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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 
 
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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR MAKING 
 
 FRENCH RAISED 
 
 WORSTED WORK. 
 
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 Copyright 18$0, by Hattie B. Ellis. 
 
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DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR MAKING 
 
 FRENCH RAISED WORK 
 
 The piece I propose to teach is a lamp mat, sixteen 
 inches square, with about forty flowers in ten varieties. — 
 The materials required are a light frame, sixteen inches in- 
 side, wound with cloth ; a piece of black velvet or broad- 
 cloth, sixteen inches square : a spool of No. 200; and 
 one of No. 60 cotton ; one quarter of a yard of thick white 
 fiannel ; about one hundred and fifty knots of worsted, con- 
 sisting of six knots of p2arl white, and nine shales of red, 
 orange, purple, crimson, gas green, yellow green, and four of 
 blue. It is better to have twelve shades of orange and red. 
 
 Let each color be shaded down, from the lightest to the 
 darkest possible. If you cannot get the lower shades of 
 orange, there are three or four shades of the darker scarlets 
 that will do ; one knot of each of the two darkest shades of 
 each color. Of the remainder, obtain mostly medium 
 
 shades.' 
 
 Sew the velvet or broadcloth on to the frame. Find the 
 centre of the mat, and mark a square or circle the size you 
 want the centre, where there are to be no flowers. 
 
 To start on this work, place a dahlia in each corner of 
 the mat, each of which will form the centre of a bouquet. 
 
 First, we will make the 
 
2 PURPLE DAHLIA. 
 
 Measure off two yards of each of the nine shades of pur- 
 ple. At one end put the threads side by side, beginning 
 with the darkest, and shading to the lightest. Lay it over 
 the forefinger of the left hand, with (he lightest thread 
 towards the end of the finger, holding the ends from you 
 with the second finger, and the other side with the thumb; 
 have ready needle and fine cotton. 
 
 Make a tape of the worsted, (See fig. 1 ,) by passing the 
 needle through, from the light to the dark side on the top, 
 taking up as little of the threads of worsted as possible ; 
 now put the needle in on the dark side as near as possible 
 to where you took it out, then pass it to the light side, 
 about one-fourth inch from where you began, drawing up 
 the tape to about one-half inch in width. Sew the whole 
 tape in this way, passing the nee lie back and forth. 
 
 Now cut patterns for the petals, (Sec fig. 2.) Take a piece 
 of paper the width of the tape and cut off a piece two and 
 one-fourth inches long. Slant each end so the shorter side 
 will be one and three-fourths inches long. Another one and 
 one-half inches on one side, and one inch on the other. Now, 
 three sizes between the two. Lay the pattern on the tape with 
 the shorter side on the darkest shade every time, although 
 it wastes some worsted. Cut nine like the longest, which 
 we will call No. 1, eight like No. 2, seven like No. 3, six 
 like No. 4, and four like No. 5, If your tape should be 
 wider or narrower you can vary the number of petals. 
 
PURPLE DAHLIA. 3 
 
 Take one of the longest pieces, with the right side up, and 
 the shortest side toward you ; pass the needle threaded with 
 No. 60 cotton through all the ends of the worsted, from the 
 shorter to the longer side. Draw it tight, holding the piece 
 between the thumb and finger to prevent its drawing out. 
 Pass the needle back, and through the other end and back, 
 allowing the middle of the longer side to fold under, making 
 the middle of the dark thread come to a point ; pass the 
 needle through both ends and draw tightly ; sew two or 
 three stitches to hold it, and you have a good imitation of a 
 dahlia petal. (See fig. 3.) 
 
 Make each petal in the same way, being careful in all the 
 work to hide the cotton. Now, cut twelve rounds of flannel, 
 the largest the size of a silver dollar, and the smallest the 
 size of a dime, graduating the sizes between the two. Put 
 them on the corner of the mat in a pile, the smallest on 
 the top, the middle being two and three-fourths inches 
 from each side. Sew on with strong cotton. Pass the 
 needle from underneath the mat, up through the cloth and 
 middle of the flannel ; then down, just outside the flannel, 
 up again through the middle, and down on the opposite 
 side ; in this way divide it in quarters. 
 
 Now put on the petals. First the nine largest around 
 the flannel just on the edge, taking one stitch in each, just 
 where they are sewed, and one stitch at the point of the 
 petal to catch it on the cloth, taking care to hide the cotton. 
 
4 PURPLE DAHLIA. 
 
 Next put on No. 2 around close to the first row so to hide 
 the flannel ; only the first row is to be caught down by 
 the points. Put on the other rows just far enough apart to 
 hide the flannel when done. Do not crowd to get on all the 
 petals, for if you have too many you can keep them for buds. 
 Now take yellow worsted in a needle, pass from the un- 
 der to the upper side in the centre of the dahlia, twisting 
 three or four inches from the end next the dahlia ; drop 
 your hand in which you hold it, letting it twist on itself. — 
 Making two or three twists in this way, pass the needle 
 down and up to make the centre. 
 
 DAHLIA BUD. 
 
 Make a Bud in the corner. Put two or three petals on 
 the cloth, the sewed ends close together; lap two green 
 leaves (made like the dahlia petals) over the end where 
 they are sewed, so that just the dark point of the purple 
 shows. With green worsted in the needle, take three 
 stitches through the green leaves and cloth, to hide where 
 they are sewed. Catch down the point of the green leaves 
 and make a little stem with green worsted, to connect it 
 with the dahlia. Next, put on the other dahlias. Alight yel- 
 low at the right hand corner of this one, and a dark orange 
 at the left, and a dark red one opposite the purple one— 
 Now we will make a 
 
WHITE ROSE. 
 
 T?ke nine threads of pearl white worsted and sew the 
 same as for dahlia. Cut pattern No. I two and one-fourth 
 inches on one side, and one inch on the other. No. 2 one 
 and three-fourths inches on one side and three-fourths on 
 the other. No. 3 one and one-fourth inches on one side, 
 and one-half inch on the other. Cut eight line No 1, 
 eighteen like No. 2, and four like No. 3. In making up. 
 allow the longer side to nearly form a circle around the 
 shorter. (See fig. 4.) 
 
 Cut six rounds of flannel ; two somewhat larger than a 
 quarter of a dollar, and the rest smaller. Place them 
 on the cloth with the centre about four inches from the 
 dahlia. Cut a larger piece of flannel and put above these, 
 sewing it around the edge, but do not draw it tightly over the 
 other pieces. Place around this the largest eight petals, 
 letting them round up a little in the centre. Next place the 
 second row, leaving out two petals on the side next the dark 
 orange dahlia, in order to throw the centre of the rose on 
 one side. Then the third row leaving out two petals at the 
 top. If there are any petals left, place where needed 
 most. Now place the four small ones and let them stand 
 up, that they may fold over the centre a little. 
 
 If you wish a half blown rose, let the edge of the third 
 and fourth rows stand up a little. Put a centre of dark ma- 
 roon in the same way as in the dahlia. 
 
 Next, sew a tape of nine shades of gas green. Make 
 
6 WHITE ROSE. 
 
 seven leaves like No. 1 dahlia petals. Place these around, 
 and let the end that is sewed, come under the rose. Catch 
 them down at the point, and make a slightly curved stem 
 from the dahlia by taking a long stitch from one flower to 
 the other, with a medium shade of gas green worsted.— 
 Hold it in place, passing the needle up, over, and then down, 
 in a manner to make it look like twisted worsted. Make 
 two shorter stems on either side coming from this, for buds. 
 Take stitches along each side of the stems, about one-fourth 
 of an inch long, and one-half inch apart ; one end of the 
 stitch close to the stem, and the other pointing up at an an- 
 gle of forty-five degrees. Make the buds two, three or four 
 of different sizes. If you make more than two. put them 
 near the top of the rose, on either side, so they will need 
 little or no stem. 
 
 ROSE BUD. 
 
 For large buds, cut a piece of the tape three inches long. 
 Make it trie same as a dahlia petal, only do not slant the 
 ends. About one-fourth of an inch from the sewed end, 
 wind the cotton around once or twice to form the cup. Cut 
 four pieces of flannel the shape of the rest of the bud, just 
 large enough to go inside the petal ; then catch them on to 
 the cloth at the end of the -short stem, so the bud will be 
 an inch from the edge of the mat, and three-quarters of an 
 inch below the rose. With double worsted, pass up through 
 the cloth, at the end where the bud meets the stem, then 
 
ROSE BUD. 7 
 
 down, one-half inch from the other end, being careful not 
 to draw tightly, passing it up close to this stitch just below 
 where it went down, then down at the stem. Take a stitch 
 on the other side of the first one in the same way, and three 
 more on each side of the bud similar to those in the middle. 
 If there are not enough to cover the cup, take more where 
 needed. Be sure to have all the lower ends of the stitches 
 centre in the stem. Now pass your needle through the cloth 
 under the bud where the cotton was wound around out at 
 one side, over, under, then down in the same place whence 
 it came. Draw it tightly and fasten the thread. With 
 single thread, pass your needle up at the top of the bud, 
 and down through the cloth, making a stitch three-eighths 
 of an inch long. Make one a little shorter, each side of this 
 one, quarter of an inch apart at the top, each coming from 
 the point of the bud. Pass the needle up a little to one side 
 and near the middle of these stitches, over and down, to 
 draw them to one side. Make three stitches like these on 
 each side, where the green worsted meets the cloth. 
 
 Next, make a buff or light lemon colored rose, in the 
 same manner as the white one, to start from the dark orange 
 dahlia. Use yellow green worsted, with buds, etc. Then 
 a pink rose with the light shades of scarlet, from the red 
 dahlias, using gas green worsted for the buds, etc. A crim- 
 son rose from the light yellow dahlia, using yellow green 
 worsted for buds. In cutting the tape remember to lay the 
 
8 ROSE BUD. 
 
 shorter side of the pattern on the dark threads, and save the 
 pieces which are taken out each time. Let the next four 
 flowers come as near the rose buds which come from the 
 same dahlia as possible, and not crowd. 
 
 Next make a 
 
 RED TULIP 
 
 by leaving oft' the two darkest shades of the dahlia and re- 
 placing by two extra medium shades. It will take a half 
 yard of tape. Cut three pieces four ;inn one-half inches, and 
 two, two inches long. Do not slant the en. Is, but make up 
 as for the dahlias. Catch the dark e.ges together. Cut a 
 piece of flannel one and one-half inches square and round 
 off two corners to the shape of a tulip. Cut ten smaller 
 ones, the smallest one-half an inch across. Place them in 
 a pile three-quarters of an inch from the purple dahlia, with 
 the top pointing between the cantre of the mat, and the 
 crimson rose. Cut a larger piece of flannel, place over 
 these and sew down. Do not draw tightly over the smaller 
 ones. Put on the two short petals so that they will cover 
 the end of the top of the flannel and protrude as far as the 
 longer ones. Now put on two of the longer ones, one on 
 each side, the sewed ends coming together at the stem. — 
 Put the other petal in the middle, making a neat finish 
 where the stem comes. Let the point of the middle long 
 petal come between the points of the two short petals and 
 <>ne on each side of them ; then catch the shorter ones down 
 
BED TULIP. 9 
 
 at the ends, and the longer ones three-quarters of an inch 
 from the end. With doubled green worsted take three 
 stitches one-half an inch long at one end of the stem, the 
 other ends one-quarter of an inch apart on the tulip. Make 
 a straight stem connecting it with the dahlia. Next comes 
 a yellow one starting from the red dahlia, in the same way, 
 only striped instead of shaded, Jn the same position, and 
 near the light dahlia, make a 
 
 RED CACTUS. 
 
 Leave off the two darkest shades that are in the tulip, 
 •and replace by two extra medium shades. Sew the tape. 
 Cut off twelve pieces two and one-half inches long and make 
 up. Catch the dark edges together and put on flannel as 
 for the rose. Cut one of the petals in the centre and sew 
 the same as the other end. Put one end of this just under 
 the edge of the dahlia and the other on the flannel. Place 
 •around six petals and let them come half way to the centre 
 of the flannel. Leave the two top ones farther apart than 
 the rest. Catch down and then -sew on the other five, wrong 
 side up. Turn them over and catch down. Leave a space 
 ■at the top just outside the last row. Take white worsted 
 for the stamens. Pass the needle up from underneath, close 
 to the last row of petals in the centre of the cactus, making a 
 stitch two and an eighth inches long. Take a stitch one-half 
 Inch long, one-half inch from the end. to make a cross. — 
 
io RED CACTUS. 
 
 Take another long stitch on each side, three-eighths of an 
 inch shorter than the first, and tie a knot in the worsted 
 one-half an inch from the end. Take two more stitches on 
 each side of this in the same manner. Now make either a 
 pink cactus or a lily, starting from the dark orange dahlia. 
 To make 
 
 THE LILY, 
 
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 Take twelve to fifteen threads of the light shades of red ; 
 sew one inch and a quarter plain, then hold the dark sid 
 tight, and the light side loose until the dark folds back on 
 itself. Then catch the dark together, cut off and make up. 
 
 (See fig. 5.) — Finish six in this manner. Put on flannel 
 the same as for a rose and sew on two petals with the sewed 
 ends at the centre of the flannel, and the other ends point- 
 ing toward the middle of the mat. Sew on the other four 
 wrong side up, turn over and catch down. Make stamens 
 similar to, but a little longer than those of the rose, and 
 catch down the ends and tuck up the petals until they look 
 careless and natural. At the right of the purple dahlia, be- 
 tween that and the crimson rose, near the edge of the mat, 
 make four 
 
 YELLOW CALLIOPSES. 
 
 Leave off the two dark shades from the dark orange 
 dahlia, and replace by two medium shades. Sew about one 
 yard, cut and make up like No. 3 dahlia pattern, twenty 
 
YELLOW CALLIOPSES. n 
 
 petals, five far each flower. Place one near the dahlia and 
 also near the edge. Put the petals close together and catch 
 at each end to the mat. L?ave a place in the centre as large 
 as a pea. 
 
 Place another one inch from this and another between the 
 two, near the tulip, leaving a space for a spray of blue 
 flowers, and one more between this and the crimson rose. — - 
 Take a knot of dark maroon and fold it until it is about three 
 inches long. Place one end across the middle, draw up the 
 shorter end a little and pass a needle with strong cotton up 
 from underneath, over and down. Draw tightly, then take 
 another stitch in the same place and fasten. Cut off the 
 worsted within a half inch from the stitch, trim it, and you 
 have a tufted centre. Put in eight yellow spots, by passing 
 the worsted up and down and cutting it. After the centres 
 are all in with yellow green, make a stem by a long stitch 
 from the dahlia, to the top one, curving to suit your conven- 
 ience. Make three short stems for the other calliopses. then 
 little leaves along the stem like the rose leaves or stem leaves, 
 taking however three stitches instead of one, and making; 
 two leaves come together when possible. Make a little spray 
 like the stem to fill any space. From the light yellow 
 dahlia, make a spray of 
 
 HONESTY. 
 
 Shaded like the purple dahlia, and petals like the rose.— 
 Place in the same position as the calliopses, and put in a 
 red centre in the same manner, having four threads. The 
 stem should be of gas green. From the red dahlia make 
 three or four crimson 
 
la CLE MATES. 
 
 Shaded and made like No. 2 rose petals. Centres oi 
 light yellow. Put in like the calliopses. Stem of yellow 
 green. Fvom the orange dahlia, make a spray of 
 
 PJjYSIES. 
 
 Shade to suit the fancy. One way is to have two leaves 
 of the two darkest shades of purple and the other three like 
 the light yellow dahlia. Make like the rose petals, placing 
 the two dark ones at the top. A little over these lap two 
 yellow ones, and let the third drop down so that the yellow 
 ones will form the centre, where they are sewed. Cover the 
 stitches carefully, as the centre will not hide them much. — « 
 Take a needle full of black silk and make a stitch from the 
 centre one-half the length of each yellow petal, making three 
 shorter ones on each side. Make six small dots with stitches 
 of silk in each yellow petal. The stem and leaves should be 
 of yellow green. Now we will make four sprays of 
 
 FORGET-MK-NO TS. 
 
 Begin at the purple dahlia and make a stem like that oi 
 the rose, with two or three curves between the tulip and 
 the calliopses. The top just on the centre line and nearly 
 opposite the centre of the crimson rose. Lay the four shades 
 of blue worsted side by side on the fingers, and pass the 
 needle through the ends from dark to light, and back again, 
 holding the worsted between the thumb and finger. Put the 
 needle in the darkest thread, owe-half an inch from the v\\C\. 
 and slant it until it comes out on: the lightest side, seven- 
 eighths of an inch from the first end, and draw it up, pass- 
 be needle back. This makes one petal. Make four 
 
FOR-GET-ME-NOTS. i« 
 
 similarly. Then cut the worsted and fasten the cotton. — 
 Lay tin's on the top end of the stem. Make enough to have 
 sufficient on each side, one inch or half inch apart. It will 
 take from four to eight to fill up the space. Make a cross 
 with yellow worsted for the centres, and a short stem to 
 •connect each flower with the main stem. A spray of For- 
 get-me-nots should come from each dahlia. 
 
 The space between the dahlia and the sides of the mat, 
 maybe filled by putting on small flowers of any color, which 
 are in good contrast. If the pieces have been saved, cut 
 from the roses, pansies, etc., make them up and put three, 
 four, or five petals with a tufted centre in the spaces with 
 short stems, to connect them with the other flowers. Hold 
 the work a little way from you to see if a leaf, bud, or 
 flower would improve it. If so, add it. If perfect, remove 
 from the frame, put it over similar sized paste-board and 
 line with something suitable. To finish the edge, make a 
 cord, either by twisting two or three colors together, or sew 
 some tape of shaded red and shaded green, laying them side 
 by side and winding them over some round lamp wicking. 
 Sew it on and your work is finished. If you wish to make 
 a greater variety of flowers, copy from nature. 
 
 If a lamp mat is not wanted, any of the flowers may be 
 used for whatever purpose desired. They may be made on 
 a small piece of cloth separately, without a frame, and ar- 
 ranged afterwards to suit. A handsome piece for frara- 
 
H FORGET-ME-NOTS. 
 
 ing is a basket of flowers made in this way. Place the sep- 
 arate flowers in the form of a bouquet on the mat, and then 
 make beneath them a basket by sewing a piece of paste- 
 board on to the cloth, after cutting it in the form of a bas- 
 ket, and covering it with tape, any color desired, or it may 
 be made of two colors interwoven. Slipper Cases, Wall 
 Pockets, an J Strips for Towel Racks may be made with any 
 flowers. 
 
 Full course of instruction in French Raised Work, $3.00. 
 Free instruction on the first and third Thursday of each 
 month, or by letter at any time, to anyone who has pur- 
 chased the Directions. 
 
 If by letter, please enclose stamp for return postage. 
 
 Directions and worsted for mat described, $2.00. — 
 Worsted furnished by the ounce or knot, 12 cents per lap 
 or one cent per knot, selected colors. — 
 
 Directions, one hundred knots of worsted, and pattern for 
 a piece to frame, consisting of basket and flowers, $1.50. 
 
 Directions, pattern, and worsted for towel rack, slipper 
 case and wall pocket, each $1.00. 
 
 Price for the book of Directions, 50 cents. 
 
 Stamps will not be taken in payment. 
 
 Apply to 
 
 HATTIE B. ELLIS, 
 
 North Sandwich, Mass, 
 
1— PURPLE DAHLIA. 9— RED TULIP. 
 
 2— LIGHT YELLOW DAHLIA. 10— YELLOW TULIP. 
 
 8— DARK ORANGE DAHLIA. 11— CACTUS. 
 
 4— DARK EED DAHLIA. 
 5— WHITE ROSE. 
 6— LEMON ROSE. 
 7— PINK ROSE. 
 S— CRIMSON HOSE. 
 
 12— LILY. 
 
 13— CALLIOPSEiB. 
 
 14.— HONESTY. 
 15.— CLEM AT KS 
 16— PANSIES. 
 
 17— FORGET-ME-NOTS. 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
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