TOURIST 18 3 4. >,v*^»^» ■w»«v%'%^*^v»/^vw»-vw^v*<'''^ >■ s PRi:Sl-NTI':i) MY THE TOURIST, OR POCKET MANUAL FOR T R AVE L L E R S ON THE HUDSON RIVER, THE WESTERN CANAL AND STAGE ROAD TO NIAGARA FALLS DOWN LAKE ONTARIO AND THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. COMPRISING ALSO THE ROUTES TO LEBANON, BALLSTON, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS. THIRD EDITION, ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. NEW-YORK : PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NO. 82 CLIFF-STREET. 18 34. ^p«2. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1834, By Harper & Brothers, In the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York^ Gift Miss M. C. Codman March 1914 PREFACE. In presenting the third edition of the Tourist to the pubhc, the publishers offer their acknowledgments for the very liberal patronage received by the former ones, and hope the emendations and numerous ad- ditions will meet with general approbation. It is believed that all the information required by tourists through this State and Canada will be found in the pages of this work, divested of unnecessary details, and clearly arranged and classified. Some of the items, especially in relation to steam- boat navigation and the canal and stage routes, are probably more full and accurate than have been con- tained in any of the itineraries already published ; while in the enumeration of interesting points on the Hudson and elsewhere, brevity has been observed, from a desire, as much as possible, to compress the work, so as to render it emphatically the pocket- companion of the traveller, and its price proportion- ably moderate. ALMANAC... .1:834. Being, after the 4th of July, the 59th of American Independence: S5 S! r^ — — ss ^^ 555 — !^ ==* >, 1 1 1 >^ "S 1 -73 3 3 M 1 p H i X h lii ^ o i H Jan. . . . 1 2 3 4 July. . . 1 2 3 4 5 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 26 27 28 29 30 31 27 28 29 30 31 Feb. . . . 1 August. 1 2 2 3 4 5 G 7 8 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 23 24 25 26 27 28 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 March. 1 31 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Sept. . . 1 2 3 4 5 6 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 30 31 28 29 30 April. . 1 2 3 4 5 Oct. . . . 1 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 27 28 29 30 26 27 28 29 30 31 May. . . 1 2 3 Nov. . . 1 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 23 30 24 25 26 27 28 29 June. . . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Dec. . . . 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 18 19 20121 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 22 23 24 25 26 2728 21122 23 24 25 26 27 29 30 1 1 , 28] 29| 30 31 Rates of Fare in Hackney Coaches in New-York. If the driver and stranger disagree as to distance, the street-commissioner will decide. For taking a person any distance not ex- ceeding one mile $0 25 For taking one person any distance ex- ceeding a mile, and within the lamp and watch districts 50 For every additional passenger ... 25 For carrying a passenger to the new alms-house, and returning 75 For every additional passenger, and re- turning 37|- For conveying a passenger around the first or Sandy Hill tour 1 00 For conveying a passenger around the second or Love Lane tour 2 00 For conveying a passenger around the third or Lake's tour 2 50 For conveying one or more passengers around the fourth or Apthorp's tour, with the privilege of detaining the carriage two hours 3 50 For conveying one or more passengers to Harlaem, and returning, with the privilege of detaining the carriage two hours . . 4 00 For conveying one or more passengers any distance not herein mentioned or de- scribed, and returning, for every mile which they may proceed from the said stands re- spectively 50 Children under 14 years of age half price. The above is an extract from the Corporation Laws. gi. .2 2 5 o> m •* o J^ CO ^ o r-H lo (N n O 00 (N CO 00 ^ CC « 00 00 -H m — iv,(N CO CO o) CO m >T'-o(Mn- « 00 '* 00 00 00 00 00 00 H^ ■* 00 00 00 " o ,-H ;5 rt 00- 00 -gi l^ O r-H lO (M CO CO (M 00 00 00 00 00 Ci -* CO 00 lO (M^QO-^OJCvt--— i(M O0-i---QOQO-'0OO0' CO CO 00 o 00 t^ 00 rH 00 I— I o r- lo 00 »n n cj r* o »o o> !r)-. ^ «. „ „ ^ o ^ o o n a)0«c3.-K oo>-,o CO -l-i "C 2 Is CO PL, S^dB ^^ fl 2 1^ >=;§ & ^ 2 o >,CU-« W S O QJ OJ ^ ■' bo J3 © wo ■gmlzi^ II P:! 'S m W. ?? i-L P l^a s -^ ^-S ^ rt 2 5^ s 5 , o 5 ® «£ S :2- ir-^ --. ca 3 :; :: o o c o o o o 9-0 o o o o OO cSOiOOOO ^ £? Tf) es ^•^ ^ ■s=a •a p ^ s ^ CO ^ >-.^ - M fO , 00 " ■':?■' ~* 00 C30 ■ CO (M C<) CO CO CO OO 00 00 00 ^ ,-H O .-I 00 o CO - (N CO 00 " 00 00 • CO t^ f-* 00 .3 '^ bo ^1 .s II (D r^ KO O c! i^ IJS _j a> 2 -o ,r '^ o "S .-S o o :3 «j C l> V, > p .B o ^a^^ o o q3 t^ .;i! ,S.S s >-, p a^ S5 CI IS - O O a (H cs 2 *> c o^ -22 lis S c: -« 2 2 6^ fc-3 "O ^ ra ■- --^ C g 1^.2 g ^. cs oT ^ ■-- cc CO m rt ^ O O O pqQrpqpQPQ STEAMBOATS FROM NEW-YORK. NEW-YORK, ALBANY, AND TROY LINE. Day Line from the foot of Barclay-street. Night Line from the foot of Courtland-st. Erie Capt. James Benson, Albany *' J. G. Jenkins. Champlain " A. Gorham. North America " R. G. Cruttenden. Ohio " M.Bartholomew. Constitution " A. Hoyt. Constellation " D. Brown, Jr. Novelty " T. Wiswall. One of the above boats leaves daily, at 7 o'clock, A.M., and 5 o'clock, P. M. for x\lbany, Troy, and the intermediate places. PEOPLE'S OPPOSITION LINE. Sandusky Capt. C. J. Swartwout. ■p, ( Burden's double > ■ ^^ Ji.mma ^ ^^^^^ soofeet long. S ' The regular days of departure of these boats will be best ascertained from the daily papers. For Singsing, Peekskill, and Newburgh Lines, see daily newspapers. RAIL-ROAD LINE, For Philadelphia, via Bordentown, from Pier IVo. 1 North River. Independence Capt. G. N. Diehl. Swan "■ C.Seymour. Thistle " . A boat of this line departs three times each day (except Sunday) at 6 and 10 A.M., and 12 M. PEOPLE'S LINE, From the same Pier, via New- Brunswick and Trenton. New- York Capt. Van Pelt. Leaves every day at 6, A. M. NEW-YORK AND BOSTON LINE. President Capt. E. S. Bunker. Benjamin Franklin " R.B.Coleman. Providence *' S. Thayer. Boston " W. Comstock. For particulars and time of starting, see advertisements in newspapers. NEW-HAVEN LINE. From the foot of Beekman-street. Superior Capt. Sanford. Splendid " Stone. One of these boats leaves daily at 7 A .M. HARTFORD LINE. New-England Capt. Waterman. Macdonough " Havens. Oliver Ellsworth " . Chief Justice Marshall " Howes. A boat departs daily at 4 P. M. from the foot of Beekman- street ; and three times each week at 7 o'clock, A. M. CHARLESTON LINE. William Gibbons Capt. Pennoyer. David Brown " Coffey. Leave the foot of Catharine-street alternately every Saturday afternoon at 4 o'clock. NORWALK AND BRIDGEPORT LINES. From the foot of Market and Catharine streets. Fairfield Capt. Peck. Citizen " Hendree. Nimrod " Brooks. Westchester " St. John. Boats leave Fulton Market daily for Flushing, Hallet's Cove, Throgg's Neck, New-Rochelle, Mosquito Cove, Cold Spring, and Shrewsbury. There are several other boats plying to different places from New- York, for the time of departure of which, as well as those above enumerated, the most sure way is to refer to the advertisements in the daily newspapers, as their arrange- ments art' subject to frequent alterations. PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN NEW- YORK. Location. Keepers^ Names, City Hotel No. 113 Broadway — C. Jennings. Atlantic Hotel No. 5 Broadway M'Neil Seymour. Adelphi Hotel Cr. Beaver-st. and Broadway. Mansion House No. 39 Broadway W.J. Bunker Niblo's Hotel No. 112 Broadway Niblo. Franklin House Cr. Dey-st. and Broadway . . . Newton Hayes. American Hotel Cr. Barclay-st. and Broadway Milford. Washington Hotel Cr. Chambers-st. & Broadway Pearl-street House — No. 88 Pearl-street B. Douglas. i>,^^i.,. c»^„of tr^.,.1 J Steamboat landing, foot of > Harrison and Barclay-street Hotel... j garclay-street ..:. \ Benson. Clinton Hotel Beekman-street E.\change Hotel Nos. 8 and 10 Broad-street . . . Howard. Eastern Pearl-st. House Cr. Pearl and Ferry streets . . Foster. Holt's House Cr. Water and Fulton streets . Holt. New-York Hotel No. 162 Greenwich-street.... Dean. Walton House No. 326 Pearl-street S. Backus. Webb's Congress Hall. Broadway C. H. Webb. PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN ALBANY. Location. Keeper's Names. Eagle Tavern South Market-street L. Cruttenden. American Hotel No. 100 State-street I. Thomas. City Hotel North Market-street S. Chapin & Co. Mansion House North Market-street Bradstreet. Adelphi Hotel Cr. Market and State streets . Cross. Bement's Hotel No. 82 State-street C.N. Bement. Park-Place House Park-Place Landon. ^"''notet.*?."'"!"^'.^" I ^°- ^^^ ^°""' Market-street. . B. Jesup. Fort Orange Hotel No. 549 South Market-street. . E. Foot. Montgomery Hall South Market-street. . Chapin, ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO N E W-Y R K. PASSAGE UP THE DELAWARE. The People^s Opposition Line goes by way of Trenton and New-Brunswick ; and the Rail-road Line as follovs'^s : After starting, the ship-house in the Navy-yard will be seen opposite. A number of ship-yards and three or four glass-houses will be noticed ; also a shot-tower, and a number of tall spires, which appear conspicuous among the great mass of buildings. The boat moves on in the " even tenor of her way," and the traveller soon finds liimself at BuRi/iNGTON, 18 miles from Pliiladelphia, which, like most of the villages along the Delaware, fills a very interesting page in the history of the Revolu- tion. It is a very handsome town, beautifully located on an inclined plane, and many of the buildings dis- play much taste. Bristol, nearly opposite, presents to view a num- ber of handsome buildings, with extensive and beau- tiful gardens attached. After proceeding 10 miles farther, the boat arrives at BoRDENTowN, a haudsome village, situated on an- elevated bank. Here the passengers take cars on the Camden and Amboy Rail-road, and after proceed- ing a short distance, the seat and residence of the Ex-king of Spain, Joseph Bonaparte, who now 12 PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. Styles himself the Count de Survilliers, is seen on the left. Passing on through several small towns^ the car arrives at South Amboy, the terminating point of the rail- road, which is 35 miles in length. Here the steam- boat lies at the wharf in readiness to proceed dow» the Raritan River ; and as soon as the passengers can be transferred from the cars, she gets under way and proceeds to Perth Amboy, which is directly opposite, across the river. There is little here to attract notice. Some shipping generally lies at the wharves, but the place does not wear a very business-like aspect. Elizabethtown Point, within 15 miles of New- York, is the next stopping-place. The village of Elizabethtown is two miles inland. The boat now enters the broad, beautiful bay of New- York, and Fort Lafayette is seen between Long and Staten islands, in the passage to the sea called " The Narrows." On the right is seen Castle Williams and Governor's Island, on the left are Ellis's and Bedlow's islands, which are both fortified^ and in front an immense, almost innumerable, quan- tity of shipping lying at the wharves, with an ex- tended background of lofty buildings, among which the towering spires of the numerous churches scat- tered about the city appear very conspicuously. New- York is the largest and most populous city in the United States, and has an unrivalled location as a commercial city, at the junction of the East and Hudson rivers, on an island of 15 miles in length by 1^ in width. It is now built nearly in a triangular shape, and extends about 3 miles on each river. The principal portion of shipping-business is transacted on the eastern side of the city, as that PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 13 part of the harbour is best protected from prevailing storms. The East River, opposite the city, is about half a mile wide, and the North River something more than a mile. The principal streets run north and south, and are crossed at right angles by streets but- ting on each river. Broadway, a iiandsomely-built avenue, about 3 miles in length and 80 feet in width, is the fashionable promenade of the city, and is generally crowded in pleasant weather with every description of persons and natives of almost every clime. Here you see " nice young men with gold- headed canes, just returned from their travels : foreign gentlemen of great distinction and superb mustachios ; full-fledged heirs sporting their figures and their cash ; brisk minors panting for their majority and for early distinction ; and geniuses of the first water, who ex- hibit themselves in their most intellectual, interesting, and abstract cast of expression. All shapes, and hues, and conditions, and distinctions ; all varieties of beauty and of ugliness, of wealth and of poverty, pride that exhibits itself in a new coat, and pride that peeps through the torn drapery of an old one, from the millionnaire down to the poor sweep, — you may see them all in Broadway. The aristocratic coach, and the lowly dust-cart, the barouche and the wheelbarrow are constantly passing each other by on this grand thoroughfare — the great highway of the several fifteen wards of this noisy and bustling city." The principal places of public amusement are the Park, Bowery, and Richmond-Hill Theatres ; Peale's and the American Museums, and several gardens, of which Niblo's and the Castle are decidedly the most pleasant. The city contains 120 churches, many of which are beautiful buildings, and constructed in a B 14 PHILADELPHIA TO NEW- YORK. chaste style of architecture. The Uterary and scien- tific institutions in the city are Columbia College, established 1754, Medical College, Lyceum of Natu- ral History, Historical Society, Atheneum, Society Library, Academy of Fine Arts, National Academy of Design, Law Institute, Mercantile Library Asso- ciation, &c. About 300,000 tons of shipping, com- prising many of the most elegant and fast-saiHng ships in the world, are owned here ; about seventy newspapers are published, and there are several ex- tensive book-printing establishments in the city. The population of the city by the census of 1830 was 202,589, and is now estimated at about 250,000. The first fortified settlement was made here in 1615 by the Dutch, one year after the settlement of Albany. ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. [References. — * Places at which the regular steamboats, running between New-York and Albany land. — E. S. East side of the river. — W. S. West side of the river. — Distances on the river vdll be ascertained by referring to the Map of the Hud- son which is connected with this work. — Distances on the canal will be seen by referring to the table at page 47.] PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. The Hudson River was first discovered, Septem- ber 4, 1609, by Henry Hudson, from whom it derives its name. It rises 250 miles north of New- York, in a mountainous country on the confines of Canada, between Lakes Ontario and Champlain, and may justly be regarded as . the Thames of America. It is a noble river, abounding with scenery of the most sublime, picturesque, and romantic character; not surpassed, for variety and grandeur, by any in the world. At the time appointed, the boat moves from the wharf, " like a thing of life," and the stranger finds himself in the midst of a varied and splendid scene. On the right he has New- York, with its Battery, and Castle Garden ; on the left Jersey City and Hoboken, and on the south a view of the Narrows leading to Sandy Hook, and a far view of the Atlantic Ocean, 22 miles from the city. Directly opposite the Bat- tery is seen Governor's Island, on which is situated Castle Williams. The Quarantine ground at Staten 16 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. Island is also seen in a soulhernly direction, and its white buildings form a striking object in looking down the bay. As the boat proceeds, on the right are seen the old State Prison (which is no longer occupied, as the prisoners have been removed to the new prison at Singsing), Fort Gansevoort, and the Episcopal Theological Seminary, built of gray hewn stone. On the left the shady w^lks of Hoboken, the cottage on the " Elysian Fields," and Col. Ste- vens's mansion on the promontory called " Hoboken Point" arrest the attention. A short distance above, the hills of Weehawken are seen. Weehawken, the romantic beauties of which have inspired the sprightly muse of Halleck, is the celebrated duelling-ground, and the spot where the fatal duel between Col. Aaron Burr and Gen. Hamilton was fought, 1804. It is 3 miles from the city, and its retired walks and con- venient solitude have created its notoriety as the place where " affairs of honour" are generally settled. A neat marble monument was here erected to the memory of Hamilton ; but it has been removed within a few years, his remains having been interred in Trinity churchyard, beneath a fine monument, en- closed in an iron railing. The Palisadoes commence at Weehawken, and ex- tend about 20 miles up the western side of the river. These are a range of trap-rock (the altitudes of which are from 20 to 550 feet), which form almost one impassable barrier, presenting nearly a perpen- dicular surface. The Lunatic Asylum (E. S.), 7 miles from the city, is built of hewn freestone. The situation is beau- tiful and commanding. Harlaem (E.S.). A small village containing a church, three stores, a blacksmith's shop, &c. The PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 17 ridge of highland which extends across the island is called Harlaem Heights, on which, during the revolu- tion, a line of fortifications was thrown up quite across to the East River. Fort Lee (W. S.), on the brow of the Palisadoes, 300 feet above the level of the water — this fort was evacuated in 1776. Fort Washington (E. S.). The ruins of this for- tress are on the summit of a high hill, 12 miles from the city. This fort was surrendered by the Ameri- cans to the Hessians in 1776, together with 2600 men. Spuyten Buy v el Creek (E. S.), 13 miles from the city. This creek derived its name from the follow- ing circumstance. When New-Amsterdam (now New-York) was in possession of the Dutch, Peter Stuyvesant, then governor, sent Antony Van Corlaer, his right-hand man and sounder of brass, alias, trum- peter, on an important message up the river. On his arrival at this creek, having no means of passing it, he paused in much perplexity : but his zeal to ac- complish the mission was not to be overcome by the want of a boat, so he very heroically threw off his coat and made a vow he would cross it " spuyten duyvel." " It was a dark and stormy night when the good Antony arrived at the famous creek (sagely denominated Harlaem River) which separates the island of Manahatta from the mainland. The wind was high, the elements were in an uproar, and no Charon could be found to ferry the adventurous sounder of brass across the water. For a short time he vapoured like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, betliinking liimself of the urgency of his errand, took a hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across en B2 18 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. spijt en Duyvel (in spite of the Devil) ! and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless Antony ! Scarce had he buffeted half-way over when he was observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters — instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement blast — sank for ever to the bottom !" — Knickerbocker, p. 232. Philipsburgh (E. S.), 17 miles from the city, con- tains a church and several houses. Fort Independence (E. S.). Directly opposite this fort the Palisadoes are of greater height than at any other point. DoBBs's Ferry (E. S.) 221 nniles from the city. Tarrytown (E. S.). Major Andre was captured at this place when returning from his visit to Gen. Arnold, and on his way to the British lines, Septem- ber 23, 1780. The tree under which he was taken was struck by lightning on the very day the news of Gen. Arnold's death was received at Tarrytovra, July 31, 1801. Strange coincidence! It was a white-wood tree, and uncommonly large, being 26 feet in circumference and 111 high. Tappan (W. S.). Andre was executed about a mile from this village. The spot where he was buried is still pointed out and frequently visited, although his remains were disinterred a few years since and taken to England. Nyack, a small village a little north of Tappan. Haverstraw (W. S.), a short distance above Nyack. SiNGsiNG (E. S.), 33 miles from the city. The new State Prison is located on the bank of the river at this place. It was commenced in 1825, and has been tenanted nearly 6 years. Its dimensions are 44 by 480 feet : it has a double row of cells, built PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 19 back to back, four tiers high, and 200 in each tier; making in all 800 cells. It is built of hewn marble, quarried on the premises. The whole work was performed by the convicts. They are now building, and have nearly jfinished, two extensive wings, which extend from the main building to the wharf. The discipline is that of the Auburn prison, probably the best now in use. Sleepy Hollow (E. S.), a little above Singsing. This is the place w^here Washington Irving locates the scene of his tale of the same name, in the " Sketch Book." Grassy Point (W. S.), 1 mile south of Stony Point. There is a fine mansion here belonging to Mr. Piatt, of New-York. Stony Point (W. S.), 40 miles from New- York, is a bold, rough promontory, with a lighthouse on its summit. It was fortified during the American war, and taken from Gen. Wayne by the British in 1778; but retaken the same year. Verplanck's Point (E. S.), opposite, was also the site of a fort. There is a splendid mansion, lawn, arbour, &c. situated upon it, and occupied by Mr. Philip Verplanck. *Caldwell's (W. S.), 44 miles from New- York. This is the first landing of the steamboats. Here the Highlands commence. Peekskill Village is directly opposite Caldwell's.* • Antony'' s Nose {'El. S.). The mountain of this name is not, as is generally supposed, the one that exhibits a resemblance of the profile of a human face. It is directly opposite Fort Montgomery Creeh Its eleva- tion is 1228 feet from the level of the river, and its ♦ Enoch Crosby, the original of Cooper's " Harvey Birch," in the novel of" The Spy," is now living, and resides near Peekslull, 20 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. name is derived, according to Irving, from the nose of Antony Van Corlaer. The christening of the mount is described in the story of tlie Dutch gov- ernor's first voyage up the Hudson, as follows : " Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendour from behind one of the high cliffs of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the refulgent nose of the sounder of brass. The reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel ! When this astonishing miracle came to be made known to Peter Stuyvesant (the governor), he, as may well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly; and as a monu- ment thereof, gave the name of Antonifs Nose to a stout promontory in the neighbourhood, and it has continued to be called Antony's Nose ever since.'* From here to Fort Montgomery, which is now in ruins, on the opposite side, a large boom and chain was extended during the revolutionary war, which cost about 70,000 pounds sterling. It was partly destroyedbyGen. Sir Henry Clinton in October, 1777. After proceeding about 2 miles farther, an exten- sive range of mills are seen on the west side of the river. These are supplied by a stream called But- termilk Falls. This is a beautiful little cascade, which comes foaming and tumbling down the rocks, and has a milk-white appearance. The mills are the property of Mr. Lydig. Richard Arden's mansion is seen directly opposite Buttermilk Falls. This gentleman has an immense tract at this place, on which is situate the " Beverly House,"* a quarter of * During the Revolution, this house was the property of Charles Beverly Robinson (a colonel in the British army, though an American by birth), but in possession of the Americans and the PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 21 a mile south of his dwelling, — not in sight from the river. Three miles above, the location of the cele- brated United States^ Militai-y School comes in view. quarters of Gen. Benedict Arnold, who infamously attempted to betray his country to her enemies in the year 1780. His plot was discovered in time to avert the fatal blow, but not to secure the traitor. Col. Beverly and Major Andre were sent by Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander, on board the sloop of war Vulture, at New-York, with orders to proceed up the river and have an interview with Arnold. They anchored opposite Fort Montgomery. Andre went to Beverly House, saw the traitor, and received the draughts of all the works at West Point and the passes leading to thern. Previous to this time, Arnold had never intrusted a paper out of his hands which might expose him to detection ; but now saw no danger in confiding these to Andre, who was to re-embark directly on board the sloop and make sail for New- York. Andre returned alone to the beach, whence a boat was to convey him to the Vulture ; but this ar- rangement was defeated by an obstacle wholly unexpected, — the sloop having weighed anchor and moved down to Teller's Point, which divides Tappan and Haverstraw bays. This move- ment having excited the suspicions of the rowers of the boat in which Andre was to return, caused them peremptorily to refuse taking him on board. Finding all entreaties vain, he returned to Arnold, and consulted him on the propriety of urging the men to proceed. Arnold advised him to assume a disguise and return by land ; and wished to withdraw the papers intrusted to him, thinking it hazardous to send them by land. To this, however, Andre refused to accede, as he was desirous of showing Clinton with what punctuahty he had executed his mission. He dis- guised himself in a dress provided by a man named Joshua Smith, and, after secreting the letters in his boots, proceeded on his journey, accompanied by Smith ; each had a passport from Arnold "to go to the lines of White Plains, or lower if the bearer thinks proper ; he being on public business." When they arrived in sight of the ground occupied by the English, Smith, seeing no one, said, " You are safe ; good-by," and returned at fuU speed. Andre proceeded, and was about entering the village of Tarrytown, when he was accosted by three men, arrested, searched, and the fatal papers found on him. Arnold soon heard of his arrest, immediately ordered his wife to bum his papers, flew to his barge (which was always ready manned and lay at the small dock opposite Buttermilk Falls), and ordered the men to row him down to the Vulture. He arrived on board safe, and gave the men privilege to remain or return v^rith the barge. They chose the latter. He was elevated to the rank of briga* S2 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. ' *West Point (W. S.). West Point is celebrated as the theatre of several important events during the revolutionary struggle, the remembrance of which will cause every feeling heart to glow with patriotism. The Military Academy, under the superintendence of Col. Thayer, has reached a celebrity alike creditable to him and honourable to our country. It was es- tablished in 1802, and the number of students is limited to 250. Col. R. E. De Russey is the present able and judicious superintendent and conmiandant. The cadets parade every evening at 6 o'clock, which exhibition, together with the " eloquent music" dis- coursed by the hand, is calculated to excite the ad- miration of every visiter. On approaching the point, the first building noticed is the Hospital, which is a fine stone edifice, with a piazza in front, and an ex- tensive wing at each end. The next objects worthy of attention are the niins of the venerable Fort Put- nam, which occupy a majestic and commanding situ- ation. Near the river is a kind of niche in the cliff, accommodated with a immber of benches. This is called Koscivsko^s Garden. Clusters of lilacs are still growing, which are said to have been planted by the Polish patriot. There is also a spring of veiy fine water, over which the cadets have placed a mar- ble reservoir, in which the water boils up with fine effect. It was formerly difficult of access, but is now accessible by means of a flight of stone steps. dier-general in the British army, which he held until June 14, 1801, when he died, at Gloucester-Place, London, "Unwept, unhonour'd, and unsung." Andre was tried as a spy, convicted, and suffered an ignomini- ous death, which must have been preferable to the life of Arnold, rendered miserable by the contempt of those for whom he had sacrificed his friends, his home, his country, and his honour. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 23 A short distance from this place Kosciusko's monu- ment is seen : it is built of fine hewn marble ; the inscription on it is — " Kosciusko, Erected by the corps of Cadets, 1828." After turning the point, the Hotel comes in view : it is a fine spacious house, and kept by Mr. W. B. Cozzens, a gentleman long and advantageously known to the visiters of West Point. During the war, a chevaux-de-frize was ex- tended across from the wharf to Magazine Point, on Constitution Island, to prevent vessels from passing further up the river. About a quarter of a mile above is a monument to the memory of a cadet who was killed by the burst- ing of a cannon. The names of several cadets are inscribed upon it. A short distance further, at the water's edge, is a small cove, where is seen a small white house. This house is on the site of the build- ing in which Gen. Washington held his head-quarters during a part of the Revolution. After proceeding about a mile beyond the landing, by taking a retro- spect, the traveller has a magnificent view of the Military Academy, and all the buildings appertaining thereto. There are nine brick buildings for the officers and professors. The view of the Point from this distance is. highly imposing. Mr. Samuel Gov- erneur has a beautiful residence opposite West Point. The Highland School is located half a mile north. It was commenced in 1830, and is now becoming very popular. The Croio's Nest (W. S.) is the first mountain north of West Point, and has an indenture on its summit resembling a nest : hence its name. Eleva- tion 1418 feet. Cold Spring (E. S.), a small village about 2 miles north of W^est Pomt, on the opposite side, derives 24 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. its name from a spring in the vicinity, which suppUed the troops with water during the war. The West Point Foundri/, under the superintendence of Gov- erneur Kemble, Esq., is situated at this place. This estabhshment, for the manufacture of cannon and ma- chinery, comprehends two blast-furnaces, three air- furnaces, three cupola-furnaces, a boring-mill of nine gmi beds, and one for mortars and cyhnders, with lathes, &c. ; three water-wheels, one of iron, 36 feet in diameter, with extensive shops, and a steam-engine in Beach-street, New- York, for the manufacture of steam-engines and other machinery. The whole establishment employs daily from 450 to 500 workmen. Butter Hill is the last of the range on the west side. Its elevation is 1529 feet, greater than any of the Highlands except the "High Peak," which is 1689 feet. At the foot of it can be seen Putnam's Rock, which was rolled from the top in 1778 by a party of soldiers, directed by Gen. Putnam. An in- dividual, rather visionary than otherwise, of the name of Newbold, has been endeavouring for a number of years to establish three cities on the top of this moun- tain. Their names are Faith, Hope, and Charity. He intends constructing a railway from the river up the mountain, with an engine stationed at the summit, by which merchandise, &c. will be drawn up for the use of the inhabitants. Break-neck Hill is the last of the range of High- lands on the east side ; it is a very rough craggy mountain. When directly opposite, the profile of a human face, called " Turk's Face," can be seen on the point of rock which projects farthest southward. PolopelVs Island. This is the name of the small round island in the middle of the river at this place. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 This island is the residence of nothing save snakes, which are found in immense numbers ; having never been subjected to the influence of a tutelar saint, with snake-compelling powers hke those of the re- nowned St, Patrick. Cornwall (W. S.). A small village 4 miles south of Newburgh. New-Windsor (W. S.) is 2 miles south of New- burgh. There are two docks at this place : a few yards back from the south dock is seen a low house with three dormant windows ; in 1774 this was the domicil of Mr. Elhson ; Gen. Washington resided with his family most part of that winter and held his quarters there ; a short distance back of this, on the eminence, is a beautiful mansion belonging to Mr. BuUus ; from this place there is a delightful prospect for 20 miles around. *Newburgh (W. S.). Newburgh was first settled by some emigrants from Palatine, in the year 170S, and is now a place of some considerable magnitude, containing a population of about 4000. Being situ- ated on the declivity of a hill, it probably makes a better appearance from the river than from any other point. A stage runs from this place to Ithaca daily. A quarter of a mile south of the village stands the old stone house in which Washington held liis quar- ters at the time when the celebrated " Newburgh Letters" made their appearance. Presqu^ Isle, nearly opposite Newburgh, is the residence of Mr. — Denning. This situation aflfords a most delightful prospect of country, and its gar- dens, shrubbery, and forest-trees are very charming. FisHKiLL (E. S.) is directly opposite Newburgh. The Matteawan Cotton Facto?-!/ is situated near this place. It belongs to the Messrs. Schenck, of New- C 26 PASSAGE VP THE HtDSON. York. The Highland Grove Gymnasium was estab- lished at Fishkill in 1829, by Messrs. Kent and Jones, and is now in a very flourishing condition. Low Point (E. S.). There is a small cluster of white buildings on this point. It is 2 miles above Fishkill. Dans Kamer Point (W. S.), 5|- miles above New- burgh, is a rough peninsula. Knickerhocher, speak- ing of Gov. Stuyvesant's passage up the river, says, " Even now I have it on the point of my pen to re- late, how his crew was most horribly frightened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry roistering devils, frisking and curvetting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and which is called the DuyvelVs Dans Kamer to this very da3^" The splendid mansion with a wing at each end, on the brow of the hill just below this place, is the resi- dence of Mr. Armstrong. Hampton (W. S.), 69 miles from New- York. Hamburgh is directly opposite Hampton. The creek which empties into the river at this point is called Wappinger's Creek. One mile and a half above this place, on a projecting point, is seen a fine brick building, with an arbour on the hill. This was the residence of George Clinton, formerly Governor of this State, and celebrated in the annals of New-' York as a statesman, a soldier, and a good citizen. Gen. James Tallmadge is the present occupant. Jew's Creek (W. S.) is 1^ miles above Hampton. Brick-manufacturing is carried on at this place very extensively. Milton (W. S.), 72 miles from New- York. The village opposite is called Barnegat. The shore be- tween Hampton and Milton is literally covered with lime-kilns. PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 The beautiful mansion of Col. Livingston is situated in delightful grounds on the margin of the river, about 1 mile south of Poughkeepsie. *PouGHKEEPSiE (E. S.) is located about 1 mile from the landing. This place was originally settled by some Dutch famihes, about the year 1735, and derived its name from an Indian v^ord, Apokeepsingy signifying safe harbour. It was incorporated as a village in 1801, and now contains a population of more than 5000. It is a beautiful and pleasant place ; the buildings and grounds of its inhabitants display- ing much taste. Its importance as a river-town is very considerable, having an extensive back country to support its commercial prosperity. The shore is rough and bold, and the steamboat landing is not seen until the boat reaches the dock, in consequence of a high rocky projection, called the " Call Rock." There is a very fine view, for several miles north and south, from the top of this rock. There are two fine hotels in the village, equal to any between the cities of New- York and Albany, New Paltz (W. S.). This village is opposite Poughkeepsie. *Hyde Park (E. S.). A large tract of land at this place is owned by Dr. David Hosack, an eminent physician from New-York, who has lately retired from the city to this delightful part of the country. His splendid mansion is in sight from the river. There is a park for deer, arbours, lawn, and a very extensive hot-house, which contains specimens of almost all our domestic plants, together with a great variety from other countries. Half a mile above Dr. Hosack's is seen Judge Pendleton's mansion ; and two miles further is that of Hamilton Wilkes, Esq. Dr. Rowari's seat is di- 28 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. rectly across the river from Hyde Park. Three miles above, Beaver Creek empties itself into the Hudson. Esopus Island is situated at the mouth of the creek. Lewises Dock (E. S.). After proceeding a few miles further and turning a point of land, a small dock is seen, and a splendid brick building a few yards in the rear. This is the residence of Gen. Morgan Lewis, formerly Governor of the State of New- York. A few yards above Governor Lewis's is the beautiful mansion of James Duane Livingston, Esq. Staatsburgh (E. S.). The beautiful mansion on the hill, at this place, is the residence of James Thompson, Esq. *Rhinebeck(E.S.). This is a small landing, whence a sloop sails twice a week with produce for New- York. The village is 3 miles in the interior. This place affords a fine distant view of the Catskill Mountains and the Mountain House. * Columbus Point is on the opposite side of the river. The junction of the Waalkill Creek with the Hudson River is at this place. The terminating point of the Delaware and Hudson Canal is about 4 miles inland, where it empties into the Waalkill. The canal at the surface is 36 feet in breadth and 4 feet deep. The locks are 72 feet in length and 9 feet wide. The water rises in them from 8 to 1 1 feet. Two packet boats are in operation on the canal, and leave Bolton, one and a quarter miles from Columbus Point, every Monday and Thursday, for Honesdale, the head of the canal, whence passengers are taken to the coal-mines on the rail-road. Stages are in readiness at Honesdale to convey passengers to Utica, Binghampton, Owego, and Ithaca. Kingston is a pretty village, located on a beautiful PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 29 and extensive plain, 3 miles inland. It was burnt by the British, October 25, 1777. Magdalen Island (E. S.), 8 miles above Rhinebeck, is the property of Dr. Mastin. His residence is handsomely located on the south end of the island. He has an arbour " founded on a rock," from which a splendid view of the river is afforded both north and south. . Shultz's Dock (E. S.). A sloop sails from this place to New-York once a week. Lower Red Hook (E. S.). This was fonnerly a place of considerable business, but within a few years it has all been diverted to the landing 3 miles above. Just south of the landing is a neat, delight- fully-situated building, with a small grove in front, vvhich is decorated with an arbour ; and a number of rustic seats are placed about under the trees, It is the residence of Capt. Brown, of the United States' army. A few yards north of the dock is the seat of J. R. Livingston, Esq. The mansion is large and splendid. The mansions of J, C. Stevens, J. C. Montgomery, and R. S. Livingston are situated be- tween Lower and Upper Red Hook. Glasgow Tillage (W. S.), 21 miles above Lower Red Hook landing. A short distance above here is the residence of Rev. Mr. Overbagh. •Upper Red Hook (E. S.). The village is about 2 miles from the landing, in the interior. There is a hotel, a number of stores, storehouses, &c. at the landing. The mansion south of the dock is the residence of Robert Tillotson, Esq. The first mansion north of the south landing belongs to John Swift Living- ston, Esq. It is one of the most beautiful locations on the Hudson. A few yards above is the residence C2 so PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. of Mr. Elmendorf, also in a very eligible situation. After proceeding 2 miles further, the traveller has a view of the splendid brick mansion of R. L. Living- ston, Esq., formerly the residence of Chancellor Liv- ingston. A large and v^ell-stocked hot-house is attached to the south end of the building. E. P. Livingston, Esq.'s, mansion is a few yards farther north. Ury (W. S.), opposite Upper Red Hook landing — Country-seat of Henry Barclay, Esq. Saugerties Village, situated about 1 mile west from the confluence of the Esopus and Hudson rivers. The interjutting hills obstruct the view of the most considerable portion of it from the latter stream. It is only of seven or eight years' growth, and at present contains very extensive manufactories of bar-iron, paper, and white lead ; besides many other of minor importance ; a population of 3000 souls, and a water-power still unemployed, which promises a corresponding continuance of prosperity for many years to come. This village chiefly owes its origin and importance to the exertions and enter- prise of the proprietor of the seat last named. There are falls of about 45 feet perpendicular height on the Esopus River, at this village, occasioned by natu- ral and artificial obstructions, which flood the water back two or three miles, forming a most beautiful sheet or lake. Further up, at the distance of about a mile, are the great falls of the Esopus, which, to- gether with the variety and beauty of the adjacent scenery, present claims for the gratification of the curious of no inferior order. The roads in the neighbourhood, during the temperate and bland sea- son of the year, are generally good, and that in par- ticular which leads to the Pine Orchard through Kau- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 31 terskill Clove. The scenery along this clove is truly- alpine and unsurpassed by any of the same character within the United States. Fishing affords excellent sport, particularly for trout, which are taken in great quantities a few miles back in the country. There is a good hotel, and carriages and horses for the convenience of sojourners ; and the climate being healthy, there are few places equally accessible to the citizens of New-York which offer greater induce- ments for a temporary residence during the summer months. Bristol (W. S.), Two sloops sail from this village to New- York. Trumpore^s Landing (W. S,). There are four or five houses at this place : it is the next above Bristol. Oak Hill (E. S.). The large store-house and dock at this place belong to Harman Livingston, Esq. His splendid mansion is situated on the hill just south of the landing. Ramshorn Creek is seen winding through the marsh about a quarter of a mile south of the Catskill dock. . *Catskill (W. S.) contains a population of about 2500 souls. This is the landing-place for those who visit the Catskill Mountain House. A stage leaves Catskill for Ithaca every morning at 7 o'clock, to meet the steamboat on Cayuga Lake, which runs to Cayuga bridge, where stages are in readiness to con- vey passengers immediately to Rochester. Passen- gers for Ithaca generally land at tliis place or New- burgh. Catskill Creek empties into the Hudson at the south side of the dock. It is a very considerable stream, and forms a harbour for the sloops that sail from this place. 33 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. Stages are always at the dock on the arrival of the 7 o'clock boats from New-York, ready to take parties to the Mountain. The distance by the road is 12 miles, although in a direct hne it is only 8. The time taken in performing the journey is about four hours in going and a little over two hours in re- turning. The road is very fine and level for 9 miles, when the ascent from the foot of the mountain com- mences by a winding road, which leads to the west end of the Pine Orchard ; for the following descrip- tion of which, we are indebted to Mr. N. G. Elliot, of Catskill. Pine Orchard. — Few places of fashionable re- sort present stronger attractions to the tourist than the Pine Orchard. A few years ago this delightful retreat was almost unknown, and rarely visited, but by the hardy hunter in pursuit of the deer, the bear, and the wolf, who had hitherto maintained undis- turbed possession of its cliffs and caverns. At length the tale of the extent and beauty of the prospect and the grandeur of the scenery drew the attention of individuals of taste ; and the glowing descriptions they gave of its surpassing magnificence effectually roused and fixed the attention of the public. Each successive season the number of visiters has in- creased, till the temporary buildings at first erected for their accommodation have given place to a splen- did hotel, 140 feet in length and four stories high. This estabhshment has been erected by the Moun- tain Association, at an expense of about $22,000, It occupies the eastern verge of a table of rock some six acres in extent, and about 3000 feet above the river. An excellent line of stages is established to this place from Catskill, a distance of 12 miles. The ride to the foot of the mountaiii is not particu- PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 33 larly interesting, but as you ascend every moment developes something magnificent and new. The sides of the mountain, steep and seemingly inacces- sible, tower far above you, clothed in the rich deep foliage peculiar to such regions ; while below your path a clear stream runs, one moment bubbling over its rocky bed, and the next leaping down its cascades to the valley. The road is extremely circuitous, and so completely hemmed in by the luxuriant growth of forest trees, that the traveller is for a long time unable to judge of his progress in the ascent by any view of the country he has left. At an abrupt angle of the road, however, he obtains at once a full view of the Mountain House — perched like the eyrie of an eagle among the clouds — or rather like the enchanted castle in a fairy tale ; seemingly inaccessible to mor- tal foot, still it reminds him of such terrestrial com- forts as are sure to be acceptable after exercise in the pure air of the mountains. Another turn and it again disappears, and the excited traveller next finds himself on the level rock of the Pine Orchard, and approaching the hotel from the rear. A moment more and he is on the edge of the precipice in front of the noble building. At first glance he would be led to believe, with Leather Stocking, that creation was all before him, and he is forced to admit that his wildest anticipations are more than realized. The view from Table Rock has been compared, by those who have seen both, to that from the summit of Ve- suvius over the Bay of Naples and the adjacent coasts. In features they are unlike ; but in char- acter the same. From this lofty eminence all in- equalities of surface are overlooked. A seemingly endless succession of woods and waters, farms and villages, towns and cities, are spread out as upon a 34 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. boundless map. Far beyond rise the Taghkanick Mountains, and still further the highlands of Con- necticut and Massachusetts. A little to the left, and at a still greater distance, the Green Mountains of Vermont stretch away to the north, and their blue summits and the blue sky mingle and melt together. The beautiful Hudson, studded with islands, appears narrowed in distance, with steamboats almost con- stantly in sight ; while vessels of every description, spreading their white canvass to the breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loitering in the calm. These may be traced to the distance of nearly 70 miles with the naked eye ; and again at times all below is enveloped in dark cloud and roll- ing mist, which, driven about by the wind, is con- tinually assuming new, wild, and fantastic forms. The whole produces an effect on the beholder un- equalled by that of any other scene in this country. The gazer turns from the sight, compelled to acknow- ledge that all is beautiful and all is new. Visiters, who have here assembled from various motives, all depart satisfied and delighted. The student, pale and exhausted wath study and confinement, has for a while forsaken his books, and found new vigour in the " medicinal freshness" of the mountain air. The idler and the invalid have been well rewarded for their toils ; the one by the accession of health and strength, the brightened eye and quickened pulse, and the other by obtaining excitement, exer- cise, and pleasure, in exchange for the irksome monotony of the world below. All are for a while freed from the idle ceremonials of life, and permitted to hold unrestrained converse with Nature and her works. From the Pine Orchard a ride or walk of 1^ miles brings you to the PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 35 Cauterskill Falls. — Here the outlet of two in- considerable lakes leaps down a perpendicular fall of 180 feet; then glides away through a channel it has worn in the rock to a second fall of 80 feet. Below this it is lost in the dark ravine through which it finds its way to the valley of the Catskiil. The waterfall, bold as it is, forms however but one of the many interesting features of this scene. Standing on the edge of the first fall, you look down into a dreary chasm whose steep sides, covered with the dark ivy and the thick foliage of summer, seem like a green bed prepared for the reception of the waters. Making a circuit from this spot, and descending about midway of the first fall, you enter a footpath which conduQts into an immense natural amphitheatre be- hind the waterfall. The effect of this scene is im- posing beyond description. Far over your head pro- jects a smooth surface of rock, forming a magnifi- cent ceiling to this amphitheatre. In front is the ever-falling water, and beyond, the wild mountain- dell with the clear blue sky above it : the scene can only be appreciated on the spot. The tourist should bear in mind that the falls must be seen from below to produce the best effect, and that the view from the Pine Orchard is much finer from 3 o'clock P.M. till sunset, than in the middle of the day. Coaches leave the Mountain every morning at 7 o'clock, and arrive in time to take the boat that leaves Albany at 7 o'clock for New- York. They also leave in the afternoon, and arrive in time for the day boat for Albany, and the night boat for New- York. *HuDsoN (E. S.), was first founded in 1784, by 30 individuals, emigrants from Providence, R. I., and is now quite a large and important city ; the only one 3i5 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. between New-York and Albany. Its population is about 6000. It is situated on an elevated plain, and the bank rises from the river in the fonri of an ab- rupt bluff, from 50 to 60 feet in height. Hudson has great advantages of water-power in the vicinity, and ranks as the third in manufacturing importance in the state. A company of gentlemen of this place have recently engaged in the whale-fishery. They have three ships employed, and are likely to make it profitable. This is the landing-place for those who wish to visit New-Lebanon Springs at the Shaker Settlement, on the road from Albany to Boston, about 25 miles from Albany and 30 from Hudson. It is a delightful village, containing many attractions for travellers, among which is a mineral spring, which, together with the pleasantness of the country, ren- ders it the resort of invalids, and those who seek for health in the fresh air of the country. There are here several bathing-houses, well conducted, for which the water is well adapted, being less medicinal than that of the Saratoga Springs, but clear and soft. In the vicinity of the spring is the Shaker village, consisting of a considerable number of plain wooden houses, painted and adorned in the most unostenta- tious manner. The peculiar religious services of this people excite the curiosity of strangers, and access to them is easily obtained. The settlement consists of about 600 persons, which " little com- munity, slowly increasing in numbers, pretty rapidly in wealth and power, is a sort of miniature of a world, all of one sort, beyond which it is deemed fatal to extend a look or a mental vision !" Stages leave Boutwell's hotel for the Springs, daily, at half-past 7 in the morning, and in the after- noon, on the arrival of the morning boats fpom New- I PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 37 York. The Claverack Falls are 9 miles from Hud- son. No stages run regularly to the Falls, but they can be procured at any time at Bryan's hotel. The water falls 150 feet without interruption, except by a small point of rock which juts out from the main crag. Athens (W. S.), opposite Hudson, is a large vil- lage, located on plains gently sloping towards the river. A large number of sloops sail from this place. Numerous mansions of private gentlemen adorn this pleasant village. A canal has been cut through a low marshy island in the river, between this place and Hudson, through which a horse ferry- boat phes regularly every hour. CoLUMBiAviLLE (E. S.), 4 milcs above Hudson, is in sight from the river, about a quarter of a mile from its bank. It is situated on Kinderhook Creek^ which empties into the river. There are two cotton-fac- tories at the village, owned by Messrs. Wild and Jenkins. The scenery in the vicinity is of a wild and romantic character. Four Mile Point (W. S.), is a high rocky point of land opposite Columbiaville. *CoxsACKiE Landing (W. S.). This is quite an enterprising place ; a number of sloops sail for New- York, daily, with the produce of the interior. The village is one mile in rear of the Landing, and ha3 about the same number of buildings. There is a handsome brick church at the landing, an extensive hay-press, and a ship-yard in wliich many sloops and canal boats are built, and two or three steam-boats have been constructed. Small ships occasionally haul up here to repair. *Stuyvesant Landing (E. S.), contains about 50 houses, a few istoree, a post-office, church, &c. D 38 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. Nearly opposite is a light-house, erected in 1829, under the direction of Samuel Swartwout, collector of the port of New-York. Two miles above, on the east side, is another, which was erected at the same time. KiNDERHooK is situated 5 miles inland. New-Baltiiviore (W. S.). There is a yellow store- house on the dock, from which a sloop sails once a week. *CoEYMANS (W. S.). Red store-house on one wharf, white on the other. There is a stone build- ing just south of this landing, on which an antiquary might gaze with interest. A flouring-mill will be seen a little north of the village. Castleton (E. S.), 8 miles from Albany — brick store on one dock, white hay-press on the other. Mr. J. B. Staats's place (E. S.), 5 miles from Al- bany, is called Hoge-hergh, which, in Enghsh, signi- fies high hill. Fan Wie's Point (W.S.), 5 miles from Albany. The Overslaugh, 3 miles below Albany, is a place where the channel is very shoal and narrow, and oc- casionally the steam-boats are obliged to " lay-to" for an hour or two, until the tide rises. An immense sum has been expended for the improvement of the channel ; but it soon fills up again. Albany is in sight from this place. Greenbush is nearly opposite Albany. A steam ferry-boat plies between the two places. The city of Albany is the capital of New- York, the "empire state," and contains a population of about 30,000 souls. About the year 1612, some emigrants from Holland settled here ,• and it is be- Ueved to be the oldest settlement in the United States, with the exception of Jamestown iuYirginia, PASSAOK UP THE HUDSON. 39 of which place, however, nothing save a few ruins now remains. After Hudson's discovery of the river bearing his name, he returned to Holland, and the States' General granted a patent to sundry merchants for an exclu- sive trade on tlie river, who in 1614 erected a small fort on an island a short distance below the present city, which however was shortly after abandoned in consequence of the floods ; and in 1617 Fort Orange was erected. This stood at about the spot now oc- cupied by the Fort Orange Hotel, in South-Market- street. On the 24th September 1664 the garrison at the fort surrendered to an Enghsh force under Col. Car- teret, who named the place xilbany, in compliment to the Duke of York and Albany, the then proprietor of the province under & charter from Charles H., to whom the Dutch had surrendered. In 1686 the city was incorporated under a charter- granted by Governor Dongan. In this charter it is called " an ancient city." Previously to the revolu- tionary war the city was surrounded by a stockade ; the houses were in. the Dutch style of architecture, with the gable end to the street, and the city bore a very rural aspect. Almost every house had a large tree at the door, many of which we are told " were of prodigious size and extraordinary beauty." Until ' within a few years many of these old buildings were standing ; but recently the progress of modern im- provement has destroyed nearly the whole of them ; a few however still remain, the solitary monuments of " olden time." During the revolutionary war, Albany was a post of great importance, being the point of communica- tion with all the western and northern fortresses, and 40 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. for the concentration of the American troops for all the military expeditions against the Canadas. In 1754 a Congress was convened here, consisting of commissioners from seven of the provinces, who enrolled among their nmnber some of the most cele- brated names m our colonial history. The congress formed a plan of union for the colonies, and advanced such doctrines and views as to their rights, as we are fully justified in believing, left a permanent im- pression in the minds of the colonists. Albany has now been the seat of government of the State of New-York nearly forty years, and has lately pro- gressed rapidly in extent and population, it having doubled within the last ten years. Its commerce and trade are very extensive. Being situated near the head of tide-water of the Hudson, and communicat- ing directly with the canals, 'its facilities for trans- portation to all parts of the country are very great, and constantly increasing. From the favourable position of the city, and the almost boundless wealth of the interior, it is but reasonable to suppose that Albany will continue to grow and flourish, and long remain what it already is, one of the first cities in our confederacy. The great Erie Canal terminates near the north line of the city, ait the head of a spacious basin. There are in the city several fine and costly pubUc buildings, as well as many private ones. The Capitol, at the head of State-street, is a fine stone edifice, 115 feet front, and has a portico sup- ported by four Ionic marble columns 33 feet in height. It is occupied for the sittings of the Legis- lature and the state courts. The Academy, which stands on the square north of the Capitol, is built of freestone, and considered PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 41 the most chaste and beautiful specimen of archi- tecture in the city. It cost about $100,000. The Lyceum of the " Albany Institute" occupies a part of this building. The City Hall, on the east side of the square, fronting the Capitol and Academy, is constructed of Singsing marble, and surmounted by a beautifully gilded dome — the only one it is believed in America. — It forms a prominent object in approaching the city, and when the sun shines upon it, can be seen twelve or fifteen miles distant. This building is used prin- cipally for city and county offices, and the several courts. Albany contains about 20 churches, several of which are very fine. It has also two Female Academies, a Theatre, Museum ; a very good City Library, and one of the best reading-rooms in the United States, under the direction of the " Young Men's Association," to which strangers can be ad- mitted without difficulty. Lectures are given by members of the society twice each week. Stanwix Hall, recently erected, is one of the most substantial and permanent buildings in our country. It is constructed of Quincy granite from the vicinity of Boston. The saloon of tliis building is at least equal to any similar one in the State. It is sur- mounted by a large dome which adds greatly to the effect. State House, in State-street, is a building of antique appearance ; but not otherwise remarka*ble. It is occupied by the secretary of state, chancellor, register, adjutant- general, &c. The Canal Bank, and Mechanics' Sf Farmers^ Bank stand in juxtaposition at the foot of State-street. The New-York State Bank stands in the centre of State-street. The Commercial Bank, and Bank of D2 42 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. Albany are at the foot of State-street, on the south side. The Museum Building, at the corner of State and Market streets, is built in nearly a semi-elliptical form, four stories high besides the basement, and is without doubt one of the most splendid buildings in the State, both as it regards architecture and the material of which it is constructed. The three upper stories are occupied by the Museum, containing a very large collection of curiosities of various descriptions, all of which are preserved and arranged in the most scientific manner. This concern is well worthy the attention of all who visit the city. The terrace affords a very extended view of the surrounding country. The Law Buildings, at the corner of Beaver and South Market streets, constitute one of the ornaments of the city. The South Dutch Church, enclosed in well-arranged grounds, extending from Beaver to Hudson-street, exhibits at each end a lofty portico supported by six large columns of freestone. The Albany Theatre is a handsome brick build- ing, scantily supplied with architectural ornaments in front. The interior is commodious and elegant. The Mohawk and Hudson Rail-road, between Albany and Schenectady, was commenced July 29, 1830, and a part of it was used in 1831, though it is not yet entirely completed. The main road terminates at the south end of the city, and for the convenience of the travelling public a branch has been constructed leading to the head of State-street. Locomotive engines and horse-power are alternately made use of for propelling the cars. There are now no packet-boats on the canal be- tween Albany and Schenectady. Two boats of this PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 43 description were employed on this route in 1827; but did not succeed, in consequence of the detention at the locks — no less than 27 in number. The dis- tance is 28^ miles. By the turnpike it is only 15 miles, which is accomplished in between two and three hours, while on the canal the passage occupies from twelve to fourteen hours. Persons wishing to take the packet-boats (which leave Schenectady for the West at 2 and 7 P.M.), take coaches at Albany on the arrival of the 5 o'clock boats from New-York, and arrive at Schenectady for the 2 o'clock packet, or at 3 o'clock, P.M., and arrive for the 7 o'clock packet. For Troy, 6 miles north of Albany, stages leave every hour ; and there are small steamboats which leave on the arrival of every boat from New-York, and at intermediate hours. Stages leave daily for Ballston and Saratoga Springs, at 6 and 9 o'clock, A.M., at 12 M., and 2, 3, and 5 o'clock P.M. For TJtica, Rochester, and Buffalo, daily, at 1 1 A.M., and 3 and 1 1 o'clock P. M. For Whitehall, daily, at 9 o'clock, A.M., to meet the steamboat on Lake Champlain, which runs to St. Johns, where passengers take stages for Mon- treal, distant about 30 miles. For Boston (through in two days), via. Lebanon Springs, Pittsfield, Northampton, and Worcester, daily, except on Sunday, at 2 o'clock, A. M. For Providence (through in two days), via. West- field, Munson, and Stockhridge, daily, except on Sun- day, at 2 o'clock, A. M. For Hartford (through in one day), via. Sheffield and Norfolk, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock, A.M. 44 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. For New-Haven (through in a day and a half), via. Litchfield, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock, P.M. For Lebanon Springs, via. Nassau Village, every morning at 9 o'clock. For Montreal (during the winter), every morning at 2 o'clock, — through in three days. For Cherry Valley, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 2 o'clock, A. M. Thorps' & Sprague's Stage-Office, corner of State and North Market streets. Baker & Walbridge's Office, corner of Hamilton and South Market streets. Rail-Road Office, 115 State-street. Steamboat Office, on the pier foot of State-street. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. The traveller may take the Mohawk and Hudson Rail-road from 115 State-street, and be whirled across " by steam," or take the stage, which calls at any place in the city ; when, after riding 1 5 miles over a sandy road, and through a barren country, with nothing to attract or interest the eye, he finds himself in the ancient city of Schenectady. According to tradition, this place seems to have been, long before the knowledge of it by Europeans, the head-quarters of the Mohawks, a very numerous and powerful tribe, who could at one time muster 800 warriors. The city, consisting of 63 houses and a church, was totally burnt in the dead of night, 1690, by a party of French and In- dians from Canada. Many of the inhabitants were massacred, some taken captive, and part fled to Al- bany, of whom a number lost their limbs, and all had well-nigh perished by the cold. Its present population is about 5000. This was a place of some considerable business, principally forwarding, a few years since, when goods were carried across the turnpike to the hatteaux on the Mohawk river ; but since the canal has been in operation, the busi- ness of Schenectady has been nearly annihilated, as it passes immediately on to Albany. The Schenectady and Saratoga Rail-road here com- mences, from the construction of which, the villages of Ballston Spa, and Saratoga Springs derive almost incalculable advantages. The cost of the road, 46 WESTERN ROUTIC FROM ALBANY. which is 211 miles in length, carriages, &c., was about $270,000. Union College was incorporated 1797, and is now in quite a prosperous condition. It occupies a very eligible situation, a short distance north-east of the city. Dr. Eliphalet Nott (inventor of the famed coal-stove), who is a great mechanical genius as well as a divine, is the president of the institution. The traveller now resumes his tour upon the great Western canal, the most stupendous chain of artificial navigation in this or any other country. In passing for hundreds of miles through rich and fertile tracts, and over obstacles which presented almost impassa- ble barriers to the great work of internal improve- ment, so boldly planned and perseveringly completed by the foresight, wisdom, and indefatigable exertions of Clinton and his compeers, the reflection will in- evitably suggest itself, that the State of New- York has ample reason to indulge a feeling of pride in contemplating the beneficent results of the triumphant labours of those who planned and completed this monument to her public spirit and enterprize. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 47 CANAL ROUTE. The several places and distances, as they occur on the canal route from Albany to Buffalo, are as follows : DISTANCE FROM fe o CD M ;5 O o d pq Albany . . . . . no 270 363 Troy .... . . 7 7 103 263 356 Junction . . . 2 9 101 261 334 Schenectady . . 21 30 80 240 333 Amsterdam . . . 16 46 64 224 317 Schoharie Creek . 7 53 57 217 310 Caughnawaga . . . 4 57 53 213 306 Spraker's Basin . . 9 66 44 204 297 Canajoharie . . 3 69 41 201 294 Bowman's Creek . 3 72 38 198 291 Little Falls . . . 16 88 22 182 275 Herkimer . 7 95 15 175 268 Frankfort . . . 5 100 10 170 263 Utica. . . . . 10 110 160 253 Whitesborough . . 4 114 4 156 249 Oriskany . . . 3 117 1-1' 153 246 Rome ... . 8 125 15 145 238 Smith's . . . . . 7 132 22 138 231 Loomis's . 6 138 28 132 225 Oneida Creek . . 3 141 31 129 222 Canistota . 5 146 36 124 217 New-Boston . . . 4 150 40 120 213 Chitteningo . . . . 4 154 44 116 209 Manlius . . . . . 8 1Q2 52 108 201 48 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY Orville . Syracuse Geddes . Nine-Mile Creek Canton . Jordan . Weed's Basin Port Byron . Montezuma (La Clyde . . Lyons Newark . Palmyra . Fullom's Basin Pittsford Rochester . Ogden Adams's Basin Brockport HoUey . . Newport Portville . . Oak Orchard Middleport . Lockport Pendleton . Tonawanda . Black Rock Buffalo . . keport) 6 DISTANCE FROM 11 9 7 8 13 6 10 12 3 5 5 10 4 5 7 12 7 12 8 3 -< 165 171 173 179 185 191 197 200 206 217 226 233 241 254 260 270 282 285 290 295 305 309 314 321 333 340 352 360 363 61 63 69 75 81 87 90 96 107 116 123 131 144 150 160 172 175 180 185 195 199 204 211 223 230 242 250 263 o o 105 99 97 91 85 79 73 70 64 53 44 37 29 16 10 12 15 20 25 35 39 44 53 63 70 82 90 93 I pq 198 192 190 184 178 172 166 163 157 146 157 130 122 109 103 93 81 78 73 68 58 64 49 48 30 23 11 3 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 49 TABLE OF ROADS, FROM ALBANY TO BUFFALO. Inter- Total mediate. Distance. Schenectady 15 15 Amsterdam 15 30 Caughnawaga 10 40 Palatine Bridge . 12 52 LiUle Falls 21 73 Herkimer 7 80 Utica 16 96 Vernon . 15 111 Manlius 25 136 Onondaga 10 146 Auburn 24 170 Cayuga Bridge 9 179 Geneva. 13 192 Canandaigua 16 208 Batavia 48 256 Buflfalo 40 296 From Buflfalo to Niagara Falls . . 21 317 «« « " Lewiston .... 28 324 From Canandaigua to Rochester 28 28 Clarkson 18 46 Lewiston 60 100 Niagara Falls ....... 7 113 From Utica to Sackett's Harbour . .98 « « " Ogdensburgh . . .120 E so WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY The Ca7ial PacJcet-hoat, by which the traveller to the west continues his journey from Schenectady, is about 80 feet in length and 14 wide. A cabin in the forward part of the boat is fitted for ladies, with twelve berths, in a similar style to those of the steamboats on the Hudson. The dining-cabin is about 35 feet in length. The gentlemen's berths are not stationary, but are hung up in the dining-cabin at bed-time, by means of hooks fitted for the purpose. Back of the dming-cabin is the kitchen and sleeping- cabin for the hands. After leaving Schenectady, the boat passes through the town of Rotterdam, a most delightful tract of country, to the first lock, which will prove an inter- esting sight to those unacquainted with the science of canal navigation. The lower gates are opened, the boat runs in, the gates are closed, and the upper flood-gates opened. As an equilibrium takes place between the high water above the lock and that in the lock, the boat rises gradually about 8 feet, to the level of the water above. The acclivity being thus surmounted, the upper gates are opened, and the boat moves on uninterrupted. The distance from Sche- nectady to Utica is 80. miles, and the passage is performed in from 18 to 20 hours. The boats are drawn by three horses ahead of each other. The horses are changed about every 10 miles. After proceeding 15 miles, the tourist has a view of the village of Amsterdam, on the opposite side of the Mohawk River, which contains about 1 00 houses, and is destined to become a place of some importance from the manu- facturing facilities aflJbrded it by fails in a creek near it. A very fine bridge crosses the river at this place. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 51 A few miles farther is seen the stone house formerly the residence of Guy Johnson. Schoharie Creek. The canal crosses this creek by means of a guard-lock on each side, the gates of which are closed when the water is higher in the creek than the level of the canal, in order to prevent it from rushing into the canal and tearing away the embankments. The ruins of Fort Hunter are to be seen near the mouth of the creek. The Indian Church., called Queen Anne's Chapel, formerly stood on the spot where the eastern guard-lock now is. FuLTONviLLE, 27 miles from Schenectady. A stage leaves here for Saratoga Springs, daily, except on Sunday. Caughnawaga is directly across the river. Anthomfs Nose, on the south side of the canal, is one of the most prominent mountains on the whole line. Canajoharie (which signifies in the Indian tongue Boiling Pot), 38 miles from Schenectady. The canal runs through the northern section of this village, and a bridge crosses the river to Palatine. This will be the terminating point of the projected Catskill and Canajoharie Rail-road. Fort Plain village is 3 miles above Canajoharie. A large creek empties into the Mohawk at this place. The canal crosses the creek by means of guard-locks. Little Falls, 22 miles from Utica. These are rapids rather than falls. On each side the moun- tains are very high, leaving but a narrow space for the river, canal, and road to pass through. For about 2 miles the canal is formed by throwing up a wall into the river from 20 to 30 feet high, then ex- cavating into the mountain and filling it up. This was one of the most difficult and expensive parts of the canal, as it was necessary to blast the rock with OZ WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. gunpowder, to form the bed of the canal, for nearly the whole distance. A beautiful marble aqueduct crosses the river at this place, and leads into a basin opposite, where boats discharge and receive lading. The aqueduct has an elliptical arch of 70 feet, em- bracing the whole stream, except in time of freshets, and one on each side of 50 feet span. It is elevated about 25 feet above the surface of the river, " a foaming torrent, dashing over the bare rocks in a fearful and sublime style." There is a bridge just above, from which you have a fine view of the aqueduct, and the slab on which is engraved the names of the canal commissioners, the builders, &c. There are a number of fine buildings in the village on the opposite side of the river, principally of stone. Passengers disposed to pedestrianism generally leave the boat at the second lock, and walk until they reach the last. They are six in number, by which the boat is so much detained that a person may walk quite leisurely through the most wild and romantic scenery that can easily be imagined. A stage runs from this place to Trenton Falls every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at half-past 8, A.M., distance 24 miles. After leaving Little Falls, you pass through a most delightful plain called German Flats, for 7 miles, when the village of Herkimer is seen on the opposite side of the river. There is an island in the river at this place, from which a bridge leads to either shore. Pro- ceeding 5 miles farther, the canal passes through the village of Frankfort. Thence the traveller pursues his journey 10 miles, and finds himself in the beautiful and flourishing city of Utica. Utica is located on the site of old Fort Schuyler, WiRSTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 53 on the south bank of the Mohawk River, 96 miles west of Albany. It received a city charter in 1832. A charter was granted to this village in 1798, since which time its population has increased very rapidly. In 1813 it contained 1700 inhabitants ; by the census of July, 1830, it contained 8324 souls, — 4338 males, and 3986 females ; and the present population is estimated at about 10,000. Among the public in- stitutions are the following : the Oneida Institute of Science and Industry, which has a large farm attached to the Institution, on which each student labours from three to four hours each day, the Classical Academy, a Library, the Lyceum, Museum, two banks, and nine churches. Very pleasant ex- cursions are frequently made from tliis place to Whitesborough, York Mills, Clinton Village (contain- ing Hamilton College), Rome, and to the wild, pic- turesque, and romantic Trenton Falls. Stages leave Utica every morning at 5 o'clock for Auburn, Roches- ter, Osivego, and Buffalo ; they also leave in all di- rections on the arrival of the packet-boats from the east and west : stages leave for Trenton Falls four times a day, during the summer months ; packets leave for Schenectady every morning. Trenton Falls, 13 miles from Utica, constitute an object of curiosity and admiration to which the traveller is irresistibly attracted. It does not com- port with the design of this work to enter into a de- tailed description of these falls ; merely to call atten- tion to them fulfils our design. They are on the West Canada Creek, a large stream which empties into the Mohawk, and are about 24 miles above its mouth. They consist of several chutes, commencing near the Black River Road, and terminating at Con- rad's Mills, a distance of more than 2 miles. The E 2 54 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. Upper Fall is 18 or 20 feet, but the previous descent of the water in the two miles above is supposed to be 60 feet. The water at this first fall is received into a large basin, and winds its way downward through a precipitous ravine 100 feet in depth, and on the summits of its banks 200 feet across This ravine presents some of the most romantic peculiari- ties. In many places the topmost crags overhang the stream, and some hardy trees, rooted in the crev- ices of the rock, throw their branches athwart the abyss. There are six distinct falls. The one we have already noticed, which is above the bridge on the Black River road. The next consists of two pitches, and is known as " The Cascades,'''' where the water is compressed into a very narrow space, and falls 18 feet. At the Mill-dam Falls, next in suc- cession, the descent is 14 feet. A short distance below is the High Falls, consisting of three pitches, the first of which is 48 feet, the second 11 feet, and the third 37 feet ; the three, including the intervening slopes and pitches, constituting a descent of 109 feet. The fifth is called Sherman's Falls, about 70 rods below the High Falls, and the descent is about 35 feet. The last fall is at Conrad'' s Mills, and is 6 feet. The whole descent from the top of the upper fall to the foot of that at Conrad's Mills is 387 feet. When the water is high, many of the distinct pitches are lost in the rushing cataract ; and it is only when the stream is low that each fall can be separately seen. A stairway is formed at the bottom of the ravine, by means of which a view is obtained of Sherman's Falls, and whence the visiter passes up within the ravine, under over-arching rocks, to the foot of the high fall. The whole forms a stupen- dous scene : and those feelings of awe which the WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 55 wilder works of nature impress upon the mind are powerfully excited. Organic remains have hitherto been found in abundance in the ravine, and Mr. Sher- man (at whose house accommodations are afforded to visiters) has a cabinet of these remains,* which are exhibited to the curious. The following are the principal hotels in Utica: the Canal Coffee-House, kept by Mr. Shepard, late of the United States Hotel, is at the packet-boat landing; the National Hotel, three doors north of the canal ; Mr. Bagg's Hotel, corner of Main and Genesee streets ; United States Hotel ; Oneida Temperance House, and Clinton House — are all very fine estab- lishments. The Packet-boats leave Utica every day at 2 o'clock, P.M., for Rochester and Buffalo. The fol- lowing is an extract from the advertisement of the proprietors. " This line is intersected by a line of packets running between Syracuse and Oswego. Passengers travelling between Utica and Oswego will meet with no delay in passing from one line to the other at Syracuse, and will find this route both interesting and expeditious. A boat for passengers will ply between Geneva and Montezuma, where this hne is also intersected by the steamboat on Seneca Lake." The boat passes through the following villages on the passage to Rochester : Whitesborough, Rome, New-London, Canistota, New-Boston, Chittenango, Manlius, Syracuse, Canton, Jordan, Montezuma, Clyde, Lyons, Neioark, Palmyra, and arrives at Rochester in time for the morning boat for Buffalo. There is nothing of much interest on the canal for the first sixty miles west of Utica. It is a perfectly level and marshy country, without a lock in the whole distance ; therefore the general course is to take the 66 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. Stage in the morning and arrive at Syracuse in the evening, lodge at Mr. Comstock's "Syracuse House" (which is a very extensive well-furnished hotel, and kept in the first style), and be ready to take the packet; as it pas^s, about 5 o'clock in the morning. Syracuse is the most important place between Utica and Rochester, and contains about 600 build- ings ; among which are 4 churches, 2 very extensive hotels, one on each side of the canal, which is lined with lofty warehouses, giving it the appearance of New-York in miniature.* The importance of this flourishing village is principally owing to the im- mense quantity of salt produced in the vicinity. Great quantities are manufactured from the vast number of springs by which the whole body of the soil is impregnated. The salt is manufactured by solar evaporation. The water is brought in logs from the village of Salina, about one mile and a half distant, and emptied into the vats, which occupy nearly 300 acres. The vats are all covered with light roofs, which are moveable at pleasure, to admit the rays of the sun upon the water, or to prevent the rain from mingling with it. The salt is removed from the vats twice or three times in the course of the summer. Parties visiting Niagara frequently take the canal from this place to Oswego, 38 miles northward : proceed by steamboat on Lake Ontario to Lewiston, whence a stage ride of seven miles takes them to the Falls. There is a line of fine packet-boats on this route. The scenery is very interesting ; and during the last season it received a great portion of the fashionable northern and western travel. The Oswego Canal extends from Onondaga Lake * There was a great fire here in the spring of 1 834. Damage $100,000. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 57 to Lake Ontario at Oswego. It includes 20 miles of the Oswego River. The whole distance is 38 miles. Salina is a mile and a half north of Syracuse. The first salt-spring was discovered at this place by the Indians, from the circumstance of its being vis- ited by deer and other animals. The Osivego Canal commences at this place, the surplus water of which is used for the purpose of forcing (by a powerful hydraulian) the salt water 85 feet up the hill into a large reservoir. It is forced up at the rate of 300 gallons per minute, whence it is conveyed by logs to the factories in the neighbourhood, which amount to 175 within a circuit of seven miles. The springs and works all belong to the State, to which the manufacturers pay imposts of 63 cents per barrel of 6 bushels, which are applied, according to the con- stitution of the State, towards discharging the canal debt. Geddes is a small village, 2 miles west of Syra- cuse. A number of valuable salt-springs have been discovered at this place very recently. The manu- facturing establishments are within a few rods of the canal. After pursuing its course 7 miles farther, the canal crosses Nine Mile Creek, by means of an aqueduct with two arches, under which the creek flows. Weed's Basin, 15 miles from Syracuse, contains about 80 houses, and is improving. Auburn is 7 miles south of Weed's Basin, for which place stages leave daily. The State Prison is located at Auburn, on the banks of the Owasco Creek. The machinery of the prison is propelled by the water from this creek. Montezuma is a flourishing village. There is a 68 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. salt manufacturing establishment one mile north of it, to which a side-cut from the canal affords means of communication. Passengers intending to visit Ithaca Falls land here. Ithaca. This is a beautiful village, situate at the head of Cayuga Lake. Founded by the present Surveyor-general at an early day. In 1810 it had 400 inhabitants ; it has now over 5000. It contains several churches, manufactories, an academy, and literary societies ; several newspaper and book es- tablishments, several fine hotels, and is surrounded with the most splendid scenery. It is situated on a fiat of great extent, through which the Cayuga inlet passes on the western side of the village. It has some fine mills, and immense water-powers yet un- employed. This place has a very extensive commerce with New-York and Pennsylvania. It is said that one- tenth of the tolls paid upon the canal at Montezuma for produce going east is paid by the traders of Ithaca and its vicinity. To tourists its great attraction consists in its scenery, and for this reason we give it so particular a notice. During the last season a great many per- sons visited it, and were astonished at what they saw. The following is a brief description of the Falls at and near Ithaca. The falls of Fall River are near the village, and are seen on entering the village from the steamboat landing. Its height is 1 1 6 feet, with a proportionate breadth. Two immense piles of rocks enclose the stream ; and on the right-hand, high up the bank, a mill-race is seen winding round a point of the bank, suspended in mid-air, and now and then an adven- turous visiter carefully treading his way along the WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 59 dizzy path. This race-way was built in an extra- ordinary manner ; — ^A person let himself down from a tree standing on a liigh point above, and swinging over the giddy steep, he there dug out places in the rock in which to fasten the principal supporters of the race. The view from this point is grand and impressive. A short distance from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, the visiter proceeds until his steps are arrested by another splendid fall ; the bank pre- senting the most curious forms, and the most sur- prising strata. The fall is beautiful ; it is not so high as the preceding, but it is more wild ; the water pours over in large sheets, commencing, as it were, from the topmost ledge, and then spreading out widely and boldly below. The basin into which the water falls is also very picturesque. There are two more falls beyond these, which, with the others, make the descent 438 feet in the short space of one mile. There are some beautiful falls on the Cascadilla, though the effect of two of them has been destroyed by a high miU-dam thrown across the bed of the stream. On the Six Mile Creek and on the Buttermilk Creek there are also a great number of beautiful and romantic falls, all worthy of particular notice, and equal to any thing in this country. These are all at the village. On the Five Mile Creek, which is a few miles south from Ithaca, is one of the most splendid falls of water ever beheld. It is impossible to describe its majestic character. At Goodwin's Point there is still another fall, called the Taghcanic. This point is a place where the K^teamboats land daily. 60 "WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. The ravine is ascended for about a quarter of a mile, and then the eye is amazed with a fall of water of 200 feet in perpendicular height, a breadth of 60 feet, and banks of lock 360 feet high. The stream of water varies in quantity, though it is always a full stream. There is fine fishing and shooting during the sea- son about Ithaca. The lake is a lovely sheet of water 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 miles wide. Several neat villages are situated on its banks, and its surface is often white with sails. Travellers who wish to embrace the pleasures of this excursion will find the following routes decidedly the best : From New- York, via. Newburgh, to Ithaca, 2 days. « " " Catskill, " " 2 « « " " Utica and Auburn, 3 " " " " Montezuma & canal, 4 " The steamboat De Witt Clinton, low pressure, with elegant accommodations, and making the passage in from four to five hours, including ten landings, leaves the bridge, East Caynga, every day, at 1 o'clock, P.M., Ithaca at 7, A.M. The Telemachus, every other day, with canal-boats in tow. These boats are owned by Messrs. De Witt & Bloodgood, of Albany. They are both on the An- nesly plan, which is found in these instances to suc- ceed admirably. There is a superb hotel, called the Clinton House, at Ithaca. One mile from Montezuma the canal enters the Montezuma marsh, 3 miles in extent, which is a most solitary, desolate, and dreary swamp. After leaving WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 61 the marsh, and travelUng 8 miles, the traveller passes the flourishing village of Clyde, which contains a glass-blowing establish- ment. Palmyra is a handsome business-looking village, in Wayne county. It is built on the southern side of the canal. There are a number of factories and mills in the vicinity situated on Mud Creek, which runs eastward about 40 rods from the main street. Passengers and goods destined for Canandaigua land at this place. Fullom's Basin, 13 miles from Palmyi'a. The distance by canal to Rochester is 16 miles, and by land only 7^ ; in' consequence of which passengers frequently take stages from this place ; by doing this, however, the view of the Great Embankment is lost. The embankment commences about 4 miles from Fullom's Basin, and extends 2 miles, at an elevation of about 70 feet, from which there is a fine prospect of the surrounding country. PiTTSFORD, containing about 100 buildings, is 2 miles farther. After proceeding 10 miles from Pitts- ford, the boat arrives at the large and prosperous city of Rochester, the most extensive, populous, and im- portant place in the western country. The legisla- ture granted a city charter in the session of 1834. It has been termed the "Western New- York." The Genesee River passes through the city, and the Great Falls, 97 feet in height, are about 80 rods below. From the centre of these falls the cele- brated Sam Patch, of immortal memory, made his " last jump," in the autumn of 1829. He precipi- tated himself from a scaffold erected 25 feet above Table Rock, making an elevation of 125 feet. An F 62 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. immense number of persons had collected from many miles distant, to witness this last and, as it proved, fatal leap. His body was not found until the en- suing spring. In 1812, Rochester was a wilderness; and in the short space of twenty-one years its growth has been unprecedented, as will be perceived by a slight glance at its present . statistics. It contains 2000 buildings, and a population of 12,000. In the south part of the city the canal runs parallel with the eastern bank of the river for half a mile, and at but a short distance. At the centre of the city it crosses the river by a spleiidid aqueduct, 804 feet long, with 11 arches of from 26 to 50 feet chord, elevated 14 feet from the surface of the river. It is con- structed of red freestone, and cost over $80,000. The height of the canal at Rochester is 501 feet above the tide waters of the Hudson, and 64 feet below Lake Erie. There are two bridges across the river. ■ The principal hotels are, the Eagle Tavern-, Rochester House, Mansion House, Arcade House, and Clinton House. The principal public buildings are, the Court-House, jail, 12 churches, and 2 banks, viz. Bank of Rochester and Bank of Monroe. In the vicinity of the city there are eleven flouring-mills, with fifty-three run of stones, capable of grinding 12,000 bushels of wheat every 24 hours. The Arcade was erected in 1829. It is 100 feet front by 135 deep, and four stories high, exclusive of the attic and basement. There are six stores in front, besides a large hall, which leads to the Arcade, where the Atheneum, Post-office, Arcade House, and a variety of offices are situated. An Observatory, in the form of a Chinese pagoda, is erected on the top, from which the visiter may obtain a magnificent view of the country WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 63 The steamboats United States and Osivego, on Lake Ontario, ascend the Genesee River within three miles of Rochester.* A rail-road leads from the city to the steamboat landing, and passengers will find this a convenient point of embarkation for York, U. C, Niagara Falls, and all the other ports on Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. ■Stages leave Rochester, daily, for Albany, via. Canandaigua, Geneva, Auburn, Onondaga, Utica, Little Falls, and Schenectady, distance 237 miles. They also leave, daily, for Buffalo, via. Lewiston and Niagara Falls, passing over the ridge-road, distance 104 miles; and via. Caledonia, Leroy, and Batavia for Buffalo, distance 77 miles. Packet-boats leave Rochester every morning for Buffalo and Albany. After leaving Rochester in the boat for Buffalo, and passing a number of small places, the traveller arrives at the thriving village of Brockport. This is a pretty village ; the build- ings and grounds of its inhabitants displaying much taste. It chiefly owes its origin to, and derives its name from, the enterprising Hiel Brockway, Esq. Oak Orchard, 44 miles from Rochester. It is located on the bank of a creek of the same name. The largest arch on the whole line of canal is at this place, over which the canal crosses the creek. Travellers, wishing to see this " work of man," must leave the boat a short time before reaching it, as no «top is made, and walk rapidly forward in order to gain time ; and they will be taken on board at the village, when the boat passes. There is a passage * We would advise travellers to depend more on new^spaper advertisements in relation to these boats, than the assertions of individuals, whose interest may not prompt them to be over' scrupulous in regard to giving correct information. 64 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. to the bottom of the arch by means of circular steps, and a path underneath, which leads to the village. 19 miles farther is the flourishing village of LocKPORT. It is situated on the mountain ridge ; and there are here five locks for ascending and five for descending by the canal, situated a few yards below the village. These locks are constructed in the most permanent manner, and the science and so- lidity displayed by them has often been spoken of with admiration. There are stone steps between the rows of locks, guarded on each side with iron rail- ings. This is the most stupendous work on the whole route. In 1821 there were but 2 houses at this place ; now there are nearly 400, and more than 2000 inhabitants. Passengers who intend visiting the Niagara Falls frequently take stage here, and proceed to Manchester (the American Fall), 23 miles distant, or to Lewiston, which is 7 miles below the Falls, and visit Manchester afterward. After pass- ing Lockport 7 miles, the boat arrives at Tonnewanta Creek^ which forms the canal for 12 miles to its mouth. Hence the canal is carried along the shore of the Niagara River for 8 miles to the village of Black Rock, which is on the west bank of the river, and is a place of considerable size, containing 700 inhabitants. The former activity of this village has recently much diminished, as Buffalo has over- grown it, and attracted most of the business once transacted here. The private mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war (who resides here), makes quite a splendid appearance from the water. From Black Rock the canal runs along the bank of the river, 3 miles, to Buffalo. Buffalo is a beautiful, flourishing city, at the out- let of Lake Erie, possessing the twofold advantages WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 65 of a lake and canal navigation. The time is not far distant when it will rank with and rival any of the Atlantic cities. As a point for the concourse of strangers and voyagers, passing to and fro for plea- sure or business, Buffalo in the summer season pre- sents a singularly busy and active scene. The daily ingress and egress of such persons, by canals, stages, and steamboats, would seem incredible for a place of its size, as much for variety of their origin and destination as for their numbers. All the world in variety seem to be passing here. Besides the busy hum and animating effect of business, the love of nature and of pleasure will ever keep their swarm- ing devotees hovering over such a stupendous and attractive object as Niagara's everlasting cataract. Buffalo seems to be the principal place of repose, in approaching to and receding from this scene. And the daily panorama of grave philosophy, of beauty, of fashion, and of pleasure, exhibited here, as if about to bend in adoration before the miposing spec- tacle of the mighty waters, thundering from the heights above into the ever-raging abyss below, or as if returning satiate from the deafening and cease- less roar of this wondrous water-fall, presents so shifting and variegated a picture as never to tire the lookers-on. The commerce of Lake Erie has increased within the last six years beyond all precedent. Then there were five steamboats and from 20 to 25 other vessels ; last season 20 steamboats and 135 schooners were in operation. Eleven new steamboats and 30 sailing- craft commence this season, making in all thirtT/ steamboats (the Washington having been lost last season) and 165 sailing vessels now engaged in the carryir^g trade between Buffalo and Detroit. F 2 66 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. The city contains a population of from 12 to 13,000, and about 2000 buildings. More than 400 were erected during the year 1833. In 1830 the population was between 6 and 7000. There are several splendid churches, a court-house, museum, and some fine hotels. The Eagle Tavern ranks among the best in the Union. Stages leave Buffalo every morning for Utica, via. Canandaigua, through in three days, stopping nights; and every evening, through in two days, going day and night. — Every day for Rochester. — Every morn- ing, at 6 o'clock, for Niagara Falls (on the American side), passing through the villages of Black Rock and Tonnewanta, distance 23 miles. After remain- *ing at the Falls two or three hours, tliis stage pro- ceeds to Fort Niagara, passing through Lewiston. — Every morning, at 8 o'clock, for Niagara Falls on the Canada side, passing through Black Rock, crosses the river to Waterloo, passes over the Chip- pewa battle-ground, through Chippewa village to Niagara Falls ; distance 22 miles. Stages leave Niagara for Queenston and Fort George, daily, at 3, P.M. Steamboats leave Buffalo every morning, at 8 o'clock, for Chippewa village (passing round Grand Island*), and reach there about noon. Stages are in readiness at this place to convey passengers to the Falls. The boats return to Buffalo at 7 in the * Grand Island is 12 miles long, from 2 to 7 broad, and con- tains about 48,000 acres of well-timbered land. A company from Boston have recently purchased it, and erected a sawing- mill. They design taking up the trees entire, and sawing frames of vessels to order for the Atlantic cities. Indeed they have already sent several to the Boston market. An attempt was made m 1825 to establish a Jewish cobny on this island, but it failed. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 67 evening. Steamboats leave twice each day, morn- ing and evening, for Detroit, via. Erie, Grand River, Cleaveland, and Sandusky; distance 305 miles. — Every day for Erie (Penn.), via. Dunkirk and Port- land. After leaving Buffalo in the stage, and passing the village of Black Rock, the Niagara River is crossed by a horseboat, and the traveller arrives at the small village of Waterloo, on the Canada side ; near which are the ruins of the memorable Fort Erie. This place is celebrated as the theatre of several severe battles during the last war. After passing 1 5 miles farther, over a sandy, though very good road, the tourist arrives at Chippeioa battle-ground. The battle of Chippewa, probably one of the most bril- liant actions recorded in the annals of war, was fought on the 5th of July, 1814. One mile north of the battle-ground, the traveller notices a small cluster of buildings ; this is the village of Chippewa. There are two or three mills in the vicinity, situate on Chippewa Creek, which runs through the village. Lundys Lane is one mile farther north. A san- guinary battle was fought here on the 25th of July, 1814. Burning Spring is half a mile north of Lundy's Lane. The spring is enclosed by a small building. A barrel is placed over the spring, which has a cover with a tube in it, through which the gas (sulphuretted hydrogen) escapes : v/hen a light is applied, it ignites and burns brilliantly. The keeper of the spring re- quires a small fee from visiters. Half a mile north of this spring are the celebrated Niagara Falls. These falls are situated below Grand Island, on the Niagara River, about 20 miles from Lake Erie, and 14 miles from Lake Ontario. 68 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. This river unites the waters of these two lakes, and is from 1|- to 6 miles in width. Above the falls the banks are from 4 to 100 feet in height, and, imme- diately below, not less than 300. They gradually diminish in height until they reach the shores of Lake Ontario. The river at the falls is about one mile in width ; the cataract pours over a concave summit, and falls (on the American side) almost perpendicularly 164 feet. The Horse-shoe Fall (on the Canada side) descends, in a curved form, pro- jecting about 50 feet from its base, to the distance of 158 feet. The descent of the rapids above the falls about 58 feet, making the whole height over 200 feet. Table Rock, which projects about 50 feet, is generally considered the most eligible place for viewing the falls on the Canada side. The descent from the rock is by circular steps, which are enclosed; at the foot of these stairs commences the passage under the great sheet of water, where visitants are supplied with dresses and a guide. The farthest approachable distance is Termination Rock, 153 feet from Table Rock. An English writer, in speaking of this passage, says, " We reached a spot 153 feet from the outside, or entrance, by the assistance of a guide, who makes a handsome livelihood by this amphibious pilotage. There was a tolerably good, green sort of light within this singular cavern ; but the wind blew at first in one direction, then in another, with such alarming violence, that I thought at first we should be fairly carried off our feet, and jerked into the roaring caldron beneath. This tempest, however, was not nearly so great an inconvenience as the un- ceasing deluges of water driven against us. For- tunately, the direction of this gale of wind was WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 69 always more or less upwards, from the pool below, right against the face of the cliffs ; were it otherwise, I fancy it would be impossible to go behind the falls with any chance of coming out again. Even now there is a great appearance of hazard in the expe- dition, though experience shows that there is no real danger. Indeed, the guide, to reassure us, and to prove the difficulty of the descent, actually leaped downwards to the distance of five or six yards, from the top of the bank of rubbish at the base of the cliff, along which the path is formed. The gusts of wind rising out of the basin or pool below blew so violently against him that he easily regained the walk." The cataract of Niagara, the grandest spectacle in the world, suddenly bursting upon the sight of its first visiters, who could contemplate nature in her wild native dress, must have struck their senses more potently, and excited their feelings more in- tensely than it can now do of those who see it sur- rounded by cultivated fields, and monuments of art.* AVhat can we imagine more beautiful, more truly sublime, than a majestic river suddenly contracted into less than half its former width, after tumbling over a bed of loose rocks, precipitated, roaring as * Father Hennepin, a missionary traveller, who visited the Falls in 1679, says, " Between the Lake Ontario and Lake Erie there is a vast and prodigious cadence of water, which falls down after a surprising and astonisliing manner, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel. This wonderful water- fall is about 600 feet, and composed of two great cross streams of water, and two falls, with an isle sloping across the middle of it. The waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most hideous mamier imagmable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that of thunder ; for when the wand blows out of the south, their dismal roaring may be heard more than fifteen leagues off." 70 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. it were, with very terror, into a dark caldron below, maddened and lashed into foam white as the driven snow, and throwing up a thick column of spray tow- ering to the very arch of heaven, — a cloud that is seen to hang over the Falls by those navigating Erie and Ontario — by spectators a hundred miles distant from each other. Add to this impression on the eye, that made upon the ear, and our own senses partake of the wild tumult of the scene. Confused, we leave the spot with a true idea of the vast, the grand, the sublime. The Falls on the American side (divided from the British Falls by Goat Island, which stands on the very verge of the precipice) are truly magnificentj though of less magnitude than the other. Here the ad- mirer is presented with a variety of charming views and an effective arrangement of the picturesque ; but for a single view, in which you would gaze on sub- limity itself, take your stand on Table Rock. A flight of stairs has been erected a few rods below the falls descending to the ferry, where a boat with good oarsmen is always ready to convey passengers to the opposite shore. Many are of opinion that the view from the boat, whirling about in the eddies, is more interesting than any other : we advise all to cross and judge for themselves. A bridge, constructed by Gen. P. B. Porter, of Black Rock, leads across the rapids to Bath Island, a quarter of a mile above the falls, which is con- nected to Goat Island by means of another bridge. At the toll-house on Bath Island is kept for sale a good collection of minerals and other curiosities of the country. Brig Island is near, and connected with Bath Island by a narrow bridge. It curiously WESTERN ROUTE FROJM ALBANY, 71 resembles the main and quarter decks of a brig, and is a delightful spot whereon to sip an ice or lemonade. Goat Island, sometimes called Iris, is laid out in delightful walks, which are shaded by a great variety of the lofty trees of the American forest. It de- rived its name from the fact of an aged and vener- able goat having resided, and held undisputed right there, for several years prior to its being trodden by human feet. There are many fine views of the rapids above, and of the grand fall on the Canada side, from several points on the island.* At the foot of this island is the Biddle Stairway^ erected by N. Biddle, Esq., president of the U. S. Bank. Near this place Sam Patch, who affirmed " Some things can be done as well as others," and whose ambition led him to seek fame by sinking rather than rising in the world, made a leap of 118 feet descent into the water below, from a platform supported by ladders erected for the purpose. This was in the fall of 1829, a short time previous to his last fatal jump at Rochester. Terrapin Bridge extends about ten feet over the precipice of the Crescent Fall, and afibrds a splendid view, though one that intimidates the gentle, and makes " the brave stand still." It naturally excites queer emotions to find one's self suspended, as it were, in mid-air, over a yawning precipice, . and causes an involuntary shudder as we turn our eyes from the giddy depths, and the ever-falling cataract. * When an object in the rapids approaches within a certain distance of the falls, it is difficult to rescue it, by reason of a magnetic attraction towards the precipice : hence the legend of the Indian, who, finding his canoe within the influence of tliis attraction, gave up ail hope, laid down his paddle, swallowed the last drop in his flask, shrouded himself in his blanket^ and vfas precipitated over the fall. 73 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. The Castle is located about midway of this bridge, and has a camera ohscura on its summit, which pre- sents an effective miniature of the falls and rapids, particularly when the sun shines, as there are then always several rainbows in the vicinity. The lunar how, occasionally seen, is very beautiful. Whirlpool, 3 miles below the falls, is a curious combination of small pools, constantly generating and vanishing, included in one large sweep or pool, which is caused by a sudden elbow in the channel. It appears to the best advantage at low water ; and, at such times, the same log has frequently been known to remain whirling about in the pool more than a month. The prevailing idea, that nothing passes the whirlpool, that it is fathomless, and that every thing coming within its vortex is swallowed up and hurled into oblivion is entirely erroneous. The rapids for a mile .above here are beautiful, beyond comparison with those above the falls. DeviVs Hole is 1 mile farther down, and exhibits a precipice very favourable to the idea that the falls were once there. The theory that they have receded even from Lewiston has generally obtained, though, admitting it, their progress must have been extremely gradual, as La Hontaine* described them in their present position more than one hundred and fifty years ago. There is a tradition, that during the old French war, a party of traders, with their horses, wagons, and baggage, were precipitated from the road * Baron La Hontaine, who visited the Falls in 1683, says, " As for the waterfall of Niagara, 'tis 7 or 800 feet high, and half a league broad. Towards the middle of it we descry an island that leans towards the precipice, as if it were ready to fall. All the beasts that cross the water within half a quarter of a league (660 yards) above this unfortunate island are sucked in by force of the stream." WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 73 into this horrible chasm by a gang of hostile Indians whom they met when passing to Lake Erie. The Pavilion Hotel, on the Canada side, is situ- ated on a commanding spot above the falls. The .visiter has a beautiful view of the surrounding coun- try from the roof or piazzas. It is a handsome building, and capable of accommodating over 100 persons. The City of the Falls is laid out a short distance below the Pavilion, and several pretty cottages have already been erected. The land was purchased here by a company last, year, with a view to selling building-lots to the inhabitants of our Atlantic cities, as well as foreigners, who may desire a private sum- mer residence at the falls. There is a neat pretty village on the American side, called Manchester, in which are two fine hotels, both owned and kept by Gen. Whitney, whose pleas- ing manner, general urbanity, and good catering has secured him the patronage of a great portion of the visiters to the falls. From here there are stages going daily and almost hourly to Lewiston, a small village located on the ridge, forming the celebrated Ridge-road from Rochester to Lewiston, and in ap- pearance a very garden of fertility. From here the American steamboats leave three times a week for Ogdensburgh (on the route to Montreal) and the in- termediate places. Conveyances are also constantly plying from the British side to Queenston, directly opposite Lewiston, from which place the British boats depart on the route towards Montreal. Brock's Monument. This tribute to the memory of the gallant Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in an action with the Americans under Gen. Solomon Van Rens- selaer, October 13, 1812, was erected a few years G 74 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. since by several spirited individuals of Upper Can- ada. It has a base of about 20 feet square, with a spiral shaft extending to a height of 126 feet. A statue of Brock is intended to be placed on its sum- mit. It is located on the heights, about a quarter of a mile from Queenston, and affords the visiter a rich and varied view from its pinnacle. The steamb/Dats leaving Lewiston are, United States, Capt. R. J. Vandewater ; Osicego, Capt. R. B. Macy ; and William Avery, Capt. Sherman. On the British side, leaving Queenston, Great Britain, Capt. Whitney; William IV., Capt. Paynter ; Cobourg, Capt. Mcintosh ; and St. George, Capt. Harper. A boat will leave Lewiston or Queenston every day of the week. There are on the lake and St. Lawrence, between Ogdensburgh and Niagara, other boats : — United Kingdom, Queenston, Constitution, Kingston, Sir James Kempt, Britannia, Black Hawk, Charles Car7'oll, Perseverance, Brockville, Iroquois, Canada, Caroline, and Prescott. Leaving Lewiston the boat proceeds down the Niagara, whose verdant banks, still deep-moving current, and transparent surface cause us uncon- sciously to contrast the scene with the one we have last gazed on. — There are the " troubled waters," mad, billowy, and raging : here, calm, mild, and submissive, subsided into childlike placidity. As thou hast done since the creation of time, mayst thou ever " Flow on, thou stining river !" The first stop is at Youngstown, half a mile from the mouth of the river ; and the next at Fort Niagara, famed as the place of Morgan's imprisonment, which is located directly at the junction of the river and the lake. This place is fortified, but not garrisoned,' and is now used as a recfuiting station. Raw re- WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 75 cruits are here drilled for a time, and then sent to the western frontier. The village of Niagara, for- merly called Neivark, is directly across the river, and is quite an enterprising place. A dry-dock, of suf- ficient capacity to take out the largest vessels, has just been completed there. The ruins of Fort George are still to be seen there. The Welland Canal, con- necting the lakes Erie and Ontario, empties into Lake Ontario about 14 miles above this place. Many vessels ply regularly between the different ports on both lakes by means of this canal, though it is frequently out of repair, having never been fully finished. It was originally owned in part by the government of Upper Canada ; and the rest, being the major part, by individuals who last winter pro- posed to relinquish their stock, on condition that the government would reimburse them principal and in- terest. On the 28th January, 1834, the legislature passed a resolution acceding to the terms ; but on the following day had a reconsideration, which re- sulted in appropriating $200,000 for the improve- ment of the canal ; and it will no doubt soon be com- pleted, and prove beneficial to the community and profitable to the proprietors. We now strike out on the pure, broad waters of Lake Ontario, which is the boundary between the United States and Canada. It is 180 miles in length, and varies in breadth from 30 to 60 miles. The water is very deep, clear, and cold, and abounds with fine fish — the sturgeon, salmon, muskalonge, as also a great variety of smaller ones ; and from the following account of John Maude, under the date of August, 28th 1800, it seems that more uncomely fish were once, and perhaps now are, the tenants of this great inland sea : "A boat that had sailed from York» 76 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. the present seat of government, unexpectedly re- turned again ; the people on board relating with great terror their having seen a great snake, at least thirty feet long ; which, from its rearing its head and fore- part of its body out of the water, they conjectured meant to attack them. The Indians present, who have always a corroborating story ready, asserted, that their people had seen three such snakes, and had killed two !" York,* the seat of government of Upper Canada, is 36 miles from Fort Niagara, directly across the lake. The harbour is formed by a peninsula ex- tending into the lake, and affords great protection to vessels in hard weather, though it is very diificult of entrance, the channel being quite narrow. On the extremity of the peninsula a light-house is located ; and opposite, on the mainland, is the garrison and the battle-ground where the gallant Pike fell. York is a busy, bustling town, and presents more nearly the appearance of an American village than any other in the Canadas : there are a great number of stores, and many of them are kept by young men from the States. It is uncommonly thriving ; and the value of property is nearly as high as in the city of New-York: more than 300 buildings were erected in 1833. It was taken by the Americans, under Gen. Dearborn, in 1813, and soon after evacuated. There is a singular sect in this vicinity, of whom you occasionally see a specimen in town, called Tunhers or Dunkards : they present a most extra- ordinary appearance, wearing beards nearly two feet long, little skimmer hats, and long-skirted coats. * The American boats generally touch here on their pas- sage up or down the lake. This city is now called " Toronto." WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 77 Some miles in the interior is the village of Hope, which is inhabited by a still more peculiar sect of people, the Davidites, or Children of Peace, who de- rive their name from its founder and present leader David Will son. The village consists of 40 or 50 neat dwellings, and has a picturesque location on the declivity of a hill : but what renders it most im- posing is David^s Temple, erected last year on the summit of the hill. It is 70 feet square at the base, of a pyramidical shape, and about 80 feet in height, with a pulpit and orchestra in the interior. Con- nected with the society is a band of singing virgins, who have an annual feast, at wliich they celebrate their religion after the manner of the Mosaic, and demonstrate their joy by singing, dancing, &c. When one of the sect wishes to matrimonialize a virgin, he informs David of the fact, who appoints a " time and place" of meeting, and allows the pair two hours to determine whether " 'Tis better bear the ills they have, Or fly to others which they know not of." David keeps the store, makes their laws, is arbitra- tor, judge, advocate, and general financier. Charlotte, a small village at the mouth of the Genesee River, is the next landing-place. There is a good light-house here, and the government has recently erected piers, by which it is rendered a safe harbour. It is 110 miles from York, though only 85 miles from Niagara, along the coast. Ascending the Genesee, a beautiful meandering river, quite narrow, enclosed in high banks, with scenery not unlike that of the Hudson, — 5 miles, we arrive at Carthage or North Rochester ; at which place the boat is gene- rally delayed from three to five hours, giving the G 2 78 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. passengers time to visit the city of Rochester,* 3 miles distant (by means of a rail-road), and return to pursue their tour. The " Lower Falls" of the Genesee are at Carthage, and well worthy a visit. The wreck of the far-famed " Carthage Bridge" is here to be seen. A single arch of 300 feet chord and 250 elevation formed the bridge. Leaving here the boat proceeds 65 miles, and enters the harbour of Oswego. This is a fast-growing village, located on an elevated site at the mouth of the Oswego River, the channel through which Oneida, Cayuga, Seneca, and several smaller lakes discharge their surplus waters into Lake Ontario. The village has many natural advantages as a manufacturing and commercial town, besides those given by the com- pletion of the Oswego and Welland canals, and will always be one of the most important places on the northern frontier. The village lies on both sides of the river, and is connected by a bridge 700 feet long. It comprises several fine churches, mills, ware- houses, and a bank, and lies 75 miles north-west of Utica, for which place stages and canal-packets leave daily. Its present population is about 4000. There is a fine harbour here, formed by a pier across the mouth of the river, which has been erected by the United States' government, at an expense of about $100,000, though in consequence of some counteraction of the current it is now much ob- structed. Vessels drawing ten feet water ground in the channel. Oswego is favoured with extensive water privi- leges, formed by falls in the river a short distance from the village. A very extensive canal is being * For description of Rochester, seepage 61. WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 79 completed on the west bank of the river, for the pur- pose of supplying power to mills and manufactories, which will doubtless add to the already prosperous condition of the place, as well as give a rich return to the spirited and enterprising individual who caused its construction. The ruins of Foi't Osivego, erected in 1727, and Fort Ontario, in 1755, both of which figure con- spicuously in the annals of the French and Revolu- tionary wars, are here to be seen. They were taken by the French in 1756, but soon after retaken. The British took Oswego in 1814, but evacuated it im- mediately. Sackett's Harbour, 40 miles farther, is the next place at which the boat stops. This is a small viU lage, remarkable for nothing except the importance it acquired by being the head-quarters of the army and navy on the lake during the late war. The principal objects worthy of notice are, the U. S. barracks, and the large ship still on the stocks and enclosed, it not having been finished when peace was declared. Black River empties into the harbour (which is the best on the lake) a little north of the village. A stage leaves here, daily, for Utica, 98 miles distant. Passing Stony, Gallop, Pigeon, and the Ro7/al Duck Islands on the left, Bull-Rock and Bear Points, Gren- adier, and Simcoe Islands on the right, the boat arrives at the town of Kingston, U. C, which lies 38 miles directly across the lake from Sackett's Harbour, and at the head of the British channel of the St. Lawrence River. This is a flourishing town in the Midland District of Upper Canada, about 200 miles south- west of Montreal. Its principal buildings are, the so WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. Court-House, Episcopal Church, the Barracks of His Majesty, and two Banks, the " Commercial," and a Branch of the " Bank of Upper Canada." The Garrison is on the peninsula across the bay, and presents a very grand and formidable appear- ance when approached from the lake or river. It is so located as to afford almost perfect security to the town, in case of invasion. The officers are gentle- men, and afford every facility to strangers visiting the establishment. Several vessels are seen on the stocks, where they have stood ever since the late war. The Rideau Canal, communicating wdth 5y-T