and for ithe warp yarn an Allen cotton of about 1^ iniches staple. The two cottons would be treated differ- ently at every process and so 'we will describe the two cottonis at eacih proc- ess. The Allen cotton woulid 'be put thro'ugh the b-ale ibreaker, dn the man- ner ascribed in the article of last week, 'and carried ito its 'proiper bin. At this point the GOOD WASTE IS MIXED IN. It is not the general custom to run the Sea Island cotton through the bale breakeiT, b'Ut to mix it by hand great oare should be taken that all the bales mixed are of a unifoirm length and that the grade of each bale is up to standard. Those bales not up to standard should be shipped back to tihe broker. The good waste is mixed in at 'this 'point, but be sure ith'at tihe waste boy only puts in Sea Island cot- ton for, if 'a shorter staple cotton gets in. At will cause trouible at subs'equent machines. The Allen cotton is put through two ^processes of picking and an opener. For this class of cotton three p'rocesiS'es of picking would be better, for, as it is a very dirty co't- ton, the extra picking would help to clean it. The speeds of all the pick- ing machines previously given may be used for ithis cotton. The weight of the lap at the breiaker piokeir should be ab'out 40 pounds or a 16-'Ounoe lap. The doublings are four into one at the finisher, the itotal weight being 3.5 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. If an inter- mediate picker is useid, the to'tal weight of the lap should be about 37 poiinids or a 12-ounce lap. The SEA ISLAND COTTON is only put through 'an opener and one process of picking, the reason for this being th'at the sitaple is S'O long that if two processes are useid the ex- tTa beating 'that it receives tends to put. neps into the staple. The speeds of the opener are slowed down and the sipeediS' of the finisher p'arts are as fol- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 99 lows: T'he speed of a rigid two-blad- ed beater stoould ruot exceed 1,000 rev- olutions per mimuite'. The total weigM •of the lap should be about 30 pounds OT abouiti a 9-ounce lap to the yard. The Tioviing waste should be mixed in at the finisher pickeir proceis:s, as pre- viously explaineid. The cards should be set close for both cottons, the main difference ibeing in the setting of the feed roller to the licker-in, which should be set according to the lengith of staple. The usual points thaiti have been given in; previous less'ons should be looked out for when running Allen cotton, thie weight of the sliver in front being 65 grains* to the yard and the production being abomt 500 pounds for a week of 60 hours, the draft be- inig mot less than 100. For Sea Island ADDITIONAL CARE has to be taken; also certain speeds have to be altered. It has been found that by slowing the speed of the lick- er-in less neps are put into the cotton and still the cotton is cleaned. In fact, one overseer using this class of cotton lagged 'his licker-in pulley so as to O'b- tain an extra diameter of 1% inches and found the results excellent, the sliver showing fewer neps than when the us'ual speed of the lickernin was used. On this cotton it is the general pracitlice to use high drafts and some- times la draft of 165 is used, but for general purposes a draft of about 130 is used. The flats are speeded so as to make one complete revolution every 45 minutes, the extra speed being o^b- tained by lagging the pulley on the cylinder that drives the flats. This, of course, takes out more' waste; but it makes less work for the combers to do. The weight of the sliver at the card is about 45 grains^ per yard. Strip and grind cards the same as stated in previoius articles. THE WIRE FILLET, used for cards making sliver for high class yarns is generally firmer than tlhait previously given, and if cards are used for high count yarn the size of the fillet should be as follows: Cylin- der N'O. 34 wire or 110s English count; doffer and top flats. No. 36 wire or 130s English count. The production of a card on Sea Islanid cotton varies from 325 to 450 pounds per week of 60 hours. Four hundred pounds is a good average. From the cards both coiftons are taken to the comber room and the doublings at the sliver lap are 14 into one. The weight of the Allen lap at the front is 320 grains per vard and the Sea Island weighs 250 grains per yard. The cottons are tihen put through the ribbon lap machine, where the Allen is idouibled 6 into one, but it is ithe general ousitom to double th« Sea Island only 5 into one, the weiglht of lap at the front end being 260 grains per yard for Allen and 200 grains for Sea Island. The laps are- taken to ithe combers, where' .they are- doubled 6 into one. The speeid of the comibers should be abouiti 85 to 90 nepis per minute for Allen and 75 to 80 for Sea Island. The amount of wasite- taken out at the com'ber is Important, a gooid average for Allen is 18 per cent auid for Sea Island 20 to 25 per cent. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER for Allen is about 42 and for Sea Island about 36 grains per yard. After passing through itihe comber the sliver is put through two processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at the front being 60 grains per yard for Sea Island and 70 grains for Allen. On all machines when leather top rolls are used for Sea Island, stock should be kept in the best of shape and oiled and varniished frequently. The speed of itihe front roll on the finisiher draw- ing for Sea Island should be abont 320 revolutions per iminute or 80 revo- lutions per .m.iniute slower than for Allen. The slubber draws the sliver into .50 hank roving for Allen and .80 hank for Sea Island. The Sea Island is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving ibeing as fol- lows: First iniLiermediate, 2.25; second intermediate, 5.00; jack frame, 18 hank; and for Allen: First interme^ diate, 1.50; second intermediate, 4.0O; jack frame, 12 hank. The twist per inch put into Sea Island cotton is a little leiss than the usual amount used for other cottons, the sitandard for jack frames being square root of hank X 1.2. The filling yarn is mule spun and the wiarp yarn ring spun, the followiin.g particulars being used: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revo- lutions per minute; twist pier inch, 34.86. The warp yam is then taken to tihe spoolers and from here to.the warp- ers, where it is run on beams and tak- en to the slasher. The following is a good size to use: 100 gal. water, 54 pounds potato starch, 2 pounds York- shire gum, lYz pounds sioap. Finishing Particulars. Lawns have to be very carefully handled in the ibleacihing process. tc. 100 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Tihey aire stajrchied wiith. oai ord'inary sbaroh 'm.an.gile witih. froan 8 to 12 ouaces best white German dextrine peir giallon, mixed oold, and iboiiled flar one. hour, with a littte ^blnein'g added to s'hiade required. They are th'&n finisihed on ifche stent- er maiohinie, dryed with hat air, care being teke'n to keep the pieces per- fectly sitraigh)t. Somie ibleadhens Ihandle each piece separaiteiy from start of process to finisih, ibleaclhinig, starching by hiand in a. tub and drying in a frame ini .the .stenter stove. By &o do- ing the piieces do not gelt drawn and the filling is always sillraigiht across the piece. Lawns are oftea tinted light slhades of blue, pink, cream, ecru, pearl, greem and other light tints 'wiith direct colors aidded to the starch, ttue direct colors being used generally. The -b'a- sic and acid colors' are aliso' tinted to jnake bright oolors. TARTAN PLAIDS. Tartan plaid is a narrow, light- weight, single Cloth fabric, weighing from 2 to 214 ounces per yard finisihed, and is composed of regular cotton yarns from l-20s to l-26s in warp and DDaaDDM oaaDDHD ■■DDBBDa ■DDMaaDB DDaaDDIH ammaamma ■■DGBBDa ■aaiBDDB Weave nnoBaDOB nDBDQDBD QBDDDBDD BanDBona ' Drawing-in Draft DDBBDDBB BBDHIBBDa Reed Plan filling. It is always woven about 23% inches in the reed, to finish about 22 inches wide. This is done to prevent it from coming too close to the ging- ham limes. Tajrtan plaids are generally woven with a — 4.5 degree, right hand twill weave, and are always woven in plaid patterns in imitation of the im- ported worsted fabric of this name. Each line of patterns has a stand- ard name, which represents a signifi- cant style of color arrangement, such as Rob Roy, dress Stewart,Royal Stew- art, Malcolm, Praser, McGregor, Sin- clair, Gordon, Drummoud, Macpher- son, etc. Those colors most used are red, greein, black, white, brown, drab, wine, dark green, scarlet, dark blue, etc. IN THE ROB ROY STYLE the pattern tekee the form of a broad, two-colored check, 114x114 inches, either black and red, or black and white, viz.: 72 black. 72 red in warp and filling. The dress Stewart pat- tern is composed principally of white yarn. The Royal Stewart has a de- cided red color effect. The Gordon pat- tern a very green color effect, etc. Aniline colors are used in dyeing the yarns for this fabric, the warp yarns being given an extra run, to insure an evem shade, which, while not being ex- actly a fast color, is strong enough to withstand the action of a rather wet finish (gingham finish). The Fairmount 4x1 box roller loom is used for the 2, 3 and 4 shuttle tar- tan plaids and the Knowles 4x4 ging- ham loom for those styles having more than four colors in the filling. The warps for this fabric are ordered from the spinner in either 720 yards, 1,080 yards, 1.200 yards or 1,500 yards lengths, and have either 1,000 ends, 1,200 ends, 1,400 ends, or 2,000 ends, in them. The most popular are 720, or 1,080 yards and 1.400 ends. The warp is dyed in bulk and the necessary number of ends of each col- or are then split off. When all the oolors have been split or separated, the splittings, or separated bunches of ends of each color, are assembled in the beaming framie, and the yarn is ar- ranged as per pattern in the rathe comb, and the warp run through this rathe on to the beam. After beaming the warp is drawn in in the regular manner. To finish this fabric, the goods are taken from the loom and run through the brusher, then through the sprink- ler, after which they are very lightly sized, then run upon the tentering machine to prevent undue shrinkage in width, also to assist in drying, then calendered, but not to a glossy finish. CONSTRUCTION. Style — Roto Uoj — finished 22 inches wide; reed, 1,080 — 23i/^ inches in reed, two ends per dent; l-26s cotton warp — 10 per cent take-up; l-22s cot- ton filling — 40 picks; ^— ^ , 45 degree, right-hand twill weave. 16 ends extra for selvedge. Warp pattern: 72 black x 72 reed, toital 144, all equal 9 pattems plus 112 ends. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 101 1424 ends in warp (including sel- vedge). Start 29 red at x. end 28 red at x. 704 ends black plus 10 per cent equals 780 yards l-26s warp equals .5715 ounce; 720 ends red plus 10 per cent equals 800 yards l-6s warp equals .5860 ounce; 48 picks times 23^/^ equals 564 yards, l-22s filling equals .488 ounces and 564 yards, l-22s filling equals .488 ounce, equals 2.1335 ounce. 2.1335 ounces per yard, 22 inches wide. Finish — very light size, tenter, cal- ender. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns used in the manufaoture of tartan plaids are made in mills of the first and second divisiion^as given in a previous lesson. The counts of yarn vary according to the mill in which they are made and the counts taken as examples for this article are l-22s filling j'-arn and l-26s warp yam. The cotton used for these goods is of a fair grade and a staple varying from % inch to 1 1-16 inches. We will consider the staple! tO' be one inch. The cotton is stapled and put through a bale breaker and from here is passed by a series of lattice aprons to the mixing bin. Use as large a mixing as possible at one time, because the less mixamgis the evenier th© yarn will be. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed into the raw stock at this paint, the collections of this waste being made at regular in- tervals. The raw stock is sometimes put througlh TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING and an opener and sometimes through three processes of picking and an opener. It has been found that two processes of picking will clean the cotton properly, and at the same time will not be so apt to put neps into it. When two processes of picking are used, the particulars of the intermedi- ate picker given bellow maybe dropped, the other particulars remaining the same as given. The hopper or feed box of the opener should always be kept at least half full and generally a porcupine beater is used. The speed of this beater should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute, with a fan- speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then passed to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. Keep the pin beater of this machine free from cotton, as it has tO' be watched to see that the sliver waste does not tangle around it. This roll is more trouble- some on some makes Oif machines thian on others. The SPEED OF THE BEATER (which generally is of a two-bladed rigid type) is 1,500 revolutions per mdnute,the fan speed being 1,400 revo- lutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front sihould be about 40 pounds total weight or a IG^ounce lap. Some system of marking has to be employed so that the laps of other grades and lengths of staple will not becom.e mixed and thus canse trouble later on. Of course, like staples and weights of laps may be placed togeth- er, but it is the general custom to mark the laps at the end as they are taken off the machine with different colorecl crayons. For example, 1 1-16 may be marked brown, 1% blue, ] 1-16 sal- mon, etc. This is not generally done at any except the finisher picker. The laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker, the speed of the beater being 1,450 revolutions per minute, and the speed of the fan 1,050 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front is about 37 pounds. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that THE ROVING WASTE is mixed in in a proportion of one lap of roving waste to three laps of raw stock. I'he cotton receives about 42 beats per inch fed. The total weig'ht of the lap is about 39 pounds, or about a 16-ounce per yard lap. The speed of the beater is about 1,500 revolu- tions per minute, and the speed of the fan 1,100 revolutions per minute. The laps are then put up at the card. The card is set to accommodate this stock as described in a previous lesson, the speed of cylinder being 160 revolutions per minute. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolutions per minute. Flats make one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The draft should not ex- ceed 100. Use a large diameter doffer. Strip three times daily and grind at least once a month. The weight of the sliver is 65 grains per yard. The production is about 900 pounds per week of 60 hours. The sliver is then put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, being doubled six into one, the speed of the front roller being 400 revolu- tions per minute, the weight of drawing at the finisher being 70 grains. Some of the points th'at aro to be looked out for are as follows: 102 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Stop mo'tions, rolls, laps and oiling. The sliver is next taken to the slubber and made into .40 bank roving,tlie usual standard for twist being used. Look out for the shape of j'^our bobbins The slubber roving is put through three processes of fly frames, doubling two into one. The hank roving at the first intermediate is 1.10. at the second 2.70 hank and at the jack frame five hank. The rovings are then taken to the spinning room and made imto the re- quired yarn. THE FILLING YARN may be taken to either the mule or ring spinning room. If taken to the ring spinning room, the following are good particulars to use for frame making 22s yarn: Gauge of frame,2?;4 : diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, Gi^incbes; twist per inch, 15.- 25; speed of spindles, 7,400 revolutions per minute. For a warp frame spin- njng 26s use gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse. 6 inchps: speed of spindles, 9.700 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and put through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. RED. 4 per cemt diamine fast red F, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. GREEN. IV2 per cent diamine sky blue FF, 1% per cent diamine fast yellow FF, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLACK. 15 per cent thion black G, 15 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. BROWN. 5 per cent benzo fast orange S, 2 per cent chrysophenine, 21^ per cent benzo fast black, 30 per cent salt, 2 per cent soda ash. DRAB. % per cent bpnzo fast black, V^ per oenit chrysophenine, 3 ounces b(?.nzo fast red G L, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. % per cent benzo fast black, V4 ounce chrysopherine, V4 ounce benzo fast red GL, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. 5 per cent diamine scarlet B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. DARK GREEN. 6 per cent diamine black HW, 4 per cent diamine fast j-'ellow B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. 6 per cent diamine Bordeau B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BLUE. 4 per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BLUE. 15 per cent pyroigene indigo B, 15 per cent sodium sulphide, 30 per cemt salt, 3 per cent soda ash, 2 pints mineral oil. YELLOW. 2 per cent chloramine yellow M, 30 per cen't Glauber's, 2 per cemt soda ash. ■*-*-*■ BAYADERE. Bayadere is a fabric in which the pattern consists of a stripe mnning aoross the width instead of the length of the material. Such patterns are almost entirely confined to ladies' and children's dress goods, and may be composed entirely of cotton, as in the cheapesit grades, of cotton and worsted in the medium, or entirely of worsited or worsted and silk in the hest grades. The fabric considered in this article is a medium grade cloth of ladies' dress goods, and is composed of worst- ed, silk and cotton and weighs 5% ounces per yard, 36 inohes w'ide, fin- ished. The pattern is a zigzag stripe, ex- tending across the fabric in the direc- tion of the weft on a rep ground. Figure 1 shows the full design fOr the one repeat of the pattern, and is complete on 132 warp threads and SO picks. Figure 2 is the drawing-in draft and is complete on 13 harnesses. Figure 3 is the reeding plan. Figure 4 is the chain draft. The arrangement of the warp and wp'"t threads is as follows: Warp, 2 threads blue 2-50s worsted A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 103 (xx Ohio), 1 thread brov,rn 2-60s cot- ton (carded peeler); 3 threads in pat- tern. Weft, 1 pick light blue 40-2s spun silk, 2 picks brown, 20-cut cotton (wool spun): 3 picks in pattern. Fig. 3. Pig-. 2. When drawlng-in, cotton muisit al- ways come on first four shafts, and worsted on the last nine shafts. Almost any dobby ioom might be used having the required number of harncss.-s and shuttle boxes. Fis-. 20 reed, 3 threads per dent— 60 iJireads per inch. Reeded 38 Vo inches wide for 36 inches finished, 40 picks per inch. The above warp must be made on two beams: coifcton threads on top beam, worsited threads on bottom beam. In regulating the tension of the two beams, oons;iderable care must be used in order that the rib in the ground may be made a:s clear and distinct as possible. This may be accomplished by having relatively more weight on the cott'on beam than on the worsted, which is an importanit feature in the 104 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. manufacture of all fabrics of a rep chatraoter, and which is fully illusitrat- ed by the small sketch. Figure 5. It will be noticed that the cotton (thin) threiads ax-e held very nearly straight, while th^ worsted are forced to bend around the heavy picks of the weft. The take-up of the woirsted threads is therefore much greater than that of the cottooi, being about eighit per cent, while the cotton is only about tvv^o per cent. The worsited warp then must be made relatiively longer. In introducing the weft threads, the DDaDBaaHiBaaB □Doaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaanoDDoa Daaaaaaaaaaaa Gaaoaaaaaaaaa aaaBDaGDnaaan DQDaaaaasaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaaanaoDDaaa GoDDaaaaaaaaa DDDnaaaaaaaaa aaaaana-iaaDaG DDDDaaaaaaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaaDGDDauBDa DDDDaaaaaaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaaoDDinBaaa DDDDBaaaBBBaa DGDDBaaBBB'BB aaaaiDaGaDaDG DDDDaaaaaaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaanaDaDaDOU DDDDaaaaaaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaaaDa ^aDDDD DDDDaaaaaaaaa DDDDaaaaaaaaa aaaaDanaDDGDO Fig. 4. silk pick must always enter when the cotton warp threiads are up in the .ground piortion of the cloth. THE FINISHING. In fini'Sihing fabrics of this character everything depiends upon the quality of the cloth — the fabric just described having a dry finish, viz.: after being burled and mended, it is brushed and pi'eissed and rolled and is then ready for f3ihipment. In the best grades, however, the cloth musit be scoured, tentered, shear- ed, brushed and pressed before being rolled and miade ready for shipment. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machines used in making the count of yarn required for the warp yarn of bayadere will be found in the second division of mills, as gliven in a previous lesson. Bayaderes, as has been stated, may be composed of all worsted, or all cotton yarns or a mix- ture of worsted and cotton yarns, or a mixture of worsted, silk and cotton. In fact, there may be almO'Sit any com- bination of these three fibres. The besit grades of bayadere are made up of worsted and silk yarns. For this article we will consider that the fabric is composed of all three kinds of raw stock, worsted, silk and cotton. Par the warp, 2-60s yarn is used and for the filling a 20-cut cotton yam is used. The filling yarn is spun in a woolen mill and so THE WARP YARN will be the one considered under the above heading. Pot this count of yam a peeler cot- ton is used of about 1^4 inches staple. This cotton should be of a good grade and should be run throug'h a bale breaker. The principal part of the miixing is done at the bale breaker for this cotton. The odtton is brougiht from the stoirehouse and sampled and the bales having the same leng'th of staple are put togeither. Those hav- ing a staple or grade not up to mark are laid one side. Several bales are opened and placed aroimd the bale breaker and the attendant feeds from each bale alternaitieily until all the cot- ton is gone. As many bales as pos- sible and convenient should be opened II>^1 Fii and placed around the bale breaker at on© time because a MORE EVEN MIXING will thus be obtained and the yam Will run a great deal evener. After passing through the bale breaker the stock is conveyed automatically tO' the mixing A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 106 bins. If ith'e mixing is done by hand, the same- pdints have tO' be looked out for, the only difference being that sev- eral hands are used inistead of a ma- chine. At the bins the good waste is mixed. The raw stock is then passed through two or three processes of picking and an openeir. If only two processes of picking are used, then th'e particulars given for the intermediate picker may be left oiut,the other partic- ulars given remaining the same. The hopper of the opener should always be kept more titan half full. The speed of THE BEATER is 1,050 revolutions per minute. Gen- erally a porcupine style of beater is used for this machine, with a fair speed of 350 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then passed to the breaker picker. The speed of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) is about 1,500 revolutions per minute, thiat of the fan, 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of the laps at the front should be about 40 pounds, or a lO-ounce lap. The laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled four into one. The speed of the; beater sihould be 1,450 revolutions P'cr minute. That of the fan 1,050 revolutioins per minute. The weight of the laps at the frout end should be about 37 pounds.or a 12-ouncelap for peeler cotton to make this class of goods. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the CUT ROVING IS MIXED IN (it having been previously put through a special picker, which takes out the twist and leaves it in a fluffy, untwist- ed state and then it is put through a picker and made into a lap of the siame weigM as 'the laps from the in- termediate picker), in the proportion of three lapis of raw stock to one lap waste. The speed of the beater for this machine is ],450 revolutions per minute, with a fan speed of 1,100 revo- lutions per minute. This gives the ooittoin passing through 42 beats or blows per inch. The Weight of the lap at th'e front is 35 pounds, or a 13%- ounce lap. Watch all the points that have previously been pointed out. The variation from standard should not be over S ounces either side for the to- tal lap. The lap is next taken to the card. The SETTINGS OP THE CARD for this division of mills have been previously given. Tl)e draft should not exceed 100; speed of licker-in, 300 revolutions per minute; speed of flats, 1 revolutio'n every 45 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 grainis; production about 650 pounds for week of 60 hours. Sitrip three times a day, grind once a month, and use as large a doffer as possible. The sliver is next puit through three processes of drawing, the doublings at eiach prociess being six inlto onie, the weight of the finisher drawing being 72 gTains per yard, and the revoiutJionis per minute of front roll 350. Either metallic or leather covered rolls may be used at this machine. If the former arei used, see that they are properly set and ke^ep them well scoured; if the latter are used, keep them in good repair, well varniished, and oiled. For this length of staple the following SETTINGS of the bottom steel rolls may be used: Front roll to second roll, IV2 inches; second roll to third, 1% inches; third roll to back, 1% inches. The sliver is put through tlie slubber and made into .55 hank roving. Three processes of speeders or fly frames are used, the hank roving being as fol- lows: at first intermediate 1.50; at the second, 4, and at the jack frame, 12. The usual points are to be looked out for in oonneotion with fly frames. The roving is then passed to the spinning room and made into 60s varn. For a warp frame making this count use the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2-14 inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; twist per inch, 34.86; speed of spindle, ro,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then taken to the twister and doubled or twisted into a two-ply yarn. It is then passed to the spool- er and from here to the warper and from here to the slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BROWN. 5 per cent diamine brown B, 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BLUE (SILK). 1 per cent patent blue, pure, 5 per cent acetic acid. BLUE (WORSTED). 3 per cent patent blue A, 20 per oeim Glauber's salt, 5 per cent sulphuric a(5id. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. BODCLE, Boiicle is a single cloth, dreiss goads fabric, weighing from 7 to 8 ounces i>er yard, 44 inches wide finished, and coim- posed of plain and fancy twist (cot- ton) yarn in warp and filling, also hav- ing a worsted loop yarn in the filling. Boucle is used principally ajs a nov- elty dress fabric for ladies' spring and fall suitings, the distinguishing fea- DBM^CiHaa HaCDBaDD ■a ■■aca DDBaDDaa □BBGGBBa BBDaaaaa BaaaaGDB Weave nnDBDDDB ODaDDDBD DBDDDBDD ■aanaana OBDBOBDB BDBDBDBD Seed Flan BOUCr.E (Woolen) Warp, all brown. Filling, 3 brown. 1 worsted, 1 loop. DwaBaBDBDBa DBDBBBDBaBBB BaBaflBBDBDBB DDBDBDBCBDB DBianDDBDCDa rBDBGBOBCBDBD J DBa"BwnBa»BB 1 aDBDMBBDaDBB (."■rw^Bf^aDana CDZBDaDDDBDD □DDDnannnanB DDnaBnaDDaBi j aaDBDDGDDBDD □DaDDDODaDGU DBDaannBaann BDDUDaaoanan Drawdng-in Draft. Reed Plan BOUCLE (Cotton) Weave ture of the cloth bieing the small loop in the filling yarn, whicfh curls over the face of the goods. COTTON BOUOLB is generally made with a fancy combi- natiO'n weave, and the all-wool grades •with a sitraSght twill weave. In the fabric boucle the loop yarn is always a worsted filling thread,twisted with a single cotton thread, generally dyed black. The color effects are either solid color in warp and filling with the loop yarn in contrast, or end and end patterns, created by using fancy colored cotton twist yarns. The colors most used are: Brown, dark blue, cadet blue, light green, drab, etc., or these same colors are twisted with a black thread for twist effects. Boucle is usually woven in the pick and pick loom, owing to the fact that there is never more than one pick of loop filling put in at one place, the ar- rangement generally being 4, 5, 6, 8 picks, cotton or cotton twist, to one pick of worsted loop yarn. The woven fabric (loom) of this n!ame is very closely imitated by a knitted fabric of similar appearance, which is a light-weight grade of as- trakhan. THE KNITTED FABRIC is made of cotton yarns, wound in cone shape and placed upon the Icnitting frame, no warp being required, and the thread which forms the loop is a reg- ular worsited thread, dyed black and wound upon a small bottle bobbin. The loops on the face of the cloth are formed by the loop wheels in the machine throwing the worsted thread between the stitching places, upon the face of the cloth in such a manner as to form a loop. WARP PREPARATION. The yarns can be taken direct from the twister and spooled upon small 6-inch spools and these spools assem- bled in the creel rack at the warp mill and the warp made in sections upon the mill drum, and afterwards run ofE the drum upon the loom beam: or, the yarns are taken from the twister and the entire number of spools required are placed upon a creel rack and the whole warp made by being run around an upright mill drum, which is an up- right framework centred upon an axle and turned by a crank, and hav- ing a circumference of from 20 to 50 yards. If made upon an upright mill, the warp, when finished, is pulled off and beamed. To finish boucle, the goods are tak- en froim the loom, and scoured in a solution of sioap and cold water, after which they are rinsed in cold water, tentered and pressed. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 720 — 49'^ inches — 1 end per dent, 20 picks per inch; 2-12s cotton warp and filling. Warp pattern: 4 black and blue twist, 2 black. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 107 Filling pattern: 4 black and blue twist, ] black loop yarn. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machines on which the counts of yarn are made in the manufacture of boucle will be found in the first di- vision of malls, as given in a previous lesson. The warp yarn is made from a coitton fibre, as is the filling yarn, but this class of cloth has an extra fill- lng,which is spun from a worsted fibre. This woTSited filling is what is known as a loop yarn and when woven into the cloth glives it a rough surface. The loo'ps are obtained by different meth- ods, this one being a three-ply yarn. THE YARN to make the filling warp yarns for boucle is made from raw stock having a staple of about one inch. This raw stock is generally mixed, in large quantities, by hand. If two mixings are made, it is a greiat deal better, for them one mixing can be standing and drying oxit while the other mixing is being used. The good waste is mixed at this point and sometimes, although on a poor quality of goods, a small per- centage of comber waste is used in the mixing. The raw stock is run throug'h an. opener and three processes of pickers. The hopp^er or feed box of the opener should be kept more than half full in order to oibtain as even a feed as possiible. The speed of the beater is 1,000 revolutions per minute. The cotitoin sheet is then passed on to the feed rolls of the breaker and is sitruck from them by the beater, which, if of the rigid two-bladeid type, makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap' at tihe front is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. These laps arei doubled, four into one, at tihei intermediate picker, of which the beateir makes 1,450 reivolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 39 pounds, or liVz ounces to the yard. The laps are next DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE at the finisher picker. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in in the proportion of one lap cut roving to three laps raw stock. The beater of this machine makes 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives 42 beats per inch of cotton fed. The to- tal weight of lap at the front is 39 pounds, or a 14'/^-'0unce lap. It will thus be seen that the doublings in a picker room, where three processes of picking are used, will be 16 against a total draft of 14.6, the individual drafts at the pickers being about 1.86 at breaker and 2.80 alt the intermediate and finisher pickers. The laps are put up at the oard, the draft of which for this class of goods should not exceed 100. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolutions per minute, the top flats m^aking one revolution every 45 min- utes. The card fillet of work of this class should use No. 32 wire for cyl- inder and No. 33 wire for doffer and top flats (No. 32 wire equals 90s Eng- lish count and No. 33 wire equals 100s). Grind wire once a month, strip three times a day, both cylinder and doffer, although some overseers strip the dof- fer once more. The weight of the sliver should be about 65 grains per yard and the card should produce be- tween 900 and 950 pounds per week of 60 hours. See that your knifeblades under the licker-in are properly set. The tv^o-knife arrangement is beitter than the one knife. Use A LARGE SIZE DOFFER. In setting your doffer to the cylinder use a No. 5 gauge. Two processes of drawing are generally used and for this class of work it is the general custom to use metallic rolls, as they are better adapted to this class of work than the leather covered top rolls. In calculating the piroduction turned off for metallic rolls always add 33 1-3 per cent over that calculated for leather covered rolls. The sliver weighs ajbout 70 grains per yard and with 400 revolutions per minute of front roll produces 2,100 pounds per week of 60 hours. The roving is then put through the slubber and made in- to 40 hank roving. It is then run through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, ■w^here it is made intO' 1.25 hank at the first intermediate and 2.50 at the sec- ond. The roving- is ihen taken to the spinning room. The particulars used for a Avairp spinning frame making 12s yarn would he as follows: Gauge of frame, 3 indhes; diameter of ring, 2l^ inches; length of traverse, 7 to 7%; speed of spindles, 19,000; and for a fill- ing frame spinning 12s use: Gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, ]i^ inches; length of traverse,7 inches; speed of spindle. 6,600. The yarn is then spooled, twisted into 2-ply 12s and warped, after which it is run through a slasher. 108 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Colors for Boucie. Following are good formulas for deing boucie: BROWN. 10 per cent thion brown G, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DARK BLUE. 10 per cent immedial indone B, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. CADET BLUE. 8 per cent immedial sky blue, 8 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. 4 per cent immedial sky blue, 3 per cent immedial yellow D, 7 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. DRAB. 3 per cent thion black G, % per cent thion brown G, 3 per cent sulphide so- da, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. 2 per cent immedial black N N, 2 per cent sulphide soda, 20 per cent Glau- ber's, 2 per cent soda ash. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N B, 15 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, S per cent soda ash. SCARLET. 6 per cent diamine scarlet B, 3 per cent sal soda, 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. 6 per cent benzo fast red 4 B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. COMBED YARN GOODS— COTTON LININGS, Cotton lining is a single cloth, all cotton fabric, weighing from 2 to 214 ounces per yard, the goods finished at 20% inches, including % inch for white selvedge. All combed cotton warp yarns are used in the produc- tion of this fabric,which,when finished, is used principally in the manufacture of sleeve linings, and as a stiffening in the more expensive grades of ladies' .and men's clothing. The object of treating the cottoa while in the sliver state, to the addi- tional process of combing,is to further assist in the operation of straightening^ out, or paralleling of the cotton fibres. Combed cotton, after being spun into yarn, produces a smooth, round, even thread. SLEEVE LININGS are made of combed yarns which after being dyed the required color are- glazed or polished, and this process, in connection with the weave employed, generally an eight harness satin warp effect face, gives to the yarn in cloth the appearance of a close woven hair cloth fabric. The finished fabric has a very smooth, hard, even face, though not a harsh feel. Linings are usually made in solid black color, or in fancy bright colored stripes,upoii a black groun'l. The col- ors forming the stripe patterns are- cherry red, cadet blue, yellow, red, brown, etc. The glazing machine consists main- ly of a large copper cylinder, four or Weave DDDDnnDB DDDDGDBP DDaDDKDD anaDBDDD □naBDDDn OaBDDDDD QBaDaana ■nnaaDDa Drawing-in Dralt ■■DDBBaa Reed Pla a five feet in diameter. This cylinder is heated to a high degree of intensity by either gas or steam. As the cylinder revolves, there are a series of rollers working against its surface, and running in an opposite di- rection. These rollers are set in the ma- chine frame above the cylinder and at regular distances, in much the same- manner as the workers and stripper on a woolen card. The yarn is fed to the machine through a pair of feed rollers, from which it passes over the face of the cylinder, and under the small rollers, or, in other words, between the cylin- der and the small rollers, after which it is delivered by a pair of rollers, sim- ilar to the feed rollers. The yarn is run through the machine twice, the object being to submit all parts of its surface to the friction, to cause the glaze to come up. Linings can be woven in a single- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 101 box roller or clipper loom. Lots ot trouble is thus developed by the fancy strapping required to produce the satin weave effects. Good results are obtained by using plain, single box loom, having a dobby, or witch top attached. To finish this fabric, the goods are taken from the loom and lightly starched, then run through the calen- der two or three times to set the smooth, glazed finish. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 1,000 — 23 inches in reed, two ends per dent; 62 picks l-30s black cotton filling, l-20s cotton (glazed warp) yarn. Warp pattern: 10 black, 4 cadet blue, 10 black, 4 j^ellow. Weight, about 2% ounces; finish, 20% inches. Eight harness satin weave; warp effect face. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Cotton linings are made of various counts of yarn, according to what grade of linings is wanted. In this ar- ticle we will consider that the cotton warp yarn is,l-20s combed, and the filling yarn l-30s. The j'arn for linings of this grade would be spun in mills of the second division, as given in a previous lesson, although yarns for linings are made in all three divisions of mills. THE RAW STOCK used should be of a fair grade, with a staple of about 1 5-16 inches. This is put through a bale breaker and from here carried by a series of end- less lattices to its proper bin. The bins to hold the different grades of cotton should be plainly marked on both ends, showing the kind, grade and length of staple.sothatno mistakes will occur through guesswork. If different lengths of staple get mixed togethei it will cause a great deal of trouble at the machines, having their rolls set at a certain distance of one length of staple. The cotton is fed to the bale break- er in the manner described in the last lesson. The cotton is allowed to dry out as much as possible before beint; fed to the opener. The good waste is mixed in at the bins. This class of * cotton passes through an opener and either two or three processes of pick- ing (generally two processes being used). If only two processes are used the particulars given for the interme- diate picker may be omitted. Use the different speeds of the opener and pickers as given in a previous lesson. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is 50 pounds, or 16 ounces to the yard. This is put up at the intermediate and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE and this lap at the front end has a total weight of 37 pounds,or 12 ounces to the yard. This lap in turn is put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in in a pro- portion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut roving. The total weight of lap at the front is 35 pounds,OT 12% ounces to the yard. The laps are then put up at the card, the draft of which should not be less than 120. A large doffer should be used; the card should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month. The cylinder speed is 160 revolutions per minute; speed of licker-in, 300 revolutions per minute. The top flats should make, one complete revolution every 35 minutes. The production of the card should be 500 pounds per week of 60 hours, the weight of the sliver being 50 grains per yard. The sliver (in cans) to be used for warp yarn is collected and passed to the SLIVER LAP MACHINE, or, as it is sometimes called, the small doubler; here it is doubled 14 into 1 and made into a lap. This sheet of lap weighs 395 grains to the yard. Six of these laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine, or. as it is sometimes called, the large doubler. These are doubled into one sheet of lap, which weighs 260 grains per yard. Six of these laps .are put up at the comber and made into a sliver weighing 45 grains per yard. The speed of the comber should bo about 90 nips per minute. The ma- chine is set so as to take out 18 per cent of waste. The draft of this ma- chine for this class of cotton should be about 27.50. This sliver is then put through two processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing being 70 grains per yard. The speed of the front rolls of this ma- chine is 350 revolutions per minute. Either metallic or leather covered top rolls may bo used. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving is passed through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at each being as fol- lows: At first intermediate, 1.50; at sec- ond intermediate, 4.50. This is then no A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. take 1 to the ring spinning room and spun into 20s yarn, using a frame hav- ing a spindle gauge of 2% inches, a 2- inch diameter ring, a 7-inch length of traverse, a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- olutions per minute, and a twist per inch of 21.24. This yarn is next spooled, then warped, after which it is put through the slasher. The weights and processes used for THE FULLING YARNS are different from the above. Starting at the card, the draft should be abcmc 100; the flats make one complete rev- oUition every 50 minutes; the sliver weighs 65 grains per yard.and the pro- duction is 700 pounds per week. This is then put through three processes of drawing, the weight' of the sliver at the finisher drawing being 73 grains per yard. The slubber roving is .55 hank. This is put through two proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: At the first interme- diate 2.00 and at the second 7.25 hank. This roving is then taken to either the ring spinning or the mule room and spun into 30s yarn. If the former, use a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spin- dles, 8,300 revolutions per minute; twist per inch, 19.17. CASHMERE TWILL. Dyeing Particulars. Many of the cheap linings are dyed a logwood black. By some people log- wood black is asked for, because the goods gain in weight, as logwood feeds the goods, adds weight and sub- stance, and all artificial blacks reduce the weight of the cloth. I'he logwood bath generally used is the steam, black. First, the goods are padded in a solution of logwood about 5 degrees Tw., dried over steam cans, run through a solution of bichromate of soda four oimces to the gallon, and then run through a steam box, and afterwards rinsed well in water. A one-dip aniline black is also dyed in some cases, and the oxidized aniline salt black is dj-ed to a large extent. The new sulphur blacks are being gradually introduced and may,ii time, supersede all other blacks. But for most purposes the black obtained by logwood is all that is required. The black and colored prints are printed with resist colors, and after- wards padded with aniline black, and finished with calendered, bettle or schreiner finish. Most finishes are very bright and glazed. Cashmere twill is a light-weight, single cloth, weighing from 2% to 3 ounces per yard, finished at 27 to 28 inches wide, and composed of about l-20s cotton warp, and l-16s to l-20s cotton or cotton shoddy filling. It is usually woven with an even or uneven sided twill weave, such as ? — 2 or ^ . the warp being all black, of dyed yarn, and the pattern being printed upon the face of the goods after the weaving operation. THE PATTERNS are generally small effects, produced by printing drabs or grays upon the black ground in imitation of twist Weave DCDDDDDB DDDDaaBD DDQDDBDa DDDDBDna aaauaana D«aDDDaa ■DaDDDDn Brawing-iD Draft uuaammna Reed Plan DHDDHaa ■■DDBBOa ■aDBiDDa aaaaacBB DaaDDBBD BaDDBaaa aaaaaDDB Weave nnDBDnna DDBDnDBD □BDDDBDD BaDDBDDD Drawing'in Draft nOBBDDBB BBDDBBDD Reed Plan yarn effects, the whole forming somewhat the appearance of a fancy mixed woolen fabric. This style of cloth was used princi- pally in the manufacture of ladies' fall novelty suitings, and can be woven on either the plain roller loom or a me- dium weight loom having dobby or witch attached. To finish this fabric, the cloth is tak- en from the loom and run through the printing machine to produce the pat- tern upon the face of the fabric, after which the goods are lightly sized and calendered. CONSTRUCTION. Reed, 700 — 30 inches in reed, 2 ends per dent — 16 ends selvedge — ^ 45 de- grees twill weave; l-20s cotton warp (black); 42 picks 1-16S cotton filling. 1,166 ends plus 16 equals 1,182 ends plus 5 per cent take-up in warp in weaving equals 1,227 yards l-20s cot- ton warp equals 1.17 ounces; 42 picks A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. HI times 30 inches equals 1,260 yards l-16s cotton filling equals 1.5 ounces. 1.17 ounces warp weight plus 1.5 ounces filling weight equals 2.67 ounces per yard. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The warp yarn used in the manufac- ture of cashmere twills may be made in either the first or second division of mills as given in a previous lesson. The filling yarn may be made in a cotton mill or in a woolen mill. For this ar- ticle we will consider the warp and filling yarns to be l-20s. For this count of yarn a medium grade of cot- ton should be used. A bale breaker would not be used, although it would improve the yarn. The mixing would be done by hand and as large a mixing as possible would be made at one time. By doing so there will be a saving time and also a more even yarn will be se- cured. The bales of cotton should be sampled and mixed in the manner de- scribed in a previous lesson. As the mixing is done by hand it sliould be allowed to stand as long as possible, so as to dry out, thus making the cotton EASIER TO HANDLE. It is at this point that the good waste from the machines up to the slubber is used. This waste should be pulled apart as much as possible before be- ing thrown into the mixing so that it will not work around the pin beater of the opener as it is apt to do when left coiled up The cotton is put through an opener and two processes of pick- ing. 7"he speed of the beater of the open- er should be about 1,700 revolutions per minute. The hopper should al- ways be kept half full and the fly cleaned out at frequent and regular intervals. The speed of a two-bladed rigid type beater of the breaker picker for this stock should be about 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total weight at the front is 40 pounds or 16 ounces to the yard. THE LAPS are doubled four into one at the fin- isher picker, and it is at this point that the cut rovi''g waste laps are mixed in in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut waste. The speed of this lieater (two bladed rigid tj'po"! is 1,450 revolutions per minute. This v/ill give the cotton passing throurh the machine about 42 bents per inch of cotton fed. The total weight of the lap at the front should t)e 39 pounds or 14 ounces to the yard. Take good care of your machines and keep them well oiled, cleaned, and set and the work will be greatly improved, both as to appearance and production. The lap is put up at the card and the draft should not exceed 100. The flats should make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. THE CARDS should be clea^ied at least twice a day and the fly taken from underneath once a day. The stripe waste should be gathered four times a day. The cards should be stripped (doffers and cylin- ders) three times a day and ground once a month, except in the case of accidents, when they should be ground until the wire is level and sharp. Light grinding should always be used. Use as large a doffer as possible, use either one having a 26 or 27 inch diameter. The production of a cfird on this stock should be about 800 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver is then put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. Metallic rolls may be used to great ad- vantage on this grade of stock. The sliver at the front of the finisher draw- ing frame should weigh about 70 grains to the yard. The slubber draws this sliver into .40 hank roving. It is then put through the fly frames. The roving for warp yarns is then taken to the ring spinning room and the rov- ing for filling may be taken to either the ring spinning or the mule room. For this class of goods the filling yarn is generally ri g spun. For a warp frame spinning 20s use the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 2 inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; twist per inch, 21.24; speed of spindle, 9,400 rev- olutions per minute. For a filling frame use a frame having a 2% inches gauge, 1^/^ inches diameter ring, C,V2 inches length of traverse, the yarn having 14.50 turns per in^h, and the speed of the spindles is 7,300 revolu- tions per minute. The warp, yarn is then spooled, warped and put through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. BL.ACK WARP. 15 per cent snlnhnr bla-^k, if for jet blfi^ck, immedi'^1 N N. if for blue black, immedi'^1 N P l^ ppv ^ent sodium sul- phide. 30 per reu* Glnnber's, 3 per cent soda ash. Dye'' in a w^rn dyeing ma- chine. After the r>'or>Hs are woven and cleaned with a good soaping and rins- n2 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ing, they are sent to the printer and printed with different patterns and styles, to imitate mixed woolen fab- rics, and are then finished and made up like woolen goods. BAYADERE MADE ENTIRELY OF MERCERIZED COTTON. In a previous article a descrip- tion was given of a "bayadere" fabric, in which the materials of which it was constructed were cotton, worsted and silk and whose foundation was a "rep" weave. Fig. 1. It is now intended to show another "bayadere" fabric, but v/hich is com- posed entirely of mercerized cotton and whose structure is based upon the plain weave, the finished width 36 inches and the weight 4% ounces per finished yard. Such a fabric is shown in Fig. 1, which is a very good illustration of this class of patterns, whose chief feature is the zigzag stripe extending across the cloth in the direction of the weft. The size and elaborate effect of this pattern make it resemble a jacquard effect, but it can in fact be produced on a comparatively low number of har- nesses. Fig. 2 shows the full design, which is complete on 64 warp threads and 48 picks. As before mentioned.the plain weave is used as the BASIS OF THE FULL DESIGN, and between the stripes (ground) all the threads are interlaced on the plain weave and form a single cloth; but the stripes themselves (figure) are formed by lowering all the fine threads (marked \ at top of full design, Fig. 2) and raising all the coarse threads (marked . ) to the surface of the cloth and thus forming a double cloth, with each of the two single cloths thus formed interlaced with the plain weave, throughout the stripe or baya- dere. Fig. 3 illustrates the drawing-in draft, which reauires 18 shafts, 10 for the ground and 8 for the figure threads. Fig 4 shows the reeding pan. The material and arrangement of the threads are as follows: Warp: 6 threads 2-40s blue mercer- ized cotton (one in a heddle), four threads 2-20s black mercerized cotton (two in a heddle); total, 10 threads in one repeat of pattern. 950 reed — 38 ¥2 inches wide to finish sy inches, 40 picks per inch. Filling: 6 picks 2-40s blue mercer- ized cotton (single), 2 picks 2-20s black mercerized cotton (double); total, 8 picks in one repeat of pattern. Fig. 5 shows the chain draft re- quired. The back picks must positive- ly come on the bars marked. It -will be noted that the black 2-20s cotton used in the warp is introduced 2 threads in one heddle, and in the weft the same yarn is wound double, or two threads on a bobbin, which is done for the following reason: In many cloths from which this particular pat- tern was derived the black cotton used Avas very much heavier, that is, about 2-1 Os or 2-12s, with one thread introduced in one heddle, instead of two threads, which made the fabric appear very coarse and open in tex- ture; therefore, by using two threads of 2-20s the same weight of j^arn is employed, but being finer and the two threads lying side by side, the cloth is gi\en a much finer and closer tex- ture. COLORS. In cloths of this description the bay- adere stripe is generally black, which gives very great freedom in the choice of colors for the ground, as any good color may be combined with black, without any danger of the other suf- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 113 ■■■ ^ % m ■■■■iiaB.. ■■■■■■■■■■■«■• ■ I ■. M Ba«B«a* ■■■■■■« jsSgaaaa.B ■■ « ■' ■■■■pa« laaaaaa ■aaaia* ■ ■ ■ ■- aaaaaa* aaaiaaa ■aaaila aa aaa ■■- ■■.-■ .■■■ ■■. a. a. ■■■■■■-■ ■!■ laa^ a ■•■a ' a a - a a a - aaa aaaa aaaaaaa . a i. ii' a. B" Fig, 2. annnnnannnnnnnnnng DQDaDDDanaQaDDnaDa anDDDaanaaaaaQaaaa DDanDaaDDaGDDDDaDa DaDDnnnaaanDDaaDDD DGaaaDDDDDDDDDnaDa oaaQaaaaaDoaaamaozi DDaaDDaDDnDDDnnana DDDDaaaaDDDDDnDDaa DaaaaaaaaDDnDDaDon naaaaaaao naDanaQDa DOnnDDDDODDDDaDDDn nnanDDDDGDnaaDDDDa nnDDDDnnanDnDaDDaa nnnnDnnDDDDDBDnDau nnnnDnnnnDDDDBDann □aaananDnannDDnDDa naaHDDDDDDDnnoaaDa nDnOaDDDDDBDDDDDDn DDnnDDDDDnDaDnDDan nDDDaaDDDoaDDDnann □DaDDaDna oomaanaoa aaaaaaaaa amacanaaa □DnaaDDDCi nnaDDaDan aaaoDann t noDDGDnnc! □aaDDnnan DDDonnDDa Daanamaa DCOoDDL aa naaganaaa aDnDnaaDn HaDaaannanDDnnnDDa □□□□□□DDQODnDDOnDn DDngaaanaDDDDnDDnn DDODDDnaaaQDnDDnan HaaaaanDaanDapDaDD DBDDDnDDaDnciDtDnana GDogDanDanannDDann DanDDnannnnannnnDD naagnDnnacanDnnoDa nanannann QnaaDnnnD DaaDaannnnannDnnan DDagnaanDnnanDnnDa DnanaananaDnonnnna naaa JnnnDnnnnnDDCin nnngaannanaDannaaa onaaaannnnDDnanDDn nagggnnaanuDaDnDDD DDagnnonn DDananann ODcaDannnnDDaDDDDn DGanannnnnnnDBDnDn nnananGDnnnnoDoDDn nannaBnnGDDDnDDQDn nnDDnannGnnni naaun naaannnnannnaDnBDa □nDDnDDGnnnnaDBDDn DanaDDnannDananana DDaDnannnnonDnanan naaaDDnnnnnonDnann nannanaanannGPDnna nmnnanaannnnoDDDn nnnnnDDnnnnDDonnan nDannDDnnnnnDDGnDa naannnnnnnnnnDaDaa DnnnnanDaDoanDaDna □nnannnnnDDnaDDDan DDaaDDnDDDaaaanDaB aa aa DH na aa ■H aa na . aa c D" d □■ - aa ^ aa-i' bfl Sa .• h BO ft, cu Da Chain Draft. GGaaaBaaaaDBGBGBGB - aaaaaaaaGGaGBaBaBa - aBGaaaGaaaGaaaDBBB aaaaaaaaaaacBGflGBa aBaaaaGBaaGaGBGaBB BaaaaGaGaaaGaGBGaa GaaaaBGiGBGacBGaaa saaaaaaa aGBGBGacBB aaaaaaaa DaaaGBCBaa ■ aaaaaaGanGBGacBGBG • GaaaaaaaGaGBaBBBBa BGaaaaaaBaaGBaaBBB GBGaaaGaa aaaaaB BBB BaBGaaagaaBGaGBBBB GBGBaaaiaaGBGBBBta BaflGaaaGBGBGaaaBaa GaaaaaaaaGGBGaGBDa • aaaaaGaaaaaaaaBCBD ■ GBaaaBGaGBGaaaaBaa BaBGaGBGBDBGBBBBBB aBGaaaaaa BGBBBBBaa BaBGaaBGaGBCBBBBBB GaGaaaJBGaGBBBBaaa aaaaaaBGaGaGaaBBBB aaaaaaaa DaDBcaCBGB • BaaGaaaaaDaaBcBDaa ■ GaaBDaaaaaBBBBBflGB aaaaBGBG BGBBBaBBBG aaGaGBiBDBBBBBiaaB BaBGaaaaaGBBa bbbbg LBaaaaaBOBBBBBBBLiB BaaaBGBGaaBaeaBBaG aGGaGaGBDBGBGBDBCa • naDaaaaaBGaGBDaGBG ■ Gaaaaaaaa aBaaanaaa BGaaaGaaBGaBBBBDaa GBaaGBGBGBaBBBDBGB BaBaaaBGBGBBBaBGBG GaGBGaaanBaaaBGBGB aaaGhGaa BaaBBBBaaa GaaaaBaBaBaacaaaDB - GGGaBaaainacaGBGBa- GaaBGBaaaaBBGBGBca B IBaaaaGaGBBBGBGBG GaaBaaaBGaaacaGBGB BGaaaaaGBGBaBGaGBa aaaaGaaaaBBBrBrBaa aGBaBaaGBGBaKGBGBG Fi^-. 5. 114 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY., fering by being placed in juxtaposi- tion. THE REQUIRED LOOM. In selecting the kind of loom for weaving the above cloth, almost any make of loom can bo used which will carry 20 shafts and have the capacity of carrying at least 2 shuttles. FINISH. A dry finish only is required for this fabric and the process is as fol- lows: After being burled and mended the cloth is brushed aid steamed and then pressed so as to give as much lus- tre as possible. After being rolled, the cloth i? then ready for shipment. Dyeing Particulars. PURPLE. On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant, dye in iresh bath, 1 per cent methylviolet 3R. On tannine mordanted yarn dye with Vs per cent rhodamine 5G, which dyes a'pinlc; for a rose use 2 per cent color. SCARLET. 3 per cent diamine scarlet, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. CHINA BLUE. On tannine mordanted yarn dye 1 per cent new methylene blue GG. SKY BLUE. 3 per cent diamine sky blue, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. NAV^' BLUE. 4 per cent diamine black B H, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. TURQUOISE BLUE. On a tannine mordant dye 1% per cent turquoise blue G. EMERALD GRI3EN. On a tannine mordant dye 2 per cent emerald green cryst. LIGlTT BROWN. % per cent diamine fast yellow B, 1 per ce-'t diamine brown B, 20 per cenc Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. BROWN. 2 per cent tetrazo brown R, 1 per cent tetrazo brown G G, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. RED. 4 per cent benzo fast red 4 B S, 30 per cent Gauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 2 per cent tetrazo lilac R, SO per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. ORANGE. 2 per cent tetrazo orange TR, 30 per Glauber's, 3 per cgnt sal soda. SLATE. y2 per cent diamine black B H, % per cent oxydiamine black A, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda. PIQDE. Pique is a heavy cotton material woven in corded or figured effects. The goods are used for such purposes as ■fflDBsaBsaa^a GaanDBDaaDDB ■anaaDaaaaaa aaaasaaaaasa anmaamnamaam aaaaaaaacaua BfflaaDaasaaDa anaDDaDDanna aonannannaaa Fig. 2. ladies' so-called tailor-made suits,vest- ings, shirt fronts, cravats, bedspreads aid the like. The plainest and most common fab- rics of pique are those in which the pattern consists of straight cords ex- tending across the cloth in the direc- tion of the weft. In THE CONSTRUCTION of these fabrics both a face and a back warp are required and the cords are produced by all the back w?rp threads being raised at in- tervals of 6, 8, etc., picks over two or more picks of the face cloth.which has a tendency to draw down on the sur- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 115 face of the fabric. The goods are al- cloths, as illustrated by the diagram ways woven white and no colors are Fig. 3. See dots o. ever used. In the lightest and cheapest grd,des. The face warp threads are generally neither any wadding nor back picks finer than the back warp threads and are used. In this case the back warp are in the proportion of two threads threads float on the back of the fabric, for the face and one thread for the except v/hen raisingover the face picks back. to form the cord. Design. In the diagram Fig. 1, which is a FIGURED PIQUE, sectional cut of a fabric woven with in the figured pique the binding of the design Fig. 2, the heavy black Imes the back warp threads into the face represent the back warp threads, and cloth is not done in straight lines as in it \^ill be noticed that they are raised the plain pique, but the binding nointa over two of the face picks, represented are introduced so as to form figures ^^ml^\^°^^^^ *^i"^f ^•^^ . ""^'^ese fabrics are woven 'in the white The heavy dots (.) represent the and the figures are purely the result back picks, which interlace with the of binding the face and back cloths Drawing-in-Draft. QdaddQanncnnDanDnnnDannDDnaDnDnDanaDDDnaDnnnnnaDnnnnBa DanaaGDaaaaanDoanDnnnDDnnnnDDanDnDDDDDnanDDDDnaDDBDnGn naDnn-inanaaaDnDnDnDaDDannDnunDDDDDDDnDuaDnDnnnBnnDnaDa DanaziannanDanaananannaaDaannDDannnnDaDnaanaHnnDDnnGDna nannnaDadJnanDaaDnDDnnnannnnDnnaDnnanDnDBDDaanDDaaDDnn naGaaDnnnnnDaDananjnnaannnanDDannDaDDHDDnnnDnDDDaDnDnn anaaD^naaaDQnaaaDnDnnaannaDaDaannDBaannnaannDDODDDDaaa □nDanDaaDnanaanaDDDanaannnanaaDBDCDcnDnDDnDnnnnnananna naaanannnaDnanDnDaDDDnnDnDDaBnaannnDnnnnnaDnDDDDDnDanD DDnaaDannDnnnaDnan nDDnnnBDaDanDnanaDDnaDDDnnnDDnDnaan DaonanaaDanDaDnnuDciDaDBnnDDDnDnnnnanDDDnDDDnDnDDDDDnDa DDanDmnDnnnnDcmnnnBannaaDannnDDnDnDonDnaDannanDDDDnna DanonanDnDDnnninBDnnnnnnaDaDaDaDDnnnDDananDDDDnnnnDnnD naaannnnonnnnBanGnDnDDDnnnnnnnnnDnnnnnnDDnDaDnannDnnaD □DnaJDnnDnBDnanDDnaDnDnDnDnDaDnnaaDDDnanDnnnDnanDnnDnn DnaDaaaBDnanDanaaanannnnnnnnnDDDDnnnnnDnnnDnDnaDDnnnDa DanaHaaannanaDDGnnDnnannaaDDDDnaDnDnnnnnnnnDnDnDDnDaDa DBmnnnnDnDnnnonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnoDDGnannDannnDnnnnnnDDn DannDBnGnnnBDDnnGBnnDnnBnnnnnBnnnnDBnnnnDBnnnDnBDnnnnB nDDnDaDanBnnDnnBnDDonBnnDDnBDanDDBnnnnDBnunnDBnnonDBna DnBannDnBaDaDnBnDaanBDanoDBDnDnDBDnnDDBnnnDDBnDnnDBDnn BDDnDaBDDaDDBanaDDBDDnnDBauaDDBDDDDaBDDDDnBDnaDDBDDDDD Reeding- Plan. annBBaannBBBDnnBBanDaBBBnaGBBBndnBBBDnnBBBDnDBBBDDaBBB BBBaaaBBBaaDBBBaaDBBBaaDBBBaaaBBBDaDaBBaoDBBBaaaBBBaDa Fig. 5. back warp threads only. The fine lines together. As a result of this method represent the face warp threads. of binding, the cloth is characterized In the heavier and better grades of by the embossed appearance of the pique, heavy or coarse picks, called figures. In the best grades heavy- wadding, are used to increase the wadding picks are used and these tend ■weight and also to give more promi- to greatly heighten the raised effect nence to the cord effect. They are in- of the figures. The effect produced Is troduced between the face and back about the same as when two light IW A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cloths are laid together with wadding between and then stitched together on a sewing machine, the stitching being in the form of figures. White Marseilles bedspreads are the highest and most elaborate form of piques, and in these the pattern covers the entire spread. Geometrical figures, birds, foliage and most every conceiv- able manner of form are used, and all being embossed, the ultimate effect is very fine. In the example which we shall take, a small figure pique is given, with the following for the ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC: Width of warp in reed (Mthout sel- vedge), 38 inches; width of fabric fin- ished, 36 inches; ends per inch, 100; ends in warp, 3,600—1,200x3 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 Chain Draft. ■■■■^fjfflumufflufflUEnfflDfflnBa ■■■■□□□naDuDDnnODDDDDD— ■ ■■■nBnfBnwnmn^nmrH^n^Hfe^ gBDBDDEBDfflGnaDDnDnnDnnn ■■■■gannDDnnDnnDDDDDDn- ■nBDnnnfflDSDDDnDDDDnanD ■■■■®nran«nranranmMmmmHmM I ucDODDfflDfflnnnaaDnnan ■nfflnfflnfflnmnmnmnmF^yMy ■uuuuuutMuwuuauunnnn c3 ■■■■DDnrjoaonannDDDDnm •^ ■■■■GnnnnnnDDonnnanoDa ■DBaaDDnnaoGonanDnnfflas— aBnannaaDDaannDnnDanan •■■■naDnDnDnnDnnnnnnaH 'ISBaSRSRo^DDDaaanfflnfflnn- •■■■fflnfflnmnmnmnmr-mnmAmH '■■■■fflusufflD'BnfflasGEananBn ' 2S25RRRRSHHapnnafflnfflnnD !252RRa°°D°aannfflafflaDDn- ■■■■nfflnsnmnfflnmnmnmncnny^ '2S2!RRRR°™"°§§™§™B§ fiSSSSSBSSSSSSg^ySBBSBH- Fig. 6. per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, 9% ounces; shrinkage of fabric in length during finishing, 2 per cent; finished weight 9 ounces. Dressing: 3 threads in pattern. One thread l-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 thread. 2-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 thread, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; equals 3. Filling: 4 piclcs repeat of pattern, 168 picks per inch. One pick, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; 1 pick l-9s white carded peeler cotton; 2 picks, l-30s white carded peeler cotton; equals 4. In Fig. 4 is shoMm the full design. Fig. 5 illustrates the drawing-in draft on 22 harnesses — 4 required for the face warp threads and 18 for the back warp threads. The reeding plan is also given. Fig. 6 is the required chain draft. LOOM REQUIRED. For the plain pique a dobby loom having drop boxes and from 4 to 16 shafts only is required, but for the fig- ured pique a loom of more intricate construction is required and the Crompton & Knowles Loom Company build a loom especially adapted for the purpose. Their jacquard machine, which is of the rise and drop type, is especially adapted for the weaving of Marseilles quilts, and has features that dispense with the so-called "plain card," using only the figure card. FINISHING. These fabrics^, after being scoured and bleached, are hot pressed, rolled or folded, and are then ready for ship- ment. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Pique is made up in various ways and is constructed of yarns, the count of which varies from very coarse to very fine. The fabric which is describ- ed is considered as being made up of l-30s and 2-30s in the warp and l-30s and l-9s in the filling. For making this grade of cloth the machinery found in the second division of mills w^ould be used. I THE COTTON USED would be a good grade of "peeler," of about 1 5-16th inches staple. This cotton would be brought from the storehouse and each bale sampled; all those bales not up to sample should be laid one side. The bales of the same length of staple should be opened and fed to the bale breaker alternately from each bale in small lots at a time. From the bale breaker the cotton is carried to the bins by lattice work or by trunking and a blow^er and fan. The mixing should be allowed to stand in the bins as long as possible before be- ing used, so that the cotton will be free from moisture. It is at this point that the J GOOD WASTE from the machines up to the slub- ber is mixed in, the sliver being torn into short lengths before - being thrown into the mixing. The raw stock is put through an opener and either two or three processes of pick- ing. If three processes of picking are used for the intermediate picker the same particulars are followed as in the case of the finisher except where not- ed. The hopper of the opener should be always kept more than half full of raw stock, so as to feed an even sheet of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 117 cotton to the breaker picker. The speed of a porcupine beater of this ma- chine should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute. The speed of a two-bladed rigid type beater for the breaker pick- er should be 1,500 revolutions per minute, the fan speed being 1,400 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. If an inter- mediate picker is used, the laps are doubled four into one and the TOTAL WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should be 37 pounds, or a 13-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. At this point the cut rov- ing waste is mixed in, in the propor- tion of one lap of waste to three laps of raw stock. The speed of the beater should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives tne cotton passing through the machine about 42 beats or blows per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 35 pounds, or a 12%-ounce lap. Look out for your fan drafts to see that they are properly regulated so as to obtain an even lap. The laps are then put up at the card. THE CARD should have a draft of not more than 100. The count of wire fillet used should be medium, the wire for the tops and doffer beiing one number finer than for the cylinder. The card should be ground at least once a month and should be stripped three times a day. The flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. Use a large doffer, either 26 or 27 inches in diameter. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard, the pro- duction for a week of 60 hours being 750 pounds. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing frames, the speed of the front roll being 350 revo- lutions per minute. The doublings are 6 into 1. The draft of the first inter- mediate is about 5.5, the second 5.75, and the third 5.75; the sliver weigh- ing at the front of the finisher about 72 grains per yard. The sliver is then put up at the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving is then put through TWO PROCESSES OF FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at the first interme- diate being 2.00 and at the second be- ing 7.50. This makes all the roving for this cloth, except for the 9s. This is made from a 2.00 hank roving. The roving for warp yarns is taken to the spinning room and made into 30s yarn. From here it is spooled and part of it twisted into 2-30s yarn, after which it is warped and slashed. The filling yarn may eitter be mule or ring spun. We will consider this yarn to be ring spun. The particulars to use for No. 30s would be as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring,l% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spindle, 8,300 revolutions per minute; to spin 9s use 1%-inch di- ameter ring, 7-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per minute. Part of the 30s yarn is twisted into 2-30s. Dyeing Particulars. PEARL. Dye in the jigger dyeing machine with 15 gallons liquor, 50 pounds weight of goods,175 degrees F.,one-half pound of soda ash, one-half pound sul- phide sodium, 1 pound common salt, 3 ounces immedial black V ex., 1 ounce immedial brown B. Run the goods for 40 minutes; add in two portions the dyestuffs; rinse and aftertreat with % per cent bichromate potash, % per cent sulphate copper, at 170 degrees F., and rinse well. Give a weak soap- ing if required. CREAM. Dye with the same proportions as for pearl, and in the same way, with one- half ounce immedial yellow D, one ounce immedial cutch G. BUFF. Dye with same proportions as pearl, with 6 ounces immedial bronze A. LIGHT SLATE. Dye with same proportions as pearl, 6 ounces immedial black V. DRAB. As light slate; 2 ounces immedial black V; 6 ounces immedial bronze A. LIGHT BROWN. On the jigger,as pearl; 3 per cent im- medial cutch G, 3 per cent sodium sul- phide, 3 per cent soda ash, 15 per cent common salt. LIGHT OLIVE DRAB. Dye as pearl; one-half pound pyro- gene yellow M; 14 ounces pyrogene olive iST; 4 ounces pyrogene cutch 2G; aftertreat as pearl. 118 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. MADRAS GINGHAM, Madras gingham is distinctly a shirt- ing fabric and is an article of fine qual- ity. Zephyr gingham is a dress ging- hana and is lighter and of softer finish than the madras gingham. Madras gingham is distinguished from the common gingham by the fine- ness of the texture and the richness of the patterns employed. In the com- mon gingham the plain weave is chiefly used and the patterns consist only of stripes and checks formed by contrast- ing colors — principally white with some other color — and is chiefly made on roller looms. The Fabric. 1 1 11 i .S.=,>K„ -*«l Fi£ In the madras ginghams VARIOUS WEAVES ARE USED in combination with the plain weave which is always used for the ground, while very often leno weaves are in- troduced for ornamentation. The number of colors used in con- junction with white often reaches as high as flve and six in a single pattern, while printed yarns are extensively used with fine effect. Fig. 1 is a very neat illustration of a madras gingham in a leno stripe effect. The chief features of this pattern are the leno diamond stripe on a back- ground of old rose, and the heavy cords of white and of tan. The blue stripe between the white cords is also a prominent feature. ANALYSIS OF THE FABRIC. Width of warp in reed (selvedge in- cluded), 29% inches; width of fabric, finished, 28 inches; size of reed re- quired, 1,600 — ends per dent, 2 and 3; ends in warp, 2,616. Take-up of warp during weaving as follows: l-50s plain weave, 1% per cent; 3-50s cords, per cent; 3-50s leno whip threads, 50 per cent. Number of beams required, 3 (on account of the various take-ups). Weight of fabric per yard from loom, 1% ounces. Shrinkage of fabric in length during finishing, 2 per cent. Finished weight, 1.92 ounces. Pattern for beaming: 136 threads per pattern. 19 repeats of pattern in warp. X 4 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. * 1 thread 3-50 white cotton. X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 6 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s' white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 6 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton as 1. X 8 threads l-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. * 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s fr. blue cotton. X 10 threads l-50s white cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s tan cotton. 1 thread 3-50s white cotton. X 2 threads l-50s white cotton. Total 136 threads. Put threads marked x on bottom beam. Put threads marked on middle beam. Put threads marked * on top beam. l-50s cotton must be well sized. Number of threads of each color In A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY, V m A- «i aiJ.iJ.s 'iWi%^ IK■:■^•^XJS fe 119 DM ■a . Bin e, BO aj DM 3 ■Sf'H ■D 120 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. pattern: l-50s white, 84; l-50s tan, 28; 1-50S fr. blue, 8; 3-50s white, 16; total, 136. Number of threads of each color in warp: l-50s white, 1,628; l-50s tan, 532; l-SOs fr. blue, 152; 3-50s white, 304: total. 2,616. Filling: 72 picks per inch; all white l-60s cotton. The full design is illustrated at Fig. 2, and is complete on 136 warp threads and 12 picks. The drawing-in draft is illustrated at Fig. 3, and is complete on 7 harnesses and 2 doup shafts. Fig. 4 is the reeding plan. Fig. 5 is the harness chain draft for 12 bars. THE LOOM REQUIRED. Ordinarily to produce a leno fabric like the madras cloth above analyzed a close shed loom is required, and with the harnesses raising and lowering at every pick it necessarily requires a comparatively slow speed; but the Crompton & Knowles Loom Company build a dobby (open shed) known Chain Draft DnBCBDBDJ a mmauamaaa m DDBDBDBDD Dg aaaBDBDBD ng -fflnBDBOBDffl D-3 gnaDBDBDBn dM iSnnBDBDBnn d" fflfflDBDBann eb nnBDBDBDn n naDBDBDBn n fflDBDBnBDffi D pieces are put in a hydraulic press and submitted to a pressure of many tons weight. They are then labeled and papered and are then ready for shipment. Fis 5. as the Stafford dobby, which is especial- ly adapted for the weaving of leno cloths and all descriptions of cotton goods that can be produced on 20 har- nesses, which is the limit of its capac- ity. This is the best loom that is on the market to-day for weaving these goods. The loom should be built with a 42-inch reed space and with 4x4 boxes. FINISH REQUIRED. After these goods are received from the looms they must be examined care- fully and all spots of dirt and grease removed, the selvedges trimmed and all runners (that is, filling pulling in at the sides) and also bunches and large knots must be taken out. They are then run through a starch- ing machine and given a medium starching. They are then run through a calen- der, which flattens out the threads and removes all wrinkles and gives the cloth a much smoother surface, besides giving it an appearance of finer tex- ture. After measuring and rolling, the Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery required to make the yarns for madras ginghams will be found in mills of the second division, although mills of the third division (as given in a previous lesson) also make this grade of yarn. THE COUNT OF YARN which we will consider in making this class of goods is l-50s and 3-50s for the warp yarns and l-60s for the filling. This stock is made out of a good grade of cotton, the staple of which is about 1% inches to 1% inches in length. The cotton is brought to the picker room and sampled and graded by the over- seer in charge of the card room, al- though in large mills when a cotto i sampler is employed he also is present at mixing time. The bales of cotton are sampled and all those of the same length are placed together. After the lot is sampled, a few (four or five) bales are placed around the bale breaker and fed to this machine, a small lot being taken from each bale alternately, until all the cotton is gone. The bagging which comes around the cotton is then placed in a pile, where later it will be picked clean of all cotton and then it is placed with other bagging, which is sold. The ties which bind the bales are also sold. THE BALE BREAKER. The draft of a bale breaker is quite large, but as the cotton is in large lumps it only acts on it by pulling it apart so that a good deal of the draft is lost. • The production of a bale breaker is from 80,000 to 90,000 pounds per week. The cotton is conveyed by endless lattices from the bale breaker to the bins; sometimes a blower and trunks are used in connection with the lat- tices. Where one is used it has been found that the cotton is in better shape to work and does not have to be dried out as long in the bins. Large mixings should always be used for the reasons given in previous articles. At the bins the sliver waste of the same length and grade of cotton is mixed into the raw stock. As this is generally done by the man that col- lects the waste, it is always a gooj^ plan to watch him to see that he puts the waste that he has collected in it& ' A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 121 proper bin. The raw stock for this class of goods is put through a porcu- pine opener and TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING. Keep the hopper of the opener more than half full of raw stock, because by so doing a more even feed will \ie ob- tained and this will help to make an even yarn. The speed of the beater of the opener should be about 1,050 rev- olutions per minute. The cotton is passed up to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. There are two of these rolls, top and bottom, and they present a sheet of cotton to the beater, which is generally of the two-bladed variety. This beater has a speed of about 1,500 revolutions per minute, and the fan a speed of 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is about 40 pounds, or what is called a 16-ounce lap, meaning that each yard of lap weighs 16 ounces. The laps are taken from the breaker picker and put up at the finisher pick- er, the doubling (or number of laps put up) being 4 into 1. It is at this point that the cut roving, of the same length and grade, is mixed in, it hav- ing first been put through a special process, which takes out the twist, and also a picker, which forms into a lap. The proportion of cut waste used is one lap of cut waste to three laps of raw stock. The beater of the finisher picker makes 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of the finisher picker is about 35, or a 12i^-ounce lap for both warp and filling yarn. The lap is put up at THE CARD. The draft of this machine for this class of goods should not be less than 110; the wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 34 wire or No. 110 English count, and on the doffer and top flats No. 35 or No. 20 English count wire should be used. The cards should be ground once every three weeks and stripped (doffer and cylin- der) three times a day. The cards should be thoroughly cleaned twice a day and wiped down twice more. The speed of the cylinder should be 165 revolutions per minute, the licker- in speed 290 revolutions per minute. The top flats should make one revolu- tion every 34 minutes. The weight of the sliver at the front end should be 65 grains, and the production 600 pounds per week of 60 hours. Use a larger diameter doffer, either 26 or 27 inches. On some grades of madras ginghams the filling yarn is combed, but as we have put the cotton in this article through what is called fine card- ing we will consider that both the warp and filling yarns are to be only carded. The sliver is taken from the card and put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING FRAMES. The doublings of these machines are six into one. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing frame is 70 grains. Look out to see that the top rolls are all properly varnished and in good re- pair, or are thoroughly cleaned if me- tallic rolls are used; see that all stop motions are in proper working order and that the help keer the machine running. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. From here it is put through three processes of fly frames and made into 10 hank for 50s count yarn and 12 hank for 60s yarn. In 10-hank roving the hanks made at the different processes are as follows: 2 at first intermediate, 4 hank at sec- ond intermediate and 10 hank at the jack frame. For 12 hank it is 2 hank at first intermediate, 4 hank at second intermediate and 12 hank at the jack frame. The roving for warp yarn is carried to THE RING SPINNING ROOM and spun into 50s yarn on a frame hav- ing the following particulars: 2% inches gauge of frame ; diameter of ring 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 in- ches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolu- tions per minute. This yarn is then spooled and the yarn for the plain weave is then warped and then put through a slasher. The following mix- ing may be used for heavy counts: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 65 pounds; tallow, 6 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil 1% hours. The 50s count yarn for cords and leno whip threads after be- ing spooled is twisted into 3-ply 50s varn on the twister machine. The 12-hank roving for filling yarn may either be ring spun or mule spun. If ring spun, use a frame having the following particulars: for 60s gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 114 inches; length of traverse,5 Inches; speed of spindle, 8,000 revolutions per minute. Dyeing Particulars. YELLOW. 1 per cent tetrazo chlorine yellow GG, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal 122 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. soda; aftertreat with 1/2 per cent blue- stone, Vz per cent chrome. LIGHT ORANGE. 1 per cent tetrazo chlorine orange R, 30 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent blue- stone, y2 per cent chrome. OLD ROSE. % per cent tetrazo chlorine rose, 25 per^cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent bluestone, 14 per cent chrome. LIGHT OLIVE. 4 per cent pyrogene olive N, 4 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent chrome. LIGHT TAN. 4 per cent pyrogene cutch 2G, 4 per cent sulphide soda. 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat with 1 per cent bluestone, 1 per cent chrome. SKY BLUE. Yz per cent diamine sky blue PF, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent sulphate of copper. LILAC. % per cent famine brilliant blue G, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat: V2 per cent sulphate of copper. PEARL. 4 ounces diamine dark blue B, 4 ounces diamine brilliant blue G, 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: Vz per cent sulphate of cop- per. BUFF. 2 ounces diamine catechine 3 G, 2 ounces diamine catechine B. 25 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: % per cent sulphate of copp6r, % per cent chrome. LIGHT BROWN. 10 per cent katigen yellow brown GG, 2 per cent katigen brown V, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent salt; aftertreat: 4 per cent bluestone, 4 per cent chrome, 3 per cent acetic acid- DARK BROWN. 5 per cent diamine catechine B, 4 per cent diamine catechine G, 30 per cent salt, 3 per cent sal soda; aftertreat: 3 per cent bluestone, 3 per chrome. RED BROWN. 5 per cent diamine brown M, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; af- tertreat: 2 per cent bluestone, 2 per cent chrome. PINK. V2 per cent benzo fast pink, 2 B L, 20 per cent Glauber's, 2 per cent sal soda. RED. 6 per cent primuline, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazo- tize and develop with beta naphthol. WINE. As red. Diazotize and develop with Bordeaux developer. SLATE. 2 per cent diamine jet black SS, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda, aftertreat with 3 per cent chrome. BLACK. 6 per cent diamine black B, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent sal soda; diazotize and develop with phenylene diamine. SULPHUR BLACK. 10 per cent immedial black V, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 30 per cent Glau- ber's, 3 per cent soda ash; aftertreat: 3 per cent chrome, 3 per cent bluestone, 3 per cent acetic acid. LIGHT GREEN. On tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye: 1 per cent new methylene blue GG, 1 per cent thioflavine T. BLUE. On tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye: 2 per cent new methy- lene blue GG. INDIGO BLUE. 10 per cent immedial indone 3 B, 10 per cent sulphide soda, 30 per cent Glauber's, 3 per cent soda ash; after- treat: 3 per cent sulphate of copper. ■♦ ♦ » ETAMINE. An etamine is a thin, slightly glossy fabric used principally for women's dress goods. Being a very popular ma- terial for summer wear, it is usually made in what is commonly known as a piece dyed fabric, that is, woven with undyed yarn. A good reason for mak- ing it a piece dyed fabric is that it is much cheaper than if the yarn is dyed previous to the weaving. Etamines are dyed in almost any color. Blue, black, red and various shades of drabs seem to be very popular. The inter- lacing of the warp and weft is on the one and one order, or plain weave. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 123 See design, Fig. 1. The openness or transparency of the fabric is due part- ly to the smooth, hard-twisted yarn and partly to the weave. Etamines were originally made with worsted yarns, which, of course, are much more expensive; however, if a good quality of cotton is used there is little difference in appearance between worsted and cotton etamines. The dif- ference would be chiefly in the wearing quality, worsted of course being more durable. The principal feature of an etamine is to have it a crisp,glossy and an open fabric. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 27% inches; width of fabric finished, 26 inches. Reeed, 600 — 2 ends per dent. Total ends in warp 740, including sel- vedge. Take-up of warp during weav- ing, 12 per cent. Weight of fabric from loom, 3 ounces per yard; weight of fabric, finished, 3 ounces per yard. No shrinkage during the finishing process, WARPING PLAN. 1-lOs carded peeler cotton, hard twist, 20 turns per inch, a left-hand twist. FILLING PLAN. 28 picks per inch finished; 28 picks per inch in. loom; 1-lOs carded peeler cotton, hard twist, 15 turns per inch, a left-hand twist. Notice that warp and weft are both the same twist, that is, both are a left twist. This is an important factor which cannot be ignored in making an open or transparent fabric. The warp is drawn in straight, that is, 1, 2, 3, 4 (see Fig. 3.), until all the harnesses are used; four harnesses would be quite enough for a fabric of this character; there being but 26 ends per inch would cause no overcrowding of heddles. Fig. 3 is the reeding plan. Fig. 4 shows the chain draft for a dob- by loom. LOOM REQUIRED. This character of fabric could be woven on any roller or dobby loom, a roller loom being preferable, princi- pally on account of the comparatively low rate of expense the latter could be operated at. FINISH. Etamines, as before mentioned, are usually woven with undyed yarns, or in the gray. The cloth, after reaching the dyehouse, is first subjected to a scouring process, then dyed, after which it is given a medium sizing; then it is calendered, which in a great measure accentuates the gloss upon the fabric and also imparts to it the crisp feeling which characterizes an etamine. It is then measured.rolled and paper- ed, after which it is ready for the mer- chant. Cotton etamine sells from 12 cents to 20 cents per yard. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The cloth of which the weaving par- ticulars have been given is some- times made of all cotton yarn or a combination of cotton and wool or cot- ton and linen, or a combination of wool, silk linen and cotton fibres. For the carding and spinning particulars of this lesson we will consider that the fabric is made up of cotton yarns in both the warp and filling. The count of the yarn we will con- sider to be 10s. THE YARNS for this class of cloth may be made in either the first or second division Full Deiiga Dmamamam mamamamo amamDmam mcmattama DiDBoanB ■aaaiDBD Fig. 1. rrn-sD'^DB DGBDC'DBa D»aDnBDD BDnnBDDD Fig. 2. Reed Plan nDBB^OBB BBDDBBDD Fig. 3. Chain Draft U3ma DBDB BDBD DBDB BrBD DBOB BDBD Fig. 4. of mills, as given in a previous article. Generally, however, the mill of the sec- ond division is used. The cotton used would be peeler of about IVi inches length of staple. A number of bales (enough for a mixing) should be brought from the cotton shed and placed in the picker room. The over- seer should sample each of the bales and those not up to staple should be placed to one side. Several of the other bales should be placed around the bale breaker and a little fed to the breaker from each bale alternately This will help to produce a MORE EVEN MIXING, which will help to give a more evenly finished yarn. The bales that have been laid aside should either be used in a cheaper mixture or should be shown to the cotton broker and either returned or have an allowance made for them. The bale breaker should be kept on this cotton until it is all put through. The cotton is conveyed from 124 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the bale breaker to the mixing bin by endless lattices,which is the old meth- od, or by having a blower and trunking and an endless lattice as is the newer and more modern method. When a blower is used in conjunc- tion with the bale breaker the cotton is in a more dried out condition when it reaches the bin and consequently it does not have to stand as long to dry out before using. A blower will pay for its first cost many times over. At the mixing bin the good waste from all machines up to the slubber is mixed in as it is collected. The cotton is next fed to the opener and WHEN A BLOWER IS USED. passed through two processes of pick- ing when the cotton is mixed by hand. These processes of picking are gener- ally used. A three-process picking and an opener are given, but when two processes are used all that is necessary to do is to drop the second or interme- diate process and use the particulars of the breaker and finisher picker. A porcupine beater is generally used in connection with the opener and this has a speed of about 975 revolutions per minute. The cotton passes from the opener to the breaker picker and after passing the feed rolls it comes in contact with the beater.which is generally of a rigid two-bladed type, the speed of which is about 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total WEIGHT OP THE LAPS at the front of the breaker picker is about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker, the beater of this picker making 1,450 revolutions per minute and the total weight of the lap being 37 pounds or about a 12- ounce lap. The doublings at the fin- isher picker are four into one, the speed of the beater 1.450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it 42 beats per minute. It is at this point that the cut rov- ing of peeler stock of the same length is mixed in, in the proportion of one lap of roving waste to three laps of good cotton. The total weight of the cotton lap at the front for this class of goods is 35 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. The next machine through which the cotton passes is THE CARD, This machine for this class of goods has a draft of about 90. The cards should be stripped three times a day and should be ground at least once a month. The flats make one complete- revolution every 35 miautes. The pro- ductioa should be about 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains. Use as large a doffer as pos- sible, either of a 26 or 27 inch diameter. The carded sliver is thei put through three processes of drawing, the weight of the sliver at each process being as follows: 77 grains at breaker drawing, 76 grains at intermediate and 72 grains at finisher drawing, the doubling at each process being six into one. On this class of goods metallic top rolls may be used to good advantage. The sliver is next put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. The settings of the rolls at the slubber for this length of staple should be as fol- lows: Front roll to middle, 1% inches; middle roll to back, 2 inches. The cot- ton is then passed through ONE PROCESS OP PLY FRAMES and made into 2 hank roving. The roving for warp yarn is taken to the spinning room and made into 10s yarn. The following particulars are used on the warp frame: Gauge of spindle, 3 in.; diameter of ring, 2 inches; length of traverse, 7 inches; speed of spindles, 8,600 revolutions per minute. The rov- ing for the filling yarn may be either mule spun or, as is generally the case, ring spun. When ring spun, use the following particulars for filling frame spinning: 10s yarn, gauge of spindle, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 7 inches (because the filling yarn for this fabric has sufficient twist put in to stand this length of traverse), speed of spindles, 6,400 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Partifeulars. The fabric is dyed on the jig ma- chine. BLACK. 15 per cent immedial black N N, 15 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse well, and give a soap bath. BLUE. 5 per cent immedial indone B, 5 per cent sulphide sodium, 2 per cent soda ash, 25 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and top with 8 ounces methylene blue B, 1 pint acetic acid. BROWN. 6 per cent immedial brown B, 4 per A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 125 cent immedial yellow D, 10 per cent sulphide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinise and give a soap bath. GREEN. 4 per cent immedial yellow D, 3 per cent immedial indone B, 7 per cent sul- phide sodium, 3 per cent soda ash, 30 per cent Glauber's salt; rinse and give a soap bath. BATISTE. Batiste as the name implies, is of French origin, commercially under- stood to mean a light translucent cloth, made from a fine quality of combed cotton yarn, ranging in width from 32 inches to 45 inches.' There is likewise a gradual variation in qualities, ranging from a compara- tively coarse to a very fine fabric. The variations of the different qual- ities will be more apparent when we consider their commercial value. It may be of interest to our readers to note the retail prices. Cotton batiste retails at from 12% cents in 32-inch widths to 50 cents in 45-inch width per yard. The variety of qualities will suggest some idea of the utility of the fabric. Its uses are even more varied than are tihe qualities. The finer grades of batiste are used for dress goods, all kinds of lingerie for summer wear, pillow shams, etc., while the cheaper grades are extensive- ly used for linings in washable and unwashable shirtwaists. In this article we are confining our- selves to bleached cotton batiste, re- serving the linen and colored for some future discussion. Batiste is woven in the gray, that is, with yarn direct from the spinning frame, with the exception that the warp yam is well sized, in order to bet- ter stand the strain to which the yam is subjected during the weaving process. We will consider, first, a very fine bleached cotton batiste, of a quality made 45 inches in width, and then a very cheap grade of bleached cotton batiste, made 32 inches in width. The analysis will readily show the vast difference in these two qualities. FINE BLEACHED COTTON BATISTE Width of warp in leed, 47. S inches; finish at 45 inches; ends per inch in the cloth from loom, 94; ends per inch finished, 100; ends in warp, 4,500. Take-up of warp during weaving, 10 per cent; weight of fabric per yard from loom. 1.15 ounces; finished weight, 1.4 ounces. The difference in weight between fab- ric from loom and finished fabric is about 20 per cent, the finished goods having taken on 20 per cent of sizing material. For adding weight to cloth, China clay is used. The proportions to use depend on the character of finish de- sired. China clay produces a gritty feel, which, however, may be overcome by the use of chloride of magnesium, which is a veyy powerful softener as well as a weighting material. Warping plan: body of warp, l-120s combed Sea Island cotton, selvage 2- 100s cotton. Filling plan: 98 picks of l-200s combed Sea Island cotton. CHEAP-GRADE COTTON BATISTE. W^idth of warp in reed, 34 inches. Finish at 32 inches; ends per inch in cloth in the loom, 54; ends per inch finished, 58; ends in warp, 1,860; 54x1 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 per cent; weight of fabric per yard from loom, .84 ounce; finlslhed weight per yard, 1 ounce; 19 per cent increase in weight. Warping plan: all l-60s combed Sea Island cotton Pilling: 50 picks per inch 1-lOOs combed Sea Island cotton. LOOM REQUIRED. Batiste could be very profitably woven on a Northrop magazine loom. The fabric is a plain weave, no dobby being required. The fineness of the yarn, however, requires the use of string heddles. Wire heddles would cause too many warp breakages. The high running speed of the Northrop loom, together with the number of looms a weaver can tend,10 to 20 looms, brings the weaving cost to a minimum. The warp should be drawn in on four harnesses, skip draw as follows: 1, 3, 2, 4 instead of straight, as 1, 2, 3, 4. Skip draws give less strain to the warp. FINISH. Batistes are given a Swiss finish; after the cloth comes from the loom it is bleached. After the bleaching proc- ess it is sized, then sprinkled or damp- ened, and then calendered, after which it is folded; then it is ready for the market. 126 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The division of mills which make "batiste" is the third of those mills which are equipped with machinery for making fine count yarns. Batiste is made up of extra fine counts of yarn, although these counts vary a great deal according to the grade of fabric want- ed. In order to do this cloth justice it will be better to first describe the processes of a coarse yarn batiste and then a batiste made up of fine yams. We will consider the coarse fabric to be made up of l-60s warp yarn and 1-lOOs filling yarn. The finer grade we will consider made up of l-120s warp yarn and l-200s filling yarn. THE RAW STOCK used for both grades should be Sea Island cotton of from 1% to 2 inches staple, although 1% inches staple is the length generally used. The selec- tion of the cotton is one of the first and by many considered the most im- portant points to look out for. The lot should be sampled bale by bale and all those bales having a staple not up to standard should be thrown out of the mixing. Those bales that are se- lected as O. K., should be placed around the mixing bin and thrown in- to it alternately from each bale until all the bales for the mixing are in. At this point the GOOD SLIVER AND PICKER WASTE are mixed in. Care should be taken to see that the sliver waste is pulled apart iQto short lengths and that no other waste is thrown into the bins by mis- take, because a small lot of short staple waste can cause a great deal of trouble later on. Some overseers use only an opener and one process of picking, others use two processes of picking with the opener. It is the general cus- tom to use only an opener and one process of picking for these fine counts. The general instructions that have been given in regard to openers should be followed. The speed of the beater (rigid type) should be reduced so that the cotton should only receive 29 beats per minute. The weight of the lap at the front end of the picker (when one picker is used) should not exceed 30 pounds and from this range to 25 pounds. A GOOD WEIGHT per yard for the grade of fabric under description is 9 ounces. The machines should be carefully looked into to see that they are all kept clean and prop- erly set. The laps are taken to the cards. At this point, as at a great many others, overseers differ as to the best means of procedure. Some use a large draft at the card and only one process of combing,and others use lower drafts and two processes of combing. In this lesson we will assume a large card draft and one process of combing for all counts of yarn in both grades of batiste. The speed of the licker should be reduced from about 350 revolutions per minute to 275 or 280 revolutions per minute. This is done by lagging the licker-in pulley. The wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 34 wire (American count, or 110s English count), and on the doffer and top flats No. 36 wire, or 130s English count. THE FLATS should be speeded up to take out as much waste as possible. The cards should be stripped three times a day and ground so as to keep the wire sharp. The settings used should be very close and care should be taken to see that the cotton is not broken in staple at the card. A great many times, if the cotton is sampled at the front of the card, it will be found to be shorter than when entering. This may be and is generally caused by an improper setting of the feed plate to the licker-in. While this applies di- rectly to long staple cotton, still all cottons should be looked into carefully to avoid shortening the length of the staple. It is very in;portant to keep the cards clean so that as little dust and dirt will go into the sliver as possible, because, if this dirt gets past the combers, it will show up in the cloth, as the thread or yarn is so small. The PRODUCTION FOR A CARD making this class of goods should not exceed 275 pounds per week, the weight of the sliver being about 30 to 35 grains per yard. The draft for this class of goods should not be less than 150. The card sliver is taken to the comber room and doubled 14 into 1 at the sliver lap, and the laps from this machine are taken to the ribbon lap machine and doubled 5 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of the ribbon lap machine should be about 160 grains. These laps are piTt up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. The speed of the comber for this stock should not exceed 180 nips per min- ute. For this weight of web a double row of teeth in the top comb would give THE BEST RESULTS. Care should be taken to see that all needles in the top are straight and that the comber is absolutely free from dirt at all times. The table of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 127 the comber should be gone over twice a day with whitening so that the sliv- er being drawn over it will not stick. The percentage of waste taken out should be about 25. These processes will answer for all the counts except for the 200s, which should be double combed, i. e., after being put through the combers once should be run through the sliver lap machine and then through the combers again. After passing through the combers the sliv- er passes through two processes of drawing. At these machines the sliv- er is doubled six into one, the speed of the front rolls at each frame being 320 revolutions per minute. Be sure the settings are proper for the staple so as not to "break" the staple, or too far apart so that uneven drawing will re- sult. THE TOP ROLLS should be of a little larger diameter than for shorter length of staple; the grade of skin used for the top rolls should be finer than that used for the shorter and lower grades of cotton. Not only is this true in regard to the drawing frames, but also on all ma- chines on which leather top rolls are used. Always keep these rolls in the best of shape and clean machines more often than with the lower grades of raw stock. The weight of sliver at the front is 60 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is put through the slub- ber, which makes it into .80 hank. This machine also uses a larger diam- eter top roll than is used on the lowe» grades. The slubber roving for 60s yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at the 1st intermediate being 2.25; at the second, 5 hank, and at the fine frames 15 hank. From here it is taken to the ring spin- ning room and made into 60s warp yarn on a frame having the followiivg particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1 5-16 inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. TO MAKE 100s YARN the slubber roving is the same, also the hank roving at the first and second intermediates. The hank roving at the fine frame is 20. This yarn for filling is taken to the mule spinning room; for warp yarn used in the finer grade of batiste is sometimes spun in the mule room and sometimes in the ring spinning room. When spun on the ring frame, use the following partic- ulars for a warp frame: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. For making 200s yarn the final yarn is spun single at the mule; if spun double, the frames and hank roving at each would be as follows: Slubber, .80; first intermediate. 2.25; second inter- mediate, 5; roving, 20, and jack 30 hank. This would be taken to the mule room and spun into 200s yarn. The warp yarn for both grades of fabric would be spooled and warped and run through a slasher. A GOOD MIXING for 60s yarn is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap, li/^ pounds. A good sizing mixture for the 100s would be as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tal- low, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; soap, 2 pounds. Boil two hours and let stand 10 hours before using; keep agitator running and keep size almost at boiling point. For sel- vedge, the 100s yarn would have to be doubled into 2-ply 100s in addition to the other processes. Bleaching, Dyeing and FInisliing Par- ticulars. These goods are bleached in the or- dinary way, great care being taken to keep the goods from damage. The pieces are boiled in caustic soda at 4 degrees Tw. for ten hours, rinsed well in water, and boiled again with 4 deg^rees Tw. caustic soda, rinsed, and soured with % degree Tw. of oil of vitriol, rinsed and passed through a solution of chloride of lime at i^ degree Tw. soured with i^ degree Tw. oil of vitriol, and well rinsed, until all acid is washed out. The goods are then dried, and starched through a mangle with 8-12 ounces best white German dextrine to one gallon of water, starch to be well boiled one hour before using. The pieces are dried on a tenter frame at full width, care being taken to keep the warp and filling straight. COLORS. If colors are required they are light blues, pinks and other light tints (Jyed in the mangle or on the jig. LIGHT PINK. For 10 50-yard pieces, 12 gallons water; % ounce to 2 ounces Brika pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 3 pounds sal soda. LIGHT BLUE. Dye as pink with Vz to 1 ounce tetra- zo brilliant blue 6B. 128 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. LIGHT SLATE. 2 ounces diamine black B H, dye as pink. RED. 1-2 pounds benzo fast red 4B, dye as pink. YELLOW. Dye as pink. 8 ounces chrysophe- nine. ORANGE. Dye as pink. 1 pound Mikado orange B. SCARLET. Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine scar- let B. LIGHT WINE. Dye as pink. 1 pound diamine Bor- deaux B. LIGHT AMBER BROWN. 4 ounces diamine catechine G; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B, dye as pink. TOBACCO BROWN. Yz pound diamine brown B; 2 ounces diamine fast yellow B, dye as pink. LIGHT TAN. Dye as pink. 4 ounces diamine bronze G; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- low B. LIGHT GREEN. Dye as pink. 10 ounces diamine green G; 5 ounces diamine fast yellow B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces brilliant green G. BLACK. Dye on jig. 15 per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. ITALIAN CLOTH. Italian cloth is a light, glossy fabric made from cotton and worsted, cotton and wool, cotton and mohair and all cotton. We will here consider the all-cotton fabric. Italian cloth is very common- ly understood to mean a satin fabric, by some known as Farmer's satin. ITS CHIEF USE. It is used chiefly for linings for the heavier styles of ladies' dresses, also for underskirts, or for the garment itself, instead of merely as a lining; when used for such, it is usu- ally in solid black. It is also used for shirtwaistings, fancy pillow backs and so forth, for these purposes usually in fancy colors. The cloth is woven "in the gray" — undyed yams. In the finer grades the warp is sized so as to facilitate the DDDBODnnBDnncBn nBDDnnBnaDDBDDD DDDDBDDDDBDDDaB DDHDnDDBCaDDHDn ■nDDDBDDDDBDDDn DDDHDnDDBDDi ,ama umaaoarnDDDDmcaa nnoamaaaomDDDam aaBDDDDBDnDDBnn ■DaaDHDaDCHDDna LIDaHDOGDHGDDDBa DBaDDDBDDnnBDna □aDDBDDunBGDDDB CDHDannHnaDDBDa ■□CDDHDDDDBDDDG FiE DnDnaDDDnHnnnaDDnonB DDDaanDDBaDnunnnDnHa nDDDDDDBDDDDDDDDDBDa naaaaamaaaoaDnaamaan DDnDDHDDDnDDDDDIIDana DDaaBDDnnnDDnDHnnnan onDUDDaDnDDDDDiGnDnnn CnHDDDDnDDnDBaDnDDDn DBaaDnonDnnBDDDDDDnn ■naDDaDnnDBunnnaDDna Fig. 2. nDDBBBDaDBBBDnn ■■■aDDIBHaODMB Fig. 3. weaving process. - The fabric under consideration is a five-harness satin weave. The satin weave, technically called "satin." is ' one of the three foundation weaves. The object of a satin weave is to get a smooth-face fabric. In plain twill weaves every pick in- terlaces with the warp in the same manner, but each successive pick com- mences as it were one end farther to the right or left, according to the di- rection of the twill. This will bind the cloth in a regular order. In satin weaves THE INTERLACING is arranged differently; the intersec- tions of warp and weft are distributed as evenly as possible over the surface of the fabric. The smallest and most common form of satin is the five-harness satin. The order of intersections is 1, 3, 5, 2, 4. (See Fig. 1.) ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric, finished, 36 inches; ends per inch in reed, 96; ends per inch, finished, 102; ends in warp, 3,700; 32 dent reed per inch — 3 ends per dent. Take-up of warp during weaving is 5 per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, is four ounces. Owing to the pressure the fabric is subjected to in the finishing, it stretches slightly in length; conse- quently the cloth should be lighter per yard, finished, than the cloth from A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 129 Hoom. The difference, however, is made up by the sizing materials, al- though it is given but a very light siz- ing. The cloth per yard finished is prac- tically of the same weight as the cloth per yard from loom. Warp: All l-40s cotton, left twist. Filling: All l-45s cotton, left twist. 130 picks per inch. Fig. 1 shows three repeats of the ■design; the weave as mentioned above is a five-harness satin, weft face, with the direction of the twill running to the right. The fabric in question has a very smooth face, which is due in a great measure to the direction of the twill being opposite to the direction of twist of yarn. Fig. 2 shows drawing-in draft. The warp is drawn on ten harnesses, straight draw — five harnesses would be enough; tea harnesses are used so as not to overcrowd the heddles. Fig. 3 shows reeding plan. The warp is reeded 3 ends in one dent. LOOM REQUIRED. This character of fabric could be woven on any loom where ten har- nesses could be operated without dif- ficulty. The loom should have a fair- ly high running speed. FINISH. This fabric, as before mentioned, is woven with undyed yarns. After it comes from the loom it is boiled off, then dyed,after which it is subjected to a light sizing. For a light sizing it is not necessary to use anything but wheat flour, farina and a small quanti- ty of softening material, usually tallow or wax. After the cloth is sized it is run through the calender with the rolls well heated, the glossy face of the fab- ric being obtained by the heated rolls. The cloth, after the calendering.is fold- ed, after which it is ready for the mar- ket. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Italian cloth is made in mills of the second division as given in a previous lesson. The class of cloth may be made up of several grades and lengths of raw stock, but for this article we will consider that the cotton is of a fair grade, the staple being about 1% inches in length. The cotton is all sampled before being put through this bale breaker, several bales being placed around this machine, the cotton being fed alternately from each bale until all the cot- ton is gone. The bagging which cov- ers these bales i& thrown into a pile and is again picked over in order to clean all the fibre from the bagging. This is generally done by the yard hands on rainy days. THE BEST METHOD of conveying the cotton to the mixing bins is by a blower and endless lat- tices. When a blower is used, the cotton arrives at the mixing bins in a more open state and works up much better. At the mixing bin the good waste cotton from all the machines up to the slubber is mixed in. The cot- ton is fed to the hopper of the open- er which should always be kept half full and from here is passed on to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. For this class of goods some overseers use two and some use three processes of picking. It is the general plan of up- to-date mills to use two processes with an opener. After passing the feed rolls of the breaker picker the cotton comes under the ACTION OF THE BEATER. If this is of a rigid two-bladed type (which is the one most generally used) the speed should be about 1,500 i-evo- lutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of the breaker picker is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. These laps are taken and put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. The roving waste is mixed in at this point in the proportion of three laps of good cot- ton to one lap of bobbin or roving waste. The roving waste is put through a special picker that takes out the twist and delivers it in a light, fluffy state. This is taken and spread evenly on the apron of a picker and made into a lap, the weight of which corresponds to the weight of the laps of the same kind being put up at the back of the finisher picker. The speed of the beater (two-bladed rigid type) for this class of work is about 1,400 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through 42 lieats per inch. The total WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of the finisher should be about 35 pounds, a variation of % pound being allowed from standard. If the weight is more than 14 pound, the laps should be run over again, i. e., placed at the back of the finisher and run through with three other laps. If there is a great variation in the laps, the machine should be looked into to see what is the cause. For slight va- 130 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. riations in weight there are adjust- ments to quickly remedy the defects. The lap at the front for this class of goods should weigh 12 14 ounces to the yard. The laps are put up at the card and the draft of this machine should not be less than 100. Medium card fillet wire should be used on both the cylinder, doffer and flats, the wire on the doffer and flats being one point finer than that used on the cyl- inder. The speed of the cylinder should be about 165 revolutions per minute; speed of licker-in, about 350 revolutions per minute; the speed of the top flats, 1 complete revolution every 50 minutes. THE CARDS should be stripped 3 times a day and ground surely once a month. At the time of grinding, the card wires should be all straightened out and all reset properly. Light grinding should al- ways be used. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 65 grains per yard. The production for a week of 60 hours (allowing 10 per cent of time for cleaning, stoppage, etc.) is about 700 pounds. The cot- ton sliver is then passed on to the drawing frames and through three processes of these machines. The drawing frames may be either equipped with metallic or leather cov- ered top rolls, the speed of the front roll at each process being about 400 revolutions per minute. See that the drawing frame bottom rolls are prop- erly set, a good setting for this stock being as follows: From centre of front roll to centre of second roll, IVz inches; second roll to third roll. 1% inches; third roll to back roll, 1% inches. The weight of sliver at the front of the finisher drawing frame should be 72 grains, the doubling at each proc- ess being six into one. AT THE SLUBBER the sliver is drawn into .50 hank rov- ing. From here it passes through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: First inter-, mediate, 1.50 hank; second interme- diate, 4.00, and fine frame 10.00 hank. At the fly frame icok cut for the top leather covered rolls. These should always be in the best of shape. Put just enough twist into the roving so that it will not break back at the suc- ceeding process. Remember, every extra turn of twist given the roving lessens the production. On the other hand, do not get the roving too slack twisted, for then loss of produc- tion, as well as poor work, will result in consequence of the roving breaking back. The warp roving is then takem to THE SPINNING ROOM and spun into 40s yarn on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, QYz inches; speed of spindle, 10,000 revolutions per minute. The roving for the filling yarn may be taken to either the ring spinning or the mule room, where it is spun into 45s yam. If taken to the ring spinning room,, use a frame of following particulars: Gauge of rame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 51^ inches; speed of spindles, 8,806 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled and warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. The pieces are boiled out for dark shades, and bleached white for light shades and tints. The dyeing is done on a jig machine. PINK. 8 ounces diamine rose G D, 20 pounds- Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. All the dyeings are for 10-12 gallons water and 10 pieces, 50 yards. SALMON. 4 ounces diamine orange B, 1 ounce- diamine scarlet B, 15 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT BUFF. 4 ounces diamine catechine G, 1 ounce diamine fast yellow B, 15 pounds- Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. 4 ounces diamine black B H, 15 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT GRAY. One-half pound diamine gray G, 15. pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half pound diamine catechine G, y2 pound diamine brown B, 2 ounces diamine fast yellow A, 20 pounds, Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. RED. 3 pounds diamine fast red F, 30" pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sfl soda. SKY BLUE. 2 pounds diamine sky blue F F, 30 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal Soda. A COTTON FABRICS QLOSSARY. 131 SLATE. 1 pound immedial black N B, 4 ounces immedial olive B, 1 pound sul- phide of sodium, 20 pounds Glauber's, Vz pound soda ash. PEARL. 2 ounces immedial black N R T, % pound sulphide sodium, 10 pounds Glauber's, 6 ounces soda ash. BLACK. 15 pounds immedial black N N, 15 pounds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. NAVY BLUE. 2 pounds immedial indone 3B, 2 pounds immedial indone R, 5 pounds sulphide sodium, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. NIGHT GREEN. 3 pounds brilliant benzo green B, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. HELIOTROPE. 1 pound heliotrope B B, 25 pounds Glauber's, 2 pounds sal soda. WINE. 3 pounds tetrazo corinth G, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. OLD GOLD. 2 pounds diamine fast yellow A, 1^/4 pounds diamine brown 3G, 30 pounds Glauber's, 3 pounds sal soda. FINISHING. Cotton Italians are finished with a calender finish, passed through a cot- ton rolled calender, to get a good fin- ish, and then softened down, with a light beetling on a beetling machine, or finished altogether on a beetling ma- chine. They are also given a hot press finish on the hydraulic press with hot press plates and papers, to imitate the worst- ed Italians. Beetling Process for Finishing. The beetling process for finishing cotton and linen piece goods is one of the oldest finishes in the bleaching and dyeing trades. It was first invented in the linen bleacheries of the north of Ireland in the Belfast district. The first beet- ling machines were very crude affairs compared with the machines now in service. The beam on which the cloth was wound was a large tree trunk turned down and smoothed, which was set in motion with a handle. The part of the machine which lifted the fallers was also turned by hand. The prin- ciple of a finish by a beetling machine is simply an improvement on the old mangle, to smooth the cloth, and fill in the spaces between the threads, mak- ing the cloth more opaque, and show- ing the ordinary linen finish. A good beetle finish is also a permanent fin- ish and will stand sponging and iron- ing. THE NEW BEETLES are made entirely of iron, except the fallers, which are wooden. The cloth is wound on the iron cylinder or beam, which revolves about 40 times a min- ute; the fallers are lifted by cams and fall of their own weight, about 16 inches on the cloth, from 40 to 50 times a minute. The cloth receives by this process a tremendous hammering, and where 10 or more machines are to- gether the noise is simply deafening. Goods made of half linen and half cotton can be finished to look like all linen goods, and in some goods made of all cotton the finish makes the pieces exactly like a piece of linen, and even AN EXPERT MAY BE DECEIVED thereby. Some goods are heavily starched and dryed, then sprinkled, put on the beetles, and hammered for four or five days, being sprinkled and turned occasionally. The beetles are run night and day with two crews. In Ireland, where labor is cheap and water power is used, the finish is not very expensive, although the process is very long, as the goods are often on the beetles for six days. Where steam power only is used, the finish is almost prohibitory and as a very large and expensive plant is required to turn out a large amount of goods, not many plants of any great capacity have been erected in this country. The largest beetling works are those of the Macnab Co., Hurlet, Pais- ley, Scotland. There are about 100 sections of beetles there, and some very fine work is turned out. A GOOD FINISH is obtained on silesias by first passing the goods through a calender and then giving a few hours on the beetle. Mather and Piatt, of Manchester, have a patent beetle with spring hammers instead of fallers. This machine is said to be good for some finishes, but many prefer the old wooden faller ma- chine. Any width of cloth can be fin- ished on the beetle. Holland shades of over 100 inches in width are handled with ease, and the width of the cloth is always increased during the process of beetle finish. 132 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. CHEESECLOTH, This is a thin cotton fabric of light weight 'and low counts of yarn, which for cheapness ranks among the first in cotton fabrics. The fact that it is a cheap fabric has much to do with its popularity, in so far that it is used for innumerable pur- poses; chief among which we may mention that it is used for wrapping cheeses and butter after they are pressed, for these purposes only the bleached fabric being used. It is also much in demand for bunting for fes- tal occasions, for light curtains, mas- querade dresses, etc. When used for buntings, draperies and the like, it is usually in colors. Red, blue, cream and yellow bunting seem to have the greatest demand. In the sample which will now be considered, the cheesecloth is of a fair quality; the weave is a one and one, or plain weave; there is very little variety in the designing. THE CHIEF OBJECT of the designer in constructing a fabric of this character is to find the least number of ends and picks per inch re^ quired, so that the fabric will not slip too easily; that is, if the cloth is taken between the thumb and first finger of each hand, and the thumbs drawn away from each other over the surface of the fabric and first fingers, the ends, if pulling in the direction of the filling, will not leave their proper places too easily, or, if pulling in the direction of the warp, the picks or filling will not give too easily. This tendency to slip is entirely due to the lack of material necessary to produce a perfect or firm cloth. A PERFECT CLOTH may be defined as a cloth in which the wai-p or weft yarns are equal in diameter and the spaces between the threads are equal to the diameter of the yarn. For instance, let us construct a per- fer.t cloth with l-36s cotton yam for both warp and filling. By squaring tne coimts we find the diameter of yarn to be l-165th part of an inch; that is, 165 threads of l-36s will lie side by side in one inch, and by sub- tnac'ting one-half of the 165 to allow for the space required for the inter- lacing with the weft we have 82 ends and 82 picks necessary for one inch of cloth. In the sample in question there is omlA' about half the number necessary to make perfect or firm cloth. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric finished, 36 inches. Ends per inch in reed, 42; ends per inch in finished cloth, 45. Picks per inch in loom, 42; picks per inch, finished, 42; ends in warp, 1,620, Reed, 750x2. TaKe-up of warp during weaving, 6 per cent; weight of cloth, per yard, from loom, 1.7 ounces; finished weight per yard, practically the same. Warp, all l-36s cotton carded peeler; filling, all l-36s cotton carded peeler. nDnnancBODDnnnDB DDanDDBDnDDDaaBD □aannanDDDnnDBDD □DDOBDDannDDBnDD DnnBnDDDDDnBQDon DGHnnDannDBnDann DBaDnnDODBnnDDDD ■□DDDaDDBDDaDDaa Fig 2. Fia; 1. ' Fig. 1, design. Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. LOOM REQUIRED. The retail price of cheesecloth, 5c. to 8c. per yard, requires that it be wov- en on a high running speed loom. The Northrop loom would be about the best, running at about 200 picks per minute. If the warps are properly sized a weaver can take care of 10 to 16 looms. FINISH. Cheesecloth is given very little finish. After it comes from the loom, it passes to the dyehouse, where it is bleached or dyed as the case may be; the cloth is dyed in a gig dyeing ma- chine* After the dyeing it is passed through a rotary press with cylinder slightly heated, after which it is folded and is then ready for the market. HDHDnnm DBCBDHDB ■DaaaDHD □■DBOBBG ■aaaiDHD L ■DaaHaa DaaDBDMQ naaaaaaa nnaanDan aauaaaDD Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which cheesecloth are made up would be made in mills having an equipment of machinery for making coarse or medium grade yarns. There are several kinds and grades of cotton used for the manu- facture of this cloth and the count of yarn varies, TDut not to such a varia- tion as has been the case with the cloths that have been described in late articles. For this article it will be considered that the cotton is made up of a medium grade of cotton of 1^/4 inches length of staple and that the count of the yarn for both warp and filling is 36s. The cotton is fed A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. 133 to the bale breaker (if the mill con- tains one) or the bales are placed, around the mixing bin and mixed by hand. THE HAND MIXING does not give as uniform a mixing as the bale breaker, and when the mixing is done by hand it ought to stand long- er before being used, so that it will dry out thoroughly. For this class of goods three processes of picking and an opener are used. The good waste cotton is mixed direct into the bin with the raw stock as it is collected. The cotton is then fed to the opener, which is generally supplied with a porcupine opener, and this should re- volve at about 1,050 revolutions per minute. From the opener the cotton is conveyed by an endless apron to teed rolls of the breaker picker, which condense the fluffy mass into a sheet and offer it to the beater. The beat- er of this machine and also of the in- termediate and finisher pickers is gen- erally of the rigid, two-bladed type. The breaker picker makes 1,500 revo- lutions per minute, the total weight of the lap at the front being 40 pounds, or 16 ounces per yard. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. The beater of this machine should make about 1,450 revolutions per min- ute, the total weight of a lap at the front being 37 pounds, or 12 ounces to the yard. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and douDled four into one, the beater making 1,450 revolu- tions per minute, and the total weight of the lap at the front end being 35 pounds or 12% ounces to yard of lap. Keep the draught of the pickers on the top cage as this will help to prevent splitting of laps; also see that the fly is not allowed to accumulate to any great extent under the ma,chines. There should always be a supply of laps ahead, in case of a breakdown. Always use old laps flrst and not the newly made ones. The laps are car- ried to the card. The draught of this machine for this class of work should not exceed 100. The top flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. Cards should be set for coarse work, using No. 33 wire on cylinder fillet, and No. 34 wire on dof- fer and top flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch cuameter doffer. THE SLIVER should weigh 65 grains per yard, and the production for a week of 60 hours should be 750 pounds. The sliver is put through three processes of drawing. It would be of great advantage to use metallic rolls. The doublings at each process are six into one. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. This roving passes through two processes of fly frames. At the flrst intermediate the hank roving is 1.56, at the second intermediate this is made into 3.75 hank, and at the fly frame 7.50. At the fly frame watch tlie leather top rolls. The bottom steel rolls should be taken •out and scoured at least once a year. The hank roving is then taken to the ring spinning room or the roving for the filling may be taken to the mule room and made into 36s yarn. If taken to THE SPINNING ROOM, use a frame having the following par- ticulars (for 36s filling): Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; speed of spindles, 10,200 revo- lutions per minute. For warp yarns (36s), use 2% inches gauge of frame; 1% inches diameter of ring, and 5% inches length of traverse, with spin- dles running at 8,900 revolutions per minute. The warp yarn is then spooled, warped and run through a slasher. Dyeing Particulars. Cheesecloth is dyed on the gig ma- chine, or in the starch mangle during the starching process. PINK. For 10 gallons liquor, 3 pounds 8 ounces cornstarch or dextrine. 4-6 ounces Erika pink, 2 pounds Glauber's, 1 pound sal soda. YELLOW. As pink; 1 pound chrysophenine. ROYAL BLUE. As pink; 2 pounds alum, no sal soda, 1 pound Victoria blue B. SCARLET. As pink; 2 pounds diamine scarlet B. RED. As pink; 3 pounds benzo purpurine 4B. LIGHT SLATE. As pink; 8 ounces diamine black B H, 1 ounce diajmine fast yellow B. BROWN. As pink; 2 pounds benzo fast orange S, 2 pounds chrysophenine, % pound benzo fast black. HELIOTROPE. As pink; 1 pound benzo fast violet R, 4 ounces benzo fast blue B N. 134 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. VELVETEEN. Velveteens, also termed fustians and velverets, are heavy cotton fabrics in which the distinguishing effect is formed by the points of the fibres in the filling yarns, termed the pile, be- ing presented to the vision, and not the sides of the yarns as in the ma- jority of fabrics. They are principally used for dress and hat trimmings, suitings, and up- holstery, having exceptional wearing qualities and showing a full, deep col- or. Corduroys are sometimes termed velveteens, the same principle of con- accomplish this the goods are made with a comparatively small number of ends and large number of picks per inch, ranging from 50 to 76 ends and 150 to 600 picks. One warp only is used. A fairly heavy loom is necessary. Figures 1 and 2 illustrate two meth- ods of arranging the whip rolls and yarn when weaving some of the heav- ier picked goods. In each figure A n&.x represents the warp beam and B the whip rolls. The dotted line indicates the direction of the yarn. Standard widths for velveteens are 19 inches, 22 1^ inches, 24 ^^ inches and 2714 inches or 28 inches. For the lat- ter width the warp is spread about 33^ inches in the loom. The weights for 2S-inch goods vary from one to flO.4-. •I*. 5 struction being adopted in both fab- rics, but a corduroy is distinguished by having a corded stripe effect run- ning lengthways of the piece, the di- viding line between each stripe show- ing both warp and filling. In the simplest type of velveteens the pile filling, after being cut, hides the warp entirely from the face. To three and one-half yards per pound. The goods are usually woven two or more widths in the loom, with split selvedges. In order that the fabric may remain firm after the pile picks are cut, ground or binder picks are inserted regularly, working either plain or twHl as may be desired. The filling for A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 135 these picks is similar to that used for the pile, only one shuttle being used. Figure 3 is a design for a velveteen, arranged one ground and three pile picks, the ground weave being plain. The drawing-in draft is straight on 6 harnesses, 1 to 6. The selvedges are woven with a selvedge motion. The ends are reeded 2 in each dent. The chain draft is similar to the ■weave. Fig. 3. Six ends and eight picks repeat. Figure 4 shows a sectional view of the cloth before being cut. Figure 5 shows the same with the pile cut. Let- tered circles in these figures corre- spond to ends, and numbered lines to picks, in Figure 3. An analysis of two fabrics woven with design. Figure 3, shows the fol- lowing: Sample No. 1: 76 ends and 192 picks per inch; 2Ss warp and 40s fill- ing; width 23 inches; weight 4.35 yards per pound. This is a velveteen of poor quality. Sample No. 2 is of a good quality. It contains 76 ends and 375 picks per 8 onnnfflD ^ DDtijDCD 6 fflDDDDD 5 DHDBDa 4 DaDD&n 3 DDEaDDD 2 fflDDDDn 1 ■^M^? n DBsuaa ■ DBBD ffiDDDuD DDDDSD BOHaaH DDWDDa ffiDDD'^D 1-ii; L. . □ODDsntaa DDfflDfflODD fflDfflnaaon naoanHDc fflaDDDDEED nDOCJEBDffin □nEBDEBaDD FPOtfiDDDnn BDSCDISLSia Dfflnrnnnn DDnnnthDa DDDfflDDDa _ DDDDDaDEa n DBaaaHDB - ffiDDDDDDD nnnnfflODD naEBDDDDD DDDDDDSn ■DiiDHaKa KiS. 8. inch, 2-ply 60s warp and 55s filling, and the weight is 3.35 yards per pound. Some velveteens are sold by weight, similar to men's wear fabrics, so many ounces per yard. Another standard fabric woven with design Figure 3 is as follows: 74 ends, 260 picks, 2-ply 70s warp, 60s fill- ing. Figure 6 shows a design with a 3- end twill ground, arranged one ground and three pile picks. The drawing-in draft is straight, reed draft, 2 ends per dent, chain draft same as weave, repeated to 18 picks. Selvedges extra. Figure 7 shows a design for what is termed a fast back velveteen, arranged one ground and four pile picks. When each pile pick is tied under two ends, as in this example, the effect is not so good as when tied only once, but the wearing qualities are improved. In the preceding examples it will be seen that the pile filling is bound only on every other end. Figure 8 illustrates a design in which the pile is bound in on every end. This type makes a firm texture but does not admit of a large number of picks, therefore the pile cannot be made very full. PURPOSES. For dress and trimming purposes velveteens are usually of a solid col- or, being piece dyed. For upholstery purposes the goods are dyed, printed, embossed or stamped. Panel and stripe patterns are also made by cutting a raised fig- ure on an uncut ground, or vice versa, by painting or by the pyrogravure process, burning. When STAMPING velveteens the goods are passed be- tween two cylinders. The upper cylin- der is of iron and is heated from the inside. The pattern is engraved or sunk into this. The lower cylinder is of hard wood. The pile is compressed by the projecting part of the upper cyl- inder, causing the pattern to stand out in relief from a dull ground, ov vice versa. PAINTING ON VELVETEENS is essentially a hand process. The col- ors have to be free from oil that they may not spread beyond the limits in- tended. In the pyrogravure process of mak- ing patterns on velveteens, the sketch is first made and placed in a panto- graph machine. With a platinum stylus heated to redness the operator then burns out the pile along the lines traced, leaving a very ciear pattern. From the time a velveteen leaves the loom to the time it is ready for cutting, it has to be passed through several processes. It is first put through a BACK STARCHING AND DRYING MACHINE. After drying, the better grades are raised on the under side to make a softer feeling cloth. The lower qual- ities are not raised on account of the tendency for the process to weaken the cloth. The goods are then, while under ten- sion, saturated with a weak milk of lime, the solution being brushed into them on the face side. The next process is drying. This is done by a device in which rods are au- tomatically inserted below the fabric, so that the latter hangs down in loops. After drying, the cloth is folded and passed to the brushing machine. This machine removes the lime and loosens the filling floats so that the knife can readily enter beneath them. The cutting process proper now 136 A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. takes place, being done either by ma- chinery or by hand. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The fabric for which the oardimg and spinning particulars are given below is made up in several grades. For this article only two grades will be con- sidered, a coarse one having a warp of 1-28S and l-40s filling; and a fine grade, the warp yam of which is 2-70s and with a filling of 2-60s yarn. This fabric, all grades, would be made either in the second or ihird division of mills ajs given in a previous lesson. We will consider THE COARSER GRADE first. This would be made from a me- dium grade 1 5-l(J inch staple cotton and run through the bale breaker with blower and endless lattice connections, so that it will reach the mixing bins in a dry, open state. When feeding the bale breaker do not feed one entire lap before starting on another,but open several laps around the bale breaker and feed from each bale alternately. The mixing should be AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE, so that there will be less variation in the yam than when smjall mixings are used. The good waste from the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in- to the bin as it is collected. The cotton is next put through an opener and either 2 or 3 processes of pickers. It is the general custom nowadays to use 2 processes, but the particulars for three processes will be given. If one process is left out, use particulars given for breaker and finisher pickers. Feed the Hopper of the opener so that it is al- ways more than half full, because the more cotton there is in the hopper the more cotton will be taken up by the spiked apron and thus a more even sheet will be presented to the beater, which is generally of a porcupine type and is speeded up to 1,000 revolutions per minute. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of laps at the front of this machine is 40 pounds or a 16-ounoe lap. These laps are DOUBLED POUR INTO ONE at the intermediate. At this machine the speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 10-ounoe lap. These laps are doubled four into one at th© finisher picker, the total weight of a lap at the front be- ing 39 pounds or liVz ounce lap. The speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions- per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it 42 blows or beats per inch. Each lap, as it is taken from the front of the finisher picker, should be weighed and all those laps ranging over a half a pound from the standard, either way (light or heavy), should be run over again. The CUT ROVING WASTE is mixed in at the back of the finisher picker in proportion of one lap of rov- ing waste to three laps of raw stock. The cut roving waste has to go through a special process to take out twist and from here it is put through a picker which forms it into a lap, then it is mixed with the raw stock as above. From the picker the laps are taken to the card. The draft of this machine should be about 110. The set- tings sihould be medium and the wire fillet used would be No. 35 fbr doffer and flats and No. 34 for cylinder. The speed of the top flats should be one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The sliver at the front should weigh 6^5 grains per yard and the produc- tioin for a week of 60 hours should be- about 800 pounds. The sliver is then put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, the doublings at each process being six into one. '^The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- olutions per minute at each process. The sliver should weigh about 70 grains per yard. This is then put through the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. The roving to be used for 28s yarn is put through two proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving at the first intermediate being 2 and at the second being 6. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and made into 28s yarn on a warp frame having the following particulars: (jauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; speed of spindles, 9,700 rev- olutions per minute. From here it is passed through the spooler, which takes the yarn from the cop and winds it onto a spool. From here it is wound onto a beam and several of these beams are put up at the ends and run through the slasher and wound on to a beam at the front, which has the re- quired number of ends required for the warp of the fabric. THE SLUBBER ROVING for filling yam is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing 1.50 at the first intermediate. 4 A COTTON FABRICS aLOSSARY. 137 bank at the second and 8 hank at the last frame. This roving for filling may- be taken to either the mule room or the ring spinning room to be made in- to 40s. We will consider it to be taken to the ring spinning room and spun on a frame having the following par- ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5% inches. FOR THE FINER GRADES of velveteen the foregoiing general particulars may be used, but substitut- ing the following for 60s and 70s yam: Use iy2 inches staple cotton; at the pickers the total weight of lap at the frtont is 40 pounds or 16-ounoe lap at the beater and 35 pounds or 12-ounce lap at finisher, no intermediate picker being used. At the card the top flats should make one complete revolution every 40 minutes, the weight of sliver aJt front being 65 grains and produc- tion about 500 pounds per week. THE DRAFT should not be less than 120. Sometimes the filling yarn is combed, but we will consider this yarn to be carded and so it will be put through three pirocesses of drawing. At the slubber the sliver is drawn into .55 hank roving and for both warp and filling is put through three pirocesses of fiy frames, the hank roving being as follows: To make 70s yam: first intermediate. 1.50 hank; second, 4 hank; and jack frames, 14 hank. To make 60s yarn: first inter- mediate, 1.50; second, 4 hank; and fine, 12 hank. The 14 hank roving is taken and spun into 70s yarn on a WARP SPINNING FRAME fitted up as follows: Gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; speed of spiindles, 10,000 revolutions per minute; length of traverse 5i/^ inches. From here it is spooled, then twisted into 2-ply and spooled again, wajrped and put through the slasher. The 12 roving to be made into 60s 3^iarn may be taken either to the mule room or the ring spinning room. If taken to the ring frame, use a frame having the following: Gauge of frame 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches. The yam is then twisted into 2-60s. Dyeing Particulars. Velveteen is dyed on the jigger ma- chine in 15 gallons of liquor at 175 de- grees F.; for 30 pounds of goods, one- half pound soda ash, one-quarter pound sulphide sodlium, 1 pound salt; boil up tne liquor, add the soda, sodium sul- phdde ^nd salt before adding the dye- ^tn'ff, sabraiin through a piece of calico into taie jigger. The goods are run for 30 to GO min- utes; rinse well in water after dyeing. ECRU. 4 ounces immeddal bronze A, after- treat with % per cent bichrome, ^z per cent sulphate copper. LIGHT SLATE. 4 ounces immedial black V, after- treat V2 per cent bichrome, 14 per cent sulphate copper. PEARL. IVz ounces immedlial black V, IVz ounces immedial brown B, aftertreat as slaie. PAWN DRAB. 12 ounces immedial bronze A, 2 ounces immedial brown B. LIGHT BROWN. 1 pound immedial brown B, 4 ounces immedial cutch O, 1 poiund siulphide so- dium. MEDIUM BROWN. 14 pound immedial yellow D, 1 pound immedial brown B, % pound immedial cutch O, 1% pounds sulphide sodium. DARK BROWN. 20 pounds salt, l^ pound soda ash, 5 pounds sulphide, % pound immedial black N R T sodium, 8 pounds imme- dial brown B. NAVY BLUE. Dye as ecru with 2 pounds immedial blue C, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, % pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse and top with methylene blue N, and shade' with methyl violet B. BLACK. 2 pounds immedial black V, 2 pounds sodium sulphide, Yz pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt; rinse and top with a one- dip black, or paint with Prussian blue. INDIGO BLUE. For 30 pounds goods in jigger, 1 to 5 pounds pyrogene indigo, 1 to 5 pounds sodium sulphide, 1 to 2 pounds soda ash, 5 to 15 pounds salt, Vo to 1 pint mineral oil; rinse and soap, top with methylene blue. A large number of one dip colors are also dyed on velveteens, from light to dark shades. Although the, colors are not so fast as sulphur colors, they are suflBciently f^st for some trades. After dyeing, the goods are topped with bajsic colors, as methyl violet with methylene blue, Bismarck brown and other bright colors. For 30 pounds of goods, 3 pounds di- 138 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. amme green, 20 pounds salt, 1 pound sal soda; top with Malachite green. SULPHUR GREEN, 2 pounds immedial indone B B, 1 pound immedial yellow D, 2 pounlds sulphide soda, 1 pound soda ash, 10 pounds salt. Rinse and top with brilliant green or Malachite green. tion and a race in the other piece when returning. Assuming that a VELVETEEN CUTTING. Velveteen cutting is one of the proc- esses Incident to making cloth that is still, to a considerable extent, done by hand for practical purposes, although machines are now in constant use for accomplishing the same results. The object of cutting is to present to the vision the points, instead of the sides, of the fibres in the filling. Fig. 1 illustrates the type of knife used when the cutting is done by hand. The guide A is inserted in a race of the cloth, and raises the fill- ing to the cutting edge B as it is forced along. The cutting is generally done with the blade of the knife held in a verti- cal position, so as to cut the filling in the centre of the float. A STRIPE EFFECT is obtained, either inteationally or un- intentionally, by varying the position of the knife to the left, centre or right, if two or three positions are held while cutting the same piece. Instead of cutting with the knife inclined first one way and then the other, to right and left, when making stripes with an ordinary weave, knives with two blades are sometimes used to make both cuts at once, one blade being a little shorter than the other. There are TWO METHODS of cutting velveteens by hand: (a) the long-frame method; (b) the short- frame method. In both these the cloth is first stretched over rollers to a suit- able tension. In long-frame cutting, two pieces are getierally arranged parallel to each other, about 10 or 12 yards long, with room enougih for the cutter to pass be- tween. The cutter cuts one race in one piece when walking in one direc- 24-inch velvet with 900 races is re- quired to be cut, the cutter will have to walk 900xl0,which equals 9,000 yds.. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 139 or over 5 miles to cut 10 yards. This il- lustrates how laborious the hand cut- ting process is. IN SHORT-FRAME CUTTING, about two yards of cloth are cut before a change is made. Here the cutter, with a peculiar swing of the body, forces the knife to the ead of the two yards. Considerable skill is required m a good cutter, as a wrong movement is liable to damage the piece, either by tained by hand cutting, the blades be- ing inserted below the filling so as to force the points of the filling upwards as they are cut. The disc cutters cut the filling from the top of the cloth downwards, the resulting pile being inferior to that cut by the blades. BLADE CUTTERS are of two kinds, single and multiple. The former have so far given the most satisfactory results on account of the difficultv of keeping the several blades running the knife through it or by cut- ting at the side instead of the centre of The amount of seconds in velveteens is very large, there being many of them made after they leave the loom, as well as during the process of weav- ing. The least imperfection in weav- ing will cause trouble in cutting. TWO KINDS OF MACHINES. Machines for cuttiag velveteens are of two kinds, blade cutters, and disc or circular cutters. The blade cutters most nearly approach the results at- in a multiple machi ;e in perfect align- ment with each other. The blades are similar to those used when cutting by hand, except that they are smaller. With a single blade one race is cut at a time, either in lengths of 12 yards or the entire piece, aid it is necessary to repeat the operation ftor each race i.i the cloth. The BLADE MACHINES PROPER are of two kinds, those in which the k ives are stationary, the full length of cloth being passed through in an 140 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. endless form, and those in which the cloth is stationary, stretched on a long table, and the knives have a horizon- tal movement. Both of these types of machines are fitted with either mechanical or elec- trical stop motions, which cause them to stop immediately a knife jumps out Figs. 2 and o illustrate a continuous cutting machine with four knives. Cloth cut by a machine of this type is claimed to be of a superior quality, because there is no necessity to take the knives out every few yards, as is the case in hand cutting. In addition to tne regTilar tension de- Fii or meets with an obstruction when cutting, or when the end of the race is reached. Machine cutters require the CONSTANT ATTENTION of a skilled mechanic to keep them in proper condition. If they are are not kept sharp and exactly to gauge, the pile will appear stripey, due to uneven cutting. vices for holding the piece tight, there are special plates arranged for hold- ing and supporting the fabric imme- diately under the race being cut. The mechanism is so arranged that the knives, plates, etc., are all moved si- multaneously, after each cut. THE KNIVES are mounted on hinged arms in such a manner that they lie upon the fab- A COTTON FABRICS OLOSSARY. 11-1 ric as it is fed forward, and so con- tinuously cut it. The mounting of the knives is of such a character that in the event of an accident, the worst that can happen is the puncture of the fabric, but the hole so made is only a small one, as the knife is instantly re- leased and the machine stopped. When the end of a race is reached the knives are readjusted and another set of races cut. The DISC CUTTING MACHINES are fitted with cutting discs of steel plate, accurately gauged and well- sharpened, mounted on a shaft, run- ning at a speed of about 3,000 revolu- tions per minute. They are sharpened automatically, while the machine is in motion. The number of these cutters depends on the number of races to be cut. The discs run inside small iron tri- angles, which serve as guides. These guides are placed in the races of the cloth by hand, and the piece is cut as it is drawn forward by the machine. The PRODUCTION OF A DISC CUTTER is much greater than that of a blade cutter. The disc maOhine effects quite a saving in cutting corduroys, these fab- rics not having as many races as vel- veteens. Devices for cutting the pile filling during the process of weaving have been tried, but have not met with suc- cess. One objection to this method is that the goods cannot be finished sat- isfactorily, the pile pulling out, if handled too severely. 12 inches and are about 1-SOOth of an inch in diameter. The wool after it comes from the sheep is sorted both for quality and BRILLIANTINE. Brilliantine is a dress fabric, re- sembling alpaca, but of superior quali- ty and sometimes finished on both sides. Brilliantines are made with a cotton warp and lustre worsted filling. Lustre wool is grown in Indiana and Kentucky and is commonly known in the trade as braid wool. Lustre wools are more extensively grown in England. The best qualities are grown in Lincolnshire. The fibres of Lincolnshire lustre range from 8 to Fig. 1. lustre and the higher the degree of lustre the more adaptable it is for fancy shades, while the dull or semi- lustre is only used for dark colors. DaaaHDaHBaDaaDHDDDDaaaaHaBBDGaDaB aDBaaaDBaaaDDaaoaDaaBaaaDBaaanDaaDaa BBBaaaBBaajaaaaaaDBBBaaDBBBBaDwDaBaa BBBaLjaBBBaDDDaBaBBBaBuaoBBaaaaaaBaBB BaaaaaBBaaaaaaDBBaBaaauBBaaDGDaaQBBB BaaaniBaDGDajaaaBBBBDaaaBBDaaauaaBaBa GaDDaaaDaaaaaBaBaaaoaDaaaDCiaaa-BaaBB GGGaaGGGflBBGGaaBBGGGGGBGGGBBBGGBaBBa GGGaGGBBBaGGaBBaaaGGGBGaBBBBGaBBBBGa GGaGaaaaaGGGaaBGGGGuaGaaaaaiijGGaaaGGa aBGaaaaBaaaaBBgaGaGBGaBBBaGGGBBBGaaD ■GBB«BBGGaa««qgQaa||a«aBaBaGuaBaQGQGD ■■■■■■GGaGBBGggaBUGJBBBBGaDGBBQGGGBB aUBBBGaGGGBGGGBBBaaBBBBQaaGaBGnGBHBa BBBBGGGGGB GBBB BGGBBBBGGGGDBGGBBBBGG BBBGGGGGBGBBBflBGGGBBBGDGGGBGBBBBBGGa BBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGBBBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGD BGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGGbbGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGGD GGGGBBGBBBBBGGGGBBGGaGBBaaBBBBBGGaaB nGBBMGGBBBBGGGGGBGGGBBBGBBBBBBGrjGGGB BBBBGGBBBBGGGGGBGGBBBBGGBBB«BGGGGGBG BBBGGGBBBGGGaGBGBBBBBaaQBBDGGGGaGBDB BBGaGBBBaGGGGBaBBBBBanaBBGaGaQGaBOBB BGaGnBBaGGGGBaBBBBBaGGGBGGDDBBaBBBBB GaGaBBaaGGBBGBBBBBGGanBBGaaQBBGBBBBB GaGGBaaaBBBDGBBBBG'"aGGBOaGBB8aDBBBBG GGGBGGBBBBGaBBBBGnGanBaaBBBBGgBBBBgG GGBGBBBBBGGGBBBannGDBniiBBBBDggBBBgqg nBGBBBBBGGGBBBaGaGaBGBBBBBGggBBBagga BGBBBBBGGaGBBaGanDBaBBBBBgggGBBggGgg nBBBBBOanGBBGanGBBGBBBBBngggBBngOGBB GBBBBGGGGaBCGGBBBnGBBBBaagnniigDgBBBa BBBBGGGanBGGBBBBGGBBBBngggnBggBBBIIDn BBBGGGGaBGBBBBBanaBBBnGGQgBgBBBBBggD BBGGaaDBnBBBBBGDaBBBnQaGGBaBBPBBgagr BGGGnGBGBBBBBOGGGBBGGGGGBGBI Fig. 2. IBOGGai Brilliantines are sometimes woven with undyed weft yarn and very rarely if ever with undyed warp yarn. They 142 A COTTON FABRICS OLOSISARY. are commonly made with both warp and weft yarns dyed previous to weav- ing. The warp yarn may be the same color as weft or it may be entirely dif- ferent. If, however, a one-colored fab- ric is desired and it is to be made with undyed weft yarn, the warp yarn must be dyed, previous to weaving, the same color as the weft will be dyed after the fabric is woven. The warp being cot- ton will not take color in a wool dye bath. Fig. 1 shows sample in which both warp and weft are dyed previous to weaving. The warp is light brown and the weft is a medium shade of green. This contrast of colors in con- nection with the weave gives the fab- ric A VERY PRETTY EFFECT. Any combination of colors may be used. A very important factor to con- sider in making brilliantines is the weave. The object is to have as much weft floating on the face of fabric as warp, and in figured brilliantines the DDDDODnnnnnnD^^DDDBi DDDGODDDDDaQDaaDBa DDDanDODaaDDDQGBaa DDDnaDDDDDDnnDBJLjn DDDDnDnnanDDDHDaDD DDDnDDaananaBDnaDD DDnnDaDnDDDBaaaaGa aDnnnnaDaaBannuaaa nnDDDDnnGBGnannnG^ DDDDnnnnBnnDDDnam Dnnnna^Bnaiannncim nnnnDBDanDDaQDDDDn DDnDBnGrODDnnnDnnD nnnBDnnn>^DnnannoGO DDB DD-imnnommnn D■0□^^Da^'^^^^^"l^DD Fig. 3. figure must in all cases be a weft float- ing figure. The reason for this is ob- vious when a lustrous fabric is de- sired. The design in Fig. 2, of which two repeats are shown, both warp way and filling way, shows the filling to float on the face of the fabric in exact pro- portions to the float of warp. Very pretty effects are obtained with a plain ground weave with a small jacquard figure, and when a very lus- trous fabric is wanted, the warp yarn is of finer counts than weft yarn. ANALYSIS OP FABRIC. Width of warp in reed (without sel- vedge), 42% inches; width of fabric finished, 40 inches; ends per inch in reed, 60; ends per inch finished, 64; ends in warp, 2,535 — light brown; 60 ends selvedge, white (30 ends each side), equals 2,595. Reed 30x2 equals 60 ends. Take-up of warp during weaving 6 per cent. Weight of fabric per yard from loom 5 ounces; weight of fabric finished practically the same. Body of warp 2-40s cotton dyed; sel- vedge 2-40s cotton undyed. Brilliantines, mohairs and alpacas are usually made with different colored selvedge yarn than the body of warp. Filling all l-30s lustre worsted, of about a H blood stock. Pig. 3 shows drawing-in draft — drawn in on 18 harnesses straight draw, pattern repeats on 18 ends and 18 picks. LOOM REQUIRED. For small figured brilliantine a Knowles dobby loom would be about the best. Large figures require a jac- quard loom; brilliantines usually re- quire only one kind of filling, conse- quently a box loom is not necessary, but in order to keep the shade of weft as even as possible when using dyed yarn, two shuttles are sometimes used weaving "pick and pick," FINISH. Brilliantines made with undyed weft, after they come from the loom, are first scoured, then dyed; after which they are run through a rotary press,of which the cylinder has from 50 to 60 pounds of steam heat. Brilliantines shrink a little after they come from the loom. The pressure to which they are sub- jected during the finishing process stretches them out to their original length. Those made with dyed yarns are given usually a dry finish, that is, they are simply run through the press, cylinder heated, after which they are rolled, then packed. Carding and Spinning Particulars. In a previous article, under the head- ing "Carding and Spinning Par- ticulars," the mills were sub- divided into three divisions. For the benefit of readers, we will repeat how they were divided for use in these articles. Mills making low count yarns, say fi^om Is to 30s, were included in the first division, those making medium count yarns, or from 30 to 70s, were included in the second, and the third division comprised mills making yarns from 70s up. This does not mean that only the yarns between the counts given are made in one di- vision, but that the greater portion of the counts of yarn made in the divi- sions referred to are between the counts given. Ine COUNT OF COTTON YARN used for brilliantine for this article is A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 143 2-40s. The filling yarn is lustre worsted yarn and therefore we will only deal with the cotton warp yarn. This class of yarns is made in the second division of mills, the cotton used being of a medium grade and hav- ing a staple of about 1 3-16 inches. The equipment for the second divi- sion of mills may call for a bale break- er or not. We will consider that one is included. The bales of cotton are stapled and several placed around and fed to the bale breaker alternately from each bale until all are gone. The bale breaker has a capacity of about 80,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. The cotton is carried by endless mov- ing aprons so arranged that they may be moved so as to allow the cotton to be dropped into its proper bin. The bins should be as large as possible so as to allow A LARGE MIXING. At this point the sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed with the raw stock. The cut roving waste of the same length and grade of staple is not mixed at this place, but has to go through a special picking machine, which takes out the twist, then it is put through a picker and made into a lap, after which it is mixed with the raw stock, as will be shown later. The equipment for this division may include two or three processes of pickers. We will consid- er that it contains an opener and three processes of picking. THE BEATER used is generally of the porcupine pat- tern and the speed should be about 1,000 revolutions per minute for this class of work. The opener is gener- ally attached to the breaker picker and after passing the beater of the opener the cotton is passed to the feed rolls by a moving endless apron. At this point the cotton is in an open, fluffy state. The feed rolls condense the cot- ton, as it passes between the rolls, into a sheet, and in this state it is pre- sented to the beater of the breaker picker. This beater is generally of a rigid, two-bladed type and for the cot- ton in question has a speed of 1,500 revolutions per minute. The cotton is then blown on to a set of cages and compressed into a sheet, after which it passes through several sets of calen- der rolls between which it is further pressed. The total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or about 16 ounces to the yard. These laps are put uTi at the back of the intermediate picker and DOUBLED FOUR INTO ONE. The speed of this beater is about 1,- 450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut roving waste before spoken of is mixed in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of roving or bobbin waste. The speed of this beater is about 1,450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing it about 42 beats or blows per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 39 pounds or about a 14-ounce lap. These laps are then taken to the card, the draft of which for this class of work should not exceed 110. The fillet on the cylinder should be of No. 34 American wire or 110s English count and on the doffer and top flats should be No. 35 wire or 120s English count. The top flats should make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. THE CARDS should be stripped (both cylinder and doffer) three times a day and ground at least once a month. The cards should be reset after every grinding in all parts, except the top flats to the cylinder, which should be reset at least four times a year. The weight of sliver at the delivery end of the card should be about 65 grains per yard. The cotton is next put through three processes of drawing frames. Metallic rolls may be used to good ad- vantage on work of this description, the speed of the front roll at each proc- ess being 400 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the flnish- er drawing frame should be about 70 grains. The cotton is next put through the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. The roving is then put through THREE PROCESSES of fly frames. At the first in- termediate it is made into 1.50 hank roving, at the second in- termediate into 3 hank and at the jack frame into 9. This roving is then taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 40s yarn on a frame with the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches: diameter of ring. 1% inches; length of traverse, 61/2 inches: twist per inch, 28.46: rev- olutions per minute of spindles, 10.000. From here it is passed to the spooler and then to the twister, whpre it is twisted into 2-40s, and then back to 14 1 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the spooler. From here it goes to the warper and from the warper the beams are put up at the slasher, where it is sized, and then it is ready for the weave room. Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed in the piece if solid shades are wanted, but if two- colored fancies are made, the warp and the worsted yarn are dyed in the yarn, woven and finished. For piece dyes union colors are used, or the wool is dyed in an acid bath, rinsed and the pieces are cotton dyed cold. For union black, 5 per cent union black A, 30 per cent Glauber's salt. Boil till wool is dyed, and run without steam till cotton is dyed up to shade; if cotton is not' dark enough add some cotton black. The union fancy colors are dyed in the same way. Wool yarn dyeing. For 100 pounds yarn, 10 pounds Glauber's salt, 3 pounds sulphuric acid. Enter pieces at 150 degrees, bring to boil and boil 40 minutes. LIGHT SAGE GREEN. IVi ounces orange II; 1^4 ounces cy- anole B B; 1^4 ounce fast yellow S. MEDIUM SAGE GREEN. 6 ounces orange II; 2 ounces fast yellow S; 1 pound cyanole B B. DARK SAGE GREEN. 10 ounces orange I I; 3 ounces fast yellow S; 11/4 pounds cyanole B B. MEDIUM OLIVE GREEN. 114 pounds fast yellow S; 6 ounces orange II; 1 pound cyanole B B. OLIVE GREEN. 214 pounds fast yellow S; Vz pound orange 1 1; lYz pounds cyanole B B. BOTTLE GREEN. 3 pounds fast green bluish; Vz pound fast yellow S; Yz pound formyl violet S 4B. NAVY BLUE. 2 pounds indigo blue S G N; 2 ounces formyl violet S 4B. DARK NAVY BLUE. 4 pounds indigo blue S G N; % pound orange I I; Vz pound formyl vio- let S 4B. SLATE. 6 ounces alizarine blue SAP; Vz ounce orange I I; Yz ounce fast yellow G. RED. 4 pounds fast red N S; 6 ounces orange I I. ROSE. 3 pounds rhodamine B; 1 pound rhodamine 5G. SCARLET. 3 pounds brilliant scarlet IR. BROWN. 2yz pounds orange 11; Vz pound fast green bluish; 3 ounces fast acid vio- let lOB; Yz pound fast yellow G. The warps are dyed in the chain dyeing machine with rasi sulphur col- ors if possible. For 100 pounds warp: BLUE. 8 pounds immedial indone 3B; 16 pounds sodium sulphide; 8 pounds glucose; 3 pounds soda ash; 15 pounds Glauber's. SLATE. 3 pounds thion black G; 3 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. FAWN DRAB. 6 pounds immedial cutch O; 6 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 20 pounds Glauber's. GREEN. 4 pounds immedial yellow D; 4 pounds immedial indone 3B; 8 pounds sodium sulphide; 2 pounds soda ash; 30 pounds Glauber's salt. OLIVE. 7 pounds immedial olive 3G; 2 pounds immedial dark green B; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. NAVY BLUE. 10 pounds immedial dark blue B; 10 pounds sodium sulphide; 30 pounds Glauber's salt; 3 pounds soda ash. The fancy shades can also be dyed with one dip salt solors and tannine basic colors. CALICO. A calico may be defined as a cotton cloth with a figured design printed on one side; generally speaking, any printed cloth coarser than muslin, used principally for inexpensive dresses, such as shirtwaists, wrappers, and so on. The majority of inexpensive cotton fabrics are constructed on the one-up, one-dowQ system, or plain weave. Cal- ico is no exception to the rule. Its ornamentation, however, is given it after the cloth comes from the loom. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 145 As mentioned above, calico is a print- ed cloth, THE PRINTING being effected by means of a printing machine, which may be described as an elaborate machine with a rotating impression cylinder, on which the de- sign has been stamped, or cut. The oloth, in passing through the machine, comes in contact with the impression cylinder. The cylinder, revolving in a color trough, takes up the color and leaves the impression of the design on the cloth. Calicoes may be seen in al- most any color. The printing machine is capable of printing several COLORS in one design. Calicoes, however, are usually in but two colors, that is, one color for ground and one for the fig- ure. The ground color in most cases is effected by dyeing the oloth in some Fig. 1. solid color. After the cloth is dyed, the design is printed on to the cloth. The printed designs on calicoes may be somewhat elaborate or they may be some simple geometrical figures. In order, however, to comply with the true principles of art, such fabrics as calicoes should have but simple geo- metrical figures for their ornamental features. Fig. 1 shows a sample of calico, with a printed geometrical figure, the simplicity of which is in harmony with the structure of the fabric. We may here mention that with all machine repeating designs the fig- ures must be laid out in conform iry with the dimensions of the priiting roll. For instance, say, the printing roll measures six inches in circumfer- ence, and the design which we wish to print is but two inches in its verti- cal repeat, in order to have perfect repetition we must have three repeats of the design stamped on the impres- sion roll. The circumfcjeiijfc of the printing roll will, thereff'fe, control the size and proporti'-. of the design. The de- sign mus)- oe so adjusted that the re- peat will occur with the utmost ac- curacy. Calicoes are made in comparatively narrow widths. The one under dis- cussion is but 23% inches, finished. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 25^^ inches; width of fabric finished, 24 inches; ends in finished cloth per inch, 72; ends in warp, 1,700; ends per inch in reed 66 2-3; 1,200x2 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 per cent; weight of fabric, per yard, from loom, 2 ounces; weight of fabric imished, 2 ounces; warp all l-30s card- ed peeler. Filling: 52 picks per inch in loom; 52 picks per inch finished. Design. DBOHDHCn I ■GHDHaH uavamama amamamaa mauDmama DBiBoana mzimauDma Fig. 2. Drawing-in-draft. DonaDD-B DnaDDDBD aaaaawj'i DdDDBDCa DnaBODDD naBnnnoa ■Dnnaaaa FiK.3. Counts l-30s carded peeler. LOOM REQUIRED. The Northrop loom would be the most economical loom to use for cali- coes and similar fabrics. The warp is usually sized, in order to strengthen the yarn. In the sizing process about 10 or 15 per cent of weight of sizing material is added to the yarn, which consists chiefly of wheat flour or po- tato starch. FINISHING. The cloth, after it comes from the loom, is sent to the dyehouse. The first process is to boil it off, after which it is immersed in the dye tub. Calicoes are given what may be termed a "cheap cotton dye." By "cheap cotton dye" is meant that the colors are not fast, but will run or fade when sub- jected to water. After the fabric is dyed, it is then given to the printer, who ornaments the face of the cloth with some geo- 146 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSlSARY. metrical design; after wliicti it is prac- tically ready for the merchant. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns that make up calico may he made in either the first or second division of mills, as given in a pre- vious lesson. The counts of the yarns used for the particular fabric for this article are l-30s, both warp and fill- ing, and these are made out of 1% inches staple peeler cotton. After be- ing sampled, several bales are placed around the bale breaker, and fed to this machine, a little from each bale. By doing this a MORE EVEN YARN is apt to be obtained. After passing through the bale breaker the cotton is conveyed either by endless lattices or blower and trunking to the cotton bins. As large a mixing as possible should be made at one time. The raw stock for this fabric is put through an opener and three processes of pick- ing. The opener is never allowed to become less than half full when ma- chine is running, for reasons given in previous articles. The beater of this machine runs at a speed of about 900 revolutions per minute. After pass- ing through this machine, which is generally connected directly with the breaker picker, either by trunking or by an endless lattice, the cotton comes under the action of the feed rolls of the breaker picker, which compress it into a sheet, and it is in this form that it is presented to the beater. For this class of work a TWO-BLADED BEATER Is used and the speed of the beater at this machine is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the front end is 40 pounds, or about a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled four into one. The speed of the beat- er for this machine is about 1,350 revo- olutions per minute. The total weight of lap at the fro t is 37 pounds or 12 ounces to the yard. These laps are put up at the finisher picker, and doubled four into one. It is at this point that the cut-rovi g waste is mixed in with the raw stock in the proportion of three laps of raw stock to one lap of rovi-^g waste. It is understood that the bobbin waste has to go through a special process before being mixed with the raw stock. The speed of the beater for this machine is about the same as that of the intermediate pick- er, 1,350 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing under its ac- tion about 42 beats per inch. The to- tal weight of a lap at the front is 35 pounds or a 13-ounce lap. These laps are then taken to the card room, as needed, and put up at THE CARD. This card should have a draft not ex- ceeding 100. The cylinder fillet for this class of work should be composed of No. 33 or 100s English count wire, and the doffer fillet and that of tha top combs of No. 34 wire or 110s Eng- lish count. The speed of the licker- in is 300 revolutions per minute, and the top flats make one complete rev- olution every 50 minutes. The cards should be stripped three times a day, and ground at least once every month, and set at the time of grinding. Keep parts at the front of card cleaned of all fly and collect the fly from the flats before it accumulates and falls over the doffer or goes up under the flat comb and gets onto the fiats. The weight of the sliver at the front should be 65 grains per yard, the production about 750 pounds per week of GO hours. From the card the sliver is put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. At these machines the doubling is six into one. The draft at the different processes is as follows: Breaker, 4.50; intermediate, 7; finisher, 7.20. The- setting of the rolls is as follows: Dis- tance between front and second, 1%; between second and third,l%, third and back, 1% inches. The front roll makes- 400 revolutions per minute. The weight of sliver at the finisher draw- ing is 72 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber where it is drawn into .60 hank roving. Set rolls as follows: front to second, 1% inches; second to back, 1% inches. The slubber roving is put through two processes of fly frames at the first intermediate. The hank roving is 2.25 hank and at the next process it is drawn into 6. hank. The lays per inch of the roving on the bobbin at this machine are 33. Look out for the top rolls to see that they are always in the best of condition. From the jack frame the roving is taken to THE SPINNING ROOM where it is spun into 30s yarn. The particulars for a warp frame are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 147 diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6%; speed of spindle, 9,800 revolutions per minute; twist per inch 26.02. The yarn is then taken to the spooler and then to the warper. From the warper the beams are put through the slasher. A good sizing to be used for this fabric is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; cornstarch, 50 pounds; tal- low, three pounds; turpentine, one gill. Boil 30 minutes if the cloth is woven on a common loom. If woven on a Draper loom use of water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 50 pounds; tal- low, three pounds; turpentine, one gill. Boil 30 minutes. The filling yarn (30s) is made on a frame fitted as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 in- ches; speed of spindles, 8,300 revolu- tions per minute; twist per inch, 19.16. Printing Particulars. Most of the designs for calicoes and cotton cloth printing are made in Pa- ris, which has been tne headquarters for many years of new styles and fashions. The design is taken by the sketch maker,and drawn to scale, so that the engraver can apply it to the copper roller. Formerly all the printing was by hand (block) printing. Now ma- chines are made to print from one to 24 colors. A 12-color machine is the largest generally used, but there are a few 24-color printing machines in Europe. Each color has a separate roller and the engraver has to make the pattern fit on every roller, so that when the piece is printed the design is not spoilt and the colors mixed up. ENGRAVING THE ROLLERS is done by hand or machine, by the pentograph or the die machine. The printing machine turns out aJbout 400 to 800 50-yard pieces a day. There have been times where 1,000 50- yard pieces have been run in 12 hours, a one-color pattern, but for some de- signs and cloths only 250 pieces are run in a day. The pieces are singed and bleached, then sheared and brushed to take away all lint from the face of the piece. The pieces arc printed, dried, and steamed to fix the color, afterwards soaped and washed, then finished and folded, and made up, ready for the market, being generally packed in 20- piece lots, to be shipped to any point of the compass. There are MANY STYLES of calico printing. At present the steam styles are most prominent. The colors are the fastest and brightest to be obtained. The most important styles will now be considered. First in the list are alizarine colors, of almost every hue and shade, reds, pinks, pur- ples, browns, blues, yellows, oranges, etc. Alizarines are fixed on the fibre by chrome mordants. BLUE. Three pounds alizarine blue S paste, 20 per cent; one gallon starch thicken- ing; three pounds acetate chrome, 20 degrees Tw. After printing, the pieces are steamed for one hour, four pounds steam pressure, then soaped and washed. BASIC COLORS are good bright, fast colors fixed with tannine: 10 ounces auramine, li/^ pints of water, 1% pints of acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1x1; 21,4 pints acetic acid tannic acid solu- tion, 1x1. Steam and run through a bath of tartar emetic; wash and dry. The basis colors are very bright, and consist of every shade m the rainbow. Extracts of various dyewoods are still used for some styles, fixed with chrome or alumina. PIGMENT STYLES are fixed with albumen as vermilion red, chrome green, ultramarine blue, etc. Indigo blue is dyed, then dis- charged white, yellow, orange and other colors are printed on the dyed pieces. Aniline black is an important style with many resist colors printed first, the black padded afterwards and oxidized. This is extensively used. Patterns are printed on the cloth with mordants of iron and alum. The cloth is then aged and dunged, dyed with alizarine, and the old madder styles produced, which were in such demand 50 years ago. Then there are turkey-red styles, with discharge white, yellow, blue, green, black on red ground; discharge white and col- ors on blues, browns, wines, etc. In- digo blues are dyed in the vat with a large proportion of synthetic indigo and discharges printed on. There is also direct indigo printing with the glucose process. New styles and combination of col- ors are produced every month and fast- er and brighter colors printed each season. H8 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. PERCALE. Percale may be defined as a closely woven fabric, made with a good qual- iity' of 'cotton yarn. Percale is of S^rencb' origin and was originally ma^e with linen yarn,henoe the name, as'itiis sometimes called French cam- bric. The fi:ner qualities of percale are used for handkerchiefs, aprons, etc. When used for these purposes they are not printed, but bleached, after the Habric comes from the loom. • Vi V St — • — V 'Xi- • • • • !«!• {> • 1 Ai A A Fig. 1. Percale, however, is chiefly used for dres's fabrics, such as shirt-waisl suits for spring and summer wear, and as such, is quite common. ' Percale, when intended for dress fabrics, is usually printed on one side with some neat geometrical figure. The printed figure is usually in black, al- though some may be seen in red or blue. The fabric is bleached before it is subjected to the printing opera- tion. . A CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE of percale is the lack of gloss, or its dull finish, due to the fact that it is not subjected to any pressure during the finishing process. Percales may also be described as plain woven fab- rics with a printed design on one side. The color used for the printed fig- ures is quite durable, in so far that it will not readily fade and will wear almost as long and well as the fabric. The printed designs on percales are usually plain but neat geometrical fig- ures. The polka dot pattern is quite common. It produces a very neat ef- fect, especially when dots are in black. Striped designs are also very common. Some very neat effects may be ob- tained when using a stripe in connec- tion with some simple geometrical figure. Fig. 1 shows on an enlarged scale a design for a stripe percale. The stripes as a rule run in the direction of the warp. Stripes running vertically tend to increase the appearance of height,, while stripes running horizon- tally tend to decrease the impression of height; for this reason short per- ■^ ^nanBnBDBDBDBn DBn■^BDBDBDB^■DB BT tannBDBDBrBnBa n«iinin"ii ■ Bnaaw Bii inBnBPB'Br wi n«Tn«~irariBDBO^DH Bin^iinHDiinBDw i rjniT» lai-B b^whh Bii i^-nni»rrnBDBn aTmT^niR"iii una Bll I^^TT^nwDHCBQ mim~iBrBn»nBQB fl mTni«~i"«'"BnBDBn BrU "HnBDWnBOBDBG Fig. 2. Weave. naDBCnCBDDDBDDDB □DBDCDBDDDBDDDBD DBDDDBDDDBDDDBna BDnaBDnaBDnDBcnn No. 3 — 4 repeats. sons are advised to select dress goods with the stripe runnmg vertically. Percale, like most cotton fabrics, is made in several qualities, as regards counts of yarn used, and the number of ends and picks per inch. We will here give an analysis of a good grade: ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 3S% inches; width of faJbric finished,36 inches; ends per inch, finished, 85; ends in body of warp, 3,(>80; 20 ends for selvedge; to- tal ends, 3,100. Take-up of warp during weaving 6 per cent; weight of rabric per yard from loom, SVz ounces. Finished weight, iJ% ounces per yard; warp, all l-30s carded peeler; reed, 1,400x2. Filling, all l-36s combed peeler, 74 picks per inch in loom; 74 picks per inch, finished. LOOM REQUIRED. Percale, like most cotton faibrics, is A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 149 woven on looms with high running speed. Percales are plain woven fab- rics, consequently no dohhy is re- quired. The Northrop loom would De the mosit economical loom to use in the manufacture of percale, or df a North- rop loom is not available use any plain weaving loom and draw warp straight on 8 harnesg. Considerable care should be exercised in the weav- ing. No broken picks should be al- lowed to pass, as they will show quite distinctly in the finished fabric. FINISHING. After the fabric comes from the loom it is sent to the bleach house, where it is first boiled off. Then it is bleached. After the bleaching process the fa;bric is ready lor the printer. After the printing operation the falbric is slight- ly stiffened, by being passed through a size trough. The size used for stif- fening is usually corn, wheat, rice, barley, potato or farina. Any of these will give the desired effect. The faJbric passes from the sizing trough on to the drying cylinders.after Which it is folded; then it is ready for shipment. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yam of which percale is composed are made in mills of the second division. The counts of yarn vary according to the quality of the cloth. In this lesson we will consider the count of the filling yarn to be 36s and the warp yarn to be 30s. The fill- ing yam is comja mnmamnmamac saaaaaaaaaA Fig. 2. DsaaGaaaaaaaDmaaaaaaaaaa saaaaaaDaaaamGaaaaaaaaaa Dsaaaaaaaaaaa^DaaaDaDaDa SGaaaaaaaaaasaaaaDaaaGaD Fig. 4. Dfflasaa^^saanaaQaoffiDGaDDaDG'BDoa SGBBaaQaBQBaQasGBGGaDaBGGaca aSGGBGGBGGBGGflDfflBQBBQBBQBBna SGBGGBDGBGGaDGSJGBQBBQaaQaBQB Fig. 5. Fig. 3 illustrates a sample made with Fig. 4. This shows practically the same effect as Fig. 1, but has been made with an easier weave. Figs. 4 and 5 will serve to show the two principal forms of construction of bedford cords. Fig. 4 is complete on 24 ends and 4 Fig. 3. picks. One repeat of this weave makes two ribs or cords in Fig. 3. The line or cut effect is formed by ends 1 and 2. and 13 and 14, shown in type b cords alterniating so that when one rib is weaving plain.the same pick of fill- ing is floating under the next one. The plain picks of the succeeding repeat slide over and cover these long 'floats of filling, making the face effect plain and yet striped. The advisability of using this ' type of weave in preference to that shown in Fig. 2 is in the fact that it allows the ends of one cord to be raised out GsiaBnBBBnBnBBBaBaBafflnBBBnBcrcnnBrnjiBB ffinBDBBBGBnBBBC^nBBtPaBnBBBDB smWCB^BB aSaBBBGBaBBBQBGBBBnfflCBDBWB'^B^'BWDBPB fflaBBTGBGBBBDBnBBBnffir-'BnBr'BBB "linBD GBBBaBDBBBDBnBBBQBnsPBBGwnBTp-BPOWBDB fflGBGBGBBBGBGBBBDBGffiGBBBDBGaBlsnaaSBBa Fii of the way, while the other is weav- ing plain, and the loom is allowed to raise the same number of ends on each pick. As every two picks of filling inter- lace only with the ends of every alter- nate rib, and float at the back of the next one. solid lines of color Ipngth- wise of the piece may be made by ar- ranging the warp yams of one rib of one color and those of the other rib of 154 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. a different color, and picking the fill- ing 2 and 2 so that each color inter- laces only with the same color of warp. A variety of colored stripes may be made by combining the types Figs. 2 and 4, varying the number and sizes of sections as desired. To get extra weight without altering the appearance of the face, extra warp yarns, termed wadding ends, are in- serted between the face weave and the filling floating at the back of the rib. When these wadding ends are coarse, they give a pronounced rounded ap- coarse reed in a fairly heavy single box loom. One warp only is re- quired unless the counts of the wad- ding and face yarns dlfCer. The question of dividing the two cutting ends with the reed or of put- ting them in the same dent depends upon the effect desired and the qual- ity of the fabric. The stripes may be varied in width as desired, or the sizes of the different ribs in one pattern may vary within certsin limits. The construction of samples for Figs. 1, 3 and 6 are as follows: eBaDnBDDBBaDDDaaDffDDBBDDanDCDBBfflDSBHHHBBHQBaHaSBHBt^'-HHartlHHBWB nfflgs5]aa^=a33rtj:3ij?;na ji--iaa'-if!aa«asinffiaD«nnBBnDDDnnnBunQHaDDDODDBB ggB«?!?aHasiiiiC3asi- na-i-ias- : □□KiF-iHaHsiJifflnnnDDDBBDnBDDDDDCLk,^ ^dbdddddb □fflCBHaD«aDnanDaBBCDBauDDnDCH»»Dffii!i>.fEHnp:t=-GH' ■ :HH i HE'- :•:□?;='"--□□■■■ SBDBHBGaDDGDDBuGBBDDDDGDDBDDBBnftni'^aBaHHiijcBHH' -^BaH^" ■ HC::^ .- aa,;. a HHaiaB GffliB!«*HaaeH3s™aai,..aa^ :■ aa'i-iaaa-^wGfflBGGGaGBcaBBaGGGaDCBa ■■ggggQ fflGteifc:e3ucmaaa«s[3asaHHK: ; aa:.:' ,aa'"-i-!^Ba«BQaacGGGHBaaHGGGGcaa»BGaBGD GH««GGGGGGGBHnG«GGGGDaCBBCr,»GGaffiWs|sEapEaai--ts;EaitEnaBi:EHBBiiEa«»« EBGBDGaDGBGa«BGaGCGGGBLCB»CrDaGEGPB»GHi»PaaPtEGailBaaHBaaBliiHaiaP« DfflHgfHH««QggaaaiJBiHQasaa6;'«;aaatai=!GEa«B»GGGaaaGBaGBBaGacGacBGGBBa fflnaeiiHHBBHHHfcaHelhiHais'^&EQSiiBaHSBHfflCGBBaDBGGaDGDaBBGQBDGLGaQDBBB Fig. 8. pearan'ce to the cord, more so than if several ends of finer yarns a.re . used. Wadding ends are generally coarser than the face ends. Fig. 5 illustrates the type of weave used when a bedford cord is re- quired with a fine face and a heavy weight, or where a well-rounded cord is desired. Ends shown with type □ are wadding encis. These are al- ways raised when the filling is float- ing at the back of the cord and de- pressed when the filling is interweav- ing with the face ends. Fig. 6 illustrates a bedford cord with a twill weave on the face. The twill runs to the right in one rib and to the. left in the next one, making a herring- "bone effect. Fig. 7 shows the face weave for Fig. 6, ends 1 and 2 and 19 and 20 being the cutting ends. The weave for this particular sam- ple lias been made on the principle shown in Fig. 2, but weave Fig. 8 would be nreferable. In this figure type ffl Indicate cutting ends; b wad- ding ends; m and solid black type face cord ends; solid type and m show the face weave. The wadding ends would be drawn 2 in each heddle. There are 12 of these in each rib. The cutting ends in Fig. 6 might have been arranged to work 2 and 2, instead of plain, because of the large number of picks per inch and the rel- ajtive amount of in terracing of the other ends. When the face weave is plain, two plain ends should separate the ribs. Bedford cords are firm fabrics,soTOe- what heavy on account of the large number of ends and picks required per inch. They are usually woven with a For Fig. 1, 96 sley. 88 pick; for Fig. 3. 116 sley, 108 pick; for Fig. €, 220 sley, 156 pick. No. 6 contains 132 face ends and 88 wadding ends per inch, making a to- tal of 220. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery for the manufacture of bedford cord will be found in the second and third division of mills, as given in a previousi lesson. There are generally three counts of yarn used for each piece of cloth, one for filling, one for the warp, and one for the cords. These counts vary according to the quality of the fabric being made, generally several different qualities being made under one management. The counts of jarn which will be considered in this article as composing the cloth will be number 40s for warp, number 60s for filling and number 20s for the cord or wadding ends. These counts are made up of a good quality of cotton of aibout 1% to 1% inch staple. At the mixing bins the waste sliver up to the slubber is mixed in as collected, which should be done at reg- ular intervals during the day. The one in charge of the picker room should see that too much waste is not being made and also that the sliver is well torn to pieces before being put into the mix- ing. A good way to check how much waste is being made is to have the picker man weigh it as- it comes in and at the end of every week give his list to the overseer. In this way the over- seer may be sure that he is getting a correct list of the amount of waste be- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 155 ing made and can act accordingly. The raw stock is put through either two or three processes of picking, TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING being generally used, although the particulars for three processes will be given here. The raw stock is fed to the hopper and from here passes under a beater, the speed of which is 1,050 revolutions per minute. From here it is conveyed to the feed rolls of the breaker picker, in a fluffy state, by an endless lattice. The feed rolls con- dense it and present the sheet of cot- ton to the action of the beater, which is generally of the rigid type, having either two or three arms. If a two- armed beater is used, the speed should be about 1,500 revolutions per min- ute, and if a three-bladed beater, the speed should be proportionately less. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater should be about 1,400 revolutions per minute, the total weight of the lap at the front being 35 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point that the CUT ROVING WASTE is mixed in, it having first been made into a lap after passing through a spe- cial process, in the proportion of one lap roving waste to three laps raw stock. The speed of this beater, if of a two-bladed rigid type, should be about 1,350 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through it about 40 beats per inch. The total weight of the laps at the front should be about 35 pounds or a 12l^-ounce lap. A variation of half a pound either side of standard is allowed. Laps with a variation of more than the above should be treated as given in a pre- vious article. The laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should not be less than 100. The speed of the top flats should be one' complete revolu- tion every 45 minutes. The wire fillet used should be of medium fineness, about number 110 for cylinder and number 120 for the doffer and top flats. THE WEIGHT OF SLIVER at the front should weigh 65 grains per yard, the production for tho 40s and 60s yam being 650 pounds per week of 60 hours, and foi* the 20s yarn 750 pounds per week. This sliver is put through three processes of drawing, six ends up, the revolutions per minute of the front roll being 400 at the finisher drawing. The weight at the finisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. The drawing should be sized three times a day, and if the variation is more than one grain per yard, the draft gear should be changed to keep the drawing at standard weight. The drawing sliver is put through the slub- ber and made into .50 hank roving. FLY FRAMES. The roving for 40s and 60s yarn is run through three processes of fly frames and for 20s is run through two processes. For 60s yarn the different hanks at each process are as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second, 4; jack, 12 hank. For 40s yarn the details are as follows: First, 1.40; second, 3.40; jack, 10. For 20s yam: First, 1.50; sec- ond, 4.50. The warp yarns are frame spun and for 40s use a frame the same as given in a previous lesson. For 20s use a frame having a gauge of 2% inches, diameter of ring 2 inches, length of traverse 7 inches. The filling yarn may be either mule or ring spun; if the latter, use a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; diam- eter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5l^ inches; revolutions per minute of spindles, 8,000. The warp yarn is put through the spooler, warper and slashing machines and then is ready for the loom. A great many mills comb their fill- ing for weaving bedford cords. Dyeing Particulars. SLATE. Two per cent immedial black N B; 2 per cent sodium sulphide: 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. PEARL. One-half per cent immedial direct blue B; % per cent Immedial black N B; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. BROWN. Three per cent immedial cutch O; 5 per cent immedial brown R R; % per cent immedial black N B; 9 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BLACK. ITifteen per cent immedial black N loG A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BOTTLE GREEN. Eight per cent immedial dark green B; 1 per cent imimedial yellow D; 9 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent immedial indone B; 4 per cent immedial indone R; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. Six per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One per cent erika pink; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt SKY BLUE. Four per cent tetrazo sky blue F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's salt. IMPERIAL. PURPLE. On a tannine and tartar emetic mor- dant. Dye 2 per cent methyl violet 2 R. CHINTZ. Chintz is a fine, soft, cotton fabric, printed with elaborate designs of flow- ers and foliage in several colors. The fabric is used principally for house- hold purposes, such as lambrequins, coverings, etc. It is also utilized for such purpO'Ses as masquerade dresses and the like. Chintz is hut a plain woven fabric, elaborately ornamented with designs by means of the printing machine, sev- eral different colors being employed. From this point of view we will con- sider the fabric. COLORINGS FOR CHINTZ. There is practically no combination of colors that may not be used for the ornamentation of a fabric of this de- scription. However, the high-colored designs are most popular. Following are POINTS TO CONSIDER in planning a design for chintz, also colors to use. In the first place it is necessary to have a clear idea of what the main characteristics of the design are to be, before the work of arrange- ment is begun. The character of the design should be influenced largely by the purposes the fabric is intended for; this brings in the question of fitness, which is the application of a certain class of design to certain materials. It is evident that the style of desigi that would be suitable for a floor covering would be entirely unsuitable for a printed cotton fabric. The considera- tion of style is a subject that the de- signer is bound to be governed by, simply because the designs are for a commercial purpose; consequently in planning a design, the style, scale and character of the design, the material it is to be applied to, and its purposes should be understood by the designer. Chintz is A PURELY ORNAMENTAL FABRIC. The designs, therfore, may be rich, both in colors and design. In Figure 1 we give an idea of the character of design used for fabrics of this de- scription. The ground may be a light shade of blue, the leaves and stems in two shades of green, while the flow- ers may have three shades of red graduating from pink to dark red; a happy blending of color is essential ro the well-being of a design. ANALYSIS. Inches. Width of warp in reed 36% Width of fabric flnished 35% Ends per inch finished. 72 Ends id warp 2556 Selvedge 24 Total ends in warp 2580 Reed 1250x2 Take-up of warp during weaving, 5- per cent; weight of fabric finished, 1% ounces per yard. Warp yarn 1-44 cotton. Filling 56 picks — 1-80 cotton. LOOM REQUIRED. Chintz is usually woven on high run- ning speed looms, such as a Northrop loom. The warp is drawn in on eight harnesses, straight drafting. The warp yam is well sized so as to avoid breakages of the warp in the weaving. FINISHING. The fabric, after it comes from loom, is sent to the printing house, where it is boiled off, preparatory to the printing operation; chintz is not dyed; all the colors are applied by means of the color rolls in the print- ing machine. Several rolls are re- quired, each roll having a separate A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 157 portion of the design and likewise a Carding and Spinning Particulars. separate color. The yarms of which chintz is com- After the printing, the fabric is posed are made in mills having the pasised through a. calender press, the second division of equipment of n:a~ rolls of which are well heated and chinery. The yams which miabe up tightly set, which gives the glazed fin- the sample under description are as ish which the fabric possessies. follows: filling yam No. 80s and warp 158 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. yarn 44s. The tilling yam is made of good cotton of IVz inches staple. This is put through a bale breaker, as has been previously described. Either two or three processes of picking nnay be used, many overseers claiming the two-process method to be the better. The raw stock, after being allowed to stand in the mixing bin as long as possible to dry out, is put into the hopper of the opener, and after be- ing lifted up by the spiked apron ■comes in time under the action of the lieater. This beater is provided with four arms, the blades of which are composed of leather. The speed of this beater for this kind of stock is 1,000 revolutions per minute. THE "RAW STOCK is then passed to the breaker picker by an endless lattice. This lattice should be varnished frequently so as to make it smooth. This not only ap- plies to this lattice, but to all lattices in the picker room. The feed rolls of this machine compress die cotton into a condensed sheet and it is struck from these rolls by a beater. This is generally of a rigid type, having either two or three arms; if of two- blade type it makes about 1,500 revo- lutions per minute. The laps at the head end weigh 40 pounds or a IS- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intemiediate and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater is about 1.400 revolutions per minute, the total weight of the lap heing 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher pinker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point that the cut roving is mixed in, as has been de- scribed in a previous article. The speed of this beater is 1.350 revolu- tions per minute if of a rigid two- bladed type; if the beater has three blades it rotates proportionately slow- er. The total weight of a lap at the front is 39 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. THE EVENNESS OP WORK. Ijook out to see that the eveners on all the pickers are in proper work- ing order, for remember the greater part of the evenness of a lap depends upon this part of the picker. See that the drafts are properly directed and of the right strength to do the most good. Keep the fly well cleaned out from under the machines and don't be afraid of oil. but get it in the proper place. Be sure and have everything neat and clean. The laps are put up at the card. It has always been a bone of contention whether it is proper to use a heavy lap and slow speed or light carding and higher speed. Heavy carding means low drafts, and light carding, so called, hiigh drafts. For this lesson light-weight carding will be used. The draft of the card should be 115, which gives a 45-grain sliver. Tlie speed of the flats should be one complete revolution every 40 minutes. The speed of the licker is 350 revolutions per minute. Strip three times daily and clean thorough- ly twice a day. Keep front of card free from fly waste all the time. The production of the card for a week of GO hours is 550 pounds. This is put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING, the weight of the sliver at the finish- er being 60 grains per yard. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- tions per minute. The top rolls of a drawing frame should always be kept well vamishe'd. the leather being free from flutes, ridges, aicks; in fact, they should be in perfect shape. The drawing sliver is next put up at the slubber and made into .55 hank rov- ing. This is put through three proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being asfollows: First, 1.50 hank; second, 4.80 hank; fine or jack, IG hank. This roving may be taken to either the mule or ring spin- ning room. If to the latter, use a frame having the following particu- lars for spinning 80s yarn: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, IVi', length of traverse, 5 inches; rev- olutions per minute of spindles, 7,400; twist per inch, 29.07. The YARN AFTER BEING TREATED in some manner to make it damp, is carried to the weave room. What has been said of the cot- ton for the filling yarn may also aj)- ply to the warp yarn with the follow- ing exceptions: In the picker room, length of staple, 1% inches; weight of lap at finisher picker, 40 pounds. In card room at the cards, draft not over 105; speed of flats, one revolution m 50 minutes. Production 675 to 700 pounds, at drawing fraane, weight of sliver, 70 grains per yard; at slubber a .50 hank roving, which is nut through three processes of fly frames, the hank at each being as follows: First, 1 50 hank: second, 4 hank: fine, 10 hank. This is carried to the ring spinning room and made into 44s yarn on a frame with the follow- ing particulars: Gauge of frame, 234. inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; reA'^olutions per minute of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 159 spindles, 10,000; twist per inch, 29.65. The yarn is then spooled, boam warped, and these are run through the slasher, where the requisite number of ends is run on a warp beam at the head end. A good size mixing is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; soap (white), 11/2 pounds; parafine wax about 1 pound. Printing Particulars. The colors for this style of goods are mostly light bright shades. LIGHT BLUE. Two ounces methyl blue B; 1 pint acetic acid. 10 degrees Tw. ; 2 pints water; 6 piuts gum water, 1:1; % pint acetic acid tannic acid solution, 1:1. LIGHT GREEN. One and one-half ounces brilliant green crystals; 1 pint acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 2 pints water; 5 pints gum water. 1:1;% pint acetic acid tannic acid solution. 1 : 1. LIGHT PINK. One and one-half ounces rhodamine 5 G; 3 pints water; 11/3 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution, 70 — 1,000; V2 pint acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. RED. Six ounces rhoduline red B; 2 pints water; 1% pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; IV2 pints acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. LIGHT MAUVE. One-half ounce methyl violet 6 B; 2 pints water; lVi2 pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; % pint acetic acid tannine solution, 1:1. ROYAL BLUE. Six and one-half ounces Victoria blue B; 11/^ pints acetic aoid,10 degrees Tw.; 2y2 pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 1^/2 pints acetic acid tan- nine solution. 1:1. LIGHT YELI;OW. Five ounces duramine I I; 1% pints acetic acid, 10 degrees Tw.; 1% pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1: 1; IVi pints acetic and tannin© solution, 1 : 1. ROSE. Four ounces rhodamine 6G; 4% pints water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; ?A/2 pints tragacanth solution, 70 — 1,000; 1 pint acetic acid tannine solution, 1 : 1. LIGHT BROWN. Six ounces Bismarck brown G; 2 pints acetic acid. 10 degrees Tw.; Vj, pint glycerine, 45 degrees Tw.; 2Vz pints water; 6 pints gum water, 1:1; 3 pint acetic acid tannine solutio.i, 1 : 1. LIGHT OLIVE. One pint of the light yellow color; 1 pint of light brown color; % pint light green color; well mixed and strained through a cloth. With different pro- portions of these colors any shade can be obtained. These colors are well mixed in a tub or coipper pan, strained through a cloth, and printed in a printing ma- chine. The pieces are dried, steamed one hour, without pressure, passed through a bath of tartar emetic, soap- ed at 90 degrees F. , washed and dried. The pieces are then run through a starch mangle and starched, then cal- endered to finish required. ORGANDIE (Plain and Fipred). An organdie may be defined as a very fine translucent muslin, used ex- clusively for dress goods. The fabric is made in a variety of qualities as regards the counts of yarns used. This naturally influences the number of ends and picks per inch in the fabric. The fabric is also made in a variety of widths, ranging from 18 to 60 inches. The fabric, as already mentioned, is used exclusively for dress goods. The plain organdie is very popular in pure white or bleached, although considera- ble quantities are dyed in solid colors of light shades, such as pale blue and various pinks, w'hile the figured organ- die is usually bleached, then printed with small floral designs. The printed design is usually in from two to four colors and in delicate shades in con- formity with the material. The design itself is also quite deli- cate. In a design for a fabric of this char- acter, the scale of the pattern should not be too large. It should not ex- ceed 4% inches in the repeating of it as the folds of the dress and the nu- merous seams would destroy the effect 160 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. of the repeat if it were much larger. The accompanying sketch shows a design for the fabric in question; the design shows a rose spray rendered in a natural manner. A color scheme for the same would be to have the flowers pink or yellow, while the leaves and stems may be in green; this against a White ground should give a pleasing effect. A delicate design and color scheme are essential for this kind of fabric. Organdie, considered in rela- tion to cost, as a wearing material is quite an expensive fabric; however, the retail price apparently seems to dis- prove this fact. Our reason for the statement that the fabric is not an in- expensive material is that it has a finish peculiar to itself, so that when subjected to soap and water it will not have the same appearance as before. It loses its crisp feeling en- tirely: consequently an organdie is worn by many until soiled, then dis- carded. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 32 inches; width of fabric finished, 30y2 inches : ends per inch in reed, 76; ends in warp, 2,440; ends per inch finished, 80. Reed, 1.400x2. Take-up of warp during weaving, 7 per cent; weight of fabric, about 15 yards to one pound. Warp yarn, 1-80 combed Sea Island. Filling, 1-20S combed Sea Island; 88 picks per inch. LOOM REQUIRED. Organdie is but a plain woven fab- ric. The ornamentation of the figured fabric is effected by means of the printing press; consequently any smooth running high speed loom may be used in the weaving of this cloth. However, as the Northrop loom with warp stop motion would answer best, the warp may be drawn in straight on eight harnesses; in using a consider- able number of ends per inch, it is safe to use at least eight harnesses, so as to avoid heddle chafing. The warp preparatory to weaving is given a fair sizing with white gum in order to give it strength. FINISHING. The fabric is stiffened by sizing it with such ingredients as dextrine, dul- cine, albumen, casein, etc., after which it is run through the calender, which slightly glazes the surface of the fab- ric, thus completing the finishing proc- ess. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which organdies are composed require the equipment of machinery found in the second or third division of mills, as given in a previous lesson. This class of goods requires a very fine grade of cotton, and generally both warp and filling yarns are made of combed stock. The counts of yarn vary, according to the grade of goods to be made. In this article it will be considered that the make-up of the cloth is as follows: 80s warp and 120s filling yarn. These are made from Sea Island stock of 1% to 1% inch staple. Sea Island cotton as a whole requires just as little picking as possible and still get the dirt out. Sea Island cotton is generally put through an opener and one process of picking, although some overseers use two processes. This stock is not put through the bale breaker, but is GENERALLY MIXED BY HAND. If any bales are found which are not up in grade and staple they should be placed one side and not put into the mixing. The mixing should be made from several bales at once, so as to get the mixing as even as possible. At this point the sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber is mixed i'l. The sliver should be pulled into short lengths so that it will not be so apt to become wound around the pin beater of the opener. The hopper should be kept more than half full. The cotton is passed from this machine A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ICl directly to the finisher picker; the apron of this picker is divided up into yard lengths and the loose cotton is s.pread evenly over it. About lu ounces to the yard is the weight used. The beater for this class of goods is generally of a rigid two-bladed type, the speed of it being less than those that have been previously given. The speed of the beater is about 1,200 rev- olutions per minute, wnich gives the cotton of this length passing through the picker about 29 beats per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of picker is 30 pounds, or a 10- ounce lap. The usual points that have been previously given should be looked out for and in addition the SPEED O*^ THE BEATER should be watched to see that it is not putting neps into the cotton. These laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should be higfh, not less than 125, and on some Sea Island stock the draft runs as high as 180. The card wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 120s (English count) and for the doffer and flats 130s. The flats should be speeded up to take out more flat waste or, in other words, the card with HO flats should make one revolution every 35 minutes. The flats are speeded up by lagging the flat pulley on the maia cyl- inder shaft. Close settings should be used and these should be gone over every time the card is ground, which should be once every month. Grind lightly. Strip three times a day and keep the cards clean, especially the fronts. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 45 grains per yard and the production about 225 to 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. Be sure that the feed plate is set at the proper distance from the licker-in, so that the staple will not be broken. On most makes of cards the licker-in is speeded too high for this class of cot- ton, and better results will be obtained if the speed is dropped to 275 and not more than 300 revolutions per minute. It is claimed that a high speed of the licker-in tends to put neps into the cotton of long staple. THE LICKER-IN should be speeded so as to tear the sheet or lap apart and take out the seed, etc., left by the picker. The cot- ton is next taken to the sliver lap ma- chines and made into a lap. The weight of the lap should be about 300 grains per yard. The doublings at the sliver lap are 14 into 1 when 6- head 9-incli lap combers are used, or 20 into 1 when 8-head lOi^-inch laps are used. The laps from the sliver lap machine are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of laps per yard being 280 grains. These laps are put up at the comber. The doub- lings at the comber depend on how many heads it has. For the past two or three years the comber builders have sold practically nothing but 8- head combers, so we will consider that the mill is equipped in this manner. The doublings would then be 8 into 1. For this class of goods from 22 to 25 per cent waste is taken out and the weight of the sliver at the front is 48 grains. This is put through TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING the weight at the front of the fi-nisher drawing being about 60 grains per yard. Be sure to keep the top leather rolls well varnished and in good condition. See that all parts of the machine are working properly. The sliver is next put up to the slub- ber and made into .80 hank roving. In some mills the top leathers are var- nished and in addition to this, on long- stapled stock, larger top rolls are used This roving is put through three processes of fly frames for 120s filling yarn, the hank roving at each process being as follows: At the first inter- mediate 2.25 hank, at the second inter- mediate 6.50 hank and at the fine frame 24 hank. On this hank roving it is a good plan to either have self- weighted rolls on second intermediate and fine frames or run them without weights, all the weight being on the back top roll. The roving is then spun on a mule into 120s. Tlie slubber roving for the warp yam is put through three processes of fly frames, the bank roving, being as follows: At the first, 2. 25; at tto second, 5 hank, and at the jack, 16 hank. Keep the top leather rolls in good condi- tion and watch the traverse motion. Look out for twist and don't get too much tension, so as to pull the roving when it is between the boss of the front roll and the flyer, as this tends to cause uneven roving. Don't let the hands cut the roving from the bobbin, and weigh the cut rcwing. This roving is taken to the ring spinning room and spun into SOs yam on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5Vi. inches; twist per inch, 39.08; speed of spindles, 9,600. From here it passes throiTgh the spooler and warper, and the beams for this machine are put up 162 A COTTON PABRICS GLOSSARY. at the slasher, and after passing through this machine the required number offends are run on to a warp at the front end. A GOOD-SIZED MIXING for 80s yam, if sley and pick are high, is as follows: Water,100 gallons; pota- to starch, 70 to 75 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; soap (white), 2 pounds. Boil 2 hours and let stand 10 hours before using. Keep agitator ininning and keep size mixing almost at boiling point. Dyeing Particulars. Following are dyeing particulars for organdie: PINK. Two ounces rhodamine pink 6 G; 1 qt. water; l^/^ pints acetic acid 90 de- grees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; % pints acetic acid tannine solution .1 : 1. LIGHT YELLOW. Four ounces thioflavine T; 2 qt. water; 1% pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw. ; 3 pints tragacanth solution .70: 1,000; 1 pirit aceti-3 acid tannine solu- tion 1 : 1. PEACOCK BLUE. Four ounces turquoise blue G; 2 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; 11/4 pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. ROSE. Four ounces brilliant rhoduline red B; 2 qt. water; 1% pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth so- lution 70 : 1,000; 1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. BLUE. Four ounces methylene blue B B; 2 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 de- grees Tw.; 2 pints tragacanth solution; 1% pints acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. GREEN. Four ounces emerald green crj's- tals; 2% pints water; 2 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; IV2 pints acetic acid, tannic acid solution 1 : 1. LIGHT BROWN. Four ounces Bismarck brown B; 1 qt. water; 2 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 3 pints tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000; 11^ pints acetic acid tannic acid solution 1:1. SAGE GREEN. Mix together one gallon green color; iy4 gallon light yellow; % gallon light brown. VIOLET. One ounce methyl violet 4 B; 1 qL. water; 1^/4 pints acetic acid, 6 degrees Tw.; 6 pints gum water 1:1;% pint acetic acid tannine solution 1 : 1. SLATE. One gallon blue color; 1 pint light yellow; well mixed with Vz gallon tragacanth solution 70 : 1,000. The color is then strained through a cloth, and is ready to nrint. All the colors are well boiled in a copper pan. and strained through a cloth. After the printing process, they are dried, steaxned one hour without pressure, passed through a bath of tartar emet- ic, and soaped at 90 degrees P., rinsed and dried. The goods are starched and finished on a tenter frame. ALBATROSS CLOTH, Cotton albatross cloth is a plain fabric made in imitation of a worsted fabric of the same name. It is light in weight, and is used principally for dress goods. It is sometimes used instead of bunting for railroad flags. The ends and picks per inch are few and the width of the cloth is narrow. The items of construction for a cot- ton albatross are as follows: Warp. 1,024 ends of No. 28s cotton; IC ends have been allowed for selvedges. Filling, 48 picks per inch of No. 36s cotton; 48 sley reed. Width in reed. 23 inches. Width finished. 21 inches. This fabric can be made very read- ily on an automatic loom, or on any of the light, fast running, single box cotton looms, four wire heddle har- nesses, or the regular twine harnesses, on the plain cotton loom only being required. If wire harnesses are used on a cam loom, the ends should be drawn through the heddles, 1, 3, 2, 4. Being considered a fair quality of cloth, it is necessary to match the pick when weaving it. The goods are finished by being burled, sheared, washed, singed, dyed, rinsed, dried and pressed; care being A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 163 taken not to press them too hard. The singeing process is sometimes omitted. Albatross cloth is generally sold in -white, black, or solid colors, being piece dyed. It is not used to any ex- tent for printing purposes. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for aliiatross cloth are made in mills having the equipment of machinery found in the second divi- sion of mills, as given in a previous lesson. For this article , we will con- sider the filling yarn to-be number 36s. This would be made of 1%-inch sta- ple American cotton. The warp yarn is 28s count and may be made from the same state and grade of cotton. The mixing is done either by hand or by a bale breaker. The cotton, if mixed in the former manner, should be allowed to stand longer than if mixed by the latter method. This is to allow the cotton TO DRY OUT. At this point the good sliver waste from machines up to the slubber is mixed in, care being taken that the sliver is broken up into short lengths. The cotton is next put through an opener and either two or three proces- ses of picking (generally three). The opener hopper should be kept at least half full in order to always have an even amount of cotton fed to the break- er picker. This picker is generally pro- vided with a two-bladed, rigid beater, which rotates at a speed of 1,400 revo- lutions per minute. The TOTAL WEIGHT OF LAP at the front end of this picker is about 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled four into one. This is al- so provided with a two-bladed, rigid type of beater, the speed being 1,500 revolutions per minute. This style of beater is not always used, as will be noted later. The total weight of lap at the front is about 38 pounds or a 12-ounoe lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. At this point the laps of cut roving waste are mixed in in the pro- portion of one lap of cut roving to three laps of raw stock. The cut rov- ing is treated as before stated. THE FINISHER PICKER is equipped with either a rigid or what is called la pin beater. A great many mills are putting in this pin beater on stock up to 1 9-16-incli, claiming that the stock is more thoroughly cleaned. The speed of the pin beater (which has three arms) is higher than that of the rigid type, being 1,500 revolutions per minute, whereas a two-armed rigid type would be run about 1,450 revolutions per minute. The pin beat- er can be run at a greater speed be- cause it does not strike the cotton a blow but rather tears it apart. If a two-bladed, rigid type of beater is used, it should be speeded up so as to give about 42 beats to each inch of cotton passing through. The total weight of lap at the front should be about 38 pounds. Laps varying more than one-half a pound either side of this standard should be run over again. Observe the general points about the picker room that have been given before. , The laps are put up at the card. For this grade of goods THE DRAFT should not be less than 100. Use me- dium wire filled, i. e.. No. 120s, for cylinder and No. 130s for doffer and flats. Speed of licker-in, 320, flats one revolution every 45 minutes; use 26- inch or large diameter doffer. Strip three times a day and grind cards all over once a month. Groove setting points frequently and watch the dead roller grinding wheel to see that it is straight. The weight of the sliver at the front should be ahout 65 grains, the pro- duction being 700 pounds per week of 60 hours. The card sliver is put through three processes of drawing, the weight at the front being 70 grains per yard. WATOH THE CLEARERS to see that they are in proper condi- tion. Metallic rolls may be used on this class of work to great advantage. If leather top rolls are used, keep them up in good shape. The drawing sliver is run through the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. This is put through three processes of fly frames for the filling yam, the hank roving at each process being as fol- lows: 1st, 1.50; 2d, 3.50, and jack, 8.25 hank. We will consider that the filling yarn is taken to the ring spinning room, where it would be spun in 36s yarn on a frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches-; diameter of ring, 1% inohes; length of traverse, 5i/^ inches; speed of spindles, 8,900 revolutions per minute. After being treated to make it damp, the filling is taken to the weave room and woven as given above. The roving for the warp yarn ^ is put through two processes of fiy ■^ frames, the hank roving at the first .104 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. latfefmediate being 1.75 and at the .jack 5.50 hank. This yarn is spun in- to 2Ss yarn on a ring frame having the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% :inches; length of traverse, QV2 inches; ■siyeed of spindles, 9,700 revolutions per lliinute. The warp yarn is then tal^en to the spoolers; from here to the warpers, and the warps are put up at the slasher, the required number of ends being run upon a beam at the head end. Dyeing Particulars. LIGHT PINK. One-half pound Erika pink; 20 pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. SKY BLUE. One pound diamine sky blue F F; 20 pounds Gliauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. One per cent katigen blue black B; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glau- ber's; 1 per cent sodium sulphide. OLD GOLD. Two per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; Vs per cent diamine black B H; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SAGE GREEN. One-half per cent chloramine yel- low M; 116 per cent benzo fast orange, S; Vs per cent benzo fast blue B N; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent diamine brown B; V2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; li per cent diamine catechine 3 G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT GREEN. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 1 per cent diamine fastt yellow F F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal sodia. PEARL. Oie-quarter per cent immedial di- rect blue B; Vi per cent immedial black N G; % per cent sodium sul- phide; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. BLACK. Fifteen per cent immedial black N N; 15 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. Twelve per cent thiogene blue B; 22 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. Ten per cent thiogene brown G; 6 per cent sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent pyrogene green B; 12 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. ROSE. Mordant for 200 gallons water; 31/3 pounds tannic acid; run through, ou jig machine, for one hour. Pass through a clean bath of two pounds tartar emetic for 200 gallons water half hour; wash and dye. Two pounds rhodamine 5 G. ROYAL BLUE. Mordant as rose. Dye, l^/^ per cent "Victoria blue B. ROYAL PURPLE. Mordant as rose. Dye, %, per cent methyl violet R. TARLTON, Tarlton is a fine, open, transparent muslin, somewhat similar to an organ- die in the feel and finish, though a much coarser fabric. The cheaper grade of tarlton resembles a mosquito netting. Mosquito netting, however, is in a leno weave, while tarlton is but a plain woven fabric. The goods are piece dyed and may be seen m any color; some are finished in pure white or 4 ^ V - f 1 7 -^-^ ^ 7 — ± * ^ -l.—t ^ , J- Fig 1. Urawing-in Draft. (2 repeats.) bleached. The fabric is used for va- rious purposes, the finer qualities for women's wear. The fabric is princi- pally used for draping and decoralting purposes, for foundations for ladies' hats, for bunting around bird cages, for a twofold purpose — first to prevent the birdseed from being scattered to the floor, and second, as a decorative feature. Briefly we may say that the fabric is intended chiefly for drap- i"g and decorating purposes, especial- ly the cheaper grades, the meshes of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSiSARY. 165 which, are so open that hardly any lady would care to wear a dress made of it, unless she were lanxious to exhib- it the garments which she would be ob- liged to wear under it. The grade of tarlton under consideration, of which an analysis will follow, is entirely too flimsy for a dress fabric. If the goods are taken between the thumb and forefinger with any degree of firmness and the surface of the fabric is drawn between them, the threads w;ill readily ■■nn Fig. 2. give, or leave their original place. This would certainly be a poor feature in a fabric intended for dress goods. The fabric is woven in com/paratively wide widths; the coarser qualities are com- monly 58 inches in reed, including selvedge. The selvedge is about % of an inch, two ends in one heddle, while the body of goods is drawn one end in one heddle, and each end into a sep- arate dent in the reed. harnesses, in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 4, the chain being built accordingly so as to give a plain weave. The warp is sized before it is put on the warp beam. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 58 inches. Finished width, 52i^ inches; ends por inch finished, 20; picks per inch finish- ed, IS. Reed, 650x1. Ends in warp, 1,010; SO ends sel- vedge, two ends in one heddle; total, 1,090 ends. The take-up during the weaving is very little; the take-up in the finished goods, about 1 per cent. After the fabric is finished the threads lie prac- tically straight; this is due to the openness of the jnesh. This readily il- lustrates that the closer the weave, the more take-up of warp yarn. Warp yarn, l-50s cotton. Filling, l-SOs cotton. Finished weight, 10 yards equal 7 ounces. The finished fabric carries about 12 per cent of siz- ing. FINISHING. After the fabric is taken from the loom, it is sent to the dj/ehouse. The T'AROLTON. The goods in weaving have a tend- encj' to roll up, that is, the selvedges i-oll toward the middle of the fabric; this is overcome by holding out the selvedges by means of the temple. The temple also prevents the chafing of the warp during weaving. LOOM REQUIRED. Any light-built loom with a compar- atively high running sipeed will answer for weaving tarltons, providing it is wide enough in the reed space. The warp is usually drawn in on four first process is to boil it off, in order to rid it of all foreign matter i)ossible; then it is dyed or bleached as required. After this process and ;i±"ter the fabric is dried, it is then immersed in size. Sizing the fabric is usuailly done in front of the drying cylinders. The goods pass from the size trough on to the drying cylinder, which practically com- pletes the finishing process. The goods are then doubled and put on to boards in the form of rolls, after which they are ready for the market. 166 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The machinery required to make the counts of yarn of which tairlton is made will be found in the secoind di- vision of mills, as givea in a previous article. The counts used for this class of goods diifer slightly, but for this article we will consider the counts to be l-50s for the warp yani and 1-SOs for the fijling yarn. These yarns are made of American cotton of about 1%- inoh staple. This cotton is first mixed by hand, as large a quantity being mixed .-it one time as possible. In fact, two large mixings should be made so that one batch may be drying out while the other is being used. At this point the good sliver from all the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in, it being collected at regular intervals from the machines. An eye should be kept on this WASTE by the one in charge to see that too much waste is not being made at any one machine and also to see that it i.s broken up into short lengths before be- ing put into the mixings. Long lengths of sliver v/aste are apt to wind around the various rotating parts of the open- er and cause a "bung up," which re- quires time to remove and also is apt to cause a fire. If trunking is used tO' connect the opener to the breaker picker, be sure that no scraps of iron or other m.etal are around where they can work into the cotton, as this is also- apt to cause a fire by 'Coming in contact with the metallic parts of the machine and striking a spark.which ignites the oth- er cotton very quickly and often causes a fire on account of the currents of air which fan it into a flame. Keep the hopper full of cotton for reasons pre- viously given. The SPEED OF THE BEATER (two-bladed rigid type) of the opener is 1,500 revolutions per minute; the total weight. of lap at the front is 40 pounds. These are doubled four times at the intermediate piicker. The beater of this machine may be either of a rigid type or a pin beater. If of a rigid type it makes 1,400 revolutions per minute; if a pin beater, 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of lap at the front of this machine is 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are* put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. At this machine the cut-roving waste is mixed in with the raw stock in the proportion of one lap of cut waste to three laps of raAV stock. The cut-roving is first put through a process to take out the twist and then run through a picker to form it into a lap. The beater of this machine may be either a rigid or a pin type. If the former, its speed should be 1,450 revolutions per minute; if the latter, 1,500 revolutions per minute. The T0T.4L AVEIGHT OF LAP at the front of this machine should be 38 pounds or a 14% -ounce lap. At this jnachine all laps are weighed, and if they vary one-half pound from the standard weight they should be put up at the back and run over again. Al- ways keei> a supply of laps ahead in case of breakdowns, etc. The laps are then put up at the cards. The speed of the licker-in should be about 325 revolutions per minute; flats should make one complete revolution every 55 minutes. The card clothing should be 110s for cylinder and 126s for doifer and flats. Use a large doffer (either 26 or 27 inch diameter). Strip cards three times a day and see that they are ground all over once a month a whole day (twice a month grinding half a day is better). ALWAYS GRIND LIGHTLY. The card clothing s^hould be looked af- ter at intervals to see that it is not faced or hooked. Before grinding, all jams should be taken and flats should be kept free from cotton embedded in the wire fillet. 'After grinding, the parts should be set in proper rela.- tion to each other. The sliver at the front for the class of goods under de- scription should weigh 65 grains per yard and the production should be about 700 pounds per week of 60 hours. The cotton should be run through three processes of drawing frames. It will be found A GREAT ADVANTAGE to run metallic top rolls for this grade of goods. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be about 65 grains, the doublings at each process of drawing being 6 into 1. The hank roving at the slubber should be about .55. The slubber rovihg for both the warp and filling roving should be put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving being as follows: for warp, first, 1.5i> hank; second, S.&O hank; jack, 10 hank; for filling yarn, first, 1.50; second, 4 hank; jack, 16 hank. The roving for warp yam should be taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 50s count on a frame having the following ))articulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, V/z inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; revolutions per minute of spindle, 10,- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 167 000. The yaTn is then spooled and warped and several warps put up at the slaslier and the required number of ends run on to a beam at the front. The filling yarn is spun into 80s on a fran;e having the following particu- lars: Gauge of frame, 2?4incheis; di- ameter of ring, 11/4 inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,400. Dyeing Particulars. Tarltons are dyed on the jig ma- chine, or the color is boiled up in the starchdn-g process with the starch.. The dyed colors, being faster, are mostly used. The following color is an ex- ample of a starched dyeing: ORANGE. One gallon of water; 6 ounces dex- trine; 2 ounces tetrazo orange C R. Mix cold. Boil for 30 minutes. Pass the pieces through a starch mangle, and dry on tenter frame. All one-dip colors can be dyed after this form.ula and any shade produced by varying the am.ount of color. RED. Three per cent tetrazo red B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PINK. Four ounces benzo fast pink 2 B L; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. LEMON YELLOW. One-half per cent chrysophenine; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda, GREEN. Three per -cent brilliant benzo green B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. Two per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. Two per cent diamine scarlet B; ;J5 per cent Glauber'?; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent diamine oateohine G; I'o per cent diamine brown B; 20 per oeut Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- da. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine blue R W; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. BLACK. Five per cent diamine jet black O O; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. MAUVE. One-half per cent diamine violet N; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. GRAY. One per cent diamine gray G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. ROSE. One-half per cent diamine rose B D; 15 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal spda. The pieces are starched and dried on a tenter frame. BROCATELLE, Brocatelie is a coairse brooaded or figured fabricof cotton and wool or silk and linen or cotton, used for tapestry and upholstery and sometimes used for dveisses. The brocatelle used for dresses is much .finer and necessarily lighter in weight than the fabinic used for upholstery purposes. We will here consider the fabrics used for upholstery purposes only. This may be classed as a double cloth fabric, with t'v^'o warips and two fill- ings, a face warp and weft amd a back wiarp and weft. Theses vrarps amd fill- ings, however, Interweajve with one an- other, thereby binding together the two sets of warp and filling threads, with this peculiariity, that the face warp threads do not show on the ba.ck of the fabric nor does the back filling show on the faice of the fabric, while.on the contrary, the face filling shows on the back and the back warp threads show on the face. The face warp threads give boidy to and also form the ornomentail fea- ture of the fabric, which is the naised or brocaded figure in the cloth. These threads, when not forming the figure, lie buried between the face and back filling picks. The figure thus formed is usually of an eight harness sateen v.'-eave, the ends floating over seven back filling picks and under one. while the back filling is used princi- pally to give weight to the fabric and accentuate the raised figure. Brocatelle, as already menlCioned, is made with silk and wool, linen or cot- ton; the face is of silk, while the bajck has wool, linen or cotton, depending on the quality of fabric desired.as does IGS A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. also the quialiity of silk used in the fab- ric. The yams in all inistanoes are DYED BEFORE WEAVING. The colors and number used depend upon the prevailing fashion. Some broeatelles are made up of soveirai col- ors on the face of the goods, wliile again others have but two — ithe figure amd ground colors. The figure color is usually darker than tlie ground. For example, a dark olive may be used for figure color, that is, the face warp threaid'S, while the ground color, face fill ins; piciis, may be a light salmon. The l)aclf warp is usually the same aa the fac:e filling, while the back filling usually blends off to a lig'Mer shade Dressiing, 4 ends olive 50-2 silk; 1 end salmon 2-llOs cotton; total, S ends per warp pattern. 190 ends i)er inch in reed; reeded S ends 50-2 silk and 2 ends 2-llOs cotton in one dent; 19x10 dent read. Ends per inch finished 200;. fin- ished width of fabric, 49.4 inches. Pilling: 116 picks per inoh; 58, 21s silk salmon; 58, 28s linen light olive; total 116. Linen 300 yards per pound; 10s cot- ton. Filling aarangement: 1 pick 21s silk face; 1 pick 28s linen back; to^tal, 2 picks, repeat. Weiigtht per \-ard of fimisihed fabric^ 14,83 ounces. Fig. 1. of olive. The object is to hjave the colors blend well together and at the same time form a hiarmoinious oonti^ast. The ornamental feature of broca- telles is elaborate conventionalized floral figures which cover the greater portion of the surface of the fabric, about 75 per cent. The figures are bold and rich, repeating about 41/^ times across the width of the fabric. Fig. 1 gives an idea of the character of de- sign used. This is about one-half the s'ize it would be in the fabric. THE CONSTRUCTION is as follows: 7,904 ends 50-2 silk face warp. 1,970 ends 2-1 10s cotton back warp. 16 ends 4-20s white cotton selvedge. 9,896 ends in warp. Weig'ht of various yarns used: G.04 Oiunces face warp. 2.60 ounces face filling. .70 ounce back warp. 5.46 oiunces back filling. .03 ounce selvedge. 14.83 ounces. LOOM REQUIRED. Brocatelle requires a heavy jacquai-d loom. A Cromptun & Knowles com- bined broad loom, slow speed, would be a good one. The patterns require from 400 to 1,200 ends and over, in order to repeat. Consequently, a ma- chine that can operate the required nuraher of endis is essential for the production of these fabrics. "When a greait number of ends are required for the repeat of the pattern, two ma- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 1C9 chines are combined; for example, 2-noo maohinies wiill oiperate a 1,200 end pat- teirn, but uisiu.ally a French or fine in- dex mac'hinie iis used that will operate the required number of ends. The pattern to be AVoven is first stamped on cards bj' means of a card cutting machine. This machine con- sists of a painoh box, conitaining 13 pundhes; If a 600 machine, 25; if a 1,- 200 machime, 24 for cutting the small- er holes and one for the peg holes. Theise ■caT'ds, -when placed on the jac- quard .machine over tihe loom, bear a direct relation to the warp threads, raisiing and dropping them according to the patteTn. The warp threads In the drawing in aire kept tepiarate froan each Oither; thait is, the face warp threads are drawn throug'h certain jniails as likewise are the back warp threads, although both sets of threads are represented on the one card. FINISHING. These fabrics reiquire no finishing. They are smoothed and folded and then are ready for the 'jpholsiterer. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills which make the cotton yarns for brocatelle wili be found in the second and sometimes the first di- vision of mills, as given in a previous lesson. Brocatelle is a fabric made up in many different fibres, but the fabric under ilescription is composed of silk and cotton, the back warp and sel- vedge being composed of cotton yarns. It is these yams that we will deiscribe. The cotton back warp yarns are 2-J.lOs cotton yarns. while theselvedge is com- posed of ')-20s cotton yarns. The cot- ton used for the back warp of this count would be of a good American cotton of about 1 9-1 G inch staple. This yarn should be put through a bale breaker and carried to the bins by means of a blower and trunking. This will insure the cotton at this point'be- ing dry, and in a more "picked out"' state than when hand mixing is done. The cotton is mixed at the bale breaker in the usual mauner.each bale being tjrst stapled to make sure that the cotton is all up to standard. COTTON MUST BE DRY. If the mixing is done by hand it sliould be allowed to stand as lon.g as possible before using, so that it will be thoroughly dry. Too much care fjannot be taken at this point as all carders know what trouble damp cotton makes. The good sliver wa.ste from the ma- chines up to the slubber is mixed in at this point, care being taken to see that only the cotton of the same grade and length of sitaple is thrown into the bin. This waste should not be put all In one place, but should be distributed all over the top and front or back of tt»e mixing. The cotton is next run through an opener and THREE PROCESSES OF PICKING. At the opener the hopper should be kept well filled so as to^ feed the break- er picker an even sheet. The breaker piclier beiater is generally of the rigid type, either two or three blades being used. If two bliarieis are used, the speed should be about 1,500 revolutions jiG pounds or a 13-ounc'e lap. These are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. Tlie speed of thi.s beatrr, two- bladed rigid type. Is 1,400 revolntions per minute. The total weight of the lap is 35 pounds or a 1214-ounce lap. The cotton at this picker receives 42 beats per minute. The laps are put up at the card. The licker-in srjeed should be about "50 revolutions per minute. The top flats riiake one com- plete revolution in 40 niinutes. The cards should be ground and set once a month, stripped three timos a day and cleaned and oiled twice a day; keep the front of the cards always clean Irom flJ^ etc. Collect flat strips at regular intervals, not too long apart, so that they will fall over the doffer and not get into the good work. The sliver «t the front should weigh GO grains per yard, and the production should be 550 pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is put through THREE PROCESSES OF DRAWING. The ton rolls us^d may be eiither me- tallic or leather top rolls. These sh^ould he looked out for at all times, but especially so in hot wea.rher to seie that they are in perfect condition. Kee^p 170 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. sweaty .hands off of the varnish on the rolls. Varnish rolls frequently. A small piece of borax In the mixture ■vvill help hardjen the varnish. The weight £)f the sliA'er at the finisher drawing is 60 grains peir yard. \'Vhea the weight is kept ait the drawings, they should be sized at least three times a day. This is tlieu put through the sluhber and made into .55 hank. The roving- is then put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each process being as follows: First. 2.25; second^ 6.50, and jack. IS.bO. The roving is next spun into 110s on a frame having the following particu- laxs: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of spindle, 9,400 revolutions per minute. This is then spooled, and twisted into 2-ply yam and then run on a warper and through a slasher. COTTON USED FOR SELVEDGE. The cotton to make the selvedge yarn is 1^,4-inch staple. At the pickers the changes from the above are as fol- lows: Speed of beater, breaker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; initermediate, 1,450 revolutions per minute and fin- isher, 1,450 revolutions per minute. The weights of the laps are as fol- lows: Breaker, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap; intermediate, 37 pounds or a 12- ounce lap; finishe)',35 pounds or a 12%- ounce lap. At the cards note the fol- lowing changes from the back warp yarn: Speed of top flats. 1 revolution every 50 minutes; weight of sliver, 65 grains, pei- yard; production per week of 60 hours. 750 pounds. Draft of card should not be over 100. At the finisher drawing the weight of sliver at the finisher is 70 grains per yard. It is AN ADVANTAGE to use metallic top rolls on this stock at the drawing frame. Slubber roving should be .55 hank. There should be two processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 1.75 hank; second, 5 hank. The moving is then taken to the spinning room and spun inJto 20s j'-am on a frame, the particulars of which have been given before. The yarn Is then spooled and twisted into 4-ply 20s. ber's salt and 3 per cent sulphuric acid. For 100 poimds wool yarn: LIGHT SLATE. Four ounces patent blue B; % ounce oranige I I. OLIVE BROWN. One per cent orange II; % ounce laniafuchsiinie S B; 4 ounces fast y«llow S; 1 ounce indigo blue N. LIGHT BROWN. Two per cent orange 1 1, 1% per cent fast yellow extra; 4 ounces azo crim- son L; 6 ounces fast green B. OLIVE GREEN. One and three-ciuarters per cent in- digo blue N; 1 per cent troipaeo'line O O. GREEN. Two and one-half per cent Indigo blue N; V2 per oent fast yellow S; 1% tropjaeoline O O. BLACK. Five per cent palatine black 4 B. VIOLET. Two per cent acid violet 4 B N. SCARLET. Two per cent palajtinie scarlet 4 R. SA.LMON. One and one-half ounceis rtoda- raine 5 G; 20 grains eosine yellowish. ROSE. Five per cent rhodamine G. LAVENDER. One ounce adid violet 4 B N; 30 grains orange I I: 100 gTaiins fast acid violet 10 B. Dyeing Particulars. The colors are dyed on the silk, wool, or cotton, in the yam. The colore used depend on the prevailing fashion. The following wool colors are dyed in the acid bath of 20 per cent Glau- SILK COLORS. Silk yarn is dyed in the soap bath with the addition of acetic aoid. SALMON. One ounce rhodamine 5 G. LIGHT liAVENDER. One-quarter acid violet 4 B N; 100 grains rhodamine G. OLIVE GREEN. One per cent fast green B; 1 per cent fast yellow Ex.; 4 ounces onange I I. ROSE. One per cent rhodamine 5 G. NAVY BLUE. Tv/o per cent indigo blue N; 4 ounces acid violet 2 B N. RED. One per cent fast red R. LIGHT GREEN. One per cent acid Victoiia green S N. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 171 LIGHT YELLOW. T\)ur ounces tartarzine S. COTTON COLORS. BLUE. Four pei- cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B: 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 pier cent Bai soda. LIGHT BROV/N. Two per cent diaanine brown E: 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sial soda. OLIVE BROWN. Three per cent cMoriamine yellow M; y2. per cent benzo dark green B; % per cent benzo brown B. TAN. One-half per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent chrysopheiiinie; 2 ounces benzo fast black. GREEN. Eight per cent immedial green G G; S per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent f^oda ash; 30 per cewt Glaubeir's salt. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial indone 3 B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. OLIVE. Five per cent pyrogene olive G; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash: 20 per cent Glauber's salt. RED. Five per cent benzo irasit red 4 B S; 80 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. TERRY PILE FABRICS, Terry is a fabric in which the dis- tinguishing effect is small loops of warp yarn, uncut pile, projecting from one or both sides of the cloth, these loops being tied to the ground cloth in regular or irregular order as desired. The terry principle of construction, which has been developed with the pow- er loom, is used extensively in the manufacture of cotton terry toweling, known generally as Turkish toweliag. These towels are made in various sizes and grades from the cheap fab- rics made almost entirely from waste yarns to those made of the best qual- ity of cotton obtainable. Terry pile is the simplest of the man J' types of warp pile goods, the ef- fect being obtained without the use of wires. Two warps are required: (a) the ground warp; (b) the pile warp. The ground warp contains the sel- vedge and ground ends, and is wound on the regular loom beam. This beam is heavily weiighted in the loo^m. The ■pile warp is usually wound on a light beam and is allowed to let off the warp very easily. The reason for the difference in ten- sion on the warps is to allow the ground warp to remain tight and the Fto- s. pile warp to go forward easily when it is required to loop. Figs. 1, 2 and 3 will serve to illus- trate the relation of a terry design to the cloth. Circles iRdicate picks; dotted lines, ground ends; continuous lines, pile ends. The numbered ends in each figure correspond. Assuming F tO' represent the fell of the cloth, and the last pick of a re- peat, Fig. 2 shows how the three .suc- ceeding picks A, B and C would appear when about to be driven to the fell of the cloth, and Fig. 3 a section of the cloth with the loop completed. Figs. 4, 5 and 6 illustrate a design and sectional view of a terry cloth in which the pile is distributed on one side of the cloth only. Cloth of this type is used for furniture coverings and as a ground for embroidered ef- fects. Figured terry goods are made by combining colored yarns and terry 172 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. effects, the terry being thrown on eith- er side when the other is weaving a ground weave. The face and back are reversible. LOOM REQUIRED. In order to weave terry toweling a dobby loom differing from the ordi- nary loom is required. The principal point of difference is in its having mechanism to allow two (ia three-pick terry) out of three picks to be beat- en up to within a certain distance of the fell of the cloth, this distance de- pending upon the length of pile de- sired, then forcing these two picks, along with every third pick, to the fell of the cloth. The object of this is to allow the first two picks to fasten themselves into the pile ends, say one-half inch from the cloth, so that when the three picks are driven home together the pile ends will gO' along with them,mak- ing a, loop slightly less than % inch. At the same time the three picks will slide over the ground ends, these in- terlacing with the filling as in an or- dinary cloth. To accomplish the three-pick move- ment to form the loop one of two methods is adopted: (a) By a rocking or oscillating reed which is held back or forced to the fell of the cloth as de- sired; (b) by a rocking whip roll and back roll terry motion. With this de- vice the reed is held firm, the cloth be- ing moved back toward the rear of the loom every third pick. A backward and forward moveiment, similar to that of the cloth, is imparted to the temples. The length of pile can be varied as de- sired, or the weave can. be changed from terry to regular, or from regular to terry as required. A loom for weaving terry towels, be- sides having mechanism for making the pile, contains mechanism for one or more of the following: (a) A box motion, for inserting different colors or kinds of filling; (b) a fringe motion, for making fringe at the end of each towel; (c) a motion for changing the weave from terry to regular construc- tion or vice versa at the beginning and end of each towel. This is usually ac- complished with a multiplier or re- peater, or with a measuring device which automatically brings into play the pattern chain requiviMi. Terry looms are usually heavily built and contain stands for at least two- warp beams. FINISHING. Some toweling is sold in the gray, but most of it is bleached. First proc- ess: Boiled with 4 percentcaustic soda, boil for 12 hours, riused through. water; teco-id, again boiled with \ per cent caustic soda, boil for 10 hours; third, passed through acid bath, % degree Tw. sulphuric acid, rinsed with, water; fourth, passed through chlorine water at ^2 degree Tw. aad laid down in bin until white, ; fifth, passed through acid bath of i^ degree Tw. sulphuric acid and rinsed well with water, dried and cut up into towels. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which terry cloth are made vary from those made of waste stock to those made of long staple combed stock and it would be hard to describe one particular grade to make it cover all terry cloth. For this article we will suppose the average count of the yarn is l-45s and will give the carding and spin- ning particulars for this count of yarn in both warp and filling yarns. We will also consider that the stock is carded. THE MACHINERY USED would be found in the equipment found in the second division of mills, as giv- en in a previous article. The cotton would be brought from the cotton shed and sampled by the one in charge of this job; sometimes it is the overseer, sometimes the "super," and sometimes, in large mills, a cot- ton sampler is employed. All bales containing cotton not up to grade or length of staple should be placed at one side and not put into the mixing. The mixing should be as large as pos- sible and may be done either by hand or, as is more generally the, custom, by a bale breaker. One bale breaker is able to take care of a great many bales of cotton per week. The cotton is fed to the bale breaker from several bales of cotton, a little being taken from each. This is so that the cotton from all the bales will be intermixed, and in this manner a more even yarn is apt to result. After passing the bale breaker the cotton is conveyed to the mixing bins by an arrangement of endless lattices, which may be moved when it is desired to drop the cotton into another bin. THE MIXING should be allowed to stand as long as possible, especially if the mixing is done by hand. The cotton is then put through a bale breaker and three processes of picking. The hopper of the opener or feeder should always be kept more than half full so that the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 17a spiked lifting apron will always be carrying a load to the pin beater. In this manner an even amount of cotton is fed to the feed rolls of the break- er picker. The breaker picker is pro- vided with either a two or three armed rigid type of beater. If two bladed, the speed should not exceed 1,500 rev- olutions per minute for this grade and staple of cotton (1%-inch peeler). The total weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may be provided either with a rigid or pin type of beater. They both have a great many favorites among the trade. The speed of a rigid two-bladed type should be about 1,450 revolutions per minute. THE FAN SPEED should be about 1,050 revolutions per minute. If a pin beater is used, the speed of the fan may be reduced. This is on account of the amount of draft that this beater creates itself. The total weight of the lap at the head end of this machine is 37 pounds or a 12- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. What has been said of the beater at the intermediate picker ap- plies here, except that the speed of a two-bladed rigid type should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through it about 42 beats or blows per inch. The cut rov- ing is brought to the picker room and put through a special picker (to take out the twist) and then is run through a breaker picker to form it into a lap, and these laps are mixed with the raw stock at the finisher picker in the pro- portion of three laps raw stock to one lap cut waste. The total WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of the finisher picker should be about 35 pounds or a 121/^- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card; the draft of which should not exceed 110. The card clothing used should be for carding medium counts. This should be ground at least once a month all over, after which the card should be reset. Use gauges that are straight and not bent all out of shape. The cards should be stripped three times a day and kept clean. The speed of the licker-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute and the flats should make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard, with a production of 700 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Use as large a doffer as possible. This sliver is put up at the drawing frame and doubled 6 into 1. The sliver should be run through , THREE PROCESSES OP DRAWING. Either metallic or leather-covered to]^ rolls may be used to good advantage. Whichever top roll is used, it should be kept in the best of shape. The weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should be about 70 grains per yard. This is put up at the slubber and made into .55 hank roving. This is put through three processes of fly frames and made into 9 hank, the hank roving at each proc- ess being as follows: 1st, 1.25 hank; 2d, 3.50 hank, and fine, 9 hank. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and made into 45s warp yarn on a frame with the following particuiai's: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, iy2 inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; speed of spindles, 10,000 rev- olutions per minute; twist per inch, 30.19. This is then spooled and warped and the required number of warps put up at the slasher to give the required number of ends at the front warp. For making 45s filling yarn use a frame having the following par- ticulars: Diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5V2 inches; twist per inch, 25; speed of spindles, 8,500 revolutions per minute. SATINE, or SATEEN. Satine, or sateen, is a cotton fabric with a smooth, lustrous surface resem- bling satin. The latter -is made of silk. The weaves for satins and sat- ines are similar. Satines, which are of two kinds, warp satines and filling satines, are made in a great variety of weights and qualities, and are used for many pur- poses. The bulk of the goods are made on the filling satin principle and are used for linings, corset covers, dress goods, etc. These are usually woven white and are bleached, or piece dyed in varying colors. Warp satines are used for mattress and fiirniture coverings. Stripe effects are made by using a warp containing different colors and a warp satine weave. Warp and rilling: satines are also printed, to a consid- erable extent, the smooth face lend- 174 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ing itself very readily to this process. COLORED EFFECTS made in the loom are confined to stripes made when a warp satine weave is used, because the warp cov- ers the filling almost entirely. In a filling satine the filling practically cov- ers all the warp, and color inserted here would show in harry effect across the cloth. The smooth, lustrous effect of sat- ines is due in large measure to- the weave used. Briefly stated, satine weaves are made on from five ends up- wards; they are complete on the same number of ends as picks; each end and each pick interlaces only twice in each repeat; the interlacings do not support each other, at least one end or one pick separating them. In filling satines each end is raised over one pick only in each repeat; warp satines. vice versa. Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the only two filling satine weaves that caa be made on five ends. Both of these weaves are ODDBa DBDan aaaam namaa ■uaoo DDBDO DDDDB DBDaa aaama ■ GDDD ■DBaBBB ■■■■a used in the trade, some buyers prefer- ring one to the other, according to the effect desired. Figs. 3 and 4 show warp satine weaves on seven ends each. The constructions of filling satine fabrics vary from about 64 to over 100 sley and 120 to 300 or more picks. The following, which show results of the analyses of five different satine fabrics, will serve tO' show that the satine principle of construction is used in fabrics of widely differing qualities. Sample No. 1. Colored warp satine stripe cloth for upholstery; 96 ends and 52 picks per inch; 7s cotton yam for warp and 14s for filling. Woven with weave Fig. 5, a 5-end warp satine weave. The filling in this particular sam- ple is twisted harder than the warp. Sample No. 2. A fine warp satine of good quality, made with a 7-end weave; 152 sley and 80 picks; 2-50s warp and SOs filling. Samples 1 and 2, as well as almost all warp satines,on account of the large proportion of warp on the face, would be woven face down in the loom. Sample No. 3. A filling satine of fair quality; 72 sley and 150 picks; 45s warp and 70s filling. Weave Fig. 1. Sample No. 4. 96 sley and 280 picks; 45s warp and 97s filling. Weave Fig. 1. Sample No. 5. 104 sley and 210 picks; 60s warp and 75s filling. WeaiVe Fig. 1. Samples 4 and 5 are of good quality. KIND OF LOOM REQUIRED. Satines, whether warp or filling, are usually woven on single box cam looms of heavier build than plain sheeting looms. The selvedges are actuated by a selvedge motion. If woven on dob- by looms, the selvedge motion is dis- pensed with. One warp only is required. The ends are drawn through the harness:es in straight order. In practice it has been found ad- visable, when weaving heavily picked satines, to use a reed that is no deep- er than is necessary. For warp satine, on account of the large number of ends and comparatively few picks per inch, deeper reeds are used, so that the wires will give, to some extent, for knots. FINISHING SATINES. Satine tickings are sheared and then, calendered with hot steam rollers, the steaming being done in front of the machines; the appearance is improved by gas singeing. A method of finish- ing ordinary satines is to first saturate them with a mixture of corn or potato starch, China clay or baryta and tal- low. To this is added soap or oleine, with wax and glue size. They are then mangled, dried, damped, calendered, folded and pressed. For printed or dyed satines, starch with a small portion of soda crystals for a stiff finish, and soluble oil with soda for a soft finish are used. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Satines are made up of various counts of yarns, the different samples analyzed being only a few of the va- rious grades made, but they illustrate the various grades very well. For the carding and spinning particulars of a satine,sample No. 5 will be taken as an example. This is made up of combed yarns of 60s for warp and 75s for fill- ing. The cotton used would be Egyp- tian of 1%-inch staple. This grade of satine is made in either the second or third division of mills as give'n in a previous lesson. Of course THE EQUIPMENT will have to include combers. The cot^ ton is first sampled and then mixed in a manner that has been described in previous lessons. It is better to use a bale breaker, but cotton may be mixed by hand. If mixed by hand, let the mixing stand a little longer to dry and open out as the cotton is com- pressed very tightly in the bales. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 175 These bales weigh considerably more than the American bales. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber should be mixed in at the mixing bin. The cotton is next put through an opener and three proc- esses of picking. The hopper of the opener should always be kept OVER HALF FULL, so that an even amount of cotton will be fed to the breaker picker. The breaker picker is provided with either a two or three bladed beater of a rigid type. If the former, the speed should be about 1,350 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds or a 16-ouncie lap. These laps are put up at the interme- diate picker and doubled 4 into 1. 'ixie beater of this picker is either a two or three bladed rigid or a pin beater. If the former, the speed of it should be 1,250 revolutions per minute. If a pin beater is used, the fan speed should be reduced for reasons given in a pre- vious article. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 36 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. At this picker the cut roving waste, which has previously been put through a roving picker, to take out the twist, and a breaker, to form the fluffy mass into a lap, is mixed in in THE PROPORTION of three laps of raw stock to one lap of cut roving waste. If the equipment of machinery does not include a roving picker, the cut roving is mixed in at the mixing bin, care being taken to spread it over the entire mixing. The speed of the finisher picker beater of a rigid two-bladed type is 1,200 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card. The wire fillet used should be 120s for cylinder and 130s for dofCer and flats. Use a 26 or 27 inch diameter doffer. The speed of the cyl- inder should be 160 revolutions per minute; Mcker-in, 300 revolutions per minute. Top flats should make one complete revolution in 35 minutes. The draft of the card on this stock should not be less than 125. THE CARDS should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month, at which time the various settings should be gone over. Set doffer to cylinder with a 5 gauge. The sliver at the front weighs 55 grains per yard and the productio-n is about 475 pounds per week of 60 hours. This sliver is taken to the sliver lap machine and doubled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap (wide) or 20 into 1 for a 10 ^^ -inch lap. These laps are generally put through a ribbon lap machine, the weight of them being 330 grains per yard for an 8%-inch lap or 380 grains for a lO^^-inch lap. The laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap, the weight at the front being 265 for an 8%-inch lap iand320 grains for a 10^-inch lap. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according to whether the comber is a six or eight head comber. THE EIGHT-HEAD COMBER is the one that is being put in nowa- daj^s, very few of the six-head being sold. The speed of the comber should be at least 90 nips per minute, and may run up as high as 305. The per- centage taken out should be about 20. The weight of the sliver at the front is 40 grains per yard. The combed sliver is next put through two processes of drawing, the speed of the front roll being 400 revolutions per minute. Either metallic or leather-covered top rolls may be used, generally the latter. These should be varnished frequently and those that are damaged, fluted, loose or not true should not be run. If the latter, they may be buffed, as may also the leather rolls at the comber. See that the stop motions are all in working order, and that the traverse motion is set and working so that the whole surface of the leather rolls is used. THE SETTING or spread of the rolls for this stock should be 1% inches front roll to sec- ond; iy2 inches second roll to third, and 1% or 1% inches third to back roll according to bulk of cotton being fed. The doublings at the drawing frames are 6 into 1. The weiglit of the sliver at the front is 60 grains per yard. This sliver is put through the slubber and made into .70 hank roving, after which it is put through three processes of fly frames and made into the follow- ing hank roving at each frame: First intermediate,!. 75; second intermediate, 4.50; and fine, 15: at the fine frame the lays per inch on the bobbin being 48. The standard for twist for this kind of cotton is 1.2 multiplied by the square root of the count. For ex- ample, the count or hank is 15. The square root of 15 is 3.87, which, mul- tiplied by 12, equals 4.64. If the stand- ard for twist on this frame was 94.9, the twist gear used would be 20. The method by which this is found is by dividing the constant v'or twist by the standard for twist (American frames). Look out for the leather top rolls, traverse and clearers to see that each 176 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. is performing its duty properly. Of course the SPEED OP THE ROLLS is very important, the general method being to gain 1-16 of an inch over stock ajt each roll. The production should be about 33 hank per spindle per week of 60 hours. The 15-hank roving is taken to the ring spinning room and made into 60swarp yarn on a frame having a gauge of 2% inches; ring diameter of 1% inches, and length of traverse, 6 inches; with spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then put through a spooler and warper and then a slasher. The filling yarn is made from the IS-hank roving on a frame having a li/4-inch diameter ring, 5-inch traverse and spindle speed of 7,400 revolutions per min- ute. The roving for the filling yarn may be taken to the mule room, but for this class of goods is generally taken to the ring frame spinning room. Dyeing and Finishing Particulars. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. One per cent tetrazo chlorine lilac B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent tetrazo blue Rx; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. GRAY. One-half per cent thio gray B; 10 per ceat Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. One-half per cent direct black S; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PEACOCK BLUE. Two per cent Eboli blue B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. RED. Three per cent direct red B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. Two per cent katigen black S W; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent soda ash. ROYAL BLUE. Three per cent brilliant benzo blue 6 B; ^i, per cent benzo fast violet R; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. TAN BROWN. Three per cent benzo fast orange S; 2 per cent chrysophenine ; % per cent benzo fast black; 30 per cent Gls-i- ber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One and three-quarters per ceit dia- mine sky blue F F; 25 per cent Glau- ber's; 2 per cent sal soda, BROWN. Three per cent diamine brown B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. WINE. Three per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SCARLET. Two and one-half per cent diamine scarlet B; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. Satines are finished by passing through a calender machine to give a fine lustre finish and are sometimes placed on a beetle machine and beetled for two hours. They are starched first with a very light starch, and a lit- tle white soluble softening, to give a soft, smooth feel. MUSLIN-BUTCHER'S MUSLIN. Muslin is commercially understood to mean a soft cotton fabric, used for various purposes, but principally for dress goods, underwear, sheetings, etc. Some muslins are named from their place of production, as Asoreem, Dac- ca, India, Madras and Swiss muslin, while some are named from the use to w^hich they are chiefly put, as butcher's muslin, which derives its name from the fact that it is chiefly used by grocery men and butchers in the form of aprons and coverings. It is a strong bleached fabric, well suited for the purposes. Muslin is so called from Mosul, a city on the banks of the Tigris, where was once the chief seat of its manufacture, but to-day large quantities are manufactured in the United States. The quality of muslin is as varied as are the names by which it is known. Butcher's muslin is but a substitute for butcher's linen. Cotton is cheaper and almost as durable, ana because of this it has forced itself to the front. Butch- er's muslin is " easily distinguished from the others by its coarseness. However, considerable quantities are used for summer outing dresses, for which purposes the bleached fabric only is used. The unbleached is used principally for sheetings and some- times for pillow-cases. The un- bleached fabric is preferred where du- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 177 rability is the chief object. It is a ■common fact that unbleached fabrics will wear better than bleached. Muslin is used only in the bleached or unbleached state. The fabric is not dyed. As previously mentioned, there are various kinds of muslin; in fact, any- thing in the line of soft cotton fabrics may be termed muslin. The name by which a particular kind is commonly known may vary likewise in quality, as, for example, there are several qualities of butcher's muslin, as an analysis would prove. Analysis of a fair grade of butcher's muslin, which retails at 15 cents per yard: Width in reed, 37^^ inches; fin- ished width, 36 inches; ends in warp, 1,900: 1.844 in body: 28 ends each side equal .56, selvedge; total, 1,900; 900 X 2 reed; 52 ends per inch fin- ished; warp, l-12s cotton; take-up during weaving, 8 per cent; filling, 40 picks per inch in loom: 42 picks per inch finished; l-15s cotton; weight per yard in the gray, 5 ounces. LOOM REQUIRED. Muslin is a plain woven fabric; con- sequently any loom may be used in the weaving of these goods. The cost of production is of course reduced in proportion to the speed of the loom and the number of looms a weaver can take care of. The least expense would be incurred by using a Northrop loom. THE WARP should be sized so as to withstand the chafing during weaving. As a rule all single yarns are sized before they are beamed. The warp is drawn in on eight harnesses, straight drafting. Fig. 1 shows design. mamDmama Dmamamam mamamama □■DBDaaa aaaaaaaa oaaanana aaaaaaaa Fig:. 1. FINISHING. The unbleached receives little or no finishing. After it comes from the loom, it is simply boiled off, dried, made up into rolls and then shipped. When the fabric is to be bleached, it is first boiled off, then subjected to the bleaching chemicals, after which it is sometimes subjected to a very light sizing, composed of corn, or wheat, glycerine, bees' or Japan wax, after which it is nm through a rotary press, then made up into rolls, and shipped. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which butcher's mus- lin' is made are of a low count and are made in mills of the first division. The grade of cloth is sometimes made up of raw stock and a certain percent- age of waste. The raw stock used very rarely exceeds % inch in staple and is of a low-grade American cotton. While the same care is not taken of this class cotton at the different proc- esses for this cloth, still care should be take.1 to see that each machine is working properly to its best advan- tage for production. In this class of goods production is THE FIRST CONSIDERATION and quality the second. This does not mean that quality should be sacrificed wholly for production, but that the machines should be driven to a greater extent and the best possible work turned off of them under these conditions. For ex- ample, at the card the top flats should not be set or driven at ine same speed as when finer goods are made, and so it is with all the ma- chines. The cotton mixings should always be as large as possible and should be allowed to stand as long as possible before being used. This gives the cotton a chance to dry out. A bet- ter plan (if there is room enough) is to have two large mixings and use the cotton from one while the other is drying out. If cotton is very damp, the heat should be turned on to help dry it out. This is generally done at night or over Saturday and Sunday. It is at this point that the good waste from all the machines is mixed in, care being taken to see that the waste is spread as evenly as possible over the mixing. As the cotton is gener- ally quite dirty, it is put through an opener and three processes of picking. The hopper of the opener should al- ways be kept full of cotton. The open- er is connected directly with the breaker picker and this machine is provided with either a two or three bladed rigid beater. If of a two-blade type THE SPEED should be about 1,550 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up and doubled four into one at the intermediate^ picker. This beater is generally of' a two or thret- bladed rigid type and if the former its speed is 1.500 revolutions per minute. The lans at the front of this machine weigh 38 pounds total weight and 10 178 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ounces per yard. The laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. This machine is generally- provided with a two-bladed rigid type of beater having a speed of about 1,- 500 revolutions per minute. The laps at the head end weigh 40 pounds or 14% ounces to a yard. An allowance of 10 ounces either side of standard is made with this staple cotton. If the lap varies more than this, it should be run over again. These laps are put up lat THE CARD. This should be set coarse and have No. 100 wire fillet on cylinder and top flat, the doffer fillet being No. 110. The draft of card should not exceed 100. Strip cards at least three times a day. The cards on this stock need more stripping than when long-stapled stock is used, because of the greater bulk passing througti and also on ac- count of the short staple, which fills up the wire. The card sliver weighs 65 grains per yard and the production should be about 1,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. This is put through two processes of drawing frames. It is of great advantage tO' use metal- lic rolls on this class of goods. The speed of front rolls is 400 revolutions per minute. Keep rolls free from dirt and fly. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .40 hank roving. This is put through two processes of fly frames, having the following hank roving: 3.30 at the first and 3.25 hank at second. The roving ic then taken to the spinning room and made into 15s on the filling frame a.nd 12s on the warp frame. Use a warp frame with 3-inch gauge, 2%-inch ring and 7-incli traverse, with a 16.45 twist per inch and spindles revolving at 9,000 revolu- tions per minute. This yarn is then spooled and wound on a warper. Enough beams are put up at the back of the slas'her to give a beam with the required number of ends m front. To make 15s filling yarn, use a frame having 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diam- eter ring, 6l^-inch traverse, 12.59 twist per inch and spindle speed of 6,900 revolutions per minute. HENRIETTA CLOTH, Henrietta cloth is a light-weight fabric for women's wear, made in all colors from single worsted yarn, with silk mixture in the best qualities. The cheaper qualities are made with cotton and worsted, the cotton yam being for the warp, while the worsted is used for filling. Henriettas are made in various qualities; for exam- ple, the "all worsted" from various grades of fine worsted yarn; the worsted and silk mixture from various grades of each; the "cotton and worst- ed" made up in various qualities of cotton and worsted yarn. When the fabric is made with differ- ent qualities of yarn, that is, the warp differing from the filling in quality or kind, the cheaper quality or kind is in all instances used for warp. The rea- son for this is readily understood, when the character of the weave is taken into consideration. The weave for this fabric is a one up, two down twill, the weave repeating on three ends and three picks. Fig. 1 shows. amaomaama anuaamaam nmaamaama maumaamna oamaamaam mnamanmoa Pig. 1. DGDncnnzB DDDDCDDBa DDDDnmnna nDDDBDnaD □DaBDDDDa DDBDDDDDD DBDoannDD ■DDnDDDCn Fig. 2. nine repeats of the weave; Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. This weave will show but one-third of the warp on the face of the fabric and two- thirds of the filling; the filling is usually of a slightly coarser count than the warp, especially when cotton warp is used, consequently the filling, to a certain extent, covers the warp yarn. The two factors, the weave, viz., — ^ twill and the coarser count of filling, give to the face of the fabric a much finer feel than the back. The feel or handle of henri- ettas is very important, consequently the above-mentioned particulars should be kept in view when construct- ing a fabric of this character, as its commercial value is largely influenced by the feel of the fabric. PIECE DYED. The cloth is dyed after it is woven. Considerable quantities of cotton and worsted henriettas are bleached or finished in the gray; when the cotton and worsted fabric is to be dyed, the cotton yarn is prepared so as to take color in a worsted dye, otherwise two dyeing processes would be necessary — one for the cotton yam and one for the worsted. The one dip or union dye makes the cost of finishing hut A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 17& normal. Preparing the cotton yarn, for tlie worsted dye is accomplished be- fore the yarn is warped or beamed. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches. Width of fabric finished, 35 inches. Ends per inch in reed, 70. Ends per inch finished, 76. Reed, 35x2. Ends in warp 2620, plus 40, 20 ends each side selvedge; total ends in warp, 2,660. Warp yarn, 1-oOs cotton. FILLING. l-40s worsted. 64 picks i>er inch in loom. 66 picks per inch finished. Finished weight per yard, three ounces. WEAVING. Henriettas are usually woven on dobby looms, the speed of which is from 120 to 140 picks per minute; it is essential that the warp is well sized, adding about 15 per cent of weight to the yam; wheat, flour, sago or potato starch may be used; in connection with this, a small quantity of chloride of magnesium should be added to give the yarn the necessary moisture and pliability. FINISHING. First process: After the fabric is woven, it is scoured, then bleached, dyed or left in the gray as the case may be, after which the fabric is sub- jected to a very light singeing in order to slightly stiffen the cloth, after which it is pressed, then made up in- to rolls. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yams which make up henrietta cloth are made up of two fibres, worst- ed for the filling and cotton for the warp yarn. The count of the warp yam is 1-50 and this count of yam would be made up in mills of the sec- ond division, as given in a previous ar- ticle. This equipment should include combers, as this yarn in most grades of the cloth under description is combed. The cotton is mixed in the usual method, which has been de- scribed several times. It is OF GREAT ADVANTAGE to use a bale breaker for this class of yams. The cotton is put through three processes of picking, the breaker picker being combined with an open- er. The breaker picker is provided with a three-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- ute. The lap at the front weighs 39 pounds to the lap or IG ounces to the yard. These are doubled 4 intO' li at the intermediate picker. This pic^lceir has a pin beater, the speed of which is 1,300 revolutions per minute, • the fan speed being reduced on account of the extra draft caused by the pin beat- er. The total WEIGHT OF LAP ! at the front end of this picker is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. At this point the cut roving waste is also mixed in 'in the proportion of 1 lap cut waste to 3 laps raw stock. This picker is gen- erally provided with a two-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,400 rev- olutions per minute. Keep the beater blades sharp and properly adjusted. Thisi speed of the beater gives the cot- ton passing through the picker about 40 beats or blows to the inch. The to- tal weight of lap at front is 35 pounds or a 121^ -ounce lap. The lap for this class of work is allowed half - a pound variation either side of stand- ard weight; if more than this, it should be run over again because, if put up at the card, it would have a tendency to make uneven work. AT THE CARD the following particulars should be obseirved: Draft of card not less than 110; wire fillet for cylinder, 120s; for doffer and top flats, 130is. Use large doffer. Strip three times a day. Grind all fillet once a month, leaving grinding rolls on all day. Grinding twice a month is better, leaving grinding rolls on half a day. The speed of the licker-in is 300 revolu- tions per minute; flats, 1 revolution in 35 minutes. The weight of the sliver at the front should be about 50 grains per yard: production, 550 poundsi per week of 60 hours. This sliver is tak- en to sliver lap machines^ and doubled 14 into 1 for 8% -inch lap or 20 into 1 for 10%-inch lap. The SPREAD OF ROLLS, for this stock (peeler 1%-inch staple) should be as follows: Front to mid- dle, 1% inches; middle to back, 1% inches. The weight per yard of lap at the front is 300 grains for 8%-inch lap or 350 grains for a 10%-inch lap. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight per yard of lap at the front is 265 grains for 8%-inch lap or 315 grains for 10%-inch lap. This gives a draft of about 7 for this machine. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, ac- im A COTTON FABRICS G-LOSSARY. ■cuidiug Lo the numbef of Heads on the ■comoer. If 6 heads, the laps should be IUV2 inches wide and s.ei as follows: iJubhion plate to half lap, is gauge; to.p combs to segment, 20 gauge. Feed at 0^2, top comb set to 2,i) degrees an- gle; a double row of needles is used ou top comb; 18 pei* cent waste •should be taken out. THE SPEED 'should be 100 nips per minute; draft about 40; weight of sliver, 50 grams per yard. The speed of rolls in draw box should be as follows: Front to middle, i% inches; middle to back, 1% inches. This sliv- er is put up at the drawing frames and doubled 6 into 1 and put through two processes, the speed of front roll at each process being 380 revolutions per minute, the spread of the rolls be- ing as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. Use leather top rolls on this class of drawing and keep them well varnished and in per- fect condition. The weight of sliver at the front of the finisher drawing is 65 grains per yard. This is put up at the slubber and made into .50 hank roving. AT THE SLUBBER the front rolls for this class of goods are sometimes varnished, but this is not often done, they being varnished when running on Sea Island stock. The slubber roving is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 1.50; second intermediate, 3.50, and jack, 10 hank. Look out for the traverse motion and do not lay roving too close to make triangular roving. This rov- ing is then spun into 50s yarn on a ring spinning warp frame with a 2%- inch gauge of frame, li/^-inch diameter ring and a 6-inch traverse. The speed of the spindles is 10,000 revolu- tions per minute, the twist per inch, 31.81. This yarn is next put through a spooler, then a warper and from here to a slasher. A good-sized mix- ture for this class of goods is as fol- lows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 potinds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; white soap, lYz pounds. Dyeing Particulars. This cloth is dyed with union colors, the wool and cotton being dyed in the same bath. The goods are entered into the dye kettle; after the coior has been boiled up with from 20 to 30 per cent of Glauber's salt, cool off with water to 120 degrees F. Rim the goods for 20 minutes; heat to 200 de- grees F. Run for 30 minutes. If wool is not dark enough, boil for some min- utes more; when wool is only a shade too light, turn off steam and run for oO minutes or till the cotton is col- ored to shade. If the goods are boiled too long the wool will be too dark and the cotton thin. UNION BLACK. 5 per cent union black B F; 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. LIGHT BROWN. 1% per cent diamine fast yellow B; V2 per cent diamine orange B; Yz per cent diamine brown M; 6 O'unces un- ion black B F; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. 3 per cent diamine black B H; 1 per cent union black B F; 4 per cent naphthoi blue black; 1^ per cent for- myl violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glau- ber's; 5 per cent salt. RED. 5 per cent benzo fast red S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. LIGHT TAN. 100 pounds goods: 1 ounce tetra^ zo orange G; i^ ounce union tetrazo black B; % ounce tetrazo Bordeaux G; Vs ounce tetrazo brown R; 20 per cent . Glauber's salt. SLATE. 1 per cent diamine black BH; % per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's. PURPLE. 2 per cent diamine violet N; % per cent union black; 1 per cent formyl violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's. SCARLET. 3 per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 5 per cent salt. PEA GREEN. Yz per cent diamme green B; 1 ounce diamine sky blue; 30 per cent Glauber's. ROYAL BLUE. ZY2 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; Y2 per cent diamine violet S 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. DARK GREEN. 2Y2 per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine green B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. RUBY. 3 per cent diamine fast redP; % per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 5 per cent salt. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 181 CAMBRIC. Ootton cambric is a fabric woven with, a plaia weave, tlie distinguishing effect being a heavily glazed, smooth surface. The glossy effect is obtained in the finishing process. The goods are somewhat lighter in weight than French percale. When finished white or in solid col- ors they are used very extensively FOR LINING PURPOSES. The name cambric, like many other names of dry goods, does not signify any special construction or quality of fabric, being made in both linen and cotton materials. The name is said to have been origi- nally given to a very fine, thin linen fabric made at Chambrey, or Cam- brai, in the department of Nord, French Flanders. Cambric is known in France as ba- tiste, so called, it is said, from its in- ventor, a linen weaver named Baptiste, of Chamibrey. One authority states that French cambric is the finest linen fabric made. Cotton imitations of the original cambric are of the muslin type and are sometimes termed eambric-muslin. The finer grades of cotton cambrics are made from hard twisted cotton yarns, and are of good quality. LOOM REQUIRED. Any of the light, single-box, fast- running looms are suitable for weav- ing cambrics, the goods being woven white, then bleached or piece-dyed as required. The finest grades, where mispicks tend to make second quality goods, are woven on the regular looms. De- vices have been invented aad tested which change the filling before it is entirely spent, but they have not been successful on fine filling because, com- ing in contact with the filling every second pick, in practically the same spot, they wear it out before it can be run off the shuttle. Little attention is paid to mispicks when weaving the lower qualities of goods, and these can be made most economically on the automatic looms. ANALYSIS. An analysis of a black cambric of only fair quality shows the following data: Fiaished width, 36 inches; fin- ished weight, 4 yards per pound; ends per inch, finished, 70; picks per inch, finished, 54. The average number of the yams in the finished sample is 24, but on ac- count of the starch, clay, or other fill- ing substance used in the finishing process, the gray yams would be finer than 24. To obtain the fabric just mentioned, the following might be adopted, both as to construction and finish: Width of warp in reed, 38% inches. Warp yarns, 26s cotton. Filling yams, 28s cotton. Eight double ends on each side for selvedges. Total ends, 2.536. Seventy sley reed, 2 ends per dent. Fifty-six picks per inch. Weight, 4.3 yards per pound from loom. The finisihed and unfinished weights do not bear a direct proportion to the average counts of yarns in each case on account of the increase in length of the cloth during the process of finish- ing. FINISHING. After dyeing, open the goods out to the full width and run through a man- gle containing the filling substance; then dry. After drying, dampen in a damping machine and run through a calender. For a fine white cambric the goods would be bleached, opened out to the full width, run through a starch man- gle, containing a light starch or fill- ing substance, the starch being blued to give the shade required, dried, dampened and run through a 5-bowl calender twice, the same side of the cloth being presented to the surface of the brass or steel roll each time. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of wbicl' cambric is made are spun in mills having the equip- ment of the first and second division of mills as given in a previous article. Cambric is made in mills or sets of mills where only this grade of cloth or perhaps two or three other styles of cloth of the same grade of fabric are made and after the proper gears hank roving are once found they are never changed. In fact, a machine or set of machines may run on this grade of goods its whole lifetime, the only changes made being in case of a break- down, or parts and gears becoming worn out. Cambric is made from American cotton, the length of the staple used being from % to 1% inches. For this article we will consider the staple to be 1% inches in length and the count of the yarn to be as follows: . 26s for warp and 28s for filling. THE MIXING is generally done by hand, and the 182 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. mixings are always as large as possi- ble. In some mills two large mixings are made so that one can be drying out while the other is being used. Better results areobtained by thelatter method. The good sliver waste from machines up to the slubber, as well as the cut roving, is mixed in at the mixing bin. The cotton is then put through an opener and either two or three processes of picking, three processes being the general method. The opener is either directly connected with the breaker picker or is connect- ed by trunking; if by trunking, keep it clear, so as not to cause fire. The SPEED OF THE BEATER, which is of either a two or three bladed rigid type, is 1,500 revolutions per minute for the two-bladed, or 1,000 revolutions per minute for the three- bladed type. The total weight of the lap at the front of breaker picker is 40 pounds or a IG-ounce lap. These are doubled four into one at the in- termediate picker. The speed of this beater, which is generally of a rigid., two-bladed type, is 1,450 revolutions per minute, the total weight of lap at the front being 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the fin- isher picker and doubled four into one. This picker is equipped with a two- bladed rigid style of beater, and m:akes 1.450 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton pasising through about 42 blows or beats per inch, the total weight of lap at front being 39 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. The cot- ton is next put up at the card. THE CARDS on which cambric was formerly made are to some extent now used and are known as the top flat card. These are fast going out of date, so that the particulars given belO'W refer to the so- called English card. The draft for this card, for these goods, should not exceed 90. The wire fillet used should be 100s for cylinder and 110s for dof- fer and top flats. The speed of the cylinder should be 160 revolutions per minute; licker-in, 400 revolutions per minute, and top flats should miake one complete revolution in 50 minutes. Grind once a month. Strip three times a day and if running an extra heavy production, strip once more. Set top flats to cylinder to a 12-lOOOths gauge and doffer to cylinder to a 7-lOOOths gauge. Use large doffer. The WEIGHT OF SLIVER at the front of the card should be 65 grains per yard and the production about 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver is next put through either two or three processes of drawing, generally three. The doublings are generally six into one. The speed of the front roll is 400 rev- olutions per minute. On this class of goods some overseers prefer the me- tallic top rolls. In calculating the pro- duction of a drawing frame with me- tallic top rolls, it is the general rule to allow one-third more than that fig- ured for leather rolls. It is found, however, that this is too great, and if the allowance is cut do>wn to i/i or 25 per cent, it will be found about right. Keep metallic rolls clean and well oiled. In figuring DRAFT OP FRAME with metallic top rolls, add 7 per cent when draft does not exceed 3.75, and 9 per cent when draft is between 4.60 to 7. If leather top rolls are used, care should be taken tO' see that they are properly oiled and free from flutes; they should be level, without breaks in leather, and the leather cot should be tight and last should be varnished frequently. A good recipe for a cooked varnish is given below: One quart vinegar, seven ounces glue, two teaspoons gum tragacanth, borax, size of walnut, one teaspoon brown sugar. Cook about an hour. Thicken with lampblack and Prihces® metallic. One that does not need Cooking is as fol- lows : Three ounces glue,one ounce ace- tic a«id, one-half teaspoon brown sugar, one-lialf teaspoon oil origanum. Dis- siolve and add color; add one-half tea- spoon of borax in hot weather. The bottom steel rolls should be set as follo'ws: Front roll to second. 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third roll to back, 1% inches. The weight of sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. This is put through the slubber and made into .40 hank roving. The SLUBBER ROVING is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each being as follows: First intermediate, 1.75,and second intermediate, 5; the setting of the. bottom steel rolls at each process being 1 3-16 inches from front to mid- dle and 1% inches from middle to back. The roving is taken to the ring spin- ning room and spun into 26s yarn on a warp frame having the following par- ticulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; twist per inch, 24.22; length of traverse, 6%; revolutions per minute of spindles, 9,- 200. The yarn is next spooled and then warped, after which it is put through a slasher. On this class of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 183 goods a heavy sizing is used. The roving is spun into 28& yarn on a fill- ing irame with a 2%-inch gauge of frame; 1%-inch diameter ring; 6- inch traverse; 17.20 twist per inch; revolutions per minute of spindle, 7,- 300. This yarn is then taken to the steam chest or put through some other process which prepares it for weaving. Dyeing Particulars., Cambrics are dyed in the jig ma- chine or the continuous machine. The fancy colors are dyed on the jig. After dyeing, the pieces are starched with a light starch and calendered through a heavy calender. BLACKS. One dip salt black, 6 per cent oxy- diamine black SAT; 30 per cent Glau- ber's: 3 per cent sal soda. SULPHUR BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 5 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent Glauber's. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent thionol dark green; 2 per cent thionol yello'w; 15 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda a^; 30 per cent common salt. PEA GREEN. Two per cent immedial green B B; 2 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent direct indigo blue B EM; 15 per cent salt; 2i/^ per cent frankhansine. DARK SLATE. One per cent Pluto black S S; 40 per cent Glauber's salt; 2 per cent soda ash. BROWN. Three per cent tetranil brown O; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent tetrazo yellow M; 1 per cent tetranil brown O; 30 percent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. OLD GOLD. Three per cent diamine fast yellow B; V2 per cent diamine bronze G; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. SLATE. Two per cent diamine black B H; 2 ounces diamine yellow B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda ash. MAROON. Ten per cent immedial maroon B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 5 per cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt. GREEN. Ten per cent immedial green G G; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 35 per cent salt. BLUE. Ten per cent immedial new blue G; 20 per cent sulphide sodium; 5 per cent soda ash; 40 per cent salt. ECRU. Three per cent immedial cutch G; 4 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. SCARLET. Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 30 per cent salt. WINE. Four per cent benzo fast scarlet 8 B S; 1 per cent benzo fast violet R; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue P F; 25 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. HELIOTROPE. One per cent diamine violet N; 30 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent soda. TIRE FABRICS, Tire fabrics are, as the name implies, used for automobile, bicycle and other vehicle tires. They are not actually tires them- selves, but form the base or founda- tion of some kinds of composition and pneumatic rubber tires. Like other terms denoting the use to which the fabric is to be subjected, as quiltings, bedspreads, shirtings, etc., the term tire fabrics covers a wide range of weights and qualities. The stock used in the warps for these goods is of good quality.although the single yarns used are not of very high counts. The weights vary considerably.rang- ing from about three to 20 ounces per square yard. In one type of goods this excessive variation is due almost ex- clusively to the ply warp yarns, which vary from 2 to 12 ply, from single yams varying from about 8s to 40s, according to the weight required. This 184 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. type of tire fabric is termed thread fabric. ANALYSIS. The analyses of two tire (thread) fabrics of widely varying weights show the following data: Sample No. 1. Warp ends per inch in reed, 16. Reed, 16; one end in each dent. Warp yarn, 11-ply 9s cotton. Filling: One pick per inch of sin- gle 40s cotton. Finished weight per square yard, 13.5 ounces. The weave is plain. The drawing is in straight order. One peculiarity of this class of tire fabrics, which will be noticed from the preceding data, is that the filling is used merely to keep the warp yarns in position, not being needed to give strength to the cloth. Sample No. 2. Warp ends per inch in reed, 68. Reed, 17; 4 ends in each dent. Warp yarn, 2-ply 24s cotton. Filling: One pick of 40s filling ev- ery three-quarters of an inch. Finished weight per square yard, 3.9 ounces. The ends in Sample No. 2 were drawn 2 as 1 through each heddle eye, in straight order, two picks complet- ing the weave as in an ordinary plain cloth. For a better quality of fabric with the same construction the yarns would have been drawn in straight order, reeded two ends in each dent, as Fig. shown by the vertical lines in Fig. 1, and actuated as indicated by chain draft Fig. 2. X X X X Pig. 2. By this arrangement the ends work- ing together would have been split or separated with the reed and prevented from rolling over each other. If woven on a cam loom working four harnesses, the drawing in and reeding would be as indicated in Fig. 1 Fig. 3. 3, and the lifting of the harnesses as indicated in Fig. 4. Reed ends at lines in Fig. 3., two ends in each dent. LOOM REQUIRED. Tire fabrics may be woven on ordi- nary one-shuttle cam or dobby looms, there being but one warp and one fill- ing, provided provision is made for the proper regulation of the let-off and take-up motions. On the heavy grades of goods, it is advisable to fold the woven fabric as it is madfe, instead of running it on a cloth roller, on account of the large yardage produced in a short time. The two samples analyzed were wov- en on a heavy loom running about 90 picks per minute. Fig. 4. Carding and Spinning Particulars, In a previous article the i;otton mills were divided into three divisions, each division having a different equipment of machinery. The yarns that make tire fabrics do not come under the head of any of these divisions,but may be classed among those having a spe- cial equipment. This is on account of the extra length of staple used, which is very rarely less than 1% inches, and from this up to the long- est staple grown, 2^, Inches. The stock is. of course, Sea Island. It will therefore be readily understood that the machines in use in the other divi- sions of mills, having drawings rolls, such as drawing frames, slubbers, fly frames, etc., could not spread the bot- tom steel rolls the required distance, so as not to break the staple. In or- der to do this, specially constructed frames have to be obtained, which al- low this spread of rolls. ANOTHER POINT is that the one main object sought is strength and this is the chief reason why long staple is used, the counts of yarn being extremely low for the length of the stock, i. e., 2-24s warp and 40s filling, so that the additional points that should be looked out for, besides those that will be given below, are to see that the top clearers cover all the top rolls, that the spread of the rolls is enough so that the staple will not be broken, and that the traverse mo- tion is in perfect shape and working properly. As it is strength that is sought, the cotton is GENERALLY COMBED to get all short staple out, but some- times the stock is only carded. When carded, the carding should be light or, better still, double carding should be used. In this article we will consider A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 18i the yarn to be combed. The mixing should be done by hand, the cotton be- ing first stapled to see that it is up to standard, whicn lor this article -svill be considered as two inches. The cotton, after being allo-wed to dry out, is put through an opener and either one or two processes of picking,generally one. If one process is used, the lattice is marked off into sections of one yard each and an equal amount of cotton put on to each section to make the required weight lap in front. If two processes are used, the opener is com'bined with the breaker picker. The speed of the boater of the breaker picker should be about 850 revolutions per minute for a two-bladed rigid type. The total weight of the lap at the front should be 32 pounds oran8%-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the finisher picker; the speed of this beat- er should be 800 revolutions per min- ute. The total weight of lap at the front should be 27 pounds or a 9-ounce lap. A variation of not over 6 ounces either side of standard should be al- lowed. All laps outside this variation should be run over. The picker laps are put up AT THE CARD. On tnis class of work the draft of the card should not be less than 140 and from this iip tO' 180. The wire fillet used should be No. 120s for the cylinder and No. 130si for the doffer and top flats. The speed of the cylinder should be lf)0 revolutions per minute, licker- in 200 revolutions per minute, and top flats should make one complete revolu- tion everj^ 35 minutes. Cards should be stripped three times a day, al- though some overseers claim that stripping the cylinder twice and the doffer three times a day is plenty. The cards should be ground once a month or oftener if wire is dull. For this class of goods keep wire fillet as sharp as possible. Use close settings, except that of the feed plate to the licker-in, which should be set so as not to break the staple. Pull the staple at the back and front of card at least once a day to see that the length of staple is the same in both places. The weight of the sliver at the front should be from 35 to 45 grains per yard, 45 grains being a good weight. THE PRODUCTION should be about 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. Keep front of card clean, so that the short fly, etc., will not get into the good carded cotton. The cot- ton is next put through the sliver lap machine, where it is doubled 20 into 1 for a 10V2-inch lap, or 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. We will consider that the lap being made is a IQi/^-inch lap used on an eight-head comber. Set the bottom steel rolls as follows: Front roll to middle, 2^4 inches; mid- dle roll to back, 2% inches. In comb- ing this cotton the instructions gaven in a previous lesson may be followed with the following exceptions: The weight of the sliver lap per yard is 275 grains; at the ribbon lap 260 grains per yard. The cotton lap is next put • through the comber. The SPEED OF THE COMBER for this stock should be about 85 nips per minute. The doublings are 8 into 1 (for an eight-head comber). The percentage of waste taken out is from 25 to 30. Use close settings, 18 from half lap to segment and 21 from top comb to segment. The sliver at the cam should weigli 45 gi'ains. After the comber use three processes of drawing, the spread of the rolls being as follows: 2% inches from front to second; 2^4 inches from second to third roll; 2% inches from third to back roll. Look to the top leather cov- ered rolls to see that they are in per- fect shape and properly varnished. The weight of the sliver at the front of the finisher drawing should be CO grains per yard. The doublings at the draw- ing should be 6 into 1. At the slubber this drawing should be made into .70 hank roving. At this frame SEVERAL CHANGES are made, which are as follows: The top leather 7-olls are vairnished, some- times all three sets, and sometimes only the front rolls. The size of the front leather roll is sometimes in- creased to 11/^ inches, or even to 2 inches in diameter. This is to hel.^ prevent the roving "licking up"; when this is done, top clearers simi- lar to those used on mules are used. The slubber roving is put through two processes of fly frames and made into the following hank roving: 2.25 at the first intermediate" and 5 at the second for the 40s cotton, and for the 24s cotton the hank roving at each frame is as follows: 2.25 at the first and 8 at the second intermediate. The spread of the rolls should be as follows: Front to middle, 2 inches; middle to back," 2% inches. It should be understood that when giving the spread of the rolls, the distance is from centre to centre. The warp yarn is then spun into 24s on a warp frame having a 2-inch diameter ring and a 7-inch traverse. Some overseers give a little more than standard twist to this yarn. The yarn is then put through the spooler and from here to 1?(1 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. tli^ t'wister, where it is made into 2- ply. yarn. From here it is put through the warper and the slasher. ;The fill- in'^' yarns may be either mule Or ring spun'; if spun on a ring frame for 40s yarn,, use a 1%-inch ring and 5i/^-inch traverse. This yarn is then condition- ed, when it is ready to weave. PLAIN and PLAIDED NAINSOOK Nkinsook is a light cotton fabric, utilized for numerous purposes,such as infants' clothes, women's dress goods, lingerie, half curtains for dining rooms, bathi-ooms and for various other pur- poses. The striped or plaided nainsook is used for the same purposes as the plain fabric, depending upon the tasit6s of the consumer. Where the fabric is required for lingerie and in- fants' wear, the English finished fab- ric is seleicted because of its softneiS'S. When intended for curtains ov dress fabrics the French finished fabric is chosen; the latter finish consists of slightly stiffening and calendering the fabric. The name nainsiook is derived from the Hindoo Nainsukh and was orgi- nally defined as a stout India muslin, manufactured in India. The fabric as manufactured to-day may be distinguished from fine lawns, fine grades of batiste and fine cam- brics from the fact that it has not as firm construction, or as much body, and the finished fabric is not as smoo'th nor as stiff, hiK incline's to softness, principally because it has not the body to retain the finishing materials used in finishing the fabric; consequently it must needs be a cheaper article than the fabrics above mentioned. Nainsook, like most cot- ton fabrics, is made in several grades,- the different grades being affected by the counts of yarns used, which in turn inflwence the ends and picks per inch in the construction. .;' ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 30 1^ inches; width of fabric finished, 281/4 inches; ends- per inch in reed, 82, reeded 2 in 1 dent; ends per inch finished, 86, ends in body, 2,460, plus 40 ends selvedge, equate 2,500, total ends in warp; take- up during weaving, 5 per cent; weight of fabric, ll^ ounces per yard; warp yam, l.-50s cotton; filling yarn, l-64s oottoin; C6 picks per inch in loom; 68 picks per inch finished. Fig. 1, de^^ sign; fig. 2, chain draft; fig. 3, draw- ing-in draft. LOOM REQUIRED. Nainsook, like various other one- filling fabrics of the character under discussion, may be woven, on any light, single box, high speed loom. Plaided nainsook seems to imply OBBBBBDHDQDBDBDB aaaaaBaaaDBDBaBa ■BaBaaaBaaDBGBaB ■aBBBJBDBDB BDBD aaBBBBDaaBaBDflDB ■aaaaaaaaDBGBDaa ■aDHaaaaDBDaaaaa ■□aBaaaaaaaaaaaa DBBBHaaanBaaDaaa ■aaaaanaaaDaDGBa BBDaDaanDDaffiaDDa ■DaaaDDDDDBDDDDa DBiaaBaaaoDaaacDD aaQnaanaDaDDEDDD ■aaaaaGa '^aoBDBDa BUBBB .;wr'aDQUBC'BG aaaaaaGB BaGDcnB BBBDaaBDaDBDBaGa aaoaaBaDCffiDBQBDB aasaaaDBGHGanBCiia GaiaBMMDBDBDBDESGB BBaDBBBGDGBGaGEG aa-iB iBGDGaaaaGGB BGBBBaGGBGGGGOBD DBHaaBaaGDaaGaaa ■BBDaaaaaGBGnDaa BBaBGaGHGaGGGaan BDBBBaBDnDaaBGGD Fig. 1. DBBBDBGBGB BBBGBGBGBG BBGBGGGBGB BGBBBGBGBD GBaaGBOBGa BDtaGBDaaaa BBDBGBGBGa BGBaaGBGBG DsaaaaGDBGD BBBGGDBGGG BBGaaGGGGB BGBtQGGGGBG GaaaGBGGGG BaaaaGGGGa BBGBntSDBGB BaBBBGBGBG GaaaGBGBGB BHEGBGaQBG aBGBGBGBaB ZGBaBOBGBG GBaBGBGBGB BBBGBGBGBG BBGBGGGBGG BDBBGGBGan GBBBGGGGGB BBBQGGaGBa BHaaDBGGaa BGnBBGGGGG Fig. 2. naaoaaanGGGBGGGD GQaQGGaGaGHGGGGG DGGGGGGGGaaaaGGB DGaGGGGGSaGaDGGBG DnGGaaCBGGGGGBaG nGnGaGBDGGGGBGGG DDGBGGQGGGGGGGGG DGBGaGGGGGGGGGGn naGaaaaGGoaGGGGa ■DDGGaGGDGGGGGQG Fig. 3. the use of more than one filling, the plaid, however, is formed by the weave. See design. Fig. 1. FINISHING. This fabric is given either whjat may be termed an English or a French finish. By the former finish the fabric, after it comes frordi the loom, is boiled off, then bleached, af- ter which it is softened by im- mersing in a light solution of glycerine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 187 farina, after which it is dried by pass- ing over heated cylinders, then run through a rotary press with very light prefisure. In the French finish, after the fabric is bleached, it is stifEemed by immersing in a solution of size, com- posed of the following ingredients: nour, wax and gelatine, after which the fabric is dried, then slightly sprinkled with water, then run through the calender, which completes the finishing process. Carding and Spinning Particulars. One mill making the above style of fabric makes' its warp and filling yarn as described below. This mill is in^ eluded in the secomd divisioin as given in a previous article. Its equip- ment includes both combers and a bale breaker. The stock used is li^- inch good quality Allen seed cotton. The cotton is put through three processes of picking and an opener. The openeir is connected with the breaker picker. This picker is pro- vided with a two-bladed rigid type of beater, which rotates at 1,500 revolu- tions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front of this beater is 40 pounds oir a 16-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. This picker is also provided with a two-bladed, rigid beater, vhe speed of which is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 38 pounds or a 12i/^-ounice lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 inito> 1. It is at this point that the cut roving waste is mixed in, it having first been put through a roving picker and a picker to form it into a lap. THESE ROVING LAPS are mixeid m with the raw stock in proportion of three laps raw stock to one lap cut waste. The beater used on this picker is a two-bladeid, rigid type and its speed is 1,400 revolutions per minute. This gives the cotton passing through the picker about 42 beats or blows per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front is 36 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. The laps are next put up at the card. This card is provided with a 26-inich doffer. The speed of the licker-in is 350 revolutions per minute, fiats one revolution every 43 minutes. The draft is 100. Cards are strippe'd three times a day, ground twice a month, and the wire fillet used is No. 34s for the cylinder and 36s for the doffer and flats. The weight of the sliver at the front of the card is 50 grains and the production is 600 pounds per week of 60 hours. This mill is equipped with 6-head, 8%-inoll lap combers. THE SLIVER from the card is doubled 14 into 1 at the sliver lap machinei and the weight of the lap is 320 grains. These lapis are put up at the ribbon lap and dou- bled 6 into 1, the weight per yard at the front being 275 grains. These are put up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1, the weight of the lap at the can being 40 grains per yard. The speed of the comber is 90 nips per minute and 18 per cent of waste is taken out. The sliver is then put through two processes of metallic top roll drawing frames, the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing be- ing 70 grains per yard. The speed of the front roll is 375 revolutions per minute. The drawing is then put up at the slubber and drawn into .55 hank roving. This is then put through three processes of fly frames and made into the following hank roving at each frame: First intermediate 1.50, second 4, and jack frame 12 hank. The bottom steel roll SETTINGS are as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to back, 1% inches. The front top rolls of the slubber are varnished. The roving is next taken •up to the ring spinning room and made into 64s for filling and 50s for warp. For spinning 50s warp yarn use a frame having 2%-uich gauge, li/^-inch diameiter ring, 6-inch traverse, and put in 31.71 turns or twists per inch. The spindle speed is 10,000 rev- olutions per minute. This yarn is then put through a spooler and a warper and then a slasher. The filling frame to spin 64s should have a 2%-inch gauge, 11/4-inch diameter ring, 5-inch traverse, 27 twists per inch and a spin- dle speed of 7,700 revolutions per min- ute. This yam is taken to the condi- tioning room and then it is ready to be woven. SPOT and STRIPES As Produced by Means of an Extra Warp. The spot or stripe may be effected by the weave alone or by means of ex- tra warp and filling. The latter meth- od of constructing these fabrics will be considered. Fabrics of this charac- ter are made in a variety of qualities 188 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. — from an "all cotton" to a very fine woolea or worsted fabric. The elabo- ration of the spot or stripe is largely influenced by the material used in the body of the fabric. The rule with Fig-. 1. few exceptions is, the finer the quali- ty of the material, thd more elaborate is the stripe or spot. THE SPOT PATTERN. The spot is effected by floating the extra warp or filling yarn on the back of the goods for a given space, then raising the extra yarn to the face of the fabric for a given number of picks. The size of the spot depends on the number of picks or ends which the extra yarn floats over, which may be only one, two or more picks or ends. This, of course, is the simplest form of the spot pattern. The simplicity of this method of construction lends itself readily to some very neat effects in small spot pat- tern s; for example, by using different colored yarns for the spot, arranged in some order, on a ground composed of a 4x4 herringbone weave, with ground color scheme as follows: 4 ends green, 4 ends black, 4 ends brown, 4 ends black, with the same arrangement in the filling. The spot yarn may be com- posed of several colors, as, for in- stance, red, white and yellow. In making the spot, with extra warp yarn only, the spot yarn is usually di- rectly under the lightest ground color and forms the spot at the junction of light ground colors, referring to ground color scheme given above. The spot yarn comesi to the face of the fabric where green crosses green tor two picks,then floats on back until the alternate crossing of green. This form of spot is operated on but two harnesses. The more elaborate spot is formed on the same principle as the small two-pick spot, just men- tioned; the elaboration consists of the use of more ends. These ends are wov- en in, in the form of a figure, which requires the use of from 4 to 12 har- nesses and more, in order to form the spot. These large spots are usually woven on a plain ground weave. The pattern would be read: 1 end of ground- 1 end of figure or extra yarn. The figure could be removed without affect- ing the ground weave, by reason of the fact that the spot is formed en- tirely by extra yarn. The spots are woven in the cloth in some order; for instance, they may be based on any satin, broken twill, or plain weave or- der. Fig. 1 is a sample of spot pattern formed by extra warp yarn. RAISED STRIPE PLAID. These fabrics are much in use as a dress fabric for children and are made in all cotton, worsted and cotton, and all worsted, with the exception of the raised stripe, which is usually mer- cerized cotton or silk. ■■■■DB ■■DHMB DBaSHB ■■■DMB ■■■■■a Fig. 2. The raised stripe is formed by the use of partially extra yarn in both warp and filling, that is to say, if a stripe is formed with 12 ends, these 12 ends would be reeded so as to take the place of only .8 gi'ound ends; for example, if ground is reeded 2 in 1 dent, the stripe is reeded 3 in 1 dent. If we use for ground weave — 5 twill, the raised stripe must be a weave that is divisible by 3 — ^the num- ber of ends in the repeat of ground weave; in order to produce perfect stitching,a 6-end irregular satin would be required. In laying out the pattern, or color A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 18& arrangement, it should be observed that the pattern is divisible by 6, and that the number of ends be- tween the raised stripes in both warp and filling is divisible bj' 6, otherwise 198 Top. ■ Dl UliSL innfflDEin „„ JDDaafflQ i^ ■aBaOBMBDfflDDDD S nBnaBBBBDDDnnffl •;* ■OBBBDBBDDnBDn ; :; OBBBBBBDffinDaDD |;r anaaBBBBD BGDB ]-'\ nBBBBBDBOBDDBD i BDBBDBUBBDDBDn ]Z DBDBBBBBaaBDDa ;™ BnBBBDaBDBDDBa ill GBBBBBBOBaDBDO ]ll BnBDBBBBDDffinDa J°° rBBBBBDBDDDDfflD ]f, BnBBDBBBDfflODnn ]ti DB^BBBBBDDDDDS ]°7 BnBBBDBBnnnffiDn }i}, DBBBBBBOfflDnaan ;* BaBDBBBBDDBnDB 1" DBBBBBDBDBnDBa }i? BDBBDBBBBDaBDD ]L'. DBDaBBDBDDBDaB }i^J BDBBBaBBDBaDBD !;■' DBBBBBBCBDOBDn 'Lf, BnaaBBBBDnfflDna }Li nBBBBBDBnnanffln Jl; BDBBnBBBDEBDnDa i;i nBaBBBBBnannaa li 11 BDHBBDBBDDDfflDQ l« nBBBBBBDfflnnDDD l-,!? BDBDBBBBDDBDDB flSa DBBBBBaBOBaDBD 8 times J }T ■□■■□■BBBDDBna *"=»-! 12a DBDBBBBBnaBnnB " lOBBBOBBOBDDBD IBDBDDBna '-" ■u»uB*BBDDfflnna "a DBBBBBaBnODnfflD lis BDBBnBBBDaCDDD 117 DBDBBBBBDnDDna nil BnBBBDBBDDDffinn ll-> DBBBBBBOfflDDnnn ^ ';! BaBDBBBBDDBnnB r ii nBBBBBDBnBnaBa Uime-J ':' BnBBDBBBBODBna . time. J ,,. QBGBHBBBnDBnr ■ BnBBBDBBDBDDBD OBBBBBBnBDOBaa "J BDBDBBBBDDfflDnn •j" PBBBBBDBaDDnffin il-i BDBBnBBBnaDi DD i« DBnBBBBBDDDDna la BDBBBDBiBnnnffinn 111 DBBBBBBDISaDODD iKi BDBDBBBBDDBDDB :••■> DBBBBBCBDB' DBG 'JS BGBBGBBBBGDBDn ''>T DBDBBBBBDDBDDB M BDBBBDBBDBDDBG .» GBBBBBBGBGDBDD 54 BGBDBBBBDDffDDG ■W DBBBBBGBGGGQBD 52 BGBBGBBBDaDDDD 51 DBDBBBBBDDDDDa ^DBBCDDaDG GfflGDGDD 4' ■ububbhBGGbDDB 47 DBBBBBDBDBDDBD *> BGBBDBBBBDDBDD 45 UBGBBBBBDDBGDB 44 BGBPBaBBDBGDBG 4.'< GBBBBBBDBGGBDD 4a BDBGBBBBGaanGG 41 GBBBBBGBDOGGffiD 40 BGBBGBBBDSGDDn :(!) QBGBBBBBDDDDDa :is BDBBBDBBDDGSan 7 giBBBBBGBGDGDn Li BGBGBBBBGGBDDB ^BBBBBDBGBGDBD BDBBDBBBBGGBGD GBGBBBBBGGBGDB BGBBBGBB^BGGBG GBBBBBBDBGDBCD let bar in cbaiD 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 2 4 6 8 111 12 14 Fig. 3. imperfect stitching will result when using a — 5 twill for ground weave. These fabrics are made in various widths; the cotton goods are set usual- ly at 38 inches in reed, and finish at 36 inches. ANALYSIS. WARP AND FILLING PATTERN. 36 ends bleach cotton. 4 — 6 ends blue cotton mercerized. 6 ends bleach. i — 6 ends blue. 6 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends blue. 30 ends scarlet. 12 ends green, start 12. 4 ends black. 2 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends scarlet. DDDGDnBDDDDn DDDDDDdBDDDG GGGGGDaGBGaD GGGGGGDaGBCG DaGaGGGDGGBG GgGGGGdGGGGB BaGGGGDnGGGG GBGaDGDaGGGG G-iBGGGdGDGGG DGGBGGaaGGGG DGDaBDGGaGGD DGGaGBDGGGOD aaGaaGBGDGGD DGGaGGDBGGaa DGGGGaaGBGGD DGGnCDDGGBGD GGGGGGdGDGBG GGGaGGaGGGar GGBGGGgGGGGG DGGBnGQDGGDG DaaGBGaaQGDG DGGaGBGGGGQG DGGGGGliGGGGn GaaGnDDBGGGG gDGGQGaGBGGG DGGGDGnaaBGG DDGaaGGGGGBG DGGGGGGGGCGB BaGGGGGGGGGG i aBGGGGnaDDGG I I DaBGaDaaaaDDa ! i GGGBGGGGDGGG* r' gDGGBGDDODGD I " aDGGGBGGGGGG J GGGGGGBGaGGG GGGGGGGBGnGG u GGGGGGGGbGDD »H pggggggggbog g gGGGGGGGDGBG Q gGGQGGGGDGGB W BGGGGGGGGGGG ■^"■GGGGGGGGGG gaBGGGOGGGGGs Is naGBGaDGGGGG* M 1. r:* GGlGBGaGGGGG GGGGGBGGGDGG - DGaGDGBDDDDD DGG IGGGBGGGG DGGGGGGGBGaG GGGGGGGGGBGG GGGGGGGDDGBn GGGGGggGGGOB BaGGgaaGGGGD DBGGGdGGGGGG GGBaGGGGGGGD DDDBGg DGGGG OnGGBnGGGGDG GGGGGHGGGGaa GGGGGDBDDGGn □GGnGGGBGnan GGGGGgGGBGDD DDGGaDDGaBGD DGGGGgGGGGBG DGGGGGGGGGGB BGGGGGGQGGDa GBGGGGGGGGGD GGBGGGGGGGGG GGGBGGGDGGDD DDDD^GGGGGGG GGDGGBGGGGGG GGGGGGBGDGGD aGGGGGGBDGGG GGGGGGGGBGOG GGGGGGGGGBGG DIJaaaGGGGGBG GGGGGGGGGGGB BaaaDGGGGGaa DBaGG-inGDGDD DDBGDGGGDGGG I DDGBGaGGGGDCg > DGGGBnGGGGGQ- | nDGDGBGDGGGG J 1.000—2 reed; take-UD. picks 54, with stop 2 ends bleach. 4 ends black. 12 ends green, end 12. 30 ends scarlet. 4 — 6 ends blue. 6 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends blue. 6 ends bleach. 4 — 6 ends blue. 198 14 ends extra yarn for stripe. 184 Fig. 3 required chain draft. Fig. 4 drawing-in draft. 190 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Ends In warp. Ends In pattern. 708 bleach 64 2-40 cotton. 660 scarlet 60 2-40 cotton. 288 green 24 2-40 cotton. 396 blue 36 2-40 mercerized cotton. 72 scarlet 6 2-40 mercerized cotton. 144 black 8 2-40 mercerized cotton. 2,268 198 ends in 1 pattern. 2,268 total ends In warp. The pattern shows that we have 198 ends and picks taking up the space required for 184/or 14 ends and picks of extra yarn in each pattern require average picks per inch in fabric: 54 pick wheel — 198 in place of 184; 184 : 198 : : 54 : X equals 58 picks. To calculate filling material re- quired for 10 yards of cloth: cotton fabrics are usually given a dry finish— simply run through a rotary press with slightly heated cylinders, and slightly steamed before passing over the cylinder of the press — after which they are made up into small rolls, then shipped. PATTERN. 64 A 60 B 24 C 36 D 6 E 8 P 198 38 54 inches in reed, pick wheel. 184 2,052 divided by 184 = : 11.15 average yards of yam of colors In 1 yd. 11.15 10 yds 111.50 5.58 5% added for waste. 117.08 117.08 64 Weight of each color. 7,493.12 yds. of color A— 7.13 ozs. 7,024.80 yds. of color B— 6.66 ozs. 2,809.92 yds. of color C— 2.66 ozs. 4,214.88 yds. of color D— 4.01 ozs. 702.48 yds. of color E— .70 ozs. 936.64 yds. of color F— .90 ozs. 22.06 ozs. of filling for 10 yds. of cloth. 2-40S mercerized filling = 16,800 yards to 1 lb. LOOM REQUIRED. These fabrics require the use of box looms; a 4x1 or 6x1, or pick and pick loom, that is, a 4x4 box loom, is much used. If 6 colors are in the warp pat- tern, a 6x1 box dobby loom should be used. In the cheaper grade of plaids a 6 color warp pattern is sometimes filled with only 4 colors; this necessi- tates that one filling color covers two warp colors. A little discretion along this line will enable the manufactur- er to use a 4x1 box loom where a 6x1 should be used. This, however, is only practiced in the cheaper grade of fab- rics. FINISHING. These fabrics, if made with worsted are given a light scouring, then pressed. In the large spot patterns the extra yarn that floats on the back, when not forming the spot, is cut oflE by means of a shearing machine. The Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills making the yarn for these fabrics will be found, in either the first or second division of mills, as given in a previous article. The yarns of which this class of goods is made vary a great deal, some of the finer ones being combed. For this article we will consider the warp and filling to be carded 2-40s yarn made from a 1 5-16-inch staple peeler cotton of a good grade. The raw stock is mixed by hand, although, if done by a bale breaker, it is better, as has been before stated; especially is mis true in rainy or muggy weather. The mixings should be as large as possible and the hands mixing the cotton should break the bale into as small parts as possible. IN HAND MIXING several bales should be opened at once, and the cotton from each mixed together. At this point the sliver waste is mixed in wioh the raw stock. This should be thoroughly spread over the entire mixing. The cotton is put through an opener and three processes of picking. Always keep hopper of opener more than half filled with cotton, so as to obtain as even a feed as possible. After passing through the opener the cotton is fed on to an endless lat- tice, which carries it to the feed rolls of the breaker picker. These con- dense the cotton and present it to the action of the beater. This beater is generally the two-bladed rigid type of beater and its speed is 1,550 revolu- tions per minute. Look at the GRID BARS to see that they are properly spread and the dirt is going through them and not being drawn into the cotton again after being knocked out by the beater. Do not allow the dirt to col- lect under picker, especially under the grid bars, as it is liable to be drawn into the cleaned cotton by the draft. The total weight of lap at the front of the breaker is 40 pounds or a 16%- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. This picker is also generally provided with a two-bladed rigid type of beater, whose speed is 1,500 revolu- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 191 tions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 38 pounds, or a 12i/^-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. It is at this point that the CUT ROVING WASTE is mixed in. If the mill contains a cut roving waste picker the propor- tion of mixing is as follows: Three laps raw stock to one lap cut roving. If, however, there is no such machine, the two centre laps are taken out and the cut roving spread evenly over the surface of the last lap. This will, of course, bring the waste between two laps of raw stock. The beater of this machine is a rigid two-bladed beater and makes 1,450 revolutions per min- ute, which gives the cotton passing through the machine 411^ beats per minute. The total weight of this lap at the front is 36i/^ pounds or a 12- ounce lap. The variation allowed for this kind of work is one-half pound either side of standard. Laps weigh- ing over or under this variation are put back to be run over again. These laps are put up AT THE CARD. This card should have a draft of not less than 100. The end is set for me- dium work and uses the medium count of wire fillet for wiring dofCer flats and cylinders. Set the dofCer (which should be as large as possible) from the cylinder with a 7-1,000-inch gauge. The flats of the cards should make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. The cards should be cleaned thoroughly twice a day and the front wiped off many times more, to keep fly from falling back into good work. Strips should be collected at regular intervals which should not be so long apart as to allow the fly to accumulate so that it is liable to fall over on the doffer or be drawn up In- to the flats. This it cannot do if cards are equipped with a Thompson waste roll. The sliver at the front should weight 60 grains per yard and the production should be about 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Strip cards three times a day (twice in morning and once in afternoon) and grind all over once every three weeks. DRAWING. The cotton is next put through three processes of drawing frames. These frames may be equipped with leather top rolls or metallic top rolls. If the former, be sure to see that the rolls are well covered and in perfect condition and well varnished. The frames should at least receive a set of front top rolls every week. The speed of the front roll should be about 350 revolutions per minute. The frames may be equipped with metallic rolls to good advantage and, if they are, care should be taken to keep the flutes free from dirt of all kinds. The weight of the drawing sliver at the front of the finisher drawing frame should be 75 grains per yard. The cans of sliver are put up to the slub- ber and spun into .50 hank roving. Varnish the front loose top rolls of the slubber. The other sets of top rolls may also be varnished, but they are not so important. Keep rolls properly covered, oiled and weighted. Look out to see that no cut work is being made. After passing through the slubber the cotton is put through three processes of FLY FRAMES and made into the following hank rov- ing: at each first intermediate, 1.50; second intermediate or roving frame, 4, and jack frame 10 hank. Be careful to see that proper twist is being put in, just enough so that the roving will not break back at the succeeding process. The method of finding the standard for twist has been given in a previous ar- ticle. Another point is to see that the tension is right, because, if it is too much, the roving will be apt to be strained, while, if too slack, a soft bobbin will be made. Keep top leath- er rolls in good condition, as well as spindles well oiled for good roving. After having passed the fly frames the roving is taken to the RING SPINNING FRAME and spun into 40s yarn. If spun on a warp frame, use a frame having a 1%- inich diameter ring, 6% inches trav- erse, twist per inch of 28.46, and spin- dle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. If spun on a filling frame use a frame having a 1^-inch diam- eter ring, 5%-inch traverse, twist of 23.72 and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- lutions per minute. The yam is next twisted into 2 ply at the twister and then the warp yarn is run on a chain warper; from here it is taken and dyed, after which it has to be warped again on a beam. Dyeing Particulars. Following are the dyeing particulars on cotton yarn and mercerized yam: SCARLET. Four per cent direct scarlet A; 30 per cent common salt. 192 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. MAROON. Three and one-half per cent direct maroon B; 30 per cent common salt. PINK. Three-quarters per cent direct pink 7 B; 20 per cent salt YELLOW. Three per cent chromine G; 30 per cent salt. GREEN. One and one-half per cent naphta- mine green 4 B; 25 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Pour per cent naph famine blue 2 B; 30 per cent salt. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent naphtamine brown N cone; % per cent naphtamine yel- low N N cone; 20 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. ORANGE. One per cent naphtamine orange O; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. LIGHT OLIVE. Three-quarters per cent direct olive R; % per cent naphtamine yellow N N cone; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BROWN. One per cent naphtamine brown 6 B: 2 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 30 per cent salt. SLATE. One and one-half per cent naphta- mine black N; 20 per cent salt. BOTTLE GREEN. Five per cent naphtamine black 2 G; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 30 per cent salt. BLACK. Five per cent naphtamine black D; 30 per cent salt. HELIOTROPE. One-quarter per cent heliotrope B B; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. ECRU. ■ One ounce naphtamine brown N; 2 ounces naphtamine yellow N N; 20 per cent salt. TARTANS. Tartans, also termed tartan plaids, or Scotch plaids, are highly colored fabrics, the distinguishing effect being large plaid or check effects formed by two or more colors of warp and filling, more particularly containing sucli prominent colors as red, yellow, blue, orange, green, purple, primary and secondary colors and other shO'Wy col- ors, to a greater or less degree. Pure blacks and whites are also used. THE MATERIALS used are yarn dyed. The weaves used are usually the plain, =^ twill, ^ basket, —3 twill, ^ basket, and rearrangements of or com'bina- tions of these weaves, which distribute the warp and filling in equal proportions on both sides while re- taining a firm structure of cloth. The Mayo or Campbell weave, Fig. 1, and the C-end twill and G-end bas- anBDDaaB nBanBBDB ■DDnaaHB aaBDBnBa ■DDHaBDa aBDHDDBB GBDOBBBQ ■DBQaDBa DBBBDDBD aaBBDBDB DDBVBaOB BaBDBDBD BBDaBOaB BBDBDBDD BBBDdBDa BaBaBOBD ket are used for the finer grades of goods. Tartans, although sometimes made with cotton yarns, are more extensive- ly made with worsted. They are also made with other fibres. References to tartans being used for wearing apparel are found in litera- ture, dating back to the 15th century. At the present time tartans are used, as of old, for ladies' dress goods, and also foT a certain type of garment for men, well known where Scotchmen have found their way. The word tartan is of doubtful ori- gin, some historians claiming one and some another. For several hundred years it has been connected with cloths made and worn principally by people in the Scottish 'highlands.. The Hig'hlanders were formerly di- vided into sections, or clans, each of which had its own special tartan, the latter varying in the arrangement oi colors, or of the colors themselves, or of both, from those used by the other clans. The Scottish clans and their tartans have been ably and extensively dealt with in literature, books having been A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 193 published on the subject, to which the reader is referred for more detailed in- formation. In some of these puiblica- tions the illustrations Show the princi- pal tartans in their several colors. A collection of tartans of good qual- ity is one of the ibest aid® In studying pure color combinations that can be obtained. It is said that the tartan, no ma;tter of what colors or arrangement of col- ors the plaid may be composed, signi- fies the brotherhood of the various Scottish clans. THE SIMPLEST FORM of tartan is in two colors, arranged so many ends of one color and an equal number of ends of another color in the warp, the arrangement of filling being similar to the warp, making blocks ot equal size. The combinations of coLors, or ar- rangements of yarns, may vary as de- sired. From this base an infinite variety of variations can be made; 4, 5 and 6- color tartans are commonly made. In a tartan made in six colors, red, yellow, blue, green, hlack and white, with the exception of the yellow and v? '■' ■ ■ '■ ■i ' ■■«■■■ .■ ■• ■ « ■■ V 1 .■' ■ ■ ■■■■ aa ■ .«..* Mm '•'""•"■■""■''e"!":*/'?!!!'! ■ ■ m- » .■■.„.■■•'■' '«K;jfiraBB <« .■ MM .■■!*■- '■■•.«■■'/■■■ >.»'.■ k ' « ' '■'. ■»«■ ..-.-.--arnSi . • «. ■ a- 3ft" NO N N N ^ / / / ^ / • / / / ^ /• N N NO N N \ / / / / / / / / / / / / N X N N , X ON /J / / m / / // / / • / / N NO N O X • / • / o X / / w w w w \ N / / / / / / / / / / N N N \ NO / / / / / • / / / /^ / • X N NO N N N / / • / / / / / / • / / / / N O N N N N O N / / / / • / / / / / / • // N N O N N / / N / / w N On / / / • / / / / / • / / \ NO N ON N / • / / / / / • / / / / XO V N N N N / / / / / / / / / / / / V N N N N N / / / / / / / / / / // X N X O X « / • / o X, / / z s s 5 S S grades of goods by weaving a coarse plain cloth at the back and insert- ing wadding between the face and bajck Cloths. When wadding is used the stitching points form deep furrows, which indicate the pattern. One of the principal types of designs ing ends and one^half the back picks in each quilt are considered, i. e., when there are two face picks to one back pick. There are two types of Marseilles weaves, known as ordinary Marseilles and fast-.back Marseilles. The latter 208 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. type is used for almost all but the lowest qualities of goods. Design Fig. 2 illustrates the princi- ple upon whicih an ordinary Marseilles weave is constructed, in which the wadding lies between the face cloth amnanm namamn naaBDD oamnma amaaam ■aDDDQ Fig. 3. and the stitching, also teirmed binder, figuring, or black, ends. These ends when not required to be raised to form the pattern, remain at the back of the cloth and are not interlaced with the forcing the face cloth up, or embossin:; it. When these picks are inserted, all the face ends are raised. Fig. 3 shows the motif or order of stitching in Fig 2. FAST-BACK WEAVES. A fast-back differs from an ordinary Marseilles weave in having the fine filling; besides interlacing with the face ends, it also interlaces with the stitching ends when the latter are at the back between stitdhing points. In this way a double plain cloth is form- ed, either of which could be taken away an.d still leave a perfect single cloth. In fast-back Marseilles quilts, both face and back weaves are plain, the ~ X ON N X Son V/ / / / • / / / / ' / ' / • / w / / / « / / / / / / / ^ ♦ / - Cs Ci >«. Cv, 1^ ^ t. K cs c^ '^ ^ It ^' B V NO X N S. X o X NO N X O X N C> Cb.C^KC^Ciy . C> «:» «^ ?c^ -B X N X X ff X X \ No S SOS S C!.<<^c:> ^<^ K (^(i, ib.O.KCsCs (^ fi w / / / / /• / / / / • // y \A/ / / / / / • X N SO X ON S X O X S V s y o s ¥N/ / / /• / / // / / / / • y w / / / • / / / / / / / / • y CS (\c:s.JlN.Ci Ci.OsX(b.Cs CyCi. XC^ B X NO X S S X o «>x s V s s s c. X '^ <^ ^- cs jt Cs. C5, «S<^X <5>Ci^ Ci. B w / • / ^ / / / / / • / / y ■w N O s s / / / / / y X X s y s s s 5 1 filling. On this account the distance, filling way, between the stitohing poiints is necessarily limited. In Fig. 2 the ends marked S are sititching ends, raised over the face cloth at on the face picks and at # on the wadding picks. The picks marked W, shown in type /, indicate wadding, inserted for the purpose of adding weight and of pattern being formed by the stitching points. In Fig. 4, whicih shows a fast-back weave completed to form the motif Fig. 3, ends S indicate stitoMng ends; W indicate wadding picks, and B In- dicate back picks. Marks / show all face ends raised when wadding picks are inserted; stitching ends are all down' on these A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 209 same picks except where they are re- m 2 face, 2 wadding, 1 back, is to enable an even number of picks of one count of filling to be in- serted before the shuttles are changed. This can be done on a loom having a single box at one end and a multiple box at the other. When a pick and pick loom is used, which is in the majority of cases, 4 picks instead of 5 complete the round of filling, one pick of 6s taking the place of 2 of 12s for the wadding. The yarns in both warp and filling are usually arrauged 2 face to 1 back, making a fine effect on the face and a coarse one on the back; this in addi- tion to the wadding picks. Two warp beams are required, one of which,- that containing the stitching yarn, is more heavily weighted than the other in order to pull down the stitching points and make the em- bossed effect as prominent as possible. Thiis warp may be of equal or of dif- ferent counts from the face warp. It is usually of lower counts. LOOM REQUIRED. The patterns being large and elab- orate, a jacquard head is of necessity used, although not of such a large capacity as would at first appear. The cards for this head control the action of the stitching ends only. An examination of Fig. 4 will show that only 2 ends are necessary to complete the face weave, every alter- nate face end working similarly. The face ends, two-thirds of the en- tire number, are worked most eco- nomically by harness shafts, generally placed at the rear of the comiber board. These shafts are worked from the head in a positive manner, independ- ently of the pattern cards. To weave a quilt like the one under consideratloa, say 90 inches wide, an 1,800 hook head would be required, tied up point draft. The 20s warp would contain 3,600 ends, and the 40s warp 7,200 ends. w^i^^^fw^^^^^^ Fig. 5. making a total of 10,800 eids in the quilt. The Crompton-Knowles Loom Co. builds pick and pick box looms, with rise and drop jacquard heads, with figuring caipacities up to 1,800 hooks, containing features or attachments specially designed for weaving these goods. On this type of loom Pig. 4 could be woven with 8 instead of 10 picks in a repeat, the action being asi follows: First pick, jacquard rises, carrying the hooks selected for stitching by pattern card; all face warp raised; wadding filling. Second pick, jacquard up; one-half of face warp up and the other 210 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. half down; fi.ie filling; face pick. Third pick, jacquard up; face ends re- verse positionsi; fine filling; face pick. Fourth pick, jacquard drops and then rises again, carrying with it one-half every alternate one, of the stitching ends; all face warp^ raised; fine filling; back pick. ihe fifth, sixth and seventh picks are a repetition of the first, second and third, with penhaps the exception that a fresh selection of stitching ends have been raised. Eighth pick, jacquard drops, then raises the half of the stitching ends not raised, and leaves down the ends that were raised on the fourth pick; face ends all raised; fine filling; back pick. The principal advantage claimed for this machine over others is that the attaxjhment for raising the stitching enids, one-half every fourth pick, dis- penses with one-half of the number of cards ordinarily required. Two other methods are used for ac- tuating the stitching ends when back picks are inserted. First, by bringing jacquard cards, called plain cards, into play to work them; this method re- quires double the number of cards required for the same pattern on the Crompton-Knowles loom. Second, by using 2 comber boards, drawing the odd numbered ends through one and the even numbered ends through the other, and raising each board alternately every fourth pick. When this plan is adopted knots are put on the harness cords immediately above the comber boards so that when the boards rise the cords and ends are also raised. Light-weight Marseilles quilts are known as Toilet quilts. They vary in weight from about 2.5 pounds to 4 pomds per quilt. Heavy-weight quilts vary from 3.5 pounds in narrow quilts to 6 pounds for wide goods. In the lightest and cheapest grades of fabrics wadding picks are omitted, but when marie on the fast-back prin- ciple the back fillihg is considerably coarser than the face filling. The processes of finishin.s: are some- what similar to those exnlained in the article dealing with crochet quilts. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Marseilles quilts are of a better quality than the quilts described in the precedins: article, but are made in the same division of mills. The quilts under description require four differ- ent sizes of yarn. which are as follows: 40s and 20s for warp and 60s and 12s. for the filling. For 12s yarn use cotton, of from % to 1 inch in staple; for the 20s and 40s use 1% inch stock and for 60s 1% to 1% inch stock, all Ameri- can cotton. For the filling yarn a soft twist is used and it is generally mule spun. Mix raw stock by usual method, of course the different staples being mixed in separate bins. Hand mixing is generally used on this class of goods, but it would be OF GREAT ADVANTAGE to use a bale breaker or willow to pre- pare the cotton before it is fed to openers. All stocks are put through an opener and three processes of pick- ing. The speed of the beater (rigid two-ibladed style) for all stocks except the %-inch is 1,500 revolutions per minute. For the short stock the speed should be increased so as to take out the extra amount of dirt which is al- ways in short staple cotton. The to- tal weight of the laps at the front for all staples should be 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. At the intermediate the speed of the beater is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute for all stocks, except the short stock, where speed ^ould be increased. The total weight of lap at the front is 37 pounds or a 12-ounce lap for the finer yarns and a 10-ounce lap for the stocks for 12s and 20s yam. These are put up at THE FINISHER PICKER and doubled 4 into 1. At this picker the cut roving is mixed in in propor- tions that have been described in pre- vious articles. The speed of this beat- er varies from 1,400 tO' 1,500 revolu- tions per minute, according tO' the yiam being put through, the higher speed being used for the stock for the 12s yarn. This gives the stock for 20s, 40s and 60s about 42 beats or blows per inch. The total weig'ht of the lap at the front is as follows: 35 pounds for the 60s and 40s yarns and 39 pounds for the 12s and 20s yarns, or a 12i.^- O'unce lap for 1%-inch stock, and 14- ounce lap for the other stocks. A va- riation of one-half pound either side of standard is allowed for all the stock, except the %-inch staple, for which a variation of 10 ounces either side of staple is allowed. Follow in- structions about oiling, cleani'^g, etc., that have been given in previous arti- cles. THE CARDS should be fitted up with 34s wire fillet for cylinder and 36s for top flats and doffer. The draft of the card should be as follows: 110 for 60s and 40s varns and not over 100 for the shorter A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 211 staples. Speed of licker-in is about 325 for long staple and 375 for %-moh stock. Tlie speed of the flats for the different stocks is as follows: 1 com- plete revolution In 40 minutes for 60s yam, 50 minutes for 40s yam, 55 min- utes for 20s yarn and 60 minutes for 12s yam. Strip cards three times a day, except for the %-in. stock, when an extra stripping of both cylinder and doffer should be made, although some overseers strip only three times, while others strip the doffer only an extra time. Use same SETTINGS for card as were given in the last ar- ticle except for the %-inch stock, when those for indigo prints should be used. The production for a week of 60 hours should be as fol- lows: 1,000 pounds for %-inch stock, 800 pounds for the 20s yarn, 750 for 40s yarn and 700 poundsi for 60s yarns. The weight of the sliver is 65 grains for all staples. The cotton for 60s is combed and the instructions, weights, etc., given in the lasit article may be used for the 40s and 20s. The card sliver is put through three processes of picking and for the 129 only two' processes are used. Either metallic or leather top rolls may be used. We should recom- mend metallic rolls for the coarser work. The weight per yard at the finisher drawing should be 70 grains for all staples except the %-inch, which should be 80 grains per yard. The speed Off the front roll should be about 400 pounds for coarse work and 350 for finer staples. THE DRAWING is put up at the slubber and made in- to .60 hank for 20s, 40s and 60s yams and .40 hank for 12s yam. The roving for 60s and 40s yarns is put through three processes of fly frames' and for 20s and 12s yams two processes are used. The hank roving for each yam anid the hank roving at each process is as follows: For 60s yam, iarst inter- mediate, 1.50; second, 4.50; and fin©, 12.50 hank. For 40s yam first interme- diate, 1; second, 3; and fine, 8 hank. For 20s yam, first intermediate, 1.50; second, 4. For 12s yarn, first interme- diate 1, and second, 3 hank. THE ROVING for the filling yams is generally mule spun, because a soft twist is put in, about 2.75 x square root of yam being used. For the warp yam a ring frame is used. Of course if this fabric is made in a mill having only ring frames both yarns will have to be ring spun. The yarns for filling after be- ing spun at the mule are adl ready to be woven after being conditioned. For spinning 409 on a ring frame use a frame with 2 %-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter of ring, 6i/^-inich length of traverse, 28.46 twist per inch and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute; for 20s use a frame with 2%- inch gauge, 2 inches diameter of ringi 7 iuiches length of traverse, 21.24 twist per inch and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. After pass- ing the ring frame the yarn is^ spooled and warped and the 40s yarn is put through, the slasher. BEDSPREADS-Satln Quilts. Satin quilts, so called, are distin- guishe'd by having a fine, smooth ground, fi-om which the pattern ap- pears to stand up. This pattern is made with coarse filling interlaced with a comparatively fine warp. The latter is almost lost to view in the coarse filling, unless, examined close- ly. The coarse filling floats over the ground yao-ns to form the pattern, and under them when not required to form the pattern, being bound with binding yams, so called, generally in plain cloth order. The binding warp is all dO'wn when the ground filling is inserted. The ground yarns, warp and filling,. axe of medium counts. Pig. 1 illustrates the effiect. The term satin is proibably used on account of the fine appearance of the ground, and not from any reference to the weave, as both ground and figuring weaves are generally plain. MINOR VARIATIONS in weave have been made from time to time, and patents granted for them, with the result that these goods are now sold in the market under differ- ent names. In 1868 a paJtent was granted for this type of quilt, known then and now as Mitcheline, in which a bold figure is generally woven on a plain ground, the figure being plain, twill or satin as desired. Other names now used for practi- cally the same type of quilt are Duree, patent satin, embroidery and Kensing- ton. 212 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. Although generally woven white, some VERY GOOD EFFECTS are obtained in satin quilts by using colored ends in stripe form for the ground, as in Fig. 2. An analysis of the sample illus- trated in Fig. 2 shows the following data: Ground warp, 30s; binding warp, 20s; ground filling, 30s; coarse filling, 3s. All binding ends are white ends. The ground warp yarns are ar- ranged 3 white, 3 blue, alternately. There are G9 ends per inch, 46 of The complete weave is illustrated in Fig. 4, where ends B, every third end, are binding ends; picks C are coarse picks. Solid squares show where these ends and picks interlace to form a plain weave. Marks x show where the ground ends and ground picks weave plain. Marks . (dots) show where the ground warp is raised wlien coarse filling is iniserted, leaving the latter at tihe back as not being required to form the pattern. On the same picks in which tliese marks occur it may be noticed that J Fig. 1. 30s and 23 of 20s, arranged 2 of 30s and 1 of 20s alternately. The warp yarns are usually arrang- ed 2 ground, 1 binder, although other arrangements are used. The filling is aoTanged 2 of ground and 2 of coarse, or 1 pick of each alternately. The principle of construction of sat- in quilt weaves is illustrated in Figs. 2, 3, and 4. The effect seen in Fig. 2 is like the motive Fig. 3, each end of which rep- resents 18 ends in the cloth; eacli pick in Fig. 3 corresponds to 8 plokis in the cloth. some of the ground ends, indicated by — =, are down, allowing the coarse filliing to float over them. It is at these places ttiat'the latter forms the figure. In Fig. 4 these marks indi- cate filling. All other marks indi- cate warp. Two beams are required. The ground beam is more heavily weighted than the other, thei idea being to al- low the coarse filling to show as prominently as posisible,and tlhis filling passing first to one side of the cloth and then the oither, and lying practi- cally flat, not being bent out of a A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 213 straight line by the warp, necessitates the binder warp being held somewhat slack. The goods vary in weight from about 3 to 5 pounds. LOOM REQUIRED. Satin quilts, although containing fewer ends than Marseilles quilts, re- quire a much larger number of hooks, usually from 2,400 to 3,600. Sometimes it is necessary to use two jacquard heads over one loom. The loom part itself is somewhat sim- ilar for both types of quilts. Two Fig. 2. shuttles are used, one for each count of filling, picking 1 and 1 or 2 and 2 alternately as required. The Crompton-Knowles Looim Co. build a jacquard head designed espe- cially for weaving satin quilts. It is built straight-lift, or rise-and-drop as desired. With this machine the ground picks are woven plain, satin, or twill as desired, without the action of the oards or cyliuider. This saves labor in making the design and cutting the cards because in making a desiga the figure only need be dealt with. The binder ends, working plain all the time with the coarse picks, may be drawn tlirough harness shafts and worked from the head, irrespective of the cards, as in Marseilles weaving. The cards actually need actuate only the ground ends on the coarse picks, the remainder of the ends and picks being actuated in a positive manner by the head. FINISHING. The finishing of white quilts is about the same for all types, with the exception that soime neeid more blue and starch than others. Briefly, they are bleached, washed to reraiove the acid, run through blue mangle, starched, dried, cut, hemmed, or fringed, inspected, folded, ticketed, bundled and packed. In some mills it is the custom oo weave the number of the loom on each quilt as it is beinig woven, so that if any defect shows up in any of the sub- sequent pro'cesses it can be readily traced to its source. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Satin quilts are made in the same division of milis> as the fabric de- DBDHDB ■■■DDD ■QBDaa ■■■ODD Fig-. 3. scribed in the last article. The coitton used is similar. The make-up of satin quilts differs in different mills and even in the same mill different grades of this fabric are made. The quilt that has been analyzed for this- article is made up of the following counts of yarns: 30s and 20s warp yarn and 3s and 30s filling ya^m. As stated above, all the yarns except the 3s would be made up of cotton of 1% to 1 5-16 inch staple. The 3s would be made from a shorter staple, say % to % inch, and mixed with waste, as •will be shown later. THE MIXING. The cotton for the w'arp and filling, except the 3s, is mixed in the usual manner and after being allowed to stand as long as possible (in order that it may dry out), the good waste from the machines up to the slubber, which is collected at regular intervals, is mixed in at this point, care being used to break up sliver waste into small lengths and to spread the sliver throughout the entire miixing, so that it will not all be fed to the feeder at once. In some mills a very small per- centage of comber waste is mixed in 214 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. at this point, but it is not the general custom to use a mixture of this kind. For the 3s yarn the mixing is made uip of a certain per cent of waste, the exact percentage depending upon the mill making the quilts; it may be from 25 to 60 per cent. Generally speaking, card and comber waste is used. PICKING. The finer mixture is put through an opener and three processes of picking, the speeds and other particulars be- ing the same as given in our last arti- cle for the number yarn. For the coars- er yarn only two processes of pick- would be the same as that used for bedspreads as given in the last arti- cle, e The other particulars given in that article may also- be used. Care should be taken to see that the wire fillet on the top flats does not become choked up with the fly. In cards that have been in use for some time it is the rule rather than the exception to find fly at this point. So'metimes an adjust- ment of the brush up may entirely remedy the defect, but if not the fly has to be picked out by hand; or a better way is to put the stripping brush on thei grinding brackets and ing are used, the speed of the beater at the breaker beiing 1,500 revolutions per minute, and at the finisher being 1,400 revolutions per minute. The to- tal weight of the lap at the breaker is 40 pounds and at the finisher 39 pounds, or a IG-ounce lap at breaker and a 15-ounce lap at finisher. A va- riation of 12 ounces either side of standard weight is allowed for these laps. Look out to keep your drafts so regulated that they will not cause the laps to split and lick. These laps are next put up AT THE CARD and as it is the custom to use but one count of Wire fillet in a mill, the count useid for this sityle of quilts drive it at a slow rate of speed until the fiats have made either two or three coimplete revolutions. ANOTHER POINT to look out for is to see that the top flats are ground perfectly even. A great many overseers, if they look at the flats sharply, will be surprised to see that they are grinding more off of the back of the flat than at the front. This may not be the grinder's fault, but may be due to a defective grinding device, the main point being that they are not grinding in the same manner as they are working. It is just as well to grind the flats _ at least once a year on a fiat grinding machine, the flats having to be taken A COTTON FiABRICS GLOSSARY. 215 off to do this; which of course means the loss of producition for that card for a certain length of time, but it will mean a better quality of sliver, which will more than offset the former, as a great deal closer settings may be used. THE PRODUCTION for a week of 60 hours for all oounts of yarn (in this article) except the 3s should be 825 pounds and for the coarse yarn 950 pounds. The weight of the card isliver is 65 grains for all stocks. The yarn is next put through three processes of drawing for the finer counts and two processes for the coarse yarn. The top rolls used may be either leather covered or metallic. The advantages of both have been pre- viously stated. The speed of the front rolls for the longer staple cotton is 400 revolutions per minute, and for the short stapl0425,if convendent; oritmay be run on the same line of machines as the longer staple cotton, when the speed of the front roll would have to be the s^ame. The weight of the sliver for the 30s and 20s yarn should be 70 grains per yard and for the 3s, 80 or 85 grains per yard. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .60 hank roving for fine counts and .40 hank roving for the coarser count. The roving for the 30s is put through two processes of FLY FRAME, the haaik roving being as follows: Two hank for first intermediate and 6.25 hank for the next process; for the 20s the hank roving would be just the same at the fiirsit intermediate, but 4.50 at the last process. For the 3s the rov- ing would be put through only one more process, where it would be made into 1 hank roving. It is the general custom to spin the yarn for this class of fabric on mules on account of the soft twist being put into it, but in some eases the yarn is spun on the ring frame. The particulars given in previous articles for 20s and 30s yarn may be used, with the exception of the twist, which should be less than that given. If mule spun, the standard for twist used should be 2.75 times the square root of the count. If the 3s are spun on a ring frame, a frame should be used with a 2%-inch gauge, 1% inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch trav- erse. After passing through the ring frame the warp yarn is put through the spooler and warper and then through the slasher, and finally run up- on a beam which has the required number of ends to make the quilt. Dyeing Particulars. SKY BLUE FOR STRIPES. One per cent diamine sky blue F P; 2 per ceat sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's sialt. PINK. One-half per cent diamine rose B D; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. LIGHT YELLOW. One per cent chromine yellow G; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. LIGHT BROWN. One-half per cent naphtamine brown N; % per cent naphtamine yel- low N N; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau'ber's salt. RED. Four per cent benzo fast red 4 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal so- da, LIGHT SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 2 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. LIGHT GREEN. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 11/4 per cent diamine fast yellow F F; 2 per cent sal soda, 20 per cent uiau- ber's salt; aftertreat with 2 per cent sulphate of copper. PEARL. One-quarter per cent diamine dark blue B; i/4 ounce diamine fast yellow B; 2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; aftertreat with Va per ce.nt bi chrome; i^ per cent sulphate of copper. RAINCLOTH. Raincloth, commonly so-called, has no particular style of construction or character of weave, the name being acquired from the fact that the fab- ric is waterproofed during the finish- ing process. The most popular and best grades of raincloth may be defined as closely woven, smooth-face fabrics,made with twist warp, that is, cotton and wool, of cotton and worsted twisted together, and with all worsted or wool filling. The weave used for this fab- ric is what may be termed a five-har- ness satin '■ — -, , see Fig. 1. This fab- ric, as the name implies, is exclusively 216 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. made up into raincoats or Cravenettes, worn principally as a covering in damp or rainy weather. The fabric, after it is finished, is impervious to water. Raimcloth is a piece dyed fahric. Such shades as drabs, fawns, light and dark browns and black are the prevailing colors. The warp yarn, as already mentioned, is a two-ply thread, com- posed of a very fine cotton thread and coarser count of worsted or woolen thread. The fabric is given a wool dye. The cotton does not take on col- or. The finished fabric presents what is termed a powdered effect, that is, little specks of white show over the entire surface of the fabric. The fabric may be elaborated by means of mercerized cotton threads being inserted at regular intervals in DBiriaaniiBDa nmammamamn Bmamommnma ■nHBDHDHHn 'i ■DMOBMnaDB QBHoaaaBD* ' ^ naaBHDHDaa Fig. 1. nmnnnDDDB DDDDnaaDBD DDD" nODBDn na^aamnaan DDDDBDnCnn pnnBDDnnnD DDBnoaDDDQ ■□nnnnnnDD Fig. 2. Drawing-in Draft. both warp and filling, producing check or plaid effects, or by using a given number of solid worsted threads and a given number of twist threads ar- ranged in some order producing a stripe effect. The fabric is also va- ried as regards quality, in so far that it is made with coarser counts of yam, and less e^ds and picks per inch; in the cheaper qualities the plain weave and — 2 twill are much in evidence. Analysis follows of a first-class fab- ric: Width of warp in reed, 60 inches; width of fabric finished, 56 inches; ends per inch in reed, 84; ends in warp, 5,040. 21x4 reed. Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 per cent. Weight per yard finished, 10 ounces. Warp yarn 2-50s worsted counts, composed 1 end of l-30s worsted, 1 end 1-lOOs cotton. Filling, 80 picks per inch in loom, l-35s worsted yarn. LOOM REQUIRED. For plain raincloth, that is, a one- loom, speed from 1-lU lo 150 picks per minute, may be used; tor the five-har- ness satin weave liie warp is usually drawn in on lU harnesses straight draw, so as not to overcrowd the hed- dles and prevent chattng of the warp; for fancy raincloth the Knowles box, pick and pick loom is the one best suited for these fal^rics. FINISHING. The better quality of raincloth re- quires considerable attention in the finishing process. After the fabric comes froim the loom, it is dyed, the wool or worsted only taking color, the cotton in the warp yarn remaining white. Twist yarn is more or less ir- regular, that is, the cotton may be more prominent in some places than in others; this requires the fabric to be examined and where the cotton is found to be too prominent, it is dark- ened or inked in conformity with the ground color, after which follows the waterproofing process. Thisi consists of immersing the fabric in a combina- tion of ingredients, such as greasy matters of all natures, resin, paraffin, tannic acid, drying oils, salts of alu- mina, alums and carbonate of mag- nesia. After it is waterproofed, the fabric is pressed, made up into rolls, then made up into garments. Carding and Spinning Particulars. As has been stated in the analysis of raincloth given above, the material used in the construction of the yarns is wool and cotton. As in the carding and spinning particulars only the con- struction of the cotton yarn has been described we will follow the usual cus- tom and give the processes, with the particulars at each stage, through which the cotton passes to produce the finished yarn. The count of the cot- ton yarn described for this fabric is 100s. This may be made from either a fine, long-stapled Egyptian cotton or from a Sea Island cotton of a staple of 1% to 1% inches, the latter being the one most generally used. The bales of cotton are first stapled and graded and all those not up to standard length and quality are put one side, while the rest are mixed by hand. A LARGE MIXING is made so that there will be as few changes as possible in the yarn made from the different batches. It will be understood that it is often necessary to change certain partsof different ma- chines for almost every mixing so as to suit some peculiarity of the mixing ibeing made. These changes are gen- filling fabric, a broad Knowles dobbyerally slight and many times only A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 217 mean the changes of certain speeds or settings, but when running the dif- ferent mixings the first lot run through should be carefully watched to see that it compares exactly with the foregoing mixture. SEA ISLAND COTTON of a long staple is put through only two processes of picking and an open- er. Soime overseers put the cotton through only one process. The beater used is generally of a two-bladed rigid type and if two processes are used the speed of the breaker is 1,300 revolu- tions per minute and the speed of the second, 1,100 revolutions per minute. As will be seen, this speed is reduced considerably from that of the other cottons that have been previously de- scribed and the reason is that a great- er speed of the beater puts in neps, which, as every one knows, is the one thing to be most feared, because dirt can be taken out, but it is almost im- possible to take out neps. To be sure, a greater portion of them are taken out, but it means mu^ih extra work and care to do it, so it is always best to see that none are put in. The beats per inch given to the cotton as it is passing through the finisher picker are 29. The total weight of the finished lap is 28 pounds or a 9% -ounce lap. These laps are put up AT THE CARD. The settings used for this card should be close, a 12-l,000ths-inch gauge be- ing used to set the flats from the cylin- der aad a 5-l,000ths-inch gauge to set the doffer from the cylinder. The wire fillet used should be No. 34s for cylin- der and 3Gs for doffer and flats. The card should have as many working as possible and the speed should be one complete revolution every 35 minutes. The draft of the card should never be less than 130 and some overseers in- crease this to 175 or ISO on this class of work. The stripping should be done three times a day and grinding as usual. The card should be kept unusually fi'ee from fly and dirt and should produce from 250 to 300 pounds per week of 60 hours. The weight of the sliver should be 40 grains per yard. Another part of the machine that is changed differently from all other stock is the speed of the licker- in. This should be a great deal less than that used for other stocks for the same reason as given for the low speed of the beater. The speed of the licker- in should be dropped from 350 to 40C revolutions per minute (the usual speed) to about 275 revolutions per minute. The card sliver is next combed. The different COMBING PROCESSES vary, but those in most general use are as follows: sliver lap maciiine, ribbon lap machine and comber. The width of the lap is another part tliat has also been changed so that now it is 101/2 inches, whereas formerly an 8%-inch lap was almost universal. The following particulars will be given for an 8%-inch lap; when a 10%-inch lap is used the proper weights may be calculated by proportion: The dou- blings at the sliver lap are 14 for an S%-inch lap and 20 for a 10y2-inch lap. The weight of a yard of lap at the front is 280 grains. These are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled C into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this machine is 265 grains. The laps are put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads that the comber con- tains; formerly it was the custom to have six heads, but within the last few years a comber of eight heads is used. The PERCENTAGE OP WASTE taken out should he not less than 20 for this class of stock and the trim- mings and settings should be as fol- lows: Combing starts at 5. Nippers open at 31/2, close at 914. Lifters down at 6% and up at 8% to 914. Top combs down at 5. Feed roll commences to move forward at 51/2. The start of the feed roll to a certain degree controls the percentage of waste taken out and is the part that is changed after the settings of the comber have been made. A later feeding means an increased amount of waste. The detaching roll moves forward at 5%. There is a great deal of difference in settings, of the top combs to segment and cushion plate to needles or cylinder, among comb- er men, but good settings even for this grade of stock are with an 18 gauge from cushion plate to half lap and a 21 gauge from top comb to segment. Either a double or single row of needles in top comb may be used, both having their advantages and disad- vantaaes. The weight of the sliver should be about 35 grains per yard. The sliver is next put through two pi"o cesses of DRAWING FRAMES, the weight of the drawing at the fin- isher drawing being GO gi-ains per vard. Leather covered top rolls are generally used for this stock and should be kept in perfect shape and frequently varnished, as should the leather detaching rolls of the comber 218 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY and the top rolls of the sliver lap and ribbon lap machines. Several good recipes for varnish have been given in previous articles, one of which may be used. The sliver is put through the slubber and made into .80 hank roving. The front top rolls of this machine are generally varnished and some mills use rolls of a larger diame- ter, claiming less licking. The twist put in is the square root of hank be- ing made. The slubber roving is next put through three processes of fly frames, the liank roving at each proc- ess being as follows: First interme- diate, 2.25; at the second intermediate, 5, and at the jack frames, 20 hank. The standard twist per inch is the square root of liank times 1.10 at first and second intermediates and 1.20 at fine or jack frames. Care should be taken to see that the roving is properly laid on the bobbin and that the bobbin, when full, is properly built; also that the settings of the rolls and traverse are correct. This yam is either mule or ring spun. If ring spun the partic- ulars for a frame making 100s yarn are as follofws: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5 inches; speed of spindles, 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yam is then spooled and then is in shape to be twisted with the worst- ed yarn. Dyeing Particulars — Piece Dyeing. LIGHT OLIVE BROWN. One-half par cent anthracene acid brown G; 6 ounces anthracene blue C; 2 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreated with 1 per cent chrome. MEDIUM BROWN. One and one-hjalf per cent anthra- cene chrome brown D; Y2 per cent an- thracene yellorw B N; % per cent an- thracene acid blue D; 2% per cent sul- phuric acid; aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent anthracene acid blue D; % per cent anthracene chrome vio- let B; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with 1/4 per cent chrome. SLATE. One-half per cent anthracene blue C; % per cent anthracene- chrome brown D; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with 1/^ per cent chrome, OLIVE. One and one-half per cent anthra- cene acid brown G; % per cent an- thracene brown; Yz per cent anthra- cene yellow B N; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. DRAB. Six ounces anthracene blue C; % per cent anthracene chrome brown D; 1 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with. 1 per cent chrome. BLACK. Six per cent anthracene chrome black F E; 4 per cent acetic acid; 2 per cent sulphuric acid; aftertreat with 2 per cent chrome. DARK BROWN. One per cent anthracene yellow B N; 3 per cent aithracen© chrome brown D; lYz per cent anthracene acid blue D; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; 2% per cent chrome. DARK GREEN Three per cent anthracene yellow B N; 1 per cent anthracene chrome brown D; 3 per cent anthracene blue C; 3 per cent sulphuric acid; after- treat with 3 per cent chrome. COTTON CASSIMERE. Cassimere was originally understood to mean a woolen cloth used for men's wear. This fabric differs from cash- mere in so far as the latter is finer and used principally for ladies' dress goods. Cashmeres are usually in solid colors only, and were originally made in Cashmere and neiar-euffla(fiUtbntijDBOBUBGBaBnBaBOBDB SaaDffiafflDSaeDEDfflDfflUBuBurjDBBBaLjDBBBljQn nffla!aD!3a'aDaa=aafflGaDfflnBaBuBaBDBDBnBDBDB fflDsasaiSDsaanfflaaaffinBDBDaDBDBDBaBDBnBa De!nffln.BntaGaUtBUaDfflDfflDnUBBBGDnBBBDDDBBB fflQtaasDfflGHafflafflGBafflaBUBnBuBGBuBGaGBGBa GfflGSGiSGSjQSaanfflGfflafflLBijBaBGBGBuBGBDIiLB ffl BDfflGSafflDfflaaGaGEaCBBaiGuDBBBGaGBBBGCG nfflGfflafflGffiGSjGfflaHGfflLii-GiiaBGBaBGBGBaBaBGB SaaGaGfflGfBGaaaGKHGtaQilGBGBGBDBaB^BaBGaG naaaGaafflGfflGaaaaa^ujaDGBBBaDDBBBGGGBBi* aaaaaGaGaGaGaafflGaGBGBGB^BDBDBDB dgbg nsasDfflaBafflaaGaafflGaGHaBGBGBOBaBGBaBGB fflQfflGgnaGaGfflGfflaaafflaBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBCGa GaafflaaGaGaGanaaanaQBGBDBaBDBGBGBDBaB BaHGBJ.BaBGBaBaBaBaaaaGBGfflt]BaaaaDBQ»a DQGBUBGGaBBBaGnBBBGBraGfflaBGBGfflaaGfflna BGBGBGBGBaBGBGBnBaBDfflnPPGaGaDfflnfflGBDag GB '■GBGBDBGBGBGBDBgBiagBnggBgaGagBGB gbgbQbgbgbgbgbgi bgbgbgbgbgbgbhbc BaBGaGBriBaBaBQiGBaBaBDaaaafflaaaBDaDaD GBGBGBGBGBaBGBaBGBGaGBnaGaGaQagBgaga BBBGG ■BaGGaBBBnGGanfflGfflDBDBDanagaGan GBGB -BGBaBGBDBaBDBaaDaaaGacBaaGffgagffl BGBGBGKGBaBaBGB-'BGaGaaaGaaaDaaagaDeD aGGBBBaGDBBB-^anBBaaaQananfflafflgagfflDSGffl BDBGBGBGBGBaBaBGBDfflnanaafflGEGanffiDffiGag GBGB BGBGBr BaBaBaBDaafflnfflnfflDffinBDfflgBGpa BBBGaGBBBGGaBBBGaDaaanaDaGfflDaDBGagaD GBDBaBGBDBGBaBCBGBnaGaDfflafflafflDaaDfflDffiGB Fig. 5. Knowles dobby or Ingham patent harness motion loom. FINISHING. These fabrlios are sometimes given a dry finish, depending chiefly upon the weave and pattern. In some quali- ties in which only one color warp and filling is used, the fabric is bleached, 232 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. hot pressed, then made up into rolls ready for shipment. When two or more colors are used, the fabric in most cases is boiled off, then subjected to a light sizing, pressed, and then made up into rolls. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which mock lenos are composed are made up in mills of the second division as given in a previous article. These yarns may be either combed or just carded, according to the grade of the fabric to be made. For the fabric under description in this article we will consider the fill- ing yarn to be combed and the warp yarn to be carded. The filling yarn is made from an American cotton of 1 5- 16-inch staple, while the warp yarn is made out of cotton of 1%,-inch, the cotton used for both purposes being of a good grade. Both cottons are generally mixed by hand, being kept in separate bins, of course. The mixings should be as large as possible, aannfflBnBnnBnBfflDDDDSDfflDfflnsafflDffiDfflnfflDB nnaafflDBDHBDBnEBnDDnnfflnfflnfflnfflDfflnffinBDffln DanaQBDBaDBDBDCDnnfflUfflnffiDBnfflnffOfflnfflnffl nanDsaBaBBaBDSDDDDDffinEnfflnBBDBDfflDfflnEan nanaDBnBanBDBnDaanfflnfflafflDEBDfflDffiDfflnfflns DnnDSDBDBBOBDEBnDDnDEIQffiCEBDEnfflafflnenfflD nnDDfflBDBnnBDBfflDnnafflDfflnffiDEBDEEDfflDBnfflDffl ■aBDfflnBaBBOBnffiDBnBDEBnfflnfflDfflDfflDffiDaDfflD □■nBfflDnnDnDnDfflBDBDfflnfflQfflnsnEBaffiDfflDEBQffl ■□■DEanannnnnnEBDBDBDEHafflDfflnBUEHGEBDEanfflD OBDBaDnDnDDaDDBnBafflDBnfflDfflDEDffiDEHDfflDffl ■DBn£SDDnnLinDDffln«n«affinfflnfflDfflnfflnBDffiDffln DBaBDDDDDDDDDnHaBnfflnfflOfflnfflDfflafflnfflaBnffl ■DBnfflannDnnDDfflDBOBDEBDfflnfflDfflnEBDfflDeBDffln DBDBBDnnnnoDnfflBnBnfflnfflnsaffinfflnfflQBDfflaffl ■DBaBCBaaBDHaBDBDaDBaBDBaBDfflGBOBDBir onDDnnnaa ^ BBBBBBBBB • Skip one dent Fig-. 6. each batch being calculated to last av least a week. A GOOD PLAN to follow is to have a batch of the same stock always on hand drying out while one is being used. This insures a dry and fluffy cotton being mixed. At the mixing bins the good sliver waste from all machines up to the slubber is mixed in. This waste should be spread throughout the entire mix- ing and not, as is sometimes done, piled up in one place and fed to the, opener all at once. The mixing is put through an opener and three processes of picking. Follow the rules that have been given in previous articles in connection with the opener. At the breaker picker the beater used is gen- erally of a two-bladed, so-called rigid type and for both stocks makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. See that the beater is properly set to the feed rolls and that the grid and grate bars are properly spaced so that they will al- low all foreign matter to drop through. Look out for all THE DRAFTS to see that they are properly directea to the best advantage to make a good, clean, even lap that does not split. The weight of the lap at the front of the breaker picker is 40 pounds. At the intermediate picker the speed of the beater (two bladed) is 1,450 revo- lutions per m>inute, and the total weight of the lap is 37 pounds or a 12- ounce lap for the 1 5-16-inch stock and a 10-ounce lap for the 1%-inch stock. These laps are doubled four into one at the finisher picker. On this picker the speed of the beater is also 1,45(> revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is 35 pounds for the 1 5-lC-inch stock and 39 pounds for the l^^-inch stock, or a 13-ounce lap for the longer stock and a 141/^-ounce lap for the shorter staple. The laps are put up at the card and the draft of the card for the warp yarn is not more than 95. The speed of the licker-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute. The top flats make one complete revolution every 50 minutes. The sliver weighs 65 grains per yard and the production for a week of 60 hours is 750 pounds. For the filling yarn the draft of the card should not be less than 110. The top flats make one complete revolution every 35 minutes, the speed of the licker-in being 300 revolutions per min- ute. The weight of tne sliver is 5b grains per yard and the production 550 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The counts of the wirefilletused for all parts would be similar for carding both staples of cotton or 110s for cyl- inder and 120s for doffer and top flats. Strip three times a day and grind at least once a month. Always gauge the setting points after grinding and set to high places. Use THE SETTINGS given in a previous article on "Bed- spreads." The sliver for the warp yarn is put through three processes of drawings, the doub- lings being 6 into 1, the speed of the front roll being 350 revolutions per minute at each process. A good weight for the sliver at the different process- es is as follows: 77 grains at front of breaker, 76 grains at front of middle and 70 grains at front of finisher. Either metallic or leather covered top rolls may be used on this stock. Ei- ther one used will give good results it properly cared for. If leather-covered rolls are used, use one of the recipes A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. given in a previous article and don't use rolls that are not in perfect con- dition. If the damage is in the cover- ing, send it to be recovered and always examine the returned rolls to see that they are level and have the right grade of sliver covering. Look out for all the knoick-off moti'ons tO' see that they are in perfect working order; for remember, that one of the two du- ties of a drawing frame is to even the sliver, and if the knock-off motions do not work they will allow single to go through, which is a serious fault that is not corrected while passing throug'h the slubber where the end is put through single. The drawing sliver is put through the slubber and drawn into .60 hank roving. From here it passes through two processes of FLY FRAMES, the hank roving at the firsit in- termediate being 2 for the 30s, and 21/^ for the 40s yarn; at the second inter- mediate the hank roviing is 6 for the 30s and 8.50 for the 40s yarn. Theisie rovings are then spun on, a ring frame inito 30iS and 40s yarn. For 30s yarn the frame, to get best results, should be fitted as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of spindle, 1% inches; length of traverse, 6% inches; twist per inch, 26.02,an!d spimdle speed, 9,800 revolutions per minute. For 40s yam use a 2%-inch gauged frame, a 1%-inch diameter ring; 6%-inch trav- erse, 28. 4G twist per inch and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarns are spooled and twisited, 3 ends of 30s being twisted itogether, and then 2 ends of the 3-30s twisted with 1 end of the 40s yarn. The yarns are then warped and slashed. The card sliver for the filling yarn is generally put through a sliver lap, ribbon lap and then a comber. At the sliver lap the doublings are 14 into 1, the weight of a yard of lap' bieling 280 grains per yard. These are doubled at the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. The weight of the laps at the front of this machine is 265 grains per yard. These laps are' put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads on the --comber, either six or eight into 1. The particulars given for the sliver and ribbon lap machines are for an 8%-inch lap. AT THE COMBER a percentage of 16 per cent should be taken out of the lap being fed. The settings should be the same as given in a previous article and this is true of the trimmings. As the combers are not equipped with stop-motions, single and double should be looked for, and it is a ge-ieral rule, if two or mure ends break down on the table, to break the sliver entering the can and to re- move all single from can before piec- ing up end again. This rule should be rigidly enforced so as to prevent.as far as possible, single going to the draw- ing frame. Keep the leather detach- ing rolls in perfect condition as to cov- ering and varnish. It is a good plan to varnish all detaching rolls at least once a week. Varnish leather covered rolls in draw box as often as neces- sary. Take percentages of at least six combers a day to see just what they are doing. The comber sliver is put through two processes of drawing. I'he speed of the front roll at each process is 350 revolutions per minute. A good weight for the sliver is 68 grains per yard at the breaker and 75 grains per yard at the finisher. The sliver is then put through the slubber and made in- to .50 hank roving. From here it is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving aJt each proc- ess being as follows: First intermedi- ate 1; second intermediate 3, and fine 12 hank. This roving may be either mule or ring spun. If the latter, use a frame with the following particulars: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; length of traverse, 5% inches; twist per inch, 26.52, and speed of spindle, 8,200 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then taken and conditioned and is ready for weaving. Dyeing Particulars. AMBER. One-half per cent diamine catechine G; 15 per cent Glauber's salt: 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with V2 per cent bichromate of potash; % per cent sulphate of copper. SKY BLUE. One-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; 15 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal soda; aftertreat with % per cent sulphate of copper. LIGHT PEA GREEN. Six ounces diamine sky blue F F; 8 ounces diamine fast yellow F F; 10 pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; aftertreat with 1 per cent sulphate of coipper. PINK. One-half per cent erika pink G; 10 per cent Glauber's salt; 1 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. Four ounces benzo fast black; 1-16 ounce ehrysopheni"e; 5 pounds Glau- ber's s^alt; y^ pound sal soda. 2;;4 A COTTOxX FABRICS GLOSSARY. PEARL. Four ounoes napihthamine black N; •5 poimds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda; aftertreat witli Vz pound bichrome. NAVY. Four per cent naphitbamine blue 2 B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal sodia; aftertreat witli 1 per cent bi- chrome; 1 per cent sulphate copper. NAVY BLUE. Two per cent diaminogene blue B B; 2 per cenjt diaminogene blue N A; 25 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent sal soda. Diazotize: Two and ome-half per cent nitrite soda; 5 per cent sulphuric acid; turn for 15 minutes and rinse. Develop: Dissolve liVz pounds beta naphthol ; 18 pounds sodia lye at 77 de- grees Tw.; 20 gallons boiling water; for 100 pounds yarn add 1% gallons of developing solution, turn for 15 min- utes, rinse and give a good soaping. RED. Six per cent primuline; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; diazo- tize and develop as the navy blue. LIGHT YELLOW. Four ounces chromine G; 5 pounds salt; 1 pound sal soda. GREEN. Three per cent diamine green G; 3 per cent diamine fast yellow A; af- tertreat with 3 per cent bichrome. BLACK. Fifteen per cent Immedial black N N; 1.5 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. FILLING REVERSIBLES. Filling reversibles is a term given to a class of cotton fabrics used exten- sively in the manufacture of dressing sacques, kimonos, bath robes, etc. In cotton warp amd shoddy or woolen filling goods the same principle of con- struction is adopted for goods for honse blankets, rugs, etc. THE RESULT DESIRED is to have a clloth containing two col- ors, each color being in solid blocks or effects, and tO' have onie side the re- verse of the other. In low-price goods this is obtained by a combination of weiave, color and finishing. Fig. 1 illustrates a cloth of this type showing solid blocks of brown and white runningwarp way. Where brown appears on the face, white appears op- posite on the back. In this particular sample the white ibar across the cloth shows white on both sides. Brown shows opposite white at all other places. Fig. 2 illustrates the weave for cloth Fig. 1, being on 80 ends and 96 picks. Sections A correspond to brown sec- tions on the face of the cloth, and sec- tions B, indicated on picks marked White, to the white sections. The weave is really complete on eight picks, the coloring indicating the ex- tent of the pattern. In Fig. 2 the dotsi indicate the face weave, i. e., at these places the filling Fig. 1. which is always considerably coarser than the warp, allmost covers the lat- ter. On account of the large number of picks as compared to warp.the rela- tive sizes of the yarnis and the pecul- iarity of the weave, the filling on the picks indicated by the dots comes to- gether, covering the picks indicated by the crosises. The picks marked In crosses co^me together on the under side of the cloth. In the section 'bracketed and indi- cated as containing 80 picks, the filling is picked two brown and two white al- ternately, making 40 brown picks on the face and 40 wihite picks on the back in sections A and the reverse col- ors in sections B. The fabric is really double in the filling and single in the warp. Sections A form a left-hand twill on A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 233 the face and a right-hand twill on the back; sections B rice versa. The construction of the fabric under nsideratio'n is 42 ends and 62 (31 face and 31 back) picks per inch finish- ed. The warp is 15s and the filling 714s. The latter contains very little twisit. The warp is all white. The filling is two brown and twoi white for ■^-:S^ m tm 80 picks, 16 white; total, 96 picks per pattern. The width is 27 inches fin- ished. The harness draft requires eight harneisises, four for sections A and four for sections B, in addition to two for selvedges. Reed 2 or 4 ends per dent. The chain draft is shown in Fig. 3. The box chain would be re- quired to be built for 96 picks, and a loom with a repeater or multiplier motion would be the best to use. LOOM REQUIRED. The simpler types of tilling reversi- bles can be woven readily on any ordi- nary dobiby loom arranged with a two by one box motion. As the warp is hidden entirely after finishing, one warp only is required. On account of the coarseness of the filling,Iarge shut- tles are necesisary. For rugs a jac- quard head is usually used. FINISHING. Practically all the finishing these goods receive is in raising the fibre to form a nap. This nap entirely oblit- erates the Wieave effect. The soft- twisted filling is readily raised by the card wire of the cotton raising ma- chines. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills that make the yarns of which filling reversibles are made, will be found in the first and sec- ond division of mills as given in a pre- vious article. The filling yarn is slack twisted and for the fabric to be de- scribed is a number 7% yarn. This is made from various stocks; some- times only straight cotton is used, but more generally it is composed of a □■nnaHDBH ■aBDDDHBaa aBaBnaoaaa BaBBBaaaDD aBDBnDBBDB BaaDBDBDBB naaBBBDDaB BaBDBBDDBa Fig. 3. certain percentage of waste, sometimes as high as 60 per cent waste being used. THE WASTE used also differs, some using card waste, some comber and some both. It is generally safe to say if waste is used that it will be card waste, for the mills making this class of goods are not generally equipped with combers. The stock with which the waste is mixed is of from % to 1 inch staple, according to the quality of the fabric required.. A fine average staple to take is one of %-inch length. The mixing would be done by hand and it is al- most needless to state that large mix- ings should always be made for va- rious reasons that have been given previously. The stock of which the warp yarn is made is % to 1 inch in length, generally the former length be- ing used. While the stock for this yarn is sometimes mixed with waste, THE PERCENTAGE of waste does not run as high as that used for the filling stock. The stock 23ti A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. is put through three processes of pick- ing, before which it passes through an opener. Keep the hopper of this open- er well filled with cotton so that the fitting or spiked apron will always have a full load. The beaters generally- used for the pickers for this class of goods are of the two-bladed rigid type and the speed of that in the breaker picker should be about 1,550 revolu- tions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front should be 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap. These laps are doubled four into one at the interme- diate picker. The speed of this beat- er for both warp and filling yarns is 1,500 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front of this picker is 38 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. These laps are doubled at the back of the finisher picker four into one. The speed of this beater is 1,500 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through about 43 beats per inch. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 39 pounds or a 14%- ounce lap. A variation of one-half pound either side of standard weight for lap is allowed. Those having more of a variation than this are put at the back of the finisher picker and run over again, although care should be taken not to run two of these laps at the same time, for this would be more than apt to throw the weight of the lap being made out. Look out for the direction of the air currents and see that an EVEN AND UNIFORM LAP is being made at the front. Do not fool with the lap weight adjustments too much, for toio much is worse than not enough, for the former will keep the weight of the lap jumping ail around, whereas the latter is more apt to get the same weight of laps. These laps are put up at the card where the draft should not be more than 90. The settings of the card used should be the sa.me as those given in connection with the ar- ticle on indigo prints, except that of the feed plate to the licker- in. which should be set just a trifle farther, longer than the length of the staple. The flats and doffer should be covered with No. 34s wire and the cyl- inder No. 32s wire fillet. The speed of the licker should be 350 revolutions per minute, while the flats should make one complete revolution every 55 min- utes. The cards should be stripped at least THREE TIMES A DAY and an extra stripping would greatly improve the yarn, but is not generally done. The weight of the sliver is 65 grains per yard and the production is 975 to 1,050 pounds per week of 6^ hours. This sliver is next put through twO' processes of drawing where the doublings are 6 into 1. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolutions per minute for each stock, the draft of the breaker frame is 5.25, the weight of the sliver being 72 grains. The draft at the finisher is 5.60, the weight of the drawing- being 72 graiins per yard. For this! class of work either leather covered or metallic top rolls may be used. But the metallic top rollsare con- sidered by miany to have a great many advantages, one of the principal ones being that more production is turned out with the same speed of roll. No matter which top roll is used,, they should be waltcheid carefully to see that they are in perfect condition FOR MAKING GOOD WORK. It is also a good policy to watch the sitop-motlions, for it is these, if they are not in propei' working order, that cause single to be* made. The sliver for the filling yarn is made into .40 hank slubber roving, while that for the warp yarn is made into .50- hank roving. Thie filling yarn is put through one more process of fly framea and made into 1 hank roving, which is taken to the mule room and spun into- 71/^s, having a 2.80 twist per inch. The slubber yarn for the warp yarn is put through two processes of fly frames, at the first being made imto 1 hank and at the second into 3% hank. This yarn is then taken to the ring spinning- room and spun into 15s on a frame having a 3-inch gauge; 2%-inch diam- eter rinig; 7-5n-ch traverse, 18 turns per twist and a spindle' speed of 9,200' revolutions per minute. This yarn is then spooled, warped and then put through a slasiher. Dyeing Particulars. HAVANNA BROWN. Three per cent immedial brown R R; 3 per cent immedial cutch O; 6 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; 3 per cent soda ash. NAVY BLUE. Eight per ce^nt pyrol navy blue; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. BOTTLE GREEN. Ten per cent pyrol green B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. PEARL. One-half per cent immedial black A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. N R T; 5 per cent salt; 1 per cent so- dium suilphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per cent tetrazo brilliant blue 6 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. RED. Five per cent primuline Y; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. Diazotize: 2% per cent nitrite soda; 5 per cent spirits salt. Develop: 2 per cent beta naphtliol; 2 per cent soda ash. SLATE. One per cent immedial black N B; ^ per cent iramedial direct blue B; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent soda ash; 2 per cent sulphide soda. ECRU. One-half iper cent immedial yellow D; Vz per cent immedial cutch G; 1 per cent sulpihide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. BROWN. Eight per cent katigen brown V; 2 per cent katigeti yellow G G; 10 per cent soidium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. HELIOTROPE. Eig'ht per cent thiogene violet B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. PINK. One per cent erika pink; 3 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. DHOOTIES. Dhootie cloths are a class of fabrics used very extensively in Zanzibar, Af- rica, Egypt and India, for scarfs, tur- bans, and girdle or body cloths. They vary in width from 18 inches to 50 inches, and in length from two to six yards. The cut lengths vary from 12 to 40 yards. They are distinguished by gaudy, highly colored borders, running lengthwise, and headings running across the piece between which both warp and filling yarns are of gray, white or other light coloi-. Both sides of the cloth are similar, the fabric be- ing reversible. The borders length- wise range from about one-half inch to four inches in width. THE REAL DHOOTIE is a native eastern hand-woven fabric, in which the colored filling interlaces only with the border warp yarns. To weave such a fabric the services of three persons are required, one to take care of the centre and one for each of the borders. It is practically the only article of apparel used by many of the poorer classes in the eastern countries. Referring to these goods an Indian textile journal states that the follow- ing are standard sizes: 22 inches to 23 inches wide, 2 yards long; 24 inches tOi 25 inches wide, 2% yards long; 26 inches to 28 inches wide, 3 yards long; 29 inches to 32 inches wide, 3% yards long; 29 iniches and upwards wide, 4 tO' 5 yards long. THE YARNS employed vary from 30s to 40s in the warp, and from 36s to 60s in the filling. A great many of the goods are made with 34s warp and 40s filling in the centre of the goods, the borders being aJbout 2-50S and 2-60s. Although not usually the case, they are sometimes made with several col- ored stripes in the width of the piece, in addition to. tlhose forming the bor- ders. The cross borders, or headings, are sometimes very elaborate, varying in length up to about 20 inches. In the longer types these headings are in- serted every few inches, whereas in the shorter types they are woven only at the beginning and end of each scarf. The BORDERS AND HEADINGS are intended to be made so that the colors of which they are composed will appear as prominent or solid as possible. To accomplish this on the side borders the method usually adopted is to arrange the colors in the warp yarns, and crowd them in the reed so that they will cover the filling as nearly .as possible. In this class of dhooties the filling is of the same color as the warp of the centre of the goods. This filling necessarily shows to a greater or less degree in the borders and is regarded as an objectionable feature. When weaving the better grades of goods, those nearly approaching in appearance the native hand-made goods, another method is adopted to make the prevailing color in the bor- ders, usually red, as bright as possi- ble. They are made on a loom con- taining three shuttles, one of which ig a fly shuttle and carries the filling for 238 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. the centres of the cloth; the other two are small sihuittles, made to work on on© of the poisitive motion principles, as on narrow ware looms. These two shuttles WORK ON OPPOSITE SIDES of the loom and interweave only with the warp yarns constituting the bor- ders. The small shuttles cross the ends at the same time as the fly shut- tle, so that the amount of production is not affected either way by tlhem. Three filling forks ai-e used, one for each shuttle, so that if any of the fill- ings break, the loom isi stopped in- stantly. The border shuttles run in a differ- ent plane, and move in the opposite direction to the fly shuttle, so that only one pick of fillimg passes in front of the filling forks on the pick required to actuate the stop-motion. Catch threads are used to connect the bor- ders and centres. LOOM REQUIRED. For plain dhooties, in which the borders as well as the centres weave plain, an ordinary single box loom is used,unless cross borders are required, when a box motion beicomes neces- sary. In England, where these goods are extensively manufactured, side cam, revolving box looms are usually used. For the better grades, where the borders are interlaced with colored and the centres usually with white or gray filling, a loom of a special type, previously referred to as having posi- tively acting and fly shuttles, is used. This contains a dobiby or other head motion. Whether for low or high grades, plain or fancy, the border warp yarns are usually run from small rollers or spools, on account of being reeded differently, and are often of different counts from the centre yarns. When the goods are required to be made with colored headings, the box motion of the loom is actuated to in- sert different colors of filling as may be necessary, the loom^ weaving the cross borders, or headings, and centre automatically. If a fringe is desired, it is made in the usual manner. The figure ilustratesi one border and part of the white centre of a cheap dhootie cloth, in which the white fill- ing interlaces with both centre and border. The border is 2 5-16 iniches wide and cointains five colors, red, green, yel- low, white and orange. The outer stripe of red is 1 3-16 inches wide. The count of the centre cloth is 52x46, and is reeded two ends per dent. The fancy weave portion is arranged one end of green and one ead of red, alter- nately, and is reeded five ends per dent. The remainder of the border is reeded four ends per dent. With the exception of the 32 ends working as extra warp the weave of the fabric is plain. Eight white ends working as four divide the border from the centre. The border ends are ply yarns. The centre ends and the fill- ing are single. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which dhooties are made would be manufactured in mills having the equipmient of ma- chinery found in the second division of mills as given in a previous article. The dhootie which is taken for an example will be supposed to be com- poseid of o4s warp and 40s filling for the centre lanid 2-60s for the borders. These yarns are made froim the fol- lowing cottons: The 2-60s is made from 1%-inch American cotton and is combed. The 40s and 34s are made from a 1 3-16-iinch staple American cotton and may be EITHER COMBED OR CARDED. Fo'r this article we will consider tha;t they are carded, but as it is desirable that the yarn shall be as free as pos- sible from neps the speeds and set- tings of the card will be different from those generallly used for this count of carded yarn. All three cottons may be either mixed by hand or by ma- chine; the advantages of machine mix- ing (by means of a bale breaker) have been already previously given. Each mixing should of course be in separate bins and as large as possible, so as to A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 239 cause as little variation as possible in tlie finished yarn. It is also an im- portant point to &&& tliat thei diffe'rent bales are intermixed. The cottons are put through am opemer and three proc- esses of PICKING MACHINERY. The good waste as mixed in with the raw stock as it is ciodlected, but care shDuld be used tO' sicatter the waste, so that it w*!!! be^ eivenly divided all over the mixing. The hopper of the opener sihould be kept full of raw stoiok all the time for reasoins given in previous articles. The coitton sihouild leave the O'penier and be^ delivered on the lattice ajproiL of the breaker in a fluffy state, and if the hoppier has been kept full all the time it will alsoi be fairly even, i. >e., if eac'h yard of cotton passed to the feed roll is wedghed, a great deal of variation will not be founid. The beaters of the pickersused for this class of goodisi are generally of the rig- id two-bladed type, altliough a great many are using the' pin heater. When the latter is used, it does noit require as high a fan speed as the rigid form of beater; this isi du© to^ its wide arms, and as it has three of these, it makes CONSIDERABLY MORE DRAFT than the two-bladed tyipo of beater. The speed of the beater for 1 3-16- inch stock for this class of goods is 1,- 550 revolutions per minute, and for the 1%-inch stock is 1,450 revolutioms per minute. The total weight of lap at the breaker is 40 pounds for all staples or a 16-O'unoei lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of the beater of this machine is 1,475 rev- olutions per minute for 1 3-16-inch stock and 1,425 for 1%-inch stock. The total weight oif the lap is 37% pounds or a 12-ounce lap for 1%-inch stock, and a lO-ounce lap for 1 3-16-inch stock. These laps are put up at the fimisiher picker and doubled asi before, 4 into 1. The speed of this heater is 1,475 revxalutioms per minute for 1 3-16- inch staple, and 1,400 revolutions per minute for 1%-inich staple. The total welight of the lap is 39 pounds for 1 3-16-inch staple stock and 35 pounds for l%-'iniclh staple. A variation of half a pound either side of stand- ard weight is allowed. All finished laps that vary from their standard weig'ht more than th.is are put back and run through the finisher picker again. At this' maohine the cut rov- ing waste isi also mixed in. Sometimes this is done by taking out two laps at the back, the two middle ones, and the cut wastei spread evenly over the space thus made. It is A BETTER METHOD to use a roviag waste picker, as then all the twist is taken out of the rov- ing. After passing through this rov- ing picker the cotton is made into a Lap at the- breaker or intermediate machine and is then put through the finisiher picker, when it is useid as fol- lows: three laps of raw stock to one lap cut roiving waste. The wieight per yard at the front of the finisher picker is as follows: for 1%-inoh stock, 12y2 ounces; for 1 3-16-inich stock, 14 ounces yer yard. The cotton next passes to the card. The cards for all lengths of staples will be set alike for reasoms previously given. Set doffer to cylinder with 5-l,O0Oths-inch gauge. Set under screen as follows: at licker- iii with 12-l,000ths-inch gauge; middle to 34-l,000ths and front % of an, inch. Licker-in to' cylinder vpith 7-l,000ths of an linch. Licker-in screen to lick- er-in, 3-16ths of an inch. Set bottom licker-in knife with SJl.OOOths gauge, top knife to 10-l,000ths of an inch gauge. Set feed plate to licker-in to 7-l,000ths of an inch gauge, and top flats to' 12-l,000tlis of an inch gauge. The speed of the licker-in should be 300 revolutiomis per minute. The flats miake one complete revolution every 40 minutes! for all sitock. The jroduction should be 500 pounds for 2-60s yarn and 600 pounds for the other yarns. Cards should be stripped three times a day and ground at least once a month, when the grdnders should be allowed to stay on at least half a day. The cards S'hould be reset after grinding. Speicial care should be tak- en to see that the top fiats are sharp and are ground evenly and do not have more taken ofC the toe than the heel, as is generally the case un- less great carei is taken. The weight of the sliver is 50 grains per yard for each staple. After passing the card THE PROCESSES of the stocks differ. We will first fol- low the course of the carded staples. These are put through three processes of drawing, the front roll speed at each process being 350 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the front is 70 grains' per yard. Great care should be taken to see that the stop-motions are in per- fect woirkinig order, otherwise a great deal of trouble w^ill result in single and double. At the slubber the sliver is made into .60 han,k roving. This roving is then put through two proices- ses of fly frames. At the first interme- diate it is made into- 2 hank roving and at the second into- 7 hank for the 34s warp and 8 hiauk for 40s filling. 240 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. The card sliver tor titie 2-60s yarn is combed and the general sequence of processes is asi follows: Sliver lap ma- oiMne, where it is douhled 14 into 1 and has a draft of a'bout 2; a yard of lap at the fronit weighing 300 grains per yard for an 8%-inich lap. Six of these laps arei put up at the ribbon lap machine and made intoi a 260 grain lap at the front. Keep top leath- er rolls in good oondition and well vamisihed. Six lapsi from the ribbon lap machine arei put up at the comber, if it is a six-head machine, or eight laps if it is an eight-^head miachine.and the weight of the finisihed sliver is 45 grains per yard. The SPEED OP THIS COMBER is 90 nips per minute, the per cent of waste taken out being 16. Keep the detaching rolls well varnished, recipes for which have beea given in previous articlesi as well as a means for keep- ing the laps of the leather from split- ting. After passing the comber the sliver is put thirough two proceisseis of leather covered top roll drawing frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker anid 6 into 1 at the fin- isher. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard. This is made into .50 hank roving at the slubber and is then put through three processesi of fly frames, the hank roving at each being as follows: First, 1 hank; second, 3i/^ hank, and fine frame-, 12 hank. This is then taken to the ring spinning room and spun into 60s on a frame with a 1%-inch diame- ter ring, 5-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 8,000 revolu- tions per minute; after which it is doubled intO' 2-60s.. The roving for the 40s filling is spun on a rilng frame having a 1%-inich diameter ring, ^Vz- inch traverse and a spindle speed of 8,800 revolutions per minute, and then spooled and warped anid put through a slasher. The roving for warp is spun into 34s on a warp spinning frame with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 10,200 revolutions per minute, after which it is taken to^ the conditioning room. Dyeing Particulars. BLUB. Three per cent immedial in done B; 2 per cent immedial in done 3 B; 5 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. GREEN. Five per cent immiedial yellow D; 5 per cent immedial indone B; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. RED. Six per cent primuline; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda, rinse; diazo'tize: 2i/^ per cent nitrite soda; rinse; develop: 2 per cent beta naph- thol, rinse and soap ^.t 150 degrees P. YELLOW. Mordant with tannine and tartar emetic, rinse; dye with 3^ per cent thioflavine T and rinse. LIGHT GREEN. Dye yellow with thioflavine T; and dye on top with 2 per cent brilliant green Y; rinse and give a weak soap- ing. ORANGE. Dye with 6 per cent primuline after- treat with 1/^ degree Tw. solution of chloride of lime. LIGHT BROWN. Four per cent thion orange N; 4 per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cenlt so- da ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt; af- tertreat with 2 per cent sulphate of copper. ' MYRTLE GREEN. Eight per cent thion green G; 2 per cent thion yellow G; 2 per cent thion green B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. WINE. Eight per cent thiogene red O; 8 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. BLUE BLACK. Ten per cent immedial brilliant black B; 10 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. UNEQUALLY REEDED STRIPES Under the above heading may be in- cluded an extensive type of cotton fab- rics, variously known as satin or sat- een stripes, doria stripes, etc. They are made in all grades, from medium to fine, and used for many purposes, such as dress fabrics, cur- tain hangings, etc., and are usually shown in all white or solid colors. They are characterized by promi- nent stripe effects which appear to stand up from the ground of the cloth. The raised stripes are produced by crowding more ends in a given space than are contained in an equal space occupied by the ground enids and by weaving them differently. As a rule A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 241 the yarns forming the raised stripes are woven in satin or twill order, warp flush weaves, while those form- ing the ground weave plain. Theoretically, warp endis weaving plain should take up or contract in length faster than ends weaving twill or satin, on account of the greater number of interlacings. This applies to cloths in which each dent cointalns the same numiber of ends throughout the entire width of cloth. It has been found in practice that when weaving a fabric containing sec- tions reeded, say, two ends per dent, and others four or five ends per dent, the yams that are crowded in the reed will contract more than those reeded two ends per dent. For example, a B B nanBDaaB dbbhbb gb bdbb db bbbbbb BDBGBDBa BBBBDB BO BBBD BD BBBBDB DBDBDBaB BBDBBB DB DBBB OB BBDBBB BDBDBDBD BBBBBD BQ BBDB BD BBBBBD DBDBDBDB BDBBBB DB BDBB DB BDBBBB B JBDBDBD BBBDBB BD BBBD BD BBBDBB DBDBDBDB DBBBBB DB DBBB DB DBBBBB BDBDBDBD BBBBDB BD BBDB BD BBBBDB DBDBDBDB BBDBBB DB BDBB DB DBDBBB BDBDBDBD BBBBBD BD BBBD BD BBBBBD DBDBDBDB BDBBBB DB DBBB DB BDBBBB BDBDBDBD BBBDBB BD BBDB BD BBBDBB 6 times 2 times 5 times 2 times Fig 1. warp stripe interlaced in five ends sat- in order and reeded five endsi per dent vrauld contract in length, about as fast as tbe yarn© weaving plain in the same fabric, if tlie latter were of the same counts of yam and reeded two ends per dent. This fact explalins the reason why satin stripe fabrics are usually woven from one beam. A characteristic weave is shown in Fig. 1. The warp lay-out of one repeat of the pattern is as follows: Inds. Dents. Harnesses. 48 24 1 to 6 12 2 7 10 12 2 1 1 and 2 i 4 1 13 to 16 S 5 times. 2 1 1 and 2 12 2 7 to 12 Selvedges on harnesses 1 and I 2. The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. In Fig. 1 sections A weave plain, sec- tions B weave 6 end warp satin, and sections C weave broken crow, warp face. When combining weaves in this manner one of the principal points to consider is to bring the warp float of one section opposite the filling float of the adjoining section, or, as it is termed, they should be made to "cut" each other as well as posisi'ble. When this is done, the stripes have a more distinct and cleaner cut appeai^ance than when it is ignored. The construction data of the sample under consideration are: warp, 45s; filling, 40s Egyptian; finished width, 28 inches; width in reed, 29.9 inches; ends in warp, 2S5G; sley reed, 76. This represents the proportional number of ends per inch in the plain section. Average sley, 102. This in- dicates the average numbeir of ends per inch in the entire width of cloth. Picks per inch, 80. These goods may be woven on a single box dobby loom, the warp yarns being of one count, and one filling only being required. The fabrics are found in many va- riations of patterns and qualities, and are subjected to suitable methods of finishing, according to the use to which they are intended to be put. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The mills that make unequally reed- ed stripes will be found in the second division, and while the count of yarn varies to a great extent for this class of goods, a good average count would be 45s warp yarn and 40s filling. It is not our intention to say much about the- cotton warp yarn otherwise than a few general remarks, i. e., that the yarn is of 1% to 1% inch American sitoek anid carded, the hank rovings being as follows: for the slubber .55 hank, first intermediate, 2.50, and for the fine fly frame 10 hank, and is ring apun into 45s yam. Further partic- ulars for making this count of yarn may be found in previous articles deal- ing with the same length of stock and Top. DBDBDBDBBBBBBDBB BDBDBDBBBBDBBBBD DBDBDBBBDBBBDBBB ■DBDBDBBBBBDBBDB DBDBDBBDBBBBBDBB / BDBDBDBBBDBBBBBD DBDBDBDBBBBBDBBB BDBDBDBBBBDBBBDB "bdbdbbbdbbbbdbb BDBDBDBBBBBDBBBD nBDBDBBDBBBBDBBJ BjBG&DBBBDBBBBDB Fig 2. making counts of yam from 35s to 50s. In this article it is our intention to deal with THE FILLING YARN which is made from Egyptian cotton of 1%-inch staple. On account of its pe- culiar nature E.gj^ptian cotton is es- pecially adapted for filling yarns and it is a general custom to make the filling yarnsi of this kind of cotton, al- though it is not done in all styles of fabrics, and while the fllling yams of fabrics previously described might equally as well have heen made out of Egyptian cotton, still for some special reason the kind of cotton given for filling yarns has been- sele-oted. The Egyptian bale is about 300 pounds heavier than the American bale, so 242 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. that so large a number will not be re- quired in the mixing, which may be done by hand or by the use of a bale breaker. It will also be found that Egyptian cotton is much more easily handled than other kinds of cotton. By this we mean that it gives less trouble to oiperate it at the different processe'S. The mixing should be made in the same manner as descrtibed in previous articles. The cotton for this stock is put through three proc- esses of picking and an- opener. The beater used at each process is gener- ally the two-bladed rigid type. The SPEED OP THE BEATER at the breaker picker is 1,450 revolu- tions per minute; at the intermediate picker 1,375 revolutions per minute, and at the finisher picker 1,200 revo- lutions per minu'te. The total weight of a lap at the breaker picker is 40 pounids or a 20-ounoe lap; at interme- diate picker, 38 pounds^ or a 12-ounce lap, and at the finisher picker, 35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. The in- structions given in previous articles for picking should be followed. At the card the draft for this stock should not be less 'than 120. The flats should make one oompleite revolution every 30 minutes, and the speed of the lick- er-in should be about 300 revolutions per minute. The weight of the sliver at the fronit should be 45 grains and the production for a week of 60 hours should be nioit more than 500 pounds. The setting points sihiould be set to the same gauges as- given in last article, while the particulars given for grind- ing, cleaning, stripping and oiling that have already been given for the same length of staple of American stock may be used. Egyptian cotton is eas- ily combed an!d,as one overseer puts it, might be combed with a rake; still considerable care should be given to it to see' that it is properly done. The particulars for sliver lap machine, rib- bon lap machine and six-head comber for an 8%-iinch lap are as follows: Sliver lap machine doubles 14 into 1 and weight per yard of lap is 295 grains; at the ribboni lap machine the doubling is 6 inito 1, the weight per yard being 260 grains; at the' comber ttie dou'blinig ist 6 initO' 1, the weight of the silver is 47 grains. The percentagei of waste taken out at the comber for this stock for fabric named is 16. Use settings and turnings giv- en in a previous article. THE COMBER SLIVER is next put through two processes of drawing, the Vireight per yard at the front being 70 grains per yard with doublings of 6 into 1 at each process. Use either metallic or leather top cov- ered rolls, this stock running equal- ly well on each. At the slubber the sliver is made into .50 hank roving and from here it passes through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing at each being as follows: First intermediate, 1 hank; second interme- diate, 3 hank, and fine frame, 10 hank. The twist gear used at each pi-ooees should be one tooth smaller than that used ft)r the same hank of roving made from American cotton. Watch the rolls, both top and bottom, tO' see that they are properly seit. After leav- ing the fine frame the roving may be either mule or ring spun, sometimes one and sometimes the other being preferred for certain reasons. For this fabric the roving iS' generally ring spun. For spinning 40s filling yarn of 1 5-16-inch staple Egyptian cotton use a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 1%- inch diiamieter rinig, and a S^-inch traversie, and spindle speed of 8,800'- revolutions per minute. Dyeing Particulars. PEARL. Four ounces immedial black N R T; % per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per- cent soda ash; 10 per cent Glauber's. SLATE. One per cent diatmine black B H; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. FAWN. One per cent diamine fast yellow B; 4 ounces diamineral brown G; % ounce diamine brown B; 1 pound sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. SCARLET. Five per cent diamine scarlet B; 2' per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. RED. Four per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's. MYRTLE GREEN. Four per cent benzo green G G; % per cent chrysophenine ; % per cent^ benzo fast bl'ack; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. HELIOTROPE. Two per cent tetrazo lilac B; 2 per- cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glaui)er's. LIGHT BROWN. Two and one-half per cent diamine- brown 3 G; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glauber's. DARK BROWN. Three per cent diamineral brown G; A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 243 % per cent diamine brown M; 1 per oenit diaanlne catecMne B; 2 per cent sal sod'a; 30 per cent Glauber's. NAVY BLUE. Six per cent diamine dark blue B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per ceat Glau- ber'© salt. WINE. Five per cent diamine^ Bordeaux B; Vz per cent diiamime fast red F; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's. PINK. One'iliialf per eenit Erika pink G; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent sialt. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; % per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- ber's. BLACK. Ten per cent im'medial black N N; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per oeint sodium sulphide; 30 per cent Glauber's. STOP PEG CHECKS, The above term is used in cotton mills to indicate a type of fabric ex- tensively made for dress goods and decorative purposes. In the dry goods trade the goods are found under va- rious names. They are an extension of the type of goods, unequally reeded stripes, ex- plained in the last article,and are char- acterized by certain yarns in both warp and filling appearing to stand up from the ground cloth in regular or irregu- lar block effects. They are usually woven white and bleached or dyed as may be required. This article is really supplementary to the last one, the points referred to there applying equally as well here. A check is almost always formed by a crossover effect in the filling in con- nection with a distinguishing stripe in the warp. If the effect warp way is not as prominent or more prominent than the effect filling way, a barry pat- tern is produced, objectionable in al- most all classes of textile fabrics. In stop peg checks the effect warp way is formed by crowding some of the ends and weaving them in a differ- ent manner from the others, as in un- equally reeded stripes. The effect fill- ing way is formed by interlacing the yarns in a certain manner, say plain, for a certain number of picks, then changing the order of interlacing to another weave, say a filling sateen, for a definite number of picks. When weaving the plain section, the take-up motion of the loom works in the ordinary manner, whereas when weaving the filling satin section it Is disconnected, as required, so that more picks will be inserted in a given space. The device used for disconnecting the take-up motion is usually connect- ed to one of the levers of the dobby and called into action by pegs placed in the pattern chain; hence the term, stop peg checks. A friction let-off is preferable to a positive let-off motion for this class of goods. Fig. 1 illustrates an exam- ple of the simpler type, consisting of sections of plain, warp sateen and fill- ing sateen. The analysis of the sam- ple under consideration shows the fol- lowing data: Warp, 60's; filling, 90's; cloth width, 27.5 inches. In the plain sections there are, in proportion, 72 Fig. 1. ends and 72 picks per inch. The av- erage number of ends and picks per inch is 114 each. The warp lay-out for one pattern is as follows: Ends. Dents. 24 12 = 2 ends per dent 30 5 ^ 6 ends per dent 34 12 = 2 ends per dent 30 5 = 6 ends per dent 108 34 One warp only has been used. The harness draft is shown at Fig. u 4 Times. 5 Times. 4 Times. 5 Times. Fig. !. 244 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. The chain draft, exclusive of sel- vedge, is shown in Fig. 3. In this fig- ure marks \ correspond to the plain sections in the cloth; dots corre- spond to the warp satin sections in > f / / t / K a t / 4 / / X ^ O / / //• H ■ ' / / / / X ■ O / / / / / K ■ o / /^ / / 4 11 ■ » / J / / / K ■ -» /// / / -x m *r / / / / / % ^ ///// « O 4 / / i / X 9/ //// X > //'//'/' >( B "///// JC ■ » // /// « ■ / / /// X ■ e / f / 4 / < ■ \ \ \ ••••• •• «• V \ \«**** •••«« \ V \ • •••• •'- • • • • \ \ \«*«« ««••• • N \ V •• •••«• • •* S \ S, •«••• ••««« \ \ «•• ••••• •« ^ «««•« «•••* \ \ s % ••«•« •••• \ V \«*** ••••• • V \ •» •«••« •«• > V \ *•••• ••••• > \ •** ••••• •• ~N -K v«%»«« ••••• » > t «•••• •••• x^ vta«« ••••• • {;: /// / /■ X / / / / / / / / / / / / / / f //// / // /■/ / // /// // / // /// // / / f /r /// / / / //" / / % f / / / / K / /■ f f 4 / // // / // /^ \ \ \« •• ••••• « K ^ \ ••••« ••••• V V ••• ••••» •• \ \ • •••%• ••«« V V v»f*« ♦•••• « \ \ •• ••»•* ••« V V V «•.«%« •«••« \ V •*• *•«•*_♦• V V ^••••» ••♦•• X \ p ••••• *t«« X \ va«** ••••« • \ V at ••••# ««• \ V \ ••#•• ••«•• V V ■•• •«•!• •« I I • • • « • I t, 3 -« S 6 7 fi 4 11 li li 17 la '" IX It- IS r9 Fig. 3. the cloth; circles correspond to the filling satin sections in the cloth; crosses correspond to the filling satin sections in the cloth where the same cross over the ends crowded in the reed, this is a filling satin with two picks in a shed; marks / correspond to the warp satin sections in the cloth where the same cross over the picks forming filling satin with the other- wise plain ends; solid marks indicate stop pegs. The warp satin sections are woven two picks in a shed when the other sections of ends are weaving filling satin. On these picks the take-up mo- tion is out of connection on 20 out of 30 picks, the entire 30 picks occupying only as much space as 10 picks in the plain sections. The positions of the stop pegs can- not always be determined before the cloth is being woven. When a change is made from plain to filling satin it is not necessary to insert stop pegs for a few picks because the picks go in easier in the filling satin sections. LOOM REQUIRED. An ordinary single box dobby loom fixed with device referred to may be used when weaving these goods. One warp only is required. Unequally reeded stripes and stop peg checks may be placed in the novel- ty class, being in demand one season and out of demand the next; also on account of varying considerably in pattern and quality. As such they are usually woven on looms fitted up for weaving from two or more warp beams. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for sitop peg checks are made in mills of the second and third divisions of mills as given in a pre- vious article. The couruts of yam used for this fabric diffeir aooording to tlie quality of the fabric desired, aind for the carding and sipinning particulars we will consider the sajnple to be made up of 60s wajrp and 90s filling yarns. Both of these counts of yarn will be combed, the warp yarn being made from. 1%-inch Allen or peeler cottoin and the filling yarn from either Egyptian of 1%-inich staple or, as is more general, from Seia Island cot- ton of 1%-inch staple. The processes used for the Sea Island cotton will first be described, and as the processes for 1%-inch American cotton have already been described only those points that differ from those already explained will be given. In mixing Sea Island A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 245 cotton a great deal of care sihould he taken to see that all bales put into the miixtur© sitaple the same. At the mixing bins the good sliver and picker waste from the machines up to the slubber mil be mixed in. As SEA. ISLAND COTTON has to be handled as little as poissible, on aooount of tlie ©asewith which neps are put in, geinerally only on© piroioess of picking and an opener is used, al- though some mills use two processes. If only one process Is used, the speed of the beater should be just high enough to beaJt out the dirt, and this varies according to the grade and quality of the raw stock. For a fair average a two-bladed rigid type of beater should make about 1,200 revo^ lutions per minute, wh!ich will give the cotton passing through about 29 bieats or blows per in,ch. The. lattice apron of this machine is measured 0if£ amd marked initO' yard spaces, and tbe cotton as it comes from 'the apron is weighed and spread evenly over this space. The lap at the froinit end weighs 30 pounds or a lO-oumoe lap per yard. A variation of only six ounces either side of standard weight is allowed for this cotton. At the card the sarate care is taken to prevent neps and the speed of certain) narts is changed tO' 'help this result. The speed of the Mcker-in is reduced abouit 50 revolutions per minute from thiat when American cotton is used. The SPEED OF THE FLATS is increased to make one complete revolution every 35 minutes; the flats are also set to a No. 10 giauge in- stead of a No. 12, as coimpared with American cotton. The cylinder and dofBer are only stripped twice a day, but the card wire is always kept sharp and in perfeot condition.. The weight of the sliver at the front is 45 grains per yard and the production for a week of 60 hours should mot be over 400 pounds per week. The sliver is next taken to the sliver lap ma- chine or in some cases a drawing frame is used first and a sliver lap machine afterwards. If tlie former method is used, the weight of the lap should be about 230 grains per yard, the doublings bieing 14 into 1 fbr an 8%-inoh lap. These laps are doubled at the ribbon lap machine 6 Into 1, the weight of the lap at thie front being 220 grains per yard. If a drawing frame is used after the card, the rib- bon lat) machine is not used, and the weight" of lap at the sliver lap ma- chine should be 220 grains per yard. The laps at both the ribbon and sliver lap machine© should be sized once a day. Thie laps are next put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads that it contains, eitb- er six or eight. The percent of waste taken out at this machine for this stock varies according to the overr- seers' ideas, but a good average per- cent is 22. THE WASTE PERCENTAGE should be taken from six difPenent combers every day. Keep the rolls well varnished and other parts well polished and as free from dirt as pos- sible. Watch the piecing and also for single. Keep your setting poinits to gauge and time. The sliver at this machine weighs 35 grains. This sliv- er is put through twO' processes of drawin(g frames, the revolutions per minute of front roll being 320, 'the doublings 6 into 1 at both processes, and the weight of sliver at the flnisih- er being 60 grains per yard. Follow insitructions given for drawing frames in previous articles. The sliver at the drawing frame should be sized 4 times a day.and a variation of only one grain per yard allowed. The drawing sliver is next put up to the slubber and made into .80 hank roving, after wbich it is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at eacE be- ing as follows: First intermediate, 2.25 hank; second, 5 hank, and fine, 18 hanik. At the fine frames the rov- ing is sized once a day. The usual care that has been previously ex- plained should be giiven to all parts of the fly frames, and in a'Sdition the top leather rolls of tbe slubbier should be varnished. It is best, but not al- ways convenient, to have thie slubber rolls used of a little larger diamieter than when other cottons are used. This is on account of the length of the staple, to help prevent "UcMvg." The roving is next spun, either a ring frame or mule being used, generally the latter. If a ring firamei is used, the gauges should be as follows: For 90s yam from this stock, lii^incb diameter ring, 5-inob traverse, 31 turns per inch and a spindlei speed of 7,400. After being conditioned, tbe yam is ready to use. For the warp yarn use the particulars given in the article on dhooties, except that the yarn is not twisted. A good size mixture for slasher is as follows: War ter, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 poundsi; Yorksbire gum, 2 poundsi; white soap, l^^ pounds. 246 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. SUSPENDER WEBBING, Suspender webbing is. as the name implies, used for suspenders. It is of two types, elastic and non-elastic. The non-elastic type is made into s^us- penders in connection with elastic straps connected to the buckles. An advantage claimed for this webbing is that there is no friction on the cloth- ing at the shoulders, the rubber at the front and back, on the part between the buttons and the buckles, taking care of variable tensions caused by the diffeirent movements of the body. Being subjected to hard usage, the By comparing Figs. 1 and 2 it will he seen that the weib is a multiple or com- pound fabric, all face ends being raised when back picks are inserted, all back ends depresised when face picks are inserted, all lubber ends raised on back picks and depressed on face picks, thereby being between the face anid back fabrics. The binders tie the fabrics into one compound fabric. LOOM REQUIRED. Suspender looms are made with more or less attachments according to- requirements. They are capable of running upwards of 40 webs at the same time, so the production of one loom is loonsiiderable. The shuttles,. one for each web in the simpler type,. + 5 5 5 4 4 4 3 3 7 6 5 4 3 .3 2 1 7 G 5 5 4 3 2 ! 7 6 5 4 4 3 2 1 G 5 i 3 3 2 1 7 6 5 5 4 3 2 1 ^ 7 6 5 4 4 3 •2 1 ^7 G 5 5 4 3 3 2 4 5 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 Pig. 1. goods are made firm in the loom, of strong materials. They are of vary- ing grades and qualities. In width they vary from 1 to 1% inches. The analysis of a cotton webbing of a cheap grade shows the following data: warps, 117 ends of 2-40s cotton for face and edges; 50 ends of 2-20s for back; 24 ends of 2-30S' for binders or stitchers; 25 ends of 42 rubber. There are 90 picks of 2-16s filling per inch, finished. As these goods are held tight in the loom on account of the rubber warp, 60 picks per inch only would be put in in the loom, the webbing cointracting 50 per cent in length after being woven. The width of the web is 1 7-16 inches. The full layout is shown in the har- ness draft. Fig. 1, the various warps being drawn as follows: binider ends through harness No. 1, rubber ends through hairneiss No. 2, face and edge ends through harnesses Nos. 3, 4 and 5, and the back ends through har- nesses Nos. 6 and 7. The daggers indicate where* the ends a.re divided by the reed, the entire web occupying 27 dents of a reed containing 17 dents per inch. Each binder end works between two back ends. To add bulk to the fab- ric, coarse ends are sometimes insert- ed in the centre of the cloth; theise are drawn throug'h the siame harnessies as the rubber. The chain draft is shown in Fig. 2. are actuiated on the rack and pinion principile in a positive manner. On some goods, where silk filling is used for figuring purposes, three or foui sihtittles are required for each web. Goodsi like the one under oonsideira- tion would be woven on a posiitively acted side cam loom, actuated by in- terchangeable sectional cams. The cams are 12 picks to the round or re- peat. One shuttle only is required for each web. For more elaborate goods a dobby DBDBDD OBBBBDa BDCBBDO DBBBBBD BDBBODn □BBBBDB BDBnBDa DBBBBBD BDDBBDD DBBBBDB BDBBDDD 1 2 3 4 5 6 T Fig. 2. or jacquard head is used in connec- tion with the car!::.s, thCi latter work- ing the harnesses for the ground, and the head motion aotuating the figuring yarns. Separate warp beams, or spools, are required for each different count of warp yam, for each web. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Like other fabrics that have been already described in these articles, the yarns of which the webbing for suspenders is made vary as to A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 247 count, but in this especial case there is also a wide range of the stock used and also as to whether it shall be carded or carded and combed. The higher grades of webbing are com- posed of the longer stapled cottons, even the longest staple Sea Island cotton being used for the very fine grades, this cotton being of course combed, and from this down to the short stapled carded cotton. The sam- ple that has been taken for this arti- cle is of medium grade and is com- posed of four different counts of yarn, which are as follows: 2-40s warp for face and ends and 2-20s for the back; 2-30s is used for the binder and 2-16S for the filling yarns. The 2-40s and 2-30s yarns would be constructed from the same staple and stock, or American cotton of 1 5-16-inch staple and the 2-20s and 2-16s would be made from peeler cotton of 1%-inch staple. The picking particulars that have been given in previous articles may be used for these counts and staple cottons may be used, the following exceptions being noted. The total weight of the lap at the different processes for the 1 5-16-inch stock is as follows: breaker picker, 40 pounds or a 16- ounce lap; intermediate picker, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap and at the finisher picker 35 pounds or a 12%- ounce lap. For the 1%-inch stock the weights would be as follows: 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap at the break- er, 39 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap at the intermediate and 39 pounds or a 14i/^- ounce lap at the finisher picker. The beater speeds used would be the same for both cottons, i. e., 1,500 revolu- tions per minute at breaker and in- termediate and 1,450 revolutions per minute at the finisher, which gives the cotton passing through the finisher picker about 42 beats or blows per inch. At the card the draft of the 1 5-16-inch stock should be not less than 100 and the speed of the licker-in ^50 revolutions per minute, while the flats, 110, make one complete revolu- tion every 50 minutes. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER should be about 60 grains per yard and the production 750 pounds per week of 60 hours. The draft for the 1%-inch stock should not exceed 95 and the speed of the licker-in is about 375 revolutions per minute, while the flats make a revolution every 55 min- utes. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard and the produc- tion 850 to 900 pounds per week. For -all other particulars, see previous arti- cles. The main point of difference in the setting points would be at the licker-in and feed plate, which should be set to accommodate each staple. The slivers are next put through three processes of drawings, the doublings at each process being 6 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the fin- isher drawing should be 70 grains per yard for both staples and the speed of the front roll 350 revolutions per min- ute. Either metallic or leather cov- ered top rolls may be used, but should favor the metallic rolls for these stocks. The drawings should be sized four times a day, and kept within two grains either side of standard weight. Watch your stop-motions and also the drawing as it is being delivered to see that no cut work is- made, for this causes a lot of trouble in subsequent processes. All drawing as it is delivered in full cans at the fin- isher drawing should be marked with chalk so that it may always be dis- tinguished from other staples, kinds and weights. These slivers are then put through the slubber and made in- to .50 hank roving, after which they are made into the following hank rov- ing at the different processes named: For the 2-40s yarn, first intermediate, 2 hank, and second, 8 hank; for 2-30s yarn, first intermediate, 2 hank, and second, 6 hank; for 2-20s yarn, first intermediate, 1.25 hank, and second, 4 hank; for 2-16s yarn, first intermedi- ate, l.and 3 at the second intermediate. These rovings should be sized once a day, six bobbins being sized from each different hank. WATCH YOUR TWIST to see that you are putting in neither too much nor too little, and also your tension to see that you are not putting too great a strain on the yarn and thus making strained or unevenly drawn roving. The layers per inch are also another important point and for the hank rovings given above a good number is as follows: For the 3 hank, 20 layers per inch; for 4 hank, 25 lay- ers; 6 hank, 33 layers, and for 8 hanks, 38 layers. The top leather rolls should always be kept in good condition and if not should be sent to be recovered. In putting in new rolls always put two new rolls on the same arbor and not, as is sometimes done, one old roll and one new roll. Keep ROLLS WELL OILED and also the spindle stops, which should be oiled at least once a month. The roving is next spun on spinning frames into 40s, 30s, 20s, and 16s, re- spectively. The particulars for these frames, with the exception of the i6s, have been previously given. For spin- 248 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY ning 16s filling use a frame having a 2%-incli gauge, li^-inch diameter ring and a 61/i-incIi traverse with a spindle speed of 7,000 revolutions per minute of the spindles. The yarn is then put through several special processes dif- ferent from the machinery used for regular cloth warp and filling, when it is ready for the suspender loom. INDIAN DIMITY. Dyeing Particulars. SKY BLUE. One per coat diamine sky blue F F; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. PINK. One-hajlf per cent erika pink G; 1 per cent sal soida; 10 per cent Glau- ber's. L.IGHT GREEN. One-half per cent diajmine fast yel- low B; % per cent diamine green G; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent Glau- ber's. YELLOW. One per cent chrysophenime; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. RED. Two per oemt diajminei fast red F; 1 per cent s'al soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. SCARLET. Three per cent 'benzo fast red 4 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; % per cent diamine fast yellow A; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. BROWN. Two per cent diamine brown B; V2 per cent diamine fast yellow A; 2 per cent sal so'da; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine dark blue B; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's. BLACK. Five per cent oxydiamine black N A; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cenit Glauher's; aftertreat with formalde- hyde. BRONZE. Three per cent diamine bronze G; 2 per cent sal so'da; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. ECRU. Two ounces diamine catechine G; V2 pound sal soda; 10 per cent Glauber's. Under the head of dimity ai'e a va- riety of cotton fabi'ics characterized by Btripes and cords, in both warp and filling way of the fabric, but more com- monly the stripes and cords are in the warp only. Dimity originally was understood to mean a stout cotton fabric with raised stripes, cords, crimps or ridges in the warp way of the fabric. These fabrics were further ornamented by being printed in various colors lengthwise of the fabric, in small patterns. This fab- ric was principally used for furniture covering and for like purposes. Under the head of Indian dimity is a class of fabrics somewhat similar to the dimity described above, but made with finer yarn and used principally as a dress fabric. The stripes and cords, however, con- stitute THE CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE of the fabric; the fabric without these stripes and cords would in all respects resemble a fair quality of lawn, batiste or muslin. The cords in an Indian dimity ap- pear in the fabric at regular intervals across the entire width. These cords may be effected by working two or more ends on the same harness or by using a coarser thread than the body of the warp. The cord usually inter- laces with the filling in the same man- ner as the ground; that is, on the plain weave order. In addition to these cords, the fabric, after it is woven, is printed in stripes in the direction of the warp, with high colors. The pat- terns of these stripes are usually con- ventionalized floral figures. These floral stripes may alternate with an ap- propriate geometrical figured stripe. In the latter stripe the colors are usually more subdued, thus producing contrast and variety, a very desirable feature in a dress fabric, especially so in the cheaper grades of printed dress fabrics. Varying the quality of cotton fabrics is such a general practice and is car- ried to such an extent that some fab- rics lose their individuality; a fabric such as an Indian dimity, that has features in addition to its construc- tion, has considerable scope for varia- tion, consequently we find various grades and styles of Indian dimity- some in which the cords are much far- ther apart than in others, or sufficient- ly spaced to allow the stripe to be A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 249 printed between the raised cords, and others in which the cords are very close together, with but two or three ends between each cord. (See weave Fig. 1.) In printed fabrics of this character, where the printed patterns are in the form of a stripe, the cords should not be too prominent, or, if they must be prominent,the printed stripe should be of such a design that the outline is of an indefinite character, so that if any inaccuracy occurs in the printing, that is, if the cloth does not run perfect- ly straight through the printing ma- chine, and the printed stripe interlaces too much with the cord,it appears as if the printed stripe was promiscuously placed on the fabric. The happiest patterns are those in which the ends are not very prominent and the stripe is printed over them at apparently reg- ular intervals. Fig. 2 represents the drawing-in draft; Fig. 3 the reeding plan. ANALYSIS OF FABRIC. Width of warp in reed, 30i/^ inches; aamamoDmnm ■■DBOBBDaa aauDmnamnm maamammama Dnmomaamam uuamammama nnBD«nDBOB BBaBDBBOBQ Fig. 1. nDDnnoDDaB nDDaDDDDBn DDaaaoDBDn nnaoDBBnaD DDDDBDanna nDDBDDnDnn DDBDnnaDDa BBaanaaDDn Fig. 2. BBBDDBBBan ' DDDBBDDOBB Fig. 3. width of fabric finished, 29 inches; ends per inch finished, 94; 1,300x2 reed; ends in warp, 2,724. Dressing: 1-2 E. white In 1 bed. 1 E. wliite. 1 E. white. 1 E. white. 4-6 Take-up of warp during weaving, 8 per cent; warp yarn, 1-80; filling yarn, 1-100. Picks per inch, 76. LOOM REQUIRED. Light-weight cotton fabrics, such as an Indian dimity, may be woven on any light built single box loom. The prin- cipal consideration should be given to the speed of the loom, as fabrics of this class require large production in order to amply compensate the manu- facturers for making them. High-speed Crompton gingham looms would an- swer for weaving this class of goods. FINISHING. The fabric, after it is woven, is bleached, then slightly stiffened by immersing in a light solution of size. The size may be composed of the fol- lowing ingredients: flour, wax and gel- atine. After the sizing the fabric is dried, then slightly sprinkled with water,then run through a rotary press, after which follows the printing proc- ess. The fabric is then again slightly pressed in order to take out the creases which it contracted during the printing; then it is made up into laps or rolls. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns that make up Indian dimity are made in mills of the third division, as given in a previous article. The fabric is generally made from Sea Island cotton of from 1%-inch to 1%- inch staple. The sample under de- scription is composed of 1-lOOs filling yarn and l-80s warp yarn and for this article we will consider both yarns to be made from 1%-inch staple, Florida Sea Island cotton. Particular care should be paid to the mixing of this cotton and all bales not up to grade and staple should not be used. At the mixing bin the good sliver from the machines up to the slubber should be mixed with the raw stock. Too much waste should not be mixed on account of making the lap fleece. As this cot- ton is of a long staple it is very easy to put neps into it, and thus too great a speed of the beater of the picker should not be allowed. The beater should be run just fast enough to take out the dirt. This speed varies, on different stocks of the same length of staple, from 800 to 1,350 revolutions per min- ute. A good average speed of a two- bladed rigid type of beater for the breaker is 1,200 revolutions per min- ute, and for the finisher, 1,025 revolu- tions per minute. This latter speed gives the cotton passing through it about 29 beats or blows per inch. Sea Island cotton is generally put through only two processes of pickers and sometimes does not even pass through an opener, although this is an excep- tion rather than a rule. At the break- er picker the lap at the front end weighs 30 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker, and the total weight of lap at this machine is 29% pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. A variation of one- half pound either side of standard weight is allowed. These laps are put up at the card. The DRAFT OF THIS MACHINE for this stock varies according to the idea of the one in charge, but should not be less than 125. The top flats should be clothed with No. 36s wire 250 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. and should make one complete revolu- tion every 35 minutes. The speed of the licker-in should be less than that used for shorter and coarser cottons and should not exceed 300 revolutions per minute, as it is claimed that this speed is high enough to tear it apart and clean it thoroughly and still not put neps into it. The doffer should be of as large a diameter as possible and should be clothed with No. 36s wire .fillet. The cylinder fillet should be No. 34s. The weight of the sliver should be about 37 grains and the production, per week of 60 hours, 350 pounds. Clean, strip, and grind cards, as has been already stated in previous articles. The sliver is then taken to the sliver lap machine and for an 8%- inch lap is doubled 14 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the front of this machine is 230 grains per yard of lap. Watch your stop-motions on this machine. The laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1, although some mills make a heavier lap at the sliver lap machine, and only •double 5 into 1 at the ribbon lap ma- chine. The weight per yard of lap at the front of this machine is 210 grains. The rolls of the sliver lap machine for this stock are set as follows: Front to middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 2 inches and for the ribbon lap, front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 2 inches. The laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according to the number of heads that the comb- er contains, which we will consider to be 6. The sliver from this machine weighs 35 grains per yard; 25 per cent waste is taken out and the speed of the machine is 90 nips per minute. Use setting and timing previously given for this grade of stock. The cotton is next put through two processes of DRAWING FRAMES, the speed of the front roll being 350 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing be- ing 60 grains per yard. It is an im- portant point to prevent all singles and doubles at this machine and to help make perfect drawing all stop-motions should be in perfect condition. An- other important part to watch is the setting of the rolls. For this stock a good rule is as follows: Front to sec- ond, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 2 inches. These settings may be used at both drawings, altjiough if settings are closed up 1-3,6. of an inch between each roll at the. finisher drawing it will not injure the staple. The top leather rolls of the sliver lap, ribbon lap, comber, and drawing frames should be kept in perfect condi- tion and always well varnished. A stock of new and newly varnished rolls should always be kept on hand and the rolls on the machine examined frequently to see that they are perfect. Good recipes for varnish have been previously given. A part of the ma- chines which it is not a general cus- tom to give much notice to is the clear- ers. Now this is an important part and they should be looked after carefully to see that they are doing their duty properly. This refers to both top and bottom clearers on all machines on which they are used. At the slubber the drawing is made into .80 hank roving. At this machine watch the top rolls, the build of the bobbin, the lay, twist, tension and traverse motion. For this stock the front rolls are generally varnished and if it is in a mill made to run this length of stock the top and bottom front rolls are of a larger diameter so that the stock will not lick up so easily. The roller settings for the slubber are as follows: front to middle, 1 11-16 inches; middle to back, 1% inches. THE SLUBBER ROVING is then put throxigh three more proc- esses of fly frames, the hank roving made at each process being as follows: First intermediate, 2.25; second, 5, and fine, 18 hank for warp yarn and 20 hank for filling yarn. The warp yarn is ring spun on a frame having a 1%- inch diameter ring, 5% -inch traverse, 39.08 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 9,600 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled and warped and then run through a slasher, after which it is drawn in and is then ready to weave. A good slasher size for this yarn is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds. Boil two hours and let stand 10 hours before using. Keep agitator running and keep size almost at a boiling point when sizing,,. The yarn for filling is generally mule spun, after which it is conditioned and then is ready for weaving. Colors for Printing. PALE VIOLET. Prepare ten gallons of printing paste with one pound chrome violet M for printing; 60 pounds gum solution 1:1; two pounds glycerine; 33^4 pounds A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 251 water. Heat to about 160 degrees F., allow to cool, then add 2% pounds formic acid 90 yer cent; 1 pound ace- Jtate chrome, 32 degrees Tw. DEEP VIOLET. For 10 gallons paste, 10 pounds 'Chrome violet M for printing; 50 pounds starch tragacanth 65:1,000; 34 pounds water. Heat to about 160 de- grees F., allow to cool; add 2i/^ pounds formic acid, 90 per cent, 3i/^ pounds acetate of chrome, 32 degrees Tw. BLUE. For 10 gallons paste, 14^^ pounds ■chrome fast blue F R for printing; S^/^ pounds chrome violet M for printing; -45 pounds starch tragacanth thickening; .12 pounds water; heat to about 160 de- grees F.; allow to cool then add three pounds hyraldite A, dissolved in 3^ pounds water; one pound formalde- hyde, 40 per cent; 2y2 pounds formic .acid; 15 pounds acetate of chrome; •Steam through Mather & Piatt. The pieces are then left exposed to the air for several hours, passed through a weak chrome bath, washed, soaped, rinsed and dried. SKY BLUE. Two and one-half ounces alizarine blue S P; 2% pints gum thickening; 1 quart water; i/^ pint acetate chrome 32 degrees TW. Print and steam and 5oap. PEA GREEN. Two pints alizarine green D G paste; 'IV2 gallons tragacanth thickening; 1 gill acetate of chrome 32 degrees Tw.; -2 quarts water. Print, steam and soap. PINK. Four ounces rhodamine 6G; V2 pint Tvater; 1% quart tragacanth thicken- ing; 14 pint acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; % pint acetate chrome, 32 degrees Tw. Print, steam and soap. RED. One pound brilliant Rhoduline red B D; 1 gill glycerine; 2 pints water; 1^ pounds acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 1 gallon gum water, 1:1; 2 pints acetic acid tannic acid solution, 1:1. Print, :Steam one hour, soap. PURPLE. Five ounces methyl violet 2 R; 2^^ •quarts water; 3 pints acetic acid, 9 degrees Tw.; 1% gallons gum water 1:1; 1^^ pints acetic acid, tannic acid solution 1:1. Print, steam one hour, soap. GRENADINE. Grenadine is a fine gauzy dress fab- ric made with various combinations of materials, such as silk and cotton, silk and wool, or cotton and wool, and some of the cheaper grades are made with all cotton yarns. The fabric is plain and loosely woven and invariably ornamented by stripes, sometimes in both warp and filling, but usually in the warp only. These stripes may be of an ordinary satin or uneven sided twill weave. In the bet- ter grades of grenadine the ornamen- tation is more intricate, that is, the figuring is of such a character that it requires a special loom, such as a lappet or swivel loom. If the figuring is to be effected by means of an extra tilling, the swivel loom is used. "With the use of this loom the figuring is in the form of spots or set figures over the entire fabric. The grenadine of which the analysis will follow, is a cotton warp and silk filling fabric, ornamented with a zigzag warp stripe, effected by the lappet attachment to the loom. This method of forming stripes on a fabric was in use prior to the introduc- tion of the swivel loom. The method of operation in this class of weaving consists of passing an independent set of threads through a series of needles set in a frame. This frame is situated between the reed and shuttle race way of the lay. This frame is arranged so as to slide horizontally to and fro. This sliding is regulated by the pattern chain, and the needles are lowered at the proper time, so as to allow the figuring threads to interlace with the ground cloth, by passing the filling over the figuring threads, thereby binding the figuring threads into the ground struc- ture of the fabric. The movements of the needles may be timed so as to inter- weave with the ground cloth at each throw of the shuttle or otherwise, as may be desired. The figuring threads, however, must be on a separate warp beam on account of the difference of take-up during weaving. Diagram, Fig. 1, illustrates the meth- od of interlacing the figuring threads into the ground structure of the fab- ric. This fabric, as mentioned above, is of an openwork texture. The construc- tion, that is, the ends and picks per 252 A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. inch in the ground structure of the fab- ric, should be of such a number as to make the fabric firm enough to fulfill its purposes. As the fabric is used en- tirely for dress goods, it is subjected to considerable wear. In order to retain its characteristic feature, that is, transparency or openness of texture, the ends and picks per inch should be of such a number that in the finished fabric the meshes will be no larger than the diameter of the yarn used in the fabric; otherwise the fabric will not wear satisfactorily. From the above it will be observed that in order to produce a fabric that inch finished, 92. Reed, 42x2; take-up> of ground warp during weaving, 5 per cent; take-up of figuring warp during weaving, 12 times the length of fabric woven; ground warp, l-60s cotton; fig- uring warp, 2-40s mercerized cotton. In the drawing-in, the ground warp GUIs'- is drawn through the heddles in the harness; the figuring warp passes over the harness into the eyes of the needles, the needles being in front of the reed. The figuring warp is not drawn through the reed, but is guidedt entirely by the needles. Filling: 1% dram silk, picks, 90 per inch finished. Fig. 1. is satisfactory in all its aspects, viz., appearance, feel or handle and wearing qualities, absolute accuracy is required in calculating for the construction of such a fabric. Grenadine may be wov- en in the gray, then dyed any color de- sired, or the warp may be dyed in the hank and the filling dyed after it is woven into the fabric. In the better grades these fabrics are usually woven with dyed yarns. The prevailing color for grenadines is solid black. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 30 inches; width of fabric finished, 27.5 inches; ends per inch in reed, 84; ends per Fig. 2 shows ground and figure weave. Fig. 3 ground warp drawing-in draft. LOOMS USED. These fabrics are woven on variousf> looms, various makes of dobby looms, lappet, swivel or jacquard, depending entirely on the character of figure to be woven. The jacquard loom is used when the fabric is to be ornamented by large broken plaids, requiring too- many ends to be conveniently handled on a dobby loom. FINISHING. The finer grade of grenadine requires A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 253 very little attention as regards fin- ishing. After the fabric comes from the loom it is examined for broken threads or picks. The finishing is prac- tically in the weaving. If the fabric is perfect when it comes from the loom, it is run through the rotary press, sub- jected to a little steaming and slight pressure, and then made up into laps ready for the consumer. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn used for the warp in the sample described above 500 revolutions per minute; interme- diate, 1,400 revolutions per minute, and finisher, 1,400 revolutions per minute. The WEIGHTS OF THE LAP for this fabric would be, at the break- er, 40 pounds or a 16-ounce lap, inter- mediate, 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap, and at the finisher, a 38-pound or a 13- ounce lap. For the Sea Island stock there would be an opener and two processes of pickers, the speed of a rigid two-bladed beater being as fol- lows: 1,300 revolutions per minute at Fig. 2. for grenadine are l-60s ground warp and 2-4'Os for figuring warp. The sta- ple cotton used for the ground warp would be about 1% inch for Allen or peeler cotton, while that used for the figuring warp, which is mercerized, would be made from a Sea Island cotton, which is especially adapted for mercerizing purposes, of 1%-inch staple. The 1%- inch peeler cotton would be put through an opener and three processes of pickers, the speed of a two-bladed beater being as follows: Breaker, 1,- breaker and 1,200 revolutions per min- ute at finisher; the weight of the lap would be 34 pounds or a 10-ounce lap at breaker, and at the finisher a 30- pound lap or a lOi/^-ounce lap. For general instructions for mixing and picking, use those that have been pre- viously given. At the card the partic- ulars used for the peeler cotton are: A draft of not less than 110, with a licker-in speed of 300 revolutions per minute, flats (110) making one com- plete revolution every 35 minutes. The speed of the cylinder is 160 revo* ■254 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. lutions per minute The production should be 500 pounds with a 45-grain sliver for 60 hours per week. FOR SEA ISLAND STOCK the draft should not be less than 130. The speed of the licker-in is 275 revolu- tions per minute, flat 1 revolution in 35 minutes, the weight of sliver 40 grains per yard and the production 350 pounds per week. The wire fillet used for both stocks should be 34s for cylin- der and 36s for top flats and doffer. Use comber sliver is next put through two processes of drawing frames, the doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker for peeler and 6 into 1 for Sea Island, while at the breaker the doubling is 6 into 1 for both stocks. If metallic rolls are used they should be spread Vs of an inch farther apart than when leather top rolls are used. Watch the stop-motions. The weight of the drawing sliver at the finisher drawing is 75 grains per yard for the peeler and 60 grains for the Sea Island stock. noannnDBaaaaannBnanananBanDnnanHanDDnaDBDannnaaBnnnnDnnBaDDonnnn DDDnnaBDDaDJanBGDDnnaaBDDDnaaDBJDaaDnnBaaaaDaDBnaannaaBDDnqDDDpD DnaDDHnnnDDaaBDnDnGDnBnnDnDDDBODnaDnnBnnnoaDQBannanDnBaanDnDDDng nDDnBnaDDnDDBDnDDnnDBaaDnaDDBDDnaaanBDnDnnnaBaDaaanaBDDDDgDaDDnn □aDBnaDDDDnBnannnnDBDriDCinanBaDnanDiBnnaDnaaBuaaDaoaBnDaunnDBnDnn □nBaaQannnBaDDDnnDBnDonDGCiBaDDDaaaBanbnDDDiaannamBnQDnnDnBnnDDa nBDDnGnnnBaanoanaBanDaDDDBnnnGDaGBncnannDBaaaaaaaBnangnggBnnnnan BDDnnoanBanaananBGDnnDaaBnoGnGDDBDDDDanaBDnnaGaDBnDDnDDaBnDDanDD Fig. 3. as large a doffer as possible. The set- ting points have been given pre- viously for these stocks. Strip three times a day and grind each card at least a day every month. Both the Sea Island and the peeler cottons for this class of goods are combed and for this article we will suppose that an 8% -inch lap is use. For THE PEELER STOCK the ends are doubled 14 into 1 at the sliver lap machine or, as it is some- times called, the small doubler, the weight per yard of the lap being 300 grains, and at the ribbon lap or large doubler these laps are doubled 6 in- to 1, the weight of the lap being 280 grains per yard. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1. The percentage of waste taken out is 16 and the weight of the sliver is 45 grains per yard. Use settings and timings previously given. For the Sea Island stock the weight at the sliver lap is 220 grains per yard and these laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of the lap being 215 grains per yard. At the comber the doublings are 6 into 1 and the weight of sliver is 35 grains per yard; 20 per cent of waste is taken out and the settings and timings used are tlhe same as those given in the ar- ticle on Indian dimity. VARNISH. Do not use the same varnish for the sliver lap, ribbon lap and draw box rolls and the leather detaching rolls of the comber. For the latter use a varnish that has less glue and a dead finish, while for the former rolls use a roll with a smooth, glossy finish, but use a varnish that does not peal or crack easily. Always keep rolls well var- nished and in good condition. The AT THE SLUBBER the sliver for 60s yarn is made up into .50 hank roving, after which it passes through three processes of fly frames or speeders, being made into the fol- lowing hank roving at each process: 1st intermediate, 1 hank; 2d interme- diate, 3 hank and fine frame, 12 hank. The Sea Island stock is made into .70 hank at the slubber and passes Fig. 4. through two processes of fly frames, where it is made into 2.25 hank roving at 1st intermediate and 8 hank at finisher frame. Use all the precau- tions given in previous lessons as to rolls, etc., and remember that the Sea Island stock REQUIRES LESS TWIST per inch than the peeler. The peeler cotton is made into 60s hank on a warp spinning frame, the particulars of which have been given in a pre- vious article, while the Sea Island is A COTTON FABRIC'S GLOSSARY. made in 40s yarn on a warp frame having a li^-inch diameter ring with a 6-inch traverse and a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute; this is then twisted and put through the mercerizing process, after which it is ready for use. A good slasher sizing for 60s yarn for light-weight cloth is as follows: Water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds, and white soap, 1% pounds. Dyeing Particulars. Dyed in jig machine. BLACK. 8 per cent thion black T G C; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BLUB. 6 per cent thion blue B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Dye and rinse well. Aftertreat with 2 per cent peroxide sodium; 8 per cent sulphate magnesia; 8 per cent acetic acid, 8 degrees Be. Dissolve the sulphate of magnesia first, then put in the peroxide of sodium in small quantities, and enter the goods; work for 20 minutes first; then run the ace- tic acid into the bath, and gradually increase the heat to about 180 degrees F. BROWN. 4 per cent thion brown R; 4 per cent thion brown O; 2 per cent thion orange N; 12 per cent sulphide so- dium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. BRILLIANTE, Brilliante is a cotton fabric of light or medium weight, distinguished by small, detached figures, usually of geo- metrical or simple character, arranged on a plain ground. The figures are formed with the filling, which is soft twisted. The object sought is to cover the warp with the filling as much as pos- sible, both in the ground and figure. It is obtained by using warp yarns con- siderably finer than those used for the filling in the same piece, aided by the slack twist in the filling. The goods are used principally for shirtwaists and dress goods. Fig. 1 illustrates a typical brilliante fabric, the analysis of which shows the following data: 88 sley, 66 picks, 50s warp, 30s filling; finished width, 26% inches. The pattern is complete on 100 ends and 84 picks. The figures are arranged in irregular positions, 8 in a repeat. One of the figures is illustrated in Fig. 2; marks represent filling. Like many other cotton fabrics.goods under this name are made in various Fig. 1. grades, variations in the counts of yarns necessitating corresponding variations in the counts of cloth. A fabric under consideration, shown in Fig. 3, has a filling so coarse, as compared with the warp, that it has the appearance of a poplin ground. This is a dobby pattern, the spots be- ing arranged in a 4-end sateen or brok- en crow order. Each spot is made by the filling covering nine ends on two picks, as in Fig. 4. The float of the naocjDDnBnnDnnonannnDDn nannDaBBBaaDDDannDDL dd aaaaommmmmnanaaacDacnu naaamammummaoaDDoaDDaa aaaaamnmammuaaDDacncaa □aHa::iBaBaaHDDDL odccd DaaaHBOHBaaBaBDDDarcDa ■■aBBaaaaaBaBBBDGDDDcn aaaaBBBflaBBBBBBBDDDacn aaaaaaaBB laaBaaGDcaDDa aaaaaaaBBBaBBBDnDDnDDD naaaBBBBBBBDBDDDPDCaCD aaDnaaBBBBBBDDnBBBDncn DGnaaoBBaBBDDnaBBBBDcn DGDaaaDBBBanDBBBBBBBrn nannaDDGBlUGDBBBBBBBBBn nnDnnDDan dbbbbbbbbjbb DDanDDDDanDaBBBBBBBJBn nnDaanannnnDDBBBBBBBDn nnDnnDaannDDnDBBBBBDDn nnDDDnDDDGnDDnnBBBDrDn GGDancnaaGaaaauDBGccGG Fig. 2. second pick of each alternate spot is moved over two ends. LOOM REQUIRED. Most brilliante patterns necessitate the use of a jacquard head. A machine of 300 or 400 hooks gives ample scope for designs. The goods being of firm structure, with all the ends taking up 256 A COTTON B^ABRICS GLOSSARY. practically evenly, they could be wov- en most economically on a light run- ning single box loom fitted with a double lift, single cylinder jacquard. One warp and one filling only are re- qiiired. There being but little scope for de- veloping other than small designs of this type, on dobby looms, they are made to but little extent on these looms. Experience has taught that Fig. 3. patterns like Fig. 3 require too many harnesses on a dobby loom for weav- ing plain to the best advantage. FINISHING. These goods are usually subjected to the English or French nainsook finish- es, mercerized or printed. By the English finish the fabric, after it leaves the loom, is boiled ofE, then bleached, after which it is softened by immersing in a light solution of glyc- erine, or cocoanut oil, and flour or farina, after which it is dried by pass- ing over heated cylinders, then run through a rotary press with very light pressure. In the French finish, after the fabric is bleached it is stiffened by immersing in a solution of size, com- posed of the following ingredients: flour, wax and gelatine, after which the fabric is dried, then slightly sprinkled with water, then run through the cal- ender, which completes the finishing process. The fabric illustrated in Fig. 1. has undergone the mercerizing process of finishing, having been mercerized in the piece. Brilliante is a type of goods in which the essential qualities of the pattern are improved by the mercer- izing process. When they are printed, the printed patterns are secondary to the weave effects and usually consist of small detached sprig or floral effects ar- ranged a great distance apart. and third divisions as given in a pre- vious lesson. The yarns used in the sample under consideration are 50s for warp and 30s for filling. Both of these yarns are combed and made from the same grade and staple of cotton. The filling is coarser and according to es- tablished rules should be made of a shorter length of staple, and this would be true if it were not for the fact that in order to produce certain effects in the cloth this yarn is required to have a softer twist than that generally em- ployed for this count of yarn. The cot- ton used may be a peeler of 1%-inch staple. THE MIXING would be done as described in previous articles, the good sliver waste from the machines up to the slubber being thrown into the mixing bin. If the equipment of machinery does not in- clude a roving waste machine, a good way to mix the roving waste is as fol- lows: Run the roving waste through a picker, allowing il to run on the floor at the front, and not formed into a lap as is generally done; this is then gathered up and scattered over the mix- ing. This is a very good method, but is not generally used on account of the pickers having all they can do to keep up with the cards. This class of work is put through an opener and three processes of pickers. The pickers, if supplied with a rigid type of beater having two blades, have the following SPEEDS at each process: Breaker picker, 1,500 revolutions per minute; the fan speed 1,400 revolutions per minute; interme- diate picker, 1.450 revolutions per min- ute; fan speed, 1,050 revolutions per Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which brilliante is com- posed ai'e made in mills of the second Fig. 4. minute; finisher picker, 1,450 revolu- tions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 revo- lutions per minute. The weights of the lap at the different processes are as follows, the doubling at each process after the breaker picker being 4 into 1: breaker picker, total weight, 40 pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces; in- termediate picker, 39 pounds or a 12- ounce lap, and finisher picker, 36 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. Of course the laps should be kept of as even a weight as possible, a variation of only 8 ounces either side of the standard weight being allowed at the finisher picker. These laps are put up AT THE CARD and for this fabric the draft should A COTTON FABRiIOS GLOSSARY. 257 Tiot be less than 110. The licker-in speed should he 300 revolutions per minute. Flats should make one com- plete revolution every 38 or 40 min- utes. The weight per yard of the sliver at front is 50 grains per yard and pro- duction for a week of 60 hours is 550 pounds. Set doffer to cylinder to a o-l,000th-inch gauge; licker-in to cylin- der to a 7-l,000th-inch gauge. Set cylin- der screen at licker-in to 12 gauge, at centre to a 34 gauge, and at front, i^, inch. Set back plate to cylinder at 10 gauge at bottom and at 22 at top; licker-in screen to licker-in, 3-16ths inch from licker-in. Set licker-in knives, top Itnife at 12 gauge, bottom knife at 5 gauge; if only one knife, set at 5 gauge. Set feed plate to cylinder ac- ■cording to length of staple. This is AN IMPORTANT POINT many times overlooked by men in charge. The general rule is to set at this point the same for all lengths of staple. This is wrong, because in short- staple cotton the feed plate should be set closer than for long stock. For ex- ample, suppose the feed plate is set to licker-in at 7 gauge for 1%-inch stock and we will say that this gives the distance from bite of feed roll to licker-in 1% inches. Now we change to 1 34-inch Sea Island stock. If we do f not reset the feed plate we are almost sure to break the fibre, and if the cot- ton is stapled at the front of card and compared with the staple at the back, it will be seen that this is what is be- ing done. Of course the proper remedy for this is to get a feed plate with the proper shaped nose for each length of staple, but it is not always possible to do so; the NEXT BEST REMEDY is to set the feed plate farther back or to slow down the speed of your licker- in, so that the fibres will not be struck away from the feed roll so quickly. If the setting at this' point is the same for all staples and gives a variation of i/^-inch length in staple at front and back, note result. If the staple breaks, it is weakened so much. Set top flats to 12 gauge at back and to 10 gauge at other setting points. Set front strip- ping plate to 22 gauge at bottom and at top set from a 7 to a 12 gauge, accord- ing to the strip wante'd. At the sliver lap machine the doub- lings are 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap, the weight of a yard of lap being 295 grains. These are doubled 6 into 1 at ribbon lap, the weight being 275 grains per yard. At the comber these laps are doubled either six or eight into one according to the number of heads. For a 6-head comber the sliver at coil- er should weigh 45 grains per yard; speed of comber, 90 nips per minute; percentage of waste, 15; and draft about 27.50. Use same setting and timing as given in previous articles. At THE DRAWING FRAME two processes are used, the doublings being 6 into 1 at each process. The speed of front roll at each process should be 400 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing should be 70 grains per yard. At the slubber this is made into .60 hank roving and is put through two processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process for the 50s warp being 2.50 at first intermediate, and 10 hank at second process. For the 30s the hank roving at the first intermedi- ate is 2 and at the second process 6 hank. Look out for the points that have been explained in previous arti- cles. At the spinning room the rov- ing for warp yarn is spun into 50s un- der the following conditions: diameter of ring, iy2 inches; length of traverse, 6 inches; twist per inch, 31.80; spin- dle speed, 10,000 revolutions per min- ute. The filling yarn is mule spun, with 2.75 times the square root of count for standard twist. Dyeing Particulars. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B; 25 per cent Glauber's; 3 per cent sal soda. PINK. One-half per cent Erika pink G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. SKY BLUE. One-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; 10 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. PEA GREEN. One per cent diamine sky blue; V2 per cent chrysophenine; 20 per cent Glauber's; 1 per cent sal soda. ECRU. One-half ounce naphtamine brown N; lYz ounces naphtamine yellow N N; 10 pounds salt; 1 per cent sal soda. YELLOW. One per cent direct yellow G cone; 20 per cent salt; 1 per cent sal soda. RED. Three and one-half per cent direct 258 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. scarlet B cone; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. BROWN. Four per cent naphtamine brown R G; 30 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. GREEN. Four per cent diamine green G; % per cent diamine fast yellow B; 25 per cent salt; 3 per cent sal soda. BOOK MUSLIN. Book muslin is a textile term that is somewhat of a misnomer, not having any connection with fabrics used for book coverings. The goods are used very extensively for stiffening and lining clothing and for the foundation work of ladies' hats; they are distin- guished more by the feel or finish than by appearance. They vary in appear- ance from plain weave to small checks. Being made more for utility than ef- fect, fancy weaves are not called for or DBDBDDDDBDHOHBa DHDaaaaaaaaDHBaa aaaaDDDaaaaaaaaa aaiaaaaaaaGaDDOD aaGaaDDDaDaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaDDD DaDaaDDDaaaaaaaa BDaaaaaaaaoaaDDn Fig.l. Fig. 2. DaDaDDDDaaanaaaa aaaDaaaaDanaDDDD Fis.3. □ana anaa aaoa aaaa Dana aaaa nana aaaa Fig. 4 necessary. One of the principal weaves used is a leno, one end crossing one. An analysis of a book muslin sam- ple shows the following data: Finished width, 32 inches; 24s yarn in both warp and filling, 54 ends and 45 picks per inch. The weave is shown in Fig. 1, being on 16 ends and S picks. The general effect is shown by 8 ends and 8 picks, the next 8 ends differing only in the plain weave being reversed. Fig. 2 shows the harness draft and Fig. 3, the reed draft. The warp yarns aver- age 8 ends in 5 dents, there being 16 ends in 10 dents per pattern. The 4 ends working as 1 are drawn through one heddle. The chain draft is shown at Fig. 4, the working of the first two, or selvedge, harnesses being plain. Stop pegs are not required, the S"- picks in 1 shed coming into contact with each other. Another book muslin fabric under consideration contains the same counts of yarns as the other sample. The count of this cloth is 43x38, and the width 35 inches finished. The weave is plain. Book muslins are usually woven. white and piece dyed in solid colors. LOOM REQUIRED. Any of the three classes of weaves mentioned may be woven on single box, fast, light running looms. The sample analyzed would require a dob- by loom. The leno and plain weave samples could be woven best on cam looms. One beam only is required. FINISHING. Before finishing, the goods feel very sleazy. The effect obtained by finish- ing is to change this cloth into a very stiff, board-like fabric. Goods for lin- ings are sized the least; those for stif- fening and millinery purposes are sized heavily. After being woven, the cloth is washed, dyed, dried, sized, dried and folded as desired. No burling, singeing or shearing is required, as perfect cloth is not absolutely essential aijd the glue or size, combined with the pressing, lays the loose fibres. In sizing, the cloth passes through the size box and on to the drying cyl- inders. If a glazed finish is required, it is subjected to pressure by the heat- ed rollers of the calender machine. The sizing substances are usually glue, gum, flour and size, of variable proportions, mixed with water to the desired consistency. The weight of size in a piece will vary from about 5 per cent to 40 per cent of the entire weight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns that make up book mus- lin are made in mills of the first and second divisions. For this class of fab- ric a short-staple medium grade of cotton is used. The general staple is about one inch. In the better quali- ties of this fabric only the raw stock is used in the mixture, but the poorer qualities contain a certain percentage of waste, either comber or card being used according to the quality required. For this article we will consider that the mixture is made up without waste. THE MIXING for this class of cotton should be as large as possible because production is looked to more than quality, but the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 259 quality should be as good as possible. The cotton is put through an opener and three processes of pickers. The speed of the beater of the opener should be 1,050 revolutions per minute, the fan on this machine making 350 revolutions per minute. This opener is generally directly connected to the breaker picker. This picker may be provided with either a pin, or, as it is sometimes called, a carding beater, or a rigid type having either two or three blades. If a two-bladed rigid beater, the speed should be 1,500 revolutions per minute; if a three-bladed beater, the speed should be reduced to 1,000 revolutions per minute. The fan speed should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. The draft of this picker should be about 1.85. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at the front should be, total, 40 pounds; weight per yard, 16 ounces. These laps are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. The beater of this picker, if a two-bladed rigid type, makes 1,450 revolutions per minute with a fan speed of 1,050 revo- lutions per minute and a draft of 2.80. The total weight of lap at the front is 38 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater, if two bladed, should be 1,450 revolutions per minute; fan speed, 1,100 revolutions per minute; draft, 2.80; weight of laps at front, 39 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. The stock passing through this machine with these speeds receives about 41 blows or beats per inch. At the card the speed of the licker-in varies from 300 to 350 revolutions per minute, ac- cording to make of card. The speed of flats is 1 revolution every 45 min- utes (110 flats). THE CARDS should be stripped at least three times a day and the doffer should be stripped an extra time if a very large production is being turned off. Use a coarse wire fillet for both doffer and cylinder for cards on this stock, and use settings given for indi- go prints in a previous article. The draft of the card should not ex- ceed 100 for this' class of goods. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per yard and the production 850 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Grind cards as previously stated. The card sliver is next put through two processes of drawing, the doublings being 6 into 1 at each process. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolu- tions per minute for leather top rolls and 375 for metallic top rolls. Metal- lic top rolls will be found to be AN ADVANTAGE on this class of stock, but should be looked after to see that they are prop- erly set. Generally speaking, metallic rolls should be set 3-16ths of an inch farther apart than leather top covered rolls. If metallic rolls are used, care should be taken to see that they are the same distance apart their entire length, because if they have sprung, cut work will be the result. The flutes of these rolls should be kept clean and the bearings well oiled and clean or bad results will be obtained. The weight of the sliver at the front of both breaker and finisher drawings should be 72 grains per yard. Draw- ings should be sized four times a day. The drawing should be put up to the slubber and made into .50 hank roving and put through two processes of FLY FRAMES. At the first intermediate it is made into 2 hank roving and at the second 5 hank. Of course these hank rovings will depend a great deal on the way a room is balanced and the amount of production to be turned off. Some- times two different stocks of the same length of staple will be run together at the slubber and first intermediate frames that are going to be made into two different counts of yarn. This is often done in rooms where there are not enousrh frames to have each frame run a different stock, so that it may be necessary to alter the draft and hank roving of one or both stocks to the best advantage of each. Thus it will be seen that the hanks and drafts given here may be used as a foundation from which to work, and used if each ma- chine is using this one staple, and grade and kind of cotton. The roving is taken to the spinning frame and made into 24s yarn. At the warp frame use a 2-inch diameter ring, 7- inch traverse, 23.27 twist per inch and 9,400 revolutions per minute spindle speed. For a filling frame use 1%- inch diameter ring, 6i^-inch traverse, 15.9 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 7,600 revolutions per minute. A heavy sizing is used for this class of goods. Dyeing Particulars. Dyed on the jig machine. BLACK. Five per cent oxydiamine black A T; per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. BROWN. Five per cent diamine brown B; 1 2G0 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 per cent sal soda; 23 per cent salt. SLATE. One and one-half per cent diamine black B H; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- low B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt; make up a starch liquor with 10 ounces dextrine; 1 gallon water; mix cold. Add a little color to match shade required, and boil well for one hour. Starch on mangle and dry on the ten- ter frame. MULL. Mull may be defined as a thin, plain woven fabric, of which there are sev- eral varieties, as Swiss, India, starched, China or silk. The China or silk mull is a union fabric, usually with cotton warp and silk filling. This is the finest fabric of the above-mentioned varieties and is used exclusively for dress goods. The Swiss and India mulls are fine, soft-bleached cotton fabrics, principal- ly used for dress goods. THE STARCHED MULL is somewhat coarser than the Swiss or India mull and is used principal- DDnnccnB DDDDCnBD DDDDDBDn DDDDBDDa DDaBDDDD □DBOODDD amaaaaaa ■DDDDDDD □■DBDBaB ■DB mama aBaaanna BOBDaaBD DBaBaBDB BaBDHQaa DaaaDBoa aaaGBDaa Fig. 1. Design. Fig. 2. Draft. ly for stiffening in various parts of a' dress, usually dresses of unwashable material, and is also used as a founda- tion for ladies' silk trimmed hats, cur- tains, etc. Starched mull is a plain, loosely woven fabric and is stiffened in the finishing process by sizing. These various qualities of mull dif- fer in point of texture considerably from one another; the silk mull is in point of texture twice as fine as some grades of cotton mull. The China or silk mull and also the cotton mull used for dress purposes are characterized by their SOFTNESS. This feature is partially brought about by the materials used and partially by the finish which the fabric receives. The silk mull requires less attention in finishing, as the materials used in the construction of the fabric, the silk filling in particular, and the high grade of the cotton warp, are in them- selves conducive to pi'oducing a soft fabric. In the cheaper grades of cotton mull, wherein the coarser counts of yarn are used, the warp yarn must first be well sized so as to withstand the ten- sion and strain incurred during the process of weaving. This sizing, while it strengthens the warp yarn, imparts to the fabric a harsh handle or feel, due to the ingredients used in the size, which may be wheat, flour, farina or sago and a small quantity of softening materials, usually tallow or wax. The softening materials are necessary in order to make the yarn pliable; otherwise it would be inclined to be too brittle to weave readily. Af- ter the fabric is woven and ready for the finisher it is subjected to a WASHING PROCESS, which takes out all the sizing mate- rials in the warp yarn, after which the fabric is subjected to a combination of sizing materials for the sole purpose of softening the fabric. The above process applies more particularly to the all-cotton fabrics. This class of fabrics — mull — requires very little ingenuity on the part of the designer to produce, there being no ornamental features or fancy weaves. The goods are plain woven, depending for their beauty or attractiveness en- tirely on the finishing. Mull made for dress goods is of fine texture, and is finished very soft, while the fabric in- tended for lining or decorative pur- poses is much coarser in texture than the dress fabric, and is stiffened in the finishing and commonly known as starched mull. The goods are usuaJlly WOVEN IN THE GRAY and the bulk of them are finished pure white or bleached, although these fab- rics may be obtained in almost any color desired. The China or silk mull is usually, like the all-cotton fabric, finished un- dyed. In the former case, however, the cotton yarn is bleached in the hank. The silk filling used in this fab- ric is raw silk, viz., tram silk. This is soft and very pliable and lends itself readily to the production of a soft fab- ric. The filaments of raw silk cannot be spun into a thread like wool and cotton, as they have no peculiarities of surface that correspond to the scales on the surface of the wool fibres; the wool fibres, when spun into a thread, are arranged so that these scales are opposed to one another as much as pos- sible and thereby interlock and hold A OOTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 261 fast to one another, and the more the threads are spun, the closer they engage one another and in conse- quence produce a stronger thread. The peculiarities of the cotton fibre are its tvv'ists. The cotton fibre under the mi- croscope appears as a thin flat tube or ribbon, considerably twisted; these twists in the fibres give strength to the thread by interlacing with one an- other somewhat on the order of the scales in the woolen threads. In silk, however, the filaments can only be made into a thread by twisting a num- ber of the filaments into fine threads, and these threads are again twisted un- til a thread of the desired count is ob- tained. Following is an ANALYSIS of a cotton and silk fabric: Width of warp in reed, 2Si/^ inches; width of fabric finished, 27 inches; ends per inch in reed, 76; ends per inch finished, SO; ends in warp including selvedges, 2,200; reed, 1,400x2; warp yarn, l-60s cotton. Filling, one dram silk, tram; 54 picks. ANALYSIS OF STARCHED MULL. Width of warp in reed, 33% inches; width of fabric finished, 30 inches; ends per inch in reed, 36; ends per inch finished, 40; ends in warp includ- ing selvedge, 1,220; reed, 1,300x1; warp l-50s cotton. Filling, l-54s cotton; 36 picks. LOOM REQUIRED. Any ordinary single box loom may be used for weaving this fabric. The speed of the loom is the most impor- tant consideration if the selection of loom be optional; the finer grades of mull are usually woven on eight har- nesses, straight draft, while the coars- er grades are confined to four har- nesses, drawn in the following order: 1, 3, 2, 4. FINISHING. Mull made for dress goods is of a very fine texture and softened in the finishing. This is accomplished by immersing the fabric in a solution of oily matters, the ingredients being composed of a liberal percentage of glycerine or cocoanut oil and a very small quantity of farina. Chloride of magnesium may be used with good re- sults. This is a very powerful soft- ener, as well as a weighting material, and has a great affinity for water, and has the power of attracting moisture to the cloth in which it is used. This attraction of moisture really constitutes the softening effect. The above meth- od of softening applies in particular to all-cotton mull. In the silk filling goods the fabric is usually only boiled off, then run through a rotary press. For stiffening the fabric, the goods, after they are bleached, are im- mersed in a solution of size composed of flour, tallow, and gum arable; this stiffening is done in front of the dry- ing cylinders, the goods running through the sizing trough on to the cylinders, which completes the finish- Bleaching Particulars. Boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic soda in a kier for 12 hours, and run through washing machine. Give a second boil with 4 degrees Tw. caustic soda. Wash through machine and run through solution of chloride of lime at Yz degree Tw. Place in bin for two hours. Pass through a solution of sul- phuric acid Vz degree Tw. Pass through washing machine till all trace of acid is eliminated. Starching Particulars. One gallon: 4 ounces dextrine, 4 ounces cornstarch. Boil for one hour and starch through mangle. Dry on the tenter frame. LINON. Linon, usually termed India linon or India linen, is a fine, closely woven plain fabric well known for its excel- lent wearing and washing qualities. It is made from combed cotton yarns of long-stapled stock. It is made in various widths, from 27 inches to 36 inches, and in slightly varying constructions and qualities. The goods are made to resemble as closely as possible fine linen fabrics. The cloth structure is firmly made in the loom. The analysis of a good quality India linon fabric shows the following data: Ends per inch, 108; picks per inch, 110; finished width, 36 inches; warp, 90s; filling, 110s. Each selvedge con- sists of 16 ends of 2-90s. The yarns v/ere reeded 2 ends per dent in the loom. The selvedges were also reeded 2 ends per dent, i. e., 2-ply yarns. Two of these would be equal to 4 of the single yarns. Woven with about 94 ends per inch in the loom, it will be seen that a very 262 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. fine reed has been used. This was nec- essary in order that an even surface, practically free from reed marks, should result. LOOM REQUIRED. The goods may be woven on a single box plain loom of not too light con- struction. On account of the fairly large number of picks per inch and the fine quality of cloth, a firm, steady take-up motion on the loom is neces- sary. The ends are drawn in' in the regu- ular 1, 3, 2, 4 skip shaft order, on twine harnesses. One warp beam only is required. Practically all fabrics usually woven on cam looms may also be woven on dobby looms, if necessary. To weave the fabric under consid- eration, on a dobby loom, the ends should be drawn in straight on at least 8 harnesses to prevent overcrowding of the heddles. FINISHING. A good finish for these goods is to singe, wash, bleach, size or starch with a light Indian corn or potato starch, the former material being preferable; then calender, dry and make up as re- quired. A second dampening and cal- endering, following the first calender- ing, improves the quality of the finish. Very little stiffening or starch is used because the goods are intended to be washed frequently. "When finished, the goods have the appearance of a smooth linen finished lawn. They are slightly glossy. Carding and Spinning Particulars. . The division of mills that make the yarns that India linon is composed of is the third. This division of mills, as given in a previous article, is the one that makes the finest yarns and is equipped with machinery suitable to do this. India linon is made from a good quality of Sea Island cotton of about 1% to 1% inch staple. For this class of goods it is quality and not quantity that is the main considera- tion. The cotton is mixed as has been described in previous articles, the good sliver being mixed in at this point, as well as laps that are too light and cut sliver waste, if any is made at any of the processes. Some over- seers put cut sliver through the last process again, and let it go at that, but the only proper method to remedy this kind of work is to put it back in- to the mixing. FOR THIS FABRIC the cotuon is put through two proc- esses of pickers, and an opener. The opener should be kept as full as possi- ble so that as even a feed as possible will be obtained. The breaker picker is generally equipped with a two- bladed rigid type of beater, the speed of which is 1,200 revolutions per min- ute. Some overseers prefer a pin beat- er, but others claim that it puts neps into long-staple cotton. This is un- doubtedly due to improper setting as well as not running it at the proper speed. The weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 32 pounds or a 9% -ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker. This picker has a two-bladed beater, whose speed is 1,050 revolutions per minute, or about 29 beats per minute. The speed of this beater should be just high enough to get the dirt out of the cotton and not injure it. The total weight of the lap at the front of the picker is 30 pounds or a 9%-ounce lap. A variation of 6 ounces either side of standard is allowed; if laps weigh out- side of this they are either put through the finisher picker again or if a great deal too light or too heavy they are put back into the mixing again. These laps are put up at the card. The cards used for this stock should be kept free of all dirt, etc., and the card fillet should be kept sharp and parts proper- ly set to each other. The flats should make ONE COMPLETE REVOLUTION every 35 minutes, the licker-in speed should not exceed 280 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the sliver at the front should be 40 grains per yard. It is an important point that the cards should be kept extra clean. The pro- duction of a card for a week of 60 hours should not exceed 275 pounds. The draft should be not less than 130. After passing through the cards, the sliver is generally put through sliver lap, ribbon lap and comber processes. At the sliver lap the doublings for an 8%-inch lap are 14 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this ma- chine is 220 grains. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a yard of sliver at the front of this ma- chine is 210 grains. These are put up at the comber and doubled 6 into 1 if a six-head comber, or 2 into 1, if comb- er is an eight-head comber. Set and time the comber for this stock the same as given in a previous article on Sea Island cotton. Keep all parts of comber that the cotton comes in contact with well polished and free from dirt, if more than one end A COTTDN FABRICS GLOSSARY. 203 Jjreaks on the table the sliver at the front should be broken before entering the coiler and the broken ends pieced up before the sliver is allowed to en- ter can. If any single has entered the can, it should of course be removed and the end properly pieced again; be sure and make a good piecing, not one that will break back at the succeeding process or one that will not draw out. The sliver is then put through three processes of drawing, the doublings of which are all 6 into 1. The weight of the drawing at the front of the finish- er drawing should be 65 grains per yard. For THIS CLASS OF WORK leather top rolls are generally used. These should be kept well oiled and varnished and in perfect order. The drawings should be sized four times a day and the ribbon lap at least once a day. Hook out to see that your stop- motions are all in perfect order and working. Be sure that there are no laps on the third bottom steel roll or in fact on any roll, as this will tend to produce cut sliver as well as throw the size out. Keep drawing on heavy size of standard weight. This sliver is next put up at the slubber and drawn into .80 hank roving. The bottom steel rolls should be a little larger in diam- eter than when used for shorter staple. This is in order to prevent licking. The clearers on the slubber should be picked frequently and not allowed to collect until they drop down and pass into the work. The hank roving at the fly frame is as follows: for filling first intermediate, 2.25 hank; second inter- mediate, 5 hank; fine, 20 hank; for warp yarn,first intermediate,2.25hank; second, 5 hank, and fine, 18 hank; for the selvedge yarn use the same hank roving as for the warp yarn. On this grade of stock the slubber rolls should be varnished and some overseers var- nish the front rolls of their first inter- mediate frame. The leather top rolls should be IN PERFECT CONDITION and special care should be given to the rail or carriage and the parts that operate it to see that they change sharply and that there is no dwell at the top and bottom of the bobbin, for this may cause it to run over or under and make a bad bobbin, or if this does not happen, it will break back at the spinning frame or mule every time it gets to the top or bottom of the bob- bin, thus causing a lot of trouble, be- sides the liability of singles, which should be looked out for at all proc- esses. Full bobbins should never be thrown into the boxes, but should be packed. The roving for filling may be taken to either the mule or spinning room; if the latter, use a frame having a 5-inch traverse, l^-inch diameter ring and a spindle speed of 7,400 revo- lutions per minute. This yarn is then conditioned.then it is ready to use. The warp yarn is frame spun on a frame having a 2%-inch diameter ring; 5-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is put through the spooler and warping processes and from here to the slasher, where sufiicient beams are put up at the back to give the required number of ends at the front. For this class of goods the following size mixture may be used: "Water, 100 gallons; pota- to starch, 70 pounds; tallow, 7 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 3 pounds; white soap, 2 pounds; boil two hours and let stand ten hours. Before using, keep agitator running, and keep size at almost boil- ing point. Dyeing Particulars. PINK. Two ounces diamine fast scarlet 4 B; 1/2 pound sal soda; 20 per cent Glauber's salt. PEARL. Two ounces thion violet black A; 3 ounces thion black T B C; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial indone B B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. LIGHT BLUE. Five per cent immedial sky blue F; 5 per cent sulphide soda; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. ECRU. Four ounces thion brown G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. SAGE GREEN. One per cent thion green G; % per cent thion yellow G; IVa per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BROWN. Eight per cent thion brown G; 2 per cent' thion brown 0; 10 per cent sul- phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's. MYRTLE GREEN. Two per cent thion yellow G; 6 per cent thion green G; 8 per cent sul- 264 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. phide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. SLATE. Four ounces thion black T R; i/^ per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 15 per cent Glauber's salt. TAFFETA SILK LINING OR TAFFETINE. This is a fabric made with a silk warp, cotton, linen or wild silk filling. Taffetine is a term variously used at different times; specifically it is a fine, glossy, closely woven, uncorded and untwilled fabric, used entirely for ladies' wear in the form of a lining, underskirts, etc. Taffetine derives its name from the more costly fabric, taffeta. This fabric is of QUITE ANCIENT ORIGIN, being in use as early as the 16th cen- tury as a dress fabric for both ' men and women. Taffeta of the 16th cen- tury was a thick, costly fabric, made with silk and wool. In the 17th cen- tury the fabric was defined as a soft, thin fabric. In the transition the goods have undergone a complete change of texture and in the 18th cen- tury taffeta was a very lustrous silk fabric, sometimes checked or flowered or 'striped with gold and silver. The taffetine under consideration is a fine, plain-woven fabric with warp threads per inch greatly in excess of filling threads per inch and the warp of a much finer count than the filling. THE FINEST QUiVLITIES of fabrics are made on this basis. The warp yarn for these goods is inva- riably raw silk, technically known as organzine or thrown silk, and the fill- ing may be cotton, linen or artificial silk. The raw silk used for filling in silk fabrics is technically known as tram silk. This is similar to the organzine; the difference lies in the twisting of the filaments. These filaments are put together very loosely with LITTLE OR NO TWIST; consequently, they are not as strong as the more firmly twisted fibres, but sufficiently strong to answer as filling. When the filaments cannot be drawn from the cocoon in one continuous thread, due generally to the cocoon being damaged by the worm in eating Its way out, these cocoons are torn up and the filaments are combed and laid parallel to one another, and the thread made from the damaged cocoons is known as spun silk. The spun silk is not as smooth or as fine as the raw silk thread, although some of the fibres are of considerable length and strong enough to be used for warp threaas. Spun silk is cal- culated by the weight of 1,000-yaid same basis as cotton, namely, 840 yards to 1 hank, or, 840 yards of No. Is equal one pound. Raw silk is cal- culated as to the size of thread, on the hanks in drams avoirdupois; thus, if one hank weighs 1 dram, it is known as 1 dram silk, or 256,000 yards equal 1 pound. THE FILLING for these fabrics is either cotton, lin- en or wild silk. Linen filling is used in the best grades of taffetine; linen yarn is prepared similarly to worsted thread, notwithstanding that linen is a vegetable fibre. The raw flax is first beaten or crushed in order to make it pliable; then it is combed, or passes through the process technically known as scutching. Flax fibres must be of a certain length in order to work properly. If too long, • they are broken in a machine called a saw. After the fibres are combed they are carded and the long fibres are spun in- to linen yarn, while the short fibres are converted into what is known as tow yarn. Taffetine is sold in both narrow and wide widths. The nar- row fabric is usually about 19 inches wide. This narrow fabric is common- ly WOVEN DOUBLE WIDTH, then cut in two after the fabric is woven. In order that the ends may not fray out after the fabric is cut, the goods are made with a fast centre selvedge. In warping, extra ends are allowed just as in an ordinary outside selvedge. In the centre of the warp, these ends are reeded double as is the common prac- tice for reeding selvedges, leaving one or more dents empty where the fab- ric is to be cut. Fast centre selvedges are extensive- ly used in the manufacture of ribbons, scarfs, cheaper grades of cassimeres and, in fact, any fabric characterized by its narrowness. The fast centre selvedge consists of crossing one thread over two or more threads, similarly to the douping of threads in leno weaving. See diagram. Fig. 1. The douning or crossing of threads is effected by an attachment on the back of the loom, directly in the cen- A COTTO'N FABRICS GLOSSARY. 265 tre of the loom if but two pieces are to be woven; tlie threads that are crossed rest stationary in the attach- ment, while the crossing threads cross over from one side to the other at each pick or every two picks as may be de- sired. The crossing thread and the threads over which it crosses must be reeded in the same dent, as in leno weaving. ANALYSIS. Width of warp in reed, 40 inches, double width; width of fabric finished, 19 inches, single width; ends per inch finished, 106; ends per inch in reed, 100. Reed, 50x2; ends in warp, double width, 3,920; outside selvedges, 80; centre selvedges, 80; equals total of 4,080 ends in warp. Take-up during weaving, 10 per cent; warp, 1^/4 dram organzine silk. in the second division of mills as given in a previous article. These mills are equipped with combers. The warp yarn of the fabric under description is silk and the filling yarn is cotton. For this class of fabric two kinds of raw stock may be used, either a medi- um staple Sea Island cotton, or an Egyptian cotton. We will assume that an Egyptian cotton of good grade and of 1%-inch staple is used. As Egyptian cotton is MORE EASILY WORKED American cotton, the speeds at than which the different machines are run are higher, as will be noted by comparing this article with some of the other ar- ticles in which an American cotton of the same grade and length of staple has been described. Egyptian bales of cotton are baled better and compressed more tightly than American bales. Dotted line indicates where fabric is to be cut. Filling, l-50s combed and gassed cotton; 88 picks per inch. LOOM REQUIRED. Plain woven silk warp fabrics may be woven on any light smooth-running loom. The essential consideration is the heddles. For this class of fabrics the French string heddles are consid- ered the best, as they are less liable to break or chafe the warp during the process of weaving in comparison with the ordinary wire heddle. FINISHING. The goods require little in the way of finishing. After the fabric is dyed it is slightly stiffened by immersing in a light solution of size. The stiffen- ing and the materials used in the con- struction of the fabric produce a crisp and rustling effect. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Taffetine is composed of yarns made the average weight being 800 pounds, instead of 500 pounds, as compared with the American bales. The cotton should be allowed to stand in the bins a little longer than the American bales, so as to allow the cotton to expand. The good waste from the machines up to the slubber is put into the mixing. The cotton is then passed through either two or three processes of PICKING and an opener. Keep the opener well filled with raw stock so that as even a feed as possible may be obtained. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute and the total weight of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. The speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front is ^IVz pounds or a 12-ounce lap. The 266 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. doublings at the finisher picker are 4 into 1, the speed of the picker being 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the front of the picker is 35 pounds or a 12% -ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card. The licker-in speed is 350 revolutions per minute. The flats make one com- plete revolution every 30 minutes, and the cylinder 160 revolutions per min- ute. The draft of the card for this class of goods is 135. The sliver at the front v/eighs 45 grains per yard and the nroduction for a week of 60 hours is 550 pounds. Use the same SETTINGS AT THE CARD as have been previously given for 1%- inch-staple American cotton. The grind- ing and stripping times are also the same. The sliver is next put through a sliver lap machine, when it is dou- bled 14 into 1 for an 83/4-inch lap. The draft of this machine is about 2. The bottom steel rolls are spread as fol- lows for this staple of cotton: Front' to middle, 1% inches; middle to back, 1% inches. The weight of a yard of lap at the front is 295 grains. These laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the RIBBON LAP MACHINE. The bottom steel rolls of this ma- chine are spread as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches; third to back, 1% inches. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this machine is 275 grains. A size of the lap at this machine should be taken once a day. A variation of 2 grains either side of the standard is allowed before changing the draft gear. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled according to the number of heads that the comber contains — generally 6 or 8. If a six-head comber is used, six laps would be put up at the back. The percentage of waste taken out for this stock is 18. The set- tings of the draw box rolls are: Front to middle, 1 7-16 inches; middle to back, 1% inches. The speed of the comber is 90 nips per minute. The timings and settings are the same as given in a previous article. The per- centages of the combers should be tak- en regularly, the general method being to take so many combers a day. Keep needles in good condi- tion and straight and free from waste. See that the half lap needles are in good cond.ition, and that the timings and settings are as they ■Should be. About two combers a week should be scoured by a comber man and his helper. The weight of a yard of sliver at the coiler of this machine is 40 grains. This sliver is next put through two processes of DRAWING FRAMES, the doubling being either 6 ends up at both processes or, as is often done, 8 ends up at the breaker and 6 ends at the finisher. The weight per yard of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 74 grains. The top rolls used may be either metallic or leather. The settings of the rolls are as follows: Front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches and third to back, 1% inches. This setting ' is for leather rolls. If metallic rolls are used, set % of an inch wider. Size at the drawing frame four times a day. At the slub- ber the sliver is drawn into .50 hank roving, after which it is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being as fol- lows: First intermediate, 1.25; second intermediate, 3; and fine frame, 10 hank. This cotton requires 1 tooth more twist than American cotton for the same hank roving. Set the jack frame bottom steel rolls as follows: Front to middle, 1 7-16 inches and mid- dle to back, iy2 inches. Size 10 hank roving once a day. Watch the usual points at the speeders that have been already pointed out in previous arti- cles. THE FILLING is either mule or frame spun, general- ly mules being used for this class of goods. If frame spun, the require- ments of a frame are as follows: Gauge of frame, 2% inches; diameter of ring, 11,4 inches; length of traverse, 51/2 inches; speed of spindles, 8,200 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then run over or through a gas flame to take off all fuzz and give it a lus- tre. Dyeing Particulars. The dyeing of goods composed of silk and cotton is generally done in open vats provided with a winch, in some cases also on a jigger if the ma- terial to be dyed requires it. Colors which dye silk and cotton are used, dyeing first with the substantive color, with soap and phosphate of soda, or common salt and a little sal soda. Should the silk require colors to be made a little brighter, acid colors are used in a bath of soap and acetic acid, or a basic color is dyed in a soap bath with acetic acid, the color dyeing both the cotton and silk a brighter shade. For pale shades: 10 gallons liauor; 5 ounces soap; % ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phos- phate soda. For heavy shades: 10 gal- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 267 Ions liquor; 6 ounces soap; % ounce sal soda; 6 ounces phosphate soda; 10 ounces Glauber's salt. The temperature of the dye bath is generally about 195 degrees F. After dyeing, the pieces must be well rinsed, and raised with acetic acid, in cold water: 10 gallons water; 1% pints acetic acid. BLACK. Eight per cent union black S; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow A; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 2 per cent soap. Top with alizarine iDlack 4 B. SEA GREEN. One-half per cent diamine black H W; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; topped with new methylene blue N; new phosphine G. For 10 gallons dye liquor: 6 ounces soap; % ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phosphate soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine dark blue B; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; topped with new methylene blue N X; metaphenylene blue B; indigo blue N. PEARL. Two ounces diamine gray G; 1-16 ounce diamine brown M; topped with aniline gray B. SLATE. Ten ounces diamine gray G; % ounce diamine brown M; topped with ■cyanol extra, orange extra. LIGHT MAUVE. One ounce diamine violet N; % ■ounce diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. VIOLET. One per cent diamine violet N; Vz per cent diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. PINK. Two per cent diamine rose B D; topped with rhodamine G. RED. Three per cent diamine fast red F; topped with safranine S 150; acid vi- olet 4 R S. SKY BLUE. Four ounces diamine sky blue F F; topped with cyanol extra. LIGHT BROWN. One per cent diamine brown B; Yz per cent diamine yellow B; topped with Bismarck brown F F; thiofiavine T. MYRTLE GREEN. Two per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine green B; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; topped with brilliant green; new methylene blue N. SCARLET. Three per cent diamine fast scarlet G B; 1/2 per cent diamine orange D C; topped with safranine G G S; tannine orange R. CREAM. One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % ounce diamine orange B; 1-16 ounce di- amine fast yellow B. STEEL. One-eighth ounce diamine gray , G; topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray B. ♦-♦-♦ — VICTORIA LAWN. Victoria lawn is a fabric resembling to a great extent a fabric previously explained, linon. It is usually made with slightly heavier yarn in the warp and contains a greater number of ends and picks per inch. It is very firmly woven. It is especially used for aprons and ladies' heavy undergarments, having excellent wearing and washing quali- ties. The usual widths are from 32 inches to 36 inches. They are made in different grades. Retail prices for some are 12 and 15 cents for the 32-inch width, 23 cents, 27 cents, 32 cents and 38 cents for the 36-inch width. A typical fabric, weighing about 8% square yards per pound, is constructed as follows: 124 ends per inch, 120 picks per inch, 36 inches wide, finished. CALCULATIONS. Thirteen square inches of the cloth under consideration weigh 8 grains. To find the number of yards per pound: 13 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grs. per lb.) 8 (grs.) X 36 (cloth width) x 36 (inches per yard) 8. 777 yards per pound. 268 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. To find the average number or count of j^arn in the cloth: firmly made, one beam, is the best to use. Dobby looms, although capable 124 (ends per inch) + 120 (picks per inch) = 24*. 244 X 8.777 (yds. per lb.) x S6 in. 764 (10% allowed for contraction and size 764 used Instead of 840) = 100 average number. ANOTHER METHOD of finding the average number, without taking into consideration the number of yards per pound, is as follows: Multiply the sum of the slay and pick by the number of scjuare inches weighed and by .254 and divide by the weight in grains. This is a simpler method, as will be seen by comparing the number of fig- ures that have to be used in the two methods: of weaving goods of this class, are not usually run at as high a rate of speed as cam looms. FINISHING. The finishing process includes singe- ing, washing, bleaching, very light starching, drying and pressing, or cal- endering. STARCHING. 244 z 13 X .254 = 100 average number. .254 in the above example is a con- stant obtained by dividing 7,000 (grains) by 36 (inches) and by 764 (yards per hank). The latter is used instead of 840, allowing 10 per cent. The counts of the yarns are: warp, 85s; filling, 130s. The weight of the warp yarns may be obtained as follows: 124 (ends per inch) times 36 inches (finished width) equals 4464. 4464 plus 40 for selvedges equals 4504, total number of ends in warp. After a bleaching process, the pieces are given a very good starching with 4 ounces of German white dextrine to a gallon of water, boiled for one hour, and starched through a mangle, and dried over a tenter frame, care being taken to have the goods perfectly straight. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of yarn of which Victo- ria lawn is composed are made in the second and third divisions of mills as given in a previous article. The counts of yarn of which the sample under de- scription is made are 85s warp and 130s filling. Both warp and filling 4504 X 105 (length of warp) 85 (counts of warp) x 840 = 6.623 lbs. ot warp In 100 yards of cloth. 6.623 plus 5 per cent for size equals 6.954 pounds, weight of warp and size. To find weight of filling: 120 (picks per inch) times 40 inches (width in reed) equals 4,800 yards of filling in one yard of cloth. yarns are combed. The cotton use(J for the filling yarn is 1%-inch staple Sea Island stock and that used for the filling is either a long-staple peeler or a 1%-inch Sea Island. We will as- sume that both yarns are made from 4,S X 100 (cloth length) 130 (filling counts) x 840 = 4.S»2 lbs. of fining In 100 yards of cloth. 6.954 lbs. warp a.nd size. 4.392 lbs. filling. 11.346 lbs., weight of 100 yard piece. 100 divided by 11.346 = 8.8 yards per pound. The fabric under consideration, if woven on a dobby loom, could be woven on about 8 harnesses, straight draw, the ends in the body of the cloth being reeded 4 in a dent. The selvedge ends work 2 as 1, 2 doubles in 1 dent. The weave is plain through- out. A 12-harness straight draw, the ends reeded 3 in a dent, could be sub- stituted. LOOM REQUIRED. The remarks made in connection with the preceding article, iinon, also apply here. A single box cam loom. Sea Island stock. The cotton would first be opened, as has been previous- ly explained, and put through an open- er, and either one or two processes of picking, generally two processes being used; but it is the opinion of a great many carders that ONE PROCESS IS BETTER because of the fact that the more pick- ing this cotton is given, the more neps are liable to be put in. The mixing is generally done by hand and not by machine, for the same reason. The cotton should be passed through the opener in the usual manner and should pass on to the lattice apron of the breaker picker, if two processes are used, and from here passed A OOTT'ON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 26» through the feed rolls and to the ac- tion of the beater. This beater is gen- erally of the two-bladed, or armed, type, and for this cotton there should only be made sufficient revolutions per minute to take out the dirt. The speed of the beater is 1,150 revolu- tions per minute, if two processes of picking are used. The weight of the lap at the front of this picker is 32 pounds, or a lO^ounce lap. These laps are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the finisher picker, the speed of the beat- er being 950 revolutions per minute. The beats per minute for this stock are 29. The total weight of the lap at the front is 28 pounds or a dVz- ounce lap to the yard for the 1%-inch stock and a 10%-ounce lap for the 1%- inch stock. A variation of i^ pound is allowed either side of standard for 1%-inch stock and i^ pound for 1%- inch stock. It is understood that every lap must be weighed. The lap is next put up AT THE CARD and the draft for the longer staple should not be less than 150 and for the shorter staple 135. The flats should make one revolution every 35 minutes and the speed of the beater should be reduced to 275 revolutions per minute for the same reason as given for the reduction of the speed of the beater of the picker. The counts of the wire used for the fillet should be 35s for cylinder and 37s for doffer and top flats. Special care should be given to the setting and grinding of the fil- let for these cards, the wire being always kept sharp. Use the same set' tings as given in a previous article for this same grade of stock. The WEIGHT OP THE SLIVER should be about 35 grains per yard for the 1%-inch stock and 32 for the 1%- inch stock. The production is 250 pounds per week of 60 hours for 1%- inch stock and 275 to 325 pounds for 1%-inch stock. Both card slivers are taken to the sliver lap machines and doubled 14 into 1 for an 8%-inch lap. The weight of a yard of sliver lap at this machine is 220 grains. These laps are doubled 6 into 1 at the ribbon lap machine, the weight of the lap be- ing 210 grains per yard for both stocks. The laps of the ribbon lap and sliver lap machines should be weighed once a day and the weights changed at the ribbon lap machine to keep the laps at standard weight. The laps are next put up AT THE COMBER and doubled either 6 or 8 into 1, according to the number of heads that the comber contains. The setting and timing of the comber for this stock have been previously given. The draw box rolls should be set from the 1%-inch stock as follows: Front to middle, 1 13-16 inches, middle to back, 1% inches. It sometimes happens that the draw box will not allow the rolls to be spread this distance and about the only method to overcome this de- fect in this machine, as well as in other machines where a like diffi- culty occurs, is to reduce the draft be- tween the middle and back rolls so that the speed of the rolls will be equal, and set rolls just to staple, which will avoid breaking the cotton; but this has the fault of bringing all the draft between the middle and front rolls. The weight of the sliver at the comber for this stock is 35 grains per yard for both stocks. The percentage of waste taken out for the 1%-inch staple is 25 per cent and for the 1%- staple is 22 per cent. This sliver is next put through two processes of DRAWING. These drawings should be equipped with leather top rolls and especial care should be given to the leather top rolls of the sliver lap, ribbon lap, comber and drawing frame machines. The leather detaching rolls of the comber require a somewhat rougher varnished roll than the others, the leather rolls used for the other ma- chines having a smooth, glossy finish. The varnish used for all the rolls should be that which will prevent all licking. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing snould be 60 grains per yard for both stocks, the doublings at each processi being 6 into 1. At the slubber this is made into .80 hank roving. The front top rolls should be of a larger diameter than those used for shorter staples and should be varnished with a varnish which will give them a smooth, glossy finish. The settings should be 1% inches from front to middle and 2 inch- es from middle to back. The slubber roving is then put through three proc- esses of fly frames and made into 18 hank roving for 1%-inch stock, the hank roving at each process being as follows: 1st intermediate, 2.25 hank; 2d, 5 hank: and flne 18 hank. Some- times the front rolls of the 1st inter- mediate fly frame are varnished. This yarn is next put through THE SPINNING FRAME and made into 85s on a frame having a 5-inch traverse, 1%-in'ch diameter 270 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. ring and a spindle speed of 9,400 rev- olutions per minute. From here it is spooled and warped and put through a slasher. The roving for the filling yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being as follows: 1st, 2.25 hank, second 7.75 hank and fine 24 hank. This is mule spun into 130s and from here is taken to the condi- tioning room. BIAZ, OR LINEN FINISH SUITING, Biaz is a medium-grade cotton fab- ric resembling linen in appearance. This effect is usually obtained on or- dinary cotton yarns in the finishing process, or in somewhat easier form, by using mercerized yarns or mercer- izing the fabric in the piece. They are usually shown white. The. term biaz is an uncommon one in this country. It is an Asiatic na- tive name, pronounced be'az. ORIGIN, The goods are said to have originated at Biaz, a place in the central part of Asia, and to be still manufactured there for home use and for export to Russia. The goods bearing this name are better known in America as "linen finish suitings," and are principally used for ladies' summer suitings. The eastern goods are more heavily filled with foreign matter than ours and are used for various purposes. ANALYSIS. The analysis of a typical biaz fabric shows the following data: Ends per inch, 56; picks per inch, 44; finished width, 32.5 inches; weight- 4.57 yards per pound; warp, 19s; filling, 20s; the ends were reeded 2 in each dent. The weight would probably be considered 4% yards per pound. CALCULATIONS. To find number of yards per pound. The sizes of the yarns are about equal. For practical purposes a warp of 19s and a filling of 20s would answer*. LOOM REQUIRED. This fabric may be made on any of the light, fast running cam looms. On account of the small number of ends per inch a set of two-twine harnesses would be preferable. One warp and one shuttle only are required. FINISHING. The finishing of biaz is really the principal characteristic which distin- guishes it from many other plain wov- en cloths. It has a more glossy effect than Indian linen, one finishing process being somewhat similar to that of the latter fabric, with the beetling process added. A finish suitable for this cloth is as follows: Bleach, mangle and dry; fill with a light starch on the starch man- gle; stretch and dry. After drying and cooling, it is run through the damp- ing machine; then through the glazed calender on both sides, under very heavy pressure. The cloth is then dampened,beetled, changed and turned, and again beetled and made up as re- quired. Carding and Spinning Particulars. For biaz the same instructions may be followed as were given in the article on indigo prints, with the fol- lowing exceptions: The slubber roving is .50 hank and this is put through two processes of fly frames. At the flrst intermediate the roving is made into 1.20 hank and at the second into 3.50 hank. This is then passed directly to the spinning room and spun into 19s warp yarn on a frame having a 2%-inch gauge, two- inch diameter ring, 7-inch traverse; 20.71 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. This is then spooled and warped, after which several warps areput up and run through the slasher and run upon a beam having the required number of A small piece 4 in. x 3 in. weighs 15.7 grs. 4x3 = 12 sq. inches. 12 (sq. in.) x 7,000 (grains) 15.7 (grains) x 32.5 (width) x 36 (inches per yard) = 4.57 yards per pound. To find average counts of yarn in ends wanted for weaving. The filling the cloth: yarn is spun into 20s on a frame hav- 56 ends + U picks = 100. 100 x 32.5 (width) x 4.57 (yds. per IB.) = 19.4 average count. 100 X 12 isq. in.) x .254 (constant) 15 ! (grains 19.4 average counts. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 271 ing a 2%-inch gauge, li/s-inch diame- ter ring, 6%-incli traverse, 14.53 twist per inch, and a spindle speed of 7,300 revolutions per minute, after which the yarn is conditioned. Dyeing Particulars. OLIVE. Five per cent pyrol olive G; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BRONZE. Five per cent pyrol bronze G; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BLACK. Ten per cent thiogene black M cone; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. SLATE. One per cent thion black T B C; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. ECRU. Three-quarters per cent thion brown G; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. RED. Six per cent diamine fast red B B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent Glau- ber's. BROWN. Five per cent immedial brown B; 5 per cent immedial cutch 0; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One and one-half per cent thion blue B cone; 1% per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Develop with peroxide of hydrogen. NAVY BLUE. Eight per cent thion navy blue R; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. Develop with peroxide of sodium. COBDRG SUITING, Coburg, of which there are several varieties, may be defined as a thin dress fabric made from cotton and worsted or cotton and silk. Coburg derives its name from the city of Coburg, in Germany, where it was first manufactured. The all-cot- ton fabric known as coburg is an inex- pensive dress fabric imitating the gen- uine fabric principally in the charac- ter of the weave only. The weave for these fabrics is an UNEVEN-SIDED TWILL, giving the face of the goods a very pronounced twill effect. The accentua- tion of the twill is in part due to the number of ends per inch used in the construction of the goods. The ends per inch in the sample under consider- ation equal twice the number of picks per inch. This is somewhat in excess of the number of ends required to make per- fect cloth. A perfect cloth is under- stood to mean a cloth in which the warp and filling yarns are equal in diameter, and the space between the threads is equal to the diameter of the yarn. This principle of construction applies particularly to plain woven cotton fabrics, more so than to any oth- er class of fabrics. In fabrics of a spe- cial construction, such as coburg, the ends per inch are more or less crowded, with the consequent result of a pro- nounced twill effect on the face of the ■DBHDBHDB ■■aaBDBBa DHHDaiDBB DBBDBBDBB BaBBDBBDB aBOBBnBBn nBBDBBDBB Fig. 1. nnnnnnnnB □nnannDBa DDonnnBDa DDDDDBnaa aDDDBUDDD nnDBoaaDD DDBanDana DBaaannnn BDDDaDDDn Fig. 2. fabric, which characterizes the goods. Cotton coburgs are commonly made with a three-harness twill weave ^ The ends per inch required in order to produce a perfect cloth, according to the above principle of constructing a perfect fabric, with the given counts of yarn, would be as follows: Weave repeats on three ends with two intersections. Three ends plus two intersections equals 5; as 5 : 3 : : 120, the number of ends that will lie side by- side of l-20s cotton in one inch. Formula : 5 : 3 : : 120 : x equals 72. The calculation sihows that 72 ends and 72 picks of l-20s would give a per- fect cloth. In some fabrics an analysis will show 120 ends and 54 picks in the fin- ished fabric. The inequality of ends and picks per inch characterizes cloths of special construction, as the fabric in question. Cotton coburgs are prin- cipally used for dress goods, made up 272 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. into wrappers, shirtwaists, shirtwaist suits, etc. The goods are woven in the gray, then dyed and in most cases printed or bleached and then printed. The goods, however, have no particu- lar coloring scheme or style of print- ed patterns. Some are finished in pure white or bleached without any printed pattern. Again they may be dyed any color desired. In most cases the goods are dyed and printed. The characters of patterns that are most popular in this class of goods are small geometrical figures or small conventionalized floral figures in but one or, at the most, two colors. ANALYSIS. Width in reed, 37% inches; width, j i o i« « • • 4 » • • • • • • • • • • « • • 1 : i • 1 « • • 1 1 • • • « » • 1 :• iO • • ' 1 Fig. 3. finished, 36 inches. Reed, 1,400x3; number of ends in warp, 4,374; 26 ends selvedge; equals 4,400 number of ends. Number of ends, per inch, finished, 120; number of picks per inch, finish- ed, 54; take-up in weaving, about 10 per cent; warp yarn, l-26s cotton; fill- ing yarn, l-26s cotton. Fig. 1. Three repeats of weave; twill running to the left. Fig. 2. Drawing-in draft. The warp may be drawn in on 6 harnesses; 9 harnesses would avoid crowding of the harnesses and give bet- ter results in weaving. Fig. 3. A sample of printed pattern. LOOM REQUIRED. Common cotton fabrics as a rule may be woven on almost any light running high speed loom. Twill weaves, in which more than four harnesses are required, are usually woven on dobby looms. A Northrop dobby loom would answer for the class of goods analyzed. Broken or miss picks in these fabrics are hardly noticeable, the filling show- ing very little of itself on the face of the fabric. FINISHING. The goods are first all boiled off, then dyed or bleached, as may be re- quired, after which they are slightly stiffened by running through a light solution of size, then printed, after which they are made up into laps and then shipped. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Under most conditions the same in- structions given for indigo prints may be followed. The main point of difference is that of the hank rovings at the slubber and fly frames or speeders. At the slubber the hank roving is .40 and at the first intermediate 1.50, while at the second intermediate it is made into 5.25 hank roving. This roving is then ring spun into 26s for both the warp and filling yarns. For the warp yarn use a frame having a 6 1/^ -inch traverse; 1 34 -inch diameter ring; 2% -inch gauge of spindle and a spindle speed of 9,700 revolutions per minute. THIS YARN is then run on a spooler, after which the spools are put up and run on to a beam. Several beams are then put up at the slasher, being run through this machine to be sized and run on to a beam at the head end. The filling frame has a 2%-inch gauge; 1%-inch diameter ring; 6-inch traverse; 17.84 twist per inch, and a spindle speed of 8,000 revolutions per minute. After be- ing made, the yarn should be condi- tioned by putting it into a steam chest or some similar compartment,although some mills merely immerse the full boxes of yarn into a tank of water and take them out immediately. Dyeing Particulars. For cotton warp coburgs: BLACK. Five per cent union black S; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. WINE. Three and one-half per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. LIGHT BLUE. One and one-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; % per cent diamine steel A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 273 blue L; S ounces thiocarmine R pow- der; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. NAVY BLUE. Two per cent diamine black B H; % per cent naphthol blue black; % per cent formyl violet S 4 B; % per cent union black S; 30 per cent Glauber's. BROWN. One per cent diamine orange B; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; y^ per cent union black S; 1 per cent diamine brown M; % per cent Indian yellow G; 35 per cent Glauber's salt. GREEN. Three per cent diamine green G; 1 per cent diamine black H W; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 30 per cent Glauber's. SCARLET. Four per cent diamine scarlet B; 1 per cent fast scarlet B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. SLATE. Six ounces union black; 2 ounces naphthol blue black; 1 ounce diamine Bordeaux B; 2 ounces diamine orange B; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. For coburgs, all wool: For 100 pounds piece goods: Dye witb 15 per cent Glauber's salt, 4 per cent sulphuric acid, for light and medium shades; for dark shades add a little more if required. SLATE. Four and one-half ounces cyanole green B; % ounce acid yellow A T; 1 ounce azo orseille B B. RED. Five per cent naphthol red F B; 1 per cent orange extra. OLIVE. Two per cent cyanole green 6 G; 2^ per cent acid yellow A T. PEACOCK BLUE. Two per cent indigo blue S G N; 1 per cent cyanole extra. BROWN. Two and one-half per cent acid yel- low A T; 2 per cent lanafuchsine S G; % per cent cyanole green 6 G. SKY BLUE. One ounce cyanole F P pat.; y^ ounce acid violet 6 B S. MAUVE. One per cent azo wool violet 7 R; 1 ounce cyanole extra pat. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent azo navy' blue 3 B; li/4 per cent azo navy blue B. BLACK. Five per cent azo merino black B E. KID FINISH CAMBRIC. Kid finish cambric is a name given to a soft-finished plain cloth which is fairly lustrous on both sides, but more so on the face than on the back. It is used exclusively for dress linings. It varies in width from about 24 to 27 inches, and is shown in black and sta- ple shades. The fabric derives its name from its appearance after being subjected to the finishing process. The cloth itself before finishing does not differ from many other plain cloths now shown on the market. It is fairly well filled with foreign sub- stances; the retail price at which it is sold, about 5c. per yard for goods 24 inches wide, and the firm feel neces- sary, preclude the possibility of put- ting very much cotton into it. The analysis of a sample under con- sideration shows the following: Fin- ished width, 251/^ inches; ends per inch, 64; picks per inch, 54; warp yarn, 34s; filling yarn, 38s; weight, 8 1-3 yards per pound. CALCULATIONS. A sample 4 inches x 3 inches in size weighs 11 grains, indicating a fabric weighing approximately 8 1-3 yards per pound. 2,333.33 11 grs. X 25.5 In. = 8.31 yards per pound. Allowing 20 per cent for size and contraction, the average counts of yarns used may be found as follows: 118 X 25.5 X 8.31 x 1.20 35.6 average number. In the above calculation 118 repre- sents the sum of the sley and pick, 25.- 5 the width of the cloth, and 8.31 the number of yards per pound. Assuming the counts of the warp yarns to be 34s, the counts of filling required to make the given weight of cloth may be found as follows: 118 (sum of sley and pick) 35.6 (average counts) 64 (sley) 34 (warp counts) 3.31 — 1.88 = 1.43. = 37.7s counts of filling required. 54 (pick) 1.43 38s filling would be used. LOOM REQUIRED. As these goods are not noticed very 274 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. closely after being made into gar- ments, being bidden when in use, lit- tle attention is paid to picking out or- dinary misweaves in tbe loom. Those tbat are made are covered to a more or less extent in tbe finisbing process. Tbe cbief consideration, therefore, is a large production, wbicb can best be obtained from ligbt running cam looms. Ordinary or automatic looms may be employed, one warp beam and one shuttle only being required. The cloth is reeded one end per heddle and two ends per dent. FINISfflNG. This process is really the principal one in making these goods, giving them, as it does, the characteristic name. It gives to the cloth a some- what leathery feel, not too harsh or stiff, while yet adding a fair amount of foreign matter. After bleaching, dyeing and man- gling, the cloth is dried on the drying machine and allowed to cool. It is then conditioned on the damping ma- chine and allowed to lie for about two hours, after which it is hot swiss cal- endered on a five-bowl compound lever calender, using light pressure. It is afterwards filled on an ordinary two- bowl compound lever starch mangle with a mixture somewhat as follows: Dextrin 200 pounds Potato starch or farina 20 pounds Cornstarch or maize 20 pounds Oleine oil 1 2y2 gaUons Carbolic acid % Pi°t Water, sufficient to make 120 gallons when boiled. Boil for 15 minutes. After being filled, the cloth is dried on the drying machine and allowed to cool, then conditioned on the damping machine and allowed to lie at least two hours. It is then hot swiss cal- endered on a three-bowl dead set cal- ender, using light pressure, after which it is ready for making up. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns for the grade of goods under description are made in mills having the equipment of those of the second division. The yarns for this fabric do not have to be combed. They are made from cotton of a middling grade of 1 1-16 to 1 3-16 inch staple. This cotton is mixed as has been pre- viously described. The cotton should be allowed to stand as long as possi- ble after opening before being worked. The cotton is passed through an open- er and three processes of pickers. Use the usual precaution in feeding the opener, being sure to keep the pin roll- er clear of cotton, especially sliver waste, which is apt to wind around this roll on certain makes of openers. After passing through the opener the cotton is fed to the breaker picker. The beaters of all the pickers are of the two-bladed rigid type. The speed of the beater at the breaker picker is 1,500 revolutions per minute. The to- tal weight of the lap at the front end of the breaker picker is 42 pounds. These laps are doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker, the speed of the beater at this machine being also 1,500 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. The laps are doubled at the fin- isher picker 4 into 1. The speed of the beater is 1,425 revolutions per minute. THE TOTAL WEIGHT of the lap at the front is 40 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. An allowance of one-half pound either side of the standard total weight of lap is made for this class of goods. At the card the speed of the licker-in should be 350' revolutions per minute. Do not make the card do the work of the pick- er, but watch to see that the speed of the beater is correct and that the set- tings of the feed roll and grid and grate bars are right to take out the dirt, seed shells, bits of leaves, etc. It is too often that the licker-in is called upon to do the work that the picker should, and a kick is made that the cards are not doing their duty. The speed of the flats is one complete rev^ olution every 55 minutes. The wire fil- let used on the doffer and flats is No. 34s and on the cylinder is No. 35s. Grind and strip cards as described in a previous article. After grinding, the setting points should be all gone over. Do not have the flats too tight or they are apt to cramp and face, if not loos- en, the wire on the cylinder. Be al- ways sure to set flats to cylinder by the highest flats, generally five being left for this purpose. The weight of the sliver should be about 50 grains per yard and the production 750 to 900 pounds per week of 60 hours. THE CARD 'SLIVER is put through three processes of draw- ing, the doublings being 6 into 1. The speed of the front roller should be about 400 revolutions per minute if leather is used, and 350 revolutions per minute if metallic top rolls are used. The drawing should be sized at least twice a day and four times a day is better. The setting of the bottom steel rolls should be especially looked after, as well as the knock-off motions, to see that no single is allowed to pass. If A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 275 these motions are not in perfect work- ing order single will be allowed to pass, which will throw your numbers all out and cause a great deal of trou- ble to remedy. When changing the draft to change weight, always have same size draft gear on machines run- ning the same kind of work. The weight per yard of the sliver is 70 grains per yard. The drawing sliver is drawn into .60 hank roving at the slub- ber. Watch THE TRAVERSE MOTION to see that it is in working condition. After passing the slubber, the roving is passed through two processes of fly frames, the hank at each process being 2 at the first and 6.50 hank at the sec- ond for the warp yarn and 8 hank for the filling yarn. Size these yams once a day and be sure to keep them on the mark. Watch the build of bobbins, traverse motion, rolls and setting of same. The roving for warp yarn is made in 34s on a frame with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6%-inch traverse, 27.70 turns per inch and spindle speed of 10,200 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled, warped and slashed. The filling is spun into 38s on a frame having a 1%-inch diameter ring, 5%-inch traverse, 23.12 twist per inch and spindle speed of 8,800 revo- lutions per minute. Dyeing Particulars. PINK. Four ounces Erika G; 15 pounds Glauber's; 2 pounds sal soda. DIGHT BLUE. One-half per cent diamine sky blue F F; 15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. MAUVE. One-half per cent diamine violet N; 15 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT SLATE. One-quarter per cent diamineral blue R; 1-16 per cent diamine fast yel- low B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. LIGHT FAWN. One-quarter per cent diamine cate- chine G; Vs per cent diamineral brown G; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SliATE. One and one-half per cent diamine black B H; ^4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. PEA GREEN. One-half per cent diamine green G; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. ECRU. One-eighth per cent diamine catechine 3 G; Vs per cent diamine catechine B; 10 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. ROYAL BLUE. Two per cent diamine blue 3 R; 2 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. SEAL BROWN. Two per cent diamine catechine B; 2 per cent diamine catechine G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow A. WINE. Five per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. RED. Four per cent diamine fast red 2 B; 2 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent Glau- ber's. NAVY BLUE. Five per cent diamine black B H; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; 20 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. BLACK. Three per cent diamine jet black O O; 3 per cent diamine jet black S S: 30 per cent Glauber's; 2% per cent sal Sii'Ma. BOTTLE GREEN. Five per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B. *~t^ BEIGE, Under the head of beige is a class of dress goods, the characteristic of which is their mottled or mixed effect. This effect is brought about by various methods. The method used in produc- ing the effect largely influences the quality of the fabric, but the general appearance remains the same. We will describe beige as made by three different methods: First, this fabric as originally made of yams spun from wool dyed in the stock; this dyed stock is then mixed with un- dyed stock, then spun into a thread; generally several mixtures go into one fabric. These mixtures of dyed and undyed stock are varied. The proportions used may be 50 per cent of each; an- 27€ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. other mixture may have a more or less percentage of either stock; and an- other mixture may be composed of still a different percentage from the first two. The threads then spun from these mixtures are arranged in some order in the warping and also in the weaving, producing what are commonly known as indefinite plaid effects in connection with the mixed or mottled effects. THE SECOND METHOD is to use a combination of twist yams, usually three or four different colored threads, as, for example, black and wihite, black and slate, slate and white, landithie lother maiy be la ipiearl and wihite. These combinations of threads may be arranged similar to the arrangement in the first method, likewise pro- ducing an indefinite plaid effect. The use of black and white, slate and Fig-. 1. white, amd colors of similar shades, pro- duces gray effects. Grays and browns are the prevailing colors in this class of goods. The colored yarn used in this particular class is usually worsted, while the white in most cases is a cotton thread. THE THIRD METHOD of producing this mixed or mottled ef- fect is brought about by printing the goods. This method is usually practiced on the cheaper grade of goods, goods com- posed entirely of cotton yarn; the ef- fect, however, imitates very closely the wool dyed in the stock fabric or the goods composed of twist yams. In the finer grade of fabrics the twill weave is much in evidence, while the cotton goods are mostly woven plain. The plain weave is more adapted to the particular character of printing; in order to give the plaid effect in conr nection with the mixed or mottled ap- pearance, the goods are subjected to two processes of printing: ANALYSIS OF COTTON BEIGE. Width of warp in reed, 38 inches; width of fabric finished, 36 inches; reed, 1,000 by 2; number of ends in warp, 2,076; 28 ends each selvedge equals 56; total' ends in warp, 2,132. Number of ends per inch finished, 60; picks per inch fin- ished, 48; take-up of warp during weaving, 12 per cent; warp and filling yarn 1-26. The 1,000 reed meams 1,000 dents in 36 inches of reed. The 2,076 is the number of ends in warp without the selvedge. Fig. 1. Sample of fabric as pro- duced by means of twist yarns; the fabric is plain woven. LOOM USED. For the better grade of fabrics the pick and pick loom is required to give the best effects. The goods woven pick and pick^ will be less inclined to appear stripy; this effect would be un- desirable; the stripes should be of an indefinite nature. The sample of fabric shown in Fig. 1 is woven on a 4x1 box loom, in which no less than two picks of one color must be woven before it changes on to the next color; unless the col- ors are carefully graded they will pro- duce a fabric more or less striped. In the printed cotton beige fabric a single box loom fills the requirements. This grade of goods fe woven with un- dyed yarns; the effect, as already men- tioned, is produced by the printing ma- chine after the goods are woven. FINISHING. The cotton fabric, after it is woven, is boiled off, after which it is slightly stiffened, then subjected to the print- ing machine, after which it is pressed, then made up into laps or rolls and then shipped. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Beige is a dress goods generally made from wool and sometimes of wool and cotton, other grades being made from all-cotton yarns. The cot- ton is dyed in the stock. Some of the grades of beige are made from combed yarn, whereas other grades are made from carded yarns. The staple of the cotton does not exceed 1% inches in length for an American cotton. Mix cotton as has been previously stated. Three processes of pickers are used, A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 277 the particulars being the same as giv- en for etamine. The particulars for the cards and drawing frames as giv- en in that article may be also follow- ed. AT THE SLUBBER the drawing sliver is made into .60 hank roving, and is then put through two processes of fly frames or speed- ers, the hank roving at the first inter- mediate being 1.75 and at the second intermediate being 5 hank. Speeders should be looked after to see that the rolls are properly set; that top rolls are in good condition; that there are no dead spindles; that the spindles are oiled once a day; the build of bob- bin correct; traverse motion working properly, and frame at all times clean and neat. The bobbins when doffed should not be thrown into doffing box or truck, but should be packed in. The boxes or trucks should be cleaned out before doflang. After changing a frame ■from one land of work to another the new roving should be sized and tested for twist, and the tension watched. Af- ter the speeders the yarn is put through THE SPINNING FRAME, where the proper colors of yarns are doubled together and spun into 26s yarn, the warp frame having the fol- lowing particulars: Length of traverse, aVz inches; diameter of ring, 1% inches; gauge of frame, 2%inches, and spindle speed of 9,700 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled, warped and slashed. For the filling frame use a 2%-inch gauge of frame; 1%-inch diameter ring; 6Hinch traverse and a spindle speed of 8,000 revolutions per minute; the diameter of the front bottom steel roll of spinning frames being one inch for both warp and fill- ing. Dyeing Particulars — Yarn Dyeing. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent naphtamine blue 2 B; 30 per cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda. MEDIUM BROWN. Three per cent naphtamine brown N; 1 per cent naphtamine yellow N N; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. RED. Four per cent diamine fast red B B; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. DARK BROWN. Four per cent naphtamine brown 6 B; 25 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. SLATE. One and one-half per cent naphta- mine black D; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. OLIVE. Three and one-half per cent naphta- mine olive R; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. GREEN. Six per cent immedial green G G; 6 per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent Glauber's. DARK BOTTLE GREEN. Eight per cent immedial green; 8 per cent sulphide soda; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. ECRU. One-half per cent diamine catechine G; 20 per cent salt; 2 per cent sal soda. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N N; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. MAROON. Six per cent immedial Bordeaux G; 6 per cent suphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. LIGHT BLUE. Six per cent immedial sky blue F F; 6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. Printing Particulars. Cotton beige is also printed on the piece. To get a good imitation of the woven fabric, it has to be printed on both sides of the piece. After printing one side of the fabric and drying, the pieces are rolled up on a roller and the other side of the piece is printed, so that both sides of the piece present the same appearance. The goods are given a soft finish to imitate a piece of dress goods. The colors printed on are made as fast as possible, so that the goods can be washed when required. The goods are printed, dried and steamed in a Mather and Piatt at 212 degrees F., excluding the air as far as possible. Wash in cold water, soap luke- warm, rinse and dry. BLUE. Seventy parts immedial indone B N; stir well to a paste with 20 parts caus- tic soda lye, 77 degrees Tw.; 50 parts glycerine; then add 150 parts reducing paste A. The whole is heated for some time to 140 degrees F. and cooled; stir in 80 parts China clay; 60 parts sat- urated solution of common salt; 570 parts alkaline gum thickening. GREEN. Ninety parts immedial green G G; 300 parts alkaline gum thickening; 40 parts China clay; 30 parts saturated 278 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. common salt solution; 150 parts re- ducing paste A; mix and stir; when cool add 40 parts China clay; 30 parts saturated common salt solution; 320 parts alkaline green thickening. BLACK Seventy parts immedial black N L N ; 150 parts reducing paste A; heat to- gether to 120 degrees F.; allow to cool down, then stir in a mixture of 160 parts China clay; 120 parts saturated solution of salt; 500 parts alkaline gum thickening. BROWN. Mix as the blue with 70 parts imme- dial brown B; 10 parts immedial yel- low D. DARK SLATE. Thirty parts immedial black N B; mix as the green. LIGHT SLATE. Ten parts immedial black N G; 2 parts immedial direct blue B; mix as the green. ECRU. Five parts immedial yellow D; 2 parts immedial cutch G; mix as the green. OLIVE. Fifty parts immedial olive B; 20 parts immedial bronze A; mix as the green. BRONZE. Forty parts bronze A; 10 parts cutch G; mix as the green. FAWN. Fifty parts immedial cutch O; 10 parts immedial brown R R; mix as the green. LIGHT BLUE. Forty parts immedial sky blue; mix as the green. POPLIN. Poplin is a name given to a class of goods distinguished by a rep, rib, or cord effect running width way of the piece. It referred originally to a fabric having a silk warp and a figure of wool filling heavier than the warp. At the present time it refers more to a ribbed fabric than to one made from any particular combination of mate- rials. 7,000 (grs. per lb.) x 2.5 (yds.) 2.940 (grs.) Cotton poplin is usually made with a plain weave, the rep effect being ob- tained either by using a fine warp as compared with the filling, or a large number of ends as compared with picks per inch, or both. IRISH POPLIN, made principally in Dublin, is a fabric made of China organzine silk warp and colonial wool filling. The manufacture of this cloth has continued in Dublin since 1693,when a number of Huguenot silk weavers emigrated from Lyons, France. The industry is still carried oi> there to some extent on hand looms, the weavers owning their own looms. The materials are supplied by the firms for whom they work and are given out ready for weaving. The Irish pop- lin is a light-weight variety of poplin, sometimes called single poplin, and is celebrated for its uniformly fine and ex- cellent wearing qualities. Brocaded poplin is made with elab- orate jacquard designs of various types. TERRY POPLIN is a very durable fabric, made on the principle of cloth construction ex- plained in the article on "Terry Pile Fabrics." By throwing to the surface alternate ends of the silk warp an ap- pearance somewhat resembling terry velvet is obtained. The bulk of cotton poplin goods are woven and finished white. Those that are shown in colors, except those of poor quality, are yarn dyed. They are not piece dyed, for the reason that when fine and coarse yarns are com- bined in the same fabric they do not take the dyes equally. For a given length of poplin cloth • a much greater length of warp is re- quired than for an equal length of cloth where the warp and filling yarns and ends and picks are practically equal, because the coarse filling lies in the cloth in practically a straight line, the warp yarns having to do all the de- flecting. The analysis of a typical cotton pop- lin of good quality shows the following data: Ends per inch, 104; picks per inch, 4S; finished width, 27 inches; weight about 6 yards per pound; warp yarns, 2-6Ss; filling yarns, 2-60s. Plain weave. CALCULATIONS. To find number of yards per pound 2y2 yards weigh 2,940 grains. = 5.95, say 6 yds. per pound. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 279 To find average counts of yarn, as- suming the warp yarn to have con- tracted 10 per cent in length from warp to finished cloth, and the filling 4 per DBDaDDBBBBDB < BDGDDDBBBBBi:! I DDDDDBDBBBBB \. aaaDBDBaBBBv 4 times 4 times Fig. 4. goods is an optical illusion, due to the reflection of the light after it falls on the filling being at a different angle to that reflected from the warp, both being viewed from the same position. The larger the section and the greater the proportion of one yarn as com- pared to the other in the same, the more lustrous will be the general ap- pearance of the goods. Fig. 2 shows the harness draft and Fig. 3 the chain draft for producing A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 289 the weave. Fig. 2 is known as a sec- tional drawing-in draft. One of the principal points to be noted in the construction of these weaves is to make the warp floats of each section oppose the filling floats of the adjoining sections, both warp way and filling way. If this is not done, a ragged or indistinct pattern will re- sult, in addition to the cloth not hav- ing as firm a feel. Another point is that it is advisa. nuBBDBBanaDKDGDa ■■DaBBDBGaDaOBDD BaBBBaaBDoanDaaD aaaDBBBDaDDDaDDD DBBBDBBBDGDBaaDa BBDBBBDBDBnDaBDD BDBBBDBB DBaODBD BBBDBaaaBDDDBDDD DaDBDDaaGBaBaaaa DBDDDBODBBDaaBna DDBaDaBDBDBBBGaa BDDDBDOaBBBGBBBD GGGBGGDBGBBBaBBB GBGGGBGGBBGBBBGB GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB BGGGBGGGBBBGBBBG Fig. 5. DBBBGBBBGGGBGDGB BGBBBGBBGGBGGDBG BHBQBBBGBGDGBGGG BBGBBBGBGBGGGBGD GBBBGBBBGGGBGGDB BGBBBGBBGGBGGGBG BBBGBBBGBl GGBGGG BBGBBBGBGBGGGBGG GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB GGGBGDGBGBBBGBBB GBGGGBGGaBGBBBUB BGGGBGDGBBBGBBBG GGBGGGBGBGBBBGBB GGGBGGGBGBBBGBBB GBGGGBGGBBGBBBGB BGGGBGGGBBBGBBBG Fis. 6. BBBBBGBBGGBGGGGG GBBBBBBBGGGGGQGB BBBGBBBBGGGGBGGG BBBBBBGBGBGGGGGG BDBBBBXBGGGGGGBG BBBBGBBBGGGBGGGO BBBBBBBGBGGGDGGG BBGBBBB8GGGGGBGG GGBGGGGGBBBBBGBB GGGGGGGBGBBBBBBB GGG BGnGBBBGBBaa GBGGGGGGBBBBBBGB GGGGGGBGBGBBBBBB GGGBGGGGBBBBGBBB BGGGGGGGBBBBBBBG GGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB Fig. 7. GBBBBBBBGGGGGGGB BBBGBBBBC GGGBGGG BBBBBBGBGBGGGGGG BGBBBBBBGGGGGOBG BBBBGBBBnGGBGGGG BBBBBBBGBGGGGGGG BBGBBBBBGGGGrBGG BBBBBGBBGGBGGGGG GGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB GGBGGGGGBBBBBGBB GGGGGGGBGBBBBBBB GGGGBGGGBBBGBBBB GBGGGGGGBBBBBBQB GGGGGGBGBGBBBBBB GGGBGGGGBBBBGBBB BGGGGGGGBBBBBBBG Fl?. 8 ble to arrange the base weaves in such positions that although there are four sections in each repeat of the weave, the two filling flush sections will be ex- actly alike and the two warp sections alike, whenever possible. This may perhaps be better under- stood by reference to Figs. 1 and 4. Fig. 4, although composed of the same base weaves as Fig. 1, would not make as clean and even an appearance in the cloth as the latter. . A satin check made with Fig. 5 would be preferable to one made with Fig. 6, other conditions being equal. Both of these weaves are built up from broken crow weave bases and cut on all sides. Weave Fig. 7 would be preferable to weave Fig. 8. Both are made from the same 8-end satin weave bases, started in different relative positions. LOOM REQUIRED. Being woven white and with one count of filling only, a single box dobby loom is generally used when weaving these goods. The two base weaves, one warp flush and the other filling fiush,are seldom made on more than 8 ends and 8 picks each, therefore a 16-harness dobby, with a selvedge motion extra, is large enough to allow ample scope for producing a variety of patterns. An 18 or 20 harness dobby should be used if there is no selvedge motion on the loom. Carding and Spinning Particulars. As the fabric considered is similar iu construction and finish to that de- scribed under "Herringbone Stripes," the carding and spinning data need not be repeated. Dyeing Particulars. BRONZE. Five per cent pyrol bronze; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. GREEN. Six per cent pyrol green G; 6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. BLUE. Six per cent pyrol blue B; 6 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt. OLIVE. Two per cent immedial indone B; 6 per cent immedial yellow D; % Psr cent immedial catechine G; 9 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt. WINE. Eight per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. RED. Five per cent diamine fast red B B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. NAVY BLUE. Eight per cent katigen indigo B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. SLATE. One per cent thion black T B; 2 per 290 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue F F; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. SEA GREEN. One-half per cent immedial green B; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent soda ash; 10 per cent salt. NANKEEN, or NANKIN. Nankeen, or nankin, pronounced nan-ken, is a name given to a class of fabrics woven with the plain weave, the distinguishing effect of which is their peculiar yellowish brown color. This color is natural to the cotton of which they are made, the religiosum variety of the gossypium herbaceum class. The goods are worn by Chinese peo- ple in all parts of the world. The original nankeen fabric derived its name from Nanking, the ancient Chinese city, now known as the "south- ern capital," being first constructed there from a native cotton. The PURE NANKEEN FABRIC is finished and worn in the natural col- or and is of Chinese manufacture. The raw cotton is rough, short and hard to work, so much so that the supply of cotton of this type and color grown is not enough to supply the demand for the woven goods. For the last half century or more large quantities of so- called nankeen fabrics of British man- ufacture have been, and are being to- day, exported to China, the principal market for the same being at Canton. These goods are woven white and sub- sequently dyed the required color, dy- ers being able to imitate the qualities of the original nankeen color in all re- spects. KINO, pronounced ke-no, was one of the drugs formerly used for giving tne nan- keen color. Its chief component part is tannic acid. Nankeen fabrics, deriving their name more particularly from their pe- culiar color, are made to vary to some extent in counts of yarns and construc- tions of cloth, although being kept to medium counts and weights. A characteristic fabric is made as follows: Counts of warp, 26s; counts of filling, 22s; ends per inch, 68; picks per inch, 64; width, 27 inches finished. At the present time nankeen fabrics are not necessarily those made exclu- sively of cotton. A sample under con- sideration is made from silk scrapings or waste and cotton warp, mixed before going through the preparing machines, and silk waste filling. The mixed fibres in the warp appear later in the same yarn, the yarn being single spun. The fabric is very uneven, more so in the filling than in the warp, but quite un- even in both. LOOM REQUIRED. Like other plain cloths, a light, quick running plain cam loom is used for their production. Woven a solid col- or, one warp and one shuttle only are required. The ends are reeded two in a dent throughout. FINISHING. Very little finishing is required for the pure goods. After being burled and brushed they are sheared or singed, or both, crabbed, washed dried, and made up as required. Imitation nankeens in addition to the above are subjected to the process of dyeing. Carding and Spinning Particulars. For carding and spinning particu- lars, see article on "Tartan Plaids," the counts of yarns for nankeen being, similar to those explained in said ar- ticle. Dyeing Particulars. This class of goods is dyed on the- gigger dyeing machine in the open, width. The method of dyeing is to take the thoroughly boiled and wet out goods and roll smoothly on the first roll of the gigger. Sew the leaders on with smooth, flat seams, then fill the machine with water about six inches above the inside rolls; heat to the re- quired temperature and add % to % of the dissolved dye (for light shades it is best to add the color in four portions; for medium or dark shades, the dye may be added in two portions). Then start the machine and pass the cloth through the liquor on to the opposite roll, add more of the dye and return; repeat until shade desired is produced. A fine nankeen shade may be dyed with the following dyes: No. 1. Dye with 3 per cent extract fustic; 3 per cent alum. Boil together and add to dye bath in four portions, dyeing at 120 degrees F. No. 2. Dye with 1-10 per cent diam fast yellow B; 0.08 per cent diam cate- chine G; 0.015 per cent diam catechine B: 1 per cent soda; 2 per cent soap. Start dyeing at 100 degrees F., heating. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 291 slowly to 180 degrees F., then add 5 per cent Glauber's salts in two portions and run to shade. No. 3, Dye with 2 per cent immedial orange C; 1 per cent katigen brown G G; 3 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent Turkey red oil. Start dyeing at 100 degrees F., heat to 180 degrees F. slowly, and run to shade. MDSLIN-Foundation Muslin. Foundation muslin is a fabric used to impart stiffness to parts of gar- ments, principally light-weight dresses of lawn or goods of similar character used for graduation and other purposes. It is loosely woven and of very light weight. The requisite body is impart- ed to it in the finishing process by one or more stiffening ingredients. The cloth is woven plain. The ends are drawn single through the heddlefe and reeded two in each dent, with the possible exception of the selvedge ends. The analysis of a characteristic foun- dation muslin shows the following da- ta: Ends per inch, 72; picks per inch, 68; counts of warp, 110; counts of fill- ing, 120; finished width, 31i/^ inches; weight, 20 yards per pound. The sel- vedges consist of 12 ends of 60s yarn on each side, reeded 3 ends per dent. The counts of yarns here stated are as found in the finished cloth. All the yarns are somewhat hard twisted and are free from loose fibres. CALCULATIONS. 311/^ inches times 36 equals 1,134 dents occupied by the warp; 1,134 minus 8 for selvedges equals 1,126 dents; 1,126 times 2 equals 2,252 ends of 110s warp; 8 times 3 equals 24 ends of 60s warp; 2,276, total ends. To find weight of warp in 100 yards of cloth, assuming 10 per cent contrac- tion in length from warp to cloth of the fine yarn and 5 per cent contrac- tion of the coarse yam: 2,252 X 110 (length) 110 (counts) X 840 24 X 105 2.681 pounds of 110s warp. = .05 pound of 60s warp. 60 X 840 2.681 pounds 110s. .05 pound 60s. 2.731 pounds, total weight of warp. The 60s warp has been considered as having been run from spools, separate from the main warp. = 2.261 lbs. filling. To find weight of filling in 100 yards of cloth: 72 (sley) — 1 = 71. 71 divided by 2.1 (constant) = 83.82 dents per Inch In reed. 1,134 divided by 33.82 = 33.53 In., width In reed. 68 (picks) X 33.53 x 100 (length) 120 (counts) X 840 In the preceding calculation the gray and finished widths of che cloth have been assumed to be equal, the cloth having been stretched but little, and tentered to the full width, in the proc- ess of finishing. The finished width of most fabrics is less than the loom or gray cloth width, requiring that the difference between them be taken into consideration when ascertaining the amount of filling required. To find number of yards per pound: 2.731 pounds warp. 2.261 pounds filling. 4.992 pounds, total weight. 100 divided by 4.992 = say, 20 yards per pound. LOOM REQUIRED. A light, fast running, single box cam loom is preferable for these goods, the ends being drawn through twine har- nesses on account of the large num- ber of ends and picks per inch and fine yarn. Being a very light sheer fabric, considerable care has to be taken with it in weaving to prevent misweaves of all kinds, particularly thick and thin places, and broken ends and picks. FINISHING. This process is really the one which makes the characteristic qualities of foundation muslin as distinct from other plain woven goods. A fabric of the construction mentioned, being sim- ilar in all respects except in the finish, would not be known by the same name if finished differently. In fact, many of the cotton fabrics derive their name from the finishing process to which they have been subjected, irrespective of the construction of the cloths. The purpose for which it is to be used de- termines, to a more or less degree, the construction and quality of plain wov- en cloths. Foundation muslins are usually wov- en in natural color, after which they are bleached and finished white, some- what as follows: Burl; singe, bleach, size with gum or gum "tragasol," con- dition, calender and make up. When required in colors, the goods are dyed in the piece. Dyeing Particulars. BLACK. Eight per cent union black S; 1 i>er cent, diamine fast yellow A; 30 per 292 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. cent Glauber's; 2 per cent sal soda; 2 per cent soap. Top with, alizarine black 4 B. SEA GREEN. One-half per cent diamine black H W; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; topped with new methylene blue N, new phosphine G. For 10 gallons dye liquor: 6 ounces soap; y2 ounce sal soda; 3 ounces phosphate soda. NAVY BLUE. Three per cent diamine dark blue B; 1 per cent diamine brilliant blue G; topped with new methylene blue N X; metaphenylene blue B; indigo blue N. PEARL. Two ounces diamine gray G; 1-16 ounce diamine brown M; topped with aniline gray B. SLATE. Ten ounces diamine gray G; Vs ounce diamine brown M; topped with cyanol extra; orange extra. LIGHT MAUVE. One ounce diamine violet N; Vz ounce diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. VIOLET. One per cent diamine violet N; % per cent diamine brilliant blue G; topped with methyl violet B I. PINK. Two per cent diamine rose B D; topped with rhodamine G. SKY BLUE. Four ounces diamine sky blue F F; topped with cyanol extra. LIGHT BROWN. One per cent diamine brown B; % per cent diamine yellow B; topped with Bismarck brown F F; thioflavine T. MYRTLE GREEN. Two per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine green B; 1 per cent diamine fast yellow B; topped with brilliant green; new methylene blue N. CREAM. One-quarter ounce diamine gold; % ounce diamine orange B; 1-16 ounce diamine fast yellow B. STEEL. One-eighth ounce diamine gray G; topped with cyanol extra; aniline gray B. SILENCE CLOTH-Filling Backed Silence cloth, or table felting, is a heavy cotton fabric used to cover the table, under the linen cloth, for the purpose of preventing damage to the finish of the table and to make the cloth look whiter. Standard widths of these goods are 54 and 64 inches. In order to make heavy, thick, firm fabrics it becomes necessary to depart from single cloth structures and intex'- lace the yarns on one or other of the compound weave principles, such as backed, double or heavier ply cloths. In these fabrics some of the yarns, while forming part of the structure, may appear only in the centre or the back, not showing on the face. THE SIMPLEST FORM of these is either a warp-backed or filling-backed fabric, the former of which was shown in the article on "Cotton Cassimeres." Filling-backed fabrics, especially those of the reversible type, i. e., those EDDD mmam DDDffl ■DBB Fig. 1. with the face and back similar, that are made with filling fiush weaves, are excellently adapted for making silence cloths, because a heavy nap is required on both sides of the fabric and this can be obtained best by using soft yarn. The nap is obtained principal- ly with the filling yarns, which are soft and coarse, as warp yarn must have considerably more twist than is required for filling in order that it may withstand the wear and tear of the movements caused by the heddles and reed during weaving. Fig. 1 shows a weave for a filling- backed fabric with a — j twill on each side. Marks m represent the face weave; solid type represents the back weave. A cloth woven with this design would show the warp on both sides, when in the gray, but only one-half of the filling on each side. The individualities of the yams are lost in the finishing process; in silence cloths, therefore, such a cloth, if woven with Fig. 1, picked one pick white and one pick color, would have a white sur- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 293 face on one side and a colored one on the other. As the loose fibres of the filling would practically cover the warp, the color of the latter would be of little consequence. On the score of economy it would be best to have it white. THE ANALYSIS of a silence cloth, before finishing, shows it to have been constructed as follows: Ends per inch, 68; picks per inch, 40 (20 on the face and 20 on the back); warp counts, 11.6, probably in- tended for 11.5; filling counts, 2%; width, 58 inches; weight, 1.45 pounds per yai'd; weave, Fig. 1. This cloth would finish 54 inches. The warp has contracted 18 per cent in length. The filling lies straight, showing little, if any, shrinkage from loom to cloth. It is soft-twisted, con- taining but five turns per inch. Very heavy silence cloths are con- structed on the dorblb or higher ply cloth principles. LOOM REQUIRED. For weaving filling backed silence cloths a heavy loom is required. Al- though they may be woven on cam looms, a dobby would be preferable, un- less it was certain that the same pat- tern would be run on the loom contin- ually. One warp and one shuttle only are required. On account of the coarse filling and the width of the cloth, the shuttles should be large. FINISHING. The processes of bleaching and nap- ping constitute practically all the fin- ishing these goods receive, being wov- en and finished white. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Silence cloth is made up of yarns which are made in the first division of mills, as given in a previous article. The counts of yarn vary according to the weight of the cloth and in the sample that has been taken for de- scription are as follows, 11% s for fill- ing and 2.75s for warp. These yarns are soft twisted to allow them to be easily brushed so as to cause a short, soft nap. The yarns are made of short stock, but as a general rule waste (ex- cept cut roving waste) does not enter into the mixing. The staple used would be about % to % inch in length. The mixing should be large and at each mixing the cut roving waste laps should be mixed in. Mixing for this class of goods is done by hand and it is the general rule to work for produc- tion and not for quality, as a great many defects are covered up in the brushing of the cloth. TWO PROCESSES OF PICKING are used. The mixing after being al- lowed to stand is fed to the feeders. The seeds, fly, etc., should be taken out at regular intervals and care tak- en to see that the pin beater is prop- erly set so that the correct amount of cotton will be fed to the breaker pick- er, to which the opener is generally attached. The beater of this picker is generally of a two-bladed rigid type and for this stock its speed is 1,550 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front should be about 40 pounds or a 16i/^-ounce lap. At the finisher picker the doubling is four into one, the speed of the beater, 1,500 revolutions per minute, and the total weight of the lap 39 pounds or a 14%-ounce lap. A variation of not over 8 ounces either side of standard total weight should be allowed. Care should be taken to see that the drafts are properly directed so as to make an even lap that does not have a tendency to split or lick up. The eveners should be properly looked af- ter to see that they are working prop- erly and the dirt, seed, etc., cleaned from under and about the machines at regular intervals. If possible the pick- ers should be run so that they may be stopped as early as possible in the week so as to clean out the cages and feed rolls, etc. AT THE CARDS the draft should not exceed 95 and the wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 90s and on the doffer and top flats No. 100s. Grind and clean cards as given in previous articles. The set- tings of the different parts of the cards should be the same as those given for indigo prints in a previous article. The weight of the sliver should be 65 grains per j^ard and the production from 800 to 1,000 pounds per week of 60 hours. For this class of goods two processes of di-awing frames are used. The frames may be fitted with either leather covered or metallic top rolls; generally speaking the former are pre- ferred for various reasons. The doub- lings are 8 into 1 and the weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing frame is 75 grains per yard. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolutions per min- ute. At the slubber the sliver is made in- to .40 hank. For THE WARP YARN this is spun into 2.75 (single) soft twist. For the filling yarn there is one process of fly frame at which the slub- ber roving is made into 1.25 hank. The setting of the rolls should be looked after to see that they are properly 294 (■ A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. spread and that the top rolls are in good condition. The speeder or fly frames should be scoured at least once a year. After passing the fly frame the roving is made into 11.5s, being put in single, on a frame having a 7-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter ring and spindle speed of 6,500 revolutions per minute. This yarn is^ also soft spun. ORLEANS LININGS. Orleans linings comprehend a class •of goods, of various qualities and pat- terns, having a cotton v?arp and worst- ed filling. They are used principally for lining the heavier garments for outer and winter wear, and are seen in black and all the fashionable shades. A large proportion are made with the 5-end twill, — - , ground. Fig. 1, the selvedge being woven plain, or with DDDDB DuDHQ QDaDD umaan ■DDDD Fig. 1. two picks in a shed and catch thread ■on the outside. The cheapest grades are woven white, then piece-dyed in solid colors. Better grades have warp dyed yarns, the filling in the same being woven white and dyed to match the warp after It leaves the loom. By this method cotton warp yarns of two colors may be used, say black and white, the black being used for the body of the cloth and the white for the selvedges, the dyes used for the wool not affecting the cotton to any appreciable extent. Advertising has educated the retail Fi£ dealers and consumers to the fact that cotton warp goods with a white sel- vedge, the ground being of color, are more to be depended upon not to crock than similar cloths of solid color. The worsted filling used is of a nat- urally lustrous type, which is capable of being made more lustrous by the finishing process. The yarns are re- quired to be of good quality in order to finish and make up satisfactorily. Fig. 2 illustrates a characteristic ORLEANS LINING, unfinished, containing three counts, colors and qualities of warp yarns. The ground warp is of a dark slate eolor (probably intended for black). This is of 30s counts, is reeded 3 ends per dent, and weaves as shown in Fig. 1. The section just inside the selvedge is solid white, is of 3-ply 100s counts, is reeded 8 ends per dent, and weaves two picks in a shed; there are 24 white ends on each side. The selvedges prop- er consist of 16 ends of 3-ply 60s black cotton on each side and are reeded 4 ends per dent; they weave plain. The selvedge ends are drawn 2 as 1 through each heddle; the remainder of the ends are drawn single. CONSTRUCTION. The construction of the cloth is 80 square, i. e., 80 ends and SO picks per inch. The fabric under consideration, Fig. 2, would require 9 harnesses, 5 for the ground, 2 for the white warp and 2 for the selvedges, and' could be handled best on a dobby loom. By exceptional care in beaming the yarn it would be possible to put the three counts of warp on the same beam, but it is not advisable to do so for various reasons. One is that the 3-lOOs yarn, being so crowded in the reed, would under nor- mal conditions take up faster than the ground warp and thereby become tight- er. Being 3-ply yarn of good quality it might stand the strain of weaving all right, but would not stretch to any ex- tent in finishing. If the ground cloth was stretched to its limit in finishing, the white yarn would be liable to break during that process. For the best results it would be advisable to run the white and selvedge yarns from spools, and the ground warp from the main beam. The white yarn should be run with a minimum amount of tension. The white ends in this sample are so crowded in the reed as to cover the filling entirely; these would show solid white even after the filling was dyed to match the ground warp. It is something out of the ordinary to have such an elaborate selvedge as this on a lining fabric, the general run of the goods having a solid color ground and a few white ends for selvedge. LOOM REQUIRED. For ordinary lining fabrics where the ground weave does not occupy more than 5 harnesses, a cam loom with a selvedge motion would be the A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 295 best to use. A loom weaving 5 ends sateen could readily be changed over to weave a 5-end twill by changing the order of treading the cams, or, if the cams are cast in one piece, by chang- ing the order of tying up the har- nesses. ' One shuttle only is required. FINISHING. The finishing process consists of burling, singeing, crabbing, dyeing, drying and shearing and pressing on hydraulic press. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Orleans linings are made up of worsted and cotton yarns. The counts of these vary according to the grade of the lining desired. The cotton warp yarnsi of the sample analyzed are: main warp 30s, section just in- side the selvedges, 3-lOOs, and the sel- vedge itself 3-60s. These counts of yarn are made in the third division of mills as given in a previous article. While the count of the main yarn is only what may be called a medium count, still, it is made in mills where fine counts are made. It must be un- derstood that while the mills making fine count yarns may and do make low or coarse count yarns, the medium and low count mills cannot make high count yarns with equal success. FOR THE YARNS in the fabric to be described, three different lengths of staple cotton are used. These are mixed either by hand or with the bale breaker, the latter being the better method, because no matter how cloisely the laborers are watched, they do not break up the cot- ton as it should be done. The mixing should be allowed to stand as long as possible in order to dry out. Three processes of pickers are used and the same beater speed may be used for the three different lengths of staple. At the breaker picker a two-bladed beater of the rigid type is generally used. The speed of this beater is 1,500 revolutions per minute. Care should be taken to have the feed rolls and cages taken out and cleaned at regular intervals, which should be as frequently asi possi- ble. Be careful to get a lap that does not split. The weight of the lap at the breaker picker should be about 40 pounds for all three staples. At THE INTERMEDIATE PICKER the laps are doubled 4 into 1. The speed of this beater is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front is 37i/^ pounds. At the finisher picker the laps are doubled 4 into 1. and the speed of the beater is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight at the front may be the same for all staples or they may have different weights.according to the ideas of the ones in charge. If of dif- ferent weights, the weight of the lap for the 30s yarn, which would be made out of 1% to 1 3-16 inch staple cotton, would be 39 pounds or a 14^^- ounce lap; for the 60s yarn (1 3-16 to 1 5-16 inch staple), 35 pounds or a 12i/^- ounce lap; and for the 100s yarn (1% to 1% inch staple), 35 pounds or a 12i^- ounce lap. The staples of cotton giv- en above are for the fabric under de- scription and do not apply to all fab- rics made up of the same counts of yarn. Look out for the drafts and see that the required number of laps are always up at the differenit process- es and also that THE EVENING MOTIONS are in perfect working order. A vari- ation of half a pound either side of the standard weight is allowed, but all laps that vary more than this should be run over again through the finisher picker. Look out to see that the pick- er tender on the finishers does not pull enough lap off of a heavy lap to make it the required weight. Enough laps should be made between Monday and Friday noontime to enable the cards to be run the rest of the week. This is so that the picker men may have time to clean the pickers and make all repairs on the machines that are required. THE CARDS should be equipped with fine counts of wire fillet. The draft at the card for the 30s yarn should not exceed 95, for the 60s 100, and for the 100s not less than 100. The fiats for the coarser yarn should make one complete revo- lution every 55 minutes, for the mid- dle count in 50 minutes, and for the fine count in 40 minutes. Grind, strip and set as described in previous arti- cles when these counts of yarns have been described. The weight per yard of the sliver should be 45 grains and the production 800 pounds for the 1 3-16-inch staple, 700 pounds for 1 5-16-inch staple and 550 pounds for 1%-inch staple for a week of 60 hours. All the card sliver for this fabric is combed. It is THE GENERAL METHOD to run the cotton in succession through the following machines: sliver lap, ribbon lap and comber, but a great many mill men nowadays prefer the following arrangement: one process drawing frame, sliver lap and comber. 296 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. If the former method is used, the dou- bling at the sliver lap machine (for an 8%-inch width lap) is 14 into 1, and at the ribbon lap machine 6 into 1. The weight of the lap at the sliver lap machine is 295 grains per yard, and at the ribbon lap machine 275 grains per yard for 1 3-16-inch staple, 290 grains at sliver lap and 275 grains at ribbon lap for 1 5-16-inch stock and 280 grains and 265 grains for 1%-inch stock. Size at riboon lap once a day, an allowance of five grains either side of standard weight being allowed before changing draft g-ear. At the comber the dou- bling is according to tne number of heads that comber contains (6 or 8). The usual setting and timings should be used. The percentage of waste taken out at the comber is as follows: 15 for 1 3-16, 16 for 1 5-16 and 18 to 20 for 1% inch stocks. TWO PROCESSES OF DRAWING are used, the doubling at the breaker being 8 into 1, and at the finisher 6 into 1. The weight of the sliver at the finisher drawing is 70 grains per yard for all the cotton. Size drawings four times a day, an allowance of 2 grains per yard either side of standard weight being allowed, before changing draft. At the slubber the sliver is made into .60 hank roving for all stocks. To make 30s yarn the cotton is put through two processes of fly frames. At the first intermediate, the hank roving made is 2, and at thefine frame 6. This is made into 30s yarn on a warp spin- ning frame with a 2%-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter ring, and a 6%-inch traverse. The yarn is then spooled, warped and put through the slashers. THE SLUBBING ROVING for the 60s yarn is put through three processes of fly frames, the hank rov- ing being 1 at first intermediate, 3 at second intermediate and 12 at jack frame. This is spun into 60s yarn on a frame having the following particulars: 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch traverse, and spindle speed 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled, made into 3-ply yarn, spooled and run on to a sel- vedge warp. The slubber roving for 100s yarn is also put through three processes of fly frames. At the first intermediate it is made into 2 hank, at the second into 6 hank, and at the fine or jack frame, 20 hank roving. This is spun into 100s on a spinning frame having a 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 5-inch traverse and a spindle speed of 9,400. After being made into 100s yarn it is spooled and twisted into three-ply yarn, after which it is spooled and warped and put through a slasher. At the sliver lap machine, ribbon lap machine, comber and drawing frame the leather top rolls have to be varnish- ed, and should be kept in perfect con- dition, both as to varnish and leather. THE VARNISH USED for the comber rolls should be of a heavier or rougher kind than that used for the other rolls. Several recipes for varnish have been already given, but the following will also be found to be an excellent one: For comber rolls use 8 ounces plate glue, 8 ounces ground gelatine, 12 ounces burnt sienna, 1 ounce oil originum, 3 pints acetic acid, 1 pint water. For the other rolls use the same mixture, ex- cepting that vermilion should be used instead of the burnt sienna. This will make a much smoother roll than the varnish used for the combers. Many also varnish the front rolls of the slubber; when this is done the var- nish used should be thinner than the others, being thinned with the acetic acid. Dyeing Particulars. Dyeing Orleans linings, as in all other classes of goods, is done in a good many ways, according to the qual- ity and the price the goods are sold at. A fine quality black Orleans is woven with a black warp, which will stand the after processes of finishing and dyeiflg, which are crabbing, scouring, singeing and steam lustring; then dye- ing either with a logwood black on a chrome mordant or one of the blacks which dyes the worsted filling at one dip in an acid bath. If the goods have white cotton threads in the selvedges, the dyer will select one of the blacks which have no afiinity for cotton in the acid bath. Dyestuffs suitable for the warps on this class of goods are THE SULPHUR BLACKS, which are sold under several names, but all dye in the same manner in a bath composed of the dye, sodium sulphide, soda ash and common salt or Glauber's salts. Another black suit- able for this class of goods is the dia- mine blacks, developed. These blacks are dyed in the following manner: first the warps are dyed in a boiling batn with the diamine black and Glauber's, then treated in a cold bath with ni- trite of soda and muriatic acid, then in a third cold bath with phenylenedia- mine. Fast slate shades are dyed the same as the blacks, only using about half the proportion of dyes and shad- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 2y7 ing with small portions of red or yel- low of the same group of dyes. Or- leans FOR FANCY COLORS are woven with white cotton warps and worsted filling, which are dyed either with the direct colors, which dye the cotton and worsted at one bath, or the four-bath method. The first method consists in dyeing in a bath composed of the direct cotton dyes and wool dyes which dye in a neutral bath with Glauber's salts at boil. The sec- ond method is to first dye the worsted filling with aniline dyes in a bath with acid and Glauber's salts. Wash well. Then treat the warps with tan- nic acid, or sumac, in a cold bath; then in a third bath, with tartar emetic, or one of the antimony salts; then in a fourth bath dye the warp to shade with basic dyestuff. The dyeing of this class of goods, like that of all other goods dyed in the piece, requires con- siderable practice and skill. SHADOW CHECKS. Shadow checks are a class of pat- terns of set check or block effects •of a very faint character. Viewed from certain directions, they appear to have a faint stripe or to be without pattern entirely. They are seen in apparel goods of various materials, from silk to cotton, and usually in plain, simple twill, or other small regular weave. The goods are always shown in white, black or solid color. Shadow checks are the faintest check ■effects that appear in woven goods and are made by arranging a certain num- ber of ends of yarn twisted to the right and a certain number twisted to the left, and picking the filling in a similar manner. For example, a shad- ow check of the shepherd plaid type, i. e., a check with alternate blocks of equal size, might have the warp yarns arranged 10 ends of right twist and 10 ends of left twist alternately, the fill- ing being inserted 10 picks of right twist and 10 pickb of left twist. A MODIFICATION of this might be made by arranging the yarns in both warp and filling, 4 right twist, 2 left twist, 4 right, 4 left, 2 right, 4 left; 20 ends and 20 picks per pattern. As the yarns are all of the same counts, material, quality and color, and are reeded equally, it follows that something out of the ordinary causes the check effect. It is an optical illu- sion, due to the reflection of the light that falls upon the fabric being de- flected at a different angle in the sec- tions composed of right twist yams to the sections composed of the reverse twist yarns. In a shadow check of the shepherd plaid type under consideration, the face yarns are arranged 16 of each Fig. 1. twist alternately in both warp and fill- ing. The face weave is the 4-end bas- ket. LOOM REQUIRED. These goods require box looms of the simplest type, with two boxes at one end and a single box at the other. The manner of preparing the warps determines to some extent the type of shedding motion to use, whether cam or dobby. As the finished fabrics are required to be in one solid color, and some warp yarns differ from others only in the direction of twist m the same, care has to be exercised to keep the yarns where they belong and to tie in the right twist when an end breaks. ONE OF TWO METHODS may be adopted to assist in keeping the yarns in order: . First, tint the yarns of one twist with a light substance that may be no- ticeable in the loom and yet wash out readily before it is dyed, the other warp varus being in the gray. By this method the warp yarns may all be readily drawn on one beam, and wov- en on a cam loom. . Second, place the different twists of yarns on separate beams and draw them through separate sections of har- nesses. When this method is adopted it is advisable to use the dobby in pref- erence to cams on account of the num- ber of harnesses required. Two colors or kinds of bobbins should be used, one for each kind of twist, so that the filling will not be li- able to get mixed; or if cops without tubes are used, the shuttles should be marked so as to be easily distin- guished. Tubes of different colors can be used if the cops are built on tubes. IMITATIONS of shadow checks have been shown to some extent in cotton warp and mo- 298 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. hair or lustre worsted filling goods. These are made with the warp yarn all the same twist, the shadow effect, warp way, being obtained by reeding some dents with more ends than others. In a fabric of the type of goods un- der consideration, the yarns are ar- ranged as follows: WARP. Beds. Dents. 1« in 1 IS 1 10 1 10 1 10 4 10 4 10 1 10 1 10 1 Total, 121 1 ends in 68 dents, per pattern, FILLING. Right twist yarn, . Left twist yarn. 10 6 10 62 62 = 124 picks per pattern. As these fabrics are characterized by the pattern, the constructions of the cloths vary considerably. The fabric under consideration contains an aver- age of about 55 1-3 ends' per inch of 2-120s cotton, the same twist through- out. Each pattern contains 121 ends and measures 2 3-16 inches; 121 divided by 2 3-16 equals 55 11-35 or 55 1-3 per inch. There are 48 picks of worsted per inch. Shadow stripes are made by using only one kind of filling, the warp yarns being arranged as in shadow checks, with the take-up of the cloth regular. An irregular take-up would make a check effect. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The carding and spinning data for this class of fabric are those given in the article on batiste and need not be repeated here. cent Glauber's salt and run at a tem- perature of 190 degrees F. until the wool is dark enough, when the steam is turned off and the bath cooled down and the goods run until the cotton warp is dyed to shade. LIGHT PINK. One-half to 2 ounces erika pink. BLACK. Five per cent union black S B. LIGHT BLUE. Dye as pink, with i/^ to 1 ounce tetra- zo brilliant blue 6 B. LIGHT SLATE. Two ounces diamine black B H; dye as pink. RED. One-half pound benzo fast red 4 B; dye as pink. YELLOW, Dye as pink. Eight ounces chryso- phenine. ORANGE. Dye as pink. One pound Mikado orange B, SCARL^ET. Dye as pink. One pound diamine scarlet B. LIGHT WINE. Dye as pink. One pound diamine Bordeaux B. LIGHT AMBER BROWN. Four ounces diamine catechine G; 4 ounces diamine fast yellow B; dye as pink. TOBACCO BROWN. One-half pound diamine brown B; 2 ounces diamine fast yellow B; dye as- pink. LIGHT TAN. Dye as pink; 4 ounces diamine bronze G; 2 ounces diamine fast yel- low B. LIGHT GREEN. Dye as pink; 10 ounces diamine green G; 5 ounces diamine fast yel- low B. Top with fresh bath; 6 ounces brilliant green G. Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed with 30 per BARATHEA. Barathea, or barrathea, is a name used to denote a certain effect in woven fabrics, obtained prin- cipally by the manner in which the warp yarns are interlaced. The effect combines to a greater or less degree several well-known types of A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 299 woven effects. Viewed in certain ways the effect is tliat of a stripe. Upon close examination it appears like a broken cord, and yet somewhat like a basket weave. An examination of Fig. 2, the weave will reveal how these effeiots are ob- tained. This weave is complete on 24 ends and four picks, having been repeated in the picks. At the points indicated by the space there is a break in the regular formation of the pattern, caused by one section, which is in all resipects like the other, in so far as the effect it makes is con- cerned, being raised half way of one DBDBDa DBDBUHaaaBDa DBDBDB GBaPDB DDBDBDBDBDBa DBOBaB BDBDBD ■DSaBDBDBDBa BnBDBD BaBDaa □BDBDHDBaPDB BDBDBD DBDBDB DBDBDDDBDBDB DBDBDB DBDBDB BDBDQDBDDDBD DBDBDB BDBDBD BDBDBDDDaDBD BDBDBD BDBnBD DBDDDBDBDBDB BDBDBD ABA Fig. 2 Fig. 3. □BDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBgB DBDBDBgBDBDB DBaBDBDBDBDB BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBD BDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBq BDBDBDBDBDBD 4 times equals 48 ends DBDBDBDBOBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD ■DBDBDBDBDBG ■DBDBDBDBDBD BDBDBDBDBDBD DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB DBDBDBDBDBDB 4 times equals 48 ends Fig'. 4. bsbsb:b!b:b: b:b5b:bsb:b: B:b:B!B5B!Q! -HiBBgrBBBK ■DBDBDBOBDBD JDBDBDBDBDBD DBDBDBDBDBDB OBDBDBGBDBQB ^___„ IDI. IDBDBDBDBDBD IDBDBDBDBDBD ■DBDBDBDI. IDBDBDBDBDBD Fig. 5. cord above the other, or, as it is termed, one section is "set across" the other. It is at these points that a cut effect is obtained, which defines the stripe warp way. One repeat of the weave, in the number of picks it con- tains, is represented in the cloth by two repeats of the effect, or two cords warp way. Section A, or B, of Fig. 2 is simply repeats of warp cord weaves. Bach section represents six repeats of the two end cord. Fig. 3, and if woven alone would form an unbroken cord or rep effect across the cloth. The great- er the number of ends in each section of the weave, as compared with the number of picks, the more pronounced will be the cord appearance. The nearer square the complete pattern appears in the cloth, the more will it resemble a basket effect. The patterns vary from square to effects several times longer filling way than length way of the cloth. When constructing cloths with warp cord weaves, of which barathea weaves are an extension, considera- bly more ends than picks per inch are required, the object being to cover the filling yarns entirely. Barathea fabrics in all-silk, or with silk warp and cotton filling, are ex- 300 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. tensively used in the manufacture of gentlemen's neckties. They are usual- ly shown in white, black, solid and staple colors, although occasionally made in more than one color. Ihe construction of two of these fabrics is as follows: White, fine siilk warp and spun silk filling, weave, Pig. 2; 280 ends and 72 picks per inch; 23 1-3 ribs per inch. Black, fine silk warp, ply cotton filling, weave. Fig. 4; 480 ends and 100 picks per inch; 10 ribs per inch. They are seldom made with larger effects than this for tie silks. Baratheas are excellent wearing fab- rics, the yarns exposed to wear, the warp yarns, being necessarily fine and of good quality. They are made to differ in the sizes of ribs used, small effects being used more than large ones. The size is regulated by one or both of two factors; first, the num- ber of ends and picks in a repeat of the weave; second, the number of ends and picks per inch, of yarn in the cloth. Figs. 2, 4 and 5 are the weaves generally used, the number of ends in each section varying accord- to requirements. The two sections comprising the re- peat, no matter how many ends used, usually contain an equal number of ends. With the weaves already noted the effect produced on the backof the cloth is an exact duplicate of that on the face. A modification or extension of these weaves, used principally in the larger effects, is shown in Figs. 6 and 7. The solid marks in Fig. 6 indicate a weave that would form an effect on the face of the cloth similar to that made with weave Fig. 4. These repre- sent where the warp would show on the face, coming together and covering the raisers indicated by the crosses. The latter indicate a broken plain weave on the back. Fig. 7 would make the same face ef- fect in the cloth as Fig. 4, if woven with the same construction, but the back of the cloth would show a broken twill effect. A firmer fabric would be produced with weaves 6 and 7 than with No. 4, with the same amount of material. Further extensions of these weaves are illustrated in Figs. 8, 9, 10 and 11. The patterns indicated may be wov- en on ordinary single box silk dobby looms. If two colors are used in the same fabric they are arranged in the warp. As the warp covers the filling there is nothing to be gained by us- ing more than one color of filling. LOOP OR KNO CLOTH. Loop or kno cloths are character- ized by small loops of warp yarn pro- jecting from the face of the cloth, usu- ally in set, regular order. They are novelties, not standard goods, and as such are not limited to any one construction, quality or ma- terial. They are generally made with cotton, wool or silk yarns. The yarns forming the loops are used for ornamental purposes only. Fig. 1 is an example of a loop pat- tern on a H_ twill ground. The loop yarns in this particular instance Fig. 1. are arranged as extras, not showing on the face of the cloth, except where they are required to form the loops. l 1 i 1 '^1 i i ' ' J; "T I'f 1 "i » 1 > 4_ * * 1 *' » M i*^ ' ^ 1 ^ t I X V 1 r ' M ' ' ^' ■ i in i ' , 7l ' 1 I.. .oz... :..x... ^..±. J. :l Fi^. tachments. Some of these are as fol- lows: First. The loop yarns are arranged to work gauze or leno in connection with wires fastened to one or more of the harness frames. These yarns go from one side to the other of the wires and as the cloth is drawn down, slide over and away from them and are left in loops. Second. Wires are inserted across the cloth in place of the regular shut- is liable to make the cloth look barry where the three picks are beaten up together, as the ground ends offer con- siderably more resistance than on an ordinary terry towel fabric, there be- ing only a relatively sm.all portion of the ends weaving terry. Dyeing Particulars. LIGHT SLATE. One per cent diamine black B H; 1 302 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. ECRU. One-half per cent diamine catechine G; 1/4 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 1 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's. NAVY BLUE. Eight per cent immedial new blue G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide crys- tals; 2 per cent caustic soda lye, 75 degrees Tw.; 30 per cent Glauber's. BOTTLE GREEN. Eight per cent diamine black H W; 2 per cent diamine fast yellow B; 2 1 " 1 " ■ 1 ■ " " ■ " ■ F , 5x . iia - 1 ■1 ■ m r I i- fl i. V .a L.I 1 II " " " _ " " 1 i i - - - - k - r- - - r - - >t i*l - - - - f i .J li . L a Til .- - - - - - r - - K w - 1 ■ 1 X r 1 1 r 1 1 p ■ 4J 1 L ' "' " " '" '" " 1 ■ X - 9^ - -U . 1 Li L J T III " " " " " " " ' ' , ^^ Fii per cent sal soda; 20 per cent Glau- ber's salt. GRAY. One per cent immedial black N L N; 1 per cent sodium sulphide; i/^ per cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. MAROON. Five per cent immedial maroon B; 6 per cent sodium sulphide; 1 per cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. MODE. One per cent immedial brown B V; 1 per cent immedial yellow D; 2 per cent sodium sulphide; % per cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. GREEN. Eight per cent immedial green G G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 2 per cent caustic soda solid; 20 per cent salt. BLACK. Six per cent para diamine black B B; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. RED. Five per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. PEA GREEN. One-half per cent diamine green G; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One per cent diamine sky blue P F; 1 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. CREPOHS. These fabrics are made up of a combination of cotton worsted, or cotton, worsted and silk. The goods are usually piece dyed and used prin- cipally for ladies' wear in the form of skirts. The character of the patterns for these fabrics is such that the best effects can only be obtained with the use of the jacquard loom. In this treatise we will consider the fabric as woven on the harness loom. The har- ness loom is utilized either because the manufacturer has no jacquard loom on hand or wishes to reduce the cost of weaving. THE WEAVE for these fabrics is based on the dou- bled cloth system. Under the head of doubled cloth we comprehend the combining of two separate textures in- to one fabric requiring separate warp and filling threads for each texture. Combining the two textures into one fabric is effected by interlacing the warp or filling threads, or both, cf one texture into those of the other at regular intervals. The pattern being effected with the warp and filling of one system of threads forms a raised figure on the face of the goods. This raised figure depends as much on the nature of the yarn as it does on the weave. The cotton in the goods is principally used as a back for the raised figure; the worsted forms the figure. If silk is used, the silk forms the figure and the worsted or wool goes into the body of the goods, and in the finishing of the fabric contracts considerably, thus ac- centuating the figure. In a foregoing paragraph it was A COTTON FABRICS' GLOSSARY. i03 suggested that the best effects are only obtainable with the use of the jacquard loom, by reason of the fact that the patterns are too large to be some very clever effects. The variety in regard to texture in these fabrics can be comprehended best by compar- ing several fabrics of different tex- r% |.s pS gpd ■ a j-s j-s »s .-r-v-N Jt wJ mA wJS m'^^jTu'Vsr^J nrS ■« iJ iVmVvmI IM ■■!«!!■! mA inS mA iVSV- operated on the harness loom, and as a rule the quality of the fabric is not made as fine as the jacquard loom fabric; however, a harness loom that can operate 24 harnesses can produce tures. Some idea may be obtained by the following constructions. A texture for a cheap grade crepon: "Width in reed, 56 inches; finished at 52 inches; warp plan, one end face 304 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. warp, 2-32S mohair, 1 end back warp, 2-50S cotton; 15x4 reed; filling, l-30s cotton filling; 60 picks. A better grade may be made with the same warp plan, by using one pick nnannanDBana DDDnDDDDDBDn nannaDDDDDHD DDDDDnDDDDaB QaDDannnBaan ODaaaDaDOBan aanaanDDDDBa DDDDunDGnan* DDnaHnDDODDD aDDDaBDnDDDa DDDDDn ■□DDDQ DaananDBDDDD aaanpaaaDDDn DDDanBnDDDaa anannaBaannD nnGnaaaBnaDD ■naana nnoDna DBannDDcnnan anan jnannnnn n-namaaoaaano ■nDDDnGDonna DBGnnnnnngng ODBaDaDDDDDO n::aiDnDDDgDD ■zmnnaaDDD nm'nonanannaa DamannDDDng DanBDannDDDa ■naanDDDagng □BanaanDnODD DDBaaDDDaDnn aaanaDDDDDng DDDann 000000 oDooaBoaDDan DDOOOD BOOOOD OOOODO OBOOOO OODOBDOODpOD aoDnDBDODOoa DoaaaaBOODoa OaaGODDHODnD DDOaODDOBDOn DDDDDDDOOBOD OaDaODDDDOBn (_] LJ LJ I—I LJ l_J 1—1 1— 1 1— 1 1— I '" I DODDDODDDODU GODOODODBDCjD DDDDODDDDBDa DODDODOODDBD OOaDDDDODDD- 00 ooaDODDOBngD g DLjDDDDDDOOP!!: ODDOODaDDOOBy OaDDOOODBOOD DDDOoaonDBna DDDQDDDDggBD ODDDDOaaDDaB ODOOBDOOnDDa ODODOHODDDDa ODDDDOBODDOa QDDDODDBDDDO OODDBDODODDD nOaDOBDODODD oDanoDBDrogg DnDOODDBDOOg BDGDaDDDOgOD DBGDOODDODOD oDBaaGODogoD OOOBnODDODDD BDODODDgogGJ oBGOoGoggggg DGBDGr^DODgog DGGBGDncgogg BnoGGGDODgag OBGaGGGDOGGO aGBGGOOGDDDG DGaonaanDDDO BanGOGGODgag OBOGOGODaODD DDBaGOGQQLiGg DGOHOacrGDOD DGnaBanGCjDDD OGODGB nooDon DGGGGOBOGODD DGGGGG DHODDD ODDGBGaOGGOO GGGlOaGrDGDO aGDODGBGODDO OaGGGODHrOGD amaGGGOHnGO OGGGGGGGGHGO GGGOaGGGDGBa OGGDDaODGODB GGODOOOOBGDO OaGDODDDDHGD DOaaODDODGBD aaDGnnoDDDDB worsted to alternate with one pick cot- ton. The worsted will be face filling. The character of the pattern' for this grade of crepon may be any con- ventionalized figure, arranged usually in some zigzag manner, imitating as much as possible the larger patterns made on jacquard looms. The raised figure or blister effect covers as much space or divides equally with the- ground in most fabrics of the cheaper grades. In the better grades there is visually more figure than ground. Pig. 1 shows a design illustrating the crepon weave and proportion of figure to ground for fabrics on 20 to 24 harness- es. Fig. 2 shows the drawing-in draft. A texture for a fine grade of crepon that may be woven either on the jac- quard or harness loom: Warp arrangement, 4 ends face warp, 2 ends in 1 heddle, 1% dram silk; 20x3 reed; 1 end back warp, 2- 60s cotton; filling 3 picks, 1 dram silk, 1 pick, 2-30s worsted; 80 picks per inch, 60 face picks, 20 back picks. This construction can be made up to the best advantage, in regard to pattern, with the jacquard loom. In finishing the cheaper grades, wherein the fabric is made up of cot- ton and worsted, the cotton yarn is dyed before' it reaches the loom. After the fabric is woven it is dyed for the worsted. The prevailing color for these fabrics is solid black. The worsted in the goods contracts con- siderably during the finishing, produc- ing the blister effect by which the goods are characterized. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Crepon is made up in many differ- ent ways and out of different fibres, sometimes wool and 'cotton yarns be- ing employed. Other combinations are cotton and silk, wool and worsted, all wool, all worsted, all cotton, etc. When the same fibre is used through- out the cloth, the twist put in the yarn plays a very important part. For ex- ample, one yarn, generally the warp, is very tightly twisted, while the fill- ing yarn is stock twisted. When the cloth constructed from these yarns is dyed, the action of the dye on the yarns is entirely different and con- tracts one more than the other, thus causing the raised or puffed effect of crepon. ANOTHER METHOD used is to have part of the warp yarn with the regular twist, while another part has a reverse twist put in, the effect produced being the same as before. In the cloth under description the back- ing or picking warp is to be 2-60s cot- ton yarn. To produce this yarn the mechanics' data, etc., required would be as follows: The mixing should be as large as possible and should be al- lowed to stand at least 4S hours be- fore being used, so that the cotton will A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 305 have become thoroughly expanded be- fore being used. THE COTTON should be of a good middling grade and of 1 5-16-inch staple. The raw stock is passed through an opener and three processes of picking. The hopper of the opener should be kept full of cotton, a small percentage of good waste from the machines up to the slubber being put in at this ma- chine. The speed of the beater, which is generally of the two-bladed, rigid type, should be at least 1,500 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front end should be 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap (the total weights given are for a lap 40 yards in length). Four of these laps are put up at the intermediate picker and run through and made into a lap weighing 38 pounds, or a 10-ounce lap. The speed of the beater for this ma- chine is 1,450 revolutions per minute. These laps are in turn put up at the back of THE FINISHER PICKER. The speed of this beater is 1,350 to 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of the lap at the front is 39 pounds, or a 14i^-ounce lap. Every lap should be weighed and all laps varying more than one-half a pound from the standard should be put to the back of the finisher picker and run through again. It is very important to see that this is done, because nothing will throw yarn numbers off more quickly than laps that vary. Another important question in the picker room is what to do with the CUT ROVING "WASTE. Of course, the best thing to do is not to make it. As it is made, the next question is how to use it up. Up-to- date mills are installing a cut roving waste machine in their plants, but there are a great many mills which have no such machine. In this case the waste is put through the interme- diate picker, the two centre laps at the back of the picker being removed and the waste spread evenly between the two ■ remaining laps. To help stop these laps from licking, four or six ends of slubber roving are run in- to the lap at the front end of the pick- er. These laps are run. in with the raw stock laps at the back of the fin- isher picker in the proportion of one lap of cut waste to three laps of cot- ton as long as they last. As little cut waste should be run as possible be- cause it not only causes licking laps, but it CAUSES UNEVEN WORK and weak roving and yarn; it is con- tinually breaking back in the creels, requiring one and sometimes two teeth of twist more than when not used. The laps from the picker are put up at the card, the setting of which should be the same as given in previous articles when the same grade and staple of cotton were used. The speed of the flats should be one com- plete revolution every 37 minutes. The speed of the licker-in should be 300 revolutions per minute. The pro- duction should be about 550 pounds for a week of 60 hoxirs. Wiatch all the setting points. Set at least once a month all over. Grind cards lightly and often. Strip three times a day and keep cards as clean as possible and well oiled. Doff cans when full and don't allow them tO' become so full that they fall over. Care should be taken that no single or double is allowed to pass through. Th© DRAFT OF THE CARD for this kind of work should not be less than 100 and the sliver should weigh 50 grains. This sliver may be either combed or passed directly to the drawing frame. Generally, how- ever, it is combed. Different methods and machines are used nowadays for combing, but the general method is to have the card sliver run through a sliver lap machine, where it is dou- bled 14 into 1, and the weight of the lap is 300 grains per yard. From here it is passed to the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at this machine is 290. From here it is passed to THE COMBER and doubled 6 into 1, the weight of a yard of sliver being 60 grains. At the ribbon lap machine the laps should be sized once a day, and if the weights are coming uneven, twice or even three times a day. The comber sliver is next put through two process- es of drawing, the doublings being 8 into 1 at the breaker and 6 into 1 at the finisher. The weight of sliver af finisher is 80 grains per yard. This cot- ton is then put through the slubber and made into .40 hank roving. At the first intermediate the roving is 1 hank and at the second 3 hank, while at the jacks the roving is 12 hank. Be careful of the settings of the rolls. They should not be spread too far apart, causing a strain, nor should they be so close as to cause a breaking of the fibre. The 12-hank roving is 306 A COTTON FABRICS' GLOSSARY. spun into 60s on a spinning frame hav- ing a 2%-inch gauge of frame, li^-incli diameter ring, and a 6-inch, traverse. The twist put in is in excess of that generally used for warp yarn, some- times as high as 6.40 times the square root of the count being used, instead of 4.25, the usual twist. After being spun, the yarn is spooled and twisted into 2-ply 60s yarn, after which it is warped and run through the slasher and beamed. Dyeing Particulars. Crepons are woven sometimes with a black warp, dyed with sulphur black and piece dyed with wool colors. BLACK. Five per cent anthracene chrome black P F ; 4 per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil of vitriol. Boil 45 min- utes. Afterchrome with 1 per cent bi- chrome 30 minutes. NAVY BLUE. Four per cent azo chrome blue T B; 4 per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1 per cent bichrome 30 minutes. The warp® are also colored with im- medial sulphur colors to shades re- quired and dyed in the piece with wool colors. BROWN. Two per cent anthracene chrome brown D W; 1 per cent anthracene acid brown G; % per cent anthracene yellow B N; 3 per cent oil vitriol. Afterchrome, 1^^ per cent chrome. PEARL. One-quarter per cent anthracene chrome blue G; 1 per cent oil of vit- riol. Afterchrome, 2 ounces bichrome. SLATE. One per cent anthracene chrome blue G; % of an ounce anthracene yellow B N; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1 per cent bichrome, MODE. Four ounces anthracene chrome blue G; 2 ounces anthracene chrome red A; 1% ounces anthracene yellow B N; 2 per cent oil of vitriol. After- chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. SNUFF BROWN. One-half per cent anthracene chrome red A; lYz per cent anthra- cene chrome brown D; 11^4 per cent anthracene yellow B N; ^4 per cent anthracene chrome blue F; 3 per cent oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1% per cent bichrome. GREEN. Three per cent anthracene chrome blue G; 1 per cent brilliant milling green B; l^^ per cent anthracene yel- low B N; 4 per cent oil of vitriol. Af- terchrome, 2 per cent bichrome. WINE. Two per cent wool red B; 1 per cent anthracene chrome blue R; 3 per cent acetic acid; 1 per cent oil of vitriol. Afterchrome, 1 per cent bi- chrome. SAGE. Two ounces anthracene chrome blue B B; 2 ounces anthracene yel- low B N; 1-16 ounce anthracene red A; 1 per cent oil of vitriol. After- chrome, 1 per cent bichrome. SHADE CLOTH. Shade cloths for window shades, window curtains or window blinds derive their name from the use to which they are intended to be subject- ed. They comprise a large variety of counts, widths, weights and quali- ties. The lower grades are made from low to medium qualities of stock, extending to the usual grades of print cloth fabrics. Better grades are made in all grades of cotton to the best Egyptian and Sea Island. The widths vary from a few inches for small door and house windows to three or four yards, or more, for large plate glass store windows. The gen- eral run of goods is of medium width. The narrow shades are made by cutting a wider cloth in two or more sections or narrow widths. For example, a shade cloth finishing 54 inches wide might be cut in three strips, each of which would be 18 inches in width. The MEDIUM-WIDTH GOODS are woven in one width, with two sel- vedges only, one on each side. It is not necessary to have special sel- vedges for each width (for cloth to be cut up into two or more widths) be- cause the sizing or filling put on to and into the goods during the finish- ing process prevents the edges from unraveling for a considerable time after they have been cut if they are handled with due care. The wide shade cloths are usually considerably heavier in proportion than the narrow goods on account of the extra hard usage to which they are subjected. THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURE of these goods is in the smooth, pol- ished and firm appearance of the same after *-Hey have been finished. A COTTON PABHIOS GLOSSARY. 307 They are usually finished in white or solid colors, or with a printed head- ing in addition. The cloth basis of the shade may be any one of many of the plain wov- en cloths that have been described, with the possible extension in width as noted. A shade cloth under consideration has a plain cloth for a basis of the following construction: Width, 44 inches; ends per inch, 64; picks per inch, 64; length, 100 yards; weight, 8% yards per pound; warp counts, 22s; filling counts, 24s. The finished width of this cloth is 42 inches. LOOM REQUIRED. The loom required will vary in slight details according to the weight and width of cloth required. For nar- row goods the automatic or quick run- ning plain looms will answer all re- quirements, the weave being plain in all cases, with one warp and one fill- ing only required. The principal change necessary to weave wide fabrics is in placing two or more warps in the loom, end to end, instead of one large beam. These sec- tional warps are run on shells instead of solid beams. The rod running through them all is supported on bear- ings between every two shells, as well as at the ends, when in the loom. Combining warps in this manner ob- viates the necessity of having to pre- pare them on a very wide slasher, which would otherwise be necessary to accommodate the wide beam, as well as overcomes the difllculty caus- ed by long beams warping and getting out of true. FINISHING. The cloths are woven white, then piece-dyed in the color or tint requir- ed. One method of finishing 42-inch shade goods is as follows: Shear and singe on both sides so that all loose fibres are dispensed with; wash, bleach, dye, mangle and dry. After being cooled, run through a damping machine and allow to remain in a damp state for a short time, then stretch on the belt-stretching machine to 43 inches in width, after which fill on the friction starch mangle with the following mixture: Maize or cornstarch, 100 pounds; oleine oil, 50 per cent, two quarts; carbolic acid, on©-half pint. Water sufficient to make, when boiled, 100 gal- lons. After filling, dry on , drying machine and allow to cool ; run through damping machine and al- low to lie at least two hours. Run through wide or Scotch hydraulic mangle; strip, turn and repeat the process. Strip, run through canroy machine. For white shade cloth the dyeing process is not necessary. .Fancy shade cloths, in addition to the proc- esses noted, are run through a print- ing machine for the purpose of receiv- ing a pattern at one end of each shade. The color or tinsel applied is of a firm character. The patterns are printed every so often in the piece, ac- cording to the length of shade re- quired, and extend from side to side. Carding and Spinning Particulars. For carding and spinning particu- lars the reader is referred to the warp data in the article on "Buckram," and to the filling data in the article on "Book Muslin." Dyeing Particulars. These goods are dyed on the jig in rolls of about 10 pieces of 50 yards, with sulphur colors. ECRU. One-half per cent immedial cutch G; Vs per cent immedial yellow D; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent soda ash; 20 per cent salt; afterchromed with y2 per cent chrome. OLIVEL One per cent immedial yellow D; 2 per cent immedial dark greeu B; 2 per cent immedial olive B; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt; afterohrome with 1 per cent chrome. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial blue B; 2 per cent immedial indone R; 12 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caustic soda; 25 per cent salt. DARK GREEN. Ten per cent immedial green B B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caustic soda; 25 per cent salt. MAROON. Ten per cent immedial maroon B; 10 per cent sulphide of sodium; 2 per cent caustic soda; 25 per cent salt; aftertreat with 1 per cent chrome. SLATE. One per cent immedial black N L N; 1 per cent sulphide sodium; 1 per cent caustic soda; 10 per cent salt; after- treat with % per cent chrome. RED. Eight per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent salt; aftertreat with lYz per cent fluoride of chrome. BROWN. Five per cent immedial brown B; 5 308 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY per cent immedial brown G; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 2 per cent caus- tic soda; 25 per cent salt; afterchrome with. IV2 per cent chrome. BISHOP'S LAWN. Bishop's lawn is a fine, plain woven fabric, slightly lighter in weight than linon or India linon. It is a white fabric with a blue tint and is princi- pally used for light dresses and un- derskirts. Like a great many other plain cot- ton goods,bishop's lawn varies slightly in weight, count and quality, but the latter is usually very good. The finish and blue tint seen in these goods are the principal charac- teristic features which distinguish them from other fine cotton fabrics. A cloth of the same construction and quality might be known by another name if finished differently. The ANALYSIS of a bishop's lawn of good quality in- dicates the following construction: ends per inch, 104; picks per inch 112; warp counts, 100; filling counts, 120; finished width, 27 inches. The ground of the fabric is reeded two ends per dent. The selvedge is neat, the yarns being arranged in a somewhat unusual manner. From the ground cloth outwards, they are as follows: 12 ends singles in four dents; 24 ends as 12 in six dents; 8 ends as 2 in one dent; total, 44 selvedge ends in 11 dents on each side. The selvedge and ground ends are of the same counts. CALCULATIONS. To find number of ends in warp: 104 (sley) divided ly 2 (ends per dent) equals 52 dents per inch; 52x27 (width) equals 1,404 dents occupied by warp; 1,404 — 22 for selvedges equals 1,3S2 dents for gro'ind; l,3S2x2 equals 2.764 ground ends plus 88 selvedge ends total 2,852 ends. To find width in reed, assuming 10 per cent shrinkage from warp to fin- ished cloth: ^7 inches divided by .90 or 90 per cent equals 30 inches in reed. To find weight of warp, assuming 105 yards of warp for 100 yards of cloth: 2,852 (ends) x 105 (length) To find weight of cut: 3.S65 lbs. yrarp. 3.333 lbs. fiUins. 6.898 lbs. -weight of 100 yard cut. To find number of yards per pound: 100 (length) divided by 6,898 (weight) equals 14.49, say 14-/4 yards per pound. LOOM REQUIRED. This fabric may be woven on any of the light running cam, single-box, looms. One beam only is required. On account of the large number of ends per inch, care should be taken not to have a coarser twine harness than is absolutely necessary. If difiiculty is experienced with crowded heddles and ends, the cone motion may be sub- stituted for the cams with advantage. FINISHING. After being prepared and bleached in the ordinary manner, the goods are opened out to the full width and run through a light starch, blued to suit requirements, on a starch mangle, and dried. They are then dampened, cal- endered on a "swissing" or "rolling" calender, folded and made up as re- quired. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Bishop's lawn is made in mills hav- ing the equipment of machinery as given in the third division, i. e.,* ma- chines for making fine counts of yarns. On this class of goods the sampling of the cotton as to grade and staple is a very important part in thefinished fab- ric. The counts of the yarn of the sample of the cloth taken for descrip- tion are for the warps 100s and for the filling yarn 120s. For these counts the cotton used would be Sea Island and the staple 1% inches. Every bale should be graded and stapled before it is allowed to be put into the mixing, and this mixing should be allowed to stand as long as possible and also should be as large as convenient. For this class of cotton it would be better if it were opened and put through a blower and then sent through a line of trunking, so that it would be dried out as much as possible before being work- ed. ONLY TWO PROCESSES of pickers and an opener are used for this cotton, because it should have as little beating as possible to get the 3.565 lbs. warp In 10« yards cloth. 100 (counts) X 840 To find weight of filling in 100 yardsof cloth: 112 (picks) X 100 (length) x SO (width in reed) 120 (counts) X 840 = 3.333 lbs. filling. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 509 dirt out. The usual instructions that have already been given, relative to the opener and pickers, snould be fol- lowed. The speed of the breaker beat- er (which should be of a two-bladed rigid type) should be 1,350 revolutions per minute, and the lap in front should weigh 29 pounds. These laps are put up at the back of the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. lae speed of this beater should oe 1,200 revolutions per minute, which gives the cotton passing through about 29 beats or blows per inch. For this class ol goods it is not the general custom to mix in cut waste. The picker room should be looked after to see that all the eveners are working properly and to try and make laps that don't split. In order to do this, look after THE DRAFTS to see that they are putting the cotton passing through the picker in the proper place. At the finisher picker ■ the laps, as they are taken cff,should be weighed, and all those having a va- riation of half a pound either side of standard should not be al- lowed to be put up at the card, but should be run over again. The total weight of a lap at the finisher should be 30 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the card. This card should be set close at the points be- tween the cylinder and doffer and cyl- inder and flats and also between the cylinder and licker-in, but between the licker-in and feed plate the setting should be so that the distance between the bite of the feed roll and teeth of the licker-in is just a little greater than the length of the staple. It is A GENERAL FAULT of carders to set these two parts the same for all lengths of staple, and this should be looked after and remedied, because if the proper distance is not maintained ibetween these parts the stock will be shorter in length at the front (if set too close), or will not be properly carded (if set too far apart). For long-staple cotton, some over- seers claim that it is an advantage to reduce the speed of the licker-in. Their reason for so doing is that they claim that the licker-in is nothing more or less than a beater, and if we slow down the beater for long-staple cotton, why not slow down the licker-in in the same proportion? The wire fillet used on the cylinder should be No. 110s, or No. 34s wire, and for the doffer and top flats No. 130s, or 36s wire. The SPEED OF THE FLATS should be one complete revolution ev- ery 38 minutes and the licker-in 30 revolutions per minute. Tne cards should be stripped three times a day, and ground at least once a mouth. The flats should be ground so as lo always have a sharp needle point. If possi- ble, the flats should be taken off and ground on a flat grinding machine and It will be found that the best results will be obtained. The production of a card for a week of 60 hours should be 225 pounds; the weight of the sliver, 35 grains per yard; the draft of the card being 125. In this article, we have drafted high and carded light. In some cases, for this kind of goods and cotton,overseers have been known to draft as high as 180, which makes our draft of 125 look rather small. After passing the cards, the sliver is put through either a line of drawing or a sliver lap machine, according to the lay-out of the mill. In mills that are now being built and in the old mills that are installing new machin- ery, THE COMBERS being put in are generally of the eight- head type, having laps 10 1^ inches wide. The weights, etc., that we give in this article will be for the older type of 8%-inch-width laps. The weights for larger laps may be ob- tained by proportion. We will also as- sume that the equipment is as follows: Sliver lap, ribbon lap and combers. The doubling at the sliver lap ma- chine is 14 into 1, and the weight of the sliver is 225 grains per yard. At the ribbon lap machine the doublings are 6 into 1, the weight of a yard of lap being 200 grains per yard. In some mills, the sliver laps are made a little heavier and only five doublings used at the ribbon lap. "When this is the case, the weight of a yard of sliver lap is 270 grains per yard. For the top leather rolls of these ma- chines use a VARNISH as follows: Seven ounces gelatine glue, one quart acetic acid, two tea- spoons oil of origanium. Color with burnt sienna. In dog-day weather or for slippery cotton use ground char- coal and gum arable. This varnish may be also used for the drawing frames and comber rolls (both detach- ing and those in the draw box). The laps from the ribbon lap machine are put up at the comber. At this ma- chine the percentage of waste taken out is 22 to 25. The speed is 85 nips per minute. The rolls should be var- nished at least once every two weeks, needles picked and brushes cleaned once a week. Comber percentages 310 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. should be taken every time a comber is changed from one stock to another and the percentage of four every day. Set comber same as for Indian lawn. The weight of the sliver should be about 35 grains per yard. The comb- er cans should be put up at the back of the drawing frame, being doubled 6 into 1 at both the breaker and finisher. The WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER at the finisher drawing should be 65 grains per yard. Watch the stop- motions to see that they are all in proper working order and also the roll settings; also keep the rolls well varnished. At the slubber the draw- ing is made into .80-hank roving, after which it is put through three processes of fly frames. At the first interme- diate it is made into 2.25 hank, at the second into 5, and at the fine frame in- to 20 hank for warp yarns; for filling yarns the slubber and first would be the same hank, at the second interme- diate the hank is six and at the fine frame, 24 hank. Watch the build of the bobbins, the lay, twist and ten- sion. Also keep a sharp watch on double and single, also bunches. Some- times the slubber and first intermedi- ate top leather rolls are varnished, the varnish used being a little lighter than that used for drawing frames. THE ROVING is spun into 100s from the 20-hank rov- ing on a warp frame having 1%-inch diameter ring, 5-inch traverse, and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then spooled, warped and put through the slasher, at which the following size may be used: 100 gallons of water; 75 pounds pota- to starch; 7 pounds tallow; 3 pounds Yorkshire gum; 2 pounds white soap; Boil two hours and let stand 10 hours before using. Keep agitator run- ning and size almost at boiling point. The 24-hank roving is made into 120s yarn on the mule. Dyeing Particulars. PINK. One-half per cent rose B D; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. SKY BLUE. One-quarter per cent diamine sky blue F F; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. CREAM. Two grains diamine catechine 3 G; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. ECRU. Two per cent diamine catechine 3 G; % ounce diamine fast yellow B; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. PEA GREEN. Two ounces diamine green B; 1 per cent sal soda; 10 per cent salt. RED. Five per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 20 per cent salt. SAGE GREEN. One per cent diamine green G; 1 per cent sal soda; 15 per cent salt. WINE. Four per cent diamine Bordeaux B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. SCARLET. Three per cent diamine scarlet B; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. ROYAL BLUE. Five per cent diamine sky blue; 2 per cent sal soda; 25 per cent salt. ♦-♦-♦ ROBES, A cotton fabric with an unglazed surface, printed on one side, in high- ly colored patterns, this fabric is made up into robes, wrappers or gowns, hence the name. The fabric was origi- nally produced in cashmere effects, and used primarily as a dress fabric. This fabric, however, resembles in point of texture and general appear- ance the cloth known as "cretonne," which is also a printed cloth, but us^ principally for furniture coverings, curtains, comfortables and such pur- poses. The term robes is applied to both twilled and plain woven fabrics. The fabric used for robes is usually made from a 64-square printing cloth, or its equivalent, while the fabric used for household purposes is made from various textures. The CHARACTER OF PATTERNS for robes is almost without limit, but the scale, or size of the figure in the design, however, should not be too large, as the numerous folds would destroy the effect of the repeat of the design. The designs best suited for this class of goods are small floral or geometrical figures, distributed in such a manner that they will not appear in the finished garment in rows or lines, but rather in an all-over effect, so that the various figiires constituting the design may be seen at a glance. THE COLORINGS mav be almost anv conceivable com- A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 311 binationimaginable.providing of course that there be harmony in the col- ors used. The number of colors used varies from 4 to 10 different shades, the darker colors usually forming the background, while the lighter and brighter colors form the figures. In regard to the construction for these fabrics the designer has little in the way of ingenuity, the important feature of the goods depending on the printing machine. The fabric is composed of plain cotton yarn with THE COUNTS varying very little, a common texture being 64 ends and 64 picks, of l-30s both warp and filling, sometimes ar- ranged 70 ends and 58 picks, another texture being made with 64 ends and 48 picks, l-30s warp and 1-263 filling, made in widths from 27 to 36 inches. The goods are woven on high speed looms. The Northrop loom is well adapted for this class of goods. The cost of weaving is an important con- sideration in the production of these goods, as the retail price does not war- rant an unnecessary expense. FINISHING. The goods, after being woven, are prepared for the printer by boiling off, then passed over heated cylinders to dry, after which they are ready for printing. After the printing process they are ready for the merchant. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns to make robes are manufactured in the first division of mills as given in a previous article. The mixture for this cloth varies according to the mill making the goods and also the quality of the goods required of the manufacturer. Generally speaking, there is a certain percentage of waste used for this class of goods, and not only the per- centage differs, but the quality of the waste used also. Some mills will use only comber waste, and other mills only comber and card waste, while other mills will use any kind of waste they can obtain, and run it through. The mixing plays an Impor- tant part and the percentage of waste put in varies from 10 to 100 per cent. Production and plenty of it is the cry of the owners making this class of goods. This being the case, q.uality is somewhat lacking. To make up for this, the goods are brushed, which has a twofold advantage. It gives a NAP to the goods, as well as hides the neps in the cloth. When good raw stock is used, the length of staple is very short, rarely being over seven-eighths of an inch in length. The counts for the sample of cloth under description are 30s for both warp and filling. The mixings are made, as before stated, large and with the proper proportion of waste mixed in. This is then run through three processes of pickers,first being run through an opener. This opener has a fan, which makes 165 rev- olutions and carries the cotton to the aprons of thebreaker picker and leaves the cotton in an open, airy state. This lattice or apron carries the cotton to the feed rolls of the beater. This beater is of the two-bladed type and makes 1,500 revolutions per minute. The proper drafts should be maintained at both pickers, so that a hard lap will be niade. There are several methods by which, it is claimed, the laps "may be made and will run off smoothly and without licking, but as near as can be found out by experimenting, no one remedy will fill all conditions. Judg- ment at this point is needed. The weight of a full lap at the head end of the breaker picker should be about 16 ounces per yard. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and dou- bled four into one. This picker is equipped with a two-bladed rigid type of beater and has a speed of 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. THE TOTAL WEIGHT of a lap from this machine is 37 pounds or a 10-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled four into one. This picker has the same style of beater as the oth- er two; the speed is, however, slightly reduced, being 1,375 revolutions per minute. The total weight of a lap is 39 pounds, or a 14i^-ounce lap. In some mills they omit the intermediate process of pickers, using just the breaker and finisher, and for this class of goods would advise two processes of picking. The laps are put up at the card. For this class of work the draft of the card does not exceed 90 and very often is not more than 85. The card fillet used on both the doffer and cylinder, as well as the fiats, is coarse. The general count used is No. 33 wire or No. 100s for cylinder and No. 35 or No. 120s count foi' the doffer and flats. The settings used for this class of work are similar to those given for in- digo prints. The speed of the cylinder' is 165 revolutions per minute; licker- in, 350 revolutions per minute; flats, one complete revolution every 50 min- utes. The weight of the sliver is 65 312 A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY, grains per yard, and the production is from 850 to 1,000 pounds per week of 60 hours, according to the quality and quantity required. THE CARD for this class of work should be ground once a month and stripped twice a day, although in some instances the doffer is stripped a third time. The waste ta- ken out should not exceed 8 per cent. After leaving the card tne sliver is put through two processes of drawing, the doublings at the breaker being six into one, and at the finisher six into one. The weight of a yard of sliver is 7-5 grains. The speed of the front roll largely depends on the call for draw- ing, and the manner in which the room is balanced. As frequently happens, the drawing frame is the machine to get an increase in speed so as to keep up with the slubbers or cards, and to do so the speed of the front roll is increased. The speed varies from 325 to 450 revolutions per minute, accord- ing to requirements. As the drawing frame is the last machine that can really be said to even the silver, care should be taken to see that all stop- motions are in perfect working order, and that they act quickly so as to pre- vent an end passing through before the frame stops. Whole sets of drawing or card sliver should not be put up at the back of the frame, because it tends to make uneven jarn. If a size at the front be taken when the tops of a can are running through, it will be found to be heavier than the standard; the middle about the standard, and when the can is almost empty it will size light. If the cans are equipped with springs, it will help overcome this defect to a large extent, and It will also help to stop the "breaking back" of the ends. THE DRAWING is put up at the back of the slubber and made into .60-hank roving, after which it passes through two processes of fly frames and is made into 2-hank roving at the intermediate, and 6 at the fine frame. The proper lay of the roving on the bobbin is 14 rows per inch for the 2 hank, and 33 lays per inch for the 6 hank roving. Twist jack roving so that it will bear its own weight when put in the creels at the successive machines. Be particularly careful about single, double and bunch- es. Sizing should be accomplished at the picker as follows: Every fin- isher lap should be weighed and if the weight varies more than half a pound, either side of standard weighty it is put back to be run over again. The cards should be sized once a week. The drawing frame finisher should be sized four times a day, and a varia- tion of two grains to the yard either side of standard should mean a change. The fine roving is sized once a day and there is no hard and fast rule for changing. The 6-hank roving is spun into 30s warp yarn on the spinning frame, two into one, on a frame having a 1%-inch diameter ring, 2?4-inch gauge of spin- dle, 61/^-inch traverse, and a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per min- ute. As soft a twist as possible is used so that it will nap well. The yarn is next spooled and warped, and run through a slasher. The 6-hank roving for the filling yarn is spun into 30s filling at the mule, as it requires a ■ soft twist, for reasons before stated. After being spun it is taken to the conditioning room and remains there until wanted for use. Dyeing Particulars. NAVY BLUE. Ten per cent immedial indone blue 2 B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. GREEN. Eight per cent immedial green G G; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. RED. Six per cent diamine fast red F; 2 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glau- ber's; aftertreat with 2 per cent fluo- ride of chrome. YELLOW. Five per cent immedial yellow G G; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. OLIVE. Four per cent immedial olive 3 G; 4 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. BROWN. Five per cent immedial brown B; 5 per cent immedial cutch O; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent so- da ash. MYRTLE GREEN. Eight per cent immedial dark green B; 8 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. ORANGE. Ten per cent immedial orange C; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. BORDEAUX. Ten per cent immedial Bordeaux G; A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 30 per cent sodium sulphide; 4 per cent S€da ash; 40 per cent salt. SLATE. One per cent immedial black N N; 2 per cent soda ash; 1 per cent sodi- um sulphide; 25 per cent salt. ECRU. One per cent immedial cutch G; % per cent immedial yellow D; 2 per cent sodium sulphate; 25 per cent salt. BLACK. Six per cent immedial brilliant black 5 B V; 6 per cent sodium sulphide ; 4 per cent soda ash; 50 per cent salt. bengal' stripes. Bengal stripes is a name given to a type of gingham consisting of white and colored stripes, alternately ar- ranged in small effects in regular order, the colored yarn having been dyed with Bengal indigo. They were originally made in Ben- gal, India, the home of some of the many species of the plant from which indigo is extracted, Indigo Fera, and derive their name from that fact. They differ from some other types of strip- ed ginghams only in having colored warp yarns that have been dyed with Bengal indigo. INDIGO has been used as a- dyestuff for hun- dreds of years and has attained a rep- utation for itself that is responsible for a continued call for indigo-dyed goods in the market, although similar appearing goods may be made much mere cheaply with modern aniline dyes. Goods dyed with the latter possess more merit than most of the so-called indigo-dyed goods, the colors of which do not penetrate be- yond the surface of the yarns. Indigo dyeing, if done properly, re- quires more time than is now thought advisable or necessary to devote to any ordinary class of dyed goods and has been substituted to a very large extent by anilines. The amount of in- digo used has been steadily growing less for a number* of years, and it ap- pears probable that there will b6"\rery little of it used in the commercial world a few years hence. USES OP BENGAL STRIPES. Bengal stripes are used principally for skirtings, aprons, etc. Fig. 1 is an illustration of a typical fabric, the analysis of which shows it to be an article that can be depended upon to wear well. The warp yarns are arranged 8 of blue and 4 of white, alternately, the filling being all white. The white yarn in both warp and filling has been bleached before being woven. The blue warp yarn was dyed in the skein with Bengal indigo. The fabric illL?strated is practically a warp face cloth, the warp yarn Fig-. 1. showing very prominently in alternate blue and white stripes, whereas the filling is almost hidden. Several fac- tors tend to produce this effect, among which may be mentioned, first that two out of every three ends are raised on each pick, the weave being the 3-end warp flush twill to the left (Fig. 2); Fig. 2. second, that the warp yarns are hard- er twisted than the filling yarns and are approximately twice as heavy; third that the cloth contains consid- erably more ends than picks per inch. ANALYSIS. An analysis of the fabric shows the following construction data: Finished width, 29.7 inches; ends per inch, 67.2; picks per inch, 48; warp pattern, 8 blue and 4 white; warp counts. 9s; fill- ing counts, 16s; yards per pound, 2.5. Perhaps the simplest method of counting the number of ends per inch in a stripe pattern, and the most ac- curate, is to count the number of ends in each pattern; or if the latter is small, count several patterns on a given width and calculate accordingly. For example, there are 12 ends per pattern in Fig. 1 and 7 patterns on 1^ inches. 7 (ends) x 12 (patterns) =: 47.2 ends per Inch. 1.25 (inches) 314 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. The greater the width measured and the number of patterns counted,the less the liability of error. When the full width of cloth is available for analy- sis purposes, it is advisable to measure and count the whole number of com- plete patterns, omitting sections of patterns and selvedges. The layout of the entire warp is as follows: White White for sel- for vedges. ground. Blue. }0 as 9 White. Blue. s= 10 10 as 9 164 times = 676 ends In the warp. 676+1,320 = 1,S The selvedge ends, with the exception of the two outer ends on each side, ai-e drawn single. The two ends at each side are drawn together as one. The entire 164 complete patterns in the above warp layout occupy 29^/4 inches in the cloth. 12 X 164 29.25 = 67.2 ends per inch. LOOM REQUIRED. These goods may be woven on sin- gle box cam or dobby looms, the for- mer preferred. Six harnesses would be necessary if wire heddles were used on a dobby loom, whereas three twine harnesses would be sufficient. The ends are drawn in straight and the selvedges drawn the same as the ground yarns, one end through each heddle and three ends per dent. FINISHING. There is practically no finish given these goods, beyond burling, brush- ing and making up. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yarns of which Bengal stripes are made are manufactured in mills of the first division as given in a pre- vious article. The method of mixing the cotton in these mills would prob- ably be by hand. In the up-to-date mills, however, openers are employed, especially if a large amount of cot- ton is used. The method generally used in such a case is to have several high-speed openers attached in a row the cotton being delivered on an end- less apron, which carries it to a blow- er. This fan blows the cotton to the picker room to a condenser, which in turn deposits the open cotton upon an endless apron, which runs over the mixing bins. At every bin there is a chute which, when di'opped, allows the .cotton to be dropped into the bin. AN IMPORTANT POINT to look out for, when this method is used,is the danger of fire. Bythis meth- od the cotton is thoroughly opened and may be used as fast as delivered, as it is in a loose, fluffy, dried-out con- dition. The number of openers used is according to the amount of cotton re- quired by the mill. When this method is employed.the good sliver up to the slubber is put into the centre hopper. This insures a thorough and uniform mixing of this waste^ which is always the "bugbear" of cotton mills. The stock used for Bengal stripes varies according to the quality of cloth de- sired, but generally a %-inch to 1 inch staple is used. An opener and two processes of picking are used. THE HOPPER of the opener should be well filled and is connected directly with the breaker picker. The speed of this beater, which is of the three-bladed rigid type, is 1,- 400 revolutions per minute. In this breaker picker there are two beaters and two sets of cages. The forward beater is a two-bladed beater and the speed of this is also 1,400 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the front end is 40 pounds or a 20-ounce lap. The picker tenders generally allow this lap to be made as large as possible, but the weight per yard remains the same. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into 1. This picker is equipped with either a two-bladed rig- id or a pin beater; in either case the sneed is 1,450 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap is 46 pounds net for a 52-yard lap, or about a 141/^ -ounce lap. This lap is put up AT THE CARD, the draft of which should not exceed 100. The speed of the cylinder should be 165 revolutions per minute; licker- in, 375 revolutions per minute, and flats one complete revolution every 45 min- utes (110 flats). The flllet of the cyl- inder should be No. 33s wire or 100s and for the doffer and top flats No. 34s wire or 110s. The cards should be set and ground the same as given for indigo prints. The cards should be stripped three times a day of 10^^ hours. The weight of the sliver per yard should be 55 grains and the pro- duction 900 pounds for a week of 60 hours. This sliver is put through two processes of drawing, six ends up at both the breaker and finisher draw- ing. The weight of the sliver is 75 grains at the finisher. The speed of the front roll is 400 revolutions per minute. The drawing should be sized A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 315 three times a day. For this class of work either metallic or leather cov- ered top rolls may be used, but in eith- er case should be looked after to see that they are ir perfect condition. Watch the STOP-MOTIONS to see that they are in perfect work- ing condition, and that the frame tenders do not block them up with cot- ton to keep them from working. The drawing sliver is now put up to the slubber, where it is made into .40- hank roving. Be careful to set the bottom steel rolls properly, so as to ob- tain the best results, and watch the twist and tension. The slubber roving is made into 1 hank for warp and 1.20 hank for filling at the first interme- diate and at the second or (in this case) the five frame is made into 2.25 hank for the warp and B.50 for the filling yarii. These rovings are then ta- ken to the spinning room and at the warp frame made into 9s on a frame having a 3i/4-inch gauge, 2%-inch di- ameter ring and a 7-inch traverse. This is then spooled, warped and put through a slasher. The roving for filling is spun into 16s on a filling frame having a G% to 7-inch traverse, 1%-inch diameter ring and a 2%-inch gauge. This yarn is then conditioned. TURKEY RED, Turkey red is a name given to fab- rics that have been subjected to the Turkey red dyeing process. They are usually cloths constructed with the • plain or small twill weaves, and are found in various widths. They are used for signal flags, dress goods and for many other purposes where a bright red color that will withstand severe tests of light, wear and weath- er is required. The analysis "of two characteristic fabrics shows the fol- lowing construction data: Sample 1. Plain weave; 64 ends and 52 picks per inch; 30s yarn in both warp and filling. A fabric of this type could be woven on either automatic or ordinary plain cloth looms. Sample 2. Three end twill weave, for ground; 66 ends and 72 picks per inch; 36s warp for the ground of the cloth, and 2-36'S wai'p for the selvedg- es; 24s filling. The ground of this sample is drawn one end in each hed- ama maa Fig. 1. Dyeing Particulars. BLUE. Eight per cent immedial indogene G C L cone; 10 per cent sulphide so- dium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BLACK. Ten per cent immedial black N R T; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. BROWN. Five per cent immedial cutch O; 5 per cent immedial brown B R; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent Glauber's salt. OLIVE. Five per cent immedial olive B; 5 per cent sulphide sodium; 25 per cent salt; 3 per cent soda ash. DARK GREEN. Ten per cent immedial dark green B; 10 per cent sulphide sodium; 30 per cent salt; 4 per cent soda ash. MAROON. Eight per cent immedial maroon B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 4 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt. Fig. 2. die and three ends in each dent. The selvedges weave two ply ends as one, 2 picks in each shed (Fig. 2), with catch thread on the out- side, and are reeded 2 ends per dent. The two ply ends, as one, represent 4 single strands of yarn in each dent. There are 16 ply yarns in each selvedge. It would be advisable to weave a fab- ric of this character on a dobby, in preference to a cam loom, because of the difference in weave of selvedges and gi'ound. The former being on 4 and the latter on 3 picks necessitates 12 picks before they repeat together. Six harnesses would be required for the ground ends, and 3 for the sel- vedge ends, one of which would be for the catch thread. CALCULATIONS. In analyzing the twill fabric, a piece 2% X 4 Inches was found to weigh 12 grains, i. e., 10 square inches weigh 12 grains. 12 divided by 10 equals 1.2 grains per square inch. The average number of the yarn was found as follows: 66 (ends) plus 72 31 G A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. (picks) equals 138 inches, which, weigh 1.2 grains. 138 divided by 1.2 equals 115 inches per grain. 115 plus 10 per cent (for take up) equals 126 inches of yarn per grain. 126 times .2314 equals 29.1, say 29, average numher. By comparing the relative sizes of the yarns, warp and filling, by cross- ing and twisting them, it was found that 18 ends of warp were of the same diameter as 12 picks of filling. Assuming the warp counts to he 86s, the filling counts were found as follows: 138 (sum of sley and pick) divided by 29 (average numiber) equals 4.76. 66 (sley or ends per inch) divided by 36 (warp number) equals 1.83; total 2.93. 72 (picks) divided by 2.93 equals 24.5, say 24, filling required. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The counts of .the yarns of which Turkey red is made vary according to the quality desired. The stock being used also varies in length of staple and also grade. In one of the samples tak~ en for this article the warp yarn is l-36s and the filling yarn is l-24s. For these yarns and quality of cloth the staple of the cotton used would be 15-16 of an inch in length and of a good grade. THE MACHINERY USED would be found in the second division of mills as given in a previous article. All bales of cotton should be graded and sampled before being put into the mixing and all those not up to grade and length of staple should be placed one side and not used in the mixing. If the mill is up-to-date or of a recent construction the method of mixing would be as described in the last arti- cle. In older mills the cotton would be mixed by hand. If the latter meth- od is employed, the mixing should be made from as many bales as possible and allowed to stand as long as pos- sible to dry out. PERIODS OP MIXING of course vary according to the output of the mill in which the cloth is made. If space is plenty, which is not gen- erally the case, a double mixing should be made, one mixing being used while the other is drying out, thus insuring that green cotton is not used. The cot- ton is then put through an opener and three processes of picking. The hop- per of the opener should always be kept at least half full of cotton and the lifting apron should work easily and care should be taken to see that the slats are all Avhole. The pin beat- er should be adjusted so as to feed the proper amount of cotton to the breaker picker. This picker is gener- ally of a combination type, having two sets of beaters and two sets of cages. The breaker beater speed is about 1,- ' 400 revolutions per minute, and is of a three-bladed, rigid type. The forward beater is generally of a two-bladed, rigid type, and its speed is 1,400 revo- lutions per minute. The WEIGHT OF THE LAP at this picker is 40 pounds, or a 16- ounce lap. These laps are put up at the intermediate picker and doubled 4 into 1. This machine has a single beater of two blades, rigid type, the speed of which is 1,425 revolutions per minute. The weight of lap at this ma- chine is 38 pounds or a 12-ounce lap. These are put up at the finisher piclcer and doubled 4 into 1. The weight of a lap at the head end of this frame Is 48 pounds or a 14i^ -ounce lap. In the picker room care should be taken to see that the drafts are properly reg- ulated and that the eveners are work- ing properly, and also that the cotton is thrown upon the top cage to help prevent splitting laps. Every lap should be weighed and a variation or one-half pound either side of stand- ard weight is allowed. All laps vary- ing over or under this allowance should be put back and run over again. Roving waste is mixed in the good cotton in many ways, one of which has been previously given. The laps are then put up at the card. At this ma- chine the speed of the licker-in should be 375 revolutions per minute. The flats should make one complete revo- lution every 45 minutes. The wire fillet used should be No. 33 or 100 for cylinder and No. 35 or 120s for the doffer and top flats. THE CARD SETTINGS should be the same as given in a pre- vious article on indigo prints. Strip three times a day for a 10%-houi day and grind at least once a month. Keep the flats free froim fly and all quick motions well oiled, especially the main cylinder bearings, which, if not proper- ly attended to, beat up and cduse blis- tering. The draft of this card should be about 100; the weight of the sliver is 60 grains per yard and the production is 700 pounds for a week of 60 hours. Watch the wire fillet to keep it sharp. For this sample we will consider the yarns to be combed. When this is the case, the sliver is taken from the card and put through the sliver lap A COTTON PABRIOS GLOSSARY. 317 machine, ribbon lap machine and the comber, or it may be taken from the card and put through a process of drawing, sliver lap and then to the comber. We will consider the former method. Here again a great deal de- pends on the size and make of comber being used. For this article we will take the older styles of six-head, 8%- inch lap, combers. The weight of a yard of lap at the sliver lap machine (doublings being 14 into 1) would be 295 grains. At the rib'oon lap machine the doublings would be 6 into 1, and the weight of lap 260 to 275 grains per yard. The laps are put up at the combers and doubled G into 1. The weight of the sliver is 48 grains per yard. Sixteen per cent of waste is taken out at the comber. The comber sliver is next put through two proc- esses of DRAWING FRAMES. The weight of a yard of sliver at the finisher is 70 grains and the doublings 6 into 1 at each process. Size four times a day and don't skip a size. This sliver is put up at the slubber and made into .60 hank roving. For the warp yarn this is put through two processes of fly frames; at the first in- termediate it is made into 2.25 hank and at the fine into 7.50 hank. This is taken to the ring frame and spun into 36s on a frame with a 2%-lnch gauge, 1 9-16-inch diameter ring, and a 6-inch traverse, the spindle speed being 9,600 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then taken and spooled, warped and slashed. The slubber roving for the filling is also put through two processes of fly frames. At the flrst intermediate it is made into 2 hank and at the sec- ond into 5 hank, after which it is spun into 30s filling yarn on a frame with a 2%-inch gauge, 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch traverse, and spindle speed of 7,350 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then taken and conditioned. Dyeing Particulars. . The dyeing of Turkey red has been handed down from generation to gen- eration for the last 500 years, and pos- sibly long before that time. The city of Adrianople, and also the city of Salonica, were formerly famous for this celebrated color. It is not so an- cient as indigo blue, because the clothes around mummies in Egypt 2,000 years B. C. have indigo colors on them. The original Turkey red was a process of long duration. Thir- ty days were often consumed before the finished cloth or yarn was pro- duced. The cloth was oiled in olive oil, dried, and hung up in long chambers for some days, to age the goods, and fix the oil in the fihre. The goods were then oiled again, and aged, the process being repeated several times. The short process of Turkey red is to oil with a solution of Turkey red oil, 20 per cent, and then dry. Oil again and dry, and allow to re- main for a few hours in that state, and pass through a solu- tion of acetate of alumina at ti degrees Tw. Dry in hot air and pass through a dunging bath of cow dung and bi-arseniate of soda. Tnis process will take away the surplus mordant from the cloth, and fix the alumina in the fibre. The cloth is well washed in water, and then dyed with about 15 per cent alizarine red paste, 4 per cent bullock's blood, 1% per cent nut- galls, and enoug'h acetate of lime to correct the water. The goods are dyed for one hour, and well rinsed, dried and passed through a solution of furkey red oil, about 5 per cent, dried, and steamed for one hour. The goods are then well soaped in a strong bath of hot soap, and well rinsed, and finished as re- quired. ^-»-> LAMP WICKING, Lamp wicking is usually constructed of coarse low-grade cotton yarns. There are three general forms or types: hraid wicking, flat wicking and round, hose or tube wicking. They are made in sizes varying from a small fractio'n of an inch, in the braid and flat types, for miners' and similar lamps, tO' several inches in width, in the flat and round types, for large oil lamps and stoves. The principal objects sought to be secured in these goods are strengtli. mamaa DDIDS BaBDD ■DDDS Fig. 1. PBFTBFBFTBFBr ■niDBaDBDHDa nDBfflDDDBEBDDDB ■■■aaBBBDDaBa ■aafflDBDDaiCBDD A A A A 6 times Fig. 2. onBDnDBDDnBnngBnDDBDnnBDODBDD ■■■□■BBDBBBDaflBaBBBDBBflnBBflDB ■■naSnnDSDDDBDDDBnDDJDCDBDDDB BDBBaaBBBDBBBDBBflaBBBDBBBaBBB ^A A A A A A AAA 3 times Fig. 3. thickness qualities. and moisture-absorbing 318 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. BRAID WICKING. This differs from a solid braid, as in braided rope and clothes lines, in hav- ing a core of very soft, coarse roving, around which have been braided finer yarns of a good strength and quality. There are 10 strands of roving for the core and 32 ends of fine 2-ply mercer- ized yarn for the braided covering. The latter imparts the requisite strength to the fabric, while the other desirable qualities are furnished by the roving. This wick is so constructed that the core could be withdrawn without interfering with the construc- tion of the covering. There are about 72 yards per pound. FLAT WICKING. There are three methods adopted for making heavy, thick fabrics: First, by means of coarse yarns; second, by means of compound structures of. cloth; third, by combining the first and second methods. Flat lamp wlcking requires an extra large surface, one deeper than can or- dinarily be obtained by using coarse yarns in a single weave structure. It is usually woven with coarse warp yarns and comparatively fine, strong filling yarns, with double plain weaves of equal structure arranged 1 and 1 in both warp and filling, the two single fabrics being bound together into one compound fabric by other yarns, termed ties or binders, which interlace with both with more or less frequency. Where as firm a structure as is pos- sible is wanted, the ties are arranged as extras to work the single plain weave, as shown by the crosses in Fig. 1. This entire figure is the base weave upon which the design for this wick- ing has been constructed. Ends 1 to 4, repeated, would form a tube or hose pipe fabric, the picks going first into one cloth and then the other on alter- nate picks. Solid type shows the face weave, type e the back weave, type face ends raised when back picks are inserted. Back ends are depressed on picks 1 and 3, when face picks are in- serted. The complete weave is shown in Fig. 2, and is on 38 ends and 4 picks. Letter F indicates face ends. B in- dicates back ends. T indicates ties. The arrows indicate where the ends are divided by the reed, ei^ht dents being used. The construction data of this wick- ing is as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cot- ton; filling, 2-ply IBs cotton; width, % inch; ends in wick, 38, of which seven are ties; picks per inch, ISVz. The warp contains very little twist in the single strands and only five turns per inch in the ply yarn. There are not any selvedges such as are usually made on other types of goods. ROUND, HOSE OR TUBE WICKING. This wicking has been made with weave Fig. 3, with two ends working to- gether as one. An examination of this will show that it is constructed on the same principle as the first four ends of Fig. 1, the two cloths being tied only at the sides where the filling changes from interlacing with one series at ends to the other series every pick. The arrows indicate where the ends are reeded. The two outer dents on each side contain only four ends eacli, whereas the remainder of the warp is reeded six ends (3 doubles) per dent The construction of this wickingi is as follows: Warp, 2-ply 5s cotton' soft twisted; filling, 3-ply l&s cotton; widtli, 1% inches; ends in wick, 106 as 53; picks per inch, 28; yards per pound, 15. The warp yarns are arranged 52 ends of white and 1 of blue, repeated once. LOOM REQUIRED. For braid wicking a braiding ma- chine is required. For fiat and round wicking, narrow ware cam looms, vary- ing in construction according to the weight and width of wicking to be woven, are used. For the narrow wicking an ordinary tape loom may be used, in which each wicking has Its separate warp or warps. The warps for wide wicking are. usually run on wide beams, and the yarn divided in the loom. In order to make a soft wicking on these the ty- ing ends are run from a beam as in an ordinary loom. The other yarns are run from one or two separate beams, and are regulated by an at- tachment TvTiich draws them forward in a positive manner in order to avoid the strain usually caused wben the yarn has to draw the beam forward. Each of the fabrics under considera- tion has been woven from one beam. In the flat wicking the plain ends work tighter than the other ends on account of the larger number of interlacings. This causes them to sink below the plane occupied by the double cloth ends and also causes the latter to be and appear somewhat loose. FINISHING. There is practically no finishing given these goods, as they are simply cut into definite lengths and packed, after being woven. The yarn for some of the wicking is bleached or dyed be- fore being woven. Where colored yarns are used, they are usually ar- ranged in the warp to make a striped fabric. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Manufacturers of wicking generally buy their yarns from cotton yarn A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 319 mills and it is in this latter class of mills that coarse and fine counts of yarns are made. Generally speaking, the so-called yarn mills do not belong to any of the divisions of mills given in a previous article, but are rather in a class or division by themselves, being ready and equipped to fill orders for all counts of yarn, either carded or combed. Of course there are yarn mills making a specialty of fine yams, but, generally speaking, this class of mills make yarn for the knitting trade, which as a rule does not call for as high counts of yarn as a fine goods mill. ' In this class of mills a great many MORE CHANGES are made than in mills making cloth, Some of the latter mills' card rooms running from one year's end to the next without a change in the hank rov- ing or stock, whereas in the yarn mills changes are made daily. This is on ac- count of filling the orders for small knitting plants, of which there are a great number throughout the country. Generally speaking, more care has to be used in a yarn miil than in a cloth mill, both on account of the many changes and also on account of the yarn being sold and not woven in the same mill, where the smaller defects may be covered. Of course, in both mills the yarn should run as even as possible, but this fault should be look- ed after particularly in yarn mills. In yarn mills THE TWIST of the yarn is less than in cloth mills, and thie class of mills is generally equipped with mules instead of spin- ning frames to obtain this result. Par- ticular care should be taken in yarn mills to see that no "mix-ups" occur in any part of the card room on ac- count of the carelessness of those changing the gears, and it is a good idea to have specially prepared forms to be filled out when each change is made at the slubbers, fly frames and mules or spinning frames. After these forms are made out by the one mak- ing the change, they should be handed in and checked by the overseer. For making the tube wicking, the counts of the yarn are as follows: 2-ply 5s warp soft twist and 3-ply 15s regu- lar twist, while the filling or centre portion or core is made up of 2-ply 1 hank roving. These counts of yarn are all made from the same STAPLE AND GRADE of cotton, generally cotton from % to 1 inch in staple of a good grade being used. In large mills an opening shed is built and the cotton is opened and fed to the opener hoppers or feeders, several being placed in a row and from here blown over to the mill prop- er, where it is received and carried by arrangements of endless belts to its proper bins. When the cotton is thus opened it is in a dry, fluffy state and may be used at once and does not have to stand, as is the case when the cot- ton is mixed by the hand method, which has been previously described. The cotton is put through a feeder and three processes of pickers. The feeder picker should always be kept filled up with cotton, so that the lift- ing apron will always be filled up. The breaker beater is equipped with two sets of cages and two beaters. The breaker beater has three arms and blades, and its speed is 1,400 revolu- tions per minute. THE FRONT BEATER has two blades and its speed is also 1,- 400 revolutions per minute, but it must be remembered that the cotton does not receive as much beating as it does at the three-bladed beater,on account of having one less blade. The weight of a yard of lap at the machine is 16 ounces. On the breaker picker there is no even- er and the amount of cotton fed is regulated by the distance of the pin or stripping beater from the lifting apron. The laps from this machine are put up and doubled 4 into 1 at the intermediate picker. This picker is generally equipped with a two-bladed beater, its speed being 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of a yard of lap at the front is 12 ounces. This picker has an evener, which should be looked after carefully to see that it is doing Its duty. The laps from this picker are put up at the FINISHER PICKER, and doubled 4 into 1. This picker may be equipped with either a two-bladed rigid beater or a pin beater which has three arms equipped with pins. If thb latter beater is used, the speed for this style should be 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of a 50-v-ard lap should be 46 pounds or a 14.7-ounce per yard lap. Every lap should be weighed and a variation of one-half a pound either side of standard allowed. All laps which vary more than this should be put back to be run over again. Care should be taken to see that every lap is weighed, and if laps do not weigh within the limit, the evener should be 320 A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. adjusted to allow the next lap to come within this weight limit. These laps are put up at the card, the draft of which should not exceed 100. The speed of the flats should be one revolu- tion ever J' 40 minutes (110 flats) ; the speed of the llcker-in 300 revolutions per minute and the doffer about 13^^ revolutions per minute. The gener- al instruction for settings, grind- ing and stripping given previously may be followed. The PRODUCTION OF A CARD for 60 hours for this class of work is 850 pounds and the weight of the sliver 65 grains per yard. If the yarn is combed, it passes through the sliver lap machine, where it is doubled 16 in- to 1 for an 8%-inch lap, the weight per yard being 420 grains. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at this machine is 440 grains for a lOi/^-inch lap. The rib- bon lap machines should be sized twice a day and a variation of seven grains per yard allowed before chang- ing the draft gear. These laps are put up on an 8-head comber and dou- bled 8 into 1. The weight of a yard of sliver at the delivery end of this machine should be about 65 grains per yard. THE SAME SETTINGS and timing for this machine may be used as have been given previously for a 6-head, 8%-inch lap comber of the Heilman type of combers. The per- centage of waste taken out is 18. This sliver is then put through two process- es of drawing, the weight at the fin- isher drawing being 70 grains per yard. If the cotton is not combed, three processes of drawing frames are used, the weight of the sliver being the same as when combed. Size drawing four times a day, allowing two grains either side of standard weight. The draw- ing sliver is next put through the slub- ber and made into .40 hank roving. From here it is passed to the first in- termediate fly frame and made into 1 hank roving. The roving for the core is twisted slightly more than that used for the warp and filling yarns, gener- ally 1 or 2 less teeth used on the twist gear being sufficient. The rov- ing for the core is then twisted into 2- ply. For the warp yarn the yarn is soft spun at the mule into 5s yarn and then twisted into 2-ply yarn. For the filling yarn the first intermediate rov- ing requires one more process of fiy frames, which makes it into 3-hank roving. This is taken either to the mule room or the spinning room and spun into 15?, after which it is twisted, being made into 2-ply 15s yarn. The rules and instructions for the top rolls given in previous articles may also be applied to this article. EOLIENHE, Bolienne is the name applied to a fine dress fabric characterized by having the filling of a much coars- er count than the warp, and in consequence producing a cord- ed effect across the breadth of the goods. This class of goods is made up of a raw silk warp and either cot- ton or wotristed filling, with the warp ends per linch greatly in excess of picks per inch. In fabrics constructed on this basis THE WARP THREADS practically cover the filling and pro- duce — with a silk warp — a very glossy fabric, another feature of an eolienne. This fabric finds favor with the fem- inine sex. practically the year around, being very popular for dressy indoor occasions in the cooler periods of the year, as well as dressy outdoor wear for summer. The goods are made up in the gray, then dyed in the piece, in any color that the trade desires. The darker shades find most favor for fall and winter use, while the lighter shades are preferred for summer wear. Eo- liemne VARIES IN WIDTH. The cotton filling fabric finishcesses of speed- ers for 20s yam, the hank roving at each process being 1.50 at first, and 4 at second. This is spun into 20s on a frame with a two-inch diameter ring; 7-inch traverse; 21.24 twist per inch, and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutions per minute, after which the yarn is spooled and twisted into 2-20s and then warped and put through a slasher. The slubber roving for 45s is put through two processes, the hank roving at each being 2.50 at first and 10 hank at the fine. This roving is spun into 45s on a frame with li/4-inch diameter ring; 5i/^- inch traverse; 25 -f twist per inch and a spindle speed of 8,500 revolu- tions per minute. The yarn is tlien twisted into 3-45s yarn and condition- ed. Dyeing Particulars. WINE. 6 per cent brilliant diamine Bor- deaux R; 3 per cent sal soda; 30 per cent Glauber's; topped with 1 per cent saffranine. NAVY BLUE. 8 per cent immedial indogene B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped with 1 per cent brilliant green G; 1 per cent methyl violet B. OLIVE. 6 per cent katigen olive G N; 2 per cent katigen green 2 B; 1 per cent kat- igen brown B; topped with 1 per cent auramine; 1 per cent brilliant green crys. BROWN. 6 per cent immedial cutch G; 2 per cent immedial yellow D; 1 per cent immedial brown B; 10 per cent sul- phide of soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per cent auramine; 2 per cent Bismarck brown. SLATE. 3 per cent immedial black N N; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped with 4 ounces methyl violet B; 1 ounce brilliant green B. GRAY. 1 per cent immedial black N N; 2 ounces immedial yellow D; topped with 2 ounces brilliant green B; 2 ounces methyl violet B. FAWN BROWN. 4 per cent immedial brown B; 2 per cent immedial brown R R; 6 per cent sulphide soda; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped with 2 per cent Bismarck brown R. BOTTLE GREEN. 6 per cent immedial green B B; 2 per cent immedial dark green B; 8 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; topped with 1 per cent brilliant green B. PEACOCK GREEN. 4 per cent immedial new blue G; 4 per cent sulphide sodium; 3 per cent soda ash; 25 per cent salt; topped with 2 per cent brilliant green B. All these shades are dyed with the sulpliur coiors, well rinsed with water and dyed again at 180 degrees F., and well rinsed in water again and dried. BLACK. 10 per cent immedial brilliant black G; 10 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash; 30 per cent salt; top- ped with 4 per cent immedial indone B; 4 per cent sodium sulphide; 3 per cent soda ash.; 20 per cent salt Rinsed and soaped. GLORIA SILK or GLORIA CLOTH. Gloria silk or gjoria cloth is a name applied to a fabric used extensively for umbrellas. This fabric is made up of fine organzine silk warp, and either cotton, worsted or mohair filling. The finest grades of this fabric are made with a fine organzine silk warp and fine French spun Australian worsted filling of a very high texture, A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 335 both warp and filling, "while in the cheaper grades cotton is substituted for worsted. The fabric made with silk and worst- ed is oftentimes used as a dress fab- ric, with a slight change in texture; the counts of the materials may be a little finer and the ends and picks per inch are less than in the umbrella fab- ric;?. The fabric used as dress goods is commonly known to the trade as lans- down. This fabric, by reason of the texture, is softer to the touch than the gloria cloth. Both fabrics are made in the gray, then dyed in the piece. The fabric used for umbrellas is usually dyed black and the fabric intended for a dress is dyed in various shades of solid •cojors, isuch as lavender, pink, blue, sometimes finished in pure white or bleached and sometimes the goods are dyed black, if the trade de^sires it. A distinguishing feature of these fabrics in conjunction with the mate- rials used is the weave, whiich is a three-end twill, — j, and is woven in a widt^ of about 45 inches in reed. In the best grades of the umibrella mammam ammamm mmamma mamuam Fig. 1. OaDDDB DDDQBD aaamaD DnBDDD DBDDDn mnanaa Fig. 2. fabric the construction is of such a high texture that the fabric need not be waterproofed as are some .fabrics used as a protection against the ele- iLents, as, for instance, raincloth.which is rainproofed during the finishing process. The texture of the gloria cloth is sufficiently compact to be im- pervaous to the rain. ANALYSIS follows of fabrics used for umbrellas and also fabrics used for dress goods. First, Gloria cloth: width of warp, in reed, 45 inches; width of fabric fin- ished, 40-41 inches; ends per inch in reed, 55x3, equals 165; ends per inch finished fabric, ISO; warp, V^ dram organzine silk. Take-up during weaving, 8 per cent. Practically no shrinkage in cloth in length during finishing. Filling, 160 picks per inch; l-70s French spun Australian worsted. Second: Lansdowne: width in reed, 45 inches; width of fabric finished, 40-41; ends per inch in reed, 150 — 50x3 reed; ends per inch in finished fabric, 168; warp, 1% dram organzine silk. Filling, 150 picks; l-90s French spun Australian worsted. These fabrics are woven on harness looms; the warp is drawn straight on six harnesses, through French string heddles. This particular heddle is al- most indispensable in silk v/eaving. Fig. 1, two repeats of weave. Fig. 2, drawing-in draft. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Gloria cloth is made up from many different raw stocks and may be either composed of worsted, silk, mohair or cotton yarns or a combination of any two. Gloria is sometimes called um- brella cloth on account of its extensive use for covering this article, snd when used for this purpose it is generally constructed from cotton yarns. The counts of the yarn used vary from 40s to 60s, but a good average would be 45s for both warp and filling. The raw stock used for the better cloth is Egyp- tian cotton of 1%-inch staple, but it is the general mile nowadays to mix Allen 1%-inch staple cotton with the Egyptian, so as to cheapen the cloth, the proportion of American cotton used varying from one-sixth to one- half, the blending being generally done at the breaker drawing frame. The cottons should be mixed and up to the drawing frame run separately. They should be mixed in the usual manner; if a bale breaker is used bet- ter results will be obtained and the mixings will not have to stand as long to dry out as when hand mixings are made. The cotton is put through an opener and three processes of pickers. On the opener the stripping roll should be set about one-half an inch from the lifting roll and THE HOPPER should always be kept three-quarters full of cotton. The processes of pick- ers used may be three, as stated before, or two, the breaker being what is known as a combination picker, that is, having two beaters and two sets of cages. For various reasons the latter method is considered the better of the two. In this article we will consider the processes to be three separate pick- ers, although the speeds of the beaters given may be used if two processes of pickers are used. The speed of the breaker beater is 1 .350 for a two-bladed beater and 900 revolutions per minute for a three-bladcd beater. The total 336 A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. weight of a lap at the front would be about 40 pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. These are doubled 5 into 1 at the inter- mediate picker. The speed of the beater of this packer is 1,300 revolu- tions per minuto. The total weight of a lap at this machine is 37i/^ pounds,or a 15%-ounce lap. These laps are put up at the finisher picker and doubled 4 into I. The speed of this beater is 1,200 revolutions per minute, and the weight of a lap is SlVz pounds, or a 12i^-ounce lap. THE SPEEDS of the beater given above are for the Egyptian stock. I'he Allen seed would require a higher speed of the beater to get the dirt out, the Increase be- ing about 100 revolutions per minute at each process. Every lap should be weighed as it is taken from the finisher picker, a variation of one-halC a pound from the standard weight being al- lowed. The laps are then put up at the card and given a draft of 110. The speed of the flats is one complete revo- lution every 40 minutes; set and grind as usual. The production should be about 500 pounds a week of 60 hours, the weight of the sliver being 50 grains per yard. Strip cards three times a day for a 10%-hour day. The card sliv- er is next put through a sliver lap ma- chine, the doublings for an S%-inch lap being 16 into 1. The weight of a yard of this lap at the front is 280 grains. These are put up at the rib- bon lap machine and doubled 6 into 1. The weight of a yard of lap at the front of this machine is 275 grains per yard. The spread of the rolls at the ribbon lap for this staple is, front to second, 1% inches; second to third, l';4 -inches; third to back, 1% inches. These laps are put up at the comber and doubled either 6 or S into 1, according to the number of heads the comber contains. For this article we will assume 6. The speed is 90 nips per minute, the weight of sliver delivered being 40 grains per yard. The percentage of waste taken out is 16. If larger laps than S% inches are used the weight of the lap, etc., will be proportionately heavier. Set and time as given in a previous article. At the drawing frame the doubling at each of the two proc- esses used is 6 into 1. It is at this ma- chine that the blending is done, three ends of American cotton being run in with three ends of Egyptian. THE WEIGHT of the drawing at the front should be 50 grains per yard. The rolls should be set as follows: front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1% inches,and third to back, 1% inches. Size four times a day and allow a variation of two grains per yard either side of standard before changing. Varnish and change leather top rolls frequently. At the slubber the silver is made into .70 hank roving and is then put through three processes of fly frames, the hank roving at each process being as fol- lows: First intermediate, 1.40 hank; second intermediate, 3.40 hank, and fine frame, 9.40 hank. The twist per inch put into the roving is very im- portant and for making these yarns the following twists are used at the slubber: 73 turns per inch; first inter- mediate, 1.01 per inch; second interme- diate, 1.85 per inch, and fine, 3.7 per inch. Lay close and size fine frames once a day, and slubbers once a week, BETTER RESULTS are obtained if either self-weighted rolls are used on the fine frames or if not using self-weighted rolls take weight off of second roll and take one tooth of draft out between second and third rolls. Watch the leather rolls to see that they are in perfect condi- tion. The yarn is taken to the mule room and spun with a soft twist for both warp and filling; the warp yarn is then run on to spools, after which it is warped and slashed and is then ready for the beam. Particular care has to be taken with this fabric to keep it free from neps on account of their showing up so plainly when made up on the umbrella, and it is a good plan to watch the beaters, flats and settings at the card, percentage and settings at the comber. Dyeing Particulars. Gloria cloth is made for the umbrel- la trade. When composed of silk and wool it is dyed by special colors, made by such firms as the Cassella Color Co., Continental Co. and others, the colors dyeing wool and silk in one bath. For cheap imitation gloria cloths of cotton and wool, a union black is dy- ed: 5 per cent union black B, 20 per cent Glauber's salt. Boil forty minutes, and run without steam for forty minutes longer. For ALL COTTON CHEAP GLORIAS, which are not glorias at all, as the only real gloria cloth is made from silk and wool, the aniline salt black is dyed; the goods are passed through a solution of aniline salt, dyed and aged and developed and washed. A COTTON FABRICS GLOSSARY. 337 CANVAS. Canvas is a term applied to heavy, plain weave cloths made with ooarse, ply cotton yarns. It does not refer to any particular grade or weight of cloth. Canvas cloth is used for mail bags, coverings for boats, in the manufac- ture of tents, etc. The ANALYSIS of a heavy characteristic canvas fab- ric indicates the following construc- tion data: ends per inch, 31; picks per inch, 24; warp counts, 6-14s; filling counts, 9-14s; cloth width, 24 inches; reed width, 2514 inches; weight, .72 (72-100) yard per pound; plain weave. A characteristic feature of heavy, plain cotton fabrics is seen in this cloth In that the warp has contracted in length about 25 per cent. Goods of this char- acter would be woven on heavy cam looms of the type used for weaving duck. Fig. 1 is a weave of the mock leno type, sometimes termed a canvas weave. Cloth made with this weave DDaamaum anaammmm >amuauaam ■■■■DDDD ■■■■DDDO >-D»an»nnB ^xm . A AA A Fig. 1. is characterized by small perforations, caused by some of the ends and picks, indicated by the arrows, cutting or op- posing each other, while other ends and picks in the same weave come closely together. This cloth is used as a base or ground for embroidery work, and the perforations noted have a distinctive value as an aid in indicai - ing readily where to insert the needle. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Canvas is made up in a great many grades, but usually the counts of the yarns do not vary as much for the dif- ferent grades as for different grades of finer fabrics. The sample of canvas taken for description is made up of 6-].4s warp and 9-14s filling. This count of yarn (considering the fabric) would be made up of from 15-16 to 1 1-16 inch staple, of a medium grade, and for this grade of fabric the cotton would not be combed. If large mixings are required, i. e., over 60 bales a day, a bale breaker should be used or some arrangement made whereby the mixing can be done by machines; if a smaller amount of cotton is required, then a hand mixing will answer. It will be found a great advantage to use ma- chinery for mixing; any of the up-to- date machines and systems are all right. The cotton is next put through an opener and three processes of pick- ers. The pin roll, or, as it is sometimes called, the evener roll, should be set about one-half an inch from the lift- ing apron. The breaker picker is what is known as a combination picker,hav- ing two sets of beaters and two sets of cages. THE BEATER that first receives the cotton is general- ly of a three-bladed type and its speed is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The front beater of this same machine has two blades, and its speed is 1,450 rev- olutions per minute. The total weight of a lap at the front end of this ma- chine is 40 to 50 pounds, according to length of lap run. Some overseers do not have a full lap knock-off on either the breaker or the intermediate picker, but the attendant doffs this lap at will. These breaker laps are doubled four into one at the intermediate picker. This picker is equipped with an even- er motion and has a two-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The weight of a full lap is about 40 pounds, but generally this picker has no full lap knock-off, so the laps would weigh more or less for a full lap, but just the same per yard. Four of these laps should be dou- bled into one at the finisher picker. This is equipped with a pin beater, the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weiglht of a 46-yard lap is 48% pounds gross, or 46 pounds net, or a 12-OTince lap. Every lap should be weighed on this kind of stock, for it is generally a very sensi- tive cotton to weather conditions. Watch the evener motions to see that they are working properly and are clean. Run good sliver waste up in the usual manner. At the cards the draft should not exceed 100 and the flats should make one complete revolution every 40 minutes; set and grind as in- structions in article on indigo prints. Strip out every three hours or three times (both cylinder and doffer) a day for a 10%-hour day. If humidifiers are run, THE HUMIDITY should be about 55 degrees. The pro- duction of a card for a week of 60 hours should be 650 to 750 pounds, the 338 A COTTON FABRIOS GLOSSARY. weight of the sliver being 55 grains per yard. The card sliver is next run through either two or three processes of drawing as required for the quality of the canvas. In the sample three processes are used, six ends up at each process. The spread of the rolls for 1-inch stock with leather top rolls is as follows: front to second, 1% inches; second to third, 1 3-16 inches; third to back, 1% inches. For metallic top rolls spread of rolls % inch wider all through. Watch all stop-motions on this machine, for practically the last doubling is done at this machine, so that it is very important to see that the stop- motions are in good order. Varnish rolls as often as possible, and see that clearers are proiperly placed and pick- ed. The sliver should be sized four times a day and should weigh 75 grains per yard. If humidifiers are used over these machines, they should give a mean temperature of 60 to 65 de- grees. The drawing sliver is run through the slubber, and made into 40 hank roving. The settings for rolls at this machine are as follows: front to second, 1 1-16 inches, and second to back, 11/4 inches. Clean steel rolls of all laps, etc. The slubber roving is then put through two processes of fly frames, at the first intermediate being made into 1 bank roving and at the sec- ond, 3 hank roving. The roving on the finer frame should be sized once a day, the roll settings used for both oeing front to second, 1-16 inches and second to back, 1^/4 inches; the doub- lings at each being 2 into 1. AT THE SPINNING ROOM the roving is spun into 14s on a warp frame with a 3-inch gauge of frame, 7- inch traverse, 2%-inch diameter ring, 17.77 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 9,000 revolutions per minute. This is then doubled into 6-14s or 6-ply 143, after which it is put through a slasher and run on a beam. The 14s filling yarn is made on a IV^- inch diameter ring, 6i/^-inch traverse, a 12.16 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 6,800 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then twisted into 9-ply 14s or 9-14s, after which it is conditioned, when it is ready to be woven. BACK-CLOTH, Back-cloth is a reinforcing clotli used in calico printing to support a fabric being printed. Any plain cloth of suitable width may be used as a back-cloth, therefore the term does not refer to any particular width, weight or quality of fabric. The back-cloth passes through thft printing machine between the ma- chine and the cloth to be printed. Both cloths, the back and the printed, emerge from the printing machine to- gether. The back-cloth is immediate- ly folded, whereas the printed cloth goes through other machines to "set" the color. The color on the back cloth, not being "set," is easily washed out. In a public cloth finishing es- tablishment, the back-cloth is usually bleached, after serving its purpose at the printing machine, and finished as required. The back-cloth is usually wider than the cloth it is intended to support, and the color touches it only lightly on the outer portions. K^ptnhix, CRASH. Carding and Spinni'ng Particulars. Crash, is generally composed of yarns varying from 14s to 209, botli warp and filling having the same count of yarn. This class of fabric is made from cotton whose staple varies from Ys to 1 1-16 inches. For this article we will consider the counts of the yarn to be 16s and the staple of the cotton 1 1-16 inches in length. If large lots of this class of goods are to be han- dled/ say over 35,000 pounds per week, preparing machines Khould be used, which are nothing more or ICE'S tlian several (from 3 to 7, according to capacity of mill) hoppers or openers in a row delivering the cotton on to an endle&s apron which carries it to and drops it into a line of trunking. The cotton is conveyed to the mixing bins through this trunking, the motive power being powerful fansi This a;l- lows the cotton, when it reaches the bins, to be in a fluffy dry state. Ttiis cotton is next fed to the openers and Is passed through three processes of picking. At the BREAKER PICKER the cotton passes through, first a 3- bladed rigid type of beater, which has a speed of 1,100 revolutions per minute, and then a 2-bladed beater, the speed of which is 1,375 revolutions per min- ute. TTie total weight of a lap is iO pounds, or a 16-ounce lap. At the in- termediate picker the speed of the 2- bladed beater is 1,300 revolutions per minute, and the weight of the lap is 38 pounds, or a 13-.ounce lap. At the fin- isher picker there is a pin beater (three arms) the speed of which is 1,350 revo- lutions per minute. Tlie total weight of a 52-yard lap is 46 pounds net, or a 14%-ounce lap. Allow one-half pound variation either side of standard weight. At the card, set the same as for indigo prints. The top flats sibould make one complete revolution every 45 minutes. The sliver should weigh 60 grains per yard, and the production should be 775 to 825 pounds per weeik of sixty hours. Watch the set- ting points to see that all cards are set as nearly as possible alike. Strip three times a day and watoh help to see that they strip ev- ery card. Grind as before stated. The sliver is next put through three proc- esses of drawing frames. The speed of the front roll at the finisher for this stock should be 350 to 400 revolutions per minute, and the weight per yard of lap 75 grains. Watoh the knock-off motions to see that they are all in proper working condition. For this class of work metallic top rolls may be used to excellent advantage. Size four times a day. THE DRAWING SLIVER is put through the slubber and made into .46 hank roving and from here put through two processes of fly frames, at the first intermediate being made into l.IO hank, and at the second in- termediate, or in this case the fine frame, 3.25 hank. Keep the top rolls in good condition and the bottom steel rolls set properly. This roving is tak- en to the spinning frame and spun into 16s warp yarn on a frame with 2% -inch gauge of frame, 2-inoh diam- eter ring, 7-inch, traverse and spindle speed of 9,400 revolutiomsi per minuta Twist per inch, 19. This' yarn is then spooled, warped and put through the slasher, where it is heavily sized. The 3-hank roving for the filling yarn is spun into 16s filling on a frame with 1%-inch diameter ring, 6i^-inCh traverse, 13 twist per inch and spindle speed of 7,000 revolution© per minute. After leaving the spinning frame, the yam is conditioned. HAMMOCK CLOTHS. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Hammock cloth is generally made in mills making low counts of yarn, or in mills or small plants which mafee a specialty of this one grade of goods. The counts as well as the staple of the cotton differ according to the qual- ity of the fabric to be made. Tbere is also another factor which enters In- to the manufacture of this class of fabric and that is its strength. Strength in yarn may be obtained by several different methods.either doub- ling and twisting two or more yams together or using a longer staple, or a combination of both, always con- sidering that machines through the mill are properly adjusted and set. Another method to obtain strength is to twist, tighten, or in other words put 329 340 APPENDIX. in more twist per inch. Por the sam- ple of hammO'Ck cloth we will suppose it to be made up of 3-lOs warp and fill- ing, and we will assume the staple of the cotton to be % inch in length, straight cotton being used in the mix- ing. In the cheaper grades of this cloth comber and card stripping waste is put into the mixings in certain, pro- portions. The cotton would be mixed by hand and TWO PRO'CBSSES of picldng used. The ootton. should be allowed to stand as long as possible to dry out so as to be more easily work- ed, and it also lessens the liability of fires in the picker. Tihe breaker pick- er should be a combination picker with two sets of screens and two beaters. The back beater has three blades and hias a speed of 1,000 revolutions per minute. The forward beater has two "blades and has a speed of 1,400 revo- lutions per minute. If the lap meas- ures 40 yards, the weight ishould be 40 pounds or a 16-O'unce lap. Generally, however, the lap is allowed to run as large as possible before being doffed. These laps are doubled 4 into 1, and come under the action of a two-bladed rigid beater, the speed of which should be about 1,375 revolutions^ per minute. The main points are to look out for fires, keep Tappers very near full, watch the eveners and piano motions and keep all parts in good working order. The total weight of a lap at the finish- er, for a 40-yard lap should be 37 pounds, or a 14i/^-0'unce lap. Weigh every lap and allow a variation of th:ree-quarters of a pound either side of standard. These laps are then put up at the card, which is fitted with coarse wire fillet. THE DRAFT should not be more than 90 and the speed of cylinder 165 revolutions per minute and the Ticker-in speed 350 rev- olutions per minute. Flats make one revolution every 50 minutes (110 flats). Strip cylinders three times a day and doffer two times. The weight of the sliver should be G5 grains per yard and the production not less than 950 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The ootton is next put through two proc- esses of drawing frames, the doublings being S into 1 at the breaker and '6 into 1 at the finisher. The weight per yard at the finisher drawing should be 80 grains; size three times a day. Me- tallic rolls may be used to good ad- vantage for this class of work. Watch all the knock-off land Bitop-motions at this machine and also look out for cut drawing. The roll setting for mer tallic rolls for seven-eighths inch stock is, front to second, 1% inches', second to third, 1^4 inches, and third to back, 1% inches. In a great many mills the sliver at the drawing frame is sized only twice a day. The cans of draw- ing are put up to and run through the slubber, which makes it into .60 hank roving, which is afterwards put through one process of fly frames and made into two hank roving. Size this class of roving once a day at the fine frame. Look out to see that the hank clock cannot be moved and hanks made. It is next taken to the spinning room and made into 10s for warp on a frame with 3-inch gauge of frame, 21/4-inch diameter ring, 7-incti traverse and spindle speed of 8,600 revolutions per minute, after which it is twisted into 3-ply 10s at twister, and then spooled, warped and put through the slasher. For the filling yarn the two hank roving is spun on a filling frame with a 1%-inch diame- ter ring, 7-inch traverse and spindle speed of 6,400 revolutions per minute, after which it is twisted Into 3-ply 10s. MADRAS. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Madras is made up of various counts of yarn according to the quality wanted, and in the finer qualities of this fabric, silk is used for the stripes. Egyptian or a fine Sea Island ootton is generally used in the finer qualities. In this article we will consider the filling yarn to 'be made up of 80s Egyp- tian cotton with a staple of 1% inches. Egyptian cotton, generally srpeaking, is more easily worked than American cotton, and for this reason higher speeds are used than when the same counts of j'arn are made from Am'erican cct- ton. TTie cotton is generally mixed by hand, after which it is put through three process'es of ■pickers. At the breaker picker the speed of the three bladed beater is 1,0'50 revolutions per minute. The total weight of the lap at the front of this machine is 4f) pounds, or an 18-'ounce lap. At the intermediate picker the speed of a two- bladed beater is 1,450 revolutiooe per minute, while the total weight is 38 pounds, or a 12-ounce lap. These are put up at the finisher picker and run through a two-bladed rigid beater, the speed of which is 1,400 revolutions per minute. The total weight of a 50- APPENDIX. 341 yard lap is 37 1^ pounds.or a 12 1/^ -ounce lap. Allow th© usual amoiunt of va- riation from standard weight of lap, and follow instructions for the picteer room for high-grade and fine yamis. The cotton is next passed to the caird. THE DRAFT of this card should not be less than 110. The top flats should make one complete revolution every 30 minutes. The speed of th.e licker-in should be about 350. The weig'ht of the sliver is 50 grains and the production for this class of goods is 475 pounds per week of 60 hours. Strip, grind, etc., the same as when Sea Island cotton is used. In mills that are especJally eqHipped for fine counts of yam the ware on the card will be fine. After Ipaving the card, the fulll cans are put up to the sliver lap machine. In the general type used the machine has 16 ends doubled into 1 at the front. This lap weighs about 295 grains per yard. These laps; are put up at the ribbon latp machine and doubled six into 1. The weight per yard of lap at this machine is 275. This is for a six-ihead comber. The comber is the next machine and at this machine tihe laps are doubled 6 Into 1. The settings of this ma- chine should be the same as when Sea Island cotton of the same length is used. The weight per yard of th« combed sliver is 40 grains, and the speed of the oo'mber 90 nips per min- ute. Several recipes! for varnish foT the leather-covered top rolls have been previously given and the follow- ing REiCIPE will be found to be an excellent addi- tion to those already given: BigM ounces of plate glue, 8 ounces of ground gelatine, 12 ounces of burnt sienna, one ounce of oil origanum, three pints acetic acid, one pint of water. The rib bon laps should be sized twice a day and a variation of five grains per yard eitheir side of the standard weight al- lowed before changing. The combed sliver is next put through two process es of drawing frames, the weight per yard of a yard of finished drawing be- ing 60 grains. The doublings at these machines are 6 into 1. Size the finish- ers four times daily and allow two grains per yard before changing. Tlie cotton is next put through the slubber and made into .60 hank roving. This is then put through three processes of fly frames, at the first intermediate be- ing made into 1.50 hank roving, at the second intermediate 4.50 and at the fine frame 16 hank. Egyptian cotton requires an extra tooth of twist as com- pared with Sea Island cotton of the saime length of staple and hank rov- ing. The middle top rolls on the fine o.r jack frame should not be dead weighted. This roving is taken to the spinning room and made into 80s yam (filling) on a frame with a li/4-inch diameter ring, S-iinch traverse, 29.07 twist per inch and spindle speed of 7,- 400. This yarn is then taken and con- ditioned. GINGHAMS. Carding and Spinniing Particulars. The yarns that make up ginghams (common) vary from 26s to 40s for both warp and filling. For the sam- ple of giingham under description we will consider the yarns to be No. 40s for both warp and filling. This yarn would be made from a medium grade of peeler cotton of about 1 3-16-inch staple. The cotton after being put thixDugh a bale breaker or an opener known as a preparer is put thr'ough three processes of pickers at the break- er picker. The speed of the three-blad- ed beater should be 1,150 revolutions per minute, and of the two-bladed beat- er of the same machine, 1,400 revolu- tions per minute. The total weight of the lap should be 40 pounds, or a 16- ounce lap. At the intermediate the speed of the beater should be 1,400 for a rigid twoMbladed beater. The total weight of lap should be 38 pounds or a 12i/^-ounce lap. The finisher picker should be e»quipped with a pin beater, the speed of which should be 1,425 revolutions per minute. The weight of a full lap should be 39 pounds or a 14-ounce lap. At the card use the same settings, etc., as given for indigo' prints. The flats sihould make one complete revo- lution every 50 to 55 minutes. Spesd of dO'ffer should be 350 revolutions per minute. THE WEiIGHT of the sliver should be 60 grains per yiard and the production 800 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The sliver is next put through three processes of draw- ing frames, the speed of the finisher drawing being 400 revolutions per min- ute. Watch the siettings.and size at this place four times a day, a variation of two grains either sid'e of standard weight being allowed. The weight of the sliver at the fin- 342 APPENDIX. isiher drawing should be 70 giralins per yard. Either metallic or leather cover- ed top rolls may be used to good ad- vantage on this stock. The drawing sliver is next put through the slubber and made into .60 hank roving. This is put through two procesises of fly frames and made into 2 hank roving at the first intermediate and 8 hank at the second. Watch the tension and waste and be especially careful of mix-ups. Size the fine roving at least once a day. The roving is taken to the spinning room and made into 40s on a warp frame with a 1%-dnch ring, 6i/^-inoh traverse, 28.46 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The 3^arn is then spooled and warped, after which it is run through the slas'her. A good slize is as follows: water, 100 gallons; potato starch, 54 pounds; Yorkshire gum, 2 pounds; white soap, 1% pounds. The 8 hank roving for filling yarn is made on a frame with 1%-inch di- ameter ring, 5%-inich traverse, 23.72 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 8,800 revolutions per minute. This yarn is then conditioned. SCRIM. Carding and Spinning Particulars. Scrim is made of cotton counts of yarn from 20s to 40s. For this article we will consider the cotton to be 1 3-16-inch staple peeler of a me- dium of 32s count. This class of goods is made in mills of the first division as given in a previous article. Large mix- ings should be made by hand and the cotton is then put through an opener and three processes of pickers. The breaker picker has two sets of cages and two beaters, the back beater hav- ing three blades and making 1,050 rev- olutions per minute. The front beater has two blades and makes 1,300 revo- lutions per minute. The total weight of a 40-yard lap at this machine is 40 pounds, or a 16-ounice lap. The speed of the beater of the intermediate Theater (two hladed) should he 1,400 revolutions per minute, and the total weight of the lap is ZTVp pounds,or a 12-ounce lap. At the finisher the lap should weigh 39 pounds.or a 14%-ounce lap, while the sneed of the heater (of a pin type) should be 1.400 revolutions per minute. Every lap should be weighed and a variation of half a pound either side of standard weight allowed to pass, all others being put back to be run over again. THE, CARD CLOTHlINiG should be of a medium count wire, the wire for doffer and top flats being two points finer than the cylin- der. The draft of card should be about 100 and the sliver should weigh 65 grains per yard. The production should be 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours, For other particulars for card follow those given for indigo prints. The cotton is next put through the sliver lap machine and doubled 16 in- to 1, the lap weighing 320 grains per yard. These laps are put up at the ribbon lap and doubled 6 into 1, the weight per yard being 440 grains for a lap 10% inches in width. These laps are put up to an eight-head comb- er and made into a 65-grain sliver, tak- ing out 17% per cent of waste. For roller varnish and other particulars about comber, see article on madras. The comber sliver is put through two processes of drawing frames, the doub- lings being 6 into 1 at each process. The weight per yard of the finished drawing is 75 grains. The same roller varnish may be used on the drawing frames as at the comber. Size four times a day and look out for the knock -off motions to see that they are in proper working order. The sliver is next put through the slubher and made into .60 hank roving. This is then put through two processes of fly frames or speeders, the hank roving at each being as follows: First inter- mediate 2 hank, and fine 6% hank. Keep the leather top rolls in good condition and watch to stop double, single and bunohes. THE ROVING- is then taken to the spinning room and sipun into 32s oin a w^arp frame with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6% -inch trav- erse, 26.87 twist per inch and spindle speed of 10,000 revolutions per minute. The yarn is then spooled, warped and run through the slasher, where it is put through a special size. The roving for the filling is spun into 32s on a frame with a 1%-inch diifimeter ring, 6-inch traverse, 21.21 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 8. son revolutions per minute. This yarn is conditioned. Some of the white cloths, such as ducks, pique, etc., which in miost sea- sons are always white, may be dyed to follow a freak of fashion. CREAM. For 100 pounds goods, two ounces immedial yelow D; 2 ounces imme- dial outch B; 1 pound sulphite sodi- APPENDIX. 343 um: 20 ipounds 'Salt; i/^ pound soda ash.. MAUVE. Two ounces diamine violet N; 10 pounds Glauber's; 1 pound sal soda. EORU. One-half pound immediall cutch G; 4 ounces immedial yellofw D; 2 pounds sulphide sodium; 10 pounds salt; 1 pound soda ash. SKY BLUE. One pound immedial indone B; 2 pounds sulphiide sodium; 2 pounds soda ash; 10 pounds salt. LIGHT SLATE. One and one-half pounds Immedial black N R T; 3 pounds sulphide sodi- um; 20 pounds salt; 2 pounds' soda ash. PIQUE. Carding and Spinning Particulars. The yams for picLue vary acoording to the quality wanted. A good quality and average grade of pique may he made from 30s yams of 1%-inch peel- er cotton (carded). After being put through a bale breaker the cotton Is put through three proaesBes of picker®, the isipeed of the beater at each process being as foliorws: 1,500 revdlutions per minute (two-bladed beater) for the breaker picker, 1,400 for the interme- diate picker (two blades), and 1,375 to 1,450 for the finisher picker, according to the grade of cotton used. The to- tal weiglit of a finished lap should be 35 pounds or a 12%-ounce lap. At the card the draft should not be leiss than 100 or more than 110. The flats (110) make one revolution every 37 minutes. Strip three times a day. The weight of sliver should be 60 grains per yard; production, 750 pounds for a week of 60 hours. The card sliver should be put through THREE PROCEiSSBS of drawing frames. These should be equipped with leather covered top rolls, the speed of the front roll of the finisher drawing being 350 to 400 rev- olutions per minute, acoording to pro- duction required. The weight of the sliver from this frame should be 75 grains per yard. This sliver is put through the slub- ber and made into .50 hank roving. For 9s filling yarn the slubber roving is put through one proicess of fiy frames and is made into 2 hank roving. If a large quantity of pique is being made the yarn for 9s may be made of a nauch lower grade and staple of cotton, but otherwise it is better to construct the yarn by the method given. The slubb'er roving for 30s yarn is put through two processes of fly fratmes, at the fl]'st intermediate being made into 2 hank and at the second being made into 7.50 hank. This roving is taken to the spinning ixDom and spun into 30s on a warp frame having a di- ameter of ring 1% inches, length of traverse 6% inches, twist per inch, 26.02 and a spindle speed of 9,800 rev- olutions per minute. This yam is then spooled and warped, after which it is run through the slasher. The No. 9s yam is made on a filling spinning frame with a 1%-inch diame- ter ring, 7-inch traverse, 9.75 twist and a spindle speed of 6,200 revolutions per minute. The 30s yam is made on a frame with a 1%-inch diameter ring, 6-inch traverse, 19.17 twist per inch and a spindle speed of 8,300 revolutions per minute. The Crotjan, Lobe Company WHOLESALE AUCTIONEERS 307 and 309 West Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md. Woo/en SaJes Evory Thuraday, I nsr x) E 2c A Albatross 162 Alhambra Quilt See Crochet Quilts 204 Army Duck Duck 56 Awning Stripe Duck Duck 56 Back-Oloth 338 Baline 326 Barathea 298 Bath Robes See Terry 29 Batiste 1 25 Bayadere 102 Bayadere of Mercerized Cotton^ 112 Bedford Cord 152 Bedspreads See Crochet Quilts 204 Satin Quilts 211 Marseilles Quilts 3, 116, 207 Beige 275 Bengal Stripes 313 Biaz 270 Bishop's Lawn 308 Book Muslin 258 Boucle 106 Bourrette 79 Braid Wicking See Lamp Wicking 318 Brighton 328 Brilliante 255 Brilliantine 141 Brocatelle 167 Buckram 195 Butcher's Muslin 176 c Calico 144 Cambric 181 Cambric, Kid Finish 273 Canton Flannel 53 Canvas 337 Cashmere Twill 110 Cassimere^ Cotton 218 Chambray 51 Checks See Ginghams 9, 15, 118, 341 Osnaburg 62 Satin Checks 288 Shadow Checks 297 Stop-Peg Checks 188, 243 Tartans .100, 192 Cheeeecloth 132 Cheviot Shirting 66 344 INDEX. 345 Chintz 158 Coburg Suiting 271 Corded Fabrics See Baratliea 298 Bedford Cord 152 • Corduroy 45 Eolienne 320 Pique 3, 114, 343 Poplin 278 Corduroy 45 Coitonade 34 Cotton Cassimere 218 Cotton-Mohair Fabrics 280 Cotton Worsted, IVIen'e Wear 36 Counterpanes See Quilts Coverlets See Quilts Crammed Stripes See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 Crash 12, 339 Crash, Hammock 6 Crepons 302 Cretonne 92 Crinkle , 32 Crinoline I9 Crochet Quilts 204 Curtain Cloth See Shade Cloth 306 Curtain Duck See Duck 56 D Damask 21 Denim 77 Dhooties 237 Diaper Cloth 325 Dimity 48 Dimity, Indian 248 Domet 13 Doria Stripes See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 Drapery Fringe See Hammock Crash 7 Drill 72 Duck 55 Duree Quilt See Satin Quilts 211 E Eolienne 320 Etaimine 122 F Farmer's Satin See Italian Cloth 128 Felting, Table See Silence Cloth 292 Filling Reversibles .^"^34 Flannel, Canton 53 Flannel, Domet or Outing 13 Flannelette 74 Foundation Muslin 291 Fringe See Hammock Crash 7 Fustians See Velveteens 134 346 . INDEX. G Galatea 329 Gingham, Common 9, 341 Gingham, Madras 118 Gingham, Zephyr 15 Gloria Cloth 334 Grenadine 251 H Haircloth See Crinoline 19 Hammock Cloth 26, 339 Hammock Crash , 6 Handkerchiefs 322 Henrietta 178 Herringbone Stripes 283 Hickory Stripes 58 Honeycomb 327 Honeycomb Crash Toweling 12 Honeycomb Quilt See Crochet Quilts 204 Huckaback Towels. 12, 227 I imitation Gauze '. 230 India Linen 261 Indian Dimity 248 Indigo Prints 198 Irish Poplin See Poplin 278 Italian Cloth 128 J Jean 90 K Kensington Quilts See Satin Quilts 211 Kid Finish Cambric - 273 Kno or Loop Cloth 300 L Lamp Wicking 317 Lappet Grenadine 251 Laundry Bags See Scrim 6 Lawn 97 Lawn, Bishop's 308 Lawn, Union Linen 286 Lawn, Victoria 267 Leno Fabrics 200 Also see Leno Waisting 40 Madras Gingham 118 Leno Waisting 40 Linen Finish Suiting 270 Linings, Combed Yarn 108 Linings, Orleans 294 Linings, Taffeta Silk 264 Also see Cambric 181 Italian Cloth 128 'Silesia 94 Linon 261 Long Cloth 193 Loop Cloth 300 Also see Boucle 106 INDEX. 347 M IVIadras 8, 340 IVIadras Gingham IIS Marseilles Quilts 3, 116, 207 Mock Leno 230 Also see Canvas 337 IVIitcheline Quilts See Satin Quilts 211 .Mull 260 TVIuslin, Book 258 Muslin, Butcher's 176 Muslin, Foundation 291 N Nainsook ^^® Nankeen or Nankin 290 Netting See Scrim 5 Novelty Dress Goods 69 o Ondule 221 Organdie ''^^ Orleans Linings 294 Osnaburg ^2 Outing or Domet Cloth "13 P Percale ^^^ Percaline ^^^ Pique 3, 114, 343 Plaids, Tartan 100, 192 Also see Checks. Popl in 278 Prints, Indigo 1^^ Prints, Calico. 144 Also see Cliintz 156 Quilts, Crochet 204 Quilts, Marseilles 3, 116, 207 Quilts, Satin 211 Raincloth 215 Reversibles, Filling 234 Robes 310 s Sateen or Satine 1^3 Satin Checks 288 Satin Stripes .See Unequally Reeded Stripes. 240 Satin Quilts 211 Scr i m ^' 342 Seersucker 32 Shade Cloth 306 Shadow Checks 297 Sheeting 64 Shirting, Cheviot °° Shirting Fancy °' Silence Cloth. Silesia 292 94 Spots Formed With Extra Warp ''87 Stop-Peg Checks 243 Also see Raised Stripe Plaid.. 188 Stripes, Bengal 313 348 I N D E X. Stripes, Herringbone 283 Stripes, Hickcory 58 Stripes, Satin 240 Stripes, Unequally Reeded 240 Suiting, Coburg 271 Suiting, Linen Finish 270 Also see Bourrette 79 Suspender Webbing 246 T Tablecovers See Damask 21 Table Felting See Silence Cloth 292 Taffeta Silk Lining or Taffetine 264 Tapef 84 Tarlton 164 Tartan Plaids 100, 192 Terry Cloth 29, 171 Terry Poplin See Poplin 278 Ticking 59 Also see Satine 174 Tire Fabrics 183 Toweling^ Crash 12 Toweling, Damask 21 Toweling, Honeycomb 327 Toweling, Huckaback 227 Toweling, Terry or Turkish 29, 171 Tubular Fabrics Tucks 4 Turkey Red 315 Turkish Toweling 29, 171 u Umbrella Cloths 226 Also see Gloria Cloth 334 Unequally Reeded Stripes 240 Union Linen Lawns 286 Upholstery Goods See Brocatelle 167 Chintz 156 Corduroy 45 Cretonne 92 Satine 173 Velour 332 Velverets See Velveteen 134 Velveteen 134 Velveteen, Cutting 138 Vesting 85 Victoria Lawn 267 w Waisting, Leno 40 Webbing, Suspender , 246 Wicking, Lamp 317 z Zephyr Gingham 15 Non-fluid OILS NON-FL/vJID OII^S represent a radical improve- ment in lubrication over fluid oils and greases — Fluid oils drip and spatter and waste. Greases have to be softened by frictional heat before they begin to lubricate and hence actually increase friction instead of reduce it. NON-FLVJID OlhfS are exactly what theirname implies — fluid oils rendered non-fluid. They have all the friction-reducing power of the best mineral oils ; all the cleanliness, economy and ease of application of greases. NO N -FLUID OIL/tS are employed with wonder- ful success for the lubrication of mill machinery in many of the largest textile mills in the United States. TEST SAMPLES FBEE, BY PAID EXPMESS. THE NEW YORK & NE<37 JERSEY LUBRICANT COMPANY H-I6 CHURCH ST., NEW YORK CITY. Pure Crystal Water FOR TEXTILE MILLS Brilliant, Uniform Colors; Light Shades Absolutely Matched Pure Whites, Free from Spots. Better Quality ; Increased Demand ; More Customers ; Larger Profits. o o s ^ ® Little to Install ; Almost Nothing to Operate ; Lasts a Lifetime* Pressure and Gravity Filters. Water Softeners HUNGERFORD FILTER CORPORATION 308 Harrison Building, PHILADELPHIA, PA. Automatic Fricflion ClutcK There has been for a long time a domand for an automatic friction clutch. In many Instances where clutches are used, the Instant that it 1« thrown into contact there is an immense strain upon belts, bearings, shaftings, etc., and it hai always been impossible to overcome this defect. On a woolen card, for instance, we know that when it is started up the belt ia thrown on gradually, that the operative or whoever starts up the set has to stand by each belt and gradually start the cylinder. In a room where there are perhaps 100 looms or 10 sets of cards, a great deal of unnecessary wear and tear could be obvi- ated if it were possible to economically apply power gradually. Up to the present time, how- ever, it has been impossible to obtain this de- sired condition. Recently there has been perfected the Hilliard Automatic Clutch, which has the following si>e- cial features. THE SPECIALi FEATURES of the Hilliard Automatic Clutch are as follows: First: It la not manually operated only In bo far as engaging and disengaging of meohanlBm is concerned. This is accomplished by means of a small shitting lever that can be thrown in and out at will on any size clutch with thumb and forefinger. As a result, no expensive shifting de- vice is necessary. Second: The clutch is entirely automatic in so far as application of tension to frictional parts is concerned. This result is obtained by means of gear driven mechanism actuated by driving member, insuring a more gradual and accurate In- crease of friction aaid a more positive drive than Is now possible to obtain by the use of any other clutch on the market. Tliird : The clutch being automatic In adjust- ment, machinery connected therewith is started gradually and as slowly as practicable in con- formity with any given speed of power transmis- sion; all excess strain and wear on line-shafting, hangers, pulleys and belting is, therefore, en- tirely eliminated. Fourth: Release is obtained instantly by throwing out the hand lever to disengage the driven from the driving mechanism, there being no unwinding of parts to accomplish this result. Fiftli: The automatic self-tightening of clutch takes care of all increased loads, the mech- anism being so constructed that any slippage of clutch will instantly increase the force of the frictional engagement. Sixth: No end thrust is created on shafting by this clutch. Seventh: It Is very neat in design, there being no protruding parts, and is therefore with- in the requirements of all factory laws. It is economical of space on shafting, both as to length and diameter of clutch. GE^ighth: It assures immunity from effects of careless handling by ignorant or hasty employes; the clutch being self-regulating, the machinery will start only at a safe speed. The features of this clutch herein enumerated make it especially desirable for installation in textile mills and electric light plants, and, in fact, on any machinery. We manufacture both solid and split clutches for cut-off couplings, and with extension sleeve, for clutch pulleys, ranging in sizes from 25 to 1,- 000 horse power. This clutch, besides being automatic, as above described, can be used also as an ordinary fric- tion clutch or cut-off coupling, bo that on another machine or in any part of the mill where it ia necessary to immediately apply full power, the Hilliard clutch can be used. The writer has seen these clutches in operation in the plant of the Hilliard Clutch & Machinery Co., at Elmira, N. Y. , and has compared them with practically all friction pulleys which are now being used in textile mills and he has never seen one which could do all of the work which the Hilliard clutch can be depended upon to perform. A neat catalogue with full description of the workings of this clutch, fully illustrated and giv- ing prices, can be had by writing to the HILLIARD CLUTCH (Si MACHINERY CO. £LMIR.A. NE^V YORK CHAIN BEAMERS COMBINED WITH WARP COMPRESSORS SHIPPED SUBJECT TO APPROVAL Naming cMachtnety 0>pper & Heck Long and Short Chain Systems DRY SLASHERS Extra Heavy for Cotton Duck Special Machinery for Rag and Jute Yarns BUILT BY Worcester Warp Compressing Machine Co* WORCESTER, MASS. The "Perkins" Fan The accompanying cut represents one of the 22 styles of Fans which we manufacture. If interested send for our new illustrated catalogue No. 78, Vol. 2, showing all the 22 styles. It also gives general information as to HOW TO VENTILATE I HOW TO INSTALL! POWER REQUIRED I CAPACITY, ETC Style "J" Our Improved Steel Frame Vertical Fan B. F. PERKINS & SON, Inc. Ventilating Dept. HOLYOKE, MASS. TEXTILE COMMISSION CO. FORMERLY 73 WORTH STREET NOW LOCATED AT No. 41 WORTH STREET New York City BROWN AND COLORED Cotton Goods Consignments Solicited Philadelphia Chicago St. Louis Atlanta The American Wool and Cotton Reporter . The Leading Textile Weekly of the United States — — WE challenge contradiction of our statement, that THE WOOL AND COTTON REPORTER has a larger bona fide circulation among cotton, woolen, worsted, hosiery and carpet mills than any other paper in the United States. The Reporter is the only paper in the United States devoted to all the materials, processes and products of textile manufacture, from the farm and the field, through the loom and the cloth perch, to the counter of the merchant and the back of the consumer. It has imitators in some departments, but is practically without competition in its scope and circulation. Our mailing list is always open to the inspection of our customers and all other information will be furnished upon addressing us at either of our offices : Frank P. Bennett & Co., Inc. 530 Atlantic Ave.. Boston 757 Broadway and 3 1 Nassau St.. N. Y. City 308 Chestnut St.. Philadelphia, Pa. 930 Monadnock Building. Chicago, 111. 208 Corcoran Bldg.. Washington. D. C. 440-3 Constitution Bldg.. Salt Lake City. Utah 215 Fourth Avenue. Pittsburgh, Pa. AgsntB and Correspondents in every tecHon of the United States and in every country of the teorld.