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 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 CHICAGO TO VICTORIA 
 
 VANCOUVER'S ISLAXD, 
 
 AND RETURN 
 
 1884. 
 
 PRINTICD FOR PrilVj^-rE CIRCXJL ATION. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & CO., PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS. 
 
 1885. 
 
24237 
 
 A large portioq of this itiqerary has appeared iq the "Newcastle 
 Weekly C^]roqicle," of Newcastle-upoq-Tyne, England. Mr. James 
 Hay, of Southsea, had previously giveq selectioqs froiT] it iq a paper 
 read by him before tl^e Literary aqd Scieqtific Society of Portsmouth, 
 England. 
 
 It is hjere printed in full as originally written. 
 
 
GljiGDgo to Victoria, Voijcouver's Isioijl 
 
 AND RETURN. 
 
 Thursday, July 24, 1884, we leave Chicago at 1 p. m., via the 
 Chicago & Alton llailroad. We have a drawing-room in a l)eautiful 
 and convenient buffet sleeping car. We have supper in the superb 
 dining car "Charlton,"' said to he the largest car ever built. In this 
 spacious and beautiful car, with its large windows, lai'ge tables, roomy 
 seats, excellent and attentive waiters, and generous bill of fare, we 
 have all the luxuries and c'bniforts of a first-class hotel. Flowers on 
 all the tables and on othei- points of vantage add beauty and fragrance 
 to that whicli was already very beautiful. It is a pretty custom on the 
 dining cars on this road for the waiters to adorn the patrons with 
 button-hole bouquets. On this particular car, these bouquets were 
 larger than on the other dining cars. In reply to an incpiiry, a polite 
 waiter laughingly explained that the bouquets were made large to 
 correspond with the size of the car, so that not only the car should 
 be the largest of its kind but the bouquets likewise. 
 
 It was one of Illinois' hottest days, sultry to the extreme point of 
 endurance. Corn is the leading product of the country through which 
 our route lay, and the corn crop looked promising. Here and there 
 it had been bent down considerably by heavy showers of rain. Much 
 interest was felt in the corn crop this year, because for the preced- 
 ing two years corn in Illinois had not come up to the expected pro- 
 lific yield. A rainstorm came on during the afternoon, and lasted, 
 without much intermission, all night. It did not make it perceptiblv 
 cooler, and sleep became almost an impossibility. While, however, 
 it was not what might have l)een hoped, a temporary comfort to 
 travelers, it luckily did not succeed in doing permanent damage to 
 the corn. 
 
 Friday, July 25th. We arrive in Kansas City at 8:25 a. m. The 
 Union Depot, used by all the railroads, eleven in number, centring 
 in this city, is on the fiats below the city. These fiats are lowlands 
 
NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 which spread out toward the Missouri and Kaw rivers and the open 
 country lying west. The Kaw river empties into the Missouri a mile 
 or two above Kansas City. Beyond the junction of these two rivers 
 lies Wyandotte, picturesquely spread over rising ground. Kansas 
 City proper is a city set on a veiy high hill. It is also a city which 
 has a high opinion of itself. It is the correct thing to think and 
 speak highly of Kansas City as long as you remain in it, and it is 
 safe to do so, and entirely satisfactory to the average citizen. It 
 is simply just, not to seiiously modify that opinion on second 
 thoughts, after bidding good-bye to this most progressive of Missouri 
 cities. It has all the dash of Chicago, and has the ambition to 
 believe that it will rival St. Louis in population. It now numbers 
 about 100,000. The flats present a busy scene of elevators, pork- 
 packing and other establishments; passenger depor, freight depots 
 and 3'ards; and the numeious railroad tracks radiating in all direc- 
 tions, — to Mexico, California, Oregon, Manitoba; to the frozen North, 
 the sunny South, the Pacific slope, the Atlantic seaboard and the 
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 We get rooms at the Centropolis Hotel, and drive round the 
 city. The residence portion is constantly improving, and is very fine. 
 Some of the locations present commanding views of a pleasant land. 
 Fine residences are numerous, evidencing widely diffused wealth and 
 good taste and aspirations after comfort. From an elevated point, in 
 the outskirts of the city, we get extensive views in all directions. We 
 have the Missouri in sight above and below the city ; the flats, the 
 Kaw, Wyandotte ; the flat, wooded lowlands across the Missouri ; 
 Kansas City, on the hills; and the rolling, hilly country stretching 
 back from the city to Westport and beyond, — scenes which leave an 
 ineff"aceable impression. On former visits, I availed myself of this 
 advantageous point of view, and I return to it always with pleasure. 
 
 Kansas City was once, and that, too, within the memoiy of young 
 people, Westport Landing, and nothing more. Now Westport is 
 a not very important suburb of Kansas City. In the irony of fate the 
 same result has befallen many other ambitious places in this country. 
 Thus, Monterey, in California, now a fishing place and a bathing and 
 pleasure resort, and nothing more, was once expected to become 
 what San Francisco has become. New Buffalo, Indiana, and Michi- 
 gan City, Indiana, both on Lake Michigan, each expected to be the 
 great city in the West, which Chicago has become. Time disap- 
 points many expectations. The heat was intense to-day. 
 
 Saturday, July 26lh. We leave Kansas City at 9:50 a. m., via the 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 5 
 
 Atchison, Topeka & Santa F6 Railroad. Tlie day is insufferably hot. 
 To Lawrence, and on to Tojieka, we run for the most part close to 
 the Kaw river. It is very full, from recent rains. Corn and all 
 crops are lookina; splendid. Farmers can not get help enough to cut 
 and store their crops, and it is even said that some of them, rather 
 than leave the wheat standing which they are unable to handle, are 
 offering it free to any one who will cut it and take it away. This was 
 probably only a loud way of reporting the prolific harvest; but the 
 assertion was made that it was an actual fact. I accepted it, how- 
 ever, as an exaggeiated metliod of statement adopted by some creat- 
 ure endowed with an Oriental imagination and gift of speecli. Such 
 crops have not been reaped in Kansas for six years past. Conse- 
 quently everybody is exultant, Ivunsas is " booming," and prices of 
 land are going up. One result will be that these money-making 
 Kansas farmers will devote part of their surplus earnings to a pleas- 
 ure trip East, to visit their ohl homesteads from which they emi- 
 grated, and to spread among their old friends and neighbors the 
 glad tidings of fruitful Kansas, and, l)y their glowing reports, influ- 
 ence another influx of immigration. 
 
 Nominally, K;insas still continues to be a prohibition State. In 
 reality, however, it is nothing of the kind. Prohiljition no more 
 prohibits here than it does in otlier States, in spite of an ex-Governor 
 of Kansas to the contrary, "who," said one of my informants, an 
 indignant Republican, " was tiie first Republican candidate for Gov- 
 ernor who lost his party the State, and was deservedly ' snowed 
 under ' by thousands of advei'se voters." As it is the last day of 
 the week, cases of champagne and car-loads of beer are arriving and 
 being unloaded and delivered at all stations. The railway company 
 takes the side of safety, as it usually does in all cases of doubt, and 
 declines to carry this traflBc. The express companies, theiefore, have 
 a monopoly of it. These illegal consignments arrive, usually, on 
 Saturday and Sunday. 
 
 It appears to be the experience that prohibition condenses the 
 drinking custom to fractions of time, forces it to special days, and 
 impels to periodical heavy drinking, instead of leaving the drinker 
 free to spread his drinking thinly over every day, and imperceptibly 
 attain and retain habits of strict moderation. I have known it to 
 happen in I^ritisli cities in which a Sunday liquor law existed, that 
 the ]ioor man, wlio would otherwise have i)e(!n content with a glass 
 in moderation on Sunday, laid in a stock, in self-defense, on Saturday 
 night, which he used before Monday moiiiing, just because he had it 
 
6 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 handy. Moderate drinkers are thus sometimt^s made immoderate 
 drinkers by unwise legislation, brought about by popularity-hunters, 
 and well-meaning but weak-minded people who leave human Tiature 
 out of their count. Such is the perversity of nature that it refuses to 
 be put in prohibition moulds or other inventions of strait-jacket 
 reformers. At Topeka, the capital of Kansas, where we dine, I am 
 told that 1 can get wagon loads of beer, etc., over the way. A resi- 
 dent of Kansas City interpolates, that Kansas City, which is a Demo- 
 cratic, non-prohibition city in the Democratic State of Missouri, 
 permits no drinking on Sunday, and on that day the curious sight 
 can be witnessed of citizens of Kansas City, Missouri, going over to 
 the prohibition State of Kansas to do their liquor-drinking. 
 
 The leader in this prohibition movement appears to be in bad 
 odor outside the clique which follows him ; and but one opinion 
 about him was expressed to me, that he was a mere self-seeking 
 politician aspiring to power and office, who had mistaken his way ; 
 and that, if he thought any other path than prohibition lay open to 
 him to power atid pelf and position, he would walk therein. It has 
 already been said that he lost his party the State ; and at a later date 
 lie lost the same party his country. He lost the Republican party the 
 presidency of the United States by running on a Prohibition ticket 
 for President, and drawing away just enough votes from the Repub- 
 lican party to defeat the Republican candidate and elect the Demo- 
 cratic one. Angry Republicans roundly declare, that for this he is to 
 have Democratic rewaid, or, at any rate, that by his candidacy he has 
 advertised hiuiself so extensively that he will be in demand as a 
 lecturer on total abstinence, and gather ducats galore. His candi- 
 dacy was widely distrusted, the Republican organs opened vials of 
 political wrath upon him, and the organs of all parties exposed 
 relentlessly to view the sores of his social life, and he was burnt in 
 effigy in a few places. His election cry, " Vote as you pray," had 
 the taint of cant in it ; he stood as much chance of being elected to 
 the presidency as he did of being elected to the papacy, and it is 
 onl}' reasonable to suppose that he knew this just as well as every- 
 body else did. 
 
 After passing an uncomfortably hot day, we arrived at Newton, 
 Kansas, at 6: 20 p. m. Ladies on the train, and who were from Louisi- 
 ana, said that it was hotter than in Louisiana. They looked forward 
 with apprehension to a hot night in the sleeping car, and envied us 
 our stop over at night at Newton. But it was so hot that night 
 in Newton, that we were hardly disposed to admit that we could 
 
FROM CIIICAdO TO VICTORIA. 7 
 
 have haii a more sultry experience in a sleeping car. Our plan, 
 however, was, as much as possible, to stop over at night, and travel 
 in the day time, so as to see all that we could of the country. 
 
 Sunday, July 27th. We leave Newton at 7:30 a. m., and begin 
 to-day to renew acquaintance with prairie dog villages. Fine crops 
 
 continue to come into view, and we look out at intervals on vast 
 herds of cattle and horses. We arrive at Dodge City at 2:40 p. m., 
 and depart from there at 1:45 p. m. This incredible feat was 
 made possible by the change of meridian time taking effect westward 
 at this point. We turn our watches back one hour, and indulge in 
 heterodox explanations of the way in which the Pro])h(,'t Tsaiali of 
 
8 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 old manipulated the dial of Ahaz. Turning back time is not so 
 much of a miracle in our day as in that of Hezekiah. 
 
 At Dodge an immense herd of cattle is fording the Arkansas. The 
 picturesque cow-boy assists in this ci'ossing. Wr have seen him 
 several times as we have come along. In Dodge we see him ; and 
 we also see his ponies, many in number, tied up to posts in the 
 street, while he irrigates his constitutionally thirsty soul in some 
 drinking saloon. Distance lends enchantment to the view when the 
 cow-boy is the object of vision. He looks not amiss afar o£F on 
 horseback, distance softening the outline of his figure, and effectually 
 concealing the outlines of his face : near at hand he is not by any 
 means alluring. It does not occur to you that it is desirable to culti- 
 vate his acquaintance, or to think of him as intellectual. If he 
 drops into literature, it is that of yellow covers and unutterable con- 
 tents. His tone is loud ; his language is plain, but not particularly 
 edifying, and usually consists largely of selections at random from 
 Ho y Writ, not in that order, nor of that kind, which is pleasing to 
 ears polite or pious. He rides fast, drinks fast, lives fast, and it 
 sometimes falls to him to die fast. He is doomed to disappear like 
 the buffalo and the Indian. Meantime, red-shirted or red-belted, 
 armed, and mounted on a fleet steed, he is not an unlovely streak df 
 color on the distant horizon. He becomes worse than commonplace, 
 and has a touch of something more dangerous than disagreeable, as 
 he comes closer. 
 
 In Dodge recently an ex-United States marshal went gunning 
 for a United States marshal. These two distinguished citizens — one 
 an "active and intelligent" official, and the other an "active and 
 intelligent " ex-official — were looking for each other (which is, I 
 believe, the correct way of expressing it), and opened fire on sighting 
 each other, and one fell. We gazed from the train on the historic 
 spot of this encounter. Verdict of good citizens of Dodge : " Pity 
 that both had not fallen in the fray : Dodge could well have spared 
 both." 
 
 The Arkansas river has l)een alongside for some distance, having 
 been first noticed at Great Bend, so called from the bend in the river. 
 It remains in sight the gieater part of the way until Pueblo is 
 reached, where we cross it twice, having previously crossed it twice, 
 once at Granada, and once about twenty miles west of La Junta. At 
 Cimarron, we come upon the scene of a cyclone of last night. The 
 houses here are chiefly of the adobe style of architecture, with varia- 
 tions. They have been unroofed and much damaged, but fortunately 
 
FROM CHIC ACQ TO VICTORIA. 9 
 
 are of an order which can easily, rapidly and cheaply be repaired, 
 or entirely reconstructed. 
 
 Within the memory of very young men, these vast prairies over 
 which we have passed the hist two days were grazing grounds of 
 buffalo, and were dangerous from Indians : now they teem with rich 
 products, and are rapidly becouung populous with a race who make 
 the school-house the biggest and most prominent landmark in their 
 progress west. We arrive at La Junta at 9:40 v. m. Here one 
 line of railroad diverges to New Mexico, Mexico, Arizona and Cali- 
 fornia, and the other continues on to Pueblo and Denver, there to 
 connect with lines to the Pacific coast. 
 
 Monday, July 28th. We leave La Junta at 7:40 a. m. There is 
 nothing big about it but its school-house, which is most creditable to 
 it. The abode of learning was large, substantially Ijuilt, and well 
 located. It faced the railroad station, of which our hotel was a part, 
 and was a pleasant object of contemplation from our windows. 
 Along the street opposite, and on the other side of the railroad track, 
 in the early morning, there straggled along, in an uncertain and any- 
 thing but straightforward manner, a drunken loafer, who appeared to 
 be making himself unpleasant to the few people who were abroad at 
 that hour. Tacking eccentrically, he propelled himself into a meat 
 market, which is the Western descriptive for butcher's shop. Thei'e 
 must have been some sudden unpleasantness; for we speedily saw 
 him thrown out on the sidewalk by the proprietor of the market, 
 who, after performing this feat, returned to his store and his work. 
 The loafer picked himself up and went on his way, meeting two 
 pedestrians, to whom he explained his unpremeditated and lightning 
 exit from the moat market; but they did not appear to sympathize in 
 his view of the case. 
 
 Soon, on our journey westward from La Junta, the Spanish Peaks, 
 and Pike's Peak, and the great range of the Rocky Mountains, come 
 in sight. Some idea of this immense range can be attained by con- 
 sidering that its area in the United States is very nearly eleven times 
 that of Great Britain. We run alongside of it and in its foot-hills all 
 the way from Pueblo to Denver. These two cities appear to havd 
 remained about stationary in population for the last two years. We 
 gaze on snow-capped mountains, catch glimpses of Colorado Springs, 
 the Garden of the Gods and Monument Park ; and at 1:20 p. m. 
 lunch at the divide, now called Palmer Lake; elevation, 7,237 feet; 
 distance from Denver, 52 miles. 
 
 From this elevated point, the water flows in oj)posite directions. 
 
10 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 
 it 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / ^/ ^-ifii*^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 -".^wy 
 
 
 <0-'.: 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^MMimmm: 
 
 ::.!'■■...: -::::fflaiiiB!L 
 
 „.i:dfe,:!,i„ (111 : 11.1.1,111,1 
 
 1 L1111..J.. ilUii 
 
FROM CHTCAdO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 11 
 
 Snowy Range. 
 
13 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 northward to the Phitte, a tributary of the Missouri, and southward 
 to the Arkansas. It is the point of division on the watershed, and 
 took its oh] name from that. A beautiful little lake adorns this 
 height, and from its midst a fountain plays unceasingly. Its shores 
 are ke|)t in o-ood order, and spacious pleasure grounds lie all around 
 
 A Glimpse of Manitou and Pike s Peak. 
 
 it. There are a band-stand and swings and similar accommodations 
 for fun-loving children. With mountains all around, in a dry and 
 rarefied and wonderfully curative atmosphere, in charming locations, 
 we have an hotel for visitors, summer villas, pavilion for shelter and for 
 dancing, parks, deer; Monument creek, with its cascades; beauties 
 in pine and sycamore, moss and shrubs and wild flowers. It is a 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 13 
 
 Sunday pleasure resort for Denver, and on that day special trains 
 are run, which are well patronized. 
 
 The most striking natural (il)ject we ])ass between the divide and 
 Denver is Castle Rock, thirty-three miles from Denver. It is a promi- 
 nent portion of the foot-hills of the Rocky Mountains, and has a most 
 
 Monument Park. 
 
 castle-like look; but it is gradually lessening in size, great boulders 
 have chipped off and rolled dcnvn, more will follow, and an age will 
 come when Castle Rock will be only a memory, or a line in a book. 
 Time conquers all things. 
 
14 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 We have passed a few prairie dog villages between Paeblo and 
 Denver. We arrive in Denver at 3:15 p. m., and at night go to the 
 Tabor Opera House, one of the show places of Denver, of which its 
 citizens are justly proud. The exterior is imposing, the interior 
 spacious and attractive, the seats roomy, and the ventilation excep- 
 tionally good. 
 
 Tuesday, July 2lJth, We drive to the fine Exhibition Building, 
 and through the principal streets. Denver has fine private and pub- 
 lic buildings, — among them the County Building, the Windsor Hotel, 
 at which we have our quarters, the Union Depot, and the High 
 School. It has also thirty-six common schools, large, airy, well built, 
 lighted and ventilated. Its school buildings are not surpassed, if 
 equaled, in any other city in the Union. Pure water is much cared 
 for and sought after. The hotel at which we stay has its own artesian 
 well, which supplies water perfectly free from all impurity, and clear 
 as crystal. The American Hotel also has its own artesian well, and 
 other hotels will doubtless be spurred on by rivalry to similar acqui- 
 sitions. A splendid site on high ground directly facing the Rocky 
 Mountains has been set apart for the Capitol buildings and grounds. 
 What sublime decrees ought to be the result of such an outlook ! 
 With the snow-clad summits of the sublimities looking down and in 
 upon them, surely legislators will not dare to be mean in mind nor 
 paltry in performance. 
 
 It rained during our drive. It makes as much fuss about a 
 shower here as a hen does cackling over a newly laid e^g; threatens 
 what it will do long before it settles down to business; shakes the 
 trees as if it were going to blow them dovpn, whirls the dust in clouds 
 as if it were a simoom, and does its best to scare everybody and make 
 everything shiver and shake and quake. It can be seen afar off, 
 coming on blustering, black, and as bogey looking as it can make 
 itself. Then it reaches us, and rains for ten minutes, or, perhaps, by 
 a great effort, half an hour. This is its usual course. It bullies and 
 blusters, and tries to terrify by putting on a formidable and dismally 
 forel)oding appearance, and ends by a brief and impotent perform- 
 ance. Rain is not much of an element here. Nobody cares for it, 
 or depends upon it, or expects anything from it. W^hen it threatens 
 most, it is not even relied upon to lay the dust. It progresses in 
 power, however, and, if it only perseveres, may yet achieve success. 
 
 Irrigation is the thing in Colorado. It produces prolific results. 
 They raise fine crops by irrigation; and there is no reason why they 
 should not raise a fine race of men, as the latter irrigate themselves 
 
FROM VIirCACO 10 VICTORIA. 15 
 
 even more copiously tlian they irrigate the soil. In the East they 
 go out " to see a man." In Colorado they " irrigate." " I^et us irri- 
 gate " is the way in whicli tlu>y invite you to practice at the bar. 
 
 The Windsor Hotel is palatial in every sense of the word; and in 
 views of it, on its envelopes and letter-heads, it appears with the 
 lofty, sTiow-clad Rocky Mountains for a background. Nothing can 
 be finer than that point of view; but there is another, which reminds 
 us of nothing so much as of that single step which Thomas Paine and 
 Napoleon the Great and other celebrities have told us divides the 
 sublime from the ridiculous, — on one side, the magnificent snowy 
 range; on the other, hovels. " Ermine and vermin, magnificence 
 and rats." 
 
 In one direction we look out I'rom this regal hotel upon the mar- 
 velous white-hooded mountains; in another, we look across the street 
 on hovels and shanties, and low, mean, rickety buildings most anti- 
 palatial, and yards of ill aspect and noisome. In front of us is the 
 son of siumy Italy, unclean, uncaiuiy looking, unsavory and altogether 
 unattractive, — not the son of ancient Rome, nor of the Rome of IMaz- 
 zini and Garibaldi. This unwashed, unshorn foreigner pi-esides over 
 a fruit stall of unsteady understandings, of which it is impossible to 
 suspect good things. These are contrasts inseparable from new 
 cities, which time will amend. Denver can stand contrasts like these, 
 although it can not be said to care for them, and is fast getting rid 
 of them, and is a city to be desired of man even after everything 
 has been said against it which can fairly be said. We have come 
 from Chicago to Kansas City, 489 miles; Kansas City to Newton, 
 201 miles; Newton to La JuTita, 370 mil<>s; La .Tunta to Denver, 
 184 miles; a total of 1,244 miles. 
 
 Wednesday, July 30th. We leave Denver, altitude 5,200 feet, 
 at 11 A. M., and at 2:40 p. m. arrive at Manitou, eighty miles distant, 
 altitude 6,370 feet. We retrace part of the way we have come 
 seventy-five miles to Colorado Springs, and transfer to a branch line 
 of five miles to Manitou, where we take a drive of about si.\ miles, 
 going first to Williams Canon. It is marvelous to see how the 
 wind and the rain have scooped out, torn and chipped, mined and 
 undermined, these immense walls of rock. I make an attempt to 
 climb to the " Cave of the Winds," which is near the summit at one 
 side of the canon; but, after climbing nearly to the top, find it too 
 hot work, and content myself with taking in the various views from 
 the point attained, and make a leisurely descent. 
 
 The seductive advertising card of this cave apprises me of what I 
 
16 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 Williams Canon. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTOR [A. 
 
 17 
 
 have missed: "This cave is not equale.l by atiy attraction in the 
 
 State. Aladdin's himp never disclosed such wonderful scenerv. It 
 
 is an elfin ramble, and the centre of scenic beauty." Upon \vhich 
 
 followed details of scenery. Having read the "Thousand Nights 
 
 and One Night," I distrusted this card and its amazing claims, and 
 
 clung to my faith in the splendid incredibilities of the magical lamp. 
 
 Having wandered for miles in the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky, I 
 
 doubted of more wonderful caves. 
 
 After exploring the canon and picking up specimens which would 
 
 make the heart of the geologist leap 
 
 for joy, I rest upon a huge boulder, 
 
 and pore upon the brook which 
 
 babbles by, until a shower sends me 
 
 for shelter to the hut at the foot 
 
 of the pathway to the cave. AVhile 
 
 waiting for my companions to return, 
 
 a youth inquires his way to the cave, 
 
 and I play amateur guide, and direct 
 
 him. He sets off at a high rate of 
 
 speed, and does some fast walkino-. 
 
 I put to immediate use my small 
 
 knowledge of mountain air and of 
 
 climbing these heights, and hail liiin 
 
 with the startling information that 
 
 he must restrain himself, or he will 
 drop down breathless, and never 
 reach the top, and may even fail 
 to be " interested " in " the subse- 
 quent proceedings," including the 
 rapidity with which he may leach 
 the bottom by new and hitherto 
 unexplored ways. Being made to understand that he can not climb 
 high and fast in this rarefied air, and that it will take all the breath 
 he has to go slowly and high, he nurses his breath and ascends. 
 
 Then we drive up the Ute Pass, another canon, and a higlnvav to 
 Leadvilie before railroads abolished it as a highway, and superseded 
 the immerous teams which traversed it. Leadvilie, from a mininir 
 camp, rose to be a great mining city, and needed and was provided 
 with a railway, but not by way of the Ute Pass. We drove as far as 
 Rainbow Falls, the chief glory and attraction of this canon, and well 
 worth a visit. We scrambled about the rocks at its foot, gettinn- near 
 
 2 
 
18 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 and good views ; but, as there was no sun at the time, no rainbows 
 could be seen. Afterward we drove on the trail to Pike's Peak as far 
 as the Iron Ute Spring, and tasted its healing waters in the natural 
 state, and also as manufactured into lemonade. Previously we had 
 visited and tasted the other mineral springs, five in number, two of 
 them close together, but of widely different qualities. Carbonate and 
 sulphate of soda prevail in all these springs, including the Ute, and 
 
 Pike s Peak Tiaii, 
 
 carbonate of magnesia in five of them. The waters in some effer- 
 vesce very freely, and bubble up in unlimited supplies. 
 
 Pike's Peak is 14,147 feet above the level of the sea. Snow lies 
 on the top all the year round. The United States Government has 
 a sio-nal station on the top in connection with the Weather Bureau 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 19 
 
 in Washington, — Old Probabilities, or more familiarly known to us 
 all as " Old Probs." It is twelve miles by foot and bridle path to 
 the summit, and during the sunmier parties are made up early every 
 morning, who accomplish the trip there and back on horseback in 
 one day. By looking long and carefully and training the eye to the 
 work, we discern, as specks in the distance, horses and riders thread- 
 ing their way down the mountain. The Pike's Peak railway is being 
 built to the top, which will increase the distance to thirty miles, 
 but will make the trip one of ease and pleasure, and less of labor and 
 fatigue than it is now. This railway will mount two thousand feet 
 higher than the Lima and Oroya railroad in Peru. Its entire length 
 will be a succession of complicated curves and grades, with no piece 
 of straight track more than three hundred feet in length. 
 
 Thursday, July 31st. AVe start early, with a programme made 
 out for all day, and take a carriage drive of over thirty miles to the 
 Garden of the Gods, Glen Eyrie, Colorado Springs, and North and 
 South Cheyenne Canons. 
 A caj^acious hamper 
 jammed full of various 
 supplies relieves us of 
 all apprehensions on the 
 score ^of commissariat 
 until supper time, which 
 is the hour at which we 
 purpose to be back. We 
 enter the Garden of the 
 Gods by the south en- 
 trance, instead of by the 
 gateway, as on my first 
 visit, a few years ago. 
 *' Balanced Rock," close 
 to the entrance, first at- 
 tracts the eye. It is 
 
 about fifty feet high. Balanced Rock. 
 
 thirty feet thick at its greatest breadth, stands on a point of about 
 three feet, and w-eighs many tons. 
 
 The garden is about two miles in length and one in width, and 
 grows only rocks of wondrous form. It would take many days to 
 thoroughly explore it, and see it, as it deserves to be seen, in all its 
 details. Such an exploration would be replete with pleasure and 
 constant surprises. We drive very slowly through it, stopping every 
 
20 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 now and again to get a closer and longer view of some marvel, or to 
 look beyond the garden to the mighty and wondrous range of mount- 
 ains alongside, stretching away far out of sight. All kinds of gro- 
 tesque figures in rock meet the sight, — old man, toad-stools, hooded 
 figures, seals, frogs, deer's head, Mother Grundy, dog's head, lion, 
 Tower of Babel, elephant. Cathedral Rock, and many more catalogued 
 in guide books ; but no guide book nor any description can convey 
 an adequate idea of this astonishing garden. 
 
 Garden of the Gods. 
 
 We pass out at the gateway, which is perhaps the crowning 
 wonder of the place. It is a veritable gateway, of prodigious size 
 and imposing altitude and appearance, minus the gate. As far as we 
 can see, and one can see far in this clear atmosphere, we keep look- 
 ing back at these majestic portals to this garden of giant wonders. 
 
 Glen Eyrie has a canon which, in comparison with the great 
 canons, may be described as a baby canon. If it may l)e permitted to 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 21 
 
 speak of a canon in this way, it has something about it gentler, 
 quieter, more refined, more delicate, more human, and that can be 
 more easily grasped, than the larger canons. I saw it some years 
 ago, but could not see it to-day. All the ground about the entrance 
 has been preempted, and occupied as private property. A gentle- 
 man's residence and grounds bar the way to this natural wonder, 
 hide it from view, and make it a mystery, — a suppressed, secluded, 
 imprisoned wonder, instead of an open marvel. It is an outrage to 
 
 Gardon of the Gods 
 
 permit any one to make private property of scenery like this. As 
 well preempt Niagara Falls, or demand toll for a sight of ocean. 
 There is a legend that a shrewd citizen preempted the top of Pike's 
 Peak, and that much persuasive power was required to convince him 
 that the United States Government was a " biger man " than he was. 
 He was ultimately compelled practically to assent to the precedence 
 of the claim of the government over that of any citizen. 
 
 We were permitted to drive about the beautiful grounds of Glen 
 Eyrie, in part shut in by the Rocky Mountains, and on another side 
 by perpendicular natural walls of great altitude. High up in these 
 
23 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 walls, 1 noticed the huge nest of an eagle, supposed to be the same 
 nest I saw on a former visit, as it was in the same spot. Some natural 
 columns of rock in these grounds are about one hundred feet high, 
 and at a distance look like monuments erected by man. As we drive 
 from Glen Eyrie to Colorado Springs we get distant views of the 
 Garden of the Gods; and the range of the Rocky Mountains, as far 
 as the eye can reach, comes into full and splendid view. 
 
 Colorado Springs is four square miles in area, is five miles from 
 the mountains, and at an altitude of 6,023 feet. It is about fifteen 
 years old, has a population of over 6,000, and is beautiful with trees 
 and flowers and small parks. Through the streets, which are wide, 
 and lined with shade trees, water flows freely, and in unlimited 
 volume, in irrigating ditches. The water supply for irrigating and 
 drinking purposes is said to be practically unlimited, and, coming, as 
 it does, from lofty mountain heights, gives a pressure which makes 
 fire engines superfluous. We drive through a broad street, with two 
 rows of trees in the centre, and a row on each side, and which is 
 intersected by several small parks. 
 
 The drive to the Cheyenne canons was mainly over a road by a 
 pleasant brook, and sheltered by trees. We drove nearly as far as 
 the carriage drive extended in South Cheyenne Canon, and then took 
 lunch in a wood cabin, with the clear waters of the canon flowing on 
 both sides of us. It was a hot and tiresome walk to the Seven Falls 
 of the Cheyenne; but the wonders and the beauties of the way, and 
 the culminating sight of the Seven Falls, made us glad that we had 
 not missed a foot of the distance. In a succession of seven falls, 
 the sweet mountain stream makes its descent from the mountain top 
 to the bed of the canon. At the foot of the lowest fall, the topmost 
 ones are not in sight. I climbed to where I could see the whole 
 series above and below; but this was not half way to the top. I had 
 enough of climbing, and rested and made a leisurely descent, and 
 lay on a boulder at the foot of the lowest fall, and in front of it, listen- 
 ing to its voice and enjoying its coolness, until rejoined by the rest 
 of the company. 
 
 Afterward we drove about two miles up North Cheyenne CanoTi 
 in wooded ways by a delightful stream, the bed of which is chiefly 
 a series of little falls. The two canons are a little less than a mile 
 apart. In both, the mountains rise to a great height on either 
 side, and huge and curious shapes of rock arrest attention. The 
 North Canon was the finest drive, and was more beautiful with trees. 
 On our return in South Canon, as we passed the hut at which 
 
FBOM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 23 
 
 we had lunched, it was being- taken possession of for the night by 
 a party who were camping- out. We saw more than one team, each 
 with a paity who had all the lequisites for camping out. To sleep 
 in this vagabond, Bohemian way in iIk^sc woiidHrliil onfions, seemed 
 a new kind of pleasure. 
 
 After a drive of nearly 
 ten hours, we got back 
 to our hotel at Mani- 
 tou, ready for supper 
 and bed. The air of 
 Colorado creates an ap- 
 petite, and weighs the 
 eyelids down. We 
 drink in this fine air; 
 we revel in it; we tak(^ 
 in new life from it. 
 Whatever the days 
 may be, the nights are 
 cool ; and the air we 
 have breathed, enjoyed 
 and exulted in, and the 
 cool night, shut down 
 our eyelids, and com- 
 pel refreshing sleep ; 
 and, when morning 
 comes, we wake to 
 bounding impulses, 
 feel as if we must skip 
 and bound and play, 
 and are ready and 
 eager for another day 
 of vigorous exercise. 
 
 For miles and miles 
 we ride alongside these 
 snow-capped sublimi- 
 ties which form the 
 backbone of the conti- 
 nent. Patiently they stand, and time chips away at them with a 
 patience equal to their own. Change is on them as on all things. 
 Talk of everlasting hills: that is so much nonsense. Time smiles at 
 that, as he persistently and imperceptibly keeps on demolishing 
 
24 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 them. Age, rain, wind and snow, destructive forces which are only 
 creative forces under another name, chip otf boulders, roll them to 
 the plain, g-rind them to fine dust, and scatter that dust broadcast. 
 The process can be seen as one travels hundreds of miles in and 
 through, over and alongside, this enormous mountain range. 
 
 North Cheyenne Canon. 
 
 What marvels these mountains hold ! what tremendous abysses ! 
 what awe-inspiring altitudes ! what raging torrents ! what gleammg 
 waters in pool, rivulet, fall and lake ! Now this mountain land is 
 beautiful with trees and flowers; now bleak and barren above the 
 timber line and line of vegetation, and with rents and crevices of 
 unknown depths and dimensions, tilled with snow which never 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VrCTORIA. 25 
 
 appears to decrease in volume. What lessons may be read here by 
 the man who brings to these scenes a receptive, responsive soul ! 
 Here the wisest may find more wisdom; the boldest, fear; the gayest, 
 maddest, wildest, some touch of sobriety of thought; the saddest and 
 most sorrow laden, some oblivion, or balm, or patience. 
 
 " If thnu art worn mid liard beset 
 With sorrows tliat thou wouldst forirct; 
 If thou wouldst read a lesson that will keep 
 Tliy heart from fainting and thy soul from sU'c>p, — 
 Go to the hills: no tears 
 Dim the sweet look that nature wears." 
 
 What histories are in these hills ! What sermons in these stones ! 
 What books in these mountain brooks! He to whom these mountains 
 have not a language, is past all reproof, or help, or inspiration. 
 Under their high influence, life does not look at all a joke, nor a 
 shadow, nor a vain show, but real and earnest. Clouds obscure their 
 summits, or sail over their face, rainstorms rage midway upon them, 
 snowstorms in summer add to the snow which covers their loftiest 
 peaks, — all visible to observers who stand in sunshine below. 
 
 An impression appears to prevail abroad, that bigness is the 
 chief characteristic of the sights of this land. The foreigner only 
 hears, or affects to hear, of big rivers, lakes and mountains; and 
 sees, or aifects to see, these alone. I do not wish to assist in keep- 
 ing up the impression that bigness is a peculiarity of our scenery. I 
 read in books and newspapers of other lands, that we have nothing 
 like Lake Geneva, in Switzerland, or " lovely Loch Achray," or other 
 lochs of Scotland, or lakes of England, which, in addition to their 
 other attractions, have become a part of imperishable song, and 
 unforgetable history, and entrancing legend. Yet, we have in the 
 East, Lakes George, Champlain, Memphremagog, Seneca, Geneva 
 and many another; and in the West and in these mountains, count- 
 less small lakes of surpassing beauty. It is not thus intended to dis- 
 avow or belittle those mighty inland oceans, larger in area than 
 European kingdoms ; those great unsalted seas that bear on their 
 broad bosoms the rich argosies of commerce, the priceless products 
 of fertile and sovereign States; but to show that we have also lesser 
 glories in lakes and lakelets of ineff'able beauty, of surpassing loveli- 
 iiess, which need not veil their beauties nor pale their boast before 
 the most vaunted of their rivals of other lands. 
 
 Friday, August 1st. We leave Manitou at 8:45 a. m., for Salt 
 Lake City, via Denver & Rio Grande Railroad and Colorado Springs 
 
36 
 
 NOTES OF A TRir 
 
 and Pueblo, a trip of GtiG miles. From Colorado Springs to Salt Lake 
 City we have buffet sleeping cars, in which lunches can he procured at 
 any hour. We cross the Arkansas often. At one point there is a 
 submerged railway track. The Arkansas has fancies, and indulges 
 
 them. It sud- 
 denly changed 
 its course and 
 went by rail, 
 'il and n o 1) o d y 
 afterward cared 
 to go the same 
 way, or could 
 have gone if he 
 had so cared. 
 I- ! Its waters flow 
 over rails and 
 sleepers where 
 once trains ran. 
 It is in c o n - 
 venient and ex- 
 pensive ; but 
 the river would 
 have its own 
 willful way. 
 
 An observa- 
 tion car is put 
 on at Canon 
 City, that we 
 may sit outside 
 and see all the 
 wonders of the 
 Grand Canon 
 of the Arkan- 
 sas, and es- 
 p e c i a 1 1 y the 
 
 The Royal Gorge. Royal GorgC. 
 
 There is a blazing iiot sun shining fiercely down upon us, and the 
 wind, which is a little unruly, blows right on us smoke and cindei'S 
 from the engine, and dust from wherever it can find it, and it appears 
 to find plenty of it. We heroically sit it out, however, till we 
 have passed in review the glories and grandeurs of the Gi'and 
 
FROM CinCAUO TO VIOTORIA. 27 
 
 Canon, and liave looked on its greatest sight of all, — the Royal 
 Gorge. Here the Arkansas and the railway are compressed to a 
 breadth of only about thirty feet, with perpendicular rocks on each 
 side, 3,000 feet high. The railway for a short distance is suspended 
 over the Arkansas on " an iron bridge built lengthwise with tlie 
 river, and suspended from steel trusses mortised into the rock walls 
 upon each side." At this point on one side there is a rent in the 
 rock extending from top to bottom. 
 
 From Salida, 14 •' miles from our starting point of this morning, 
 the road runs in one direction to r.oadville, and in the other to Salt 
 Lake City. At Manitou the altitude was 6,370 feet ; at Colorado 
 Springs, five miles from Manitou, 0,023 feet ; at Pueblo, forty-five 
 miles from Colorado Springs, 4,608 feet ; at Canon City, forty-one 
 miles from Pueblo, 5,344 feet ; at Salida, fifty-six miles from Cafion 
 City, 7,050 feet. From Salida wo go on ascending, and look uj) to 
 altitudes to which we must go, and down upon depths from which 
 we have come. We do not go on a level, but go up ; do not go 
 straight forward, but run round and round. We look up, and see 
 high above us, but leading in an opposite direction to our present 
 course, the track by which we shall shortly go. We look down, and 
 see far below, but in an opposite direction to our present course, the 
 path by which we have come. We go many miles circuitously in 
 order to make one mile of straio:ht-forward advance. At one hiffh 
 point, the mountains near by frame a view far below, and which 
 we have left far behind, of a most spacious and beautiful valley, lying 
 in sunlight, and guarded by snow-capped mountains. 
 
 Most of the way there are two engines. As we ascend, the 
 engines puff as if their breath were going out, and the cars strain 
 and creak as if the labor of it was physical pain. AVe look up to 
 amazing altitudes to which we are to ascend, as appears from the 
 outline of the track, which distance reduces to the dimensions of a 
 goat path ; and down, with wonderment, to the dcjith fnmi which we 
 have come, marked by the thin streak of the railway track far below. 
 
 We get within a mile walk of the top of Mount Ouray, the alti- 
 tude of which is 14,043 feet. In this clear and deceptive atmos- 
 phere, it seems only a few minutes' walk to the top. Snow lies on 
 it. Snow lies alongside of us at one place. From lofty ))oints of 
 V'antage, we get views of sweet valleys lying in clear sunlight, 
 hemmed in by mountains with snow-clad summits ; far off, but seem- 
 ingly close at hand ; so near to vision, so far away in actual distance. 
 There are mountains nearer and lower, timber clad ; others with trees 
 
38 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 stripped of branches and foliage, bare, and strewed on the ground 
 like stalks of wheat or corn, or like bare poles left standing. These 
 are the remains of forest fires. Snow-sheds become common sights. 
 We pass through many of them before attaining Marshall Pass, at 
 an altitude of 10,760 feet. From this divide the waters flow in one 
 direction to the Pacific Ocean, and in the other to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 There are only ten minutes to take in the view. We are above 
 the timber line. Vegetation exists in lower regions. We look down 
 on lofty mountains and lovely valleys, — in every direction mountains 
 and valleys, both at an elevation of thousands of feet, and both 
 beneath us. There are four thin strips of terrace below, which are 
 the lines of track by which we have ascended, and we are to descend 
 on the other side on similar lines. Flower dealers assail us ; but we 
 waste not a precious minute of the ten at our disposal, and brush 
 aside ail smaller things, and adhere steadily to sight-seeing. 
 
 The ten minutes do not seem as long as ten seconds. We seem 
 to have had just a glimpse of this wonderland when summoned to 
 resume our seats and our iourney and commence the descent. 
 Curves and altitudes affect mercurial, excitable people. Two lively 
 ladies, who have been keeping up a constant excitement, and gener- 
 ally bobbing around and making things lively, and having solid 
 chunks of fun, are overcome, and lie kicking and screaming in the 
 car, when we return to it after our ten minutes' sight-seeing is over. 
 These ladies were seriously affected, and were made worse by a 
 crowd of amateur nurses of both sexes, each of whom had separate 
 opinions and different remedies, mostly absurd and hurtful. A 
 doctor was discovered at last, who aided in the recovery of the worst 
 case, and the other recovered without a doctor. Quiet people usu- 
 ally escape these painful faints. 
 
 We are alongside the Gunnison river, and night and the Black 
 Canon are approaching. I catch glimpses of canon and river as I lie 
 in my berth. We cross and re-cross the river. The stream runs 
 fast, and looks dark ; and the lofty walls of the canon, two or three 
 thousand feet high, impress me with the idea that they could make a 
 night of their own if night were not. Gradually I get too tired for 
 sight-seeing, and give it up for the day, and try to sleep. Think of 
 sleeping in this magnificent canon ; but the mountain air insists 
 upon sleep. Thus I miss countless wonders, among them the red- 
 hued Currecanti Needle, described as an abrupt and isolated pinnacle 
 which has all the grace and symmetry of a Cleopatra obelisk ; but, 
 judging from a Cleopatra Needle which I have seen, and pictures of 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VI G TORI A. 
 
 29 
 
30 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 Im: 
 
 m 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VlCTOlilA. 
 
 31 
 
32 
 
 NOTES OF A T.1UP 
 
 Black Canon of the Gunnison. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 33 
 
 the Currecanti Needle, the needle of the Black Canon tliffers from the 
 needle of Egypt, as nature from art. 
 
 Next morning, Saturday, August 2d, as we whirl round curves, 
 washing becomes a fine art. Now I hold on to the washstand with 
 one hand, now with both hands. I brace myself against the 
 car, I bump against the water cooler. Washing on the stormy 
 x\tlantic, washing on the crook(Mlest road I have ever yet been on, is 
 nothing to this. Crossing the Alleghanies on roads famous for curves 
 and bends, of horseshoe and other varieties, is nowhere in comparison, 
 " Any fool can build a straight road," said a Pennsylvania expert ;. 
 " but it takes an engineer to build a crooked one." The engineer of 
 a crooked turn must have expended all his genius on these curves ', 
 nothing more in the way of curvature on the spine of this continent 
 can be imagined or endured. 
 
 We come upon washouts, and see where the road would have 
 lain if the mountain torrents had not preempted it without law or 
 leave, and in bold defiance of vested rights and the Constitution of 
 the United States. The river holds its way over the old railway 
 track, and we meekly pass by on a new one, which in the future 
 tfie raging waters, in some mad, whimsical fit, may elect to occupy. 
 Then the railway can again go up higher. Excelsior is a o-ood 
 motto for railway companies in this land of untamed streams and 
 lofty hills. We pass over J 00 miles of what has been described as 
 billowy desert, and the surface has a distant resemblance to the 
 billows of ocean ; but even this scenery is shut in by mountain 
 ranges which take it completely out of the realm of the common- 
 place. 
 
 Six hundred and twenty-four miles from Denver we enter Castle 
 Gate. This entrance, or gateway, to Price River Canon, has two 
 huge red pillars, one 500, and the other 550, feet high. We are 
 now in the Wahsatch range, and are constantly in sight of huo-e 
 and curious forms of rocks bearing resemblances to man and liis 
 works which are common to all cafions which I have seen. We 
 attain the summit of the Walisatch Mountains, and, passing down 
 Soldier Canon, the red narrows, and the beautiful and allurino- 
 Spanish Fork Canon, emerge into Utah valley, bounded by mount- 
 ains on every side. 
 
 The first outlying Mormon settlements have small, hut-like hab- 
 itations, in which it is impossible to imagine comfort of any but 
 the lowest order ; they do not appear to be more than kennels in 
 which to sleep. All this changes rapidly, however, and habitable 
 3 
 
34 
 
 ]\-OTES OF A TIUP 
 
 Currecanti Needle, Black Canon. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTOUIA. 
 
 35 
 
 and attractive building-s begin to appear. The fields everywhere 
 ^ive evidence of thrift and industry. The Mormons and th(i Cliinese 
 seem to have the capacity to get the most out of the soil. Water is 
 utilized all over the valley for purposes of irrigation. Where man 
 is his own providence in the use of water on fields, the results look 
 tio})ical and profuse. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 At Springville, a llourislniiL; piaui', li^-i nines iioiii Denver, I 
 notice a prominent store with tliis legend thereon, " Springville Co- 
 op," and find that it is a Mormon co-operative store. There are 
 ni) real co-operative stores here, nor elsewhere in Utah, on the En- 
 glish plan. They are simply firms with a numerous partnership. 
 The members inherit all the spoils. The customers, who are not 
 
36 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 members, do not share in the profits on the same plan, nor to the 
 same extent, as in England. 
 
 At Provo, we are 689 miles from Denver, and children swarm 
 on the platform with fruit to sell at bankrupt rates. It is offered 
 at an alarming sacrifice when the moment arrives for the train to 
 move. The fine, fresh waters of Utah Lake are in sight. The 
 valley is a scene of beauty, shut in by the snow-capped hills. It 
 is watered by the clear waters of numerous mountain streams natural 
 
 In Spanish ForK Canon. 
 
 and artificial. The farms look like large gardens; grapes and fruits 
 of all kinds abound. The pretty white houses peep out from amid 
 forest trees or rich orchards of liberal area. The river Jordan flows 
 from Utah Lake into Salt Lake; and beyond Provo, we run alongside 
 of it, and keep near it, until we reach Salt Lake City, crossing it 
 when coming in sight of the city, which, in the distance, seems 
 like a beautiful forest, with houses here and there peeping out. It 
 gradually ascends from the valley, and climbs the lower heights of 
 the mountain range. It is more of a forest city than any which I 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VIC TORT A. 
 
 37 
 
38 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 have seen; and, in itself and its location on the side of the hills, it 
 would be called beautiful, anywhere. We can see from the train 
 the Tabernacle, the Assembly Hall, the unfinished Temple and the 
 higher buildino-s. 
 
 From the city, the whole Salt Lake valley is in sight, and much 
 of Salt Lake with its mountain islands. The valley is L^tah valley 
 intensified. It is thoroughly irrigated and cultivated, and almost, 
 if not completely, occupied by settlers. Wheat fields, hay fields, 
 market gardens, cattle ranges, take up the available space. The 
 climate is delightful. It is a land of sunshine and loveliness, where 
 health and plenty cheer the industrious tiller of the soil. It has 
 not been inaptly named " the Eden of the West." 
 
 The Jordan is a dirty stream, and inspires me with no desire to 
 be baptized in it. Wholly or in part, the Jordan, and streams of 
 loftier source and clearer strain, are taken out of their original course 
 and diverted through the city. Water flows next the sidewalks in 
 every street, in some of which it is clear and rapid and always in 
 considerable volume, and in many places, especially in the best resi- 
 dence streets, looks as if it were a natural stream flowing in its own 
 bed. The saints do not much practice watering streets, and the 
 dust is simply inconceivable. Why people so sensible in many 
 other respects should endure such a permanent nuisance and abom- 
 ination as this dust, is a mystery of faith which I fail to penetrate. 
 
 I pass the Amelia Palace, large and imposing, at one time the 
 residence of the favorite wife of Brigham Young, and now the resi- 
 dence of the present chief of the Mormon church. President Taylor. 
 On the opposite side of the street are the Bee-Hive and the Lion 
 House, once residences of Biigham Young. The Lion House now 
 appears to be used as the principal business ofiice of the church. 
 The Bee-Hive is surmounted by an imitation of a bee-hive; and lions, 
 in stone, lie on each side above the entrance to the Lion House. 
 
 In continuation of these, on the same street, and on the same side 
 of the street, and in the same block, are the offices of the Deseret 
 ^ews, the official organ of the church, and the most ably conducted 
 paper in the Territory. Next to these, and continued on a cross street 
 opposite the Temple, are the tithing houses, where the saints pay 
 their tithes in cash or kind. The unfinished temple is surrounded by 
 a high wall, and there was no admittance at the hour at which I 
 passed it. " Commenced April Gth, 1850," is inscribed on it. 
 
 On one side of a tall, long and well-built brick building of 
 spacious breadth, I read " Z. C. M.I," which, being interpreted, 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 39 
 
 nieaiieth " Zion Co-o|)eiative Mercantile Institution." It is more 
 iamiliaily called by saints and sinners the '•'Co-op." This legend 
 adorns its front, "Holiness to the Lord." It does business to the 
 extent ot" millions of dollars anTuially. It is not co-operative in the 
 English sense of that word, but is a partnership concern, two or three 
 rich partnei's holding a controlling interest, and the balance of the 
 stock being scattered among a large number of small holders. It 
 has a ^eputation for keeping on sale good articles, and competes for 
 business against regular merchants on the regular plan of competi- 
 tion, under the usual conditions, and with the usual organi/atif)n and 
 methods of any ordinary business house. 
 
 At one time this institution had a practical monopoly ; but the 
 gentile from without and schism from within the church undermined 
 its power. The Walker Brothers, four in number, descendants of a 
 Mormon, and themselves Mormons, defied and denied the power of 
 Brigham Young. The issue was on tithes. The prophet thought 
 that they paid too little, and demanded more ; but they refused to 
 })ay anything, and took the ground that the office of the prophet and 
 the church was spiritual, not temporal; that the church should not 
 command in commerce and ])olitics ; and that in civil government 
 the United States was supieme. 
 
 In despite of Mormon influence, the Walkers built up an oppo- 
 sition trade to the "great Co-op," and have become wealthy and 
 influential, among other holdings owning the Walker House, the best 
 hotel in the city ; and I was told that they were owners of the 
 Walker Opera House, but have since seen it stated in print that this 
 is owned by the McKenzie Reform Club, a gentile organization. In 
 the battle between the Walkers and the church. Mormons were 
 forbidden to trade at the store owned by the former, and thereupon 
 these lines became popular : — 
 
 " Slotlier, may I no out to shop ? 
 O j'es, my dailing daughter ; 
 But be sure to go to the great Co-op, 
 And don't go near the Walker." 
 
 I ascend to the top of theAValker House, and get a splendid view 
 (jf the city. It has long overpassed the limits which its original 
 founders evidently foresaw for it, if I may infer so much from its 
 having extended beyond the cemetery which lies higher up on the 
 mountain slope. Much farther away still, and in the same direction, 
 lie the United States fort and barracks. The city has kept strag- 
 
40 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
FROM CIIICAOO TO VrCTORIA. 41 
 
 gliiig; out toward the fort, and tho two are nearer iieiglibors now than 
 when first thev mad(^ what promised not to be a pleasant acquaint- 
 ance. It is claimed that the city streets are twice as wide and the 
 blocks twice as long as in other cities, a claim which any one who 
 walks them will not feel disposed to contest. These streets are 
 lined with shade trees, and the residence portion is made beautiful 
 with trees, lawns and flowers, and clear, l)abblino- brooks. 
 
 There are two opera houses, one of Mormon origin and control ; 
 the other owned by Mormon skeptics, who, as already explained, held 
 the inadmissible and heterodox tenet that the church had no right of 
 control in temporal affairs, but only in spiritual ones. Mormons will 
 not go to the heterodox opera house : gentiles will go to either. Con- 
 sequently, to insure the presence of both saints and sinners, a 
 shrewd manager, having ducats in view, engages the Mormon opera 
 house. " Mascotte," by the same company that I had seen playing 
 it in the splendid Tabor Opera House, in Denver, was being played 
 here. Wishing to see a Mormon play-house, I accepted a courteous 
 invitation, and was assigned a stas:e box from which I could have a 
 good view of the house, a most substantial one, like all Mormon 
 public works. [t is !S0 b\' 174 feet, with a seating capacity of 
 
 i,roo. 
 
 Sunday, August 3d. I was urged to make an excursion to Salt 
 r^ake, and bathe in its waters, and told wonders about the invigorat- 
 ing results of such a trip and bath ; but I preferred to go to the 
 Tabernacle. This building stands in what is known as the Temple 
 block, in which also stand the Assembly Hall and the unfinished 
 Temple. It is elliptical, and roofed with a dome of the same form. 
 The latter has been aptly described as resembling an upturned boat. 
 The Tabernacle is 150 feet wide, 250 feet long, and 90 feet high. 
 The organ was pealing forth solemn music as we entered. We took 
 seats two or three rows from the front of the gallery, at the end 
 facing the organ, orchestra and ministering saints at the other end. 
 The organ is, I believe, the largest and finest on the continent save 
 one ; and the well-trained choir, two hundred in number, is said to 
 be the best west of New York. 
 
 The leader appeared to go about his duties in a business-like way, 
 as if he were wielding his baton at a festival or a grand opera. There 
 are twenty very large entrances, fourteen for tlie ground floor, and 
 six for the gallery. The gallery goes all round, heaving only space 
 at one end for the organ and orchestra. In front of the organ sits 
 the choir, ladies on one side facing gentlemen on the other side. In 
 
42 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 the centre, where the auditorium ends on the ground floor, stands the 
 sacrament table, a long table with marble top. Behind it there is a 
 bench of the same length, with seats for about twenty officiating 
 bishops. Behind this, and of the same length, rise three crimson- 
 covered rows with crescent-shaped stand for Bible and hymn book 
 in the centre of each row. These seats are for the highest dignitaries 
 of the church, the president, councilors, presidents of seventies, 
 bishops, etc. On each side of the first of these rows, reposes an 
 iron lion, painted to resemble marble. Still farther away, on each 
 side, repose duplicates of these. 
 
 Behind the dignitaries, and higher up, is the choir, and farther 
 back still, against the wall, the huge oigan. Some of the occupants 
 of the crimson-covered rows were dressed in black, others wore ordi- 
 nar\' business suits of light colors. The seats for the audience, suffi- 
 cient to accommodate 1^,000, were plain wooden ones, with wooden 
 backs not too high. A sketch of a bee-hive adorned the wall behind 
 us. With this exception, the walls were bare. The roof had two 
 skylights, and was festooned with evergreens, and with flowers made 
 of paper. The congregation, in point of intelligence and appearance, 
 seemed to be the average congregation usually to be met with in 
 churches of any denomination, except that it was not so showily and 
 gaudily dressed. Fans fluttered as they do in the hot season in all 
 churches and theatres. 
 
 The service was a funeral one, in memory of " two deceased serv- 
 ants of God, Bishop Leonard W. Hardy and President W. W. 
 Taylor ; " * the latter one of the presidents of seventies, and son of 
 the President of the church, John Taylor. Bishop Hardy had died 
 in harness, full of years and honors, at the ripe age of seventy-eight 
 years and seven months. He was one of two selected to go with 
 President Wilford Woodruff, when, on the death of the Prophet 
 Smith, and his brother Hyrum, he was appointed by the Council of 
 the Apostles to preside over the church in England. President Will- 
 iam Taylor was a young man of about thirty, who had made a repu- 
 tation for himself as an active and able worker in the church, and a 
 member of the municipal government. 
 
 The Mayor and City Council of Salt Lake City attended the 
 services in a body, and accompanied the remains of their respected 
 co-laborer to their last resting place. The bodies had lain on view 
 from 8 A, M. till 10 a. m., and when we entered at the latter hour^ 
 the last of the crowds were passing in front of the sacrament 
 
 * Deaeret Evening News, Monday, Augaist 4, 1884. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORTA. 43 
 
 table, viewing tlie bodies, which h^y tliere in caskets covered with 
 flowers. 
 
 The organ ceased, anil at 10:10 A. >i., President George Q. Can- 
 non, who conducted the services, gave out the liynm — 
 
 " God moves iii a mysterious wa^'," 
 
 which was sung by the choir. President Josepli E. Taylor piiiyed, 
 and the choir sang — 
 
 "Nearer, my God, to thee." 
 
 Then followed eulogies by President Wilford Woodruff, Bishop Rob- 
 ert T. Burton, Piesident Jacob Gates, President A. M. Cannon, 
 President Joseph F. Smith, and President George Q. Cannon. Then, 
 in a quiet and sulidued tone, the head of the church. President John 
 Taylor, closed with a few sentences of consolation and care for the 
 living. The choir sang — 
 
 _ "In the sweet by and by." 
 
 The congregation stood up, and President H. S. Eldredge pronounced 
 the benediction ; and the services, which had lasted over two hours, 
 were ended. 
 
 President George Q. Cannon announced the speakers, as I under- 
 stood, without previous notice to them. As each was called, he 
 stepped to the pulpit stand, in the centre of the low in which In- sat, 
 and spoke from thence. Each excused himself as being unprepared, 
 and as not having expected to be called upon, and said that he would 
 only make a few remarks; and each ended with "for Jesus' sake 
 Amen," — the last words uttered swiftly as the speaker retired to his 
 seat, and not unlike a tired child ending its prayer. 
 
 The impromptu speaking lacked fire, force, enthusiasm and lit- 
 erary finish. No burst of eloquence enlivened the dead level of the 
 talk. There was not even volubility at all times; but there was 
 sameness and slowness, and, with nearly all, hesitations and long, 
 painful pauses, as if the speaker might stick unexpectedly at any 
 moment. The speeches were not grammatical, nor reasoned, nor 
 pathetic: they were the speeches of plain men speaking, in plain, 
 simple words, to plain men. Perhaps there was restraint in them. 
 They were practical, and had a personal interest which held attention. 
 They dwelt on the gain to the departed, which ought to be matter 
 of rejoicing to the bereaved, rather than a cause for selfish grief. 
 The departed had escaped from the evils of this life, and weie beyond 
 the persecutions of the wicked and the power of death, ami .^ataii. 
 
44 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 and sin, and were safe in a land brighter tiian day. The speaking 
 was a kind of jubilation on these topics, which were insisted upon, 
 and were undoubtedly believed, and, to a reasonable extent, exempli- 
 fied. It was enforced, too, that death was sweet to the believer, and 
 bitter to the unbeliever; death was held to have no power over the 
 believer. 
 
 There was very little in the services to distinguish them from 
 those of any orthodox Christian church, and a slightly inattentive 
 listener of such a church might have failed to discover that he had 
 wandered from his own fold. 1 regret that I did not hear President 
 Taylor at greater length. He is said to be an able speaker, which I 
 can readily believe. President George Q. Cannon, too, has a reputa- 
 tion which makes it unfair to judge him by one speech delivered 
 under limited conditions. The same reasons should qualify criticism 
 on all these speeches. Mormonism, I am advised, has able speakers 
 and writers. Personally, I am unable to testify as to the speaking; 
 but as to the writing, at least in the daily press, it is undeniable that 
 the Deseret Evening JSFeios^ the oigan of the church, is edited with 
 consummate ability. 
 
 At the conclusion of the funeral services, the congregation were 
 directed to keep in their seats till the funeral procession had filed 
 out ; and the doors were shut to enforce this order. When the vast 
 audience, numbering about 7,000, was finally allowed to depart, the 
 perfect arrangements for egress enabled the great building to be 
 emptied with the utmost ease and rapidity, and without crowding and 
 hustling. Those on the ground floor, for the most part, moved out 
 in a line as they had sat. 
 
 The acoustic properties are perfect. During the services, people 
 walked out and in and about, babies wailed in all directions, restless 
 little ones roamed about at their own sweet will, no one making 
 them afraid, an uneasy young man behind me kept clawing and 
 kicking at the bench upon which I was seated ; and yet, though 
 almost the entire length of the house from the speakers, I heard 
 them fairly well, scarcely losing a word. On the ground floor a lady 
 fainted, and was carried out at a side door, without the episode 
 stopping the speaker, or preventing the audience from heaiing him. 
 
 It was unbearably hot outside ; but the ventilation Wiis good, the 
 doors were open, and, although little air was stirring, it was utilized, 
 and the church was cool. Huge barrels of ice water stood on the 
 ground floor on each side of the church, at the end near the official 
 stands ; and little folks and big folks handed it round when needed, 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 45 
 
 or thirsty saints and sinners walked up and refreshed themselves 
 " when so dispoged." 
 
 Nowhere have I seen such common sense in building a church, or 
 in conducting a service. For spaciousness, coolness, comfort, ease 
 in hearing, and convenience of exit in case of alarm, it surpasses all 
 public buildings I have seen or of which I have heard. Happy little 
 Mormons were not made to sit still when their little souls were 
 weary for change. They walked about and changed their seats at 
 will. The sweet humanity to children thus exhibited was new to me 
 in churches. I thought of the weary hours of church service in 
 which J had to sit rigid and bolt upright in my childhood days, and 
 regretted that this touch of Mormon humanity had not then been 
 infused into Christian orthodoxy. 
 
 The Tabernacle is strongly built to last, like the Temple, but is 
 not as fine nor as imposing as the Temple, which is built of granite, 
 as if to resist an attack, and stand defiantly forever in spite of man 
 and time and the elements. It is 117 feet wide, 18G feet long, and 200 
 feet high, with walls sixteen feet thick at its base, and nine feet nine 
 inches thick above the surface. Moons and stars are carved on its 
 exterior, and there is still similar work to be done. It is far from 
 completion. It is not to be used as a place of worship, but is to take 
 the place of the present Endowment House, in which the secret 
 services of the church are held, — services which, so far as we liave 
 any light respecting them, appear to resemble the methods and 
 ceremonies of the leading secret societies, with variations of detail 
 and of ritual. 
 
 The Temple is built as, of old, temples were builded to God, — 
 no marble front for show, and the less conspicuous parts of the 
 building of poorer material and meaner detail, as if God could be 
 swindled with a front view. The Mormon Temple is good all through 
 and everywhere ; there is no slop work ; the same material and the 
 same careful finish and thorough workmanship exist uniformly in every 
 part : it is just as good in the rear as in the front, in some out-of-the- 
 way corner as in any part most prominent and most exposed to 
 public view. It is a piece of genuine, honest work ; it is real, and 
 there is no pretense about it. The builders evidently believed 
 in God, and that he is not a God of shams and pretense, which but 
 few builders of churches in modern days appear to do. Nearly all 
 these modern builders palm off on heaven fine fronts, and mean 
 details elsewhere, as if heaven could be taken in with appearances 
 and mere outside looks. The Assemblv Hall, a granite building of 
 
46 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 fine proportions, and the smallest of the three buildings in the 
 Temple block, is for religious and other meetings, the same as those 
 held in the Tabernacle. 
 
 We drove all over the city, past places already named, the 
 tithing houses, through the Eagle Gate entrance to Brigham 
 Young's property, to heights from whence fine views of the city 
 could be obtained, through most attractive residence streets, past 
 comfortable-looking and elegant homes of Mormons. Water flows 
 plenteonsly in every street ; yet dust covers everybody and every- 
 thing. 
 
 At one beautiful Mormon home we stopped. The owner and his 
 wife were in the front. Our driver called out to him that I wished 
 to see his hawthorn trees, which stood at diiferent points in his 
 grounds, and he came forward and courteously invited me in. I 
 apologized for intruding upon him, and explained that I was an 
 Englishman resident in this country the laigest half of my life, and 
 wished to show my daughter, who accompanied me, the hawthorn of 
 the hedges of her father's native land. 
 
 " I am English, too," he said. " What part of England are you 
 from?" 
 
 I answered : " Northumberland; but I have not seen it for twenty- 
 seven years." 
 
 He added : " I am from Yorkshire, and my wife is from London." 
 
 The Hawthorn was not the wild Hawthorn of the " loanins " of my 
 native county, but that with the double flower. He had imported it 
 from England. It served me for a text on which to expatiate to the 
 " Young America " by my side on the glory and the freshness of 
 English May, and I did not omit to glance incidentally at primrose 
 dells, just to show that after all there are some things in the mother 
 country. He made me test his lawn, so soft, so velvety, it seemed 
 almost a sin to use it. I never trod on lawn so perfect, so mossy 
 soft and yielding and elastic. He said that he played bowls on it. 
 
 " You can not get the deep green of England," I said, "■ although 
 you come very near it." 
 
 He assented regretfully. 
 
 The place was loveliness itself, with trailing vines, creepers, 
 flowers, peerless lawn and beautiful trees. Two lines of creepers, 
 forming two sides of a triangle, stretched from the porch to the 
 street, Chinese pattern wise, but many times lovelier in colors than 
 anything made by hand or machinery. His wife smiled when I said: 
 " It is so beautiful, it must be a temptation to sin, and passers-by 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 47 
 
 must break the commandment which saitli ' Thou shalt not covet.'" 
 It was an incomparably hjvely little spot. He showed me enormous 
 strawberries, such as I had never seen before. Many if not all of 
 these Mormons were ])oor in their native land. They are rich here, 
 or comfortably well off beyond any day dream they could reasonably 
 have dreamed in their early, ante-Mormon days. 
 
 We drove past the cemetery, and on to Camp Douglas, past the 
 residence of the commandant, past semicircular rows of ten double 
 houses, making twenty residences of officers, with lawn in front. The 
 soldiers' ((uarters were solid and comfortable, the finest camp I have 
 seen for comfort and for commanding view ; finer than B\)rt Snelling, 
 I think. It has the mountains for a background, and looks over the 
 city, the lake and the whole valley. Uncle Sam seems to have cared 
 for these troops, and especially for their officers. Beyond this camp, 
 and easily in sight, lies the canon by which the Mormons entered 
 Utah. We did not wait to hear the band which plays at 8: 30 p. M., 
 but drove back to the city, meeting on our way carriages going fast 
 to the camp to be in time for the Sunday band concert. The moon 
 was obscured behind clouds, the curtains of night were drawn down 
 very fast, the mountains became dim away in the distance, and the 
 valley disappeared. A view from these heights, of the valley bathed 
 in moonlight, which we had promised ourselves, was denied us. 
 
 On July 24th, 1847, the pioneer Mormons, 143 in number, entered 
 Salt Lake valley. The population now exceeds 150,000, of whom 
 over 135,000 are Mormons. Over 5300,000 acres of land are in culti- 
 vation, and $300,000 per annum are expended in irrigation. Salt 
 Lake City has a population of about 30,000, and covers nine square 
 miles. It is 4,2(51 feet above sea level. 
 
 Monday, August 4th. I had interviews with Bishop John Sharp, 
 Piesident George Q. Cannon and President John Taylor. Bishop 
 John Sliarj) is Vice-President and General Superintendent of the Utah 
 Central Pailway, and a Director of the Union Pacific Railway. I 
 found him at the general offices of the Utah Central Railway. The 
 busy and intelligent officials of these offices are all Mormons. The 
 Bishop is a " canny Scot,'' with plenty of shrewdness, ability and 
 1)usiness capacity; affable, accessible and pleasant to meet, as all 
 these church dignitaries appear to be. He told a good story with 
 quiet and striking effect. From Bishop Sharp we went to the F.ion 
 House, to see Piesident John Taylor. 
 
 While waiting till President Taylor was disengaged, — if he can 
 ■ever be said to be disengaged ; as, from what we saw, the outer 
 
48 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 office and his reception-room seem to be pretty full of visitors all the 
 time, — President George Q. Cannon came out, and engaged us in 
 conversation. He talked pleasingly, and, in a quiet, gentlemanly, 
 unobtrusive vpay, almost without appearing to do it, imparted a fund 
 of information about interesting points in Mormon history. 
 
 As the advance body of Mormons came through the cailon into 
 Utah, Brigham Young, suffering from mountain i'ever, lay on a bed 
 which had been improvised for him in a carriage. He directed the 
 driver to turn the carriage across the road to enable him to see the 
 valley, which lie at once announced to be their destination. He 
 located the city at once, and, the moment lie could rise from his bed, 
 planned the whole city, and determined the site of Tabernacle, Tem- 
 ple, Endowment House, Tithing House, etc. The Tabernacle was 
 built on his plan, and the Temple is being built on his plan. When 
 what he did, and the success of his doings, and the rapidity with 
 which he thought and planned and executed his plans are considered, 
 it is easy to see how his followers could believe in his being inspired. 
 He appears a leader abler than Moses, and having greater difficulties 
 with which to contend. Moses got away from Pharoah and the 
 Egyptians, superstitious and easily befogged, and not very wide- 
 awake ; but Brigham Young got away from and "got away with " 
 this great Yankee people, " the smartest nation in all creation." He 
 plunged into what was then practically the unexplored desert, and 
 dared the dangers of desert, mountains and hostile Indians, — a hos- 
 tile nation behind hiin, hostile savages and unknown dangers and 
 privations before and on all sides of him, his destination undetermined, 
 in an unknown, unexplored land. The story was told of Fremont on 
 his trip across the continent which gave him the title of Pathfinder, 
 mistaking Salt Lake and Utah Lake for one sheet of water, and 
 reporting the lake as being salty at one end, and fresh at the other. 
 
 Speaking of the freedom permitted in church to children, Presi- 
 dent George Q. Cannon said : " We like children, we are very easy 
 with them. Brigham Young did not believe, with Solomon, in birch- 
 ing children, and his example and influence led to great freedom 
 being permitted to them." 
 
 President George Q. Cannon and President Joseph F. Smith, the 
 latter a nephew of the propher Joseph Smith, are respectively first 
 and second councilors of " John Taylor, President of the Church 
 of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints in All the World." President 
 George Q. Cannon was formerly delegate from Utah in the United 
 States Congress, and would have been delegate still if Mormon votes 
 
FROM CIIICAao TO VfCTORTA. 49 
 
 had counted ; but the Mormons have been disfranchised in this 
 country, as Mr. Bradlaugh's constituents have been disfranchised in 
 England. President Cannon gets nearly all the votes; but he is not 
 allowed to take his seat, because he is a polygamist. 
 
 President John Taylor received us very kindly. Three seats 
 stand on a small dais, the centre seat a little higher and a trifle better 
 than the other two. The centre seat is for the President, and the 
 other two for his two councilors. I saw a room full of people 
 evidently waiting to see the President, and I hesitated to occupy his 
 time ; but he did not seem disposed to send us away with a merely 
 formal introduction, and, at his request, I speedily found myself 
 seated alongside of him on the dais. " We are cosmopolitan," he 
 said, " and see many who come, ami are glad to see them." I do not 
 report all he said, as I might do him injustice by not giving his exact 
 language, and his charming confidence and kindness deserve fair 
 play. He is of English birth and descent, and came to this country 
 when very young. There appears to have been some prophecy, or 
 something akin to it, that the cluu'ch would pass under the leadership 
 of the English, which prediction is supposed to have fulfillment in 
 him. He is affable, accessible, imposing in appearance, with a quiet 
 dignity, gentlemanly, courteous, puts his case briefly and well and 
 strictly to the point, says much in little, and is physically aTid men- 
 tally equipped for his office. 
 
 He stated the position of his church and its relations to the 
 country, and what he regarded as persecutions and injustice, calmly 
 and gently, without a hint of hate or passion, as if he were outside 
 of it all and quite disinterested. There was no touch of resentment 
 in tone, manner or look. He is of the highest order of teachers of a 
 new faith. In perfect gentleness of speech and manner he resembles 
 what the sacred books of the East tell us of the speech and manner 
 of Buddha, "the blessed one." There are amiability and benevolence 
 in his countenance, he gives and invites confidence, and 1 felt that I 
 could say anything to him without fear of misconstruction. No 
 portraits of him or of President Cannon, in books or magazines or 
 illustrated papers, do either of them justice. Those of President 
 Taylor make the face too hard, and denude it of all that is gentle 
 and calm and handsome in it. Those of President Cannon give a 
 twist of cuiHiiiig to his features, which I could not find in his 
 face. 
 
 I do not think that justice has been done by outsiders to the 
 secular aspects of Mormonism. Due account has not been taken of 
 4 
 
50 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 61 
 
 the social advancement which has come to the poor of all lands, who 
 have come to Salt Lake to the church, and due credit for this has not 
 been given to the church, A wall runs along in front of the Lion 
 House, which was built for protection from thieves and Indians in 
 the early days of the settlement. But for this wall intervening, the 
 door of the President's room would open directly on the street. All 
 the arrangements are of the utmost sim])licity, and so as to make 
 access easy. There are no barriers, nor anything nor anybody in the 
 way of easy entrance and convenient exit. 
 
 The President's secretary kindly became our guide to Temple 
 and Tabernacle for a closer inspection of these buildings. In the 
 Tabernacle we stood at one end ; at the other end, in front of the 
 organ, a gentleman dropped an ordinary-sized, common, small pin, 
 and we heard it drop. He brushed his hand over the covering of 
 the crimson-covered seats, and we heard that also, A whisper at one 
 end can be heard at the other, and one or two of our party tested 
 that likewise. These facts attest the perfect acoustic properties of 
 the Tabernacle. We were taken to the office of the Deseret JEvening 
 N'eios, the official organ of the church. We missed an interview with 
 the editor, who was not in ; but we met the assistant editor, a man 
 of impressive physique, and said to be a capable speaker and 
 writer. 
 
 At 4:30 p. M. we leave Salt Lake City by the Utah Central 
 Railway for Ogden, thirty-seven miles distant. Twenty miles away 
 from the city we come alongside Salt Lake, forty by ninety miles in 
 extent, and at an altitude of 4,218 feet. We run alongside of it for 
 miles, having its flat, marshy-looking shores on one side, and the 
 mountains on the other. Mormon settlements, flourishing and fair 
 to' see, abound, amid trees and fresh, pleasant surroundings. 
 
 Except from the mouth of a master of speech, or the pen of 
 genius, how impotent are words to define these Western scenes. 
 Such altitudes, such depths, an atmosphere so clear, so rarefied, 
 such radiance of sunlight, night coming on in gorgeous sunsets, 
 tinting the horizon with ever-varying masses of untranscribable 
 colors. Then, when night has come, the moon floods the heavens 
 with a loveliness, and the stars light it with a splendor, unobserved 
 by me elsewhere. To these succeed the splendid surprise of morn- 
 ing, when the sun rises in his strength, and rides like a conqueror 
 over summits white with age and snow. 
 
 We leave Ogden at 5:15 i'. m., and early Wednesday morning 
 are in San Francisco, 842 miles from Ogden. Mondav nio-ht. 
 
52 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 53 
 
 Tuesday and Tuesday iiiiilit are occupied by this portion of our trip. 
 Even alter leaving Ogden, and wliile speedino^ on the journey over 
 the Central Pacific Railway, we still have Salt Lake in sight for some 
 distance. We pass a night camp of Chinese track-men, the offense 
 of which to our nostrils was rank. We are on high table land, with 
 mountains around us, many witli much snow on them. Tuesday we 
 are passing over the alkali plains. Wild sage is their chief product. 
 The alkali dust, penetrating everywhere, and powdering us all over, 
 is an unmitigated nuisance. Jack rabbits occasionally appear ; 
 Indians are seen riding on the platforms of express and baggage cars, 
 and papooses strapped to their mothers' backs. Here and there this 
 alkali plain and sage bush desert presents the charming surprise of 
 little dots of luxuriant tropical vegetation, where at dining or other 
 stations, it has been transformed by irrigation and cultivation. Then, 
 there are fountains and flowers and the dense shade of trees, a 
 delightful oasis in an otherwise barren land. 
 
 Tuesday night we pass the Sierras, and see them not. We also 
 pass through thirty miles of snov^^sheds, which we do not regret 
 passing at night. In the early hours of the morning we are in 
 Sacramento City, and see somewhat of the attractive Sacramento 
 valley. Soon we are running by the inland waters of the Pacific, 
 an<l now are at Oakland, cross by ferry to San Francisco, and 
 take up our temporary abode at the Palace Hotel. On this trip I 
 frequently heard the word "globe-trotters" applied to travelers who 
 go long distances, or round the world. The inland waters of the 
 Pacific, extending back from San Francisco, are extensive enough to 
 entitle them to the distinction of being regarded as a separate ocean. 
 The Palace Hotel is seven stories high, with accommodations for 
 a formidable army. Carriages drive under cover right into the 
 centre of the building in front of the hotel office. From the galleries 
 of each story of this large quadrangle you can look down on 
 the bustle and rush of numerous arrivals and departures. Elevators 
 convey you from floor to floor, without your having to undergo the 
 labor of climbing stairs. 
 
 It was night before we could find time to visit the Chinese 
 quarter. There are 40,000 Chinese in San Francisco, most of whom 
 are jjacked in one quarter. The sidewalks were crowded, and the 
 interiors were literally packed. This quarter of the city is entirely 
 given up to "the heathen," and we might just as well be in the 
 Celestial Empire as here. 
 
 In this (|uarter we saw a building which was once the leading 
 
54 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 hotel in San Francisco. It is so no more. No hotel depending- 
 upon the patronage of the general public can exist in the Chinese 
 quarter. The general public would not locate there even tempo- 
 rarily. Nothing that esteems itself white and good will dwell in this 
 Nazareth. Chinese merchants can pack more merchandise and crowd 
 more assistants in a giv^en space than any white man can do. We 
 explored one store, and were courteously received. Every available 
 niche was filled up with merchandise, or had "a pagan " jammed in 
 it, busy as a bee over books or correspondence. We visited a jos& 
 house, and were just becoming interested in the explanations and the 
 marvels of engraving and carving which adorned it, when one of our 
 party was overcome with the odor of the incense, and we beat an 
 unceremonious retreat. 
 
 Our next visit was to a tea-garden. The charge for a cup of tea 
 in a first-class tea-garden is just a trifle exorbitant ; but then, we 
 were notified, the moment we ordered tea, what the charge would be. 
 This is a refinement of fair play unusual outside of paganism. We 
 quickly discovered that we had never tasted tea before. It is a 
 celestial drink as made by " the heathen Chinee," and a much finer 
 article of tea than is furnished to barbarians through the usual 
 channels of trade. The Mongolian makes it in a way of his own, and 
 the art of making tea still continues to be a monopoly of his. 
 
 We did not see the worst of this Chinese quarter. That, I am 
 told, is indescribable. Opium dens abound, and smells are too 
 pronounced for the most callous nostrils. If plague should come,, 
 the presence of this unsavory, closely packed crowd, would be a 
 menace to public health. I was afterward taken through streets of 
 low resort which my guide informed me were more dangerous than 
 any in the Chinese quarter. These were occupied by French outcasts. 
 
 " Frisco," as the people of the far West delight to call the great 
 city of the Pacific coast, is a city set upon several hills and in nu- 
 merous valleys. It is well provided with large and elegant hotels, 
 and beautiful and roomy street cars run everywhere. The street 
 car lines are run by underground cable, the most practicable method 
 where such heights have to be ascended. I have not seen as good 
 street cars in any other city. Flowers grow like weeds in this 
 " glorious climate." 
 
 Friday, August 8th. We left Frisco at 3:30 p. m., for Monterey, 
 135 miles distant. We pass Belmont and Menlo Park, the lovely 
 Santa Clara valley, and its metropolis, San .lose, and fields in which 
 the industrious "Chinee" is gathering up all the fat of the land. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 56 
 
56 NOTES OF A TRTP 
 
 At 7:25 r. m., we alight at a pretty little station in a land of flowers. 
 The Hotel Del Monte is close at ham], " in a grove of 126 acres of 
 oak, pine, spruce and cypress trees, and within a quarter of a mile 
 of the beach." In the large hall of this great hotel, in a fireplace 
 of generous dimensions, a log fire was blazing. The daintiest rooms 
 daintily furnished look out on flower gardens which realize dreams of 
 fairy land. Seven thousand acres of land are held in connection with 
 this hotel, through which are twenty-five miles of carriage drives. 
 We were told that we ought to see this and all California in winter, 
 when flowers and everything else are finer than in summer. It is a 
 paradise of flowers which bloom all the year round. 
 
 Saturday, August 9th, we took a drive of many miles, through 
 the lovely grounds of the Hotel del Monte, and outside of them to 
 the seashore, past a large bathing house, and through Monterey and 
 Pacific Grove, a village of tents and seaside residences, a famous 
 bathing resort " open all the year round," to Cypress Point, Surel}^ 
 and not very slowly goes on the progress of reclaiming the sandy 
 wastes on the seaside of Hotel del Monte, and turning their barren- 
 ness into trees and flowers. 
 
 At Monterey we see the hotel at which Fremont took up his 
 quarters after his trip across the continent, in 184(3, which won for 
 him the title of " the Pathfinder," and was the first step in fame 
 which led to his being afterward nominated as the Republican can- 
 didate for president. With thought of Fremont comes his wife, the fa- 
 mous daughter of a famous father. Senator Benton, whose statue stands 
 in La Fayette Park, St. Louis, who was one of the earliest, if not the 
 earliest, advocates of a railroad across the continent to the Pacific. 
 It was he who, in reference to this track across the continent, and 
 pointing westward, said, " There is the East : there is India." 
 
 There is — 
 
 WHALING AT MONTEREY. 
 Monterey Argun, August 2. 
 
 The whalers shot a large female whale during the week ; but she sunk in 
 about forty-five fathoms, and they will have to wait for her to come to the sur- 
 face, which will take about three days. She is accompanied by her calf, which 
 they expect to capture. Soon after shooting this one, they espied the male, 
 and, giving chase, soon sent a bomb into his body. They were more successful 
 in this instance; for the monster made for the bay, and towed the boats a con- 
 siderable distance toward the place before he died. This one was more con- 
 siderate than his mate; for he floated when life was extinct. He is a monster, 
 measuring over eighty feet in length, and is known to the whalers as the 
 "sulphur bottom." A large number of people from Monterey and Pacific 
 
FROM CniCAOO TO VICTORIA. 57 
 
 Grove visited tlie whaierj- Thursday, aud sat on the beach watching the men 
 remove the blubber. They expect to get seventj' or eighty barrels from him. 
 This is one of the largest whales ever caught in this section. 
 
 In Monterey we saw also the old Custom House, with its ancient 
 flag-staff, on which the flag of the United States was first floated in 
 California when the latter was ceded to the Union. We saw, too, 
 the old fort and barracks, and the now somewhat wrecked looking 
 building in which the collective wisdom of California once sat, for 
 Monterey was once the capital of this State. 
 
 In 1849, when Bayard Taylor was here, it looked to him at first 
 as "a deserted town." It has not quite lost tliat look yet. Then 
 buildings " rented for :i5l,200 monthly," and rooms for $200 monthly, 
 and " a lot 75 feet by 25 feet, with a small frame store upon it, was 
 sold for 85,000. A one-story house, with a lot about 50 by 75 feet, 
 in the outskirts of the town, was held at |G,000. This was about 
 the average rate of property." Monterey has not fulfilled the hopes 
 of its early days, when it was assumed to have advantages which San 
 Francisco had not, and was expected, in some respects, to become a 
 rival of San Francisco. It was to be one of the great cities, if not 
 the great city, of the Pacific coast. It is now a fishing village and 
 a pleasure resort, only that, and nothing more ; but it has the 
 loveliest site in the world, and its climatic advantages are beyond 
 question. 
 
 By the roadside, close to a point at which we crossed a small 
 stream, there was a wooden cross inscribed "July 3, 1770." We are 
 told that it marks the spot where the first service of the church was 
 performed by the first Jesuit missionary. At Cypress Point, we take 
 in a long sweep of Pacific shore. We look from the rocky height on 
 the waters of the Pacific dashing about the rocks, and sprinkling 
 Pelican Rock with its spray. Flocks of pelicans cover the rocks, and 
 sail above the waters from rock to rock. Sea-lions popped up their 
 heads, and made their presence known audibly. One looked intjuir- 
 ingly, and I think had it in his mind to ask us of his relatives which 
 we had left behind us in Lincoln Park, Chicago, not far from our 
 doorstep. It is from this coast the sea-lions are recruited for this 
 Chicago park. 
 
 Our drive lay through pine forests and cypress groves of intense, 
 pleasing and healthful odors. The high winds have flattened these 
 cypresses, and bent and twisted and battered branches and leaves 
 into one compact mass of fantastic forms. The shade is thick 
 and perfect. California lilac and wild flowers met the eye every- 
 
58 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 59 
 
 where. Spanish moss lightly veiled trees. We had pointed out 
 to us a creeping plant known as " Poison Oak," and were told 
 fearful tales thereof. To some persons, to touch it is to absorb 
 its poison. Very sensitive persons absorb the poison by merely 
 passing near the plant. Our driver was skeptical as to this. He 
 held that the wind must blow something of it against any passer-by 
 in any case in which the latter cauglit the poisonous infection. " The 
 fastest train on the Pacific coast" took us into San Francisco in time 
 for a late dinner. 
 
 Sunday, August 10th. We went to the Clitf House, to look from 
 its veranda on the rocky shores of the Pacific far below, and to see 
 one of the great sights of San Francisco, — the crowds of sea-lions 
 disporting in the water, and barking at nothing in particular. The 
 waters were alive with them, and the rocks which were not preempted 
 by sea-gulls were covered with them. They look their prettiest in 
 the water, and their movements are swift and not ungraceful. They 
 climb upon the rocks in the clumsiest way, and waddle down them 
 and roll oif them clumsily and ludicrously. When they lie on the 
 rocks, as they do until they dry, they look to the eye as so many 
 brown skins lying drying in a rather eccentric tannery.* 
 
 We diverged to a fine, large park, with drives and romantic 
 pathways, and an endless array of flowers and bedding plants, and 
 shrubbery and trees, and wild woods and greensward of the greenest, 
 kept so by unwearied sprinkling. Frisco empties out its thousands 
 on Sundays to Oakland, Alameda, Cliff" House, etc. We crossed the 
 bay by ferry to Oakland to visit friends. We went a few miles by 
 rail, and then had a carriage drive of many miles through all that 
 pleasant suburb and the fair land that lies all around it. Outside of 
 Oakland's beautiful streets and splendid residences inclosed in lovely 
 grounds, we were impressed with the fruit farms and the wealth and 
 profusion of flowers. Eucalyptus trees of Australia, beautiful and 
 
 * The following is from a San Francisco dispatch of August 15th, iu the 
 Chicago Tiibune of August IGth, 1885 : "The question of the destruction of 
 food lish in the harbor by SL-a-lioiis has been discussed very often in connection 
 with the diminution of the supply. An effort is now being made to secure all 
 the evidence obtainable on this point. Fish Commissioner Redding has 
 appointed a commission to take the testimony of experts. Should the report 
 sustain the position of the fishermen, it is probable that the law forbidding the 
 killing of sea-lions will be repealed. If this is done the Seal Rocks of the 
 Cliff House, near the Golden Gate, one of the most famous resorts on the 
 Pacific coast, where hundreds of seals and sea-lions daily bask in the sun, will 
 soon be deprived of tlie only attractions for tourists." 
 
60 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 tall and straight, abound. They are said to preclude malaria, and 
 are cultivated as a protection to health. But nothing is safe from 
 slander and detraction, not even this delight of the eye and defense 
 against malaria, and I read in a newspaper : — 
 
 THE FALL OF AN IDOL. 
 
 The eucalyptus tree has hitherto been in favor for its anti-malarial prop- 
 erties, which are especially familiar in Australia, where it is one of the loftiest 
 of timber trees. It has, however, lately lost favor in the province of San Pedro, 
 Brazil, from the belief that it stimulates the generation of a poisonous dragon 
 fly, which attacks ail living creatures, to which its sting is fatal in a few 
 minutes. The destruction of all eucalyptus trees has therefore been ordered 
 in San Pedro. 
 
 San Pedro may have a demoralizing atmosphere, and evil com- 
 munications may have there corrupted the good manners of the 
 eucalyptus tree ; but, in the virtuous soil and " glorious climate of 
 California," it retains its pristine qualities and the good opinion of 
 the citizens, adorns the landscape, and remains a thing of beauty. 
 Redwood is largely used in California for building. Of this species of 
 " Mammoth California Trees," the Santa Clara, Cal., Republican says : 
 
 A redwood tree cut in this county furnished all the timber for the 
 Ba]5tist Church in Santa Rosa, one of the largest church edifices in the county. 
 The Interior of the building is finished in wood, tliere being no plastered walls. 
 Sixty thousand shingles were made from the tree after enough was taken for 
 the church. Another redwood tree, cut near Murphy's mill, in this county, 
 about ten years ago, furnished shingles that required the constant labor of two 
 indusliious men for two years before the tree was used up. 
 
 It was incessantly dinned in our ears, that, to see California 
 aright, we ought to see it in winter. Then there would be no fogs, 
 the mountains would be green, and everything fresher and fairer. 
 Even the flowers would be lovelier, and there would be other and 
 finer varieties of them. At Monterey it was said. Come in winter if 
 you wish to see Monterey when it is loveliest, and the whole land at 
 its best. What a land, with an equable atmosphere and flowers all 
 the year round. 
 
 As we first approached Frisco by rail, running alongside the 
 inland waters of the Pacific Ocean, we had noticed grain in sacks 
 ])iled in the open air, without any protection. At the extreme ends of 
 long wharves running far out into the water, it was similarly piled. At 
 that time of the year, there was no danger from rain, and none from 
 winds coming to ruffle the vasty deep. It was a novelty to be in a 
 land of such absolute certainty as to visitations of wind and rain. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 61 
 
 Monday, August lltli. At K) a.m., we take passa<ie on the 
 Queen of tlie Pacific, one of a line of steamers running between 
 Frisco and Tacoma, at the head of Puget's Sound, via Victoria, 
 Vancouver's Island, British Columbia. Our objective point was 
 Portland, Oreojon, and our original plan was to go direct by steamer 
 running via Columbia river ; but we were told that it was rough 
 crossing the bar at the mouth of the Columbia, and that the route via 
 Victoria would take but a day longer, that the steamers were finer, 
 that we would have more of the Pacific Ocean, and sights of greater 
 interest, and we were persuaded. 
 
 We were told of the fine view of Frisco which we would have while 
 sailing over the bay, and out of the Golden Gate into the great ocean 
 beyond; but one of Frisco's solid fogs came down, and covered all 
 the land, and bay, and sea, and our view was, consequently, an 
 extremely limited one. We see the defenses being erected at the 
 narrow passage known as the Golden Gate. The shores are soon hid 
 by fog, and remain hid until 10 a. m., next day, Tuesday, August 
 12th. The fog blocks our view, and restricts it to a few feet of 
 water. At last it clears rapidly, like a veil lifted, and miles of sea 
 sparkling in sunlight are revealed. The sun on the water is most 
 dazzling. The shore comes out into sight. At starting, it was rocky; 
 now it seems to be sand-hills, with higher hills behind. Birds of 
 strong wing, pelicans and sea-gulls are following us. Numerous 
 whales come in sight; but we miss them. 
 
 The first night we were advised to lie with our state-room door 
 open. At half past 10, electric lights in state-rooms are extinguished. 
 The watchman goes his steady rounds all night. Our state-room 
 faces out to sea, and it is but one step from it to the side of the 
 steamer. We lie with the Pacific Ocean at our sleeping-room door, 
 and look out on it and its fogs, and listen to its dashings, which have 
 a never-failing charm for me. Of the sound of ocean, like love lor 
 the beloved, you can not define the charm ; but all the more exqui- 
 sitely you feel it. The Pacific Ocean is not always as pacific as its 
 name might imply. We listened to terrible stories about its wrath 
 from old voyagers who had made trips to and from China; and our 
 experience was not all serene. Monday we had wind and fog; Tues- 
 day morning, fog again, till suddenly it lifted, and the sun shone over 
 miles of sparkling water. Then the ocean became as smooth as a 
 village pond. Tuesday night we had wind and rain. Wednesday 
 morning it was scjually, but there was no sea to talk about. 
 
 Not many sail were seen. Monday and Tuesday we saw none; 
 
62 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 "Wednesday we saw a steamer and two sailing vessels. We kept on 
 the lookout for whales, and on Wednesday, about 6 P. M., were 
 rewarded by seeing them in any number, spouting and plunging in 
 all directions, on all sides of us, near and far. Where sea and sky 
 met, we saw a column of water spouting up to the heavens above, 
 and immediately the huge figure of a whale was outlined on the 
 horizon. 
 
 Much attention was paid to the comfort of passengers, more than 
 
 I had ever experienced before. The captain came round daily about 
 
 II A. M. to inspect and inquire if all was right, watchmen inspected 
 every night after the electric light was extinguished, and waiter and 
 stewardess were round between G and 7 a. jr., with tea or coffee and 
 toast, and to find out if we were going to breakfast. They came 
 round after every meal to find out if we had been at it, and if we 
 wished for anj'thing. 
 
 Early Thursday morning, August 14th, we are in Victoria harbor, 
 having accomplished our short sea voyage of about seven hundred 
 and fifty miles. A. had telegraphed us before we left Frisco that 
 he would come on from Portland, and meet us here. I was speedily 
 on the dock, notwithstanding a mocking intimation that I need not 
 expect him at that hour, and I surely could not expect that he would 
 sit up all night waiting our arrival. Teamsters and cabbies in 
 crowds assailed me ; but I heeded not their cry, and kept steadily 
 threading my way past them. Soon an open carriage came dashing 
 swiftly down the steep road to the dock. It clearly had a mission, 
 and 1 was sure that it was to me. I discerned a familiar figure, and 
 soon a well-known voice said, " I am glad you have come." 
 
 Our steamer was to lie there until noon, and then go on its way 
 to Tacoma; but A. decided that I had business to which to attend, 
 people and sights to see, and must remain all day in Victoria, and go 
 to bed at night in the steamer Olympian, of the Oregon Railway & 
 Steam Navigation Company, which would leave early next morning 
 for Tacoma, thus enabling me to make the whole trip from Victoria 
 in daylight. 
 
 Vancouver's Island seemed to me the same as California, except 
 in bustle and rush. Victoria seemed a city in Lotos Land. Nobody 
 who was anybody got up early in the morning, and nobody was in a 
 hurry. Even the newspapers appeared to be published for the name 
 of the thing, and not for any news which they contained. They were 
 as absolutely devoid of news, foreign or domestic, as perhaps it is 
 permitted to a newspaper to be. There was nothing sensational 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 68 
 
 about them except their price, which was ten cents a paper. That 
 Victoria can digest its daily press and survive the operation speaks 
 volumes for the healthiness of its climate. The deadness and dull- 
 ness of the papers transcend description and baffle conception. 
 
 Vancouver is mountainous and beautiful, with rocky and wooded 
 shores. We took a lono; inland, woodland, rural drive. Our drive 
 included the Navy Yard, in which were English vessels of war, and 
 took us past gardens and farms, with flowers and fruit, which seemed 
 California over again. The Chinese excel in field culture here, as 
 they do everywhere. We drove through the grounds, and past the 
 residence of the Lieutenant Governor. In the grounds a convict 
 gang were working on the carriage drive. Splendor and squalor, 
 rank and crime, come into close contrast in all lands. We stopped 
 at the Driard House, an unrivaled hotel. I do not think that it has 
 its superior in table anywhere. 
 
 Victoria is the capital of British Columbia, which is one of the 
 provinces of the Dominion of Canada. Like the province of Ontario, it 
 has only one House of Parliament, and seems, like Ontario, to get 
 along with one house just as well, and a great deal cheaper, if not a 
 great deal better, than provinces and states that can not exist without 
 a House of Representatives and a Senate. Why the people should 
 elect a House of Commons and a Senate to check, and hold in 
 rein, and delay, and embarrass, the House of Commons, is one of 
 those mysteries which can only be solved iiy referring it to the wis- 
 dom of our ancestors. 
 
 The government buildings, six in number, are built of brick, are 
 ornamental, pretty, and rather toyish in appearance. In the House 
 of Representatives, which was not in session, there were twenty-five 
 seats, one seat in excess of the number of members. On the edge of 
 the government grounds, close to the highway, stands a granite shaft 
 on a granite base, with this inscription : — 
 
 Erected \\\ tue People of 
 
 British Coixmbia 
 
 TO the memory "of 
 
 Sir James Douglas, K. C. B., 
 
 Governor 
 
 AND 
 
 Commander in Chief 
 from 
 
 1851 to 18G4. 
 
64 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 What is fame? Outside of British Columbia, who has heard of 
 this famous man in whose honor this stately column lifts its lofty 
 head? 
 
 Victoria has a fine location, has 8,000 inhabitants, and, when Par- 
 liament is in session, must l)e a trifle livelier than when I walked its 
 streets. On one street corner there was a sign with a famous name : — 
 
 General Berlin 
 
 Assortment of MRS. SHAKESPEARE. and Zephyr 
 
 Fancy Goods. Wools. 
 
 The next day I saw, in New Tacoma, a reminder of Dickens in 
 the name of the " Weller House;" and later, in Portland, 1 had a 
 reminder of Thackeray in the " Esmond House," at which I put up. 
 I am sorry to say, that since then, this, the finest hotel in Portland, 
 has been totally destroyed by tire. 
 
 The Canadian government had a commissioner in Victoria hearing 
 evidence on the Chinese question. There are 18,000 Chinese in British 
 Columbia, and 3,000 of these in Victoria. The commissioner elicited 
 the fact that the low Chinese are very dirty and very bad, just as 
 dirty and bad as low white people. The real crime of " the heathen " 
 is not his vice and his dirt, in which he does not excel white outcasts, 
 but that he works for less money, and can live upon less, than a 
 white man. The real question to be determined is: Shall he, by his 
 cheap labor, drive the white laborer to the wall? That is not the 
 way the politicians state it, and that is not the cry raised ijy those 
 who yell the loudest that the Chinese must go; but it is the exact 
 position. 
 
 It is not a question of vice, or disease, or opium habits. It is a 
 question of whether the cheap Mongolian shall replace the dear Cau- 
 casian. It is a question of race, and survival of the fittest and best, 
 and must be met and dealt with in that way some day. This Chi- 
 nese question is a burning one on the Pacific coast; but hitherto there 
 seems to have been some hesitancy in dealing with it plainly and 
 bluntly. Everywhere that the Chinaman is met, he confirms what 
 Bayard Taylor wrote of him over thirty years ago, " He has the one 
 virtue of industry, and his cheap habits of life enable him to get a 
 profit out of bars deserted by the white miners, and soil scorned by 
 the white farmers." 
 
 People engaged in the ordinary avocations of life go everywhere 
 nowadays. Traveling is no longer the exclusive privilege of the 
 rich or adventurous, or those having ample leisure. It is undertaken 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 65 
 
 for pleasure, for information, for business ; by the busy, the over- 
 worked, the most inadventurous. An excursion to Alaska had 
 passed a few days before my advent in Victoria. It left Portland, 
 Oregon, about the first of August ; and it was calculated that 
 the trip from Portland to Alaska and return, giving sufficient time for 
 sight-seeing, would take but twenty-one days. The fare was only $95. 
 About one hundred people took advantage of this excursion, seventy- 
 five of whom were school teachers spending their vacation. Tliey 
 had been in attendance at the National Convention of Teachers held 
 in Madison, Wisconsin. After the convention adjourned, the 
 teachers scattered in all directions on pleasure trips before returning 
 to their homes. 
 
 I had looked upon Alaska as being almost inaccessible, and 
 waked up to find it an ordinary pleasure resort, to which you 
 can buy cheap round-trip tickets, just as you can buy them to 
 any other pleasure resort. This is one result of the building of the 
 Northern Pacific Railroad, and its being officered and operated by 
 wide-awake citizens, who omit no chance to open new avenues 
 of travel and develop new sources of traffic. Excursions to the 
 Yellowstone National Park and to Alaska are of their invention. 
 
 Some of these teachers, iVlaska excursionists, on their return trip 
 overtook me at the Dalles, Oregon, and I found out from them that 
 our received ideas about Alaska stand in need of considerable 
 revision. They were so charmed with their trip that they laid plans 
 at once for another one in 1885. 
 
 Just before I left home I had a letter from .Jerusalem, insisting 
 that I must go there ; and I was told by another friend to consider 
 myself under contract to visit the Yellowstone region within a 
 reasonable period. On my way west, I received a telegram 
 reminding me that I had agreed whenever called upon to make a 
 trip to Mexico. If that Alaska excursion had not gone, I should 
 have been strongly tempted to join it. When we first set out from 
 Chicago, we had about determined not to go west of Colorado, — at 
 any rate not to go beyond Salt Lake ; but, by taking advice 
 and yielding to persuasion, we found ourselves at last in Victoria, 
 the farthest point at which we touched. 
 
 Friday, August 15th. Last night we occupied state-rooms 
 on the steamer " Olympian," and, before going to bed, I had a moon- 
 light view of the bay in which our steamer lay. I was up between 
 4 and 5 ; but, before I could get washed and dressed, the steamer 
 got under way, and so rapidly that we were out of the harbor before 
 6 
 
66 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 I could get on deck. In about two hours we had steamed across the 
 straits, which were cahn and smooth as a pond, the beautifully 
 wooded shores of Vancouver were receding from view, and we were 
 in Puget's Sound, " the Mediterranean of the Northwest." The 
 snowy head of lofty Mount Baker was just visible through a rift in 
 fleecy clouds. 
 
 Our first stop was at Port Townsend, Washington Territory, a 
 fine location, with business houses and hotels on the shore close to 
 the water, and residences on the highlands, which rise steep and 
 abrupt from the narrow strip of land at their feet between them and 
 this inland sea. From the mouth to the head of the sound at 
 Tacoma, W. T., is about one hundred and fifty miles. There was 
 everj'where ample breadth, which sometimes counted by miles. It 
 was novel to me to find myself on this great inland salt-water sea, 
 hemmed in by lofty and beautifully wooded mountains and highlands; 
 and I remained on deck all day except during dinner, enjoying the 
 varied scenes which presented themselves in one long and enchanting 
 panorama. The reflected rays of the sun had given my face the 
 dark red tint of the Indian before I reached Tacoma. Dinner was 
 considerately served in a saloon, the windows of which commanded 
 both sides of our course, and the way by which we had come, so 
 that no sight-seeing was lost to us. Of constant recurrence were 
 immense outlets on each side of us, stretching away we knew not 
 how far, and as broad or broader than that in which we were plow- 
 ing our way. 
 
 Of picturesque places on the sound, where all were picturesque, 
 Seattle, W. T., was the most prominent; rising from the water, ex- 
 tending right back on the hills, showing to the utmost advantage its 
 charming residences, and fine business blocks, and public buildings, 
 and, most to its credit, largest and most striking, its public schools 
 and university buildings, splendid and imposing. Nothing in the 
 place was quite as good as these halls of learning, and it is needless 
 to say that Seattle commanded at once unhesitating respect. 
 
 We had two or three hours of daylight left when we reached New 
 Tacoma, W. T., at the head of navigation and the sound. We took 
 rooms at " The Tacoma," an imposing palatial structure, splendidly 
 furnished, and in grounds tastefully laid out. It stands, as nearly 
 all New Tacoma stands, high above the sound; and the best views of 
 the city and surrounding country can be obtained from it. Beyond 
 all comparison, it is the largest and best building in the place, and 
 is one of the most comfortable hotels in the country. It was built 
 
FROM CHICAOO TO VICTORIA. 67 
 
 and is maintained to popularize New Tacoma, and was not expected 
 to pay; but it does pay. New Tacoma is perhaps the foremost city 
 on the sound. Old Tacoma is over the hills, in another bay. But the 
 two places are gradually nearing each other, and have been incor- 
 porated as one city. 
 
 As we drove over to Old Tacoma, Saturday, August 16th, we 
 found workmen cutting away and burning the forest, and improving 
 the communications by road, leveling and straightening it out. The 
 road stood in need of widening. There was no room to pass, except 
 at special points ; and we had to stop till a team got out of our way, 
 and sometimes we had to keep others waiting in the same way for us. 
 These passing points were utilized by teamsters for purposes of 
 gossip, and we were kept waiting at one point till two who were 
 ahead of us had exchanged news with each other and departed 
 on their separate Avays. There is a large waste of timber going 
 on in this country, where much is burnt merely to get it out of 
 the way. 
 
 The most noticeable thing in Old Tacoma was the bell tower of 
 the Episcopal Church. It is simply a tree with the top sawn off even, 
 and the bell fixed thereon. The Episcopal Church is a shanty adorned 
 with a cross. The aesthetic fever has reached New Tacoma, and we 
 saw several "dude" houses, pleasantly diversifying the ordinary 
 sameness of city architecture. Mr. C. B. Wright, of Philadelphia, 
 has given §50,000 as an endowment fund to the Annie Wright 
 Seminary for Young Ladies, a large three-story building which he 
 has erected in New Tacoma. Next to " The Tacoma," this seminary 
 is the best building in the place. It is named after a daughter of 
 Mr. Wright. He has also erected, at his own expense, an Episcopal 
 church, which has cost him 1:^5,000 ; and he lias projected an 
 educational institution for young men, which he will endow with 
 850,000. He is, I believe, interested in " The Tacoma," and other 
 citv property, as well as in the railways here, and is fully dis- 
 charging, with lavish hand, all the duties Avhich property owes to 
 a community. 
 
 New Tacoma is well provided with schools. An election was in 
 progress while I was there. In the Third Ward four names of 
 ladies headed four gentlemen on the nomination ticket. This was 
 probably reversed when election day came. Extensive fires had 
 swept away blocks, and much building was going on. Iron foun- 
 dries, at an expense of 62,000,000, are to be established, and to give 
 employment to ^,000 people. 
 
68 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 The veranda of " The Tacoma" looks down upon the head-Avaters 
 of the inland sea-waters, which here lose themselves in shallow 
 grass and marsh. I sat for an hour or more looking down upon this 
 farthest advance inland of these Pacific floods, and at the opposite 
 shore, wooded and hilly ; at the Indian mission and school in the 
 distance ; at Mount Tacoma, formerly Mount Rainier, about sixty- 
 seven miles away, 14,o00 feet high, forty miles in circumference at 
 its base, and with a superficial area of 1,000 miles. Thick clouds 
 "wrapped all of it except its head and base, and there was more 
 snow upon it than on any mountain which I have seen. In the 
 intervening woods, near the city, lies an enchanted land of diives 
 and lakelets. 
 
 While I sat, a young bear belonging to the hotel grounds began 
 to climb the veranda steps, possibly with the intention of opening 
 social relations with me. He was not a bear of determined character, 
 but was rather hesitating. He deliberated at every step, debating 
 every move. About half way up he took a vote and decided 
 to return. At the foot he reconsidered the motion, turned his face 
 upward, raised his paws on the first step, took them down again to 
 think it over another time, pondered profoundly and heavily, 
 scratched his head and clawed out an idea, and turned and departed. 
 Afterward he came again a few times, but could never make up his 
 mind what course to take : he was a bear of a very undecided turn 
 of mind. I did not care for his company anyway. 
 
 Mr. Ackley, formerly of North Shields, now employed on a city 
 paper here, called, and introduced himself as a Northumbrian. I had 
 a most pleasant interview with him. He knew many known to me in 
 Newcastle-upon-Tyne and the North of England. 
 
 New Tacoma has a Chinese quarter with a population of about 
 five hundred. 
 
 Saturday, August IGth, at G P. M., we leave Tacoma by train. 
 We go 105 miles by rail, and at 11 p. m., at Kalama, we take the 
 steamer, and do the remaining thirty-eight miles by river. We are 
 in Portland early next morning, Sunday, August 17th. 
 
 Portland has a population of 40,000, of which 10,000 are Chinese; 
 it has "go" enough in it for a city of twice its population. Its 
 traffic by rail and river is very large. East Portland, on the 
 opposite side of the Willamette, is a considerable place. Twelve 
 miles onward is the junction of the Willamette and Columbia rivers, 
 the latter being the " Oregon " of old writers. Seventy years ago 
 Bryant wrote, — 
 
FROM CHIC AOO TO VICTORIA. 
 
 69 
 
70 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 ' ' Take the wings 
 Of moruiug, traverse Barca's desert sands, 
 Or lose thyself in the continuous woods 
 Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound 
 Save his own dashings." 
 
 These lines are the perfect expression of complete solitude, and 
 they have always invested the Oregon to me with all the hues 
 of romance. They clung to my memory, and would not let me 
 forget them, nor the mighty stream they celebrated, and there came 
 a haunting wish to see it. Since the poet wrote, change has come to 
 the Columbia, and fleets sweep over it, and trains rush along its shores, 
 which are lined with farms and villages and salmon canneries, and at 
 its mouth Astoria stands sentry. 
 
 Monday, August 18th, I devote to business and other visits, and 
 drives in Portland, its parks and suburbs. Splendid, substantial, 
 solid business blocks and beautiful residences abound. For a city of 
 its size it has an amazing number of fine private residences. There 
 was one fine street, palatial and pleasing. There live the pioneers, 
 all in a row. They '' came here in the forties," said my informant, 
 and they sat still and grew rich because they couldn't help it. They 
 had the land, and in the heart of this city it became valuable. 
 
 The drive to the City Park was like the ascents on the Denver 
 & Rio Grande Railroad; we went up and up, and round and round, 
 track above track, until we attained the highest point in the park, 
 from whence we looked down upon Portland and wide spaces of 
 landscape. Up a glorious ravine, and by roads like the road to the 
 park, we drove out to the beautiful residence and grounds of hos- 
 pitable Mr. Schultze, the Land Commissioner of the Northern Pacific 
 Railroad. Forest fires away in the distance obscured the land, and 
 prevented us from seeing all that we had been led to expect to see 
 from this eminence. Mount Hood, the lion of the land, was not 
 visible. It was the only famous mountain on our whole trip which 
 declined to be at home to us. 
 
 In the city we passed what had once been a barren, stony ravine; 
 but the industrious Chinaman has transformed it into a fruitful 
 garden. At night we went to the Chinese theatre. The streets 
 around it swarmed with Chinese; they were like ants on an ant 
 hill. The theatre was crammed to suifocation; there was not even 
 standing room left. A box had been reserved for us. The boxes 
 next to us were filled with Chinese women of the only class, with 
 rare exceptions, imported into this country. They were as quiet and 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 71 
 
 undemonstrative as if they liad not been outcasts. The audience 
 were all very (juiet, — almost stolid. They enjoyed themselves seri- 
 ously ; scarcely a smile illuminated a countenance. There was 
 more stir over something unknown to me which occurred in the 
 audience than over anything going forward on the stage. There 
 was a good deal of smoking, and fruits and candies were trafficked 
 round. 
 
 The seats and boxes were of common wood, and a very few strips of 
 Chinese patterns, and a few Chinese inscriptions, were the sum total 
 of any decorations. The stage was an open platform, at each end 
 of which there was a packed audience, through which the actors had 
 to force their way out. There were three or four seats, and no more 
 stage scenery than would furnish forth a Punch and .Judy show. 
 An indescribable orchestra sat at the rear of the stage, eternally 
 assisting, and emphasizing points most noisily. Stage clears: orches- 
 tra clatters and deafens. Actors enter: orchestra clatters and deaf- 
 ens. Actors enter and make their exit at curtained entrances at the 
 back of the stage on each side of the orchestra. They came in at the 
 right of the orchestra, and made their exit at the left of the orches- 
 tra. I was told that an actor having to feign death lies awhile on 
 the stage, and then gets up and walks out. 
 
 The only scenery I saw used was something like a pulpit, but not 
 as large. Slight changes were made in it, and the actors also made 
 slight changes on the platform during the action of the play. Except 
 the few chairs, however, not much use was made of scenery, if that 
 which was used can be dignified by that name. There were a few 
 gorgeous costumes ; masks also were used, and fiends were made 
 as uncanny as paper and paint could make them. 
 
 No females perform on the Chinese stage, and horrid males 
 painted an inch thick took the female parts. The singing consisted 
 of a poor, rasping chant, screeching, screaming and howling, and 
 had less of music in it than ordinary speech. There was a circular 
 hole at the back of the stage, iiigh above the orchestra, and that 
 appeared to be utilized by spectators. Chinese plays last for days 
 and weeks. We contented ourselves with a small section of one. 
 When we came outside late the streets were still jammed with 
 heathen. I do not know how long the theatre remains open, — 
 perhaps it never closes, — nor when the heathen sleep, — perhaps they 
 keep awake always. They swarm on the streets at all hours. 
 
 Next day, Tuesday, August 19th, after business, I visited art gal- 
 leries and studios, and saw marvelous effects in color, and wonderful 
 
NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 Palisades of Columbia River, 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICrOlUA. 73 
 
 transcripts of wonderful scenery. Colonel Tom Morry, of the Port- 
 land Oregonian, did me the service to explain tliese monster mount- 
 ain scenes and river scenes, which he did with clearness and facility, 
 having lived among them, camped beside them, and faced them for 
 months at a time. Mr, Stuart, whose studio I visited, had his right 
 arm in a sling. He got it broken, having slipped on a glacier on one 
 of tiie mountains a distance of 200 yards before he recovered himself. 
 
 "Wednesday, August 20th, at 7 a. ar., we leave on a steamer for 
 The Dalles. This is the commencement of a continuous journey from 
 Portland to St. Paul, 1,912 miles, which is to last up to the afternoon 
 of Sunday, August 24th. We might have gone by rail from Port- 
 land ; but we preferred the steamer'trip of one day on the Willamette 
 and Columbia rivers. At The Dalles we had time for supper before 
 the train, which left at 11:40 a. m., overtook us. We had engaged 
 sleeping berths on the train, and, wlien it overtook us, we had noth- 
 ing to do but to step on board and take our assigned places. The 
 Willamette looked spacious enough to fill the full measure of the 
 description of the Columbia. The conjunction of the two rivers 
 deserved the title of a lake. 
 
 The Columbia, what we saw of it on this day's trip, was simply 
 an immense caiion filled by a correspondingly immense river. Fog 
 and forest fires limited our sight-seeing ; mountains make our 
 shores. Among the marvels of the rocky shores were Rooster Rock, 
 Castle Rock, grotesque figures like sentries; palisades of varied kinds, 
 high and low; at some points a perfect wall slanting away from the 
 water, producing fine effects with the aid of sun and mist, or sunset; 
 Multnomah Falls, and cascades like Niagara river above Niagara 
 Falls. Curious rocks popped up here and there in this wonderful 
 stream. Evidently these once had been one ; but the water had 
 washed them apart. Rocky cones were numerous. The water had 
 cut its way through the rocks. This was especially the case east of 
 The Dalles, where the river dashed througli many curious rocky 
 channels which it had cut for itself. 
 
 The trip from Portland to The Dalles was made by steamer to 
 the Cascades; then we took a train for a few miles past the Cascades; 
 and then took another steamer for The Dalles, from whence we made 
 the remainder of our trip to St. Paul by train. We passed large 
 canneries, where salmon are canned, and saw the simple method of 
 catching salmon wholesale. 
 
 After leaving The Dalles, and just before nightfall, we passed an 
 Indian village, or encampment, close to the river. An Indian girl 
 
74 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 Multnomah Falls, Columbia River. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VICTORIA. 75 
 
 was picking hor way along the shore; an Indian man and boy, 
 mounted on one horse, jogged indolently along; an Indian woman 
 was rowing in a boat, and her " noble," melancholy red man sat at 
 his ease therein. One Indian hut stood close to the river's edge, con- 
 venient for fishing, and subject to prompt change of base if the river 
 should rise ; and rivers out here are troubled that way. Some of the 
 beds were outside of all shelter, with only the sky for a canopy. 
 Indians of all ages and sexes were sprawling in all directions and 
 attitudes, none of the latter graceful or picturesque, and some not 
 quite decent. Old female Indians were withered, shriveled and 
 ugly. Dirt and squalor! The noble red man? Oh, no! The dirty, 
 Ia"zy, thieving red man, devoid of all romance or grace, yet not quite 
 devoid of interest, because he continues to be considerable of a 
 nuisance and obstruction. 
 
 It were too long to tell of rivers, lakes and mountains with which 
 we made acquaintance ; of immense gorges through which we and 
 the rivers ran, rivers which we cross and recross, and lose and find 
 again endlessly. From our inner consciousness we evolve how a 
 town is made. It is done by cutting down a few trees, and burning 
 a few more, thus clearing a space in the woods sufficient for a few 
 tents and wooden houses, then shooting somebody to start a ceme- 
 tery, and the thing is done. 
 
 In one new town we saw an hotel. It bore the sign of " Palace 
 Hotel," and promised fresh bread and beds. It was a long, wooden 
 shanty of one room, with a " wash-room " at one side of it. In- 
 ferentially we came to the conclusion, that, after supper is served 
 every evening, and the tables cleared, beds are then made up on the 
 tables ; and any high-toned, gilt-edged, kid-gloved guest, who is 
 very particular and exclusive, can have a table to himself on payment 
 of extra charge. Indians and Chinese abound on this route ; the 
 latter were imported to build the railroad, and remained to prey. 
 We passed a graveyard with memorials erected by vigilants to those 
 whom they had rooted out. It was but yesterday, so to speak, and 
 that state of society has passed away so quickly that it will be myth 
 to-morrow. Change C(jmes so fast in new lands. 
 
 We passed a mountain on fire ; it was more a blaze of weeds and 
 grass than trees. The crossing of lake Pend d'Oreille on the railway 
 was fine, and the scenery on the whole route was marvelous. It is 
 well named " Wonderland" in books which treat of it. 
 
 Night and darkness reigned when we crossed the Missouri ; but 
 we got out on the rear platform of the car to strain our eyes to pierce 
 
76 
 
 NOTES OF A TRIP 
 
 Lake Pend d'Oreille. 
 
FROM CHICAGO TO VJCTORIA. 
 
 77 
 
 "":>. -.-l. y'^^. 
 
 Fort Snelling. 
 
 through the dark, to 
 
 the waters which 
 
 have still 3,500 
 
 miles to go before 
 
 they reach the sea. 
 
 Above the bridge, 
 
 the Missouri and its 
 
 affluents have ::i,000 
 
 miles of navigable 
 
 waters. 
 
 We passed across Dakota at night, and missed its prolific wheat 
 
 fields. It is estimated that Minnesota has 10,000 lakes, varying from 
 
 one to thirty miles in diameter; we saw a fair percentage of them, 
 
 and never tired of their infinite variety. 
 
 From Sunday, August 24th, to Tuesday, August 26th, we remained 
 in St. Paul, with tlie excej^tion of a carriage drive to Fort Snelling 
 and the Falls of Minnehaha. Wednesday morning we were in Chi- 
 cago, after our thirty-four days' travel of 6,010 miles, and after hav- 
 ing seen some portion of one British province and thirteen States 
 and Territories of the United States, not including I Hindis, the State 
 from which we started, and to which we returned. 
 
Falls of Minnehaha. 
 

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