MOWDTRAIN MC^SANDCM^ |:|IMI5 :0N SHOanNG AiND HUNTiNGGAME fKRiJEKICnU.ERB. JR. Class b^ H 3i Book Yh^. Copyrightible COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. How to Train Dogs and Cats Hints on Shooting and Hunting Game Life Experience of Frederick H. Erb, Jr. Press of Jennings & Graham Chicago LffiRARY of CONGRESS Two Cooles Received AUG 13 1904 A Cooyrleht Entry yUAx£y IV - 1 c^ ^ CLASS Du XXi. Na ' COPY B ^feO Copyright 1904 By Frederick H. Erb, Jt ^ FRED. ERB, JR. INDEX. A Dog on Point '2-2 Author Will Train Dogs to do Anything 94 Beagles 37 Broken Limbs 27 Chesapeake Bay Dog 36 Destroying Fleas U Difference Between Pointers and Setters i5 Dog Choking 27 Dogs Feeding 24 Dog Shows 34 Dogs IvIouthing a Bird 20 Dogs of Different Breeds 54 Ducks, Geese and Brant 59 Game Protection 43 Golden Plover 64 Gun Shy Dogs 21 Has Handled Over Three Thousand Dogs 25 Has Lost But Five Dogs 25 How TO Shoot 44 How TO Take a Gun Apart 45 Hunting Wagon 31 Infallible Remedy For Distemper 26 Infallible Remedy for Canker of the Ear . 26 Infallible Remedy for Mange 26 Jack Snipe 63 Life Experience With Dogs and Game 7 Loads for Trap Shooting 45 Model Kennels 30 Muzzling Dogs 29 Offensive Breath 26 Pheasant 66 Points to Remember 45 Prairie Chickens 69 Quail 64 Rabbit Shooting 59 Retrieving 19 Retrieving Wolf 41 Revolver Shooting 53 Rules for Field Work 12 Rules for Point Work 16 Rules for Training Dogs to Retrieve 9 Sending Dogs on Trial 32 Shipping Dogs 25 Shooting off Roller Skates 48 Sketch of Author's Life 86 Some of Author's Famous Scores 79 Squirrel Hunting 57 Stocking the State with Game 44 Teaching Dogs to Point 14 Teaching Dogs Not to Quarrel 24 Training Cats 56 Training Girls and Eoys to Shoot 51 Trick Dogs 38 Two Months Old Pointer 19 Two Months Old Setter 22 Unrivaled Record of Success With Distemper 25 Wild Turkeys 71 Wonderful Success Made by Author 74 Woodcock 68 Worm Medicine t6 A LIFE-TIME EXPERIENCE. After a life-times experience with dogs of all kinds, in all kinds of field zvork, at all seasons of the year and under every possible con- dition, I feel competent to claim a knozvledge of dogs, birds, gnns and game, that will be valuable as well as interesting to the reader. I have hunted for nearly forty years, from the time when I helped my father furnish game for the people crossing tJic plains and journey- ing to the unopened West, to the present day, and whether in the Mid- dle States, on the zucstern plains, or azvay down South, the pleasure and charm of the free, open air life has never been lost. My life has alzvays been in the Held from a youngster, and to the end of 7ny days I hope to roam over hills and prairies, among the game and birds, with my dogs and gun. Looking back through the years on the many happy days so spent, I offer to all the benefits of my life's experience, in the hope that by tJic aid of this book they may learn to know the value and necessity of a thorough training for the dog that is to be companion as well as helper in the long days of a hunt, and appreciate any facts that zvill help to preserve his health and usefulness and increase his knozvledge and ability. All lovers of cats zcill zuelcome my advice in regard to the care and training of them, and if my rules are follozved, none need to fear the slight illnesses that often cause so much anxiety, nor even the more serious ones, zuhilc the increased intelligence of the pets zvill more than repay the careful study of this book. RETRIEVERS. HOW TO TRAIN DOGS AND CATS. Hints on Shooting and Hunting Game. I find many ups and downs in different dogs of different breeds. Some people will say they have the only breed of dogs. Now, whai standpoint they get that from I would like to know. ]\Iy life's expe- rience has been that about two dogs out of ten show good nose scent, so you see that a person's chances are not the best to get a sure one, or a high class field dog, at all times. But you can reverse things by proper training and make fair field dogs out of them by breaking them to retrieve first, and teaching them to always stand their dead bird first before retrieving it. This will get them interested in their nose work and will give them a good start to use their noses on live birds in the field and will make fair shooting dogs out of them. I always like to start on a dcig at six months old. as he is then at the height of his ambition, and can be taught to do anything a great deal easier than when older, and nine times out of ten he will be ready to handle the coveys or flocks of birds he may come in contact with. The best dogs I have ever seen were brought up at that age. Ninety- nine men out of one hundred that own dogs do nothing but feed them well and keep them in a cellar or a closed yard for a year, then ask some handler to train their dogs. Off the dog goes, scared to death the minute he is j)Ut in the box for shipment until the handler gets him. Now, what does the handler do? The only thing for him to do is to pet and try to make friends with him. No success; let him loose and he runs off. and you can't help but say the handler is up against a hard proposition. But, if the owner would get off his pup at six months to the handler, or take the pup out walking so he would get used to seeing things, it would take all the cowardice out of him. Look at horses at one and two years old making world records ! They are not shut up in a box-stall and not let out, but are given plenty of good exercise and are petted, and this is the way dogs ought to be treated. When taking a young dog into the field let him go and do as he pleases for the first few times. This will encourage him to hunt and not be afraid of you, and get an idea of what you want him to do. Then, when you want him to settle down for work, so you won't have to whip him, or take any of his high ambition out of him, let him drag a chain, say about three feet long, and if he don't cut his ground up to suit you, hang two chains on him. N'ow, don't try to do this in one day, but take from ten days to two weeks; then put him on birds. You will see he will make points and hold his birds and will not jump in, as he will be afraid the chains will lick him. Don't get excited yourself, but let the dog get excited and anxious and you watch him. Some of the best dogs that ever lived will make many mistakes during the day, and the mistakes your dog makes will be easy to overcome by your watching him. Read this book over care- fully and pick out the best points that will help you work your dog. I have worked over three thousand dogs and traveled many miles over the country to show how dogs worked that I broke by the rules of this book. If you have a wild dog, hang a chain on him. Get a window weight about a foot long and snap a four foot chain in the hole in the weight, having the chain just long enough to lie on the ground at the dog's front feet, so that there will be no danger of his getting fast in anything. A week or ten days of this will make a different dog out of him. Keep the chain and weight on him until he minds you, but as soon as he minds, take the weight off and let him drag the chain, and when lie understands, he will stop running away or chasing chick- ens, and will be obedient to the voice or whistle. At first, when the chain is finally taken off, he will not go out far, but encourage him a little and he will soon begin to cut up his ground right and left, and if at the same time you train him to mind your whistle, or the move- ments of your hand to right or left, you will find that you will not have to call him or frighten the farmers or the game by loud noises. Ninety-nine men out of one hundred want a dog that don't get away from them more than fifty to one hundred yards. To have success in hunting you must keep your dog under control. If you have a dog that ranges wide and fast do not lose your head and get excited, as most hunters are apt to. If your dog is fast don't hunt fast, but every little while stop and let your dog locate you; but with the slow dog, follow him. If you want to go to the left or right, whistle, and the dog will look up and he will see you move your hand, which is a signal to go to the left or right. If you have a fast dog, hang a couple of chains on him and let him drag 10 them for a while till he gets to understand your signals, and when you have him under good command, take your chains off of him and you will be able to work the fast dog just as well as the slow dog. The chains will break nine out of ten dogs of this bad fault, and also teach a dog to quarter his ground up nicely. He will also pay all attention to you when you speak to him or blow the whistle, as he is on his guard, thinking if he don't mind you that you will put the chains on him again. No matter how tired he is, if he don't mind you, hang a chain on him until he does mind you. You will see some dogs coax and come in and stay around you and bark for you to take the chains off, so they can go out and do as they please, but don't pay any attention, go right along and the dog will go out and hunt when he sees you will not take the chain off. If your dog is broken by my system to make a perfect retriever out of him before you go into the field, you will not have any trouble. Teach your dog to have confidence in himself. I always teach a dog to retrieve first and to be obedient. I always say "Hold," and then "Go fetch dead." When he comes in with what he was sent after I say "Hold," raising my hand and then taking it from his mouth. Al- ways stand still and let your dog do the hunting, and retrieve the dead bird or bundle right up to you. Then, after I have him a nice retriever, I put him at the v/ords "Charge'' or "Drop." That means "Lie down." After you get him to charge nicely, then have him charge and stay there and you move back a few feet at a time; then say, "Come boy," moving the hand at the same time ; moving the hand comes handy when your dog is a long way off, and you want him to go to the left or right. Always blow your whistle also when you desire your dog to go to the left or right ; when you want your dog to come in from the field, blow your whistle two or three times in succession. Now, you have him under good control and ready to go in the field. If he don't get right out to hunt, don't say anything to him, and don't pet him; just go along and let him alone and he will go out him- self. Or, if you have a friend who has a dog that will hunt, it would be a good idea to have him go along with you and take his dog. Now, when your dog gets out to hunt, and will stay out, put him on game, and you will find that you will have very little trouble to keep him out, as now he is interested in the game. Then, if he chases, hang the chain on him a few times and he will quit it. 11 L.ofC. Now you are ready to shoot. Try and kill a bird once in a while, and say, "Go, hunt dead;" or "Fetch," also moving the hand, as you have the dog under good control. Always say, "Charge !" when you . shoot or the birds flushes. It is better for you a few times, when your dog points and the bird flushes, to watch your dog and just pull the gun off in the air. and j^ou can then see what bad tricks your dog has and catch him in the act. When you have your dog under good con- trol, he won't need any watching, and then you can enjoy shooting and have a fine day's sport. To teach a dog to follow, or what is called "heel." Tie him to the hind end of a wagon with a loose chain and drive slowly a few days and say "Heel." If he wants to go by the wheel, tap him back with the whip. Then always, when you want to let him loose, take him by the chain away from the wagon a little distance, and then say, "Go," or "Hunt him up." By moving the hand, also, after a few times this way, all you will have to do then is to get out of the buggy and let him loose, and he will be off and hunt from the buggy the same as afoot, and then you will have a dog that when you blow your whistle will come in and heel to the buggy as well as afoot and go at the command. The way to start a dog in the water — not too cold water — is for you to wade in small sloughs or ponds and lead the dog a few times and he will find out that it will be fun and will take to it in fine shape. But let this be in shallow water before you put him in deep water where he has to swim. Don't throw yotir dog in as it Vv'ill spoil him ; and don't try to have him go too far out in the water where he has to swim, the first time or two ; and then when he does swim, which will be on his own accord, he will go and fetch anything out of the water you send him after. Under my system of training, when the dog points, I go up to him and say, "Steady," calling him by name, and rub him down, and then pick him up by the tail. This teaches him not to be afraid; and then I look around for a while, and then walk in on the birds and always flush the birds myself, unless it is in a place I cannot see to shoot. Then I order my dog to go in and get them up, as we have to do in woodcock shooting a great deal. Then I use the word "Charge," or "Drop," or "Go fetch." or "Hunt dead." Remember to stand still and let your dog go "hunt dead" and 12 fetch it to you. If you see he can not tind it, then go an^ help him. Sometimes a dog's nose gets off, and he can not smell anything, or he is probably overheated, or has not the best nose, and by your helping him it will go a long ways toward making a perfect dog of him and will encourage him to do his work better. Always keep burrs combed out of your dog's flanks or wherever they can rub him. Always keep your dog out of a cold draught while riding; always feed the dog well. Judge a dog by yourself and treat him kindly. To teach the dog to jump in the wagon: Have the dog go a riding a few times, so he will like it, lifting him in a few times. Then he will try to get in himself, but assist him in a half way, so the dog will think he has done it all himself, and in a few times he will get in at the word "Jump." Have lots of patience and don't get mad and grunt and kick. Take it out on yourself. To keep a dog from barking, under my system of training, go out and strap him well ; then take a chain and put it around his neck and snap it a couple of times in the snap, whether he is tied or not and leave it on him, and a few strappings will break him of this ; and always say "Charge" or whistle when he barks. If he digs up in the kennel or yard, hang a chain on him and snap ■t once or twice around his neck, so that when he goes to dig, it will get tangled up in his feet, and he will soon quit. Any of the dog foods now on the market will do to feed a dog, as they are all good, and a dog can stand up to them in good shape. Always keep your dog clean and in a clean kennel. If your dog has fleas, take him away from the kennel to the woods or fields, and use this mixture : MIXTURE FOR FLEAS. Put one gallon of coal oil in a jug; then take two pounds of com- mon vaseline and melt in a bucket on the stove, and then pour in the jug with the coal oil and it will mix. Saturate a cloth or sponge with the mixture and soak your dog from head to foot, and he will ru^i around and drop the fleas. It will take all the old or dead hair ofi' the dog, which will soon be replaced with a new growth. Always take your dog away from the kennel when applying the mixture. By doing this a few times you will get rid of the fleas in your kennel. You 13 can never destroy fleas around a kennel except by burning them up, and as fleas breed every 12 to 24 hours, the warmer the weather the quicker, they accumulate very rapidly. But by taking yoar dog away from the kennel when you apply the mixture, you will soon get rid of them even around your kennel, as you thus prevent their multiplying. Apply the mixture once a week and about half a mile from the kennel. You don't need to wash your dog if you do not want to, as it w'ill not hurt him. To teach your dog to honor another dog when pointing : If your dog is not a natural backer on sight of another dog that has a point, don't undertake to lick him into a back, as nine dogs out of ten are made cowards in this way ; it must be natural for them to back. Let your dog drag a chain to the collar, the heavier the better. There is nothing that will make a dog cut up his ground and hunt better and do it on his own accord. After a week or ten days you will have this all done. If the dog is a fast and wild one, put double chains on him; if he is a rabbit chaser, let hmi run one or two and drag the chain, and then take a strap and tan his jacket good, and he will soon quit chasing. If your dog chases tame chickens, hang the chain on him ; there is nothing like letting a dog break himself of all his bad faults. I will take the worst chaser and in ten days break him. Anyhow, I don't believe in howling and whistling all the time at a dog. POINT WORK. "What is his point work?" is the flrst question asked nine times out of ten by amateurs and people who have never seen a dog point. There are two different ways by which dogs find game to point — by wind scent and by ground scent. The air or wind scent points are all made at a long distance by dogs that hunt with a high head, and they go like the wind without a stop. The ground scent points are made at shorter distances and the dog runs with his nose close to the ground, like a hound trailing coon or rabbit. While you are hunting there may be a day when the birds don't move much, and there is no wind blowing. If, then, you have a high- headed dog depending on the wind scent, he will lose out against the dog that is nosing the ground all the time, as the birds don't have to 14 POINT WORK. move much for him to smell them, and so he gets into many Hkcly places that the high-headed dog passes. Under most conditions of time and place, he is the dog for the amateur who goes out but once or twice a year to kill game over. Very few dogs make a point alike. I'he reason probably is that they do not catch the scent the same way, and so the points are not quite the same. In the same way the dogs' tails move differently. There is a certain movement which the tail must make before it can stiffen out, and the direction of the scent seems to determine the posi- tion of the tail. We know dogs' tails are. a guide to them. To prove this, watch a dog while swimming and see if he does not use his tail to guide him. If a dog that cannot swim be put in shallow water, he will only splash vvith his front feet, but take him into deep water, put one hand under his breast and with the other hold his tail out of the water, then give him a little push with the hand on the breast and let go of the tail at the same time, and you will see him start swimming with a moving tail. The moving of the front feet and the tail floats him and the tail acts as a guide. Many men, even writers of books, think that a pointer is an easier dog to train and care for than a setter. To one who knows how, it is 15 no more trouble to handle a setter than a pointer, for the field. The question is merely one of choice, as the care and training are practically the same. If a dog is wanted for the water, the setter is the better dog on account of his coat. Never cut a setter's coat, as it makes it rough, but keep it smooth and glossy by combing it frequently with a large toothed comb. Keep your dogs free from fleas and lice. The fleas are bred in the dust and the lice come from pigeon lofts or chicken houses. Always pick the wood ticks out of your dogs' or cats' ears. If your dog or cat hurts himself, always pet him. Use toilet water in a pet's bath, to perfume his coat. Keep a clean kennel or box, and keep the kennel yard clean. Al- ways have a shovel and broom at hand to use as needed. If the ken- nel yard is dusty, wet it at night and it will be fresh in the morning. Keep 3^our dog close at night and don't let him bark. Go out to him if he does and hang a chain or bell on him, and if he is bound to bark strap him a few times, using the word "Charge" and blow the v/histle. He will soon learn to stop and if he begins again, start after him with the strap, saying "Charge," and he will understand and be quiet. A few nights will cure him. When your dogs or cats have fits or spasms, are poor and thin, and you can't fatten them ; when their hair looks rough and falls out, and they have a dry, hot nose, and their ^yes look badly, treat them for worms. WORM MEDICINE. Have a pill made from one and a half grains of powdered areca nut to the pound weight of the dog or cat, and give the pill on an empty stomach, after a twelve hours' fast. Open the dog's mouth and push the pill down the throat with the finger. Follow this in two hours with one teaspoonful of castor oil, if for a small dog or cat ; one and a half, if for a large one, or even two spoonfuls. Two hours after giving the oil, feed a little soft food, such as bread and gravy. Any druggist can make the pill. TEACHING A DOG TO POINT. It is not an easy thing to teach a dog to point. In the first place, a great many dogs have not a good nose scent, and many times there is no chance to find game to work the dogs on. I have found it easy to make a dog point no matter how young he itACHiNO A DO*.> lO POiiNi. was, by lireaking him to retrieve first ; then when sending him after the dead bird, I would call "Hold," just as soon as I saw him making scent on the bird, and it always won a point. When I first take a dog to the field and find a flock of birds, I do not shoot at them. In this way I get the dog interested and he will begin to point right and left. Then I walk up to the dog and say, "Hold," and pet him, and from that time on I will have no more- trouble. If a dog offers to stand tame chickens on the road or in the yard, encourage him by petting him. It will soon teach him that you expect him to stand or point. Of course, a great many think that standing by sight hurts a dog's field work. It does not hurt him at all. This shows the good qualities of the dog and that he has lots of game sense. When he scents the birds in the field he will be that much steadier and n^ake a nicer point than a green dog that knows nothing about point- TEACHING A DOG TO POINT. ing. Always try to get a dead bird of some sort to work your dog on. By breaking a dog to retrieve, by my system, he will always point his dead bird before he retrieves it. When you start your dog on point work be sure and go where you will find birds. Don't get excited when he points or flushes, but just lilow the whistle, which means to wait until you come to him ; keep cool and talk to him, saying "Steady" and "Hold." Have a whistle in your pocket at all times and blow it often, that the dog may get used to it and understand why you blow it and what it means. If your dog is fresh and unused to exercise, and is off like a shot as soon as freed, hang a chain on him and he will soon settle down and behave himself. Use the following words in the field : "Go hunt dead," "Go hunt him up." "Move to the right," or left, "Charge," or lie down, "Come heel," walk close to you, "Heel to the wagon," "Jump in the wagon," by name, and out the same way. Commence on a dog while young to work him in the field, or anywhere else, and the less words and noise you make in breaking him the better for both you and him. 18 RETRIEVING A BIRD. When you kill game, kt your dcg go and retrieve the dead, while you stand still, and let him fetch it to you. When he hrings in the hird always have him hold it a minute, while you raise your hand, and then take the bird from his mouth, and don't forget to pet him. The accompanying illustration shows a two-months-old puppy, which has been broken with my training device to retrieve. He has just. made TWO MONTHS OLD POINTER RETRIEVING. a retrieve about four hundred yards away in the timber, and wdien about twenty-five yards away was ordered to stop by saying "Charge," and raising a hand. He does not offer to drop the bird, but waits 19 the word of command. This is only one of the thousands of dogs I liave broken with my device, and I stand ready to go to any part of the world to show how easy it is to make fine retrievers of dogs from I wo months old and upwards, for use on land or water. ■iP|BiB| hHI/^B^ J ^^fl^^l B-A 1 p ^^^^'''''* ^w^-'*^'- "la^^^l l^^^^^^k. rir MOUTHING A BIRD. When a dog mouths a bird, after he picks it up. and starts to come to you mouthing it, follow these rules : Take a strap abqut a foot long, and calling your dog up to you. strap him across the nose two or three times. 20 Do this several times a day, at home, till he dodges the strap. Always hold him by the collar. After this send him out for the training sack and when he picks it up say "Hold," and walk toward him and shake the strap at him. He will soon have confidence in you and will know that he will get strapped across the nose. Repeat this several times, then take a dead bird and throw it out, give him the same lesson he had with the sack, and if he offers to mouth the bird, strap him across the nose. Then take him to the field and send him alter a bird and repeat the lesson, if needful ; l):it after a few days you will never have any more trouble with him on that ?core. The great secret in training a dog is to put him under command and not have him afraid of yon. IREAKING GUN SHY DOGS. Gun-shy dogs and bird-sh}' dogs are not so easily broken. My suc- cess in breaking them is due to my getting them interested in their own natural way. It is natural for a dog to like to carry and fetch. Under my system of training, I always teach them to retrieve first. As soon as I have a dog retrieving a bird of any kind in my yard T 21 have his confidence and have him interested in bird work and there is then no fear of his not going after the birds. When he will do this, you are ready to go into the field with him. Work him several days in the field without shooting a gun. You will soon see that he will get interested in the live birds. Be sure and kill a bird when you shoot, so that he can go and retrieve it for you. You will soon see how easy it is to break him by my system. It is a great waste of lime and bad for the dog to start him. as so many do, by shooting revolvers in the air, simply that the dog may hear the sound of the gun. There is no sense in that. While breaking a dog under my system of retrieving, using the rules found in my book, which accompanies the training device, no time will be lost, and the dog will advance rapidly and surely. TWO MONTHS OLD SETTER. The illustration of a two and a half-month-old full blooded setter pup, broken by the use of my training device, and which is seen retrieving a prairie chicken, shows the pup handling himself on game in the field like an old dog with a life experience on game. Commence with a dog young, give him a show, and see how quickly he learns. Many, when working, a dog in the field, grow careless about the position in which to hoH^ the gun when shooting over a point, and so the need is felt of showing how to hold it to avoid all danger of acci- dents. The dog is on point and in this case the field is open. In shooting over a point in the brush or corn field, carry the gun high, as it is easier to handle and there will be no danger of it hitting anything. All accidents happen by holding the gun down low. Either 22 ADVANCING ON GAME. - it catches in some obstruction, or, as the gun is raised, while swinging around quickly, the finger slips and another "accidental discharge" is added to the list of casualties. i\Iany a good dog has been killed in FEEDING TIMID DOGS. this way. Never go through a fence with the gun loaded, or set it down, if onl}^ for a minute, with the load in it, but take the load out. Feeding a bunch of dogs together is an excellent way to teach them to behave themselves and not quarrel. It is also a very good way to Ijreak timid dogs. I have had gentlemen from all parts of the world at my home, and after watching me feed as many as eighty-four dogs at a time, without a growl, or a bit of noise from one of them, have said it was a wonderful exhil^ition of good temper and training. It' a dog is timid and will not eat with the others at first, do not make the GIVING A DOG MEDICINE. 24 mistake of humoring him, but let him alone. He may not eat for a day or two, but he will soon get over that when he gets hungry and will be the first at the feed and will rapidly outgrow his timidity. After the dogs become used to eating together, begin to feed them on chains, one at a time, and they will soon understand that they are to wait their turns and keep quiet. Always use the word "Charge" and always mean just what you say. Accustom the dogs to the sound of the whistle as a signal that you are going to feed them and they will soon be as well behaved as one could wish. I find that table scraps, cooked meats and dog biscuits are the best all-around food for all kinds of dogs. Corn meal and much green stufif is bad for them, as it puts them in bad condition, either to work or to keep in the kennel, and will cause them to eat all kinds of dirty stuff. There are many diseases that a dog has to contend with. When a dog is sick treat him the same as you w^ould wish to be treated. Take care of him ; don't stick him off out of the way in some old box or cold place and then wonder why he don't get well. Watch him, that he does not get tired of lying on one side and help him turn over once in a while. Bear in mind that a dog sweats just like a person. Now, if you keep your dog in a cold kennel he v\-ill draw his head, towards his Hanks when he goes to sleep, and his hard breathing will make him sweat ; he will take cold and sickness will follow. To remedy this, oil his front and hind flanks w^ith the medicine given on page 26. and so ward off much sickness and disease. Keep the dog in a dry place and don't let him get wet or roll in the dirt. I have handled over three thousand dogs and have only lost live, which remarkable record 1 attribute to my medicine and to my good nursing. SHIPPING DOGS. In shipping dogs, great care should be taken, as there is much liability to danger and sickness. Whether a puppy or a grown dog, he should always be put in a tight box, with open slats on top, and an opening three inches wide around the upper side of the box, with plenty of room, so that the dog can stand up and move around. Have plenty of bedding in the box and a water can in one corner of it, close up to the top. Put two cross pieces on the bottom, so that the dog will be up off of the floor; then bore a few holes in the bottom, under the watering can, so that any water spilt from the can will leak out and not wet the bedding. Always put a handle on each end of the box, so that it can be easily handled, and see to it that no draft can go through the box, to avoid the danger of the dog lying in it and so taking cold. In shipping a dog a long distance, put plenty of dog biscuits in the box and always give a light feed before you ship him. An ofifensive breath in either dog or cat is often caused by a bad condition of the kidneys. Procure a small bottle of "Harlem Oil," costing ten cents, from any druggist. For a small cat or dog, give five drops on a little sugar ; for larger dogs, eight to ten drops. Re- peat once or twice a week. Harlem Oil is also a fine remedy for matterated eyes. Directions for Use. — Drop one drop in each eye twice a day, morn- ing and evening. INFALLIBLE REMEDY FOR DISTEMPER. ' The following medicine is one which I value very highly and con- sider the chief cause of my wonderful success in keeping my dogs strong and healthy : Prescription : One quart of raw linseed oil. One half pint oil of tar, One pound of sulphur. ]\Iix well in a jug and use as directed. For Distemper. — Rub the medicine well into the dogs' flanks and between his legs and he will lick it off. Do this once a week. If- he is a growing dog, give a large spoonful every other day ; small dogs and cats in proportion. For a Bad Case of ]Mange. — Rub the oil all over him twice a week. For a Bad Cough. — Give a teaspoonful after coughing. For Canker oe the Ear. — Drop ten drops in each ear twice a day. If the ear is very bad, drop a teaspoonful down it, which can be easily done by laying the dog down on the side opposite the sore ear, raising the flap of the ear and pouring the medicine in. The medi- cine will then run in easily and reach the sore places. Bandage the EXTRACTING A BONE FROiM A DOG'S THROAT. ear by tying a cloth around the head for fifteen or twenty minutes, so that the medicine cannot run out and by that time it will all be ab- sorbed. Sometimes a dog will get a bone or other obstruction in his throat and choke. Call for a broom handle and while keeping the dog on his feet by holding him firmly between j^our legs, hold his mouth wide open by pushing the handle well back across the dog's mouth. Now reach over the handle and pull the bone out. But never try to push the obstruction down. You can clean or even pull his teeth the same way. If a dog refuses to take his medicine without fighting, give it to him in this way, whether it be pill or liquid. It is easy to set the broken limb of a dog. I have set many a one. Once I had a dog that in jumping over a fence, fell into a ditch on the other side. I was many miles from home and all alone, but I set the limb right then and there. 27 SETTING A BROKEN LIMB. The first thing to do is to draw the leg into a natural position. Then take two pieces of light hoard, one-eighth of an inch thick and about the width of the dog's leg; have the boards full long, wrap them with cotton and over this draw a strip of cloth about two inches wide. Bring the boards one on each side of the broken leg and draw the strip tight, wrap it tightly around the splints about a dozen times and tie firmly. Change the bandage every few days, as the leg wiM swell more or less and the bandage will work loose, which must be prevented ; it must be kept tight and firm. For a Dog with a Broken Hip or Shoulder. — Put him in a small p'ace so that he cannot turn around and so lie on the broken part. Tlierc is no use in trying to keep a bandage on a broken hip or shoulder on account of the shape. Have two or three places for the dog to lie in, so that he will have a dry place at all times. Have a wall built about three or four feet high, so that he cannot climb out, for he will get very tired of lying in this place for five or six weeks ; but the quieter he is the sooner he w^ill get well. 28 To change a dog with a broken limb or a sick dog from one place to another, pick him up by taking hold of him at the center of his hips or back and at the back of his neck; he will feel no pain when you handle him so. Lay him down on the side that is not broken. If lie seems cross, muzzle him while setting the limb and pet him ; give him anything he wants to eat. so that he will gain strength. MUZZLING A DOG. It is cruel to keep a muzzle on a dog and useless, too. There is not a single good reason why a dog should be so tortured. No wonder he gets cross. It make-^ me tired to hear so much aliout mad dogs. What makes 29 a clog have fits is worms, that work either on the brain or the stomach, and so cause the fits and frothing at the mouth. Then some one runs and says that the dog is mad. If he were left alone he would lie stiil and after a while get up and stagger off and recover. But he is tor- mented till he gets wild. He should be treated for worms and given my medicine. This will cure him. A MODEL KENNEL. A thoroughly sanitary kennel should be raised three feet off the ground. Through the summer months the space under the flooring should be left open for the air to circulate freely and so keep the kennei cool and clean. This will also prevent any odor. In the winter time this space should be banked up to keep the floors warm. In this way the dogs are well cared for throughout the entire year. Never use a disinfectant about the kennel, as it injures the dog's nose and makes him sick. If he is troubled with fleas, take him away from the kennel and use my flea mixture ; if he has the distemper, use my distemper medicine. 30 HUNTING WAGON. There is nothing nicer than to have a hunting wagon to carry your dogs in whether you have two or twenty. It is easy to make a crate to set on a wagon bed. Have the crate built of slats two inches apart, and so made that the dogs cannot stand up in it ; then they will not quarrel or make dirt of any kind. Have the crate made with a double deck, the top rounding and covered with a good oil cloth, thoroughly A\ aterproof. ,. M ^1 ^^^^^^EC^Bliv^tBnRS^^^^b j^m^-' ■1 ■ V ■' ■ A MODEL HUNTING WAGON. The second deck will permit a free circulation of air. and so keep the dogs cool, and can be used to store the guns and hunting outfit and the feed for the dogs. In stormy w^eather the oilcloth covering can be let down to completely cover the sides and the dogs will be kept dry and warm. There should always be plenty of clean straw for them to lie on. Have a hinge door made at the rear, that is, a door that can be raised or dropped, and have the dogs get in that way. Always carry a five-gallon jug of water in warm weather, as the dogs need water 31 often, and don't fail to make room for it. Carry feed as well. In this way your dogs will be safely carried, they will not bother any one on the road, and will be fresh to hunt when game is reached. This is the way to hunt to enjoy it, regardless of weather. f i. 44| ■ s -i ■ '■ 3«4s|^L ^ ■ "'^^^i- (lii^^^l .^Ippia ^^9^1 SENDING A DOG ON TRIAL. My advice is often asked in regard to sending dogs on trial. Don't do it. A handler can handle a dog on game without trouble, while ■c\ stranger might not be able to do anything with hihi. One great rea- son for this is that the stranger will probably put the dog in some lonesome place, perhaps for days, until he is read}' to go out hunting, to try the dog. The dog should be given time and opportunity to become acquainted before being tested; then he should be taken where there is game to be worked on. There is no use in having a dog shipped to a person who knows little or nothing about dogs, or who goes out hunting but once or twice a year. And another thing, no dog can work unless given game to work on. The occasional hunter has lots to learn about clogs; how to handle them and what to expect of them in the field. It is folly to want to have a green dog trained by the month, as many require. This demand accounts for the many failures in training by unscrupulous handlers, who promise what they know they cannot perform, for the sake of getting the work other more conscientious handlers have refused. If a dog is to be trained, let him be well trained, to retrieve, to point, to mind gun or whistle, and be under good command at all times, and he will show up a good nose and learn to handle it on game. This cannot be done in one month. There are many things to take into consideration — continued wet weather, cold, raw days, pos- sibly the dog may get sick or lame, it may be too hot to work the dog, or too windy or bad for game, and all these things take time. The best thing to do is to make a contract with the handler, one- half down when the dog is received, the balance when the dog is broken perfectly, and is ready to show on game. Many delay the first payment for a month or two and then order the dog home on the pretense that he has been sold and promise a check on receipt of the dog. This they do, expecting to get a well broken dog on the cheap plan. A handler will not do much with a dog till he gets his first pay- ment, made according to contract, unless he knows with whom he is dealing. Again, they will order the dog home by express C. O. D., and then go and claim him and try to persuade the express company to give him up. Sometimes they succeed and then there is more trouble for the handler in making his claim good. Under my system, I get the dog to retrieve and understand what I say during the first month. Then the work of the second month in the field comes easy to him and the dog shows up in great shape. It takes time for the handler to learn how good the dog's nose is and what he is going to be good for. About the first of May is the best time to send a dog to the hand- ler. Then the weather is generally fine and there is little sickness among dogs. Of course, the handler will keep his dogs in a good kennel, dry and clean, but if the dog has been kept in the house, the change will be less sudden than in colder weather. Keeping a dog too warm, much 33 washing in either cold or hot water, and the excitement and exposure that always attend dog shows, are some of the chief causes of sickness among dogs. When a handler sends word that a dog is perfectly broken and ready to go home, either go to the handler's home or pay him to bring the dog to you and so see for yourself just how he is to be handled. It will be money well spent and will not only be very pleasant, but will help you in the future handling of your dog. PUTTING A DOG IN SHAPE FOR A DOG SHOW. When it is desired to put a dog in shape for a dog show, many points must be considered. One of the first is the condition of his coat. Instead of washing him in water and so rendering him liable to sickness, rub him thoroughly with the following mixture: Mixture. — One pound best vaseline, One pmt olive oil. Mix well. 34 Rub thoroughly into the hair and leave on for a couple of hours With a good brush work the oil well into the coat, back and forth and after the liair is well loosened by the hand brushing, comb it carefully with a coarse comb. When well combed, take a soft towel well warmed, and rub the hair till it is fine and dry. Repeat this once a week and there will be a great improvement in the dog's looks While at the show, rub the oil on each night and leave it, brushing, combing and polishing it m the morning. PUTTING A DOG IN SHAPE FOR A DOG SHO W. CHESAPEAKE BAY DOGS. Chesapeake Bay dogs are probably the best and most widely known of water dogs. They are as much at home in the water as an otter, and no matter how cold the water is, or how much ice is running, will go anywhere for dead game and retrieve it to you. They will dive CHESAPEAKE BAY DOG. after a crippled duck, no matter how deep he goes. They are fine dogs to locate a dead bird at a distance, either on land or water, and never lose a bird when sent out after it. They have a keen scent and are great hunters anywhere you put them. I have handled a great many of them and have always made fine re- trievers out of them. They can be broken very easily by the use of my training device. They are of a more of less nmid disposition and must be given kind treatment. They are easily put under com- mand of the M^histle, will v/ork to the motion of the hand, right or left, obey all commands and secure all game killed. BEAGLES. The king of rabbit dogs is the beagle. Small, alert, wonderfully clever, always wide awake and ready for fun or wor4<:, a beagle is a constant source of pleasure to either child or man.. He is easily trained and is quick to learn, and makes a good house dogmas well as rabbit dog. The first thing to teach a young beagle is to mind either word or whistle. Then take a horn to use as a signal, when going out hunting. Always start out when you blow the horn, and if the dog is an>- where within a mile of the house, he will soon come with a rush and on the full cry. In beginning to work him for rabbits, drag a piece of meat on a line for about ten feet, so that he cannot see it ; then put it on a stick two feet off the ground, so that he will have to use his nose on the wind scent, and he will be quick to catch either the ground or wind scent. Always change the location of the lesson, when drag- ging the meat and increase the distance as rapidly as possible. As soon as he is well under command, get him on rabbits in the 37 field, and when he chases one, encourage him to bark. If he is a barker or "singer" he will keep at it while chasing. If he fails to bark, train him to do so at home by hissing him on at anything around the house and he will soon begin to "sing." When he starts a rabbit, stand still and he will either chase the rabbit to you or hole it. In case he holes it, try and get it out for him, to show him that you are doing all you can to help him. If he is too fast and drives the rabbit out of the country, hang a chain two feet long on him, and it will cut his speed down ; but take the chain off when he gets tired. If a rabbit is started right off on a dead chase, he will soon hole or run out of the country, so train the dog to let the rabbit run slow and make circles, and the dog will soon learn to follow and drive the game around to you. I always teach my beagles to retrieve a rabbit and when they make a catch to bring in the dead. This encourages them to hunt for more game. I use the same rules as for pointers and setters. TRICK DOGS. It is not hard to teach small dogs to perform all manner of tricks. They are always ready to play and a little spare time now and then is 38 all that is needed. Ten minutes, four or five times a day, will be enough to teach many amusing tricks and the dog will think it all good fun. The younger the dog is, the easier it will be to teach him. Take, for instance, a six-months-old puppy. The first thing to teach him is to speak when spoken to. Until he does this, keep him out of the house. Begin by feeding him and always feed him out of the hand. In this way he will have to look up when being fed and will learn to carry a high head. When feeding him, raise the hand a little with each bit fed until he has confidence enough to rise on his hind feet. In a few times he will get to jumping for his meat and then, when he does that, say "Speak," which he will soon learn to do. As soon as he speaks once, give him a bit of meat. Keep this up with him for several days and he will soon speak you out of the house. Now, he is where he can be trained to be neat in the house. Bring him into the part you intend to keep him in. Begin in the morning, after he has been fed from the hand. After he has eaten, say to him, "Speak," and "Do 3'ou want to go out?" If he don't speak at once, walk out and close the door and call him by name and he will soon speak. Call him several times while the door is closed, and say to him "Speak," and he will soon understand what you want of him. Then give him a little walk and on your return to the door ask him to speak, which will mean that he wants to go into the house. If he don't speak, close the door and leave him out until he does speak, but keep calling him by name. When you give him a new lesson take time to make it clear to him and remember that anything that is worth doing is worth doing well. The dog will do his best to under- stand and obey. Be clear in giving the directions always. To teach him to sit up : Take him and set him up against the wall or in a corner of the room. At first you must hold him up and pet him. After several lessons in this way, you will have him so that he will not be afraid to sit up alone. Repay him for this by giving him a bit of meat, but he must not be overfed while learning tricks. Next bring him away from the wall, or corner, and say to him, "Sit up," and nine times out of ten he will run and sit up against the wall, but let this go. Call him out kindly, and have him sit up away from the wall or corner; if he insists on going back, call him out and as- sist him as at first. He will soon be able to sit up alone. 39 To teach him to jump: Take a small stick from two to three inches long, and put it on a couple of blocks, say six inches high, and hyve him jump over it. By holding a bit of meat in your hand he will jump, but be careful not to have the stick high at first, or he will be afraid to try. Encourage him to jump higher and he soon will be anxious to jump as high as he can. To teach him to lie down or roll over : This is a great thing to teach a dog. Take both hands and lay the dog down on his back and then roll him from one side to the other. Do this several times and after the lesson feed him a bit of meat. Now, say to him, "Roll over,'" and he will lie down and try to do it. If he fails, assist him and he will soon learn what you want of him. To teach him to sit up in a chair: Here is where his jumping will come in. Tap on a chair and say to him, "Ji-nnp," and when he jumps in the chair, tell him to sit up; if he shows any fear, assist him. Give him a bit of meat and he will not mind being so far from the floor. Now, put him in a rocking chair and gently rock it. Give him a bit of meat and he will soon be able to rock himself. To teach a dog to find a hidden article : To do this, a dog must be broken to retrieve or carry, and this can be learned by the use of the Erb Patent Training Device. After he has been taught to retrieve or carry things, roll up a handkerchief with some perfume on it, put it down some few feet away and say to the dog, "Go fetch," or "Go bring," and when he brings it to you, say "Sit up," and give him a bit of meat for this and pet him. Then take the handkerchief and hide it ; then go back to where you came from and say to him, "Go find it and bring," and he will go in and find it, as the perfume gives him the scent. After he finds this a few times, put the handkerchief under a can and send him for it. He will scent it and will overturn the can and bring the handkerchief to you. Later, teach him to get up in a chair and, while you say "Charge," or lie still, step back a few feet, having him lie perfectly quiet. Now, hide the handkerchief and tell him to go find it. To teach him to walk on his hind feet : Say "Sit up," and have a bit of meat and show it to him, and coax him forward a little at a time, till he makes a step or two towards you. Give him the meat and pet him and let him try again. When he has learned this, try to have him walk on his front feet. 40 To teach him to walk on his front feet : Lay a bit of meat on the lloor, three or four feet away, and hold him back from going to get it. Take hold of both hind feet and raise him up so that he can walk on his front feet and push him gently by his hind feet towards the meat. Go slowly, so as not to overbalance him, and he will try to help himself for the sake of the meat. As soon as he reaches the meat, pet him and let him have it. Increase the distance and say, "Up," which he will soon learn. To teach him to catch his tail : Tie a piece of red ribbon, not more than two or three inches long, on the end of his tail, and lift him around by it for a few times; then let him try for himself, and say to him, "Catch it," and he will go around like a whirlwind and enjoy it. When he will do this, take off the ribbon and say, "Catch your tail," and at the word, he will go around till you are tired of him and he will think it great fun. To teach him to walk a rope or pole : Take a board a foot wide, and place it between two chairs, so that it is about three feet from the floor ; be sure that it is firm, and in no danger of slipping off of the chairs. Lift him onto the board and walk back and forth with him until he is not afraid; then put him down and tell him to jump up on the chair, and show him a bit of meat. Lay it on the board where he can see it, and tell him to go and get it. He will be so anxious for the meat that he will walk out on the board and he can soon be coaxed over it easily. When he is perfectly at ease on the board, take one a little narrower and keep reducing the width until he can walk on one an inch wide. Now, you are ready for the rope or pole. When he can walk the rope easily, raise the rope a little at a time, until it is as high as you want it from the floor, and if it is changed gradually, he will not seem to mind the increased distance from the floor. If it is any distance from the floor, build a little runway of boards, with little strips across them for him to walk up and down on. To show what kindness will do. in training animals, the picture of a retrieving wolf is here given. The wolf is a wild animal and is looked upon as dangerous. The cause of this is hunger and he will fight for something to eat every time. On the other hand, if treated kindly, as you would treat an}- other animal, the wolf can be taught to do almost anything— -to retrieve, pull a sleigh, or small wagon, or 41 many of the tricks a dog can do. But this can only be done by kind treatment, plenty of petting and by feeding him well. There are dogs and cats, too, that have mean dispositions, and are quarrelsome and always ready to fight. They will hold spite and call names as surely as human beings. A dog's memory is remarkable. He can be trained to do almost anything ; to carry valuables, run er- rands and guard property, while his devotion to his master and his fidelity make him worthy of the title of "Friend of man." Be good to your dog and he will repay you. Don't be cruel in training him. Never put a spiked collar on him nor step on his toes; do not pinch his ears, or you will make him sore ; don't tie him to a tree and leave him. Under my system all this is useless, and a dog can be trained in the parlor if you wish, or in the kennel with the other dogs. The earlier you commence on a young dog the better, and the easier it will be to train him. RETRIEVING WOLF. 42 GAME PROTECTION. Had the game laws that are being made now been made fifteen years ago there would not be the scarcity of game that is now found in most states. Some of the state laws are fine, but in the greater number of them there is no adequate protection afforded to the game, and the consequence is that it is killed for market and shipped from state to state, and whole localities are thus cleared of game in a few seasons. Spring shooting should be stopped, and not a gun fired until after the hatching season is over and the young birds large enough to take care of themselves in the field. Thousands of birds die each year, because parent birds are killed or maimed, and the laws cannot be made too stringent in this respect. So long as one man is at liberty to shoot and destroy a fine flock of birds, others will feel that they, too, might as well have the game as he, and it is hard on the man who wants game protection to see his neighbor come home with a big bag, while he has kept the law and Ftayed at home. A POT HUNTER. ]\Iarket hunters will shoot any bird, young or old, and most of the woodcocks put on the market are nothing but quail, doves, or even blackbirds. Quail cannot survive a severe winter, but die of exposure and star- vation. 7"his could be avoided by providing grain for them and in- 43 ducing the farmers to feed them. A few dozen birds purchased, if needful, by private subscription, and turned loose in each county, would keep the state well stocked with game. In the same way the migratory birds are slaughtered, while too young to take care of themselves, and all true sportsmen will help in every way the enforcement of the laws that will protect the game and at the same time increase the pleasure and excitement of hunting. HINTS ON SHOOTING. There are many things to learn in order to become a good shot. First of all, be sure to get a good gun and have it fitted to you by the dealer. Have the drop and stock best suited to you ; don't go according to what some one else uses. The best average drop of stock is two and three quarters inches; length of stock fourteen inches from front trigger pull. This will make a good fit with tight clothes on; with loose clothes use a rubber heel. The heel may also be used to make the stock a little longer if necessary. Nine men out of ten shoot off the muscle of the arm, either because the gun does not fit, the load is too heavy, or their clothes are too heavy or tight. A twelve gauge gun of about eight pounds weight is the best for field shooting. Always use smokeless powder and use chilled shot and a two and three-quarters inch shell. Let the right barrel be a modified choke that will make a good pattern at thirty yards, and have the left barrel full choke. This will be good for both field and trap. A choke bore gun will make a pat- tern of eighteen inches to a three-foot circle from twenty-five to forty- five yards. The finer, the shot the larger the circle. Never shoot a heavy load that kicks and makes the arm sore. If the gun kicks, it is either because there is too much powder in the load, or because the gun is not held properly, and so instead of hold- ing the gun firmly against the shoulder, the hunter is "shooting off the muscle." This is much more common than is imagined, as few who suffer with a sore arm after a days hunt care to confess that they did not know how to hold their guns correctly, but it is nevertheless true that many a hunter finds his right arm tender for days after a day's shooting. Often the stock of the gun is too long, and if there is any tendency 44 on the part of the gun to kick, a dealer in guns should at once be con- sulted and the fault located. For target shooting by amateurs, the best load is No. 7 to No. 'jV-i .shot with one and a quarter ounces of shot. Always load smokeless powder by grains. There are many kinds of powder loads and they >vili run from 2^4 to 38 grains. For a pigeon load, use No. 6 to No. 7 shot, as the amateur will not shoot as quickly as an expert, and the larger shot will give a better killing chance than the finer shot, at a long distance. Use the same judgment about the powder as for the above. TAKING A GUN APART. Have your dealer show you how to take your gun apart and put it together ; how to let the hammers down and how to cock it. I have been out hunting with many an amateur who did not know how to put his own gun together. Learn how to clean and oil your gun and always carry some good gun oil and a gun rod with you when going hunting. Always be careful of and with your gun. Do not go around a field with a loaded gun. Never get over a fence with the loads in your gun, nor carry it across your arm when doing so. When in the field or in company, keep your gun pointed well up to the sky while walking. To have success in the field with game, take plenty of time and move your gun along with the bird and pull as you move. Don't stop the gun or you will miss, as the bird keeps moving and so must you. Don't get in a hurry while shooting such birds as quail, snipe, woodcock and young chickens, as nine out of ten are killed under twenty yards. Keep a level head, use common sense and move the gun, then with a good retriever you will be sure of a fine day's sport. If you shoot right handed, extend the left hand well forward on 45 the gun barrel ; in case you are left handed, reverse, but in eithe«- case, grip the gun tightly with your hand, so that it will not move easily. To be a good shot, always follow what you shoot, be it to the right or left, up or down. If you are not careful you will stop your gun unconsciously, and then wonder why you did not kill your bird, while the very fact that you did not kill it is proof that you stopped your gun. Move your gun with the bird and you will make a dead shot every time. For a bird flying straight away, cover full. For birds of any kind that rise as they fly, raise at the same time you pull. • For birds flying low, follow low, and keep the gun moving as you pull. In all these cases hold the gun about six inches ahead of the bird and pull while moving the gun, so that the bird will fly into your load. In shooting, while sitting, always hold low on the bird, sj y a foot and a half. Many may think that this is holding too low on a bird, but the success of the shot is proof of its value. For a person who has had no experience, it will save time and money to get a target trap to practice with before wasting powder in STYLE OF HOLDING GUN TWENTY YEARS AGO. 46 the field. Set it firmly and stand close to it to * iin with, moving back gradually as you become able to hit the gets. Keep your gun moving with the target, and aim low, as the gun will lift at the moment of shooting. Twenty years ago the trap shooter held his gun below the elbow until the bird was on the wing. Some wonder- ful scores were made at this stj^e of shooting. STYLE OF HOLDING GUN AT PRESENT TIME. At the present day he holds his gun to his shoulder, ready for the "bird" to be thrown from the trap. If you have no knowledge at all of firearms, begin your practice with a rifle, size .22, which will be cheaper and easier to learn with. If you are near the water, take a board two feet long and six inches wide, and put a tin can in the center of it. Tie a rope thirty or forty feet long to the board and float the board on the water. Have some one draw it along the surface slowly while you stand some twenty or thirty feet away, and try to follow the object with your gun. When you think you can follow, shoot at the can ; even if you miss, the water will tell you just where you shot, and so you can make your allow- ance and see how fast you will have to move your gun to hit the can. When you can hit every time, have a can tossed up in the air six or eight feet at first and try to hit it. Have the can thrown up easily 47 and steadily and n 't by jerks, and aim low, but keep the gun moving. If you are not 3ar any water, tie a can to a long string and have it pulled along th.i ground, slowly at first, then faster and faster as you improve. Shoot at it sidewise, crosswise and every way you can think of to give you practice and accustom you to all kinds of shoot- ing. If you have little time for field work or are so situated that you have no opportunity to practice out of doors, try shooting on roller skates. This will try your nerve and teach you to have self-possession SHOOTING OFF ROLLER SKATES. 48 SHOOTING WHILE SEATED. and poise. If you have a long hall in your house or a good cellar, you can have all the practice you want at very little trouble or expense. By using a .22 rifle, with shot shells, you can practice anywhere in the house with perfect safety to the walls. The shell is cheap and scatters so much that it does no damage. By hanging a piece of heavy canvas, ten feet square, from a couple of screw eyes in the ceiling, two or three feet from the wall, so that the canvas will not swing back and hit the wall and letting it swing freely from the bottom, you can shoot thousands of shot cartridges 49 TEACHING A BOY TO SHOOT. 50 at it and not pierce it. The shot will roll off the loose canvas and fall harmlessly on the floor. Pin small paper targets on the canvas and you will have as fine a target as you want. But be careful not to hang the canvas near a door or window, unless it is kept locked from your side, and so avoid accidents. Stand fifteen or twenty feet away from the target, increasing the distance as much as possible as you grow proficient. When you can hit the bits of paper, hang a small can, a rubber ball, bits of coal, anything that can be hit, on a string, and let this swing from another screw eye in the ceiling, about three feet in front of the loose canvas. Now, you have a fine swinging target and one h:ird to hit. Practice all kiiids of fancy 'shots, over the head, crosswise, back to object with gun on shoulder and using a mirror, while skating back and forth, and many ethers. If children were trained from an early age to handle and care for firearms, there would be fewer accidents. It is ignorance and the novelty of it that makes people look in a gun "to see if it is loaded." If they were used to handling one they would never do such a senst- Icss thing. Begin to teach a child when he is seven years old. Give him a small air gun and show him how to hold and sight it and impress upon him that he cannot have it if he is at all careless with it. Never let him practice alone until he is old enough to have good judg- ment and discretion. Never let him play with it. Teach him that it is not a plaything, Init a weapon to be proud of if he can handle it well. Teach him to stand straight and shoot with both eyes open, from the first. ]Make him care for his own gun and keep it clean and well oiled. It is well to have the gun a little heavy at the start so that it will not kick and frighten him, as nothing spoils one's shooting like ner- vousness. Never leave the load in the gun, and never, never let it be pointed at any one. Give the child a simple target to begin with and let him stand not more than ten feet away so that he will hit it frequently; this will encourage him to try and hit every time. 51 A SEVEN-YEAR-OLD HUNTER. 52 As he advances in his work, give him swinging objects to practice on, cans tied on the end of a long fish pole and swung gently back and forth, bits of coal thrown in the air, and on a straight line about ten feet above the ground. This will give him fine practice for field shooting. REVOLVER SHOOTING. Revolver shooting is not hard to learn. Be sure to get a revolver that fits your hand and that does not pull too hard, or it will cause you to shoot high. Either load your own shells or have them loaded for you, so as to avoid as much as possible the recoil of your revolver. Too heavy a load will make the best gun "bounce." Practice holding the revolver in either hand, using the left more than the right. In this way you will be able to have a decided advantage over one able to use but one hand, and it will accustom you to quick and accurate work. Always stand erect and steady and keep both eyes open. The two illustrations represent the positions for holding the revolver before and at the moment of firing. Draw the revolver up on a line with the eye, with the arm moving easily but firmly, level the revolver with a little drop to the center and you will make a true shot. 53 SPANIEL. There are many different breeds of dogs that are used as pets or watchdogs. The spaniels, water, cocker and others are cheerful, friendly and obedient, good watchdogs and can be trained to make good retrievers by my system of training. They can also be taught to do all manner of tricks. • The terriers, large and small, can be easily trained, but it must be by kindness alone. Whip a terrier but once, and he will never forgive nor forget it. The collie is the farmer's dog par excellence, watchful, faithful, very intelligent and gentle as a kitten. It is natural for him to protect stock and he will soon learn to count whatever is committed to his care. He can be depended upon to "Go get c(nvs" and bring them home. Greyhounds are good coursing dogs. They are very swift and will pick up a jack rabbit on a dead run. They hunt by sight, but can be trained to retrieve by shooting rabbits in heavy cover and sending them in to bring them to you, and when so trained they prove to have good r.oses. 54 Mastiffs and great danes are smooth coated dogs, large and pow- erful. The St. Bernard is shaggy, but all three resemble one another in many respects. They are naturally pleasant and peaceable and arc fine watchdogs. They can be trained to be very savage, but this should be done by strangers rather than by members of the family. Put the dog to be trained in a shed and let the strange boy or boys pound on the walls with sticks or stones and call to him and later let them enter the shed and poke their sticks at him. This will make the most gentle animal furious, and he will soon lunge at his tormentors, growl and show his teeth. Be very sure to have both chain and staple very secure and strong, as the dog would not hesitate to spring at his tormentors. No tramp or robber will ever trouble the family where such a dog lives. Feed these dogs cooked meats and many raw eggs, to prevent indi- gestion. Avoid corn meal, much bread and gravy and food with flour in it, as they do not exercise enough to eat such heating foods. All of these breeds can be taught to do all manner of tricks and to retrieve by following my instructions. 55 CATS. Cats are great pets in many homes. This is right, for what is nicer than a well behaved, affectionate cat? They can be trained to do all manner of tricks by following the same rules I have given for training trick dogs, and many pleasant hours can be so spent in teaching them. If I ever go into the show business, I will have about one hundred cats of different breeds and teach them to do some wonderful tricks. CATS. To keep a cat sound and healthy, feed it milk and raw eggs, and this will also make a good mouser of it, as it will have to hunt for whatever meat it wants. Use an Erb collar on it, as you would on a dog and it will neither leave home nor fight, nor will it have any unnecessary sickness from the sweating of a dirty collar. Cats fight by biting and scratching, and a cat will not risk a second encounter with a cat protected by an Erb collar. 56 ^^} -^'^^t^^-^ t --=^ SQUIRRELS. Almost every one who has ever used a gun has gone out sometime in his life after squirrels. If the hunter goes out in June he will find the young fellows, but in the fall he will get fully grown ones, and have little trouble in finding them. All he will have to do will be to hunt for nut trees, hickory especially, and the squirrels will surely be there getting their winter supply of nuts and they will get the best ones too every time. They can be found near berry patches as well, for they are great berry eaters. The best time to kill the squirrels is early in the morning or late in the evening. Then they are doing their feeding. Through the middle of the day they stretch themselves out on a broad limb of a tree and go to sleep. Many a squirrel is killed while asleep, being found by the sun shining on his tail or the wind blowing it back and forth. A good squirrel dog is a great dog to have. He can trail the squirrel through the woods and to the tree he has gone up, and if properly broken, will bark for you to come as a signal that he has a squirrel 57 treed. He will keep barking or howling and so attract the squirrel's attention and give you a chance to approach the tree without the squirrel seeing you. Go as slowly as you can walk and keep about ten to twenty feet away, making very little noise. You will soon see the squirrel by watching the limbs move and so locate him ; he will move from side to side and will be easy to hit. To teach a dog to be a good squirrel dog, take him out about the first of May, while the squirrels are small, as then, you will find them playing about little trees or saplings, that a little boy can climb up and bend over. On these they learn to jump and climb before they under- take to be active on large trees. When you have found a squirrel, move along with your dog and show him where the squirrel is. The best thing to do is to climb the tree and shake the squirrel off; this is easy to do as the tree will be small. When he falls on the ground he will get up and run to another tree and your dog at first will only bark and not offer to touch the squirrel. After a few lessons in this way he will go out by himself and hunt in heavy cover and open woods and just as soon as he strikes a scent he wnll bark for you to come to him, as he will have the squirrel treed. With a good dog you will be able to get squirrels whenever you go out hunting. Without a dog they are hard to get. You can take almost any kind of a dog and make a good squirrel dog out of him if you teach him in this way. I always have my dogs retrieve them the same as they do birds or rabbits, as they think it more sport to hunt them if they know they will get the game in their mouths, as this is their pride and glory. 58 RABBITS. Rabbits can be found almost anywhere in the country and require no especial skill to kill. A good rabbit dog will keep one busy, and the beagle is easily the prime favorite for rabbit hunting. When a rabbit is started, he will dodge from one side to the other, and if you stop your gun off he will go. Always shoot low on a rabbit as on a bird. It is good practice to let a few shots escape you by simply holding on the rabbit without shooting and so test your ability to follow. Many will boast of a long shot, when if they had stepped the dis- tance it would surprise them to see how close they were to the rabbit. DUCKS AND GEESE. Ducks and geese are so wary that a great deal of judgment is re- quired to shoot them. Open shooting is impossible, and they can only be shot from blinds and over decoys. Blinds either on land or water, are built in various fashions, absolute concealment being the chief re- quirement. The best time to shoot them is when they are flying to and from their feeding grounds. 59 urmi CHESAPEAKE RETRIEVING A DEAD DUCK. CO DUCK. A good retriever is necessary to get the dead or wounded birds, and as the birds will weigh from two and a half to three pounds, a dog with a large and strong mouth is needed to be able to bring a bird without dragging it on the ground. Either a Chesapeake Bay dog or a water spaniel should be used, as the dog will be in and out of the w^ater constantly. 61 BRANT. The Chesapeake is the better dog, for he has a large mouth, is strong, has a heavy coat, is at home in the water, can push through drift, slough grass or deep mud and does not care how cold the water is. For large ducks use No. 4 to No. 6 shot, for teal and the small ducks use No. 7 to No. 8, for goose and brant from No. 2 to No. 3. In all of these use not less than an ounce and a quarter of shot. 62 JACK SNIPE. There is much excitement in snipe shooting. ' Jack snipe live in the open prairie swamp lands, and as there is little cover, the dog has no chance to point them. They do not lie close like the quail or woodcock, and have to be hunted with much judgment and discretion. Hunt them down wind and so get the advantage of a close quarter- ing shot, as they rise against the wind; then after a flight of twenty- five yards, they turn and go with the wind. on They live in wet places and bore for worms the same as the wood- cock do. Don't let your dog hunt, but stay "Heel" until ordered to "Go fetch dead." When you kill, stand still and after loading your gun, send your dog to retrieve the dead bird. There will be birds scattered about tliat may rise and give you several shots, that would be flushed wild should you follow the dog for your first bird. Snipe will not move as wildly for a dog as they do when a man flushes them, and a bird will often let a dog pass without moving, and so give you a chance to flush him after the dog has gone on to retrieve his dead bird. The best load for snipe is No. 9 shot. GOLDEN PLOVER. Golden plover travel in large flocks and follow the jack snipe on their northern flight. They live on the prairie, in plowed fields and burnt ground. They are of a golden color with black breasts. They feed early in the morning and late in the afternoon, taking flight about ten in the morning to the watering places and returning about four in the afternoon. Work your dog as for snipe, as when you shoot, it is fiock shooting and you are liable to knock down eight or ten of them. The minute the wounded birds strike the ground they will run fast and far, scat- tering in every direction. Here is where a good retriever is necessary, as he will overtake each bird and bring it to you. Keep sending him out as fast as he brings one in, until he cannot find any more. The flock will swing round in a circle after being shot at to look for the crippled birds, so stand still and wait and you will get a second chance at them. The best load for plover is No. 9 shot. QUAIL. Quails are known and hunted in all parts of the world. They are very game and will test the skill of any dog. They are found in all kinds of cover, preferring, however, the edges of fences and brush and the beds of dried ponds. 64 \ QUAIL. Noise has little effect on them, and they will often lie so close that yon can almost kick them up. Ninety-nine men out of a hundred do not want a dog that ranges more than a hundred yards, but quarters close and hunts in the most promising places. In the morning and evening the liirds will work out to the center 65 of corn fields and stubble, and then will hunt low places to settle on imtil the next feeding time. Never order the- dog to run in and flush the flock, but walk in and flush it yourself and then they will not be so wild. The best load for quail is No. 9 shot. Pheasants, or partridges, as they are commonly called, live in the thickest of the woods, so that it is hard to hunt or get them v/ithout 66 a good dog. They live on wild berries and wild grapes and are among the choicest of table birds. They lie very close in heavy cover and where a dog cannot hunt fast and are very hard to shoot on the wing, as they continually dodge among the trees. In hunting them, have your dog go slow and keep close to you. He will work best on ground scent. Teach him to hold his point and let you select your location before j'ou order him to flush. Train him to bark when the bird rises, and the curiosity of the bird will prove its destruction. Instead of trying to escape, the bird will settle on an adjacent tree to find the meaning of the strange noise, and if there is danger of missing a wing shot, the bird can be shot sitting. After the bird is killed, he is very hard to find, as in color he re- sembles the leaves in the fall, and a good retriever is necessary if the birds are to be found. To teach a dog to bark, tie a piece of red cloth on a long string and then throw it over a limb of a tree in such a manner that it can be jerked up and down. As it flutters among the leaves hiss the dog on to bark, and teach him to bark every time it moves. The best load for pheasants is No. 9 shot. WOODCOCK. The woodcock is one of the hardest game birds to hunt. He weighs from four to six and a half ounces, is of a golden color, with a large head and an ear that you could stick a lead pencil into. He is a sharp fellow, knows when you are after him, and is very tricky. He lives in timber swamps and about springy places the year around. When in seaich of food the woodcock will go along in wet places and turn the right side of his head to the ground and listen to any noise which he may hear from under the surface of the ground. When he locates it he turns his head to the side again to make sure, and tlien puts the point of his two and a half inch bill on the ground and works it, making a sound like boring a hole in a board. When he gets started, he holds his bill in the ground, drawing his body close, then flutters his wings, which helps him to drive his bill down. He stands still a minute, and then proceeds to pull out a worm; this is the com- mon fish worm and is his main food. A good way to hunt w^oodcock is to hang a couple of bells on your dog's neck and send him in after the birds ; as long as you hear the bells you will know he has found nothing, but when the bells stop, be sure the dog is on the point. Woodcock shooting is all snap, that is, hit or miss shooting, and nine times out of ten you cannot tell whether you have hit or not, the cover is so thick. Here is where a nice retriever comes handy, to find the dead birds and retrieve them from all kinds of brush, grass and heavy cover, and bring them to you. When you shoot, order your dog to "Go hunt dead"; if you killed, he will bring it sure. If you don't kill, just keep a sharp lookout behind you and you will not fail to see the same bird again, as one of his pet tricks is to double back to the place he was in when shot at. This deceives the amateur, for few would think of looking for him in the same place the second time, but the experienced woodcock hunter is aware of the bird's tricks and will wait and try for him again. The best load for woodcock is No. 9 or No. 10 shot. PRAIRIE CHICKEN. The prairie chicken is a bird that has been hunted until in many states it is nearly exterminated. While young the birds are very easy to kill, as they don't seem to have much sense of danger. They are found in the short stubble or grass and can be found very easily, as their scent is so strong that a dog can readily scent them. When they get up after being shot at, they don't fly far and if you don't find them. 69 go away and wait awhile and they will soon come back and hunt their mother. If you have killed her, it is a sure thing you will get the whole flock, as they haven't sense enough to take care of themselves. They will whistle for one another when lost, and I have killed many a one by calling it up to me while lying down in the grass. During this time, that is, from August i to October i, you can kick them up and with a good dog to point, have all open shooting. But after November i, look out. The tables are lurned ard they will be found in the corn and will not lay for the dog very well. They v/ill fly a mile at a time and none but the expert hunter can hope to have any luck in killing them. They go in large flocks and have to be hunted on the quiet and always down wind. When two men are hunt- ing, they must hunt by signs with the hands to go either to the right or left, for speak one loud word and goodby hunter. With the wind and a little sunshine they can be killed, but a good dog is needed that is well trained and under good command to "stay heel," and not go out till ordered to get the dead and retrieve it. For pheasant, woodcock, quail, snipe and young prairie chickens use No. 9 shot, if the shooting is in the thick brush or corn, as it must be quick shooting in the close cover and the small shot will make a big circle and will not tear the birds to pieces as the larger shot under these conditions would. In the open, where there will be more time for a shot and consequently a longer range, use No. 7 or No. 8. 70 WILD TURKEYS. A flock of wild turkeys is a great sight. They are easy birds to trap and kill. They can be baited into any trap with corn, and can be shot at night on their roosts. They can be called with a turkey caller right to the hunter, and if they get into a trap, have not sense enough to get out. The best load for turkeys is No. 2 to No. 3 shot. In going out for turkeys before the snow is on the ground, a good dog will stand a turkey the same as he will a quail and will trail him for miles. When the dog goes slowly and cautiously and makes fre- quent points, it shows that the turkeys are close. Then go very quietly and avoid all dry twigs, for a turkey seems to know what a gun is. When he discovers you, he will start off cackling to warn the rest of the flock. 71 POINT WORK. If your dog is trained to obey the motions of the hand, he will scatter the flock in all directions and make them light on the trees by barking at them. i ?! ! \ When the snow is on the ground, track them, and the length of the tracks will determine whether the birds are going fast or slow. If slow, the tracks will be from six inches to a foot apart, showing that the birds are loafing or feeding. But when the tracks are from eighteen to thirty inches apart it is a sign that the birds are frightened or are on a long tramp from one locality to another. In this case do not follow the tracks, but circle out a quarter to a half a mile and cross their tracks and then make another circle according to the direction in which they are then going. By confusing them in this way they will lessen their speed and be easily overtaken. When close to them, send the dog, and he will scatter them by barking; then call them to you l:)y using a turkey caller and they will be readily killed. GROUP OF GAME BIRDS. This group of birds represents pheasants, quail, prairie chickens and grouse, all of which are well known in the middle and western states, and also in most of the eastern states. A FEW TRAINING DEVICE TESTIMONIALS. (American Field, Chicago, III., Oct. 15, 1903.) Fred Erb, Jr., has covered a lot of territory this fall giving exhibi- tions* of how to train a dog to retrieve from land and water with the use of his devices, which are very simple, and, in the hands of a humane person, effective. Kindness toward dumb animals, which cannot under- stand the meaning of words, is the first requisite in educating them. A patient, kindly disposed person can teach a dog to do' most anything, where a person of opposite temperament would fail. Grass Valley, Dec. 8, 1903. Mr. Erb, Jr. Some time ago I got one of your training devices, and I tell you it is all O. K. I broke three dogs, and as soon as I get some more broke I will send you a photo of some of them ; they are all pointers. I read in the American Field that you taught shooting. Do you have a book on shooting, or does a man have to come where you are? If you could give instructions on shooting, I would like to know your price by mail. Or what is a good book to learn from? Now, I take you as a true friend. I am just beginning to shoot a little; but it doesn't take me long to get a dog to retrieve. That is the best of all things I ever heard of. Whatever instructions you give me I am willing to pay for. Tell me, if you can, how to make a dog drop to shot-wing. I want your advice and nobody else's, as I think you are the king of them all, on dog work especially. Now write and tell me immediately, as I want to know at the ear- liest date. I remain. Yours truly, Peter Wetteran. (Box 752.) Grass Valley, Nevada Co., California. 74 April 2, 1903. Mr. Fred Erb, Jr., LaFayettc, hid. My Dear Fred :— Now that our show is over I feel as though we should not let the opportunity go by of offering you, in behalf of the Bench Show Committee of the Chicago Kennel Club, our sincere thanks for the pleasure had in witnessing the exhibitions which you gave us at our Dog Show on March 25, 26, 27, 28, at the First Regiment Arm- ory, i6th street and Michigan avenue, Chicago. The work you do is certainly very interesting and demonstrates what can be done by kindness with a dog. The spectators at our show were very much pleased with your exhibition, and each and all compli- mented us on having had the opportunity of seeing same. We sincerely trust that you will be successful in working up a nice business in that line, for you certainly are deserving of it. At any time we can in any way assist you we will be very glad indeed to do it. Thanking you again for your kindness and renewal of old friendship between the writer and yourself, I beg to remain. Yours very truly, H. J. Cassady. Sec'y Chicago Kennel Club. {The Enquirer, Cincinnati, O., Nov. 4, 1S98 at the Cincinnati Club Grounds.) One of the features of the day's sport was the work of the three retrieving dogs— Deuce, Jack and Pen. The dogs are wonders, and their work was applauded as much as that of the shooters. (From the Sportsman, St. Louis, Mo., March 7, I903-) Fred Erb, Jr., came to St. Louis last Saturday for the purpose of giving an exhibition at the Sportsman office of his method of making dogs retrieve, that is, bring game in after same is killed, or in fact, fetch anything that a dog can pick up and carry. Mr. Erb at one time was well known in trap shooting circles in St. Louis. Though he gave up the shooting game some twenty years ago, there are yet many of the older shooters who shot with him livnig here, and they came to see him and renew their old acquaintance ; same time were much interested in what he had to show them in the way of a device for training dogs. 75 The club room of the Sportsman was filled to overflowing, and as parties came at different times of the day, there were several exhibi- tions given during the day. Mr. Erb had two dogs, one partly trained and the other just being initiated. He explained that he had trained over i,6oo dogs and had never spoiled one, as he does not use torturing methods and cow the dog. He starts in by getting acquainted with the dog and gaining his con- fidence, then continues by being kind all through his succeeding les- sons. Over a hundred people, including some ladies, called during the day. All marveled at the control he had over the dogs, one being a ten months pointer which picked up a dead bird nicely, being his first effort. During the past seventeen years Mr. Erb has lived at LaFay- ette, Ind., where he has confined himself to breaking shooting dogs. So successful have been his methods that one of the best known game shots, and men of leisure, in the state of Wisconsin, offered him $500 for his system of training. This Mr. Erb refused, and though said party was a visitor at Mr. Erb's home, he never caught on, as the train- ing was done under cover. Since Mr. Erb has patented his devices he has sold this gentlemen a set and now he says he would not be without same for $1,000 as he will hereafter train his own dogs. Mr. Erb will willingly give these exhibitions at points not too remote from his home, and when once understood every dog owner will readily see that it will be a pleasure to raise and train his own dog. Mr. Erb has attended many large tournaments and the way his dogs brought in the dead and wounded birds was favorably commented upon by agents of the Humane Society. These devices are advertised in our business columns. (American Field, Feb. 7, 1903, Chicago, III.) An exhibition of teaching a dog to retrieve was given in the Amer- ican Field's club room last week by Fred Erb, of LaFayette, Ind., by the use of his devices advertised in our business columns, wherein he challenges anyone to equal his method to train a dog to retrieve from land or water. Kindness is the first requisite. Mr. Erb had two dogs, one fully trained, the other green. He did not use force. He had four simple devices — that completed his set — and the dogs took kindly to his training. He first made the dog understand that his command must be obeyed by adjusting a slight choke device; then he produced a cord-wound stick, mounted on crosstrees, and after a few attempts the dog picked it up and brought it to him ; then he threw a small filled sack to a distance, and the dog soon understood that it was to be retrieved; then he produced a dead pigeon — the fourth article — threw it a distance, and the dog retrieved it nicely. The untrained dog was tractable in a short time. A dozen sportsmen were in the office at the time and all marveled at the quickness of perception of the dogs of the duties required of them. Mr. Erb's dogs have been seen at many trap shoots, and it has been the subject of comment how perfectly the dogs were trained to retrieve. The training in each instance was accomplished by the use of the four devices advertised in our business columns. Mr. Erb stands ready to give an exhibition within any reas- onable distance of his home of how to train a dog to retrieve, if a num- ber of sportsmen will assemble to witness the work. {American Field, Nov. 14, 1903, Chicago, III.) I am a regular subscriber to the American Field and I consider it the best paper of its kind I ever saw. I am a great lover of the gun and dog, but at one time I thought I should never learn to shoot at the trap or in the field, nor did I think I could ever train a dog, but I am now pleased to say that I am on the right road to do both. About two months ago I met Fred Erb, of this city, and I employed him to teach me how to shoot. His instructions were so plain and simple that I "caught on" very quickly, and am now shooting both in the field and at the trap and doing pretty good work. I also own four dogs, two old ones and two puppies, which I am training under Mr. Erb's in- structions, and I am meeting with very good success. If a young man ha? a natural love for gun and dog and wants to become a shooter he can do so v/ithout spending four or five years learning. First, let him subscribe for the American Field and read it every week from the front to the back page ; then get some one who is competent to teach him how to handle a gun and where to hold on a bird in order to kill it and he will be surprised to see how easy it is to become a very good shot. B. W. Price. LaFayette, Ind. FRED. ERB, JR., WINNER OF AMERICAN FIELD CUP. 78 SOME OF THE AUTHOR'S FAMOUS SCORES. ERB-BOGARDUS. (American Field, March 20, 1880.) This match, which was for a purse of $200, was shot at St. Joseph, Mo., Thursday, March 11, 1880. The conditions of the match were: To shoot at 100 pigeons each, one and one-quarter ounce of shot, Hurliiigliam rules, Erb to stand at twenty-eight and Bogardus at thirty yards. Bogardus used a twelve-gauge, ten-pound choke bore gun, by Scott & Son, five drams orange lightning No. 7 powder. No. 9 shot in his fir'^t and No. 7 shot in his second barrel. Erb used a gun of similar weight, made by James Purdey & Sons. His shells were loaded v.ith four and one-half drams Hazard powder (sea-shooting, ducking size), and Chicago No. six (6) shot in both his first and second barrel. That Mr. Erb, v/ho is only nineteen years old, should have beaten the acknowledged champion by ten birds will no doubt be a surprise to many. The following is the official score of the match : Captain A. H. Bogardus. Thirty yards : — 11011 11111 1011111101 11111 11111 11101 11111 1111011001 10110 01011 10101 11111 0111111111 00111 11111 11101 1111 1—83. Fred Erb, Jr. Twenty-eight yards: — 11111 11111 1110101111 11011 11111 11111 11111 1011111111 11111 11111 01110 11111 1111111011 11111 11111 11111 1111 1—93. Weather, cold and windy; the wind blowing from the right to the left across the traps. Time of shoot, three hours, five minutes. Paul Francke, referee. B. F, Buzard, scorer. 79 ERB-MITCHELL. (American Field, June 4, 188 1.) St. Louis, Mo. Editor Chicago Field. Saturday, May 28, the match between Fred Erb, Jr., of St. Joseph, Mo., and Capt. W. T. Mitchell, of Richmond, Va., was shot at the Compton Park Base Ball Grounds, St. Louis, Mo. The stakes were $200, and the match was at 100 wild pigeons, five ground traps, five yards apart, thirty yards rise, use of both barrels, English rules. Captain West acted as judge for Captain Mitchell, Mr. G. Hass- further in a similar capacity for Mr. Erb, and Mr. Babcock filled the position of referee. The birds were, contrary to anticipation, a very tame lot, and made but feeble efforts at flying. At the conclusion of the first half hundred birds the contestants were at evens, having killed forty-five each. From that time on Erb improved, while Mitchell fell off until he was hopelessly in the rear. The score : Erb The Score 110 11 112 11— 91 Mitchell . .21111 10 111—9 112 1111 2— 8 2 111 11112— 9 112 11 1110 1 — 9 2 112 1 2 111 1-1(1 2 1111 1112 1 — 10 1 10 12 1 1 1 1 1— S 12 111 2 110 1 — 91 11112 2 1110— 9 12 12 1 10 11 1— 91 2 2 1 2 111 2— 8 12 12 1 2 111 1—101 10 2 1 1 2 — ,") 1112 2 2 112 0— 9 110 2 1 2 12 1-8 1112 1 1111 2—10 1 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 11— 9 rotal 931 Total S.") ERB-BENNETT. (American Field, Sept. 2, 18S2.) Cameron, Mo. Editor American Field. August 8, at Chillicothe, Mo., Mr. Fred Erb, Jr., of St. Joseph, Mo., and Mr. John Bennett, of Linneus, Mo., shot a match at fifty pair of double birds each, trap and handle for each other, for $200 a side. The shooting was very fine, especially on the part of Mr. Erb, who won easily. The following are the scores : Erb -84 .11 10 11 10 11 11 11 01 10 10 11 11 10 11 11 11 10 11 10 01 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 10 01 10 11 10 01 11 11 11 10 11 10 80 Bennett 11 11 11 11 01 11 10 10 00 11 10 01 10 01 11 11 01 01 11 11 11 01 11 11 10 10 00 01 01 10 11 10 11 11 10 10 11 11 00 01 10 10 00 10 11 00 11 01 11 11 —07 WONDERFUL EXHIBITION. (American Field, July ii, 1885.) LaFayette, Iiid.— Mr. Fred Erb, Jr., shot an exhibition here on June 29 with rifle and shotgun for the Ancient Order of Hibernians at the LaFayette Fair Grounds, which was witnessed by over 10,000 people. Mr. Erb was not in the best of condition to shoot, owing to the acci- dent which befell him on April 7, in which he broke his right wrist while giving an exhil)ition on roller skates. Since then he was unable to use the gun. Mr. Erb gave us some of his work with a Colt's light- ning rifle and broke 48 balls out of 50 thrown in the air, hitting all kinds of small coins and doing all kinds of fancy shooting that could l)c done with a rifle. Mr. Erb then stepped up to the score to break 96 clay pigeons out of 100, in which he broke 100 straight with a Colt's twelve bore, weighing seven and one-half pounds. I\Ir. Erb is one of the quickest shots that ever went to a trap. He used only one barrel, 18 yards rise, 3 angles. Will Berry was scorer, and Dr. Cole- man referee. John McGuire. ERB-BOGARDUS. (American Field, Chicago, III., Jan. 14, 1888.) LaFayette, Ind. Editor American Field. The Erb-Bogardus match, so long talked of, took place here Jan. 4, at I o'clock p. m. The shooting was at 100 live birds each, Hurling- ham rules, for $250 a side. Capt. Bogardus used a twelve-bore Scott 6 Sons gun weighing seven pounds fourteen ounces, and shot four drams of Wood powder in the right barrel and four drams of black powder in the left barrel, using No. 7 and No. 8 shot. Mr. Erb used a Lefever twelve-bore weighing seven pounds fourteen ounces, loaded with y/2 drams of King's Quick Shot powder in both barrels and No. 7 shot. The weather was cloudy, with the wind blowing across the traps. A stronger lot of birds could not have been had, as every bird 81 went when the trap was sprung. There was a large crowd in attend- ance and a good many visitors. There was very little betting. Captain Bogardus lost seven birds dead out of bounds and retired after shooting at 93 birds. Mr. Erb lost six dead out of bounds, which would liave given him 99 out of 100, and the nineteenth bird he shot at flew away hard hit. He killed his last 64 straight, whereat Captain Bo- gardus gave Mr. Erb the credit of making the best run ever made by any man in the w^orld. Captain Bogardus says he is the quickest shot he ever saw. Captain Bogardus used his second barrel 32 times, while Mr. Erb used his second barrel 17 times. The match lasted two hours and eleven minutes. Mr. Ed. Voris, of Crawfordsville, acted as referee. Mr. Wesley E. Wells, president of the LaFayette Gun Oub, and Albert Miller, president of the Crawfordsville Gun Club, acted as judges. Dr. Smith and Thurst Martin acted as scorers. The score was called at ever}' ten birds bhot at. The traps were drawn by dice. Captain Bogardus pulled for Mr. Erb and Mr. Erb pulled for Captain Bogardus. Ov.ing to the sad news that Captain Bogardus received, on arriving at the St. Nicholas Hotel, of the death of his beloved wife, the match was withdrawn that was to take place at the Acme feathered targets on January 5. Captain Bogardus made many friends while in La- Fayette. Following are the scores : Capt. A. H. Bogardus — - 1111101011—8 1011011111—8 110 10 1111—7 10 11 1110 1 — 7 1111100110—7 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1—10 1— 9 1—10 1— 9 1 1 Ow Captain Bogardus retired after shooting at 93 birds, of which he killed T]. Fred Erb, Jr. Ill 1 1 1 1 0— 9 1—10 111 1 1 1 1 1—10 1—10 111 1 1— 7 1—10 Oil 1 1 1 — 7 1—10 111 1 1 1 1 1—10 1—10—93 ERB AGAINST BIRDS. {American Field, April 7, 1888.) LaFayette, Ind. Editor American Field. The dates of Mr. Fred Erb's shoot were changed from April I, 2, 3, 4 and 5 to March 26, 27 and 28. Mr. Erb shot at 200 82 targets on each of the first two days and lOO on the third day. The undersigned backed Erb to break 475 out of a possible 500. His score was a greater surprise to all than was expected, as part of the time there was a drizzling rain falling. He used his twelve-bore Lefever gun on the first 200 targets, sixteen yards rise, and his new ten-bore Lefever on the last 300 targets, standing eighteen yards from the traps. He thinks his ten-bore gun is a "daisy," which cannot be spoken of too highly. The Standard targets, of Cleveland, were also used, and they are fine targets to shoot at, as they break up very fine. I think 489 out of 500 very good. Three traps. National rules, were the con- ditions. Following is the score: ^londay. March 20. Fred Eib, Jr. 11111111111111111111 11111 1111111111 1111111111 11111 1111111111 1111111111 11111 1111111111 1111111111 1111 1—100 1111111111 1111111111 11110 1111111111 11111110 11 11111 1110 111111 10 111110 11 11111 " 1111111111 1111111111 11111— 9G Tuesday, March 27. Fred Erb, Jr. 1111111111 1111111111 11110 1111111111 111111110 1 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 1111— 97 1011111111 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll— 99 Wednesday, March 28. Fred Erb, Jr. 1111111111 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll 1111110 11 1111111111 lllll 1111111111 1111111111 lllll— 98 ERB-GRAHAM. (American Field, May 5, 1S88, at Louisville, Ky.) The Monaco rules governed throughout, except there was no wire fence to guard the boundary. This difference, however, with the ex- tremely close boundary, made the shooting the hardest ever done, and score made under the conditions w^as a magnificent one. It was ex- actly seventeen yards and twenty-one inches from the two outside traps to the line. The boundary line was a circle, and all birds to count as dead had to fall to the ground and be gathered within the 83 boundary. If a bird crossed the line at all, in the air or on the ground, before it had been gathered in, it was counted as lost. Mr. G. G. Berry was chosen as trap-puller, Mr. J. M. Barbour referee, and E. A. Anthony official scorer. In addition to these Mr. J. C. Levi acted as scorer for Graham and Mr. A. C. Courtney for Erb. The contestants were to shoot alternately at one bird, each using both barrels if required. Erb used a seven and one-half pound Lefever and Graham the same weight Lang gun. Each used three drams of powder and one and one-eighth ounces of shot. Following is the score in detail for the first match : Erb 0101111011 1111010111 11111 0111111010 1111111111 10111 1110110100 1101100111 11011 1011111011 1111001111 1011 1—78 Graham ..0 111111101 1011111111 01001 1101110011 1111101111 0101 11110 1111 1011010101 11111 1110111111 1110 111101 1011 0— 7G ERB-GRAHAM. (American Field, May 12, 1888.) LaFayette, Ind. Editor American Field. I send you the score of the match between Wni. Graham, champion of England, and Fred Erb, Jr., of LaFayette, Ind., at Connersville, Ind., on May 2, at 25 pigeons each, Hurlingham rules. Graham, at 29 yards, shot a Lang gun, and Schultz powder. Erb, Jr., at 31 yards, shot a Lefever gun. Both barrels were used. Following is the score: Graham 1111101111 1111101111 0111 1—22 Erb 1111111111 1111111111 1011 1—24 The above race was an exhibition merely. The third race was to have been shot at Connersville, but could not be on account of the scarcity of birds. But the third race will be shot in some city in the United States as soon as arrangements can be made for good birds. ERB-LeCOMPT. (American Field, Chicago, III, Dec, 19, 1903.) The Indianapolis Gun Club has issued programs for an all-day shoot New Year's Day, at which time the third contest for the English Hotel Cup will occur. On December 5, C. O. LeCompt contested with 84 Fred Erb, Jr., for the cup and was defeated by a score of 87 to 70. Mr. Erb was challenged immediately by Mr. Ed. Voris, of Crawfordsville, and this event will come off on New Year's Day The club has ar- ranged some interesting features in connection with the shoot and a large attendance is expected. J. W. Bell, Sec'y. Indianapolis, Ind. ERB-VORIS. (American Field, Chicago, III., Jan. 9, 1904.) In the contest at Indianapolis on New Year's Day between Fred Erb, of LaFayette, Ind., and Ed. Voris, of Crawfordsville, Ind., for the English Hotel Cup, Erb won by one target. The scores were : Erb 85, Voris 84. James Michaels, of Indianapolis, Ind., has challenged Erb to shoot him a match for the cup, but the date for the race has not yet been announced. 85 SKETCH OF AUTHOR'S LIFE. (From LaFayette, Ind., Herald, 1895.) The Herald takes pleasure in presenting to its many readers today a brief outline of the career of Fred Erb, Jr., LaFayette's champion shot. Fred Erb, Jr., was born 41 years ago in this city, in a modest frame, one-story dwelling on Oregon street, on the i6th day of August, 1857. He was given a fair education in the public schools of this city. Young Erb was a born shot, having inherited his talent from his father, who also in his day was a king at the traps, and was the first man ever to shoot a live pigeon match in this country, defeating William King, of London, England, for the world's championship and $1,000 a side. Fred Erb, Sr., also shot a great match with Jack Taylor, of New Jer- sey, for $2,500 a side, but was defeated in his match. This great event was shot off at the old Opp homestead many years ago. Old timers will still remember this great event, as John Opp at the time made a big barbecue out of the event and over 5,000 persons witnessed the great match. Fred Erb, Jr., at the age of eight was sent to Lexington, Ky., by his father as a rider of- running horses, Fred keeping this up until the age of 18. During his career as a jockey he rode the great winners of those days, known to turf fame as Rambler, Prairie Boy, Silver Tail, Bull of the Woods, Gypsie and other celebrated blue grass stock. At the age of 12 years his shooting qualities first came into publicity, and while riding the circuit of running horses he was often backed by his father in live pigeon matches, in which he scored signal victories at the trap. Erb's great achievement that brought him into national fame was his challenge to Captain Bogardus, who was then the all around champion of the world. This match came off in March, 1880, at St. Joseph, Mo., Erb killing 93 to Bogardus' 83 birds. At St. Louis, in January, 1881, Erb in a contest with a number of celebrated shots killed 25 straight birds, winning $800. Several years ago Erb retired from tlie professional arena to engage 86 in dog training, having been solicited to do so by many of the dog fanciers of the country. However, the old fever returned and last winter Mr. Erb again took up the trusty and will prepare to go for the championship of the world again. Mr. Erb opened his career last February, when he won the Grand Hotel Trophy, defeating George Beck, of Indianapolis, also defeating Elmer Neal in this city last April. In connection with his work at the trap the same interest will be given his kennel, which now contains - some of the most blooded stock in the country. Erb has a national reputation as a successful trainer. He has trained dogs for all the celebrated sports in the country. Erb's training methods are ideas strictly his own. The dogs are first taught to retrieve, and then after becoming used to the call of the whistle are given actual experience in the field. A visit to his kennel, in the northwest corner of the Snoddy addition, will at any time repay any person who is an admirer of blooded dog stock. The Herald is glad to see Erb back again to battle for the championship honors of the trap, and will not only watch his future career with interest as he battles for LaFayette's credit to again grasp the championship trophy, but will take equal pleasure in heralding forth the great deeds that he will accomplish, as the targets dart from the unknown angles of the traps and in the greater flights of the difficult left quarters of the tough old pigeons. Mr. Erb defeated Mr. C. W. Budd easily for the American Field Cup at Davenport, Iowa, several years ago. Mr. Erb has made some wonderful scores and we doubt if there is a man living that can equal him with shotgun and rifle, or handling a dog for field shooting and retrieving. (American Field, January 7, 1899. At the Big Shoot, at Indianapolis, Ind., December 19 to 23, 1893.) Mr. Fred Erb, Jr., was on hand with three dogs, two English and one Irish setter, to do the retrieving. It is needless to say it was very satisfactorily done. The Irish setter had a great race with one of Jack Fanning's birds. The bird was hard hit, but when the dog went 10 retrieve it, it flew around and around in the boundary until finally the dog caught it on the wing. It seemed as if the bird must have flown a good quarter of a mile, but at that it did not cross the boundary line. 87 (Sporting Life, Philadelphia, Fa., May 20, 1899.) Fred Erb, of LaFayette, Ind., handled the dogs in the live-bird i shooting. Fred is. an old timer on the traps and has shot some great matches in his day, some of them being imnsiially exciting. . i {The Peoria Herald, May 9, 1899.) | Happy Fred Erb is here again this year with his trained dogs— a i sight well worth seeing. ]\Iike Hurley, the well known base ball tun- \ pirc and correspondent of Sporting Nezvs, will referee all live-bird I events. 1 (American Field, Chicago, 111., at Cincinnati, Ohio, Nov. 3 to 4.) i Before closing this report it is but justice to speak of the retriev- j ing. It was all done by three dogs (two setters and one pointer) from \ Fred Erb, Jr.'s kennels, of LaFayette, Ind. The dogs did their work \ in a quick, snappy way that frequently won the applause of the spec- ' tators. During their work for two days they made no mistakes, nor allowed a bird to escape them. i (Nashville Paper.) \ One of the most attractive features of the tournament has been the \ retrieving done by the dogs trained by Fred Erb, Jr., of LaFayette, | Ind. The faultless work of these dogs has been a source of pleasure : to every person who attended the shoot, the marksmen included. Mr. i Erb brought seven dogs with him and has opportunity to sell several of ] them since he came, but as they are dogs that he is training for other ; parties, he has been compelled to refuse all offers. Mr. Erb is a trainer j of gentlemen's shooting dogs, and is also a breeder of fine pointers ; and setters. His best advertisement is the work done by the dogs he j trains. \ (Indianapolis Nezvs, Dee. 22, 1898.) ■ j Fred Erb, of LaFayette, was doing the retrieving today with his ' dogs. Erb was formerly a crack shot, but in the last few years has \ devoted his time to training dogs for the field. He has been in big | demand this fall to furnish retrievers for live-bird shoots, and has j broken in a number of good dogs. He wull have charge of the retriev- j ing in the big handicap tomorrow. j 88 i (Aincncan Field, Dec, 1903.) Last week I spent a couple of days with Fred Erb, Jr., of LaFay- ette, and had a most delightful time. We found plenty of birds, owing to Mr. Erb's habit of stocking the fields every spring with fresh quails. We did not kill many, but I enjoyed watching the puppies which are now in training work on them. Mr. Erb has one puppy less than four months old that would find and point birds and then retrieve them it killed. We shot a few pigeons one morning and I had a lot of fun watching the younger ones retrieve. While I was there some twelve orders arrived for the training device, five one morning before break- fast and all the orders mentioned the American Field as the paper in which the advertisement was seen. Further, Mr. Erb told me that he had received ten times as many orders through his advertisemeni in the American Field than all of the other papers combined. The training device is by far the surest method I know of making a forced retriever now on the market and at the same time it is easier on the ^1^^ John M. Lilly. Indianapolis, Ind. (At the Illinois State Tournament, 1S98 and 1899.) T^Ir. Fred Erb, Jr., the great handler of gentlemen's shooting dogs, did the retrieving of all the pigeons. His work caused no delays of any kind. (American Field, Chicago, III, Aug 5, 1899-) We have always considered that retrieving is an important factor to a successful dav's shooting and consequently it is quite as essential that a pointer or setter should be taught to retrieve as to back or drop to shot or to wing. Field trials have made the pointers and setters what they are today, for they have not only stimulated breeders to produce superior animals, but they have developed a higher and more intelli- gent standard of training. Why not add to this standard the art of retrieving? What state field trial will be the first to require it? (American Field, Oct. 10, 1903, Chicago, III.) Fred Erb, of LaFayette, Ind., was at the tournament of the In- dianapolis Gmi Club with a string of his retrievers and gave to the 89 sportsmen present a fine exhibition of retrieving, demonstrating beyond all question his ability to make a good retriever in a short time out of any bird dog which has sense enough to come in to him when called. {American Field, November 28, 1903.) I inclose money order for registering two puppies in the F. D. S. B. I refuse to let anyone breed a bitch to my Keystone unless she is registered, and unless he will try to have the puppies registered. My dog Rodstone has been in charge of Fred Erb, Jr., of LaFayette, Ind., for the last eight months, and I have just got him home. He is a magnificent dog in the field, and I only had him in ]\Ir. Erb's hands to make a retriever of him. George Denny. Lexington, Ky. {American Field, August 8, iSgi.) A VISIT TO MR. FRED ERB, JR.'S KENNELS. Mulberry^ Ind. Editor American Field: It is not very well known among the sportsmen of the country that we have here in Indiana a man who is capable of training setters and pointers for high-class field work for private shooting as well as for field trial competition. However, most of his training, up to the present, has been for eastern gentle- men who only have their dogs trained for their private shooting; so he has not had the opportunity to run any of his dogs in the trials, but I understand he will have several entries in the trials this season. The gentleman referred to is no one less than the noted trap shot, Mr. Fred Erb, Jr., of La Fayette, Ind. I visited him some time ago and had the pleasure of taking a day's snipe shoot with him as well as to see his dogs work on snipe, which I assure you was a pleasure to me. He had at that time some fourteen dogs in training, and all looking well and working in good shape. He took out with him on our day's hunt two high-bred English setters that he has in training for a gentleman in Wisconsin. I don't know his name, but can say that he has a brace of good ones; and when Mr. Erb turns them over to him he can justly be proud of owning a brace of as well broken setters as any man can boast of, 90 Mr. Erb is located in one of the best all-round game sections of the west ; that is, for training dogs on all kinds of game. In the spring, he has the snipe within a few miles of his kennel. After he has worked his dogs through on snipe, he has abundance of woodcock within a half hour's drive of his home, and he tells me that there's where he gets the dogs down to business and puts that finishing touch on them that all sportsmen like, and that is obedience. After educating them thoroughly on woodcock, when the chicken season opens, he takes them from the bog and mire all hardened and fit for a hard day's work upon the broad stubble-fields of Benton county, where he has under his own control 25,000 acres of as fine chicken ground as the sun shines upon, and there he gives them their freedom to range. Now he stays right with them on their preserve until October 15, when the close season on quail expires, at which time he has them in shape to put the finishing touch on by working them out on quails, which are very plentiful in this section, not only plenty, but I believe I am safe in saying that they cannot be found anywhere more abundant than they are in this section of Indiana. Mr. Erb is a very ambitious and hard worker. He is out every day with a string of dogs, so that none of his dogs get stale for want of work. He turns them out perfect retrievers, no exceptions. He tells me that sometimes he gets a very stubborn case, but he says they must finally give up to his method of retrieving, which I am not able to tell you ; for it is a secret with him, but it fetches all alike, let it be bulldog or whatever. He says that it is a system that his father used in Germany and also in this country, and taught him several years ago when he and his father were shooting for the mar- ket, and no one knows the method to his knowledge but his father, Mrs. Erb and himself. However, it is a success and it does not intim- idate the dog; but on the other hand it makes a cheerful, obedient and careful retriever of all alike. Someone may ask himself the question why I have written this let- ter in praise of Mr. Erb's handling and excluded all others. It is simply this : I have had dealings with him and not with others. Mr. Erb broke for me last season a large, high-couraged black, white and tan Llewellyn setter dog after I had exhausted all my training ability upon him the season before, and pronounced him entirely worthless and gave up all hope of ever getting any good out of him. I was 91 telling Mr. Erb about him one day, and he said: "Let me take him and if I can't break him to suit you it will cost you nothing." I gave him the dog and in about five months he brought the dog out. That was last October. We went out quail shooting with him. He worked to perfection, and Mr, Erb got his money. To-day I am proud to say that I have as good a dog to shoot over as any man in Indiana, and the world can't beat him retrieving. I have written this letter simply as an honor due from me to Mr. Erb, and for the benefit of brother sportsmen who want dogs thoroughly broken at reasonable figures, to whom I can heartily recommend him. Geo. W. Earhart. Erb's Training Device is protected by Letters Patent. POINTS OF MERIT IN THE ERB COLLAR FOR DOGS AND CATS. Cats will not scratch and fight with the Erb collar on. The sweating of a dog or cat about the neck does not leave any smell or dirt on the Erb collar, or breed any diseases. No dirty collars, no heating or rubbing of the neck, no mange or sores on the neck. No canker of the ear caused by the dog scratching, as he won't scratch with an Erb collar on. No dog fighting, as the Erb collar prevents them from chewing the neck. Handy to put on, no smell. Dog cannot be choked to death, as the collar cannot be twisted like a leather or chain collar. Collars always look nice on a dog, and the dog feels proud with one on. Dog won't chew it up like a leather collar. No buckles, no holes to make. Don't have to take the Erb collar off the dog when you wish to wash him, as water and soap don't hurt the Erb collar. Dog won't jerk or pull against the Erb collar. You can hang fancy trimmings on the Erb collar, and it looks nice. No diseases can be caught with the Erb collar. In taking the measure of your dog for a collar, measure around the dog's neck close up to the ears. No tags, checks or names to lose or steal off the Erb collar, as all checks, tags, name or license numbers can be stamped on the Erb collar. A leather collar breeds disease, which can be carried from one dog to another. You can hold your dog easy with the Erb collar, as there is no twist or break, and you can put your name and dog's name and tax number and full address, and it will not be stolen, as it could not be used by anybody else like a leather or chain collar. You will be right in dog style when you use an Erb collar; they never rust or get out of shape. You don't have to draw the Erb collar up tight like a leather or chain collar to keep it on the dog's neck. 03 Your dog never gets loose with an Erb collar on. No breaking or unbuckling of it. If a stranger tries to take the Erb collar off the dog, the dog will bite him. The snap on the chain always pla3^s all around the Erb collar and won't get fastened. You can send the measurement of your dog's neck if your dealer has not got the Erb collar, to Fred Erb, Jr., Lafayette, Ind. Price one dollar. FRED ERB, JR. TRAINER OF ALL KINDS OF HUNTING DOGS, TRICK DOGS AND CATS. Terms : For trainings dogs complete — $75, one-half down when the dog is shipped, and the balance when the dog is broken and ready to show to the owner ls a completely broken dog in every way. The dog will be taught to point, to retrieve from land or water, to heel to foot or wagon, to charge and to be obedient to gun or whistle wdien birds flush. It takes about five months to break a dog completely. Terms for teaching a dog to retrieve and to be obedient about the house, $50. It takes from ten days to one month to make a good re- triever. Plenty of snipe, woodcock, quail and prairie chickens to work the dogs on, and good horses and hunting wagons to use to carry the dogs in. Persons interested in good training invited to call and inspect the kennels. Instruction in shooting and hunting given at certain seasons of the year. 94 1 CHALLENGE THE WORLD TO EQUAL MY DEVICE FOR TRAINING A DOG To retrieve from land and water, and to be obedient in the field. No spiked collar; no pins; no pulling of ears and no stepping on dog's feet. Done in a simple, pleasant way. The complete device, with a book of instructions and fifteen pictures showing how to begin and end. I challenge all authors of books on retrieving to an exhibition or contest, to show what they can do at making a dog retrieve, to take place at any Kennel Club, or newspaper office. FRED ERB, Jr., Lafayette, Ind. Price, $5. 95 SYSTEM OF RETRIEVING. FIRST LESSON. No. 53. 96 SECOND LESSON. No. 54. THIRD LESSON. No. 55. 98 FOURTH LESSON. No. 56. 99 FIFTH LESSON. No. 57. 100 SIXTH LESSON. No. 58. 101 SEVENTH LESSON. No. 59. lOi EIGHTH LESSON. No. 60. 10^ NINTH LESSON. No. 61. ]U4 TENTH LESSON. No. 62. 105 ELEVENTH LESSON. No. 63. 106 TWELFTH LESSON. \ i .1 mm. No. 64. 107 THIRTEENTH LESSON. No. 65. 108 FOURTEENTH LESSON. No. 66. ino FIFTEENTH LESSON. No. 67. 110 HH^' \^