TS 1765 .P4 Copy 1 I - ' THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY 40 40 40 A BOOK of reference containing £ ^/JL definitions and explanations of upwards of 2,200 words, terms and expressions used in dry goods and general store work and connected indus- tries, to which is appended many useful tables and a defined list of shoe and leather trade terms. Intended for ready reference and constant use at counter and desk. 40 40 40 Compiled and gdited byl F. M. ADAMS of The Drygoodsman staS 40 40 40 Shoe and Leather Terms by J. H. BOLTON and CARL C. IRWIN of the staff of The Shoe #■ Leather Gazette 40 40 40 Published by THE DRYGOODSMAN ST. LOUIS 1912 COPYRIGHT 1912 BY THE TRADESMEN'S PUBLISHING CO i ^CI,A312083 # FOREWORD XN THE preparation of this work two main objects have been kept in view — to produce a simple dictionary that shall con- tain the words and terms with which dry goods and general store workers come in contact defined or explained as tersely as possible, and to bring it forth in durable form at a moderate price. No attempt has been made at introducing encyclopedic features be- cause such effort carried to a proper finish would make a book too great in size and too full of long explanations to be of so common service as this book is intended to be. The cost of such a work would eliminate from the list of purchasers that vast army of young people learning the business who have the greatest need for a dictionary. It is this class that especially needs a book that may be in the pocket or in the fixtures at a handy place at all times. These business people have no time to ponder over extended articles on preparation and manufacture, any more than has the man in the office who suddenly comes across a word or a term unfamiliar to him. ' It has been the endeavor to give herein the shortest possible definition, and if anyone wishes more complete infor- mation it is best to consult some of the numerous voluminous encyclo- pedias that are to be found in every public library or in the private libraries of some people in every town. , The editor remembers his desire, as a green clerk, to possess a dry goods dictionary but the price of the only one then in existence was higher than he could afford to pay. That fact has been a large incentive in the preparation of this work — to get it into the hands of every clerk in every store at a time when it is most needed. The cost is not pro- hibitive to any such who have the desire for information. Words and terms of most common use and familiarity are avoided, as, clerk, clothes, retail, wholesale, etc. Details in definition have been avoided excepting for words or terms where it has been necessary in order to distinguish kinds under the same head, as in carpets and dyeing. Private brands and proprietary words have also been avoided as not concerning particularly the goods themselves. Colors and shades of color have been omitted because everyone in the business should know the staples and it is not only impossible to describe a shade so it may be recognized but the constant changes of the seasons make it impossible and impracticable to describe all. This is not an unabridged work. Some words and terms are un- doubtedly omitted as well as localisms that should have a place herein. Anyone finding such omissions or discovering something new that should be written herein will confer a favor on the editor and publishers as well as on the trade by making it known so it may appear in future editions. It is suggested to the clerk that he keep his copy always at hand and if a customer asks for something unusual he consult this dictionary before he informs the customer he hasn't the goods or there is no such thing. It is suggested to the merchant that he keep his dictionary as ready for his hand as he does his pen or his receipt book. F. M. ADAMS. 1912. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY Abb. — Warp yarn. Abee. — A mixed fabric of cotton and wool made in Syria. Abolla. — An ancient loose cloak of wool, fastened at the neck. Accordion Pleating. — Any fabric arranged Into fine, narrow pleats over its entire surface, permanently pressed and hav- ing the appearance of an accordion bel- lows — hence the name. Afghan. — A soft blanket made of knitted or crocheted woolen yarns, in fancy colors, and used as a couch cover or carriage robe. Agave (a-gah've). — Fleshy leaved plants, of which the century plant is a type, found chiefly in tropical America. The woody fiber of the leaves is sometimes made into thread and ropes and used in the manufacture of paper. Used similarly to Sisal Hemp. See Istle. Aglet. — A round white stay-lace used in drapery. An ornamental pendant or spangle. Agraffe (a-graf). — A clasp or ornament of metal for millinery purposes. Agra Gauze. — A thin, diaphanous silk fabric used for trimming and in mil- linery. Aigrette or Aigret (a-gref). — A stiff plume. Sometimes also applied to "egret", which see. Alguilette (a-gwil-Ief). — An ornamental tag or decoration worn by military of- ficers on the right shoulder and breast. Ajour (ah-zhoor). — An openwork or translucent effect. Alamode (ah-lah-mode')- — A highly fin- ished thin silk formerly used in the making of hoods; now used in mil- linery and neckwear. Alb. — A richly trimmed long linen vest- ment worn by priests. A garment worn by newly baptized. Albatross. — A plain-faced wool dress goods, very soft and fine. Sometimes also called Vicuna and Snowflake. Albert Cloth. — A heavy wool goods of double face, perfectly finished, having different designs and colors on each face. Of the same character as Golf Cloth. Alpaca. — A very smooth, giossy dress goods, sometimes plain and sometimes loom-figured, made of cotton warp and a filling spun from the fine wool of the Alpaca sheep, or cameloid, which lives in the mountains of South America; also an imitation made with mohair or sheep's wool in place of alpaca wool. Allover. — Embroideries and lace materials in which the design or pattern extends over the entire surface of the fabric. Alpine. — A soft-crown, shaped-brim hat worn by men. A dress goods of silk warp and wool filling woven with a double twill. Altar Cloth. — Strips of silk or linen with embroidered ends, used for spreading across a church altar on certain oc- casions. Aman. — A blue cotton cloth made in eastern Mediterranean countries. Amana Goods. — Name used to designate fabrics and yarns manufactured by the Amana Community, Amana, Iowa. Amazone Cloth. — A wide woolen dress fabric, similar to ladies' cloth. American Cloth. — A term applied in England to the glazed cotton cloth known in the United States as Enam- eled Cloth and used in upholstery. Andalusian Wool. — A soft, tightly twist- ed worsted yarn. Angola Cloth. — A stout cotton fabrie woven with uneven surface and used in fancy work. Angora Wool or Mohair. — The hair or wool of the Angora goat, a native of Asia Minor, used in making mohair, brilliantine and Sicilian. Angora Cashmere.— A fine light dress goods of twilled weave, similar to cam- el's hair. Aniline. — A product of the distillation of coal tar, which will produce dyes through the action of various chemi- cals. G THE DRTGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Antlmacasser (an'ti-ma-kas'er). — A cov- ering made for the backs and arms of chairs and other furniture to protect the upholstering. An English term, same as American Tidy. Alsatian Bow.— A term used in millin- ery to describe a large flat bow, the loops and ends of even lengths on each side. Amice (am'is). — An ecclesiastical head- dress. Antique (an-teek'). — A pattern, design, or finish, that is intended to imitate the products of ancient times. Appenzell (ap'pents-el') Embroidery.— Named after and made in a small can- ton in Switzerland. Very fine hand embroidery, the buttonhole and blind patterns mostly used. Applique (ap-pli-kay'). — Materials cut out and sewed, embroidered or pasted on other materials. Apron. — An easily detachable article of apparel made in various styles and used for covering the front of the dress more or less completely. Arabesque (ar-a-besk').— A fanciful or- namentation, copied from Arabian dec- orations, consisting of figures, lines, animals and sometimes human beings combined in relief. Pure arabesque has no representations of living beings, be- cause forbidden by the Koran. Areophane (ar-o-fane').— An extremely thin variety of silk crepe. Armozlne (ar-mo-zeen'). — A plain silk, formerly used for clerical robes and for dresses two centuries ago. A taffeta. Armure (ar'mewr). — A chain weave in which the threads are thrown in alter- nating small pebbled design. Used in silks and dress goods. Arras. — A tapestry woven with colored figures or scenes and used for curtains or for wall hangings. Arrasene. — A chenille-like cord of silk or wool used in making raised em- broidery. Art Embroidery.— Needle work done in colored silk upon linen or other ma- terial. Art Fabric. — Material used for decora- tive purposes. Art Square. — See Carpet terms. Asbestos. — A whitish fibrous mineral, easily separable and of flax-like ap- pearance. It is compressed into sheets or cloth and twisted into soft ropes used for packing and to prevent radiation of heat. Ascot — Tie. — A combination of a neck- band and a broad flat tie for women. Collar is in stock form; tie is made in two parts, one of which overlaps the other. Astrakhan. — The pelts from young lambs reared in the mountainous districts of Astrakhan, Russia. The name given to a heavy fabric made of cotton base and a surface of mohair woven in imitation of the curled hair of the Astrakhan sheep. Atlas — A cotton and silk fabric finished with a gloss on one side and inter- laced with satin weaves. Much used for linings. Aubusson (aw-bus-son'). — A tapestry made for wall hangings and upholstery, in Aubusson, France. Aune (own).— The French ell of 1% yards, formerly in common use through- out many European countries, but now displaced by the meter. Foreign silks are usually folded in aune lengths, giv- ing rise to the custom of iy t yard folds in domestic silks. B. Backed Cloth.— A class of worsted fab- rics for men's wear, woven with an ex- tra layer of warp or filling to add weight and warmth. Baize (bayz). — A woolen fabric former- ly finished with a short, close nap, dyed in plain colors and used for dress goods; at present very closely woven and used for upholstery. Balbriggan. — Cotton underwear and ho- siery of selected brown or unbleached fiber, originally made in Balbriggan, Ireland. Baleen (bah-leen').— The horny plates from the head of a whale before manu- facture into "whalebone". Raw whale- bone. Balloon- Net.— A lace net in which the peculiar twist of warp and filling threads produces an appearance like the net which confines the gasbag of a bal- loon. Ballymena (bal'ly-me'na).— Certain linen goods produced at Ballymena, Ireland. Balmoral (bal-mo'ral).— Heavy dress ma- terials of extraordinary durability. A cheap petticoat of cotton goods. A peculiar skirt, or tartan, worn by THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Scotch. A boot lacing up in front (see Shoe Terms in Appendix). A Scotch cap. Named from Balmoral Scotland. Bandanna. — Originally a large, bright- colored silk handkerchief manufactured in India, in which the figures were formed by tying knots in the cloth or by pressure during dyeing. The com- mon cotton bandanna is decorated by a process of bleaching out the color to form the figures. Bandeau (ban-do'). — A band or part of a band placed in the headsize of a hat to raise part or the whole of it. Also an ornament for the hair. Same as fillet. Banding. — Term applied to lace, em- broidery and trimming which is shown in band form. Is usually finished at the edges. Barege (ba-rayzh'). — A fabric of silk or cotton warp and soft wool fillinsr, used as a heavy veiling or somtimes as a liirht dress goods. Originally made in Bareges, French Pyrenees. Barracan (bar'a-kan). — A thick, strong, water-proof material of wool, or wool combined with silk or cotton, and used for men's clothing; originally made of camel's hair. Also a camlet made in France. (See Camlet.) Barras. — A coarse linen fabric from Hol- land. Barre (bah-ray'). — Any pattern pro- duced by stripes or bars extending crosswise of the goods. Barred Muslin. — See Nainsook. Barrette (bar-ref). — Originally designat- ing a small head covering, as a cap or bonnet, now used for a hair orna- ment which holds the back hair in place. Barrow. — A sleeveless garment for In- fants; a pinning blanket. Also writ- ten Barrow Coat. Basket Cloth. — Any cloth with a pat- tern made in imitation of the peculiar appearance of baskets. Basket Weave. — Style of weave in which the plaited work of a basket is repro- duced in the pattern. Basque (bask). — A short-skirted jacket or dress waist. Basquine (bas-keen'). — A style of skirt or petticoat worn by Basque women and some Spanish women. Bath Robe. — A loose-fitting garment ex- tending from the shoulders to the floor; worn for protection on emerging from the bath. Batiste (ba-teesf). — Originally a fine all linen lawn, plain or printed. At present the name is applied to a fine cotton. Batting. — Raw cotton or wool laid in light matted sheets and marketed in rolls. Baudekin (baw'de-kin). — A rich em- broidered or brocaded silk fabric of the middle ages woven originally at Bag- dad with a warp of gold threads and silk filling. Bayadere (bah-yad-air'). — P a 1 1 e r n of plain or figured stripes that run across the fabric; usually the colors of the stripes contrast with those adjoining. The opposite of Pekin. Bayal. — A variety of fine cotton. Bayeta (bah-ya'lah). — A coarse woolen Spanish cloth of the character of baize. Beads. — Small perforated ornaments made to be strung on threads and worn as jewelry and trimming. Beading. — A lace or embroidery inser- tion made with a row of holes to run ribbon through. Bearing Cloth. — The cloth covering of a child when borne to its baptism. Christ- ening Cloth. Beaver Fur. — (See Fur.) Beaver. — A heavy thick woolen cloth similar to doeskin; the wrong side is finished with a soft thick nap. Used for overcoats and cloaks. A hat of beaver fur or an imitation. Beaverteen. — A heavy cloth of twilled weave with an uncut looped face. Used for clothing requiring rough wear. A cotton fustian. Bedford Cord. — A weave used in dress goods similar to cotton pique, consist- ing of heavy ribs running lengthwise in the fabric. Used in both woolen and cotton goods. Bed Pocket. — A small bag hung in a handy place on the bed, which may be used as a receptacle for articles needed during the night. Beetling. — Finishing cloth by beating with a beetle as it passes over a roller. Beige (bayzh). — Dress fabrics of smooth texture produced by using yarn in which the colors are mixed. Originally of undyed, unbleached wool. Belt. — A flat strip or band of any flex- ible material girding the waist as an ornament or to support or hold gar- ments. A girdle. THE DRTGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Bengallne (ben-gal-ene'). — A smooth, plain, round, corded weave of silk and wool, in which the wool i s covered by the silk. Imitations have silk or cot- ton substituted for the wool. Berlin Wool. — A fine woolen yarn used for fancy work. Benjy.— A straw hat with low crown and broad brim; also a waistcoat. Beurre (bur- ray'). —The light yellowish tint, especially in laces, a little deeper than cream. Named from a French pear. Bib.— A small shaped napkin worn by children while eating. Bicycle Stockings.— See Knit Goods Terms. Binding.— A folded or doubled strip of material used to cover the raw edges of fabric or leather, for strengthening, for finishing, or to prevent fraying or raveling. Bird's-eye — A linen or cotton fabric woven in small pattern that is sup- posed to resemble a bird's eye; used for fancy work, towels and infants' wear. Also written birdseye. Biretta — A headdress of skull cap char- acter for men, and made in varying shapes for different professions. Biretz — A reversible dress fabric of wool. or silk and wool, twilled on one side and ribbed, or corded, on the other. Bishop.— Term usually applied to a style of sleeve for women; also a child's dress. Sleeve is full at the wrist and held in place by band or cuff. Dress is cut straight from the neck like a Bish- op's robe. A bustle. A child's bib. Blanket — A heavy piece of wide cloth, woven of wool, or cotton, or of cotton and wool, of soft texture and brushed on both sides. Used principally as a bed covering, but is a term of general application for protective coverings. Blazer.— A light-weight coat of flannel or silk worn by both men and women. Name originated from a scarlet sport- ing jacket. Bleaching — The process of whitening textile fibers and fabrics by use of chemical baths or exposure to sun and weather. Blind Design.— A term used in embroid- ery to describe a design which is worked solid and where the cloth un- derneath is not cut. Blonde Lace.— See Lace Terms. Bloomers. — Loose, baggy trousers worn by women and children. Originally an entire costume. Introduced in 1850 by Mrs. Bloomer, of Waterloo, N. Y. Blouse.— A loosely fitting waist for either sex, usually worn belted or shirred at the waist line. The English shirtwaist. Boa. — A long wrap for the neck, made of fur or other warm and protective materials, deriving its name from its snake -like appearance. Bobbinet — A cotton net of threads par- tially twisting around each other, so as to produce hexagonal meshes. Lev- er's Lace. (See Laces.) Bocasin.— A silk-finished fine linen. An Eastern Mediterranean cotton fabric. A variety of calamanco. A fine buckram. Written also Bocasine. Booking. — A coarse woolen cloth of drug- get weave originally made in the town of Bocking, Essex county, England. Bodice.— Any tightly-fitted waist. An ornamental outer waist laced like a corset. An old style of corset with lac- ing in front. Bodkin.— A needle with a large eye and a blunt point used for drawing tape through a hem; an instrument with a sharp point used for piercing holes in cloth, to be made into eyelets or for fancy work; a long pin for holding the hair. Bokhara — A diaphanous silk of natural color in which a weave of taffeta is produced. Bolero (bo-lay'ro).— A small, short jack- et of Spanish origin, with or without sleeves, plain or ornamented, loose at the waist line and not reaching below that point. Bolivar (bol'i-var).— A light, fine French flannel, usually gray. Bolster. — A long sub-pillow reaching across the bed, stuffed with feathers, hair or other soft material. Sometimes made ornamental and placed on top of the made-up bed. Bolt. — A complete piece of rolled, or folded fabric; applied to piece goods, ribbons, laces, etc. Bolting Cloth — A strong fine cloth of linen or unsized silk, usually the latter, used in flouring mills for separating the product; also a light silk cloth used for fancy work. Bombast.— Soft, loose stuff used for pad- ding. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Bombazine (bom-ba-zeen'). — A fine twill- ed fabric of silk warp and wool filling, having a heavy sheen. Formerly made only in black and used as a mourning fabric. Bootee (boo-tee'). — A crocheted or knit- ted shoe for infants. Book Muslin. — A material similar to crinoline used in book making and some- times in dressmaking. A 1 sheer muslin put up in bookfold. Bookfold. — The style of folding certain tine cloths by doubling once length- wise and twice crosswise and market- ing in fixed lengths of multiples of 12 yards. Bookbinders' Cloth. — A sized colored cot- ton cloth, used for binding some grades of books. Botany Yarn. — Yarn made from fine Australian wool and used in making worsted dress goods. Boucle (boo-clay'). — Cloth with loops or curls appearing irregularly in the sur- face. Bourette (bur-ret')- — An effect in weav- ing which throws fancy yarns into knobs or knots that form designs or appear at regular intervals. Bouillonne (boo-yon-nay'). — The general effect of shirred or frilled trimmings on a garme t, or the shirred chiffon edg- ings of ruffles or plaitings. Bournous (bur-noos' or bur'noos). — A long cloak with a hood, worn by Arabs and Moors. A loose sleeveless cloak with a hood worn by women in Europe and America. Box Cloth. — A beaver cloth of extra quality. Box Coat. — A heavy greatcoat with a cape worn by coachmen and coach travelers. An unfitted coat hanging loosely from the shoulders. Box Plait. — A double fold or plait formed by folding the cloth alternately in op- posite directions so as to form a kind of plait from each side. Braces. — See Suspender. Braid. — A woven or braided flat band, or strip, of any fiber. Used as a trim- ming or binding. Brandenburgs. — Oblong buttons thickest at the middle, made of a mold covered with thread and usually attached to a braided ornament, designed to button into opposite loops. Frogs. Brassiere (bras- se'er). — French term for brace, now applied to a tight, stayed under-bodlce for women. Breadth.— A single length of textile. A width of goods composing a garment, as in a skirt. Breakfast Shawl.— A small woolen shawl, usually knitted or crocheted. Breeches. — A man's garment reaching from the waist to the knees, or a little below, and made to cover each leg sep- arately. Trousers and pantaloons are not breeches. Bretelles (bray-tells').— The French name for braces or suspenders. Also shoul- der trimming for women's dresses. Bride. — A loop, or tie, of thread, made in lace or needlework, to bind portions together. A bonnet string. Broadcloth.— A high grade woolen or worsted cloth, woven with a twill, fulled, slightly napped and glossed in the fin- ishing. Medium and light weights used for clothing; hefvy weights used for carriage and other upholstery. Name erroneously applied to many cloths 50 to GO inches wide. Best broadcloths are usually marketed folded and wrapped in tillots. Broad Lace.— See Lace Terms. Brocade.— Any fabric in which the pat- tern is made to appear in relief, pro- duced by manipulation of the threads in the loom. First made in Europe in 1757. Previously brought from the Orient, where it was decorated with gold and silver threads. Brocatel (brock'a-tel).— A, coarse bro- cade, woven of silk, cotton, wool or unions of those fibers. Used principally in upholstery. Broche (bro-shay'). — A French word ap- plied to goods containing a raised fig- ure or design, usually in imitation of stitching or embroidery. Applied to shawls popular in the last century. Brode (bro-day'). — Embroidered effects or an ornamental edge or border. Brunswick. — A once fashionable coat for women, of mannish style, with wide cuffs, collar and lapels. Brush Binding. — A binding with a braid back and a brush-like edge of loose mohair or coarse wool used for the bot- tom of skirts as a protector. Buckle. — A device formed of a frame which holds hinged teeth, or catches, used to fasten bands or Btrips together. 10 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. In ornamental designs used for millinery and dress trimming and shoe decora- tions. Buckram. — Coarse, plain-woven linen or cotton cloth, heavily sized, for use as a stiffening in garment making. Buckskin. — A twilled cloth of the nature of doeskin, but somewhat heavier, named from fancied resemblance in toughness to real deerhide Bugle. — A tubular glass bead, usually black, used for dress ornaments in pas- sementerie and fringes. Bulgarian. — Term applied to embroidery that was originally made in .Bulgaria. The embroidery is done on a coarse foundation and the simple cross stitch is used. Blue, red and yellow are the predominating colors. Bullion Fringe. — A heavy, twisted cord fringe, having intermixed fine gold or silver threads. Much used for orna- menting military garments and for trim- mings flags, banners and regalias. Bunting.— A soft light, plain cloth, white and also dyed in solid colors, made in various widths. Silk bunting and wool bunting used for flags and dresses. In cotton used as a substitute and for many other purposes, and known also as Cheese Cloth. Burgee (.bur-gee')- — A long, narrow flag or pennant ending in a swallow-tail. Burlap. — A strong, coarse stuff made of jute, flax, hemp, or manila, used for merchandise wrappings, in upholstery and for floor coverings; the finer grades used for decorative purposes. Burnoose. — Same as Bournous. Busk. — A thin, elastic stiffening strip of any material, placed in corsets and gar- ments of like character to stiffen the front of them. Applied also to the gar- ment. Buster Brown. — Term applied to a style in children's and women's dress, which is copied after the dress worn by Bus- ter Brown of cartoon fame. A belt below waistline, flat, stiff collar and side fastenings are the characteristics of this fashion. Bustle (bus'sel). — A light cushion or pad of various construction worn by women to distend the skirts at the rear top. Butchers' Linen. — A plain, stout, coarse- threaded linen, from 30 to 40 inches wide, bleached and brown, finished smooth, used largely for fancy work. and also for butchers' aprons, whence the name. Butter Cloth. — A light, open muslin, once used to wrap rolls of butter, hence the name. Same as "cheese cloth". Butternut. — A coarse, brown cloth used for men's clothing; so-called from the color produced by the yellowish -brown dye from butternut bark and leaves. Button. — A knob or disk of hard ma- terial a*tached by means of perfora- tions to one edge of a garment in such a position as to be passed through a buttonhole on the opposite edge. Also used as ornaments. Byron Collar. — A sailor collar after the style of those familiar in pictures of Lord Byron. Byssus (bis'sus). — A fine yellowish flax of ancient times, and the linen cloth made from it. The "fine linen" of the Bible. Any costly white fabric. C. Cabas (cab'ah). — A woman's work bag or any small satchel. Cabaya (cah-bah'yah). — A light cotton coat worn in the East Indies. Cabochon (cab-o-shon'). — A round buckle or brooch. A carbuncle-shaped stone cut but not polished. Cachemire (cash'meer). — In weaving, a name given to designs resembling Per- sian patterns. Cachepeigne (cash-pane'). — Literally the "hide comb". Any trimming on a hat that fulfills this purpose, but more cor- rectly the trimming should be placed beneath the back brim. Caddis. — A coarse serge; a narrow worsted tape, or ribbon. Caffa. — A rich silk of the 16th century; an East Indian figured cotton goods. Caftan. — An undercoat with long sleeves, bound with a sash or girdle. Calamanco. — A glossy woolen fabric, twilled or plain, sometimes warp-dyed, so as to show stripes or checks on one side when woven. A garment made of calamanco. A glazed linen. Calash. — A woman's hood of silk, made over a hoop-like framework, formerly much worn. Calendering. — The smoothing and glaz- ing of linen or cotton cloth by passing between rollers that are usually heated. Calico. — In America, a cotton cloth with THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 11 a figure printed on one side — a print; in England, any white cotton cloth, as ordinary American "muslin". Cambraslne (cam-bra-zeen')- — A fine lin- en, cambric or batiste. Cambric. — Properly a fine, plain-woven linen, made in Cambray, France, but now the name is applied to any fine, thin, calendered muslin, and to a glazed cotton goods used for linings. Camellne (cam'e-leen). — A medieval twilled fabric originally made of cam- els' hair, but imitated in cheaper ma- terials. Also the garment made of the cloth. Camel's Hair. — A loosely woven woolen fabric in which a very long fiber is em- ployed. It is composed of the finest worsted. Camlet (cam'let). — A strong, tight, near- ly water-proof cloth of camels' hair or imitation, employed chiefly in the manu- facture of women's cloaks and wraps. Caniche (can-eesh). — An arrangement of hair so placed as to conceal a comb. Canille (can-neel')- — A style of weave in which an imitation is attempted of the regular joints in a bamboo or cane stalk. Cannequin (can-e-kin'). — An East Indian white cotton cloth. Cannele. — A channel effect in weaving, giving lengthwise stripes in raised or lowered effect on the goods in small patterns. A striped taffeta silk. Canopy. — A suspended covering, orna- mental or useful, as an altar canopy, or an awning, or a bed canopy. Canotier (can-o-te-yay'). — Dress fabrics suitable for canoeing or sailing wear, hence the name. Sailor style in cloth or hat. Canton Flannel.— Stout twilled cotton cloth brushed to a heavy nap on one side; finished in bleached and natural and dyed and printed in colors. Used in white and natural for underwear, in colored for upholstery. Same as Cot- ton Flannel. Canvas — A heavy, strong cloth of linen, hemp, or cotton, for sails, tents and coverings. A cloth of linen, cotton, or silk, of various weaves and finishes, used for fancy work. CANVAS TERMS. Aida C. (ah-ee-dah). — Plain linen some- what resembling Java and Connaught in thread and weave. Congress C. — Thin and somewhat open, woven with a hard cotton thread. Connaught C. — A cotton canvas similar in weave to Java. Honeycomb C. — White cotton, imitating the regular cells of honeycomb. Ida C. — Loose and open, of unbleached linen yarns. Java C. — Woven of cotton, linen and wool in double yarn, includes also a plain worsted, the warp and weft each being formed of two yarns laid together in the loom. Mummy C— Woven and dyed in imita- tion of ancient mummy cloth. Panama C. — Woven and dyed in imita- tion of plaited Panama straw. Penelope (pe-nel'o-pe) C. — Net-like in weave, stiffened by sizing. Plain Worsted C — A variety woven of thick worsted threads in the ordinary manner, both threads being used dou- ble. Railroad or Net C— A stiff linen or cot- ton with coarse, open mesh. Silk C. — Is woven of coarse silk threads; used mainly for embroidery work. Cape. — A circular, sleeveless, outer gar- ment of various lengths, hanging from the shoulders. Capote (ca-poht'). — A hooded cloak worn by soldiers and sailors; a long, loose mantle. Cardigan Jacket. — A protective jacket of knitted or crocheted woolen or cotton yarn, close-fitting and buttoned in front. Practically the predecessor of the "sweater". Carding The preparation of textile fib- ers by combing and cleansing before drawing into yarns. Carpet. — A floor covering made of heavy yarns of cotton, wool, hemp, or other fiber, usually woven in patterns or de- signs. Marketed in long strips made in- to rolls, it is known as carpet; complete designs for a single floor are usually termed rugs. CARPET TERMS. Aristo C. — Practically the same as the American moquette. Art Square. — A large ingrain rug; some- times called drugget. Aubusson C— A one-piece carpet of ex- pensive manufacture, woven in embroid- ery designs after intricate Oriental pat- 12 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. terns, of which it is largely an imita- tion. The cost prohibits general use. Axminster C. — Properly a very rich, closely-woven, heavy pile fabric of great durability and beautiful colorings, but the word is ordinarily used to desig- nate a carpet made similarly to mo- quette but of heavier quality. Named from Axminster, England. Bath Rug. — A rug of woven fabric or other construction intended for the bath- room floor. Brussels C. — The corrugated surface of brussels is produced by high-grade worsted yarns woven over wires that form loops standing closely together, running transversely on the piece. The worsted, when riot required on the sur- face to form the pattern is worked into the back of the fabric as other colors are brought up into the design. The back is composed of heavy jute and hemp threads which make weight and stiffness. Brussels is made in four, five and six-frame, indicating the weight and closeness of the fabric, according to the number of separate colored yarns used in making the pattern. Chenille C. — Same as Patent Axminster. Cork C. — See Kamptulicon, under gen- eral definitions. Drugget. — See general definitions. Some- times applied to Art Square. Felt C. — A fabric not woven but com- pressed or matted by the frlting pro- cess. Rarely, a carpet made of strips of felt sewed together so as to present the edges for a wearing surface. Fiber C. — A light material of patented texture, compose I of yarn warp and a twisted fiber filling. Filling. — Any carpet of solid color used outside of rug or in other places re- quired to be covered or "filled". Some- times called Terry. Hemp C. — Woven like ingrain out of hemp or jute fiber. Ingrain C. — May be of cotton or wool warp with a cotton or wool filling, woven a yard wide. The loom is made to carry two or three separate webs, i. e., separate, or distinct, warps and fi'lings, which are intermingled to pro- duce the patterns, thus showing one color in the figure on one side and an- other color on the other side. When woven with two webs It is two-ply, when woven with three webs it is three ply — one ply being between the out- side colors — permitting of a more elab- orate pattern and producing ;. very heavy fabr'c. Ingrr.in is a word used to signify dyed in the grain, or yarn, before weaving. Kidderminster is the English namo for ingrains, because manufactured principally at Kidder- minster, England. A hundred years ago they were known as Scots, because made in Scotland. Super is a word used in descriptions of ingrain carpets. A plain Super has 960 ends of warp threads to the yard width and 12 pairs of filling threads to the inch. Extra Super has 1,080 ends of warp threads to the yard width and 13^ pairs of filling threads to the inch. The cheaper grades have less threads and less body. Half wool is cotton warp and wool filling seldom heavier than Super. Union is of mixed cotton and wool, sometimes cotton warp and wool filling but usually of heavy quality with cot- ton warp and part cotton filling made in Extra Super count. The lower grade Unions and cottons are of uncertain quality and have no standard of com- position. Knitted C. — Made from strips of cloth knitted on wooden needles into nar- row breadths which are sewed together to show a mixed surface or a striped design. List C. — Similar to Rag. The filling is list or other strips of waste cloth; the warp is the common cotton warp of the rag carpet. Moquette C. — A coarse-back fabric with a deep tufted pile surface woven by a loom in which the surface yarns are fixed and cut one row at a time without the wires of the brussels and velvet looms. The possibilities of pattern and color effects are very great. It is dis- tinctly an American product. Paper C. — Compressed from a paper pulp composition produced by submitting the pulp to chemical action; has something of the appearance of Linoleum. Patent Axminster. — Has a heavy filling of especially prepared long strips of chenille which are woven into a strong back of linen or hemp. Called also Chenille C. Pick. — Designates fineness by reference to the number of tufts or threads to the inch. Rag C. — Composed of heavy cotton warp, plain or colored, and a filling of rags torn in narrow strips and sewed or tied THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 13 together, usually ingrain ayed and ar- ranged to produce a pattern of stripes. Formerly made entirely on hand looms but now produced on power looms. Savonnerie C. — Properly an expensive silk carpet woven in a single piece, pro- duced in Savonnerie, France, but also used to designate a very fine quality of American goods made similarly to Moquette and Axminster. Tapestry C. — Has a solid backing or foundation of jute and hemp and a face of worsted yarn woven in loops over wires in a manner similar to Brus- sels. These yarns are printed in the colors which form the pattern on great drums before weaving in distinction from Brussels which is dyed solid in the yarn. The printing is in blotches of color which form the pattern after weaving, which is similar to Brussels excepting that the surface, or worsted, yarns do not run through the back. Quality is determined by the weight of the back and the number of wires used to the inch in weaving. Terry. — Plain. solid-color carpeting. Same as Filling. Velvet C. — A tapestry the loops of which have been cut similarly to Wilton. The better grades are capable of very rich pattern effects and are often sold for genuine Wilton. Venetian C. — The original Venetian was made of a worsted warp in colors and a filling of hemp or jute nearly always dyed black. The weaving concealed the warp and left a surface of stripes. When the filling was dyed in colors the pattern showed an indistinct check or plaid. The present Venetian is all cot- ton and but little used. Wilton C. — Woven in the same manner as Brussels, with the addition that the loops are cut by knife ends, or edges. or similar devices on the wires when they are withdrawn, forming a heavy pile surface, which is afterwards fin- ished. First made in Wilton, England. Carpet Binding. — A heavy tape, woven in colors and used for binding. Carpet Lining. — Any material laid on the floor beneath a carpet for protection or softening the tread; usually cotton or pther soft fiber quilted between yard- wide strips of paper, or a thick grade of corrugated building paper or felt. Carpet Thread. — A heavy, strong linen or cotton thread, put up in hanks and on spools, used principally for sewing together strips of carpet. Carpet Warp. — A strong cotton yarn, or cord, used for the warp of rag carpets. Carreau (kar-ro'). — A design consisting of a small square, check or diamond. Cashmere. — A fine, twilled, soft-finisn dress goods, usually dyed in plain col- ors but sometimes printed; it may be of all wool, silk and wool, or cotton and wool. Cashmere Chevron. — See Cote de Cheval. Cashmere Shawl. — An expensive shawl made from the soft, fine hair of the Cashmere goat cl India, woven in figures or embroidered Name now applied to shawls made from cloths woven with the cashmere twill for the- special pur- pose. Cassimere (kaz'i-mer). — Applied to "wool- en cloths for men's wear comprising a great variety of weaves and color ef- fects. Cassinette (kaz-i-nef). — A cloth made of wool or mixed wool, coUon. or silk, usually cotton and wool, with a diag- onal twill. Used for clothing. Kersey- nette. Cassock (cas'sock). — Any long cloak of military style worn by men; also a plain close garment reaching to the feet, worn under the vestments by the clergy in ceremonials. Castor. — The American beaver. Any shade of color near that of the gray of beaver fur is called beaver, or castor; as castor glove, castor hat, castor dress goods. Celluloid (cell'u-loyd'). — A chemical com- position made by compressing gun coc- ton with camphor and other substances by hydraulic pressure, made to imitate ivory, tortoise shell, coral, amber, glass, etc. Challie (shal'ly). — A light-weight dress fabric of cotton or wool, sometimes mixed with silk, woven without twill and free from dressing. In plain col- ors and printed patterns. Also known as Challis, Challi and Shalli. Chambray (sham'bray). — See under Ginghams. Changeant (change'ant). — Changeable ef- fects produced by crossing two colors in the same fabric; as red warp and blue filling. Chaparejos (shap-ar-ay'hos). — Leather breeches worn by cowboys. Commonly abbreviated to shaps. 14 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Chatoyant (shah-toy-ant). — Possessing a changeable luster. Iridescent. See Shot. Check. — A small square or rectangular figure produced by colors of warp and filling crossing each other at right angles. The same effect produced in printing. Cheese Cloth. — Thin loose-woven muslin, bleached or brown, free from sizing, re- ceiving its name from its use in wrap- ping cheeses. Practically same as But- ter Cloth. Dyed Cheese Cloth known as Bunting, Surgeons' Cloth. Chemise (she-meez'). — A muslin under- shirt worn by women. Chemisette (shim-i-zef). — Practically a style of collar worn by women for cov- ering the neck and a portion of the shoulders and bosom. A partial che- mise. Chenille Cloth. — A pile fabric having the same design on both sides. Chenille Cord (she-neal' cord).— A fancy cord used in embroidery. Cheviot (shev'i-ot). — A cloth woven from the shaggy wool of Cheviot sheep, or one of the numerous imitations made from ordinary wool with a roughly-fin- ished surface. Cheviot Shirting. — A cotton shirting of soft finish in plain colors, stripes and checks; used also for children's wear. Chevron (shev'ron). — A V-shaped or zig- zag pattern in weaving. Chiffon (she-fon'). — A thin, gauze-like silk fabric of considerable strength used for dresses and trimmings. Any decora- tive object worn by women. Chignon (shee'nyon). — French for ar- rangement of women's back hair, now applied to a cluster of rolls or puffs of false hair. Chijimi (chi-je'mi). — A fast-dye drapery silk of Japanese manufacture. China Silk. — The plain woven hand-made silks of China, Japan and India and al- so the power-loom imitations at present commonly sold. Chinchilla. — Heavy, strong woolen cloth finished with a rubbed or tufted sur- face, used for warm outer garments. Coarse chinchillas are known as Whit- neys, fancy chinchillas as Flockones. A zephyr yarn dyed in black and white blotches. Chine i.sheen or she-nay') — An effect adopted from Chinese weaving produced by warp printing whereby a design shows indistinctly in the finished cloth; principally employed in silks. Also a fabric of double threads of different col- ors twisted together. Chintz. — A glazed cotton cloth printed usually in floral designs and used principally in upholstery. Chintz Braid. — A cotton galloon printed in small pa'tterns. Chlrimen. — A Japanese crepe made of silk, finished by a process of shrinking in water to produce the irregular sur- face. Similar fabric also made in cot- ton. Chou (shoo). — A large rosette of ribbon or tulle. Chudder. — A fine wool shawl made in India; also the wool from which it is made. Name given also to plain cash- mere shawls of solid color and loom figure. Any square cloth. Clan Tartan (klan-tar'tan). — The parti- cular tartan or plaid adopted by or be- longing to a Scotch Highland Clan. Clay Worsted. — A heavy cloth of dia- gonal weave used principally for men's clothes and coats. Cloak. — A sleeved wrap, worn by women as an outer protective garment. Cloaking. — Heavy material used for mak- ing cloaks. Cloche (klo-shay'). — French for bell or anything that is bell-shaped. A term used in millinery describing a droop- brim hat shape for women. Clock. — A figured ornament woven in or embroidered upon the ankle or leg of a stocking. Cloth of Gold. — An ancient ornate cloth in which gold wires or light strands were mixed with the fiber of the yarns. Clout. — A small piece of cloth to be used for a patch. A rag; a scrubbing cloth. Swaddling clothes. Coat. — An outer garment; a sleeved pro- tective wrap. Coating. — Fine worsted and woolen fa- brics adapted for any kind of coats. Coburg. — Twilled fabrics woven of wool and cotton or silk; commonly in imita- tion of cashmere, paramatta and other fine twilled cloths. Broadly, the class includes all twilled dress goods of cot- ton warp, in present commercial applica- tion. Cochineal (kotch'i-neal). — A dyestuff ob- tained from the heat-dried bodies of the minute female cochineal insect. It dyes a bright scarlet. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 16 Cockle (cook'el). — To form wrinkles or ridges in a woven fabric; may be done by the filling slipping on the warp, or by shrinkage of warp or filling. Cocoa Matting.— (See Matting.) Coir (kawr). — The coarse fiber obtained from the husk of the cocoanut, used in the manufacture of matting, door mats and heavy cordage. Collar. — That part of apparel worn about the neck, whether separate, as a linen or lace collar, or attached, as the collar of a coat. Collarette. — A small collar or a fichu of lace, or similar material. A detached, cape-like ornament of fur, embroidered stuff, lace, or otherwise, worn flat upon the shoulders and not always closely enclosing the neck. See Knit Goods Terms. Collet (kol'et). — A small cape or any sort of collar. Comb. — The implement used in arrang- ing the hair; also a hair ornament. Combing. — Smoothing and arranging tex- tile fibers to be spun into yarns. Combination. — A term applied to under- wear, constructed in one piece in such a manner that it combines two or more garments in one. Known aiso as Union Suit. See Knit Goods Terms. Comfortable. — A bed cover consisting of two sheets of cloth thickly wadded be- tween with cotton or wool batting and quilted or tied by threads or cords through both surfaces, binding all closely together. Comforter. Comforter. — A long, narrow scarf or wide band knitted or crocheted of soft yarns and used as a head and neck covering. Same as Comfortable. Composition Cloth A strong, waterproof material made from flax. Coney Fur. — See Fur. Convent Cloth. — A fine, light dress goods of wool and silk woven with an uneven or irregular surface. Cope. — A form of loose outer garment; a large mantle or robe worn by ecclesi- astics or by laymen on ceremonial oc- casions. Coque (cock). — A small ribbon bow; also a cluster of glossy feathers; used as a trimming. Coquille (ko-kill'). — Effects so produced as to resemble the uneven surfaces of shells. Cordage. — A general term applied to all kinds of ropes and cords. Corde. — In ribbed or corded effect, woven, stitched, or made, lengthwise or cross- wise of the goods. Corded Fabrics. — Textiles having ribs or ridges on their surfaces, either in staple weaves or novelties. Cordonnett (kor-do-nay). — The slightly raised cord-like edge of a point lace pattern. Piping used to finish an edge. Corduroy. — A heavy ribbed cotton ma- terial made with a pile on a. twilled foundation. See Knit Goods Terms. Corkscrew Worsted. — A twilled worsted cloth used for men's clothing and for cloaks. Coronet Puff. — A straight row or chain of rolls or puffs of false hair. Corset. — A quilted underwaist made of stout twilled cloth "boned" or stiffened and adjustable by means of lacings; of many styles and shapes and worn for the purpose of improving the figure. Corset Cover. — A light muslin or knitted cover worn directly over the corset. Corset Jean. — A twilled cotton cloth of smooth hard surface used principally for making corsets but also for linings and pockets. Drilling. Costume. — The style of dress of a na- tion, class, or rank. All tne garments worn at one time. Fancy dress or the apparel and its arrangement for a parti- cular occasion. To attire in a costume. Cote de Cheval (cote-de-she-val'). — A corded, or ribbed, dress goods of all wool or a mixture with other fibers. Cotele (cote-lay). — A woolen dress goods having a light corded surface. Coteline (ko-te-lene'). — A variety of white muslin, corded or plain. Cottonade. — A cotton cloth for men's wear imitating woolens and worsteds in colors and weave. Cotton Batting. — See Batting. Cotton Damask. — An imitation of lmen aamask. The better grades are mercer- ized. Cotton Flannel. — See Canton Flannel. Cotton Opener. — A machine for loosening and lightening raw cotton. Cotton Picker. — A machine used to clean raw cotton preparatory to manufacture. Cotton Wool. — Raw cotton in the boll, or before manufacture. 1G THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDT DICTIONARY. Cotton Worsted. — Heavy cotton cloth for clothing, in worsted styles. Similar to cottonade. Cotton Yarn See Yarn. Count. — The number given to thread or yarn of all fibers but raw silk to in- dicate its fineness, based upon the length in one pound. See tables in Ap- pendix. Counterpane. — The top cover of a bed; a bed-cover woven in a pattern or de- sign. Counting Glass. — A small, folding, mag- nifying glass used as an aid to count the number of threads of fabric within a given space. Also called linen glass. Couteau (koo-to'). — A knife-like quill or wing. Coutil (koo'teel). — A stout, canvas-like cloth sometimes of linen but usually of cotton in plain or herringbone weave, plain dyed or printed; used for corsets and garments requiring hard wear. Coventry Blue. — A superior worsted em- broidery thread made at Coventry, Eng- land. Coverlet. — The outer covering for a bed, especially if ornamental. Covert Cloth Name applied to a great variety of twilled woolen cloths used for outer garments and wraps. The best grades show a mottled appearance produced by parti-colored threads. Twilled cotton fabrics of stout weave. Cowl. — A monk's hood or the garment of which it is a part; a hooded garment. Crape. — A thin, veiling-like cloth with hard twisted threads in warp or filling or both which kink up when released from the loom and treated with a special sizing, forming a crinkled, un- even, stiff surface. Crape Cloth. — A silk or worsted cloth having a crinkled face. Woolen dress goods with an artificially craped surface. Craquele (krak-oo-lay'). — Broken glass effect in lace, net or silk. Crash. — A cloth of linen, flax, or cotton, plain or twilled weave, natural color, bleached or with colored checks, used for towels. At present also applied to rough cotton, linen or woolen fabrics for clothing "and fancy work. Cravat. — A piece of fine cloth or lace passed around the neck outside the col- lar and tied in front. A neck cloth. Cravenette (cra-ve-nef). — A twilled and closely woven worsted cloth, similar to serge, rendered waterproof by a pat- ented process. Crazy Quilt. — A bed, or couch quilt, made of irregular pieees of cloth fastened on a common foundation and catstitched or embroidered together. Crepe. — See Crape. Crepe de Chine (crape-de-sheen). — Liter- ally "Crape of China". Soft, lustrous silk crepe. Crepele (cray-pa-lay'). — Any slight, crepe-like appearance on a cloth sur- face. Crepe Llsse (crape lees). — A very thin smooth silk fabric stiffened with siz- ing and used for trimming and neck ruching. Crepon (cray-pon'). — Worsted, silk or cotton dress fabrics having a crinkled or crepe surface. Cretonne (cre-tonn')- — An upholstery cloth of cotton of various weights and widths with plain, irregular, or twilled surface printed in bright patterns. Crewel. — A lightly-twisted yarn of wool with sometimes a mixture of silk, used for embroidery and art work. Crinoline (crin'o-lin). — Ori-inally hair cloth, later the name applied to any materials for distending garments, and at present applied to a sized cotton cloth used for stiffening. The old-time hoop-skirt. Crispin (kris-pang). — A short cloak. Crochet (kro-shay'). — A kind of orna- mental knitting or fancy work produced with a thread, yarn, or small cord inter- looped by a single needle having a hooked end. Crochet Cotton. — A thread spun especially for use in crochet work. Crochet Hook. — A long metal, bone, or wooden needle, polished and finished with a hooked end. Crochet Quilt. — A bed covering woven in design which is usually reversible; in white or colors. Crofting The bleaching of linen cloth by spreading upon the grass and leav- ing it exposed to the sunlight and air, after soaking in lye. Derived from croft, the Scotch name for a small field. Croise (kroys). — A cross twill In weav- ing. Applied to velvets means twilled back instead of the old straight back. Crown Lining. — Any light, stiffened goods used for lining women's hats. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 17 Crystal. — A heavy corded silk with wool filling In which the small cords alter- nate with large, regular or irregular cords. Cuff. — A band of linen or other material worn about the wrist inside or outside the end of the sleeve; also the end of a sleeve; also the end of a glove or gauntlet. Cuirass (kwee-ras'K — Breast plate of de- fensive armor; now used to describe a close fitting, long-waisted bodice of medieval style, usually made of elastic textile. , Curtain Drapery. — A class of piece goods for sash and window curtains, such as lace, net, muslin, etc. Cut Cashmere. — A light-weight, twilled worsted dress goods, having slight lon- gitudinal lines, so woven as to give the face the appearance of having been cut. Known also as Sebastopol. Cut-Work. — A style of applique work done with printed figures cut from one cloth and attached to another by ap- pliqueing and sometimes later clipping out the interstices. Cyprus (si'prus). — A gauzy black lawn, slightly stiffened, not now in use. Dalmatic. — A wide-sleeved tunic worn by ecclesiastics. A medieval state robe. Damask. — A Bilk fabric woven in elabor- ate patterns brought out in satin sur- faces having a raised appearance. A fine table linen with pattern produced by manipulation of the threads in the loom. A fabric of any fiber woven in rich de- signs and used for hangings, draperies, or decorations. A light shade of pink. Damask Stitch. — An embroidery stitch presenting a smooth, shiny appearance. Damasse (dah-ma-say'). — Fabrics orna- mented on the surface with a rich de- sign, the running figure woven, but not printed — same as damask. A Flemish linen with loom pictures of flowers and other figures. Damassin (dam'a-sin). — Damask having flowered patterns in gold or silver thread. Invented by the Venetians in the 17th century. Damier (dahm-yay). — A pattern of checker-board effect. Danish Cloth. — A semi-stiff cotton dress goods of heavy thread and plain weave, sold in white and plain tints. Darning Sail. — A wooden or metal ball with a handle, used to hold under the fabric being darned. Darning Cotton. — A slack-twisted cotton thread, used for mending hosiery and other knit goods. Darning Needle. — A long needle made especially for carrying yarns used in darning. Darn Net. — A coarse, open bobbinet In- tended especially for embroidery pur- poses. De Beige. — See Beige. Delaine (de-lane'). — Mousseline de Lalne. A light plain-woven dress fabric origin- ally all wool but later also made with cotton warp. Almost identical with challi. Printed or dyed plain. Denim. — A heavy cotton goods woven with twilled face and plain, back, dyed in plain colors and sometimes printed in stripes and checks. Blue and browns and some stripes and checks used for men's overalls; fancy colors for drap- eries and upholstery. Denmark Satin. — See Lasting. Dentelle (den-tel'). — The French name for lace. Derby. — A stiff felt hat with round crown and curved brim, made in varying shapes. Design. — -The arrangement of forms or figures on cloth by processes of weav- ing or by printing. Deux Tons (duh tong). — A double tone produced by combinations of colors. Diagonal. — Any fabric having its twilled face so woven as to present distinct trails or lines diagonally across the piece. Diaper. — Stout cloth of cotton or linen, used principally for making swaddling cloths for infants. Birdseye cloth. Dice. — A small pattern or design sup- posed to represent dice, woven in the surface of some cotton, linen and silk fabrics. Dickey. — A separate shirt-front usually of starched linen, worn over the breast in place of a shirt or to conceal a shirt. Dimity. — A cotton goods woven with a corded surface presenting stripes, checks, or bars and properly having a double threaded warp. In plain white and sometimes in plain tints and printed designs. It is also woven in heavier quality and printed with floral pat- terns, stripes and so forth and used for furniture coverings. 18 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Directolre (di-rek-twar').— In the style of the French Directory, 1793-1801. Discharging — Removing the color in printed patterns or designs from a solid-color cloth by means of acids or other agents acting upon the dye and removing or "discharging" it. Distaff (dis'taf).— The stick on which is fastened the wool or flax in hand spin- ning. Doeskin. — A plain fine woolen cloth with a napped surface supposed to resembla a doe's skin. Dolly Varden. — A printed cotton goods having highly-colored flowers and figures. A dress made with bodice and short skirts from Dolly Varden prints. In style about 1870. Dolman. — A loose-fitting wrap having cape-like projections in place of sleeves. A garment worn by Turks. A military cape. Domestics. — A general term applied to cotton, linen and woolen cloths of com- mon domestic use. Domet (dom'et). — A plain cotton cloth of soft weave with a thick napped face; originally of cotton warp and wool fil- ling. Also spelled domett. Domino. — An adjustable robe and hood worn at masquerades. Dornock. — A damask linen cloth of diced or diapered pattern originally made at Dornick (Tourney) Flanders; also hangings and carpets of the same manufacture. A linen made at Dornoch, Scotland. Name given to linsey-wool- sey in some parts of England. Also written Dornick. Double Cloth. — A material in which two fabrics are combined into one by in- terlocked threads in weaving. Double Pile Fabric. — Any fabric woven with a pile on both sides. Doublet. — A close-fitting outer garment made with sleeves and sometimes a short skirt belted at the waist, worn by men about the end of the 15th cen- tury, and in use until the middle of the 17th century, usually worn with hose. Later an undergarment, made without sleeves and worn under the coat. Dowlas. — A strong unbleached linen cloth used in the 16th century in France and later manufactured in England. Name now applied to a strong cotton goods made in imitation of the linen fabric. Down. — The fine, soft body covering of fowls close to the skin. Most plentiful on water fowls. Doyley. — A small fringed napkin in white or colors, as first made by John D'Oyley, or Doily. Any small ornamental table mat. Also written Doily. Drap (drah). — A prefix borrowed from the French and applied to textiles of silk or wool. Drap D'Ete (drah-da-tay).— A fine worsted goods intended for summer wear, finished with a twilled face and an ungassed back. Drap De Soie (drah-de-swah'). — French, meaning silk cloth and applied gener- ally to all-silk fabrics. Draper. — A dealer in cloth or its manu- factures; as a linen draper, a woolen draper. The English term for drygoods merchant. Drapery. — Textile fabrics used for cur- tains, draperies and furniture cover- ings. Drap Satin (drah-sah-taing'). — A fine woolen dress goods having a glossy sur- face like satin, hence its name. Drap Soliel (drah-so-lay'yuh; drah-so- le'il). — A fine woolen dress goods made in France, highly finished and having a wide band as a weave feature. Drawn Work. — Fancy work performed by drawing certain threads from a cloth and arranging and fastening the balance in openwork designs. Dresden. — Term applied to a combina- tion of light colors of the most delicate shades which forms a design after the style of Dresden china. Dress Binding.— See skirt binding — braid. Dress Coat.— A black coat for men of fine material, having the skirts cut away over the hips, worn on occasions of full dress. Claw-hammer; swallow- tail. Dressing Gown — A loose gown worn by women previous to dressing. Also ap- plied to a loose long coat worn by pro- fessional men in private. Dressing Sacque.— A loose-fitting long waist worn by women. Dress Lining — Any material used for lin- ing or finishing the insides of women's and children's garments. Dress Shield — A doubled piece of elastic fabric rendered impervious to perspira- tion, shaped for insertion in the arm- pit of a sleeve. THE DRTGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 19 Dress Stay. — A narrow strip of stiff ma- terial covered with cloth and made in various lengths and used for stiffening waists and other garments. Dress Trimming. — Any braid, embroidery, passementerie, or other continuous or separate ornamental production de- signed for decorating or garnishing dresses. Drilling. — Strong, twilled cloths of many- kinds designed for various purposes where strength and durability are de- sired. Dress D. — A twilled cotton goods usually 27 inches wide, in white and plain colors used for lining waists of dresses. Corset jean. Cotton D. — Known as pocket drill, usu- ally sold unbleached; of twilled weave and from very strong yarns. Linen D. — Very close-woven and em- ployed principally for mattresses and linings where strength is desired. Drugget (drug'et). — Formerly a heavy twilled goods used in wraps. Any coarse or heavy fabric, felted or woven plain, with woven designs or printed, used as a rug. Name also applied to ingrain art squares and other large rugs. Drummer. — One who solicits orders from retailers, especially for a wholesale house of any kind, by traveling from town to town. Also known as a com- mercial traveler, road man, or traveling salesman. Drygoods. — Name used in the United States to designate textile fabrics and allied wares and merchandise, corre- sponding to English drapery and mer- cery. In England, goods sold by dry measure. Duchesse. — A satin fabric of which the back is woven in flat twills, making a smooth face, not showing the twill. Duck. — A heavy plain textile made in linen and cotton and handled principally in brown and bleached. The lighter weights used for summer clothing. Dundee Goods. — Manufactures from Dun- dee, Scotland, including fabrics made of hemp, flax, jute, or a combination of them. Dunrobin. — A fine Scotch plaid. Dunster. — A kind of broadcloth of the 17th century. Cassimere. Duster. — A light outer garment worn to protect the clothing from dust, hence the name. Made of linen or any light cotton or half-wool goods of smooth surface. Dutch Neck. — A term used in garment making which describes a low cut neck in square, round or pointed shape. Dutch Collar. — A flat collar worn by wo- men and children. Also known under the names of Eton, Puritan and Buster Brown. Dyeing. — Impregnating fiber, In what- ever state of preparation for consump- tion, with coloring matter. Ear Muffs. — Adjustable coverings for the ears worn as a protection against the cold. Ear caps. Earring. — An ornamental piece of jewel- ry of varying shapes and composition, worn fastened in the ear. Under this head come Eardrops and Earbob. Echarpe (a-sharp). — Literally a scarf. Applied to the long, floating ends in a broad stole effect, employed in ladies' neckwear. Ecru (eck-roo'). — Unbleached. Having a shade of color like unbleached cotton, raw silk, raw linen. A light brownish yellow. Edging. — Narrow lace or embroidery used for trimming or finishing the edges of garments. Egyptian Cotton. — A lustrous fiber grown on irrigated lands of the Upper Nile and known as Maco, the name of a large planter. Preferable for threads, hosiery and underwear. Egret. — The light floating feathers ob- tained from the heron. Eiderdown (eye-der-down). — The down of the eider duck, very light, soft and warm; largely gathered from the nests. Eiderdown Cloth. — A thick, soft fabric with a knitted cotton foundation and a surface of heavy wool, which is brushed to a thick, heavy nap; made in plain colors and fancies, also in all cotton. Elastic Webbing. — Braids made elastic by means of small rubber strands laid lengthwise of the braid, around which the threads are woven. Electoral Cloth. — A reversible dress goods of wool, silk and wool, or cotton and wool, resembling Merino in finish. Ell.— An English unit of measure 1% yards long used chiefly for textiles. Elysian (e-liz'yan). — A diagonal chin- chilla. 20 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Embossed Velvet. — A velvet usually hav- ing a smooth ground ornamented with bosses or raised figures in pile. Bro- caded. Embossing. — Producing bosses or raised ornaments in relief upon any surface. Embroidery — Cloth or other material or- namented by raised figures of needle- work in silk, cotton or other thread. Embroidery Canvas See Canvas. Embroidery Cotton.— A soft cotton thread used for embroidering. Embroidery Crash. — A coarse threaded linen used for embroidery and fancy work. Embroidery Hoop A combination of two hoops, one fitting tightly over the other so that the material to be em- broidered is held firmly when placed be- tween them. Embroidery, or Art Linen. — A round- threaded linen cloth of very even sur- face and a finish designed for easy em- broidery; also a white embroidery thread. Embroidery Needle. — A needle used for embroidery purposes. Embroidery Silk. — Anything in that great class of silk threads made especially for embroidery pi rposes. Empire. — Styles of women's dress fash- ionable during the reign of Napoleon I. based oni the mode of dress customary in ancient Greece. Empress Cloth.— Same as Electoral Cloth. Empress Gauze — A loom-figured gauze made of silk or sometimes of silk and linen. Enameled Cloth.— (See American Cloth.) En Carreau. — See Carreau. End. — A thread of yarn used in weaving. English Eyelet. — Term in embroidery to designate the open patterns that are peculiar to all English embroideries. Eolienne (ay-o-li-en). — A sheer silk and wool fabric. Eplngle (ep'pain-gle). — Silk or silk and wool dress goods having lustrous cords, of varying size and at irregular spac- ings, running crosswise of the cloth. Epingline (ep'paing-lene). — (S a m e as Epingle.) Equestrian Tights.— Knitted tights cover- ing the body completely from the waist to the toes; combination drawers and hose. Also spelled Equestrienne. See Knit Goods Terms. Ermine (er'min). — The snow white fur of a weasel-like quadruped inhabiting the cold regions of the northern hemisphere. Escurial tes-ku'ri-al). — The wavy or bended lines woven in textiles or some- times embroidered upon them, simulat- ing heavy designs. Estamin (es-tam'in). — A woolen cloth of Prussian manufacture used where hard wear is expected; also a coarse silk fa- bric of the 17th century. Estamine (es-ta-meen')- — A narrow French wool dress goods of twilled weave and rough surface. Etamine (et'a-meen). — A canvas weave of wool goods with a wide mesh, rend- ering it more or less transparent; seme- times woven with a silk stripe. Imi- tated in cotton. Etching Silk — Fine, rather hard-twisted silk thread used for embroidery, out- lining and delicate needle-work effects. Eton Collar — A flat stiff collar worn by students of Eton College, now adopted for general wear by women. Also known as Puritan, Dutch and Buster Brown. Eton Jacket. — Short outer garment for women which reaches a little above the waist line. Term derived from a gar- ment worn by students of Eton College in England. Everlasting. — See Laces. Faconne (fah-so-nay'). — When connected with any textiles it means fashionable, fancy, stylish. Silk or wool figured goods with a surface of raised design. Factor. — A commission merchant. A cot- ton factor; a wool factor. Factory Cloth. — Name applied to the first unbleached mill muslins of American manufacture and still used by old people to designate any yard-wide cotton. Factory Yarn. — Yarn produced from local wools by country woolen mills. Fagoting (fag'ot-ing). — A criss-cross openwork stitch done in a rope silk. Ornamenting textiles by drawing some threads and tying the balance. Faille (fail).— Soft ribbed dress silk with a prominent cord extending across the fabric, and so heavy as Ottoman, twice as large as grosgrain. Faille Francaise. Also a nun's hood and veil covering head and shoulders. Fan. — An implement especially used for cooling the face by agitating the air. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 21 Fancy Goods.— Choice articles, small- wares and ornamental goods. Goods having uses more for decoration than practical service. Farmers' Satin.— A twilled face, glossy- finish, firm cloth of cotton warp and wool filling, having a satiny appear- ance and used for clothing linings and petticoats. Sold principally in black. Farthingale. — A device used by women in the 16th and 17th centuries to ex- tend their skirts, similar to hoops. Fascinator. — A scarf with a broad center which narrows both ways into long ends that extend nearly to points, knit- ted or crocheted from soft yarns and worn as a woman's head covering. Fayal Lace. — See Lace Terms. Fayetta. — A soft near-silk cloth of silk and wool, having a twilled face. Al- most identical with Gloria Silk. Fearnaught. — A heavy shaggy woolen goods used for sailors' clothing. Featherbone. — A patented stiffening ma- terial manufactured from the quills of fowls into braids the width of whale- bone and used as a substitute therefor. Feather Cloth.— A very warm, rough cloth composed of wool and feathers woven together. Fedora A felt hat with shaped brim and soft crown made in various heights and proportions. Fell. — The end of a piece of cloth in the loom formed for cutting out by the last threads of the filling. A method of finishing and laying a seam flat. Felt. — A cloth formed of textile fiber by laying the fibers together and forming a compact and pliable material through moisture, heat and pressure, or by wet- ting and shrinking, or by forming a union through sizing or other welding compound. Ferret. — Narrow ribbon for binding or making rosettes; also a filoselle. Festoon. — A loop or garland of anything hanging between two points in a curve. Scallop. hez. — A felt cap made like a truncated cone usually red in color and finished with a black silk tassel inserted in the top and allowed to hang over the side. Fiber. — A thread-like portion of any sub- stance, as of wool, silk, cotton. A single filament. Flbrllia (fi-bril'ya).— Substitute fiber to be used in place of or in connection with more valuable material in weaving, pre- pared from the coarser grades of fiber plants and sometimes from tough grasses. Fichu (fee-shoo'). — A triangular piece of any material, especially lace, worn round the neck. A square of cloth folded into a triangle, to be placed over the shoulders, the ends to be crossed in front and returned under the arms to be fastened behind at the waist. An overdress for neck and shoulders of the appearance of a double bib or abbrevi- ated stole, more or less ornamented and trimmed. Filature. — A machine used for reeling the filament or thread from silk co- coons. The process of drawing threads. Filibeg (fil'i-beg). — The modern short, pleated kilt skirt of the Scotch High- landers. Also written Fillibeg. Fillet. — A narrow band for binding the hair. Also known as a bandeau. Filling. -The threads which reach from side to side of a woven fabric. The weft or woof of the goods. See Carpet Terms. Filoselle (fil-o-zel').— A kind of floss silk used for embroidering; ferret. Filo Silk.— A soft silk thread made especially for certain kinds of embroid- ery. Finishing.— The final preparation for market given to all textiles and gar- ments. Finishing Braid. — A narrow flat braid woven in figures, used for ornamenting garments. Also used to cover seams and finish raw edges. Fish Net. — A coarse thread net. Flannel. — A loosely woven woolen, cot- ton and wool, or silk and wool, cloth with a nap surface used for un- der-garments, dresses, etc. Name also applied to cotton goods woven and finished in imitation. Flannelette. — A soft, narrow flannel made especially for underwear. The name sometimes given to cotton outing cloths. Flat Cambric— The soft finished lining cambric put up in flat folds. Flat Fold.— Goods rolled without doubling. Applied to wool dress goods woven In 24 to 32 inch widths and rolled like ginghams. 22 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Flat Goods. — Descriptive term applied to machine knit cloths used in making underwear in distinction from the more elastic ribbed goods. Flat Stitch — Embroidery in flat stitches having no padding underneath to raise the figure. Flax. — The plant and its fiber from which is prepared the linen of commerce. Fleece The woolly hair of the sheep; the entire coat after it is shorn. Fleur-de-lis (flewr-de-lee). — A figure which has long been a favorite with de- signers, but of disputed origin. Said to have been adopted as the .French royal emblem by Louis VII. Flitter. — Spangles made of bright ma- terial, light in weight. Floats. — The filling threads in a fabric which have skipped over the warp and lie unengaged on the surface. Flock. — Finely ground wool, rags, felt, or cloth, used for stuffing upholstery. Any waste wool. Flockone. — See Chinchilla. Floconne (fto-so-nay'). — A silk dress ma- terial having small flakes of white or color. Florence.— A thin silk taffeta. Florentine. — The fancy or plain heavy silk used for men's vests or waistcoats. Al- so used to signify a small close-fitting head dress for children. Floret Silk (flo'ret). — The yarn spun from the best grade of waste silk. Floretta — Same as Floss Silk. Floss-Silk. — The outside or envelope of the silk cocoon; the fiber broken off in the filature. A soft, fluffy, untwisted embroidery silk. Flounce — A garnered or plaited strip of any material sewed to a skirt near the bottom by its upper edge. Flouncing.— Material used for making flounces. Folds — The regular lengths of textiles in the piece, (laid for rapid measuring. Plaits in a garment. Foot. — The unit of measure originally based on the length of a man's foot. Twelve inches. One-third of a yard. Foot Glove. — A heavy woolen stocking worn over the shoe. Footing. — A parallel strip used for attach- ing an edging to a garment; the straight edge of a lace or similar trimming. Foot-Sheet. — A sheet thrown over the chair occupied during the toilet. A sheet for the foot of the bed. Foulard (foo-lard'). — A soft, thin, un- twilled washable dress silk. Twilled foulard is a silk serge. A silk hand- kerchief used to tie around the neck or over the head. Foulardine. — Cotton goods in imitation of foulard. Fourchette (for-shef). — A forked piece inserted at the side of glove fingers. Fourragere. — Ornaments of braid set on each side of a bodice, and connected by one or more long, drooping cords. Four-in-Hand — A style of men's neck- wear designed to leave two long ends after tying. Frieze (freez). — A thick and heavy wool- en cloth with a nap on one side used in the manufacture of outer garments. Originated in Ireland where it is pro- nounced Frize. Frill. — An ornamental band of lace or fine muslin fulled and fastened at one edge, ttye other edge being left free. A ruffle. A neck ruching. Fringe. —A continuous border of threads or cords loose or twisted, arranged and combined, attached to the edge of a braid by which it may be fastened to anything for the purpose of ornament or garnishment. Frise (freez). — A fine frieze on which the nap is made up of very small loops; also written Frisetta. Frock. — The principal outer garment for women ; also signifying a monk's robe, a coarse outer garment worn by labor- ers, a coarse woolen garment worn by sailors. Frock Coat. — A coat for men made with a long, full skirt. Frocking. — Any fabric suitable for mak- ing men's work-frocks. Frog. — A fastening for coats, waists and other outer garments, consisting of an oblong button or brandenburg and a corresponding loop each surrounded by ornamental braiding. Fuller's Earth. — A clay used in fulling woolen cloth and for removing free grease by absorption. Full Fashioned. — See Knit Goods Terms. Full Regular See Knit Goods Terms. Fulling. — The shrinking of woolen cloth in a fulling machine whereby it is made firmer and more durable with a loss of width and length. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 23 Fur.— The short, soft, fine coat covering the skin of many animals from which the coarser overhair has been removed In most cases, although some commercial furs contain the complete hair coat. FUR TERMS. Angora. — See under general definitions. Astrakhan. — See under general defini- tions. Badger. — Grizzled gray or black with white spots and stripes. Principal uses tor paint brushes and robes. Bear. Black. — Long, soft, woolly, shiny, sooty black to red brown. For robes and clothing. Beor, Brown. — Texture much like black bear; color varies from yellowish to d;irk brown. For garments and trim- mings. Bear, Grizzly. — Rough, grizzly gray. For coats and robes. Bear. White or Polar. — Coarse, stiff yel- lowish white to pure white. Robes. Beaver. — Exceedingly fine and close; gray beneath, black above. For un- limited uses. Cat, Civet. — Dark gray, with black stripes and square blotches. Trimmings and garments. Cat, Wild. — Muddy gray, thin and coarse. Little value. Chinchilla. — Very soft, fine, silvery gray. Expensive and sold principally for trim- mings and small articles. Coney. — Properly the fur from a Eu- ropean hare but the word designates many cheap furs. I 'oypou. — South American beaver. Very fine gray fur grading to a soft tan shade at outer extremity. Used for all fur purposes. Same as Nutria. Electric Seal. — A name given to an imitation of seal prepared from muskrat, coney and other cheap furs. Ermine. — See under general definitions. Fisher. — Fine, shiny, dark gray to black, in parts mixed with brown. Same as Pekan. Expensive. Fox, Black and Silver. — A variation of the common red fox — a freak — varying from totally black to white-tipped black hair. Extremely valuable because of rarity. Fox. Blue. — Variant from the Arctic white, having a bluish slate fur. Very valu- able. Fox, Cross. — Common red with darker red markings or lines. Fox, White. — The Arctic fox, which is white in winter and brown in summer. Goat. — Coarse outer hair; soft under- neath. Rugs, robes and coats. Lamb. — Most lambskins used as furs come from Asia or eastern Europe. These furs are especially marked for the density and close curl of the hair. They range in color from pure white to jet black and include the Blue Tibet, Persian Krimmer, Astrakhan, Mouflon and other lambskins known under com- mercial names. Lynx. — Color gray, varying in depth with the locality of growth, with a reddish sub-tinge. Marmot. — Grizzly brownish-gray, of little value. The common woodchuck or ground hog. Marten. — Very valuable. Embracing sev- eral shades of color. The Siberian sable, European marten and American pine marten are very much alike, with brown fur lighter on the belly and coarse black hairs, which are plucked out. The stone marten has white belly and Indian marten has yellow breast. Mink. — Clear chestnut brown when trap- ped at proper season, with sometimes white neck markings and tail that graduates to black at the tip. Mole. — Smooth, gray, short and of little value. Monkey.— Long, glossy black. Used for muffs and coat trimmings. Mouflon (moof'lon). — Long-haired sheep of Corsica and Sardinia. Used for muffs and trimmings. Muskrat. — Fur gray, thick and soft. Outer hair dark umber, which is plucked out. Used for garments. Nutria. — See Coypou. Opossum. — Coarse outer hair with soft gray fur. Otter. — Dark brown at the surface and grayish at the base. In the sea-otter a deep liver-brown silvered with scat- tered gray hairs. The most valuable of furs. Pekan. — See Fisher. Persian Lamb. — See Lamb. Raccoon.— Fur grayish-brown with outer hair of black and gray. Sable, Russian.— See Marten. 24 THE DRTGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Seal. — The natural color is gray for the outer hair and brown for the fur. The outer hair is plucked out and the fur is dyed deep "seal" brown for commerce. Skunk. — Ranging in color from yellow- ish white to jet black— the latter the most valuable. Very thick and shiny. Sometimes sold for sable and marten. Squirrel. — Ranging from gray to black; fine and glossy. Used principally for trimmings. Wolf. — Very coarse and long hair rang- ing from gray to black. Used largely for robes. Zibeline. — Same as sable. Furniture Cord.— Small ropes or cords in colors for decorating furniture up- holstery. Fustanelle (fus-tan-ell').— The short white skirt worn by Greek men. Fustian (fust'yan). — A coarse, heavy cot- ton fabric having a short pile such aa corduroy and velveteen; formerly a stout cloth made of cotton and flax. G. Gabardine (gab-ar-deen').— A long, loose cloak of coarse material. Once the pre- scribed dress for Jews. Gaiter See Overgaiter. Galerum. — An ancient head dress. Galligaskins. — Long, loose trunk hose worn in ..he 16th century. Protective leather leggings worn by sportsmen. Galloon (gal-loon'). — A closely woven worsted band, like a narrow ribbon or tape, used for binding. A dress trim- ming consisting of an embroidered band or tape. A metal band or tape used on uniforms. Galon (gah-long). — The French and bpan- ish equivalent for galloon. Galluses. — See Suspender. Gambroon.— A light-weight twilled cloth of wool, or linen, and cotton used for trousers. A twilled linen lining. Garnettlng (gar'net-ing).— A method of re-carding the waste fibers of yarn, cloth and knitting mills so they may be utilized. Garniture. — The elaborate decorations of women's gowns, composed of trimmings and embellishments. Garter. — An elastic band or tape or similar contrivance used to keep the stocking in place and passing around the leg either above or below the knee. Garter Web.— See Elastic Webbing. Gassing. — The process of singeing off the loose fibers on cloth or thread by pas- sing througn a gas flame. Gauffre (goffer).— Same as English Gof- fer. To form plaits or ruffles or raised effects in a fabric. A fluting on the edge of lace. Moire silks are goffered. Gauntlet (gawnt'let).— A glove with a long wrist extension or cutf. Gauze. — Very thin, light, openwork fa- bric of -ilk, cotton or linen. Gauze Weaving.— A method employed in weaving of thin fabrics by which some of the warp threads are twisted about each otner and held by the filling so as to make openwork designs. Genappe (je-nap'). — A worsted yarn of great smoothness that is combined with silk and used In fringes and braids. First made in Genappe, Belgium. Genapping ( je-nap'ing). — Making worsted yarns smooth by gassing. German Knitting Worsted. — A coarse, soft-twisted, worsted yarn, dyed in com- mon colors and also left natural, used for knitting and crocheting. Germantown Yarn. — A heavy, soft wool- en yarn especially adapted to knitting and crocheting. First produced at Ger- mantown, Pa. Gibson Collar.— Very high stock or neck- band shaped to the neck and made with high points at each side which reach to the ears. Gibson Pleat. — Named after Gibson's drawings, in which his girls are drawn with very broad shoulders. The pleat is made to extend out beyond the nor- mal shoulder line. Gigging. — Raising a nap on woolen cloths by passing them over rotating cylinders armed with teasels. Gimp. — A narrow, flat, ornamental trim- ming made of silk, worsted or cotton, and sometimes containing metal in small wires or flat strands. Gingham. — Light-weight, yarn-dyed lin- en or cotton goods, usually cotton, woven in checks, plaids, stripes and figures em- bracing a numerous list of kinds which have little to distinguish them but are mainly proprietary with copyrighted or registered names. Under the head of ginghams come the following: Apron Checks.— Of white and color, al- ternating both ways, or two colors, in small regular or irregular checks. Regu- THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 25 lar checks are known as 2x2, 4x4, etc., according to the number of threads forming the check. These also some- times come under the class of "cotton checks" in some localities. 27-inch. Chambray G. — A fine gingham principally in plain shades and tints calendered be- tween hot rollers to give it a smooth, shiny surface. 26 to 2S-inch. French and Scotch G. — Are high-grade qualities properly imported from France and Scotland but more often the names are applied to domestic goods. 30 to 36-inch. Madras G. — Is woven in imitation of em- broidered madras handkerchiefs. Seersucker G. — A gingham woven from cotton in imitation of genuine East In- dian linen seersucker. (See general defini- tions.) 27-inch. Umbrella G. — Solid color, principally in black, made especially for cotton um- brellas. Zephyr G. — Is of soft finish, woven of fine yarns and in delicate and attractive colors. 27 to 36-inch. (Note. Every manufacturer has private brands and it is impossible to make a detailed de- scription of each.) Girdle. — A band or belt used to gird a loose garment about the waist. Glace (gla-say'). — Applied to anything having a glistening, smooth surface re- sembling ice. Glass Cloth. — A smooth, plain linen towel- ing, usually checked by threads of color, used as dish toweling. A cloth woven of fine spun-glass threads. Glazing Producing a smooth, shiny sur- face as a finish, usually with the calen- dering machine and heat. Gloria. — A light, soft twilled cloth of silk warp and wool filling used principally for umbrella covers. Lansdowne, Sub- lime and similar goods are glorias. Gloss. — To steam, then twist when per- fectly dry, for the purpose of producing a luster. Done with hanks of silk. Glove. — A covering for the hand which provides a separate compartment for each^ digit. GLOVE SEWING. Cable-stitch, round-stitch or over-seam Is over-and-over sewing done with the edges together. Pique, lap, or flat-stitch is through-and-through with one edge flat on top of the other. Outseam Is done with the edges parallel and stitched through both, back and forth. Inseam is a wrong-side sewing which does not show after the glove is turned right side out. Welt seam is done like the in- seam with the addition of a narrow strip of leather or welt placed between the edges. Fabric gloves are knitted or woven of fine spun yarns of cotton, linen, wool and silk — all machine-made. Berlin. — Means a cotton glove. Usually applied to men's cotton gloves, black or white. Cashmere G. — A finely-knitted wool of considerable thickness, often with a brushed surface inside. Double-Tipped. — Woven with an extra web or thickness over the finger-ends. Frame-made G. — Seamless and made in one piece like a seamless stocking. Jersey G. — Tight fitting, with no opening at the wrist. Milanese G. — Of superior workmanship from a highly-finished silk thread. Scotch or Golf G. — Seamless, or frame- made, of worsted yarns. Very heavy. Taffeta G. — Formerly made of linen and silk stockinet but now usually of cotton and silk. Light and soft. Town-made G. — Cut from glove fabric and sewed up like garments and leather gloves. Originally so-named on the theory that town seamstresses were su- perior to country women. GLOVE TERMS. Buckskin. — Made from the skins of deer and kindred animals. Castor. — Light weight gloves made of any thin leather from which the grain has been removed in imitation of beaver skin. Chamois (shammy). — A glove of soft, washable leather sometimes made from the skin of a wild goat of the Alps but generally imitated in sheepskin. Coltskin. — Genuine coltskin or split horsehide. Very soft, smooth and dur- able. Dogskin. — Not from dogs' skins but the skins of Cape sheep. Fourchette. — See general definitions. Gauntlet. — See general definitions. Glace (gla-say'). — Finished with a glossy or polished surface. 26 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Hogskin. — Coarse-grained and rather harsh; used for working gloves. Horsehide. — Properly finished is soft and very durable. Kid. — The dress glove. Real kidskin is used only in the better grades, the cheaper gra'des being of smachsen, or lambskin. Mocha. — A soft, velvety, face-dyed leath- er originally from Arabian sheep skins, although now much imitated in ordin- ary sheep and goat; very strong and very durable. Nappa. — Tough, light yellow goatskin. Oil Tanned. — A pliable heavv leather used for working gloves. Plymouth Buck. — A drab-colored buck- skin. Saranac. — Oil tanned buckskin, yellow in color. Smachsen. — Lambskin used for making "Kid" gloves. Suede. — See general definitions. Undressed. — See Suede under general de- finitions. Gobelin Tapestry. — (See Tapestry.) Golf Cloth.— (See Albert Cloth.) Goods. — Merchandise prepared for con- sumption, ready for use. Gore. — Term used in tailoring and all garment making and applied to any- thing that is cut gradually so as to nar- row down to a given point. Also an inserted wedge-shaped piece of cloth to give shape to "straight pieces. Gossamer (gos'a-mer). — A very thin strong, soft gauze. A waterproof gar- ment made very light. Gown. — The dress or robe worn by wo- men. Night gown, a sleeping garment. A loose house garment. A long and loose outer robe worn by professional people as a badge of office or position. Granite. — A granite-like surface in weav- ing showing a mottled coloring or an irregular surface. Grass Bleaching. — The process of bleach- ing cloth by spreading on the grass and exposing to joint action of light, air and moisture for a period necessary to fetch pure whiteness. Also known as Grass- ing. Grass Cloth. — A thin light cloth made in the Orient from the fiber of nettle plants like the ramie, of a dark linen color. A heavy cloth made in the Canary Is- lands from vegetable fiber. A yellowish muslin made in imitation of the Oriental grass cloth. Gray Cloth and Yarn. — Yarns and cloths in an uncleansed condition as they come from the looms. Gray Cotton. — The undyed and unbleached cotton cloth. Grenadine (gren-a-deen'). — A thin, gauzy, silk or woolen fabric woven in de- signs. Used for dresses and shawls. Gretchen. — A style of girl's dress which consists of a full skirt and shortened waist in German peasant style. Grogram (grog'ram). — A silk and wool or silk and mohair stuff of coarse tex- ture, not now in market. Gros (gro).— Any heavy or stout textile, especially of silk or containing silk. Gros de Indes (gro den In'des). — A silk having a diagonal band or stripe. Gros de Londres (gro deh Lon'dra). — A highly finished silk having transverse cords. Gros de Naples (gro deh Na'ples). — An organzine silk of superior manufacture and finish. Gros de Tours (gro deh Toorz). — A dull black silk with a heavy taffeta cord, known as mourning silk; also silk warp and wool filling cloths of similar dull appearance. Grosgrain (gro'grain). — A light-corded silk of semi-dull finish and standard im- portance, having great durability. Guana (gwah'nah). — Cloth made from the fiber of the laeebark tree. Guernsey (gern'zy). — A heavy, knitted frock or outer shirt worn by sailors. See Jersey. Guimpe (gimp or ganp). — A chemisette to be worn with low-cut dress, with or without sleeves. Gunny. — A coarse heavy sacking manu- factured from jute or hemp. Used for bagging and covering packages of mer- chandise ready for transportation. H. Haberdasher. — In England, a dealer in notions and fancy goods; in the United States, a dealer in men's furnishings. Habit. — Outer dress designed for special use or occasion, as horseback riding or sailing; synonymous with suit. Habutai (hab-u-ti). — A Japanese silk somewhat heavier than china silk, of soft texture. Also written Habutaye (hah-bew'tah-ye). THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 27 Habit Back.— A term used to describe the cut of skirt which is made flat, without any fullness or pleats, but may have a seam in the center. Hair Cloth A cloth of cotton or linen warp with a filling of long horse hair. Used for stiffening of garments; and in upholstery. Hair- Line. — A fine line of contrasting color, white, or black, running length- wise of the cloth, either printed or woven. Hair Net. — A fine, almost invisible, net of silk thread used to hold the hair in place; formerly very fashionable. Halr-Pin. — A double, or U-shaped, pin of metal, bone, or other stiff material, used to hold the hair in desired position. Hamburg. — A kind of cotton embroidery worked on cambric, used as an edging or trimming. Sometimes applied to any cotton embroidery. Hammer Cloth. — The cloth which skirts the driver's seat of a coach. Hank. — A skein of thread. Two or more skeins of yarn fastened together into a bundle. Harlequin Check (har'le-kwin). — Made up of several colors like the dress of a harlequin. Harvard Shirting. — A twilled colored shirting, sometimes figured. Haslock (has'lock). — The finest wool of the fleece, which grows on the sheep's throat. A Scotch term. Hassock. — A thick, hard cushion used as a footstool, usually covered with carpet. Haute Nouveaute (hote nov-vo-tay')- — A French expression meaning high novelty and attached by manufacturers to al- most everything, especially in jewelry, trimmings, buttons and ornamental articles. Havelock (hav'lock). — A washable head covering made of light cotton with a cape or neck-piece attached to protect the back of the head and neck in hot countries; usually worn over a cap. Heading. — The inner edge of lace by which it is sewn to the garment. Helix. — One method of finishing the eye of a needle, bv stringing on a curved wire, or helix, and giving a motion that causes the needle of revolve. Hemp. — An herb of the nettle family, the inner bark of whose stalk provides the fiber which is used to make cord- age. The name applies to the fiber as well as the plant. Hemstitch. — The ornamental inner edge of a hem produced by drawing out a few threads and drawing the cross threads together in groups. Henrietta. — A fine wool or silk and wool dress goods, woven in round twill face. Practically a finely finished cashmere. Hernanl ^her-nah'ni). — A thin light silk grading between grenadine and gauze. Originally a grenadine of square mesh made of silk and wool. Herringbone. — An alternating twill ef- fect in weaving -which presents a zig- zag appearance across the cloth and a series of stripes resembling the back- bone of a herring when viewed length- wise. In sewing, a union of diagonal stitches giving the herring-bone ap- pearance. See Knit Goods Terms. Hessian. — A coarse bagging made of hemp or hemp and jute; also applied to burlaps. Hickory Shirting. — A heavy cotton goods of three-quarter width belonging to the osnaburg class and made in blue and white and brown and white small checks and narrow stripes. Holland. — A closely-woven linen cleth made in Holland. A plain, wide linen cloth, little bleached, is known as brown Holland. A glazed or opaque cotton or linen cloth used for window shades. Hollow-Cut Cord. — A pile material woven with a plain surface, on which the cord finish is cut out with a knife. Homespun. — Any cloth manufactured at home in distinction from factory or mill-made; also applied to machine- made fabrics having the appearance of hand-made. Honeycomb. — Depressions produced in weaving which give the surface of the cloth a honeycomb effect. Hood. — A head-covering fitting closely and reaching low in the neck, designed to cover the ears and act as a protec- tion from weather. Hook and Eye. — A metallic combination fastening for garments, consisting of a hook of metal attached to one edge and a loop of the same material at- tached to the other edge. Hoopskirt. — A framework petticoat of large circumference made of hoops of steel wire or similar flexible material to be worn for the purpose of distend- ing the dress skirts. Also called Crino- line. First used about 1600 and of fre- quent appearance since. 23 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Hop-Sacking. — A coarse bagging for packing hops. A dress goods of heavy thread and rather loose weave in in- tended imitation of the coarse sacking. Hose. — Knitted coverings for the feet and lower part of the legs. Stockings. See Knit Goods Terms. Hose Supporters. — A device that has superseded the round garter in sup- porting hose, consisting of a waisit belt with a strap reaching down each leg to which is attached a fastener to grasp the top of the hose. Hosier (hoh'zher). — A dealer in hose or other knit goods. Hosiery. — The wares dealt in by a hosier. Hospital Sheeting. — See Sheeting. Household Linens. — A term applied to all linen goods or substitutes used in housekeeping. Huckaback. — A toweling of linen or cot- ton woven with a rough honeycomb face of varying fineness. Commonly known as huck. Hungarian. — A bright colored embroi- dery which was originally made in Hungary. Very similar to Bulgarian embroidery. I. Ice Wool. — A slack-twisted soft yarn of Email size, having an extremely glossy, or iced, finish. Illusion. — A very delicate silk net classed with tulle and used for veilings, women's neckwear and millinery. Imprlme (im-prime). — From the Latin verb meaning "to print" and applied to any goods with printed designs. Incise. — An effect produced by cutting out designs in a dress material and plac- ing silk or some other fabric under- neath it, the edges of the upper ma- terial being sewed down. In inverted applique. Incroyable (ang-krwah-yan'bl). — A style of dress modeled after that of dandies in the time of the French revolution. India Linon. — A fine cotton lawn of light weight finished with only enough sizing »o give slight stiffness; usually bleached but sometimes in black and colors. Indian Mallow. — The common mallow of the field and gardens which has been cultivated to a limited extent and made to produce a fiber suitable for cordage. India Shawl.— See Cashmere Shawl. Indigo. — A blue dye stuff obtained by de- composition from the indigo plant. Name also applied to goods dyed from in- digo, as indigo calico, indigo shirting. Ingrain. — Dyed in the yarn or fiber be- fore weaving, or dyed with a grain or permanent color. Insertion. — Lace or embroidery made with both edges alike used to insert between strips of plain fabric, allover lace or in- sertion, or between the garment and the heading of a lace edge. Interlining. — Anything placed between layers of cloth for the purpose of pad- ding or stiffening; usually of cotton or linen woven and finished for the pur- pose. Inverted Pleat. — A term used in tailor- ing. Two pleats turned inward and to- ward each other. Commonly used to finish the back of a skirt. Invoice. — A list of merchandise shipped or delivered, accounting the items, their prices and the totals. Iridescent (ir-i-des'ent). — A changing or shimmering color effect resulting from the use of warp and filling of different shades or colors. Changeant. Chine. Irish Linen. — a plain, fine-threaded lin- en in white, slightly sized and used principally in shirt manufacturing for fronts and curfs. Istle. — A stiff fiber obtained from agave plants; used for brushes and weaving into cheap "hair cloth." Italian Cloth. — A light, glossy twilled cloth composed of cotton or cotton and wool. Used for linings. Ivory Nut. — The seed of a Venezuelan palm. Thoroughly dried and ready for use it resembles ivory in grain and ap- pearance. Used extensively for but- tons because of hardness and susceptibil- ity to dye. J. Jabot (zha-bo')- — A frill of lace, or any soft material fastened at the neck and hanging down the front of the waist. Formerly a ruffle on a shirt bosom. Jacket. — A short coat or any outside gar- ment for the upper part of the body, made with sleeves and seldom reaching below the hips. Jack Towel. — A roller towel. Jaconet (jack'o-net). — A light, soft white plain cotton goods gauging between cam- bric and lawn. A cotton goods with one side glazed; usually dyed. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 29 Jacquard (zhac-car or ja-kard'). — Ap- plied lo materials woven on jacquard looms which automatically select or move the warp threads to form the de- signs. See Knit Goods Terms. Jamdani (jam-dah'ny). — A figured or flowered Indian muslin. Jamewar (jam'e-wahr). — A cashmere shawl with colored designs. Jane. — A front of false hair. Janus Cloth. — A plain worsted fabric of different color on each face or two-faced like the god Janus. Janus Cord. — A double-face cotton and woolen rep. Japanese Silk. — Generally, any silk im- ported from Japan. Jardiniere (zhar-de-nay'er). — D e s I g n s after the style of a flower garden, con- taining many figures and colors. A pendant attached to women's head dress in the ISth century. Jaspe (zhasp). — Veined, mottled, or clouded to represent jasper. Jean (jane). — A heavy twilled cotton or cotton and wool goods used for men's clothing. A heavy fine-twilled, smooth- finish cotton goods also known as Satin Jean. An all-cotton twilled cloth in white, plain colors and stripes known as Corset Jean and also as Urilling, formerly much used for waist linings. Jeanette (je-nef). — A coarse jean, used for lining. Jersey. — A tight-fitting jacket made of jersey cloth. An outside, seamless knit shirt of wool worn by sailors and athletes; the ordinary sweater — same as Guernsey. A very fine woolen yarn, or very fine wool. Jersey Cloth. — Stockinet knitted of wool, or wool mixed with cotton or silk. Jersey Flannel. — An elastic woolen flan- nel napped on one side. Jersey Waist. — A waist made of light- weight jersey cloth, sometimes elabor- ately braided. Jet. — A black lignite, light weight but very hard and susceptible of high pol- ish. Jobber. — A merchant who deals in goods which he purchases in large quantities and sells to retailers in small quantities at wnoiesale prices. Job Lot. — A quantity of merchandise of- fered at a price below prevailing mar- ket. Usually goods desired to be closed out rapidly for particular reasons. Jobs. Jumbo Braid. — A coarse straw braid of very large plaited weave and finished with a shiny surface. Jumper. — A loose outer jacket made of heavy cotton goods reaching slightly be- low the hips, worn by farmers and labor- ers. Jumper Suit. — A dress having a waist of peculiar style. Jupon. — A short petticoat. Applied to double and triple skirts; the upper skirt is the jupon. A dress goods of plain weave with cotton warp and wool filling. Jute. — A strong, coarse fiber, obtained from an Asiatic plant, and used largely in manufactures where strength is re- quired. K. Kaiki (ki-ki). — A Japanese wash silk a little heavier than habutai. Kamptulicon (kamp-tu'li-con).— A floor covering, decorated or plain, composed of a canvas back to which is attached by heavy pressure a compound of rubber, linseed oil, cork dust and other wear-re- sisting substances which have first been thoroughly mixed together. Known also as Cork Carpet. Kapok (ka-pok').— The cotton-like or silky fiber covering the seeds of a tree belonging to the silk-cotton family found In the East and West Indies. Used for stuffing pillows, cushions, mattresses and similar articles. Silk floss. Kemp. — Knots and coarse hairs in fur and wool. Kerchief. — A cloth to cover the head. Any square of cloth, folded and worn over the shoulders, usually in triangular shape; not so large as fichu. Kersey (ker'zy). — A light-weight, woolen cloth similar to beaver cloth with a smooth surface and very short nap. Kerseymere. — A name sometimes given in England to cassimere, from Kersey, the place of manufacture. Kerseynette. — See Cassinette. Khaki (kah'ki). — A twilled cotton goods dyed yellowish tan, rendered unshrink- able by treatment, specially finished for hard wear and used for military uni- forms. Khaki is an East Indian word meaning clay color. Kid Glove.— Se^ Gloves. 30 THE DRTGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Kilt — A separate pleated, skirt-like gar- ment worn by Scotch Highlanders, reaching from the waist line to the knees, made of clan-tartan. A deeply pleated child's skirt. A filibeg. A gar- ment deeply pleated is said to be kilted. Kincob (kin'cob). — A rich figured silk, or silk and cotton cloth interwoven with gold and silver threads, of East Indian manufacture. Kneipp (nipe) Linen. — A knitted linen material used for underwear. Knickerbocker (nick'er-bock'er). — A n y rough-surface cloth on which appear knots, or small bunches of yarn firmly fixed in the fabric. Breeches reaching only to the knee. Knife Pleating, — Similar to accordeon pleating, only the knives used for the pleating process are smaller and pleats are closer together. Knitting. — The forming of fabrics by a series of interlocked loops made of a single continuous thread, either by hand with straight needles or on machines with hooked needles. KNIT GOODS TERMS. Balbriggan. — Named for the town Bal- briggan, Ireland, in 1845. Was first ap- plied to full-fashioned hosiery made from unbleached cotton. About 1S60 the name was applied to knit underwear of the same material. Originally it was used only on high-class goods, but it now covers everything in light-weight flat underwear made of yarn stained to the shade of Egyptian cotton. Bicycle Stocking. — Long hose knit plain, ribbed, or in fancy designs, of heavy yarns for wear with knee breeches while riding bicycle. Golf Hose. Cashmere.— Means goods made of fine worsted yarn spun from very fine, soft wools. Sold in white and black. Collarette.-^A wide, knitted neckband, used on men's undershirts in lieu of binding. Corduroy. — Commonly known as two- and-two rib, or two ribs alternating on face and back of children's stockings. Cut Goods. — Underwear made of either ribbed or fiat webbing knitted into long rolls and cut to the proper lengths and sections for garments, after which the various parts are sewed together. Derby Rib. — Applied to hosiery having six ribs on the face alternating with three on the back. Double Sole, Heel and Toe. — Means an extra thread added to hosiery at points mentioned. Strictly speaking "double" applies only to single thread goods. English Foot. — A stocking having two seams in the foot, one on each side of the sole. Equestrienne Tights. — A tight-fitting knitted drawer for women's use, made of ribbed cloth, either with or without feet. Extracted. — Fancy hosiery on which wax has been applied before dyeing to form the fancy design or pattern. After plac- ing in cold dye they are washed in hot water to remove the wax, leaving the pattern in the natural color. Flat Underwear. — Undergarments knitted in plain stitch, as distinguished from ribbed goods. Fleece-lined. — Heavy-weight undergar- ments knitted with three threads — face yarn, backing yarn and a third yarn ty- ing the back and face together. The heavy nap or fleece is produced by run- ning the cloth over wire "brushes. (NOTE.— The term fleece-lined is often misapplied to ordinary single-thread un- derwear which has been run through the brushing machine for the purpose of raising a light nap on the inner surface.) French Foot. — Stockings so-called be- cause they differ from the English foot in that they have only one seam and that in the center of the sole. Full-fashioned. — Underwear or hosiery finished with fiat seams having selvage edges throughout and knit in flat, separ- ate sections upon machines which auto- matically drop the requisite number of stitches at various points to make the garments conform to the natural shape of the leg, foot or body. The sizes are indicated by stitches dropped in knit- ting. Full Regular (sometimes called looped). — Hosiery or underwear in which the seams have been connected by hand knitting. Gauge. — Applied to the number of meshes or wales to the inch in underwear or hosiery. For example, a 16-gauge fa- bric will have 16 wales or ribs to the inch. Gauze. — Meaning very thin and sheer. Golf Hose. — Heavy hose of fancy 'designs worn with knee breeches on the golf links. Bicycle Stockings. ■nil-: dryguodsman's handy dk'tionary. 31 Herringbone.— The name of a binding often used in facing the neck and front opening of the undershirts, so called be- rause of its resemblance to the back- bone of a herring. Applied to hosiery it refers to the stitching, which is made to cover the edge of the split sole. Hose.— A term applied to women's or children's stockings. The term half- hose is used on goods for men's wear. Half-hose are also Socks. Ingrain. — Raw material or yarn, dyed be- fore knitting. See general definitions. Jacquard (jack-ard'). — Hosiery in fancy patterns of two or more colors made on machines moving automatically with separate threads working independently of each other, forming combinations not possible on ordinary knitting machinery. Lisle Thread. — Used in the manufacture of hosiery or underwear and so called because made of a long, staple cotton, combed and hard-twisted, after which it is gassed or run through a flame to burn off the peach-like fuzz always to be seen on other yarns made from cot- ton. See general definitions. Maco (mah-ko). — Hosiery or underwear made from Egyptian undyed cotton. The name is derived from an Egyptian cotton planter who was called Maco- Bey. See general definitions. Maco Foot. — Hosiery foot composed wholly of unbleached yarn, while the leg is of black or color. Mercerized. — Underwear or hosiery made from cotton yarn which has been treated with caustic soda and sulphuric acid, and when knitted produces a fabric of added weight, imparting a silk-like luster. See Mercerizing. Merino. — Hosiery or underwear made of part cotton anu part wool mixed to- gether. (NOTE. — The word merino on a box label is often misleading, as fre- quently goods so called are composed wholly of cotton.) See general definitions. Mesh Underwear. — All knit underwear cloth is mesh in varying degree, but the common application of the term means a woven or knitted fabric hav- ing a r.=i-like appearance. See general definitions. Mock Seam. — Stockings made with cut leg and fashioned foot. Normal. — The natural gray mixture in hosiery and underwear. Opera Hose. — Women's stockings of ex- tra length, ordinarily measuring 34 in- ches. Outsize. — Women's stockings made in ex- tra widths. Oxford. — A dark pepper and salt mixture of yarns in which the dark color pre- domlnates, usually of black and white or brown and white in a proportion properly of 90 and 10. Plated. — Hosiery or underwear having the face of one material and the back of another; for instance, a garment hav- ing a silk or wool face and cotton l^ack is called plated. The face may also be of one color and the back of another. both of the same material. See general definitions. Printed. — Low grade fancy stockings on which the design is placed by a print- ing process are called printed hosiery. See general definitions. Ramie. — A long staple, pure-white, silk- like, vegetable fiber of great strength and gradually coming into use in the manufacture of knit goods. See gen- eral definitions. Rembrandt Rib. — Women's stockings hav- ing groups of rive drop-stitches, separ- ated by one inch of plain knitting run- ning the full length of the stocking. Richelieu Rib. — Women's plain stockings having a single drop-stitch at intervals of three-quarters of an inch running the full length of the stocking. Seamless. — Stockings knitted in one piece on a circular machine, leaving an open- ing at the toe to be looped together. The shaping of the leg, heel and toe is obtained by steaming and then dry- ing on boards of proper form. Split Foot. — Black or colored hosiery having a white or unbleached sole. Spun Silk. — A low grade of silk used in the cheaper lines of silk hosiery- It Is made from floss, injured cocoons, husks and waste from reeling. It bears the same relation to silk as cotton waste to cotton or shoddy to wool. Three-Quarter Hose. — Ribbed-top stock- ings made for children and reaching nearly to the knees. Trunk Length. — Women's hosiery mid- way between ordinary and opera length, and which is usually widened gradually above the knee. Twin Needle. — A double row of inter- locked machine stitching used for cov- ering raw edges and seams on knit un- derwear. 32 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Union or Combination Suit. — Underwear combining the upper and nether gar- ment knitted in one piece. Welt. — The double thick portion or wide hem at the top of plain hose. Wrapper. — A child's undershirt buttoning down the front the full length. Knitting Cotton. — A soft, slack-twisted cotton yarn usually marketed in balls and running through the regular yarn sizes, used principally in hand knitting. Knitting Needle. — A straight, polished needle of steel or any stiff material, finished with smooth blunt ends, used for hand knitting. Two are used for flat work and four for stockings or cir- cular work. Knitting Silk. — A slack-twisted yarn or heavy thread made of silk fiber, in- tended for hand knitting and some classes of embroidery. L. Lace. — A cord or string used in beading in- decorating. A cord or string used as a binder or fastener, as a shoe lace, a corset lace. Lace. — A delicate open network formed of fine threads of any fiber or metal, usually ornamented by woven-in designs or appliqued figures. TERMS USED IN LACE MAKING. (NOTE: — The following words and terms are more or less commonly used in descriptions of lace and are here separately defined that they may be of ready access.) Bars. — Connecting threads in needle-point and bobbin laces. Synonymous with Brides, Coxcombs, Purls, Legs, Ties, etc. Bead Edge. — Same as Beading. Beading. — Narrow lace used to edge or join portions of garments. Bobbin. — Lace made on a pillow with threads wound on bobbins. Some pillow laces are made without bobbins. The bobbin threads are twisted and netted about pins stuck in the pillow to outline the pattern. Bobbin lace is softer, more delicate and more pliable than needle- point. Bone. — Bobbin lace so named on account of the small bones of animals and fishes used for bobbins. Bone Point. — Not a needle-point but a very fine quality of bobbin. P.uttonhole Stitch. — A stitch used in making needle-point. Cartifine tkar-ti-zan). — A strip of parch- ment covered with silk or metal thread, used in forming the lace pattern. Close Stitch. — Same as Buttonhole. Cordonnet (kor-do-nay). — The outline or edge of the pattern. Couronnes (koo-rones). — The ornai"cnts worked on the cordonnet. Coxcombs. — Same as Brides. Crowns. — Same as Couronnes. Cut Work.— A Honiton Stitch. Dentele (dan-tah-lay). — A border of scal- lops. Dentelle (den-tel). — French for lace. Previous to 1600 French laces were called passements. Engrelure (an-gray-loor). — Same as Foot- ing. Entoilage (en-tole-a.&, 5, 5}&, and so forth, the French ligne being 1/11 of an inch (.08887). Reduced to fractions of an inch, the two systems repre- sent approximately the following face measurements, or diameters: English lines 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 Fractions of an inch 3/16 & 5/16 11/32 13/32 7/16 % 9-16 19 32 21-32 French lignes 2^ 3 3% 4 4% 5 5& 6 6% 7 Fractions of an inch 7/32 Vi 5/16 11/32 13/32 7/16 %' p.7-32 9-16 % From the above tables it will be seen that the two systems correspond to each other* very nearly as follows: English 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 French 2% 3 3% 4 4^ 5 5% 6 6% 7 COTTON YARNS AND SPOOL COTTON. Cotton yarns are numbered from a basis formed in reeling by which a skein is made up of 80 threads 54 inches (1% yards) long, also called a lea, or rap. The numbar of the yarn is determined by the weight of hanks made up of 7 skeins of S40 yards each; one hank weighing a pound is denoted No. 1 and all multiples are based on that — for instance, 40 hanks! weighing one pound would be No. 40 and would contain 40 times 840 yards of yarn, and so on through the yarn numbers. The following table of equations will illustrate the determination of sizes: 1 lea, or rap=54 inches, or 1% yards. 1 skein=S0 leas=120 yards. 1 hank=7 skeins=560 leas=840 yards. No. 1 yarn= 1 hank = 7 skeins= 560 leas= S40 yards = 1 pound avd. No. 10 yarn= 10 hanks= 70 skeins= 5.600 leas= 8,400 yards=l pound avd. No. 50 yarn= 50 hanks= 350 skeins= 2SO.O0O leas= 42,000 yards=l pound avd. No. 200 yarn=200 hanks=l,400 skeins=l, 120,000 leas=16S,000 yards=l pound avd. And likewise for all numbers of cotton yarns. The original basis of sewing thread, or spool cotton, sizes was formed when it was spun and twisted into three-cord for hand sewing. When three strands of No. 40 yarn were twisted together, the size of the thread was called No. 40, al- though it actually measured three times as large around as No. 40 yarn. All other sizes were likewise determined. When six-cord began to be made to fill a de- mand for a smoother cotton for machine work, the numbers were not changed, but the yarns used were twice as fine, leaving the actual size of the thread the same as before when only three stands were used instead of six. No. 40 thread, when of three cords, or strands, is made of No. 40 cotton yarns, while it is made up of six No. 80 yarns twisted together when it is six-cord, as is most of the spool THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 69 cotton of the present. All other sizes are likewise produced in American mills, but the foreign thread makers change their basis at No. 60, which Is made of No. 110 yarn instead of 120; 70 is made of 120; SO of 130; 90 of 140; 100 of 130, and so on. GLOVES. Standard glove sizes are arrived at by securing the actual inch measurement of the hand around the widest part. French glove sizes range one-quarter size smaller than standard. Thus, suppose the hand measures G inches, the standard size would be 6, and the French size 5?4; in other words, a 6 French glove is in size equal to a 5% standard size. The French or blind system of glove sizes, used with the idea of properly fitting the hand without the customer understanding the size, and similar to the so-called French sizing of shoes, is not generally utilized, but has its ad- vantages. The system employed by a prominent importer is as follows: Glove Size 5% 5% 6 6% 6% 6?i 7 7% 7% 7% 8 Blind Number Y526 Z525 A624 B623 C622 D621 H720 1719 K71S L717 MS16 CHILDREN'S GLOVE SIZES (AVER- AGES). Size 00 for children of 2 to 3 years. Size for children of 3 to 5 years. Size 1 for children of 4 to 6 years. Size 2 for children of 5 to S years. Size 3 for boys of 6 to 9 years. Size 4 for boys of 8 to 11 years. Size 5 for boys of 10 to 13 years. Size ti for boys of 11 to 14 years. HOSIERY. Hose and half-hose must measure in inches from the toe to the heel the same number as the size. Thus, size 8 must measure 8 inches, and so on. This rule is invariable. The following is a list of hosiery sizes used in connection with the correspond- ing sizes of shoes, but it should be borne in mind that all feet are not of the same thickness — a slim foot may not re- quire so large a stocking as a "fat" foot of the same length, no provision for this being made in manufacture. For Children. Size of Size of Age. Hose Shoes / 1% 3 to 6 months 4V4 2 1 year. 5 2% to 3% 1% years. E% 4 to 5% 2 years. t> 6 to 7% 3 to 4 years. 6*2 8 to 9% 6 to 6 years. 7 10 to 11% 7 years. 7% 12 to 13% 8 to 9 years. 8 1 to 2 10 to *1 years. S% 2% to 3% 12 to 13 year*. s 4 and 4% 14 years. o % 5 and 5% 10 6 and 6% 10% 7 and 7% 11 8 to 9 For Women. Size of Size of Hose. Shoes. 8 2 to 3 8% 3% or 4 9 4% or 5 9% 5% or 6 10 6% or 7 10% 7% or 8 For Men. Size of Size of Hose. Shoes. 9% 5% or 6 10 6% or 7 10% 7% f 8 11 8% cr 9 11% 9% or 10 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. LINEN YARN AND THREAD. Linen spinning' is based differently than cotton. The base of linen sizing, or numbering, is a lea, or cut, of 300 yards. 2% yards of yarn make a thread. 120 threads make a lea — 300 yards. The numbering is according to tha number of leas in a pound. When 8 leas weigh 1 lb. avoirdupois it is known as Ss, or No. 8, leas weigh 1 lb. avoirdupois known as 20s, or No. 20, leas weigh 1 ll>. avoirdupois known as 25s, or No. 26, leas weigh 1 lb. avoirdupois known as 50s, or No. 50, and so on. In the making of linen thread the num- ber of the thread is according to the number of the yarn from which it is twisted: three cords of No. 25 yarn twisted together making No. 25 thread, and likewise through all the numbers. The spinning of the fine yarns has to be done wet at a temperature of 120 de- grees. 20 50 it it U is METRIC SYSTEM. As explained in general definitions, the metric system has the only accurate and unchangeable unit; it is the adopted standard of international commerce and the national standard of practically all commercial countries. The following are the equivalents in the Metric System of the ordinary store measures of length, capacity and weight. Length. 1 meter (m) =39.37 inches, or nearly 3 feet 3% inches. 1 decimeter (dm) =3.937 inches. 1 centimeter , cm) =0.3937 inch. 1 millimeter (mm) =0.03937 inch. Capacity. 3V4 1 kiloliter (kl) =264 + gallons. 1 hectoliter (hi) =26.4 gallons, 2 bu., pecks. 1 decaliter (dl)= 2.64 gallons, 9 + quarts. 1 liter (1)=1 + -quart. Weight. 1 millier (t) =2,204.6 pounds, avoirdupois. 1 quintal (q) =220.46 pounds avoirdupois. 1 kilogram (kg) =2.2 pounds avoirdupois. 1 hectogram (hg)=3.52 ounces, avoirdu- pois. 1 decagram (dg) = 154.32 grains troy, .353 ounces, avoirdupois. 1 gram (g) =15.43234874 grains, troy. 1 decigram (deg) =154.32 grains, troy. 1 centigram (eg) =0.15432 grains, troy. 1 milligram (mg) =0.015432 grains, troy. RIBBONS. The origin of ribbon numbering is not certain and matters little, as manufac- turers are a law unto themselves and the sizes, or numbers, do not indicate a fixed base of measurement. The French ligne, or line, is slightly less than one-eleventh of an inch (.08887) and is the only fixed measurement. When ribbons are sold by the ligne the prices are always based on ten-yard lengths, and five cents a ligne means fifty cents a piece for a ribbon that measures ten lignes in width, $1.10 for a ribbon that measures 22 lignes, and so on. A ribbon may measure less than the average width of the number with which it is marked and be apparently low in price when offered by ligne measurement to a buyer not familiar with correspond- ing measurements, which must be considered. When the widths as numbered measure as indicated in the following table, the comparison of lignes and numbers is easy; but this computation is made only up to No. 16. The table is to be read, "When number 1 measures 7/32 inches it is 2M lignes wide," and so forth. When Number 1 1% 2 3 4 5 7 9 12 16 Measures Inches 7/32 11/32 7/16 % 23/32 % 1% 119-32 129-32 2 11-32 It Is Lignes Wide 2% 4 5 6% 8 10 13 18 22 25 To determine the ligne measurement of any other width, measure the distance across the face of the ribbon and divide by .08887, or 1/11, the former figure being tha most accurate. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HAND'S DICTIONARY. SILK YARNS AND SILK THREADS. spun silk yarns are numbered, or sized, according: to the number of hanks of S40 yards each contained in a pound ayoirdupois; twenty hanks to the pound being known as No. 40, 30 being known as No. 60, and so on. Raw or thrown silk has a different numbering which is allowed to vary according to the purpose for which the yarn is to be used and also somewhat according to the practices of the manufacturers. A so-called inter- national agreement on yarn sizes is in existence and officially recognized by Germany and France but it has no bind- ing features and is not closely adhered to by manufacturers, the most of them pre- ferring their old forms. Silk thread — sewing silk and machine twist — are manufactured from "thrown" silk, so-named from an old Saxon de- rivation meaning "to twist". The fila- ments of silk are drawn from the co- coon and reeled by the filature in groups of two or more at a time into one thread; this becomes the raw silk of commerce, when put up in hanks or bundles. This raw silk is "thrown" in the gum. or before cleansing, for manu- facture into sewing silk and machine twist. Throwing is winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting, rewinding and reel- ing the raw thread. Thrown silk is known as singles, tram and organzine. Singles is a single fila- ture thread twisted; tram is two or more singles twisted only sufficiently to hold them together; organzine is two or more singles twisted in the opposite di- rection from their original twist. "Sewing silk" is of two strands rather lightly twisted and was originally the thread of commerce. At present, com- mercially, all two-strand silk threads are sewing silk and include embroideries, knitting, rope. etc. "Machine twist" is the silk on spools ordinarily termed silk thread and is composed of three strands of thrown silk. It was first manufactured in 1852 to meet the requirements of the sewing ma- chine for something smoother than the old sewing silk. The machine twist is stretched by special machinery before finishing to insure smoothness and even- ness — a very important process — after which it is cleansed and dyed. The sizing of machine twist is noi based on any reference to textile thread sizes but has an irregularity all its own. The lettering is according to each manu- facturer's own schedule, although there is slight variation. The thread is put on spools according to weight and the yard- age of the size, or letter, In an ounce varies according to the thickness and strength of the silk; long yardage repre- sents a weaker thread than short yard- age. Most manufacturers prefer giving quality to mere length and false lettering. The point of starting is letter A. being the ordinary, or medium, size, and in the best threads should measure 900 yards in full twelve-ounce goods: the sizes should increase and decrease by hun- dred-yard lengths, approximately, and the table of sizes should read: 000=1250 to 1300 yards in an ounce. 00=1110 to 1150 yards in an ounce. = 1000 yards in an ounce. A= 900 yards in an ounce. B= S00 yards in an ounce. C= 700 yards In an ounce. D= 600 yards in an ounce. E= 500 yards in an ounce. EE= 400 yards in an ounce. F= 300 yards in an ounce. FF= 200 yards in an ounce. G= 100 yards in an ounce. Manufacturers state these figures to be approximate but not absolute. THE DRYGOODSMAN'S UAX11V DICTIONARY. Trade Leather Terms Acid Tanned. — (See "Tanning".) Belting. — Usually bark tanned cowhide, used in various thicknesses tor ma- chinery belts. Bloom. — (See "Spewing".) Box Calf. — A proprietary leather having a grain of rectangularly crossed lines. Buff. — A split side leather, coarser than "glove grain", but otherwise similar. Cabaretta. — Tanned sheepskin of superior finish used for shoe stock. Calfskin. — Skins of neat cattle of all kinds, from Texas long-horns to the sacred cattle of India weighing up to 15 lbs. Chrome Tanned. — (See "Tanning".) Coltskin. — The skin of a colt, which is thin enough to use in its entirety, with such shaving as is given all hides in tanning. Makes a firm basis needed for patent leather and is much used for this purpose. Composition. — Small scraps that accumu- late about tanneries and factories, ground up and mixed with a paste or kind of cement and flattened into sheets by pressure and used as insoles and in other parts of various grades of shoes. Cordovan. — As used now, the term is ap- plied to a grain split from the best and strongest part of a horsehide. Cowhide. — Used to refer to hides of cattle heavier than "kips", which run up to 25 lbs. each. Dongola. — Heavy, plump goatskin, tanned with a semi-bright finish. Enamel. — Leather that is given a shiny finish on the "grain" side as distingu- ished from "patent leather", which is usually finished on the flesh side, or surface, of a split. Glazed Kid.— (See "Kid".) Glove Grain. — a light, soft finished split leather, for women's or children's shoes or topping. Goatskins. — (See "Kid".) Grain. — (See under "Calfskins".) — The hair side of the skin in which show the marking of texture caused by pores, etc. Harness Leather.— Similar to belting, and made from hides heavier than kips. Hides. — Those skins of cattle which are above 25 lbs. in weight; also skins of horses, etc. ; a trade distinction only. Hemlock T?nned. — (See "Tanning".) Kangaroo. — The skin of this animal makes splendid leather, of firm texture, but there are kangaroos by nature, and kangaroos that become so by postmor- tem brevet in the tannery. Packer Hides. — Those taken off in the large slaughtering houses. Rated slight- ly higher in price, because of the greater care and skill used in taking them off. Kid. — This term is applied to shoe leath- er made from the skins of mature goats. The skin of the young goat or kid is made into the thin, flexible leather used in making kid gloves, being too delicate for general use in shoes. The goats from which comes the supply of leather used in this coun- try for most ladies' fine shoes, many children's shoes and an increasing num- ber of men's shoes, are not of the com- mon domesticated kind known in this country, but are wild goats or allied species partially domesticated, and are found in the hill regions of India, the mountains of Europe, portions of South America, etc. The process of tanning is naturally quicker than the tanning of heavier hides, and all varie- ties of tannage are used, the chrome methods having come into very gen- eral use. There are many kinds of finish given, such as glazed, dull. matt, patent, etc. One quality that dis- tinguishes goat leather, the "kid" of shoe making, is the fact that the fibers of the skin are interlaced and inter- locked in all directions. Instead of ripping straight through, like a piece of cloth, or splitting apart in layers, as sheepskin will do when made into leather, the kid holds together firmly in all directions. The finished skins as they come from the tannery, by what- ever process they may be put through. are sorted for size and quality, a num- ber of grades being made. This sort- ing is repeated in the shoe factory, sometimes repeatedly, the effort being made to secure in each lot or grade of shoes made as nearly perfect in uni- formity of texture and quality and weight as possible. This is a work of importance, and one requiring good practical knowledge of leather. No two skins come through exactly alike. They vary as to fineness, thickness and size, some are scarred by careless skinning; THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. 73 some have had spots caused by care- less handling before they reach the tannery; some are given too strong a dose of chemicals in the tanning it- self; all these things are considered in all the many sortings that take place in their progress through the tannery and the shoe factory, from the raw skin to the finished product, regard being had to the quality and kind of shoe it is desired to produce. (The same sorting, it may be said, is done with all leathers.) Kip.— (See Canskin.) Matt. — A term applied to dull-finish kid, as distinguished from "glazed", etc. Morocco. — Originally a leather made in the country of that name, a sumac- tanned goatskin, red in color, such as is still made there and in Europe and used for book-binding. The name is applied also to leather made in imita- tion of this, and in general to heavy, plump goatskin, used for shoes. Monkey Skin. — This has a peculiar grain, and is: among leathers that may be classed as fancy. It is often imi- tated. Oak-tanned. — (See Tanning.) Ooze. — A chrome tan calfskin treated on the flesh side in such a manner that the long fibers are loosened and form a nap surface. Made in many colors. Pancake. — One of many "artificial leath- ers", so-called, made from leather scraps, shaved thin and cemented to- gether under heavy pressure. Patent Leather (kid, calf, etc.)— There is no longer any patent on the prin- cipal processes tnat are required to make what is known as patent leather, which might be described with fair ac- curacy by calling it japanned or var- nished leather. Calfskin is shaved on the flesh side to uniform thickness, and successive coats of liquid black var- nish are applied, the first coats being dried and rubbed down, so as to work the liquid thoroughly into the fiber of the leather. The last coat is applied with a brush, and is allowed to dry in direct sunlight, which seems to be es- sential. Various formulas are used in making the varnish, vegetable gums and oils forming important ingredients. Like any other such coating, it is liable to crack. The really conscientious dealer can always guarantee patent leather shoes to do that sooner or later, if worn. Kid and coltskin have been largely used during the past year as a basis for patent leather. The former is more elastic, and It seems possible to give it some degree of porosity, thus removing one serious objection to the use of patent leather for shoes, name- •v: its air-tightness — an objection urged by consideration of both hygiene and comfort. Satin Calf.— A grain split, stuffed with oil and smooth finished. Seal Grain. — Usually a flesh split, with an artificial "grain" or kind of in- dented tracery, which is stamped or printed on the finished leather. Sheepskin. — Used largely for linings and for cheap shoes for women and chil- dren. It is too soft and weak in tex- ture for heavy wear, and is liable to split and tear. Skins. — (As distinguished from "hides." — See Hides.) Sole Leather. — Made from the heavier hides of cattle, and tanned with nak or hemlock bark (various other vege- table extracts sometimes being used). The oak-tanned is preferred, and may be known by its light color. The hem- lock-tanned is of a red shade. In "union tanned" hides, both oak and hemlock are used, and the result is a compromise in both color and quality. Spewing. — Shoes in stock sometimes be- come coated with a grayish white pow- dery substance, that looks like mildew. This formation on leather that is not fully seasoned is called "spewing". and the deposit is called "bloom". It can readily be wiped off, and does not indicate any serious defect or trouble with the leather. It is not a mildew or growth, but apparently an exuda- tion of materials used in tanning. Splits. — Are what the name implies, split leather. A thick hide, often be- fore the tanning process is completed, and after being cut in two down the back into "sides," is run through a machine between rollers and imping- ing upon a sharp knife edge, that splits it into two or more sheets. The knife used might be described as a flexible razor three feet long, and must be kept perfectly straight and as keen as it can be made. Its care and use requires a considerable amount of skill. and tanners say that to teach a new splitter the trade costs them at least a thousand dollars in damaged and im- perfectly split leather. A split from a heavy hide is. of course, not as good as the whole of a lighter hide, light THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. enough to make leather of the thick- ness required, without splitting. Hides above the weight of "kips" (25 pounds) are used, ordinarily, and the leather that is intended for use in shoes re- ceives various finishes and is known by various names, such as seal grain, buff, glove grain, oil grain, satin calf, russet, plow shoe, etc. Suede. — A trade term applied to kid skins, finished on the flesh side. Some leather makers have applied this term to velvet finished calfskins on the grain side, which is not regarded as entirely correct. Made in many colors. Tanning. — It is impossible to give in small space a description of all the de- tails of tanning, but the basic principle is the treatment of the raw skin with tannic acid or some similar substance having an astringent or "puckery" ef- fect. The hides or skins, of whatever kind, are first thoroughly soaked and cleaned, large ones usually being cut in two up the back into "sides" for convenient handling. The next step is the removal of the hair, which is ef- fected either by a sweating process, the hides being hung up in warm rooms and kept there almost to the beginning point of decomposition, or by soaking in a solution containing lime. As soon as the hair follicles are sufficiently dis- solved hy either process as to permit of the hair or wool being easily pulled or scraped off, the hides are worked through machines or by hand. Further soaking in "vats" of solutions to coun- teract the lime follows, and the skins are ready for the tanning proper. In the methods that involve the use of oak or hemlock bark or other vegetable ex- tracts, the hides are placed in vats of solution of varying strength, and worked hack and forth for a number of weeks. T'pon completion of this stage, the stock receives its final dressing and is stuffed with oil or grease, dyed black, polished, etc., according to the results desired. Sole leather is oiled but slightly and is dried and rolled smooth. The "chrome" process involves the use of a salt of chromium usually bichromate of potash, with muriatic acid. This process is very quick action, taking but a few hours for the tanning, the hides being pre- pared as for the bark tanning. Both goatskins and calfskins are tanned by the chrome process, making a strong, durable leather, with considerable water resisting power. Every detail of all processes involves care and experienced skill, and there is an infinite variety of finished products from the highest glove or fancy leather to the heaviest sole leather. Chrome tanned leathers are given a comparatively dry finish, although some oil, dissolved in acid, is used. Tawing. — Making leather by soaking hides in a solution of salt and alum, or by packing down with dry salt and pow- dered alum — essentially a tanning pro- cess. It is used to prepare skin rugs and furs. Velours. — French for "velvet". A trade name for a proprietary chrome tanned calf. The leather is of smooth and vel- vety finish and excellent quality. Vicl. — A proprietary trade name for a brand of chrome tanned kid, which has almost become a generic name, by com- mon use and sometimes not intentional misappropriation. Viscolizing. — A proprietary method of water-profing sole-leather, evidently by the use of some partly emulsified oils, with a water resisting tendency. The viscolized soles are used in hunting and sporting boots, the method softening the leather to some extent. Revised Shoe Glossary. Backstay. — A strip of leather covering and strengthening the back seam of a shoe; "English backstay." one that meets the quarters on each side and is sewed to them, forming the lower part of the back of the shoe; "California backstay," a term sometimes applied to piping caught in the back seam. Bal, (an abbreviation of the word "Bal- moral") — A front lace shoe, of medium height, men's, women's or children's, as distinguished from one that is ad- justed to the ankle by buttons, buckles, rubber goring, etc.. and from the "Blucher," "Polish," "Oxford," etc. Ball— of the foot; the fleshy part of the bottom, back of the toes. TirE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. Beading. — Folding in the edges of upper leather, instead of leaving them raw. Bellows Tongue. — A hoard tongue sewed to the sides of the top, as in waterproof and some working shoes. Blackball. — A mass of grease and lamp- black, formerly used by shoemakers on edges of heels and soles; sometimes called "cobbler's botch". Blucher. — A shoe or naif boot, originated by Field Marshal Blucher of the Prus- sian army, in the time of the first Na- poleon. It at once became very popu- lar, and has since received occasional favor, being used with high tops as a sporting or hunting boot. Its distin- guishing feature is the extension for- ward 01 the quarters, to lace across the tongue which may be an extension up- ward of the vamp. Boot. — The term is sometimes used (es- pecially abroad) to designate ladies' high cut shoes. Here it applies only to high topping footwear, usually made with the tops stiff and solid, sometimes laced, as in hunting boots. Bootee. — ^ boot with short top or leg, usually made with rubber goring over the ankle, sometimes with a lace front to imitate the appearance of a shoe in wearing. Boxing. — Stiffening material placed in the toe of a snoe to support it and retain the shape; leather, composition, zinc, wire net, drilling stiffened with shellac. etc., are used. Brogan. — A heavy pegged or nailed work shoe, medium cut in height. Cack. — An infant's shoe made with a sole leather bottom without a heel. Channel Stitched.— A method of fastening soles to the upper, either by the McKay or Welt process, in which a portion of the sole on the outer side is channeled into and the stitches afterwards cov- ered on the lower side by the lip of this channel. Cap. — Same as tip. Case — of shoes; so far as quantity is con- cerned, the contents of cases of differ- ent shoes vary. Men's boots and shoes usually come twelve pairs to the case; women's twenty-four to thirty-six pairs; children's as high as seventy-two pairs. Cases for foreign shipment are made much larger. Estimates of shipments are usually based on the number of cases, one reason for this being that it is much easier to tabulate the ship- ment from any point by collecting re- ports direct from the freight houses, where the handlers count the packages, with no means of knowing the precise contents. Channel Screwed. — A process by which the sole is fastened to the uppers in the following manner; After a channel is cut and laid over on the outside of the uutsole, the outer sole and inner sole are fastened together holding the up- per and lining between them by means of wire screws which are fastened in this channel. The skived • part is then smoothed down over the heads of the screws entirely covering them from sight and affording a means by which the screws are not easily worked up into the foot. Colonial. — A ladies' low shoe, with vamp extended into a flaring tongue, with a large, ornamental buckle across over in- step. The buckle and tongue as dis- tinctive features, whether the shoe fas- tens with lace or strap. Combination Last. — One with a different width instep than the ball. It may be one or two widths difference, such as the C ball with an A instep. Combin- ation lasts are as a rule used to tit ab- normally low insteps. Congress Gaiter. — A shoe with rubber goring in the side which adjusts it to the ankle, instead of laces, etc. Counter. — The piece of stiffening mate- rial that passes around the heel of the foot to support the outer leather and prevent the shoe from "running over" at the heel. It is made of sole-leather, shaved thin on the edge and shaped by machinery, in the best shoes. Is made of composition or paper, in cheap shoes, and metal is occasionally used, sometimes on the outside of the shoe in heavy goods for miners and furnace- men. Creedmore. — A heavy, men's lace shoe, with gusset, blucher cut. Creole. — A heavy congress work shoe; these and creedmores, brogans and "Dom Pedros" are usually made of oil grain, kip or split leather, sometimes pegged, sometimes "stitched down". Cushion Sole. — An elastic inner sole (proprietary). Dom Pedro. — A heavy, one-buckle shoe, with gusset or bellows tongue. Orig- inally a proprietary name, and shoes so 76 THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. called were made of fine material, now usually in cheap grades. Eyelet. — A small ring of metal, etc., placed in the holes for lacing; the eye- let-holes are sometimes worked with thread like a button hole. Fair Stitch. — Stitching that shows around the outer edge of the sole, usually to give a McKay the appearance of a welt shoe. Form. — A term applied to a filler last. They may be of wood, papier mache. leather board or any material and are used to enhance the appearance of sample shoes, either in salesmen's lines or in retail window displays. Foxed. — Having the lower part of the quarter a separate piece of leather or covered by an extra piece; "slipper foxed", a term sometimes applied to ladies' full vamp shoes. Foxing. — That part of the upper that extends from the sole to the laces in front and to about the height of the counter in the back, being the length of the upper. It may be in one or more pieces and is often cut down to the shank in circular form. If in two pieces, that part covering the counter is called a heel fox. French Heel. — See heel. French Sizes. — See size. Gaiter. — Usually applied to a congress shoe, sometimes to separate ankle cov- ering. Goodyear Welt.— See welt. Heel. — Varieties: "Cuban heel", a high straight heel, without the curve of the "French or "Louis XV" heel, which is of extreme height, and is thrust for- ward under the foot with a curved out- line in back and "breast", or front sur- face; sometimes made of wood cov- ered with leather, with "top-lift" of thickness of sole leather, sometimes of all sole leather; "military" heel, a straight heel, not so h*igh as a Cuban; "spring" heel, a low heel formed by ex- tending back the outsole of the shoe to the heel, with a "slip" inserted between outsole and heel-seat; "wedge" heel, one somewhat similar to a spring heel, except with a wedge shaped lift tacked on the outside instead of a slip. Heel Pad. — In the manufacture of shoes is a small piece of felt, leather or other substance, fastened to and covering the full width of the insole at the point upon which the heel rests. A heel cushion is sometimes called a heel pad. Heel-Seat. — The rounded hollow of the heel of a shoe, formed by use of the "rand" and the curving of the counter. Inlay. — A trimming of the upper by an insertion of the same or different kind of material than that of the body of which it is inlaid. It is used for decor- ative purposes on a shoe. Insole. — The inner sole to which in "Mc- Kay" and "welt" shoes the upper and the outsole are sewed or nailed. Instep — The top of the arch of the foot. Iron. — A term indicating thickness of sole leather, as it is one thirty-second of an inch. Juliette. — A women's house slipper which is cut a little above the ankle in front and back and is cut down on the sides. They are usually fur trimmed. The same style in kid with goring in sides is called a "Juliette" by some manu- facturers. Lace-Stay. — The strip of leather re-in- forcing the eyelet holes. Lace Hook. — An eyelet extended into a recurved hook, around which the lace is looped. Last. — The wooden form over which the shoe is constructed, giving the shoe its distinctive shape. Lift. — One thickness of the sole leather used in making a heel; "top" lift, the bottom lift when the shoe is right side up. Lining. — Usually made of some form of drilling, and in the best shoes as care- fully cut and fitted as the upper. McKay Sewed 1 . — (Or simply "McKay") A shoe in which the outsole is attached to the insole and upper by a method named for the inventor. The upper is lasted over an inner sole, the last re- moved, and the outsole sewed on by a thread that goes through from the outside, catching upper and inner sole, and leaving the seam showing on the inside. Before sewing a channel is cut and laid over on the outside of the out- sole and afterward pasted back over the seam as in welts. Mock Welt. — McKay sewed shoe with a double sole and having a leather sock lining. It is fair stitched to imitate a welt. Mules. — Slippers with no counter or quarter. Nullifier. — A shoe with a high vamp and quarter, dropping low at the sides, THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. made with a short rubber goring, for summer or house wear. Oxford. — A low cut shoe, no higher than the instep, lace, button, or goring, made in men's, women's and children's sizes. Pacs. — Coverings for the feet made of good quality calf-skin similar in form and appearance to the Indian moccasin. They do not have sole leather bottom. If properly made, they are waterproof. Used sometimes in plowing in soft ground. Pasted Counter. — A counter cut from two pieces of sole leather pasted together. Sometimes called two-piece counter. Pattern. — The models by which the pieces composing the upper of a shoe are cut. Polish. — A ladies' or misses' front lace shoe of higher cut than a "bal". Pump. — A low cut shoe originally having no fastening such as laces or buttons. Recent patterns, however, are being made with one eyelet on either side or straps. A pump is cut lower than the instep. Pump Sole. — An extra light single sole running clear through to the back of the heel, a Yankee trade term for single sole McKay. A pump sole in former years was distinguished by its flexibility and was hand-turned. The present day term, however, is applied to extra light weight soles; being lighter weight than the regular single sole and, are usually seen on men's heavy work shoes. Quarter. — The back portion of the upper of a shoe covering the counter and ex- tending forward, containing the lace eyelets. Rand. — A piece of leather at the top of a heel, extending around the heel un- der the sole, with the inner edge made thin, so as to torm with the curved counter a rounded inside for the heel of the wearer to rest in. Sabot (sah'bo). — A one-piece wooden shoe, carved from a single block of wood. Sometimes a heavy wooden soled shoe. Sandal. — A ladies' strap slipper; origin- ally applied to a sole fastened on the foot by thongs or straps, of ancient use. Heel -less soles with openwork uppers made for children, usually fastened with straps and buckles. Screw-Fastened. — Having the sole at- tached with screws, as In cheap or work- ing shoes. Shank — The middle portion of the bot- tom of a shoe, that comes under the arch of the foot; "shank steel", a curved piece of steel built Into the shank to support it. Slip. — Applied to spring heels or to soles; a thin piece of sole leather inserted above the outer sole. Slipper. — A light, low shoe for indoor wear; may be plain or ornamented to any degree. Sizes.— The smallest shoes, "infants'," run from 1 to 5; then "children's" in two series. 5 to 8, and 8% to 11; then they branch out into "youths' " and "miss- es' ", both running 11%, 12, 12%, 13, 13% and back again to 1, 1% and 2, in a new series of sizes that run up into "men's" and "women's"; "boys'" shoes run from 2% to 5%; "men's" from 6 to 11, in regular runs. Larger sizes are, of course, made, but only upon special orders. Some few manufacturers go to 12, but not many. Women's sizes run from i.% to 9. Some makers do not go above 8's. The scale of sizes is some- times varied from by manufacturers of specialties. The "little gents'," usually from 10 to 13%, is an incidental run of sizes. Size No. 1, in infants', is (or was originally) four inches long; each added full size indicates an increase in length of one-third of an inch. A man's No. 8 shoe, therefore, would be about 11 inches long. These measurements are not now absolute. They were originated in England. What is known as "French sizes" refers to a cypher system of marking to indicate these sizes as well as widths, so that the real size need not be known to the customer. Ameri- can ingenuity is too modest in giving this useful idea: a foreign label. An example of a Frencn size system, in actual use from the catalogue of a well known firm, is here given: Widths AA A B C D E EE Mark 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Sizes.. 1 1% 2 2% 3 3% 4 4% 5 Mark. 20 20- 21 21- 22 22- 23 23- 24 5% 6 6% 7 7% 24- 25 25- 26 26- In using this system, instead of having widths markea A, B. etc., the number just below the letter in the above key is used. The same with sizes, so tnat, for instance, a No. 6 shoe, D width, 7S THE DRYGOODSMAN'S HANDY DICTIONARY. would be marked simply "1325". The second figure, and the fourth, are the ones for the salesman to remember. The second figure, 3, is one less than the number of the size letter, D, which is the fourth letter; and the fourth figure in the mark, which is 5, is likewise one less than the correct number of the size of the shoe, 6. The mark "1325" would convey no information to the cus- tomer. Soft Tip. — A torm applied to a shoe on which no underlying boxing is used un- der the tip. Soles. — Varieties and modifications; a "full double" sole has two thicknesses of leather extending clear back to the heel; "half double" sole, a full outer sole with slip extending back to shank; "single" sole, is self-defining: "tap" is a half-sole. Stitch-Down. — A shoe in which the top is turned out instead of under, and stitched down through the sole. Stitched Aloft.— A term applied to a method of fastening shoes by the Good- year welt system by which the stitch- ing shows on the bottom side. Straight Last. — One that is neither right nor left and a shoe made over such a last can be worn on either foot. This term is sometimes applied to right and left shoes that have a barely perceptible outside swing. Swing. — A term applied to the curve of the outer edge of a sole. Tip. — An extra piece covering the toe, separate from the vamp; "stock tip," a tip of the same material as the vamp; "patent tip," a patent leather tip; "dia- mond tip," refers to the shape, extend- ing back to a point; "imitation tip," stitching across the vamp in imitation of a tip. Top Facing. — The strip ot leather or band of cloth around the top of the shoe on the Inside. It adds to the finish and beauty of the lining and is sometimes used for advertising the name of the manufacturer or retailer by having' a design of letters woven or sewed in or on it. Turned Shoe. — (.or "turn" shoe); a ladies' fine shoe, that is made wrong side out, then "turned" right side out, which op- eration necessitates the use of a thin, flexible sole of good quality. The sole is fastened to the last, the upper is lasted over it wrong side out, then the two are sewed together, the thread catching through a channel or shoulder cut in the edge of the sole. The seam does not come through to the bottom of the sole where it would chafe the foot on the inside. If you have a new cob- bler be sure that he understands the construction of a turn shoe before he tries to repair one. Upper. — A term applied collectively to the upper parts of a shoe. Vamp. — The front part of the upper of a shoe; "cut off" vamp, one that ex- tends only to the "tip", instead of be- ing continued to the toe and lasted un- der with the tip; "whole" vamp, one that extends to the heel, without a seam. The vamp is the most impor- tant piece of the upper, and should be cut from the strongest and clearest part of the skin. Vesting. — A material originally designed, as its name would indicate, for making fancy vests. As used in shoes, it is made with fancy figured weave, having a backing of stiff buckram or rubber treated tissue to strengthen it. Welt. — A narrow strip of leather that is sewed to the upper of a shoe, with an insole, leaving the edge of the welt ex- tending outward, so that the outsole can then be attached by sewing through both welt and outsole, around the outside of the shoe. The at- taching of the sole and upper thus involves two sewings; first the insole, welt and upper, then the outsole to the welt. The name is applied to the shoe itself when made in this way, as distin- guished from a "turned" or "McKay sewed" shoe. This was (and is) the method used by cobblers, in the pro- duction of hand sewed shoes, to fasten together the sole and upper; "Good- year welt," a welt shoe in which the sewing is done by machines, named for the inventor, the Elias Howe of the shoe world. There are very few hand-welted shoes made, although many are so des- ignated. Widths in Rubbers. — A complete lis; is; S, Mim; N, Narrow; M, Medium; F, Full; FF, Extra Full; W, Wide; WW. Extra Wide. (For width of shoes eee sizes.) ... "? t9!2 iiiiiiiiili ' 018 447 181 4 •