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 { UNITED STATES OK AMERICA. | 
 
HAND-BOOK 
 
 FRUIT GROWERS, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A SHORT HISTORY OF FRUITS AND THEIR VALUE IN- 
 STRUCTIONS AS TO SOILS AND LOCATIONS HOW TO 
 
 GROW FROM SEEDS HOW TO BUD AND GRAFT 
 
 THE MAKING OF CUTTINGS PRUNING BEST 
 
 AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC., ETC. 
 
 WITH A 
 
 CONDENSED LIST OF VARIETIES SUITED TO CLIMATE. 
 
 (illustrated.) 
 
 Made for Those Who Qrow Fruit for Their Own Use. 
 a T) BY F.; R. ELLIOTT, 
 
 AUTHOR OF " WESTERN FRUIT GROWERS' GUIDE." 
 
 -++■+- 
 
 v 
 
 ROCHESTER, N. Y. : 
 
 D. M. DEWEY, PUBLISHER, ARCADE. 
 
 1876. 
 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, 
 
 By D. M. DEWEY, 
 
 In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 
 
 
 C. H. STUMP & CO., 
 Printers, 
 Reynolds' Arcade, Rochester. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The preparation of the pages in this work have been in- 
 stigated by a long time attention to the wants of those 
 who yearly plant out fruit trees, vines and plants. 
 
 Visiting our yearly gatherings of men throughout the 
 country at the local, county and state agricultural and 
 horticultural societies' meetings, together with the fact 
 that not an editor of a journal, more or less devoted to 
 the improvement of rural life, and as aid thereto, gives 
 items touching of fruit, etc., but is almost daily in re- 
 ceipt of questions touching the "How and when to 
 plant ? " " What varieties to use ? ' ' has brought us to write 
 as plainly and practically as possible, and within a scale 
 that may be sold at a price to meet the pocket of every 
 man who desires to plant trees or vines in his ground, look- 
 ing forward to their producing him valuable fruit, to min- 
 ister as food toward health and longevity of life. 
 
 The works of Downing, Thomas, Bakrv and others, 
 while embracing the whole matter, yet require an outlay 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 of money, which we hope the reader of our pages herein 
 will find equally to his interest, and at a small pecuniary 
 cost. 
 
 To those who can afford to buy the three to five dollar 
 book, we say, do so; but the work we now present you 
 may be placed in the hand of any novice connected with 
 tree planting, and enable him to plant and trim a tree or 
 vine in such manner that it will prove a success. 
 
HISTORY AND VALUE OF FRUITS. 
 
 With the limited space given us by the publisher, we can 
 but draw a few words touching the first of fruits, and the 
 progress thereof to the present day. 
 
 As we read outside of the Bible, we find that more 
 than 6,000 years ago the grape, apple, pear, peach, apri- 
 cot and plum were grown. Even then the art of grafting 
 was known, but the world had not then its many millions, 
 as now, nor was a legitimate knowledge of reading and 
 writing, among the masses of the people, then prevalent 
 as at this time. 
 
 From the first of our biblical teaching, we learn that 
 the apple was a feature connected with humanity ; and so 
 in every section of country and climate we find fruits, 
 natural to the clime, are part and parcel of the food of 
 the people. 
 
 When the first settlers of this country landed — say in 
 1500 — they brought with them seeds of the apple, pear, 
 etc., and many cuttings of vines and flowering plants, 
 which they hoped could be grown in the land of their 
 adoption. Fortunately, at that time, the forest was such 
 as to break the storms, and leaves were so abundant, that 
 they could protect the young plants, which soon took 
 root in the rich, natural, vegetable loam. 
 
6 HISTORY AND VALUK OF FRUITS. 
 
 Soon Virginia and other southern localities of this 
 country were settled, and the growths of their clime came 
 almost super-natural, to the supply of food for mankind. 
 Little by little transportation and communication came 
 between the north and south of what is now the United 
 States of America, and with it has progressed every spe- 
 cies and variety of fruit and its culture. 
 
 We have had, during the past century, many enthu- 
 siastic workers in the fruit and flower line, — those who 
 faithfully believed in advocating to those about to plant, 
 a careful study and knowledge from practical men in the 
 growth of tree and fruit. 
 
 Our limits, taking in what we want to write practically, 
 of how to grow, etc., will not permit us to enumerate by 
 name the many men who have labored in the act practi- 
 cally, and writing mentally toward the advance of fruit 
 culture. Suffice it to say, that not a state north, east, 
 south or west but has one or more names long to be 
 remembered by every man woman or child who resides 
 outside of the dingy, narrow streets and dirty alleys and 
 air of a city. 
 
 " God made the country — man made the town ; " please 
 take this old truth daily before you in thought, to a perfect 
 digestion. 
 
 Ere I leave this chapter I must quote from one of the 
 men who knew, believed in, and worked up his subject. 
 Doctor J. A. Kennicott, of Illinois, wrote as follows: 
 
 "The free use of ripe fruits not only prevents disease, 
 but their regulated enjoyment helps to remove that which 
 already exists. All ripe fruits are also more or less nutri- 
 
SOILS AND LOCATIONS. 7 
 
 tious. It has been clearly demonstrated that the apple 
 is superior to the potato in the principles that go to in- 
 crease the muscle and brain of man ; and in fattening 
 properties it is nearly equal to any other food. Ripe 
 grapes have cured epidemic dysentery. Families, where 
 fruits are most plentiful, and ripened good, are most free 
 from disease of all kinds, especially from fevers and bowel 
 complaints. Most fruits aid digestion ; some directly and 
 some indirectly, and their free use lessens the desire for 
 alcohol or other stimulents. The juicy ones act as dilu- 
 ents, and all as diuretics, the free acids neutralizing the 
 earth v matters in the blood." 
 
 SOILS AND LOCATIONS BEST ADAPTED. 
 
 The above heading, in the growing of fruits, has many 
 and multiple of views by those who have given their record 
 in the meetings of agricultural and pomological societies. 
 The whole, however, rests in the fact that the tree must 
 have its roots where there is an under current of moist- 
 ure, that can be taken up by the tap or lower roots, in 
 times of dry atmosphere and lack of moisture upon the 
 surface. Again, the tree must not be situate in a low val- 
 ley, or confined air space, without an underground drain- 
 age, for here the cold is increased, and added to the 
 moisture of the valley, is often five to seven or ten de- 
 grees of Fahrenheit below that of the high ground adjoin- 
 
8 SOILS AND LOCATIONS. 
 
 ing. The apple called Grimes' Golden, or Grimes' Golden 
 Pippin, originated upon a high, well drained, limestone 
 point, and is recorded for years of bearing a fine, high 
 flavored fruit. To-day it has no favor on average soils 
 and locations as a general fruit crop, and has only a single 
 star, each of three states, in the American Pomological 
 Society's transactions, 1873. 
 
 Some of the most valuable orchards known stand on 
 elevated situations, with what is generally termed a thin, 
 light, loamy soil, resting upon a basis of rock. In such 
 positions the trees do not grow as rapidly as in deeper 
 and richer soils, but they become fruitful sooner, and 
 continue a long and productive life. 
 
 Thorough drainage in all cases is essential to healthy 
 growth of tree and productiveness. Aspect is also a 
 material circumstance, and should be modified by the 
 climate and variety of fruit to be grown. A peach orch- 
 ard will bear warmth better than one of the hardy, firm, 
 wooded varieties of apples, pears and plums. It is well 
 for the planter to study the position whereon he intends 
 to plant, and ere deciding upon positions for certain trees, 
 look over the surrounding country, and note the success 
 or failure of others who have gone before him in the 
 work. According as this is adapted to the growth of the 
 variety planted, will be his success.. It is not policy to 
 stimulate trees into growing luxuriently, by means of 
 manures; a healthy, steady, yearly growth, ripening the 
 wood perfectly, forms the most permanent orchard. 
 
HOW TO GROW FROM SEED. 
 
 The saving of Seeds — From what they should 
 
 BE TAKEN. 
 
 It is a mooted point, even in this intelligent age, as 
 to whether certain improvements in the varieties of fruits 
 can be had by taking the seed of some one really good 
 variety, that is surrounded by or near to other equally 
 good varieties, and from their natural impregnations 
 come, or whether artificial impregnation of one variety 
 upon another of distinct character, termed hybridizing, is 
 the best. The former, certainly, so far, has given the 
 most valuable results, but the process is one slower than 
 the latter, by which results can be shown in about one-half 
 the time. As we are now not writing a scientific treatise, 
 but trying to make plain, practical matter, by which he 
 who reads can practice ; and as we know that the arti- 
 ficial impregnation of one flower upon another of a dis- 
 tinct class is attended with a knowledge of time to study 
 and practice, we shall advise the growing from seed taken 
 carefully from some healthy, hardy tree, producing the 
 best of fruit, and which is surrounded by others of a 
 different yet good character. Ninety times out of a hun- 
 dred the seeds so gathered and sown have produced the 
 most successful results. 
 
IO HOW TO GROW FROM SEED. 
 
 We have read much of what has been done, but in all 
 cases we cannot speak confidently; but to-day believe our 
 best apples, pears, etc., have come from seeds void of 
 man's aid in their impregnation. We do know that Prof. 
 Jared Potter Kirtland, of Cleveland, Ohio, by taking 
 seeds of the cherry from one tree that was near to others 
 of different varieties, has produced varieties that to-day 
 rank as first class, not only in this country but in Eng- 
 land and France. Although we shall again name these 
 in our list of varieties to plant, let us name here of the 
 Kirtland cherries, the " Black Hawk," " Brant," " Deli- 
 cate," "Ohio Beauty," "Cleveland," " Rockport," and 
 
 Pontiac." This same amateur grower has produced 
 of the Tree Peony, varieties of greater beauty than any 
 we have received from abroad. 
 
 Having now said from what seeds varieties of fruits 
 should be grown, or the stocks used to graft or bud upon, 
 leaving the two or three lower limbs to show the fruit of 
 the seedling, we will say, that no fruit seed should ever 
 be permitted to get dry. It should be gathered, washed 
 cleanly, and then packed in light layers among clean sand 
 or charcoal dust, and kept free from heat or warmth, until 
 the ground in spring is warm enough to sprout vegetation. 
 The better and plain way of keeping the seed is to bury 
 the packages on the north side of a building, and covering 
 with three to four inches of earth. This keeps the seeds 
 dormant until time for planting in spring. The nut fruit 
 seeds, like peach and plum, had best be carefully cracked. 
 The cherry will open of itself, and should be first planted 
 in spring. 
 
BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING OF SORTS, 
 
 How to do it, — Also the best Season. 
 
 'The best age for transplanting apples, pears or plums 
 as standards — that is trees grown upon roots of their spe- 
 cific sorts, is at two years from the growth of the bud or 
 graft. The pear grown upon the quince, the apple upon 
 the Doucain or Paradise stock, the peach upon the plum, 
 the apricot and nectarine upon the plum, — should be 
 planted at one year from growth of bud or graft. 
 
 If the trees come from a nursery, not grown by yourself 
 and upon your own ground, — then ist, wet the package, 
 on receipt, before opening. 2d, dig a trench in some 
 light, dry soil, into which you can heel in the trees or 
 shrubs. Lay these trees at an angle of about forty-five 
 degrees, the tops at the south and so that the roots and 
 half the length of the bodies be covered with earth. The 
 roots eighteen inches deep, and the bodies ranging from 
 six to two inches as you go from the upper or crown roots 
 of the tree to the top. 
 
 Trees received in autumn too late for planting, throw 
 some brush over the whole and scatter thereon straw or 
 leaves, to shield from sun and cold during winter. 
 
12 BEST AGK FOR TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 Trees can be transplanted safely at any age, but in the 
 work there must be knowledge of the man who guides 
 it, as well as workmen careful of their work among the 
 roots. The old practice of moving trees by frozen balls 
 of roots caused by digging around in late autumn and 
 left to freeze, and be moved in mid-winter we have long 
 since abandoned, knowing that careful digging of the 
 roots and preserving them, either early in autumn or early 
 spring, the tree can be moved with better success and 
 less expense than the old ball handling. 
 
 The writer of this has moved trees — both deciduous 
 and evergreen — in mid-summer, without failure. The 
 growth of the season, however, must have formed and 
 ripened with a terminal bud, and when deciduous trees 
 were removed at that time, the foliage was all removed 
 by clipping it from the petiole half way to the bud. With 
 evergreens we clip back nearly all of the present year's 
 growth, leaving one bud only upon the wood of the 
 present year. 
 
 The best season to plant out, we may say, is very early 
 in autumn or early spring. Location and climate must, 
 however guide the rule. In the Southern States mid- 
 winter is the time. In the Southwest, March and April, 
 not later, is the time. In the temperate, or zone of most 
 of our hardy trees, early autumn for apple, pear and 
 plum; for peach, apricot, grape, nectarine, early, spring. 
 The North, as of Minnesota, Canada, etc., had best ob- 
 tain their trees in the autumn, heel them in as we have 
 described, and not plant until the ground is a little 
 warmed in spring. 
 
BEST AGE FOR TRANSPLANTING. 13 
 
 Ere we leave this chapter on planting, let us remind 
 those who plant, that the holes should be four inches 
 at least larger than the diameter of the roots ; that the 
 base center of the hole should be just a little crowning ; 
 that the roots should be carefully spread as they natur- 
 ally grow, and fine, rich earth — no manure — placed in 
 and around them, by the fingers of the hand outspread. 
 Place the tree so that its upper tier of roots will be cover- 
 ed four inches. Do not tread with the foot upon the loose 
 ground over the roots, for it only has a tendency to bend 
 them out of place, and a crooked root is sure to make a 
 crooked tree. The hand or spread finger pressure of 
 the earth firmly at the base of the tree will cause it to 
 stand firmly and never need" a stake or outside support. 
 The writer of this has planted thousands of trees from 
 one foot to forty feet in height, and never used a stake. 
 Mulching, with coarse manure at first, then in June with 
 fresh mown grass, a distance of say six feet diameter 
 around the body and over the roots is what is needed 
 the first year after transplanting. 
 
WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT, 
 Or make Cuttings or Layers. 
 
 Budding is a process of propagation of varieties ; so 
 also grafting and growing from cuttings or layers. There 
 are various modes of performing the work, and however 
 well we or other authors may describe it, we advise every 
 new beginner to visit a leading nurseryman or amateur 
 fruit grower in his immediate neighborhood, where he 
 can learn more in a half day of observation than all of 
 what is printed. In order to be successful, both the 
 stock and graft or bud should be in a healthy, vigorous 
 state. 
 
 The time to bud is generally with the cherry and plum, 
 in August following with pear, apple and peach. The 
 name of the month here specified is indicative of the sea- 
 son, and taken as a guide for the northern and middle 
 States. The grafting period is usually upon the ap- 
 proach of spring, but grafts, in large quantities are 
 made upon pieces of roots during winter and packed 
 away in sand to be planted in spring. 
 
 Cuttings of buds, for budding, may be made at any 
 time when the tree has formed its terminal buds of growth 
 for the year and the buds are ripe. 
 
WHEN AND HOW TO HUD OR GRAFT 
 
 15 
 
 Grafts may be taken from the tree or vine any time 
 after the leaf of the year has fallen, reference however 
 being had to the temperature of atmosphere, which 
 should never be below freezing. The various modes of 
 budding may be described as follows : 
 
 American Shield Budding, first described by Forsyth 
 in 1802. It differs from the common shield budding 
 only in leaving a small piece of wood at the base of the 
 bud inserted, instead of taking all out. An incision is 
 made lengthwise through the back of the stock, and a 
 small cut at right angles at the top, the whole somewhat 
 resembling the letter T . — (see fig. 3.) A bud is then 
 taken from a shoot of the present year's growth, by shav- 
 ing off the bark an inch or so in length, with a small part 
 of the wood directly beneath the bud. — (see fig. 4.) The 
 edges of the bark, at the incision in the stock, are then 
 raised a little — (see fig. 5,) and the bud pushed downward 
 under the bark. — (see fig. 6.) This work is generally 
 performed with what is termed a budding knife, one end 
 of the handle of which is of ivory or bone, and so smoothly 
 shaped that removing or loosening the bark to admit the 
 bud, does not injure the tender fibrous lines beneath. 
 
l6 WHEN AND HOW TO HUD OR GRAFT. 
 
 A bandage of bass bark — (from what is known as 
 Russia matting, or made from stripping of our Linden or 
 Bass-wood trees in the spring, and tempered into strips 
 by keeping it in water for a time,) is then wrapped around, 
 commencing at the bottom and passing the bud, returning 
 again and tying just below, covering all but the bud. — 
 (see fig. 7.) The pressure should be just sufficient to 
 keep the inserted portion closely to the stock, but not 
 such as to crush or bruise the bark. Woolen yarn, 
 or soft strips of old cotton cloth may be used as substi- 
 tutes for ties in place of the bass bark . 
 
 In about ten days or two weeks after insertion, the 
 strings or bandages will require to be loosened, and at 
 expiration of three weeks removed altogether. 
 
 The ensuing spring, as soon as the buds begin to 
 swell strongly, cut off the stock about six inches above 
 the bud ; and as the shoots of the bud grows, tie it with 
 any soft material to the piece of stock above its insertion, 
 until about mid-summer, or when it has made tw T o feet of 
 growth, when the stock should be cut away above the 
 bud — back of it, and leaving a sloping cut downward 
 from the top of the insertion of the bud. 
 
 When you are inserting buds, never put the bases of 
 the stems on which they are, in water. Keep them wrap- 
 ped in a damp cloth, free from the sun's influence. 
 Again, when you cut the shoots or buds for insertion, at 
 once cut away the leaf, otherwise the evaporation will ex- 
 haust and injure its vitality. 
 
 Buds, having the leaf removed, may be kept fresh and 
 full of vitality for a number of days, if placed in a cool 
 
WHEN AND HOW TO BUD OR GRAFT 
 
 17 
 
 room and wrapped in damp moss or cloths. If they are 
 to be mailed they should have damp moss wrapped around 
 them, and then be enveloped in oiled silk or linen. 
 
 Ring Budding is another style, adapted to hard wood 
 wood trees, as the chestnut, magnolia, etc. It is question- 
 able whether this is as good as side grafting, for which see 
 heading. In performing this a ring of bark is taken 
 from a limb or stock, and one of corresponding size, con- 
 taining a bud, is put in its place, (see fig. 8.) Trees 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 that have been girdled by mice or rabbits during winter, 
 may be restored by the process of simply putting in live 
 bark from a tree of its kind. Another way is to insert a 
 number of grafts early in spring, each cut with a sloping 
 cut on the inside at both ends, meeting with the albumen 
 or sap rising formation in the large limb or stock. 
 
 In either of these practices, the whole should be cover- 
 ed with grafting wax, either applied with a brush or having 
 been spread upon cloth, and then wrapped over the whole. 
 2 
 
GRAFTING. 
 
 This, like budding, has numerous modes of being 
 performed. It is perhaps one of the most plainly un- 
 derstood, practically, from reading, of any course of pro- 
 pagation . 
 
 Whip or Tongue Grafting. — This is most generally 
 practised when the stock and scion are nearly of an equal 
 size. The whole gist of it lies in so forming the graft 
 and stock that the two outer surfaces of albumen, or 
 wood of last year's growth, meet one with the other ; or 
 if the stock or scion be either too large, the outer line of 
 the last year's growth shall match on one side. — (see 
 fig 10.) The tongue is a notch cut in the stock, corres- 
 
 F i g . i o . 
 
 ponding with one cut in the graft, each having a lip, as it 
 were, to meet each other, and when put together, serve as 
 
GRAFTING 
 
 !9 
 
 a support in steadying the graft, until the circulation of 
 the sap has united it with the stock. 
 
 This system is practised largely by nurserymen in the 
 propagation of the apple, and is generally called root graft- 
 ing. The work as we have before said, can be done in 
 mid-winter, — the roots and grafts kept in sand for spring 
 planting; or it can be done upon stocks in the open 
 ground in spring, or upon limbs of trees in bearing, and 
 upon which the owner desires to see many varieties. 
 
 Splice Grafting is similar to the foregoing, except that 
 no slit is made in either stock or graft, and consequently 
 it is not counted as desirable. — (see fig. n.) 
 
 Fig . ii. 
 
 Crown Grafting is another mode. It is rarely done, 
 however, except upon small stocks standing in the 'ground 
 near the upper rootlet or fiber. — (see # fig. 12.) 
 
 Saddle Grafting. — This is one which we have found 
 practically of value with the cherry, peach, plum, apri- 
 cot, etc., and especially if we had a new variety that was 
 received late, (fig. 13,) — shows it with the stock pared 
 obliquely on both sides until it becomes an inverted 
 
20 
 
 GRAFTING. 
 
 wedge. The scion is then slit up the center and sides 
 pared down to fit the sides of the stock. 
 
 Fig 
 
 12 
 
 Side Grafting. — This is one of the modes best adapted 
 in the grafting of the cherry, peach, plum, grape, magno- 
 lia, chestnut, etc., when grafts are not of full vigor. As 
 
 Fig 13. 
 
 may be seen in our cut — (see fig. 9) — a notch or slit of 
 about one inch long is cut in the side of the stock — 
 paring the outer portion, then splitting the graft and 
 paring both the inner and outer portion, so that when in- 
 
GRAFTING. 21 
 
 serted there will be a union of the bark and wood. The 
 graft should be wrapped with grafting clay or wax — usu- 
 ally wax on a cloth is best — and the stock should not be 
 headed in until the graft shows signs of union, and then, 
 the pruning back should be gradual. 
 
 Cleft Grafting is an old mode rarely now practised. 
 It consists in sawing the stock or limb off square, then 
 splitting it down with grafting knife or chisel, cutting the 
 lower end of the scion in the form of a wedge, and insert- 
 ing it, so that one side, at least, will be in association with 
 
 ***-; Fig. 9. 
 
 the albumen or inner bark. The withdrawing of the chisel 
 or knife holds the scion or graft firm, and it may L then 
 be protected from" storms by grafting wax or clay. 
 
 Grafting Wax is made in various ways. The following 
 has credit of value : four parts rosin, three parts of bees- 
 wax, three parts lard. When well mixed dip cotton cloth 
 in it while warm, and afterward cut them to meet the use 
 you require. 
 
 Making Cuttings, whether^ of currant, gooseberry or 
 grape, any time* from the fall of the leaf of the season, 
 until two or three weeks previous to the starting of spring 
 growth is a good time. 
 
 The gooseberry and currant cuttings should be, say 
 eight inches in length, and of the present year's growth 
 
22 
 
 GRAFTING. 
 
 from the strongest shoots. The grape cuttings should be 
 made any time from the fall of the leaf in the autumn until 
 the buds commence to swell in the spring. At no time 
 should they be taken from the vine, when the thermome- 
 ter is below freezing. 
 
 The cuttings should be of the best and ripest wood. 
 Any well ripened wood cut with two eyes on it, as shown 
 in figure 5 , is all that is requisite ; and yet we confess a 
 penchant for the old style of mallet cutting, which is 
 shown in our figure 6. It differs from the former only in 
 the fact that it is made with an inch or less of the old 
 
 Figs. 5. 6. 
 
 wood attached to the base of the cutting, and in that 
 attachment, of base, or crown is supposed to be stored 
 up a greater amount of vital life-giving power than can 
 be concentrated in any one distinct bud — that junction 
 or connection being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant 
 so long as the main bud exists, but ready to do service 
 as soon as that is destroyed. 
 
LAYERING (IRA PES. 
 
 2 3 
 
 LAYERING GRAPES. 
 
 Some varieties, like the Delaware, do not grow readily 
 from cuttings when planted in the open ground. If you 
 have a grape vine, say three years old, in spring, just as 
 the buds begin to swell, lay down upon the ground such 
 vines as start from nearest the crown or ground. Mark 
 the space ; then dig it away about six inches deep, in 
 the form of a long, narrow trench. Stretch and peg 
 down (<£,) the vine as shown in the accompanying sketch. 
 As soon as the buds have grown about eight inches, 
 a slight clipping with the knife directly underneath the 
 bud, (a,) and fill up the trench with a good soil, fastening 
 the extreme end with the peg at (/?.) In the autumn 
 each bud or new plant will be found with roots, as at (d.) 
 When one single strong plant only is wanted to be ob- 
 tained by layering, bend a strong shoot and cut away the 
 end buds back to one good strong bud, and let this alone 
 grow . 
 
PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING, 
 
 and for two or three years thereafter of the 
 Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach, Grape, etc. 
 
 Trees received from the dealers, in the hands of nurse- 
 rymen, are often, we regret to say, so wretchedly taken 
 up and packed as to be almost worthless. Again there 
 are men who as tree dealers, are just as reliable and hon- 
 est as the man for whom they take an order. The 
 buyer must beware of an agent that has no vouchers of 
 the fact that he is their agent, and his beat, like a police- 
 man's, is over a certain territory. 
 
 Now, when we write for the public, as to how to treat 
 these trees, when received, and how to prune them at 
 transplanting, we have a wide field to fill. We expect 
 criticism from every tree salesman and so, more or less 
 from those who send out their agents. Nevertheless, 
 we will and must say here, and forever hereafter, that 
 the planting of orchards, and culture of fruits, is largely 
 due to the tree agents, who have engaged in the going 
 among our comparatively isolated people, and showing 
 them specimens of fruits; also colored illustrations of the 
 same, with a promise to deliver % trees that will produce 
 
PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 25 
 
 the same, at a certain time on payment of the regular rates 
 of the growers or nurserymen. 
 
 With this preface to our treating, let us say that when 
 your trees are to hand by means of packing, and trans- 
 portation, you will from neglect of the transporters, find 
 some dried, and others with the tops broken, etc. 
 Some, and most, at this period, are cased in boxes, so 
 that broken tops etc., cannot be laid to the charge of the 
 transporters. 
 
 When the trees come to your hands, have ready a trench 
 to imbed the roots ; but ere you imbed them take each tree, 
 and with a sharp knife, from the under, toward the upper 
 side of the root \ cut it smooth, taking away all the rugged 
 lines ; next take the top branches and as apparently of 
 the roots; they should be shortened in the main branches, 
 one-quarter to two-thirds of the past years growth, while 
 all of the small twigs, or limbs, be cut cleanly to a line of 
 the branch from which they grow. 
 
 This done, and our rule for planting pursued — see fore- 
 going — no special care will be needed until one year has 
 passed; then the trees should be gone over again, say at 
 the time near to the formation of the terminal buds of 
 growth of the year ; care in pruning should now be es- 
 pecially given to the shortening in of irregular branches 
 that show tendency to destroy the true roundish upright 
 head ; small slender twigs should be cut away close to the 
 branch from where they have grown. Do not leave a 
 knob of half an inch projection, but cut clean and smooth, 
 and the wound will soon heal. 
 
26 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 Trees pruned yearly, judiciously, without too much of 
 thinning out of the tops, because our hot suns require 
 foliage to shade the limbs far more than in climates of 
 more regular and even temperature ; will rarely require 
 to have a large limb removed. Old orchards that have 
 been neglected, it is best to go over at the same time given 
 above for young trees. Do not practice the use of an axe 
 and leave a knob of six inches, to either send out many 
 sprouts, or rot and decay, sending its poison into the sap 
 that goes to form new wood. Use a pruning saw, and 
 trim all smooth with a knife ; then paint or gum over, the 
 fresh cut. 
 
 Soft wooded trees like the peach or grape vine, a half 
 inch or so should be left above the bud ; but with these 
 rarely is it necessary to cut limbs or canes over half to 
 three-quarters of an inch diameter. 
 
 The standard apple, pear and plum, should have their 
 first branches start at about three to four feet from the 
 ground, while those to be treated as dwarfs, as the apple 
 on Paradise stock, pear on quinces, peach on plums, 
 should have the lower branches start from about one foot 
 from the ground, and yearly so pruned as to cause them 
 to form a pyramidal shape at first ; this being brought 
 into a rounded head, at the end of three or more years, 
 by shortening the leading upper shoots the most. 
 
 There are a few leading points in the pruning and cul- 
 ture of trees, of which Dubreuil, a french author who has 
 been largely quoted, gives some good points in pruning; 
 in others, our practice leads us to think he fails. When 
 
PRUNING* AT TRANSPLANTING. 27 
 
 he says:— we quote—" that the vigor of a tree, subjected 
 to priming, depends in a great measure, on the equal 
 distribution of sap in all its branches," he is measurably 
 correct; but when he adds : " the most vigorous parts, 
 should be pruned short, at the same time leaving the weak 
 shoots long," we think he errs; for our experience has 
 been, that cutting back the strong shoots to two, or three 
 buds, and leaving the inferior shoots long, has broken 
 the form of growth we would have in the leading shoots, 
 and left us at two years, with a mass of puny branches 
 to be cut away as refuse and unsightly. 
 
 All this varies however in the varieties of trees ; some 
 have little or no tendency to throw out small twigs, as Te- 
 tofsky and Red Astrachan apple, Bartlett and Clapp's 
 Favorite pear, etc; and while it has been said, and is by 
 many advocated to-day, that a tree once rightly started, 
 and then left to itself, free of pruning, will most fully de- 
 velop its sap, and come into bearing more healthfully 
 than when trained to meet the mind of man. 
 
 Again in pruning, it is said by Dubreuil, that when 
 the tree comes into bearing, the leaving of a large quantity 
 on the strong shoots, and removing it mainly from the 
 feeble, that the sap on the strong wood, will be absorbed 
 by the fruit, and it will make little growth, while the 
 parts will increase in size ; this does not coincide with 
 our experience. A practice of this course two years 
 found us with little, or no good sized or rich fruit ; but 
 with our tree, all cluttered and out of shape. 
 
 We would, that the limit of the work designed by the 
 
28 PRUNING AT TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 publisher would permit us to carry out the whole of this 
 subject, but we fear it will not ; we will only add, that in 
 all of pruning of the pear, apple, or cherry, and perhaps 
 other varieties, no knife should ever be used after the first 
 three years from transplanting ; walking through the orch- 
 ard and seeing here and there a limb growing too fast to 
 meet equality in after time of ks associates ; just a pinch 
 of the finger and thumb, breaking away to a bud ; the 
 soft wood of the end is all th,e pruning that is required. 
 Nature is wild and is responsible, like mankind ; but like 
 mankind, she does best with just a gentle check here and 
 there, now and then. 
 
THE GRAPE. 
 
 We have shown in a former article, a chapter how to 
 form the grape cutting for out of door growing. We now 
 propose to show how to plant and prune the grape, which 
 next to, if not superior to the pear, is bound to be part 
 and parcel of every small homestead, and from it, on to 
 its hundreds of acres for supply of its luscious and health- 
 ful food to the millions that have no garden grounds. 
 
 Once upon a time, the writer had much to do with var- 
 ieties of grapes, the growing from cuttings, layers, etc., 
 and came to the conclusion that a good, strong, healthy, 
 well rooted plant, grown with space of one foot apart, 
 was better and more likely to be successful than the plant 
 grown from a single eye and only three inches apart in a 
 frame. My estimate is now appreciated by one who 
 watched my work, and who says how that every year- 
 ling grape grown from a cutting should have eighteen 
 inches of space to make it really valuable. 
 
 But let me show the reader of this book my illustra- 
 tions of how I made cuttings, and how the roots and 
 growth showed. They all had the same care and soil. 
 As before said, in an item of how to form a grape cut- 
 ting for out-door culture, we present the following illus- 
 trations. Figure A shows a cutting made of two buds, all 
 
3° 
 
 THE GRAPE. 
 
 the lower part being rasped with a coarse wood file, cross- 
 wise over the surface, and breaking up the continuity of 
 outline, tearing and destroying the outer cuticle or^bark, 
 
 Fig. A. 
 
 and rendering the wood more accessible to the action of 
 moisture and heat. Some growers shave all the bark off 
 from the lower end of the cutting. There are some 
 doubts of the practical value of this method. We have 
 been unable to perceive that the cuttings so shaved or 
 rasped made any more certain or vigorous growth. In 
 Delaware and Nortons we fail to grow, say ten per cent. 
 Why, when they all apparently are equally good cuttings, 
 have the same handling, etc., is this so? 
 
 Fig. B. 
 Figure B is a representation of a two-eyed Delaware, 
 
THE GRAPE. 3 1 
 
 prepared and grown with the rasping process. The lower 
 roots' were strong and good, but the wood below the bud 
 all destroyed. 
 
 The cutting called the mallet differs only in the fact 
 that it is made with an inch or less of the old, or two- 
 year-old wood attached to the base of the cutting; and in 
 that attachment of base or crown, are supposed to. be 
 stored up a greater amount of vital, life-giving power than 
 can be concentrated in any one distinct bud, that junction 
 or bud being, in fact, filled with buds, dormant so long as 
 the main bud exists, but ready to do service as soon as 
 that is destroyed. 
 
 Fig. C. 
 
 Figure C shows a representation of this cutting; and 
 we are strongly disposed to believe that when the most 
 sound, healthy plants, vigorous 'in every essential of vital 
 life, are wanted, they must be procured from cuttings 
 made to embrace this junction of old and new wood; 
 wherein, as in the crown of the seedling tree, the most of, 
 life-giving power exists. We do not doubt but that under 
 care and culture, the plants grown from single eyes, or 
 two-eyed cuttings of last year's wood, may in time become 
 full and perfect; but their growth is constantly enfeebled, 
 and more and more, as the buds from which they are 
 grown are destitute of full and perfect life. 
 
 The ground in which these were planted, after being 
 kept in sand, so that they exhibited a slight callous or 
 
3 2 
 
 THE GRAPE. 
 
 little white lip of delicate tissue, just around the outer 
 edge of the lower cut was of a light sandy loam, and 
 after planting the cuttings, old tan-bark was spread two 
 inches deep over them. 
 
 Most of the cuttings were put under the soil two 
 inches above the top of the bud. 
 
 Fig. i 
 
 Fig. i is from one of the strongest woods and buds, 
 having an inch of wood below the bud. Its roots and top 
 are strong ; the number of large roots not as many as in 
 fig. B ; but they are longer and stronger. Let me say just 
 here that the wood growth was not all alike 
 
THE GRAPE. 
 
 33 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 2 is a representation of a single bud of wood like 
 fig. i ; but its vitality was not the same, consquently the 
 growth is not the same. 
 
 Fig. 3 shows the growth of roots and top of fig. i, in 
 the spring of the following year. 
 
 It is to be regretted that I have now no drawing of the 
 roots of the best of the cuttings, as the mallet cutting 
 having a piece of the old wood at the base of lower bud 
 of the cutting. 
 
 Having shown partly, but not quite fully, the growing 
 from the cutting, let me come to quotations of a thorough- 
 
34 THE GRAPE. 
 
 bred cultivator of the grape, and I believe the readers of 
 this book will not regret it. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 He says, " I have been looking over my former year's 
 work, have been reading back or rather over again the 
 views of others, and, after studying all, I took my spade 
 and digging fork and went to an Isabella vine, planted 
 some ten years or more since, and which has never shown 
 any disease, but yearly ripened its fruit regularly and 
 evenly. It was in clay soil. I dug carefully all around it 
 a distance of four feet each way from the vine, or eight 
 feet diameter, took out a trench with spade, then with my 
 fork I commenced to shake out roots, but there was no 
 direct tap-root of any size, and altogether the larger por- 
 tion of the roots were within ten inches of the surface. 
 Small roots, as large as a goose quill, it is true, were 
 apparently* down below. Some of them pulled up in lift- 
 ing the vine, others broke off, but there was not a large or 
 main root so situated. 
 
 It may not be that this is any guide showing the general 
 
THE GRAPE. 35 
 
 habit of roots of the vine, when grown in vineyards of clay 
 soils and yearly pruned ; but for the present I think I will 
 so consider it, and when I plant, avoid as I have gen- 
 erally heretofore, setting my roots too deep. Most writers 
 on the grape tell us that the roots must be planted deep, 
 at least they must have ten inches of soil over and above 
 the upper root of the plant ; and they tell us that if the 
 plants are too small for such purpose, then we must ex- 
 cavate a basin, set the plant, and as it grows, fill up around 
 the stem. In my soil, if the spring proved a rainy one, 
 were I to plant in that way I should have my labor for my 
 pains ; for all the plants would rot before they could 
 possibly grow sufficiently to allow the earth to be drawn 
 to a level. 
 
 The following figure shows this mode of planting as I 
 understand it : 
 
 A straight line drawn across from the ends of the 
 dotted line would show the level of the ground; the dotted 
 line the excavation, with the plant having two eyes, and 
 set in just deep enough to cover the lower eye or bud 
 with soil. The roots are shortened as here shown, to 
 about eighteen inches in length, and spread out regularly, 
 setting the base of the main stem on a little mound or 
 rise — not a sharp cone, but a broad mound. 
 
 I have practised this mode as an experiment, and with 
 
36 THE GRAPE. 
 
 a disposition to try all ways, but in three successive years 
 I failed of getting as early a growth, nor did my vines 
 make up for lost time in the hot months of summer, as has 
 been sometimes stated they would. 
 
 The next manner of planting, highly recommended by 
 good cultivators, I have followed with good results. It is 
 to prepare the ground where this plant is to stand by 
 finely pulverizing it, then excavate a breadth or circle 
 sufficiently wide to admit of straightening out the entire 
 roots of the vine without cutting away a single inch ; 
 make the excavation about six inches deep at the outside 
 of the circle, and rising so that the center is four inches 
 below the level of the surrounding ground. The accom- 
 panying figure shows this method, the straight line being 
 
 the surface of the earth, thexlotted line below that of the 
 mound on which the plant is placed before filling in the 
 earth. This depth for planting I believe a good one, but 
 I fail to find any gain from leaving so much root ; and as 
 it increases the labor and expense of planting fully one- 
 half, I think I shall follow out my old plan, viz : — with my 
 knife I cut away every small fiber or thread-like root, and 
 all that are as large around as one of Faber's lead 
 pencils, I shorten back to sixteen or eighteen inches, then 
 
THK GRAFK. 37 
 
 prepare my holes with the mound in center, and plant 
 just as when the roots are of full length. 
 
 I never use any water or muck for dipping my roots 
 when setting, but I keep them well wrapped in a wet cloth, 
 from which I take out one at a time, as wanted for 
 planting. " 
 
 As an item of record, it may be well to say, that single 
 grape vines trained upon a wall, say of a house or barn, 
 and well supplied with food at the root, will often produce 
 all that one family would need. On Kelley Island, we 
 once saw a vine of Catawba, the roots of which were 
 near where the daily wash of slops, soap-suds, etc., were 
 thrown from the house, and from which, yearly, two to 
 three hundred pounds of ripe grapes were gathered. 
 
 It is said that one of the largest grape vines in the world 
 is at Montecilo, near Santa Barbara, California. It is 
 estimated to be over one hundred years old, is nearly five 
 feet in circumference, and rises eight feet erect from the 
 root, where it branches out in every direction. It is said 
 to have produced six tons of grapes in one season, and 
 that fifteen hundred gallons of wine have been made from 
 it in one year. 
 
 WHEN TO PRUNE. 
 
 The best time is just at the fall of the vine leaf in Oc- 
 tober. Let the main pruning be at that time, if it be 
 possible to command that time ; but if the work cannot 
 then be done, do it if you can, before severe freezing 
 weather ; if not then done, postpone it until there comes 
 
38 THE GRAPE. 
 
 a regular thaw in winter — say a week or ten days of soft, 
 moist weather, when the frost is nearly or quite out of the 
 ground — and then don't neglect your duty any longer. 
 
 HOW TO PRUNE. 
 
 This is the second question, and one that is answered 
 so variously by writers on grape growing, and is talked of 
 so oppositely by vignerons, that an answer in any way will 
 be said by some to be assuming ; but, having studied the 
 grape pretty thoroughly, and having read every treatise of 
 which we have ever heard, and practised, or observed the 
 practise of each writer, we feel that what we say of " How 
 to Prune," if practised, will result in success to the pro- 
 prietor of the vine on which it is performed. 
 
 Each variety almost, will, after the first two years, re- 
 quire a distinct system — so that any general rule for grape 
 pruning of our vines would fall to the ground if attempted 
 to be practised. The grape grower must first learn the 
 habit and character of his variety, and then he can adapt 
 his pruning and training to a mode or system consonant 
 with its class. 
 
 But, of " How to Prune," let us say, first, that summer 
 pruning — that is, cutting away of foliage after the blossom 
 has opened — is now counted, by the majority of vignerons, 
 as an error ; and the reason for the error is, that each leaf 
 and end of a shoot has a corresponding connection with 
 the spongioles or feeding ends of the roots, and once the 
 leaf or shoot connecting therewith is broken, the spongi- 
 ole rootlet, or feeding mouth, is affected — is closed from 
 
THE GRAPE. 39 
 
 its natural action, and, as a consequence, rot and decay 
 ensue, creating at the root of the vine, a fungoid disease 
 which, if the same system of summer pruning were per- 
 sisted in, would, in a few years, result in apparent out- 
 ward disease of the vine, and in rot and mildew of the 
 
 fruit. 
 
 Having said this much of summer pruning, let us now 
 suppose you have a vine planted this past spring, and that 
 you have permitted it, as you should, to grow just as 
 many or just as few shoots or vines as it pleased ; but now 
 you want to put it into shape, so that next year it will in- 
 crease in strength of root and prepare itself to give you 
 fruit the year following. Take then your knife and cut 
 away all the small canes, selecting the largest and best in 
 the center, or as grown from the strongest center bud, and 
 cut that so that your vine will be as represented in Fig. i. 
 
 Fig. i. 
 This first season all vines may be acceptably pruned in 
 this way ; but when the growth in spring comes, it be- 
 hooves the grower to know his vine and his soil. For 
 while a Concord, Hartford, or Norton, etc., will in good 
 
40 THE GRAPE. 
 
 soil be the* better for permitting the three buds here shown 
 to grow, the Delaware, Rebecca, Mottled, Elsinborough 
 and some others, will be better to have only two buds per- 
 mitted to grow. As the buds start in spring there will be 
 more or less of sucker sprouts start from the root, and 
 the dormant bud at base of the main bud will often start ; 
 the vine must then be watched, and as soon as a shoot 
 appears, other than the two or three strong ones from the 
 regular buds, they should be at once rubbed out, and 
 thenceforward, during the summer, rub or prune no more ; 
 let all grow ; for although old time cultivators will tell you 
 to cut or pull away the laterals, we tell you that the later- 
 als serve to add to the size and vigor of the lower part of 
 the cane, and the buds thereon, and every additional 
 ripened leaf adds to the volume and strength of the root 
 for the coming year's aid. 
 
 Supposing your vine to have been a Delaware or Re- 
 becca, or any of that class of short jointed, comparatively 
 slow growers, it will, at the close of the second season, 
 present much the appearance of Fig. 2 ; but if it has been 
 a Concord, Hartford, Wilder, etc., then you must add a 
 third cane to make our figure exhibit what your vine 
 should be in September of the year. 
 
 And now your season for pruning has again come, and 
 by its pruning you hope for fruit the coming season. 
 Your Concord, Hartford, or other strong growing kinds, 
 having been grown to three strong canes, if your posts 
 and wires are put up, and it is pruned and tied, it will, or 
 should, look very much like Fig. 3, on page 44. 
 
 Each of these canes has three buds, and the two upper 
 
THE GRAPE, 
 
 4* 
 
 Fig . 2 
 
4 2 
 
 THE GRAPE. 
 
 buds on each cane are to produce fruit, while the cane on 
 the lower bud is to have whatever fruit it will set rubbed 
 away, and the canes trained for fruiting another year. 
 
 On vines — say those of five or more years old, and 
 with such varieties as Concord, etc. — these canes should 
 be much longer, and have, when pruned in autumn, from 
 eight to ten buds each, and then in spring, each alternate 
 bud should be rubbed out, just before the blossoming of 
 the vine. Fig. 4 is a representative of an irregular grown 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 vine of the past or second year, and now cut to two canes 
 of four buds each, with a spur cane at the base of one of 
 them, from which to grow canes for the coming or suc- 
 ceeding year. This, with its four buds to a cane, it is 
 supposed should have the lower and the third buds rub- 
 
THE GRAPE. 43 
 
 bed out before the setting of fruit, while the upper and 
 second buds will give each three bunches, making twelve 
 bunches, full as much as any young vine should bear. So 
 much, in a condensed form, of " How to Prune." 
 
 Thus far the vines have been trained to simple rough 
 stakes • but now the trellis must be erected, as the next 
 •or third season will require its use. Iron wire is found 
 the cheapest and best for the purpose ; the tendrils of the 
 vine cling to it, which they never do to wood, and thus 
 very much of the labor of tying is saved. The size of 
 the wire generally used is classed as No. 9. It should be 
 annealed in order to make it tough. 
 
 ROWS OF TRELLIS. 
 
 " The rows of the trellis," say some vignerons, "should 
 run north and south, because at the period that the grapes 
 are ripening they obtain more of the direct rays of the sun 
 than when they run east and west ; the sun being low at 
 that season, part of the vines are always m the shade 
 Other practical men urge the east and west lines, be- 
 cause " they say, " at the season of ripening of the grapes, 
 the midday suns heat and reflect from the ground much 
 stronger upon the full face of the vine, than when the 
 rows are north and south." 
 
 I have seen the perfect ripening of both lines, and con- 
 sider that more is due to the cultivation, soil and pruning 
 than the position of the trellis. 
 
44 
 
 THE GRAPE 
 
 PUTTING UP THE TRELLIS 
 
 Strong posts are to be set at each end of the rows and 
 braced, as shown in Figure 3. These braces are from 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 eight to twelve feet long, and fastened at the bottom to a 
 post set firm in the ground ; then at a distance of eighteen 
 
THE GRAPE. 45 
 
 or twenty feet on the line of the row, set other posts, leav- 
 ing each post about six feet out of the ground. 
 
 NUMBER OF WIRES. 
 
 Three or four wires are required, placed at a distance 
 of eighteen to twenty inches upward from the ground. 
 Three wires are sufficient except for very strong vines, 
 when the fourth is advisable for the purpose of securing 
 the upper growths, and preventing their falling down over 
 the lower vines and fruit. 
 
 The vines should be fastened at one end post, then 
 stretched along the line. At each middle or intervening 
 post theVires are raised and a staple is driven partially 
 into the'post in such manner as to keep the wire at the re- 
 quired height. Next, the wires are drawn as tight as pos- 
 sible and fastened at the opposite end, and then each 
 staple on the intervening post is driven home, so as to 
 fully secure the wire and cause a certain amount of 
 strain to rest on each post. 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 
 
 There is in this class of our fruits varieties of every cul- 
 ture and suited to almost all soils and climates. Of 
 course when bleak cold winds prevail during the dormant 
 season of the year, more or less of protection must be 
 given. 
 
 With Strawberries one must to a certain extent give 
 credit to the line of latitude below 40 deg.. and strange as 
 it may seem to many, the Wilson's Albany, which origina- 
 ted at the north, and is generally grown both in family and 
 market gardens, is the most popular berry at the south. 
 The Newman's has favor from a few in South Carolina, 
 but Georgia says, that " it is a large and showy berry, but 
 is inferior in quantity." 
 
 The Triomph de Gand holds as a family or near market 
 berry, the first place. 
 
 Longworth's Prolific, Downer's Prolific, Green's Pro- 
 lific, Ida, Charles Downing stand well in all the South. 
 Yearly many new varieties are brought before the public, 
 and they are often written of, yet records of associations, 
 where people profess to meet and give information as to 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 47 
 
 value, etc., of sorts, little is obtained. The Almighty 
 Dollar covers all of those who have invested in a variety 
 with a view to its sale. 
 
 To amateurs, those who care only for their own table 
 eating, we advise the Nicanor, Triomph de Gand, Lennig's 
 White, and Royal Hautbois, adding if you have room, 
 President Wilder and Trollope's Victoria. 
 
 We present herewith an illustration of the Nicanor, the 
 name meaning " The Queen," and which F. R. Elliott, 
 
 of Cleveland, had the honor of naming and first describ- 
 ing. It is a variety of value that should be not only in 
 private grounds, but also of those of the market gardener. 
 
 Many more varieties it is well to mention, but our re- 
 cord given elsewhere covers all that can yet be depended 
 upon. 
 
 We have Boy den's AV30, or Seth Boy den, Barnes' Mam- 
 moth, Crimson Cone, Monarch of the West, La Constante, 
 Mary White, Sterling, Margaret, Mary Stuart, Kentucky, 
 have each, in their time been lauded. 
 
 Could we who write grow the La Constante as does 
 James A. Doug all, of Windsor, Canada, a town just 
 
48 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 opposite Detroit in Michigan, we would never be without 
 it. It is the berry of all when well grown. Now don't 
 let any obtain it, unless they intend to grow it carefully, 
 cultivated in rich deep soil, annually surface supplied with 
 food. We do wish it was more grown, but there is no 
 profit in it, except to minister to the palate and pleasure 
 of our friends. 
 
 We will now quote touching Strawberries, a few items 
 from a writer who is posted. He says, speaking first of 
 the Alpine or Hautbois class, as follows: — 
 
 " I have been looking over some of my old notes and 
 comments made, and I find that they record every time 
 the speech of men and women in favor of the delicacy 
 and peculiar flavor that belongs to this class of strawber- 
 ries — a class which is acknowledged unprofitable for the 
 commercial grower, but for those who grow only for their 
 own table of unrivaled flavor and excellence. 
 
 In my own garden I have grown the Red Alpine and 
 Prolific Hautbois more than twenty-five years, and have 
 never had a failure ; anH to be left without them now 
 should feel that I was either behind the age or the age 
 was not cognizant of the natures of these varieties for 
 family use. The latter I now believe the true state of the 
 case, but am willing to be corrected — if any one conceives 
 it possible. 
 
 I do not believe the amateur grower of strawberries, — 
 whether done by himself or professional employed gard- 
 ener, — should ever be guided by quantity produced, or 
 even size ; for these two elements almost always militate 
 against the quality. Let them cultivate in the strawberry 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 49 
 
 for their tables the refinement of culture they claim to ex- 
 ercise in that of literature and art, and they would no 
 longer grow such varieties as Jucunda % Napoleon III, etc., 
 which are perhaps valuable in localities for the commer- 
 cial grower, and for sale, to those who have no concep- 
 tion of value, except it be represented outwardly to view. 
 
 With these prefatory remarks, I proceed to describe 
 two or three varieties of the class of Hautbois strawberries, 
 with a hope, knowing the satisfaction it will give, that 
 they may be more generally grown. 
 
 Of the old varieties, none deserve higher credit or more 
 universal cultivation than the Prolific Hautbois — a variety 
 that although long known by those whose attention has 
 been drawn to the subject, to the masses is yet a compar- 
 atively new sort. The vines are very strong, vigorous 
 growers, sending up their long fruit-stalks nearly level 
 with and generally above the leaf foliage, and producing 
 fruit in abundance, of full medium size, conical in shape, 
 of very dark, almost blackish red, when ripe moderately 
 firm-fleshed, juicy, sweet and of a peculiarly high, arom- 
 atic, pineapple flavor, never to be once eaten but to be 
 again desired. 
 
 The Royal Hautbois is another and perhaps improved 
 variety of the above. I have only known it a year or two, 
 and never believe in commending until I have a good fair 
 chance of being able to sustain my comments. So far as 
 I have practical knowledge, however, this variety is desi- 
 rable. The fruit is medium to large, roundish, obtuse, 
 conical, with a whitish, rich, sweet flesh. • 
 
 The foregoing, Hautbois, are unpopular because not 
 
 4 
 
5° 
 
 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 profitable; for, people on the markets, buy by the eye, 
 not of the palate. Few in the world have a delicacy of 
 taste. Brought up on fried fat meats, and sweetmeats, 
 the flavor or the palate lias been as much destroyed as 
 in that of the drinker of poor liquors. Let us hope. for 
 improvement in the education of those who are to super- 
 cede us in life. 
 
 Of others outside of the Alpines and Hautbois, there are 
 also a few varieties that should always be in the possession 
 of those who grow strawberries. The Lennig, La Con- 
 stant, Trioniphe de Gaud, are of delicacy and richness. 
 A new seedling under the name of Mary White is much 
 after the style of Lennig' s, only a little more flattened in 
 form. Another called Sterling is after the Trioniphe de 
 Gand, when well and fully ripened. In form it is more 
 conical or obovate conic, in color a rich glossy vermillion, 
 red flesh, a little acid. 
 
 We take up some of the older sorts. Lady Finger, one 
 of the old varieties, is in favor with many, while others 
 think it too flavorless. French Seedling, too soft, and also 
 wanting in flavor. Lda, small but prolific ; one of the 
 earliest and latest to ripen, of a quality that, when ripe, 
 everybody likes, and one that amateurs who have grown 
 it declare they cannot dispense with. Michigan, too 
 small and unproductive, but of good flavor. Green Pro- 
 lific is an abundant bearer, but in quality no better than 
 Wilson, and not near as firm for market purposes. Tri- 
 oniphe de Gand holds its own as a fine, large and valuable 
 sort, when well cultivated in rich, strong soil. 
 
 La Constante, Fnima and Hooker are all fine flavored 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 5 1 
 
 sorts, but the plants require too much care to keep them 
 going. Napoleon III has only found favorable record in 
 two or three places. Dr. Nicaise has not been heard of 
 since its first season. Agriculturist has, good reports from 
 many ; and were it not so soft would probably be more 
 grown. Peak's Emperor is said to be so much like Agri- 
 culturist that even good judges cannot distinguish them 
 apart. It is however claimed for Peak's Emperor that it 
 will succeed on soil in which the Agriculturist fails. Or- 
 nament des Tables, as heretofore, proves of the highest fla- 
 vor, but unproductive. Hovey yet holds its own as the 
 finest of all varieties for shipping, but it is not sufficiently 
 productive to meet the wants of the present age. 
 
 Princess Royal and King Arthur are two of the foreign 
 sorts that have favorable accounts of giving promise of 
 value . Tillip 's Rival Queen is also another of good record . 
 Lucas has fine flavor, but too unproductive. Belle de Bor- 
 delaise is said to be the best of all the Han 'tbois class. 
 
 The Culture of Strawberries , one of what we term small 
 fruits, has in it with others, items of practice, depth of 
 soil, character thereof and location. Our American va- 
 rieties, taking the Wilson, with its strong roots to a young 
 plant, and Nicanor, almost equalling in this particular, 
 while being quite as fruitful and of better quality, with 
 Ida, Green's Prolific, Kentucky, and some others, may be 
 planted in rows three feet distant, each plant set in the 
 row one foot from each other, and when acres are grown 
 the cultivator, propelled by the horse or mule, will do 
 most of the cultivation. In the small garden, what is 
 known as the Dutch scuffle hoe, followed by raking the 
 
5 2 
 
 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 surface directly afterward with a common iron hand rake, 
 is perhaps the cheapest and easiest mode that can be used 
 by the grower. At the north, or above 40 deg. of latitude, 
 all these require shielding in winter, which may be done 
 by the use of straw or bog hay scattered lightly over them 
 and held from being blown away by winds, by the use of 
 poles or rails, two to four inches in diameter. 
 
 All the foreign varieties like the Triomphe de Garni, 
 Lennig's White, Trollope's Victoria, Monarch of the West, 
 La Constante, etc., should be cultivated in hills having 
 one good plant, at distances say eighteen inches apart 
 each way, the runners Cut away as fast as they appear, 
 and the whole strength of the plant thrown into the fruit. 
 If new plants are wanted for the coming year the fruit 
 blossoms should be picked from a few hills and the run- 
 ners left to take root. In the States or sections below 40 
 deg. of latitude, the strawberry is grown with little care or 
 culture. They need no winter protection, and the crop 
 ripens ere the hot suns injure the vine. 
 
 RASPBERRIES. 
 
 New varieties are easily grown from seed, but they have 
 a tendency to change from the parent. A fully ripe berry 
 should be taken and planted about one inch deep in light 
 loamy soil, and shaded, until it has made a growth of two 
 leaves. A cheap box frame, with slats over the top, an- 
 swers well, and when the plants are grown six inches high 
 they should be transplanted, shaded, and protected the 
 first winter. Suckers, or offsets, can be transplanted 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 53 
 
 either in autumn or spring, taking the growth of the season 
 with root, and cutting the stem to four inches of the crown 
 of the root. Plants, the growth of the early season, may- 
 be taken up and transplanted by removing most of the 
 foliage, as with the strawberry. The soil best suited to 
 grow the finer varieties, is a rich deep loam, where there 
 is moisture, but such drainage that water will not stand. 
 
 Soils and locations unfavorable can be made good by 
 deep culture, and by placing at the bottom of a deep 
 trench along the row line, coarse barn-yard manure or 
 leaf litter. Then, after transplanting, mulch the surface 
 with any refuse straw or hay. Generally an open airy 
 location is advised, but where shade can be given without 
 exhausting the soil, by trees, it is desirable, and especially 
 with the southern portions of our States and the valley 
 regions. The systems of growing vary, and perhaps are 
 equally profitable. Most planters grow the plants three 
 feet apart each way, with two to four canes to a hill, ac- 
 cording to the soil. Some keep them upright by stakes 
 and wires, others by simply bending the bearing cane in 
 spring, to form arches along, leaving the present years to 
 grow upright, then cutting away yearly, or soon after the 
 crop is gathered, the last bearing canes. 
 
 Hardiness of varieties is a feature that greatly depends 
 on location. In Philadelphia, parts of New Jersey, the 
 south shore of Lake Erie, and the eastern shore of Lake 
 Michigan, most of the foreign varieties and their Ameri- 
 can seedling offspring, generally prove fruitful without the 
 laying or bending down and covering. So also there are 
 
54 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 localities adjoining our inland lake bodies of water, where 
 with careful looking to no standing water in the soil, and 
 by carefully pinching back the canes for next year's bear- 
 ing, from time to time, varieties prove almost hardy. It 
 is impossible to write definite instructions for the general 
 readers, and the territory of the United States. 
 
 Of the hardiest varieties of this class, i.e. the foreign 
 and their American seedlings, we will start with those we 
 count the best, and in the order of ripening. The Kirt- 
 land is hardy, in size almost, if not quite equal to the 
 Clarke ; is the earliest of all to ripen ; of fine quality for 
 the table, but too soft for distant market transportation. 
 It should be in the garden of every fruit grower. 
 
 The Clarke is not as hardy as Kirtland, nor will it bear 
 as well transportation. Next it is a question between Na- 
 omi and Knevefs Giant, and when the product, size and 
 quality of fruit is counted. 
 
 Naomi — of which (see illustration) herewith a drawing, 
 is one that has made some noise, and whether nine hun- 
 dred and ninety-nine out of every ten hundred that have 
 been sold under this name prove Franconia is doubtful. 
 It is a distinct sort, and side by side with Franconia, of 
 which it is doubtless a seedling, it has stood the winter 
 uninjured, when its parent has killed to the ground. In 
 its general appearance it is not unlike the Franconia ; but 
 in its quality it is sweeter and richer. 
 
 Knevefs Giant, a variety of which no record seems to be 
 found in any but American works, is of acknowledged 
 foreign origin, and has, in years gone by, proved fine. 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 55 
 
 NAOMI. 
 
56 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 Belle dn' Paluan is another foreigner of good show. 
 All speak its praise, but from what we have known of it the 
 canes are not hardy, and therefore the public as a public, 
 the growers all over the country, will not have it. 
 
 The Hudson River Red Antwerp^ is so often written of 
 by journals, and as nearly every town has heard of it, it 
 is needless to write, more than to say, that on dee}) rich 
 soil, laid loose and lightly covered in winter, it is product- 
 ive, and one of the best in every respect. Franconia is 
 an old variety, large fruit, deep purplish red and pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 Herstine is one of recent production, an abundant 
 bearer of large fruit. 
 
 The Highland Hardy, Bratidywine and Turner's Seed- 
 ling are among a large lot of new named varieties. Their 
 value must be learned by years of cultivation in varied 
 locations. Of the late or autumnal varieties of foreign 
 origin, the Belle de Fontenay is one of the best, but has a 
 strong tendency to sucker, and the grower must destroy a 
 large portion of them in its cultivation. 
 
 .A word in favor of Belle de Fontenay, a variety that 
 because of its disposition to sucker freely has been 
 almost discarded. By or from pure contrariness, a 
 man in the writer's employ, three years since, in 
 hoeing, cut away in spring all the suckers ; and so all 
 summer, when hoeing, he would let but one or two grow, 
 cutting away all others as weeds. The result was a good 
 crop of fruit not only on the canes of the previous year, 
 but on those of the same season 's growth ; and repeating 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 57 
 
 the process, with like results, up to the present, we now 
 have fruit on the young canes just as that on the canes of 
 last year's growth. As a variety for private gardens, it is 
 worthy of more general planting than it has received, but 
 all should remember to cut away the suckers freely, as so 
 many weeds. The drawing is one of thirteen clusters on 
 a stem or cane of the year's growth. 
 
 Belle de Fonteny. 
 
 The Large Fruited Monthly and Merville de Four Seas- 
 ons, are of those that have had the longest test, and 
 counted among the best. 
 
 Of the Native Varieties, classed generally with Purple 
 Cane, Mrs. Wood, and then as Black Caps, varieties that 
 so long as the public remain without education of the del- 
 icacy and richness that belongs to fruit, we suppose will 
 
58 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 be grown, as they can be grown profitably, with the least 
 knowledge of how to gather, pack or ship. 
 
 The Doolittle and Davison's Thornless are about the 
 same in time of ripening, are medium-sized fruit and 
 good bearers. The Doolittle is most profitable. Ellisdale, 
 Minnesota, Alia ma, OJiio Ever-Bearing, Zu/u's Ever- 
 Bearing, Golden Thorn less, Black Cap, Surprise, and 
 several others, are no better than hundreds of the old 
 wild American Black and White-Caps, to be found in 
 fence corners all over the country ; and a man owning 
 ground on which the natives grow, who should cut them 
 away for the purpose of planting either of the above, 
 ought to be sent to a lunatic asylum or made to attend 
 Horticultural Conventions one year. It is questionable if 
 he got away from either with any improvement of mind 
 or judgment. 
 
 Philadelphia is too well known to speak of, for in quality 
 it is unworthy, and only for markets near by will it an- 
 swer, on account of the softness of the berry, but for a 
 market near by, and to supply at low rates it is profitable. 
 Mrs. Wood is equally productive with Philadelphia , and 
 for family use is a far superior berry. It is of a purplish 
 red and matures its crop late. It is a larger berry than 
 any other belonging to the hybrid class of a cross between 
 the common American Black and the foreign varieties. 
 
 The Miami, McCormick or Mammoth Cluster , all one 
 and the same, should be, with Mrs. Wood, the only two 
 of our natives to cultivate. 
 
 Many more varieties of these classes might be noted, 
 
S.MALI. FRUITS. 59 
 
 but we count it wise to advise the culture of only a few of 
 the best, for the market, the farm and the garden. 
 
 BLACKBERRIES. 
 
 The culture of Blackberries is similar to that of the 
 Raspberry, except they are of stronger and longer growth 
 of the stem, and therefore should be planted at least six 
 to eight feet apart. Rich soil is a requisite of success, 
 and often after planting a mulch of four to six inches deep 
 is better than hand or plow culture. 
 
 This fruit is indigenous to this country, is easily grown 
 from seed, and our best known varieties, under name, have 
 come to us from observation and the gathering of wildings. 
 As long ago as 1845 the writer saw fruit, grown from 
 plants obtained from the woods, that measured over five 
 inches in circumference. Trimming and training with the 
 Blackberry differs little if any from that of the Raspberry. 
 
 The terms of Blackberry, Dewberry or high and low 
 Blackberry, all come from the same bramble, and the 
 Wilson comes the nearest of any in cultivation to the 
 wild Dewberry. Of the varieties, Kittatinny stands first, 
 as a general fruit for home use or market. Dorchester is 
 a sweeter berry, the sweetest of all, but it is not very 
 productive. New Rochelle or Lawton^ is a large berry, 
 but it is almost impossible to gather a quart of sweet fruit 
 from the canes. ■ Wilson's Early, a low growing sort, is a 
 variety that should be grown, as its canes can easily be 
 protected in winter. Its fruit is large and of good quality. 
 Doctor Wanicr, Newman 's Thornless and Duncan's Falls 
 
6o 
 
 SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 are among the best new sorts named of the black colored 
 fruit. The Duncan's Falle is after the habit of growth of 
 New Rochelle, but it ripens earlier, is productive, with 
 berries large and sweet when gathered. Missouri Mam- 
 moth and Sable Queen coming from two extremes of our 
 States, viz : the first from Missouri, the second from Mas- 
 sachusetts, have each claims, but they must take time to 
 show which quarter of the nation is best. 
 
 Colonel Wilder and Crystal White, two varieties sent out 
 from Albion, Illinois, have fruit, the former medium size, 
 oblong form, light cream color ; the latter has fruit large, 
 oval roundish, white, sweet and high flavor. Neither of 
 these are valuable for market. 
 
 The Alger, originated at Cleveland, Ohio, is of good 
 size, oblong in form, of a deep claret color, sweet and 
 rich . * 
 
 We group some berries of varieties. 
 
 WILSON S EARLY 
 
SMALL FRUITS. 
 
 6l 
 
 KITTATINN . 
 
 ALGER. 
 
 NEW ROCHELLE 
 
OPENING OF FRUIT BLOSSOMS. 
 
 When watching the opening of leaf and blossom of 
 varieties of cherry, pear and peach, during their period 
 of returning life and promise ; for in this their period of 
 spring bloom we think there is not a little yet to sway us 
 in our judgment of their value as adapted to localities. 
 
 Rostiezer pears were in full bloom before Tyson had 
 burst the leaf shell ; Dutchess was in full bloom before 
 Beurre d'Anjou had more - than just opened. Hale's 
 Early peach was the first to open, except one or two seed- 
 lings, which are of no value in fruit; Crawford's Early 
 came next, then Sturtevant and Red Cheek Melocoton, 
 and then Old Mixon Free. 
 
 Among cherries, one of the very latest ripening sorts 
 was the first to open its blossoms, while Early Purple 
 Guigne came with Black Tartarian, and then followed 
 Red Jacket, which is one of the late ripening sorts. Belle 
 Magnifique opened before Arch Duke or Late Duke, and 
 full a week before Reine Hortense or the common Morello. 
 Early Richmond and Kirtland opened just after Late 
 Duke, and Louis Phillip came in two days thereafter. 
 
 These notes are made from numerous varieties noted, 
 and if others count the point anything, we hope they will 
 communicate or publish their observations. 
 
PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, ETC. 63 
 
 Without presuming that the blooming period of straw- 
 berries has aught to do with the period at which they ripen 
 their fruit, as it is well known some mature quickly after 
 blooming, while others occupy a greater length of time, 
 yet as we went among our strawberry beds, we could but 
 note that of Wilson, Downer and Nicanor quite a show of 
 flowers appeared. Large Early Scarlet, Green Prolific, 
 La Constante, Triomphe de Gand, Jucunda, and Lady 
 Finger had each a few, while Ida, Hovey, Lucas, Napo- 
 leon III, Agriculturist, Kramer, Bishop, French's Seedling, 
 King Arthur, and many more, had scarce a bloom open. 
 
 PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, 
 
 AND WHAT TO DO, ETC. 
 
 Years ago we wrote as follows, but deem it to-day ap- 
 plicable, and so quote one of our old articles : — The pro- 
 fusion of bloom on my dwarf pears admonishes me of 
 what must be required of the roots to enable them to set 
 and hold their fruit. I know they will set ; but soon after 
 that, unless the roots are all vigorous and supply food 
 in abundance, more or less, and perhaps all, will drop; 
 so now is my time to go among them and clip away. 
 1 know it seems bad at first view, but all horticultur- 
 ists must remember that it takes time to mature fruit or 
 flower ; such creations are not like mechanics, the work 
 of hands, and controlled by man at will, but must be con- 
 trolled by the laws of nature while guided by the hand of 
 man. So let us cut away as soon as the flower opens, if 
 
64 PROFUSION OF BLOOMS, ETC. 
 
 we can, but any way as soon as the fruit sets, and so de- 
 liver the tree of its over-burden, and save to ourselves a 
 fair crop of fine fruit. 
 
 Now is my time too, I think, to sow my plaster, and I 
 shall take my early morning time, when the dew is heavy, 
 and sow from half a pint to a pint over each tree, for as 
 it falls on the foliage and flower it will hold and assimilate 
 the ammonia, making apparent its good effects for several 
 weeks to come. 
 
 Yesterday was half rainy, and, looking over my record, 
 or map, of the trees, etc., on my place, it occurred to me 
 that some had died and been replaced, with varieties of 
 another sort. So I went over my ground in the interven- 
 ing of showers, took down names, and then, in the house, 
 recorded them in my book. T have found the best way of 
 labeling trees or vines for permanent orchard or vineyard, 
 is to make a little map of the grounds > and then designate 
 row, number, and position in row, of each kind, in a book. 
 The loss of labels attached to each tree or vine is then of 
 little account, as a reference to the book enables me to 
 correct or supply the name without error. It also enables 
 me to say of a surety from whom I received the plant, 
 because at the end of each name of the variety, I add the 
 initials or name of the person, or persons, from whom re- 
 ceived ; and so, if the variety prove incorrect, I know 
 whom to blame. 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 In the preparation of this work no attempt at strictly 
 pomological description of any variety is offered. The 
 object being to make plain ; after instructions how to 
 plant, bud, graft, etc.; the varieties that it is most politic 
 to obtain and cultivate. 
 
 A selection has been carefully made, for sections ac- 
 cording to latitude of climate, and a table made giving the 
 true name of the variety, and its size, form, color, quality, 
 use and season, following the terms of the American Po- 
 mological Society. The period of ripening cannot be 
 given in a simple table, because of the varied climate in 
 which the fruit may be grown. A few varieties are suited 
 to all our climates, but the period of maturing varies. 
 
 It is unnecessary to give a list of the 2700 varieties of 
 apples, or more, as well as that of pears, whose numbers 
 are nearly the same, as it would be for a fruit grower to 
 grow them all and expect profit. The cherries, plums, 
 peaches, grapes, etc., number about one-third each of ap- 
 ples and pears, and yearly of all fruits new varieties are 
 introduced. 
 
 The writer has had forty years of knowledge in the 
 study of fruits and their culture, over a large territory, 
 and the making of the selection of a # few, which in truth 
 
66 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 is best for the grower, has given him many hours of 
 thought. It is not presumed that the lists given will meet 
 every man's ideas, but it is assumed that the varieties 
 named are among the best and the longest tested as to 
 hardihood and productive value, and therefore best for 
 him who wants to plant for profit or his own use. The 
 amateur can expend money and time perhaps to good ad- 
 vantage for his own 'knowledge, and that of others, if he 
 has the courtesy to publish what he has learned. The 
 leading nurserymen are alive to the subject matter, and 
 ready to supply buds, grafts or small trees of sorts new, 
 and sent out as exceedingly valuable. 
 
 THE APPLE. 
 
 We count the Apple as the King of fruits, because it is 
 more generally known and used than any other. Apples 
 are considered more nutricious than potatoes, indeed, 
 many go so far as to think that they contain more brain 
 food than any other fruit or vegetable. However that 
 may be, they certainly exert a healthful influence upon the 
 whole system when eaten raw or cooked in the most sim- 
 ple manner. When compounded with butter, eggs and 
 flour, they are far less wholesome than when baked or 
 steamed. Apples nicely baked and served with cream 
 are a delicious dish, and an ingenious housekeeper can 
 easily devise numerous ways of preparing them for the 
 table. Many methods have been suggested for keeping 
 apples in a good condition through the winter. One is to 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 67 
 
 wrap each apple — as oranges and lemons are wrapped for 
 importation — in paper ; old newspapers will answer. Pa- 
 per is not only impervious to air, but serves to keep the 
 fruit at a uniform temperature. Another method of pre- 
 serving apples is to put some dry, fine sand into each bar- 
 rel and shake it down very gently ; powdered plaster is 
 sometimes used instead of sand. Another way is to pit 
 the apples in a dry sandy soil. A hole three or four feet 
 deep should be dug, the fruit put in upon dry straw and 
 covered with a layer of straw and dry earth. The earth 
 should be raised above the general level of the ground, so 
 as to shed rain. When thus protected, the apples are 
 said to keep well until spring. 
 
 With the rapidly increasing settlement of our North- 
 western States and Territories, and the universal desire of 
 an intelligent people to cultivate fruit, the subject of va- 
 rieties adapted to the climate becomes yearly more and 
 more important. Although it has been somewhat exten- 
 sively discussed, the vital point, even at this time, is com- 
 paratively but little understood. That the apple, in some 
 of its varieties, can be grown wherever a crop of corn can 
 be ripened, is beyond doubt ; yet the selection of varie- 
 ties, to command success, has thus far been an item of 
 costly experiment, and to-day is but imperfectly known. 
 But one single variety, belonging to the class designated 
 by botanists as Pyrus malus, named and described in the 
 books as the Duchess of Oldenburgh, has fully stood the 
 test uninjured in all locations. Many others prove com- 
 paratively hardy ; and, as both variety as well as period 
 of maturity are required, the planter has necessarily had 
 
68 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 to assume a risk in selection, which, in some cases, has 
 been well rewarded, while in many others it has failed. 
 The record of one dealer is, that " out of one hundred 
 thousand apple trees, comprising varieties such as North- 
 ern Spy, Fall Pippin, etc., sold by him and planted in 
 Minnesota, not one hundred remained at the expiration 
 of ten years." 
 
 It may be this is an extreme case ; but certainly the 
 failures have been more numerous than the successes, un- 
 til many have said our Northwestern States were not 
 adapted to the growth of any but the small fruits, such as 
 currants, gooseberries, etc., etc. Enthusiasm, careful 
 observation and perseverance, however, in this, as in all 
 pursuits, is destined to secure success ; and to this end 
 we find the fruit growers, both professional and amateur, 
 of the Northwest have, during the past few years, devo- 
 ted themselves so assiduously that the exhibition tables of 
 Horticultural Societies have this past season been sup- 
 plied with a new class of apples, which, while they have 
 not the size of a large proportion of old named varieties 
 of the Pyrus wains, possess richness of flesh and eatable 
 quality almost, if not quite, equaling them ; and from 
 their botanical character in tree — the Pyrus baccata — a 
 hardihood that insures success to the planter. 
 
 With the apple, therefore we commence our table list of 
 the varieties we advise mainly to plant. As before said, 
 there are numerous varieties which can be obtained, but 
 many of them have only a local reputation of experience 
 touching their value. 
 
 The abbreviations in the following table of apples, are 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 69 
 
 to be understood following the columns, say of Size: 1., 
 for large; m., medium ; s., small. The Form, r. c.,for 
 roundish conical; ob., oblong; r. ob., roundish oblate; 
 r., roundish. The Color, y. r., for yellow and red; r. s., 
 for red striped ; g. y., for greenish yellow ; rus., for rus- 
 setted ; y. rus., for yellow and russet. The Quality, g., 
 good ; v. g., very good ; b., best. Use, f ., fruit valuable 
 for all family purposes; k. m., valuable for kitchen or 
 market; f. m., family or market. Season, s., summer; 
 e. a., early autumn ; 1. a., late autumn; w., winter ; Ori- 
 gin, Rus., for Russian ; En. for English ; Am., for Ameri- 
 can ; Ger., for German ; F., for Foreign. 
 
 All these characters, of course, only designate leading, 
 positive features, and vary in their distinctness according 
 to soil and climate in which they are grown. 
 
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 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
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 A variety of value. 
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VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 73 
 
 VARIETIES SUITED TO LATITUDES. 
 
 Having now given a table of a select list of varieties of 
 the Apple, we will here designate those which we count 
 most valuable for the range of climate. The periods of 
 ripening are given in the foregoing table, as near as can 
 be computed, over the whole territory of the United States. 
 
 LIST FOR THE LATITUDE ABOVE 43. 
 
 Varieties: Gravenstein, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Te- 
 tofsky, Red Astrachan, Hawthornden, are varieties of for- 
 eign origin, but trees hardy and productive. Bentley's 
 Sweet, American Golden Russet, Porter, Fameuse, Jona- 
 than, Winesap, Benoni, Ohio Nonpariel, Pome Gris, Red 
 Canada, Lady Apple, Maiden's Blush, Bethlehemite, Kes- 
 wick Codlin, Wealthy, Gilpin, Ribston Pippin, Mother, 
 Lowell, Early Strawberry, Peck's Pleasant, St. Lawrence, 
 Tewksbury, Winter Blush, are varieties of reputed hardi- 
 hood, and productive. Lady Crab, Marengo, Hyslop, 
 Coral, Chicago, Chase's Winter Sweet; Cherry, Hutchin- 
 son's Winter Sweet, White Winter, .Transcendant, Pow- 
 ers' Large, are of the Crab-apple class, and all regarded 
 as of value, where others fail. The above line of latitude 
 ranges all above the vicinity of Boston, Mass., striking 
 above Buffalo, N. Y. and Lansing in Michigan, and so on 
 to the Pacific Ocean, with varying ideas of that broad 
 shore. 
 
 We present herewith a few illustrations of what are 
 called Crab-apples, believing them to be of value where 
 trees of a more delicate nature cannot be grown. 
 
74 
 
 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 MARENGO. 
 
 TRANSCEND ANT 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 75 
 
 LIST OF LATITUDES FROM 43 DOWN TO 40. 
 
 This line includes Boston, Mass., and reaches down on 
 the Atlantic to Burlington and Trenton, in New Jersey, 
 to Philadelphia and Wheeling, in Pennsylvania and West 
 Virginia, ranging fifty miles or more above Columbus in 
 Ohio, about the same above Indianapolis, Indiana, strik- 
 ing near Springfield, Illinois, and somewhat above St. Jo- 
 seph, in Iowa, Lincoln or Nebraska City in Nebraska, 
 and so on to Salt Lake City. 
 
 Varieties: American Summer Pearmain, Benoni, Red 
 Astrachan, Early Strawberry, Williams' Favorite, Summer 
 Rose, Ohio Nonpariel, Maiden's Blush, Large Sweet 
 Bough, Golden Sweeting, Keswick Codlin, Graven stein, 
 Lowell, Porter, Jefferies, Fameuse, Duchess of Olden- 
 burgh, Jersey Sweet, Bethlehemite, Baltimore, Broadwell, 
 Bentley's Sweet, Evening Party, Winesap, Baldwin, Cogs- 
 well, W T agner, Westfield Seeknofarther, Hubbardston, 
 Nonesuch, Fall Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Swaar, 
 Mother, Lady's Sweet, Lady Apple, Jonathan, Red Can- 
 ada, Smith's Cider, Northern Spy, Wealthy. 
 
 LIST FOR LATITUDES FROM 40 DOWN TO 37. 
 
 This takes in Maryland, most of West Virginia and Vir- 
 ginia, North Carolina, Southern Ohio, Southern Illinois, 
 Southern Indiana, somewhat of Iowa, most of Missouri, 
 some of Kansas and Kentucky. 
 
 We feel compelled to select list for the latitude of 40 to 
 37, to twenty varieties, as follows : 
 
 Carolina Red June, American Summer Pearmain, Red 
 Astrachan, Summer Rose, Maiden's Blush, Smith's 
 
76 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 Cider, Ben Davis, Buckingham, Winesap, American 
 Golden Russet, McAfee's Nonesuch, Pryor's Red, 
 Shockley, Rawles' Ganet, Hewes' Virginia Crab, Willow 
 Twig, Yellow Newtown Pippin, Nickajack, Gilpin, 
 Green Cheese. 
 
 THE LATITUDE BELOW 37. 
 
 It is reckless and useless to make any list of apples to 
 be grown in this region of our United States territory. 
 Evidently, from what we read, the growers themselves 
 know not of what they grow or its value. 
 
 Editors and critics who doubt this statement, may turn 
 and take from the best records of the American Pomologi- 
 cal Society's Transactions, and learn what the fruit grow- 
 ers of the grand South know relative to the value of ap- 
 ples in their region. It has been the unfortunate lot of 
 the writer, ever to have met one from the extreme South 
 who could give favorable record of any one variety of the 
 apple. 
 
 PEARS. 
 
 The Pear is said to be the Prince of fruits, because of 
 its delicacy, juiciness and rich melting flesh. In this 
 work, written for the plain public, we have classed the 
 apple as King. 
 
 Our selection of varieties, will by many be ignored, 
 yet we feel that when we name a variety to be grown, we 
 do so knowingly of its past-time value, and hence the 
 probability of its future. Willing to give credit to those 
 who have aided in the introduction and culture of this 
 valuable fruit, we must say that there is in it a feature of 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 77 
 
 decay called "blight," that appears all unknown. The 
 most intelligent of horticulturist apparently have no ex- 
 plicit idea of what the blight is, or how it may be checked. 
 
 Various remedies for the blight have been recommended, 
 but no one proves a specific. A healthy growth of the 
 tree, in a soil moist yet dry, i. e., void of stagnant water 
 at the base of the roots, is about the only preventive. 
 
 As, with the apple, the selection of varieties has been 
 made to meet the wants of the public rather than minis- 
 tering to the fancy of amateurs. So, also, has our list 
 been classed as to latitude, fully .designated as to bound- 
 aries under head of the apple. 
 
 In the list of size, color, form, etc., we here also copy 
 from the American Pomological Society's Catalogue, as 
 follows : 
 
 The columns explain. Size — s. small ; 1. large; m. me- 
 dium, Flower — p. pyriform ; r. o. p. roundish, obtuse 
 pyriform ; r. a. p. roundish, acute pyriform ; ob. p. obtuse 
 pyriform; r. roundish ; r. ob. roundish obtuse. Color — 
 y. g. yellow or yellowish green, with a red or russet-red 
 cheek ; y. r. yellow and russet ; y. when mostly yellow or 
 yellowish. Quality — g. good ; v. g. very good; b. best. 
 Use — f. valuable family desert ; k. m. kitchen and mar- 
 ket ; f. m. family and market. Season — s. summer ; 1. s. 
 late summer ; a. autumn ; e. a. early autumn ; 1. a. late 
 autumn; w. winter. Origin — En. English; Am. Amer- 
 ican ; F. French ; Fl. Flemish ; B. Belgium ; H. Holland. 
 
 With apples, our list ranges ten to forty ; with pears we 
 reduce and make it ten to thirty. Our list of the best is 
 as follows : 
 
78 
 
 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
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VARIETIES <)F FRUITS. 
 
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8o 
 
 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 LIST OF TEN TO THIRTY VARIETIES, 
 
 Valuable north of 43 degrees of latitude for our range. 
 For the period of ripening, etc., see table : 
 
 Abbot, Ananas d'Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre 
 Bosc, Beurre d'Anjou, Beurre Diel, Beurre Giffard, Beurre 
 Superfin, Bloodgood, Brandywine, BurTum, Clapp's Favor- 
 ite, Fulton, Dearborn's Seedling, Flemish Beauty, Doctor 
 Reeder, Howell, Kirtland, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de 
 Jersey, Onondaga, Tyson, Seckel, Winter Nelis, Mc- 
 Laughlin, Beurre Coit, Souvenier de Congress, Goodale, 
 Doyenne Boussock. 
 
 DOCTOR REEDER PEAR. 
 
 This exceedingly valuable new pear originated with Dr. 
 Henry Reeder, Varick, Seneca county, N. Y., from 
 seed of a Winter Nelis pear, the tree of which grew near 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 8t 
 
 *a Seckel. The fruit in form resembles the Seckel, while, 
 with the rich, honied sweetness of that variety, it has also 
 the juicy, sprightly vivacity of the Winter Nelis. The 
 original tree is about twelve years old, and as yet has been 
 but little disseminated. We are indebted to Messrs. Ell- 
 w anger & Barry of Rochester, N. Y., for specimens 
 from which we have made the accompanying drawing and 
 description. The variety is generally known under the 
 name of Dr. Reeder's Seedling, by whieh it was noticed 
 first in American Pomological Society's Transactions by 
 Charles Downing. 4 
 
 Fruit small in size, globular, obtuse pyriform, pale yel- 
 low, mostly overspread with a smooth, warm, cinnamon 
 russet, — stem slender, nearly three-fourths of an inch long, 
 set in a broad, open, moderately deep cavity, having oc- 
 casionally a slight lip on one side; calyx open, large for 
 size of fruit, with erect, divided, rounded' segments ; basin 
 shallow, broad, smooth and open ; flesh yellowish white, 
 fine grained, juicy, melting, almost buttery, sprightly, 
 sweet, and slightly aromatic ; best in quality ; core medi- 
 um ; seeds blackish ; season early November. 
 
 The list for latitude 43 down to 40, we advise the fol- 
 lowing: 
 
 Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Clair- 
 geau, Beurre d'Anjou, Doyenne de Cornice, Beurre Gif- 
 fard, Beurre Superfine, Brandy wine, Marechal de la Cour, 
 Clapp's Favorite, Doyenne Boussock, Doyenne d'Ete, 
 Duchess d'Angouleme, Flemish Beauty, Clout Morceau, 
 Howell, Josephine de Malines, Kirtland, Louise bon de 
 Jersey, Lawrence, Onondaga, Rostiezer, White Dovenne 
 
 6. 
 
82 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 Seckel, Sheldon, Tyson, Stevens' Genesee, Vicar of Wake- 
 field, Winter Nelis. 
 
 From latitude 40 down to 37, we offer the following as 
 the best list: 
 
 Ananas d'Ete, Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Bosc, 
 Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d'Anjou, Beurre Giffard, Beurre 
 Langlier, Beurre Superfine, Clapp's Favorite, Dana's 
 Hovey, Dearborn's Seedling, Doyenne de Cornice, Mare- 
 chal de la Cour, Emile de Heyst, Beurre Easter, Glout 
 Morceau, Duchess d'Angouleme, Doctor Reeder, Jose- 
 phine de Malines, Lawrence, Louise Bonne de Jersey, 
 Mount Vernon, Onondaga, Rostiezer, Princes St. Ger- 
 main, Tyson, and Winter Nelis. 
 
 From latitude 37 and below the following have repute: 
 
 Bartlett, Belle Lucrative, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d' 
 Anjou, Beurre Superfine, Bloodgood, Buffum, Brandy- 
 wine, Doyenne d'Ete, Beurre Easter, Duchess d'Angou- 
 leme, Howell, Lawrence, Onondaga, Kirtland, Seckel, 
 Doctor Reeder, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Giffard, Flemish 
 Beauty, Rostiezer, St. Michael Archangel, Tyson, Winter 
 Nelis, Madelaine, Dearborn's Seedling, Jaminette, Jose- 
 phine de Molines, St. Ghislain. 
 
 THE CHERRY. 
 
 This fruit has its special localities, perhaps more than 
 any other ; and while at the extreme north some varieties 
 succeed, most of the sweet varieties fail. From latitude 
 43 down to 40 we may count as the region for the profit- 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 83 
 
 able growing of good, rich, sweet cherries. Below the 
 latitude of 40, say to 37, some varieties succeed, and it is 
 well to keep planting. The same varieties named in our 
 remarks hereafter as best, for from 40 to 37, are equally- 
 good for the lower and warmer latitudes. Although the 
 Cherry numbers less of varieties than the Apple or Pear, 
 the selection of those suited to various sections is one re- 
 quiring careful thought and knowledge. We have made 
 our list to run from 10 to 20 varieties for latitude. Our 
 table of terms, as to size, form, etc., is made from the 
 American Pomological Society's Catalogue, for we have 
 full confidence in that Association, made up of the best 
 pomological intelligence of the world. 
 
 Size — 1, large; m, medium; s, small. Form — ob h, 
 obtuse, heart shape; r, ob, h, roundish, obtuse, heart 
 shape; r, h, roundish, heart shape, roundish or round. 
 Color — 1, r, lively bright red; d, r, dark red, almost 
 black ; a, m, amber mottled with red ; y, r, yellow ground 
 shaded and mottled with red. Class — H, Hearts, or ten- 
 der fleshed sweet cherries; B, Bigarreau, or firm fleshed; 
 D, Dukes, having a character in tree and fruit midway 
 between the Hearts and Morellos ; M, Morello, having 
 acid fruit, and the tree of small growth. Use — f, family, 
 for dessert ; fm, family or market ; k m, cooking or mar- 
 ket ; m, market. Season — e, early ; m, medium, 1, late. 
 Origin — f , foreign ; a, American . 
 
8 4 
 
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86 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 LIST OF VARIETIES FOR LATITUDES. 
 
 The range of latitude our readers will please refer to the 
 apple. 
 
 SELECTIONS FOR LATITUDES ABOVE 43. 
 
 Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle Magnifique, Carna- 
 tion, Dauphine, Donna Maria, Early May, Flemish, Im- 
 peratrice Eugenie, Imperial Morello, Jeffreys 'Duke, Kent- 
 ish or Early Richmond, Kirtland's Morello, Louis Phil- 
 ippe, May Duke, Morello English, Plumstone Morello, 
 Reine Hortense, Royal Duke, Vail's August Duke. 
 
 SELECTIONS FROM 43 DOWN TO 40 . 
 
 Arch Duke, Belle de Choisy, Belle of Orleans, Black 
 Tartarian, Black Hawk, Coe's Transparent, Caroline, Da- 
 cota, Early Prolific, Early Purple Guigne, Elton, Governor 
 Wood, Kennicott, Kentish or Early Richmond, Louis Phil- 
 ippe, Ohio Beauty, Pontiac, Powhatan, Rockport, Red 
 Jacket. 
 
 SELECTION OF LATITUDE 40 DOWN TO 37. 
 
 Arch Duke, Belle Magnifique, Belle de Choisy, Carna- 
 tion, Donna Maria, Kentish or Early Richmond (all one 
 and the same), Downer's Late, Dacota, Flemish, Gridley, 
 Late Duke, Louis Philippe, May Duke, Morello English, 
 Nouvelle Royale, Powhatan, Reine Hortense, Red Jacket, 
 Sparhawk's Honey. 
 
 The above list is as valuable for all latitudes below 37 
 degrees as can be made under the present record of in- 
 telligence. 
 
 We give here illustrations of Ohio Beauty, Fig. 1, and 
 Donna Maria, Fig. 2. 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS, 
 
 87 
 
 Fig. i. 
 
 Fig 
 
88 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 APRICOTS AND NECTARINES. 
 
 Of these only a few can be grown by the multitude of 
 the people. Too much care in the pruning is requisite, 
 and also it is requisite that an exposure of heat and sun 
 light be given the tree. 
 
 The Apricot is beautiful in its growth, and especially 
 when it is in bloom. It should be worked upon the Plum, 
 and the growth yearly kept shortened by pinching off the 
 ends of strong shoots and rubbing away the feeble buds. 
 We make no table for these two varieties of fruits, viz., 
 Apricots and Nectarines, for the reason that above 42 of 
 latitude it is unwise to attempt to grow them. 
 
 We name but few, but those we do name are of the 
 hardiest in tree and best in quality. 
 
 Breda — is small, said to originate in x\frica. The tree 
 is one of the hardiest. The. fruit, roundish in form, a 
 dark orange in color, with flesh orange colored, rich and 
 high flavored. 
 
 Hemskirke — is one of the largest and best. Orange 
 color, with a red cheek ; flesh bright orange color; juicy, 
 rich and lucious flavor. 
 
 Large Early — This comes to us from France. The 
 tree is vigorous and it is early in ripening. Fruit of me- 
 dium size, pale orange, with blotches of red in the sun; 
 flesh, orange colored, separating readily from the stone, 
 rich and juicy. 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 89 
 
 Moorpark — Has a great reputation. It is large when 
 grown with care, but not productive. Orange color. 
 
 Roman — One of the hardiest of trees. Fruit of middle 
 size, pale yellow ; flesh soft, but rather dry. 
 
 , THE NECTARINE. 
 
 With this we shall deal less in number than with the 
 apricot. Unfortunately the curculio is the destroyer of 
 these as well as of the plum, and few care to fight against 
 it. To grow it successfully even more attention and care 
 is requisite than with the Apricot or Plum. 
 
 Early Newington — is a clingstone. Fruit large, round- 
 ish ovate; color, a green ground nearly covered with • red 
 of mottled and marbled shades. The flesh is of a greenish 
 white, deep red at the stone ; juicy, sugary, and excellent. 
 
 Elruge — Esteemed as one of the best. It is of English 
 origin, and when correctly trained by pinching of the shoots 
 it is one of the most productive. Unless this is done no 
 grower need to expect to furnish good nectarines. 
 
 Violette Hative — This variety, with fifteen or more syn- 
 onyms, has been everywhere grown, and to-day has the 
 highest rank in its class. It is of delicious flavor, hardy 
 and productive. It is of French origin, and has fruit 
 rather large, narrowed at the top. Color, pale yellowish 
 green, with marbled red in open sun. Flesh, whitish, but 
 much rayed with red at the stone; melting, juicy, rich, 
 and high flavored. 
 
9 o 
 
 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 THE PEACH. 
 
 The Peach is a native of Persia and China. It was 
 brought into this country somewhere about 1680. Its 
 success here has been to make it the Queen of fruits. 
 
 A selection of varieties to the various latitudes is a dif- 
 ficult matter, yet we shall try to do it. 
 
 Above 43 it cannot be grown in the open air. 
 
 The list of new varieties is yearly on the increase, and 
 some prove of value. The greater number, however, fail 
 to meet expectations. 
 
 The following remarks of J . J. Thomas, one of our most 
 intelligent horticulturists, in a report to the American Pom- 
 ological Society, deserve thought and attention of every 
 fruit grower : 
 
 ' ' During the early period of fruit culture in this country, 
 a long list of varieties was regarded as a special merit in 
 any collection, and the nurseryman who could present the 
 largest catalogue stood at the head of his profession. This 
 led to the cultivation of many sorts of little value, and it 
 became an object of importance to separate the valuable 
 from the worthless. * * * A great change has taken 
 place of later years, and collections of fruits for profit, as 
 well as for home use, have been reduced to a few select 
 sorts, the amateur and student of pomology only desiring 
 a wider range. * * * The lists which are now wanted 
 are of such sorts as the cultivators may plant for use." 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 91 
 
 The variation of our climate and soils, makes this selec- 
 tion of a few out of the hundreds one of the difficult 
 tasks. In this little work we have attempted it, but with- 
 out doubt we have omitted many varieties that are of 
 value in their special localities ; but while we have tried 
 to confine our range to climate rather than to soil, we have 
 also in our chapter on soils and locations endeavored to 
 briefly state the subject. The rules of time and hoiv to 
 prune have also changed, and while our chapter on pruning 
 may not meet the views of many growers, yet we have 
 written what practise and observation have taught us. 
 Authors disagree, and synonyms of varieties abound. 
 
 We shall make our table descriptive of form, size, etc., 
 as before, in one, and then name the varieties suited, as 
 we judge best, for the range of country our latitude lines 
 state. The columns explain as follows : 
 
 Size — 1, large ; m, medium ; s, small. Class — f, free- 
 stone ; c, clingstone. Color, relative to the flesh — w, white 
 or pale colored ; y, yellow or yellowish ; g, greenish white, 
 red at stone. Quality — j v, juicy, vinous; m j r, melt- 
 ing, juicy, rich; s j, sweet, juicy Glands — s, serrated, 
 without glands ; g, glands globose ; r, glands reniform. 
 Season — In forming this table we have endeavored to 
 follow the American Pomological Society's catalogue, but 
 find that there the terms of period of ripening take 43 de- 
 grees of latitude, so in our list of varieties for each latitude 
 we shall designate them as very early, early, medium , late, 
 and very late. 
 
 The column of origin, Am. is a designation of American, 
 f, of foreign. 
 
9 2 
 
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VARIETIES OF FRUITS 
 
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94 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 VARIETIES OF THE PEACH ADVISED FOR LATITUDE 
 
 43 TO 4o. 
 
 We name as very early, Early York and Haine's Early; 
 for early, Alberge Yellow and Yellow Rareripe ; for me- 
 dium, Oldmixon Free and Crawford's Early ; for late, Fos- 
 ter and Late Admirable ; for very late, Hyslop's Cling and 
 Ward's Late Free. If it be desirable in a large orchard 
 to extend the list to twenty varieties, then Alexander, 
 Early Beatrice ; for very early, Cole's Early Red ; for early 
 to medium, Cooledge's Favorite, Grosse Mignonne, George 
 the Fourth, Jacques' Rareripe, Morris White, Snow, and 
 Magdala. 
 
 PEACHES FOR LATITUDE 40 TO 37. 
 
 Alexander,' Amsden's June,EarlyBeatrice, for very early ; 
 Alberge Yellow, Bergen Yellow, Early York, for early ; 
 Cooledge s Favorite, Crawford's Early, George the Fourth, 
 Snow, Grosse Mignonne, Oldmixon Freestone, Scott's 
 Nonpareil, Noblesse, for medium ; Lemon Cling, Surpasse, 
 Melocoton, for late j Smock Free, Stump the World, Sus- 
 quehanna for very late. 
 
 PEACHES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37 
 
 Nearly all of the above named varieties are valued at 
 the South , and the range from 40 may be strictly and truly 
 said to cover the whole list of varieties we have given. 
 The only item in all is, the popularity of a variety as to 
 its value for market. From 40 degrees of latitude down, 
 the seedlings are yearly being brought to notice and com- 
 mended. We shall only name a few, viz. : Alexander, 
 
VARIETIES Of FRUITS. 95 
 
 Chick's Early, Connor's White, Darby, Governor, Im- 
 proved Pyramidal, Amelia, Muscogea, Thurber, Tuskuna. 
 
 PLUMS. 
 
 The Plum is highly esteemed both as a dessert and 
 cooking fruit. It is stated that the original parent of our 
 cultivated varieties is a native of Asia. There are besides 
 the cultivated varieties, known botanically as Prunus do- 
 mestical many others, native of our own country. They 
 are known under various botanical terms, Prunus Chicasa, 
 Prunus Americana, Prunus Maratima, and in general 
 terms called Chickasaw, to the latter of which belong the 
 varieties called Wild Goose, Newman, Mountain Plum , In- 
 dian Chief, one of the Chicasa family. The North and 
 the South can depend for hardiness only upon what we 
 call native varieties. Vermont can do little with our cul- 
 tivated varieties, except in certain localities, and so with 
 all the extreme north ; while the records from South Caro- 
 lina, Georgia, Tennessee, etc. , give place only to our native 
 wild varieties. Ohio and westward had originally many 
 varieties of wild Plums, from round to oval, color from 
 dark purple to red and yellow, time of maturity from Sep- 
 tember to midwinter, if the later were not gathered. The 
 trade in these native wild plums was at one time a large 
 source of profit, but the clearing up of the country has 
 destroyed them as it has blackberries. 
 
 The plum to be of value should hang upon the tree 
 until perfectly ripe, no matter what the variety. This, 
 
g6 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 with every other fruit, requires thinning to give it size and 
 flavor. Certain varieties are made into what we call Prunes, 
 such as the St. Catherine and Prune d'Agen. The Blue 
 Plum, Damson, Frost Gage, German Prune, Cruger's Scar- 
 let, also may be used for this purpose in our warm sections 
 of climate. 
 
 ACCLIMATION, INSECTS, ETC. 
 
 Many discussions in regard to the hardihood and pro- 
 ductiveness of trees have been written by capable men, 
 South and North. This acclimation of trees to a 
 climate has been the talk of some tree dealers South 
 and West, they claiming great superiority for those of the 
 same sorts when grown in Tennessee and Alabama over 
 the growths of New York and Massachusetts ; but after 
 traveling not a little, and carefully examining, we have 
 failed to find anything to support the statements — in fact 
 we have frequently found orchards of trees obtained from 
 the North superior to those of trees grown from the bud 
 at the South. We have, therefore, no faith in acclimation. 
 We do not believe change of climate will change the natu- 
 ral order of the tree or plant. If any one does, we should 
 like him to give some tangible proof of his beliefs — some- 
 thing beside imaginary theory. 
 
 The insects, etc., connected with Plum culture has occu- 
 pied many pages of matter of late years, but mainly results 
 in the fact that to preserve the crop from the curculio or 
 plum weevil {Rynihanus Nenuphar), a small dark brown 
 beetle with spots of white, yellow, and black. The reme- 
 dies given for destruction of this insect, or for prevention 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 97 
 
 of its destructive agency, are many, but the two we now 
 name are the most reliable. 
 
 One is of a man whose orchard of plums was in a sandy, 
 loamy soil. It was plowed lightly with a one-horse plow 
 early in spring, the plow cutting a little more than two 
 inches deep. During the summer, until about the first of 
 August, it was cultivated with a horse cultivator about 
 once in two or three weeks, or just often enough to keep 
 the weeds down. As soon as the plum trees opened their 
 blossoms, boys of about fourteen or sixteen years of age 
 were employed at a cost of eight dollars a month and 
 board. In the hands of each boy was placed a pole about 
 ten feet long, on the end of which was fastened a broad - 
 mouthed tin cup, holding about three half-pints; and 
 these boys were kept from the first rays of light in the 
 morning until sundown, going from tree to tree, dipping 
 the sandy loam into their cups and then scattering it 
 among and through the branches of the trees, thus so dis- 
 turbing the curculio that he failed to inflict any material 
 injury on the fruit. In fact the result was, the owner 
 almost wished the boys were not quite so faithful in their 
 work ; for, if he could have had one-fourth the plums 
 thinned out, the crop would have been better, becaues 
 the plums would have been larger. 
 
 This work of curculio hunting or disturbing was con- 
 tinued steadily from the time of the first setting of the 
 fruit — which is even before the whole of the blossoms 
 have fallen — until it was more than half grown. Some 
 few trees which were outside of the regular orchard, in 
 turf ground, or where the surface could not well be stirred, 
 
 7 
 
^8 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 were supplied with a heap of ashes or sand from which to 
 load the cups. 
 
 The second prevention, and one now most generally, is 
 that of giving the tree a sudden and severe jar by means 
 of a mallet or pole, so protected with India rubber or 
 gutta percha that it will not bruise the bark. When it can 
 be done, without injury to the tree, a large lower limb is 
 sawed off square about two inches from the body of the 
 tree, and the blow given on it to create the sudden jar. 
 
 The Black Knot on plum trees has in many places 
 been a destructive enemy to the trees. We have known 
 the following to be successful as a remedy : — Take a paint 
 brush, dip it in spirits of turpentine, and thoroughly satu- 
 rate the knot, being careful not to touch the tree except 
 in the diseased part. It stops the knot, and the tree puts 
 out healthy branches below it. Be careful to burn all 
 branches removed in pruning. As the summer is the 
 time the mischief is done, every fresh excrescence should 
 be pared off, the turpentine applied, and it will harden in 
 a week. 
 
 Having said so much touching the value and troubles 
 •of the plum and its culture, we will make out our regular 
 table list, copied in form from the Am. Pom. Society, and 
 following as with other fruits, give our views of the values 
 in certain latitudes to a certain number of varieties. The 
 •columns explain after names as follows : Size — 1, large ; 
 m, medinm ; s, small. Color — p, purplish or very dark 
 red ; r, reddish or copper color ; y, yellow ; g, y, green- 
 ish yellow ; y, r, yellowish with shades and spots of red. 
 For?n — r, roundish ; o, oval; r, o, roundish oval ; o, ob, 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 99 
 
 oval obolate. Quality— g, good; v, g, very good; b, 
 best. Use— f, family; m, market. 
 
 In our table we must drop the naming of the season, 
 inasmuch as the one who made up the Am. Pom. Soci- 
 ety's transactions in 1873, undertook to control them as 
 ripening at a high latitude, rather than take an average 
 center of the United States. 
 
 The Origin— Am,- American ; F, Foreign, we give in 
 column, — and in our names of varieties of latitudes will 
 try to keep in mind record of the period those counted as 
 very early, early, medium, late and very late. 
 
 We make what we think is a select list of varieties, and 
 yet, we, in naming twenty varieties for one man's culture, 
 may omit others that with care and attention would prove 
 equally good. 
 
IOO 
 
 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
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102 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 VARIETIES FOR ABOVE LATITUDE 43. 
 
 For very early — Cherry, Jaime Hative. For early or 
 medium — Bleeker's Gage, Copper, Cruger's Scarlet, Ger- 
 man Prune, Italian Prune, Lombard, Red Gage, Mc- 
 Laughlin, Peter's Yellow Gage, Prince's Yellow Gage, 
 Purple, Favorite, St. Catherine, Sharp's Emperor, St. 
 Lawrence. For late — Chckasaw, Damson, Frost Gage, 
 Wild Goose. 
 
 VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 43 TO 40 . 
 
 For very early — Cherry, Jaane Hative. For early and 
 medium — Bleeker's Gage, Bradshaw, Duane's Purple, 
 Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Lawrence's Favor- 
 ite. Lombard, McLaughlin, Prince's Yellow Gage, Pur- 
 ple Favorite, Red Gage, Smith's Orleans, St. Lawrence, 
 Washington. ¥ ox late — Blue Imperatrice, Bavay's Green 
 Gage, Coe's Golden Drop. 
 
 VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE 40 TO 37. 
 
 For very early — Cherry, Jaune Hative. For early to 
 medium — Bleeker's Gage, Bradshaw, Duane's Purple, Ger- 
 man Prune, Green Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Law- 
 rence's Favorite, Lombard, McLaughlin, Red Gage, 
 Sharp's Emperor, Smith's Orleans, St. Catherine. For 
 late — Bavay's Green Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, Frost 
 Gage. 
 
 VARIETIES FOR LATITUDE BELOW 37. 
 
 Our list for this lower line of latitude, we make more 
 from the reports of Southern fruit growers than from our 
 own knowledge. One of the most capable pomologists of 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 IOJ 
 
 the South writes touching the plum as follows : — " The 
 finer classes of plums, such as Gages, etc., cannot be 
 grown except in poultry yards, and then only, if the trees 
 are carefully watched during the period when they set 
 fruit, and until the latter has attained at least half size. 
 Our improved varieties of the Chickasaw type are less lia- 
 ble to the attack of the curculio, and from this type we 
 reap full crops every year. Many new varieties have lately 
 been introduced, and we are confident, that before long, 
 we shall possess a race of plums that will comapare favor- 
 ably in quality with the Gages, but with the additional 
 merit of being better growers and less liable to the attack 
 of the curculio. The season of maturity ranges now from 
 the end of May until the beginning of September." 
 
 With this knowledge from one of the best Southern 
 pomologists, we shall only add a few varieties to their 
 native seedlings. We will start our list with Cherry, 
 Chickasaw, Damson, De Caradenc, Frost Gage, Indian 
 Chief, Lombard, Mountain Plum, Miner, Newman Tem- 
 ple, and Wild Goose. 
 
 THE QUINCE. 
 
 The Quince is indigenous to Germany and the south of 
 Europe. It is a well known hardy fruit tree, and perhaps 
 pecuniarily one of the most profitable of all fruits. Botan- 
 ically it is called Cydonia vulgaris, this name said to have 
 come from the city of Cydon in Crete. Its fruit of fine 
 golden yellow when ripe, resembling that of the orange, 
 
104 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 together with its white and pale pink blossoms, when 
 nearly all the blossoms of other fruit trees are gone, make 
 it both a profitable and ornamental tree of what we may 
 call as second class of growth, for the Quince rarely grows 
 higher than fifteen feet, with a spread of branches fully 
 equal to the height. 
 
 As a fruit for eating raw or uncooked it is not esteemed, 
 but cooked, stewed, or made into marmalade it has few 
 equals. As a jelly it is often used as an appetizer to meats, 
 especially those of delicate poultry. Its juices are said to 
 have a beneficial effect upon asthmatic patients, while 
 mingled with the apple, even when dried, it gives a 
 piquancy to the sauce beyond that of any other fruit. 
 
 It is quite productive when young, and meets a ready 
 market at remunerative prices. It is so firm that it can 
 be shipped long distances without injury; in fact, care- 
 fully packed and confined in a barrel it improves in ap- 
 pearance for many days. The Quince can be easily 
 propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, or small pieces 
 of roots. 
 
 Cuttings prepared in autumn and heeled in during win- 
 ter, then planted out in spring, generally make fine stocks 
 or plants on which to engraft or bud varieties of the pear. 
 The fact of the quince making the most of its roots near 
 the surface, and those small, has a tendency to check the 
 growth of the pear and so cause it to form fruit buds. 
 Propagation by small pieces of the roots is one of easy 
 and all time practice. Simply dig away around an old or 
 well grown tree, and cut from the roots pieces two to four 
 inches in length; set these at an angle of forty-five de- 
 
VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 io 5 
 
 grees in any soil and cover two inches over the top, and 
 growth will ensue. Here perhaps it may not be inappro- 
 priate to place the accompanying cut, showing how not 
 only the Quince proper, but the Blackberry, Raspberry, 
 Japan or Flowering Quince, Sweet Scented Shrub, and 
 other plants that naturally throw up suckers, may be 
 propagated. 
 
 The soil that best suits the Quince is that of a loamy 
 deep character, and overflowed at times of freshets for a 
 day or two. But the tree can be grown profitably upon 
 the poorest soil, by applying on the surface a rich dress- 
 ing of well rotted manure, and then mulching with old 
 litter, leaves, etc. 
 
 The pruning of the Quince is a mere nothing. While 
 young, and even when old, sucker shoots will appear near 
 the crown of the root; these should be removed, and 
 occasionally one of the leading, rapid-growing branches 
 on the tree will require to have three or four inches taken 
 from its end, so as to cause it to make stronger lateral 
 branches, and so produce fruit without any breaking down. 
 Like all other fruits, the thinning out when one-fourth 
 grown of one-fourth of the fruit will cause the balance to 
 become larger, and fully pay the expense of pruning from 
 its increased value. 
 
 Of varieties, the Apple-shaped or Orange-shaped has 
 long been counted the most tender and best. The For- 
 
IC>6 VARIETIES OF FRUITS. 
 
 tugal is, however, superior in quality, but not as pro- 
 ductive. Rea's Seedling has a reputation over the Apple 
 ox Orange shaped. It is somewhat larger, but not as pro- 
 ductive. The most productive and profitable as a market 
 sort is the Angers. The trees are healthy, very productive, 
 and when well ripened and colored will rarely be classed 
 by dealers as other than the Apple or Orange. 
 
 The Pear-shaped is unworthy of culture, and there is a 
 sweet quince, but it is doubtful whether it will fill the 
 place of others. 
 
ADDENDA 
 
 HOME ADORNMENTS.— THE BEAUTIFYING THEREOF. 
 
 The enthusiastic, energetic, world benefiting publisher 
 of this little book, has insisted upon something touching 
 the naming of some of the best flowering shrubs, roses, 
 budding-out plants, perennials, low growing evergreens, 
 vines, etc., etc., and, rather than neglect a duty, we shall 
 attempt to write somewhat of practical use. We do not 
 propose to write an essay on aesthetic horticulture or the 
 science of the art, for all such are but as the bloom from 
 seed first sown in the garden of Eden. But when one 
 has an old barren piece of ground with a tenement upon 
 it, we wish to show how a few hardy flowering shrubs 
 and seeds can make of it a place of beauty, where the 
 children can play and enjoy themselves without hindrance 
 or scoffing from their neighbors. 
 
 Strange ideas enter into the minds of many persons, 
 when the subject of beautifying home surroundings is 
 mentioned in their presence. They will usually utter the 
 far too common and absurd remark that such things are 
 costly, and it is only the rich who can afford them. It 
 certainly costs no more, as a general rule, to build a house 
 ten rods from the highway than one as many feet from it ; 
 and still these latter unsuitable and inappropriate locations 
 
IOS ADDENDA. 
 
 are being occupied almost every day. If lawns are named, 
 rollers, particular kinds of seeds, and lawn mowers are 
 brought to mind ; and while we are ready to admit that 
 a good lawn cannot be made nor kept in first-rate con- 
 dition without these implements, still a grass plat, large 
 or small, occasionally mown, is far better than none. 
 Even a meadow or pasture in front or near a dwelling 
 might add something to its general good appearance. 
 
 The far too common style of arrangement of country 
 homes, is to place the mansion within a few feet of the 
 public road, the barn a few rods in the rear, and the in- 
 tervening space is filled with wood piles or necessary out- 
 buildings. If there is a kitchen garden it is usually situ- 
 ated near the road, at one side of the house, and then 
 enclosed with a picket fence, painted white or white- 
 washed. Where a man owns but a fraction of an acre, 
 such a cluttered arrangement may be admissible and 
 passed without comment ; but upon farms of many acres 
 in extent, it not only shows a sad want of taste, but of 
 broad ideas in regard to the fitness of things in general. 
 A few trees from the forest, planted here and there, cost 
 but little or nothing, and yet how much they add to the 
 beauty and elegance of home surroundings, besides afford- 
 ing an agreeable shade in summer to both man and beast. 
 
 Our idea of an elegant but inexpensive home on a farm 
 where pasture or a meadow is a requisite, is to so arrange 
 it that with moveable fences they can pasture what may 
 be termed the lawn, and yet keep the beauty of flora's 
 gifts. In fact, there are many ways of making home sur- 
 roundings elegant without incurring any extra expense. 
 
ADDENDA. I09 
 
 Farmers in particular are prone to emagine that they can- 
 not afford to spend much time or money in outside deco- 
 rations of their homes, and in many instances it would 
 not be advisable ; but little forethought in the general 
 arrangement of buildings, planting of trees and seeding 
 down land for meadows and pastures, would give to thou- 
 sands of homes an air of elegance and refinement without 
 a penny of additional expense. And after all it is the 
 thinking that is necessary. The man who thinks learns 
 to desire ; and desiring learns to act. 
 
 And he who sees daily the products of the Creator in 
 the form of blossoms to produce fruit, flower, grain or 
 grass, should remember that all of this brought daily to 
 the observation of his children is leading them to purity 
 and truth. 
 
 As an illustration of what may be done at a small ex- 
 pense we offer the following. The property was almost a 
 barren, but in five years paid $4,000 per year from the 
 crops : 
 
 The boundary line on the street and each side is grown 
 with hedge of varieties — some of evergreen, some of 
 flowering shrubs, willows, etc., etc. As you enter from 
 the street — which is on the north of the place — at the 
 left hand is the pond, about in form as per outline on 
 ground plan ; at the south end is a little rock work planted 
 with shrubs, vines, etc., and so more or less of rocks, 
 vines, shrubs, etc., dot the banks of the pond, while trees 
 of ultimate majestic growth cast their shadows over the 
 water. 
 
 Continuing on south beyond the pond is, say eighty 
 
I1Q ADDENDA. 
 
 feet from it, a rustic summer house, with evergreens, 
 shrubs, etc., surrounding and vines entwined upon it. 
 And then the straight lines mark the rows of grapes, 
 while bordering the footpath is a belt of perennials, shrubs, 
 etc., etc., until you reach indications of trees by dots; 
 then skipping a space of some twenty feet, for the pur- 
 pose of passing a wagon, should it be desirable ever so to 
 do, comes a bank, en masse, of flowering shrubs against 
 the footpath, backed up with dwarf apples and pears, until 
 within about twenty feet of the line boundary, which space 
 is devoted to strawberries. 
 
 Going back now to the entrance, on the right of the 
 entrance and the carriage road we have beds or masses of 
 rock work, evergreen and flowering shrubs, with elm, 
 weeping poplar, birch, etc., while bordering the carriage 
 way, most of the way to the house, are cherries. A quince 
 and dwarf pear orchard is off at the right, two or three 
 rows of grapes, and then the vegetable garden ; while the 
 stiffness of the avenue of cherries has been broken by 
 throwing out other trees and grouping from place to place, 
 something as my dots indicate. 
 
 An apple and standard pear and peach orchard is south 
 of the garden plot, while on the lawn the flower beds are 
 shown, cut out of and surrounded by grass. 
 
 Directly in front of the house, some twenty feet or so 
 wide, is a bank of rock work planted with vines and ever- 
 green shrubs. Evergreen trees, as well as deciduous orna- 
 mental sorts, are at the right of the house and in among 
 the orchard. The rear portion of this place is blocked 
 out and planted in lines with fruit trees, vines, small fruits, 
 
ADDENDA 
 
 III 
 
 >y 
 
 Fig. i. — Plan of Ground. 
 
!I2 ADDENDA. 
 
 in great abundance; and in the rear of the house are 
 groups of deciduous and evergreen trees for screen, shel- 
 ter, and ornament. 
 
 THE ROSE. 
 
 Now, as the Rose is the pre-eminent flower of all the 
 world and holds supremacy everywhere, we will take hold 
 of it as in the spring. 
 
 The blooming season of roses is again upon us, and 
 every garden is gay with flowers. The more common old 
 sorts of June roses have among them many superb varie- 
 ties unsurpassed in perfection of form and color of flower, 
 if, indeed, they are equaled by any of the Perpetuals or 
 Teas. No Perpetual or Tea can vie in black, deep, vel- 
 vety richness with the old African Belle, or present the 
 rich, purple red of George the Fourth; and when we 
 look at Cerisette, King Richard III, and many others of 
 the old Junes, we cannot refrain -from wishing them 
 always with us ; but it cannot be, or rather it is not now, 
 and as we must have roses all the time, now let us be 
 content with the splendor of such Perpetuals as General 
 Jaqueminot, or the fulness of good old Baronne Provost, 
 touching up the lines with a host more of shades, then 
 resting the eye for a moment on Marshal Neil — for its 
 brilliancy will not admit of long continued gazing at it — 
 and be satisfied. 
 
 After all, while the old June roses are full of beauty, 
 
ADDENDA. 113 
 
 yet possibly we have got about their equals when we come 
 to look over ; for in fact Prince Camille de Rohan will 
 almost equal in intensity of rich blackness old Belle Afri- 
 caine ; and Madame Victor Verdier is quite equal to Ceri- 
 sette ; and then, if we manage them rightly, they give us 
 more or less of blossoms all summer long, and even up to 
 the frosts of winter. 
 
 Each planter must use his own judgment as to selection 
 of kinds and classes, and so, also, as to arrangement of 
 colors. We would not arrange colors at all, the more 
 mixed the better — both colors and sorts, Teas, Bourbons, 
 Noisettes, and Perpetuals ; only, in large beds, we should 
 try to place our largest and strongest growers at the back 
 and in the center, keeping the dwarf sorts, such as Du- 
 petit Thouars, Bourbon, or Lady Byron, Bengal, etc., 
 in front. 
 
 TRAINING ROSES. 
 
 There is also great diversity of opinion as to the form 
 the plants should assume. A good way is the pinching 
 in the ends of the shoots as they grow, and thus compel 
 the plant to throw out side branches, and so perfect the 
 rounded form at the same time that it increases the num- 
 ber of flowers. To our eye, a bed kept in this way is 
 much more attractive than when the plants are permitted 
 to make long, straggling stems here and there. 
 
 Another practice, which is also effective, is to peg down 
 the shoots as they grow, and so literally carpet the whole 
 ground with roses. In beds mainly composed of large old 
 plants of Perpetuals the practice is a good one. Especially 
 if only the long canes of the last year are pegged, while 
 
II4 ADDENDA. 
 
 the older or two or more years ' wood is all cut away ; but 
 in newly planted beds, or those of mixed sorts, we prefer 
 pinching to form little bushes. 
 
 The ground for roses cannot be too deep, nor too rich, 
 if only the enriching compost be well and thoroughly 
 rotted. Roses budded give larger and better blooms than 
 when grown on their own roots, but so few appear to 
 recognize the necessity of cutting away the suckers which 
 at times come from the stock, that it is advisable to plant 
 only those grown on their own roots. If, however, the 
 plants camiot be had otherwise than budded, then always 
 plant so as to cover the point where the bud was inserted 
 at least two inches in the ground, and then, if you wish 
 to make the plant strike roots from itself, as soon as it is 
 well established take a knife and make a few slight notches 
 just at the point where it is budded, and from these 
 notches, or wounds, new roots will soon strike, and when 
 well grown the old root below can be cut away. 
 
 FORMS OF ROSES. 
 
 In almost every catalogue descriptive of 
 roses, as well as in the rose books, there 
 are certain terms used to indicate the forms 
 of flowers — terms which, though apparently 
 plain, yet are often seemingly misunder- 
 cupped. stood. We copy here sketches of the forms 
 of roses, with their appropriate terms. 
 
 Although the actual form of a flower varies with its 
 growth — some roses being globular when partly blown, 
 and cupped or expanded when fully developed — it should 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 "5 
 
 always be understood that this point should be decided 
 when the flower is at its best, or just before its " blase " 
 
 EXPANDED. 
 
 REFLEXED. 
 
 GLOBULAR. HALF CUPPED. 
 
 development by sun and air, and that its true contour can 
 be most distinctively ascertained from a profile view, the 
 flower being held level with the eye, because then dif- 
 ferences can be most distinctively perceived. 
 
 PLANTING ROSES. 
 
 Roses may be planted at any time in the growing season, 
 because nearly all commercial rose growers on a large 
 scale have them in pots from which they can be trans- 
 ferred to the ground at any time without risk. In trans- 
 ferring roses grown in the open ground, of course early 
 Spring or Fall must be the time ; but in our experience 
 some of the best rose beds — filled with blooms up to 
 Winter's frosts — that we ever saw, were turned into the 
 ground from the pots in June. 
 
Il6 ADDENDA 
 
 GOOD ROSES NAMED. 
 
 Among the many good roses, let us name the following, 
 although there are many more perhaps equally good ; in- 
 deed, we suppose the first reader will accuse us of leaving 
 out one with which he is acquainted and that he thinks 
 best of all ; but as we can 't print the whole list of many 
 hundreds, we must risk our list, knowing that all in it are 
 good. 
 
 Of Hybrid Perpetuah. — Mademoiselle Jennie Maux is 
 a new one of bright rose color, large and of fine form. 
 Beauty of Waltham is a bright rosy crimson, very large, 
 and a free bloomer. Chas. Rouillard is of a bright rose 
 color, large and full, and a free bloomer. Francis Arago 
 is of a rich, velvety maroon. General Washington is a 
 brilliant rosy carmine, almost scarlet, also a free bloomer. 
 George Prince is of a dazzling red, tinged with rose. 
 Mademoiselle Bertha Seveque is a pure white, with a 
 shade or tint of rose color late in Autumn. Maurice Ber- 
 nardine is a brilliant vermillion, blooming in clusters. 
 President Lincoln is a dark red, with a crimson shade. 
 Panache d 'Orleans is a white and rose color striped. 
 
 Of Bourbons. — Appoline is a light pink ; Blanche Lafitte 
 is flesh color; Decandole is purplish red ; Hermosa, rosy 
 blush ; Souvenir de Malmaison, clear, flesh color ; Louis 
 Margottin a satiny rose color. 
 
 In Teas and China and Bengal Roses one can hardly go 
 amiss, for all are good, and each one you buy and flower 
 will beget a desire for another. 
 
ADDENDA 
 
 117 
 
 LAYERING ROSES. 
 
 This is a very simple and easy way of propagating 
 hardy roses ; and the last of June is a good time to do it. 
 Select a good strong shoot that has just done flowering, 
 bend it over and see just where it will come when pegged 
 down, then excavate a little trench on the line four inches 
 deep; if the soil is clayey, scatter on the bottom of this 
 trench an inch of sandy loam, then bend down the branch, 
 fasten it with the pegtf in sketch ; then take a sharp knife 
 and cut a notch on the upper side, b, or make a long slit, 
 as you please ; but if you choose the latter, insert between 
 a bit of stick or a pebble stone ; then bend up the shoot, 
 as shown in sketch, and fill in with sandy soil, pressing it 
 firm with your hand, but avoid treading for fear you will 
 break the layer. 
 
 The dirt being filled in around it, trim off the half ripe 
 wood and leaves, leaving about four to five of the strongest 
 and about as many inches of wood above ground ; finally, 
 finish by scattering over and all around for a foot or more 
 a mulch of either new mown grass, straw, moss, etc., to 
 keep an even temperature and assist the root formation at 
 
n8 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 the point where you made the cut. The soil is warm, but 
 if you let the sun on strong, and a dry time comes, the 
 young roots that are naturally forced out of the plant will 
 decay . 
 
ADDENDA. 119 
 
 Herewith we show an illustration of how a rose can be 
 trained to make a perfect rounded mass of bloom. Two 
 to three inches of the main stem at the base have all the 
 buds nibbed out, and any suckers from the roots below 
 are destroyed. When the plant has made six inches of 
 growth pinch the ends of the upright shoots and throw 
 strength into the side branches. Continue this course as 
 the plant grows, and with many varieties the illustration 
 given will be overshadowed. 
 
 Ere we leave the roses let us say that where the Bour- 
 bons, Noisettes, Chinas, Teas, etc., are often winter killed 
 if left out in the open ground ; that if they are taken up 
 ere there is two inches deep of frost in the earth, and 
 heeled in to a common hot-bed frame, then covered with 
 small brush and over that a covering of leaves, then boards 
 put over so that water will not come in, they will find the 
 roots of the plants in spring as good as new. When plant- 
 ing out be careful to keep the roots from the air, and cut 
 the tops down to three or four inches from the crown of 
 the roots. All varieties are the better for being cut down 
 near the ground in early spring, then the leading shoots 
 pinched back from time to time and the faded flowers 
 picked off. Never refuse to give your friend a boquet of 
 roses if you do not cut the fresh opening buds. This re- 
 mark I acknowledge is a little out of my line, for I always 
 cut the faded roses and drop them on the ground, while 
 I put the buds and half blown ones into my friends hands. 
 Each year brings new varieties of roses, and while we 
 cannot give the whole list, we will here give a short list 
 of the latest and best new ones : 
 
120 ADDENDA. 
 
 May Turner — English Verdier. — A very hardy Hy- 
 bred Perpetual rose of 1875; the foliage light green; 
 flowers large, full and of good form, of a delicate salmon- 
 rose, with the under surface of the petals of a deeper 
 
 shade. 
 
 Reine des Massifs — Levet. — A vigorous new Noisette 
 rose of 1875. Flowers medium in size ; fine salmon-yel- 
 low, sometimes coppery, magnificent ; of a very free 
 blooming habit ; adapted for masses. 
 
 Bernard Verlot — Eng. Verdier. — A Hybrid Per- 
 petual rose of 1875 ; the flowers large, full and finely 
 formed, in the way of Lord Raglan, but more globular; 
 poppy reel, the center shaded with violet-purple; very 
 hardy and well spoken of. 
 
 Shirley Hikberd— Levct. — A new Tea Rose of 1875 
 and quite new in color, being a handsome nankeen yel- 
 low. The flowers of medium size, full, of a flattish cup 
 form, and very freely borne. 
 
 Antoine Mouton — Levet. — A Hybrid Perpetual Rose 
 of 1875 5 flowers very large and full, well formed, in the 
 way of Centifolia : beautiful bright pink color, reverse of 
 the petals silvery ; plant vigorous ; extra good. 
 
 Marie Guillot — Guillot Junior. — A new Tea Rose of 
 1875, vigorous in its habit of growth, clothed with hand- 
 some foliage of good substance. Superb, nearly white 
 flowers, just faintly tinged with a delicate shade of lemon. 
 
 Monsieur E. Y. Teas — Eng. Verdier. — This Hybrid 
 Perpetual Rose is a large rose, the color deep cerise red, 
 bright and striking; of globular shape, full and well 
 formed . 
 
ADDENDA. 121 
 
 Jean Ducher — Madame Ditcher. — \ very vigorous 
 growing new Tea Rose of 1875, with large, handsome 
 and healthy foliage. It has proved to be a very free 
 bloomer ; the flowers are large, full and globular, salmon- 
 yellow, the interior shaded with peach color. 
 
 Perle de Lyon. — A magnificent rose, and a rival to 
 the celebrated Marechal Niel. The flowers are large, of 
 firm texture, and of a richer, deeper yellow than M.Niel, 
 holding on well ; of exquisite shape and borne freely on 
 short shoots, as it is not of a running habit. 
 
 The following are new English varieties. All are Hybrid 
 Perpetuals, except Dutchess of Edinburgh : 
 
 Climbing Jules Margottin — Cranston. — A sprot from 
 Jules Margottin ; flowers exactly similar to its parent ; a 
 free and vigorous climber, branching freely. A great 
 acquisition as a free growing, perpetual climbing rose, of 
 handsome form and color, growing from eight to ten feet 
 in a season. 
 
 Crimson Bedder — Cranston. — As a crimson bedding 
 rose this variety is said to surpass every other rose for 
 brilliancy of color and perpetual blooming ; its habit of 
 growth is moderate and the shoots short jointed, pro- 
 ducing a mass- of flowers all over the bed from June till 
 November. Color, scarlet and crimson, very effective and 
 lasting; foliage, clean, glossy, and free from mildew. 
 
 John Stuart Mill — Turner. — A fine flower of superb 
 form ; of a bright, clear red color, very rich and distinct ; 
 large globular and very full. An excellent exhibition 
 
122 • ADDENDA. 
 
 flower and useful for garden decoration ; its constitution 
 is good and its habit of flowering free. 
 
 Miss Hassard — Turner. — In the way of Baronness 
 Rothschild and much better; the flowers are large, very- 
 double, of a beautiful flesh pink, with petals of splendid 
 substance and delightfully fragrant. It is a vigorous grower 
 and a very desirable acquisition . 
 
 Rev. J. B. M. Camm — Turner. — Very deep rose-pink 
 flowers, large and of a beautiful globular form and of 
 superb quality; very sweet and constant. 'In color, 
 form, and exquisite fragrance all that can be desired." 
 
 Royal Standard — Turner. — Flowers large, of a soft, 
 satiny-rose color, wonderfully full and exquisitely formed. 
 
 Star of Waltham — Wm. Paul. — Deep crimson, color 
 very rich and effective ; a magnificent flower of immense 
 size , very double . Foliage very large, without being coarse , 
 of a rich dark green color, forming a beautiful contrast 
 with the flowers. 
 
 Duchess of Edinburgh — Veitch. — "This new Tea 
 Rose will make the eyes of Rosarians sparkle with de- 
 light." Flowers, brilliant vermillion shaded with a rich 
 velvety maroon, very large indeed, and full in the highest 
 sense of the word. The foliage is handsome, of a rich 
 dark green color, and finely serrated. 
 
 ROSES IN POTS FOR HOUSE CULTURE. 
 
 Nearly all of the classes called Tea, or Bengal, are 
 adapted to the growing in pots, and kept in the ordinary 
 sitting room of the family. Duchess de Brabant, Bella, 
 
ADDENDA. 1 23 
 
 Bon Silene, Saffrano, and Isabella Sprunt rank among the 
 best for this purpose. To make . sure of having good 
 blooms in winter, the plants should have been grown in 
 pots during the summer previous, and not too much ex- 
 posed to the sun or the pots exposed, but either plunged 
 in the ground or wrapped with moss or grass and kept 
 cool. If during winter the green aphis gets upon the 
 plant, make some weak tobacco water, warm — not hot — 
 and dip the plants into them, immediately thereafter into 
 clean, soft, tepid water. 
 
 Hardy bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Lilies, 
 etc., make up great beauty in a homestead, and they may 
 be planted, and as they grow in spring, flowers of Verbenas, 
 Petunias, Sweet A ly sum, Aster, Balsam or Lady's Slipper, 
 Carnation, Pinks of varieties, Clarkia, Sweet Pear, Helio- 
 trope, Lantana, Lychnis, Crocus, Narcissus, Nasturtium, 
 Phlox Drummondi, Portulacca, Salvia Tube roses and 
 Zinnias may be worked in to make up the beds of floral 
 beauty around the house. 
 
 And now we will say to our readers that the formation 
 for beds for flowering summer plants, such as Geraniums, 
 Petunias, Salvias, Herbaceous Paeonias, equal in beauty 
 to Rhododendrons or Tree Paeonias, Phloxes, Chrysan- 
 theunms, Double Flowering Hollyhocks and Dahlias, 
 mingling with them many of the hardy perennials as the 
 Achillea, Aconitum, Aquilygea, Bocconia, Campanula of 
 many colors ; Iris of over seventeen varieties ; Liatris, 
 Sedums of more than twenty varieties and of great beauty 
 in a rough, rocky bed ; Spirea,s Statice, Tritoma, Veroni- 
 cas, Vincas and Yuccas, that from these plants, oval beds 
 
124 ADDENDA. 
 
 or diamond formed, or made from the shape of an oak or 
 maple leaf. Studying the subject quietly, and then in 
 preparing the bed make it four to six inches higher in the 
 center, and planting the strongest growing plants and 
 deepest colored flowers in the center, toning out to the 
 border with low growing light colored flowers. 
 
 Again we will suggest that we make groups of Hardy 
 Deciduous Flowering Shrubs. Suppose our border be 
 oblong in form along the foot-path, or breaking the form 
 of a carriage road, let us use varieties of Altheas for the 
 center, surround them with varieties of Wiegelas ; then 
 again a belt of tree or upright Honeysuckles, then with 
 Lilacs mingled with the shrubby Hydrangeas, then here 
 and there a purple Magnolia and two or three varieties of 
 the Japan Quince; now two or three of Syrengas, and 
 then bound the whole with Spireas, Calycanthus and 
 Deutzias. 
 
 So much for a group of Hardy Flowering Shrubs. Now 
 suppose we take a long oval bed of twenty by forty feet, 
 and count it a break from the front lawn, overlooked by 
 the windows and porches in front of the house. Suppose 
 we plant at each end of the oval a Juniperus, prost rata, 
 densata nana, repens, Squamata, Sabina a I pin a and Nipar- 
 tita : next back of them, or if you will, intermingled by one 
 who knows of their growth, Sabina Tamarisci folia, Sabina 
 variagata, CJiincnsis oblonga pendula, recuma, densa, Ree- 
 vesii Rigila, T/iurifera, Virginiana Pendula ; and next in 
 back of the foregoing to fill up the center, fore and back 
 ground — Abies Excelsa Inverta, A. Excelsa Mucronata, 
 A. Excelsa Pygmcea, A . canadensis , A. canadensis nana, 
 
ADDENDA. 125 
 
 A. canadensis microphylla, A. Pumila Nigra, Pinus stra- 
 bus niua, T/un'a occidentalis pendula, Thuja Hoveyi, Thuja 
 Siberica, Thuja conpacata, TJiuja Pygnuea, Pinus pumila, 
 Pinus Mug ho, Pinus Mug ho Rot un data, Pinus Con bra. 
 There is the grouping and rilling of the whole shade from 
 the Euyonymus or Strawberry Tree, or Burning Bush as 
 it is variously called. The Berberry, Cornus or Dog- 
 wood, Forsythia, High Bush Cranberry, Japan Quince, 
 in varieties, mingled indiscriminately at distances of two 
 to four feet apart in the bed, and yearly pruned back to 
 keep a true yet graceful form. 
 
 In cemeteries or burial grounds, this grouping of low 
 growing evergreens, shrubs, such as Deutzia Spirea, Weep- 
 ing Norway Spruce, and other low growing evergreen 
 shrubs, is far better than planting large growing trees 
 upon small lots. The large growing trees in a cemetery, 
 or a small* house ground, should mainly be planted on 
 the road lines'. 
 
INDEX 
 
 A. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Apple — Pruning, &c, '. 25 to 28 
 
 Varieties, 65 to 76 
 
 How to grow from seed, 9, 10 
 
 How to bud or graft, 14 to 22 
 
 with tables and list for latitudes, 66 to 76 
 
 Apples Crab, illustrated,. 74 
 
 Acclimation, etc, 96 
 
 Apricots, 83 
 
 B. 
 
 Budding — How to do it, 14 to 17 
 
 Blackberries, 59 to 61 
 
 Best Age for Transplanting., 11 
 
 Black Knot, 98 
 
 C. 
 
 Curculio, 96 to 98 
 
 Cuttings, 14, 21, 22, 30, 31, 33 
 
 Cherries, with table and descriptions, 82 to 87 
 
 Cherries illustrated, 88 
 
 G. 
 
 Grafting, 13 to 22 
 
 Grape Layering, 23 
 
 Grape Pruning, 30 to 34 
 
INDEX. 127 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Grape Planting, 35 to 37 
 
 Grapes— When and How to Prune, 37 to 40 
 
 Grape Trellis 43 to 45 
 
 H. 
 
 History and Value of Fruits, 5 
 
 How to Grow from Seed, 9 
 
 How to Prune the Grape, 38 to 45 
 
 I. 
 Insects, 96 
 
 L. 
 Latitudes, in every case refer to the apple, 
 
 N. 
 Nectarines 89 
 
 P. 
 
 Peach, with table list of varieties,. . .' 90 to 95 
 
 The table and list has been made with care and thought. 
 
 Pear, with table, history, origin, and value of varieties for 
 
 varied sections, 76 to 82 
 
 Pear illustrated, 80 
 
 Plum, with history, insects, and table of discription, 95 to 103 
 
 Quince, description of values, modes of growing, etc., . . l(fe to 106 
 
 R. 
 Raspberries, culture, descriptions, etc. , 52 to 59 
 
 S. 
 Strawberries, varieties, culture, etc. , 46 to 52 
 
128 INDEX ADDENDA. 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 This portion of the Index is distinct from that on Fruits. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Bulbs, tender 123 
 
 Dwarf evergreens, 124 to 125 
 
 Decoration of cemetery lots, 125 
 
 Home adornments, 107 to 112 
 
 Hardy Bulbs —varieties, 125 
 
 Herbaceous Paeonies, 123 
 
 How to prepare the ground and form a bed, 123 to 124 
 
 Hardy Flowering Shrubs, 124 
 
 The Rose 112 to 118 
 
 Training Roses, 113 
 
 Forms of Roses, 114 to 115 
 
 Planting Roses, 115 
 
 Good Roses named, 116 
 
 Hybrid Perpetuals, 116 
 
 Bourbons, 116 
 
 Teas and Chinas, 116 
 
 Layering Roses, 117 
 
 Careing for Roses in winter, 119 
 
 Rare new Roses 119 to 122 
 
 Roses in pots for house culture, 122