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 UNrrED STATES^OF AMERieA. 
 
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 h 
 
WINTER 
 
 IN 
 
 FLORIDA; 
 
 OR, 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE, AND PRODUCTS OF OUR 
 SEMI-TROPICAL STATE ; WITH SKETCHES OF THE PRIN- 
 CIPAL TOWNS AND CITIES IN EASTERN FLORIDA. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED 
 
 A BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY; 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 HINTS TO THE TOURIST, INVALID, AND SPORTSMAN. 
 
 By LEDYARD BILL. 
 
 Corresponding Member of the Wisconsin state Historical Society. Also 
 
 of the New-England Historical and Genealogical Society, 
 
 etc., etc., etc. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY WOOD & HOLBROOK, 
 
 13 & 15 Laiqht Street. 
 
 1870. 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S69, by 
 
 LEDYARD BILL, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
 Southern District of New York. 
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 
 
 LEDYAKD BILL, 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 FssU 
 
JhIS yOLUME 
 IS CORDIALLY iNSCRIBED 
 
 0, I.. II, 
 
 BY THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The tour of which this volume is the 
 record was an unforeseen one, the sudden 
 illness of a friend having been the occasion 
 of our visit to Florida. 
 
 Diligent inquiry brought to light no 
 work on the State, whereby we might be 
 guided. Beyond several historical summa- 
 ries, given the public a quarter of a century 
 since, there was absolutely nothing worthy 
 of mention ; and even these were valueless 
 except to the historical student, anxious 
 only to know its colonial history and 
 status up to the period of its acquisition 
 
6 PEEFACE. 
 
 by the IJnited States. To in some measure 
 supply this deficiency has been the object 
 of our labors. 
 
 Florida is the oldest settled portion of 
 the Union, notwithstanding which it is the 
 most of a wilderness. Especially is this true 
 of the eastern half, which was the portion 
 visited by us, and to which we have in the 
 main confined ourselves. 
 
 The history of the State is renowned, 
 from its first settlement to its annexation, 
 for its many battles and conquests, in w^hich 
 the victors of to-day were among the van- 
 quished on the morrow ; and thus its mas- 
 ters alternated for centuries, leaving little 
 else behind them than vestiges of their 
 occupation. But, since our Government has 
 held possession, much has been accomplished 
 in material prosperity and in increase of 
 population : still, three-fourths of the land 
 
PEEFACE. 7 
 
 is apparently as wild and unoccupied as 
 ever. 
 
 Within, however, the past few years, 
 Florida has attracted considerable attention 
 as a winter resort for invalids and pleasure- 
 seekers. It is, practically, the only strip 
 of tropical land within our boundaries, and 
 the only State where the invalid can find 
 an equable and mild temperature through 
 the greater portion of the year. Visitors 
 to the State are already numbered by 
 thousands, and each year since the war 
 has witnessed a rapid increase. 
 
 The St. John's, whose source is in the 
 everglades of central and southern Florida, 
 running due north for two hundred miles, 
 then abruptly turning eastward to the ocean, 
 is in many respects the most remarkable 
 river in North America. To the sportsman 
 it presents opportunities such as no other 
 
8 PEEFACB. 
 
 ofierS; while the pleasure-seeker is amply 
 repaid in viewing its unusual beauties. 
 
 The capabilities of the State in an agri- 
 cultural point of view are unbounded. 
 The growth of coffee^ cotton, and cane, as 
 also indigo, and not unlikely tea, together 
 with the production of wine, is likely to 
 form an important chapter in her future 
 history 5 but the thing above all others in 
 w^hicli Florida is certainly destined to excel 
 her sister States is in early fruit-growing and 
 marketing. The climate is favorable for 
 most of the tropical fruits, as also for those 
 grown in more northern latitudes. The soil, 
 too, is admirably adapted to their rapid and 
 early maturity. Already a large share of 
 attention is given this department of agri- 
 culture, both from the native and immigrant 
 population ; and we hear, that, in the matter 
 of oranges alone, over half a million trees 
 
PREFACE. 9 
 
 have been set out along the St. John's 
 and its tributaries within the last twelve 
 months. 
 
 There are many advantages to any 
 people who have more than a single inter- 
 est in which to enlist their energies. Hither- 
 to the South has had but one great crop, 
 and that was cotton. It was profitable to 
 the large planter ; and its tendencies were 
 a concentration of wealth and the elevation 
 of the few : whereas a diversified industry 
 among a people not only makes them more 
 independent, but greater enlightenment 
 follows. There is no country on the globe 
 where this is so remarkably exemplified as 
 in "sterile" New England. The whole 
 Southern country to-day needs, more than 
 all things else, a broader culture both in the 
 field and in the school. This accomplished, 
 tofyether with an entire revolution of her 
 
10 PEEFACE. 
 
 old-time intolerance and exclusiveness, and 
 her road to independence and importance 
 will be found both broad and easy. 
 
 June 30, 1869. 
 
 '^ 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER. 
 
 WHAT TO EXPECT, AND HOW TO GO. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 The Mania for Travel. — Contrast in the Modes of Living. — 
 The South behind the Age. — Absence of Home Comforts. 
 — Florida a Wilderness. — Luxm-ies from the North. — How 
 to go to Florida. — The Best Routes. — Benefits of a Sea- 
 Voyage 17 
 
 CHAPTER n. 
 
 DISCOVERY OF FLOKIDA. 
 
 Sebastian Cabot first discovers Florida in 1497. — Columbus dis- 
 covers South America in 1498. — De Leon's Expedition hi 
 search of the Fountain of Youth. — He gives Florida its 
 Name. — Hostility of the Indians. — De Leon mortally 
 wounded. — The Expeditions of Narvaez and De Soto. — 
 Their Battles, Sufferings, and Marches. — The Discovery of 
 the Mississippi. — Death of De Soto. — Early Boundaries of 
 
 Florida 2G 
 
 11 
 
12 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 EARLY HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 
 
 The First Protestant Colony in America. — Enmity of the Span- 
 iards. — Their Cmelty and Barbarism. — The Founding of 
 St. Augnstine by Menendez in 1565. — The Death of Ri- 
 bault avenged by De Gourgues. — Capture of St. Augustme. 
 — Drake's Expedition. — Interior Settlements of the Span- 
 iards. — Trial of an Indian Chief for Treason. — Gov. Moore's 
 and Oglethorpe's Attack on St. Augustine. — Florida ceded 
 in 1763 to Great Britain, and re-ceded in 1783 to Spain. — 
 Border Troubles. — Annexation of Florida to the States by 
 Treaty m 1821 38 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS. 
 
 Bravery of the Indians. — Their Peculiar Modes of Warfare. — 
 Duplicity taught them by Europeans. — Injustice then and 
 now. — Gen. Jackson's Views of Duty. — Personal Appear- 
 ance of Coa-cou-chee. — His Capture, Confinement, and 
 Dream. — His Removal West with the Remnants of his 
 Tribe. — An Affecting Scene. — The Present Boundaries of 
 Florida. — Its Geological Formation and Probable Age. — 
 The Antiquity of the Race. — East and West Florida. . 56 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 UP THE ST. JOHN'S TO JACKSONVILLE. 
 
 The Harbor of Fernandina. — Entering the St. John's River. — 
 Appearance and Impressions given of the Country. — The 
 St. John's River contrasted. — Its Peculiarities. — Jackson- 
 
CONTENTS. 13 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 ville, its Railroads and Hotels. — Its Rapid Growth, and 
 Large Commerce. — Its Suburban Residences. — The St. 
 James Hotel. — The Lumber Trade. — Mail and Telegraph 
 Facilities 72 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 FROM JACKSONVILLE TO GREEN-COVE SPRINGS. 
 
 Attractions of the Lower St. John's. — Its Great Width. — The 
 Passengers, their Hopes, and Prospects. — Mandarin, the 
 Winter Residence of Mrs. Stowe. — Ancient Landmarks. — 
 Hibernia and Magnolia Point. — Green-Cove Springs. — Its 
 Attractions for Invalids. — Capt. Henderson and his North- 
 ern Friends. — Black Creek and Alligators. — An Adventure. 
 — RidetoMiddleburg 87 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CENTRAL FLORIDA. 
 
 From Green-Cove Springs to Picolata. — Appearance of Pico- 
 lata. — The Steamer " Darlington." — Capt. Brock and " Ad- 
 miral" Rose. — Palatka, its Commerce and Importance. — 
 Climate. — An Orange-Grove. — Dunn's Lake. — The Ock- 
 lawaha River. — Beauties of the Upper St. John's. — The 
 Mockhior Bhd 105 
 
 CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 THE UPPER ST. JOHN'S. 
 
 Lake Monroe,— Old Fort Mellon. — The Back Countiy. — En- 
 terprise. — What we thought of it, and what we found it. — 
 
14 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Its Fine Hotel. — Abundance of Game. — A Ilsh Story. — 
 Enterprise the Place for Sporting-Men. — Lakes Jessup and 
 Hai-ney. — Capt. Brock's Hotel and Orange-Grove. — The 
 Two Enterprises. — Indian-Eiver Country. — Tropical Fruits. 
 — Climate at Enterprise 123 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CELEBRATED SPRINGS. 
 
 The Green Spring at Old Enterprise. — Its Great Depth. — Tropi- 
 cal Scenes. — The Towering Palm. — Silver Springs on the 
 Ocklawaha. — The Blue Spring near Lake Berresford. — 
 Bartram's Account of this Spring. — The Spring at Green 
 Cove 133 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 ALLIGATOR-SHOOTING ON THE UPPER ST. JOHN'S. 
 
 The Steamer " Hattie." — Sportsmen on Lake Harney and be- 
 yond. — What they bagged. — The Grandfather of all the 
 Alligators. — Difficulty of killing them. — Their Display of 
 Gymnastics. — The Party camp for the Night. — A Thrill- 
 ing Scene.— Our "John."— A Wild Night of it. — Tlie 
 Morning Alligator Reveille. — Eeflections .... 142 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE. ^ 
 
 How to get there. — The Way we went. — The Hon. Mrs. Yelver- 
 ton. — A Successful Experiment. — "Duroc" and "Fire- 
 Fly." — The Stage-Driver. — The Ferryman's Fire. — Across 
 
CONTENTS. 15 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 the St. Sebastian River. — Midnight and St. Augustine. — 
 The Florida House. — Quaint Appearance of the City. — 
 The Coquina Rock. — Fort Marion. — The Cathedral and 
 Plaza. — The Minorcans. — Tropical Fruits. — A Hotel 
 wanted 150 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 THE CLIMATE. 
 
 Influx of Visitors. — Who are benefited. — Necessity of Recrea- 
 tion. — Cool Nights. — Thermometer ranges. — Earliest Frosts. 
 
 — Steadiness of Climate. — The Trade-Winds. — The Time 
 to visit Florida. — Statistics. — General Health of the People. 
 
 — Care to be exercised 173 
 
 CHAPTER XHI. 
 
 THE SOIL. 
 
 First Impressions. — Varieties of Soil. — Cane, Cotton, and Corn. 
 
 — Adaptability of the Soil for Early Vegetables. — The Cul- 
 ture of Rice, Coffee, and Tea, considered. — The Chinese. — 
 A Prediction. — Good News to all Housekeepers. — A Cali- 
 fornia Senator. — His Triangular Position .... 188 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 The Orange. — Its Cultivation. — The Several Varieties. — A 
 Roasted "Bitter-Sweet." — The Wild Orange a Native of 
 Florida. — The Frost of 1835. — The Orange a Prolific Bearer. 
 
 — Peculiarities of the Orange. — Scarcity of Orange-Groves. 
 —Where the largest may be seen. — The Lemon and Lime, — 
 
16 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 The Grape indigenous. — Tlie Scupperaong. — Florida as a 
 Wine-growing Country. — Peach-Culture. — Figs and Pome- 
 granates flourish 195 
 
 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 MIDDLE FLORIDA, — TALLAHASSEE AND QUINCY. 
 
 Not much Frequented. — Its Attractions. — The City of Tallahassee. — 
 Its Railway Connections. — The City of Quiucy. — Tobacco and 
 Wine-Growing. — Value and Character of Lands. — Absence of 
 good Hotels. — The wonderful Lakes. — Wakulla Spring, 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 HINTS TO IMMIGRANTS. — THE SOCIAL CONDITION. 
 
 Value of Lands. — The Florida Land Company. — The Fernan- 
 dina and Cedar Keys Railroad. — Inducements to Settlers. 
 — What Immigrants should do. — Cost of clearing Lands. — 
 Colonies along the St. John's. — Negro Labor. — The Reason 
 of Idleness. — The Poor Basket-maker. — His Ti-ials, Suffer- 
 ings, and Fears. — The Social Condition of the South. — An 
 Un-reconstructed Carolinian. — Spirit of the People. — Their 
 Necessities and Prospects 212 
 
A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 INTEODUCTOEY CHAPTER. 
 
 WHAT TO EXPECT, AND HOW TO GO. 
 
 The Mania for Travel. — Contrast in the Modes of Livmg. — The 
 South behind tlic Age. — Absence of Home Comforts. — Florida 
 a Wilderness. — Luxuries from the North. — How to go to Florida. 
 — The Best Eoutes. — Benefits of a Sea- Voyage. 
 
 The visitor to Florida is likely to be disappointed 
 in many respects. The exchange of the comforts 
 of a home for a temporary residence in any remote 
 portion of our country is always effected at a sac- 
 rifice ; and those who undertake journeys, whether 
 for pleasure or health, have to learn the lesson of 
 circumscribing their wants, and, not unlikely, 
 many of their necessities. How many of our 
 fashionable people feel it imperative to arrange 
 some excursion by rail and river in midsummer to 
 
 17 
 
18 A WINTEE IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 the over-packed liotels, where they iire bundled 
 into the fifth story, and their famihes crammed into 
 one or two confined and heated rooms, in exchanfre 
 
 ' CI 
 
 for their cool and ample apartments at home. No 
 complaint is made in these cases, since fashion 
 dictates ; but this weak and amiable dame lias as 
 yet scarce heard of Florida. If this periodical 
 liegira was for the purpose of escaping any ill, then 
 it would be tolerable ; but they fly to a thousand 
 they have little knowledge of. In this perhaps, 
 after all, compensation may be found, since the 
 monotony of life is broken ; and, by being divorced 
 from abundant and self-satisfying supplies, people 
 are better prepared to return to their enjoyment 
 with an appreciating relish. 
 
 If, in lieu of this watering-place mania, it were 
 the annual custom of the people of the North to 
 take their flight with the birds, and leave behind 
 them the cliilling winds and frosts of winter, for 
 sunnier skies, where the wild-flowers and songs of 
 birds are perennial, then the object could not be 
 doubtful, and the advantao-es so obscure. 
 
 There is in humanity an innate desire to follow 
 the retreating sun, and live beneath shadowing 
 trees, and slake the thirst from the cool waters of 
 
CONTRAST IN LIVING. 19 
 
 unfrozen streams ; but the laws of lahov and of our 
 civilization are such as to make it impossible but 
 for the few to avail themselves of these privileges. 
 
 The deprivations attending a journey into any 
 sparsely-settled State are seldom considered. 
 The prospective pleasures are alluring, while the 
 realities are unknown. In nearly all southern 
 countries, whether in the New or Old World, there 
 is a great dearth of what northern people know as 
 " home comforts." Instead of the snug and neat 
 dwelling, a plain and often rude structure is seen ; 
 but this is, after all, to the advantage of health, 
 since it gives ample ventilation, and in all warm 
 countries this is a very great desideratum. It is 
 doubtful if the inhabitants of a tropical country 
 would survive a single generation in our air-tight 
 dwellings. But the contrast to the visitor is 
 naturally great, and is not viewed except with 
 some sliiiht alarm. The universal indolence of 
 southern populations is proverbial, and is attributed 
 to the effects of the enervatins; climate in Avhich 
 they reside, as also to the ease which attends the 
 cultivation and growth of such products as are 
 necessary to their inexpensive modes of living. 
 
 The South is full a hundred years behind the 
 
20 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 North in many things ; and this is more true when 
 speaking of Florida than of the other Southern 
 States. It is a sort of a wikl pasture-ground, 
 parceled out into great estates, several thousand 
 acres each, under the old Spanish grants. Not a 
 tenth of the land is yet cleared, while the remain- 
 ing portion is but a tangle of swamp and pine- 
 forest, interspersed with lakes and rivers. Great 
 herds of cattle roam unrestrained over the State, 
 being gathered in by the owner pex'haps once a 
 year, for the purpose of marking the increase, and 
 again turned loose. During the late war, thou- 
 sands of these cattle were slaughtered, both by 
 the Union and Rebel forces, and often were the 
 only source of supplies. The loss of property 
 to the State in this way alone must have amounted 
 to several millions of dollars. 
 
 Notwithstanding the quantities of nearly wild 
 cattle, there is not, so far as our observation 
 went, a single first-class milch cow in all Eastern 
 Florida. Why the inhabitants should pay so little 
 attention to what would contribute so much to 
 their comfort, is a question not answered by them. 
 Perhaps, now that the State is being invaded by a 
 class of people who will clamor for these ordinary 
 
HOME COMFOETS WANTED. 21 
 
 comforts, — luxuries, we should say, for good milk 
 and butter is more or less a luxury in Florida, — 
 the inhabitants may wake up to their necessities. 
 Poor milk, and a great scarcity of that, is the 
 rule wherever we traveled. 
 
 There are no good pastures at present for cattle : 
 the wild grasses and shrubs on which this present 
 neat stock subsist would not do for dairy stock ; and 
 whether or not the soil and climate are favorable 
 to the growth of northern grasses, we cannot say, 
 though we see no reason why clover should not 
 grow luxuriantly. There is one way, at least, as 
 practicable there as anywhere, and that is stall- 
 feeding ; but that would be an extravagance and 
 a labor unheard of. All the butter used is brought 
 from the North, chiefly from the New- York 
 market. Beef is also imported, but generally 
 from some of the Southern cities with which steam 
 communication is had. Florida beef we met with 
 occasionally, which was very good, being both 
 sweet and tender ; though this does not tally with 
 the experience of others who have traveled the 
 State. 
 
 Venison and various kinds of wild game abound, 
 together with the finest of fish, that may be had 
 
22 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 from every river and lake. These, with what of 
 luxuries are imported from the North in the way 
 of butter, canned fruits, and ice, make up a variety 
 of fare that should satisfy every appetite, however 
 pampered it may be. It was our universal 
 experience, whether on the river steamers, or at 
 the hotel or boarding-house, that the table was 
 unexceptionable : we mean in the traveler's sense 
 and view of these things. 
 
 The cost of living in Florida, for a family, 
 would be thought much cheaper than in the more 
 northern States. This is doubtless true, so far as 
 the native population are concerned ; but the 
 families from the North who continue their 
 previous style would likely find it quite as ex- 
 pensive, since many of the articles are procured 
 from the same markets as wdien at home. By and 
 by this will be greatly changed, and to the advan- 
 tage of the people of Florida, as well as to those 
 who temporarily sojourn there ; as where now little 
 beside the wilderness is seen, must in a few years, 
 in all probability, be found the prosperous homes 
 of a new population. 
 
 It is in fact only since the war, that Eastern 
 Florida has been truly opened to the North. The 
 
HOW TO GO. 23 
 
 former system of espionage upon all Northerners, 
 and their certain ostracism by the chivalry, was 
 even more effectual in its results th^n any Chinese 
 Wall could possibly be. 
 
 A brief mention of the various routes by which 
 the invalid or tourist may reach the State seems 
 desirable. The cheai^est method is to embark in 
 some sailing-vessel leaving New York, Boston, or 
 Philadelphia, direct for Jacksonville. Those who 
 go to make the State their home would at least 
 do well to ship all their household articles, in this 
 way saving very much in transportation, and los- 
 ing but very little in time, since the passage does 
 not occupy over ten, and frequently is made in five 
 days. Once at Jacksonville, direct and rapid com- 
 munication is had with all portions of the State. 
 
 Those desiring to avoid a sea-voyage can go to 
 Jacksonville by railroad the entire distance, by 
 way of Savannah, the cars and sleeping-coaches of 
 the South being in most respects equal to those in 
 use in any portion of the country. Still another 
 route, combining both land and water, is to proceed 
 
24 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 to Charleston by rail, where tri-weekly steamers 
 run direct to the St. John's River, and up It to 
 Palatka. There are, indeed, two lines of steamers 
 from Charleston to Florida, one known as the 
 "inside" and the other as the "outside" line. 
 The former follows the bays and inland waters 
 along the coast, touching at the small towns and 
 landings along the seaboard, and is nearly sheltered 
 from the ocean. The latter line goes directly out 
 to sea from Charleston, touching at Savannah 
 and Fernandina only, but making every landing 
 on the St. John's as far as Palatka. A day in 
 Charleston, viewing the " hot-bed," and a sail down 
 the bay to old Fort Sumter, where Anderson and 
 his brave band stood so nobly, is not lost ; and a 
 night at the commodious and well-kept Charleston 
 Hotel gives rest and refreshment for the balance 
 of the journey. 
 
 But the easiest and most expeditious way is, 
 however, by some one of the various steamship lines 
 from ISTew York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. They 
 average at least one boat per day. We regard these 
 lines as in many respects the best means of access 
 to Florida, whether for the invalid or excursionist. 
 The time occupied is less, and the expense is also 
 
WHEN TO GO. 25 
 
 less ; and they run first-class ocean steamers, with 
 every accommodation required. The passage to 
 Savannah is usually made inside of three days, 
 and direct connection is made with some one of 
 the steamship lines to Florida ; or, if parties choose, 
 they can, by taking the cars at Savannah, reach 
 Jacksonville in twelve hours, making the entire 
 trip from New York in from three to four days. 
 
 The sea-voyage, dreaded by some, is of short 
 duration, and in most cases a decided benefit to all, 
 and especially the invalid. It is frequently recom- 
 mended by physicians to those whose health makes 
 it necessary to visit a warmer climate. There 
 need be no fear of taking cold, for few people ever 
 take cold from any exposure to the open sea-breeze : 
 it is, on the contrary, invigorating and healthful. 
 
 We have elsewhere stated with greater particu- 
 larity the time visitors to Florida should start. 
 October is as early as Northern people need to 
 go, and they may remain as late as May. Of 
 course we now refer to special classes, who go 
 for pleasure, and those seeking a restoration of 
 their health. Northern people may and do remain 
 the year x'ound, with perhaps as much immunity 
 from disease as when,nt home. 
 
CHAPTER 11. 
 
 DISCOVERY OF FLORIDA. 
 
 Sebastian Cabot first discovers Florida in 1497. — Columbus discov- 
 ers South America in 1498. — De Leon's Expedition in search of 
 the Fountain of Youth. — He gives Florida its Name. — Hostility 
 of the Indians. — De Leon mortally wounded. — The Expeditions 
 of Narvaez and De Soto. — Their Battles, Sufferings, and Marches. 
 — The Discovery of the ]\Iis3issippi. — Death of DeSoto. — Early 
 Boundaries of Florida. 
 
 Florida was first discovered by that bold and 
 "early navigator, Sebastian Cabot, who, with his 
 father, John Cabot, in 1497, coasted the whole of 
 the eastern shore of the peninsula ; and, so far as 
 history authenticates, theirs was the first landing 
 made by any Europeans on this continent. Every 
 child is taught, however, that to Christopher Co- 
 lumbus belongs the honor of the discovery of the 
 New World, in 1492, five years prior to the land- 
 ing of Cabot in Florida ; but his discoveries at that 
 time embraced only a pornon of the Bahama 
 Islands. He did not touch \upon the main until 
 
 26 
 
BE LEON'S EXPEDITION. 27 
 
 the year 1498, when lie landed at the mouth of 
 the Orinoco in South America ; and, even then, 
 he did not know that his feet pressed the soil of 
 a new hemisphere, but, on the other hand, believed 
 that he stood upon the eastern shores of Asia : 
 and in this faith he died, not even dreaming of the 
 real grandeur of the discovery. Both Columbus 
 and Cabot were, however, robbed to a great ex- 
 tent of their due share of honor, by a subsequent 
 navigator, who was more fortunate in giving a de- 
 scription of his voyages, which w^as published in 
 the Old World about the year 1500. 
 
 Little further was known of Florida by any of 
 the Europeans until the spring of 1512, when 
 Juan Ponce de Leon, an aged Spaniard, sailed 
 from Porto Rico in search of a fountain reputed 
 to exist among the Bahama Islands, which would 
 restore the aged to immortal youth, if they but 
 drank of its sparkling waters. Of this romantic 
 old man of the sea, all have read in history. That 
 he had a poetic frenzy, bordering on extravagance, 
 the reader will scarcely question. If he had lived 
 in the present age, he would, doubtless, have been 
 sent away, by either his heirs-at-law or his darlmg 
 children, to contemplate Nature from behind some 
 
28 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 Gothic window, carefully protected against intru- 
 sion from either burglars or Bohemians. 
 
 His career is indeed fascinatino; in its contem- 
 plation ; and to think of him setting sail from old 
 Spain, in that early age of navigation, across the 
 far-reaching and stormy waters of the Atlantic, 
 ill his rude vessel, surrounded by a few devoted, 
 and, Ave must presume, unlettered sailors, chal- 
 lenges our admiration, and we follow his subse- 
 quent career with unabating interest. 
 
 The object of his search was like the mirage in 
 the desert to the worn and weary traveller, who is 
 beguiled to pursue its ever-retreating cool foun- 
 tains and inviting groves, till at last he sinks 
 exhausted, yet believing that the object of his 
 search lies nearly within his grasp. 
 
 De Leon, after a fruitless visit to the Bahama 
 Islands, steered north-west for the coast of the 
 continent, and landed at what is now St. Augus- 
 tine, still pursuing the object of his industrious 
 search. He landed in April, 1512, on Easter 
 Sunday, which day the Spaniards call Pascua 
 Florida; and, finding the country abounding in 
 wild-flowers, he gave it the name of Florida : 
 which is, indeed, a very beautiful name for a beau- 
 
FIEST BATTLE WITH THE INDIANS. 29 
 
 tiful land. He at once arranged for an active 
 campaign of discovery for the one absorbing 
 object of his ambition. By land, lagoon, and 
 river he traveled, suffering hardships and endur- 
 ing every thing. Thus he journeyed and coasted 
 southward the whole extent of the peninsula, 
 even to the Tortugas Islands in the Gulf, whence 
 he returned to Spain, disappointed but not entirely 
 disheartened ; for, in a few years, we find him 
 commissioned by the home authorities as governor 
 of Florida, conditioned on his establishing a colony 
 in that country. This enterprise he readily under- 
 took ; and, gathering a company of emigrants, he 
 set sail and effected a landing, but was met by the 
 aborigines with frowns and suspicions, which speed- 
 ily grew into open and determined hostility, 
 resulting; in the killino; and drivino; of the colonists 
 from the shores to their ships. From that day, 
 now over three hundred and fifty years, one con- 
 tinuous battle with the red men of the forest has 
 been waged, with brief respites only intervening, 
 till they now stand at bay two thousand miles in 
 the interior of the continent, cut off, surrounded, 
 and hunted like wild beasts, they and their history 
 soon to be swept away by the great wave of civi- 
 
30 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 lizatlon wliicli has fully set in along the iron road 
 across the continent to the ocean beyond. 
 
 In this first conflict with the red men in Florida, 
 De Leon was mortally wounded, and soon after 
 died in Cuba, whither the expedition had set im- 
 mediate sail. Thus did this romantic voyager's 
 life abruptly and tragically end. There is scarcely 
 in history a character so unique as his. That he 
 was a man of influence among the rulers of Spain, 
 and was possessed of remarkable parts, can not be 
 questioned ; nor the fact of his many amiable 
 Aveaknesses, which seemed to exert a controlling 
 influence over him. 
 
 A dozen years later, and tlie Spanish Govern- 
 ment had a2:)pointed one Narvaez as ruler over 
 this wild-flowery land of De Leon's. He sailed 
 from Cuba with a force of three hundred men, 
 well armed and equipped, to take forcible posses- 
 sion, and hold the vast territory which was now 
 regarded as so valuable to the Spanish crown. 
 His expedition attempted little of colonization, but 
 gave their time chiefly to the exploration of the 
 interior country. They were beset on all sides in 
 their marches, and at last so hunted and harassed 
 by the Indians, and cut down by sickness, that 
 
THE AGE OF ADVENTUKE. 31 
 
 only four who survived v/ere able to reach a friend- 
 ly settlement, hundreds of miles away in Mexico ; 
 and this only after several years of wanderings. 
 De Leon's dreams still haunted the minds of ad- 
 venturers, changing only in that gold and precious 
 gems took the place of his fountain which was to 
 impart the gift of perpetual youth. 
 
 In this age of romantic and chivalrous adven- 
 ture, of new-found worlds and empires, it is not so 
 wonderful, perhaps, that eager knights embraced 
 almost any opinion concerning the mysterious 
 recesses of lands which now lay open to their view. 
 The discovery and conquest of Peru preceded the 
 discovery of Florida but a brief period ; and the 
 wealth which fell to its captors but added to the en- 
 thusiasm that already stirred the breasts of the 
 people of Spain. 
 
 Ferdinand de Soto, a principal actor In this 
 grand drama, who had returned to Spain loaded 
 with fame and wealth, at once resolved on an ex- 
 pedition to Florida, and sought permission to con- 
 quer and govern the territory, which was granted. 
 Rallying around him great numbers of adventurers 
 and admirers, he selected from am.ong them about 
 a thousand men suited to his purposes, and on 
 
32 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 the sixth day of April, 1538, set sail in a fleet of 
 ten vessels. Arriving at Cuba, Avliere lie was 
 joined by Porcalho, a distinguished and wealthy 
 soldier of fortune, he was obliged to repair and 
 re-form. This occupied nearly a year ; and it was 
 not until the following spring of 1539 that he 
 landed on the shores of Tampa Bay, in Florida. 
 
 It was the sincere wish of De Soto to conciliate 
 the inhabitants, and open the way to a peaceful 
 exploration of the country. In fact, the measures 
 he adopted were admirably adapted to that end ; 
 but the natives well remembered the cruelty of 
 Narvaez, and they regarded the new comers as but 
 another band of robbers. 
 
 De Soto sent out couriers to trace, if possible, 
 the fragments of the preceding expedition ; but 
 this proved fruitless, since they were invariably 
 detained, and usually put to death. Finding all 
 measures of conciliation unavailino;, he resolved 
 on conquering the country by force of arms. 
 To this, Porcalho dissented, and, unable to effect 
 an agreement, sailed away ; and immediately Do 
 Soto set out on his perilous and disastrous march. 
 Had the native population possessed an organized 
 body of men, and a seat of government, and pros- 
 
DE SOTO'S GEEAT CAMPAIGN. 33 
 
 ecuted hostilities any thing like oidinary mortals, 
 they would have been overpowered and speedily 
 reduced, and brought under the s"way of the disci- 
 plined and hardy veterans of Spain ; but De Soto 
 struggled against a multitude of fierce, petty 
 tribes, who, although offering no point at which an 
 eiSPective blow could be struck, never left him mas- 
 ter of more than the spot on which, for the mo- 
 ment, his army stood. Wherever he advanced, a 
 wild shower of poisoned arrows greeted him, or 
 else the foe fled before him, leaving but a barren 
 waste behind. 
 
 The natives at length prepared a plot for the 
 extermination of the invaders, and, professing 
 friendship, advanced suddenly upon them, taking 
 them wholly by surprise. The battle wavered 
 but for a moment ; when the soldiers, having 
 rallied with their arms, poured in a destructive 
 fire, which killed great numbers of the enemy, 
 and put to flight the remainder, except a few 
 who were surrounded. These, on seeing their 
 position, plunged into a lagoon, and there floated, 
 exposing nothing but their faces above the water. 
 In this position they were kept till the following 
 day by the determined Spaniards, when they were 
 
34 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 glad to currender. Tliey constituted, however, 
 but a fragment of tlie dusky warriors who every- 
 where haunted tlie unbroken forest. 
 
 Florida was at this time without definite 
 boundaries. At the time of De Leon's expedition, 
 or soon after, the Spanish Crown claimed authority 
 from Cape Sable up as far as Labrador ; but their 
 expeditions seldom if ever extended farther up the 
 coast than Cape Hatteras, and their pretensions to 
 territory above the Carolinas was abandoned ; but 
 up to that point they laid strenuous claims. 
 
 Remembering his great good fortune in Peru, 
 and still dazzled by the wealth and splendors of 
 that conquest, De Soto's thoughts still dwelt on 
 some sunny clime in Florida, where temples 
 and princely palaces glittered with burnished 
 silver and gold, where sparkling gems gave back 
 with added brilliancy the slanting sunlight, and 
 where the very air was soft and fragrant with 
 aromatic and priceless gums and balsams. 
 
 Weary and worn, yet undaunted, this brave 
 and gallant knight of the middle ages of chivalric 
 and adventurous Spain set his face toward the 
 wilderness, and resumed his perilous marches across 
 low lands md rivers, through forests and by foes, 
 
THE SPANIAEDS SUEPRISED. 85 
 
 back into tlie unknown and heretofore unexplored 
 regions of America. Passino; at first northward, 
 he traversed what is now G eorgia, and then, turning 
 south and westward, marched to Mauvilla (Mo- 
 bile), in wdiat is now Alabama, near which place 
 lived the chief of the Choctaw nation, a powerful 
 tribe inhabitino; that remon. 
 
 While entertainino; him and his follo\vers as 
 guests, and amidst the hilarities of the occasion, 
 the Indians commenced a fierce attack, compelling 
 the Spaniards to fall back to their camp, when, 
 mounting their horses, they advanced and drove 
 the Indians, though a cloud of arrows, it is narrated, 
 darkened the sky. On entering the village, they 
 were fired upon from all sides, till they resolved 
 to fire the town, wdaich, being constructed of reeds 
 and branches, flamed like tinder : many were 
 thus destroyed, and a total loss is reported of over 
 two thousand Indians, while but eighteen of the 
 invaders w^ere killed. This tragedy ended, and 
 De Soto learning of the existence of a great river 
 westward, he set out once more through a track- 
 less reo:ion, and this time in search of the " Father 
 of Waters." Arriving in the Mississippi Valley, 
 he sought the capital of the Chickasaws, and spent 
 
36 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 liere the winter. The treachery of the savao-es ao-ain 
 burst upon this devoted band ; agam were they 
 surprised and slauglitered, losing some lives and 
 many horses and all their baggage. They then 
 moved forward to the banks of the great river ; and 
 for the first time, in the spring of the year 1541, 
 the eyes of Europeans rested upon it. 
 
 Here they lingered to construct means of cross- 
 ing ; and then, still undaunted, the bravest soldier 
 and explorer of any age or country moved on, 
 penetrating the wild regions of the Missouri. 
 But to follow and describe all his w^anderino-s 
 v/ould require a volume. Three years had worn 
 away since he lauded at Tampa Bay with his 
 brave army, which now had dwindled to one-half 
 its original numbers. He determined to reach the 
 coast, obtain re-enforcements, and inaugurate a new 
 campaign. Descending the Washita and Red 
 Rivers to their confluence v/itli the Mississippi, he 
 here halted to prepare for the descent of that 
 river, when he was seized by fever, which in a 
 few brief days terminated his intrepid career. His 
 body was secretly and solemnly buried, at mid- 
 night, in the bosom of the great river, by a few of 
 his chosen companions, with nothing around save 
 
ORIGINAL BOUNDARIES OF FLORIDA. 37 
 
 the starlight night, the roUing flood, and the dark, 
 impenetrable wilderness. 
 
 His survivors, descending the river, soon reached 
 the coast, and returned to their native country, 
 havino; lost two-thirds of their orio-inal number. 
 
 We have followed, briefly, the career of this, 
 the third governor of Florida, and his most re- 
 markable expedition, since it not only concerned 
 the territory of Florida itself, but was important 
 in other respects. Every step which De Soto 
 advanced westward but added to its area. Thus 
 we see Florida extended from Cape Sable to Cape 
 Hatteras in the north, and westward more than a 
 thousand miles, embracing all the country to and 
 west of the Mississippi, and south of the Missouri 
 River, including all drained by the Red and inter- 
 vening rivers to the Rio Grande. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 EAKLY HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 
 
 The First Protestant Colony in America. — Enmity of the Spaniards. 
 
 — Their Cruelty and Barbarism. — The Founding of St. Augus- 
 tine by Menendez in 1565. — The Death of Ribault avenged by 
 De Gourgues. — Capture of St. Augustine. — Drake's Expedition. 
 
 — Interior Settlements of the Spaniards. — Trial of an Indian 
 Chief for Treason. — Gov. Moore's and Oglethorpe's Attack on St. 
 Augustine. — Florida ceded in 1763 to Great Britain, and re-ceded 
 in 1783 to Spain. — Border Troubles. — Annexation of Florida to 
 the States by Treaty in 1821. 
 
 We have seen how three successive Spanish 
 expeditions came and went, and yet Florida held 
 no settlement of Europeans. The failure of the 
 last, under its great leader, had dampened the 
 ardor of that nation : and at this time the Huo-ue- 
 nots of France, persecuted at home, resolved to 
 found a colony in the New World, and imme- 
 diately put their project into execution. 
 
 Under the patronage of the French Admiral 
 Coligny, a company of these people sailed in 1562, 
 under the lead of John Ribault, who, landing at 
 
 38 
 
BASE ATTACK ON RIBAULT. 39 
 
 Port Royal, took possession of that section in the 
 name of King Charles (Carolus) of France, and 
 gave the name of Carolina to the northern por- 
 tion of Florida, — a name that still continues, 
 divided between two States. In 1564, Kibault 
 sailed in charge of another expedition, and landed 
 at the mouth of the St. John's, and there estab- 
 lished a colony. The news of this expedition, 
 reaching Spain, aroused the Spanish people ; and 
 the crown at once authorized one Don Pedro 
 Menendez to proceed to Florida, being first duly 
 appointed governor. He departed with nearly a 
 thousand men, direct for the coast of Florida, and, 
 landing, established in 1565 a settlement on the 
 present site of St. Augustine.* His objective 
 was the French settlement on the St. John's 
 River. Ribault was instinctively aware of this, it 
 would seem, and made an effort to circumvent 
 the Spaniards, which proved abortive. Menendez 
 began duly to arrange for an attack on this colony 
 at or near the mouth of the St. John's ; and, taking 
 seme five hundred of his men, he commenced, 
 though not without some protests, his march across 
 the country, urging them forward in the name of 
 
 * "VVilliaras, the liiatorian, gives 1564 as the date. 
 
40 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 honor and tlieir rello;lon. Arrivino; near tlie 
 French settlement, early on the morning of the 
 fifth day, and findmg the gates of the fort open, 
 they rushed in, giving no quarter to the occupants, 
 both citizens and soldiers, slaughtering over two 
 hundred, and only saving some of the women and 
 children, and not even them till their thirst for 
 blood had been fully satiated.* A more heartless 
 butchery is nowhere to be found in the annals of 
 history ; and no ]3eople among Europeans, even at 
 this early period, save the Spaniards, could have 
 committed the awful catalogue of crimes of which 
 they were guilty. 
 
 Even in this nineteenth century their passions 
 seem as uncontrolled as ever, of which the con- 
 flict in Cuba gives ample proof. No country has 
 so lonor withstood the influence of the centuries as 
 has Spain ; but it is a consolation to contemplate 
 the wheels of progress, and to note that the days 
 of her priestcraft and old tyrannous system of 
 government are passing away, while new Spain is 
 robing herself, as we trust, in the beautiful gar- 
 ments which Liberty is weaving. 
 
 * A Spanisia writer gives uiis statement of the saving of women and 
 children, but the French never believed any were ever spared from the 
 sword. 
 
P.IBAITLT AVENGED. 41 
 
 The infamous Menendez, when the work of 
 assassination had ended, suspended from the neigh- 
 boring trees a number of the mangled bodies, with 
 the following words attached : " Not because they 
 are Frenchmen, but because they are heretics and 
 enemies of God." 
 
 When the news of this dreadful business reached 
 France, it greatly excited the Protestant inhabit- 
 ants ; but they were powerless, since their sover- 
 eign, Charles IX., did not sympathize with them. 
 Roused by grief and rage, the Huguenots eventu- 
 ally found a leader in the daring warrior, Domi- 
 nique De Gourgues, who had himself suffered 
 every indignity during a period of captivity under 
 the Spaniards. He clandestinely procured a 
 license to eno;ao;e in the slave-trade, and set sail in 
 three ships in the summer of 1567. After sailing 
 southward, he announced his determination and 
 real intention to his men, which was to attack the 
 Spanish settlement at St. Augustine, and avenge 
 the slaughter of Ribault and his companions. At 
 first, several ships' companies desisted ; but, being 
 urged, they consented, and the expedition effected 
 a landing. Before marching to the attack, he se- 
 cured the co-operation of the natives, who were 
 
42 A WINTER IX FLORIDA. 
 
 only too ready to aid in the dislodgment of the 
 hated Spaniards. The garrison of the forts rvere 
 apprized of the rapid advance of the enemy, and 
 were preparing to receive them, when the assault 
 was commenced upon an outer fort, or block- 
 house, which was speedily carried, as was also the 
 next ; but there yet remained the fort proper, 
 v/hose srarrison far outnumbered the assailants. 
 From this fort a comxpany of soldiers advanced to 
 meet the attack of the assailants, but they were 
 cut off and destroyed. A panic seized upon the 
 remainder of the garrison ; and, abandoning their 
 stronghold, they fled precipitately to the woods. 
 Numbers of them were captured. These the 
 French leader took to the fatal trees where the 
 fragmentary remains of bis own countrymen still 
 hung, and, having reviled them for their cruelty, 
 caused a portion of them to be suspended, and, in 
 place of the former, substituted the following in- 
 scription : " Not because they are Spaniards, but 
 because they are traitors, robbers, and murderers." 
 Retribution had been swift and sure. Had none 
 but the rino-leaders been executed, the world would 
 have justified the deed. 
 
 The conquerors, having accomplished the object 
 
THE OLDEST CITY. 43 
 
 of their visit, set sail for liome, and were, by tlieir 
 friends, joyfully received. De Gourgues was sub- 
 sequently obliged to retire from his country 
 (France) to escape the embarrassments under 
 which this expedition had brought him ; his king 
 neither daring to imprison nor allow him to remain. 
 
 Thus was the foundation-stone of St. Augustine 
 baptized in blood ; and its subsequent history, for 
 upwards of two and a hailf centuries, is one of pro- 
 longed slaughter and destruction. No other city 
 in America has so often and so severely suffered 
 from the ravages of fire and famine, and the gen- 
 eral vicissitudes of fortune, as this, the first ^jer- 
 manent settlement on the continent. 
 
 Menendez, perhaps unfortunately, was not 
 among those who perished ; and, after the depart- 
 ure of the conquerors, he resumed his rule, and 
 continued for twelve years to preside over the des- 
 tinies of the town and adjoining settlements or 
 trading-posts. In 1578 he returned to Spain, 
 having first nominated his successor. Spanish 
 ambition in this portion of America had been too 
 severely pruned by the sword for any rapid de- 
 velopment of power or numbers : yet we find no 
 diminution of papal fanaticism ; but, on the other 
 
44 A WINTER IIT FLORIDA. 
 
 hand, they now gave their attention to the conver- 
 sion of the aboriginal inhabitants to their super- 
 stitions and fanatical religious faith. Under the 
 patronage of the pope of Rome, the king of Spain 
 dispatched a large company of teachers, of the 
 order of Franciscans, to Florida. Thus, while en- 
 larging the boundaries of their church, they sought 
 to obtain peaceful control over the tribes surround- 
 ing them, which, up to this period, had been a 
 fruitless effort. The savage tribes of all countries 
 have ever been more or less impressed with the forms 
 and ceremonials of the Romish Church ; and in a 
 few years, by their persistent and insinuating man- 
 ners, coupled with lessons of civilized life, the 
 Spaniards acquired great influence over them, and 
 by 1585 their rule was acknowledged by all of the 
 tribes as far west as the Mississippi River. It was 
 during this period that those convents and mission- 
 ary houses were built, the ruins of which the trav- 
 eller will meet with here and there m the central 
 portions of Florida, and which excite considerable 
 interest in the antiquarian. All of these institu- 
 tions were but outgrowths of the central establish- 
 ment at St. Au2:ustine. 
 
 The succeeding year the town was again 
 
DRAKE'S DESCENT ON FLORIDA. 45 
 
 attacked, though, we should judge, quite accident- 
 ally. This time the Anglo-Saxons were the 
 aggressive party, for the first time venturing to 
 take a hand in this rather uncertain Florida 
 business. The hero was none other than that 
 restless and dauntless old sailor, Sir Francis Drake 
 of England. An expedition was fitted out by 
 some private adventurers, consisting of twenty- 
 six sail, with Drake as admiral. Their main 
 object could have been little else than plunder ; 
 and they made no small fist of it either, for they 
 captured a number of Spanish seaports in the 
 West Indies, raked their commerce generally, and 
 wound up by paying a reconnoitering visit to the 
 coast of Florida, in the hope that they might add 
 to their spoils or their glory. They descried a 
 " look-out," or tower, off St. Augustine, and at 
 once made a descent upon the neighborhood. 
 Advancing, they encountered quite a formidable 
 fort, but poorly garrisoned, as the sequel showed. 
 On this they made a rapid advance, and were 
 greeted by a few random shots, when the guard 
 fled, leaving fourteen guns, and military stores, 
 including a treasury-chest of several thousand 
 pounds. This latter trifle was straightway escorted 
 
46 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 witli military honors to the fleet ! The succeedhig 
 day, Drake marched upon the town, which the in- 
 habitants, with a very slight show of resistance, 
 evacuated, leaving it in the peaceable possession 
 of the English. History does not seem fully to 
 agree as to the burning of the place by Drake ; 
 but since he did take the place, and as his hatred 
 of the Spanish was only second to their hatred of 
 him and his people, it is altogether probable that 
 he fired the town. Indeed, the w^eight of evi- 
 dence inclines to this supposition. It is not un- 
 likely, that, since they immediately left and re-em- 
 barked, but a small portion of the city was burned. 
 Drake had no intention of holdhig the country, 
 and, having completed his " swinging round the 
 circle " of Spanish settlements, set sail for home, 
 where he arrived in July of the year last above 
 named (1586). 
 
 The city of St. Augustine was, before this 
 attack, as large in point of population as it is to- 
 day. It soon recovered from this temporary, and, 
 as we believe, slight injury by Drake ; and its 
 growth continued for nearly half a century, 
 though one writer asserts, that, about 1610, 
 the natives, from some unknown cause, made a 
 
FIRST TEIAL FOR TREASON. 47 
 
 descent upon the town, capturing it, and utterly 
 destroying it by fire. This we do not in any 
 manner credit. In 1G65, however, it was attacked 
 and plundered by a Capt. Davi;?, an English 
 buccaneer, — a class of persons who, from about 
 Drake's time and for over tw^o centuries after- 
 wards, sw^armed among all the islands of the Vv^est 
 Indies and the adjacent seas. It was likewise 
 about this period, that an English colony, of, more 
 than likely, freebooters, established a settlement 
 at St. Helena, on the St. Mary's River, within the 
 then boundaries of the State, but now in Georgia. 
 In 1680, the Spanish governor became jealous of 
 the great power of the chief of one of the largest 
 and most powerful tribes in Florida, and decided 
 to procure his arrest for treason ; and it is not im- 
 probable that he had adjudged him worthy of 
 death, even before a council had assembled to 
 formally determine the question. He was, of 
 course, pronounced guilty, notwithstanding his 
 solemn protest that he was both loyal to and zeal- 
 ous in papal faith and power. He was sentenced 
 to die ; and his last words were to his countrymen 
 not to avenge his death, thus actually proving the 
 sincerity of his asseverations. The tribe over 
 
48 A "WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 which he had held undisputed sway felt outraged, 
 as they unquestionably were, in the death of their 
 beloved leader ; and fierce and bitter war ensued, 
 resulting in the driving out of all the Spanish 
 settlers north of the St. John's River. From this 
 period, the Spanish power in this colony commenced 
 rapidly to decline, while the English settlements 
 increased, till they had full possession of the 
 Carolinas. The French had to a very great 
 extent withdrawn, and planted a colony at the 
 mouth of the Mississippi River. 
 
 In 1702, the English Gov. Moore, of South 
 Carolina, planned an attack on St. Augustine, 
 which proved disastrous only to himself. 
 
 Up to this period, most of the attacks on the 
 Spanish had been at St. Augustine, that being the 
 capital of their colony ; but in 1703, Gov. Moore, 
 having a wish to retrieve his reputation, sought 
 and obtained a large force of Indians, accompanied 
 by a few whites, and made an incursion back from 
 the sea-coast on Lewis Fort, from which, by skill- 
 ful maneuvering, he managed to draw out the 
 garrison, when a sanguinary battle ensued, result- 
 ing in the complete triumph of Moore's party. 
 The effect of this was to break the power of the 
 
EAELY LESSONS TO THE INDIANS. 49 
 
 Spanish in Middle Florida ; and they withdrew from 
 that region, and the less reluctantly, since, in this 
 conflict, theii* principal school and convents had been 
 .destroyed, together with their settlements. "What 
 had taken three-fourths of a century to build up 
 had, as it were, in a day been utterly annihilated. 
 
 A few years of peace followed, — long enough 
 to prove to the Indians, who had fought and won 
 for the English their crowning victory in Florida, 
 that "white men were very uncertain," and that 
 those who were their friends to-day might be their 
 enemies to-morrow. The truth of this they fully 
 realized, as many better people have before, but 
 more especially since these times of which we 
 write. 
 
 They felt so outraged, that they did not hesitate 
 to form an alliance with their ancient enemy, the 
 Spaniards ; and under their leadership, and in con- 
 junction with them, they were marched into what 
 is now Georgia, but at that period claimed as a 
 portion of Florida, though in actual possession of 
 the English, who had, during the last few years, 
 added greatly to their numbers and wealth, with 
 their chief settlement at Savannah. This com- 
 bined army marched, about 1717, into Georgia, 
 
60 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 only to succeed in obtaining a sound drubbing at 
 the bands of tlie Britons and tbeir Indian allies of 
 tbat section. 
 
 Tlie Spanish governor concluded, thereafter, tc 
 remain at borne, and to quietly surrender tbo rule 
 over a portion of bis territory. Tbe eifect was, 
 as tbe bumorous Artemas Ward used to say, to 
 make tbe ways of "Lo! tbe poor Indian," very 
 bard indeed. Tbe governor restricted tbeir privi- 
 leges, and drove tbem from tbeir fields, so tbat tbey 
 came to be kicked and cuffed in turn by tbe Eng- 
 lisb or Spanisb people, as fortune led tbem. Tbus 
 one of tbe most powerful tribes on tbe continent, 
 tbe Yomasees, were, at tbis time, among tbe most 
 abject. Tbe Spanisb now beld St. Augustine and 
 tbe adjacent settlements and territory on tbe 
 Atlantic ; wbile, on tbe Gulf coast, tbeir corre- 
 sponding strong point was St. Mark's. 
 
 Tbe boundaries of Florida were now substanti- 
 ally diminished, and extended on tbe nortb be- 
 tween St. Mary's and tbe Altamaba Rivers, and 
 westward by soutb to tbe Mississippi Kiver. Tbis 
 western boundary was put in jeopardy by an 
 attack on Pensacola, a place founded prior to 1690, 
 and that had been held at times by tbe French 
 
OGLETHOItPE ATTACKS ST. AUGUSTINE. 51 
 
 and then by the Spaniards, up to 1722, when it 
 was permanently rehnquished to Spain by a 
 treaty. 
 
 Difficulties were continually springing up be- 
 tween the encroaching English settlers on the 
 north and the Spanish, culminating, in the spring 
 of 1740, by Gov. Oglethorpe of Georgia plan- 
 ning an invasion of Florida, and particularly 
 the reduction and capture of the city of St. 
 Augustine. With an army of rising two thou- 
 sand men (and Indians not taxed ! ) he marched 
 on that place, seconded by an English fleet under 
 Com. Price, who arrived off the' harbor too late, 
 however, to prevent re-enforcements reaching the 
 town by the sea. An unsuccessful siege was prose- 
 cuted, chiefly from Anastasia Island, opposite the 
 city. The distance was such as to render the 
 shots ineffectual, though some of them struck and 
 buried themselves in the sides of the fort. These 
 shot-holes and abrasions may still be seen on the 
 east and north-east side of the fortification, or 
 could at the time of our visit. Oglethorpe was 
 obliged to retreat, and fell in disgrace among his 
 people : but later, in a counter-attack on his own 
 colony by the enemy, he was, by some strategy, 
 
52 A WINTER IN FLOBIDA. 
 
 enabled to regain their regard ; and, in 1743, lie 
 put on foot another expedition, which was marched 
 by land to St. Augustine. This proved more 
 disastrous, if possible, than the first. The Span- 
 iards followed them on their retreat harassino; 
 and killing many, aided, of course, by the savages, 
 who hung on their flanks, following and destroying 
 some of the Eno-lish settlements in Georo;ia. 
 Finally, in 1748, a treaty was concluded between 
 Spain and England, which had the effect to pro- 
 duce a period of comparative quiet. 
 
 In 1763, Spain ceded Florida to Great Britain ; 
 whereupon a large portion of the Spanish settlers 
 withdrew, and in their places came army-officers 
 and pensioners, together with emigrants from 
 Britain. The country soon became quiet, and 
 agriculture again floui'ished ; but in 1783, after 
 twenty years of occupancy by the British, the 
 territory was re-ceded to Spain, and a correspond- 
 ing hegira of the English occurred, as in the case 
 of the previous cession. It only needed this to 
 complete the desolation. Of course, the incoming 
 Spaniards did nothing, not knowing what moment 
 word would come of another transfer. Beyond a 
 single disturbing element of small proportions, 
 
BOEDER TROUBLES. 63 
 
 ^ere was little to hinder the advancement of the 
 peaceful arts ; but the country retrograded rapidly. 
 
 A more lamentable condition no state or terri- 
 tory could well find itself in. The industry of a 
 century had been allowed to go to decay ; and 
 rapine and war had driven nearly every vestige 
 of civilization from existence. 
 
 The United States, meanwhile, had grown — 
 indeed were at this time — a powerful people, and 
 looked upon this wilderness of Florida (for such 
 it had now become) with eyes of longing, which 
 vras not wholly unnatural. 
 
 Troubles and disputes began to thrive along 
 the northern borders, when President Monroe 
 dispatched a small force in 1811 to act as a corps 
 of observation ; but its commander, more zealous 
 than prudent, soon found a pretext for occupying 
 the Avhole of Amelia Island, on which the town of 
 Fernandina is situated. His course was disap- 
 proved by the Government, and our forces were or- 
 dered to be withdrawn. While preparations for this 
 object were going forward, the Spanish governor 
 caused an attack to be made on the retiring forces, 
 resulting in the killing of some of the troops. In- 
 stead of hastening, this act but detained our forces. 
 
54 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 Again the commanding officer was superseded by 
 Gen. Pinckney. Meanwhile, the administration 
 sent two more commissioners to negotiate for a 
 transfer of the territory to the United States ; but 
 this effort proved abortive. Internal strife and 
 commotion flourished ; but, in the spring of 1813, 
 our troops evacuated the territory. The succeed- 
 ing year witnessed an attempt on the part of the 
 British to occupy West Florida. The " Yanks " 
 needed but just such an attempt to give them 
 license to " move in ; " which they speedily did, 
 under the direction of Gen. Jackson, five thousand 
 strong, and made an early call on the redcoats 
 who already occupied Pensacola. A trifling " un- 
 pleasantness " ensued : the English left on their 
 fleet which brought them ; and Jackson proceeded 
 soon after to arrange for the more important duties 
 to come off at Ncav Orleans on the succeeding, 
 and now memorable, 8th of January. 
 
 We pass the period which was well filled with 
 Indian conflicts and border warfare, to 1818, when 
 Jackson, in punishing the savages, was affronted 
 by the Spanish commander at Pensacola, in whose 
 vicinage he was. Whereupon he repeated the cap- 
 ture of the place, and sent the Spanish prisoners 
 
EXCHANGE OF FLAGS. 
 
 55 
 
 and governor to Havana. This brought the 
 question of a transfer of the territory plainly 
 
 before the authorities of Spain. It was evident 
 that " manifest destiny " would annex this territo- 
 ry to the Union, either with or without their con- 
 sent. They at once entered into a treaty in 1819, 
 which was ratified by an exchange of flags on 
 the 17th of June, 1821. 
 
CHAPTEE ly. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS. 
 
 Bravery of the Indians. — Their Peculiar Modes of Warfare. — Du- 
 plicity taught them by Europeans. — Injustice then and now. — 
 Gen. Jackson's Views of Duty. — Personal Appearance of Coa-cou- 
 chee. — His Capture, Confinement, and Dream. — His Kemoval 
 West with the Eemnants of his Tribe. — An Affecting Scene. — 
 The Present Boundaries of Florida. — Its Geological Formation 
 and Probable Age. — The Antiquity of the Race. — East and 
 West Florida. 
 
 The transfer of authority over this peninsula 
 was a notable event in its history. No human 
 agency could well have averted such a result. 
 Out of this fierce caldron of hates and retribution, 
 order was to come, but not yet. Years of strug- 
 gles and many precious lives were the real price 
 we had to pay. No race of beings under the sun 
 ever fought with such persistence and desperation 
 as did these red men, the Seminoles, in the swamps 
 of Florida. Their chief, Coa-cou-chee, was a brave 
 and cunnino; savao;e, and his fio;htin<2:-men excelled 
 in every element of strength and agility. A 
 
 56 
 
A BRAVE PEOPLE. 57 
 
 pitched battle was out of the question. They were 
 outnumbered, and fought, economizing hfe, behind 
 the trees, or concealed from view in some jungle or 
 thicket. A hissing arrow, and all else was silent. 
 When least expected, they screamed their wild 
 war-cry, sti'uck, and vanished in the impenetra- 
 ble forest. Nothing impeded their marches : 
 they were expert as swimmers, and as tireless as 
 the rivers whose dark, calm waters often swallowed 
 and shielded them from their pursuers. Living 
 on the fruits and fish which a provident nature 
 abundantly supplied, they were enabled to pass 
 rapidly over great distances, and seemed, indeed, 
 almost ubiquitous. They were the terror of our 
 troops : and considering themselves the rightful 
 occupants and owners of the soil, and believing 
 that this struggle was to be their last great effort, 
 their courao;e and darino; rose with the occasion. 
 The history of this band of braves, so replete 
 with thrilling interest and real romance, would 
 afford ample material for a Walter Scott, from 
 which to weave as many tales of this " place of 
 flowers " as of his own bright and bonny land. 
 
 It is a sad history, that of the Florida abori- 
 gines. The rising sun brought with it no people 
 
58 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 from the east who were to prove their friends. 
 Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Britons were all alike 
 in selfishness and duplicity. Their lessons had 
 been severe and were well remembered : hence, 
 by the time the utilitarian population of the States 
 had acquired power and permanency, they, too, 
 were adepts in deceit and diplomacy. 
 
 History will account them a barbarous band ; 
 but, while this is doubtless true, it should not lose 
 sio-ht of the influences which wrought out this 
 result in their characters. Would any people, 
 however enlightened, even in this age, escape the 
 doing of many acts of savage wantonness, if they, 
 as were these red men, were hunted from their 
 country, and their cities and public works leveled 
 to the ground, by some invading race of Titans, 
 who sought to change their lands back to their 
 primeval character and beauty, and who, by dupli- 
 city and right of might, defrauded them of even 
 their right to live ! That the Indians believed 
 themselves the children of the Great Spirit, whom 
 they sought to worship in their rude way, is true ; 
 and that they knew the white man to be an in- 
 truder is also true. 
 
 It may not be among the possibilities for the 
 
INHUMANITY. 59 
 
 two races to live together ; and, if we concede 
 that it was in God's providence to estabhsh the 
 white race on this continent, then we may, in 
 some degree, be reconciled to the march of events 
 here : but that can not palliate nor excuse the in- 
 humanity and fraud continually practiced upon 
 these rude children of the forest, from the earli- 
 est intrusive visits of the whites to the present 
 time. 
 
 We have no right to judge of the former tribes 
 by the present degenerate fragments we see and 
 know upon our remote borders westward. They 
 are only the residum of a mighty race of men, 
 who for three hundred years have been plundered 
 and robbed of every possession, and schooled in 
 every vice, by the worst of our own people. It 
 was no crime to practice upon them ; and, by syste- 
 matic approaches, they have been entrapped into 
 every imaginable difficulty, for the sole purpose of 
 plundering them or the government who presumed 
 to shield them. 
 
 The problem of the two races living peaceably 
 near each other may never reach a desired solu- 
 tion ; and, with the present roving bands, it may 
 indeed be impossible, in view of their long degra- 
 
60 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 dation. Few venture now, since tlie effort of a 
 Schoolcraft has been unavailmg, to even stand up 
 long in their defense. The shafts of sarcasm and 
 ill-concealed contempt, which is leveled at these 
 efforts, doubtless deters many whose hearts are 
 inclined to be moved in their behalf, so far at least 
 as to demand justice and fair treatment. 
 
 Gen. Jackson was too much of a fie;htino:-man 
 to allow any high moral duties to enter into the 
 calculation of any of the rights of the Florida In- 
 dians ; and the battles partook of the vengeful 
 spirit of the chiefs. 
 
 Osceola and Little Cloud were among the more 
 distmo;uished of the Indian chiefs ; but of Coa-cou 
 chee, though less is known, that little is full of 
 x\nusual interest. He was perhaps the royai 
 prince. He was a son of the famous King 
 Philip, and hence was an hereditary chief, which 
 was not the case with Osceola, who was an 
 accidental or elected chief, and only a half-blood 
 Indian. Our royal scion might liave served for a 
 model, — tall, straight, and slender, with the eye 
 of an e^.gle, and as shrewd, agile, and untiring 
 as histoiy has painted him : yet he was captured, 
 but subsequently escaped by leaping do^vn from 
 
DEEAM OF COA-COTJ-CHEE. 61 
 
 the tower of San Marco Castle at St. Augustine, 
 where he had been kept imprisoned. He was 
 again captured, and this time so heavily ironed and 
 so long imprisoned, that his proud spirit was bent 
 if not broken ; and, to procure his release, he was 
 compelled to sign articles of removal to a home west 
 of the Mississippi River, and also to induce his tribe, 
 now but a remnant, to go with him. This they 
 consented to do for their chief's sake. Coa-cou- 
 chee, believing in the protection of the Great 
 Spirit, was measurably reconciled to the loss 
 of his beautiful home and glorious hunting- 
 grounds, and to an exile in what was to him an 
 unknown and distant land. The historian Sprague 
 tells the story of a dream as related to him by this 
 Prince of the flowery land, which occurred while 
 confined in the dungeons of the fortress at St. 
 Augustine. 
 
 " The day and manner of my death," he says, 
 '' are given out, so that, whatever I may encounter, 
 I fear nothing. The spirits of the Seminoles 
 protect me ; and the spirit of my twin-sister, who 
 died many years ago, watches over me. When I 
 am laid in the earth, I shall go to live with her. 
 She died suddenly. I was out hunting ; and, when 
 
62 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 seated by my camp-fire alone, I heard a strange 
 noise, — a voice that told me to go to her. The 
 camp was some distance off; but I took my wife 
 and started. The night was dark and gloomy ; 
 the wolves howled about me. As I went from 
 hummock to hummock, sounds came often to my 
 ear : I thought she was speaking to me. At day- 
 light I reached the camp, and she was dead ! I 
 sat down alone, and under the long gray moss of 
 the trees, when I heard strange sounds again. I 
 felt myself moving, and went alone into a new 
 country, where all was bright and beautiful. I 
 saw clear-water ponds, rivers, and prairies upon 
 which the sun never set. All was green : the 
 grass grew high, and the deer stood in the midst 
 looking at me. I then saw a small white cloud 
 approaching ; and, when just before me, out of it 
 came my twin-sister, dressed in white, and covered 
 with bright silver ornaments : her long black hair, 
 which I had often braided, fell down upon her 
 back. She clasped me around the neck and said, 
 ' Coa-cou-chee ! Coa-cou-chee ! ' I shook with 
 fear. I knew her voice, but could not speak. 
 With one hand, she gave me a string of wliite 
 beads ; in the other, she held a cup sparkling with 
 
SPANISH DUNGEONS. 63 
 
 pure water. As I drank, she sang the peace-song 
 of the Seminoles, and danced around me. She 
 had silver bells on her feet, which made a loud, 
 sweet noise. Taking from her bosom something, 
 she laid it before me, when a bright blaze stream- 
 ed above us. She took me by the hand, and said, 
 ' All is peace ! ' I wanted to ask for others ; but 
 she shook her head, stepped into the cloud, and 
 was gone. All was silent. I felt mvself sinking, 
 until I reached the earth, when I met my brother 
 Cliilka. He had been seeking me, and was alarm- 
 ed at my absence." 
 
 Coa-cou-chee was undoubtedly greatly influ- 
 enced to sign the articles of removal in view of this 
 dream. There are, perhaps, no people so studious 
 as the untutored savage to follow what they believe 
 to be the dictates of the Great Spirit, whom they 
 hold in such supreme reverence and awe. 
 
 When he was asked what had become of the 
 " white beads," he declared he had lost them in 
 the darkness of his dungeon at St. Augustine. 
 We can the more readily credit this, having our- 
 selves been permitted to enter them for inspection ; 
 and surely darker and more dismal caverns of 
 prisons can not possibly be even imagined. To say 
 
64 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 that they were constructed under the supervision 
 of the Spaniards is sufficient assurance of their 
 completeness for every pui'pose for v^hich they 
 were made. 
 
 Standing once more free, on the deck of the 
 ship in Tampa Bay which was to transport him 
 and his people beyond the Mississippi, folding 
 his arms upon his breast, he gazed intently upon 
 his native land, wrapt in silent contemplation of 
 the past and its eventful history ; and, running in 
 thought up the long line of his royal ancestry and 
 back to his own and his nation's humiliation, 
 his proud heart for the first time melted, and 
 blinding tears veiled his sight. Turning silently 
 away from view of the land which held all that 
 was dear to him, he breathed a brief prayer to the 
 Great Spirit ; then, gathering up his mantle, sank 
 down upon the deck, never again to gladden his 
 eyes with the scenes of his youth he loved so well. 
 
 The Union had acquired, by the cession of this 
 territory, 59,268 square miles, embracing about 
 thirty-eight millions of acres, or an area nearly 
 equal in extent to all of New England. A very 
 
GEOLOGICAL FOEMATIOK 65 
 
 large proportion of this is an extensive marsh, 
 which during the rainy season, between June 
 and October, efiPectually prevents an overland 
 transit from one shore to the other in the southern 
 portion. The northern and eastern section of the 
 peninsula is of a level character ; the middle and 
 western portion will be found in places quite 
 uneven and considerably elevated, yet no moun- 
 tains will be found. 
 
 The geological formation of Florida is of com- 
 paratively recent origin, and is indeed among 
 the latest-formed land on the continent, excepting 
 only the delta of the Mississippi River. Its 
 present condition would, even to the ordinary 
 scientist, give many proofs of this ; but we are 
 not without the opinions of learned savans on 
 this question, who hold that the whole peninsula 
 has been formed by the successive growths of coral 
 reefs, added concentrically, from north to south, to 
 the first deposits, while the accumulation between 
 these reefs has been a mixture of coral and frag- 
 ments of shells : the coral prevailing in some parts, 
 as in the remons of the everglades ; and in other 
 
 i3 
 
 5 
 
66 A WINTER IN TLOEIDA. 
 
 portions, especially tlie northern and eastern, the 
 shell. In various places, imbedded in these shells, 
 fossil remains of animals now inhabiting the coun- 
 try may be found. Upon this marine limestone 
 formation and its inequalities, fresh-water lakes 
 exist. On the shores of one of these, — ^ Lake 
 Monroe, — near the head waters of the St. John's, 
 and through which that river passes, we exhumed 
 the remains of human beings. They were in a 
 most remarkable state of preservation, and indi- 
 cated a race of men equal in stature to that of the 
 strongest of Anglo-Saxons. It is not known how 
 long a period these remains have been buried ; but 
 a learned writer has said that Upper Florida, as far 
 south as the head waters of the St. John's, consti- 
 tuted a prominent peninsula before Lake Okee-cho- 
 lee was formed, and that the whole of the south- 
 ern extremity of the State, with the everglades, 
 has been added to that part of the continent 
 since the basin has been in existence in which the 
 strata with human bones have been accumulating. 
 Agassiz, in referring to the formation of the lower 
 and later half of the peninsula, that part which 
 lies south of the fresh-water system, — being m 
 extent some three degrees of latitude, — assumes, 
 
GEOWTH OF THE CONTINENT. 67 
 
 that if the rate of growth be one foot in a century 
 from a depth of seventy-five feet, and that each 
 successive reef has added ten miles of extent 
 southward, it would have required, on this compu- 
 tation, one hundred and thirty-five thousand years 
 to have formed the southern half of the peninsula 
 above referred to. The peculiar growth of some 
 of the islands of the Carribean Sea is quite like 
 that of the lower half of the peninsula of Florida. 
 They are formed on the tops of some mountain 
 under the sea ; and, through the agency of animals 
 which inhabit the water, these coral growths are 
 established on them, and are gradually elevated to 
 the surface. 
 
 It is altogether probable, that, previous to the 
 last four centuries, there was nothing known of 
 this continent by the Europeans. After its discov- 
 ery, the appellation of the New World was given 
 to contradistinguish it from the eastern hemisphere. 
 It was to them indeed a new empire ; and its 
 marvelous attractions in climate, fruits, and flow- 
 ers led them to great exertions in the way of dis- 
 covery and exploration. They little dreamed 
 that this vast continent was peopled throughout its 
 entire extent, and that its birth antedated that of 
 
68 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 their own " Old World ; " yet later investigations 
 prove this to be true, and also startle us of the 
 present century, when we are informed that an 
 exuberant flora existed in Louisiana more than 
 one hundred and fifty thousand years ago, and that 
 in all probability the human race existed in the 
 delta of the Mississippi over fifty thousand years 
 ago. The reasons by which these conclusions are 
 reached are generally well known and accepted 
 by the more eminent geologists. 
 
 In the course of excavating for some public 
 works, it is stated, at New Orleans, the laborers 
 came to and cut through four successive growths 
 of cypress timber, the lowest so old as to cut like 
 cheese ; and one tree was found full ten feet in 
 diameter. The growth of these trees is very slow, 
 requiring about one hundred rings to give an 
 inch in diameter from the center. This would 
 make the aere of the larsjest about six thousand 
 years. It is not known how many generations of 
 these trees have perished on each of the several 
 levels ; but it is assumed that at least two have. 
 This would give to each strata of cypress growth 
 twelve thousand years ; and the four growths mul- 
 tiplied by thisj to which must likewise be added 
 
THE ANTIQUITY OF MAN". 69 
 
 the era of plants prior to the cypress, estimated at 
 fifteen hundred years, also the present live-oak 
 platform, or era, thought to be about the same in 
 time, would make a grand total of fifty- one thou- 
 sand years. And it was under this fourth growth 
 of cypress, that a skeleton of a human being was 
 found, belongino; to the aboriginal American 
 family ! This was found within about fifty feet of 
 the surface, while the total depth of the delta 
 itself is between five and six hundred feet, and is 
 believed to have required fully one hundred and 
 fifty thousand years for its accumulation.* This 
 is probably somewhere near the age of the lower 
 half of the peninsula of Florida. How much 
 older the upper portion may be is unknown ; but 
 that even dwindles into comparative insignificance 
 when we contemplate the age of the elevated por- 
 tions of the continent. This much as to the for- 
 mation and age of the peninsula ; and we pass to 
 the consideration of its admission into the Union. 
 
 The territory, embracing the two provinces of 
 East and West Florida, was consohdated, and 
 
 * See Types of Mankind. 
 
70 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 Gen. Jackson was its first territorial governor. 
 In 1845, Florida was admitted into the Union ; and 
 for a time there was comparative quiet, and new 
 settlements were established. But poor, harassed 
 Florida was not long to enjoy either peace or pros- 
 perity. The secession movement in 1860 raged 
 in all portions of the South ; and this State, with 
 others, was by fraud and violence carried out of 
 the Union. It soon became again, for almost the 
 hundredth time, a theater for war. The general 
 government at once occupied all of its chief sea- 
 ports, and places along its rivers, with troops ; 
 and incursions into the interior were the standing 
 order. No great battle was fought within its 
 borders, though numerous and sanguinary con- 
 flicts were caused by the various raiding-parties in 
 all the more northern portions of the State. 
 Finally the war ended, and peace again has 
 spread her wings over this oft devastated and many 
 times ruined people. And now let us hope that 
 this is the inauguration of a prolonged and flour- 
 ishing period which time has in store for her. 
 
 Thus far we have considered Florida as a unit : 
 while giving its general history, we could scarce 
 have pursued any other course, and make ourselves 
 
THE TWO PROVINCES. 71 
 
 at all intelligible to the reader. It was perhaps 
 desirable to cover the whole ground in that par- 
 ticular, as a clearer idea would be formed of the 
 eastern half, as related to the State and its event- 
 ful history. The territory was, however, early 
 divided into two provinces, known as East and 
 West Florida ; and in each there was for many 
 years a local head. As it suits our present plan to 
 continue the division, we shall hereafter speak 
 mainly of the eastern half, since our travels and 
 observations have been confined to that region, 
 except, perhaps, in a casual way, when we ( ome 
 to treat of the climate and the products of the 
 State in future chapters. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 UP THE ST. John's to Jacksonville. 
 
 The Harbor of Fernandiua. — Entering the St. John's River. — Ap- 
 pearance and Impressions given of the Countrj^. — The St. John's 
 River contrasted. — Its Peculiarities. — Jacksonville, its Rail- 
 roads and Hotels. — Its Rapid Grovs^th, and Large Commerce. — 
 Its Suburban Residences. — The St. James Hotel. — The Lum- 
 ber Trade. — Mail and Telegraph Facilities. 
 
 It was five o'clock in the morning, when the 
 steamer " City Point " ronnded the northern 
 end of Ameha Island, and steamed up to the 
 wharf at Fernandina. We roused ourselves 
 from a broken, weary slumber, and, drawing aside 
 the blinds to our state-room window, cast our 
 eyes for the first time upon this antiquated town, 
 situate near the mouth of St. Mary's River, and 
 at the extreme north-eastern corner of the State. 
 It was low tide ; and the wharf had a kind of 
 black-spider look, which did not charm, neither 
 did it deter us from dressing, and proceeding on 
 shore. The wharf is a projecting one, with a 
 
 72 
 
FERNANDINA. 73 
 
 commodious warehouse at the landing. The 
 morning was darkened by a sea-fog, which now 
 commenced to drift in, partially obscuring obser- 
 vation. A brief excursion satisfied us tliat this 
 was an uninviting place to stay in. Its look of 
 decay and hard times seemed as legible as if 
 written on every plank in town. Beyond the 
 sight of the railroad, which runs from here to 
 Cedar Keys, there was nothing of special interest. 
 Hurrying back to the steamer, which till now 
 had seemed never so friendly, we were glad to 
 receive its protection, and quite rejoiced when the 
 wheels splashed the water, bearing us away. 
 The truth was, we were disappointed ; and this 
 made us feel homesick, and created a wish that 
 the steamer would head northward, and away 
 from the desolate shores of Amelia Island.'^ 
 
 A few hours of steamino* brouojlit us near to 
 the bar in front of the mouth of the River St. 
 John's, — called in the times of Bar tram, St. Juan. 
 The fog was dense, and the locality dangerous for 
 an advance : thirty minutes of this bewilderment, 
 and the penalty paid is detention till the succeed- 
 ing tide. A few moments, however, and a whif 
 of air drives the fog, and lifts it skywards. The 
 
 * A second visit to Fernandina, a year subsequent to writing the 
 above, we found a new hotel and a now and beautiful shell road to the 
 beach, where a magnificent view and drive may be had. There is now 
 
74 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 pilot is proved skillful, for we lay but a few yards 
 from the mouth of the river. Crowdino; on all 
 steam, we barely pass over the bar ; and then, 
 fair eailincr. And this is the famous river of 
 which we have so much heard, and whose praises 
 are being sounded far and wide by every tourist 
 who visits it. 
 
 Having passed the treacherous quicksands and 
 fairly entered the river, our steamer makes her 
 first landings. Mayport and Pilot Town, oppo- 
 site, are the names of these inconsiderable places. 
 A rickety old wharf of palmettoes, with a few 
 straggling dwellings, constitutes every thing of 
 interest. 
 
 But here we catch the first glimpses of a tropical 
 growth. A few rods distant from the landing 
 stands a small grove of palmettoes ; though not 
 over twenty-five feet in height, yet their 
 peculiar character attracts the attention of the 
 Northern traveler. Casting your eye farther 
 inland, and the green forests tell of a perpetual 
 spring ; and we now realize that we have passed 
 from the chilling winds of a Northern winter to 
 the genial skies of that sunny land, of which we 
 
 a fine Ladies' Seminary in operation, and though the town is 4ull tbe 
 people are extremely kind and agreeable to strangers. 
 
MAY POET. 75 
 
 SO often hear, but seldom or never experience in 
 any other of the Southern States. 
 
 Passing the headlands, an open flat, or savanna, 
 appears, in width perhaps five miles, extending 
 however, many miles up along the coast as 
 far as the eye can reach. The river crosses, in a 
 westerly direction, this low tract, much resem- 
 bling the Jersey flats between Newark and New 
 York. We soon pass on, and by the solid 
 banks of the main land. Three hundred years 
 ago and more, Jean Ribault threaded his way 
 over the dangerous quicksands at the entrance of 
 this noble river, and, proceeding up, landed, and 
 built a monument of discovery ; then sailed away, 
 to return in a few years with a colony of his 
 countrymen, who were subsequently slaughtered 
 by the Spaniards, as we have seen in a previous 
 chapter. 
 
 Not more than a mile from the mouth of the 
 river, and on the banks of this low marsh, we 
 saw, to our great wonderment, as the steamer 
 hugged the banks, seven alligators of varying 
 sizes, and all within a few yards of each other. 
 They did not stir, or even wink, so far as one 
 could observe, though the steamer's waves washed 
 up to and partially over them. This was a new 
 
76 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 and curious sight, and gave promise of some fine 
 sport, wliich it was hinted we should have on the 
 upper portion of the river, where they abound. 
 
 A recent traveler, entering the river, and 
 sailing westward across the marsh before referred 
 to, to the point of the main land where the river 
 turns abruptly southward, asserts, that, in making 
 this turn, a curious atmospheric phenomenon is met 
 with ; a current of warm air is so suddenly en- 
 countered, drawing down the river, that the 
 change is like going from a cold hall into a warm 
 room ; that this change can be . observed, not 
 only on a calm day, but when a high wind is 
 blowing. It is undoubtedly the gate, as it were, 
 to that tropical land where perpetual summer 
 reigns. 
 
 The invalid and the tourist flock eagerly to the 
 steamer's decks, to drink in this balmy air, and 
 feast their eyes on the green foliage of the forest 
 which flanks on either side the water's edire. 
 The drooping spirits of the passengers rise as the 
 steamer advances up the broad and beautiful river 
 which so delights all eyes and gives eloquence to 
 every tongue. The surface of the country is low 
 and uniform, presenting none of those grand and 
 
THE ST. JOHN'S EIVER. 77 
 
 startllno; features wliicli cliaracterize the Hudson 
 or render the Connecticut surprisingly lovely; 
 yet it possesses a marked and pleasing contrast to 
 the muddy waters of the Santee, Cooper, Savan- 
 nah, and other rivers of the South. Its shores of 
 glisterdng white sand, and rich verdure of Southern 
 foliage along its banks, with its broad, expansive, 
 slow-moving waters, attract and interest all, and 
 especially those who are accustomed only to the 
 bolder outlines and scantier vegetation of the more 
 northern water-courses. 
 
 The course of the River St. John is noteworthy. 
 There are but few rivers on the globe, of any 
 magnitude, that run in the same direction. Rising 
 in the southern half of the State, fed by and 
 flowino; out of that vast fresh-water basin 
 formed by the everglades and savannas, and com- 
 mencing below the 28th degree of latitude, it runs 
 in a due northerly course for about two hun- 
 dred miles, when it abruptly turns eastward, 
 and empties into the ocean. It is a magnificent 
 highway, and is to Eastern Florida what the Hud- 
 son is to Eastern New York. We know of but 
 two rivers of any importance whose direction is 
 exactly the same. One of these drains the 
 
78 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 northern limits of Britisli America, and debouches 
 into the Arctic Ocean ; and the other, having its 
 sources in Middle Europe, into the Baltic Sea. 
 We have said the St. John's was a noble river : and 
 it is truly so ; for what river can the reader call to 
 mind, which he has seen, that for over one hun- 
 dred miles of its length has a general average of 
 even one mile and a half? We know of but one 
 other in this country, which would come even up to 
 this estimate. Yet shall the truth be credited, 
 when we state that this river will average about 
 three miles in width for the distance above named ! 
 In places it expands to twice that ; and we can not 
 recall seeing it contract at any point to less than a 
 mile, after you get fah'ly into the river, until Lake 
 George is passed, above Palatka, when it narrows 
 suddenly, and continues thus to Lake Monroe, 
 which is the head of regular steamboat navigation, 
 though a small steamer does go on as far as Lake 
 Harney, and even beyond, but only at the instance 
 of excursion parties. This portion of the river, 
 known as the " Upper St. John's," we shall speak 
 of in a subsequent chapter ; meanwhile we retui'u 
 to " The City Point," on which we were just now 
 steaming up, o'i our way to Jacksonville, some 
 
THE CITY OF JACKSONVILLE. 79 
 
 twenty miles from the river's mouth. Passing 
 Yellow BIuiF, a small landing of trifling impor- 
 tance, at which the steamer halted, and rounding 
 a bold point in the river, w^e heave in sight of 
 Jacksonville, the commercial metropolis and busi- 
 ness center of Eastern Florida. All eyes are 
 upon the town, and all are pleasantly surprised to 
 see what is apparently and actually a flourishing 
 little city. Its bright, cheerful appearance, having 
 a fine view, as we near the pier, is attractive, and 
 so differing from Fernandina, the first point 
 touched in the State, that we already are having 
 our original anticipations more than realized, and 
 begin to rejoice that we have made the journey, 
 which was undertaken at the outset with some 
 misgivings. 
 
 JACKSONVILLE 
 
 is situated on the western bank of the river. There 
 is a ferry across to the opposite shore, where are a 
 number of pleasant homes, and among them is that 
 of the present State Executive, Gov. Reed. The old 
 stage-road, called the" Kings Road," runs from this 
 place along the coast, north, into Georgia, and across 
 the river south-west some forty miles, to St. Augus- 
 tine. The travel now goes to that place chiefly by the 
 
80 A AVINTER IN FLORIDA 
 
 way of Picolata, some thirty miles up the river, 
 thence by stage eighteen miles across. The rail- 
 road connections of Jacksonville are considerable, 
 and give a life and bustle to the town which we 
 scarce expected. True, but one line of road 
 enters the city ; but this runs in direct connec- 
 tion with the various roads in, and those entering 
 the State. At Baldwin, some twenty'- miles west, 
 connection is made w^ith the Fernandina and Cedar 
 Keyes Road, which crosses at that point. Pro- 
 ceeding westward to Live-Oak Junction, connec- 
 tion is made with tlie Florida and Atlantic and 
 GulfR. R., for Savannah, which is distant from 
 Jacksonville twelve hours and a half by the night 
 express-train. Continuing westward from Live 
 Oak, the road runs through to Tallahassee and St. 
 Marks on the Gulf. 
 
 Jacksonville, named for Gen. Jackson, is an in- 
 corporated city, having the usual city officers and 
 a board of trade. It is regularly laid out, having 
 eight principal streets about two miles long, and 
 running parallel with the river : these are crossed 
 by others at right angles, their length being 
 easily extended, ad infinitum. Shade-trees abound, 
 and of fine size, consisting of live and water oaks, 
 
THE SUBUEBS OF JACKSONVILLE. 81 
 
 the latter making for this purpose much the finest 
 tree. Its luxuriant and rapid growth and hardi- 
 ness have caused it to be adopted. They are both 
 evergreens. From the river, northward a short 
 distance, the land has a gentle elevation ; then 
 descends, terminating in a low tract or swamp. 
 On the north-western side of the city is a beauti- 
 ful bluff, covered with attractive residences, shaded 
 with stately trees, and bearing the pleasant name 
 of " La Villa.'' The view up the river from 
 this point is delightfal. This suburb is, however, 
 being rapidly overshadowed by the more recent 
 and important one fronting the shore, and lying 
 just beyond, known as ''Riverside.'* A small 
 steamer plies morning and evening between it and 
 the city for the accommodation of the public. The 
 place is otherwise quite accessible, as the distance 
 does not much exceed a mile from the centre of 
 Jacksonville by the ordinary highway. The view 
 from this point is extremely interesting, showing 
 the city and river. This place is now being 
 built up, and designed to be made a select quarter. 
 Its streets are spacious, and a park has been re- 
 served, and many shade-trees planted. None but 
 fine buildings are to be erected ; and all must be 
 
 6 
 
82 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 painted, instead of whitewashed, — a practice fol- 
 lowed by owners of cheaper dwellings in the 
 city. 
 
 Steamers arrive and depart daily at this port, 
 engaged in the river trade and travel, not includ- 
 ing the lines to Savannah and Charleston, em- 
 ploying four large boats besides the regular one 
 to St. Augustine, leaving every alternate day. 
 
 On every hand, we behold the magic touch of 
 Northern hands and Northern capital. Whichever 
 way we turn, new buildings and stores greet our 
 view ; old ones being enlarged, streets cleaned, 
 and substantial, or at least convenient plank- 
 walks laid where lately they were innocent of any 
 such improvement. On the river, wharves are 
 enlarged, till now its accommodations seem ample 
 for an extensive commerce. In short, new im- 
 pulses and new ideas have seized the town ; and its 
 present w^atchword is " Forwax'd." 
 
 The population of the place is about six thou- 
 sand, increased during the winter months to about 
 eight thousand, by the influx of strangers from 
 all portions of the North, seeking temporary 
 homes. Not until the past year has there been 
 any thing like adequate accommodations for this 
 
HOTELS AT JACKSONVILLE. 83 
 
 large number, not taking into account the constant 
 flow of visitors going and returning. Great exer- 
 tions have been and are being made to supply the 
 demand for small houses, and Northern energy 
 and capital are kept busy. Even that venerable 
 and itinerant agriculturist of " The Tribune," Mr. 
 Solon Robinson, is busied almost night and day, we 
 should judge, in superintending and building 
 houses of this class. 
 
 As to hotels, there are several ; though the most 
 important is " The St. James," erected in time 
 to reap considerable of a harvest from last season's 
 business. It is a large, commodious, and rather 
 imposing establishment, capable of receiving two 
 hundred guests. It is situated about half a mile 
 from the steamboat landing, and likewise the rail- 
 road depot, and seems every way adapted to the 
 wants of the travehng public. Another house of 
 equal capacity is, we learn, contemplated. " The 
 Price House," situated at the depot of the Savan- 
 nah road, is a convenient and comfortable hotel, 
 with obliging and polite hosts. Then there is the 
 *• International," and numerous private boarding- 
 houses* kept by Northern people, with pleasant 
 surroundings, and quite as inviting as the hotels to 
 
 ♦ Stickney'8, Peck's, Warner's, Saddler's, and Eickcr's ore to bo 
 commenaed. 
 
84 A WINTER IN" FLORIDA. 
 
 those seeking but a temporary home. Price of 
 board ranges from twenty-five dollars to ten dollars 
 per week at these various places. Unfurnished 
 cottages can be had from twenty dollars to thirty 
 dollars per month. Pleasant furnished rooms in 
 private houses, including fuel, light, and attend- 
 ance, are from four dollars to six dollars per week ; 
 and the best board, without rooms, at the hotels, is 
 eleven dollars per week, while in boarding-houses 
 it can be obtained at a less figure. Laundry work 
 is extra, and costs usually one dollar per dozen. 
 
 The city contains numerous churches, repre- 
 senting nearly all denominations; the most of 
 them are, however, in a feeble condition. There 
 is but one newspaper, The Florida TJnion^ pub- 
 lished weekly and tri-weekly, under the control 
 and management of Edv^ard M. Cheney, who 
 hopes to issue by another season a daily paper 
 from his office. The press is a great power to 
 build up the "waste places," and the people can 
 not afford to hinder its growth among them. 
 
 The colored element in Jacksonville is numeri- 
 cally the largest. They support churches and 
 schools, and are represented in the city govern- 
 ment and in the courts, and are to be found, as 
 
STEAM SAW-MILLS. 85 
 
 they always have been more or less, in the me- 
 chanics' shops, and behind the counters of some 
 stores. Under and by the direction of the Freed- 
 man's Bureau, a normal-school building was some 
 time since erected, at a cost of fourteen thou- 
 sand dollars, which offers superior educational ad- 
 vantages for all classes ; though we are informed 
 that none but colored children avail themselves of 
 its benefits. 
 
 The chief article of manufacture and export, 
 not only from this city, but from Eastern Florida, 
 is pine lumber. Jacksonville has more than a dozen 
 extensive steam saw-mills, kept constantly in mo- 
 tion, cutting up logs into lumber for the markets 
 north. Whole forests go down to keep the maw^s of 
 these monsters supplied. Whether this will always 
 last is doubtful ; for, in the aggregate, a small 
 army is kept plying the axe just back of the main 
 river and along its tributaries. We say "just back" 
 from the river. Along the banks of the water- 
 courses no pine lumber grows ; but a short distance 
 back from them, in many cases less than a hundred 
 rods, pine lumber abounds : indeed, it is the chief 
 thing in this State, as it is in all the States belting 
 the Atlantic, as far up as the James River in 
 Virginia. 
 
86 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 The commerce of this place is equal to that of 
 some cities in the North of three times its popula- 
 tion. Brigs, schooners, and steamers, several in 
 the aggregate, arrive and depart almost daily for 
 different ports up the river or along the sea-coast 
 from Savannah to Portland. 
 
 A daily mail arrives by rail from the North ; and 
 this, with the telegraph, gives Jacksonville an im- 
 portance which no other town in East Florida pos^ 
 sesses : indeed, this is the only town which has 
 both of these luxuries, though all the river-towns 
 have abundant mail facilities. There is a tele- 
 graph to St. Augustine. 
 
 In our next chapter, we shall continue our voy- 
 age up the river, noting every thing of interest 
 which came under our observation. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FKOM JACKSONVILLE TO GREEX-COVE SPRINGS. 
 
 Attractions of the Lower St. John's. — Its Great Width. — The Pas* 
 sengers, their Hopes, and Prospects. — Mandaiun, the Winter Resi- 
 dence of Mrs. Stowe. — Ancient Landmarks. — Hibernia and Mag- 
 nolia Point. — Green-Cove Springs. — Its Attractions for Invalids. 
 — Capt. Henderson and his Northern Friends. — Black Creek and 
 Alligators. — An Adventure. — Eide to Middleburg. 
 
 A BEAUTIFUL day is this in which to resume our 
 trip. The sun comes out full and warm : over- 
 coats are not thought of. It is quite Hke a warm 
 day in May, when the bees are busy with the 
 flowers, and apple-orchards are more fragrant and 
 delightful than any Eastern perfume. The air 
 seems redolent with the odor of balsam and wild 
 flowers, wafted thitherward by southern gales, 
 while on either shore the foliage is bursting into 
 freshest and tenderest green, contrasting finely 
 with the dark verdure of the perennial laurel, oak, 
 and magnolia, which line the river-sides. 
 
 It is a common term, '' up the river," or '' up 
 
 87 
 
88 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 north ; " and since most rivers riji southerly, up 
 the river gives an impression of going northward. 
 We say " up north " and " down south ; " these 
 terms are all understood when thus used : but to 
 say " up the river," in speaking of the St. Johns's, 
 means going souths since the river runs from the 
 south toward the north. Hence, every revolution 
 of the steamer's wheels carries us " up the river," 
 and at the same time "down south." 
 
 By the time our steamer had gotten fairly under 
 way, the passengers had chiefly assembled upon 
 the decks to feast their eyes on each interesting 
 point and feature of the river, and to gaze in won- 
 der at its emerald shores, which now stand several 
 miles away on either hand, while our vessel plows 
 its trackless way in the center of the river. 
 
 Turning toward Jacksonville, it seems but a 
 small village, and nearly hidden at that by its 
 luxuriant shade-trees. If one were suddenly placed 
 where we now are, the first query would likely be, 
 " What lake is this ? " and such it seems to those 
 who have been accustomed only to the streams 
 and rivers of New England. 
 
 Our passengers may be divided into four classes, 
 and preponderate in the order in which they are 
 
THE PASSENGEES. 8t 
 
 named : first, those who are seekmg pleasure ; sec- 
 ond, those who are seeking health ; third, those who 
 come to invest in land for speculation or occupancy ; 
 fourth, the resident population living along the 
 river, and traveling on their ordinary business. 
 The first and more numerous class appear generally 
 to realize their object, and are greatly interested 
 and delighted with every thing they see, which is so 
 novel, if not so wonderful, as to engage and enliven 
 them constantly. It is indeed a source of real 
 amusement to observe the younger portion of this 
 class rush from point to point, as some stray mem- 
 ber of the company spies some near or distant ob- 
 ject thought worthy of the others' attention. The 
 next class, the invalids, are not so demonstrative, 
 but show many signs of confident hope and real 
 delight to find themselves in a climate where thev 
 can, with comparative impunity, not only sit and 
 walk in the open, genial air without detriment, but 
 with real benefit to their spirits and general health. 
 This class is largely composed of those on whom 
 disease has so recently fastened itself as to scarce 
 indicate its presence. These must be very greatly 
 benefited, if not wholly cured ; while others are so 
 far reduced as to make traveling of any kind a 
 
90 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 burthen and labor. Such we greatly pity ; for in 
 their faces hope is a stranger, and they can not 
 long remain in any clime or earthly habitation. 
 They come here to die, far from home, deprived 
 of the sympathy and attention of loving and watch- 
 ful friends, and of home-comforts which money 
 can not purchase. It is true that the people here 
 are kind, and give such attention as is in their 
 power ; yet this does not compensate for a wife's, 
 a mother's, or a sister's tender interest and pres- 
 ence. 
 
 The speculative class may be known by their 
 inquisitive look. Every feature of their face seems 
 an interrogation point. They seem bent on ex- 
 tracting from you information as to the best loca- 
 tion, kind of soil, and climate, and if there are any 
 snakes in that neio;hborhood, and if we know of a 
 good place for a hotel! Many are the times we 
 have been greatly amused by the ingenious 
 methods of these persons in their attempts at elicit- 
 ing their prized information. To such as we felt 
 were anxious to locate, our limited knowledge was 
 freely imparted ; but to the other portion of this 
 class, those looking for a " good thing to hold," 
 our snake-stories had no relish : they were twice too 
 
THE KESIDEKCE OF MRS. STOWE. 91 
 
 long and plenty for tlieir fancy, and they invaria- 
 bly "moved on," quite astonished and disappointed. 
 Nothing but the " pesky rebels and them are 
 snakes " gave them cause for any apprehension. 
 
 There is a good deal of a fitful fever of specula- 
 tion, which is prevented from settling into any 
 thing like a decided type, in consequence of the 
 difficulties surrounding a good title. Then, too, 
 many of those who hold lands are women (widows, 
 made so perhaps by the war) ; and these especially, 
 if asked to set a price, fear to do so lest they should 
 regret not having asked twice as much. Pur- 
 chasers are not a little disgusted, and generally 
 return without having made an investment. By 
 and by these things will change ; but, even as it is, 
 new settlers are working their way into all portions 
 of the State. 
 
 A long shrill whistle by the steamer an- 
 nounces a landing, and the wharf at 
 
 MANDARIN 
 
 lies just before us. This place is famous as the winter 
 residence of Mrs. Stowe. It is but a small settle- 
 ment, of perliaps a half-dozen dwellings scattered 
 along a tongue of land projecting toward the cen- 
 ter of the river, and forming a kind of bay. The 
 outlook is northerly toward Jacksonville, which 
 
92 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 lies half a score of miles distant down the river. 
 The location of Mandarin is exceedingly pleasant, 
 and the view fine and far-re achino;. 
 
 The water near the bank of the river on the 
 Lower St. John's is quite shallow, necessitating a 
 projecting pier of some length at all of the land- 
 ings ; and this is especially the case at Mandarin. 
 Mrs. Stowe's house is near the bank, and but a few 
 rods to the left of the shore-end of the pier. It is 
 of a dark brown color, of very moderate cottage 
 size, wholly unpretending in appearance, and quite 
 inexpensive. The chief feature of her place, as 
 seen from the river, is its mao-nificent towering 
 shade-trees, — the live-oak. They attract and 
 fasten the eyes of all by their unusual size and 
 beauty. Their wide-spread and over-shadowing 
 branches give an air of seclusion and dignity to the 
 quiet home beneath. Her place, we are informed, 
 consists of some forty acres in the rear of her 
 dwelling, with three or four acres of orange-trees, 
 large enough to bear fruit. This grove is being 
 added to, and doubtless in time she will possess a 
 very large and beautiHd orchai'd and one of great 
 value. 
 
 There is but one small boarding-house at Man- 
 
HIBERNIA — MAGNOLIA POINT. 93 
 
 darin, and few disembark ; none that we notice, 
 except such as reside in the vicinity. The mails 
 being exchanged and freight left, we steam on, and 
 up the river ; and, rounding the point, 
 
 HIBERNIA 
 
 is seen just ahead, on our starboard bow. Beyond 
 is a spacious, overgrown New-England-appearing 
 farm-house, hid behind clustering trees and 
 branches, on a pleasant and inviting spot of land ; 
 and, aside from this, nothing else appears. The 
 steamer stops, and here a goodly number leave for 
 the hotel. Here and there appears an occasional 
 fine plantation, with comfortable dwellings and 
 numerous outbuildings, once the house of the 
 lordly planter and his slaves, but now simply 
 monuments of a past and exploded sj^stem. 
 
 Next is 
 
 Magnolia, 
 with a large and commodious hotel. This place 
 was formerly owned by Dr. W. D. Benedict, and 
 originally selected by him after careful examina- 
 tion for its attractive natural scenery and high 
 sanitary reputation. This property has recently 
 been purchased by Dr. S. Eogers and 0. F. Har- 
 
94 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 ris, formerly of Worcester, Mass., and by them 
 greatly improved ; the baildings having been en- 
 larged, thoroughly repaired, and newly furnished 
 throughout for the accommodation of about one 
 hundred guests. We know this house to be in 
 every respect a first-class one, and unexcelled for 
 beauty of location, or in comfort and neatness, by 
 any on the river. Its proximity to Jacksonville 
 and Green Cove Springs gives it some advantages 
 not possessed by towns further up the river. 
 The facilities for reaching these several places, 
 situate on the banks of the St. John's, are the 
 same. The Savannah, Charleston, and river 
 steamers all touch, going up and down long 
 enough to leave or take aboard both passengers 
 and freight. The captain of one of the river 
 steamers states that Magnolia Point, contiguous 
 to Magnolia, is one of the highest, if not the 
 highest point of land extending into the river 
 between Jacksonville and Palatka. It certainly 
 has two commanding views : that down the river 
 extends to Mandarin, and up the river your pros- 
 pect is not less circumscribed. Black Creek, a 
 navigable stream for twenty miles, and quite well 
 settled, empties into the St. John's but a short 
 
GREEX-COVE SPRINGS. 95 
 
 distance north of Mao-nolia Point. Small steamers 
 make trips regularly once a week from Jacksonville 
 up Black Creek as far as Middleburg, and not 
 unfrequently oftener, as parties or business re- 
 quire. 
 
 Immense quantities of pine timber and lumber 
 are floated down tliis creek to Jacksonville ; and an 
 equal quantity of alligators might be taken out, 
 we have no doubt, if there were only as good a 
 market for them as for the lumber, which at 
 present unfortunately does not appear. These 
 animals, after passing the first few miles at the 
 mouth of the river, — which is through a low 
 marsh, as we have stated, — are scarcely seen 
 between Jacksonville and Palatka, not because 
 they are not numerous enough, perhaps, but for 
 the reason that they find more quiet and better 
 feeding-places in the coves and up the large and 
 small creeks which flow into the St. John's ; and, 
 among these, Black Creek seems a favorite re- 
 sort. 
 
 Two miles beyond Magnolia, past the first point 
 of land, a beautiful spacious bay is seen, on the 
 shores of which stands 
 
96 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 a' 
 
 GREEN-COVE SPRINGS. 
 
 This is the first village after Jacksonville, and the 
 only considerable place between it and Palatka, a 
 distance of one hundred miles (round numbers). 
 More than a score of well-dressed people are 
 standing on the end of the pier, awaiting our 
 arrival : and full that number land with piles of 
 baggage, looking quite as though they had come to 
 stay ; and this is likely, for here the tourist and 
 invalid find extra attractions as the name would 
 indicate. There is a healthful and charmino; 
 spring here, where all may bathe and frequent, 
 without money or price. The village is scattered 
 along and back from the banks, in a somewhat 
 straggling manner, with not over thirty dwellings ; 
 yet you feel their influence and companionship, 
 and this drives off the blues, and is certainly an 
 advantasie to the invalid as also the traveler. 
 
 The accommodations for guests are quite ample ; 
 though, if they were greater, they would not stand 
 idle. We know of quite a number, who, coming 
 in on the steamer, were informed that all rooms 
 were filled, and were obliged to re-embark and 
 seek some less frequented place. There is a large 
 
ACCOMMODATIONS AT GREEN COVE. 97 
 
 hotel here, The Union House, kept bv Mrs. Eaton, 
 thou2:h nommallv in charo;e of Mr. Reminn;ton, a 
 Northern man. This house will receive comfort- 
 ably about fifty guests. It is large and airy, but 
 shockingly needs a coat of paint and some repairs, 
 and also more prompt attention to guests, to make 
 it more welcome as a home. Still, it does very 
 nicely ; and doubtless it is the intention of the 
 owner to introduce the suggested improvements 
 by another season.* There is also a large board- 
 ing-house near the spring, whose proprietor has 
 such an odd foreign name that it quite escapes us. 
 His house accommodates twenty, f Then a few pri- 
 vate families open their houses and receive guests. 
 Capt. Henry Henderson and his warm-hearted 
 companion never turn any away if they have any 
 sort of accommodations for them. Their house is 
 not large, but it covers a great many people. 
 Capt. Henderson is a favorite with the visitors. 
 His extensive acquaintance with, and long experi- 
 ence in the State, have given him a vast fund of 
 information and anecdote with which he beguiles 
 the evening hours, — the center of attentive circles. 
 Everybody knows him among the natives ; and he 
 
 * Some of the improvements needed have been made since the above 
 was written. The house was kept in 18G'J-70 by llemington & Eccd, 
 
 + Captain Glinskie. i. 
 
98 A WIKTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 is much respected and esteemed by tliem as a man 
 of spotless integrity and honor. He is a native of 
 St. Lawrence County, New York, and has been 
 in Florida forty-five years: he is now seventy- 
 three years of age, yet he boasts of his abihty to 
 "take his horse and hunt with any of the boys." 
 He enjoys a social game of eucher ; and scarce an 
 evening, when not interesting some one with his 
 wild and fascinating adventures, he might be 
 found seated with Tompkins of Stony Point, Mer- 
 rill of Vermont, and Hughes of Ohio, each trying 
 to outdo the other in friendly strife. The captain 
 is hale and hearty still. 
 
 Our home in this village was with the family of 
 P. R. Coleman of Orange County, New York. 
 He has been in the State but a couple of years. 
 He came out alone, afflicted with chronic rheuma- 
 tism ; but settling at this point, by systematic 
 bathing and copious drinking of the pleasant waters 
 of the spring here, he claims to be entirely cured: 
 certainly he has now a fresh and vigorous appear- 
 ence. Deciding to settle here, he sent for his 
 family ; and v/itli them we found a comfortable 
 home. Mrs. Coleman, a most amiable lady, 
 brought with her what many people car; iiever 
 
CHARACTER OF THE SPRING. 99 
 
 carry, for obvious reasons, the perfect art of house- 
 keeping as known in our best Northern homes. 
 Should this family remain at Green Cove, we feel 
 bound to assure all who are so fortunate as to find 
 lodgings under their roof, that they need borrow 
 no trouble or anxiety as to their comfort while they 
 remain. 
 
 The price of board varies from ten to fifteen 
 dollars per week. By the day, at the hotel, it is 
 three dollars ; at the private houses, two dollars. 
 
 Fresh fish, venison, and fowl grace the tables in 
 this village, and can usually be had in abundance. 
 
 The river is, in fact, full of every kind of fish, 
 and on its surface float nearly all kinds of water- 
 fowl ; while the woods afford an abundance of 
 game and wild animals, of which we shall more 
 fully treat in some succeeding chapter. 
 
 The spring is the attraction at Green Cove, 
 distant not over ten rods from the river, and 
 double that from the principal hotel. It is owned, 
 as are most of the village lots, by two parties, — 
 Mrs. Ferris and a Mr. Palmer at Jacksonville ; 
 who being opposed to improvements, and seem- 
 ingly to every enterprise as well as to their own 
 interests, suffer the spring to remain surrounded 
 
100 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 by a clump of wild trees, wliich, however, serves 
 a good purpose in screening bathers ; yet it is not 
 to the interest of the villagers to have affairs con- 
 tinue in their present unimproved state.* The 
 spring has scooped for itself a bed, twenty by 
 fifty feet, and lies some ten feet below the sur- 
 rounding level. It flows freely from its fountain- 
 head into this spacious reservoir, of an average of 
 five feet in depth, and then runs rapidly off to the 
 river. The water is at a temperature of, we 
 should judge, about seventy-five degrees, very 
 pleasant, and thoroughly unharmful to drink. It 
 bursts up with considerable force, and clear as 
 crystal. It has a slight sulphurous taste, and leaves 
 slight traces of the same mineral on the sides of 
 the spring. Both magnesia and iron are, we 
 think, held in solution. Every one spoke in high 
 praise of this spring- water, both as a drink and for 
 bathing uses ; for the latter of which, regular 
 hours are assigned to the different sexes. A dozen 
 or more rude yet convenient dressing-houses sur- 
 round it. 
 
 In a short time, Green Cove must become, for 
 invalids at least, the chief point of attraction on the 
 River St. John's. This conclusion we have come 
 
 * Since writing the above, the spring has been leased to parties who 
 are to improve the grounds. 
 
AN ADVENTURE. 101 
 
 to after having visited every other place on its 
 entire length. The sportsman, however, should 
 locate on the Upper St. John's, many miles above 
 this. The tourist and pleasure-seeker will not un- 
 likely visit all the towns along the river ; and even 
 this latter class would find this point a proper and 
 convenient one as a head-quarters. It has quick 
 and frequent communication with Jacksonville, 
 often several times each day ; the mails are very 
 regular ; and, in case of any exigency, the tele- 
 graph is accessible at the latter place, where also 
 the usual accessories to comfortable housekeeping 
 may be easily obtained. 
 
 Up Black Creek to Middleburg, the head of 
 navigation, is some twenty miles. The county- 
 seat is located there ; and before the war it was a 
 respectable village, with a convenient hotel, where 
 numerous invalids found cheap and not uncom- 
 fortable quarters. This, with other buildings, was 
 in one of the many raids through this section 
 destroyed. A small steamer runs up there once 
 each week from Jacksonville, when not otherwise 
 employed ; which happened to be the case at the 
 time we were ready to go ! A trip across the 
 country through the woods was resolved upon. 
 
102 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 The needed equipments were a horse and '' Colt," 
 the latter of the revolving breed ; to procure which, 
 we were directed down the river road, a mile away, 
 and thither we bent our steps. The first -half- 
 mile we had no difficulty in following the " road; " 
 after that, it became a serious question : but, keep- 
 ing the edge of the river, we came where several 
 old slabs, and a log or two half submerged, lay 
 across the arm of a projecting pool, overgrown 
 with pond-liHes, and filled with water as black as 
 ink, colored doubtless by the decaying vegetable 
 matter it held. We essayed to cross. Rapid mo- 
 tion was a necessity. Having gained the center 
 in comparative safety, we made a long stride, and 
 leaped on what seemed a portion of the floating, 
 jointless bridge ; when, horror of horrors, in a mo- 
 ment, a flash of time, yet long enough to awaken us 
 to the imminent danger, a sudden, writhing plunge, 
 and fierce splash of the living tail of the supposed 
 log, and we went swirling into the water among 
 the slabs, from which our fright and frenzy speedily 
 brought us, somewhat wet and bruised, but ex- 
 ceedingly thanlvful. The deceitful " old log " was 
 a few yards away, slowly sailing toward a circle 
 of weeds and tall grass, with his round eyes just 
 
OUR ALLIGATOR. 103 
 
 above the water's surface, and evidently surveying 
 us, while we shook our impotent fists in rage at his 
 head. This clump of grass and reeds, we con- 
 cluded, must have been a regular alligators' nest ; 
 for, besides this big fellow that had so incontinently 
 upset us, we counted three others adjacent, and all 
 within five rods from the spot on which we now 
 stood. That alligators are comparatively harmless 
 to people, we had been told, and had now some 
 reason to believe : still, we should not like to en- 
 counter them in the water. A hundred years ago, 
 they were much more plentiful than now along this 
 river. Bartram, the younger, relates having seen 
 them everywhere along the river and the banks 
 of the St. John's. He also mentions their trying 
 to get into his boat when it was tied to the bank ; 
 but he did not suppose it was their intention to 
 destroy it, but merely to possess its contents, 
 riiey will give fearful battle among themselves 
 frequently. The two master annuals of different 
 communities have, like champions, been seen by 
 Bartram to engage each other in a terrible contest ; 
 the others being silent spectators to the close of the 
 scene, when the friends of the winnino; combatant 
 would roar with a victorious clamor. We have 
 
104 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 never heard of any person being destroyed by them, 
 or injured except when imprudently approaching 
 them on shore while wounded. We might have 
 captured one had Mr. Murray's intrepid guide, of 
 Adirondack celebrity, been along at the time of 
 crossing the floating bridge, w^e should have had no 
 difficulty in securing the alligator for preservation 
 in some historical or antiquarian collection ; since, 
 if he had had the same presence of mind as when 
 he caught and held Murray's deer, the question 
 of capture could not have been a doubtful one, 
 as his opportunities to liold on would have been 
 greater ! We should at least have surrendered 
 with as much nonchalance as Mr. Murray, our 
 claim to the beast. 
 
 We returned to the villao;e with couracie una- 
 bated, but our bump of caution had been by the 
 morning's adventures considerably enlarged. Pro- 
 curing a team of a villager, who kindly consented 
 to accompany us, we proceeded, but on quite 
 another road, across the pine woods, dodging the 
 obstructions, and, notwithstanding, making good 
 time. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CENTRAL FLORIDA. 
 
 From Green-Cove Springs to Picolata. — Appearance of Picolata. — 
 The Steamer "Darlington." — Capt. Brock and "Admiral" Rose. 
 — Palatka, its Commerce and Importance. — Climate. — An 
 Orange-Grove. — Dunn's Lake. — The Ocklawaha Eiver. — Beau- 
 ties of the Upper St. John's. — The Mocking-Bu:d« 
 
 PICOLATA. 
 
 To Picolata from Green Cove is but a couple of 
 hours' sail ; fare, one dollar. The only impression 
 made by this short trip on the river was its lake- 
 like appearance. Picolata figures conspicuously on 
 most of the maps as an important town ; but the 
 reality is so absolutely nothing, that it is truly 
 lauMiable to think that it should ever have had 
 any name beyond, perhaps, " Brown's Farm," or 
 " Smith's Stables." An inventory is as quickly 
 given as any thing : one beer-shop, one comfort- 
 able farm-dwelling, and a few rude stalls constructs 
 ed and occupied for the use of the stage-lines to 
 St. Augustine is all. Beyond being the nearest 
 point on the river to that old city, and the place 
 
 105 
 
106 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 where passengers destined for St. Augustine dis- 
 embark, it is of no importance. We doubt whether 
 a respectable pauper at the North would take the 
 whole thing as a gift, and be obliged to stay upon it. 
 
 On our return trip, we shall get off here, and go 
 by stage 18 miles through the pine woods to the 
 old city. But, for the present, we propose to take 
 the reader to the Upper St. John's, the gem of all 
 rivers. 
 
 Making no note of the several small landings, 
 where our steamer, '' The Darlington," called for 
 wood and delivered the mails, we are only in- 
 terested m the broad river which moves toward 
 the sea, and watch the flocks of wild ducks as they 
 fly athwart our bows, and dream of the fascination 
 which this land had for those who were its first and 
 rightful owners. Here were fish, flesh, and fowl at 
 their feet, in quantities sufficient to supply their 
 demands ; and no wonder they disputed the inva- 
 der's right to the last acre with an unequaled 
 desperation and heroism. 
 
 The sky, which has all day been bright and 
 sunny, is fast becoming overcast with threatening 
 clouds, that seem to gather rapidly in the south- 
 west : an hour later, and the slanting rain warns us 
 
THE ''DARLIKGTON." 107 
 
 off the deck, and we seek the cabin of our good ship 
 "Darlington." Pei'haps a word as to the boat 
 and its officers will be welcome, since this floating 
 hotel is to be our home for a day or two. First, 
 as to the boat, which has accommodations, we should 
 think, for not over forty passengers, and this trip she 
 was not crowded ; of fair speed, and built not un- 
 like the Western river-boats, — giving up all of the 
 first deck to the machinery and freight, while the 
 upper deck is devoted to passengers ; having two 
 saloons, one quite small for ladies and children, 
 wliile the main saloon is frequented by all ; around 
 this are ranged the state-rooms, while at meal- 
 time it serves as a dining-hall. Its chief officers 
 are Capt. Jacob Brock and Admiral " Rose." 
 The first sails the boat, assisted by a pilot, while 
 the Admiral is in actual command. Since she 
 (the Admiral) is better known along the river 
 and by travelers by the name of " Rose," we may 
 follow the custom, though unquestionably the title 
 is due her. She was not born to bloom and blush 
 unseen, — not she. Her every word of command 
 might be heard ringing out sharp and clear above 
 the noise and confusion at every landing. Her 
 word was law : her orders were instantly executed 
 
108 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 by every officer below the captain ; and with liim 
 she lield occasional conference, m which it could 
 well be observed, by the tone and gesture, that it 
 was she who gave the final word. A stout-built 
 athlete of two hundred pounds, of medium height, 
 a full piercing eye, regular features, and with a 
 peculiarly commanding voice, and look of one whom 
 experience had taught that life was a battle, and 
 they who made the best fight won ; a flow of ideas, 
 logical and pomted, with a half ubiquity of pres- 
 ence and an equal mixture of the Seminole and 
 Anglo-Saxon wine of life, and you have before you 
 the portrait of '^ Admiral Rose." She was a study 
 and an object of no little interest to all. 
 
 Our captain was formerly from Connecticut, 
 we beheve : he at least married there, but has 
 lived long enough away, buffeting the world, as at 
 draes to quite forget the pious teachings of his 
 early youth. However, he is a very efficient, 
 and, so far as we observed, a very obliging officer. 
 His native energy and tact have served him to 
 excellent purpose, we judge ; since he is now not 
 only the master but owner of his boat, as also of 
 the hotel at the end of the route, and other 
 property in the State of considerable value. He 
 
PALATKA. 109 
 
 informed us that lie commenced his steam-boating 
 career on this river nearly fifteen years ago, and 
 that this same " Darlino-ton " had been in service 
 most of that time, and she still seemed good for 
 half a score of additional years. 
 
 PALATKA 
 
 is reached late in the afternoon. This town 
 is on the west side of the river, and is larger 
 than Green Cove : indeed, this is the largest place 
 on the river above Jacksonville, and is about one 
 hundred miles south of the river's mouth. Its 
 population can not be over half a thousand. 
 Occupying a high and dry site above the river, 
 extending a quarter of a mile along its banks, it 
 appears to be a pleasant, thriving village, with 
 eight stores, including a fine drug-store, two large 
 hotels, two churches somewhat neglected, two 
 steam saw-mills, and several fine residences, with 
 the balance plain and scattering. The stores 
 seemed well filled with a large stock of goods, 
 from which an extensive back country had to be 
 supplied. Palatka is a kind of steamboat head- 
 quarters for the Upper St. John's and its tributaries, 
 and is the terminus of the Savannah and Charleston 
 
 9 
 
110 A WINTEE IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 lines ; namely, tlie " Dictator '^ and " City Point," 
 running from Charleston to Jacksonville, tlience 
 to this place. This line is known as the " outside 
 line," since it takes to the ocean between the 
 mouth of the river and Savannah. The other 
 line, composed of the " Nick King," and " Lizzie 
 Baker," runs along the inside passage, off the sea- 
 coast and the mainland, to the mouth of the river, 
 thence to this place, and is known as the " inside 
 line." The two lines make four round trips each 
 week. Then there are the river-lines, which run 
 from Jacksonville up to this place, and beyond, to 
 the head of navigation. These, with the lines to 
 Dunn's Lake and Ocklawaha, which run weekly, 
 make daily arrivals at this point. We counted 
 four steamers tied up to the wharf the evening of 
 our arrival. Most of them lie over here all night, 
 passengers having the privilege of remaining on 
 board or going to that excellent hotel. The Putnam 
 House, kept by E. A. Deuel, of Saratoga Springs, 
 or the " St. John's," which is a favorite with many. 
 Palatka has a newspaper, " The Eastern Herald," 
 a weekly^ of circumscribed dimension and circula- 
 tion. It gave us a surprise to find such an article 
 here, and helped to drive away an impression 
 
AN OEANGE-GROVE. Ill 
 
 which some how had taken hold of us, that we 
 were in the woods. 
 
 Many of the recent settlers or new-comers 
 are from Auburn, and the vicinity of Central 
 New York, — persons whose health has been 
 more or less precarious, and who have found 
 benefit in a residence here. Though their specu- 
 lations, we understand, have not proved as remu- 
 nerative as was anticipated, still, some have taken 
 hold with a resolution that doubtless will, in a 
 few years, " prove some things as well as others." 
 
 Tliis place affords a delightflil climate most of 
 the year, and is in our opinion as far south as 
 invalids need to go, though many do go farther, 
 and perhaps with advantage. 
 
 Early vegetables can be had here in March; 
 and, indeed, we have eaten here, new peas and pota- 
 toes this month. What a strange experience for 
 the Northerner, who has come away from the 
 frozen fields and gardens of the North, where 
 these things do not ripen, on the average, before 
 the 1st of July, over four months later ! 
 
 Opposite this place stands a beautiful orange- 
 grove, owned by H. L. Hart, of Palatka, and 
 known as Hart's Grove. Not since 1835 has 
 
112 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 there been a frost to kill the trees or destroy the 
 crop till last December (1868), when a heavy 
 frost destroyed most of the fruit, except in the 
 southern half of the State; but the trees them- 
 selves received no damage. This grove opposite 
 Palatka contains five hundred trees, and is the 
 largest we have seen in the State. They had 
 commenced to gather the fruit before the frost ; 
 and a single tree had yielded sufficient to net 
 sixty-five dollars, while some trees had over a 
 hundred dollars' worth of oranges.* This grove is 
 neatly kept and very beautiful, and forms the 
 chief attraction about Palatka. 
 
 The character of the river above Palatka is in 
 striking contrast with that of the portion below. 
 The town stands nearly at the central point of its 
 length ; and that portion below, to its mouth, may 
 be rightly designated the " Lower," and that above 
 the " Upper " St. John's ; though, strictly, it is 
 some miles above this town where the river con- 
 tracts rapidly its banks, and discloses those peculiar 
 features which make this peerless river of the 
 South the admiration of every lover of the pictur- 
 esque and beautiful. The water is clear, and the 
 
 * Letter of Frank L. Burr, Esq., in Hartford Times. Our thanks are 
 due to Mr. Burr for copies of bis letters* 
 
THE OCKLAWAHA EIVER. 113 
 
 banks present a richer and more luxuriant growth 
 of semi-tropical vegetation ; and then there is no 
 longer that uniform and monotonous landscape, as 
 below, while each bend of the river presents new 
 beauties in delightful and endless variety. Seven 
 miles above Palatka, and we come to the outlet of 
 Dunn's Lake, lying a few miles to the south-east, 
 which is reached by a small steamer once a week 
 from Palatka. The lands around this lake are hi^h- 
 ly esteemed, being favorable to the cultivation of 
 fruit and vegetables. Several Northern gentlemen 
 own interests there. Our friend David Clark of 
 Hartford is among these. He is a half-owner in 
 a wild-orange grove of several hundred acres, 
 which is now being transplanted into rows, and 
 budded with the sweet fruit. In a few years, he 
 will probably possess one of the finest groves, as 
 well as one of the largest, in the State. The 
 entrance to Dunn's Lake and the mouth of the 
 Ocklawaha River on the St. John's are separated 
 by a distance of about ten miles. The Ocklawaha 
 is a navigable stream for some two hundred miles, 
 running in a tortuous manner westward and 
 southward, passing through occasional lakes, Avitli 
 its source In the everglades of Southern Florida, 
 
114 A "WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 It is a very narrow but a very deep stream, and 
 is over two hundred miles in length. The region 
 of country through which it runs is thought to be 
 finer in many respects than that along the St. 
 John's. Some distance up the river is the famed 
 Silver Spring, a great basin of surprisingly clear 
 and deep water, around which it is supposed clus- 
 tered a populous village of the aborigines num- 
 bering over six thousand inhabitants. There is a 
 semi-weekly line of steamers runniog from Palatka 
 up the Ocklawaha as far as Silver Spring, and a 
 weekly line to Okahumka, the head of navigation. 
 The accommodations are very plain, yet the trip 
 is quite enjoyable. 
 
 Near the mouth of the Ocklawaha is the old 
 town of Welaka, once the site of an Indian village, 
 and afterwards a flourishing Spanish settlement : 
 now scarce a vestige of either of these populations 
 survives to tell of their existence, so completely has 
 time leveled every thmg. Volusia, farther up, 
 and beyond Lake George, is another city of the 
 past with an unwritten history, though known to 
 have been an important point when both the Span- 
 ish and English held it. It was on the Hue of 
 travel, and one of the principal points for crossing 
 
LAKE GEOEGB. 115 
 
 from St. Augustine and the Musquito Inlet country, 
 on the east coast into Middle and Western Florida. 
 It occupies a high site ; and the opposite shore 
 stands boldly out, — quite in opposition to the 
 theory of one writer, who asserts there are no 
 points opposite in this river where both sides are 
 high and dry. Indigo was extensively cultivated 
 in the surrounding country a century ago, while 
 rice and cotton received considerable attention. 
 
 Before reaching this section, however, we pass 
 throuo:h a laro-e lake, some sixteen miles lono; and 
 more than half that distance across, known as 
 Lake George. On entering it, several islands are 
 seen, and one of considerable size, called Rem- 
 brandt's,* that contains near two thousand acres, 
 on which an orange-orchard stands, and a two- 
 story frame-house, which is rather a novelty, since 
 few houses of any sort are seen on the river, so 
 much of a wilderness is it. Even the shore of this 
 lake is scarce broken in its entire circumference 
 by any settlement. 
 
 The St. John's is separated from the ocean its 
 entire length by a comparatively narrow strip of 
 land of not over forty miles in average width. Its 
 banks are mostly low, very apt to be swampy, and 
 
 * Sometimes kno-.vn as Drayton's Island. 
 
116 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 are densely covered with the primeval forest, — 
 live-oaks, water-oaks, bay, gum, and magnolia, 
 hung with the long waving drapery of solemn moss, 
 while the beautiful palm with its crested crown sen- 
 tinels its shores. Beneath and interwoven among 
 these are the wild jessamine and creeping vines, 
 lacing the undergrowth over with an unbroken ver- 
 dure, and rising from the water to the tree-tops. 
 Then a dell appears, festooned with climbing and 
 o'er-arching growths, gracefully curtaining its en- 
 trance, and tempting its beholder within the half- 
 hidden sylvan retreat ; farther on, and a broad ex- 
 panse, or savanna, is seen, bounded by the distant 
 forest, with here and there a solitary palmetto stand- 
 ing alone like a plume. It seems, as we sail, that 
 this might be the land of some marvelous genii, 
 who with a wealth of power had in some fanciful 
 mood created here his home. The floating islands, 
 the dark and silent river with its devious and 
 alluring course, transfixes the eye and fascinates 
 the imagination. By some strange instinct, as it 
 were, our noble ship threads her changeful way 
 steadily and surely past a thousand temptations 
 of equally promising openings. 
 Again and again, this bewitching transfer is 
 
THE BEAUTIFUL EIVER. 117 
 
 made from lao;oon to river and from river to lagoon 
 and lake again. The river here and there closes 
 to within a hundred feet, and is constantly turning 
 the sharpest of angles, running back beside itself, 
 fascinated with its own beauty as it were, then 
 whisking suddenly about, as if on a wager to outdo 
 itself. On either hand, glimpses are had of bays 
 and mirrored waters, whose surface and shores 
 seem likely never to have waked to other echoes 
 than those of the wild birds that inhabit them. 
 Again the river seems lost in a bewildering per- 
 spective of silver streamlets, separated only by 
 some narrow knife-blade of meadow-land and flow- 
 ers ; but up them they are all verdure-banked and 
 moss-hung; and vine-curtained and flower-bedeck- 
 ed, — the very picture of tropical profusion and 
 summer loveliness. The swelHng waves from the 
 passing steamer lift and move away islands that 
 just now were, but which a moment after are 
 seen driftino; with the current and breeze in frao;- 
 mentary sections, each a living, floating, tropical 
 bouquet. 
 
 On these shores were the beautiful homes of 
 those brave red men who were so cruelly hunted 
 by the bloodhounds of Jackson, the story of which 
 
118 A WINTER IN FLO KID A. 
 
 is a (lark and cruel one, and causes marvel at that 
 inscrutable Providence which permits the inhuman- 
 ity of man to his fellows."^ 
 
 The weather is delightful ; and with this odor of 
 summer in the air, the spirit of Beauty everywhere 
 around us, in the voiceful forest and brio-ht waters, 
 we are soon lost in silent contemplation. 
 
 Along the banks, and at the more elevated por- 
 tions, crops out just under the soil a crust of a foot 
 in thickness, of snail-shell formation ; and also the 
 coquina, a species of shell-rock, was seen. Wher- 
 ever this shell is, the soil is fertile, and especially 
 favorable to the growth of the orange, which may 
 be found in a wild state on the banks and lands 
 adjacent. 
 
 The birds and wild fowl seem to have possession 
 of this land, with no one to question their right or 
 to make them afraid — of gunpowder. 
 
 One half of the country upon the Upper St. 
 John's is but a wide, extended plain, half soaked 
 
 * The Administration, it is reported, sanctioned the nse of hlo(yi« 
 hounds in driving the Indians out of Florida. 
 
HOME OF THE WILD BIRDS. 119 
 
 in water, and covered with the tall reed-grass, 
 trampled and broken down by the gigantic water- 
 fowl which inhabit them. Great flocks of herons 
 rise and circle the air, flying in long lines, and 
 making at early morning the sky vocal with their 
 wild song ; then descending in regular column, 
 light either upon the plains to feed, or on the tops 
 of the tall cypress, venerable with years, and 
 bearded all over with the long, waving gray moss 
 which here drapes the forest everywhere. Then 
 again the white curlews, so handsome and so shy, 
 look like troops of embodied spirits, — they are 
 so pure and bright in color. The tall cranes, 
 standing singly here and there, — to birds what the 
 palm is among trees, — start up with a dull and 
 heavy stroke, beating the rank growths heavily 
 for rods along. We have seen them, so large, 
 and so suddenly startled, causing them to. fly forest- 
 ward, where their sweep was so pent up as to 
 prove an ignominious failure, coming down with 
 a 2)iteous cry or squawk, as if for mercy. The 
 pelican is not so often seen. This bird is among 
 the largest in the State, and chiefly frequents the 
 low savannas, but seldom in pairs. Loons of 
 various species inhabit these waters : one is of a 
 
120 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 somewhat remarkable character in color and 
 habits, possessing a sharp bill, and a long slender 
 neck of dun or cream-color, and the body and 
 tail of a jet black, with the latter white-tipped. 
 They seem fond of airing themselves on limbs 
 just above the mirrored waters, whence they 
 doubtless contemplate their figures as reflected by 
 the polished surface beneath with as much in- 
 terest as any modern belle adjusting her toilet in 
 her boudoir. If discovered, they suddenly drop 
 into the water and quite disappear, and in a few 
 moments may be descried rods away, skimming 
 the surface, with nothing but their long necks and 
 the tips of their tails visible above the water. 
 They present the appearance of a water-snake 
 at this time, and are therefore known amono; the 
 people as snake-birds. In paroquets, the colored 
 people find an article of trade and commerce. 
 Numbers of them were brought on board at one 
 of the landings, and were speedily snapped up 
 by the pater familias of admiring and persua- 
 sive young ladles, who thought them " so sjjlen- 
 did,^^ that a couple of dollars a head was readily 
 paid for them, when, we believe, in the New- York 
 bird-markets they can be had for half that sum. 
 
THE MOCKING-BIRD. 121 
 
 But the poor birds were short-lived. A subse- 
 quent investment in a young alligator, of dimen- 
 sions suitable for a cigar-box, Vv'as so much more 
 " charming^'''' that the brilliant but woe-begone 
 looking paroquets died from exhausted admiration ! 
 Eagles are frequently seen, as also great fish-hawks 
 that are often mistaken for the former. This land 
 is to them one of unbounded resources, and they 
 wax fat, and lord it with keenest relish. 
 
 Innumerable smaller birds infest the woods, and 
 chant their grand oratorios at dawn, while their 
 inexplicable chatter fills up the day. But the 
 queens and glory of this tropical land, in bird- 
 music, are the somber-robed, bright-faced mock- 
 ing-birds, who for a moment halt in their aimless 
 ways, scattering glittering and delicious gems of 
 sonoj tln'ouMi all the woods. What silence ensues 
 in the vast company of choristers and imitators 
 when these Jenny Linds appear, eloquent with a 
 melody all their own ! It seems, while we listen, 
 as if this were " Paradise Regained," such are the 
 sights and sensations as we sail up and down this 
 upper river, so tropical and so unique. It is one 
 long dream of beauty, with choicest pictures of 
 Oriental luxury and repose. Here let some un- 
 
122 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 known artist come, with the hand of genius to 
 imitate these scenes, and his work shall ever rank 
 with the most favored, as it would be among the 
 most attractive in the land. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE UPPER ST. JOHN's 
 
 Lake Monroe. — Old Fort Mellon. — The Bac> Countiy. — Enter- 
 prise. — What we thought of it, and what w< bund it. — Its Fine 
 Hotel. — Abundance of Game. — A Fish St ^y. — Enterprise the 
 Place for Sporting-Men. — Lakes Jessup fend Harney. — Capt. 
 Brock's Hotel and Orange-Grove. — TXj Tvo Entei-prises. — In- 
 dian-River Country. — Tropical Fru a. - Climate at Enterprise. 
 
 LAKE MGl^UOE. 
 
 Our last chapter brought us to Lake Monroe, 
 which stands at the head of regular steamboat 
 navigation on the St. John's River. Entering this 
 handsome sheet of water, of about five miles in 
 diameter and nearly circular, we are able in clear 
 weather to at once discern its two principal points 
 of interest. The first is Mellonville, on the west- 
 ern shore, formerly the site of Fort Mellon, built 
 during the campaigns against the Indians. This 
 point was originally, however, a trading-post with 
 the natives, and quantities of furs were annually 
 brought here. The town itself is nothing worth 
 
 123 
 
124 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 naming, beyond a wharf, small warehouse, and an 
 humble dwelling combined. It looks desolate ; 
 and yet we see a full half-score of settlers from 
 the near interior, in waiting on the pier to obtain 
 such articles as they had severally ordered. We 
 were detained here a half-hour in discharmno; 
 freight, consisting of flour, meal, some little 
 machinery, implements of agriculture, and other 
 minor packages of store articles brought from be- 
 low. The country adjacent is little cultivated ; but 
 back some twenty miles and more it is of a much 
 better character, and has a prosperous settle- 
 ment of quite intelligent and industrious planters. 
 The soil here seems sandy, as it appears every- 
 where away from the hummock-lands. The mails 
 of " Uncle Samuel " are exchanged ; and the 
 steamer, veering round, steers straight across to 
 the eastern shore, and to the town of 
 
 ENTERPRISE. 
 
 A half-hour of steady work of the engines 
 brings us to its wharf, extending ten rods into the 
 lake. Our eyes surveyed the place a score of 
 times ere the gang-plank could be made ready; 
 and we were near having convulsions at the 
 
ENTERPEISE. 125 
 
 thouglit of what we had pictured it and the reality 
 before us. 
 
 A half-dozen buildings is the sum total of En- 
 terprise, about which so much is heard by travelers 
 on the river. A feeling of disappointment is in- 
 evitable ; notwithstanding the traveler soon accom- 
 modates himself to the fact of utter barrenness in a 
 country which has been for a century forgotten ; 
 3^et, that at the head of navigation, the termini of 
 steamships and travel, there should be found but 
 one Jiouse, is beyond all belief! This is, how- 
 ever, the case ; though a new dwelling was in 
 course of erection during our visit. The hotel, 
 the Brock House, the center and circumference 
 of this cifif, is also a disappointment ; but it is in 
 this case an agreeable one. From Jacksonville up 
 to Enterprise, no hotel equals this.* It is a genuine 
 Northern-looking hotel, such as you may see at 
 a watering-place on the seaboard, like, for instance, 
 the old " Watch Hill House " at Watch Hill, in 
 Rhode Island. It stands broadside to the lake, 
 one hundred and ten feet long, and two stories 
 and a half in heigh th, with a veranda its entire 
 front, broad and airy. The house is well painted, 
 and has attractive green blinds, and comfortable 
 
 * Complaints have reached us the last season, and we believe the re- 
 putation of this house has fallen off. 
 
126 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 accommodations for upward of fifty guests. It is 
 also well kept, by a gentleman from Maine, who 
 makes himself a polite and pleasant host. The 
 table during our stay was well supplied with meats 
 and fish. The night of our arrival the landlord set 
 before us beef-steak, ham and eggs, roast venison, 
 and fish. The venison had been cauo;ht that 
 morning ; and before sunset, within a mile of the 
 hotel, another buck was shot, a fine large one, off 
 which a large party breakfasted the next morning. 
 The woods are full of game, and the lake swarms 
 with a variety of good table-fish. Trout, perch, and 
 mullet are found in nearly all the lakes, while bass, 
 sheep's-head, and bream abound the entire length of 
 the river. Shad are taken in their season, as in 
 other rivers to which they have access. Probably 
 no river on the globe of equal size affords a greater 
 supply of food for man than this. The most of 
 our rivers are so dragged and hunted that fish are 
 scarce ; and it would seem only in fancy that we 
 could, within a four days' journey from the "Em- 
 pire City" of New York, find a river full of fish, 
 and as plentiful as though its discovery was but 
 yesterday, instead of its being probably the first 
 river entered on the continent by any European. 
 
ABUNDANCE OF WILD GAME. 127 
 
 Why, you may see tliem fairly dancing on the sur- 
 face of some of these lakes. Bartram, a hundred 
 years ago, tells a story, that, at Battle-Pass, he 
 witnessed a sig-ht which those who know this river 
 can readily credit. He was working his way up 
 stream, when, observing the bloody appearance of 
 the water, he hastened onward, and soon came to 
 a narrow pass, where he was wonder-stricken at 
 the sight that met his view. A vast swarm of fish 
 was crowding by this point : tliey moved rapidly, 
 yet the river was gorged and fairly dammed. On 
 either shore, and in the stream, were a score of 
 huge alligators, with distended jaws, crushing and 
 destroying the helpless creatures with an astonish- 
 ing rapidity. 
 
 The fish caught in the Lower St. John's will 
 average from one to forty pounds ; while in the 
 Upper River, from a half pound to fifteen is about 
 the averao-e weIo;ht. 
 
 Of wild fowl suitable for the table, ducks are 
 the most abundant. There are several varieties. 
 Almost the first thino; seen in comino; into the 
 river, at its mouth, are flocks of ducks ; and they 
 may be found all over the State, but especially on 
 this river, which seems their favorite home. Wild 
 
128 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 geese are common in the season for tliem, but yet 
 they go farther south as a rule. Indian-River 
 country, some thirty miles eastward, is more fre- 
 quented by them. Quails and partridges are often 
 seen ; but the hawks and other birds of prey, so 
 numerous here, keep them from increasing their 
 numbers to any great extent. 
 
 Enterprise is the paradise for sporting-men. 
 For invalids to discuss the respective merits of this 
 or that place is proper, but there is no question 
 where the huntsman or sporting-man should go. 
 This place is their true head-quarters : none other 
 equals or compares for a moment with it. Once 
 here, they have a central point from which they 
 can move at leisure, and return for repairs and 
 rest. If it be fishing, the lake is before them, and 
 they need not angle around half the day with a 
 " fly " and no fish. It may be all very well for 
 those who like it, to stand braced against a tree or 
 sit silent as death in a boat, perspiring at a nibble, 
 and catching nothing but a cold ; or possibly, if 
 very lucky, bringing home a half-pound trout or 
 two, scarce enough to smell of, much less to satisfy 
 a ravenous appetite. This is the usual modicum 
 of luck and result elsewhere, the Adirondacks not 
 
THE ORANGE-GROVE OF ENTERPRISE. 129 
 
 excepted. But, when we go fishing, we like to do 
 a good business, both for ourselves and friends ; 
 and here it can be done, for instead of a bag it is 
 your boat full. The glory and delight which 
 thrill the nerves of such fishermen is royal and 
 worth experiencing. 
 
 Lakes Jessup and Harney, above, are also well 
 stocked with fish of excellent quality, which are 
 easily caught by nets, hooks, and spears. A very 
 attractive sight at Enterprise is the orange-orchard 
 standing at the left of the wharf, and owned by 
 Capt. Brock, who is also proprietor of the hotel, 
 and, for that matter, of every thing else of any ac- 
 count at Enterprise, not excepting the steamboat 
 line which brings you and on which you have to 
 return.* This grove is a very handsome one, and 
 covers a couple of acres across the roadway from 
 the hotel. The trees are of fine size, and very 
 pretty in appearance. There was some fruit still 
 hanging, large and golden, but valueless, its juice 
 having dried away, though the exterior was fair 
 and plump-appearing. In the tops of the trees, 
 bl:ssoms could be seen at the time of our visit, 
 and another fall they will again be loaded. There 
 
 * There is now (1870) an opposition line from Jacksonville to Enter- 
 prise. The " Starlight" makes semi-weekly trips hctwccn those poiuts. 
 
 9 
 
130 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 are a few lemons in this grove, and also some of 
 the sour orange. These doubtless are left for 
 variety's sake ; though the lemons are as profitable 
 and useful as the orange, but not so commonly 
 grown. 
 
 Capt. Brock built and founded this new 
 " Enterprise," and ran his line of steamers, 
 determined to make it pay ; and he is now able to 
 realize the fruit of his persevering toil. The 
 past year the house has been crowded, the appli- 
 cants being double the number that could be 
 entertained. Old Enterprise is, as we have al- 
 ready remarked, about a mile above, on the lake- 
 shore. This was formerly the place ; but Brock, 
 having the steamers, had the power to establish 
 a successful rival. Old Enterprise is nevertheless 
 the place where Brock's hotel and orano-e-o-rove 
 
 J. O O 
 
 should be, as it is higher, and has from fifty to one 
 hundred acres of cleared lands in a condition for 
 cultivation ; whereas at Brock's Enterprise, beyond 
 his garden and orange -orchard, there is not one 
 acre of thoroughly cleared land that we observed. 
 Old Enterprise has an orange-grove too ; but it is 
 scattering and in no wise particularly attractive. 
 Dr. Stark, its occupant and owner, though a 
 
CLIMATE AT ENTERPRISE. 131 
 
 Southern sympathizer daring the war, as we 
 learned, is, nevertheless, a very courteous and 
 inteUio-ent gentleman. If a hotel were erected on 
 this old site, with bathing-rooms supplied with 
 water from the large spring just back of his 
 grounds, — of which we shall hereafter speak, — 
 it could not fail to take its share of the winter 
 travel. 
 
 Enterprise is the point at which passengers land 
 who are bound for New Smyrna, Musquito Inlet, 
 Hillsborough, or Indian River on the sea-coast, and 
 directly eastward, a score and a half of miles from 
 
 this place. 
 
 There the banana, fig, and pine -apple are seen, 
 and the coffee-plant grows wild and luxuriant. 
 You may revel in the delights of earth, and wish, 
 as De Leon did three hundred years before you, 
 for some fountain or fruit of which to taste, and 
 live for ever in the possession of youth, giving 
 beauty a second consideration entirely. 
 
 The climate at Enterprise is perceptibly milder 
 than at any point below. This is not greatly to be 
 wondered at, perhaps, since every hundred miles 
 south, when so near the tropics, makes a distin- 
 guishable difference, — far more marked than the 
 
132 
 
 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 same distance southward in the Northern States. 
 The winter here is not unhke in temperature the 
 month of May in New England. We find that 
 fires are comfortable and necessary evenings in 
 February at Enterprise, and they are also equally 
 necessary in June in the Connecticut Valley. 
 The health of people all over our country would 
 be much improved, and many cases of fevers pre- 
 vented, were small fires started in the evening, 
 during most of the spring and fall months. 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 CELEBKATED SPRINGS. 
 
 The Green Spring at Old Enterprise. — Its Great Depth. — Tropical 
 Scenes. — The Towering Pahn. — Silver Springs on the Ockla- 
 waha. — The Blue Spring near Lake Berresfoi'd. — Bartram's 
 Account of this Spring. — The Spring at Green Cove. 
 
 The springs tlirougliout Florida are numerous, 
 and many are quite remarkable. They form one 
 of the wonders of the State. 
 
 At Enterprise, every visitor seeks the famous 
 spring of this locality. It is nearly a mile south- 
 ward from the hotel, and we have the choice of 
 two ways by which it may be reached ; and they 
 are quite like the Irishman's roads, for, whichever 
 one you take, you will be likely to wish you had 
 taken the other. One is by the beach, where 
 little swails and sluices, emptying into the lake, 
 have to be leaped in wet weather ; the other is 
 back of the hotel, — a winding cart-path among the 
 low scrub palmettoes and tall long-leaved pines, 
 then through a clump of magnolias, gums, water- 
 
 133 
 
134 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 oaks, and sweet bays, with the towering palm 
 shootino; straio;ht into the air as an arrow for 
 ninety feet, capped by its globe of green. We pass 
 a wilderness of jungle and forest and vines and 
 wild flowers, without name and number. "The 
 air is soft and tropical ; and the scene is what we 
 might easily fancy a Brazilian forest to be, lack- 
 ing only in the flashing eye-balls of some crouching 
 animal, to light up the jungles by which our cir- 
 cuitous pathway leads." Turning suddenly aside, 
 across a clearing into the woods beyond, and we 
 stand at the spring. It is circular in form, and 
 nearly eighty feet in diameter ; and its surface is 
 as smooth and unrippling as if congealed. The 
 water is of a delicate green and quite transparent. 
 Its depth is said to be full an hundred feet. No 
 hving thing was seen in its waters, which are 
 sulphurous, though not markedly so. Its taste, 
 however, was not especially pleasant ; and we 
 should prefer good clear spring-water to it, for 
 purposes of health. It might serve a good use 
 for bathing ; but it is, in all respects, far inferior 
 to the healthful crystal spring at Green Cove, 
 which is employed by citizens and strangers for 
 every domestic use, and as a healthful tonic. This 
 
SILVER SPRING. 135 
 
 spring is not now used, and we observed no signs 
 of its having been by any one. It is simply a 
 curiosity, and is visited as such. An expert 
 swimmer might bathe in it, but none others, since 
 its shores are as deep as its center, and it is quite 
 forbidding in view of its depth and color. A 
 small outlet, six feet wide and as many inches in 
 depth, carries the wastage waters to the lake, a 
 third of a mile distant. 
 
 Our party grouped themselves for a few 
 moments, "lono; enouo;h to hano; this Oriental 
 scene in memory ;" then, gathering a few wild 
 branches as mementoes to our friends away on the 
 banks of the White Water and the Ohio, the 
 Hudson and the Delaware Rivers, returned, vid 
 Old Enterprise, to our hotel. 
 
 We have spoken in a preceding chapter of the 
 beautiful Silver Spring on the Ocklawaha River. 
 That is a great basin of surpassingly clear and 
 deep water. Springs of salt water, and springs 
 of mineral water, are not uncommon in various 
 sections of the State. They are all usually of a 
 tepid character, standing at about seventy-seven 
 degrees, we should judge, having frequently bathed 
 in them, although we never subjected any of them 
 
136 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 to tlie test of the tliermometer. These springs are 
 usually near the rivers or lakes, and occasionally 
 they have been discovered boiling up in the lake- 
 waters. Mr. Solon Robinson relates having passed 
 over one while sailing in a small boat along the 
 shores of Lake George, and gives currency to the 
 report of springs being found off the coast of St. 
 Augustine, which is not unlikely, when we con- 
 sider the peculiar character of the peninsular 
 formation. 
 
 Rio;ht in the middle of the St. John's River 
 up toward Lake Harney, there boils up a 
 tremendous spring, which makes a conspicuous 
 turbulence on its bosom, — enough to shake the 
 steamer ; and, in ordinary stages of the river, this 
 spring lifts its waters visibly above the surface. 
 The captain stated he had sounded it to a depth 
 of three hundred feet, and found no bottom ! 
 Lake Jessup, on its western shore, has several 
 large sulphur springs. This lake can not be 
 entered by a boat drawing over three feet of 
 water. It is some seventeen miles long by five 
 in width, with shallow waters generally. Its 
 shores are low and marshy, as a rule ; but here 
 and there are dry shell-banks on which the wild 
 
THE BLUE SPEING. 137 
 
 orange grows. Some miles to the west, how- 
 ever, the land is better, being higher and 
 liealthier. 
 
 One of the most famous springs in the State, 
 perhaps, is but a few miles north of Enterprise. It 
 is known as the Blue Spring; but among the inhabi- 
 tants, here, all springs are called blue springs, little 
 mattering what the real shade of color may hap- 
 pen to be. This spring is on the east side of the 
 river, near Lake Berresford, and empties into the 
 St. John's a half-mile from the steamboat landing. 
 It is perhaps the largest spring in the State : the 
 quantity of water which issues from it in an hour is 
 enormous. It forms a river of itself, one hundred 
 and fifty feet wide and six deep ; sufliciently large 
 to admit the passage of a considerable craft. The 
 water boils up out of the earth as though from a 
 boilino; caldron of four-score feet across. An 
 excursion party from Jacksonville tried to row a 
 boat into the center of this boiling kettle, in order 
 to take soundings, but "were foiled, after several 
 earnest efforts, in consequence of the violent mo- 
 tion of the elevated surface. 
 
 A trip to this spring is a pleasant and easy ex- 
 cursion with the little steamer " Ilattie." 
 
138 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 Witli a quaint account by Bartram of a spring 
 he observed, we shall close what we have to say 
 under this head. 
 
 He says, . . . "On my right, and all around 
 behind me, was a fruitful orange-grove, with palms 
 and magnolias interspersed ; in front, near my feet, 
 was the enchanting and amazing crystal fountain, 
 which incessantly threw up, from dark rocky cav- 
 erns below, tons of water every minute, forming a 
 basin capacious enough for large shallops to ride 
 in, and a creek of four or five feet depth of water, 
 and nearly twenty yards over, which meanders 
 six miles through green meadows, pouring its 
 limpid waters into the great Lake George, where 
 they seem to remain pure and unmixed. About 
 twenty yards from the upper edge of the basin, 
 and directly opposite to the mouth, or outlet, of the 
 creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where 
 the waters are thrown up in such abundance and 
 great force, as to jet and swell up two or three 
 feet above the common surface ; while sand and 
 small particles of shells are thrown up with the 
 waters near to the top, subside with the expanding 
 flood, and gently sink again, forming a large rim, 
 or funnel, round about the aperture, or mouth, of 
 
A STORY BY BAETEAM. 139 
 
 tlie fountain, wliicli is a vast perforation tlirougli a 
 bed of rocks, the ragged points of wliicli are 
 projected out on every side. . . . The waters 
 are so extremely clear as to be absolutely diaph- 
 anous as the ether ; the margin of the creek (?) is 
 shaded by a great variety of fruitful and flowering 
 shrubs and trees, the pendent golden orange dan- 
 cing on the surface of the waters, and the songs of 
 merry birds vibrating through all the trees. Below, 
 innumerable bands of fish are seen, some clothed 
 in the most brilliant colors ; the voracious crocodile, 
 stretched alono- at full leno;th like the trunk of a 
 tree ; the devouring gar-fish, troiit, all the varie- 
 ties of gilded bream, catfish, sting-ray, skate, and 
 flounder, spotted bass (trout), sheep's-head, and 
 drum, all in separate bands, and circling in peace- 
 ful evolutions with none of their usual signs of 
 enmity .... See whole companies of these fish 
 descend into the abyss ; they entirely disappear : 
 are they gone for ever ? . . . . Looking intently 
 to observe if they returned, when, lo ! they were 
 seen emerging from the depths, apparently at a 
 vast distance, as they at first seemed no bigger 
 than flies or minnows ; now gradually enlarging, 
 and rising rapidly, they ride forth with the elastic, 
 
140 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 expanding column of crystalline waters, and gently 
 move each to tlieir kindred tribes to re-form and 
 renew the sport. This scene seems unreal, since 
 it appears that you are at times able to almost 
 grasp the fish as they rise toward the surface, 
 when in fact they are thirty feet away." 
 
 Though we have spoken in a previous chapter 
 of the spring at Green Cove, yet to omit mention 
 of it here would be an injustice, not for any thing 
 remarkable about it as seen by the beholder, but 
 for its high value as a remedial agent. In this 
 particular, it excels all others with which we are 
 acquainted. Its water is pure and pleasant, and 
 has the credit of havinoj cured some invalids and 
 greatly benefited many others. Its depth is such 
 that any one may bathe in it without fear, and the 
 use of the water increases the appetite and 
 strengthens the system. Indeed, this is the only 
 spring with which we are familiar in this State 
 that has any reputation as a curative agent. 
 Beino; located within the villaixe of Green Cove on 
 tlie St. John's Kiver, it is accessible to those in 
 feeble health as well as the robust, and all may be 
 benefited by its use ; though, in this matter, it is 
 proper for the invalid to consult with his medical 
 
SPEING AT GREEN COVE. 141 
 
 adviser, since in some cases, doubtless, its use 
 would be injudicious. 
 
 Springs abound in all portions of the State, in 
 the western as well as the eastern section ; and 
 they are all of more or less interest as curiosities, 
 and will well repay the tourist. 
 
CHAPTEE X. 
 
 ALLIGATOK-SHOOTIXG ON THE UPPER ST. JOHN^S. 
 
 The Steamer " Hattie." — Sportsmen on Lake Harney and beyond.— 
 What they bagged. — The Grandfather of all the Alligators. — 
 Difficulty of killing them. — Their Display of Gymnastics. — The 
 Party camp for the Night. — A Thrilling Scene. — Our " John." 
 — A Wild Night of it. — The Morning Alligator Reveille, — Ee- 
 flections. 
 
 There is a small steamer, tlie little " Hattie," 
 which runs to accommodate hunting or pleasure 
 parties above Enterprise, and can make the run to 
 Lake Harney and back in a single day. Toodles 
 would have set an inestimable value on this 
 pocket-craft, as, indeed, do scores of people who 
 come to Lake Monroe. She can be chartered for 
 any length of time ; and, if there are a half-dozen 
 to go, it is not expensive, as the cost does not ex- 
 ceed the price of board at a first-class hotel. We 
 know of a hunting-party composed of New York- 
 ers and Baltimoreans, who proceeded to Lake 
 Harney, and beyond, as far as it was possible with 
 
 142 
 
ALLIGATOR SHOOTING. 143 
 
 safety to take the little steamer. All were well 
 equipped with arms, ammunition, and provisions. 
 Their brightest expectations were fully realized. 
 Game of all kinds was found in great abundance. 
 They shot twenty-seven deer and one hundred 
 and sixty-two alligators, not to mention any thing 
 of smaller game. They returned bronzed and 
 delighted, and with an increase of avoirdupoise. 
 All who come as high as Enterprise should come 
 to take a hunt, and try the lake-fishing. 
 
 Alligator shooting is among the finest of sports, 
 and besides is strange and pleasing to most visitors, 
 who, fresh from Northern snows and ice, take to 
 the fun with a rare relish. A bright day is 
 necessary : such was the one chosen, when, with a 
 small company, we set sail for the mouth of the 
 river on the south side of Lake Monroe. " The 
 Hattie " puffed vigorously across the lake, but, en- 
 tering the river, '' slowed," and quit her " wheez- 
 ing:" all assembled on deck, and, with rifles 
 plenty, we had not long to watch for the am- 
 phibious monsters. They are soon seen swimming 
 across our bows, or lying lazily on the shores as is 
 their habit ; when, crack, bang, and pop, go the 
 rifles, and an alligator flounders down from the 
 
144 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 shore into the water. Some times a half-dozen 
 bullets would strike the monster at about one 
 and the same time ; and the huge beast would 
 writhe in agonj, lashing the reed-grass with his 
 powerful tail, and lurch into the dark waters with 
 a despairing and desperate plunge. Again a lucky 
 or scientific shot back of the fore-arm would brino; 
 the scarlet tide, when with a sudden whirl upon his 
 back, and with uplifted, quivering limbs, he was 
 off to the land of shades without further ado. 
 These cases were valued, since it afforded an 
 opportunity to draw up to the shore, land, and A- 
 capitate the giant, bringing his head away, "liot 
 only as a trophy, but for the purpose of practicing 
 at our leisure a little dentistry on his teeth ; and 
 in time these became, in the hands of some 
 expert, a beautiful whistle, or, carved into various 
 forms, were prized as charms. 
 
 At first our shots were wild, owing to the 
 excitement : soon all became practiced, and could 
 aim the deadly missiles with rare exactness ; 
 yet comparatively few were killed outright, 
 though numbers were Avounded. This was 
 attributable to our finding the majority of them 
 in the water ; for, hearing us, they would slip off 
 
THE FATHER OF ALLIGATORS. 145 
 
 of the bank and float on tlie surface, when nothing 
 could be seen but their head just above the water. 
 It takes a kepii and practiced eye to detect an alhga- 
 tor, they so closely resemble a rotten log half sub- 
 merged and motionless. 
 
 If a ball enters their eye squarely, they are 
 finished; but to do this is difficult. A good 
 loud rap on their heads can be given them, how- 
 ever ; and the way the water flies wdien they are 
 thus hit and hurt is both amusino; and wonderful. 
 It is beaten into a perfect foam ere they plunge 
 from sight. One was a mighty fellow. He was 
 seen at a distance, lying on the marshy banks at 
 the bend of a river, and appeared the great grand- 
 father of all the alligators. Experience had taught 
 him it wasn't safe to wait for excursion parties, 
 and he began to move "early;" but our crack 
 marksman drew a bead on him, and at the vital 
 spot. Halting to take a final observation before 
 making a plunge, the sharp crack of the rifle, and 
 a dull thud for the echo, told the story. His delay 
 had proved fatal, and he went down to his grave 
 with a gorgeous display of gymnastics. Suddenly 
 throwing up his fore-arm, he rung down the cur- 
 tain and his own life at the same time. 
 
 10 
 
146 A WINTEE IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 The day passed rapidly by, and tlie party 
 decided to tie np for the night, and continue the 
 sport another day. Passing on to a dry shore, ^Ye 
 made our camp in a grove of the wild orange, 
 and under the towering palm. It was a lovely 
 place for our purpose. Those who preferred 
 remained on board, while full half of the 
 company pitched the fly-tent, and prepared a 
 faggot fire, wherewith to cook our fish-supper. 
 This was soon accomplished, and as soon disposed 
 of; for what will sharpen appetites better than a 
 day upon the water, full of excitement, frolic, and 
 fun ! A few sauntered back inland among the 
 maples and magnolias for game, and were not 
 long ill starting a flock of wild turkeys from 
 among the tall trees, where they were about going 
 to roost. A little management was required to 
 secure a good shot at the cock-turkey ; two of us 
 agreeing to fire at a given signal from the third, 
 and he to follow with his rifle if we missed. 
 The distance was considerable, and at quite an ele- 
 vation; but, at the word "Fire," the bouncing gob- 
 bler came to the ground, the balance of the flock 
 scaling away from our sight and reach. Shoulder- 
 ing our Thanksgiving-bird, we reached camp, and 
 
A MIDNIGHT ADYENTUEE IN CAMP. 147 
 
 were congratulated heartily by our companions. 
 Ere long tlie moon, full and clear, swung itself above 
 the tree-tops, and all joined in some stirring 
 melodies that woke the echoes of the woods and 
 surrounding shores. A few branches and leaves 
 from the palmetto served, with a blanket over- 
 spread, for our bed. 
 
 In the night we were all aroused by the hoot- 
 ing owls ; and such a din ! A dozen barking pups 
 would have been out-matched. " John " decided to 
 give them a salute with his double-barrelled gun, 
 and, rising to reach it, imagine his feelings, and 
 ours as well, for it was but a moment after his 
 discovery that he telegraphed^ by a vigorous kick, 
 the news to us. Not over ten feet away was a 
 good-sized and every way respectable-looking 
 "gaitor," paying his addresses to our proposed 
 breakfast, the turkey, which was hanging to a 
 low limb of an orange-tree close by. How long 
 he had been there we did not know ; or how long 
 it would have been ere he would have snapped up 
 our poor gobbler, or swallowed a pair of boots 
 with John's feet in them ! it would be difficult to 
 determine ; but that crocodile was hardly ex- 
 pecting such an emphatic greeting. Our rising 
 
148 A TVINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 had evidently checked his progress toward the 
 turkey ; for now his eyes were turned fully upon 
 us, as if unable to make out whether we were 
 friend or foe. His suspense was brief; a moment 
 fully undeceived him. Such a crash of minnie- 
 balls and buck-shot as landed in amonsr^his 
 horns " was totally unexpected. His manner 
 indicated as much ; for in a trice he performed the 
 " Grecian," and tilted endwise into the river, with 
 such a roar and splash of water as we never 
 heard before. The owls were silenced, and dis- 
 turbed no more our camp. We voted them 
 unanimous thanks ; and, placing a guard, tumbled 
 down into our nest. But slumber came not, 
 though the morning did, when we expeditiously 
 roasted and ate our turkey, and sailed away 
 down stream, givuig vengeful shots at the roaring 
 monsters, who were now heard in all directions 
 bellowing like bulls. This noise they frequently 
 make in the early morning of a warm day ; and, 
 to those first experiencing it, it strikes alarm : but 
 this soon passes away. 
 
 We steam on, and past what were, a hundred 
 years ago, plantations of indigo and cane, owned 
 and cultivated by the Spaniards ; past sites of 
 
EEFLECTIONS. 149 
 
 cities and vilWes of the aborimnal races, where 
 now the tall pine and bright-leaved magnolia and 
 sweet-bay flourish. Then past the pleasant 
 shores and the extending savannas, half sub- 
 merged, and dotted all over with sleeping islands ; 
 then by the quaint capes and headlands, all 
 glorified by the rising, cloudless sun, our thoughts 
 alternately enrapt by the gushing songs of the 
 morning birds, and the remembrance of the tide 
 of human life that swept the bosom of this river 
 centuries ago, where now none but a few curious 
 and idle visitors sail pensively over its waters. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE. 
 
 How to get there. — The "Way we went. — The Hon. Mrs. Yelverton. 
 — A Successful Experiment. — " Duroc " and " Fire-Fly." — The 
 Stage-Driver. — The Ferr3'nnan's Fire. — Across the St. Sebastian 
 Eiver. — Midnight and St. Augustine. — The Florida House. — 
 Quaint Appearance of the City. — The Coquina Eock. — Fort 
 Marion. — The Cathedral and Plaza. — The Minorcans. — Tropi- 
 cal Fruits. — A Hotel wanted. 
 
 Having returned to Picolata from the charming 
 scenes and wild adventures of the upper and the 
 incomparable river, we now, with a dozen of fellow- 
 travelers, turn our faces eastward toward the 
 ocean and to St. Augustine. There are two ways 
 of reaching this, the oldest city in America, and 
 the Mecca of all Florida tourists. One is by the 
 steamer " Henry Burden," from Jacksonville, 
 down the river and round the sea-coast, — a nm 
 of perhaps eight hours ; sometimes a smooth pas- 
 
 150 
 
THE ROUTE TO ST. AUGUSTINE. 151 
 
 sa<xe. and ao-ain a somewhat rough one. To those 
 who do not dishke a sea-voyage, this is a very 
 pleasant trip. The price of passage is four dol- 
 lars each way. Tri-weeHy trips are made, leav- 
 ing Jacksonville in the forenoon of one day, and 
 St. Augustine at about the same hour next day. 
 
 The other route is to take a river-boat, — and 
 they are to be had nearly every day, or every other 
 day, at Jacksonville, — and proceed up the river 
 to Picolata, then across the country eighteen miles 
 by stage-line. The fare this way is two dollars 
 on the steamer, and three dollars from Picolata by 
 stage. The fare by the outside line is reasonable, 
 since the steamer runs to accommodate that partic- 
 ular travel ; while by river-boats it ought not to 
 exceed one-half their present rates, as these boats 
 do not run on the river solely for this travel. 
 Then, again, the stage-fare is fully one-third in ex- 
 cess of paying-rates.* 
 
 * Since writing the above, we are informed that the St. John's Rail- 
 road is being built, and will run between St. Augustine and Tocoi, on 
 the river, forty miles above Jacksonville, in time to accommodate the 
 travel of the coming season. Of couse, this will then be the route 
 for travelers proceeding to St. Augustine, via Jacksonville, thence by 
 steamer to Tocoi, thence by rail across. 
 
152 A WIKTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 Picolata, as we have remarked in a preceding 
 chapter, is simply a settlement of one family — 
 nothing more. If the reader were to take passage 
 on the Pacific Railway, and get off at the last new 
 made and named station anywhere along its entire 
 length, he could not well be left more in the woods 
 than travelers are left at this toivn of Picolata. 
 But what of its history? Next perhaps to St. 
 Augustine itself, it was among the earliest founded 
 of all the Spanish settlements. Two hundred and 
 fifty years ago, there were more white people 
 stationed and trading here than we find to-day. 
 It grew to be in a hundred years, under the Span- 
 ish rule, a town of more than a hundred dwellings 
 and shops. It was the main artery of supply for 
 the up-country, and chief channel for the return 
 of all articles of export, including furs, indigo, 
 sugar, and fruit. Crossing over to St. Augustine, 
 these were sent in trading-vessels home to Spain. 
 The order of Franciscans erected here an impos- 
 ing church edifice ; and within its walls assembled 
 the devotees of Spain and the Pope, together with 
 the proselyted savage, still plumbed and decked in 
 his wild costume. But, of all this ancient civiliza- 
 tion, scarce a vestige remains : by savage wars and the 
 
OLD FOETIFICATIONS. 153 
 
 desolation and destruction of towns and missions 
 and plantations, together with the changes in gov- 
 ernment, the transformation has been made com- 
 plete ; and now the original wilderness every- 
 where covers the State, and as nearly primeval as 
 in the time of Adam. 
 
 Opposite Picolata, on the western shore, is a 
 mark of these olden times that has however 
 withstood the leveling influence of the past. It is 
 a great earthwork fort, with its sharp angles 
 smoothed and round, yet still evidencing its origi- 
 nal strength and power. Its walls must have been 
 twenty feet in heighth, and were constructed en- 
 tirely of the surrounding earth. It is now over- 
 grown with grand old oaks, deep rooted in its 
 walls, and the wild birds and beasts have made 
 here their home. 
 
 Those who have been beguiled into reading the 
 small volume on St. Augustine, said to have been 
 written by Mrs. Yelverton, will be doomed to a 
 bitter disappointment in the plain, and somewhat 
 unromantic and uninteresting stage-ride, which 
 she, in her volume, has made so marvelously 
 enchanting. She exhausts the vocabulary of 
 flowers and sentiment quite, in her florid delinea- 
 
154 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 tion of what the country is, or was. We found 
 this ride of eighteen miles one of the most disa- 
 greeable and miserable we ever made, and 
 through a tract of country entirely devoid of 
 unusual attractions. 
 
 After a protracted delay, the stage and horses 
 were ready ; and such Rozinantes as they were, 
 too, — just fit to be knocked in the head by a 
 windmill, and so starved-lookino; as to sucro-est 
 the thought that they were the very horses which 
 are said, after considerable experimenting, to have 
 been successfully taught to live without eating. 
 The drivers seemed a cross between the lazaroni 
 of Italy and the village loafer. Our party was 
 too large to be all carried in a single coach, and 
 an old rheumatic wagon, without seats or covering, 
 was tied up, and braced with sticks, for the 
 journey. The trunks served for seats ; and, thus 
 equipped, we set out upon our winding way. It 
 was five o'clock in the afternoon Avhen we started ; 
 and at half-past ten that night, we struck the 
 ferry, just outside the old walls of St. Augustine. 
 The reader can imagine the speed we came the 
 eighteen miles. The prospect bade fair at one 
 time for us to camp among the pines, along the 
 
THE STAGE-HIDE. 
 
 155 
 
 roadside. Our horses, " Duroc " and " Fire-fly," 
 were no ''Dexters." They had, as we have 
 observed, learned to hve without eating; but, 
 hading a wagon eighteen miles through the sand, 
 they had not calculated upon, in connection with 
 their abstemious habits. Their wind gave out ; 
 and, having no special knowledge of time or tune, 
 they got off irregularly, first ''Duroc," and then 
 "Fire-fly," shot a neck ahead. The lumbering 
 coach behind us fared no better. Their four 
 horses were reduced to three, one having been 
 turned out to grass, we were about to say, but 
 that would be an imposition on the dumb beast, 
 and we have the fear of Bergh before our eyes, — 
 it was out to sand, Spanish bayonets and pine- 
 trees. For our part, we should have preferred 
 the sand, of the three, as that did appear white 
 and almost palatable, even to ourselves ; for we 
 had tasted nothing since noon, and it was fast 
 approaching midnight, to say nothing of the 
 appetizing effects of our eighteen-mile ride in a 
 lumber-wagon with trunks for seats! In our 
 younger days we have read of the lonely traveler 
 on the desert, who afar off descried a faint hght 
 that cheered him on, and brought him safely to 
 
156 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 shelter and to rest. We think all had a lively 
 sense of appreciation of this traveler's gratitude, 
 when we hailed the light of the ferryman's fire 
 burning on the roadside in front of his cabin. 
 Even the poor jaded horses took courage, and 
 absolutely dashed forward at an unaccountable 
 rate. Across the St. Sebastian E-iver, on the 
 rope-ferry, and a rapid drive through the dark 
 and narrow streets, and we were ushered into the 
 Florida House, tired, and hungry, and battered. 
 A plain, comfortable, clean room would have 
 been a luxury : it was what we had hoped for, a 
 place to lay our bones for a refreshing sleep ; but 
 this was not on the programme. We were told 
 the house was filled, and the town crowded, but 
 we could have a room. Dispatching a hurried 
 meal, we were shown through the house and 
 across the yard, np a rickety pair of stairs, to a 
 filthy room over the dirty kitchen, the former 
 "negro quarters," and with a stinking black lamp, 
 that had been innocent of soap and water since it 
 fell into its proprietor's possession. Left here in 
 this indecent room, with a flavor of onions and 
 stews from below, and a sickening odor of bugs 
 above, our first impressions of St. Augustine Avere 
 
A DIRTY HOTEL. 157 
 
 likely to have a rather biased and unpleasant col- 
 oring. Determined not to be considered a growler, 
 and feeling too stupid to become properly enraged, 
 we concluded to stay in that room, and we did. 
 
 A comfortable breakfast improved our condi- 
 tion ; and, not wishing to cultivate the further 
 acquaintance of the lazy and incompetent young 
 man who was the only landlord we saw, we left 
 for private lodgings.* 
 
 We have in the historical review of Florida, in 
 the earlier chapters, given a comparatively full and 
 accurate account of the settlement and history of 
 this ancient town. To these chapters the reader 
 is referred for historical details. More than half 
 a century prior to the landing of the Plymouth 
 colony, this was a town of considerable reputation, 
 and long before 1620 was a fortified stronghold, 
 challenging the stoutest navies on the globe. 
 
 The appearance of St. Augustine to the visitor 
 is as quaint and peculiar as its history is bloody and 
 remarkable. Nothing like it is seen in this coun- 
 try ; and, having been built by a people so entirely 
 different in manners and customs from our own, it 
 has been surrounded with an interest not shared 
 by any oriier city in the land. 
 
 * This refers to the season of 18G8-9, since which the house has beer 
 in other hands and has a fair reputation. Sco note pa^e 169. 
 
158 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 For a sketcli of this old city, we prefer to give 
 that written by Rev. H. Clay Trumbull, in " The 
 Springfield Republican," though we can hardly 
 share all his sentiments regarding this antiquated 
 and dilapidated town. 
 
 " Its principal building material is a unique 
 conglomerate of fine shells and sand, known as 
 coquina rock, found in large quantities on Anas- 
 tasia Island, at the entrance of the harbor, and 
 which is easily cut in blocks to be laid in courses, 
 and perhaps covered over with stucco. The 
 streets are quite narrow ; one, which is nearly a 
 mile long, being but fifteen feet wide, and that on 
 which a principal hotel stands being but twelve 
 feet, while the widest of all is but twenty-five 
 feet. An advantage of these narrow streets in 
 this warm climate is, that they give shade, and 
 increase the draft of air through them as through 
 a flue. Indeed, some of the streets seem almost 
 like a flue, rather than an open way ; for many 
 of the houses, with high roof and dormer win- 
 dows, have hanging balconies along their second 
 story, which seem almost to touch each otlier 
 over the narrow street ; and the families sitting 
 in these of a warm evening can chat confidential- 
 
t?J 
 H5 
 
 — \ 
 
ST. AUGUSTINE. 159 
 
 ly, or even shake hands with their over-the-way 
 neighbors. 
 
 " The street walls of the houses are frequently 
 extended in front of the side garden, — the house 
 roof, and perhaps a side balcony, covering this 
 extension ; or the houses are built around un- 
 covered courts, so that, passing through the main 
 door of a building, you find yourself still in the 
 open air, instead of within the dwelling. These 
 high and solid garden walls are quite common 
 along the principal streets; and an occasional 
 latticed door gives you a peep into the attractive 
 area beyond the massive structure, with perhaps a 
 show of huge stone arches, or of a winding stair- 
 case between heavy stone columns, or of a profu- 
 sion of tropical vegetation in the winter garden, 
 bringing to mind the stories in poem and romance 
 of the loves of Spanish damsels, and of stolen 
 interviews at the garden gate, or elopements by 
 means of the false key or the bribed porter. The 
 principal streets were formerly well paved or 
 floored with shell concrete, portions of which are 
 still to be seen above the shifting sand ; and this 
 flooring was so carefully swept, that the dark-eyed 
 maidens of old Castile, who then led in society 
 
160 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 here, could pass and repass without soihng their 
 satin shppers. No rumbhng wheels were per- 
 mitted to crusli the firm road-bed, or to whirl the 
 dust into the airy verandas, where, in undis- 
 turbed repose, sat the indolent Spanish dons and 
 dames. 
 
 " Built as a military town, the city was formerly 
 walled across its northern end ; which sufficiently 
 protected it, as it stands on a peninsula nearly 
 surrounded by the St. Sebastian River and St. 
 Augustine Bay. The gateway of the old wall 
 still stands, and is quite an imposing ruin, with 
 ornamented lofty towers and loopholed sentry- 
 boxes. The ditch before the old wall (or possi- 
 bly it was a stockade, except at the gateways) is 
 clearly marked, and even yet partially filled at 
 high tides. It runs from shore to shore, and was 
 evidently broad and deep. The old fort, once 
 called San Juan, then St. Marco, but now known as 
 Fort Marion, is a curiosity. It stands on the sea- 
 front, at the upper end of the town, the wall or 
 stockade formerly running from it to the gateway, 
 and west to the river. Its material is the inevita- 
 ble coquina rock. It was a hundred years in 
 building. While owned by the British, it was said 
 
FORT MAEION". 161 
 
 to be tlie " prettiest fort in the king's dominions." 
 Its castellated battlements ; its formidable bastions, 
 with their frowning guns ; its lofty and imposing 
 sally-port, surrounded by the royal Spanish arms ; 
 its portcullis, moat, drawbridge ; its circular and 
 ornate sentry-boxes at each principal parapet-angle, 
 its commanding look-out tower ; and its stained and 
 moss-grown massive walls, — impress the external 
 observer as a relic of the distant past ; while a 
 ramble through its heavy casemates ; its crumbling 
 Romish chapel, with elaborate portico and inner 
 altar and holy-water niches ; its dark passages, 
 gloomy vaults, and more recently discovered 
 dungeons, — brings you to ready credence of its 
 many traditions of inquisitorial tortures, of decay- 
 ing skeletons found in the latest-opened chambers 
 chained to the rusty ringbolts, and of alleged 
 subterranean passages to the neighboring convent. 
 " These stories lose none of their force by being 
 recited in the fitful light of the dim lamp of your 
 military guide, as you follow him into the damp 
 and noisome recesses to the echo of your own foot- 
 fall or the s^ratino; lock and creakin^i; hino;e of the 
 slow-swinging ancient doors. Many a dark tally- 
 list on the moldcring walls, or a rudely-executed 
 11 
 
162 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 sketch, shows how the dragging days were noted 
 or employed by weary prisoners of long ago ; and 
 the narrow loopholes are shown through which the 
 tAVO Seminole chiefs attempted their escape, one 
 making it good, and the other sticking fast in the 
 crevice until he was rescued with barely his life 
 remaining. At the time of Gen. Oglethorpe's 
 attack on St. Augustine, the old fort, or castle as 
 it was then called, stood a bombardment of thirty- 
 eight days from batteries erected on Anastasia 
 Island. But the injury to the fort was only slight ; 
 for the spongy walls of coquina received and im- 
 bedded the heavy shot, as would the embankment 
 of a modern earthwork. The marks left by the 
 shot are plainly seen to-day. But time is at length 
 doing its work with the old fort. Its walls are 
 showing huge fissures, and on recent inspection it 
 was declared nnfit for further defensive service. 
 
 " In the buildino;s of the town are some remains 
 of elegance, as well as much of antiquity. The 
 cathedral is unique, witli its belfry in the form of 
 a section of a bell-shaped pyramid, its chime of 
 four bells in separate niches, and its clock, together 
 forming a cross. The oldest of these bells is 
 marked 1682. The old convent of St. Mary's is 
 
ST. AUGUSTINE. 163 
 
 a suggestive relic of the days of papal rule. The 
 new convent is a tasteful building of the ancient 
 coquina. The United-States barracks, recently- 
 remodeled and improved, are said to have been 
 built as a convent or monastery. The old govern- 
 ment house, or palace, is now in use as the post- 
 office and United-States court-rooms. At its rear 
 is a well-preserved relic of what seems to have 
 been a fortification to protect the town from an 
 over-the-river or inland attack. An older house 
 than this, formerly occupied by the attorney-gen- 
 eral, was pulled down a few years ago. Its ruins 
 are still a curiosity, and are called (though incor- 
 rectly) the governor's house. 
 
 " The ' Plaza de la Constitution ' is a fine pub- 
 lic square in the center of the town, on which 
 stand the ancient markets, and which is faced by 
 the cathedral, the old palace, the convent, a mod- 
 ern Episcopal church, and other fine structures. 
 In the center of the plaza stands a monument 
 erected in honor of the Spanish Liberal Constitu- 
 tion. When the Constitution was abolished, these 
 monuments in all dominions of the crown were to 
 be destroyed ; but a compromise was effected on 
 this by the removal of the inscribed tablets. On 
 
164 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 the cession of Florida to the United States, the 
 long-concealed tablets were brought from their 
 hiding-places, and re-inserted in the monument. 
 On this plaza were burned effigies of John Han- 
 cock and Samuel Adams, earlj in our Eevolution, 
 while the British held Florida. 
 
 " The old Huguenot burying-ground is a spot of 
 much interest ; so is the military burying-ground 
 where rest the remains of those who fell near here 
 during the prolonged Seminole war. Under three 
 pyramids of coquina, stuccoed and whitened, are 
 the ashes of Major Dade and one hundred and 
 seven men of his command, who were massacred 
 by Osceola and his band. A fine sea-wall of 
 nearly a mile in length, built of coquina with a 
 coping of granite, protects the entire ocean front 
 of the city, and furnishes a delightful promenade 
 of a moonlight evening. In full view of this is 
 the old light-house on Anastasia Island, built more 
 than a century ago, and now surmounted with a 
 fine revolving lantern. 
 
 " The street names, Cuna, St. Hypolita, Tolo- 
 mato, St. George's and the like, have an ancient 
 and a foreign smack about them ; while the family 
 names, such as Dumas, Fatio, Hernandez, Oli- 
 
THE MINOECANS. 165 
 
 verez, Alveres, Monardi, Segui, Andrea, Sanchez, 
 Medices, and Bravo, mark it as any thing but 
 American in its origin. Some of the Roman- 
 Cathohc customs of carnival and evening serenades 
 before Easter are still kept up by the Minorcan 
 population." 
 
 A word as to these people, who constitute no in- 
 considerable portion of the present population of 
 St. Augustine. While Florida was in possession 
 of the English, a Dr. Turnbull went to Greece, 
 and received permission to transport such families 
 as choose to go to Florida. Obtaining a small 
 number, not enough for his proposed colony, he 
 halted at the islands of Corsica and Minorca in 
 the Mediterranean, where over a thousand joined 
 his company. They landed just inside of Mus- 
 quito Inlet, at New Smyrna, some seventy-five 
 miles south of St. Augustine. Turnbull soon be- 
 came imperious, and by the aid of a few immediate 
 friends reduced these patient, hard-working people 
 to a state of slavery, assigning them tasks under 
 overseers, and treating them in the most shameful 
 manner. His promises of lands and creature 
 comforts, made at the time of their joining his 
 expedition, were disregarded, and with acquired 
 
166 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 wealth came added austerity and hardships for 
 these now dependent people. Thus for nine years 
 they were in bondage, when, stung to resistance, 
 they assembled clandestinely, and marched in a 
 body to St. Augustine, where they were kindly 
 received, and allowed to remain. They form a 
 very quiet class, attentive to their own affairs, and 
 never meddling w^ith their neighbors. They are 
 intelligent and industrious, and some have acquired 
 considerable property. 
 
 There are a few fine residences in St. Augus- 
 tine ; and these, with their ample surroundings and 
 beautiful gardens, give a heightened interest to the 
 place. Senator Gilbert has a summer residence 
 here, the first as you enter the town, by the bridge, 
 on the right; then Buckingham Smith's, nearly 
 opposite, and Dr. Bronson's on the plaza, with 
 others, are beautiful homes. A profusion of tropi- 
 cal plants and shrubs and trees ornament their 
 grounds. Here the orange flourishes, and is 
 abundant and delicious : several fine groves invite 
 the visitor's inspection. The fig and date and 
 palm and banana are all seen here, as also the lime 
 and lemon, which grow to a great size, and the 
 sweet and the wild olive ; the citron, the guava 
 
ST. AUGUSTINE. 167 
 
 (from which a delicious jelly is made), and the 
 pomegranate, are all indigenous. This is the home 
 of the grape, and peaches luxuriate in this climate, 
 as likewise the Japan plum. 
 
 Besides the gardens spoken of, we see few flow- 
 ers ; and this is what quite astonishes us in this 
 "land of flowers," where they grow so easily, and 
 with so little care that there seems no excuse why 
 all the gardens should not have these simple yet 
 beautiful adornings. 
 
 For many years the town has been at a .stand 
 still, and property at a low figure. Good titles 
 can with difficulty be obtained ; and this is now the 
 great drawback to the improvement of the place, 
 though within a few years Northern people have 
 been coming in and taking such titles as were 
 offered. One gentleman, Mr. Howard, from New 
 York, has within a year past invested near fifty 
 thousand dollars in real estate in the city, 
 which is bemnnino; to feel the effects of this health- 
 ful influx, property having already risen to • four- 
 fold its value five years ago, and still not high. 
 The residence of Senator Gilbert, before alluded 
 to, was bought by him at the close of the war, as 
 we are informed, for about eight thousand dollars, 
 
168 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 and we judge worth forty now. This place has 
 several acres of ground in it. 
 
 There is one thing the town lacks, and that is, 
 a comfortable hotel. This it has not at present, 
 though a more splendid opportunity never seemed 
 to present itself. Hundreds visit this city during 
 the season, and other hundreds are kept from 
 coming in consequence of this lack. Our own 
 experience attests the great want. There are 
 three hotels here, so called; but a respectable 
 mechanic's and clerk's boarding-house at the North 
 is, in most respects, their superior. The Florida 
 House — well, it don't deserve either patronage 
 or mention, except that it is now for sale ; the 
 owners, not unlikely, having become themselves 
 disgusted with it. The place for strangers is the 
 private boarding-house, of which there are, luckily, 
 quite a number ; and they seem so well patronized, 
 that, to secure accommodations for any thing of a 
 party, it is needful to make application a week be- 
 fore your arrival. Mrs. Abbott's, Mrs. Gardner's, 
 Madam Fatio's, and Mrs. Dummet's are among 
 the best known, and are all pleasant homes, and 
 furnish excellent accommodations, at about half 
 the price of the hotels. There are a half-dozen 
 
A HOTEL WANTED. 169 
 
 other private families, whose names do not so 
 readily occur to us, but who are well known to 
 the stage-lines, where visitors are quietly pro- 
 vided for and made comfortable. 
 
 But, as we said, the great need is a hotel, not 
 elegant nor expensive, but convenient in location 
 and arrangement, where the invalid and tourist 
 may find a home. The season commences early in 
 November, and ends in May, — full seven months 
 in which to reap a harvest ; and some remain the 
 year round, finding the climate here less trying in 
 summer than at the North. Every third man you 
 meet from the North is arranging to build a hotel ; 
 but since they do not grow of a night, like Jonah's 
 gourd, why, St. Augustine will have to wait till 
 one is built in the usual way.* If the city wishes 
 to become prosperous, and her citizens to accumu- 
 late of this world's stores, and to secure the annual 
 
 ♦ St. Augiietine now (1870) boasts of her long-needed hotel. Mr. F. 
 H. Palmer, un enterprising gentleman Irom tine North, seeing the city's 
 great want, determined on supplying it, and at once erected, in company 
 with Oapt. E. E. Vaill, a splendid edilice fronting on the Plaza, and 
 ntar the Bay. It has accommodations for about two hundred guests, 
 &nd is in all respects a first-class house, and in view of it, we congratu- 
 late both the public and the proprietors. Tlie citizens of St. Augustine 
 have, in recognition of Mr. Palmer's enttn-prise and sagacity, elected 
 him to the Mayoralty of the town— an honor well meriied. A noble 
 free-school, just instituted under the generous patronage of a distin- 
 guiahcd citizen and lady of the town, is in successful operation. 
 
170 A WINTER IN TLOEIDA. 
 
 influx of visitors, a new hotel is the first stepping- 
 stone, and can not be lost sight of. The people of 
 the place could afford to levy a tax for its erection, 
 rather than it should go undone. This being ac- 
 complished, with a railway from the city to Pico- 
 lata, which was once graded, the tide of travel will 
 be greatly increased.* 
 
 The longer one remains in this antique town, 
 the more he is attached to it : at least, this was 
 our experience. It improves on acquaintance. 
 The plaza, or public square, affords a pleasant 
 retreat from the sand, which everywhere else 
 covers the place. Here are shade-trees, and the 
 firm green turf and benches, whereon the visitor 
 may lounge, and idle away the hours. At the foot 
 of the square, which fronts on the bay, is the 
 market-house, so entirely different from those else- 
 where seen ; being here neat, airy, and attractive. 
 It consists of a roof supported by brick pillars, a 
 half-dozen on either side, with a floor of the same 
 material, and is altogether unique in appearance. 
 
 The military band, on pleasant evenings, has 
 
 * Since penning the above, we have been informed that the work of 
 grading and track-laying on this proposed raiU-oad has commencgd with 
 a prospect of its being finished this year. Its terminus, on the St. John's, 
 is Tocoi. 
 
A PLEASANT DEIVE. 171 
 
 been accustomed to assemble on this square, and 
 discourse the national airs and other melodies, to 
 the great delight of the people. This source of 
 pleasure and amusement has ended, we regret to 
 say, in consequence of a recent act of Congress, 
 consolidating regiments, and reducing the number 
 of military bands in the service. 
 
 The number of strangers here greatly exceeded 
 our expectations, and thronged in every street 
 and public place. The fashionable belle of New- 
 port and Saratoga, and the pale, thoughtful, and 
 furloughed clergyman of New England, were at 
 all points encountered. The meeting of friends 
 whom we had not seen for years, and others 
 whom we had never met, but yet could call our 
 name, seemed strange and quite a dream. 
 
 Our visit being ended, and a few photographs 
 secured of points of interest as mementoes, togeth- 
 er with a cane of the pomegranate, presented by a 
 friend, which he had cut from his garden, we com- 
 menced our journey back over the road we came, 
 to Picolata. It was a bright April morning ; and 
 as we sped out of the city and over the St. 
 Sebastian River, through the tliickets, and into the 
 piny woods, a pang was felt at parting from the 
 
172 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 old city and our new-made friends. We had now 
 the day before us, with new horses, a hghter 
 carriage, and a gayer company ; and what before 
 was a tedious, wearing ride, was now made a 
 pleasing journey of three hours, though among 
 the inevitable pines, only here and there broken 
 with clumps of clustering vines and overarching 
 branches, whose friendly presence was owing to 
 swampy places by which the roadway led. 
 
 At Picolata we again hailed the river, where a 
 steamer was in waiting to bear us on our journey. 
 
 ^^Xms^^ 
 
CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 THE CLIMATE. 
 
 Influx of Visitors. — Who are benefited. — Necessity of RecreatioE. ->- 
 Cool Nights. — Thermometer ranges. — Earliest Frosts. — Steadi» 
 ness of Climate. — The Trade-Winds. — The Time to visit Florida. 
 — Statistics. — General Health of the People. — Care to be exer- 
 cised. 
 
 The chief interest, perhaps, that the State of 
 Florida possesses for the people of the North, is 
 its delightful climate, and the reputed beneficial 
 effects til ere of on the health of certain classes 
 of invalids. 
 
 Its location is the most southern of any portion 
 of the United States, and is the most tropical in 
 character. Reaching almost to the tropical zone, 
 and extending up to the thirty-first degree of 
 latitude, its entire coast-lines are bathed by the 
 warm waters of the surrounding seas ; wdiile the 
 gentle trade-winds cool and purify its atmosphere, 
 making the peninsula, as a place of residence, 
 both healthful and dclightfuL 
 
 173 
 
174 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 Invalids have long sought this portion of the 
 Union ; and its general reputation has steadily- 
 increased, till now scores and hundreds annually 
 migrate to some point in the State, as their predi- 
 lections seem to favor ; but as a rule a majority 
 of them remain upon the St. John's River and its 
 tributaries, or else upon the Atlantic coast at St. 
 Augustine and the Indian-river country, which 
 is an extensive inlet running very near and quite 
 parallel to the seacoast at the central portion. 
 The story was everywhere current along the 
 river, that full fifty thousand people had, this 
 last season, visited Florida. This, of course, 
 included all classes : but we can scarce credit so 
 large a statement ; and if we cut it down one-half, 
 then the statement may be taken with some 
 allowance for interested motives. There is no 
 denying, however, that great numbers have 
 visited the State within the winter 1868 and '69. 
 The chief hotel in Charleston, S. C, the 
 Charleston House, was kept crowded to its 
 utmost capacity during the winter by this Florida 
 travel. It may not be too much to say, that nine- 
 tenths of all the arrivals at that house were on 
 their way to or from that State. We mention 
 
OVER-WOEKED PEOPLE. 175 
 
 tills as indicative of the growing and already- 
 great importance of the question as to the effects 
 of the cHmate upon invahds and those who seek 
 rest and recuperation from the steady and exact- 
 ing demands of business. There is needed among 
 those who fill the various professions more of rest 
 and play than they get. 
 
 While we write, an eminent gentleman con- 
 nected with one of the chief journals of the 
 metropolis has been suddenly snatched away, in 
 the full meridian of life, from over brain-work. 
 To say that his was an impaired constitution 
 would not be warranted, since he had a perfect 
 physical organization, and, mentally, was as well 
 balanced as any man we ever knew. Mr. Ray- 
 mond possessed an intellect of the very highest 
 order, and practical talents exceeded by but few 
 in the history of our leading men, together with a 
 capacity for steady mental exertion beyond all 
 others ; and yet this noble man fell a victim to 
 over-work. His health was indeed so perfect as 
 not to break, as in most cases would be the result 
 of such intense application, and thus sound a 
 warnino;. It is this over-worked class, as well as 
 the invahd, who need to go to Florida. For the 
 
176 A wmTEB, m FLOEIDA. 
 
 former, it is just the place in wMcli to spend a 
 winter : there is no doubt in our minds of the 
 benefit they would derive by a few month's 
 residence in that climate. Then there are the 
 weak and nervous, — those whom care and anxiety 
 have broken do^vn, and who now need, above all 
 things, a change of scene, and a quiet life away 
 from their former surroundino-s. With a new 
 diet and a dozing climate, they will rapidly re- 
 cover : these, therefore, need not hesitate to pack 
 their trunks and start for Florida. We know of 
 no place equal to it for persons thus afflicted: 
 all improve under the influence of this warm and 
 genial climate, where a comparatively even temper- 
 ature is maintained, and where the rule is cool 
 nights, in which sleep, the sweet restorer, comes 
 with so many blessings to the fevered and fretful 
 invalid, and the over-worked. No physician is so 
 skillful, or remedy so marvelous in restorative pow- 
 er, as sleep. This the resident of Florida may 
 more easily obtain than in any other climate of 
 which we have any knowledge. The winters are 
 not so cold as to freeze during the night, or to 
 necessitate artificial, over-heated air in the dwell- 
 ings, rendered often quite impure by this furnace- 
 
THE EQUABILITY OF CLIMATE. 177 
 
 system so general in the North during the cold 
 season ; nor are the summers so sultry and heated 
 as to deprive you of rest, as is the case in the 
 severest hot weather in nearly every other portion 
 of the country. The thermometer never settles 
 as low, or rises as high, as at any point between 
 this State and Canada. The lowest point reached 
 in winter is seldom below thirty degrees, while in 
 midsummer it rarely exceeds ninety-five degrees ; 
 the average being, for the three summer months, 
 about eighty degrees. In New York, Boston, 
 or Montreal, every summer carries the thermom- 
 eter to a greater height. The earliest frost 
 recorded occurred on the 27th October, in 1857 ; 
 and the latest frost was in February (the 14th), 
 1859. Severe frosts usually occur in January, 
 when ice is formed in pools of water or buckets, 
 if left exposed. Since 1835, no very destructive 
 periods of cold weather have been experienced ; 
 then it was cold. People who were living in the 
 State at that time speak of it as a severe cold 
 snap, reminding them of Northern latitudes. The 
 vines and shrubs and orange-trees, with many 
 other kinds of trees, were quite annihilated ; and 
 what are now seen have been either grown from 
 
 12 
 
178 A WIKTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 the seed, or are sprouts from the old stumps of 
 the frost-killed trees. 
 
 It is the severe and sudden changes in tempera- 
 ture at the North that do the injury to enfeebled 
 constitutions. One day in winter it is quite mild 
 and pleasant ; while the next morning it is so 
 dreadfully cold, that the going out of doors is a 
 trial to the able-bodied, and a severe shock to 
 those lacking in vitality. The spring is even 
 worse than the winter ; for while the latter, 
 though cold, has a dry atmosphere for the most 
 part, the former is piercing, cold, and wet, and 
 miserably coquetting, with all degrees of tempera- 
 ture in a single day. Spring has in fact got to be, 
 if, indeed, it has not always been considered in 
 most of the Northern States, worse for all kinds of 
 invalids than any other season of the year; and 
 where the east winds prevail at this season, the 
 mortality list exceeds, for March, April, and May, 
 that of all the balance of the year. An escape 
 from these months to a more equable climate is, to 
 the invalid afflicted with pulmonary difficulties, a 
 vital one. 
 
 A continuous, steady cold, dry climate, or an 
 even warm one is the most to be desired for a 
 
QUESTIONS TO BE SETTLED. 179 
 
 majority of the suifering and afflicted of our race. 
 Florida and Minnesota are the two points which 
 most nearly represent these conditions. They 
 have been frequently contrasted, and, like every 
 other subject, each has its special advocates. We 
 shall not even pretend to decide between them, 
 for undoubtedly both are beneficial as a re- 
 sort; but to determine which of the two is the 
 better adapted to benefit certain cases is beyond 
 possibility, since they differ in many particulars : 
 that is for the family physician to decide, who 
 should know the constitution and habits of his 
 patient, and whose counsel should always be 
 weighed in all matters of this kind. Only gen- 
 eral hints can be given, and each is to deter- 
 mine for himself between the one and the other, 
 or whether remaining quietly at home may not 
 be best. When patients are so debilitated as 
 to make traveling a trial and a burthen, they 
 should remain at home, where their nearest 
 friends may watch and tend them ; but in the 
 incipient stages of tubercular formation, with a 
 judicious change of residence and a nutritious 
 diet, coupled witli great care, the disease may be 
 arrested, especially if resort is had to gentle exer* 
 
180 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 cise in the open air. Northern latitudes admit 
 of exposure to the weather only during the sum- 
 mer season, and herein lies the great advantage 
 of a residence in Florida. We met at St. Auo-us- 
 tine a lady from Syracuse, afflicted with pulmo- 
 nary disease : we should judge it was constitu- 
 tional in her case. She stated she had been 
 unable to go out of doors during the cold and wet 
 weather of the preceding winter, at her home, 
 but had not failed to walk out daily (except it 
 was raining) during the whole winter in Florida. 
 She had at first, in coming into the State, spent 
 several weeks on the St. John's River, and then 
 took up her residence at St. Augustine. This 
 was undoubtedly a very judicious plan ; for the 
 climate of the river differs materially from that of 
 St. Augustine, on the seacoast. The former is 
 milder and more gentle ; and the patient suffering 
 with disease of the luno's would do well to remain 
 on the river for a while, and then the climate of 
 St. Augustine, with its sea-breeze acting as a mild 
 tonic, braces up the system. 
 
 The whole peninsula is in the range of the 
 trade-winds, and is swept by them daily, ren- 
 dering it as cool and pleasant as one could ask. 
 
WHEN TO GO. 181 
 
 Sufferers from nervous prostration and general 
 debility need not delay their visit to St. Augus- 
 tine for any reason above given, since they would 
 probably experience as great benefit at the outset 
 as at any subsequent period of their sojourn. 
 
 People usually do not go to Florida before early 
 in November, though they might leave home at an 
 earlier date, making tarries on their way ; but, if 
 they reach the State by that time, they will not 
 have gone wrong. They can remain until the 
 first of May, when it is safe to return to the 
 Northern States. 
 
 We speak in reference to invalids, of course. 
 Pleasure-seekers, or those in health, may visit 
 Florida, and the next week take a sleigh-ride 
 among the hills of New England with impunity, 
 perhaps. There are those from the North, both 
 invalids and others, who make Florida their home 
 the year round ; and they speak in the very highest 
 praise of the climate during the summer, declaring 
 they do not suffer with the heat as much as they 
 formerly did at home, and that the benefit derived 
 from a residence is increased by remaining. This 
 may be true in some cases, whereas it might be too 
 debihtating in others ; not from the great rise in 
 
182 A WINTEB IN FLORIDA. 
 
 the thermometer, but from the long continuation of 
 hot weather. It commences to be warm in April. 
 We have seen the thermometer in the early por- 
 tion of that month as high as eighty degrees in the 
 shade at two, p.m. True, that was exceptionable ; 
 but it was warm weather at mid-day through the 
 half of that month ; and to continue this tempera- 
 ture on to October makes a long season of sum- 
 mer weather, which might be objectionable in 
 some instances. 
 
 There are those who assert the climate of 
 Florida to be proved, from statistics, to stand at the 
 lowest rates of mortality. From the census report 
 of 1860, we find the average number of deaths 
 from consumption, in various States, to be — 
 
 One in 254 in Massacliusetts. 
 
 One in 473 in New York. 
 
 One in 757 in Virginia. 
 
 One in 1139 in Minnesota. 
 
 One in 1447 in Florida. 
 
 This table certainly speaks very highly in 
 favor of the climate for this class of diseases. 
 It is not impossible, however, that the returns 
 may have been less perfect for Florida than those 
 of other States, owing to the sparseness of popula- 
 
THEEMOMETEK KANGES. 
 
 183 
 
 tion and the inferior facilities for obtaining exact 
 data. 
 
 The following table of observations made at 
 Jacksonville shows the highest and lowest range 
 of the thermometer each month for five years from 
 1857 to 1861, both inclusive : * — 
 
 MONTHS. 
 
 January. . . 
 February. . 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August . . . 
 September. 
 October . . . 
 November . 
 December . 
 
 1857 
 
 H. L 
 
 1858 
 
 11. L 
 
 76 38 
 
 77 39 
 
 1859 
 
 H. L. 
 
 7630 
 7939 
 
 84 
 89 
 92 
 94 
 95 
 91 
 92 
 84 
 79 
 79136 
 
 1860 
 
 H. L. 
 
 45 
 53 
 
 64 
 70 
 70 
 
 75| 
 
 70 
 50 
 35 
 
 1861 
 
 H. L 
 
 KEMAEKS. 
 
 Ice one to two inches 
 thick, Jan. 19,20, 1857. 
 
 At 7, A.M., Nov. 25, 
 1860, the thermometer 
 stood at 25°. 
 
 There is a marked difference in the thermomet- 
 ric range at Enterprise, two hundred miles south 
 of Jacksonville ; not that it so much exceeds, if 
 any, the above table, but that it does not reach as 
 low a point, making the climate more even in tem- 
 perature, and consequently more desirable. This, 
 
 * This table is from tlie report by the Hon. J. S. Adams, the Com- 
 miaBioner of Immigratiou, published ia 1869. 
 
184 
 
 A WINTER IN I'LORIDA. 
 
 even, is observed at Palatka, wliicli is also a more 
 favorable place for these reasons. 
 
 A comparative table, from the same source, 
 showing the monthly and yearly mean for twenty 
 years at St. Augustine, thirty-one years at West 
 Point, and thirty-five years at Fort Snelling, is 
 given, showing the equabiHty of climate of the sev- 
 eral localities : — 
 
 St. Autrustine, Fla. . 
 West Point, N.Y. . . 
 Fort Snelling, Minn 
 
 St, Augustine, Fla. . 
 West Point, N.Y. . . 
 Fort Snelling, Minn. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 Mar. 
 
 April. May. June 
 
 57.03 59.94 63.34 68.78 73. 5079. S6 
 28.28 28.80 37.63 48. 7o'59.82!6».41 
 
 13.7617.57 
 
 July. 
 
 Auar. 
 
 31.41 
 
 Sept. 
 
 80.90j80.56 78.60 
 73.75 71.83 64.31 
 73.40i70.05 58.86 
 
 56.34:58.97 68.46 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 71.88 64.12 
 53.04j42.23 
 47.15i31.67 
 
 Dec. 
 
 Year. 
 
 57.2669.61 
 31.98 50.73 
 16.8946.54 
 
 !N'one need expect that every winter day in 
 Florida will be like a selected day in May or 
 September at the North. There w411 be cool and 
 cloudy days ; there will be occasional rainy days, 
 though the winter months are usually very free 
 from rain. The rainy season is in the summer ; 
 and of these months August is usually prolific in 
 heavy falls of water. In most countries where 
 
THE WINTER EVENINGS. 185 
 
 tliey have wliat is denominated the wet season, 
 this occurs in the winter or spring months, leaving 
 the summers, when vegetation needs rain most, 
 very dry, and trying to the crops ; whereas in 
 Florida this is reversed, and in the hot weather 
 the heaviest rains fall. 
 
 The mild atmosphere of winter, w^hich permits 
 so much life in the open air ; the sea-breezes from 
 the ocean on the one side and the gulf on the 
 other ; the mode of living without air-tight stoves 
 and hot-air furnaces, but with ample ventilation 
 in, around, and under their dwellings, which have 
 no cellars, and usually stand on posts a couple of 
 feet from the surface, — to these things may be 
 ascribed the freedom from lung complaints, though 
 the character of the soil itself greatly contributes 
 to the absence of this disease, by its loose, sandy 
 nature quickly absorbing moisture, and yet being 
 most of the time warm and comparatively dry. 
 
 Visitors may expect to find the evenings and 
 nights often damp and chilly in winter, and occa- 
 sionally frosty. Our May and September have 
 such nights ; and yet these months are thought to 
 possess the most agreeable temperature in the 
 North. Snow is not seen, nor ice, except as rari- 
 
186 A %YINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 ties. It is no unusual tliino; to sit without a fire 
 and with open doors in the winter ; and it is never 
 absolutely uncomfortable to be out of doors, except 
 in a storm or at night. Fires are, however, a 
 great comfort most of the winter evenings and 
 mornings, chiefly in removing the dampness, and 
 taking off the chill; but an open door or window 
 at the same time is not a discomfort. A good 
 idea of a Florida winter may be best had, perhaps, 
 by letting our months of September, November, 
 and May, stand for their December, January, and 
 February. 
 
 Tliere is no doubt, notwithstanding the fine cli- 
 mate, that people do die in Florida ! They have 
 hitherto, and will continue to drop away there as 
 elsewhere from some one of the many ills that all 
 flesh is heir to. Fevers, malarious and bilious, and 
 fevers with chills, are not infrequent, as they will 
 always be in a country that is new, and heavily 
 timbered, and filled with rivers and numerous 
 lakes. Still, we believe that the ague prevails 
 more in the Wabash Valley, and that fevers were 
 as common in many other States, where now a good 
 degree of health is mamtained, in their early set- 
 tlement, as at present in Florida. 
 
WHOM THE CLIMATE WILL BENEFIT. 187 
 
 Of course, the climate Is not a panacea for all 
 ills. All pain will not vanish under its influence, 
 nor will it act as a certain balm to those whose 
 disease is deeply seated and far advanced. Allur- 
 ing hope should not tempt such from the comforts 
 of home, even for the placid skies of Italy. There 
 is no question that many who are constitutionally 
 predisposed to, and those who are in the first 
 stages of, pulmonic troubles and kindred com- 
 plaints, also those wanting in vitality, and the 
 over-worked, and those suffering from nervous 
 prostration, may reasonably hope for the most 
 beneficial results ; but all should exercise the 
 same care here as at home. As a rule, they 
 should not expose themselves to the night air, nor 
 be tempted on warm, bright days to lay aside 
 thick shoes and comfortable clothing. The invalid 
 should always be clad in woolen clothing; and the 
 robust do not require a linen suit except in the 
 summer months. 
 
 ^^f^V&^ 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE SOIL. 
 
 First Impressions. — Varieties of Soil. — Cane, Cotton, and Com.— • 
 Adaptability of the Soil for Early Vegetables. — The Culture of 
 Eice, Coffee, and Tea, considered. — The Chinese. — A Prediction- 
 — Good News to all Housekeepers. — A California Senator. — His 
 Triangular Position. 
 
 The soil of Florida differs very greatly from 
 that of every other State with which we are fa- 
 miliar. Its first appearance is that of a worthless 
 character, miproductive and quite valueless ; but 
 yet you are everywhere confronted with such 
 stately, vigorous trees, and rank growths, that it 
 seems quite paradoxical that out of the sand should 
 come so giant a Flora. On closer inspection, we 
 find the subsoil is often a mold, and, again, filled 
 with broken marine shells and fragments of lime- 
 rock ; and this has worked itself in with the fine 
 sand, giving it its power to sustain such forests 
 as abound everywhere along the river-courses. 
 Over the whole State there are, of course, great 
 
 188 
 
CHAEACTER OF THE SOIL. 189 
 
 varieties of soil. In the rich hummock and bot- 
 tom lands, a black mold, with a mixture of the 
 sand, is seen ; the dark, vegetable compound pre- 
 dominating: and you have this soil shaded off 
 till you come to the almost pure silica, or dry 
 sand, where little else but the scrub-oak and black- 
 jack flourish. The pine-forests, as we have before 
 remarked, cover a majority of the surface in the 
 northern and eastern half of the peninsula. These 
 pme-lands are not so desirable for crops as the 
 river-lands ; yet they, even, are valuable. The 
 first-rate pine-land possesses considerable vege- 
 table matter, and has a kind of marl or limestone 
 substratum, that gives it an enduring fertility. 
 This sort of land is, perhaps, to the early settler, 
 the very best, since he may always find within the 
 pine-woods a suitable and healthy location for a 
 dwelling. This is not always true of the river- 
 banks, where the hummock-lands are. Time, and 
 the opening-up of the country, will render them 
 quite habitable ; but, at present, chills and fevers 
 have to be encountered unless the site is very high 
 and airy. The settler may, however, by judicious 
 purchase, procure on almost any portion of the St. 
 John's River a fifty or a hundred acre tract, 
 
190 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 which shall not only front on the river, embracing 
 considerable of the rich river-land, but extend 
 back into the pine-woods, where he may locate his 
 dwelling, and be tolerably free from the diseases 
 which come from a home near the lowland and 
 standing waters of the bays that indent the shores. 
 
 Much of the second-class pine-land will grow 
 nearly all kinds of vegetables ; and even cotton 
 and the cane will flourish, this having a clay and 
 marl foundation. Three hundred pounds of Sea- 
 Island cotton have been taken from an acre ; and 
 Cuba tobacco and all kinds of fruit may be culti- 
 vated with success upon it. 
 
 It is the bottom and river lands, however, that 
 seem the most highly prized ; and this is not 
 strange when their productive power is so great. 
 The sugar-cane 77iatures in this country only in 
 Florida. True, it is grown in Louisiana and Texas 
 extensively ; but it no where tassels out like our 
 Northern corn, except in this peninsula ; and this 
 is the sure sign of its maturity. The term 
 " hummock " land — the Indian name for elevated 
 tracts lying above the low or wet lands — is now 
 applied to nearly all the hardwood lands in the 
 State. It may be cultivated, year after year, 
 
MABKET GAEDENING. 191 
 
 with tlie most exhausting crops of tobacco or 
 cane, without apparent diminution of its power. 
 For gardening purposes it is unsurpassed; and is, 
 indeed, what the greenhouse man sifts and mixes 
 in fine compost, for his dehcate plants and shrubs. 
 The time is coming, when, with a semi-weekly 
 line of steamers running direct from Jacksonville 
 to New York, the markets of that city will be 
 supplied with early vegetables grown on the St. 
 John's River. A few industrious Yankees have 
 already initiated the enterprise of early gardening, 
 and there is not a shadow of doubt as to the 
 result. Green pease may be had in abundance by 
 the 1st of April ; and farther up the river, new 
 potatoes can be grown for market by that time. 
 We know this to be possible ; for they were upon 
 our table as early as that, as were also straw- 
 berries and blackberries. The ordinary vegeta- 
 bles can be raised to great profit for the Northern 
 markets : pease, potatoes, melons of all kinds, 
 string-beans, &c., mature rapidly and early, 
 and with very little care beyond planting and a 
 single hoeing. Of all crops, the melon grows the 
 most spontaneous, and may be raised on the very 
 poorest soil, as light and air contribute chiefly to 
 
192 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 their growth. All these articles can be safely 
 shipped, even with the present means of convey- 
 ance to New York. Sweet potatoes are, of course, 
 grown here, and they sell at an extremely low 
 rate. In this article alone a handsome profit 
 might be realized. By and by, when quick water 
 communication is had, tomatoes, cucumbers, 
 squashes, and other articles, may be sent to dis- 
 tant markets : at present these products, embra- 
 cing all we have named, except, perhaps, sweet 
 potatoes, find a ready sale at Jacksonville, as the 
 demand exceeds the supply. 
 
 Under British occupation, there were extensive 
 indigo plantations, this crop forming the chief 
 article of export ; and even now it may be seen 
 growing in its wild state, having become natural- 
 ized and indigenous. Coffee and rice, especially 
 the latter, could easily be made profitable ; and 
 their culture will some day employ, doubtless, 
 many hundred pairs of hands. 
 
 The experiment of raising the article of tea in 
 this country has been attempted and abandoned : 
 but never tried in Florida. We are quite san- 
 guine it can be grown there. The northern 
 half of the State lies in the same parallels of 
 
THE COMING MAN ! 193 
 
 latitude with tlie noted tea-districts of China ; and 
 the soil is thought to be much of tlie same char- 
 acter as that on which the choice teas are gro^vn 
 in that country. Of course it must be at first, 
 from the very nature of the case, an experiment, 
 as the culture of any new product, even if seem- 
 ingly adapted to the locality, is pretty likely 
 to be ; yet, with Chinamen to dress and tend 
 the plant, its successful culture may be considered 
 assured. Nor is this an impossible dream ; for, 
 while penning these lines, the telegraph flashes 
 the arrival in the harbor of San Francisco of one 
 of the Pacific mail-steamships with twelve hun- 
 dred Chinamen as passengers. And this whole- 
 sale immigration is being constantly repeated. 
 They are now numerous on the Pacific coast ; and 
 vfe venture to predict that a million of China- 
 men will reach our shores within the next decade. 
 They are industrious and frugal beyond all knovvd- 
 edge of our people ; and they will yet solve the 
 problem of obedient, honest, and respectful labor 
 at a cheap rate, both in doors and out. Where 
 now the many incompetent and impertinent 
 servants hold high and triumphant carnival, 
 let us hope these patient and faithful people 
 
 13 
 
194 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 may be found instead. It is a matter for pro- 
 found regret, that, on the Pacific coast, these 
 " Children of the Sun " are so universally misused, 
 if not often brutally treated by the resident popu- 
 lation. That one of California's senators, him- 
 self the son of a foreigner, whose father, under 
 the laws of the United States, was, after a brief 
 residence, admitted to all the rights of citizenship, 
 should publicly denounce these peaceful and law- 
 abiding people as a common nuisance, when their 
 only crime is that of working faithfully, and for 
 one-half the waires of an imiorant Irishman, is 
 too preposterous for credence ; yet the fact seems 
 indubitable. Shame on this ignoble " Roman." 
 
CHAPTEH XIV. 
 
 FRUITS. 
 
 The Orange. — Its Cultivation. — The Several Varieties. — ARoastccI 
 "Bitter-Sweet."— The Wild Orange a Native of Florida. — The 
 Frost of 1835. — The Orange a Prolific Bearer. — Peculiarities of 
 the Orange. — Scarcity of Orange -Groves. — Where the largest 
 may be seen. — The Lemon and Lime. — The Grape indigenous, 
 — The Scuppernong. — Florida as a Wine-growing Country. — 
 Peach-Culture. — Figs and Pomegranates flourish. 
 
 The most important of all fruits in Florida is 
 the 
 
 ORANGE. 
 
 There are four varieties to be found in the State. 
 Three of them — the sour orange, the bitter 
 orange, which is very bitter, and the bitter-sweet 
 orange — are found growing wild, in irregular 
 groves, along the principal rivers and streams, 
 though in greatest numbers near the center of the 
 peninsula, up the Ocklawaha River. There, 
 thousands of the wild trees grow ; and, in their 
 bearing season, it is a beautiful sight to wander 
 
 196 
 
196 A WINTEE IN FLORIDA. 
 
 through these natural groves laden with such 
 beautiful globes of gold, peeping on all sides from 
 the briMit o-reen foliage, bendino; low the branches 
 with their weight, and exhaling an aroma at once 
 delicious and powerful. The fruit clings with a 
 good deal of tenacity for a long time after it has 
 ripened ; but during the whiter and early spring 
 it mostly falls, though you may see the new 
 blossoms and the young oranges while the ripe 
 fruit still remains. No other large fruit-bearing 
 tree does this, to our knowledge ; and it is a rare 
 sight, worth a journey, to be able to stand within 
 a wild orchard of these beautiful trees, and feel 
 the drowsing influence of fruit and flowers. 
 
 The " sour " variety is too sour for any sort 
 of good purpose; and the " bitter" is too outrage- 
 ous for any use save to remind you of the " Dt ad- 
 Sea fruit" whose taste is never forgotten by even 
 those of not usually very tenacious recollections* 
 The " bitter-sweet " are not put to a very great 
 use at present, and may never be ; yet the Indians, 
 and some of the native people, use them in the 
 manufacture of a pleasant beverage, quite like our 
 lemonade, and full as palatable perhaps. Barrels 
 of the juice of this orange could be had for the 
 
THE WILD ORANGIS. 197 
 
 labor of procuring and pressing tliem. Whether 
 it might be made into a lemon sirup, and thus 
 become an article of commerce, we do not know ; 
 but we see no reason it should not, except that our 
 inventive Yankees, or others, have substituted in 
 late years a sirup from chemical combinations, 
 which finds a ready market ; and, since the public 
 seem never over nice in small matters, they un- 
 hesitatingly gulp it down in quantities sufficient, 
 with other drugs, to in time poison, if it were only 
 taken pure, the whole population. 
 
 A writer in one of the periodicals relates his ex- 
 perience with the wild orange, and we cordially con- 
 cur in his estimate of it under the treatment describ- 
 ed. He says, " a roasted ' bitter-sweet ' is a very de- 
 licious thing. They have to be treated with care lest 
 the oil in the thick rind should get mixed with the 
 juice. Cut a circular piece of the rind from the top of 
 the orange, push carefally down a portion of the pulp 
 to admit the introduction of sugar, then replace 
 the cap of rind, and fasten with several wooden 
 plugs, not penetrating beyond the rind ; then roll 
 it in paper, leaves, or moss, — any thing to keep it 
 clean, — and bury in the earth under the fire. In 
 due time, when it is thought the inside has 
 
198 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 thorougUy assimilated, carefully withdraw the 
 fruit, and remove the lid ; when, armed with a 
 spoon, you have a nectar such as no caterer ever 
 dreamed." 
 
 It is generally thought the orange is not a native 
 of this country, but must have been brought to 
 Florida by the early Spanish colonists. This is 
 the accepted theory, but not a known fact. It is 
 our opinion, that the orange is indigenous to the 
 soil ; and our reasons are, that it flourishes and 
 seems as hardy and natural to the soil and climate 
 as the magnolia, the live oak, or the palm and 
 date. The great frost of 1835 killed nearly every 
 tree on the peninsula ; and yet there is to-day, as 
 good authority asserts, a million of acres of the 
 best lands of the State covered by the wild 
 orange.* Again, the cultivated fruit, the sweet 
 variety, excels the fruit of any other country, both 
 in size and sweetness. This is the general testi- 
 mony of competent judges, and we unqualifiedly 
 concur, especially when we remember those 
 grown in what is known as the Indian-river 
 country. These seldom reach any of the Northern 
 
 * Dr. D. H. Jacques, in tho October number of " The Horticulturist " 
 for 1868, gives this statement. 
 
THE OEANGE INDIGENOUS. 199 
 
 markets, the home consumption being sufficient to 
 require them all. The orange is a native of Asia 
 and the East Indies, and also, we shall add, of 
 Florida. It was not grown in Europe till about 
 the fifteenth century ; and it is scarcely likely the 
 Spaniards introduced it, since they cultivated it 
 very indifferently up to the sixteenth century, and 
 Florida was discovered by them in 1512. The 
 fact that some of the early Spaniards left no ac- 
 count of this fruit argues little, since they gave 
 very little account of any thing they either saw 
 or undertook, beyond general expressions. The 
 first elaborate sketches of Florida were given by 
 the Bartrams, father and son, about a hundred 
 years ago ; and these writers mention seeing 
 everywhere in the forests, as the traveler may now 
 who seeks the interior and central section, groves 
 of the wild orange, with the fruit so abundant as to 
 actually cumber the ground. The evidence all 
 tends to the one conclusion, so far as we have ex- 
 amined the subject ; and that is, as before stated, 
 that the orano;e is indio-enous to the soil in Florida. 
 Next to the Florida is the Havana orange, a 
 large and handsome fruit of a bright color, with a 
 rich and juicy pulp, and very free from seeds. 
 
200 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 The Maltese orano-e is also a favorite, and is 
 thoucrlit tlie sweetest of all varieties. Its red 
 pulp lias been considered objectionable ; bnt now 
 this is less thought of, and already by many it is 
 preferred.* Then there is the Mandarin, a fine 
 new orange, grown in China, which is peculiar in 
 consequence of the looseness of the rind which 
 scarce adheres to the pulp. This is likely to be- 
 come a favorite. 
 
 The oranixe is the lonojest-lived fruit-tree known 
 to us. It is reputed to have attained the age of 
 three hundred years, and known to flourish and 
 bear fruit for more than a hundred years. No 
 fruit-tree will sustain itself and produce fruit so 
 well under neo;lect and rouo;h treatment. It comes 
 into bearing about the third year from the budding, 
 and by the fifth year produces an abundant crop, 
 thougli the yield is gradually increased by age and 
 favorable circumstances. The early growth of the 
 orange is rapid ; and by its tenth year it has grown 
 more than it will in the next fifty, so far as breadth 
 and height are concerned : but it is age that mul- 
 tiplies its fruit-stems ; and we are informed, on fair 
 
 * The red color of the pulp is said to have some fr )in grafting the 
 orange on thr pomegi an ato. 
 
THE YIELD OF THE OEANGE. 201 
 
 authority, that ten thousand oranges have been 
 produced by a single tree. A correspondent, in 
 " The Horticulturist " of last year, states that 
 eight thousand were gathered in one season from a 
 tree in St. Auo;ustine.* We know these ficnires 
 will be thought high, and they are far beyond the 
 common experience ; yet they show what may be 
 done. The yield of the present groves in the 
 State, which we observed, would not, however, 
 average over two thousand to a tree ; and they 
 were from ten to fifteen years old. These groves 
 have not, as yet, attained maturity ; and, in time, 
 the average will run above this figure. They can 
 be marketed readily at twenty-five dollars per 
 thousand : this would give an income of fifty dollars 
 fi'om each tree, or to an acre of rising a hundred 
 trees, five thousand dollars. The labor of one 
 man is quite sufficient to tend the largest grove in 
 Florida, except at the time of gathering, when two 
 are required. 
 
 The usual method of propagating the orange is 
 quite like that of the peach ; and one who under- 
 stands the latter, need have no fear of mastering 
 the other. Indeed, it is an easier thing to grow 
 
 ♦ See October number of " Ilorticulturiet " for 1IG8. 
 
202 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 the orange in Florida than the peach in New Jer- 
 sey ; and that is saying considerable in favor of the 
 orange. It is almost sure to live in the trans- 
 planting, and is in every way a very easy tree to 
 manage. It has but one enemy in the insect line ; 
 and latterly that has not done the slightest dam- 
 age, and never has the power to destroy the tree, 
 as the " borer " has the peach. Then the tree 
 itself is free from disease ; and we all know the 
 peach is subject to the " yellows," which, during 
 the last fifteen years, has nearly driven it from 
 every homestead in New England. Still another 
 great consideration in favor of the orange over most 
 fruit-trees is the tenacity with which the fruit 
 clings to the tree after it is fully ripe. Ten days 
 is about the usual time for the peach-tree to hold 
 its fruit after commencing to ripen : though varie- 
 ties differ, we might say the limit was not over 
 twenty days ; and all know how a thunder-gust 
 will, when they are ripe, despoil the tree of its 
 fruit. They have to be marketed rapidly, or they 
 are lost from decay ; whereas the orange will, 
 when fully ripe, remain fresh and sound upon 
 the tree for several months, while the winds and 
 storms but gradually shake them off; and when 
 
THE ORANGE A STEADY BEARER. 203 
 
 they are tlius shaken or gathered regularly, they 
 may be kept for many weeks, though, of course, 
 they slowly deteriorate m size, and lose some- 
 thing in juiciness and fine flavor. 
 
 The orange is not only a prolific, but is likewise 
 a steady bearer. It puts forth blossoms during 
 the last half of winter and the first half of spring, 
 by which time the flowering is mainly over : this 
 is itself unusual, and peculiar to this tree. The 
 peach, cherry, plum, quince, pear, and apple 
 bloom promptly and fully, not holding in flower 
 over ten days, and their fruit progressing in growth 
 uniformly; while the orange may hold in Feb- 
 ruary, blossoms, the green fruit, and the matured. 
 These advantages, in connection w^ith its longev- 
 ity, make it the most profitable and least expen- 
 sive fruit grown in America. 
 
 The ground needs only to be cleared of timber 
 and under-brush to start an orchard of these trees ; 
 though, of course, if thoroughly prepared and 
 cultivated, it is only so much the better. The 
 wild-orange tree is used for budding or grafting in 
 the establishing of an orchard or grove. They can 
 be had in any number ; and there are parties who 
 are in the habit of procurif»g them for customers, 
 
204 A WINTER IN TLOEIDA. 
 
 while others, owning extensive tracts where natU' 
 ral groves abound, supply the market in very much 
 the same manner as the nursery-men North do, 
 and for the present at very reasonable prices, — 
 the usual charge being fifty cents per tree. They 
 vary in size from one to four inches ; though a 
 greater percentage of the larger ones die, and are 
 not consequently so desirable. If, however, the 
 tree is in the spring taken up with ordinary care 
 and seasonably transplanted, ninety per cent will 
 live, and become well established the first season. 
 They should be set in rows, about twenty feet 
 apart each wav ; thou£ih the most of the proves we 
 saw were standing nearer. This would give 
 something over a hundred trees to the acre, and 
 in time the whole surface would be covered by 
 the branches. Meanwhile the space between can 
 be used for the growing of vegetables, with actual 
 benefit to the trees. 
 
 All trees for transplanting should be cut off to 
 within five feet of the ground, all the main limbs 
 being lopped off, leaving little else beside the 
 stump, and perhaps one or two of the smaller 
 branches. 
 
 Those who have groves of the wild orange, in 
 
THE PROPAGATION OF THE OEANGE. 205 
 
 locations to suit, do not disturb such as they wish 
 to remain, but take up all others, and with them 
 fill m here and there to perfect the rows ; and with 
 the surplus either extend their orchard, or dis- 
 pose to such as may desire. The usual plan is to 
 bud the sweet orange on the stock of the wild 
 orange, at any time after the tree, having been 
 transplanted, puts forth strong shoots, showing a 
 renewal of the flow of sap. This is usually done 
 durino; the summer ; but buddino; is attended with 
 success whenever the sap is flowing upward, and 
 this is the case most of the year. The bud is 
 placed in the arms, or trunk, or the shoot when 
 old enough. If grafting is preferred, you have 
 only to follov/ the usual custom ; that is, when 
 strong shoots have started, cut off the tops of the 
 arms or trunk, and insert the grafts, leaving a 
 shoot, if convenient, to assist the flow of sap up- 
 ward, covering the surface cut with any suitable 
 material, that the air and rain be kept out. The 
 best plan, if grafting is not resorted to, is, we 
 think, to bud the shoots after they have had ten 
 or twelve weeks start, breaking off, early, all shoots 
 not designed for budding. 
 
 The practice of raising trees from the seed is 
 
206 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 receiving attention ; and, where parties can wait, 
 this is the more desirable plan, still, a much 
 longer time is required to come to bearing. The 
 seed of the wild orange may be planted, though 
 the sweet-orange seed is the best. Both require 
 budding, which, of course, is the only proper way 
 of treating young stock ; yet it will be found that 
 the latter will produce a superior fruit. 
 
 The sweet variety may be grafted or budded 
 upon the stock of the lemon not only without 
 deterioration, but it is claimed by some to be im- 
 proved both in size and quality. It is used when- 
 ever it can be obtained, the same as the wild 
 orange. It is asserted that the lemon is a 
 much shorter lived tree than the orange ; but of 
 this we could not say. 
 
 The common impression of those who have 
 never been to Florida is, that this beautiful fruit- 
 tree may be everywhere seen and that they 
 Hterally abound. This notion would vanish 
 were they to visit the State. It is only in the 
 older settlements that you see groves of the sweet 
 orange. It is true, single trees, or a half-dozen 
 trees, are not unfrequent in numerous localities ; but 
 we have never seen over a half-dozen that 
 
THE LEMON AND LIME. 207 
 
 were worthy of the name of grove or orchard. 
 One at Mandarin, three in St. Augustine, two in 
 and near Palatka, and one, the finest in Eastern 
 Florida, about thirty miles south of New Smyrna, 
 near Indian River.* Western Florida has, in the 
 aggregate, a great many orange-trees ; but we are 
 not familiar with any groves there, excepting one 
 at Fort Myers and another at Sarasota Bay. 
 
 The tree itself is of handsome form, seldom 
 over twenty feet in height, and near twelve feet 
 across the branches or top, which is conical in 
 form and not unlike the well-trained dwarf pear- 
 tree in general outline, though growing much 
 larger than they do. 
 
 The dryer hummock-lands suit the orange best ; 
 yet it does well in every soil in the State with 
 which we are acquainted, excepting the scrub- 
 oak land, and even on that it will produce fruit. 
 
 The lemon, lime, and citron, all members of the 
 same family with the orange, attain perfection, 
 and are quite as easily grown as the orange itself. 
 They will be found growing wild in Central and 
 
 Eastern Florida, and may be cultivated with 
 
 ♦ Likewise one at Enterprise. 
 
208 A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 
 
 profit. Indeed, whatever has been said of the 
 orange, as to soil and its capabilities, is nearly 
 equally applicable to these ; and, beyond tliis 
 simple mention, we shall therefore not dwell upon 
 them. 
 
 Wild grapes of several grades are found in the 
 swamps, and along the rivers and streams, through 
 all the State. They are indigenous to the soil : 
 and it is quite probable that the Spanish people 
 brought with them their cultivated varieties ; and 
 these growing wild, and mingling with the natives, 
 have produced kinds varying from every other, — 
 some being quite desirable, and all producing a 
 fair wine-making fruit. Bar tram speaks in their 
 praise, in his time ; and he was undoubtedly a 
 connoisseur in all matters of that sort. The 
 
 SCUPPERNONG GRAPE, 
 
 quite famous for its fine wine, may be raised in 
 great perfection and profusion in almost any 
 portion of East Florida. Even the pine lands of 
 poorest quality suit it ; and more wine can be 
 made fi'om an acre of this land than from any 
 two acres of the ordinary wine-growing country 
 in Eui'ope. The highest yield in Europe is not 
 
GEAPE CULTUEE— THE SCITPPERNONG. 209 
 
 over five hundred gallons to the acre : whereas, 
 in this State, over fifteen hundred gallons is a 
 common yield. When these facts become fully 
 known, it must excite the grape-growing popula- 
 tion of worn-out France and Italy to try their 
 fortunes in our more favored land. 
 
 The Scuppernong is one of the hardiest varieties 
 grown ; is free from the rot, the premature falling 
 of fruit, and is here, quite out of the range of 
 frost. The heat being uniform, and not so great 
 even as it is subjected to in higher latitudes, the 
 fruit matures fully; being a never-failing bearer, 
 and grandly luxuriant in its growth and develop- 
 ment. A vine once planted, and well-estab- 
 lished, will take care of itself, requiring no 
 pruning or attention beyond giving it an arbor 
 large enough to spread itself upon : with this it is 
 content. This grape is not grown north of 
 Virginia with success, though it may be cultivated 
 in that State ; but it increases in size and in fine- 
 ness of flavor as you go southward. A gentleman 
 in South Carolina, near the center of the State, 
 has several acres of this grape, and his wine 
 finds a ready market. The banks of the St. 
 John's, we predict, will, in time, be as famous 
 
 14 
 
210 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 for its vineyards and -wine as are those of 
 the Rhine in Europe. There is no sort of 
 necessity for America importing the miserable 
 adulterations that she is now doing, and sending 
 her gold across the ocean by the milhons in 
 exchange, when, within her own boundaries, 
 she is favored beyond all lands in soil and climate 
 adapted to the production of superior wine, and 
 in such quantities as not only to supply the home 
 demand, but have a surplus for exportation. 
 
 PEACHES 
 
 are another crop that can be raised with great suc- 
 cess. They ripen in June, and the different vaii- 
 eties carry the bearing season into October. At 
 present, not much attention is given them ; and 
 that is not so extraordinary either, since few things 
 have received much attention in Florida for the 
 past hundred years : and, all the older marks of 
 civilization having ceased to be, the elements have 
 almost as clear a title now as on the morning of 
 creation. 
 
 Peaches will bring as high a price in the mar- 
 kets as orans'es : and thouo-h not so lono;-lived or 
 
 o o o 
 
 as hardy a tree, yet it will bring quicker returns 
 
THE PEACH AND FIG. 211 
 
 to the settler ; and their cultivation is so easy a 
 matter that they can not, in due time, fail to com- 
 mand the attention of the shrewd and enterprising. 
 Perhaps the great trouble in this State is, that, as 
 remarked before, it is " so easy a matter" to do 
 this or that in husbandry, that most things go un- 
 done, and little stimulus is given labor where its 
 necessity is not absolute. 
 
 Figs grow freely, as also the pomegranate and 
 the guava. Our Northern markets are now 
 wholly supplied by importations. The latter arti- 
 cle, prepared in a jelly, finds a ready sale every- 
 where, and is delicious. 
 
 Cuba has heretofore furnished us this fruit, but 
 Florida is even better adapted to it than any of 
 the West-India Islands. It is only that it is a 
 new-sounding and strange fruit which will likely 
 prevent its extensive introduction at present. By 
 and by, we may hope for a wider and a more 
 profitable horticulture, not only on the peninsula, 
 but in all of the more Southern States. 
 
 -^1 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 MIDDLE FLORIDA. — TALLAHASSEE AND QUINCY. 
 
 Not much frequented.— Its Attractions.— The City of Tallahassee.— Its 
 Eailway Connections.— The City of Quincy.— Tobacco and Wine Grow- 
 ing.— Value and Character of Lands.— Absence of good Hotels.— The 
 wonderful Lakes.— Wakulla Spring. 
 
 Middle and Western Florida have not liitlierto 
 been mucli frequented by either of the several 
 classes who usually visit this State on the approach 
 of the winter season. We are at a loss to explain 
 this, except in the fact that the facilities for reach- 
 ing these portions of the State are not as great as 
 are those contiguous to the seaboard, and to the ab- 
 sence of any great river, upon which communi- 
 cation is at all times abundant and easy. The 
 peculiarities of the famed St. John's River is likely 
 one of the chief causes of the flow of Northern 
 travel into the eastern rather than into the middle 
 or western sections. Yet those who visit the State 
 and fail to see the country west of the Suwanee, 
 can not be said to have any thing like a proper 
 knowledge either of its beauty or topography. 
 
MIDDLE FLOEIDA. 213 
 
 Perhaps no country not absolutely mountainous 
 possesses such a fine variety of hill and dale, lake 
 and woodland, as that in which the cities of Tal- 
 lahassee and Quincy is the centre. It is in pleas- 
 ing contrast to the generally low, sandy country 
 comprising the eastern division. 
 
 Middle Florida comprises that portion of the 
 State embraced between the rivers Suwanee and 
 Appalachicola. 
 
 The monotonous appearance of the country is 
 broken soon after passing west of the Suwanee, 
 and in place of the interminable pine forests may 
 be seen the cotton-wood, sweet-bay, gum, and 
 other deciduous trees common to the South. The 
 soil assumes here a clayey, and there a dark, sandy 
 loam color, while much of it is what is termed 
 by the planters as a mulatto-soil, a kind of buff 
 loam with an admixture of clay. It is regarded as 
 quite productive, and will yield fair crops of wheat, 
 corn, cotton, cane, or oats, while the dark loam 
 in the lower valleys and along the swales is as fer- 
 tile as the prairies of the great "West. This upper 
 tier of counties, through which the railway pass- 
 es, embraces as fine an agricultural district as can 
 probably be found in any section of the South. 
 
214: A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 TALLAHASSEE, 
 
 the countj-seat of Leon, and the capital of tlie 
 State, is nearly in the centre of this once rich and 
 aristocratic section known as Middle Florida. Its 
 situation is remarkable for its beauty and com- 
 manding prospect of the adjacent country. Built 
 upon an eminence, with the capitol building upon 
 the crown, it possesses a striking likeness to the city 
 and capitol of Eichmond, though the elevation is 
 not more than one half as great, nor the popula- 
 tion a fourth that of its renowned prototype. The 
 place is regularly laid out with wide and ample 
 streets, and adorned with numerous and beautiful 
 shade- trees, which, in conjunction with the abun- 
 dant shrubs and flowers surrounding the many 
 pleasant dwellings, gives an air of elegant ease 
 and comfort, such as the inhabitants of but few 
 towns anywhere can boast. There are no outward 
 signs of the ravages of war to be seen here, except 
 the absence of that former prosperity, visible in 
 the premature decay and neglect coming from de- 
 rangement and disorder of the civil government. 
 Time must remedy the depressed and disturbed 
 condition of the people, if they are but wise, and 
 the Legislature enlightened. 
 
TALLAHASSEE. 215 
 
 Tallahassee has easy and direct communication 
 by rail with the Atlantic seaboard at Savannah 
 and Fernandina, also with Jacksonville and with 
 the Gulf by rail some twenty miles to St. Mark's, 
 where the New-Orleans and Mobile steamships 
 touch once a week. Parties wishing to reach any 
 points of the State lying on the gulf coast, how- 
 ever, will find Cedar Keys a much better point of 
 departure, since both the Havana and New-Or- 
 leans steamers halt there. 
 
 "West from Tallahassee runs the railway known 
 as the Pensacola road. Quincy is its present 
 terminus, though its completion to the Appala- 
 chicola River is an event nearly or quite accom- 
 plished at this writing. 
 
 The city boasts of an academy, several churches, 
 and two weekly newspapers. 
 
 The cultivation of the orange is not given much 
 attention in the immediate neighborhood of Tal- 
 lahassee, a few trees only being seen in the gar- 
 dens. South of here, however, and especially in 
 the neighborhood of Gainesville and Tampa, they 
 are very plentiful. Thousands of acres of the wild 
 trees laden with the golden fruit are seen in those 
 localities. 
 
216 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 •■ 
 
 QUINCY, 
 
 wliicli place lies a score or more of miles west 
 of Tallahassee, and named for Josiah Quincy, of 
 Mass., is likewise situated in the centre of a 
 fertile and productive tract of country, rank- 
 ing with the best portions of Central Florida. 
 The soil of the surrounding country is various in 
 kind, and all underlaid with a substratum of clay. 
 It produces bountiful crops of tobacco, wheat, 
 oats, Tje, and hay, while the various kinds of 
 fruits and berries attain to great perfection. 
 
 Prior to the war, there were over a thousand 
 boxes of the finest tobacco raised for market in 
 this county, (Gadsden,) and commanded the very 
 highest prices, being considered fully equal to the 
 Cuban article by competent judges. Its cultiva- 
 tion has been reduced, in consequence of the war 
 and loss of capital, to little more than one fourth 
 of the previous value of the crop. 
 
 Wine-growing has until a very recent date been 
 wholly neglected. Now, however, it is known to 
 be one of the most valuable of enterprises in which, 
 the planter can engage. Both the climate and 
 soil of all the State nearly is favorable to the 
 growth of the grape, and in the vicinity of Quincy 
 
QUINCY. 217 
 
 it is beginning to receive special attention. A 
 gentleman living near Qaincy made the statement 
 that in his vineyard the yield was fully two thou- 
 sand gallons per acre, worth in the market, minus 
 the taxes, two and a half dollars per gallon, while 
 the cost of manufacture would not amount to fifty 
 cents. The Scuppernong is the favorite variety, 
 since it requires no attention beyond giving it an 
 opportunity to grow and something on which to 
 spread. Undoubtedly other and better qualities 
 will be found quite at home in this State, since 
 the soil and climate are adapted to the vine. In 
 confirmation of this, we have seen a wild vine 
 growing on the banks of the St. John's Eiver 
 whose trunk teu feet from the ground would 
 measure over thirty inches in circumference, and 
 the branches would, if stretched in a line, measure 
 more than a mile. 
 
 Quincy was formerly a place of resort by peo- 
 ple from the North, and has always maintained a 
 high sanitary reputation. Its location is a most 
 charming one, being not greatly unlike its sister 
 city, the capital of the State. Its popurlation can 
 not much exceed one thousand souls. Prior to 
 the war, a most flourishing ladies' seminary was 
 
218 A AVINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 located here. Tfe had tlie pleasure of meeting, 
 during our brief visit, quite a number of the citi- 
 zens, ail of whom expressed anxiety that the tide 
 of travel and of immigration should flow in its 
 direction. The interest taken in agricultural af- 
 fairs in this section of the State enlists all classes. 
 Even the venerable Ex- Chief- Justice, Du Pont, is 
 the President of the Agricultural Club at Quincy, 
 as also of the State society, and devotes much of 
 his time to active labors in the field, and sets a 
 noble example to idle hands everywhere. 
 
 The value of cultivated lands in these middle 
 counties varies much, as all will understand; yet 
 it is safe to say that the prices range from five to 
 twenty -five dollars per acre, including the improve- 
 ments. The lands are by no means worn out, but 
 are highly productive, and not unfrequently well 
 fenced, and have respectable buildings upon them. 
 
 There is an abundance of the best lands for sale, 
 and owners of large plantations are but too anx- 
 ious to divide them up, not only to accommodate 
 the purchasers, but likewise themselves. 
 
 It is unfortunate that neither Tallahassee nor 
 Quincy — two of the chief towns in Middle Florida 
 — and both holding a high rank as places of interest 
 
OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY. 219 
 
 to the tourist, and botli desirable as places of resort 
 for invalids — possesses a plain, well-kept hotel. 
 Quincj is utterly destitute; the present one being 
 practically a deserted ruin. Travelers will find, 
 however, very comfortable quarters at the house 
 of Mrs. Inness, near the centre of the town. In 
 Tallahassee, there is nearly an equal lack of 
 proper hotel accommodations. There is, it is true, 
 one that answers to the name ; but visitors will do 
 better to seek some one of the passable boarding- 
 houses which may be found on and near the pub- 
 lic square. 
 
 There are many objects of curiosity in Middle 
 Florida to every visitor. It is indeed one of the 
 most interesting portions of the continent to the 
 student of natural history, and that it should have 
 so long remained a kind of terra incognita is a 
 wonder and a marvel. The whole interior of the 
 State overlies a subterranean system of water 
 communication most remarkable to contemplate. 
 Springs, rivers, and lakes of nearly all sizes and 
 of singular habits abound in the vicinity of Talla- 
 hassee. Take Lake Jackson, for instance, a sheet 
 of water embracing several thousand acres, which 
 at irregular periods is no lake at all. Colonel 
 
220 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 Thompson, now an editor in Savannali, relates a 
 bunting story whicli proves the notable character of 
 this lake. He says that in 1837 a party were hunt- 
 ing near Lake Jackson, and had killed a panther, 
 which, in consequence of a storm appearing, they 
 were unable to remove, but hung it in a tree 
 standing on the edge of the lake, intending the 
 following day to return for it. What was their 
 surprise and embarrassment next day, when a 
 company of his friends rode out to the spot, to 
 find the lake had entirely disappeared ! This phe- 
 nomenon is not common ; years usually elapsing 
 between these exhibitions. Some of the lakes are 
 quite like those of any other, and entirely free 
 from these freaks. However, streams and con- 
 siderable of rivers, after coursing many miles, sud- 
 denly disappear in the earth and are lost to all 
 further knowledge, while others are known to 
 reappear and flow regularly to the ocean. A 
 notable instance is seen in the Chipola Eiver in 
 Jackson County, which forms a natural bridge of 
 some extent. Under this bridge is an immense 
 cavern capable of secreting great numbers of 
 people; and it is reported that General Jackson, 
 while in pursuit of a tribe of Indians, passed with 
 
WAKULLA SPKl^^G. 221 
 
 his command over this bridge, the Indians mean- 
 while being secreted beneath, and wholly unbe- 
 known to him. The entrance to this subter- 
 ranean chamber is narrow and quite obscure. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of Tallahassee there 
 are several " sinks," into which minor streams flow 
 and disappear. These sinks vary in size ; but those 
 we saw on the edge of the town and upon the 
 farm of Colonel Scott, some two miles out of the 
 city, were perhaps thirty feet in diameter, while 
 their depths were much greater. Quite a number, 
 too, have neither any inlet or outlet so far as any 
 thing visible is concerned ; being evidently fed by 
 the subterranean flow, and subject, in some in- 
 stances, to sympathetic action with the tides of 
 the ocean. 
 
 The most wonderful of the many natural ob- 
 jects in Middle Florida is the famed 
 
 WAKULLA SPRING, 
 
 situated some fifteen miles south of Tallahassee. 
 The only means of access is by private convey- 
 ance, and no one who can should fail to visit it. 
 In the centre of a dense forest of shrubs and trees 
 is found this huge spring, renowned for its trans- 
 
222 A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 
 
 parent and translucent waters. Tliey are so 
 transparent that, when saihng over its surface in a 
 boat, you feel impressed, as you gaze below, that 
 your frail bark is suspended in the air, the water 
 having such an exact resemblance to the sky 
 above you. Any object on the bottom seems as 
 plain as if in your hand. The spring will fathom 
 near one hundred feet by five hundred across its 
 surface. Most of the large springs in this section 
 of the State are strongly impregnated with lime, 
 and seem to flow from under a strata of blue lime- 
 stone, with an inclination to the Gulf. The 
 *'Eobinson Spring," in Jackson County, is hke- 
 wis3 one of interest, but does not repay the visitor 
 as does the one above mentioned. 
 
CHAPTER XYI. 
 
 HINTS TO IMMIGRANTS. --THE SOCIAL CONDITION. 
 
 Value of Land..-Tbe Florida Land Company.-Tho Fernandi.a 
 and Cedar Keves Railroad. - .naucements to Settlers. - What 
 Immicn-ants should do. - Cost of clearing Lands. -Colonies along 
 the St° John's. -Negro Labor.-The Reason of Idleness. - The 
 Poor Basket-.uaker.-His Trials, Sufferings, and Fears. -The 
 Social Condition of the South. - An Un-rcconstructed Carolmian. 
 _ Spirit of the People. - Their Necessities and Prospects. 
 
 Were the lands of Florida ten feet higlier than 
 they now are, its future would be great. No State 
 could then equal it in capacity to maintain a dense 
 population. As it is, ditching and draining will 
 have to be extensively resorted to. Three crops 
 can be taken from the same land in a single year 
 by a judicious system of rotation. 
 
 Many inquiries are made as to the price of lands. 
 The State owns a large portion of the wild lands, 
 and the price, we believe, is fifty cents per acre. 
 At an auction of several thousand acres of unnn- 
 proved lands, held at Jacksonville in April of tins 
 
224 THE FLOEIDA LAND COMPANY. 
 
 year, the prices ranged from twenty-five cents to 
 fifty dollars. Lands fronting on the St. John's 
 E,iver between Jacksonville and Palatka, unim- 
 proved, can be had from five to fifteen dollars, 
 while improved lands — farms — are held at from 
 twenty to thirty dollars. Of these there are, how- 
 ever, but very few, — scarce a dozen, all told, from 
 one end of the river to the other. Again, wher- 
 ever there is an orange-grove, the price is enhanced 
 very greatly ; but of these there will not be found 
 a half-dozen, in bearing, along the whole river. 
 
 There is an association known as the Florida 
 Land Company, with an ofiice in New- York, who 
 own several hundred thousand acres lying along 
 the line of the Florida Railroad. They are 
 perhaps better prepared to give titles, and offer a 
 wider choice in location and quality of lands, than 
 any other parties. To actual settlers they offer 
 very great inducements, charging little, if any thing, 
 m order that the local trade and travel may be in- 
 creased along the line of their railway, seeking by 
 this method to obtain remuneration. Their policy 
 is dictated in wisdom, and at the same time is of the 
 utmost advantage to the settler, and especially to 
 those with limited means. Their lands are adapted 
 
A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 225 
 
 to the growth of the long-staple cotton, so valua- 
 ble in all markets. Sugar-cane and coffee likewise 
 flourish, as also the orange and olive on these lands. 
 
 Their line of railway extends from Fernandina 
 on the Atlantic in a south-westerly direction to 
 Cedar Keyes on the Gulf coast, affording unusual 
 facilities for shipping or receiving any article of 
 commerce, since lines of steamers already make 
 prompt and frequent connection at either end of 
 the road with all parts of the country. It is an 
 important road to Florida, but scarcely less so to 
 the Union, since, by any means should we lose the 
 ^'Key" to the Gulf, this line of railway would 
 afford a quick and sure means of communication 
 to all of the Gulf States. 
 
 The true way for immigrants seeking a home in 
 Florida is to combine, and send out an agent to in- 
 vestigate and report. Any purchase should be 
 made with a view to the establishment of a colonv. 
 In this way they will be able to render to each 
 other great assistance, and can at the same time 
 make their investment in lands to better advantage 
 then if each was to buy or locate on a small tract 
 independently. Tlicy, as a body, could do many 
 things impossible for the individual. 
 
226 TEOUBLESOME INSEC7 
 
 The cost of clearing lands varies from five to 
 thirty dollars per acre, depending upon the kind 
 of lands and manner of clearing. The cheapest 
 is that of clearing the pine lands ; and the man- 
 ner of doing it consists in simply girdling the trees 
 and cutting away the under-brush : the following 
 year there remains nothing but the trunks and dry 
 limbs, which offer no impediment to the rays of 
 the sun sufficient to hinder the growtli of any 
 crop. The more expensive clearing is the hum- 
 mock-lands, where the whole has to be cut down 
 and burnt, and many of the smaller roots re- 
 moved. 
 
 Every company of settlers, who can, should 
 provide themselves with material for a tent. This 
 would give them shelter while preparing their new 
 homes, and be both desirable and inexpensive. Liv- 
 ing in warm climates is, of course, attended with 
 some disadvantages ; but the dread of reptiles and 
 poisonous insects is not well-founded as to Florida, 
 however true it may be of countries in lower lati- 
 tudes. Excepting a single harmless water-snake, 
 we saw no reptiles. 
 
 Musquitoes, in the season for them, and In their 
 favorite haunts, abound, as they do in many local- 
 
A WINTER IN FLOlliDA. 227 
 
 ities at the Korth. The greatest pest, however, 
 is the flea. Some they do not annoj, others 
 escape them entirely ; but this v/ as not our for- 
 tune. Their abundance is partially explained 
 when we remember Josh Billin2:s's assertion, that 
 a careful estimate gives a total of but sixteen 
 deaths per annum, and these from accident ! We 
 unhesitatingly indorse this statement. Think of 
 thirty millions of peoj)le, with industrious habits, 
 being able to overtake only that number ! Be- 
 yond stating that the flea crop of Florida was a 
 full average one the season of our travels, we 
 shall dismiss the matter. It isn't a pleasant one 
 to dwell on. Very j^ious people should travel in 
 some other country. 
 
 We have, in a previous chapter, adverted to the 
 settlement of several Northern colonies alons; the 
 St. John's, and particularly to that at Palatka, the 
 pioneer and leading spirits of which are, we be- 
 lieve, Mr. H. O. Woodruff and the Kev. P. P. 
 Bishop, both formerly active and influential gen- 
 tlemen of Auburn, N.Y. By way of indicating 
 the interest in, and travel to, the State of Florida, 
 as manifested within the last few years, we may 
 mention the fact, that over thirty ladies and gen- 
 tlemen, from the place above mentioned, sat down 
 
22S THE NEGRO — HIS TRIALS. 
 
 at dinner together in Palatka, one day last 
 s])ring. 
 
 Negro labor seems abundant, yet we under- 
 stand tliere is difficulty in securing it. But there 
 are reasons why this is so. They dislike, as a 
 rule, to do any labor for their old masters, since 
 that would seem to them very much like the old 
 system which they now have such a horror of. 
 Again, we suspect the chief reason why the negro 
 is loth to labor is the uncertainty of his wages. 
 The Southern country, immediately after the war, 
 was utterly destitute in everj^ thing, especially of 
 money, and finding they received nothing but 
 promises, the negroes naturally became idle. A 
 couple of crops of cotton has put in circulation 
 among these States considerable currency ; but 
 this was not true of Florida, since her crops have 
 been small, and little of any thing for exportation. 
 Hence the colored people have been compelled to 
 mve their time to buildino; homes for themselves 
 wherever they were permitted to purchase lands 
 and live in quiet. We say "permitted;" for 
 that more nearly expresses the case than any other 
 terra. It seems almost a resolution among the 
 
A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 229 
 
 whites not to dispose of any land to tlie colored 
 people, however much they may be anxious to sell. 
 They are put off with promises ; and, in case of 
 sale, they are charged two prices. It is the one 
 thing dear to the late slave population, a home. 
 They seem very anxious to secure to their families a 
 resting-place, where they shall be free from moles- 
 tation. We met an aged negro, living on Black 
 Creek, a basket-maker, who was working in the 
 shade of a bay-tree, close beside a rude cabin, the 
 temporary home of himself and family. Ap- 
 proaching, we entered into conversation, and 
 learned, from quivering lips, his history and pres- 
 ent circumstances. His story was a touching one. 
 He had toiled for his master half a century, in the 
 broihng sun and chilling winds ; the war had left 
 him a free man : but he was now aged and infirm, 
 and the fruit of his long life of toil was beyond his 
 reach. He had rented this log-cabin, without 
 floor or chimney, and gathered into it his family, 
 and was strufrjzhnix to secure a home of his own. 
 He had commenced life anew, and at a time when 
 most of us end ours. He longed to purchase one 
 of God's acres, where he could build his castle, 
 and read his title clear. He did not mind paying 
 
230 AN AFFECTING STOEY. 
 
 Shylock his price, if the acre could be had. Tears 
 filled the old man's eyes, and his arms grew nerve- 
 less, as he repeated his doubts and fears. His 
 family had gathered round, and the wife, an intelli- 
 gent, thoughtful woman, with eyes fastened intently 
 on the ground, trying, as it were, to solve the mys- 
 teries of Providence, in human affairs. Look- 
 ing out and around us, upon the worn-out and un- 
 improved lands, stretching miles on either side, 
 with scarce a human hand to tend them, yet here 
 was this worthy, industrious, hard-working, and 
 native citizen, half denied the right, in his new 
 condition, to a home among those who recently 
 periled life that he should not go away ! 
 
 This is but one of many cases coming to our 
 knowledge. 
 
 There are no people on the globe so kind 
 hearted, and so cheerful under wrongs and afflic- 
 tion, abiding in the faith of an inscrutable Provi- 
 dence, which, if not understood, is believed to 
 work all things for good, and no people so deserv- 
 ing of considerate and generous treatment from 
 those who were their late masters, as are the 
 negroes of the South. 
 
 The social condition of Florida is much like 
 
A WINTER IN FLOEIDA. 231 
 
 that of other Southern States. The war has 
 broken up not only famiUes, but neighborhoods, 
 and even States ; and what is left is but a wreck 
 of former and more prosperous days. The great 
 questions of State rights and slavery have been 
 settled adversely to the South, and there is no 
 appeal from tlie decision rendered. Of this fact 
 they seem duly conscious; and having thrown 
 every thing into the contest, and lost, they now 
 find themselves destitute, with no time and less 
 inclination to enter into discussions of what are 
 nothino; but dead issues. 
 
 At the close of the war, they were not long in 
 taking account of stock, or of coming to the true 
 solution of their situation. Minus friends, capital, 
 and labor, they wisely concluded to accept the 
 situation, and we believe have done so in good 
 faith, and resolved to put behind them their false 
 leaders, together with their principles, which so 
 led them into the red sea of difficulty. In our 
 travels from New York to and through Florida 
 and home again, we met with but a single 
 Southerner who offensively obtruded his politics 
 into our notice, and who still held that the North 
 was the aggressor. This party we met in South 
 
232 THE SPIRIT OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 Carolina, and he was of the same " chivalrous " 
 type as might have been encountered at any cross- 
 road in South Carolina before the war. What 
 ditch he could have been hid in when Sherman 
 passed that way is beyond comprehension. 
 
 The spirit of the people, taken as a whole, is 
 most excellent, and much better than they have 
 the credit for. There need be, we believe, no 
 apprehension of molestation on this score. All 
 seem intent on getting a living. It would, how- 
 ever, be nothing strange, even with a people 
 disposed to let by-gones be by-gones, if here 
 and there were found uncontrollable characters. 
 
 Much time must necessarily elapse, under 
 favorable circumstances, before all classes, so 
 recently antagonistic, and whose relations have 
 been so abruptly and greatly changed, can quietly 
 assimilate, and, out of the chaos of State and 
 National legislation, with the newly-acquired 
 rights and circumscribed privileges of the two 
 races, settle down together in perfect peace and 
 harmony. It would seem marvelous to see a 
 privileged class, a compact people with absolute 
 authority, shorn in a day, as it were, of all power 
 and reduced politically to a common level with 
 
A WINTER IN FLORIDA. 233 
 
 tlieir late slaves, and not expect a ripple of rebel- 
 lion. And yet this marvelous sight is seen in the 
 South. The late elections in the Southern States, 
 and especially in Virginia, attest these facts. 
 
 So far from there being any animosity toward 
 the immigrant, the people of the South, on the 
 other hand, seem to welcome every new-comer ; 
 and in Florida there is a bureau established to 
 supervise and induce an influx of people from any 
 and every quarter. This is their only resource 
 to build up the State ; and in time, with wise 
 legislation, this can be done. A period of. pros- 
 perity must then dawn on that portion cf our 
 country, such as hitherto they have never seen 
 and little dreamed of. 
 
TABLE OF DISTANCES ON THE ST. JOHNS. 
 
 APPROXIMATELY DETERMINED. 
 
 From Mouth to Jacksonville 23 
 
 " Jacksonville to Mandarin 15 
 
 " Mandarin to Hibernia 9 
 
 " Hibernia to Magnolia 3 
 
 " Magnolia to Green Cove Springs "^2 
 
 " Green Cove Springs to Picolata 11 
 
 " Picolata to Tocoi ^ 
 
 " Tocoi to Palatka T 10 
 
 " Palatka to Dunn's Lake 16 
 
 " Palatka to Welaka 25 
 
 " Welaka to Lake George 12 
 
 " Across Lake George 16 
 
 " Lake George to Volusia 5 
 
 " Volusia to Lake Dexter 5 
 
 " Lake Dexter to Blue Spring 15 
 
 " Blue Spring to Lake Monroe 12 
 
 " Across Lake Monroe to Enterprise 6 
 
 " Lake Monroe to Lake Jessup 6 
 
 " Lake Jessup to Lake Harney 13 
 
 " Lake Harney to Salt Lake 30 
 
 " Salt Lake to Lake Washington 60 
 
^VIA. 
 
 SAVANNAH, GA, 
 
 roR 
 
 AND ALIi POINTS IN THE SOUTH ANB SOUTH-WEST. 
 
 One of the following First-CIass Steamships will sail every other day 
 as follows, — punctually at 3 o'clock, p.m. : — 
 
 EVERY TUESDAY, 
 
 Fi'om Pier 16, E.E., foot of Wall Street, 
 
 Xw.EO &, VITIOO, of Murray's I^ine. 
 
 Murray, Ferris, Ss Co., Agents, 61 and 62 South Street. 
 
 EVERY THURSDAY, 
 
 From Pier 36 i N.R., 
 
 HEKMAN L,rVINGSTON & GEN. BAKNES, of Atlantic 
 Coast M.S.S. Line. 
 
 Livingston, Fox, & Co., Agents, 88 Liberty Street, 
 
 EVERY SATURDAY, 
 
 From Pier S, N.E., 
 SAN SALVADOR & SAN JACINTO, of Empire Line. 
 
 W. R. Garrison, Agent, 5 Bowling Green. 
 
 Making close connections at Savannah with the Central II. R. of Georgia 
 trains twice a day for all points in the South and South-west, and with 
 the Atlantic and Gulf R.R. trains twice a day for all points in Florida; 
 also with steamers Nic King and Lizzie Baker, for points on St. John's 
 River. ,, ,, 
 
 " OVER. ' 
 
On and after this date, the Rates of Passage between 
 New York and the following places ^vill be as fol- 
 lows : — 
 
 Sa-vannali. 
 
 AND VIA CENTRAIi R.R. TO 
 
 Augusta S23.00 
 
 Maoon 37.00 
 
 Atlanta 37.50 
 
 Columbus 31.00 
 
 ^Ubauy 31.50 
 
 Eufaula S33.00 
 
 Montgroinery ... 37.00 
 
 Mobile 45.00 
 
 New Orleans 48.00 
 
 AND VIA ATLANTIC AND GULF R.R. TO 
 
 Jacksonville S35.75 ] Enterprise S33.75 
 
 Hiberuia 38.75 L,ake City 30.33 
 
 Green-Cove Springs 38.75 (^uincy 35.75 
 
 Picolata 38.75 Monticello 33.00 
 
 Oranare MUls 38.75 Tallahassee 34.35 
 
 Palatka 38.75 | 
 
 Including meals and first-class state-rooms on steamships. 
 
 Passengers for St. Augustine purchase tickets to Picolata, thence by 
 stage four hours. 
 
 On comparison, this will be found to be the cheapest as well as the 
 most delightful route to the points above named; the above prices to 
 many points being forty or fifty per cent less than the All-Rail Route ; 
 the time made being nearly as short, with the addition of a table fur- 
 nished with all the luxui'ies of the season, without additional expense. 
 
 Trains leave Savannah morning and evening. Sleeping-cars on all 
 night trains. 
 
 Through Rates of Freight given, and through Bills of Lading signed to 
 all points. 
 
 For *urther particulars, freight or passage, apply to 
 
 MURRAY, FERRIS, & CO., 
 
 61 and 62 South Street. 
 
 I.IVINGSTON, FOX, & CO., 
 
 88 Liberty Street. 
 
 W. R. GARRISON, 
 
 5 Bowling Green. 
 New Tokk, Sept. 15, 1869. 
 
Important to Travelers to Florida. 
 
 The magnificent side-wlieel steamsMps 
 
 MANHATTAN" M. S. Woodhull, Commander, 
 
 CHAMPION R. W. LocKWOOD, 
 
 CHARLESTON James Beriit, '* 
 
 JAMES ADGER T. J. Lockwood, « 
 
 LEAYE NEW-YORK FOR CHARLESTON, S. C, 
 
 Every Tuesday and Saturday, 
 
 At 3 o'clock P. M., from Pier 5, N. K., 
 
 connectinor -with tlie trains on tlie SAVANNAH AND 
 CHARLESTON RAILROAD, and the Charleston and Flori- 
 da steamships " DICTATOR " and " CITY POINT " for Jack- 
 sonville, St. Augustine, and other points in Florida. 
 
 This is the shortest and pleasantest sea route. Travelers 
 have the option of remaining in Charleston at their conve- 
 nience, and viewing the historic 
 
 Ruins of Fort Sumter 
 
 and other points of interest in and around Charleston, and 
 can take their choice of railroad or sea route to Florida. 
 
 These steamships also connect with the trains on the 
 South-Carolina Railroad for AIKEN, S. C, AUGUSTA, Ga., 
 and all points south. 
 
 Through tickets to all points in Florida, South-Carolina, 
 Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee may be obtained at the 
 office of our New- York Agents. 
 
 Charleston has first-class hotel accommodations. 
 
 HENRY B. MORGAN & CO., 
 
 30 Broadway, 
 
 Agents K. T. & C. S. S. Co., Ncw-YorU, 
 
 JAMES ADGER & CO., 
 
 Agents at Charleston, S. O, 
 
Charleston, Savannah, k Florida 
 Steam Packet Line. 
 
 FALL AIJD WINTER SCHEDULE, 
 
 THE FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS 
 
 *' DICTATOR" & "CITY POINT/' 
 
 LEAVE CHARLESTON 
 
 Every Tuesday and Friday; 
 
 SAVANNAH, 
 
 Every AVednes day and Saturday, 
 
 for Fernandina, Jacksonville, Palatka, and intermediate land- 
 ings on tlie St. John's, connecting with the Florida Rail- 
 road at Fernandina; with the Central Railroad at Jackson- 
 ville, and also with steamer " Henry Burden " (at Jackson- 
 ville) for St. Augustine ; with stages for St. Augustine, at 
 Picolati ; with Ocklawaha steamers, at Palatka, for Silver 
 Springs, Lake Harris, Lake Griffin, and with the splendid 
 steamer " STARLIGHT " for Mellonville and Enterprise. 
 
 Through tickets and bills of lading given on board from all 
 points on the St. John's to Savannah, Charleston, Baltimore, 
 Philadelphia, and New- York. 
 
 DRETTJi^jsrinsra-,' 
 
 LEAVE PALATKA 
 
 Every Monday and Friday; 
 
 JACKSONVILLE, 
 
 Every Tuesday and Saturday, 
 
 and Fernandina same afternoon, arriving at Savannah on 
 WEDNESDAY and SUNDAY MORNINGS, and Charleston 
 same afternoon. 
 
 No expense for transferring through freights. 
 
 f J. D. AIKEN & CO., Charleston. 
 L. J. GUILMARTIN & CO., Savannah. 
 Agents,^ JEFFREYS, BRO. & SON, Fernandina. 
 JEFFREYS & BRO., Jacksonville. 
 H. L. HART, Palatka. 
 

 OHAELESTOF, 
 
 This well-known and popular first-class Hotel, 
 situated m the centre of the city, and also in the 
 centre of the wholesale business houses, affords 
 facilities, comforts, and attention to travelers for 
 pleasure and merchants on business second to 
 none in the United States. 
 
 Having recently been thoroughly 
 
 Repaired and Ne^v-Furnished, 
 
 the proprietor pledges himself to spare no pains 
 in its management to maintain the high reputa- 
 tion heretofore enjoyed by the " Old Charles- 
 ton" as a first-class house. 
 
 E. H. JACKSON, 
 
 Proprietor* 
 
Atlantic and Gulf Railroad 
 to Florida. 
 
 The route by this road affords one of the most 
 comfortable, safest, and most expeditious methods 
 of reaching JACKSONVILLE on the St. John's 
 River; also, the only direct line to Madison, 
 Monticello, Tallahassee, and Quincy, all beautiful 
 towns of Middle Florida, and to St. Mark's, on the 
 Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 Fast express trains, with 
 
 "PULLMAIT'S PALACE SLEEPIlTG-CAPwS " 
 
 attached, leave Savannah daily, connecting at 
 Jacksonville with steamers for all points on the 
 St. John's. 
 
 The main trunk leads to the richest and most 
 fertile portions of Southern and South-Western 
 Georgia, in which are situated the thriving and 
 healthy towns of Yaldosta, Quitman, Thomas- 
 
ville, and Baiubridge, at wliich latter place con' 
 nection is made with a 
 
 Line of Fine Steamers 
 
 running to all points on the Flint, Chattahoochee, 
 and Aj^palachicola Rivers. 
 
 At Thomasville a branch extends to Albany, 
 connecting at that point with the South- Western 
 Railroad of Georgia. 
 
 Connection is made at Jessup with the Macon 
 and Brunswick Railroad, for Macon, Atlanta, Nash- 
 ville, St. Louis, Louisville, Memphis, and all North- 
 ern and North-Western cities, to all of which 
 through tickets can be purchased, either at Savan- 
 nah or Jacksonville, and Tallahassee, Florida. 
 
 THROUGH TICKETS 
 
 can be had at Boston, New-York, Philadelphia, 
 Baltimore, and all the 
 
 '> 
 
 PRIKCIPABL. I^^OISLTSSElil^ CITIES, 
 
 either by steamer from those places, or by rail to 
 Jacksonville and all points on the St. John's, via 
 this line. 
 
ikJ ^J 
 
 TmM3 
 
 Wiltberger & Carroll, 
 
 PEOPE.IETOUS, 
 
 SAVANNAH, GA. 
 
The Tallahassee Sl Florida Cen- 
 tral Passenger Line. 
 
 This line — composed of the Atlantic and Gulf 
 Railroad, Brock's line of steamers upon the St. 
 John's, Hartridge and Livingston stage line, be- 
 tween Picolata, on the St. John's, and St. Augus- 
 tine — offers the shortest, most comfortable, and di- 
 rect route to Savannah, Charleston, and to all 
 j)oints North and West. 
 
 ^11 Hail Xlirong-Ii Ticlccts 
 
 Bold at the offices at St. Augustine, Jacksonville, 
 Tallahassee, and upon Brock's steamers to Savan- 
 nah, Charleston, Richmond, Washington, Philadel- 
 phia, New-York, Boston, Chicago, St. Louis, At- 
 lanta, Memphis, New-Orleans, Mobile, and all the 
 principal cities North and West. Fare as low and 
 time quicker than by any other route. Connec- 
 tions certain and easy, and all transfers made in 
 day-time. 
 
 Pullman & Kimball's palace sleeping-cars, with 
 unsurpassed accommodations, on all Express trains. 
 I This line connects at Savannah with a line of 
 steamships for New-York, Boston, Philadelphia, 
 and Baltimore, and at St. Mark's upon the Gulf of 
 Mexico, with the Alliance line of steamships for 
 New-Orleans, Appalachicola, Tampa, Key West, 
 and Havana. 
 
 ^^Srg'^g'^ Olieclied. TliroTig-li. 
 
 Passengers leaving New- York in the morning 
 trains make close connections at all points, and are 
 permitted to stop at all intermediate points. 
 
 B. WALKER, 
 J. B. PAPY, G. T. A. Gen'l SupH. 
 

 Forsvth. & Cedar Sts., 
 
 ACKSON!iLLE, FLA. 
 
 « b- ^1 
 
 PROPRIUTORS. 
 
 This is a first-class Hotel, newly fitted up. 
 Rooms large and airy, all having fire-places. Tra- 
 velers can hand their checks to the Porters of this 
 House with safety. No charge for transferring 
 baggage to Hotel from Railroad depot. Located 
 near the St. John's River, a beautiful view is 
 afibrded, and can not fail to please all who are in 
 quest of health or pleasure. 
 
The St. Augustine Hotel, 
 
 AT 
 
 ST. AUGUSTINE, FLA., 
 
 is an entirely new establishment, having been 
 erected in 1869, and has accommodations for up- 
 ward of one hundred and fifty guests. Visitors 
 to the " Old City " will find this a first-class house. 
 Its location on the Plaza, overlooking it and the 
 
 bay, is unsurpassed. 
 
 F. H. PALMER, ) . , 
 
 E.E.VAILL, 'l^-^*--'-- 
 
 FORD'S HOTEL, 
 
 This house is situated on the crown of the hill 
 adjoining the Capitol Square and Governor's man- 
 sion. Guests will find this house a comfortable 
 and every way satisfactory one. Accommodations 
 first-rate, and charges $2.50 per day. 
 
CATALOGUE OF BOOKS AND MAGAZINES 
 
 PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY 
 
 WOOD & HOLBROOK, 15 LAIGHT ST., MW YORK. 
 
 HESALD OF HEALTH, and Journal of Physical Culture. 
 
 Though professedly a health journal, It takes the broadest meaning of 
 the word health, and includes in it all that relates to physical, moral, 
 and intellectual improvement. Its mission is to teach mankind how to 
 live, so that ignorance, misery, suffering shall be done away, and the 
 reign of health, beauty, and perfection of life shall come in. We want 
 to see the day when health shall take the place of sickness, strength the 
 place of weakness, beauty the place of deformity, and good habits the 
 place of evil ones; temperance substituted for intemperance, a good life 
 for a bad one, and ignorance of one's self be unknown. We ask all who 
 read this to help us, by sending in their own subscriptions and as large 
 clubs as they can, at an early day. Dr. Dio Lewis says, — 
 
 " Dear Dr. Holbrook, — ' The Herald of Health ' delights us. The 
 friends of Physiological Christianity must make it in circulation what 
 you have made it in scope and spirit — cosmopolitan. I am deeply grati- 
 fied with its broad, genial, catholic spirit. It is pleasant to find ' The 
 Herald ' lying side by side with the first-class magazines on our New- 
 England centre-tables. 
 
 "With warm esteem, DIO LEWIS." 
 
 From the Scientific American. 
 " ' The Herald of Health ' is a journal which contains more sensible 
 articles on subjects of a practical moral bearing, than are to be found in 
 any other monthly that comes to our sanctum." 
 
 From the New 'York Tribune. 
 
 " * The Herald of Health ' well sustains the high standard which it has 
 held forth since the commencement of the new series. In fulfilling its 
 task as a ' preacher of righteousness ' in the department of Physical 
 Culture, it enjoys the aid of numerous sound thinkers and able writers, 
 whose contributions give popular interest and permanent value to its 
 contents." 
 
 S3 a Year ; 80 cts. a No. ; 4 Subscribers, ST ; 10 do., S15. 
 
 For $3.35, we send " The Herald of Health » and "The New -York 
 Weekly Tribune " one year. For $3, we send " The Herald of Health " 
 and "The Agriculturist" one year. For thirty subscribers, and $60, 
 we give a Grover & Baker Sewing-Machine, worth $55. We also give 
 Appleton's American Encyclopaedia, in twenty volimies, worth $100, for 
 eisty subscribers, and $120. For $5, "The Herald of Health" and 
 "The Atlantic Monthly," or " Harper's Magazine; " price of each, $4. 
 
Wood Sj" Holbrookes Catalogue. 
 
 JPhysical Perfection. 
 
 Containing Chapter on tlie Structure of the Human Body ; the Perfect 
 Man and Woman; the Temperaments; Laws of Iluman Configuration, 
 Embryology; Childhood; Effects of Mental Culture; Moral and Emo« 
 tional Influences; Social Conditions and Occupations; Effects of 
 Climate and Locality; Direct Physical Culture; Practical Hygiene; 
 Womanhood; the Secret of Longevity; the Arts of Beauty; External 
 Indications of Figure, &c., &c. Beautifully illustrated with one hundred 
 engravings, and handsomely bound. Price, by mail, $1.50. 
 
 The Neiv Hygienic CooJc-Book, 
 
 By MRS. M. M. JONES. 
 This work contains several hundred recipes for cooking the most pal- 
 atable and wholesome food without the use of deleterious compounds. 
 Also, directions for Washing, Ironing, removing Stains, Canning Fruit, 
 &c. Price 30 cents. 
 
 The Turkish Bath; its History and JPhilosoj^hy. 
 
 Br ERASMUS WILSON". 
 
 With Notes and an Appendix by M. L. Holbrook, M.D. This is the 
 only book on the Turkish Bath published in this country. Illustrated. 
 Price 25 cents. 
 
 Woman's JDress, 
 
 With numerous engravings, showing how woman's clothing can be 
 aa^de beautiful, healthful, and comfortable. Price 30 cents. 
 
 The Tree of Life ; 
 
 Or, Human Degeneracy, its Nature and Kemedy. 
 By ISAAC JENNrN"GS, M.D. 
 It contains the following Table of Contents : — Man's Spiritual De- 
 generacy; Physical Depravity; Physiological and Psychological Reform ; 
 Remedy for Man's Spiritual Degeneracy; Man's Physical Degeneracy; 
 Constitution of Humian Physical Life; Vital Economy, or Organic Laws 
 of Life ; Source and Mode of Transmission of the Principle of Human 
 Physical Life; Predispo.sition to Disease; Hereditary Diseases; Mode of 
 Renovation of Impaired and Feeble Vital Machinery; Analysis of a 
 Few of the Most Prominent Symptoms of Disease ; Law of Contagion 
 and General Causation ; Medical Delusion ; Remedy for Man's Physical 
 Degeneracy ; General Directions Resumed ; Specific Directions, — 
 Croup, — Dysentery, — Cholera; Final and Effectual Remedy for Man'a 
 Ptysical Degeneracy. Price, by mail, $1.50. 
 
Wood Sf Holbrookes Catalogue. 
 
 Physical, Intellectual, and Moral Culture; 
 
 OR, 
 
 HOW TO LIVE WELL. 
 By F. G. welch, 
 
 PROFESSOR OF PHYSICAL CULTURE IN YALE COLLEGE. 
 
 This is the most extended and perfect work of its kind ever printed. 
 About one-third of the book is devoted to an explanation of Gymnastics, 
 as taught by Prof. Welch in Yale and other colleges. Another third is 
 devoted to health-culture, and the improvement of the intellect, and 
 such matters as all should know ; and one-third to moral culture. 
 
 Every man and woman who would make the most of life should havo 
 a copy. 
 
 Price $2.25, by mail. 
 
 A Winter in Florida ; 
 
 OR, 
 
 Observations on the Climate, Soil, and Fruits of the State; 
 WITH Hints to the Tourist, Invalid, and Sportsman. 
 
 By ledyard bill. 
 
 This is the most complete work on Eastern Florida and the famed St. 
 John's River yet published. It contains sketches of all the towns and 
 cities along the St. John's, with a detailed description of the scenery, 
 and the wild game which inhabits the country. All contemplating a 
 tour to Florida should possess it. 
 
 About 225 pages, 12mo, with four illustrations. Price $1.25, by mail. 
 
 Any or all of the above works will be sent free, by mail, on receipt 
 of the priue. Address, 
 
 WOOD & HOLBKOOK, 
 
 13 & 15 Laight Street, New York. 
 
THE NEW-YORK IIYGIEMC INSTITUTE, 
 
 Nos. 13 & 15 Laight Street, New -York City. 
 
 A. li. WOOD, M.D., Physician. 
 
 The objects of this institution, which has been in successful operation 
 for more than twenty years, arc two- fold, viz. : — 
 
 1. The treatment and cure of the sick witliout poisoning them, by 
 Hygienic agencies. 
 
 2. To furnish a pleasant, genial Home to friends of Hygiene through- 
 out the world, whenever they visit this city. 
 
 CURE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 Thousands of invalids have been successfully treated at this institu- 
 tion during the past twenty years, and its fame extends wherever the 
 English language is spoken. Its appliances for the treatment of disease 
 without the use of poisonous drugs are the most extensive and complete 
 of any institute in America. They compi-ise the celebrated 
 
 Turkish Baths, Electric Baths, Vapor Baths, Swedish 
 Movement Cure, Machine Vibrations, 
 
 the varied and extensive resources of the WATER CURE, LIFTING- 
 CURE, MAGNETISM, Healthful Food, a Pleasant Home, &c. Par- 
 ticular attention is given to the treatment of all forms of CHRONIC 
 DISEASE, especially of Rheumatism, Gout, Dyspepsia, Constipation, 
 Torpidity of the Liver, "Weak Lungs and Incipient Consumption, Pa- 
 ralysis, Poor Circulation, General Debility, Curvature of the Spine, 
 Scrofula, Diseases of the Skin, Uterine "Weaknesses and Displacements, 
 Spermatorrhoea, &c. Any one wishing further information, should send 
 FOR A CiucuLAR, containing further particulars, terms, &c., which will 
 be sent free by return mail. 
 
 BOARDING DEPARTMENT. 
 
 We are open at all hours of the day and night for the reception of 
 boarders and patients. Our location is convenient of access from the 
 Railroad depots and Steamboat landings, and to the business part of the 
 city. Street cars pass near the doors to all parts of the citj', making it a 
 very convenient stopping-place for persons visiting the city upon busi- 
 ness or pleasure. Our table is supplied with the Best Kinds of Food, 
 Healthfully Prepared, and Plenty of it. In these respects it ia 
 unequalled. Come and see, and learn how to live healthfully at home. 
 Terms reasonable. 
 
 Drs. WOOD i<i HOLBRCOI^, Proprietors: