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 ON SLEDGE 
 
 AND 
 
 HORSEBACK 
 
 TO THE OUTCAST SIBERIAN LEPERS 
 
 Illustrated from Photographs and Drawings 
 
 DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION 
 TO 
 
 Her Most Gracious and Imperial Majesty the Queen 
 
 KATE MARSDEN 
 
 MEMBER (SPECIAL BADGE) OF THE ROYAL BRITISH NURSES* 
 ASSOCIATION, MEMBER AND MEDALIST OF THE RUSSIAN 
 IMPERIAL RED CROSS SOCIETY, ETC., ETC., FEL- 
 LOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
 
 ffOl/A 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 104 & 106 Fourth Avenue 
 
Copyright, 1892, by 
 CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY. 
 
 A II rights reserved. 
 
 
 i& 
 
 THE MERSHON COMPANY PRESS, 
 RAHWAY, N. J. 
 
1* 
 
 ^ 
 
 TO 
 HER MOST GRACIOUS AND IMPERIAL MAJESTY 
 
 Ube Queen, 
 
 The most Queenly Woman and the most Womanly Queen of Whom the 
 
 History of the World has ever told ; 
 
 Whose keen Sympathy with Suffering has made Her, Personally, 
 
 as Beloved as the Progress of the British Empire, under 
 
 *■ Her Rule, has made Her Throne Magnificent, 
 
 This Story 
 
 Of a Woman 1 's Work 
 
 on Behalf of Helpless, Hopeless, and Homeless Outcasts 
 
 is, with the Most Profound Respect and Humble Gratitude, 
 
 Dedicated. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The first practical step preparatory to commencing 
 this work among the lepers was my presentation to 
 Her Majesty the Queen in 1890. I sought this honor, 
 knowing that it would help me in carrying on the work 
 in foreign countries. Three days after the presentation 
 Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales commanded 
 my attendance at Marlborough House for the purpose 
 of hearing particulars of what I proposed to do. Her 
 Royal Highness showed the warmest interest and 
 sympathy, and promised to write and solicit the ap- 
 proval and assistance of Her Imperial Majesty the 
 Empress of Russia, in accomplishing the end I had 
 in view. 
 
 At my audience with the Empress my most sanguine 
 expectations were realized. Her Imperial Majesty 
 showed the utmost kindness, entered heartily into my 
 plans, and gave me an invaluable letter, requesting 
 Russian officials to facilitate my wishes in visiting 
 hospitals and leper settlements in the empire. This 
 letter was as follows : 
 
 "(Dated St. Petersburg, April 20 [May 2], 1890.) 
 " The bearer of this, the British subject, Miss Kate 
 
vi Preface. 
 
 Marsden, is proceeding to Siberia with the object of 
 devoting herself wholly and entirely to the care of the 
 lepers. Before her departure for Siberia Miss Marsden 
 visited St. Petersburg, and had the happiness of being 
 presented to Her Majesty the Empress. Afterward she 
 inspected some of the hospitals here, and has now the 
 intention of inspecting the like in other towns and places 
 of the empire. H. I. M., estimating at its worth the 
 highly Christian and sincerely philanthropic significance 
 of the journey so undertaken by the traveler, and also 
 all its difficulty, has been pleased to command me to 
 hand to her these lines, that she might show them to all 
 persons in authority in such hospitals as she may desire 
 to visit. H. M. the Empress will be extremely grateful 
 to the said authorities if they will give Miss Marsden 
 their co-operation during her inspection of the hospi- 
 tals in charge, especially those in which occur patients 
 suffering from leprosy. 
 
 (Signed) " Prince Ivan Golitsyn." 
 
 Again, on my return journey from Siberia, while 
 resting in Tomsk, Her Majesty's unbounded gracious- 
 ness was again shown by the following telegram, sent 
 in response to one I had the honor of sending to Her 
 Imperial Majesty, on the occasion of their Majesties' 
 silver wedding day : 
 
 " Very many thanks for your good wishes. Hope you 
 are getting on well. Empress." 
 
Preface. vii 
 
 The rest of my story is contained in the following 
 pages ; but I desire, in this place, to draw special atten- 
 tion to one or two further matters of importance. 
 
 I appeal to all true English-speaking men and women 
 not to find in this book fresh causes of complaint 
 against Russia, but to exhibit, rather, by their sympathy, 
 a spirit of union in Christian and philanthropic work, 
 as well as the same forgetfulness of sect and creed 
 which was shown by our Lord in his works of love and 
 mercy. 
 
 In our little company at Yakutsk, away in the north- 
 east of Siberia, there were three nations and three 
 religions represented — Russians, Yakuts, English ; the 
 Greek, the Roman Catholic, and the Protestant 
 Churches. Most of my escort were members of the 
 Greek Church. The ispravnick (Captain of the Police) 
 was a Catholic, and I a Protestant. Throughout our 
 journey there was not a word of discussion or dispute 
 on the religious differences between us ; we were all 
 bent on reaching the lepers and being of service to 
 them. Later, on my return to St. Petersburg, when the 
 Greek priest up in Viluisk, beyond Yakutsk, heard I 
 was ill, he at once held a special service to pray for my 
 health, the Catholic ispravnick and the principal Yakuts 
 who accompanied me being present. The next day the 
 ispravnick sent for the Greek father to hold another 
 service in his house for the same purpose. The letters 
 which I received from these men bear ample testimony 
 
viii Preface. 
 
 to the entire absence of all bitter sentiment from reli- 
 gious differences. 
 
 I have never taken any active part in promoting 
 temperance principles, but now I think that the record 
 of my exertions in Siberia, without the aid of stimulants, 
 may prove as beneficial to others as if my voice had 
 been raised in furthering the cause for years past. I 
 took no alcohol whatever throughout the journey, 
 except on two occasions of great exhaustion, when the 
 stimulants only made me worse. I have, therefore, 
 good ground for recommending abstinence from alcohol 
 where much physical endurance is necessary. 
 
 Humanly speaking, I believe I owe my life to this 
 abstinence, and also to Jaeger clothing, without which 
 it would have been quite impossible to go through all 
 the changes of climate, and to remain for weeks together 
 without changing my clothes. 
 
 I wish to bear grateful testimony to the warm 
 sympathy and assistance given to me at the American 
 Embassy, St. Petersburg. The assurance of America's 
 friendship and willingness to co-operate has raised the 
 highest hopes with regard to my American lecturing 
 tour, which I propose to commence at once. As Russia 
 helped America in the past, so America can help Russia 
 now. I am proud to be a member of the " King's 
 Daughters"; and I venture to ask the members of that 
 Union to help the work by selling this book and the 
 photographs, and forming " tens " for that purpose and 
 
Preface. ix 
 
 for collecting donations, which may be sent to my 
 headquarters. 
 
 The appeal which I have made to American women 
 I would also make to all members of my sex, both 
 in England and everywhere ; for this leper work is 
 essentially women's work. Such co-operation may be 
 carried out by inducing friends to buy the book, and 
 also the photographs, which were taken and printed in 
 Moscow, and which may be had by writing to my head- 
 quarters, 376 Strand, London, W. C. 
 
 I cannot bring these remarks to a conclusion without 
 expressing,- in the most emphatic manner I know how, 
 my heartfelt sense of obligation to Mr. Henry Johnson, 
 without whose literary aid and experience this record 
 irfits present form would have been impossible. He 
 has helped me at every turn of the narrative ; and, 
 indeed, the book owes its literary characteristics to his 
 skill. I also desire to give my acknowledgment for 
 the courtesy I have received from all I have come in 
 contact with. 
 
 Readers of the following pages must bear in mind 
 that in the whole world there was no one more un- 
 worthy, more full of faults and failings, than I, to 
 undertake this leper work. And my earnest hope is 
 that what God has enabled me to do may encourage 
 others, however far down in the scale, or however much 
 they may have turned from God, not merely to " da 
 likewise," but to throw all their strength into greater 
 
x Preface. 
 
 work than that to which my poor life is dedicated. 
 One rule we must constantly observe — to set our faces 
 heavenward. 
 
 On behalf of all such workers for the furtherance of 
 Christ's kingdom, and for the good of humanity, I 
 venture to repeat the prayer contained in a letter which 
 I received, shortly before setting out to Siberia, from 
 that ideal servant of the sick and suffering, dear to 
 every Englishwoman : 
 
 " May the Father Almighty, Omniscient, who is Infi- 
 nite Love, be your Guide and your Help, is the prayer of 
 "Yours sincerely, 
 
 "Florence Nightingale." 
 
ON SLEDGE AND HORSEBACK 
 
 TO THE 
 
 OUTCAST SIBERIAN LEPERS. 
 
 CHAPTER I, 
 
 CLEARING THE WAY. 
 
 The writer's object — Kindness of Her Imperial Majesty, the Empress 
 of Russia — The herb reputed to arrest the progress of leprosy — 
 A life mission — Christ's lepers — "No remedy" — Efforts to re- 
 £. lieve the sufferings of lepers — " Shoot them ! " — The claims of 
 religion and humanity — Lepers in the East — What people think 
 — Arrival in Moscow — The "Golden-Headed City" — Prince 
 Dolgoroukow — Journeys to St. Petersburg, and the gift of the 
 Empress — Work in Moscow — Noble-minded Russians — News- 
 paper exaggerations — Kindness from high and low — Misunder- 
 stood — Taken for a spy — Fast friends — Clouds clear away — " A 
 pleasure trip " — My outfit — Mounting the sledge — Off. 
 
 It is with devout thankfulness to Almighty God that, 
 after more than twelve months' travel, and almost 
 constant exposure to perils of many kinds during that 
 period, I am at length permitted to send forth this 
 book. I seek not sympathy for hardship and pain, 
 voluntarily undergone, or praise for any work partly 
 accomplished. It is my earnest desire that all sym- 
 pathy aroused may be directed to the suffering lepers, 
 
2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 and not to me, and all praise to Him who has 
 enabled a feeble woman to set her hand to a work 
 which was waiting to be done. Had I consulted 
 merely my own feelings these pages would have con- 
 tained only a simple record of the condition and wants 
 of the lepers, and what is now being attempted to alle- 
 viate their misery. But I knew the particulars of the 
 inconveniences, dangers, and exciting incidents, which 
 have been, as it were, the inseparable companions of my 
 travels, would add largely to the general interest of the 
 book, and would therefore increase its sale. Let every 
 purchaser remember that he is doing something, though 
 only a trifle, to help the least cared for members of the 
 human race. 
 
 I desire, also, to acknowledge my great indebtedness 
 to Her Imperial Majesty, the Empress of Russia, with- 
 out whose most prompt, valuable, and kind assistance it 
 would have been utterly impossible either to carry on or 
 to initiate this mission to the lepers of Siberia. Her 
 Majesty's letter instructed all government officials in the 
 places I proposed to visit to give me every possible as- 
 sistance. No royal lady could have entered with more 
 readiness and sympathy into the philanthropic proposals 
 submitted to Her Majesty. 
 
 The Empress confirmed the report which I had heard 
 both in Constantinople and Tiflis of the existence of a 
 herb which was said to alleviate the sufferings caused 
 by leprosy, and, in some cases, to remove the disease. 
 
A Remedial Herb. 
 
 I was also told that the herb was to be found in the far- 
 off Yakutsk province of Siberia, where there were many- 
 lepers ; but, being so jealously kept a secret by the na- 
 tives, no one who wished to make experiments with it 
 from mercenary motives could hope to obtain any infor- 
 mation. But would the natives disclose the secret to one 
 who wished only to benefit lepers throughout the Rus- 
 sian Empire, and wherever they existed in various parts 
 of the world ? Could they be persuaded to reveal all 
 they knew to a woman who came to them for the sake of 
 humanity, and on behalf of Christ ? Some doctors, so I 
 understood, had not cared to risk health and life, and 
 others had neither the time nor the money to spend 
 months and perhaps years in investigating the matter, 
 v'isiting the lepers in isolated regions, and testing the 
 properties of the herb in a systematic way. 
 
 My first acquaintance with the ravages of the fright- 
 ful disease arose during the Russo-Turkish War. 
 Since then, except during the period when I took 
 many backward steps and turned away from Christ — 
 a memory ever fraught with the keenest regret — the 
 main subject of my thoughts has been the wants of 
 the lepers and how to relieve them. The emotions 
 aroused by the sight of two poor, mutilated, and 
 helpless Bulgarians cannot be fully described. Be- 
 fore this time the conviction had taken hold upon me 
 that my mission in life was to minister to those who 
 received the smallest attention and care of all God's 
 
4 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 creatures. I had seen and heard of disease and suffer- 
 ing enough among the poor of my own country and 
 among the victims of war. But they were within 
 close reach, at "least, of abundant Christian and philan- 
 thropic efforts. But the lepers in the far-off, uncivilized 
 regions of the world — who cared for them ? What 
 medical attention did they receive ? What tender 
 ministration from the gentle hand of woman soothed 
 their sufferings? Cut off from their fellow-creatures, 
 avoided, despised, and doomed to a living death — surely 
 these, of all afflicted people, ought to become the object 
 of my mission. Debarred from intercourse with others, 
 except with those who suffered in a similar way, de- 
 prived of the comforts of civilization, left without proper 
 nourishment, and outcasts from the consolation of reli- 
 gion, the lepers seemed to me to demand, in a special and 
 unique manner, human aid. They were emphatically 
 Christ's lepers, since so few of Christ's servants, in pro- 
 portion to the needs of lepers, had as yet been able to 
 devote themselves to their relief. 
 
 " No remedy — no relief ! " A thousand times have 
 those mournful words racked my thoughts and pained 
 my heart. While science, philanthropy, and religion 
 were busily engaged in devising means for relieving 
 pain, curing disease, and consoling the sufferer, could 
 nothing be done for Christ's lepers ? Often and often 
 the wish was uppermost in my heart, Would to God 
 that the Healer and Saviour of men were among the 
 
Shoot Them / " 
 
 lepers of to-day, to give the loving command, " I will, 
 be thou clean." . 
 
 Before long I learned, with much satisfaction, that 
 in many parts of the world hospitals were erected, and 
 medical and nursing aid provided for the relief of 
 lepers. But I learned, at the same time, that in other 
 parts they were shamefully neglected, and abandoned 
 by the rest of the community in which they had dwelt. 
 With many conflicting testimonies before me I deter- 
 mined to see for myself the true state of matters, taking 
 no report at second-hand. 
 
 My desire to set out on this investigation was 
 intensified on hearing from some pessimistic and in- 
 human quarters that the best remedy for such an 
 ineurable and loathsome malady was — murder. " Shoot 
 them — poison them — anything to put them out of 
 their misery ! " My blood recoiled at such a 
 " method," as, indeed, would be the case with anyone 
 possessing the true love of humanity ; and I firmly 
 resolved to use every means in my power, with Divine 
 assistance, to discover a remedy, and, if such efforts 
 failed, to devise efficient methods for alleviating the 
 miseries which accompanied the disease, and for 
 bringing all lepers under the humane as well as the 
 religious influence of the servants of the Gospel of 
 Jesus Christ. 
 
 Before proceeding to Siberia to discover the herb, 
 and endeavor to bring its remedial qualities within the 
 
6 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 reach of all lepers throughout the world, I proposed 
 to visit the East, and acquaint myself with the condition 
 of the lepers in that quarter. 
 
 At Jerusalem, although many of the lepers receive 
 the best attention that medical skill and nursing aid 
 can contrive, I saw enough misery to strengthen my 
 resolution. At Constantinople the scene of horror 
 appalled me, and I longed, with a fervency that cannot 
 be described, for the swift help of Heaven and of men 
 in my mission of relief. I may be called an enthusiast, 
 or a woman who bids high for the world's applause. 
 I care not what I am called, or what I am thought 
 of, so long as the goal of my ambition be reached, 
 or so long as I may see before I die that the work 
 commenced, though faultily, is on its way to com- 
 pletion. 
 
 Traveling across the Black Sea and the Caucasus 
 from Constantinople, I arrived at Moscow in November, 
 1890. Anyone who has been traveling through a 
 strange country for two or three days and nights 
 without stopping, and ignorant of the language of the 
 natives, will easily understand my feelings of relief when 
 I was at last told that the next station was Moscow, 
 especially if my reader is tall, and has experienced that 
 awkward position of being cramped for a long time 
 in a railway carriage. 
 
 The train stopped ; and having collected my many 
 wraps, I got out, and at once confronted a true Mus- 
 
The Golden- Headed City." 
 
 covite winter, which my English clothing, notwith- 
 standing the above mentioned rugs, was ill-fitted to 
 face. Once in the sledge and on my way to the hotel, I 
 almost forgot the intense cold in my eagerness to notice 
 everything I passed. The number of churches especially 
 attracted me as I drove through the quaint narrow 
 streets, uphill and down. The sledge gliding along 
 noiselessly over the snow, and the horses not having 
 bells, the driver has to shout to warn the people to get 
 out of the way. In a thickly populated place like Mos- 
 cow, it needs a great amount of care to avoid being run 
 over, especially as most people have very high fur collars 
 which reach far above their ears, so that they are almost 
 deaf to everything. 
 
 'Moscow is rightly called the " golden-headed city," 
 owing to the number of golden domes ornamenting her 
 churches, though some are painted blue and others 
 green. Some of the domes, I was told, are covered 
 with thin sheets of real gold, the rest of the church 
 being painted white, picked out with lavender. All these 
 different colors present a very brilliant and beautiful 
 appearance, particularly when the sun shines upon them. 
 
 My first step was to go to the Governor, Prince Dol- 
 goroukow, who represents His Imperial Majesty the 
 Czar. The etiquette at such audiences is to appear in 
 full day dress. Happily, I had my nurse's uniform with 
 me, which suits all occasions. So I brushed it up, and, 
 with a clean pair of white strings to my somewhat worn 
 
8 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 bonnet, I concluded my toilette, and finally set out, not 
 without a feeling of nervousness, which unfortunately I 
 can seldom shake off. 
 
 Arriving at the palace, I was soon ushered into the 
 presence of the prince, who, by his kind manner and 
 gentle voice, at once banished every uncomfortable 
 feeling. " What can I do for you ? " he asked. Then I 
 told him about my mission, asking his permission to 
 visit the hospitals of the city, and any lepers to be 
 found in it. His kind face took a still kinder expres- 
 sion as he drew closer, and questioned me about my 
 proposed work, seeming rather bewildered that any 
 woman should attempt it. He then summoned the 
 Inspector of Hospitals, and gave orders to show me 
 every place I might wish to see. As I rose to depart 
 he presented me with his beautifully bound book on 
 Moscow, a gift which I then took as a great favor, but 
 now, since the kind prince has passed away, I treasure 
 as a loving remembrance of one who, though advanced 
 in age, readily exerted himself on behalf of the poor, 
 suffering lepers. 
 
 The next day I began to work in earnest, calling upon 
 everyone I could think of who might help in the work. 
 At first all went well ; but, before long, difficulties began 
 to crop up. Twice I went to St. Petersburg, a journey 
 which takes twelve hours. The kindness and assistance 
 so willingly bestowed by Her Imperial Majesty the 
 Empress, has been acknowledged ; but I have not yet 
 
Unjust Opinions of Russia. 
 
 mentioned that Her Imperial Majesty sent me a thou- 
 sand rubles (about $500) to help forward the mission. 
 The Countess Alexandrine Tolstoi, whose warm and 
 motherly reception I shall never forget, also did every- 
 thing in her power to further my plans. There were 
 many others, too, who seconded my efforts. 
 
 Let those who trust to exaggerated and unfavorable 
 newspaper reports, and are under the delusion that 
 little good can come out of Russia, bear in mind that 
 there are numbers of noble men and women in the 
 country always ready to stretch out the hand of fellow- 
 ship to anyone coming in the Master's name to help 
 his sick and suffering ones. Let such persons pause 
 before judging a whole nation by mere heresay accounts. 
 When we think of the enormous extent of the Russian 
 territory, of the different races inhabiting it, each having 
 a separate language, and some of them not knowing Rus- 
 sian at all — a fact which in itself is a serious obstacle 
 in the progress of civilization— then the strong opinions 
 formed concerning deficiencies, evils, and abuses must 
 be modified by a spirit of forbearance and justice. 
 During a personal experience of, altogether, two years I 
 have had many opportunities of studying the Russian 
 people, especially as I have mixed in almost all classes 
 of society ; and I most gladly state that, with but very 
 few exceptions, high and low have treated me with 
 never failing kindness and courtesy. Nay, more : some 
 of the highest have opened a loving mother's arms to 
 
io On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 me when in trouble ; and my rough soldier's tender 
 care all through my journey will be an ever grateful and 
 cherished memory. 
 
 My work in Moscow in arousing interest and collect- 
 ing funds was beset with difficulties. I fully stated 
 my plans — namely, to find the herb. But, in spite of 
 my plainness of speech (unfortunately, I could not 
 speak a word of the Russian tongue) my motives were 
 misconstrued, and all kinds of rumors were set afloat. 
 Because I stayed at an hotel some people became 
 suspicious, and looked at me askance. On arriving 
 in Moscow many of the English residents spontaneously 
 opened their doors to me, and seemed to take a great 
 interest in my work. But, one day, an article appeared 
 in a London journal containing a reference to me 
 and written by a well meaning but unwise friend ; 
 and then, laughable as it may seem, I was suspected 
 of being a political spy. It was no laughing matter, 
 however, to me, for friends began to keep aloof, and 
 I became uncomfortably conscious of being decidedly 
 under a cloud. It was not pleasant either to drive 
 about in a little open sledge in a temperature 
 about 2o° below zero (Fahrenheit), the wind and 
 snow driving full in one's face, with clothes (except 
 a shouba lent by a kind friend) only suitable for an 
 English climate. 
 
 Though certainly a little depressed, yet by no means 
 did I give way to despair. There was one never failing 
 
Steadfast Friends. 1 1 
 
 source of comfort and encouragement ; and, bowing 
 humbly and pleadingly at that Divine source, my heart 
 became recharged with hope, and the silver lining of the 
 cloud grew more distinct and real. Then, too, the few 
 English and the many Russian friends who remained 
 steadfast were, in truth, a rock of comfort when the days 
 were darkest. Some of these dear friends even sent 
 food to the hotel, and nursed me in illness ; but their 
 love of perfect privacy prevents me mentioning them by 
 name. Others, however, I am free to mention. Gen- 
 eral and Madame Costanda, Princess Gagarine, and my 
 unfailing friend and companion, Miss Ada Field, stood 
 by me unflinchingly. We all met and discussed matters 
 fully. We decided to go again to Prince Dolgoroukow 
 'to seek his help and advice. He offered to assist us in 
 every way, but, in a few days, fell ill ; and so our hopes 
 were again dashed to the ground. 
 
 But we were too ready to " fret," for we found that 
 the good prince, notwithstanding physical weakness, 
 was working among his friends. Madame Costanda 
 also worked hard among hers ; the Princess Gagarine 
 wrote a splendid article in the Moscow Gazette j the 
 German daily papers discussed the matter ; new and 
 unexpected English and Russian friends sprang up 
 in all directions. Although some could only give 
 their mite to the funds, all gave their sympathy and 
 prayers. So the cloud gradually broke up and drifted 
 away. 
 
1 2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Letters of introduction were obtained to influential 
 persons in Siberia, including one from the Bishop of 
 Ufa, whom I had visited at Ufa, and who had worked as 
 a missionary for forty years among the Yakuts. Stores 
 were brought, clothes made, and in a few weeks every- 
 thing was ready for this perilous, long, and unknown 
 journey. What am I saying — a perilous journey ? — 
 nay, some people said I was going to take a " pleasure 
 trip." So let it be. I plead guilty to the soft impeach- 
 ment on the one condition that all ladies who give this 
 seductive term to my journey will undertake to start 
 from the vicinity of Moscow on the ist of February 
 next year, and follow precisely the same route that the 
 writer took, travel by the same conveyances that 
 carried her, stop at the same places where she halted, 
 carry the same luggage that accompanied her, and, 
 above all, witness the same sights, and see the identical 
 people that crowd to her memory to-day. Happy 
 should I be could I offer " personal conductorship " ; 
 but this is impossible. I fear the lady tourists will be 
 unable to find me, being due in the hospitable regions 
 of Kamschatka somewhere about the date of their de- 
 parture from Moscow. 
 
 To assist the lady tourist, and, I hope, to interest the 
 reader, a few details of my stores and outfit shall here 
 be given. When we came to consider such matters 
 there was quite a titillation of excitement : and I really 
 believe that some of my younger friends felt almost 
 
Packing off the "Tourists" 13 
 
 as if they were preparing for a wedding. Even my 
 own attention, I must confess, was diverted from the 
 lepers for a moment in thinking what to wear, what pro- 
 visions to take, whether we should have a sound sledge, 
 and a sober and trustworthy driver, or whether we 
 should be called to experience the many tales told about 
 the tipsy driver, for ever sipping his dear vodka, and 
 having no qualms of conscience in landing the traveler 
 topsy-turvy some dark night in the depths of a forest, 
 or in the solemn stillness of a snow-drift. I am afraid, 
 however, that I frequently irritated my friends when, 
 in the midst of discussing things to wear and things 
 to eat, I went off at a tangent to speak of the far-off 
 lepers, and what they wanted. 
 
 "* Of course, it was quite natural for the gentlemen to 
 remark that, like most of my sex, I wanted to get at 
 the end of my journey before setting off. If there was 
 any amusing oasis in a desert of anxiety, from starting 
 from London in 1890 to returning thither in 1892, it 
 was surely the excitement created by these final pre- 
 parations for packing off the " tourists." As to food, 
 everybody was eager to suggest something that com- 
 bined keeping qualities with those of tastiness. Con- 
 sequently, tinned and potted meats and fish, and bottled 
 fruits, and so on, were mentioned in wondrous variety. 
 But, after all, it was decided that we need only take a 
 few boxes of sardines, biscuits, some bread, tea, and one 
 or two other trifles, which included forty pounds of plum 
 
14 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 pudding ! This delicious compound would certainly 
 "keep" in cold weather, as all housewives know ; and 
 I liked it, and so was persuaded to take it as the staple 
 article of the journey. A dear English lady friend 
 offered and provided it. We expected to find opportu- 
 nities in the villages (the Moscow side of Yakutsk, at 
 least) for replenishing our larder, so why bother about a 
 load of eatables ? 
 
 Then there were other necessary articles to be stowed 
 away. Somebody said that those little oil-wicks, used 
 instead of night-lights, were not to be had for love or 
 money in Siberia ; so I got two dozen boxes, and then 
 was calmly told that I had enough to last for ten years. 
 Another English friend gave me forty pounds of candles ; 
 but, by and by, as I may as well mention here, on 
 coming to unpack the stores, I found that only four 
 pounds had been allowed to remain intact. About the 
 clothing — well, that was a decided burden in more ways 
 than one. I had a whole outfit of Jaeger garments, 
 which I prized more and more as the months went on ; 
 then a loose kind of body, lined with flannel, a very 
 thickly wadded eider-down ulster, with sleeves long 
 enough to cover the hands entirely, the fur collar reach- 
 ing high enough to cover the head and face. Then a 
 sheep-skin reaching to the feet, and furnished with a 
 collar which came over the fur one. Then over the 
 sheep-skin I had to wear a ducha, which is a fur coat of 
 reindeer skin. It was not surprising that, when thus 
 
Outfit. 15 
 
 accoutered, broadened, and lengthened by a great many- 
 inches, I failed to recognize K. M. in the looking-glass 
 which a laughing girl held up before me. 
 
 But I have not yet finished ; some other articles have 
 still to be described. A long thick pair of Jaegar 
 stockings made of long hair ; over them a pair of gentle- 
 men's thickest hunting stockings ; over them a pair of 
 Russian boots made of felt, coming high up over the 
 knee ; and over them a pair of brown felt valenkies. 
 Then I was provided with a large fur bag or sack into 
 which I could step ; my head-covering was a fur-lined 
 cap, and the et-ceteras consisted of shawls, rugs, and 
 wraps. All this immense load of wool, and fur, and 
 skins to cover a bit of frail and feeble humanity ! Yet 
 "there was not an ounce too much, as after experience 
 proved. 
 
 We went by train to Zlatoust (a few hundred miles 
 from Moscow), whence we were to start in the sledge, 
 and commence my memorable journey through Siberia. 
 
 At Zlatoust the head of the police met us in full 
 state, with about twenty policemen ; the colonel of the 
 mounted police was also present, as well as the station- 
 master, and a crowd of villagers. It was, I need scarcely 
 say, the letter of the Empress that caused all this 
 attention and deference. The honor accorded was, of 
 course, to Her Majesty, and not to me. The difficulties 
 of mounting the sledge, in my loaded and hampered 
 condition, I had not contemplated ; but now, on seeing 
 
1 6 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 the conveyance at the door my heart sank, and I longed 
 for some good fairy to waft me gently from the station 
 into the corner of the sledge. But it was of no use to 
 give way to heart-sinking, or to long for impossibilities. 
 
 The sledge — one of the elevated kind, standing a long 
 way from the ground — had to be mounted. The feat 
 must be accomplished somehow. How I managed to 
 walk, or totter, down the steps of the station without an 
 •accident is a marvel. Having got over that portion of 
 the feat, I stood at the side of the sledge trying to solve 
 the knotty problem of how to get in. There was no 
 step to help me ; and there was the crowd of men, 
 women, and children gazing at me. What was I to do ? 
 I tried to take in the humor of the situation, which 
 was probably the wisest thing to do under the circum- 
 stances. Three muscular policemen attempted to lift 
 me gently into the sledge ; but their combined strength 
 was futile under the load. So they had to set me on the 
 ground again. Then I attempted, in a kind of majestic, 
 contemptuous way to mount, without assistance ; but, 
 alas ! my knees would not bend. My pride had to 
 succumb ; I was helpless. Two policemen came and 
 essayed another maneuver. They took me by the arms 
 and then, at their signal, I made one desperate, frantic 
 effort, and I was in. 
 
 But " what a falling off," to be sure ! For one who 
 was known to have come with a letter from the 
 Empress — the importance of which can only be truly 
 
Stowed Away at Last. 1 7 
 
 fathomed by a Russian — to be quizzed and stared 
 at by the crowd while engaged in these undignified 
 operations ! But all was not yet over. I was in, 
 but I had to be packed and stowed away. The men 
 pushed, and pulled, and dragged, and coaxed ; and, at 
 last, I and my clothes were considered ready for start- 
 ing. As to bowing and thanking my assistants, that 
 was impossible ; I just sat, and fairly gasped, and 
 longed to get away. My friend Miss Field underwent 
 an ordeal somewhat similar to that which I had endured ; 
 the driver and the soldier took their seats ; and then 
 we were off. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 FIRST EXPERIENCES ON THE ROAD. 
 
 The pleasures of sledging along a broken-up road — Wolves — A 
 cheap "hotel" — Frozen lakes — "Survival of the fittest" — 
 Village dwellings — Patient cows — A chivalrous soldier — 
 Ekaterinberg Prison — Irbit Fair — A chaotic sledge-ride — 
 "Pirate" drivers — A feather bed at last — Tjumen Hospital — 
 A reading and writing potentate — Roses in Siberia — A model 
 farm — A polluted river, and what the people thought of it — 
 The peasants' love for the Empress — A petition to the 
 Empress — Farewell to English hospitality. 
 
 Our experience of sledging along a road terribly broken 
 up, owing to the immense traffic and almost endless 
 string of sledges, carrying heavy loads of goods to the 
 annual Siberian fair, held in February, will be repeated 
 in your case, dear reader, if you ever undertake a similar 
 journey to Siberia at a corresponding period. Bump, jolt, 
 bump, jolt — over huge frozen lumps of snow and into 
 holes, and up and down those dreadful waves and fur- 
 rows, made by the traffic — such is the stimulating motion 
 you will have to submit to for a few thousand miles. 
 Your head seems to belong to every part of the sledge : 
 it is first bumped against the top ; then the conveyance 
 gives a lurch, and you get an unexpected knock against 
 the side ; then you cross one of the ruts, and, first, you 
 
Bumping ', Jolting, Tossing. 19 
 
 are thrown violently forward against the driver, and, 
 second, you just as quickly rebound. This sort of motion 
 is all very well for a few miles ; but after a time it gets 
 too monotonously trying. You ache from head to foot ; 
 you are bruised all over ; your poor brain throbs until 
 you give way to a kind of hysterical outcry ; your 
 headgear gets displaced ; your temper, naturally, 
 becomes slightly ruffled, and you are ready to gasp 
 from so frequently clutching at the sides to save your- 
 self. 
 
 Added to all this is the constant yelling of the driver, 
 who thinks it one of the paramount duties of his calling 
 to make a noise above the ringing of the sledge bells. 
 So you go on merrily, the horses dashing along like the 
 steeds in a fire engine, or like the hot-blooded beauties 
 of Phaethon. The yelling of your Jehu increases in 
 volume when you tear through villages, alarming poor 
 folk, who clear off, helter-skelter, pell-mell, with knitted 
 brows and muttered observations. All the dogs, roused 
 from their peaceful pursuits, surround you, forming a 
 lively escort, barking, growling, fighting, and jumping 
 snappishly at the horses' heads. Night comes on apace, 
 to soften your feelings with a lowered temperature and 
 the pleasing suggestions that darkness brings. Still 
 on you merrily go — but, oh, for five minutes' peace ! 
 Bumping, jolting, tossing ; heaved, pitched, and thumped. 
 Bright memories of asphalt, blockwood, and penny 
 •omnibuses spring up to diversify your thoughts. Little 
 
2o On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 gleams of light which you pass on your way seem to 
 come from tiny hut windows in the forest. 
 
 " Driver " (Yemstchick), shouts your companion 
 " can't we stop a minute at one of those huts ? " 
 
 " Eh, what, madam ? " (Tchevo Barienya ?) 
 
 " Those huts where the lights are — can't we rest 
 there ? " 
 
 "Lights? They're wolves" (Eto seriae poshli). 
 
 " Oh ! " 
 
 You know you can't go faster, or you would certainly 
 urge the driver to quicken the pace. Warily you try 
 to peep round to see if those little gleaming eyes are 
 close at the rear. And now your Jehu makes a mighty 
 spurt. Slash, slash, goes the whip ; thud, thud, go the 
 reins on the horses' flanks. " Little doves ; little sisters," 
 are the coaxing epithets the man addresses to the tired 
 creatures, mixed with his wild yells. You have a vague 
 idea that the appointed place for halting cannot be far 
 distant. Jehu begins to want his vodka ; you long for 
 the sight of the singing samovar,* and a nice, snug, 
 warm room, with feather bed, well aired sheets, and, 
 perhaps, a warming pan ; and the horses seem to sniff 
 their supper from afar, so on they wildly go, snorting 
 and foaming, until, at last, at the post-station you pull 
 up sharp. 
 
 You are then, in a semi-comatose state, dragged from 
 
 * The samovar is a kind of urn, with charcoal underneath for 
 heating the water. 
 
Your "Hotel!" 21 
 
 the sledge ; and, on gaining a footing, you feel more 
 like a battered old log of mahogany than a gently 
 nurtured Englishwoman. 
 
 And now, dear reader, let me introduce you to your 
 somewhat primitive ''hotel"; but have patience. The 
 key must first of all be found, and then candles and 
 matches. Have your pocket-handkerchief ready, if you 
 can find it, and place it close to your nostrils the 
 moment the door is opened. The hinges creak ; and 
 your first greeting is a gust of hot, fetid air, which 
 almost sends you back ; but you remember the cold 
 outside and the cravings of hunger, and so you go 
 in. 
 
 The menu is regulated entirely according to your own 
 tastes ; in fact, it consists chiefly of the viands which 
 you have brought with you, and which do not happen to 
 have bounced out of the sledge, or which you haven't 
 flung to the wolves on your way. You will be badly off 
 indeed if you cannot contrive to have a few dry biscuits 
 and a glass of tea. There are no waiters to bother 
 you at this hotel, and no fees of any kind ; and that 
 should relieve your mind. 
 
 The sheep-skin and rugs (none of the cleanest) are 
 then laid in the middle of the floor. That is your bed ; 
 but don't suppose you will have sole possession of it. 
 One glance around the walls at the number of moving 
 specks upon them of different sizes and families will at 
 once dispel that illusion, while the probable arrival of 
 
22 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 another tardy traveler will deprive you of even the com- 
 fort of a room to yourself. 
 
 The heat of these premises is grateful and comforting 
 at first ; but, some hours before dawn, you long for the 
 intense cold outside, and you register a vow that never 
 as long as you live will you enter such a stifling hole 
 again. But, alas for human constancy ! the very next 
 night, or perhaps for many nights, you will eagerly seek 
 the shelter of one of these warm structures, and sleep 
 soundly, until awakened by a sensation of approaching 
 suffocation. 
 
 What is known as the short cut ftom Zlatoust to 
 Ekaterinberg a good deal resembles an Irishman's mile. 
 On being asked how long his mile was the Irishman re- 
 plied, '» For sure, 'tis a mile and a half, your honor ; but 
 maybe 'tis longer if ye wish it." 
 
 The dense forests on the road look grand and stately, 
 but sometimes our admiration of their sturdy growth 
 received a sudden check by the appearance of a wolf. 
 One brown specimen looked round and faced us, as if 
 he meant to fight ; but, on second thoughts, he turned 
 tail and slowly ambled off. Then we saw a black one 
 crouching at the foot of a tree ; but he, too, made no 
 attempt to molest us. 
 
 Sometimes we came to a large lake, which we had to 
 glide over, meeting, now and then, a few men, who had 
 cut holes in the lake, and were lying on the ice, fishing. 
 Russian peasants sit and recline on blocks of ice as if 
 
Primitive Dwellings. 23 
 
 they were feather beds ; and little children, with one 
 skirt round their bodies, and a handkerchief on their 
 heads, but with no fur of any kind, run about when 
 there are 20 of frost (Reaumur), and sit placidly on 
 heaps of snow. The cold of Russia has one decided ef- 
 fect : it finds out the weakest young people, and kills 
 them off before they reach manhood or womanhood ; so 
 that weak and delicate men and women are seldom met 
 with, at least in country districts. 
 
 We passed several dirty villages, having broad streets, 
 and on either side wooden houses, made of the trunks of 
 trees, plastered round thickly with stable refuse. Al- 
 though this simple method has the advantage of shut- 
 ting out the wind and frost, it also shuts in all the foul 
 smells. It is a marvel how these villagers can contrive 
 to exist and bring up families in such unwholesome 
 dwellings. As to the cows, from which the people de- 
 rive their chief nourishment, they are as quiet and as 
 patient as the peasants themselves. They always seem 
 to be in one's way when passing through a village, and 
 endure, with the utmost equanimity, a sudden collision 
 with the sledge, or the sharp crack of the driver's 
 whip. 
 
 On arriving at Ekaterinberg, we found accommodation 
 at the excellent American hotel, the best hotel that I 
 came across on this journey. The servants here are a 
 model to their race, for they do not swarm around for 
 fees on the traveler's departure. 
 
24 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 The head of the police, Baron Taube, is a perfect 
 specimen of a fine Russian, full of energy and spirit, 
 with the most delicate appreciation of the courtesy due 
 to ladies, especially those who are put under his care- 
 He gave me a soldier, named Popoff, who proved a 
 worthy representative of his master. When we came 
 to post-houses it was often a problem with me, weighted 
 and hampered as I was with so many clothes and wraps, 
 how to scramble out of the sledge without assistance ; 
 but this man stretched out his hands, and I just tumbled 
 into them, furs and all. He took my arm, led me up 
 the rickety steps, removed my furs and high boots, and 
 then stood still, with a look on his serious face that 
 plainly meant, " What more can I do?" Sometimes he 
 stood and saluted, saying, "Slushayous" (I am obeying 
 your orders). His delicate attention and anxiety to 
 serve me would have touched any woman. After taking 
 his meals, consisting generally of black bread and 
 scraps, he always came into my room saying, " I humbly 
 thank you." Yes, I do love those enduring, hard-work- 
 ing, splendid Russian soldiers ; I would trust that one 
 with my life any day. 
 
 The prison at Ekaterinberg is not one of the best of 
 its kind. It appeared to me badly lighted, badly venti- 
 lated, and badly kept. This was my first prison experi- 
 ence ; and a shiver went through my heart when, on en- 
 tering the prison, the grating noise of bolts and locks 
 told of the many poor fellows doomed to be shut in from 
 
Ekaterinberg Prison. 25 
 
 the world. Soldiers stood with their guns and bayonets 
 ready to quell an outbreak. The rattling of the 
 prisoners' chains, which extend from waist to ankles, 
 is a sound one never forgets. In the yard were several 
 prisoners, with the snow piled up around them, and 
 wearing clothes too scanty to keep them warm, even on 
 an autumn day in England. The frightened look on 
 some, the despairing look on others, and the scowl on 
 the faces of a few produced a train of thought calling 
 up in imagination varied pictures in the past lives of 
 these men. 
 
 The room where the prisoners took their meals was 
 dirty and badly ventilated. The food was contained in 
 a large wooden bowl placed on the table ; each man 
 had a spoon, which he dipped into the bowl and passed 
 to his mouth. The unwholesome condition of the 
 room, the soup spilt on the table, and those dirty 
 wooden ladles made me wonder whether any prison in 
 my own country could show such a scene. The head 
 warder informed me that, although the prison was built 
 to hold only a specified number of prisoners, yet, in 
 the summer, it often contained two or three times as 
 many. 
 
 While in Ekaterinberg we came across some Eng- 
 lish friends, Messrs. Yates and Wardroper, and the 
 agent of the British and Foreign Bible Society. It was 
 these gentlemen, for whose kind help I am much 
 indebted, who suggested that we should go to the Irbit 
 
26 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Fair. They believed that a merchant from Yakutsk 
 would be there, who would give me valuable information 
 about the lepers. This fair is held annually during 
 February. Merchants come from all parts of the 
 empire, bringing with them all kinds of commodities. 
 For the number of nationalities represented, for the 
 babel of tongues, and the vast heterogeneous assortment 
 of goods displayed, this assemblage is probably without 
 a match in the world. The fair is opened by the priests 
 with a religious ceremony, and is the only thing that 
 keeps Irbit alive ; for the rest of the year it is almost a 
 deserted and forgotten place. 
 
 We made the journey to Irbit, of one hundred miles, 
 by sledge, and found accommodation in a room which 
 contained a bedstead but no bedding, two crazy chairs, 
 one dilapidated table, and the usual unwelcome occu- 
 pants. The merchant from Yakutsk was discovered, 
 and, when told of the mission to his district by a woman, 
 positively refused to believe the statement, in view of 
 the almost insurmountable difficulties it entailed. He 
 was quietly told that the woman in question had "laid 
 help upon One that was mighty," and was not relying 
 upon herself outside of God. When, however, his 
 doubts were removed, he devoutly made the sign of the 
 cross, saying that he would pray for a blessing to rest 
 on the work and the worker. He told me all he knew 
 about the lepers, but had no information to give about 
 the herb. 
 
An Awful Hundred Miles. 27 
 
 It was here that, by the advice and with the assistance 
 of the English friends already mentioned, I bought a 
 sledge, as it was cheaper to travel in one of my own than 
 having a fresh one at every stage. 
 
 The ride from libit to Tjumen was, I think, the 
 worst bit of sledging I ever experienced. Some of the 
 holes that we had to get through, or over, were positively 
 dreadful. The driver actually had to pull up now and 
 then and dismount, in order to see how deep the next 
 hole was. We expected almost every minute that horses 
 and driver, soldier, ladies and all, would be mixed 
 up in dire, chaotic confusion. That hundred miles 
 of shaking and bumping down holes and up holes, and 
 over huge lumps of snow that looked like the remains 
 of ancient buildings, so wearied and dazed us that, I 
 believe, on arriving at Tjumen we were more dead than 
 alive. 
 
 But we were to have other experiences along this 
 portion of the journey. An incident occurred which 
 threatened to put us in a very awkward predicament. 
 The driver, quite a young man, happened to be what is 
 called a " free " driver, in distinction from government 
 drivers. Being a free driver, he had some of the rights 
 and privileges which the drivers of " pirate " omnibuses 
 so provokingly assume. These drivers were not bound 
 to take the government road ; they went by any route 
 or track they chose, provided the " fares " did not 
 forcibly prevent them. It was our wish to call at a 
 
2 8 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 certain village, where we knew a tolerably good lodg- 
 ing for the night could be obtained. Our man at first 
 mildly protested. When we became aware, by jolting 
 over by-roads and no roads at all, that he was following 
 his own inclination, we expostulated. Then he flatly 
 refused to follow our wishes, and said he was going to 
 another village, which, according to the soldier, was 
 fully eight miles out of the way. 
 
 ° I shan't charge you anything extra," said he, with 
 brazen-faced impudence. 
 
 "But we don't want you to make us a present of the 
 eight miles. We insist on going where you are ordered 
 to take us." 
 
 The fellow then became more obdurate, notwithstand- 
 ing the soldier threatening all sorts of terrible things. 
 At last, throwing the reins on the horses' backs, he 
 dismounted, and came to the side of the sledge. Re- 
 member, please, it was night, with a waste, howling- 
 wilderness of snow all round, and no human habitation 
 within many miles. 
 
 " Look here," said he, " this is your sledge, and those 
 are my horses ; if you don't want to go where I am 
 driving you to, I can just take out the horses and go 
 home." 
 
 Here was a prospect for two benighted women — to 
 find our way on foot into the government road again, 
 tramping through unknown depths of snow, and then 
 walk on to the nearest post-station, or else remain in the 
 
A " Pirate " Driver s Repentance. 29 
 
 sledge all night by ourselves, while the soldier went off 
 for horses. The soldier, after another long, angry exhor- 
 tation, said something or other that seemed to bring the 
 man to his senses, for he remounted, shook the reins, 
 and dashed off in the direction we had ordered him to 
 take. On arriving at the village the soldier wanted to 
 report the fellow for his misconduct. Then carrie re- 
 pentance. The " pirate " dropped on his knees, groveled 
 on the ground, and begged and implored us to forgive 
 him. Then it came out that he was only obeying his 
 master's orders, and that these free drivers have a 
 knavish way of taking the traveler by circuitous 
 routes, and charging for the extra distance. We let 
 the youth off, but vowed we would shun the pirates 
 forever after. 
 
 A pleasant surprise awaited us at Tjumen. Any 
 ladies undergoing so many hours of torture between 
 Irbit and Tjumen will derive some consolation from 
 the fact that a hearty English welcome is in store. Mr. 
 and Mrs. Wardroper received us at their house as if we 
 had been their own children. We sat down, travel 
 stained, bruised, and ill, to a hot supper, and were after- 
 ward sent off for a night's rest. We tumbled on to 
 the soft and dainty bed just as we were, and soon fell 
 asleep. On awaking a little, reflection was necessary 
 before being able to realize our surroundings. What 
 had become of the sheep-skin, the dirty floor, the fetid 
 air, the vermin, and the rest ? Ah ! indeed, Mr. Ward- 
 
3© On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 roper's house was a little heaven, compared to the places 
 where we had usually passed the nights. 
 
 Tjumen is an old town, with long, broad streets and 
 several churches, generally painted white, with green 
 domes, giving them a bright and fresh appearance. The 
 hospital, I am sorry to say, is the worst I have ever 
 seen. But then, of course, after my experience of clean, 
 bright English hospitals I am of necessity a severe 
 critic. Want of cleanliness, ventilation, and good man- 
 agement were everywhere apparent, and but few pre- 
 cautions were* taken to isolate infectious from other 
 cases. 
 
 I accepted an invitation to visit a splendid estate 
 about forty miles from Tjumen. The roads on a portion 
 of the journey were so narrow that the horses had to run 
 " geese fashion" — two behind and one in front — and 
 sometimes tandem fashion. The sun shone full into 
 our faces, and the glaring light, combined with the 
 dazzling snow, had a strange effect. On closing our 
 eyes we saw black snow with bright, dazzling silver stars 
 dotted all over. 
 
 In a room in one of the villages where we halted, 
 there were many pots of flowers, and large Chinese 
 roses, which at home would only grow in greenhouses, 
 and yet here, in this terribly cold country, the rooms are 
 kept so hot that in the better class of dwellings all kinds 
 of flowers may be found. We were received at the 
 estate with lavish hospitality by its owner, and were 
 
Education. 3 r 
 
 surprised to find at such an outlandish place every kind 
 of European appliance for farming, cheese, and butter 
 making. Being an English woman, I was naturally 
 pleased to see tempting butter once more, that had not 
 been fingered and mauled about by dirty peasants. 
 The cows were in splendid condition, though not of 
 good breed. Their singular appearance almost gave me 
 the idea of a shaggy Shetland pony and an English cow 
 rolled into one. If an English farmer wants to win a 
 prize at the Agricultural Show for extraordinary 
 " points," all he has to do is to order one of these 
 strange creatures. 
 
 Here but little interest is felt in the education of the 
 people. It is a common thing to find but one man 
 among two or three neighboring villages who can read 
 and write ; and this man is quite a little potentate. If 
 the governor of the province wants private informa- 
 tion about any of the inhabitants he sends to him, 
 who, if unjust, has a capital opportunity for paying 
 off old scores, and getting his enemy dispatched to 
 prison. 
 
 In the village next to the estate I was visiting a 
 school had just been built by the kind help of my hosts, 
 who begged me to go and see it. In the midst of hear- 
 ing the children read, an old man suddenly appeared on 
 the scene, and begged to be allowed to speak to me. 
 Seeing the red cross on the sledge he thought I must 
 be someone of consequence, and, therefore, came to 
 
32 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 implore me to do the villagers a service. He said the 
 river was polluted by the refuse of a paper mill ten 
 miles away, and that the whole village was thereby 
 being ruined. 
 
 I went off to the river, tasted and smelt the water, 
 and found it was not fit for either man or beast. 
 On returning to the village a striking and unexpected 
 scene awaited me. The people cried and implored 
 me to help them, bowed down and pleaded, as I never 
 knew people could plead, saying that the cattle refused 
 to drink the water, that men, women, and children 
 were ill from it, and that they had to walk four and six 
 miles to the nearest village for every drop of water, 
 unless they used melted snow, for men and cattle. 
 They dreaded the summer, because that would mean 
 death to them. The old men, with their heads bowed, 
 the young ones, forgetting their village bashfulness in 
 their excitement, appealing with their earnest faces, and 
 the women uttering a piteous lament — all tried to make 
 me fully understand by words and signs the vital 
 importance of the matter. Some of the families had 
 been 300 years in the village, and to remove to another 
 place meant ruin and desolation to many. I wonder 
 what English peasants would have done under similar 
 circumstances, and with no one to help them. No, 
 I don't wonder ; I know what they would do first. 
 The offending paper mill would not have the chance 
 of poisoning the water for another day. But here 
 
Portrait of the Empress. $$ 
 
 were some 300 people, apparently being ruined and 
 starved by the despotic selfishness of one man, and 
 they were all as powerless to help themselves as any 
 baby. 
 
 I certainly had not come into Siberia to look after 
 polluted rivers ; but how could I refuse to listen to the 
 touching appeal ? I told them that I was going on to 
 Tobolsk, where I would see the governor, and would 
 plead with him on their behalf ; and, should this prove 
 insufficient, the case would be laid before a higher au- 
 thority. I begged of them to make of this a special sub- 
 ject of prayer, as I was only a very helpless tool in the 
 matter, and could do nothing unless God chose to use 
 me for this purpose. They listened reverently, then 
 bowed low, and said they would pray every day with 
 all their hearts. My friend then asked me to show them 
 a photograph of the Empress, which Her Majesty had 
 so graciously given me, with her own signature ; and 
 to see them crowding round, peering shyly at the picture, 
 some with open mouths, others in a reverent attitude, 
 with uncovered heads, many with half-starved, weary 
 faces, was a scene which would at least have pleased 
 artistic eyes, and touched tender hearts at the Royal 
 Academy. When I got into the sledge, all the people 
 came bare-headed to shake hands, led by the father, or 
 oldest man of the village. As I drove off, tears ran 
 down their poor, worn cheeks ; and as they said " God 
 bless you ! " a pang of pain shot through my heart, and 
 
34 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 I prayed that our Lord would indeed enable me to help 
 them. 
 
 Then we drove on to the paper mill, about seven miles 
 away. The cold was intense, with a strong wind. The 
 horses were quickly covered with frost ; icicles hung 
 from their nostrils and mouths ; the driver's whiskers 
 were soon frozen, and icicles hung from his mustache, 
 and also from my friend's veil. It was a long and tiring 
 drive, but those weary faces urged me on. At the mill 
 I found that the statement of the villagers was only too 
 true, for the chemicals used for washing filthy rags were 
 thrown into the river. The horses tore along on our re- 
 turn, much to our delight, as by this time our faces fairly 
 ached with the cold. A warm welcome, plenty of food, 
 and the beloved samovar did wonders, and we were 
 soon in a comfortable bed. 
 
 Early in the morning, a deputation arrived from the 
 two villages we had visited the day before with a peti- 
 tion for me to present, fully describing their position. 
 We hurried back to Tjumen, to start for Tobolsk, in 
 order to catch the Governor of Tobolsk before he left, 
 and to speak to him about the polluted river, and the 
 condition of these poor people. The prison at Tjumen, 
 with all its wretchedness, is vividly impressed on my 
 memory. Indeed, wherever one went on this journey 
 there was always something to harass the feelings and 
 rack the nerves, while the greatness of the difficulties 
 was enough to paralyze one's energies. It is not won- 
 
Farewell to English Hospitality. 35 
 
 derful that in such unwieldy dominions as these the 
 doctrine of laissez faire opens so tempting a vista to 
 worried and overworked officials. 
 
 We packed up and went off. Mrs. Wardroper came 
 in her own sledge as far as the river to say good-by ; 
 and as she stood there, wishing us God-speed, I won- 
 dered whether I should ever see another English face in 
 this vast wild Siberia. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 MOSTLY MISHAPS. 
 
 Minor inconveniences — A specimen of " Young Siberia " — Russian 
 harness — Shoeing horses — An accident — A smash — We are shot 
 on to a river — Another accident — Those horses ! — About post- 
 stations and villagers — Tobolsk — Asking for the Word of Life — 
 Safe at Tukalinsk — A levde — Visits to Tukalinsk prison — A pitia- 
 ble sight — Convicts traveling in winter — A petition to " Her 
 Highness " — Visit to a vagabond house. 
 
 The horses dashed off full gallop, rushing through 
 freshly formed snow-drifts. The snow soon found its 
 way into every corner of the sledge, which, although 
 covered at the top, was quite open in front. Then the 
 snOw had a way of settling down the collars of our 
 coats, and, when melted by the heat of the body, trick- 
 ling down the neck ; and sometimes it flew up the 
 sleeves unless we were careful to keep them closed at 
 the wrists. Our good substantial boxes were all stowed 
 away in the " hold "; over them was a layer of straw, 
 and on the straw we sat, or rather, reclined, with 
 pillows at our backs. The word " reclined " suggests 
 ease and comfort ; but, when applied to sledge-travel- 
 ing, under the circumstances that we traveled, it 
 means " Hobson's choice." You are compelled to put 
 
 36 X 
 
Young Siberia" 37 
 
 yourself, or get put, into that position ; and in that 
 position you must remain. The compulsory nature of 
 this reclining is apt to become rather trying to one of an 
 independent spirit, especially when that one has to sub- 
 mit to the inevitable for several hours together, and 
 with no possibility of getting a firm hold for the feet. 
 Some people fancy a sledge, in the way of the comfort 
 and ease which it offers, is like a nice roomy bath chair. 
 Well, I won't argue the question ; but I wish such people 
 could have seen us on this identical journey I am now 
 speaking of. 
 
 For six hours all went well, with the normal amount 
 of bumping and jolting. We had, this time, another 
 youthful driver, a rare specimen of " Young Siberia." 
 As darkness fell it appeared to us that he was getting 
 a little reckless ; but we said nothing, attributing his 
 daring exploits to vodka, or to the bitter cold, or to the 
 faulty way of harnessing the horses. Anyhow, as mid- 
 night approached it must be confessed that we became 
 slightly nervous and irritable, having our recent noc- 
 turnal adventure vividly before our minds. We had a 
 strong presentiment that something was going to hap- 
 pen. The harness, I must mention, is often responsible 
 for accidents in sledge traveling. One peculiarity 
 among Siberians is the obliviousness of the fact that 
 nature makes horses of various sizes ; for the harness is 
 all of one regulation size. So you may see a horse ten 
 hands high with harness fit for one of fifteen hands, 
 
3 8 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 and vice versa. The effect is often ludicrous, and some- 
 times painful to lovers of animals. People endowed 
 with imagination would probably liken the small horses, 
 with their large harness, to a nationality with a super- 
 abundance of freedom, and the large horses, firmly fixed 
 in a vise, as it were, to a nationality doomed to be con- 
 scious every moment of their lives that they are hemmed 
 in by hard, inflexible laws. Anyway, these large 
 creatures feel at all times the " reins " of government. 
 
 And while I am talking about horses let me just 
 try to describe a little scene I witnessed. A struggling 
 horse, and two energetic men ; the horse plunging and 
 kicking ; the animal is being lifted into the air by two 
 bands round the stomach ; one of the men holds several 
 yards of rope. Look carefully and you will infer that 
 the man is watching for an opportunity of coiling that 
 rope round the leg of the animal. Now his point is 
 gained ; he has the leg in safe custody, and then hauls 
 it any way he wishes, somewhat regardless of the 
 direction nature intended that leg to move. He now 
 hunts for instruments ; surely, this is a case of horse- 
 slaughter. Then comes a huge hammer. What is the 
 fellow going to do ? Why, he is only going to re-shoe 
 the animal, to be sure ! 
 
 And now to return to our midnight traveling. I 
 was thinking of the two outer horses, and speculating 
 how long this wonderfully made harness could last, and 
 how soon the horses' legs would get entangled in the 
 
A Dead- lock. 39 
 
 odds and ends of ropes which were supposed to help in 
 keeping the horses together, when suddenly the second 
 horse disappeared ! The driver gave a lurch forward ; 
 the off-horse struggled ; there was a bump and a thump 
 against the sledge, and then the other horse also 
 disappeared, and we came to a dead-lock. We were 
 both wide awake in no time, and we heard and felt an 
 ominous knocking against the side ; and on looking out 
 we found both horses entangled in the ropes and on the 
 ground, struggling frantically to get up. 
 
 The driver called, " Nichivo " (It is nothing). But no 
 amount of " nichivoeing" prevented my feeling uneasy. 
 The soldier by this time had jumped off the box, and 
 there he stood abusing the horses, the driver, and the 
 road ; then, finding that this failed to help matters 
 much, he began to spit at the horses. Then driver and 
 soldier stood still, looking helplessly on, not attempting 
 to do anything. I got my friend to translate a rather 
 peremptory order to both men ; and this woke them up 
 to the fact that they must be doing something besides 
 abusing each other. By this time the poor horses were 
 getting tired of being jammed against the sledge and 
 tied up by the ropes, for their struggles became more 
 decided. The soldier quickly stood on one horse's 
 neck, and the driver set the harness free. The other 
 animal was treated in the same way ; but the driver 
 was evidently too angry with it to drive it any more ; 
 and so he just let it loose, and away it trotted, looking 
 
40 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 such an odd creature in the half snowlight, with the 
 harness dragging all around it. The oddity of the scene 
 made us enjoy a hearty laugh, notwithstanding the 
 discomfort of the occasion. After a little more hard 
 tugging and painful compulsion the three remaining 
 horses were put, or rather tied, together, and away we 
 started again. 
 
 But, somehow, our nerves were on the qui vive of 
 expectancy, and sleep quite forsook our eyelids. 
 Something else was going to happen ; of that we felt 
 positive. Suddenly we heard a loud shouting, and, 
 after a few minutes' speculation, we guessed that one of 
 those continuous freight sledges, carrying goods to long 
 distances, stood in our way. Our men shouted, but all 
 to no purpose. We were going at a great speed, and 
 of course expected a tremendous smash. In a few 
 moments we were well on to the obstruction. A little 
 horse, belonging to the other people, got terrified ; it 
 crossed our path, and we were sent flying into a deep 
 ditch full of snow. It all happened like a flash of 
 lightning. There in the ditch our horses stuck ; not 
 an inch would they budge, in spite of lashing, and 
 tugging, and yelling. Like master, like horse. When 
 you get into a difficulty wait until somebody gets you 
 out of it. There we were in a ditch at about one 
 o'clock in the morning. We wanted to get out, but the 
 soldier shouted, " Stay where you are, ladies." How- 
 ever, we thought differently, and managed to scramble 
 
Landed in a Snow-drift. 41 
 
 out, stepping into a snow-drift up to our knees ; and we 
 stood shivering, like two forlorn, lost creatures, waiting 
 to be rescued. The men who had caused our trouble 
 went straight on without inquiring what had happened 
 — a custom not confined to this part of the world. I 
 stood in front of my friend, who was smaller than I, 
 trying to shelter her from the bitter wind. While the 
 men flogged the horses and shouted at them we looked 
 on, wishing to help them in their task, but quite unable 
 to do so, clad in our cumbersome clothing. Then the 
 driver left us, and ran off to try and find the horse that 
 had deserted us. He was gone for half an hour, but his 
 quest was all in vain, for the sagacious animal had 
 wandered far away. Those blows that fell on the 
 horses' backs went to our hearts ; but it was utterly use- 
 less for us to interfere. Everything has an ending ; and, 
 at last, by one mighty effort, horses and sledge were got 
 out of the ditch. We packed ourselves away into the 
 sledge as best we could, and once again started. 
 
 " It never rains but it pours." We galloped off and 
 soon found ourselves bumping over a plowed field, 
 only scantily covered with snow ; for the snow had 
 drifted into huge mounds. Round and round these 
 mounds we wandered, almost like traversing a maze, 
 only we failed to derive amusement from the diversion. 
 Then we came to a steep hill leading down to the river. 
 I woke up my friend just in time for her to catch a 
 glimpse of the same wretched horse, who had been the 
 
4 2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 leader in the first mutiny, give a jerk and break the 
 harness in three places, thus setting himself free. Then 
 we went full tilt down on to the frozen river, the free 
 horse keeping up with the others from sheer habit, and 
 the harness dangling behind as usual. We expected 
 another catastrophe every moment, and hardly knew 
 whether to laugh or to cry. We chose the former 
 alternative, and merrily awaited events. On reaching 
 the river, the driver got down, tied up the broken har- 
 ness, abused the horses, and then tore away again. 
 
 Now we thought we should be safe ; but, alas ! we 
 were not yet " out of the wood." The driver had 
 worked himself into a towering rage, and now dashed 
 on, heedless of everything. As we raced through a 
 village, the middle horse tumbled and fell, and we 
 found ourselves firmly wedged in a drift. Another war 
 of words arose between soldier and driver. " They are 
 not horses, but demons ! " roared the soldier to the 
 youth, as blow after blow fell on the jaded horses' backs. 
 We got out of the muddle after the usual struggle 
 and outburst of high words. Another short spin, and 
 we arrived at the post-station at two o'clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 The hard, dirty floor we hailed with delight, and slept 
 heavily for five hours. At some of the post-stations 
 other travelers may be found, of various ages and of 
 both sexes, and they all have to find places on the one 
 floor for the night. Sometimes we were disturbed in 
 
Post- stations. 45, 
 
 the midst of a peaceful slumber by the crying of an 
 infant ; but, as a rule, we were too ready for sleep to 
 pay any attention to disturbances of any kind. Now 
 and then a clean post-station may be met with ; but, 
 generally speaking, they are places to be avoided. As 
 to the state of the atmosphere in the morning, after a 
 number of people, enveloped in dirty sheep-skins, have 
 been enjoying repose, and the room without a chink of 
 ventilation, I leave it to the reader's imagination. 
 
 We arrived at Tobolsk about midnight the following 
 day. Having been previously told that the Governor 
 had kindly engaged a room for us at the hotel, we 
 naturally expected that something nice was in store. 
 Passing the little wooden houses, we saw, not far off, a 
 large brick building. " Oh, that will do," we thought ; 
 " just the thing ! " 
 
 It was rather disappointing to be told that this was 
 the Governor's house. However, we were confident 
 that the hotel would suddenly loom from round some 
 corner, and were still eagerly expectant. We were 
 then driven into a yard, not of the cleanest, and we 
 
 wondered what our man meant by calling at such a 
 
 » 
 place, and thought that there must surely be some mis- 
 take. Adjacent to the yard was a large, tumble-down, 
 wooden house. That was the hotel ! Grieving over 
 baffled hopes, we mounted a flight of stairs and entered 
 a room, the air of which was stiflingly hot. 
 
 A hot room is always a Russian's welcome to a guest, 
 
44 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 and, of course, the higher the temperature of the room 
 the warmer the feelings of the host. This hotel-keeper 
 must have overflowed with cordial sentiments. The 
 double windows were cemented all round, in order to 
 destroy the remotest chance of fresh air entering. The 
 room contained two bedsteads and one mattress. (This 
 was one out of many hotels where visitors were expected 
 to bring their own sheets.) The walls were not clean ; 
 it would be unbecoming, with such a warm reception, 
 to speak more definitely on that point. We saw plainly 
 enough that we should have to sleep on the floor, after 
 all. But the room grew hotter and hotter, although the 
 door had been open for a considerable time ; and we 
 began to feel ill. 1 contemplated adopting a swift and 
 drastic method of letting in a breath of air, but feared 
 that the noise of falling glass might create a commotion 
 in the house, and, perhaps, through the whole town. 
 Then I discovered at one of the windows that the glass 
 had at some time or another been broken, and then 
 plastered over with paper. So I carefully removed the 
 fragments, put my hand through the opening, and 
 pushed hard through the second window, and, lo, the 
 deed was done ! Then we went to sleep on the 
 floor. 
 
 We were compensated for the inconveniences suffered 
 at this hotel by the pleasant surprise the next day 
 on visiting the prison. We found there admirable 
 arrangements in every way. As regards cleanliness 
 
Tobolsk Prison. 45 
 
 and sanitary precautions nothing could be better. Each 
 cell contained but a few prisoners, and the various 
 sections of religionists were kept apart in separate 
 quarters. Instead of the nares (sloping boards), for 
 sleeping upon, proper beds were provided with mat- 
 tresses, and were slung up against the wall in the day- 
 time. The hospital also was very clean, and by no 
 means overcrowded. As we walked through one of the 
 wards a prisoner gave my friend a letter, which a 
 police official in a few moments took out of her hands 
 and read. 
 
 " You don't thrash these fellows enough," said he, in 
 an undertone, to another official standing at the door. 
 
 My friend, overhearing what the officer said, trans- 
 lated it to me, and I at once appealed to him on the 
 prisoner's behalf. After much pleading he promised to 
 forgive the offense, and not to thrash the culprit. 
 
 There is a clean and inviting church attached to the 
 prison, and a pretty little museum in the town. One 
 of my chief objects in coming to Tobolsk was to see the 
 governor about the polluted river. He invited us to 
 lunch with him, and I there laid before him the piti- 
 able case of these poor villagers. He took a warm 
 interest in the matter and promised to investigate it 
 himself. 
 
 At every village station where we stopped, as we 
 proceeded on our journey, numbers of peasants used to 
 assemble, attracted by the red cross on the sledge, and 
 
46 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 which I had been advised to have painted there, as an 
 indication of my connection with the Russian Red Cross 
 Society. As soon as they knew that I was a sister of 
 charity, they used to press into the little room where we 
 were having our tea, bringing their sick and suffering 
 for help. As much as I could I ministered to their 
 bodies, while my friend spoke to them of the great 
 Physician. They were eagerly attentive, seeming, with 
 both ears and eyes, to drink in every word, and a bright 
 smile lit up their countenances as we gave them the 
 little Testaments and Gospels which we had brought 
 with us. The thought came to me that perhaps no 
 woman missionary had passed this way. I knew I was 
 the least worthy to do any work for the Master ; but as I 
 looked at the eager faces around me, I asked him to use 
 me in bringing the people I came across the glad tidings 
 of great joy. 
 
 At the next station my friend found that the driver 
 could read, so we at once gave him a Gospel. Then 
 two other men came up and asked for copies. One was 
 able to read, and the other, an old white-haired man, 
 intended to take the Gospel to his little grandson, who 
 would read it to him. As I looked at these men 
 with their hats off, begging for the Word of Life and 
 Peace, I asked God to bless it to them, and knew that 
 in his own time it would bear fruit. I pictured the 
 old man tottering home, and, in the evening, sitting 
 by the dim light of a tallow candle, earnestly listening 
 
Tukalinsk. 47 
 
 to the little child, who, with his finger on the page, was 
 slowly spelling one sentence after the other. Thus the 
 Lord was, I believed, answering my prayer. When the 
 people gathered round us at the villages, we generally 
 had a good opportunity of giving away Testaments and 
 speaking to them of Christ. It was often a motley 
 group : gray-haired men and women, bowed with age ; 
 young people, looking on with curious, inquiring looks ; 
 children in their quaint frocks and tunics — all trying to 
 catch a glimpse of our faces. 
 
 As we went on, the road became worse and worse, 
 and my friend fell ill from sheer fatigue and want of 
 proper food. We were obliged to stop at Tukalinsk r 
 where we arrived thoroughly exhausted. Here we be- 
 came the objects of some thoughtfuiness, for the post- 
 station being too dirty for habitation, orders had been 
 given to take us to a well-to-do peasant's house. The 
 soldiers led us up the steps, and we were put into quite 
 a comfortable room, like one in an English farm-house. 
 We sat down, and were too ill to speak or to undress. 
 After taking some hot coffee we slept like logs all night, 
 my friend on the sofa and I on the floor, an arrange- 
 ment upon which I firmly insisted, because she was 
 younger than I. 
 
 We rested till the afternoon of the following day, and 
 then hired a sledge to take us round the town — a queer 
 little place, with the houses all tumbled together, built 
 of solid trunks of trees. The greater part of the popu- 
 
4S On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberia* Lepers* 
 
 lation consisted of convicts. We were out about halt an 
 hour ; but as the man took us past the church four 
 times, I have a shrewd suspicion that he took us round 
 and round the same places. 
 
 In the evening we had quite a Avvv. The head of the 
 village, or mayor, a portly person in full dress, with 
 chain, sword, braided jacket, and white kid gloves, and 
 four doctors, came to see us. They sat and talked for 
 nearly four hours, all the men smoking cigarettes. The 
 mayor led the conversation, and, long before the visi- 
 tors left, our throats and heads ached from the talk, and 
 the smoke, and the heat. It was arranged that we 
 should see the prisoners next morning, and that the five 
 gentlemen would come and escort us. C^ne oi them, a 
 veterinary surgeon, presented me with a beautiful model 
 of a church, made by two convicts with an old knife in 
 a dark cell. The next morning, on setting oii to the 
 prison, a severe bourran t or snow-storm, was raging, and 
 the little Siberian horses were very reluctant to take the 
 road. 
 
 We found in Tukalinsk, besides the regular convicts 
 within the prison walls, a great number of those who 
 had served their time, and were free, but unable to get 
 employment, and, perhaps, unwilling. They led a va- 
 grant life, begging from door to door. The residents of 
 the little town had taken compassion, and had built a 
 little two-roomed house as a night refuge, where they 
 huddled together. Many oi the latter miserable fellows 
 
Helping the Prisoners. 49 
 
 came round us begging, with hardly any clothes to cover 
 them, some shoeless, and all hungry. The scene they 
 presented was indeed a piteous one. On reaching the 
 prison we could see nothing but tall wooden palings and 
 the summit of the church. Once inside we found a ter- 
 rible state of things, which contrasted forcibly with the 
 splendid prison we had seen in Tobolsk. It was all the 
 more striking as it was in the same government, and 
 under the same governor ; but I was told that a new 
 prison was shortly to be built. The place was built to 
 hold 70 ; but the usual number of prisoners is 200. 
 The floors were rotten from damp, and the walls bulged 
 from the same cause. There was no ventilation, and all 
 sanitary matters were woefully neglected. No English 
 woman had ever visited this place, and we therefore 
 prized the privilege of being able to speak -to the poor 
 fellows. We had taken some tea and sugar, which we 
 distributed, and then spoke of Christ, giving away Testa- 
 ments, which were eagerly accepted. 
 
 Perhaps some friends might think that this trifling 
 attention to the physical needs of prisoners was super- 
 fluous, and that I ought to have been contented with 
 spiritual ministration. But I asked myself, I hope not 
 presumptuously, what Christ would have done. And 
 I felt that he would first attend in some degree to the 
 material wants of such outcasts, before offering the 
 Bread of Life. Then, too, I knew that the convicts 
 love their tea, and, when once they were sent oil" to 
 
50 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Siberia, tea was seldom provided for them, and being 
 permitted to give this trifling luxury, I tried to reach 
 their hearts by first attending to their bodies. 
 
 I told them to look out for me on the road, when 
 they were moving from place to place, that they could 
 always identify me by the red cross on the sledge, and 
 that I should be always ready to help them as far as I 
 could. Running short of tea and sugar, we had to come 
 the next day with more, and again tried to turn the 
 men's thoughts to the love and sympathy of Christ, and 
 to the hope beyond their present miseries. Now and 
 then some hard face would suddenly light up, as if that 
 hope had already given a moment of joy. Poor fellows ! 
 I have nothing to do with their crimes, and can offer 
 no criticism on prison administration in Russia ; but I 
 firmly believe that, when it becomes practicable to carry 
 out measures of improvement, no time will be lost in 
 accomplishing that desirable end. 
 
 The head policeman spoke very kindly to these men ; 
 they were not frightened and scared, as is generally the 
 case on the approach of their jailer. 
 
 Later in the day, as we were going out, a wretchedly 
 clad convict, but a very fine looking fellow, came up 
 and put an envelope into my hand. He shivered with 
 cold, and looked as if all hope was crushed forever. 
 I promised to give him what assistance I could, telling 
 him that I intended visiting the night refuge the next 
 morning, and would no doubt see him there. 
 
A Convicfs Petition. 51 
 
 The following is the translation of the letter : 
 
 Tukalinsk, Siberia, March 10, 1891. 
 " Your Highness : 
 
 " Having heard of your charitable visits to the poor 
 and oppressed people, we unfortunate convicts, living 
 in the night refuge house which is kept up by the in- 
 habitants of the town of Tukalinsk, dare to appeal 
 to Your Highness to give any kind of help to people 
 who have no possibility of earning anything, and who 
 are in a constant struggle for daily life." 
 
 We visited the vagabond house, or night refuge house, 
 and found the men packed like herrings. It was as 
 much as we could do to pass down sideways, I giving 
 tea and sugar and the little Gospels, and my friend 
 speaking of the Word of Life. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Cl A.NKING chains. 
 
 Homo comforts at Omsk — An additional escort provided — Omsk 
 prison and hospital — Free dinners for the poor — Deserted! — 
 Meeting a gang of prisoners on the road — Scene in an Haft— 
 A great work iov Russian ladies — Improvements in prison 
 administration — Tomsk and its prisons — Haunted dreams — 
 Hangers of crossing thawing rivers. 
 
 Our journey from Tukalinsk to Omsk was accom- 
 plished without any particular mishap, but with the usual 
 discomforts. At the last post-station, before reaching the 
 
 latter place, a soldier was waiting to tell us that the 
 Governor of Omsk. General Sannikoff, had prepared 
 rooms for our reception in his own house. This was 
 cheerful news, for we were in no way reluctant to renew 
 our acquaintance with feather beds and the comforts of 
 the family circle. It was especially welcome, because 
 both my companion and myself would have been 
 considered, under ordinary circumstances, tit objects for 
 a doctor's attention. And, perhaps, it was really about 
 time that we took a little physic. 
 
 We received a most kind and warm welcome at the 
 Governor's house, and were treated throughout our stay 
 of about a fortnight as members of the family. This 
 long visit was owing' chiefly to my ill health ; and 1 am 
 
An Additional Escort. 53 
 
 greatly indebted to the nursing, attention, and medical 
 aid which I received in the Governor's home. 
 
 Much to my regret, it was found absolutely necessary 
 that my friend Miss Field should return home, on 
 account of her continued bad health. She had been 
 interpreter, as well as faithful companion and helper 
 throughout the journey, and I dreaded to think of the 
 difficulties I should have to encounter without her 
 presence. 
 
 Our prayers for guidance and help were not in vain. 
 Before reaching Omsk we had been troubled with a 
 tipsy driver. Somehow or other the General-Governor 
 had heard of the matter ; and it was his opinion that 
 someone more efficient than the common soldier was 
 needed to protect us. So he telegraphed a request to 
 the Governor of Tomsk, who at once sent a special 
 official, one of his attaches. This gentleman arrived at 
 Omsk in four days, thus swiftly traversing a distance 
 of about 800 miles. He could speak French and a 
 little English, and, being also thoroughly well versed in 
 his own language, all fears of future emergencies dis- 
 appeared. So my dear friend left me, intending to 
 interest sympathizers at home in the work to which I 
 was committed. 
 
 The prison at Omsk was in excellent condition. The 
 Governor, out of a good heart, showed great kindness 
 to the inmates, allowing them to work, to sell their 
 goods, and to keep the proceeds for themselves. He 
 
54 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 often bought articles of their production for his own 
 use, and sought to render their sad lives bearable and 
 bright. He assembled the prisoners in the dining hall, 
 where we gave them small packets of tea and sugar, and 
 spoke of Christ. The Governor acted as interpreter, 
 and added to what I said. 
 
 The Military Hospital is a fine establishment, con- 
 taining about 300 soldiers, who are all well cared 
 for. We gave a Gospel to each of the soldiers, who 
 showed gratifying appreciation of this little effort to 
 serve them. 
 
 There is a hall in the town where free dinners are 
 provided for the poor, so that, even in these outlying 
 parts of the empire, the spirit of practical philanthropy 
 is happily illustrated. It was a gratifying sight to see 
 about a hundred of the poorer inhabitants, of all ages 
 and of both sexes, sitting down to an ample meal of 
 wholesome food ; and my thoughts turned for a moment 
 to the same kind of thing going on in England to 
 minister to the wants of the unfortunate people of the 
 slums. After the meal I spoke of God's love, and gave 
 away Testaments, and felt that, on the whole, this was 
 the most pleasing scene I had witnessed since leaving 
 Moscow. The schools were also visited, and Testaments 
 distributed among the children. 
 
 On leaving Omsk I had the misfortune, before many 
 miles had been covered, to be at the mercy of another 
 tipsy driver. The harness-gear of the middle horse 
 
Deserted. 55 
 
 broke with a sharp crack ; there was a great deal of 
 shouting and then perfect stillness, which lulled me to 
 sleep. I awoke to find myself with the tipsy driver 
 curled up asleep on the box, the two horses standing 
 with no one to look after them. The stillness was 
 dreadful ; I was utterly helpless, and the blinding snow 
 dashed in my face. Presently I was startled by seeing 
 a strange man, also tipsy, standing at my side. He 
 proved to be a Yemstchick, or driver of a freight sledge 
 that was passing by. From his maudlin utterances 
 I gathered that the soldier had taken the third horse to 
 some village for new harness, and the official, being 
 some good way in advance in his sledge, had not noticed 
 this mishap. 
 
 It was certainly not a pleasant position for a helpless 
 woman to be in ; but I tried not to think of danger. 
 I knew, however, that the mistaken idea had got 
 abroad that I was rich ; and so, " putting two and two 
 together," the suspicion arose that desperate robbers, 
 lurking in the forest, would suddenly pounce upon me. 
 At such times real and imaginary dangers intermix. 
 I thought that my men deserting me was only part of a 
 conspiracy, and my mind dwelt on the fact that I was 
 in the land of convicts, 40,000 of them being sent 
 hither every year. The hour of suspense seemed six 
 hours ; but at last the soldier returned with the horse, 
 with new harness. It was put in its place, and we 
 started off again. 
 
56 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 We went on about fifteen miles, ami by that time the 
 moon had risen. Presently the horses shied ; and, 
 on looking out, I saw a poor dead horse, which some 
 dogs were quarreling over. The blood-stained snow, 
 and the animal's llesh torn o\(, sent a shudder through 
 me. I saw a similar horrible sight over and over again 
 in the course of my travels, but otie reference to such 
 a subject is quite sufficient, When a horse in these 
 Siberian deserts and forests becomes exhausted and 
 can go no further, it is unharnessed and left to its fate. 
 Siberian drivers say that, if such an overworked horse 
 recovers, he will find his way home in due time, but if 
 not — well, they don't trouble about the matter. Some- 
 times an overworked horse is left standing in the 
 desert) but in too weak a condition to resist the attacks 
 of the savage dogs. What a fate for the poor faithful 
 creatures ! 
 
 On reaching Kainsk we heard that a party of 
 prisoners were in the neighborhood, o\\ their way from 
 the frontier. A strong bourran (snow-storm) was blow- 
 ing ; and I could imagine the poor people Struggling 
 through it. So 1 longed to overtake them, to give them 
 the bits of tea and sugar, in order that they might have 
 something to warm themselves with at the next post- 
 station. 
 
 I inquired at "each post-station, but could learn 
 nothing at first. I was groaning under the almost 
 intolerable pain caused by the constant lurching of the 
 
A" Black Hole." 57 
 
 sledge. I asked at another station for the arriastanty 
 (prisoners), but was promptly told that there were none. 
 Even my old soldier was getting irritable from my 
 pertinacity. At last I found out that there were 
 prisoners in some cells who were to start the next 
 morning, and 1 set off to visit them. " It was too late," 
 I was told ; " they were being locked up for the night ; " 
 but, as the cold wind pierced me, I knew what comfort 
 a little tea would be to them before they started. I 
 persevered, and succeeded in making my way to the 
 place. 
 
 The entrance to the two large cells was quite dark. Two 
 soldiers stood on guard, as usual, with guns and bayonets 
 ready, It was so dark inside that I could only hear 
 the rattle of the chains as the officers called out, " Atten- 
 tion ! " But I felt there were human beings all round 
 me, and, indeed, there were ninety of them crammed 
 into this hole, with not the slightest ventilation. One 
 prisoner led the way, holding a small piece of candle. 
 The men were lying down the center, and on each side, 
 on boards raised a few feet from the floor, and also 
 under these boards, packed so closely that they had 
 hardly room to breathe. They stared at me, half dazed 
 at seeing a woman, alone, among them. They put out 
 their hands for the Gospels ; but I wondered they did 
 not kill me in their desperation, and how easily they 
 could have done it ! Instead of killing me, they blessed 
 my hands for the little gifts. I went along sideways, 
 
58 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 sometimes half stumbling over those who were lying 
 down in the center, and who had not heard me coming, 
 and so bringing a look of terror to their faces. There 
 was one little hump-backed fellow who looked quite 
 ghastly, and, near him, I stumbled against a man on 
 the floor, only saving myself from falling by catching 
 hold of two other prisoners. How tenderly these men 
 helped me ! Their rough hands were as gentle as any 
 woman's. At the end of about three-quarters of an 
 hour I had to leave, for a faintness came over me from 
 the foul air ; but, had I fainted, I should have been 
 as safe among those ninety convicts as in my own home 
 in England. On saying " Good-night " I peered into 
 the darkness toward the men beyond in the next cell, 
 and heard the clanking of their chains, and the groans 
 of those who were ill from fatigue ; but even their 
 thanks rose in one shout, from end to end, as I went 
 out ; and the door was shut and padlocked on those 
 ninety men, lost to their country and to every joy and 
 every comfort of life. May God have mercy ! May He 
 bless those little Gospels, and let them be the means of 
 making those sin-laden people look up to One who is 
 able to save, even them, to the uttermost ! 
 
 I went to rest ; but could rest come to me, with that 
 awful picture in my eyes, and those groans and the 
 rattle of the chains ringing in my ears ? At five the 
 next morning I started on my way. Traveling from 
 place to place, one gets accustomed to meeting the 
 
Gangs of Prisoners. 59 
 
 gangs of weary men and women on their way from the 
 capital and large towns. First of all, a black mass is 
 discovered in the distance ; then, on getting a little 
 nearer, the soldiers' bayonets glitter in the sunlight ; 
 nearer still, you can hear the dismal clank of the chains, 
 and soon the gang is close at hand. In order to insure 
 discipline, it is found necessary to shoot any prisoner 
 who attempts to regain his liberty. An open sledge 
 usually accompanies the party for anyone who falls ill 
 on the way. 
 
 On meeting such a company I usually ordered the 
 driver to stop, and then prepared to go among the 
 convicts. I never could go to them clad in furs from 
 head to foot, with my morsels of tea and sugar, when 
 they were only scantily clothed, and every blast of 
 wind pierced through and through them. My furs 
 would almost have burnt me had I gone to the poor 
 creatures thus clad. So I took off some of them ; then, 
 stuffing the large pockets of my ulster with tea and 
 sugar, and with two large bags strapped over my 
 shoulders, and getting a soldier to carry two or three 
 baskets, I went into the midst of the gang. To see the 
 grateful looks of those men, as I put one of the packets 
 of tea and sugar and a Testament into their hands was 
 worth all the trials I had suffered, and all that were to 
 come. As my bare hands became numbed from ex- 
 posure to the cold, and the icy wind went through me, 
 I realized, in some trifling measure, the same physical 
 
60 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 suffering which they were enduring. I gave a double 
 quantity of tea and sugar to the women, who sometimes 
 were nursing their babies. I have often seen children 
 with these parties, but open sledges were generally 
 provided for them. Some of the women were convicts, 
 and others were accompanying their husbands, from 
 their own choice, into banishment, to be supported at 
 government expenses, taking their children with them. 
 
 It is utterly impossible to describe one's feelings 
 when witnessing such scenes as these ; but the tender- 
 hearted and all lovers of humanity will understand 
 what I experienced. After wishing the people " Good- 
 by," and creeping into my sledge, a sense of misery 
 would come over me, and, at the same time, a sense of 
 gratitude to God for allowing me to give them even " a 
 drop of cold water " in his name. 
 
 How unworthy I felt to do this work ! but I prayed 
 God to make me less unworthy. It is a mission that 
 only the noblest, bravest, and purest in the land should 
 do. And I am so faulty ! Oh, dear Russian ladies, here 
 is work for you ! It is, indeed, woman's work. Oh ! 
 let the condition of these poor creatures, guilty though 
 they may be, bring you into this field, " white unto the 
 harvest." 
 
 There are many in St. Petersburg and Russia who 
 are devoting their whole lives to the bettering of the 
 prisons in Siberia and elsewhere ; and none but those 
 who have traveled through it can understand the im- 
 
Workers Amongst Prisoners. 61 
 
 mense improvements that have been instituted ; and I 
 am only mentioning these various prisons and scenes 
 as contrast's, in order to show the difference where im- 
 provements have been introduced and where they have 
 not. . My work was to get to the lepers ; and it was 
 only through the courtesy of certain people that I was 
 allowed to visit the prisons and etapes. Some of them 
 are undeniably terrible ; but every year vast improve- 
 ments are carried out ; and I dare say that, by now, 
 many of the sad scenes I witnessed are a thing of the 
 past. In many places along the road I found earnest 
 workers among the prisoners, and priests who were 
 devoting their lives to them ; and this desire to minister 
 to their needs is manifested all through Siberia. The 
 still far-off lepers were not forgotten ; but I could not 
 hasten on and refrain from these small efforts among 
 the convicts. Then, too, a feeling was uppermost that 
 I was doing this work on my journey in obedience to 
 the voice of God. Little did I think, when leaving Mos- 
 cow, that such a work would be granted to me, and 
 such opportunities given for ministering, even in a small 
 degree, to the criminals of Russia. 
 
 On arriving at Tomsk, in April, I was too ill to visit 
 the prisons immediately, and had to wait, trying to get 
 strength, for two days. I went to the hospital first, 
 and then to the prisons, where I gave food comforts and 
 Testaments to over 2000 prisoners. To describe in 
 detail all I saw would do no good, especially as many of 
 
62 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 the sad sights I witnessed are a thing of the past. Ow- 
 ing to the earnest representations of the Governor, the 
 government has granted a large sum of money for new 
 prisons and hospitals. 
 
 Can it be wondered at that, when I retired to rest at 
 night, after visiting day by day these scenes, my dreams 
 were haunted by desperate convicts, threatening mur- 
 derers, awful looking women, poor, starving children^ 
 and ever clanking chains ? And the faces of those exiles 
 haunt me still. 
 
 The day before leaving Tomsk the police master of 
 Krasnoyarsk very kindly came to warn me against the 
 dangerous condition of the rivers and roads. His own 
 sledge in traveling to Tomsk had gone through the ice, 
 and he had barely escaped drowning. . The following 
 day he accompanied me to Krasnoyarsk. We had to 
 cross in a heavy tarantass, a vehicle generally used in 
 place of a sledge when the breaking-up season has 
 fairly commenced. I shall have something to say later 
 on about this nerve shaking and bone trying con- 
 trivance. 
 
 On reaching the river it was quite evident that there 
 was danger ahead, for the police master alighted from 
 his carriage, and sent on a man to ascertain the con- 
 dition of the ice. At this time of the year all the 
 rivers become very dangerous. The ice begins to 
 crack and melt ; then it freezes slightty again, so that 
 it is difficult to make sure whether, on leaving one 
 
Danger in Crossing Rivers. 6$ 
 
 side, you will ever arrive at the other. Sometimes 
 straw is laid on the partly melted ice so as to bind the 
 cracked ice with the next frost. The man returned 
 with his report ; and then his courteous master offered 
 me a seat in his light carriage to take me across, which 
 was a clear intimation that if we had ventured on the 
 ice in a heavy tarantass we should have gone under, 
 horses and all. Many lives are lost in the course of a 
 year on these treacherous rivers. As we drove in the 
 carriage premonitory cracks were heard below, which 
 created a little uneasiness. On landing safely we 
 found, in a few minutes, that there was an old, shaky 
 bridge to cross, which we were told was more unsafe 
 than the river, and which was studiously avoided. 
 However, the bridge must be crossed, and we tried our 
 best not to think about danger. The crazy thing shook 
 a great deal, but we got over without an accident, thank 
 God ! 
 
 The dangers one has to face in crossing the thaw- 
 ing rivers were again forcibly impressed upon me near 
 Krasnoyarsk. We had to cross the Yenessei, one of 
 many broad rivers whose acquaintance I had made in 
 the course of my journey. This river, like others, was 
 very broad, containing an immense volume of water. 
 On beginning to cross, the opposite side could hardly be 
 discerned. The feelings of a nervous woman may well 
 be imagined as we ventured on to the moist, cracked 
 surface. Straw was laid, as usual, but it seemed to be 
 
64 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 of little service. Sometimes, when a feeling of dizziness 
 came on, I shut my eyes ; but I knew I was in God's 
 hands, and felt sure that no accident would happen, and 
 that he would allow me to reach my final destination 
 among the lepers. When the other side was safely 
 reached my feelings of relief and gratitude may well 
 be imagined. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 TARANTASS TRAVELING. 
 
 Krasnoyarsk, and its institutions — Improvements in the Russian 
 
 prison system — Character of true Siberian — Buying a tarantass 
 
 — How to "mount" a tarantass — Tarantass "rheumatism," 
 
 its diagnosis and development — Kainsk and its prison — Crossing 
 
 -; a ferry, and arrival at Irkutsk. 
 
 Krasnoyarsk, about 500 miles from Tomsk, is a 
 pretty place. The 'inhabitants call it " lovely," and 
 so it is, when you drive out of the town into the 
 suburbs. The town is pretty and attractive in many 
 ways. The prison is in admirable condition, well 
 managed, with good ventilation, and proper sanitary 
 provisions. I wish again to draw particular attention 
 to the fact, now that Krasnoyarsk prison is mentioned, 
 that improvements are going on, although slowly, in 
 the Russian prison system, and, before many years 
 elapse, we shall probably see reforms carried out uni- 
 versally, similar to those at Krasnoyarsk, Omsk, and 
 other large centers. 
 
 Improvements are also contemplated with respect to 
 the etapes. In about six years, when various railway 
 projects have been realized, many of the present abuses 
 will be at an end, and, among them, the etapes. But, 
 
 65 
 
66 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 in the meantime, let not Christian workers in Russia 
 withhold active help in meeting the wants of the pris- 
 oners. Even when prisons are made more wholesome 
 and healthy, the need will still exist for Christian and 
 philanthropic effort, similar to that carried on in so 
 many parts of the world. 
 
 Besides the excellent prison there is a beautiful little 
 hospital at Krasnoyarsk, supported by some of the 
 inhabitants. All the appliances of the latest scientific 
 discoveries, as well as the best systems of nursing, are 
 here in operation. Another institution in this town is 
 the Home of Orphans, established by a benevolent lady, 
 and kept in perfect condition. The impression conveyed 
 during my stay in the place was of a very delightful 
 nature. I felt that all the people were striving to help 
 one another, and were thus bound together by a cordial 
 and sympathetic relationship. They were, in fact, speci- 
 mens of true Siberians, reminding me very much of 
 British Colonials — frank, honest, upright, truthful, and 
 loyal. They will give a welcome to every stranger, and 
 help all in need. They have a great love for the Czar, 
 but a natural antipathy to officials, who put a wrong 
 construction upon Imperial orders and carry out such 
 orders in accordance with their own private interpre- 
 tations rather than in harmony with the Emperor's 
 wishes. But neither this, nor anything else, shakes their 
 allegiance and devotion to their Czar. 
 
 I had to buy a tarantass before leaving, and created 
 
Buying a Tarantass. 67 
 
 quite a stir by my efforts to come out on the right side 
 of a bargain. Three specimens of this vehicle were 
 brought for me to see, all rubbishing affairs. For one 
 of them I was asked the modest sum of fifty rubles. 
 I packed off men and vehicles, energetically shaking my 
 head, and saying " No." In half an hour there were 
 other arrivals, worse than the first ; and the price de- 
 manded was seventy rubles each. To end matters, I 
 said I should take a tarantass belonging to the Governor, 
 By this time a crowd of villagers had collected to see a 
 foreigner do business. There was a great deal of whisper- 
 ing and talking, and then, when the owners of different 
 vehicles began quarreling and fighting, the hubbub was 
 immense. To see these men fight would have brought 
 a look of contempt on the faces of English fighters. 
 There were no doubled fists ; it was simply an ami- 
 able encounter to see which could lay the other on 
 the ground first. I thought whether it was possible to 
 carry on wars after the same pattern, that is, without 
 the shedding of blood and the infliction of pain. After 
 a lot more chattering, a messenger was sent to me to 
 say I might have a sound and safe tarantass for thirty 
 rubles. I accepted the offer, and also gained valuable 
 experience in doing business. 
 
 Then began the packing of my tarantass, which was 
 no trivial affair. It must be packed carefully, otherwise 
 the ordinary miseries of traveling in such a thing 
 would be considerably intensified. Now, this vehicle, 
 
6$ On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 which was never designed for comfort, is innocent of 
 a single spring. It runs on wheels, and stands a long 
 way from the ground, making it awkward for a woman 
 to get in without assistance. The roads at this time of 
 the year are in a terrible condition ; a plowed field, 
 containing a good many deep ruts, is the nearest 
 description I can give of them. When a thaw com- 
 mences the soft, pulpy state of affairs begins ; then 
 there comes a slight frost and a^ thin layer of ice, fre- 
 quently misleading the traveler. When he thinks he is 
 going to glide along in tolerable ease, he suddenly bumps 
 down through the ice into a great hole of sticky, 
 pulpy mud, or if there has been a very severe frost 
 during the night, all the roads are turned into 
 solid blocks of frozen mud. I know the roads are in 
 excellent condition in some seasons of the year ; but it 
 was not my good fortune to travel at such propitious 
 times. 
 
 Now, when you are once in a tarantass, loaded in the 
 " hold " with all sorts of packages, upon which you lie, 
 you have made up your mind before starting that,, 
 during a journey of iooo miles or so, you will be 
 brave, patient, and resigned. At the very first move of 
 the vehicle you will probably find yourself thrown on to 
 its edge, with your poor feet dashed against the front 
 part, which consists of sharp wood. Then, after scram- 
 bling back into position, the thing lurches, and you feel as 
 if you were trying in vain to keep up with it ; but, after 
 
Torments of a Tarantass. 69 
 
 an hour, you give up all effort, and leave your body to do 
 just what is required. By that time, you have realized 
 in what way the spirit of resignation must be testified. 
 But the body itself begins to complain after the lapse of 
 another hour or two ; and that is just where the " pinch " 
 is, for you cannot, unfortunately, infuse the spirit of 
 resignation into your body. 
 
 Your limbs ache, your muscles ache, your head aches, 
 and, worst of all, your inside aches terribly. " Tarantass 
 rheumatism," internal and external, chronic, or, rather, 
 perpetual, is the complaint from which you will have to 
 suffer during that thousand miles. At the end of the 
 first day you would like a feather bed for about a week ; 
 but, in case there is no hotel accommodation on the 
 route as the day declines, why, then, you must go on all 
 night in your conveyance. Of course you will sleep, 
 and awake nice and fresh at breakfast time. But at 
 sunset, and probably before that hour, you will hanker 
 after that feather bed again, with the addition of a little 
 kind nursing and skillful medical attention. Possibly 
 you may pull up at an hotel the next night; but, by 
 that time, your body declines to take any active exercise 
 in a perpendicular position, and so you stay where you 
 are. In the course of the next twenty-four hours a 
 faint, vapid sort of feeling creeps over you, which may 
 be vulgarly termed " don't care." A little farther, and, 
 somehow, you don't remember the consecutive order of 
 events in your past life, particularly the latter portion 
 
70 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 of it. The next day you become strangely oblivious to 
 wind and weather and everything. And now, several 
 hundred miles or so being accomplished, and having 
 been carried to your quarters, in a more oblivious state 
 than ever, you have no wish save just one — and that is 
 for a month's rest and sleep. 
 
 On reaching Kainsk I visited the prison, which is a 
 large, one. I found, in front of it, the usual number of 
 women, selling bread and soup to the prisoners ; and I 
 gladly bought all they had, and so went in, quite rich 
 in gifts. Every tiny window was crowded with numerous 
 heads, all trying to have a peep at me. I found 186 
 men, all in chains. On seeing us bringing the food a 
 perfect babel of voices greeted us ; and even the presence 
 of the officers did not quiet them, two men taking 
 my hand, and smoothing it with theirs, while tears 
 rolled down their cheeks, and down mine, too. They 
 all crowded as close as they could to get near me, and 
 their faces brightened, often with a smile, as I spoke 
 two or three sentences in half-broken Russian. All the 
 way down the ranks their continuous thanking showed 
 how really grateful they were for even the small help 
 we brought them. But it is not so much the little help 
 as the desire to help them that they realize. In one cell 
 were twenty murderers ; they were placed here owing 
 to no separate cells being empty. I went among 
 them, at my own request, with only a man to carry the 
 provisions and Testaments, in the hope that God would 
 
Approaching Irkutsk. 7 1 
 
 bless the desire to speak to them, and lead them to read 
 his Word. On distributing tea and sugar and the little 
 books their angry, hardened, and almost dehumanized 
 faces slowly softened. On leaving, one of the men, 
 with ready politeness, showed me out of the cell, as it 
 was too dark to see my way. 
 
 And now, on setting off from Kainsk, I looked forward 
 with anticipation, not unmixed with fear, to my visit to 
 Irkutsk. It was here I expected to collect a number of 
 particulars about the lepers of Yakutsk, and to be as- 
 sisted in various ways in the prosecution of the objects I 
 had in view. I arrived at Irkutsk in a pitiable condition, 
 which need not be described in any detailed form, for, 
 after what has been said about tarantass riding in the 
 breaking-up season, my plight may easily be imagined. 
 However, I was not too ill to notice for a moment the 
 •picturesque aspect of the town as we approached it. 
 Its multitude of churches, and the dainty way in which 
 they seem to be built and decorated — its broad, beautiful 
 river, its undulating hills — all gave one the idea of civili- 
 zation, and I seemed to breathe freely again after the 
 desolation and discomfort of the road. We had to cross 
 a ferry, and the tarantass, with all its contents, myself 
 included, was wheeled on to the boat, which was very 
 small, and looked unsafe. The boat was partly paddled 
 and partly hauled across by a rope. The current was 
 strong and I wanted to get out of the tarantass, so that I 
 might have a chance of being rescued in case we were 
 
7 2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 capsized. Such an accident happened once when the 
 archbishop and all his clergy were crossing. However, 
 we landed safely ; and glad enough I was to get into the 
 hotel. For two days I could scarcely walk ; my body 
 ached and smarted as if it had been beaten. As I 
 thanked God with all my heart that he had brought me 
 safely thus far, I felt that nothing in the world would 
 induce me to undertake the journey again, except 
 spreading, in a humble way, the Gospel of Christ and 
 helping the lepers. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 NEARING THE LEPERS. 
 
 Committee formed at Irkutsk — My reception at the meeting, and the 
 results of the deliberations — Official documents showing the 
 position of the lepers in the Viluisk Circuit since 1827 — Sixty- 
 four years' pleading — Miseries of the Yakutsk lepers — The 
 leper outcast's doom — Departure for Yakutsk — Journey up the 
 Lena — Chasing the Governor's steamer — Arrival in Yakutsk. 
 
 After resting two days in Irkutsk I called upon the 
 General-Governor, who received me with great kind- 
 ness. He corroborated all I had heard about the state 
 of the Yakutsk lepers, and, while adding to my infor- 
 mation, was quite eager in offering his services to help 
 them. I suggested the formation of a committee of 
 influential people in Irkutsk, who could arouse the 
 sympathy and obtain the help of the merchants of the 
 town on behalf of their poor lost brethren in the north. 
 We discussed the many difficulties which surrounded 
 the subject, especially the difficulty of evoking sym- 
 pathy for people whose woeful condition was almost 
 unknown. 
 
 His Excellency graciously consented to form a com- 
 mittee, and at length decided that it should consist of 
 the following persons : the Governor-General, His 
 Grace the Archbishop of Irkutsk, His Grace the Arch- 
 
74 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 bishop of Kirensk, the cathedral priest Vinogradoff, His 
 Excellency the State Councilor Sievers, the Inspector 
 of Medicine, the aid-de-camp of the commander of 
 troops. Captain Lvoff, the Mayor, and myself. 
 
 The first meeting was appointed for May i (13), 
 my birthday, and one of the happiest days of my life, 
 for my plans were now to receive official recognition 
 and aid. 
 
 At eleven o'clock the captain came to me and read 
 over the order of proceedings in French. Then we 
 drove to the palace of the Archbishop, and as the car- 
 riage stopped at the gates, my heart gave many a flut- 
 ter of anticipation and hope, as well as of nervous, 
 unaccountable dread. 
 
 We walked up the steps into the hall, where I put 
 on my cap, and then we went into the large reception 
 hall. In five minutes His Excellency the General- 
 Governor, in full uniform, came in, followed by the 
 Mayor, Councilor Sievers, and the Inspector of Medi- 
 cine. After a brief interval the large doors were thrown 
 open, and His Grace the Archbishop entered in full 
 canonicals and orders. The Governor went up to him 
 first and received his blessing, kissing his cheeks and 
 his mouth. A few minutes after the Archbishop of 
 Kirensk arrived, and we all went into the drawing 
 room, furnished with dark and light yellow draperies, 
 which stood out in striking contrast to the robes of the 
 Archbishop and the dresses of the other members. 
 
A Singular Committee Meeting. 75 
 
 What a strange meeting it was ! As I knew only a 
 few words of Russian, the proceedings were translated 
 to me by Captain Lvoff. I was treated with the utmost 
 kindness and courtesy by all present, each trying to 
 surpass the other in politeness and kind attentions. 
 They promised to carry out every suggestion, and bound 
 themselves to help in every way in their power. It 
 was amusing to see the shy manner in which they 
 glanced at me every now and then. Really, the tables 
 seemed to be turned, and my nervousness and alarm 
 seemed to be transferred to them. We had glasses of 
 tea, or rather, they ; for I was provided with a special 
 cup, which appeared lost among the glasses, just as I 
 looked among these great people. We talked for two 
 hours and then went into the hall. I had begged that 
 our photographs might be taken later on, as a remem- 
 brance of this special meeting on behalf of the lepers, 
 hoping it was the beginning of real and continuous 
 help for them. So we were all taken in a group ; and, 
 after a few words of farewell, we separated. 
 
 The following extract from the minutes of the meet- 
 ing was afterward sent on to me by Captain Lvoff : 
 
 " The said members decided as follows : 
 
 " 1. To take no steps until Miss Marsden personally 
 
 inspects the position of the lepers of the Viluisk Circuit, 
 
 and gets acquainted with the exact number of lepers. 
 
 For this last purpose she will have to address a set of 
 
76 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 medical questions to them. The committee will only 
 give its decision when Miss Marsden has presented her 
 report and opinion as to the best way of alleviating the 
 position of the lepers. 
 
 " 2. The Archbishop expressed his intention to write 
 a letter to the Bishop of Yakutsk and Viluisk, commend- 
 ing Miss Marsden to his care and help. 
 
 " 3. It was decided to send a telegram to the Medical 
 Department, asking them to send a copy of Dr. 
 Krasnoffs report about leprosy in the Viluisk Circuit 
 in 1865. 
 
 " The minutes of the above decisions were written 
 down for Miss Marsden by the Secretary, Captain 
 Lvoff, Aid-de-camp to the Governor. 
 
 "Irkutsk, May 27, 1891." 
 
 During the next day or two I made arrangements 
 for setting off to Yakutsk ; but, before giving an account 
 of that journey, it is desirable to supply the reader, at 
 this stage, with a few details I had received respecting 
 the lepers in the above district. The General-Governor 
 furnished me with an official statement, of which the 
 following is a translation by Captain Lvoff, showing the 
 position of the lepers during the last sixty-four years. 
 I trust the reader will give these documents his 
 careful attention, as well as every other document 
 quoted in this book. They fully bear out every detail 
 I have mentioned and shall mention. With all the 
 
Official Report. 77 
 
 contradictions and opposite statements about Siberia at 
 the present moment, it is necessary to have Russian 
 official documents as confirmatory evidence of all that 
 is stated. 
 
 Document i. 
 
 "In 1827 the Viluisk doctor first gave information 
 that among the Yakuts of the Viluisk Circuit had 
 appeared an incurable disease, called leprosy. Dr. 
 Kruse confirmed this report, saying that this disease 
 had been devastating the land for some time past. 
 AVith regard to hospitals there was only one miserable 
 yourta, which held five lepers at that time, and seven 
 other patients suffering from other diseases, and all the 
 patients were under one roof. Dr. Uklonsky, seeing 
 the frightful condition of this yourta, addressed a 
 petition to the Committee of Hospitals and Medical 
 Institutions in Siberia, asking them to build a small 
 hospital in Viluisk, if only for fifteen patients, and 
 asking the committee to buy, for that purpose, his 
 own house, costing 500 rubles. The house was bought 
 in 1834. In 1835 the Yakutsk government informed 
 the General-Governor that the house that had been 
 bought was not fit for a hospital, that it was old and 
 badly built, and that it was impossible to place patients 
 in it. 
 
 " In this state affairs dragged on till 1839. In 1840 
 the head medical inspector was himself a witness of 
 
78 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 the sufferings endured by the lepers in this yourta, and 
 he was convinced that it was absolutely necessary to 
 build a hospital for twenty-five patients. The engineers 
 informed the General-Governor that, for building a 
 hospital, the sum of 12,857 rubles would be necessary. 
 In 1843 the Governor of Yakutsk informed the General- 
 Governor that there was a house to be sold in Viluisk 
 for 1200 rubles, and that by purchasing this house 
 an economy of more than 10,000 rubles would be 
 effected. But in 1845 the Governor wrote to the 
 General-Governor that this house was also in a bad 
 condition, and that they must decide to erect a new 
 building. In 1846 the General-Governor informed the 
 Minister of the Interior that a hospital in Viluisk was 
 absolutely necessary, and that it must be built at the 
 expense of the government, as the Siberian Committee 
 of Hospitals could not incur the expense of the said 
 building, in view of the insufficiency of present funds. 
 In 1852 the Minister of the Interior informed the 
 General-Governor that- the condition of the state 
 finances would not permit of the before mentioned 
 expense, and that the committee must find the 
 necessary means to build a hospital. In 1855 the 
 Governor of Yakutsk informed the General-Governor 
 that there was a capital of 20,000 rubles, which had 
 been given by the Russo-American Company in 1823 
 to help the Yakuts, on account of the great loss of 
 horses they had incurred during the great epidemic then 
 
Official Delay. 79 
 
 existing, and that this money up to the present time 
 had not been touched, and could be easily used for the 
 construction of a hospital in Viluisk and another one 
 in Verchoyansk. At the same time the Governor said 
 that the money would be only sufficient for a hospital 
 of thirty beds, whereas two hospitals were needed for 
 sixty patients. In 1855 the ispravnick, by order of the 
 Yakutsk Governor, ascertained whether^the Yakuts were 
 willing that the money of the Russo-American Company 
 should be used for the construction of two hospitals 
 instead of their receiving the money for the horses they 
 had lost in 1823. In 1857 the Yakuts of the Viluisk 
 and Verchoyansk circuits decided to assign the said 
 capital for the hospitals, but the Yakuts of the Yakutsk 
 Circuit were unwilling to share the expense. In 1857 
 the General-Governor begged the Yakutsk Governor to 
 find other means with which to build a hospital in 
 Viluisk. In i860 the Governor of Yakutsk informed 
 the General-Governor that he cannot find other means 
 for the construction of the said hospitals ; but with the 
 money that he hoped to collect among the Yakuts, a 
 new hospital yourta could be built, with all the necessary 
 comforts, for the treatment of lepers. In i860 they 
 had at last the possibility of building a small shelter 
 for forty lepers in the Sredni Viluisk oulousse ; but, 
 owing to the insufficiency of means, this small hospital 
 was closed three years after — that is, in 1863. In i860, 
 by order of the General-Governor, the Committee of 
 
So On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Hospitals in Siberia received of the Russo-American 
 Company's money the sum due to the said committee for 
 the treatment of the Yakuts during the space of several 
 years. But, nevertheless, the committee had not the 
 possibility of assigning the sum for the construction of 
 hospitals in Viluisk, Verchoyansk, and Olekminsk, yet, 
 at the same time, consented, in case of hospitals being 
 built in the said towns, to send every year the necessary 
 doctors to treat the lepers. On the 20th of October, 
 
 1863, the Cabinet of His Imperial Majesty the Emperor 
 assigned the yearly sum of 3000 rubles for the 
 sick of the Yakutsk government. With this capital, 
 and the money gathered from the Yakuts, four hospitals 
 were built, which began to work the 4th of October, 
 
 1864, in Olekminsk ; in Verchoyansk, the 1st of Decem- 
 ber, 1864 ; in Kolimsk, the 1st of January, 1865 ; and 
 in Viluisk, the 20th of October. At the present 
 time — 1881 — there is a small hospital in Viluisk, with a 
 doctor for eight patients suffering from syphilis. All 
 other patients have no possibility of treatment, although, 
 besides syphilis, smallpox and leprosy devastate the 
 Viluisk Circuit." 
 
 Document 2. 
 
 " The present existing hospital is very small and 
 dirty, the air is polluted, the patients have neither 
 linen, bath, nor kitchen. There are eighty lepers said 
 to be in the Viluisk Circuit ; but it is supposed that 
 
Official Report. 81 
 
 there are far more, as the Yakuts try in every way to 
 hide the disease, being afraid of expulsion from the 
 community, which always happens as soon as they find 
 a leper among them. The doctors assert that leprosy 
 is an incurable disease, and not understood, and that it 
 arises from the condition of the life of the Yakuts. The 
 immense forests, the endless marshes, the dampness of 
 the air, the unclean habits of the natives, their food of 
 rotten fish, water taken from marshes and lakes, the 
 insufficiency of bread, meat, salt, etc., the famine that 
 often assails the country — these are the causes of this 
 frightful disease, slowly but surely killing the people 
 thus afflicted. Add to this that the patients of the 
 two sexes are always together ; we can then have 
 a much better idea of the causes of this horrible 
 malady. 
 
 " The administrative council of Yakutsk, held in Sep- 
 tember, 1890, found it absolutely necessary to help the 
 population with respect to the medical question, and, as 
 far as possible, to consider how to better the soil by 
 draining the marshes, which cover the greater part of 
 this immense country. The General-Governor Goremi- 
 kin coincided with the opinion of the Governor respect- 
 ing this question, but decided that, before undertaking 
 such measures, it was indispensable to study the ques- 
 tion of leprosy on the spot by sending a special doctor, 
 who would be able to inform them how better to alle- 
 viate the future condition of the lepers." 
 
82 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 It will be seen, from a careful perusal of these 
 official documents, that, although attempts have been 
 made in the course of sixty-four years to provide a per- 
 manent shelter for the lepers, yet, in 1891, no hospital 
 existed specially for them. The hospitals mentioned at 
 the close of Document No. 1 were general hospitals, or 
 for particular diseases other than leprosy. 
 
 A critic of these documents who is inclined to be 
 severe on official red-tapeism and repeated delays must 
 remember the great distance of Yakutsk from St. Peters- 
 burg (about 5000 miles), and that the transmission of a 
 letter between the two places and back takes many 
 months, and particularly a long time during the break- 
 ing-up season. But, notwithstanding any extenuating 
 circumstances, the fact remains that for sixty-four years 
 the lepers of Yakutsk pleaded in vain for a permanent 
 place of shelter. It is enough to make one's heart 
 bleed to read that the hospital opened in i860 for forty 
 lepers had to be closed three years later, " owing to 
 insufficiency of means." Better had it been for their 
 hopes not to be realized at all than for the boon granted 
 to be snatched away after three short years. 
 
 So, after their brief respite from awful loneliness 
 and misery, these poor creatures were turned adrift to 
 seek again, in the untrodden depths of the forest, the 
 only home which their fellow-creatures would allot 
 them. 
 
 Think for a moment what thesq forsaken ones have to 
 
"No Hope!" 83 
 
 endure in their exposure and extreme cold and intense 
 heat. " Yakutsk is the coldest place in the world. For 
 about eight months in the year the mean temperature is 
 45 of frost (92 Fahr. below freezing point). The 
 ground is frozen for thirty-five feet, and the immense 
 forests are scenes of utter desolation."* The heat in 
 summer is so great that myriads of mosquitoes and flies 
 infest the air, torturing both man and beast, and attack- 
 ing especially the sores of the lepers, who sometimes are 
 too weak to keep them off. When once a man is known 
 to be tainted with leprosy, he is thrust out from his peo- 
 ple, and driven away, as if he were some noxious animal, 
 into a lonely spot in the forest, or on the marshes, where 
 he is doomed to a living death. He knows that his dis- 
 ease is incurable, and that return to his friends is impos- 
 sible. A father, or a mother, a son or a daughter, full 
 of life and energy, whoever the victim may be, expulsion 
 follows immediately on the discovery of the fatal signs. 
 *' No hope ! no hope ! " is the dread sentence ringing 
 in the victim's ears ; and as he leaves his native haunts 
 he knows that never more, perhaps, will a loving face 
 greet him, or kind hands minister to his needs, or the 
 pleasant sound of wife, child, sister, or brother's voice 
 fall upon his ears. He knows he may perhaps have fif- 
 teen or twenty years to live — a loathed outcast from 
 mankind. The only shelter he can find is some filthy 
 little yourta (hut), which may have been tenanted by an- 
 *Quoted from Dr. Lansdell's book. 
 
84 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 other leper, who now, perhaps, is buried near the 
 threshold. His first duty is to make a cross,* which he 
 is bound to place outside, as a warning to anyone who 
 may happen to pass to shun him. And so he begins his 
 outcast leper life — a life so absolutely awful and miser- 
 able that none can realize it except a leper outcast like 
 himself. 
 
 There are few people, I think, who will hesitate to 
 agree with me that such lepers are the most pitiable and 
 the least cared for of all God's creatures. Can it be 
 wondered, then, that having, as I humbly believe, a call 
 from God to minister to those whom no one cares for, 
 and having heard of the sufferings of these Yakutsk 
 lepers, I should answer the Divine summons by doing 
 all in my power, in face of every obstacle, to help them ? 
 
 Having completed my preparations, and being pro- 
 vided with letters of introduction to the Yakutsk gover- 
 nor, in addition to the letter of Her Imperial Majesty, I 
 set off from Irkutsk. The first and shortest part of the 
 journey we traveled by tarantass. The stage of 235 
 vests brought us to the River Lena, where we were to re- 
 sume the journey by water up to Yakutsk. The barge 
 (pauzock) which carried us was little better than a raft, 
 covered over, intended only for transporting goods be- 
 tween Irkutsk and Yakutsk. I had to sleep among the 
 cargo, and for the three weeks which the journey oc- 
 cupied we had to rough it in every way. I forbear from 
 *See Irkutsk Eastern Reviezv, March 10, 1801, No. 11. 
 
On the Lena. 85 
 
 enumerating the many inconveniences and troubles which 
 had to be borne, and which alone might fill a little vol- 
 ume. How my heart rose in thankfulness to God, on 
 coming near Yakutsk, that I had been spared, after 
 going through so many dangers since leaving England, 
 to see the country in which I intended to work ! It was 
 June now. How much had happened in that twelve 
 months of my experience ! 
 
 On approaching the mainland of Yakutsk we heard 
 from a native that the Governor had left the town, and 
 that there were no lepers at all in the Viluisk Circuit ! 
 The latter part of the statement I knew to be untrue ; 
 but the former part quite upset me. It was most im- 
 portant that I should see the Governor ; but how was 
 this to bed one ? The only way out of the difficulty was 
 to go ashore, and, by a short cut through the forest, reach 
 another point of the river, where I might hear tidings 
 of the Governor, or perhaps meet with the boat that was 
 taking him away. The master of the barge very 
 promptly offered to escort me. We traveled through 
 miles and miles of dense forest, with only one narrow 
 road cut through, meeting many of the Yakuts in their 
 strange dress, with high sleeves, just like ladies' sleeves 
 at home. We also met strings of carts, drawn by bul- 
 locks, with rings through their noses, and only a collar 
 of wood, and two wooden poles to keep them in their 
 places. As we approached the river again I saw an 
 ominous appearance of smoke, as if a steamer were 
 
86 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 starting. We made our little horses tear away, and on 
 reaching the shore got into the first empty boat we saw. 
 The steamer was now going at full speed, but our man 
 pushed on with all his might. Then, to my intense 
 satisfaction, I saw the paddle reversed, and knew the 
 steamer would stop in answer to our signals. On row- 
 ing alongside the steps were lowered ; I got on board 
 and saw the Governor, who gave me one of the warmest 
 welcomes it has ever been my good fortune to receive. 
 His account of the lepers was fearful. He begged me 
 to go to them, and said he had made all necessary 
 arrangements for me before his departure. So, after an 
 hour's chat, the steamer speeding on all the time, I 
 scrambled down the side and re-entered that little leaky 
 boat. For two hours we baled and baled, and really 
 that rapid, dangerous Lena seemed eager to draw us 
 into her embrace. It was one o'clock at night, or 
 A. m., according to our ways of reckoning ; but it was 
 quite light, and the northern lights, though trying, were 
 beautiful. We landed safely, and, after another little 
 journey, I arrived at last in the town of Yakutsk. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 YAKUTSK — THE PROVINCE AND THE PEOPLE. 
 
 Area and population of Yakutsk — Native traits and habits — Poverty 
 of the people partly caused by leprosy — Rules of etiquette — 
 Laying up stores for twelve months — Visit to the bishop — Kind- 
 ness of the bishop — Formation of a committee for the lepers — 
 "A chiel amang us takin' notes " — Arrangements for forming 
 the cavalcade to the lepers — My outfit — The start for the 2000 
 miles' ride on horseback. 
 
 The Yakutsk province, situated in the far northeast 
 of Siberia, extends over 3,500,000 square versts (nearly 
 2,500,000 miles), and contains only 250,000 inhabit- 
 ants. The population is made up of different tribes, 
 the Yakuts, a people of Mongolian origin, forming more 
 than three-quarters of the entire number. There are 
 about 16,000 Russians, and the rest of the population 
 consists of several small nomad tribes, such as the 
 Toungus, the Tchuktes, the Lamouts, the Youkagirs, 
 and the Tchuvantses. 
 
 For administrative purposes the province is divided 
 into circuits, oulousses (a district including several 
 villages), and nasslegs (village communities). There are 
 five circuits in this province, namely : the Yakutsk, the 
 Viluisk, the Olekminsk, the Verchoyansk, and the 
 Kolimsk. The town of Yakutsk, with a population of 
 
 87 
 
88 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 about 7000, is the chief administrative center of the 
 province, and stands on the River Lena. 
 
 The Viluisk Circuit, which interests us the most 
 under the present conditions, extends over 883,000 
 square versts (about 559,000 miles), and comprises four 
 oulousses : the Viluisk, the Sredni Viluisk, the Marinsk, 
 and the Suntarsky. Forests, marshes, and lakes 
 abound ; and along the shores of lakes and rivers there 
 are patches of pasture land which the inhabitants utilize 
 on a small scale for rearing cattle. As no arable land 
 exists the natives are not agriculturists, while fur trad- 
 ing, which is comparatively flourishing in other parts of 
 the province, is here very fluctuating and small. 
 
 The natives, even now, are only in a semi-barbarous 
 state, having but recently been brought under the 
 influence of civilization. In their original state they 
 were idolaters, and at the present time, although con- 
 sidered Christians, they are addicted to many heathen 
 practices. Their abodes are found on the margins of 
 lakes and rivers, where small communities are formed 
 at long distances from each other. This comparative 
 isolation of the communities seems to be a desirable 
 arrangement, owing to the quarreling propensities of 
 the people. They are also very distrustful, and, there- 
 fore, secretive and taciturn ; but, nevertheless, they are 
 always ready to give a hearty welcome to a stranger, 
 who may, if he likes, help himself to the contents of 
 the humble larder. Most of the inhabitants of the 
 
The People of Yakutsk. 89 
 
 Viluisk Circuit are very poor, and how some of them 
 continue to exist is little short of a mystery. The fur 
 trade offers a fluctuating source of livelihood ; and many 
 of the people make odds and ends, such as baskets, 
 vessels for food, drinking vessels, ornaments, and cradles 
 out of the bark of trees. Some of these baskets are very 
 pretty, being interlaced with fish scales, which radiate 
 with all kinds of colors. The people live in yourtas 
 (huts), of simple construction, for the most part ex- 
 tremely dirty, and devoid of the ordinary comforts of 
 home life. The yourta for winter habitation is usually 
 made of light beams, well plastered externally with thick 
 layers of clay and cow-dung. 
 
 The poverty of the people, in a measure, arises from 
 the ravages of leprosy among the able-bodied. The 
 Sredni Viluisk oulousse is the greatest sufferer in this 
 respect ; and thus the accumulation of arrears of taxes 
 is constantly on the increase. Suntarsky, when com- 
 pared with the other oulousses, is said to be wealthy, the 
 people being able to build yourtas similar to the Russian 
 peasants' izbas, and to provide themselves with at least 
 one great domestic comfort — a good Russian stove. 
 
 The town of Yakutsk is not a pretty place, and has a 
 dreary, dead appearance. At eight o'clock the houses 
 are shut up, and there are no amusements or recreations. 
 
 The winter temperature is about 45 of cold, and the 
 air is then filled with mist or fog. The shawl which 
 screens the face is soon covered with a sheet of ice on 
 
90 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 •account of respiration ; the frost also covers the eye- 
 lashes, so that it is almost impossible to see at all. 
 Sometimes the cold is so frightful that strong people 
 cannot go out of their houses for days together. It is 
 not light till ten or half-past, and is dark about two ; 
 and this state of things continues for nearly eight 
 months of the year. 
 
 The people play cards and smoke, sometimes six 
 hours out of twelve. All the ladies smoke ; and the 
 first thing offered to a guest on his or her arrival is 
 a cigarette. The samovar and tea follow, and while 
 smoking, tea drinking, and talking are going on, the 
 men walk up and down the room the whole time. 
 Never mind how small the room, this constant walking, 
 talking, and smoking all at once is an inveterate habit. 
 
 The stranger, of necessity, gets somewhat bewildered, 
 until he makes up his mind to feel at home. According 
 to the rules of etiquette, the gentleman must be the first 
 to give his hand to the visitor, who must take off in the 
 hall his cloak, or shouba, and fur boots. On no account 
 must the visitor enter the room in his outdoor costume ; 
 and if he declines the proffered tea he is guilty almost 
 of a crime. The poorer people use sheets of ice three or 
 four inches thick instead of glass windows, and how 
 they keep themselves warm is almost incomprehensible. 
 Stores come in once a year, and the people must buy 
 for twelve months. There are doctors, but no chemists, 
 and the doctors only buy drugs from Irkutsk once a year 
 
A Bishop's Welcome. 91 
 
 Soon after my arrival in the town of Yakutsk I went 
 to see the bishop. We drove in a vehicle called a 
 dolgashka, which consists of a few boards, painted a dark 
 color, placed on wheels, forming a long center back ; the 
 people sit sideways and back to back ; it can hold six or 
 eight people, and is considered a superior kind of vehicle. 
 In passing through the broad streets, lined with dilapi- 
 dated houses, we met a few Yakuts driving carts drawn 
 by bullocks, and sitting on the animals' backs. Their 
 tall hats, long, high-shouldered cloaks, high top-boots, 
 and singularly plain faces looked altogether comical. 
 
 In the garden of the bishop were three churches ; 
 and as I mounted the wooden stairs of his house, and 
 entered the small, plain hall, the unpretentious look of 
 the place struck me. When His Grace came in, it was 
 impossible not to be attracted by his noble, peaceful 
 face. Devout, unruffled restfulness seemed to be im- 
 printed there ; and, as he welcomed me, that peaceful- 
 ness seemed somehow to influence me. His blue robes, 
 the blue furniture, and the blue paper on the walls 
 seemed to give him almost an ethereal look ; but of 
 course this was only a woman's fancy. He greeted me 
 most kindly. He is very earnest in his work, and does 
 not limit it to Yakutsk only, but sends missonaries 
 thousands of versts up to the North, among the different 
 tribes, to proclaim the glad tidings of Christ's love. 
 His Christianity is practiced in all his daily works. 
 
 I spoke about forming a committee in Yakutsk ; and 
 
92 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 he at once promised to use every exertion to bring the 
 leading people together, and to help the lepers, not 
 only by relieving their material wants, but also by 
 giving them an opportunity of receiving the consola- 
 tions of religion. He gave me one of the rare copies of 
 the complete New Testament in the Yakutsk tongue. 
 
 On my referring to the herb he said, much to my 
 surprise and delight, that he had a few specimens, and 
 before I left he placed some in my hands. He could 
 give no definite information as to its curative or 
 alleviating properties. It was, however, a source of 
 some satisfaction that the reports I had heard were 
 not altogether groundless. As I was leaving he came 
 forward and blessed me. Perhaps some friends may 
 think it wrong of me (a Protestant) to receive the bless- 
 ing of a dignitary of the Greek Church. I took it as a 
 sign of oneness in Christ, notwithstanding wide diver- 
 gences in creed, and as a mark of brotherhood among 
 those working for Christ and in his name. I rejoice 
 to believe that, with our Lord, there is no distinction of 
 church or creed ; we are all one in him, and he in us. 
 I must add that, during the time I spent in Yakutsk, 
 the bishop looked after me lovingly and tenderly, as 
 if I had been his own daughter. 
 
 Not only from the bishop but also from a doctor in 
 the town I heard fearful accounts of the lepers in the 
 forests and on the marshes, which were almost inacces- 
 sible. The doctor begged me to take tea and tobacco, 
 
Medical Inspector's Report. 93 
 
 luxuries unknown to them. I longed to get off, but had 
 to wait for the committee to meet, while the prepara- 
 tions for so long and difficult a journey involved a great 
 deal of thought. At last the committee met, consisting 
 of the following members : His Eminence the Bishop of 
 Yakutsk, Meletie ; His Excellency the Vice-Governor, 
 Mons. Ostashkin ; the medical inspector, Mons. Smirnoff ; 
 the doctor of the district, Mons. Tschevinsky : the 
 doctor of the Yakutsk Hospital, Mons. Nesmeloff ; the 
 assistant of the Viluisk police ; the tchinovnick of the 
 Governor ; the Cossack, Jean Procopieff ; and myself. 
 
 We discussed the state of the lepers, who had been 
 visited by the medical inspector, whose report,* while 
 corroborating what I had already heard, supplied ad- 
 ditional details of terrible sufferings. Then the ques- 
 tion of getting to the lepers came up ; and various 
 suggestions were made for my guidance. A plan was 
 prepared of the route I ought to take. But I must 
 refer, in passing, to some difficulties, which I thought 
 were particularly serious for a woman to suffer. Not- 
 withstanding my credentials, a suspicion existed that I 
 was nothing better than a political spy ; and it is not 
 always pleasant to find that there is "a chiel amang us 
 takin' notes," which " notes " may be used against one 
 at some future time. It seems to be one of the primary 
 duties of some of the officials in Yakutsk to look out 
 for suspects, and carry a notebook and pencil in their 
 pockets for jotting down any matters which may 
 * See Appendix. 
 
94 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 appear to them of a compromising nature. After some 
 delay I began buying stores for the journey. 1 cannot 
 enumerate everything, but only just a few to give an 
 idea of what we thought it necessary to take. Dried 
 bread (almost as hard as a stone, and which had to be 
 soaked in tea before being eaten) packed in fish skins 
 and boxes, covered with fish skin, and, for this reason, 
 smelling and tasting forever after o( bad fish — tea, sugar, 
 tobacco, tinned meats and fruits, biscuits, and an assort- 
 ment of drugs and an en-route basket from Drew & Sons, 
 Piccadilly. What became of most of these things the 
 reader can easily imagine as we continue this narrative. 
 
 The Cossack, jean Procopieff, knowing of my small 
 pecuniary means, and being touched deeply by the 
 sufferings of the lepers, offered, with expressions of 
 sympathy, to lend me all the horses required for the 
 journey as far as Viluisk. He further offered his 
 services as leader of the cavalcade. It was useless to 
 think of traveling by tarantass; such a conveyance 
 would have got wedged fatally in the forest, or would 
 have sunk in some treacherous morass before a single 
 mile had been covered. It was therefore absolutely 
 necessary to make the journey on horseback, and also 
 necessary to employ a number of men not only for 
 carrying stores, but also as a means of protection against 
 the dangers to be encountered, not the least among 
 them being the bears, with which the woods are infested. 
 Our cavalcade was a curious one. It consisted of fifteen 
 
Yakutsk Horses. 95 
 
 men and thirty horses. The photographer in the town 
 tried to take our photographs, hut the attempt was a 
 failure, for someone moved during the operation. I 
 rather shrink from giving a deseription of my costume, 
 because it was so inelegant. I wore a jacket, with very 
 long sleeves, and had the badge of the red cross on my 
 left arm. Then I had to wear full trousers to the 
 knees. 
 
 The hat was an ordinary deer-stalker, which I had 
 bought in London. I carried a revolver, a whip, and a 
 little traveling bag, slung over the shoulder. I was 
 obliged to ride as a man for several reasons — first, 
 because the Yakutsk horses were so wild that it was 
 impossible to ride safely sideways ; second, because no 
 woman could ride on a lady's saddle for 3000 versts ; 
 third, because, in the absence of roads, the horse 
 has a nasty propensity of stumbling on the stones and 
 among the roots of trees, which in these virgin forests 
 make a perfect network, thus precipitating the un- 
 fortunate rider on to the ground ; and, fourth, because 
 the horse frequently sinks into the mud up to the 
 rider's feet, and then, recovering its footing, rushes 
 madly along among the shrubs and the branches 
 of trees, utterly regardless of the fact that the lady 
 rider's dress (if she wore one) was being torn into 
 fragments. For these reasons I think no one will 
 blame me for adopting man's mode of riding, and 
 for making adequate provisions by means of the 
 
g6 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 thick leather boots against the probability of bruises, 
 contusions, etc. 
 
 Before starting the bishop invited us all to his 
 house for prayer. He held a special service, praying 
 for God's blessing and protection on our work. It was 
 a touching sight — this motley assemblage of men, and 
 I the only woman among them, receiving the benedic- 
 tion of this servant of Christ on the eve of our perilous 
 journey. 
 
 Our object being a very serious one, I took care that 
 as little attention as possible should be attracted by our 
 departure. All being ready, we set out on the journey 
 of 2000 miles on June 22, 1891. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FIRST EXPERIENCES OF THE 2000 MILES ON HORSEBACK. 
 
 What the map says — Sinking into bogs — Camping out — Precau- 
 tions — Mosquito torments begin — Sleeping in a graveyard — A 
 singular chorus — Visions of home and of the lepers — A very sim- 
 ple breakfast — Siberian thunderstorm — A dead horse and an 
 eagle — Filthy yourtas — Ravages of mosquitoes — A witch fable — 
 Earth-combustion — Fallen trees — Another thunderstorm — Some 
 results of our shaking — Bear alarms and scaring methods — Food 
 of natives — Frozen corpses — A yourta menu — Graves with a tragic 
 history — Keeping my journal — Depression — Arrival at Viluisk. 
 
 Let me say to the reader, who at this moment may 
 consult a map of Asia in orded to test the accuracy of 
 the statement respecting the number of miles traversed 
 on this eventful journey, that, during the whole of the 
 journey to the extreme points north, east, and west, we 
 were perpetually traveling zigzag fashion, or " tacking 
 about." This tedious aspect of the journey was 
 rendered necessary partly by the rough and pathless 
 nature of the country through which we had to ride, and 
 partly from the lepers being scattered about, remotely 
 from each other, and quite away from any direct or 
 straightforward course that we would have preferred 
 taking. It is true, a post-road from Yakutsk is marked 
 on the map, but only exists in the imagination of the map 
 engraver. The post service, which is not a daily, but 
 
 97 
 
98 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 only a monthly affair in these regions, is carried on 
 under much the same difficulties which we encountered 
 — along a half-obliterated track — usually ; or through 
 forests and over marshes, with no sign of a path, in the 
 best way suggesting itself at the moment. 
 
 The Yakut Cossack, already mentioned, led the way : 
 and we had sent on ahead a detachment of the men 
 with the tents, an arrangement which rather made me 
 quake, in case we should lose the men, and have no 
 shelter at night. 
 
 At the outset of the journey my " experience " began. 
 We had not gone far when the horses sank up to their 
 haunches in a bog and began to plunge desperately. I 
 had to hold on with all my might, while the men yelled 
 at the animals to exert themselves. We rode in single 
 file, and when the Yakut's horse in front partly dis- 
 appeared we knew there were bogs ahead, and must 
 therefore pick another way. As a rule it was quite 
 impossible to know where one was going. On the 
 borders of the forest we camped for the night. Fires 
 were lighted, tents pitched, tea handed round, horses 
 unloaded and tethered, and then we retired. At the 
 side of each member of the cavalcade lucky enough to 
 possess a revolver or gun, the weapon lay ready, in case 
 of emergencies, the said emergencies referring chiefly 
 to bears. Some men were placed as sentries, and also 
 to keep up the fires. 
 
 The next day we started early, and our torments from 
 
A Night in a Graveyard. 99 
 
 mosquitoes began. They literally swarmed around us, 
 and, in spite of gloves and a special arrangement for 
 the head and shoulders, my hands, wrists, and face 
 became swollen to alarming dimensions. These pests 
 seemed to besiege every crevice where they could con- 
 trive to squeeze their bodies in. It was impossible to do 
 much in trying to drive them off, for I dared not let go 
 the reins, which, by the way, were very primitive of their 
 kind and very hard — made of horses' tails — and, before 
 long, wore out my gloves and blistered my hands. All 
 my riding gear, including the quaint Yakut saddle, made 
 of wood — most inconveniently wide — with a cushion fas- 
 tened on to the top of it, the bridle and reins, and all my 
 own attire I have brought home with me as a curiosity, 
 and also many other things used both in my sledge riding 
 and horseback riding, which all speak plainly of the 
 difficulties under which our journey was accomplished. 
 
 After a day of seventeen miles, the horses and 
 riders being thoroughly done up, from struggling in 
 bogs and marshes and scrambling through forests, we 
 halted. Much laborious hunting then took place to 
 •choose our camping ground. The men selected a 
 deserted graveyard, and wishing, I suppose, to find a 
 specially cozy spot for me, they pitched my tent at the 
 foot of an old grave ; but I did not remonstrate, although 
 I feared there was little chance of peaceful sleep. The 
 cuckoo gave us a welcome, and the Siberian nightingale 
 — very unlike the English — entertained us for hours ; 
 
i oo On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 but the neighing- of the horses, as they were bitten by 
 the mosquitoes and large horse-flies, sadly interfered 
 with the musical greeting. All around dense clouds of 
 damp were rising from the sodden soil ; and, when I 
 closed my eyes, visions of home, with its clean, soft 
 beds and snug rooms, sprang up, quickly replaced by 
 the dreadful vision of the outcast lepers, starving, and 
 dying in misery. Of course I had to sleep in my 
 traveling clothes, not even taking off the heavy boots. 
 Having been stilled by heat, tormented by insects, 
 almost saturated by the moisture of the air, and plagued 
 with nightmare, I awoke and had breakfast, which con- 
 sisted of tea and hard bread soaked in it. 
 
 At an early stage of the journey I experienced my 
 first forest thunderstorm ; and the lightning in Siberia, 
 by its great volume of firej seems as if bent on making 
 a rough and ready compensation for the brevity of the 
 Siberian summer. The flashes were awful, the rain 
 came down in a deluge, and we took refuge (very 
 foolishly, I suppose) under some trees. But we soon 
 got soaked, for our waterproofs were on ahead, and 
 there was no time to get them. The hot sun began to 
 shine, and quickly dried us ; and, to my astonishment, 
 no one took cold. 
 
 Before long we had another diversion. We came 
 upon a large number of birds of many kinds, flying 
 about in all directions, and uttering shrill cries and 
 plaintive wails. The Cossack raised his hand to attract 
 
Eagles.'" 101 
 
 our attention ; and then we saw a dead horse ; the 
 tchinovnick whispered, as he came up, " Eagles ! " The 
 Yakuts stealthily got off their horses and crept into the 
 forest ; but the eagle was too sharp for them. After 
 proudly surveying us as if we were inferior mortals, 
 and making a few graceful movements, he flew away, 
 conveying in his claws a pigeon, and dropping what a 
 Yakut found to be a leg of a large rabbit. The man 
 secured the leg as if it had been a great prize, saying, 
 " I can't refuse such a luxury, hunted and caught for 
 me by the king of birds." 
 
 We arrived at one of the few post-houses in the fult 
 blaze of a tropical midday sun, intending to rest for a 
 few hours. Oh, that station house — how it seemed to 
 reek with filth ! A man and a woman kept it ; and 
 their garments were so dirty that they could never have 
 come into contact with soap and water throughout their 
 long existence ! Two calves occupied one end of the 
 room, and the primitive fireplace poured out clouds of 
 smoke. We had tea, dried bread, and a piece of tongue ; 
 and then, in spite of all drawbacks, went fast asleep on 
 one of the wooden benches in the hut. 
 
 More bogs and marshes for several miles ; and then 
 I grew so sleepy and sick that I begged for rest, not- 
 withstanding our position on semi-marshy ground, which 
 had not as yet dried from the heat of the summer sun. 
 I was asleep in five minutes, lying on the damp ground 
 with only a fan to shelter me from the sun. 
 
102 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 On again for a few more miles ; but I began to feel 
 the effects of this sort of traveling — in a word, I felt 
 utterly worn out. It was as much as I could do to 
 hold on to the horse, and I nearly tumbled off several 
 times in the effort. The cramp in my body and lower 
 limbs was indescribable, and I had to discard the 
 cushion under me, because it became soaked through 
 and through with the rain, and rode on the broad, bare 
 wooden saddle. What feelings of relief arose when the 
 time of rest came, and the pitching of tents, and the 
 brewing of tea ! Often I slept quite soundly till morning, 
 awaking to find that the mosquitoes had been hard at 
 work in my slumbers, in spite of veil and gloves, leaving 
 great itching lumps, that turned me sick. Once we 
 saw two calves that had died from exhaustion from the 
 bites of these pests, and the white hair of our poor 
 horses was generally covered with clots of blood, due 
 partly to mosquitoes and partly to prodigious horse- 
 flies. But those lepers — they suffered far more than I 
 suffered, and that was the one thought, added to the 
 strength which God supplied, that kept me from 
 collapsing entirely. 
 
 Sometimes we rested all day, and traveled at night 
 to avoid the intense heat. We passed forests where 
 hundreds of trees had fallen. According to popular 
 superstition the Yakut witches quarreled, and met in 
 the forest to fight out the dispute. But the spirit of 
 the forest became so angry at this conduct that he let 
 
A Yakut Legend. 103 
 
 loose a band of inferior spirits ; and then, in a moment, 
 a tempest began and rushed through the forest, tearing 
 up the trees and causing them to fall in the direction 
 of those disputants who were in the right. But the 
 true meaning of those fallen trees is yet more interesting 
 and singular than the superstitious one. Underneath 
 the upper soil of these forests combustion goes on, 
 beginning in the winter. The thaw of summer and the 
 deluge of rain seem to have little effect upon the fire, 
 for it still works its way unsubdued. When the 
 tempest comes the trees drop by hundreds, having 
 but slight power of resistance. I brought home with 
 me some of this burnt earth, intending to send it to 
 the British Museum, should no specimen be already 
 there. 
 
 My second thunderstorm was far worse than the 
 first. The forest seemed on fire, and the rain dashed in 
 our faces with almost blinding force. My horse plunged 
 and reared, flew first to one side, and then to the other, 
 dragging me among bushes and trees, so that I was in 
 danger of being caught by the branches and hurled to 
 the ground. After this storm one of the horses, carrying 
 stores and other things, sank into a bog nearly to its 
 neck ; and the help of all the men was required to get 
 it out. Those stores ! I may say now that long before 
 the journey was accomplished they were nearly all 
 spoilt or gone, adding to our already accumulating 
 difficulties too numerous to particularize. Hard bread 
 
104 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 became flour, and we had to make a kind of cold 
 pudding with it. 
 
 Soon after the storm we were camping and drinking 
 tea, when I noticed that all the men were eagerly 
 talking together and gesticulating. I asked the tchi- 
 novnick what it all meant, and was told that a large 
 bear was supposed to be in the neighborhood, accord- 
 ing to a report from a post-station close at hand. There 
 was a general priming of firearms, except in my case, 
 for I did not know how to use my revolver, so thought 
 I had better pass it on to someone else, lest I might 
 shoot a man in mistake for a bear. We mounted again 
 and went on. The usual chattering this time was 
 exchanged for a dead silence, this being our first bear 
 experience ; but we grew wiser as we proceeded, and 
 substituted noise for silence. We hurried on as fast as 
 possible to get through the miles of forests and bogs. 
 I found it best not to look about me, because, when I 
 did so, every large stump of a fallen tree took the 
 shape of a bear. When my horse stumbled over the 
 roots of a tree, or shied at some object unseen by me, 
 my heart began to gallop. However, all our preparations 
 were wasted, for the bear remained conspicuous by his 
 absence ; and, when the danger was passed, we all 
 became very brave and talkative. We had a few simple 
 devices for scaring away bears as we rode through the 
 forest later on. The men used to sing and shout their 
 hardest ; bells were placed on some of the horses, and we 
 
Scaring away Bears. 105 
 
 had tin boxes half filled with stones in one hand, which we 
 continually shook, thus making a great, clattering noise. 
 
 I can just imagine how some brave bear-hunter 
 will laugh in his sleeve, as he reads this simple mode 
 of keeping off the ferocious creatures, which had just 
 woke up ravenous from their winter's sleep. But, 
 you see, we were not hunting for bears, but search- 
 ing for lepers, which makes all the difference in the 
 world. At one point some natives told us they had 
 just seen eleven bears ; but happily, although we noticed 
 significant footmarks, we saw none of the fraternity. 
 Sometimes I almost felt I would rather be eaten by 
 bears than endure the terrific clatter and noise made 
 by the cavalcade. 
 
 Some of the natives in these wild parts eat the bark 
 of trees mixed with milk, and now and then fish or 
 birds. Bread, even black bread, to many is an unknown 
 luxury. Milk is often sold in blocks ; fish, meat — in 
 fact everything — is frozen. 
 
 The burial of a native in winter is a long process. 
 The ground has first to be thawed by placing fires upon 
 it for three days and nights. Those who are buried at 
 this season remain frozen always, and their bodies con- 
 tinue in good preservation for hundreds of years. 
 
 At a yourta, where we stopped, quite a grand .dinner 
 was provided for us — some black meal, fried like pan- 
 cakes, sour cream, tea and milk, and a dish of fish 
 caught in the summer and kept frozen ever since. I 
 
106 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 was thankful for a rest in that yourta, notwithstanding 
 the suffocating smoke arising from a burning heap of 
 cow-dung in the middle of it. The aperture at the top 
 for letting out the smoke had been covered, this plan 
 being the only means of protection from the incessant 
 assaults of the mosquitoes and flies ; but I leave you to 
 imagine the effect of this rough remedy on one's eyes, 
 head, and throat. I ached in every bone, and trembled 
 all over, and was too tired to pay any attention to 
 mosquitoes, fleas, bugs, etc. 
 
 We passed several graves on our way, some of them 
 containing, so I was told, the bodies of murdered people. 
 When I looked upon those little mounds, I half wished 
 that I, too, was at rest. There is a point of exhaustion 
 reached at times when one wishes for nothing else than 
 complete unconsciousness. 
 
 Whenever I was not too tired, I made rough entries 
 in my journal before going to sleep, and sometimes 
 suggestions, as they occurred to me, for the leper hospital 
 or colony that I had in my heart. But when constant 
 pain brought on fits of depression, I felt that I should 
 never live to carry out any of my cherished plans. But 
 these were only momentary weaknesses, for the very 
 dangers and difficulties I was going through without 
 serious accident proved so clearly that God's loving arm 
 was around me, shielding and protecting me, and would 
 surely lead me in safety to the end of my work. 
 
 I have not sufficient space to enumerate all the diffi- 
 
Some of My Troubles. 107 
 
 culties and troubles of the first part of the journey as 
 far as Viluisk, but have said enough to give an idea 
 of our experience. Pushing through forests, plunging 
 into bogs, camping at nights, plagued" with mosquitoes, 
 sleeping at times in disgustingly filthy yourtas, which 
 swarmed with vermin of many kinds, myself more than 
 once so wearied and aching that I could not dismount, 
 having to be dragged off the horse, my clothes some- 
 times wet through with rain, with no possibility of 
 taking them off to be dried ; after such experiences, I 
 at last arrived at Viluisk. 
 
 Here the kind Cossack, John Procopieff, who had 
 been our guide, bade us good-by. Before leaving, he 
 presented me with an address of farewell and good 
 wishes. Feeling sure that this quaint, kind-hearted 
 letter will interest my readers, I will here insert a 
 literal translation. At the end of it the writer gives 
 his testimony to the hardships of the road, which are 
 dreaded even by the natives, born and reared in the 
 country, and consequently accustomed to them from 
 their childhood. Also, at the end of this book, will be 
 found a literal translation of an account I wrote in French 
 about the journey, and which the interpreter read and 
 signed as an eye-witness of it all. I thought that, as 
 Yakutsk and Viluisk were so many thousands of miles 
 away from all civilization, and so inaccessible, anyone 
 might easily think my account was perhaps only a 
 traveler's tale, and somewhat exaggerated ; and this 
 
108 On Sledge and Horseback to tlie Siberian Lepers. 
 
 was my reason of having- Russian official documents 
 for every statement made. 
 
 A Memento to Miss Kate Marsden, from the 
 Cossack John PrOcopieff, who Escorted her 
 
 FROM Yakutsk to VlLUISK. 
 
 "VlLUISK, July 3, 1891. 
 
 "You the much honored friend of the suffering 
 poor, in visiting this distant land so far away from the 
 civilized world, with the only aim of helping the un- 
 fortunate lepers, convince the population that our 
 Mother of all Russians, our Most (iracious Empress, has 
 approved you for so great a work, as the best example 
 of self-denial on behalf of others. These are more in 
 need of help than any other subjects of her Imperial 
 Majesty. There can be no doubt about your purposes 
 being noble and holy, when you are protected in your 
 work by our most Gracious Sovereign, Mother of the 
 poor, needy, and suffering. My prayer to the Almighty 
 Creator is that he may grant you the possibility of 
 carrying out your good intentions to the end, and thus 
 better the methods of alleviating the disease of the 
 lepers. 
 
 " Love to one's neighbor is the Creator's holy will ; 
 and, therefore, your work, which is founded on this 
 commandment, is sure to gain its own good end. May 
 1 ask you to accept my greeting, Sister of Mercy, and 
 Mother of the needy. 
 
The Cossack's Letter. 1 09 
 
 "With the earnest wish that you may obtain those 
 better remedies, which would give you the possibility of 
 signalizing your coming here by a glorious attaining of 
 your good purposes, and thus show the population and 
 the world that your self-sacrifice is an example to do 
 good to mankind, even outside your own country, and 
 your enduring such privations as would even frighten a 
 native, accustomed and hardened in childhood to the 
 difficulties encountered in the ways of communication. 
 "John STEPANOFF PrOCOPIEFF, 
 
 11 Retired Cossack of 
 the Yakutsk (Cossack) Town Regiment." 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MISERIES OF THE LEPERS. 
 
 General appearance of Viluisk — One doctor to 70,000 population — 
 Father John Vinokouroff — Committee, and consultation — Look- 
 ing for a site for a hospital — A midnight repast — Site of former 
 hospital — Story of a supposed child-leper — Demoralization of 
 lepers in filthy yourtas — Lepers' garments — Setting off to a leper 
 settlement— The mother and her leper boy in the forest — Marking 
 tracks for the journey — A motley group. 
 
 Viluisk is one of the quietest places I ever visited. 
 It is provided with what are called " roads," which are 
 quite overgrown with grass which seems never to have 
 been cut since the town was first made. The cows and 
 horses turn the roads into their pasture ground. No 
 one is ever in a hurry, and all the people take life easily, 
 just as it comes to them. There are two churches, or 
 rather, one in course of erection, and another which is 
 much in need of repair. The prison is small and con- 
 tains twenty-five inmates. It was feared that a visit 
 from me might rouse a suspicion that I was connected 
 in some way with the political prisoners there, and, if 
 such a suspicion arose, my work for the lepers would at 
 once have come to an end. So 1 thought it wiser not to 
 visit it. There is only one droshky in the place, and that 
 
Viluisk. 
 
 belongs to the town priest. The ispravnick, who is the 
 leading man of the place, has no less than 70,000 people 
 in his circuit, under his control, scattered over a district 
 larger than the whole of France ; his salary, however, is 
 only $500 a year. There is only one doctor, with two 
 assistants, to these 70,000 people, even though, accord- 
 ing to Medical Inspector Smirnoff's report, epidemics 
 and famine frequently break out with scarcely the pos- 
 sibility of alleviation. 
 
 We were met at Viluisk by Father John Vino- 
 kouroff, who is an earnest Christian man, and 
 devoted to the lepers. He frequently goes among 
 them, fearless of contagion, simply to minister to them, 
 and to speak of the Savior's love. From him and from 
 other persons I learned additional details — worse than 
 those contained in the medical inspector's report — of 
 the frightful condition of the lepers in the province. 
 1 was assured that they were thrust by the community 
 into immense forests, with barely anything to cover 
 them, and that, in many cases, they were closely packed 
 in dirty yourtas. 
 
 After meeting several of the leading Yakut people 
 of the town, and consulting about plans and prospects, 
 we visited the site which had been proposed for the 
 much needed and longed for hospital. On account of the 
 intense heat we deferred starting until evening. Father 
 John, \\\Q.feldsher (doctor's assistant), a merchant, and 
 two Cossacks went with me. We had about twenty 
 
ii2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 miles to ride, chiefly through forests] and found on 
 arriving that the place proposed would not do at all 
 for the hospital. 1 think the meeting we held that 
 night, to discuss the pros and cons, was about the most 
 
 singular one I ever attended. It was midnight, but 
 not dark ; and we were all seated on the ground in 
 the tent, partaking of refreshment as we talked. The 
 refreshment consisted of a goose, CUt up into small 
 pieees, which were put into a large plate. We helped 
 ourselves to the tasty morsels with our lingers, for 
 knives and forks hail been forgotten, and only one 
 or two plates had been brought. Much amusement 
 was created, ami, on the whole, the meeting, or 
 midnight picnic, as, I dare say, some people would 
 call it, proved a light and innocent little diversion 
 from the serious business that weighed upon our 
 minds. 
 
 The poor lepers are so looked down upon as the very 
 dregs of the community that even those wishing to be- 
 friend them have fallen into the way of thinking that 
 the worst is good enough for them, Thus when the 
 question rose about materials and workmen, it was 
 very hard for me to impress upon the people the 
 necessity Of having the very best in both cases, not only 
 on account of it paying in the c\\(\ } but because 1 so 
 wanted to make these poor sufferers realize that it was 
 our Lord who was sending help to them, and, therefore, 
 he could only send them the best. 
 
Inhuman Treatment of Lepers. 1 1 3 
 
 The next day L visited a spot where a hospital was 
 built some years agO, but which had to be closed for 
 
 want of funds. There was nothing left except a few 
 
 stumps in the sand to mark where it had stood. The 
 Yakuts who went witli us would not even stand upon 
 the ground, so great is their terror of the awful disease. 
 This site was also unsuitable for the new hospital, the 
 forest having been cut away, and there being no shelter 
 or pasture ground for the cattle. 
 
 While gathering all the information obtainable about 
 the lepers, I learned from an official Russian docu- 
 ment that some people suffering from other diseases 
 were often exiled with the lepers, and compelled to 
 remain with them as such, owing to the mistakes made 
 by the natives when defining leprosy. I was also told of 
 instances of inhuman brutality being practiced in the 
 name of leprosy, in order to obtain some small fortune 
 from a relative. When once anyone becomes a leper 
 all right to property passes away from him. I soon 
 heard a heartrending illustration of this feature of leper 
 life. Information was received at Viluisk, two years 
 before my visit, that a supposed child-leper had been 
 Starved to death. After an investigation, the true facts 
 of the case became known. This child's father and 
 mother died and left him a few cows. His uncle took 
 charge of him and his sister, and at once began to 
 practice upon him unheard-of cruelties. After murder- 
 ing the sister, he conceived the inhuman plan of getting 
 
ii4 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 the community to believe that the boy was a leper, in 
 order to secure the cows. His plot succeeded, and he 
 at once drove off the lad into the depths of one of the 
 densest forests in the district, where, in truth, the only 
 inhabitants were bears. This occurred in the midst of a 
 Siberian winter. 
 
 The uncle had formed a kind of kennel in which 
 the child was to pass the rest of his days. It was 
 made simply of a few sticks thrust into the ground, 
 lightly covered with cow-dung and snow ; and there 
 the child was left to starve, or to be frozen to death. 
 What his sufferings were can scarcely be conceived. It 
 would be impossible for him to find his way back, 
 through this trackless forest, to his uncle's place. 
 Without food, without warmth, with only five hours' 
 daylight out of twenty-four, frightened by the sounds 
 of wild creatures, shaking with cold, and startled by the 
 fierce winds howling in the forest, driven to the verge 
 of madness, this poor child passed at last into God's 
 keeping. 
 
 The rest of the story I quote from the official police 
 report. " I found," says the fe/ds/ier, " a place not 
 large enough for a dog. On the floor there was a little 
 straw, the outside was covered with cow-dung, snow, 
 and earth. Just a few yards in front I noticed a place 
 in the ground freshly moved, and, on scraping away 
 some snow, I found the dead body of the child, not 
 placed in a coffin, but just covered over with earth. It 
 
Herding of Lepers. 115 
 
 was the body of a skeleton ; I opened his stomach and 
 found only a little clay which he had eaten ; the body 
 was perfectly healthy otherwise ; there was no disease, 
 and no sign of leprosy." 
 
 Such a story needs no comment from me. It must 
 surely appeal to the heart of every reader, especially 
 to mothers. To whatever nationality you belong, 
 let me remind you, oh ! gentle mothers (who would 
 rather die a thousand painful deaths than a little 
 one of yours should be subject to such cruelty), 
 that it is for you to prevent, by your unflagging 
 interest, sympathy, help, and prayers, the occurrence 
 of a similar instance of wrong-doing anywhere in the 
 world. 
 
 I must add, in justice to the Russian authorities, that 
 the miscreant — the author of all this suffering — was 
 arrested, after considerable difficulty, and condemned to 
 several years' imprisonment. 
 
 I also learned how the lepers become utterly de- 
 moralized, by the men, women, and children herding 
 together in the same filthy yourta. They live like 
 animals, and with animals, for even the cows dwell 
 in the same hovel. The consequence of this de- 
 moralization found vent not long since by a jealous 
 woman-leper killing a man-leper in a most horrible 
 manner. 
 
 The Yakuts send their cast-off clothing to the 
 lepers ; but these garments, generally fur skins, are 
 
t 1 6 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 not given away until they can be worn no longer 
 by the owners. They are filled with vermin, filthy 
 beyond description, and often nothing but a mass of 
 rags. 
 
 Where the lepers herd together, they themselves 
 bury their dead, and the priest goes once a year to 
 read the prayers over those who have died during the 
 year. 
 
 One of my journeys from Viluisk was to Mastach, 
 where I was to have the first sight of a real leper settle- 
 ment. The first ten miles had to be done in a boat, 
 and the rest of the distance on horseback. In one part 
 of the forest, where every sign of life seemed to have 
 departed, we suddenly came upon a yourta, and near it 
 a fire made up of branches of trees. Being tired we 
 stopped and sat down near the fire to keep off the flies 
 and mosquitoes. In a few minutes we saw something 
 moving among the low shrubs of the forest. Gradually 
 the figure of a woman appeared, who was only half- 
 covered with filthy rags, and who, having heard of our 
 coming, had lain in the shrubs watching for us. Near 
 her was her son, a lad of fourteen. Her tale of woe was 
 soon told. Her son was supposed to be a leper. The 
 head of a neighboring tribe, having decided that he was 
 infected, condemned him to be separated from his 
 mother, and to live alone in the depths of the forest, ten 
 miles away from any other hut or human being. After 
 being in the forest some time, he became so maddened 
 
A Child-Leper. 117 
 
 by the torture and misery of his solitary life, that he 
 begged his mother to allow him to come at night and 
 sleep near her. She consented, and made a small room 
 at the back of her hut, into which he crept every night. 
 But the fear that his shelter should be discovered and 
 the indulgence stopped, kept him in a constant state of 
 alarm. I arranged with the chief that the child and his 
 mother should be protected, and the boy permitted to 
 remain with her. I can never forget the terrified ap- 
 pearance of that boy as I went near to touch him ; he at 
 first flinched, expecting that I meant to hurt him. Even 
 after being at the place for some time, he still shrank 
 when I went up to him. He was made to think himself 
 shunned and dreaded by everyone, and was bound 
 to retire and keep as far away as possible at any- 
 one's approach. The shrinking of that child would 
 have touched the most callous heart ; it spoke such 
 volumes. 
 
 To give a further idea of the difficulties of traveling 
 in these parts, the natives had to cut a path for me, 
 and mark it through swamps by sticking long poles 
 in the ground, and putting a large piece of earth on 
 the top of each. This had been done for 1500 versts.* 
 Where they made a way through the forests, they 
 chipped a large piece off the trees at a distance of 
 about twenty yards. 
 
 We were quite a motley group. There were the 
 *See Viluisk Ispravnick Antonovitch's letter to me (Appendix). 
 
1 1 8 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 ispravnick, four starostas, and about twenty Yakuts, all 
 mounted on horseback, wearing their strange native 
 costume — high shoulder pieces, handkerchiefs of all 
 colors covering their heads and hanging down their 
 backs. The wild, ungroomed, unkempt horses added to 
 the singularity of the scene. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 AMONG THE LEPERS. 
 
 A treacherous forest path — Among the lepers at last — The lame, 
 the halt, and the blind — Distribution of stores — Indescribably 
 filthy condition of the lepers' yourtas — Living with the 
 dead — A healthy girl for eighteen years with the lepers — A 
 Russian's noble offer — Lepers to have new yourtas — Perils of 
 the return journey — Alarms from bears and wild horses — A 
 leap from the river — An unpleasant walk through the forest — 
 A good sleep for a weary one. 
 
 We wended our way through the forest along the 1500- 
 verst track that the Yakuts had so readily and lovingly 
 marked for us ; for they did this work of their own will 
 and without remuneration, though to accomplish it they 
 had to lay aside their summer work in the fields. They 
 knew whither we were bound, and this was the proof of 
 their sympathy for the mission and their pity for the 
 lepers. 
 
 Although a path had been marked out for us, the 
 stumps and roots of trees had been left. We rode over 
 a carpet of half-decayed roots, all interlaced with one 
 another. Now and then my horse sank, not this time 
 in mud, but into holes, well hidden among the roots, 
 getting his feet entangled in such a way that only a 
 Siberian horse could extricate himself. I had to hang 
 
 119 
 
120 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 on to the saddle, my body ready for every lurch the 
 horse might give in freeing himself, and prepared to 
 help him at the right moment. We went through miles 
 and miles of forest like this. 
 
 At last I thought I could discern ahead a large lake, 
 and beyond that two yourtas. My instinct was true to 
 me ; and the peculiar thrill which passed through my 
 whole frame meant that, at last, after all those months 
 of traveling I had found, thank God ! the poor creatures 
 whom I had come to help. A little more zigzag riding 
 along the tedious path, and then I suddenly looked up 
 and saw before me the two yourtas and a little crowd 
 of people. Some of the people came limping, and some 
 leaning on sticks, to catch the first glimpse of us, their 
 faces and limbs distorted by the dreadful ravages of the 
 disease. One poor creature could only crawl by the 
 help of a stool, and all had the same indescribably 
 hopeless expression of the eyes which indicates the 
 disease. I scrambled off the horse, and went quickly 
 among the little crowd of the lame, the halt, and the 
 blind. Some were standing, some were kneeling, and 
 some crouching on the ground, and all with eager faces 
 turned toward me. They told me afterward that they 
 believed God had sent me ; and, my friends, if you 
 could all have been there, you would no longer wonder 
 at my having devoted body and soul to this work. 
 
 I at once ordered the things to be unpacked, and had 
 them collected on the grass. A prayer of thanksgiving 
 
Lepers Praying for the Empress. 
 
 was then offered by the priest, and, next, a prayer for 
 Her Imperial Majesty the Empress, in which the poor 
 people heartily joined. As we distributed the gifts, 
 some of the distorted faces half beamed with delight, 
 while others changed from a look of fear to one of 
 confidence and rest. Surely such a scene was worth a 
 long journey and^many hardships and perils. 
 
 They seemed to know that help was coming, and that 
 although they might not live to enjoy it, other afflicted 
 ones would. The poor fingerless hands, and all the sad 
 contortions with the stamp of hopeless misery on every 
 face — even where a flickering smile had appeared — 
 made me shudder. 
 
 The condition of the yourtas is best described by my 
 quoting the documents of two officials, who were sent 
 there by the government. 
 
 The medical inspector, Mr. Smirnoff, says in his 
 report* to the Governor : "One is struck at the sight 
 of the smallness of these nomad huts in which they 
 dwell. Light hardly penetrates, and the atmosphere is 
 so infected by the conglomeration of the lepers and the 
 exhalations of rotten fish that one is quite suffocated 
 on entering them. These unfortunates have neither 
 beds nor linen ; their clothing consists only of sheep 
 and cow skins, all in rags, and it is under these con- 
 ditions, without any change, that they are obliged to 
 live tens of years, till at last death releases them from 
 their sufferings. Not far from these huts one perceives 
 * See Appendix. 
 
122 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 graves with crosses on them, indicating the places 
 where the lepers bury each other. The door is so small 
 that one is obliged to bend to be able to enter. The 
 hut is very low, and hardly any light enters, and the 
 atmosphere is so foul that even the fire which is con- 
 tinually burning in the fireplace cannot purify it. The 
 filth of this hovel is disgusting ; the dirty table and the 
 few benches covered with filthy skins, in lieu of beds, 
 comprise everything in the place. I found six men and 
 three women huddled together in this infected hovel. 
 It is inexplicable how so many people get to be lodged 
 in so small and low a hut. The clothes of these lepers 
 consisted of skins (of cows) all in rags and holes." 
 
 The tchinovnick for special services, Mr. Shachour- 
 dine, in his report, contained in Protocol No. 3, states: 
 " The interior of these yourtas is not known to me, as, 
 however much I wanted to get acquainted with the 
 interior of the said huts, I could not get into them, on 
 account of the fearful stench, similar to that coming 
 from a dead body ; which was due not only to the lepers 
 themselves, but also to the food that they ate, consisting 
 chiefly of rotten fish." 
 
 The yourtas, swarming with vermin of "many kinds, 
 were made out of the trunks of trees, fastened with 
 wooden nails, and covered with cow-dung, of which the 
 floor also consisted, mixed with earth. The windows 
 were only one foot square, and were covered with calico. 
 The lepers have no beds. Round the inside of the 
 
Living with the Dead. 123 
 
 yourtas were placed trunks of trees, upon which were 
 fixed pieces or planks of wood. On these the lepers 
 slept, closely packed as near to each other as possible, 
 the feet of one to the head of the next, Men, women, 
 and children were all mixed together ; calves were also 
 kept there in the summer, and cows during the winter. 
 There was no kind of sanitary arrangements ; and, 
 sometimes, in the depth of the winter, none of the 
 inmates venture outside for days together. 
 
 In this place the lepers eat, cook, sleep, live, and die. 
 If one of them dies, the body is kept in the hovel for 
 three days. The smoke fills the place — stifling both the 
 lepers and the cattle. Not long ago they had small- 
 pox among them, and four of their number died and 
 the dead bodies were kept in the same yourta for three 
 days. The dead are buried only a few yards from the 
 dreadful abode, so that the lepers cannot pass their 
 threshold without being reminded of the end daily 
 drawing nearer. 
 
 This is but a faint description of what I saw ; I 
 have exaggerated nothing, and all I have said can be 
 confirmed by the ispravnick or the priest, who live 
 in Viluisk. 
 
 Among the lepers was a girl of eighteen, who was 
 perfectly free from the disease. Her mother, being 
 infected, was sent off to the yourta, and, before long, 
 gave birth to this girl, who had thus been here all her 
 life — for the Yakuts would never allow her to go 
 
124 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 among them. She pitifully implored us to take 
 compassion on her, and remove her from this horrible 
 place. We held a consultation, and the ispravnick 
 said he was resolved to break the spell of terror that 
 ruled among the Yakuts, and then nobly promised to 
 take the girl into his own house as a servant. I scarcely 
 knew how to express my admiration of this splendid 
 conduct. All who try to appreciate the full significance 
 and after-effects of the brave chief's decision will not 
 hesitate to class him among those whose hearts have 
 the true ring of heroism, and of that charity which is the 
 essence of the Christian religion. 
 
 Our return journey was a rather eventful one. My 
 horse became restive, pricked up his ears, shivered, and 
 stood still. It was not without much coaxing that I 
 could get him to move. Then other horses became 
 restive, but we managed to go on through the silent 
 forest. The tchinovnick rode forward and reported that 
 he saw a bear crouching in an ominous manner. We 
 were badly armed, there being only two guns and one 
 revolver among all the thirty of us. We went on 
 quickly for some distance and then encamped. I was 
 lying down in my tent trying to sleep, but, in reality, 
 wide awake planning the hospital, when suddenly I 
 heard a tremendous stampede — a crashing of branches, 
 horses neighing, and, altogether, a great clamor. I 
 fully expected to see that bear march boldly into my 
 tent ; but he had been content, it seemed, with frighten- 
 
Dangers from Horses. 125 
 
 ing the horses. We started again, and everyone was 
 on the alert, feeling sure that the bear would follow us ; 
 the cunning fellow might spring from behind a tree at 
 any moment, and the stories I had heard of the doings 
 of these creatures in the woods were not calculated at 
 that moment to fortify one's nerves. 
 
 Crash, crash, crash ! The horses reared — I got off 
 mine, preferring to meet the bear to being dragged 
 through the forest on a mad horse and dashed against 
 the trees. Evidently the bear was somewhere at hand, 
 for one of the baggage horses had flown into the thick 
 of the forest, and was jammed between two trees, caus- 
 ing all this commotion. A little later, while we were 
 resting, another of the baggage horses took fright. 
 Its tail was tied to the bridle of another horse, and it 
 dragged its neighbor round and round an open space, 
 the baggage bumping against its hind legs. Then all 
 the other horses got restive, and in another moment 
 would have torn away into the forest had we not quickly 
 quieted them. These untamed Siberian steeds often 
 proved a source of danger to our limbs and lives. 
 
 Other alarming incidents occurred, but I will only 
 mention one more. We had to row about twenty versts 
 up the stream, but were unable to make headway against 
 the rapid current. A terrific storm began, and as the 
 violent gusts tore across the water, they forced the boat 
 against overhanging trees, and sometimes against the 
 high bank. And while we were in this predicament 
 
126 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 the men shouted, yelled, and screamed as if they were 
 a lot of madmen. The ispravnick managed to get on 
 shore ; and I began to think it was high time I did 
 something for self-preservation, for a tumble into that 
 river would have been the end of me. So I quietly 
 watched for an opportunity, and then jumped ashore. 
 The tchinovnick followed, and then we set off to walk 
 ten miles through the forest, one, it was said, in which 
 no human foot had ever been before. Having been 
 without sleep for twenty-four hours, and not having 
 broken my fast for twelve, I was not in exactly good 
 training for that pedestrian feat. I got on tolerably 
 well for about three miles, and then simply dropped. 
 Again I struggled on and again dropped. My very 
 indulgent and patient escort were getting a little tired 
 of this sort of thing, so some of t them went forward and 
 sent back two or three soldiers to help me. These sturdy 
 fellows had to drag me into Viluisk, while pain seemed 
 to rack every atom of my body. Then I went to bed 
 and slept for twenty-four hours. That rest was, indeed, 
 a godsend, for we had to start in two days on a journey 
 of a thousand versts. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THROUGH FIRE. 
 
 A girl's gratitude — A leper's woeful story — A weird scene — Choosing 
 the site for a hospital — Pathetic appeal of the priest — Pushing 
 through the forest — Another leper settlement, and its dreadful 
 condition — Sending off lepers into the forest on bullocks — 
 A midnight march — Naked lepers — Stumbling onward — Forest 
 solitude and the screech of owls — A devoted husband — Child- 
 lepers — A startling spectacle — The earth in flames — Picking our 
 way through fire — A mad horse and a narrow escape — In God's 
 hands — My little collie guides me — Exhausted. 
 
 We left Viluisk on the evening of July 27 (August 8) 
 for our next journey of about 1000 versts. Among the 
 crowd who came to see us off was the girl from the leper 
 settlement whom the ispravnick had taken into his house, 
 and who, with her new clothes and beaming face, looked 
 a different creature altogether. In spite of my attempts 
 to stop her she would insist on prostrating herself in 
 her native fashion, so unbounded was her gratitude. 
 
 We had to travel by boat for the first few miles of the 
 journey ; and at midnight we landed for a rest in a kind 
 of wild arbor, where a number of men were waiting for 
 us round a log fire ; behind us was the dense, impene- 
 trable forest, silent as death. At some distance was 
 another fire ; and, on my asking presently why there 
 
128 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 were two fires, the men told me in an awe-struck whisper 
 that a solitary leper, having heard that I was passing, 
 had come to beg for help, and had waited patiently. 
 This second fire was kindled for him, as the men were 
 too frightened to allow him to share theirs, and had not 
 ventured to go near him. 
 
 I got up and hurried to the poor fellow, who actually 
 cried when he saw I was not afraid of him ; and, kneel- 
 ing, touched the ground with his forehead to express 
 his gratitude. These prostrations, expressing their grat- 
 itude, were a sore trial to me ; but do what I would, I 
 could not prevent them, being unable to speak to the 
 people in their own language ; and at last I was obliged 
 to submit, as I was told it was a native custom, and by 
 objecting to it I would wound the feelings of the people. 
 Then he told his sad story, the priest acting as inter- 
 preter. He was dressed in filthy rags, and had lived 
 for years, alone and despised, in a dense forest. It was 
 indeed a touching scene ; there he stood, half-frightened, 
 despair depicted on his face, his rags scarcely holding 
 together, the flickering fire giving him a weird appear- 
 ance, and the branches of the trees in the background 
 forming a slight shelter. We gave him what help we 
 had brought, and comforted him by the prospect of a 
 •colony, where proper care would be taken of him, and 
 where he would be fed, clothed, and kept warm ; and 
 we asked him to pray that the Lord would soon grant 
 ns the means to erect it. On returning to the men 
 
A Pathetic Appeal. 129 
 
 they shrank away from me as if I, too, were con- 
 taminated. 
 
 We rowed thirty miles farther down the river, and 
 then stopped to choose the site of the future leper 
 colony. It is away from the villages, but within easy 
 reach of Viluisk, so that the authorities will have 
 immediate supervision of the hospital. 
 
 Another row brought us to the place where we were 
 to mount our horses to reach Sredni Viluisk, a distance 
 of about fifty miles, and where all the heads of the district 
 were drawn up ready to receive us. The priest got on 
 shore first, and in a few minutes I followed. These few 
 minutes were rather lengthy, I am afraid, for the bank 
 was steep and high, and climb up it alone I could not ; 
 so the Cossack at the top had to get hold of my hands 
 and pull, while the one in the boat helped up my feet, 
 and thus, with their united help and my own exertions, 
 I was landed. 
 
 Here occurred a little scene for which I was quite 
 unprepared. The good priest was so overcome with 
 gratitude at the efforts being made to relieve the lepers 
 that he fell on his knees before me, tears running down 
 his face, saying that it was God who had sent me to 
 help these poor sufferers, who had been burdening his 
 loving heart for so many years. He implored me to use 
 every effort so as to bring my plans to a speedy result, 
 promising to pray for blessing for each step of my way, 
 for, truly, I had come to help the most miserable of 
 
13° On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 human beings. Before this I had heard of his devotion 
 to the lepers, but now I fully realized what a deep God- 
 given love he had for them. My prayer went up to the 
 Healer and Comforter of all afflicted, to strengthen and 
 protect this earnest and simple servant of His in his 
 devoted ministrations, begun and continued to His glory, 
 and His only. 
 
 While resting under a very picturesque shelter 
 made of branches of trees stuck into the ground, and 
 which had been prepared for us by the Yakuts, we 
 discussed the plans for the hospital and the needs of 
 the lepers. Then we mounted and rode off, twenty- 
 five men and myself, with thirty horses, some of them 
 carrying baggage. 
 
 We pushed our way through the usual dense forest, 
 along the track which had been cleared for me by the 
 kind natives, as I have already mentioned, and which 
 otherwise would have been impassable. Halting at the 
 leper settlement of Hatignach, a scene met my eyes 
 too horrible to describe fully. Twelve men, women, 
 and children, scantily and filthily clothed, were huddled 
 together in two small yourtas, covered with vermin. 
 The stench was dreadful ; one man was dying, two men 
 had lost their toes and half of their feet ; they had tied 
 boards from their knees to the ground, so that by this 
 help they could contrive to drag themselves along. 
 One man had no fingers ; and the poor stumps, raised 
 to make the sign of the cross x were enough to bring 
 
A Plea for the Hospital. 131 
 
 tears to the eyes of the most callous. On my approach- 
 ing them they all crouched on the ground, as if almost 
 terror-struck at the very idea of anyone coming near to 
 help them. I gave them all the help possible, and then, 
 with a smile on their faces, they looked and pointed 
 heavenward, trying to make me understand that they 
 were praying for blessings on those who had considered 
 their wants. In some cases the fur of the tattered 
 clothes had stuck to the sores, thus causing intense 
 irritation. 
 
 During the eight or nine months of winter, these 
 people huddle together with the cattle as closely as pos- 
 sible in their dreadful hovels, in order to keep warm. 
 They, too, had been attacked by typhus fever and small- 
 pox. I said farewell, and, mounting my horse, heard 
 angry words behind me. Turning round I found that 
 some of the lepers wanted to come near to speak to me, 
 and the Yakuts were driving them away in horror, 
 fearful lest they might catch the disease. Of course, 
 I quickly went to them. They pleaded hard that the 
 hospitals might be built speedily, and that they might 
 be supplied with bread, because the food brought to 
 them was generally putrid. 
 
 Then we set off for the next settlement, which was 
 150 miles farther on. We traveled all night — in 
 fact, the greater part of this journey had to be done 
 by night on account of the intense heat during the 
 day, and the incessant attacks of large horse-flies, as 
 
132 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 well as the myriads of other insects. We halted at 
 Sredni Viluisk, which, although marked as a town on 
 the map, is only a collection of a few dirty yourtas and 
 one government office. A man suspected of being a 
 leper was brought to me, and, after examination by the 
 doctor, the suspicion was soon confirmed. It was 
 arranged that he should have a new yourta, and live at 
 a leper settlement about fifty miles away. 
 
 " How is he to get there ? " I asked ; for I saw how 
 deformed he was, and that parts of his feet and hands 
 were gone. 
 
 " He is to walk," was the reply. 
 
 This walking meant that the poor fellow would have to 
 crawl or drag himself along fifty miles of forest. At 
 last, it was suggested that he should be tied to the back 
 of a bull, and the bull to be led by a boy (the man's 
 brother) with a long cord. After a deal of persuasion I 
 got the people to provide a sledge, with plenty of straw, 
 and a bull to draw it, as there were no horses to spare. 
 This is only a typical example of how some of the 
 lepers, almost unable to walk at all, are left to get as 
 best they can into the far-off forest. If a woman be- 
 comes a leper, she, too, is sometimes placed or tied on a 
 bare-backed bull, which is led by a man with a long 
 rope. If the animal sinks into the marshes or bogs, it 
 must struggle out without help, and if the woman falls 
 off, the man would rather die than go and touch her in 
 giving assistance. Such sufferings as these, I try to 
 
Living with a Madman. 133 
 
 refer to calmly ; but it is hard to do so. The reader 
 can imagine, without my help, all that such outcasts 
 are compelled to endure. What a difference the bare- 
 backed bullock presents to the merciful contrivances for 
 removing the wounded from the battle-field and the 
 victims of accidents in our streets ! 
 
 Another dreadful instance of what they had to en- 
 dure was related to me. A leper woman was placed in 
 a yourta with another leper, a man, who, soon after 
 her arrival, became insane. For four years this poor 
 woman had to live with a madman in the depth of the 
 forest, away from every human being, never sure from 
 one hour to another of her life. Just picture the con- 
 stant dread she must have lived in — at night, hardly 
 daring to close her eyes to sleep ; during the day, ever 
 on the watch for each movement the man made, 
 knowing well that, should he attack her, there was no 
 hand to protect her, no ear to attend to her cries for 
 help — for miles and miles around nothing but the dense 
 forest to echo back her voice. As, bit by bit, this 
 information was translated to me, a tremor went through 
 my whole being ; while, deep in my heart, I thanked 
 God for sending me here to help these helpless, forsaken 
 ones. 
 
 Our midnight march from Sredni Viluisk was beset 
 with dangers. We heard that bears were in the neigh- 
 borhood, and the horses kept on starting, and then 
 darting to one side and the other. The trees loomed 
 
134 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 above us against the sky, the rotten roots and holes were 
 under our feet, and on every hand was a dead silence. 
 
 After a long ride we came to nine more lepers, whose 
 condition was worse than any I had seen. Two women, 
 one man of about forty, and two children were naked, 
 having no clothes whatever ; and, with the exception of 
 a few rags, they are in the same state in the winter. 
 During the months of biting frost, all the covering they 
 had was hay and rags. As I sat there among them, the 
 flies were tormenting their festering wounds, and some 
 of the outcasts writhed in agony. I do not wonder at 
 being told that it is impossible to reach the lepers, for 
 this was another settlement hidden away in the forest, 
 with no path or communication of any kind to other 
 places. There were traces of a bear here, and I began 
 to wonder why some of these lepers did not, in their 
 desperation, throw themselves in the way of the bears, 
 and so end their miseries. 
 
 As we again mounted our horses, the Yakuts, who 
 had kept far off from the lepers for fear of contagion, 
 hurried on the animals in order to get away from the 
 place as quickly as possible. As we rode forward in the 
 darkness, the faces of those poor creatures haunted me ; 
 while now and then an owl hooted, or a savage rat 
 darted at my horse, making him plunge and struggle. 
 We kept stumbling into holes and over roots of trees, 
 and it was as much as a tired, aching woman could do 
 to keep her seat. Then two of the horses took fright : 
 
A Noble Husband. 135 
 
 and, all the horses being tied in single file by tail and 
 bridle, the whole cavalcade rushed along full tilt into the 
 darkness, and we were simply at God's mercy. When 
 we went steadily again and silence reigned around, how 
 my full heart was lifted up to God ! When going at 
 full speed, the horses would suddenly stop ; then a wild 
 goose would screech and flutter his wings, and on we 
 would tear again. 
 
 At another place I found a yourta, too small even for 
 one man, containing a man, two women, and a child. 
 One of the women had been afflicted with leprosy in 
 all its worst aspects for years ; she was almost naked, 
 having only a dirty strip of leather over her. By her 
 side was her husband, who, although free from leprosy, 
 nobly determined to share his wife's exile. Her child, 
 too, preferred to accompany her mother rather than 
 remain with the tribe. Neither husband nor child will 
 ever be allowed to enter the community again. Close 
 by was a woman who had just been confined. And 
 there were also two children here, born of lepers, born 
 to live among lepers, and doomed most likely to be- 
 come lepers, either from contagion or hereditary taint. 
 Surely some definite steps ought to be taken to alter 
 this state of things. According to Medical Inspector 
 Smirnoff's report,* who had visited the lepers three 
 months before me, he had ordered the separation of the 
 men and women to be carried out. But, however, when 
 I was there I found them all together again. 
 * See Appendix. 
 
136 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 The next night, as we proceeded on our journey, a 
 scene occurred which will never be effaced from my 
 memory. A more graphic pen than mine is required 
 to paint it in all its weird and alarming details. 
 We had been traveling for about twenty miles since 
 leaving the last place when I noticed how strangely 
 the horses' tread sounded — just as if they were walking 
 over a tunnel, with only a shallow roof to it. The 
 tchinovnick explained that this was one of the places 
 where the earth was in a state of combustion. The 
 fire begins a long way below the surface, and burns 
 slowly — still more slowly when there is no vent for the 
 smoke. The burnt earth creates great hollows, and 
 there is always danger of a horse breaking the crust 
 and sinking into the fire. I thought little more about 
 the matter except speculating on the causes of this 
 alarming phenomenon in the bosom of Mother Earth. 
 
 Night came on, and all was gloom around us. By 
 and by I thought I saw in the distance several lights ; 
 going on a little farther the lights became a glare, and 
 then my horse grew restive and almost unmanageable. 
 We emerged from the forest and stood in an open space. 
 What an unearthly scene met my eyes ! The whole 
 earth, not the forest, for miles around seemed full of 
 little flickers of fire ; flames of many colors — red, 
 gold, blue, and purple — darted up on every hand, some 
 forked and jagged, some straight as a javelin, rising 
 here and there above the earth, and, in places, seeming 
 
Riding through Fire. 137 
 
 to lick the dust, and then, having gained fresh energy, 
 springing as high as the others. A full description, 
 signed by the tchinovnick, who acted as interpreter 
 during the journey, of this phenomenon is given at the 
 end of the book. Coming, full of nervous apprehension, 
 out of the dark forest on to such a scene I half fancied 
 that those flames were endowed with life. The lurid 
 spectacle looked like a high carnival of curious creatures, 
 let loose for a time from their prison house, careering 
 about in fantastic shapes. Blinding clouds of smoke 
 every now and then swept into our eyes, and the hot, 
 Stirling air almost choked us. 
 
 We had to go through the fire ; there was no escaping 
 it, unless we chose to turn back. After looking on, 
 aghast, for some time, and trying to prevent our terrified 
 horses from bolting, we moved slowly forward, picking 
 our way as best we could in and out of the flames. I 
 prepared, as well as I was able, for any emergency, 
 slipping my feet to the edge of the stirrups in order to 
 release myself in case of an accident, then tightened the 
 reins, and followed my guide. I never expected to get 
 through that fire alive ; but death was better than 
 turning back. Slowly and cautiously we picked our 
 way, while the horses snorted, hesitated, and trembled. 
 
 All went well for about three miles. Suddenly we 
 heard an ominous, crashing noise behind and then a 
 loud cry, which was instantly taken up by the whole 
 cavalcade. We stopped our horses and waited for the 
 
138 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 worst to happen. In a few minutes there came, dashing 
 at full speed into the midst of us, a poor frightened 
 baggage horse, which, stepping into a hole, had taken 
 fright and darted away, the baggage boxes getting loose 
 and thumping against its hind legs as it tore along. It 
 made straight for us, and, in another moment, would 
 have thrown me and my horse to the ground had not 
 the tchinovnick deftly turned the mad creature aside. 
 Then the poor thing bounded on and went far ahead, 
 and we heard the boxes crashing against half-burnt 
 trunks of trees. All our horses were straining at the 
 rein, and seemed bent on starting off wildly after the 
 one that had disappeared ; but we gradually soothed 
 them, and then pushed on. The smoke was still 
 blinding us ; and, not being able to see in the least 
 where I was going, I loosened the reins and just let 
 the horse go where he liked. 
 
 Soon we entered a splendid forest ; and, coming 
 from vivid light into darkness, the darkness to me was 
 blackness indeed. My horse kept stumbling, and first 
 one branch and then another hit me in the face. I 
 again dropped the reins on to the horse's neck, put up 
 my arms to shield my face, and left all in God's hands. 
 As my eyes grew accustomed to the pitchy gloom I 
 could see the white tip of my dog's tail. I quite forgot 
 to mention this faithful friend before. He was an 
 ordinary sized black collie, with a white tail. I knew 
 that he always followed the Yakut guide who rode in 
 
Exhaustion. 139 
 
 front of me ; so I kept my eyes fixed on that little bit 
 of white, and felt that, as long as I could see it, I was 
 tolerably safe ; if the white spot disappeared I knew 
 we were near a hole, and so must be prepared for an 
 accident. 
 
 Complete physical exhaustion came at last. I had 
 never been on a horse before, except once, for a short 
 time, several years ago ; and after all these weeks of 
 riding on a hard saddle, with little sleep and food, and 
 all the perils and alarms of the journey — well, it was 
 time, perhaps the reader may think, that I did get ex- 
 hausted. So I had to rest, and I began to feel symp- 
 toms of an internal malady, which at first alarmed me ; 
 and I thought I might have to die there in my little tent, 
 and leave, only just commenced, all the work I wanted 
 to do. But the Master's presence cheered me and 
 banished all depression. A day's rest, and then I 
 started again, although in great pain, which, unfortu- 
 nately, lasted till the end of the journey. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FINISH OF THE 2000 MILES* RIDE. 
 
 A sagacious dog — A leper for twenty years ! — Burial of lepers — 
 Father John on the condition of the lepers — The doctor thinks I 
 need attention — Another faithful dog — A leper's appeal — A night 
 of horrors — Baptism of a leper's child — The Medical Inspector's 
 Report — The Holy Communion — My last " spin," and how I 
 re-entered Yakutsk — Farewell to my escort — Letter of the isprav- 
 nick — The bishop's kindness again — A valuable letter — Journey 
 up the Lena — Arrival at Irkutsk. 
 
 In one place where there were several lepers I 
 found that, when starving and pushed by hunger, they 
 would leave their yourtas, the weather permitting, 
 and drag themselves to the nearest village and there 
 stand crying out until the people brought them food. 
 An instance was related to me of a leper woman 
 who repeatedly made her way as well as she could 
 to the village to steal food. The starosta heard of 
 the matter, and, wishing to put an end to the visits, 
 ordered all her clothes to be taken from her, so as to 
 prevent her leaving the yourta. But the pangs of 
 hunger were too strong ; and one day the unfortunate 
 woman ventured out clothesless, despite the winter, 
 and was found, some days after, lying frozen under a 
 tree. x 
 
 140 
 
An Intelligent Dog. 141 
 
 Here, too, smallpox had been making ravages ; and 
 another trouble of these outcasts arose from bear-alarms. 
 The crashing of these creatures through the forest made 
 the lepers shudder, dreading an attack and swift de- 
 struction. They had an intelligent dog, however, who 
 seemed to know how to manage the bears. On their 
 approach to the yourta, he used to dance and bark, 
 and, backing into the forest all the time, gradually lured 
 the beasts on and on for miles, and then, suddenly 
 leaving them, would return home by another route. 
 This story of the dog's instinct and fidelity was told 
 me by the lepers themselves, and I have no reason to 
 doubt its truth. I was struck by the patient endur- 
 ance of these lepers. They had no word of complaint 
 to make against anyone, but simply prayed that help 
 might be sent quickly. 
 
 At another place I came to a small yourta, in which 
 were two women lepers, and one child, with the cattle in 
 the yourta. As I stepped into the darkness the stench 
 took away my breath, although I was now so accustomed 
 to the horrible condition of yourtas, and I had to move 
 back into the fresh air.* One of the women had lived 
 here for twenty years ! Her feet had rotted up to the 
 ankles, and all she wore was a filthy fur jacket. She 
 told me a fearful story of what happened in cases of 
 death. I shrink from repeating it ; but my account 
 would be far from complete and accurate if I omitted 
 * See Appendix (Protocol No. 3), p. 208. 
 
142 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 some of the most harrowing features in my experience 
 among the lepers. At the same time, I beg the reader 
 to understand that some of the worst details are too 
 repulsive to write about, even for the sake of increas- 
 ing sympathy on behalf of the lepers. Let it also be 
 understood that all I have said has been verified by 
 others ; and, whenever space will permit, I intend quot- 
 ing from signed documents. 
 
 This woman said that, when one of her miserable 
 companions died, the Yakuts sent a coffin on a sledge, 
 and left it at some distance from the yourta. In her 
 diseased and mutilated state she had to drag it into the 
 yourta and prepare it for the reception of her com- 
 panion, whose corpse remained in the yourta for three 
 days. Then she had to get the body into the coffin 
 without any assistance, drag the load across the floor, 
 lift it over the threshold, and push or drag it away, 
 getting it somehow into the sledge ; and there she left 
 it for the Yakuts to bury. 
 
 Dr. Smirnoff, in his official report to the Governor 
 of Yakutsk (the greater part of which is given in 
 the Appendix) of his visit to the lepers in the begin- 
 ning of 1 89 1, states that in some settlements the lepers 
 have to bury each other, the graves being marked with 
 crosses. 
 
 Here I may quote from the paper signed and pre- 
 pared by Father John of Viluisk on the condition of 
 the lepers : " On the whole of the earth you will not 
 
" Leper" a " Swear Word." 143 
 
 find men in so miserable a condition as the Sredni 
 Viluisk lepers. The name ' leper ' is used by the 
 Russian tchinovnicks who are sent for service into the 
 Viluisk circuit as a ' swear ' word. An illustration of 
 the intense dread the natives have of leprosy is their 
 conviction that it originates from the devil. ' Smallpox, 
 measles, scarlet fever,' they say, ' were appointed by 
 God ; but leprosy was sent by the devil. ' " Hence 
 their belief that all lepers are possessed. Father John 
 also makes a number of other statements ; but as they 
 would be simply a repetition of what I have already 
 written, I abstain from quoting further. Extracts from 
 his statement will be found in the Appendix, and they 
 corroborate many of the details which I have given in 
 this book. 
 
 Having resumed our journey through the forest, I 
 became so iil after a few miles that we had to halt. I 
 doubt if any of my readers have ever experienced such 
 utter exhaustion of both mind and body ; my hands 
 literally refused to hold the reins. There lay the reins - r 
 I knew they had to be held, but I was totally incapable 
 of communicating any power to my hands. Added to 
 this, I was suffering acute pain from an interior abscess, 
 which the constant riding had formed. Seeing me 
 sway from side to side in the saddle, the tchinovnick 
 came up and stopped the cavalcade. The men lifted me 
 off the horse, laid me on a rug on the ground, and in a 
 moment I fell into a deep sleep. I awoke in a half- 
 
144 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 dazed condition, found all the horses tied to the trees, 
 the tchinovnick driving off the mosquitoes from me with 
 a horse-hair brush, and the ispravnick and the feldsher 
 looking at me anxiously. They began to think that 
 something ought to be done for me, that, in fact, I was too 
 ill to go any further. But I told them that they were 
 giving way to unnecessary alarm, for I had asked the 
 Lord to let me finish this work, and was trusting him 
 to strengthen me step by step ; so I persuaded them 
 to lift me on to my horse, and was soon on the move 
 again. 
 
 After a ride of some twenty miles, we came across a 
 lonely leper, who had lived in the forest for six years, 
 with no companion but his faithful dog. This dog, like 
 the other I mentioned, was his master's guardian against 
 the bears. He seemed to smell the bears in the distance, 
 and then dashed off to tease and tantalize them, leading 
 them away and away, and then returning to his master 
 voiceless and half dead. No word of murmur came from 
 this man's lips ; he only appealed that the hospital 
 might be quickly built ; and we left him with his eyes 
 lifted up to Heaven in prayer. 
 
 A few miles further we came to a forest which had 
 been recently burnt. Its blackness stood out in sharp 
 contrast to an adjacent vast forest of sand. We stayed 
 for the night close to the forest ; and I think, as the 
 tchinovnick also thought, that, in its horror, that night 
 came next to the night of burning earth. Screeching 
 
A Baptism. 145 
 
 owls and wild ducks, eagles keeping the small birds in a 
 state of terror, the wind whistling through the trees, and 
 the branches cracking and crashing as they fell — all this 
 clamor drove sleep from our weary eyes. 
 
 Again we started and had to endure forest troubles 
 and swamp troubles similar to those already, narrated. 
 At the next leper settlement the soldier had consider- 
 able difficulty in getting me off my horse. I was suffer- 
 ing from cramp, and therefore almost powerless. A 
 little rest brought me round again partly, and then I 
 went forward to see the lepers. A man and a woman 
 here could only crawl on their knees, and they had but 
 a little girl of six to help them. They were not married, 
 and the child was not baptized. After a deal of 
 persuasion we got the priest (not Father John) to 
 baptize the girl, and she was afterward removed to 
 a distant place in order to be out of the reach of 
 contagion. 
 
 Farther on there was a woman-leper who had lived 
 quite alone for six years, dying by inches, never hearing 
 a human voice except when the man who brought food 
 shouted to her a hundred yards from the yourta. She 
 had to crawl through the deep snow to fetch the food, 
 and was obliged to make several journeys, being able 
 to carry only one thing at a time. 
 
 The medical inspector states in his report, already 
 referred to, that the authorities, and the inhabitants in 
 general, endeavor to settle the lepers in so-called 
 
146 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 " dead " places, " unfit for the use of the healthy, and at 
 the same time as far away as possible from all other 
 habitations, roads, tracts, and footpaths." He further 
 says that " food is provided for these unfortunate people 
 by the community once or twice a week, and consists of 
 meat, fish (in various forms), often sour and rotten, tea, 
 and milk. It sometimes happens, that the food is not 
 brought to them at the appointed time, and the patients 
 have to suffer from hunger for two or three days ; but 
 these cases are rare." 
 
 My catalogue of leper miseries, as seen with my own 
 eyes, must now come to an end iest I weary the reader 
 with scenes which, in most of their dreadful aspects, 
 greatly resemble each other. This round of visits ended 
 appropriately, as I thought, by the priest administering 
 the Holy Communion to three or four lepers at one of 
 the yourtas. Being a Protestant I could take no active 
 part in the service, and yet I felt that the living presence 
 of our Lord was among us, for we were gathered to- 
 gether in his name, and he seemed to say, as the poor, 
 weary, dim eyes of the lepers brightened for a moment, 
 " Inasmuch as ye did it unto the least of these, ye did it 
 unto me." 
 
 During the rest of the return journey to Yakutsk we 
 rode about seventy miles a day, with little food and 
 sleep ; at times we were in a dense forest, and seemed 
 to lose our bearings. The feldsher proved a friend in 
 need ; he provided us with fresji food by shooting the 
 
Powerless. 147 
 
 wild ducks we came across, which were very acceptable, 
 for we often had only dried black bread left, two months' 
 old. As to water, small, stagnant lakes were our only 
 resource. The color was dark brown, and the odor 
 abominable ; and yet we hailed it as a friend, and drank 
 it as only thirsty people can drink. How it was we 
 were not all killed by imbibing such liquid is a marvel 
 to me to this day. 
 
 More struggling and floundering through marshes 
 and bogs, more pitch-dark forests, bear alarms, and 
 frightened horses, and then a terrific thunderstorm. 
 Frightened horses again ; swimming head and ex- 
 haustion ; my poor, tired little steed sinking into mud 
 and water, and stumbling into holes as awkwardly as 
 ever. I cling to his flanks for dear life ; a plunge into 
 that morass would be the end of me. Wet to the skin, 
 I am dragged from the horse and made to stand by a 
 fire to get dry ; but I drop on the ground and go to 
 sleep in spite of screeching owls and ducks and every- 
 thing. On again : and I sway from side to side, back- 
 ward and forward, my cramped knees refusing to do 
 as I wished, while the tchinovnick calmly begs me to 
 hold on and keep steady. With my head as dull as a 
 lump of lead, and my hands nearly powerless, 1 tie the 
 reins round my wrists and let the horse do just as he 
 likes. This sort of equestrianship fails to please my 
 escort ; so a cart is hired, a layer of hay placed at the 
 bottom, and I am placed above it ; and thus, after a 
 
148 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 twenty miles' jolting, I re-enter Yakutsk like a wounded 
 soldier after battle. 
 
 And now, with many regrets, I had to part with my 
 escort. I need scarcely speak of my great indebtedness 
 to all the worthy men, from the tchinovnick down to 
 the Yakut guide, who went with me on that long 
 journey. Their steadfastness and readiness to do all 
 that I required are sufficiently obvious throughout my 
 account of the 2000 miles' ride, and need little praise from 
 me now. They were chivalrous and devoted, without ex- 
 ception. I was always at their mercy : but never for one 
 instant did they betray the confidence reposed in them. 
 Two things kept them stanch and true — that a woman 
 was intrusted to their care, and that they were bound 
 on a mission of mercy to their outcast brethren. May 
 God ever bless them for all the help they gave me ! 
 
 The noble-minded ispravnick handed me, on parting, 
 a farewell letter, which I cannot forbear from printing : 
 
 Letter of the Viluisk ispravnick, Antonovitch. 
 
 His farewell address to Miss Marsden 31ST 
 
 July, 1891. 
 " Miss Marsden : 
 
 " Having come to the limit of the circuit in my 
 government, and having thus finished the special and 
 extraordinary commission of my chief to accompany 
 you and protect you through your journey to the 
 different places where the leper dwellings are to be 
 
Letter of Ispravnick. 1 49 
 
 found, I deeply regret to be obliged, by the duties of 
 my service, to bid you farewell and to return to Viluisk, 
 But before expressing to you, Miss Marsden, my sincere 
 and quite special respect and heartfelt esteem, I beg of 
 you to allow me to say a few words about the impor- 
 tance of your visit to the Viluisk Circuit, but especially 
 to the Sredni Viluisk oulousse. Her Imperial Majesty 
 the Empress, who is always thinking about the good of 
 her people, having informed you about the intimations 
 that had reached Her Imperial Majesty concerning the 
 sad condition of the unfortunate lepers of the Viluisk 
 Circuit, and getting to know your desire to inspect them, 
 has graciously deigned to allow you to personally witness 
 their sad condition and truly unbearable and deplorable 
 position, and ,to get acquainted with the local means 
 of treatment of leprosy, if such exist, and also to deter- 
 mine the best way in which a hospital could be con- 
 structed for them. How far it is necessary to build a 
 hospital you have now been able to judge for yourself. 
 You have yourself seen sixty-six lepers in twelve dif- 
 ferent places — that is, almost all the lepers officially 
 known as such in the circuit. What can I add to your 
 own personal impression ? The purport of these words 
 is only to direct your attention to how terrible a scourge 
 leprosy is for the whole of the population, but especially 
 for the Sredni Viluisk oulousse, where it seems to have 
 its nest. 
 
 " Having had the government of this circuit for more 
 
150 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 than three years, and, before that period, having served 
 in different offices in the same circuit, I have constantly 
 had the question of the deficit of their domestic economy 
 before me as due to leprosy. Each new victim to this 
 disease deprives the community of the Yakut nasslegs 
 not only of a workman, able to pay his own taxes, but, 
 besides that, obliges them to maintain him at their own 
 expense, as well as the whole of his family, who, in him, 
 lose their only means of support. The inhabitants of 
 the local community are obliged by turns to carry the 
 food to these lepers, who are so scattered and at such 
 long distances that, in doing so, they lose a lot of time, 
 and are put, as well, to a great deal of work. The 
 community have such a dread of leprosy that when 
 any one of them falls ill they are ready at once to sus- 
 pect the symptoms of this disease ; in consequence of 
 this they are ever on the watch, and have often repeated 
 inspections and meetings, with the one purpose of 
 defining whether one or the other of the community is 
 a leper. On receiving the news of your arrival at 
 Yakutsk, and the directions given by His Excellency 
 the Yakutsk Governor about taking all possible means 
 to alleviate the frightful and difficult journey you were 
 undertaking, I went at once to the Sredni Viluisk 
 native administration and collected all the chiefs of 
 the nasslegs and representatives of the population. I 
 informed them that the sole purpose of your journey — 
 almost impossible for a woman, especially for one who, 
 
Letter of Ispravnick. 151 
 
 like yourself, has been accustomed to every comfort — 
 was to alleviate the position of the suffering lepers, and 
 to organize a hospital for them. You cannot imagine 
 with what deep gratitude and inexpressible joy they 
 received this information. As a vivid testimony of this 
 was the way in which they unanimously set to work to 
 clear a road through the forest for 1500 versts along the 
 Viluisk Circuit, which I suppose you noticed, and which 
 would have been impassable during the summer. They 
 made little bridges across the marshes and the 
 dangerous parts of the bog, and set about this work 
 with so much earnestness that they threw aside their 
 own summer agricultural work, and, altogether, tried to 
 make some kind of a road so as to enable you and your 
 baggage to pass along without being hurt. The ex- 
 pression of their wish to take you through on their own 
 horses shows how well they understood and realized 
 the good which you have wished to do them, by coming 
 to visit the lepers, and the good results that they know 
 will follow for the whole of the population — thanks to 
 your self-denial. 
 
 "Again, at several of the places where you stopped 
 for rest, the Yakuts assembled in full body to express 
 their heart felt gratitude for the kind and truly Christian 
 work that you have undertaken for the alleviation of 
 their unfortunate sufferings, which will also be of such 
 utmost importance as regards the good of the whole of 
 the Sredni Viluisk oulousse. At the same time, on 
 
152 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 their knees, they asked you to lay at the feet of Her 
 Imperial Majesty the expression of their true and loyal 
 feelings, as well as their tears of gratitude for the solic- 
 itude shown by Her Imperial Majesty for her loyal 
 servants the Yakuts. 
 
 " Miss Marsden, in bidding you farewell from the 
 depth of my heart, will you allow me to have the honor 
 of kissing your hand, which has done so much good to 
 the population committed to my charge ? Wishing you 
 every success, and trusting that you will finish your 
 journey in good health, at the same time allow me to 
 express the hope that God may yet grant me the honor 
 of seeing you again in this life. With deep respect and 
 devotion, I have the honor to remain, 
 
 "Your humble servant, 
 
 " N. Antonovitch. 
 "July 31, 1891. 
 " Kobaisky Nassleg of the Sredni Viluisk oulousse." 
 
 On reaching Yakutsk I went straight to bed and slept 
 for twenty-four hours without waking. It was hard 
 work to get my limbs to move after this little rest, my 
 body was so bruised and sore and aching, while from 
 my waist to my feet I was black and blue. 
 
 Before leaving for Irkutsk I had the pleasure of 
 again seeing the kind Bishop of Yakutsk, who gave me 
 a pastoral letter in recognition of my visit to the 
 Yakut lepers. In it he states that I had ridden over 
 
Letter of the Bishop of Yakutsk. 153 
 
 3000 versts in seeking the lepers. I was glad to know 
 this from a man of his authority, knowing the country- 
 well, whereas the Yakuts have only a confused notion 
 of distance, and could never tell me the exact number 
 of versts. 
 
 The translation of this letter is as follows : 
 
 " To Miss Kate Marsde/i, Sister of Mercy. 
 11 Dear Madam : 
 
 " Moved by a feeling of sympathy and pity for 
 the poor lepers of the Yakutsk government, you have 
 accomplished an unparalleled deed of charity by coming 
 to visit them from England and St. Petersburg, so as to 
 see their sad condition, and at once take measures to 
 alleviate their fate. By God's help you have already 
 accomplished this journey, having visited the Viluisk dis- 
 trict, overcoming unheard of obstacles along the road. 
 What with the dangers, the risks to your own health, 
 the pain and difficulty of riding on horseback for over 
 3000 versts, and the frightful contagiousness of the dis- 
 ease, you came to them with your fellow-travelers like 
 angels from heaven to comfort them. By your true 
 sympathy in their sorrow, your material help in their 
 need, and by the promise of building them a refuge, 
 you have raised their fallen spirits with the hope of a 
 better and brighter future. I feel bound to send you 
 this, my pastoral letter, dear madam, as an expression 
 of my sincere gratitude for your self-sacrificing work of 
 
*54 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Christian love, praying for God's blessing to rest on the 
 beginning of this your good work. May he continue 
 to bless it, and thus help you to carry out your good 
 intentions of establishing a refuge for the lepers. 
 " Humbly yours, 
 
 " Meletie, 
 " Bishop of Yakutsk and Valuisk. 
 "Yakutsk, August, 1891." 
 
 My journey up the Lena toward Irkutsk was accom- 
 panied by just as many inconveniences and difficul- 
 ties as I experienced on my outward journey. I was 
 exhausted and ill on the voyage, and had to lie in my 
 berth, half dazed, all day long. During the evening I 
 sometimes crawled on deck, looking at passing boats and 
 the scenes on the banks. To add to the discomforts 
 about 150 men from the gold mines, with wives and 
 children, joined us. Babies crying, and men and women 
 quarreling, were bad enough ; but the fearful smells 
 were worse to endure. When the river became shallow 
 we had to change into small post-boats, which, though 
 covered at the top, are exposed to rain, wind, and fog 
 at both ends. We were short of provisions, and for five 
 days we lived on eggs, potatoes, and tea. Sometimes 
 we grounded on the mud, or on stones, and then, as 
 the men hauled us off clumsily, and we tumbled about, 
 I began to wonder how long it would be before we were 
 all at the bottom. 
 
A Clean Hotel at Last. 155 
 
 On landing, I had to finish the journey by tarantass, 
 so there was more bumping and jolting. 
 
 On arriving at Irkutsk I went to a quiet, clean 
 hotel, which, though an unpretentious little place, was, 
 to me, quite a luxurious place after all I had gone 
 through. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HELP FOR THE LEPERS. 
 
 Progress at Irkutsk on behalf of the lepers — Dangers from robbers — 
 A trusty soldier — Contributions for the lepers — Departure from 
 Irkutsk for Tomsk — My tarantass collapses — The riches of Si- 
 beria — Preparations for the Grand Duke's journey — Post-station 
 keepers — Swindling drivers — " Once bit, twice shy " — Perils from 
 trains of baggage carts — My narrowest escape from death — Dis- 
 comforts of low sledges on muddy roads — Arrival in Tomsk and 
 visit to the convent — Volunteers for the relief of the lepers — Duties 
 of sisters and nuns — A doctor volunteers — The proposed colony 
 for the lepers — Peasants' horses and houses — At Tjumen again — 
 The railway once more — Ufa and Samara — Arrival in Moscow. 
 
 On the morning after arriving at Irkutsk I had to 
 call on the General-Governor, who, at my request, sum- 
 moned the committee to hear an account of my visits to 
 the lepers. The committee consisted of His Excellency 
 the General-Governor, the two archbishops, an aged 
 priest, Mr. Sievers, the doctor, the inspector, Captain 
 Lvoff, and myself. 
 
 I read a resume of my travels, and begged hard for 
 help for the lepers ; I asked, first, for warm clothing, 
 and, thank God ! about $750 were at once contributed 
 for that object. 
 
 When the question of building a hospital arose, a 
 156 
 
Contributions for the Lepers. 157 
 
 great deal of discussion ensued, principally on account 
 of the necessary funds. 
 
 However, when I informed them of my intention to 
 plead with all the leading people of Moscow and St. 
 Petersburg on behalf of the lepers, and, if possible, lay 
 the sad state of their existence before Her Imperial 
 Majesty the Empress — but that I hoped the Siberians 
 would come forward and help their own outcast people 
 first — the General-Governor then said that he would do 
 all in his power to get sufficient money to build four 
 large temporary huts where the lepers could be shel- 
 tered, to provide them with cows, and to endeavor to 
 obtain contributions toward the hospital. 
 
 Shortly after, a sum of $5000 was contributed, which 
 was left in charge of the Governor. 
 
 Fully realizing that had I known the Russian lan- 
 guage much more could have been collected, neverthe- 
 less, I was deeply grateful to our Lord for this good 
 beginning, and rejoiced to think that the poor unhappy 
 people would, at last, have a decent place to live in, 
 proper clothes, and good milk to nourish them. 
 
 The General-Governor, who was most kind, gave me 
 an order to visit the vast central penal servitude prison 
 at Alexandrovsky, where there are 3500 prisoners ; thus 
 some of my time was again taken up in visiting prisoners, 
 distributing tea and sugar, and giving copies of the 
 Gospels. 
 
 I was very thankful to have the protection of a 
 
158 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 soldier, who always slept at night on a rug outside my 
 door. Notwithstanding his guardianship in the house, 
 a thief entered a bedroom close to mine one night and 
 stole 700 rubles. When I add that my room was on 
 the ground floor and could easily be entered from the 
 outside, also that during my week at Irkutsk there had 
 been more than one murder committed, it can well be 
 imagined that my trusty sentinel contributed considerably 
 to my peace of mind. The kindness and courtesy of 
 both the soldier and the aid-de-camp of the General- 
 Governor, who was also appointed to look after me, were 
 undeviating. I have already expressed my admiration 
 of Russian soldiers ; and the high opinion of them was 
 confirmed again and again during my travels. 
 
 I left Irkutsk in October for Tomsk, a distance of 
 over a thousand miles. 
 
 Looking back upon the results of the few days I had 
 spent in Irkutsk, I praised God for the help he had 
 enabled me to get for his lepers ; and prayed for further 
 guidance at each step. 
 
 Now that the first contributions had been given, God 
 would send others, and my next special prayer was for 
 earnest Christian women to be found, who would be 
 willing to go and nurse the lepers, as well as others to 
 do the menial work. 
 
 We traveled in a tarantass, which, at an early stage of 
 the journey, broke down, the front wheels giving way. 
 It was, altogether, a very awkward business ; but we 
 
Wealth of Siberia. 159 
 
 managed to get another vehicle, and off we went gallop- 
 ing again. 
 
 Siberia is doubtless one of the richest countries in the 
 world ; but its untold wealth lies in the earth almost un- 
 touched. If only English or American enterprise could 
 be imported there, Siberia would be turned, literally, up- 
 side down, and the veins of rich ore be brought to light. 
 Then would come the flourishing days of gold and sil- 
 ver, as well as" of milk and honey. 
 
 A great change had taken place in many respects since 
 my outward journey toward Yakutsk. The Grand Duke 
 had been making his tour, and, to prepare for his com- 
 ing, old bridges had been repaired, telegraph poles 
 painted, and post-stations scraped, scrubbed, cleaned, 
 and whitewashed. But all the whitewashing in the 
 world would fail to rid the stations of vermin ; there 
 they were, still crawling placidly over walls and every- 
 thing, in spite of imperial mandates for their extirpation 
 by lime and water. If these noisome dwellers in the 
 stations were an everlasting nuisance to me, provoking 
 repeated complaints in the course of these pages, some 
 of the poor keepers of the stations, who would have 
 banished the pests if they could, earned my gratitude in 
 more ways than one. I knew just twelve words of Rus- 
 sian, and, with that meager vocabulary, I had to try and 
 make my wishes known at every station. But these 
 keepers, instead of laughing at the stumbling and stut- 
 tering of the foreigner, did all they possibly could, 
 
160 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 by persistent dumb motions, and so forth, to get an ink- 
 ling of rny meaning. And sometimes, when I tumbled 
 out of the tarantass, looking like a bundle of dirty rags, 
 and stepping ankle-deep into thick mud in the darkness, 
 these poor fellows would show all sorts of little kind- 
 nesses, which I most heartily appreciated. 
 
 My diminutive Russian vocabulary was insufficient 
 now and then to save me from extortion at the hands of 
 keen-witted drivers. Once, when the interpreter had 
 left me in order to attend to some work at a distant 
 place, I found I had paid for seven horses instead of 
 four, the number harnessed to the vehicle. I did not 
 wake up to the fact that a swindle had been perpetrated 
 until I had gone through a series of arithmetical calcula- 
 tions between the one station and the next. And when 
 the next station was reached, those Jehu fellows actually 
 tried the same trick ! But I was too sharp for them this 
 time. I sat down, wrote " four " on a scrap of paper, 
 then held up four fingers, and shook my head when I 
 saw them exchanging knowing looks, which meant a 
 conspiracy to extort the price of seven steeds. Then 
 they shouted and yelled, but I kept cool and waited ; 
 and it is astonishing the effect that English coolness 
 has on the Russian temper. Hoarse muttering gradually 
 succeeded to the shouting, and at last I got four horses 
 at their proper price. The trick was not tried at the 
 next station. 
 
 More than once my tarantass became almost hope- 
 
A Tragic Incident. i6r 
 
 lessly intermixed with trains of baggage carts. This 
 kind of predicament used to begin with a sudden out- 
 burst of yelling, rather alarming in the pitchy darkness ; 
 the cart drivers seemed to try and bring their horses 
 and vehicles right under the noses of our horses ; there 
 would be a general scuffle and muddle ; then my driver 
 would go off to exchange compliments with the other 
 drivers, leaving me alone, wondering what would 
 happen next. 
 
 Before reaching Tomsk I had one of the narrowest 
 escapes from death that ever fell to my lot. It was 
 a bitterly cold night ; now and then from among 
 broken, dark clouds the moon shone brightly. After a 
 day's rain the frost had come, making the roads like 
 a sheet of glass, except for the holes which frequently 
 occurred. We had to climb and descend several steep 
 hills, and as we flew down, at a terrific speed, I became 
 a little nervous, particularly as the driver was quite 
 a youth, and therefore apt to be venturesome. But, 
 being exceedingly tired, I fell asleep, notwithstanding 
 bumping and jolting. On awaking I found we were at 
 the top of a mountain, and the driver was in the act 
 of tieing one of the wheels preparatory to descending. 
 All went well for a time ; but presently the horses 
 began to go faster and faster, and suddenly, when we 
 came to a hole in the road, the driver was pitched 
 among the three horses. I sprang to my feet and 
 tried to get hold of the reins, but found that the driver 
 
1 62 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 had twisted them securely round his wrist. Ami there 
 w.is the poor fellow being tossed to and fro among the 
 
 le}>'S o( the horses, which, now terrified, toie down the 
 hill like mad eieatnies. I was pel 'feet ly helpless either 
 to save the doomed driver or myself. There was 
 
 nothing to do but to breathe a prayer, and wait for 
 God's will to he done. In a tew minutes there was a 
 fearful crash. We had come into collision with another 
 
 tarantaSS, and the Six horses and the two tarantasses 
 were mixed up in a chaotic mass. The interpreter and 
 I jumped OUt Of the vehicle and searched for the driver. 
 
 There In- was, all but dead, half crushed under a wheel ; 
 his horrible, ghastly condition l dare not describe, As 
 for myself, 1 felt like one snatched from the jaws o\~ 
 
 death, while- I knew it was only by (iod's mercy that 
 
 I had been preserved from the fate of the poor young 
 driver, 
 
 During a portion Of this journey 1 had to ride in a 
 low sledge, which is pictured in the illustration. I had to 
 
 partly lie and partly sit, while the driver stood in 
 front of me, in danger 6t being thrown back upon me 
 
 should the sledge happen to bump into a hole. li such 
 
 an event oocurred (and it did occur) the horses, of 
 course, became alarmed, and there was a general 
 
 scramble among driver and hoist's to set themselves 
 right again, it' a thaw began, and the road became 
 muddy, there was no protection for me against the 
 
 stones and mud thrown up by the horses' him! feet ; 
 
Experience in a Lav Sledge, [63 
 
 .•mil sometimes I was literally covered willi mud. In 
 
 going down hills it was useless to tell the driver to be 
 
 careful: my caution seemed to have an effect jusl the 
 
 opposite to the one I desired. I knew that, if over- 
 turned, I should probably be dragged along, face down- 
 ward, over the stones, and, perhaps, kicked to death 
 
 by the horses. This kind of traveling was had enough 
 
 by day, bul by night it was considerably worse ; fortu 
 nately, but a little pari of the journey had to be 
 accomplished in this primitive fashion, and thai only 
 in the breaking-up season, when none bul those on 
 in genl business travel. 
 
 My return visit to Tomsk was a very memorable 
 One. I arrived in November, [891, and, after much 
 
 deliberation and prayer, visited the convent. The 
 abbess received me very kindly 5 and when i described 
 the condition and wants of the lepers both she and 
 all the sisters were deeply affected, Self-sacrificing 
 women were needed to go io the lepers would some 
 of these sisters volunteer ? i asked earnestly foi God's 
 guidance, and then felt thai h was my duly to appeal 
 
 to these women Io devole Iheir liv<:, Io the Service of 
 
 the hpers. So I weui again to the convent, and begged 
 the mother in Christ's name, and for Christ's sajke, to 
 undertake the mission. When I ceased speaking, she 
 
 calmly and deliberately said, " Yes, in his name, .ind 
 
 for his sake, I will do it." 
 
 This promise was made conditionally on permission 
 
164 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 being obtained from Mr. Pobedonostzoff, Head Procu- 
 rator of the Synod. 
 
 And here let me explain the difference between 
 trained nursing sisters and nuns in Russia. The sisters 
 are generally drawn from the middle and upper classes. 
 They are specially trained in hospitals in nursing the 
 sick, and form quite a separate institution or community. 
 There are several important communities of this kind 
 both in St. Petersburg and 4 Moscow. One, in the former 
 city, was started some years ago by an English Quaker 
 lady, and is in every respect a model establishment. 
 It is now under the patronage of the Prince of Olden- 
 bourg, one of Russia's great philanthropists. But the 
 nuns are, for the most part, peasant women, robust, 
 and inured to hardship, and accustomed to all kinds 
 of manual labor. It is their duty to attend to the 
 domestic matters of the convent, cleaning the premises, 
 baking bread, preparing meals, making candles, etc. 
 They are also able to attend to slight repairs and 
 renovations, .such as glazing, papering, painting ; and 
 are further employed in tilling the ground, and gather- 
 ing in the crops. 
 
 General Tobiesen, the good governor of the town, 
 took me one day to the University of Doctors. I 
 wanted to interest these professional men in the lepers, 
 and took with me a specimen of the skin of a leper — 
 which, at my request, had been taken from the lepers 
 I had visited by the feldsher (assistant surgeon), 
 
The Doctors of Tomsk. 165 
 
 who accompanied me — for scientific examination. I 
 gave them an account of what I had seen, and a 
 detailed history of some of the leper cases. Then, 
 on asking that one of them would go and study 
 the disease on the spot, once the colony was erected, 
 my request, much to my joy, was granted. I stipu- 
 lated, as I had also done in making my request to 
 the mother, that he should not have to encounter 
 the dangers that I experienced, and that the lepers 
 should all be collected in the colony which I hoped 
 to establish. 
 
 Before continuing the story of my journey, I must 
 bear grateful testimony to all the kindness, sympathy, 
 and help accorded to me by General Tobiesen and his 
 family. Nothing could exceed the friendliness and 
 the anxious desire which the general displayed to 
 second all my efforts ; and, indeed, the many proofs of 
 his kindness of heart, and of his wishfulness to over- 
 come difficulties for me, form one of the pleasantest 
 recollections of my Russian travels. 
 
 In traveling from Tomsk to Tjumen, I found 
 that government horses were so few, and the delays, 
 in consequence, so many, that I decided to hire 
 peasants' horses. This alteration necessitated my 
 putting up at peasants' houses instead of at post- 
 stations. 
 
 The Siberian peasants' dwellings are, as a rule, 
 beautifully clean ; but my favorable opinion was des- 
 
1 66 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 tined to be somewhat qualified during this portion of 
 the journey. On arriving at night at these houses, I 
 would find hay covering the ground, and the head of 
 the household, his wife and children, and two or three 
 men, asleep on this very primitive kind of bed ; and I 
 had to join them. The room would be in a state of 
 dirtiness and stuffiness almost enough to stifle and 
 poison one. The same experience occurring night after 
 night, I went back latterly, in sheer desperation, to the 
 post-stations and the government horses. Let my 
 unpleasant experience be a warning to travelers to 
 avoid patronizing peasants' houses. 
 
 At last I arrived at Tjumen in a rather lamentable 
 condition. What with exposure to bitter cold and 
 tropical heal, and all the fatigues of the previous 
 months — with the jolting, broken rest, and little food — 
 I was now, vulgarly speaking, u done up." I was sore 
 in every joint, frightfully exhausted, and, even with a 
 comfortable bed and surrounded by kind friends, I 
 could get no sleep. Mr. and Mrs. Wardroper renewed 
 their most generous hospitality, and did all they possibly 
 could for my benefit. My dear friend Miss Field came 
 to meet me at Tjumen. I was glad to get under her 
 care again ; but, notwithstanding my friend's remon- 
 strances, I started for Ekaterinberg the next day, 
 feeling very anxious to move on toward St. Petersburg, 
 where so much work awaited me. 
 
 At Ekaterinberg we were welcomed and entertained 
 
Ekaterinberg Again. 167 
 
 by Mrs. Thomas Yates, daughter of Mr. Ward- 
 roper ; and we had to remain about a week, my bad 
 health preventing me from continuing the journey at 
 once. 
 
 When able to get about a little, I went, with Miss 
 Field, to see the sisters at the convent there, in order 
 to interest them in the lepers ; and, before leaving, I 
 gave them Testaments, which were most gratefully 
 received. The following letter was sent to me by one 
 of them : 
 
 " Highly Respected Miss Kate : 
 
 " From myself, and in the name of all our sisters, 
 I send you our sincere gratitude for the attention you 
 have bestowed upon us sinners. We do not know 
 how, and we cannot find words, to express our feelings 
 for you. We look upon you, not only by your social 
 position, but especially by your spiritual life, as far 
 above us, considering the great deed you have accom- 
 plished in visiting such unfortunate sufferers — a work 
 which would hardly be undertaken by anyone. Not 
 one of us will ever forget your visit ; and, as we daily 
 read the precious words in the Holy Testaments we 
 have received from you, we raise, and will continue 
 to raise, heartfelt prayers to the Almighty Creator to 
 prolong your precious life, to protect your health, and 
 strengthen you to continue your great work ; also 
 praying that the Lord may uphold and ground in faith 
 
1 68 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 and patience those unfortunate, suffering lepers, and 
 soon alleviate their condition. 
 
 " Wishing you good health and success in everything, 
 we present our deep respect, and humbly beg, if it will 
 not inconvenience you, to give our greetings to Anna 
 Ivanovna Field. 
 
 " With sincere respect and devotion, 
 11 1 remain, 
 
 " Ever ready to serve you, 
 
 " Claudia Kalougina, 
 " Nun of the Tichvinsky Convent, 
 " Ekaterinberg, November 27, 1891." 
 
 We set off again in a sledge, with 25 ° of cold, toward 
 Moscow, or, rather, Zlatoust ; and this 300 versts of 
 sledge riding, with its accompaniments of filthy post- 
 stations, dirty people, and swarming vermin, threatened 
 to prove the " last straw." The little life left in me 
 was kept from expiring by my friend's unceasing care 
 and ever watchful consideration. How thankful I was 
 to God that my former steadfast companion was at my 
 side again ! 
 
 When we approached Zlatoust, and I saw the steam 
 from engines and the station in the distance, a curious 
 fit of emotion took hold of me. I was almost like a 
 child, full of glee and excitement at seeing for the first 
 time a railway engine. My feelings can be well under- 
 stood. Sledge jolting, tarantass bumping, horse riding, 
 
A Railway at Last I 169 
 
 and voyaging in cargo boats had now all come to an 
 end, and the luxury of a railway train was to be expe- 
 rienced once more. 
 
 But this luxury had to be taken piecemeal, for the 
 distance of some 900 versts to Moscow was too long 
 and fatiguing for me to cover at one sitting, in my 
 generally shattered condition. So we stopped and 
 rested at two or three places. 
 
 At Ufa we saw Bishop Dionysius again, by whom 
 we were greeted with a warm welcome. At Samara 
 Governor Sverbeff received us with every kindness. 
 He had rooms prepared for us at the hotel, sent in 
 dinners to us, and was most anxious about our comfort 
 and welfare. I heard that there had been some lepers 
 here a fortnight before our arrival, and that they had 
 returned to their villages. At my request a special 
 meeting of doctors was summoned to discuss the ques- 
 tion of leprosy in the Government of Samara, and to 
 grant, if possible, the petitions for help which had 
 come from lepers in the North and the South. I begged 
 the doctors, under the leadership of the Governor, to 
 gather the lepers into a separate place of shelter, and to 
 collect funds for their relief ; and this they promised 
 to do as soon as the famine came to an end. Before 
 leaving the town I had the satisfaction of seeing the 
 lepers brought back from the villages and placed in 
 separate rooms, where, besides being isolated, they 
 would receive proper attention. Their arrival created 
 
170 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 considerable commotion and opposition ; but I trust 
 that, by this time, the people have become fully alive to 
 the fact that to care for the poor creatures who have 
 already been stricken is an important measure for pre- 
 venting the spread of the disease, especially as one of 
 them kept a village shop. 
 
 The Bishop of Samara showed great interest in the 
 work, and kindly sent me a letter, which I here venture 
 to reproduce : 
 
 "Your Excellency, Gracious Madam: 
 
 11 It was with lively interest that I read the account of 
 Your Excellency's wonderful journey. 
 
 " Deeply touched by the unfortunate suffering state 
 of the Yakutsk lepers, whose relief is the object of 
 your journey, I thank God, from the depth of my 
 heart, that in you he has raised such a charitable 
 servant, who does not stop before any difficulties, but, 
 with through self-denial, goes forth to help the most 
 unfortunate of mortals. 
 
 " Your work is a holy work. May the Lord crown it 
 with full success. 
 
 " Inclosing herein my mite toward your good work, 
 I have the honor to remain, with deep respect, 
 " Your Excellency's humble servant, 
 
 " Vladimir, 
 " Bishop of Samara and Stavropol. 
 
 " November 30, 1 891." \ 
 
Return to Moscow. 171 
 
 I arrived once more in Moscow in December, nearly 
 eleven months since setting out on that eventful day, 
 February 1, 1891. I kept quiet and rested for three 
 days, seeing none of my Russian friends but Madame 
 Costanda, and then set off for St. Petersburg, where I 
 hoped to establish the headquarters of a scientific 
 society for investigating the state of lepers and con- 
 certing measures for their relief wherever lepers ex- 
 isted throughout the Russian Empire. In this plan I 
 received the support of Professor Peterson, of whom I 
 shall have more to say in the next chapter. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 RESULTS AND PROSPECTS. 
 
 Audience with Her Imperial Majesty the Empress — Miss Florence 
 Nightingale and the Countess Tolstoi — Assistance given by the 
 Head Procurator — The publication of the narrative of my journey 
 — Mr. Emory Smith, and the drawing-room meeting at his 
 house — Address by Professor Peterson — Madame Strekaloff, and 
 the Society of Ants — Visits to leper colonies at Riga and Dor- 
 pat — Plan and arrangements for the proposed colony in Yakutsk 
 —The lepers to have the best of everything — Ways and means 
 — Princess Shachovsky, and her community of sisters at Moscow 
 — Five sisters volunteer to go to Yakutsk — Activity of the Society 
 of Ants — Professor Pospeloff, and the medical meeting in Mos- 
 cow — Letter of thanks — Princess Shachovsky, and her active 
 support and kindness — The Name of Christ — The wants of 
 the suffering obliterating religious distinctions — Gift of His 
 Imperial Highness the Czarevitch — Efficacy of prayer — Depar- 
 ture of the sisters for Yakutsk — A " Leper Sunday " appointed 
 for a collection throughout the empire — Future work — " The 
 love of Christ constraineth us." 
 
 The next four months I was busy, both in St. Peters- 
 burg and in Moscow, interesting the Russians, high and 
 low, on behalf of the lepers. This chapter will, there- 
 fore, contain the chief results of my journey to Siberia ; 
 and without going into details, which might only 
 weary the reader, I hope to present an outline of the 
 practical outcome, so far, of the mission I was con- 
 strained to undertake. 
 
 172 
 
Countess Tolstoi. 173 
 
 Her Imperial Majesty the Empress was indisposed on 
 my arrival in St. Petersburg ; and my audience with 
 Her Majesty was therefore delayed for some time. At 
 last I was honored with a long audience, which was a 
 private one ; but I may be allowed to say that Her 
 Majesty took the most lively and tender interest in the 
 lepers, and promised to exert all her imperial influence 
 to help forward the work. Her Imperial Majesty also 
 headed the list of donors to the fund which was shortly 
 started. 
 
 Here I must speak of the Countess Tolstoi. Men 
 generally have their ideal hero, and women their ideal 
 of womanhood. It goes without saying that my ideal 
 of an almost perfect Englishwoman is Miss Florence 
 Nightingale ; as the queen of nurses to suffering 
 humanity, she stands forth as the embodiment of what a 
 woman can and should be. Next to Miss Florence 
 Nightingale, the woman I love and reverence the most 
 is the Countess Alexandrine Tolstoi. As Miss Nightin- 
 gale is my ideal in her sphere of life, so the Countess 
 Tolstoi is my ideal in hers. Holding a position of 
 immense power and influence, remarkable for her 
 wisdom and discretion, a clever linguist, a perfect lady 
 and a true Christian, one who knows not how to stoop 
 to any littleness in life, who possesses the very soul of 
 honor, the Countess .Tolstoi is unique among women 
 who are placed by God in circumstances of serious re- 
 sponsibility and wide-extending influence. The Count- 
 
174 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 ess Tolstoi has been my mother in Russia in all the diffi- 
 culties and trials I had to encounter ; and if only the lepers 
 may learn to love her for all the thought and help she has 
 given them, one of my fervent desires will be fulfilled. 
 
 My interviews with His Excellency the Head 
 Procurator of the Synod brought about results which 
 exceeded my highest expectations. I gave him the 
 written account, signed by the Russian official who 
 accompanied me, of my visits to the lepers. This 
 account was published, by the Procurator's instructions, 
 in the Church Intelligence, a weekly paper circulated all 
 over Russia. Not content with this notice, which would 
 probably come under the eyes of nearly every reader in 
 the empire, the Procurator had the article reprinted in 
 pamphlet form, with the title, " The Journey of an 
 English Sister of Mercy into the Yakutsk Government 
 to help the Lepers." He ordered 40,000 copies to be 
 printed and to be spread throughout Russia, in order 
 that the interest of all classes of people might be 
 secured. The proceeds were to be devoted to the 
 Leper Fund, to which the Procurator had contributed 
 $1500. I should also mention that the pamphlet con- 
 tained a note to the effect that contributions might be 
 sent for the lepers to the Synod. 
 
 The newspapers then took up the subject, and dis- 
 cussed it from various standpoints, thus giving further 
 publicity to the wants of the lepers and the measures 
 proposed to relieve them. 
 
The Plan of the Colony. 175 
 
 The medical department kindly appointed Professor 
 Peterson, a known student in leprosy, to assist me in 
 the prosecution of my work. With his help a plan was 
 drawn up for the projected colony, and a small meeting 
 convened of doctors who had been to Yakutsk, and were 
 well acquainted with the conditions and customs of 
 both country and people. We all met, and thoroughly 
 discussed the plan of the colony ; the other doctors fully 
 approved of Professor Peterson's and of my ideas in 
 every detail of the building, etc.; thus the plan was 
 definitely decided upon. The general arrangement of 
 buildings was settled as follows : 
 
 Ten separate houses for the lepers, each constructed 
 for the accommodation of ten inmates ; two hospitals 
 (one for each sex) for patients in an advanced stage 
 of the disease ; a house for the doctor and his two 
 assistants ; a house for the sisters ; a church, and a 
 house for the priest ; a building for workshops ; also a 
 bath house, a bake house, and a mortuary. The sexes 
 are to be kept apart, except in the case of a leper 
 family ; each house is to be provided with a garden, and 
 space is to be left for a large kitchen garden to supply 
 the wants of the whole of the colony. Each household 
 is to have two cows, for which a proper stable will be 
 provided. 
 
 In designing this plan one object was steadfastly 
 kept in view, namely, the happiness of the lepers. The 
 small houses, rather than one or two large ones, favored 
 
i;° On Sledg* and Horseback to the Siberia'. 
 
 this object ; for the lepers would be less likely to be 
 perpetually eouseious of their outcast condition and 
 
 incurable malady it' divided into little households than 
 if brought together under one roof. And other endeav- 
 ors will be made to give these poor doomed creatures 
 bright and pleasant surroundings, so as to relieve their 
 minds, as far as foresight and consideration can suggest, 
 oi any morbid and distressing consciousness that their 
 life is only a M living death." 
 
 Material and workmanship are to be of the very best 
 quality procurable ; and no pains will be spared to give 
 the most miserable oi God's creatures the best things 
 that can in any way add to their comfort and happiness. 
 1 want this colony to be, in every sense, a model one ; 
 and. with God's help, it sherfl be. 
 
 Having got the plans, and having formed an idea of 
 the mode of working, the next thing was to find ways 
 and means to build and support the colony. I hoped 
 that in course oi time the colony would, in some degree, 
 support itself from the produce oi the soil, and from 
 other sources ; but, after allowing a margin in this direc- 
 tion, 1 found it was quite necessary to raise $.15,000 for 
 the buildings alone, exclusive oi furniture, clothing, 
 outfit, and maintenance. 
 
 I was introduced to Mr. Emory Smith, the United 
 States Minister at St. Petersburg, This gentleman took 
 a very warm interest in the work, and not only favored 
 me with several interviews, but also made inquiries from 
 
The United States Minister. 177 
 
 Countess Tolstoi and others. A drawing-room meeting 
 
 was afterward held in his house, which was attended 
 by twelve ladies in waiting of Her Imperial Majesty 
 the Empress, and by many other leading ladies of the 
 aristocracy. At the last moment I feared that, owing 
 to my ill health, I should be unable to deliver the 
 address that was expected from me. I managed, how- 
 ever, to give an outline of what had been done, and of 
 the proposals for the benefit of the lepers. Professor 
 Peterson, a true friend of the lepers, and the second best 
 authority on leprosy in Russia, gave an address, and 
 submitted a plan of the projected colony ; and Mr. 
 Souponeff, a Russian nobleman, and formerly a provin- 
 cial governor, made a touching statement about the 
 condition of the lepers in Yakutsk. 
 
 A letter of introduction was then sent me to a Moscow 
 lady — Madame Strekaloff — who, later on, proved a most 
 devoted friend to the lepers. Her name is loved and 
 respected all over Moscow. She has been the founder 
 of several philanthropic institutions, as well as founder 
 and president of the Society for the Spread of Useful 
 Books ; although advanced in age, she works incessantly 
 for the benefit of others, and enters readily into any 
 new good work, as my readers will see by the work she 
 did for the lepers. She asked me at once to come to 
 Moscow, and re-arouse the interest of that great philan- 
 thropic center. 
 
 But before going to Moscow, I made arrangements to 
 
178 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 visit the lepers in the Baltic provinces. Professor 
 Peterson, who, as I have already mentioned, had been 
 appointed to help me in carrying out all my plans, 
 accompanied me on my journey. 
 
 At Riga I found quite a charming little leper colony, 
 which emanated from a philanthropic society, due to 
 the earnest work of Dr. Bergman n, another friend to 
 the lepers, and which had been designed and constructed 
 on the newest and best sanitary principles. Although 
 containing accommodation for forty lepers, there were 
 only twenty-two inmates as yet, though I was told that 
 Riga contained sixty other lepers still scattered in the 
 town ; some of these I visited myself. There was a 
 large room, with a harmonium, and other means of 
 recreation for the patients, an operating room, a mor- 
 tuary, and other small buildings, forming altogether a 
 little colony. Dr. Bergmann, with several other com- 
 petent assistants, has charge of the place. 
 
 There were eighteen lepers at the Dorpat hospital, 
 which is another comfortable little building. A second 
 hospital is now being built with funds raised by a 
 society. Professor de Wahl was the founder of this 
 society ; his memory is cherished and loved, not only 
 by the town of Dorpat, but by the numbers of students 
 now scattered in different parts of the empire, as well 
 as in other countries, who had studied under him ; and 
 the prayers of the lepers he has so wonderfully helped 
 will form an ever living memorial. Professor Dehio 
 
Sisters of Mercy Volunteer. 179 
 
 is now continuing the work of his loved and able 
 teacher. 
 
 These visits to Riga and Dorpat proved helpful, 
 also, in obtaining the approval of the above-mentioned 
 authorities in leprosy to our plan of the Siberian colony, 
 which they unanimously admired. 
 
 After much anxious deliberation and prayer I decided 
 to adopt Madame Strekaloff's suggestion, and to try 
 what could be done to raise funds in Moscow, in spite 
 of the expense of the journey. But before setting out 
 I heard a piece of good news which cheered and en- 
 couraged me. A Moscow friend, Princess Gagarine, 
 informed me that, owing to the wide circulation of the 
 pamphlet containing the account of my journey, the 
 condition of the lepers had come to the ears of a 
 community of sisters of mercy in Moscow, which the 
 devoted Princess Shachovsky was the head. Both 
 the princess and the sisters had become deeply in- 
 terested in the story of the lepers' sufferings, and one of 
 the sisters at once begged the princess to allow her to 
 go and nurse the poor creatures. It seems that for two 
 years she had been praying that God would give her 
 an opportunity of devoting her life to leper work. As 
 soon as she had laid her petition before the princess, 
 four other sisters followed her example. How deep 
 was my thankfulness to God that he had put it into 
 the hearts of these women to take up the cross and 
 follow the Master ! 
 
1 80 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 On reaching Moscow I found that Madame Strekaloff 
 had most thoroughly grasped the condition and wants 
 of the lepers. The Society of Ants, consisting of 
 Russian ladies engaged in benevolent and philanthropic 
 work, of which she was the head, entered with true 
 Russian enthusiasm into all the proposals, and formed 
 a committee with the special object of providing cloth- 
 ing for one hundred lepers, furniture for the colony, 
 and the linen required for all purposes. 
 
 The next movement was among the Moscow news- 
 papers ; the work was discussed in no half-hearted 
 manner, and important contributions followed, all this 
 money being sent to the proper official fund. Then 
 the medical men became interested, led by Professor 
 Pospeloff, Director of the Moscow Great Miasnitsky 
 Hospital, and President of the Moscow Dermatological 
 and Venerological Society. At one of the committee 
 meetings of the " Ants," the professor spoke in a most 
 sympathetic way about the lepers, and asked me to 
 give a report of my investigation at a special meeting 
 which he wished to convene in the hall of the 
 Miasnitsky Hospital, The hall was crowded by the 
 medical staff and representatives of the leading 
 Moscow societies. The five sisters who had volun- 
 teered to go to Yakutsk also attended, and were in- 
 troduced to the President. After my report had 
 been read by the President, he gave the following 
 address : 
 
Meeting of Medical Men. 181 
 
 " Gentlemen Members of the Society : 
 
 "We have just heard Miss Marsden's interesting 
 report. Thanks to it, we are now acquainted with the 
 insanitary condition in which the greater part of the 
 Yakut lepers live, and which, without a doubt, needs 
 a radical reorganization in the interests both of the 
 lepers themselves, and of those in perfect health sur- 
 rounding them. 
 
 11 On the authority of the documents presented by 
 Miss Marsden to our society, we see that the local 
 doctors and administration of the Yakutsk province 
 have for some time past been filled with an earnest 
 desire of organizing a better care of the lepers of that 
 province ; but, unfortunately, all these desires and the 
 appointments connected with them have up to this 
 time been made only on paper — that is to say during 
 the space of sixty-five years. 
 
 "Again, on the authority of these documents, which 
 have been looked through by myself, together with the 
 following members of our Society — Doctors N. P. 
 Feveisky, N. S. Speransky, and L. N. Moursine — we 
 could not but help coming to the conclusion that the 
 question of the abnormal condition of the Yakut lepers 
 is far from a new one, and arose, as I already said, in 
 1827 by the initiative of Dr. Uklonsky ; but since then, 
 and up to the present time, it has remained in the same 
 state — that is to say, during the last sixty-five years. 
 
 " In the meantime leprosy has existed in the 
 
1 82 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Yakutsk province, and has been spreading among the 
 Yakuts up to this time, undoubtedly demanding 
 energetic and sanitary measures to be taken, similar 
 to those long in practice in Norway, and, at present, 
 also in our own Baltic provinces. These measures 
 chiefly consist in the isolation of lepers ; and the in- 
 vestigations made in Bergen, in Norway, have shown 
 that it is only by the isolation of lepers, in special 
 sanitary colonies, that a steady decrease in the number 
 of lepers can be effected, and, consequently, the total 
 disappearance of the disease. 
 
 " Thanks to energetic, self-denying, and tender- 
 hearted Miss Marsden, the question of caring for the 
 lepers of the Yakutsk province has now received an 
 immense impetus toward its accomplishment. At the 
 present time the government has already given direc- 
 tions about the organization of a colony in accordance 
 with contemporary medical opinion, similar to the 
 colony built near Riga. Miss Marsden has already 
 collected over 25,000 rubles, which she has remitted 
 into due hands, and we cannot but feel exceedingly 
 grateful to Miss Marsden for such a beginning. 
 
 " In giving Miss Marsden our due tribute of gratitude 
 for all she has gone through in behalf of the lepers, 
 her self-denial, her energy, etc., I must say a few 
 words about Miss Marsden herself, who, as much as she 
 is energetic, is modest in the valuation of her work. 
 I want to say a few words about those difficulties and 
 
Address by Professor Pospeloff. 183 
 
 that risk which Miss Marsden experienced in her 
 journey in Siberia. It is not by any personal im- 
 pression, or on the grounds of any conversation that I 
 may have had with Miss Marsden about her journey, 
 but on the authority of the official documents I hold, 
 that I have come to the conclusion that Miss Marsden's 
 journey was a very dangerous one, and risky, in the 
 sense of the possibility of the contagion of leprosy. 
 Indeed, for a woman to accomplish ninety versts a 
 day on horseback, riding in all about 3000 versts, is an 
 immense feat, which undoubtedly has cost the traveler 
 her health. 
 
 " The ispravnick of the Viluisk Circuit, Antonovitch, 
 who is well acquainted with the local conditions of the 
 place, in his report of the 31st July, 1891, states that, 
 to reach the lepers on horseback, he was obliged to 
 direct very energetic work to be done in clearing a road 
 along the Viluisk Circuit in the Tayga for the length of 
 1500 versts, where, according to his words, there would 
 have been no possibility of passing in the summer ; 
 but, notwithstanding the clearing of the said road, the 
 ispravnick in the same report speaks of Miss Marsden's 
 journey as terrible and difficult.* How far this journey 
 along the Tayga was indeed difficult, even on horse- 
 back, and often quite impossible, we can judge from 
 what is said in the report of the medical inspector, Dr. 
 
 ♦"Ispravnick of the Viluisk Circuit of the Kobaisky Nassleg, 
 Sredni Viluisk Oulousse," July 31, 1891. 
 
184 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 Smirnoff, who, when he was visiting the village of 
 Lioutchinsk, which was thirty versts from the adminis- 
 tration, was obliged to send for the lepers, as there was 
 no possibility to get up to their dwelling-place. The 
 intense heat during the day, the cold at night, the 
 constant assault of mosquitoes, the dampness from the 
 marshes, all this made the journey anything but easy, 
 and it has truly been described by the Feldsher 
 Paramonoff, who accompanied Miss Marsden to the 
 lepers. 'Look at you, a woman,' says he, in his 
 letter, ' bearing this difficult journey with so much 
 courage, and the sleepless nights after which you could 
 hardly keep on the saddle, and yet, for the sake of 
 the work, traveling ninety versts a day — to us men, 
 accustomed to all inconveniences, your energy and 
 Christian self-denial were almost incredible.' Mr. 
 Paramonoff adds that after the labors of the day, when 
 resting, they had often to share their scanty morsel, 
 which clearly showed that, besides all the other in- 
 conveniences, they had to suffer from lack of sufficient 
 food. 
 
 " Miss Marsden's journey to Yakutsk will bring 
 undoubted help to the lepers of Yakutsk, similar to 
 that occasioned by the journey to the lepers in the 
 south of Russia of the well-known student in leprosy 
 Professor Munch, which roused interest in the lepers 
 of that part ; of Dr. Peterson, in St. Petersburg, and 
 Professors Wahl, Bergmann, ^nd others in the Baltic 
 
Vote of Thanks. 185 
 
 provinces. Miss Marsden's journey has certainly 
 brought practical help. Therefore, gentlemen, allow me 
 to thank Miss Marsden in the name of our society for 
 her interesting information, and for the hard work and 
 traveling that she has accomplished in behalf of the lepers, 
 herself probably running the risk of catching leprosy." 
 
 The president then moved a vote of thanks, seconded 
 by Professor Mansouroff, which it has been thought 
 desirable to give verbatim. 
 
 " Dear Madam : 
 
 " Having heard your most interesting report about 
 the insanitary condition of the lepers of the Sredni 
 Viluisk Circuit of the Yakutsk province, the Moscow 
 Venerological and Dermatological Society begs you 
 to accept the expression of their most sincere gratitude, 
 not only for the information that you have kindly 
 given, but also for the official documents which you 
 have kindly presented to our society for their inspection. 
 
 " On the authority of these documents, as well as on 
 that of the report we have just heard about the deplor- 
 able insanitary conditions of the lepers, which you have 
 yourself witnessed when visiting them, our society 
 fully indorses your idea about the urgent necessity 
 of properly caring for these unfortunate patients ; at 
 the same time it believes that it is indispensable to do 
 this, not only out of feelings of philanthropy, but for 
 the protection of the healthy from contagion, which 
 
1 86 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers, 
 
 inevitably takes place in the non-sanitary surroundings 
 in which, according to the reports of the local doctors 
 and your own, the lepers live. 
 
 " Having undertaken this journey to the lepers, far 
 from easy, especially for a woman, setting aside the 
 possibility of yourself getting the disease among these 
 sufferers, you have got acquainted with their position 
 on the spot. You have not limited yourself to making a 
 collection of documents for a tourist's memorial, as is 
 generally done, but, with the true-hearted solicitude of a 
 sister of mercy, you have roused a feeling of sympathy 
 in our society for these unfortunate sufferers which 
 has called forth a flow of contributions for the organiza- 
 tion of a sanitary colony for them, which all the other 
 lepers scattered in the different corners of Russia may 
 indeed envy. 
 
 " In rendering you our due tribute of respect for your 
 energy, self-denial, and heartfelt solicitude on behalf 
 of the lepers, our society once again thanks you for the 
 labors you have gone through to help the lepers, and 
 sincerely wishes you further success in your heavy and 
 dangerous, though exceedingly sympathetic and philan- 
 thropic, task. 
 
 ''President of the Society, A. Pospeloff. 
 (The stamp of the society.) 
 
 "The Moscow Venerological and Derma- 
 
 tological Society. 
 " Secretary of the Society, N. Feveisky." 
 
Professor Mansouroff *s Address. 187 
 
 Address delivered by the Vice-President of the 
 Moscow Venerological and Dermatological 
 Society, Professor N. P. Mansouroff, at the 
 meeting of the society, april 22, 1892, with 
 reference to the report made by mlss kate 
 Marsden, Sister of Mercy, about the sanitary 
 condition of the lepers of the vlluisk circuit 
 of the Yakutsk Province. 
 
 " Much respected Miss : 
 
 " When a tourist undertakes a long journey it 
 is certainly to satisfy his own curiosity ; but when a 
 woman decides to visit a distant country, thousands of 
 miles away from her own land, with the sole purpose 
 of getting to know the position of sufferers, victims of 
 the most terrible of diseases, leprosy ; when she willingly 
 submits to all the inconveniences of the journey — to the 
 severe cold of an almost savage country, to hunger and 
 to fatigue, her only recompense being the hope of 
 alleviating the sufferings of these unfortunate people, 
 and evoking a feeling of sympathy for them in the 
 civilized world — then not only does the journey of such 
 a woman merit the sympathies of scientists and philan- 
 thropists, but the person herself inspires their respect 
 and their admiration. 
 
 " Allow me then, Miss, to express to you my senti- 
 ments of respect and sympathy for the idea that you 
 have so honorably carried out, the contributions that 
 
1 88 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 you have called forth, which will create a shelter and 
 hospital for these poor sufferers. Accept my gratitude 
 for the information you have kindly given us. The 
 Society of Dermatology, of which I have the honor to 
 be vice-president, shares my sentiments for your noble 
 mission." 
 
 The Princess Shachovsky, whose deep sympathy had 
 been aroused, had called to see me with the five sisters. 
 And here let me draw attention to the wrong ideas 
 sometimes fostered respecting the nursing sisters of the 
 orthodox Greek Church. 
 
 It is far from my wish to draw any comparisons or 
 contrasts, but I am bound, in simple justice, to bear 
 emphatic testimony to the spontaneous sympathy ac- 
 corded to my work by members of the Greek Church 
 wherever I went in Russia, in spite of their knowledge 
 of the fact that I was a foreigner and a Protestant. 
 The fact of my being a Protestant was no bar to a ready 
 and patient hearing of my appeal. The vast differences 
 in point of faith and doctrine that separated me from 
 them roused no prejudice ; for did I not appeal to them 
 in the name of Christ, and on behalf of his lepers ? 
 The name of Christ is all-powerful everywhere, and 
 obliterates the important distinctions of doctrine and 
 practice where the crying needs of suffering humanity 
 are concerned. Religious prejudices and national prej- 
 udices were all forgotten when from the North there 
 
The Name of Christ. 1 89 
 
 came the piteous wail from naked, starving, deformed, 
 and crippled lepers, " Come over and help us ! " 
 
 Another fact also occurs to my mind with pathetic 
 force as I write — and I mention it with all humility and 
 thankfulness. I know that to-day, in many a dwelling 
 in Russia, both among rich and poor, prayers arise on 
 my behalf to the Great Father of us all. And I, a Prot- 
 estant, and an unworthy, halting follower of Christ, lift 
 up my voice to the Great Unseen for blessings to 
 descend upon the millions of Russia. 
 
 The prompt way in which the Princess Shachovsky 
 answered my appeal was only one instance out of many 
 where a call from Christ leads men and women of the 
 Greek Church to forget everything but their duty to 
 obey. The institution over which the princess pre- 
 sides countains about 400 inmates, afflicted with 
 various diseases, and many of them insane. The 
 work of nursing is carried on by sixty sisters, and 
 the institution is entirely supported by the princess's 
 efforts. 
 
 In conversation with the princess she said, with refer- 
 ence to the sisters who had volunteered, and the work 
 in Yakutsk : " When I took my vow to follow Christ I 
 did not take it to follow my own will; and if I were 
 only younger I would gladly go myself ; indeed, I have 
 to stifle almost envious thoughts when recollecting that 
 the sisters are going." 
 
 Portraits of the princess and three of the sisters are 
 
190 Oh S •;./ HtrstKick totkt S 
 
 give ompanying illustration — the other two 
 
 5ISt< i photographed at the 
 
 - can tail to discern in the beau- 
 tiful • astc\l princess the reflection of her 
 i id loi e to human 
 
 rhe Sisters having pro::. as. the qui 
 
 se as to the cost ol thetl outfit, their traveling 
 expenses, Mid theit means of living. For the sake of 
 
 .uul pre- 
 
 13 them eption into th< ■. it was pro- 
 
 s without delay. It was 
 
 thong . that 1 should return to St. Petersburg 
 
 in order to find the money to meet these expenses. The 
 
 princess very kindly went with me. I was tar from well. 
 
 dear princess herself tended me, and went out 
 
 \v.. a. \ |g all kinds oi fruit, which I was 
 
 : which I had been deprived. 
 
 together with w s almost throughout my journey 
 
 to and from Siberia. 
 
 Soon after reaching the capital 1 wrote to His Impe- 
 rial Highness the Czarevitch, as President of a Com- 
 mittee for the Relief of the Starving, asking for the 
 money required for the sisters" expenses. Most prompt 
 and kind was the reply. In two days His Imperial 
 Highness sent a contribution of $2500 from his private 
 purse to cover these expenses. 
 
 The letter which His Imperial Highness ordered to be 
 written to me was as follows : 
 
Inter c \ t of th e Csa revitch . i<ji 
 
 " Madam : 
 
 " I have the honor to inform you that I had the joy 
 of submitting to His Imperial Highness, my Lord the 
 
 Grand Duke Czarevitch, your petition concerning the 
 
 help you propose rendering to the unfortunate lepers oi 
 
 the Yakutsk government; and that His Imperial High- 
 
 ; taking a lively interest in the good work undcrt- 
 
 by your generous devotion, has deigned to intrust me to 
 
 remit to you, for the said cause, the sum of 5000 I ibles 
 
 from His Highness. 
 
 "Fulfilling the wish of my Lord the Grand Luke 
 
 Czarevitch, I have the honor to send you, with the 
 
 present letter, the 5000 rubles stated, begging you, 
 
 madam, to accept the assurance of my perfect esteem 
 
 and high'; deration. 
 
 " v. Pleve, 
 
 "St. PETER3BOURG, April 2% 1^2." 
 
 In a few days this contribution was followed by an 
 anonymous gift of 
 
 I regarded these r:d all the help that had been 
 
 proffered, as distinct answers to pray me kind- 
 
 hearted people who read this book may perhap 
 all the results named to natural causes ; but from 
 childhood upward I have ever possessed a deep con- 
 victio . concerning the efficacy of prayer, and I trace a 
 great many events in my life and in connection with my 
 work, not to human instrumentality, but to the direct 
 guidance and help of God in answer to prayer. 
 
i9 2 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Zefc s. 
 
 With regard to a party of working nuns going to 
 
 Yakutsk to attend to the manual labor of the colony, the 
 Head Procurator granted his permission tor this de- 
 parture from monastic regulations. The five nursing- 
 sisters from the institution of the princess left Moscow 
 in May last, and by this time I trust they are in the 
 midst of the leper district, ministering to the wants of 
 these poor creatures. The departure of the sisters for 
 Yakutsk was notified to me in the following letter : 
 
 Letter from the Princess Shackovsky, of Moscow. 
 
 u My dearly loved Sister : 
 
 "Yesterday, May 17 (29), having announced in 
 the papers the definite departure of the sisters, on 
 arriving at the station with my dear travelers I saw 
 a man of venerable appearance approaching me, 
 who asked me to accept 51 rubles ($25) for the 
 traveling expenses of the sisters. Another gave me 
 100 rubles ($50), a third 200 rubles ($100), half for 
 the sisters and half for the poor unfortunate lepers. 
 Again, a fourth brought 25 rubles (§12.50). Very 
 touching prayers were offered by an earnest pastor, a 
 great number of people being present, all surrounding 
 the sisters, and, with tears, wishing them a happy 
 journey. It was indeed a solemn hour. Why could not 
 our good angel, our beloved Kate Marsden, have been 
 present at this beautiful religious service, which would 
 indeed have filled her heart with joy ? Madame Cos- 
 
The Sisters Start for Yakutsk. 193 
 
 tanda will, no doubt, also send you details about the 
 sisters' departure. When the moment for saying fare- 
 well had come, as the head of the sisters took leave of 
 her aged mother of seventy-five, her family, and her 
 country, no one present could remain indifferent at the 
 sight of these good-bys, which were heartrending on the 
 part of the mother, but calm and sad on the part of the 
 daughter, who for the last three years had been waiting 
 for the accomplishment of her earnest desire to conse- 
 crate herself to the care of the lepers. When at last the 
 third bell put an end to the heartrending scene, and 
 after having watched the train out of sight, which per- 
 haps was carrying off five victims of devoted love, I 
 went straight to the telegraph office to send you the 
 telegram with the news of their departure, which will 
 certainly gladden your heart. 
 
 " Yours forever, 
 
 " Natalie." 
 
 But what I may call the crowning result of my ef- 
 forts remains yet to be named. I understood that on 
 the Sunday when the Gospel of the Blind was appointed 
 to be read, a collection was made in the churches 
 throughout Russia on behalf of the blind, and that 
 this collection amounted annually to over §20,000. 
 I went to the Head Procurator, and, in the name of 
 Christ, I begged that a collection might be made for 
 the lepers on the Sunday when the Gospel of the Leper 
 
1 94 On Sledge and Horseback to the Siberian Lepers. 
 
 is appointed to be read, and, to my joy, the request was 
 granted ; and on the 13th of next December the first 
 collection, I hope, will be made in aid of lepers through- 
 out the empire. I cannot adequately express my 
 gratitude to the Head Procurator for so willingly grant- 
 ing this boon, and all the requests with regard to the 
 lepers which were presented to him. 
 
 I have no complete return yet of the amount col- 
 lected in Russia, and of the proceeds of the various 
 publications ; but whatever amount may be lacking, I 
 hope to make up from the profits of this book and of 
 my lecturing tour in America. From these latter 
 sources I am anticipating that there will be a sufficient 
 return to carry out my plans among the lepers of Si- 
 beria, and also for the purpose of helping lepers and 
 leper societies throughout the world, irrespective of 
 nationality and creed. 
 
 Since returning to England last spring, I have been 
 busily occupied in gathering strength for the work be- 
 fore me, and in preparing this book, which I devoutly 
 trust will be accepted, both in England, America, and 
 other countries, not as a record of vainglorious effort, 
 but as an earnest endeavor to arouse sympathy on 
 behalf of the most miserable members of the human 
 race. 
 
 In bidding farewell to my readers, I earnestly and 
 humbly ask for their prayers that I may be guided and 
 supported in the work to which, by God's grace, I have 
 
" The Love of Christ Constraineth Us." 195 
 
 been led to dedicate a feeble and faulty life ; and the 
 best prayer that I can offer on behalf of you, dear 
 readers, is that Christ may ever dwell in you, and you 
 in him, that you may thus be ever bound up with his 
 life, and bound to the heart of suffering humanity, re- 
 sponsive to every throb of pain, and eager to relieve the 
 children of sorrow. 
 
 The " claims of humanity " are insufficient alone to sus- 
 tain prolonged consecration to the service of the suffer- 
 ing ; a higher inspiration is required. A gentleman 
 once visited a hospital where the victims of a terrible 
 malady were sheltered. After passing through the 
 wards, and noting the heartrending and almost repulsive 
 condition of the patients, he said to the nurse who ac- 
 companied him : " You must have a great deal of the 
 * enthusiasm of humanity ' to keep you in such a place as 
 this." 
 
 " Enthusiasm of humanity, sir? " the nurse replied, 
 "that motive would not keep us here for a single day — 
 the ' Love of Christ constraineth us.' " 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 I. Testimonial from Her Highness Countess Tolstoi. 
 II. Testimonial from Madame Costanda. 
 [II, Letter from Father John Vinokouroff. 
 IV. Report of Father John Vinokouroff. 
 V. Letter from Gregory Eremeieff, Golova of the Sredni Viluisk 
 District. 
 VI. Letter from V. Paramonoff, doctor's assistant. 
 VII. Letters from lepers. 
 VIII. Protocol No. 3 of the Yakutsk Provincial Committee for Public 
 Health concerning preventive measures to be taken for 
 leprosy. 
 IX. Medical Inspector's Report. 
 
 X. A'/sum/oi journey in Yakutsk, attested by M. Petroff. 
 XI. Resumd (No. 2) of journey, attested by M. Petroff. 
 
 Testimonial from Her Highness, Countess Tolstoi, Lady of 
 Honor to Her Imperial Majesty the Empress of Russia. 
 
 It is by my own initiative, and with the desire of testi- 
 fying to a touching truth, that I give this writing to 
 Miss Kate Marsden, feeling sure that every Russian 
 would be ready to do the same. 
 
 The work Miss Kate Marsden has undertaken in our 
 country is so important, so full of humanitarian charity, 
 that we cannot fail to see in Miss Marsden an instrument 
 chosen by the Lord himself to alleviate the condition — 
 moral as well as physical — of the poor lepers. Upheld 
 by God, and by her great faith in him, Miss Marsden 
 
 197 
 
198 Appendix. 
 
 has in a very short time laid the first fonndation of a 
 colony destined to create a new existence for these miser- 
 able outcasts. Her love for them never wavered before 
 any obstacle, and this same love has kindled many hearts 
 which have been united by her generous idea. 
 
 Our august Sovereign herself has deigned to give Miss 
 Marsden proofs of her sympathy, receiving her several 
 times ; and, being deeply touched by her Christian de- 
 votion, she had the kindness to grant her her protection, 
 and to help her to accomplish her journey in Siberia. 
 We will have the possibility of reading the stirring details 
 some day. 
 
 The immense difficulties Miss Marsden has over- 
 come have only deepened her zeal for her cause, 
 for which she would willingly give her life, as she has 
 already given her health. May all generous souls who 
 know how to appreciate such sacrifices unite with us in 
 asking God to bless this work and the one who has con- 
 secrated herself to it. 
 
 Countess A. Tolstoi. 
 Lady of Honor to her Majesty 
 
 The Empress of Russia. 
 
 Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, May 13, 1892. 
 
 II. 
 
 Testimonial. 
 Deeply Respected and Christ-loving Miss Marsden: 
 The fatal hour of separation has come. It is a sore 
 trial for me to bid you farewell. You have animated us, 
 and have roused in us a deep feeling of love for our suf- 
 fering ones, which up to now had only existed for us in 
 the traditions connected with our Lord and Saviour Jesus 
 Christ. Your courage, notwithstanding all the threats, 
 
Appendix. 199 
 
 when starting for Siberia into the depths of a distant 
 country to help the lepers ; your work there among 
 people whose language even was unknown to you ; your 
 self-denial to alleviate the condition of these forgotten 
 sufferers for so many years — all this has greatly endeared 
 you to me ; and I pray the Almighty to strengthen and 
 protect your precious life so that you may see the reali- 
 zation of the colony in Viluisk of the Yakutsk govern- 
 ment, which, as a bright angel, you planned and prayed 
 for. Rest assured that your work will not remain un- 
 fruitful in truly philanthropic Moscow, as well as in 
 our Society of Ants, which has been roused by your 
 incessant work in behalf of these perishing people, and 
 especially as it has at its head Madame Strekaloff, a true 
 Christian angel of mercy, as well as warm Christian mem- 
 bers, who have so much sympathy for you and for your 
 sufferers the lepers. We will put all our efforts forth to 
 accomplish all your good desires. We will pray that our 
 Heavenly Father, for the sake of his crucified Son our 
 Saviour, may bring this holy and truly godly work to a 
 full and happy issue. May the Lord protect you. 
 With deep respect and warm love, 
 
 Yours, 
 Agatha Costanda, 
 Wife of the Commander of all 
 
 the troops in Moscow. 
 Moscow, May, 1892. 
 
 III. 
 
 Letter from Father John Vinokouroff. 
 
 Deeply Respected Sister of Mercy : 
 
 I take the liberty of expressing my sincere and true 
 gratitude for your affable attention and good-will toward 
 
2oo Appendix. 
 
 me. I cannot find words tender enough to thank you 
 for your remembrance of so miserable a sinner as myself, 
 so kindly expressed in your letter, written from Irkutsk 
 the 20th September, and also for your photograph. 
 
 My wife and daughter, as well as myself, were so over- 
 joyed at receiving your photograph that we were quite 
 beside ourselves. We did nothing but kiss it and shed 
 tears of joy. Our prayers for your precious health will 
 constantly go up to the Almighty Creator ; and when we 
 are called away from this world, even then will we pray 
 to the Saviour for you. As soon as I got your letter, I 
 went to the lepers living near the administration, and I 
 also went to the one living alone — the one we met on our 
 way along the side of the river. I translated literally 
 into Yakut all that you kindly wrote to them and to me ; 
 and I also read it to all the Yakuts of Sredni Viluisk I 
 met on my way, as well as to those in the administration. 
 They all listened to your information with prayers and 
 tears of joy, and kissed your photograph, which I had 
 taken with me, at the same time making the sign of the 
 Cross, and prostrating themselves to the ground ; in fact, 
 there was no end to our joy, on receipt of your letter. 
 
 But the delight of the poor lepers — my spiritual chil- 
 dren — was indescribable. How can we help being joyful 
 and crying for joy when we think of what God has sent 
 us — a deliverer for our poor unfortunate lepers ! 
 
 All those that heard from me about your letter — about 
 the trouble and work you were doing, and of all that you 
 had kindly sent the unfortunate lepers — all the Yakuts, 
 as well as the lepers themselves, begged of me to lay at 
 your feet their most sincere gratitude. My wife, daugh- 
 ter, and myself also, lay at your feet our most sincere 
 gratitude, wishing you every good thing in this life, but 
 specially good health — this precious gift of God, so 
 
Appendix. 201 
 
 necessary for the continuation of the good work you have 
 begun for my unfortunate spiritual children, the lepers, 
 who are so constantly in your heart and mind. Your 
 letter I had the pleasure of translating into Yakutsk, 
 both for the Golova and the lepers. 
 
 The day after I received your letter I had a service 
 of prayer, for your precious health, in the house of 
 Nicholas Markovitch. All those that accompanied you 
 from Viluisk were present. 
 
 I remain, 
 The humble servant and constant prayer-offerer 
 for the merciful worker, on behalf of the 
 unfortunate lepers, 
 
 Priest John Vinokouroff. 
 November 4, 1891. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Extract from Father Vinokouroff 's Report on the Con- 
 dition of the Lepers. 
 
 Leprosy of Sredni Viluisk. 
 
 Since 1879, when I was appointed to serve in the 
 Sredni Viluisk oulousse, I have had to mix among the 
 lepers living in my parish. When I first came there I 
 used to visit the Viluisk town hospital, which had been 
 organized two or three years before my arrival. After I 
 came there the lepers remained two or three years longer 
 in the hospital, and then by somebody's order — I do not 
 know by whose — they were sent altogether back into the 
 oulousse, to their different nasslegs. Not one of the 
 lepers who entered the hospital was cured, and five of 
 the number died and were buried by me. I also used to 
 visit the leper hospital during Lent to help the lepers 
 
202 Appendix. 
 
 perform their devotions and to administer the Holy 
 Sacrament. The life of the lepers in the hospital was 
 very good under all conditions — first, because every day 
 they saw healthy people ; they could talk with the Yakut 
 keepers of the hospital, from whom they could always 
 get some information about the town ; secondly, they 
 were in warm rooms, and were fed with better and more 
 nourishing food ; thirdly, they used every day to see the 
 Russian feldsher, who gave them some medical help, 
 though the said help was utterly useless. . . 
 
 As soon as a Yakut recognizes a leper among them — 
 be it father, mother, brother, sister, son, or daughter — 
 immediately he is thrust out from the family forever, and 
 never has any further connection with them during the 
 whole of his life. He is sent ten or twenty versts away 
 from his home, where he has to remain to the end of his 
 life alone, unless there happens to be some other unfor- 
 tunate leper sent from the community to share his miser- 
 able fate. . . 
 
 When there are only one or two lepers together, and 
 they do not appear at the appointed time to fetch their 
 food, then the whole of the community of the nassleg 
 assemble and choose the bravest among them, who is 
 hired for a sum of money, collected from the whole of 
 the community, to go to the lepers and see whether they 
 are dead or not, or perhaps have got to the condition of 
 being unable to move about. They try and place several 
 lepers together, and in the case of those that are in a very 
 advanced state of disease the others that are in a better 
 state can help them, and in case of death the lepers who 
 are in a better condition can bury those who die. 
 
 On the whole of the earth you will not find men in so 
 miserable a condition as the Sredni Viluisk lepers. The 
 name leper is used by the Russian tchinovnicks who are 
 
Appendix. 203 
 
 sent for service into the Viluisk Circuit as a swear word. 
 In fact, the whole of the Sredni Viluisk oulousse is con- 
 sidered so bad a place that it is called the leper place. 
 
 Although besides the Sredni Viluisk oulousse there 
 are other lepers to be found in other oulousses, these 
 latter lepers hide from the authorities, and therefore are 
 not known. . . 
 
 During the time of my twelve years' service we had 
 epidemics of smallpox, measles, scarlet fever, and viru- 
 lent quinsy. During the time of these epidemics all my 
 efforts to convince them that it was necessary to isolate 
 those patients only resulted in the answer that, as it was 
 not leprosy, they did not see the need of doing it. Why 
 trouble? All would not die ; but only those appointed 
 to do so by God. They used to say that all these diseases 
 were sent by God, but leprosy was sent by the devil. 
 
 This paper was received by me from the priest, Father 
 John Vinokouroff, of the Lioutchinsky parish of the 
 Sredni Viluisk oulousse, living in the town of Viluisk, of 
 the Yakutsk government, to remit to Miss Kate Marsden. 
 I received the paper June 17, 1891, in the Sredni Viluisk 
 native administration. 
 
 (Signed) Petroff, 
 Tchinovnick for special service to the 
 Yakutsk Governor. 
 
 V. 
 
 An expression of deep gratitude from Gregory Eremeiejf, 
 Go/ova, or C/u'ef of the Sredni Viluisk District. 
 
 To Miss Kate Marsden : 
 
 Being the golova, or chief, of this oulousse I escorted 
 you throughout it, visiting all the haunts of my leper 
 
2o4 Appendix. 
 
 people, and I now have the honor to present to you, 
 dear madam, from myself and from the whole of my 
 tribe (oulousse) the expression of our great and heart- 
 felt thanks for your charitable and brave undertaking in 
 going through most impassable parts of my oulousse, so 
 as to visit and help my poor lepers. Also if I may ex- 
 press my earnest desire framed in this request, I beg 
 that, if possible, you will lay at the feet of Her Imperial 
 Majesty the Empress the expression of our loyal and 
 devoted love and gratitude for Her Imperial Majesty's 
 immediate protection of our unfortunate lepers. 
 
 Consequently, using simple expressions, being an un- 
 educated man, and much troubled by the sufferings of 
 these unfortunate people, I must say I find your great 
 journey similar to that when our Saviour Jesus Christ, 
 who was born on earth years ago, and having to bear all 
 kinds of trials, saved the human race ; and thus, while 
 making the sign of the Cross, our hearts full, we glance 
 up to heaven, saying the sun has risen, full of bright 
 mercy and joy, over us and our unfortunate sick people. 
 O Lord, what a kind and merciful deliverance of such 
 unfortunate people ! He is working for us through you. 
 It is all so precious to us ; and what a recompense you 
 will have from the King of Heaven and of Earth for such 
 charity and liberality ! For our own sakes, Lord, pro- 
 tect this good lady, and all her fellow-travelers, so that 
 she may reach her own country well and happy. 
 
 (Signed) Gregory Yakovleff Eremeieff, 
 Golova (chief of the tribe). 
 
Appendix. 205 
 
 VI. 
 
 Letter from V. Paramonoff, doctor s assistant, who went 
 with me from Viluisk to visit the lepers. 
 
 Miss Marsden. 
 
 Dear Madam : It was with heartfelt joy that I re- 
 ceived the news of your safe arrival in Irkutsk, and I 
 pray that God may give you strength to fulfill to the end 
 the gracious and high commission of our kind mother. 
 Her Majesty the Empress. 
 
 From this time the unfortunate suffering lepers— cast 
 away from all people, whose dreadful position God forbid 
 that anyone should even have a sight of — have a loving 
 mother in their Supreme Empress, and a sister in you, 
 who has consecrated all her strength and life to alleviate 
 as much as possible their truly bitter existence. 
 
 Thank God that he has given me an opportunity of 
 being of some little help in this holy work. 
 
 As a citizen and Christian I am bound to express my 
 sincere gratitude for the hearty interest and self-sacrifice, 
 which it is not possible to describe, but which, as your 
 constant fellow-traveler, I saw in every step of your 
 difficult and dangerous journey, full of every possible 
 privation. 
 
 Your truly highly Christian manner with the patients, 
 your tears which you tried to conceal from us, and only 
 gave them free course when hidden behind some leper 
 hut, but which you could not quite hide from those who 
 were watching your every step so as to protect you, and 
 enable you to fulfill the sacred will of Her Majesty the 
 Empress, whose heart was in each word of comfort you 
 spoke to the unfortunate sufferers — your more than hearty 
 manner to the natives, and your help in their needs, and, 
 at last, your manner with all your fellow-travelers, myself 
 
to6 
 
 in the number, cannot be remembered otherwise than with 
 sincere pleasure. No need to thank me ; it was no 
 trouble to carry out your instructions with regard to the 
 lepers, but a high moral enjoyment, tor your energy and 
 warmth ot heart permeated us all. As we looked at you — 
 a woman so courageous, bearing the difficult journey and 
 sleepless nights, after which you could hardly keep in 
 your saddle, and yet for the work's sake doing ninety 
 versts a day — your energy and Christian self-denial 
 seemed to us, who were accustomed to hardships, in- 
 credible ; and your warm friendly manner in the ta 
 (vast marshy forest), under the open sky, by the light of a 
 flaming wood-pile, when, after the labor oi theday, we used 
 to share our scanty morsel, and the general interest in the 
 work — all this has drawn us closer together, so that I con- 
 fess it was hard to say good-by to you in Yakutsk, 
 
 Accept the assurance of the deep respect and devotion 
 of your humble servant. 
 
 V, Paramonofe, 
 
 Viluisk. Yakutsk Government, 
 
 November 4, 1S91. 
 
 VII, 
 
 Letters v-.> 
 
 Our Loving PATRONESS, Miss Marsden : 
 
 We thank you very much for the great gifts you 
 have sent us. which we have only just received. We will 
 always pray to God for you. We are still living in the 
 same way as when you visited us. The frightful disease 
 is torturing us in our miserable little huts ; and we are 
 suffering from cold and, in addition, from hunger. Only 
 God alone knows and sees our wretched life. Last sum- 
 mer the crops failed ; so that now the community cannot 
 even give us one pound oi flour, and we have not even a 
 
Appendix. 207 
 
 proper kettle to boil our tea in. Lord, protect our bene- 
 factress, Miss Marsden, like the apple of thine eye. 
 
 Our Kind and Philanthropic Miss Kate Marsden : 
 
 This day we have had the happiness to receive 
 your holy gifts, and also your letter, for which we have 
 given a receipt. We thank you from the depths of our 
 hearts. The Lord Jesus Christ will grant you heavenly 
 and earthly happiness. We have to inform you that we 
 live in a sad condition, suffering from cold and hunger 
 in addition to our terrible disease. You yourself have 
 witnessed our unfortunate existence. Our hope is in 
 God, and in you for charitable help. We are constantly 
 praying to God for your health and long life. May the 
 Lord God bless you. After your visit one of our num- 
 ber died. 
 
 The Lepers 01 Loutchinsky and Togoujsky 
 Nassleg of the Sredni Viluisk OttLOU 
 
 Monday, February 24, 1892. 
 
 The above letters were written at their request and 
 dictation, and translated into the Russian language by 
 me — Yakut, government writer, 
 
 Vasilliy Nikolaeff Novine. 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Protocol No. j, of the Yakutsk Provincial Committee for 
 Public Jfealth ; sitting of the Slh February, 1890, con- 
 cer?iin% the preventive measures to be take?i for leprosy. 
 
 Were present : President, the Governor V. L. Ko- 
 lenko ; Members of the Committee, the Vice-Governor P. 
 P. Ostashkin, the Chief Councilor of the Provincial 
 Administration, K. C. Finistoff, Medical Inspector M. 
 
2o8 Appendix, 
 
 M. Smirnoff, the Provincial Veterinary Surgeon S. Y. 
 Dmitrieff, the Police Master V. V. Souchatcheff, the 
 Yakutsk. Ispravnick E. D, Klimovsky, the Collegiate 
 Councilor V. G. Gal 1 man n. 
 
 The Governor while inspecting the Yiluisk Circuit 
 was convinced of the necessity of taking definite meas- 
 ures for leprosy, which is spreading more and more in the 
 Viluisk Circuit, threatening, by its further development, 
 to become a national calamity. In consequence of this, 
 he finds it absolutely necessary to bring the question of 
 preventive measures for leprosy before the Committee for 
 Public Health for their deliberation. From the report 
 of the tchinovnick for special services, Collegiate Secre- 
 tary P. Schachourdine, who had been specially sent into 
 the Viluisk Circuit by the Governor of the Province, we 
 learn that in the Sredni Viluisk oulousse of the Viluisk 
 Circuit a frightful disease has existed from olden times, 
 called leprosy, and it has been acknowledged by law 
 (c. xiii.) to be exceedingly contagious. The natives who 
 fall victims to this dreadful disease are provided with 
 food, sometimes with cattle, and are sent into the depths 
 of the forest under strict command never to appear in the 
 dwellings of the healthy Yakuts, and in general to keep 
 away. Food is provided for these patients from the 
 village to which they belong, and this food is brought to 
 a certain spot in the forest, known to the lepers, generally 
 in a sufficient quantity so as to prevent the latter coming 
 for the food in case of insufficiency. 
 
 About ten years ago two hospitals were opened, one at 
 a place called Latchina, in the Sredni Viluisk oulousse, 
 and the other in the town of Viluisk. The first of these 
 hospitals was under the direction of Dr. Krasnoff and 
 the medical assistant Antonovitch ; the second under Dr. 
 Bergmann. Both hospitals were especially for leper 
 
Appendix. 209 
 
 patients. But these hospitals, having given no satisfac- 
 tory results, were closed. 
 
 The symptoms of leprosy are the following : On the 
 patient's face and cheeks a very noticeable red color ap- 
 pears, the eyes get dull, and a special thoughtfulness is 
 noticed in the eyes. The eyebrows and eyelashes fall 
 off, and gradually the whole organism of the patient 
 becomes disfigured, and finally decays. The leper, ac- 
 cording to the reports of the natives, can live twenty 
 years and more. The natives who have fallen victims to 
 this disease generally live near lakes in the depths of the 
 forests in yourtas (little Yakut huts). The interior of 
 these yourtas is not known to Mr. Schachourdine, as, how- 
 ever much he wanted to get acquainted with the interior 
 of the said huts, he could not get into them on account 
 of the fearful stench, similar to that coming from a dead 
 body, which was due not only to the lepers themselves, but 
 also to the food that they use, consisting chiefly of rotten 
 fish. This food is generally eaten by the inhabitants of 
 the Sredni Viluisk oulousse ; it is called chochtu and 
 siema, and is prepared from small lake fish called mundu, 
 in the following way. Some of these fish are dried in the 
 sun, in a very careless fashion, without any preliminary 
 cleaning ; it is then called chochtu, and used for soup ; 
 some are put in a specially prepared hole in the ground, 
 which is covered with bark of tree, and, when thoroughly 
 decomposed, is called siema, and used as food, without 
 salt or bread ; the latter is not even used by the 
 wealthy Yakuts, whereas the poor people have no idea of 
 it at all. 
 
 Some lepers have wives and children, and are able to 
 rear cattle in a very small way. They also hunt hares, 
 squirrels, ermines, and foxes. The skins of these ani- 
 mals, it is said, they use only for themselves, as healthy 
 
2io Appendix. 
 
 Yakuts will never venture to take anything from the 
 hands of a leper ; but this last statement may be doubted. 
 In 1887 the administration of the Sredni Viluisk ou- 
 lousse had the names of fifty lepers ; but in reality there 
 must be, if not three times, at least twice as many ; as 
 those lepers who are not of the poorest class endeavor 
 in every possible way to remain in their homes, thus hid- 
 ing- the disease from the others. To ascertain the right 
 number of lepers, it would necessitate a strict individual 
 inspection of the whole of the population of the Sredni 
 Viluisk oulousse. 
 
 The disease has passed into the neighboring oulousse 
 — that is, the Verchni Viluisk oulousse, where ten men 
 are already noted to have the disease. In the villages of 
 Tchougouisk, Chalbatsk, and Namsk, the disease is not 
 on the decrease, but, on the contrary, on the increase, be- 
 cause, firstly, the lepers who live by the lakes — Oupar- 
 dach of the Louchinsky nassleg (Yakut village), and 
 Djikimda of the Moukoutchinski nassleg — wash them- 
 selves in the summer in these lakes, as well as throw into 
 them all their refuse, thus contaminating and infecting 
 the water, which is used for food by the healthy natives 
 living on the opposite side ; secondly, from the numbers 
 of lepers who are still hiding among the healthy Yakuts, 
 for fear of being sent into the depth of the forest ; 
 thirdly, from the very bad hygienic and sanitary condi- 
 tions of the life of the natives, and on account of the 
 food which we have already described, and which they 
 continually use. 
 
 In view of protecting the general health of the people, 
 Mr. Schachourdine, the local ispravnick, made the fol- 
 lowing propositions to the native administration of 
 Sredni Viluisk on the 14th of March, 1888, under No. 
 139, and to the starostas of the nasslegs. First, to build 
 
Appendix. 211 
 
 in three different places, at some distance from the 
 dwellings of the healthy natives, three Russian izbas 
 (Russian peasant-houses), with all the necessary out- 
 buildings, in a locality where there would be running 
 water, and to use them as shelters for the lepers, two of 
 the houses for men, and the third specially for women. 
 Secondly, the expense for maintaining these unfortunate 
 sufferers was to be met yearly by the whole oulousse, and 
 not only by those villages from which the lepers came. 
 Thirdly, to strictly watch the lepers, so as to prevent the 
 men and women having any communication, and that 
 they should not leave their dwellings under a strict 
 threat of being thrust back into the forest whence they 
 had been taken. Under these conditions, Mr. Schachour- 
 dine thought the lepers would not hide themselves, but 
 would come and settle in this shelter, which would be 
 provided with all necessaries, and also, communication 
 between the sexes being prevented, the possibility would 
 be gained of freeing the population altogether of lepers, 
 as they would gradually die out. However, the native 
 chiefs of the said oulousse seemingly were not willing to 
 better the condition of their present dirty existence. On 
 the 20th January of the past year, on receipt of the prop- 
 osition made by Mr. Schachourdine, they gave a nega- 
 tive answer. At the same time they made the following 
 comment to the proposition under No. 139 : " We have 
 heard the proposition made by the Viluisk Provincial 
 Ispravnick, No. 135, respecting the organization of the 
 shelter for the lepers. We will discuss the above propo- 
 sition and fulfill it when free from the corn and tribute 
 tax, and when the condition of the rural economy of the 
 natives of the Sredni Viluisk oulousse will be bettered." 
 In reporting the above, the tchinovnick Schachourdine 
 adds that the organization of shelters for the lepers and 
 
2i2 Appendix. 
 
 vigilant supervision will check the crimes that take place 
 among them. The investigation into the said crimes 
 is always accompanied with much danger for the doc- 
 tors, and other official people, who are bound by their 
 office to question the lepers and to examine leper bodies. 
 At the same time, should the investigation be successfully 
 accomplished, it will hardly ever carry out its purpose, as 
 it is not possible to punish lepers convicted of crime 
 by bodily punishment or by sentence of penal servitude. 
 According to information gathered during the visit of 
 the Governor to the Viluisk Circuit, by personal conversa- 
 tion with the Golova, the Secretary, and the starostas of 
 the six nassiegs of the Sredni Viluisk oulousse, we see 
 that, from 1887, the disease spread from nine to eleven 
 nassiegs of the said oulousse ; that there were cases of 
 leprosy already in the Verchni Viluisk oulousse, where 
 formerly the disease had not existed ; that the number 
 of lepers of the nassiegs had augmented since 1887 by 
 12 people — from 33 to 45— that is, more than 36 per 
 cent, in two years; and that, -at present, according to 
 private information, there are 80 lepers. But this- 
 number cannot be considered definite and exact, as many 
 of the lepers try in every possible way to hide their 
 disease and to remain among their people, so as to- 
 escape the miserable fate of their leper brethren. 
 
 The doctor had in 18S7 visited the lepers living at 
 Hatignach. There were only four lepers at that time ; 
 later, the number increased to eight. They live in 
 three yourtas. There is one woman in their number, and 
 a child of ten. The starosta (village elder) saw only one 
 of their number able to walk and chop wood ; the other 
 patients were all lying down. 
 
Appendix. 213 
 
 Yankonsky JVass/eg, near the River Djerbianga. 
 
 Here has lived one leper, alone, for six years ; he is a 
 young man. About two versts from his hut live his 
 mother and brother, who bring him his food and place it 
 just inside the door, but never go in, for fear of contagion. 
 The patient is always lying, and it is with great difficulty 
 that he can move or crawl, which he is obliged to do to 
 light his fire and prepare his food. 
 
 The Viluisk police administration has been instructed 
 to gather information about the present number of lepers 
 in the Viluisk Circuit, and, at the same time, to obtain the 
 different names of the places where they are placed, and 
 the distance of each place. The number presented of the 
 lepers in the Viluisk Circuit does not show the exact 
 number of lepers ; there are far more, as in these numbers 
 are not included those who are suspected of leprosy, 
 but still remain with their healthy families and relations, 
 as well as the wealthy lepers who are able to hide them- 
 selves for some longtime without being discovered, until 
 the disease gets to its severe form. From the long 
 existence of leprosy the thinly populated and poorest 
 Sredni Viluisk oulousse is overburdened by its leper 
 members and their poverty stricken families ; that is the 
 reason why the arrears of their government taxes and 
 social corn taxes are always on the increase. 
 
 According to the personal information of the golova, 
 the secretary of the Sredni Viluisk oulousse, as well as of 
 the six starostas of the nasslegs, almost all the lepers 
 belong to the poorer natives, so that the maintenance of 
 them, as well as paying the taxes for them, lies as a heavy 
 weight on their separate native communities. There- 
 fore, government help is considered by the population as 
 absolutely necessary, if it were only in freeing the lepers 
 
a 1 4 . / ^ \ 
 
 from the arrears of then- taxes, [n general leprosy and 
 its spread is considered by the natives to be their great- 
 est calamity, ami they beg for immediate help from the 
 local government 
 No less consideration and attention is demanded by 
 
 the position of the lepers themselves, which is in reality 
 miserable and even dreadful. The duties oi Christianity 
 as well as philanthropy and government eare o\o not 
 allow oi any further inactivity in this most important 
 business, which appeals at once for resolute measures to 
 be taken for checking this ever growing national calamity, 
 In view oi this the government directed the committee to 
 pay special attention to this question, seemingly forgotten 
 for many years, and at onee to bring it up for considera- 
 tion ; also what measures and what means can be found 
 and applied to give help to the lepers a\\o\ to better the 
 condition of their lives, and also to prevent the further 
 spread of the disease, and. in fact, to check it altogether. 
 
 The Medical Inspector Smirnoff states that leprosy has 
 as yet been but little investigated. The existence oi 
 leprosy in the Yiluisk Circuit has been known for many 
 years past, and different eases of the disease have been 
 yearly placed in the medical reports. From the docu- 
 ments existing in the inspection and in the provincial 
 administration we see that the local administration has 
 tried to check the disease : but all their efforts were 
 fruitless, or could not be continued tor lack of meant. 
 
 It is the general opinion that the cause of the disease 
 must exist in the local condition oi the country, as well as 
 in the household condition oi theSrcdni Yiluisk oulousse 
 natives. The country, as is already known, is very 
 thinly populated, and has an abundance of stagnant 
 waters. The household conditions oi the native inhabit- 
 ants are most miserable. The tilth, the lack oi food and 
 
Appendix. 2 1 5 
 
 water, the use of rotten fish without salt, etc. — all this, we 
 may suppose, helps to spread the disease. 
 
 At the same time the attention of the committee was 
 directed to the following : that to check leprosy meas- 
 ures had been taken from i860 to 1882 by Bending 
 special doctors and organizing special hospitals, which, 
 however, were closed ; and that, in view of the importance 
 of the present state of things, and the lack of full details, 
 it is absolutely necessary to get more thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with the local condition of the district, and of 
 the disease; also with all the different conditions of the 
 life of the natives ; but, owing to the small number of 
 medical men and the lack of proper scientific appliances 
 in the town of Yakutsk, there is absolutely no one who 
 could undertake this task. The committee coincided 
 with the above, but stated that, although the present 
 means, both medical and financial, were quite inadequate 
 for the said task, which could only be intrusted to those 
 specially prepared and appointed for it ; yet the prepar- 
 ations for further investigation — collecting all details 
 about the spread of leprosy, and about the measures 
 previously taken for it — could be undertaken at present 
 with the means at hand. To accomplish this it would be 
 necessary to appoint a committee of men well informed 
 with the local conditions, as well as interested in the said 
 question, who would be able to carry out the above 
 mentioned work under the direction of the medical 
 inspector, and with the help of the local administration. 
 The accomplishment of this aim, in the sense of deciding 
 the question of the necessary measures and means for 
 checking leprosy — the question being connected with 
 the study of medicine — is anything but an easy < 
 as it means a good deal of work and expense in 
 investigating the said places. The opinion of the com- 
 
2 1 6 Appendix. 
 
 mittee is that it is absolutely necessary to petition the 
 Head Governor of the province for his help in the present 
 work by sending special people competent for this diffi- 
 cult work of checking the disease, as well as in giving the 
 medical assistance for the investigation of the local con- 
 ditions, such as the state of the water, of the food, etc. — 
 persons who would be able to bring out how far these 
 conditions aided the spread of leprosy, and who would, at 
 the same time, be able to give good advice about the 
 measures for checking, and altogether exterminating, 
 this disease. The carrying out of all these suggestions, 
 taking into consideration all that has been said above, 
 could only be done when the first steps suggested had 
 been adopted, which will at once clearly show what 
 measures the local administration could take for com- 
 bating leprosy. It would be desirable to have this infor- 
 mation by the month of May of this year, so as to have 
 time to petition the Head Governor of the province for 
 his help in sending competent men during the coming 
 summer, as that is the most convenient time for com- 
 mencing this work. On this ground the committee de- 
 cided as follows : First, to form a special commission, 
 under the presidency of the Medical Inspector Smirnoff, 
 with the help of the tchinovnick for special services, 
 M. S. Schachourdine, as he had formerly been the Viluisk 
 ispravnick, also the Collegiate Councilor Gollmann, as 
 one who had taken part in 1880 in taking measures to 
 prevent the spread of leprosy, and also other people 
 appointed by the president of the commission, who 
 must be well acquainted with the local conditions, and 
 also the position of the disease. The aim of this com- 
 mission will be to study the documents already existing 
 in the provincial administration concerning leprosy ; to 
 make known the former measures which have been taken 
 
Appendix. 217 
 
 to check this disease ; to explain reasons why these 
 measures have not been carried out or continued ; and to 
 gather present information about the condition of the 
 disease, and the best way of combating this disease now, 
 so that when the question may be fully decided by the 
 Provincial Council measures maybe adopted in due form. 
 Secondly, to ask His Excellency if he would not himself 
 give some suggestion in the interest of deciding the 
 present important business. 
 
 IX. 
 
 Medical Inspector s Report to His Excellency the Civil 
 Governor of the Yakutsk Province. 
 
 In presenting the report of my excursion to the villages 
 of Sredni Viluisk, which I undertook by the command of 
 Your Excellency, dated January 19 of the present year, 
 No. 175, and of February 14 of the same year, No. 389, 
 I have the honor to report that, according to instruction 
 given, I also visited the nomad villages of Markinsk and 
 Suntar of the Viluisk Circuit, so as to ascertain the needs 
 of the population with respect to medical assistance. 
 This visit convinced me that the population of the dis- 
 trict is totally deprived of the said assistance. The one 
 district doctor, with his two assistant surgeons, is not able 
 to give help to a population of 70,000 souls, scattered 
 over an immense expanse of land, as large as the whole 
 of France, especially as this doctor stationed at Viluisk 
 only leaves the town to visit any part of the district 
 when called by the administration for cases specially 
 demanding legal medical assistance, so that the medical 
 advice he gives to any of the sick natives he finds on his 
 way is only casual, and ends in nothing. The rest of the 
 
2 1 8 Appe?idix. 
 
 population, in case of disease, is without any assistance ; 
 and yet I have positively ascertained that, among the 
 inhabitants of the district, there are many cases of dif- 
 ferent diseases, such as ophthalmia, fevers, syphilis, and, 
 from time to time, epidemics of smallpox, chicken-pox 
 and scarlet fever, whooping-cough, and many others. 
 
 Syphilis, in its third form, previously studied, is mak- 
 ing immense progress, especially in the nomad village of 
 Markinsk, where often cases of the same disease, but in 
 its primary form, may be found. On positive authority 
 it is asserted that syphilis in its primary form is im- 
 ported from the gold mines, especially from those of 
 Vitim. 
 
 Considering the more than pitiable position of the 
 native population of the Viluisk district, my opinion is 
 that it is indispensable to appoint a rural doctor, who 
 would have to live in the center of the district, and to 
 choose several important places in the same district 
 where assistant surgeons could be appointed, entirely 
 under the direction of the said doctor. My opinion is 
 that it would be best to appoint a feldsher (assistant 
 surgeon) for each nomad village. 
 
 (Signed) Medical Inspector Smirnoff. 
 
 Information with respect to leprosy gathered during the 
 excursion to the nomad villages of Sredni Viluisk for 
 the purpose of die eking the spread of the said disease. 
 
 Arriving at Viluisk on February 24 of the present 
 year I gave notice to the local police to inform all the 
 starostas (chiefs of the village) of the villages of Sredni 
 Viluisk that they had to appear on March 3 at the local 
 administration of Sredni Viluisk, where they would 
 learn : First, the purport of my excursion, and to enable 
 them personally to give me all information, how many 
 
Appendix. 219 
 
 lepers there were, and where they were to be found, and 
 which was the best way to get at them. Secondly, to 
 decide, with other assistants, the best measures for iso- 
 lating the lepers, and especially for separating the two 
 sexes, appointing distant localities for each, as far as 
 possible one from the other. It became evident at this 
 meeting that the isolation of the lepers had been strictly 
 observed for some long time past. 
 
 The natives, dreading the contagion of leprosy, watch 
 each other very carefully, and as soon as they discover 
 the slightest trace of the existence of the germ of the 
 disease, they at once submit the suspected individual to 
 a formal inspection. This inspection is made by several 
 of the older members of the community, who are well 
 acquainted with the symptoms of the disease. They 
 rarely make any mistakes in their decision ; and, having 
 myself verified seventy-four individuals, stated to be 
 lepers, I only found one woman having another malady, 
 and that was syphilis ; though there is a great re- 
 semblance in the symptoms of this second disease. 
 Among the lepers I found several who had only fallen 
 victims to the disease quite recently, and therefore it 
 was difficult to define the disease accurately. With re- 
 spect to the separation of the sexes the community is of 
 opinion that this measure is indispensable, as experience 
 has proved that leper parents give birth to children 
 having the germ of the disease, even when only one of 
 the parents was a leper. But the immediate application 
 of this measure presents great difficulties. Firstly, there 
 not being the necessary number of dwellings, and then 
 the construction of the latter could not be effected until 
 the warm weather sets in. Fully aware of the im- 
 possibility of constructing dwellings at present, on 
 account of the winter season, I suggested that the village 
 
2 20 Appendix. 
 
 should divide all the lepers among them, keeping the 
 sexes apart. My suggestion was unanimously accepted. 
 Continuing my journey I presently, myself, made this 
 translocation of sexes, and was convinced that the 
 application of this measure was possible even in winter, 
 and that it was only due to the negligence of the 
 starostas that the two sexes were placed or lodged to- 
 gether. 
 
 According to the indications given by the authorities 
 of the village and of the local administration, and pro- 
 vided with a list of the lepers and the places of their dwell- 
 ings, I began my inspection of the villages. During my 
 excursion I inspected seventy-four individuals suffering 
 from leprosy, and who were separated from the rest of 
 the population. I found among them : (i) Five men in 
 perfect health, and five children temporarily well (I shall 
 mention these children later) ; (2) six individuals re- 
 cently settled, and not mentioned on the list ; (3) two 
 individuals suffering from other diseases — one from 
 syphilis and the other from inflammation of the sinews 
 of both hands. This latter patient was only suspected 
 of having leprosy. In general, I found sixty-two adult 
 lepers and five children temporarily well, which makes 
 sixty-seven individuals altogether. (4) Thirteen indi- 
 viduals already dead, but not taken off the list ; and (5) 
 ten individuals who could not be found. Three of these, 
 according to the reports of the inhabitants, were hiding 
 not far from Gigansk., 
 
 The disease, according to the most scientific investiga- 
 tion, manifests itself under two quite different forms — 
 Lepra Tuberculosis and Lepra Ancest/ietiea. 
 
 The first form is called tuberculosis, because the skin of 
 the face and of the body gradually becomes uneven and 
 rough, and is covered with pimples of different forms and 
 
Appendix. 221 
 
 dimensions. In general, this form has a great resemblance 
 to syphilis in its third form, and the same destructive 
 power is observed. In the two cases the cartilages of the 
 roof of the mouth and of the nose and of the larynx are 
 attacked and destroyed, and, at the same time, the extremi- 
 ties of the joints get lacerated, and, very probably, the 
 interior organs as well, such as the liver and lungs. This 
 form of the disease is specially noticed among the in- 
 habitants of the second and third and partly of the fourth, 
 Toguisky village, which is next to the others. Second, 
 the AncEstheiic form of leprosy is the most prevalent. 
 This second form of the disease does not inspire as much 
 horror and disgust. The face and body generally remain 
 perfectly pure, and only very rarely are covered with 
 very slight pale eruptions. The eyebrows and the eye- 
 lashes completely disappear. Although the nutriment of 
 the body remains unaltered, what is strikingly observed 
 at the very beginning of the disease is the overfilling of 
 the subcutaneous veins, especially on the chest, so that 
 the skin appears to be covered with a dark-colored net, 
 and they completely lose the possibility of feeling even 
 the sense of pain. The power of movement remains un- 
 impaired. In cases of this form of the disease, the slow 
 and painless loss of the fingers and toes, as far as the 
 cartilages, is observed. The loss of larger parts of the 
 body I did not notice. The greater part of them died of 
 chronic inflammation of the lungs. As regards the con- 
 tagion of leprosy, the natives state that not only is it 
 hereditary, but certainly contagious, and is communi- 
 cated by the leper to those in perfect health. But to 
 this general rule there are sometimes exceptions, and the 
 same natives showed me several married couples, who, 
 though living together, had not transmitted the disease 
 one to the other. 
 
222 Appendix. 
 
 I found among the lepers five individuals in perfect 
 health. Three of these were very poor, and of their own 
 accord had settled with their parents. The other two 
 had been isolated, as being suspected of having leprosy. 
 The natives told me that up to the present time they 
 have never known a case where healthy individuals, 
 living with r lepers of their own accord, had got the 
 disease. However, when I wished to separate five 
 children, aged about ten years, and who appeared in 
 perfect health, the natives positively objected t'o this, 
 stating that, as the disease was hereditary, and the 
 parents of these children had been lepers, the children 
 would, sooner or later, inevitably become lepers also. 
 The apparent healthy state generally lasts up to the 
 age of fourteen, and, after that,' the disease makes its 
 appearance and becomes dangerous for those around. 
 Experience has proved that children who appeared in 
 perfect health have, later on, developed the disease, and 
 communicated it to healthy individuals near them. In 
 reality, I had the occasion to observe several adults, who 
 were born in the colony of leper parents, with marked 
 symptoms of the disease. In the village of Makout- 
 chinsky a little girl of twelve already had the first signs 
 of the disease, such as pains of the armsand legs, loss of 
 the eyebrows and eyelashes, dryness of the skin, and a 
 particular inexplicable expression of the eyes, especially 
 characteristic in this disease. 
 
 The Conditions of Existence of the Lepers. 
 
 The authorities of the district and the inhabitants 
 in general endeavor to settle the lepers in so-called 
 dead places, unfit for the use of the healthy, and, at the 
 same time, as far away as possible from all othef habita- 
 tions, roads, tracks, and footpaths. Huts are built for 
 
Appendix. 223 
 
 them in the middle of the forest in dead places, and in 
 the close vicinity of small lakes. These huts are pro- 
 vided with chimneys, but not with any of the indispen- 
 sable household utensils. It is only the poorest natives 
 that get this terrible disease ; the rich, and even those 
 tolerably well-off, seldom have it. Food is provided for 
 these unfortunate people by the community once or 
 twice a week, and consists of meat, fish, in various forms 
 (more often sour or rotten), tea, and milk. The patients 
 did not complain of the insufficiency of food, some even 
 said that when in health they were never fed as well. 
 It sometimes happens that the food is not brought to 
 them at the appointed time, and the patients have to 
 suffer from hunger for two or three days ; but these 
 cases are rare. It is only against the isolation, the want 
 of medical assistance, and the complete inaction that 
 their complaints are incessant. One is struck at the 
 smallness of the nomad huts they live in ; the light 
 hardly penetrates, and the air is so infected by the 
 conglomeration of the patients, the dirt, and exhalations 
 from the rotten fish, that one is suffocated on entering 
 them. These unfortunate beings have neither beds nor 
 linen, and their clothing consists solely of sheep-skins 
 and cow skins all in rags. And it is in these conditions* 
 without any change, that they are obliged to live tens 
 of years, till at last death releases them. Not far from 
 these nomad huts are graves with crosses, showing the 
 spots where the lepers bury each other. Some villages, 
 such as the second, fourth, and partly third Toguisky, 
 are an exception, and show an example to the others by 
 providing their lepers with larger and better aired huts, 
 building them in less savage localities, thus forming a 
 kind of colony. The locality they have chosen is near 
 a lake, and is not only good but picturesque ; the huts 
 
224 Appendix. 
 
 are spacious and light. Besides the huts there are 
 other constructions indispensable for a household. The 
 patients are provided with nine cows and fields, and thus 
 lead a life which does not differ in any way from the 
 lives of the natives in general. The one thing that these 
 sufferers need is medical help, which is indispensable, 
 especially as leprosy is often complicated with syphilis. 
 I add, lower, the detailed itinerary of my excursion in the 
 colonies, with a short account of the conditions of exist- 
 ence in each one, and the number of patients each one 
 shelters. Besides this, I state the directions I gave about 
 separating the sexes, so as to prevent possible births, and 
 the way this separation had to be carried out. Person- 
 ally I separated thirteen individuals, with the exception 
 of some women, too old or in too advanced a state of 
 •disease to bear children ; these I left where I found 
 them. 
 
 Details of the Excursion to the Nomad Villages of Sredni 
 Viluisk. 
 
 The 4th March, 1891, I visited the first group of lepers 
 in the village called third Toguisky. 
 
 The lepers live in a small hut built in a place not far 
 from the lake Hatignach, and about seven versts distant 
 from the local administration. The above mentioned 
 hut is not sufficient in size for the number of lepers it 
 shelters. The door is so small that one is obliged to bend 
 to be able to enter. The hut is very low and hardly any 
 light enters, and the atmosphere is so foul that even the 
 fire which is continually burning in the fireplace can- 
 not purify it. The filth of this hovel is disgusting ; it 
 contains a dirty table, and a few benches covered with 
 filthy skins in lieu of beds, and nothing else. I found 
 six men and three women huddled together in this 
 
Appendix. 225 
 
 infected hovel. It is inexplicable how so many people 
 can be lodged in so small and low a hut. The clothes of 
 these lepers consist of skins (of cows) all in rags and 
 holes. The form of the disease is anaesthetic. The 
 lepers do not complain of the lack of food. Besides the 
 nine lepers that I found, there was a tenth on the list 
 that died some time past and had not been scratched 
 off the list up to now. 
 
 As there was no special separate dwelling in the 
 village of Toguisky, I ordered the golova (chief of the 
 tribe) to translocate Marie Egoroff to the village of 
 Loutchinsk, and to place her in the hut with another 
 woman, Anna Kirolova, also a leper, living alone with 
 her son aged two years. 
 
 Loutchinsk Village. 
 
 I reached this village on the 6th March. It is situ- 
 ated about 100 versts from the locil administration. 
 Twenty versts farther there is a hut which is inhabited 
 by a family consisting of three people ; and seventy 
 versts beyond this hut there is another, also inhabited 
 by a family of three persons ; twenty-five versts farther 
 still is another hut, in which live one woman and her 
 little son aged two years. On the other side of the local 
 administration, about thirty versts distant, there are two 
 more huts — one inhabited by one man and two women, 
 and the other by one man only, who was brought to 
 where I was stopping, as it was impossible to get to him, 
 even on horseback. The conditions under which these 
 lepers exist were the same as in the village we have just 
 described, only with respect to sanitary arrangements 
 they were a little better off, as there is not so close a 
 conglomeration of lepers here. In one hut I found three 
 individuals, the woman alone being a leper ; her husband 
 
226 Appendix. 
 
 and her daughter, aged seventeen, were quite well, and 
 had of their own accord consented to live with the leper 
 mother. There were five individuals on my list, marked 
 dead ; but I found a mistake in one case, that of the girl 
 Marie Ivanova. The natives state that, although there 
 is a great distance between the huts, the lepers succeed 
 in visiting each other. I gave an order to the legal 
 authorities to be stricter in watching the lepers, so as to 
 prevent these visits, threatening them that, in case of 
 negligence respecting these orders, they would be respon- 
 sible to the local administration, and would be obliged 
 to educate the children that might ensue from these 
 visits. 
 
 The Village of Tebinsk. 
 
 The first group of lepers in this village consisted of 
 four people, and were placed at a distance of thirty 
 versts from the small village Olbout. I visited this hut 
 the ioth March. At a distance of ioo versts from the 
 first group lived two lepers, husband and wife, and to 
 reach them one is obliged to pass the two villages of 
 Kobiansk and Kakouisk. Besides that, a little aside 
 from Tebinsk there is a leper living isolated and alone. 
 The conditions under which these lepers of the village of 
 Tebinsk exist are the same as in the two preceding ones. 
 
 The Village of Kakouisk. 
 
 The hut inhabited by the lepers is placed at the dis- 
 tance of ninety versts from the first group of lepers of 
 the village of Tebinsk. I visited them the 12th March. 
 This hut is inhabited by two lepers. The conditions of 
 existence are always the same. 
 
 The Village of Kobiansk. 
 
 The hut, in which four lepers are placed, is too small 
 for them, and the chimney is all in ruins and ought to 
 
Appendix. 227 
 
 be renovated. Among these four lepers is a woman who 
 is not a leper at all. She came with a sister, who was 
 a leper, and, after this sister died, was not allowed to 
 return, but was compelled to remain with the lepers. 
 
 The Village of Mukutchinsk. 
 
 To reach this village, situated at a distance of twenty- 
 five versts from the administration, we had to turn back 
 on our way and pass through the villages of Tebinsk 
 and Loutchinsk. 
 
 I got there on the 15th March. About twenty versts 
 distant from the local administration, and a little aside 
 in the forest, is a hut inhabited by ten lepers. One can 
 imagine under what conditions they live. Among them, 
 four individuals are in perfect health. Nicholas Vasilieff 
 was placed with the lepers because his parents had been 
 lepers. Ivan Michailoff has been accustomed from his 
 childhood to live with lepers, and remains with them 
 of his own accord. Pelagie Zacharova accompanied her 
 husband of her own accord, who died. As I insisted that 
 these four individuals, who were healthy, should be 
 allowed to return, the natives answered that they would 
 not object to it, but that they knew that these individuals 
 would be obliged to return to the lepers, as no one would 
 allow them to settle near them for fear of contagion. 
 Two little girls were born in this place, one of them 
 already showing signs of this disease. I at once ordered 
 that the women should be separated, especially Pelagie 
 Zacharova ; but the order could not be carried out at 
 once, as there was no empty hut for them. The com- 
 munity promised to build a hut about forty versts away 
 from the last mentioned one, and to place the women 
 there. In this way there will be two sections in the 
 village ; one for men, and one for women. The starosta 
 
228 Appendix. 
 
 (head of the village) is obliged to see this order carried 
 out, and to apprise the local administration as soon as 
 the hut is built. 
 
 About 200 versts from this colony is another one built 
 not far from the lake Mastach. I have already mentioned 
 that four villages —the second, third, fourth Toguisky, 
 and partly Kirguidaiski — have organized a sort of colony 
 for their lepers. This colony is composed of large and 
 clean huts, and even other buildings indispensable for 
 household management. Besides that the lepers have 
 fields for their cattle, which are also provided for them. 
 Meat, fish, tea, and other provisions are sent them every 
 week. Thanks to these measures the lepers live com- 
 fortably, but, unfortunately, the form of their disease is 
 of a very bad nature, and quickly destroys the whole 
 organism, giving the lepers a most awful appearance. 
 This form is observed only in the last named colony. It 
 is I he tuberculosis form, and has a syphilitic basis. In 
 verifying the list of lepers, I found that in the third 
 Toguisky village there are ten lepers, three of whom were 
 absent ; in the second Toguisky, four lepers, one absent ; 
 in the fourth Toguisky, ten lepers ; and at last in the 
 village of kirguidaiski only one leper. I gave instructions 
 to remove live women, and as there was a hut about 
 eighty versts distant, which had formerly been occupied 
 by lepers but now empty, the community promised at 
 once to translocate these live women, and to apprise the 
 local administration of that fact. In the Kirginsk village 
 three lepers were mentioned, but I found none. In the 
 village of (lenkoust. I found three Tongus, two of them 
 lepers, and the third suffering from another disease. In 
 the village of Namsk, two lepers. 
 
 (Signed) Smirnoff, 
 Medical Inspector. 
 
Appendix. 229 
 
 X. 
 
 Resume' of some of the difficulties of my journey among the 
 lepers. Being a translation of a document written by 
 myself in French, and signed by the tchinovnick who 
 acted as my interpreter. 
 
 We left Yakutsk for Viluisk June 22, 1891, to begin 
 our long journey of 3000 versts (2000 miles) on horse- 
 back, for the purpose of visiting the lepers living in 
 forests unknown, even to the Russians. Our cavalcade 
 was somewhat curious, consisting of about fifteen men 
 and thirty horses ; all those around me were talking in a 
 language which I could not understand, though Mr. 
 Petroff did, who also knew a little French. The photog- 
 rapher in Yakutsk took our photograph ; but someone 
 moved before it was finished, and therefore it was a 
 failure. It might have given an idea of our costumes. 
 As to mine, it was not very elegant : a sun hat, over it 
 a network arrangement as a protection from the mosqui- 
 toes, a jacket with very long sleeves, with the badge of 
 the red cross on my left arm ; very full trousers down 
 to my knees, and high boots above my knees ; a revol- 
 ver, a whip, and a little traveling bag. I was obliged 
 to ride as a man for many reasons. First, because the 
 Yakutsk horses were so wild that it was impossible for 
 me to ride otherwise ; second, no woman could ride on 
 a lady's saddle for 3000 versts; and thirdly, as- there 
 were no roads, the horse constantly stumbles on the 
 roots that are in the forest, threatening to throw the 
 rider over its head ; then it sinks into the mud till the 
 rider's feet are on the earth ; having somehow recovered 
 its footing, it rushes along between the branches of the 
 trees and shrubs, utterly regardless of the fact that they 
 were tearing and making mincemeat of the rider's dress. 
 
230 Appendix. 
 
 The first day we did five versts (3J miles) ; the second, 
 fifteen (10) ; the third, twenty (13J) ; and after that 
 eighty versts without stopping for sleep. One's sufferings 
 were far worse than even when traveling in the taran- 
 tass, the stiffened position of my body being altogether 
 contrary to its usual free and easy habit ; and the jerky 
 movements of the untrained horse gave me dreadful 
 pain. 
 
 We were obliged to take food with us for three months ; 
 some black and white dried bread, some dried prunes, 
 some tea and sugar, and. other indispensable articles for 
 so long a journey ; for, excepting at Viluisk, you can 
 get absolutely nothing, not even bread and tea. 
 
 Before leaving Yakutsk, His Grace the Archbishop 
 asked us to go to his house, that he might give us his 
 blessing. When we went, His Grace, dressed in all his 
 most brilliant robes, blessed us, and pronounced over us 
 his benediction. All the time I was in Yakutsk he took 
 care of me like a father, tenderly and lovingly. We left 
 there very quietly, so as not to attract attention. I had 
 a very great objection to make any parade of our starting 
 to my work, for it was serious ; and it is my desire that 
 it should be finished as it was begun, with the blessing 
 of God on us at every step, whether that step be difficult 
 or easy. 
 
 When you are traveling through marshes in which 
 your horse, without a moment's warning, sinks up to his 
 stomach, you are obliged to hold on by the reins and 
 by your knees and hands and every way, as best you can. 
 The only thought in my mind at the time was to keep on 
 and not fall off, and to keep my horse on his feet, for if 
 my horse fell I must fall with it, and find myself in the 
 mud. The first ten marshes it was not so difficult ; but 
 after we had passed hundreds of them all the body ached ; 
 
Appendix. 231 
 
 I felt as though I had spent fifty years on the treadmill. 
 It was then that to keep in the saddle was a feat worthy 
 of a hero. 
 
 On the official maps there is a road traced leading from 
 Yakutsk to Viluisk, but in reality there is no such road — 
 so do not be misled by official maps if you should go there. 
 You will have to pass through unnamed marshes, and 
 never find any such road. 
 
 During the summer the mosquitoes are frightful, both 
 in the night and in the day ; and when you arrive at a 
 yourta, which serves as a post-station, the dirt and vermin 
 and smell are simply disgusting ; bugs, lice, fleas, etc., 
 cover the walls, as well as the benches on which you have 
 to sleep. Even on the ground you will find them, and 
 as soon as a stranger comes in, it seems as if the insects 
 make a combined assault on him in large battalions ; and, 
 of course, sleep is a thing never dreamed of. After a few 
 days the body swells from their bites into a form that can 
 neither be imagined nor described. They attack your 
 eyes and your face, so that you would hardly be recognized 
 by your dearest friend. Yet with all these pains and 
 penalties we had still to continue riding from forty to 
 eighty versts in one day ; we did even looversts without 
 sleep. The fatigue and the want of rest were dreadful. 
 Cows and calves were in the same yourta with us, and 
 the smell from them and from everything else was horri- 
 ble. We would, indeed, have made very funny pictures of 
 miserable travelers. As there is only one yourta at a 
 post-station, ladies and gentlemen are obliged to sleep 
 all together, and any traveler that may be present at the 
 same time ; a gentleman might put up with it, but it is 
 impossible for a lady. After riding on horseback for the 
 first time, my body was in constant pain, and complete 
 rest with the possibility of undressing was indispensable ; 
 
232 Appendix. 
 
 but as they say in French, " a la guerre commea la guerre'* 
 As undressing was not possible, I was obliged to rest the 
 best way I could. The Cossack was also ill that day, 
 and Mr. Petroff and myself had our heads bound up so 
 asjto ease the pain a little, having been badly burnt by 
 the sun. To have even five minutes' rest we were obliged 
 to have a fire made up of cow-dung in this disgusting 
 yourta, and, to prevent the smoke from escaping, as that 
 is the only way to have any rest, we were obliged to cover 
 the opening of the chimney. The mosquitoes left us 
 alone ; but as to our eyes, they were so irritated by the 
 smoke that they were bathed in tears ; and my head suf- 
 fered even worse. The other animals, however, did not 
 cease to attack us all the time. I would indeed have 
 presented an original picture. To remain five minutes 
 longer within was not possible, we could do nothing at 
 all because of the smoke ; and this continued all day. 
 
 Really, I think the sufferings of this journey have 
 added twenty years to my age. But I would willingly 
 do it ten times over to aid my poor lepers who are placed 
 in the depths of these unknown forests. 
 
 You are always running the risk of being attacked by 
 bears here, so that we always kept our revolvers ready at 
 our side or under our heads ; and two Yakuts as sentinels, 
 with large fires at each end of the little encampment. 
 
 Soon after we started on our journey we were obliged 
 to travel in the night, because our horses had no rest in 
 the day-time from the terrible horse-flies, that were quite 
 dangerous there. They instantly attacked the wretched 
 beasts, so that it was an awful sight to see our horses 
 with the blood running down their sides, many of them 
 becoming so exhausted that they were not able to carry 
 our luggage. 
 
 At one place the bears might have attacked us with 
 
Appendix. 233 
 
 impunity. It was a very dangerous spot, as we were in 
 the depths of a thick forest ; we could hardly see two 
 yards off, and the Yakuts saw eleven bears as we passed. 
 Before starting, we all grasped our revolvers and guns, 
 and we always had a large box filled with stones, which 
 made a great clatter as we traveled ; the bells also of 
 some of our horses made a considerable noise. One of 
 the Cossacks was in front of me, Mr. Petroff was on one 
 side, the other Cossack and the rest of the escort, the 
 horses and luggage, being behind. In the less dangerous 
 parts of the forest everyone used to sing, making noise 
 enough to frighten fifty bears. The horses are in such a 
 fearful dread of the bears that they smell them afar off ; 
 and, as soon as they know they are near, they become 
 almost unmanageable, dragging you through the forests, 
 between the trees, flying like the wind. One thing was 
 perfectly clear, that had the bears come near, it is quite 
 certain some of us would have been killed ; if not by "the 
 bears, then by the horses, who were almost mad. 
 
 One further danger must be related, so that readers of 
 this document may have some notion of the many trials 
 that had to be endured. After having left Viluisk one 
 night we entered an immense forest, where the horses 
 made a peculiar noise with their feet, as if they were 
 walking over hollow ground. Having asked what it 
 meant I was told that we were near a place where the 
 forest was burning. In about half an hour there was 
 seen in the distance a small body of flames ; but on getting 
 nearer it seemed almost a picture of the infernal regions, 
 so terrible was it to the sight, and yet we were obliged to 
 go right into it. Far as could be seen there were flames 
 and smoke rising from the ground, which was everywhere, 
 apparently, burning. One of the Yakuts was in front ; 
 I was next, my horse picking its way ; but sometimes 
 
? 3 4 Appendix. 
 
 it would get into a hole where there was fire, when it be- 
 came terrified, throwing itself from right to left, becoming 
 restive and wild till one became almost exhausted ; for, 
 in addition to this, there was the effort to distinguish the 
 path through the smoke with eyes smarting and almost 
 blinded with the glare of the fire. However, we traveled 
 on, but all at once we heard a dreadful noise behind us. 
 Nothing could be seen through the flames and smoke, but 
 the noise steadily kept coming nearer ; our horses began 
 to get still more restless, and before we could have any 
 idea where the sound came from, a horse with some 
 luggage on it, mad with fright at the flames and the 
 smoke, rushed into our midst. Mr. Petroff, who was be- 
 hind, had just time to give it a slash with his whip, 
 which made it turn a little to the right, otherwise it 
 would have been on me, and certainly I would have been 
 killed. It was quite mad, and dashed right into the 
 flames, as it was impossible for us to stop it, having so 
 much to do to manage our own horses. 
 
 This was the most terrible experience of the journey, 
 and it was only through God's mercy that we were kept 
 alive. 
 
 I have asked Mr. Petroff to sign this, as he was witness 
 to these dangers, having been with me all the time. 
 
 (Signed) Kate Marsden. 
 
 August 24 (September 6), 1891. 
 
 (Signed) Serge Michailovitch Petroff, 
 
 Tchinovnick for special services attached 
 to the Governor of Yakutsk. 
 
Appendix. 235 
 
 XI. 
 
 Risumd of my journey into the Viluisk Province, Siberia, 
 being the translation of a document written by myself 
 in French, and signed by the tchinovnick who acted as 
 my interpreter. 
 
 In Viluisk I consulted with several persons as to the 
 condition of the lepers in that province, and I was as- 
 sured that it was dreadful ; that they were thrust out 
 by the community into immense forests, without any- 
 thing with which to cover themselves ; and the yourtas, 
 or huts, in which they live, are so small that they were 
 packed in them more like animals than human beings. 
 We were said to have gone 2500 versts (1666 miles) on 
 horseback ; but as the Yakuts have no idea of the 
 length of a verst, I am sure we must have gone over 
 3000 ; for frequently, when we were told that there were 
 only ten versts to such and such a place, we found there 
 were twenty. 
 
 The community, having heard that I had come to help 
 them (non-officially), were so grateful and happy that 
 they cleared a road in the forest for 1500 versts, where, 
 otherwise, it would have been impossible to pass. They 
 also built small bridges over the most dangerous marshes ; 
 but to accomplish this they had to put aside all their 
 agricultural work for the summer, which was certainly a 
 loss to them. It was all the more gratifying to hear that 
 they did it of their own free will. Everywhere along the 
 road they showed me every possible kindness, begging 
 me most earnestly to help their lepers. 
 
 A great difficulty I experienced was that I did not 
 understand either the Russian or Yakutsk language, and 
 being accompanied only by about thirty men, all of whom 
 spoke in a language unknown to me. It was indeed most 
 
236 Appendix. 
 
 awkward for a lady to be alone under such circumstances 
 in a foreign country. Mr. Petroff spoke a little French, 
 so it was only through him that I could make myself 
 understood. 
 
 The 3d (15th) July, 1891, the ispravnick, the doctor 
 (feldsher), two soldiers, Mr. Petroff, and myself left 
 Viluisk for the leper dwellings in the Mastach district, 
 near the Lake Abungda, where the largest colony of them 
 is situated. 
 
 We descended the River Viluie for about twenty versts, 
 where we were met by the chief of the starostas and the 
 Yakuts, about twenty men, with thirty horses ; all were 
 waiting to conduct us to the place to which we were 
 going. 
 
 After we had some tea we entered the forests, and 
 having gone up the hill for about twenty versts we 
 stopped on seeing a fire, which is always a sign of some- 
 one being near, and inquired how far we had still to go 
 before we could find drinkable water, and grass for our 
 horses. As Mr. Petroff was talking I noticed something 
 moving between the trees of the forest. I asked what 
 it was, and was told that it was a leper child who wanted 
 to ask me to help him. I dismounted and went toward 
 him ; but the poor child, thinking that I would be 
 frightened at his disease, as the Yakuts are, kept going 
 backward, and it was difficult to make him understand 
 that I wanted to speak with him, and even touch him. I 
 then spoke to his mother and brother, who told me the 
 history of this poor child. 
 
 The community having affirmed that he was a leper 
 (and it must be understood that in this community there 
 was not a single Russian, nor any man that had any idea 
 of medicine), ordered this child to live alone in the forests 
 in a yourta that had been buil^ for him about ten versts 
 
Appefidix. 237 
 
 away from his mother, and, further, that he was to remain 
 there for the rest of his life. Thank God, his mother took 
 pity on him in his solitude, and built a tiny shed behind 
 her yourta, where the child used to come secretly, as soon 
 as it was dark, to sleep. But had the society found this 
 out the mother would have been punished by also being 
 thrust into the depths of the forest and separated from 
 the rest of the community. 
 
 This touching story proved the truth of all the cruelties 
 that I had been told were practiced on the poor lepers. 
 We gave him every possible help, and the ispravnick 
 took the child under his protection, which will prevent a 
 repetition of such cruelties. 
 
 As for the consequences of this journey for all of us, but 
 especially for me — a lady alone, who up to that time had 
 never ridden on horseback, and was now obliged to ride 
 like a man, the Yakut horse being unmanageable other- 
 wise (indeed, along this dreadful road there was no pos- 
 sibility of riding otherwise)— the many difficulties, the 
 fatigue, and want of proper and clean food, the danger from 
 the bears that abound in the Viluisk province, the dangers 
 of traveling in the night through dark forests, the roots 
 of the trees interlacing the roads so that the horse is con- 
 stantly stumbling against them, the cold at night, and the 
 heat during the day, the strain on your eyes in trying to 
 peer through the darkness, the dampness, the absence of 
 any habitation near, and often only disgusting water to 
 drink — all this will perhaps give you a little idea of some 
 of our sufferings. 
 
 But I will not speak much about them, as the object of 
 my task is not to tell what we endured, but to bear wit- 
 ness to the sufferings of the wretched lepers, and, with 
 God's blessing, to put into this work all my strength, all 
 my heart, and all my life ; and I pray in the name of the 
 
238 Appendix. 
 
 Lord that every Christian will help them by his prayers 
 and his money in their terrible condition. 
 
 About sixty versts (forty miles) from Abungda the 
 priest of the district met us. We rested at his house, and 
 then he conducted us to Abungda. As we neared the 
 dwellings of the lepers the road got more difficult and 
 impassable, for the lepers are always located in the 
 farthest and loneliest places, those least frequented, and 
 the most difficult of access, in order to prevent them 
 returning to their former homes. We traveled along the 
 lake, and as we came out of the forest we saw the yourtas 
 where the lepers live. 
 
 They were expecting us, and as soon as they saw us we 
 were saluted. After giving them every help and assist- 
 ance we could, we all prayed together ; and Her Majesty 
 the Empress was not forgotten. I know that these 
 prayers will be heard. It was terribly sad to listen to 
 the feeble voices of these weak lepers — to see them on 
 their knees making the sign of the Cross with their poor 
 maimed hands, often without fingers and without strength, 
 so that they could hardly lift up their arms, their faces 
 frightfully disfigured by this disease ; in their eyes you 
 could read that all hope was lost. Their feet were toeless, 
 so that some could not walk at all, and could only drag 
 along their bodies with the help of a low stool. This 
 picture of a dying life, without any consolation, touched 
 us so deeply that the remembrance of it will remain 
 with us all our days. In this place there were two 
 yourtas about thirty yards apart ; and between them 
 seven graves, as if to take away the possibility of these 
 poor creatures forgetting for one moment that death 
 always follows them, and is always near. 
 
 When a leper dies he remains in the same yourta, with 
 the living, for three days. Will x you just look into the 
 
Appendix. 239 
 
 interior of this yourta ? It is so small that the inmates 
 are obliged to sleep on the benches along the wall, with- 
 out any mattress, and so near to each other that the feet 
 of one leper touch the head of the next, while the others 
 have to sleep on the bare earth, these yourtas having no 
 floors. There is a frightful odor from this disease, and 
 the cold in the winter is so terrible that when the door is 
 opened for a minute one is almost frozen. The cows are 
 in the same hut, and the dead bodies have to remain there 
 on the benches, adding to the frightful stench of the 
 lepers. When the coffin is brought a leper is obliged to 
 go out in the terrible cold and drag as best he can the 
 coffin into the hut, put the corpse into it, and, after that, 
 put it on an old sledge and drag it for some yards to the 
 grave. Indeed, these people have been cruelly forsaken 
 and forgotten ; but it is hoped that a brighter time is 
 about to dawn for them, and that the greatest bitterness 
 of their sorrow will soon be of the past. 
 
 When they had the smallpox there no one visited 
 them — neither the doctors nor any of the Yakuts ; they 
 were obliged to bear the sufferings of this disease also 
 quite alone, without anyone to aid them ; no beds for 
 their suffering bodies, and almost without clothes, with 
 the exception of the disgusting shoubas (fur cloaks), which 
 only augumented the irritation so terrible in this disease. 
 What they endured no one will ever know. 
 
 There was a girl of eighteen in this yourta, who had 
 lived all her life with the lepers, though she was in 
 perfect health. Her mother had been a leper, therefore 
 the community ordered her to remain always with them. 
 After consulting with the ispravnick, the priest, the 
 doctor, and Mr. Petroff, we decided not to leave the place 
 until this girl was freed. The kind ispravnick said that 
 when she was washed and dressed in other clothes he 
 
240 Appendix. 
 
 would willingly take her into his own house ; and before 
 we left Viluisk we saw the girl settled with him. 
 
 At Abungda the lepers had cows ; and certainly this 
 was the best place we visited, although even here the 
 yourta in which they lived was only six yards long and 
 four yards broad ; and there were eleven lepers in it. 
 Such conditions are quite unsuitable for these poor 
 creatures, as they have to spend eight or nine months of 
 the year in this place, or in another just as bad. All the 
 other leper settlements we visited were worse and worse. 
 
 At one place, Djikinda, there was a man, a woman, and 
 two children almost naked. In another place, Ilgidjan, 
 there were six people almost naked. The men, women, 
 and children live all together, more like animals than 
 human beings. 
 
 In another place, Abalack Kel, I saw a woman who had 
 been condemned by the community to live all alone for 
 the rest of her life ; she had already been isolated for 
 four years. She saw no one but her husband, who brought 
 her food and firing regularly. She very rarely saw her 
 children — then only at a long distance, as they never 
 dared go near her. Thus in this perfect, endless solitude 
 she has to live always. Her work in winter was to drag 
 her body along the snow the best way she could, as she 
 was not able to walk, to fetch the food that was taken to 
 her by her husband, and left at some yards away from the 
 hovel. If she had any strength she kindled a fire ; if not, 
 she had to remain in the cold. 
 
 Again, at another place, Harialach-Kell, there were 
 three men who lived alone. They told me that the bears 
 often frightened them by coming close to the yourta ; but, 
 luckily, they had a very clever dog, who used to bark 
 incessantly at them till he chased them back into the 
 forest, often returning without any^ voice left. Had it riot 
 
Appendix. 241 
 
 been for this dog the bears would have entered the 
 yourta, as the poor lepers have neither guns nor re- 
 volvers. 
 
 At a place named Honkeil, there was a man who had 
 come a long distance to ask for my help ; he said that the 
 bears were his only companions, and that he had also a 
 dog to protect him : he was likewise condemned to live 
 alone in the forest. 
 
 Neither man, woman, nor child is exempt from this 
 cruelty. Once the community decides that anyone is a 
 leper, he is thus condemned ; even if he himself is not a 
 leper, but if his parents have been lepers, or he has lived 
 with lepers, it is the same ; for life he is condemned to 
 isolation. 
 
 In some places the yourtas are small, even for two 
 people ; but we found as many as eight and ten people 
 in them. The .dirt, the frightful odor from the lepers, 
 the absence of any sanitary place, their food, chiefly 
 consisting of fish, and often rotten fish, butter and grease 
 that they drink, and bark of trees, and their disgusting 
 clothes, will hardly give you an idea of the miserable 
 conditions under which they barely exist. It is true 
 what Father John of Viluisk says, that in all the world 
 you will not find people in a more lost condition than 
 they are. The terror the Yakuts have of this disease is 
 remarkable ; nothing in the world would make them 
 touch or go near them. Be it father, mother, or child, 
 they are torn away from their family, and condemned to 
 live alone to the end of their life. 
 
 I will give you another instance of the cruelties prac- 
 ticed in the name of disease. About twenty versts from 
 Viluisk, at the other side of the river Viluie, there was an 
 orphan child, who had an inheritance of some four cows. 
 His parents were dead, and his uncle had charge of him, 
 
242 Appendix. 
 
 who, wishing to take possession of these cows, informed 
 the community that his nephew was a leper. 
 
 They told him that he was to be isolated like the rest, 
 and they ordered the uncle to have charge of him. The 
 uncle built him a tiny shed — the doctor who saw it said 
 it was not large enough for a dog ; the uncle then took 
 the child into the forest where the shed was, and he left 
 him there without providing any food or drink. After 
 some time the child was found dead ; he had died from 
 starvation and cold. His uncle had buried him without 
 a coffin, and when the doctor opened his body, he found 
 nothing but a little clay in his stomach. What this poor 
 child must have suffered from terror, hunger, thirst, and 
 cold, no one will ever know. To prevent the possibility 
 of a repetition of a similar case I asked the advice of the 
 committee, as well as their help, and that of many others. 
 
 In another place there was a woman leper, who used 
 to go near the dwellings of the healthy Yakuts for 
 stealing purposes ; the starosta ordered that all her 
 clothes were to be taken away from her so as to prevent 
 her leaving her yourta. However, one day she ventured 
 out without clothes, and her body was found frozen and 
 dead. 
 
 We visited the lepers in thirteen different places, but 
 at last I was too ill to go any farther, and neither the 
 ispravnick, Mr. Petroff, nor the doctor would take the 
 responsibility of letting me go on ; so I was obliged to 
 remain in the tent. 
 
 At Sredni Viluisk a man was suspected of having 
 leprosy ; but as at last it was proved that he really had 
 the disease, they ordered him to be sent thirty versts 
 away, where there were other lepers belonging to the 
 same community. He had neither fingers nor toes, and 
 was so terribly disfigured that I as^ed them how he was 
 
Appendix. 243 
 
 going to be sent. I was answered, " Oh, very well, quite 
 easily." But knowing full well that they consider that 
 the worst things are quite good enough for the lepers, I 
 wanted to be certain as to the manner in which he would 
 be conveyed there. It was only after a great deal of 
 trouble that I could get to the truth ; first I was told 
 that he could walk ; but I said, " No, that is impossible ; " 
 then they said, "We will put him on a bull." I again 
 said, " No, that is also impossible." Then they said, " On 
 a horse ; " but to this I objected ; and, at last, after a 
 great deal of discussion, they consented to put him on a 
 sledge, with some hay to lie upon. 
 
 Now, I do not think that they even thought that their 
 first propositions were cruel, the Yakuts being so accus- 
 tomed to walk and ride themselves ; but we can well 
 understand that the sufferings of this leper were indeed 
 terrible — the poor man being so ill and so disfigured, 
 needing the best care possible — and the Yakuts wanted 
 to add to his sufferings, as he could not have held 
 himself on a horse. And now, having seen all these 
 things on the spot, I want everyone to consider in what 
 way we can ameliorate their condition. 
 
 Having witnessed all these horrors, I am going straight 
 to Irkutsk to collect money, with the help of the com- 
 mittee and others, for a hospital. After that I hope to 
 have the honor of presenting myself to Her Majesty 
 the Empress at Gatchina, and to lay at her feet all these 
 details, with the list of names of those persons who have 
 given money for the hospitals ; and I am more than sure 
 that Her Majesty, who is so gracious and tender-hearted, 
 will take all the sufferings of the sick and of the poor to 
 heart, and sustain me in this work. As for myself, I will 
 put all my strength, my health, my life into it, so that 
 the existence of these wretched lepers may be bettered, 
 
244 Appendix. 
 
 and that they may have a hospital. But the result of 
 this rests absolutely with the Lord ; and it is in his 
 name that I beg Christians everywhere to help them. 
 
 This resume of my journey among the lepers I have 
 asked Mr. Petroff to read, and afterward to sign, as 
 witness and translator, having accompanied me all 
 through this part of the journey. 
 
 Kate Marsden. 
 
 August 19 (August 31), 1891. 
 
 (Signed) Serge Michailovitch Petroff, 
 
 Tchinovnick for special service to the 
 Yakutsk Governor. 
 
ON SLEDGE 
 
 AND 
 
 HORSEBACK 
 
 TO THE OUTCAST SIBERIAN LEPERS 
 
 Illustrated from Photographs and Drawings 
 
 DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION 
 TO 
 
 Her Most Gracious and Imperial Majesty the Queen 
 
 by 
 
 KATE MARSDEN 
 
 MEMBER (SPECIAL BADGE) OF THE ROYAL BRITISH NURSES' 
 ASSOCIATION, MEMBER AND MEDALIST OF THE RUSSIAN 
 IMPERIAL RED CROSS SOCIETY, ETC.. ETC., FEL- 
 LOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY 
 
 104 & 106 Fourth Avenue 
 
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