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Lord Russell ofKillowen 
 From the bust presented to the Association of the Bar ofN ew York City 
 BY the Inns of Court. London 
 
Tanttcd States CatboUc Iblstorfcal Society 
 
 Diary of a Visit 
 
 TO THE 
 
 United States of America 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1883 
 
 BY 
 
 CHARLES LORD RUSSELL of Killowen 
 
 Late Lord Chief Justice of Eng/and 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE 
 
 Rev. MATTHEW RUSSELL, S.J. 
 
 AN APPENDIX BY 
 
 THOMAS FRANCIS MEEHAN, A.M. 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 CHARLES GEORGE HERBERMANN, Ph.D. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THE UNITED STATES CATHOLIC 
 
 HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 1910 
 

 Copyright, 1 910 
 
 By THE UNITED STATES CATHOLIC 
 
 HISTORICAL SOCIETY 
 
 CCiA365351 
 
PREFACE 
 
 To Rev. Matthew Russell, S.J., and Rev. John J. 
 Wynne, S.J., the Editor wishes in the first place to 
 express his gratitude for placing at the disposal of 
 the United States Catholic Historical Society the 
 interesting diary of Lord Russell of Killowen, writ- 
 ten during his visit to our country in 1883. It is 
 always interesting and instructive "to see ourselves 
 as others see us," and Lord Russell was a man of 
 such sound judgment, good taste, keen observation, 
 and catholic sympathies that his views on what he saw 
 in the United States cannot fail to be instructive. 
 Withal, the diary affords to the reader a vivid picture 
 of family life and affection which cannot fail to 
 charm every sympathetic heart. 
 
 The thanks of the Society are also due to the New 
 York Bar Association for the photograph of Lord 
 Russell's bust which graces its library, as well as to 
 the management of the Northern Pacific Railroad 
 for our illustrations of some of the leading incidents 
 connected with Lord Russell's journey across our con- 
 tinent. Lastly, we express our thanks to the Hon. 
 John P. Mitchel for his kindness in permitting us to 
 reproduce the portrait of his distinguished grand- 
 father. 
 
Introduction 
 
 LORD Russell of Killowen, Chief Justice of Eng- 
 land, had always warm American sympathies. 
 Far on in his career, when he was anything but a dis- 
 appointed man, he told me that, if he had to start life 
 again, he would be inclined to cast his lot under the 
 Stars and Stripes. 
 
 He paid two visits to the United States. The first 
 was during the Long Vacation of 1883; and it is of 
 this visit that some account is given in the following 
 pages. The second visit was in the autumn of 1896, 
 when he was invited to deliver the annual address be- 
 fore the American Bar Association at Saratoga 
 Springs. On this latter occasion he kept no diary, for 
 he was accompanied by his wife, his daughter Lilian 
 (now Mrs. Henry Drummond), and his son, the 
 Hon. Charles Russell. He was also accompanied by 
 his genial and gifted friend, Sir Frank Lockwood. 
 
 The first time he crossed the Atlantic, he was not 
 Lord Russell nor even Sir Charles Russell, nor was he 
 the principal figure of the party. He accompanied 
 Lord Coleridge, whom he was to succeed as Chief 
 Justice of England, and Sir James Hannen, whom, 
 three years later, he was to address as Head of the 
 Parnell Commission in a speech eight days long. 
 Those things, and other things that happened after- 
 
 3 
 
4 Introduction 
 
 wards, would have seemed improbable enough when 
 Charles Stewart Parnell gave Charles Russell, Q. C, 
 the day before he sailed from Liverpool, this letter of 
 introduction to Justice Shea, New York : 
 
 House of Commons, Aug. 13, 1883. 
 My dear Sir : 
 
 Permit me to introduce to you Mr. Russell, who is 
 visitmg America. He is anxious to learn the status, 
 political and social, and the views of our leading and 
 representative countrymen in the States; and, al- 
 though not a member of our party, he has always 
 done what he could, both in and out of Parliament, 
 from his own point of view, to serve the interests of 
 Ireland. Need I say how much pleased I shall be if 
 you can do anything to further the objects of his visit? 
 I am, my dear Sir, 
 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 Chas. S. Parnell. 
 
 The President of the Society which is publishing 
 this diary will perhaps allow me to give this extract 
 from his letter to Father John J. Wynne, S.J., who 
 had placed it in his hands: 
 
 "I have read through Lord Russell's diary with 
 considerable interest. It impresses me greatly as a 
 portrait of a good affectionate father of a family in- 
 terested in the education of his children. It reminded 
 me of the great Villard glorification, in which Gen- 
 eral W. also took part. The diary is also a sad, 
 
Introduction 5 
 
 sympathetic memorial to the Indians and affords a 
 glimpse of the rising Pacific States in their infancy. 
 These features, together with Lord Russell's estimate 
 of the oratorical powers of Evarts and other Ameri- 
 cans, some of which are quite instructive, I think, 
 make the diary well worth publishing." 
 
 I will only add that it seems to me highly charac- 
 teristic of my brother that amidst all the fatigue and 
 worries of such a journey he should have persevered 
 in jotting down his impressions in pencil, copy-book 
 after copy-book, and sending them week by week to 
 the dear ones at home, without the faintest notion of 
 such a fate as has now after a quarter of a century 
 befallen these hurried notes of travel. 
 
 The "Martin" referred to, especially in the ac- 
 count of the visit to California, was Mr. Patrick Mar- 
 tin, an Irish barrister, Q.C., and at one time M. P. for 
 Kilkenny. That visit to California was undertaken 
 for the purpose of seeing the "Kate" of the diary, 
 namely. Mother Baptist Russell of St. Mary's Hospi- 
 tal, San Francisco. She was the second of three sis- 
 ters who all became Sisters of Mercy. In her 
 twenty-fifth year she led out a band of nuns from 
 Kinsale in the south of Ireland to the Golden Gate, 
 which they entered on the very day that the dogma 
 of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin 
 Mary was solemnly proclaimed as an article of Cath- 
 olic faith. After a very full life of great utility, she 
 died In the hospital which she had founded and had 
 
6 Introduction 
 
 maintained some forty years, St. Mary's, San Fran- 
 cisco, in August, 1898, exactly two years before her 
 brother. May they rest in peace. 
 
 As we have said. Lord Russell always felt a warm 
 admiration for the United States of America. The 
 feelings entertained towards him, especially by the 
 American Bar, were expressed by the Ambassador 
 to England, Mr. Joseph Choate, on the occasion 
 of the unveiling of Lord Russell's statue in the 
 central hall of the Royal Courts of Justice, Jan- 
 uary II, 1905. Of the £3,200 subscribed for the 
 memorial £900 came from the United States. As 
 the representative of that great country, Mr. Choate 
 said that "he would never have, and never had 
 had, a more grateful and agreeable duty than to 
 declare his affection, esteem, and admiration for the 
 great jurist and noble gentleman whose statue had 
 just been unveiled. The name and personality 
 of Sir Charles Russell had long been familiar to 
 the profession and to all the people of the United 
 States. At the time of his untimely death he was a 
 universal favourite amongst all parties, creeds, and 
 sections in that country. The career of every great 
 English lawyer was watched with the keenest interest 
 by every disciple of Blackstone and Storey wherever 
 our common language was spoken, and when a man 
 rose step by step by sheer force of character, talents, 
 and ambition, without the aid of patronage or influ- 
 ence, from the lowest rung of the ladder to the ex- 
 
Introduction 7 
 
 alted position of Lord Chief Justice of England, he 
 necessarily commanded their universal applause and 
 admiration. There was no royal road to eminence 
 at the Bar. It came by merit or it did not come at 
 all; hence merit was sure to be widely appreciated 
 wherever it was manifested. To the casual observer 
 it was marvellous how from the moment he attained 
 the ermine Lord Russell laid down all the contentions' 
 of advocacy and assumed the cold neutrality of an 
 impartial judge. With whole-souled devotion he 
 gave himself to the duties of his great office. To do 
 justice was his only object; to ascertain the truth his 
 only ambition. In his death the cause of truth, jus- 
 tice, and honour lost one of its noblest champions. In 
 the proud position that he occupied so long as the 
 greatest advocate of his time the world over. Sir 
 Charles was an inspiring influence to his brethren 
 everywhere, and as a supreme master of the danger- 
 ous art of cross-examination, so fatal when in feeble 
 hands, so triumphant for truth when happily con- 
 ducted, he was not only a peer in his own time, but 
 his superior could not be found In all the annals of 
 forensic history. He could elicit the truth from the 
 most hopeless material, and could utterly destroy a 
 false witness, for whom there was no escape from his 
 searching and relentless pursuit. But he was much 
 more and much nearer to them than the Inspiring 
 professional teacher and example. He made two 
 prolonged visits to America, one in 1883 and the 
 
8 hitroduction 
 
 other in 1896, both of which were ever-memorable, 
 for they brought him into close contact with the lead- 
 ing professional men, and his personal charm and 
 magnetism had full play. Sir Charles was a strong 
 believer in personal intercourse between the responsi- 
 ble men of both countries as the best means of pro- 
 moting international harmony. In every city that he 
 visited, in public and in private, he preached the gos- 
 pel of peace and goodwill between England and 
 America, and his constant efforts in that direction had 
 a pov/erful and enduring effect. Just before his last 
 visit to America he had been leading counsel for 
 Great Britain before the Court of Arbitration which 
 disposed of the long vexed Behring Sea question, 
 and he conducted his case with such perfect fairness 
 and consummate ability that the triumph he won for 
 his country left no sting behind, but his opponents 
 from that day were counted amongst his life-long 
 friends and devoted admirers. His last words to 
 them were still freshly remembered, and had had an 
 enduring influence for good : 'Who can doubt the in- 
 fluence that Great Britain and America possess for 
 ensuring the healthy progress and the peace of man- 
 kind? But if this influence is to be fully felt they 
 must work together in cordial friendship, each peo- 
 ple in its own sphere of action. If they have great 
 power, they have also great responsibility. No cause 
 they espouse can fail, no cause they oppose can tri- 
 umph. The future is in large part theirs. They 
 
Introduction 9 
 
 have the making of history in the times that are to 
 come. The greatest calamity that could befall would 
 be strife that should divide them.' In season and out 
 of season, at home and abroad, he preached the same 
 doctrine, and it was not too much to say that no man 
 had done more by wise counsel and earnest pleading 
 to bring about the present happy relations between 
 our two great countries than Lord Russell of Killo- 
 wen. Who would wonder, then, that this memorial 
 had been established to testify to future generations 
 all his merits and virtues? On behalf of the judges 
 and lawyers of America, and of all his countrymen, 
 he blessed the name and memory of Lord Russell to- 
 day. Might this statue, standing in the Temple of 
 Justice which he so nobly adorned, show the lawyers 
 of all time and of all nations what manner of man he 
 was." 
 
 During the first of the two visits to the United 
 States referred to above, Charles Russell sent home 
 each week an account of his travels and experiences. 
 It was characteristic of him to find time and energy 
 to carry this out through his whole trip, though it 
 must often have been exceedingly difliicult. He jotted 
 down in pencil notes of each day's doings and sent 
 them home in batches according as opportunities oc- 
 curred. These were transcribed very legibly into 
 cahicrs by no mercenary hand, but by his wife, who 
 was able to decipher characters scrawled in the most 
 untoward circumstances. And then, while the pre- 
 
lo Introduction 
 
 clous original was kept safe at home, the copy cir- 
 culated among the scattered members of the family, 
 one of whom did employ a mercenary hand to make 
 a transcript which he now proposes to put partly into 
 print. 
 
 Matthew Russell, S J. 
 
T ORD Russell of Killowen died on August 6, 
 -^-^ 1900. On the last day of that month, at the 
 annual meeting of the American Bar Association held 
 at Saratoga Springs, New York, Professor Bradley 
 Thayer of Massachusetts moved the adoption of the 
 following minutes: 
 
 "The American Bar Association has heard with 
 peculiar sorrow of the death of Lord Russell of 
 Killowen, Lord Chief Justice of England, and de- 
 sires to enter upon its records some permanent expres- 
 sion of honour and esteem for his memory. The 
 members of this Association had followed and known 
 well that brilliant career which made Sir Charles Rus- 
 sell the conspicuous and admired leader of the Eng- 
 Hsh Bar, and they had rejoiced at the elevation of 
 one so competent to the great office which he held 
 with such distinction at the time of his death. Four 
 years ago we welcomed him here as our chief guest. 
 Recalling now the noble address which he delivered to 
 us on the 30th of August, 1896, and the deep-felt en- 
 thusiasm inspired in the hearts of all who listened to 
 him, the members of this Association desire to express 
 their admiration for the manner in which he filled his 
 high office, their grateful recollection of his visit here, 
 their affectionate regard for his memory, and their 
 respectful sympathy with the Bench and Bar of Eng- 
 land in so great a loss to our common profession." 
 
NOTES OF A TRIP TO THE UNITED 
 
 STATES 
 
 In the Summer of 1883 
 BY CHARLES RUSSELL, Q,C. 
 
 Tuesday, August 14, 1883. 
 I ^" MBARKED by special tender at 1.30 with Arthur, 
 ^ — ' Mr. Clark, and Darling and my good old 
 friend John Yates who came to see me off, Arthur 
 and Mr. Clark had got free passes to Queenstown. 
 Sailed about 5.30. 
 
 Weather tolerable. Some wind and rain, and at 
 times a roughish sea. 
 
 Lord Chief Justice Coleridge and his son Herbert, 
 Sir James Hannen and his son (at the Bar) and P. 
 Martin, Q.C., M.P. for Kilkenny, formed what I 
 call my party, all very cheery and jolly; the Lord 
 Chief Justice apparently inexhaustible in story. 
 
 Reached Queenstown at 11.30 a.m. Wednesday, 
 August 15, 1883. Our party went ashore in a tender, 
 where Arthur and Mr. Clark left us. 
 
 We went in a body to the Cathedral and heard 
 High Mass. A large congregation in a noble build- 
 ing. The music (Mozart No. 3, I think) very poorly 
 rendered, the celebrant's singing awful. No ear and 
 less voice. Architect of church, Pugin. The Lord 
 
 13 
 
14 A MontJi in the United States 
 
 Chief Justice told me Hannen was greatly impressed, 
 and that the latter told him that, if he could believe, 
 he would be a Catholic. By the way, Hannen told 
 me his grandfather was a Catholic and a Cork man. 
 He said his father was" "caught" (whatever that 
 means) early and brought up a Protestant. He 
 added he would like to explore Cork and find out, if 
 he could, the hovel in which his forefathers lived. 
 All the same I think he would be better pleased not 
 to find out "the hovel." 
 
 The harbour of Queenstown and the town looked 
 remarkably well. The weather was good; it was a 
 holiday (the Assumption) and there was a regatta 
 on. 
 
 At five o'clock we got back to our ship and were 
 underway at about 5.20 p.m., and by 10 o'clock we 
 had well cleared the Fastnetts (Lighthouse) and had 
 lost sight of Ireland. 
 
 The weather was roughish, and when we got clear 
 of the shelter of the Irish Coast (the wind was blow- 
 ing from the northwest) it was very ugly. At 2 A.M. 
 on Thursday I was "overcome," but since then have 
 been pretty well, though feeling still shaky. I hated, 
 cordially hated up to yesterday evening, several un- 
 feeling brutes, who go stamping about in the rudest 
 health, laughing and smoking and suffering nothing 
 apparently ! However, since I have begun to feel 
 better myself, I look with less ferocity on their un- 
 feeling behaviour. 
 
A Month in the United States 15 
 
 Thursday, August 16, 1883. 
 T FIND I've run into this day in my previous note. 
 It (this day) was almost uneventful. 
 The weather was not the worst and was far from 
 the best. We've had since we left Queenstown a con- 
 tinuous head-wind, i.e., from the west, and the sea con- 
 siderably "tumbly." The Captain (Gleadell) objects 
 much more to the latter than the former. A head- 
 wind gives "go" to the furnaces by improving the 
 draught in the engine-room and so enables them to 
 get more out of the engines; but the tumble of the 
 sea takes the propeller out of the water while the 
 vessel pitches and so much power goes to waste. The 
 great excitement of the day is an "Auction Pool" as 
 to the ship's run for twenty-four hours, i.e., from 12 
 o'clock noon of to-day (Thursday) till 12 o'clock to- 
 morrow (Friday). It is computed as likely that the 
 run will not be much less than 235 miles nor more 
 than 255 or thereabouts. The highest number in- 
 cludes all above it and the lowest all below it. These 
 and the intermediate numbers are put up to auction, 
 each bidder to start with paying a dollar for the right 
 to bid. The numbers vary in price, No. 235 having 
 brought nearly £5. I am writing this on Friday, 
 before the actual run is ascertained, but it is thought 
 the run will be about 237. The run itself is calculated 
 by reference to the ship's latitude and longitude, 
 which are in turn calculated by the aid of the sextant 
 
1 6 A Month in the United States 
 
 when the sun is plainly visible. Without the sun 
 clearly visible they can do nothing. 
 
 Friday, August 17, 1883. 
 
 "\"JI Je've about 190 saloon passengers and alto- 
 gether on board, including crew and steer- 
 age, a little under a thousand souls. The arrange- 
 ments are wonderfully good, both in steerage and 
 saloon parts. In the former the people supply their 
 own bedding, and many have hardly any; but as 
 to food they are very well off apparently and often 
 get their table supplemented by very substantial 
 crumbs from their richer neighbours. I've got a 
 stateroom all to myself and am very comfortable. I 
 am not as steady as I should be on terra firtna, but I 
 feel that the worst is over and that even if the 
 weather became fierce I should not wholly succumb. 
 The run since 12 o'clock yesterday just announced as 
 319, which is considerably below popular expecta- 
 tion. In good weather and under highly favourable 
 conditions the Celtic will do over 350 miles. 
 The order of events for the day is as follows : 
 
 Breakfast, from 9 to 10.30. 
 
 Porridge (which I've stuck to principally), 
 tea, etc., and a great number of dishes of the ordin- 
 ary English kind. The distinct and only American 
 things which we so far noticed are fried oysters, corn 
 
A Month in the United States 17 
 
 cakes (made of Indian corn), green corn cooked and 
 tomatoes. 
 
 Luncheon, from i p.m. to 2 o'clock. 
 
 Cold (but you can have hot) soups. 
 Dinner, 6 o'clock. 
 
 Very great variety of ordinary English dishes 
 and I've not come across any distinctively American 
 dishes. Ocasionally sauces which do not sound Eng- 
 lish, as huckleberry sauce, cranberry sauce served 
 with goose and joints occasionally. There is a very 
 good biscuit, too, called Boston crackers, which are 
 excellent when rebaked in the oven and put upon the 
 table piping hot. 
 
 As to the people, there seem very few at all inter- 
 esting so far as I've yet seen. 
 
 There is a Mrs. Kidd and family by whom I've 
 been rather taken. She is a kindly little body bent 
 on looking after everybody who needs looking after. 
 She has a charming little daughter, with whom I've 
 nearly fallen in love. Arthur saw her, and I think 
 admires her. There is a lot of doctors; one, a Dr. 
 
 T , told me his income was some $85,000, which, 
 
 I should say, is a great deal more than any English 
 doctor or surgeon makes. He seemed to be rather 
 a "bounder," and he didn't speak over-generously of 
 another M.D. in New York, Dr. Marion Simms, 
 who (I afterwards learned) is a surgeon of very 
 great repute. 
 
1 8 A Month in the United States 
 
 Saturday, August i8, 1883. 
 '' I ^HE great event to-day (for me) Is the fact that I 
 -*- won the Pool on the ship's run. The lowest No. 
 was 315, which carried with it all Nos. lower down. 
 At auction I bid three guineas for it and was declared 
 buyer. There were in the Pool some £18, so that I 
 won about £14. 
 
 The actual run was 304 miles, or 15 miles less 
 than in the prior 24 hours. 
 
 We are still meeting a stiffish head-wind, i.e., from 
 the west (called — I mention this for Charlie's in- 
 formation — "fresh breeze" in the log). The sea, 
 too, is lumpy, and altogether, if the weather does 
 not change, it is not improbable that we shall not see 
 the end of our voyage before this day-week. I.e., Sat- 
 urday the 25th instant. 
 
 It Is a very striking fact, as Illustrated by the im- 
 mensity of the track we are travelling along, that we 
 have only seen altogether three sails since we lost 
 sight of Ireland. Also a curious fact, that we find 
 ourselves attended by solitary seagulls who have to 
 go over 1,000 miles before they can get a resting- 
 place for their feet, and although we are travelling at 
 the rate of from twelve to thirteen knots an hour 
 these birds are able, apparently without an effort and 
 against a head-wind, to keep pace with us. 
 
 So far I rather share Oscar Wilde's Ideas on the 
 subject of the Atlantic. I am disappointed, but I 
 
A Month in the United States 19 
 
 must add agreeably disappointed in one sense. Thus : 
 The waves are certainly not at all as grand or strik- 
 ing as I thought they would be; but on the other 
 hand the absence of this grandeur makes the actual 
 voyage comfortable. I do not mean to say that I 
 feel as comfortable as on land, but I am no longer 
 squeamish and I move about in at least comparative 
 comfort. If on the other hand the Atlantic were to 
 assert its grandeur to the extent of washing our hur- 
 ricane or promenade deck and so to require the se- 
 curing of all the passengers below, I need hardly say 
 that matters would be altered very much for the 
 worse. 
 
 Sunday, August 19, 1883. 
 A /T OST strange ! I left off writing yesterday's Note 
 ■^^ -^ about 5 o'clock, and a little before six the wind 
 went to the south, increased in force and before 
 7 o'clock we had a fearful sea on, accompanied by a 
 wind which came in great gusts. At first the seamen 
 made light of the weather; but it is duly logged to- 
 day as "strong gales with violent squalls" which 
 Charlie will tell you is strong nautical language. The 
 Atlantic certainly did look very imposing. As far 
 as the horizon all round, the "white horses" running 
 wild and now and then the wind getting hold of the 
 tip of a wave scattered it in a shower over the length 
 of the ship. At times, too, the ship, which had just 
 mounted a small wave, met a big one before it had 
 
20 A Month in the United States 
 
 time to gather itself together again and in it went — 
 bows well down, deluging the decks to quite amid- 
 ships. All the time, however, 1 failed to see any of 
 the mast-head-high waves which one has heard 
 about. The Celtic behaved well — with all the buoy- 
 ancy of her race — and although the rolling was trying 
 it was, on the whole, so regular and free from jerki- 
 ness that I for one managed to preserve my dignity. 
 
 The real unpleasantness was at night. All the or- 
 dinary ventilators, which in fine weather are open, 
 were closed (all through which water as well as air 
 might get) : the portlight's covers screwed down and 
 all the passenger-approaches to the decks closed and 
 secured. The noise was a fearful compound of 
 sounds — the fall of water, the clanging of chains, the 
 banging of doors, the creaking of the ship, the start- 
 ling rumble of the steering-gear, and now and again 
 the frightened cry of passengers. Notwithstanding 
 all this I managed to sleep a little — very little — and 
 I was heartily glad when morning came. 
 
 To-day is a dull day, for poker and other like 
 games are forbidden. There was a kind of religious 
 service this morning, at which, however, I did not as- 
 sist. 
 
 The run to-day up to 12 noon from previous noon 
 was only 286 as against 304 for the previous day. 
 
 It is curious to note the allowance made for differ- 
 ence of time. As we get west, an addition is made 
 of about half an hour per day. Thus the last twenty- 
 
A Month in the United States 21 
 
 four hours were computed at twenty-four and a half 
 hours. I've not altered my watch since we left Eng- 
 land, and I am now about three hours or so in ad- 
 vance of the true time. 
 
 I had a long talk yesterday and to-day with an Al- 
 bany man about American Government, local and 
 general, and his view of it is far from flattering. He 
 says corruption is everywhere, from the highest 
 stratum to the lowest, and he vigorously denounces 
 the caucus system, by which, as he says, the mass of 
 uninstructed voters is made to vote almost mechani- 
 cally in obedience to the will of the wire-pullers. 
 This is very much what Conservatives in England 
 say in denouncing Chamberlain and the Birmingham 
 caucus. I shall no doubt hear the other side of the 
 question before long. The same gentleman was elo- 
 quent about the lowering influence of the Irish vote 
 In the cities. Ele says they are a great power, if not 
 the great power in all the great cities — where for the 
 purposes of local or general politics the franchise is 
 possessed by all men of a certain length of residence 
 — in other words, universal manhood suffrage. He 
 says, with some justice apparently, that the vast ma- 
 jority of this class have no stake in the country and 
 little knowledge of what is best for the country, and 
 they are thus left a prey to the corrupt or expert wire- 
 pullers who get hold of and use them for their own 
 purposes. He points out that the Irish emigrants, 
 who for the most part are recruited from the farming 
 
22 A Month in the United States 
 
 class in Ireland, generally congregate in the towns 
 and do not take as kindly as German and other Con- 
 tinental emigrants to farming. He says there is prac- 
 tically no such thing as failure known amongst the 
 classes who have taken to farms. No doubt the vast 
 majority of the Irish stick to the towns because no ar- 
 rangements have been made for taking them out 
 West and placing them on farms there, and they are 
 generally too poor and too ignorant to make the ef- 
 fort westward for themselves. 
 
 It is, I fear, too true that in the big towns our peo- 
 ple are still the hewers of wood and drawers of water. 
 I wish they vv^ere no worse than this — but they also fill 
 the jails and are the heaviest drain on the poor-rate 
 funds ! Of course all this is explicable without in- 
 volving any general or grave reflection upon our peo- 
 ple. Will the day ever come when these explanations 
 shall be no longer needed? 
 
 Run yesterday 304 miles: to-day 286. 
 
 Monday, August 20, 1883. 
 A MOST agreeable change ! Since about 1 1 o'clock 
 '^ ■*- yesterday the weather has taken up wonderfully. 
 The sea is as smooth as Carlingford Bay in ordinary 
 weather, and barring a Scotch mist now and then a 
 seat on the hurricane deck is everything desirable. 
 
 The ship's company is just now engaged in getting 
 up a concert — amateur — for the benefit of the Sea- 
 
A Month in the United States 23 
 
 men's Hospital, Liverpool. The Lord Chief Justice 
 is to preside. It is funny to note the difference in the 
 attendance at meals which a change to kindly weather 
 makes. In the bad weather few ladies and compara- 
 tively few gentlemen appear, but to-day all hands 
 turn up and the ladies seem to be beginning to take a 
 recovered pride in their dress and general personal 
 appearance. There are several young ladies who are 
 certainly entitled to rank as good looking, but there 
 are no beauties ! 
 
 There is, as I write (11.55) great excitement 
 about the run. This is the first fair day's weather for 
 steaming. The betting is for between 330 miles and 
 340 miles in the twenty-four hours or rather in the 
 twenty-four and a half hours. 
 
 P. S. Run 337 miles. 
 
 Tuesday, August 21, 1883. 
 'THhis day-week we sailed from the Mersey! This 
 *- day-week, do you say? Why, it seems a month 
 since, at the least. It is a matter for scientific ob- 
 servation that, when the events happening around you 
 or in which you are taking part are novel, you fail to 
 take correct note of time ; and while in fact it passes 
 quickly and unobserved from hour to hour, you exag- 
 gerate it as you look back upon what has happened. 
 Certainly ^t seems very long since Arthur left in the 
 tender. To-day the beautiful weather continues, but 
 
24 A Moftth in the United States 
 
 it is warmer, balmier than heretofore, which tells 
 the instructed amongst us that we are under the 
 softening, not to say, melting influence of the Gulf 
 Stream. 
 
 [Explain what the Gulf Stream is, Eily, to your 
 younger brother and sisters!] 
 
 The salt-water bath this morning was perfectly de- 
 licious. You open a plug and in comes rolling the 
 pure blue Atlantic water ! I revelled in it. 
 
 Everything went well to-day. Our run the best so 
 far, i.e., 348 miles as against 337 yesterday. 
 
 We are all looking forward in expectancy to the 
 concert this evening; but this will come into to-mor- 
 row's (Wednesday's) Note. It is rumoured there is 
 a brilliant public singer amongst us, but apparently 
 no one is certain about it. The Lord Chief Justice is 
 to preside, and, as announced in the Bills, carriages 
 are ordered for 10.30. 
 
 Not the least pleasurable part of the fine-weather- 
 results is its effect on the steerage passengers. Bad 
 weather for them means unmitigated discomfort, but 
 when, as for the past two days, the sea is calm and 
 the weather genial, they crowd the 'tween decks, 
 babies and all, and seem thoroughly to enjoy their 
 surroundings. 
 
 There are few Irish amongst them, and none of 
 them present the appearance of abject poverty. They 
 are fairly well clad and have not that emaciated look 
 which one has too often seen in Ireland and In the 
 
JOHN DUKE LORD COLERIDGE, 
 LORD CHIEF JUSTICE OF ENGLAND 
 
A Month in the United States 25 
 
 big towns in England sometimes — and which is com- 
 monly caused by stint of good food. 
 
 Wednesday, August 22, 1883. 
 " I ^HE concert went off remarkably well. The music 
 ^ selected was all very good, and a considerable 
 part of it was very well rendered. I was amongst 
 the performers, if you please ! They insisted on my 
 giving my name as a decoy for others, but with the 
 solemn assurance that I was not to be called into ac- 
 tive service. They broke faith with me, however, 
 and I gave them (to vary the musical monotony) a 
 short recitation, which was received with great ap- 
 plause. I will let you all guess what it was : it was 
 short, it was blank verse, and it was not serious. 
 
 An old New York doctor (Marion Simms) read 
 an account of some incidents of the War of Inde- 
 pendence — more or less interesting — and lugged in a 
 kind of congratulatory address to the Lord Chief Jus- 
 tice, who responded in his siiaiiter-in-modo best style. 
 (Bertie, translate this for your sisters.) On the 
 whole, the evening was very enjoyable, and we got 
 up a collection of £25 for the Seamen's Orphans' 
 Home, Liverpool. I should before have said that 
 one of the most effective features of the musical part 
 of the entertainment was a "Smoke Room" chorus 
 in which the only distinguishable sentiment was that 
 it was "easy to roll a man down" ; but as the air was 
 
26 A Month in the United States 
 
 "Coming thro' the Rye" it atforded a good oppor- 
 tunity to all so minded to join in the general clamour. 
 This morning (Wednesday) I got up at 4.30 to 
 see the sun rise from the bosom of the Atlantic; and 
 certainly the view from the "Whale's back" (a cov- 
 ered part forward) all round was very striking. All 
 round, the horizon sharply definable and free from 
 fog — nothing to be seen but water — water every- 
 where! No sail, no birds, no porpoises, nothing. 
 The sunrise itself could not compare in beauty and 
 richness of colour with some I've seen from the Con- 
 nemara coast. Oddly enough I've not seen any sun- 
 set. The weather has at sunset been invariably so 
 foggy that nothing could be made of it. 
 
 Thursday, August 23, 1883. 
 /^~\ UR run yesterday as recorded was only 246 
 ^-^ miles, although the conditions generally seemed 
 uncommonly favourable. I say as recorded, because 
 there is an acknowledged source of error in the mode 
 of reckoning. Thus : The reckoning is accurately to 
 be made at noon each day, but then only when there 
 is no fog to prevent the line of the horizon being 
 clearly seen. Then what is called an "observation" 
 is taken, by which the position of the ship is definitely 
 fixed; but if no such observation can be taken be- 
 cause of fog or of the sun being obscured by clouds, 
 then the ship's position is got at by "dead reckoning," 
 
A Month in the United States 27 
 
 which, as I understand It, means starting from the 
 last ascertained position, computing approximately 
 the distance traversed, taking Into account speed of 
 engines, forces of wind, tide, etc., whether for or 
 against. 
 
 An observation can also be made from the stars, 
 but the operation Is a more delicate one and not so 
 reliable; therefore In all cases it follows that, if for 
 (say) two days no observation has been obtained, 
 the "dead reckoning" computation may be out con- 
 siderably; and when on the third day accurate ob- 
 servation Is made, which shows the distance traversed 
 In the interval from the previous observation, the 
 balance only of that distance, after deducting the re- 
 corded distances to the two preceding days, Is given 
 as the run of the third day. It is clear, therefore, 
 that the third day's record may be much less than or 
 greater than the actual distance traversed on that day. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the charm of the past three 
 days. The weather has been everything that could 
 be desired: the sun shining brilliantly; the seas al- 
 most smooth, and a pleasant light wind tempering 
 what would otherwise have been oppressive heat. 
 
 Even now within 300 miles of Sandy Hook (look 
 at your map, Eily) we see but few sailing vessels or 
 steamships, but the porpoises and flying-fish are play- 
 ing about us, and men, women, and children are all 
 on deck, and full of fun and frolic — every one In 
 good spirits. 
 
2 8 A Month in the United States 
 
 Last night's was the last Pool on the run, for we 
 hope to be in New York for breakfast to-morrow 
 (Friday morning) ; and now the Pool is the Pilot 
 Pool. This means that there being (say) twenty-six 
 Pilot-boats, all numbered from i upwards, the win- 
 ner of the Pool is he who will draw the No. of the 
 boat which contains our pilot. My boats are num- 
 bered 1 6 and 22, and I am not gratified to learn that 
 one of them is supposed to be at the bottom of the 
 sea at this moment. 
 
 Last night we had a grand sunset. The horizon 
 was hazy, and as usual exaggerated the size of the 
 sun, which, sinking in great splendour and dignity, 
 recalled vividly 
 
 "The Monarch Day has flung his crown of gold 
 And fiery mantle down into the River."^ 
 
 This morning I was called at 5 o'clock, and for 
 the first time saw the sun rising from the bosom of 
 this great ocean. It was truly a grand sight! The 
 Captain allowed me to go up to the "crow's nest" (a 
 high lookout point forward) . It is impossible to con- 
 vey the striking beauty of the scene. The sea smooth 
 literally as a mirror. The sky was a cold greyish- 
 blue save where in the east the glow of the coming 
 sun crimsoned or began to crimson the horizon — 
 "The ]\Iorn in rosy mantle clad." 
 
 All round the horizon, which in unbroken circle 
 
 ^Rosa Mulholland's "Irene," in The Coynliill Magazine. Re- 
 printed in her volume, "Vagrant Verses." 
 
A Month in the United States 29 
 
 surrounds you — nothing, nothing to be seen but the 
 great waste of waters except the striking briUiant 
 pageant in the east, heralding the approach of the 
 new Monarch, Day. In fewer moments than it takes 
 to write these lines the sun has begun to appear above 
 the sharp line of the horizon, apparently twice its 
 normal size, and clothed in rich deep crimson, and in 
 another short space it has raised itself from the 
 waters; and before your eye is satisfied with dwelling 
 upon its beauty, it begins imperiously to assert itself, 
 and you dare no longer look it in the face. There 
 are faiths for which there is less to be said than for 
 that of the worshippers of the sun. I think reverential 
 awe would, in some sort, be present to most minds in 
 view of this morning's glorious sunrise. It must have 
 been at such a time as this that the founder of the 
 Sun-faith received his revelation. 
 
 Friday, August 24, 1883. 
 1VT Ew York ! Brunswick Hotel. Arrived ! I must 
 ^ ^ first go back a little. We were due at Sandy 
 Hook about 5 o'clock this morning, and so there were 
 many who did not care to seek their berths at all. 
 The weather was delicious. The moon and stars 
 shining upon an apparently motionless sea. There 
 were sounds of gaiety In all directions — songs, danc- 
 ing, practical jokes, and so forth. The betting, too, 
 was fast and furious, and the events wagered upon 
 
30 A Month in the United States 
 
 ludicrous In the extreme ; for instance, we were hourly- 
 expecting to meet our Pilot, and many were the wag- 
 ers as to his age, whether married or single, whether 
 he wore a moustache, whether the years of his age 
 were odd or even, and, as a climax of absurdity, 
 one of the most exciting events was whether in 
 boarding bur ship his left or his right foot first 
 touched the deck I I will not stop to recount the 
 various issues of those wagers, except to say the 
 last-named event was undecided, as he jumped on 
 deck! 
 
 About 5 o'clock I first sighted America — that is, 
 Sandy Hook, and presently before the rising sun the 
 clouds "vamoosed"^ and showed us Long Island on 
 our right or starboard hand, and Staten Island on our 
 left or port hand. (Eily, recur to your map.) About 
 8 or lo miles from New York our ship stopped for 
 the Quarantine examination, and here were in wait- 
 ing two steamboats for two very different parties on 
 board ship. One of these was crowded with the 
 local friends of two New York celebrities, Jim Al- 
 leger [name illegible] and Will Simpson, who came 
 out to welcome the latter home, their boat being gaily 
 decorated with all manner of flags. Each of the 
 party on board was furnished with a kind of fog- 
 horn which at intervals was fiercely blown and pro- 
 duced the most discordant sounds — which, however, 
 
 'This is United States slang for "disappeared quickly," from 
 the Spanish vamos, "let us go." 
 
A Month in the United States 3 1 
 
 seemed greatly to gratify the parties immediately 
 concerned. 
 
 The other boat was for the Lord Chief Justice and 
 party and was the very beautiful steam-yacht of Mr. 
 Gerry, a member of the New York Bar, and one of 
 the Reception Committee. 
 
 Into this we got, and in this we steamed into the 
 very noble harbour of New York. The map will 
 show sufficiently the conformation and the relative 
 positions of New York, with Brooklyn on the right 
 (as we steamed up) and Jersey City on the left. The 
 happy idea of our friends (and it was indeed a happy 
 idea) was to give us a kind of coup d'ooil of the three 
 cities. 
 
 I say at once I had no idea of the beauty and the 
 grandeur of the place. Two main impressions were 
 forced upon me — one that the atmosphere had a 
 transparent clearness which even in Southern France I 
 had never seen equalled, and the other that, as befits 
 a mighty Continent, things were (except the mere 
 aggregation of houses) on a much grander scale than 
 in our little islands. 
 
 We steamed up between Long Island (Brooklyn) 
 and New York under the famous Suspension Bridge 
 which connects the two cities together. In space and 
 lightness of appearance (elegance one might say) it 
 greatly exceeds anything of the kind I ever saw. 
 Compared with our hideous railway bridges over the 
 Thames, it is a thing of beauty. It was about 160 
 
32 A Month in the United States 
 
 feet above our heads and on it are two railroads, 
 two carriage roads and a footway about 25 feet 
 wide ! 
 
 On each side of the river is the vast shipping of 
 New York in the open river, but so well protected all 
 round from tempest as to render docks such as we 
 have in Liverpool and London wholly unnecessary. 
 Protection from tempest, however, would not be 
 enough to render docks unnecessary which in London, 
 Liverpool, and so forth are necessary in order to se- 
 cure therein sufficient depths of water. But in New 
 York the tide rises and falls only about 6 feet (as 
 against 16 to 30 feet in London and Liverpool), and 
 there is ample depth for the shipping at all states of 
 the tide along the riverside wharves. 
 
 We steamed up the river and to the New York 
 side of two islands on which are built the principal 
 City institutions of the jail, reformatory, etc., char- 
 acter. The principal island is called Blackwell's. The 
 banks on either side, as we sailed up, are pictur- 
 esque; and here and there are to be seen traces of 
 what were formerly country-house residences, but 
 which have been pushed out further by aggressive city 
 industries. 
 
 One melancholy spot — melancholy and indeed 
 humiliating to an Irishman and to those who are ac- 
 countable for the government of Ireland — was 
 pointed out. Just outside the city and on a waste 
 desolate spot on the river bank are a number of 
 
A Month in the United States 33 
 
 wooden shanties — wretched structures and affording 
 but scant protection from wind and rain. You will 
 guess what they are ? They are the abodes now, as 
 they for years have been, of Irish squatters — poor 
 creatures who, landed here moneyless and friendless, 
 were fain to put up with shelter which a well-bred 
 dog would scorn. These erections are of course tres- 
 passes carelessly suffered, or it may be good-naturedly 
 permitted by the owner of the ground so long as he 
 has no present use for it; but when he has, out go the 
 miserable inmates neck and crop by summary process 
 The jails and reformatory system here contemplates 
 the productive labour of the inmates as an important 
 self-supporting factor. Query. Why not in Great 
 Britain and Ireland? Query. Mackonachie's re- 
 formatory system? 
 
 Still steaming up, we get into the Long Island 
 Sound, putting about stern down the river again — 
 this time on the Brooklyn side of the river and Black- 
 well's Island. 
 
 Then began our first American meal, and a very 
 good beginning it was. Under an awning which 
 sheltered us from the fierce heat, and at the same time 
 made the most of the cooling breeze, we had a break- 
 fast of a very excellent kind and distinctly Parisian in 
 Its main features with a dash of Americanism — the 
 latter principally In the shape of a champagne cock- 
 tail which prefaced the entertainment. Fish cutlets, 
 omelette, salad, melons, other fruit, backed up by de- 
 
34 A Month in the United States 
 
 licious hot corn-cakes, claret, champagne, and coffee, 
 made up our bill of fare. 
 
 Before breakfast was over, we had again passed 
 under the Brooklyn Suspension Bridge and were pass- 
 ing close by a spot full of sad and bitter memories (I 
 fear) to many people, but also full of hopefulness to 
 many more, I believe. I mean Castle Garden, New 
 York, where all the emigrants are usually landed. 
 What has already become of those landed to-day? 
 Some no doubt have had their destination fixed, but^ 
 many, I believe, have come out, hoping for something 
 to turn up and not knowing where to look for that 
 something. 
 
 Anyway, New York has swallowed them up and 
 they have disappeared, making no sign. 
 
 Still we continue steaming down the river, and now 
 we have reached the point where the Hudson River 
 runs to the north, round the north and west of New 
 York. This river is called the Rhine of America, 
 and up to West Point, on the way to Albany (which 
 is the capital of the State of New York) , is said to be 
 extremely beautiful. I propose judging for myself 
 one of these days. Finally we land at a wharf near 
 Twentieth St., where two carriages await us. Sir J. 
 Hannen and son, Martin and myself are deposited at 
 the Brunswick, and the Lord Chief Justice is taken 
 on to the private residence of Colonel Shepard, 
 Barrister, who is the chairman of the Entertaining 
 Committee. 
 
A Month in the United States 35 
 
 I think, but I am not sure, that we are considered 
 to be guests here. 
 
 I am greatly charmed by what I have seen, but 
 physically I feel thoroughly done up, and as I've 
 been up since 4 o'clock this morning nothing would 
 be half so agreeable to me as a bath and a good 
 sleep. But the latter is not yet attainable. To- 
 night we have a serious dinner engagement at which 
 we are to meet the city magnates; but to-morrow we 
 propose loafing about leisurely on our own account. 
 I feel wonderfully well and believe the voyage has 
 done me a world of good. Tell Bertie I've not yet 
 got my land legs. The floors have just yet a very 
 awkward and perplexing habit of rising up to meet 
 you, and you keep balancing yourself sailor-like as if 
 still on the deck of the good ship — and good ship she 
 is — the Celtic. 
 
 Saturday, August 25, 1883. 
 T^RIDAY afternoon was spent almost as agreeably 
 -■- as the forenoon. Mr. Holmes, Attorney-Barris- 
 ter and Counsel for the Northern Pacific Railroad 
 Company, insisted on bringing our party to luneh at 
 the Union League Club, Fifth Avenue, and after a 
 very appetising meal there, we were driven round and 
 through and up and down the Central Park, which 
 seems to be of great size and beautifully laid out, 
 covered with striking statues of Columbian big men, 
 and planted with a wondrous variety of tree, shrub, 
 
36 A Month in the United States 
 
 and flower, which nevertheless all come from this 
 great continent. 
 
 The club-life Is an important element in society 
 here, and we have been temporarily made members of 
 the three principal ones In New York: the Union, the 
 Union League, and the Knickerbocker. Their In- 
 terior arrangements as to furniture and disposition of 
 space are far superior to anything In England; and 
 their adoption of the elevator enables them to have 
 magnificent and very useful rooms high-up — higher 
 than our highest club-houses. If one must be criti- 
 cal, perhaps those I have seen are in some respects a 
 trifle "loud," according to English notions. At 7.30 
 we dined, to meet the Lord Chief at Mr. Shepard's 
 house, which, as becomes the son-in-law of the mighty 
 Vanderbilt, Is grand, and luxuriantly furnished. 
 There are three Vanderbilt houses together, that is, 
 that of the Vanderbilt and those of two of his sons- 
 in-law; and they are so arranged that, while normally 
 wholly independent of one another, they are capable, 
 on great receptions, of being all thrown into one, 
 when the effect may be guessed. 
 
 At dinner each guest was asked to put his auto- 
 graph on his own and every other guest's menu. I 
 enclose mine. I have appended a note of the titles of 
 those of the guests I learned about. 
 
 Mrs. Shepard appeared a reasonably Intelligent 
 and good-looking lady (for an heiress) and was 
 free from all airs. She only appeared before 
 
A Month in the United States 37 
 
 dinner, as it was what the Americans call a "Stag" 
 dinner. 
 
 Mr, Sullivan (himself obviously of Irish descent) 
 remarked we were a good typical representative 
 party of Englishmen. I staggered the party by tell- 
 ing them that of the six, only the Lord Chief and his 
 son were English, for that Sir James Hannen was 
 only an Irishman once removed, and that Martin and 
 I were Irish down to our toe-nails. 
 
 The dinner was good — the company I thought no 
 way brilliant in conversation; but it is fair to remem- 
 ber that formal dinners are not the best places to 
 make the most of any man's humour. I went to bed 
 thoroughly tired; my bed rocking a little; and I slept 
 the sleep which "knits up the ravelled sleave of care," 
 for I awoke at 7 o'clock to a bright clear morning, re- 
 freshed and cheerful. 
 
 Sunday, August 26, 1883. 
 /~\n Saturday night Martin received through me 
 ^-^ (I was already an invited guest) an invitation 
 to an excursion under the auspices and at the charge 
 of Henry Villard, President of the Northern Pacific 
 Railroad Company. It is in connection with the 
 opening by them of a new line right through from 
 St. Paul (see map) to Portland on the Pacific. We 
 are in advance of the main body, which we are to join 
 at St. Paul, d. v., next Monday. It will probably save 
 
38 A Month in the United States 
 
 us a good many pounds in railway tickets and will be 
 pleasant withal. 
 
 Martin and I will probably leave the excursion 
 party at Portland, and, if possible, find our way back 
 by San Francisco and the Southern Union Pacific — 
 probably by St. Louis, Cincinnati, Philadelphia, and 
 New York. 
 
 The Cathedral Church of Saint Patrick, Fifth 
 Avenue, is the church of New York, as far as archi- 
 tectural beauty and grandeur are concerned. It is a 
 very grand building indeed, not unlike the Dundalk 
 Church, but on a much grander scale, and with two 
 spires or towers still incomplete, and for which it is 
 computed £50,000 sterling will be needed. It is 
 made of a stone which is called here marble, but 
 which seems to me very like our granite but much 
 whiter, having much less mica in it. The principal 
 Protestant Church is Episcopal. Low: it is called 
 Trinity Church, and is remarkable in this — that every 
 stone of it was imported from England I This is not 
 an exceptional case, it seems; indeed a Pennsylvania 
 gentleman informed us that it was the case with many 
 of the older churches in that State. Martin and I 
 were both struck by the smallness of the Catholic con- 
 gregation. The church was not half filled. True, 
 it was High Mass and this is the dull season, but still 
 we thought it remarkable. At 6.30 p.m. we crossed 
 to Jersey City, which is divided from New York by 
 the Hudson River; and by the Erie Railway we left 
 
A Month in the United States 39 
 
 for Niagara via Buffalo, arriving at the Falls about 
 7 A.M. 
 
 The night in the Pullman Car and breakfast in the 
 morning (I know you will be surprised, Madam) 
 were not at all disagreeable. The country en route is 
 in many places extremely picturesque; and a fair 
 sprinkling of population, with here and there a big- 
 gish town, are to be found all along the line. Still 
 the cultivation is of the scratchy-patchy order; the reg- 
 ular fencing of fields only seen at intervals, and, com- 
 pared with the appearance of England, Ireland, and 
 Scotland, the whole thing looks raw, unkempt, and 
 wild. 
 
 I may say here, by the way, that the only thing 
 in which towns and country here are (so far as I 
 have noticed) inferior to the old country, is the mat- 
 ter of roads and streets. These are very bad in New 
 York, and nowhere along the line of railway have I 
 noticed any regularly made roads, although there 
 seems to be wisely reserved everywhere, in town and 
 country, ample space for street and road accommoda- 
 tion. 
 
 At Niagara the day was broiling, and our first care 
 was to engage a carriage (at an exorbitant price). 
 With water enough to turn the world's machinery, the 
 local authorities had not utilized a drop to lay the 
 roads, inches thick in dust. 
 
 What shall I say about Niagara? Well, to begin 
 with, for the first time I find the description given of 
 
40 A Month in the United States 
 
 this remarkable spot fairly do it justice as far as de- 
 scription can. Its wonderful beauty and grandeur 
 must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 The vast waters of lakes Michigan, Huron, and 
 Erie lend their mighty forces to send the water on Its 
 way by Lake Ontario to the St. Lawrence River, with 
 terrific pressure through the narrow channel formed 
 in rock which connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario 
 and which is called Niagara River. A short way 
 above the Falls the rush of the waters Is divided by a 
 small island called Goat Island. The fall to the east 
 of this island Is called the American Fall, that to the 
 west the Canadian; the latter is by far the grander in 
 every way, depth of fall, volume of water, etc. 
 Above the fall the effect Is most striking. The great 
 mass of boiling, angry water tears furiously along and 
 seems suddenly to drop into the bowels of the earth 
 and disappear — so sheer and sudden is the fall — and 
 the roar of the fallen and falling waters is all that 
 is noticeable. Below the fall the effect is remarkable 
 and startling. Notwithstanding the enormous vol- 
 ume of water and the height of Its fall, it is literally 
 true, that within a few yards of the Fall the surface 
 of the water Is perfectly clear and almost quiescent 1 
 Fancy this, and after a fall of some i6o feet over the 
 sheer cliff ! In fact, the depth of the river is about 
 another i6o feet, and It would appear that the de- 
 scending water hides Its fury under the calm surface- 
 water and only reappears some two miles lower down 
 
A Month in the United States 41 
 
 the river. In other words, there Is a strong under- 
 surface current which comes to sight again about the 
 spot where the Rapids begin, in which the ill-fated 
 Captain Webb lately met his death. These rapids are 
 simply parts of the river where the channel is rather 
 contracted, and the fall in the river bed considerable, 
 so that there is not only a rapid but a troubled, broken 
 rush of the waters. It is surmised that in the course 
 are rocks and that Captain Webb, partly sucked down 
 by one of the under-currents which prevail, was vio- 
 lently carried against some of them. It appears a 
 small steamship successfully ran the rapids, and on 
 the American side, they are already building another 
 for the like purpose. The exactions and the mode of 
 exactions at Niagara are intolerable. A squint at 
 Nature anywhere here costs you from fifty cents to a 
 dollar. It is not creditable to the two governments 
 to allow this state of things. 
 
 In the evening we left for Chicago via the Grand 
 Trunk Railway, through Port Huron, which is on 
 Lake Huron, and we arrived at 9 A.M. at Chicago. 
 The population along the line, en route, seemed 
 rather thicker than on the Sunday's journey, and the 
 land better tilled; but this would be no safe indication 
 of the state of things farther away from the line. 
 
 I am greatly exercised in my mind as to the trees 
 in the United States and in Canada. I have, as yet, 
 seen no finer timber — for instance, none at all equal- 
 ling what is to be seen in any English demesne. But 
 
42 A Month in the United States 
 
 more: the trees have not the look of age the English 
 trees have. It cannot be that the existing trees are 
 the result of a new and recent planting. I shall get 
 some one to answer my doubts for me. So far, I 
 have not been able to exclaim with any confidence — 
 "This is the forest primeval."^ On all sides are to 
 be seen signs of vigorous and recent clearance — 
 what is called lumber clearance by the natives. The 
 houses almost invariably in the country places and 
 frequently in the towns are made of wood; but no- 
 where have I seen any sign of want — on the contrary, 
 there are visible everywhere satisfactory indications 
 of rough plenty and progress. 
 
 At the country stations (called here depots) I've 
 come across a good many Irishmen and Scotchmen, 
 but comparatively few Englishmen. Generally, with 
 all, the expression is one of satisfaction and content 
 with their condition, but occasionally an Irishman 
 will tell you that living is very dear and that he could 
 live just as well at home. I've not yet seen any Irish 
 Land Settlement, and I am very doubtful whether I 
 shall. I intend to try. 
 
 Tuesday, August 28, 1883. 
 
 ARRIVED at 9 o'clock at Chicago, Grand Pacific 
 Hotel. 
 This is certainly a very rerharkable but not at all 
 interesting city. Its staple businesses are grain-stor- 
 
 'The first words of Longfellow's "Evangeline." 
 
A Month in the United States 43 
 
 ing, pig-killing, meat-preserving, etc., etc. These are 
 useful trades, but not soul-inspiring. All the same, 
 there are some remarkable points in the history of the 
 place. The city is not more than fifty years old. 
 Originally it was entirely built of wood, but in 
 1 87 1 a fearful fire reduced two-thirds or more 
 of the town to ashes. Since '71 it has not only been 
 rebuilt in stone with noble buildings and fine streets — 
 even wider than those of New York — but it has more 
 than trebled its population, until now, with a popula- 
 tion approaching three-quarters of a million, it is 
 about second in population and certainly second in 
 trade of all the cities of the States. Its hotels are 
 enormous and with all possible modern comforts and 
 improvements. The Palace House is said to be the 
 largest hotel in the world. 
 
 Still with all this it is far from being a graceful 
 or even a cleanly city. The streets are certainly wide, 
 but they are shockingly paved, and they are spoiled 
 by numerous tramways : again the streets are not in 
 all cases continuously and regularly built upon, and, 
 out of the principal thoroughfares, there is a raw, un- 
 finished, generally unkempt appearance, which recalls 
 the early description of American cities by Dickens. 
 In one respect the city authorities pre-eminently de- 
 serve credit. They have secured for the Chicago of 
 the future and the present the most extensive parks to 
 be found in connection with any American city, or 
 probably any city in the world. They have in the 
 
44 A Month in the United States 
 
 parks and along the Lake (Michigan) on which the 
 city abuts, secured for the public for all time, some 
 35 miles of drives through well-wooded and well-ar- 
 ranged parklands. The lake (pray understand, 
 May!) is about as big as England and Scotland put 
 together, and makes Chicago, to all intents and all 
 appearance, a seaport. In the offing you see big 
 three-masted vessels, and there is a large quay or pier 
 along and opposite the entrance of the River Chi- 
 cago, which river floats vessels of large tonnage right 
 into the heart of the city. 
 
 I made the acquaintance of two local celebrities 
 (Irish), namely Paddy Ryan and Michael McDon- 
 ald. Paddy may be dismissed with the statement 
 that he is a fighting-man lately defeated in the twenty- 
 four-foot ring by a compatriot, Sullivan. He is a Tip- 
 perary man. He left Ireland at eight years of age. 
 He now keeps a liquor store and seems a good-na- 
 tured lumbering chap of about six feet high and 
 weighs about seventeen stone. Michael McDonald 
 deserves more than a passing word. He, too, keeps 
 a liquor store, a gambling house (in spite of the au- 
 thorities), and he "runs" a granite quarry. But his 
 principal importance arises from his political position. 
 He is supposed to direct and control what is called 
 the rowdy element in Chicago — largely made up of 
 our countrymen — and this gives him very great local 
 influence. He is a rough diamond, not over-scrupu- 
 
A Month in the United States 45 
 
 lous, with a decisive, masterful way about him, which 
 clearly marks him out as a leader of men. He shows 
 great knowledge of European politics, or at least of 
 those of France and Great Britain. He is keenly 
 Irish, but was loud in his condemnation of the assas- 
 sination and dynamite policy. His friends claim for 
 him that he returned the present Mayor of Chicago 
 — the first Democratic mayor returned for Chicago 
 for thirty years. 
 
 By far the most interesting feature of our stay in 
 Chicago, however, was a visit to Pullman, a small 
 town about sixteen miles from Chicago and called 
 after the inventor of the travelling and sleeping car, 
 which is also called after him. No one who has not 
 had to travel long distances, and by night, can fully 
 appreciate the boon to many, many thousands which 
 the Pullman car really is. Since last Sunday (I am 
 writing on Wednesday) we have travelled about 
 1,200 miles and spent two nights in the Pullman, and 
 I affirm I do not feel now as tired as I have fre- 
 quently done travelling from London to Liverpool. 
 It is difficult to say where the difference (I know you 
 dislike sleeping cars) in favour of the system exists, 
 but it does and markedly. You can move about, go 
 out now and then to end of car, in the open air, easily 
 alight at each depot, occasionally vary the monotony 
 by comfortably washing your hands and brushing your 
 hair (If you have any) and, when nature calls out 
 
46 A Month in the United States 
 
 for sustenance, you are served with what you need in 
 a cleanly, comfortable way in your carriage. And 
 finally when night has closed in upon you, you can go 
 to bed, really to bed, and with a sense of refreshment 
 and relief. I have said nothing about a point which, 
 however, greatly concerns the comfort of the journey, 
 I mean the fact that the attendant is unceasing in his 
 perambulation up and down, and down and up the 
 train, with papers, books, cards, fruit, bon-bons, etc. 
 The nature of the contract and relation of the Pull- 
 man Company to and with the Railway Company 
 which runs their cars is remarkable. The Pullman 
 Company lets the cars to the Railway Company, and 
 the former undertakes to keep it in repair for three 
 cents per mile traversed, and it also supplies a con- 
 ductor and a porter or attendant for each car. The 
 Pullman Company then receives all that is paid for the 
 use of their car, and the Railway Company receives 
 only the ordinary railway fare. 
 
 It is clear that in this country of so-called equality, 
 one thing that most strongly recommended the Pull- 
 man was the fact that it enabled the rich to create 
 the clearest possible inequality in the conditions of 
 even ordinary travel. The special luxury of the very 
 rich is to have a special Pullman of their own, with 
 sitting-rooms and bedrooms, rooms for servants, and, 
 above all, suitable accommodation for your cook! 
 This is the kind of thing that the Vanderbilts and 
 Jay Goulds and Pullmans do in their own case. 
 
A Month in the United States 47 
 
 I admit this is a long preamble to my visit to Pull- 
 man. 
 
 The second in command at the Pullman Company 
 (now a limited company) is Robert Caird, brother to 
 Mrs. Thomas Threlfall, to whom I had a letter of 
 introduction. Nothing could exceed his kindness. 
 He brought us down to Pullman, gave us lunch, took 
 us over the works, explained the history of the place, 
 and finally sent us on our journey to the northwest, 
 rejoicing, and furnished free with best Pullman tickets 
 as far as St. Paul and Minneapolis on the Missis- 
 sippi River! 
 
 The history of Pullman City is indeed remarkable. 
 In 1880 there were not ten houses to be seen within 
 sight of what is now a town of about 3,000 inhabi- 
 tants. The greater number of the inhabitants are 
 work people, at the manufactory of railway cars, of 
 which of all kinds (including the famous Pullman 
 sleeping-cars) a greater number is made than in any 
 works in the world — probably in any three or four 
 like works. The city is built, and I may add, gov- 
 erned upon the highest principle of parental govern- 
 ment, a system of government not generally in fa- 
 vour. Here it is, and it ought to be in favour, for the 
 greatest regard has been had to the health, improve- 
 ment, and amusements of the people. There is a 
 theatre, billiard-room, reading-, book-, lending li- 
 brary, savings bank, . . . put together. Excellent 
 and neat dwelling-houses at moderate rents for the 
 
48 A Month in the United States 
 
 men furnished with all reasonable modern appliances 
 of comfort, and all of health. 
 
 It is, in truth, a model town. Wages all round 
 are high, and the lady who presides over the lend- 
 ing-library has a hundred dollars a month, equal to 
 about £200 a year of our money. A good many of 
 the men are Irish, but not the best paid, in other 
 words, not the doers of the best skilled work. 
 
 Wednesday, August 29, 1883. 
 T EFT Chicago at 12.30 for St. Paul and Minne- 
 -*-^ apolis and arrived at about 6 o'clock, A.M. The 
 journey was uneventful and nothing very startling, 
 till we crossed the Mississippi River. It is certainly 
 a grand volume of water, greater than anything we 
 can show, until our rivers gain breadth and dignity 
 from the sea ; but still I was disappointed. I expected 
 something even greater and grander. No doubt, 
 when we recross it some 500 miles farther south, on 
 our way home, it will fully come up to my expecta- 
 tions. St. Paul and Minneapolis are both built or 
 the river, which is navigable for ships up to St. Paul. 
 The river is a great transport agency, not only for 
 river steamships and vessels, but also for the most 
 enormous lumber (that is, timber) rafts, which float 
 literally several thousand miles. Minneapolis is fa- 
 mous for its milling and its flour. The mills are 
 worked by the water-power of the Mississippi, which 
 
A Month in the United States 49 
 
 is said for this purpose to be the finest in the world. 
 The flour, too, is largely imported into England and 
 Ireland, and its excellence is owing to the super-ex- 
 cellence of the wheat grown in and along the valley 
 of this great river. 
 
 You see on all sides of you at the small railway 
 depots great elevator grain stores, in which are 
 loaded the grain bought from the farmers all 
 round by the local agent of the big millers in the big 
 towns. 
 
 Part of the district we traversed to-day had a per- 
 fectly English rural look at places — comfortabl^ 
 homesteads and well-tilled land. At other places the 
 lands for miles are tenantless and left as the waters 
 of the great flood left them. I could not help think- 
 ing that the crush and struggle lor life in some small 
 corners of the earth ought not to be as severe as they 
 are, and that they would not be if only men knew bet- 
 ter the uncrowded places ready to receive them, and 
 ready to give up wholesome plenty at but small la- 
 bour and entreaty. 
 
 Two things I have not yet seen, this side of the 
 Atlantic: a really big tree and a mountain. Not 
 that the country is not here and there fairly well 
 wooded, but the timber is not of great growth; and 
 not that the land is flat, for the places are after 
 all few where you do not see from your carriage 
 window undulations pleasant to the eye to dwell 
 upon. 
 
so A Month in the United States 
 
 Thursday, August 30, 1883. 
 ' I ^O-DAY for the first time we saw between Minne- 
 -*- apolls and St. Vincent a prairie stretching away 
 in all directions, an unbroken, tenantless plain — per- 
 fectly level, on which (but for the tape-line of the 
 railway) the hand of man had never laboured. It is 
 certainly, if not a striking, a very suggestive sight. 
 
 At one or two places, say at Carlisle and at Rothe- 
 say, a very different sight was to be seen. Here the 
 land had a well-cultivated appearance; in some fields 
 the steam-reaper was at work; in others the men and 
 women were building up the sheaves into stacks; 
 in others the steam-plough was already at work, 
 breaking up the land for the spring wheat, which is 
 the best and fetches the highest prices. Here is a 
 curious fact — curious at least to me. The wheat is 
 sown in the end of August or beginning of Septem- 
 ber, and it has got a few inches above the ground 
 when the hard weather sets in. In England this 
 would generally be fatal; the frost nips the early veg- 
 etation. But in America the snow covers it up and 
 shields it until the opening of spring, when the heat 
 melts the protecting snow-cover and affords to the 
 ground and the young vegetation the very moisture 
 which they want. 
 
 We stayed at St. Paul only long enough to have a 
 fair survey of the city, and then on again, and finally 
 via St. Vincent, Emerson, and St. Boniface we 
 
A Month in the United States 5 1 
 
 reached Winnipeg at 6.30 A.M. (Friday). From 
 Chicago to this place the distance is between 700 and 
 800 miles. 
 
 Winnipeg, Friday, August 31, 1883. 
 "X^ZiNNiPEG is a town only about four years old 
 * ^ and has now between 25,000 and 30,000 peo- 
 ple in it ! It has the marks of a new town in every 
 way, just as the new American towns have. Fine 
 wide streets, irregular houses, a fine brick building 
 side by side with a wooden shanty, always dirty, 
 muddy, unpaved streets, and a half-wild, half-tamed 
 look about it ! We are going to drive presently, and 
 I must break off. 
 
 I have not altered my watch since I sailed from 
 Liverpool — an age since ! It will give Eily some idea 
 of how far west we have got to say that while at Win- 
 nipeg the true sun-time is about 11.50 A.M., In Lon- 
 don the true sun-time as by my watch is 5.40 P.M. 
 You, Madam, and Clara, will be drinking your after- 
 noon tea about the time that we are rising from a late 
 breakfast. 
 
 Winnipeg, Saturday, Sept. i, 1883. 
 "^^ 7e spent the day very pleasantly. Mr. C. R. 
 ^ Brydges, the Land Commissioner of the Hud- 
 son Bay Company, at once called on us and arranged 
 our day for us in a very agreeable way. 
 ,' First, I went to his office and had a long and inter- 
 
52 A Month in the United States 
 
 esting talk about the affairs of the Company. He 
 looks upon the shares as being intrinsically worth the 
 high prices (up to £39 and £40) paid last year for 
 them. He thinks that in ten or fifteen years the capi- 
 tal will be reduced by repayments from land sales to 
 a nominal amount, and that, too, without substan- 
 tially reducing the land-holding of the company. He 
 thinks the great "boom" of last year in land was very 
 injurious to Winnipeg, but that the town is sure from 
 its situation and the rich lands which surround it to 
 acquire a great position. In answer to my objection 
 that the Canadian Pacific with its twenty-five mill- 
 ions of acres and the North West Land Company, 
 with its five million acres (to say nothing of smaller 
 land companies and of the government land), would 
 be greatly in the way of the Hudson Company in their 
 sales, he said that was so, but that the Hudson 
 Company had an honourable tradition behind them; 
 that they sold on uniform, generally known terms; 
 that their title was clear; that they insisted on no con- 
 ditions as to settlement or the breaking up of the 
 land — in fine, that the Hudson did sell, and did sell 
 almost preferentially to the other companies. He 
 complained that a good deal of the land round Win- 
 nipeg had got into the hands of speculators who were 
 holding for the rise, instead of putting it into market 
 or cultivating it. 
 
 As to the Canadian Pacific Railway Company, he 
 thinks it will have an important effect in opening up 
 
A Month in the United States 53 
 
 Northwest Canada ; but he seems by no means clear 
 that the line will pay its shareholders. He thinks 
 that after passing Brandon, the line by going farther 
 north than it does would have followed the fertile 
 land, whereas in its present direction westward it 
 crosses what he contends is the American desert, 
 which he says is to be found continued in Texas, 
 Arizona, etc. 
 
 We saw a good deal of the town, which is very in- 
 teresting. Here you may see the town growing un- 
 der your eyes — the very prairie being trodden down 
 into the semblance of a new street, while a hundred 
 yards farther stands a building of a most imposing 
 kind, such as would not disgrace Manchester or 
 Liverpool. In the unoccupied places wooden shanties 
 are erected by temporary dwellers — tradesmen who 
 are for the time working in the town; farmers or in- 
 tending farmers who have not yet settled their loca- 
 tion west or northwest. Good masons are gettmg 
 about $3 a day — equal to about 12s. 6d. English 
 money. Carpenters are getting about the same. The 
 price of a shave is from 15 to 25 cents, i.e., from 8d. 
 to IS. However, it is to be added that these high 
 prices do not hold all the year round. 
 
 We visited Portage la Prairie, which is about 50 
 miles from Winnipeg and on the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 It is greatly inferior to Winnipeg in size and In 
 every other respect. It, too, has recently sprung up. 
 
54 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 We got a carriage here and drove miles out of 
 the town to see the recent settlements on the prairie, 
 and this was a sight of the very greatest interest 
 to me. 
 
 As a matter of picturesqueness I am disappointed 
 in the prairie. There is a certain attractiveness in the 
 flat uniform richness of the landscape covered with 
 a golden wheat harvest — and a pleasant suggestive- 
 ness of rude comfort and plenty; but it is dull, very 
 dull. Not a mountain, nor even a hill to be seen — 
 as smooth as the calm sea and as flat. Except in the 
 neighbourhood of the rivers, there are no trees to be 
 seen, and even these do not appear to acquire any 
 great height. The absence of the trees is a curable 
 matter, and already one sees signs of planting in and 
 about the houses which promise speedily to add some 
 diversity to the landscape as well as afford to the 
 homesteads valuable protection against the fierce win- 
 ter winds, which at times sweep across the plains with 
 a fury almost resistless. 
 
 The houses are all of wood, and none of them 
 large. The majority of the settlers here are Scotch, 
 and, while the land seems fairly well tilled, there is 
 not much attempt at neatness in their gardens, offices, 
 yards, or houses. But all whom we have yet seen in 
 Canada seem well fed and well clad. Except 
 amongst some wretched Indians there is not the 
 slightest appearance of want. As Martin remarked 
 yesterday while watching the children file out of 
 
A Month in the United States 55 
 
 the school, "Not a darned stocking on one of 
 them!" 
 
 About five miles from Portage we went into the 
 house of one Woods. His father bought some years 
 ago 160 acres of land partly in cultivation, paying 
 $3^ an acre, equal to $560, or in English money to 
 £112. In the kitchen the dinner was on the table. A 
 great appetising dish of ham and eggs flanked by 
 beer-jugs and vegetable marrows, cabbage and pota- 
 toes. In the yard was a lot of poultry — geese, tur- 
 keys, ordinary fowls, also pigs and a dozen milch 
 cows. His family consisted of two brothers and two 
 sisters and a couple of servants, and when asked what 
 he did with his fowls, eggs, pigs, butter, milk, etc., 
 his invariable answer, given with a satisfied chuckle, 
 was "Eat 'em." 
 
 Now this was a case in which the land had been 
 bought, but the Dominion Government gives 160 
 acres for $10, if within a fixed number of years the 
 farmer settling breaks up a certain number of acres 
 for arable purposes ! Just think of this, and then of 
 the miserable patches of wretched land on which the 
 Irish peasant so often tries to make out a living ! The 
 two difficulties are fuel and the winters. The former 
 difl[iculty will, it is believed, speedily disappear, as coal 
 or a superior lignite is supposed to be plentiful in Can- 
 ada ; and this will of course go greatly to mitigate the 
 winter's severity. The winters, although severe, 
 tested by temperature (frequently 30° below zero). 
 
^6 A Motith in the United States 
 
 are very dry and bracing, and several people tell me 
 are not to be compared in discomfort to a severe 
 muggy winter in England. 
 
 In our drive we visited two encampments of In- 
 dians with their tepees or tents in the open plain. 
 They were of two tribes — the Objibaways and the 
 Sues (I am not sure of my orthography). The for- 
 mer are said to be a harmless race and to be native in 
 the country. The Sues came to Canada across the 
 American frontier, after having (it is said) perpe- 
 trated a series of atrocities in Minnesota. This about 
 a dozen years since. The native Indians are treated 
 very kindly by the Government. They are falling 
 away (but not very rapidly) before the advance of 
 what the Whites call civilisation; and the Govern- 
 ment reserves certain districts for them and also sup- 
 plies them with a certain amount of food. They are 
 generally well spoken of, and one of the oldest of the 
 Hudson Bay Agents told me that, so long as faith 
 was kept with them, they kept faith. Their tents are 
 wretched in the extreme. Blankets to lie upon and 
 some wood to cook their food, but no sign of stores 
 of food or drink or clothes. To a slight extent they 
 are absorbed by the v/hite population; and, as half- 
 breeds, some of them rise to power and distinction. 
 Indeed the present Prime Minister of the Province of 
 Manitoba — Mr. Knockway — is a half-breed. The 
 Sues are physically not inferior to Whites as to size, 
 muscularity, etc., the others decidedly inferior. 
 
A Month in the United States 57 
 
 On Saturday evening we dined at the Manitoba 
 Club as guests at a dinner given to Mr. Archibold (a 
 cousin of the late Mr, Justice Archibold), who was 
 on a visit here, but who was the first Lieutenant-Gov- 
 ernor of Manitoba. The speeches were to me most 
 interesting. The ex-Gov^ernor gave an account of his 
 first entry into Winnipeg in 1870 (exactly thirteen 
 years ago) , when his journey from Montreal occupied 
 twenty-six days and when the census of Winnipeg 
 then taken showed seventy houses and a population 
 of about 350! Now the population is between 25,- 
 000 and 30,000, and you can get from Montreal in 
 about 48 hours! 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 2, 1883. 
 A T THE Saturday's dinner we made the acquaintance 
 -^^^ of the Catholic Archbishop Tache — a Frenchman 
 — who was one of the most honoured guests at the 
 banquet. There was also the Protestant Bishop — a 
 Doctor Macrae. They seem to get on remarkably 
 well; there is no religious bickering, and even on the 
 vexed question of education they pull together. There 
 is a University of Manitoba which is merely an ex- 
 amining and degree-granting body (as distinguished 
 from a teaching body), upon the Board of Directors 
 of which each religious body has fair representation. 
 The Archbishop is a remarkable man. He has made 
 many missions amongst the Indians and has effected 
 large conversions amongst them. He, too, speaks 
 
58 A Month in the United States 
 
 well of them, and says they are difficult to deal with 
 only when they get contaminated by admixture with 
 the Whites ! To-day we went to High Mass at his 
 church, St. Boniface — the name of the place and of 
 the church — and heard a French sermon. St. Boni- 
 face Is across the Red River over against Winnipeg. 
 It is a French Settlement, and to this day the school 
 lessons are taught alternately in French and in Eng- 
 lish ! It was quite curious to notice In the village the 
 French surnames as well as the French names descrip- 
 tive of the particular business carried on: "Epicler," 
 "charcutier," etc. I see I have not mentioned one 
 main peculiarity of the prairie land, which renders It 
 so easy of cultivation. Stones are almost unknown in 
 it ! Fancy this In view of the braes of Klllowen ! The 
 plough runs without let or hindrance through a black 
 mould varying In thickness from two to eight feet. 
 So rich Is the land that so far manure Is unnecessary, 
 though it must in time be used, and In some places the 
 same crop has year after year without rest or Inter- 
 ruption been taken out of the land. This, however, 
 is considered a too exhaustive and an unwise system 
 to pursue. 
 
 Monday, Sept. 3, 1883. 
 " I ^His evening we start for Glyndon right south (re- 
 -■- tracing our steps) and then go on to Fargo on 
 the Northern Pacific line, where we hope to join the 
 great Vlllard Excursion Party on their way to the 
 Pacific Ocean at Portland. 
 
WILLIAM yi. EVARTS 
 
A Month in the United States 59 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 4, 1883. 
 T AST night we left Winnipeg by the evening train, 
 -■-^ and traveUing via Emerson, St. Vincent, and 
 Glyndon, arrived at Fargo, a station on the Northern 
 Pacific Line. At Emerson we were joined by the 
 Hon. Broderick, M.P. for a division of Surrey (son 
 of Lord Middleton). 
 
 We reached Fargo at 8 o'clock and found the place 
 en fete in expectation of the arrival of the excursion 
 trains carrying the Villard party. 
 
 The only thing noticeable about the decorations 
 was that they were formed from the products of the 
 district, wheat, oats, Indian corn, and so forth. There 
 were in all four trains, on the first of which were our 
 host Villard, President of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 way, Sir James Hannen and Lord Justice Bowen. 
 No. I train was bang full, and our directions were to 
 get into the first train in which there was room ; but 
 it was found there would not be room until No. 4 
 arrived. 
 
 However, No. 2 duly arrived and we were 
 promptly admitted and found ourselves amongst 
 friends, viz. — Grey, M.P. (not Gray), Henry Ed- 
 wards, M.P., Horace Davey, M.P., Q.C., W. M. 
 Evarts (the Leader of the U. S. Bar), Rev. Stem- 
 thall (Manchester) , Bruce (Engineer, London) , Sam- 
 uelson, Jr., M.P., Buxton, M.P., Bryce, M.P. The 
 swell of our party is Grant (General Ulysses), who 
 
6o A Month in the United States 
 
 was, as you know, twice President of the U. S. At 
 every station he is the centre of attraction. Occasion- 
 ally he gives them a word or two — no more — but gen- 
 erally the proceedings begin and end with hand-shak- 
 ing — the little ones being lifted up to touch the hand 
 of their great General. There is some genuine inter- 
 est about Grant, but no enthusiasm such as we under- 
 stand it; but Americans tell me it is a weakness they 
 do not indulge in. Every place we come to is gay 
 with flags, triumphal arches, sentences of welcome in 
 mammoth letters, made of flowers, sheaves of grain, 
 etc. "Welcome Villard," "The capital city (of the 
 particular State) welcomes President Villard's 
 guests," and so on. 
 
 At most of the towns, big and little, a troupe of 
 well-dressed little girls rush into the carriages with 
 bouquets of flowers for each traveller. 
 
 What greatly impresses me is the harmonious way 
 in which all seem to join in making the whole affair 
 "run," as they call it. I have not noticed a policeman 
 taking any part whatever in the order of proceedings; 
 and, looking at the crowd, it is impossible to do as 
 you can in England so easily — distinguish classes. 
 They are all one class and even in the style and man- 
 ner of dress^ — except when in actual working clothes 
 — there is but little difference. 
 
 I ought earlier to have mentioned in reference to 
 General Grant that, noticing his apparent popularity 
 I asked whether he was a likely candidate for the 
 
A Month in the United States 6i 
 
 next Presidency. The answer (and that by a friend 
 of his) was, "No, he was suspected of corruption 
 when in office, and is not trusted." It is very curious 
 to note that no pubHc man is free from this imputation 
 of corruption in popular opinion — whether he be a 
 political person or merely president of a railroad or 
 of any other public company. Even judges and juries 
 are accused of corruption, and certainly at times justly 
 accused. It is the worst trait I notice in the national 
 character that these things are mentioned with a 
 shrug and a grin — as if they must be, and the men 
 engaged in them are not, when detected, overwhelmed 
 with contempt and disgrace as they commonly would 
 be with us. It is common, too, to hear speech of the 
 bribery of the members of the local Legislatures and 
 governing bodies and even of the United States legis- 
 lative body. Since the days of Walpole this has been 
 unknown (at least in the grosser mode) in England 
 — except in a few notable instances. 
 
 Bismarck, Wednesday, Sept. 5, 1883. 
 /'~\ UR yesterday's journey extended from Fargo to 
 ^-^ the town( Bismarck) , which is the capital of the 
 corn-growing State of Dakota. The considerable 
 places we passed were Tower City, Valley City, 
 Jamestown, Cleveland, Crystal Springs, Sterling, and 
 Clarke. 
 
 Near Tower City we had what' might, with less 
 
62 A Month in the United States 
 
 care than they exercise here, have been a serious acci- 
 dent. We have two engines to our train (No. 2) and 
 the axle-tree of the tender of the second of the engines 
 broke right in two from some flaw in the iron. This 
 was discovered in time to prevent the chance of the 
 engines leaving the line — indeed the passengers in the 
 train did not know that anything untoward had hap- 
 pened until the train stopped. 
 
 The delay of a couple of hours was a great delight 
 to many. It would have been to you, Madam, if you 
 had been here, and to you, Rosa, especially, and above 
 all to you. May. We were in the middle of the un- 
 broken prairie — several miles from the nearest town 
 or indeed dwelling-place : the weather was delicious, 
 the air crisp and delightfully bracing — the sun shin- 
 ing brightly and the great world of prairie flowers 
 (and botanists say it is a great world) giving forth 
 for the occasion all their beauty and all their fra- 
 grance. 
 
 There are some three or four ladies of the party, 
 and these and several of the gentlemen set themselves 
 in a determined way to make a specimen-collection. I 
 am not as you know, Madam, learned in such matters, 
 but I will venture to beg your gracious acceptance of 
 the enclosed sample of the wild rose of the American 
 prairie. 
 
 It was very amusing to note that, although the 
 scene of our disaster was remote from the busy haunts 
 of men and women, yet very soon after it happened 
 
A Month in the United States 63 
 
 vehicles were to be seen converging to us from all di- 
 rections across the prairie. Their occupants, ladies 
 and gentlemen, would not disgrace Regent Street in 
 the season. But I think this full-dress appearance 
 was to be accounted for by the fact that the settlers 
 were on their way to greet us in the nearest town. 
 We reached Bismarck about 2 this morning — sleeping 
 in the cars. Under the circumstances the night was 
 as pleasant as could be expected, but certainly not so 
 pleasant as the day. The members of the party move 
 freely from carriage to carriage along the whole 
 length of the train, chatting pleasantly. Then some 
 write, some read, some play whist (very bad whist) 
 and so the day passes quickly along. To-day there 
 was some serious work to do in Bismarck. Mrs. Vil- 
 lard was to lay the foundation-stone of the capitol 
 here in the capital city of the State, and accordingly 
 we were ordered to be in line by six o'clock. A great 
 procession formed and proceeded in great state and 
 with every variety of equipage to the locus in quo. 
 (Frank will, if needful, translate.) 
 
 I did not go : the proceedings are now going on as 
 I write. What is now? Well, I will tell you. I have 
 not altered my watch since I sailed from Liverpool, 
 and I am pretty well able to tell at any given moment 
 what you are all about — whether getting up or going 
 to bed, sitting down to breakfast or rising from the 
 dinner-table. As I write, it is with you about 4.30 
 P.M., and Clara is beginning to think it is time Gas8 
 
64 yi Month in the United States 
 
 brought her afternoon tea. Here, by the sun's true 
 time, It is not quite 10 A.M.! I am of course getting 
 farther behind you as I get more and more westward. 
 What the difference will be when I get to Portland 
 and San Francisco I don't know ; but I will note and 
 tell you. 
 
 (Frank ! Be good enough to explain for the benefit 
 of your younger brother and of your younger sisters 
 the principle on which time is reckoned with reference 
 to the sun, and further explain how starting from 
 Rostrevor as a fixed point you get before that time if 
 you go east, and fall behind it as you go west. Do this 
 in a few lucid sentences, intelligible to the meanest 
 comprehension.) 
 
 The sight (or the sights) of this morning was the 
 famous Sitting Bull, the Chief of the Sioux Indians. 
 (By the way, I have previously spelt this by sound 
 and incorrectly.) I shook hands (as part of the pro- 
 gramme) with the old ruffian. It was he who In Min- 
 nesota and Dakota cut to pieces a number of Ameri- 
 can soldiers a few years ago under command of a 
 dashing cavalry officer called Colonel-General Custer. 
 After this business a number of the Sioux crossed the 
 border (as I think I have already mentioned) into 
 Canada. He is a remarkable looking man. He is 
 medium height and broad-shouldered. His face is 
 certainly fine, and his eyes large, dark-coloured, and 
 thoughtful. His forehead is broad and low — cer- 
 tainly a clever head and take him altogether I should 
 
SITTING BULL 
 
A Month in the United States * 65 
 
 certainly not set him down as a cruel or cold-blooded 
 man. He wore a crucifix round his neck; but the su- 
 perintendent who acted as translator did not seem to 
 think that there was much real significance in this 
 Christian and Catholic emblem. By a curious cus- 
 tom amongst the Sioux the men anoint their hair and 
 plait it while the women allow it to hang dishevelled 
 on their shoulders. 
 
 I must here note, while it is in my mind, a remark- 
 able characteristic of all the towns and cities however 
 new on this great continent (I include Canada). It 
 is this: They have amongst them (even when their 
 streets are not properly made and when they are de 
 ficient in many of the commonest conveniences in old 
 places) all the very latest inventions. Thus in every 
 business place of any pretensions, in most professional 
 men's houses, and in many private houses there is elec- 
 tric light. One lady at Winnipeg informed me she 
 always ordered from her butcher and other trades- 
 people by telephone. Do not tell this to Mrs. Fryer 
 (who is, I hope, very well) or she will be wanting it 
 in Harley Street! Again, the electric light is not un- 
 commonly to be found in towns of a population of 
 2,000 or 3,000. At Fargo they had an electric light 
 fixed about sixty feet high, which is visible forty 
 miles off and by which (they say) you can read a 
 quarter of a mile off. At Bismarck there was a strong 
 illustration of this early goaheadness. Fire is a great 
 enemy whom they dread, looking to the easily igniti- 
 
66 A Month in the United States 
 
 ble character of their buildings and in some places 
 their scant supply of water. You find, therefore, their 
 Fire Salvage Department well organised in every 
 town; but in Bismarck they have got what I suppose 
 is hardly or but little known in England, namely, a 
 chemical fire engine directed to the extinguishment of 
 fire by means which its name indicates. 
 
 Thursday, Sept. 6, 1883. 
 {En route) 
 
 T WISH to begin to-day's note by a word of apology 
 ^ to Sitting Bull. I am told by well-informed Amer- 
 icans that S. B. is not the ruffian I have called him, 
 and that the better opinion now is that he was not 
 guilty of any unwarlike or treacherous conduct in re- 
 lation to the defeat of General Custer's force, which 
 was fairly met by S. B. in the open, but met by a 
 vastly superior force to that of the American General. 
 
 There is little to say descriptive of Bismarck. De- 
 scribe one of the new cities of the States, and you have 
 described all. 
 
 The presence of the Celtic-Irish element speedily 
 showed itself in one who boldly announced himself as 
 a vendor of "Krubeens." I should not be surprised, 
 Madam, if (notwithstanding your well-known na- 
 tional feeling) it were necessary to explain that this 
 means "pig's feet." One other Irish item. A grand 
 printed notice, obviously official, announced that all 
 
A Month in the United States 67 
 
 who helped the great show deserved to be encouraged, 
 but all who did not were to be "boycotted" ! There 
 is obviously no Coercion Act in force here. 
 
 A little out of order I want to record the first place 
 in which I saw a hill, or, as they call them, "Bluff." 
 As we approached Valley City, a low range of hills 
 appeared and were as grateful to my eye, tired of the 
 monotonous prairie, as water to the thirsty palate. 
 But these hills have a special importance in the con- 
 formation of the country. They are, in fact, the di- 
 viding line of two great water sheds. It is startling, 
 but it is true, that the waters falling to the east of 
 them fi-nd their way after thousands of miles to Hud- 
 son Bay and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence and those 
 falling to the west to the great rivers of the south and 
 the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 Outside Bismarck and within half a mile of the 
 town we cross the mighty Missouri. You recollect 
 Henry Russell's song; I've not heard it since I was a 
 boy: 
 
 "To the West, to the West, to the Land of the Free, 
 Where mighty Missouri rolls down to the sea. 
 Where a man is a man if he's willing to toil 
 And the humblest may gather the fruits of the soil." 
 
 Well, Missouri is a mighty but it is also a muddy 
 river. The water is now low, but the brown devastat- 
 ing mark of the winter's flood is to be seen high and 
 far up on the banks, forcibly suggesting what it may 
 be at its best or worst. 
 
68 A Month in the United States 
 
 From this the country is to the eye, and in fact, less 
 rich in pasture and less cultivated, and bluffs are to be 
 found in all directions rising suddenly, apparently, 
 from the plain graced now and then, but sparsely, 
 with trees. 
 
 At little Missouri we came upon scenery really 
 grand. I am poor at description. Imagine an amphi- 
 theatre of mountains rising precipitously from the 
 level of the railway track which winds around their 
 base for more than the semicircle. Imagine a flat 
 plain inside the circle — flat and monotonous with one 
 great exception. Right in the centre of the circle rises 
 a blufl higher than the rest, standing alone — its sum- 
 mit a great plateau and its base washed by the little 
 Missouri. I was startled when asked to ride up and 
 down this great stone castle, but like several others I 
 got on a wiry mustang pony and very soon found my- 
 self climbing something very like a wall. Coming 
 down was even worse, and I should not be at all in- 
 clined to repeat the ride. But I must say the view 
 from the plateau was very fine and was a specimen of 
 scenery new to me. The sides of the hills were com- 
 pletely denuded of all clay by the fierce rains of the 
 winter and spring and yet vegetation of varied tints 
 clung to their sides, and, bathed in the rich glow of 
 the approaching sunset, presented a marvellous bit of 
 glorious colouring. At our feet the little Missouri 
 lay, and but for the presence in one spot of our train 
 — itself a summary of the material civilisation of 
 
A Month in the United States 69 
 
 nineteen centuries — we could truly say we looked upon 
 the scene exactly as it appeared to the Crowfeet In- 
 dians or other aboriginal inhabitants before the ag- 
 gressive foot of the white man was ever planted upon 
 it. 
 
 Close by, a certain Marquis — son of the Duke of 
 Vallombrosa (it is said) — has established a great cat- 
 tle ranch. A month ago an attack was made upon 
 him by the cowboys or cattle herds whose interests he 
 was supposed to be affecting. He shot one mortally 
 and maimed two others: since which his days have 
 been peace. He is a liner looking man and bigger 
 than Parnell, but reminded me and others of the 
 latter. At 6 o'clock this morning (I was up at 5.30) 
 we reached the Yellowstone River and for miles our 
 track ran so close to its banks that I could almost dip 
 a long stick into the bright clear water — for the water 
 was bright and clear. Indeed it is the first river which 
 was not muddy and which can boast a pebbly bank. 
 Some of these reaches in the early morning sunlight 
 looked perfectly lovely. On one side of the train the 
 bluffs lifted their heads; on the other ran the river. 
 The flat spaces at the base of the bluffs and sometimes 
 lying between them are, it appears, by some geologists 
 accounted for thus : They allege that the intervening 
 spaces were originally deposits of coal or of lignite, 
 and that in some great incendiary act of Nature they 
 were destroyed. 
 
 At 10.30 A.M. to-day (Thursday) we reached 
 
70 A Month in the United States 
 
 Billings, where I now write. Billings is another 
 mushroom city in the United States of which geog- 
 raphers knew nothing until, I believe, about two years 
 ago ! It is already one of the principal towns of the 
 State of Montana (the capital town is Helena), 
 which State is reputed of enormous natural resources. 
 Again and again the thought is thrust upon me, in 
 view of all the wide unoccupied expanse of rich land, 
 why there should be such a crush and struggle for a 
 corner in a squalid town or on a bleak sterile hillside ? 
 I do not shut my eyes to the fact that love of place of 
 birth is an important factor, but it may have, after all, 
 an exaggerated importance given to it. 
 
 Friday, Sept. 7, 1883. 
 (Fifth Despatch. En route Livingstone to Helena) 
 'T^HE charm and interest of our excursion seem to 
 -*- vary and intensify from day to day. 
 
 Yesterday the leading incident in our proceedings 
 was perfectly unique. Never again probably will 
 such a sight be seen as we saw yesterday at Graycliff. 
 
 Graycliff is on the borders of the Crow Indians' res- 
 ervation, which comprises the enormous space of 200 
 square miles. It had been arranged with their chiefs, 
 who are, and have now for years been friendly with 
 the Whites, that a great assembly of their tribes 
 should take place in celebration of the opening of this 
 great trans-continental line. Such an assembly has not 
 
A Month in the United States 71 
 
 been seen since in their war paint they some years back 
 made their last stand for the land from which the 
 murderous and civilising White sought to expel them. 
 Their efforts were fruitless, and they fell back before 
 a civilisation which came to them heralded by blood- 
 shed and rapine. It is perhaps hardly to be wondered 
 at that under such circumstances they did not feel at- 
 tracted to the manners and customs of their con- 
 querors. 
 
 Since then they have been practically pensioners of 
 the United States Government which grants them this 
 large reserve and besides supplies them with food. 
 They do no regular work. The reserve is little better 
 than a poor-house from which they will assuredly be 
 expelled as soon as the necessity if not the con- 
 venience of the all-grasping white man requires it. 
 
 Fenimore Cooper has invested the American In- 
 dians with Spartan qualities and virtues and with a 
 simple dignity and grace peculiarly attractive. If his 
 descriptions were true and did not originate In his own 
 poetic mind, the Indians of to-day are greatly degen- 
 erate. On the whole, it is conceded that In this, as In 
 every conflict between the Interests of the aborigines 
 and the Invading Whites, the former have been un- 
 justly treated and have cruelly suffered, and It may 
 well be that contact and conflict with the subduing 
 Whites have lost them their best characteristics and 
 that they have acquired in exchange the worst quali- 
 ties of their conquerors. Certainly to-day reliable 
 
72 A Month in the United States 
 
 opinion does not strongly pronounce for them. Par- 
 ents love their children, but children do not equally 
 love their parents, and a son is not supposed to be un- 
 dutiful if he leaves his aged mother to die in the shelter 
 of a tree, and modestly supplied with water and the 
 sweet root of the camus. They degrade their women- 
 kind, whom they treat as fit only to be hewers of wood 
 and drawers of water. It used to be said that the In- 
 dian children suffered pain and showed it not. Well, 
 I can vouch for the fact that, when yesterday at Gray- 
 cliff a chubby Indian boy of about six years trod on 
 the prickly cactus, he bellowed with a vigour which — 
 well, any little boy of my acquaintance could not sur- 
 pass. 
 
 I find I have been moralising lengthily and prosily. 
 
 The tribes inhabiting the Crow reservation were 
 to exhibit to their quondam enemies the war dances 
 with which they had been wont to excite their war- 
 riors before battle against their spectators of to-day. 
 There was something to me peculiarly melancholy and 
 saddening In the exhibition — these men degrading 
 their rites and humbling their mighty chiefs (some of 
 them with the mark of the white man on his fore- 
 head) to make an American holiday. But here — I 
 am moralising again. 
 
 I wish some one with an eye to colours and detail 
 and withal some power of description had yesterday 
 been in my place. You, Madam, or you, Rosa, or 
 you, Clara, or you, Eily. 
 
A Month in the United States 73 
 
 As we approached Graycllff, we were struck by the 
 array of horses grazing on the plain, numbering sev- 
 eral thousand and certainly exceeding the number of 
 the tribe, which was computed at 2,500. Nearer still 
 to the town appeared many hundred tepee tents 
 presenting in shelter of the bluffs, which formed a 
 harmonious background for them, a striking and pe- 
 culiar picture. Close by, many of the old, very old 
 squaws, sat on their hunkers — weird, wrinkled, im- 
 passive, and, it may be added, filthy. Here and there 
 the little ones appeared, some of them really hand- 
 some, with faces as impassive almost as those of the 
 old crones. 
 
 Close by the town, but on the unbroken prairie, was 
 the focus point of attraction. The people of the dis- 
 trict for miles round had gathered in, dressed in their 
 best and showing off in their best teams. The Indians 
 had already formed themselves in a semicircle, some 
 standing, some sitting, some lying lazily and dreamily 
 on the ground, some on horseback, and all dressed in 
 their most fantastic dresses and painted in their most 
 fantastic colours. But this applies only to the men of 
 the tribe; the squaws, huddled together, looked 
 moodily on. The resources of the tribe in the matter 
 of adornment were exhausted on the chiefs, for the 
 women were dirty, squalid, and showed no sign of 
 even passing comeliness except in the case of two or 
 three of the very young girls amongst them. 
 
 But what is this horrible row ? It is the full choral 
 
74 A Month in the United States 
 
 strength of the Crow-foots in the air. The band sat 
 in a semicircle apart, beating drums, its members ap- 
 parently vieing with one another in the production of 
 the most discordant conglomeration of sounds I ever 
 listened to. It seemed to rouse the performers to ac- 
 tivity. The master of ceremonies — whose face was 
 cross-barred in yellow and black with a fantastic 
 headdress and a gorgeous tail made up principally of 
 peacocks' feathers and the management of which re- 
 quired a good deal of care — now stirred about 
 amongst the chiefs and selected the performers for 
 the opening dance. It requires a person with some 
 imagination like you, Rosa, to give a graceful descrip- 
 tion of what to my prosaic eye seemed ungraceful in 
 the extreme — striking, fantastic, unique but still un- 
 graceful. 
 
 A hideous dish of cooked dog's meat was placed in 
 the centre and round it the chiefs performed what 
 was described as a religious rite with excited gesticu- 
 lation and most uncouth utterance. Presently the 
 music became more discordant than ever, and now the 
 dancers gathered more energy of voice and limb, and 
 are supposed to be shadowing forth and inspiriting to 
 deeds of danger. This was the war dance. Later 
 there came love dances (still confined to men) whose 
 meaning one could not, without help, guess. I re- 
 moved to a distance on a slope, and shutting one's 
 ears to sound and sufiiciently far off not to observe 
 the disagreeableness of the Indians, the scene was as- 
 
A Month in the United States 75 
 
 suredly of a striking kind — the beauty of the place, 
 the glory of the setting sun, the bright colouring, the 
 fantastic movements and the commanding figures of 
 the Indians side by side with the men of the White 
 race — all combined to form a picture such as will 
 probably never again be seen. Here were the repre- 
 sentatives of an old dynasty which was almost dead, 
 and, close by, in the luxurious steam equipage (a com- 
 pendium of the material civilisation of nineteen cen- 
 turies) the successful invader, the ruthless, aggressive, 
 all-conquering white man. 
 
 These were some of the notions which crowded in 
 upon me while we rolled away from Graycliff, as the 
 sun went down. 
 
 Between Graycliff and Livingstone in the night we 
 lost some fine scenery. Dimly in the night I saw the 
 outline of the Crazy Range with its leading moun- 
 tain, called *'01d Baldy." 
 
 Livingstone, Friday, Sept. 7, 1883. 
 A "^7" HEN I looked out of my berth at 5 o'clock A.M. 
 this morning, close upon us was a noble range 
 of hills which reminded m.e forcibly of the Mourne 
 Mountains — the chief amongst these being Sugar-loaf, 
 shaped like Slieve Donard. It is this which is called 
 "Old Baldy." We are here at the gate of the won- 
 derful Yellowstone country in which the American 
 people are reserving as a national playground a 
 
76 A Month in the United States 
 
 space some 3,000 miles square at an altitude of some 
 7,000 or 8,000 feet above sea level, and filled with 
 wondrous natural points of interest. It is intended on 
 the return journey to spend two or three days specially 
 at this point; but as I go to San Francisco and home 
 by a line farther south this pleasure will not be open 
 to me. 
 
 In December, 1882, there were not fifty people in 
 Livingstone. To-day the population is 2,500 and 
 there are baths, banks, concert halls, and a skating 
 rinkl The electric light and the telephone are, of 
 course, here. 
 
 Before the morning dew had been dried up, we 
 started to make the ascent of the great spur which 
 prepares us for the still greater rise, a little further 
 on, of the great Rockies themselves. 
 
 So gradual has been our ascent that it is startling to 
 be reminded that at Livingstone we are 4,500 feet 
 above sea level. 
 
 This eccentric line represents very closely the pro- 
 file of the line of ascent we have to make. I need not 
 say that the principle of the inclined plane (explain, 
 Cyril, for May's benefit) is largely brought into 
 requisition; but that makes our progress all the more 
 interesting, for we wind round and round the moun- 
 tains and looking up their sides we see the made road- 
 way we have to traverse terraced high above our 
 heads. 
 
 As we go up a steep incline (about i in 30), our 
 
A Month in the United States 77 
 
 train parts in two; but the automatic brake instantly 
 stops the downward descent of the part left behind, 
 and the engine quietly and safely backs to recouple it. 
 
 Should a breakdown of a serious kind occur, they 
 have the instant means of communicating with any 
 part of the world for help. How ? You may well 
 ask, for we are often miles away from human dwell- 
 ing-places, and the only thing which seems to hold us 
 to the world of men is the single wire of the telegraph 
 which accompanies us even in our greatest solitude. 
 But of what avail is the telegraph, for it is miles be- 
 fore we can reach a telegraph station? Ingenuity, 
 however, has even overcome that difficulty. With 
 each train is an electric battery, and with each battery 
 a clerk able to operate, who by simply hooking on to 
 the single wire is literally in communication with all 
 the world. 
 
 At last we reach the city of Bozeman — verily a city 
 — 5,714 ft. above the level of the sea, and an old city, 
 too, as things go here, for it is upwards of ten years 
 old. Between this spur which we have surmounted 
 and the Rockies lies the valley of the Upper Mis- 
 souri, fertile in a high degree and singularly beauti- 
 ful in places. The Missouri, which you will recollect, 
 we met before more than once, is here nearer its 
 source — indeed it is the junction of the rivers Galla- 
 tin, Madison and Jefferson which here first take that 
 name — and it is as yet uncontaminated by contact with 
 the populous haunts of men. On either side of it the 
 
78 A Month in the United States 
 
 mountains rise, well clad even to their very tops, often 
 sheer up from the plain, whose richness of soil con- 
 trasts strongly with the sterile, rockbound character 
 of the hills. 
 
 It is notable that in the upper part of this valley, 
 between five and six thousand feet above the sea, the 
 crops are remarkable for their abundance and yield. 
 I had here (at Bozeman) a few words with 
 Pat Brady, who works on the N. P. R. Company. He 
 is from County Armagh (my own county^) and has 
 been in the United States ten years. He was well fed 
 and clad and content. He enquired with interest 
 about Ireland; but when I asked him whether he 
 would like to go back, he answered with a grin that 
 he would not mind, but he would require to be fur- 
 nished with a return ticket to the United States before 
 leaving them. 
 
 Our journey for the rest of the day was for the 
 greater part along the Missouri, and finally the four 
 sections or divisions of which the Excursion Party is 
 made halted at a place called Butler, a little way up 
 the great and final ascent of the Rockies. 
 
 This halt was a pleasant incident. It afforded 
 friends separated in the actual journey the pleasant 
 opportunity of intercourse. 
 
 'Ballybot is on the Armagh side of Newry 
 
A Month in the United States 79 
 
 Saturday, Sept. 8, 1883. 
 A T 5.30 we left Butler for the final ascent. The 
 -^^ morning is lovely. Everything looking its best — 
 though iiideed my American friends say spring is the 
 time to realise the full beauty of this region. The 
 scenery was what I understand by "Alpine" in its 
 character and the air sharp, cold, clear, and bracing 
 — had a peculiarly exhilarating effect. 
 
 In advance, often miles off, we could see the trestle 
 bridges over which we had to cross. Several of these 
 are above 60 feet high: they are all made of wood: 
 none of them are built on piles let into the ground; 
 and at a distance they present a very fragile, spidery 
 (is this adjective allowable?) appearance. Mr. 
 Bruce, C.E., and General Hutchinson, however, said 
 they were really very strong and showed very skilful 
 work. Up, up we go, slowly but surely, the very en- 
 gine seeming by its heavy pulsations to express its 
 sense of the difficulty before us. Some of us notice a 
 well-defined track which we cross and recross and 
 never get far away from at this particular place. 
 What is it, think you? Originally an Indian trail, it 
 was used for years and years by the agents of the 
 Hudson Bay Company, and formed part of a road 
 some 600 miles long or so from Port Benton on the 
 Missouri in the east to Walla-Walla (now a station 
 on the Northern Pacific Railway) in the west. What 
 a history is involved in the sight of these two road- 
 
8o A Month in the United States 
 
 ways side by side — so different in character, but whose 
 identity of track and direction evidenced the wise ob- 
 servation of our forefathers in times so much less ad- 
 vanced in science than these. 
 
 About two miles short of the summit several of us 
 elected to walk on in advance of the first section of our 
 train and we were well repaid. Walking the open 
 trestle bridges was not pleasant, though not at all 
 dangerous, so long as you keep a cool head; but 
 the sense of active motion, the fresh glow it 
 brought, the delightful view all round, and the an- 
 ticipation that in a few minutes we should have 
 reached "tip-top" and, turning our back on the east, 
 be looking for the first time down on the Pacific 
 slopes — all combined to give us a keen sense of enjoy- 
 ment. 
 
 Up we go, winding in and out of the mountains; 
 make a final bend; know we are then 5,813 feet above 
 ocean level and that the vast extent of land that opens 
 before us in valley and hill, in river and in forest, 
 leads us to the great Pacific! Here is the dividing 
 line in the watershed between east and west — which 
 determines what water shall lose itself in the im- 
 mensity of the Atlantic and what in the Pacific Seas. 
 Still, I may as well incidentally mention we are still 
 about a thousand miles from the most westerly point 
 of our journey, although we are about 1,200 miles 
 west of Lake Superior! Just recall, Frank, the dis- 
 tance from KInsale Head to the Giant's Causeway, 
 
A Month in the United States 8i 
 
 and it will perhaps help you to realise what these dis- 
 tances mean ! 
 
 We reached the summit about 8.30 A.M., and at 
 1 1. 1 5 we struck the river known as Clark's Fork, an 
 important tributary of the Columbia River, which, 
 however, only assumes its great proportions and im- 
 portance after it leaves the Lake Pend d'Oreille. 
 (See your maps; I will try and send one.) Clark de- 
 serves more than a passing word: it is after him that 
 the river is named. He and a man named Lewis at 
 the instance and expense of the United States Govern- 
 ment of the day, from May, 1804 to Septem- 
 ber, 1806 were engaged in exploring the approach 
 from the east to the Pacific by a northern route 
 which this very day reached its completion ! Their 
 story is full of interest, peril, and adventure. 
 
 After passing Garrison City, which is named after 
 President Villard's father-in-law, we reach the spot 
 (named at least for the day, "Spike Point") at which 
 the final spike is to be driven and the trains pass to 
 and fro for the first time on an unbroken continuous 
 line of railway communication from Lake Superior 
 in the east to Portland in the west. This point is 
 1,198 miles from Lake Superior and 847 from Puget 
 Sound. A large building had been erected for the 
 speakers and the more distinguished guests; and 
 round it, on the untilled ground, which has never yet 
 yielded to human labour, there were gathered to- 
 gether a motley but most interesting assemblage. 
 
82 A Month in the United States 
 
 For miles round the settlers, farmers, traders, In- 
 dians, Governor, and other local authorities had come 
 to assist at the completion of a great work which 
 brought their country for the first time within civilised 
 limits. All manner of equipage had been brought 
 into requisition from the buggy and team which 
 would not have disgraced Central Park, to the homely 
 farming wagon filled with the settler's family group. 
 There were inequalities of style, dress, and equipage 
 amongst them, but there was no underfed or badly- 
 clad man or woman to be seen in all the thousands. 
 The order preserved was really remarkable — no 
 crushing, hustling, or unseemly noises. Each one 
 seemed to think that in some sort it concerned him 
 that the proceedings should be seemly and in order. 
 
 I will not stop to describe the actual work of com- 
 pletion. In almost shorter time than I take to write 
 it, a certain number of lengths of sleepers and rails 
 were laid and spiked until the final spike alone re- 
 mained to be driven. This done by President Villard, 
 to whose energy and ability so much of the final suc- 
 cess is by all attributed — guns were fired and huzzas 
 sent up to celebrate the consummation. During all 
 the preliminary proceedings I was most interested in 
 Madam Villard (to whom I was to-day presented 
 by my friend Dr. Borchardt of Manchester). She 
 is the daughter of Mr. Garrison, who fought and suf- 
 fered years back for the cause of the Negro. She is 
 about forty years of age, pleasant of face, and neat 
 
A Month in the United States 83 
 
 and graceful of figure. She is chatty and wholly un- 
 affected. To-day when she was not engaged in inter- 
 esting her guests her face wore an anxious expression, 
 and I am sure that no one was more relieved than she 
 when the complete success of the proceedings was 
 fully assured. 
 
 But I have to do also with the speakers. There 
 were famous men to speak, and I was anxious to have 
 the benefit of a rare opportunity of listening to some 
 American orators whose reputations stand very high. 
 
 President Villard read a very excellent speech, 
 sound in sense and good in tone and taste, the effect of 
 which would have been greatly increased could it 
 have been spoken and not merely read. Then fol- 
 lowed the man whom all the other American speak- 
 ers concurred in calling (and they ought to know) 
 the "great orator" of the day — I mean my friend, as 
 I am glad to be able to call him, W. M. Evarts, Bar- 
 rister. I made his acquaintance in London, now a 
 good many years since, through the introduction of 
 my distinguished and learned friend, Mr. J. P. Ben- 
 jamin. Mr. Evarts Is certainly a remarkable man. 
 He is above sixty years of age, but his manner Is vi- 
 vacious and his tongue as ready as it was twenty years 
 since — so say his friends and admirers. His head and 
 face are striking and present a highly intellectual type 
 of what we are In the habit of calling the Yankee. 
 His effort was clearly to be the effort of the day. To 
 him was assigned the part of historian and apologist 
 
84 A Month in the United States 
 
 of the Northern Pacific Line, and this was hardly a 
 subject best fitted to illustrate his undoubtedly great 
 powers of speech. But more. These are days in 
 which you spealc not so much to the audience facing 
 you, as to that greater audience — if one may so call 
 them — who are addressed through their morning 
 paper. It was (as Mr. Evarts told me) a regrettable 
 necessity that his speech was in print before he left 
 New York, for otherwise it could not appear (as it 
 did) /';/ extenso the morning after its delivery in some 
 500 newspapers throughout the land. This circum- 
 stance certainly detracted from its effect. The effort 
 to remember what had been written, and the frequent 
 reference to the printed proof took away from the 
 powerful oration that character of spontaneity which 
 is one of the greatest charms of human utterance. 
 Towards the end there were one or two passages of 
 great dignity and power which suggested, if they did 
 not quite realize, the grounds on which Mr. Evart's 
 great reputation is based. His friends said it was 
 not one of his happiest efforts, and they added that 
 at this period of his history he is at his best when he 
 is called upon for an impromptu speech and upon an 
 occasion when he can give the reins to a pleasant wit 
 and a caustic tongue. As a companion, I know no 
 more agreeable man. Kindly, humorous, cheerful, 
 and full of anecdote, personal and historical, spiced 
 occasionally with just enough sarcasm to sharpen the 
 palate — I know no one with whom I would rather 
 
A Month in the United States 85 
 
 travel on a long railway journey in an interesting 
 country. 
 
 I'o him succeeded Mr. Teller, Secretary of the In- 
 terior under President Arthur. His effort was not a 
 success. Good, earnest man, I doubt not, but he has 
 studied in a school of oratory which savours more of 
 the religious conventicle than of the legislative forum. 
 To him succeeded Mr. Billings, whose speech was 
 on the whole the greatest success of the day. Mr. 
 Billings was formerly a lawyer practising in San Fran- 
 cisco. He afterwards took to commerce and was for- 
 merly President of the Northern Pacific Railway 
 Company. His figure and face do not readily lend 
 themselves to oratory; but, when he is fairly under 
 way, you cease to criticise or to notice personal ap- 
 pearance. His language is forcible and copious, his 
 manner impressive, and although one would be in- 
 clined to say there was exaggeration in his style, his 
 earnestness impressed his auditors, and they were in- 
 deed fairly aroused, and for the first time in the pro- 
 ceedings, to enthusiasm. 
 
 To him succeeded Sir James Hannen as the first of 
 the speakers representing the guests. He spoke for 
 the English guests. Sir James Hannen is hot an ora- 
 tor according to American ideas of oratory. There 
 are no sonorous, high-swelling sentences, no studied 
 risings or fallings of the voice, but there is exceed- 
 ingly good taste, an appropriateness of language and 
 a dignity of manner which together produce a most 
 
86 A Month in the United States 
 
 favourable and agreeable Impression. It is, I think, 
 to the credit of the good taste of our American friends 
 that many of them considered Sir James Hannen's 
 the best speech of the day. 
 
 Herr Gneist and Dr. Hoffman from Germany fol- 
 lowed — the former a distinguished member of the 
 German Parliament, and the latter a celebrated pro- 
 fessor of chemistry. There was nothing to note in 
 the speech of either — save that Dr. Hoffman in very 
 bad taste indulged in sneers at the supposed miracles 
 of the early and middle ages and said that this was 
 the true age of miracles according to and not against 
 the order of nature — such miracles, in fine, as the 
 completion of the Great Northern Pacific Railway. 
 
 Then followed speeches from the Governors of the 
 several States and Territories through which the line 
 of railway runs. At this stage I began to tire of 
 American oratory at best. We had in these speeches 
 some of the worst characteristics, and none of the 
 best, of American oratory. They were turgid, ex- 
 travagant in language and sometimes in gesture, and 
 seemed principally directed to claiming for their re- 
 spective States the right to the title of Garden of 
 Eden. One of them, however, reached the climax — 
 the man from Washington Territory — when he told 
 us that all the trees there were 250 feet high and at 
 least five feet in circumference, and that his territory 
 was the real centre of the United States. 
 
 At last a tiresome but very interesting day Is 
 
A Month in the United States 87 
 
 ended; and, as we walk back to our cars some way 
 from our focus point, there are returning, on this side 
 of Clark's Fork and on that, the happy settlers, 
 peaceably but merrily, and rejoicing that they have 
 assisted at a great national work — Important to the 
 Nation, but specially Important lo them who for seed- 
 time and for harvest-time, for themselves and for 
 their children, have cast their lot In the Far West. 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 9, 1883. 
 A FTER the successful ceremonial of yesterday we 
 -^^^ continued our way during the night and through 
 the State of Montana and Idaho westwards. 
 
 Two things have most struck me since we crossed 
 the Great Divide. Up to that point we had seen no 
 timber of any great magnitude; and for miles and 
 miles through Minnesota, Dakota, and even Mon- 
 tana In Its eastern part we had sped without seeing 
 any forest. Indeed the only trees visible were com- 
 monly along the rivers' banks or in their Immediate 
 neighbourhood and accurately indicating their course. 
 Now, with the exception of a few places, forests are 
 to be seen in all directions — dense, interminable as 
 far as eye can reach. These forests are stately, too, 
 and I do feel at last that I see them as they are, 
 primeval. Although still at a considerable height, 
 the plantations frequently run right up to the very 
 hill-tops and against the evening sky they look at 
 
88 A Month in the United States 
 
 times exceedingly picturesque standing like sentinels 
 on guard. 
 
 Another thing. Since we crossed the Great Di- 
 vide the atmosphere has not been nearly so clear as it 
 was east. There is frequently a mugginess about it 
 that reminded me of Liverpool and Manchester. It 
 is said that this is caused by the great forest fires, and 
 from what I have since seen I can quite believe it. 
 These fires are generally intentionally begun, but get 
 beyond control. Thus the railway for their line clear- 
 ance, a settler for his land clearance, and so on, will 
 set a forest alight, and, this done, it is not in the power 
 of the incendiary to stop or to control it, should a 
 period of drought and a high wind prevail. We have 
 through miles of forest seen here and there the living 
 fire busily engaged in its work, destroying the noblest 
 trees and sending up volumes of thick smoke to hide 
 and disfigure the landscape and permanently affect 
 the atmosphere. The trees are certainly very fine, 
 generally pine and occasionally noble cedars, and they 
 scent the air delicately and pleasantly whether alight 
 or not. 
 
 One other thing I have seen on the Pacific side 
 — a clear, pebbly-beached river — Clark's Fork — by- 
 and-by to merge in the noble Columbia River. 
 
 Through a rich country we passed rapidly during 
 the night, and the Sunday forenoon — past Missoula, 
 Hell's Gate (which name gave rise to a number of 
 jokes of a more or less sulphurous character) . On 
 
A Month in the United States 89 
 
 and on until we came in the afternoon to Lake Pend 
 d'Oreille — so called, it is said, because of the district 
 being inhabited by Indians whose peculiarity was their 
 earrings. This does not seem a very satisfactory ex- 
 planation of the French name. 
 
 It is a beautiful lake. Some of our party went in 
 the Steamer Henry Villard — others, including my- 
 self, preferred remaining ashore to "look up" a 
 Chinese settlement close by. Until we crossed the 
 Divide the Chinese in no way attracted our attention; 
 but since that crossing they are to be seen and in num- 
 bers at every stage of our journey. 
 
 Oscar Wilde, I am told, has come to the conclusion 
 (since American society has looked on him coldly) 
 that the Chinese are the only people in America who 
 present any fit subject for intelligent study. David 
 A. Wells (the celebrated leader of the Free Trade 
 Party in the States) thinks the future of the Chinese 
 nation the most im.portant factor in the future of the 
 world. Putting the population of China at from 350 
 to 400 millions, and bearing in mind that there is not, 
 it is supposed, a single steam loom in the country or 
 indeed any of the great recent contrivances for the 
 economy of human labour — what, he asks, will be 
 the effect upon the world when this great mass of in- 
 dustrious humanity works with all best appliances 
 which human science and ingenuity can contrive? It 
 is an interesting problem. Meanwhile they are be- 
 coming an important element in American economy. 
 
90 A Month in the United States 
 
 In politics they are nil: in the labour market almost 
 throughout the States their influence tells. It is cer- 
 tain they are industrious, frugal, temperate, and on 
 the whole cleanly in their personal habits. Their 
 great offence in the eyes of labour is that they are 
 willing to work for what is considered poor pay — 
 or, in other words, for less than the white man will. 
 It is in the rudest labour principally that they now 
 compete, and, it follows, principally compete with 
 Irishmen. With the latter consequently they are very 
 unpopular, and in some places where the Irish voice is 
 strong, as in San Francisco, the press, or portions of 
 it, urge legislative interference against the Chinese. 
 It is charged against them that they have introduced 
 virulent diseases previously unknown along the west- 
 ern coast; but the evidence of this, as I have heard the 
 case put, is not convincing. One is reminded of the 
 charges rashly made at times in England against the 
 Irish labouring class and from similar motives. 
 
 Meanwhile it seems to be doubted whether to the 
 employer there is any real economy in Chinese labour. 
 General Haupt, of the Northern Pacific Railway 
 Company, says there is not, and I have heard his view 
 elsewhere confirmed. Anyhow they have built a great 
 part of the Northern Pacific from the Divide to the 
 Pacific. As we sped along, we came upon their en- 
 campments again and again in forest glades, by the 
 shores of the rivers and lakes, on the outskirts of the 
 cities — always a community apart. It is to be said 
 
A Month in the United States 91 
 
 to their credit that they insist, when they can, on being 
 located near water for purposes of personal cleanli- 
 ness. I am glad to see that Ward Beecher during a 
 recent visit to San Francisco has had the courage to 
 speak out for the Chinese against a prejudice which, 
 although unreasoning, bids fair to be dangerous. 
 
 In the larger towns the Chinese engage in town in- 
 dustries, of which the favourite one with them ap- 
 pears to be that of laundry-men. 
 
 Mr. Wells is a remarkable and an interesting man. 
 He is, as I said before. President of the American 
 Free Trade League, and has through good report and 
 evil report kept flying the Free Trade banner. He is 
 beginning to influence his country, but the fact is the 
 States are so prosperous, wages are so high, trade on 
 the whole so good, capital accumulating so fast that 
 men do not feel called upon to stop and enquire 
 whether there is not a change which might properly 
 be made which would quicken even that great pros- 
 perity. Mr. Wells is a regular storehouse of learning 
 upon this question, and he found me so willing to 
 learn from his lips that he has promised me a full 
 copy of his Free Trade publications. 
 
 As far as I can gather, except in Pennsylvania, 
 whose Iron Trade would be injuriously and quickly 
 affected, there is in the United States great lethargy, 
 and for the reasons I have given. I was, with Mr. 
 Wells' assistance, figuring out roughly the extra cost 
 to the Northern Pacific Railway alone over this one 
 
92 A Month in the United States 
 
 line from the existence of this Protection policy. It 
 would represent a good dividend to his stockholders ! 
 Mr. Evarts in a speech he made later on (on Tues- 
 day, in fact) said the Germans understood but could 
 not explain the Americans and that the English ex- 
 plained them, but did not understand them. I wish I 
 had had to follow him, instead of speaking as I did 
 before him, for I would certainly have tried to make 
 a point about the high class patriotism which recon- 
 ciles the American to paying high prices for what 
 other countries could give them cheaper and better. 
 After all. Providence meant to give to every country 
 a specialty or specialties for its fellows, and what can- 
 not be got best and cheapest in one country ought to 
 be got elsewhere. Thus is a tie of interest woven 
 all the world over. But this smacks rather of the 
 "Dismal Science." Finally, on Sunday night we ar- 
 rived at Ainsworth, which is on the northern bank of 
 the Snake River — tired, dusty, and perspiring, for 
 the day was oppressive, though the pine forests 
 through which we passed did something here and 
 there to temper the heat. 
 
 Ainsworth, Monday, Sept. io, 1883. 
 A GLORIOUS morning! Our train was drawn up 
 ■^^^ close to the shining bright river, and a barge 
 made fast near us was a good apology for a bath- 
 house. In we went helter-skelter to the number of 
 
A Month in the United States 93 
 
 twenty or so and back again to our dining cars, and 
 soon our toilets completed and our appetites in better 
 tune for breakfast, which all the care of our host 
 could not prevent being somewhat monotonous. The 
 line of railway is incomplete at this point. The bridge 
 across the River Snake has not got beyond the build- 
 ing of the buttresses. In consequence we had to be 
 ferried over, and, as only about two cars at a time 
 could be taken, the transportation of the four trains 
 occupied nearly the whole day. As we were in the 
 second section, we started rather early, i.e., about two 
 o'clock — not early enough, however, to prevent the 
 falling night shutting out from us a perfect view of 
 very fine scenery. 
 
 From about Lake Pend d'Oreille we had ceased to 
 be in the State of Idaho, and thence until we crossed 
 the Snake we had been in Washington Territory (not 
 yet admitted to the sisterhood of the States) ; but, 
 having crossed the river, we were and continued to 
 be, until we reached Portland, in the large and Pacific- 
 bound State of Oregon. 
 
 Our course for many miles pursued pretty closely 
 the river; and again and again perfectly lovely 
 reaches of the river appeared — perfect as to colour- 
 ing, volume of water, adjacent hills, trees, and the 
 rest. I will not stop to try to describe any one in par- 
 ticular. 
 
 Near a place called the Dalles there was a mag- 
 nificent show of basaltic rock towering frowningly 
 
94 A Month hi the United States 
 
 high over our heads. There was, I assume, no real 
 danger; but looking up from our cars we saw huge, 
 beetling masses of rock rising, it was computed, in 
 places to a height exceeding lOO feet and certainly 
 looking as if falling it must fall upon us of necessity 
 and crush us. I was not sorry when we passed it; for 
 there was some danger, though not of the kind to 
 which I have adverted, namely, the danger of small 
 portions of the rock falling and being tumbled on to 
 the line. We went slowly for caution's sake. 
 
 One beautiful scene we did see. It was where the 
 river had widened out, and on either side was the 
 wide-spreading sandy beach which tells what the 
 Snake is in its winter fury. The warm, rich glow of 
 the declining sun rested on everything — on the water, 
 on the hills, on the sandy prairie, on the beach, but 
 most of all, as it seemed, upon an encampment of the 
 Flathead Indians which a bend in our road brought 
 us suddenly upon. There they were as they have been 
 since they were: no apparent tittle of change. The 
 tepee tents, the squaws sitting about, the men lying 
 lazily and dreamily impassive, the little ones playing, 
 but playing noiselessly (our train was practically at 
 a standstill) and the ponies grazing close by, except 
 three or four, which, mounted by the chiefs, were 
 wending their way by the riverside homeward — if 
 the Indian has any home. To look at the picture was 
 indeed beautiful, but I am sure if any artist could re- 
 produce the richness of colouring it would look to the 
 
A Month in the United States 95 
 
 eyes of the Old World, at least to European eyes, as 
 exaggerated and untrue to Nature. 
 
 Late in the morning of Tuesday we reached Port- 
 land. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. ii, 1883. 
 r T ERE again we had to cross the river (here called 
 ■^ -'- the Willamette), but this time only the passen- 
 gers and baggage. We were billetted all over the 
 town — the arrangements certainly being as perfect as 
 such arrangements applying to such a number can 
 possibly be made. We elected to be billetted on 
 board the R. R. Thompson, a river steamship, the 
 property of another of Mr. Villard's successful com- 
 panies called the Oregon Railway and Steam Naviga- 
 tion (?) Company, and here we were exceedingly 
 comfortable during our short stay. 
 
 I will not describe Portland. It is (since we left 
 St. Paul and Minneapolis) the most considerable 
 town on our route by far. It is picturesquely situated 
 on the side of a hill originally closely pine-clad and 
 sloping down to the banks of the Willamette, which 
 is navigable a good many miles higher. The trade of 
 the place is considerable, and for a young city they 
 have started and carry on in it a good many manu- 
 factures. 
 
 A great reception the town gave — gay in banners 
 with hospitable legends upon them, gay in triumphal 
 arches, gay in flowers, and perhaps above all, gay in 
 
g6 A Month in the United States 
 
 the bright looks and hoHday dresses of its people. A 
 great procession took place from the landing stage 
 to the large pavilion or public room of the town — a 
 procession intended to represent the early history and 
 the present state of the city headed by the early pio- 
 neers or their descendants and concluding with exhibits 
 of the now various trades and manufactures of its 
 people. 
 
 I arrived at the pavilion late and found that some 
 of the English guests were expected to speak and that 
 Horace Davey was asked to do so. He was anxious 
 that I should take his place, and I, while by no means 
 eager to deprive him of the honour, was unwilling to 
 seem to decline a responsibility which my seniority as 
 a silkgown seemed to put upon me. Eventually we 
 both spoke. 
 
 Mr. George, Senator for the State of Oregon, de- 
 livered to Mr. Villard the congratulatory address. 
 Mr. George was what the Americans call "the orator 
 of the day." He is a young, good-looking man of 
 colossal height and brown hair. He is not so gross 
 and fat as Gambetta was, but he nevertheless re- 
 minded me of the dead Frenchman. But not in his 
 oratory. He read a carefully prepared essay, sensi- 
 ble and clever enough, but he endeavoured by vio- 
 lence of gesture and stress of voice to give it the effect 
 of spoken speech, and failed therein. Mr. Villard in 
 response, speaking apparently impromptu, spoke 
 sensibly and well. 
 
CARL SCHURZ 
 
A Month in the United States 97 
 
 He then called upon me. My friends said I did 
 very well ; but they were friends. For my own part 
 I felt when I had sat down that I had several things 
 to say worth listening to, and I could not recollect 
 anything I had uttered of which this could truly be 
 said. Two men spoke later whom I was for different 
 reasons glad to hear. One Mr. Carl Schurz because 
 I had never heard him before, and the other Evarts, 
 because, having heard him on this occasion, I was 
 able to understand how he had acquired the high rep- 
 utation he possessed. 
 
 Carl Schurz was Minister of the Interior under a 
 former government and was remarkable for his wise 
 and conciliatory policy towards the Indians, in whose 
 regard he had established schools for the education of 
 their young. He said (on Tuesday) amongst many 
 other wise and statesmanlike things that public men 
 now saw that it was not only wiser and more gener- 
 ous but cheaper to conciliate and to educate than to 
 fight and trample upon the Indians. He is a German, 
 but he speaks English more correctly than any for- 
 eigner I have ever heard, and more correctly than 
 any American speaker, according at least to our Eng- 
 lish ideas. 
 
 Evarts, of Tuesday, was not the Evarts who heav- 
 ily delivered a heavy oration at Spike Point on last 
 Saturday. That Evarts was prosy, indulging in long 
 and complicated sentences difficult tx) parse, labouring 
 to be impressive and I fear ending only in being dull : 
 
98 A Month in the United States 
 
 this Evarts spoke as If he had no weight on his mind: 
 his sentences were terse and pointed. He was at will 
 humorous or satirical, and once or twice by im- 
 promptu hints carried his audience entirely with him. 
 I was delighted with his speech, and greatly pleased 
 that I had not to leave America with my first impres- 
 sions of his powers unremoved. 
 
 Generally those I have heard here show very con- 
 siderable speech-ability. The audiences, too, seem to 
 enjoy the oratory. It is in voice and gesture more 
 vigourous than in England is usual; and certainly 
 there is a boldness (not to say exaggeration) of 
 metaphor which we should think overstrained if 
 not grotesque, but which here finds pleased ac- 
 ceptance. 
 
 In the evening was a grand concert followed by a 
 reception and in full dress ! We donned our best, 
 and as in duty bound paid our respects to Mr. Villard. 
 We left early, for to-morrow (Wednesday) we de- 
 tach ourselves from the main body of the party and 
 go in advance at 5 A.M. via Kalama, Tacoma, Puget 
 Sound, Seattle, and across the Straits of Juan de Fuca 
 to Victoria in Vancouver Island — where we again 
 touch Great British Dominion. 
 
 The assembly was sufficiently brilliant and distin- 
 guished. Of the music I cannot speak highly, but in 
 such matters it is not fair to be critical in a new city of 
 a new country. One is astonished not at what is not 
 but at what is. 
 
A Month in the United States 99 
 
 As Dr. Gnelst said to me on Tuesday, they still 
 have a good deal to learn from the Old World, 
 though they do not know it nor how much they al- 
 ready owe it. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. 12, 1883. 
 O TARTING at 5 A.M. by the good S. S. Dixie Thomp- 
 *^ son we proceed to Kalama, sailing down the Wil- 
 lamette and barely touching the Columbia, on the 
 whole the noblest river I have yet seen here. I am 
 told that further south the Mississippi and Missouri 
 will open my eyes. 
 
 We ought to have breakfasted on board, but two 
 hungry hordes of passengers descended with such 
 swiftness and determination upon the breakfast that 
 there was nothing for us. At Kalama at 12 o'clock 
 we made a modest meal and pursued our journey by 
 train to Tacoma, the city of the most southerly part 
 of Puget Sound. 
 
 There is nothing in the country between Kalama 
 and Tacoma to call for special mention. The coun- 
 try is low-lying and in parts very swampy. The for- 
 ests are dense and the timber of very large size, while 
 the luxuriance of vegetation shows that the yearly 
 rainfall must be very considerable. One resident 
 said with a grin : "No man that ain't web-footed need 
 come here." Again and again along the route we 
 were struck with the devastation the forest fires have 
 wrought. For miles here and there, the noblest trees 
 
lOO A Month in the United States 
 
 literally in thousands upon thousands burnt to char- 
 coal, and whole acres of underwood and its accom- 
 panying vegetation burnt to the ground. I am begin- 
 ning to realise (what must be accepted as an un- 
 doubted fact) that the smoke from these fires for 
 weeks and for months troubles the air and obscures 
 the landscape. 
 
 We had a special grudge against the fires to-day. 
 Some sixty miles from Tacoma, but well in view from 
 its neighbourhood, is the mighty perpetually snow-clad 
 mountain Rainier, some 14,440 feet high. It is also 
 sometimes called Mount Tacoma. 
 
 I must break off here, suddenly and unexpectedly. 
 We have got so far as Tacoma on our way back to 
 Portland to-day (Saturday), intending to sail by the 
 S. S. Columbia from Portland this evening for San 
 Francisco. 
 
 Here, however, we are overtaken by the Queen of 
 the Pacific bound for San Francisco — a splendid ves- 
 sel with lots of room; and, as we are kindly offered 
 the option of going by her, we gladly accept it. I 
 have a magnificent stateroom — so large that even on 
 land it would hardly seem mean. It is luxuriously fur- 
 nished. Furthermore this change saves a journey 
 back to Portland of about 200 miles or so, and se- 
 cures for us what I was anxious for, namely, the sail 
 down and not merely across the Juan de Fuca Straits. 
 I write on Saturday, Sept. 15, 1883, at Tacoma on 
 board the S. S. Queen of the South ( ? Pacific) . 
 
A Month in the United States loi 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. 12, 1883 {cont'd). 
 T BROKE off as we approached Tacoma. Rainier, 
 -■" eagerly loolced for by many in our train, declined 
 to show himself. I was amused at the personal in- 
 terest taken in him by the Tacomians and the eager- 
 ness they showed that we should get a satisfactory 
 view. Later, when I saw the mountain myself, I 
 ceased to be surprised. 
 
 We had a few hours to spare at Tacoma, and 
 walked through the old and new towns — that is, 
 through the town a few years and the town a few 
 months old. The situation is very fine. Beginning 
 at the base of a bold bluff originally clothed in pine, 
 the towns rise up the slopes to the plateau above ; and 
 still further back hills rise again forming a beautiful 
 background. This is the beginning of Puget Sound, 
 remarkable for its astounding water depths. It is a 
 novel complaint, but it is literally the complaint here 
 at Tacoma, that there is too much water — so much 
 indeed as to interfere with anchorage facilities. One 
 hundred yards from the shore there are 100 fathoms 
 or more of depth ! 
 
 From this point past Juan de Fuca Straits to 
 George's Bay is here sometimes called the Mediter- 
 ranean of the West. It is certainly very beautiful. 
 Hence to Victoria we do not lose sight (save in a 
 fog) of land, and wherever we sight it we see 
 bluffs of greater or less height, but all densely 
 
102 A Month in the United States 
 
 covered with noble pine forests from top to water's 
 edge. 
 
 The principal trade of Tacoma, as also of Seattle, 
 Port Madison, Port Ludlow, Port Gamble, and Port 
 Townsend, where our steamer touches, Is the lumber 
 trade. In each of these places there is one or more 
 saw-mills busily engaged in the trade. At Tacoma 
 there Is also a coal trade. The Union Pacific Rail- 
 way Company find It suits their purpose to buy a 
 coal mine in this neighbourhood, make a railroad and 
 expensive coal chute in connection with it, and keep 
 a fleet of ships trading to and from San Francisco for 
 the supply of their engines ! The mine is at Car- 
 bonado. We sailed at night In the S. S. North Fa- 
 cile, and so saw little of the Sound on our out voyage, 
 until close to the Island of San Juan we sighted the 
 noble range of mountains to the west called Olympian 
 in Washington Territory. The sovereignty of this 
 Island (San Juan) was, you will recollect, some years 
 ago In dispute between England and America, but by 
 the arbitrament of the Emperor of Germany was 
 awarded to America. The question seems to have 
 turned upon the point whether the Island was upon 
 the American or upon the Vancouver Island side of 
 the main channel. 
 
 Speedily, about 12 o'clock Thursday morning, we 
 sight Vancouver Island. 
 
A Month in the United States 103 
 
 Victoria, Vancouver Island, Thursday, 
 
 Sept. 13, 1883. 
 '' I ^HE Island is pleasant but not of striking aspect, 
 -*• as we near the narrow, very narrow, approach 
 to the harbour of Victoria. The coast is rockbound, 
 like a great part of the Irish and Scotch coasts; and 
 inland it seems diversified by hill and valley without 
 any considerable amount of agricultural land in any 
 one district. It seems, too, generally well and heav- 
 ily timbered, and has valuable and extensive coal 
 mines. The climate during our short stay was de- 
 licious. It v/as an English autumn fine day with a 
 clear sky and a bright sun, pleasantly warm and yet 
 with a dash of winter in the air. The inhabitants say 
 it is fine weather eight months in the year. 
 
 Victoria has certainly not the go-ahead look of the 
 new American towns. Comparatively, things Avere 
 staid and dull, though there were signs of solid busi- 
 ness in the place. Sites for building certainly run 
 higli. My barber, who charged me half a dollar, 
 equal to 2s. English money, told me he paid $2 
 per foot per month frontage for a frontage of 
 twenty-five feet and that he then had to build his 
 house, covenanting to leave it at the end of his term 
 on the land. This would be a ground rent of £120 
 a year. 
 
 Accompanied by one of the Hudson Bay Com- 
 pany's officials (Mr. Munro) we had a very pleasant 
 
I04 A Month in the United States 
 
 drive from Victoria, past Esquimalt (pronounce 
 Squimalt) towards Coldstream. 
 
 Squimalt is a small, very small town, but the har- 
 bour is greatly superior to Victoria. Indeed if there 
 is ever any considerable town at this end of the island, 
 it must, I think, be at Squimalt and not at Victoria. A 
 good many people with whom I have talked agreed in 
 this and think a mistake has been made by the Cana- 
 dian Pacific Company, who propose Port Moody on 
 the Georgian Bay as the terminus of their trans-con- 
 tinental line. It is argued that they ought to have 
 gone further north (where it is said the climate is at 
 least as temperate) and crossing the narrows between 
 the mainland and Vancouver's Island continue their 
 railway system right down to Squimalt Bay. This 
 would give to the Canadian Pacific Company that im- 
 portant desideratum, a good port closer to the Pacific 
 than any United States line in the Northwest can 
 boast of. It is also further objected that Port 
 Moody is not itself a good harbour and that the ap- 
 proaches to it are difficult of navigation. Besides all 
 this it is agreed it would have enabled the Canadian 
 line to tap a fertile district of Canada further north. 
 
 The formation of a railroad is now in. contempla- 
 tion from Navarino in the north of the Island to a 
 point somewhere close to Victoria. 
 
 There is good coal in the north, and there is some 
 gold, but nothing of any moment. 
 
 The British ship Swiftsure (man-of-war) lay in 
 
A Month in the United States 105 
 
 Squimalt, and I regret to say in the course of our 
 drive we saw more drunken men, all from this ship, 
 than I have so far seen in all my trip in the United 
 States. 
 
 Friday, Sept. 14, 1883. 
 {En route back from Victoria to Tacoma.) 
 T^/e slept on board our good ship The North 
 * ' Pacific and 5.15 A.M. found us well under way. 
 A couple of buckets of salt water soon thoroughly 
 roused us to the signal beauty of the morning and the 
 scene. By the way, the water in the Straits and in 
 Puget Sound is very cold — so cold indeed that except 
 in the very height of summer it is very little used for 
 bathing and then only by venturous hot-blooded 
 youth. The people call it "snow-water," and at first 
 I found it difficult to understand that this was any- 
 thing more than a quaint conceit or popular exaggera- 
 tion. But to-day I saw there were (as there gener- 
 ally are for all popular beliefs) solid grounds for this 
 view. On the one side of the Sound to the west as 
 we sail for Seattle and Tacoma is the great range 
 known as the Olympian. It is the westerly and north- 
 erly boundary of Washington Territory; and, al- 
 though not to be compared with other mountains of 
 greater height, it covers a large extent of country. 
 
 On the east is another range of mountains, and 
 close to the American and Canadian dividing line is 
 Mount Baker, the noblest mountain I ever saw, ex- 
 
io6 A Month in the United States 
 
 cept Rainier, otherwise called Tacoma. I did not see 
 Mount Baker till Saturday evening, but I saw Rainier 
 on the Friday evening. The day was much brighter, 
 and the atmosphere much clearer as we approached 
 Seattle on our return. I had my glasses and was sud- 
 denly attracted by what seemed a bright cloud resting 
 on a darker one close to the horizon line. It had, 
 however, a fixity about it that puzzled me, when a 
 voice at my elbow said: "Well, Sir, and what do you 
 think of our little hill? I guess it's as big as some 
 mountains in your country." This, then, was Rainier. 
 As I look upon it, I confess to myself it Is the grand- 
 est creation I ever saw. It Is 14,440 feet above ocean 
 level. The lower part about two-thirds up is pine- 
 clad (I had mistaken it for a darker coloured cloud) , 
 but the remaining one-third Is cov^ered (as I look upon 
 it, as it is perpetually) with snow. We were very 
 lucky to see it, for it Is often months that Royal 
 Rainier hides himself. 
 
 As we approach Seattle (still on our way back 
 to Tacoma) all things warn us that Seattle is 
 en fete. 
 
 The steamboats and the sailing boats, big and lit- 
 tle, all sport their available bunting; and, as we come 
 close to the landing wharf, we see triumphal arches 
 prepared for the great Vlllard, who following us 
 from Victoria, is presently to arrive. Here we w^re 
 obliged to change boats; and, having left the party 
 at Portland, we judged it best to keep to ourselves. 
 
Copyrigiit, ^W.^. by 11. C. White d.., N. Y. 
 
 MT. RAINIER AND REFLECTION LAKE, 
 RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 
 
A Month in the United States 107 
 
 But It was fated that we should rejoin it at Tacoma, 
 and under circumstances to us particularly agreeable. 
 
 We went up the hill on which Seattle is built, and 
 from that vantage ground witnessed the procession of 
 vessels which went down the Strait to do honour to 
 Villard. It was in every way a pleasant sight, pic- 
 turesque to the eye and suggestive, too. I won't de- 
 scribe Seattle beyond saying it Is bigger and more ad- 
 vanced than Tacoma. 
 
 Between Seattle, Tacoma, and Port Townsend (a 
 smaller place than either, situate nearer the Fuca 
 Straits and on the west of Puget Sound) rivalry now 
 exists. Each place asserts itself as the only place 
 where the N. P. Railway Company can find a proper 
 and commodious outlet to the Pacific seas. 
 
 By the time we sailed for Tacoma, the day was de- 
 clining, and the Illumination of Seattle was at its best, 
 as we rounded the point close by, which shut out our 
 view. It was a lovely night, and I must say I never 
 had so perfect a view of any illumination, and I never 
 saw any which to my eye looked half as well. Built 
 on the side of a hill, the town rose terrace above ter- 
 race, and from the Queen of the Pacific (the steam- 
 ship which carried the excursion party) to the public- 
 school — a fine building which crowns the city — all 
 was ablaze. 
 
 At Tacoma, which we reached about 1 1 o'clock 
 (passed on our way by the speedier Queen of the 
 South) ^ we experienced what appeared to be a stroke 
 
io8 A Month in the United States 
 
 of ill luck. The only hotel would not have us : it was 
 full. If it had not been full, we should both have 
 tumbled into bed, and next morning journeyed on 
 above 150 miles to Portland in order to sail thence on 
 Saturday night by the S. S. Columbia for San Fran- 
 cisco. As it was, I walked down to the wharf along- 
 side which lay the Queen. I met my good friend 
 Mr. Garrison, whose unobtrusive kindness I shall not 
 readily forget. He informed me that not only could 
 we get accommodation on board, but that, if it suited 
 us equally well, we could sail in the Queen direct for 
 San Francisco instead of making the weary journey 
 (retracing one's steps is always weary) back to Port- 
 land. We were delighted, and all difficulty as to 
 Darling (whom we left in Portland) and our bag- 
 gage there being promptly overcome by telegram, we 
 gratefully turned in to our new quarters — and what 
 quarters ! The Queen is a very fine and a very fast 
 ship ; and it is no exaggeration to say that expense and 
 ingenuity have not been spared in making her the 
 most luxurious boat I ever saw. My apartment is 
 splendid. I should be content to go in the Queen 
 round even by Cape Horn and so home to England. 
 I found General Grant had left the party at Port- 
 land, returning to New York with Mr. Billings, 
 Mr. Evarts and Mr. Grant, his son. I think I have 
 already said that General Grant is the one man who 
 is generally popular in the United States. It was a 
 pleasant sight to see the old veterans who had served 
 
A Month in the United States 109 
 
 under him, but who have since "turned their swords 
 into ploughshares," clustering round the car (which 
 was next ours) to have a word and a grasp of the 
 hand from him. There was no ceremony about the 
 matter. Any one who wanted to talk with him 
 walked into the car and was always well received. 
 There was something refreshing in all this absence of 
 those class distinctions which with us exist. Here was 
 a man who twice filled the highest executive post un- 
 der the Constitution, accessible to all from high to 
 low. I could not help thinking of those royal jour- 
 neys so carefully ordered that the vulgar gaze of the 
 people could not even penetrate to the stations along 
 the line. 
 
 Saturday, Sept. 15, 1883. 
 {En route Tacoma in Puget Sound to San Francisco.) 
 'T^His was a most delightful day, but wholly un- 
 ^ eventful. The great body of our party left by 
 7 o'clock train for Portland, intending to return to 
 New York by the route already traversed, but mak- 
 ing a stay of four days at Yellowstone Park in order 
 to explore the glories of that wonderful district. 
 
 As the train left the depot, the stern whistle of 
 the Queen sounded, and soon we were speeding at 
 15 knots (or nearly) the hour down the Sound for 
 Port TownseYid, which was our clearance port. Noth- 
 ing could possibly be more agreeable than the day. 
 The clouds had nearly all lifted; the atmosphere was 
 
no A Month in the United States 
 
 brilliant; the sun warm and bright, and we were thus 
 enabled to see under the most favourable conditions 
 the beauties of the Mediterranean of the northwest. 
 Take it all in all, the finest view I have yet seen 
 was that which lay around us after we had cleared 
 Port Townsend and were standing in a westerly di- 
 rection down the Juan de Fuca Straits for the great 
 Pacific Ocean. The weather I have already de- 
 scribed. To the north lay the island of San Juan, 
 and then a little to the northwest Vancouver Island 
 — pleasant objects for the eye to rest upon, but not 
 of commanding beauty. To the south (the southern 
 boundary of the Straits as Vancouver Island is the 
 northern) the fine Olympian range, in never-melting 
 snow atop and at bottom fringed by a dense fringe of 
 pine and cedar forest. Here and there great clouds 
 of freshly risen smoke showed us that the forest fires 
 were at work, but the wind was from the northwest 
 and pretty strong, and these did not obscure our view. 
 The waters of the Sound are now quickly shut out 
 from us, for Washington Territory and the State of 
 Oregon appear to join hands ; and here right astern of 
 us to the east is the great picture of the scene, the 
 noble Mount Baker nearly 13,000 feet high and 
 seeming all the bigger from his superiority over his 
 smaller brethren who are not far off. As we go down 
 the strait farther and farther to the west, and farther 
 and farther from Mount Baker, I find it impossible 
 to withdraw my eyes from it: it seems to exert a kind 
 
A Month in the United States 1 1 1 
 
 of fascination over me, and certainly, as we recede, 
 it seems to tower more and more into the sky until 
 the intervening pine-clad bluffs have disappeared; 
 and it stands noble and alone lifting its mighty head 
 high up from the horizon line ! At last we lose it in 
 the gradual coming shadows of night. I saw it better 
 and for a longer time than Rainier, but men who know 
 both well say Rainier is the grander mountain, as it is 
 certainly the higher by between i,ooo and 2,000 feet. 
 On we go, down the Sound, past the lighthouses 
 which north and south — on English and American 
 territory respectively— mark the entrance from the 
 Straits into the great Pacific. The beauty of the night 
 tempts many of us to remain on deck far into the 
 night; and, giving the mainland a wide berth, we rap- 
 idly run south, round Cape Flattery, past Destruction 
 Island, past Gray's Harbour (called after the Cap- 
 tain Gray who first discovered the mouths of the 
 Columbia River) past Cape Disappointment and the 
 Columbia mouths. At last I go to my very roomy 
 and luxurious quarters, pleasantly tired but not ex- 
 hausted, and at peace with all the world. 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 16, 1883. 
 
 ( 2nd day. En route from Tacoma to San Francisco.) 
 
 A GAIN a delightful but uneventful day! The Pa- 
 
 •^^^ cific is still true to its name, but it is a mistake to 
 
 suppose that there is not frequently along the coast 
 
112 A Month in the United States 
 
 very heavy weather. Our captain (Alexander) tells 
 me this is altogether about the best trip he has ever 
 had along the coast. Going north he says they had 
 nothing but fog and smoke with lumpy seas — this 
 time almost a smooth sea, and there has not been a 
 moment we have lost sight of land. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact that from Port Townsend 
 in Puget Sound on the north, to the port San Tego 
 in the south, there is not a single harbour which a 
 stranger in distress can safely enter except San Fran- 
 cisco. This is a distance of some 1,200 miles in ex- 
 tent ! 
 
 Speaking of our captain reminds me that the three 
 first officers on board this fine vessel, I.e., the captain 
 and the first mate and second mate, are all remarkably 
 young men. The captain does not look to be more 
 than forty years, if so much, while the first and sec- 
 ond mates are under thirty. Promotion in the mer- 
 chant service here seems to be quicker than with us. 
 
 The line of the Pacific coast, as we now view it, is 
 disappointing. There are comparatively no big coast 
 bluffs or mountains. The coast is generally rock- 
 bound, with a low line of hills lying a little Inland, 
 and these are, as a rule, covered with forests. Be- 
 yond there is a fertile valley and then still farther in- 
 land (but not visible to us) is a further range of 
 grander mountains called in Oregon State the Cas- 
 cade Range, and, where it reappears farther south in 
 the State of California, called the Sierra Nevada 
 
A Month in the United States 113 
 
 Range. The really fertile lands lie principally to the 
 west of these and in the valleys. 
 
 Mr. Tully, a member of Congress, returned by a 
 district of the State of California, whose acquaintance 
 I have here had the pleasure of making, tells me that 
 good weather for harvesting is such a certainty that 
 the farmers leave their threshed grain in the open 
 fields until it is convenient to cart it away to the de- 
 pots. I wish Ireland could count upon such a harvest- 
 time as this ! 
 
 I find Mr. Tully is a sound and well-informed Free 
 Trader. We had quite a lively discussion this morn- 
 ing to give us an appetite for breakfast. Ex-Gov- 
 ernor Perkins of the State of California and Mr. 
 Davis, ex-Congressman, took the Protection side and 
 Mr. Tully (firing an effective shot now and then) 
 left to me the main brunt of the fighting. As he af- 
 terwards phrased it, "I guess I thought I could leave 
 you to do the chewing up." 
 
 I am not going to go into this question here, but I 
 must say that while Fve discussed it with many able 
 and generally well-informed men, from Mr. Evarts 
 to ex-Governor Perkins, not one of them has really 
 argued or even attempted to argue the question. 
 They seem to think they have said all that was neces- 
 sary and proved the whole case by exclaiming, "Sir, 
 under the Protective system you condemn we've built 
 up the prosperous cities and communities you've wit- 
 nessed." It is no use to answer that this is a very 
 
114 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 bad example of the post hoc propter hoc argument, 
 and that I might with just as much force reply, "Yes, 
 in spite of Protection you certainly have some pros- 
 perity." Neither does it matter to these logicians to 
 point out that the inventors of their Tariff system, the 
 Hamiltons and the Clays, expressly advocated it as 
 only a temporary expedient to help an infant com- 
 merce to get over the ills and weaknesses of infancy. 
 One thing, however, struck me very forcibly. The 
 dislike of England is deep down in the breast of 
 Americans — at least of Americans of the North. 
 Senators and Congressmen alike have dropped re- 
 marks strongly indicative of this. They still feel 
 sorely the privateer proceedings in which some Eng- 
 lish firms took a prominent part in their war crisis, 
 and they add with some bitterness, "But we made 
 England pay for it." One thing is clear that any ad- 
 vocacy by England of Free Trade doctrines will re- 
 tard, not advance the question. 
 
 Another thing strikes me strongly. In the Ameri- 
 can press throughout the entire extent of country I 
 have travelled I have noticed that the so-called Eng- 
 lish news is almost entirely confined to news relating 
 to Irish questions — the National movement, Irish 
 land, and so forth. All this has its strong signifi- 
 cance. 
 
 We are still discussing Free Trade and American 
 interests in relation thereto (it has broken out afresh) 
 as the sun goes down behind a curtain of bright gold. 
 
A Month in the United States 115 
 
 giving promise that the delightful weather we have 
 had win be with us to the end. To-morrow (Mon- 
 day) night we hope with continued good luck to 
 reach the Golden Gates which lead to San Francisco. 
 
 Monday, Sept. 17, 1883. 
 
 (Still (3d day) en route from Tacoma to San 
 Francisco.) 
 /~\nce more a delightful but uneventful dayl Un- 
 ^-^ less indeed the fact that in the bright sunlight 
 since morning mighty whales have been disporting 
 themselves ahead of and all round us in great num- 
 bers can be called an event. I am sure Bertie would 
 consider it so. Well, Bertie, I will tell you all I know 
 about them. "There's a whale, good for forty bar- 
 rels at least," cries the second officer, and, looking 
 where he points, I see a disturbance of the otherwise 
 unruffled surface of the water — nothing more. Pres- 
 ently a little way off up goes a great waterspout thus : 
 . . . and the officer shouts out "there's another." 
 This time I see clearly enough a black object, bigger 
 than any live object I ever before saw In the sea, 
 floating for a moment or two lazily on the surface and 
 then he disappears. ■ 
 
 These appearances, Bertie, you will understand, 
 occurred again and again through the day; but I saw 
 no more than I saw at my first introduction to a whale. 
 In fact, these big creatures, Bertie, do not display 
 
Ii6 A Month in the United States 
 
 their immensity on the surface; they only come up 
 from time to time, displaying a black fin on the top of 
 their back and disappearing. 
 
 As we got farther south, the outlines of the shore 
 were bolder, the bluffs higher and occasionally very 
 fine — reminding me greatly of Ireland — say the coast 
 of Antrim, but nothing, I think, like so fine as parts 
 of the Antrim coast. 
 
 As we were finishing dinner (I enclose bill of fare, 
 which was a real Bill, for Frank's delectation) our 
 courteous Captain, rising from the table, said: "Gen- 
 tlemen, I hope you will come on deck a few minutes, 
 for we shall soon be passing through the 'Golden 
 Gate.' " 
 
 Presently up we went. We were approaching the 
 entrance to this, the finest harbour I ever saw. On 
 each side were lighthouses and also strong fortifica- 
 tions for the defence of the Port, and a little farther 
 to the south was a great rock known as Seal Rock, on 
 which literally thousands of seals hourly and daily 
 disport themselves. On, on we go, and now, fairly 
 through the entrance, we see the straggling lights of 
 this the greatest city of the South. But the Golden Gate 
 — where is it? Why so called? I look eagerly for- 
 ward, but all I see In the dull light of the rapidly clos- 
 ing day is a murky smoky atmosphere such as one 
 sees in the busy towns of Lancashire. Why the 
 Golden Gate? In my perplexity I turn back to the 
 west which we are leaving, and I need no further ex- 
 
A Month in the United States 117 
 
 planation. The revelation is made to me. The sun 
 has gone down but left the traces of his bright golden 
 glory behind him, and there between the two head- 
 lands which form the pillars (themselves gilt by the 
 brightness all around them) we see only one blaze of 
 rich golden light from side to side. It is well called 
 the Golden Gate. A turn in our course presently 
 shuts out this brightness from our view, and we dis- 
 cern in the dull light a number of vessels anchored in 
 what seems and is, in fact, an immense anchorage 
 ground. We tread our way cautiously amongst them, 
 and, finally landed at Broadway Wharf, we are taken 
 possession of by the employees of the Palace Hotel, 
 San Francisco, and within its hospitable portals wc 
 speedily find ourselves. I will by-and-by tell you 
 what San Francisco is like. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 18, 1883. 
 "|\ /Ty impressions of yesterday evening of the 
 -'-' -^ beauty of this place were quite confirmed this 
 morning. We arrived at the Palace Hotel and found 
 it all ablaze and a band playing in the atrium (Arthur 
 will explain) or court-yard, which was crowded. 
 
 Our rooms had been engaged and were the best in 
 the house — on the sixth story ! They were really very 
 fine — large, lofty, with bathroom and dressing-room 
 to each — in fact, very complete suites of rooms. In 
 the morning we found we had a distant view of the 
 
1 1 8 A Month in the United States 
 
 bay and across to Goat Island over the intervening 
 city. 
 
 'Frisco is certainly beautifully situated and beauti- 
 fully laid out. Sheltered from the west by the south- 
 ern arm of the bay, it rests upon a succession of hills 
 — many of them very steep — which seem to run al- 
 most in regular parallel lines. 
 
 Though much smaller in population than Chicago, 
 it is a much more taking city. There is also great 
 appearance of business activity. Altogether, after 
 New York it is the finest city I have seen here. 
 
 The system of tramcars is the most perfect I have 
 seen. Even the steepest hills are charged by steam- 
 trams worked on the endless-chain principle, and you 
 can travel from one end of the city to the other for 
 five cents. This is the only cheap thing, this tram 
 travelling, which I have yet come across in the 
 United States. 
 
 I went early to St. Mary's Hospital, situated on the 
 top of Rincon Hill. I was being shown into a parlour 
 when Kate appeared — looking on the whole very 
 well and strong, and exactly as she looked when 
 in Great Britain four years ago — not looking a day 
 older. 
 
 The Sisters of Mercy were not the first religious 
 Sisterhood in 'Frisco, but they have since their arrival, 
 about 1854, made marked progress. Outside the 
 convent and outside the Catholic community the noble 
 work they have done is gratefully acknowledged. 
 
A Month in the United States 119 
 
 On RIncon Hill they have a large Hospital, a 
 work-school, and a Home for aged women. 
 
 They have altogether five branches in 'Frisco, and 
 in Sacramento, and have in charge several schools. 
 They receive no aid from the State, and no compensa- 
 tion for the important teaching services which they 
 render. Neither do any others of the Catholic Schools. 
 In this important particular Catholic schools are much 
 better off in England. 
 
 Kate inquired very anxiously about everybody at 
 home, and I gave her the fullest particulars I could. 
 She complains that, although they have been prom- 
 ised to her, she has not received the photos of Mar- 
 garet, Lily, May, and Bertie. This should be seen 
 to. I am sure also she would like photos of little 
 Willie and Alice. 
 
 I also saw Mary Martin in her nun's dress. (She 
 used to be a companion of my mother.) She is a 
 bright, cheery little nun. 
 
 Joseph Jennings is here, carrying on the business of 
 an Insurance Agent under the firm of Jennings & 
 Stillman. He has very good offices in a good business 
 Street and seems to be doing a good business. Kate 
 speaks in the highest terms of him and of his family. 
 The latter live in Chicago. I thought Joseph Jen- 
 nings looking old and thin, but I believe I look nearly 
 as old myself, although I am a good many years his 
 junior. He speaks with great regard of Kate. 
 
 It appears that, when following his profession of 
 
120 A Month hi the United States 
 
 engineer a good many years ago, his left eye became 
 affected and continues to be so. But otherwise his 
 sight is good. I also saw James Gartlan, whom I 
 could not recollect ever having seen in Ireland. I 
 easily recognised him for his likeness to his brother 
 George, B.L., in Dublin. He seems very well and in 
 good spirits. He is working very hard for the Law, 
 which here covers a great deal of ground — including 
 the parts of Barrister and of Attorney, and also a 
 wide field of business-work besides. 
 
 Tell Letitia Jennings in Newry and Alexander 
 Gartlan about their respective relatives. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. 19, 1883. 
 "VT^E drove out this morning at 6.30 to Cliff 
 * * House, situated about eight miles from 'Frisco 
 and opposite the famous Seal Rocks (to which I have 
 before alluded) for breakfast. We went through the 
 Park, which is of great extent and beautifully laid out, 
 and here I travelled on the first good road which I've 
 seen in the United States. The roads in town and 
 country are, generally speaking, simply execrable. 
 
 The Rocks are certainly remarkable. They are lit- 
 erally covered with seals, and the water about them 
 seems literally swimming with them. They seem to 
 be on the best terms with the wild birds, with whom 
 they share possession in a quite friendly way. 
 
 The hotel has a name for breakfast, and accord- 
 
A Month in the United States 121 
 
 Ingly we ordered what proved a very expensive one, 
 and a very bad one and included in our menu one of 
 the American delicacies, viz, : terrapin. Terrapin Is 
 a kind of small land turtle. Well, this is the third 
 great American delicacy that has deceived me. The 
 other two are sweet corn and soft-shell crab. But I 
 wish to say that I do not think I ate any one of tjiem 
 under favourable conditions. The fact is you require 
 to be introduced to these delicacies under extremely 
 favourable auspices, or you may possibly do them a 
 life-long injustice ! I should like to avoid this. 
 
 A great friend of Kate's, a Mr. Oliver, called upon 
 me, accompanied by his son-in-law, Mr. Tobin, who 
 is a banker and practising lawyer In this place. Mr. 
 Oliver and Mr. Tobin are Irishmen, and the former 
 Is one of the many men here who are reputed mill- 
 ionaires. 
 
 We had with both a good deal of conversation 
 about Ireland and Irishmen at home and abroad. 
 They are both, I should say, strong Parnellites in the 
 main. Mr. Tobin commands a volunteer local regi- 
 ment and he has under him men of '48 and 1866, and 
 even one man who took part in the Tallaght episode 
 on the borders of Dublin and WIcklow, only a few 
 years ago. The Irishmen here are strongly national, 
 as Indeed they generally are throughout the United 
 States. 
 
 As to the position of Irishmen In 'Frisco, It Is good, 
 very good. A native American told me he considered 
 
122 A Month in the United States 
 
 their rise remarkable, bearing in mind the fact that 
 they come to this country the worst provided to battle 
 successfully in their new life in the three important 
 points of education, skilled training, and money. 
 
 Since 1863 there has been no serious collapse in 
 trade; but in that year the town was in an awful state 
 for want of employment for the poor. Kate told me 
 that in that time they fed at the convent daily some 
 300 persons. Here the Chinese question presents the 
 gravest difficulty. The Chinese number in this city 
 about 60,000. There is more complexity In this matter 
 than I at first thought. It Is objected that these 
 Chinese, unlike the German, Irish, and other like 
 classes of emigrants, do not come here intending to 
 form any part personally of the body politic. They 
 do not coalesce with the other classes. They stand 
 apart; they are neither given nor give in marriage, 
 and their savings, instead of going to Increase the na- 
 tional wealth, are steadily hoarded to be spent by them 
 (after a few years' sojourn here) in their native land. 
 It is objected that it is unfair to bring the labour of 
 such a class as this into competition with and to the 
 prejudice of the classes who are part of the country 
 and who are willing, if necessary, to fight for it. 
 
 It seems on all hands admitted that, although 
 Chinese honesty does not stand high, Chinese Indus- 
 try, Intelligence, and Ingenuity do. The Chinese have 
 a theatre here. 
 
 [I wish here to note (out of place) that Kate ob- 
 
A Month in the United States 123 
 
 jects to the American Free School System on one 
 ground, which Cardinal Manning takes against the 
 English School Board System. It is this: that it pau- 
 perises education, that it enables persons who are 
 fully able to pay or at least to contribute to the edu- 
 cation of their children to come in forma pauperis to 
 the Free Schools.] 
 
 We visited a remarkable yearly exhibition of the 
 manufactures of the State of California at the Me- 
 chanics' Institute. It certainly gives a wide idea of 
 the development of their local manufactures and of 
 the wealth of the locality. Their furniture was par- 
 ticularly rich and luxurious in design. They have got 
 in this State on the coast a red wood (unknown else- 
 where)- which is soft and easily worked and which 
 takes a polish as fine as mahogany. This wood, I 
 see, enters largely into their furniture-making. 
 
 We left in the evening via the Ferry and Oakland 
 for Madera, about 180 miles from 'Frisco en route 
 for the far-famed Yosemite. 
 
 Our line followed the inland portion of this great 
 Bay for many miles, and passing through a great 
 wheat-bearing country, namely the valley of the San 
 Roque, we finally arrived at Madera at 11.45, i^'^" 
 tending to pass the night in the Pullman cars. 
 
 It was remarkable the enormous number of sacks 
 of grain which we found piled up in the open air un- 
 protected, on the ground or in open wagons en route 
 for shipment at San Francisco. The faith of the 
 
124 A Month in the United States 
 
 farmers in the dryness of the weather is great, and 
 appears to be well founded. It is now just a month 
 since I landed at New York and I affirm that during 
 the whole of that term I have not noticed altogether 
 one hour's rain ! When in the Northwest, it was said 
 there was some rain one night, but I do not vouch for 
 the fact. This dryness has its inconvenience, as my 
 next day's chronicle will attest, but to the farmer who 
 wants his grain saved these inconveniences count for 
 little. 
 
 Thursday, Sept. 20, 1883. 
 T F ON the evening of Thursday, September 20th, 
 -*- I had wanted to punish my direst enemy with 
 seventy, I would have enjoined his riding by the 
 American stage from Madera to Clark (a distance 
 of about seventy miles) in the tail seat on a hot dayl 
 We started at 6 o'clock sharp and were journeying in 
 pain and misery until close upon 8 o'clock in the even- 
 ing, altogether fourteen hours ! Whence the trouble, 
 you Vv'ill ask? Answer, everywhere. The carriage 
 had no springs, and the driver drove as if it had. The 
 road was full of boulder stones and ruts, and the 
 driver drove his team as if he were tooling round 
 Hyde Park. Bump, bump, every two or three min- 
 utes; you are shot up in the air a foot or so, be the 
 same more or less, and come down on the hard seat 
 in a manner to seriously affect, temporarily at least, 
 the. base of the spine. Nor was this all. The dust 
 
A Month in the United States 125 
 
 lay feet deep in the ground (they have had no rain 
 since April) and as the six horses galloped along, we 
 at the end were enveloped in clouds of dust so thick 
 at times that we could not see the horses in front. 
 Anything like the suffocating feeling I never before 
 experienced, for, be it remembered, the thermometer 
 was at 98° in the shade ! At last we got to the end of 
 the weariest day's journey I ever made. I made a 
 rush for the bathroom, and having secured primary 
 possession I left after a few minutes, intimate with 
 soap, water, and scrubbers, so that I became again 
 recognisable by my friends. The sight of all the 
 passengers was bad, but Martin and I were the worst. 
 I am sure I had enough dust down my back to fur- 
 nish a moderate-sized dust-bin ! 
 
 I can now look back with more equanimity on the 
 proceedings of the morning. 'For the early part of 
 the day we passed through a flat, uninteresting coun- 
 try which, however, is said to be great at wheat-bear- 
 ing, but was to-day bare and parched. We passed 
 several beds of rivers where obviously in winter and 
 spring the water brawls loudly, and found nothing but 
 dry sand and boulders. Indeed until we reached a 
 village called Fresno Flats, I did not see a single 
 running stream, although we passed many dry 
 beds. 
 
 One curious and interesting thing we noticed. 
 Close by our trail or road ran for miles a kind of 
 trough supported by timber at heights from the 
 
126 A Month in the United States 
 
 ground. Now and then we lost sight of it for hours, 
 but again it reappeared. I thought it must be some 
 irrigation apparatus (and probably it helped irriga- 
 tion also), but that is not its main purpose. It is a 
 timber chute, some fifty miles long! The timber is 
 cut in the mountain fifty miles up country and sent 
 down baulk by baulk by means of water, which in 
 spring is plentiful enough. This will give you a good 
 idea of the vastness of the country, and how little its 
 people reckon about distances. Fancy such a thing in 
 Ireland stretching from Dublin to Newry ! 
 
 By-and-by we gain the forest land, and bit by bit 
 make our way up the approaches to the Sierra Nevada 
 Range, in which lies the wondrous Yosemite Valley. 
 The forest-road track is startling in the extreme. It 
 is not wider in any place than about twenty feet, and 
 it winds in and out and in and out of the mountain 
 gorges and along very precipitous hills, margined 
 more frequently than not by a steep fall many feet 
 deep. I am not nervous, but I confess I did not at all 
 like our road. But our driver, not coachman (I com- 
 mitted a great offence by so calling him), rattled his 
 six horses along round the sharp turns with great skill 
 and also great unconcern. Occasionally looking back 
 the track we made seemed uncomfortably close to the 
 edge. Later still our difficulty was greater, for we 
 were overtaken by the night, and yet on we went as if 
 it were all plain sailing, and finally arrived at Clark's 
 on the slope of a hill about 3,000 feet above sea level, 
 
A Month in the United States 127 
 
 but still about twenty-five difilcult miles from the 
 Yosemite. 
 
 Clark's was a fairly comfortable hostelry, and, like 
 all the hotels that we have visited west, was scrup- 
 ulously clean. 
 
 A simple meal, and I was soon between the sheets 
 and speedily forgetful of an unpleasant day's drive. 
 
 Friday, Sept. 21, 1883. 
 T NOTE here lest I should forget and because I know 
 ^ Mrs. Macaulay will be interested in the fact that 
 Joshua O'Neill, formerly in Mr. Macaulay's em- 
 ployment at Randalstown, is now bookkeeper or 
 clerk at the Hibernian Bank, San Francisco. I have 
 not yet seen him, but I intend to try to do so on my 
 return. 
 
 This day our drive was continued through moun- 
 tainous forests just like the latter part of yesterday's 
 drive. The timber was magnificent. It was quite 
 common to see trees bordering the road five and six 
 and even eight feet in diameter and 250 feet and up- 
 wards in height and straight as a lance. Indeed the 
 timber was quite as fine in the forest approaches as in 
 the valley itself. 
 
 We started at 7 o'clock and were due at Cook's in 
 the valley at 2 o'clock. At about 12.30 we were la- 
 bouriously surmounting the last mountain spur which 
 lies between us and the valley, and about i o'clock a 
 
128 A Month in the United States 
 
 glorious view certainly burst upon us. We were at 
 Inspiration Point! From a height of still several 
 hundred feet above the valley, which is itself about 
 4,000 feet above the sea, we are looking down upon 
 the greatest aggregate of noble mountains I ever be- 
 fore saw at one moment. 
 
 Close to us to the left is II Capitan, a rock of sev- 
 eral thousand feet, which rises sheer up from the val- 
 ley. To our right is also the Bridal Veil Fall (900 
 feet unbroken fall), in which the volume of water is 
 just now small, but which even now is suggestive of 
 its name from the lace-like appearance the water pre- 
 sents as the wind catches and seems to spread it out 
 in its long descent. Also to our right is Sentinel 
 Dome, rising abruptly from the valley and from 
 which we afterwards got our best view, or at all 
 events our second best. Further on to the left was 
 Glacier Point, a rock rising perpendicularly from the 
 valley with an unbroken continuous face exceeding 
 3,000 feet! And still further away were, faintly ap- 
 pearing in the distance, the peaks and points of the 
 Lyall and Obelisk groups of mountains — the former 
 some 13,000 feet in height. On our left was Eagle's 
 Point and Cloud's Rest — the latter some 10,000 feet 
 high. All the mountains bounding the valley are 
 granite, and at first sight present the appearance of 
 being snow-clad; but, in fact, patches and small 
 patches only of snow now rest upon them. The val- 
 ley is rich in land and in timber, and the hardy pine 
 
A Month in the United Slates 129 
 
 clings to what seems the clayless rocks and is to be 
 found rearing its head high up the sides, and even on 
 the very tops of the highest mountains. 
 
 I have just re-read what I have written, and I see 
 I have failed to emphasise sufficiently the characteris- 
 tic look of the valley, which is that the rock moun- 
 tains, like walls, rise perpendicularly all round it; and 
 indeed the very faces of the rocks are smooth and 
 polished. In fact, the idea which was forced upon my 
 mind was that the bottom has fallen out here and left 
 the walls standing. I find that my unlettered view is 
 accepted by some savant called Whitney, who says the 
 existing state could only have been produced by vol- 
 canic action involving enormous subsidence. Others 
 refer to the glacier theory as explaining it. It ap- 
 pears this valley is, after all, known to the white man 
 only some thirty years. About that time the Indians 
 were making very successful cattle raids, and it could 
 not be discovered whither the cattle were driven. At 
 last an expedition, headed by a Captain Boling, suc- 
 ceeded in discovering the vallev and a large party of 
 Indians with great numbers of cattle. After consid- 
 erable fighting these Indians were driven out of the 
 valley, and escaped by what is called to this day the 
 Indians' Caiion, which looked at to-day with our eyes 
 seems impenetrable and impassable. 
 
 Opinions differed in our party of ten as to the 
 grandeur of the scene, but on the whole opinion 
 seemed to be that, while this was the more peculiar 
 
J 3^ ^ Month in the United States 
 
 and remarkable view, some of the Swiss views are 
 grander. We will, I hope. Madam, next year see 
 some of these grand Swiss views together. 
 
 Cook's Hotel in the valley is an aggregation of 
 small wooden huts. Nearly all are one story high; 
 but it was cleanly and comfortable, and the food ex- 
 cellent. 
 
 We were to be up betimes in the morning to see 
 the sun rise in Mirror Lake, and so we were off early 
 to bed. What this mystery means, the sun rising in 
 the Lake, will hereafter appear. 
 
 Saturday, Sept. 22, 1883. 
 '' I ^His has been in every way a delightful and inter- 
 •*- esting day. My opinion, and the opinion of all 
 my fellow-travellers, of the striking grandeur as well 
 as of the unique character of this valley, has been 
 greatly raised. 
 
 Early Martin and I rode on excellent ponies to 
 Mirror Lake. The distance was only about three 
 miles, but the part of the valley we traversed very in- 
 teresting. We followed the line of the Merced 
 River, which is formed high up in the mountains to 
 the east of the valley and is fed by the snow-water. 
 Just now the effects of river and of waterfall are at 
 their worst, owing to the long drought, but I have no 
 difl^culty in picturing what a beautiful as well as 
 grand valley this must be in spring when the winter's 
 
MIRROR LAKE, VOSKMITE VALLICV 
 
A Month in the United States 131 
 
 snow is yielding to the summer's sun and the earth 
 wears its green mantle. 
 
 As a lake, Mirror Lake is a failure and a serious 
 failure. When we first saw it this morning, our feel- 
 ing was one of complete disappointment. Great sand- 
 banks showed us plainly enougii that it is of consid- 
 erable extent when at its best, but to-day it is shrunk 
 into small dimensions and is indeed little better than 
 a stagnant pool. 
 
 But lo! the wonders it reflects! It is situated in a 
 bend of the valley where the walls are about one and 
 one-half miles apart. The walls are on one side the 
 North Dome, and on the other Mount Watkin (so 
 called after the photographer) and these rise abruptly 
 from the level, while their polished smooth faces and 
 white appearance readily lend themselves to clear re- 
 flection. 
 
 We approach the banks of the contracted water, 
 and standing upon a vantage ground of rock we look 
 upon the murky bosom of the lake. It was wonder- 
 ful. Clearly as possible we see the inverted moun- 
 tains reflected. Trees, rocks, shrubs ever, deep, deep 
 down in the waters of the Lake. I really felt that I 
 could gaze for hours, occasionally altering my point 
 of view, on this scene, so peculiar and interesting was 
 it. But the most striking incident was yet to happen. 
 Deep down in the heart of the valley sunrise is late; 
 and when it appears in Mirror Lake, it appears close 
 to the top of one of the Lyall Range, which is duly 
 
132 A Month in the United States 
 
 mirrored in the lake. As sunrise approaches, we fix 
 our eyes in the lake at the point where already we see 
 the reflected glow of the coming sun. Presently in 
 the lake deep down we see the glitter as of a great 
 brilliant. Larger and larger it becomes until its 
 brightness dazzles the eye, and you are obliged to 
 look elsewhere — for now the sun has fully risen in the 
 Mirror Lake. 
 
 We canter back to breakfast, well satisfied with 
 our morning, and with appetites well calculated to do 
 justice to Mr. Cook's good things. 
 
 But even more interesting doings remained to us 
 this day. We are still in the valley. We want to get 
 out of it. We want to get up to the heights and par- 
 ticularly to the height known as Glacier Point. How 
 is this to be done ? The glacier rocks rise abruptly be- 
 hind us, perpendicular as a wall, with here and there 
 pine trees and underwood at intervals clinging to their 
 sides. Yet we are told it is up this rock we are to ride 
 and ride by the Macaulay Trail ! 
 
 The name interested me, and the man, when we 
 finally arrived at his Hotel, situated on tKe top, at 
 the very point, and learned his history. 
 
 He was born some few miles from Randalstown. 
 His name is James Macaulay. He claims no relation- 
 ship with Mr. P. Macaulay, but I must say he has got 
 exactly the square, rather determined Macaulay face. 
 He worked as a lad at Randalstown Mill and recol- 
 lects all about the Macaulay family and all about 
 
A Mofith in the United States 133 
 
 Rev. Dr. Curoe, Joshua O'Neill, Dr. McDonnell and 
 the rest. He afterwards went to work in Glasgow, 
 afterwards on board a Cunard steamer, and finally 
 came to this country to work as a miner. He under- 
 took, entirely at his own risk, the making of this track 
 when he did not possess in all the world $500, and it 
 ended by costing him about $5,000, equal to £1,000 
 sterling ! He obtained from the State the right to 
 collect toll for ten years from those using the trail, 
 but lately the Government have bought up the residue 
 of his lease and the Macaulay Trail is now open to 
 all the world. To complete his personal history — he 
 married a widow, a German a good deal older than 
 himself, and he has two infant sons, twins, a couple 
 of years old. He has also a step-son aged about nine 
 years, and the finest, brightest, and pluckiest little 
 fellow I have seen for many a day. I wish Bertie 
 could see the places that youngster rode a big mule 
 up and down without winking. I am sure Bertie 
 would be just as plucky if he was brought up amongst 
 these mountains — scrambling beside precipices since 
 his cradle, and indeed his very cradle rocked on the 
 verge of a precipice. Macaulay's Hotel is most pic- 
 turesquely situated at the top of the trail, and on the 
 Glacier Point, and it proved to be as cleanly and com- 
 fortable as it is picturesque. 
 
 The trail (or horse and foot track) is a very re- 
 markable piece of work, not only creditable to the 
 maker's resolution, but also very remarkable for the 
 
134 A Month in the United States 
 
 considerable ingenuity it displays. Some idea will al- 
 ready have been gathered of the difficulty of the 
 work from my description of the place; but that dif- 
 ficulty will be perhaps better understood from the 
 fact that to rise 3,000 feet vertically about 4I miles 
 have to be traversed — equal to 23,760 feet — and still 
 the track, is very steep. The ride up on our ponies 
 was not absolutely free from danger; but, so long as 
 the traveller does not lose nerve, the danger is slight. 
 The ponies have the very sensible but slightly dis- 
 quieting habit of walking to the very edge at the turns 
 in order to make the inclined plane as easy as possible ; 
 and as these verges frequently introduce you to an 
 abrupt fall of a very ugly appearance, the ride is not 
 wholly free from excitement. But it was glorious! 
 Every fresh turn, almost, introduced us to fresh views 
 of this wonderful place; and I affirm that, until I 
 rode this trail and found myself looking down and 
 around me from Glacier Point, I had no adequate 
 idea of the beauty and grandeur of the Yosemite dis- 
 trict. The views were superb, and indeed compre- 
 hended all the views to be seen closer in the valley — 
 the Mirror Lake, the Nevada and Verrall Falls, the 
 Cloud's Rest, and so on. 
 
 For the benefit of all future visitors to Yosemite I 
 wish to record my experience that they ought to go 
 direct to Macaulay's Hotel, Glacier Point, see the 
 sunset from Sentinel Dome, stay the night there, and 
 thence proceed to the valley — if so inclined — after- 
 
A Month in the United States 135 
 
 wards. The walk down the trail is not at all labouri- 
 ous, while the walk up is a very serious undertaking 
 except for the young and active. At present railway 
 and hotel interests are combined to send the visitors 
 direct into the valley and to keep them there as long 
 as possible. I affirm that this is not the way to see the 
 Yosemite to the best advantage. 
 
 I hav^e said Macaulay's Hotel was picturesquely 
 situated: it is — startlingly so. My excellent bedroom 
 on the first floor was approached by a ladder and bal- 
 cony on the valley side of the house. I declare I am 
 not exaggerating when I say that upon opening my 
 door to come out it looked as if, should I miss my 
 foot, I should be hurled into the valley three thou- 
 sand feet below. 
 
 I afterwards went to the verge of the cliff or point 
 where very stout iron bars had been placed to remove 
 any possibility of danger. It was appalling. If I 
 dropped my stick, it would fall plumb with the rock 
 to its base. The cattle in the plain below were the 
 merest specks. Fancy a perpendicular descent about 
 ten times (I should say) the height of Nelson's 
 Pillar! 
 
 Later on, escorted by young Jules (his mother is a 
 native of Strasburg) , we rode up to the tip-top of Sen- 
 tinel Dome to see the sunset. The sunset effects, as 
 a matter of colour, were not grand, but the view all 
 round the horizon was strikingly beautiful and well 
 repaid our efforts. The clear grey light of evening 
 
136 A Month hi the United States 
 
 seemed to bring out Into clearer outline the varied 
 peaks and crags and fantastic shapes of the moun- 
 tains all round the horizon, and showed, away to the 
 east and north, the vague forms of mountain upon 
 mountain until they became undistinguishable from 
 the clouds. We were looking upon the great Sierra 
 Nevada Range. 
 
 Something attempted and done had earned for us 
 a good night's rest;^ and we got it. I should desire 
 no better accommodation in every way than James 
 Macaulay and his wife afforded us. 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 23, 1883. 
 "^ I "HE stage was to start at 9 o'clock to take on Mar- 
 -*- tin and myself and any passengers who should 
 ride up the Macaulay Track from the valley. 
 
 We were up and about at 5 o'clock, drinking in this 
 wonderful air and enjoying from the hotel balcony 
 one of the finest views the neighbourhood affords. I 
 tolci the seven passengers who came panting from be- 
 low in time to catch the stage what they had missed, 
 joined with them in insisting that the stage should 
 wait until they had, at the least, the opportunity of 
 seeing the view from Glacier Point, and finally made 
 
 'Something attempted, something done, 
 Has earned a night's repose. 
 
 —Longfellow's Village Blacksmith. 
 
A Month in the United States 137 
 
 them ardent converts to my view that the proper way 
 to enter the valley and to enjoy it is z'ia Macaulay's 
 Hotel and Glacier Point, 
 
 The first stage of our journey towards Clark's was 
 new to us. It covered a distance of about fourteen 
 miles to a place called Chincopin. It was through a 
 beautiful natural country, charmingly wooded and 
 undulating, but as dry as a parched pea. 
 
 Arrived at Clark's at 2.30. There still remained 
 something more to do — namely, to see Mariposa 
 Grove, where the big trees are to be seen. A trunk of 
 a tree from this spot is, I think, on view in the Crys- 
 tal Palace. I had resolved not to see this sight unless 
 I could go on horseback. I was, and I am, heartily 
 sick of American staging. I succeeded in getting a 
 very excellent black mare and had a most enjoyable 
 ride of about eighteen miles there and back. The 
 trees are awfully big, and there are a great many of 
 them scattered over the forest; but that said, all is 
 said. There was nothing particularly interesting 
 about them. A space through one of them was cut 
 sufficiently wide for the stage and six horses to drive; 
 and in many of them there were holes big enough to 
 shelter me and my horse from rain, had rain 
 happily fallen. Still these are not the boss trees of the 
 world. There are, I believe, some at Teneriffe even 
 larger. 
 
 I want to say a word about the merits of my bonny 
 black mare. With us, as you know, walking, trotting. 
 
138 A Month in the United States 
 
 and cantering are the paces most cultivated in our 
 roadsters and hacks. Well, my black was first class 
 at walking and cantering, but as bad a trotter as any 
 one could desire. She had, however, tivo paces ut- 
 terly unknown amongst our horses, called here 
 "one footing" and "three footing," which, al- 
 though not elegant to look at, are easy to the rider 
 and help over the ground at from five to six miles the 
 hour. 
 
 Altogether I had through the pine forests a charm- 
 ing ride and one comparatively free from dust — that 
 pest of American country life in the advanced sum- 
 mer and early autumn. 
 
 Monday, Sept. 24, 1883. 
 T T Ze started from Clark's and retraced our steps in 
 * ^ the stage via Fish Camp, Fresno Flats, and 
 Goldmine Gulch to Mace's Hotel and Madera. 
 There was nothing noticeable en route. We had se- 
 cured the front seats by the driver, and therefore 
 suffered comparatively little from the dust, but 
 greatly from the intense heat — quite 98° in the shade. 
 I was not sorry when we reached Mace's Hotel, 
 Madera, and had so reached the end of our staging, 
 with which I am not in love. Mr. Mace, by the way, 
 weighs 350 pounds, which means 25 stone English. 
 
A Month in the United States 139 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 25, 1883. 
 ^T /"e were astir this morning at 4 A.M., as our 
 ^ ^ train left Madera at 5 o'clock, arriving in San 
 Francisco at 12.30 p.m. 
 
 Looking back on all the incidents of this Yosemite 
 Expedition, covering some six days, I ask myself has 
 it indeed been a pleasure or a pain? And the answer 
 is by no means clear. 
 
 On the whole, looking back, I am glad I have seen 
 the Yosemite, but, could I have foreseen the physical 
 labour and the disagreeableness involved, I should 
 certainly not have gone. I advise my friends not to 
 go until a railway has reduced the staging distance, 
 which is now about 100 miles, to at most a fifth of 
 that distance. Again I advise them not to go in the 
 summer or autumn. I am sure it is an enchanting and 
 marvellous spot when the streams and rivers and falls 
 are full and when, free from dust, vegetation of all 
 kinds, on mountain and in dale. In tree and in flower, 
 Is freshest and brightest. I am sure also that to the 
 geologist and the botanist It must afford a world of 
 interest; and several times during this trip I have 
 found myself regretting that I did not know at least 
 a little something of both botany and geology. Learn 
 from this, O ye young ! while there Is yet time, to cul- 
 tivate extended tastes. They will be a pleasure to 
 you always, but especially a pleasure and an added 
 interest when, later in life, you come to travel. 
 
140 A Month in the United States 
 
 So ends the story of our Yosemite Expedition. 
 
 I am not sorry to find myself, as I write, within 
 reach of the Bath of the Turk and the street tramcar 
 — free from jolting — of the white man. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept. 26, 1883. 
 O AN Francisco en route for Salt Lake City. I am 
 *^ writing in difficulties and in face of a great dis- 
 aster! I have lost my notebook! And now, on 
 Thursday, October 4th, I am sitting down to try to 
 reproduce from memory the incidents of eight days. 
 My usage is to note from day to day anything notable 
 that occurs and then write my despatch when I get 
 to steady quarters at my hotel. Now and then I try 
 the train, but it is too shaky, at least for me. I am 
 writing at the Southern Hotel, St. Louis — having left 
 S. 'Frisco on the date a-top. 
 
 Even now at St. Louis we are little more than half- 
 way across this great continent on our way to the 
 Eastern Seas — as they are here called. I went this 
 morning to the Hibernian Bank, where I heard 
 Joshua O'Neill was a principal bookkeeper — I mean 
 Joshua O'Neill, formerly Mr. Macaulay's book- 
 keeper at the Randalstown Mills. The poor fellow 
 was very glad to see me and seemed greatly gratified 
 at my calling. I think I should have known him, 
 though he is greatly changed and aged. He is now 
 almost alone in the world : he has only one surviving 
 
A Month in the United States 141 
 
 daughter. He enquired in the kindest way for Mr, 
 IMacaulay, Mrs. Macaulay, and their children. He 
 was greatly grieved to hear of Mr. Macaulay's death. 
 I told him how well Charles and Colman had got on 
 — especially Colman — and he seemed delighted. He 
 was full of gratitude to Mother Mary Baptist Rus- 
 sell, to whom he says he owes not only his present 
 position, but the first start he got in San Francisco in 
 other employment. He does not on the whole think 
 very much of the tone of American life. He says 
 there is very little faith or religious feeling in the 
 country except amongst the Catholics, and that very 
 many of these are careless and lukewarm. So far as 
 I can gather, there is no place in the United States 
 in which on the whole the Catholic body, or, in other 
 words, the Irish Catholic body, stand so well as in 
 San Francisco in point of religious organization, edu- 
 cation, mercantile, social, and political position. 
 
 I spent all yesterday afternoon and the greater part 
 of to-day with Kate. At St. Mary's Hospital the 
 children of their schools — bright, healthy, intelligent- 
 looking children they were — went through certain 
 calisthenic and musical exercises very pleasant to see 
 and to hear. As to the latter, I was rather surprised 
 when the pianist who accompanied the singers struck 
 up the English national anthem of Dr. John Ball. I 
 was surprised. "God save the Queen" here in a Re- 
 publican country ! However, my surprise soon 
 ceased, for the accompanying song was an ode to 
 
142 A Month in the United States 
 
 America entitled "America," and which as a national 
 air ranks close after "The Star Spangled Banner." 
 
 I also went through the hospital wards. They are 
 bright, cheery, and wonderfully neat and clean. 
 They have wards for the poor and also for those who 
 can pay for higher class accommodation. Their pa- 
 tients are frequently Protestants — indeed, Kate says 
 she knows the Protestant Bishop very well from the 
 fact of his frequently coming to visit his co-religionists 
 and subjects in the wards. 
 
 Later we drove (that is, Kate, Sister Mary Aquin 
 Martin, James Gartlan and myself) in the convent 
 carriage-and-pair (!) to the Penitents' Home and the 
 Reformatory, at Potrero Avenue, on the outskirts of 
 the city. Our driver was a rum old fellow — a Dun- 
 dalk man, whose name I forget, but who has pur- 
 chased a home under the care of the Sisters for life ! 
 He occasionally, when it suits his dignity, officiates as 
 coachman — I beg his pardon, as driver. 
 
 The establishment at Potrero was most interesting, 
 and it is worth noting that as regards the inmates of 
 the Reformatory School these are committed to the 
 care of the good Sisters by the State authorities, who 
 pay for each child or at least contribute to the support 
 of each child. 
 
 I think I have already mentioned poor old Miss 
 Kate Russell, one of the three^ sisters formerly of 
 Elm Hall, Dublin, who lived many years in Cincin^ 
 ^In reality there were six sisters. 
 
A Month in the United States 143 
 
 natl. She is the last survivor. She is a ladylike, 
 handsome old person who is ending her days with 
 Kate in cheerfulness and peace. 
 
 She was delighted to see me and seemed to feel the 
 leave-talcing a good deal. She thought me very lilce 
 Kate, but my face seemed to awalcen old memories,^ 
 some sweet and some bitter, no doubt, that probably 
 long had slept. Poor, dear old soul ! God has any- 
 way given her a quiet evening for her life. 
 
 One interesting spot, and a sad one in some sort, 
 too, is the Sisters' Grave Ground at Potrero. Here 
 on the bright hillside under the shadow of the maple 
 tree and the cottonwood rest nearly one-half of that 
 devoted band whom Kate led now nearly 30 years 
 ago from the Old World to the New, carrying the 
 Cross with them. 
 
 San Francisco — California indeed — has a very old 
 Catholic history. It was here years ago, when Spain 
 was still a great power and her people an adventurous 
 race, that the great Christian symbol was planted by 
 Juan Cobrillo in 1542 — nearly half a century before 
 Drake sailed into San Francisco. It was here, too, 
 that in 1770 was founded the great Franciscan Mis- 
 sion under Father Francis Junipero Serra, which has 
 left its mark even until now. Indeed the name of the 
 great city of the South is that of the Patron Saint of 
 the Missionaries, and was given to It by Father Juan 
 Crespi and Francisco Gomez in 1770 with the assent 
 of Gaspar de Portola, Governor for Spain of Lower 
 
144 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 California. I have read some quaint appreciative 
 lines of Bret Harte on this point. 
 
 The traces of the old Spanish occupation amongst 
 the people are few. Many of the Spanish names of 
 places survive, and Mission Bay, in the greater San 
 Franciscan Bay, still marks the spot where the pioneer 
 missionaries spent their lives in the service of the 
 Great Master. One of the old mission churches sur- 
 vives here — adobe-built. This kind of building needs 
 explanation : It consists of bricks which are not fire- 
 dried and which are joined or built together by a 
 mud-cement made of the same clay of which they are 
 made, until the whole becomes a homogeneous con- 
 solidated mass. Farther south, namely at Monterey, 
 along the coast, are the ruins of a very fine church 
 built in connection with the San Carlos or Carmel 
 Mission of that place and which dates back to the 
 epoch of the Father Serra before mentioned. 
 
 We dined at San Francisco with a Mr. Oliver, a 
 great friend of Mother Mary Baptist, a warm- 
 hearted and genuine Irishman ?nd Catholic. He is 
 one of the many millionaires of this place. We met 
 several representative Irishmen and Catholics. 
 Amongst them Mr. Tobin, Sr., and Mr. (or Col- 
 onel) Tobin, Jr., father and son, who are respect- 
 able lawyers here. There were many shades of politi- 
 cal opinion expressed and represented, from pure 
 Whiggism to ultra-Parriellism or perhaps more prop- 
 erly Healyism. We agreed in two things, however: 
 
A Month in the United States 145 
 
 the first that at bottom there is little love for England 
 amongst the American people, and secondly that 
 amongst the majority of the Irish of all classes and 
 positions the feeling is one of implacable, irreconcil- 
 able hatred of England. It is a mistake, too, to sup- 
 pose that this feeling is confined to the lower order 
 or to what may be described as the rowdy element. 
 Far from it; it extends to men of means, of education 
 and position, who are utterly opposed to politicians 
 of the dynamite and murder calibre. Colonel Tobin 
 said that he had no doubt that in San Francisco alone 
 he could raise at least 12,000 men who, without 
 thought of pay or of consequences to themselves or 
 their business, would fight in any war by the side of 
 any people against England. I doubt if there be 
 much exaggeration in this statement. It is to be recol- 
 lected at the same time that what is pointed at is no 
 Irish rising — for on all hands it is admitted that that 
 is out of the question. It is the old story — the old cry 
 — "England's difficulty is Ireland's opportunity." 
 
 The position of the Irish in San Francisco is very 
 strong. Probably it is stronger in San Francisco and 
 in Chicago than elsewhere In the United States. 
 Their influence is considerable and legitimate. They 
 show generally on this continent the wretched love 
 for Government place that distinguishes them at 
 home — in common be It said with their Scotch 
 brethren. Their great competitors for place here are 
 the Germans, and the race between these nationalities 
 
146 A Month in the United States 
 
 for place is close and exciting. The native Americans 
 are not in it with them. 
 
 Of the position of the Irish in the State of New 
 York I shall have to speak very differently by and by. 
 
 I left poor Kate very sad, poor soul, but greatly 
 pleased at having had the Old Land brought closer to 
 her by my presence. God bless her and all the Sister- 
 hood, who promised to pray very steadily for me and 
 for mine. By the way, as Kate was the Rev. Mother, 
 I was promptly dubbed "Uncle" — but without the 
 "Reverend." 
 
 We left San Francisco at about 4 o'clock p.m., via 
 Oakland, and intending to follow the most pic- 
 turesque route eastward that this continent affords, 
 that is, over the Wassatch, Sierra Nevada, and Rocky 
 ranges of mountains by Reno, Truckee, Ogden, Salt 
 Lake City, Newton, Topeka, Kansas, and Kansas City 
 to St. Louis and thence via Philadelphia to New 
 York. I have already described in my earlier Letters 
 the ascent of the Rockies many hundreds of miles 
 farther north along the line of the Northern Pacific 
 Railway; and I will now confine myself to what is or 
 seems to me peculiar to this route. 
 
 We found ourselves, when morning broke upon us 
 in our sleepers, not far from a small city rejoicing in 
 the name of Winnemuca and found that our engines 
 — for there were two — were bravely fighting their 
 way up the ascent which marks the great Divide of 
 the Pacific Slopes. 
 
A Month in the United States 147 
 
 Thursday, Sept. 27, 1883. 
 pROM morning to night we were speeding through 
 a country with every variety of scenery. In 
 places bleak, sterile, and unlovely, with that glazed 
 look upon the surface which indicates the presence of 
 alkaline matter and marks the unsuitability of the 
 land for agricultural purposes. In other places a 
 great combination of mountain and lake, with a new 
 revelation of wonderfully beautiful colouring in rock 
 and tree and general landscape. I say a neiv revela- 
 tion, for now the autumn tints for the first time are 
 noticeable by us. The change was marked and sud- 
 den. On the Pacific Slopes there was little evidence 
 that winter is rapidly overtaking us; but we had 
 barely passed the summit of Wassatch Mountains till 
 the winter hues were general and unmistakable. 
 Some of the colours were unlike anything with us. 
 For instance, the cottonwood tree and a species of 
 maple, which were common, had their leaves new- 
 coloured a bright yellow, which in combination with 
 all manner of tints from deep crimson to green and 
 against a background of red sandstone and limestone 
 and gypsum was striking and effective. When 
 morning came, we were far in the State of Utah — 
 the kingdom of the Latter Day or Mormon Saints. 
 At Ogden we found ourselves skirting that curious 
 physical phenomenon not yet even fully explained, a 
 great lake of salt water — briny as the Atlantic — 
 
148 A Month in the United States 
 
 many miles from the sea. It is so dense that it is said 
 that no one sinks in it; and to the same cause is at- 
 tributed the fact — for fact it is — that, while the wind 
 is sufficient to lash with fury adjoining waters, the 
 surface of the Salt Lake is calm and unruffled. 
 Finally we arrived at Salt Lake at 10 a.m. 
 
 Salt Lake City, Friday, Sept. 28, 1883. 
 " I ^HE city Is certainly picturesquely situated and 
 -*- laid out. The streets are very wide, are gener- 
 ally planted with trees, and have In many cases rivu- 
 lets running at their sides; and in the case of the prin- 
 cipal streets lead towards hills which rise from the 
 plain at some distance from the city. The buildings, 
 too, are frequently imposing and always neat, freshly 
 painted and attractive. 
 
 The population is about 25,000, and of this it is 
 not claimed by the Gentiles that they number more 
 than 5,000. In justice it Is to be said that Salt Lake 
 is a peaceable city, and, generally speaking, free from 
 crime. I believe the pblice amount to less than ten. 
 All the city officers from the Mayor (Jennings) down 
 are held without any exception, I believe, by the Mor- 
 mons; while as to the States (meaning the United 
 States) offices they are given to the Gentiles. Be- 
 tween the government of the United States and the 
 Mormons there is something like war. Congress de- 
 clines to accept Utah into the confederation of the 
 
A Month in the United States 149 
 
 States, principally If not wholly because of the polyg- 
 amlstic practices amongst the Mormons. They know 
 that, if made a State, the Governorship and all the 
 higher offices would be held by Mormons. At pres- 
 ent it remains a "Territory" merely, which leaves the 
 governing State appointments in the hands of the 
 President of the United States. The Congress has, 
 by whzt are known as the Edmunds Laws, striven In 
 earnest to put down polygamy, but hitherto with lit- 
 tle effect. The law is evaded and practically set at 
 naught. One conviction, and one only, has been ob- 
 tained, and that in the case of a Mr. Reynolds, who 
 admitted polygamy in order to test the validity, con- 
 stitutionally, of the Edmunds Law. It Is a sore point 
 with the Mormons that, notwithstanding promises to 
 the contrary. President Hayes left the convicted man 
 to work out his full period of sentence. The Mor- 
 mons further complain that the Edmunds Law Is con- 
 demnable because ex post facto — that is, that by its 
 retrospective action It makes that penal and criminal 
 which, when done, was not either. In other words, 
 they say that at best it should be directed against 
 polygamistic marriages In the future. A Mr. Can- 
 non, who had served in Congress for several years as 
 Senator — a leading Mormon — was unseated and de- 
 clared disqualified by a majority of votes In Congress 
 on the ground of polygamy. I met this Mr. Cannon 
 later at the house of the present President and 
 Prophet of the Mormon body, Mr. Taylor. Mr. 
 
150 A Month in the United States 
 
 Cannon, like Mr. Taylor, is a plain, very common- 
 place kind of person : I could discern no sign of the 
 prophet or apostle in either. Mr. Cannon is about 
 fifty-five years of age and Mr. Taylor is about sev- 
 enty-three. Mr. Taylor is a venerable-looking, grey- 
 haired man, very prosaic, free from all affectation, 
 puts on no prophetic or apostolic airs, and is thor- 
 oughly commonplace. I had hoped for the oppor- 
 tunity of some close conversation with these gentle- 
 men, but the advent of a lady visitor forbade this, and 
 I shortly after took my leave. 
 
 The faith of the Mormons negatively and posi- 
 tively may be summed up thus ; 
 
 1. They believe in the Bible, generally; but have 
 
 2. Special belief in the Revelations to their 
 prophet and founder, Joseph Smith, and to Brigham 
 Young and any subsequent prophet. These (so far) 
 are contained in the Mormon books. 
 
 3. Belief in Baptism by immersion, as washing 
 away sin, but disbelief in original sin. 
 
 4. Belief in vicarious Baptism for the dead, and 
 (I believe) also for the living. 
 
 5. Belief in the efficiency of laying on of hands. 
 Their affairs spiritual are managed by their Prophet 
 and Apostles — who look after (and that pretty 
 sharply) the temporal matters pertaining to their 
 church. 
 
 They exact, or more correctly they expect, each 
 Mormon to pay into the treasury a tithe or tenth of 
 
A Month in the United States 151 
 
 the earnings. Thus a man earning 75 dollars a 
 month pays monthly 7^ dollars, and so on. It is not 
 a payment in respect of net profits merely. Many of 
 the weak-kneed brethren have succumbed under this 
 test of their faith. Thus the proprietors of our hotel 
 were Brothers Walker, who gave up Mormonism 
 only (It is said) because the ten per cent, bore too 
 heavily upon them. There is no doubt that this tith- 
 ing brings enormous sums into the treasury and gives 
 to its controllers enormous power. Indeed there is 
 a firm belief among Gentiles and ex-Mormons that 
 the prophets and apostles grow fat upon the tithing. 
 Of the truth of this belief I cannot speak. 
 
 The tithing-house is one of the features of the 
 place. Here are not only offices for money payments, 
 but granaries, etc., for the reception of tithing in kind 
 and weighing machines for testing its accuracy. The 
 other striking Mormon buildings are the Temple, 
 built of granite, and imposing but not religious In 
 character. It is Incomplete. The Tabernacle where 
 the body habitually worship Is a curious building, in 
 shape like an inverted boat. It can seat some 4,000 
 people, and is said to be remarkable for its fine 
 acoustic properties. I met the Chief Justice (Hun- 
 ter) , the great legal functionary of the Territory, and 
 had with him an Interesting conversation. He had 
 just been delivering a forcible address to the Grand 
 Jury on the necessity of vindicating the law In the 
 matter of the Edmunds legislation ; but In private he 
 
152 A Month in the United States 
 
 did not speak hopefully of what could be done. A 
 shrewd observer afterwards remarked it wouldn't be 
 law which would break up Mormonism. He looked 
 to the spread of intelligence; to the rebellion which 
 he thinks is sure to come against the tithing, and to 
 the influence of Gentile tastes and fashions and the 
 artistic efforts of a few French modistes, to do more 
 to break up the superstition than the law will do. I 
 had a long conversation with two Mormon men, but 
 not, to my regret, with any Mormon women. I 
 should have greatly liked to converse in confidence 
 with the first or second of a series of (say) six or 
 eight wives. It is a mistake, however, to suppose 
 that polygamy is universal or anything like universal 
 amongst them. It is really only the well-to-do who 
 will be allowed to practise it, and not always, it is 
 said, even these. Gentiles tell me that the women ap- 
 pear to be the strongest advocates for this strange 
 condition, and their zeal, if it be real, is explained 
 thus: In the scheme of creation woman was a mere 
 afterthought. Of herself she is nothing, and, unless 
 she is the real wife or is sealed to man, her chances 
 of eternal glory are small. I need not point out that 
 this creed has a markedly masculine character, but 
 these poor women or many of them believe in it. The 
 women amongst the Mormons are said to be heavily 
 worked, and one explanation of polygamy here was 
 thus given: "Wages run very high, and if a man can 
 get a wife to do his cooking comfortably and ask 
 
A Month in the United States 153 
 
 no wage, and another to do his washing on the 
 same terms, and another to milk the cows and 
 make the butter, why, there's great economy in 
 polygamy." 
 
 The two men I alluded to above are a Scotchman 
 and an Englishman. The Scotchman is John Aird of 
 Kilmarnock, now nearly seventy years of age. I be- 
 lieve he is thoroughly sincere, but I think he has got a 
 bee in his bonnet. He left his Scotch wife in Scotland 
 (she wouldn't come with him), but he contributes to 
 her support, and he has married what he calls his 
 first true wife in Mormondom, and he told us his 
 Mormon wife is now urging him to marry a third 
 with a view to his greater glory in the Kingdom to 
 come. He affirms that he was instantly cured of 
 sciatica by the laying on of hands of one of the apos- 
 tles, and that on the occasion when he was baptised by 
 immersion a special miracle was wrought for a sign 
 to him. He asserted that, when he went to the Scotch 
 burn for baptism, the wind was raging and the water, 
 but that when he got into the water a calm followed, 
 whereas upon his emerging the storm began again. 
 I mildly suggested that with his head under water 
 he could not probably notice the state of wind and 
 water; but this prosaic explanation he would not have. 
 His special "fad" or mission is to get baptised for 
 the benefit of his friends. He says he has about 200 
 in his book for whom, before he dies, he intends to 
 get baptised; and included in the number is his re- 
 
154 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 calcitrant Scotch wife, who, though she takes his 
 money, he says never writes to him to acknowledge it. 
 
 The Englishman was W. T. Ayland of Birming- 
 ham. I think he was sincere, but again I thought he 
 had a slate off. He was a workingman who had mar- 
 ried a second wife — the two wives, as he expressed it, 
 "living together like sisters." He did admit on cross- 
 examination that his first wife objected to his second 
 marriage; but afterwards "she came into it" and they 
 had since got on very well together. "What recon- 
 ciled your wife to this second marriage?" I asked, 
 "Oh! religion," he promptly answered; "she knew it 
 would be for the greater glory of my second wife and 
 for my own." I do not think the man was aware he 
 was uttering stupid, beastly cant. 
 
 I asked Chief Justice Hunter, who struck me as be- 
 ing a remarkably intelligent, clear-headed man, as to 
 the nationalities of which Mormonism is made up. 
 He said principally Scandinavian, Welsh, and Eng- 
 lish. "Are there any Irish?" I asked. "Yes, a few," 
 he replied; and he referred me to James Dwyer, a 
 bookseller. I went there. He says he was born in 
 this country in Rochester, but he looked and spoke 
 very like an Irishman born in his native country. He 
 was a regular humbug, in my opinion, and I could not 
 avoid the suspicion that in his case, regard for the 
 profits, at least as much as for the prophets, actuated 
 him; but I may be doing the man an injustice. He is 
 the Mormon bookseller of the place. 
 
A Month in the United States 155 
 
 We went to a very nice theatre and saw performed 
 by the Union Square Company of New York a very 
 good piece called "Paris Flats." 
 
 Satueday, Sept. 29, 1883. 
 T T 7 E left on this morning at 1 0.30 en route through 
 * ^ the Rockies for Denver, the capital of Colo- 
 rado. I have already told you the incidents of the 
 ascent of the Rockies when going from east to west 
 by the Northern Pacific and I will not therefore dwell 
 on this in detail. 
 
 The line of railway is probably the most daring 
 ever laid out by an enterprising engineer. Its gradi- 
 ents are in places very steep, and its curves the sharp- 
 est by far I ever saw. I am not exaggerating when 
 I say that, standing on the steps of the train platform, 
 which commands a view forward and backward, I 
 have frequently lost the engine round one curve and 
 the tail of the train round another. Add to this the 
 fact that the train runs on the narrow gauge, and you 
 will understand that there were some "jumpy" ele- 
 ments about our journey. But all the same a glori- 
 ously picturesque line it is. Marshall's Pass, the sum- 
 mit point the train attains in the Rockies, is 10,700 
 feet above the level of the sea; and if you will just 
 look at the height of the highest mountain in Ireland, 
 you will have some Idea of what these figures mean. 
 The view from it was very fine. The day was clear. 
 
156 A Month in the United States 
 
 and below us lay to the east what seemed an Inter- 
 minable succession of mountains, varied here and 
 there by lake and plain and forest. Early as it is in 
 the autumn, the railway men were busy at work in re- 
 pairing and building up the snow-sheds, for the snow- 
 fall is here at times so enormous as to wholly block 
 the line if unprotected. For miles we passed through 
 wooden tunnels (with spaces here and there) built 
 up with great strength. The snowfall had helped 
 to blight whole miles of young forest trees 
 which had bent and given way under their snowy 
 burthen. 
 
 As we were descending from the summit towards 
 the east, a startling incident occurred. A great 
 boulder came tumbling down the hillside, just clear 
 of the engine and tender, and, blocking the wheels 
 of one of the passenger cars, upset it (full of passen- 
 gers) in an instant. But the engineer had already 
 seen the danger, and, before the succeeding cars could 
 run into the overthrown one, the brakes had acted and 
 we were brought to a standstill almost instantane- 
 ously. The men and women and little ones had to 
 be lifted through the window; for, you must under- 
 stand, the doors of the American railway cars are all 
 at the ends and none of them at the sides. Several 
 men and women were more or less badly hurt and 
 shaken, but no life was lost and no limb broken. Two 
 young ladies of the theatrical party (who were jour- 
 neying home to New York) exerted themselves ad- 
 
A Month in the United States 157 
 
 mirably in looking after the invalids: no Sisters of 
 Mercy could have done better. 
 
 In about two hours' time we were again careering 
 downhill and uphill and round sharp curves, just as if 
 nothing had happened. The most striking sight on 
 our journey we had yet to see — by far the most strik- 
 ing — namely the Grand Caiion, 
 
 It was twilight when we first entered it; and if this 
 prevented our seeing it with the same close accuracy, 
 it undoubtedly left more to the imagination. It was 
 startling. For several miles the train, following the 
 line of the Arkansas River, winds in and out and 
 round and about a long series of jutting, perpendic- 
 ular rocks such as I have never before seen to any- 
 thing like the same extent. There were no slopes with 
 vegetation; no patches of green; all was rock and 
 nothing but rock rising wall-like on each side of the 
 river, side by side with which and only a few feet 
 above which our train ran. The effect was indeed 
 startling. Looking up as it were from this cleft in 
 the rocks, we saw the stars above our heads — looking 
 back, we did not see the opening through which we had 
 come, for we had just sharply rounded a curve — look- 
 ing forward, there was no opening for us out apparent. 
 We seemed completely hemmed in, and yet we Vv^ere 
 rattling along at the rate of about 25 miles an hour. 
 The physical conformation of the place is remark- 
 able. It looked literally as if the water had through 
 the course of ages worn out this way for itself in the 
 
158 A Month in the United States 
 
 rocks, deepening it more and more the more it ran. 
 I do not know the height of the rocks, but in places 
 certainly several hundred feet in height; while the 
 Caiion or Gorge was not in width apparently more 
 than fifty to seventy feet. 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 30, 1883. 
 O o we went on, on, through the Sunday — no church 
 '^ for us to-day — past Montrose, Gunnison, and 
 Pueblo, past Colorado Springs and on towards 
 Denver. 
 
 From Pueblo towards Denver was out of our route 
 to the east. I made the detour in order to try and 
 see WiHiam Dillon, formerly at the Irish Bar and 
 brother of John Dillon. You will recollect his din- 
 ing with us in Harley St. He is in partnership with 
 a man named Ratcliffe in a cattle ranch at Sedalia or 
 rather near Sedalia, a little town twenty-five miles 
 south and short of Denver. I thought George 
 Fottrell and Mrs. Fottrell would like to hear about 
 him, and I was anxious to see him on my own account. 
 Martin and Darling stopped at Colorado Springs, 
 but I went on to Sedalia. The train ought to have 
 been at Sedalia at 7 o'clock; it was not there, in fact, 
 till I o'clock on Monday morning — i A.M. I mean. 
 Cold and perished I arrived at Sedalia and found not 
 only William Dillon and his partner, Mr. Ratcliffe, 
 
A Alonth in the United States 159 
 
 awaiting me, but also Mr. Thomas Fottrell, formerly 
 in the Hibernian Bank, Monaghan — the brother of 
 Mrs. Power. 
 
 Monday, October i, 1883. 
 ^~\ NE A.M. to-day, as I have already said, found me 
 ^-^ at Sedalia ; a few minutes sufficed to find us all, 
 i.e., Dillon, Ratcliffe, and myself (for Fottrell was 
 starting next morning by early train) in Mr. Rat- 
 cliffe's two-horse buggy, and rattling away under the 
 light of the stars to our destination nine miles oft — 
 Spring's Ranch. 
 
 Here a cheery sight awaited us. Mrs. Ratcliffe had 
 a bright log-fire burning and an appetising supper 
 ready, after discussing which I promptly tumbled 
 Into bed, for I had only one day here (this very Mon- 
 day) and I wanted to make the most of it. 
 
 Once for all let me say I was the guest of Mrs. Rat- 
 cliffe, and if her treatment of me was anything like 
 what one may ordinarily expect in ranch life — then 
 ranch life is not difficult to put up with. 
 
 Dillon looked remarkably well and stronger, 
 broader-shouldered and in every way bigger than I 
 expected to find him. He came out three years ago 
 for his health, and had the good luck to be taken as 
 boarder by Mr. Ratcliffe. Last June twelve-month 
 (that is, June, 1882) he may fairly be said to have 
 entered upon ranch life on his own account. Mr. R. 
 
i6o A Month in the United States 
 
 has his own ranch, but they (D. and he) have taken 
 a ranch which they work in partnership. So far the 
 experiment seems to have answered wonderfully well, 
 not only as to health, but also as to profits — consider- 
 ing that their ranching is not on a very large scale. 
 Dillon has his own house and establishment on the 
 partnership ranch, quite good enough for bachelor 
 quarters, but not quite up to the mark of Mrs. Rat- 
 cliffe's comfortable, not to say, luxurious quarters. 
 Dillon's household retinue consists of one woman 
 (from Sligo, I think) named Doyle, who is cook and 
 housekeeper and maid of all work. Doyle is a trusty 
 soul, and I believe devoted to her master, but his prin- 
 cipal amusement consists in abusing the ways and 
 manners of the New and asserting the marked superi- 
 ority of the ways and manners of the "Ould Coun- 
 thry." I must here break off or I'll have no fair 
 chance of being read. I will give a sketch of this 
 beautiful, bracing place in my next. 
 
 Sedalia, Monday, Oct. i, 1883 {continued) . 
 A LTHOUGH it was quite 3 o'clock when we got to 
 •^^^ bed, we were up again before 8 o'clock and in 
 the saddle before 9.30 o'clock. I was bound to re- 
 join Martin on Tuesday, and was therefore resolved 
 upon making the most of my day. 
 
 By the way, the saddles in the northern and also in 
 the western parts of this continent (I cannot yet speak 
 
A Month in the United States i6i 
 
 of the east) are very different from ours, and the seat 
 of the rider very different also. The saddles here 
 offer much greater support to the rider, and in this re- 
 spect they more closely resemble the cavalry and 
 police saddles at home; but they are much more elab- 
 orate than these. In front, instead of our pommel, 
 is a perpendicular arm not without its advantages as 
 a support but principally useful as a means of attach- 
 ing conveniently the lasso or any less interesting rope, 
 any small baggage, etc., while behind, the saddle rises 
 abruptly, fixing the seat, so to speak, securely. In 
 fact, the saddle is such as to compel what we know in 
 England as the straight or military seat. I have now 
 ridden a good deal in the north and west in this sad- 
 dle, and like it greatly. The girthing arrangements 
 are much more elaborate than with us, and the stirrup 
 leathers at first sight seem unnecessarily cumbersome 
 until it is explained that they are devised to protect 
 the feet and in great measure the legs riding through 
 long grass and in brushwood. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the delicious character of 
 the morning. The sun was bright, the air clear, crisp, 
 and bracing, and the sky was wholly blue — that blue 
 which I understand to be meant by an Italian sky. 
 It v/as perfectly charming in its exhilarating effects 
 
 — the very perfection of a climate. D assured 
 
 me this was the normal condition of things — some 
 very sharp weather in winter and even in summer, but 
 never lasting very long and always recurrence to that 
 
1 62 A Mofith in the United States 
 
 which to-day we experienced. The country itself is 
 fairly attractive. The Ratcliffe-Dillon ranch is situ- 
 ated along a range of foothills (foothills to the 
 Rockies) and it is higher above the sea than the high- 
 est Irish mountain, namely, it is over 6,000 feet. It 
 is especially well-watered, it is fairly wooded, and the 
 character of the grass is exceptionally good. I am 
 quite learned in the grasses here. They are chiefly 
 three kinds : the wire grass, the gramma or grammar 
 grass (orthography doubtful), and the blue grass or 
 blue stem grass. The last is by far the finest and most 
 nutritious, and in this the Spring's ranch largely 
 abounds. Unlike the grasses with us, which, unless 
 cut and dried, cannot be saved in stacks, but left stand- 
 ing would in our moist climate decompose, the Colo- 
 rado grass saves itself on its stem — that is, It dries 
 as it stands and so is saved by the climate for the win- 
 ter's use of the cattle, or it may be cut and stacked on 
 the same day ! This, I need hardly say, is owing to 
 the dryness of the atmosphere. This dryness of the 
 atmosphere is the difficulty, the only difficulty, in 
 Colorado. They have little rain and can do little or 
 nothing in the way of cultivation unless they can get 
 water for irrigation. The result is that a soil capable, 
 with irrigation, of producing anything is in great part 
 useless and unproductive. The further result is that 
 every little creek or brook, nay, even every little nat- 
 ural spring that bubbles up from the ground, is 
 eagerly sought, and the land in which it is situated 
 
A Month in the United States 163 
 
 pre-empted or somehow or other got hold of. In 
 these cases its use Is not with reference to cultivation, 
 but to provide the needed watering-place for cattle. 
 
 The breed of cattle seems good; and good speci- 
 mens of the English Durham and Hereford breeds 
 have been Introduced with a view of still further im- 
 proving it. For a wide district comprising SedaHa, 
 Castle Rock, etc., Denver is the cattle market. Den- 
 ver Is the capital of the State and has risen to be a city 
 of 90,000 inhabitants, risen indeed all too rapidly, 
 for a reaction has followed the Denver "boom" and 
 land Is not now nearly so valuable as it was two or 
 three years ago. So far as I can see, America must 
 have her booms. A boom will fetch a tradesman from 
 San Francisco to Portland In Oregon on the chance 
 of getting four dollars a day wage Instead of three 
 dollars at home. It will bring the trader from east to 
 extreme west in the hope of finding himself taking 
 part in the building up of a new and great city. The 
 other day at Garrison on the Rio Grande, I saw a 
 broad-shouldered chap at the depot with his hands in 
 his pockets and the unmistakable look of the idling 
 loafer about him. 
 
 "What are you doing here?" 
 
 "Waiting for the boom." 
 
 "What boom?" 
 
 "The Garrison boom, I guess." 
 
 "What will that do for you?" 
 
 "I'm a bricklayer, and the boom means $5 a day." 
 
164 A Month in the United States 
 
 "What can you get now?" 
 
 "Maybe $3!, anyway $3, but I am not going to 
 work for that as long as I've a dollar in my pocket." 
 
 "Where did you come from?" 
 
 "I came from the State of Maine at the first, but 
 I've been after half a dozen booms since then. I 
 came last from San Francisco." 
 
 "Why did you leave San Francisco? Is work short 
 there?" 
 
 "Not a bit of It, but I tell you I come after the 
 boom. Besides, there are too many Chinamen there. 
 I think I'll go to Canada. They tell me there's few 
 of them there." 
 
 "Have booms paid you?" 
 
 "Well, not much. I have not always been in time, 
 and, like this place, I am too soon it seems." 
 
 This conversation Is almost literally given, and I 
 give it because It Is one out of many proofs which 
 have come under my eyes of the complete unfixedness 
 of the working population. They seem to have no 
 attachment to localities except so far as localities offer 
 them wage inducements. No doubt this spirit more 
 than anything will tend over this great wide Con- 
 tinent to level or approximate to levelling the wage 
 market. But this restlessness or unfixedness is not, as 
 I have said, confined to the working class In the or- 
 dinary acceptation of that term. It extends so far as 
 I can judge to all classes — tradesmen, miners, mer- 
 chants, engineers, farmers, lawyers. The farmers, 
 
A Month in the United States 165 
 
 one would think, are particularly fixed to localities. 
 Far from it. In Canada, in the Northwest States, 
 in the southwest States, I have again and again come 
 across persons who, having tried farming or stock- 
 raising in one or two localities and thought they could 
 better themselves elsewhere, have without compunc- 
 tion packed up or "boxed up " their household gods 
 and turned their backs upon the fields and brooks and 
 hills upon which their young eyes had probably first 
 rested. No one can truly say the Americans are senti- 
 mental. I could mention places where there is per- 
 haps a superfluity of sentimentalism. 
 
 The young men, also, in the eastern States of New 
 England have thoroughly taken to heart the advice of 
 old Horace Greeley. "Go West, young man, go 
 West." To such an extent have they migrated west- 
 ward that I am assured the female population in the 
 New England States is considerably in excess of the 
 male population. 
 
 It is clear that this pushing, energetic, adventurous 
 restlessness, whatever else may be said for it, is cal- 
 culated greatly to help and has greatly helped the 
 spread of population and settlement throughout the 
 land. I see I've diverged a good deal from the 
 Spring's Cattle Ranch. 
 
 It is in extent about 1,400 acres, but each enclosed 
 ranch is supplemented by the right — open equally to 
 all — to graze upon the unsettled Government lands. 
 These are popularly known as "Uncle Sam's" lands. 
 
1 66 A Month in the United States 
 
 This right is, of course, of very high importance, but 
 one which year by year has a more limited area to op- 
 erate upon, as the Government lands are sold. How- 
 ever, as the land with water on it (as I have before 
 explained) is to a great extent bought up, the induce- 
 ments to settle on the remainder are yearly diminish- 
 ing, unless indeed it is found that the artesian well 
 system can generally be applied with success through- 
 out the States. This is the great question which is 
 agitating Colorado just now. At Denver the artesian 
 wells are supplying the towns, and scientists in this 
 matter affirm that no difficulty exists in bringing them 
 to operation in the rural districts. If so, the question 
 of water for cattle-drinking is solved; but that wider 
 question of water to meet the needs of the thirsty 
 earth for purposes of agriculture will be still unsettled. 
 
 We rode through and round the ranch, and 
 through and round several other ranches, including 
 one held by Peter Brennan, an Armagh man, and one 
 of the earliest settlers in the place. We lunched by 
 the side of a running brook, from which we slaked our 
 thirst and promptly disposed of Mrs. R.'s excellent 
 sandwiches. 
 
 The close of evening found us near Mr. R.'s house, 
 and after an exceedingly agreeable ride I rather re- 
 luctantly gave up the bridle of my little mare, 
 "Peggy," who carried me merrily and well during the 
 day. A game of poker, at which I was badly worsted 
 by the old settler, finished my day's doings, and by 
 
A Month in the United States 167 
 
 9.30 I was enjoying profoundly the healthy sleep of 
 a healthily-tired man. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct. 2, 1883. 
 XT EAR the ranch, at the south end of it, is a place 
 ^ ^ sometimes called Parry's Park (from the early 
 owner's name) and sometimes Pleasant Park. It is 
 one of the most picturesque spots I have seen. It is 
 nearly surrounded with the well-wooded foothills, 
 from which several canons open into it, with creeks or 
 brooks which serve useful as well as beautifying pur- 
 poses. But the great attraction of the place does not 
 lie in these. As you approach the spot, you see at 
 some distance what clearly appear to be the ruined 
 walls of an ancient and even an important town. The 
 illusion is perfect. There the remains of an old cas- 
 tle, here what look like the trees of a terrace of 
 houses. What is it, then? Simply that nature in 
 some very fantastic mood had thrown the sandstone 
 rocks into all manner of odd shapes and (if one may 
 say so) attitudes. As we approached nearer and could 
 single out the rocks, even I, unimaginative person 
 that I am, could discover likenesses to all manner of 
 beasts and to some human beings also. I will not 
 specify the latter, but there were some remarkable 
 politicians amongst them. Taken as a whole, the 
 place was most attractive, and it only needs an enter- 
 prising doctor to discover merits in the water, and a 
 friendly editor to publish them, and its real true 
 
1 68 A Month in the United States 
 
 claims as a health resort could not fail to attract the 
 teeming population of Denver in its holidays. I con- 
 fess, however, if I were ranching here, I should 
 rather have the place as it is. 
 
 We were again up betimes this (Tuesday) morn- 
 ing, for I had to catch the early train south to Colo- 
 rado Springs at Castle Rock, and the drive to Castle 
 Rock is nine miles. 
 
 On the way I had several chapters of Mr. R.'s very 
 interesting experiences. 
 
 His own story (which he did not tell) is romantic 
 and is mixed up with his early settlement in the north- 
 west. 
 
 He is a Derbyshire man, and against the wishes of 
 some at least of her relations he wooed his present 
 wife, and finally, after the manner of Lord Eldon, 
 John Mitchel, and various other distinguished per- 
 sons at various times, he eloped with her. 
 
 Soon after he was obliged to come to America with 
 a view to obtaining a home and settlement for his 
 wife. Her friends took advantage of his absence, 
 kept his letters from her, and for several years he was 
 ignorant whether she lived or was dead. He con- 
 tinued writing, and, probably home vigilance having 
 lulled, one of his letters after several years reached 
 his wife, and she answered it as a wife should. 
 Straightway he returned to England, reclaimed her, 
 and brought her to Colorado. They have a fine fam- 
 ily of three daughters and one son, all born on Ameri- 
 
A Month in the United States 169 
 
 can soil. The eldest daughter reached seventeen 
 years yesterday. They all work, from the mother to 
 the youngest of them, and are bright and active. 
 
 Mr. R.'s experiences of this country, and especially 
 of Colorado State, would make a large and interest- 
 ing novel. He has driven teams between St. Louis 
 and Denver, and he has driven cattle thousands of 
 miles south and west at a time when the Indians were 
 a living terror to the white man, and when you went 
 about very much with your life in your hand. He 
 recollects when the buffalo herd fed on the Ratcliffe- 
 Dillon ranch, when wolves, including the angry grey 
 wolf, were frequently to be seen, and the bear was 
 not an infrequent visitor. Later, too, in more settled 
 times, he recollects when the settlers used to march 
 together to perform any important acts of husbandry, 
 such as reaping, threshing, and even cow-milking, for 
 purposes of mutual defence against the Indian. 
 
 The change is certainly very wonderful in a period 
 of about thirty years, or even less. 
 
 "Does any one ever die here?" I asked, taking a 
 long draught of the fresh morning air. 
 
 "Very few," answered Mr. R. "They had to 
 shoot a man a little further west to give their ceme- 
 tery a start; and here," he said, pointing to Castle 
 Rock, "they had to hang a man to begin business. 
 That's true." 
 
 Later on he pointed out to me, in the neglected 
 corner of the graveyard, the spot where they had 
 
lyo A Mojith in the United States 
 
 buried a thieving Mexican whom they had caught 
 red-handed kilhng a sheep, and whom they promptly 
 strung up to the first convenient bough. 
 
 Meanwhile we had mounted the hill which divides 
 Sedalia and Castle Rock. The Sedalia foothills were 
 sinking at our feet, and behind them was rising the 
 nobler range, snow-topped, of the higher Rockies, 
 while, away to the south. Pike's Peak was just lifting 
 his venerable head within reach of the morning sun. 
 Pike's Peak, be It known. Is considerably higher than 
 Mount Baker (see ante) and somewhat higher than 
 Tacoma or Rainier, but It does not look as high or as 
 grand as either of these. The principal reasons are: 
 first, that we are looking at this mountain already at 
 an elevation of over 6,000 feet, and second, that it 
 is surrounded on all sides by a chain of hills, of which 
 it is only one and the greatest. 
 
 Castle Rock is the chief town of Douglas County; 
 and it is here that the Land Registry is kept. Its cus- 
 todian Is a Mr. Jones, from the south of Ireland, who 
 fills the office of Clerk of the County. On our way to 
 Castle Rock I had a good view of an extensive range 
 of "Uncle Sam's Land," and on which the cattle of 
 many men were feeding, each man's cattle marked 
 with his particular and registered brand. They are 
 "rounded up" or gathered In when wanted for market 
 or for shelter In winter or for fattening purposes at 
 the homesteads. 
 
 After bidding my kind friends good-bye I was soon 
 
A Month in the United States 171 
 
 rattling away south (over the same ground I had 
 travelled on Sunday night) to Colorado Springs. 
 
 On the way I met Mr. Henry Lucy of the Daily 
 News, travelling with his wife and intending to stay 
 the night at the Springs. They are on their way for 
 a five months' tour to Japan and home by India and 
 Eastern Europe. 
 
 Colorado Springs is a very pretty place, beautifully 
 laid out and planted with trees in all directions and 
 with quite a number of handsome buildings; but the 
 springs are a delusion. These are at Manitou, some 
 four miles off, close at the foot of Pike's Peak. We 
 drove down there later in the day. The sulphur and 
 soda springs, the latter coming up freshly aerated 
 from the earth, are very curious. 
 
 On the top of Pike's Peak is a Government ob- 
 servatory in vv'hich a scientist is always stationed, 
 night and day, summer and winter, for the purposes 
 of observation. It is indeed from the observations 
 here made, and similar data gathered in a like way, 
 that the American weather predictions, now so fa- 
 mous, are compiled. The service is so severe that no 
 man remains longer on the Peak than a year; and 
 that is long enough, too, when it is remembered that 
 for many weeks at a time it is often impossible to 
 maintain any carrying or directly human communica- 
 tion with the world below. I note here a curious fact 
 touching the highly rarefied condition of the air a-top. 
 A fierce wind will be blowing there which, if met be- 
 
172 A Month in the United States 
 
 low, would blow you from your legs, and yet (owing 
 to its less density on the high mountain peak) is com- 
 paratively little felt. 
 
 Later in the evening I rejoined Martin and Dar- 
 ling, and with them went still away south as far as 
 Pueblo, whence we resume our easterly route via Kan- 
 sas and Ohio States, east. 
 
 Wednesday, Oct. 3, 1883. 
 
 A ROUGHISH road and a bad place in the Pullman 
 -^■^ sleeper gave us but an indifferent night's rest, 
 and we were not sorry when an early call for break- 
 fast at Newtown in Kansas claimed attention, though 
 the meal itself was poor enough. On we go on our 
 way to St. Louis (our first resting-place), dining at 
 Topeka (still in Kansas) and finally reaching Kansas 
 City, which is situated on the Kansas River, the divid- 
 ing line between Kansas and Missouri States. 
 
 • There is a marked difference between these adjoin- 
 ing States, Colorado and Kansas. The former is 
 principally a stock-raising State, the latter is every 
 day becoming more and more a cultivated agricul- 
 tural State. Kansas seems remarkably rich in its soil, 
 and a great rush of migration has lately set towards 
 it. It has no doubt a great future. 
 
 We dined at Topeka, and night found us in our 
 sleeper, speeding away through the great State of 
 Missouri, wherein we reached St. Louis at about 
 7.30 A.M. 
 
A Month in the United States 173 
 
 St. Louis, Thursday, Oct. 4, 1883. 
 T "^ 7e have looked forward with great expectation 
 ^ ^ to our visit here, for besides the ordinary at- 
 tractions of the great city — the sixth in importance in 
 the United States — the State annual fair was in 
 progress. 
 
 Alas for the vanity of all human desires ! We were 
 long since warned that all was not as it should be for 
 the sightseer in the matter of weather. Ever since 
 we left the State of Colorado there has been a marked 
 change and for the worse. There all was bright, dry, 
 cheery, and genial, though bracing and even chilly. 
 But through Kansas and Missouri we've been re- 
 minded forcibly of that half damp, half foggy, 
 wholly cheerless weather, with which we are pretty 
 well acquainted in England and in Ireland. Here at 
 St. Louis nothing could be worse. The rain was rap- 
 idly falling, the air muggy and well charged with 
 "smuts," and the draggled finery of the shops and 
 public buildings and of the people presented a very 
 melancholy and disheartening spectacle. We re- 
 solved to go to-night to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, on 
 our way to Washington via Harrisburgh. 
 
 Meanwhile I found that my good friend, Mr. 
 Frank Thomson of Philadelphia, vice-president of 
 the Pennsylvania Railroad Company, had asked 
 Col. Hill, the resident general superintendent of the 
 company at St. Louis, to look after us. 
 
174 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 Under his escortage and in his carriage we were 
 enabled to see a great deal in a short time. St. Louis' 
 chief wonder is the great bridge across the Missis- 
 sippi, to which I here again raise my hat — built by 
 Mr. Eads, who is the engineer of the Panama or 
 Darien Canal. It is an enormous structure, so built 
 that on one floor or level the public carriages and traf- 
 fic pass, and on another level above the railways hav- 
 ing depots in the town pass. On one side of the river 
 is the State of Illinois, while on the other — the city 
 side — is the State of Missouri. Some idea of the 
 magnitude and difficulty of the work will be gathered 
 when it is recollected that the width of the river at 
 this point is more than half a mile; and that to get se- 
 cure rock on which to build the piers the architect was 
 obliged to sink as much as ninety feet below the mud 
 bed of the river. To my mind the great feature of 
 the place is the river, which has only just permanently 
 received the name of the Mississippi, which it re- 
 tains until it loses itself in the Gulf of Mexico at New 
 Orleans. A few miles north of St. Louis the great 
 rivers, the Missouri and the Mississippi, join forces, 
 and thenceforth the Missouri is no longer known; it 
 is merged in the Mississippi. Farther on, in the State 
 of Ohio, these mighty waters gain a further contin- 
 gent in the Ohio River, which in Its turn was made 
 up of the rivers Alleghany and Monongahela, which 
 are confluent at Pittsburgh. 
 
 St. Louis is a very fine city, and full of fine build- 
 
A Month hi the United States 175 
 
 ings — the Courthouse, the Washington University, 
 the St. Louis University (Jesuit), and several of the 
 churches being amongst the finest. The mention of 
 the Jesuit college suggests to me to say that there is 
 no city in the United States in which there is a finer or 
 more efficient set of religious and charitable institu- 
 tions in connection with Catholicism than in St. Louis. 
 
 As its name Implies, St. Louis was founded by 
 French settlers, as a trading station in 1762, some of 
 whom came up river from New Orleans and some, it 
 is said, down river from Canada. France had then 
 important territory south. The French can now 
 hardly be said to form an independent element in the 
 population, but there is a part of the city which still 
 bears the name of French Town. From St. Louis you 
 can go south to New Orleans by river-boat; and If 
 only time permitted (it takes four days) I should be 
 delighted to make the trip. It is, I am told, most 
 agreeable, especially at this season if you can secure 
 dry weather. 
 
 In company with Colonel Hill we visited the Fair, 
 which consists of an exhibition of the products of all 
 kinds. In crops, In manufactures, and in inventions, of 
 the State. There are besides prizes for the best 
 horses, mules, geese, fowls, etc. 
 
 The focus point of the people (whom I was most 
 anxious to see) was the amphitheatre — a lightly con- 
 structed building capable of seating 40,000, and 
 which to-day, notwithstanding the bad weather, con- 
 
176 A Month in the United States 
 
 tained not fewer than 30,000. As I have before re- 
 marked of other American crowds, so I remark, of 
 this. All were orderly, though noisy, and they were 
 cheery and good-tempered. I saw nothing approach- 
 ing a row in any part, and police were not obtrusively 
 visible. I feel sure we could not gather such a crowd 
 in Ireland with like results. Again no sign of in- 
 sobriety in the crowd, though there is always lots of 
 custom certainly for the drinking saloons. But what 
 most astonishes me the more I see of the country is 
 the absence of all signs of poverty on the surface. I 
 say on the surface, because I know that there are, and 
 it is inevitable that there should be, some destitutes 
 in such an enormous community; but everywhere one 
 sees crowds, and always well clad and apparently well 
 fed. I have only once been solicited in the United 
 States by a beggar, and he was a man with a maimed 
 hand. 
 
 The preparations for the Trades' procession, and 
 especially for the illumination of the city, were of a 
 most elaborate description; but owing to the wretched 
 weather both procession and illumination were post- 
 poned. 
 
 We started for Pittsburgh at 7 o'clock P.M., and 
 through the night were travelling at a good pace 
 through the States of Illinois and Indiana, past the 
 towns of Vandalia, Indianapolis, and Effingham, until 
 finally at 7.40 A.M. we stopped for breakfast at Rich- 
 mond in Indiana State. 
 
A Month in the United States 177 
 
 Friday, Oct. 5, 1883. 
 {En route for Pittsburgh) 
 /^^N we go again after breakfast through Indiana 
 ^^ State and through the State of Ohio, past the 
 cities of Piqua, Urbana, Columbus (where we dined 
 at I P.M.), Newark, and finally we reached Pitts- 
 burgh at about 7,30 p.m. 
 
 Unhappily the rainy weather continued. The at- 
 mosphere was heavy and foggy; and altogether it 
 would be difficult to imagine a greater change in 
 climate and temperature than we have witnessed in 
 the last two days. Nor is the change confined to the 
 climate. Not only is the country looking more and 
 more cultivated, and more and more peopled, but on 
 all sides are signs of manufacturing industry of vari- 
 ous kinds working at a high pressure. The country is 
 rich in coal and in iron ore, and along our line we 
 see the fierce fires of the blast smelting furnaces, of 
 the rolling mills, and of the brick factories. 
 
 Pittsburgh itself is a great manufacturing city, and, 
 like many of our English towns of the like order, 
 great natural beauty has been defaced by the hand of 
 material civilisation. It is situated on two picturesque 
 rivers, the Monongahela and the Alleghany, which 
 here, as I have earlier said, coalesce and form the 
 Ohio River. Beyond the Monongahela the ground 
 rises abruptly to the height of several hundred feet, 
 the streets rising in terrace above terrace and being 
 
lyS A Month in the United States 
 
 approached from the lower levels not only by sloping 
 inclines but by elevators on the principle (hydraulic, 
 I think) of those at Scarborough, 
 
 As we walked over the bridge from the Alleghany 
 to the Monongahela side last night, the scene was 
 very striking. The river is here very wide, but not 
 deep ; and in the darkness of the night the fires which 
 were close to the river's edge seemed to flare up from 
 the river itself and to be continued high up in the air 
 — really along the dark hillside. We met railway 
 trains of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company career- 
 ing through the streets in all directions in a way quite 
 startling, to one used to the careful ways, in this re- 
 gard, of the old country. On they went across and 
 along thoroughfares, and crowded thoroughfares, 
 too, and yet (strange to say) accidents are, I learn, 
 not at all common. 
 
 At Pittsburgh a pleasant surprise awaited us. Mr. 
 Frank Thomson had sent on his private car from 
 Philadelphia in charge of his man, Joe Green, who 
 stood grinning a kindly welcome to us on our arrival. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the comfort of this car; we 
 have nothing in England to which I could refer you 
 for a parallel. Sitting-room and library commanding 
 a fine and unbroken view of the country, large dining- 
 room, comfortable bedrooms and excellent kitchen 
 cooking arrangements over which (as I afterwards 
 found) Joe Green presides with excellent results. Our 
 
A Month in the United States 179 
 
 car was backing into a siding where we were to- 
 morrow morning (Saturday) to be hooked to 
 the end of the 8 o'clock train and comfortably 
 taken to Washington, and on to Harrisburg and Balti- 
 moie. 
 
 But before morning comes the night, and such a 
 night 1 As we started early, Joe thought we had bet- 
 ter sleep in our luxurious car, and so we went to bed, 
 but not to sleep ! Anything more awful than the hid- 
 eous babel of sound which reached my ears in the 
 siding you cannot imagine. Bang-bang-clang-clang- 
 shriek-shriek — all the night through. But for 
 the fact that we had had two bad nights' rest, and at 
 the same time two very hard days' work I do not 
 think I could have closed my eyes in unconsciousness, 
 not for a moment. As it was, I did get a little sleep, 
 but so hideously broken in upon that it brought little 
 rest. Never again, even in the most luxurious of cars, 
 shall I pass another night in the siding at the railway 
 depot of a bustling American town — no, not if I 
 know it. 
 
 I break off here. I must reserve for my next 
 despatch the incidents of, in many respects, the 
 most interesting journey I have yet had, viz, : 
 from Pittsburgh through the Alleghany Moun- 
 tains and along the Taranita Valley via Altoona, 
 Tyrone, Harrisburg, and Baltimore to Wash^ 
 Ington. 
 
l8o A Month in the United States 
 
 Saturday, Oct. 6, 1883. 
 {En route Pittsburgh to Washington) 
 
 I WAS glad when the morning broke bright and 
 promising. A night of grave discomfort was 
 passed, and a day full of hopeful anticipation begun. 
 Our car was luxurious, the weather promised well, 
 and we knew that the journey across the Alleghanies 
 and along and over noble river after noble river in 
 quick succession was considered generally as covering 
 about the finest scenery on the eastern part of this 
 continent. Well, the scenery deserved to the full its 
 high character, but unhappily it was very soon appar- 
 ent that our weather-luck was about to desert us. The 
 clouds gathered rapidly and hung sulkily along the 
 hill slopes; and before we had traversed many 
 miles it was but too plain we were in for a bad 
 day, and the rain was falling rapidly. It was a 
 great pity. Even the murky atmosphere could not 
 hide from us the singular beauty of the country; 
 but the beauty was of that kind which to be seen 
 at its best required warmth and light and plenty of 
 these. 
 
 Generally it may be said that the scenery was of 
 the rich, cultivated, comfortable kind — although here 
 and there (as in the ascent and descent of the Alle- 
 ghany chain) it was striking. We are in the great 
 State of Pennsylvania — by far the most important 
 State in point of manufacturing industries, such as 
 
A Month in the United States i8i 
 
 coal and other ores, and also the seat of great and 
 successful agriculture. 
 
 In very many respects I was from time to time re- 
 minded of bits of English landscape; but here there 
 was that wonderful brilliancy of autumn leaf-tints 
 which England can make no pretence at equalling. In 
 point of population, also, it seemed comparable with 
 the counties through which say the London and 
 Northwestern Railway with us runs. Again this sug- 
 gests a further point of resemblance. The Pennsyl- 
 vania Railroad is incomparably the best built and 
 maintained and equipped railroad in the United 
 States. Everywhere are the signs of careful, punc- 
 tilious management, and I very much doubt whether 
 any of the great railways of the Old World are in any 
 respect better built or ballasted or managed than the 
 Pennsylvania system here. 
 
 On all sides were apparent the presence of great in- 
 dustries — the freight-trains laden with grain, and coal 
 and iron ore and manufactured products in iron. And 
 from time to time, as we rolled along at express speed, 
 we sighted now the coal-pit, now the smelting fur- 
 nace, now the rolling mills, now the brick kilns, and 
 so forth. They say that further south (say in Ala- 
 bama) they can produce iron at considerably cheaper 
 rates than in Pennsylvania, and it may be so. So far 
 as I can see, Pennsylvania has a secure future, even 
 if part of its industry were removed elsewhere; and 
 even this is a remote danger, for a trade once "lo- 
 
1 82 A Month in the United States 
 
 cated" is slow to move, and if to-morrow free-trade 
 were to become the popular cry at the hustings, 
 Pennsylvanian capital and energy would find a fresh 
 and no doubt profitable outlet before the absence of 
 protection could be seriously felt. As regards for- 
 midable competition from the south, I believe that is 
 coming, but the conditions of labour and the condi- 
 tions relatively of capital and labour are there so un- 
 satisfactory as to make this, too, no more than a very 
 remote danger. 
 
 Starting about 8.30 A.M. we found ourselves at 
 noon beside the Conemaugh River — a tributary, too, 
 of the Ohio — and beginning the ascent of the Alle- 
 ghany Mountains, the last we surmount on our jour- 
 ney eastward. I am not going to prose you with an 
 account in detail of this ascent. It possessed no fea- 
 tures of grandeur at all comparable with the passage 
 of the Rockies in the State of Montana north, or in 
 the State of Colorado south; but it had an Interest pe-^ 
 culiarly its own. The slopes have a refined, culti- 
 vated, civilised, tame look about them which, al- 
 though not of the highest order of scenery, is all the 
 same pleasant to the eye and agreeably suggestive. 
 Besides all this the glorious tints of autumn had in- 
 vested the woods on the hillside with a gorgeousness 
 quite novel to me. Still the next day was not favour- 
 able to seeing this at its best, although I confess to be- 
 ing charmed with it in spite of the descending rain 
 which subdued its brilliancy. The Horseshoe ascent 
 
A Month in the United States 183 
 
 Is famous in American railway photography and in- 
 deed deserves to be. For a distance of about twelve 
 miles we are making an ascent averaging about 106 
 feet to the mile until we reach Gallitzin (I think), 
 where a lengthy tunnel reminds one of Rugby tunnel 
 or that between Manchester and Doncaster on (I be- 
 lieve) the Midland Route. I mention this tunnel to 
 note the fact that here very much less tunnelling is 
 done than with us. They prefer — at least in the 
 earlier history of the railways — to make even a con- 
 siderable detour. Later on when the railway has be- 
 come a success and can afford luxuries and desires to 
 economise time, tunnelling is more frequently resorted 
 to and in the same way gradients lessened and curves 
 made less abrupt. 
 
 At Altoona we are fairly on the east side of the 
 Alleghany divide, and in Altoona we recognise a 
 counterpart of Crewe — for Altoona is to the Pennsyl- 
 vanian Railroad what Crewe Is to the London & 
 N. W. Railway — Its mighty workshop. 
 
 On, on we roll past Tipton, Tyrone, Birmingham, 
 Petersburgh, Lewlstown, to Duncannon, where we 
 enter upon another of the many lovely valleys of the 
 country, the -Innlato valley, and for about 100 miles 
 our train Is running close by the beautiful but not 
 mighty stream which gives Its name to the valley. 
 
 Still on, on we go until as we approach close to 
 Harrisburg (the capital of the State of Pennsyl- 
 vania) we cross one of the loveliest, finest, and most 
 
184 A Month in the United States 
 
 picturesque of the many great rivers — the Susque- 
 hanna. I was perfectly charmed with this river — its 
 width, its great volume of water, its sloping banks, its 
 luxuriant vegetation, and the wealth and beauty of 
 colour in its trees. I was indeed delighted with it. 
 Where we crossed, the river is little short of a mile in 
 width. Considering the vast extent of this continent 
 and its great and frequent mountain ranges — many 
 of them in perpetual winter garb — I ought not per- 
 haps to be surprised; but I am nevertheless con- 
 stantly surprised at the frequency of wide-spreading, 
 deep, and rapid rivers. I check my surprise, but as 
 each new, great river appears to delight me, up comes 
 my feeling of surprise once more. 
 
 I have said Harrisburg is the capital of the State. 
 It will have been noticed how seldom it is that the 
 capital of the State is the chief town of the State. For 
 instance, Albany is the capital of the State of New 
 York, which has within it the greatest city in the 
 States; and here again Harrisburg is the capital of 
 Pennsylvania, which has Philadelphia, the second city 
 of the States within it. The reasons for this arrange- 
 ment are partly geographical and partly political. 
 The geographical reasons have reference to conven- 
 ience as to central position and so on, but the political 
 reasons are also strong. It is considered desirable 
 that the legislative body of each State should not 
 meet where a particular party is exceptionally strong 
 in political and general importance. This is a matter 
 
A Month in the United States 185 
 
 of statesmanship, but, further, the great bulk of the 
 voting power in the State will generally (Impelled 
 partly by meaner motives) combine against "locat- 
 ing" the Legislature in the biggest and therefore the 
 most powerful place. 
 
 From Harrlsburg to Washington via Baltimore 
 we saw little, for the night had fallen and It was late 
 when we entered the stately, dignified capital of the 
 United States — named after America's patron saint 
 (If America could own such a weakness) George 
 Washington. 
 
 Washington, Sunday, Oct. 7, 1883. 
 "\T 7e were up soon after the sun, and our Impres- 
 * ^ sions overnight of the dignity of this great 
 capital city were fortified. It is by far the most ele- 
 gant city I have seen in the States, with an air, too, 
 of refinement about It which Is not to be found In all 
 cities. For instance, with all Its great commercial im- 
 portance, Chicago Is "sweaty" and smells somehow 
 of pig; San Francisco with all its brightness and po- 
 tentialities in the future has still the nouveau riche 
 flavour; and New York, centre at once of commercial 
 and intellectual activity, has an air of restless unrest 
 about it — a feeling of feverishness, as if the spirit of 
 Wall Street had leavened all its society. 
 
 St. Matthew's Church, which we visited early in 
 the morning, presented some novel features In a house 
 
1 86 A Month in the United States 
 
 for Catholic worship. The hateful pew system cov- 
 ered the whole place. But worse — with hardly an ex- 
 ception, the pews were locked ! After some searching 
 I got into one, but soon after a lady entered, prob- 
 ably its proprietor, who looked at me as if very little 
 would induce her to bring an action for trespass 
 against me qitare clausum fregit. It was a novel, 
 wholly novel, experience. I enquired of a lady as we 
 left the church, "Are there any free seats?" 
 
 "No." 
 
 "Are there any people in Washington who are too 
 poor to pay for a pew?" 
 
 "Oh, yes, no doubt." 
 
 "What becomes of them?" 
 
 "I don't know, they go elsewhere. This is not the 
 only church. This is the fashionable church. It is 
 here the representatives of the various Catholic Lega- 
 tions come to Mass. If one did not lock the pews, 
 you would have no use of the pew you pay for." 
 
 I spent the day perambulating the city and sailing 
 on the steamboats that ferry passengers up and down 
 and across the Potomac, on whose eastern bank the 
 city stands. The day was most enjoyable, and the 
 crisp, bright atmosphere helped to bring out the 
 beauty of the public buildings sharply and clearly. 
 
 The public buildings are very fine : the Treasury, 
 the Post Office Department, the Army and Navy — 
 all planned in a sensible, practical spirit, but possessing 
 besides considerable architectural beauty. The white 
 
A Month in the United States 187 
 
 marble, granite, and red sandstone, of which the 
 town is built, present an agreeable variety; and the 
 trees which are growing in all parts, and the open 
 public planted spaces, which are numerous, combine 
 to give an appearance of quiet elegance which I have 
 rarely met with, even in the old cities of the Old 
 World. I expect in fifty years Washington will com- 
 pare favourably with any city in the world. At pres- 
 ent it looks as if it had not been built up as speedily 
 as its founders expected, but I learn that wealthy men 
 from other parts of the States are beginning — apart 
 from politics — to take up their residences there, and 
 that the refinement of its society is beginning to be 
 recognised. Just now, too, there is a big scheme on 
 foot to reclaim permanently from the river large, 
 shallow, covered mudbanks, which will at once add 
 considerably to the space available for public pur- 
 poses and also to the healthful character of the city. 
 Opposite to Washington, on the other side of the 
 Potomac, is the residence of the late General Lee, 
 who fought so gallantly and brilliantly for the South. 
 It is a hopeful sign to note that all without distinction 
 of North or South refer with pride to the bravery and 
 skill manifested in the War of Secession. Some miles 
 down the Potomac, on its way to Chesapeake Bay, is 
 Mount Vernon, once Washington's residence, but 
 now national property, where are gathered together 
 some precious relics of the great soldier-statesman of 
 America ; but I was not able to go down to see it. 
 
1 88 A Month in the United States 
 
 Here in the city is to be seen, lifting up its head higher 
 and higher towards the sky, a very noble monument 
 to his memory. It was begun forty years ago, and it 
 is hardly creditable that in 1863 it had progressed 
 but a short way. The Civil War caused a long sus- 
 pension of the work, but within the last few years it 
 has progressed with speed. It is now (I believe) 
 about 400 feet high, but it is to be considerably 
 higher. Its design is very simple but impressive — a 
 great square column gradually tapering, made of im- 
 mense blocks of white marble. It stands in the public 
 park, and although not on very high ground, it pre- 
 sents itself to notice in all directions and at very long 
 distances from the city. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the Potomac is the city of 
 Alexandria, to which I refer only to say that from the 
 steamboat you get an excellent view of Washington, 
 sloping gradually up the river bank, and very fair 
 to see in the bright warm glow of this October 
 evening. 
 
 From Baltimore south the number of the negroes 
 increases in a marked manner, and here in Washing- 
 ton there is a large population of them. I wish to say 
 of this long-oppressed race that, so far as I can judge, 
 they are playing their part in life, on the whole, well 
 and creditably. I speak of what I have myself seen. 
 All over the country, in the Pullman sleepers, they 
 act as porters, rarely as conductors; though I have 
 thought at times that many of them were superior to 
 
A Month in the United States 189 
 
 their superiors. In many places — San Francisco, for 
 instance — they monopohse the waiting to a great ex- 
 tent. They are rising certainly, but rising slowly in 
 the social scale. Nor is this to be wondered at, for it 
 must be admitted that they are looked upon with dis- 
 favour even by many who were advocates for their 
 enfranchisement. It is difficult to get whites to work 
 harmoniously with them, and for this physical reasons 
 are sometimes put forward. 
 
 I am told that the negroes farther south are not 
 like the negroes I have seen, that the former show 
 no trace of improvement from the old days when their 
 masters owned them. Of this I cannot speak, but I 
 must say I have found them north, west and east, 
 good-natured, patient, fairly intelligent, and, when 
 properly approached, quite anxious to be obliging. I 
 must speak of one in particular, my friend Joe Green, 
 who is a kind of factotum and a very valuable one, 
 too, for Mr. Frank Thomson on board his railway 
 car. Joe is porter, conductor, cook, courier, and 
 valet, all rolled into one; and he is excellent in each 
 capacity, and in all. In a word, I know no white man 
 in his rank of life who could, in racing parlance, give 
 an ounce to Joe Green over any intelligent course. 
 Full bred. 
 
 The grown negroes are not beautiful to look at, 
 but they are well-built generally and the little picka- 
 ninnies are really often very pretty, with their curly 
 black heads, funny rolling eyes, and pearly white 
 
I90 A Month in the United States 
 
 teeth. I am sure May and Bertie, Lily and Margaret 
 would be delighted with them. 
 
 There is a considerable Irish population in Wash- 
 ington, and an informant whom I believe to be reli- 
 able told me that between them and the Germans the 
 greater part of the real estate of the city is engrossed. 
 
 Of one man, a county Armagh man, born near 
 Belleek, not far from Newry in the direction of New- 
 town Hamilton, I must speak. He is typical, in some 
 respects at least, of many of his countrymen in 
 America. They have several children. One is a law- 
 yer and newspaper editor in, I think, Arizona. The 
 younger ones are learning trades, or are becoming 
 well-educated. He Insisted on my walking with him 
 to his house, where there were assembled some friends 
 from Philadelphia to celebrate his silver wedding. 
 [By the by, it is time to think of celebrating another 
 silver wedding!] At his house, in every way com- 
 fortable, he got his youngest child, aged about nine — 
 a girl — to play some Irish airs, which she did fairly 
 well. 
 
 We talked over his own history and incidentally 
 of politics. 
 
 He fought for the North all through the war and 
 has now buried somewhere in his chest a bullet which 
 the surgeons cannot get at and which occasionally 
 troubles him. He is now a clerk in a Government 
 department at Washington. 
 
 He is a Democrat in American politics and firmly 
 
A Month in the United States 191 
 
 believes (as I find a good many more do also) not 
 only that General McClellan was the great soldier of 
 the North, but also that, if he had been loyally sup- 
 ported at the beginning, he would have made short 
 work of it. He believes that, because he (McClel- 
 lan) was a Democrat, the Republicans in power were 
 unwilling that he should have too much glory; for 
 they knew that that meant the advent of the Demo- 
 crats to power and McClellan for President. As to 
 home politics, he is, like all the Easterners, with few 
 exceptions whom we met, an advanced Nationalist- 
 Any man who, by any means almost short of murder 
 and dynamite, would try to help Ireland, and (which 
 is often thought to be the same thing) flout England 
 and England's statesmen, has his best sympathies. He 
 is inclined to think Parnell too moderate. He is a 
 diligent reader of the "Irish World," published by a 
 Mr. Patrick Ford, which I have only twice seen, but 
 which I find is a real power amongst the Irish here. 
 They believe in Mr. Ford's honesty; and they know 
 it means ill to England and believe it means well to 
 Ireland. There is no journalist in America who to 
 so large an extent can influence the pockets and the 
 political action of the Irish in America. 
 
 Kilmartin is another Irishman, in America almost 
 from boyhood, who learned his trade of blacksmith 
 here, and who is now a master of his craft with men 
 in his employment. He is as ardent a politician as 
 the other, and heartily devoted to the old Faith. He 
 
192 A Month in the United States 
 
 was spending Sunday in visiting the neighbourhood 
 of Alexandria, where two of his children are at Cath- 
 olic boarding-schools. I find that on the whole the 
 influence of Catholic priests is great in America 
 amongst Catholics, but nothing compared with what 
 it is, or rather with what it was, years ago in Ireland. 
 This lessened influence by no means necessarily implies 
 lessened religious devotion. In truth to the evil pol- 
 icy, in bygone times, of England, the priesthood in 
 Ireland owed much of their influence. Who was 
 there to "stand up to" the local landlord but the 
 priest? Who to vindicate public rights against pri- 
 vate oppression but the priest? And when the law 
 gave the franchise to the peasant-serf, but enjoined 
 that It should be exercised under the eye of agent and 
 bailiff, who but the priest was bold enough to tell the 
 people that in their union they could defy landlord 
 tyranny? Who but the priest with voice loud enough 
 to reach them, to tell them that the right exercise of 
 the franchise was a matter not of caprice or private 
 Interest, but public duty? I do not refer to those 
 times still further back when law made the persecuted, 
 spy-hunted priest an object of deepest love and high- 
 est veneration. 
 
 With altered conditions — better laws in Ireland, 
 with the gradually growing Independence and 
 strength and intelligence of the people. It Is In the na- 
 ture of things that the priest should keep more and 
 more within the sanctuary and mix less and less In 
 
A Month in the United States 193 
 
 secular affairs, and even In political affairs, save where 
 these seem to affect some moral interests. 
 
 On this point it is curious and Interesting to note 
 the altered tone of a portion of the English press. 
 Time was when It was confidently said — undo, under- 
 mine the influence of the Catholic priest: take educa- 
 tion wholly from his control; free the Irish people 
 from the spiritual thraldom which they suffer, and 
 the Anglo-Irish diflficulty will speedily come to an end. 
 
 Well — what do these same scribes say now? I 
 will not stop to give the answer. 
 
 I have had a very long tramp to-day and a long 
 scribble, and exhausted nature cries out, "Spare your- 
 self and your devoted family for the present." Amen» 
 I sleepily respond. 
 
 Monday, Oct. 8, 1883. 
 (Washington and en route for New York) 
 '' I ^ 0-DAY we continued our peregrination. I will 
 -^ say nothing of the art and scientific collection 
 beyond this, that Corcoran's (due to the munificent 
 endowment of a banker of that name) Art Gallery 
 has many notable objects, amongst them Power's fa- 
 mous "Greek Slave," and that the Smithsonian 
 Museum (also due to private munificence) Is rich in 
 objects of interest in natural history, and especially 
 relating to early America. 
 
 The White House (the President's residence) Is a 
 fine, roomy, plain, sensible gentleman's residence on 
 
194 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 a large scale — nothing more. President Arthur was 
 in New York, but the gates were open ; and, whether 
 the President be there or not, the people are free to 
 come and go as far as the grounds are concerned. 
 There is no pretentious fuss about, and no soldier or 
 policeman was, or generally is, in attendance. 
 
 The Capitol, of which Washington himself laid 
 the foundation stone, is a building of which Ameri- 
 cans are proud and with reason. It comprises the 
 Senate House, the House of Representatives, the 
 Congressional Library, and the Court, in which the 
 Supreme Court of Appeal of the United States sits. 
 
 I could, I should think, mention several public 
 buildings which in some particulars I should prefer 
 to the Capitol ; but, taking it as a whole, its situs, its 
 general effect, its suitability for all allotted purposes, 
 and the practical common-sense brought to bear in 
 carrying out these purposes, I cannot name any one 
 building of a similar nature which, I think, is equal 
 to it. 
 
 I won't describe its parts in detail. The House of 
 Representatives is adorned with fine portraits of La- 
 fayette and Washington; and I notice in the outer 
 lobby several large paintings of greater or less artistic 
 merit, one-half of them perpetuating incidents of the 
 great war of the Revolution and England's defeated 
 part in them, and perpetuated, I need hardly say, 
 purely from the American standpoint. 
 
 The House of Representatives is larger, a good 
 
A Month in the United States 195 
 
 deal larger, than the English House of Commons, 
 and its arrangements take greater care of the physical 
 comfort of its members. Each member has a com- 
 fortable chair with a convenient writing desk in front 
 of him. Contrast this with the scramble for seats in 
 the Commons, with its absence of all writing or note- 
 taking conveniences and the difference is striking, and 
 oh ! the misery for the first time of rising with only 
 the bare back of a bench before you. 
 
 There is, it seems, no recognised place for Repub- 
 licans and Democrats, or for government and non- 
 government men. There is a general ballot, but by 
 exchange and mutual concession men get settled down 
 amongst those with whom they usually act, as with 
 us. 
 
 This is not the place in which to stop to notice the 
 extraordinary fact that in the American system of 
 political government the Cabinet of the President are 
 not seated in the legislative chambers to propound or 
 to defend the policy of the Government of the day. 
 But it is a curious political fact. 
 
 I regretted we were obliged to leave Washington 
 so soon, though I believe we pretty well exhausted its 
 objects of interest. Between Washington and Phila- 
 delphia the journey is through a country interesting 
 in itself, and interesting because full of incidents re- 
 lating to the two great struggles in which young 
 America has so far been engaged. Between Wash- 
 ington and New York, indeed, the whole country is 
 
196 A Month in the United Stales 
 
 interesting and picturesque, numbers of rivers which 
 anywhere else would deserve to be called great rivers, 
 again and again appearing. Between the points last 
 named we touch or cross the Potomac, the Gunpow- 
 der, the Bush, the Susquehanna (which discharges 
 into Chesapeake Bay), the Delaware and the Passaic 
 rivers amongst others. I will not stop to describe 
 them; but the Susquehanna looked especially lovely 
 where we crossed it, the town of Havre-de-Grace be- 
 ing on one side and Ferryville on the other. 
 
 At Philadelphia we were joined by Mr, Thomson 
 and by some of his friends, who, like Mr. Thomson 
 and myself, were to dine at the Knickerbocker Club 
 in the evening — of which more hereafter, 
 
 I had hoped to be able to return to Philadelphia 
 later, but to my great regret this was found to be im- 
 possible. 
 
 Philadelphia is in population the second city in the 
 States, while in the area it covers and in the number 
 of its buildings it comes first. It has historic interest, 
 too — for it was here in 1776 that the Declaration of 
 Independence was signed and published. By the way, 
 I learned at Washington that Charles Carroll of Car- 
 rolton, the only Irishman and Catholic who so far 
 as I know was a signatory to this Declaration, has 
 living descendants held in honour and respect. 
 
 From Philadelphia to Jersey City was only at most 
 a two hours' journey by express train, and in the 
 pleasant company in which I found myself it seemed 
 
A Month in the United States 197 
 
 much less, I must say something of the personnel 
 of this party. Imprimis, Mr. Thomson, not given 
 to long monologues himself, but following ap- 
 parently with Interest the monologues of other people 
 and always ready to draw others out. Mr. Rawle, a 
 Philadelphia lawyer of some eminence — "Rawle on 
 Covenants" — in fact, gentlemanly, quiet, and unas- 
 suming. Mr. MacVeagh is a lawyer of note. He 
 was Attorney-General of the States during poor 
 President Garfield's short reign. He, although an 
 Irishman by parentage, is to my eye in some respects 
 more like the typical Yankee in physique than many 
 whom I have met. In manner his descent is betrayed. 
 He interested me very much — a lean, colourless, wiry 
 man, distinctly bilious-looking. He is vehement, elo- 
 quent, humorous, and apparently greatly in earnest 
 about every topic which cropped up big and little. 
 He is a Republican in politics, but (as I gathered) 
 had kicked over the traces; is anything but a docile 
 man in the hands of the wire-pullers, and altogether 
 the kind of man who has views and ideas of his own 
 which greatly detract from his value as a steady-go- 
 ing, thick-and-thin party adherent. And there are 
 men, even in politics, to be found to admire such men ! 
 The only unmentioned one of our party was Sena- 
 tor Bayard — Democrat Senator for the State of Dela- 
 ware, or, to speak in more constitutional language, 
 returned for that State. He is a big, jolly, good- 
 looking man with indications of power about his 
 
198 A Mo7tth in the United States 
 
 rather massive head and face. A political opponent, 
 but admirer of his, afterwards told me "If Bayard 
 were nominated by the Democrats, he would be Presi- 
 dent to a certainty." 
 
 "How is that?" 
 
 "Well, he is a fairly able man, and he is more than 
 a fairly honest man." 
 
 "Will he get the Democratic nomination?" 
 
 "No chance, I think, but I don't know." 
 
 "Why?" 
 
 "Well, I guess he is too honest for his party. They 
 would want to stipulate with him that he would turn 
 out neck and crop all the Republicans in office. They 
 want all the loaves and fishes for themselves — all, big 
 and little. Now Senator Bayard, I guess, would go 
 a long way to meet views but not that length." 
 
 I played the part of listener with interest and 
 amusement and soon we found ourselves at Jersey 
 City. 
 
 I prefer listening in American conversation and for 
 several reasons. You learn more by holding your 
 tongue unless indeed you open it to ask questions. But 
 more, the conversation is more or less of an effort. 
 Very frequently American gentlemen "orate" where 
 we should talk in conversation loosely and without 
 any very close attention to our parts. 
 
 The dinner at the Knickerbocker was pleasant and 
 good — our host, Mr. C. Randolph Robinson, whom 
 you will recollect in Harley Street — a leading New 
 
A Month in the United States 199 
 
 York lawyer and an amiable, gentlemanly man. He 
 might not take it for a compliment, and I mean 
 merely to say what I think, when I add that he is 
 very like in manner what a good type of man at the 
 Bar with us is. Lord Coleridge, Lord Justice Bowen, 
 and myself were the only foreigners present. 
 Amongst the notables was the head of the house of 
 Astor, the largest real estate owners in the city and 
 whose wealth is said to be enormous. He seemed a 
 quiet, unassuming man who made no large contribu- 
 tion to the stock of talk. Mr. Evarts was also here, 
 pleasant, witty, and as unserious on serious topics as 
 ever. His partner, Mr. Choate, too — a man of con- 
 siderable reputation. By the way, what a relief it 
 would be to have that partnership system at the Bar 
 with us. I feel I have now got to that time of life 
 when I could lend the dignity of my name, such as it 
 is, and the benefit of a general supervising experience 
 to an efficient partner who should be allowed to earn 
 all the money (sharing it with me) and also to enjoy 
 all the honour and glory ! 
 
 My neighbour was a benevolent, chubby, and in- 
 teresting man, Mr. John Jay, formerly a lawyer, and 
 grandson of the first Chief Justice of the United 
 States. 
 
 The Chief Justice was (with Franklin and others) , 
 one of the American representatives in the peace ne- 
 gotiations and stoutly resisted the advice of Franklin 
 to rely on the guidance and counsels of France, which 
 
200 A Month in the United States 
 
 the Chief Justice thoroughly distrusted. Mr. Jay is 
 delighted to find that only quite recently the labori- 
 ous researches of Mr. Lecky have thoroughly vin- 
 dicated his distinguished ancestor's wisdom and con- 
 duct. 
 
 The only remaining guest I need mention is my 
 friend, Mr. Cadwalader, also a lawyer of distinction 
 of New York, to whose kind hospitality and attention 
 much of the pleasure of my visit to America is due. 
 You will have noticed how many of the people whose 
 names I introduce belong to the profession of the law. 
 No doubt "birds of a feather flock together"; but the 
 fact is that lawyers are about the most numerous pro- 
 fessional class in the country, and they have managed 
 to secure a larger share in the government of their 
 country in important places than probably any two 
 other classes together. I propose to treat you here- 
 after to some general observations upon some special 
 points of interest which have struck me, and I shall 
 again recur to this topic. 
 
 The evening passed very enjoyably, but I must ad- 
 mit the conversation had occasionally more of effort 
 and less of careless spontaneity than with us. "Oh," 
 said one of my friends in answer to my observation, 
 "it isn't merely that they orate, they perorate"; any- 
 way, they cannot be accused of what our distinguished 
 conversationalists, including Macaulay the brilliant, 
 were said habitually to do — namely, prepare their 
 topics a priori and get some ingenious friend to lead 
 
A Month in the United States 201 
 
 up to their carefully prepared impromptus. By the 
 way I find the Chief Justice of England has acquired 
 quite a reputation as a raconteur. He certainly has 
 no end of stories which he is always willing to let off 
 pleasantly upon very slight provocation in whatever 
 company he chances to find himself. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct. 9, 1883. 
 (At New York) 
 A FTER the many discomforts inseparable from pro- 
 ■^^^ longed and rapid travelling I am glad to find my- 
 self at the Hotel Brunswick once more in comfort- 
 able if not luxurious quarters. New York is to me 
 what Capua was to Hannibal's soldiers, but it will 
 not, I hope, have the same enervating effects. 
 
 I had noticed in the papers in the west several times 
 that I was to be asked to lead in the defence of 
 O'Donnell, but, not finding any despatches on the sub- 
 ject on my arrival here, I had begun to hope there was 
 nothing in the rumour. The case seems a desperate 
 one, and besides, as you know, criminal cases are very 
 wide of my line. This morning, however, a gentleman 
 waited upon me (Mr. Moran, I think was his name) 
 who said he was connected with the legal profes- 
 sion and also (as I understood him) connected with 
 the "Irish World," which has been instrumental in 
 collecting funds for O'Donnell's defence. I told him 
 I had heard nothing from England about the matter; 
 
202 A Month in the United States 
 
 that the case was out of my ordinary line of practice; 
 that Mr. Sullivan could thoroughly well do all that 
 it was possible to do in such a case, and that I could 
 say nothing definite about the matter until I reached 
 England, except this, that personally I should much 
 prefer not to be in the case, but that I should not feel 
 justified professionally in declining to act if my ser- 
 vices were desired by the prisoner's friends. In short, 
 I did not like the case, but would not shirk the re- 
 sponsibility. 
 
 I own to the fear that it may be desired to conduct 
 the defence upon lines not wholly conceived with a 
 view to saving O'Donnell's life. Against this, if I 
 have anything to do with the case, I shall steadfastly 
 set my face. 
 
 I went to lunch at the Windsor with Lord Justice 
 Bowen and Lord Carington, Lord Coleridge and his 
 son. Major Baring also lunched there. We had a 
 very cheery party. The Chief Justice w^as in great 
 spirits and has obviously enjoyed his trips to Chicago, 
 St. Louis, and elsewhere. He has had to do a good 
 deal of talking, or as they frequently call it here, chin- 
 music. The appetite of the Americans for oratory 
 seems to me insatiable. In this respect they beat the 
 Irish hollow. I have seen them sit through hours of 
 oratory — good, bad, and indifferent, and show no 
 signs of impatience. He dined at a so-called private 
 dinner party in Chicago, at which he was assured no 
 press man would be present, but was horrified to hear 
 
A Month in the United States 203 
 
 his host informed that copies of his (the host's) 
 speech of the evening had been duly forwarded to the 
 local papers. In the result the speeches lasted till the 
 small hours of the morning, and the Chief Justice had 
 the satisfaction of seeing the host's speech, full of wit 
 and epigram, carefully and literally reported ! 
 
 This Windsor Hotel is one of the finest, if not the 
 finest, in New York. The best hotels here are cer- 
 tainly dearer than the best with us — for instance, 
 Lord Carington paid for a small sitting-room and a 
 bedroom seventeen dollars a day, covering bed and 
 board. At the Brunswick the charge for a small bed- 
 room with a bath annexed is from five dollars per day, 
 for rooms alone. 
 
 In the evening Martin and I dined together quietly 
 and afterwards went to the Madison Square Theatre 
 and saw a piece called "The Rajah." Neither play 
 nor players were remarkable. By the way, the usual 
 mode of spelling "theater" and "center" are as I have 
 here written them down. Traveller and travelling 
 are almost invariably spelt with one "1." 
 
 New York, Wednesday, Oct. 10, 1883. 
 'T^His was comparatively a quiet day. The morn- 
 ^ ing I spent walking about the streets, which re- 
 mind me more of Paris than of any other place. 
 
 In the afternoon I went with my friend Mr. E. L. 
 Godkin, partly by the elevated railway and partly by 
 
204 ^ Month in the United States 
 
 carriage, to the gentlemen's driving park, Fleetwood, 
 to see some good trotting. This elevated railway is, 
 so far as I know, a perfectly unique institution. It 
 traverses the city practically from end to end, run- 
 ning through, or to be more correct, running above 
 some of the most busy thoroughfares at an elevation 
 of (speaking roughly) fifty to one hundred and fifty 
 feet. It extends beyond the Central Park, and near 
 this its elevation is greatest. Standing upon what in 
 the distance seems very slight scaffolding, and seen 
 from a low standpoint against the warm evening sky, 
 the appearance of the train speeding along as it were 
 in mid-air is very startling. So far as I can gather no 
 compensation was paid to the owners of property in 
 the streets along which the railway runs, although in 
 many cases the real damage done must have been con- 
 siderable. The number of passengers carried by it 
 must be something enormous. For ten cents you can 
 journey its entire length; and for five cents you can 
 go the full length of any of the stages or tram rail- 
 ways. Moving about the city by these means is one 
 of the few cheap things in America. But, if you come 
 to use a one-horse or two horse carriage the charges 
 are about double or treble our ordinary cab fares, but 
 you get a much more respectable looking article. 
 
 The trotting drive at Fleetwood, which is club 
 property, is a circular measured mile in circumference, 
 with a members' stand and enclosure, and also with 
 one open to the public on payment. This trotting 
 
A Month in the United States 205 
 
 seems a passion with New York gentlemen, and I 
 think Mr. W. H. Vanderbilt would hear with greater 
 equanimity of the failure of a great coup in Wall 
 Street than he would that Mr. Work had a newly-ac- 
 quired team which would beat hollow the record of 
 his famous trotters, Maud S. and Aline. 
 
 Several of the men and of the. horses famous in 
 trotting circles were here. Mr. Work and his famous 
 team, Swiveller and Edward; Mr. Shepperd F. 
 Knapp and a pair of very promising youngsters; and 
 Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt, but neither Maud S. nor Aline 
 was here. The main feature of the day's sport was a 
 race among the members driving their own teams In 
 ordinary trotting wagons with the restriction that the 
 horses competing should not previously have exceeded 
 a certain time record, as, for Instance, a mile In 2.40 
 or 2.50. The false starts were the principal Interest 
 In the race. There were some nine competitors, and, 
 as a flying start is permitted, the difliculty Is to get 
 them at the right moment on equitable terms. 
 
 Of much more Interest to me was the speeding of 
 Mr. Work's crack team round the course under the 
 guidance of a crack driver, John Murphy. I said 
 to Mr. Knapp, "Is he a good man at this work?" 
 
 "About the best we have and honest as steel." 
 
 Murphy seemed quite a popular hero, very much 
 after the manner of Archer, Fordham, John Osborn, 
 and Cannon with us. Murphy Is a man of about 
 forty, a lithe, spare frame, good, broad shoulders, 
 
2o6 A Month in the United States 
 
 and a determined face. Oft they go for a breather 
 round the track; and, as they come round the home- 
 stretch, they are going at a capital pace; and, nearing 
 the starting-point, John Murphy is seen to nod to the 
 gentlemen in the Judges' stand; and, as the team dash 
 past, the official stop watches (and hundreds besides) 
 are set to check the record. "They will do the mile 
 in a shade under 2.20," said Mr. Work, to whose 
 kindness I was indebted for this treat. 
 
 On they went at what seemed to me a terrific pace, 
 sending up a cloud of sand and dust which rendered 
 quite necessary the protective goggles with which the 
 driver was adorned. As they came closer to us, the 
 speed seemed even greater; and, as they were round- 
 ing for the home stretch, Mr. Work's quick eye de- 
 tected something wrong. "By gad, Edward has 
 broke. Well, I would have laid a thousand dollar 
 note against that something has happened." Before 
 the sentence is well finished, the horses have swept by, 
 and a thousand watches are consulted, and presently 
 the official record is prominently displayed, showing 
 that the gallant chestnut and bay have sped their 
 mile in 2 min. 19! sec. Mr. Work was right. Some- 
 thing had happened. Edward had struck and slightly 
 cut the heel of his near forefoot, which had caused 
 him, usually as steady as a rock, to break his trot. 
 
 Mr. Work's stables are very perfect and complete. 
 Their kindly owner devotes a great deal of time, and 
 takes a great deal of interest In this favourite Ameri- 
 
A Month in the United States 207 
 
 can pastime, and it was, I fear, a bitter moment for 
 him when he learned that Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt with 
 Maud S. and AHne had beaten the best record of his 
 crack team. It is not without interest to note how the 
 best record keeps constantly being beaten. Fifteen 
 years ago a mile in 2.40 for a single horse was con- 
 sidered a tip-top performance. To-day Jay Eye See 
 trotted a mile in 2.io|, and a horse called Johnstone,, 
 the property of Mr. Case, paced a mile in even less 
 time the other day at Chicago. 
 
 My friend Mr. Godkin and Holmes dined with me 
 at Delmonico's in Fifth Avenue, where we had an ex- 
 cellent dinner and at a cost by no means extravagant, 
 considering the reputation of the restaurant. 
 
 Later we went to the Star Theatre to see the trag- 
 edy of "Francesca da Rimini," written by quite a 
 modern playwright. You know the story. I cannot 
 say I greatly enjoyed the piece. It was too doleful, 
 but unquestionably Barrett played the part of the de- 
 formed Gianciotto with considerable power and dig- 
 nity. 
 
 New York, Thursday, Oct. ii, 1883. 
 T SPENT the early day rambling about alone and 
 J- pleasantly enough. I find the people quite civil, 
 as civil if not as polite as the Parisian in the days of 
 the Empire, and certainly much more civil than the 
 general run of Englishmen. I do not want, by the 
 way, to be taken for a Bonapartist, but have you not 
 
2o8 A Month in the United States 
 
 noticed that, since the Empire suddenly crumpled up, 
 the manners of the people of Paris have retrograded? 
 It seems to me their civility to men and their defer- 
 ence to women are not what they once were. Here 
 I am struck with the marked deference paid to 
 women. They give place to them in the streets, in 
 the railways, and in the stage cars in a way quite nice 
 to see. Women, too, of all classes and ages, go about 
 in the public streets and in the public conveyances, 
 too, alone in a way quite unknown to us. I suppose 
 there are exceptions to the rule, but here they do not 
 seem to suffer from the annoyance which one hears 
 frequently spoken of in London and other cities. I 
 dined with my friend Mr. Cadwalader at his luxuri- 
 ous bachelor quarters in 35th St., where I met in addi- 
 tion to my friends Mr. Frank Thomson and Mr. 
 E. R. Robinson, of whom I have already spoken 
 more than once, Mr. Carter and Mr. Parsons (two 
 lawyers eminent in this city) and Mr. Justice Law- 
 rence, a Judge of the Supreme Court. A most pleas- 
 ant and enjoyable evening it was, and I regretted be- 
 ing obliged to cut it short in order to attend the great 
 Coleridge function fixed to take place to-night. 
 
 I am struck with the candour with which men here 
 discuss their institutions political, religious, and social, 
 and admit generally with great frankness the blots in 
 the existing condition of things. But I need hardly 
 add they still claim to be the greatest and most power- 
 ful nation this world has yet seen ; and they even point 
 
A Month in the United States 209 
 
 exultlngly to their very weaknesses as proofs of their 
 glory and their greatness; for what but a country of 
 great resources (mental, moral, and material) could 
 be great and glorious in spite of these drawbacks? 
 
 The great function to which I have alluded Is the 
 reception to-night of Lord Coleridge at the Academy 
 of Music by the Bar Association of the State of New 
 York. The first of these associations in the State in 
 point of time as well as Influence and importance, is 
 the Bar Association of the City of New York. This 
 association will do honour to Lord Coleridge at a 
 later date, and a number of its members took part In 
 to-night's affair; but on the whole, for reasons to 
 which reference here need not be made, they have 
 not acted cordially with the State Association, which 
 has been actively represented by Mr. Elliott F. Shep- 
 ard, the attentive host of Lord Coleridge up to this 
 time. 
 
 The history of the City Association is In the high- 
 est degree creditable to the members of the legal pro- 
 fession in New York. It sprang into existence dur- 
 ing what is still called the Infamous Tweed regime, 
 when corruption stalked all-powerful, and when 
 what was called justice was by some of Its adminis- 
 trators an article sold to the highest bidder. It was 
 then that the best men at the Bar banded themselves 
 together and finally succeeded in hurling v/ith infamy 
 from the Bench two of the men who had most dis- 
 graced it — I mean Judge Barnard and Judge Car- 
 
2IO A Month in the United States 
 
 dozo. I have no doubt that many of my friends at 
 the English Bar have had before them (as I have 
 had) some of the remarkable decisions of Judge 
 Barnard in relation to the Erie Railway Company. ' 
 
 The Academy of Music, which is, in fact, the 
 Opera House, was very well filled throughout. To- 
 wards the front of the stage was erected a platform, 
 on which was seated Chief Justice Ruger of the State 
 of New York, and other distinguished members of 
 the reception committee, with, of course, the guest of 
 the evening. This platform was the only thing that 
 detracted from the striking character of the scene, 
 but it really fitted in very badly, not to say ludi- 
 crously, with the surroundings. It was narrow, with- 
 out railings, and rose boldly and abruptly from the 
 stage; and upon it were huddled together, on chairs 
 perilously close to the precipitous edges of the plat- 
 form, a number of gentlemen, generally speaking, old 
 and bald-headed, and also (I need not add) eminent 
 and respectable. This platform was a mistake. One 
 trembled for the fate of many if only one were in- 
 discreet. 
 
 The proceedings began by a speech pitched in a 
 high key of righteousness, delivered by Mr. Elliott F. 
 Shepard, wherein he introduced the Chief Justice of 
 England to the Chief Justice Ruger. Next followed 
 a speech by Chief Justice Ruger, a speech of honest 
 welcome to their distinguished guest. I confess to 
 liking Chief Justice Ruger's speech, for it was direct 
 
A MofHh in the United States 211 
 
 to its purpose, and, if commonplace in manner and 
 matter, was real and unaffected. 
 
 My good friend Mr. Evarts followed. He seems 
 to me to be indispensable in these matters and com- 
 monly fills the role of "great orator of the day." Of 
 Mr. Evarts' speech it is enough to say that he prob- 
 ably could not make a bad speech if he tried; and so 
 on the present occasion there were clever touches of 
 humour and deft involutions of phraseology which 
 tickled the ear if they did not yield much food to the 
 mental palate. He was supposed to represent the pro- 
 fessional element in the welcome. There was per- 
 haps in this relation more humour than judgment 
 shown in his emphasising the fact that, while lawyers 
 were accused of fleecing their clients, they never 
 flayed them, and that a judicious amount of fleecing 
 was supposed to add to the quantity and improve the 
 quality of the wool. 
 
 Then followed Lord Coleridge, who was warmly 
 received. His commanding figure and perfectly mod- 
 ulated voice soon arrested and kept the attention of 
 his audience. I am not going to say that this was in 
 any sense a great speech or that it contained a com- 
 pendium of political or any other wisdom. In point 
 of manner of delivery and as to tone and language, it 
 was Lord Coleridge at his best, and that is saying a 
 great deal; but it was after all a speech of an occasion 
 (as the French say) into which it would have been 
 extremely difficult, even if it had been wise, to say any- 
 
212 A Month in the United States 
 
 thing at once profound and acceptable about Ameri- 
 can institutions and conditions of things. His speech 
 for the time and place and occasion was admirable. 
 It was not unqualified praise, and it was not carping 
 censure. He praised with discrimination, and he cen- 
 sured in a way to impart to his praise a flavour of ju- 
 dicial impartiality. As was once said of Townsend 
 and the House of Commons, "he fairly hit his audi- 
 ence 'twixt wind and water." So far as one can 
 judge, his speech has been uncommonly well received 
 throughout the country. The statement which per- 
 haps for readers at home has the most interest is that 
 in which he said that, though he admired Mr. Glad- 
 stone much and was a steady supporter of his govern- 
 ment, yet that John Bright was the man with whose 
 political sentiments he (Lord Coleridge) most fre- 
 quently found himself in accord. If this were de- 
 signed as a rhetorical artifice to catch his audience, it 
 was very clever and very successful. Richard Cob- 
 den was a great English name, almost the only great 
 English name, with the American people, but 
 amongst living men John Bright's is the only one to 
 conjure with on the American continent. It is to be 
 noted, however, that this profession of radical faith 
 comes at the time when John Bright's radicalism has 
 passed its apogee, and his views are in some respects 
 at least supposed to be narrow and reactionary. I 
 thought, as I walked home after this brilliant gather- 
 ing, "I suppose Lord Coleridge does not forget that 
 
JOHN MITCHEL 
 
A Month in the United States 213 
 
 amongst one of John Bright's most famous public ut- 
 terances not yet recalled, was one in which he main- 
 tained that an hereditary legislative chamber could 
 not be permanently maintained in a free State." 
 
 Friday, Oct. 12, 1883. 
 T VISITED Castle Garden to-day, a spot full of inter- 
 -■- est to all who follow the fortunes of the emi- 
 grant, for It is here that he first sets foot on Ameri- 
 can soil, and he Is enrolled with careful particulars 
 amongst the inhabitants of the country. I reserve, 
 however, a full description of the place until I shall 
 have paid another and longer visit. I was anxious to 
 see the widow of poor John Mitchel, of "The United 
 Irishmen" and the "Jail Journal." My interest In 
 Mrs. Mitchel dates a long way back. She Is the 
 daughter of a Captain Verner (one of the family of 
 Co. Armagh Verners). He was a tenant of my 
 father in Ballybot, Newry, and it was while living 
 here (next door indeed to our old family house, where 
 all of us children were born) that she eloped with 
 John Mitchel, then, I think, practising as a Solicitor, 
 and one of the firm of Frazer and Mitchel. Poor 
 Mrs. Mitchel ! To look at, she was always weak and 
 fragile, and yet she has shown more than once in her 
 life that she has great nerve and resolution. It must 
 have been very soon after her marriage that John 
 Mitchel became prominent in Dublin as a politician 
 
214 A Month in the United States 
 
 and a journalist. Many have been found to condemn 
 what they considered the wickedness or impoHcy of 
 his political course, but no one has questioned his sin- 
 gle-mindedness and honesty of purpose. The only 
 time I ever recollect seeing him was when the railway 
 from Dublin reached no farther north than Drog- 
 heda. We were both going to Dublin, and both got 
 on the coach together on the Ballybot side of the town 
 close to Turner's Glen. He was a man not easily for- 
 gotten, and his conversation and appearance made a 
 deep impression upon the little lad, his fellow-trav- 
 eller, that day. I well recollect his dark straight 
 hair, almost whiskerless face, and sallow, colourless, 
 bloodless complexion, which, combined with a cer- 
 tain sharpness of feature and nobility of brow, gave 
 him a peculiarly intellectual appearance, with a look 
 almost of the ascetic. The square character of his 
 jaw and the firmness of his mouth conveyed the 
 notion of a resolute, not to say obstinate, man; a 
 notion which was not removed by the look of his 
 dark grey eyes, which seemed full of dreams and 
 melancholy. 
 
 I still think' him the most brilliant journalistic 
 writer I have ever known. He had not perhaps the 
 breadth of Frederick Lucas, nor the wide information 
 of Gavan Duffy, nor the tender pathetic imagination 
 of Thomas Davis; but his style was more terse, vig- 
 orous, and to the point than theirs and was wholly 
 free from affectation of scholarship foreign to the 
 
A Month in the United States 215 
 
 matter in hand. Occasionally In a sentence he could 
 condense a world of argument. One instance occurs 
 to me. In one of a series of letters addressed to the 
 Orangemen of the North, he is pointing out to them 
 why they should be in the van of the National move- 
 ment, as their fathers had been In 1782 and 1798; 
 and he is meeting an objection supposed to be made 
 by an Orangeman then, and certainly frequently 
 made for him since, namely: that to join with the 
 Irish papist would be to join the children of Anti- 
 christ, and so on. Each July 12th celebration makes 
 one familiar with this kind of thing. John Mitchel 
 did not proceed gravely to argue that, after all, the 
 evidence was not quite conclusive that the Pope was 
 really Antichrist, and that, after all, all Irishmen, 
 even Irish papists, were bound up with the weal or 
 woe of their country. He did none of these things. 
 In the language of the now defunct special pleader he 
 put in a plea of confession and avoidance. He wrote 
 a single line. "The Pope may be Antichrist, but, 
 Orangemen of the North, he serves no ejectments in 
 Ulster." 
 
 His second son, James MitcheP (his only surviv- 
 ing son), a little resembles his father in the placid 
 expression of his face, in his voice, and in his absence 
 of colour. He has not the strong masterful expres- 
 
 ^He died in 1908, and in the Catholic Faith, which at least two 
 of his sisters had adopted — without any opposition from their 
 father, who once told John O'Hagan that, if he could pray, he 
 would become a Catholic. 
 
2i6 A Month in the United States 
 
 sion of his father. That he Is as advanced a poHti- 
 cian on Irish affairs as his father a chance expression 
 revealed. I said, "You, I think, take no part in poli- 
 tics." "No, since the war I have had nothing to do 
 in any way with politics." Later on in our conversa- 
 tion the name of John Dillon came up. "Yes," said 
 he, "he is thoroughly honest, but he is too moderate a 
 politician for my taste." "Well, this is the first time 
 I have heard John Dillon called a moderate politi- 
 cian," I answered, laughing heartily; and so ended 
 our conversation. 
 
 I found Mrs. Mitchel looking stronger and stouter 
 than I had ever before seen her. Trouble had indeed 
 silvered her head, but, considering the sorrows which 
 have been crowded into her life, she seemed in good 
 spirits. To look at her you would hardly imagine 
 that, friendless, she ran the blockade to join her hus- 
 band and sons in the South. 
 
 You will recollect that in the War of Secession here 
 John Mitchel took part with the South, not, I am per- 
 suaded, because of his love of the institution of slav- 
 ery, but because he believed in the right of the South- 
 ern States to govern themselves. I speak here of what 
 I may call the natural right of the South. There is 
 probably little doubt that as to the matter of legal 
 right the weight of legal authority was with the 
 South. 
 
 As in whatever he attempted, John Mitchel was 
 never half hearted in his support; so he risked every- 
 
A Month in the United States 217 
 
 thing, person, position, means, and (more precious 
 than all these) his three sons for the cause he 
 espoused. 
 
 It Is a very sad story. The eldest son displayed 
 considerable mllitar}' genius, and was In command of 
 Fort Sumter when a chance cannon-ball ended a life 
 full of great promise. The third died on the field of 
 battle; and the second son, James, of whom I have 
 spoken, more than once wounded in actual con- 
 flict, alone survives, carrying with him as he will 
 to the end the maiming and disfiguring marks of 
 war. 
 
 With Mrs. Mitchel in all her troubles this consol- 
 ing thought may abide, that, however men may differ 
 as to John Mitchel's conduct, measured by the cold 
 standard of prudence, all men recognise in him the 
 rare stuff of sterling, unselfish devotion to the cause 
 he advocated. 
 
 I dined in the evening with Mr. E. L. Godkin at 
 25th St., a very pleasant gathering. 
 
 Saturday, Oct. 13, 1883. 
 \ /Ty friend Mr. E. R. Robinson drove me to-day 
 ^*-^ to Jerome Park to see some American flat rac- 
 ing. We went along the Hudson side of the Park at 
 first by what is called the Riverside Road, and after- 
 wards by the road known as the Grand Boulevard. 
 The glimpses of the Hudson River and of the Pali- 
 
2 1 8 A Month in the United States 
 
 sades on the opposite side of the river were very 
 beautiful. 
 
 These two very fine roads are due to the Tweed 
 regime period. They are very fine wide roads, 
 worthy of what I feel certain will be the future of this 
 suburb. New York is probably not the only city in 
 the world which owes its adornment to a profligate 
 administration. The fact is a great deal of work 
 done in Tweed's time was conceived in a worthy 
 spirit, but the municipality was made to pay three or 
 four prices for it. It is, I believe, computed that 
 Tweed brought the municipality into debt to the 
 amount of fifty million dollars, for which value was 
 received to the extent of about fifteen millions. At 
 present the tide of fashion following the line of Fifth 
 Avenue is distinctly setting towards the other and 
 lower side of the Park. I shall be disappointed i£ 
 this continues. When next I visit New York (and I 
 hope I shall be able to do that before ten years are 
 over) I expect to find this riverside district with 
 proper road approaches and other means of access; 
 and I shall be disappointed if the millionaires are not 
 there, disputing for sites in this picturesque neigh- 
 bourhood. The fact is Fifth Avenue is too narrow 
 for a great fashionable centre, and in a few years it 
 will probably be found to contain (at least to a great 
 extent) business houses. 
 
 Jerome Park is named after the gentleman who 
 owns the soil, and who is, I believe, the father-in-law 
 
A Month in the United States 219 
 
 of Lord Randolph Churchill. It is leased and man- 
 aged by a club very much on the principle of the San- 
 down Park near London; but the racing track, as It 
 is called, is not nearly so good as that of the latter. 
 It is a pretty enough place, and an evening can be 
 very pleasantly passed there; but it is not racing one 
 sees. 
 
 The track is too confined, the curves are too sharp, 
 and the straight run is too short (only about two fur- 
 longs) to allow a really good horse to get fully into 
 his stride. They have a very sensible plan here. The 
 bookmakers, or professional betting-men, they confine 
 to a particular spot away from the main stands; and 
 they make them pay a very considerable sum for lib- 
 erty to bet. This serves two useful purposes. It en- 
 ables the authorities to exercise surveillance as to the 
 character and stability of the professional betting- 
 men, and also is a sensible mode of compelling that 
 class, who alone In the long run make money by race- 
 betting, to contribute to the endowment of racing. It 
 Is notorious In England that thousands of acres and 
 many thousands of pounds, nay, many great fortunes, 
 are being swallowed up by the bookmakers in every 
 decade of years, and yet these gentry pay on the same 
 principle as the general public, at whose cost they 
 wear purple and fine linen and feast sumptuously 
 every day. 
 
 In the evening I assisted at a grand dinner given by 
 my friend Mr. Evarts. Sir James Hannen, Sir Ar- 
 
220 A Month in the United States 
 
 thur Hobhouse, and myself were the only foreigners. 
 The company was principally made up of lawyers and 
 judges with a few civilians thrown in. 
 
 It was a bright, cheery, and In every way pleasant 
 party, and It was late before we left the steps of our 
 entertaining host. 
 
G 
 
 APPENDIX 
 
 BY THOMAS F. MEEHAN, A.M. 
 
 REATLY as he marveled at all he saw in the 
 Northwest during his trip in 1883, one can 
 not help thinking how much greater would be his 
 amazement could Lord Russell return and make the 
 same trip to-day. The Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Ex- 
 position of the summer of 1909, at Seattle, drew the 
 attention of the people of the United States specially 
 to the wonders and progress of the Pacific Coast. 
 
 At the inaugural ceremonies of the Seattle Exposi- 
 tion James J. Hill, the great railroad magnate of the 
 Northwest, forcefully insisted on the fact that the 
 growth resulting from the building of new railways 
 is similar to that produced by the introduction of 
 irrigation. A survey of conditions presented to-day 
 at the points mentioned in Lord Russell's diary, and 
 those he found there during his journey in 1883, will 
 aptly serve as a confirmation of this statement. 
 
 Admitted to the Federal Union on November 11, 
 1889, the great agricultural State of Washington has 
 developed out of the then fallow Territory, and 
 keeping pace with its marvelous industrial and com- 
 mercial expansion we find Oregon and Idaho. Spo- 
 kane, a city of more than 60,000 inhabitants, where 
 eight railroads enter, in 1880 was but an Indian trad- 
 ing post round which less than 400 people clustered. 
 
22 2 Appendix 
 
 The completion of the Northern Pacific gave it new 
 hfe and started it on the road to its present prosper- 
 ity. Tacoma, then almost unknown, is a great man- 
 ufacturing and industrial city of 110,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Seattle is a metropolis built in a generation. In 
 1880 it included within its limited area 3,533 peo- 
 ple; in 1890, 42,837; in 1900, 80,000; and to-day 
 probably it has 250,000. Four transcontinental rail- 
 roads make it a huge forwarder of freights and the 
 centre of an enormous trade to Japan and the East. 
 Its harbor, Elliott Bay, has become a leading ocean 
 port, where the whole American fleet could anchor. 
 
 In 1904 on its banks the battleship Nebraska was 
 launched. Built originally on a hill, modern engineer- 
 ing is accomplishing one of its most astounding feats 
 In changing the grade of the city's twenty-one miles 
 of streets. To level the hill and make convenient 
 ways for traffic, fourteen million cubic yards of earth 
 have to be moved, with a maximum cut of one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet, and a minimum fill of fifty- 
 four feet, a process which, it is claimed, involves the 
 carriage of more ground than any other modern un- 
 dertaking except the Panama Canal. The tide flats 
 of thirty years ago have been filled in and are now the 
 heart of the business district, covered with railroad 
 terminals, factories, and warehouses. Intellectual 
 life has also quickened and expanded along all the 
 lines of progressive citizenship. 
 
 Magnificent as has all this material development 
 proved, It In no sense exceeds what has been accom- 
 
Appendix 223 
 
 plished by the Church throughout the same territory, 
 during the period that has elapsed since 1883. The 
 figures presented by the Catholic statistics to-day, in 
 comparison with those of 1883, are as notable as 
 any of those in the commercial or industrial expan- 
 sion. When Lord Russell visited this section Wash- 
 ington Territory comprised the Diocese of Nes- 
 qually, established May 31, 1850, as a suffragan of 
 the Province of Oregon, which included besides Ore- 
 gon, Idaho, Vancouver Island, and Alaska. The 
 Metropolitan was the martyr Archbishop Charles J. 
 Seghers, who was assassinated by a degenerate half- 
 breed on November 28, 1886. Bishop iEgidius Jun- 
 ger, who died December 26, 1889, presided over 
 Nesqually, and had his Cathedral at Vancouver. Un- 
 der his jurisdiction were about 25 priests, who at- 
 tended 30 churches and 64 stations. Seattle, Ta- 
 coma, and Spokane had one church each. Schools 
 and institutions under Catholic management were al- 
 most unknown outside Vancouver. 
 
 The name of the diocese and its see were changed 
 to Seattle September 11, 1907, and it now has 131 
 priests, of whom 52 are members of regular orders 
 and congregations; 169 churches, 157 stations, 67 
 chapels; 6 colleges and academies for boys, 18 acad- 
 emies for girls; 13 hospitals; 5 orphan asylums, 
 5 homes for the poor, and a Catholic population of 
 85,000. 
 
 In addition there have been created the new dio- 
 ceses of Baker City, 1903; Boise, 1893; Great Falls, 
 
2 24 Appendix 
 
 Montana, 1904; Helena, Montana, 1884, and the 
 Prefecture Apostolic of Alaska, 1894. Within their 
 jurisdiction are 100,000 Catholics, 135 priests, and 
 180 churches. 
 
 Idaho in 1883 had 10 priests and churches, and 
 about 3,000 Catholics, of whom more than half were 
 Indians. It was a vicariate and the priests Jesuit 
 missionaries. Dakota was also a vicariate with 36 
 priests and about 50 churches. It now has four 
 dioceses, Fargo, 1889; Lead, 1892; Sioux Falls, 
 1896, and Bismarck, 19 10. Here there are 133,000 
 Catholics, 222 priests, and 202 churches. 
 
UNITED STATES CATHOLIC HISTORICAL 
 SOCIETY 
 
 Honorary President 
 Most Rev. John M. Farley, D.D. 
 
 President 
 Charles Geo. Herbermann, Ph.D.,LL.D.,Lit.D. 
 
 Vice-President 
 Stephen Farrelly 
 
 Treasurer 
 Richard S. Treacy, A.B. 
 
 Recording Secretary 
 John E. Cahalan, A.M. 
 
 Corresponding Secretary 
 Joseph H. Fargis, LL.B. 
 
 Librarian 
 Rev. M. J. Considine 
 
 Trustees \ . 
 
 Rt. Rev. Mgr. Joseph F. Mooney, V.G. 
 
 Rt. Rev. Mgr. James H. McGean, LL.D. 
 
 Henry Heide 
 
 Peter Condon, A.M. 
 
 Thomas S. O'Brien, LL.D. 
 
 Thomas F. Woodlock, LL.D. 
 
 Thomas F. Meehan, A.M. 
 
 225 
 
226 Officers 
 
 Councillors 
 
 Hon. Edward B. Amend, LL.D. 
 
 William R. King 
 
 Rev. Thomas J. Campbell, S.J. 
 
 Edward J. McGuire, LL.B. 
 
 Andrew J. Shipman, LL.B. 
 
 Rev. Joseph F. Delany, D.D. 
 
 Editing Committee 
 
 Charles George Herbermann, LL.D., 
 
 LiT.D., Ph.D. 
 
 Rev. Michael J. Considine 
 
 Rev. Joseph F. Delany, D.D. 
 
 Thomas F. Meehan, A.M. 
 
MEMBERS 
 
 Adams, Samuel 
 Adams, T. Albeus 
 Adikes, John 
 Agar, John G. 
 Ahearn, Jeremiah 
 Almirall, Raymond F. 
 Amberg, William A. 
 Amend, Hon. Edw. B. 
 Amend, William J. 
 Amy, Alfred V. 
 AspELL, Dr. John 
 Bainton, Dr. Joseph H. 
 Bartley, Rev. James 
 
 R. 
 Baumer, Francis 
 Bennett, William H. 
 Benziger, Bruno 
 Benziger, Louis G. 
 Benziger, Nicholas C. 
 Berge, Edward W. 
 
 BlERSMITH, E. L. 
 
 Binsse, Henry B. 
 Bister, John 
 Blake, Rev. W. L. 
 Blandford, p. a. 
 Blenk, Most Rev. 
 
 James H., D.D. 
 BoGAN, Rev. B. M. 
 BoNAcuM, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Thomas, D.D. 
 
 BORNEMANN, ReV. GeO. 
 
 BoYLAN, Rev. John F. 
 Brady, Rev. John F. 
 Brann, Very Rev. 
 Mgr. Henry A., D.D. 
 
 Brennan, Alfred T.V. 
 
 Brennan, John 
 
 Breslin, Rev. P. N. 
 
 Briody, Rev. John H. 
 
 Bristed, C. a. 
 
 Britt, Hon. Philip J. 
 
 Broderick, Daniel I. 
 
 Brophy, W. H. 
 
 Brown, W. J. 
 
 Brune, Very Rev. F. J. 
 
 Burke, Edmond 
 
 Burke, Rev. John J., 
 C.S.P. 
 
 Burke, Rt. Rev. Thos. 
 M. A., D.D. 
 
 Burtsell, John M. 
 
 Burtsell, Very Rev. 
 Mgr. R. L., D.D. 
 
 Butler, James 
 
 Byrne, Rev. Christo- 
 pher E. 
 
 Byrne, Miss Eliza- 
 beth M. 
 
 Byrne, James 
 
 Byrne, Rt. Rev. W., 
 D.D. 
 
 Caffrey, J. J. 
 
 Cahalan, John E. 
 
 Callahan, Cornelius 
 
 Callan, Rev. M. S. 
 
 Callanan, L. J. 
 
 Campbell, Rev. Jos. C. 
 
 Campbell, Rev. Thos. 
 J., S.J. 
 
 Carey, Rev. P. P. 
 
 227 
 
228 
 
 Members 
 
 Carroll, John C. 
 Carroll, John F. 
 Carroll, P. P. 
 Casey, A. J. 
 Chase, Miss Maud E. 
 Chazal, Louis R. 
 Chidvvick, Very Rev. 
 
 John P. 
 Chute, Mrs. S. H. 
 Clare, Miss Mary E. 
 Clare, William F. 
 Clark, Rev. Arthur 
 
 March 
 Clark, William B. 
 Claude, Rev. Capis- 
 
 TRAN, O.M.Cap 
 COCKRAN, Wm. BoURKE 
 
 CoHALAN, Daniel F. 
 
 Coleman, Chas. W. 
 
 Coleman, Rev. Thos. J. 
 
 Collins, Very Rev. 
 Mgr. Chas. W. 
 
 CoLTON, Rt. Rev. Chas. 
 H., D.D. 
 
 CoNATY, Rt. Rev. Thos. 
 J., D.D. 
 
 Condon, Martin 
 
 Condon, Peter 
 
 Connolly, Rev. Ar- 
 thur T. 
 
 Connolly, Very Rev. 
 Mgr. James N. 
 
 Conroy, Charles C. 
 
 Considine, Rev. M. J. 
 
 Cooke, A. S. 
 
 CoRLEY, Rev. Charles 
 R. 
 
 Cotter, Rev. James H. 
 
 CoYLE, John J. 
 
 CoYTE, James Slater 
 
 Crimmins, Hon. John 
 D. 
 
 Cronin, Rev. Daniel 
 T. 
 
 Crossey, Rev. John J. 
 
 Crowne, J. Vincent 
 
 CuLLEN, Thos. F. 
 
 CuLLUM, Rev. Hugh P. 
 
 CuNNiON, Rev. D. C. 
 
 CuNNiON, Frank 
 
 CuNNioN, Rev. Ma- 
 lick A. 
 
 CURLEY, T. F. 
 Curry, Edward J. 
 CusACK, Rt. Rev. Thos. 
 
 F., D.D. 
 Daly, Daniel 
 Daly, Hon. Joseph F. 
 Davey, H. J. 
 Deery, John J. 
 DeGot, Mrs. Camille 
 Deitsch, Miss 
 Delaney, John J. 
 Delany, Rev. Dr. Tos. 
 
 F. 
 Delehanty, F. B. 
 DeRoo, Rev. P. 
 Devine, Thomas J. 
 Devoy, John W. 
 DiETz, Nicholas 
 Dillon, Rev. Francis J. 
 Dillon, Joseph 
 Dineen, Rev. Jos. P. 
 Dixon, Robert N. 
 DoELGER, Peter 
 DoLLARD, James J. 
 
Members 
 
 229 
 
 Donahue, Rt. Rev. 
 
 P. J, D.D. 
 Donnelly, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. E. J., V.F. 
 
 DONOGHUE, F. X. 
 
 DoNOHUE, Daniel 
 
 DoNOHUE, Rev. Jos. P. 
 
 DooDY, Rev. Daniel 
 
 Dooley, M. F. 
 
 Dougherty, James E. 
 
 Dowling, Austin 
 
 DowLiNG, Hon. Vic- 
 tor J. 
 
 Doyle, Alfred 
 
 Doyle, John F. 
 
 Doyle, John F., Jr. 
 
 Driscoll, Rev. John T. 
 
 Drummond, Louis E.A. 
 
 Drummond,MichaelJ. 
 
 DucEY, Michael H. 
 
 Duffy, Rev. Francis P. 
 
 Duffy, James P. B. 
 
 Duffy, Rev. Thos. F. 
 
 DuTTON, Joseph 
 
 DwYER, Dr. John 
 
 Early, Rev. Terence J. 
 
 Edwards, Rt. Rev. 
 Mgr. John 
 
 Egan, Peter 
 
 Emmet, Dr. Thomas 
 Addis 
 
 Falahee, John J. 
 
 Fanning, William J. 
 
 Fargis, Joseph H. 
 
 Farley, Most Rev. 
 John M., D.D. 
 
 Farley, Terence 
 
 Farrell, Edward D. 
 
 Farrell, Rev. Her- 
 bert F. 
 
 Farrelly, Stephen 
 
 Farrelly, T. C. 
 
 Feehan, Rt. Rev. D. 
 F., D.D. 
 
 Feitner, Thomas L. 
 
 Fenlon, John T. 
 
 Ferrer, Dr. Jose M. 
 
 Ferris, James J. 
 
 FiNLAY, Sidney J. 
 
 Fitzgerald, Hon. Jas. 
 F. 
 
 Fitzgerald, Rev. Thos. 
 P. 
 
 FitzMaurice,Rt. Rev. 
 John E., D.D. 
 
 Fitzpatrick, Rev. Ma- 
 lick J. 
 
 Flannelly, Rev. Jos. F. 
 
 Flood, Rev. Mgr. 
 James J. 
 
 Floyd-Jones, G. Stan- 
 ton 
 
 Fogarty, Thomas 
 
 Fornes, Charles V. 
 
 Fox, John 
 
 Fox, Patrick J. 
 
 FoY, Rev. Francis A. 
 
 Franciscan Fathers 
 
 Franklin, Joseph 
 
 Frawley, Hon. Jas. J. 
 
 Frawley, Rev. John J. 
 
 Friel, John J. 
 
 Fuller, Paul 
 
 Gabriels, Rt. Rev. 
 Henry, D.D. 
 
 Gannon, Frank S. 
 
230 
 
 Metnbers 
 
 Garvan, Patrick 
 Gassler, Rev. Leo 
 Gibbon, John T. 
 Gibbons, His Eminence 
 
 James Cardinal 
 GiLLERAN, Thomas 
 Gleason, Rev. J. M. 
 Goessmann, Miss 
 
 Helen 
 GoGGiN, Rev. Jas. E. 
 Goodwin, Frank J. 
 Gorman, Denis J. 
 
 GOTTSBERGER, FrANCIS 
 
 Grady, Hon. Thos. F. 
 Grady, Walter L. 
 GuERTiN, Rt. Rev.G.A. 
 GuiNEVAN, Rev. Peter 
 
 F. 
 Gummersbach, Joseph 
 Haggerty, J, Henry 
 Halloran, John H. 
 Hamilton, Wm. Peter 
 Hannan, John 
 Hannon, Lindley a. 
 Hanrahan, Rev.Jas.V. 
 Harper, John J. 
 Harrington, Rev. W. 
 
 H. 
 Harris, Charles N. 
 Hartford, Geo. H. 
 Hayes, Cady 
 Hayes, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 P. J., V.G. 
 Healy, Rev. Gabriel 
 
 A. 
 Hearn, Rev. David W., 
 
 S.J. 
 Heide, Henry 
 
 Heide, William F. 
 
 Hellman, Henry 
 
 Hendrick, Hon. Peter 
 A. 
 
 Hennessy, D. J. 
 
 Herbermann, Alex- 
 ander J. 
 
 Herbermann, Prof. 
 Chas. G. 
 
 Herbermann, Henry 
 
 Herin, William O. 
 
 HicKEY, Rev. David J. 
 
 HicKEY, John J. 
 
 HicKEY, Rev. John J. 
 
 HiCKEY, Rev. W. D. 
 
 HiGGiNS, Francis 
 
 HiMMEL, Rev. Joseph, 
 
 S.J. 
 HoEY, Rev. J. L. 
 Hoffmann, Thos. A. 
 
 HOLTZMAN, L. F. 
 
 HoLwicK, Rev. F. G. 
 Hopkins, John A. 
 Howard, Rev. Jas. J. 
 Hughes, Rev. J. T. 
 Hughes, Rev. W. F., 
 
 D.D. 
 hussey, j. b. 
 Hurley, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 Edw. F. 
 Jordan, John 
 Joyce, Michael J. 
 Kean, Rev. John J. 
 Keane^ James R. 
 Keane, Most Rev. 
 
 John J., D.D. 
 Kearney, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. John F. 
 
Members 
 
 231 
 
 Kellner, Rev. J. A. 
 Kelly, Dr. Charles J. 
 Kelly, Mrs. Hugh 
 Kelly, Rev. Joseph S. 
 Kelly, Thomas H. 
 Kennedy, Thos. F. 
 Kennelly, Bryan L. 
 Kent, John S. 
 Keresey, John T. 
 
 KlELTY, M. J. 
 
 KiERAN, Joseph N. 
 KiERNAN, Patrick 
 King, Percy J. 
 King, William R. 
 Klauder, Rev. Francis 
 
 E., C.SS.R. 
 Lafort, Rev. Remy 
 Lamarche, Henry J. 
 Lammel, Very Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Anthony 
 Lane, Rev. John I. 
 Lavelle, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 M.J. 
 Lawler, Joseph A. 
 Leahy, John J. 
 Leary, Thomas J. 
 Lenane, Thomas 
 Lennon, Rev. Jas. D. 
 Leonard, Rev. Edw. F. 
 Lewis, James M. 
 Librarian, Boston 
 
 Public Library 
 Linehan, Paul H. 
 Lings, Very Rev. A. A. 
 Livingston, Rev. Wm. 
 LoNARGAN, Rev. John 
 
 P. 
 LouBAT, Joseph F. 
 
 Ludden, Rt. Rev. P. A., 
 
 D.D. 
 Lummis, William 
 Lynch, James 
 Lynch, James D. 
 Lynch, James F. 
 Lynch, Dr. J. B. 
 Lynch, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 J. S. M., D.D. 
 Lyons, Jere C. 
 McAleer, Rev. P. P. 
 McAnerney, John P. 
 McBride, T. J. 
 McCaffrey, John B., 
 
 M.D. 
 McCall, Hon. Edw. 
 
 E. 
 McCarten, Mrs. Eliz- 
 abeth C. 
 McCarten, Michael 
 
 K. 
 McClure, David 
 McClure, Rev. Wm. J. 
 McCoRMACK, Frank J. 
 McCoRMiCK, James W. 
 McCready, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Chas. J. 
 McCue, Rev. E. J. 
 McCusker, p. J. 
 McDonnell, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Chas. E., D.D. 
 McElderry, Vincent 
 
 J. 
 
 McElroy, Mrs. Wm. 
 
 B. 
 McFaul, Rt. Rev. Jas. 
 
 A., D.D. 
 McFee, John J., M.D. 
 
232 
 
 Members 
 
 McGare, Rev. Thos.F. 
 McGean, Edward J. 
 McGean, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. James H. 
 McGoLRicK, Very Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Edw. J. 
 McGovERN, James 
 McGuire, Edward J. 
 McGuiRE, Jos. Hubert 
 McHuGH, Rev.JohnB. 
 McKenna, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Edward 
 McKenna, Thomas P. 
 McLouGHLiN, Miss 
 
 Mary J. 
 McLouGHLiN, Wm. 
 McMahon, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. D. J. 
 McMahon, James 
 McMahon, John B., 
 
 M.D. 
 McMahon, Rev. Dr. 
 
 Joseph H. 
 McNaboe, James M. 
 McNamara, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. p. J. 
 McNamee, John 
 McParlan, Edw. C. 
 McParland, John E. 
 McPartland, Stephen 
 
 J- 
 
 Madden, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 John T. 
 Maguire, James D. 
 Maguire, Rev. Wm. J. 
 Maher, Rev. J. J., cm. 
 Maloney, Martin 
 Maloney, Maurice T. 
 
 Manhattan College 
 
 Martin, James J. 
 
 Mayo, Hon. John B. 
 
 Meany, Edward, M.D. 
 
 Meehan, Thomas F. 
 
 Meenan, Rev. Wm. B. 
 
 Meister, Rev. Isidore 
 
 Messmer, Most Rev. 
 S. G., D.D. 
 
 Meyer, Rev. Henry J. 
 
 Miller, Rev. Wm. C. 
 
 Mitchell, John J. 
 
 MoFFiT, William H. 
 
 Monks, John, Jr. 
 
 MooNEY, Rt. Rev. 
 Mgr. Joseph F. 
 
 Morrell, Mrs. Edw. 
 
 Morris, Rt. Rev. John 
 B. 
 
 Morris, Rev. John J. 
 
 MosHER, Thomas 
 
 Mother Superior, 
 Academy Mt. St. Vin- 
 cent 
 
 Mother Superior, 
 Sisters of Charity 
 
 MoYNAHAN, Barthol- 
 omew 
 
 Moynahan, Thomas B. 
 
 MuLGREW, James T. 
 
 MuLLALY, John 
 
 MuLLANY, Bernard J. 
 
 MuLLANY, Rev. J. F. 
 
 Mltllen, Rev. J. J. 
 
 MuLQUEEN, Hon. Jos. 
 F. 
 
 Mulqueen, Michael J. 
 
 MuLRY, Thomas M. 
 
Members 
 
 233 
 
 Murphy, Edward 
 Murphy, James J. 
 Murphy, Miss Nora 
 Murphy, Very Rev. 
 
 Mgr. W. G. 
 Murphy, Rev. Thomas 
 
 E., S.J. 
 Murphy, Rev. W. H. 
 Murray, Charles 
 MuRRiN, James B. 
 Myhan, Rev. Thos. F. 
 Nageleisen, Rev. J. A. 
 Neagle, Rev. Richard 
 Neill, Charles P. 
 Nolan, James 
 Nolan, Rev. John A. 
 NooNAN, Rev. James E. 
 Noonan, John 
 Norris, Rev. John W. 
 Norris, Rev. Joseph I., 
 
 D.D. 
 O'Brien, Edward J. 
 O'Brien, Very Rev. F. 
 
 A., LL.D. 
 O'Brien, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 John 
 O'Brien, Dr. John J. 
 O'Brien, Miles M. 
 O'Brien, Hon. Mor- 
 gan J. 
 O'Brien, Thomas S. 
 O'Callaghan, Rt. Rev. 
 
 T. A., D.D. 
 O'Connell, Rt. Rev. 
 
 D. J., D.D. 
 O'Connell, John 
 O'Connor, Harold H. 
 O'Connor. P. 
 
 O'Connor, Rt. Rev. 
 
 John J., D.D. 
 O'Connor, Thomas H. 
 O'Connor, William P. 
 O'DoNOGHUE, Mrs. Jos. 
 
 J. 
 
 O'DoNOHUE, Louis V. 
 O'Flaherty, Wm. p. 
 O'Gorman, Hon. James 
 
 A. 
 O'Gorman, Richard J. 
 O'Gorman, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Thomas, D.D. 
 Ohligschloger, J. B. 
 O'Keefe, Rev. John J. 
 O'Keefe, Rev. T. M. 
 O'Keeffe, John G. 
 Olcott, Mrs. Dr. 
 O'Leary, Miss Mary 
 O'Leary, Rev. P. J. 
 O'Marra, Rev. Pat'k 
 
 A. 
 O'Meara, Stephen 
 O'Neil, Rev. Denis P. 
 O'Rourke, Jeremiah 
 Orr, William C. 
 O'SuLLivAN, Charles 
 o'sullivan, j. d. 
 Owens, Joseph E. 
 Pallen, Conde B. 
 Penny, Very Rev. Wm. 
 
 L. 
 Perry, Charles J. 
 Pettit, Rev. Geo., S.J. 
 Phelan, Rev. Thos. P. 
 Philbin, Eugene A. 
 Prendergast, Jas. M. 
 Prendergast, Wm. A. 
 
234 
 
 Members 
 
 Pres. of Trustees of 
 St. Patrick's Cathe- 
 dral. 
 
 Prior of St. Benedict's 
 Abbey 
 
 PuLLEYN, John J. 
 
 Pyne, Rev. William 
 
 QuiNLAN, Francis J., 
 M.D. 
 
 Quinn, Rev. Daniel a. 
 
 Quinn, Rev. Daniel J., 
 
 sj. 
 
 Rainer, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 Joseph 
 Ramsay, Clarence J. 
 Redemptorist Fathers 
 Redwood, Most Rev. 
 
 Francis, D.D. 
 Reid, Rev. Charles F. 
 Reilly, F. James 
 Reville, Philip E. 
 RiCHTER, Rt. Rev. H. 
 
 J., D.D. 
 Ridder, Henry 
 Ridder, Herman 
 RiTz, August N. 
 Robinson, George B. 
 rodgers, j. c. 
 Roe, J. A. 
 Rooney, J. A. 
 Routt, Harvey J. 
 RuDGE, George, Jr. 
 Russell, Rev. Wm. T. 
 Ryan, Mrs. Joseph T. 
 Ryan, Thomas F. 
 Ryan, William T. 
 Salter, Rev. J. B. 
 Sasseen, R. a. 
 
 ScHAEKEN, Rev. Al- 
 
 PHONSUS M. H. 
 
 ScHAEFER, Joseph 
 Schaeffler, Frank 
 Shea, Robert M. 
 Schinner, Rt. Rev. A. 
 
 F., D.D. 
 Schirmer, Charles J. 
 ScHOPP, Adam A. 
 ScHREMBS, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Joseph 
 Scott, Joseph 
 Scully, Rev. Patrick 
 
 F. 
 Scully, P. J. 
 Shahan, Very Rev. 
 
 Thomas J. 
 Sheahan, Rev. J. F. 
 Sheedy, Bryan D., 
 
 M.D. 
 Sheppard, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Mgr. John A. 
 Sherer, J. P. 
 Shipman, Andrew J. 
 Shriver, C. C. 
 Shriver, T. Herbert 
 Silo, James P. 
 Slater, John 
 Sloane, Charles W. 
 Sloane, Dr. Thomas 
 
 O'Conor 
 Smith, Bryan 
 Smith, James 
 Smith, Rev. James J. 
 Smith, John T. 
 Smith, Rev. Joseph F. 
 Spalding, Rt. Rev. J. 
 
 L., D.D. 
 
Members 
 
 235 
 
 Spillane, Rev. Edw. 
 
 P., SJ. 
 Sullivan, J. H. 
 Superior, Convent St. 
 
 Joseph (Brentwood) 
 Sweeny, Rev. Edwin M. 
 Taaffe, Very Rev. 
 
 Mgr. Thomas 
 Taaffe, Thomas Gaff- 
 
 NEY 
 
 Tack, Theodore E. 
 
 Talley, Alfred J. 
 
 Taylor,Rev. Matthew 
 A. 
 
 Ternan, Gerald B. 
 
 Thebaud, Paul G. 
 
 Theresa, Sister Vin- 
 cent 
 
 Thompson, T. P. 
 
 Thornton, Rev. Thos. 
 A. 
 
 Thuille, Rev. Jos. M. 
 
 Tierney, Rev. Edw. J. 
 
 TiERNEY, Henry J. 
 
 Tierney, Myles 
 
 TiERNEY, Dr. Myles J. 
 
 Toohill, Rev. John 
 William 
 
 Towle, p. J. 
 
 Travers, Vincent P. 
 
 Treacy, Richard S. 
 
 Tully, James M. 
 
 Van Antwerp, Rev. 
 Francis J. 
 
 Varnagiris, Vincent 
 
 v., Ph.D. 
 Verdaguer, Rt. Rev. 
 
 Peter, Vic. Apost. 
 Wade, Joseph H. 
 Wall, Rt. Rev. Mgr. 
 
 Francis H., D.D. 
 Walsh, Rt. Rev. Louis 
 
 S., D.D. 
 Walsh, Richard L. 
 Walshe, Rev. R. F. 
 Walters, Charles F. 
 Webber, Charles A. 
 Weir, Rev. John F. 
 Whalen, Grover M. 
 White, W. F. 
 White, Dr. Whitman 
 
 V. 
 Wienker, Very Rev. 
 
 H. Clement 
 WiLMER, Very Rev. 
 
 Antoninus, O.M. 
 
 Cap. 
 WooDLOCK, Thos. F., 
 Woods, Rev. Joseph, 
 
 S.J. 
 Wright, Francis E. 
 Wucher, Rev. Theo- 
 
 PHILE, S.M.P. 
 
 Wynne, Rev. John J., 
 
 S.J. 
 Yawman, p. H. 
 ZwiNGE, Rev. Joseph, 
 
 S.J. 
 
C 310 88 
 
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