F 158 .65 .F2 S19 Copy 1 A WORD SKETCH OF FAIRMOUNT PARK BY J. BUNFORD SAMUEL PHILADELPHIA 1917 A WORD SKETCH OF FAIRMOUNT PARK -v\ BY j; BUNFORD SAMUEL WITH A MAP PHILADELPHIA I917 COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY J. BUNFORD SAMUEL PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A. ©CI.A470648 51917 A WORD SKETCH OF FAIRMOUNT PARK THE EAST PARK TO GIRARD AVENUE Hark, this is Faire-Mount Park An original entrance to the Ark, All the animals you can see. By climbing the nearest tree. (From an old Madrigal.) IMAGINATION in the time of yore, always added zest to the description of a locahty. Faire-Mount Park is one of the most extensive and, in natural advantages, the most attractive of pleasure grounds in the world. Its acreage is as follows : Old Park including triangle at 25th and Spring Garden Sts. 119.78 acres East Park 513-94 acres West Park 1343.28 acres Wissahickon, including Cresheim Valley and Houston Ramble 1176.39 acres Schuylkill River running through the Park 373.00 acres Total acres 3526.39 The Schuylkill River, called by the Indians, " Ganshew- channa " (the noisy stream), divides the Park into the East and West sides, and a tributary stream, called the Wissahickon, a corruption of the Indian name " Wisamickan " (Cat Fish Creek), adds much to the Park's attraction. The extreme southeastern end of the East Park commences now at the intersection of Callowhill and Twenty-fifth Streets. The principal southern entrance is Green Street, and this driveway is called the East River Drive. On the north side of this entrance is the colossal fountain and statue of Wash- 3 ington, by the Belgian sculptor " Sommerling." It looks more like Frederick the Great than the Father of our country. It was erected by order of the Society of the Cincinnati. On the south side is the original hill, called Faire-Mount, after which all the Park is called. The plot of ground on which the old reservoirs were exca- vated extends from Callowhill Street, on the south, to the river on the west. Green Street on the north, and on the east, Twenty-fifth Street. Continuing on a straight line from Green Street entrance is a pathway and road leading to the river, skirting the reservoirs, then comes a small bridge, and further on extending into the river, a branch of the old water works, ending with a pavilion overlooking the Dam. This dam across the river was commenced in 1819, and measures 1148 feet 10 inches in length, and 12 feet 6 inches in height above low tide. The dam was rebuilt in 1842-43, to overcome the ice pressure. The four reservoirs contain about 27 million gallons of water. The water level was 96 feet above city datum. The old turbine wheels and steam pumps have been removed from the water works, and an up-to-date aquarium has been installed in their place, this being an ideal location for an aquarium. The view from the top of what is left of the reservoirs is quite unusual for such proximity to a large city, and the climb to the summit will repay anyone making it. The entire construction of the water works was designed by Frederick Graff and J. S. Lewis, by order of the Councils, June I, 1848. A monumental bust of Frederick Graff is erected on the terrace back of the water works. Near here is a bronze fountain, being a replica of a wooden one carved by William Rush. The original fountain was located in front of the old pump house in Centre Square, now the site of City Hall, then it was removed to the forebay or intake of the water pumped into the reservoirs. This forebay has been converted into a seal pool. There the fountain stood for years, until the wood showed signs of decay, and a model was cast from it in bronze. Rush's model of the figure was made from a life study of Miss Vanuxem, a belle of that period. The bird out of whose mouth gushes the water is a bittern, belonging to the crane family. Flocks of these birds could be found in the marshes along the riverside in olden times. The conception of a fountain seems to have originated in Councils, for in looking over the minutes of Councils, Vol. 3, January i8b3-i8i3, there is found the following resolution of September 14th, 1809. Resolved, by the select and common councils, that the watering committee, be authorized to have the castings for pumps, etc., and to add to the coolness of the place, had caused a jet-d'eau, or fountain to be erected on a simple plan, and with as much economy as possible, the whole cost of which will not exceed the sum appropriated by councils. A romance attached to this matter adds, that John Moss, a member of Councils from the old Cedar Ward, ordered from William Rush, the wood carver, a wooden fountain and pre- sented it to the City, anticipating the resolution of Councils, ordering a jet-d'eau (this is the first public fountain erected in the United States). This section of the Park can be left here by going to the gateway opening to Callowhill Street Bridge and walking around the reservoir site to Green Street entrance. From here the boundary of the East Park is Twenty-fifth Street on the east to a little beyond Green Street, then the Reading Railroad to Girard Avenue ; on the north the Pennsylvania Railroad ; on the west the Schuylkill River and on the south the Fairmount Reservoirs. William Penn intended to build a residence on the summit of Faire-Mount but it is left to the city to place its extravagant municipal art gallery there instead. At the conclusion of the Centennial Exposition, Memorial Hall was given to the city for an art gallery; it was built of granite, and the wings at either end, at a small expense, could be extended quite a distance, making a splendid gallery; this seems to be overlooked. The reservoir hill for years belonged to the Bureau of Water — only recently it was amalgamated with the Park. The dis- tance from the City Hall, Broad and Market Streets, to this point is five blocks north and eleven blocks west, making a little over a mile and a half. A half mile further on is the Lincoln Statue, dividing the driveway into three branches. The sculptor of this statue was Randolph Rogers, an American residing in Rome. The casting was done at Munich ; it cost $19,300, and the granite base $9400. The figure measures nine feet in height. A little below this statue near the Brown Street entrance to the Park is a figure of Silenus, holding the infant Bacchus in his arms. It is supposed to be the work of Praxiteles, and is copied from the original antique in the Louvre, at Paris, Above the Lincoln statue is a large animal group, a bronze lioness carrying a wild boar to her young, by August Cain. And a little further along, on the way up on the west side of Lemon Hill, is a statue of the Wrestlers repro- duced in bronze by Barbedienne of Paris, presented by A. J. Drexel to the Park, and is copied from the original antique at the Royal Gallery, at Florence, Italy. There are two springs, one at either side of the pathway, skirting Lemon Hill. Also a tiny pond is located nearby. Lemon Hill was the country residence of Robert Morris, the financier of the Revolutionary War, and many of the coun- try's notable men of this period visited the house from time to time. The house was destroyed by British troops but was rebuilt by Mr. Pratt in the summer of 1796. The Hill was formerly called Old Vineyard Hill. A music pavilion and other buildings now surround the mansion. The road leading to Girard Avenue Bridge has a steep upward grade. On the left is a figure of Morton McMichael, the first president of the Park Commissioners. He is seated on a bronze chair and has a companionable expression. Near him is located General Grant's log cabin, brought from City Point, Virginia, where the General used it during the Civil War. On the right is a statue of Jeanne d'Arc by Fremiet. This statue is a more mature conception of that lady than the one erected in the Place des Pyramides, at Paris. She stands guarding the approach to Girard Avenue Bridge, and back of her is a small hill called Sedgeley, on top of which is a guard house and a statue of Humboldt, shaking his fist at Jeanne d'Arc. Gossips 6 say this locality will be the mecca of the suffragists of the future on account of Jeanne's presence. Sedgeley at the time of the Civil War was used as an earthwork intended to keep invaders from crossing the bridge. Think of this preparedness fifty years ago ! Returning to the Lincoln A'lonument : Almost opposite is a public boat house, also a fountain, and then at intervals of about fifty feet or more there are fourteen private boat houses and clubs, constituting the Schuylkill Navy — and there are two fountains between the public boat houses and Fairmount Avenue. A prize challenge Silver Cup donated on June 24, 1879, by the late George W. Childs is annually rowed for in the month of May. About opposite the tenth boat house on the north side of the driveway are four figures carved in red sandstone, representing Tam-o'Shanter and his family seated in a little rustic pavilion; these figures were carved by Thorn, and are cheerfully gazing at the passersby. They were given to the Park Art Association by the Trustees of the Franklin Institute on November 10, 1877. At the last boat house, called the Sedgeley Club, there is placed in a tower on the roof a beacon light. It is proposed to erect from this club house northwardly to Girard Avenue Bridge, a distance of 2000 feet, statuary emblematic of the discovery and settlement of our great country in chronological order. This is made possible by a bequest made by Ellen Phillips Samuel, to the Fairmount Park Art Association, of the entire residuary portion of her estate, after the death of her husband, the income of which only is to be spent in erecting statuary on granite pedestals of uniform shape and size on the edge of the embankment on which a bulkhead is already built along the riverside. The pedestals are to be placed 100 feet apart. Mrs Samuel never intended that any artificial construction, or that standing trees should be removed to carry out her idea and ruin the sylvan beauty now existing in this locality. It will take eighteen pedestals for this purpose, after which the fund can be spent for other statuary and fountains in perpetuity in any location of the Park. There are already two fountains on the left side, and steps leading down to the water's edge for the convenience of skaters in the winter who want to land here. On the right side further along, is a statue of a lion hunter, by Albert Wolf, placed on a ledge of rock ; the horse seems stranded there. Just below Girard Avenue Bridge, on the right side, is a heroic bust of Garfield, by Augustus St. Gaudens, almost hidden in a hollow, and near here is a spring. To cross this river road anywhere is dangerous on account of the fast driving upon it. If a path had been made on the right side of this driveway just above the Tam-o'Shanter group, to the Girard Avenue Bridge, it would afford the pedestrians another walk. At the bridge the old portion of the Park ends, and the remainder on both sides of the river is a continuation. A wooden stairway of unnumbered steps leads on this right-hand side to a walk under the bridge, and if one's breath holds out, a further ascension comes to the top, which is Girard Avenue. Seats are needed all along this portion of the Park, from Green Street entrance, also at Lincoln's Monument. An underground tunnel for pedestrians should be built under the driveway to Lemon Hill, thus insuring safety to the multitudes who crowd this portion of the Park. THE EAST PARK FROM GIRARD AVENUE BRIDGE TO CHESTNUT HILL THE first object to be seen in the East Park after crossing under Girard Avenue Bridge is the Spring Garden Pumping Station. It is a brick building of Oriental design, and is built in a ravine just north of the bridge. The pumping capacity of the works was over twenty-two millions of gallons of water daily, and this was stored in a reservoir on a hill back of the station, holding about nine millions of gallons of water. This pumping plant has been abandoned like the Fairmount works. There are two springs here, one in front and the other behind the building near Thirty-third and Thompson Streets. The connecting railroad bridge crosses the river here, on which pass the Pennsylvania trains to the eastern and western portion of our country, and is one of the most important railroad bridges in this country. Just north of the bridge on the bluff, is a statue of the Cow Boy, by Frederick Remington. Between the two bridges is the entrance to the tunnel. It is hollowed out of the solid rock of what was called Promontory Point, and is 140 feet long, 41 feet wide and 22 feet 9 inches high. It was begun in October, 1870, and finished in June, 1871. Between Girard Avenue Bridge and the tunnel is a roadway branching off of the East River Driveway on the east side, and in a steep ascent reaches Girard Avenue. A quarter of a mile above Girard Avenue Bridge, at the intersection of Fountain Green Drive and the East River Roadway, is the Equestrian Statue of General Grant. It is placed on a huge pedestal of pale pink Jonesboro granite, cost- ing $9000. The statue itself cost $23,875. The long cape and peculiar shaped hat on the statue were vouched for by his son, General Frederick D. Grant. The sculptors were Daniel Chester French and Edward C. Potter. A water trough and spring are near here and another spring on Fountain Green Drive about 150 yards in the rear of Grant's statue. From this point the different streets and avenues having entrances along Thirty-third Street commence from Girard Avenue to Dauphin Street. At Dauphin Station of the Park Trolley road is the intersection of Thirty-third Street and Ridge Avenue. This avenue forms the East Park boundary as far as Huntingdon Street. Here the South, Central, and North Laurel Hill Cemetery are the boundaries up to Abbots- ford Avenue, where Ridge Avenue again becomes the boundary up to the entrance of the Wissahickon. The estates comprising this portion of the Park northwards from Girard Avenue Bridge are : Fountain Green, Mount Pleas- ant, Rockland, Belleville, Ormiston, Edgeley, Woodford, and Strawberry Mansion. They lie in successive tracts along the river bank and end at Laurel Hill Cemetery. The Smith Playhouse, on a lawn overlooking the Reading Railroad, fronts on a drive leading from Columbia Avenue and Oxford Street entrances to the Park. Here children can enjoy every comfort under professional care, including simple food, and a series of amusements for children under ten years of age. There are springs on the bridle path south of the Playhouse called Lithia and Castle Springs. A statue of the " Medicine Man," by Cyrus B. Dallin, stands at the head of Strawberry Hill drive road west of Dauphin Street entrance to the Park. Do look at this horse's legs. Is it possible for any four-footed animal to get into such a limb tangle ? There are several good springs in this vicinity — Edgeley Springs and others south and north of Trolley Bridge which spans the river near here. At the junction of Columbia Avenue and Oxford Street inside of Park limits is a statue of Orestes and Pylades, by Carl Steinheimer, of Carlsruhe, Germany, and at the Dauphin 10 Street entrance to the Park is a very ornamental fountain. At Oxford Street entrance to the Park the driveway con- tinues around on the west side of the East Park Reservoir for over a mile. It forms three loops before reaching Dauphin Street entrance. The first loop takes in Rockland, also a branch roadway from here leads south to Grant's Statue on the East River Drive. The second and largest loop takes in Edgeley, having two street entrances — Park Avenue and Dauphin Street. There the last loop commences, and takes in both Woodford and Strawberry Mansion, coming out at the Trolley Bridge over the river. There is also a Park driveway midway off of Ridge Avenue, between Lehigh Avenue and Cam- bria Street, running to the East River Drive. And at Queens' Lane Reservoir there is a driveway forming a circle around the reservoir coming out at the mouth of the Wissahickon. Only two historic mansions are left standing on this portion of the Park: The Woodford west of Park Trolley road, built by William Coleman, a friend of Frankhn, in 1742. William Lewis resided here, also one of the Frank family. It is now the headquarters of the Park guard. The other man- sion is Mt. Pleasant, built by John Macpherson, in 1761. Benedict Arnold bought it and presented it to his wife for a marriage portion. General Von Steuben dwelt there for a short time. Strawberry Mansion was the property of Judge Hemphill, built about 18 12 or 181 5. The village of the Falls of Schuylkill River comes into sight after passing the base line of Laurel Hill Cemetery. Here the Falls Bridge crosses the river, also the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad bridge. Tradition says, " This is the last place around Philadelphia from which the Indians re- treated." The Falls used to be a famous locality to fish. The old " Rock Fish Inn " stood here, and was famous for the catfish dinners and waffles it served. Fort St. David, a rude but strongly built cabin, was located here on one of the rocks that jutted out into the river. The Society of the Fort, its builders and Gastreonomic Garrison, were companions of Penn. The Garrison during the Revolu- tion had a noble record. Their house was burnt down by the Hessians for revenge of the stubborn fight that took place here. It was rebuilt after the war, but was again accidentally destroyed. John Dickerson, the author of the " Farmers' Letters," was an active member. The Philadelphia Canoe Club is near here, south of Ridge Avenue and Wissahickon Drive, also the following up-river stations of the Schuylkill Navy: Philadelphia Barge Club (Anchorage), about 150 yards north of Falls Bridge; Undine Barge Club (Ringsteten) and the Bachelors' Barge Club (Button) are both southwest from Ridge Avenue and School Lane. Back from the Falls Village on the east side of Ridge Road stands the Old Mifflin house, the residence of Governor Thomas Mifflin. On the same side of the roadway was a school owned by Joseph Neef, a pupil of Pestalozzi, of Switzerland. He was an early advocate of out-of-door schooling, and was what might be called an out-of -elbow pedagogue. Both of these properties in olden times ran to the river edge, but now they are just outside of the Park limits. Here the East Park ends and leaving the village and pass- ing along the Ridge Road for the distance of three-quarters of a mile, the mouth of the Wissahickon is reached. At this point the Queens' Lane Water Works are situated. The Wissahickon A high railroad bridge of stone arches spans the Wissa- hickon stream here, and a dam is built across the stream to hold the water in dry weather, and passing under the bridge, the ground on either side was the limit of the battle of Ger- mantown, redoubts having been built on both sides of the stream. In building the bridge the old landmarks were destroyed. A shaft at Roxborough, in the Leverington Cemetery, com- memorates some Virginia soldiers who were killed near here. General Armstrong, Commander of the Pennsylvania Militia, 12 wrote to President Wharton, October 5, 1777 : " We cannonaded from the height on each side of the Wissahickon ; one field piece we got away, the other I was obhged to leave on the horrendous hills of the Wissahickon." The first building on the roadway is Wissahickon Hall. Near here are two springs and a watering trough. The Hermit's Well is just outside of the Park limits. Near this locaHty a foot-bridge crosses the stream on the west side. The well was dug by John Kelpius, a scholar and mystic, who came from Sielenburgen, in Germany, in 1786. Near here used to be the Log Cabin, which contained a rude collection of stuffed animals. South of Hermit's Lane are two springs, also, the William Leonidas spring and water trough on the east side drive on the site of what was the Log Cabin. A quarter of a mile above the Leonidas Spring on the op- posite bank of the stream, is a high bluff called the " Lover's Leap." This rock stands 2(X) feet above the water. Here is a small shelter pavilion. From the base of this rock a deep glen follows the stream. This is called " The Hermits Glen." To some imaginative people who have climbed to the top of this rock, the scene is not unlike the table rock at Niagara Falls. Hermit's Lane Bridge crosses the stream here below Ritten- house Street. Here is Indian Arrow Spring. Another half mile a bend in the stream occurs, and a creek called Paper Mill Run flows into the Wissahickon in a series of little waterfalls. Near here stands the old house in which David Rittenhouse was born, and near the source of the creek the first paper mill in America was erected in 1690, by Ritten- house's ancestors. David Rittenhouse, the astronomer, was of Dutch ancestry. His first great work was the famous Orrery, now at Princeton College. His next mathematical feat was a series of calcula- tions marking the transit of Venus over the sun's disc. He was State Treasurer from 1777 to 1789, afterwards Director of the Mint, and was President of the Philosophical Society from 1 79 1 to 1796. 13 Beyond here the road reaches a bridge which used to be called the Red Bridge, now is the Blue Stone Bridge, a short distance below Walnut Lane. On the other side of the stream towers Mom Rinker's Rock. This rock, with the exception of Indian Rock, is the grandest boulder of them all. A statue of William Penn with the inscription " Toleration " is placed here on top of the rock. It was presented to the Park by John Welsh whose property it adjoins. Another quarter of a mile along is a mill in a gorge, and behind the mill is a steep hill. On its summit stands an oblong stone building, known for a century as the Monastery. Near here is a spring. In the valley below (the Willow Glen) there is a spot known as the Baptistry. Here the monks gave their converts a ducking. The scenery at this point is most attractive. A mile farther on are certain caves. These caves are situated in a picturesque valley formed by a junction of the Wissahickon with a small stream. They evidently are the work of man searching for something years ago, or perhaps shelter places for the aborigines. In the distance a Blue Stone Bridge comes to view on the site of a former Red Bridge, and here is one of the landscape's surprises. Along the bank on the opposite side in early spring or autumn is seen the effect of a forest of deciduous trees growing amongst evergreens. The Pipe Bridge used to be a little farther along. It carried the water supply from Roxborough to Mt. Airy reservoir. This is known also as Allen's Lane Bridge. It was a graceful structure lifted a considerable height above the stream. Two twenty-inch water mains formed the top cord of the bridge. Curious to relate, Dr. Franklin in his will dated 1780, recom- mended " As a mark of his good will, a token of his gratitude, and a desire to be useful after his departure, that a portion of this legacy left to accumulate for the benefit of the City of Philadelphia, be employed at the end of one hundred years, 14 if not done before, in bringing by pipes the water of Wissa- hickon Creek in to the town, so as to supply the inhabitants." A hundred yards above the Pipe Bridge, a wooden bridge crosses the stream, and if a footpath be followed for a short distance, Cresheim Creek will be found, which joins the Wissa- hickon, and at this point is the Devil's Pool. It is a weird mass of rocks and tree trunks casting their shadows into a pool. The road reaches a quarter of a mile beyond this bridge, where the hills open out into sunlight. Here a stone bridge, called Springfield Avenue Bridge, crosses the stream, and on a clear day its reflection in the water seems an entire oval in masonry. Here is Valley Green and the Inn here is a stopping place for Park visitors. Half a mile further on the left hand side of the road is a drinking fountain. It is covered with ferns and wild flowers, and is the first drinking fountain erected in this part of the country. Its date is 1854. A clear, cool spring fills the basin, above cut in the stone are the words " Pro Bono Publico " and belpw " Esto Perpetua " — " For the Public Good let it remain forever." The fountain was a joint gift of John Cook and Charles ]\Iagargee in 1871. In addition, they donated the ground around it to the Park Commissioners. Half a mile farther on the opposite side of the stream is Indian Rock, on which stood a wooden figure of Tedyscung now replaced by a granite statue. He was supposed to repre- sent the last chief of the Lenni Lenapi tribe of Indians. The road continues on a mile farther to the northern limits of the Park, at Thorp's Mill Lane. Here it crosses Thorp's Lane Bridge and by a steep ascent reaches Chestnut Hill, where splendid views in almost every direction greet the visitor. In addition to the general condemnation of ground for the extension of the Park in 1896, and the recent purchases and gifts, the Wissahickon area has been largely extended. Lin- coln and Cresheim Valley drives and the Rittenhouse statue and entrance to the Park are but a few of the newest additions that are well known. * IS In all, nearly one hundred and fifty acres of ground have been added to this section of the Park since 1900. The splendid concrete bridge from Johnston Street, German- town, and approaches to Walnut Lane, Roxborough, is one of the engineering feats of the country. A more romantic and picturesque pleasure ground with natural advantages cannot be found in any other pubhc Park in the world. At Chestnut Hill it may not be amiss to add that very hand- some private residences and gardens fringe the Park domain. There is a trolley station at Belmont and Parkside Avenues in the West Park — the cars of which run on the extreme west boundary of the West Park on which there are several way stations, as far as the Trolley Bridge, over the river it then proceeds to Strawberry Mansion in the East Park at the entrance of Dauphin Street and returns the same way. Also in the summer time a few small river steamboats start at the boat landing just opposite the Lincoln Monument in the East Park, and they stop at several landings on both sides of the river as far up as the Wissahickon, returning the same route. A few trolleys run from all sections of the city to the Park. Small rowing and motor-boats may be hired at the Public Boat House near the steamboat landing. THE WEST PARK THE southern end of the West Park commences at the northwest end of the lower deck or roadway of Callowhill Street bridge. This is Thirtieth Street. Turning abruptly north the West Park road commences and runs down to the river edge and ends at City Line bridge, nearly four miles distant. The Pennsylvania Railroad is the boundary on the west side of this narrow strip of Park property up to Thirty-fourth Street, where the Zoological Garden commences, and this is bounded on the south and west by the railroad, being shaped like a semicircle, meeting at both ends Thirty-fourth Street, which is its eastern side, and just enough of Girard Avenue on the north to form an entrance to the Garden, which covers a tract of land of over Thirty-three acres. Girard Avenue at this point going west as far as Fortieth Street is the boundary of this section of the Park. At Fortieth Street a branch avenue starts, called Parkside Avenue, and this is the southern Park boundary up to Fifty-second Street. Most of the intervening streets running north enter the Park alongside of these avenues, all of which is known as West Philadelphia. Returning to the Zoo, at the front entrance on Girard Avenue is a bronze figure of a Dying Lioness, by Prof. Wilhelm Wolff, of Berlin, placed there on December 9, 1876. The Zoo is situated on what was known years ago as "Solitude." The mansion on this tract dates from 1785, and was erected by John Penn. John was the grandson of the founder of our state. It remained in the Penn family until purchased by the city. It is said that John Penn planted most of the trees around the house. Grandville John Penn, the great- grandson of the founder, was the last owner of " Solitude." He visited this country in 185 1, This estate was the last unsold property of the Penn family, 17 who once owned a vast portion of the State of Pennsylvania. The sale of the property and the release by himself in 1852 closes the long account of the great founder's name with our Commonwealth. Grandville Penn died at Stoke Poges, England, on March 29, 1867. The Zoological Garden is considered the second best in the country. It was opened to the public in 1874. The laboratory of the Garden is the first of the kind in the world devoted exclusively to the study of wild animal pathology. Crossing Girard Avenue, and going under the arches of the Pennsylvania Railroad bridge, is the commencement of Lans- downe Drive. It runs up hill and down dale to Horticultural Hall, a distance of a mile. Almost at the entrance of Lansdowne Drive, on the west side on an elevation, is erected the William Penn Brick House, removed from Letitia Street. It is assumed this was the first brick house erected in the city, and was built for Penn's daughter Letitia, whose name it bears. Her father did not grant the lot to her until the 29th of March, 1701. Penn lived there when it was first built, and when he returned to England it became the official residence of William Markham. On the east side is a bronze group, called the " Hudson Bay Wolves," by Edward Kemys, erected on September 28, 1872. Between this group and the bridge was a tract of land owned by William Warner, on which was built a club house called " The Colony in Schuylkill." Certain gentlemen, in 1732, fond of fishing, leased one acre of this land and enclosed it with a worm fence. For this ground they formally delivered to William Warner three sun perch fish on a large pewter plate as a yearly rental. They remained in this locality for ninety years, until civilization drove them away, and they relocated farther down the Schuyl- kill River near Bartram's Garden. During the Revolution this colony of anglers rose to the dignity of a state, which it now remains. The first governor of the club was Samuel Morris, who held the office for forty- six years; he died in 1812. At a dinner given here, Judge 18 Peters, a wit of the period, was seated next to General Whar- ton. The General wanted some wine, and calling to one of the younger members said, " Please call John." " I would suggest," said the Judge, " it would be safer to bring the ' Demi- John.' " The roadway now descends to go under the Junction Bridge, and rises as it approaches Sweet Briar Mansion. This is an old house built by Samuel Breck, who was born in Boston, in 1 771. He lived at Sweet Briar for thirty-eight years and was called Farmer Breck by his neighbor Judge Peters. He served four years in the State Senate, and made his name memorable by the bill he introduced for the final emancipation of slaves in Pennsylvania. He also was a member of the 1 8th Congress, and again was chosen State Senator and drew the bill for the establishment of the common school system of our state. He lived to welcome Lincoln to the city in 1861, and died August 22, 1862, aged ninety-one years. The ground in front of Sweet Briar, across the road, is now a children's play ground. On it is erected a clever bronze statue called " The Stone Age," by John A. Boyle. It was placed there in 1888 and is somewhat lost in the surroundings. A good pump giving refreshing water is on the north side of the house. The road now passes between a grove of venerable trees and emerges on the top of a rustic bridge which spans the Junction railway below. Here is a good view of the river and Lans- downe ravine. Just beyond the bridge is the Lansdowne con- course. Directly west of this looms up an extraordinary group of figures, called the Richard Smith Memorial, and further away the graceful dome of Memorial Hall is seen. Going through an imaginary entrance of the Smith statuary, Memorial Hall is reached. This was the Art Gallery of the Centennial Exposition and contains a varied collection of bric- a-brac, pictures, etc. On the southern front are two Pegasus, or Flying Horses, on either side of the steps and across the roadway is the Welsh Memorial. This cost $25,000. Passing through Memorial Hall, to the southern entrance, 19 and descending the high steps, a path leads to the statue of General Meade, by Alex. M. Calder, erected October i8, 1887. Near here used to be a bridge crossing Lansdowne ravine, but this was removed. If the walk leading to the bottom of the ravine be taken, a good spring will be found there. On the opposite side of the ravine glimpses of Horticultural Hall appear. The carriage road goes around the ravine, one branch of which leads to Belmont Avenue, the other continues to Horti- cultural Hall. On the way is passed the Japanese Garden, a relic of the Centennial Exposition. The site on which Horticultural Hall stands is the location of the Lansdowne Mansion, destroyed by fire on the 4th of July, 1852. The display of ferns and canes contained in this Hall is very pleasing to look upon. The Lansdowne Mansion and Estate contained some 200 acres, and was built before the Revolution. Joseph Bonaparte, ■ex-King of Spain, resided here ; its last owner prior to its pur- chase by the city was Lord Ashburton. In front of Horticultural Hall facing the east is a statue in marble called " Religious Liberty," by Moses Ezekiel. This was dedicated on July 4, 1875. On the western side of the Hall are statues of Schiller, Schubert, Verdi and Witherspoon, certainly a motley collection. From here running due west is a water garden, which in summer is tastefully laid out with aquatic plants. Going north after leaving Horticultural Hall, the road leads past a public baseball field at the foot of Belmont, and grad- ually ascends until the old Belmont Mansion comes into view. The estate of Belmont and the residence thereon is described by the Marquis de Chastellux in 1780. As " nothing can equal the beauties of the Coup d'oeil which the banks of the Schuyl- kill present on descending towards Philadelphia," at this loca- tion. The date of the erection of the main out-buildings is fixed by a monogram, T.W.P.-1745, cut in a slab set in the wall. It was the residence of Judge Peters. There was a chestnut tree near the mansion planted by Washington, also a white walnut planted by Lafayette during his visit here as the nation's guest in 1824. Downing says, " On this place twenty-five years ago was still standing the grandest avenue of hemlocks in America." The view from the hall door takes in an uninterrupted and slowly descending vista to the river, with the huge tower of City Hall in the far background, a view no other city in the United States can boast of. Richard Peters, the friend of Washington, was born in this house and died here August 22, 1828, aged eighty-four. He was the son of William Peters, and the nephew of Richard Peters, Secretary of the Land Office under the Penns. The father adhered to the crown, returned and died in England. Judge Peters ignored his mother country and espoused the cause of the Colonies. He was Secretary to the War Board during the Revolution, was a Congressman, and at the time of his death had sat as a United States District Judge for thirty- nine years. The road after leaving Belmont going northwest about 600 feet joins the Speedway, also Belmont Avenue. Alongside of the Speedway is the return drive ; both of these are a mile long and at the end is Chamounix. Chamounix has no legendary or historical associations ; it only asserts its position on a hill which was originally called Mount Prospect, on account of the fine view of the surrounding country from here. There used to stand near the mansion some giant trees, a black walnut, a tulip poplar and a chestnut. The mansion was built in 1802 by George Plumstead. After leaving Chamounix the drive runs about 500 feet north and then turns abruptly to the west for a little over a quarter of a mile, then runs north again and merges with the river road drive. Continuing in this direction for another quarter of a mile Roberts Hollow is passed and the drive enters City Line Avenue, the end of this portion of West Park. Continuing west along City Line Avenue for about half a mile, Belmont Avenue is reached, and then going south along 21 Belmont Avenue for another half mile on the second turning on the west side is a roadway leading to George's Hill, skirting the Twenty-fourth Ward reservoir on the north and the Ohio and Rhode Island Buildings on the south side before reaching George's Hill. The state buildings mentioned are relics of the Centennial Exposition. George's Hill comprises a tract of 83 acres ; an oval con- course 200 feet in diameter crowns its summit, which is 210 feet above the river. Spring water is forced up here for drinking purposes. This tract was given by Jesse and Rebecca George to the Park Commissioners. Most of this portion of the Park from George's Hill to Lans- downe concourse was the site of the Centennial Exposition in 1876. Leaving George's Hill at the northern side the roadway turns around, and passes the restaurant pavilion and runs east as far as the Catholic Total Abstinence Fountain. Here it branches south to Parkside Avenue and north it passes the English building, another Centennial relic. It then continues to Belmont Avenue, where turning to the south brings one to Parkside Avenue, the limit of the Park. Two small lakes are passed on the west side of Belmont Avenue, before Parkside Avenue is reached. The West River road mentioned at the start in this descrip- tion of the West Park runs along the water's edge of the Schuyl- kill, passing under Girard Avenue bridge and Columbia Avenue bridge. Just south of this bridge are the buildings of the Belmont Pumping Station, continuing along under the Trolley Bridge. The University Barge Club have their up-stream bungalow on the west side, and the Malta Boat Club have their house on the east side. Two other overhead bridges cross the roadway before it ends at City Line bridge. A slight description of the Centennial Exposition may not be out of place before closing the chapter of Fairmount Park. The Exposition grounds covered 236 acres. 22 The principal buildings were: the Main Building, covering 21 acres; Machinery Hall, covering 14 acres; Agricultural Hall, covering ioj4 acres; Art Gallery, covering ly^ acres; Horticultural Hall, covering i^^ acres. Total contract price for building, $4,444,000. A comparison of acreage of ground covered by the Centen- nial Exposition with other Expositions of the past is as follows : London 1851, 20 acres of enclosed buildings. New York 1855, 5^ acres of enclosed buildings. Paris 1855, 30 acres of enclosed buildings. London 1862, 24 acres of enclosed buildings. Paris 1867, 40^ acres of enclosed buildings. Vienna 1875, 50 acres of enclosed buildings. Philadelphia 1876, 75 acres of enclosed buildings. The names of Edison and Bell, whose electric inventions were first shown to the public here, have encircled the globe, and a style of architecture, which may be called the American Renaissance, also sprang into being at the Centennial Exposi- tion. / 7 GLENSIDE 3 BEECHWOOD tREt OF FtlRMOUNT PARK LNu-jpDi]Z]njjL_.CH, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS