^o .\i 6 • '^f.cP -O . • * * ' O" ,v ■/ o ,1 '^ .' ^0 ^0 ^ o. ,0^ s' V '. "> <*. Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress littp://www.arcliive.org/details/journalofrevjolinOOtayl JOURNAL OF REV. JOHN TAYLOR'S MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE iilol)ai»k ^ BlackHiucr €omttm0 IN \B0% VOL. III. 70 The Rev. John Taylor, the author of the following journal, was a native of Westnekl, Mass. He graduated at Yale College in 1784, and soon after, having engaged in tlie INIinisterial profession, settled in Deerfield. By desire of the Missionary Soc. of Hampshire Co. he made the following Journal in 1802. His health failing him, in 1806, he took a dismission and engaged in agricultural pursuits at Enfield, Conn. He was for several years a member of the legislature of that state, and repeatedly elected speaker of the popular branch. In 1817, he emigrated to Mendon, Monroe Co., N. Y., where he continued to reside until 1832, when he removeil to Blichigan. During his residence in Western New- York and in Michigan, up to the time of his death, he labored unceasingly as a Minister, and such was his tievotion to the interests of the church of which he was a member, his general intelligence and the urbanity of his manners, that he rarely failed to attach firmly to himself as friends those with whom he was brought in contact. He died in Bruce, Macomb Co, Mich., in 1840, aged 78. We are indebted to the politeness of Hon. H. W. Taylor, Judge of the Court of Appeals, for his father's MS., which is now given to the public for the first time. JOUENAL OF THE REV. JOHN TAYLOR, ON A MISSION THROUGH THE MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRY, IN THE YEAR 1802. WiLLiAMSTowN, July 20th, 1802. — I this morning commenced my journey to tlie northern counties in the state of New-York, as a missionary, in compliance with the desire of the Missionary Society in the county of Hampsliire. Rode from Deerfield to this town 40 miles. Weather, extremely uncomfortable from heat. Am not, however, greatly fatigued. Albany, 21s^. — Travelled this day about 40 miles. Found a letter at the Rev^ Elipli* Nott's, directed to me, from the Rev^ Joseph Lyman, Hatfield. Mf Nott being on a journey to Balls- ton Spring, the boxes of books which I expected to find with him were still in the possession of the proprietors of the stage. Was charged for tlie transportation of the books at the rate of a passenger, which was $2.37. Paid, also, 2s. Penny Post, for letters sent by the Post Master to M"" Nott's. The boxes appear to be sound, having sustained uo damage. July 23d. — Tripe's (alias Tribe's) Hill, in the town of Amster- dam, county of Montgomery. After arranging the necessary business respecting the transportation of the boxes of books from Albany to Utica, and having agreed with the stage owners to see them safely delivered at Utica for |4, 1 left the city at 11 o'clock — travelled in the course of the day 37, and now find myself on Missionary Ground. Being considerably fatigued with my joui-ney, and finding myself in a situation in whicli it may be proper to spend the Sabbath, I have concluded to tarry until Monday. 24^/i. — Conf ersed witli a number of intelligent people, and obtained the following information. The extent of this town — Amsterdam — is 11 by 8 miles. It contains one Presbyterian Chh, — vacant. The Rev^ M' Teneyck sometimes officiates in 1 1 08 MISSIONARY TODB THROUGH THE tliis aud the neiglibouring towns. He is a geut. of a good char- acter. There is one reformed Dutch Chh, — vacant. The people are nearly |ths English. There are in this town a few Episco- jiidians. Morals much as m New-England. A very considerable l)roportion of the Dutch people can neither read nor write, but are very fond of hearing preaching, and liave a great respect for pious clergymen. J\''cw broad Jlban, North of Amsterdam, and nearly of the same extent. The greatest proportion of the people Scotch presbyterians, — vacant, — a few seceders. One meeting-house. Tlie character of the people much like tliat of those in Am- sterdam. Jo/mstawn, west of Amsterdam on the Mohawk — extent, 11 by 8 miles. It contains one Scotch Presbyterian congregation, who liave an elegant meeting-house. Simon Hosack, Pastor of the Chh, a gent, of learning and piety, educated at Edinburgh. This is a very respectable congregation. The town contains an Episcopal congregation, who have an elegant stone church with organs. John Urquahart, cui-ate. Congregation not numerous. There is also in this town one reformed Dutch Chh. M"^ Van- horn, an excellent character, pastor. A respectable congrega- tion. Further, tliere is one large presbyterian congregation, — vacant, — the people principally from New-England. Mayfield, north of Johnstown — extent 11 by 8, — vacant. M' Teneyck preaches among them occasionally. Amsterdam, Johnstown, New broad Alban, and Mayfield lie in a scjuare, and were the ancient Cauglmawaga (i. e. cook the kettle.) The ancient and eligant seat of Sir W'" Johnson, com- monly called tlie Old Fort, is in tlie town of Amsterdam. Near the center of this town Ouctanunda Creek empties into the Moliawk — a very fertile and useful stream. On tliis stream and in this town their stands l grist mills, 2 oil mills, one iron forge, and 3 saw mills. The soil in these 4 towns is, a little back from the river, a rich silicious earth — very productive in wheat an(4 grass. Tim- ber, — beach, maple, elm, and hemlock. Conversed with a number of Dutch peojde upon religious suljects — found them extremely ignorant, but thankful for instruction. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1109 July 25tL — Tlie people who live in a circle of about 3 miles convened at tlie liouse of M'' Tared Plumb, in number about 200. Preached in tlie forenoon from the Acts of tlie Apostles, 2 cliap- ter — 37th, 38th, & 39th verses. In the afternoon my text was the 10th verse of the 9th chapter of Ecclesiastes. The appear- ance of the people was agreable. They were very attentive, and the minds of a number appeared to be very much impressed. • When tlie meeting was ended, I made such remarks upon the benevolent designs of the Missionary Society as I tliouglit were proper. Before the people retired, I was urged by a number to visit the north part of the town, in which there is a large body of people; and as it is in the corner of three towns, concerning which I wish to obtain information, I concluded to visit them, and to preach a lecture to-morrow iu the afternoon, and from thence to go on to Utica, I find that I am treated with great respect and kindness. Mly 26th. — ^Preached this afternoon to an audience of about 200 pei-sons, at the house of Esq"" Lawrence E. Van Aulen, in the north part of the town of Amsterdam. The people gave good attention, and I hope received some good impressions. My text was in Gal. 4th ch. 19 th verse. On enquiry, I found that North of Broad Alban there is a town by the name of Northampton, — vacant. It contains 8 or 9 hundred people, who have no preaching except from Metliodists. Wells^s Settlemmt lies N. of Northampton and Mayfield, — Vacant. In this ^quarter there is a considerable number of scattered inhabitants. The utmost extent of inhabitants, North of the River in the county of Montgomery, is 30 or 35 miles. Wells Settlement lies round Lake Pleasant, and near the foot of ranges of low mountains, which extend towards the west. Pa/a^me, west of Johnstown and Mayfield; extent 15 by 12 miles. — A place called Stone Arabia is in this town, and contains one Lutheran Chh, and one Dutch reformed Chli. M' Lubauch is minister of the latter, and M'^ Crotz of the former. 4 miles west of Stone Arabia, iu the same town of Palatine, is a reformed Lutheran chh, to whom M'" Crotz preaches part of the time. 4 miles west of this is a Dutch reformed chh, or presbyterian congregation. The Rev<^ M'" Dozly, a German, pastor. 1110 MISSIONAHY TOUR THROUGH THE Manheim^ the last town in the County of Montgomery,— extent, 6 by 6, — vacant ; not a large congregation.* Su/sbiiryj nortli of Manlu-iui — extent, about G by 8 miles ; contains not far from 17UU souls. One Presbyterian chh, — vacant. The people, it is said are tolerably well united, and wish to settle a minister. Roue tliis day 3G miles. Weather extremely hot and dry. The people in the towns tlii-o' which I have passed ai-e something sickly with tlie dysentary and influenza. Ilcikcmer, Little Falls. The Ali)any stage arrived at the pubUc house wliich I now am at, 1 o'clock last night ; tliro' tlie unac- countable carelessness of the driver, I soon found that the small box ot l)ooks was missing, and to complete my misfortunes and anxiety, I found that, contrary to my directions, tlie boxes had been placed behind the stage from Palatine, and that the bottom of the large box had I'allen out, and that all the books were missing, 4 catechisms only excepted. I instantly informed the stage driver what the property was, and the condition of my agreement with the stage owner at Albany. The fellow appeared to be shocked, and went directly back 3 miles, but found notliing. He agreed with a man to go back at del} break, and he himself this morning has returned down the river, to tind them if possible, and has not yet returned — it is now ten o'clock. The shock has been almost too much for my weak nerves, and I am fearful the property will not all be recovered. This parisli contains six or 7 hundred inhabitants. They have a new meeting-house, but do not improve it. In this place may be found men of various religious sects. At 2 o'clock the stage driver returned, having, Ibrtunately, recovered all the books wliich the large box contained. I accideiitilly fell in company with the Rev"' M"" Sergeants of New-Stockbridge — could have, however, but little time with him. He thinks the l)est missionary ground is between Fort Stanwix and the Oneida. Before I go to Utica I Iiave concluded to visit Fairfield and Norway. About 3 o'clock I left the River, travelled 8 miles, and called on some of the i)riiuipal men in Fairfield, ' and found things respecting religion very discouraging. I ofiered •S«c Gantr&l Remark!. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1111 to tarry and preach the next day — Imt it was thought y' ng people would attend. I find that people are universally in the midst of their harvest, and that it is extremely difficult for them to attend lectures. At night I arrived at Norway, 6 miles Nortli of Fairfield. JVorway, bounded East on Salsbury, west on Canada creek, south on Fairfield. A young gent, by the name of Jolmson, has preached in this town for several Sabbaths ; and the people have hired him for 3 or 4 Sabbaths to come. There is a con siderable congregation of Presbyterians. But it is in this town, as in all those parts. There is a mixture of Baptists — of Methodists — Universalists — and Deists. In the various parts of the town there is preaching by sectarians of almost all kinds, every Sabbath. There is one methodist chh, — numerous ; 2 Baptist chhs.,and part of a 3*^, — no meeting houses. From the south line of the town to the utmost extent of the settlements is about 16 miles. The people almost universally inclined to hear preaching — of their various sects. I have concluded to visit this place, and several other towns in this quarter, near the close of my mission, should I be able to make it convenient. 29*^ . — I this morning left Norway for Utica, and arrived at Utica about 5 o'clock, having travelled 23 miles. I passed thro' a corner of Schuyler, and found the people to be generally baptists — from there I passed into Deerfield upon the Mohawk. In Deerfield the people are baptists, and are vacant. Of the extent and situation of those towns I cannot at present obtain correct information. Utica and Whites-Borrough, about 4 miles apart, form but one Presbyterian congregation, of which M^ Dodd is the minister — a pious and valuable man — ^lie preaches in the 2 parts of the ■ town alternately . There is one baptist chh in Whitesborough — who have a preacher by the name of Parsons. This congregation have a meeting-house ; and the Presbyterians are building one in Whitesborough. There is none in Utica. The boxes of Books have not come on ; and as I cannot with consistency go upon missionary ground again until they arrive, 1112 MISSIO^AKY TOUR THROUGH THE I have concluded to visit M"" Dodd of Whitesborough, and M» Norton of Clinton, 8 miles from the river, to obtain information. I can as yet hear nothing of M"" Taggart. 30"» — This morning I rode to Wliitesborough, and spent some time with the reverend M' D(xld, wlio is a very inteUigent gent. 1 agreed with M' Dodd to ride out a few miles, and supply New- Hai'tford on the Sabbath Afternoon, rode from M' Dodd's to M' Norton's, and spent some time with him. The information I received from that gent, respecting tlie mission business, was that I might probably be of much more use by spending my time principally in 3 or 4 societies, when such might be found as needed help. They think that the objects of the missionary societies are not so well assisted by passing on rapidly — tliere should be time to form an acquaintance with the people, and to inspire their confidence. When societies shall have obtained accurate information of the state of new settlements, it is con- ceived by these gents to be the best and most prudent course to send a man into 2 or 3 towns to spend the whole season, or at least the missionary term. 31** — Returned l)ack from Clinton to Whitesborough, and spent most of the afternoon with M' Dodd, who I find to be a very sensible, judicious man, and a sound Calvinist. Most of the chhs. in this part of the world are on the presbyterian plan. The chh. at Clinton is, however, congregational. M' Norton has a chh. containing 240 members ; and this people is considered to be most harmonious, regular, and pious of any in tlie northern part of the State of New- York. In this town, or rather parish, is an academy, which is in a flourishing state. A M'' Porter, an excellent character, and a preacher, is preceptor. They have one usher, and about GO scliolars. TJiis institution promises fair to be of great service to this part of the country. Piety is very much encouraged in it — and some young gent, have become preachers who have received educations in it. There is in y« town a few Universalists, and one small baptist chh., but not a sufTicient niuuber tohave any iiiflueiico. In the society of Paris, of which Clinton is a pJirt, M'' Steel is pastor; he is said to lie a good, and reputable man — he has a respectable congregation. In Hanover, a society of Paris, M' Bogue is Pastor. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1113 North or N. W. of Paris, is Westmoreland — ^vacant — congrega- tion considerably divided. Sanger sjield lies south — congrega^ tionalist. Sunday Jlugust 1 . — Preached for M'' Dodd at Whitesborough, about 250 persons present; communion day — about 40 members — appearances good. In the afternoon preached at Utica, 4 miles down the river — about 300 persons present. These, Whites- borough and Utica, form but one society. M^ Dodd preaches to them alternately. Most of the members are at the Borough. There is also here a baptist chli — numerous. They have a meeting-house, and a minister. The Presbyterians are now erecting a meeting-house. Utica appears to be a mixed mass of discordant materials. Here may be found people of ten, or 12 different nations, and of almost all religions and sects -, but the greatest part are of no religion. The world is the great object with the body of people. Monday 2a., Utica. The books have not yet arrived from the Little Falls — but will be on the next stage. I have agreed with M"^ Sol. Goodrich to take the charge of them at Utica, — and to deliver them according to my orders. I have not been able to obtain any information of M"" Taggart. Where he is, I know not : he cannot, however, I think, be on the north side of the river. Evening, at F%c^, 11 miles North of Utica. Extent of the town, 6 by 7 — about 130 families — and 800 inhabitants. No meeting-house. The people very much divided. But a small number of Presbyterians. The people are principally baptists and methodists ; but a very few presbyterians. One baptist chh, and one of their members preaches. These baptists appear to be very candid. Of methodists there are about 30 famihes. There has been, and is supposed, an awakening among the meth- odists. They have their quarterly meetings, sacraments, and love-feasts. The last meeting was on the 4th July — had their sacrament in the woods — began their meeting on Saturday morn- ing, and continued until Sunday night. There were 6 preachers present. In this meeting 6 persons feU down — in a manner sim- ilar with the falling down in Kentucky — and after lying 20 or 30 minutes, rose, crying glory to God. Some of y" appeared to 1114 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE be senseless — otliers in great agitation. These persons appear to tlie present time to be very j)ious. "NVlieii I came into this town, I caused the people to be notified to meet at sundown. I then visited a School of about 30 chil- dren — catechised them, gave them good advice, and praied with them. On enquiry, I ibund, tliat they had but few scliool bookSj and no catechisms. Some I found whose parents had no bibles. Having 2 bibles witli me wliich I took out of tlie box at tlie Little Falls, I gave one to Betsy Pike, and another I gave to Es- ter Frizzle. I intend to return to this place, and distribute more books, for I think they are exceedingly needed. Preached in the evening to about 1 00 people, a mixture of Methodists, Baptists and Presbyterians. Text— Acts, 2G"' 28th & 29th. My object was to show the distinction between the almost, and the altogether cliristian. The audience was attentive. At the close,! read the address. They were affected with y« kindness and good wishes of the society. No contribution. Tuesday 3d. Conversed with two of the persons who had been struck down, as mentioned above, the relation they give of their conviction and of their feelings wlien down, and also when they recovered, seems to indicate, something unaccountable. There is a very strong resemblance between the conversion and those which I supose to be genuine — ^j-et there is a great mixture of passion and of sometliing unaccountable. By the account given the people are raised to the highest pitch, and they sink under a violent shock, occasioned by some sudden and imexpectcd and new alarm of tlie preacher, &c. Afternoon, at Trenton, G miles N. east of Floyd — put up wit)-' the Rev'' M"" Fish, a gent, who was once settled in Connectitui Farms in N. Jersey, and is now employed part of the time by the people of this town; and the remainder of the time rides as a missionary — a sensible, judicious man — and appears to be doing great good — and has l)Ut a j>oor reward. Trenton, Wednesday, 4th. — Trenton is 17 miles North of Utica. In this place there is no Chh. formed. A majority of the people are Presbyterians — tlie remainder are baptists, and persons of no religion — a few methodists. It is a part of tlie Holland Patent, and began to be settled in '93. Vroom settle- MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1115 ment is in this town. Visited a school of 50 cliildren, who have a good instructor. Many of the children have no Catechism, and their parents are in some instances unable to get them even necessary school books. M"" Fish tells me that there are 4 fami- nes near him who are destitute of bibles and are poor. Gave an order for 4 bibles, 10 catechisms, 4 of Janeway's Tokens, and 10 of Dodridge's Addresses, and left it in the hands of M^" Tish, who will see that they are disposed of according to the wishes of the Society. I this day was overtaken by M'" Taggart. After obtaining aU the information in our power, we concluded to part for a fortnight, and to meet at Rome. Stuben, Thursday^ 6th. — At Deacon Mitchell's. Visited a number of famihes. In this town there is a chh. of about 30 members. The chh. was formed by M^" Alexander in 1801. They keep up regular meetings on the Sabbath, and are a religious people. There is one Baptish chh — numerous — vacant. | of the inhabitants of this town are Welsh, and they have appointed one of their own number to preach among themselves in their own language. Friday, 6th. — Spent the day in visiting a number of families, and a School of about 35 children. Appointed a communion lecture. Saturday 1th. — Visited various families. Afternoon, preached to an attentive audience. Appearances agreeable. Sunday, 8th. — Communion. Most of the baptists present. Baptised 6 children — had a chh. meeting: S,fter services — and apparently, and I hope effectually, settled an unhappy difficulty which has subsisted in the chh. with one of its members for nearly a year. Appointed a lecture on Monday among the baptists. Monday 9th. — Visited some of the Welsh people. They ap- pear to be a rehgious and regular body, a few excepted. Spent a few moments at the grave of the enterprising Stuben. He lies in a thick Swamp, under a small Hemlock, without a monument. Alas! where is the sensibility of his heirs — or of the Americans? ■ Afternoon — Preached to a very attentive audience — visited a school of 20 children — engaged some books. Tuesday l^th. — Spent the day in visiting — called upon 9 differ- 1116 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE ent families. The people appear to be poor, but very consideratej and I have reason to believe tliere is more piety in Stuben, in proportion to the N" of inhabitants, than in any town on Con- necticut River. I find the schools very destitute of books of all kinds. This people are progressing, however, very rapidly towards good c>rder and good schooling. No meeting-house. The chh. being in want of Books suitable to be read upon the Sabbath, I gave them one volume of the Select Sermons. I tliink it proper to return to this place again. Western, (Eastern Sdllement,) 5 miles from Stubai Jlugustj llth. — Preached in the evening to about 40 people, mostly baptists. This people are in a poor situation as to religion and order ; and I have found no people who need assistance more. They are, a few excepted, extremely ignorant, and the ignorant methodist preachers are leading them into errors and all kinds of disorder. Appointed a lecture to-morrow at 5 o'clock, 2 miles west. Am treated with great kindness. August 12^/ij — Preached to a congregation principally Metho dists — 2 methodist preachers present. Put up with Gen. Floyd, who informs me tliat the methodists are making great strides, and appear to be doing some good as well as much hiu-t. Previous to their meetings the Sabbath was almost wholly disregarded by y® great body of the people, and they were but little removed from a heathenish state ; but that now, whatever disorders tliere may be in their meetings, they appeal- to have become moral in ;in their conduct, and to be impressed in their minds with a sense of Divine things. Gen. Floyd thinks that many of tlie best charactei-s among them, when they have had time to reflect, and when their passions are a little subsided, will fall oil' from this sect, and will become prcsbyterians or congregationalists. At present he tliinks that they ought to be treated with great tenderness. August \^th. — Four miles west of Gen. Floyd's, at Esci*". Wicks's. In the afternofm visited a school of al)out 15 cliildren. They have a deistical instructor, to the great grief of some pious persons. In the evening preached a lecture — hail about 60 hearers. The people conducted witli jn-opricty, and I tlu'nk that if I have at any time made good impressions it was tliis evening. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1117 lith. — In the western part of the town, at Deacon Bartow's. Something fatigued from mucli labor the present week. 15ik Sunday. — Preaclied to a large congregation for this part of the world — between 3 and 400 people present. Had an unusual freedom in preaching. The people were attentive. Here is a congregational clih. of about 18 persons, who meet on the Sabbath, and have 2 or 3 excellent characters — men whose gifts are extraordinary, and who have great knowledge, for common men, in religion, and who have a well-directed zeal for the interests of rehgion. The extent of this town is about 7 by — . IQth. Monday. — Rode 2 miles to the west, after having visited several families, and visited a school of 28 children. This school is under tollerable regulations, but no catachisms. Some of the parents will not suffer their childi-en to be taught the catachism, but in this quarter of y® town there are some excellent families lately moved in, who will doubtless have great influence In the afternoon rode 3 miles west, and visited 2 families. Tuesday 17 th. — Rode to the north 5 miles, and preached a lecture. A considerable collection — very attentive. Gave an order to a Mr. Anderson for 10 catachisms, 10 Addresses, and 4 Tokens for children, to be distributed by him to the most needy. I am now at y^ end of ye northern road in this town. Wednesday 18th. Rode 12 miles. Found Mr. Taggart at Esq"". Hathaway's. This tojvn contains about 1600 inhabitants, much scattered, and of various sects. There is here a chh. of about 16 persons. They sometimes hire candidates for a few Sabbaths. A M»' Night preaches here once in 4 Sabbaths. The chh. is very desirous of having a communion. Thursday 19th. — Preached a preparatory lecture. About 40 persons present. Visited a number of families. Friday 20th. — Made aU necessary arrangements with Mr. Tag- gart. Agreed to set out for the Black River next Monday. Gave Mr. Taggart, who is going to Floyd an order for books which I had promised when there, and directed him to leave it in the care of Esqr. Dier — 3 bibles, 10 Dodridge's, 10 catechisms, 2 Janeway's. Saturday 21st. — Rode out 2 miles to visit a dyhig person — found her very ignorant, but thoughtful. Conversed with M' Colt, and obtained some necessary information respecting my 1118 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE route to the Black River, aiid a paper of introduction to a number of persons in dilTerent places. Siouhiy 22(1. — Preached to a large congregation — people were convened from a considerable distance. Communed — chh very small. It is thought that not more than -]- of the people who live in the village attend pul)lic worship at any time. Tlie people are too proud to be religious. Many of them ai-e people who have become something from nothing. Gave one of Dod Addresses and one of Lothrop's Fast Sermons to Esq"" Hathaway, to be circulated in the neighborhood Gave an order to M*" Taggart for ye people in Floyd — 4 bibles, 10 cat., 10 Addresses, 12 Janeways. Monday 2'3d. — Rode to Camden, 22 miles N. W. of Rome. — Esq'' Hathaway having borrowed one vol. of y® Select Sermons, to peruse upon the Sabbath, I find y* it is left, but expect that Mr Taggart will take it. Camden, Tuesday 2Uh. — The people in this town are said to be all Congregationahsts but 2 — but they have unhappily divided, as there are 2 settlements, and they keep separate meetings upon the Sabbath but 2 miles apart. This people will, however well united at present, very soon, in my opinion, be divided by methodists. The practice of the Methodists is, first to gain over some person in a town to be willing to admit of preaching in his house. Tiiey then appoint lectures once a fortnight regularly for G months, and as there are no preachers in those towns, the people attend during the G months they are as regular as the Congregational or presbyterian clergy ; and they are unwearied in their endeavours to gain the good will of the people. At the end of G months they bring the matter to a close, by taking the names of those who are become, or are now willing to become, Methodists. If tliey have obtained to the No of 30 persons, they appoint a class-leader from among them, who from this time keeps up regular meetings, and is once in 3 or 4 weeks assisted by some who ride the circuit. In tlie first part of their establish- ment, tliey say but very little about sentiments, but they gain the people first, and then iiKUild them to their own will. But I have observed that when they have been of considerable stand- ing, they become disorderly, and the steady good characters MOHAWK AxSID BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1119 leave them, and return back to Congregationalism. Gave an order to Deacon Mathews for one vol. of Select Sermons, one of Doddridge's Addresses, and 10 catecliisms. Visited one school — gave 5 catechisms to the instructress for the use of the children while she is their teacher, and when she leaves the school to give one of them to the child y* shall have made the most progress, and the others to the most needy. Gave an Address to a M"^ Cory and another to a M'^ Curtis. Preached at the house of M' Curtis — about 100 persons pre- sent — very attentive — appearance agreeable. Wednesday 25^A. — Three miles from Curtis's, in another settlement. Visited several families. Afternoon preached to about 150 persons. Gave to different individuals 3 of Dodridges Addresses, 8 Catechisms, one o£ Janeways Tokens. Thursday 26^A.— At No 4, 4 miles to the w^est of No 7. This place is quite new — began to be settled about 2 years since — contains about 40 families, and 140 inhabitants. I found no chh. in this place. But 12 professing members belonging to the chhs. in West Sinsbury, in Paris & in Union in Connecticut. Appointed a lecture to-morrow at 10 o'clock. August 21th.— As those scattering .nembers have for sometime been desirous of forming into a chh. state, I found upon exami- nation, that the way was prepared for it. I accordingly wrote them a confession of Faith and a Covenant, and after examining them as to their vieAvs and objects in forming, and after they had made the confession of faith, and entered into covenant, I declar- ed them to be a regular chh. of Christ, and then led them to a choice of Deacon, and ordained him. This body of Christians appear to be happily united in sentiment, and it promises fair ^ be hereafter a flourishing chh. I gave them one volume " ' the select Sermons, 6 of Dod. Addresses, 3 bibles and 2 / rm regular exercises, by praying, read- ing and preaching. I have seen no people who I tliink stand in more need of the cultivating hand of the Societies than this, unless it be CanuUn. They have no proper books to read upon y« Sabbath, and indeed nothing but a few ordination sermons. Gave an order f ^r one of the select sermons, 2 MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1121 bibles, 6 Dodridge's Addresses, 10 catechisms, and one of the Societies addresses. Saturday the 4th. — ^A little unwell from bad diet. Took phys- ic, and obtained considerable relief. Gave one of Janeways to a family of poor children. Sunday 6th. — Preached in a mill — a dreadful place to preach in. 96 persons present — a small N^ evidently impressed with a sense of their sins. After the congregation were dismissed, a baptist very unexpectedlyarose, and proposed a contribution at the lecture to-morrow, observing that they could not expect the continuance of such priviledges unless they showed a disposition to assist a little, that their poverty was such that they could do but little. Received by contribution by the people in N^ 7, or Adams on Sandy Creek, $2,03 cents after lecture on Monday 6th. JV^ 3, Ith. — Rode from Sandy Creek 13 miles — appointed a lecture to-morrow at 2 o'clock. 8ih. — Preached to a congregation of about 50 persons, mostly women and children. This town is settled in 3 different parts, and there are meetings on the Sabbath in 3 places. They are generally baptists and congregationalists — a considerable number of universalists. Gave 10 catachisms to the children, and one of Janeway's Tokens. Two years since there were but 7 families in the town — there are now 150. 9th. — Rode a mile to the north, to visit a poor sick distressed family. Baptized 5 children, their mother being a member of the chh. at Paris, N. Y. Afternoon, preached at another part of the town — 8 or 10 men present, and about 20 women and children. The people in this town appear to be very thoughtless. Gave 10 catachisms to a M"^ Tuttle to distribute, and 4 catachisms. After lecture rode to N° 4, or Champiori. Having preached 3 times since the Sabbath, I find myself unable to preach again the present week. In N" 1 there are about 30 families which need assistance. In N° 2 there are 70 or 80 families — have meetings on the Sabbath and need assistance, but I could not make it convenient to visit them. Friday 10th — Visited a scliool — the first I have found since I left N° 7 in Camden. This school consists of 25 cliildi-en— liave Vol. III. 71 1123 MISSIONAB.Y TOUa THROUGH THE an excellent instructress, and are in general forwai'd. Gave 5 catuchisms. Tills town contains about 70 families considerably scattered. Here is a chli. of 11 members formed by M'' Bascom. Saturday. — Visited several lamilies. Sunday \2t/i. — Preached to about 200 souls, and an attentive audience. After meeting brought the chli. to a clioice of a Decou, and ordained liira — a Mr. Carter. Received one member to Communion — baptised 5 children. After meeting rode a mile, and bai)tised 6 cljildren whose parents were so poor as not to be able to clothe them decently to appear in tlie congregation. The people are in general congregationalists. There are a few baptists and methodists, who have a little influence. Moiiday 1 Wi. — Rode to N° II , or Lowville — preached a lecture in the evening to 30 persons, and appointed a lectui'e to-morrow in another part of the town, 4 miles to the southeast. Gave to the people 2 addi-esses. Tuesday 14th. — Preached to an audience of GO persons of almost all denominations, and appointed a lecture to tlie N. E. 3^ to-morrow. Tliis town is in a broken state — about lialfif are congregationalists — the remainder are metiiodists and baptists. There is one baptist chh., no congregational chh. Abuut 10 professors congrcgatiouahst, but uune wlio are willing to under- take to perform on the Sabbath, and the people in general attend on the baptists. Wednesday 15"^. — Preached to about CO persons. In this quarter of the town there is evidently an awakening. I con- versed with the people, and instructed them about 2 houi's aftei the service. Thursday IG/A. — Rode to Turin 10 miles. Appointed a lecture on Saturday. Visited several families. Friday, visited a sick man — resttd tlie remainder of the day. Saturday llih. — Preaclied a lecture, — about thirty persons present. Some appeai-ed to be mucli affected. Found after lecture tliat there are a nimiber of professing Christians in this town, and tliat tliey wisli t«j form into a chli. state — presented them with a Confession and Covenant — expect to form them to- morrow and have a Communion, if no ditiiculties arise — con- MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1123 versed with three persons v;hich are not professors, but wish to become such. There are in this town many Methodists and baptists, who are doing great miscliief in dividing ye people. A number of people have been under serious impressions, and stood in great need of assistance. Received from Utica by post a number of books — postage 2s. York money. The Society's comittee I think have made a mistake in sending so many bibles. It is very seldom that a femily is found without one, and if there is, it is generally some deist wiio will not have one in his house. Dodridge's Addresses are greatly needed. Drew an order in behalf of the new chh. in Turin for one volume of Select Sermons, 2 of Janeways Tokens, 5 of Dodridges Addresses, ten catechisms, one fast sermon, and one of Societies Addresses and Instructions. Sunday \Wi. — A large congregation — perhaps 160 — appear- ances agreeable. After service in the forenoon seperated the professors from the congregation — found but 4 males and 2 females — 23 others in town, but are unwell, and could not attend. After reading the confession and covenant, and find them agreeable to all the members — and upon their making the confession of faith and entering into covenant, I declared them to be a regularly organized chh. of Jesus Christ. After meeting in the afternoon, admitted 2 persons into the chh. and baptised 2 children — could have no communion as no wine was to be obtained. Had a chh. meeting and brought them to the choice of a Deacon — Judah Barns was chosen, and upon his acceptance I proceeded to ordain him. A day of great fatigue. This chh. I tlunk will increase and flourish. Deacon is a most excellent ' character and has great influence — ^for 2 or 3 years he has pre- served regular meetings on the Sabbath. The methodist and baptists appear to be a little vexed at y^ above proceedings. It is probable that the formation of a chh. will be the means of cliecking their progress. There are a goodly number of valuable men in this town, the' not professors. Gave 1 bible, 4 Dod., and 8 catechisms to individuals. Monday Wth. — Rode to Leyden — to Boon's Black River Settle- ment 12 miles, and appointed a lecture to be attended this eve- ning. In this settlement there are about 50 ftimilies — much 1124 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE di^•idecl, M"^ Ely preaches to them every 3^1 Sabbath. M"^ Ely is liiivd by tliis and another settlement 5 miles back, where are abuiit 50 raniilies. M'' Ely has Ibrmed a chh. In the evening preached to 40 persons who appeared to be attentive. Gave one Address and 1 catachisni to a poor family. Tuesday. — Rode to Re/nsai 1 i miles. This is a broken society The people are very ignorant and very wicked — about 3 months since a stranger came into tlie town, who appeared to be a pert coxcomb, about 28 years of age, who calls his name Alexander. He soon obtained a school, and in about a fortniglit set up preaching, and he pretends to preach every Sabbath. Who and what lie is they know not — but that he is some notorious villain I believe there is no doubt. Many of the people — especially the wickedest part — are very much attached to him. There is no clih. in town, and but one professor, who belongs to the chh. in Stuben. Wednesday 22d. — Preached a lecture — not more than 25 people present, and a number of those were far from being decent in their behaviour, and it was not in my power to make them feel reproof nor the force of truth. Thursday 23d. — Appointed a lecture to-morrow on Canada Creek, on a corner of tlie Royal grant. Feel considerably ex- hausted from mucli labour. I intended to have visited Stuben once more, but have been too long detained below. When at Stuben I promised some books, and have now drawn an order and sent it to Deacon Milotsed, who will receive and dispose of the books according to my directions — viz. one bible 2 of Jane- way's Tokens, 10 of Dodridge, 20 catachisms, one of y« Society's Addresses, and one fast Sermon. Drew also an order for the same No of books for the people in Remsen, and such of them as I have not disposed of myself I have left to the disposition of a M^ lloit, ye only professing p" in town and an excellent character. 'HUh. — Rode to the Royal Grant, 6 miles — found that in this part of the Town of Norway — tlie jKople are all baptists, and that they had not appointed a lecture. I accordingly passed on 10 miles to another part of the town called Potter's bush. Here I found a clili. of 30 persons, and was received with gladness MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1125 ^5^/^. — Too mudi futigaed to preach. 2tion when I return to them. July 29'* — Left Norway for Utica, about 22 miles to the south- west. In passing out of this town. I saw a daughter of M' Joshua Sweet — appears to be comfortal)ly situated. About 3 miles from the center of Norway, we go down from the uplands, and come upon White Creek, a very useful stream. Here the hills are rugged. We rise from the creek again into uplands — pass on a few miles, and go down upon Canada creek. This is MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1133 a river a little larger than that of Deerfield. After crossing y« river. We begin to rise a mountain which is patent land. We go on 10 miles thro' this mountain, which is the high- est in those parts — but all good passable land. At the foot of this mountain, we enter into a corner of the town of Skyler. From thence we go about 6 miles to the river road — ^pass a few miles in Deerfield, and pass the Mohawk in Utica. This is a very pleasant and beautiful vilage ; but it is filled with a great quantity of people of all nations and religions. I put up at M' Baggs' — saw the lady of the Hon. C. Phelps Esqi" on her way from Canadaigua to Suffield, in a common Dutch waggon, cov- ered with tow cloth. My health is good — something wearied with travelling. Determined to visit Norway, on my return home. ^Qth — From Utica to Whitesborough, is 4 miles — pleasant riding. Whitesborough is not so large and flourishing a place as I expected to find. It is, however, a pleasant village. Dined at D"" Mosley's. In the afternoon rode out 9 miles to Chnton. This is a flourishing place. The land is the best I have seen since I left home, and is the best tilled. The people are princi- pally from Connecticut. On my way to this town, saw Capt. Mitchel, and his daughter who married a Rice. Meeting with Mitchel and his family was a pleasing scene. In all this part of the country there is no waste land ; and indeed the original Whitestown — appears to be the garden of the world. Was treated with the greatest kindness and attention in Capt. Mitch- el's family — ^^vhich, as far as I am able to judge, is in a good situation. His farm is now in the bloom, and its appearance is pleasing. 3 pi — Parted with my good friend Mitchel and his family — returned back to Whitesborough — spent the afternoon very agreeably and profitably with M^' Dodd, the minister. Tlie sit- uation and buildings of Whitesborough may be seen in my rough draught. August l®*^, Sunday. — Preached for M^'Dodd, in a schoolhouse. Audience devout, and attentive — a great mixture of people, as respects nations, and religions. Afternoon at Utica — put up with Lawyer Clark from LelDanon. There is but a handful of people in this [place] who have much 1134 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE regard for preaching, or for any thing but the world. 8 years last spring there were but 2 houses in the present town plot. There is now above 90 — Lodge at Baggs'. Augud 2^. — Started for Floid — rode 11 miles toa Capt. Rice's. Preached in tlie evening. I know not what remarks to make upon the inhabitants of this town — ahalf a dozen excepted, they seem to be the fag-end of man in disorder, and confusion of all kinds. The baptists have some regularity ; but the methodists are producing tlie scenes which are transpiring in Kentucky. Women here methodists, pray in their families instead of y« men — and with such strength of lungs as to be distinctly heard by their neighbors. I had almost as many nations, sects, and religions present to hear me preach, as Peter had on the day of Pentacost. In this town there is an excellent character. Esq"" Dior — he tells me that Clinton has given commissions to 5 men for Justices, in this place — one of whom is a renegade Irisliman, without character and without prayer ; and the other has no bible in his house. In fact, this is a most miserable place, — as to inhabitants. The land is good — too good for sucli inhabitants. 3'^ and !"• . — At Trenton This town is a part of the Holland Patent. Boon's settlement is within the circle of this town. The land is toleral)le — some of it very good — well watered — about 130 voters. — Found on some of as high land as any in the town, rocks and stones containing sea shells petrified into stone, and forming parts of stones. This is another evidence that the Moliawk at the Little Falls was once obstructed by the rocks — and y' the lands in this town were a part of a large lake. Timber — beech, in;i]>le, asli, birch, and bass. 5«>, G", 7"», 8'S 9"», ^- lU'A—SrKtDEN. This patent is on the height of land between y** Mohawk and tlie Black river — some of the headwaters of both are in this town. Standing on a liill, near tlu) centre of the town, we liave an extensive prospect on 3 sides ; — to the N. W.,about35 milts, wc seethe Oneida Lake — south we see y« settlements of New Hartford and Clinton — Clinton Academy is in full view. Wc can here see the tops of the Catskill mountains —S. E. &S. W. tlie tops. Itissaidtliatupon y« tops of y'^ trees Ontario is in sight. Upon this height of land, I fjuud in a number of places sea shells which form constituent .•V — ilL ! lUiLI [ilLUI ' JUUULl UULU baanrUkMsi 1®®2. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1135 parts of rocks and stories. This land is so high that this singular fact cannot be accounted for by supposing tliat the rocks at y^ Little Falls, were once united ; for this land is evidently mucli higher than the mountain at that place. The face of the country is here rougli and uncouth ; something stony — yet no hills so steep as to render any land useless. Between this and Clinton is about 4 miles of low flat land — very rich, and heavy timbered. Unsettled ; and, indeed, but a very little part of this county is settled. A considerable part of y^ lands which are settled, are to hire on lease — the inhabitants have not y^ right of soil. 10$ is the common price for 100 acres annual rent ; but most of these leases are for perpetuity. About 1-3^ of the people in Steuben are Welsh — who are industrious and prudent beyond all example. I am now at y^ house of the first settler who came into the town, Esq"" Siser's. Here I find the grave of the once active and enterprising Steuben. He lies in a swamp, under a Hemlock, with a bier standing over the grave, and a few rough boards nailed to some trees to keep ye cattle off. Alas! what is man! that the great Steuben should be suffered to lie in such a place — and without a decfut mcoiument. A few rods from this swamp, we find the place of his former residence — of which I have taken a rough drawing. This is a very healthful situation. The house faces the south — and there is a gradual descent for about 80 rods, and an opening about 50 rods wide. The seat of this great man was not indeed a palace, nor wliat we should suppose would afford contentment to the mind of an enterprising nobleman: It consists of 2 log houses — one at the end of the other — containing in the whole 3 rooms — unsealed. It is, how^ever, a decent loghouse. The Earou died in a fit of numb palsy. Crops in this tow^n much injured by rust. Winter wheat is open to winter kill — the lands, though high, are very wet. There is, however, some low, rich land, of y^ nature of marsh. The prospect on the height of land in this town is extensive. Western, Wednesday, llth. — In passing from Steuben west, we descend for about 2 miles — and come to a brancli of the Mohawk — and pass a tract of excellent land — heavy timbered. 1136 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE and well watered. In about 2 miles from this Eastern settle- ment in this town, we come to another settlement, in whicli we find Gen. Floyd, one of the signers of Independence, and one of }•* members of Congress during the whole of tlie American war with great britain. He is about 70 years of age — retains in full his powers of mind. He spends the summers in this place, and the winters on his seat on Long Island. He is a gent of immense property: and is now building an elegant seat upon the banks of the Mohawk. It is incredible how tliick this part of the world is settled— and wliat progress is making in opening tlie wilderness and turning it into a fruitful plain. Tlie land in this town is most excellent — crops are rich. The same evil operates here, how- ever, as in many parts of this country — tlie lands are most of them leased. This must necessarily operate to debase the minds and destroy the enterprise of the settlers — altho' the rent is small — only |9 an acre; yet if men do not possess the riglit of soil, they never will nor can feel independent. And what is as great an evil, tliey will always be under the influence of their landlords. Lodged at Gen. Floyd's — on the night of the 12th — Thursday. Friday^ 1 3//i. — Passed on 4 miles to the west to a settlement on the bend of y^ Mohawk — a flat and rich country — land here a black loam; — it is a meadow, and much of it is made ground. Crossed tlie Moliawk, and put up with Esq'' Wicks — treated witli the greatest respect. A woman by the name of Anderson called to see me — she was a bush of Enfield — a M' Wills, originally from Shelburn, called on me. In tliis part of the county may be found all y*^ shades of character, from the most ignorant and abandoned, to the most virtuous and excellent. Society is in a miserable state — it is, however, progressing on towards order. There is a mixture of all sects, which will undoubtedly for a long time retard religious order. In consequence of the impru- dence of yc methodists, and their erroneous sentiments, party spirit in matters of religion, it is to be feared, will soon arise. In this town there is one congregational chh. — small. Saturday, 14'*. — Rode 3 miles to the west. The face of the country level, and excellent — heavy timbered. Inhabitants very MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1137 thick — log-houses may be found in every direction. The people appear to be cheerful, and are aU under the influence of a hope of better times — the happiest situation, I believe that men can be in. Over all the face of this country, may be found in great plenty the petrified sea shells — some in rocks, and some in stones. Timber — is beech and maple, generally ; some ash, and a little bass. Monday, IQ^'K — ^At M"" Lord's — who has 2 sisters with him — all of whom are children of Benjamin Lord of Norwich — and are my cousins. They are comfortably situated — have a good farm, and a good framed house. The west part of Western is in a fine tract of land, and many of the inhabitants are good characters, and persons of some property. Tuesday, Wk — ^At Eli Bush's — in ye Northwest corner of the town. AU his children but one are with him ; and he is in a flourishing situation, and appears to enjoy himself well. A mile and a lialf west is Fish creek, which supplies all this part of tlie world with the best of salmon. The people are not allowed to take them with seins, but stabs. This river is peculiar. Y^ banks, for miles, are almost perpendicular — and are from 50 to 1 50 feet above the water. It is very rapid, and rocky. It arises from a pond in which ye salmon spawn. This part of the town is on high lands; yet ye ascent is so gradual as hardly to be perceivable. We are now in sight of the Oneida lake. The sea shells, petrified into stones, are very th^k on this land. Face of ye country very pleasant. Crops of corn, oats, and grass, equal if not superior to any I have seen. Water pure. It is, in fact, a noble country, and needs nothing but clearing to make it a fruitful garden. However strange it may appear, yet it is a fact, goods of all kinds are cheaper here than in ye county of Hampshire. Salt is 7|6 — or by y® barrel 6|. Rome, Wednesday, 18*'', at Esq"" Hatliaway's. Tliis is a plea- sant village, upon the banks of the Moliawk. The old Fort Stanwix stands about 30 rods from y^ river. It is regularly built : the intreuchment is very deep. In the centre of the fort stands the old block house. This can- better be described by my drawing. Vol. III. 72 1138 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH TUE It is u very great singularity, that tlie waters of the Mohawk and those of Wood Creek, which run iu opposite directions, should here come within a mile of each otiitr — and should admit of a communication Ity water tlmjugh canals. This communica- tion is of incalculable benefit to this part of the world. Produce may be sent both ways. Sunday, after meeting, took tea at Pease's. — He aj)pears to be a man of business, and is gaining property. He has a family, and a sister with liim, who appears to be a very likely person. Camden, Jlugust 23^. — 22 miles N. W. of Rome. This town began to settle about five years since ; contains about 80 families. Some of the land very excellent. Here is pine timber. Soil is a black loam in general. Tl^ere is in this toAvn, which includes six original towJis, some sandy hills, and some oak timber. Tliere is a variety of lands in this town. There are 2 settlements, wliicli have unfortunately separated as to public worship. Good mills on a brancli of Fish creek. I have now got into the wilder- ness indeed ; — tlie openings are small — the people rub hard—p gome of tliera feel a want of the necessaries of life. JV*' 4 — 26''*. — 10 miles .Korthwest of Utica. — For a few miles back the road is intolerable. Here we find Init small openings. There are but 40 families in the town. The first opening made here was in 1800. The land is tolerable, but not tlie best: excellent farms niay, however, be obtained at 3 dols. per acre. The settlers here appear to be an orderly, well disposed people, principally from Connecticut. The first settlers have an exceed- ingly hard time of it for several }ears, unless they have some property beside their land. Water in general good — very well watered. Corn looks good. The ground is a little too moist for wheat at present ; but will be suHiciently dry when the lands become more opened. It is called high land ; it is, however, but a little higher than the general level of tlie country. 9 miles Kortk of Xo. 1. — Kedfield — 9 miles without a house, and nothing but a foot path — land tolerably good, heavy One bushel and \ of Indian corn, it is said, will make a barrel of soap. Put the corn into strong lye, and boil a couple of hours, and it will become soap. MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1139 timbered — beecli, maple, hemlock, bass, and ash — level country. We now come upon Salmon River, abounding in fish of tliis kind, and trout. Redfield began "to be settled a year ago — contains 80 families— lies on Salmon River — a good townslilp — have a minister — it will be a central town. The people all of one sentiment — a good plan for new settlers. Land 3 dolls. Settling very rapidly. Put up with M^. Jolmson, who married a Pomroy. Sept. Isf, 1SU2.— I this morning started from M^. Johnson's — rode 2 miles, and entered into a wilderness of 24 miles without a house. The road was cut out tliis summer — and is a tedious, hilly, rooty, muddy, stumpy, solitary road. Travelled, as I supposed, 12 mils — called at a large hemlock — bent down some friendly maples that my horse might gather the leaves. Enquired of my saddle bags for some dinner — made a comfortable meal. Divided my dinner with my horse ; as he was not accustomed to eating meat, gave him a double portion of bread. After refreshing in this manner, travelled on the other 13 miles, and came upon the south branch of Sandy Creek, about three miles from the Lake. Crossed the river — turned to the east ; in about half a mile came to the old fort ; examined it, and found myself lost in conjectures. Rode 4 miles to M^. Hockley's on the North branch. This is about 4 miles above the junction of the 2 branches — about 4^ miles from Ontario. This is as fine a tract of country as I think I ever saw. It is heavy timbered ; but the land is as rich as land can be. This is a rich country from here to the Black river. Tliis town, and undoubtedly all this country, has been, in some ancient period, thickly inhabited. In many places there are evident marks of houses having stood as tliick as to join each other. The remains of old fire-places built of stones — wells evidently dug and stoned, to a considerable depth ; and the remains of old forts and entrenchments, — are all evidences of this fact. The fort on the south branch is ploughed, and the old fire-places appear to have been about two rods apart, thro'out the whole. The earthenware of a peculiar structure, and of singular materials, is scattered over the ground. The point of a steel sword — 2 edges — about 1 foot ^ long, was found last spring in plougliing in the fort. The fortification is regularly built with 1140 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE 5 sides, and 5 gateways — is about 20 rods from tlie river — upon the N. bank ; 1400 or 1500. rods to the North-East. Near the North branch, is anotlier Fort ; West of wliicli 150 or 20U rods tliere is an intrencliment lately found, half a mile in length, in a straiglit line — :ind also a breastwork. 2^ north of this, is another fort, regularly built, containing about 10 acres. Upon all tliose works the trees are of equal dimensions with tliose around. I measured one and found it 4 feet diameter — and saw some which had iallcn and were almost consumed, wliicli appeared to be of equal dimensions, and which grew upon the higliest parts of the fort. The people frequently find pipes, something in tlie form of German i)ipes. The bottom of the N. branch of the river is a level rock — standing at a little distance it hxjks like ice ; when within a rod and half or 2 rods it is crooked. This rock maybe found all over the country, from 15 to 20 or 30 feet under ground — it is all a limestone, and is tilled witli sea sliells, petrified or cemented, into the solid rock. At the end of the lake there are large marslies,on wliich vegetation is very rapid. Some of this is planted with corn, and produces abundantly : but in consequence of tlieir being so muc]i grass and otlier productions which cannot be gatliered, the people are in the fall of y<^ year liable to a distressing fever — niucli more malignant and dangerous than the common fever and ague. It is tiiis season hitherto healthy — n( lie have the fever, excepting a few who have collected hay ujion the marshes, near tlie mouth of Sandy Creek. In tlic Lake there are large winrows of sand, 5 miles in length, on which there stands, here and there, a pine, and some other small trees, which makes the appearance from the land ver}' picturesque. This town began to settle in '93 is called Mexico, or Ellisburgli; in the town of Mexico — 9 miles square — about 30 families — is rapidly settling — inhabitants very rough in general. An evidence of this c/)untry having been fornarly settled, beyond what lias been mentioiu-d, is tliis— European jirodnclions — and sucli as would be left by an improved j)eople, are found liere — as currants black and red, angelica, plantain, English pursely, iiigh balms, peppermint, and indeed aluK-st everything which is found on Connecticut river. There are in the marsh, hewn and square timbers which hava ♦ MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1141 been dug up many feet from y« suiface, and where this people mow 1 A batteau has also been dug up from a considerable deptli under the surface, lialf a mile from the lake in the marsh. M"" Hackley tells me, that between the Black river and the St. Lawrence, tliere are y® same marks of former settlements as lere. There are forts built in the same form ; and all y^ marks of a society dilferent from that of Indians. Last summer a man in digging a cellar, found a foot under the surface, that he had fallen upon an old colepit. I am told by the people here, that pieces of broken bricks are found in all the lands they plough. Sept. 1*^ — I have this day rode a mile and a half into the woods to examine the remains of another fort ; and I am truly thrown into a wilderness of conjecture. The fort lies upon 2 sides of a small creek, which is about the centre between the N. and S. branches of Sandy creek. It is an irregular fort, but was built with a good deal of art. The ditch is at present in many places, 4 feet below the surface. Standing in the ditch I find that I can just oversee the land in the fort. In one direction it is an hundred rods across ; and on an average, it is about 50 wide. There are a number of gateways. On both sides of y« creek there are most singular walls. Upon the East side there is one redoubt, about 8 rods from one of the gateways. Some parts oi the wall are doubled — or, rather, there is an inner and an outer wall. The ground appears to be very much broken up on the No E. corner — and looks as tho' there had been works within works. Within the walls upon each side of the creek there are wells, or peculiar springs w^hich answered for wells. I am in doubt whether those appearances are such as give suf- ficient evidence that they are the eifects of art. Upon the west side of the creek tlie well is at the corner of y® fort — and upon the top is about 9 rods round. It descends, and is very steep until it comes to a point at the bottom. In the corner of this basin there is a living spring — the water rises and passes again into the ground. A pole may be run down into the spring about 15 feet. Sept. ^^ — At the house of a Rhode Island baptist. Here is a mixture of all the physical and moral evils that can well be conceived of. Here may be found filth of all kinds, stioli as d-js*^, 1142 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE * mud, fleas, bedbugs, guats, rotten meat, aud sour bread; and, as to moral evils, yuu may here find ignorance, self-will, sell-suf- ficiency, ill manners, i»iide, boasting, fanaticism, and witchcraft; and this description, I believe, will apply to all the families in the town, M"" Hackley's excepted. Sept. 3^ — 4 miles ^ to tiie N. East at N^ 7 — A decent, respec- table, industrious people in general — anxious for privileges. Most of the people from Connecticut. Visited a fort 1 ^ miles from the river, N° — This fort was bUilt in y*' same manner with the others. It stands upon y« east side of a marsli, wliicli was evidently once a pond. The wall begins upon the top of the bank, aud is 300 paces round to tlie bank, where it ends. Tlie base of the angle is 120 paces— probably the bank was picketed. It has several gateways. In this trench there is one dead tree, that is almost ready to fall to pieces, which measures 4 A in diameter ; and many trees stand upon y* banks of tliis ditch 4 feet diameter. Tiie land here is the first rate — and in tins town there has been no sickness since they began to settle — except in one or two instances of persons who had been down to the lake in the unliealthy season. The fact is, that all this country is a rich meadow it is made ground for many feet from the surlace. Tliere is now before me a field of corn equal to any I ever saw in Deer- field meadow, tho' dunged — no plougli,or Iiarrow, has ever been on tlie land — nor has it been hoed but twice, and then slightly. Every thing which is put into the ground grows as rank as pos- sible ; but the peoi)le are yet very poor — liaving been on but 2 years. Deer, salmon and trout very plenty. This is 8 miles in a direct line from the lake. Salmon run u]> every freshet, and ye people can easily take tliem with spears. But 3 families in this town the winter before the last. I find by intelligent people in whom I may confide, and who have seen them, that there are 2 other forts in this (juarter. One lies on the forks of the north branch of Sanily creek, 3.^ miles S. East from the fort wliich I examined in this town — about 90 roose, must remain at jtrescut inexplicable enigmas. What has become of tliis people I and why have we no histories of such a nation as must have inhabited this part of the world! Were tliese the works of the ante-diluvians — or is this the land of Nazareth, to which Esdras says the ten tribes travelled, and were an liundred and twenty da}s o'n their journey ? Or is it the Vineland of th6 emigrant Sweeds, who returned to their na- tive country but once 1 or are tliey ye works of Spaniards in searching for gold 1 or was this land inhaliited by the emigrant Mexican, after the Spanisli conquest? That these works were not done by Frencli or English is beyond a doubt, from various reasons too numerous to mention. I am informed that in the Military tract several pieces of stamped coin are found, wliich cannot be read by the ignoront peasants, and which I am fearful will be lost. Probably if a knowledge of those ancient people is ever obtained, it will be derived liom inscriptions on stones or metals, which may ha\ e withstood the rust of time. In passing from N" 7 to N^ 3, we follow a l>rauch of the creek for several miles — or ride in a valley. The liills on each side of the creek are high for tliis part of the world. From the creek, about 20 or 30 rods, tliere is a considerable of an ascent ; when you get to the heighth, tlie land is level, and rich. Sept. 7"» — A"^ 4. — Near a M' Tattle's, where I now am, which is on the heiglit of land. There is a spring, or rather a brook, which empties from a crevice in the rock. The water is jnire, and in quantity is fully sufficient to turn an overshot gristmill. g/A, — This morning I travelled |"»* of a mile to the North in the woods to see the remains of another old fortification. This, appears to be no more than a breastwork : it is, liowever, dug in the same manner witli the forts, and the earth thrown on the inside. The intrenclunent, or Ibrt, crosses to opposite hills, and leaves a point ol land about 3 acres. The fortification is about 90 paces across. The form may be seen by tlie drawing. From N° 1, or Brownsville, there is a constant tradi? by boats carried on with Montreal, Kingston, and Quebec, principally in flour, i)ot and pearl aslies. The voyage is performed as far as Kingston in a day — and from Montreal in about a week. Business 16 opening very fust. V >^ •V ^ ^ V. N s., ^ s ■V S S > 5J ^ ^ '•'"'■ji/i !? 1^ Jti' c s. M ^ IS ^ ^^ s \ * k ^! \ s Si N ^ <5i Ns iS' ^ MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1145 Examined a beaver dam, which contained about 30 acres. The dam is between 20 and 30 rods long — in some places 3 feet higli, and has the appearance of a dike. It is grown over with grass — and is tight where tlie Indians have not opened it. Among many smaller ones, I found one tree fallen by tlie beavers across tlieir dam, measuring 4 feet in circumference ; but in general the trees they cut are from an incli and half to 5 and 6 inches over. • The town of Watertown, or Rutland, has increased rapidly from y® first settlement ; 2 years since there were but 7 families — there are now 150 families — 160 in the train band — are scattered over almost the whole town, of 6 by 9 miles. There are 3 worshiping assemblies on the Sabbath, Qth — Rode 1 mile to the Nortli to visit a poor and distressed family — and baptised 5 clilklren, — the mother being a member of the chh. at Paris, — viz : Joseph, Thomas, Mathus, Hendon, Chancy, Eunice, Loisa, — children of M^ Sol. Tuttle and Sarah his wife. T!iis town is on rather elevated land — the headwaters of several small brandies of Sandy Creek, are found here. Crops look well. Soil, a blask loam. C'inmpio7ij or JYo. 4, 8 miles to the N. East — at Henry Mosley's. Here I am liappy to find old acquaintances, and old fashioned cookery — and tilings comfortable and convenient This town is some part of it on elevated ground. It lies in the great bend of th.e Elack river — 4 miles from the river — good miles; 80 families. Saw Lucy Mosley, from Westfield (and Ben Buck). The people appear to be happy — visited a M*" Peirce, who married a Vanduzen — and also a Capt" Hubbard, all from Middletown, Monday morning. — Capt. Mosley and 5 otliers rode out with me to see a great curiosity, 6 miles from Cliampion, in y*' corner of N" 5. It is a gulf in Deer River. We walked |tiis of a mile from the road, on tlie rocks on the bed of the river. The rocks are limestones, and smooth, with here and there a large crack. The river has worn the rock on an average about 20 feet deep — and bed of the river is about 9 or 10 rods wide. At present tJiere is on each side of the stream about 3 rods of fine walking — when we come to the falls, the most sublime prospect presents 114(J MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE which is conceivable. The ground abo\e has the same appear ance with tlie general furm of the country, and is level. The water passes down into a gulf 155 feet. The top of the gulf from rock to rock is, as near as I could judge, 12 rods; at the bottom, it is on an average 8 or 9. For the first hundred feet the rocks are perpendicular — and then there lies fragments of rocks and stones — so that where the water passes, when it haa come to tlie bottom of tlie fall, it is about 4 rods wide. Upon y« side of y«= place wliere tlie water passes over, M Mosley went to* the edge, and let down a cord, with a stone, when I was at the bottom. The cord hung perpendicular, and I was then 24 feet from the base of the rock. The cord measured 155 by a s<|uare. 15 rods below the falls, the perpendicular rock is about 40 feet higher than where we measured. At the bottom where the water strikes, it is 120 feet wide. Al)Out 25 rods below this, there is a place where it is possible for people to get down; but extremely steep, and something dangerous; but we passed down without injury. At }« bottom of y« river there is y* same rock — which rock extends all over this county; ho^ deep, no one can tell. The rock is a great curiosity; it is all a limestone, and is filled with every kind of sea-shells, petrified. I knocked out of y«= solid rock, 155 I'eet below the surface of the earth, various shells, which may now be seen. This gulf is without any doubt all made from l^^^ of a mile below by the wearing of the water, which makes the curiosity of the shells vastly greater. And, indeed, this whole rock, which is certainly 155 feet deep, and which extends to Sandy Creek — and perhaps 50 or 100 miles round in all dii-ections, made up of sea-shells of every kind, — as cockles, clams, oysters, and a thousand otliers. At Zadock Bush's. I4tfi, — Rode about 2 miles to another gulf upon a small creek in Lowville. The liill is about 70 feet, nmong clay rocks. These rocks are singular. They appear to be laid up in the most exact and curious manner. The stones in some places in courses of 4 feet wide, are an inch, and half inch square at the ends, and may be taken out about 8 inches long, in y* shape of hones — and they are said indeed to be most Pxcellent hones; others are t, 3, and 4 feet wide, and from 6 to 12 inches thick. At the MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVEU COUNTRIES. 1147 bottom of this rock may also be found intermingled with it, sea- shells, 60 feet below the top of y** rock. 16W_At Capt. Clap's. Eode to see y^ high falls of y« Black river. The full is about GO feet, not perpendicular. From the top to the bottom it is an inclined plane of 45 degrees. It is from below a most sublime prospect. These falls may be seen in the drawing. [^Too much defaced to he reproduced.^ 17"* — Rode a mile to see a gulf upon a very small stream. When we come to the highlands, we enter into a valley, or gulf, about on an average 4 rods wdde : the hills from 50 to 140 feet high. We travel about 2 miles and ^ with these appearances ; and then come perpendicular rocks, wliich appear to be laid up like y- most exact hewn stone of different widths, and lengths — and perfectly square. Tliese works become nigher together until they are within 9 feet of each other, both at top and bottom. The gulf, or walls, are here 100 feet perpendicular. We are now 30 rods from the fall, which i§ about 50 feet ; but y« bottom of y® gulf being filled with w^ater, I could proceed no farther. I could look up into this awful place about 10 rods before there was any bend in the gulf— and then it appeared to be a right angle. Those rocks for about tliirteen rods, appear to be laid up with hewn stones, entirely perpendicular, and more perfect than is in the powder of man. Such a place as this bajSles all descrip- tion. The stones are in general from one to 4 feet wide in front, and from 3 to 10 inches thick. From the bottom layers of these perpendicular walls, I knocked off pieces of the stones contain- ing sea-shells of various kinds — and there is every appearance that the whole of those rocks are composed of shells. These are not lime-stones in general ; but of a consistency between clay and flint, and are exceeding hard and thick, I think that the philosopher and the historian will be puzzled to account for those facts. Surely they open a wide field for contemplation, and conjecture. In examining the above gulf, I was happy in having the company and assistance of Major Bush and Capt. Clap. Capt. Clap has been in town 2 or 3 years ; Major Bush is now making preparations to remove his family next winter. Before I saw the country, I wondered that men so happily situated as they were, should remove in this wilderness j but my 1148 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE ' wonder has ceased. The situation is pleasant and the land most excellent. It is a garden ; and raust,wlien opened, and properly tilled, be productive far beyond any of y*" meadows on Connecticut river, except those in Deerfield, which are annually flown. From Turin, we came into Leyden, where Boon made a settlement. Tliis place does not appear to be very flourishing. The people are poor, and too much of ye land is leased. The Americans never can flourish when on leased lands — they have too mucli enterprise to work for others, or to remain tenants — and where tliey are under the necessity of living on sucli lands I find that tliey are greatly depressed in mind, and are losing their animation. From Boon's settlement, 13 miles to Remsen,is a most tedious road. Lands here are not so good as further down the river ; yet tliey are very productive. This is a poor society. GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE BLACK RIVER COUNTRY. The river lies in general very low, compared with the lands. On the S. \V. side tlie road on an average may be 2 or 3 miles from y* river, and most of y« way the land is descending towards it; and in many places too marshy to admit of settlements. The country is liejivy timbered. In some parts you will find townships quite level, and in otliers hilly ; but there is no waste land from hills — wliich are gentle ascents in most places, on a rich, productive soil. It appears to be a white clay, bordering upon a marl mingled with a black loam. In some places you find rotten slate, or rather clay stones. Over all this country sea-shells are found of almost all kinds. The country is well watered ; and the water appears to be good — as good as can be from limestones. People frequently raise tlieir provisions the summer of their settling; if they go on in season, tliey chop down the trees, and get them off as soon as possible; and they sow spring wheat and plant corn. The wheat is sown and dragged; and if there is no blast, they reap from 25 to 35 bushels the acre. Corn is only planted upon the ground without plowing, and is seldom hoed more than once — and then no more is done than to cut up the fire weed: and corn planted and tended in this manner, I havt MOHAWK AND BLACK RIVER COUNTRIES. 1149 measured, which was lli^ in lieight. It, however, does not appear to be so stocky as corn in Deerfield meadows. They tell me it produces from 40 to 70 bushels the acre. It would not answer here, however, to tend corn in tliis manner after y« first year of its being cleared — it would become weedy. Crops of all kinds appear to flourish, though the ground is not half tilled. Poor people have, in general, been the first settlers. They have bouglit farms of al^out 100 acres — have cleared 10 or 20 — built a log-house — and then sold to others, for a sum as much greater than they gave, as to purchase them another 100 acres — and by this means have placed themselves in a short time in a good situation. It is considered liere but a small affair for a man to sell, take his family and some provisions, and go into the woods upon a new farm, erect him a house, and begin anew. Society is here made up of all characters. It is a mixture of everything that can be well conceived of, both as to nations and religions. The great body of tlie inhabitants are, however, from Massachusetts and Connecticut. One thing is peculiar in this wilderness, — every countenance indicates pleasure and satisfaction. The equality of circum- stances cuts oif a great proportion of the evils which render men unhappy in improved societies, and the influence of hope is very apparent. I do not know that I have seen an unhappy person for 90 miles on this river. There is no complaining of hard timesj but every one is cheerful and contented — for they all foresee, that in a few years they will have a great plenty of worldly goods, in a common course of events. JYorway, Sept. 21. — The R»yal grant (or Sir William Johnson's land,) is a tolerably good tract. It lies between the upper and lower Canada creek. It is high land, and is a grazing country. Tlie people in general appear to be destitute of enter- prise; and they still live in their log huts. This remark wiU not apply, however, to the people in Salsbury. From this to Johnstown I met with nothing worthy of remark. From Jolms- town to Fonda's Bush, tlie country has a New-England appear- ance as respects land. The ground is sandy, and is covered with white and pitch pine. From Fonda's Bush to Galway, 10 miles, the country is good, and has as many inliabitants as there 1 1 50 MISSIONARY TOUR THROUGH THE ought to be. From Galway to Nurtluunpton, 18 miles many good iiiims; but there is no hiiul liere like that on Black river and Sandy Creek. Put up with a Dutch deacon — had a dinner of boiled squash, swimming in butter, sweetened a little; and witli tliis mess the family mixed vinegar in great plenty. This is a pour country — too sandy, and dry: and the inliabitants may in general be considered as the fag end of man. Houses misera- ble — fields lie open, without cultivation, and everything appears to be going to ruin. These remarks will [not] apply, however, to all the inhabit- ants. Some aj)pear to .be very inchistriuus men ; and it is surprising what a difference there is between the appearance of (arms that are tilled and such as are neolected. 4 o> ^. .*-^^-i^ .. m.^ -^^^x ;..r^ . .. »°'i.. ■:f^- >-^. ^-o ■a? -<^ V o ■C)'^ 9^ * " . ' J ^/ ^"-^^^ ^^ . LIBRARY OF CONGRESS