zmm^^^^^^^ ->!'. STONE'S •^ NEAY SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM BASED UPON A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD BY CHAS. J. STONE CHICAGO, ILL. ', k PUBLISHED BY '^ THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL CHICAGO, ILL. V_ THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two C0HE8 Received APR, 15 1901 Copyright entry clAss <^XXc. n». 72-2.-2- COPY B. Copyright, igoi, By the Chas. ] Stone Co. Cutting School. / /-,' )' \) DEDICATION To all cutters who desire to tread the up- ward path in sartorial research and to acquire a wider and higher edu- cation in this Art, I dedicate this book; thanking the profession for their appreciation of my first edition on Trouser Cutting. CONTENTS. Preface, Introductory, How to Take the Measure, Proportions of Height, Proportions of Width, Theorizing, Funilainental Principles, Fundamental Draft, Proportional Trousers, Full Dress Trousers, Peg Tops, Spring Bottoms, Trousers for Corpulent Figure, it it . : t i r^owlegs. Theorizing, 7 Corpulent and Bowlegs, Method A, 8 " " " " B, 9 " " " " C, lo-i I Variations, i2~i3 Bicycle Pants, 14-15 Riding Breeches, 16-17 I-eggins, iS-tg Leggins and Overgaiters, 20-21 Broadfalls, . . 22-2,5 Pointers about Making, 24-25 Superlative Works on Cutting, The, 26-27 Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, The, 2S-29 Stone's Reliable Block Patterns, ,10-51 Tailors' Squares and Measures, ,52-5,5 Cutters' and Tailors' Sliears. ,54-35 I'ractical Cutter and Tailor, The, 36 3 7 38-39 40-41 42, 43. 44- 45 46, 47- 48, 49 50- 5'- 52, 53 54 55-56 57 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 PREFACE. Books rule the world to a very considerable extent, and with an advancing civilization there must be an in- crease of books and a broader sweep of power proceed- ing therefrom, for they exert a mighty influence in the way of educating the people. It is as an educator to the progressive cutter that I present this book on Trouser Cutting, on this the beginning of the Twentieth Century. The basis upon which the entire foundation of this work is built is by proportions of the human form, and a careful, earnest, thorough study will reward you with results even beyond your most sanguine expectations. Sir Francis Bacon said, "Reading raaketh a full man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact man." Read this book from preface to the last page, not beginning in the middle, but read and digest the contents of each page in succession; then confer with successful cutters; after this reading and conference write on the tablets of your memory the information gained thereby. I have laid down the fundamental principles, en- deavoring to illustrate and explain the diagrams in the most accurate and lucid manner, and it now remains with the progressive cutter to utilize the instruction for liis advancement. The Author. USTTRODUCTORY. Tnere has perhaps not been as much progress made in trousers cutting as there has in coat and vest cutting, for the simple reason that cutters pay less attention to this most important problem. Every cutter has his specialty, but we find very few specialists on trouser cutting. Why is this? It is because cutters very sel- dom, if ever, study tlie shape of the lower half of their client, and whenever the cutter turns out a good fitting pair of trousers it is more by luck than by actual ex- perience. In order to enable us to properly cut and make all kinds of garments for all shapes and forms it becomes necessary for us to study the form that we are called on to cut a covering for, and with tliis view in mind the author of this work on trouser cutting has started from the very beginning by taking the human form and dividing it into sections so as to give us some basis to work from. There must be and is a reason why for everything we do when we cut a pair of trousers, and a system whicli lias not for its foundation the anatomical divisions of the human form certainly has not got any foundation to build on, and in order to be- come a successful cutter it becomes necessary to first study the proportions of the human form. Learn first how to cut a proportionate pattern for a proportionate form, then learn how to cut a disproportionate pattern for a disproportionate form. Always put in the foun- dation first before you begin to build. This work starts out with the foundation and proportions, followed by all kinds of disproportions, and in order to be able to fully understand the working of the system the cut- ter must start at the very beginning, read and study carefully every diagram; take )our time and study them carefully and you will be rewarded by being able to cut a good fitting and well balanced pair of trousers, pro- viding you follow the instructions, and whenever you fail to do so, look for the reason why. You may have been careless in taking the measures. You must be observing; note your customer's attitude; note his shape. If he has a normal, flat, or prominent seat, small or large thighs, large or small calves, straight or bowlegs, or perhaps knock-kneed; does he toe out or in ? These are the peculiarities that must be observed and the trousers must be cut and made up accordingly, in order to produce satisfactory results. The cutter must be painstaking if he wants to produce satisfactory garments. A system of cutting is somewhat like a musical instrument, it requires a good operator in order to bring anything out of it; and it matters not how good the system is, if the cutter is not willing to educate him- self how to use the system he will get but poor results, the same as a poor player will produce only poor music out of a good musical instrument. But with a good practical cutter in possession of a good fundamental system of cutting the very best of results may be ob- tained. Here I lay before you the fundamentals, study them well and you will be benefited. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. In measuring for trousers 1 first take the inseani, then the rise from the crotch up to the waist. This measure is best taken by placing an ordinary square between the legs, measure up to the waist and deduct the width of the short arm of square, which is usually ij^ inches. The outside length from the waist to the floor may be taken and used in drafting, and the rise will then be the difference between the outside and inside length. The waist measure is taken medium, the hip measure is taken quite snug, as an allowance of i J2 inches is added to half of the seat measure in drafting, which will give one inch extra for ease, the thigh measure is taken medium close and should be taken as high up as possible; the knee and bottom measures are, of course, as to prevailing style. .•\fter the measures are taken, be sure to note the shape of the legs as well as of the seat and hips, and make a note of these peculiarities. If the client has bowlegs have him place his two feet close together so that the toes touch; in this position he can not, if he is bow- legged, close the legs at the knee; to measure for the bow, stick your one, two or three fingers between the knees and determine how much space there is between the knees and mark down the amount of the bow; be sure and note down all the irregularities in the shape, and it will greatly assist you in producing a pattern that will fit. lO STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE L PROPORTIONS OF THE HUMAN FORM. THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. The theory advanced by our most noted SLulptors, painters, artists and professors of anthroiiology regard- ing the height of the human body and its proper divis- ion, is that the entire height, from the crown of the head to the end of the big toe, contains ei;^tit fares or heads, and on this theory they divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The distance from the bot- tom of the heel to the end of the toe is estimated to be j'o of the entire height. They also claim that the proper way to measure for height is to have the subject in a lying-down position with feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it must be on tip toe. This theory is undoubtedly correct if we want to find the correct length of the face, but to tailors this is of less impor- tance. What we want is the division of the parts of the body that we are required to cover, and it matters not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth of an inch longer or shorter, and while the distance from the crown of the head to bottom of heel ^ Waist, - 36 Bottom, 161/2 Seat, 40 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is 2 inches above one-half the distance from B to C. C to N is }i of seat. Square lines N, C, D and B. C to E is ^ and E to F is }i seat. E to 3 and E to 4 is .= 3 inch. G is half way between C and F. B 10 H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from H through C to L. H to 1 is I'g seat. E to V is !j inch. Square up lines E and V. It is not necessary to square djwn from E to U, as this only illustrates a section line. P to Q is 'A waist. J to Q is j^ knee {2}^ on fourths). I to S and I to T is 15^ on fourths, being yi inch less than one-half of actual size of bottom. N to I and C to 2 is J3 inch. Shape forepart as represented. BACKPART. S to 9 and T to S is yi inch. R to 7 and Q to 6 is Ij inch each. F to 5 is ,'2 seat. Point K is halfway between lines E and V and ys of seat up from E. M to X is I yi inches. L to M is 3 inches always. M to Y is A- waist. Draw a line from Y to K and hollow backpart J^ inch as at II. Sweep from O to Z by (). Apply waist measure from P to O. Place this at 11 and measure out to Z. One-half of waist measure and 2 inches for seams and }^ inch V to be taken out between 12 and 13. Note. — The outside of the trousers must be lengthened at bottom as at point T, y^ of the amount that they have been swung in, as from H to I. It will be noted that there is only }'2 inch added at the bottom for seams, but by measuring alongside the hollow edge of forepart of bottom we have gained the e.xtra ^.. inch needed. K to W is )8 seat. Apply seat measure from K to N, place this amount at W and measure out to X one-half of seat plus ly^ inches for seams and ease; to this may be added any amount desired for extra fullness over the hip. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 27 PLATE XI. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XM. SPRING BOTTOM PANTS. The accompanying diagram is that of a regular old- fashioned spring bottom pants. The draft is made from the following measurements: Outside, 43 Knee, i6>^ Inside, 33 Calf, 17 Waist, 34 Ankle, 15^^ Seat, 39 Bottom, 22 Thigh, 22 TO IlRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is outside, and B to C is inside length. D is 2 inches above one-half the distance from B to C. C to T is )s seat. Square lines T, C, D and B. C to E is y, and E to F is >§ seat F to I and F to J is -'s inch. E to P is i4 inch. G is J^ waist between C and F. B to K is is seat. Square from G through H to X and draw a line from G to L. L to O is 4 inches and M to N is 4^2 inches. Square across from O to N. Lengthen outside of forepart from 4 to 9, '4' distance from K to L. M to I and M to 2 is j{ knee (i6>^ on fourths). On spring bottom pants I always make the widths on the forepart at the bottom one inch less than at the knee. In this case L to 3 and L to 4 is i4;i inches on fourths. Shape forepart as represented by broken lines. Tne easiest way to obtain the correct width of trousers at knee and bottom is to add the amount desired for seams (in this case i inch) to the actual meas- ure and apply it in the following manner: Then place bottom of square at 1 and measure out to 18 (17^ inches on halves). Place end of square at point 2 and measure out to 19 (i7j^ on halves). Then place bottom of square at 3 and measure out to 1 1 (23 on halves). Tiicu from 4 to 10 (23 on halves), 5 to 14 and 6 to 15 is 161^ on halves. 7 to 17 and 8 to 16 is 18 on halves. Owing to the e.\lra length gained by the spring at the bottom, the backpart is to be straightened Sg inch as from 10 to 13 and 11 to 12. F to U is i'2 seat, T to W is i 3^' inches. E to S is 38 seat and point S is halfway between lines U and P. 19 to 29 is '4 inch less than i to J. H to X is 3 inches. X to Y is i\- waist. Hollow packpart '4 inch as at 27. 18 to Z is j^ inch less than 2 to R. Apply waist measure from Q to R. Place this at 27 and measure out to Z. One-half waist and 2 I4' inches for seams and % inch V taken out between 2 1 and 22. S to V is ys seat. Apply seat measure from S to T, place this amount at V and measure out to W, one-half of the seat and lyi inches added for seams and ease. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 29 PLATE XII. 3° STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIIL TROUSERS FOR THE CORPULENT. The accompanying draft is for a corpulent figure who stands apart with his feet. The following measures are used in drafting: Outside, 44 Waist, 46 Knee, 2 1 Inside, 3» Belly, Seat, 47 45 Bottom, 18 HOW TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. Square line A, D and A, 6. A to D is outside length. D to B is inside length. C is 2 inches less than halfway from B to D. Square out B, C and D. B to I is i^ of seat (on division) or ^:l of entire seat measure. I to 5 is ^ of seat. I to 2 is ^2 inch. Square up lines i and 2. From 2 up to star at 8 is }i of seat. E center line is halfway between B and 5. D to F at bottom is the same as B to E. Draw center line from F througli E and up to G. Get width at knee and bottom going out half each way from center line, making leg at bottom from 8yi to 9 inches wide. Apply waist measure by placing square on center line at G, going forward to 6 and back to 7, one fourth of waist measure, using divisions on the square; thus making the forepart measure from 6 to 7 one- founh of entire waist measure. 10 is one-third the distance from 6 to 2. Square down by G and 6 to 10. Draw line from 10 to 2. Add to fork from 5 to 3 same amount that there is between line 2 at 8 to dotted line at 9. From 3 to 4 is .)^ inch. Draw a line from 9 to 3. Raise forepart from 6 to 11 half the distance that there is from 26 to 11. Reduce forepart at 12 whatever it has gained at 8. Shape as shown in diagram. BACKPART. Place forepart on paper or cloth. Extend lines at knee from 19 to 20. Extend lines at bottom from 17 to 18. Extend seat line at B and 21. Draw up center line from G to 22. G to 22 is one sixth of seat measure. From 22 to 23 is the same distance as from 26 to 11 on forepart, on diagram A. Draw line from halfway between 22 and 23 to star on forepart. The star always remaining halfway between lines i and 2, and one-eighth of seat up from 2. From 4 to 2 I is one twelfth of seat. From 12 to 25 is 1 3/j^ inches and add extra the amount the forepart has been reduced at 12. Sweep from 7 to 24, by knee 13. Apply waist measure from 11 to 7, and 23 to 24, allow- ing one inch extra for seams, apply the measure over abdomen at 10, half of measure and one inch for seams. Apply seat measure on dotted line from 8 to 12, and across backpart on dotted line to 25, allowing one inch and a half over half of seat measure for seams and ease. Add at knee 19 and 20, same amount on both sides to make up the measure and one inch for seams. Add at bottom 17 and 18, same amount on both sides to make up the measure and one inch for seams. Shape as shown in diagram. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE rROUSEK SYS lEI PLATE XIII. SrONES .NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV. THE CORPULENT FIGURE. To draft from the following measures: Outside, Inside, 44 Waist, 46 Knee, 20 32 Seat, 45 Bottom, 18 In preparing the accompanying draft and explana- tion I have endeavored to make it simple and compre- hensive, so that the average cutter can easily under- stand it at a glance. This mode of drafting differs slightly from the preceding draft of fat men's trousers; it will be observed that these are cut closer in the front at M, and this draft is swung in at bottom. Commence drafting by drawing line A B and square across from A to P. .\ to B is outside length, 44 inches. B to C is inside length, 32 inches. B to D is 2 inches more than half the distance from B to C. Square lines B, C and D. C to E is half seat (use division on square). K to (r is one-eighth seat. J is I alfway between C and G. B to K is the same as C to J. Draw a line from K through J to O. E to F is )4 inch. Square up lines E and F. I is 34 back from G and H is -y inch forward of G. K to L is i^B of seat. Draw a line from L to J. .Apply one-fourth of knee measure each way from U, making it from U to V and U to W one-fourth knee (5 inches). This is easily obtained by using the knee measure 20 on the fourth. Next apply the measure at bottom in tlie following manner: Bottom is 18, use division of one inch less and make it 17 on fourth from L to S and L to T. Apply waist measure in the following manner: One- fourth waist on division on square from O to P and one-fourth from O to Q, which will make the waist one-fourth of full measure from Q to P. P to R is the same as Z to P. Y is one-third the distance from P to F and M is }i of seat up from F. Square down from P to Y and draw a line from Y to M and shape as represented. THE BACKP.\RT. Extend construction lines on forepart and add an equal amount at knee and bottom to make up size, and allow one inch for seams as follows: S to 8 is ^ inch. T to 7 is -^ inch. VV to 5 is ^ inch and V to 6 is J/^ inch. N to 4 is T ^2 inches always. G to 9 is ,'s seat. to I is 3^2 inches. 1 to 2 is I'fi waist. Draw a line from i to 2, and draw seat line from 2 to M. .•\pply waist measure from R to Q, place this amount at 2 and measure out to 3, one-half of waist measure and one inch for seams. Shape as represented. STONE'S NEW SUPERLAflVE TROUSER SYSTEM. PLATE XIV. S 8 34 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SVSTEr EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV. THE NORMAL TROUSERS. Drafted from Outside, 42 Inside, 32 he following nieasi Waist, 32 Seat, 37 TO DRAFT. irenients: Knee, Bottom, 1 6 34 TROUSERS— NORMAL VERSUS BOW-LEGS S to T is '_■ waist; draw a line from K to O and shape THEORiziNt;. forepart as represented. Cut out pattern and lay forepart on paper. Square across at knee, bottom, seat and waist line. L to U is 2 inches. U to V is ,'e waist, and V to VV is i inch. J is halfway between lines E and I. Draw a line from J to V. 2 to Z is i'n seat. N to 3 is }2 inch. Square out and'down from A. Q to 6 is i inch. A to B is outside length. R to 5 is i inch. B to C is inside length. O to 4 is >{. inch. D is 2 inches above half the distance between B and C. K to Y is i y< inches. Square lines B, C and D. Sweep out from T to X by 4. C to E is i< seat and E to T is >8 seat. Measure forepart from S to T. G is halfway between C and F. Place this at V and measure out to X, half of waist Square up from G to L. measure, and 2 inches added for V and seams. E to I is }i inch; square up lines E to I. This will produce a clean-fitting pair of trousers for B to H is the same as C to G. a normal figure. But supposing that our client is bow- Draw a line from G to H. legged? Is it then necessary to swing in center line at This line would be the center of the leg providing bottom? The normal man stands as close together our client will stand with his feet far enough apart, so with his feet as does the man with bow-legs, and as that there is the same distance between the two centers this is the case, why should the trousers be swung in of his feet that there is between the two centers of his more at the bottom for a bow-legged man than for a thighs; but a man will usually stand with feet closer client whose legs are straight? The bottom center together; the distance between the two centers of his should be swung in the same for all shapes j'e of seat, feet will be closer together, hence it is necessary to and if a man's legs are bowed— one, two or three inches swing the center line in at the bottom as from H to —the legs should bow out the same. Say, for instance, V ,'« seat, then draw a line from P to G, which line will that this man's legs are bowed out and that the opening now recur in the middle of the leg, and from this center between his knees is 21,2 inches, why should we not bow, line we divide the size of the leg. out the center line half of this amouni?- Move the M to O and M to N is '4 of the si/.e of the knee ( i8>i center as from M to Ai, i '4 inches, or half of the bow on fourths). and draw a new center line from G to Ai and from Ai P to Q and P to R is 1534 inches on fourths, which will to P, then apply the knee measure, using point Ai as ni^ake the width of the forepart at bottom }■. inch center; the forepart will now be as per lines with small less than half the size; draw lines from N to Q and circles and the backpart as per lines broken by the from O to R. larger circles. This is theoiizing and I only give this F to I and Fto 2 is .« inch. illustration as a theory. In practice I find that the Draw a line from i to N. legs must be swung in one-half of the bow at bottom I to J is 1,8 hip. Square across to K. in order to produce a long outside and short inseam. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 35 PLATE XV. 36 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVL CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. Method A. To draft from the following measures: Outside, 44 Waist, 46 Knee, 20 Inside, 32 Seat, 45 Bottom, 18 In preparing the accompanying draft and explana- tion I have endeavored to make it simple and compre- hensive, so that the average cutter can easily understand it at a glance. For bow-legs I swing in one inch extra from \V to X at bottom to nothing at the knee. In cutting the back part I take off from the regular draft y^ inch as at 5, and place this on to the inside of leg as at 6, the legs to be creased on line W. Commence drafting by drawing line A B and scjuare across from A to P. A to B is outside length, 44 inches. B to C is inside length, 32 inches. B to D is 2 inches more than half the distance from B to C. Square lines B, C and D. C to E is half seat (use division on square). E to G is '8 seat. J is half way between C and G. B to V is the same as C to |. Draw a line from V through J to O. E to F is ^2 inch. Square up lines E and F. I is 3 8 back from G and H is ?« inch forward of G. V to W is A of seat. Draw a line from W to J. W to X is I inch. Draw a line from S to X. Apply one-fourth of knee measure each way from S, making it from S to T and S to U one-fourth knee (5 inches). This is easily obtained by using the knee measure 20 on the fourth. Next apply the measure at bottom in the following manner: Bottom is 18; use division of one inch less and make it 17 on fourth from X to K and X to L. Apply waist measure in the following manner: One- fourth waist on division on square from O to P and one-fourth from O to Q, which will make the waist one-fourth of full measure from (^ to P. P to R is the same as Z to P. Y is one-third the distance from P to F, and M is 'a of seat up from F. Square down from P to Y and draw a line from Y to M and shape as represented. THE BACKPARr. Extend construction lines on forepart and add an equal amount at knee to make up size, and allow one inch for seams as follows; T to 7 is }'i inch and U to 8 is ^i inch K to 5 is }{; inch and L to G is lyi inches. N to 4 is 1^2 inches always. G to 9 is i\ seat. 8 to 9 is }s inch less than U to H. to I is 3^2 inches. 1 to 2 is )'g waist. Draw a line from i to 2, and draw seat line from 2 to M. Apply waist measure from R to Q, place this amount at 2, and measure out to 3 one-half of waist meas- ure and two inches for seams, and a yi inch V. Shape as represented. STONES iNEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 37 6 tr -- ~-Xw v._-^-J 38 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TRUUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVII. CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. Method B. Tlie accompanying draft of trousers for a corpulent as well as bow-legged client. The draft is produced from the following measures: Outside length, 43 Abdomen, 50 Knee, 19J4 Inside length. 31 Seat, 46 Bottom, 18.:^ Waist, 48 Thigh, TO DRAFT 27 Bow, 2 Square out and down from A. A to D is outside length. D to B is inside length. B to I is }8 seat. C is 2 inches above half the distance from D to B. Square lines B, C, D and I. B to E is j5^ seat and E to G Jg seat. K is halfway between B and G. D to L is the same as B to K. Draw a line from L through K to R. L to M is ,'e seat. Draw a line from K to M. X to P and .\ to O is '^ knee measure. M to O and M to N is '4 inch less than '4 bottom measure. G to H and G to F is s^ inch. R to S and R to T is 's of entire waist measure (24 on fourths ). S to W is half the amount that there is from Y to S. U is 1.; of rise down from S. Square down from S to U and draw a line from U to E. I to I is half the distance from J to V. Raise forepart in front from S to W, half the distance that there is from Y to S. For bow legs it is customary to swing in the forepart half of the bow, which is one inch, as from M to 15, running out to nothing at X (the knee). This would make the forepart run as per dot and dash line from P to 14 and (J to 16. This is the old way of doing it, but while correct as far as theory goes, it is found that the outside seam usually comes too far forward and causes the center of leg to turn in, so to avoid this I leave the forepart the same for bow legs as I do for normal shapes, but swing the backpart twice the usual amount. This will give the same swing in, but will give the legs a straighter appearance and the stripes will run straight on the legs. THE HACKPART. R to Z is I's waist. Square up to 7. Z to 7 is 3 inches. Draw a line from one inch below 7 to '4 inch out from J. Apply waist measure from S to T, place this amount at 7 and measure out to S, ^ of waist and i inch. .'\pply measure over abdomen from U to 4, place this amount at 5 and measure out to 6, half of the meas- ure and one inch for seams. Apply seat measure from J to i, place this at 2 and measure out to 3, half of seat measure and i '4 inches for seams and ease. G to 10 is i\ seat. Apply thigh measure from F to 9, place this at 10 antl measure back to B, thigh measure, and add 3 ' _• inches for seams and ease. 1' to 12 and Q to 1 1 is >i inch. N to 14 is I inch. Measure forepart from N to O, place this amount at 14 and measure back to 13, the full size, and i incli added for seams. The forepart at N is lengthened j.{ inch for every inch that center line is swung in from L to M. STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 39 PLATE XVII. 40 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYS I"EM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIII. CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. Mkihod C. I finii in cutting trousers for bow-legs that by swing- ing the forepart in at the bottom the outside seam will come too far towards the center of the foot and the creases will, if in the middle of the forepart, strike an inch or more towards the inside of the knee; so I find it to work much better not to swing the forepart, but instead swing the back part twice the amount as per the accompanying draft, which is produced from the fol- lowing measures: Outside, Inseam, 44 32 Waist, 48 Knee, '9 Abdomen, 5° Bottom, >7' Seat, 46 Space between the knees or bow of legs, 3 inches. TO UKAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is 2 inches above halfway between B and C Square lines B, I) and C. C to E is 34 seat and E to F is ys sea^ G is halfway between C and F. B to H is the same as C to G. Draw center line from H through O to I,. E to I is }'i inch; square up lines E and I. I to J is '8 seat; square across J to Q. L to M and L to N is ^4 waist. Square down from M to O. M to O is ',? of distance from I to K. Draw a line from () 10 I, and whatever the distance then is from J to P, advance fork from F to T and reduce hip the same amount from Q to R. Draw a line from P to T. T to U is -\8 inch and T to F is :^h inch. M to V is the same as K to M. W to Y and W to X is ^4 knee measure. H to I and H to 2 is '4 inch less than '^ bottom. Shape forepart as represented. THE HACKPART. Extend lines out at seat, knee and bottom. L to 3 is 2 inches. j; to 4 is ,'s waist and 4 to 5 is i inch. 7 is halfway between lines E and I. U to ID is tV, seat. Measure forepart from V to N; place this at 4 and measure out to 6, half of waist measure, and i inch for seams. Measure forepart from O to S; place this at 8 and measure out to 9, one half of abdomen measure, and add i inch. Measure forepart from 7 to R; place this at 19 and measure out to 20, lialf of the seat measure, and add I '/2 inches for seams and ease. H to 21 is I'ft seat, and 2 i to Z is half of the bow (i^ inches). Draw a new center line for llie back part from G to Z. II to 12 and 1 1 to 13 is J2 inch more than '/^ knee, and Z to 14 and 15 is one inch more than ^4' of bottom measure. Draw a line from 13 to 15, add ^ inch as at 17 and hollow out ?i inch as at 16, then draw a line from 12 to 14 and hollow inseam 'j inch as at 18. The outside seam for bow legs must be lengthened as at 2 and 15 one fourth of the amount that back part is swung in from H to Z, the crease line on fore- part will be on line W H, and on the back part on line iiZ. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 41 PLATE XVIII. 42 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIX. VARIATION IN TROUSERS. To more fully understand the variations in trouser cutting it is necessary to start at the normal point; so I will begin by giving the draft of a normal pair of trousers from the following measurements: 19 Outside, 42 Waist, 34 Knee, Inside, 32 Seat, TO DRAFT. 39 Bottom Square lines A B and A R. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is 2 inches less tlian halfway from B to C. .Square out C, D and B. C 10 E is !.T of seat on division. E to F is Jn of seat. E to G is 14 inch. 1 is Ja inch from F. 2 is -;s inch from F. .S(iuare up lines E and G. G to X is ^8 seat. Square out to T. H center line is halfway between C and F. B to I is the same as from C to H. J to K is ,'b scat. D:av line from K to H and square up from il to I. L ii> M and to N is 3-4 entire knee measure each way. K to O and K to P is ^4 inch less than '4 entire l)Otiom measure each way. R to O is _Jj waist on division. Shape and cut out forepart; lay on paper and mark out lines at seat, knee and bottom. I to 15 is 3 inches in all cases. 15 to 17 is I inch, and 17 to iS is I'a waist in all cases; for normal trousers draw seat line from iS to X and shape from X to 4. 1 to 4 is I'n seat for close fit and I's for an easy stride. N to 12 and M to 11 is Ji inch each way. K to 13 and K to 14 is i inch each way. T to 3 is i^ inches in all cases. Apply waist measure from R to Q. Place this at 18 and apply measure back to 19, j!-^ waist and i^ inches, and take out a }2 inch V in back part. The distance from C to Z is is seat. This will complete the proportionate trousers. If we have a flat-seated figure to cut for, I recede from X to 9 and add from 3 to 7 same amount, and recede from 4 to 5 same amount. F"or a full seat I advance the seat line from X to 10 and 4 to 6 and take off same amount from 3 to 8, running out to nothing at Y and 20 and 18 and 19. The theory on which I base these changes is that the waist in the back and side remains on the same points whether the seat is full or flat, hence the top of back part should not be disturbed. In a flat seated figure it is evident to all cutters that less goods is required from point S to X and H to 4; hence I recede from X to 9 from j^ to i inch, also recede from 4 to 5 >ame amount, and whatever I have receded from H to 9 I add to liip from 3 to 7. This will give a flat seat and a prominent liip, or, as cutters term it, a straight back part. If a large seat, I advance the seat from X to 10 and 4 to 6 and 3 lo 8, so as to get more goods in the seat from S to 10 and H to 6, and less from S to 8 and H to Z. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 4i PLATE XIX. 44 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XX. LARGE HIPS, SMALL WAISTS, ETC. small waist. For a very small waist, nothing should be taken In cutting trousers for men with large hips the bow- off the waist in front at 6, diagram A, but all should legged men's method must be used, as the large hip will be reduced In the side, otherwise the regular normal take up extra length on the outside, and by so doing shape should be used for this form, as he is not con- will produce a long inside seam just below the fork, and sidered a large hip, but a small waisted man. will only fit smooth when customer stands apart with How to determine whether customer has large hips, his feet 6 to lo inches; this clearly shows that the legs small waist, or both: should be swung in at the bottom, for if tlie inside In order to fully explain this it will be necessary seams of trouser legs were ripped opened they would to first give the proportions of the human form. An not follow tl e legs, but hang off on the outside when average man will measure 5 feet 8 inches in height, standing with feet closed together. I have found his breast 36 inches, waist 32 and seat 37 inches; his the man with a flat seat the most difficult to fit in waist therefore is four inches less than the breast and trousers, he usually has a large hip and is very tender five inches less than the seat, and the seat being one over the abdomen; I theref >re allow one-half inch inch larger than the breast. extra cloth in front at 6, diagram A, for such men, mak- 36 breast, 32 waist and 38 seat is a large seat, ing the waist one inch wider than measure taken; 36 breast, 30 waist and 37 seat is a small waist. also have the suspender buttons set further back so 36 breast, 30 waist and 38 seat is a small waist and as not to cause a drag on the front over the abdomen. large seat. In cutting the backpart, add from i to 1)2 inches This comparison will illustrate what is meant by at 23, diagram B, running out to nothing at star and large seat and small waist, and if this method is fol- take off same amount at 24, tapering to nothing at lowed out, you will find that it will produce perfect 25. This will give a straight seat and a large hip. fitting trousers in every respect. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 45 PLATE XX. 46 . STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXI. Inside length. 32 Seat, Rise, loyi Knee, Waist, - 34 Below the knee TO D RAFT. THE BICYCLE KNICKERS. In oriler to properly find the inside lengtli of leg correctly it is necessary to take the full length of the inseam the same as for ordinary trousers. Half of the inside length and three inches added will be a good average length of leg when a cuff is added and when the bottom is finished with a narrow band, four inches should be added to half the length of the leg measure. By using this method the cutter will have some guide to go by instead of using the length of leg to the knee, which, in most cases, is very uncertain, at least very few seem to be able to take this length correctly. The accompanying diagram is produced from the following measures; 38 14 Square out and down from A. A to B is rise, io)_- inches. B to C is 16 inches, being half the length of leg. C to D is 3 inches. B to H is /;-; seat. Square lines H, B, C and D. B to E is y-i seat. E to F is }a seat. E to I is ]4 and F to J is ^^ inch. Square up lines E and I. The front of forepart at X is advanced and lowered }■, inch from the regular. X to Y is yj waist. G is halfway between B and F. Square up and down from G. Place corner of square at K and measure out to L, 17 on fourths on the square, being one size less than knee measure. Then turn square around and measure from K to M, 15 on fourths, being three sizes less than knee. The forepart from L to M will measure one inch less than half of knee measure. P to Q is 14 on sixths, and P to R is two seams more than 1.3, making the width at bottom two seams more than }i of 14, which is the measure around the small of leg; the forepart must be lengthened >2 inch below point P. X to I and Y to 2 is i ^4 inches, for waistband, which must be left on. THE ISACKPARC. W to Z is 3 3-2 inches for all sizes. Measure forepart from X to Y. Place this at Z and measure out to 5 one-half of waist measure and add 2 '4 inches; .'4 inch is taken out in a V from 3 to 4 and I'i inches allowed for seams. Draw a line from Z to 8. J to 13 is ('5. L to II is I '4 and M to 12 is 2)4 inches. Take out a V of one inch as from U to S and hollow it out a trifie just below K and taper up to 14, which is 1 1'2 inches above K. U S is 34 inch above point P. U to V is yi incli more than 'j of measure (^use idyi on thirds), and S to T is one inch more than ji of measure (use 18 on thirds). The bottom will now be i4'2. which is y, inch more than the actual measure. This extra amount of fullness is worked in on the forepart from R to (^. The foreparts are also fulled onto the back opposite the knee so as to produce a cup shape over the knee. B to 10 is 'j inch more than /■. seat, and H to 9 is y^ seat. The waistband from 5 to 6 is 1 3,4 and from Z to 7 is lyi inches. The opening from T to O is 2 inches, and should be closed with a button or glove fastener. The cuff is 4 inches wide and closes with 3 buttons and holes. Draw a line from 15 to 25 and square down from 15 to 19 and mark off 4 inches; then square out from 19 to 24, raise the top }^ inch at 21 and lower }^ inch at iS; raise same amount at 22 and lower at 23. 15 to 16 and 19 to 20 is 14 inches. 20 to 24 and 16 to 25 is I '4 inches from button stand. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 47 PLATE XXI. z J- 48 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIL BICYCLE KNICKERS. WITH CUFK ATTACHEr). The Bicycle Knickers are best drafted from the regular measure of a pair of trousers with an additional measure taken around the knee. The draft is made from the following measures: Outside, Inseam, Waist, Seat, 42 32 37 Knee, ■ 12^4 Small of leg below knee, 13 Bottom of cuff over top of calf, 1333 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from A. A to B is 10 inches, being the difference between the outside and inside lengths. B to C is (6 inches, half of the actual length of the leg. C to D is 2^ inches, which is the full length to below the knee with allowance for extra length needed for the bend of the knee when in a sitting posture. D to E is 3!/^ inches cuff. Square lines B, C, D and E. B to F is 3 J seat, and F to G is 's seat. H is half way between B and G. E to L is the same as B to H. Draw center line from L through K, J, H and I. F to M is J2 inch. S([uare up from M to 1. 1 to N is yi inch, N to 2 is '_7 incli, and 3 to O is J-j inch, thus advancing and lowering the forepart in front and raising it in the side yi inch. 2 to O is ^-i waist. B to S is J/^ inch. G to U and V is Jg inch. K to 1 1 and L to 14 is i inch. II to 12 is } i of small of knee ( 13 on thirds). 14 to 13 is }} of the bottom measure (13^^ on thirds. ) J to Y is '6 knee measure and J to X '4 knee measure. to 5 and 2 to 4 is 1 3^ inches, waistbind. Shape forepart as represented. The backpart is represented by a broken line and drafted from the forepart. 1 to P is 1 3-4 inches. P to Q is 1 3/( inches. U to W is I'j seat. S to T is I 34 inches. L to 16 and L to 15 is ^^ inch more than 'j of measure at bottom of cuff. K to 17 and K to 18 is yi inch more than ' _; of small of knee measure. J to 19 is yi inch more than '4, and J to 20 is 'j inch more than '3 knee measure. Apply waist measure from 2 to O. Place this at Q and measure back to R, half of waist measure plus 2^ inches for seams, and i inch V taken out in back- part between 7 and 8. Add waistband from R to 6, and (^ to 9. The cuff closes with 4 buttons and buttonholes, and the opening on the outside extends up to point Z, whicli is I'j inches above point 11. A button sian inch and square u\> to F. F to P is '2 incli. Lower waist in front ].-2 inch from 1' to i, and raise side at hip as from 2 to Q, y^ incli. P to Q is ' J waist. B to 3 is ?4 inch. H to I and H to J is 33 incli. Apply knee measure, '4' of knee each way from 1. to .S and I, to T, 17 on fourths. M to V> and .M to V is 14 on fourths and at point 1 1 is 13 on fourths each way to 7 and 8. The first measure at M is jj inch more and the second at I 1 is J3 inch less than the small of knee. N to W and N to X is 19 on eighths each way from N, }^ of ankle measure each way. The width of the waist-band which in this case is added to the breeches is 13-2 inches. In order to get the outside seam to run towards the middle of leg in front reduce the forepart as from 5 to 6, S to Y, U to Z, 8 to 1 1, 9 to 12 and W to N. The exact amount to be cut off from the forepart varies a little according to size of leg, as well as to style and fancy, and whatever is taken off from forepart must be added to the backpart. The reinforcement on inside of leg extends forward to- wards the knee and is cut so as to give the forepart a uniform tapering shape. The opening on outside begins at point Z. The buttons are spaced i]^ inches apart. THE IIACKPART — FIGURE 1!. Cut out forepart and place it on drafting pajier, the shaded portion being the forepart. Y to Z is I's seat. O to 15 is I2 inch. R to 26 is 3-4 inch. 9 to 10 is 34 inch. X to I and X lo 2 is .'« inch. W is 2 inches up from line O P. V to 4 and Y to 5 is 'j inch. Apply knee measure 17 from O to 1', place this at 15 and measure out to L, 1814 inches. .f^pply small of knee from R to Q. place this at 26, measure across to 2 and i to 14 half of small of knee and i J2 inches added, then apply small of knee from T to S, i 2 to 17 and 13, deducting the Y and add i '_• inches for seams The calf measure is next applied from 9 to 8 and 10 to II, to this add I'i inches. Next apply the ankle measure from U to V, place this at 6, measure back to 5 and 4 to 7 ami add i '4' inches for seams. The opening extends to Q and the first button is i^ inches down to S. By first locating the inside seain of backpart it is an easy matter to get the outside st-am, as whatever has been cut off from the fort-part will be added to the backpart, which the measures will call for. The backpart is cut 3-^ inch shorter from tlie knee line down. T!ie forepart is to be hehl in at points O and P, and the backpart stretched from 15 to 26 and 16 to 13. A button stand is left on the out- side of the backpart as from 14 to 7. A to C is 2 inches and C to B is 4 inches. B to D is I % inches. Sweep out from F" to G by L. .Apply waist measure from E to F", place this at D and measure back to G, half of waist measure and 23.4 inches for seams, and a V. From I to H is i inch. The width of waist-band is t Ji inches. The inside reinforcement extends from the crotch down to the calf of the leg as per points 23, 24 and 25. STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 5i PLATE XXin. FIG. A. FIG. B. 52 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIV. RIDING BREECHES. The legs of the breeches extend down to the ankle, and riding boots are usually worn with this particular style of breeches. The inside of the legs are reinforced with tlie same cloth, and the lower part of legs are cut off and finished with a lighter weight material. The draft is produced from the following measures: Knee, - 1 7 Small of leg below knee, 1332 Calf, - 14 Rise of waist, 9]^ Inseam 2>i Waist, 34 Seat, - 38 Ankle, 1 1,4 TO DRAFT. Square out and down from \. A to B is 9J/ inches rise (one-fourth of seat measure). B to C is 2 inches less than y^ of leg ( i4;!-2 inches). C to D is 4 inches. B to F is 3J2 inches less than inseam, and F to E is 6 inches. Square lines B, C, D and F. B to H is y'l seat and H to I is 's seat. J is halfway between B and I. F to O is the same as B to J. Draw center line tlirough J and O. H to 5 i-i yi inch, and I to 3 and I to 4 is -'s inch. Lower wjist in front '_> inch from G to 2 and raise side at hip as from \V to i, one-half inch. 2 to I is yi waist. B to V is Jj' inch. Apply knee measure '4 of knee each way from K to U and K to T ( [7 on fourths). M to S and M ti) R is ]l small of knee each way ( 14 on fourths |. Tlie width of the waibt-band, which in this case is added to the breeches, is 1 '_• inches. In order to get the outside seam to run towards the middle of leg in front reduce the forepart as from T to 6, R to 7, and P to 8. The exact amount to be cutoff from the forepart varies a little according to size of leg, as well as to style and fancy, and whatever is taken off from forepart must be added to the backpart. The reinforcement on inside of leg extends forward to- wards knee and is cut so as to give the forepart a uniform tapering shape. The opening on outside begins at point 7. The buttons are spaced i^ inches apart. THE |:ACKPART — DIAGRAM. Cut out forepart and place it on drafting paper, the shaded portion being the forepart. 3 to 23 is ,'2 seat. U to 22 is ■ J inch. S to 2 I is 3^ inch. Apply the knee measure, 17 inches, from U to 6, place this at 22 and measure out to 16, eighteen inches. Apply small of knee from S to 7, place this at 21, meas- ure across to 15, small of knee measure and i inch added. The calf measure is next applied from Q to 8 and 13 to 14; to tliis add i inch. Next apply the ankle meas- ure from 30 to 29, place this at O, measure back to 28 and add i incli for seams. The opening extends to 7 and the first button is i J4 inches down from 7. By first locating the inside seam of backpart it is an easy matter to get the outside seam, as whatever has been cut off from the forepart will be added to the backpart, which the measure will call for. The backpart is cut Y^ inch shorter from the knee line down The forepart is to be held in at points U and 6, and the backpart stretched from 15 to 16 and 2 I to 22. A button stand is left on the outside of the backpart as at 14 and 15. L to 24 is 2 inches, anil 24 to X is 4 inches. X to Y is I J2 inches. Sweep out from W to 20 by C. Apply waist measure from 2 to i, place this at Y and measure back to 20, half of waist measure and 2^,2 inches for seams and a V. 25 to 26 is I inch. The width of waist-band is 1^2 inches; the inside rein- forcements extend from halfway between the crotch and knee and is stretched onto the forepart as indicated by dotted lines. Diagram C represents the reinforcements, and Diagram B represents the leg finished. The lower portions or continuation of the legs as from E to F, are in this case cut separate and from a lighter weight material so as to make this part more pliable, easier on tlie leg of the wearer. STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. PLATE XXIV. 54 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. LEGaiisrs. Tne leggin is drafted by la)ing front and backpart to- gether as per dotted lines on leggins. There are seven buttonholes and buttons on the leggins. Draw a line on the center of backpart and make a seam on the leggin as per line B, I'], F. Cut out at 15 whatever the distance is between the fore- part and backpart at A. The width of the leggin to be }{, inch more than the leg A, B, C and D. E to H and E to G is 'j inch, and '2 inch is taken out at F. G to F is tlie same as B to I), and H to N is the same as B to C. A button stand is left f)n the outsi