Ill 
 
 If 
 
 liipplifM 
 
The 
 
 Farmers' Guide Book 
 
 A Ready Reference Book of Useful Facts 
 and Rules for American Farming 
 
 By 
 
 C. S. PALMER, B. L. 
 
 Teacher and Practical Farmer 
 
 PRICE, ONE DOLLAR 
 
 THE HAMMOND PRESS 
 
 BUFFALO, NEW YORK 
 
550\ 
 
 T2^ 
 
 COPYRIGHTED 1915 
 
 By 
 
 THE HAMMOND PRESS 
 
 BUFFALO. N. Y. 
 
 FEB 25 1916 
 
 ©CLA420908 
 
S: PREFACE 
 
 1^ 
 
 ;^ In compiling THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK the writer has 
 
 o had in mind the demands of many for a more condensed and cou- 
 
 S venient source of information than is afforded by the current agri- 
 
 cultural works. The average farmer has little time and less inclina- 
 tion to read three or four pages for a fact that might better have 
 been expressed in a single sentence. He wants his information boiled 
 down, and free from technicalities or literary verboseness. 
 
 The book is designed, primarily, for two classes: 1. The begin- 
 ners who are anxious to start right ; 2. The average farmer who, not 
 having had the advantages of an agricultural college training, wishes 
 to avail himself of at least some of the information which those in- 
 stitutions teach. 
 
 The method of expression used by the writer has enabled him to 
 convey, in one small book, information that would, ordinarily, occupy 
 several volumes. The live topics of modern farming, such as "Fer- 
 tilizers," ''Lime," "Alfalfa," "The Orchard," "Rotation of Crops," 
 "Cement." etc., have been fully and carefully treated. These chap- 
 ters will not only be of inestimable value to the farmer, but they will 
 be of great assistance to all teachers and students of agriculture. 
 
 The directory of firms, which is an important feature of the 
 book, will be enlarged as later editions are published; ;ind all firms 
 whose dealings have been found questionable will be dropped. It is 
 the purpose to make the list not only complete, but reliable. In- 
 tegrity and square dealing are all that is required for a listing. Un- 
 reliable concerns will not, knowingly, be ineluded for any considera- 
 tion. 
 
 The writer hereby acknowledges his indebtedness to the many 
 agricultural colleges and experiment stations who have so freely ans- 
 wered his questions; to the agricultural press, especially to The Rural 
 New Yorker, from whose columns he has freely drawn ; to Doctor L. S. 
 Backus, of the State University of Missouri, who contributed most 
 of the chapter on "Cow Troubles and Their Remedies;" to F. E. 
 Beatty, of the firm of Kellogg & Co., strawberry growers, of Three 
 Rivers, Michigan, for the chapter on strawberries; and to the A. I. 
 Root Company, of Medina, Ohio, for the chapter on "Bees and Bee- 
 keeping. ' ' 
 
 Criticisms and suggestions for future editions will i)e gratefully 
 received. 
 
 C. S. PALMER. 
 
"The nation is not fed by peace, or 
 destroyed by war; these conditions only 
 exercise a temporary influence on it. It 
 is the soil, on which man builds his home, 
 that is instrumental in holding humane 
 society together, or dispersing it, and in 
 causing nations and empires to disap- 
 pear, or to become powerful." — Liehig. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF FARM LIFE. 
 
 What are some of the advantages of farm life? 
 
 1. INDEPENDENCE. — The owner of a well stocked farm may 
 well revel in his freedom from the cares and anxieties of the ordinary- 
 city man. He is his own boss and can take a day or a week off, at 
 any time, without fear of losing his job. He has no rent to pay, taxes 
 are low and the bill collector is only an occasional factor in his do- 
 main. Speaking on this subject, W. J. Spellman, of the U. S. De- 
 partment of Agriculture, says : 
 
 "In the first place, the farmer, if he is at all successful, has no 
 fear of being displaced. He commands his own time and leads an 
 independent life. In the second place, if he is wise, he may himself 
 produce nearly all the food necessary for his family. He may maintain 
 a good garden, an orchard, a flock of poultry, keep a few cows and 
 pigs, and grow most of his own bread. If the wife and daughters 
 know how to prepare food in an appetizing manner and understand 
 how to be frugal, the actual money expense for the farm living may 
 be made very small, while at the same time the standard of living, 
 from the standpoint of food, may be much higher than is possible 
 even with wealthy people in the city." 
 
 2. BETTER HEALTH. — Many a man, a physical wreck from 
 too close application to work in an office or shop, has been restored to 
 health and happiness by an active, out-door life on a farm. The pure 
 water, fresh air and healthful surroundings are conducive to physical 
 vigor, mental equipoise and a long life. 
 
 3. A GOOD PLACE TO BRING UP CHILDREN.— It has 
 long been known that many, if not a majority, of our ablest and 
 staunchest men, both in business and professional life, are from the 
 ranks of those whose early years were spent upon the farm. Nature 
 is an ideal teacher. If there are "books in the running brook," there 
 are still more in the meadow and the woods, and among the buds, 
 the blossoms and the fruit. 
 
 There are fewer temptations in the country than in the city. 
 There vice does not beckon on every hand, and one need not be ever 
 on the alert for the preservation of life or liml). Nor are broadening 
 and uplifting influences wanting. To be among domestic animals 
 and to help care for their young, to possess and associate with pets 
 are some of the factors which tend to develop the generous and hu- 
 mane instincts of the child. 
 
 What are the chief disadvantages of farm life? 
 
 1. LACK OF A STEADY INCOME.— While, no doubt, the 
 city-bred man in the country will miss the usual pay envelope every 
 Saturday night, it should be borne in mind that he already has his 
 pay in the growing crops and stock that will later be ready for the 
 
8 TEE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 market. The writer has in mind a man who, being caught in the 
 * ' back to the land ' ' movement, purchased a farm and, for three years, 
 worked it with the same energy and intelligence that he had displayed 
 in the city office. But he missed the fixed and steady income, often 
 being almost entirely without money ; so, grasping an opportunity, he 
 sold his farm at cost and advertised the personal property for sale at 
 auction. On figuring up after the sale, he was surprised to find that 
 he had a little more than $3,000, cash profit, over and above what his 
 equipment had cost. This set him to thinking; and having decided 
 that he knew of no easier or quicker method to accumulate $3,000 in 
 so short a time, he cancelled his engagement in the city and imme- 
 diately purchased another farm. 
 
 2. LACK OF CONVENIENCES.— This feature of country life 
 has been and, to some extent, is now one of the serious objections to 
 farming. The city wife, accustomed to her convenient bathroom, to 
 the use of gas and electricity, her refrigerator and power washer, 
 would find it hard to be reconciled to the conditions found on many 
 farms. But a new order of things is on its way. The telephone and 
 rural delivery have come, state roads are being made and the auto- 
 mobiles are annihilating distances. In this connection we quote from 
 the Long Island Agronomist, the following: 
 
 "At the present day the home life in the country is growing 
 easier and pleasanter for the women folk ; while in the city it is grow- 
 ing bewilderingly complex, more crowded and more difficult to handle. 
 In the country the door-yard is being spruced up. Rural delivery of 
 mail has come. Carrying water in a pail is remarkable for its rarity; 
 the hard-working pump has well nigh disappeared and water flows 
 in the country house by gravity. Reliance on the kitchen wood-stove 
 for heat as well as cooking is rapidly becoming a thing of the past. 
 Hot air, steam and even hot water, heat many a farm-house. Pianos 
 and pianolas have replaced the doleful melodeon, and the dining 
 table of the country girl groans with good things; while on the city 
 girl's table it's a miracle that the food does not do the groaning! 
 Acetylene or gasoline gas has taken the place of oil lamps ; and. often, 
 the farm stream furnishes power for electric lights and other pur- 
 poses." 
 
 Other disadvantages of farm life, depending more or less on lo- 
 cation and local conditions, are : distance from physicians, schools and 
 churches; uncongenial neighbors, tramps, lack of fire and police pro- 
 tection, etc. The back-to-the-lander should weigh well all these 
 things. By thorough and careful investigation he can determine be- 
 forehand just about what the conditions will be; then his own judg- 
 ment must decide whether it is best to make the change. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 BUYING A FARM 
 
 Hoiv may I find a farm for sale'^ 
 
 Watch the advertisements in the daily and farm papers, write to 
 some of the dealers listed in this book, or advertise in some paper that 
 covers the section in which you wish to locate. An advertisement of 
 ten or fifteen words will bring you many replies. 
 
 How large a farm shall I buyf 
 
 This depends upon the purpose for which the farm is to be used 
 If for a truck farm, twenty acres will be large enough for a good start. 
 If for a dairy farm, from one hundred fifty acres up will be needed. 
 Gauge the size of the farm by your capital and what you wish to do. 
 
 75 it better to buy a run down farm at a low price and try to bring 
 it up, or get one in a high state of cultivation and pay more? 
 This depends upon the farmers resources, not only in money, but 
 in knowledge and ability. If a farmer has capital enough to live on 
 for a couple of years without much income and will follow the rules 
 laid down in this book, he may profitably start with a run down farm, 
 provided he can get it at a correspondingly low price. 
 
 What cautions sJiould be observed in buying a farm? 
 
 1. Always see a farm before you buy it. Several examinations 
 during the summer, so that the land may be seen in different conditions 
 of drouth and excessive moisture, may be profitably made. The 
 amount of tillable land in the farm should be determined by actual 
 measurement. Do not accept the estimates of the owner. Attention 
 should be paid as to whether this land is stony, so that plowing is 
 made difficult, whether it is hilly, so that many kinds of farm 
 machinery cannot l)e used to advantage, whether the fields are con- 
 venient to the barn or are so broken up by ditches that it is impossible 
 to work them to advantage. 
 
 2. If it is thought advisable to purchase, employ a reliable 
 attorney to make the transaction for you, determining in advance the 
 amount of his charges, which, in any case, should not exceed twenty- 
 five dollars. He should see that the seller furnishes an abstract, 
 showing a clear title, and a full warranty deed; also that there are 
 no legal claims against the personal property. The deed should be 
 recorded as soon as it is executed. 
 
 3. Do not purchase on terms that you can not meet, should your 
 first year's crop prove a failure. Many a would-be-farmer has gone to 
 the wall because his first crops were less profitable than he had ex- 
 pected and his expenses were correspondingly more. Drouths, crop 
 failure and poor markets may always be expected and should ])e pro- 
 vided for. 
 
30 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 4. If a man has only a small capital, say $500 or $1,000, he may 
 start by renting a small farm near the city. With a little hired help 
 he can work such a place and still retain his city job until he feels 
 justified in giving the farm his entire attention. With poultry and 
 vegetables, and by keeping a cow and a pig or two, many who have 
 started in this way have been very successful. 
 
 Hoiv may the desirability of a farm he determined? 
 
 Have definitely in mind the purposes for which you wish to pur- 
 chase the farm ; then study its adaptability to these purposes, giving 
 special attention to the following particulars : 
 
 1. Soil. Is it clay, sand, or gravel? Clay is good grass land 
 and suitable for general farm crops. It is not, however, suitable for 
 early cultivated crops, as it is too cold, too wet and too hard. It is 
 also, more difScult and unsatisfactory to work than is any other soil, 
 requiring just the proper treatment in order to avoid baking and hard 
 lumps. The depth of the soil should be carefully determined. Many 
 crops, of which alfalfa is one, cannot be raised profitably on shallow 
 soil. If possible, have the farm bureau agent of that county go over 
 the farm with you and advise you. He is paid by the county and will 
 do this with no expense to you. 
 
 2. Draitiage. Many farms are run at a loss because the soil is 
 so wet in the spring that crops cannot be gotten in early enough for a 
 profitable market. Practically all farm land could be improved by 
 drainage and many farms must be drained to be made to pay. Go 
 over the farm in a wet season and determine exactly its condition in 
 this important particular. 
 
 3. Water. If a dairy farm is wanted, make sure that there is 
 plenty of living water, convenient for both summer and winter. Dairy- 
 ing cannot be profitably carried on without this. Let the other man 
 put down the expensive wells and install a pumping plant. You can 
 find a farm that does not need them. 
 
 4. Pasture. If for dairying, look well to the pasture and the 
 fences around it. Cows bought here and there of farmers are usually 
 unruly and difficult to keep within bounds. As pastures usually run 
 in New York State, about five acres are required to pasture one cow 
 during the summer. Barbed wire, which makes the most popular and 
 cheapest fence, costs about $1.75 per spool of eighty rods. Three 
 strands are required for a good fence. The posts, which should be 
 placed not farther than one rod apart, will cost from six to ten cents 
 each. 
 
 5. Buiklings. Are the buildings ample and suitable for your pur- 
 poses, or must you at once repair, remodel or build new ? Many farm 
 buildings have excellent frames above ground, but sills so rotten and 
 walls so poor that they have to be repaired or the buildings will col- 
 lapse. See that the floors are sound and whether, or not, the roofs 
 need shingling. Farmers often wish to sell because their buildings 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 11 
 
 are just about to tumble down, and they are not able to repair them. 
 Make careful study as to the arrangement and convenience of the 
 buildings. The writer has now in mind a farm on which the build- 
 ings are so unhandy that it takes three men two hours to do chores 
 that one man, with a more convenient arrangement, could easily do in 
 half an hour. See the buildings, if possible, in wet weather. Is the 
 drainage away, or is the barnyard a disagreeable mud hole? 
 
 6. Well and Cellar. Determine if there is good water in the well 
 and if it ever goes dry. Has it ever been cleaned ? Is the cellar under 
 the house warm enough to protect vegetables from freezing in the 
 winter ? Are the cellar drains open ? Do not let yourself be surprised 
 into finding that you must immediately spend a hundred dollars, or 
 more, on the cellar in order that it may be serviceable. 
 
 7. Market and Roads. Find where your markets are and go 
 over the roads to them. If there are long, steep hills to climb, better 
 try some other locality. Drawing heavy loads up steep hills is costly 
 and dangerous, whether with horses or with trucks. 
 
 8. Timber. See if there is enough wood on the farm for fuel. 
 A quantity of good, first-growth timber would be a valuable asset, as 
 it would furnish lumber for building and repairs. Do not, however, 
 be led to believe that "there is enough timber on the place to pay for 
 it." Getting out and marketing lumber is a difficult and costly task 
 and the returns are rarely what are expected. Unless there is a good 
 local market, the owner cannot usually dispose of timber to any great 
 advantage. 
 
 If I have only a part of the price and the owyier, wants all cash, where 
 
 can I horroiv the remainder? 
 
 Writing on this subject in the Rural New-Yorker, E. S. Brigham 
 says: 
 
 ' ' The prospective purchaser will do well to visit the local banker," 
 because bankers usually have a very fair and conservative idea of the 
 value of farm property in the territory which they serve. Bankers 
 are also interested in having the farms in their community fall into 
 the hands of good respectable people who will make the best possible 
 use of the land. If the purchaser needs to borrow money he will 
 probably find it necessary to appeal to the local banker for a loan. 
 The amount which a banker can loan on a farm is usually limited by 
 the laws of the State. Bankers usually consider a farm mortgage as 
 a very desirable security and a person who has a good moral character, 
 a reputation for meeting his bills promptly and who can show a good 
 purpose for using the money would probably have no trouble in 
 borrowing 60% of the value of the farm. The interest may vary in 
 different States under different conditions, but will probably be 6%. 
 Payments should be made promptly, because only in this way can a 
 farmer or any other person gain a reputation which will enable him to 
 secure credit necessary for doing business. A poor man of whom it 
 
12 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 can be said 'his word is as good as his bond' will be able to do 
 business easily where a rich man of whom the opposite is tnie will be 
 hampered. ' ' 
 
 What would he the equipment for a moderate-sized farm? 
 
 10 Cows $400 
 
 One thoroughbred bull 100 
 
 Two horses 350 
 
 Heavy harness 40 
 
 Light harness (single ) 20 
 
 Heavy wagon 70 
 
 Light wagon 35 
 
 Plow 11 
 
 Mower 43 
 
 Cultivator 7 
 
 Grain drill 85 
 
 Reaper and binder 125 
 
 Spring harrow 15 
 
 Disk 23 
 
 Hay rake 20 
 
 Roller 20 
 
 Manure spreader 100 
 
 Weeder 8 
 
 Heavy bob sleds 25 
 
 Single buggy 35 
 
 Cutter 25 
 
 Milk cans and small tools 25 
 
 Twenty hens 16 
 
 Horse sprayer 60 
 
 Four pigs 20 
 
 How may the farmer get an outfit at a small price f 
 
 By buying at auctions. Although stock usually sells at auctions 
 at the top figures, it has been the writer's experience that farming 
 tools are usually struck off at a low price. In buying second-hand 
 tools, however, always examine them first and make sure tliat they are 
 not worn out and useless. 
 
 DON'TS. 
 
 Don't be in a hurry to buy. 
 
 Don't expect to get rich in one year, or two. 
 
 Don't forget that it takes a great deal of hard work to run a 
 farm ; that help is scarce and wages are high. 
 
 Don't think that the prices you are paying for vegetables at the 
 corner grocery are what the farmer is receiving. 
 
 Don't get frightened if the owner of the farm tells you that 
 others are after it and he must know your decision in a few days. He 
 may have been saying this to prospective purchasers for the past ten 
 vears. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 13 
 
 Don't take for granted everything that the neighbors may say. 
 Talk with them, but remember they may have an ax to grind. Even 
 the man on the farm may have been promised a good bonus, if the 
 farm is sold while he is there. 
 
 Don't buy in a neighborhood where your family would be un- 
 happy. 
 
 Don 't think that some new development, such as a railroad, oil or 
 gas will soon greatly enhance the value of the farm. If the owner be- 
 lieved this he would not want to sell. 
 
 Don't pay as much for a farm six miles from a railroad as you 
 would for one only a mile away. 
 
 Don't run any risk of an imperfect title. 
 
 Don't let the real estate agent hurry you. 
 
 Don't fail to examine the inside of the house thoroughly; it may 
 
 be full of vermin. 
 
 Don't fail to talk with the local banker. 
 
 Don't take too much risk. 
 
14 TH^ F ARM E BS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 DRAINAGE. 
 
 Is the subject of drainage important to the average farmer? 
 
 There is no more important subject for the farmer to consider. 
 It is safe to say that three-fourths of all unprofitable farming is due to 
 lack of drainage. This subject is only just beginning to receive the 
 attention which its importance demands. Farmers are beginning to 
 realize that, no matter what the expense, their land must be properly 
 drained in order to yield satisfactory profits. 
 
 Mention some of the benefits resulting from drainage? 
 
 1. By removing the water it gives a greater depth for plants to 
 feed. 
 
 2. It makes the soil mellower and tends to prevent baking and 
 cracks. 
 
 3. Drainage helps to ventilate the soil. Air is absolutely neces- 
 sary for roots and useful bacteria, but it cannot penetrate into soil 
 that is full of water. 
 
 4. Contrary to general belief, drainage increases the amount of 
 moisture available for crops. This is because the soil particles in 
 drained land are finer; thus increasing capillary attraction. 
 
 5. Drainage makes the soil warmer. A test in the peat bogs of 
 Lancashire, England, showed that at depth of 7 inches, the drained 
 soil was 15° warmer than the undrained. 
 
 6. Drainage lessens erosion and heaving. 
 
 7. Drainage increases the available amount of plant food and 
 promotes the growth of useful bacteria. 
 
 8. Drainage helps to keep the land from getting sour. 
 
 9. Drained soils yield much larger crops than undrained soils. 
 
 What lands are most in need of drainage? 
 
 1. Large, flat areas having clay subsoil. 
 
 2. Bogs and swamps where water stands most of the summer. 
 
 3. Lands that are too wet because of the overflow of streams. 
 
 4. Depressions in hillsides tliat hold water coming from above. 
 
 5. All land that is intermittently wet for two or three days at a 
 time. 
 
 Mention some of the visible signs of too wet land. 
 
 1. Fruit trees missing, singly or in blocks. 
 
 2. Corn weak and patchy. 
 
 3. Heaving out of crops during the winter. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 15 
 
 4. Grass supplanted by plantain in large, blotchy areas. 
 
 5. Hard soil and unsatisfactory crops. 
 
 What methods of drainage are used? 
 
 1. Boring holes, sinking wells, or blasting holes by the use of 
 dynamite. These methods are applicable to fields where an impervious 
 layer of hard clay, shale or rock, separates the top soil from a deep, 
 porous layer beneath. 
 
 2. Surface ditches. This is the cheapest method. Ditches are 
 effective, however, only to their own depth. They are unsightly and 
 interfere with the general farm work. 
 
 3. Tile drainage. This is the modern and most effective method. 
 A farm drained by this method is often increased in value more than 
 two hundred per cent. Well drained farms can be worked earlier in 
 the spring and crops are better and surer. 
 
 What rules should he observed in tile draining? ■ 
 
 1. Do the work well, or not at all. 
 
 2. The main drain should occupy the lowest portion of the field. 
 It should be larger than the lateral drains, if much water is to be 
 carried away. 
 
 3. A fall of two feet in one thousand will be sufficient, if the tile 
 is properly laid. 
 
 4. The bottoms of the ditches should be even and the tile laid 
 very carefully with ends close together. Remember that one piece im- 
 properly laid may block up the entire line. 
 
 5. Care should be exercised not to displace the tile when covering. 
 
 6. The outlet of the main should be looked after with some care, 
 that the water from it will not do damage in washing and that animals 
 can not crawl into it. An ounce of prevention in this last particular 
 will be worth many pounds of cure. 
 
 How deep should tile he laddf 
 
 "The depth of drains will range from about twenty inches to three 
 and a half or four feet. The commonest depth is two to three feet. 
 In sandy land the drains may be placed deeper than in clay land. Up 
 to a depth of four feet an increase in the depth of the drain will per- 
 mit an increase in the interval between drains of about two rods for 
 each foot in depth. In clay land an increase in the depth of laying the 
 tile will usually not permit an increase in the interval between the 
 drains." — Cornell Leaflet. 
 
 How may ditches for tile draining he dugf 
 
 They may be dug with a pick and shovel ; but by far the best and 
 cheapest way is by the special machines that are made for this purpose. 
 The cost of tile draining, when machines are used, will average not far 
 from $30 per acre. 
 
16 TEE F ARM E RS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 How far opart should lines of tile he placed? 
 
 The distance apart and arrangement of the lines will, of course, 
 depend upon the structure of the soil and the slope of the land. If in 
 hard clay, they should be as close as four or five rods; while in very 
 porous soil, seventy feet may be near enough. 
 
 How does the water get into the tile? 
 
 The water enters the tile through the joints from the bottom. 
 What kind of tile should be used? 
 
 Use the hard-burned 3, 4, or 5-inch tile, the size depending upon 
 the amount of water to be removed. 
 
 DEAINAGE DON'TS. 
 
 Don't try to drain without some fall. 
 
 Don 't use too small tile. 
 
 Don't join laterals to the main at right angles. 
 
 Don't forget that the more fall, the more water will be removed. 
 
 Don't forget that drainage does not remove any water that would 
 be a benefit, if it remained. 
 
 Don't spoil your drain by knocking the tile apart when you cover 
 them. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 17 
 
 FERTILIZERS. 
 
 What is a fertilizer? 
 
 A fertilizer is anything that supplies plant food. 
 
 How are fertilizers classified f 
 
 Into natural fertilizers and artificial fertilizers. 
 
 What are natural fertilizers ? 
 
 Natural fertilizers are those that have been derived from natural 
 sources with no special treatment; as, stable and barnyard manure, 
 ashes, leaves, etc. 
 
 What are artificial fertilizers f 
 
 Artificial fertilizers are those that have been prepared with a view 
 of supplying some definite elements to the soil. 
 
 What necessary plant foods are supplied by artificial fertilizers? 
 Nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. 
 
 How may the amounts of avaHahle nitrogen, phosphorus and potash 
 
 in a commercial fertilizer he determined? 
 
 The amounts are always stated on the labels on the bags. 
 
 Thus, "Available Nitrogen 2-5%" means 2% of nitrogen, and 
 nothing more. 
 
 What is meant by a "2-7-12 fertilizer?" 
 
 One containing 2% of nitrogen, 7% of phosphoric acid and 12% 
 of potash. 
 
 How may users of fertilizers in large quantities save on the cost? 
 By buying the ingredients and doing the mixing themselves. 
 
 Are home-mixed fertilizers as good as those purchased from the fac- 
 tories? 
 They are, notwithstanding reports to the contrary. 
 
 What substances are used to furnish the nitrogen in artificial ferti- 
 lizers? 
 
 Nitrate of soda, ammonium sulfate, cottonseed meal, dried blood, 
 dried fish, etc. 
 
 What is nitrate of soda? 
 
 Nitrate of soda is a chemical compound, found in great quantities 
 in the dry, mountainous regions of Chili, and for this reason it is often 
 called "Chili saltpeter." As purified for market, it contains about 
 16% nitrogen and costs about $50 per ton. It is easily soluble and 
 becomes at once available for plant use. On sandy, porous land it is 
 easily lost by bleaching. It is the only artificial fertilizer that should 
 be used as a top dressing. 
 
18 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What is ammonium sulfate f 
 
 Ammonium sulfate is a by-product of the manufacture of illumin- 
 ating gas, coke and bone-black. It contains about 20% of nitrogen, 
 but has a tendency to make the land sour and should always be used 
 in connection with lime. 
 
 On what part of the plant does nitrogen have its principal effect? 
 
 On the leaves and stalks. Nitrogen gives the rich green color to 
 foliage. Used in excess, it causes a too rank growth. 
 
 What is the source of the phosphorus of fertilizers? 
 Bones, phosphate rock and Thomas slag. 
 
 What is phosphate rockf 
 
 Phosphate rock, thought to be of marine animal origin, is found 
 in many parts of the South, notably in South Carolina, Florida and 
 Tennessee. The rock is dug out, ground very fine and sold under the 
 name of "floats." In this form it is ready to apply without further 
 treatment, but is only slowly available. When the ground rock is 
 treated with sulphuric acid, it becomes much more quickly available as 
 plant food. In this condition it is known as acid phosphate, or super- 
 phosphate, and may contain from 14% to 20% of phosphoric acid. 
 
 What substances are used to furyiish the potash for fertilizers? 
 
 Muriate of potash, sulfate of potash and kainit. The muriate 
 contains 50% and the sulfate 48% of actual potash. 
 
 What is kainit? 
 
 Kainit is one of the potash salts from the great potash mines of 
 Germany. It contains from 12% to 13% potash, but it is not so profit- 
 able to buy as the muriate or sulfate. It is said to destroy the white 
 lice that prey upon the roots of some plants. 
 
 What is considered the cheapest potash fertilizer? 
 
 Muriate of potash. It is the best for most crops, although the 
 sulfate gives the best results on tobacco. 
 
 What materials would, he needed to equal ten tons of 2-8-10 fertilizer? 
 
 20,000+. 02= 400; 400 
 
 20,000+. 10=2000; 2000 
 
 .16 =2500 pounds of sodium nitrate ; 
 
 20,000+.08=1600; 1600^.14=11429 pounds of acid phosphate; 
 
 .50= 4000 pounds of muriate of potash. 
 
 How may one determine the most profitable fertilizer to buy? 
 
 This can only be answered by actual test. That which proved 
 profitable for your neighbor, two miles away, may not be suitable for 
 you. The experience of others may, however, have some value, hence 
 we append the following results obtained from tests made by the In- 
 diana station : 
 
 "On clay and loam soils, the complete fertlizer made the greatest 
 increase in yield. But a smaller yield with potash and phosphoric acid 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 19 
 
 and no nitrogen paid best. In other words, for corn, the nitrogen cost 
 more than it was worth. The best paying corn fertilizer was phos- 
 phorus with potash second. 
 
 "Applied to wheat, the complete fertilizer not only made the best 
 increase, but paid best. Each element paid, but, as in corn, nitrogen 
 gave least profit, potash next, and phosphoric acid stood at the head 
 of the class. It paid better to use two hundred pounds of complete 
 fertilizer on wheat than one hundred pounds. Fertilizers paid better 
 on wheat than on corn. The results on oats were very much like those 
 on wheat in bushels of increase, but not necessarily in profit. 
 
 "On timothy, the complete fertilizer gave better results than ni- 
 trate of soda alone, especially the second year. 
 
 "Heavy purchases of nitrogen for corn and wheat did not seem to 
 pay. Heavy applications of fertilizers seemed to last, like manure, 
 and raw rock phosphate did not seem to do much good until the second 
 year. In nearly all these experiments, phosphorus seemed to pay the 
 best." 
 
 Hoiv much fertilizer should he used? 
 
 This, of course, depends upon the conditions. If plenty of humus 
 is present, 200 to 600 of complete fertilizer should be sufficient. If 
 humus is not supplied, the amount of commercial fertilizers will have 
 to be increased each year to get the same results. 
 
 What costly mistake in buying fertilizers do farmers often make? 
 
 Farmers often pay $35 or more per ton for a fertilizer rich in ni- 
 trogen when all that is needed is phosphorus or lime. Acid phosphate, 
 containing 18% phosphorus, can be purchased for about .$14.00 per 
 ton. To supply the other elements when they are not needed would 
 mean a loss of $21.00 per ton. 
 
 How may a farmer determine what fertilizers his land needs f 
 
 By laying out different plots, about a rod square, and testing for 
 himself. Supply nitrogen to one, phosphorus to another, potash to 
 another, lime to another, also make different combinations. Leave a 
 block with no fertilizer to act as a check. Tlie next season the farmer 
 may profit by his results. 
 
 Will a chemical analysis sJiow what plant foods are lacking? 
 
 It will not. To be available as plant food the substances must be 
 in a soluble condition. The soil may contain many thousand pounds 
 to the acre of potash or phosphorus locked up in rocks, yet these very 
 elements may have to be supplied to get good crops. The chemist can 
 not tell, by his analysis, whether the food elements are available for 
 plants, or not. Do not bother your experiment station, about soil 
 analyses. 
 
20 THE F ARM E RS' GVIDE BOOK 
 
 What may he said in general, of the use of commercial fertilizers hy 
 
 farmers? 
 
 In general, it may be said that farmers use too much artificial 
 fertilizers. More attention should be given to drainage, tillage and 
 the turning under of green crops. The supply of humus in the soil 
 should be kept up in order to get the most profit from the land. Once 
 get into the habit of turning under a few green crops each year, such 
 as clover, rye, or buckwheat, and the need for artificial fertilizers will 
 soon be done away with. 
 
 Mention some of the crops and the fertilizers usually needed for each. 
 
 Alfalfa, lime ; 
 
 Grass crops, nitrogenous fertilizers; 
 
 Corn, phosphorus ; 
 
 Potatoes and turnips, potash. 
 
 In general, it may be said that well rotted stable manure, which 
 contains all the plant foods that are needed, is the best fertilizer that 
 can be applied. 
 
 What soil always needs potash in order to yield crops? 
 
 Muck soil always lacks potash and will not produce good crops 
 without it. Many other black soils, often called by the farmers ' ' made 
 lands, ' ' will be improved by potash. 
 
 What are some of the conditions upon which the profit from the use of 
 commercial fertilizers depend? 
 On the seasons (whether wet or dry), drainage and cultivation. 
 
 When the land is sour what element is usually lacking? 
 Phosphorus, which is usually associat-ed with lime. 
 
 FERTILIZER DON'TS. 
 
 Don't expect fertilizers to take the place of green manure. 
 
 Don't buy fertilizers and let your manure piles go to waste. 
 
 Don't expect to get much benefit from fertilizers on land that is 
 poorly drained. 
 
 Don 't expect fertilizers to take the place of good tillage and culti- 
 vation. 
 
 Don 't forget that, if there is no humus in the soil, that the amount 
 of fertilizers must be increased each year to get the same result. 
 
 Don't run heavily in debt for fertilizers unless you are reasonably 
 sure that they are needed and will pay. 
 
 Don't forget that lime and good drainage are, probably, more im- 
 portant than fertilizers. 
 
 Don 't pay for fancy names. 
 
 Don't use fertilizers blindly, determine by test what your soil 
 needs. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 21 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 Distinguish between haryiyard and stable manure. 
 
 Barnyard manure is from the feeding stalls and the yards and 
 contains the droppings mixed with straw, hay, corn stalks, etc. Stable 
 manure is free from external refuse. 
 
 Compare the value of barnyard and stable manure with that of arti- 
 ficial fertilizers. 
 Barnyard and stable manure are not only a direct plant food, 
 
 supplying nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, but they also supply 
 
 humus which is always needed. 
 
 Is the practice of putting the manure on the land in piles to be spread 
 
 later, a good onef 
 
 No; by this method about one-half the value is lost by a process 
 known to the chemist as denitrification. It also causes the crop to be 
 uneven in growth and in ripening. 
 
 When should manure be applied to the landf 
 
 As soon as possible after making. If directly after making, so 
 much the better. This saves the full value of the manure. 
 
 On an ordinary dairy farm with thirty to forty cows how much is lost 
 each season by not properly caring for the manure? 
 Nearly enough to pay the wages of a good hired man through 
 
 the summer. 
 
 Give some rules for the care of manure? 
 
 1. It should be kept under cover, away from the influences of 
 the sun and rain. On many farms the manure piles are not only ex- 
 posed to the weather, but they are directly under the eaves of the 
 barn. After every shower streams of black, rich water may be seen 
 rimning away and going to waste. If left exposed the manure pile 
 will lose about one-half its value in four months. 
 
 2. Save the liquid manure by using absorbents or catch it in a 
 cement pit. A little money spent for these purposes would be well 
 invested. 
 
 Can anything be applied to the manure pile to prevent loss? 
 
 Acid phosphate and "floats," one part of the former to two of 
 the latter, will help. This also makes the manure a more evenly bal- 
 anced fertilizer, since, when used alone, it contains nitrogen in ex- 
 cess. For use of land-plaster, see answers under lime. 
 
 How should manure be spread? 
 
 Always from the wagon, preferably with a manure spreader. A 
 light dressing of manure over a field each year is much better than 
 heavier applications at longer intervals. 
 
22 TEE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Why is the manure spreader an advantage? 
 
 It spreads the manure evenly, makes it finer and thus more 
 quickly available. A ton of manure spread with a spreader as soon 
 as made is worth four times as much as when left until fall and im- 
 perfectly spread. 
 
 How does the manure of different animals differ in value. 
 
 Young animals, poor animals, and those producing a rich prod- 
 uct, as milk, or those doing hard work, more thoroughly digest their 
 food, hence their manure is of less value. Animals in good condition 
 fed with rich feed, produce a correspondingly richer manure. 
 
 Grade the farm stock according to the richness of their manure. 
 
 Pigs, fowls, sheep, horses, cows. A 1,200-pound horse will pro- 
 duce about $30 worth of fertilizer in a year ; a cow $19, a hog $12, and 
 a sheep $2. To obtain these values the manure must be used to the 
 best advantage. 
 
 How may manure he kept from heating? 
 
 When manure is packed very hard the air is excluded and it 
 heats very little. Often manure is put on cement floors under sheds 
 and the cattle allowed to run on it all winter. In the spring when 
 drawn out it will be well preserved and very little of its value lost. 
 
 What is green manure? 
 
 By green manure is meant any green crops that are turned under 
 to furnish plant food and humus. 
 
 MANTJBE DON'TS. 
 
 Don't expose the manure piles to the action of the sun and rain. 
 
 Don't put manure in piles on the land to be spread later. 
 
 Don't pile manure around the trunks of trees; spread it as far 
 out as the limbs go. 
 
 Don 't let your horse manure accumulate ; it will heat and spoil. 
 
 Don't put clear manure in hills in contact with seeds. 
 
 Don't forget that liquid manure is immediately available as plant 
 food and should be saved. 
 
 Don't mix lime with manure: use land plaster, acid phosphate 
 or "floats." 
 
 Don't leave manure in the stables to scent up the barn and taint 
 the milk. 
 
 Don't forget that manure properly cared for and rightl}' used 
 is one of the props that keeps up the prosperity of the farm. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOE FARMING 23 
 
 IMPROVING THE SOIL WITHOUT COMMERCIAL FERTIL- 
 IZERS OR BARNYARD MANURE. 
 
 WJiat methods may he us(el to improve the soil without eommercial 
 
 fertilizers or barnyard manure f 
 
 Draining, liming and turning nnder green crops. The methods 
 must, of course, conform to the conditions. If land is wet and soggy, 
 hardly anything can be accomplished without drainage. If the owner 
 can not afford to tile drain, make deep surface ditches where they will 
 do the most good. After draining determine if the soil needs lime. 
 When the field has been drained and limed, turn under green crops. 
 
 What green crops are the hest for poor soil? 
 
 If the soil is very poor, begin with rye. This will grow when all 
 other crops will fail. Do not attempt to raise clover on poor soil. For 
 a second crop, buckwheat may be grown, or another crop of rye. 
 
 How (lid an Illinois farmer increase his hay crop from practically 
 
 nothing to more than three tons to the acre? 
 
 He plowed the land in the fall and spread air-slaked lime over 
 it at the rate of two tons per acre, harrowed it very thoroughly and 
 sowed to rye, using three and one-half bushels to the acre. During 
 the latter part of the next May the rye was plowed under, the field 
 again harrowed thoroughly and sown to soy beans, two and one-half 
 bushels to the acre. In September the plants were turned under, a 
 chain having to be used on the plow, the field harrowed and again 
 sown to rye at the rate of three bushels to the acre. The next spring, 
 about the middle of May. the second crop of rye was turned under, 
 the field again thoroughly harrowed and seeded to a grass mixture 
 containing ten quarts of timothy, six of mammoth red clover and two of 
 red top. The growth was rapid and in August the young plants were 
 clipped high. The next season the timothy stood as high as the 
 horses' backs with a fine clover bottom. The field yielded over three 
 tons of cured hay to the acre. 
 
 Under what conditions are crops turned under more valuable than 
 
 commercial fertilizers f 
 
 When the soil lacks humus. Soil so worn out that it contains no 
 organic matter is not much benefitted by commercial fertilizers. After 
 humus has been supplied, fertilizers may be used with profit. 
 
 What indicaticms point to a lack of humus in the soil? 
 
 When the soil is light colored and tends to become hard. 
 
 What plants are valuable as a fertilizer, besides supplying humus f 
 
 The legumes, clover, alfalfa, soy beans, etc. They take up nitro- 
 gen from the air and decaying give it up to the soil. 
 
24 THE FARMERS' a TT I D E BOOK 
 
 What must always he done when bringing up poor landf 
 
 The land must be thoroughly tilled. Good tillage not only destroys 
 weeds, but it conserves moisture and brings new food within the reach 
 of plants. 
 
 How should clay land that tends to harden in clods be treated? 
 
 Plow in the fall and leave to the action of the frost. Such land 
 usually needs lime and humus. If plowed in the spring, the clods 
 should be harrowed down at once. Tile draining should have a 
 marked effect on such land. Unless in the fall, always harrow newly 
 plowed land as soon as possible after plowing. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 25 
 
 LIME. 
 
 What are the functions of lime in the soilf 
 
 (1) Corrects sour soil; (2) promotes the growth of useful soil 
 bacteria; (3) helps to liberate plant food; (4) helps to soften hard 
 clay; (5) enables sandy soil to retain more moisture; (6) renders some 
 of the toxic substances of the soil less injurious; (7) acts as a direct 
 plant food for alfalfa and some other members of the clover family. 
 
 What are some of the indications of the need of lime in the soil? 
 
 (1) When moist soil will turn blue litmus paper red; (2) the 
 presence of moss and sorrel; (3) failure of red clover on the soil; (4) 
 the succession of timothy by red-top. 
 
 Discuss the blue litmus paper test for sour soil. 
 
 Soil acidity may be tested with blue litmus paper in two ways; 
 (1) Bury a piece of the litmus paper in the soil to be tested. If, on 
 its removal, the paper shows a red color after drying, it is a reason- 
 ably sure indication that the soil is sour and in need of lime. Under 
 certain conditions, however, the soil solutions may decompose the 
 coloring matter of the paper, leaving a red color when the soil is not 
 actually sour. For this reason the litmus paper should remain buried 
 only a few minutes. (2) Place a sample of the soil to be tested with 
 twice its bulk of water in a fruit jar, shake thoroughly and let settle. 
 If the clear liquid above turns blue litmus red, the soil is sour. 
 
 A NEW TEST FOR ACID SOIL 
 
 A much more reliable and satisfactory test for soil acidity has 
 recently been devised by Prof. E. Truog. of the Agricultural Depart- 
 ment of the University of Wisconsin. It is somewhat more complicated 
 than the litmus paper test, and special, though simple, apparatus is 
 needed. The test is conducted as follows : 
 
 Place in a 300 c.c. Erlenmeyer flask 5 grams of chemically pure 
 zinc sulphide and 50 grams of neutral calcium chloride, consisting of 
 the dihydrate, CaCU . 211.0, or 75 grams of the hexahydrate, CaCL 
 .6 HgO, exactly 9 c.c. of soil and add 250 c.c. of pure water. Boil for 
 one minute over a steady flame (alcohol or Bunsen burner), then place 
 over the mouth of the flask a filter paper, that has been moistened with 
 a 10% solution of lead acetate and dried, and boil for exactly two 
 minutes more. If the soil is sour, hydrogen sulphide, an ill smelling 
 gas, will be driven off and will discolor the paper, forming lead sul- 
 phide with the acetate. A bulletin has been prepared by the university 
 with a color chart representing different degrees of acidity. The exact 
 measurements of amount of soil and time of boiling form a basis for 
 determining acidity in different degrees. 
 
26 THE F AR M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Discuss the need of lime in the soil. 
 
 Most crops can not be raised successfully unless the soil contains 
 an ample supply of lime. The heavier the land, the more lime will 
 be needed. Light, sandy and gravelly soils may be injured by using 
 too much lime. Not only do crops cause a loss of lime in the soil, but 
 the use of some commercial fertilizers hasten its removal, sometimes 
 even to the extent of 1,000 pounds in a single year. The more ani- 
 mal manure, fertilizers, or green manure you apply, the more lime 
 you will take out, and this should be replaced. The roots of legu- 
 minous crops turned under can not decay properly without the use 
 of lime ; and unless they decay, the nitrates stored by the bacteria 
 are not available for the following crops. Without lime the land be- 
 comes hard and proper cultivation impossible. — Farm Economics. 
 
 Mention in their order some of the crops that are benefited hy lime. 
 
 Beets, alfalfa, cantaloupes, clover, peas, beans, onions, celery 
 Kentucky blue-grass, timothy, wlieat, oats, barley and most seed and 
 stone fruits. 
 
 Mention some plants tJiat are indifferent to lime? 
 Corn, millet, golden rye, potatoes and carrots. 
 
 What plants are injured hy lime? 
 
 Watermelons, strawberries, cranberries, huckleberries, red-top 
 and sorrel. 
 
 What are some of the varieties of lime that are used as fertilizers? 
 Ground limetsone, quick lime and hydrated lime. 
 
 What cautions should he ohserred in huying lime? 
 
 Always be sure which variety of lime you are buying and pay 
 accordingly. Quick lime, which has the highest lime value, is also sold 
 under the names of burned lime, caustic lime, lump lime, stone lime 
 and calcium oxide. When water is applied to it it '^ slakes" and be- 
 comes hydrated lime, e. g., lime with water added, also known as agri- 
 cultural lime, water-slaked lime, calcium hydrate, precipitated lime 
 and by other fancy names. An instance is recorded in which a man 
 bought quick lime for $4.50 per ton, added water to it and sold it 
 under the name of hydrated lime at $11.00 per ton. This gave him 
 about $11.00 per ton for all the water that he added. 
 
 What are the relative values of the lime compounds? 
 
 Chemically, 56 pounds of quick lime are equal to 74 pounds of 
 hydrated lime and to 100 pounds of ground limestone. It will be 
 seen, therefore, that it will require about twice the amount of ground 
 limestone and a third more of hydrated lime to ecpial tlie same weight 
 of quick lime. The fineness of lime is an important factor in deter- 
 mining the comparative values of its different forms. Unless ground 
 very fine, limestone will not give satisfactory results, especially the 
 first year. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 27 
 
 What are some other substances that furnish lime? 
 
 Gypsum, marl, ground shells, phosphate rock and wood ashes. 
 Gypsum is not now used to correct sour soil, as it has in itself an 
 acid-forming ion. Wood ashes contain about 33 per cent, of lime 
 and are usually beneficial. 
 
 Which form of lime is the most beneficial? 
 
 Authorities have not yet agreed upon this point. On heavy clay 
 soils which are somewhat moist the quick lime would, probably, be 
 more satisfactory, while on black soils, containing plenty of humus, 
 the writer would advise the use of one of the other forms. 
 
 What is the relation of lime to potash ? 
 
 It must be remembered when purchasing lime that, strictly 
 speaking, lime is not a plant food, but simply an agent that sweetens 
 sour or acid soils. It tends to make available a part of the potash 
 naturally in the soil, and it has a similar effect on the crude forms 
 of organic nitrogen. The continued use of lime alone will lead to a 
 serious soil depletion, unless the necessary plant foods are supplied. 
 
 The use of lime is of great value to the farmer when conditions 
 justify its use; and while it will tend to release soil potash, yet it 
 will in no wise take the place of potash. 
 
 There are some soils that are improved by the use of lime ; there 
 are others that are not. There are some crops benefited by liming, 
 some are indifferent to it, while a few are injured by it. Lime is a 
 valuable agent, but it should not be used indiscriminately. Before 
 applying lime to the field, know the reason why you are using it. 
 Guesswork should not enter into the methods of the reading farmer. 
 — The Practical Farmer. 
 
 How should lime be applied? 
 
 Lime should be applied after the ground is plowed and thor- 
 oughly mixed with the soil by harrowing or disking. The more thor- 
 oughly it is mixed with the soil the better and quicker the results will 
 be. It should never be plowed under, because its tendency is to work 
 downward rather than. upward in the soil. Apply lime with a 
 spreader after the ground has been plowed. Do not drill lime in with 
 seeds, nor mix it with commercial fertilizer, nor use it in place of fer- 
 tilizer. Apply lime to meet the lime requirement of a soil, and when 
 this has been done use manure and commercial fertilizers in the ways 
 that have been found profitable for the crops which are to be grown, 
 regardless of the fact that lime has been applied. — Bulletin 131, 
 Pennsylvania State College. 
 
 In what sections of the United States is lime most needed? 
 
 New England, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, 
 Maryland, Virginia, the coast states of the South and some of the 
 Central States. Many portions of these, however, do not need lime. 
 
28 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOB 
 
 Will lime interfere with the action of fertilizers? 
 
 If applied separately, lime will not act on fertilizers to any 
 appreciable extent. If lime is mixed with fertilizers or manures be- 
 fore applying to the land, it will cause them to lose their nitrogen. 
 
 May lime he applied directly to the soil without plowing? 
 
 Yes. While it is desirable that the lime should be as thoroughly 
 incorporated with the soil as possible, it is often practicable to apply 
 it to the unplowed land, preferably in late summer, fall, or winter 
 when the ground is bare. 
 
 What is important in order to get the full benefit of lime? 
 
 The addition of manure and the turning under of green crops 
 are absolutely essential to receive the continued benefit of lime. 
 
 How much lime sh&uld be applied per acre? 
 
 From 500 to 800 lbs. of quick lime, or equivalent amounts of the 
 other varieties. It is better to apply once in two or three years, rather 
 than to apply large amounts at longer intervals. 
 
 What is land-plaster and for what is it used? 
 
 Land plaster is another name for gypsum. It is a whitish, odor- 
 less, non-corrosive powder obtained by grinding a natural rock found 
 in Nova Scotia and other places. While it should not be used as a 
 lime, it is the best substance now known for absorbing liquid manure 
 and for preventing the escape of ammonia. Use it liberally upon the 
 floors and under the roosts in poultry houses, and wherever ammonia 
 gas is escaping. It will pay well to throw some upon the manure piles, 
 especially upon the horse manure. 
 
 LIME DON'TS. 
 
 I>on't expect lime to take the place of fertilizers. 
 
 Don't buy of unreliable dealers. 
 
 Don't use lime when it is not needed. 
 
 Don't store quick lime. 
 
 Don't pay more for hydrated lime than you would for quick 
 lime. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 29 
 
 ALFALFA. 
 
 What is alfalfa? 
 
 Alfalfa (Arabic, best-fodder ; French name lucern) was known in 
 Asia 490 B. C. It is a deep-rooted, long-lived perennial belonging 
 to the clover family (Legiirainosfe) ; stems one to four feet high re- 
 sembling sweet clover; flowers purple, rarely white, leaves slender 
 and toothed near apex. It is the most valuable of the forage crops. 
 
 Where can alfalfa be raised? 
 
 Alfalfa can be raised in all parts of the United States and on 
 some part of every farm. 
 
 What conditions are necessary for grotving alfalfa? 
 
 1. The soil must be well drained. The safest way to prepare 
 for the crop is by a thorough system of tile drainage. Alfalfa will 
 not flourish on wet, soggy soil. A good rule is to try to raise it only 
 on such soil as would grow a good crop of com in a very wet season. 
 
 2. The soil must not be sour. A good coat of lime, from 1,000 
 to 2,000 pounds per acre is usually necessary, 
 
 3. The soil should be inoculated. By this is meant supplying to 
 the soil those bacteria which are necessary for plant growth. It is 
 not always necessary to do this, as the bacteria may already be in the 
 soil. If they are not there, the plants will make a very weak, puny 
 start and then die. 
 
 4. The soil should be free from weeds. Thorough preparation 
 must be made in this particular, as the young alfalfa plants are 
 tender and easily choked out. It is well to precede the alfalfa with 
 a cultivated crop, or summer fallow and kill all the weeds by dragging 
 as often as they start up. 
 
 5. The seed bed must be well supplied with humus, well har- 
 rowed and firmy packed. A layer of dry lumps or dry manure a few 
 inches under the mellow surface would spoil the crop. See that the 
 soil is well mixed, moist and fine down to the solid ground. 
 
 When should alfalfa be sown? 
 
 No specific rule can be given when to sow alfalfa, as it depends 
 upon the season and the soil. As a general rule, it should be sown 
 in the spring, about the middle of May, in the North, and in the fall 
 in the South. If the ground is weedy, it is generally better to keep 
 it harrowed during the summer and sow the seed in August. That 
 seeded in the fall, however, must run the chance of insects and dry 
 weather. Should September and October be very dry, late sowing 
 would probably be disastrous. Alfalfa needs plenty of moisture, 
 although it cannot live in undrained soil. 
 
30 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 How may bacteria for inoculating he ohtainedf 
 
 1. The Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C, will sup- 
 ply, free of charge, sealed tubes of the culture with full directions 
 for its use. 
 
 2. Two hundred to 400 pounds of soil from any successful alfalfa 
 field would be sufficient to inoculate one acre. 
 
 3. Soil from ground where sweet clover has grown for several 
 years contains the same bacteria and may be used successfully. 
 
 How much alfalfa seed sJwidd he sown per acref 
 
 From 15 to 25 pounds in the East ; 10 to 15 pounds in the West. 
 
 What varieties of alfalfa are the hest? 
 
 Grimm and Turkestan are the only two varieties that are hardy 
 in the North, The Turkestan was imported from Turkey under the 
 auspices of the United States Department of Agriculture. The Grimm 
 originated in Carver County, Minnesota, and was introduced by the 
 Minnesota Experiment Station. It seems to be a little hardier than 
 the Turkestan. 
 
 What are the enemies of alfalfa? 
 
 Dodder, a parasitic plant with a long slender stem and no leaves, 
 is about the only enemy that preys upon alfalfa in the North and 
 East. Very close cropping by horses or sheep will often destroy the 
 dodder plant, while giving the alfalfa only a temporary set-back. 
 Foxtail is the worst enemy in the West. 
 
 How may good alfalfa seed he ohtainedf 
 
 It cannot always be obtained. Get samples and submit them to 
 your experiment station. 
 
 How may dodder seed he removed f 
 
 A 20-mesh sieve of No. 34 wire will remove practically all the 
 dodder seed. 
 
 Should alfalfa he sown alone or with a nurse crop? 
 
 It is usually safer to sow alone. Very good results have been 
 obtained, however, by sowing it with oats or beardless barley, five 
 pecks to the acre, and cutting when in milk. This furnishes a valu- 
 able forage crop, and, in very hot seasons, protects the alfalfa. The 
 alfalfa should be about six inches high in order to withstand the 
 winter. 
 
 What is a striking peculiarity of alfalfa? 
 
 Its roots go deep into the soil and take up plant food entirely 
 out of the reach of any other crop. For this reason it needs a deep 
 soil and is not affected by dry weather. 
 
 When should alfalfa he cut? 
 
 Cut alfalfa as soon as the red blossoms appear, or, as it has been 
 said, "when ten per cent, of the plants are in bloom." 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 31 
 
 How should alfalfa he cured? 
 
 It may be cured and put into the mow the same as timothy, or it 
 may be put into the silo for silage. If the crop matures during the 
 rainy season, about the only way to save it is to put it into the silo or 
 uii» for soiling. 
 
 What may he done to hasteyi the groivth of a thin alfalfa crop? 
 
 Gro over it with a disc harrow. This often seems to give the crop 
 a new lease of life. 
 
 Why is alfalfa valuable f 
 
 This is best answered by quoting the following "Alfalfa Prov- 
 erbs" from the Farm Journal: 
 
 Alfalfa is the best soil doctor, and it adds liuraus to the soil. 
 
 Alfalfa increases the milk flow. 
 
 Alfalfa is high in feeding value, and balances the corn ration. 
 Grow your protein — don't buy it. 
 
 Alfalfa sod grows larger corn crops. 
 
 Alfalfa is the greatest of all subsoilers, and has no equal as a 
 hog pasture. 
 
 Alfalfa keeps stock in good condition, and should be grown on 
 every farm where it can be grown. 
 
 An alfalfa tield is a hog's idea of heaven. 
 
 Foxtail is the greatest enemy of alfalfa. 
 
 Growing alfalfa is good farming. 
 
 Alfalfa means more money and better homes. Raise what you 
 feed and feed what you raise. 
 
 Alfalfa does things, and never loafs on the job ; with i\ fair ch.-ince 
 it always makes good. 
 
 Alfalfa fills the haymow and pays for the privilege; it is the 
 cheapest and best feed for beef and cattle. 
 
 Alfalfa insures larger yields from the crops that follow. It con- 
 tains more protein to the ton than clover or corn. 
 
 _ Alfalfa is the agricutural wonder of the twentietli century. It 
 yields from two to three times as much as clover or tiuiothv and is 
 more valuable than hay. 
 
 AiFALFA DON'TS. 
 
 Don't sow alfalfa on wet or sour soil. 
 
 Don't sow alfalfa on weedy ground. 
 
 Don't neglect to inoculate the soil. 
 
 Don't turn the cows into the alfalfa when the dew is on it un- 
 less you want to lose them. 
 
32 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Don't let the alfalfa get too ripe. 
 
 Don't neglect to write to your experiment station for their bulle- 
 tins on alfalfa. 
 
 Don't cover the alfalfa seed deep. 
 
 Don't get frightened if the alfalfa does not come up thick and 
 rank at first ; give it time, especially if the right conditions have been 
 provided. 
 
 Don't be afraid that you cannot get rid of alfalfa, once you get 
 it started. You vt^ill not want to get rid of it, any more than you want 
 to get rid of your best cow. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 33 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 What are potatoes? 
 
 Irish potatoes are enlargements of the underground stems of the 
 plant. Sweet potatoes are the enlarged roots. 
 
 On what kind of soil can potatoes he raised? 
 
 Potatoes may be raised on almost any soil, provided it contains 
 the proper plant food. 
 
 What kind of soil is best adapted to potatoes? 
 
 Potatoes do the best in a rich, sandy loam, well drained and well 
 supplied with humus. 
 
 Hoiv should the soil be prepared for a good crop of potatoes? 
 
 A clover sod on well drained soil is the best foundation for a good 
 crop of potatoes. Other legumes (alfalfa, cow-peas, soy beans, peas, 
 beans and vetches), buckwheat and rye are profitable crops to turn 
 under for potatoes. PIom' deep and liarrow to the same depth, using 
 an Acme harrow or a spring-tooth drag. If the ground is plowed in 
 the fall and again in the spring, so much the better. Potatoes do best 
 in mellow soil. 
 
 // it is not feasible to turn under green crops, what fertilizers may 
 be used? 
 
 Commercial fertilizers or well rotted stable manure. Unless the 
 manure is very thoroughly rotted, it should be applied to the previous 
 crop. Commercial fertilizers should never be applied directly to the 
 potatoes. 
 
 What brand of commercial fertilizers is the best for potatoes? 
 
 This will depend, as for any other crop, on what the soil lacks. 
 In general it has been found that the best potato fertilizer is one that 
 contains a large per cent of potash. 
 
 Are wood ashes a good fertilizer for potatoes? 
 
 Wood ashes should never be used on potatoes, as they promote 
 scab. 
 
 Eoiv should the seed-pieces be cut for planting? 
 
 Opinions differ widely on this point ; but it is, probably, best to 
 cut the potatoes lengthwise and put only one piece in a hill. Large 
 seed-pieces do better than small ones. 
 
 Is there any choice between the seed-end of the potato and the stem- 
 end as regards seed? 
 
 The seed-end sprouts sooner and will give a better vield than the 
 stem-end. 
 
34 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What affect does early sprouting in the cellar have upon the value 
 
 of the seed? 
 
 The early sprouts in the cellar sap the life of the tubers. If they 
 are broken off before planting, numerous weak and useless shoots grow 
 from the injured eyes. 
 
 Is it advisable to plant small potatoes? 
 
 Small potatoes, if planted from hills that produced only small 
 potatoes, are almost sure to produce a similar crop. When selected 
 from good hills, small potatoes will do very well, but the general 
 practice of planting them should be discouraged. 
 
 How much seed is required per acre? 
 
 Uncut seed, 10 to 12 bushels ; cut seed, 8 to 10 bushels. 
 
 When should the seed potatoes he cut? 
 
 Ordinarily it does not matter; but the seed pieces should not be 
 left in piles, as they would soon heat and spoil. In a cold, wet season 
 freshly cut seed rots much more quickly than that which has been 
 allowed to dry. If a cold wet spell is expected, better plant whole 
 potatoes. 
 
 When is the best time to plant potatoes? 
 
 Plant early potatoes as soon as the ground is warm, probably 
 about the middle of May. Late potatoes should be planted about a 
 month after. 
 
 Mention some good varieties of early potatoes. 
 
 Early Ohio, Six Weeks, Early Rose, Early Andrus, Salzer's 
 Earliest Bovee, Michigan, Early Trumbell. 
 
 Mention some good varieties of late potatoes. 
 
 Carman No. 3, Sir Walter Raleigh, Green Mountain, Rural New 
 Yorker No. 2. 
 
 How deep should potatoes be planted? 
 
 Potatoes should be planted about four inches deep. The potatoes 
 formed are very little deeper than the seed pieces ; hence when planted 
 near the surface the potatoes are apt to get sunburned and unfit for 
 cooking. 
 
 How far apart should potatoes be planted? 
 
 Plant in rows about three feet apart and from 15 to 18 inches 
 apart in the rows. 
 
 How much should potatoes be cultivated? 
 
 Cultivate every ten days until the tops cover the ground. If the 
 season is very dry, cultivate shallow often enough to have the ground 
 covered with a thin dust mulch. This will prevent the moisture from 
 escaping and insure a good crop. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 35 
 
 What objection is there to planting potatoes on sod ground? 
 
 Sod ground very often abounds in white grubs, the larvae of the 
 May beetle. These eat into the potatoes and destroy them. 
 
 How may heavy clay soil he fitted for potatoes? 
 
 Turn under a green crop such as clover, rye or buckwheat. See 
 questions and answers under drainage. 
 
 Why do potatoes run out? 
 
 Potatoes "run out" because of the poor selection of seed. If seed 
 is selected each year from the most prolific hills, the potatoes will not 
 only not "run out," but the yield will be greatly increased. 
 
 What is considered a good yield of potatoes? 
 
 The average yield in the United States for the last ten years was 
 76.6 bushels per acre. Professional growers expect from 200 to 300 
 bushels per acre, and yields of from 500 to 800 bushels are often 
 reported. For such crops, however, all the conditions of soil, climate 
 and cultivation must be perfect. 
 
 How are new varieties started? 
 
 Spread the seeds of the ripe potato ball on a paper and let them 
 dry. The seeds may be planted either in a box in the house or in 
 warm mellow soil out doors early in the spring. Each seed will usually 
 produce a new variety which will require three years to mature. Plant 
 the whole potato each year. The first year the potatoes will vary 
 in size all the way from that of a pea to potatoes large enough for 
 cooking. The smallest ones are usually not worth saving. The 
 potato balls are very rarely found on highly developed potatoes, but 
 may be obtained of seedmen. 
 
 Occasionally, but not often, new varieties, termed "mutations" 
 or "sports," develop in the hills of standard sorts. These may per- 
 petuate their characteristics, or they may revert to the old type. 
 
 When is the best time to market potatoes? 
 
 In the long run it is much more profitable to sell potatoes directly 
 from the field when dug. Storing in the cellar necessitates more 
 labor, incurs the loss due to rotting and shrinking and the risk of lower 
 prices in the spring. 
 
 What causes potato blight? 
 
 There are several kinds of blight ; as, the early blight, late blight, 
 tipburn, flea-beetle blight, etc. The early blight and the late blight 
 do the most damage. The early blight first appears as circular yellow 
 spots near the edges of the leaves. These gradually increase in size, 
 become brown, the leaves roll up, the stems are affected and the plant 
 dies. This blight does not cause the potatoes to decay. It is causad 
 by a parasitic fungus which takes root upon the leaves and saps their 
 vitality. Dry weather is favorable to this blight. 
 
36 THE FARM BBS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 The late blight is also caused by a parasitic plant (Phytophthora 
 infestans) and is much more serious than the first blight, as it causes 
 the potatoes to decay. It is at first noticed as irregular-shaped, brown 
 spots on the leaves. These spread rapidly and soon kill the plant. 
 Warm, moist weather is favorable to late blight. 
 
 How may potato Mights he prevented? 
 
 Potato blight may be prevented by persistent spraying with 
 Bordeaux mixture. Begin spraying when the plants are about six 
 inches high, before the blight appears, and repeat about every ten days. 
 Use a machine that will give a fine spray with considerable force. 
 The plants must be thoroughly covered. 
 
 What causes scab on potatoes? 
 
 Various causes have been assigned for scab, but it is, probably, 
 due to a fungus growth which may be either planted with the potatoes 
 or which lives in the soil in which potatoes have been planted. 
 
 How may potato scab he controlled f 
 
 An absolute preventive of potato scab has not yet been dis- 
 covered, but the following methods are more or less effective : 
 
 1. Soak the potatoes before cutting, for two hours, in a solution 
 of 1 pint of 40% formalin to 30 gallons of water. If not planted 
 at once, they must be spread out to dry. 
 
 2. Expose the potatoes to the sunlight before planting until 
 the outsides become green, 
 
 3. Do not plant on scab-infested ground. 
 
 4. Do not use lime, wood ashes or barnyard manure for fertilizer. 
 The plowing under of green crops has no affect on scab fungus 
 
 which will live in the ground about six years. 
 
 What is the cause of the dry rot and the wet rot so often seen when 
 
 potatoes are in storage? 
 
 These rots are caused by bacteria which may have their origin 
 in the stem rot in the fields, or from infected bins. All bins should 
 be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before the new crop of potatoes 
 is put in. A warm, moist cellar is very favorable to the develop- 
 ment of the rots. 
 
 Which is better, tiill culture or flat culture? 
 
 This of course depends somewhat upon the season ; but, if potatoes 
 are to be raised on a commercia] .scale, flat culture is the onl}^ method 
 to be recommended. 
 
 Hotv did one potato grotver increase his yield more than 300 per cent? 
 
 1. He plowed the field in the fall, turning under a heavy growth 
 of red clover. 
 
 This seems to be about the best method of fertilizing for potatoes. 
 The Wisconsin experiinent station (Bulletin 117) reports a test of 
 different fertilizers with the following result: Green clover, 241 
 
USEFUL FACTS AS'D RULES FOR FARMING 37 
 
 bushels per acre; 10 tons of stable manure, 197 bushels per acre; 
 700 pounds of commercial fertilizer, 192 bushels per acre; no fer- 
 tilizer, 174 bushels per acre. The test was made on sandy soil. 
 
 2. He had obtained his seed by going over a hand-dug field 
 and selecting the bast tubers from only those hills which yielded at 
 least six merchantable potatoes. 
 
 Few farmers seem to realize, as yet, the importance of seed selec- 
 tion in potato husbandry. The writer once kept separate the potatoes 
 from all hills which yielded at least seven good tubers, finding only 
 about a half dozen in a half-acre field. The next year he planted 
 ten rows of about 50 hills each, using for one row the selected seed 
 and for the others potatoes as they run from the bin. A difference 
 in foliage was noticed almost from the start, that from the row with 
 the selected seed l)eing much more vigorous and stocky. When dug 
 this one row yielded as many good potatoes as were obtained from 
 the other nine. Did the selection pay? 
 
 3. He began spraying with Bordeaux mixture when the tops were 
 about six inches high, and sprayed seven times during the season. 
 When the striped bugs began to appear, he added 3 pounds of arsenate 
 of lead for every 50 gallons of the Bordeaux mixture. 
 
 4. He began cultivating about as soon as the tops were out 
 of the ground, at first deeply then more and more shallow, keeping 
 a mulch of fine dry dirt on the surface during the dry season. 
 
 Give the life liisforij of tlie Colorado hcctle. 
 
 The eggs are laid on the under side of the leaves almost as soon 
 as the potatoes are up. These soon hatch out dark-reddish slugs 
 whose main business is to eat. The slugs, or larvae, attain their full 
 growth in about three weeks after which they go into the ground 
 to pupate, becoming beetles about a month after hatching. There 
 are, sometimes, four generations a year. 
 
 What is "potato canker" f 
 
 "Potato canker," also known as "black scab," "warty, or cauli- 
 flower disease," first made its appearance in Hungary in 1896. It has 
 spread through Europe and is now getting a foothold in upper 
 Canada, having been brought to that country in imported potatoes. 
 The disease is not indicated by the potato vines. It begins in the eye 
 of the potato, in small, rusty brown nodules, which quickly grow, 
 assuming a cauliflower-like form, until the potato becomes a shapeless 
 mass with an unpleasant, rotten odor. 
 
 What may he done to prevent "potato canl-er"? 
 
 See that your own seed is sound and do not use any imported 
 stock. If canker appears in the field, do not plant more potatoes there 
 for at least six years. No remedy has, as yet, been found for the 
 disease; and only eternal vigilance can prevent it from ruining one of 
 our most important crops. 
 
38 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 POTATO DON'TS. 
 
 Don't plant on poorly drained soil. 
 
 Don't expect to raise potatoes on soil that contains no humus. 
 
 Don't neglect to cultivate. 
 
 Don't use lime sulphur on potatoes. 
 
 Don't plant potatoes on the same soil year after year. 
 
 Don't plant seed from poor hills. 
 
 Don't let the seed sprout in the cellar, if you can prevent it. 
 
 Don 't cut your seed and then leave it in piles to spoil. 
 
 Don't wait until the blight appears before you begin to spray. 
 
 Don't fail to go through the bins now and then and remove every 
 rotten potato. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 39 
 
 CORN. 
 
 What states comprise the famous "Corn Belt" of the United Spates f 
 Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska and Missouri. 
 
 In what other parts of the United States may corn he raised? 
 
 In the entire eastern half, except the extreme north and south, 
 and in parts of most of the "Western States. 
 
 How many types of corn are there? 
 
 Six, dent, flint, pop, sweet, pod and soft. 
 
 What climate is best suited for corn? 
 
 Corn requires a high temperature during the growing season, 
 long days of bright sunshine, warm nights and plenty of moisture. 
 
 What is the most profitable variety of corn to plant? 
 
 The largest that will ripen in your section. Each farmer must 
 determine this for himself. In general, the flint varieties, because of 
 their earliness are raised in the East and the dent varieties in the 
 West. A few of the early dent varieties are now beginning to dis- 
 place the flint varieties of the East. 
 
 What is a good crop to precede corn? 
 
 Clover or grass. A clover sod on which well rotted barnyard 
 manure has been spread during the previous winter or spring is ideal. 
 
 What kind, of soil is best suited, for corn? 
 
 A well drained, sandy or gravelly loam, well supplied with humus. 
 Corn may, however, be raised on any kind of soil, provided it has 
 sufficient depth and richness. 
 
 How should land be prepared for corn? 
 
 First, select good soil. Corn is not a poor land crop. Plow deep 
 and harrow thoroughly both ways. A good crop cannot be obtained 
 unless the ground is mellow. One of the common mistakes of farmers 
 is that they do not prepare their land thoroughly. Going over it 
 once more with the harrow will often increase the crop ten per cent. 
 The finer the soil, the more plant food it will give up. 
 
 What is one of the most important factors in securing a, good corn 
 
 crop? 
 
 Selected seed. Go through the field at cutting time. Select 
 vigorous well-leaved stalks, cut, and when thoroughly cured, husk 
 and place the ears in a pile by themselves. If there is sufficient num- 
 ber, save only from stalks that yielded at least two good ears. 
 
 Give rides for selecting ears? 
 
 Select medium ears, well filled with straight rows and well 
 rounded at both ends. The color should.be bright and the kernels 
 
40 THE FARMERS' G V IDE B O K 
 
 firm on the cob. The ears should not hollow in from butt to tip, but 
 should taper very gradually. Save ears that are uniform in size 
 and shape. 
 
 What care should be given to ears after they have been selected? 
 
 They should dry thoroughly before being allowed to freeze; then 
 store in a dry place where they will not be subjected to extremes of 
 heat or cold. 
 
 What sJiould be done with the seed just before planting? 
 
 Test to determine if the seed will grow. One cause of a poor 
 crop of corn is the poor stand. It is estimated that every poor ear 
 planted causes a loss of $4.00. The corn expert of today knows 
 not only every kernel he plants will grow, but also that its vitality is 
 strong. 
 
 How can seed corn be tested? 
 
 Prof. P. G. Holden, of the Iowa Agricultural College, suggests 
 the following method : 
 
 ''Make a box three inches deep and 30x30 inches in size; fill it 
 about half full with moist sawdust and tamp firmly with a brick. Rule 
 off a piece of good cloth into squares 21/2x21/: inches checker board 
 fashion, and number the squares 1, 2, 3, etc. Place the cloth, which 
 should be the size of the germination box, on the sawdust and tack it 
 to the sides and ends of the box. Lay the ears of corn to be tested 
 side by side on the table or floor. Remove six kernels from six different 
 places from ear No. 1 and place them in square No. 1 in the germina- 
 tion box, germ side up, and crown pointing from you. Then remove 
 six kernels in a like manner from ear No. 2 and place in square No. 2 
 in the germination box, and so on. When the squares in the germina- 
 tion box are all filled, lay a piece of good cloth over the kernels and 
 dampen by srinkling water over it. Place over this a cloth consid- 
 erably larger than the box and fill the box M^th moist sawdust, tamp 
 with a brick or board and firmly pack on top of the corn. Keep the 
 box in place where it will not freeze ; raise the upper side of the box, 
 or the side toward which the crowns of the kernels point, three or 
 four inches ; the stem sprouts will then grow up and the root sprouts 
 down, thus making it easier to read the test. It requires about five 
 days for the corn to germinate. At the end of that time roll back 
 and remove the cloth containing the top layer of sawdust. Now re- 
 move the second cloth as carefully as possible and examine the six 
 sprouted kernels in each square. 
 
 "The above box when completed and set away for germination 
 may be described briefly as follows : Two inches of sawdust packed 
 firmly in the bottom of the box. On tbis is laid the cloth ruled off in 
 squares; then the kernels laid in squares, the second cloth laid on the 
 kernels and dampened, then a third cloth much larger than the box, on 
 which is placed two inches more of sawdust packed firmly. The edges 
 of the larger cloth may be, folded over on top of the sawdust. Soak 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 41 
 
 the sawdust at least two hours — better over night. Use a good quality 
 of sheeting for the cloth that is ruled ofiF in squares, and also for the 
 cloth covering the kernels. Do not use a cheap, porous grade cloth, 
 as the sprouts will grow through it and greatly interfere with the work. 
 
 "Leave a two-inch margin around the edges of the box to prevent 
 freezing and drying out. Make the squares to receive the kernels 
 21/2x21/2 inches. Never use the box more than once without thoroughly 
 scalding both the sawdust and the clotlis. To insure accurate reading, 
 the stem sprouts should be at least two inches long when examined. 
 Throw out all ears that show weak germination, as well as the ears 
 whose kernels fail to grow." 
 
 Describe the ''ear and row" method of obtaining seed corn. 
 
 Select fifty to one hundred of the best tested ears and plant a row 
 from each, using half the kernels on the ear ; number the rows and the 
 remaining half-ears so that you may determine what row each ear pro- 
 duced. It will be found that some rows will be much stronger and 
 more prolific than others. Use the remaining seed from the ears that 
 produced the rows for the next year's crop. The ears of the rows, 
 being cross fertilized, would not breed true to seed. 
 
 When should, corn seed be planted? 
 
 Plant when all danger of frost is nvei- and the ground is warm. 
 
 How deep shotiJd corn he planted and how many kernels in a hillf 
 
 Plant just deep enough to obtain moisture, from i/j to II/2 inches. 
 A great deal of corn is planted too deep. Plant in rows, 3i/> feet 
 each way, three kernels in a hill. If the variety is small, or it is 
 planted for silage, it may be planted closer and more in a hill. Use 
 a horse planter if any considerable acreage is planted; if only a smnll 
 amount, a hand planter may be used. 
 
 Give rules for cultivating. 
 
 Go over the field with a weeder three or four times after planting 
 to kill the weeds that are just starting. When the corn is three or 
 four inches high it may be cultivated at least six inches deep and 
 close to the hill ; but later, when the roots begin to spread, only shallow 
 cultivation is permissible. Many farmers lessen their crop from 10% 
 to 15% by cultivating so deeply .that the fine food-seeking roots are 
 injured or destroyed. Two and one-half inches is deep enough after 
 the plants get well started. Never go through the corn with a shovel 
 plow. 
 
 flow often should corn be cullivatcd? 
 
 Often enough to kill the weeds. If the season is dry, cultivate at 
 least twice a week, or often enough to keep a mulch of fine dry dust 
 :ibout two inches thick on top of the ground. This will conserve the 
 moisture and give it to the growing plants. Water does not easily 
 penetrate fine, dry dust. The dust mulch is one of the secrets of 
 successful corn growing. 
 
42 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What fertilizers are iest for corn ? 
 
 Well rotted barnyard manure is the best. Commercial fertilizers, 
 especially those rich in phosporus. will pay ; but they should be sown 
 broadcast, rather than placed in the hill. A compact handful of fer- 
 tilizer placed in the hill of any plant will do more harm than good. 
 
 What is the cause of corn smut? 
 
 Corn smut is caused by a fungus that may affect any part of the 
 plant above ground. The ripened spores of smut fungi are carried 
 by the wind ; and when they fall on the moist surface of any part of 
 the plant, not too mature they take root and grow. Soft li>;.sue, caused 
 by injury to the plant, is a fruitful field for smut spores. 
 
 What fields of corn are most liable to corn smut? 
 
 Corn grown on rich, moist soil. Such corn makes a rapid growth 
 and exposes much tender surface. 
 
 How may corn smut he controlled? 
 
 Burn all affected stalks from the old crop. Gather all the pos- 
 tules from the new field and bum them. The field should be gone 
 over at least three times during the season to be effective. The smut 
 may be controlled by spraying, but this method is not to be recom- 
 mended. 
 
 When should corn he cut? 
 
 If for silage, cut as soon as the ears begin to glaze ; if for the corn, 
 leave a little longer, or until the lower husks begin to turn white. 
 Leave in the field until well cured. 
 
 What care should he taken of husked corn to prevent it from spoiling? 
 
 It should be piled loosely in an open crib, which will allow the air 
 
 to circulate freely through the sides and bottom. A special wire is 
 
 now made for corn cribs ; this not only admits the air, but is rat proof. 
 
 Mention some of the uses of corn on the farm? 
 
 Corn may be fed to all kinds of stock and poultry. During the 
 cold weather the horses, when not at work, will do nicely on timothy 
 with a dozen good ears of corn three times a day. Hogs may be fat- 
 tened on corn cheaper than on any other kind of food. It is neces- 
 sary for poultry, especially during the cold weather. It is not a hot 
 weather food. A mixture of one part of corn meal to two of oat meal 
 makes an excellent ration for cows. The writer does not advise feed- 
 ing corn on the ear to cows. Corn stalks are valuable as a coarse 
 food when properly balanced with other rations. 
 
 CORN DON'TS. 
 
 Don't use poor seed. 
 Don't plant too close. 
 Don't neglect to cultivate. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 43 
 
 Don't expect a good crop on poor, wet soil. 
 
 Don't plant before the ground is warm. 
 
 Don't let com get too ripe before cutting. 
 
 Don't plant corn in succession on the same field. 
 
 Don't forget that commercial fertilizers will not pay so well on 
 corn as they will on earlier planted crops. 
 
 Don't plant varieties nearer than 300 feet, if you want to keep 
 them separate. 
 
 Don't let the weeds get the start of you. 
 
 Don't forget that deep cultivating will injure the crop. 
 
 Don't forget to plant a pumpkin seed in every fourth hill, if you 
 want a good feed to fatten a cow. 
 
 Don't let your corn spoil after you get it husked. 
 
 Don 't forget that clover turned under makes a good fertilizer for 
 corn or for any other crop. 
 
 OATS. 
 
 What are the essentials for a good crop of oats? 
 
 1 . A well prepared seed bed ; 
 
 2. Good seed; 
 
 3. An early start in the spring. 
 
 How should the ground he fitted for oats? 
 
 It should be well plowed and thoroughly harrowed. An inch, or 
 two, of fine dirt with hard, unbroken soil beneath is not a good seed 
 bed for any crop. Mellow it deep. Ground cannot be properly fitted 
 with a peg-tooth drag. Oats respond readily to fertilizers ; but care 
 should be taken not to use too much nitrogen, as it causes a too rank 
 growth of straw, Oats do best in a cool, moist climate and on rather 
 heavy soil. 
 
 What care should he used in selecting seed oats? 
 
 Seed oats should be well cleaned, and all light and immature 
 grains removed. It is the heavy oats that produce the big yield. They 
 should weigh not less than forty-five pounds to the bushel. It is always 
 well to treat the seed for smut, as described in another chapter. 
 
 Why is it important to soiv oats early? 
 
 Oats need a great deal of moisture, especially at ripening time. 
 If sown late, the}^ might have to ripen in a dry spell, and a poor crop 
 would be the result. 
 
44 THE F A R M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 When sJiould oats be cut? 
 
 Oats should be cut just as the grain has passed the milk stage, 
 or when the field is about one-half yellow. If left until dead ripe, the 
 grain will not weigh so much to the bushel and the straw will be of 
 poorer quality. 
 
 On well prepared soil oats yield from forty to sixty bushels per 
 acre. There is no great difference in varieties. 
 
 What may he said of oats as a stock food? 
 
 Whole oats is one of the best feeds for horses ; while ground oats, 
 especially if mixed with other grains, make an excellent feed for nearly 
 all other kinds of stock. Its straw is better for stock than that of any 
 of the other cereals. 
 
 Flow should oats be sown? 
 
 Drilling is the most satisfactory method of sowing oats. This 
 gives them an even depth and they are more thoroughly covered. From 
 two to two and one-half bushels per acre should be sown. 
 
 Wliat may be said, of oats as a nurse crop? 
 
 Oats are considered a good nurse crop, although wheat and bar- 
 ley are better. The oats cover the ground too thickly and require so 
 much moisture that the seeding is often killed out. 
 
 WHEAT. 
 
 What different types of wheat are raised? 
 
 Soft winter wheat, semi-hard winter wheat, hard winter wheat, 
 soft spring wheat, hard spring wheat and macaroni wheat. The hard 
 wheat, from which the best flour is made, is raised in Kansas, Ne- 
 braska, the northern part of the United States and Canada. The 
 softer varieties are raised in the more humid section of the East. 
 
 What soil is bf.'if for wheat ? 
 
 Heavy clay loams are best for wheat-raising. The ground should 
 be fitted the same as for oats. Wheat, however, is a "finer feeder" 
 than oats, so needs a richer soil. The raising of wheat has largely 
 been abandoned in many sections of the East. 
 
 When and how should wheat be sown? 
 
 Spring wheat is sown as early in the spring as the ground can be 
 worked ; winter wlieat is sown early enough in the fall to get a good 
 stand before winter. Wheat is best sown in drills, and usually it will 
 pay to apply a fertilizer rich in phosphorus. Sow from six to eight 
 pecks to the acre, depending upon the size of the seed. 
 
USEFUL FACJ\s AND RULES FOR FARMING 45 
 
 BUCKWHEAT. 
 
 WJiat may be said in favor of the huekwheat cropf 
 
 Buckwheat is an easy crop to raise, as it does well on almost any 
 kind of soil. The fact that it must be sown later than the other crops, 
 in order that its blossoms may "set" in cooler weather, is often an ad- 
 vantage to the busy farmer. Buckwheat always finds a ready market 
 and the price is advancing every year. It makes a most excellent feed, 
 although usually it is more profitable to sell it and buy something 
 cheaper. Tt is an excellent crop to precede potatoes, but should not be 
 followed by oats or corn. It is useful both as a cover crop and a catch 
 crop. 
 
 How should huchwheaf be soum? 
 
 Buckwheat may be drilled in or sown broadcast, about one bushel 
 to the acre. It responds readily to fertilizers. 
 
 THE HAY CROP. 
 
 What is the best meadoiv eirass? 
 
 Timothy is by far the best meadow grass tor the North. Clear 
 timothy makes an excellent roughage for horses; and, mixed with 
 clover, it is an excellent feed for cattle or sheep. 
 
 When should timothy he cut? 
 
 Cut timothy just as it begins to blossom; i.e., when the pollen 
 begins to appear on the heads. If allowed to get too ripe, it becomes 
 woody, unpalatable for the stock and the succeeding crop is injured. 
 This rule also applies to clover which should be cut as soon as it is 
 in bloom. 
 
 THE CLOVERS. 
 
 What are the most important clovers for the northern farmer? 
 White, red, alsike, crimson and sweet. 
 
 Describe white clover. 
 
 White clover is a low trailing perennial with small white blossoms. 
 It is too low for meadows, but should be found in every pasture 
 mixture, as it spreads rapidly and will often cover the ground where 
 other feed is lacking. Its blossoms supply the best h.oney for bees. 
 
 Describe red clover. 
 
 Red clover (medium and mammoth) is, with the exception of 
 alfalfa, the most important legume for the northern farmer. It 
 supplies nitrogen to the soil, its long roots furnish humus, and, as a 
 feed, it helps to balance timothy which has a much too wide nutritive 
 ratio. Red clover ripens with timothy, which makes it a favorite with 
 farmers. It lasts about two years; and, if sown alone, will yield two 
 
46 TEE F AR M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 crops in a season. Turned under for green manure, clover makes a 
 better fertilizer than can be purchased. No progressive farmer will 
 attempt to get along without it. Sow the seed in the spring. 
 
 What is alsike clover? 
 
 Alsike clover is a shorter and more slender variety than the red 
 clovers and is somewhat earlier, which works to its disadvantage when 
 sown with timothy. It makes a finer hay than do the red varieties, but 
 it is not so good a yielder. Its merits seems to lie in the fact that it 
 will often succeed on soils where the other varieties will not grow. 
 
 What is crimson clover? 
 
 Crimson clover is an annual which should be sown in the fall. It 
 is often sown as a catch crop after early potatoes or as a cover crop 
 in orchards. It sometimes proves very valuable for early pasture. 
 About 15 pounds to the acre is used, when sown alone. It requires 
 good soil, needs considerable heat and does best south of the Ohio 
 River. 
 
 What may be said of the merits of sweet clover? 
 
 Sweet clover, found growing wild in many sections of the North, 
 is now becoming popular as a remarkable soil builder and as a feed 
 for stock. Its roots seem to be a better harbor for nitrogen forming 
 bacteria than either clover or alfalfa. It starts early in the spring 
 and will afford feed for twice as many cows per acre as will any other 
 crop. Cattle fed on it never bloat. It will grow on poor soil under 
 conditions where clover and alfalfa would fail. Sow seed at the rate 
 of fifteen pounds per acre. Seed and further directions for growing 
 may be had from A. A. Berry Seed Co., Clarinda, Iowa, or of E. 
 Barton, Falmouth, Ky. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 47 
 
 STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 
 
 Mention some of the secrets of successful strawberry culture. 
 
 If there is any secret of successful strawberry culture it is the 
 secret of plant selection, using the mother plants which show a ten- 
 dency to develop a heavier crown system and fruit-producing organ- 
 ism than other plants. This not only prevents varieties from deter- 
 iorating, but it also increases the fruitfulness of the variety. 
 
 What kind of soil is best adapted to strawberries? 
 
 Any soil that will produce flowers, vegetables or common farm 
 crops will also produce strawberries. Certain kinds of soils are not 
 so important as the manner in which the soil is prepared. If I were 
 to have a preference of soils, I would select sandy loam, or mellow clay 
 loam, not because these soils will grow better strawberries, but because 
 they are more easily worked. 
 
 How sJioidd a field be prepared for strawberries? 
 
 In preparing soil for strawberry plants it should be plowed late 
 in the fall, and during the winter months it should be covered with 
 manure, using at the rate of fifteen to twenty tons per acre, the quan- 
 tities of manure used depending upon the' present condition of the 
 soil. In the spring this manure should be thoroughly mixed with 
 the soil by discs, spring tooth harrow and such tools. If the soil is 
 deficient in phosphorus, it should have an application of 400 pounds 
 of bone meal applied to each acre and thoroughly worked into the soil 
 in connection with the manure. Phosphorus is the element which aids 
 plants m assimilating other ingredients which they could not use 
 without the phosphorus. This element also aids in bringing plants 
 into full maturity. About the only way a farmer may intelligently 
 determine whether or not his soil requires an application of' phos- 
 phorus is by the crops it produces. If his soil has been giving satis- 
 factory yields, it is more than likely that it contains sufficient phos- 
 phorus to build up a satisfactory crop of strawberries. 
 
 Mention some of the desirable varieties of strawberries. 
 
 There is a large number of varieties of strawberries, all of which 
 do well m some particular locality. The most dependable varieties 
 are those which have been tested throughout the United States and 
 have been found to be satisfactory in all classes of soil and under all 
 climatic conditions. These varieties are Early Ozark Warfield Glen 
 Mary Wilham Belt, Senator Dunlap, Haverland, Brandywine, Sample 
 and Chesapeake. This list of varieties will give the grower berries 
 from the very earliest to the latest. They are all productive varieties 
 and are universally popular. 
 
 When should strawberries be set? 
 
 _ The best time to set strawberry plants is just as early in the 
 spring as soil will permit. During the early spring months straw- 
 
48 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 berry plants are in a dormant condition ; the roots are calloused and 
 when properly pruned will send out feeding roots and begin growing 
 immediately. Fall planting is undesirable for the simple fact that 
 during the fall months plants are in a green, succulent, growing con- 
 dition and are perfecting their fruit-bud system, and to transfer them 
 at this time is a greater shock upon the plants than would be the case 
 if they were transferred in the spring during their dormant period. 
 
 Give directions for setting strawberry plants. 
 
 Strawberry plants should be pruned before setting. The tip ends 
 of the roots should be cut off with shears or a sharp knife. The roots 
 of the plants should extend straight down into the opening which is 
 niade in the soil for them, and the soil should be pressed up against the 
 roots very firmly. The crown or body of the plant should extend just 
 above the surface of the soil, as it is from this crown runners form, 
 which are important in the way of filling in the row to suit the grower. 
 
 What care should he given the plants the first year? 
 
 The first year plants are set they should liave thorough cultural 
 methods. The first cultivation should be given immediately after 
 plants are set, and these cultivations should be repeated every week 
 or ten days throughout a dry season, and cultivation always should be 
 done as soon after each rain as the soil will permit. Shallow cultiva- 
 tion is preferable, because the roots of strawberry plants work near 
 the surface and it isn't good practice to break any of these feeding 
 roots. Two weeks after plants are set they begin to blossom. These 
 flowers should be picked off, which will relieve the plant from under- 
 going the strain of pollen secretion. To allow a plant to fruit 
 soon after it has been set greatly weakens the plant and often causes 
 it to die. In a few weeks after plants are set runner plants will 
 begin to form. These runner plants should be allowed to set directly 
 in line with the original row and along each side of the rows until 
 each row of plants is about 12 or 15 inches wide. Runners which 
 form after the row has been made, should be pulled off and treated 
 the same as weeds. Cultivation should continue until late in the fall, 
 and during the early winter the plants should be mulched with straw 
 or some coarse material. 
 
 What care should he given the plants the second year? 
 
 After plants have fruited their first crop the vines should be 
 mowed off and if weather conditions are favorable the mulching, to- 
 gether with the old foliage should be burned. This destroys any in- 
 sects or fungus spores which may be present. When I speak of fa- 
 vorable weather conditions I refer to such conditions as will permit 
 the foliage to dry, so that it will burn quickly. But should it rain 
 soon after the vines are mowed off, it would prevent the burning for 
 several dnys, and in this case the plants would be sending up a new 
 growth, which would be injured by burning. In this event the mulch- 
 ing and old foliage should be raked into piles and hauled away. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 49 
 
 Is it necessary to spray straivherry plants? 
 
 It isn't necessary to spray strawberry plants unless some insects 
 are working upon the foliage. Should insects be present, a spraying 
 of arsenate of lead should be applied at once, using three pounds of 
 the arsenate of lead to fifty gallons of water, or seven ounces of Paris 
 green to fifty gallons of water. For smaller quantities of spraying 
 material use the insecticides according to the amount required for 
 the patch of plants which is to be sprayed. Should the plants be 
 affected by any fungus spores, such as leaf spot, blight or mildew, 
 they should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, using what is known 
 as the 4-4-40 solution. 
 
 How may the farmer get a good price for his strawherries? 
 
 If a farmer wishes to secure the top-notch price for strawberries, 
 he must grow the kind of fruit that will put him in a class by him- 
 self and the only way to accomplish this is to set a strain of plants 
 that are so perfectly developed in their fruit-producing organisms as 
 to make it possible for them to produce berries of the fancy kind. 
 In picking the berries they should be picked so that each berry will 
 retain its full calyx and a piece of the stem. This calyx and stem 
 will prevent air from getting into the berry, which will aid it in 
 holding its shape and color nicely. The berries should be graded when 
 picked, putting fancy berries and second-grade berries by themselves. 
 Then arrange the top of each box in an attractive way. If these 
 simple rules are followed, the farmer should have no trouble in 
 getting a price for his berries that will give him a larger return than 
 he could get from any other crop. 
 
 Hoiv often should new stratvherry plants he set? 
 
 Strawberry plants should not be allowed to fruit for more than 
 two seasons. Therefore, a new field of plants should be set every other 
 year. When plants are allowed to fruit for three or four years, they 
 become greatly deteriorated and conditions are made favorable for 
 insects and fungi. In some districts where strawberry plants have 
 been allowed to fruit for a number of years insects are doing con- 
 siderable damage and causing much alarm. 
 
 Is it profitahle to raise your own plants? 
 
 Only a few farmers and fruit growers find it profitable to grow 
 their own plants. Growing strawberry plants and nursery stock of 
 all kinds is a work which requires deep thought and great care and 
 unless this work is carried on along scientific lines it isn't profitable. 
 I certainly would not advise anyone to grow strawberry plants from 
 the plants which are allowed to fruit. This is very bad practice and 
 always results in a loss, because when plants are taken up from the 
 fruiting bed the roots of the plants which are left for fruiting are 
 interfered with, which naturally causes a loss of fruit. 
 
50 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What care should he given the plants when they are first received f 
 
 When plants are first received from the nursery the lid from the 
 plant crates should be removed and the crate set into a cool cellar 
 or cave, providing conditions will permit the grower to set plants 
 ^thin a day or two of their receipt. If for any reason the plants can- 
 not be set for several days after they arrive, a trench should be dug 
 in a shad}^ place and the plants heeled in. This work should be done 
 in the cool of the evening, and the soil where the plants are heeled 
 in should be thoroughly soaked, and the plants should be watered every 
 evening until they can be transferred to the field. 
 
 What is meant hij "male" a')id ''female" strawberry plants? 
 
 A male variety develops Mowers which have both male and female 
 organs. The center pistil cones of the flowers are surrounded with 
 anthers' or male organs, which are filled with pollen. When these 
 anthers become ripe they burst and the pollen is distributed over the 
 pistils at the receiving point and carried into the ovaries, which causes 
 the development of seeds, around which is formed the fleshy part of 
 the berry. The female varieties produce flowers of a strictly female 
 character, which develop only the pistil cones. The flowers of these 
 varieties must receive their pollen from male varieties. Therefore, 
 all farmers and fruit growers should bear in mind that the female 
 varieties should be set in rows between rows of male varieties. A 
 mistake at this point will cause not only a small yield of fruit, but 
 berries of ill-shape with hard, undeveloped ends. 
 
 How far apart should strawberry plants he set? 
 
 The distance rows should be made apart will depend entirely 
 upon the system growers propose following. The most popular sys- 
 tem for growing strawberries is what is known as the double-hedge- 
 row or narrow-matted row. Where this system is followed the rows 
 should be made three feet apart and plants set two feet apart in the 
 rows. These plants should be allowed to make enough runners to fill 
 in the vacancies between the original plants and enough runners to 
 form on both sides of the rows until the rows are about 12 to 15 inches 
 wide. This system requires 7.250 plants per acre. 
 
 Mention some causes of failure in strawberry raising. 
 
 1. Neglecting to keep out the weeds and grass. 
 
 2. Starting new fields from plants taken from worn-out fruiting 
 beds. 
 
 3. Lack of thorough and systematic cultivation. 
 
 4. Failure to burn over the old bed before starting it anew. 
 
 5. Failure to spray properly, if necessary. 
 
 6. Neglect to prepare a rich, mellow seed bed. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 51 
 
 RASPBERRIES. 
 
 What is the best soil for raspberries f 
 
 The raspberry prefers a sandy or light clay loam on a cool slope, 
 if possible. The soil should be fertile, well drained and contain plenty 
 of humus. 
 
 What are the leading commercial varieties of red raspberries? 
 Cuthbert, Marlboro, Golden Queen, Shaffer and Columbian. 
 
 When and how should red raspberry plants be set? 
 
 Set early in the spring from six to eight inches deep, so that the 
 roots will be well covered. If a large acreage, set in rows nine feet 
 apart and three feet apart in the rows. This will permit the use of 
 the manure spreader and give ample room for cultivation. If only a 
 small patch is to be set, the rows may be as close as six feet. 
 
 Hoiv should red raspberries be cared for? 
 
 Cultivate thoroughly and keep free from weeds. One row of 
 tomatoes or two of any other crop may be planted between the rows 
 the first year. _ When the plants are about two and one-half feet high, 
 pinch off the tips to thicken the stalks and encourage branching. The 
 plants will bear the second year. As soon as the crop has been picked, 
 the bearing wood may be cut out and removed. The plants increase 
 by suckers which will come up very thickly. Keep them cut between 
 the rows, leaving a narrow row about six inches wide for next season's 
 crop. In the spring cut from this row all weak and winter-killed 
 canes and prune the other back to about three cjnd one-half feet. 
 
 What is the best fertilizer for red raspberries? 
 
 Nothing is better than well rotted barn-yard manure applied with 
 a manure spreader. Ashes and hen manure are very good, as are also 
 muriate of potash and ground bone. 
 
 When should red raspberries be cultivated? 
 
 Begin to cultivate in the spring as soon as the soil will permit. 
 Care should be taken not to cultivate too deep. Keep the weeds down 
 and the suckers back. Good cultivation and plenty of fertilizer bring 
 the big berries. 
 
 How much may be realized from an acre of red raspberries? 
 
 This will depend upon the market, but sales may be counted upon 
 to run from $100 to $300 per acre. Growers usually give two cents 
 per quart for picking. Marketing in pint baskets is now becoming 
 popular, since the berries do not settle so muck and the price is usually 
 a little higher. 
 
52 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 How should black raspberries he set and cared for? 
 
 Black raspberries may be set the same as red ones. They propa- 
 gate from the tips which bend over and take root in the soil. To pre- 
 vent this the tips should be pinched off when they are about three 
 and one-half feet high. Some varieties of black raspberries have the 
 habit, the first year, of trailing on the ground. These long vines should 
 be kept in the rows; and when the tips begin to spread out and look 
 yellow they may be covered for new plants. They will take root and 
 the old stalk may be cut away in the spring. Black raspberries may 
 be kept in hills. As with the reds, the bearing wood may be cut out 
 as soon as the crop is gathered. All old wood should be piled and 
 burned. 
 
 What are the leading varieties of black raspberries? 
 
 Gregg, Black Diamond, Cumberland, Kansas and Plum Farmer. 
 
 How much may be realized from, an acre of black raspberries? 
 
 If good care has been taken of the field, black raspberries may 
 prove even more profitable than red ones. As high as $500 has been 
 realized from an acre, but this is exceptional. 
 
 What are the leading varieties of blackberries? 
 
 Blowers, Snyder, Eldorado, Lawton, Mersereau. Rathbun. Erie 
 and Ward. 
 
 How should blackberries be set and cared for? 
 
 Set same as red raspberries. Keep well cultivated and pinch 
 off tips when five or six feet high. Thin out suckers same as for reds 
 and remove old wood when through bearing. 
 
 What disease often attacks blackberries and how may it be eradicated? 
 Often blackberries are attacked by the "red rust," which may 
 be recognized by its resemblance to a red dust. The leaves and stalks 
 turn pale, wither and die. . There is no known cure for this disease. 
 Dig the diseased plants up and bum them. 
 
 EASPBEERY DON'TS, 
 
 Don't use soiled baskets. 
 
 Don't employ poor pickers. 
 
 Don't set out more than you can take care of. 
 
 Don't wait until the buds start before setting out in the spring. 
 
 Don't spoil your market by putting poor berries on the bottom. 
 
 Don't neglect to fertilize and cultivate, if you want a good crop. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 53 
 
 CURRANTS. 
 
 What are the best varieties of currant sf 
 
 Wilder, Cherry, Red Cross, Pomona, Fay's Prolific and Perfec- 
 tion. For a general purpose currant, the writer prefei^s the Wilder 
 to all other varieties. It is large, a good yielder, of good flavor and 
 hangs well on the bushes after ripening. The bunches do not dwindle 
 down to small fruit at the point, as is a characteristic of several other 
 varieties. 
 
 What care do currants need? 
 
 Currants require about the same care as raspberries. Grood crops 
 need not be expected unless the bushes have been well cultivated and 
 fertilized. They should be set in rows six feet apart each way. 
 
 What pruning do currants require f 
 
 A small part of the old wood should be removed each year during 
 the dormant period. As soon as the leaves start in the spring cut out 
 all sickly and dead canes and burn them. Borers are probably in 
 them, and in this way they may be kept in check. 
 
 Bow are currants propagated? 
 
 Currants are propagated by layering or by cuttings. To propa- 
 gate by layering, bend down, in the spring, strong, vigorous branches 
 and partially cover them with dirt. Roots will start at the points. 
 In the fall the branches may be separated from the parent plants 
 and a new plant started for every set of roots. 
 
 What enemies prey upon currants and^ how may they he destroyed? 
 
 Stalk borers, currant worms and white lice. To prevent the stalk 
 borers, cut and burn all dead stalks as soon as they appear. To kill 
 the currant worms sprinkle with fresh powdered hellebore in the morn- 
 ing while the dew is on. Currants must be watched closely for the ap- 
 pearance of worms. If not killed as soon as they appear, they will 
 soon strip the bushes of their leaves and destroy the crop. If there 
 are too many bushes to be dusted conveniently, they may be sprayed 
 with a solution of hellebore, using one ounce of the powder to ten 
 quarts of water. 
 
 The lice, which work under the leaves and cause them to puff up 
 in red spots, may be destroyed by spraying with a tobacco solution 
 or with a dilute solution of wliale oil soap. For these insects it will 
 be necessary to shoot the spray up under the leaves. 
 
 CURRANT DON'TS. 
 Don't let the worms get the start of you. 
 
54 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MARKET GARDENING. 
 
 What should he the first precaution when starting in the husiness of 
 
 market gardening? 
 
 Be sure that there will be a market for what you raise. The 
 art of finding markets and getting good prices ranks equal in im- 
 portance with the ability to grow good vegetables. It has often been 
 said of a gardener: "He knows how to raise good stuff, but does not 
 know how to sell it." While all produce may be sent to commission 
 men in nearby cities, the alert producer will contract with hotels, 
 restaurants and boarding houses for considerable above the wholesale 
 prices. 
 
 What kind of soil is adapted to market gardening ? 
 
 Deep, loamy soil, well drained and sloping toward th« south. In 
 other words, a market gardener must have what is known as "early 
 land" — land that can be plowed early in the spring and in which 
 seeds will germinate and grow before ordinary agricultural land can 
 be worked. 
 
 How should the market gardener's land he fitted for crops? 
 
 It should be rich and mellow. Deep plowing and thorough tillage 
 before planting are absolutely necessary for success. 
 
 Give some of the general rules for planting market garden crops. 
 
 Always plant in rows so that cultivation may be done either with 
 a horse or hand cultivator. The market gardener will have on his 
 hands a constant fight with weeds. If he has plenty of land, it will 
 be best to plant so that all can be cultivated with a horse. The direc- 
 tion on seed packages give distances at which the plants will mature, 
 but not the most convenient distances for working. 
 
 In what order may vegetahles he planted? 
 
 Lettuce, onions, cabbages, radishes and beets may be planted as 
 soon as the condition of the ground will permit. Beans, vines and com 
 should not be planted until the ground is warm and all danger of frost 
 is over. 
 
 What is the hest fertilizer for the market gardener? 
 
 As with nearly all crops, vegetables do the best with well rotted 
 stable manure. If this can not be had, a commercial fertilizer rich in 
 nitrogen should be used. 
 
 Give directions for raising heets for market. 
 
 Sow only the early red turnip varieties. The seed may be sown 
 by hand or with hand drills in rows at least 20 inches apart. The seed 
 should be covered about one-half an inch deep. When the plants are 
 about two inches high, thin to three inches. Keep the weeds down. 
 When the beets arc 2 to 3 inches in diameter they are ready for market. 
 
USPJFUL FACTS AND JWLEti FOR FARMJXCr 55 
 
 Pull, wash and remove all dead leaves. Tie in bundles of three each. 
 The price ranges from 15 cents to 30 cents per dozen bunches, accord- 
 ing to season and supply. 
 
 (live directions for raising onions for market. 
 
 Use sets and plant in rows 20 inches apart, half an inch deep and 
 abont tw^o inches apart in the row. When ready for market, cut off 
 the fibrous roots, pull off the outer discolored sheath and tie in 
 bundles of four. The price ranges about the same as for beets, 
 while the work of preparing for market is much less. 
 
 Ilo\r sliould cucumbers he planted? 
 
 In hills six feet apart each way. Dig a hollow, throw in one or two 
 shovelfuls of rotted manure, or a couple of handfuls of phosphate, mix 
 well with the earth, cover with fine dirt and plant 15 or 20 seeds cover- 
 ing 14 inch deep. After the plants are well started and safe from 
 bugs, thin to four or five of the best plants in a hill. This rule may 
 be followed for squashes and melons. 
 
 Tlow may vines he kept free from striped hugs? 
 
 If only a few vines are raised, get soap or craker boxes, knock out 
 the bottoms, cover with mosquito netting or wire door screen and place 
 over the hills. Boxes alone, by shutting off the cold wind, w411 cause 
 the vines to make a better growth than they otherwise would. If boxes 
 can not be used, the vines may be sprayed with an arsenate of lead 
 solution, or sprinkled with old slaked lime, or common road dust. 
 
 How should a garden he cared for in a very dry season? 
 
 Keep a tine dry mulch of dirt on the surface, same as for potatoes 
 and corn. Do not water the vegetables. Artificial watering has a 
 tendency to bring the roots toward the moisture on the surface ; and 
 unless the practice is kept up constantly and thoroughly, it will do 
 more harm than good. 
 
 WJ(at are some of the directions for raising cahhages? 
 
 Early cabbages should be started in a seed bed as early as the 
 ground can be worked. When they are five or six inches high they 
 may be transplanted in rows three feet apart and 20 inches apart in 
 the rows. This gives ample space for cultivation with a horse; in 
 fact, many growers plant as close as two feet. Cabbages are heavy 
 feeders and the ground should be rich to get good results. Late cab- 
 bages may be sown three or four weeks later than the early ones. 
 
 What must he done to protect the cahhages from cahhage worms? 
 
 Dust the cabbages with ''Slug Shot" or "Bug Death" as soon as 
 the worms are hatched. It will be necessary to go over the field two 
 or three times during the season. Devices for applying the powder 
 may be purchased of any seed firm. 
 
56 TEE F AB M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What is club root and how may it he prevented? 
 
 Club root {Plasmodiophora hrassicae), also known as "club foot" 
 and "clump foot," is a disease tbat affects the roots of cabbages causing 
 them to swell up in knots and bunches. The leaves of the plant gradu- 
 ally wither and then die. Turnips, cauliflowers, brussels sprouts, kale, 
 radishes, kohl-rabi and rutabagas are often affected by club root, but 
 not so badly as cabbages. The disease is caused by a micro-organism 
 which is not a bacterium nor a fungus, but a slime mold. There is no 
 sure preventive, but the following measures are recommended: 
 
 1. Be sure to start the young seedling in unaffected soil. 
 
 2. On small plots sulphur may be often used with very satis- 
 factory results. 
 
 3. Quick lime at the rate of 75 bushels to the acre, applied the fall 
 before, will be beneficial. 
 
 4. All infected leaves and roots should be collected and burned. 
 
 5. Don't raise cabbages successively on the same field. The 
 spores of the disease have great vitality and will live in the ground 
 from five to ten years. 
 
 6. Never feed the diseased parts to animals whose manure is 
 used on the soil. 
 
 7. If purchasing stable manure, see that it is free from the spores 
 of the disease. 
 
 What quick-growing fruit may he set to add to the income from the 
 
 garden? 
 
 Peaches, plums, dwarf pears, raspberries, gooseberries and cur- 
 rants. 
 
 What are some of the hest varieties of peaches for the North f 
 
 Early varieties: Greensboro, (> raves, Champion, Early Rivers. 
 
 and Early Crawford. 
 
 Later varieties : Elberta, Fitzgerald, Niagara, Late Crawford, 
 
 and Hale. 
 
 What is leaf curl and how may it he controlled? 
 
 Soon after the peach leaves come out in the spring they are apt 
 to curl up and become twisted into almost shapeless massses. The con- 
 dition is caused by a fungus which works in the inside of the leaves. 
 Leaf curl can be satisfactorily controlled by spraying the trees, while 
 dormant, with lime-sulphur solution, diluted at the rate of 1 to 10, or 
 with bordeaux mixture of the 5-5-50 formula. There are two com- 
 mon causes of failure: (1) The spraying is not done early enough, 
 and (2) it is not done thoroughly. When the buds begin to break, 
 it is too late to spray for leaf curl. The spraying must be done so 
 thoroughly as to cover the branches on all sides. 
 
 How may peach borers be controlled? 
 
 Dig out with a sharp knife, or kill by thrusting a wire into the 
 hole. Spray around the base of the tree with bordeaux mixture to 
 which arsenate of lead has been added. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 57 
 
 FLOWERS. 
 
 What are the best bulbs for fall planting? 
 
 Lilies, nareissus, tulips, jonquils, seyllas, snowdrops, crocuses and 
 anemones. 
 
 When should these bulbs be set? 
 
 Set bulbs any time between September and December. 
 How deep should bulbs be set and hoiv far apart? 
 
 Lilies, 12 inches apart each way, top of bulb to be 6 inches deep ; 
 narcissus, 6 to 12 inches apart, 4 inches deep ; tulips, 4 inches apart! 
 3 inches deep; jonquils, 6 inches apart, 3 inches deep; seyllas, 3 
 inches apart, 2 inches deep ; snowdrops, 2 inches apart, 2 inches deep ; 
 crocuses, 2 inches apart, 2 inches deep ; anemones, 4 to 6 inches apart' 
 1 inch deep. ' 
 
 What flowers may be raised profitably by farmers for commercial, 
 purposes? 
 
 Asters, gladioli, peonies, sweet peas and a few others. 
 (rive directions for raising asters. 
 
 Asters must be started in a green house, the seeds being planted 
 about the middle of March. When all danger of frost is over they 
 may be transplanted in the open ground, about 18 inches apart. Rich, 
 warm, sandy loam, containing plenty of humus is necessary for the 
 best results. Barnyard manure should be spaded or plowed under 
 the year before. Do not put manure in the hill. 
 
 How shoidd asters be prepared for market? 
 
 They should be cut with as long stems as possible. Pull off the 
 lower leaves and tie in bunches of twenty-five each. Begin packing 
 by making a pillow of crushed newspapers on which the blossoms 
 are laid, the stems resting on the bottom of the box. Begin the next 
 layer a little farther back, and so on until the box is full. Put in 
 the top of the box, before nailing on the cover, a paper with your 
 name, address and the number of bunches. 
 
 Where may asters be sold and at ivhat price? 
 
 They may be shipped to the flower commission men whose names 
 are listed in this book. They bring from 10 cents to 25 cents a 
 bunch, according to quality and season. Often contracts may be made 
 with large hotels to supply their tables with bouquets for the summer 
 season. 
 
 What variety of asters are most salable? 
 
 For early asters, queen of the market and break of day are the 
 best ; for late varieties, any of the large branching varieties are good. 
 Only white or pink asters should be raised for market. The heads 
 should be full, showing no yellow centers. 
 
58 TEE F AR M E E 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Wliat cautions should he observed in raising alters? 
 
 Look out for the black aster bugs which often destroy the crop. 
 They may be controlled by dusting with slug shot, or by knocking 
 off into a pan of kerosene or hot water. Do not put manure in the 
 hills and do not try to start teo many in the boxes ; if too crowded, 
 they are apt to wither at the base of the stems and die. 
 
 What are the cultural directions for stvcet peas? 
 
 Select a location where the peas will receive the sun all day. Dig 
 a trench about ten inches deep and a foot wide, place four inches 
 of well-rotted manure in the bottom and pack firmly. On top of this 
 place two inches of mellow soil, plant the peas in a row about one inch 
 apart and cover four inches deep with mellow dirt. Before the peas 
 are up a trellice should be made for them. Good stout brush is ideal 
 for this purpose ; but if this is not at hand, wire netting or strings may 
 be used. As the vines climb the trellice, a mulch should be filled in 
 around them to prevent drying out. Sweet peas need much moisture 
 and should be watered freely. 
 
 When shoidd sweet peas he planted f 
 
 Plant sweet peas in the spring just as soon as the frost is out of 
 the ground. They can not be planted too early. 
 Horv shoidd siveet peas he prepared for market f 
 
 City markets use only the light colored varieties of sweet peas, 
 white, cream, or light pink. They must be perfectly fresh, have long 
 stems and be tied in bunches of twenty-five each. The stems are 
 usually tied with a white thread, six or seven times around, and the 
 ends cut even. The blossoms should be picked every other day ; if they 
 are not picked, pods will develop and the vines will stop blooming. 
 
 What pests prey upon sweet peas? 
 
 Cutworms and soft-bodied lice are the worst enemies of sweet 
 peas. Lime will help to keep the cutworms away, or they may be fed 
 poisoned bran, as explained under "Insecticides." The lice may be 
 controlled by spraying the vines with a tobacco or a whale oil soap 
 solution. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 59 
 
 BEES AND BEE-KEEPING. 
 
 Where can bees he kept? 
 
 There are few places in the country where one or more colonies 
 of bees can not make honey. It is true that the natural surround- 
 ings may be unfavorable to the bees, but one who has had no experi- 
 ence is often astonished as to distance bees will go in search of the 
 nectar of the flowers. In almost every large city there are some bee 
 keepers who have bees right in the heart of the city, either in back 
 lots or on the roof of buildings. Ordinarily, bees will go from one 
 to three miles in search of nectar, but if there is none nearer they 
 will go much further. There are cases on record of bees going seven 
 miles from home. 
 
 What must he planted for hees to ivork onf 
 
 Strange as it may seem, it usually does not pay to plant anything 
 that is valuable only for the honey unless waste places such as road- 
 sides or fence corners can be utilized that would be of no value in 
 any other way. Very often the natural sources of nectar in a locality 
 can be augmented by the sowing of sweet clover seed, and since this 
 is becoming to be known as a valuable forage instead of a pest or 
 weed, as it was formerly called, there is no question but that it pays 
 to grow sweet clover for hay and thus secure some additional honey 
 of fine quality, also. However, it must be remembered that each 
 blossom yields only a small amount of nectar, henee there must be 
 hundreds of acres of any such plant before any great difference will 
 be noticed in the surplus honey produced if there are very many bees 
 in the locality. However, as stated first, almost every locality has 
 enough natural sources of nectar for supporting one or more col- 
 onies without any artificial pasturage. 
 
 Since alfalfa clover and alsike clover are being grown more and 
 more even by the farmers of the East, there is every reason to sup- 
 pose that there will be more honey produced from these sources in 
 the future than ever before. 
 
 // the honey-flow is light can sugar syrup he fed and, the honey thns 
 
 produced he placed, on the market? 
 
 Sugar syrup can be fed and honey produced from it, but strictly 
 speaking, such a product does not conform t(f the requirements of the 
 Pure Food Law. There need be no fear of such an article being put 
 on the market, for the bees consume so much syrup in the process 
 that the price received for the honey would not begin to pay for the 
 sugar and the labor of feeeding. Sugar syrup is often fed, however, 
 to supply winter stores, for it nikkes a safer winter food than many 
 of the honeys gathered late in the fall that are rather strong in flavor. 
 
 Do hees do well in a fruit country? 
 
 The fruit trees alone, unless there are acres and acres of them, 
 do not usually furnish enough honey to be noticeable in the surplus 
 
60 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 supply secured, but of course there are many exceptions to this in 
 localities where fruit is grown extensively. In this connection, how- 
 ever, it might be well to state that bees are a necessity in a fruit 
 growing locality, for without their aid the blossoms do not set, that is 
 the cross fertilization is not accomplished. It is true that other insects 
 and the wind distribute the pollen to a certain extent and thus 
 fertilize the blossoms, but at the same time, if there are no bees at all 
 a great many of the blossoms will not bear fruit. A simple experi- 
 ment may be tried to prove this : Cover a branch of blossoms with 
 coarse mosquito netting which will just prevent the bees from get- 
 ting through, and it will be found that the blossoms on this branch 
 will not bear fruit, even though the netting is removed as soon as the 
 petals fall. 
 
 Do hees work on ripe fruit and spoil itf 
 
 If the skin of the fruit has been punctured by some other insect 
 or by birds, it is true that the bees will work on the pulp and juice of 
 the fruit thus exposed, but such fruit would be unfit for market any- 
 way, hence the bees after all do no real harm. Bees by themselves 
 alone can not possibly puncture the skin of fruit. Sound fruit, if 
 kept carefully guarded from birds and other insects, will be un- 
 touched by the bees. This has been demonstrated over and over 
 again. 
 
 Mow many colonies of hees can one man care fort 
 
 This depends on the man and so this question can not be 
 definitely answered any more than one could positively say how 
 many acres of land one man could farm. However, one man with a 
 little help in the busiest part of the season can usually care for as 
 many as five hundred colonies, if he is experienced. Colonies of 
 bees, in order to produce good results, must be properly taken care 
 of. A thousand weak colonies not in good condition for producing 
 surplus honey by the time the main honey-fiow opens, will not pro- 
 duce as much as ten colonies that are very strong and in the very 
 best condition at the time the main flow begins. 
 
 Is it possible to remove hees from Jiollow trees or the walls of a 
 huildingf 
 
 Yes, this may be done without trouble, but the easiest way is to 
 cut down the tree or r«move some of the siding of the building, as 
 the case may be; but if this is impractical a device known as a bee 
 escape may be placed over the opening or entrance which will allow 
 the bees to pass out but will prevent them from going back again. 
 If a hive containing comb is arranged close to the opening on the out- 
 side, all the bees may be secured in this way, or practically all of 
 them except the queen. A new queen will have to be on hand and 
 introduced to the bees. Most of the modern books on bees describe 
 the various processes of transferring bees from trees or buildings into 
 hives, so that one who is desirous to start in this way need have no 
 particular difficulty. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 61 
 
 What profit can reasonably he expected? 
 
 As much as $10.00 per colony has been secured, but this is con- 
 siderably above the average. $2.00 to $3.00 a colony would be a 
 safe figure. 
 
 Hoiv much increase can he expected in a yearf 
 
 If natural swarming is allowed, a fifty per cent increase is per- 
 haps an average. No colony should be allowed to swarm more than 
 once, for the parent colony is too greatly reduced in strength if more 
 than one normal swarm issues. Professional bee keepers usually 
 make their increase artificially, however, and it is not at all a dif- 
 ficult matter to double the number of colonies in a year. In fact, 
 an expert, when all conditions are favorable, can increase a three- 
 frame nucleus which is only about one-third the size of an ordinary 
 colony into ten full size colonies by fall, but of course this is be- 
 yond the reach of the average amateur. 
 
 Will heating tin pans, ringi^ig hells, etc., stop sivarms? 
 
 No. Almost every swarm immediately after it issues will soon 
 cluster anyway at some convenient point until the bees get their bear- 
 ings. How the custom of beating tin pans, etc., started no one knows. 
 If a swarm is inclined to make for the woods at once, the bees can 
 be made to cluster very quickly if a good spray pump is at hand for 
 a good drenching so wets their wings that they are forced to cluster 
 until they can dry off. 
 
 What kind of hees are the hest? 
 
 There are not as many different varieties of bees as of poultry, 
 for instance, owing to the fact that since the mating of the queens 
 and drones takes place in the air, the male parentage can not be con- 
 trolled, hence if a number of different varieties of bees were kept in 
 the same yard they would soon be hopelessly mixed up and a mongrel 
 bee be the result. The Italian bees are preferred by the majority of 
 bee keepers in this country, although the Carniolan bees are begin- 
 ning to be used somewhat, as are also the Caucasians. 
 
 How many kinds of hees are there in a colony f 
 
 During the early part of the summer a normal colony consists 
 of one queen, the only perfect female in the hive — several hundred 
 or thousand drones (the male bee) — and anywhere from twenty to 
 fifty thousand worker bees, which are the undeveloped female. The 
 queen is not the ruler of the hive as was formerly supposed, but is 
 simply the mother — she lays the eggs. A good prolific queen in the 
 height of the season will lay from two to four thousand eggs per 
 day, or nearly twice her own weight in twenty-four hours. Con- 
 tinual feeding by the worker bees enables her to do this. The drone 
 is the male bee and he has no sting nor any suitable tongue with 
 which to work ; hence the drone does no work, not so much because he 
 is lazy but because he has no tools to work with nor weapons with 
 
62 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 which to defend the hive. The workers are stunted females, and as 
 their name indicates, they do all the field work such as bringing in 
 pollen, nectar, etc. 
 
 Can one who takes care of hees keep from being stung f 
 
 Yes, if necessary, one can so protect himself with a good veil, 
 gloves, etc., that there is practically no danger of receiving a sting; 
 but practical bee keepers after they have been stung a very few times 
 are not bothered very much in this way, for the stings lose their 
 affect, that is the system becomes immune to the poison and no bad 
 affects, whatsoever follow. 
 
 7s there any danger of bees stinging neighbors or their cattle? 
 
 There is some danger, but at the same time very little. Occa- 
 sionally, sweaty cattle or horses if allowed to get in the direct line 
 of flight of the bees, will irritate them so that they may be stung, but 
 after all, such instances are not the usual thing. If proper precau- 
 tions are taken, neighbors need not be annoyed in any way. 
 
 What is meant by ''comb" and ''extracted" honey f 
 
 Comb honey is produced by the bees in small, square boxes and 
 is sold in this way just as the bees left it. The extracted honey is the 
 liquid honey thrown out of large combs filled by the bees, in a centri- 
 fugal honey extractor which works somewhat on the principle of a 
 cream separator. That is, the liquid honey is thrown out of the cells, 
 leaving the comb as good as ever and it is put back in the hive and 
 filled again by the bees. For this reason the extracted honey is 
 cheaper as the bees do not need to build new comb each time. 
 
 Which is the more profitable to produce, comb or extracted honey f 
 
 This depends largely upon circumstances. One who has but a 
 few colonies had better produce comb honey, for the equipment re- 
 quired for extracted honey production is quite expensive and the 
 outfit would usually not be warranted for only a very few colonies. 
 Professional bee keepers, the majority of them at least, produce ex- 
 tracted honey largely. Nearly twice as much of the latter can be 
 produced as of comb honey, but at the same time it brings about only 
 half as much in the market as comb honey. 
 
 When extracted honey crystallizes is that an indication that it was 
 
 adulterated with sugar f 
 
 No, for almost every kind of pure honey will granulate or 
 crystallize in time. Some kinds of honey produced in the south will 
 crystallize in only two or three days time, but usually from two to 
 six months is required. The honey may be returned to the liquid 
 state by heating it gently in hot water. For the very best results the 
 water surrounding the dish of water should be no hotter than 140 
 degrees. A temperature much higher than this if kept up very long 
 will give the honey a burnt flavor. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 6:{ 
 
 WJiat kind of a hive is the best? 
 
 This question can not be answered definitely. Complicated patent 
 hives are usually very little if any better than the cheap wooden boxes 
 that they are sold to replace. Dealers in bee supplies sell a standard 
 ten-frame hive that is preferred by the majority of honey producers, 
 but if comb honey is to be produced the upper part of the hive should 
 be of a different style than if the bees are run for extracted honey. 
 
 What are the different parts of a bee hive? 
 
 A regular bee hive consists of a tloor or bottom board; a brood 
 chamber which contains the ten frames that surround the comb; the 
 super that holds the square sections for the surplus honey, and the 
 cover. The brood chamber is a plain box usually with notched or 
 dove-tailed corners to give added strength, and with the ends of the 
 box babbeted at the top to hold the projections of the top bars of the 
 frame that surround the comb. The bees are induced to build the 
 combs in these frames by means of a sheet of what is known as comb 
 foundation that is suspended in tlie middle of each frame, which acts 
 as a pattern to enable the bees to build their combs straight. If this 
 were not used they might build the comb crosswise of the frame or in 
 bunches and clusters, so that it would be impossible to separate one 
 comb from another for purposes of inspection. The super or upper 
 part of the hive gets its name from the fact that it holds the superabun- 
 ance of honey. The modern bee kpeeper does not rob his bees ; that is 
 he does not take from them honey that they require for their own food, 
 but simply removes the surplus of which there is often ten times as 
 much as they could possibly use themselves. 
 
 When bees do not work properly in the super what must be done to 
 
 correct the difficulty? 
 
 If there is a good honey-fiow and still the bees are not storing the 
 honey in the super, the chances are that the colony was not strong 
 enough in bees to be in good condition when the honey-flow opened. 
 Such colonies often do not get in good shape until the main flow is 
 over, and of course no surplus honey is then produced. If the queen 
 is not prolific this also would cause trouble, for the empty room in the 
 brood nest tempts the bees to store the honey there rather than above, 
 and when they get into the habit of storing below they do not readily 
 change and store the honey above in the super. 
 
 How ca7i the finished honey be removed from the hive? 
 
 The old way was to set the hive over a hole in the ground in which 
 there was some burning sulphur, and after the bees were all killed to 
 take the honey out with a spade. The modern beekeeper as mentioned 
 above, does not remove the honey the bees need but simply takes the 
 surplus. A board containing what is called a bee escape, is placed be- 
 tween the super and the brood chamber and the bees go down through 
 into the lower part and can not get up again. In a few hours they are 
 all out of the super and the surplus honey can then be removed without 
 
64 TEE F AB M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 the knowledge of the bees. There is then no uproar, no stings, no con- 
 fusion and no trouble of any kind. 
 
 Cfl/n comb honey he manufactured hy machinery so as not to he told 
 
 from genuine? 
 
 No, this is impossible. Comb honey has never been made by ma- 
 chinery and never will be in spite of many newspaper statements to the 
 contrary. The A. I. Root Company of Medina, Ohio, in order to show 
 conclusively that there is no such thing as manufactured comb honey, 
 has, for nearly thirty years, had a standing offer of $1000.00 for a 
 single section of comb honey made by machinery that so nearly re- 
 sembled the natural product as to deceive the average person. The 
 fact that no one has ever been able to claim this money, shows conclu- 
 sively that there is no such article on the market. There are plenty of 
 reasons why such a feat would be impossible, but lack of space forbids 
 the mention of them here. 
 
 Do hees have diseases? 
 
 There are a few diseases of the adult bees such as dysentery, bee 
 paralysis (not like paralysis of the human family) ; but the most 
 serious diseases are those of the brood such as American or European 
 foul brood. These, however, may be easily cured unless the bee keeper 
 is so negligent as to allow his whole yard to become diseased before he 
 does anything about it. 
 
 What is done with hees during the winter? 
 
 If the colonies are not already in double walled hives the space 
 between being filled with shavings or leaves, a winter case may be put 
 over the regular hive and packing material put in after which a water 
 proof cover is put over the whole thing; or the colonies may be win- 
 tered in a cellar which is kept reasonably dark and even in tempera- 
 ture. Except in the nothern part of the northern states, however, it 
 is usually safer to winter on the summer stand in double walled hives 
 or other hives especially packed for the cold weather. It does no harm 
 even though the hives be covered with snow, unless the entrances 
 should get stopped solid with ice. 
 
 // colonies die through the winter may new swarms the next season 
 
 be put in the same hives? 
 
 If the bees did not die because of the result of the disease foul 
 brood, but simply starved or chilled, there is no harm in putting new 
 swarms in these same hives. By careful attention however, the winter 
 loss may be reduced to a very small per cent. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 65 
 
 THE ORCHARD. 
 
 How can the orchard he made to pay? 
 
 By proper pnmmg, spraying, cultivating, fertilizing and drainage. 
 
 When should the orchard he pruned? 
 
 It has been said that every month in the year is the time to pnine 
 orchards, but it is the safest to prune during the winter time when 
 the trees are dormant. Hendrick, of the Cornell Experiment Station, 
 gives the following "General Facts and Principles," which every fruit 
 grower should know : 
 
 1. Winter pruning increases the vigor of the plant. 
 
 2. Summer pruning decreases the vigor of the plant. 
 
 3. Root pruning decreases the vigor of a plant. 
 
 4. Prune weak growing varieties heavily in the winter; strong 
 growing sorts, lightly. 
 
 5. Suckers or watersprouts are often the effect of over-pruning. 
 
 6. Heading-in thickens the top. 
 
 7. Checking growth by girdling, notching or twisting may induce 
 fruitfulness, but at the expense of vigor. 
 
 8. Heavy pruning of young trees delays fruiting. 
 
 9. All pnming must take into account the habit of growth of the 
 tree. 
 
 10. Some fruits bear on this year's wood, others on that of last 
 year, and still others on older growths; pruning must take the age of 
 bearing wood into account. 
 
 How should old orchards he pruned? 
 
 Do not prune too much at one time. The first year remove little 
 more than the dead, diseased and injured limbs and the wT.tersp routs 
 from the trunk of large limbs. The next year remove all cross limbs 
 tnd thin out small branches so that the sun may enter freely. Cut out 
 every limb that touches or rubs another. 
 
 What care should he taken in pruning? 
 
 When entire limbs are removed, cut close to the main trunk. If 
 a stub of a limb is left, it will rot and cause a hollow. If surfaces of 
 cuts are more than one inch in diameter, they should be painted. Do 
 not cut off large limbs unless they are in the way. If they must be 
 cut, saw on the under side first. 
 
 When should spraying hegin and ivhat shoidd he used? 
 
 1. Spray before the leaf buds open, using commercial lime-sul- 
 phur, one gallon to eight gallons of water. 
 
 2. When the pink of blossoms show, spray again, using one 
 gallon of lime-sulphur to forty of water. Add two pounds of arsenate 
 of lead for every fifty gallons of solution. 
 
66 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 3. When two-thirds of the petals have fallen, repeat, and two 
 weeks later use same again, 
 
 4. Other spraying solutions are good, Bordeaux being the favor- 
 ite of many. It is, however, not so effective as lime-sulphur. Care 
 should be taken not to use the solutions too strong. 
 
 How should spraying solutions be applied f 
 
 As a fine spray under considerable pressure. It will readily be 
 seen that, in order to make apple raising profitable, the orchard must 
 be large enough to justify the purchase of effective spraying apparatus 
 and the construction of tanks for the easy and convenient mixing of 
 spraying fluids. 
 
 Mention some of the pests that infest the orchard. 
 
 Bud moth, canker worm, codling moth, San Jose scale, oyster 
 shell scale, scrufy scale, blister mites, tent caterpillar, and many others. 
 
 Describe the San Jose scale. 
 
 The San Jose scale has the appearance of a minute oyster shell, 
 but is darker in color. It thrives on the bark of trees, and, if not 
 checked, will kill the trees, giving them a rough, brown appearance. 
 The scale is carried from tree to tree on the feet of birds. Trees 
 affected with it must be sprayed thoroughly and persistently. Besides 
 lime-sulphur, some of the commercial spraying mixtures are excellent 
 preventives. 
 
 Give the life story of the codling moth. 
 
 The codling moth is a small, gray moth that causes a large pro- 
 portion of the wormy apples. The eggs are laid on the leaves or skin 
 of the fruit. When hatched the worm enters the blow end of the fruit 
 and the poison must be ready for its first meal. This is the reason 
 why the arsenate of lead or Paris green is added to the lime-sulphur or 
 Bordeaux. If the worm is not killed, it bores its way into the center 
 of the apple where it remains and feeds until it is full grown. It 
 then leaves the apple, crawls down the trunk of the tree and spins a 
 cocoon under the loose bark. The next spring it emerges from the 
 cocoon, a moth, and again begins laying eggs. In some sections two 
 broods are hatched in one year. 
 
 Give rules for plowing and harrowing the orchard. 
 
 Plow shallow in the spring, as soon as the condition of the soil 
 will permit, and cultivate thoroughly. After putting the soil in good 
 tilth, harrow often enough to keep the weeds down and a good dust 
 mulch on the surface. "Remember that cultivation is essentially man- 
 ure." Go over it again after each rain, or as soon as the ground is in 
 condition to work. Cease cultivating about the middle of July and 
 sow a cover crop. 
 
 What may be sown for cover crops f 
 
 Buckwheat, oats, field peas, crimson clover, rye, soy beans, rape, 
 or turnips. These should be allowed to ripen and rot on the field. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 67 
 
 What are the uses of the cover crop? 
 
 1. To regulate the moisture in the soil. 
 
 2. To supply humus to the soil. 
 
 3. To supply plant food to the soil. 
 
 All legumes take nitrogen from the air and supply it to the soil ; 
 turnips take food that no other plants can obtain and decaying leave 
 it for following crops. 
 
 What quantity of seed per acre should be used for cover crops f 
 
 Buckwheat, 1 bushel; oats, II/2 bushels; field peas, 2 bushels; 
 clover, 15 pounds; rye, 1 to ly^ bushels; clover, 15 pounds; soy beans, 
 3 to 4 pecks ; turnips, 4 pounds. 
 
 What is a good fertilizer for the orchard and how should it he applied? 
 Barn-yard manure is the best that can be used. Spread it uni- 
 formly over the entire orchard, using one load to every three trees. 
 Never pile manure around the trees. 
 
 If barn-yard manure is not available, ivhat commercial fertilizers may 
 
 be used for the orchard? 
 
 If a legume is used as a cover crop, the following makes an ex- 
 cellent additional fertilizer: one part of muriate of potash to 11/2 
 parts of ground bone. If no legume is used, add 1 part of nitrate of 
 soda to the above. 
 
 Is fertilizer for the orchard necessary? 
 
 Experiment stations disngree upon this point. However, if the 
 ground is properly tilled and there is a cover crop which is allowed 
 to die and rot on the field, no other fertilizer will be necessary, unless 
 the land is very light. The theory that orchards should be heavily 
 fertilized in order to yield is a mistake. The roots go deeply into 
 the ground and come in contact with a vast amount of plant food. 
 Apples are largely made up of water and do not require so much 
 other plant food as was formerly supposed. 
 
 When setting out a new orchard, ivhat varieties shall I plant? 
 
 Each one must decide this for himself. First, find out what 
 varieties do best in your locality. Avoid the untested, new varieties. 
 Most nursery catalogs advertise a bewildering number of varieties; 
 but it is safe to say that not more than a dozen of them would prove 
 profitable to you. 
 
 How should young trees be cared for when first received from the 
 nursery? 
 
 Set them out as soon as possible. Do not expose them to the hot 
 sun. If they are not to be set out at once, place the roots of the trees 
 in a trench and cover them with fine, moist earth. 
 
 In setting out an orchard, how far apart should the trees be placed? 
 From 35 to 50 feet, according to variety. Greenings may be set 
 closer than Baldwins. Forty feet is a good average. 
 
68 TEE F A n M E B 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Give rules for setting the trees. 
 
 1. Trim off all broken ends of roots. 
 
 2. Dig a hole large enough for the roots to lay straight and deep 
 enough to set the tree two inches deeper than it was in the nursery. 
 The depth in the nursery may be noted by the color of the bark. 
 
 3. Spread fine loamy soil over the small roots and press it 
 down. 
 
 4. See that no open air-spaces are left under the roots. 
 
 5. Tramp the soil above the roots down, but leave it loose on top. 
 
 6. Remove at least three-fourths of the top of the tree, other- 
 wise, since nearly all the roots are gone, the leaves will dry the tree to 
 death. 
 
 7. If the roots are dry (which should never happen) dip them 
 in water before setting. 
 
 At what age should trees he planted? 
 
 One-year trees receive less shock from transplanting than two- 
 year trees, and come into bearing just as soon. 
 
 How long does it take an apple tree to come into hearing? 
 
 The time differs with different varieties. As a rule, apples that 
 ripen early come into bearing early and vice versa. The Bismarck will 
 sometimes bear the second year after planting, while the Northern 
 Spy has been known to wait 18 years before fruiting. Trees grown 
 on well-tilled land will bear much sooner than those raised on sod. 
 
 Give a, ride for computing the nnmher of trees to the acre. 
 
 Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the 
 trees are apart in the rows and the product will be the number of trees 
 to the acre. The same rule gives the number of plants or hills to the 
 acre. 
 
 What is the most favorahle location for an orchard? 
 
 On a north or northeast slope and on rather high ground. If 
 planted on a south slope, the orchard is liable to suffer in dry seasons. 
 All orchard land should be thoroughly surface drained and under- 
 drained. 
 
 Mention some of the leading commercial varieties of apples. 
 
 Baldwins, Spys, Kings, Greenings, Gravenstein and Wealthy. 
 
 What are some of the early varieties? 
 
 Sour: Red Astrachan, Duchess of Oldenberg, Striped Harvest, 
 Yellow Transparent, Pameuse. 
 
 Sweet : Golden Sweet, Sweet Bough. 
 
 For kitchen use and eating "out of hand" the Sweet Bough, 
 Fameuse and Red Astrachan make a combination that is hard to beat. 
 Mcintosh Red and 20-ounce Pippin would make a valuable addition 
 for late fall. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 69 
 
 What method is used hy some orchardists to prevent the trunks of 
 the trees from, splitting f 
 The main limbs are held together by living wood braces. When 
 the tree is young, sprouts on the sides of the branches a short distance 
 above the crotch are grafted together and firmly held in place. In a 
 short titme they grow into a strong brace and will hold the limbs in 
 place, however loaded the tree may be with fruit. 
 
 What birds feed on the larvae and eggs of the apple pests f 
 
 Nut hatch, chicadee, woodpecker and a few others. Encourage 
 the birds to work for you. Never fire a gun in the orchard. 
 
 How may further decay he prevented, if the tree has a rotten spot in 
 trunk or limhf 
 Remove all the rotten wood, disinfect with corrosive sublimate, 
 1 part to 1,000 parts of water, and fill with cement. In lieu of the 
 corrosive sublimate solution, common Bordeaux mixture may be used. 
 If the cavity is large, use stones and fill in with cement around them. 
 
 Will hogs or sheep benefit the orchard? 
 
 Hogs will benefit the orchard, unless in their search for grubs, 
 they uproot the trees. Sheep, turned into the orchard after the crop 
 is harvested, will improve it. 
 
 What care should be taken by those who pick the apples'! 
 
 Care should be taken not to break the short fruit-bearing twigs. 
 The next year's crop may be almost totally destroyed by carelessness 
 in this regard. 
 
 ORCHAED DON'TS. 
 
 Don't neglect to prune, spray and cultivate. 
 
 Don't spray while the trees are in full bloom. 
 
 Don't prune old orchards too much the first year. 
 
 Don't try to raise apples on wet soil. 
 
 Don't prune with an axe. 
 
 Don't cut off the lower limbs. 
 
 Don't leave stubs. 
 
 Don't use dull tools. 
 
 Don't climb the trees, use a ladder. 
 
 Don't fail to cut the highest branches. 
 
 Don't omit painting all wounds over an inch in diameter. 
 
 Don't prune in the fall if your winters are long and cold. 
 
 Don't prune when the wood is frozen. 
 
 Don't leave limbs that cross and rub. 
 
 Don't prune young trees too hard. 
 
 Don't expect to do in one year what has been neglected for ten. 
 
 Don't hurry in pruning old trees. 
 
 Don't let a tree be lop-sided. 
 
 Don't fail to cut the under side of large branches first. 
 
 Don't omit pruning the center of the tree. 
 
 Don't allow the prunings to stay in the orchard, burn them. 
 
70 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 WEEDS. 
 
 What is a weed? 
 
 There are several definitions of a weed, viz.: "A plant out of 
 place"; **Any injurious, troublesome or unsightly plant that is at the 
 same time useless, or comparatively so"; "A plant that interferes 
 with a farmer's crops." 
 
 Why are weeds injurious? 
 
 1. They absorb water from the soil and lessen the supply for 
 useful plants. 
 
 2. They use up the plant food which useful plants need. 
 
 3. They shade, crowd and choke out useful plants, 
 
 4. They increase the cost of all operations. 
 
 5. They may interfere with the profitable rotation of crops. 
 
 6. Some weeds are poisonous to stock. 
 
 7. Milk is often tainted by cows eating such weeds as Wild 
 Garlic or Stink Weed. 
 
 8. Weeds often harbor and favor the development of injurious 
 insects and fungus diseases. 
 
 9. Weed seeds decrease the value of seed grain, clover, grass and 
 alfalfa seed. 
 
 10. Weeds detract from the value of a farm. No one will buy 
 a weedy farm when he can get a clean one at the same price. 
 
 How are weed seeds distrihuted? 
 
 1. By the wind. Many seeds have light silky hair attached to 
 them so that the wind can catch them easily; as, dandelion, Canada 
 thistle, etc. 
 
 2. By water. Some seeds may be carried a thousand miles by 
 water without injuring their vitality. The common Speedwell and 
 Ragweed are often distributed in this way. 
 
 3. By birds and animals. "It is estimated that about 10% of 
 all flowering plants possess seeds that are dispersed by means of 
 barbed or cleaved processes." To this class belong the Beggar Ticks, 
 Burdock, etc. Other plants, such as Mistletoe and Meadow Saffron, 
 exude sticky substances that cling to birds and animals. Seeds often 
 pass through the stomachs of birds or animals without being digested 
 or having their vitality impaired. 
 
 4. By man. Along railroad tracks, in all kinds of packing, in 
 barnyard and stable manure weed seed are lodged and distributed. 
 Where animals are fed weeds take root and flourish. When imple- 
 ments are transferred from one field to another they frequently carry 
 seeds in dry dirt. This is dislodged and the seeds take root and grow. 
 Many of the most injurious and troublesome weeds of America came 
 with seeds from foreign countries. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 71 
 
 How are weeds classified? 
 
 1. Annuals, which germinate, bloom, fruit and die in one season, 
 
 2. Biennials, which fruit the second year and then die. 
 
 3. Perennials, which last from year to year, blooming and seed- 
 ing annually. 
 
 How may perennials be divided? 
 
 1. Those with underground creeping stems; a^, Canada Thistle, 
 and Quack grass. 
 
 2. Those with roots that do not spread under ground; as. Chic- 
 ory and Plantain. 
 
 Mention some of the principles of weed eradication. 
 
 1. Do not let weeds go to seed. Cut those on the roadsides, 
 headlands, in waste places, in fence corners and in pastures. 
 
 2. Remember that the best time to get rid of weeds is before 
 they are firmly established. 
 
 3. Sow only pure seed. Foul seed is dear at any price. 
 
 4. Be careful in harrowing weeds with perennial underground 
 roots that the short broken pieces of roots are not dragged all over 
 the field. Every joint will start a new plant. 
 
 5. See that the separator is cleaned before being brought upon 
 the farm. 
 
 6. Sheep and goats will eat and check weeds that can often be 
 destroyed in no other way. 
 
 Mention the different methods of weed eradication. 
 
 1. Rotation of crops. 
 
 2. Hoed crops. 
 
 3. Summer fallowing. 
 
 4. Early after-harvest cultivation. 
 
 5. Seeding down. 
 
 6. Pasturing sheep. 
 
 7. Smothering. 
 
 8. Hand Pulling. 
 
 Why does rotation of crops help to check weeds? 
 
 Certain kinds of weeds seem to flourish best with certain crops; 
 as, the Pig Weed, Red Root and Barn Grass with corn and potatoes. 
 When a different crop is placed upon the same ground these are 
 checked. 
 
 Give the rule for figJtting iveeds in hoed crops. 
 
 Begin hoeing and cultivating before the roots are well estab- 
 lished ; otherwise the roots will be merely cut off and will immediately 
 start again. The farmer often makes a costly mistake in thinking 
 that his potatoes or corn do not need cultivating until the weeds are 
 
72 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 four or five inches high. Going through them when the weeds are 
 just peeping out of the ground is as effective as four times after thvj 
 weeds are well established. 
 
 What may he said for or against the practice of .wmmer falloivirig as 
 
 a means for destroying weeds? 
 
 Summer fallowing is one of the most effective means for eradi- 
 cating weeds. The objections to it are that it destroys humus and 
 one year's crop is lost by it. It renders, however, a larger amount 
 of soluble plant food available and assists in conserving moisture for 
 the next year's crop. In Washington and some of the other north- 
 western states where a crop is raised only every other year, the land 
 being harrowed one year, it is said the crop is equal to what would 
 be obtained if one were raised each year. Thus the cost and labor 
 of putting in and harvesting one crop is saved. 
 
 What weeds may he destroyed hy early after-harvest cultivation? 
 
 Plowing shallow immediately after a harvest destroys the winter 
 annuals ; as, False Flax, Cockle and Wormseed Mustard. Other weeds 
 are set back. 
 
 What may he said in favor of seeding down as a method of destroying 
 
 weeds ? 
 
 Fields overrun with some kinds of weeds, particularly annuals, 
 may be cleaned by seeding to grass. This method has the advantage 
 of little expense and labor. The hay should be cut early before the 
 weeds are mature. 
 
 How may weeds he smothered out? 
 
 Sow some quick growing crop, such as rape or buckwheat. These 
 crops will quickly cover the ground and, in their weakened condition, 
 the weeds will be smothered out. 
 
 Hov) may quack-grass he destroyed? 
 
 As soon as the crop is harvested plow lightly and harrow. If 
 the roots are present in large quantities, they may be raked up with 
 a hay rake and burned. Harrow frequently during the remainder of 
 the season. If the season is dry, nearly all the roots will be destroyed- 
 In the spring plant corn or potatoes and keep the grass down by 
 hoeing and cultivation. This will destroy the roots that have survived 
 the other processes. Canada thistles may be destroyed in the same 
 way. 
 
 Is it advisahle to sow quack-grass seed for pasture? 
 
 "Were it not for its weedy character, quack-grass would be a 
 valuable forage plant. It makes fair hay and is relished by cattle 
 when pastured; but because it so readily becomes a weed, it is un- 
 safe to plant." — Cornell Leaflet. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 73 
 
 How may sorrel be eradicated f 
 
 Sorrel indicates poor, sandy, or gravelly soil. It prefers sour 
 soil, hence liming and manure is the best remedy. 
 
 How may ivild parsnip he eradicated? 
 
 Wild parsnips and wild mustard, like any of the other biennials, 
 may be killed out by preventing them from going to seed. 
 
 What important measure can a farmer take to prevent weeds? 
 
 He can be sure that there is no weed seed present in his seed 
 grain. Very little study will be necessary to enable the farmer to 
 identify foul seeds. A common reading glass or small microscope 
 will be necessary for their examination. Farmers' Bulletins 260 and 
 382 will assist in identifying different varieties. A good fanning mill 
 will be necessary for the recleaning of seeds before sowing. 
 
 Is spraying a good method of eradicating weeds? 
 
 Spraying with a solution of 100 pounds of iron sulphate or 12 
 pounds of copper sulphate to 50 gallons of water will kill wild mus- 
 tard and some other weeds. A machine should be used that will give 
 fine spray under considerable pressure. Fifty gallons of the solu- 
 tion will be sufficient for one acre. For killing weeds in walks a 2 
 per cent solution of sodium, arsenate, about eight gallons to the 
 square rod. may be used. 
 
 WEED DON'TS 
 
 Don't let the weeds get the start of you. 
 Don't sow weedy seed. 
 
 Don't fail to cut the weeds along the sides of the road and in 
 fence corners. 
 
74 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 THE PASTURE. 
 
 Docs the average farmer paij enough attention to the improvement of 
 
 his pasture? 
 
 He does not. Swales, waste places and unprofitable meadows are 
 often turned into pasture with little or no attempt to improve their 
 condition. The pasture should be the most profitable land on the 
 farm. It should not only yield plenty of grass, but such a variety as 
 will afford the stock a balanced ration. The drainage of a piece of 
 wet pasture land, or the substitution of a good sod of mixed pasture 
 grasses for the red top and white grasses of the pasture are matters 
 of vital importance to the farmer. 
 
 Suggest some good seed mixtures for a permanent pasture. 
 
 No. 2. 
 lbs. timothy, 
 lbs. red clover, 
 lbs. alsike clover, 
 lbs. Kentucky blue grass, 
 lbs. tall meadow fesque, 
 lbs. orchard grass, 
 lbs. red top. 
 
 What is a good mixture for wet, sour land! 
 
 Five pounds of timothj^, 5 pounds of red top, 5 pounds of alsike 
 clover and 3 pounds of white clover. 
 What is the most important pasture grass, and why? 
 
 Kentucky blue grass. It spreads from the roots without going 
 to seed; it starts early in the spring; it is much relished by all kinds 
 of stock. Although pure seed is hard to get and somewhat costly, no 
 pasture sliould ever be without it. Timothy, at its best, is good for 
 only about four years, and should be sown in pastures only to supply 
 feed while the other grasses are getting started. 
 
 Should a field sown with a permanent pasture mixture he mowed he- 
 fore turning into pasture? 
 It would be best to mow the grass for hay at least once. 
 
 How may an old pasture that can not he plowed he improved? 
 
 Lime it, if sour. Spread a coat of manure over it with a manure 
 spreader. Sow one of the pasture seed mixtures on places where the 
 grass is thin as early as you can get on the ground. 
 
 Can sodium nitrate he profitahly used on an old pasture? 
 
 Yes; if the land is in need of nitrogen. Use about 200 pounds 
 to the acre. A trial test of a half acre should demonstrate whether 
 it would be profitable to continue the treatment. 
 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 10 lbs. 
 
 timothy, 
 
 5 
 
 4 lbs. 
 
 red clover. 
 
 6 
 
 3 lbs. 
 
 alsike clover. 
 
 4 
 
 2 lbs. 
 
 white clover. 
 
 4 
 
 3 lbs. 
 
 Kentucky blue grass. 
 
 2 
 
 2 lbs. 
 
 tall meadow fesque, 
 
 3 
 
 2 lbs. 
 
 alfalfa. 
 
 2 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 75 
 
 Will sheep improve a pasture? 
 
 A few sheep in a weedy pasture will much improve it. They will 
 eat weeds that cows will not touch, thus giving the grasses a better 
 chance to grow. Too many sheep will injure the pasture by close 
 cropping of the grasses. 
 
 Will mowing the pasture imth a machine improve it? 
 
 Mowing the pasture twice a year will help to check the growth 
 of weeds and prevent many of them from going to seed. The cutting 
 should be high in order not to injure the grasses. 
 
 PASTURE DON'TS. 
 
 Don't pasture too early in the spring. 
 Don't turn a poor meadow into pasture. 
 
 Don't neglect to fence off the poorest part of the pasture and tit 
 it with a permanent pasture mixture. 
 
 Don't let the weeds in the pasture go to seed. 
 
 Don't fail to do a little to improve the pasture every year. 
 
76 T~H E FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 FORESTRY 
 
 What is the average price per M. feet obtained at mills for all of the 
 
 principal New York woods? 
 
 White Oak $46.25 
 
 Red Oak 38.49 
 
 Chestnut 28.56 
 
 Sugar Maple 27.07 
 
 Beech 20.54 
 
 Cherry 46.22 
 
 Hickory 43.03 
 
 Ash .; 38.49 
 
 Birch $30.07 
 
 Elm 28.37 
 
 Basswood 27.36 
 
 White Pine 27.70 
 
 Spruce 21.31 
 
 Hemlock 19.82 
 
 Yellow Poplar 40.47 
 
 In establishment of a Farm Woodlot Plantation which is best pure or 
 mixed planting? 
 
 Owing to the diversity of the uses for wood on the farm, the 
 mixed planting is to be desired as some of our quick growing, light- 
 wooded species can be utilized for fuel while the heavier hard woods 
 may be utilized for repairing the farm tools, etc. The mixed stand 
 has advantage over the pure stand also in taking advantage of the dif- 
 ferent soil qualities. The moisture demanding species do better on the 
 low lands and the other species do better on the drier locations. 
 Mixed species tend to produce cleaner timber on account of the fact 
 that the trees have a tendency to prune each other. Next the damage 
 due to outside danger such as insect pests, wind storms, etc., on account 
 of the fact that a great many of the trees will not be subject to the 
 same insect pests as some others and also due to a difference in the root 
 constructions of the trees in a mixed stand. The crowns of the dif- 
 ferent species will more thoroughly utilize all the atmospheric space 
 than will a stand of only one species. This may also be said to be 
 true regarding the matter of soil protection. The forest floor will 
 be more amply protected from the direct rays of the sun and the 
 eroding action of heavy rains far loss. For small farm woodlots a 
 mixed plantation is far more preferable. Forest conditions are 
 established quicker with mixed planting than in pure plantings. 
 
 What is the best method of storing over winter black walnuts and 
 similar forest tree seeds? 
 
 In the storage of any forest tree seeds it is well to mimic nature. 
 Those seeds that fall naturally to the ground such as our nut seeds, 
 acorns, etc., should be kept in a moist place, fairly even temperature 
 over winter. The best method is to pit them. This is done by 
 digging a trench of a size to accommodate easily the amount of seed 
 on hand as in the case of black walnut. Spread a layer of black 
 walnut over the bottom of the trench; cover this with clean sand 
 of the same thickness ; then another layer of nuts and another layer 
 of sand until the nuts are all stratified in this way. Care should 
 
USEFUL FAC1\S AND RULES FOR FARMING 77 
 
 be taken that this pit is located where there is good soil drainage 
 preferably where the direct rays of the sun will not warm up the 
 soil too early in the spring as on a north slope or in the shade of some 
 buildings. 
 
 What is the best way to propagate tvillows and poplarsf 
 
 Poplars and willows are among the easiest of our tree species to 
 be propagated vegetatively or by cuttings. Theoretically any plant 
 may be propagated by taking a cutting and rooting it. The best way 
 to make cuttings for poplar or willow is by making cuttings from 
 the previous year's growth 8 to 10 inches long about the size of a large 
 lead pencil. The best season to make these is in February and March. 
 These cuttings are tied into bundles 25 to 50 in each bundle and are 
 placed tops down in a box filled with moist sand or moist sawdust. 
 The base ends which have been turned up will slowly callous over and 
 small rootlets will appear. The rapidity of this development depends 
 a great deal on the amount of heat. Cuttings should not be forced too 
 rapidly. After the soil is ready the cuttings should be planted on the 
 proposed areas. As soon as the callous is well developed care should 
 be taken that the cuttings are placed in the ground at a slight angle 
 and that no more than 1" or IVo" of the tops shows above the surface. 
 Poplar and willow handled in this way will make a. rapid growth. 
 
 What is a forest tree seedling? 
 
 The term seedling is applied to any forest tree during its first 
 growing season before transplanting has been done. The height 
 growth of seedlings of some of our trees are as follows : 
 
 Ajiierican Elm 6 to 12 in. i Hardy Catalpa 24 in. 
 
 Honey Locust 8 to 12 in. j White Vine 3 in." 
 
 Sugar Majilos 12 in. i White Spruce . . 2 in.' 
 
 Black Locust 24 in. Black Walnut 12 in. 
 
 Basswood 6 to 1 2 in. I 
 
 What is the best time to prune shade trees? 
 
 The best time to prune shade trees is the dormant period. Usually 
 from November first until the first of April in this latitude. However, 
 if the pruning is done early in winter giving away of the tissue of the 
 wood in freezing and thawing may occur. In pruning the surface 
 wound should be smooth and parallel to the surface of the trunk of the 
 tree. An application of white lead or some other good paint should be 
 made immediately. Care should be taken in the development of the 
 callous covering this wound that it develops evenly over the entire 
 surface. Do not prune trees in spring on account of bleeding. Do not 
 prune trees in dry mid-summer on account of defoliating. 
 
 Having a stand of mixed hardwoods in a ivoodlot, it is desired to ascer- 
 tain the ^lumber of board feet contained in the stand. 
 Methods used in doing this work are usually termed "cruising." 
 There are several methods which are good. One method is to go 
 through and first determine the least diameter which it is anticipated 
 will be cut. Go through the stand and determine the different species 
 by ocular estimate the number of logs which it is possible to obtain 
 
78 THE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 from the tree. The contents of these logs may be ascertained by apply- 
 ing the Doyle rule. The Doyle rule is simple. It assumes that any 
 log 16' long is equal in feet board measure to the square diameter re- 
 duced by 4. Thus a log 24" in diameter 16 feet long would be esti- 
 mated as 24 minus 4x24 minus 4 equals 400 feet board measure. If 
 the log was 18' long instead of 16' 400x18/16 or 450 board feet. Other 
 diameters and results may be worked out accordingly, thus giving the 
 total volume of the stand. 
 
 Having on hand a quantity of white pine seed, hoiv would you raise 
 
 white pine seedlings? 
 
 In a well drained soil, white or sandy loam where the soil is in 
 good mechanical condition in fair fertility, prepare the seed bed 4 feet 
 wide and as long as necessary to accommodate the seed on hand. This 
 area should be spaded or plowed at least 9" deep in the fall and thrown 
 up to the action of the weather. The freezing and thawing will kill 
 out a great many of the insects and tear down soil particles making it 
 much easier to work. As early as it is possible to rake the ground in 
 the spring the area should be raked over carefully, or if there is a 
 large area disked and cross disked, then harrowed with a spike-tooth 
 harrow and then raked by hand. After the area has been thoroughly 
 raked, then it should be rolled and raked lightly. The seed should 
 then be distributed over the surface broadcast so that there will be 
 about one seed to each square inch. The area should then be rolled or 
 planked lightly thus pushing the seed down into the soil the same 
 depth to which the seed is wide. Then there should be sifted lightly 
 over the top sandy loam of the same fertility to a depth sufficient to 
 cover the seed. After this application a light ring of humus soil taken 
 from underneath decaying leaves and litter in the woods, 
 should be made. After this second application, pine seedlings or straw 
 should be placed over the bed 5" or 6" thick. If straw is used care 
 should be taken not to introduce grain or weed seeds. The bed should 
 be watched and as soon as it is seen that the seeds begin to germinate 
 the mulch or straw or leaves should be removed and a lath screen of 
 50% shade should be constructed over the bed. The screen may be 
 held up by stakes 18" high. Care should be taken to protect the bed 
 from birds. Do not leave the screen on during rains. Remove the 
 screen every afternoon between 4 and 5 o'clock and do not place it on 
 the bed until between 7 and 8 o'clock in the morning. In this way the 
 bed gets the advantage of the fall of dew and has good air ventilation. 
 At the end of the first growing season these seedlings should be from 
 21/2" to 3" high. Protection for winter: Where the soil is inclined to 
 heave with frost light mulch should be spread over the seedlings. It 
 should be put on after the surface of the soil is thoroughly frozen and 
 remain on until after the danger of sudden changes in temperature are 
 past in the spring. 
 
 What is heeling inf 
 
 Heeling in is the operation in the temporary holding of tree stock 
 from the time it has been received in shipment until it may be planted 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 79 
 
 or for the temporary holding of stock for the transplanting. A trench 
 is dug sufficiently deep to accommodate the roots of the stock to be 
 heeled in. A layer of seedlings are then placed in the trench, dirt is 
 thrown over and packed down thoroughly ; then another layer of seed- 
 lings are placed on the top and a little deeper than the first layer; 
 more dirt is placed on the roots and this operation is kept up until all 
 the seedlings are cared for. Heeling in should be done in a well- 
 drained, shady location, preferably in soil that is easily worked. The 
 tops should be laid toward the north as vegetative process will be re- 
 tarded more than it would were the tops pointed toward the south on 
 account of the direct rays of the spring sun. 
 
 What is tlie best method of treatment for preserving fence posts from 
 
 decay? 
 
 Fence posts should be cut a year or a year and a half before they 
 are actually required for use. They should be cut in the winter when 
 the trees are in a dormant state and should be piled as soon as possible, 
 piling in open crib form in order to thoroughly season. If they are 
 piled in this way the seasoning will take place rapidly and they should 
 be thoroughly dry within one year. One of the simple treatments to 
 prevent decay is to char the base of the fence post in a band where the 
 post when set will be at the dirt line, decay takes place more rapidly 
 where the air and moist soil come together. This charring should be 
 done thoroughly, at least I/4" to 1/2". By thoroughly charring the ex- 
 pense is very slight, only a matter of labor. 
 
 Another good method is to apply creosote. A thorough manner 
 to do this is by placing the posts in a tank so that they are covered to 
 about one half their length. Heat the creosote to a boiling point. As 
 soon as the boiling point is reached immerse the posts in cold creosote. 
 The hot creosote having opened up the pores of the wood and driven 
 out the excess moisture, when the post is immersed in the cold creosote 
 the cold oil will rush in and bathe the pores. One barrel of oil will 
 treat about 200 posts, depending on the size and species of wood used. 
 The cost of treatment will be about 5c each. One barrel of creosote of 
 52 gallons costs about $5. Such a preservative treatment about 
 doubles the life of our ordinary fence posts. Without further treat- 
 ment than seasoning a white cedar post quartered to 6" face will last 
 10 to 15 years. White oak 6'' round post 8 years. Ash. beech and 
 maple 3 or 4 years ; willows 6" in diameter piled and thoroughly dried 
 6 to 7 years. 
 
 When is the best time to clear land of small growth f 
 
 Cut during the last part of July or August. At this time plants 
 are exhausted from their efforts to store up food, and it will be difficult 
 for them to recuperate and start a new growth. 
 
80 THE F A R M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 CEMENT AND CONCRETE. 
 
 What is Portland Cement f 
 
 Portland Cement is a finely powdered material resulting from the 
 burning of a properly proportioned mixture of limestone and shale, 
 or clay. In other words the materials used must consist largely of 
 lime and clay and must be mixed chemically in proper proportions. 
 
 What is concrete ? 
 
 Concrete is in reality an artificial stone made from cement, sand 
 and broken stone or gravel. These materials are properly propor- 
 tioned so as to form a dense mass, the voids of the stone being filled 
 by the sand and the voids of the sand filled by the cement. The ma- 
 terials must be thoroughly mixed and a sufficient amount of water used 
 to make a mass of a jelly-like consistency. Due to the action of water 
 and cement it will begin to stiffen in half an hour or so, will set up 
 in from ten to twenty-four hours, and in a month will be hard as a 
 rock. 
 
 Mention some of the purposes for which Portland Cement may he 
 
 profitably used on the farm. 
 
 Portland Cement may be used on the farm for a great variety of 
 purposes, some of which are the making of foundations, walls and 
 floors for houses and barns, for silos, tanks, cisterns, fence posts, walks 
 and such work of a general nature. 
 
 How should cement, sand and gravel he mixed for walks f 
 
 For this purpose the common method is to make a base consisting 
 of one part cement, 2i/4 parts sand, and 5 parts of gravel ; this is to be 
 covered with a top coat about an inch thick made of a mortar one part 
 cement and two parts of sand. 
 
 What proportion of cement, sand and gravel should he used for water- 
 ing troughs? 
 The common mixture employed for this type of construction is 
 
 one part of cement, two parts of sand, and three parts of gravel, the 
 
 idea being to have a mixture which is rich in cement in order to make 
 
 as dense a concrete as possible. 
 
 Would cement walls he the cheapest for barns or houses? 
 
 The cost of concrete construction depends largely upon the lo- 
 cality. In some places the sand and gravel can be obtained at very 
 slight cost and often for the mere cartage. The cost of forms is an 
 item for consideration, and frequently the lumber used can be em- 
 ployed for the construction of a building. Concrete does not require 
 skilled labor as in the case of wood or brick work. In first cost con- 
 crete is considered more expensive than wood. However, concrete 
 does not burn, rot, and has no cost for maintenance, and thus in the 
 end concrete should compare very favorably with any type of con- 
 struction. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 81 
 
 C(m cinders he used in place of gravel? 
 
 Cinders are used for making concrete where strength is not very 
 important for instance, in some types of floor work cinders answer the 
 purpose of gravel, and in foundation work where mass is the principal 
 quality desired cinder concrete is also employed. 
 
 Will concrete harden under water f 
 
 Portland Cement is a hydraulic material, and thus concrete made 
 of this cement will harden in water or air. 
 
 How long will cement keep? 
 
 Portland Cement can be kept practically indefinitely when it is 
 stored in a dry place and protected from moisture and dampness. 
 The way Portland Cement is injured in storage is by coming in contact 
 with moisture. This of course results in its hardening. It is some- 
 times reconditioned that is. broken up and finely pulverized by passing 
 through a screen, but best results cannot be expected from recondition- 
 ed cement. 
 
 What is the quantity of cement in a barrel? 
 
 One barrel of cement holds 3.80 cubic feet and consists of four 
 bags. 
 
 What kind of sand should he used for making concrete? 
 
 It is particularly important in making concrete to use a good 
 quality of sand and gravel. The making of concrete is essentially a 
 manufacturing operation, and it can be spoiled as easily by poor aggre- 
 gate as by poor cement. The sand should be coarse, hard, and clean, 
 and the gravel clean and durable. A very small percentage of vege- 
 table matter will render aggregate unfit for use. That which contains 
 mica in any appreciable quantity should also be discarded and not 
 used for the purpose of making concrete. Sometimes the grains of 
 sand are coated with clay which prevents the obtaining of good re- 
 sults, as cement cannot unite the grains of sand when they are in such 
 a condition. Sand and gravel which contains dirt or loam can be 
 easily washed according to the instructions given in "Concrete Con- 
 struction about the Home and on the Farm," published by the Atlas 
 Portland Cement Company. 
 
 Can sea tvater he used in making concrete? 
 
 It is not advisable to use sea water in mixing concrete on account 
 of the chemicals contained therein. 
 
 Can concrete he made ivaterproof ? 
 
 By the selection of good, clean sand and gravel, by making the 
 concrete of a maximum density, by using a mix of rather wet con- 
 sistency — that which will just flow sluggishly — and by placing the 
 concrete in one continuous operation, it is possible to obtain a concrete 
 which will be water-tight under all ordinary pressures. 
 
82 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Is concrete affected by firef 
 
 Under fire concrete has proven very serviceable and in fact is one 
 of the best fireproof materials known. It is used largely for this pur- 
 pose, such as encasing columns and beams in fireproof construction 
 work. It is a very good non-conductor of heat and from one to two 
 inches of concrete or mortar has been found to protect the material 
 underneath. In some cases where the surface has become slightly 
 cracked and checked under severe heat it has been found that this has 
 affected the concrete to a depth of not more than two inches. Concrete 
 can be depended upon to resist all ordinary fires. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 83 
 
 PERTINENT QUESTIONS FOR FARMERS' WIVES. 
 
 What is the first necessity in rural sanitation f 
 Plenty of pure water. 
 
 What is the safest way of disposing of household waste? 
 
 A septic tank, (which any farmer can construct) to take care of 
 the waste from the laundry, kitchen, lavatory and toilet. Table wastes 
 not suitable for the farm animals should be burned or buried. 
 
 Why are flies dangerous as well as annoying? 
 
 They breed in tilth and never "wipe their feet." They carry 
 typhoid and other germ diseases from excreta and other dangerous 
 sources to the food on the table and the baby's bottle. 
 
 Is night air dangerous? 
 
 It is not, because at night it is the only air we have, except the 
 impure air we have locked up in our sleeping rooms. In the cities 
 night air is more free from dust and germs than in the daytime during 
 traffic and when factories are throwing off smoke and gases. Air that 
 is warmed by the sun is better. The sun should penetrate every room 
 in the house. Sun will destroy germs. Sleeping out of doors is get- 
 ting very common and the practice is warding off pulmonary diseases 
 and keeping us free from colds. 
 
 How does ventilation affect health? 
 
 Poor ventilation means impure air and impure air affects health. 
 Every house should be constructed so there may be an escape for the 
 impure air and an inlet for supply of fresh air and still be comfortable. 
 -Cold air does not always mean fresh air. Cloth windows break the 
 direct force of the draft and protect the occupants of a room. A large 
 draft striking the entire body is not as dangerous as a small draft 
 striking a small portion, such as the back of the neck. 
 
 What types of disease are strictly preventable? 
 
 Those spread largely through intestinal discharges as, typhoid, 
 etc. Those through discharges from the throat and nose as, tuber- 
 culosis, common colds, etc. Insect borne diseases, like yellow fever, 
 etc. Miscellaneous diseases ; food and mouth diseases. 
 
 Is an unpleasant odor a menace to health? 
 
 Gases that are thrown off are waste products which pollute the 
 air thus making it impure. They are a menace*to health. 
 
 Is there a safe headache remedy? 
 
 Headache is not a disease, but a symptom. The cause should be 
 removed rather than the pain deadened. Headache remedies are 
 largely coal tar products which depress the heart. They tend to 
 draw the blood from the brain and overwork the heart. Their persis- 
 tent use causes insanity. 
 
84 TEE F A R M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What are some of the rules of good health? 
 
 Plenty of pure water inside and outside the body. Pure food, 
 exercise, fresh air night and day. Thinking well thoughts. For- 
 getting ourselves in serving others. 
 
 What is the difference in effect between a hot and cold hath? 
 
 The cold bath should be taken after exercise or after a hot bath 
 when the body is warm. A cold bath should not be used by one who 
 cannot get a healthy glow after the rub. The hot bath opens the 
 pores of the skin. It should not be taken just after a meal or when 
 brain work is to be done. To some the hot bath is very debilitating 
 while it generally tends to produce sleepiness. 
 
 Should a housekeeper "take time off" every day? 
 
 She should rest frequently. The tread mill fashion of working 
 kills the imagination and affects the nerves. By stopping to relax 
 several times a day, more can be accomplished in a given time. Large 
 corporations are trying this out with their employes purely from an 
 economic standpoint and it pays them in dollars and cents. It will 
 pay the housekeeper because she will have more time to "make a real 
 home." Housekeeping is not always "homemaking. " 
 
 What is the hest substitute for mother's milk? 
 
 Cow's milk given under the direction of a trained nurse or a 
 physician. Cow's milk contains more protein than the mother's milk 
 and should be diluted with water. 
 
 Should children he allowed to drink coffee or tea? 
 
 Children should never be allowed tea, coffee, beer or other stimu- 
 lants. 
 
 What constitutes a good school lunch? 
 
 Egg, meat or peanut butter sandwiches, bread and butter and 
 jelly, apples, oranges, custards, cookies and pie occasionally. Nuts and 
 raisins, a few pieces of candy. Candy and nuts should never be given 
 on an empty stomach. If children are allowed pure candies in mod- 
 erate amounts at the right time, they will not unduly crave and buy 
 the cheap and adulterated kinds found at the "corner grocery." 
 Homemade candies are best. Children must have a certain amount of 
 sweet in their diet. 
 
 Is it safe to give children patent medicines? 
 
 Most emphatically no. No remedies should be given except under 
 the direction of the family physician, except the simple home remedies. 
 The so-called soothing syrups contain opiates and are deadly in their 
 effect. Patent medicines of all kinds for children and adults should 
 be avoided like a plague. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 85 
 
 Wliat are the general rules that govern the cooking of \a) meats, (h) 
 eggs, (c) starchy foods, (d) vegetables? 
 
 (a) Meat and eggs are classed as protein foods and are therefore 
 subject to the principles of protein cookery. Meat and eggs should 
 not be cooked at a high temperature, as high temperature will toughen 
 the protein and render it less readily digested. Meat is composed of 
 muscle fibres held by connective tissues. The muscle fibres toughen 
 when boiled, the connective tissue becomes soluble and is then 
 known as gelatine. Generally the more the connective tissue, the 
 tougher the meat. Thus if tough cuts are cooked a long time below 
 the boiling point the fibres become tender and the connective tissue is 
 softened. Tender cuts of meat such as beef steak, are seared in order 
 to toughen the outside of the meat and thus retain the juices. 
 
 (b) Eggs being a protein food should be cooked at the boiling 
 point. Soft cooked and hard cooked eggs are more palatable and 
 easily digested if cooked in water just below the holing point than if 
 cooked a shorter time in boiling water. Fried eggs, scrambled eggs 
 and omelets should be cooked at a low temperature. The same prin- 
 ciple applies to the making of custards. If they are subjected to high 
 temperatures the protein coagulates, toughens and curdles. 
 
 (c) Starch is made up of many tiny grains which do not dis- 
 solve in cold water but which absorb water, swell and burst when they 
 are subjected to moist heat. In this form it is easily digested. 
 
 Starchy vegetables, white sauces and cereals should be cooked in 
 such a way that the starch grains swell and burst and a palatable 
 flavor is developed. This requires continued cooking by moist heat. 
 
 (d) All vegetables belong to one of two classes. They are either 
 strong or mild juiced. The strong being onions and cabbage and 
 these should be cooked in liberal amounts of water in an uncovered 
 pan. The mild juiced should be cooked in a small quantity of water 
 in a covered pan. Vegetables should not be overcooked as they are 
 unpalatable and develop strong flavors which may be very irritating 
 to the digestive tract. 
 
 Is it desirable to use commercial canning powders? 
 
 It is undesirable to use canning powders. While the occasional 
 use of vegetables canned with these powders may not show immediate 
 ill effects, the continued use may result in serious effects upon the 
 health. It is entirely possible to keep all vegetables and fruits in- 
 definitely by sterilization, therefore why run a risk by using powders ? 
 
 What foods are good substitutes for meat ? 
 Milk, eggs, cheese, nuts, legumes. 
 
 What is the test of a good hroom? 
 
 One that is "even" enough to stand alone when placed on the 
 floor. It should have a smooth, straight handle and should be of 
 medium weight. 
 
86 TEE FARMEB.S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Is there a practical dish-washing machine for the private homef 
 
 The majority are too expensive and only few are practical. The 
 Fearless Dishwashing Machine Co., Rochester, N. Y.. makes a good one, 
 but it costs $30. With a large family it might prove a good invest- 
 ment. 
 
 Are paper towels, paper dish cloth, etc., a good investment f 
 
 Not as an investment. They cost too much. Paper towels are 
 very convenient in the kitchen and save some washing. From a sani- 
 tary point of view they are desirable for rural schools, railway stations 
 and public lavatories. Public towels should never be used. They 
 are disease carriers. 
 
 What are some of the hest finishes for kitchen walls and floors? 
 
 Paint makes the best finish for a kitchen wall where steam is in- 
 evitable. The walls are easily wiped off. The kitchen should be 
 painted a bright cheerful color. A dark and dingy kitchen is an 
 abomination to the one who has to spend so many hours in it. Lino- 
 leum makes the best floor covering. It has a certain amount of " give 
 to it that the bare floor does not have. It is easier to stand on while 
 at work. Rubber heels are excellent to prevent the continual jar 
 which affects the head and spine. 
 
 Are vucuum sweepers better than the ordinary carpet sweeper? 
 
 They should hardly be compared, as we cannot get along without 
 the ordinary carpet sweeper for "brushing up" a little every day. 
 The vacuum cleaner is indispensable for housecleaning as it saves 
 taking up carpets and stirring up dust all through the house. It is a 
 labor saving device and every housekeeper should have one. 
 
 Can "dustless dusters" he made at home? 
 
 A good duster can be made by using the ordinary machine oil 
 which is used for the farm machinery, and ' ' cutting ' ' it with kerosene. 
 Saturate cheese cloth with this and you have a cheap and satisfactory 
 duster. Some prefer to buy the black cheese cloth. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 87 
 
 MAKING MAPLE SUGAR. 
 
 //( ii-hat states may maple sugar he made? 
 
 In all the New England and the Middle States. 
 
 What trees supply sap for maple sugar? 
 
 Only the rock, or hard maple. Never tap the soft maple ; it may 
 be distinguished by the color and shape of its bark. 
 
 What kind of sugar utensils should he used? 
 
 Use metal spouts and the best tin buckets. Covered buckets are 
 not necessary. The farmer may build his own arch, using stones or 
 fire brick, or he may purchase an arch already to set up. He can use 
 an evaporator or a sheet-iron pan. 
 
 What are the secrets of good, sugar making? 
 
 1. Fresh, clean sap ; 2. rapid boiling ; 3. frequent syruping off. 
 The buckets and all other utensils must be absolutely clean and sweet. 
 The sap should not be allowed to stand in the buckets longer than 
 twenty-four hours. Twelve hours would be better. Strain the sap 
 when it is gathered and again when it is run into the store tub. It is 
 not what is put into maple syrup that makes it white, but what is kept 
 out. The darker the sugar, the more impure it is. Maple syrup, if the 
 process of making were perfect, would be as colorless as the sap from 
 which it is made. "When the sap is put into the pan it must be kept 
 boiling vigorously until it is syrup. Long boiling, even if the sap 
 is kept clean, will cause the color to become red. If light colored 
 syrup is wanted, syrup off at least every twelve hours. 
 
 What should he done to the sap while it is hoiling? 
 
 With a long-handled skimmer remove every particle of scum or 
 dirt that appears on the surface. 
 
 Wliat should he done with the pan after syruping off? 
 
 The pan should be thoroughly washed and rinsed before more sap 
 is run into it. This may seem a waste of time, when more sap is wait- 
 ing to be boiled ; but light-colored sugar can not be made without 
 doing it. 
 
 What may be done with the sweetened ivater oljtnined by washing the 
 pan? 
 
 It can be made into vinegar. Let settle and strain into a clean 
 cider or whiskey barrel which should be left with the bung hole open, 
 covered with a fine wire screen. 
 
 Hoiv is one to knoiv when it is time to '^ syrup off?" 
 
 By the behavior of the syrup when poured off the edge of a dipper 
 or skimmer. When it no longer runs off in small drops, but seemf 
 thick and viscid, it is ready to "syrup off." 
 
88 THE FAR3IER8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 After syruping off, what must he done to prepare the sijrup for the 
 
 ynarketf 
 
 Place in a smaller pan and boil to proper thickness ; strain through 
 felt cones (made on purpose) or good wool (flannel) to take out the 
 "lime" or "sugar sand;" let it cool and settle and can in self-sealing 
 tin cans that hold a gallon each. Fill the cap-neck even full so as to 
 exclude all air and then screw the cap down tight with small gas 
 pliers. Keep in a cool, dark place and it will hold its rich maple 
 flavor well for a year or more. 
 
 If it is desired to make the sugar into cakes, the syrup is boiled 
 until it thickens and the wax breaks. Then it is taken off, stirred 
 rapidly and poured into moulds. 
 
 What part of the season is the best for maple sugar making? 
 
 The first runs make the best sugar. In order to be good sugar 
 weather it must freeze during the night and thaw days. Whenever 
 there is a protracted warm spell the buckets should be laid down to 
 drain. 
 
 What is the cause of the rock candy so often found in the bottom of 
 
 the cans of maple syrup f 
 
 If syrup is boiled so thick that it weighs more than eleven 
 pounds to the gallon, the legal weight, it is apt to crystallize at the 
 bottom into clear rock candy or into granulated sugar. In glass cans 
 that stand in the light the granulated sugar is more often formed. 
 Keep your syrup in a cool place not exposed to the light. 
 
 Give rule for tapping the trees. 
 
 It is better not to tap trees that are under ten inches in diameter. 
 If the trees are two feet or more in diameter, two buckets may be 
 used to a tree. In tapping use the metal, flanged spouts that require 
 a half-inch bit. The hole should be bored about two inches deep, 
 slightly slanting. When the season is well advanced it may be slightly 
 deepened. In "tapping over" do not bore new holes in the trees. 
 
 \ 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 89 
 
 PROFITABLE POULTRY RAISING. 
 
 How may the different varieties of chickens be classified f 
 
 1. The egg breeds. These mature early, begin laying when quite 
 young, are nonsitters and light of weight. Leghorns, Minorcas, Ham- 
 burgs and Cicilian Buttercups are representatives of this class. They 
 lay white eggs. 
 
 2. The general purpose breeds. These include the Plymouth 
 Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds and a few others. 
 They are heavier than the egg breeds and do not mature quite so early. 
 They are excellent table fowls and good layers. They are good sitters 
 and good mothers and are the best for the farmer who raises only a 
 small flock. They lay light brown eggs. 
 
 3. The meat breeds. The Chochins, Brahmas and Langshans 
 are the best representatives of this class. They are the largest of the 
 different breeds and are considered poor layers. They are very docile, 
 easily tamed and stand close confinement. They are persistent sitters. 
 
 4. The fancy breeds. These include the Bantams, Games (except 
 Indian Games), Polish, Frizzles and Silkies. They are bred for show 
 purposes only and are unprofitable for the farmer or general poultry- 
 man. 
 
 Which of the egg breeds is the best for egg production f 
 
 i\Iore tlian ninety percent of the successful poultrymen breed the 
 "White Leghorn for egg production. 
 
 How many eggs per hen may be expected from the egg-producing 
 
 breeds? 
 
 This will, of course, depend upon the poultryman. The average 
 egg production of farm-yard fowls is about 70. No doubt there are 
 many flocks that do not average more than 20 eggs each. However, 
 when a flock is properly selected, housed and fed, it should average 
 at least 120 eggs for each hen. Many strains have been developed 
 that produce more than 200 eggs each, per year. The record of 308 
 eggs, is held by a hen owned by the Oregon Agricultural College. 
 
 Which is the best of the general-purpose breeds? 
 
 There is very little choice between them. Each has its advocates. 
 The Wyandottes are not quite so persistent sitters as the Plymouth 
 Rocks, which make them a favorite with some. 
 
 By ivhat method should chicks be hatched? 
 
 All successful poultrymen now use incubators. While they require 
 close attention, their mfiny advantages are obvious. By their use the 
 poultryman does not have to depend upon the caprices of the hen; 
 large numbers of chicks may be hatched at one time and perfect free- 
 dom from lice be attained: 
 
90 
 
 THE F A B M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What care should he given to the young chicks ivhen hatched? 
 
 During the first forty-eight hours of a chick's life it requires a 
 comfortable, even temperature, sleep and, toward the end of the 
 period, a drink of water with the chill removed. Care should be used 
 to see that the chicks do not get wet at the drinking fountain or drink 
 water that has become foul or stale. The floor of the brooder should 
 be covered with coarse, sharp sand, over which is scattered chaff or 
 straw litter. 
 
 How sJioidd the young chicks he fedf 
 
 If hatched under a hen in warm weather and the hen is allowed 
 to run, moistened corn meal may be fed with good results. The chicks 
 will obtain the meat balance from insects and bugs. They must always 
 have plenty of pure water, if the young chicks are hatched too early 
 to be placed on the ground, the problem of caring for them is a more 
 serious one. They must be supplied with a well balanced ration with 
 sufficient grit for digestive operations. The New York State College of 
 Agriculture, at Cornell University, gives the following rations and 
 directions for feeding chicks to maturity : 
 
 THE RATIONS 
 Mixture No. 1 
 8 lbs. rolled oats 
 8 lbs. bread crumbs 
 
 2 lbs. sifted beef scrap 
 
 (best grade) 
 
 1 lb. bone meal 
 
 Mixture No. 2 
 
 3 lbs. wheat (cracked) 
 
 2 lbs. cracked corn (fine) 
 1 lb. pinhead oatmeal 
 
 Mixture No. 3 
 
 3 lbs. wheat bran 
 3 lbs. corn meal 
 
 3 lbs. wheat middlings 
 3 lbs. beef scrap 
 
 (best grade) 
 
 1 lb. bone meal 
 Mixture No. 4 
 
 3 lbs. wheat (whole) 
 
 2 lbs. cracked corn 
 1 lb. hulled oats. 
 
 Mixture No. 5 
 
 3 lbs. wheat 
 
 3 lbs. cracked corn 
 
 THE METHOD. 
 1—5 Days 
 
 Mixture No. 1, moistened with sour 
 skimmed milk, fed five times a day: 
 Mixture No. 2 in shallow tray containing 
 a little of No. 3 (dry) always before 
 chicks. Shredded green food, and fine 
 grit and charcoal scattered over food. 
 5 Days — 2 Weeks 
 
 No. 2 in light litter twice a day. No. 3, 
 moistened with sour skimmed milk, fed 
 three times a day; No. 3 (dry) always 
 available. 
 2 — 4 Weeks 
 
 As above, except that the moist mash 
 is given twice a day. 
 
 4 — 6 Weeks {or until chicks are on 
 range ) 
 
 Reduce meals of moist mash to one a 
 day. Mixture No. 4 in litter twice a day ; 
 dry mash always available. 
 To Maturity: 
 
 No. 3 and No. 5 hopper fed. One meal 
 a day of moist mash if it is desired to 
 hasten development. 
 
VSEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 91 
 
 Further Directions. 
 
 Provide fine grit, charcoal, shell and bone from the start. 
 Give grass range or plenty of green food. 
 Have fresh, clean water always available. 
 Feed only sweet, wholesome foods. 
 Avoid damp and soiled litters. 
 Feed moist mash rather sparingly. 
 Keep chickens active. 
 Disinfect brooders frequently. 
 Test all beef scrap before feeding. 
 
 Cracker crumbs may be substituted for bread crumbs when 
 bread is not available. 
 
 THE CORNELL RATIONS FOR LAYING HENS. 
 
 The following whole grain mixture is fed morning and afternoon 
 in a straw litter : 
 
 By Weight By Measure 
 
 Winter Winter 
 
 60 lbs. wheat 32 qts. wheat 
 
 60 " corn 36 " corn 
 
 30 " oats 30 " oats 
 
 30 " buckwheat 20 " buckwheat 
 
 The following dry mash is fed in a hopper kept open during the 
 afternoon only : 
 
 By Weight 
 Winter and Summer 
 60 lbs. corn meal 
 
 60 
 30 
 10 
 10 
 50 
 1 
 
 wheat middlings 
 wheat bran 
 alfalfa meal 
 oil meal 
 beef scrap 
 salt 
 
 By 
 
 Measure 
 
 '^ inter 
 
 and Summer 
 
 57 qts 
 
 . corn meal 
 
 71 " 
 
 wheat middlings 
 
 57 " 
 
 wheat bran 
 
 20 " 
 
 alfalfa meal 
 
 8 " 
 
 oil meal 
 
 43 " 
 
 beef scrap 
 
 V- " 
 
 salt 
 
 The fowls should eat about one-half as much mash by weight as 
 whole grain. Regulate the proportion of grain and ground feed by 
 giving a light feeding of grain in the morning and about all they 
 will consume at the afternoon feeding (in time to find grain before 
 dark). In case of pullets or fowls in heavy laying, restrict both 
 night and morning feeding to induce heavy eating of dry mash, 
 especially in the case of hens. This ration should be supplemented 
 with beets, cabbage, sprouted oats, green clover or other succulent 
 food, unless running on grass covered range. Grit, cracked oyster 
 shells and charcoal should be accessible at all times. Green food 
 should not be fed in a frozen condition. All feed and litter used 
 
92 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 should be strictly sweet, clean and free from mustiness, mould or 
 decay. Serious losses frequently occur from disease, due to the 
 fowls taking into their bodies, through their intestinal tract or lungs, 
 the spores of the fungus causing moulds. — Dept. of Poultry Hus- 
 bandry, Cornell University. 
 
 Contest Rations. 
 
 At the ^^^ contest at Storrs, Conn., the following grain mixture 
 was fed : 
 
 Coarse wheat bran 200 pounds 
 
 Cornmeal 100 
 
 Gluten feed 100 
 
 Standard middlings 75 
 
 Fish scrap 30 
 
 Beef scrap 30 
 
 Low grade flour 25 
 
 There were little boxes holding grit, shells and charcoal which the 
 hens took as they liked. There was also provided a "scratch grain" 
 made up as follows : 
 
 Cracked corn BO pounds 
 
 Wheat 60 
 
 Heavy white oats 40 
 
 Barley 20 
 
 Kafir corn 10 
 
 Buckwheat 10 
 
 Coarse beef scrap 10 
 
 OTHER GOOD FEEDING MIXTURES. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Dry Mash. 
 
 C^orn meal 10 pounds 
 
 Wheat bran 10 " 
 
 Wheat middlings 10 " 
 
 Oil meal 5 " 
 
 Beef scrap 5 " 
 
 No. 2. 
 Young Chicks on the Range. 
 
 Boil rice until well done. When thoroughly cooked, mix it with 
 one-half the quantity of white corn-meal. Add cold water sufficient 
 to make a good soft dough. Grease a baking tin, spread this dough 
 thinly over the pan, and bake until well done. Soften with cold 
 water and feed the chicks on this mixture. It will cause them to 
 grow surprisingly fast and very strong. This food is said to be, also, 
 a good preventive of bowel troubles. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 93 
 
 No. 3. 
 Dry Feeding. 
 
 Cracked corn 
 
 Whole wheat 
 
 Oats 
 
 Scatter in tlie litter morning and a1 noon 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Cracked corn 
 
 Wheat 
 
 Oats 
 
 Use with this the following dry mash: 
 
 Corn meal 
 
 Wheat middlings 
 
 Wheat bran 
 
 Meat scraps 
 
 Oil meal 
 
 Alfalfa meal '. 
 
 Fine charcoal 
 
 Salt 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Cracked corn 
 
 Wheat 
 
 Oats 
 
 Use with this the following dry mash : 
 
 Corn meal 
 
 Wheat bran 
 
 Meat scraps 
 
 Wheat middlings 
 
 200 pounds 
 
 360 " 
 
 130 " 
 
 to indnee exercise. 
 
 15 pounds 
 10 " 
 
 5 '' 
 
 8 pounds 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1/2 OZ. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Cracked corn 
 
 Whole wheat 
 
 Buckwheat 
 
 Oats 
 
 Feed with this the following mash : 
 
 Bran 
 
 Corn meal 
 
 Middlings 
 
 Ground oats 
 
 Ground bone 
 
 4 pounds 
 2 " 
 
 3 pounds 
 2 '* 
 2 " 
 1 " 
 
 1 bushel 
 1 " 
 1 peck 
 1/2 bushel 
 
 200 pounds 
 100 " 
 100 " 
 
 50 " 
 
 10 " 
 
 Give directions for providing rape? 
 
 Fit the ground as if for Avheat, sow the rape broadcast and cover 
 lightly. In six weeks it will be ready for the hens. The writer 
 once divided his hen-yard into two parts, sowing both to rape. 
 While the hens were in one part, the other was closed. Rape will 
 come up again, if not eaten down too closely ; so by alternating the 
 two parts, he kept his hens supplied with green food all summer, 
 
94 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 although not on free range. As soon as the hens were turned into 
 the rape, they consumed only about one-half the usual amount of dry 
 rations and their egg production was increased. It seems that few 
 poultrymen realize the importance of Dwarf Essex rape as a green 
 ration for hens. 
 
 What conditions are essential for the winter production of eggsf 
 
 Warm houses, a balanced ration containing plenty of green 
 feed, meat scraps, grit and exercise. 
 
 Is artificial heating of the poultry house advisable f 
 
 No ; artificial heating will do more harm than good. See that 
 there are no cracks in the building; let the roof be low, just over 
 the roosts ; give the hens the right kind of feed at the right time ; 
 make them scratch for their living in the litter, and you will get 
 eggs. The exercise is absolutely essential. Hens that gulp down all 
 the food they can hold then stand around in groups do not lay. 
 
 How should eggs he sorted for the high-class market? 
 
 To command a fancy price, eggs must be strictly fresh, and uni- 
 form in size, color and shape. It costs no more to produce fancy 
 eggs than it does to produce common ones, and the express charges 
 on them are the same. Often, by a little sorting, five to ten cents 
 per dozen above the market price may be obtained. The New York 
 market prefers white eggs ; the Boston market, brown eggs. 
 
 How may good laying hens he obtained f 
 
 The only method of developing a flock of good layers is l)y care- 
 ful selection by the aid of trap nests. It has been learned that the 
 good layers are not any particular breed, but a carefully selected and 
 developed strain, of some breed. 
 
 What are some of the signs of good layers? 
 
 1. The best layers always moult last. If a hen has grown new 
 feathers by October 1, she is probably unprofitable. 
 
 2. The shanks of the best layers are usually colorless. 
 
 3. A smooth and velvety comb is the sign of a good layer. 
 
 What have the recent egg-laying contests taught poultrymen? 
 
 Charles L. Opperman has summed up, for The Country Gentle- 
 man, the following facts : 
 
 That the 200-egg hen is a very substantial present-day reality. 
 
 That it is possible for the domestic fowl to produce more than 
 250 eggs in 365 consecutive days. 
 
 That high fecundity is primarily a question of strain or family 
 rather than of breed. 
 
 That the selection and mating of highly prolific birds can result 
 in a marked improvement of the average egg production. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 95 
 
 That the continued selection of breedinac stock upon lines that 
 emphasize inherent tendency to ovarian activity is inclined to alter 
 the weight and conformation of certain pure breeds. 
 
 That the average weight of the eggs from both high and low 
 producing strains can be materially increased through selective 
 breeding. 
 
 That the trap nest or the single-bird pen is the only absolute 
 index to a bird's capacity for ^g^ production. 
 
 That when other things are equal the so-called mongrel may be 
 the equal, if not the superior, of many strains of pure-breds. 
 
 That the absence of male birds from the laying pens does not 
 affect the egg yield. 
 
 That the heavier breeds are the best winter layers. 
 
 That an abundant supply of plain, wholesome feed in conjunc- 
 tion with proper housing and management is conducive to increased 
 production. 
 
 That the cost of feeding does not in itself make for profit or loss 
 in the poultry business. 
 
 That the efficiency of different so-called standard rations cannot 
 be exactly determined from their use in connection with small ex- 
 perimental pens of birds of unknown performance. 
 
 Mention the principal essentials of a proper poultry house. 
 
 1. Build on soil where there is a natural drainage. Dampness 
 is fatal to chickens. 
 
 2. The house should be warm, well ventilated and free from 
 drafts. 
 
 3. Let the house face the south and have windows on the south 
 and east sides. Sunlight not only prevents the development of 
 germs, but it has a vitalizing affect upon the fowls. Too much of 
 it can not be had, especially in winter. 
 
 4. The roosts should all be on the same level. The natural 
 instinct in birds is to seek high places for safety. If there are no 
 high places, there will be no crowding or commotion at roosting 
 time. 
 
 5. Ventilation may be obtained by muslin windows on the 
 south side. They allow the air to enter, but prevent drafts. 
 
 6. Use dropping boards under the roosts. This will give more 
 floor space, help to keep the hens warmer in cold weather and allow 
 the droppings to be more easily removed. 
 
 7. A good plan is to build the nests under the front edge of the 
 dropping boards, with openings behind and a hinged door in front 
 that may be lowered when collecting the eggs. This will give the 
 hens the privacy which they like when laying. There should be a 
 platform back of the nests wide enough for the hens to walk on. 
 
 8. There should be provided a dust box, located where the sun 
 can reach it. Keep it well filled with fine road dust. 
 
96 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 9. Besides the dust box the essential "poultry furniture" con- 
 sists of drinking fountains, self-feeding hoppers for dry mash, feed 
 troughs and grit boxes. The drinking fountains will not be so 
 easily contaminated, if they are raised on a small platform a foot or 
 so above the floor. 
 
 The Missouri College of Agriculture, suggests the following for 
 "hen-happiness and a full egg basket:" 
 
 Allow each hen four square feet of floor space. 
 
 Provide one square foot of glass to every fifteen square feet of 
 floor space. 
 
 Locate the windows on the south side and place the tops not 
 quite half as high as the house is wide. 
 
 Ventilate by placing one square foot of muslin to every fifteen 
 square feet of floor space, or by making a slat front similar to the 
 cupolas in barns. Be sure the house is free from cracks and that 
 there are no openings for drafts on the back, ends and roof. 
 
 Build a floor eight inches higher than the surrounding ground. 
 Fill in four inches of coarse stone, then two inches of clay and then 
 two of dirt. This will make a dry floor. 
 
 Provide eight to ten inches of roosting space and one nest to 
 every six hens. 
 
 Cover the floor with a foot or eighteen inches of straw. Peed 
 the grain in the straw so as to encourage exercise. 
 
 What are the rules for taking care of the poultry house? 
 
 Keep it clean. This may be done by spraying, whitewashing 
 and providing fresh clean litter. See that there is absolutely no ac- 
 cumulation of dampness. The nests should ahvays be provided with 
 clean dry straw and be free from lice. Lice and mites are formid- 
 able enemies of the poultry business. Unless you are prepared to 
 keep them in check, you had better take up some other occupation. 
 
 What are the best methods for combating lice and mites? 
 
 The preparations given under "Useful Formulas" may be used 
 successfully. One of the most convenient commercial preparations 
 is ' ' Chemo, ' ' manufactured and sold by The Chemo Co., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 An excellent hand sprayer is furnished with the liquid. 
 
 POULTRY TROUBLES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 
 
 If all the required conditions regarding sanitation, pure food and 
 feeding are complied with, there will be few poultry troubles. The 
 poultryman should know that if his fowls begin to die off, something 
 is wrong, and he should locate that trouble and correct it. Usually it 
 is dampness, filth, poor ventilation, too crowded quarters, drafts, cold, 
 over feeding, or impure food. Following are some of the more common 
 troubles and suggested remedies : 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 97 
 
 BUMBLEFOOT. — The foot begins swelling at the toes and soon 
 becomes large and clumsy. It is the result of an infection through 
 some abrasion of the skin caused, perhaps, by jumping from a high 
 roost to a hard floor. 
 
 Remedy. — Soak the foot in warm water and clean thoroughly. 
 Remove any foreign substance; any soft place indicates puss, open 
 with a sharp knife. Bathe the foot in a solution of carbolic acid and 
 water, one teaspoonful to ten of water, and anoint with carbolized 
 vaseline. Often the trouble may be remedied by putting on a warm 
 linseed meal poultice, and after a half day lance where the skin seems 
 the thinnest. Keep the fowl upon soft litter. 
 
 LIMBERNECK.— The bird is unable to control the head which 
 droops to the ground. It is caused by eating putrid meat. 
 
 Remedy. — Remove the cause. Give 3 or 4 teaspoonfuls of castor 
 oil for a grown fowl. If not cured within 3 or 4 days it is not advisable 
 to keep it. 
 
 SCALY LEG. — This is caused by a parasite which lives under 
 the scales of the legs, causing them to assume a rough, lifeless appear- 
 ance. 
 
 Remedy. — Dip the legs in coal tar, kerosene oil, or rub them with 
 carbolized vaseline. 
 
 GAPES. — The fowls keep opening their bills as though trying to 
 swallow. It is caused by one or several forked red worms in the wind- 
 pipe. 
 
 Remedy. — Make a double loop of horse hair, put it into the wind- 
 pipe, turn it and pull the worms out. If this method can not be used, 
 remove all tiie barbules from a long feather, except those at the tip, 
 moisten with a mixture of oil of cloves and sweet oil, and insert gently 
 into the windpipe of the fowl. Twist the feather around several 
 times and draw it out. It will remove some of the worms and kill the 
 others. 
 
 WHITE DIARRHEA.— The droppings become white and 
 watery ; the fowl stands around in a listless attitude with head down 
 and eyes closed. 
 
 Remedy. — The writer has discovered no remedy for this disease. 
 A good preventive is venetion red dissolved in the drinking water, 1 
 heaping teaspoonful to each pint of water. 
 
 ROUP. — Symptoms are a discharge from the nasal openings, dul- 
 ness, prostration and fever. The discharge is at first thin and watery, 
 but in two or three days become thick and obstructs the breathing. 
 
 Remedy. — Remove the bird from the flock and place in a warm, 
 well ventilated room, free from drafts of air. Plunge the fowl's head, 
 for a second or two, into a solution of 1 ounce of boric acid to 1 quart 
 of water. Spraying the bird's head with kerosene oil is often very 
 effective. 
 
98 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 CROP BOUND.— The first symptom is a loss of appetite or an 
 effort to swallow without being able to do so. The crop is seen to be 
 large, firm and much distended. If no help is given, the conditions 
 become aggravated, the breathing difficult, and death may result. 
 
 Remedy. — Force the bird to swallow a teaspoonful of sweet oil, 
 then work the crop with the fingers, endeavoring to force some of the 
 food out through the gullet. If this can not be done, the crop may be 
 opened about an inch and the contents removed with a spoon or 
 button hook. After this is done, wash out the crop with clean, warm 
 water, sew up the openings, both in the crop and skin, using the 
 best silk, and making four separate stitches in each cut. 
 
 Feed on milk and raw eggs beaten together for a day or two, 
 and gradually change to soft mash. 
 
 FEATHER-EATING.— This is the result of a depraved appetite, 
 and may be caused by too close confinement, or lack of animal matter 
 in the food. 
 
 Remedy. — Give plenty of grit and animal food and a free run, if 
 possible. See that mites do not trouble them at night. 
 
 VERTIGO. — The bird throws its head upward, backward or to 
 one side. It may be caused by too much heat or direct sunlight. 
 
 Remedy. — Place the bird in a cool, shady place. Holding its head 
 under a stream of cold water will often effect a cure. 
 
 POULTBY DON'TS. 
 
 Don't begin on too large a scale; work up. 
 
 Don't tolerate lice, dampness or filth. 
 
 Don't feed young chicks until they are two days old. 
 
 Don't allow sick hens in the same pen with healthy ones. 
 
 Don't frighten the hens. 
 
 Don't neglect to provide meat and grit. 
 
 Don't allow the hens to eat rotten food of any kind. 
 
 Don 't neglect to supply pure water at all times. 
 
 Don't over feed. 
 
 Don't change rations abruptly. 
 
 Don't neglect to provide green food for winter. 
 
 Don't forget that it is the busy hens that produce the eggs. 
 
 Don't keep a lot of "boarders." 
 
 Don't feed mouldy grain of any kind. 
 
 Don't forget that sour milk is good for hens and chicks. 
 
 Don't neglect to put a little fresh lard, vaseline or sweet oil on 
 the heads, under the wings and around the vents of hen-hatched 
 chicks to kill and keep off the lice — don't use kerosene. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 99 
 
 DoF 't expect to get as many eggs in the winter as in the spring 
 or summer. 
 
 Don't forget that sulphur is a great germ killer. A spoonful 
 or two in the mash once a week will help to ward off disease. 
 
 Don't feed poultry tonics or other patent nostrums. 
 
 Don't keep too many fowls in too small a space. 
 
 Don't let your hens trespass upon your neighbors. 
 
 Don't expect all the eggs to be fertile, if the cockerel runs with 
 more than 15 hens. 
 
 Don't breed from immature pullets or from poor layers. 
 
 Don't forget that only careful selection and the weeding out 
 of the poor ones can produce a flock of good layers. 
 
 Don't keep a hen longer than three years; two years is the 
 limit with many. 
 
100 TEE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 PROFITABLE DAIRYING. 
 
 Into what two types may cattle he divided? 
 Into dairy cattle and beef cattle. 
 
 Mention the chief differences between dairy and beef cattle. 
 
 The following table gives the principal characteristics of each 
 type : 
 
 Dairy. Beef. 
 
 Form Wedge-shaped Rectangular. 
 
 Head Small, long, narrow. Larger and thicker. 
 
 Eyes Bright, prominent. Same. 
 
 Muzzle ]\Iouth and nostrils large. Same. 
 
 Neck Fine,medium length,thin Short, thick. 
 
 Shoulders Thin, lean, bony. Heavy, well-fleshed. 
 
 Back Crooked. Straight. 
 
 Flank High. Low. 
 
 Thighs Thin. Full, heavy. 
 
 Udder and milk veins. . . Large prominent. Small. 
 
 Skin and hair Soft and pliable. Same. 
 
 Mention the chief dairy breeds found in the United States, giving 
 
 principal characteristics and place of origin. 
 
 Holstein-Friesian — large, white, with black patches ; from Hol- 
 land. 
 
 Ayrshire — medium in size, varying in color from red and brown 
 to white, horns usually turning upward ; from the county of Ayr in 
 Scotland. 
 
 Brown Swiss — a shade from light to dark brown, a light tuft of 
 hair between the horns, a narrow line along the back, black nose, with 
 mouth surrounded by a meal-colored band; tongue and hoofs black, 
 horns with black tips ; from Switzerland. 
 
 Dutch Belted — about the same as Holstein-Friesian, except that a 
 broad, white belt surrounds the body ; from Holland. 
 
 Guernsey — a little larger than the Jerseys, hair yellow or reddish 
 fawn color, skin yellow, nose flesh-colored ; from the Island of Guern- 
 sey. 
 
 Jersey — small, gray or fawn colored, v/ith black noses; from the 
 Island of Jersey. 
 
 Mention the leading beef types found in the United States, with place 
 of origin. 
 
 Shorthorn, or Durham, from England. 
 
 Hereford, from England. 
 
 Polled (hornless) Hereford, developed in the United States. 
 
 Aberdeen- Angus, from Scotland. 
 
 Polled Durham, developed in the United States. 
 
 Galloways, from Scotland. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 101 
 
 Which is the most profitable beef breed for the American farmer? 
 
 Although opinions differ, the Herefords can be well recommended. 
 They are very hardy, endure extremes of temperature well, and their 
 young develop early. They are distinguished by their white faces. 
 
 What should be the attitude of the dairyman toward the beef breeds 
 
 of cattle ? 
 
 The dairyman who farms for profit should use care not to intro- 
 duce any strain of the beef types into his herd. 
 
 How may a dairy be obto/ined? 
 
 1. By purchasing the entire herd from some farmer who is selling 
 his farm or going into other business ; 2. By raising it yourself ; 3. By 
 buying the cows in small lots from different farmers; 4. Purchasing 
 from dealers who make a business of buying and selling. 
 
 What cautions should be observed in buying a dairy? 
 
 Nearly every farmer is trying to breed uji and develop his herrl. 
 He will sell his best cows only at an exorbitant figure. He is, however, 
 ready and anxious to dispose of his culls, the "boarders", very hard 
 milkers, jumpers, kickers, and others that are undesirable. The be- 
 ginner who procures a picked-up dairy will, usually, find himself in 
 posession of a herd that is not only unprofitable, but difficult to keep 
 within bounds. Only a person who has owned a dairy of this kind 
 can understand the annoyances, losses and discomfitures that it will 
 cause him. 
 
 What breed of cattle shall I buy? 
 
 This depends upon the individual tastes and the purpose for 
 which the cows are kept. If for shipping milk to the city, Holsteins 
 are the best ; if for cream, Guernseys or Jerseys are preferable. 
 
 // for cream, which would be better, Guernseys or Jcrseysf 
 
 Although opinions differ, the writer believes that, for cream, the 
 Guernsey would prove more satisfactory. They are hardier, more 
 tractable and give more milk, which averages almost as much butter 
 fat as that of the Jerseys. 
 
 A breed of cattle can not be judged by two or three individual 
 records. Now and then a Holstein will give richer milk than some 
 Jerseys, and often a Jersey will give more milk than some Holsteins. 
 
 COW DON'TS. 
 
 Don 't run your cows. 
 Don't neglect to dehorn the calves. 
 
 Don't keep cows that are unprofitable; use the scales and Babcock 
 test. 
 
 Don 't breed too young. 
 
 Don't expect much from a cross between a Holstein and a Jersey. 
 
102 TEE F A R M E RS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Don't try to raise all your feed, if your land is better adapted to 
 something else. 
 
 Don't keep beef breeds, if you are in the business for milk. 
 
 Don't forget that cows need a variety of feed. 
 
 Don't expect much milk from timothy hay alone. 
 
 Don't teach your cattle to become unruly by tempting them to 
 jump over poor fences. 
 
 Don't neglect your pasture. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 103 
 
 COW TROUBLES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 
 
 Choked — When a cow becomes choked the ol)struction usually 
 lodges either at the entrance of the wind-pipe or down in the gullet 
 (oesophagus), close to the stomach. The first is known as "high 
 choke" and the second "low choke." 
 
 In the first case the hand may he passed into the animal's throat 
 and the object causing the choke grasped and drawn out. If the 
 attendant is timid about passing his arm into the animal's mouth, 
 the operation may be made safer by having an assistant hold a clevis 
 in the mouth in order to keep the jaws apart. If it is a "low choke," 
 a piece of rubber hose from 6 to 10 feet in length may be passed 
 carefully down the animal's throat, taking care that it does not pass 
 toward "the lungs, and on reaching the obstruction carefully pressed 
 against it causing it to move into the stomach. If the hose is passed 
 toward the lungs, it can easily be determined by ])assing the opposite 
 end near the cheek and noting if air passes in and out as Ihe animal 
 breathes. 
 
 Bloating — If the cow is badly bloated, it is usually necessary to 
 tap the animal at once. A special instrument, known as a trocar, 
 is made for this purpose, but an ordinary pocket knife may be used. 
 The small blade may be thrust through the animal's side into the 
 paunch, and by turning the blade edge-wise to the cut the gas may be 
 allowed to escape. The point for making the puncture should be on 
 the left side, just back of the last rib, and from six to eight inches 
 from the line of the back bone. If the case is not so urgent, i-elief may 
 usually be obtained by placing a gag in the animal's itioutli. For 
 this purpose a round stick about two inches in diameter and a foot 
 long will be needed. A rough one can be used by first wrapping in 
 cloth. Press the stick back close to the corners of the mouth and hold 
 in place by a string tied to each end and passing over the animal's 
 head.. 
 
 Standing the animal with fore-quarters elevated is beneficial in 
 helping the gas to escape ; also bathing the flanks with warm water 
 will prove useful, by stimulating contraction of the stomach. 
 
 Hard Udders — Hard udders are due to an inflammation of the 
 gland, usually due to bacterial infection. Simple inflammation of the 
 udder, which comes on immediately after freshening, is usually due 
 to the active changes taking place in the gland at this period and is 
 less serious. Too rich a diet frequently hastens the trouble, especially 
 among heifers. In this condition, place the cow on a light diet and 
 give a drench of one pound of Epsom salts dissolved in water. A 
 drench is given by turning the liquid down the animal's throat fi-om 
 a long-necked bottle. ? 
 
 If the hard udder develops at a later period and is due to bacteria, 
 rub it thoroughly two or three times daily with a hot ointment of 
 
104 THE F AK 31 E R S' G V I D E BOOK 
 
 equal parts of lard and turpentine. Milk frequently. Keep the bowels 
 loose by an initial drench of one pound of Epsom salts dissolved in 
 two quarts of water, then-half-pound doses repeated daily. 
 
 Milk Fever — Procure a common bicycle pump and a 3-inch silver 
 or glass milking tube. Insert the tube in the teat and pump the 
 udder full of air. This is an almost sure cure. Care should be taken 
 that the pump and tube are perfectly clean and that only pure air 
 is pumped in. 
 
 Gargeted Milk — Gargeted milk is milk which has become changed 
 in the udder, the solids separating from the fluid portion. It is 
 generally caused by the presence of bacteria in the milk glands. 
 Treat same as for ropy milk (See under "Milk"), washing with 
 antiseptics daily and milking last to prevent spreading to others. 
 Fluid extract of Poke-root, one-half ounce in a pint of water, given 
 three times daily as a drench, or given in the feed is very beneticial. 
 Continue treatment for several days. 
 
 Cows Gnawing Bones or Eating Foreign Material — This condi- 
 tion is known as pica and is due to a depraved appetite on the part 
 of the animal. Alkaline ar salty tasting substances are especially 
 attractive to cows in this condition. The disease may last for months. 
 In some cases the animal becomes poor and even dies. The condition 
 is generally supposed to be due to the lack of some of the necessary 
 salts in the food or water. It may be due to imperfect digestion or 
 assimilation on the part of the animal. The treatment consists in 
 improving the digestion and the following prescription is recom- 
 mended : 
 
 Iron sulphate 2 ounces 
 
 Powdered nux vomica 4 ounces 
 
 Powdered gentian root 8 ounces 
 
 Common salt 8 ounces 
 
 Arsenous acid 1 dram 
 
 Give a tablespoonful of this mixture twice a day with the feed. 
 Continue the treatment until the animal is cured. 
 
 Abortion — This is a serious trouble and may be caused by injury 
 or infection. It is easily communicated to other animals of the herd. 
 Remove the cow from herd at once. Syringe the womb with 1 gallon 
 of warm water containing 1 ounce of creolin and continue daily until 
 no discharge is seen. Disinfect stables thoroughly. Do not let the 
 cow go to bull for at least two months after aborting. 
 
 Hoof Disease — Usually caused by filthy stables, or standing in 
 dirty water or mud. Shave off loose part and wash with warm water 
 and moisten twice daily with a solution of 1 ounce chloride of zinc 
 in 1 pint of soft water. . 
 
 Syore Teats — Rub on, after milking, carbolated vaseline, which 
 may be purchased at any drug store. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 105 
 
 Tuberculosis — Often introduced into the herd through milk froiri 
 the creamery. The syrnptoins are usually not noticeable in the early 
 stages of the disease. Later symptoms are loss of flesh, loss of appe- 
 tite, listlessness, a short, dry cough, diarrhoea, etc. Early stages of 
 the disease may be detected by the tuberculin test, which consists of 
 tirst taking the temperature for several days, then injecting tuber- 
 culin under the skin, and testing for a rise in temperature the follow- 
 ing day. If there is no rise in the temperature, the cow does not 
 have the disease. There is no cure, if present. 
 
106 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MILK, 
 
 Why is milk a good food for all young animals? 
 
 Milk contains, in the right proportions, all the nutrients needed to 
 nourish and build up the body. It is the most perfect food known. 
 
 What is the composition of milk? 
 
 Every 100 pounds of milk contains about the following constit- 
 uents : 
 
 Water 87 pounds 
 
 Fat 4 pounds 
 
 Milk sugar 5 pounds 
 
 Casein and albumen 3.3 pounds 
 
 Mineral matter 0.7 pounds 
 
 Total 100 pounds 
 
 What is meant hy rich milk? 
 
 By rich milk is meant a milk that contains a high percentage of 
 butter fat. The milk of the different breeds of cattle differ in this 
 respect. The New York Agricultural Experiment Station, after a 
 great many tests, gives the following averages : 
 
 Holstein-Friesian 3.4% 
 
 Ayrshire 3.6%. 
 
 Shorthorn 4.4% 
 
 Devons 4.6 /^^ 
 
 Guernsey 5.5% 
 
 Jersey 5.6%. 
 
 How does the richness of tlic milk from the same cow vary? 
 
 1. The milk is richer in fat just before the cow dries up. 
 
 2. The last of the milk drawn is richer than the first. 
 
 The feed has very little effect on the richness of the milk, its 
 percent of butter fat depending almost entirely upon the cow. 
 
 What are some of the characteristics of milk? 
 
 While milk is usually the most valuable product of the farm, it is, 
 also, of a very perishable nature. Bacteria of all kinds flourish in it 
 and it quickly absorbs bad odors. It is only the clean milk that will 
 retain its original character for any length of time. 
 
 Hoiv may the farmer produce clean milk? 
 
 By keeping the cow and her surroundings clean and wholesome. 
 The stable should be sealed with matched lumber and no cobwebs or 
 dust be allowed to accumulate. There should be plenty of window 
 space and good ventilation. The cows and milkers must both be 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 107 
 
 healthy, the cows clean, the milk utensils of the best quality, clean 
 and sterilized. The cows must have good feed and pure water. They 
 should always be milked before feeding. 
 
 What causes milk to sour? 
 
 Sour milk is caused by bacteria which develop in it an acid 
 (lactic) from the milk sugar. To prevent the development of bacteria, 
 the milk should be cooled at once and kept cool. 
 
 What is the source of bacteria in milk? 
 
 itacteria get into milk after it is drawn, milk from healthy 
 cows being free from them. All particles of dust and dirt carry with 
 them multitudes of bacteria which remain after the dirt particles have 
 been strained out. If black specks of dirt appear on the foam above 
 the milk, the conditions of cleanliness are not what thej should be. 
 
 Wliat is sterilized milk? 
 
 Sterilized milk is milk that is heated to the boiling point, or above 
 it under pressure. Milk is seldom sterilized as the process coagulates 
 the albumen and changes the flavor of the milk slightly. Pasteurized 
 milk is often spoken of as sterilized milk. 
 
 What is pasteurized milk? 
 
 Pasteurized milk is milk that has been heated to a temperature 
 high enough to kill disease-causing germs and then cooled to 50° F., or 
 lower. Usually the milk is heated to 345° and kept there for thirty 
 minutes. If heated above 145°, one minute may be subtracted from 
 the thirty minutes for every degree above 145° to which the milk is 
 heated. 
 
 What is certified milk ? 
 
 Certified milk is milk produced under legal contract between a 
 dairyman and a medical milk association. Certified milk undergoes no 
 process of purification, but is produced under the most sanitary con- 
 ditions possible. The stables are kept scrupulously clean, the milkers 
 wear clean, white milking suits, the cows are thoroughly brushed and 
 their udders and flanks wiped with a damp cloth, the milker's hands 
 must be absolutely clean and washed after each milking, in short, 
 every possible precaution is taken to prevent germs entering the milk. 
 
 Is pasteurized milk more desirable for general consumption than un- 
 pasteurized milk? 
 
 In general, it may be said that if milk is not suitable for food 
 without being pasteurized, it is not suitable at all. While pasteuriza- 
 tion undoubtedly destroys many disease-causing germs, it often covers 
 up worse conditions. The harmful products of filth accumulated by 
 careless milking still remain. Besides, the bacteria which cause the 
 natural souring of milk and tell us when it is unfit for infants and 
 invalids are destroyed. Many of the stomach disorders from which 
 infants suffer may be traced to pasteurized milk. 
 
108 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 What special care should he exercised in choosing milk utensils? 
 
 All milk utensils should be heavily tinned and as free from seams 
 as is possible to make them. All crevices and seams should be tlushed 
 full with solder. If pails of this kind can not be purchased, take 
 them to your local tinner and have him fix them for you. 
 
 What causes bad flavors in milkf 
 
 Bad flavors in milk may be caused by dirt, foul odors in the stable, 
 bacteria, or conditions found in the cow. If the cow has digestive 
 disorders of any sort her milk will be affected. If the cow is milked 
 within a few weeks of calving time, the milk will become bitter. Milk 
 that has a ' ' barny ' ' smell is unfit for human use. Certain feeds, such 
 as leeks, turnips, cabbage, rape and rye taint the milk more or less, 
 especially if fed just before milking time. 
 
 What is the cause and cure of ropy milk? 
 
 Ropy milk is caused by fungi which develop in the milk after it 
 is drawn. They are microscopic plants which grow into long filaments 
 so that the milk becomes stringy, or ropy. The source is probably due 
 to stagnant pools of water, and a cow becoming infected may spread 
 it to others. To get rid of it, remove the cause. See that the cows have 
 access to plenty of pure water. Determine which cows are affected 
 and milk them after the others. Cleanse the udders of all suspected 
 cows, once a day, with a one percent solution of carbolic acid or 
 creolin. The hands of the milkers should be washed in an anticeptic 
 solution after milking the affected animals. All milking utensils 
 should be thoroughly washed and scalded after using. With these 
 precautions the conditions usually do not last longer than ten days or 
 two weeks. 
 
 T)o thunder showers hasten the souring of milk? 
 
 Thunder showers cause milk to sour quickly, although the process 
 is not well understood. Bacteriologists have attempted to explain it 
 as a result of the warmer or more humid amosphere existing just 
 before a shower; but this is unsatisfactory, since milk in refrigerators 
 seems to be affected much the same way. 
 
 Are milking machines a success? 
 
 Milking machines have passed the stage of experiment and are 
 now considered necessities by many dairymen. With one of them one 
 man can easily do the work of four good milkers, and the milk will 
 be much cleaner. Care must be taken that the machine is properly 
 installed and that the engine runs at uniform speed. Cleanliness here, 
 as with all other milk-handling devices, is absolutely essential to 
 success. 
 
 Will it pay a farmer to own a cream separator? 
 
 If a farmer owns at least ten cows, a separator will be profitable. 
 If however, a separator is used, a milk house will be almost a necessity. 
 The machine must have a solid, unyielding, absolutely level founda- 
 
Vt^EFlJL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMIXa 109 
 
 lion. If a large amount of milk is to lie separated, a small engine will 
 be needed to turn the machine and this will necessitate a speed regu- 
 lator. Water will be needed to cool the cream. All these matters 
 should be taken into consideration before buying a machine. 
 
 What are the most reliable makes of cream separators? 
 
 Each manufacturer will swear that his machine is the best and 
 then proceed to prove it. The writer does not advise purchasing the 
 cheap machines sent out by the mail order houses. The Sharpless, 
 De Laval and United States are all good. Send to each firm for their 
 literature before you buy. If possible have one or more set up for a 
 trial test. You will find that some are more easily cleaned than others, 
 which may be an important consideration. 
 
 Hoiv much milk will a cow produce in a ijearf 
 
 A good dairy cow should produce 5,000 pounds of milk per year. 
 If she produces less than 3,000 pounds, she is a "boarder" and un- 
 profitable. Get rid of her. A (]uart of milk weighs 2.15 pounds. 
 
 What are the general directions for home butter making? 
 
 1. Cool the cream from the separator as soon as possible to 55° F. 
 or lower. 
 
 2. Never mix warm <,'reain with coo! cream. 
 
 3. ]\Tix all cream to be churned in one vat or can, at least 
 eighteen iiuurs ueioie cimriniig. 
 
 4. Ripen at a temperature of 70° to 75° F. for from six to eight 
 hours, stirring it frequently during this period. 
 
 5. Cool cream to churning temperature as soon as ripe. 
 
 G. Let the cream stand eight hours or more (over night) at the 
 churning temperature. 
 
 7. The temperature of churning should be such as to make the 
 butter come in from thirty-five to forty minutes, usually 55° to 60° F. 
 
 8. If it is desired to use artificial coloring, it should be added to 
 the cream just before churning. 
 
 9. Stop churning when the granules are about the size of peas, 
 varying to wheat, and draw off the buttermilk. 
 
 10. Wash the butter with cold water twice, by pouring it on 
 and draining it off. Use as much cold water each time as half the 
 amount of the buttermilk. 
 
 11. Add the salt while the butter is in granular form, using 
 about one to one and one-half ounces for each pound of butter, accord- 
 ing to the demands of the market. 
 
 12. Work the butter just enough to distribute the salt evenly. 
 
 13. If the butter is to go on the market, it should be put in neat, 
 attractive packages. 
 
110 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MELK DON'TS. 
 
 Don 't put milk in a vessel that has not previously been scalded. 
 
 Don't try to sell impure milk. 
 
 Don't tolerate wet milkers. 
 
 Don't neglect to milk the cows clean. 
 
 Don 't milk with dirty hands. 
 
 Don 't set the milk down in the stable. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 111 
 
 CALVES. 
 
 Is it profitahle for the farmer to raise his own dairy? 
 
 The advantages are all with the farmer. It is only the man with 
 considerable capital who can go out and buy the class of cows that a 
 dairyman can afford to keep. Besides, the high-priced cows are often 
 disappointments, many not being as represented and some even prov- 
 ing to be unprofitable. With pure bred sires, the descendants of well- 
 known milking families for several generations, the farmer can start 
 with a scrub herd and in a few years build up a splendid dairy. 
 The cost will be much less. In fact, the cows will pay their way and 
 reward the farmer for his efforts. 
 
 What rules should govern the farmer in selecting the calves to he 
 
 raised? 
 
 Raise calves from only the good cows. The Babcock test and the 
 scales, applied to each individual cow, are the only means by which her 
 real merit can be known. The intelligent farmer will not waste his 
 time and money raising calves from cows of unknown merit. If both 
 the sire and mother are right, there need be little doubt as to the value 
 of the offspring. 
 
 What care should he taken of the young calf? 
 
 Always let it suck the first milk of the mother. This contains a 
 special physicing property that the young calf needs. After three days 
 it may be taught to drink. The calf should always be kept in a waim, 
 dry place with plenty of fresh air and sunlight. It will not grow if 
 compelled to sleep on a cold, damp bed. 
 
 How may a calf he taught to drink f 
 
 With the palm upward insert two fingers into the calf's mouth so 
 that it can suck in the air between them. Lower your hand into the 
 pail and when the calf is sucking in the milk gently withdraw the 
 fingers. This process repeated two or three times will usually be suf- 
 ficient. Often the calf's head will have to be pushed downward, as it 
 naturall.y looks upward for its nourishment. 
 
 Give directions for feeding the young calf. 
 
 Give the calf new milk three times a day for the first fourteen 
 days. From the time the calf is ten days old the feed may be slightly 
 increased ; but it should never be fed so much that it will not want 
 more. More trouble and loss result from overfeeding than from any 
 other cause. 
 
 Hoiv may a calf he raised witJiout milk? 
 
 The young calf should have fresh milk for at least two weeks. 
 After this time a porridge composed of one part oil meal, one part 
 white middlings and one part wheat bran may be gradually substitu- 
 ted. Begin by boiling two spoonfuls in a pint of water and feed with 
 
1 12 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 milk. The araoimt of the porridge may be gradually increased and 
 the milk diminished until only the porridge is used. Let the mixture 
 come to a boil while it is being stirred, then let cool to milk warm. 
 Feed three times a day, alwa.ys just enough so that the calf will want 
 a little more. 
 
 What changes may he made in the feed of the calf as it grdivs older? 
 If the milk is being used for butter or sent to a creamery, the 
 calf, when two weeks old, may be gradually started on the fresh 
 separated milk. The change may be started when the calf is seven or 
 eight days old and changed so gradually that it will be on a complete 
 ration of separated milk when it is fourteen days old. At the time the 
 change is being made stock molasses should be fed at the rate of one 
 tablespoonful to a gallon of milk. If too much is fed, it will have a bad 
 effect upon the bowels of the calf. The calf should get a meal ration 
 as soon as it will begin to eat it, by feeding it dry in the bucket. The 
 best meal ration for young calves is white shorts and oil meal, equal 
 parts. 
 
 How should tlie calf he fed. during the summer? 
 
 Besides the ration as above given, the calf should get some grass 
 or alfalfa hay. A good pasture is almost indispensable. The pasture 
 should have plenty of shade and a covered shelter with dry bedding 
 where the calf can sleep nights and get shelter from storms. All these 
 details must be looked after, if you would be a suceesful dairyman. 
 
 What causes diarrhea ("scoivers") in calves? 
 
 Often it is caused by using sour, filthy feeding utensils. It may 
 also be caused by over feeding, a too abrupt change in feed, or wet, 
 filthy surroundings. Remove the cause. 
 
 Hoiv may diarrhea in calves he cured? 
 
 The following remedy is recommended by the Department of 
 Agriculture in their treaties on the diseases of cattle in their revised 
 edition, 1904: 
 
 "Treatment will vary according to the nature and stage of the 
 disease. When the disease is not wide-spread, but isolated cases only 
 occur, it may be assumed to be a simple diarrhea and is easily dealt 
 with. The first object is to remove irritant matter from stomach 
 and bowels, and for this one or two ounces of castor oil may be given, 
 according to the size of the calf. Reduce the milk by one-half or two- 
 thirds. If the stools smell particularly sour, it may be replaced by 
 one ounce calcined magnesia, and in any case a tablespoonful or two of 
 lime-water must be given with each meal. Great harm is often done 
 by giving opium and astringents at the outset. These merely serve to 
 bind up the bowels and retain the irritant source of the trouble ; liter- 
 ally 'to shut up the wolf in the sheepfold.' When the offending agents 
 have been expelled in this way, carminatives and demulcent agents may 
 be given — 1 dram anise water, 1 dram nitrate of bismuth, and 1 dram 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 11.3 
 
 gum arable, three times a day. Under such a course, the consistency 
 of the stools shoukl increase until in a day or two they become 
 natural." 
 
 A teaspoonful of dried blood, fed with the milk for a day or two, 
 is a much simpler remedy and often proves effective. 
 
 7.9 sour railk or whey harmful for calves? 
 
 Calves mfiy be fed either sour milk or whey, that has not stood too 
 long. Care should be taken that any animal's food ration be changed 
 gradually' 
 
 May calves he fed hay? If so, when? 
 
 Most calves will begin to eat a little hay when they are six weeks 
 old, after which a little fine clover hay or alfalfa may be fed to them 
 to good advantage. It will often pay to buy alfalfa hay for this pur- 
 pose. 
 
 How may calves he vealed without whole milk? 
 
 After about four days on the whole milk, sweet skimmed milk 
 may be given. To this should be added gradually fine corn meal, or 
 oil meal jelly. To make the jelly, boil oil meal in water until it forms 
 a tliick paste. If kept cool, it will keep until used up. Begin by using 
 a half-teacupful in the railk and increase slowly until a pint is used in 
 the milk twice a day. 
 
 Does the calf neml water? 
 
 The calf will drink water at an early age, if it has an opportunity, 
 since its skim milk ration does not give it all the moisture that it needs. 
 This need of the calf for water is not generally understood. At feed- 
 ing time the animal is not only hungry but very thirsty ; and, as a re- 
 sult, gorges itself with milk or drinks too rapidly when it has a chance, 
 often causing digestive troubles. Supply it with water at all times. 
 A pasture containing running water is ideal for the calf. Its milk is 
 its food ; water is its drink. 
 
 How may the horns he prevented from growing? 
 
 Press the hair back and rub the button thoroughly, as soon as it 
 can be felt, with the moistened end of a stick of caustic potash, cov- 
 ering a spot about as large as a silver quarter. One thorough treat- 
 ment will usually be sufficient. 
 
 CALF DON'TS. 
 
 Don't overfeed. 
 
 Don 't feed a young calf cold milk. 
 
 Don't compel the calf to sleep on a wet bed. 
 
 Don't change feed abruptly. 
 
 Don't let the children worry the calves. 
 
114 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Don 't put the calves in a pasture so small that it will not furnish 
 enough grass. As the calves learn to eat grass, the less other feed they 
 will need. 
 
 Don't use fences that the calves can jump over, unless you want 
 unruly cows. 
 
 Don't put the calves to pasture too early in the spring or keep 
 them out too late in the fall. 
 
 Don 't let the flies keep the calves from growing. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 115 
 
 FEEDING DAIRY COWS. 
 
 What is the function of food? 
 
 Food furnishes material for the development and growth of all 
 the tissues; supplies heat, force and energy; furnishes material to re- 
 pair waste and maintain life, and for special products, such as milk, 
 eggs, wool, etc. 
 
 How may foods be classified f 
 
 Foods may be classified as protein, carbohydrates, fats and 
 mineral matter. 
 
 Wliat are protein foods? 
 
 Protein foods are foods containing nitrogen. Protein is neces- 
 sary to animal life, building up the muscles and tissues of the body 
 and at times furnishing heat and energy as well as forming fat. 
 
 What are carbohydrates? 
 
 Carbohydrates are compounds of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, 
 the last two in the proportion found in water. The principal carbohy- 
 drates are the sugars, cellulose, starches and gums. They are essential 
 to furnish energy and produce fat. The main source of carbohydrates 
 is corn, though it is supplied in oats, barley, bran, middlings and grass 
 forage, as rape, rye and oats, and to some extent in the protein foods. 
 
 What mineral matter is used for food? 
 
 Some of the minerals used as food are calcium, phosphorus, sod- 
 ium, potassium, iron, etc. They are found, in combination with other 
 substances, in nearly all food stuffs and some dissolved in water. 
 
 What different food substances does stock need? 
 
 Every living creature needs some of each class of foods. The 
 minerals are so plentiful that no account need be taken of them. To 
 supply a correct nutritive ratio for protein and carbohydrates plus the 
 fats, is a problem for the modern farmer and stockman to solve. 
 
 What is meant by a ''nutritive ratio?" 
 
 By a "nutritive ratio" is meant the relation between the digestible 
 protein and the digestable carbohydrates and fat in any food stuff. 
 For example, 100 pounds of timothy hay contains 2.8 pounds of diges- 
 tible protein and an equivalent of 46.6 pounds of carbohydrates in- 
 cluding the fat equivalent. Dividing both the protein and the car- 
 bohydrate equivalent by 2.8, we get the quotients, 1 and 16.6; 
 therefore the "nutritive ratio" of timothy hay is 1; 16.6, too broad 
 for the best purposes, as will presently be learned. 
 
 What is a feeding standard? 
 
 A feeding standard is a statement of the amount of dry matter, 
 protein, carbohydrates and fats needed daily for an animal weighing 
 
116 THE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 1000 pounds. For example, it has been decided that a proper standard 
 for a 1000-poimd cow giving 22 pounds of milk per day is an amount 
 of feed equal to 29 pounds of dry matter, containing 2.5 pounds of 
 protein, equal to 14.1 pounds of carbohydrates and fats combined. 
 
 What is a halanced ration? 
 
 A balanced ration is one in which the bulk and the digestible pro- 
 tein and carbohydrates are in that proportion which will most econom- 
 ically produce the particular results desired in feeding. The proper 
 ratio for dairy cattle is about 1 :6. 
 
 What is meant by "narrow" and "wide" rations? 
 
 According to general usage, a ratio of protein to carbohydrates 
 below 1 : 5.5 is "narrow," while one above 1 : 8 is "wide." 
 
 What are the advantages of balanced rations? 
 
 Balanced rations are apt to offer the best results, because the 
 animal thus secures nutriments in much the same proportion that she 
 utilizes them. There is no material excess to induce disarrangement 
 of the digestive system, or to be wasted ; and there is less likelihood of 
 unsupplied deficiencies. 
 
 Are balanced rations absolutely necessary? 
 
 Perfectly balanced rations are not practical or possible. All rny 
 dairyman can do is to use the approximation which produces the best 
 results. 
 
 How can a dairyman balance his own rations? 
 
 The dairyman can use Table IX as a guide in selecting a balanced 
 ration for his stock. For example, — 
 
 Looking down the list, he sees at once that it would be folly to 
 attempt to winter his cattle on oat straw, because the ratio, 1 : 32, is 
 far too broad. Since the table gives him the protein and carbohydrate 
 equivalent in 100 pounds of any feed, he can find the amount in smaller 
 portions and balance his rations as follows : 
 
 Protein Carbohydrate equivalent 
 
 20 lbs. of timothy contains 56 9.32 
 
 4 lbs. cottonseed meal contains. .1.488 1.776 
 
 2.048)2.048 11.096 
 
 Gives a ratio of 1 to 5.4 
 
 He sees that this ratio is a little too narrow, so tries 3 pounds of 
 the meal, which comes nearer the required ratio, and is, also, somewhat 
 cheaper. 
 
 The New York State College of Agriculture gives the following 
 plan for balancing rations in New York State. It is entitled : 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 117 
 
 A READY METHOD FOR BALANCING A RATION FOR 
 DAIRY COWS." 
 
 LOW PROTEIN 
 GROUP. 
 
 Less than 12% total pro- 
 tein. 
 
 Com 10.3 
 
 Oats 11.4 
 
 Wheat 11.9 
 
 Rye 11.3 
 
 Barley 12.0 
 
 Buckwheat 10.8 
 
 Hominy Chop 10.5 
 
 Dried beet pulp .... 8.1 
 Corn and cob meal .. 8.5 
 ' ' PTeavy ' ' Foods Are 
 
 TABLE. 
 
 MEDIUM PROTEIN. 
 GROUP. 
 
 12% to 2.5% total pro- 
 tein. 
 
 Wheat bran 15.4 
 
 Mixed wheat ff-ed . .16..3 
 Standard wheat mid- 
 dlings 16.9 
 
 Rour Wheat Mid- 
 dlings 19.2 
 
 Cotton Seed feed... 20.0 
 Buckwheat feed 
 
 (shuck in) ,18.3 
 
 Pea Meal 20.2 
 
 Cull Beans 21.6 
 
 In DARK FACED Type, 
 
 Ordinary Type. 
 
 HIGH PROTEIN 
 GROUP. 
 
 More than 25% total 
 protein. 
 
 Malt stir nits 26.3 
 
 Linseed Oil Meal . . . ',3.9 
 Cotton Seed Meal . .45.3 
 Gluten Feed 25.0 
 
 Brewers' dried 
 grains 25.0 
 
 Distillers' dried 
 grains (corn) 31.2 
 
 Buckwheat m i d d s 
 (free from shuck) 26.7 
 
 ''Light" Foods In 
 
 HOW TO USE THE TABLE. 
 
 The ordinary coarse foods in tiie State of New York are mixed 
 hay, cora silage and corn stalks or fodder. These are always similar 
 in composition as far as the balance between protein and carbohydrates 
 is concerned. 
 
 The ration then is usually balanced on the grain tood. 
 
 Ordinary grain foods may be conveniently divided into three 
 groups: Low protein (less than 12%), Medium protein (12% to 25%) 
 and High protein (over 25% ) . 
 
 For the sake of variety it is advisable to use three grain foods. 
 
 If one low protein food, one medium protein food and one high 
 protein food are mixed together, equal parts by weight, the mixture 
 will make a well balanced ration to be used with the ordinary mixed 
 hay, silage or com fodder. 
 
 If clover or alfalfa hay is largely used, less high protein food is 
 necessary. 
 
 In amount, in addition to what hay and silage she will readily 
 eat, a cow, in full milk, giving 4% milk, or better, should have 1 pound 
 of grain to 3 or 31/2 pounds of milk daily ; a cow giving milk with less 
 than 4% of fat should have 1 pound of grain to SM.. or 4 pounds of 
 milk. An ideal grain ration should weigh about 1 pound to the quart. 
 To secure this, the mixture should contain at least one "light" food. 
 
 What are concentrates? 
 
 Concentrates are grains and meals. 
 
118 THE F ARM E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Will stock do well on concentrates alone f 
 
 All stock requires coarse feed. A German investigator, Emil V. 
 "Wolff, decided, about the middle of the last century, that dairy cows 
 should have 24.5 pounds of dry matter daily and that this should con- 
 tain 2.5 pounds of digestible protein, 12.5 pounds of digestible car- 
 bohydrates and .4 pounds of digestible fat, — nutritive ratio, 1 :5.4. 
 This is known as the "Wolff Standard." More recent investigators 
 have changed it somewhat and widened the ratio, especially for milk 
 production. The farmer need not concern himself greatly about the 
 exact ratio, provided he supplies food that contains the required 
 nutrients. To be exact, a table would have to be made for each animal ; 
 for, while one cow seems to thrive best on a certain amount of protein, 
 others will require more or less for the same result. The successful 
 dairyman studies the characteristics and needs of each animal. 
 
 What are some of the important principles that should govern the 
 feeding of dairy cows? 
 
 1. The average cow requires about 24 pounds of digestible dry 
 matter daily. 
 
 2. Roughly, two-thirds of this digestible matter should be fur- 
 nished in the form of roughage and one third in concentrates. 
 
 3. Not less than two-thirds of the total dry matter should be 
 digestible. 
 
 4. Variety in feeds is required, if cows are to yield the best 
 results. 
 
 5. The succulence which in summer is found in pasture grass and 
 which is so desirable a feature in a dairy ration, may be furnished 
 during other seasons by silage or roots. 
 
 6. Feed all the roughage a cow will clean up. 
 
 7. Feed 1 pound of grain to every three or four pounds of milk 
 yielded daily, varying according to the roughage supplied and the per 
 cent of butter fat in the milk. The richer the milk, the more meal is 
 required. 
 
 8. A good arrangement for feeding is to feed one-half of the 
 grain and silage in the morning and one-half at night after milking, 
 and to feed hay after the other feeds are consumed. A little hay may 
 be fed at noon, if desired. 
 
 9. Vary the amount of feed according to the size and production 
 of the individual cow. 
 
 10. Salt regularly ; three-fourths of an ounce daily is sufficient. 
 
 11. Water regularly, taking the chill off the water in the winter. 
 
 12. Change from barn feed to pasture feed gradually in the 
 spring. 
 
 13. Feed grain in summer to high producing cows, varying the 
 amount fed according to pasture supplies. 
 
 14. Use soiling crops or silage to supplement short pastures. 
 
 15. Keep dry cows in good flesh. 
 
 16. Give laxative foods to a cow for a week previous to her fresh- 
 ening. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 119 
 
 17. Work up gradually to the full grain ration after freshening, 
 taking two or three weeks to do this. 
 
 18. Reduce the grain ration slowly as production decreases. 
 
 19. Watch your cows and feed according to individual needs. 
 
 20. Let all feed be fresh and clean. 
 
 21. At the present price (1915) cottonseed meal is one of the 
 cheapest protein feeds. 
 
 What are the principal ivinter food stuffs for cattle? 
 
 Timothy, red clover, alfalfa, corn fodder and stover, orchard grass, 
 red top, alsike clover, mixed grasses and clover, oat straw, bean straw 
 and millet. Study the feeding table to determine the relative values 
 of these different rations. 
 
 What are the characteristics of the more common feeds? 
 
 Bulletin No. 114, Pennsylvania Station, gives the following charac- 
 teristics under the heading, "Selecting Feeds" : 
 
 ALFALFA MEAL, more convenient to handle than hay, much 
 easier to adulterate, price usually excessive, rich in protein. 
 
 BEET PULP, soaked up, a good substitute for silage or roots but 
 higher in price. ' 
 
 BRAN, (wheat) light, bulky, appetizing, high in mineral matter, 
 high in crude fiber. Relatively expensive at present prices. 
 
 BREWERS' GRAINS, rich in protein, very variable in composi- 
 tion, bulky, must be fed with other feeds. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT, low in protein — usually pays to sell it and buy 
 back the middlings. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT IMIDDLINGS, heavy, usually economical source 
 of protein, tend to make soft, oily butter. 
 
 BULKY FEED, bran, gluten feed, ajax flakes, distillers' grains, 
 corn and cob meal. 
 
 CONSTIPATING, cottonseed meal, corn fodder and hay. 
 
 CORN, easily digested, usually cheapest source of energy. Pays 
 to grind. 
 
 CORN AND COB MEAL, bulky, considerable crude fiber, nearly 
 equal to corn meal in ration because of bulky nature. Ground fine. 
 
 COTTONSEED MEAL, high in protein, heavy, should be fed 
 with something else, makes for hard butter, relatively cheap source of 
 protein, ordinarily should not constiute more than one-third of the 
 mixture. 
 
 DISTILLERS' DRIED GRAINS, mostly corn, light, bulky, high 
 in protein, not readilv eaten alone. 
 
 DISTILLERS' "dried GRAINS, mostly rye. similar in charac- 
 ter to the corn grains, lower in digestible protein. 
 
 GLUTEN FEED, rich in protein, should be fed with other grains, 
 usually a desirable and economical source of protein. 
 
 HOMINY CHOP, usually economical source of energy, low in 
 protein, palatable, heavy. Good substitute for corn meal if needed. 
 
 LAXATIVE, oil meal, bran slightly, silage, roots. 
 
120 THE F A B M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MOLASSES FEEDS, usually high in waste materials and too 
 high in price for their feed value. 
 
 NOT PALATABLE, gluten feed, brewers' and distillers' grains, 
 cottonseed meal. 
 
 OATS, good feed, rich in mineral matter, high in crude fiber, not 
 high enough in protein to use for balancing a ration, too expensive 
 to feed at the past year's prices, good for calves, especially so if ground 
 and hulls sifted out. 
 
 PROPRIETARY FEEDS, usually variable in composition, fre- 
 quently contain weed seed and useless waste material, high in fiber and 
 relatively expensive for the amount of energy furnished, save labor of 
 mixing. 
 
 ROOTS, desirable substitute for silage, usually cost more to grow. 
 
 SILAGE, succulent, appetizing, economical, low in protein, should 
 be fed after milking, a little hay or dry fodder should always be fed 
 with it. One of the best farm grown feeds for milk products. 
 
 How has the up-to-date farmer solved the problem of economical 
 
 feeding f 
 
 By the use of the modern silo. A few acres of Indian corn prop- 
 erly cared for and placed in the silo at the proper time and in the 
 proper way will furnish as much feed as several times the acreage of 
 timothy. It will, also, be more palatable to the cattle and better 
 relished. The time has come when the American farmer can not 
 afford to raise timothy, except for horse feed. He must produce his 
 fodder on a smaller acreage, using the extra to raise his grain and 
 for crops to sell. The practice of cutting 50 to 70 acres of timothy, 
 as is the custom on most of the dairy farms of Western New York 
 and then buying grain is suicidal as far as profit is concerned. 
 
 SILOS AND SILAGE. 
 
 What principles shoidd he observed in the construction of a silo? 
 
 Build a good one, or none at all. The cylindrical form is the 
 best. It should be air tight and height in proportion to its diameter, 
 in order to get the proper pressure. The Modern Silage Methods gives 
 the following table of capacities of different silos; also the required 
 acreage for different numl)ers of cattle fed 40 pounds daily for six 
 
 months. 
 
 Capacity 
 Tons 
 
 26 
 
 38 
 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 61 
 
 67 
 
 83 
 
 93 
 
 97 
 119 
 151 
 189 
 
 liameter 
 
 Depth 
 
 Feet 
 
 Feet 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 24 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 22 
 
 14 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 14 
 
 30 
 
 16 
 
 26 
 
 16 
 
 30 
 
 18 
 
 50 
 
 18 
 
 36 
 
 Atos of cor;! 
 
 N'n. of cows 
 
 Acres 
 
 Cows 
 
 2.0 
 
 8 
 
 3.0 
 
 11 
 
 3.4 
 
 13 
 
 4.0 
 
 15 
 
 4.5 
 
 17 
 
 4.7 
 
 19 
 
 5.5 
 
 22 
 
 6.0 
 
 23 
 
 7.0 
 
 26 
 
 8.0 
 
 29 
 
 10.0 
 
 37 
 
 12.3 
 
 45 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 121 
 
 What is silage f 
 
 Silage, also called ensilage, is the green food preserved in a silo. 
 
 What crops may he used for silage f 
 
 Cowpeas, soy-beans, clover, sorghum, peas, oats, millet, etc., have 
 been used for silage, but Indian corn is preeminently the best crop for 
 the New England and Western states. 
 
 When should corn raised for silage be cutf 
 
 Cut the corn when the ears are beginning to glaze. If too green, 
 the silage is apt to sour and affect the milk ; if too mature, it is apt to 
 mould and become unfit for fodder. 
 
 Hoiv should corn be put info the silof 
 
 It should be cut with a cutter into pieces about an inch long and 
 carried into the silo with a blower. It should be well tread down as 
 it comes in, especially around the edges. 
 
 Why does not the feed put into the silo spoil? 
 
 At first the mass heats and carbonic acid gas is formed. The heat 
 partially cooks the food and all bacteria are destroyed. The oxygen 
 being exhausted, tke food is preserved the same as canned corn or 
 fruits which the housewife puts up for winter use. 
 
 How shotdd silage he fedf 
 
 Feed about two bushels per day, one in the morning and the other 
 at night. Any other fodder that the farmer may have can be fed at 
 noon, although the most satisfactory results are obtained by feeding 
 alfalfa or some meal rich in protein to balance the somewhat wide ratio 
 in the silage. 
 
 Is silage good for horses ? 
 
 Good silage is all right for horses ; but poor silage, especially that 
 which shows blue mould, is injurious and should never be used. As a 
 rule, it is safer to feed the horses alfalfa or timothy and grain. 
 
 What is meant by * ^ soiling f" 
 
 By "soiling" is meant bringing fodder fresh from the fields and 
 feeding it to cattle confined in inclosures. Soiling is growing more 
 popular each year and wonderful results from it have been reported. 
 The objection to it is the labor involved. 
 
 What are the best soiling crops? 
 
 Winter rye (for early soiling), Indian corn, clover, alfalfa, oats 
 and peas mixed. 
 
 Which will produce better results, silage or soiling? 
 
 In all recorded tests soiling has produced the greater milk flow. 
 
122 THE F A B M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Summarize the Advantages of the Silo to the Farmer. 
 
 Prof. J. H. Skinner, of Purdue University, has formulated the 
 following ten reasons why every farmer should have a silo : 
 
 1. The silo preserves the palatability and succulence of the 
 green corn plant for winter feeding. 
 
 2. It helps to make use of the entire corn plant. 
 
 3. The silo increases the live stock capacity of the farm. 
 
 4. Silage is a good summer feed when pastures are short. 
 
 5. Because of the small amount of ground space required by the 
 silo, it is an economical means of storing forage. 
 
 6. The silo prevents waste of corn stalks, leaves and husks, 
 which contain about two-fifths of the feeding value of the corn plant. 
 
 7. The silo located near the feed manger is an assurance of hav- 
 ing feed near at hand in stormy as well as fair weather. 
 
 8. The silo assists in reducing the cost of grains in fattening 
 cattle and sheep. 
 
 9. Silage greatly increases the milk flow during the winter sea- 
 son and decreases the cost of production. 
 
 10. There are no stalks to bother in the manure when corn is 
 put into silo. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOE FARMING 128 
 
 GRAIN MIXTURES FOR MILK PRODUCTION. 
 
 The following grain mixtures for milk production have been select- 
 ed from those used by successful dairymen and those approved by ex- 
 periment stations or suggested by reliable farm papers. No. 5 is the 
 one used by Dr. H. W. Wiley at his famous farm, at Bluemont, Va. 
 
 It is impossible to suggest mixtures that will fit all conditions, as 
 much will necessarily depend upon what the farmer raises, what his 
 roughage is, or what he can buy the cheapest. The mixtures given 
 below are to supplement corn silage and roughage, unless otherwise 
 stated. 
 
 Feed 1 pound of the grain mixture to every 31/. or 4 pounds of 
 milk, according to the percentage of butter fat. 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Cottonseed meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Buckwheat middlings 100 lbs. 
 
 Corn and cob meal •'>00 lbs. 
 
 Linseed meal ■'JO lbs. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Corn and cob meal 300 lbs. 
 
 Buckwheat middlings 200 lbs. 
 
 Wheat bran 100 lbs. 
 
 Beet pulp 200 lbs. 
 
 Oil meal -^0 l^s. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Cottonseed meal 300 lbs. 
 
 Brewers ' grain 200 lbs. 
 
 Corn and cob meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Beet pulp 100 lbs. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Cottonseed meal 300 lbs. 
 
 Distillers' dried grains 200 lbs. 
 
 Wheat middlings 300 lbs. 
 
 Corn meal 100 lbs. 
 
 This mixture is to balance one of hay and straw : no silage. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Cottonseed meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Wheat bran l^*^ l^s- 
 
 Corn and cob meal 100 lbs. 
 
 For cows that produce 22 pounds of milk per day. Dr. Wiley's 
 ration is 8 lbs. of the grain mixture. 35 lbs. of silage and 8 ^Ibs. of 
 clover hay. Commenting on this ration, Mr. Bishop. Dr. Wiley's part- 
 ner and manager says : 
 
 "This ration will not be found to supply as much dry matter as 
 the Wolff-Lehman standard calls for, but where silage is fed that is 
 
 not necessary. ' ' 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Wheat bran 100 lbs. 
 
 Linseed oil meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Corn meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Ground oats 200 lbs. 
 
124 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Wheat bran 600 lbs. 
 
 Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Feed with 35 pounds of silage and 10 pounds of leguminous hay 
 — clover or alfalfa. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Corn meal 500 lbs. 
 
 Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Distillers' grains 300 lbs. 
 
 Feed with mixed hay, or corn stover and clover with silage. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Bran 125 lbs. 
 
 Cotton seed meal 125 lbs. 
 
 Corn meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Feed with timothy hay or corn stover, with silage as part of the 
 roughage, feeding about 10 pounds of timothy or stover. 
 
 No. 10. 
 A Fattening Ration. 
 
 Corn meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Cotton seed meal 40 lbs. 
 
 Cotton seed hulls 100 lbs. 
 
 No. 11. 
 
 Distillers' grains 200 lbs. 
 
 Oil meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Corn meal 100 lbs. 
 
 Buckwheat middlings 100 lbs. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Cotton seed meal 200 lbs. 
 
 Chops (corn and oats ground together) ... .400 lbs. 
 
 Feed with timothy, stover and clover hay. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND BULES FOE FARMING 125 
 
 PROFITABLE HOG RAISING. 
 
 What is the best hreed of hogs to raise for the general market? 
 
 The Berkshires, Poland Chinas, Duroc Jerseys and Chester White 
 breeds have all proved themselves good market hogs. For some special 
 markets of course the strictly bacon breeds, the Tamworths and 
 Yorkshires as well as the Harapshires have proved themselves of great 
 merit. It would hardly be possible to say which is the best breed to 
 raise for the general market. Any of the four breeds mentioned above 
 should be satisfactory. 
 
 How may the Eastern farmer raise and properly care for one hundred 
 
 hogs? 
 
 Note. — The following answer to this question was furnished by 
 H. W. Mumford, Professor of Animal Industry in the College of 
 Agriculture, University of Illinois. 
 
 THE EQUIPMENT. 
 
 In order to care properly for one hundred hogs, some special 
 equipment will be necessary. The housing will depend upon the 
 severity of weather and the time at which the pigs are to be farrowed. 
 For early farrowing, it is necessary to have a warm hog house, well 
 equipped with windows to furnish sunshine which is essential for the 
 welfare of young animals. 
 
 PASTURE LOTS AND EXERCISE. 
 
 The providing of and construction of pasture lots must receive 
 careful consideration from the standpoint of convenience to the stock- 
 man and for the good of the hogs. It is essential that hogs, both 
 breeding and market hogs, receive plenty of exercise at all seasons of 
 the year. In winter, hogs will not take proper exercise unless com- 
 pelled to do so. One of the best schemes to provide exercise is to place 
 the sleeping quarters and feed troughs at opposite ends of the lot, 
 requiring the hog to travel at least that distance and back for each 
 feed. Forty rods is not too great a distance for this purpose. 
 
 FEEDING. 
 
 After the equipment necessary for hog breeding is considered, 
 the successful breeder should know the food requirements for the 
 proper growth and development of the pig. The principal constituent 
 parts which go to make up the hog feed include water, protein, carbo- 
 hydrate or fat, and ash or mineral matter. All foods require a certain 
 amount of these constituents, but in varying amounts. Consequently 
 a general knowledge of feeds and their relative composition and food 
 value is essential. Various body functions require large amounts of 
 water, as in digestion and carrying off waste matter. In summer the 
 hog will probably drink sufficient water, but in winter it may be 
 necessary to force the hog to drink more water by mixing it with 
 feed to form a slop. 
 
126 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Protein is necessary to build up tissue and so is especially neces- 
 sary during the period of growth. It may be supplied by legume 
 pastures; legume hay (alfalfa, clover, soy beans, etc.) ; packinghouse 
 products, as tankage ; middlings and bran, which contain a larger per- 
 centage than common grains, or by milk. 
 
 Carbohydrate or fat is essential to furnish energy and produce 
 fat. The main source of carbohydrate is corn, though carbohydrate 
 is supplied in oats, barley, bran, middlings, grass forage, as rape, 
 rye and oats, and to some extent in such feeds mentioned above as 
 supplying protein. 
 
 Mineral matter is required to build the body framework or 
 skeleton. Mineral matter is found in all feeds, but in small amounts, 
 so it is necessary for best development to supply it in the form of bone 
 meal, which supplies phosphorus; limestone, which supplies calcium, 
 and salt and potash, which also supply material for bone construction 
 and other vital body functions. 
 
 THE GROWING PIGS. 
 
 As the hog matures, a larger percentage of carbohydrate or 
 fat is required and less of the other food nutrients. However, the 
 brood sow requires all of the foods needed to grow the pig for the 
 proper development of her offspring. The pigs for two months will 
 get most of their sustenance from their dams, following which time 
 the cheapest feed can be supplied by forage crops. Alfalfa is the 
 best of these, followed by clover, bluegrass, or annuals like rape, soy 
 beans, cow peas and oats. The pasture should be supplemented by 
 slop which may contain ground grain, bran or middlings, and milk. 
 The slop should be made up with feeds to supply what the forage 
 lacks. A legume forage does not require a high protein supplement 
 feed; a grass pasture requires protein in the supplemental feeds, as 
 middlings, milk and tankage. A good growing ration for pigs with- 
 out forage is corn 60 per cent, middlings SO per cent and tankage 10 
 per cent. With a legume pasture, tankage is unnecessary. 
 
 FORAGE CROPS. 
 
 With proper use of forage crops throughout the growing season, 
 the pigs can be grown to a weight of 100 to 150 pounds very cheaply. 
 During the fattening period, the feeds should be of a fattening nature. 
 Corn is pre-eminently a fattening feed, and in the corn belt is used 
 for that purpose almost entirely in pork production. After making 
 the best use possible of forage crops, one thousand bushels of corn 
 should be sufficient for finishing one hundred hogs to the weight of 
 250 pounds. Other feeds, such as ground oats or barley, may be sub- 
 stituted, at least in part, for the com. 
 
 Is hogging off corn profitable? 
 
 If a farmer has no great need for his stover, it will pay him to 
 fence in a few acres and give the harvesting and husking of it over 
 to the hogs. In this way not only will the hogs be easily and quickly 
 fattened for market, but the labor and expense of cutting and husk- 
 ing the corn will be saved — an important item, especially when the 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 127 
 
 farmer is short of help. The hogs will not miss a single kernel, and 
 the droppings are in the field where they should be. All the edible 
 weeds will be added to the ration, and if dwarf Essex rape was sown 
 in the field at the time of the last cultivating, so much the better. 
 One acre of corn, raised from selected seed, should be sufiicient to 
 fatten ten hogs. 
 
 Why does the Eastern farmer pay so little attention to the hog 
 
 industry ? 
 
 Principally, because his attention has been so occupied with dairy- 
 ing that he has failed to realize the profit that may be had from hogs. 
 If the Eastern farmer will erect suitable buildings, which must be 
 warm, dry and well ventilated, and provide suitable pasture, he may 
 add very materially to his profits. It possibly might mean a greater 
 profit than he gets from his dairy and with comparatively no labor. 
 
 What causes sows to devour their young f 
 
 A lack of protein food in her rations. Often this can be prevented 
 by giving the sow a good sized piece of fat poz'k on the day she is due 
 to farrow. 
 
 What is a good ration for sows with pigs? 
 
 Wheat middlings 100 lbs. 
 
 Wheat bran 100 lbs. 
 
 Tankage 20 lbs. 
 
 Salt 2 lbs. 
 
 What protection shoidd he provided for the young pigs in the pen? 
 
 Fasten arond the farrowing pen a 1x6 board so that it will be 
 8 inches clear of the floor. Secure by nailing brackets above it. 
 Push a little fine straw back under it and the young pigs will be safe 
 from being crushed by their mother. 
 
 How shoidd the pasture he arranged? 
 
 If possible, arrange pasture in two or more lots, so that the feed 
 may be growing in one while the hogs are feeding in the other. 
 Dwarf Essex rape will prove very satisfactory in the East. A small 
 field of Jerusalem artichokes would be a great help in the fall. 
 
 HOG DON'TS. 
 
 Don't try to get along without a good hog house. 
 
 Don't have too small a pasture. 
 
 Don't feed much corn to the brood sow. 
 
 Don't give the brood sow anything for twenty-four hours after 
 farrowing, except warm water. 
 
 Don't feed anything sour to the young pigs. 
 
 Don't let your hog house get filthy. 
 
 Don't forget to see that your hogs have a clean, dry bed. 
 
 Don't cook feed to fatten your hogs; give them corn in the ear 
 and water. 
 
128 THE F A R M E E S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 GOVERNMENT LABOR BUREAUS. 
 
 What is the Uinted States Government doing to supply laborers 
 and to secure work for those out of employment f 
 
 The Department of Labor has divided the United States into dis- 
 tricts, or "zones," and placed each in charge of one or more agents 
 whose duty i.-< not only to supply all kinds of help, male or female, but 
 to secure work for those who seek it. The agents are really conduct- 
 ing free government labor bureaus and the operation of the system, 
 as carried out, has been proving very satisfactory. Following are the 
 different zones with their offices and sub-offices : 
 
 Zone 1, Maine, Massachusetts, Rhode Island. Principal office, 
 Long Wharf, Boston, Mass. ; sub-offices, Providence, R. I., Portland, 
 Me., and New Bedford, Mass. 
 
 Zone 2, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, New Hampshire and 
 Vermont. Principal office, U. S. Barge Office, New York City ; sub- 
 offices, Buffalo, N. Y., Matawan, N. J. 
 
 Zone 3, Pennsylvania, Delaware, West Virginia. Principal of- 
 fice, 135 S. Second St., Philadelphia, Pa. ; sub-office, Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 Zone 4, Maryland. Office, Stewart Building, Baltimore, Md. 
 Zone 5, Virginia, North Carolina. Office, 119 W. Main St., Nor- 
 folk, Va. 
 
 Zone 6, Florida, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina. Principal 
 office. Federal Bldg., Jacksonville, Fla. ; sub-offices. Savannah, Ga., 
 Mobile and Birmingham, Ala., and Charleston, S. C. 
 
 Zone 7, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Tennessee. Principal 
 office. Immigration Station, New Orleans, La. ; sub-offices, Gulfport, 
 Miss., and Memphis, Tenn. 
 
 Zone 8, Texas and New Mexico. Principal office. Immigration 
 Station, Galveston, Tex. Sub-offices, Albuquerque, N. Mex., Big 
 Spring, Brownville, Laredo, Eagle Pass, San Antonio, Del Rio, El 
 Paso, San Angelo and Amarillo, Tex. ; Tucumcari and Deming^ N. 
 Mex. 
 
 Zone 9, Ohio and Kentuckv. Office, Post Office Bldg., Cleveland, 
 Ohio. 
 
 Zone 10, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin. Office, 845 S. 
 Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 
 
 Zone 11. IMinnesota, North Dakota, South Dakota. Office, Federal 
 Bldg., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 Zone 12. Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Iowa. Office, Chemical 
 Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 Zone 13, Colorado, Wyoming, Nebraska, Utah. Principal office. 
 Central Savings Bank Bldg., Denver, Colo. Sub-offices, Salt Lake 
 City, Utah. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOB FARMING 129 
 
 Zone 14, Montana and Idaho. Principal office, Power BIdg., 
 Helena, Mont. Sub-office, Moscow, Idaho. 
 
 Zone 15, Washington. Principal office, Rooms 208-210 Literary 
 Bldg., Seattle, Wash. Sub-offices, Spokane, Walla Walla, Tacoma, 
 Aberdeen, Everett, Bellinghara, Port Angeles, Port Townsend, Custer, 
 Lynden, Nooksack and Friday Harbor, Wash. 
 
 Zone 16, Oregon. Principal office. Railway Exchange Bldg., Port- 
 land, Ore. Sub-office, Astora, Ore. 
 
 Zone 17, Northern California and Nevada. Principal office, U. S. 
 Appraiser's Bldg., San Francisco, Cal. Sub-offices, Fresno, Sacra- 
 mento, Ureka and Monterey, Cal. 
 
 Zone 18, Southern California and Arizona. Principal office. Post 
 Office Bldg., Los Angeles, Cal. Sub-offices, Douglas, Naco, Nogales, 
 Phoenix, Yuma and Tucson, Ariz. ; Indio, Calexico, San Bernardino, 
 Backersfield, San Luis Obispo and San Diego, Cal. 
 
 How may I get assistance from a government bureau f 
 If near a bureau, call on the agent and tell him what you want. 
 If at a distance from a bureau, ask your postmaster for a blank, an 
 employer's blank, if you wish to employ help; a laborer's blank, if 
 you are looking for work. Answer the questions carefully and truth- 
 fully and mail to the nearest office of the zone in which you reside, 
 addressing it as follows: "Distribution Branch U. S. Immigration 
 Service." For instance, if you are living at Centerville, N. Y., your 
 letter would be addressed as follows : 
 
 Distribution Branch U. S. Immigration Service, 
 
 Buffalo, N. Y. 
 Must I advance railroad fare for the man the bureau sends me? 
 Sometimes it is necessary. In case it is advanced, the agent sees 
 that the ticket is purchased and that the man takes the right train. 
 He will also send you the man's baggage for security. 
 
 Must I accept anyoyie ivhom the bureau chooses to send? 
 
 Not if the qualifications have not been met. The agents study 
 the farmer's requirements very carefully and seldom send men that 
 do not fit. 
 
 Where may I obtain more information concerning the Government 
 Labor Bureaus? 
 
 Address, Division of Information, Department of Labor, Wash- 
 ington, D. C. 
 
130 THE FARMEBS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 GENERAL ''DON'TS" FOR FARMERS. 
 
 Don't think you know it all. 
 
 Don't loaf on the job when work is to be done. 
 
 Don't deny the wife and children needed money or necessary 
 pleasures. 
 
 Don't go half clothed or hungry, you can't do one half the work. 
 
 Don't try to save a penny, when the effort costs you a quarter. 
 
 Don't try to get along with toggled up harness and equipment 
 when it is cheaper to use better equipment. 
 
 Don't buy stock or equipment because it is the cheapest, it may 
 cost the most. 
 
 Don't let the wife get stoop-shouldered and gray at 45, over the 
 wash board, buy her a washing machine. 
 
 Don't starve the cattle through the winter, they'll starve your 
 family the year through. 
 
 Don't humiliate your family by driving a shabby buggy or a 
 blind plug horse. Give the boys a good horse and carriage and they 
 will stay by the farm. 
 
 Don't go to law. 
 
 Don't think your neighbor is all wrong and you are all right. 
 
 Don't carry a grouch. 
 
 Don 't club the stock. 
 
 Don't tell the wife, "Make that hat do another year." 
 
 Don't stable your cows on the exposed side of a barn. 
 
 Don't swear or curse when things go wrong, laugh and keep cool. 
 
 Don't be unreasonable with the boys, the wife or the neighbors. 
 
 Don't fight out your grievances, talk them over. 
 
 Don't always take the other fellow's word, think for yourself. 
 
 Don't stay at home the year around, get acquainted around town, 
 but don't become a loafer. 
 
 Don't sign papers for strangers. 
 
 Don't invest in mining stock, or other get-rich-quick schemes. 
 Not one mining proposition in ten thousand succeeds, even though its 
 promoters may be honest and sincere. 
 
 Don't forget to give your family a holiday now and then. 
 
 Don't let your yards be a receptacle for old rubbish and broken 
 farm machinery. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 131 
 
 Don't keep scrub stock, if you can afford better. 
 
 Don't forget that conveniences to lighten the work in the kitchen 
 are just as essential as those at the barn. 
 
 Don't let your buildings assume a general air of shiftlessness and 
 neglect. 
 
 Don't forget that a quick and efficient method of putting your 
 farming tools out of commission is to leave them out doors. 
 
 Don 't be stingy with oil. 
 
 Don 't be bothered with inconveniences that may be remedied with 
 a little labor and less money. 
 
 Don't live beyond your means; but don't think you have to deny 
 yourself every luxury and pleasure until the farm is paid for. Enjoy 
 yourself a little as you go along. 
 
 Don't put poor fruit in the middle of the package. It is this 
 short-sighted policy that has done much to saddle upon the farmer the 
 undesirable "thirty-five cent dollar." 
 
 Don't deed your farm to your children on their promise to pro- 
 vide for you during the rest of your life. The folly of this act has 
 often been repented in sack cloth and ashes. 
 
132 
 
 THE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 WHERE TO GO FOR ADVICE. 
 
 THE STATE EXPERIMENT STATIONS. 
 The experiment stations, although established primarily to con- 
 duct research work in agriculture, may be called upon for assistance 
 m solving your farm problems. There is no charge for this service. 
 Address all communications to Director of Experiment Station, at 
 the place where the station is located. The following list gives, first 
 the name of the State, next the town or postoffice where the station 
 is located, followed by the name of the director or special agent in 
 charge. 
 
 -College Park, H. J. 
 
 Fayetteville, 
 -Berkeley, T. 
 
 P. 
 
 ALABAMA — College station. Au- 
 burn, J. F. Duggar; Canebrake sta- 
 tion, Uniontown, L. H. Moore; Tus- 
 kegee station, Tuskegee Institute, 
 G. W. Carver. 
 
 ALASKA— Sitka, C. C. Georgeson. 
 
 AEIZONA — Tucson, R. H. Forbes. 
 
 ARKANSAS — Favetteville. M. 
 
 Nelson. 
 
 CALIFORNIA- 
 Hunt. 
 
 COLORADO— Fort Collins, C. 
 Gillette. 
 
 CONNECTICUT — State station. 
 New Haven; Storrs station, Storrs; 
 B. H. Jenkins. 
 
 DELAWARE— Newark, H. Hay- 
 ward. 
 
 FLORIDA — Gainesville, P. 
 Rolfs. 
 
 GEORGIA— Experiment, R. J. 
 De Loach. 
 
 GUAM— Island of Guam, A. 
 Hartenbower. 
 
 HAWAII — Federal station, Hono- 
 lulu, E. V. Wilcox; Sugar planters' 
 station, Honolulu, H. P. Agee. 
 IDAHO — Moscow, J. S. Jones. 
 ILLINOIS— Urbaua, E. Davenport. 
 INDIANA— La Fayette, A. Goss. 
 IOWA— Ames, C. F. Curtiss. 
 KANSAS— Manhattan, W. M. Jar- 
 dine. 
 
 KENTUCKY— Lexington, J. H. 
 Kastle. 
 
 LOUISIANA— State station, Baton 
 Rouge; Sugar station, Audubon 
 Park, New Orleans; North Louisiana 
 station, Calhoun; W. R. Dodson. 
 MAINE— Orono, C. D. Woods, 
 
 H. 
 
 H. 
 
 C. 
 
 MARYLAND- 
 Patterson. 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS— Amherst, W. 
 P. Brooks. 
 
 MICHIGAN— East Lansing, R. S. 
 Shaw. 
 
 MINNESOTA — University farm, 
 St. I'aul; A. F. Woods. 
 
 MISSISSIPPI — Agricultural col- 
 lege, E. R. Lloyd. 
 
 MISSOURI— College station, Col- 
 umbia; F. B. Mumford. Fruit station, 
 Mountain Grove, Paul Evans. 
 
 MONTANA— Bozeman, F. B. Lin- 
 field. 
 
 NEBRASKA— Lincoln, E. A. Bur- 
 nett. 
 
 NEVADA— Reno, S. D. Doten. 
 
 NEW HAMPSHIRE— Durham, J. 
 C. Kendall. 
 
 NEW JERSEY— New Brunswick, 
 J. G. Lipman. 
 
 NEW MEXICO— State college, Fa- 
 bian Garcia. 
 
 NEW YORK— State station, Gen- 
 eva, W. H. Jordan; Cornell station, 
 Ithaca, B. T. Galloway. 
 
 NORTH CAROLINA— College sta- 
 tion, West Raleigh; State station, 
 Raleigh; B. W. Kilgore. 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA — Agricultural 
 college, T. P. Cooper. 
 
 OHIO— Wooster, C. E. Thome. 
 
 OKLAHOMA — Stillwater, L. L. 
 Lewis. 
 
 OREGON— Corvallis, A. B. Cordley 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA— State college, 
 R. L. Watts; State college. Institute 
 of Animal Nutrition, H. P. Armsby. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 133 
 
 THE STATE EXPERIMENT STATIONS— Continued. 
 
 UTAH— Logau, E. D. Ball. 
 VERMONT — Burlington, .J. L 
 Hills. 
 
 VIRGINIA — Blackburg, W. J. 
 Schoene; Norfolk, truck station, T. 
 
 PORTO RICO— Federal station, 
 Mayaguez, D. W. May; Sugar plant- 
 ers' station, Rio Piedras, -J. T. 
 Crawley. 
 
 RHODE ISLAND -Kingston, B. 
 L. Hartwell. 
 
 SOUTH CAROLINA— Clemson col- 
 lege, J. N. Harper. 
 
 SOUTH DAKOTA— Brookings, J. 
 W. Wilson. 
 
 TENNESSEE— Knoxville, H. A. 
 Morgan. 
 
 TEXAS — College station, B. 
 Youngblood. 
 
 C. Johnson. 
 
 WASHINGTON— Pullman, I. D. 
 Cardiff. 
 
 WEST VIRGINIA— Morgantown, 
 E. D. Sanderson. 
 
 WISCONSIN— Madison, H. L. Rus- 
 sell. 
 
 WYOMING — Laramie, 
 Knight. 
 
 H. G. 
 
 ADVICE FROM THE U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 
 
 The various bureaus under the Department of Agriculture may be depended 
 upon to supply information on their special line. For instance, if you desire 
 information as to the identity and life history of a peculiar kind of bug that 
 you have discovered preying upon one of your crops send a specimen to L. O. 
 Howard, Bureau of Entomology, Washington, D. C. Following are the addresses 
 of the different bureaus: Weather Bureau, G. F. Marvin, chief; Bureau of 
 Animal Industry, A. D. Melvin, chief; Bureau of Plant Industry, W. A. Taylor, 
 chief; Forest Service, H. S. Graves, forester; Bureau of Soils, Milton Whitney, 
 chief; Bureau of Chemistry, C. L. Alsberg, chief; Bureau of Crop Estimates, 
 L. M. Estabrook, statistician; Bureau of Entomology, L. O. Howard, entomolo- 
 gist; Bureau of Biological Survey, H. W. Henshaw, chief; Office of Public- 
 Roads, L. W. Page, director. 
 
 Many of the agricultural papers, notably The Rural New Yorker, Country 
 Gentleman, and The Fruit Grower, will, through their staff of experts, answer 
 free of charge, all questions sent to them by their subscribers. 
 
 FARMERS' BULLETINS. 
 
 Bulletins in this list will be sent free, so long as the supply lasts, to any 
 resident of the United States, on application to his Senator, Representative, or 
 Delegate in Congress, or to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. 
 Because of the limited supply, applicants are urged to select only a few numbers, 
 choosing those which are of special interest to them. The bulletins entitled 
 "Experiment Station Work" give briefly the results of experiments performed 
 by the State experiment stations. 
 
 22. The Feeding of Farm Animals. , 101. 
 30. Grape Diseases on the Pacific Coast. [ 104. 
 
 34. Meats: Composition and Cooking. 106. 
 
 36. Cotton Seed and Its Products. | 113. 
 
 44. Commercial Fertilizers. i 120. 
 
 48. The Manuring of Cotton. : 121. 
 51. Standard Varieties of Chickens. 
 
 54. Some Common Birds. , 127. 
 
 55. The Dairy Herd. I 128. 
 
 61. Asparagus Culture. t 134. 
 
 62. Marketing Farm Produce. j 
 
 64. Ducks and Geese. 138. 
 
 77. The Liming of Soils. 139. 
 
 78. Experiment Station Work — '■' 
 
 79. Experiment Station Work — VI 140. 
 81. Corn Culture in the South. 142. 
 85. Fish as Food. 
 
 88. Alkali Lands. 152. 
 
 97. Experiment Station Work — X. j 154. 
 99. Insect Enemies of Shade Trees. 
 
 Millets. 
 
 Notes on Frost. 
 
 Breeds of Dairy Cattle. 
 
 The Apple and How to Grow It. 
 
 Insects Affecting Tobacco. 
 
 Beans, Peas, and Other Legumes as 
 
 Food. 
 Important Insecticides. 
 Eggs and Their Uses as Food. 
 Tree Planting on Rural School 
 
 Grounds. 
 Irrigation in Field and Garden. 
 Emmer: A Grain for the Semiarid 
 
 Regions. 
 Pineapple Growing. 
 Principles of Nutrition .ind Nutritive 
 
 Value of Food. 
 Scabies of Cattle. 
 The Home Fruit Garden: Preparation 
 
 and Care. 
 
134 
 
 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 FARMERS' BULI1ETIN&— Coutinued. 
 
 157. The Propagation of Plants. 
 
 158. How to Build Small Irrigation 
 
 Ditches. 
 162. Experiment Station Work — XXI. 
 164. Rape as a Forage Crop. 
 
 166. Cheese Making on the Farm. 
 
 167. Cassava. -.ttttt 
 
 169. Experiment Station Work — XXII. 
 
 170. Principles of Horse Feeding. 
 
 172. Scale Insects and Mites on^ Citms 
 
 Trees. ' 
 
 173. Primer of Forestry. Part 1: The 
 
 Forest. 
 
 174. Broom Corn. 
 
 175. Home Manufactured and Use of Un- 
 
 fermented Grape Juice. 
 
 176. Cranberry Culture. 
 
 178. Insects Injurious in Cranberry Ctu- 
 
 ture. 
 
 179. Horseshoeing. 
 
 181. Pruning. 
 
 182. Poultry as Food. 
 
 183. Meat on the Farm: Butchering. Cur- 
 
 ing, and Keeping. 
 185. Beautifying the Home Grounds. 
 188. Weeds Used in Medicine. 
 190. Experiment Station Work — XXIV. 
 192. Barnyard Manure. 
 
 195. Annual Flowering Plants. 
 
 196. Usefulness of the American Toad 
 
 197. Importation of Game Birds and Eggs 
 
 for Propagation. 
 
 198. Strawberries. 
 200. Turkeys. 
 
 203. Canned Fruits, Preserves, and Jellies. 
 
 204. The Cultivation of Mushrooms. 
 
 205. Pig Management. 
 
 206. Milk Fever and Its Treatment. 
 213. Raspberries. 
 
 218. The School Garden. 
 
 219. Lessons from the Grain Rust Epi- 
 
 demic of 1904. 
 
 220. Tomatoes. 
 
 221. Fungou-s Diseases of the Cranberry. 
 
 223. Miscellaneous Cotton Insects in 
 
 Texas. 
 
 224. Canadian Field Peas. 
 
 229. The Production of Good Seed Corn. 
 232. Okra: Its Culture and Uses. 
 234. The Guinea Fowl. 
 
 238. Citrus Fruit Growing in the Gulf 
 
 States. 
 
 239. The Corrosion of Fence Wire. 
 
 242. An Example of Model Farming. 
 
 243. Fungicides and Their Use in Pre- 
 
 venting Diseases of Fruits. 
 2^5. Renovation of Worn-out Soils. 
 246. Saccharine Sorghums far Forage. 
 249. Cereal Breakfast Foods. 
 251. Experiment Station Work — XXXIV. 
 
 253. The Germination of Seed Corn. 
 
 254. Cucumbers. 
 
 255. The Home Vegetable Garden. 
 
 256. Preparation of Vegetables for the 
 
 Table. 
 
 257. Soil Fertility. 
 
 263. Practical Information for Beginners 
 
 in Irrigation. 
 
 264. The Brown-tail Moth and How to 
 
 Control It. 
 266. Management of Soils to Conserve 
 Moisture. 
 
 270. Modern Conveniences for the Farm 
 
 Home. 
 
 271. Forage Crop Practices in Western 
 
 Oregon and Western Washington. 
 
 272. A Successful Hog and Seed-corn 
 
 Farm. 
 274. Flax Culture. 
 
 275. The Gipsy Moth and How to Control 
 
 It. 
 
 276. Experiment Station Work — XXXIX. 
 
 277. The Use of Alcohol and Gasoline in 
 
 Farm Engines. 
 
 278. Leguminous Crops for Green Manur- 
 
 ing. 
 
 279. A Method of Eradicating Johnson 
 
 Grass. 
 
 281. Experiment Station Work — XL. 
 
 282. Celery. 
 
 284. Insect and Fungous Enemies of the 
 Grape East of the Rocky Mountains. 
 287. Poultry Management. 
 
 289. Beans. 
 
 290. The Cotton Bollworm. 
 
 291. Evaporation of Apples. 
 
 292. Cost of Filling Silos. 
 
 283. Use of Fruit as Food. 
 
 294. Farm Practice in the Columbia Basin 
 
 Uplands. 
 
 295. Potatoes and Other Root Crops as 
 
 Food. 
 298. Food Value of Corn and Corn Prod- 
 ucts. 
 
 301. Home-grown Tea. 
 
 302. Sea Island Cotton: Its Culture, Im- 
 
 provement and Diseases. 
 
 303. Corn Harvesting Machinery. 
 
 304. Growing and Curing Hops. 
 
 306. Dodder in Relation to Farm Seeds. 
 
 307. Roselle: Its Culture and Uses. 
 
 310. A Successful Alabama Diversification 
 
 Farm. 
 
 311. Sand-clay and Burnt-clay Roads. 
 
 312. A Successful Southern Hay Farm. 
 
 313. Harvesting and Storing Corn. 
 318. Covrpeas. 
 
 322. Milo as a Dry-land Grain Crop. 
 
 323. Clover Farming on the Sandy Jack- 
 
 pine Lands of the North. 
 
 324. Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 325. Small Farms in the Corn Belt. 
 
 326. Building up a Run-down Cotton 
 
 Plantation. 
 328. Silver Fox Farming. 
 
 330. Deer Farming in the United States. 
 
 331. Forage Crops for Hogs in Kansas 
 
 and Oklahoma. 
 
 332. Nuts and Their Uses as Food. 
 
 337. Cropping Systems for New England 
 
 Dairy Farms. 
 
 338. Macadam Roads. 
 539. Alfalfa. 
 
 343. The Cultivation of Tobacco in Ken- 
 tucky and Tennessee. 
 
 345. Some Common Disinfectants. 
 
 346. The Computation of Rations for 
 
 Farm Animals by the Use of 
 Energy Values. 
 
 347. The Repair of Farm Equipment. 
 
 349. The Dairy Industry in the South. 
 
 350. The Dehorning of Cattle. 
 
 351. The Tuberculin Test of Cattle for 
 
 Tuberculosis. 
 
 354. Onion Culture. 
 
 355. A Successful Poultry and Dairy 
 
 Farm. 
 
 358. A Primer of Forestry. Part II: 
 
 Practical Forestry. 
 
 359. Canning Vegetables in the Home. 
 361. Meadow Fescue: Its Culture and 
 
 Uses. 
 
 363. Tlie Use of Milk as Food. 
 
 364. A Profitable Cotton Farm. 
 
 365. Farm Management in Northern Pota- 
 
 to-growing Sections. 
 367. Lightning and Lightning Conductors. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 135 
 
 FARMERS' BULLETINS— Continued. 
 
 368. The Eradication of Bindweed, or 
 
 Wild Morning-glory. 
 
 369. How to Destroy Kats. 
 
 370. Replanning a Farm for Profit. 
 
 371. Drainage of Irrigated Lands. 
 
 372. Soy Beans. 
 
 373. Irrigation of Alfalfa. 
 
 375. Care of Food in the Home. 
 
 377. Harmfulness of Headache Mi.xtures. 
 
 379. Hog Cholera. 
 
 380. The Loco-weed Disease. 
 
 382. The Adulteration of Forage-plant 
 
 Seeds. 
 386. Potato '"ullure on Irrigated Farm.s of 
 
 the West. 
 
 388. Experiment Station Work^LVI. 
 
 389. Bread and Bread Making. 
 
 390. Pheasant liaising in tlie United 
 
 States. 
 
 391. Economical Use of Meat in the 
 
 Home. 
 
 392. Irrigation of Sugar Beets. 
 
 393. Habit-forming Agents. 
 
 394. The Use of Windmills in Irrigation 
 
 in the Semiarid West. 
 
 395. Sixty-day and Kherson Oats. 
 
 396. The Mnskrat. 
 
 398. Farm Practice in the Use of Com- 
 
 mercial Fertilizers in the South 
 Atlantic States. 
 
 399. Irrigation of Urain. 
 
 400. A More Profitable Corn-planting 
 
 Method. 
 
 401. The Protection of Orchards in the 
 
 Pacific Northwest from Spring 
 Frosts by Means of Fires and 
 Smudges. 
 
 402. Canada Bluegrass : Its Culture and 
 
 Uses. 
 
 403. The Construction of Concrete Fence 
 
 Posts. 
 
 404. Irrigation of Orchards. 
 
 406. Soil Conservation. 
 
 407. The Potato as a Truck Crop. 
 411. Feeding Hogs in the South. 
 
 413. The Cnre of Milk and Its Use in the 
 
 Home. 
 
 414. Corn Cultivation. 
 
 415. Seed Corn. 
 
 416. The Production of Cigar-leaf Tobac- 
 
 co in Pennsylvania. 
 
 417. Rice Culture. 
 
 420. Oats: Distribution and Uses. 
 
 421. Control of Blowing Soils. 
 
 422. Demonstration Work on Southern 
 
 Farms. 
 
 424. Oats: Growing the Crop. 
 
 425. Experiment Station Work — LX. 
 
 426. Canning Peaches on the Farm. 
 
 427. Barlev Culture in the Southern 
 
 States. 
 
 428. Testing Farm Seeds in the Home and 
 
 in the Rural School. 
 
 429. Industrial Alcohol: Sources and 
 
 Manufacture. 
 
 431. The Peanut. 
 
 432. How a City Family Managed a Farm. 
 
 433. Cabbage. 
 
 434. The Home Production of Onion Seed 
 
 and Sets. 
 
 435. Experiment Station Work — LXII. 
 
 436. Winter Oats for the South. 
 
 437. A System of Tenant Farming and Its 
 
 Results. 
 
 438. Hog Houses. 
 
 439. Anthrax, with Special Reference to 
 
 Its Suppression. 
 
 440. Spraying Peaches for the Control of 
 
 Brown Rot Scab and Curculio. 
 
 441. Lespedeza, or Japan Clover. 
 
 442. The Treatment of Bee Diseases. 
 
 443. Barley: Growing the Crop. 
 
 444. Remedies and Preventives Against 
 
 Mosquitoes. 
 
 445. Marketing Eggs Through the Cream- 
 
 ery. 
 
 446. The Choice of Crops for Alkali Land. 
 
 447. Bees. 
 
 448. Better Grain-sorghum Crops. 
 
 449. Rabies or Hydrophobia. 
 
 450. Some Facts about Malaria. 
 
 452. Capons and Caponizing. 
 
 453. Danger of General Spread of the 
 
 Gypsy '■'iid Brown-tail Moths 
 Through Imported Nursery Stock. 
 
 454. A Successful New York Farm. 
 
 455. Red Clover. 
 
 456. Our Grosbeaks and Their Value to 
 
 Agriculture. 
 
 458. The Best Two Sweet Sorghums for 
 
 Forage. 
 
 459. House Flies. 
 
 460. Frames as a Factor in Truck Grow- 
 
 ing. 
 
 461. The Use of Concrete on the Farm. 
 4t)2. Tile Utilization of Logged-off Land 
 
 i'or Pasture in Western Oregon and 
 Western Washington. 
 
 463. The Sanitary Privy. 
 
 464. The Eradication of Quack-grass. 
 4S6. Winter Emmer. 
 
 467. The Control of the Chestnut-bark 
 Disease. 
 
 471. Grape Propagation, Pruning, and 
 
 Training. 
 
 472. Systems of FarmLng in Central New 
 
 Jersey. 
 
 473. Tuberculosis. 
 
 474. Use of Paint on the Farm. 
 
 475. Ice Houses. 
 
 476. The Dying of Pine in the Southern 
 
 States: Cause, Extent and Remedy. 
 
 477. Sorghum-sirup Manufacture. 
 
 478. How to Prevent Typhoid Fever . 
 
 480. Practical Methods of Disinfecting 
 
 Stables. 
 
 481. Concrete Construction on the Live- 
 
 stock Farm. 
 
 482. The Pear and How to Grow It. 
 
 483. The Thornless Prickly Pears. 
 
 485. Sweet Clover. 
 
 486. Experiment Station Work — LXVIII. 
 
 487. Cheese and Its Economical Uses in 
 
 the Diet. 
 
 488. Diseases of Cabbage and Related 
 
 Crops and Their Control. 
 
 489. Two Dangerous Imported Plant Dis- 
 
 eases. 
 
 490. Bacteria in Milk. 
 
 491. The Profitable Management of the 
 
 Small Apple Orchard on the Gen- 
 eral Farm. 
 
 492. The More Important Insect and 
 
 Fungous Enemies of the Fruit and 
 Foliage of the Apple. 
 
 493. The English Sparrow as a Pest. 
 
 494. Lawns and Lawn Soils. 
 
 495. Alfalfa Seed Production. 
 
 496. Raising Belgian Hares and Other 
 
 Rabbits. 
 
 497. Some Common Game, Aquatic, and 
 
 Rapacious Birds in Relation to 
 Man. 
 
 498. Methods of Exterminating the Texas- 
 
 fever Tick. 
 
 499. Experiment Station Work — LXIX. 
 
 500. The Control of the Boll Weevil. 
 
 501. Cotton Improvement Under Weevil 
 
 Conditions. 
 
136 
 
 THE F A B M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 FAEMEBS' BULLETINS— Continued. 
 
 502. Timothy Production on Irrigated 
 
 Land in the Northwestern States. 
 
 503. Comb Honey. 
 
 504. Experiment Station Work — LXX. 
 
 505. Benefits of Improved Roads. 
 
 506. Food of Some Well-known Birds of 
 
 Forest, Farm, and Garden. 
 
 507. The Smuts of Wheat, Oats, Barley, 
 
 and Corn. 
 
 508. Market Hay. 
 
 509. Forage Crops for the Cotton Region. 
 
 511. Farm Bookkeeping. 
 
 512. The Boll Weevil Problem. 
 
 514. Experiment Station Work — LXXI. 
 
 515. Vetches. 
 
 516. The Production of Maple Sirup and 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 517. Experiment Station Work — LXXII. 
 
 518. Winter Barley. 
 
 519. An Example of Intensive Farming in 
 
 the Cotton Belt. 
 
 521. Canning Tomatoes at Home and in 
 
 Club Work. 
 
 522. Experiment Station Work — LXXIII. 
 
 523. Tobacco Curing. 
 
 524. Tile Drainage on the Farm. 
 
 525. Raising Guinea Pigs. 
 
 526. Mutton and Its Value in the Diet. 
 
 528. Hints to Poultry Raisers. 
 
 529. Vetch Growing in the South Atlantic 
 
 States. 
 
 530. Important Poultrj; Diseases.^ 
 
 531. Larkspur, or "Poison-Weed." 
 
 533. Gflod Seed Potatoes and How to Pro- 
 
 duce Them. 
 
 534. Durum Wheat. 
 
 535. Sugar and Its Value as Food. 
 
 536. Stock Poisoning Due to Scarcity of 
 
 Pood. 
 
 537. How to Grow an Acre of Corn. 
 
 538. Sites, Soils, and Varieties for Citrus 
 
 Groves in the Gulf States. 
 
 539. Propagation of Citrus Trees in the 
 
 Gulf States. 
 
 540. The Stable Fly. 
 
 541. Farm Buttermaking. 
 
 542. Culture, Fertilization, and Frost Pro- 
 
 tection of Citrus Groves in the 
 Gulf States. 
 
 543. Common White Grubs. 
 
 544. Potato-tuber Diseases. 
 
 545. Controlling Canada Thistles. 
 
 546. How to Manage a Corn Crop in Ken- 
 
 tucky and West Virginia. 
 
 547. The Yellow Fever Mosquito. 
 
 548. Storing and Marketing Sweet Pota- 
 
 toes. 
 
 550. Crimson Clover: Growing the Crop. 
 
 551. The Cultivation of American Gin- 
 
 seng. 
 
 552. Kafir as a Grain Crop. 
 
 553. Pop Corn for the Home. 
 
 554. Pop Corn for the Market. 
 
 555. Cotton Anthracnose and How to Con- 
 
 trol It. 
 557. The Potato Tuber Moth. 
 559. Use of Corn, Kafir, and Cowpeas in 
 
 the Home. 
 
 561. Bean Growing in Eastern Washing- 
 
 ton and Oregon and Northern 
 Idaho. 
 
 562. The Organization of Boys' and Girls' 
 
 Poultry Clubs. 
 
 564. The Gipsy Moth and the Brown-tail 
 Moth, with Suggestions for Their 
 
 Control. 
 
 565. Corn Meal as a Food and Ways of 
 
 Using It. 
 
 566. Boys' Pig Clubs. 
 
 537. Sugar beet Growing Under Irrigation. 
 
 568. Sugar-beet Growing Under Humid 
 
 Conditions. 
 
 569. Texas or Tick Fever. 
 
 571. Tobacco Culture. 
 
 572. A System of Farm Cost Accounting. 
 673. The Angora Goat. 
 
 574. Poultry House Construction. 
 
 576. Breeds of Sheep for the Farm. 
 
 577. Growing Egyptian Cotton in the Salt 
 
 River Valley, Arizona. 
 
 578. The Handling and Feeding of Silage. 
 
 579. Crimson Corn. 
 
 580. Beef Production in the South. 
 
 582. Uses for Chestnut Timber Killed by 
 
 the Bark Disease. 
 
 583. The Common Mole. 
 
 685. Natural and Artificial Incubation of 
 Hens' Eggs. 
 
 586. Collection and Preservation of Plant 
 
 Material for use in the Study of 
 Agriculture. 
 
 587. Economic Value of North American 
 
 Skunks. 
 
 588. Economical Cattle Feeding in the 
 
 Corn Belt. 
 
 589. Homemade Silos. 
 
 591. The Classification and Grading of 
 
 Cotton. 
 
 592. Stock Watering Places on Western 
 
 Grazing Lands. 
 
 593. How to Use Farm Credit. 
 
 594. Shipping Eggs by Parcel Post. 
 
 595. Arsenate of Lead as an Insecticide 
 
 Against the Tobacco Hornworms. 
 
 596. The Culture of Winter Wheat in the 
 
 Eastern Half of the United States. 
 
 597. The Road Drag and How it is Used. 
 
 599. Pasture and Grain Crops for Hogs in 
 
 Pacific Northwest. 
 
 600. An Outfit for Boring Taprooted 
 
 Stumps for Blasting. 
 
 601. A New Method of Cotton Culture and 
 
 Its iVpplication. 
 
 602. Clean Milk: Production and Hand 
 
 ling. 
 
 603. Arsenical Cattle Dips: Methods of 
 
 Preparation and Directions for 
 Use. 
 
 605. Sudan Grass. 
 
 606. Collection and Preservation of In- 
 
 sects and Other Material for Use 
 in the Study of Agriculture. 
 
 607. The Farm Kitchen as a Workshop. 
 
 608. Removing Garlic Flavor from Milk 
 
 and Cream. 
 
 609. Bird Houses and How to Build Them. 
 
 610. Wild Onion: Methods of Eradica- 
 
 tion. 
 
 612. Breeds of Beef Cattle. 
 
 613. Goldenseal under Cultivation. 
 
 614. An Efficient Farm System for the 
 
 Corn Belt. 
 
 616. Winter-Wheat Varieties for the East- 
 
 ern United States. 
 
 617. School Lessons on Corn. 
 
 618. Leaf-Spot, a Disease of the Sugar 
 
 Beet. 
 
 619. Breeds of Draft Horses. 
 
 620. The Agricultural Outlook. 
 
 621. How to Attract Birds in Northeast- 
 
 ern United States. 
 
 622. Basket Willow Culture. 
 
 623. Ice Houses and the Use of Ice on 
 
 the Dairy Farm. 
 
 624. Natural and Artificial Brooding of 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 625. Cotton Wilt and Root Knot. 
 
 626. The Carpet Beetle, or "Buffalo 
 
 Moth." 
 
 627. The House Centipede. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 137 
 
 FARMERS' BULLETINS— Continued. 
 
 628. Game Laws for 1914. 
 
 629. The Agricultural Outlook. 
 
 630. Some Common Birds Useful to the 
 
 Farmer. 
 
 631. Growing Peaches: Sites, Propaga- 
 
 tion, Planting, Tillage, and Main- 
 tenance of Soil Fertility. 
 
 632. Growing Peaches: Pruning, Renewal 
 
 of Tops, Thinning, Interplanted 
 Crops, and Special Practices. 
 
 633. Growing Peaches: Varieties and 
 
 Classification. 
 
 638. Laboratory Exercises in Farm Me- 
 chanics for Agricultural Schools 
 
 643. Blackberry Culture. 
 
 652. The Sheep-Killing Dog. 
 
 654. How Farmers May Improvi; Their 
 Personal Credit. 
 
 655. Cottonseed JNIeal for Feeding Beef 
 Cattle. 
 The Community Egg Circle. 
 The True Clothes Moths. 
 .V Method of Analysing the Farm 
 
 Business. 
 Strawberry Growing in the South. 
 Foot and Mouth Disease. 
 Fiber Flax. 
 
 671. Harvest Mites, or "Chiggers." 
 
 672. The Agricultural Outlook. 
 Irrigation Practice in Rice Growing. 
 The Roundheaded Apple-Tree Borer. 
 Hard Clover Seed and Its Treatment 
 
 in Hulling. 
 
 Growing Hard Spring Wheat. 
 
 The Silverfish ; an Injurious House- 
 hold Insect. 
 
 356. 
 659. 
 
 661. 
 
 664. 
 666. 
 669. 
 
 673. 
 675. 
 676. 
 
 678. 
 681. 
 
 roENTIFIOATION OF FRUIT. 
 
 If there is, in your orchard, a tree bearing a strange variety of apples the 
 name of which you are anxious to learn, write to C. P. Close, Bureau of Plant 
 Industry, Washington. D. C, and ask him to mail you a few boxes for sending 
 fruit for identification. He will send you boxes in which the fruit may be sent 
 free of charge. There will be no charges for identificaticui. It will make 
 the identification easier if you send with the fruit a brief description of the 
 tree. 
 
 LIVE STOCK REGISTRY ASSOCIATIONS. 
 
 Write to the secretaries, whose names are given, for addresses 
 
 of reliable dealers nearest you. 
 
 HORSES. 
 
 AMERICAN THOROUGHBRED STUD BOOK, J. E. Wheeler, 173 Fifth Ave., 
 New York. 
 
 AMERICAN HACKNEY STUD BOOK, Wm. S. Webb, 51 E. 44th St., New York 
 
 NATIONAL REGISTRY OF MORGAN HORSES, Jos. Battell, Middlebury, Vt. 
 
 AMERICAN CLYDESDALE STUD BOOK, Charles F. Mills, Springfield, 111. 
 
 DOMINION CLYDESDALE STUD BOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 
 
 PERCHERON STUD BOOK OP AMERICA, S. D. Thompson, Wayne, III. 
 
 AMERICAN FRENCH COACH HORSE SOCIETY, S. D. Thompson, Wayne, III 
 
 AMERICAN SHIRE HORSE ASSOCIATION. Charles Burgess, Winona, 111. 
 
 AMERICAN TROTTING REGISTER ASSOCIATION, .1. H. Steiner. 3.55 Dear 
 born St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 AMERICAN JACK STUD BOOK, J. H. Felton, Grassland, Tenn. 
 
 AMERICAN BELGIAN DRAFT HORSE ASSOCIATION, J. D. Conner, Jr., 
 Wabash, Ind. 
 
 AMERICAN SADDLE HORSE BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, L B. Nail, Louis- 
 ville, Ky. 
 
 AMERICAN SUFFOLK PUNCH ASSOCIATION, Alex. Galbraith, Janesville, 
 Wis. 
 
 NATIONAL REGISTRY OP NORMAN HORSES, Theo. Butterworth, Quincy, 
 111. 
 
 (Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 
 
138 TEE FARMERS' GUIDEBOOK 
 
 LIVE STOCK REGISTKY ASSOCIATIONS— Continued. 
 
 CATTLE. 
 
 AI^JEEICAN ABERDEEN-ANGUS HEED BOOK, Thos. McFarlane, Harvey, 111. 
 
 AYRESHIRE RECORD, C. M. "Winslow, Brandon, Vt. 
 
 CANADIAN AYRESHIRE HERDBOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 
 
 AMERICAN GALLOWAY BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Frank B. Hearn, Inde- 
 pendence, Mo. 
 
 AMERICAN HEREFORD CATTLE BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, C. R. Thomas, 
 Independence, Mo. 
 
 DOMINION HEREFORD HERD BOOK, Henry Wade, Toronto, Can. 
 
 AMERICAN JERSEY CATTLE CLUB, R. M. Gow, 324 W. 23rd St., New York. 
 
 THE HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA, F. L. Houghton, 
 Brattleboro, Vt. 
 
 HOLSTEIN-FRIESIAN HERD BOOK OF CANADA, J. W. Clemons, St. George, 
 Can. 
 
 DUTCH BELTED HERD BOOK, H. B. Richards, Easton, Pa. 
 
 SWISS RECORD, "N. S. Fish, Groton, Conn. 
 
 AMERICAN DEVON RECORD, L. P. Sisson, Wheeling, W. Va. 
 
 RED POLLED HERD BOOK, J. McLain Smith, Dayton, O. 
 
 AMERICAN GUERNSEY CATTLE CLUB REGISTER, Wm. H. Caldwell, 
 Peterboro, N. H. 
 
 KERRY CATTLE, Henry S. Ambler, Chatham, N. Y. 
 
 (Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 
 
 SHEEP. 
 
 AMERICAN SHROPSHIRE SHEEP RECORD, Mortimer Levering, Lafayette, 
 Ind. 
 
 NATIONAL MERINO SHEEP REGISTRY ASSOCIATION, C. C. Johnson, 
 Cannonsburg, Pa. 
 
 REGISTER NEW YORK STATE AMERICAN MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' 
 ASSOCIATION, J. Horation Earll, Skaneateles, -N. Y. 
 
 REGISTER VERMONT MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Lewis 
 A. Skiff, Middlebury, Vt. 
 
 OHIO MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, Wesley Bishop, Troy- 
 ton, O. 
 
 AMERICAN LEICESTER RECORD, A. J. Temple, Cameron, 111. 
 
 NATIONAL DELAINE MERINO SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, John 
 C. McNary, Cannonsburg, Pa. 
 
 NATIONAL LINCOLN SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, H. A. Daniels, 
 
 Elva, Mich. 
 FLOCK RECORD HAMPSHIRE-DOWN SHEEP, J. I. Gordon, Mercer, Pa. 
 
 NATIONAL CHEVIOT SHEEP BREEDERS' ASSOCIATION, H. Keim, La- 
 doga, Ind. 
 AMERICAN COTSWOOL RECORD, Geo. Harding & Son, Waukesha, Ind. 
 AMERICAN RAMDOUILLET ASSOCIATION, E. V, Burnham, Woodstock, O. 
 AMERICAN SOUTHDOWN RECORD, Jno. J. Springer, Springfield, III. 
 (Addresses of other associations will be given on request.) 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 139 
 
 TABLE I. 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 
 
 Troy Weight. 
 
 24 grains J. pwt. 
 
 20 pwt 1 ounce 
 
 12 ounces 1 pound 
 
 Used for weighing gold, silver, and 
 jewels. 
 
 Apothecaries' Weight. 
 20 grains 1 scruple 
 
 3 scruples 1 dram 
 
 8 drams 1 ounce 
 
 12 ounces 1 pound 
 
 The ounce and jiouud in this are 
 the same as in Troy Weight. 
 
 Avoirdupois Weight. 
 
 ' 27ii grains 1 dram 
 
 ■' ' 16 drams 1 ounce 
 
 16 ounces 1 pound 
 
 25 pounds 1 quarter 
 
 4 quarters .... 1 cwt. 
 
 2,000 pounds 1 short ton 
 
 2,240 pounds 1 long ton 
 
 Dry Measure. 
 
 2 pints 1 quart 
 
 8 quarts 1 peck 
 
 4 pecks 1 bushel 
 
 36 bushels 1 chaldron 
 
 Licntid Measure. 
 
 4 gills 1 pint 
 
 2 pints 1 quart 
 
 4 quarts U gallon 
 
 31% gallons 1 barrel 
 
 2 barrels 1 hogshead 
 
 Square Measure. 
 
 144 square inches .1 sq. foot 
 
 9 square feet ... 1 sq. yard 
 
 30^/4 square yards .1 sq. rod 
 
 40 square rods ... 1 rood 
 
 4 roods 1 acre 
 
 640 acres 1 sq. mile 
 
 USED IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 Long Measure. 
 
 12 inches 1 foot 
 
 3 feet 1 yard 
 
 5% yards 1 rod 
 
 40 rods 1 furlong 
 
 8 furlongs 1 statute nak 
 
 3 miles 1 league 
 
 Paper Measure. 
 
 24 sheets 1 quire 
 
 20 quires 1 ream (480 
 
 sheets) 
 
 2 reams 1 bundle 
 
 5 bundles 1 bale 
 
 Surveyors' Measure. 
 
 7.92 inches 1 link 
 
 25 links 1 rod 
 
 4 rods 1 chain 
 
 10 sq. chains or 
 
 1()0 sq. rods 1 acre 
 
 640 acres 1 sq. mile 
 
 36 sq. miles (6 
 
 miles square) ... 1 township 
 
 Cubic Measure. 
 
 1,728 
 
 27 
 
 128 
 
 40 
 
 cubic in. 
 
 cubic ft. 
 
 cubic ft. 
 
 cubic ft. 
 
 2,150.42 cubic in. 
 
 231 cubic in. 
 
 1 cubic ft. 
 
 . . 1 cubic foot 
 
 . . 1 cubic yard 
 
 . . 1 cord (wood) 
 
 . .1 ton (shipping) 
 
 . . 1 standard bu. 
 
 . . 1 standard gal. 
 . . about % bu. 
 
 Mariner's Measure. 
 
 6 feet 1 fathom 
 
 120 fathoms 1 cable length 
 
 7% cable lengths 1 mile 
 
 5,280 feet 1 statute mile 
 
 6,085 feet 1 nautical mile 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 3 inches 1 palm 
 
 4 inches 1 hand 
 
 6 inches 1 span 
 
 18 inches 1 cubit 
 
 21.8 inches 1 Bible cubit 
 
 2.5 feet 1 military pace 
 
140 
 
 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 TABLE II. 
 
 AVERAGE PERIOD OF INCUBATION. 
 
 Canary birds 14 days 
 
 Ducks 28 days 
 
 Geese 30 days 
 
 Guinea 28 days 
 
 Hens 21 days 
 
 Pea fowls 29 days 
 
 Pheasants 25 days 
 
 Pigeons 18 days 
 
 Turkeys 28 
 
 AVERAGE PERIOD OF GESTATION 
 
 Ass 12 months 
 
 Bitch f> weeks 
 
 Camel 12 months 
 
 Cat 8 weeks 
 
 Cow 9 months 
 
 Dog and fox 2 months 
 
 Elephant 2 years 
 
 Goat 5 months 
 
 Guinea pig 65 days 
 
 Mare 11 months 
 
 Pig 314 months 
 
 Rabbit 30 days 
 
 Rat and squirrel 28 days 
 
 Sheep 5 months 
 
 AVERAGE LIFE OF ANIMALS. 
 
 Camel 100 years 
 
 Cat 15 years 
 
 Cow 20 years 
 
 Deer 20 years 
 
 Dog 10 years 
 
 Fox 15 years 
 
 Horse 20 years 
 
 Rabbit 7 years 
 
 Sheep 10 years 
 
 Swine 20 years 
 
 TABLE III 
 
 NUMBER OF YEARS SEEDS RETAIN THEIR VITALIT"? 
 
 Barley 3 
 
 Beans 5 
 
 Beet 6 
 
 Buckwheat 2 
 
 Cabbage 5 
 
 Carrot •! 
 
 Celery 8 
 
 Clover 3 
 
 Corn 2 
 
 Cucumbers 6 
 
 Eggplant 6 
 
 Flax 2 
 
 Hop 2 
 
 Lettuce 5 
 
 Millet 2 
 
 Muskmelon 5 
 
 Mustard 3 
 
 Oats 3 
 
 Onions . , 2 
 
 Orchard grass 2 
 
 Parsnip 1 
 
 Peanut 1 
 
 Peas 3 
 
 Pumpkin 5 
 
 Radish 5 
 
 Rape 5 
 
 Rye 2 
 
 Salsify 2 
 
 Soy-beans 2 
 
 Squash 6 
 
 Timothy 2 
 
 Turnip 5 
 
 Watermelon 6 
 
 Wheat 2 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 141 
 
 TABLE III— Continued. 
 
 AMOUNT OF SEED PER ACRE. 
 
 Alfalfa (boardcast) 20-30 lbs. 
 
 Alfalfa (drilled) 15-20 lbs. 
 
 Barley 8-10 pks. 
 
 Beans (small) 2-3 pks. 
 
 Blue-grass (sown alone) . 25 Ibt--. 
 
 Brome grass (sown alone) 12-20 lbs. 
 
 Buckwheat 3-5 pks. 
 
 Cabbage %■ 1 lb. 
 
 Carrot (for stock) 4- (5 lbs. 
 
 Clover (alsike alone) .... 8-15 lbs. 
 
 Clover (red alone) 10-18 lbs. 
 
 Corn (for ears) 6-8 qts. 
 
 Corn (for silage) 9-11 qts. 
 
 Cowpea 1-1 V^ bu. 
 
 Crimson clover (alone) . . 12-15 lbs. 
 
 Flax 2-4 pks. 
 
 Mangels 5-8 lbs. 
 
 Millet 1-3 pks. 
 
 Oats 
 
 Potatoes (cut) 
 
 Potatoes (whole) . . 
 
 Pumpkin 
 
 Rape 
 
 Red-top 
 
 Eutabaga 
 
 Rye 
 
 Sugar beets 
 
 Sweet clover 
 
 Timothy 
 
 Timothy and Clover- 
 Timothy 
 
 Clover 
 
 Turnip (broadcast) . 
 
 Vetch (hairy) 1 bu. - 
 small grain. 
 
 Wheat 
 
 2- 3 bus. 
 8 bus. 
 
 12 bus. 
 
 4 lbs. 
 
 , 2- 8 lbs. 
 
 , 12-15 lbs. 
 
 3- 5 lbs. 
 3- 8 pks. 
 
 . 15-20 lbs. 
 
 2- 4 pks. 
 
 . 10-20 lbs. 
 
 . 10-15 lbs. 
 . 4-10 lbs. 
 . 2- 4 lbs. 
 bu. 
 
 . 6- 9 pks. 
 
 TABLE IV. 
 
 NUMBER OF PLANTS PER ACRE AT VARIOUS DISTANCES. 
 
 Distance 
 
 
 Distance 
 
 
 Distance 
 
 
 Distance 
 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Plants. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Plants. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Plants. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Plants, 
 
 Ix 1 
 
 6,272,640 
 
 10x48 
 
 13,068 
 
 4x 
 
 5 
 
 2,178 
 
 9x10 
 
 484 
 
 Ix 3 
 
 2,090,880 
 
 15x15 
 
 27,878 
 
 4x 
 
 6 
 
 1,815 
 
 9x11 
 
 440 
 
 Ix 4 
 
 1,568,160 
 
 15x30 
 
 13,939 
 
 4x 
 
 7 
 
 1,556 
 
 9x12 
 
 403 
 
 Ix 5 
 
 1,254,528 
 
 15x36 
 
 11,616 
 
 5x 
 
 5 
 
 1,742 
 
 10x10 
 
 435 
 
 2x 2 
 
 1,568,160 
 
 18x36 
 
 9,680 
 
 5x 
 
 6 
 
 1,452 
 
 10x12 
 
 363 
 
 2x 3 
 
 1,045,440 
 
 18x48 
 
 7,260 
 
 5x 
 
 7 
 
 1,244 
 
 10x15 
 
 290 
 
 2x 4 
 
 784,080 
 
 
 
 5x 
 
 8 
 
 1,089 
 
 10x18 
 
 242 
 
 2x 5 
 
 627,264 
 
 Feet. 
 
 
 5x 
 
 9 
 
 968 
 
 10x20 
 
 217 
 
 3x 3 
 
 696,960 
 
 Ix 1 
 
 43,560 
 
 6x 
 
 6 
 
 1,210 
 
 12x12 
 
 302 
 
 3x 4 
 
 522,720 
 
 Ix 2 
 
 21,780 
 
 6x 
 
 7 
 
 1,037 
 
 12x15 
 
 242 
 
 3x 5 
 
 418,176 
 
 Ix 3 
 
 14,520 
 
 6x 
 
 8 
 
 907 
 
 12x20 
 
 181 
 
 4x 4 
 
 392,040 
 
 Ix 4 
 
 10,890 
 
 6x 
 
 9 
 
 806 
 
 15x15 
 
 193 
 
 4x 5 
 
 313,632 
 
 Ix 5 
 
 8,712 
 
 6x10 
 
 726 
 
 15x18 
 
 161 
 
 5x 5 
 
 250,905 
 
 2x 2 
 
 10,890 
 
 7x 
 
 7 
 
 888 
 
 15x20 
 
 145 
 
 6x 6 
 
 174,240 
 
 2x 3 
 
 7,260 
 
 7x 
 
 8 
 
 777 
 
 18x18 
 
 134 
 
 7x 7 
 
 128,013 
 
 2x 4 
 
 5,445 
 
 7x 
 
 9 
 
 691 
 
 18x20 
 
 121 
 
 8x 8 
 
 98,010 
 
 2x 5 
 
 4,356 
 
 7x: 
 
 10 
 
 622 
 
 18x24 
 
 100 
 
 9x 9 
 
 77,440 
 
 3x 3 
 
 4,840 
 
 8x 
 
 8 
 
 680 
 
 20x20 
 
 108 
 
 10x10 
 
 62,726 
 
 3x 4 
 
 3,630 
 
 8x 
 
 9 
 
 605 
 
 20x24 
 
 90 
 
 10x20 
 
 31,363 
 
 3x 5 
 
 2,904 
 
 8x10 
 
 544 
 
 20x30 
 
 72 
 
 10x24 
 
 26,136 
 
 3x 6 
 
 2,420 
 
 8x11 
 
 495 
 
 30xf3 
 
 60 
 
 10x30 
 
 20,908 
 
 3x 7 
 
 2,074 
 
 8x 
 
 12 
 
 453 
 
 30x30 
 
 48 
 
 10x36 
 
 16,424 
 
 4x 4 
 
 2,722 
 
 9x 
 
 9 
 
 537 
 
 30x36 
 
 40 
 
142 
 
 TEE F ARM E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 TABLE V. 
 
 AVERAGE PERCENTAGE COMPOSITION OF FERTILIZER INGREDIENTS 
 
 Containing: 
 Ingredients. Nitrogen or Phosphoric Potash 
 
 Fumisliing Nitrogen PrincipaUy: Ammonia Acid 
 
 Sulphate of Ammonia, 98 per cent 20. 24. 
 
 Nitrate of Soda, 97 per cent 16. 
 
 Dried Blood 13 . 
 
 Fish Scrap 8.2 
 
 Tankage 7.4 
 
 Azotin 12 . 3 
 
 Cotton Seed Meal 7 . 
 
 Furnishing Potash Principally: 
 
 Kainit 
 
 Sylvinit 
 
 Sulphate of Potash, High Grade (96 per 
 
 cent. ) 
 
 Sulphate of Potash, Magnesia 
 
 (Double Manure Salt) 
 
 Muriate of Potash 
 
 Wood Ashes (Hardwood, TJnleached) 
 
 Cotton Seed Hull Ashes 
 
 Tobacco Stems 
 
 Furnishing Phosphoric Acid Principally: 
 
 Acid Phospate 
 
 Dissolved Bone 
 
 Bone Meal 
 
 Bone Black 
 
 Bone Ash 
 
 Dissolved Bone Black 
 
 19. 
 
 
 
 16. 
 
 5. 
 
 
 10. 
 
 8.t 
 
 
 9. 
 
 15. 
 
 11. t 
 
 7. 
 
 
 8.50 
 
 2.5* 
 
 1. 
 
 12. 
 
 17. 
 
 52. 
 
 27. 
 
 50. 
 
 
 2. 
 
 5. 
 
 
 9. 
 
 23. 
 
 1.80 
 
 .75 
 
 10-14* 
 
 5. 
 
 2. 
 
 14.* 
 
 
 4. 
 
 23. t 
 28. 
 35. 
 16.* 
 
 
 * Available Phosphoric Acid. 
 
 t Contains 4 per cent. Available Phosphoric Acid. 
 t Contains about 10 per cent. Available Phosphoric Acid. 
 ** Contains about 33 per cent, of Lime. 
 
 TABLE VI. 
 
 THE AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZER 
 and Nitrogen) PER ACRE 
 
 Crop Yield i 
 
 Apples 15 tons 
 
 Barley 30 bu. 
 
 Beans 30 " 
 
 Buckwheat 34 " 
 
 Cabbage 30 tone 
 
 Clover, green* 
 
 Clover, dry 
 
 Corn 70 bu. 
 
 Grapes 2 tons 
 
 Hops 600 lbs. 
 
 Mixed Hay 
 
 Oats 60 bu. 
 
 Onions 45,000 lbs. 
 
 Pears 16 tons 
 
 Peas 30 bu. 
 
 Plums 8 tons 
 
 INGREDIENTS (Potash, Phosphoric Acid 
 USED BY DIFFERENT CROPS, 
 
 
 
 Phosphoric 
 
 
 traw, Etc. 
 
 Potash 
 
 Acid 
 
 Nitrogen 
 
 
 60 lbs. 
 
 30 lbs. 39 
 
 lbs. 
 
 2,000 lbs. 
 
 51 " 
 
 17 ' 
 
 57 
 
 
 2,700 " 
 
 53 " 
 
 30 " 
 
 75 
 
 
 2,800 " 
 
 40 " 
 
 14 ' 
 
 56 
 
 
 
 270 " 
 
 70 ' 
 
 200 
 
 
 15 tons 
 
 140 " 
 
 40 ' 
 
 130 
 
 
 2 " 
 
 88 " 
 
 18 ' 
 
 82 
 
 
 6,000 lbs. 
 
 55 " 
 
 48 ' 
 
 83 
 
 
 7,000 '' 
 
 39 " 
 
 11 ' 
 
 32 
 
 
 2,700 " 
 
 53 " 
 
 23 ' 
 
 84 
 
 
 5,000 " 
 
 77 " 
 
 18 ' 
 
 70 
 
 
 3,200 " 
 
 62 " 
 
 22 ' 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 72 " 
 
 37 ' 
 
 ' 72 
 
 
 
 26 " 
 
 10 ' 
 
 32 
 
 
 3,000 lbs. 
 
 52 " 
 
 33 ' 
 
 108 
 
 
 
 
 40 " 
 
 4 ' 
 
 30 
 
 

 Phosphoric 
 
 Potash 
 
 Acid 
 
 Nitrogen 
 
 74 " 
 
 21 ' 
 
 46 " 
 
 45 " 
 
 26 ' 
 
 51 " 
 
 143 " 
 
 32 ' 
 
 69 " 
 
 94 " 
 
 23 ' 
 
 89 " 
 
 200 " 
 
 16 ' 
 
 76 " 
 
 54 " 
 
 20 ' 
 
 32 " 
 
 180 " 
 
 52 ' 
 
 80 " 
 
 31 " 
 
 24 ' 
 
 59 " 
 
 USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 143 
 
 TABLE VI— Continued. 
 
 Crop Yield Straw, Etc. 
 
 Potatoes 200 bu. 1,500 lbs. 
 
 Rye 30 " 4.250 " 
 
 Sugar Beets 15 tons 6,000 ' ' 
 
 Timothy Hay -i.'iOO " 
 
 Tobacco 1,600 lbs. 1,400 " 
 
 Tomatoes 10 tons 
 
 Turnips 700 bu. 5 tons 
 
 Wheat 35 " 3,000 lbs. 
 
 ** Contains about 83 per cent, of Lime. 
 
 TABLE VII. 
 
 AMOUNT OF FERTLLIZING VALUE IN 1,000 POUNDS OF THE VARIOUS 
 FARM PRODUCTS AND FOOD STUFFS. 
 
 Phosphoric 
 
 Name of Feed Nitroijon Acid Potash 
 
 (N) (P.O,) (K,0) 
 
 Alfalfa, green 7.7 1.3 5.6 
 
 Alfalfa, hay 26.1 6.1 17.9 
 
 Alsike (in bloom), green 6.2 1.1 2.0 
 
 Beets, sugar 2.9 0.8 3.7 
 
 Brewers' grains (dried) 40.0 16.1 2.0 
 
 Canada pea meal 32.3 8.2 9.9 
 
 Cotton seed meal 72.5 30.4 15.8 
 
 Corn ensilage 4.3 1.1 3.7 
 
 Corn fodder, green 2.9 1.1 3.9 
 
 Cornmeal (all) 14.7 6.3 4.7 
 
 Corn stalks with ears 7.2 5.4 8.9 
 
 Corn stalks without ears 6.1 3.8 10.9 
 
 Corn and cob meal 13.6 5.7 4.7 
 
 Cow peas, green 3.8 1.3 4.6 
 
 Crimson clover, hay 24.3 4.0 13.1 
 
 Dried beet pulp 12.9 2.2 3.1 
 
 Gluten meal 54.8 3.3 0.5 
 
 Kentucky blue grass, hay 12.5 4.0 15.7 
 
 Linseed meal (old process) 54.2 16.6 13.7 
 
 Malt sprouts 42.1 17.4 19.9 
 
 Mangels 2.2 0.9 3.8 
 
 Oats 18.2 7.8 4.8 
 
 Oat forage, in bloom, green 2.6 1.3 3.8 
 
 Oat straw 5.8 3.0 17.7 
 
 Peas and oats, green 3.8 1.5 5.0 
 
 Red clover, green 7.0 1.5 4.8 
 
 Red clover, hay 19.7 5.5 18.7 
 
 Red top, hay 12.6 3.6 10.2 
 
 Ruta-bagas 1.9 1.2 4.9 
 
 Rye 18.1 8.6 5.8 
 
 Timothy, green 5.0 2.6 7.6 
 
 Timothy, hay 9.4 3.3 14.2 
 
 Wheat 19.0 5.5 8.7 
 
 Wheat bran (winter) 25.1 26.9 15.2 
 
 Wheat middlings 27.0 26.3 15.3 
 
144 
 
 THE F A R M E E 8' G VIDE BOO K 
 
 Hi 
 
 SBOtJ 
 SUOIUQ 
 
 e;80 
 
 eiatq 
 1B8I\[ uaoQ 
 
 j^a III luoQ 
 
 UJ03 
 paag jaAoto 
 ^BaqAijpng 
 
 paag 
 suBog 
 A'aiJBg 
 ea^ddy 
 
 oooocc ocoooc 
 
 o c c o c o o 
 
 1X3 "» ^ 'X) to ^5 to 
 
 'o -j: CD CO '^ tc to 
 ira ira lo LO lo Lo lo 
 
 CC50tOtD(X)iX)i»?D<»«00 
 
 lo in- lo lo lo kra »o lo in ic iic 
 
 o o o c o c 
 
 <C 5C to ^ IX; CO 
 
 o to o <o o 
 to lo to to to 
 
 to to to 
 
 • o • • • -o ■ • .oooo 
 
 •lO • • • -lO ■ .lOlOlOlO 
 
 C' C ■ • C • • o - o o 
 
 OC (^ • • Ot: ■ -00 • 00 CC 
 
 00 to • GC' • C' ■ 00 «, • • 00 CJ' ■ C' o 
 
 O OO C O 00 
 
 t~ to t^ i~ to 
 
 tOtO-* — 'MtOtOtDtEtCtOtOtOtOtCtOtOtCtO 
 
 lo to Lo ITT' lo lit' lo »o lo lo lo »o lo lo lo »o lo ire o 
 
 o o o o o o 
 
 to to to to to to 
 
 '^ "^ "^ ^^ ^^ 
 
 O O o o o 
 to to to to to 
 
 O0b-00o000000000t~0000 
 
 r— ^ S "^ S 
 
 " rt o S ■ 
 
 ?? a 
 
 ~ o cS 03 3 'l^ en 
 
 g « ^ 3 bfi CS O "S 
 
 c3 '^H 
 
 .2 «* 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 eS 
 
 
 Tl 
 
 p 
 
 M 
 
 C 
 
 
 
 
 ,« 
 
 CJ 
 
 
 
 ct: 
 
 t) 
 
 12 
 
 .i-« 
 
 <u 
 
 
 crt 
 
 -♦^ 
 
 
 C 
 
 >, 
 
 tn 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 0) 
 
 n 
 
 « 
 
 a 
 
 rt 
 
 t« 9 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 
 
 145 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 OOoOOO -oooooo 
 f£> ^ to (O ^ (O . to to <o to fO to 
 
 OOOOOOOOOO 
 
 to^oto'-o^ototo^^o^ 
 
 (M CI W 01 O <M (M Ol O] C) CI CM 01 
 
 OO CO 
 
 00 o o o o 
 -+< 'O lO lo lO 
 
 lo lo lo i.o lo ko lo iQ Lo ic> lo »o in 
 
 -^OOOOC'OOO 
 tOtOtotO^^OtotO^O 
 
 C C' O O O CI o o 
 
 O 00 O CI O CI C-l 00 or. 
 
 CJ C CI 00 CI CI CI o 
 
 tj^jg 
 
 pass ^ 
 
 O O O C5 O 
 to fO to fCl to 
 
 000000000000«5h-00 
 
 9* .rt cs 
 
 .;5 o 
 
 to ai 
 CO tc 
 
 
 3 ^ & & ^ 
 
 o O fi 
 
 te '^ .S -5 
 
 > » c3 =S 
 
 -r '^ o ft 
 
 O CO <I^ r- rH 
 
 be fl 
 
 ID OJiDaiOoj^ 
 
 ,S ^ j3 « <n 
 
 rt t3 g 
 
 ■ST3?>«2?l=?iM-- 
 
 g§S^^;^^^^000(i:K(gcgHH>^ 
 
 3 
 
 ^ 
 
 _« 
 
 2 
 
 > 
 
 .S 
 
 O 
 o 
 
 ;-H 
 
 rt 
 
 <a 
 
 
 f> 
 
 ^^^ 
 
146 
 
 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 TABLE IX. 
 
 DIGESTIBLE NUTRIENTS IN 100 POUNDS OF VARIOUS FEEDING 
 
 STUFFS\ 
 
 Kind of Feed Total Dry 
 
 Matter 
 
 Alfalfa, green 28 . 2 
 
 Alfalfa hay 91.6 
 
 Apples 19.0 
 
 Apple pomace 23.3 
 
 Barley, grain 89.1 
 
 Bean straw 95.0 
 
 Beet, mangel 9.1 
 
 Beet, sugar 13 . 5 
 
 Blood, dried 91.5 
 
 Brewers' grains, dry 91.8 
 
 Brewers ' grains, wet 24.3 
 
 Buckwheat bran 89.5 
 
 Buckwheat, grain 87.4 
 
 Buckwheat middlings 87.3 
 
 Cabbage 15.3 
 
 Carrot 11-4 
 
 Clover (red), green 29.2 
 
 Clover (red), hay 84.7 
 
 Corn-aud-cob meal 84 . 9 
 
 Corn fodder, green 20 . 7 
 
 Corn fodder, dry 57.8 
 
 Corn, grain 89 . 1 
 
 Corn silage 20.9 
 
 Corn stover 59.5 
 
 Cottonseed meal 91.8 
 
 Cowpeas 85.2 
 
 Gluten meal 91.8 
 
 Hominy chops 88.9 
 
 Hungarian hay 92 . 3 
 
 Linseed meal (new process) . .) 89.9 
 
 Linseed meal (old process ... 90.8 
 
 Malt sprouts 89.8 
 
 Milk, cows ' 12.8 
 
 Skim-milk, centrifugal 9.4 
 
 Skim-milk, gravity 9.6 
 
 Buttermilk. 9.9 
 
 Whey 6.6 
 
 Hay of mixed grasses 87. 1 
 
 Oat straw 90.8 
 
 Oats, grain 89 . 
 
 Peas, grain 89 . 5 
 
 Peas-and-barley, green 16.0 
 
 Peas-and-oats, green 16.0 
 
 Pea- vine straw 86 .4 
 
 Pea-vine silage 27.0 
 
 Potatoes 21.1 
 
 Pumpkin, field 19 . 1 
 
 Eye, grain 88 . 4 
 
 Rye bran 88.4 
 
 Rye straw 92.9 
 
 Soy-bean 89.2 
 
 Sugar-beet leaves 12.0 
 
 Sugar-beet molasses 79.2 
 
 Pounds of Digestible Ni 
 
 utrients 
 
 
 
 Carbo- 
 
 
 
 Protein 
 
 hydrates 
 
 Total 
 
 Nutritive 
 
 + 
 
 (fat X 2.25) 
 
 
 . Ratio 
 
 3.9 
 
 13.8 
 
 17.7 
 
 1: 3.5 
 
 11.0 
 
 42.3 
 
 53.3 
 
 1: 3.8 
 
 .7 
 
 18.8 
 
 19.5 
 
 1:26.8 
 
 1.1 
 
 16.4 
 
 17.5 
 
 1:14.9 
 
 8.7 
 
 69.1 
 
 77.8 
 
 1: 7.9 
 
 3.6 
 
 39.7 
 
 43.3 
 
 1:11.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 5.6 
 
 6.7 
 
 1: 5.1 
 
 1.1 
 
 10.4 
 
 11.5 
 
 1: 9.4 
 
 52.3 
 
 5.6 
 
 57.9 
 
 1: 0.1 
 
 15.7 
 
 47.8 
 
 63.5 
 
 1: 3.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 12.5 
 
 16.4 
 
 1: 3.2 
 
 7.4 
 
 34.7 
 
 42.1 
 
 1: 4.7 
 
 7.7 
 
 53.3 
 
 61. U 
 
 1: 6.9 
 
 22.0 
 
 45.6 
 
 67 . 6 
 
 1: 2. J 
 
 1.8 
 
 9.1 
 
 10.9 
 
 1: 5.1 
 
 .8 
 
 8.3 
 
 9.1 
 
 1:10.4 
 
 2.9 
 
 16.4 
 
 19.3 
 
 1: 5.7 
 
 6.8 
 
 39.6 
 
 46.4 
 
 1: 5.8 
 
 4.4 
 
 66.5 
 
 70.9 
 
 1:15.1 
 
 1.0 
 
 12.5 
 
 13.5 
 
 1:12.5 
 
 2.5 
 
 37 . 3 
 
 39 . 8 
 
 1:14.9 
 
 7.9 
 
 76.4 
 
 84.3 
 
 1: 9.7 
 
 .9 
 
 12.9 
 
 13.8 
 
 1:14.3 
 
 1.7 
 
 34 . 
 
 35 . 7 
 
 1:20.0 
 
 37.2 
 
 44.4 
 
 81.6 
 
 1: 1.2 
 
 18.3 
 
 56.7 
 
 75.0 
 
 1: 3.1 
 
 25.8 
 
 68.1 
 
 93.9 
 
 1: 2.6 
 
 7.5 
 
 70 . .1 
 
 78.0 
 
 1: 9 4 
 
 4.5 
 
 54.6 
 
 59.1 
 
 1:12.1 
 
 28.2 
 
 46.4 
 
 74. (i 
 
 1: 1.6 
 
 29.3 
 
 48 . 5 
 
 77. S 
 
 1: 1.7 
 
 18.6 
 
 40.9 
 
 59.5 
 
 1: 2.2 
 
 3.6 
 
 13.2 
 
 16.8 
 
 1: 3.7 
 
 2.9 
 
 5.9 
 
 8.8 
 
 1: 2.0 
 
 3.1 
 
 6.5 
 
 9.6 
 
 1: 2.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 6.5 
 
 10.4 
 
 1: 1.7 
 
 0.8 
 
 5.4 
 
 6.2 
 
 1: 6.8 
 
 5.9 
 
 43.6 
 
 49.5 
 
 1: 7.4 
 
 1.2 
 
 40.4 
 
 41.6 
 
 1:33.7 
 
 9.2 
 
 56.8 
 
 66.0 
 
 1: 6.2 
 
 16.8 
 
 53.4 
 
 70 . 2 
 
 1: 3.2 
 
 1.7 
 
 7.7 
 
 9.4 
 
 1: 4.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 7.6 
 
 9.4 
 
 1: 4.2 
 
 4.3 
 
 34.1 
 
 38.4 
 
 1: 7.n 
 
 2.5 
 
 14.1 
 
 16.6 
 
 1: 5.6 
 
 .9 
 
 16.5 
 
 17.4 
 
 1:18.3 
 
 1.4 
 
 6.5 
 
 7.9 
 
 1: 4.6 
 
 9.9 
 
 70.1 
 
 80.0 
 
 1: 7.1 
 
 11.5 
 
 54.8 
 
 66.3 
 
 1: 4.8 
 
 .6 
 
 41.5 
 
 42.1 
 
 1:69.2 
 
 29.6 
 
 54.7 
 
 84.3 
 
 1: 1.8 
 
 1.7 
 
 5.1 
 
 6.8 
 
 1: 3.0 
 
 9.1 
 
 59.5 
 
 68.6 
 
 1: 6.5 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 147 
 
 TABLE IX— Continued. 
 
 Pounds of Digestible Nutrients 
 Carbo- 
 
 Kind of Feed Total Dry Protein hydrates Total Nutritive 
 
 Matter -f- (fat X 2.25) Ratio 
 
 Sugar-beet pulp 10.2 .6 7. .3 7.9 1:12.2 
 
 Timothy hay 86.8 2.8 46.6 49.4 1:16.6 
 
 Turnip,flat 9.5 1.0 7.7 8.7 1:7.7 
 
 Wheat,grain 89.5 10.2 73.0 83.2 1:7.2 
 
 Wheatbran 88.1 12.2 45.3 ,57.5 1:3.7 
 
 Wheat middlings 87.9 12.8 60.7 73.5 1:4.7 
 
 Wheat straw 90.4 .4 37.2 37.6 1:93.0 
 
 ^Adapted from H'enr\'s Feed.s and Feeding. 
 
 TABLE X. 
 
 USEFUL RULES. 
 
 TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BUSHELS IN A BIN. 
 
 Multiply the product of the length, breadth and thickness, in feet, by 
 45/56. 
 
 TO MEASURE LUMBER. 
 
 Multiply together the number of pieces, the width and thickness in inches, 
 the length in feet and divide the product by 12. 
 
 TO FIND THE NUMBER OF TONS OF HAY IN A BAY. 
 
 From the top down 400 cubic feet will make a ton. Multiply length, breadth 
 and thickness in feet together and divide by 400. After the hay has settled 
 several months, the part of the mow ten feet below the surface will average a 
 ton to 270 cubic feet. If clover hay, increase bulk by one-tenth. 
 
 TO FIND THE NUMBER OF TONS IN A STACK. 
 Multiply the length in feet by the width in feet, this product by one-half 
 the height, and divide by 300. If a round stack,- multiply the area of the 
 base by one-half the height and diviile by 300. 
 
 TO FIND THE NUMBER OF BUSHELS OF CORN IN A CRIB. 
 Allow 2^4 cubic feet for a bushel of corn on the cob. It requires two 
 bushels of ear corn to make one bushel of shelled corn. 
 
 HOW TO FIND THE AREA OP A CIRCLE. 
 Square the diameter (multiply it by itself) and multiply by .7854. 
 
 TO FIND THE CAPACITY OF A WATERING TROUGH. 
 Multiply the length, width and depth in feet together and divide the prod- 
 uct by 4. The result will be the contents in barrels of 31Vj gallons each. 
 
 TO FIND THE CONTENTS OF A ROUND TANK. 
 Multiply the s,quare of the diameter in feet by the depth in feet and the 
 result by 6. The result is the approximate contents of the tank in gallons. 
 
148 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 FUNGICIDES AND INSECTICIDES. 
 
 Many of these preparations may be purchased of local dealers ; but 
 if large quantities are to be used, it will be cheaper to make your own. 
 
 Lime-Sulphur. 
 For the San Jose Scale and to Prevent Disease. 
 
 Flowers of sulphur 15 pounds 
 
 Quick lime 15 pounds 
 
 Water 50 gallons 
 
 Slake the lime and mix it with sulphur, adding water enough to 
 make a soft paste. Add 10 gallons of water and boil for about an hour, 
 or until the mixture is well dissolved. Then add water to make 50 
 gallons and use while warm. This will prevent peach leaf curl. 
 
 Commercial lime-sulphur should be diluted with nine to ten times 
 its bulk of water. 
 
 Self-Boiled Lime- Sulphur. 
 P^or Cherries, Pears and Peaches. 
 
 Fresh burned lime 8 pounds 
 
 Flowers of sulphur 8 pounds 
 
 Water 50 gallons 
 
 Place lime in a barrel and add a little water. As soon as it begins 
 to slake add the sulphur. Keep stirring constantly and adding water 
 until the mixture reaches the consistency of a thin paste. The lime 
 will generate enough heat to boil several minutes. When the lime is 
 well slaked, add water to cool the mixture and prevent further cook- 
 ing. When cool strain through a 20-mesh sieve, forcing the sulphur 
 through, but keeping out the chunks of lime. Dilute to 50 gallons. This 
 is used as a summer spray. It is said to prevent brown rot in peaches. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture. 
 For All Fungus Diseases. 
 
 Copper sulphate (blue vitriol) 5 pounds 
 
 Unslaked lime 5 pounds 
 
 Water • . . . 50 gallons 
 
 Place the copper sulphate in a gunny sack, or tie in cheese cloth, 
 and hang in twenty gallons of water in such a way that the bottom of 
 the sack will rest on top of the water. This will permit the air to 
 come in contact with the vitriol and help to dissolve it. Pour about 
 three gallons of hot water on the lime and stir until it is thoroughly 
 slaked. Strain this through a cheese cloth into the water containing 
 the dissolved sulphate and add water to make fifty gallons. This is 
 what is known as the 5-5-50 solution and is used on apple trees in the 
 spring before the buds start. The two solutions should not be mixed 
 until used, and one must always be very dilute when they are mixed. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RlJLEt< FOR FARMING 149 
 
 Often what is known as "stock solutions" are made by dissolving 
 the lime and sulphate separately at the rate of one pound to each 
 gallon of water. When needed one gallon each of the solution is taken 
 for each ten gallons of water to be used. 
 
 Care should be taken that enough lime is used. A test may be 
 made by dissolving a little potassium ferrocyanide in water and 
 pouring a few drops into the Bordeaux mixture. If enough lime is 
 present, the color will remain yellow, if more is needed the color will 
 change to a brick red. 
 
 Dry Paris Green. 
 To Kill Potato Bugs. 
 
 Paris green 1 pound 
 
 Hydrated lime 20 pounds 
 
 This may be used for dusting potatoes when it is not convenient 
 to spray. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion. 
 
 Hard soap 1/2 pound 
 
 Rain water 1 gallon 
 
 Kerosene (coal oil) 2 gallons 
 
 Shave the soap, dissolve in hot water and add to the oil while hot, 
 away from the fire. Churn with a pump for 5 minutes, or until the 
 mixture increases from one-third to one-half its bulk and assumes the 
 consistency of cream. 
 
 For plant lice and other soft-bodied insects dilute with 15 parts 
 of water. For the red spider and other plant mites dilute the same 
 and add 1 ounce of flowers of sulphur to the gallon. Apply with a 
 spray pump and do not dilute until used. 
 
 Tobacco Solution. 
 For Plant Lice. 
 
 One pound of tobacco stems to about a gallon of water soaked 
 over night, or one part of "Black leaf" extract to 40 parts of water. 
 
 Poisoned Bait. 
 For Cut Worms or Army Worms. 
 
 Paris green 1/, pound 
 
 Bran 25 pounds 
 
 Water 2 gallons 
 
 Cheap Molasses IVo quarts 
 
 If necessary, add water to make the mixture moist throughout, 
 but not sloppy. Scatter in little fingerfuls on ground infested by 
 worms. Do not put it where the hens can get it. 
 
150 THE F ARM E U 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Hellehore. 
 For Currant and Gooseberry Worms. 
 
 Fresh white hellebore 6 ounces 
 
 Water 3 gallons 
 
 Apply with a spray pump. If for dry application. 1 part of the 
 hellebore may be used to 5 of hydrated lime. 
 
 For Cahhage Worms. 
 
 Sift rye flour on the plants in the morning while the dew is on. 
 Good commercial preparations to use are, "Slug Shot" and "Bug 
 Death, ' ' sold at most drug stores and seed houses. 
 
 Tarred Seed Corn. 
 
 To Prevent Crows and Blackbirds from Pulling Up. 
 Put the corn into a pail and pour on enough warm water to cover 
 it. Add a tablespoonful of tar to the peck, and stir thoroughly. Place 
 the corn on a sieve or in a basket to drain and then stir in a few 
 handfuls of slaked lime, road dust or land-plaster. Do not pour tar 
 on the dry seed. As a further preventive against wireworms, enough 
 Paris green may be stirred in to give the corn a faint green color. 
 
 Formaldehyde. 
 For Oat Smut, Stinking Smut of Wheat and Scabby Potatoes. 
 
 Formaldehyde 1 pint 
 
 Water 50 gallons 
 
 Smut is caused by a fungus which is carried over from one crop 
 to another by means of germs or spores which cling to the outside of 
 the seed kernels. When the seeds grow the fungus grows inside the 
 tissues of the plant. Later, when the plant blooms, the fungus takes 
 possession and produces black, dusty spores where the grain kernels 
 should be. Treat as follows : 
 
 Spread the seed out on a floor or canvas and sprinkle with the 
 solution until moist, but not wet enough to pack in the hand. Shovel 
 over repeatedly to distribute the moisture evenly, then shovel into a 
 pile and cover with sacks or canvas for at least two hours. The seed 
 may then be sown at once or may stand until the next day. If kept 
 longer the grain should be dried as rapidly as possible by spreading 
 it out into a thin layer and stirirng occasionally with a rake. Avoid 
 reinfection with smut from smutty sacks, bins, wagon boxes, or seeders. 
 Give them the formaldehyde treatment also. The sohition may be 
 mixed in a barrel and applied with a sprinkling can. Each gallon of 
 this solution is enough for a little more than one bushel of grain. 
 
 When treating potatoes, use 30 gallons of water, instead of 50, and 
 soak seed for two hours. This should be done before the sprouts start. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 151 
 
 USEFUL FORMULAS. 
 
 A Good Spray for the JIfn House. 
 
 rVnde carbolic acid 1 part 
 
 Kerosene oil 3 parts 
 
 Clean np all droppings and litter and spray thoronghly, in the 
 cracks and under the roosts. It will clean out all lice, unites and fleas. 
 
 For Killing Lice on Cattle and Young Stocl- — No. 1. 
 
 Linseed oil 1 gallon 
 
 Lard compound 5 pounds 
 
 Flowers of sulphur 5 pounds 
 
 Kerosene oil 2 quarts 
 
 Grease the stock all over with this ointment and. every louse will 
 be killed. Repeat in ten days to destroy the new crop. 
 
 For Killing Lice 071 Cattle and Young Stock — No. 2. 
 
 Soft soap 4 quarts 
 
 Kerosene oil 1 pint 
 
 Water 6 quarts 
 
 Churn well together and wash the aniinals thoroughly. Repeat 
 
 as with No. 1. 
 
 An Excellent Lice Powder for Poultry. 
 
 Crude carbolic acid Vo pint 
 
 Gasoline II/2 pints 
 
 Plaster of Paris 5 pounds 
 
 Mix thoroughly and rub through a fine sieve. Let stand for one 
 day before using. Do not use this powder on young chicks. 
 
 Government WhitevJash. 
 
 1. Whitewash for Outside Use — (1) Slake 1 bushel of quick- 
 lime in 12 gallons of hot water; (2) dissolve two pounds of common 
 salt and 1 pound of sulphate of zinc in 2 gallons of boiling water; 
 pour (2) into (1). then add 2 gallons of skim milk and mix thor- 
 oughly. Whitewash is spread liglitly ovei» 'rtie surface with a broad 
 brush. 
 
 2. Whitewash for Interior Painting — Slake a peck of quick- 
 lime with boiling water and cover the instant the water is added. 
 Strain after slaking, and put in a gallon of salt dissolved in hot water, 
 a quarter of a pound of Spanish whiting, two pounds of rice-paste, and 
 a half-pound of glue, dissolved in M^arm water. Mix these thoroughly, 
 cover, and set aside for a few days to ripen. 
 
152 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 If this is made thin enough, it may be sprayed on fences, nests, 
 troughs, hen-coops, poultry-houses and walls. If a spray-pump is used 
 two or three coats should be put on. No mice, vermin or lice can live 
 where this wash is used. 
 
 Grafting Wax for Warm Weather — No. 1. 
 
 Resin 4 ounces 
 
 Beeswax 2 ounces 
 
 Tallow 1 ounce 
 
 Use the above proportion to make the amount needed. Melt to- 
 gether stir and pour into a pail of cold water. Grease the hands and 
 pull the wax until it is nearly white. Work into sticks and put in a 
 cool place. 
 
 Grafting Wax for Cool Weather — No. 2. 
 
 Resin 5 pounds 
 
 Beeswax 1 pound 
 
 Linseed oil 1 pint 
 
 Prepare same as No. 1. 
 
 Egg Preservative. 
 
 Water glass solution 1 gallon 
 
 Water 9 gallons 
 
 First boil and cool the water then add the water glass. Use stone 
 jars. Place the eggs in the solution from day to day, as they are laid, 
 taking care that they are absolutely clean. If placed in a cool, dark 
 place, eggs will remain fresh in this solution for one year. Infertile 
 eggs will keep longer than fertile eggs. 
 
 The Washington I^xperiment Station gives the following figures 
 as to size of container and number of eggs : 
 
 Size of Size of 
 
 Container Will Hold Container Will HoUl 
 
 1 gallon .... 40 eggs 4 gallon .... 160 eggs 
 
 2 gallon .... 80 eggs 5 gallon .... 200 eggs 
 
 3 gallon . . . . ] 20 eggs 10 gallon .... 400 eggs 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 153 
 
 HOW TO REMOVE STAINS. 
 
 Black Silk — Brush and wipe it thoroughly; lay on table with the 
 side intended to show, up; sponge with hot coffee strained through 
 muslin; when partly dry, iron. 
 
 To Remove Stains or Grease From Oil Faint — Use bisulphide of 
 carbon, spirits of turpentine, or if dry and old, use chloroform. These 
 and tar spots can be softened with olive oil and lard. 
 
 Iron Rust — Warm 10 per cent solution of oxalic or citric acid. 
 Do not use on silk ; sour milk may also be used. 
 
 Riist From Steel — Mix a half-ounce of emery powder with one ounce 
 of soap and rub well. 
 
 Fruit Stains From Cotton — Apply cold soap, then touch the spot 
 with a feather or fine brush dipped in chlorate of soda, then dip im- 
 mediately in cold water. Alcohol is often very efficient. 
 
 Grease From Silk— Moisten the spot and rub with magnesia, let it 
 dry, then brush the powder off. 
 
 Scorch Stains From White Linen — Lay in bright sun. 
 
 Mildew — Rub a little soap over the milder spots, and over this 
 a little chalk and lemon juice, place the garment in the sun for two 
 hours and wash in the usual way. 
 
 Fruit Stains on the Hands — Moisten the hands and hold them 
 over burning sulphur; if vegetable stains, rub with a slice of raw 
 potato. 
 
 Indelible Inks — A 10 per cent solution of potassium cyanide, very 
 poisonous. 
 
 Iodine — Wood alcohol, 10 per cent solution of potassium iodide. 
 
 Tar, Wago7i Grease — Soap and oil, turpentine. 
 
 Paint, Varnish — Turpentine, benzine, carbon tetrachloride. Do 
 not use turpentine on silk. 
 
 Oil 3Iarks on Wall Paper — Apply paste of cold water and pipe 
 clay, leave it on all night, brush off in the morning. 
 
 Paint Spots From Clothing — Saturate with equal parts turpen- 
 tine and spirits of ammonia. 
 
 To Cleanse House Paper — Rub with flannel dipped in oatmeal. 
 
 Black Cloth — Mix one part of spirits of amm(mia with three parts 
 warm water; rub with sponge or dark cloth; clean with water; rub 
 with the nap. 
 
 Furniture — For Finger Marks, Rub with a soft rag and sweet oil. 
 
 Chromos — Go over lightly with a damp linen cloth. 
 
 Zinc — Rub with a piece of cotton cloth dipped in kerosene, nfter- 
 wards v/ith a dry cloth. 
 
 Window Glass — Paint can be removed by a strong solution of soda. 
 
 To Clean Tinware — Common soda, applied with a moistened news- 
 paper and polished with a dry piece, will make it look like new. 
 
 To Cleanse the Coffee Pot — Boil in it water in which soda has 
 l>een dissolved. 
 
 Chloroform will often restore the color in colored goods. 
 
154 THE F A R M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 TESTED RECIPES 
 
 SALT-RISING BREAD. 
 
 Put 2 tablespoons of corn meal into a glass with a fitted cover 
 (use a small-sized dried-beef glass) and add a bit of soda about 
 one-half as large as a small pea. Pour over this enough scalded 
 milk, which has become partially cooled, to make a thin batter. It 
 should fill the cup about one-half full. Stir while the milk is being 
 poured in, and place in a covered dish containing warm water 
 and set where it will keep at an even temperature just a little below 
 scalding heat. It should become light in six hours, and is then 
 known as "railroad emptyings." It may now be set away until ready 
 for use. It will keep for several days, if kept cool. 
 
 For 4 loaves of bread, put 1 cup of flour into a bread pan and 
 pour over it, stirring constantly to avoid lumps, 1 cup of scalded 
 milk, hot, and enough boiling water to thoroughly wet the entire 
 mass. Stir until perfectly smooth, then add about 2 cups of cold 
 water and enough flour to make a soft batter. Stir into this, which 
 should now be about hike warm, three teaspoons of the emptyings, 
 place the bread pan in a larger pan of warm water and set where 
 it Avill keep warm, but not hot. Avoid drafts. When about double 
 in bulk add 2 teaspoons of salt and sufficient flour to make into 
 soft loaves with a small amount of kneading (mixing). Set in a 
 warm place and let rise again until about double in bulk, then 
 bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 ROLLS. 
 
 Pour 1 pint of boiled milk over a scant half-cup of shortening 
 (half butter and half lard). Add a half-cup of sugar, and when 
 cold, 1 compressed yeast cake dissolved in a little water. Thicken 
 as for bread sponge. Let rise and knead into soft loaf, adding one- 
 half teaspoon salt at this time. Let rise again. AVhen light knead 
 very little, and roll out one inch thick. Butter and sprinkle very 
 lightly with flour; cut with cookie cutter and pinch edges together; 
 let get very light. Bake in moderate oven for about 15 minutes. 
 Start at nine or ten in the morning for use at night. Let rise on 
 side table, unless severe cold weather, Avhen place near stove. 
 
 GRAHAM BREAD. 
 
 One-half cup New Orleans molasses, i/o cup granlated sugar, 2 
 cups graham flour, 2 cups white flour, 2 cups sour milk, or butter 
 milk, 1 scant teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Stir well and bake one 
 hour in a moderate oven. This makes two small loaves. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 155 
 
 MUFFINS. 
 
 One egg, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 tablespoons sugar, % cup melted 
 butter, 2 cups fiour before sifting, 3 teaspoons baking powder and 
 1/4 teaspoon salt. Beat until light and bake in quick oven, about 20 
 minutes. 
 
 BAKING POWDER BISCUITS. 
 
 One and one-half cups flour, 1% teaspoons baking powder, 1 
 tablespoon of lard, % teaspoon salt. Add sufficient flour to make a 
 soft dough and roll to about one inch thick. Cut in desired shape 
 and bake in quick oven. This may also be used for shortcakes and 
 for dumplings. 
 
 WHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. 
 
 Two and one-half cups sifted flour, I/2 teaspoon salt, 2 cups sour 
 milk, V/4 teaspoon soda, 1 egg. ]\Iix and sift flour, salt and soda; 
 add sour milk, and egg well beaten. Drop by spoonfuls on 
 greased, hot griddled. Cook on one side. When puffed full of bub- 
 bles and cooked on edges, turn and cook other side. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. NO. 1. 
 
 Two cups buttermilk, 1 cup water. 2 teaspoons soda, salt. Add 
 flour to make batter of right consistency. Mix at night, and add 
 soda in the morning. 
 
 BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. NO. 2. 
 
 One heaping cup buckwheat flour, ^4, cup white flour, % cup sour 
 milk, I/O cup water, salt. Mix and add yeast cake dissolved in water. 
 Start at night, adding even teaspoon of soda and the salt in the morn- 
 ing. Before adding soda in the morning take out % cup of batter to 
 start the next batch. No more yeast need be added. 
 
 CORN BREAD. 
 
 Two cups sour milk, % or 14 cup sugar. 2 cups corn meal, 1 
 cup white flour, large teaspoon soda dissolved in milk. salt. Steam 
 three hours. 
 
 FRIED CAKES. 
 
 One cup thick sour milk, not too old, 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 2 
 level tablespoons butter, 1 level tablespoon lard (both melted), 1 
 level teaspoon soda. 1 heaping teaspoon baking powder, a dash of 
 nutmeg and cinnamon, more of the latter, salt. Cream butter, lard 
 and sugar together and, when cool, add eggs and beat well. Add 
 flour and lastly the milk. Put soda in the milk and sift baking 
 powder with the flour. Knead on board until smooth, being careful 
 not to get too thick. Roll to about an inch thick: cut in rings and 
 fry in hot fat. 
 
156 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 PLAIN CAKE. 
 
 One cup sugar, 1 egg, rounding tablespoon soft butter, 1 cup 
 sweet milk, 2 cups sifted Hour, 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder. 
 If short of milk, half water may be used. Cream butter and sugar 
 together, add egg and beat well ; add flour, in which the baking 
 powder has been mixed, salt and inilk. Beat thoroughly and bake 
 in medium-sized bread tin. 
 
 LAYER CAKE. 
 
 One cup sugar and 2 eggs beaten to a cream; 4 tabelspoons 
 melted butter, beat thoroughly. Add 1 cup sweet milk, 2 heaping 
 teaspoons baking powder, sifted through 2 cups flour, pinch of salt, 
 1 teaspoon vanilla ; makes two large layers, or three smaller ones. 
 
 PIE CRUST. 
 
 One cup flour, 2 large tablespoons lard, 3 tablespoons water, 
 salt. Work the lard into the flour thoroughly, add the water and 
 work gently with the hands shaping it into a form for rolling. When 
 a stiff dough is formed, turn on a floured board, pat with a rolling 
 pin and roll into a thin piece. 
 
 CUSTARD PIE. 
 
 Two eggs, beaten, % cup sugar, 1 rounding tablespoon flour, a 
 little salt and nutmeg. Smooth the flour and nutmeg in a little 
 milk; put all ingredients into a pint bowl and fill with milk. This 
 makes filling for one pie. Bake in raw crust. 
 
 LEMON PIE. 
 
 One cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon corn starch, 
 1 cup boiling water, 2 eggs, 1 lemon. Cream butter and sugar, 
 moisten starch with cold water and then add the boiling water; 
 pour this over the butter and sugar and let cool, then add the 
 beaten eggs and lemon juice with a little of the grated rind. 
 
 PUMPKIN PIE. 
 
 Steam or stew the pumpkin, cut into small pieces, until soft 
 enough to mash with a potato masher. Return it to the fire to let 
 the water dry off, taking care that it does not burn or scorch. For 
 one pie take 1 well beaten egg, lA cup of brown sugar, 1 cup pump- 
 kin, 1 cup rich milk (a little cream improves it) and a pinch of salt. 
 Stir well together, season with Vo teaspoon ginger and bake with 
 undercrust in a moderately hot oven. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 157 
 
 RHUBARB PIE. 
 
 One large cup chopped pie plant, 1 large cup sugar, 1 egg, the 
 grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon flour. Stir all together 
 and bake between two crusts. 
 
 CAKE FILLING. NO. 1. 
 
 Two-thirds cup sugar, IY2 tablespoons corn starch ; pour over 
 this 1 small cup boiling water and cook 5 minutes; add rind and 
 juice of one lemon, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon butter and cook one 
 minute. 
 
 CAKE FILLING. NO. 2. 
 
 One-half cup sugar, 1/2 cup sweet milk, 2 teaspoons flour, yolks 
 of 2 eggs, heaping teaspoon butter, teaspoon vanilla, 1/2 cup chopped 
 nut meats. Cook in double boiler until it thickens. 
 
 GINGER COOKIES. 
 
 One cup sugar, 1 cup Duff's molasses, 1 cup lard, 1 cup sour 
 milk, 2 teaspoons soda. 1 Teaspoon ginger. 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 
 even teaspoon salt, 1 egg. Put all ingrdients in dish together and 
 stir; mix soft and bake m quick oven. 
 
 SUGAR CO OKIES. 
 
 One and one-half cups sugar, 1 cup sour cream, butter the size 
 of an egg, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon soda. Mix soft and bake quickly. 
 
 GINGER BREAD. 
 
 One-half cup sugar, I/2 cup lard, 1 cup molasses, 2i/l> cups flour, 
 2 eggs, 1 cup boiling water, 1 teaspoon each of soda, ginger, cinna- 
 mon and cloves. Beat the eggs, add sugar, lard and molasses; 
 cream them, then add flour, soda and spices and last of all the 
 boiling water. Bake in a long pan in a moderate oven. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 To 7 eggs take half a pound of flour and % of a pound of sugar 
 and the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Pour over the sugar a 
 half-cupful of boiling water and let it boil. Beat whites and yolks 
 of egg well together, and when sugar is boiled to a clear syrup, 
 pour it over them, beating the whole until it is thick and light. 
 Stir in the flour lightly and add the lemon last of all. Bake in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 BEEF STEAK STEW. 
 
 Cut 1 pound of medium thick round steak into pieces about 2 
 inches square ; place in bottom of a 3-quart basin, drop bits of butter 
 over the pieces, then add alternate layers of onions and sliced po- 
 
158 THE F AB M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 tatoes, scattering a little flour and salt over each layer. Put a gen- 
 erous supply of butter on top. The dish may be filled to within 1 
 inch of the top. Pour on boiling water; cover tightly and bake 
 sloAvly for about 5 hours. Fresh, or canned tomatoes, may be added, 
 if desired. 
 
 BEEF AND VEGETABLE STEW. 
 
 Cut potatoes, carrots, turnips and any other vegetable desired 
 into small dice and boil until tender in broth in which beef has been 
 boiled ; add bits of cooked meat, season with salt and pepper, heat 
 and serve. If the meat was salted when cooked, only a small 
 amount of salt need be added. 
 
 MINCE MEAT. 
 
 One quart ground beef, which has been thoroughly cooked, 2 
 quarts sour apples (Greenings preferred), 2 teacups beef suet, 
 ground very fine, 1 pound raisins, 1 teacup English currants, 1 
 pint black molasses, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound granulated 
 sugar, 1 quart sour cider, 1 pint boiled cider, or apple jelly, 1 tea- 
 spoon salt, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 grated nut- 
 meg. The raisins should be seeded and ground, the English cur- 
 rants thoroughly washed and ground. Mix together, cook thor- 
 oughly and can hot, as fruit. 
 
 MOCK MINCE MEAT. 
 
 One peck green tomatoes. 1 peck sour apples, 5 pounds sugar, half 
 brown, half granulated, 1 pound raisins, 1 pound English currants, 
 2 tablespoons cinnamon, 1 tablespoon cloves, 1 tablespoon nutmeg, 2 
 cups vinegar or boiled cider, 2 cups Dove molasses, 2 tablespoons 
 salt, 2 cups suet,. Grind tomatoes fine and boil in three waters, the 
 last two warm when put on, boiling 15 minutes each time. Put in- 
 gredients together, with exception of spices, and boil 1 hour, or 
 until apples seem done ; add spices 5 minutes before removing from 
 fire. If boiled cider is not available, pear pickle juice may be sub- 
 stituted. Can same as mince meat. This is an excellent substitute 
 and preferred by some to real mince meat. 
 
 SUET PUDDING. 
 
 One cup molasses, 1 cup suet chopped fine, 1 cup sweet milk, V2 
 cup chopped raisins, V2 cup English currants, 1 teaspoon different 
 spices to suit taste, 1 teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt, 31/2 cups sifted 
 flour. Stir ingredients together and steam 3 hours in two buttered 
 
 COffcB C 3-118. 
 
 SAUCE FOR SUET PUDDING. 
 
 One cup sugar, 1/2 cup butter, 1 egg, 1 lemon (all the juice and 
 1/2 the grated peel), 1 teaspoon nutmeg, 3 tablespoons boiling water. 
 Cook over boiling water, stirring constantly. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 159 
 
 APPLE SAUCE CAKE. 
 
 One and one-half cups apple sauce, 2 teaspoons soda, 1 cup 
 brown sugar, 1 cup raisins, 2 cups sifted flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 
 1/2 teaspoon cloves, a little nutmeg, V2 cup butter, salt. Cook apples, 
 put through a colander and sweeten as for sauce; stir soda into the 
 apple sauce, cream butter and sugar together, stir all thoroughly, 
 beat and bake. 
 
 MILK SOUP. 
 
 One quart sweet milk, 2 medium sized onions, sliced. Cook in 
 double boiler for three-quarters of an hour; add 1 cup mashed pota- 
 toes, a small piece of butter, salt and pepper to taste ; serve hot with 
 butter crackers. 
 
 GRAPE JUICE. 
 
 Ten quartes grapes after stemming, 1 quart water. Let boil 
 until the grapes are soft then mash and strain through cloth as for 
 jelly. Do not squeeze, but let drain. Measure juice, adding scant 
 cup of sugar to a quart of juice; let boil until sugar is all dissolved, 
 strain and bottle while hot and seal carefully. This makes about 
 6 quarts. Concords make best grape juice. 
 
 FRUIT SALAD DRESSING. 
 
 Four tablespoons cream, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 3 tablespoons 
 sugar, 1/4 teaspoon mustard, V4 teaspoon salt. 2 eggs. Beat eggs to- 
 gether until light, then add sugar, salt and mustard which has been 
 mixed, next the vinegar and lastly the cream. Cook over hot water 
 until thick, stirring constantly. Use on any fruit sa,lad. 
 
 CHILI SAUCE. 
 
 Chop together 1 dozen good sized ripe tomatoes, 2 or o green 
 peppers and 2 onions. Boil for 1 hour, then add 1 cupful vinegar, 
 1 tablespoon salt, 4 tablespoons light brown sugar, cinnamon and 
 cloves to taste ; boil all together for 20 minutes ; seal in bottles. 
 
 MOLASSES COOKIES 
 
 One cup lard. 1 cup sugar, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup boiling water, 
 1 tablespoon each of cinnamon and ginger, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tea- 
 spoon baking soda, a little salt, flour to make stiff enough to roll 
 out. Bake in a quick oven, not too hot. 
 
 PICKLED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Wash and wipe three hundred small cucumbers and one quart 
 of peppers ; put in a stone jar with Y2 cup of salt. Heat to boiling 
 point 11/2 gallons of cider vinegar, and II/2 pints of water. Add i/4 
 pound each, of whole cloves, whole allspice and stick cinnamon 
 and 1 ounce of white mustard-seed, and pour over pickles. 
 
160 THE F ARM E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 WALNUT TAFFY. 
 
 Place over the fire in a kettle 3 pounds of sugar and one pint 
 of water. When the sugar is dissolved and the syrup comes to a 
 boil add I/2 teaspoon cream of tartar and cook to the crack degree. 
 Spread in a buttered pan a pound and a half of shelled nuts, hickory 
 or walnuts. Pour the boiling candly over them and when cool break 
 into pieces. 
 
 SOAP MAKING. 
 NO. 1. 
 
 Take three cans of concentrated lye, 14 pounds of cracklings 
 and rinds, 3 pails (10-quart size) of soft water. Use a large iron 
 kettle, put in 1 pail of the water and the 3 cans of lye, let it come 
 to a boil so as to dissolve the lye. Then put in the cracklings. Let 
 this boil slowly for four or five hours and add, along, the two other 
 pails of water. Before you quit boiling it put in two handfuls of 
 powdered borax. Take away the fire from around the kettle and 
 let it stand over night. In the morning you can cut out soap four 
 or five inches thick and there will be no lye left in the bottom of the 
 kettle. Cut out in cakes and lay on a board to dry ; can be used in 
 a short time. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 One quart soft water, 1 10-cent can Babbitt's lye, i/i pound 
 powdered borax. Place in kettle and heat until all is dissolved, 
 then cool. Strain 2 quarts of grease (a part of which must be beef 
 tallow) through a cheese cloth, pour slowly into the cold solution, 
 mix thoroughly and stir over a fire until it becomes thick. Pour 
 into mould before too thick and block off before thoroughly cool. 
 This soap is too strong to use until two months old. 
 
 NO. 3. 
 
 Farmer's Soft Soap. 
 
 When cold weather sets in many farmers begin to save "soap 
 grease" and their hard-wood ashes, preparatory to making soap in 
 the spring. The "soap grease" consists of all kinds of scraps, such 
 as meat rinds, bones with marrow in them, in fact all kinds of odds 
 and ends that are partly grease. If there is no beef grease in the 
 lot, some must be supplied. 
 
 In the spring, before the warm weather begins to affect the 
 ' ' soap grease, ' ' the soap is made about as follows : 
 
 Erect a board platform and trough for catching the lye. On 
 the platform set a barrel with both ends knocked out, place in the 
 bottom some straw and on top of this about 2 quarts of slaked 
 lime. Fill the barrel with hard-wood ashes that have not been ex- 
 posed to the weather, and pour on water one pail at a time, for 
 several days. When the lye is strong enough to bear up an egg it is 
 ready to use. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 161 
 
 Place all the "soap grease" in a caldron kettle, pour on lye to 
 cover it and boil. The lye will take up all the grease and leave the 
 bones clean in the bottom. Boil slowly and keep trying, adding more 
 lye or water as seems necessary, until the soap becomes thick, then let 
 cool and place in a barrel for future use. 
 
 If perchance, as it sometimes happens, you find in the morning 
 that the soap has ' ' turned back, ' ' the addition of water will thicken 
 it. Only soft water should be used in soap making. 
 
 HOW TO CURE HAMS AND BACON. 
 
 Clear, cold weather is the best for butchering time, as the meat 
 should be cold and firm before cutting up. Trim hams and shoulders 
 and use trimmings for sausage. 
 
 If the smoked meat is to last through the summer, it should be 
 kept in the pickle at least six weeks ; if it is to be used immediately, 
 four weeks will be sufficient. There is nothing better than clean, 
 dry corn cobs for smokng, although hickory chips will answer very 
 well. All brine for pork should be strong enough to float an egg. 
 Use enough water to cover the meat, add the ingredients of the 
 formula used, boil, skim, let cool and pour over the meat. See that 
 all the meat is covered. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 
 For 100 pounds of meat — 1 ounce of saltpeter, 1 pint of 
 molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 8 pounds of salt. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 For 100 pounds of meat — 4 tablespoons saleratus, 8 pounds of 
 salt, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce saltpeter. 
 
 CURING HAMS AND BACON WITHOUT BRINE. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 
 For 100 pounds of meat — 1 pound pepper, % pound red pepper, 
 1/2 pound powdered saltpeter, 3 pounds brown sugar, 1 bushel salt. 
 Mix, rub each piece of meat thoroughly and pack closely in a large 
 tub. Leave same as with brine, then wash, dry and smoke. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 For 100 pounds of meat — 2 quarts salt, 3 ounces powdered salt- 
 peter, 4 ounces sugar, 1/2 pint molasses. Mix well and rub meat 
 three times with the mixture, two weeks between rubbings, wash 
 dry and smoke. 
 
 NO. 3. 
 
 For 100 pounds meat — 4 pounds salt, i/i pound powdered salt- 
 peter, 8 tablespoons brown sugar. Mix, divide into three parts, and 
 rub one portion into the meat every three days. Place with rind 
 down. 
 
162 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 PACKING PORK. 
 
 Use stone jar or whiskey barrel. Nothing but perfectly clean 
 and freshly scalded receptacles will do. Do not use, for pork, a 
 barrel that has been used for beef. Put salt into the bottom of the 
 barrel or jar, pack the pork in tightly, sprinkling salt over it as it 
 is packed. Make brine as for hams, except that only salt is used. 
 After two weeks if the brine looks muddy or ropy, take out, boil, 
 skim, wash the pork and return to jar. Do not put new brine on 
 old pork. 
 
 SAUSAGE. 
 
 Sausage is made from the pork trimmings. Various season- 
 ings are used, but sage is the staple. For the city market use less 
 fat than for the country. Pour the seasoning over the pieces be- 
 fore grinding. After grinding mix thoroughly, pack into clean 
 jars and pour melted lard over the top. If preferred, the sausage 
 may be packed in unbleached muslin bags, dipped in grease, and 
 hung in a dry place. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 
 For 1 pound of meat — 11/2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, 
 ly? teaspoons sage. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 For 40 pounds of meat — 18 ounces salt, 2 ounces pepper, 4 
 ounces sage. 
 
 HEAD CHEESE. 
 
 Soak the upper parts of the heads for a day or two in water 
 in which enough salt has been put to make a fairly strong brine. 
 This will remove all the blood and render them white and pure. 
 They should have been thoroughly cleaned before placing in the 
 brine. Boil until the bones will drop easily. Let cool, then chop 
 finely. Season to taste with pepper salt and such aromatic herbs 
 as liked, as sage, summer savory, etc. Place in a deep earthen dish 
 or crock and weight so as to form a firm mass. Let remain until 
 well set. It may be served cold, cut in thin slices, or sliced and 
 rolled in flour and fried. It makes a nice breakfast dish. 
 
 PIGS' FEET. 
 
 Thoroughly clean the feet, then boil until the bones are ready 
 to drop out. When cold they may be put into a hot spiced vinegar. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGE. 
 
 Six pounds of lean beef, 1 pound salt pork, 3 pounds lean fresh 
 pork, 1 pound beef suet, 1 ounce white pepper, 1 teaspoonful ground 
 mace, 3 ounces salt, one teaspoonful cayenne, 1 large onion chopped 
 fine. Chop the meat and suet separately very fine, then mix; add 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 163 
 
 all the seasoning, and mix thoroughly. Fill into casings and tie 
 into lengths, or use strong linen bags. Make a brine that will bear 
 an egg; put the sausage into it, and let stand two weeks, turning 
 and skimming every day. At the end of the first week throw away 
 the old brine, and put the sausage into new for the second week; 
 then smoke for a week. When smoked rub over the outside with 
 olive oil, and store in a cool, dark, dry place. If you wish to keep 
 the sausage for any length of time sprinkle the outside with pepper. 
 
 PICKLING BEEF. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 
 For 100 pounds of beef, fresh killed, take twelve pounds of 
 salt, eight pounds of brown sugar, one ounce of saltpeter, and mix 
 thoroughly. Cut the beef in suitable pieces and pack in the barrel, 
 using the mixture as you pack. Weight the meat down, after pack- 
 ing closely and tightly, and leave twenty-four hours ; then cover 
 well with cold water, and Aveight well to keep the meat under the 
 brine, tipping the barrel back and forth frequently to keep the 
 brine well stirred up. This meat will keep all summer, and when 
 wanted for use, will need no freshening, but should be simply 
 washed in cold water and boiled slowly until the bones will slip 
 out. The meat must at all times be completely covered with the 
 brine, and well weighted to keep it under. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 For 100 pounds of beef, dissolve 8 pounds of best salt, 4 pounds 
 of brown sugar and 4 ounces of saltpeter in water, boil, skim and 
 pour on boiling hot. Weight the meat down securely. 
 
164 THE FABMERH' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 
 
 While we do not guarantee the reliability of any commission 
 merchant, we believe that those listed below will give you a square 
 deal. Should they not do so, please notify us at once. 
 
 We advise caution in shipping to unknown firms who send out 
 quotations higher than those of established houses. Such parties 
 are often irresponsible, and are in the habit of pocketing the entire 
 returns and leaving for parts unknown. Avoid them. 
 
 BALTIMORE, MD. 
 
 THOMAS BOND & SON, Fruits and Vegetables, 17 E. Camden St. 
 
 THE SNYDER & BLANKFARD CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 220-222 Light St. 
 
 STEVENS BROTHERS, Fruits and Produce, 226 Charles St. 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 ALLEN-HURD CO., Fruits and Produce, 4 New Fanuel Hall Market. 
 
 CHAPIN BROTHERS, Fruits and Produce, 107-109 Market St. 
 
 COLLINS, PRATT & GRAVES CO., Fruits and Produce, Poultry and Eggs, 
 13 North Side Fanuel Hall Market. 
 
 T. E. HOLWAY & CO., Fruits and General Produce, 15 North Market St. 
 
 J. D. MEAD COMPANY, Fruits and General Produce, cor. Clinton and Fulton 
 St.s. 
 
 A. F. YOUNG & CO., Fruits, Onions and Potatoes, 77 Clinton St. 
 
 POTTER & WILLIAMS CO., INC., Fruits and General Produce, 144-146 Michi- 
 gan Ave. 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y. 
 
 BURT H. BEAN, PVuits and Produce in car lots, W. Market and Perry Sts. 
 
 F. BRENNISEN & SON, General Commission Merchants, 156-158 Michigan Ave. 
 
 G. M. WATTLES & SON, Wholesale Butter, Eggs and Cheese, 152 Michigan Ave. 
 DANIEL BOOSING, Wholesale Butter, Eggs and Cheese, 154 Michigan Ave. 
 GEO. R. WHITNEY, Wholesale Butter Eggs, and Cheese, 42 W. Market St. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
 BARNETT BROS., Vegetables, Butter, Eggs and General Produce, 117 W. So. 
 
 Water St. 
 COYNE BROS., Vegetables, Butter, Eggs and Poultry, 119 W. So. Water St, 
 A. L. McCLAY & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 131 W. So. Water St. 
 G. M. H. WAGNER & SONS, Fruits and Vegetables, 123 W. So. Water St. 
 
 CINCINNATI, O. 
 
 F. ANKENBAUER & SONS, Fruits and Vegetables, 118 E, Front St. 
 ARMACOST, RILEY & CO., Fruits and General Produce, 111-113 E. Front St. 
 L J. CANNON & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 110 E. Front St. 
 
 G. E. MARKLEY & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits, Vegetables, 212-214 
 
 W. Sixth St. 
 L N. PIERCE & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits, Vegetables, 224 W. Sixth St. 
 HENRY RANSICK & SONS, Fruits and Produce, 226 W. Sixth St. 
 THE WEIL-BROCKMAN CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 107-109 E. Front St. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 165 
 
 CLEVELAND, O. 
 
 THE BIGALOW FEUIT CO., Fruits and Produce, Cor. E. Ninth and Broadway. 
 H. M. STRAUSS & CO., Fruits and Produce, Hay and Grain, 933 Garfield Bldg. 
 
 COLUMBUS, O. 
 
 THE EVANS & TURNER CO., Fruits and Produce, 123 Chestnut St. 
 
 THE WILLIAM FISHER & SONS CO., Fruits & Produce, 120 E. Towne St. 
 
 DETROIT, MICH. 
 
 F. M. BALDWIN & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 360 Jefferson Ave. 
 
 GEO. L. COLLINS & CO., Wholesale Fruits, Produce and Poultry, 29 Wood- 
 bridge St. 
 
 CHAS. BROWN & CO., Fruits and Produce, Eastern Market. 
 
 EDWARD READE & SON, Fruits, Vegetables, Beans, etc., 26 W. Woodbridge 
 St. 
 
 J. M. SMITH & CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 41 W. Woodbridge St. 
 
 INDIANAPOLIS, IND. 
 
 GEO. HITZ & CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits and Vegetables, 30-34 S. Dela- 
 ware St. 
 J. L. KEACH, Fruits and Produce, 112 S. Delaware St. 
 JOHN W. NEUMAN & CO., Fruits and Produce, 29 S. Delaware St. 
 
 KANSAS CITY, MO. 
 
 C. C. CLEMONS PRODUCE CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 128 and 132 
 
 Grand Ave. 
 DOUGLAS-AGNEW FRUIT CO., Wholesale Fruits and Produce, 419 Walnut St. 
 
 LOUISVILLE, KY. 
 
 JOS. DENUNZIO FRUIT CO., Fruits, Vegetables and Produce, 112 W. Jefferson 
 
 St. 
 KOHLHEPP & lULA, Fruits and General Produce, 200 E. Jefferson St. 
 
 D. B. SPERRY, Apples, Potatoes, Beans and Onions, 108-110 S. Second St. 
 
 MILWAUKEE, WIS. 
 
 A. G. EISSLER & CO., Fruits and Produce, 275 Broadway. 
 
 E. R. GODFREY & SONS CO., Fruits and Produce, 257 Broadway. 
 
 A. GROSSENBACH CO., Fruits, Produce and Vegetables, 299-303' Broadway. 
 A. J. W. PIERCE CO., Produce, Vegetables, Eggs and General Commission, 
 305-307 Broadway. 
 
 MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
 
 GRINNELL, COLLINS CO., Green Fruits and Country Produce, 212 Sixth 
 
 St., N. 
 C. E. HEALY & SON, Wholesale Dealers in Potatoes and Produce, 125 N. 
 Sixth St. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS, LA. 
 
 E. P. STACY & SONS, Fruits and Produce, 200-202 Sixth St., N. 
 JORDAN BROS., Fruits and Produce, 206 Sixth St., N. 
 GEO. W. DAVIDSON & CO., Fruits and Produce, 309-313 Povdras St. 
 NOBLE & SALTER, Fruits and Produce, 201-215 Gravier St. 
 
166 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 NEW YORK, N. Y. 
 
 J. H. BAHEENBURG BRO. & CO., Fruits and Produce, 103-105 Murray St. 
 E. R. BRACKETT CO., Fruits and Vegetables, cor. Franklin and West "Sts. 
 W. J. & S. H. DAVENPORT, Fruits and Produce, 130 Park Place. 
 R. W. DIXONS & SON, Fruits and Produce, 266 Washington St. 
 S. H. & E. H. FROST, Fruits and Vegetables, 319 Washington St. 
 FURMAN & PAGE, Fruits. Vegetables and Produce, 112 Warren St. 
 HORACE B. HANSON, Fruits and Produce, 180 Reade St. 
 HENRY L. HUNTER, INC., Fruits and Produce, 849 Morris Ave. 
 McCORMICK, HUBBS <Sr CO., Fruits and Produce, 279 Washington St. 
 JOHN NIX & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 281 Washington St. 
 OLIVIT BROS., INC., Fruits and Vegetables, 335 Washington St. 
 SIMONS, SHUTTLEWORTH & FRENCH CO., INC., Exporters and Importers 
 
 of Green Fruits, 204 Franklin St. 
 A. r. YOUNG & CO., Vegetables and Fruits, Washington and Duane Sts. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
 
 E. S. ARMSTRONG & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 132 Dock St. 
 
 BARKER & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 226 Dock St. 
 
 WILLIAM G. BONSTEDT, Fruits and Produce, 10 S. Front St. 
 
 BROWN & McMAHON, Fruits and Vegetables, 334 N. Front St. 
 
 G. W. BUTTERWORTH, Fruits and Vegetables. N.E. cor. Second and Dock Sts. 
 
 C. G. JUSTICE CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 123 Dock St. 
 
 W. H. MICHAEL & SON, Fruits and Vegetables, 114 Dock St. 
 
 P. S. SCOTT CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 150 Dock St. 
 
 H. B. WILLIAMS. INC., Fruit and Produce, 29-30 Market St. 
 
 E. S. WOODWORD & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 122 Dock St. 
 
 PITTSBURGH, PA. 
 
 M. O. COGGINS CO., Fruits, A^egetables and Poultry, 56 21st St. 
 JAMES M. FANNING, Fi-uits, Produce. Eggs and Poultry, 60 21st St. 
 JOSEPH FLAHERTY, Fruits and Produce, cor. Penn Ave. and 21st St. 
 KOEHLER PRODUCE CO., Fruits and Produce, 18th St. and Penn Ave. 
 JOHN WALLACE, Fruits, Vegetables, Butter. Eggs and Poultry, 205 21st St. 
 
 RICHMOND, VA. 
 
 S. F. PADGETT & CO., Fruits, Vegetables, Butter and Eggs, 1303 E. Gary St. 
 
 ST. LOUIS, MO. 
 
 GERBER FRUIT CO., Fruits and Produce, 804-806 N. Fourth St. 
 
 F. W. BRACKMAN COMMISSION CO., Eggs, Poultry, Butter, Fruit, 817 N. 
 
 Fourth St. 
 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
 AUGUST AMMON, Fruits and Produce, 67 E. Third St. 
 
 DORE-REDPATH CO., Fruits, Vegetables and Produce, 111-115 E. Third St. 
 
 J. W. Fillebrown & Co., Wholesale Fruits, Nuts and Vegetables, 79 E. Third St. 
 
 TOLEDO, O. 
 
 M. O. BAKER & CO., Fruits, Vegetables, Butter and Eggs, 139-141 S. Huron St. 
 THE GEROE CO., Foreign and Domestic Fruits and Produce, 32-36 N. Huron St. 
 
 WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 
 E. J. ADAMS & CO., Fruits and Vegetables, 907-909 B St., N. W. 
 
 ROBERT L. ANDERSON, Fruits and Vegetables, 919 B St., N. W. 
 
 W. H. HARRISON, Fruits and Vegetables, 905 B St., N. W. 
 
 KREY, PRICE & CO., Live Stock, Poultry, Eggs and Produce, 923 Louisiana 
 
 Ave, N. W. 
 J. R. SHERWOOD, 905 Louisiana Ave. N. W. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 16 7 
 
 CUT-FLOWER COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 
 
 BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 N. F. McCAKTHY & CO., 84 Hawlev St. 
 H. M. E0BIN80N & CO., 15 Providence St. 
 
 BUFFALO, N. Y. 
 WM. F. KASTING CO., 385 Ellicott St. 
 
 CHICAGO, ILL. 
 
 CHAS. W. McKELLAR, 51 Wabash Ave. 
 PETER REINBERG. 51 Wabash Ave. 
 T. A. BUDLONG, 37-39 Randolph St. 
 
 CINCINNATI, O. 
 
 THE J. M. Mc-CULLOUGfT'S SON'S CO., 310 Walnut St. 
 
 DETROIT, MICH. 
 
 MICHIGAN CUT FLOWER EXCHANGE, 38-40 Broadway. 
 
 MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
 RICE BROTHERS, 113 N. Sixth St. 
 
 NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 NEW YORK CUT FLOWER CO., Sixth Ave. and 28th St. 
 
 HENSHAW & FRENCH, 51 W. 28th St. 
 
 M. C. FORD, 121 W. 28th St. 
 
 A. L. YOUNG & CO., 54 W. 28th St. 
 
 BAGLEY, RIEDEL & MEYER, INC., 34 W. 28th St. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
 
 LEO NIESSON & CO., 1209 Arch St. 
 
 THE S. 8. PENNOCK-MEEHAN CO., 1 808-1812 Ludlow St. 
 
168 THE F AR M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 WHERE TO BUY. 
 
 A request from you to any of the firms listed below will bring 
 their latest catalog and price-list, or you will be put in touch with 
 their nearest dealer. While we make no guarantees, we believe that 
 every firm listed is absolutely reliable. Should your dealings with 
 them prove unsatisfactory, please notify us at once. 
 
 ACETYLENE LIGHT PLANTS. 
 
 THE GEM CITY ACETYLENE GENERATOR CO., Dayton O. 
 UNION CARBIDE SALES CO., 42nd St. Building, NeW York. 
 
 ALABASTINE. 
 
 ALABASTINE CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 
 ALARM CLOCKS. 
 WESTCLOCK, La Salle, 111. 
 
 ALFALFA SEED. 
 
 THE WING SEED CO., Mechanicsburg, O. 
 A. B. LYMAN, Excelsior, Minn. 
 N. WERTHEIMER, Ligonier, Ind. 
 
 ALUMINXJM WARE. 
 
 THE ALUMINUM COOKING UTENSILS CO., New Kensington, Pa. 
 
 APPLE BARRELS. 
 
 ROBERT GILLIES, Medina N. Y. 
 
 BECKER BROS., 389 William St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 QUAKER CITY COOPERAGE CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 AUTOMATIC FEEDERS AND WATERERS. 
 COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 AUTOMOBILES. 
 
 FORD MOTOR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 OAKLAND MOTOR CAR CO., Pontiac, Mich. 
 HUDSON MOTOR CAR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 THE WILLYS-OVERLAND CO., Toledo, O. 
 SAXON MOTOR CAR CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 HUPP MOTOR CAR CO.. Detroit, Mich 
 FRANKLIN AUTOMOBILE CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 AUTO TRUCKS. 
 
 CHASE MOTOR TRUCK CO., Syracuse N. Y. 
 
 ATTERBURY MOTOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 THE AUTOCAR CO., Ardmore, Pa. 
 
 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, HI. 
 
 THE AVERY CO., Peoria, HI. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 169 
 
 BABCOCK CREAM TESTERS. 
 
 CENTRAL SCIENTIFIC CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 BAGS. 
 BUFFALO BAG CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 BARN EQUIPMENT. 
 Stanchions, Litter Carriers, Bull Pens, Plans, Etc. 
 
 THE HARRIS MFG. CO., Salem, O. 
 
 JAMES BOYLE & SON, Salem, O. 
 
 HUNT, HELM, FERRIS & CO., Harvarrl, III. 
 
 JAMES MANUFACTURING CO., Fort Atchinson, Wis. 
 
 WEST BEND BARN EQUIPMENT CO., West Bend, Wis. 
 
 LOUDEN MACHINERY CO., Fairfield, Iowa. 
 
 RICHARDS-WILCOX MFG. CO., Aurora, 111. 
 
 BASKETS. 
 
 BURLINGTON BASKET CO., Burlington, Iowa. 
 WEBSTER BASKET CO., Webster, N. Y. 
 
 BEES AND BEE SUPPLIES. 
 
 DEHUHN & SONS, Hamilton, 111. 
 
 W. T. FALCONER MFG. CO., Falconer, N. Y. 
 
 THE A. I. ROOT CO., Medina, O. 
 
 THE A. G. WOODMAN CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 
 DEDANT & SON, Hamilton, 111. 
 
 BELTING. 
 BICKFORD & FRANCIS BELTING CO.. 35 Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 BERRY BASKETS AND CRATES. 
 
 MONTGOMERY BROTHERS CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 NEW ALBANY BOX AND BASKET CO., New Albany, Ind. 
 
 BLACKSMITHS' FORGES. 
 
 BUFFALO FORGE CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 C. A. S. FORGE WORKS, Saranac, Mich. 
 
 BONE CUTTERS. 
 
 STANDARD BONE CUTTER CO., Milford, Mass. 
 
 STRATTON MFG. CO., Erie, Pa. 
 
 F. W. MANN CO.. Milford. Mass. 
 
 WILSON BROS., Easton, Pa. 
 
 E. C. STURNS & CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 BUILDING MATERIAL. 
 
 GORDON-VAN TINE CO., Davenport, la. 
 
 HARRIS BROS., Chicago, 111. 
 
 CHICAGO MILL WORK SUPPLY CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 INTERNATIONAL MILL & TIMBER CO., Bay City, Mich. 
 
170 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 BUZZ SAWS FOR CUTTING CORD WOOD. 
 
 A. W. GRAY'S SONS, Midtlletown, Vt. 
 
 APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111. 
 
 HERTZLER & ZOOK CO., Belleville. Pa. 
 
 NP]W HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 
 
 CONSOLIDATED GAS ENGINE CO., 202 Fulton St., New York. 
 
 CAMERAS. 
 EASTMAN KODAK CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 CANOES Atn> BOATS. 
 
 THE W. H. MULLINS CO., Salem, Ohio. 
 OLD TOWN CANOE CO., Old Town, Maine. 
 MICHIGAN STEEL BOAT CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 DETROIT BOAT CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 CARBIDE, CALCIUM. 
 
 CALCIUM CARBIDE WORKS, Niagara Falls, N. Y. 
 
 CARPENTERS' TOOLS. 
 
 SIMMONS HARDWARE CO., New York and Philadelphia. 
 
 CARRIAGES. 
 
 ELKHART CARRIAGE & HARNESS CO., Elkhart, Ind. 
 
 CHAS. H. CHILDS & CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 
 THE OHIO CARRIAGE MFG. CO., Columbus, O. 
 
 D. T. BOHON, Harrodsburg, Kv. 
 
 STUDEBAKER, South Bend, Ind. 
 
 CAST IRON PIPE. 
 
 U. S. CAST IRON PIPE & FOUNDRY CO., New York City. 
 
 CEMENT. 
 
 THE ATLAS PORTLAND CEMENT CO., New York City. 
 LEHIGH PORTLAND CEMENT CO., Allentown, Pa. 
 
 CEMENT TOOLS. 
 
 SMITH & HOLTON MFG. CO., Clinton, Wis. 
 
 CHICKEN COOPS. 
 
 THE NOVELTY MFG. CO., Abington, 111. 
 
 CHURNS. 
 
 THE NOVELTY MFG. CO., Abington, HI. 
 COLUMBIAN MALL CRANE CO., Columbus, O. 
 DE KING MFG. CO., Chicago, 111. 
 THE FAYWAY CO., 117 John St., Cincinnati, O. 
 THE MASON MFG. CO., Canton, 0. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 171 
 
 CIDER MILLS AND PRESSES. 
 
 THE HYDRAULIC PRESS CO., ;U) Courtlandt St., New York. 
 
 THE G. J. EMERY CO., Fulton, N. Y. 
 
 E. G. MENDENHALL, Kinmundy, 111. 
 
 BOOMER & BOSCHERT PRESS CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 A. B. FARQUHAR (;0., l^ork. Pa. 
 
 PUFFER-HUBBARD MFG. CO., Minneaj.olis, Minn. 
 
 hydraulic; press go., Mount Giliad, O. 
 
 COOKING UTENSILS. 
 
 LIFETIME ALUMINUM CO., Boston, Mass. 
 
 CORN HUSKERS. 
 
 APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111. 
 
 CORN PLANTERS. 
 
 BELCHER & TAYLOR AGRICULTURAL TOOL CO., Chicopee Falls, Mass. 
 
 CORN TESTER. 
 
 NATIONAL SEED TESTER CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 
 
 ■ CREAM SEPARATORS. 
 
 D. H. BURRELL & CO., Little Falls, N. Y. 
 
 THE DE LAVAL SEPARATOR CO., 165-167 Broadway, New York. 
 
 THE SHARPLESS SEPARATOR CO., West Chester, Pa. 
 
 AMERICAN SEPARATOR CO., Eainbridge N. Y. 
 
 WM. GALLOWAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 
 
 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTP:R CO., Cliicapo, 111. 
 
 THE ROCK ISLAND PLOW CO., Rock Island, 111. 
 
 ALBAUGH-DOVER CO., 2227 Marshall Blvd., Chicago, 111. 
 
 VERMONT FARM MACHINE CO., Bellows Falls. Vt. 
 
 THE STANDARD SEPARATOR CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 RUMLEY PRODUCTS CO., INC., La Porte, Ind. 
 
 EMPIRE CREAM SEPARATOR CO., Bloomfield. N. J. 
 
 CULTIVATORS. 
 
 BATEMAN MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 
 AMERICAN HARROW CO.. Detroit. Mich. 
 JOHN DEER PLOW CO., Moline, 111. 
 ROCK ISLAND PLOW CO., Rock Island, HI. 
 S. L. ALLEN & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 CUT CLOVER. 
 
 W. R. CURTISS CO., Ransomville, N. Y. 
 
 CUTLERY. 
 
 LANDERS, FRARY & CLARK, New Brighton, Conn. 
 
 DAIRY SUPPLIES. 
 
 R. G. WRIGHT & CO., 98 E. Eagle St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
172 THE FAB MERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 DAY-OLD CHICKS. 
 
 EMPIRE POULTRY FARM, Seward, N. Y. 
 
 CONNER'S POULTRY FARM, Angola, N. Y. 
 
 BRANFORD FARMS, Groton, Conn. 
 
 ARTHUR H. PENNY, Mattituck, N. Y. 
 
 WARD W. DASEY, Frankford, Del. 
 
 WINSOR FARM, R. P. D. No. 3. Acushnet Station, New Bedford, Mass 
 
 MICHIGAN POULTRY FARM, Lansing, Mich. 
 
 TENACRE POULTRY FARM, Cedar Grove, Princeton, N. J. 
 
 BELLMOSS POULTRY FARM, Hudson, Mass. 
 
 SHADY HILL POULTRY FARM, Bolton, Mass. 
 
 THE KEER CHICKERY, Frencbtown, N. J. 
 
 JACOB NEIMOND, Richfield, Pa. 
 
 FERNWOOD POULTRY FARM, Salt Point, N. Y. 
 
 DEHORNING SHEARS. 
 
 JOHN W. GRAY & CO., 168 W. 2.3rd St.. New York. 
 M. T. PHILLIPS, Pomeroy, Pa. 
 
 DISINFECTANTS AND LICE EXTERMINATORS. 
 
 CHEMO CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 PARK, DAVIS & CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 DITCHING MACHINES. 
 
 THE BUCKEYE TRACTION DITCHER CO., Findley, O. 
 THE JESCHKE MANUFACTURING CO., Bellevue, O. 
 OWENSBORO DITCHER & GRADER CO., Owensboro, Ky. 
 BAKER-BARROB, INC., Barron Bldg., New York City. 
 
 DOGS. 
 
 Collies. 
 IMNA KENNELS, West Simsburv, Conn. 
 SUNNY BRAE COLLIE KENNELS, Bloomington, III. 
 NELSON'S, Grove City, Pa. 
 
 WHITE STAR KENNELS, Long Branch, N. J. 
 AMERICAN KENNELS, 2.3.3 Third Ave., New York City. 
 
 Great Danes. 
 BOHRER KENNELS, Lynbrook, Long Island. 
 
 Pointers and Setters. 
 THE MIDKIFF KENNELS, Dallos, Pa. 
 
 German Shepherd Dogs. 
 ELMVIEW KENNELS, 333 Connell Bldg., Scranton, Pa. 
 
 Fox Hounds. 
 
 FIELD'S KENNELS, Somers. Conn. 
 
 DRAIN TILE. 
 
 B. G. ABBEY, Allen's Hill, N. Y. 
 
 A. S. CHILDS, Geneva, N. Y. 
 
 JOHN J. JACKSON, Albany, N. Y. 
 
 LYTHE TILE CO., Angola, N. Y. 
 
 NATIONAL FIRE PROOFING CO., Fulton, Bldg., Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 WM. T. LEGGETT CO., Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 PECK & WOOD, E. Bethany, N. Y. 
 
 TOMPKINS BROS., 257 Broadway, New York. 
 
 THE ROBINSON CLAY PRODUCTS CO., Flatiron Bldg., New York. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 173 
 
 ELECTRIC SUPPLIES. 
 
 WESTINGHOUSE ELECTEIC MFG. CO., East Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 ROBERTSON ELECTRIC CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 ENGLISH WALNUT TREES (Hardy in the North.) 
 
 DANIEL N. POMEROY, Lockport, N. Y. 
 J. F. JONES, Lancaster, Pa. 
 
 ENSILAGE CUTTERS. 
 
 KALAMAZOO TANK & SILO CO., Kalamazoo. Mich. 
 
 IRONWOON MFG. CO.. Bellefontaine, O. 
 
 RUMLEY PRODUCTS 00., Elmira, N. Y. 
 
 JOSEPH DICK MFG. CO., Canton, O. 
 
 THE SMALLEY MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 THE SILVER MFG. CO., Salem, O. 
 
 PAPEC MACHINE CO., Shortsville, N. Y 
 
 THE E. W. ROSS CO., Springfield, O. 
 
 EVAPORATING MACHINERY. 
 
 BOUTELL MANUFACTURING CO., 558 Lyell Ave., Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 FARM AGENCIES. 
 
 STATE BOARD OF AGRICULTURE, Dover, Del. 
 
 R. B. CHAFFIN & CO., Inc.. Richmond, Va. 
 
 GREIN & CO., Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 F. MAXON ESTEE, Brisbane Bldg., Buffalo. N. Y. 
 
 J. C. ELLIS, Springvir.r, N. Y 
 
 BALL'S FARM AGENCY, Owego, N. Y. 
 
 PILE & CO., INC., Petersburg, Va. 
 
 J. B. RICE & CO., Warren, O. 
 
 M. R. RICHARDS, Washington, D. C. 
 
 FARM GATES. 
 
 ROWE MFG. CO., Galesburg, 111. 
 KITZLEMAN BROS., Muncie. Ind. 
 CYCLONE FENCE CO., Waukegan, 111. 
 
 FARM TRACTORS. 
 
 BULLOCK TRACTOR CO., Chicago, 111. 
 A. B. FARQUAHR CO.. LTD.. York, Pa. 
 
 EMERSON-BRANTINGHAM IMPLEMENT CO., Rockford, 111. 
 THE HOLT MFG. CO., Peoria, 111. 
 
 BULL TRACTOR CO., 27th and University S. E., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, 111. 
 ELECTRIC WHEEL CO., Quiney. 111. 
 HUBER MFG. CO., Marion. O. " 
 
 FEED IN CAR LOTS. 
 Cotton Seed Meal. 
 THE WILLIAM A. BURNETT CO.. Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Alfalfa Meal. 
 EMPIRE STATE ALFALFA MILLS. Munnsville, N. Y. 
 
174 THE F A R 31 E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Cotton Seed Meal, Linseed, Bran, Etc. 
 THE BABTLETT CO., Jacksou, Mich. 
 
 Molassine Meal. 
 MOLASSINE COMPANY, 331 Board of Trade, Boston, Mass. 
 
 Blatchford's Calf Meal. 
 BLATCHFORD CALF MEAL FACTORY, Waukegan, 111. 
 
 Chick Feed. 
 
 THE H-O COMPANY MILLS, Buffalo. N. Y. 
 
 Dairy, Poultry, Hog and Horse Feed. 
 INTERNATIONAL SUGAR FEED CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 Gluten Feed and Scratch Feed for Chicks. 
 CONTINENTAL CEREAL CO., Peoria, 111. 
 
 Dairy Feed. 
 CLOVER LEAF MILLING CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 FEED COOKERS. 
 
 LEWIS MANUFACTURING CO., Courtland, N. Y. 
 
 FEED GRINDING MILLS. 
 
 THE A. W. STRAUB CO., 3709 S. Ashland Ave., Chicago, 111. 
 THE LETZ MFG. CO., Crown Point, Ind. 
 N. H. BOWSHER, South Bend, Ind. 
 
 FERTILIZERS. 
 
 COLE-MORTIMER CO., 51 Chamber St.. New York City. 
 
 THE CHEMICAL LABORATORIES CO.. Toronto, Can. 
 
 NITRATE AGENCIES CO., 1204 Hartford Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 
 THE MAPES FORMULA & PERUVIAN GUANO CO., 143 Liberty St., N. Y. 
 
 BOWKER FERTILIZER CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 VIRGINIA-CAROLINA CHEMICAL CO., Richmond, Va. 
 
 A. H. CHASE & CO., 965 William St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 FIRE ARMS AND AMMUNITION. 
 
 BAKER GUN CO., Batavia, N. Y. 
 
 ITHACA GUN CO., Ithaca, N. Y. 
 
 IV ER JOHNSON ARMS & CYCLE WORKS, Fitchburg Mass 
 
 MARLIN FIREARMS CO., New Haven, Conn. 
 
 SAVAGE ARMS CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 
 REMINGTON ARMS CO., 299 Broadway, New York 
 
 .J. STEVENS ARMS & TOOL CO.. Chicopee Falls, Mass. 
 
 COLT'S PATENT FIRE ARMS CO., Hartford, Conn. 
 
 THE UNION ARMS CO., 619 Auburndale Ave., Toledo, O. 
 
 FIRELESS COOKERS. 
 
 BUFFALO FIRE EXTINGUISHER CO., 67 Carroll St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 WM. CAMPBELL CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS. 
 
 BUFFALO FIRE EXTINGUISHER CO., 67 Carroll St., Buffalo N. Y. 
 PYRENE MFG. CO., 1358 Broadway, N. Y. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 175 
 
 FLASHLIGHTS. 
 
 AMERICAN EVER-READY WORKS, Long Island City, N. Y. 
 
 FRUIT PICKING BAGS. 
 
 BARKER MFG. CO., 35 Ambrose St., Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 FURS (Buyers.) 
 
 FUNSTON BROS. & CO., 119 Funston Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 ANDERSCH BROS., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 DEAN B. FURST, Lock Haven, Pa. 
 
 M. J. JEWETT & SONS, Redwood, N. Y. 
 
 McMillan fur & wool CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 WARENOFF & KLEIN, 154 W. 24th St., New York. 
 
 L. A. ROBENSTEIN FUR CO., 52 W. 28th St., New York. 
 
 DAVID BLUSTEIN & BRO., 24 E. 12th St., New York. 
 
 GASOLINE AND GAS ENGINES. 
 
 OLIN GASOLINE ENGINE CO., Terrace, Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 WITTE IRON WORKS CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 GRAY MOTOR CO., Detroit Mich. 
 
 SEAGER ENGINE WORKS, Lansing, Mich. 
 
 UNITED STATES ENGINE WORKS, 1504 Canal St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 ELLIS ENGINE CO., Detroit, Mich 
 
 THE THOMPSON CO., Beloit, Wis. 
 
 THE MIDDLEDITCH ENGINE CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 J. B. NORTON CO.. Utica, N. Y. 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM STORES, 612 Stores Bldg., New York. 
 
 OTTAWA MFG. CO., 209 King St., Ottawa, Kan. 
 
 DP]TROIT MOTOR CAR SUPPLY CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 WM. GALLOWAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 
 
 GLOVES. 
 
 O. C. HANSON MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 GRAIN BINS. 
 COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 GRAIN DRILLS. 
 
 HERTZLER & ZOOK CO., Belleville, Pa. 
 PEORIA DRILL & SEEDER CO., Peoria, HI. 
 CROWN MFG. CO., Phelps, N. Y. 
 
 GRAIN SPROUTERS. 
 
 J. W. MILLER CO., Rockford, 111. 
 
 OTIS & MOE MFG. CO.. 2011 Otis Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 
 CLOSE-TO-NATURE CO., Colfax, Iowa. 
 
 DES MOINES INCUBATOR CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 
 
 THE SMITH SPECIALTY CO., Mansfield, O. 
 
 RELIANCE INCUBATOR CO., Freeport, 111. 
 
 BERRY'S POULTRY FARM, Clarinda, Iowa. 
 
 GREENHOUSES. 
 
 LORD & BURNHAM CO., Irvington-on-Hudson, N. Y. 
 JOHN C. MININGER CO., Morbridge Bldg., New York City. 
 
176 TEE F A R M E B S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 GKIND STONES. 
 EICHARDS, WILCOX MFG. CO., Aurora, III. 
 
 HARNESSES. 
 
 AMSEE HARNESS MFG. CO., St. Joseph, Mo. 
 
 JOHN H. SMITH & SONS, 57 Terrace, Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 KING HARNESS CO., Rome, N. Y. 
 
 BROWN, WHITTEN & CO., Pine Bush, N. Y. 
 
 MUTUAL CARRIAGE & HARNESS CO., East St. Louis, 111. 
 
 H. & M. HARNESS SfiOP, St. Joseph, Mo. 
 
 HARROWS OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 S. L. ALLEN CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 CUTAWAY HARROW CO., Higganum. Conn. 
 MONMOUTH PLOW FACTORY, Monmouth, 111. 
 HOWELL-GILMORE MFG. CO., Lomax, 111. 
 
 HAY PRESSES. 
 
 THE AUTO-FEDAN HAY PRESS CO.. Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 RUMLEY PRODUCTS CO.. Elmira, N. Y. 
 
 SANDWICH MANUFACTURING CO., Sandwich, 111. 
 
 COLLINS PLOW CO., Quincv, 111. 
 
 ANN ARBOR MACHINE CO.', Ann Arbor, Mich. 
 
 ADMIRAL HAY PRESS CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 HEATING SYSTEMS. 
 
 AMERICAN RADIATOR CO., Chicr.ffo. 111. 
 
 KALAMAZOO STOVE CO., Kalamazoo. Mich. 
 
 NORTH AMERICAN CONSTRUCTION CO., Bay City, Mich. 
 
 HIDES TANNED; COATS, ROBES AND MITTENS MADE. 
 
 THE CROSBY-FRISIAN FUR CO., 571 Lyell Ave., Rochester, N. Y. 
 SYLVANIA TANNING CO., Sylvania, O. 
 
 HOGS. 
 
 Beri: shires. 
 TOMPKINS FARM, Landsdale, Pa. 
 J. E. WATSON, Marbledale, Conn. 
 ROLLING HILL FARM, E. Norwich, L. L, N. Y. 
 R. Y. BUCKLEY, Brod Axe, Pa. 
 H. C. & H. B. HARPENDING, Dundee, N. Y. 
 M. H. TAYLOR, West Alexander, Pa. 
 
 Chester Whites. 
 EUGENE T. BLACK, Scio, N. Y. 
 VICTOR FARMS, Bellvale, Orange Co., N. Y. 
 EDWARD WALTER, Eureka Stock Farm, West Chester, Pa. 
 
 O. L C. 
 
 HENRY A. STANG, Pearl River, Rockland Co., N. Y. 
 
 VICTOR FARMS, Bellville, Orange Co., N. Y. 
 
 G. S. BENJAMIN, Portland, Mich. 
 
 THE L. B. SILVER CO., 103 Vicars Bldg., Cleveland, O. 
 
 F. B. GARNER, Cincinnatus, N. Y. 
 
 Jersey Reds. 
 
 ARTHUR J. COLLINS, Moorestown, N. J. 
 OAKWOOD FARM, Newburg, N. Y. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 177 
 
 HOG CHOLERA SERUM. 
 
 DIRECTOR OF YOUR EXPERIMENT STATION. 
 
 HOG TROUGHS. 
 
 OAKS & BURGER, Cattaraugus, N. Y. 
 COLUMBIAN STEEL TANK CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 HORSE BLANKETS. 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM STORES, 22 Stores Bldg., New York. 
 
 HORSE CLIPPING MACHINES. 
 
 CHICAGO FLEXIBLE SHAFT CO., La Salle Ave., and Ontario St., Chicago. 
 GILLETTE CLIPPING MACHINE CO., 114 W. 32nd St., New York. 
 
 HOSIERY AND UNDERWEAR. 
 
 CHICAGO-KENOSHA HOSIERY CO., Kenosha, Wis. 
 
 D. E. SICHER & CO., New York. 
 
 HOLEPROOF HOSIERY CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 CHALMERS KNITTING CO., Amsterdam, N, Y, I 
 
 FULD & HATCH KNITTING CO., Albany, N. Y. 
 
 COOPER, WELLS & CO., St. Joseph, Mich. i . 
 
 MeCALLUM HOSIERY CO., Northampton, Mass. ' 
 
 H. B. GLOVER CO., Dubuque, Iowa. 
 
 HOTBED SASH. 
 C. N. ROBINSON & BRO., Baltimore, Md. 
 
 HYDRAULIC RAMS. 
 
 POWER SPECIALTY CO., Ill Trinity Bldg., New York. 
 RIFLE ENGINE CO., 2429 Trinity Bldg., New York. 
 
 ICE TOOLS. 1 
 
 WM. P. PRAY, Verbank, N. Y. 
 
 WISNER MFG. CO., Greenwich St., New York. ; 
 
 INCUBATORS. 
 
 RELIABLE INCUBATOR AND BROODER CO., Quiney, 111. 
 
 X-RAY INCUBATOR CO., Des Moines, Iowa. 
 
 CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 WISCONSIN INCUBATOR CO., Racine, Wis. 
 
 PRAIRIE STATE INCUBATOR CO., Homer City, Pa. 
 
 SURE HATCH INCUBATOR CO., Fremont, Neb. 
 
 ROCKFORD INCUBATOR CO., Rockford, HI. 
 
 RAYO INCUBATOR CO., Omaha, Neb. 
 
 WARSAW INCUBATOR CO., Warsaw, 111. 
 
 M. M. JOHNSON CO., Clay Center, Neb. 
 
 MOLINE PRESSED STEEL CO., E. Moline, 111, 
 
 CORNELL INCUBATOR MFG. CO., Ithaca, N. Y. 
 
 THE BUCKEYE INCUBATOR CO., Springfield, O. 
 
 BURR INCUBATOR CO., Omaha, Neb. 
 
 THE UNITED FACTORIES CO., Cleveland, O. 
 
178 THE F A R M E R 8' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MAMMOTH INCUBATORS. 
 
 THE HALL MAMMOTH INCUBATOR MFG. CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 CANDLE INCUBATOR AND BROODER CO., Eastwood, N. Y. 
 CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 NEWTON GIANT INCUBATOR CO., Harrisonburg, Va. 
 
 IRRIGATION SYSTEMS. 
 
 C. W. SKINNER, Newfield, N. J. 
 SKINNER IRRIGATION CO., Troy, O. 
 
 IRON CORN CRIBS AND BINS. 
 THE IRON CRIB AND BIN CO., Wooster, O. 
 
 LADDERS. 
 
 J. S. TILLEY, Watervliet, N. Y. 
 BACON & CO., Appleton, N. Y. 
 
 LAMPS. 
 
 WHITE FLAME LAMP CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. (Oil.) 
 THE ELECTRIC STORAGE BATTERY CO., Philadelphia, Pa. (Electric.) 
 UNIVERSAL BATTERY CO., 3412 S. La Salle St., Chicago, 111. (Electric.) 
 HOME SUPPLY CO., Kansas City Mo. (Oil.) 
 
 LAND FOR FARM PURPOSES. 
 
 Land in the Canadian Wheat Belt. 
 
 W. D. SCOTT, Superintendent of Immigration, Ottawa, Canada. 
 F. A. HARRISON, 210 N. 3rd St., Harrisburg, Pa. 
 
 U. S, Government Land. 
 
 Write to the General Land Office, Washington, D. C, for pamphlets en- 
 titled, "Suggestions to Homesteaders and Persons Desiring to Make Home- 
 stead Entries," and the last edition of "The Unappropriated Lands in the 
 United States." It may be said, however, in this connection, that, with the 
 exception of the land that has been reclaimed and is sold with water rights, 
 about all the desirable government land has now been taken up. 
 
 Railroad Lands. 
 
 Many railroads have land which they are selling at a low price and on 
 easy terms. Following are the addresses of a few of their agents: 
 WILBUR McCOY, Atlantic Coast Line, Jacksonville, Fla. 
 JOHN SEBASTIAN, 1902 Frisco Bldg., St. Louis, Mo. 
 F. H. LA BAUME, Norfolk and Western Ry., Roanoke, Va. 
 
 C. L. SEAGRAVES, A. T. & S. F. Ry., 2301 Railway Exchange, Chicago, 111. 
 L, H. BELLAH, General Agt., N. C. & St. L. Ry., Nashville, Tenn. 
 
 Farms in the Different States. 
 
 Many of the Eastern states have compiled lists of farms which are un- 
 occupied or for sale. These lists may be obtained free of charge by address- 
 ing the Secretary of Agriculture of the state in which you wish to locate. 
 Nearly every city in the West has a Board of Trade, the secretary of which 
 will be glad to put you in touch with reputable land agents in their vicinity. 
 
 LEATHER BELTING. 
 BICKFORD & FRANCIS BELTING CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 179 
 
 LIFTING DEVICES. 
 
 CHAS. E. BENEFIEL CO., Industrial Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
 LIGHTING COUNTEY HOUSES. 
 
 EDISON STOEAGE BATTERY CO., Orange, N. J. 
 FAIEBANKS, MORSE CO., New York City. 
 AUTOMATIC ELECTRIC WASHER CO., Newton, Iowa. 
 FAY & BOWEN ENGINE CO., Geneva, N. Y. 
 
 LIME. 
 
 THE CARBON LIMESTONE CO., 712 Stamhaugh Bldg., Youngstown, O. 
 
 THE BUFFALO FERTILIZER CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 THE CASPARIS STONE CO., Clinton Bldg., Columbus, O. 
 
 THE KELLY ISLAND LIME AND TRANSPORT CO., Cleveland, O. 
 
 ROCK CUT STONE CO., 531 Union Bldg., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 AMERICAN LIME & STONE CO., Tyrone, Pa. 
 
 THE AGRICULTURAL AND COMMERCIAL LIME CO., Canton, O. 
 
 NATIONAL LIME AND STONE CO., Carey, O. 
 
 EDISON PULVERIZED LIMESTONE CO., 113.3 Broadway, New York. 
 
 ADAMS & DULFUED CO.. Chaumont, N. Y. 
 
 H. J. BURKDORF, St. Johnsville, N. Y. 
 
 CONLEY STONE CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 
 SUGAR EIVEE STONE CO., Boonville, N. Y. 
 
 WOELOCK STONE CO., Canastota, N. Y. 
 
 KELLY ISLAND LIME & TRANSPORT CO., Youngstown, O. 
 
 SECUEITY CEMENT & LIME CO., Berkley, W. Va. 
 
 J. E. BAKER & CO., Bainbridge, Pa. 
 
 CARBON LIMESTONE CO., Youngstown, O. 
 
 EDISON PORTLAND CEMENT CO., Stewartsville, N. J. 
 
 GRANGERS LIME & MARBLE CO., West Stockbridge. Mass. 
 
 BESSEMER LIMESTONE CO., Youngstown, O. 
 
 CHAZY MARBLE LIME CO., Chazy, N. Y. 
 
 N. T. SMITH, Sharon Springs, N. Y. 
 
 LIMESTONE CRUSHERS. 
 
 THE JEFFREY MANUFACTURING CO., Columbus, O. 
 
 WHEELING MOULD & FOUNDEY CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 
 
 NEW HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA CEUSHER CO., Pittsburgh, Pa. 
 
 UNIVEESAL CEUSHEB CO., Cedar Rapids, la. 
 
 WILLIAMS PATENT CEUSHER & PULVERIZEE CO., St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 LIME SPREADERS. 
 
 WOODSDOEO LIME SPEEADEK CO.. Baltimore, Md. 
 
 GEEENWOOD MFG. CO., Lawrence, Mass. 
 
 BELCHER & TAYLOR AGEICULTUEAL TOOL CO., Chicopee Falls, Mass. 
 
 LINENS. 
 
 T. D. WHITNEY & CO., Temple PI. and West St., Boston, Mass. 
 PAEKEE, WILDEE & CO., Boston and New York. 
 
 LUMBER. 
 HOME LUMBER & SUPPLY CO., 343 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, HI. 
 
180 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 MAIL OEDER HOUSES. 
 
 SEAES & EOEBUCK, Chicago, ni. 
 
 MONTGOMERY WARD & CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 LINCOLN, LEONARD & CO., Chicago, 111. • 
 
 THE LARKIN CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 HARTMAN FURNITURE AND CARPET CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 MANURE SPREADERS. 
 
 THE WILLIAM GALEA WAY CO., Waterloo, Iowa. 
 
 THE NEW IDEA SPREADER CO., Coldwater, O. 
 
 APPLETON MFG. CO., Batavia, 111, 
 
 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO. OF AMERICA, Chicago, 111. 
 
 MAPLE SYRUP ARCHES AND EVAPORATORS. 
 
 GRIMM MFG. CO., Cleveland, O. 
 
 McLANE AND SCHANK HARDWARE CO., Linesville, Pa. 
 
 MILKING MACHINES. 
 
 EMPIRE CREAM SEPARATOR CO., Bloomfield, N. J. 
 SHARPLESS SEPARATOR CO., New Castle, Pa. 
 HINMAN MILKING MACHINE CO., Oneida, N. Y. 
 
 MOLASSES FOR STOCK. 
 
 PITTSBURG MOLASSES CO., 706 Penn Ave., Pittsburg, Pa. 
 THE MOORE BROS., Albany, N. Y. 
 
 MOTORCYCLES. 
 
 HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTOR CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 EMBLEM MFG. CO., Angola, N. Y. 
 
 HENDEE MANUFACTURING CO., Springfield, Mass. 
 
 IVER JOHNSON'S ARMS & CYCLE WORKS, Fitchburg, Mass. 
 
 THE MIAMI CYCLE & MFG. CO., Middletown, O. 
 
 NITRATE OF SODA. 
 
 DR. WILLIAM S. MYERS, 25 Madison Ave., New York City. 
 NITRATE AGENCIES CO., 106 Pearl St., New York City. 
 
 NURSERIES. 
 
 ELLW ANGER & BARRY, Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 BROWN BROS., Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 H. S. WILEY & SON, Cayuga, N. Y. 
 
 STARK BROS., Louisiana, Mo. 
 
 MAPLE BEND NURSERY, Perry, O. 
 
 THE BARNES BROS. NURSERY CO., Yalesville, Conn. 
 
 STORES & HARRISON, Painesville, 0. 
 
 NELSON BOGUE, Batavia, N. Y. 
 
 GREEN'S NURSERY CO.. Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 HARRISON'S NURSERIES, Berlin, Md. 
 
 ORCHARD HEATERS. 
 
 THE RICHARDSON FROST PREVENTATION CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 ORCHARD SUPPLY CO., 826 N. Fourth St., St. Louis, Mo. 
 THE HAMILTON ORCHARD HEATER CO., Wheeling, W. Va. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 181 
 
 PAINTS. 
 
 O. W. INGERSOLL, 246 Plymouth St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 SEARS & ROEBUCK, Chicago, 111. 
 
 NATIONAL LEAD & OIL CO., Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 BLACK DIAMOND PAINT AND VARNISH WORKS, Cincinnati, O. 
 
 NEW JERSEY ZINC CO., 55 Wall St., New York City. 
 
 JOHN LUCAS & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 PAINT FOR TREE WOUNDS. 
 
 B. C. PRATT CO., 50 Church St., New York City. 
 
 PAPER TOWELS. 
 
 SCOTT PAPER CO., 720 Glenwood Ave., Philadeli)hia, Pa. 
 
 PARCEL POST BOXES. 
 For Eggs, Day-old Chicks, Dressed Poultry, Etc. 
 
 THE HINDE & DAUCHE PAPER CO., Sandusky, O. 
 
 H. K. BRUMMER, 45 Harrison St., New York City. 
 
 THE A. W. CRAWFORD CO., INC., South Weymouth, Mass. 
 
 THE ANDREWS PAPER BOX CO., Chattanooga, Tenn. 
 
 JOHN W. GRAY & CO., 168 W. 23rd St., New York City. 
 
 TYWACANA FARMS POULTRY CO., Farmingdale, L. I., N. Y. 
 
 PERIODICALS. 
 The Leading Farm Papers. 
 
 THE RURAL NEW-YORKER, New York City. 
 
 COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 FARM JOURNAL, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 HOARD'S DAIRYMAN, Ft. Atkinson, Wis. 
 
 IOWA HOMESTEAD, Des Moinea, Iowa. 
 
 NATIONAL STOCKMAN AND FARMER, Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 NEW ENGLAND HOMESTEAD, Springfield, Mass. 
 
 OHIO FARMER, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 The Best Story Paper. 
 THE YOUTH'S COMPANION, Boston, Mass. 
 
 PHOSPHATE ROCK. 
 
 FEDERAL CHEMICAL CO., Columbia. Tenn. 
 ROBIN JONES PHOSPHATE CO., Nashville, Tenn. 
 
 PIANOS. 
 
 IVERS & POND PIANO CO., 131 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 
 REED & SONS, Jackson Blvd. and Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 
 J. B. THIERY, Milwaukee, Wis. 
 WING & SON, New York City. 
 CORNISH CO., Washington, N. J. 
 
 PLOWS. 
 
 GOWANDA PLOW CO.. Gowanda, N. Y. 
 JOHN DEER CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 HAPGOOD PLOW CO., Alton, III. 
 
182 TEE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 PORTABLE POULTRY HOUSES. 
 
 PEEFECTION POKTABLE POULTEY HOUSE CO., 4038 N. Cal. Ave., Chicago 
 
 E. F. HODGSON CO., 116 WasMngton St., Boston, Mass. 
 THE MILLEE MFG. CO., 8001 Alabama St., St. Louis, Mo. 
 T. P. POTTEE & CO., Downers Grove, 111. 
 
 POTASH FOR FERTILIZERS. 
 GEARAN KALI WORKS, Inc., 42 Broadway, New York. 
 
 POTATO PLANTERS AND DIGGERS. 
 
 CHAMPION POTATO MACHINERY CO., Hammond, Ind. 
 BATEMON MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 
 EUREKA MOWER CO., Utica, N. Y. 
 S. L. ALLEN & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 ASPINWALL MFG. CO., Jackson, Mich. 
 
 POULTRY, EGGS FOR HATCHING AND DAY-OLD CHICKS. 
 
 CONNER'S POULTEY FARM, Angola, N. Y. 
 
 THE RANCOCAS POULTEY FAEM, Brown's Mills-In-The-Pines,, N. J. 
 
 THE COENING EGG FAEM, Bound Brook, N. J. 
 
 BRANFORD FARMS, Groton, Conn. 
 
 G. F. GIBSON. Clyde, N. Y. 
 
 SUNNY MEAD FARMS, Millstone, N. J. 
 
 ARTHUR H. PENNY, Mattituck, N. Y. 
 
 THE EVERLAY FARM, Methuen, Mass. 
 
 MOHEGAN FARM POULTEY PLANT, Mohegan Lake. N. Y. 
 
 JOHN H. WAEFEL & SON, Eohrerston. Pa. 
 
 SUMMIT POULTRY FARM, Ridgely, Md. 
 
 S. L. PARDIE, Genoa, N. Y. 
 
 LAUEELTON FA EMS, Lakewood, N. J. 
 
 C. W. TUENEE, West Hartford, Conn. 
 
 POULTRY FOUNTAINS. 
 
 THE CYPHERS INCUBATOR CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 OTIS & MOE MFG. CO.. 2001 Otis Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 
 C. A. S. FOEGE WOEKS, Saranac, Mich. 
 
 WENDELL INCUBATOE CO.. Holly, Mich. 
 
 IDEAL CAN CO.. 147 N. Washino^ton St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 PAGE POULTEY SUPPLY CO., Rockford, HI. 
 
 THE OAKS MFG. CO.. Tipton, Ind. 
 
 POULTRY LITTER. 
 
 O. K. COMPANY, 1.^57 Water St.. New York City. 
 
 POULTRY PAPERS. 
 
 AMERICAN POITLTRY JOTTRNAL, .542 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, HI. 
 WESTERN POULTRY JOURNAL, Cedar Rapids, la. 
 AMERICAN POULTRY ADVOCATE, Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 POWER PUMPS OF LARGE CAPACITY. 
 
 SNOW STEAM PUMP WORKS. Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 PUMPS. 
 
 THE GOULD MFG. CO., Seneca Palls, N. Y. 
 
 F. E. MYERS & BRO., Ashland, Ohio. 
 TEMPLE PUMP CO.. 109 Meager St.. Chicago. HI. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 183 
 
 RASPBERRIES. 
 
 WM. ALLEN, Salisbury, Md. 
 
 WILLETT & WHEELOCK, N. Collins, N. Y 
 
 L. J. FAEMER, Pulaski, N. Y. 
 
 JOSEPH H. BLACK, SON & CO., Hightstown, N. J. 
 
 T. B. WEST, Perry, O. 
 
 REFRIGERATORS. 
 
 MONROE REFRIGERATOR CO., Lockland, Ohio. 
 McCRAY REFRIGERATOR CO., Kendallville, Ind. 
 SEARS & ROEBUCK, Chicago, 111. 
 
 ROAD MACHINERY. 
 
 OWENSBORO DITCHER & GRADER CO., INC., Owensboro, Ky. 
 GLIDE ROAD MACHINE CO., Minneapolis, Minn. 
 
 ROOFING MATERIALS. 
 
 THE UNITED FACTORIES CO., Cleveland, O. 
 
 THE EDWARDS MFG. CO., Cincinnati, O. 
 
 H. W. JOHNS-MANVILLE CO.. Chicago, 111. 
 
 BIRD & SON, East Walpole, Mass. 
 
 W. L. McCARRON & CO., 286 Dickey Bldg., Chicago, 111. 
 
 THE OHIO GALVANIZING & MFG. CO.", Niles, O. 
 
 AMERICAN SHEET &- TIN PLATE CO., Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 THE AMERICAN IRON ROOFING CO., Middleton, O. 
 
 SYKES METAL LATH & ROOFING CO., Warren, O. 
 
 AMERICAN ROLLING MILL CO., Middleton, O. 
 
 RUBBER BOOTS. 
 
 UNITED STATES RUBBER CO., New York City. 
 
 SAW MILLS. 
 
 A. B. FARQTTHAR CO., LTD., York, Pa. 
 
 AMERICAN SAW MILL MACHINERY CO., Hacketstown, N. 
 
 ENTERPRISE MFG. CO., Columbus, Ohio. 
 
 SCALES, FARM. 
 
 JONES OF BINGHAMTON, Binghamton, N. Y. 
 THE BUFFALO SCALE CO., Buflfalo, N. Y. 
 FAIRBANKS COMPANY. New York City. 
 AMERICAN SCALE CO., Kansas City, Mo. 
 
 SEEDS OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 PETER HENDERSON & CO., New York Citv. 
 WILLIAM MAULE, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 HENRY DREER, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 SALZER SEED CO., La Crosse, Wis. 
 THE STORES & HARRISON CO., Paiuesville, Ohio. 
 W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 EDWARD F. DIBBLE, Hoveove Falls, N. Y. 
 J. J. H. GREGORY & SONS, Marblehead, Mass. 
 
 SHEEP MANURE. PULVERIZED, 
 
 NATURAL GUANO CO.. Aurora, 111. 
 
184 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 SHTNGLE DIPS AND STAINS. 
 
 STANDAED STAINED SHINGLE CO., N. Toiiawanda, N. Y. 
 SAMUEL CABOT, INC., 8 Oliver St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 SHIPPING COOPS. 
 
 THE SEFTON MFG. CO., 1329 W. 35th St., Chicago, 111. 
 
 SHOW COOPS. 
 
 NIEMANN BEOS. MFG. CO., Mt. Olive, 111. 
 WAENEE, "THE COOPMAN," Allegan, Mich. 
 
 SILOS. 
 
 INDIANA SILO CO., Anderson, Ind. 
 
 GUEENSEY CLAY CO., Odd Fellows' Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind. 
 
 FAEMEES' HANDY WAGON CO., Saginaw, Mich. 
 
 CEEAMEEY PACKAGE CO., Eutland, Vt. 
 
 E. W. BOSS CO., Springfield, O. 
 
 THE NAPPANEE LUMBEE & MFG. CO., Nappanee, Ind. 
 
 ECONOMY SILO MFG. CO., Frederick, Md. 
 
 INTEENATIONAL SILO CO., Linesville, O. 
 
 THE STEVENS TANK & TOWEE CO., Auburn, Me. 
 
 THE PUFFEE-HUBBAED MFG. CO., Des Moines, la. 
 
 UNADILLA MFG. CO., Unadilla, N. Y. 
 
 THE W. L. SCOTT LUMBEE CO., Norwich, N. Y. 
 
 HAEDEE MFG. CO., Cobleskill, N. Y. 
 
 NATIONAL FIEE PEOOFING CO., Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 WOODS SILO & MFG. CO., Lincoln, Neb. 
 
 INTEENATIONAL SILO CO., Linesville, Pa. 
 
 SILVEEWAEE. 
 
 INTEENATIONAL SILVEE CO., Meriden, Conn. 
 
 ONEIDA COMMUNITY, LTD., Oneida, N. Y. 
 
 THE HOLMES & EDWAEDS SILVEE CO., Bridgeport, Conn. 
 
 SPRAYING MACHINES (POWER). 
 
 AIE-TIGHT STEEL TANK CO., 30 Gloster St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 BATEMAN MFG. CO., Greenloch, N. J. 
 
 BEAN SPEAY PUMP CO., Lansing Mich. 
 
 BENNETT SPBAYEE <Sr ENGINE CO., Medina, O. 
 
 THE E. C. BEOWN CO., Eochester, N. Y. 
 
 CUSHMAN SPEAYEE CO.. St. Joseph, Mo. 
 
 THE DEMING CO., Salem, O. 
 
 DEYO-MACEY ENGINE CO., Binghamton, N. Y. 
 
 DOMESTIC ENGINE & PUMP CO., Shippensburg, Pa. 
 
 FIELD FORCE PUMP CO., Elmira, N. Y. 
 
 FEIEND MFG. CO., Gasport, N. Y. 
 
 THE GOULDS MFG. CO., Seneca Falls, N. Y. 
 
 THE HAEDIE MFG. CO., Hudson, Mich. 
 
 HAYES PUMP & PLANTEE CO., Galva, 111. 
 
 THE H. L. HUEST CO., Canton, O. 
 
 LE EOY PLOW CO., LeRoy, N. Y. 
 
 MOEEILL & MORLEY MFG. CO., Benton Harbor, Mich. 
 
 E. E. MYEES & SON, Ashland, O. 
 
 EOCHESTEE SPEAY PUMP CO., Eochester, N. Y. 
 
 THE STAHL SPEAYEE CO., Quincy, 111. 
 
 SPEAY MOTOE WOEKS, 326 Erie St., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 185 
 
 SPRAY MATERIAL, MANUFACTURERS AND WHOLESALERS. 
 
 ANSBACKEK & CO., 253 Broadway, New York City. 
 
 APHINE MFG. CO., Madison, N. .1. (Aphine). 
 
 BOWKER INSECTICIDE CO., 43 Chatham St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 THE DOW CHEMICAL CO., Midland, Mich. 
 
 FERGUSON BROS., 109 Chestnut St.. Philadelphia, Pa. (Copper Sulphate). 
 
 GOOD, JAMES, 934-941 N. Front St., Phila.. Pa. (Fish Oil Soap). 
 
 GRASSELLI CHEMICAL CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 HEMINWAY'S LONDON PUEPLE CO., 133 Front St., New York City. 
 
 HORTICULTURAL CHEMICAL CO., 12th and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia, Pa,. 
 
 KENTUCKY' TOBACCO PRODUCT CO., Louisville, Ky. 
 
 FRED L. LAVANBURG, 100 William St., New York City. 
 
 MECHLING BROS. MFG. CO., Camden, N. J. 
 
 MERRIMAC CHEMICAL CO., 33 Broad St., Boston, Mass. 
 
 NIAGARA SPRAYING CO., Middleport, N. Y. 
 
 PRATT & CO., B. G., .50 Church St., New Y'ork City 
 
 SHERWIN WILLIAMS PAINT CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 TAYLOR, E. R., Penn Yan, N. Y. (Fuma Carbon Bi-sulphid). 
 
 THOMSON CHEMICAL CO., Baltimore, Md. 
 
 THUM, O. & W. CO., Grand Rapids, Mich. (Sticky materials for tree banding) „ 
 
 TYSON, E. C, Floradale, Pa. (General Sales Agent for Spray Materials). 
 
 VREELAND CHEMICAL CO., 50 Church St., New York City. 
 
 STANCHIONS. 
 
 C. H. ROBERTSON, Forestville, Conn. 
 FOSTER STEEL STANCHION CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
 THE WASSON STANCHION CO., Cuba, N. Y. 
 WALLACE R. CRUMB, Forestville, Conn. 
 WARSAW-WILKINSON CO., Warsaw, N. Y. 
 LOUDEN MACHINERY CO., Fairfield, Iowa. 
 HUNT-HELM-FERRIS CO., Harvard, 111. 
 J. E. PORTER CO., Ottawa, III. 
 HARRIS MFG. CO., Salem, O. 
 
 STONE CRUSHERS. 
 
 AUSTIN MANUFACTURING CO., Chicago, 111. 
 ALLIS CHALMERS MFG. CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 T. L. SMITH CO., 1126-C, 32nd St., Milwaukee. Wis. 
 NEW HOLLAND MACHINE CO., New Holland, Pa. 
 
 STOVES. 
 
 HOOSIER STOVE CO., Marion, Ind. 
 
 THE IMPERIAL STEEL RANGE CO., Cleveland, O. 
 
 KALAMAZOO STOVE CO., Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 MALLEABLE IRON CO., Beaver Dam, Wis. 
 
 MAJESTIC MFG. CO.. St. Louis, Mo. 
 
 MARVIN SMITH & CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 GOLD COIN STOVE CO., Troy, N. Y. 
 
 MICHIGAN STOVE CO., Detroit, Mich. 
 
 STRAWBERRY PLANTS. 
 
 R. M. KELLOGG & CO., Three Rivers, Mich. 
 
 WILLETT & WHEELOCK. North Collins, N. Y. 
 
 WM. ALLEN, Salisbury, Md. 
 
 JACOB BUZENBURG, Brant, N. Y. 
 
 ALLEN BROS.. Paw Paw, Mich. 
 
 J. W. ALLEN & SON, Allen, Md. 
 
 C. S. KEMPTON, Longmeadow, Mass. 
 
186 TEE F A li M E R S' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 STUMP PULLERS. 
 
 ZIMMEEMAN STEEL CO., Lone Tree, la. 
 HERCULES MFG. CO., Centerville, la. 
 MILNE MFG. CO., Monmouth, IJl. 
 W. J. FITZPATEICK, Seattle, Wash. 
 
 TANKS. 
 A. J. CORCORAN, Inc., 192 Broadway, New York. 
 
 TANK HEATERS. 
 NELSON MFG. CO., Deerfield, Wis. 
 
 TAJSTNERS. 
 
 LOGANSPORT ROPE & TANNERY CO., Logansport, Ind. 
 THE PELOQUIN FUR TANNING CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
 SYLVANIA TANNING CO., Sylvania, O. 
 NATIONAL TANNING CO., Des Moines, la. 
 
 TELEPHONES. 
 
 STROMBERG CARLSON TEL. MFG. CO., Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 TENTS AND CANVAS HOUSES. 
 
 CLOSE-TO-NATURE CO., 374 Front St., Colfax, Iowa. 
 HETTRICK BROS. CO., Toledo, Ohio. 
 
 THRESHING MACHINES. 
 
 BUFFALO PITTS CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER CO., Chicago, 111. 
 A. B. FARQUAHR CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 TREE BANDS. 
 
 THE O. & W. THUM CO., Grand Rapids. Mich. 
 
 TURKEYS. 
 
 VALLEY VIEW POULTRY FARM, Belleville, Pa. 
 
 S. DURIGG & SON, Armstrongs Mills, Ohio. 
 
 MISS JOSEPHINE CARPENTER, Grouvenir, N. Y. 
 
 H. J. VAN DYKE, Gettysburg, Pa. 
 
 H. D. WITHROW, Dublin, Va. 
 
 H. W. ANDE,RSON, Stewartstown, Pa. 
 
 W. L. BURNETT, Montgomery, N. Y. 
 
 VACUUM CLEANERS. 
 
 ANCHOR MFG. CO., Dayton, O. 
 
 DUNTLEY MFG. CO., 650 Main St.. Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 VARNISH. 
 
 CENTURY VARNISH CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 PRATT & LAMBERT, INC., Buffalo, N. Y. 
 
 WAGONS. 
 
 ELECTRIC WHEEL CO., Quincy, 111. 
 
 STUDEBAKER, South Bend, Ind. 
 
 HAVANA METAL WHEEL CO.. Havana, 111. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 187 
 
 WAGON SPRINGS. 
 HARVEY SPRING CO., Racine, Wis. 
 
 WASHING MACHINES, POWER. 
 
 LEADER IRON WORKS, Owego, N. Y. 
 
 KALAMAZOO MFG. CO., Kalamazoo, Mich. 
 
 THE MEADOWS MEG. CO., Pontiac, 111. (Electric). 
 
 WESTERN ELECTRIC CO., 423 West St., New York (Electric). 
 
 DODGE & ZUILL, Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 WATER SYSTEMS. 
 
 MILWAUKEE AIR POWER CO., Milwaukee, Wis. 
 
 FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., New York City. 
 
 LEADER IRON WORKS, Owego, N. Y. 
 
 MISSOURI WATER & STEAM SUPPLY 00.. St. Joseph, Mo. 
 
 GOULDS MFG. CO., Seneca Falls, N. Y. 
 
 NORTH AMERICAN CONSTRUCTION CO., Bay City, Mich. 
 
 KEWANEE WATER SUPPLY CO., Kewanee, 111. 
 
 POWER SPECIALTY CO., Trinity Bldg., New York. 
 
 WATER TOWERS. 
 
 THE BALTIMORE CO.. Baltimore, Mel. 
 
 WATER WHEELS. 
 
 THE FITZ WATER WHEEL CO., Hanover, Pa. 
 
 WELL DRILLING MACHINERY. 
 
 WILLIAMS BROS., Ithaca. N. Y. 
 
 LOOMIS MFG. CO., Tiffin, O. 
 
 KEYSTONE WATER DRILL CO., Beaver Falls, Pa. 
 
 LISLE MFG. CO., Clarinda, la. 
 
 GUSPEACH FOUNDRY & MACHINERY CO., La Mars, la. 
 
 WHITE LEAD. 
 
 NATIONAL LEAD CO., New York Citv. 
 
 ACME WHITE LEAD & COLOR WORKS. Detroit, Mich. 
 
 WIND MILLS. 
 
 AREOMOTOR CO., Chicago, 111. 
 
 MISSOURI WATER & STEAM SUPPLY CO., St. Joseph, Mo. 
 
 STOVER MFG. CO., Freeport, 111. 
 
 WIRE FENCING. 
 
 KITSELMAN BROS., Muncie, Ind. 
 UP-TO-DATE MFG. CO., Terre Haute, Ind. 
 INTERLOCKING FENCE CO.. Morton, 111. 
 COILED SPRING FENCE CO., Winchester, Ind. 
 THE BROWN FENCE & WIRE CO., Cleveland, O. 
 WARD FENCE CO., Decatur, 111. 
 PEERLESS WIRE FENCE CO., Adrian, Mich. 
 AMERICAN STEEL & WIRE CO., Chicas^o, 111. 
 THE BOND STEEL POST CO., Adrian, Mich. 
 CYCLONE FENCE CO., Waukegan. HI. 
 THE MASON FENCE CO., Leesburg, O. 
 
188 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 GLOSSARY. 
 
 Acid — A sour substance that will turn blue litmus paper red. 
 
 Alkali — A caustic substance that will neutralize acids and turn 
 red litmus paper blue ; as lye. 
 
 Ammonia — A gaseous nitrogen compound which escapes when 
 substances containing it decay. 
 
 Available Plant Food — Substances that can be used as food by 
 plants. 
 
 Bacteria — Minute vegetable organisms found in the soil and else- 
 where. 
 
 Balanced Ration — A food containing the proper proportions of 
 protein, carbohydrates and fat. 
 
 Biennial — A plant that lives two years and then dies. 
 
 Blight — A diseased condition of plants often due to bacteria. 
 
 Bordeaux Mixture — A water solution of lime and eopper sul- 
 phate used to destroy fungi. 
 
 Bud — An undeveloped branch. 
 
 Calcium — An element, the chief constituent of lime. 
 
 Calcium Carbonate — Native limestone. 
 
 Carbohydrates — Foods containing carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. 
 The last two in the proportion to form water; as sugars and starch. 
 
 Carbonic Acid Gas — A gas composed of carbon and oxygen. It 
 is breathed out by animals and breathed in by plants. 
 
 Carbon — An element; charcoal is nearly pure carbon. 
 
 CatcJi Crop — A crop planted late in the season to take the place 
 of some other crop that is a failure, or when the farmer finds that he 
 will not have enough fodder for his stock. Millet is one of the principal 
 catch crops. 
 
 Compost — A rotting mixture of different fertilizing materials. 
 
 Concentrates — Rich feeding materials; as grains and meals. 
 
 Cover Crop — A crop sown to furnish a mulch or green manure; 
 as buckwheat in an orchard, or rye sown in the fall to plow under in 
 the spring. 
 
 Cocoon — A case made by an insect in which to pass the pupa 
 state. 
 
 Curculio — A kind of beetle or wee\al. 
 
 Dormant — Not growing; as trees in winter. 
 
 Element — One of the elementary substances which make up the 
 earth's crust. 
 
 Ensilage — The feed that is preserved in a silo. 
 
 Evaporate — Changing to a vapor and passing off in the air. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 189 
 
 FcrmentaMon — The cliange produced by yeast. 
 
 Fertile — Being fruitful ; yielding good crops. 
 
 Formalin — A forty per cent solution of formaldehyde. 
 
 Fungicide- — A substance that will kill or check the growth of fungi. 
 
 Fimgus {plural fungi) — A fiowerless plant lacking the green 
 color. They are often microscopic and cause the moulds and blights. 
 
 Germs — Microscopic organisms which cause disease, fermentation, 
 decay, etc. 
 
 Germinate — To sprout. 
 
 Gestation- — Period of carrying the unborn young. 
 
 Girdle— To cut a groove around the trunk or limb of a tree. 
 
 Gluten — A vegetable form of protein found in cereals. 
 
 Grade Cattle — A cross between a pure-bred animal and one of 
 the common or mixed breed. 
 
 Heredity — The resemblance of oifspring to parent. 
 
 Hibernating — To pass the winter in a dormant, inactive state. 
 
 Humus — Decaying vegetable or animal matter. 
 
 Hybrid — The result of breeding two different kinds of plants or 
 animals together. 
 
 Hydrogen — One of the elements; found in water and in all living 
 thing.s. 
 
 Liicuhaie — To hatch by any means. 
 
 Inoculate — To supply bacteria. 
 
 Insecticide — A substance to destroy insects. 
 
 Kainit — A salt containing potash salt, rained in Stassfurt, Ger- 
 many. 
 
 Kerosene Emulsion — A spraying solution consisting of kerosene 
 oil, soap and water. 
 
 Lactic Acid — The acid formed when milk sours. 
 
 Larva — Young insects in the grub stage. 
 
 Legumes — Plants belonging to the clover family ; as alfalfa, clover, 
 peas, soy beans, etc. 
 
 Loam — Soil containing considerable organic matter. 
 
 Mildew — A cobweblike growth of fungi on plants or decaying 
 matter. 
 
 Mulch — A light covering of leaves, straw, fine dust, or other sub- 
 stances. 
 
 Nitrate — A salt containing nitrogen ; all nitrates are soluble. 
 
 Nitrogen — An element; it forms nearly four-fifths of the air; is 
 essential to plant and animal life. 
 
 Nodules — Small bunches or masses formed by bacteria. 
 
 Nutrient — A food substance. 
 
190 THE FARMERS' GUIDE BOOK 
 
 Organic Matter — Substance produced by life either animal or 
 vegetable. 
 
 Osmosis — The interchange of gases or liquids through thin ani- 
 mal membranes. 
 
 Oxidation — Combining with oxygen. 
 
 Oxygen — A gaseous element present in the air and necessary to 
 sustain life. 
 
 Perennials — Plants living from year to year ; as trees. 
 
 Pliosphonc Acid — A phosphorus compound found in bones and 
 in some rocks. 
 
 Potash — A potassium compound necessary for plant growth. 
 
 Propagate — To increase in numbers. 
 
 Protein — Food substances that contain nitrogen. 
 
 Pure Bred — Animals with marked characteristics bred for many 
 generations without introducing other blood. 
 
 Ration — The daily allowance of food for an animal. 
 
 Rotation of Crops — A succession of different crops on the same 
 field. 
 
 Roughage — Coarse feed ; such as hay, straw, or cornstalks. 
 
 Scion — A shoot, sprout, or branch used in grafting upon another 
 plant. 
 
 Seed Bed — The earth in which the seed is sown. 
 
 Silage — Food preserved in a silo. 
 
 Sire — Father. 
 
 Smut — A fungus disease of plants causing a powdery mass. 
 
 Spores — The microscopic seeds of fungus plants ; they differ from 
 true seeds in having no embryo. 
 
 Sport or Mutation — An unusual fruit or plant ; as, a white squash 
 on a Hubbard vine. They are one of the sources of new varieties. 
 
 Sterilize — To kill all germs. 
 
 Stover — Cornstalks with the ears taken off. 
 
 Tillage — Preparing the land for crops. 
 
 Transplant — To move plants from one soil to another. 
 
 Ventilate — To supply fresh air. 
 
USEFUL FACTS AND RULES FOR FARMING 191 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Advantages and Disadvantages of Farm Life 7 
 
 Alfalfa 29 
 
 Bees and Bee-Keeping 59 
 
 Buckwheat 45 
 
 Bujdng a Farm 9 
 
 Calves Ill 
 
 Cement and Concrete 80 
 
 Commission Merchants 164 
 
 Corn 39 
 
 Cornell Poultry Rations 91 
 
 Cow Troubles and Their Kemedies 103 
 
 Currants 53 
 
 Drainage 14 
 
 Farmers ' Bulletins 133 
 
 Feeding Dairy Cattle 115 
 
 Fertilizers 17 
 
 Flowers 57 
 
 Forestry 76 
 
 Fungicides and Insecticides 148 
 
 General ' ' Don 'ts ' ' for Farmers 130 
 
 Glossary 188 
 
 Government Labor Bureaus 128 
 
 Grain Eations for Milk Production 123 
 
 Hay Crop, The 45 
 
 How to Remove Stains 153 
 
 Identification of Fruit 137 
 
 Improving the Farm Without Commercial Fertilizers or Barnyard Manure 23 
 
 Lime 25 
 
 Live Stock Registry Associations 137 
 
 Manures 21 
 
 Maple Sugar Making 87 
 
 Market Gardening 54 
 
 Method for Balancing a Ration for Dairy Cows 117 
 
 Milk lOi) 
 
 Oats 43 
 
 Orchard, The 65 
 
 Pasture, The 74 
 
 Pertinent Questions for Farmers' Wives 83 
 
 Potatoes 33 
 
 Poultry Troubles and Their Remedies 96 
 
 Profitable Dairying 100 
 
 Profitable Hog Raising 125 
 
 Profitable Poultry Raising 89 
 
 Raspberries 51 
 
 Silos and Silage 120 
 
 State Experiment Stations 132 
 
 Strawberry Culture 47 
 
 Tables, I-X 139 
 
 Tested Recipes 154 
 
 Useful Formulas 151 
 
 Weeds 70 
 
 Wheat 44 
 
 Where to Buy 168 
 
 Where to Go for Advice 132 
 
LiBKAKV Ol- CUrNUKE^dS 
 
 DDDE5ab2EE3