Class Lliis;. Book -^SA CopglrtN" COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. Laundry Work FOR USE IN HOMES AND SCHOOLS BY JUNIATA L SHEPPERD, M. A. INSTRUCTOR IN COOKERY AND LAUNDERING, IN THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. Printed by Webb Publishing Co. st. paul. minn. 1902 THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Copies Received MAY n 1903 Copyright Entry CLASS (Ky Me. No. COPY 8, Copyright 1902 BY Juniata L. Shepperd, ^ PREFACE. This book is designed to help those studying laundr>' work for home use, and to be used in school classes. Whatever it lacks in philosophy must be attributed large- ly to the fact that laundering is one of the last kinds of work to receive the benefits of scientific research. The effort has been made to present easy and effective ways of cleansing and ironing with a minimum of injury to the fabrics, and to give reasons for each step. The teach- er should not only be a master of the text, but should be proficient in performing the various operations. The text and the illustrations are arranged to assist the teacher in methods of class demonstrations as well as to direct the pupils in laboratory practice. The young housekeeper will find the book helpful in self instruction. She as well as the pupil must learn by practicing the exercises as directed, re-reading as often as necessary. It is hoped that the experienced housekeep- er and the launderer may here find some things of value to them. My able assistant, Miss Mary L. Bull, has given much aid in making the drawings, testing formulae, and revis- ing manuscript. The half tones are from photographs made by Mr. F- B. Headley. J. L. S. St. Anthony Park, Minn., Sept. 20, 1902. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. THE LAUNDRY ROOM. VA Situation . '. Fuel-room Fixtures Drying-Room Light and Ventilation Floor 2 Movable Furnishings (Bench, Slat-Floor, Tubs) 2 Size 3 Windows 3 Ironing-Table 3 Care of Irons 3 Soap. Quantity Desirable 3 Soap-Slicer 3 Laundry Class Room, Plan of — Illustration 4 Laundry Stove — Illustration 5 CHAPTER II. WATER. Importance as a Cleansing Agent 6 Soft Water 6 Sources — Rain Water — Snow Water 6 Impurities in Water Detrimental to its Value for Laundry Use 7 Iron 7 Organic and Inorganic Matter Causing Discoloration.... 7 Method of Clearing Water by Filtration 7 viii CONTENTS. PAGE, By Precipitation 7 Odor an Indication 8 Hard Water 8 Cause of Hardness 8 Purifying and Softening "Temporary" Hard Water 8 Purifier 8 "Boiler Scale" . 8 Quality Affected by Location 9 Softening "Permanent" Hard Water g With Soap 9 With Potash and Sal Soda » . : g EfTfect of Excess of Alkali and Means of Counteracting the Same 9 o With Lye from Wood Ashes With Washing Compounds With Borax With Ammonia Storing and Labelling Softening Agents, Rules for Use of Softening Agents Sal Soda (Sodium Carbonate) Powdered Lye Borax Ammonia Lye from Wood Ashes CHAPTER HL SOAP AND UTENSILS. Soap 12 As a Cleansing Agent 12 Its Action on Dirt 12 On Stains 12 Process of Soap Making 12 Nature of Process • 12 Alkalies Commonly Used, Sources of 12 Corresponding Classes of Soap 12 Fats Commonly Used, Sources of 13 Corresponding Kinds of Soap 13 CONTENTS. ix PAGE. Grades of Soap Determined by Relative Proportions of Alkali and Fat 13 Use of Each 13 Former Methods of Making Soft Soap 14 Soft Soap — Cold Process 14 Hard Soap 15 Adulterants 16 Economy in Use of 16 Utensils 16 Washing Machines 16 Development of 16 Choice of 17 One Method of Chemical Washing 17 Washboards 17 Kinds 17 Care of 18 Wash Boilers 18 Material 18 Care of 18 Stationary Tubs — Illustration 18 Tubs 18 Mangles 19 Description . ig Use and Care of 19 Wringers 19 Movable versus Stationary 19 Requisites Desirable 19 Care of 20 Wringing by Hand 20 Clothes Lines and Pins. ._. 20 Comparative Merits of Galvanized Iron and Rope Lines 20 Care of Lines — Of Pins 20 Clothes-Pin Apron 20 Choice of Pins 21 CHAPTER IV. CLEANSING AND IRONING CLOTHES. Objects of Washing 22 Healthfulness 22 Removal of Dirt, Summary of Process 22 X CONTENTS. PAGE. Appearance of Clothes . 22 Summary of Processes Insuring Best Results 22 Bluing 22 Object 22 Method • 22 Rinsing 22 Thoroughness 22 Object 22 Flannels, Summary of Process of Washing and Drying. . 22 Injury to Fabrics, Precautions Necessary; Illustrated by Method of Wringing a Petticoat 23 The Cleansing Process • • 23 Methods 23 Agents 23 Water, its Temperature 23 Soaps 23 Borax or Ammonia 23 Process 23 Washing by Chemical and Mechanical Means 23 Boiling 24 Initial and Final Temperature 24 Preparation of Clothes for . 24 Proper Manipulations During and After Boiling — Rea- sons 25 Use of Kerosene • • 25 Reasons in Favor of Boiling 25 Rinsing 25 Bluing 25 Drying 25 Preparation for Washing 26 Sundry Preliminaries 26 Preparation of Hard Water 26 Collecting, Assorting and Mending Clothes 26 Removal of Stains . 26 Treatment of Flannels 26 Of Colored Clothes .26 Of Starched Clothes 26 Of Handkerchiefs, Much Soiled 27 Preparation of Soap 27 Putting Clothes to Soak .27 CONTENTS. xi PAGE. Washing Flannels First 27 Washing Day 27 How to Begin 27 To Launder Flannels 28 Preparation of Suds 28 Washing, Wringing, Shaking and Drying Flannels 28 Method for Colored Flannels . 28 Use of Ammonia or Borax 28 Pressing Flannels 29 Best Way for Washing Flannels when Hard Water Must be Used 29 To Launder Knitted Wear 29 Hosiery 29 Blankets 30 Reasons for Using Tepid Water for Woolens . 30 Preparation of Suds $0 Use of Borax 31 To Launder Embroidered Flannels 31 Tilings to Remember in Washing Flannels 31 Theory for Shrinkage of Flannels 31 To Launder Silk Underwear 31 Prints 32 Setting Colors 32 Process of Washing and Starching 32 To Remove Streaks in Black and White Gingham 32 White Clothes ;^2 To Remove Stains from Table Linen ;^;^ To Wash Table Linens 34 Colored Table Linens 35 Doilies 35 Dish Cloths and Tea Towels 35 To Remove Stains . 36 Old Fruit Stains 36 Dry Paint Stains 27 Grass Stains ^^y Grass Stains on Unwashable Goods 38 Fresh Paint ;^y Fresh Paint from Unwashable Goods 37 Fresh Tar ^y Wine Stains 38 xii CONTENTS. PAGE. Purple Ink 38 Iron Rust 38 Vaseline Stain 39 Mildew 39 Peach Stains 39 Black Ink 40 Wax Spots 40 Paint on Flour Sacks 40 Dry Paint From Window Glass 40 Perspiration Stains 40 Stains on Colored Goods 40 Blood Stains 41 Axle Grease, Machine Oil, etc 41 Stains From Infants' Clothes 41 Javelle Water 41 To Make 41 To Remove Stains with 41 Paraffine Washing 41 General Directions 41 Bleaching Fabrics 42 On Grass in Sunshine 42 With Buttermilk 42 By Freezing 42 With Artificial Bleaching Powders 43 With Turpentine 43 With Borax 43 Reasons for Clothes Becoming Yellow 44 Bluings 44 Varieties, their Characteristics 44 Preparation of Bluing Water 44 Precautions Necessary in the Use of 45 Starch 45 Occurrence 45 Variation in Granules from Dififerent Plants 45 Tests for Different Kinds 46 Manufacture of 46 From Potato 46 From Corn and Wheat 46 From Rice 47 Use of — In Laundry 47 CONTENTS. xiii PAGE. In Textile Work 47 Merits and Use of Different Kinds 47 Starching 48 General Directions for Making Starch 48 To Test the Strength of Different Starches 49 Bran Water for Cleansing and Stiffening Colored Fabrics. 49 Preparation of 49 Method of Using 49 To Starch Plain Black Prints 49 Materials Used in Starch. 50 Tinted Starches 50 Cold Starch 50 Starch for Stiff Starching 51 Starching Prints 52 Starch for 52 To Starch Prints 52 Starch for Curtains, Fine Muslins, etc. ("Clear Starch- ing") 52 To Starch a Petticoat or Underwear of any Kind 53 Thin Muslins 54 To Make Rice Starch 54 Potato Starch 54 To Starch a Shirt 54 Dampening and Folding Clothes 54 Preparations for 54 To Dampen and Fold a Tablecloth 55 A Sheet 55 Underwear 55 Articles of Single Width 55 Sundry Directions 56 To Dampen a Shirt 57 Another Way 57 To Dampen Collars and Cuffs 58 Shirt Waist 58 Ironing Board — Illustration 59 General Directions for Ironing 59 Irons, their Condition and Use 59 Method of Ironing Different Materials and D'.fferent Parts 59 Removing Creases 60 xiv CONTENTS. PAGE. Scorched Places 60 Ironing Dress Skirts 60 Folding Ironed Clothes 61 Table Linens 61 To Fold — Illustration 61 To Iron Tablecloth 61 Ironing 61 Folding 62 Rolling 62 To make Paper Roller. 63 To Use Roller 63 To Iron Napkins 63 Fringed Napkins 63 Embroidered Linens, as Doilies, etc 64 To Starch and Iron a Petticoat 65 To Iron Tucks 65 Ruffles ..66 To Iron Corset Cover 66 Pair of Drawers 67 Union Suit 67 Nightdress 68 Chemise 68 Bed Spread 68 Toilet Towels 69 Sheets 69 To Fold Sheets and Pillow Cases — Illustration 69 To Iron Pillow Cases 69 Pillow Shams 70 Pocket Handkerchiefs 70 Things Done in Cold Starch 71 Lined Waist 72 Shirt 72 Polishing Linens 73 Domestic or Dull Finish 74 To Fold a Chemise 74 Side Fold — Illustration 74 Directions 74 Front Fold — Illustration 75 To Fold Drawers 76 Illustration 76 CONTENTS. XV PAGE. Directions 76 To Fold a Union Suit ^7 Illustration 77 Directions 77 To Fold a Corset Cover 78 Side Fold — Illustration 78 Directions 78 Front Fold — Illustration 78 To Fold a Nightdress 79 Side Fold — Illustration 79 Directions 79 Front Fold — Illustration 80 To Fold a Shirt Waist 81 Illustration 81 Directions r 81 To Fold a Shirt 82 Illustration 82 Directions 82 The Ironing Table 82 Height 82 Covering 82 Skirt Board 83 Bosom Boards 83 Irons — Use and Merits of Different Kinds 84 Flat or Sad Irons 84 Patent Irons 84 Box Irons 84 Gas Irons 85 Polishing Irons 85 Tailor's Goose 85 Goffering Irons 85 Fluting Irons 85 Heating and Using Irons 85 Care of Irons 86 Iron Holders 87 Iron Stands 87 Fluting, Crimping and Goffering 87 Laundering Miscellaneous Articles 88 Babies' Clothes 88 Robes, Robe Skirts, Dresses, etc 88 xvi CONTENTS. • / , '^ PAGE Rubber Goods Used in Nursery .•.'.•»....• 88 Boys' Sailor Suits "/. 89 Duck Dress Skirts 89 White Silk 90 Colored Silks 90 Raw Silk 91 Men's White Ties 91 Laces gi Thin, Fine Muslins 93 Fine Handkerchiefs 93 Lace Curtains 94 Curtain Stretchers 95 Illustration 95 Description of Ready Made 95 Home Made, Two Styles 05 Sash Curtains 96 Embroideries 96 Sun Bonnets 96 Sun Hats 97 Chintz 97 Chififon 98 Flannelettes .98 Smocking 98 Chamois Leather 98 Cleaning Miscellaneous Articles 98 Dress Goods 98 Black Dress Goods 98 To Prepare Potato Water for 99 Crepe 99 Black Silk 99 Black Lace 99 Setting and Brightening Colors 99 To Set Delicate Colors 100 To Set Blacks, Pinks, etc, 100 To Brighten Blues 100 To Set Weak Colors 100 Sponging and Pressing Cloth 100 Chemicals and Materials Used in Cleaning Clothes. . . .101 Precaution in Use of Cleaning Fluid , loi Brush for Cleaning Clothes loi CONTENTS. xvii PAGE. Cleaning Fluid loi Directions for Making loi For Application loi To Clean Carpets With Sea Foam loi Directions for Preparation loi For Application 102 To Clean with Flour or Meal 102 Magnesia, etc 102 Ox Gall 102 Fuller's Earth, French Chalk, etc 102 To Remove Grease Spots with Benzine 103 To Clean with Gasoline . . , 103 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. CHAPTER I. THE LAUNDRY ROOM. The room designed especially for laundry work should be separated from the remainder of the house by at least a tight board partition, with closely fitting door. It is far better to have this room entirely separated from the remainder of the house, because the laundry must be thoroughly ventilated to prevent the heat and unpleasant odors, dampness from steam, etc., affecting the laundress deleteriously. If the fuel room is between the laundry and the kitchen (when both are on the same floor), there can be sufficient means of ventilation without allowing the Iron Heated by Charcoal. heat and the odors from the soapsuds, etc., to enter the kitchen, and, through it, other portions of the house. It is sometimes convenient to have the laundry room in the basement. Wherever it is, have it furnished with clear, soft water, both cold and hot, if you can do so, and with stationary tubs and boiler. In that case, there would be steam heat, so have a small room partitioned off at one end, with pipes laid under a slat floor, and lines put up at a convenient distance overhead, to facilitate drying the Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. clothes in severe winter weather. There should also, etc., be means of carrying the dirty water away after wash- ing. All this requires much expenditure of money, and, if these things cannot be had, a good cistern is an al^solute necessity to the best work in the laundry. A cistern filled with clean rain water makes it very' much easier to have the laundry work well done. Soft water requires less soap, and injures both fabric and colors less, than hard water, because no softening agents are needed, and a smaller amount of soap and friction are necessary to remove the dirt from the clothes. The laundry room should be light and well ventilated, as one needs a good supply of both light and air while washing and ironing. The floor in the laundry room should be of cement, as this makes a durable floor, and one which is impervious to water. Hardwood and tile both make good laundry floors, but are more expensive than cement. Soft wood painted is very satisfactory, but needs repainting often, and slivers and becomes rough in time. Iron Heated by Gas. There should be a movable bench, of convenient height for the tubs, set near a window. There should also be a section of movable slat floor for the worker to stand on. A piece of old carpet thrown over this, in winter, aids much in keeping the feet warm. There should be at least one galvanized iron tub and one wooden one. Galvanized The Laundry. 3 iron tubs are light to handle and easily kept in order, but a wringer cannot be successfully used with one unless the tub is fitted with pieces of wood for this purpose. A wooden tub dries out readily if kept in a warm, dry at- mosphere, and is heavy to lift about, but for some parts of the work is more desirable than the other. All tubs should be clamped to the bench when in use. The laun- dry room should be large enough to admit the laundry stove, ironing table, clothes horse, etc., as well as the ma- chinery and utensils needed in washing. There should be sufficient floor space to allow washing machine, wash bench, etc., to stand in their places, even when not in use, as much lifting and carrying of heavy articles tires the worker very much. There should be many windows which move readily at top and bottom, that there may be free circulation of air during wash day, and that the ironed clothes may be readily dried preparatory to lay- ing away. A skylight is desirable, as it aids in ridding the room of unpleasant odors, and renders the room far more comfortable on a warm day. The ironing table should be furnished with a drawer, in which iron stands, iron holders, wax, etc., may be kept. , When through using hot irons, they should be set on end on a metal shelf behind the laundry stove until cold ; they should then be put away in a dry place to prevent rusting. Soap should be bought by the box or keg, both be- cause it is cheaper bought in quantity, and because it does not deteriorate by lying, and is more convenient. It is an easy matter to make laundry soap which will dp good work on some clothes. An alkali soldnn one poimd cans and known as concentrated lye, lye powders, etc., is used for this purpose. Such soap is tiot good for use in wash- ing wools or prints. A soap sheer, which can be had for a few cents, is a great convenience where bar soap is used in the laundry. A and B— Stationery Tubs. C and D— Boilers E— Tables. F— Closet for Irons, Etc. G— Gas Jets or otber means of heating Irons H— Locker for Students' Aprons, Etc. I— Drying Room Laundry Stove. CHAPTER II. WATER. Water is one of the most important materials used in laundry work'. By the use of plenty of soft water, soap, and heat, washing can be made largely a chemical process. The water, carrying the dissolved soap, bathes every por- tion of the fabric. The soap in the water, and the oils and other in)purities which have entered the clothing from the porfes of the skin and from external sources, act upon each other, and form new compounds, thus free- ing the dust particles, which settle in the liquid, after the clothes are removed. Both hard and soft water are used in laundry work, but the cleansing process is shorter when soft water is used, and both colors and fabric are affected less, because not so much soap and friction are needed and no chemicals are required to aid in removing the dirt from the clothes. The fact that water is capable of dissolving so many different substances renders it impos- sible to find perfectly pure water in nature. Rain water and snow water are the two main sources of soft water, though the water of rivers, lakes, and wells may be comparatively soft. Rain water is usually dis- colored some by the smoke and dust with which it comes in contact while falling, even in the country, but in the latter part of a shower it is generally quite clear enough for good results in laundry work, if the clothes are well rinsed in perfectly clear water, and dried in clean air and bright sunshine. Snow water, in the country is excep- tionally clear and soft, but melting the snow requires much extra labor. With soft water, good soap, and clean country air and sunshine for drying, it is an easy matter Water, 7 to keep white clothes white, wools soft, and prints like new. Though it is very important that water be soft, this is not the only characteristic necessary to good work. Water must be free from iron, as rust spots are apt to appear on clothes washed in water containing a very small amount of iron, especially if the soap is not thoroughly rinsed out of the fabric. Water must be free from discol- oration, whether caused by decaying vegetable matter, by clayey soil, or whatever its source, as any discolora- tion in water will prevent the clothes being white. When it is necessary to use muddy water, it must be cleared by some process. The two methods of clearing water generally used are "by precipitation" and *'by filtration," To clear muddy water by the first process, dissolve two tea- spoonfuls each of alum and borax in a little hot water, and add to each gallon of water to be used; stir and allow to settle, then carefully pour the clear water off. It is best to use no more alum than is really necessary, because the presence of alum renders the water unpleas- ant to use and hardens it. When water is cleared by fil- tration, the question of a satisfactory filter becomes an important one. A filter is easily constructed, and a bed of sand often plays an important part in its make up. A sand filter is very satisfactory for a time, but the impuj;- ities in the water render it necessary to. reconstruct the filter frequently, or wash it very thoroughly with clear water. A foul filter is. very unsanitary, and it is for this reason absolutely necessary that filters be kept clean. Small filters which are used in the homes are. often un- satisfactory. In cities, filtered water can usually be bought at a reasonable price, and in the co.untry, rain water can generally be obtained, if the well water is unfit for laun- dry work. Water for laundry work must be odorless when hot, 8 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. as well as when cold. A disagreeable odor is sometimes caused by sewage as well as other impurities. Water may be clear as crystal, and yet be unfit for laundry work unless some special treatment is given it. Water often contains various kinds of mineral matter, but the car- bonates and sulphates of lime are the ones of greatest importance in laundry work, provided the water is free from iron. Water which contains calcium or magnesium carbonate is called "temporary" hard water, because tht hardness can be removed by long boiling. Boiling drives off the carbon dioxide gas, and the calcium or magnesium carbonate is precipitated. When large quantities of such water must be used, as in generating steam, etc., a puri- fier is often attached to the boiler. The water can thus be heated and the impurities be precipitated before it reaches the boiler. This saves time, labor, and fuel. It prevents, to a large extent, the accumulation of "boiler scale," which prevents the water heating readily and facili- tates explosions. Steam laundries can prepare water for laundry work by the use of such a purifier, or they may use other methods, as the hardness is due to various causes and cannot always be removed in the same way. When the hardness is due to the presence of lime alone, water may be softened by the addition of lime. The add- ed lime unites with the carbon dioxide in the water and frees the carbonate, and both the previously dissolved car- bonate and the added lime are precipitated, as the lime forms, with the carbon dioxide, an insoluble compound. If too much lime is added, some of it will remain in the water and prevent it being soft, as it should be. In cities water is often softened in large quantities, and sold to customers for home laundry work. The water of springs, wells, lakes, and rivers may be either "permanent" or "temporary" hard water, or the Water. 9 water of springs and wells may be soft, though it is apt to be more or less hard. The quality of the water de- pends largely on the formation in which it is located. A spring or well situated in a sandstone region or in other rocky formation which is insoluble in water, generally has soft water, but one situated in a limestone region al- ways has hard water. A shallow well is more apt to af- ford soft water than a deep one, and a river has clearer and softer water near its source, when it has a rocky bottom and runs over uncultivated, uninhabited lands cov- ered with vegetation, than where it has a muddy bottom, and receives its tributaries from cultivated soils in inhab- ited districts^. Permanent hard water cannot be rendered soft by boil- ing, and must be treated with some chemical, or have much soap used with it to render it fit for use in washing clothes. When soap is added to hard water, it forms with the minerals present a new compound, which floats about in the water. This is known as lime curd. It clings to things immersed in the water like a greasy scum. Soap enough must be added to hard water to neutralize these minerals, before it can act as a detergent. In order to save expense, some chemical is often used to soften the water somewhat before adding soap. The materials used for this purpose are caustic potash, bought in small cans, and sal soda (crystalized sodium carbonate), lye from hardwood ashes, borax, ammonia, and various wash- ing fluids and washing powders. Both potash and sal soda are corrosive in their nature, and must be used with care. If not thoroughly dissolved before adding to the water in the boiler, particles are liable to escape the solv- ent action of the water, and stick on the clothes, and form brown spots, which soon become holes. Both soda and potash, when used in excess, will attack the fiber of the 10 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. cloth as soon as the oily substances found in the clothes are all removed. In some cases the free alkali unites with the fatty acids found in clothes which have received exuda- tions from the skin, and forms black specks due to an in- soluble soap which the union makes. This Can only be removed by boil i tig the clothes again in clean suds. A very little turpentine in the suds aids in removing "the specks. The water must be boiled and strained after cleansing, to avoid other black specks, due to lime Curd, which sometimes cling very tenaciously to the clothes. Ly6 from wood ashes owes its soap-making properties to the potash it contains; hence its action on the clothes is the same as that of the potash in cans, if used in ex- cess. But in lye from wood ashes, the potash is already in '"solution, and, as such lye is usually rather weak, there is; little danger of clothes being injured by using it in laundry work. An excess of any one of these softenirlg agents tends to yellow the clothes. Washing compounds, whether powders or liquids, usually have sal soda as their basis, and often contain little or nothing else of a deter- gent nature. They cost more than common washing soda ; hence it is wiser to use the cheaper sal soda or washing soda, as its strength is known and it can thus be more in- telligently used. Borax, a compound of soda with boric acid, is excellent for softening water, but is too expensive for general use in washing. Borax is used in preparing water for washing silks, wools, and prints, and is less injurious to some colors than ammonia, although ammonia is used for the same purpose in the laundry as borax. It is better to buy ammonia of a druggist than to use house- hold ammonia, if one can get a good article. Ammonia should be strong enough to admit of diluting one-half and still have sufficient strength for use in laundry work. It is better to dilute concentrated ammonia, and cork tight Softening Water. IT before setting away, because, if strong, it evaporates very rapidly whenever the bottle is opened. Sal soda, potash, borax, etc., should always be kept closely covered, as they deteriorate rapidly when exposed to the air. All such things must be labeled and kept out of the reach of chil- dren, as they cause serious and sometimes fatal results when carelessly or ignorantly handled. Waters vary so much in degree of hardness that it is difficult to give exact rules for the use of softening agents, but the following are right for moderately hard water : To Soften Water with Sal Soda (Sodium Carbonate). Use one level tablespoonful of sal soda or washing soda to each gallon of water. Dissolve the soda in hot water in a bowl or graniteware basin before putting into the water in the boiler. Let the water boil, and skim and strain before using. To Soften Water with Powdered Lye. Use one-half a tablespoonful of lye to four quarts of water, and proceed as with sal soda. To Soften Water with Borax. Use one tablespoonful of borax to each gallon of water, then proceed as with sal soda. To Soften Water with Ammonia. Put in sufficient ammonia to overcome the minerals, but do not have the water hot, because the ammonia will evap- porate more rapidly and some of its power be lost. To Soften Water with Lye from Wood Ashes. To each quart of sifted wood ashes (use hardwood) add one quart of water, and boil a few minutes, adding more water, if too dry. Remove from the fire, add three quarts of cold water, let settle, and strain. Use enough to make the water suds, and cleanse the same as with sal soda. CHAPTER III. SOAP AND UTENSILS. Soap is very valuable as a cleaning agent. What we desire in laundry work is a detergent which will do the cleansing work with as little injury as possible to the fabric. Soap, when dissolved in water, readily enters all the little spaces between the threads of the fabric, and by its action on the oily substances which hold the dust particles sets free all dirt which is thus held. The action of soap on stains is detrimental. It forms with them a compound which it is very difficult, if not impossible, to remove. Soap is made by treating a fat or oil with a strong alkaline base, as potash or soda. The process is a chemical one, and may be performed with the ingredi- ents either cold or hot, though the action is more rapid when heat is present. The alkalies commonly used in making soap are potash and soda. Laundry soaps might be roughly divided into two classes — hard soaps and soft soaps. Soaps in which potash is used are usually soft; those in which soda forms the alkaline base are generally hard. Previous to the French Revolution, in 1789, pot- ash was the chief alkali used in soap making. About that time, Leblanc discovered a method of producing soda from common salt. Previous to this time, soda had been procured from the ashes of marine plants, and was more expensive than potash or pearlash, which was made from wood ashes. There are two reasons why soda, in time, be- came very much cheaper than potash. Immense amounts are produced annually from common salt, with small ex- pense. There is a great demand for bleaching agents, and soda is a by-product of their manufacture. Wood Soap. 13 is much less used for fuel than before the discovery of coal, and our forests have been largely removed, though parts of the United States and Canada still make potash an article of commerce. Fats generally used in the manu- facture of soap are obtained from animals commonly used for food, or from plants. The common vegetable oils are cottonseed oil, palm oil, olive oil, cocoanut oil. Olive oil, with a certain per cent of rape oil, is used in making Castile soap. Olive oil alone makes a soap which is very brittle. There are many imitations of Castile soap, but the genuine article is mottled more like marble, as the ingredi- ents mix in a different way than those used in the imitation products. Cocoanut oil soap is sometimes called "marine" soap, because, not being easily decomposed by weak sa- line substances, it can be used with salt water. In mak- ing laundry soaps, the regularly rendered fats are used for making hard soap, leaving the poorer fats for use in the manufacture of soft soap. Cottonseed oil is used quite extensively for soap making in some parts of our coun- try. Whether a soap should be strong or mild depends on the use to which it is to be put. For washing silks, wools, and prints, a neutral soap — that is, one in which the alkali and fat are combined in such proportions that no free alkali or free acid is present in the finished pro- duct — is best. As a matter of fact, a perfectly neutral soap is seldom to be had, but the so-called neutral soaps are less harmful to delicate colored fabrics, wool goods, etc., than laundry soap. For most laundry work a strong soap is best. Laun- dry soap should be light colored, though not necessarily white. Very dark soaps should be avoided, because so often adulterated. Soft soap is often too strong for gen- eral laundry work, as it is severe on both hands and clothes immersed in a suds made with it. Soft soap is 14 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. useful in washing coarse, greasy articles of clothing, and for cleaning unpainted floors, etc. In early days each housewife endeavored to manufacture a sufficient quantity of soap for the use of her household. The soap thus made was not always satisfactory, because the worker had no way of determining the exact strength of the lye, and it was not always possible to add just the amount of grease needed. There were two methods of making soap, — one known as "boiled" soap ; the other, as "cold process" soap. In making soap by either method, lye was obtained from carefully stored wood ashes, and its strength determined by the best means at hand, which usually were very un- reliable. In making soap by the first method, the grease was weighed and boiled in a lye, not too strong, un- til the two were incorporated, and the soap kettle con- tained a turbid mixture, which fell from the stirrer in strings. Strong lye was then added, a little at a time, until the mixture became more nearly transparent. A small portion was then taken from the kettle, where it boiled rapidly, and stirred into a basin of warm water. If it lathered readily and the suds had a blue cast, it was adjudged good soap; but if the suds was yellow, more lye was added to counteract the fat, which was still in excess. Some judged the quality of the soap by the ap- pearance of a small portion of the mixture dropped on a cold surface. A gray ring around the outside of the sample indicated too much grease. A thin, slimy appear- once also indicated that fat was in excess. A gray cover- ing over the entire surface indicated an excess of lye. A granular or separated appearance indicated the same. Soft Soap — Cold Process. In very early days, potash instead of soda was gen- erally sold and used for soap making because cheaper than soda. Soap was made without boiling, by a method Soap, 15 similar to the following: Six pounds of fat, four and one-half pounds of potash, and six gallons of water were prepared. The fat was put. into the soap kettle, and the potash dissolved in. one . and , one-half gallons of boiling water, which was poured over it, and the two stirred well together. The kettle was then covered, and allowed to stand until the next day, when another gallon and a half of boiling water was added,, and the. contents stirred. A portion of water was added, boiling hot, each day, until all was used. Saponification began very soon, but sev- eral weeks were sometimes necessary fpr its completion. The mixture was stirred frequently, and the finished pro- duct was a jelly-like soft soap. Hard Soap. The refuse fat from the kitchen, such as drippings, frying fat, etc., may be made into a very good quality of hard soap by properly combining with the alkali sold in tin cans and known as "powdered lye." Such soap will be rather dark if the fats are burned or otherwise dis- colored. To make hard soap, dissolve the contents of a pound can of powdered lye in two and a half pints of cold water. Put the water in an iron or earthenware vessel, and carefully put the lye into it. The lye will affect both hands and eyes, unless one is very careful in adding it to the water. The chemical action which takes place makes the liquid hot when the lye is dissolved, and the liquid must be allowed to cool to summer heat. Weigh six and one-half pounds of grease, and melt it, but do not heat it further than that. When the lye is cool, pour it slowly on the grease, stirring, and continue to stir after the lye is all in, until the two mix, and the liquid as- sumes the consistency of honey; then pour out to cool in shallow pans. Too long stirring may cause the ingredi- ents to separate. 16 Laundry Work, for Homes and Schools. The adulterants used in soap are numerous. Resin is one often met with in laundry soap. It can be so com- bined with the alkali that the soap will lather well, and the clothes washed with it be white, but it will not do the work of a true soap, and one often pays more than a poor soap is worth, even at a low price. Silicate of soda some- times enters very largely into the composition of soap. Potato starch, Glauber's salt, and soda crystals are some of the fillers used in soap. Soft soap is more easily adul- terated than bar soap, as it is less perfectly purified, and in its normal state contains an excess of acids, some gly- cerine, etc., and the amateur sees less difference in the appearance of different samples of soft soap than in the various grades of bar soap. Whether soft soap or hard soap is used in laundry work, care should be exercised to avoid waste. Always rinse the jar in which soap jelly or soft soap has been kept, when empty. Use a white cloth for the washing, and pour the suds into the boiler or washer. There will not be enough dirt to affect the suds materially, even if it is to be used for boiling clothes, if the jar has been kept covered to prevent dust entering. Save all bits of bar and toilet soap, and shave into the boiler when mak- ing a suds, or use in making soap jelly. WASHING MACHINES. Machinery for w^ashing has long been found in the market. Some machines are very simple; others much more complicated. Some depend largely on mechanical means for removing the dirt ; others resort to heat, with water and chemicals so combined and used as to free the dirt and carry it away. The washboard probably took the place of a rough stone as an aid in washing. It is a step higher, as it can be easily moved from place to Machinery and Utensils. 17 place, and wears the clothes less, though wooden wash- boards are crude instruments. The wooden pestle and the funnel of tin, which were used for washing clothes, probably took the place of kneading and punching with the hands and tramping with the feet. Aii these simple devices, except the washboard, have passed away, and human ingenuity and skill have given us many washers, very perfect in design and workmanship. Which one best suits her needs, each woman must decide, but the one which runs the easiest, has little machinery to get out of fix, and cleans the clothes with the least injury to the fabric is best. Some machines are so made that the cleansing is done by moving the clothes about inside the washer at the same time that they are punched and squeezed by means of a wheel or lever in the hands of the manipulator. Others are so made that the clothes are 'rubbed on a board in a way similar to that .done by hand. The principal precaution necessary is to avoid catching the clothes and tearing them. Some machines cleanse by forcing boiling, soapy water against th^onost soiled portions of the clothes, thus washing away the dirt particles as they are loosened, and allowing the water to act still further on the soiled parts. This is one method of chemical washing. Another method may be found under the head of paraftine washing. WASHBOARDS. Washboards are in different patterns, and made of dif- ferent materials. A wooden washboard probably injures the clothes as little as any kind, but is rather unpleasant to use, unless one is accustomed to it. Wooden wash- boards may split in time, if not well cared for. In select- ing a glass or metal-covered board, choose one that is not too much corrugated, because the many angles wear the Laundry Work for Homes and Schools, clothes as they glide over them. When the washing is finished, the washboard should be washed, wiped dry, and put away in a clean, dry place. ! WASH BOILERS. Such vessels are usually made of iron, copper, or tin. A copper vessel is best for use, but very expensive. Iron is inexpensive, but heavy and hard to keep in good con- dition, because iron rusts readily. A tin boiler with a copper bottom is probably most desirable, all things con- sidered. When through with the boiler for the day, wash it inside and out, wipe entirely dry, and set in a dry, clean place upside down. Stationaty Tubs. TUBS, ETC. Tubs are usually made of wood or of galvanized iron. A wooden tub is rather heavy, and requires special care Soap. 19 in dry weather to prevent falling down, but holds the wringer well, and is easily kept clean. A galvanized iron tub is light and not difficult to clean, but does not hold the wringer unless fitted with wooden cleats and clamped to the wash bench. MANGLES. A hand mangle is sometimes used in a house which has a large amount of fiat work, such as sheets, pillow cases, napkins, etc. In this, a padded roller takes the place of the ironing table, and a highly polished metal roller plays the part of the iron. The polished roller is heated, and the rollers screwed down together in a manner similar to that used in wTingers. The clothes must be folded smoothly, the roller have the right heat, and the clothes be started in straight, and not pulled out of shape. The mangle should be screwed tight enough to give good pressure, but not tight enough to strain the machine. Pieces of cloth should be attached to the mangle, that the clothes may pass in and out without being soiled. Like the wringer, the mangle must be kept perfectly clean and dry. It must be kept oiled, and the screws loosened when the mangle is not in use. The mangle should be kept covered when not in use, and the protecting strips of cloth called aprons, removed and washed when dirty. WRINGERS. The clothes are less liable to be torn when a wringing machine is used than when wrung by hand. A movable wringer is preferable to one attached permanently to a washer, because it can be taken from washtub to rinsing tub as needed. The rubber-covered rollers should be well made, and long enough to admit a bed blanket when doubled to one-fourth its original width. The wringer should be strong and well made, and capable of such ad- 20 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. justment as to enable one to wring either large or small articles successfully. Never pass hot clothes through the wringer, as intense heat injures the rubber rollers. Ev- ery part of the wringer must be perfectly clean. When through using it each time, the rollers -should be wiped with a dry cloth, or, if much soiled, they should be rubbed with a cloth wet in turpentine or kerosene, washed with soapsuds, rinsed, and wiped dry. The screws should be loosened when the wringer is no longer needed in the work on wash day. In wringing by hand, great care is necessary to avoid overstraining the fibers of the cloth. To wring by hand, fold the article so that it will be as straight and even as is possible. Take the top in the. one hand, and with the other hand twist steadily and care- fully until the cloth is moderately dry. Small articles should be simply squeezed. CLOTHES LINES AND PINS. Clothes lines are of different kinds, and may be either movable or stationary. The stationary lines are usually of galvanized wire. They are convenient because always up, but require cleaning each time they are used if smoke or dust can reach them. They are more expensive than rope lines. A rope line must be taken down each time after using, and kept away from dust, etc. It must not be allowed to get wet. The line must be within reach of the one doing the work, and the clothes must be kept off the ground; for this reason, a pole to raise the line in the center is necessary. This and the clothes pins must be kept under cover, and washed occasionally. It is wise to have a clothes-pin apron of some strong material, and wear it when the clothes are hung on the line, and Machinery and Utensils. 21 when they are brought in. In that case the pins will al- ways be in the apron when not in use. There are several patterns of clothes pins, but the plain, simple ones are usually most satisfactory, as they are in- expensive, and easily washed when dirty, and do their work very well. CHAPTER IV. >/. CLEANSING AND IRONING CLOTHES. OBJECTS OF WASHING 1. Healthfui^ness. , 2. Appeabance of Clothes. In order to get good results from our work, we must not lose sight of the three following points: First, the dirt must be all removed ; second, the white clothes must be kept white; third, all colored articles must be kept looking bright and new, and the flannels must remain soft and unshrunken. No fabric must be injured. The dirt is removed most thorougnly and easily by using plenty of clear, soft water and soap, soaking the clothes properly, rubbing judiciously, and rinsing well. Clothes will be white if they are dried quickly in the open air and sunshine, and clean lines, clean pins, and clean poles are used. Where one cannot comply with these rules, a little bluing is sometimes a good thing to overcome the yellow- ish tint, but if bluing is used, care must be exercised in the amount used ; the water must be stirred each time be- fore immersing a piece ; one piece at a time must be dipped, and the articles must not be allowed to touch the sides of the vessel for fear of streaks. Clothes must be thorough- ly rinsed before bluing, because any soap left in them may decompose the blue substance, and the result is seen in iron rust on the linen, and sometimes in a yellowish tint over it, even when no blue is used. The presence of soap may also cause clothes to be streaked when ironed. Poor- ly rinsed clothes irritate the skin of the wearer. To keep flannels in good condition, use rain water, a weak, lukewarm suds, avoid rubbing, and dry quickly in wind and shade with little heat. Ohjects of Washing. 23 Avoid injuring clothes by exercising care in all the manipulations, as well as the materials and utensils used in washing arid ironihg them. Always use the mind as well as the hands while at work. For instance, when wringing an article which is thin in one part and thick in another, as a white petticoat with ruffles on the bot- tom; fold evenly at top, buttons inside, and, having the wringer screwed tight, run this part through; then loosen and spread the thicker portion at the bottom to the width of the rollers, and thus avoid straining the wringer, and make the article drier in all parts. THE CLEANSING PROCESS. .. Washing is done by chemical or mechanical means, or by the two methods combined, as is usilal in laundry work. Although some other liquids are used in the cleansing process, water performs practically all such work done by people in the homes. In this case, soap is the solvent, and water is the vehicle which carries the cleansing agent, and gives temporary storage room to the dirt taken from the clothes. Generally speaking, the solvent can do more thorough work in moderately warm water than in that which is either cold or hot, because cold water acts slowly on some substances generally found in soiled clothes, and hot water tends to set some kinds of dirt, if applied before the soapsuds has had a chance to enter the minute inter- stices of the fabric, and do a portion of its valuable work. The laundress often finds use for three kinds of soap, — a neutral soap, a regular laundry soap, and a strong, soft soap. In washing flannels, borax or ammonia and neu- tral soap are usually the chemical agents which, hidden in the water, attack the grease and compel it to release the fine dust particles which, aided by the mechanical work of the hands in squeezing and moving the clothes 24 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. about, find their way to the bottom of the vessel. Am- monia attacks some colors, also, and dims them, especially if much is used. In washing prints, the chemical process is the same, but if the articles are much soiled a wash- board is used, giving greater mechanical aid than the hands alone are able to do. Many substances dissolve more readily in warm than in cold water, but, as the chemicals in the water also affect the colors more when the water is hot, it is wiser to use simply warm or tepid water for flannels and prints. In washing white clothes, we need only to avoid such mechanical and chemical means as will injure the fabric or affect the whiteness of the clothes. We may use a stronger soap, and it is often found necessary to introduce a more powerful chemical agent to overcome the chemicals already in the water which will hinder the detergent work, but, if more is used than is necessary to neutralize these minerals, it stands ready to attack the next thing that presents itself. As soon as clothes are introduced, the chemical attacks the oily particles, and, having finished them, begins on the fiber of the cloth, and never stops its work of destruction until all rinsed out. More severe mechanical means than the washboard may be resorted to in washing white clothes, if it seems necessary, — as a brush applied to the dirtiest parts, such as collarbands and wristbands of shirts, etc. When clothes have been well washed in one suds, they can usually be made clear and white by placing them in tepid suds, bringing to the boiling point, and allowing them to boil for a few minuntes, with less injury to the fabric than a second washing. There are a few points to be remembered in preparing clothes for boiling. They must be wrung dry, shaken out, and the dirty parts, or the parts that were dirty and are still a little gray, must Objects of Washing. 25 be well soaped, and the suds into which they are put strong, but not hot, because hot water will set the dirt. They must not stop boiling after they begin, and, when taken into tepid water from the boiler, each piece must be punched under the water as soon as put into the tub. Lying in the air seems to set the dirt, and the fibers con- tract when plunged into cold water, and thus hold the dust particles, instead of allowing them to fall out, as they should when the clothes are rinsed or manipulated in this water, ready for the rinse water proper. Clothes should not be wrung from hot water. It is deleterious to the wringer, and does not benefit the clothes as much as gently washing or rinsing in the tub. Clothes should be punched about in the boiler as they boil. Two table- spoonfuls of kerosene in the boiler of water will aid in cleansing, though it increases the amount of soap needed. Some believe that boiling makes clothes gray, but there seems to be no reason for such belief if the above direc- tions are followed, for experience has proven that many soiled clothes can be made clean and white with boiling by using kerosene, and rubbing little, or none at all. The arguments against boiling clothes are that it requires more soap, more fuel, and more water. The reasons in favor of it are that it is easier on the clothes, more sanitary, and requires less labor. Both white clothes and prints should be thoroughly rinsed, to preserve the fabric in each case, and to keep the white clothes white, and the colored ones bright and new looking. Prints should be dried quickly in the shade to prevent bleaching the colors. White clothes should be dried in the bright sunshine, and allowed to take the dew, that they may retain their pure white appearance. Whether bluing is needed in white clothes depends upon circumstances. If they can be dried in clean air and sun- 26 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. shine, they will stay white, if one has good water and good soap, and washes them clean. But poor materials, or drying in the house, will give a cast that even bluing cannot cover up in some cases. No clothes shoul.d be hung where the dust will blow on them, or where they will switch in the wind, as the wind may fray the pdges and render the starch in the clothes of no avail. Flan- nels and prints should be taken in as soon as dry. PREPARATION FOR WASHING. (i) The day before doing the family washing, break or cleanse a sufficient quantity of water for the work, and place in a barrel in a convenient spot, and cover, if hard water must be used. (2) Collect all soiled things. (3) Sort all into heaps, each pile containing one kind only. (4) If anything is torn, mend it, or at least draw the edges together to prevent friction making the rent worse. (5) Remove all stains, if this has not been done at the time when .they were made, which, when possible, is best. (6) Shake and brush all flannels to remove dust and dirt, and roll up dry. Put all prints and colored things away dry. The piles of linen will be : First, table linen ; second, body and bed linen ; third, handkerchiefs ; fourth, toilet towels ; fifth, muslins and laces, such as curtains ; sixth, kitchen and pantry towels, such as dusters, etc. If there is room and a sufficient number of tubs and basins, put all starched things, such as collars, cuffs, and shirts to soak apart from the body linen, so that the old starch shall not soak into other things. But, if necessary, all except table linens, handkerchiefs and kitchen cloths may go into one tub. These must always be kept by themselves until they are clean, and have been boiled. objects of Washing. 27 Handkerchiefs, if very much soiled, should be soaked in salt and water, and punched about with a stick in the water in which soaked. Prepare melted soap for the washing by using bits and ends of soap which have been left. Cut these fine, and shave up as much more as is necessary, or buy soap chips for the purpose. A soap slicer can be procured for a few cents, and is a great convenience. Place the soap in an earthen jar, just cover with water, and set the jar in the oven or on the stove until the soap is melted or dis- solved. Use in the proportion of one gallon of water to one-fourth pound of soap. This should be prepared the day before the family washing is to be done, and the clothes (white) put to soak in a weak suds, and the spots which are most soiled rubbed with soap. Putting clothes to soak hastens the process of washing on the regular wash day somewhat, because the tubs are already in place, and the clothes can be wrung from the steeping water, and the tubs emptied and cleaned, while the water in the boiler is heating, so no time is lost. If the clothes have soaked in suds (which was warm when put on them) over night, a chemical process has been going on which will lessen the amount of mechanical work necessary. Wash- ing the flannels before the white clothes necessitates the use of more soap and water, but they must have mild soap, and they must be dried quickly, and sometimes the sun is getting low if one washes the white clothes first, and the flannels dry so slowly that they are shrunk more, and are not so soft as they would otherwise be. Black flannels must be washed alone, because any lint shows on them. WASHING DAY. Rise early. The air is fresher and cooler, and one is more able to do such work in the early part of the day. 28 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. Light the fire, and fill the boiler with soft water, — rain water, if possible. To Launder Flannels. Put into soft water, enough mild soap (melted) to make a good suds, and when just lukewarm pour into the tubs. Take the cleanest and lightest colored flannels first. One piece at a time must be put into the suds, and punched and kneaded well until clean, but never rubbed, because rubbing makes wool rough and hard. If flannel is very dirty, it may require two tubs of suds to clean it. When clean, rinse through two tubs of clear, soft water of same temperature as that in which it was washed. Fold smoothly (buttons inside), wring well, and shake thoroughly to raise the soft fiber. If the weather is fine and breezy, hang out at once, but if not, hang in front of, but not too near, the fire, and dry quickly to prevent shrinking. If there is sufiicient heat to cause steam, the flannel will shrink just as much as though it had been washed in water which was too warm. Never twist wools in wringing, but use the wringer or squeeze in the hands. Colored flannels are washed in the same way, with the greatest possible dispatch, and the last rinsing water may have one tablespoonful of strong vinegar to each quart of water, which helps to revive some colors. If there are two colors in the piece, dissolve one tablespoonful of salt in each quart of the last rinsing water (just water enough to immerse the article), which will help to prevent one color running into the other. Knitted and woven wool garments are sometimes better pulled into shape while drying. All flannel clothing may be more easily washed by using a little ammonia in the water, but it must be carefully used, and the clothes well rinsed thereafter. Some prefer borax in place of ammonia or soap.. It does Wools. 29 the work well, and gives good satisfaction, but it is more expensive than soap. The fine white flannels, and those which are embroidered, may be pressed with a cool iron on the right side under a thin cloth, but they must be nearly dry, first, or the iron will turn the moisture into steam, and cause them to shrink. The embroidered part must be pressed on the wrong side afterwards. The rougher and coarser flannels may be treated in a similar manner, but really require little pressing, if carefully fold- ed for wringing, and well shaken and stretched when hung up. All fine flannels should be carefully pressed under a cloth. The Best Way for Washing Flannels when Hard Water Must be Used. Make a suds with some mild soap, having water mere- ly tepid, and to each gallon of water use one tablespoonful of ammonia. Treat the clothes same as before, and put ammonia in rinsing water also. May use borax instead of ammonia, if desired. Flannels for common wear — such as underclothes — may be taken from the line when only partially dry, and stretched and neatly folded, and hung out again. To Launder Knitted Wear. Knitted jackets, drawers, babies' stockings, bootees, etc., should be washed same as wools. They should be pulled into shape while drying, or dried on frames made for the purpose. Knitted shawls may be measured before wash- ing, and pinned in shape on a sheet pinned to the floor, or they may be well shaken when wrung, and pulled into shape while drying. To Launder Hoisery. Woolen hose retain their size and shape well when dried on stretchers. Such stretchers may be easily made 30 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. by an ingenious person, by marking the outline on an inch board, and cutting out Two stockings may be dried on the same stretcher. The feet of stockings and socks often require some soap and special rubbing. They should be washed in two waters, and well rinsed. Double evenly along the back, and wring dry with wringer. Pull into shape if stretcher is not used, and, if they have white feet and dark uppers, hang by the toe in a shady place where they will dry quickly. Iron wrong side out, and leave thus until mended. May leave the stocking straight in its entire length, or draw the foot smoothly into the leg as far as the heel. Turn right side out after airing and mending. Launder merino and silk hosiery as direct- ed for silk underwear. To Wash Blankets. In washing woolens, the temperature of the waters used must be all the same from first to last. It may be tepid, warm, or as hot as the hands can bear, but must not change from one to another. It is plunging from hot into cooler water that causes bad results. There are ar- guments in favor of tepid, rather than hot or cold, water. Warm water dissolves substances more readily than cold water does. Hot water is more apt to injure colors than warm water. The air in which the wools dry is easier obtained mildly warm than hot. When ready to wash the blankets, prepare two tubs of warm suds with a neu- tral soap and rain water, if possible. Punch the blankets about and squeeze, but do not rub, and do not rub soap on them. When the suds is soiled, wring the blankets and treat in same manner in another suds, then rinse in soft water of same temperature, and hang to dry at once. Wools must not freeze, and they must not be hot enough to steam. Pin the blanket on the line the long way of Wools. 31 the blanket, so that the colors will run down their own lines, and put the blanket over the line just enough to hold, so that it will be exposed as much as possible to the action of sun and air. Having pinned it firmly on the line, snap to make straight as possible, see that it hangs straight, and, when dry, fold exactly true the en- tire length. If one desires to use no soap, a pound of borax (dissolved) for every ten gallons of water should be used. To Launder Embroidered Flannels. These should be stretched into shape as far as possible while wet, and ironed on a soft ironing sheet with a rather cool iron, and on the wrong side. Things to Remember in Washing Flannels. Have all waters of the same temperature; use a neu- tral soap, or borax, or ammonia ; use soft water, if possi- ble; never let them soak in the water, or lie wet; hang each piece out at once, and do not wash wools on a rainy day; never hang outside when they will freeze; do not hang where heat is great enough to cause steam; never iron while damp, or with a hot iron ; never soap any wools while washing them ; never rub wools in cleaning them. Theory for Shrinkage of Flannel. The wool fiber is marked by transverse divisions, like human hair, and these divisions are serrated. These teeth become tough and knotted together by rubbing, by hot water followed by cold, or by being brought into con- tact with a hot iron while still damp, also by being treated with a strong alkaline water. To Launder Silk Underwear. Make a suds of soft water, — rain water is best, — and squeeze and knead the silk to remove the dirt. Wash 32 Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. one piece at a time, rinse, stretch into shape, and dry. When nearly dry, place between two pieces of muslin, and press with a warm iron. To Wash Prints. To keep colored clothes in good condition, set the colors, if possible, before wetting. Soaking for an hour in salt and water is good for black, blue, and green, and where there are several colors it will often prevent their run- ning together. What will set a color depends upon what that particular color has been dyed with. Repeat the process of setting colors each time they are washed. Wash the lightest colors first ; do not rub soap on prints. Avoid much rubbing; squeeze and knead, mostly, rinse well, wring thoroughly, and dry quickly. If required to be but slightly stiff, have starch ready, and dip at once, as the colors are apt to run if they lie wet. If they are to be very stiff, dry thoroughly first, or they will not ab- sorb sufficient starch. If a black and white gingham has from any cause dried in streaks, the defects may be re- moved as follows : Soak the garment several hours in cold water, then wash, rubbing the stained parts well, rinse thoroughly, wring dry, and hang in a shady place where the wind blows briskly, that it may dry very quickly. To Wash White Clothes. Examine each piece carefully for any stains or frayed places that may have escaped notice. If a frayed place is found, draw the edges together, that it may not be- come worse. If a stain is discovered, proceed with it as directed on page 33. W^hen ready to wash, prepare a suds of rain water or softened water. Have the suds moderately strong, and as hot as the hands can bear. Be- gin by putting the cleanest pieces, a few at a time, into the tub. Wash on the right side, then turn and wash on White Clothes. 33 the wrong side, giving especial attention to the dirtiest parts, and rubbing only enough to remove the dirt. Fold with buttons and strings inside, and wring dry. Shake out, and soap dirty parts, and boil and rinse as directed in remarks on ''Cleansing." Blue tr not, as desired. In the country, where there is clean air and bright sunshine in which to dry clothes, bluing is seldom needed, pro- vided the clothes are properly washed. In the city there is dust and smoke in the air, and little opportunity for bleaching clothes on grass in sunshine and dew, and a little bluing in that case is sometimes necessary. Hang all things wrong side out, on- account of dust. Hang wearing apparel by the thickest parts, that the water may drain out of these parts, and allow the article to dry quick- ly; also because the strain will be less. Handkerchiefs should be just caught on the line to prevent blowing away. Small linens and pillow cases may be hung in same way. Nothing must drag; when clothes are dry, take down, if wind is strong enough to switch them. To Remove Stains from Table Cloths, Napkins, Etc. All stains should be removed as soon after on as pos- sible, as they are less obstinate before dried into the cloth. Whether stained with tea, coffee, chocolate, or fruit, stretch the stained portion of the linen over a bowl or basin, and pour actually boiling water from the tea kettle on the stain, holding the tea kettle high enough to let the water fall with some force on the stain. If the stain does not disappear at once, rub it between the hands, and again apply boiling water. Soft water is best for this pur- pose. If a stain has been overlooked and washed in, it is difficult to remove, and should be bleached on the grass, or the rule for old stains given elsewhere may be used. Old tea stains will sometimes yield to boiling water, if 34 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. first saturated with glycerine, and allowed to soak for a time. To Wash Table Linens. Wring from the water in which soaked, shake well, and place a few pieces at a time in warm soap suds. Rub on soap, and wash until clean, giving special attention to dirty spots, but be careful not to rub too much, as they are usually not very dirty, and hard rubbing injures the cloth. Change suds as often as dirty. When clean, put into tepid suds in the boiler, let come to the boiling point, and boil a few minutes, but do not allow to stop boiling after it begins, or the clothes will not look so well when finished. Lift with a clean, smooth, wooden stick into a tub of clear tepid water, wash, and wring. Let lie in the basket until ready to rinse, then rinse thoroughly in clear tepid water, fold smoothly, and wring; shake and hang up by spreading one hem over the line three or four inches deep, and fastening at each end, not less than three or four inches from the selvage, in order to avoid much strain on the corners and edges. Fold the other hem over to the same depth and on top of the first, but put the pins in in such a way that the second side will hang full, not out straight, and see that the hem droops and forms a bag into which the air can get, and dry the cloth by blowing it out like a sail. Follow the same rule in washing all the different sets of linen, leaving the dirtiest till the last. If linen has good body, no starch is needed. In thin linens a little starch or gum arabic in the water gives a bet- ter looking cloth, but not enough of either must be used to make linen appear starched. The only object in using any stiffening agent is to prevent flimsiness. Iron as soon as dried a little, if convenient; otherwise, take from the line as soon as they are dry, because they will be injured by hanging long in the wind. White Clothes. 35 To Wash Colored Table Linens. For colored table linens, soft water should be used, and they should be washed and dried the same as prints. To Wash Doilies. Prepare suds of rain water and neutral soap, or use borax instead of soap. If borax is used, one tablespoonful of powdered borax dissolved in a little hot water should be added to each gallon of water used. The doilies should be put into the water one at a time, and kneaded and punched until clean, then rinsed thoroughly, laid on a towel, and, with another towel on top of the doily, be rolled up for a few minutes before ironing. Take another doily, and wash and prepare for ironing same as before, until all are done. They are rolled in towels to prevent the colors staining other parts, and that the towels r»ay absorb a little of the moisture, as doilies must be ironed very damp. Iron as directed on page 64. To Launder Dish Cloths and Tea Towels. There is such a thing as the dish cloth getting into such a condition as to need a label with skull and cross- bones, the same as other dangerous things about the house. It should be washed in the hands and dried each time it is used. When the weekly washing is done, take some soap suds in a separate small tub or basin, and wash the tea towels. Soap well, and put to boil in cold or tepid suds. Let this suds be strong with soap, and put in a tablespoonful of kerosene to each gallon of water. Keep a tin pail bright for this purpose. After the towels have boiled half an hour wash them, rinse, and put to dry, and take the dish rag through a similar course. It may smell of kerosene, but take it wet from under the sink and it sometimes smells worse. The air will take the smell of kerosene away, and the soap suds and hot water will re- 36 Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. move all germs and much grease and dirt. Some house- keepers prefer to do this part of the laundry work on a separate day, but it seems less trouble to accomplish it when fire, water, and all needed utensils are at hand. These need no ironing; just fold neatly and lay away. To Remove Stains. All stains should be removed immediately when possi- ble, as they are much more difficult to dislodge if allowed to dry. Milk stains and meat stains should be washed out with warm water, but fruit, tea, coffee, and choco- late stains are removed with boiling water, in the manner directed in "Laundering Table Linens," page 33. When stains have been overlooked until dry and set by the soap suds in washing, they are much more difficult to remove, and often require special treatment. Sulphur fumes can sometimes be effectively used in removing fruit stains. In order to concentrate the power of the sulphur as much as possible, secure an old plate and a tin funnel, and place them where the air from an open window or door will carry the fumes from the person working with the stain. Wet the stained portion with cold water, put a piece of brimstone or a tablespoonful of powdered sulphur on the plate, secure the stained portion over the opening in the funnel, and put a coal of fire on the sulphur. Keep the cloth wet by using a swab made by tying a bit of white cloth on the end of a stick. When the stain disappears, wash and rinse the spot well. Fruit stains can often be removed from the hands by the use of sulphur fumes, a freshly lighted match, or by rubbing them with tomatoes (raw) and salt, lemon juice and salt, etc. To Remove Old Fruit Stains. When fruit stains have been washed a number of times they become as firmly fixed in the cloth as a dyed color, Removing Stains. 37 and can be removed only by the use of some bleaching ma- terial, as chloride of lime, javelle water, oxalic acid, etc. To remove stains with oxalic acid, put two bowls on the table. In one put a pint of warm water and a teaspoonful of concentrated oxalic acid. In the other bowl put the same amount of water, and a teaspoonful of concen- trated ammonia. Stretch the stained portion over an empty bowl, pour boiling water through it, and while still hot, dip in the acid water, and rub; then put in the ammonia water, and rub until the stain disappears; then rinse thoroughly in ammonia water, and afterward in clear water,, to be sure that no acid remains, as it will in- jure the fabric. One may use the acid by setting a flat iron on end, and laying the stain wet in hot water over the tip of the iron, thus keeping the cloth hot while apply- ing the acid ; but there is more danger of making a hole in the cloth than by the slower process. Javelle water may be applied in the same way as the oxalic acid, but must be used with equal care, as it is very powerful in its action. To Remove Dry Paint Stains. To remove dry paint stains from unwashable goods, saturate the spot with oil (if the colors in goods are deli- cate), let lie a short time, and clean with chloroform by dipping in the chloroform and then rubbing between the hands. Lastly, take a clean cloth wet in chloroform, and rub well from outside to center of spot, to prevent a ring. If the colors are not delicate, use turpentine instead of chloroform, and leave out the oil. To Remove Grass Stains. Saturate the stained part with sorghum, molasses. Rub molasses in well, and the spot will soon disappear; then wash as usual. May use chloroform instead of sorghum. 38 Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. I To Remove Fresh Paint. Wash the soiled part at once with soap and rain water. To Remove Fresh Paint from TJnwashable Goods. Wash the spot in kerosene, and hang the garment in the air until the kerosene evaporates; or wash the injured spot in benzine or naphtha. These last two are very volatile, and extreme danger attends using them about a lamp or fire. To Remove Fresh Tar. Treat fresh tar spots in same way as fresh paint. To Remove Grass Stains on TJnwashable Goods. Wet the spot in alcohol, and rub toward center with a white cloth. To Remove Wine Stains. Cover with dampened salt, and lay in hot sun and dew. Repeat the process if the stain proves obstinate. To Remove Purple Ink. Absorb all possible with blotting paper, or salt while ^he ink is fresh. Afterwards apply alcohol and glycerine m equal parts, and rub and sponge the stained part until the ink disappears. To Remove Iron Rust. Saturate with lemon juice and salt, and lay in hot sun- shine; wet again in the salt and lemon juice, and rub. If it is obstinate, use hydrochloric acid and warm water, one-third acid, and two-thirds warm water. Iron rust is an oxide of iron, and must be dissolved before it can be removed. Red iron rust will sometimes yield to the following treatment: Cover the spot with a thick paste made of pieplant juice or lemon juice thickened with salt and raw laundry starch. Half as much starch as salt Removing Stains. 39 should be used. Rub the paste into the spot, let lie in sun and dew, and repeat treatment if necessary. To Remove Vaseline Stains. Soak vaseline stains in kerosene before washing. Then wash as usual, or clean with chloroform, if goods cannot be washed. Soap and water is sometimes all that is nec- essary. To Remove Mildew. This should be removed when fresh, if one is so unfort- unate as to have articles injured by it. Mildew can sometimes be removed by soaking the spot in strong vin- egar saturated with salt', and rubbing, if treated as soon as discovered. Lemon juice may be used instead of vinegar. Mildew is a plant, and grows when clothes are left damp in a warm place. In time it becomes so rooted in the fibers, so to speak, that it cannot be separated from them. If taken early it can sometimes be removed by boiling in soap suds, and leaving in dew and sunshine for a few days and nights. Wet in soap suds, and soap the affected parts, cover with powdered chalk, and let lie several days in hot sunshine ; or, if this fails, make a paste of French chalk and water, rub well into the stain, and let lie as before. Mildew can be easily removed with chloride of lime prepared as for bleaching clothes, or with javelle water ; but when it has became so firmly implanted in the cloth that it will not yield to milder treatment, it is apt to leave a hole when it disappears. To Remove Peach Stams. Peach stains are obstinate. A little alcohol rubbed into the stain and allowed to evaporate, and the treatment re- peated two or three times before boiling water is applied, will sometimes remove such stains, but an acid or javelle water are frequently the only means of removing them, if allowed to become fixed. 40 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. To Remove Black Ink. As soon as the ink is spilled, throw salt on it, and allow to absorb as much as possible. If the ink is on white, wash in lemon juice and salt, or vinegar and salt, or pie- plant juice and salt, rubbing for a time, then allowing to soak, and rubbing again. If ink is spilled on colored goods, use milk (sweet or sour) and salt, and proceed in the same manner as with lemon juice. To Remove Wax Spots. Use kerosene, benzine, or naphtha. May remove by ironing on blotting paper. To Remove Paint on Flour Sacks. When paint is in such large quantities as here, rub soft soap on while dry. Then put to soak in warm soap suds, and the next day wash and boil after all other things are out of the way. To Remove Dry Paint from Window Glass. Put a little baking soda on a cloth, and rub the spot with it, or remove by rubbing with a penny. To Remove Perspiration Stains. Wet goods in strong soap suds, and let lie in the dew and sunshine several days. To Remove Stains on Colored Goods. Stains caused by perspiration can sometimes be removed from shirtwaists by the use of boiling water. Fruit stains may be treated with boiling water when the colors permit ; but when hot water injures the colors, or will not remove the stain, wash with sweet milk and salt, let soak in it, and even allow to remain until the milk sours. If the sour milk injures the color, soak the goods in water containing a very little ammonia. Paraffin Washing. 41 To Remove Blood Stains. When handkerchiefs are stained with blood from nose- bleed, soak in warm soap suds before putting into the tub. To Remove Axle Grease, Machine Oii, Etc. Rub the stained portion well with fresh lard, and allow to lie half an hour before washing. To Remove Stains from Infants' Clothes. Lay on the grass, and allow to freeze and bleach. JAVELLE WATER. Javelle water is used in bleaching linens, etc., (quick process), and made in the following manner : Put into a graniteware saucepan one-half a pound of sal soda and two ounces of chloride of lime, pour over this one quart of boiling water, and allow to dissolve. When the water has dissolved all it will, pour the clear water off, bottle, and set away for a stain remover and bleacher. Add more hot water to the part remaining, and treat in the same way. To Remove Stains with Javelle Water. Place the stained portion of the goods smoothly over some hard substance which will not be acted upon by the alkali, as the bottom of a meat platter, and apply the javelle water with a small brush, rinse quickly in clear water, then in ammonia water. If the stain has not disappeared, treat in the same manner again, being careful to rinse well each time, that the fabric may not be injured. PARAFPINE WASHING. Soak the clothes over night in tepid water. Make a strong suds, same as for boiling clothes, and for each six gallons of water add two tablespoonfuls of kerosene. Wring the clothes, shake them out,, and put into the 42 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. water while still cold, at least before it gets hot, and let boil half an hour, punching occasionally. Never let them stop boiling until taken out. Take them from this water into a clear, warm water, and knead and punch them to get the dirty water out; then wring, and repeat the first process. They sometimes need three boilings, if very much soiled, but if not much soiled, one is sufficient. Rinse first in a hot water, and again in a warm water, to remove the oil. If the water is cold, the oil may cause specks on the clothes by attaching itself, with dust particles adhering to it, to the clothes. This method of wash- ing when the work is properly done, makes clean, white clothes, but requires much fuel, soap, and water. In using kerosene, one should never take the can to the fire, but pour out a little in a cup. When the cleanest things have been boiled, the water can be cooled, and more soap and kerosene added, and the second lot of clothes put to boil in the same suds. The boiler, tubs, wringer, and everything used will need to be well washed, as the kerosene will leave a greasy scum. BLEACHING FABRICS. When for any reason clothes have become yellow, bleach them by the methods our good old grandmothers used. Begin the work early in the spring, before insects are thick on the grass. Boil the clothes in soap suds, and lay on the grass* after wringing them moderately dry. Let them lie there until the next week's washday, and repeat the process until they are again white. Or, if you wish, boil them, rinse them, and immerse them in a liquid . composed of buttermilk and water in equal parts, and after three or four days rinse the milk out thoroughly, boil them again, and, if not quite white, repeat the process. Freez- ing holds the moisture in the clothes, and causes it to re- Bleaching. 43 main longer than on a summer day, but the sun has less effect on them in winter. Nevertheless, winter bleaching is good if one can avoid smoke. There are artificial bleaching powders to be had, and they are sufficiently powerful to do the work very quickly, but when using them one must remember that such chem- icals are powerful, and that they never rest. When they have destroyed the organic matter which caused the yel- lowness, they attack the fiber of the cloth, and destroy that unless they are quickly and thoroughly removed by rinsing in plenty of water. The fabric often needs soak- ing in ammonia water to overcome the acid somewhat before trying to rinse it out. Bleaching powders can be bought in boxes, and directions for using are given on the box, but any woman who has grass and sunshine does not need them. If the water is impure, do the bleaching in the winter, when there is snow water. Bleaching by means of chemicals is much more rapid than the old way, and by a careful person the work can be done with little injury to the fabric, but it is easier to injure than to avoid doing so. Hence the admonition, — be very careful in the use of chemicals. Chlorine is the active agent of most bleaching powders. Of this, Youmans says : 'Tt is so powerful that, if not quickly removed, it corrodes and weakens the fabric." Javelle water, much used for bleaching, is composed of a strong solution of chloride of lime and sal soda in water. Turpentine has some little power as a bleacher, and is best used by mixing with the soap jelly, and rubbing on the dirty spots or portions when the clothes are put to boil. Borax has also some bleaching, as well as detergent, power, but is too expensive for general use. It is often used in the water in which lace curtains are boiled, to bleach them some. Use two ounces of borax dissolved 44 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. in hot water for each two and one-half gallons of water used for the boiling process. REASONS FOR CLOTHES BECOMING YELLOW. Lying long unused; drying in the house; imperfect washing; poor soap; impure water, — that is, water con- taining matter which stains the clothes ; not rinsing thor- oughly; using too much alkali in softening the water. Any woman with practical knowledge of cookery expects her biscuits to have a yellow cast when an excess of soda is used. Why should she not expect a similar action of a more powerful soda on the clothes? BLUINGS. There are a variety of bluings to be had. The three, indigo, ultramarine, and aniline blue, will serve to illus- trate. Indigo blue is of vegetable origin, and has the" deep blue color indicated by its name. It is easier to use than the ultramarine blue because it mixes more readily with the water, though it has not such a beautiful blue tint. Ultramarine blue is a fine powder, insoluble in water, and unless the bluing water is frequently and thor- oughly stirred and attention given to sides and bottom of the tub, this powder will adhere, and mar the clothes. Aniline blue will not be satisfactory if a bleach has been used which leaves a trace of acid in the rinsing water. Bluing in ball or lump form should be tied in a cloth, from which it can be washed into the water. A powder should be mixed with warm water in a cup. Hot water causes some bluings to separate into fine particles, which are not visible when tepid water is used. Liquid bluing must be used with care, else the hands will soil the clothes. Accustom yourself to some brand of bluing that you find good, and then use that, for you will soon be able to judge starches. 45 by the appearance of the water when the right amount has been used, and you will know how to guard against its imperfections. Precautions Necessary in the Use of Bluing. Do not use too much. The clothes should never have a blue cast. If a liquid bluing is used, pour in a little, stir and try it by putting the hand down in the water. When you think it is right, try it with a white cloth be- fore dipping any wearing apparel into it. Wring each article from the rinsing water before putting through the bluing water, then dip and wring them one at a time. If the clothes are not shaken out before dipping, they may be streaked. If the water is not stirred well before the clothes are put in, the same result may follow, because some bluings do not dissolve, but settle in a fine powdei* on the bottom of the tub. If the bluing is not dissolved before putting in, there may be spots on the clothes. If the soap is not all rinsed out, there may be iron rust on the clothes, caused by the soap uniting with the bluing, as some bluings contain iron, and it unites with the alkali. STARCH. Starch is obtained from the vegetable kingdom. It oc- curs in almost all plants at some time during their growth, though in small amounts in some kinds of plants. Its mission is to furnish a portion of the food needed for the growth of the new plant. In some cases it is stored in the ripe seed of the plant, as in the cereal grains, beans, peas, etc. In some cases it is found in the stems, as is the case in the sago palm. Sometimes it occurs in the roots, as the maranta, from which arrowroot is made. Tapioca is produced from cassava or manioc root. Some plants produce starch-bearing tubers, as the potato. Starch occurs in plants in the form of small granules. These 46 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. vary in size and appearance in different plants. Some starch granules are two one-lumdredths of an inch in di- ameter, others one three-hundredth of an inch. Some are round or oval, some angular, some smooth, while oth- ers seem to be composed of concentric rings; some have distinct markings on the surface, others none. Thus, by the aid of the microscope, one is able to distinguish the starches from different plants. A rough test can be made by cooking equal amounts of the different kinds of starches in test tubes, using an equal amount of starch and water for each. A drop of iodine in each will show different shades of blue. Wlieat starch gives a deep indigo color, corn a lighter blue, and potato starch still lighter. Manufacture of Starch. This beautiful, white, smooth powder may be produced from the potato by purely mechanical means. The pota- toes are washed clean, freed from imperfect spots, and shredded by machines. They are then washed and pressed on sufficiently fine cloth to prevent the pulp going through, until the starch is all out. The starch is allowed to set- tle, and the most of the water poured off. More clear water is added, and the starch washed and poured into a cloth thin enough to allow the small starch granules to fall through, but able to keep out all impurities. The starch settles to the bottom and the process is repeated until there is no longer any color, and then the starch is dried. Starch may be made from corn and wheat in a manner similar to the following : Soak the grain in water until soft, and then crush. When the crushed mass is washed in a large tank of water, the hulls will rise, and can be removed from the surface of the liquid. If the remaining mass is washed in running water, the germs will sink to the bottom, and the water, carrying the gluten and starch, will flow on into another tank. After a series starches. 47 of washings, the nitrogenous and other matters are all carried away by the water, to be used for other purposes. The starch is washed until the water is clear. The starchy water is strained each time it flows through a tank by passing over bolting cloth, which allows the starch to fall through, and the water carrying the refuse flows on. Fermentation is allowed to proceed sufficiently to dissolve the nitrogenous matters, and thus render them separable from the starch, before the washings begin. In making starch from rice, the nitrogenous bodies are dissolved by treating the grain with a very dilute alkaline solution, which does not affect the starch. Corn flour is prepared from corn in a similar manner, and is simply corn starch by another process. Starch is used in the laundry to give clothes a better appearance, and to aid in keeping them clean longer. In textile work, starch is used to stiffen and make more beautiful the materials there produced. Starch for laundry purposes is made mostly from rice, wheat, corn and potatoes. According to Weisner, corn starch has the highest, and potato starch the lowest, stiffening power. Corn starch renders fabrics very stiff, so stiff that they will often break when bent. It gives a rougher exterior than some other starches. It is usually cheap, costing much less than either wheat or rice starch in this country. Wheat starch renders fabrics smooth and flexible. Wheat starch and corn starch, mixed in the pro- portion of two parts corn starch to one part wheat starch, gives very good results, as the articles then have both flexibility and stiffness. Rice starch is regarded as hav- ing power to stiffen without giving a papery effect, and is also a favorite on account of its pearly whiteness. Rice starch is especially desirable for fine muslins, lace cur- tains, etc. Corn starch is much used in this country be- 48 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. cause it is abundant and cheap, has good stiffening pow- er, and is sufficiently smooth for ordinary work. Wheat and corn starches combined are much used in stiff starch- ing. Potato starch, though possessing rather low stiffen- ing power, is -excellent for ordinary purposes, and can be easily and quickly made at home. Sago flour is used as a starch in calico and some other manufactories. Great Britain, France, and Belgium manufacture rice starch quite extensively, and it is very generally used in Europe. Starching. All white things which are to be starched stiff must be perfectly dried first. Anything which is not to be very stiff is better dried first, but does very nicely if starched immediately after rinsing. Starch is used, first, to give a nice appearance ; second, to keep things clean longer. Only a little starch must be used with delicate fabrics ; much starch makes them stiff, and they should be no stiffer than when new. General Directions for Making Starch. Most starched are insoluble in cold water, bi:t will form a liquid of creamy consistency when stirred into cold water. All starches must be thus treated, else there is danger of hard lumps after the starch is made. This is liable to give rough surfaces with any starch, and with tinted starches there will be colored spots. The starch and cold water should be thoroughly mixed before the boiling water is poured over them, and constant- ly stirred while the water is slowly added. The stirring should be continued as the starch cooks, until it is done. The starch grains will swell and burst, and the liquid will become clear with a few minutes' boiling. Starch grains will in time burst at a heat below boiling, but boiling makes the starch a little more concentrated, and clothes starches. 49 starched in it iron smoother and cause less trouble by the iron sticking. There are a number of ways of test- ing the strength of different starches. One is to place a small amount on the tongue, and allow it to dissolve, the starch requiring the longer time being considered stronger. Another way is to make starch and test its stiffening power. The latter is usually far more practical for the laundress. Bran water is used in laundering colored fabrics, as blacks, browns, etc., which are difficult to manipulate with starch. Bran water has some cleansing power, be- sides taking the place of starch. To prepare bran water for use, put into a large saucepan, or clean, bright kettle, two quarts of wheat bran (measured without pack- ing) . Pour over this enough water to moisten well — not less than two quarts. Heat to the boiling point, and let steep for half an hour, then strain. If the article to be cleansed is much soiled, wash it first as directed for prints, then rinse the soap out, wring dry, and put the article into the bran water, and let soak ten minutes if the color will not run; but, if it does, squeeze the article to be starched between the hands in the bran water until it has penetrated to every part, wring medium dry, and hang where it will dry quickly, but not in the sunshine. When the article is but little soiled, cleanse by simply squeezing and punching it about in the bran water, and rinse in an- other bran water, prepared by re-steeping the bran used in the first place. Bran has considerable stiffening power, and will bear using a second time if, after first using, it has not been rinsed out with water after steeping, but has simply had the water drained off from it. To Starch Plain Black Prints. To prevent starch showing on black, brown, or navy blue prints, make the starch with coffee or tea ; otherwise, treat as other starched goods. 50 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. Materials Used in Starch. Borax and alum are used in starch to render thinner a starch which boils thick, that it may the more readily pene- trate the goods. Bluing may be necessary, when borax is used, to give a clear blue white, though with some water it may not be needed. Although the materials used in starch have little effect in the production of gloss, that depending largely on pressure and friction, many things are used to give gloss and to make the iron run smoothly. Among them are paraffine, lard, kerosene, Japanese wax, borax, gum arable, etc. Those preparations which can be bought on the markets have directions for use given with them. Keeping the irons clean, smooth, and bright will usually enable the ironer to produce satisfactory results without the aid of polishing materials. White wax, alum, borax, etc., may be successfully used in the starch for polishing, by following directions given elsewhere. Tinted Starches. Starches of various colors may now be bought, and are useful in cases where white starch shows or where a tint has been removed by exposure to the air and the sunlight, as in window curtains. Extra care is necessary in mixing such starches with the cold water, but they are made exactly as directed for starch for prints. If you wish a lighter tint than the starch gives, mix some white starch with it before making. If you wish an ecru color, use a pint of coffee to each gallon of liquid starch. A little saffron tea will give a cream color, a decoction of logwood a delicate pink, cold tea the color of old lace, etc. Cold Starch. Use two teaspoonfuls of starch to each cup of water (a prepared starch is preferred to the common starch for cold starching), and three or four drops of turpentine, if de- starches. 51 sired. The turpentine makes the iron run smoothly. Borax is sometimes used, but is not necessary to good results. Put the starch into the dish, pour on a little water, and mix with the starch to prevent lumps, then add all the water. Wet the portion of the garment just above that to be starched, to prevent its absorbing starch and becoming white. Stir the starch well and dip col- lars, cuffs, etc., dry. When clothes dipped in cold starch are thoroughly wet through, fold them in a dry cloth, wrap another cloth around them, and let lie ten to twenty minutes, then wipe off all the starch possible with the dry cloth in which they were wrapped. If they are not thor- oughly wet through, there will be limber places when ironed. Starch for Stiff Starching. Two generous tablespoonfuls of corn starch and one generous tablespoonful of wheat starch. Mix with suffi- cient cold water to give a creamy consistency, then pour on one pint of boiUng water, and add one tablespoonful of kerosene and one-half a tablespoonful of lard. Let boil slowly for ten minutes, and stir often to prevent stick- ing at the bottom. When done, be ready to use it, and keep the saucepan containing it in hot water to prevent cooling the starch, as it is taken up by the cloth much better while still hot. The above amount of starch is suf- ficient for three shirt fronts, six collars, or four cuffs. If borax is used, take one teaspoonful of borax and half the amount of alum, dissolve in hot water, and boil with the starch. If white wax or paraffine candle is used, take what will equal one-eighth of an inch slice from a candle with the wick removed. When wax is used, add it as soon as the starch boils, and keep the starch stirred, but be careful about throwing particles of wax on to the stove. Wax sometimes causes specks over the linen when ironed, 52 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. because it cools in small particles like grains of sand, and, being melted with the hot iron, shows under the surface. Starch for Prints. Use four ounces (a generous half cup) of gloss starch to one quart of boiling water. Use one-fourth of a cup of cold water to moisten the starch to a cream, and see that all lumps are pressed out with a wooden spoon be- fore adding the boiling water. Cook ten minutes, and add one quart of cold water. Borax is not necessary, but, if desired, use one teaspoonful to the above amount. Fab- rics of any kind will be made stiffer by allowing them to dry before starching. Care must be exercised, else the starch will not be distributed evenly through the fabric. A well-cooked starch also gives more satisfactory results than one which has simply come to the boiling point. Starches vary so much in strength that the amounts can only be approximately given. To Starch Prints. Turn each garment wrong side out, dip it in the starch, and see that every portion of it is saturated with starch water. Such garments should have the same amount of stiffness that the cloth had when new. If the garment is dry, make the starch thinner than when the garment is wet, and be sure that every portion is wet with the starch. Do not have starch hot, as this may injure the colors. Wring each garment medium dry, and hang in the shade as soon as starched. Starch for Curtains, Fine Muslins, Etc. This is usually known as starch for "clear starching." Rice starch is considered best for such work because the desired stiffness can be obtained without the papery ef- fect which some other starches impart to fabrics. Wheat starch is more desirable than corn starch for such work. starches. 53 Allow a generous half cup of the starch to each pair of curtains, moisten in half a cup of cold water, and add one quart of boiling water, stirring all the time. Cook ten minutes, stirring constantly, remove from the fire, and add one quart of cold water, and it is ready for use. All starches must be constantly stirred while cooking, to prevent them sticking to the kettle. If the starch is made according to these directions, it will need no straining un- less it stands without a close-fitting cover. In that case it will need straining, because a scum will form over the surface. Be absolutely certain that the water with which starch is made is free from everything which will detract from the whiteness of the clothes. Sometimes clothes are whiter before ironing than afterwards. In this case, sus- pect the starch, or the thoroughness of the rinsing. To Starch a Petticoat or Underwear of Any Kind. Pour the starch into a clean vessel of suitable size, and add water, either warm or cold, until the starch is of the proper consistency. This must be learned by practice, because starches have different degrees of strength. The finished article wants to be only moderately stiff, just to iron nicely. If it is too stiff it will rattle like paper at every step the wearer takes; if not stiff enough, it will not iron well. To give the most satisfactory results, dip the lower part — the trimmed portion — in such starch as will render it about the same stiffness as when new, and lay in the basket. If a petticoat, when through starching the lower part, dip the upper part in very thin starch. It will iron better, and stand out a very little, if any, more than without starch. Drawers, nightdresses, corset covers, etc., should be without starch except on trimmed parts, or, if desired, have the other parts dipped in very thin starch to make like new goods of the same kind. 54 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. To Starch Thin Muslins. Wring them dry from the rinsing water, and dip in rice starch to make same stiffness as when new. Clap between the hands until dry enough to iron, if the articles are small; otherwise, hang out a few minutes, and, for best results, iron as soon as dry enough to iron smooth. If they are hung out, have them wrong side out, to pro- tect them from dust, etc. To Make Rice Starch. Use one-fourth of a pound of rice and one quart of water. Cook until rice is a pulp, keeping up the quantity of water, then pour in one quart of hot water, and strain through a flannel cloth. Use rice starch for very thin things, such as handkerchiefs and baby clothes. To Make Potato Starch. If it is desirable to use a home-made starch, potato starch, made in the following manner, will be found very satisfactory: Scrub a large potato until perfectly clean, and pare and wash in perfectly clean water to remove any possible color. Then place in a clean bowl a quart of water, and into it grate the potato. Wash out the starch by rubbing the grated potato in the hands, and pour into a cheesecloth strainer. Let the starch settle, and pour the water off, then pour on more clean water, stir, let settle, and again pour off. With the white starch which remains in the bottom make boiled starch in the same manner as with any starch. To Starch a Shirt. Make starch as directed for stiff starching, and use a clean, bare, unpainted table to work on. Things for stiff starching should be thoroughly dried before starching. Have the shirt wrong side out, and rub starch on the neckband with the fingers. Then rub between the hands Folding Clothes. 55 until the cloth is thoroughly saturated with starch. Rub starch on the wrong side of the bosom, and rub between the hands until that is thoroughly wet, — every thread of it clear through. Treat the wristbands in same way, and, when done, use a clean white cloth and wipe off all sur- plus starch. When well wiped, smooth out all wrinkles with the fingers, and hang the shirt up to dry. Have it hang perfectly straight by putting a stick through at the shoulders. If the rubbing is properly done, these will be as stiff as when they come from the laundry. Starch col- lars and cuffs same as shirts, — and do not bend in hang- ing, but hang by strings in the button holes, because if bent they will be limp in those places when dry. DAMPENING AND FOLDING CLOTHES. When the clothes are dry, they should be taken from the line, put into a clothes basket and carried to the iron- ing room. Articles of the same kind should be put to- gether in the basket as far as possible. Each piece should be shaken when taken from the line, to free from all pos- sible insects. The clothes may be folded smoothly as laid in the basket, if time permits. When ready to fold the clothes, line a basket with an old sheet or other white cloth to prevent staining, and see that there is a clean table large enough to allow^ an article of ordinary size to lie on it straight and smooth. See that the hands and clothes of the person doing the folding are perfectly clean, and have a basin of tepid water at hand. To fold a tablecloth, put the selvage edges together, and fold smoothly along the length of the cloth. Fold again by putting the hems together, thus making a crosswise fold. Lay the cloth on the table and dampen each side of the fold, then open and dampen the other parts well. Table linens must be well dampened, else they will not 56 Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. take a good gloss when ironed. When the cloth is damp- ened all over, refold, roll up, and lay in the basket. Sheets are large and rather unwieldy for one person to fold. To fold a sheet properly for ironing, take the wide hem in the right hand and the narrow hem in the left, and fold them together. Lay the sheet as folded smoothly on the table, with the hems toward you. Fold the sheet so that the folded edge now opposite the hems will lie on them. The sheet is now folded twice crosswise. Fold again by putting the selvages together, hems inside. Dampen both inside and outside the fold, roll the sheet up, and lay in the basket. Sheets and underwear should be damp- ened just enough to iron well, for, if very damp, they require unnecessary work in ironing, and it takes longer to make perfectly dry before laying away. Clothes may be turned or not before dampening. If they are put in the basket wrong side out, accidental smut or stain does not mar the right side, but it takes a little time and care to turn them before ironing. To dampen things of single width, as napkins, etc., lay the table nap- kins or serviettes on the table, the edges even, and sel- vages together. Sprinkle the upper one, and pull aside, then sprinkle the next, and so on. When all are done, lay together again, and roll tight, with a towel or white cloth on the outside. Prepare pillow cases, toilet towels, etc., in the same way. Bath towels need no ironing ex- cept to brush or comb the fringe, and smooth the plain strip between this and the body of the towel with a mod- erately hot iron. Such towels are intended to be rough, and the fluffier, the better they are. Simply smooth with the hands. Dampened clothes should set over night, or for several hours, until evenly damp clear through and in every part. Do not put colored clothes near the white ones, as they may stain them. Dampen nothing that has Dampening. 57 colors which ma}^ run. Let -such be ironed before they are entirely dry, or dampened only a short time before ironing. Use warm water for dampening, because it spreads more rapidly. See that the dampening is done evenly. If the hand is used, let -the sprinkles be made fine as possible. Where an article has colors which may run into other parts of it, like the border of a towel, lay it on a cloth, lay a damp cloth over it, and roll up. Leave things wrong side out until ready to iron if desired. When all the clothes are folded, lay the covering over the basket, and set away until ready to iron. Do not let damp clothes lie folded longer than necessary in summer, as starched clothes mildew readily. If unable to finish the ironing, shake out the ones which are left, and dry them. Clothes thus treated never look their best unless rewashed, but this treatment is less objectionable than mildew. To Dampen a Shirt. When perfectly dry, take from the line, and wring the •npper part of the back (not including the neckband) from hot water, and lay smooth over the bosom. The shirt, is now right side out. Wring the lower part of the front moderately dry from hot water, and turn up over the bosom. Lay the wristbands in such a way that the wet portion will cover them. Roll the shirt up tight, and let lay over night. It will not seem to the amateur to be damp enough, but it will smooth out with heavy pressure, and if made damper it will often blister. To Dampen a Shirt Another Way. Sprinkle the unstarched part or body of the shirt slight- ly. Procure a piece of muslin a little longer and a little wider than the shirt front. Wring the cloth from hot water, lay on the front, lay the wristbands out straight 58 - Laundry Worlc for Homes and Schools. on the cloth which covers the front, and put a narrow wet cloth over each of them the same as on the front. Fold the sleeves over on the front, and the skirt over these. Put in a press, or fold, and let lie several hours. To Dampen Collars and Cuffs. Dip a clean white towel in hot water and wring mod- erately dry. Lay a collar straight on the towel and turn one thickness over it. Put on another collar, and turn the towel over it, and so continue until all are in. Keep straight, and, when ready to iron, take out just one at a time. Starched things should not be damp enough to stick to the ironing board. If goods blister when ironed, wring the dampening cloth a little dryer next time. It is very important that things done in stiff starch have a uniform dampness. When they are too wet they are much less stiff when ironed than before. If they are too dry, it is impossible to smooth them. They must be just damp enough to smooth under heavy pressure. It is bet- ter to lay both collars and shirts out straight, as directed in dampening, and put under weight over night, when possible, as dampness goes through them better. Damp- ening machines are used in laundries, and uniform damp- ness is thus secured, but at home one must learn by prac- tice just how damp to wring the dampening cloths. Use the same ones always, that no trouble be caused by a cloth of different thickness. To Dampen a Shirt Waist. Wrap the portions done in stiff starch in damp white cloths, same as shirts and collars. Dampen the remainder of the garment in the usual way, and roll up. Things done in corn starch will dampen in a shorter time than those done in rice or wheat starch. Ironing. Ironing Board. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR IRONING. The object of ironing is to make clothes look better, and stay clean longer. Make ironing day come as soon as possible after washday, that the clothes may not be soiled by lying about, and that they may be aired, mended (if they need it), and put away. Have the ironing table ready, the irons clean and hot, and every- thing you expect to use at hand except the iron, before you take the article to be ironed from the basket. When ready, take the piece to be ironed from the basket, and turn, if it needs it, and place ready for ironing. Then get the iron, rub it quickly, see that it is not too hot, and begin to iron. The iron will need but a stroke or two over a white cloth to show that it is ready for use, if you had it clean when put to heat, and adjusted the fire prop- erly during the heating. Iron muslins on the right side, and prints on the wrong side. Do not have them too dry, or the surface will be rough, instead of smooth and glossy. Iron with the threads of the goods, and iron dotted muslins and embroideries on the wrong side. Have the iron as hot as it can be used without scorching for table linens and muslins, but for prints have only a medium heat, as heat injures some colors. Use a heavy iron for plain, straightforward work, as in table linens, sheets, and pillow cases but for gathers, small articles, and ruffles use one which is lighter and less hot. Move the iron rapidly over long, smooth surfaces, but more 60 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. slowly over gathers, etc. Put a good amount of weight on the iron, and do not raise it from the cloth, but move it quickly and quietly over the surface to be smoothed. When a wrinkle is made in ironing, dampen it again in that place with a wet cloth and smooth out. Be careful not to crush the other parts as the article is moved about or another part ironed. Always iron in a good light, to avoid scorching the goods, and never set the iron, for an instant, on the ironing sheet. If you have been so unfortunate as to scorch something, put several thick- nesses of white cloth under the stain, and wash with a white cloth and clean water, moving the pad as it be- comes discolored by absorption, and, when ready, iron the spot again under a thin white cloth. Ironing should be done rapidly, otherwise much time is spent in chan- ging irons, and the fabric dries out too much before it is finished. Things must be stretched into shape while damp, and ironed into position. This is especially true of dress skirts. How often are they seen long here and short there, when improperly done. The ironing of linen skirts is especially tedious, as each part must be stretched to the proper length, and ironed a little at a time, the meas- ure of the length in each part having been taken before the skirt was wet. In ironing an ordinary skirt, no stretching is necessary more than to make smooth, if the ironer is careful always to follow the thread of the warp and to use a heavy iron, thus avoiding stretching bias parts out of shape. When ironing a skirt with ruffles, iron the low- est one first, and turn that back while ironing the others. To avoid a wrinkled appearance, all bands, hems, and seams should be ironed until dry. Iron around buttons, never over them, as this will break or mar them, and is apt to wrinkle the goods. Be careful not to mash hooks with the iron. All articles should be hung on the rack Ironing. 61 that they may be thoroughly dried before putting away, and should remain there until mended. Do not iron folds in the goods except where necessary, as the creases often mar the appearance and cause the threads to break sooner. Almost all things look better and stay clean longer without folds, but must be folded some to make convenient for laying away. As far as possible, fold so that no part is crushed, keep all tapes, etc., out of sight, and let the trimmings show as much as possible without affecting the general plan. Let the garment, when folded, be pleasing in general appearance, and of a size to fit the space for keeping it. To Fold Napkins. To Fold Table Linens. To Iron Table Linens. Prepare the table in the same manner as directed for ironing in general. Take the tablecloth from the basket, where it has lain over night, or for several hours until 62 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. thoroughly dampened, and stretch. In stretching a ta- blecloth for ironing, two persons are necessary. Each should take an 'end of the cloth, and see that the selvage edges are even, and then stretch the cloth until the two hems are exactly even the entire width, when the cloth is folded in the center lengthwise. This is done by putting a hand on each edge at the selvage, and gently stretching the threads, taking the fullness up in the hands as you proceed to the center. Have the table ready, and everything needed at hand. Put a clean table against the ironing table, on the side opposite the ironer. Unroll a portion of the tablecloth at the end, lay smoothly on the table, and with a heavy, clean iron press hard on the right side, keeping the edges straight, and iron until nearly dry, but do not delay long enough to make entirely so, else the other side will get too dry. Proceed to the center, then turn the cloth around, so that it will lie on the extra table, and iron again to the center. If the cloth is kept perfectly straight as ironed, there will be no fullness when the center is reached. If there is fullness, stretch and iron it out before begin- ning to iron the second half of cloth. When one side is ironed, turn the cloth over and iron the other side in the same way, and then iron the under side again, and so proceed until the cloth is dry. Table linen must be ironed dry in order to have it look well, and to prevent mussing when laid away. The cloth is folded length- wise, and, if desired, another fold may be ironed in at the center when doubled evenly by putting the two ends together, but no more folds should be ironed. Sim- ply fold the cloth and lay away. If the cloth is to be rolled, no second fold should be made, but, when the cloth has been ironed on both sides until smooth and dry, it should be rolled on a roller made for the purpose, or Ironing. 63 on a roll made from paper. To make a paper roll, one should use sheets of paper which will make a roll at least three inches longer than the width of the doubled cloth, and three inches in diameter. Roll the paper just moderately tight, as the cloth rolls easier if the pad is not too hard. To roll a cloth, lay the paper roll on the end of the cloth next you on the table, see that it is even, and roll a little, smoothing with the iron before the roll, frequently lifting the cloth as rolled, to avoid undue fullness and have straight when finished. To Iron Napkins. Napkins, like table linens, must be ironed very damp. Take the roll of napkins from the basket, remove one napkin and lay the rest in the basket again. Fold the selvage edges of the napkin together and stretch until perfectly straight. Spread out on the table, and with a heavy, hot iron press first on the right side, then on the wrong, until perfectly smooth, then double and see that the edges are straight, and iron a fold in the cen- ter, put the two hems together and iron another fold in, or, simply double without creasing after the first fold. The fewer creases there are, the handsomer the napkin appears when used. Napkins may be ironed as doubled when stretched, the same as tablecloths are ironed. To Iron Fringed Napkins. Fringed napkins, towels, etc., must have the fringe straightened and disentangled as much as possible before beginning to iron the article, as it is unmanageable when dry. After straightening as much as possible, lay on the table, and brush or comb until straight, and trim off even with the scissors. Unless the fringe is very much matted, a stiff brush is better than a comb. When the fringe is done, dampen the other part of the article 64 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. again if too dry, and iron on the right side. When there are monograms on tablecloths or napkins, they should be ironed on a soft covering same as doilies, and the monogram itself ironed on the wron^ side. Linens with monograms should be folded with the monogram out. Drawn work in linen requires special attention, as this part tends to shrink more than that on either side of it. See that the edge of the cloth is straight with the edge of the table, then gently but persistently stretch and iron to its original form by stretching the drawn work from the underside, and persevere, dampening again with a cloth, if necessary, until hem, drawn work, and intervening spaces lie even. To Iron Embroidered Linens, as Doilies, Etc. Add to the covering of the ironing table some soft, flexible material, as new Canton flannel, and over this put a white covering of not very coarse material, be- cause, if the covering is coarse, the prints of the threads will be seen on the linen when ironed. See that the coverings are smooth, tight drawn, and well secured. The table should be prepared as soon as the doilies are all rolled, for they do not need to lie long. When ready to iron them, use a heavy, moderately hot iron, and press hard, ironing the doily on the wrong side, and always with the threads of the linen. Iron from edge to edge, if the doily is a square one, having the hem parallel with the edge of the table, and manipulat- ing the drawn work as directed in ironing table linens. Press with the hands until the doily is straight, then iron, pushing the iron from you when possible. Iron- ing with threads and pushing the iron from you will keep the doily straight, and ironing on the wrong side over a soft padding will make the pattern stand out. In ironing round or oval pieces, iron from the center out Ironing. 65 each time, carefully following the line of the threads, and being certain that no appearance of fullness is given and that no creases are made. Pieces having lace edges should have the linen portion ironed first, and the lace is then ironed on the wrong side, with the reversed iron, carefully, to keep it in its original size, and avoid stretch- ing in points. Where the center has open work or drawn work, stretch with the fingers gently until of the original size, then carefully iron it so. All such things must be ironed until dry, and left without folds. Toilet covers and sideboard cloths should be ironed straight and smooth by applying the above rules, and either folded lightly and laid away, or rolled. They lie much smoother and look better without folds in them. To Iron a Petticoat. A petticoat may be dried before starching, if desired. In this case have the starch a little thinner than for a wet skirt. Starch the trimmed part, and hang the skirt out a short time before sprinkling the upper part, and fold when the starched part is the right dampness for ironing. Pin papers so they will not be displaced, and lay them on the floor under the ironing board. If the trimming is embroidery, see that the ironing sheet is clean, and over this pin a strip of cotton felt, or some- thing soft, and a strip of muslin over this. Put the skirt on the board wrong side out with the band at the left. Let it fall loosely and lie on the papers on the floor. If there is a plain strip at the bottom of the skirt, it should be ironed on the right side and before the skirt is put on the board. After putting the skirt on the board, iron the bottom rufile first, and turn it back, and iron the next, un- til all are ironed. Iron the embroidery, stretching each point with the hands, and ironing each portion on the wrong side until dry. Tucks should be stretched until 06 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. straight and ironed until dry, passing the iron over a few tucks at a time. In ironing tucks, if in a ruffle, one must follow the line of the tucks and the hem, but, if the tucks are on the skirt proper, they can be more easily done and be made to look bet- ter by stretching well and then ironing across the 'tucks from top to bottom. In either case iron only a small portion at once, and iron it until dry before leav- ing it. In ironing a plain ruffle, iron straight with the threads and right up into the gathers; iron the head- ings and any thick parts until dry. If the skirt is trimmed with lace, pull the trimmings out with the fingers, iron the ruffle on the right side in order to gloss it, and, when done, iron the lace on the wrong side that the pattern may stand out. If there is inser- tion, pull it straight carefully, and iron both it and the plain part until smooth and dry. In all cases where in- sertion and tucks occur together, iron insertion and tucks with their length, a little at a time. When the trimming is ironed, turn the petticoat right side out, and remove the extra coverings put on the board for the embroidery, put the skirt on the board in the same way, and iron as long a strip as you can each time with the length of the skirt, keeping it smooth near the trim- ming by giving a few strokes across the board if neces- sary. Iron well up into the gathers when the top of the skirt is reached. Remove from the board, and iron the band until dry. When done hang on the rack until per- fectly dry before putting the garment away. If the plain part of the skirt becomes too dry during the iron- ing, dampen with a wet cloth and iron again. To Iron a Corset Cover. First iron the trimmings according to directions given in i%ning a petticoat, then iron neckband and arm- Ironing. 67 holes or sleevelets until dry. Then place the garment on the table with the neck at the left. Use an iron of medium weight, begin at the bottom, being careful about the buttons, and iron only to the first dart, then straight on to the top, keeping the front edge of the garment paral- lel with the edge of the table. Move the garment over, so that the dart is even with the edge of the table, and iron to the next dart. Move this dart over even with the table's edge and iron to the side seam, then finish the front at the top. Iron the back in a similar manner, and the other front in the same way. Iron the buttonhole hem on both sides until dry, and use a small iron on the button side, that the space between the buttons may be made smooth. The object in thus ironing a corset cover is to keep it in good shape. To Iron a Pair of Drawers. First iron the trimmings according to rules already given, then place the drawers on the table with the band next to you, and iron it on both sides until smooth. Iron the tapes, if there are any. Lay the drawers on the table front side up, band at the left. Straighten the leg next to you, and iron the part between the gathers at the top and bottom until smooth, then with a smaller iron work up into the gathers each way, and. when done, iron the portion next the trimmings again. Iron all hems on both sides as you come to them in the work. Pull the garment over within reach, and iron the other leg in the same way, then turn over, and finish in a similar manner. To Iron a Union Suit. Lay the suit on the table, front up, and neck to the left. Iron the trimmings as on page 65, and press the fa- cings as directed below. Iron the part above the waist as a corset cover, and the part below as a pair of drawers, be- 68 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. ing as careful as possible about mussing one part while ironing another. To Iron a Night Dress. Lay it on the table with the neck toward you, and iron the trimmings first, and then iron the yoke and hems or facings on both sides. Fasten the nightdress down the front, and put it on a skirt board, and iron the lower part, or lay on the table with the neck from you, and iron from the bottom up on each side. Fold the two sides evenly together, and lay the garment on the table with the neck at the left, and back towards the ironer. Lay the uppermost sleeve back out of the way, and iron the other, mussing the nightdress as little as possible. Iron the other sleeve in the same way. Turn the nightdress with the neck to the right, to be able to iron the other part of each sleeve most advantageously. To Iron a Chemise. Lay the chemise on the table with the neck toward the right. Pull out lace and embroidery, and iron on the wrong side, unless the lace is attached to a frill, which cannot be smoothed by 'ironfmg on the w'rong iside. When the trimming is ironed, iron the neckband and sleevebands on both sides until smooth and dry. Use a small iron for the inside of sleeves and for gathers. When the upper portion is done, put the chemise on the ironing board, and follow special rules given for ironing a petticoat. If any goffering or crimping is to be done lay the garment on the table for this work. To Iron a Bed Spread. Stretch into shape same as a sheet, press on wrong side with a heavy hot iron, leave folded one-fourth its full size, and hang on the line or clothes horse until thoroughly dry. Thin or light-weight spreads should Ironing. have a very little starch, — not enough to give them the appearance of being starched, but simply a little stiff- ness to give body. To Iron Toilet Towels. Fold evenly through the center lengthwise, and iron on both sides, and fold. If the towel has a fringe, shake this out well, and comb with a clean brush or coarse comb and trim with scissors, before ironing the towel. Iron kitchen towels same as toilet towels. Bath towels, tea towels and dust towels need no ironing. To Iron Sheets. Sheets, like tablecloths, should be stretched into shape by two people. When ready to iron, lay the sheet on the table, with the short fold parallel with the edge of the ironing table, and the hems to the left. Carefully iron both surfaces of this fold, then turn so that the wide hem is outside and iron the narrow hem. If perfectly dry, fold and lay away, but if not dry, hang unfolded and allow to dry. /rjr ^ To Fold Sheets and Pillow Cases. To Iron Pillow Cases. Shake the case well, see that it lies even along the seam, put it on the table with the seam toward you, and the hem to the left. Press the hem on both sides until perfectly smooth, then iron the case from top to bottom 'to Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. on both sides, and fold in the center lengthwise, and then in such folds as will make the case of convenient size for laying away. If there is trimming, whether em- broidery, hemstitch or lace, iron according to the rules already given. To Iron Pillow Shams. Pillow shams should be dipped in thin starch when rinsed. When ready to iron, press the ruffles first, then iron the other parts same as a pillow case, giving special attention to the fronts. Use a small iron in ironing the plain part, to prevent flattening the embroidery as you iron the part near it. Turn the sham over, loosen from the back, and with a heavy iron press the embroidery on the wrong side so that it will stand out well. Smooth the back part near the border, and put a bosom board inside, that the back may be carefully ironed without crushing the front. Dry without folding. To Iron Pocket Handkerchiefs. Have them quite damp. Fold them in the center and stretch into shape, then unfold and iron on both sides. Fold in the center, then fold that in the center, and fold into three or four parts. Do not iron folds into it, but simply make convenient size for laying away. To Iron a Shirt Waist. Iron the wristbands, neckband, and any other stiff starched plaits or bands, first on the right side, then on the wrong side. This will give them the desired smoothness that ironing first on the wrong side would in some cases destroy. Lay the shirt waist on the iron- ing board with the neckband directly in front of the ironer and parallel with the front edge of the table, stretch until smooth, and iron on the right side until partly dry, then on the wrong side, and finish on the Ironing. 71 right side. Proceed in the same manner with wrist- bands. Iron prints on the wrong side, if possible, be- cause it gives them more nearly the appearance of new ind prevents an undesirable gloss. When the neckband and cuffs are finished, lay the waist on the board with the neck at the left hand, and iron the fronts, then the back. It is best to iron both fronts first, because they are often trimmed, 'and will look better and iron easier if not allowed to become dry. The back, if too dry, being plainer, can be dampened with a cloth wrung from warm water. Iron well into the gathers and until dry. Do not iron across the seams but close to them on either side, then press the seams by setting the iron directly on them. To iron the sleeve, fold at the seam and be- gin ironing at the seam side, being careful not to iron across the opposite fold, and thus form a crease. After ironing one side, loosen the two sides by slipping the hand between them, then turn the sleeve over and iron the other side. Now put the hand in the sleeve at the bot- tom and turn it so that the seam lies on the table and the unironed strip at the back or outside of the sleeve lies above it. With a small iron smooth out this por- tion, and, still using a small iron, slip it inside of the* sleeve at the arm's eye, with the point towards the arm's eye, and iron the top of the sleeve in the gathers. If possible, iron the gathered portion at the cuff in the same way. If the shirtwaist has small frills down the front, goffer them last. A waist of thick material needs starch only down the front, and in the collar and wrist bands. To Iron Things Done in Cold Starch. Starch the things as directed, and when ready to iron them take out one piece at a time, and rub off all the starch possible. Have the iron clean and hot, wax and 72 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. wipe off, then run the iron quickly across the collar, first on the wrong side, then on the right, and so continue until dry. Do not set the iron on the fire and use a sec- ond time, as the starch will burn on the iron and mar the work. Iron each piece until perfectly dry. Scrape the iron with a wooden paddle, and rub it in salt until the starch is all off before putting to heat again. To Iron a Lined Waist. A lined waist must usually be ironed on the right side, but if the lining is very thin, and the outside is left loose, from it at the bottom, the waist may be ironed on the wrong side, same as other prints. When the lining and the outside are sewed together, first iron the waist on the wrong side, then the yoke or the waist about the neck and shoulders on the right side. Turn the waist on the board so that the neck lies at the left, and iron the front, using a small, medium hot iron. Iron only a small portion at a time, and lift the iron and set in a new place. Do not slide it over the garment. Iron from the neck towards the under-arm seam as far as possible, then iron that portion under the arm, and work towards the front until that part is finished. Proceed in same manner with the other front, then iron the back, and lastly the sleeves. Iron sleeves as directed in ironing a shirt waist. To Iron a Shirt, Lay the shirt on the ironing table with the neck to- wards the right, and the neckband straight on the table. See that the iron is clean and medium hot, and begin at one end of the band, iron on the right side, pressing hard, to make smooth and straight as the iron passes over it, then iron on the wrong side, and again on the right, until it is perfectly dry. Having finished the Folding. 73 neckband, iron the yoke on each side of the opening in the back. Then double the shirt in the center of back, and iron the remaining part of back of shirt. Now quick- ly iron the wristbands in the same way as the collar. This premilinary work must be done quickly, as the bosom may become too dry for good work. Put the shirt on the table with the neck from you, fasten the collar together, and clamp the bosom in place on the bosom board by tucking the lower part of shirt under it. Begin at the right-hand lower side of bosom, and iron to the center plait, and to the neckband on that side. Press hard, and make every part passed over smooth as soon as the iron leaves it. Iron the left side stretching it horizontally until perfectly straight, and holding at the neck to be certain it is straight and un- wrinkled while pressing it. -The covering on the board for ironing shirts, collars, etc., should be stretched tightly, and should be elastic, rather than hard. Launderers generally use a sheet of rubber similar to rubber belt- ing next to the board, and on this put felt, blanket, or something of the kind, then the ironing sheet on top. Polishing Linens. Polishing is done by pressure and friction. A polish- ing iron does better work after it is worn smooth. Such irons should not be cleaned with brick dust, as it is dif- ficult to remove wholly. Wash clean with soap suds, and wipe dry. Heat well, but not hot enough to burn. Wax and rub well with a cloth. Move the iron over the surface to be polished rapidly, and with as much weight as can be put on the iron. When the polish- ing iron is dirty, too cold, or not waxed, yellow streaks sometimes appear on the edges and higher surfaces of the work. If the work gives a streak of polish and a streak of dull, run a damp cheesecloth quickly over the surface. 74 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. heat, wax, and wipe your iron, ami try again. The iron has probably been too cool, or ironer has not been able to give sufficient pressure and rapidity in the work. Per- fection comes by practice here as well as elsewhere. Col- lars are curled after they are polished. This is done by holding one end of the collar while the other is skillfully pulled through under the iron. Domestic or Dull Finish. In the steam laundries a dull finish is obtained by simply adjusting the machine so that there will not be sufficient pressure and friction to give a polish, or a machine with well padded rolls is used, and run very slowly. To make a domestic finish at home, rub a damp cloth over the highly polished shirt front, or pass it an instant over the steaming teakettle. To Fold a Chemise— Side Fold. To Fold a Chemise. Lay the chemise on the table, front side down, and the neck at the left hand. Fold the shoulder and underarm seams evenly together, having the seams next the fold- er. Now place the left hand on the shoulder, and with the right hand pull the fullness in the skirt toward the Folding. 75 front until there is a straight line from the shoulder tip to the bottom. Fold this in a plait in such a way as to leave the front fold parallel with the line from the shoulder tip to the bottom. Fold the shaped under- arm portion over on the front. The appearance of the chemise is now oblong. Beginning at the bottom, fold three or four times, as desired. To Fold a Chemise— Front Fold. To Fold a Chemise-— Front Fold. Lay chemise on the table, as before, place the hand on the shoulder tip, and pull the fullness towards the 'front. Treat both sides the same, then fold this fullness in a box plait, making the plait distinct at the bottom, and letting it run into the gathers at the top as it will. Now fold the shaped underarm part towards the center, having straight lines from the shoulder tips to the bot- tom. Beginning at the bottom, fold three or four times, as in the side fold. This brings the front trimmed por- tion of the chemise outside. 76 Laundry WorTc for Homes and Schools. To Fold Drawers. To Fold Drawers. Place the two legs evenly together in every part. Fold the shaped part over, so that the garment will pre- sent a straight line from top to bottom, and fold in three or four folds, beginning at the top, and leaving the trimming to show fully. If drawers are gathered into a band at the bottom, plait the uppers to the width of this band before folding. Folding. 77 To Fold a Union Suit, To Fold a Union Snit. Put shoulders together and side seams together, and fold evenly to the bottom. The back is longer than the front, and must be so adjusted that it will lie as smooth as possible. If the legs are gathered into bands at the bottom lay plaits up as far as the arm hole, that the width may be the same in all parts. Lay the suit on the table, buttonhole side up, and fold so that the shaped part will lie over on the under side, and there will be a straight line down the front from top to bottom. Fold the lower part of the leg up on the other part of the garment, so that the edge of the trimmings will He a little below the waist line. Turn the garment over, and fold the waist part back onto the upper part of the leg, letting the trimpiing on the bottom of leg show be- 78 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. low the fold at the waist line. Double the sleeves back, so that the trimming, only, will show. /. ^ To Fold a Corset Cover— Side Fold. To Fold a Corset Cover. There are several ways in which corset covers may be folded, but the simplest ways are usually the best, as they require less time and leave fewer creases when the garment is ready to wear. To make a side fold, put the two fronts evenly together, button hole side out, and pin to keep in place, fold again at the underarm seam, and bring the center back seam even and parallel with the hems in front. Lay flat on the table, button- hole side down, and fold the sides back even with the shoulder tip. Then fold the bottom up on the back, making the fold about one-third the length of the gar- To Fold a Corset Cover— Front Fold, Folding. 79 ment. To fold with a full front, button down the front, and let the hem lie on the back seam and secure with pins. Turn the garment over and fold each side back at the bottom to form a straight line, from the tip of shoulder to bottom of garment, fold the bottom up about one-third the length of back, and turn with the front side up. To Fold a Nightdress— Side Fold. To Fold a Nightdress. Lay the garment on the table folded smoothly just as it was when the sleeves were ironed, and plait in the fullness from the yoke down, and let the outer edge of each side lay over it plain in the last plait. Make the width a little less than from shoulders at armhole to front. Fold the sleeves back and forth on themselves on the button side of the nightdress, until only an inch or two of the lower sleeves show above the trimming. Meas- ure with the eye the length of the trimming in front, and double the nightdress up evenly to that length, be- ginning at the bottom, and letting the folds lie on the button side of the garment, and turn over. 80 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. To Fold a Nightdress— Front Fold. Another way is to fasten the nightdress down the front, and lay it flat on the table, back up. Lay the sleeves back at the shoulder, so that only inserting or tucks, and front trimming, of whatever kind, will show, and fold a plait of same size to bottom of gown. Fold over other plaits in same way, including sleeves and skirt, until the gown is the same size in its entire length as the trimmed part at top, and the sleeves extend over the front little more than the trimmings. Then fold back on itself, beginning at the bottom, until the fold is just the length of the trimmed part, and turn over. Folding. 31 To Fold a Shirt Waist. To Fold a Shirt Waist. Fasten the waist down the front, and fold the sleeves back along the line of the armhole as smoothly as poss- ible, then fold the sleeve in the center of its length, and turn the cuff towards the neck. See that the sleeve lies as smooth as possible, and turn the waist back on it so that the sides will meet and can be pinned in the back, then turn the lower part of waist up on the back about four inches, and pin. The cuffs may be laid far enough up to show at the neck if desired, or they may be left lower. A waist so folded will present a straight front about eight or nine inches in width. 82 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. To Fold a Shirt. To Fold a Shirt. Fold the sleeve over even with a line running across the top of the sleeve and through the armhole at the bottom, and lay it smooth on the back of shirt. See that both sleeves are folded the same, and lay them far enough up towards the neck so that the wristbands will show at the side just below the yoke. Fold each side of the shirt back, doubling on a line even with the edge of the bosom. Make the fold straight from top to bottom and fold the lower part of the sleeve back on this, allowing the cuff to project and show on the front side. Fold the bottom of the skirt up on the back one-third of the way. Then fold again, making the crease at the bottom of the bosom. Pin in place, and turn the shirt over. The Ironing Table. The ironing table should be firm, smooth, and steady, and of a height to suit the ironer. It is easier to work if you are above the iron, so that extra weight can be put on if necessary. The table should be covered with at least two thicknesses of some soft, heavy material, like a woolen blanket. This should be secured under- neath by strings, and the table should be long enough so that it can be left bare about a foot at the ironer's right-hand side. When the blanket or cotton felt is smooth Irons. 83 over the top of the table, and well secured underneath, put on a heavy cotton cloth and secure that, being care- ful to have a perfectly smooth surface. When ready to iron, have the iron stand, the waxed cloth, the wet and dry cloths, with the iron holder, on the bare table at the right of the ironer. No patch or seam must appear on the ironing blanket or sheet on the sur- face over which the iron will pass when at work. This cover must be removed and washed whenever soiled. Skirt Board. A skirt board should be about five feet long, a foot and a half wide at one end, and about six inches at the other end, if but one board is used, otherwise it may be wider at the small end. It is much easier to iron children's clothes if one has a small, neatly covered board over which to fit the yokes of dresses, etc., when the skirts are finished. The skirt board should be cov- ered same as the ironing table, and the small end neatly prepared for children's wearing apparel. Unless a skirt board can be made so that it will stand positively firm, and stay so, better have it without support, and rest it on tables or chairs. Bosom Boards. A bosom board should be about one foot and a half long and a foot wide. This should be covered as direct- ed in ironing shirts. The covers of all ironing boards must be put on smoothly and securely and they must be kept clean. 84 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. Irons. Irons are of several kinds. Flat or sad irons are made of iron, with iron handles attached, but are faced with steel. They hold the heat well, and are probably best for all general work. Irons of six to eight pounds' weight are desirable for strong women, but a child should have a lighter iron. There are patent irons which have a more or less polished surface over the en- tire iron. These are furnished with adjustable wooden handles. Such irons are easier on the hands, and are preferred by some, but do not hold the heat as well as a sad-iron. This variety comes in sets of three irons each, and are not very expensive, though more so than the common sad iron. Another variety is called the "box iron." This iron has a steel-faced shell, into which an adjustable iron slides when heated. One box, or outside piece, and two bolts, or inside pieces, form a set. While the ironer uses one, the other heats, and thus the iron is always clean, so far as dust, ashes, and smoke from the fire are concerned. Box irons are more ex- pensive than common irons, and require care in heating, as they must be hot, but are injured by too great heat. Care of Irons. 85 They are not recommended if economy is desired. An- other style of box iron has a charcoal fire inside, but the fumes of charcoal are unpleasant if one has much iron- ing to do. A gas iron is heated by gas which is conveyed to it through an india rubber tube attached to a gas jet. Polishing irons are of two kinds. One variety has a pol- ished steel surface, and the other a corrugated steel sur- face, but smooth on the exterior, of course. One very heavy sad iron, or a tailor's goose is needed for pressing men's clothes and other such work. Gofifering irons are .used for adjusting the fullness of frills and ruffles. They are long instruments which resemble a curling iron somewhat. Their length should vary for different widths of frills. Fluting irons are so made that the two parts fit together in a way that gives the form of the corrugated iron to the ruffle as it is pressed between the two parts. Heating Irons. Irons may be heated before a bright wood fire, on top of a stove, over a gas flame, a kerosene flame, or by electricity, etc. When set before a wood fire, irons heat well, but require frequent cleaning on account of the dust and ashes which are constantly coming in con- tact with them. They heat very w '". on the top of the kitchen range, but it must be made perfectly clean and free from polish where the irons set. It is well to use an extra covering made for use when heating irons on the range. There are small laundry stoves which are economical to use if one needs a fire for nothing else. They are so arranged that the irons set on the sides and heat with less fuel than is required in a range. The blue flame of the kerosene oil stove or the gasoline stove makes a nice ironing fire for summer. A kerosene stove, like a lamp, must have wicks and burners kept 86 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. perfectly clean, else it will not do good work and will smoke the irons. The iron must be smooth and clean, because any smoke or dirt from the stove defeats the ironer's purpose. Smoke or dirt of any kind that can- not be easily removed by rubbing the iron on a cloth or a paper must be avoided. Gas and electricity give nice, clean irons but are expensive fuels. When heat- ing irons over gas, remove after they have been over the fire a little while, and wipe off the moisture, which will roughen the surface somewhat if allowed to remain, and will also soil the clothes. The same is true of heating irons on gasoline or kerosene stoves. When ironing, rub the iron in salt each time before putting it again on the fire to heat. If you do not attend to this, the starch may burn on the surface of the iron and mar the clothes. Have on the salt board a coarse cloth with shredded wax (either beeswax or white wax) dust- ed lightly between its folds. When the iron is taken from the fire, rub first on a damp cloth, then hurriedly on the wax cloth, then on a clean paper or cloth. This seems much trouble, but better insure success than be compelled to rewash an article because careless about the irons. Care of Irons. When through ironing, do not allow the irons to stand on the stove to cool, as such treatment will make them rough, but set off on the zinc, let stand on end un- til cool, and then put away in a dry place. If they are to be left unused for weeks or months, grease the pol- ished surface with mutton tallow to prevent rusting. When an iron becomes rough from rusting there is nothing which can be done at home to smooth it. When the irons need cleaning, rub the polished surface with bath brick, then wash the entire iron with soapsuds, and Infants' Clothes. 87 wipe dry. When ironing starched things, rub the sides as well as the bottom of the iron, to be sure it is clean before beginning to iron with it. Iron Holders. Iron holders should be made thick enough to protect the hand from the heat of the iron, but not so thick as to be stiff and unwieldy. They should be interlined with some poor heat conducting material, as a piece of thin leather or an old kid glove. They should be made round, that the corners may not touch the iron and burn. The outside cover should be so made that it can be slipped off and washed when dirty. The main part should be made of woolen material. A piece of news- paper folded in proper size and shape for an iron holder is easy on the hand, and sanitary, as it can be burned at the end of each ironing, but it is inconvenient to make a holder every time one wishes to use an iron, and paper is a little stiff for the purpose. Iron Stands. Iron stands are of different kinds and patterns, some being round and some the shape of the iron, some made of iron and some of wire. The essential features of an iron stand are that it stand high enough that the ironing sheet be not scorched, and that it is strong enough not to be mashed down. It should be free from all finish which will stick to the iron, give an unpleasant odor, or mark the clothes. Fluting, Crimping, and Goffering. Fluting and goffering are done with irons made for the purpose. These are described in the remarks on irons. Both fluting and goffering are used on ruffles or embroidery when not put on very full. Crimping is similarly used, and is done with a common iron by 88 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. setting the iron on end, stretching the ruffle to be crimp- ed over the point of the iron, thus crimping a small part at a time. LAUNDERING MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. Babies' Clothes. Whether robes, robe skirts, or little dresses, put to soak in tepid suds, same as rest of clothes, but in a tub alone, and use borax instead of washing soda or washing powders, if something must be used in the water, for the others may irritate the tender skin. When ready to wa^li w' ing them out of the water and wash in a clean sjds, /ubbing with the hands, as the board is apt to tear them. Give special attention to dirty spots, and soap and wash in another suds if necessary before boiling. Starch just enough to iron well, and see that everything is well rinsed, as any soap left in will irri- tate if it touches the body. Leave little shirts, etc., without starch. ' To iron, use the skirt board, and pull out lace and em- broidery. If there is embroidery, put the skirt on the board wrong side out, and iron the embroidery, then turn right side out again. Iron same as directed for ladies' petticoats, if a robe skirt. If a robe dress, iron the skirt portion in the same way. If the waist has become dry while the skirt is being done, dampen with a wet cloth, and iron, ironing embroidery on wrong side and tucks on right, using the small end of skirt board. Use a small iron to reach the places too small for a large one. A small roll of cloth may be used in ironing the sleeves, if the iron cannot be put inside. If there are ruf- fles down the front seams, take the garment off the board and iron these on the table, being careful not to crush the rest of it. Rubber goods used in the nursery should be Silks. 89 washed by spreading on a table and washing with a cloth and soda water, then with a clean cloth. Rinse in clear water, and hang in the air to dry. Boys' Sailor Suits. These are usually made of firm material, and, being rather stiff and close, require the use of a brush as well as the washboard. They are generally improved by boiling if there is no danger of the colors running. Hang in clean place wrong side out, and where they will dry quickly. Starch slightly. They are too thick to need much starch. When' ready to iron, turn the trousers • wrong si'de out, and lay flat on the table, the waist at the left, and the front up. See that the iron is positively clean and hot, but not hot enough to hi.,n the cloth. They must be as damp as table linens should be when ironed. Iron the fronts of the legs quite smooth, but not perfectly dry, and then turn and iron 'the back m the same way. Con- tinue ironing first on one side and then on the other un- til both are smooth and dry. Iro.i bands and hems on both sides, and be sure that they are dry before you leave them. When ready to iron the jacket begin with the collar, and iron the wrong side for same reason as in ironing prints. Next iron the sleeves, first the upper, then the lower part. In ironing the body of the gar- ment, keep the neck at the left, commence with the part nearest you, and iron from top to bottom until finished; then iron the others in same way, and at the last see that it is smooth at shoulders and armholes. Duck Dress Skirts. These must be carefully washed, same as prints, if colored, starched enough to make them hold their shape, and dried quickly in the shade. When ready for iron- ing, they must be well dampened, pulled into shape, and 90 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. well pressed on the wrong side with a heavy iron. They must not be glossed, but may be pressed on the right side under a cloth. It is better to iron before thor- oughly dry, if possible. White Silk. Prepare a suds of tepid rain water and a mild soap. Wash the silk, same as wools, by squeezing between the hands. Use a large basin for the suds, and wash through two or three waters if it is necessary to do this in order to have it clean. When done, rinse thoroughly in several waters and iron as soon as dry enough. First iron under a thin cloth, then iron with the bare iron. Repeated washings in hot water are apt to make silk yellow, and if it is not well rinsed it will be yellow and harsh. When ready to wring, squeeze the silk out, place between towels, and run through the wringer. Never wring with the hands, as this is apt to twist the threads, and may make them slip. If the silk is a tie with lining, baste the lining in place before washing, and, after stretching and fixing, remove the thread be- fore ironing. If the silk is corded or not smooth for any reason, iron wholly under a cloth to prevent glazing. Colored Silks. Colored silks should be soaked in salt water a little before washing, as this may help to prevent the colors running. Never let any silk lie wet, but finish up at once. If it is harsh when done, rinse again in clear water, rub in the hands to soften, and iron. Avoid a hot iron in ironing silks for the same reason as in iron- ing prints, and provide the ironing board with an ex- tra covering as a protection if the colors run. Iron all silks on the wrong side. Laces, 91 Baw Silk. Make a strong suds with a mild soap and rain water. Have the suds tepid, and clean the silk by squeezing and kneading in the water in the same manner as in washing wools. When the silk is clean, rinse in clear water, and hang in a shady place where the wind blows, that it may dry as rapidly as possible. When kiryj enough to iron, take from the line and iron at once. Iron on the wrong side to avoid giving a shiny appear- ance. If such silk is allowed to dry and is afterward sprinkled and folded before ironing, it is apt to show spots after it is ironed. Men's White Ties. Examine them before putting into the water, to see just how they should look when ironed. Wash them in a perfectly clean water, and put out to dry. When the starch is made, starch the ties, and have the starch a little thicker than for ordinary muslins. Dampen the tie pretty damp, and, when ready to iron, pull out straight with the fingers, and double evenly with the seam at one edge. Iron from one end to the other on the right side until the tie is nearly dry. Turn over and fold the top of the tie down to make a smooth edge, and press with the iron until it lies smooth. Turn the other side or edge over in same way, and press into place. Then turn the ends in such a way as to mala? points of proper size, and shape and iron into place. Fold and tie a string about the center, and lay the tie away. Laces. To clean lace, put into a strong suds made with castile soap and rain water, and set in a sunny window a few hours. Then knead and squeeze until clean, rinse well, stiffen slightly with rice starch, and pin down to 92 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. dry. Lace handkerchiefs are nicest washed in this way, and pressed out smooth on a clean window pane to dry, in- stead of ironing. If lace is much soiled, add borax to the water in which it is soaked. Allow one teaspoonful of borax to a quart of water. If, after the above .. treat- ment, the lace has a soiled appearance, prepare another suds in the same manner as before, and in addition to the borax add one teaspoonful of turpentine. Let soak half an hour, then boil fifteen minutes in this same water, but put the lace in a cheesecloth bag. If the perspira*- tion stains still remain, bleach in sun and dew. Lace, should never be twisted in any way during the manipu- lation. Cream or ecru lace may be given the desired tint by using tinted starch, or by using in the starch coffee, tea, etc., as directed in colored starching. Lace must on no account be made stiff, but should be slight- ly stiffened, as new lace is. It is sometimes more con- venient to stiffen by dipping in water in which a little sugar has been dissolved (use a square of cut sugar to half a cup of water), or to use gum arabic water, but rice starch is best for general use. When gum arabic is used, dissolve half a teaspoonful in a cup of boiling water, and dip the dry lace in this. There are cases where lace needs ironing. In this case, pull each point out with the fingers, and roll the lace up smoothly, and, when ready, unroll a little at a time, and carefully press on the wrong side. When through, take a pin or needle, and pull all the small points into their original foi^i. Some fine laces with heavy patterns have the work brought out more fully by the use of a punching iron. The ironing table should be prepared for laces same as directed for doilies and embroidered linens. Hand-made laces, such as crochet, tatting, etc., should be pinned out, special attention be- Lace Curtains. 93 ing given to each point, and left unironed, or merely pressed a little on the wrong side. Thin, Fine Muslins. Prepare a clean suds, and put the things to soak in it for half an hour. Squeeze and rub gently with the hands only, until perfectly clean and white. Boil or not, as preferred, but, if boiled, they should be put into a bag, to avoid tearing in lifting. Rinse thoroughly, and blue if desired, but use only a very little bluing in the water. Dip in rice starch, and dry just enough to iron smoothly, and, having the irons hot, iron at once, in order to have the very best results. Dotted swiss must be ironed on the wrong side. Make the rice starch for thin muslins as directed on page 53. The exact thickness to use cannot be given, for starches vary in strength. One may buy rice starch, and get part corn or potato starch, and this is less strong than real rice starch. The goods should be the same stiffness as when new. A few trials will tell the strength of the starch that is used. Iron i^erfectly smooth in every part, and hang up to air, and keep hanging straight ; never fold them. The old method was to -clap thin muslins in the hands until dried a little, then iron. Fine Handkerchiefs. Make a strong suds of neutral soap of some kind and rain water. Squeeze and knead in the hands until as clean as possible. In case there is dirt, so that the arti- cle must be rubbed, put it between heavier pieces and rub between the hands. Handkerchiefs are not usually starched, but if starch is desired, rice starch is best. When the articles are ready, boil in clean suds, rinse well, and press out smooth on a clean window pane to dry, or cover the ironing table with a strong, clean 94 Laundry Worh for Homes and Schools. sheet, and stretch and pin the handkerchiefs smooth and straight and leave until dry. Handkerchiefs composed of both lace and fine muslin should have the centers pinned out straight, and while this dries, the lace should be pulled out with the fingers. When dry, unpin, and iron both center and lace wth a cool iron if desired. When the work is properly done, they look better without ironing. Lace Curtains. Take the curtains down, gently shake out the dust, measure length and breadth, and write it down. Then put curtains to soak in a suds prepared same as for white laces, and let soak half an hour or more. Handle gently, and knead and squeeze until the water is dirty, then put into another tub of water prepared in the same way. When cleaned, put into a cheesecloth bag, and place in a clean, tepid suds, and boil a few minutes, remove, rinse the suds out in clear water, and rinse again, using bluing or not, as desired, if they are white, otherwise use a little saffron tea, coffee, or tea in the starch, ac- cording to the tint desired, as directed in laundering laces. Fold each curtain evenly, and wring in the wringer as dry as possible. Dip in the starch and squeeze out, or wring a little in the wringer. Have the frames set at the measures taken, and pin the curtains at each point. When curtains are of the same size, two pairs may as well be pinned down together. If more convenient, have sheets fastened to the carpet, and pin the curtains on these. In any case, they must be measured before wetting, to insure having them straig^ht. If for any reason you cannot stretch them, iron them on the wrong side while still damp enough to smooth out, and make straight as possible. Let all necessary fullness come to the edge, as it will show less there than elsewhere. Curtains, Etc. 95 Ironing them flattens the pattern, and prevents the cur- tains looking as well, it being almost impossible to make them straight. Save the starch water, and, when the curtains are dry, unpin a small portion and examine it, and if it is not as stiff as desired, pin again, and sponge the stretched curtains with the starch water and a clean white cloth and let dry. > ; : ) I ■, » L-~ -I Curtain Stretchers. Curtain stretchers are very desirable, both because the work of pinning curtains to the carpet is tiresome, and because the curtains dry more rapidly when on frames, since the air can pass through them and the frames can be set outside if desired. Very convenient curtain stretch- ers may be purchased. These have small brass hooks for holding the curtains in place when stretched. A home made stretcher which will answer the purpose very well can be easily made by an ingenious boy. Fi;ames like old-time quilting frames, fastened together with wooden pins which fit into holes bored in the si<^e and 96 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. end pieces, thus rendering it possible to lengthen or short- en them to suit different sized curtains, answer the pur- pose. A piece of strong muslin doubled so that the width will be four or five inches should be tacked to the under side of each side and end piece of the frames. The corners are fastened together with safety pins when one is ready to use the frames. When ready to pin the curtains down, adjust the frames to suit their size, fasten the muslin on ends and sides firmly and pin the curtains at each point. Another style of home made curtain stretcher has simply a large frame made and fastened securely at each of the four corners. The whole is then covered with a sheet of cheesecloth well stretched over the frame and tacked underneath. When ready to use it lay the curtains on the cheesecloth and pin each point firmly in place. The frames last described are specially desirable for very delicate curtains which will scarcely bear their own weight. In putting curtains on frames, always place two evenly together and pin the two at once, thus saving time, doing the work equally well, and mak- ing certain that they hang evenly if used together on a window. Sash Curtains. These should be laundered same as dotted muslins. Embroideries. Launder same as fine muslins, and iron same as em- broidered linens. Sunbonnets. Remove the head piece, and wash the bonnet same as prints. Starch all except head piece while wet, but let that dry, and starch same as collars, or dip in cold starch. In any case, iron until perfectly dry. If the head piece is of matting, lay on a board and wash with a brush, rinse Dress Goods. 97 well, and keep in shape while drying. If the sunbonnet cannot be taken apart, iron all the trimmings, straighten- ing with the fingers to make them lie right. Iron em- broidery on wrong side. Have the iron medium hot, and iron the bonnet on the right side, unless corded or made of embroidery. Press hard and iron dry. If it is full and lined, iron lining first. Iron plain ruffles on right side, and be careful not to crush one side while ironing the other parts. Iron the crown same as a hat crown. Iron the muslin frill on right side, and press plaits into place. Goffer the ruffles by putting bonnet on ironing board or corner of table, or, if you have a form, fasten it on that, and goffer each side without crushing the other. Use long- er goffering tongs for wide ruffles, and smaller ones for narrower ones. Sun Hats. Remove the drawstrings from sun hats, and do up same as sunbonnets. If the hat is of corded material, iron on wrong side only. If the hat cannot be readily taken apart, pull the embroidery, out with the fingers, and iron on the wrong side. Straighten the hat rim out, and iron that well on the wrong side if corded ; otherwise, on the right side. Do not have the iron too hot, as you must iron slowly, and press hard, and even the gathers as you pro- ceed. After the rim, iron the crown, the lining first. Double in the center, and iron one side at a time. Then iron the outside in the same way. When done, put a cloth (several thicknesses) over a small basin, put the hat on it, dampen the crease, and iron under a cloth. Iron all parts until dry before leaving them. Chintz. Wash same as prints, and dry quickly. When dry, starch rather stiff, iron on the right side, and gloss some. 98 Laundry Work for Homes and Schoots. Chiffon. Chiffon should be carefully washed by squeezing in a good suds made with a mild or neutral soap and rain water. When clean, it should be rinsed well, and doubled evenly and smooth and put through the wringer. Lay on a towel, and smooth with the hands, and when dried a little, iron on the right side. Flannelettes. Wash and do up same as flannels, and, after ironing, brush the outside well with a stiff brush, to raise the nap as much as possible. Smocking^. Where a wash garment has smocking on it, iron the other portions first, then have some one hold a moderate- ly hot iron bottom upward while another person holds the damp smocked portion of the garment firmly over it, mov- ing it slowly over the surface of the iron until dry. If there is a heading, first iron it with a small iron. Chamoii Leather. Wash same as wool goods, except rub well. Pull into shape as it dries, and rub to keep it soft. CLEANING MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. Dress Goods. Delaines may be washed in rain water, by making a tepid suds with a neutral soap, squeezing to remove the dirt, and drying sufficiently for ironing, at once, in wind and shade. They should be ironed with a rather cool iron and on the wrong side. It is better, if the colors are delicate, to put borax in the water and use no soap. Black Dress Goods. Make a strong decoction with soap bark and rain water, steeping same as tea; use with the tea strained Setting Colors. $9 from the bark, a sufficient amount of soft water to wash the goods well, then knead and squeeze them until clean and rinse in rain water, let dry just enough for ironing, and press on the wrong side. Potato water may be used instead of bark tea. To prepare the potato water, wash, pare, and grate three large potatoes for every gal- lon of rain water used in the washing. Wash the grated potato in the hands and strain through cheese cloth. Let the starch settle and pour the water off. Add more wa- ter and let settle. Repeat three times, and use all this wa- ter for washing the black goods, and dry the starch, and use when needed in the laundry work. Crepe. Crepe should be cleaned same as black silk, and stretched into shape while drying. It looks better un- ironed. Black Silk. Cover a table with clean oil cloth. Lay the silk on this, a single thickness at a time, and sponge well with clear coffee. Lay between dry cloths and in a short time iron on the wrong side. A little borax or ammonia may be used in the water, but only a little, and the silk must be sponged with clear coffee afterwards. Black Lace. If it is merely desired to stiffen black lace, dip in sweet milk, and iron under a black cloth. To clean it, shake out all dust possible, then squeeze and punch in strong tea. To make the tea, use one teaspoonful of black tea (generous) to a cup of water, and steep ten min- utes. Rinse in tea in same way. To the rinsing tea add a teaspoonful of gum arabic and let stand until dissolved. Wring the lace dry as possible in the wringer, pull out, and iron between papers. ofC. 100 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. Another way is as follows: Put together one ounce each of camphor, borax, alcohol, and ammonia. Put one-third of a cup of this mixture into two-thirds of a cup of water, and squeeze the lace in it until clean, then rinse in rain water, stiffen with milk, and pin out straight. May clean in black coffee and ammonia also, but it should be rinsed in clear coffee afterwards if ammonia is used. SETTING AND BRIGHTENING COLORS. To Set Lavender Colors. For delicate colors, such as lavender, dissolve one ounce of crude sugar of lead in a gallon of water. Soak goods in this from one to three hours before washing. Repeat this each time the article is washed. Do not let lie before rinsing and dry quickly, or it will run still. 1^ Set Blacks, Pinks, etc. To set blacks, pinks, and reds, soak half an hour or more in a strong solution of salt and water, and rinse in clear water before washing. Repeat this each time the article is washed, and rinse and dry without delay. To Brighten Blues. To brighten blues, soak, after washing and rinsing, in water slightly acidulated with vinegar, or rinse in weak alum water, or rinse in very strong bluing water. To Set Weak Colors. A little ox gall in the wash water will aid in keeping questionable colors bright. SPONGING AND PRESSING CLOTH. Lay cloth to be sponged on a table, being sure that it is perfectly smooth. Cover all over with a muslin cloth wrung from hot water. Roll on a stick carefully, allow- ing no folds in either goods or, muslin. Lay away for Cleaning With Chemicals. lOi one hour. Press on wrong side with hot iron on a per- fectly smooth ironing table. Never rub iron across goods, but always with the threads. To press seams in heavy cloth, wring cloth from hot water, lay on seam, rub iron over, remove cloth, and press until dry by setting the iron on the seam, pressing, then lifting the iron to press the next section, never moving the iron along the seam. DIRECTIONS FOR USING CHEMICALS IN CLEANING CLOTHES. Never use a cleaning fluid about a fire or lamp, as al- most all such things are very volatile, and there is danger of explosion. Make a brush for cleaning things which require much rubbing, as coat collars, etc., by rolling up very closely a piece of extremely heavy cloth, about four inches wide, and long enough to make the roll nearly an inch in diame- ter.^ Always try the cleaning fluid on a scrap before ap- plying to a garment, as it may injure the color. A cleaning fluid may be made of equal parts of ether, ammonia, and alcohol. Mix in a bottle, keep corked closely, and use on spots in dress and other materials. Try it on a seam on the wrong side, to be sure that the color is not affected by the fluid, then wet a large space, and rub the spots with a white cloth, working from out- side to center of the soiled portion, to prevent the appear- ance of a soiled circle above where the spot was. To Clean Carpets with Sea Foam. Make a preparation as follows: Dissolve one pound of finely-cut castile soap in four quarts of hot water, and add one cup of powdered borax, eight ounces of am- monia, two ounces of ether, two ounces of glvcerine, and two ounces of alcohol. Dissolve the borax in one quart of boiling water, add the glycerine, and stir well. When 102 Laundry Work for Homes and Schools. just tepid, add the rest of the ingredients, and cork tight. When using, rub the spots with a stiff brush dipped in the solution or, in the absence of a brush, take a corn cob. First wet a space about the spot with the solution to pre- vent making a dirty ring, and rub from outside to cen- ter, washing as thoroughly as possible. To Clean with Flour or Meal. Delicate articles, as wool shawls, window curtains, etc., are sometimes cleaned by rubbing in corn meal or flour, and shaking out all possible, and airing before putting away. There is one objection to this practice. It is next to impossible to remove all the meal, etc., and insects are apt to appear. To Clean with Magnesia, Etc. Window curtains and laces may be cleaned, when not too much soiled, by dampening magnesia with camphor, and spreading it over a portion of the surface equal to half the size of the curtain, then laying the other half on this, and rolling up. Let lie several hours, or over night, rub gently between the hands, and shake out. If it is not clean spread camphored magnesia over, and roll up again. To Clean with Ox Gall. Ox gall (prepared) is very valuable for cleaning deli- cate colored fabrics and is added to the wash water. To Clean with Fuller's Earth, French Chalk, Etc. Fuller's earth is sprinkled over the soiled parts, and left until the stain is removed. It is often moistened with tur- pentine, or some such thing. Care must be exercised, else the color may be removed by the turpentine. It is usually better, in colored articles, to use the fuller's earth dry, and roll up and let lie several days to absorb the grease and release the dust particles. French chalk, powdered and Cleaning 103 mixed with water to form a paste, spread on grease spots and allowed to remain several days, will often serve the purpose. If the first application is not entirely effective, try again. To Remove Grease Spots with Benzine. Dip in benzine, and rub with a clean cloth, making the strokes from the outside towards the center. To Clean with Gasoline. Gasoline will clean fabrics and remove grease spots, but both it and benzine will leave a ring on the goods un- less very carefully used. Better use plenty of gasoline to wet the entire garment. Take outside of the house to use. Mark the soiled spots before wetting, that they may have special attention in the cleaning. When through, squeeze out all the gasoline possible, and hang the gar- ment outside until the gasoline has all evaporated from it. Let the gasoline settle, decant, and cork up to use again. Benzine can be used and preserved in the same way. MAY 11 ]903