A 
 NEW COLLECTION 
 
 OF 
 
 GENUINE RECEIPTS, 
 
 FOR THE PREPARATION AND EXECUTION 
 OP 
 
 CURIOUS ARTS, 
 
 AND 
 
 XnttvtutitiQ 12n)trtm*ttt8, 
 
 MEDICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS, DOMES- 
 TIC AND AGRICULTURAL J 
 
 Which are well explained, and warranted genuine, and may 
 be performed easily, safely, and at little expense 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 A COMPLETE AND MUCH APPROVED SYSTEM 
 OP 
 
 DYEING, 
 
 IK ALL ITS VARIETIES, 
 
 i Stereotype edition. 
 CONCORD, N. H. 
 
 PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY Pli E & CHAf E. 
 
 1831. 
 
GENUINE 
 XNVAXUABXE RECEIPTS. 
 
 To Burnish tvilh Gold. 
 
 Make a sizing by boiling the skins of beaver 
 and musk-rats, (which may be easily procured at 
 a hat manufactory,) in water, till it is of sufficient 
 strength, that, by cooling, it will become a jelly, 
 and will support a common leaden bullet on its 
 surface. Strain the liquor, and give your work 
 one coat of it, while warm, with a brush; when 
 this is dry, add a little fine whiting to the sizing, 
 and gi\e the work one coat of this; then add as 
 pwih whiting as will work freely under the brush, 
 and lay on five or six coats of this, allowing it to 
 dry each time. Smooth the work by wetting and 
 rubbing it with pummice stone, and afterwards 
 with sand paper. Take some burnish gold-size 
 (which is composed of pipe clay, black lead and 
 castile soap, but may be procured ready made,) 
 and dilute it with water and the above mentioned 
 sizing, equal quantities, and give the work three 
 successive coats of this; when the last is dry, dip 
 a camel hair pencil in some rum and water, and 
 with it wet a small part of the work, and immedi- 
 ately, while it is flowing, lay on a leaf of gold, 
 brushing it down with a very soft camel hair brush; 
 proceed thus till the whole is gilt, and let it dry 
 Then with a flint burnisher, rub over the whole, 
 carefully, fill you bring it to a perfect polish, and 
 the work is finished. 
 
4 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 To Enamel Picture Glasses. 
 The glass must be washed perfectly clean and 
 dried; then damp it by breathing on it, or wet it 
 with the tongue, and immediately lay on a leaf of 
 gold, and brush it down very smooth. When 
 this is dry, draw any letters or flowers on the gold 
 with Brunswick blacking, and when dry, the su- 
 perfluous gold may be brushed off with cotton, 
 leaving the figure entire. Afterward the whole 
 may be covered with blacking, or painted in any 
 colour, while the gold figures will appear to advan- 
 tage on the opposite side of the glass 
 
 To Wash Iron or Steel with Gold. 
 
 Mix together one part of nitric acid, and two 
 parts of muriatic acid, in a phial, and add gold 
 leaf as much as the acid will dissolve. (This so- 
 lution is called the nitro-muriate of gold.) Pour 
 over this solution cautiously, about half as much 
 sulphuric ether; shake the mixture, and then al- 
 low it to settle. The ether will take the gold from 
 the acid, and will separate itself from it also, and 
 form an upper stratum in the phial. Carefully pour 
 off. this auriferous either, into another phial. Any 
 piece of polished steel, or iron, may be washed 
 over with this ether, and immediately plunged into 
 cold water, and it will have acquired a coat of 
 pure gold, the beauty of which may be increased 
 by burnishing, — In some cases it may be well to 
 heat the iron moderately in a fire, previous to bur- 
 nishing. 
 
 To Wash Bras* or Copper with Silver. 
 To half an ounce of nitric acid, in a phial, add 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 5 
 
 one ounce of water and two drachms of good sil- 
 ver. It will soon be dissolved, and if the acid 
 and metal are both pure, the solution, (which is 
 called nitrate of silver,) will be colourless. Add 
 to the solution rather more tartrate of potass than 
 will dissolve. Then dip a piece of soft leather in 
 the solution, and rub it on the metal till it is dry; 
 the metal may thus be handsomely silvered. — An- 
 other method is, to put some pieces of copper into 
 the solution of silver, which will, throw down the 
 silver in a state of metallic powder. Fifteen or 
 twenty grains of this powder, are mixed with two 
 drachms of tartrate of potass, two drachms of 
 muriate of soda, and half a drachm of alum. Tho 
 metal is first washed with nitric acid, and immedi- 
 ately plunged into clear water, and is then rubbed 
 over with this composition till it is thoroughly sil- 
 vered. 
 
 Ornamental Bronze Gilding. 
 The ground on which bronze ornaments are to 
 be formed, must be varnished with a mixture of 
 copal varnish and old linseed oil. When this is 
 dry, it will adhere slightly to any dry substance 
 that is pressed against it. Whatever figures you 
 intend to bronze, must be represented by holes cut 
 through pieces of paper. Lay these patterns on 
 the work, but not press them down any more than 
 is requisite to keep the paper in its place. Then 
 take a piece of soft deer skin leather, and dip it in 
 some dry bronze (gold in powder) and apply it to 
 the figures, beginning at the edges; tap the figure 
 gently with the leather, and the bronze will stick 
 to the varnish according to the shape of the pat- 
 tern. Thus any figure may be produced, in a va- 
 
6 GEJNU1JNE RECEIPTS 
 
 riety of shades^ by applying the bronze more free- 
 ly to some parts of the work, than to others. If 
 some internal parts of the figures, require to be 
 more distinct than others, they may be wrought 
 with different patterns, or may be edged with dark 
 paint. The work must afterwards have one or 
 more coats of copal or shellac varnish. 
 
 To give Wood a Gold, Silver, or Copper Lustre, 
 
 Grind about two ounces of white beach sand, 
 very fine in a gill of water, in which half an ounca 
 of gum arabic has been dissolved, and brush over 
 the work with it. When this is dry, the work may 
 be rubbed over with a piece of gold, silver or 
 copper, and will, in a measure, assume their re- 
 spective colours and brilliancy. 
 
 To Print Gold Letters on Morocco. 
 
 First wet the morocco with the whites of eggs; 
 when this is dry, rub the work over with a little 
 olive oil, and lay on gold leaves. t Then take some 
 common printing tvpes, and heat them to the tem- 
 
 f>erature of boiling water, and impress whatever 
 etters you choose, on the gold. Rub the whole 
 with a piece of flannel, and the superfluous gold 
 will come off, leaving the letters entire. 
 
 To Dye Silk a Brilliant Gold Colour. 
 To one gill of water in a common flask, add 
 one ounce of clean iron filings, or granulated zinc, 
 and half an ounce of sulphuric acid. Hydrogen 
 gas will be evolved from the water, and rise 
 through the neck of the flask, which must not be 
 stopped. Take a piece of white silk and immerse 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 7 
 
 It in some nitro muriate of gold, which has been 
 diluted with three parts of water, to one of acid; 
 and immediately, while the silk is wet, expose it 
 to the current of gap, as it rises from the flask; 
 the gold will immediately be revived, and the silk 
 will becomeybeautifully and permanently gilt 
 
 To Dye Silk a Brilliant Silver Colour. 
 
 Proceed as in the last experiment; only use the 
 nitrate of silver, instead of the nitro-muriate of 
 gold. Any letters or flowers may be drawn on 
 the silk, with a camel hair pencil, dipped in the 
 solution, and on being exposed to the action of 
 the gas, will be revived and shine with metallic 
 brilliancy. 
 
 Note. — If a jar or box be filled With hydrogen 
 gas, and the silk be suspended in it, the action of 
 the gas, and consequently the revivification of the 
 metal will be more uniform. 
 
 Water proof Grilding and Silvering. 
 Grind one ounce of white lead, and two ounces 
 of litharge, very fine in a gill of old linseed oil; 
 expose this to the sun for a week in an open vessel; 
 then add as mufch spirits of turpentine as will make 
 it work freely with a brush, or camel hair pencil. 
 Whatever letters, or flowers you wish to gild, must 
 be first drawn with this sizing, and when dry, lay 
 on gold or silver leaves smoothly over the whole, 
 pressing them down with soft cotton; then brush 
 over the whole lightly with cotton or a soft brush, 
 and the superfluous leaf will be brushed off, leav- 
 ing the figures entirely gilt by the leaf adhering to 
 the sizing. Note. — The leaves of gold or silvw 
 may be spread on a piece of soft leather and cat 
 
3 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 into pieces by drawing a smooth edged knife over 
 them; — and the pieces may be conveyed to their 
 places on the work, by means of a small block or 
 knife, covered with soft woolen cloth, which being 
 pressed gently on the pieces, takes them from the 
 leather; and again being pressed on the sizing, 
 leaves them there. 
 
 For a Malignant Sore Throat. 
 
 [By Dr. Jacob Ogden, Jamaica, Long El. 
 
 Take Seneka rattlesnake root, Virginia snake 
 root, two ounces, calomus aromaticus, the roots- of 
 wild valerian, tops of rue, the flowers of English 
 camomile each one ounce, cinnamon, myrrh, Rez- 
 in of Guaic. ikittish Saffron, Balsam Capev. pre- 
 pared Crab's eyes, and Arminian bole, each half 
 an ounce. Ginger and Opium each two drachms 
 Maderia wine, enough to dissolve the opium, and 
 of clarified honey, thrice the weight of all the pow- 
 ders. 
 
 To a child of one year old 15 grains of the Trea- 
 cle and 2 or 3 grains of Calom. To 8 years old, 
 1-2 drachm and 4 or 5 grains of calom. To a 
 grown person, near 2 drachms and 6 or 8 grains 
 of calom. — repeat every 12, 16, 20 or 24 hours. 
 Drink strong sage tea, acidulated with vinegar — 
 keep the patient warm by avoiding the cold air — 
 a little murcury may be given in the intervals, if 
 the urgency of the symptoms require it. 
 
 Another Cure for the Throat Distemper 
 
 Purge with calomel, then take Borax, bole Ar- 
 menic, and Sang. Draconis of each an equal 
 quantity; when finely powdered, to a quarter of an 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 9 
 
 ounce of that mixture, add 3 gills of vinegar and 
 4 ounces of honey, which shake well together for 
 a Gargle, and use it warm every two hours. 
 
 Polipus in the Nose. 
 Take blood root powdered fine, and used as 
 snuff, will cure. 
 
 For the Ulcers. 
 Take 4 ounces honey, tinct. of myrrh and vine- 
 gar, of each an ounce, loaf sugar, two ounces, Bo- 
 rax and balsam sulphur, of each half an» ounce — t 
 mix this to a balsam with the yolk of an egg, with 
 a rag tied to a skewer to cleanse and anoint the ul- 
 cers after every gargling. 
 
 Whooping Cough. 
 Take a wine glass of rum, and a little spirits of 
 turpentine, shake well together, rub the child by 
 .the fire gently down the neck and chin, night and 
 morning; in a few days the cough will be cured. 
 
 Another. 
 Take dried Colts foot, a good handful, cut it fine 
 and boil it in a pint of spring water, to half a pint, 
 when almost cold, strain it and squeezing the herb 
 as dry as you can. Dissolve in it half an ounce 
 of sugar candy finely powdered, add one spoonful 
 and a half of tincture of Liquorice. Give a child 
 one spoonful 3 or 4 times a day and more to a grown 
 person. It will cure in three or four days. 
 
 Jl Mouth-wash for the Canker. 
 Take sage, rose leaves, blue violets, a li *Ie alum 
 and honey. 
 
10 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 Abel Puffer's Cure for the Bite of a Rattle Snake. 
 
 As soon as may be after the person is bit, cut a 
 gash in the place bitten, as deep as the teeth went, 
 and fill it with fine salt — take common plaintain, 
 or strong brine, bruise it, add a little water, squeeze 
 out the juice and mix it with clear water, make a 
 brine with salt and the juice, till it will not dissolve 
 the salt; then apply a linen bandage, above the 
 swelling, but not too tight, keep it wet with the 
 brine for it will dry very fast — stroke the part with 
 the hand towards the cut, as hard as can be borne, 
 and you will soon see the poison and virulent mat- 
 ter flow out of the cut; and if it flows so fast as to 
 swell below the cut, you must cut below, to give 
 vent to the matter, and it will not leave running till 
 ail is discharged. Move the bandage downwards 
 as the swelling abates. Give the patient sweet oil, 
 saffron or snake root to defend the stomach. It 
 often bleeds after the poison is out, which is a good . 
 sign, care must be taken, that none of the virulent 
 matter get to any raw flesh. Mr. Puffer has cured 
 two persons dangerously bit, and a horse and dog. 
 
 Nerve ointment. 
 
 Take neats foot oil, oil terebinth, brandy and oil 
 of John's wort, beef gall and simmer together. 
 
 Cancers. 
 Repeated application of leaches to cancers have 
 been attended with great success. A man with a 
 oancer on the lip, which had been cut without ef- 
 fect, had leaches applied; the three first, after suck- 
 ing, fell off* dead, in a few days after three more 
 shared the same fate. In a week after three more 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 1 1 
 
 were applied, which dropped off alive. This 
 wrought a perfect cure. 
 
 •Another. 
 
 Apply a poultice of Carrots, warm, fill all the 
 holes and hollows of the ulcer, covered with a warm 
 clcth, renew it twice a day — wash it with a decoc- 
 tion of hemlock. Also, warm milk and water is 
 good; drink 2 or 3 pints of the infusion of malt 
 daily. Three pints of boiling water poured on 
 half a pint of malt is generally sufficient. 
 
 Another. 
 The tail of a Lizzard boiled, produces a gravy 
 or broth, which being drank a few times, cures rad- 
 ically, the most inveterate cancer. 
 
 Another. 
 An Empl. of Cicuta applied to a cancer after 
 rubbing with a solution of Sub. Corros. scarifying 
 the tumor, a little, will infallibly cure them. The 
 solution is made by dissolving 1 dr. in 1 oz. of wa- 
 ter, give a gill of Cicuta morning and evening. 
 
 Dropsy. 
 Six quarts old hard cider, 1 pint mustard seed 
 pounded, 1 double handful parsley roots, do. lig- 
 num vitse shavings, 1 do. horse radish roots, sim- 
 mer over a slow fire 48 hours, take a teacupful 
 three times a day. It operates powerfully by urine. 
 
 Another. 
 Put a large cup full of bohea tea into a tea pot, 
 steep it, drink the liquor by degrees, and eat all 
 
12 GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 the tea leaves or grounds, in the course of the fore- l 
 noon. Do the like in the afternoon, and so pro- 
 ceed on for 3 or 4 days. The water will be dis- 
 charged by natural evacuations. 
 
 •Another. 
 A strong decoction of the leaves or ripe berries 
 of dwarf elder has cured a man of an inveterate 
 dropsy in about a week. Sweeten it with molasses. 
 
 Bone Ointment. 
 Take wormwood, camomile, St. John's wort, 
 henbane, night shade, plaintain, green tobacco, 
 melilot, simmer in hog's lard and fresh butter, then 
 strain off, for use. 
 
 Another 
 Take mullin, camomile, catmint, tansev. burdoc 
 mayweed, penny royal, mint, asmart, yarrow, 
 wormwood indigo weed, simmer gently together in 
 fresh butter, till they are crisp and strain out for 
 use. 
 
 Quinsy. 
 Mix oil Amygdal. Dulcis with spts. sal amnion 
 dip in a piece of baize and apply to the part affec- 
 ted. 
 
 Liquid Laudanum. 
 Take proof spirit one pound, opium two ounces, 
 Croc. Ang. one ounce, infuse and strain. 
 I feel, O laudanum, thy power divine, 
 I fall, with pleasure, at thy slumbering shrine, 
 Lull'd by thy charms, I 'scape each anxious 
 
 thought, 
 And every thing but Mira is forgot. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. IS 
 
 Floreg Antimonii, are highly extolled for scor- 
 butic eruptions, hypocondriac affections, paralytic 
 disorders, in a Mania it is considered as a specific, 
 confirmed Lues, Rheumatism. 
 
 Volatile IAnament for the Sciatica. 
 
 Take Tern. Feenic. Cimin. a. a. 1-2 oz. 
 
 Sal. C. C. Volat. 4scrup. 
 
 Camoh. 3 scrup. 
 
 Sapo Castiel, 2 oz. 
 
 Ungt. Dialth. 4 oz. 
 Rub the articles very fine, add the Ungt. and lastly 
 the Sal. C. C. Spread on thin leather, and apply, 
 fresh mace, to the hip. 
 
 Janudice. 
 Take the white of an Egg and two glasses of 
 spring water, beat well together, and drink it every 
 morning, it cools the lungs, promotes perspiration, 
 invigorates the animal spirits, causes digestion, and 
 creates an apetite. 
 
 Rickets. 
 Buckshorn roots that grows in meadows two 
 ounces, New-England Gentian two ounces, Rhu- 
 barb 50 grains, Stoned Raisins one pound, put them 
 into a quart of good wine, steep them 24 hours and 
 give two spoonfulls morning and evening. 
 
 To Silver Looking Glasses. 
 Take some fine plaster of paris, and mix it with 
 water to the consistence of soft putty; spread this 
 out thin on a board; lay the glass on this and press 
 it down till it lays quite close and make an im- 
 pression in the plaster; let it remain till the plaff 
 
14 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 ter is dry. Then take up the glass and spread 
 some tin foil over the impression, and press it with 
 the glass into the plaster mould, to make it lie 
 close. Then pour on a little mercury, and spread 
 it all over the tin foil; place the glass in the mould 
 again, and place a weight on it, as heavy as may 
 be without endangering the glass, and leave it two 
 or three days. Then pour off the superfluous 
 mercury, and raise the glass from the mould cau- 
 tiously, and the amalgum of tin and mercury., 
 which is formed by the process, will adhere to the 
 glass, which will thus be perfectly silvered. 
 
 To write on Paper ivith Gold or Silver. 
 Take some nitro-muriate of gold, or nitrate of 
 silver and expose it to a gentle heat in an open 
 vessel, by which means, the acid will be evapora- 
 ted, and the metal will form itself in crystals on 
 the sides, or at the bottom of the vessel. These 
 crystals may be carefully collected, and dissolved 
 in water. With this solution, (which is an aqueous 
 solution of nitro-muriate of gold, or nitrate of sil- 
 ver) any writing may be performed on paper, with 
 a common penj and by being exposed while damp, 
 to the action of hydrogen gas, the writing will be 
 revived in metallic lustre. 
 
 To make Good Shining Black Ink. 
 Take two ounces of nut-galls in coarse powder; 
 one ounce of wood in thin chips; one ounce of 
 sulphate of iron; three fourths of an ounce of gum 
 arabic; one fourth of an ounce of sulphate of cop- 
 per; and one fourth of an ounce of loaf sugar. 
 Boil the galls and logwood together in three pints 
 of water, till the quantity is reduced to oae half. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS 15 
 
 • 
 
 Then the liquor must be strained through a flannel 
 into a proper vessel, and the remainder of the in- 
 gredients be added to it. The mixture is then to 
 be frequently stirred till the whole is dissolved; 
 after which it must be left at rest for twenty-four 
 hours. The ink may then be decanted from the 
 gross sediment, and must be preserved in a glass 
 bottle well corked. 
 
 Blue Ink. 
 Dissolve one ounce of gum arabic in a pint of 
 water. In a part of this gum water, grind a small 
 quantity of best prussian blue; you may thus 
 bring it to any depth of colour you choose. 
 
 Red Ink. 
 In the above mentioned gum water, grind very 
 fine three parts of vermillion with one of lake or 
 carmine. This is a very perfect colour, but may 
 require to be shaken up occasionally. 
 
 Yelloio Ink. 
 Steep one ounce of turmeric, in powder, in a 
 gill of good rum or gin which is not coloured; let 
 it rest twenty-four hours; then throw it on a cloth, 
 and express the colored liquor, which mix with 
 gum water. 
 
 Green Ink. 
 To the tincture of turmeric, add a little prus- 
 sian blue. 
 
 Purple Ink. 
 Grind, or dissolve some lake in water; other- 
 wile express the juice from the deepest coloured 
 
l« GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 beets; to either of these, add a little blue and gum 
 water. 
 
 To write in various Colours, with the tame Pen, 
 Ink and Paper. 
 
 Take a sheet of white paper, and wet some parts 
 of it with a solution of sub-carbonate of potass; 
 wet some other parts of it with the same but more 
 diluted; some other parts with diluted muriatic 
 acid; and other parts with a solution of sulphate 
 of iron; dry the paper and it will be white as ever. 
 Then take the juice of blue violets, or tincture of 
 red cabbage, (water that has been poured while 
 hot, upon red cabbage in thin slices,} and with it 
 write on the paper. The ink is of itself, a faint 
 purple; where the paper was wet with acid, it will 
 instantly become red; on the diluted alkali, it will 
 become green; on the stronger alkaline solution, 
 it will take a yellow; and on the sulphate of iron, 
 it will become deep purple or brown. Thus you 
 will have several colours in the same line of writ- 
 ing. 
 
 Invisible Ink for Secret Correspondence. 
 Dissolve muriate of ammonia in water, and 
 write; — the writing will be invisible. When you 
 would make the writing appear, heat the paper by 
 the fire and the letters will become black. 
 
 Sympathetic Inks. 
 Process I. — Write with a solution of sulphate 
 of iron,— the writing will be invisible. Dip a feath- 
 er in an infusion of nutgalls (water in which pul- 
 verised nutgalls have been steeped,) and the writ- 
 ing will become black, 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 17 
 
 Process 2. — Write with a dilute infusion of galls, 
 — it will be invisible. Dip a feather in a solution 
 of sulphate of iron, and moisten the paper with it 
 and the writing will become black. 
 
 Process I. — Write with a solution of sub-carbo- 
 nate of potass; wet this writing with a solution of 
 sulphate of iron, — it will take a deep yellow col- 
 our. 
 
 Process 4. — Write with a solution of sulphate 
 of copper, — no writing will be visible. Wash the 
 paper with a solution of prussiate of potass, — the 
 writing will then get a reddish brown colour. 
 
 Pncess 5. — Write with diluted nitrate of silver, 
 and let the writing dry in the dark — it will be in- 
 visible; but expose the paper to the ray3 of the 
 sun, and the writing will become black. 
 
 Luminous Ink that will shine in the Dark. 
 To half an ounce of sulphuric ether, in a phial, 
 add one drachm of phosphorus; cork the phial 
 close and let it remain two or three weeks, often 
 shaking it. Afterwards any words may be written 
 with it on dark coloured paper, and if carried into 
 & dark room, will appear very bright. 
 
 To make a Writing appear and disappear at pleas- 
 ure. 
 Dissolve equal parts of sulphate of copper and 
 muriate of ammonia in water, and write. When 
 you would make the writing appear, warm the pa- 
 per gently by the fire; the writing will appear in a 
 vellow colour; but as soon as you take the paper 
 2# 
 
IB GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 Into the cold air, the writing will vanish, Thi* 
 may be often repeated. 
 
 To make a Writing vanish and another appear in 
 its place. 
 Write on paper with a solution of sub-carbonate 
 of potass, — the writing will be invisible. Mix to- 
 gether equal parts of salution of sulphate of iron, 
 and infusion of galls; write with this mixture 
 (which is black) on the same paper. Then add 
 to the black liquor a little sulphuric acid, sufficient 
 to deprive it of colour. Wet the paper with this 
 compound; the acid will discharge the colour from 
 the last writing, while the alkali of the first, will 
 precipitate the gallate of iron, and the writing will 
 become black. 
 
 To restore old Writing that is nearly defaced 
 Boil one ounce of powdered nut-galls, for an 
 hour or more in a pint of white wine; filter the 
 liquor, and when cold, wet the paper with it, or 
 pass it on the line9 with a camel-hair pencil, and 
 the writing will be much revived. 
 
 To paint a Picture that will appear and disappear 
 occasionally. 
 To half an ounce of nitric acid, add one drachm 
 of cobalt, one drachm of muriate of soda, and two 
 ounces of water; set it in a sand bath, or on warn? 
 ashes, where it must remain five or six hours. 
 Then filter the solution, (which is nitro-muriate of 
 cobalt,) and with it draw the trees, and shrubberj 
 of a designed picture. Then with a solution of 
 oxide of cobalt in acetic acid, draw some distan 
 mountf'us, fences, 8tc. and with muriate of coppei 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 19 
 
 draw some flowers, buildings, 8tc. These will all 
 be invisible when dry; but warm the paper and 
 the picture will appear in green, blue and yellow. 
 It will disappear when the paper becomes cold. 
 
 To give Iron the Whiteness of Silver. 
 To nitric acid, diluted with an equal quantity of 
 water, add as much mercury as the acid will dis- 
 solve; then add to the solution, three or four times 
 as much water, and having given the iron a coat 
 of copper, by immersing it in a solution of sulphate 
 of copper, brush it over with the diluted nitrate of 
 mercury; its appearance will be equal, if not su- 
 perior to that of real silver. In this manner any 
 common, or rough iron work, may be apparently 
 silvered at a most insignificant expense. 
 
 To cure the Jaundice. 
 Take the white of an egg and two glasses of 
 spring water, beat well together, and drink it every 
 morning, it cools the lungs, promotes perspiration, 
 invigorates the animal spirits, causes digestion, and 
 creates an appetite. 
 
 The Stone. 
 Take Alicant Soap 8 parts, Oyster Shell Lime 
 1 part, beat into a mass with water, then dissolve 
 the mass into an Emulsion, by adding more water 
 so as to make 6 quarts of the emulsion, from every 
 pound of soap avoirdupois; let it stand a month, 
 stir it frequently and give half a pint three times a 
 day. 
 
 Stone or Gravel. 
 Take a large handful of the fibres or roots of 
 
20 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 garden Leejts, put them into two quarts of soft wa- 
 ter; simmer gently over the fire close stopped, to 
 the consumption of one half; pour off and drink a 
 pint in the day, morning, noon, and night. This is 
 for an adult — it is some weeks before relief appears; 
 perseverance gains the point. 
 
 Corns. 
 It is said, if you bind a lock of unwrought cot- 
 ton on a Corn for a week or two, you will find in an 
 unaccountable manner, the corn will be dislodged. 
 
 Tooth-Ache. 
 Burn a sheet of clean white writing paper on a 
 clean white plate, take up the oil with clean cotton, 
 and apply it in or on the tooth 12 or 15 minutes. 
 
 Putrid sore Throat. 
 TaKe a handful of hops, steep in spirits and ap- 
 ply a common funnel to the liquid, let the patient 
 ipply the funnel to his throat, and thereby absorb 
 he steam. Let the hops be applied like a poultice 
 co the throat, and occasionally repeated. 
 
 Salve for cuts, fyc. 
 
 Take 1-2 pint sweet oil, 5 ounces red lead fine- 
 ly sifted, boil the same together, till they turn black, 
 a,dd rozin 2 ounces; by small quantities at a time 
 r .o prevent its boiling over; add a tea spoonfull 
 Venice turpentine, pour it all into a vessel of cold 
 vvater; oil a board to work it on, roll it till it be- 
 somes smooth and hard, lay on a board to dry in 
 
 rolls. 
 
 Worms. 
 
 Boil 4 ounces quick silver in one quart soft wn- 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. fll 
 
 ter ftn hour, in a glazed pipkin, pour it off, bottle it 
 for use. Boil the quicksilver as often as needful. 
 Children may drink a gill, suited to their taste. 
 Adults may drink it indifferently as water. Then 
 purge off Ine dead worms. 
 
 To clean Teeth. 
 Rub the teeth two or three times a day with a 
 ve»y fine powder of red Coral, washing them well 
 with water in which Sal Prunel. is dissolved 
 
 Corns — a plaister. 
 Spread a plaister of Gum Ammon. and apply it 
 to the corn, till it has sufficiently done the design- 
 ed work of emolition. 
 
 Gout. 
 Apply a Leek poultice to the part affected; nu- 
 merous instances of its efficacy in this painful dis- 
 order, have recently^ occurred; its culture should 
 be cherished as a medicine of inestimable value. 
 
 Weak and weeping Eyes. 
 Make a strong decoction of camomile, boiled in 
 sweet cow's milk; bathe the eyes several times a 
 day, as warm as can be borne. It must be contin- 
 ued several weeks. 
 
 Rheumatism. 
 
 Put 1 ounce of gum camphor into a quart of 
 spirits, and as much of the bark of sassafras roots 
 as the spirits will cover, steep 12 hours at least — 
 take half a wine glass full at bed time, in the morn- 
 ing, and before noon. Rub the parts affected with 
 
22 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 it — the dose may be increased if necessary — it pro- 
 duces perspiration — avoid taking cold. 
 
 Jumble Beer. 
 Take two spoonfulls of ground ginger, and one 
 pint of molasses, to 2 1-2 pails of water; fnV: mix 
 <he ingredients with a little water warmed, espe- 
 cially in cold weather; then add the whole compli- 
 ment of water and shake it very briskly, and in 
 about six or eight hours it will be sufficiently fer- 
 mented. 
 
 Wine from Cider. 
 Add to a barrell of cider from the press, honey 
 sufficient to bear up an egg ; work all of the filth 
 out of the bung hole, by keeping the barrell full; 
 in about five weeks, draw off the pure liquor into 
 a tub, and put the whites of eight eggs, well beat- 
 en up with a pint of clean sand into a tub; then 
 add one gallon of cider spirits, and mix the whole 
 together; and having cleansed the barrell, return 
 the liquor into it, bung it tight, and when fine, rack 
 it off into kegs for use. It does not cost 25 cents 
 per gallon. 
 
 Waterproof Leather 
 Take Linseed Oil one lb. Beeswax six ounces, 
 mutton suet eight ounces, melt the whole together 
 slowly, rub the composition well upon boots and 
 shoes; soles as well as upper leather. 
 
 Tanning Leather. 
 An eminent tanner in Poland, has ascertained 
 that the leaves of the oak are equal to the bark, in 
 tanning leather ; provided they are used in th® 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 23 
 
 month of September, when they possess a bitter sap, 
 which they afterwards lose. 
 
 Star in a Horse's forehead. 
 
 Take pickled mackerel and confine it on in any 
 shape you please, three or four days repeating, and 
 it will produce a white spot. 
 
 Rub the white saddle spots, on a horse's back, a 
 few times daily in the spring of the year, before 
 the coat is shed, with bacon grease, and it will re- 
 store the natural colour. 
 
 Improvement in Bread. 
 Take flour 5 lbs. Rice 1 lb. boil the rice very 
 soft, if too thick, add a little warm water, then add 
 your yeast. This makes 8 lbs. of bread. 
 
 Preservation of fresh meat. 
 Put fresh meat in a close vessel containing vin- 
 egar, which will preserve it a considerable time. 
 Tainted meet may be rendered good by pickling it 
 in potash water for some time; before it is cookew 
 however, it should be dipped in vinegar a short time, 
 and then salted in brine. 
 
 Mending China. 
 Pound flint glass very fine, then grind it on a 
 painter's stone with the white of an egg; it will 
 not break in the same place. 
 
 Writing Ink. 
 Take four ounces of Nutgalls, Coperas and Gum 
 Arabic, each two ounces, one quart of rain water; 
 mix and shake up well, and often. If it is set in the 
 sun, it will be the sooner fit for use. 
 
 
S4 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 Red hair made black. 
 Take black lead and ebony shavings each 1 
 ounce, of clear water 1 pint; boil together 1 hoar, 
 and when fine, bottle it for use. The comb must 
 be often wet, and the hair frequently combed; and 
 if a fine black is required, add two ounces of cam- 
 phor. 
 
 A Cordial. 
 Take seven lemons, one quart of rum or brandy, 
 six ounces good loaf sugar, one gill of new milk; 
 simmer the sugar in half a pint of spring water, and 
 skim it; let the milk be made as warm as it comes 
 from the cow, put the very thin parings of the rinde 
 ofit-he lemons with the milk and syrup, into a jug 
 with the rum, close stopped; shake well for three 
 days, then filter through paper, and bottle it. 
 
 Shoe Blacking. 
 Take 1 quart of good vinegar, four ounces Ivo- 
 ry Black, one table spoonful of sweet oil, one gill 
 of molasses, 1-2 an ounce oil vitriol; the vitriolto 
 be put in last, and well stirred together. 
 
 Botts in a Horse. 
 Bleed in the mouth; in about an hour or two af- 
 ter the blood is stopped, pour down two ounces of 
 alum dissolved in a quart of cider, warmed. 
 
 Iron Moulds. 
 Take strong spirits of salts, and dipping the fin- 
 ger in it f daub the stain with acid, letting it rest un- 
 til it is removed. If the spot has been frequently 
 washed, it will be hard to move; in this case put 
 on a little salt of sorrel and then rub it well with a 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS 25 
 
 ihce of lemon. Then wash it in hot soap and wa- 
 ter, and rinse it, and again with salt of sorrel and 
 lemon; or, add to it the tincture of galls, till it turns 
 black ; let it dry, then apply salt of sorrel and lem- 
 on: sometimes one and sometimes the other an- 
 swers. 
 
 Liquid Blacking. 
 Take three ounces gum shellack, 11-2 ounce 
 Venice turpentine, one pint spirits wine, four table 
 spoonfuls of ivory black ; put the gum lack in the 
 spirits wine, stop it, put it into hot water y or in the 
 sun, until dissolved, then add the turpentine and 
 ivory black; when well mixed and shook up, apply 
 it with a sponge or small brush. 
 
 To destroy Flies. 
 Take half a tea spoonful of black pepper made 
 fine, a tea spoonful of brown sugar, a table spoon- 
 ful of cream; lay in a plate and set it for them. 
 
 Bed Bugs. 
 Dissolve one ounce of succotrine aloes in a gill 
 of spirits, this will clear several bedsteads, with a 
 trifling cost — mark the breadth of a finger with the 
 solution, round the foot of each bedpost. 
 
 Raisin Wine. 
 Put 20 pounds of raisins, with the stalks into a 
 hogshead, and fill it almost full of spring water; let 
 it steep about twelve days, frequently stirring it 
 about, and after pouring the juice off press the 
 r isins, put all the liquor together in a clean ves- 
 el. You will find it to hiss for some time, and 
 when the noise ceases, stop it close and let it stand 
 
 / 
 
26 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 for six or seven months; and then, if it proves fine 
 and clear, rack it off into another vessel ; stir it up 
 and let it remain twelve or fourteen weeks longer; 
 then bottle it off. 
 
 Ink spots on Cotton. 
 Apply strong vinegar, lemon juice and salt; by 
 rubbing the spot with part of a lemon or common 
 muriatic acid diluted. Washing the spot well m 
 cold water after the stain is removed. 
 
 To remove Printing Ink. 
 Apply warm oil of turpentine, by rubbing the 
 spot it will extract ink or paint. Warm the tur- 
 pentine by putting the vial in warm water. 
 
 Stain of fruit or ivine. 
 Apply strong spirits of wine ; if that does not suc- 
 ceed, apply oxy muriatic acid, and washing with 
 soap alternately . Apply this, in a small tea or cof- 
 fee cup, put three or four tea spoonfuls of common 
 spirits of salt, to this add about half a spoonful of 
 red lead, after having immersed the small cup in a 
 larger one containing hot water; moisten the stain 
 and stretch it over the vapor, till the stain be effa- 
 ced — wash it well in water. 
 
 To remove grease spots. 
 Apply white tobacco pipe clay, or French chalk 
 (that is Steatite or soap stone) put blotting paper 
 over it and apply a hot iron at a little distance. 
 This will take out much of the grease by repetition. 
 Good ether or hot oil of turpentine will efface tho 
 remainder. Where you can venture to wash the 
 olace, a good washing with hot soap and water, will 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 27 
 
 answer every purpose. You may thus efface grease 
 spots from paper, should any slight stain remain at 
 the edges, brush it with a camel's hair pencil, dip- 
 ped in very strong spirits of wine or ether 
 
 Eye Stone. 
 It is asserted, tnat a grain of flax seed possesses 
 all the valuable properties of an eye stone. 
 
 Dye — Yellow and Green. 
 Cut the tops of potatoes when in the flower, 
 bruise and press it, to obtain the juice. Linen or 
 woollen kept in this 48 hours takes a fine yellow. 
 Plunged afterwards in a blue dye it acquires a per- 
 manent green color. 
 
 Ginger Beer. 
 Tak^ forty quarts of water, thirteen pounds su- 
 gar, twelve good lemons, or a proportionable quan 
 tity of lime juice, eight ounces of bruised ginger, 
 and the whites of six eggs, well beaten; mix all to- 
 gether, skimming it before it begins to boil, and 
 boil it for twenty minutes; add an ounce of ising- 
 glass, and a spoonful of balm, after it is put into 
 the cask, stir it well; it will be ready for bottling 
 in ten days. , 
 
 Potatoes. 
 Plough a deep furrow, place a quantity of cut 
 straw or old hay in the furrow, and lay the seed po- 
 tatoes on it and cover as usual. The potatoes will 
 be of better quality. It has been proved, that one 
 large potatoe put into a hill is preferable and more 
 productive than cutting them in the usual way. — 
 Pick off the blows and balls. 
 
58 GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 To clarify Beer. 
 Put in a piece of soft chalk, as big as two hen's 
 eggs to a barrell, which will disturb the lflquor and 
 cause it to fine, and will draw brisk, though it was 
 flat before. 
 
 Shoe Blacking. 
 Take 4 ounces ivory black, and half pint of vin- 
 egar, mix and apply with a brush in the usual way. 
 
 Bees preserved. 
 About the first of May, raise the hives a little, 
 and strew some fine salt under the edge, which will 
 drive the worms away. 
 
 Corn Stalks. 
 Do not be in haste to cut your stalks, until they 
 loose their deep green color, begin to turn yellow 
 and become dry at the top end; the sap of the up- 
 per stock is absorbed and is necessary to the growth 
 of the ear; by cutting too early you will loose more 
 in grain than is gained in fodder. When corn is 
 frost bitten, cut it up by the roots, tye it in small 
 bundles and stook it. 
 
 Spring Rye. 
 Sow a peck of oats, with a bushel of spring rye 
 to prevent blasting, it is easily separated from the 
 rye by a good winnowing mill. This has been 
 proved. 
 
 Fall Ploughing. 
 By ploughing land in the fall, intended to be 
 planted the next season, the weeds are turned in 
 and grub worms and egg% are destroyed. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 29 
 
 To bleach Cotton. 
 The first operation consists in scouring it in a 
 slight alkaline solution; or what is better, by expo- 
 sure to steam. It is afterwards put into a basket, 
 and rinsed in running water. The immersion of 
 cotton in an alkaline ley, however it may be rinsed, 
 always leaves with it an earthy deposit. It is well 
 known that cotton bears the action of acids better 
 than hemp or flax; that time is even necessary be- 
 for the action of them can be prejudicial to it; and 
 by taking advantage of this valuable property in re- 
 gard to bleaching, means have been found to free 
 it from the earthy deposit, by pressing down the cot- 
 ton in a very weak solution of sulphuric acid, and 
 afterwards removing the acid by washing, lest too 
 long remaining in it should destroy the cotton. 
 
 To bleach Wool. 
 
 The first kind of bleaching to which wool is sub- 
 jected, is to free it from grease. This operation is 
 called scouring. In manufactories, it is generally 
 performed by an ammoniacal ley, formed of five 
 measures of river water and one of stale urine; 
 the wool is immersed for about twenty minutes in 
 a bath of this mixture, heated to fifty six degrees: 
 it is then taken out, suffered to drain, and then rins- 
 ed in running water: this manipulation softens the 
 wool, and gives it the first degree of whiteness; it 
 is then repeated a second, and even a third time, 
 after which the wool is fit to be employed. In 
 some places scouring is performed with water slight- 
 ly impregnated with sop; and, indeed, for valuable 
 articles, this process is preferable, but it is too ex- 
 pensive for articles of less value. 
 
 Sulphuric acid gas unites very easily with water, 
 3* 
 
80 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 and in this combination it may be employed for 
 bleaching wool and silk. 
 
 To bleach silk. 
 Take a solution of caustic soda, so weak as to 
 make only a fourth of a degree, at most, of the 
 areometer for salts, and fill with it the boiler of the 
 apparatus for bleaching with steam. Charge the 
 frames with skeins of raw silk, and place them in 
 the apparatus until it is full ; then close the door 
 and make the solution boil. Having continued the 
 ebulution for twelve hours, slacken the fire, and 
 open Ihe door of the apparatus. The heat of the 
 steam, which is always above 250 degrees, will have 
 been sufficient to free the silk from the gum, and to 
 Bcour it. Wash the skeins in warm water ; and 
 having wrung them, place them again on the frames 
 in the apparatus to undergo a second boiling. Then 
 wash them several times in water, and immerse 
 them in water somewhat soapy, to give them a lit- 
 tle softness. Notwithstanding the whiteness which 
 silk acquires by these different alterations, it must 
 be carried to a higher degree of splendour by ex- 
 posing it to the action of sulpheric acid gas, in a 
 close chamber, or by immersing it in sulphurous 
 acid, as before recommended for wool. 
 
 To clean silk stockings. 
 Wash with soap and water; and simmer them in 
 the same for ten minutes, rinsing in cold water. 
 For a blue cast, put one drop of liquid blue, into a 
 pan of cold spring water, run the stockings through 
 this a minute or two, and dry them. For a pink 
 cast, put one or two drops of saturated pink dye 
 into cold water, and rinse them through this. For 
 
GENUWNE RECEIPTS. 31 
 
 a flesh color, add a little rose pink in a thin soap 
 liquor, rub them with clean flannel, and calender 
 or mangle them. 
 
 To clean buff colored cloth. 
 Take tobacco pipe clay, and mix it with water 
 as thick as lime-water used for whitewashing rooms; 
 spread this over the cloth, and when it is dry, rub 
 it off with a brush, and the cloth will look extreme- 
 ly well. 
 
 To wash fine lace or linen. 
 Take a gallon of furze blossoms and burn them 
 to ashes, then boil them in six quarts of soft water; 
 this, when fine, use in washing with the suds, as 
 occasion requires, and the linen, &c. will not onl) 
 be exceedingly white, but it is done with half the 
 soap, and little trouble. 
 
 To clean white veils. 
 Put the veil in a solution of white soap, and U 
 it simmer a quarter of an hour. Squeeze it i 
 some water and soap till quite clean. Rinse it froi 
 soap, and then in clean cold water, in which is 
 drop of liquid blue. Then pour boiling water up 
 on a teaspoonful of starch, run the veil through 
 this, and clear it well, by clapping it. Afterwards 
 pin it out, keeping the edges straight and even. 
 
 To clean black silks. i 
 
 To bullock's gall add boiling water sufficient 
 make it warm, and with a clean sponge, rub t 
 silk well on both sides, squeeze it well out, a 
 proceed again in like manner. Rinse it in sprin, 
 water, and change the water till perfectly clear 
 dry it in the air, and pin it out on a table; but fin 
 
52 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 dip the sponge in glue water, and rub it on the 
 wrong side; then dry it before a fire. 
 
 To clean black veils. 
 
 Pass them through a warm liquor of bullock's 
 
 gall and water; rinse in cold water: then take a 
 
 small piece of glue, pour boiling water on it, and 
 
 pass the veil through it; clap it, and frame it to dry 
 
 To clean scarlet cloth. 
 Dissolve the best white soap; and if black look- 
 ing spots appear, rub dry soap on them; while the 
 other soap is dissolving; with hot water, brush it 
 off. If very dirty, immerse the article into the 
 warm solution and rub the stained parts. Dispatch 
 it quickly, and as soon as the colour begins to give 
 wring it out, and immerse it in a pan or pail of warm 
 water; wring it again, and immerse it in cold spring 
 water, in which mix a table spoonfull of solution of 
 tin. Stir it about, and in ten minutes hang it to dry 
 in the shade, and cold press it. 
 
 To dip scarlet cloth. 
 
 After it has been thoroughly cleaned with soap, 
 
 and rinsed with warm water, put into boiling spring 
 
 water, a quarter of a pound of young fustic, or 
 
 ^ant, a drachm of pounded and sifted cochineal, 
 
 nd and equal quantity of cream of tartar and coch- 
 
 ieal; boil five or six minutes, and cool by adding 
 
 pint or two of cold spring water, and a table 
 
 oonful of the solution of tin. Stir the mixture, 
 
 it in the cloth, boil for ten minutes, and when dry 
 
 ;old press it. 
 
 Dip a brush in warm gall, and apply it to greasy 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. S3 
 
 places, rinse it off in cold water; dry by the fire, 
 then lay the coat flat, strew damp sand over it, and 
 with a brush beat the sand into the cloth ; then 
 brush it out with a hard brush, and the sand will 
 bring away the dirt. — Rub a drop of oil of olivet 
 over a soft brush, to brighten the colours 
 
 To take stains out of siver plate. 
 Steep the plate in soap leys for the space of four 
 hours, then cover it over with whiting wet with vin- 
 egar, so that it may stick thick upon it, and dry it 
 by the fire; after which, rub off the whiting and 
 pass it over with bran, and the spots will not only 
 disappear, but the plate will look exceedingly 
 bright. 
 
 To cleanse gloves without wetting. 
 Lay the gloves upon a clean board, make a mix- 
 ture of dried fulling earth and powdered allum, and 
 pass them over on each side with a common stiff 
 brush; then sweep it off, snd sprinkle them well 
 with dry bran and whiting, and dust them well ; 
 this, if they be not exceedingly greasy, will render 
 them quite clean; but if they are much soiled take 
 out the grease with crumbs of toasted bread, and 
 powder of burnt bone ; then pass them over with a 
 woollen cloth dipped in fulling earth or alum pow- 
 der; and in this manner they can be cleaned with- 
 out wetting, which frequently shrinks and spoils 
 them. 
 
 To lake out waiting. 
 When recently written, ink may be completely 
 removed by the oxymuriatic acid, (concentrated 
 and in solution.) Tho paper is to be washed over 
 
34 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 repeatedly with the acid; but it will be necessary 
 afterward to wash it with lime water, for the pur- 
 pose of neutralizing any acid that may be left on 
 the paper, and which would considerably weaken 
 it. If the ink has been long written, it will have 
 undergonesuch a change as to prevent the preced- 
 ing process acting. It ought therefore to be wash- 
 ed with liver of sulphur (sulphuret of ammonia) 
 before the oxymuriatic acid is applied. It may be 
 washed with a hair pencil. 
 
 To clean paper hangings. 
 Cut into eight half quarters astale quartern loaf; 
 with one of these pieces, after having blown off all 
 the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of 
 a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, 
 holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly 
 downvvard with the crumb, about half a yard at each 
 stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is com- 
 pletely cleaned all round; then go again round with 
 the like sweeping stroke downward, always com- 
 mencing each successive course a little higher than 
 the upper stroke had extended till the bottom be 
 finished. This operation, if carefully performed, 
 will frequently make very old paper look almost 
 equal to new. Great caution must be used not by 
 any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt 
 cleaning it the cross or horrizontal way. The dir- 
 ty part of the bread too must be each time cut 
 away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all ne- 
 cessary. 
 
 To fry meats fyc. 
 Be always careful to keep the frying pan clean, 
 and see that it is properly tinned. When frying any 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 35 
 
 sort of fish, first dry them in a cloth, and then flour 
 them. Put into the pan plenty of dripping, or 
 hog's lard, and let it be boiling hot before putting 
 in the fish. Butter is not so good for the purpose 
 as it is apt to burn and to blacken, and make them 
 soft. When they are fried, put them in a dish or 
 hair sieve, to drain before they are sent to table. 
 Olive oil is the best article for frying, but it is ve- 
 ry expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is 
 dressed with it. Steaks and chops should be put 
 in when the liquor is hot, and done quickly, of a 
 light brown and turned often. Sausages should 
 be done gradually, which will prevent their burst- 
 ing. 
 
 To pot leg of beef. 
 Boil a leg of beef till the meat will come off* the 
 bone easily; then mix it with a cow heal, previous- 
 ly cut into thin pieces, and season the whole with 
 salt and spice; add a little of the liquor in which 
 the leg of beef was boiled, put it into a cheese-vat 
 or cullender or some other vessel that will let the 
 liquor run off; place a very heavy weight over it, 
 and it will be ready for use in a day or two. It may 
 be kept in souse made of bran boiled in water, with 
 the addition of a little vinegar. 
 
 To make a plain pudding. 
 Weigh three quarters of a pound of any odd 
 scraps of bread, whether crust or crumb, cut them 
 small, and pour on them a pint and a half of boil- 
 ing water, to soak them well. Let it stand till the 
 water is cool, then press it out, and mash the bread 
 smooth with the back of a spoon. Add to it, a 
 tea-spoonful of beaten ginger, some moist sugar, 
 
86 GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 and three quarters of a lb. of currants. Mix all 
 well together, and lay it in a pan well buttered. 
 Flatten it down with a spoon, and lay some pieces 
 of butter on the tod. Bake it in a moderate oven, 
 and serve it hot. When cold, it will turn out of 
 die pan, and eat like good plain cheese cakes. 
 
 A baked potato pudding. 
 Mix twelve ounces of potatoes boiled, skimmed, 
 and mashed, 1 oz. of suet, quarter of a pint of milk, 
 and 1 oz. of cheese grated fine; add as much boil- 
 ing water as is necessary to produce a due consis- 
 tence, and bake it in an earthen pan. 
 
 Tansy pudding. 
 Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of Jor- 
 dan almonds; put them into a stew pan, add a gill 
 of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a French roll, 
 some grated nutmeg, half a glass of brandy, two 
 tablespoonfuls of tansy juice, 3 oz. of fresh butter, 
 and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and 
 a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten, and when 
 cold, mix it; add the juice of a lemon, and 8 eggs 
 beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. 
 
 To make a Fast day's dish. 
 Boil eggs very hard, and cut a little from the 
 thick ends. Fry them in a pan, and take care to 
 keep them continually in motion; then place them 
 in the dish, pour over them some good fish or herb 
 gravy, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 To make a puff paste. 
 Take a quarter of a peck of flour, and rub it into 
 a pound of butter very fins. Make it up into a 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 31 
 
 light paste with cold water just stiff enough to work 
 it up. Then lay it out about as thick as a crown 
 piece; put a layer of butter all over, then sprinkle 
 on a little flour, double it up, and roll it out again. 
 Double and roll it with layers of butter three times, 
 and it will be fit for use. 
 
 To make a short crust. 
 Put six ounces of butter to eight ounces of flour, 
 and work them well together; then mix it up with 
 as little water as possible, so as to have it a stiffish 
 paste; then roll it out thin for use. 
 
 To make paste for tarts. 
 Put an ounce of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, to 
 one pound of fine flour. Make it into a etirT paste, 
 with a gill of boiling cream, and three ounces of 
 butter. Work it well, and roll it very thin. 
 
 To steam potatoes. 
 Put them clean washed, with their skins on, into 
 a steam saucepan, and let the water under them 
 be about half boiling, let them continue to boil 
 rather quickly, until they are done; if the water 
 once relaxes from its heat, the goodness of the po- 
 tato is sure to be affected, and to become soddened, 
 let the quality be ever so good. A too precipitate 
 boiling is equally disadvantageous; as the higher 
 parts of the surface of the root begin to crack and 
 open, while the centre continues unheated and un- 
 decomposed . 
 
 Of roots. 
 Cut carrots and parsnips to the length of a fin- 
 ger, and of much the same thickness; boil them 
 
 4 
 
38 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 till half done in water, put them into a stew pan 
 with small bits of ham, chopped parsley, and shal- 
 ots, pepper and salt, a glass of wine and broth; let 
 them stew slowly until the broth is reduced pretty 
 thick, and add the squeeze of a lemon when ready 
 to serve. For maigre, instead of ham, use mush- 
 rooms, and make a mixture beat up with yolks of 
 eggs and maigre broth. Celery is done much the 
 same, only it is cut smaller. If these roots are to 
 be served in a boat for sauce, boil them tender in 
 the broth pot, or in water, cut them into the desired 
 length, and serve with a good gravy or white sauce. 
 
 To make a rich plum cake. 
 
 Take one pound of fresh butter, one pound of 
 sugar, one pound and a half of flour, two pounds 
 of currants, a glass of brandy, one pound of sweet- 
 meats, two ounces of sweet almonds, ten eggs, a 
 quarter of an ounce of allspice, and a quarter of 
 an ounce of cinnamon. 
 
 Melt the butter to cream, and put in the sugar, 
 stir it till quite light, adding the allspice, and poun- 
 ded cinnamon; in a quarter of an hour take the 
 yolks of the eggs, and work them in, two or three 
 at a time; and the whites of the same must by this 
 time be beaten into a strong snow quite ready to 
 work in; as the paste must not stand to chill the 
 butter, or it will be heavy, work in the white grad- 
 ually: then add the orange peel, lemon and citron, 
 cut in fine stripes, and the currants, which must be 
 mixed in well, with the sweet almonds. Then add 
 the sifted flour and glass of brandy. Bake this 
 oake in a tin hoop in a hot oven for three hours, 
 and put twelve sheets of paper under it to keep it 
 from burning. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS SO 
 
 To make a rich seed cake. 
 Take a pound and a quarter of flour well dried,|, 
 a pound of butter, a pound of loaf sugar, beat am ' 
 sifted, eight eggs and two ounces of caraway seed , 
 one grated nutmeg, and its weight in cinnamon. 
 Beat the butter into a cream, put in the sugar, beat 
 the whites of the eggs and the yolks separately, 
 then mix them with the butter and sugar. Beat in 
 the flour, spices and seed, a little before sending it 
 away. Bake it two hours in a quick oven. 
 
 A plain pound cake. 
 Beat one pound of butter in an earthern pan un- 
 til it is like a fine thick cream, then beat in nine 
 whole eggs till quite light . Put in a glass of bran- 
 dy, a little lemon peel, shred fine, then work in a 
 pound and a quarter of flour; put it into the hoop 
 or pan and bake it for an hour . A good plum oak© 
 is mi .de the same with putting one pound and a 
 half of clean washed currants and half a pound of 
 candied lemon peel. 
 
 Beat the yolks of fifteen eggs for nearly half an 
 hour, with a whisk, mix well with them ten ounce* 
 of fine silled loaf sugar, put in half a pound of 
 ground rice, a little orange water or brandy, and 
 the rinds of two lemons grated, then add the whites 
 of seven eggs well beaten, and stir the whole to- 
 gether for a quarter of an hour. Put them into a 
 hoop and set them in a quick oven for half an hour 
 when they will be properly done. 
 
 To make plain gingerbread. 
 Mix three pounds of flour with four ounces ot 
 moist sugar, half an ounce of powdered ginger, and 
 
40 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 one pound and a quarter of warm treacle ; melt half 
 a pound of fresh butter in it; put it to the flour and 
 make it a paste; then form it into nuts or cakes, or 
 bake it in one cake. 
 
 To make cream cakes. 
 Beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, stir 
 it gently with a spoon lest the froth should fall, and 
 to every white of an egg grate the rinds of two lem- 
 ons; shake in gently a spoonfull of double refined 
 sugar sifted fine, lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, 
 and with a spoon drop the froth in little lumps on 
 it near each other. Sift a good quantity of sugar 
 over them, set them in the oven after the bread is 
 out, and close up the mouth of it, which will occa- 
 sion the froth to rise . As soOn as they are color- 
 ed they will be sufficiently baked; lay them by two 
 bottoms together on a sieve and dry them in a cool 
 oven. 
 
 To make common buns. 
 Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of 
 flour, a little salt, four ounces of sugar, a dessert 
 spoonful of caraways, and a teaspoonrul of ginger; 
 put some warm milk or cream to four table spoon- 
 fulls of yeast; mix all together into a paste, but not 
 too stiff ; cover it over and set it before the fire 
 an hour to rise, then make it into buns, put them 
 on a tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of 
 an hour, cover over with flannel, then brush them 
 with very warm milk and bake them of a nice brown 
 in a moderate oven. 
 
 Baked Custards. 
 Boil a pint of cream with some maco and cinna- 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 41 
 
 mon, and when it is cold, take four yolks of eggs, 
 a little rose water, sack, nutmeg and sugar, to taste; 
 mix them well and bake them. 
 
 Rice Custards. 
 Put a blade of mace, and a quartered nutmeg in- 
 to a quart of cream; boil and strain it, and add to 
 it some boiled rice and a little brandy. Sweeten it 
 to taste, stir it till it thickens, and serve it up in 
 cups or in a dish; it may be used either hot or cold. 
 
 To make apple cakes. 
 T?ke half a quartern of dough, roll it out thin: 
 spread equally over it five ounces each of coffee 
 and sugar, a little nutmeg or allspice, and two oz. 
 of butter; then fold and roll it again two or three 
 times, to mix well the ingredients. Afterwards roll 
 it out thin, and spread over it four rather large ap- 
 ples, pared, cored, and chopped small ; fold it up, 
 and roll until mixed. Let it stand to rise after. 
 Haifa pound of butter may be added. 
 
 Sponge biscuits. 
 Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half an hour; 
 then put in one and a half pounds of beaten sifted 
 sugar, and whisk it till it rises in bubbles; beat the 
 whites to a strong froth, and whisk them well with 
 the sugar and yolks, work in fourteen ounces of 
 flour, with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake 
 them in tin mould buttered, in a quick oven, for an 
 hour; before they are baked, sift a little fine sugar 
 over them. 
 
 To make fancy biscuits. 
 Take one pound of almonds, one pound of sugar, 
 4* 
 
41 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 and some orange flower water. Pounct Che al- 
 monds very fine, and sprinkle them with orange 
 flower water; when they are perfectly smooth to 
 the touch, put them in a small pan, with flour sifted 
 through a silk sieve; put the pan on a slow fire, 
 and dry the paste till it does not stick to the fin- 
 gers; move it well from the bottom to prevent its 
 burning; then take it off, and roll it into small round 
 fillets, to make knots, rings, &.c. and cut into vari- 
 ous shapes; make an iceing of different colours, 
 dip one side of them in it, and set them in it, and 
 set them on wire gratings to drain. They may be 
 varied by strewing over them colored pistachios, or 
 colored ahnond9, according to fancy. 
 
 Black currant jelly. 
 Put to ten quarts of ripe dry black currants, one 
 quart of water; put them in a large stew-pot, tie 
 paper close over them, and set them for two hours 
 in a cool oven. Squeeze them through a fine cloth, 
 and add to every quart of juice a pound and a half 
 of loaf sugar broken into small pieces. Stir it till 
 ihe sugar is melted, when it boils, skim it quite 
 clcam. Boil it pretty quick over a clear fire, till 
 it jellies, which is known by dipping a skimmer in- 
 to the jelley and holding it in the air; when it hangs 
 to the spoon in a drop,~it is done. If the jelley is 
 boiled too long, it will loose its flavour and shrink 
 very much. Pour it into pots, cover them with 
 brandy papers, and keep them in a dry place. H^d 
 and white jellies are made in the same way . 
 
 Raspberry cream. 
 Rub a quart of raspberries through a hair sieve, 
 and take out the seed?, and mix it v. HI with cream; 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 43 
 
 n it with sugar to your taste, then put into a 
 ug, and raise a froth with a chocolate mill, 
 j froth rises take it off with a spoon, and lay 
 i a hair sieve. When there is as much froth 
 ited, put what cream remains in a deep china 
 and pour the frothed cream upon it, as high 
 as vill lie on. 
 
 Strmvberry jam. 
 Bruise very fine some scarlet strawberries, gath- 
 ered when quite ripe, and put to them a little juice 
 of red currants. Beat and sift their weight in su- 
 gar, strew it over them, and put them into a pre- 
 serving pan. Set them over a clear slow fire, skim 
 them, then boil them twenty minutes, and put them 
 into glasses. 
 
 Raspberry jam. 
 Mash a quantity of fine ripe dry raspberries, 
 strew on them their own weight of loaf sugar, and 
 half their weight of white currant juice.* Boil them 
 half an hour over a clear slow fire, skim them well, 
 and put them into pots or glasses; lie them down 
 with brandy papers, and keep them dry. Strew on 
 the sugar as quick as possible after the berries are 
 gathered, and in order to preserve their flavour 
 they must not stand long before boiling them. 
 
 To salt hams. 
 For three hams, pound and mix together half a 
 peck of salt, half an ounce of salt prunella, three 
 ounces of salt petre, and four pounds of coarse 
 salt; rub the hams well with this, and lay what is 
 to spare over them, let them lie three days, then 
 hang them up. Take Hie pickle in which the hams 
 
44 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 were, put water enough to cover the hams wi 
 more common salt, till it will bear an egg, then bo 
 and skim it well, put it in the salting tub, and th 
 next morning put in the hams ; keep them dowi 
 like pickled pork; in a fortnight take them out of 
 the liquor, rub them well with brine, and hang them 
 up to dry. 
 
 To pickle in brine. 
 A good brine is made of bay salt and water, 
 thoroughly saturated, so that some of the salt re- 
 mains undissolved; into this brine the substance to 
 be preserved is plunged, and kept covered with it. 
 Among vegetables, French beans, artichokes, ol- 
 ives, and the different sorts of samphire, may be 
 thus preserved, and among animals, herrings. 
 
 To bottle damsons. 
 Put damsons, before they are too ripe, into wide 
 mouthed bottles, and cork them down tight; then 
 put them into a moderately heated oven, and about 
 three hours more will do them; observe that the 
 oven is not too hot, otherwise it will make the fruit 
 fly. All kinds of fruits that are bottled may be 
 done in the same way, and they will keep two years; 
 after they are done, they must be put away with 
 the mouth downward, in a cool place, to keep them 
 from fermenting. 
 
 To preserve grapes. 
 Take close bunches whether white or red, not too 
 ripe, and lay them in a jar. Put to them a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar candy, and fill the jar with 
 common brandy. Tie them up close with a Mad- 
 der, and set them in a dry place, 
 
<;enujl\e receipts. 45 
 
 To dry cherries. 
 Having stoned the desired quantity of morello 
 cherries, put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar to 
 every pound; beat and sift it over the cherries, and 
 let them stand all night. Take them out of their 
 sugar, and to every pound of sugar, put two spoons- 
 ful of water. Boil and skim it well, then put in 
 the cherries; boil the sugar over them, and next 
 morning strain them, and to every pound of syrup 
 put half a pound more sugar; boil it till it is a little 
 thicker, then put in the cherries and let them boil 
 gently. The next day strain them, put them in a 
 stove, and turn them every day till they are dry. 
 
 To preserve, strawberries luhole. 
 Take an equal weight of fruit and double refin- 
 ed sugar, lay the former in a large dish, and sprin- 
 kle half the sugar in fine powder; give a gentle 
 shake to the dish, that the sugar may touch the un- 
 der side of the fruit. Next day make a thin syrup 
 with the remainder of the sugar; and allow one 
 pint of red currant juice to every three pounds of 
 strawberries; in this simmer them until they are 
 sufficiently jellied. Choose the largest scarlets, 
 not dead ripe. 
 
 To keep gooseberries. 
 Put an ounce of roche alum beat very fine, into 
 a large pan of boiling hard water; place a few 
 gooseberries at the bottom of a hair sieve, and hold 
 them in the water till they turn white. Then take 
 out the sieve, and spread the gooseberries between 
 two cloihs; put more into the sieve, then repeat it 
 till they are all done. Put the water into a glazed 
 pot until the next day, then put the gooseberries 
 
46 GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 jnto wide mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked 
 and broken ones, pour the water clear out of the 
 pot, and fill the bottles with it, cork them loosely 
 and let them stand a fortnight. If they rise to the 
 corks, take them out and let them stand two or 
 three days uncorked, then cork them close again 
 
 To make cream of roses, 
 Take one pound of oil of sweet almonds, one 
 ounce of spermaceti, one ounce of white wax, one 
 pint of rose water, and two drachms of Malta rose 
 or nerolet essence. Put the oil, spermaceti, and 
 wax, into a well glazed pipkin, over a clear fire, 
 and when melted, pour in the rose water by de- 
 grees, and keep heating, till the compound becomes 
 like pomatum. Now add the essence, and then 
 put the cream into small pots or jars, which must 
 be well covered with pieces of bladder, and soft 
 skin leather. 
 
 Pearl water for the face. 
 Put half a pound of the best Spanish oil soap, 
 scraped very fine, into a gallon of boiling water, 
 stir it well for some time, and let it stand till cold. 
 Add a quart of rectified spirit of wine, and half an 
 ounce of oil of rosemary; stir them again. This 
 compound liquid, when put up in proper phials, in 
 Italy, is called tincture of pearls. It is an excel- 
 lent cosmetic for removing freckles from the face> 
 and for improving the complexion. 
 
 Common almond paste 
 To make this paste, take six pounds of fresh al 
 monds, which blanch and beat in a stone mortar, 
 with a sufficient quantity of rose water. Now add 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 47 
 
 a pound of finely drained honey, and mix the whole 
 well together. This paste, which is exceedingly 
 good for the hands, is to be put into small pots for 
 sale. If this paste gets dry, rub it up on a marble 
 slab with rose water. To prevent this dryness, 
 put about half a teaspoonful of this water on the top 
 of each pot, before tying up. 
 
 Jin astringent for the teeth. 
 Take of fresh conserve of roses two ounces, the 
 juice of half a sour lemon, a little very rough clar- 
 et, and six ounces of coral tooth powder. Make 
 them into a paste, which put up in small pots; and 
 if it dry by standing, moisten with lemon juice and 
 wine as before*. 
 
 To prevent the tooth ache. 
 Rub well the teeth and gums with a hard tooth- 
 brush, using the flowers of sulphur as a tooth pow- 
 der, every night on going to bed; and if it is done 
 after dinner it will be best: this is an excellent pre- 
 servative to the teeth, and void of any unpleasant 
 smell. 
 
 A radical cure for the tooth ache. 
 Use as a tooth powder the Spanish snuff called 
 Sibella, and it will clean the teeth as well as any 
 other powder, and totally prevent the tooth-ache; 
 and make a regular practice of washing behind the 
 ears with cold water every morning, the remedy is 
 infallible. 
 
 To make rose lip salve. 
 Put eight ounces of the best olive oil into a wide 
 mouthed bottle, add two ounces of the small parts 
 
43 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 of alkanet root. Stop up the bottle, and set it in 
 the sun; shake it often, until it be of a beautiful 
 crimson. Now strain the oil off very clear from 
 the roots, and add to it, in a glazed pipkin, three 
 ounces of very fine white wax, and the same quan- 
 tity of fresh clean mutton suet. Deer suet is too J 
 brittle, and also apt to turn yellow. Melt this by a 
 slow fire, and perfume it when taken ofT, with forty 
 drops of oil of rhodium, or of lavender. When 
 cold put it into small gallipots, or rather whilst in a 
 liquid state. 
 
 The common way is to make this salve up into 
 small cakes; but in that form the colour is apt to 
 be impaired. 
 
 This salve never fails to cure chopped or sore 
 lips, if applied pretty freely at bed time, in the 
 course of a day or two at farthest . 
 
 To swcdcn the breath. 
 Take two ounces of terra japonica; half an ounce 
 of sugar candy, both in powder. Grind one drachm 
 of the best ambergris with ten grains of pure musk; 
 and dissolve a quarter of an ounce of clean gum 
 tragaeanth in two ounces of orange flour water. 
 Mix all together, so as to form a paste, which roll 
 into pieces of the thickness of a straw. Cut these 
 into pieces, and lay them in clean paper. This is 
 an excellent perfume for those whose breath is dis- 
 agreeable. 
 
 Excellent perfume for gloves. 
 
 Take of damask or rose scent, half an ounce, 
 
 the spirit of cloves and mace, each a drachm ; 
 
 frankincense, one quarter of an ounce. Mix them 
 
 ♦ogether, and lay them in papers, and when hard, 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 49 
 
 press the gloves; they will take the scent in twen- 
 ty-four hours, and hardly ever lose it. 
 
 To perfume clothes. 
 Take of oven-dried best cloves, cedar and rhu- 
 barb wood, each one ounce, beat them to a powder 
 and sprinkle them in a box or cjiest, where they 
 will create a most beautiful scent and preserve the 
 apparrel against moths. 
 
 To preserve brass ornaments. 
 Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lackered, may 
 be cleaned in the same way, and a fine colour may 
 be given to them by two simple processes. The 
 first is to beat sal ammoniac into a fine powder, 
 then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on 
 the ornaments, which must be heated over char- 
 coal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting. The 
 second is to wash the brass work with roche alum 
 boiled in strong ley, in the proportion of an ounce 
 to a pint; when dry it must be rubbed with fine 
 tripoli. Either of these processes will give to 
 brass the brilliancy of gold. 
 
 To clean gold lace. 
 Gold lace is easily cleaned and restored to its 
 original brightness by rubbing it with a soft brush 
 dipped in roch alum burnt, sifted to a very fin© 
 powder. 
 
 To male cement for metals. 
 
 Take of gum mastic, 10 grains, — rectified spirit 
 
 of wine, 2 drachms. Add 2 ounces of strong 
 
 isinglass glue, made with brandy, and 10 grains of 
 
 the true gum ammoniac. Dissolve all together, 
 
 5 
 
50 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 and keep it stopped in a phial. When intended to» 
 be used, set it in warm water. 
 
 To take out spots of ink. 
 As soon as the accident happens, wet the place 
 with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and 
 the best hard white soap. 
 
 To make red sealing wax. 
 
 Take of shell-lac, well powdered, two parts, of 
 rosin and vermillion, powdered, each, 1 part. Mix 
 them well together and melt them over a gentle 
 fire, and when the ingredients seem thoroughly 
 incorporated, work the wax into sticks. Where 
 shell-lac cannot be procured, seed-lac may be sub- 
 stituted for it. 
 
 The quantity of vermillion may be diminished 
 without any injury to the sealing wax, where it is 
 not required to be of the highest and brightest 
 red colour; and the rest should be of the whitest 
 kind, as that improves the effect of the vermillion. 
 
 Black sealing war. 
 Proceed as directed for the red wax, only in* 
 stead of the vermillion substitute the best ivor* 
 black. 
 
A COMPLETE SYSTEM 
 
 OF 
 
 DYEING, 
 
 IN ALL ITS VARIETIES. 
 
 1? 
 
 To -prepare mordants. 
 DriNG is a chemical process, and consists in 
 combining a certain colouring matter with fibres 
 of cloth. The facility with which cloth imbibes 
 a dye, depends upon two circumstances; the union 
 of the cloth and the dye-stuff, and the union of 
 the dye-stuff, or dyeing material, and the fluid in 
 which it is dissolved. Wool unites with almost all 
 colouring matters, silk in the next degree, cotton 
 considerably less, and linnen the least of all. To 
 dye cotton or linen, the dye-stuff, or colouring 
 material, should, in many cases, be dissolved in a 
 substance for which it has a weaker connexion 
 than with the solvent employed in the dying of 
 wool or silk. Thus we may use the colour called 
 oxide of iron, dissolved in sulphuric acid, to dye 
 wool; but to dye cotton and linen, it is necessary 
 to dissolve it in acetous acid. Were it possible to 
 procure a sufficient number of colouring substan- 
 ces, having a strong affinity for cloths, to answer 
 all the purposes of dyeing, that art would be ex- 
 ceedingly simple and easy. But this is by no 
 means the case. This difficulty has, however, 
 been obviated by a very ingenious contrivance. 
 Some other substance is employed which strongly 
 unites with the cloth and the colouring matter. 
 This substance, therefore, is previously combined 
 with the cloth, which is then dipped into a solution 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 c tntaming the colour. The colour then combines 
 with the intermediate substance, which being iirm- 
 ly combined with the cloth, secures the perma- 
 nence of the dye. Substances employed for this 
 purpose are denominated mordants. 
 
 To choose and apply them. 
 The most important part of dyeing is, therefore, 
 the choice and application of mcrdanls; as upon 
 them, the permanency of almost every dye de- 
 pends. Mordants must be previously dissolved in 
 some liquid, which has a weaker union with the 
 mordants than the cloth has; and the cloth must 
 then be steeped in this solution, so as to saturate 
 itself with the mordant. The most important, and 
 most generally used mordant is alumine. It is used 
 cither in a state of common alum, in which it is 
 combined with sulphuric acid, or in that state cal- 
 led acetite of alumine. 
 
 Use of alum as a mordant. 
 Alum, to make a mordant, is dissolved in water, 
 and very frequently, a quantity of tartrate of potass 
 is dissolved with it. Into this solution woolen cloth 
 is put, and kept in it till it has absorbed as much 
 alumine as is necessary. It is then taken out, and 
 for the most part washed and dried. It is now a 
 good deal heavier than it was before, owing to the 
 alum that has combined with it. 
 
 Jlcelile of alumine. 
 Is prepared as a mordant by pouring acetite of 
 lead into a solution of alum. This mordant is em- 
 ployed for cotton and linen. It answers for these 
 much better than alum; the stuff is more easily 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. to 
 
 saturated with alumine, and takes, in consequence, 
 a richer, and more permanent colour 
 
 White oxide of tin. 
 
 This mordant has enabled the moderns greatly 
 to surpass many of the ancients, in the fineness of 
 their colours; and even to equal the famous Tyrian 
 purple; and by means of it scarlet, the brightest 
 of all colours is produced. It is the white oxide 
 of tin, alone, which is the real mordant. 
 
 Tin is used as a mordant in three states; dis- 
 solved in nitro-muriatic acid, in acetous acid, and 
 in a mixture of sulphuric and muriatic acids: but 
 nitro-inuriate of tin is the common mordant used by 
 dyers. They prepare it, by dissolving tin in diluted 
 nitric acid, to which a certain proportion of com- 
 mon salt, or sal ammoniac is added. 
 
 When the nitro muriate of tin is to be used as a 
 mordant, it is dissolved in a large quantity of wa-ter, 
 and the cloth is dipped in the solution, and allowed 
 to remain till sufficiently saturated. It is then tak- 
 en out, washed and dried. Tartar is usually dis- 
 solved in the water along with the nitro muriate. 
 
 Red oxide of iron. 
 This is also used as a mordant in dyeing; it has 
 a very strong affinity for all kinds of cloth, of 
 which the permanency of red iron-spots, or iron- 
 moulds on linen and cotton is a sufficient proof. 
 As a mordant it is used in two states: in that of 
 sulphate of iron, or copperas, and that of acetite 
 of iron. The first, or coper as, is commonly used 
 for tvool. The copperas is dissolved in water, and 
 the cloth dipped into it. It may be used also for 
 cotton f but in most cases acetite of iron is prefer- 
 5* 
 
64 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 red, which is prepared by dissolving , iron, or its 
 oxide, in vinegar, sour beer, or pyroligneous acid, 
 and the longer it is kept the better. 
 
 Tan, fyc. 
 
 Tan is very frequently employed as a mordant, 
 An infusion of nut-galls, or of sumach, or of any 
 other substance containing tan, is made in water, 
 and the cloth is dipped in this infusion, and allowed 
 to remain till it has absorbed a sufficient quantity. 
 Tan is often employed also, along with other mor- 
 dants, to produce a compound mardant. Oil is al- 
 so used for the same purpose, in dying cotton and 
 linen. The mordants with which tan is most fre- 
 quently combined, are alumine, and oxide of iron. 
 
 Besides these mordants, there are several other 
 substances frequently used as auxiliaries, either to 
 facilitate the combination of the mordant with the 
 cloth or to alter the shade of colour; the chief of 
 these are, tartar, acetate of lead, common salt, sal 
 ammoniac, sulphate of copper, &c. 
 
 Mordants not only render the dye permanent, 
 but have also considerable influence on the colour 
 produced. The same colouring matter produces 
 very different dyes, according as the mordant is 
 changed. Suppose, for instance, thai the colour- 
 ing matter is cochineal; if we use the alumin< 
 mordant, the cloth will acquire a crimson colour; 
 but the oxide of iron produces with it, a black. 
 
 In dyeing, then, it is not only necessary io pro 
 cure a mordant which has* a sufficiently strong af- 
 finity for the colouring matter and cloth, and a 
 colouring matter which possesses the wi shed-for 
 colour in perfection; but we must procure a mor- 
 and a mlouring matt^j i nature, that 
 
GENUINE /E1PTS 55 
 
 when combined together, they shall possess the 
 wished-for colour in perfection; and even a great 
 variety of colours may be produced with a single 
 dye-stuff, provided we change the mordant suffi- 
 ciently. 
 
 To determine the effects of various salts or mordants 
 
 on colours. 
 
 The due of madder. 
 
 For a madder red on woollens, the best quantity 
 of madder is one half of the weight of the wool- 
 lens that are to be dyed; the best proportion of 
 of salts to be used is five parts of alum and one 
 of red tartar for sixteen parts of the stuff. 
 
 A variation in the proportion of the salts, wholly 
 alters the colour that the madder naturally gives. 
 If the alum is lessened, and the tartar increased, 
 the dye proves a red cinnamon. If the alum be 
 entirely omitted, the red wholly disappears, and a 
 durable tawny cinnamon is produced. 
 
 If woollens are boiled in weak pearl ash and wa- 
 ter, the greater part of the colour is destroyed 
 A solution of soap discharges part of the colour, 
 and leaves the remaining more beautiful. 
 
 Volatile alkalies heighten the red colour of the 
 madder, but they make the dye fugitive 
 
 The dye of logwood. 
 Volatile alknlies salts or acids incline this to 
 purple; the vegetable and nitrous acids render it 
 pale; the vitriolic and marine acids deepen it. 
 
 Lime water, 
 In dyeing browns or blacks, especially browns, 
 lime water is found to be a good corrective, as also 
 
*6 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 an alterative, when the goods are not come to the 
 shade required; but practice alone can shew it* 
 utility ; it answers for either woollens, silks, or cot- 
 tons. 
 
 To render colours holding. 
 
 Browns and blues, or shades from them, require 
 no preparation; but reds and yellows, either of 
 silk, cotton, or woollen, require a preparation to 
 make them receive the dye, and hold it fast when 
 it has received it. Alum and tartar, boiled togeth- 
 er, when cold, form a mastic, within the pores of 
 the substance, that serves to retain the dye, and 
 reflect the colour in a manner transparently. 
 
 Almost all browns are deemed fast and holding 
 colours, without any preparation: the dyeing ma- 
 terials containing in themselves a sufficient degree 
 of astringent quality to retain their own colours. 
 Many reds are also equally holding, but none more 
 so than those made with madder on woollens pre- 
 pared with aluii and tarter. A very fast red is 
 also made with Brazil wood, by boiling the woollen 
 in alum and tartar, and suffering the cloth to re- 
 main several days in a bag kept moist by the pre- 
 paration liquor. The cause of the solidity of the 
 colour from Brazil wood dyed alter this method, 
 arises from the alum and tartar masticating itself 
 within the pores of the wool in quite a solid state. 
 
 There is not a drug used in the whole art of dye- 
 ing, but may be made a permanent dye, by rinding 
 out a salt, or solution of some metal, that, when 
 once dissolved by acids, or by boiling water, wilt 
 neither be affected by the air, nor be dissolved by 
 moisture. Such are alum and tartar, the solution 
 of tin, &.c. But these salts and solutions do not 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS 57 
 
 answer with all ingredients that are used in dyeing. 
 
 To purchase dyeing materials. 
 The names of the principal dyeing materials are 
 alum, argol, or tartar, green copperas, verdigris, 
 blue vitriol, roche alum, American or quercitron, 
 and oak bark, fenugreek, logwood, old and young 
 fustic, Brazil wood, braziletto, camwood, barwood, 
 and other red woods, peach wood, sumach, gall, 
 weld, madder of 3 or 4 sorts, safflower, savory, 
 green wood, annatto, tumeric, archil, cudbear, co- 
 chineal, lac cake, lac dye, and indigo. The whole 
 may be purchased of druggists and colourmen. 
 
 To dye wool and woollen cloths of a blue colour. 
 
 Dissolve one part of indigo in four parts of con- 
 centrated sulphuric acid; to the solution, add one 
 part of dry carbonate of potass, and then diluto it 
 with eight times its weight of water. The cloth 
 must be boiled for an hour in a solution, containing 
 5 parts of alum, and 3 of tartar, for every 32 parts 
 ojf cloth. It is then to be thrown into a water-bath 
 previously prepared, containing a greater or small- 
 er proportion of diluted sulphate of indigo, accord- 
 ing to the shade which the cloth is intended to re- 
 ceive. In this bath it must be boiled till it has ac- 
 quired the wished for colour. 
 
 The only colouring matters employed in dyeing 
 blue, are woad and indigo. 
 
 Indigo has a very strong affiinity for wool, silk, 
 cotton, and linen. Every kind of cloth, there- 
 fore, may be dyed with it, without the assistance 
 of any mordant whatever. The colour thus indu- 
 ced is very permanent. But indigo can only be 
 applied to cloth in a state of solution, and the only 
 
63 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 ■olvent known is sulphuric acid. The sulphate of 
 indigo is often used to dye wool and silk blue, and 
 ia known by the name of Saxon blue. 
 
 It is not the only solution of that pigment em- 
 ployed in dyeing. By far the most common meth- 
 od is, to deprive indigo of its blue colour, and re- 
 duce it to green, and then to dissolve it in water 
 by means of alkalies. Two different methods are 
 employed for this purpose. The first is, to mix 
 with indigo a solution of green oxide of iron, and 
 different metalic sulphurates. If, therefore, indi- 
 go, lime, and green sulphate of iron, are mixed to- 
 gether in water, the indigo gradually loses its blue 
 colour, becomes green, and is dissolved. The 
 second method is, to mix the indigo in water, with 
 certain vegetable substances wich readily undergo 
 fermentation; the indigo is dissolved by means of 
 quick lime or alkali, which is added to the solution. 
 
 The first of these methods is usually followed 
 in dyeing cotton and linen; the second, in dyeing 
 wool and silk. 
 
 In the dyeing of wool, woad and bran are com- 
 monly employed as vegetable ferments, and lime 
 as the solvent of the green base of the indigo. 
 Woad itself contains a colouring matter precisely 
 similar to indigo; and by following the common 
 process, indigo may be extracted from it. In the 
 usual state of woad, when purchased by the dyer, 
 the indigo, which it contains, is probably not far 
 from the state of green pollen. Its quantity in 
 woad is but small, and it is mixed with a great 
 proportion of other vegetable matter. 
 
 When the cloth is first taken out of the vat, it is 
 of a green colour; but it soon becomes blue. It 
 ought to be carefully washed, to carry off the un- 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 09 
 
 combined particles. This solution of indigo is li- 
 able to two inconveniences,: first, it is apt some- 
 times to run too fast into the putrid fermentation; 
 this may be known by the putrid vapours which it 
 •exhales, and by the disappearing of the green col- 
 our. In this state it would soon destroy the indigo 
 altogether. The inconvenience is remedied by 
 adding more lime, which has the property of mod- 
 erating the putrescent tendency. Secondly, some- 
 times the fermentation goes on too languidly. 
 This defect is remedied by adding more bran, or 
 woad, in order to diminish the proportion of thick 
 lime. 
 
 To make chemic blue and green. 
 
 Chemic for light blues and greens, on silk, cot- 
 ton, or woollen, and for cleaning and whitening 
 cottons, is made by the following process: — 
 
 Take 1 lb. of the best oil of vitriol, which pour 
 upon 1 ounce of the best Spanish flora indigo, well 
 pounded and sifted: add to this, after it has been 
 well stirred, a small lump of common pearlash as 
 big as a pea, or from that to the size of 2 peas, 
 this will immediately raise a great fermentation, 
 and cause the indigo to dissolve in minuter and 
 finer particles than otherwise. As soon as this 
 fermentation ceases, put it into a bottle tightly 
 corked, and it may be used the next day. Ob- 
 serve, if more than the quantity prescribed of 
 pearlash should be used, it will deaden and sirily 
 the colour. 
 
 Chemic for green, as above for blue, is made 
 by only adding one-fourth more of the oil of vitriol. 
 
 If the chemic is to be used for woollen, East In- 
 dia indigo will answer the purpote even better than 
 
60 
 
 Spanish indigo, and at one quarter of ihe price; 
 but the oil of vitriol ig good lor both, 
 
 To make u solution of tin in aqua regia. 
 
 Mix together 8 ounces of filtered river water,, 
 and 8 ounces of double aqua fortis; add gradually 
 half an ounce of salammoniac dissolved piece by 
 piece, and 2 drachms of salt petre. Then take 1 
 ounce of refined block tin: put it into an iron pan, 
 and set it over the fi«e; when melted, hold it 4 or 5 
 feet over the vessel, and drop it into water, so as 
 to let it fall in pieces. 
 
 Next put a small piece of this granulated tin into- 
 the above aqua-regia, and when the last piece dis- 
 appears, add more gradually till the whole is mixed . 
 mind and keep it firmly corked. When finished 
 it will produce a most excellent yellow, though 
 should it fail in that respect, it will not be the 
 worse for use; keep it cool, as heat will injure and 
 even spoil it. 
 
 To make muriate of tin 
 Take 8 ounces of muriatic acid, and dissolve in 
 it, by slow degrees half an ounce of granulated 
 tin; when this is done pour off the clear liquid in- 
 to a bottle and weaken it, if required, with pure fil- 
 tered river water ; 
 
 To determine the effect of various waters on different 
 colours. 
 Snow water contains a little muriate of lime, 
 and some slight traces of nitrate of lime; rain 
 water has the same salts in a larger quantity, and 
 also carbonic acid; spring water most frequently 
 contains carbonate of lime, muriate of lime, muri - 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. &| 
 
 ate of soda, or carbonate of soda. River water 
 lias the same substances, but in less abundance . 
 Well water contains sulphate of lime or nitrate of 
 pot-ash besides the above-named salts. Should the 
 water contain a salt, or a mineral acid, in the first 
 instance, an acid will be requisite to neutralize it, 
 and in the second, an alkali. Thus waters of any 
 quality may be saturated by their opposites, and 
 rendered neutral. 
 
 To discharge colours. 
 The dyers generally put all coloured silks which 
 are to be discharged, into a copper in which "half 
 a pound or a pound of white soap has been dissol- 
 ved. They are then boiled off, and when the cop- 
 per begins to be too full of colour, the silks are 
 taken out and rinsed in warm water. In the in- 
 terim a fresh solution of soap is to be added to the 
 copper, and then proceed as before till all the 
 colour is discharged. For those colours that arc 
 wanted to be effectually discharged, such as greys, 
 cinnamons, &c. when soap will not do, tartar must 
 be used. / For slate colours, greenish drabs, olive 
 drabs, &.c. oil of vitriol in warm water must be 
 used; if other colours, roche alum must be boiled 
 in the copper, then cooled down and the silks en- 
 tered and boiled off, recollecting to rinse them be- 
 fore they are again dyed. A small quantity of 
 muriatic acid, diluted in warm water, must be used 
 to discharge some fast colours; the goods must be 
 afterwards well rinsed in warm and cold water to 
 prevent any injury to the stalk. 
 
 To discharge cinnamons, greys, fyc.vfoen dyed too full. 
 Take some tartar, pounded in a mortar, sift it 
 
62 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 into a bucket, then pour over it some boiling wa-r * 
 
 ter. The silks, &c. may then be run through the I 
 
 clearest of this liquor, which will discharge the i 
 
 colour; but if the dye does not take on agaii. 1 
 
 evenly, more tartar may be added, and the goods \ 
 run through as before. 
 
 To re-dye or change the colours of gcmnents, S$c. 
 
 The change of colour depends upon the ingre- 
 dients with which the garments have been dyed. 
 Sometimes when these have been well cleaned, 
 moro. dying stuff must be added, which will afford 
 the colour intended; and sometimes the colour al- 
 ready on the cloth must be discharged and the ar- 
 ticles re-dyed. 
 
 Every colour in nature will dye black, whether 
 blue, yellow, red or brown, and black will always 
 dye black again. All colours will take the same 
 colour again which they already possess; and blues 
 can be made green or black: green may be brown, 
 and brown green, and every colour on re-dyeing 
 will take a darker tint than that at first. 
 
 Yellows, browns, and blues, are not easily dis- 
 charged; maroons, reds, of some kinds, olives, &.c. 
 may be discharged. 
 
 For maroons, a small quantity of roche alum 
 may be boiled in a copper, and when it is dissolv- 
 ed, put in the goods, keep them boiling, and prob- 
 ably, in a few minutes, enough of it will be dis- 
 charged to take the colour intended. 
 
 Olives, greys, Slc. are discharged by putting in 
 two or three table spoonfuls, more or less, of oil of 
 vitriol: then put in the garment, &c. and boil, and 
 it will become white. N If chemic green, either 
 alum, pearl-ash, or soap, will discharge it off to 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 05 
 
 the yellow; this yellow may mostly be boiled off 
 with soap, if it has received a preparation for tak- 
 ing the chemic blue. Muriatic acid used at a hand 
 heat will discharge most colours. A black may be 
 dyed a maroon, claret, green or a dark brown; and 
 it often happens that black is dyed claret, green, 
 or dark brown; but green is the principal colour 
 into which black is changed. 
 
 To alum silks. 
 Silk should be alumect cold, for when it is alum- 
 ed hot, it is deprived of a great part of its lustre. 
 The alum liquor should always be strong for silks, 
 as they take the dye more readily afterwards. 
 
 To dye silk blue. 
 Silk is dyed blue by a ferment of six parts of 
 bran, six of indigo, six of potass, and one of mad- 
 der. To dye it of a dark blue, it must previously 
 receive what is called a ground-colour; a red dye- 
 stuff, called archil, is used for this purpose. 
 
 To dye cotton and linen blue. 
 Cotton and linen are dyed blue by a solution of 
 one part of indigo, one part of green sulphate of 
 iron, and two parts ot quick-lime 
 
 Yellow dyes. 
 The principal colouring matters for dyeing yel- 
 low, are weld, fustic, and quercitron bark. Yel- 
 low colouring matters have too weak an affinity 
 for cloth, to produce permanent colours without 
 the use of mordants. Cloth, therefore, before it 
 is dyed yellow, is always prepared by soaking it in 
 aJumino. Oxide of tin is sometimes used when 
 
U GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 very fine yellows are wanting. Tan is often em- 
 ployed as subsidiary to alumine, and in order to 
 fix it more copiously on cotton and linen. Tartar 
 is also used as an auxiliary, to brighten the colour; 
 and muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, and even 
 the sulphate of iron, to render the shade deeper. 
 The yellow dye by means of fustic is more perma- 
 nent, but not so beautiful as that given by weld, or 
 quercitron. As it is permanent, and not much in- 
 jured by acids, it is often used in dyeing compound 
 colours, where a yellow is required. The mordant 
 is alumine. When the mordant is oxide of iron, 
 fustic dyes a good permanent drab colour. Weld, 
 and quercitron bark yield nearly the same kind of 
 colour; but the bark yields colouring matter in 
 greater abundance and is cheaper than weld. The 
 method of using each of these dye-stuffs is nearly 
 the same. 
 
 To dye woollens yellow. 
 Wool may be dyed yellow by the following pro- 
 cess; let it be boiled tor an hour or more, with 
 above one-sixth of its weight of alum., dissolved 
 in a sufficient quantity of water as a mordant. It 
 is then to be plunged, without being rinsed, into a 
 bath of warm water, containing as much quercit- 
 ron bark as equals the weight of the alum em- 
 ployed as a mordant. The cloth is t«o be turned 
 through the boiling liquid, till it has acquired the 
 intended colour. Then, a quantity of clean pow- 
 dered chalk, equal to the hundredth part of the 
 weight of the cloth, is to be stirred in, and the op- 
 eration of dyeing continued for eight or ten min- 
 utes longer. By this method a pretty deep and 
 lively yellow may be given. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. $5 
 
 To dye silks yellow. 
 Silk may be dyed of different shades of yellow, 
 either by weld or quercitron bark, but the last is 
 the cheapest, of the two. The proportion should 
 be from one to two parts of bark, to 12 parts of 
 silk, according to the shade. The bark, tied up 
 in a bag, should be put into the dyeing vessel, 
 whilst the water which it contains is cold; and 
 when it has acquired the heat of about 100 degrees, 
 the silk, having been previously alumed, should be 
 dipped in, and continued, till it assumes the wish- 
 ed-lbr colour. When the shade is required to be 
 deep, a little chalk, or pearl-ash should be added 
 towards the end of the operation. 
 
 To dye linens and cottons yellow. 
 
 The mordant should be acetate of alumine, pre- 
 pared by dissolving one part of acetate of lead, 
 and three parts of alum, in a sufficient quantity of 
 water. This solution should be heated to the 
 temperature of 100 degrees: the cloth should be 
 soaked in it for two hours, then wrung out and 
 dried. The soaking may be repeated, and the 
 cloth again dried as before. It is then to be bare- 
 ly wetted with lime-water, and afterwards dried. 
 The soaking in the acetate of alumine may be 
 again repeated; and if the shade of yellow is re^ 
 quired to be very bright and durable, the alter- 
 nate wetting with lime-water and soaking in the 
 mordant may be repeated three or four times. 
 
 The dyeing-hath is prepared by putting 12 or 18 
 parts of quercitron bark (according to the depth 
 of the shade required,) tied up in a bag, into a 
 sufficient quantity of cold water. Into this bath 
 the cloth is to be put, and turned in it for an hour, 
 6* 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 while its temperature is gradually raised to about 
 120 degrees. It is then to be brought to a boiling 
 heat, and the cloth allowed to remain in it only for 
 a few minutes. If it is kept long at a boiling heat, 
 the yellow acquires a shade of brown 
 
 To fix a fine mineral yelloiv upon wool, silk, cotton, 
 hemp, fyc. 
 Mix one pound of sulphur, two pounds of white 
 oxide of arsenic, and five parts of pearl-ash; and 
 melt the whole in a crucible, at a heat a little short 
 of redness. The result is a yellow mass, which is 
 to be dissolved in hot water; and the liquor filtra- 
 ted, to separate it from a sediment formed chiefly 
 of metallic arsenic, in sinning plates, and in a small 
 part, oi'a chocolate-colored matter, which appears 
 to be asub-sulphuret of arsenic. Dilute the filter- 
 ed liquor, then add weak sulphuric acid, which pro- 
 duces a floeculent precipitate, of a most brilliant 
 yellow colour. This precipitate, washed upon a 
 cloth filter, dissolves with the utmost ease in liquid 
 ammonia, giving a yellow solution, which colour is 
 to be removed bv an excess of the same alkali. 
 
 To prepare realgar. 
 The most brilliant and permanent yellow that 
 can be imagined, is the su I phu ret of arsenic, or re- 
 algar, into which more or less diluted, according to 
 the depth of tint required, the wool, silk, cotton, oi- 
 lmen, is to be dipped. All metal ic utensils must 
 be carefully avoided. When the studs come out 
 of this bath they are colorless, but they insensibly 
 take on a yellow hue as the ammonia evaporates.. 
 they are to be exposed as equally as possible to a 
 current oi open air; nnd when the color is well 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS 6? 
 
 come out, and no longer heightens, they are to be 
 washed and dried. 
 
 Wood should be fulled in the ammoniacal solu- 
 tion, and should remain in it till it is thoroughly 
 soaked; then, very slightly and uniformly pressed, 
 or else merely set to drain of itself. Silk, cotton, 
 hemp, and flax,, are only to be dipped in the dyeing 
 liquid, which they easily take. They must then 
 bo well pressed. 
 
 The sulphurot of arsenic will give every imagin- 
 able tint to stuffs, from the deep golden yellow to 
 the lightest straw-colour, which has the invariable 
 advantage of never fading, of lasting even longer 
 than the stuffs themselves, and of resisting all re- 
 agents, except alkalies. Hence it is peculiarly 
 fitted for costly tapestry, velvets, and other articles 
 of furniture which arc not in danger of being 
 washed, with alkalies or soap, and to which the 
 durability of colour is a most important object. It 
 may also be used with advantage in paper-staining. 
 
 Red dyes . 
 The colouring matters employed for dyeing red, 
 are archil, madder, carthamus, kcrmes, cochineal, 
 and Brazil-wood. 
 
 To dye woollens red, crimson, and scarlet. 
 
 Coarse woollen stuffs are dyed red with madder 
 or archil: but fine cloth is almost exclusively dyed 
 with cochineal, though the colour which it receives 
 from kermes, is much more durable. Brazil-wood 
 is scarcely used, except as an auxiliary, because 
 the colour which is imparts to wool, is not perma- 
 nent. 
 
 Wool is dyed crimson, by first impregnating it 
 
U GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 trith atumine, by means of an aJum bath, and then 5 
 boiling it in a decoction of cochineal, till it has 
 acquired the wished-colour. The crimson will be 
 finer, if the tin-mordant is substituted for alum; 
 indeed, it is Usual with dyers, to add a little nitro- 
 mtiriate of tin, when they want fine crimsons. 
 The addition of archil and potass to the cochineal, 
 00th fenders the crimson darker, and gives it more 
 feloom; but the bloom very soon vanishes. For 
 paler crimsons, one-half of the cochineal is with- 
 drawn, and madder substituted in its place. 
 
 Wool may be dyed scarlet, by first boiling it in a 
 solution of murio-sulphate of tin, then dying it 
 pale yellow with quercitron bark, and afterwards 
 crimson with cochinel; far scarlet is a compound 
 colour, consisting of crimson mixed with a little 
 yellow* 
 
 To curry the colour into the body of ike cloth. 
 Make the moistened cloth pass through between 
 two rollers placed within and at the bottom of the 
 dye-vat; so that the web, passing from one wind- 
 lass through the dye-vat, and being strongly com- 
 pressed by the rollers in its passage to another 
 windlass, all the remaining water is driven out, 
 and is re-placed by the colouring liquid, so as to 
 receive colour into its very centre. The winding 
 should be continued backwards and forwards from 
 on© windlass to the other, and through the rolling- 
 ing-press, till the dye is of sufficient intensity. 
 
 To dye silks red, crimson, §c. 
 Silk is Usually dyed red with cochineal, or car- 
 thamus, and sometimes with Brazil-wood. Kermes 
 does not answer for silk; madder is scarcely ever 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 69 
 
 used for that purpose, because it does not yield » 
 colour bright enough. Archil is employed to give 
 silk a bloom; but it is scarcely ever used by itself; 
 unless when the colour wanted is lilac. 
 
 Silk may be dyed crimson by steeping it in a 
 solution of alum, and (lien dyeing in the usual way 
 in a cochineal bath. 
 
 The colours known by the names of poppy, cher- 
 ry, rose, and Jlesk colour, are given to silk by 
 means of carthamus. The process consists mere- 
 ly in keeping the silk as long as it extracts any 
 colour, in an alkaline solution of carthamus, into 
 which as much lemon-juice, as gives it a fine cher- 
 ry-red colour, has been poured. 
 
 Silk cannot be dyed a full scarlet; but a colour 
 approaching to scarlet may be given to it, by first 
 impregnating the stuff with murio-sulphote of tin, 
 and afterwards dyeing it in a bath, composed of 
 four ,-mrts of cochineal, and four parts of quercit- 
 ron bark. To give the colour more body, both 
 the mordant and the dye may be repeated. 
 
 A colour, approaching to scarlet may be given 
 to silk, by first dyeing it in crimson, then dyeing 
 it with carthamus; and lastly, yellow, without heat. 
 
 To dye linens and colions red, scarlet, §c. 
 Cotton and linen are dyed red with madder. 
 The process was borrowed from the east; hence 
 the colour is often called Adrianople, or Turkey- 
 red. The cloth is first impregnated with oil, then 
 with galls, and lastly witii alum, It is then boiled 
 for an hour in the decoction of madder, which is 
 commonly mixed with a quantity of blood. After 
 the cloth is dyed, it is plunged into a soda lev 
 in order to brighten the colour. The red given 
 
1$ GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 by this process, is very permanent; and when 
 bfdperly conducted, it is exceedingly beautiful. 
 The whole difficulty consists in the application of 
 the mordant, which is by far the most complicated 
 employed in the whole art of dyeing. 
 
 Cotton may be dyed scarlet, by means of murio- 
 fctilphiate of tin, cochineal, and quercitron bark, 
 used as for silk, but tho colour is too fading to be 
 of any value. 
 
 Black dyes. 
 
 The substances employed to give a black colour 
 to cloth, are red oxide of iron, and tan. These 
 txro substances have a strong affiinity for each 
 other, and when combiued, assume a deep black 
 colour, not liable to be destroyed by the action of 
 air or light. 
 
 Logwood is usually employed as an auxiliary, 
 because it communicates lustre, and adds consid- 
 erably to the fulness of the black. It is th* wood 
 of a tree which is a native of several of tho West- 
 India islands, and of that part of Mexico which 
 surrounds the bay of Honduras. It yields its col- 
 ouring matter to water. The decoction is at first 
 a fine red, bordering on violet: but if left to itself, 
 it gradually assumes a black colour. Acids give 
 it a deep red colour; alkalies, a deep violet, incli- 
 ning to brown: sulphate of iron renders it as black 
 as ink, and occasions a precipitate of the same color. 
 
 Cloth, before it receives a black colour, is usu- 
 ally dyed blue: this renders the colour much fuller 
 and finer than it would otherwise be. If the cloth 
 is coarse, the blue dye may be too expensive; in 
 that case, a brown colour is given, by means o[ 
 wa!nut-po«l*. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS, 71 
 
 To dye woollens black. 
 Wool is dyed black by the following process 
 It is boiled for two hours in a decoction of nut* 
 galls, and afterwards kept, for two hours more, in 
 a bath, composed of logwood and sulphate of iron, 
 kept, during the whole time, at a scalding heat, 
 but not boiling. During the operation, it must t)£ 
 frequently exposed to the air; because the green 
 oxide of iron, of which the sulphate is composed 
 must be converted into red oxide by absorbing 
 oxygen, before the cloth can acquire a proper col^ 
 our. The common proportions, are five parts of 
 galls, five of sulphate of iron, and thirty of Jog* 
 wood, for every hundred of cloth A little ace-* 
 tate of copper is commonly added to the sulphate 
 of iron, because it is thought to improve the colour, 
 
 To dye silks black. 
 Silk is dyed nearly in the same manner, It is 
 capable of combining with a great deal of tan; 
 the quantity given is varied at the pleasure of the 
 artist, by allowing the silk to remain a longer pf 
 shorter in the decoction 
 
 To dye cottons and linens black. 
 The cloth, previously dyed blue, is steeped for 
 24 hours in a decoction of nut-galls. A bath ig 
 prepared containing acetate of iron, formed by sa^ 
 turating acetous acid with brown oxide of iron: 
 into this bath the cloth is put in small quantities at 
 a time, wrought with the hand for a quarter of aa 
 hour; then wiring out, and aired again; wrought 
 in a fresh quantity of the bath, and afterwards &jr* 
 ed. These alternate processes are repeated fcijj 
 jthe colour wanted is given: a decoction gf tlfldf 
 
72 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 bark is usually mixed with the liquor containing 
 the nut-galls. 
 
 To dye ivool, Sfc brown. 
 
 Brown, or fawn colour, though in fact, a com 
 pound, is usually ranked among the simple colours, 
 because it is applied to cloth by a single process 
 Various substances are used for brown dyes. 
 
 Walnut-peels, or the green covering of the wal- 
 nut, when first separated, arc white internally, but 
 soon assume a brown, or even a black colour, on 
 exposure to the air. They readily yield their col- 
 ouring matter to water. They are usually kept in 
 large casks, covered with water, for above a ) :ar 
 before they are used. To dye wool brown with 
 them, nothing more is necessary, than to skepthe 
 cloth in a decoction of them till it has acquired the 
 wished-for colour. The depth of the shade is pro- 
 portional to the strength of the decoction. 
 
 The root of the walnut-tree contains the same 
 colouring matter, but in smaller quantity. The 
 bark of the birch also, and many other trees, may 
 be used for the same purpose. 
 
 To dye compound colours. 
 
 Compound colours are produced by mixing to- 
 gether two simple ones; or whicfeisthe samething 
 by dyeing cloth first of the simple colour, arkUhen 
 by another. These colours vary to infinity, accord- 
 ing to the proportions of the ingredients employed. 
 From blue, red, and yellow, red olives and green- 
 ish greys are made. 
 
 From blue, red, and brown, olives are made from 
 the lightest to the darkest shades; and by giving 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 73 
 
 a greater shade of red, the slated and lavender 
 greys are made. 
 
 From blue, red, and black, greys of all shades 
 are made, such as sage, pigeon, slate, and lead 
 greys. The king's or prince's colour is duller 
 than usual; this mixture produces a variety of hues 
 or colours almost to infinity. 
 
 From yellow, blue, and brown, are made the 
 goose dung and olives of all kinds. 
 
 From brown, blue, and black, are produced 
 brown olives, and their shades. 
 
 From the red, yellow, and brown, are derived 
 the orange, gold colour, feuillemort, or faded leaf, 
 dead carnations, cinnamon, fawn, and tobacco, by 
 using two or three of the colours as required. 
 
 From yellow, red/and black, browns of every 
 shade are made. 
 
 From blue and yellow, greens of all shades. 
 
 From red and blue, purples of all kinds are 
 formed 
 
 To dye different shades of green. 
 
 Green is distinguished by dyers into a variety 
 of shades, according to the depth, or the preva- 
 lence of either of the component parts. Thus, 
 we have sea-green, grass-green, pea-green, &c. 
 
 Wool, silk, and linen, are usually dyed green, 
 by giving them first a blue colour, and afterwards 
 dying them yellow, when the yellow is first given, 
 several inconveniences follow: the yellow partly 
 separates again in the blue vat, and communicates 
 a green colour to it; thus rendering it useless for 
 every other purpose, except dyeing green. Any 
 of the usual processes for dyeing blue and yellow, 
 may be followed, taking care to proportion the 
 7 
 
74 GENUINE RECEIPTS 
 
 uepth of the shades to that of the green required. 
 When sulphate of indigo is employed, it is 
 usual to mix all the ingredients together, and to 
 dye the cloth at once; this produces what is known 
 by the name of Saxon^or English green. 
 
 To d]jc violet, purple, and lilac. 
 Wool is generally first dyed blue, and after- 
 wards scarlet, in the usual manner. By means of 
 cochineal mixed with sulphate of indigo, the pro- 
 cess may be performed at once. Silk is first dyed 
 crimson, by means of cochineal, and then dipped 
 into the indigo vat. Cotton and linen are first 
 dyed blue, and then dipped in a decoction of log- 
 wood; but a more permanent colour is g'ven by 
 means of oxide of iron. 
 
 To dye olive, orange, and cinnamon. 
 
 When blue is combined with red and yellow on 
 cloth, the" resulting colour is olive. Wool may be 
 dyed orange, by first dyeing it scarlet, and then 
 yellow. When it is dyed first with madder, the 
 result is a cinnamon colour. 
 
 Silk is dyed orange by means if carthamus: a, 
 cinnamon colour by logwood, Brazil-wood, and 
 fustic mixed together. 
 
 Cotton and linen receive a cinnamon colour 
 by means of weld and madder; and an olive-col- 
 our by being passed through a blue, yellow, and 
 then a madder bath. 
 
 To dye grey, drab, and dark brown. 
 If cloth is previously combined with brown ox- 
 ide of iron, and afterwards dyed yellow with quer- 
 citron bark, the result will be a drab of different. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 35 
 
 shades, according to the proportion of mordant 
 employed. When the proportion is small, the col- 
 our inclines to olive, or yellow; on the contrary, 
 the drab may be deepened, or saddened, as the 
 dyers term it, by mixing a little sumach with tho 
 bark. 
 
 To dye a black upon col ton, linen, and mired goods. 
 Take tar, iron liquor of the \ery best quality; 
 add to each gallon thereof, three quarters of a 
 pound of fine flour, and boil it to the consistency 
 of a thin paste. Put the liquor or paste above- 
 mentioned into a tub belonging to a machine used 
 in the process. The goods intended to be dyed 
 are wound upon a roJler, and passed through the 
 liquor or paste, betwixt the two rollers; thereby 
 completely staining or dyeing the whole mass or 
 body of the cloth. Pass them into a very hot 
 stove or drying-house till dry, then take cow's 
 dung, put it into a large copper of water about 
 scalding hot, and mix it well together, through 
 which pass the piece of cloth until it be thoroughly 
 softened. Wash the goods, so dunged, extreme. 1/ 
 well in water. Take a quantity of madder, or 
 logwood, or sumach, or all of them mixed together, 
 as the strength of the cloth and nature of the col- 
 our may require, and put them into a copper, or 
 tub of of hot water; then enter the goods before 
 nientioned in this liquor, and keep rinsing or mov- 
 ing them therein, until they are brought up to tire 
 strength of colour required. Have the good; 
 again well washed and dried. For dyeing black, 
 it will be proper to pass the goods a second time 
 'through the above operations; adding more or lesi 
 of the dyeing-woods as before. If, after the above 
 operations the shade of colour is too full, or too 
 
76 GENUINE REO-JPI &. 
 
 much upon the red hue, it will be necessary to give 
 them a little sumach, and then run them through 
 a liquor made from iron and owler, or alder bark 
 
 Another method. 
 Take common iron liquor, and add three quar- 
 ters of fine flour, and by boiling bring it to the 
 consistency of a thin paste; or instead of flour, 
 add glue or linseed, or gum, or all of them mixed 
 together, till it is brought to a proper thickness 
 Then pass the goods through the machine, and 
 follow the before mentioned operations. 
 
 To dye olives, bottle greens, purples, broivns, cinna- 
 mons, or snuffs. 
 
 Take common iron liquor, or common iron 
 liquor with alum dissolved therein, in quantity of 
 each according to the shade of colour wanted, 
 made into a paste or liquid, by adding flour, gum, 
 glue, linseed, or one or more of them as before. 
 Then put the) liquor or paste above mentioned in- 
 to a tub belonging to the machine, and pass the 
 goods so intended to be dyed, through the machine. 
 Take them from the machine, and hang them up 
 in a very cool room, where they are to remain till 
 they are thoroughly dry. Take cow's-dung, put 
 it into a large copper of hot water, and mix it well 
 together; through which pass the cloth or goods 
 until thoroughly softened, the quantity of dung 
 and time required, being proportioned as before. 
 
 The goods after this process being well washed, 
 take a quantity of liquor made from madder, log- 
 wood, sumach, fustic, Brazil, woad, quercitron 
 bark, peach wood, or other woods, to produce the 
 colour wanted, or more of them; and if necessa- 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 77 
 
 y dilute this liquor with water, according to tho 
 shade or fulnesss' of colour wanted to be dyed. 
 Then work the goods through this liquor, after 
 which pass them through cold or warm water, ac- 
 cording to colour, the proper application of which 
 is well known to dyers, adding a little alum, cop- 
 peras, or Roman vitriol, or two or more of them 
 first dissolved in water. Then wash them olf in 
 
 -varm water, and dry them. But if the colour is 
 not sufficiently lull, repeat the same operations till 
 it is brought to the shade required. 
 
 To (life crimson, red, orange, or yellow. 
 Take red liquor, such as is generally made from 
 alum, and dilute it with water according to the 
 strength or shade of colour wanted to dye, bring- 
 ing it to the consistency of a paste or liquid, as 
 before described. Then pass the cloth through 
 the machine; which being dried in a cool room, 
 pass it through the operations of dunging ana 
 washing as before. Take a quantity of liquor, 
 made from cochineal, madder, peach-wood, Brazil, 
 logwood, woad, fustic, sumach, or any two or more 
 of them proportioned in strength to the shade or 
 colour wanted to dye, and work the goods through 
 this liquor till they are brought to the shade of col- 
 our required; after which wash them in cold or 
 warm water, and dry them. 
 
 To dye cotton , wool, and silk, with Prussian blue. 
 Immerse the cotton into a large tub of water 
 slightly acidulated and charged with prussiate of 
 potass. These sorts of stuifs dyed in Prussian 
 blue, and then in olive transformed into green, are 
 particularly sought after in trade. By processes 
 
78 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 analagous to tKose employed for cotton stuffs, the 
 inventor has obtained the same shades and col- 
 ours, on samples of silk; and for many years, he 
 has even succeeded in fixing Prussian blue on 
 wool, and in producing on cloth the same shades as 
 on cotton and silk. 
 
 To precipitate acetates of lead and copper, on wool, 
 silk and cotton. 
 
 Soak the stuff which is required to be dyed, in 
 a solution of acetate, or rather sub-acetate of lead, 
 wring it when it comes out of the bath, drying it in 
 the shade, afterwards wash it, and again immerse 
 it in water charged with sulphurated hydrogen gas. 
 By this process are obtained, in a few minutes, 
 rich and well laid shades, which vary from the clear 
 vigone colour, to the deep brown, according to the 
 force of the mordant and the number of the im- 
 mersions of the stufts in the two bathing vessels. 
 From the order of affinities, it is the wool which 
 takes colour the best, afterwards the silk, then the 
 cotton, and lastly the thread, which appears little 
 apt to combine with the mordant. 
 
 The different colours above indicated, resist the 
 air well, likewise feeble acids, alkalies, and boiling 
 soap, which modify their shades in an impercepti- 
 ble manner, and these shades are so striking, that 
 it will appear difficult to obtain them in any other 
 manner. 
 
 This new kind of dye is very economical. The 
 sulphurated hydrogen gas is obtained from a mix- 
 ture of two parts of iron filings, and one of brim- 
 stone melted in a pot; this brimstone is bruised, in- 
 troduced into a matt rass> and the gas is removed 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 79 
 
 by sulphuric acid extended in water to a mild heat 
 The gas absorbs abundantly in cold water. 
 
 To dye cotton cloth black. 
 Take a quantity of Molacca nuts, which, in 
 Bengal, are sold at 2s. per cwt., and boil them in 
 water, in close earfhern vessels, with the leaves of 
 the tree. During the boiling, a whitish substance, 
 formed from the mucilage and oil of the nuts, will 
 rise to the surface; this must be taken ofFand pre- 
 served. The cloth intended to be black, must be 
 printed with this scum, and then dyed, after which 
 let it be passed through lime water, when the print- 
 # ed figures will be changed to o. full and permanent 
 black 
 
 To dye wool a permanent blue colour. 
 Take four ounces of the best indigo, reduce it to 
 a very fine powder, and add twelve pounds of wool 
 in the grease; put the whole into a copper large 
 enough to contain all the wool to be dyed. As 
 soon as the requisite colour is obtained, let the wool 
 be well washed and dried. The liquor remaining 
 may be again used, to produce lighter blues. The 
 colour vvill be as beautiful and permanent as the 
 finest blue, produced by woad, and the wool, by 
 tfhs method will loose less in weight than if it had 
 been previously scoured. 
 
 To produce the Swiss deep and pale red tropical 
 mordants. 
 When the cotton cloth has been freed by steep- 
 ing and boiling in soap and water, from the paste 
 used by the weaver, and any other impurities it 
 may have acquired, immerse it thoroughly, or, as 
 
80 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 it is called, tramp or pad it in a solution of any al- 
 kali, and oil of grease, forming an imperfect soap, 
 or boil it in any of the perfect soaps dissolved in 
 water, or in a solution of soda and gallipoli oil, in 
 the proportion of 1 gallon of oil to 20 gallons of 
 soda' lees, at the strength of 4 degrees and a half; 
 then dry the cloth in the stove, and repeat the pro- 
 cess several times, which may be varied at pleas- 
 ure, according to the lustre and durability of the 
 colour wanted, stove-drying the cloth between ev- 
 ery immersion. To the above solutions add a little 
 sheep, s dung, for the first three immersions; these 
 are called the dung liquors; after the cloth has re- 
 ceived the dung liquors, it is steeped for 12 hour^ 
 in a quantity of water, 110 degrees of Fahrenheit; 
 this is called the green steep. The cloth being 
 again stove dried, is immersed as above in a solu- 
 tion of alkali and oil, or grease, or boiled in per- 
 fect soap dissolved, but without the sheep's dung; 
 or oftener, according to the brilliancy of colours 
 wanted, stove-dying as before, between every im- 
 mersion; these are called the white liquors. Steep 
 the cloth for twelve hours at 125 degrees Fahren- 
 heit, which forms what is called the white steep. 
 The cloth being now thoroughly washed in cold 
 water, and dried, is ready to receive, first, the pink 
 mordant, which is composed as follows: — take 
 equal quantities, by measurement, of a decoction 
 of galls at the strength of four to six, and a solu- 
 tion of alum at one half degree, the alum being 
 previously saturated with whitening, or any other 
 alkali, in the proportion of 1 ounce to the pound 
 weight of alum; mix them together, and raise the 
 temperature to 140 degrees of Fahrenheit, or as 
 hot as can be handled. By immersion, as former- 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 81 
 
 ly mentioned, in this mixture, the cloth, when dyed 
 and cleared, exhibits a beautiful pink, equal, if not 
 superior, to that produced by cochineal. 
 
 To dye silks and satins broivn in the small way. 
 
 Fill the copper with river water, when it gently 
 boils, put in a quarter of a pound of chipped fustic, 
 two ounces of madder, one ounce of sumach, and 
 half an ounce of camwood; but if not required to 
 be so red, the cam-wood may be omitted. These 
 should boil, at least, from half an hour to two hours, 
 that the ingredients may be well incorporated. 
 The copper must then be cooled down by pouring 
 in cold water: the goods may then be put in, and 
 simmered gently from half and hour to an hour. 
 If this colour should appear to want darkening, or 
 saddening, it may be done by taking out the goods, 
 and adding a small quantity of old black liquor; a 
 small piece of green copperas may be used: rinse 
 in two or three water, and hang up to dry. 
 
 To dye silks of fawn colour drabs. 
 Boil one ounce of fustic, half an ounce of al- 
 der bark, and two drachms of archil. From one 
 to four drachms of the best crop madder must be 
 added to a very small quantity of old black liquor, 
 if it be required darker. 
 
 To dye a silk shawl scarlet. 
 First dissolve two ounces of white soap in boil- 
 iag water, handle the shawl through this liquor, 
 now and then rubbing such places with the hands 
 as may appear dirty, till it is as clean as water will 
 make it. A second, or even a third liquor may be 
 
*2 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 used, if required: the snawl must be rinsed out in 
 warm water. 
 
 Then take half" an ounce of the best Spanish 
 annatto, and dissolve it in hot water; pour this so- 
 lution into a pan of warm water, and handle the 
 shawl through this for a quarter of an hour; then 
 take it out and rinse it in clean water. In the 
 meanwhile dissolve a piece of alum of the size of 
 a horse bean in warm water, and let the shawl re- 
 main in this half an hour; take it out and rinse it 
 in clear water. Then boil a quarter of an ounce 
 of the best 'cochineal for twenty minutes, dip it 
 out of the copper into a pan, and let the shawl re- 
 main in this from twenty minutes to half an hour, 
 which will make it a full blood red. Then take 
 out the shawl, and add to the liquor in the pan a 
 quart more of that out of the copper, if there is 
 as much remaining, and about half a small wine- 
 glassful of the solution of tin: when cold, rinse it 
 slightly out in spring water. 
 
 To dye a silk shawl crimson. 
 Take about a tabic spoonful of cudbear, put it 
 into a small pan, pour boiling water upon it, stir 
 and let it stand a lew minutes, then put in the silk, 
 and turn it over a shoit time, and when the colour 
 is full enough, take it out; but if it should require 
 more violet or crimson, add a spoonful or two of 
 purple archil to some warm water, and dry it within 
 doors. To finish it, it must be mangled or clan- 
 dered, and ma*' be pressed, if such a convenience 
 is at hand. 
 
 To drje silk lilac. 
 For every pound of silk, take one pound and 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 8:3 
 
 half of archil, mix it well with the liquor; make 
 it boil a quarter of an hour, dip the silk quickly, 
 then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a 
 fine half violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be 
 obtained. 
 
 To dye thick silts, satins, silk stockings, fyc. of a 
 jlesfo colour. 
 Wash the stockings clean in soap and water, 
 then rinse them in hot water; if they should not 
 then appear perfectly clear, cut half an ounce of 
 white soar, into thin slices, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan half full of boiling water; when this soap is 
 dissolved, doo'I the water in the pan, then put in 
 the stockings, and simmer for twenty minutes; take 
 them out, and rinse in hot water; in the interim 
 pour three table spoorJiful of purple archil into a 
 wash-hand basin half full of hot water; put the 
 stockings in this dye water, and when of the shade 
 called half violet or lilac, take them from the dye 
 water, and slightly rinse them in cold; when dry 
 hang them up in a close room in which sulphur is 
 burnt; when they are evenly bleached to the shade 
 required of flesh colour, take them from the sul- 
 phuring-room, and finish them by rubbing the 
 right side with a clean flannel: Some persons cal- 
 ender them afterwards. Satins and silks are done 
 the same way. 
 
 To dye silk stockings black. 
 These are dyed like other silks, excepting that 
 they must be steeped a day or two in black liquor, 
 before they are put into the black silk dye. At 
 first they will look like an iron grey; but to finish 
 and black them, they must be put on wooden legs, 
 
84 GhiNUlNE RECEIPTS. 
 
 laid on a table, and rubbed with the oily rubber, 
 or flannel, upon which is oil of olives, and then 
 the more they are rubbed the better. Each pair 
 of stockings will require half a table spoonful of 
 oil, at least, and half an hour's rubbing, to finish 
 them well. Sweet oil is the best in this process, 
 as it leaves no disagreeable smell. 
 
 To 'due black cloth green. 
 Clean the cloth well with bullock's gall and wa- 
 ter, and rinse in warm water; then make a copper 
 full of river water boiling hot, and take from one 
 pound to one pound and a half of fustic; put it in, 
 and boil it twenty minutes, to which add a lump 
 of alum of the size of a walnut; when this is dw- 
 solved in the copper, put in the coat, and boil it 
 twenty minutes; then take it out, and add a small 
 wine glass, three parts full, of themic blue, and 
 boil again from half an hour to an hour, and the 
 cloth will be a beautiful dark green; then wash 
 out and dry. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS FOR DY- 
 ING, STAINING, &c. 
 
 To turn red hair black. 
 Take a pint of the liquor of pickled herrings, 
 half a pound of lamp-black, and two ounces of the 
 rust of iron. Mix and boil them for twenty min- 
 utes, then strain and rub the liquid well into the 
 roots of the hair. 
 
 To dye bristles or feathers green. 
 Take of verdigris and verditcr, each 1 ounce, 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 85 
 
 gum water 1 pint; mix them well, and dip the 
 bristles or feathers, they having been first soaked 
 in hot water, into the said mixture. 
 
 Blue. — Take of indigo and risse, each 1 ounce, 
 and a piece of alum the size of a hazel nut; put 
 them into gum water, and dip the materials into it 
 hot, hang them up to dry, and clap them well that 
 they may be open, and by changing the colours, 
 the aforesaid materials may be in this manner dy- 
 ed of any colour; for purple use lake and indigo; 
 for carnation, vermillion and smalt. 
 
 Red. — Take an ounce ef Brazil wood in powder, 
 half an ounce of alum, a quarter of an ounce of 
 vermillion, and a pint of vinegar, boil them up to 
 a moderate thickness, and dip the bristles or feath- 
 ers, they having been first soaked in hot water, in 
 to the said mixture. 
 
 To dye or colour horse hair 
 Steep in water wherein a small quantity of tur- 
 pentine has been boiled for the space of two hours; 
 then having prepared the colous very hot, boil the 
 hair therein, and any colour, black excepted, will 
 take, but that will only take a dark red or dark 
 
 blue, &c. 
 
 To dye gloves. 
 Take the colour suitable for the occasion; if 
 dark take Spanish brown and black earth; if light- 
 er, yellow and whiting; and so on with other col- 
 ours: mix them with a moderate fire, daub the 
 gloves over with the colour wet, and let them hang 
 till they are dry, then beat out the superfluity of 
 the colour, and smooth them over with a stretching 
 or sleeking stick, reducing them to their proper 
 shape. 
 
 8 
 
86 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 To dye white gloves purple. 
 Boil four ounces of logwood and two ounces of 
 roche alum in three pints of soft water till half 
 wasted. Let the liquor stand to cool after strain- 
 ing. Let the gloves be nicely mended, then with 
 a brush rub them over, and when dry repeat it. 
 Twice is sufficient, unless the colour is to be very 
 dark; when dry, rub off the loose dye with a 
 coarse cloth; beat up the white of an egg, and 
 with a sponge rub it over the leather. The dye 
 will stain the hands, but wetting them with vinegar 
 before they are washed will take it off. 
 
 To prepare wood for dyeing. 
 
 The wood mostly used to dye black, is pear-tree, 
 holly, and beach, ail of which take a beautiful black 
 colour. Do not use wood that has been long cut, 
 or aged, but let it be as fresh as possible. After 
 the veneers have had one hour's boiling, and then 
 taken out to cool, the colour is always much stron- 
 ger. When dyed, they should be dried in the air, 
 and not by the fire, nor in a kiln of any kind, as 
 artificial heat tends to destroy the colour. 
 
 In order to dye blue, green, red or other colours, 
 take clear holly. Put the veneers into a box or 
 trough, with clear water, and let them remain four 
 or five days, changing the water once or twice as 
 occasion may require, the water will clear the 
 wood of slime, &.c. Let them dry about twelve 
 hours before they are put into the dye; the colour 
 will strike quicker, and be of a brighter hue. 
 
 To prepare blue turnsole for staining wood. 
 Roil four ounces of turnsole in a pint and a half 
 of water, in which lime has been slaked. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 87 
 
 To stain oak a mahogany colour. 
 Boil together Brazil wood and Roman alum, and 
 before it is applied to tlie wood, a little potash is 
 to be added to it. A suitable varnish for wood, 
 thus tinged, may be made by dissolving amber in 
 oil of turpentine, mixed with a small portion of 
 linseed oil. 
 
 EbomjrBlack. 
 Steep the wood for two or three days in luke- 
 warm water, in which a little alum has been dis- 
 solved; then put a handful of logwood, cut small, 
 into a pint of water, and boil it down to less than 
 •half a pint. If a little indigo is added, the colour 
 will be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this li- 
 quor quite hot on the wood with a pencil, which 
 will give it a violet colour. When it is dry, 
 spread on another layer; dry it again, and give it a 
 third: then boil verdigris at discretion in its own 
 vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the wood: when 
 it is dry, rub it with a brush, and then with oiled 
 chamois skin. This gives a fine black, and imi- 
 tates perfectly the colour of ebony. 
 
 Another method. 
 After forming the wood into the destined figure, 
 rub it with aqua-fortis a little diluted. Small 
 threads of wood will rise in the drying which is to 
 be rubbed ofT with pumice stone. Repeat this pro- 
 cess again, and then rub the wood with the follow- 
 ing composition; put into a glazed earthern vessel 
 a pint of strong vinegar, two ounces of fine iron 
 tilings, and half a pound of pounded galls, and al- 
 low them to infuse for three or four hours on hot 
 cinders. At the end of this time augment the fire, 
 
83 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 and pour into the vessel four ounces of coperas 
 (sulphate of iron) and a chopin of water having 
 half an ounce of borax, ancTas much indigo dissolv- 
 ed in it; and make the whole boil till a froth rises. 
 Rub several layers of this upon the wood; and 
 when it is dr.y, polish it with leather on which a lit- 
 tle tripoli has been put. 
 
 To stain beech-wood a mahohrami colour, 
 » Break two ounces, of dragon's blood in pieces, 
 
 and put them into a quart of rectified spirit of wine; 
 let the bottle stand in a warm place, and shake it 
 frequently. When dissolved it is fit for use. 
 
 Jfiwiker method. 
 Boil one pound of logwood in four quarts of wa- 
 ter, and add a double handful of walnut peeling. 
 Boil it up again, take out the chips, add a pint of 
 the best vinegar, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 To slain musical instruments. 
 
 Crimson. 
 
 Boil one pound of ground Brazil-wood in three 
 
 quarts of water for an hour; strain it, and add half 
 
 an ounce of cochineal; boil it again for half an 
 
 hour gently, and it will be fit tor use. 
 
 Purple. 
 Boil a pound of chip logwood in three quarts of 
 water for an hour; then add four ounces of pearl- 
 ash, and two ounces of indigo pounded. 
 
 To stain box wood brown. 
 Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive a 
 gentle warmth; then take aqua fortis, and with a 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 89 
 
 feather pass it over the work, till it changes to a 
 fine brown. Then oil and polish it. 
 
 To dye wood a silver grey. 
 Let not the veneers be two dry; when put into 
 the copper, pour hot iron liquor (acetate ot iron) 
 over them, and add one pound of chip logwood 
 with two ounces of bruised nut-galls. Then boil 
 another pot of iron liquor to supply the copper, 
 keeping the veneers covered and boiling two 
 hours a day, until thoroughly penetrated. 
 
 Bright yellow. — A very small bit of aloes put 
 into the varnish, will make the wood of a good yel- 
 low colour. 
 
 Another method. 
 Reduce four pounds of the roots of barbary, by 
 sawing into dust, which put into a copper or brass 
 pan, add four ounces of tumeric, to which put four 
 gallons of water, then put in as many holly veneers 
 as the liquor will cover; boil them together for 
 three hours, often turning them. When cool, add 
 two ounces of aqua-fortis, and the dye will strike 
 through much sooner. 
 
 Bright green.-Proceed as before to produce a 
 yellow; but instead of aqua-fortis, add as much of 
 the vitriolated indigo as will produce the desir- 
 ed colour. 
 
 Another method. — To three pints of the strong- 
 est vinegar, add four ounces of the best verdigris, 
 ground fine, half -an ounce of sap-green, and half 
 an ounce of indigo. Proceed in straining as be- 
 fore, c* 
 
90 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 Bright red. — To two pounds of genuine Brazil 
 dust, add 4 gallons of water, put in as many ve- 
 neers as the liquor will well cover, boil them for 
 three hours, and let them cool; then add two oun- 
 ces of aqua-fortis, and ke*p it luke-warm until it 
 has struck through. 
 
 Purple. — To two ounces of chip logwood, and 
 half a pound of Brazil-dust, add four gallons of 
 water. Put in the veneers, and boil them well, 
 then add six ounces of pearl-ash and two ounces 
 of alum: let them boil two or three hours every 
 day, till the colour has struck through. 
 
 Fine blue. — Into a pound of oil of vitriol in a glass 
 bottle, put four ounces of indigo, and proceed as 
 before directed. 
 
 To slain paper or p How. 
 
 Paper may be stained a beautiful yellow by the 
 tincture of turmeric formed by an ounce 
 
 or more of the root, d, in a pint, of spirit 
 
 of wine. This may be made to give any tint of 
 yellow, from the lightest straw to the full colour, 
 called French yellow, and will be equal in bright- 
 ness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow be 
 wanted of a warmer or redder cast, aunatto, or 
 dragon's blood, must be added. The best man- 
 ner of using these, and tke following tinctures, i3 
 to spread them even on the paper, or parchment 
 by means of a broad brush, in the manner of var- 
 nishing. 
 
 Crimson. — A very fine crimson stain may be 
 given to paper by a tincture of the Indian" Lake, 
 which may be made by infusing the lake some 
 days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 91 
 
 tincture from the dregs. It may be stained ted 
 by red ink. It may also be stained of a scarlet 
 hue by the tincture of dragon's blood in spirit of 
 wine, but this will not be bright. 
 
 Gh^een. — Paper or parchment may be stained 
 green, by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or 
 
 by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water. 
 
 Grange. — Stain the paper or parchment first of 
 a full yellow, by means of the tincture of tumer- 
 jck; then brush it over with a solution of fixed al- 
 kaline salt, made by dissolving half an ounce of 
 pearl-ashes, or salt of tartar, in a quart of water, 
 and filtering the solution. 
 
 Purple. — Paper or parchment may be stained 
 purple, by archil, or by the tincture oflogwood. 
 
 The juice of ripe privet berries expressed will 
 likewise give a purple dye. 
 
 To marble Ike edges of books or paper. 
 
 Dissolve four ounces of gum arabic in two 
 quarts of clear water: then provide several col- 
 ours mixed with water in pots or shells, and with 
 pencils peculiar to each colour, sprinkle them by 
 way of intermixture upon the gum-water, which 
 must be put into a trough, on some broad vessel; 
 then with a stick curl them or draw them out in 
 streaks, to as much variety as required. 
 
 Having done this, hold the book or books close 
 together, and only dip the edges in, oil the top of 
 the water and colours very lightly; which done, take 
 them off, and the plain impression of the colours 
 in mixture will be upon the leaves; doing as well 
 
92 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 the ends, as the front, of the book the same man 
 ner. 
 
 To marble the covers of books. 
 
 This is performed by forming clouds with aqua 
 fortis, or spirit of vitriol, mixed with ink, and after- 
 wards glazing the covers. 
 
 To colour vellum green. 
 
 Take half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, 
 an ounce of verdigris, and half an ounce of sap 
 green; dissolve them in the vinegar for a few 
 days, having been heated by the fire. Shake 
 the bottle frequently before it is used. 
 
 Wash the vellum over with weak potash wa- 
 ter, and when dry, colour it with the green three 
 or four times, till it has a good colour: when dry, 
 wash it over with thin paste water, to give the vel- 
 lum a gloss. 
 
 To black the edges of paper. 
 
 Mix black lead with ink, and when the paper is 
 cut, colour it thinly over with black ink, with a 
 fine piece of cloth; rub on the black-lead, cover 
 ing every part; take the dog's-tooth, and bur- 
 nish the edge till it becomes well polished. 
 
 When the edge of the paper, after cutting, ap- 
 pears rather rough, scrape it over with a piece of 
 glass or an iron scraper, with a flat edge. 
 
 To sprinkle the edges of books, tyc. 
 The brushes used for book-edges, must be made 
 of Russia hog's bristles, of good thickness, tied 
 round with cord", glued at the thick end, and half 
 covered with a piece of leather: when dry, tye the 
 brush again with a waxed cord, within half an inch 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 93 
 
 of the soft part, and cut it very smooth and even. 
 Brushes made after this manner are preferable to 
 those with a handle. 
 
 Prepare the colour in a cup; dip in the brush till 
 it is charged, and then press it out till it will drop 
 no longer. The book must be screwed tight in the 
 cutting press: hold the brush in the left hand, and, 
 with a folding stick in the right, rub it over the 
 brush, which will cause the colour to sprinkle fine- 
 ly on the edges. The brush must be moved up 
 and down over the edge, as you sprinkle, to have 
 it regular on every part. After the sprinkling is 
 done, the brushes should be carefully washed in 
 water, particularly after sprinkling blue, which will 
 otherwise soon destroy the brush. 
 
 To dye or stain horn tortoise-shell colour. 
 The horn to be dyed must be first pressed into 
 proper plates, scales, or other flat form, and the 
 following mixture prepared: Take of quick-lime 
 two parts, and litharge one part, temper them to- 
 gether to the consistence of a soft paste, with soap 
 ley. Put this paste over all the parts of the horn, 
 except such as are proper to be left transparent, in 
 order to give it a near resemblance to the tortoise- 
 shell. The horn must remain in this manner, cov- 
 ered with the paste, till it is thoroughly dry; when, 
 the paste being brushed off, the horn will be found 
 partly opaque and partly transparent, in the man- 
 ner of tortoise-shell, and when put over a foil 
 of the kind of lattern, called orsedue, will be 
 scarce distinguishable from it. It requires some 
 degree of fancy and judgment to dispose of the 
 paste in such a manner as to form r? variety of trans- 
 parent parts, of different magnitudes; and figurea 
 
»4 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 to look like the effect of nature; and it will be an 
 improvement to add semi-transparent parts, which 
 may be done by mixing whiting with some of the 
 paste, to weaken its operation in particular places, 
 by which spots of a reddish-brown will be produ- 
 ced, which, if properly interspersed, especially on 
 the edges of the dark parts, will greatly increase 
 the beauty of the work, and its similitude to real 
 tortoise-shell. 
 
 Another method. 
 Take an equal quantity of quick-lime and red 
 lead, and mix it up with strong soap lees. Lay it 
 on the horn with a small brush, like the mottle in 
 tortoise-shell. When dry, repeat the same two or 
 three times. 
 
 To dye horns of different colours. 
 
 Black is performed by steeping brass in aqua 
 fortis till it is turned green: with this the horn is 
 to be washed once or twice, and then put into a 
 warmed decoction of logwood and water. 
 
 Green is begun by boiling it, &c. in alum-water, 
 then with verdigris, ammoniac, and white wine vin- 
 egar, keeping it hot therein till sufficiently green. 
 
 Red is begun by boiling it in alum water, then with 
 verdigris, ammoniac, and finished by decoction in 
 a liquor compounded of quick-lime steepod in rain 
 water, strained, and to every pint an ounce of 
 Brazil wood added. In this decoction the horns 
 are to be boiled till sufficiently red. 
 
 Horns receive a deep black stain from solution 
 of siilver. It ought to be diluted to such a degree 
 as not sensibly to corrode the subject, and applied 
 two or three times if necessary, at considerable 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 95 
 
 intervals, the matter being exposed as much as 
 possible to the sun, to hasten t-he appearance and 
 deepening of the colour. 
 
 To imitate King; or Botany-bay wood. 
 
 Take French berries half a pound, and boil 
 them in two quarts 6Y water, till you have a deep 
 yellow, and with it boiling hot, give two or three 
 coats to your work; let it be nearly dry, then, with 
 the black stain form the grain with your brush: to 
 be used hot. 
 
 JY. B. You may, for variety, after giving it 
 two or three coats of yellow, give one of strong 
 logwood liquor which will heighten the colour, and 
 then use the black stain as directed. 
 
 Ji common red for bedsteads and common chairs. 
 
 Archil, as sold at the shops, will produce a very 
 good stain of itself when used cold; but if, after 
 one or two coats being applied and suffered to get 
 almost dry, we brush it over with a hot solution of 
 pearlash in water, it will improve the colour. 
 
 To imitate rose-wood. 
 Take half a pound of logwood, boil it with three 
 pints of water till it is of a very dark red, to which 
 add about half an ounce of salt of tartar, and 
 when boiling hot stain your wood with two or 
 three coats, taking care that it is nearly dry be- 
 tween each; then with a stiff flat brush c such as is 
 used by the painters for graining, form streaks 
 with the black stain above named, which if care- 
 fully executed, will be very near the appearance ( 
 of dark rose wood. 
 
96 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 Another Method. 
 
 Stain your wood ail over with the black stain, 
 and when dry, with a brush as above, dipped in 
 the brightening liquid, form red veins in imitation 
 of the grain of rose-wood, which will produce, 
 when well managed, a beautiful effect. 
 
 JYote — A handy brush for the purpose, will be 
 made by taking a flat brush such as is used for 
 varnishing, and cutting the sharp points oft' the 
 hairs, and making the edge irregular, by cutting 
 out a few hairs here and there, you will have a 
 tool which, without any trouble, will imitate t\i9 
 grain with great accuracy. 
 
 To varnish a piece of Furniture. 
 First, observe the work to be clean; then see if 
 any knots or blemishes require filling up, which 
 must be done with cement of the same colour; 
 have your varnish in an earthen pot, with a piece 
 of wire diametrically across the top, slackened 
 downwards, to stroke the brush v against; then see 
 that your brush is clean, and free from loose hairs, 
 dip your brush in the varnish, stroking it across 
 the wire, and give the work a thin and regular 
 coat; soon after that another, and^another, always 
 taking care not to pass the brush twice in the 
 same place; let it stand to dry in a moderately 
 warm place, that the varnish may not chill. 
 j When you have given your work about six or 
 seven coats, let it get quite hard, (which you will 
 prove by pressing your knuckles or, it, if It leaves 
 a mark it is not hard enough; ) then with the 
 three first fingers of your hand, rub the varnish till 
 it chafes, and proceed over that part of the work 
 jou mefm to polish, in order to take out all th« 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 97 
 
 streaks, or partial lumps made by the brush; give 
 it then another coat, and let it stand a day or two 
 to harden. 
 
 Note — The best vessel for holding your varnish 
 is commonly sold at colour-shops, called a varnish 
 pan; it is constructed of tin with a false bottom; 
 the interval between the two bottoms is rilled with 
 sand, which being heated over the fire, keeps the 
 varnish fluid and flows more readily from the 
 brush; there is a tin handle to it, and the false bot- 
 tom comes sloping from one end to the other, which 
 causes the varnish to run to one end, and with a 
 wire across in the same manner as recommended 
 in the above directions. 
 
 To keep your brushes in order. 
 The brushes used for varnishing are either flat 
 in tin, or round tied firm to the handle, and either 
 made of camel's hair or very fine bristles; in the 
 use of which it is necessary to be very careful in 
 cleaning them after being used, for if laid by with 
 the varnish in them they are soon spoiled; therefore 
 after using them wash them well in spirits of wine 
 or turpentine, according to the nature of your var- 
 nish ; after which you may wash them out with hot 
 water and soap and they will be as good as new, and 
 last a great while with care; and the spirits that are 
 used for cleaning, may be used to mix with varnish 
 for the more common purposes, or the brushes may 
 be cleansed merely with boiling water and strong 
 yellow soap. 
 
 To make the best white hard Varnish. 
 Rectified spirits of wine, two gallons: gum san- 
 drach, five pounds; gum mastic, one pound; gum 
 9 
 
98 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 anime, four ounces; put these in a clean can,or bot- 
 tle to dissolve, in a warm place, frequently shaking 
 it, if (when the gum is dissolved) you strain it 
 through a lawn sieve, it is fit for use. 
 
 To make Mastic Varnish proper for varnishing 
 Pictures or Drawings. 
 
 To every quart of spirits of turpentine put one 
 pound and a quarter of the cleanest gum mastic, 
 set it in a sandbath till it is all dissolved, then 
 strain it through a fine sieve, and it is ready for 
 use; if too thick, you may thin it with spirits of tur- 
 pentine. 
 
 To make Turpentine Varnish. 
 To one gallon of spirits of turpentine add five 
 pounds of clear rosin pounded; put it in a tin can, 
 on a stove and let it boil for half an hour; when the 
 rosin is all dissolved ; let it cool, and it is fit for 
 use. 
 
 To make a Varnish for Violins, &c. 
 Take half a gallon of rectified spirits of wine, to 
 which put six ounces of gum mastic, and half a pint 
 of turpentine varnish; put the above in a tin can, 
 keep it in a very warm place, frequently shaking it, 
 until it is dissolved; strain it and keep it for use. 
 Should you find it harder than you wish, you 
 may add a little more turpentine varnish. 
 
 To Varnish Harps and Dulcimers in the Indian 
 manner. 
 
 Prepare the work with size and red ochre; then 
 take ochre, burnt umber, and red-lead, well ground, 
 and mix up a dark brown color in turpentine var- 
 
GEJNUINE RECEIPTS. 99 
 
 nish, adding so much spirits of turpentine that you 
 may just be able to work it, pass over your work 
 fair and even; and while it is yet wet, take a muslin 
 sieve, and sift as much Dutch metal, (bronze,) up- 
 on it as you think requisite to produce the effect; 
 after which varnish and polish it. 
 
 To varnish Drawings, or any kind of Paper or 
 Card-work. 
 
 Take some clear parchment cuttings,boil them in 
 water in a clean glazed pipkin, till they produce a 
 very clear size, strain it, and keep it for use. 
 
 Give your work two coats of the above size, pas- 
 sing quickly over the work, not to disturb the col- 
 ors, proceed as before directed with your varnish. 
 
 Another Method still better. 
 
 Take one ounce of the best isinglass, dissolve it 
 in about a pint of water by simmering it over the fire; 
 strain it through fine muslin, and keep it for use. 
 
 Try the size on a piece of paper, (heat it to a 
 moderate heat,) arid if it glistens it is too thick; 
 then add more water,if it soaks into the paper it is too 
 thin; add or diminish the isinglass till it merely dulls 
 the surface; then take your drawing, and give it two 
 or three coats, being careful (particularly in the 
 first coat) to bear very lightly on the brush, (which 
 should be a flat tin camel's hair,) and plenty of size 
 to flow freely from it, otherwise you may damage 
 the drawing. 
 
 Then take the best mastic varnish and give it at 
 least three coats, and the effect will answer your 
 most sanguine wishes. 
 
 •Yofe. — This is the method used by many erni- 
 
100 GEJNIUJNE RECEIPTS. 
 
 nent artists and is found superior to any that ha* 
 been tried. 
 
 Amber Varnish. 
 Take amber eight ounces, in powder, and two 
 of gum lac: melt the amber by means of the heat, 
 by means of a glazed pipkin, with half a pint of the 
 best spirits of turpentine; and when melted add the 
 gum lac, place it on the fire again, and keep stir- 
 ring it with a piece of wood till it is all dissolved, 
 then add one ounce of the clearest cold-drawn lin 
 seed oil; stir it well together, and strain it for use 
 
 Oil Varnish. 
 
 Take any quantity of the best linseed oil, let it 
 boil for an hour, then to every pound of oil add a 
 quarter of a pound of the clearest rosin in powder, 
 stir it well till dissolved; then add for every pound 
 of oil used, one ounce of spirits of turpentine, 
 strain it and bottle for use. 
 
 Mote. — This is a cheap and good varnish for 
 sash frames, or any work where economy is requir- 
 ed; it has besides the property of bearing hot wa- 
 ter without being damaged, and is not subject to 
 crack or scratch. 
 
 Copal Varnish. 
 Take spirits of wine one quart, gum copal one 
 ounce, and shell lac half an ounce; reduce the 
 gums to powder, put the spirits in a jar or bottle, 
 add the gums, place the whole in a warm place, 
 with the cork lightly in the bottle; shake it occa- 
 sionally, and when the gums are quite dissolved, 
 strain and bottle for use. 
 
GENUINE RECEIPTS. 101 
 
 To tinge bone and ivory red. 
 
 Boil shavings of scarlet cloth in water. When it 
 begins to boil, throw in a quarter of a pound of 
 ashes made from the dregs of wine, which will ex- 
 tract the colour; then throw in a little roche alum 
 to clear it, and pass the water through a linen cloth. 
 Steep the ivory or bone in aqua-fortis, and put in- 
 to the water. If it is necessary to leave white 
 spots, cover the place destined for them with wax. 
 
 Black. — Take a double handful of lime, and slack 
 it by sprinkling it with water: stir it up together, 
 let it settle ten minutes, and pour the water into 
 a pan. Then take the ivory, &c. and steep it in 
 the lime water twenty-four hours, after which, boil 
 it in strong alum water one hour, and dry it in the 
 air. 
 
 Another method. 
 
 Steep the bone or ivory during five or six days, 
 in water of galls with ashes made with dried dregs 
 ofwinii and arsenic \ then give it two or three lay- 
 ers of the same black, with which plumtree is black- 
 ened in order to imitate ebony. 
 
 Or dissolve silver in aqua-fortis, and put into it 
 a little rose water. Rub the ivory with this and 
 allow it to dry in the sun. 
 
 Green — This colour is imparted to ivory or bone 
 by a solution of copper or verdigris in aqua-fortis, 
 or by grinding together two parts of verdigris and 
 one of sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Purple. — Take four ounces of aqua-iegia, and 
 one of sal-ammoniac. 
 
 Yellow. — ivory, bone, horn, &c. may de staned 
 yellow, by previously boiling them in a solution of 
 one pound of alum, in two quarts of water, then 
 immersing them for half an hour in a liquor, pie- 
 
102 GENUINE RECEIPTS. 
 
 pared by boiling half a pound of tumeric in a gal- 
 lon of water, until it be reduced to hree quarts, and 
 afterwards plunging the coloured substance into 
 alum water. 
 
 Blue. — All bony matters may be stained blue, by 
 first tinging them with green, and then dipping 
 them into a hot and strong solution of pearl-ashes. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 CURIOUS ARTS. 
 
 To Burnish with Gold 
 
 Enamel Picture Glasses 
 
 Wash Iron or Steel with Gold 
 
 Wash Brass or Copper with Silver 
 Ornamental Bronze Gilding 
 To give wood a Gold, Silver or Copper lostre 
 
 Print Gold Letters on Morocco 
 
 Dye silk a brilliant Gold colour 
 
 Silver colour 
 
 Silver Looking-Glasses 
 To write on paper with Gold or Silver 
 To make good shining Black Ink 
 
 Blue Ink - 
 
 Red Ink 
 
 Yellow Ink 
 
 Green Ink 
 
 Purple Ink 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 To write in various colours with the same pea, ink and paper 16 
 
 Invisible Ink for secret correspondence - 16 
 
 Sympathetic Ink - - 10 17 
 
 Luminous Ink - - 17 
 
 To make writing appear and disappear at pleasure - 17 
 
 Make writing vanish and another appear in its place 19 
 
 Restore old writing - - - 18 
 
 A picture that will appear and disappear occasionally 18 
 
 To give Iron the whiteness of Silver - 16 
 
 MEDICAL, AND MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Astringent for the teeth 
 
 Bread, improvement 
 
 Blacking 
 
 Botts, in a horse 
 
 Bugs 
 
 Beer 
 
 Breath 
 
 Congh, whoeping 
 
 Canker 
 
 Caneers 
 
 47 
 28 
 
 24 25 28 
 24 
 25 
 
 . 27 28 
 
 48 
 
 • 
 
 18 n 
 
3 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Carni 
 Cuts 
 China 
 Cordial 
 Cement 
 Cherries - 
 Cream of rosea 
 Dropsy 
 
 Dy«, yelloy and green 
 Damsons 
 Eyes 
 
 Eve sKftnt 
 Fliea 
 Gravel 
 Gout 
 
 Grease spots 
 Gloves 
 Grapes 
 Goosburries 
 Horses 
 Hair 
 Ink 
 
 Iron moulds 
 Ink spots 
 Jaundice 
 
 Liquid Laudanum 
 Looking glasses 
 Leather, water proof, tanning 
 Meat, preserved 
 Ointment, nerve 
 bone 
 Polypus 
 Potatoes 
 Ploughing 
 Pick* 
 Pearl water 
 Paste, alum 
 Quinsy 
 
 Rattlesnake, bite 
 Ricketta 
 Rheumatism 
 Rye 
 Sesatia 
 Stone 
 Stain* 
 Stalk* 
 
 X 21 
 
UTDKX 
 
 Salve 
 
 Sealing wax 
 
 Strawberries 
 
 Throat 
 
 Teeth 
 
 Tooth ache 
 
 Ulcers 
 
 Worms 
 
 Wines 
 
 4,1 
 
 50 
 45 
 20 
 21 
 20 47 
 9 
 
 22 25 
 
 BLEACHING AND WASHING. 
 
 To clean buff coloured cloth - - 31 
 
 wash fine linen and lace - - 81 
 
 clean white veils - - 81 
 
 " black « - - 32 
 
 clean black silks - - 31 
 
 clean scarlet cloth - - - 82 
 
 dip scarlet c'.oth j - - 82 
 
 clean gloves - - - 83 
 
 take out writing 351 
 
 clean paper hangings - - 34 
 
 clean gold lace 49 
 
 take out ink spots - - 4£ 
 
 COOKING, &c. 
 
 To fry meats 
 pot leg of beef 
 make plain pudding 
 potatoe pudding 
 tansy pudding 
 Fast day's dish 
 Puff paste 
 Short crust 
 Steam potatoes 
 Paste for tarts 
 A rich plum cake 
 A rich seed cake 
 Plain pound cake 
 Gingerbread 
 Cream cakes 
 Common buns 
 Custards 
 Cakes 
 Biscuits 
 Currant jelley 
 
 34 
 35 
 33 
 3(5 
 36 
 
 37 
 37 
 37 
 38 
 30 
 30 
 30 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 41 
 41 
 42 
 
HVDGX 
 
 Raflpbeiry ereo* 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 4* 
 
 Strawberry jam 
 
 . 
 
 m 
 
 
 48 
 
 Raepberry jam 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 To salt hams* 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 41 
 
 DYEING. 
 
 
 
 
 Acetite of ahimine 
 
 • 
 
 . 
 
 
 62 
 
 of lead and copper 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 Blue, wool and woolen clock 
 
 _ 
 
 m 
 
 
 57 
 
 Black dyes 
 
 . . 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 Bottle green 
 
 m 
 
 _ 
 
 
 76 
 
 Brown 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 70 
 
 Black cloth, green 
 
 .- 
 
 _ 
 
 
 64 
 
 Colours, to render holding 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 56 
 
 of garments to change - 
 
 . 
 
 . 
 
 
 62 
 
 to discharge 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 6] 
 
 Cottons, to dye blue 
 
 .» 
 
 - 
 
 
 6fc 
 
 red, scarlet, &c. 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 69 
 
 black 
 
 71, 
 
 76, 
 
 76 
 
 79 
 
 yellow 
 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 Compound coloui 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 Cinnamon 
 
 . 
 
 - 
 
 
 76 
 
 Crimson, red orange, or yellow 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 Chemtc, blue and green, to make 
 
 - 
 
 
 59 
 
 Effect of various waters on various eoloora 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 Flesh colour 
 
 . 
 
 . 
 
 
 83 
 
 Green, different shades 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 73 
 
 Grey, drab, aud dark brown 
 
 . 
 
 - 
 
 
 74 
 
 Linen to dye blue - 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 63 
 
 black 
 
 _ 
 
 71 
 
 ,75 
 
 ,76 
 
 yellow 
 
 _ 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 Logwood, the dye of 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 55 
 
 Mordants, to prepare 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 51 
 
 to chose and apply 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 
 52 
 
 Swiss deep and pale red tropical 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 Materials, to purchase 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 ,T7 
 
 Madder, dye of 
 Mnriate of tin 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 
 60 
 
 Mineral yellow upon wool, silk, 
 
 cotton, hemp, &c. 
 
 
 
 66 
 
 Mixed cloth, black - 
 
 - 
 
 
 75 
 
 , 76 
 
 Olive, oil, and crimson 
 
 . 
 
 
 14 
 
 , 76 
 
 Purple 
 
 - 
 
 
 14 
 
 , 76 
 
 Prussian blue 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 77 
 6rt 
 67 
 
 Realgar, to prepare 
 
 - 
 
 • 
 
 
 Red dy«« 
 
 - 
 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Solution of tin in aquafortis 
 Silk, to alum 
 
 to due blue 
 
 yellow 
 
 red, crimson, &o. 
 
 black 
 
 lilac 
 
 brown 
 
 of fawn colour, drab 
 
 shawl, scarlet 
 
 crimson 
 Stockings, blaek - 
 Snuff colour 
 Tow, &c. 
 
 To carry colour into the body of eloth 
 Violet and lilac 
 Woollens, red, crimson and scarlet 
 
 black 
 
 brown - 
 
 permanent blue 
 
 yellow - 
 Tellow dyes 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 To turn red hair black 
 
 bristles or feathers, green 
 
 colour horse hair - 
 
 dye gloves 
 
 dye white gloves purple 
 
 prepare wood for dyeing 
 
 prepare blue turnsole for staining wood 
 
 stain oak mahogany eolour 
 
 beech do. do. 
 
 stain musical instruments crimson and purple 
 
 stain box-wood brown F p 
 
 dye wood a silver grey, yellow, and green .. 
 do. red, purple, and blue . 
 
 ■tain paper or parchment yellow and *ri mwB , 
 ■Jrhl , K ^ en ' or ? n ^ and pnrple - 
 marble the edges of paper - 
 
 do. cover of books 
 eolour velum green 
 black the edges of paper 
 •pinkie the edges of books, &e. . 
 •ye or stain horn tortoise-shell eolear - 
 
 71 
 
 82 
 81 
 81 
 82 
 82 
 83 
 76 
 54 
 68 
 74 
 67 
 71 
 72 
 79 
 64 
 €3 
 
 84 
 84 
 85 
 85 
 86 
 
 86 
 87 
 
 90 
 91 
 91 
 92 
 92 
 92 
 92 
 9t 
 
6 INDEX. 
 
 To dye horns of different colours - . 94 
 
 imitate Bottany-bay wood " - 95 
 
 A common vamisb for bedsteads - - 95 
 
 To imitate rose wood 05 
 
 another method - - - 96 
 
 varnish furniture - - 96 
 
 keep brushes in order - - .97 
 
 make white hard varnish - - 97 
 
 varnish pictures and drawings - - 98 
 
 make turpentine varnish - - gg 
 
 varnish for violins, &c. - - 98 
 
 varnish harps, &c. in the Indian manner - gg 
 
 drawing, card work, &c. - _- 99 
 
 Amber varnish - 100 
 
 Oil varnish - Iqq 
 
 Copal varnish - \qq 
 
 To tinge bone and ivory red - iq\ 
 
 do. green ' - 101 
 
 do. purple - - - 101 
 
LIBRARY