^ V % "-0 ■3>^ .^; >^^ % ^^ <^^' ^' f / *•>'% ^t.. "' " -,0 ,v:/. ^> :^l ^^^' '^^c^^..:'^ v.^'^ ..y , . ; -^c. " " ..f ... t-. " " " V ^^."fsm -4^1%., ^^^0^ Hq^ "-'-o s^""- 0^ -""^ -^o .0 ^.v ^.^V ^v K ' A >%% .^^\,'^k^^^^^ ^^^'^''...^>^^ '^^' 0^ o V ,4 q„ -% /'XW/S ^..^ :i^^l& ^^m *;^ s •^^ . A HISTORY OF THE ADTRONDACKS Volume II PAUL SMITH. SR. A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS BY ALFRED L. DONALDSON llludtrated Volume II NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1921 Copyright, 1921, by The Century Co. MAY 27 1921 '^/o ^^ yia CONTENTS XXX John Brown at North Elba 3 XXXI Adirondack Lodge 23 XXXII Keene Valley 29 XXXIII Old Mountain Phelps 53 XXXIV Long Lake (33 XXXV Mitchel Sabattis 81 XXXVI Raquette Lake — Blue Mountain Lake 88 XXXVII Alvah Dunning 105 XXXVIII "Ned Buntline" " US XXXIX Old Military Roads 123 XL Railroads 131 XLI Santa Clara and Brandon in the Lime-light .... 142 XLII Lumbering 150 XLIII The Adirondack League Club 159 XLIV Legislative Control 1(33 Appendices A Indian Grant to Totten and Crossfield . . . .257 B Historical Notes of the Settlement on No. 4, Brown's Tract 260 C The Adirondacks 271 D Editorial from "New York Times" 280 E List of Highest Adirondack Peaks 283 F Heights of the Lesser Adirondack Peaks , . . 283 G Trees of the Adirondacks 284 H A List of Adirondack Mammals 286 I Weather Data — Lake Placid Club 287 J List of Adirondack Birds 291 K Some "Firsts" 296 Bibliography 299 Index 355 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Paul Smith, Sr Frontispiece FACING PAGB "Cone" Flander's House 17 John Brown's Farm 17 Adirondack Lod^fe 32 '^Old Mountain" Phelps 56 Mitchell Sabottis 81 Camp Pine Knot on Raquette Lake 96 Alvah Dunning 113 Placid Village and Mirror Lake in foreground; Lake Placid and White- face Mountain beyond 128 Clear Lake, since re-named Heart Lake 145 View west from above Tahawus (Mt. Marey) 160 MAPS AND DIAGRAMS Organization of the Conservation Department, January 1, 1912 . . . 248 Chart showing the organization of the Conservation Commission, 1915 . 248 Map showing the Watersheds of the Principal Rivers and Resen'oir Sites 249 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS CHAPTER XXX JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA THE great abolitionist John Brown linked his name with the Adirondacks by settling in the Town of North Elba in 1849, and making it his nominal home and head- quarters until the Harper's Ferry raid and his subsequent death in 1859. His now historic farm is about three miles from the village of Lake Placid to-day, but then, of course, there was no village nor promise of one. The surrounding country was a sparsely settled wilderness. Gerrit Smith, the wealthy emancipationist of New York, had inherited vast tracts of land from his father. Some of these were in Essex County and in the Town of North Elba. In 1846 Mr. Smith had thrown open one hundred thousand acres of his wild lands to such colored people, fugitive slaves in particular, as would settle upon small tracts and cultivate them into farms. Considerable land was taken up, but mostly in other parts of the State, for Gerrit Smith's enormous hold- ings lay in over fifty counties. The Adirondack wilderness, for obvious reasons, was the least attractive and least suited to the negro. Its very wildness and remoteness, however, of- fered a certain security from the slave-hunter, and so by 1848 a few families had settled there. Others were later brought to the spot by means of the underground railway, of which North Elba became a sort of side-track station. As a negro colony it was a failure and soon dwindled away. About this time John Browm heard of Gerrit Smith's scheme and the incipient North Elba colony, and it appealed strongly to his sympathies. In 1848 he called on Mr. Smith, offered to take up a farm in the settlement, and help its development 4 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS by guidance and example. Mr. Smith was quick to see the value of such a man and such services, and a deal was soon made. I quote the following from F. B. Sanborn's well-known ''Life and Letters of John Brown," a book in which the minutest details will be found of those outside events which are here briefly summarized: Brown purchased a farm or two, obtained the refusal of others, and in 1848-49, he removed a part of his family from Springfield (Mass.) to North Elba, where they remained much of the time between 1849 and 1864, and where they lived when he was attacking slavery in Kansas, in Missouri, and in Virginia. Besides the other inducements which this rough and bleak region offered him, he considered it a good refuge for his wife and younger children, when he should go on his campaign ; a place where they would not only be safe and inde- pendent, but could live frugally, and both learn and practise those habits of thrifty industry which Brown thought indispensable in the training of children. "When he went there his youngest son, Oliver, was ten years old, and his daughters, Anna and Sarah, were six and three years old. Ellen, his youngest child, was born afterwards. John Brown married twice and had several children by each wife — twenty in all, eight of whom died in infancy. The older boys by the first marriage remained in Ohio when their father moved East, and never lived on the North Elba farm. The scenic beauty surrounding his Adirondack home made a deep appeal to Brown. Lying in the center of a wide plateau, it commanded a panoramic view of distant moun- tains, trenching the horizon. The mountains have always been a symbol of freedom, and their lofty message probably never went straighter home than to the lofty soul of this lone man. Who shall gage the part they played in the meditative pauses that alternated with periods of aggressive action? That it was not negligible there is ample proof, and his grow- ing love for the spot culminated in the desire to be buried there. Browm moved his family and his few household goods to the mountains in an ox-drawn cart. The women and the chat- tels were in the wagon, and the men walked beside it. This cart, built in Ohio, was a huge boxlike affair, hung between JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 5 two enormous wheels nearly five feet in diameter, and having tires four inches wide. One of these wheels, in excellent preservation, may be seen at the Lake Placid Club. Brown also brought to North Elba a herd of very fine Devon cattle, which he exhibited at the annual cattle-show of Essex County. The Annual Report of the Agricultural Society for 1850, said: The appearance upon the grounds of a number of very choice and beautiful Devons, from the herd cff Mr. John Brown, residing in one of our most remote and secluded towns, attracted great attention, and added much to the interest of the fair. The interest and admiration they excited have attracted public attention to the subject, and have already resulted in the introduction of several choice animals into this region. The Browns' first home in North Elba was a little house which they rented from a man called "Cone" Flanders, and in 1920 it was still standing. Brown's eldest daughter Ruth, in one of her letters, writes of it as follows : The little house of Mr. Flanders, which was to be our home, was the second house we came to after crossing the mountain from Keene. It had one good-sized room below, which answered pretty well for kitchen, dining-room, and parlour; also a pantry and two bedrooms; and the chamber furnished space for four beds — so that whenever "a stranger or wayfaring man ' ' entered our gate, he was not turned away.. By the "chamber" was meant the unfinished attic or second stor>'. This small house sheltered a family of nine, one or more colored helpers, and occasional guests. The nine in the family were Mr. and Mrs. Brown, four sons — Owen, "Watson, Salmon, and Oliver — and three daughters, Ruth, Anna, and Sarah. Ruth was the eldest, and soon married Henry Thomp- son of North Elba. The Thompsons were among the earhest settlers in the region. They came from New Hampshire. They were a large family, mostly boys, and owned among them nearly one thousand acres. Two of the brothers were later killed at Harper's Ferry. The gap in the Brown family caused by Ruth's marriage was soon filled by the birth of another daughter Ellen. The Browns lived in the Flanders house for two years, and 6 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS this was the only protracted stay that John Brown made in North Elba. After that he made only short and infrequent visits to his family there. During these two years he devoted himself to the objects which had drawn him to the spot, but there is no doubt that he soon became comanced that Gerrit Smith's dream of founding a negro colony in the mountains was pure chimera. As a matter of fact, of course, the at- tempt to combine an escaped slave with a so-called Adiron- dack farm was about as promising of agricultural results as would be the placing of an Italian lizard on a Norwegian ice- berg. The farms allotted to the negroes consisted of forty acres each, but the natural gregariousness of the race tended to de- feat the purpose of these individual holdings. The darkies be- gan to build their shanties in one place, instead of on their separate grants. Before long about ten families had huddled their houses together down by the brook, not far from where the White Church now stands. The shanties were square, crudely built of logs, with flat roofs, out of which little stove- pipes protruded at varying angles. The last touch of pure negroism was a large but dilapidated red flag that floated above the settlement, bearing the half-humorous, half-pathetic legend "Timbuctoo" — a name that was applied to the whole vicinity for several years. Here occasionally, always over night, new faces appeared and disappeared — poor hunted fugitives seeking the greater safety of the Canadian line. Those who stayed permanently were roused to spasmodic activity by Bro^^^l, who induced them to work for him or some of his scattered neighbors. But, unless directed by him, they did nothing for themselves or for their own land. It is no wonder, therefore, that he became dis- couraged over this particular experiment. It closed, as far as he was concerned, in 1851. In March of that year he moved his family back to Akron, 0., and even took the herd of Devon cattle with him. This step was not solely the result of his disappointments at North Elba. It was taken mainly on account of protracted lawsuits growing out of his failure in the wool business, which required his presence in different parts of the country. It took several JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 7 years to wind up the complications resulting from his Perkins & BrowTi partnership, and it was not till the summer of 1855 that he was free to carry out his desire of taking his family back to North Elba. This time they took possession of a half-finished house — the present memorial building — which Henry Thompson, Ruth Brown's husband, had partially prepared for them on one of the farms Brown had contracted to buy. This house was a very primitive and crudely built affair. It contained but four rooms, and only two of them were plastered. It re- mained in this unfinished condition and in obvious disrepair until after John Bro^vn's death. It was at best a leaky, drafty, cheerless shelter, and would have been considered un- inhabitable by any less inured to hardship and discomfort. John Brown remained only long enough to see his family settled, and the house stocked with a few provisions. He then set out for the Kansas border. He had freed himself from the shackles of business only to embroil himself more completely in the anti-slavery struggle. His life became henceforth that of a roving and restless agitator in a righteous cause. Of his grown sons only Watson, then in his twentieth year, remained with the women folk at North Elba. John Jr., Jason, Ow«n, Oliver, Frederick, and Salmon, with their brother-in-law Henry Thompson, had gone out to Kansas and settled near the little hamlet of Osawatomie. Hei^e the father joined them and soon began playing his conspicuous part in the border skirmishes there. In May, 1856, occurred the '^Pot- tawatomie massacre," and on the thirtieth of the following August occurred the third fight at Osawatomie, which has linked the name of that little place forever with John Brown. It was not a victory, however. With a handful of men he shot into a larger attacking force, and did some damage. But after that he was forced to retreat, and the attackers burnt the vil- lage. In April of 1857 Brown returned once more to North Elba, after an absence of two years. On his way he stopped at Canton, Conn., and took from the family plot there an old tombstone belonging to his grandfather. This cumbersome slab he transported all the way to his Adirondack farm, and 8 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS placed it where he desired his own grave to be — near a huge granite boulder, not far from the house. On one side of the boulder, near the foot of what became his grave, he indicated its location by cutting the letters *' J. B." with his own hands, before starting on his last adventure. On the reverse of the ancestral tombstone he inscribed the epitaph of his son Frederick, as ^'murdered at Osawatomie for his adherence to the cause of freedom/' The face of the slab bears the following inscription: *'In Memory of Cap*" John Brown, who died at New York, Sept. ye 3, 1776, in the 48th year of his Age." Beneath this there later ap- peared: *'John Brown, born May 9, 1800, was executed at Charlestown, Va., Dec. 2, 1859"; and at the very bottom of the slab: ** Oliver Brown, bom Mar. 9, 1839, was killed at Harper's Ferry." Many years la«ter, in October, 1882, the bones of Watson Brown found their final resting-place in the same spot. And later still, as we shall see, the remains of others who fell at Harper's Ferry were placed beside their leader in the North Elba burial plot. In 1886 Colonel Francis L. Lee of Boston took a skilled stone-cutter with him to the Bro\vn farm, and had him cut in large, deep letters ''John Brown, 1859," on the granite boul- der that billows near the grave. The rock was so hard and flinty that it took several days to complete this simple inscrip- tion. After 1857 John Brown's reappearances in North Elba were few and far between. Several times he wrote of having the inclination and the time to come, but of lacking the money. '\\nien the means were available, he usually made the journey by boat to Westport, and there hired a horse, on which he rode the forty miles to his farm. Ono winter, his funds being very low, he attempted the journey on foot, and nearly perished from cold and exhaustion on the way. After that he always used a horse, and kept him till the return trip was made. This animal was something of a curiosity in a settlement which knew only the ox as a beast of burden. The presence of the horse, moreover, announcing as it did the presence of John BrowTi, seemed to heighten the atmosphere of the unusual that surrounded this strange man. The older men knew all about JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 9 Mm, of course, but to the younger generation he was an object of both awe and mystery. His name was vaguely linked for them with far-off deeds of bloodthirstiness, and his sudden comings and goings added the last touch of romance to his austere personality. When he moved his family back to North Elba in 1855, he appears to have raised the necessary money by selling such cattle as he then owned. After that he engaged in no money- making enterprise, and received his support entirely from his anti-slavery friends. In view of this, and the fact that his business failure left him heavily in debt, it is not surprising to leani that he had not paid for the land he had contracted to buy from Gerrit Smith. The money to do this was contributed by some of his friends, who put their names to the following subscription paper in July, 1857 : The family of Captain John Brown, of Osawatomie, have no means of support, owing to the oppression to which he has been subjected in Kansas Territory. It is proposed to put them (his wife and five chil- dren) in possession of the means of supporting themselves, so far as is possible for persons in their situation. One thousand dollars was raised. It was immediately ex- pended by Mr. Sanborn in clearing the title to the Brown and Thompson farms, and deeds were then given to Mrs. Brown and to Mrs. Thompson. When John Brown, who was then in Iowa, heard of this act, he wrote a letter full of gratitude, in which he speaks of being ''comforted with the feeling that my noble-hearted wife and daughters will not be driven either to beg or become a burden to my poor boys, who have nothing but their hands to begin with." The Browns often for long periods had literally not a penny in the house. The girls would pick berries and sell them to their neighbors, with the avowed purpose of securing a little fund to pay the postage on the letters to their father. Colonel Higginson, in writing of a visit to the farm, says he found Mrs. Browm worrying over a large tax that was coming due. It finally developed that the appalling amount was less than ten dollars, but Mrs. Brovm felt quite hopeless of getting such a sum together. The inference is that Colonel Higginson 10 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS advanced it. He also mentions the fact that he found the little colony considered Oliver Brown's widow— a young girl of sixteen — far from destitute, because she had been left five sheep worth two dollars apiece! Such were the monetary conditions at North Elba. It fol- lows that the life of the Browns was austerely frugal. From all accounts they had enough to eat, but their fare was of the simplest. It came from their owm and the neighboring farms, or from occasional supplies that John Brown sent in or brought with him. Ruth, in some of her letters, insists— with a somewhat pathetic touch of womanly pride — that they al- ways had a cloth upon the table. She does not hesitate to admit, however, that she, her mother, and her sisters had only such woolen clothes to wear as they themselves could spin. Despite all their hardships and privations the Browns were a united and contented family. One and all reflected the fa- ther's unselfish idealism, and looked upon the attendant sacri- fices as foreordained for those devoted to a great cause. They shared the spirit of that high puri')Ose and stern intent, whose undercurrent was always setting toward some vague, far-off event, that ultimately came in the half-foolish, half- divine attack at Harper's Ferry. Many of the local details for this chapter were given to me by a friend and neighbor Mr. Thomas Peacock, who was born and bred at North Elba, on a farm adjoining John Brown's. Mr. Peacock played and went to school with the BrowTi children, and saw a good deal of the family. He was a mere boy at the time, of course, but there was something mysterious and apart about these new neighbors that left many distinct impressions on his youthful mind. One of the most vivid and interesting of these was having seen John Brown take his departure from North Elba for the last time. Young Peacock had been taken to the Henry Thompson house by his father, where a few of the leading men in the settlement were gathered. The boy was told to sit quietly in one corner of the room, while his father joined the other men and conversed with them in subdued tones. Occa- sionally one of them would step to the open door and look out, as if expecting another arrival. It was a mild, pleasant eve- JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 11 iiing in June, with the distant mountains fading very slowly into the soft-lipped night. Some time elapsed and the shad- ows had deepened, before the tread of an approaching horse was heard. A few moments later John Brown entered the room. He was greeted very quietly, and, standing, began talking in undertones to the men that gathered about him. The conference did not seem to last more than ten or fifteen minutes, then he shook hands and said a solemn but not linger- ing good-by to each one present. One of the men followed him out of the house and helped him to unhitch his horse and mount. The others stood silently in the doorway, watching their leader turn his horse's head away from his mountain home for the last time. So did the man of struggle start through the long northern twilight for the last, far-off adven- ture of his restless life. The boy who chanced to be a witness of this historic scene, had no inkling, of course, of its larger import, but the memory of it was soon intensified by the tragedy that followed. He remembers that John Brown looked very old to him that night — that he was beginning to stoop and show his years. But he was still a commanding, patriarchal figure, with his stocky, powerful frame, his upright bristling hair, his square white beard, and his shaggily browed gray-blue eyes that glit- tered wildly at times with the consuming fires within. His fifty-nine years had abated none of his vigor when he was roused to action, as the event showed. He was still a man to inspire children with awe, his friends with deference, and his enemies with fear. The exact date of his departure from North Elba is not known. Mr. Villard says: ''It was probably on Thursday, June 16, for two days later, June 18, Brown's diary shows that he was at West Andover, Ohio." ^ He had arrived at his mountain home less than a week before, and he had brought with him rather more supplies than usual. He also showed more than his usual concern about the comfort of his loved ones. Of his parting with them there is no record. But it is not probable that it was more emotional than any other. iJohn Broum; A Biography Fifty Years After, by Oswald Garrison Villard. Houghton Mifflin Co. 1911. P. 401. 12 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS They were people of deep feelings, but of undemonstrative habits. Every parting of the last four years had held a pos- sibility of being the last, and this one held no greater uncer- tainty than previous ones. It is Mr. Peacock ^s impression that Brown had taken final leave of his family before coming to the Thompson house on the night of June 16, 1859. He was executed at Charlestown, Va., on December 2d of the same year. His widow obtained permission to remove the body to North Elba, where, on December 8th, it was for- mally buried in the spot he had chosen. The day was cold and bleak, and notable for the fact that there was no snow upon the ground. The ceremonies were extremely simple. The neighbors came from miles around, but only a few out- siders were there. Among these was the Rev. Joshua Young of Burlington, Vt., who conducted the services, and thereby suddenly became, next to John Brown himself, the most noto- rious and abused man of his day. The simple but at the time heroic Christian act that led to this, was entirely unpremedi- tated. Dr. Young had never met, or even seen, John BrowTi. He had long admired him from a distance, but he was at his funeral by the merest chance. The details of the interesting story, though kno^^m to a few, of course, were never given to the public till shortly be- fore Dr. Young died at his then home in AYinchester, Mass., in 1904. Only two weeks before his death he sent to the *'New England Magazine" the last manuscript he ever prepared for publication. It was an article entitled: ''The Burial of John Brown," and it appeared in the April, 1904, number of the magazine. From this, and some letters of Dr. Young, I offer the following summary of events. First of all, the little- known story of John Brown's last journey to his mountain home will bear retelling. The execution at Charlesto^Ti took place on Friday, Decem- ber 2, 1859. After the body was examined and pronounced dead, it was conveyed under military escort to the station and sent to Harper's Ferry. There it was delivered to the weep- ing widow and a few friends. They proceeded to Philadelphia, where they arrived the fol- lowing day, Saturday, at noon. Here a large crowd— mostly JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 13 negroes — had gathered at and around the station. Some fric- tion had occurred, and trouble was in the air. The mayor and a squad of policemen soon arrived on the scene. An inter- view took place between the mayor and Mr. J. M. McKim, who was one of Mrs. Brown's escort. He wished to remain over in Philadelphia till Monday, to give Mrs. Brown a rest and to have her husband's body embalmed. The mayor said this would be impossible in view of the increasing excitement, which was threatening a riot. The body must proceed on its journey at once. He would see it safely through the city, but could do no more. To do even this he had to resort to trick- ery. There happened to be a long box in the baggage-car that looked like a coffin. This was hastily covered and openly placed on a wagon. The crowd was informed that the sup- posed body would be taken to the Anti-Slavery Office, and would lie there in state over Sunday. They followed this decoy, and the station was cleared. The real coffin was then immediately slipped out by a side door, and driven to the New York station. Here Mr. McKim was waiting to receive it, and continue the northward journey. Mrs. Brown, com- pletely exhausted, remained in Philadelphia over Sunday, with Mr. Tyndale, at the house of a friend. She had passed through the crowd at the station without being recognized. Mr. McKim, with his charge, reached New York Saturday night. Being ahead of his schedule, he escaped all notice. The body was taken to an undertaker's on the Bowery, and left there to be embalmed. Late that night the reporters, having got wind of the arrival, ferreted out the place, and had a "story'' in the Sunday papers. But nothing of more moment happened. The cortege party, now reunited, proceeded to Troy on Monday. Here they stopped for a while at the American House, a temperance hotel where Brown had often stayed when hving. That night they made Rutland, Vt., where they received much kindly attention. It is noticeable how the general sympathy increased and signs of hostility lessened as they drew nearer home. The next morning, Tuesday, Vergennes was reached, and a rest taken at the hotel. When the time for departure came, 14 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS carriages were found waiting, and a large concourse assem- bled in the street to do honor to the dead hero. The bells of the churches were tolled, and a solemn procession followed the body to the shores of Lake Champlain. Here a boat was waiting which by special arrangement landed the party at Westport across the lake. From there they proceeded at once to Elizabethtown, ten miles away. Here the night was spent. The court-house was offered as a resting-place for the body, and six volunteers spent the night with it as a guard of honor. The next day, Wednesday, De- cember 7th, the last and hardest stage of the journey was com- pleted — the long, rough ride over the mountains and through Keene Valley to the North Elba home. The next day, Thurs- day, December 8, 1859, the funeral took place ; and this leads to the strangest part of the story. The Rev. Joshua Young Avas at the time thirty-six years old and in the seventh year of his ministry of the Unitarian Church in Burlington. He knew, of course, that John Brown's body was being conveyed to its last resting-place. Everybody knew that, but few knew by what route, concerning which the most conflicting reports circulated. At noon of Wednesday, December 7th, Dr. Young had no idea of attend- ing the funeral. How he came to do so had best be told in his own words : On Wednesday, just after dinner, I met on the street my parish- oner and warm personal friend, an abolitionist like myself, only more ardent, Mr. Lucius G. Bifrelow, who at once said to me: "It is now known that the body of John Brown will cross the lake at Vereennes. I want exceedingly to go to his funeral. Only say that you will go with me as my companion and my guest, and we will take the next train." To whom I replied : "I will meet you at the station at four o'clock." On reaching Vergennes they learned that the funeral party had crossed the lake the day before. They decided to follow and overtake it if possible. They hired horses and drove to the ferry in the township of Panton, six miles away. In the meantime a threatening day had ended in a severe northeast storm. The ferrjTuan refused to budge. He knew John JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 15 Brown and admired him— all but his last act. He had ferried him across the lake many times, but he would launch his boat for no one in such a storm. For an hour or more the travelers argued and urged, but to no avail. Finally a change in the weather caused a change in the feri-yman. The clouds sud- denly broke, the raia ceased, a full moon came out, and the storm began to abate. The ferryman consented to take them over. The boat was a cumbrous scow with one sail. The \vdnd, still high, was in their favor, however, and they made the passage of three miles quickly, but in great discomfort. A little after midnight they were landed safely at Barber '« Point. Here they -procured horses which took them to Elizabeth- town. From there, a fresh relay carried them on through the night and the cold and the horrible roads to their destination. They reached John Brown's farm the next day, nearly ex- i hausted by fatigue and exposure. They w^ere cordially re- ceived, of course, and found themselves in a very considerable company of people, mostly friends and neighbors of John [ Brown. Soon after there occurred the crucial incident in i Dr. Young's career, and I leave him again to tell it in his own words : Presently Mr. Wendell Phillips came into the room; a few words were exchanged, and then retiring for a few minutes, he returned and f said to me: "Mr. Young, you are a minister; admiration for this I dead hero and sympathy with this bereaved family must have brought you here, journeying all night through the cold rain and over the ! dismal mountains to reach this place. It would give INIrs. Brown and ! the other widows great satisfaction if you would perform the usual ; service of a clergyman on this occasion." Of course there was but one answer to make to such a request — from that moment I knew why ; God had sent me there. For it must be remembered that five house- holds and four families of North Elba were stricken by that blow at Harper's Ferry. The funeral took place at one o'clock. The services began with the singing of "Blow ye the trumpet, blow!" All joined in this who could, but the old tune was most familiar to the negroes, most of them fugitive slaves, who made up about half of those present. Then followed a prayer by Dr. Young ; then 16 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS an eloquent, moving speech by Wendell Pliillips. After that another hymn was sung. During this the coffin was so placed that all could see the dead man 's face. It looked very natural, having a slight flush (caused by the manner of his death) instead of the usual pallor. Then came the short procession from the house to the grave. Six residents of North Elba bore the coffin. It was followed by Mrs. John Brown on the arm of Mr. Phillips; the widow of Oliver on the arm of Mr. McKim, who by the other hand led little Ellen Bro\^^l ; next came the widow of Watson wdth Dr. Young, then the widow of William Thompson with Mr. Bigelow. At the grave Dr. Young closed the ceremonies by quoting the words of Paul before Nero : I have fought a good fight, I have finished my course, I have kept the faith. Henceforth there is laid up for me a crown of righteous- ness which the righteous judge shall give me at that day, and not to me only, but unto all them also that love his appearing. Immediately after the funeral most of the guests, including Dr. Young, started for home. On reaching there the minister began to reap the passionate aftermath of his Christian act. He found that already six of his wealthiest parishioners had resigned from his church. Others soon followed. Friends avoided him upon the streets. The papers all over the coun- try, with few exceptions, vilified and caricatured him. He was the butt of tongue and pen from coast to coast. He was branded an ''anarchist," a ''traitor," an "infidel," a "blas- phemer," a "vile associate of Garrison and Phillips." He left Burlington a respected citizen and honored pastor, he returned to it, two days later, to find himself "little better than a social outcast." Dr. Young purposely withheld the publication of his acci- dental share in this stirring event until near the close of his life, although his friends had often urged him to release it before. In the summer following the funeral, on July 4, 1860, a John Brown celebration was held in the woods which then adjoined the farm. This was largely attended both by natives and outsiders. There were many stirring speeches and much "CONE" FLANDERS HOUSE About one-half mile from Scott's, where John Brown first lived fe Photo by Murray Mir- JOHN BROWN'S FARM JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 17 singing, led as usual by the Epps family. The event was al- together notable and impressive. Mrs. Brown remained on the farm till 1864, when she sold it to Alexus Hinckley, and moved away. The Hinckleys were old settlers at North Elba, and Salmon Brown had married one of the daughters, Abbie, in 1857. In 1870 the farm was purchased by the John Brown Asso- ciation, of which Miss Kate Field, the eccentric authoress, was the organizer. She had always been an ardent admirer of John Brown, even to the extent of wishing to be buried at his side. When she heard that his farm was for sale and likely to pass into unsympathetic hands, she made a strenuous effort to save it as a historical shrine. She succeeded in inter- esting twenty well-known gentlemen, who contributed a hun- dred dollars each and formed themselves into an association to buy and maintain the John Brown Farm. It was pur- chased, and the deed given to Mr. Henry Clews, the banker, as trustee, who held it in this capacity for twenty-five years. During this time the association maintained a resident care- taker on the premises and kept them in repair. Finally a movement was started to have the State take over the prop- erty, and by 1896 all legal preliminaries for the transfer had been made. The attendant ceremonies took place on July 21, 1896. A deed of gift, made by Henry Clews and wife, conveys and dedicates to the People of New York State, land situated in North Elba, Essex County, more particularly described as Lot 95, Township 12, Old Military Tract, Thorn's Survey, to be ''used for the purpose of a public park or reservation for- ever." Lot 95 contains 244 acres, and all of it is conveyed, except- ing one eighth of an acre. This comprises the little burial plot, title to which remains vested in John Brown's heirs. A large concourse of people attended the ceremonies — resi- dents from miles around, visitors from summer hotels, and chosen representatives of the people and the State. First of all a large United States flag was raised above John Brown's grave. Then came the unveiling of a monumental stone erected on a boulder just outside the burial plot. This stone 18 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS is a granite slab, nine feet high and four feet wide. It bears the following inscription : John Bbown's Farm Donated to the People of the State of New York by Kate Field, Anna Quincy Waterston, LeGrand B. Cannon, Isaac H. Bailey, Salem H. Wales, Henry Clews, William H. Lee, Charles Stewart Smith, Simeon B Chittenden, George Cabot Ward, D. R. Martin, George A. Bobbins, Jackson S. Schultz, Charles C. Judson, Isaac Sherman, Horace B. Claflin, Elliot C. Cowdin, John E. Williams, Sinclair Tousey, Thomas Murphy. A. D. 1896 1 This tablet was covered by a loose flag. While those pres- ent joined in singing "America," it was unveiled by the hands of two old men — Leander and Frank Thompson, whose two brothers were killed at Harper's Ferry. The assemblage then gathered in and around the house, where the further exer- cises were held. The Rev. Dr. Brinkhurst of Chicago offered a prayer. Then General Edwin A. Merritt of Potsdam made an address, in which, as representative of the donors, he ten- dered the farm to the State. It was accepted by Colonel Ash- ley W. Cole, acting for Governor Levi P. Morton, who was unable to be present. Then all joined in singing 'Mohn Brown's body lies amouldering in the grave." There followed a lengthy address, reviewing John Brown's career, by Colonel Henry H. Lyman of Oswego. Next came what was to man)^ I think, the most impressive and touching part of the program. There w^as a colored family, named Epps, who for years had led the singing at the North Elba church services. They were escaped slaves who had come to 1 Twenty years later, Aug. 23, 1916, another tablet was unveiled at John Brown's grave. It was the result of a movement started by Byron T. Brewster of Lake Placid, an old friend and admirer of the Osawatomie hero. This tablet also was affixed to the large boulder in the burial plot. The inscription recites the chief events in John Brown's career, followed by the names of the twelve followers buried beside him. In separate columns are those who were caught and hanged, and those who escaped from Harper's Ferry. JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 19 the place when John Brown moved there. The father, Lyman Epps, was now an old man, and his sons were no longer young, but all had retained the gift of song and were sweet singers before the Lord. They mounted a little platform built for them in the open place before the house, and sang John BrowTi's favorite hymn, "The Year of Jubilee," beginning: "Blow ye the trumpet, blow!" They had often sung it with him in the old days, making of its words a prayer; and now they sang it by his grave, a prophecy come true. The day and the scene were impressively perfect. The air was still, and freighted with the sweetness of forests in re- pose. The distant panorama of encircling mountains was mel- lowed by soft amethystine haze, and gave the impress of na- ture kneeling down in prayer. The spirit of the dead rose up and mingled with the mood of loveliness around, and they who sang thought not of those who listened, but of those who had given their lives to make the singers free. Above the rich blend of the quartet floated the pure, sweet tenor of old man Epps, in tones which might have come from the adolescent throat of a choir-boy. With closed eyes and uplifted head he sang as one inspired, and poured forth a swan-song of un- earthly beauty.^ The Rev. Father Lynch spoke the benediction. Then a pla- toon of war veterans discharged three volleys over John Brown's grave — a soldier's salute, delivered at last, after thirty-seven years of cooling passions. And so the North Elba farm passed forever into the ranks of historical relics. Three years later, in 1899, another unique event took place at North Elba, and the attention of the country was focused again for a day around John Brown's grave. On this occasion the bones of ten of his followers at Harper's Ferry were placed in a grave beside their leader's. The ceremonies were widely advertised, largely attended, and extensively reported, and yet they seem to have escaped the notice of the general public. This last scene in the John Brown drama was staged en- tirely by Miss Katharine E. McClellan, formerly of Saranac Lake, but now residing at Sarasota, Fla. During her resi- 1 Lyman Epi)s died in March, 1897, and was buried at North Elba. 20 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS dence in Saranac Lake, Miss McClellan established a photo- graphic studio and became widely known for her artistic pic- tures of Adirondack scenery. Among them were many of John Brown's home, some of which are used in the official re- port ^ of its transfer to the State. Miss McClellan also wrote a sketch of John Brown which, neatly bound and artistically illustrated, was on sale at the farm for a number of years. This association of her name with the place led to her receiv- ing one day a rather startling letter from an utter stranger. The writer was Dr. Thomas Featherstonhaugh of Washing- ton, D. C. He unfolded a plan to exhume the bones of several of John Brown's followers, and have them reburicd beside their leader, Avith public ceremonies and military honors, tie himself could not leave Washington, and he begged Miss Mc- Clellan to undertake the North Elba end of the scheme. In the enthusiasm of the moment she consented, not fully real- izing the difficulties of the task she had assumed, but carry- ing it through, by unflagging zeal and tireless effort, to a most successful issue. The affair led to much correspondence, especially with Dr. Featherstonhaugh. All of this Miss Mc- Clellan has kindly turned over to me for use in this chapter. Great secrecy was maintained in the sending and arrival of the bones, for they had been taken without the knowledge or consent of any one, save the owner of the land on which they lay. They were brought to Saranac Lake by a confidential agent, in an ordinary traveling-trunk. This was left with Miss McClellan, who kept it at her house till just before the ceremonies. Up to the last there was the vague dread of sud- den interference, but none of any moment developed. Twenty-two men were engaged in the attack at Harper's Ferry. Of these seven were captured and hanged; five escaped, and ten were killed. Among the latter were Watson Brown and Jeremiah G. Anderson, whose bodies were given to the Winchester Medical College of Virginia, for anatomical purposes. What became of Anderson's remains after that is not known; but Watson's were recovered and buried at North Elba in 1882. The other bodies were rudely interred in two large boxes on the edge of the Shenandoah River, about half 1 Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission. Report for 189G. JOHN BROWN AT NORTH ELBA 21 a mile from Harper's Ferry. It is the bones of these eight men that Dr. Featherstoiihaugh recovered. Their names follow; Oliver Brown, son of John. William Thompson of North Elba. ) Dauphin Thompson of North Elba J ^^^^^^^^ of Henry. Stewart Taylor of Uxbridge, Canada. John Henrie Kagi of Bristol, O. William H. Leeman of Hallowell, Me. Dangerfield Newby, j Lewis Sheridan Leary. \ ^^"l^^os. The remains of two other bodies were added to the list at the last moment. Mr. E. P. Stevens of Brookline, Mass., hearing of what was going on, asked permission to send the bones of his uncle Aaron D. Stevens, and of a companion Albert Hazlett, to be reinterred with their comrades. These were two of the raiders who had been caught and hanged, and later buried at Perth Amboy, N. J. Their accession to the number made a total of ten bodies recovered. The other eight bodies were disinterred on July 29, 1899, by Dr. Featherstonhaugh, accompanied by Captain E. P. Hall of Washington and Professor 0. G. Libby of the University of Wisconsin, who brought the mysterious trunk to Saranac Lake, Dr. Featherstonhaugh feels that the identity of the remains is beyond question, owing to the unusual boxes that contained them, to the remote and virtually unknown spot that hid them, and above all to the fact that James Mansfield of Harper's Ferry, who received five dollars from the county to bury them, was again employed to unearth them. The two large boxes were found to lie about three feet below the surface of the ground, and, although much decayed, were still in an unexpected state of preservation, owing to moisture from the near-by river. Much of the clothing was also preserved. Parts of coats and vests, with the buttons still on, were found. From one of the pockets there fell two short lead-pencils, sharpened for use, which, thanks to Miss McClellan, are now in my possession. Masses of woolen texture were found around each body, which would argue that they had been buried in the blanket shawls in which they fought — shawls which had been sent to 22 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS the Kennedy farm as a gift shortly before the raid. The smaller bones of the bodies had all mouldered away, but the larger ones were found intact. These, after making their journey northward in a trunk, were finally placed, with the Perth Amboy remains, in one handsome casket. This, at Miss McClellan's suggestion, was donated by the Town of North Elba. It had silver handles and a silver plate, on wliich were inscribed the names of the men and the date of burial. The day chosen for the ceremonies was August 30, 1899 — the forty-third anniversary of the last fight at Osawatomie. Once again the weather was fair and smiled upon the occasion, which lured some fifteen hundred people to the lonely spot. Ruth Thompson — an old lady living in the West — wrote that she felt so happy over the event that she could not sleep. She said she would be there in spirit, but that poverty would pre- vent her coming in person. The Rev. Joshua Young, who had laid John Brown to rest, performed the last rites over the new grave of his followers. Colonel Richard J. Hinton made a lengthy address, and Bishop Potter and Whitelaw Reid made shorter ones. The surviving members of the Epps family once more made sweet and sol- emn music above the graves of men who had died to make them free. A detachment of the 26tli U. S. Infantry, from Plattsburg, fired a soldier's salute; the benediction was spoken, and the curtain fell on the last act of a national drama, begun at Harper's Ferry forty years before. I CHAPTER XXXI ADIRONDACK LODGE A FEW miles south of Lake Placid is Heart Lake (for- merly Clear Lake), on whose shores stood the once famous Adirondack Lodge, one of the largest log structures in the world. It was a unique building, erected and domi- nated for many years by a unique man — Henry van Hoeven- berg. For many of the details of his career I am indebted to one of his most intimate friends Mr. Godfrey Dewey of the Lake Placid Club, who wrote a lengthy obituary article concerning him for the "Lake Placid News" of March 1, 1918. Mr. van Hoevenberg, or ''Mr. Van," as he was popularly called, came of Dutch Huguenot ancestry, and was born at Oswego, N. Y., on March 22, 1849. His family later moved to Lansingburg, and then to Troy, where he attended school. At an early age he showed a marked bent for mechanical in- vention. Obliged to go to work in his teens, he secured a position as telegraph messenger boy. His interest centered at once around the keyboard, and he soon became an expert operator. Telegraphy was then in its infancy, and the gifted young Van was not long in devising and applying schemes for its improvement. He was one of the first to see the possibili- ties of a printing telegraph, and ultimately contributed to its development some of the basic principles in use to-day. He rose rapidly in his profession and became chief electrician of the Baltimore & Ohio system. Later he was called to Eng- land to supervise one of the first printing telegraphs installed there. He is said to have taken out over one hundred patents in his lifetime, and to have received over $100,000 from them. Nearly all of this went into his Adirondack Lodge, and w^as ultimately lost. Like most inventors he was not remarkable for commercial shrewdness, and was prone to get into law- suits. 23 24 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS About the time he built the lodge, he began to suffer from a virulent form of hay-fever, which gradually forced him to spend all his time in the woods and to give up all outside ac- tivities. After losing his ownership of the lodge, in 1895, he was engaged by the newly organized Lake Placid Club as its first postmaster and telegraph operator. Later he became manager of the telegraph office in the village of Lake Placid. In 1900 the Lake Placid Club bought the lodge and rein- stalled Mr. Van as superintendent and host in his former home. He stayed there till it burned in the destructive fires of 1903. Again he went back to the club, acting in various useful and popular capacities. His interest at this time and his duties centered largely in promoting the objects of the Adirondack Camp and Trail Club, which was organized through the combined enthusiasm of himself, Mr. Edward A. Woods of Pittsburgh, and Mr. Godfrey Dewey. The purpose of the club was to blaze and keep open trails to the higher peaks and strategic points of outlook; to build lean-tos and huts, and to furnish them with a communal supply of blankets and cooking-utensils. Mr. Van's fondest dream was to erect a permanent stone shelter near the summit of Mount Marcy. This, however, he did not live to accomplish. Feeling the necessity of going into business, he moved across the lake and opened an electrical store in the village in 1917. Soon after, he was taken suddenly ill while off on a tramp one Sunday afternoon, and his friends at the club in- duced him to return to it for rest and recuperation. For a week he seemed to improve, but he died suddenly on Febmary 25, 1918. Services were held at Lake Placid, and the body was taken to Troy for burial. He was survived by only one near relative, a sister, Mrs. Gilbert Knight of Gilbertsville, Mass. The building of Adirondack Lodge traces back to romantic beginnings. Mr. Van's first visit to the mountains was in 1877 when, with some friends, he camped on Upper Ausable Lake. In the party was a Miss Josephine Scofield, to whom he became engaged. The young lovers were naturally under the spell of the Adirondacks, and wove them ardently into their plans for the future. They decided to climb the ADIRONDACK LODGE 25 highest mountain and from its summit select the most beau- tiful spot in sight as the location for a future home — a home that was also to be a house of entertainment for friends and acquaintances. They ascended Mount Marcy, and found in the outlook some embarrassment of beautiful spots. Finally, however, they agreed upon one. It was a tiny lake that looked to them like a heart-shaped sapphire deeply cushioned in the velvety green of primeval tree-tops. It lay in utter seclusion, the moun- tains rising sheer from its shores. One of them was imme- diately named Mount Jo, in honor of Miss Scofield. The spot she chose became the site of the lodge, but she did not live to see it built. She died suddenly mthin the year. In the following summer of 1878, Mr. Van returned to the woods, ha\ing resolved to carry out alone, as a form of memo- rial, the general scheme that had been planned. He bought 640 acres of land surrounding Heart Lake and including Mount Jo. He cleared a bit of level ground near the lake, and began the erection of the lodge. First of all, a road had to be built to it from the highway at North Elba. This new road was of corduroy construction, and traces of the massive logs that were used are still visible to-day. All the building material for the lodge, except the big logs, had to be hauled in from Ausable Forks, thirty-five miles away. The exterior of the house was formed of giant spruces, many of them measuring over two feet in the lower courses. The main building had a frontage of eighty-five feet and was thirty-six feet deep and three stories high, wdth a rear wing of almost equal size. A very high, built-in observation tower rose above the gabled roof, and broad piazzas stretched on every side. The interior was inlaid with every refinement of rustic work that skill and ingenuity could devise. It also con- tained every comfort and sanitary convenience that the times afforded, and was one of the first Adirondack hotels to offer bath-rooms to its guests. It was finally completed and opened to the public in the summer of 1880, and for fifteen years enjoyed a quiet but steady popularity. This was largely due to the personality of the owner, who made it play an important part in the enter- 26 A HISTORY OF THE ADIKONDACKS tainment of his guests. An indefatigable tramper himself, he opened and kept open over fifty miles of wood trails, diverg- ing from the lodge to the many points of scenic beauty in the neighborhood. He believed, moreover, that a tramping- expedition should be made as comfortable as possible for all concerned. He was among the first to realize that the charm of unavoidable hardships is not increased by unnecessary ones, and he was most successful in demonstrating the theory. His tramping and camping parties were always provided with dainty food and the best of bedding. His companionship and leadership on the trail were always eagerly sought. His enthusiasm, his cheerfulness, his knowl- edge of the woods, made him the best of guides, and his gift for weaving and telling a tale made him a boon companion. His story-telling — which extended to writing and publishing, and often took the form of verso — soon became an institution and tradition of the lodge. Special evenings were set apart for it and the out-of-door stage was artistically prepared around a huge camp fire. On these occasions the minstrel would appear in his famous suit of genuine Indian smoke- tanned buckskin, ornamented with gay Mexican beadwork. Mr. Van was small of stature, but stocky and muscular, and had the dogged endurance of an Indian. He wore a grizzly beard, and his keen eyes were shadowed by bushy brows. The eyes reflected a general gentleness of character, but could flash with the fire of righteous anger. His dress was the ma- terial expression of his outdooring disposition. Early in his Adirondack career he had originated the idea of wearing leather clothing, and this unusual but durable attire became distinctly associated with his person. It was the outcome of his constant tramping and working in the woods, and the in- adequacy of ordinary clothing to withstand rough usage. He had a dozen leather suits, each of a different color. One of these lasted him for twenty years. Another familiar link with his appearance was a beautiful pet saddle-horse which he used for making his almost daily trips between the lodge and Lake Placid tillage. After losing the lodge through litigation connected with some of his patents, in 1895, and being reinstated as manager ADIRONDACK LODGE 27 in 1900, there followed three happy summers there for him- self and his many friends. Then, in the spring of 1903, came the fearful fires that destroyed it. No one who was living in the Adirondacks at the time will ever forget the dread and suspense of those days. The whole woods seemed ablaze, and there were actually fires in every section of them. They started during a long drought, and continued through a spell of almost windless weather. The result was a dense pall of smoke that settled everywhere and obscured the outlook a hundred feet away. This, continuing from day to day, caused a nerve-racking uncertainty. No one not definitely informed could tell where the fires were, which way they were creeping, or when they might flare up suddenly near camp or cabin. It was thus that they stealthily stormed the lodge. On June 3d, the fatal day, there was no one there but a gang of workmen. Mr. Van had been oif camping for the night and scouting for danger. lie returned home in the belief that none was near. Hardly had he entered the house, however, when a telephone call for help came from South Meadows, a mile away to the east. The fires were there and headed for the lodge. Horses and men were at once despatched to the rescue, but were soon forced to turn back before rapidly ad- vancing smoke and flames. Mr. Van, meanwhile, had mounted his seventy-foot outlook tower, and tried to peer over the smoke-smothered tree-tops. He could just see the flare of inevitable doom surging do^\^l from Mount Jo. He was being hemmed in by two fires. He saw that the lodge was doomed and that his own escape was already problematical. He called to his men to help him carry down his large telescope and place it in a boat, which he pushed out into the lake. Then he threw the table silver into shallow water. Next he brought out the unfinished model of his ''Kemigraph"— his latest invention— and placed it on a rock in the clearing. Finally, he emptied the stable of horses, and locked the doors. These things done, he turned his thoughts to escape. By this time the men sent to South Meadows had returned, and Mr. Van started with them all on the trail around the lake leading to the Indian Pass. It was the only avenue of 28 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS retreat left open. They had not gone far, however, when one of the men — Frank Williams, the caretaker — discovered that Mr. Van had disappeared. Guessing the truth, he ran back to the lodge and there found the captain determined to go down with his ship. It w^as a foolish bit of bravado, if you like, and directly traceable, no doubt, to overstrung nerves, but showing a touching depth of affection for a place — and a place he no longer owned but merely loved. The colloquy that followed was short. Mr. Van drew a re- volver and bid Williams begone. The latter sat dowm and refused to budge wdthout his employer. This restored reason to the fanatic. He hastily gathered a few things together and consented to go. The two men started on a run. They were none too soon. The flames were already leaping across their path. Mr. Van's condition can be judged from the fact that a red-hot ember embedded itself in his hand, but he was not aware of it till security was reached and relaxation set in. The party gained the borders of the Indian Pass at night- fall, and rested there in a coign of safety. The darkness was lined with a lurid silence. Few, if any, slept. Suddenly, about midnight, the nervous watchers heard a distant crum- bling crash. They gazed at each other with a sure surmise. They knew the voice and read the message right. The Adi- rondack Lodge had passed into the Land of Things that Were. CHAPTER XXXII KEENE VALLEY TO the east of Lake Placid and Adirondack Lodge lies the beautiful Keene Valley, one of the earliest localities to be permanently settled and transiently visited. It is unique. There is nothing like it anj^vhere else in the Adirondacks. It is a Swiss-like combination of broad and fertile meadow-lands, surrounded by abruptly rising mountains. Through its cen- ter, from south to north, gracefully winds the East Branch of the Ausable River. Keene Valley lies just within the eastern ''blue line" of the park, which is here identical with the eastern boundary of the Town of Keene. The usual confusion of names is not lacking. The valley proper has an extent of several miles. Within it are two distinct settlements. Near the center is the village of Keene, now called Keene Center. Five miles to the south is a larger village named Keene Valley, formerly known as Keene Flats. KEENE CENTER The earliest settlement in the present village of Keene Cen- ter was in 1797, when a man named Benjamin Payne settled there with his wife. He came from Jay, and cleared a lumber road from that place to his lone Keene shanty. Here, it is said, the first white child in the valley, Betsy Payne, was born in 1798. And here the pioneer of this section died in 1800. Soon after this other settlers came to the valley and spread themselves over the land between the two present villages. By 1823 their number was sufficient to induce an optimist named William Wells to open a store in what is now Keene Center. Obviously this trading-venture must have been ex- tremely primitive, but it antedated by many years any other attempt to open a store in the Adirondacks. In the same year, 1823, David Graves built the first approxi- 29 30 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS mation of a hotel in the place — and in the valley — and was appointed the first postmaster of the first post-office in the Adirondacks. The mail, however, came and went but twice a week, and was carried on horseback to and from Westport. The original Graves Hotel is still standing at the cross- roads which make the center of the little village to-day. Di- rectly in front of it billows an enormous elm. It has a spread of 91 feet, and its trunk measures 21 Vo feet in circumference. It is not only the largest elm in the Adirondacks but it attained its great size within the lifetime of the person who planted it. Mrs. Frank Hull, a resident of Keene Center, says the tree was planted by her mother Mary Gay and another little girl Delia Ann Graves, daughter of the hotel-keeper, while the two children were playing together in front of the old hotel. The Graves girl grew up, married, and went West to live. In her later life she was told of the wonderful growth of her tree, and made a special trip to her old home in order to see it. During this visit she called on Mrs. Hull, the daughter of the playmate who had shared in the planting. The first Graves Hotel appears to have been surprisingly well patronized, for at the end of two years the proprietor abandoned the old one and built a larger one across the road from it. This had a checkered career and changed hands frequently. In 1850 it was sold to Arvilla E. Blood, who, with her brothers, ran it till 1866 and then sold it to Willard Bell.' The Bloods then moved to Saranac Lake and purchased what is now the Riverside Inn.^ The Keene Center hotel was de- stroyed by fire in 1883, but was immediately rebuilt. It is now (1920) a cozy little tavern called ''Owl's Head Inn," oMmed by Wallace Murray and run by William Washburn. The latter is a direct descendant of an early settler on Alstead Hill, which calls for a word of notice here. This was the once familiar name applied to the long, steep rise that lifts the road from the valley toward the Cascade Lakes. The grueling pull up Alstead Hill was the dread of man and beast in coaching- days, and is still a climb that commands the respect of avoid- 1 Mr. Bell was noted for vvearinji a "stovepipe" hat with a dome-shaped top. It earner] for him the nickname of "Bee Hive Bell." 2 See Chap. XX, "Saranac Lake." KEENE VALLEY 31 ance by automobiles. In the early days, however, the broad slopes of the hillside lured many of the pioneer settlers. Though it had the first hotel, store, and post-office in the mountains, Keene Center did not keep the promise of its precocity. As a village it has grown scarcely at all in a hun- dred years.i Its trinity of public utilities did not sprout. It has always remained a gateway to the beauties beyond it. Travelers passed it by in order to reach the greater scenic splendors of the more southern valley. Stoddard's guide- book of 1879 has nothing to say of Keene Center, but it devotes several pages to the larger village five miles below it. KEENE VALLEY (tHE VILLAGE) This is the present name of what was formerly known as Keene Flats — a less confusing and more appropriate desig- nation. The settlement here antedates that of Keene Center, for the records at Albany show that "one Pangborn and one Biddlecome were living on Lot 23, Mallory's Grant," in 1797. This was south of Prospect Hill, near Dr. Laight's house. The next settler appears to have been Otis Estes, who set- tled on the present Estes Farm, just north of Prospect Hill, in 1800. The present house on this old farm is owned by the Rev. Livingston Taylor, who takes great pride in pointing out one part of it as a relic of the pioneer structure. This stood originally near a brook, and was undermined in 1837 by a freshet. Thereupon the neighbors foregathered with twenty yoke of oxen and transported the house to the present site. In 1806 Smith Holt, while visiting his father-in-law in West- port, heard of the rich valley along the Ausable River, and decided to try his fortune there. He settled south of the present village, and east of what is now called Ogden Bridge. He had a large family. He brought four boys and three girls to the valley with him, and two more boys and one girl were born there, making a total of eight cliildren. The father died in 1814. The girls all married and moved away. The boys also went away, but three of them soon returned to the old 1 I recently saw the following item in a local paper: "Keene is gottin9- to be a regular thriving metropolis. For tlie first time in its history the pretty little village is to have sidewalks." The Daily Item, July 9, 1919. 32 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS homestead and stayed there till about 1856, when they began buying separate farms. Alvah bought at the entrance to the valley; James, near John's Brook; and Harvey, a mile to the north of him. Between 1806 and 1810 a number of settlers came to the valley, among them Roderick McKenzie and Aaron and Phineas Beede. The McKenzie Farm is where the Ranney Cottages now stand. The Beedes located at first nearer Keene Center than Keene Valley. Phineas Beede settled just north of Norton Cemetery, on what is now the Dudley Farm, and it is said that he bought **all the land in sight for thirty bushels of oats." Phineas Beede had three sons — Orrin, Almon, and Allen — and one daughter Alma. Aaron Beede also had three sons, Smith, Eldward, and David. Of these Smith Beede became most widely known as the owner of what is now St. Hubert's Inn. Not only did Keene Valley take the lead in stores and hotels, but the Town of Keene organized the first school district in the Adirondacks. A complete record of the trustee meetings has been preserved from the year 1813, although there is evi- dence that a school existed prior to that date. On July 6, 1913, the one hundredth anniversary of the first recorded meeting was celebrated, and on this occasion Mrs. F. M. Scanlon, libra- rian of the Keene Valley Library, read a paper entitled: ''A Brief History of School District No. 1 of the Town of Keene, from 1813 to the Present Time." This article, as well as the rare old book of records, was graciously loaned to me by Mrs. Scanlon, to whom, moreover, I am indebted for much other material and valuable help in connection with this chapter. The old school records are a unique and interesting com- pilation, and afford an excellent bird's-eye view of the gradual growth of this once secluded community. The earlier entries are most primitively worded, written, and spelled; but the later ones reflect the spread of the educational efforts they briefly record. The original School District does not appear to have ex- tended beyond Hull's Falls, as no names of those living KEENE VALLEY 33 beyond that point are in the records. It is noticeable that the name Beede is not mentioned in them at all. The first school trustees were Jonathan Graves, Joseph Bruce, and Otis Estes; but just where the first school was held can no longer be determined. The first hint of location is given in the following entry, which is quoted in full as a fair sample of them all : Nov. 16, 1815 This day School District No 1 met and voted 1 Otis Estes moderator voted 2 to keep school three months this winter in Joseph Bnices house by putting in one window, voted 3 to git one forth of a cord of wood for each skoller that is sent to school this winter voted 4 that if any one neglected to git his wood he should pa the sum of one dollar and fifty cents pur cord voted 5 to disolve this meeting In 1817 Luther Walker received $1.25 for the use of his room for the winter. In 1818 it was voted to build a school-house, but this was not completed till 1820. It measured twenty by twenty-four feet and stood in the field now owned by B. B. Estes, nearly opposite Charles Barton's house. It was to be "big enuf for forty siters." In 1825 we get the first approximation of the teacher's salary. It was voted "to pay three dollars in money and the rest in iron and grane at the given price when the school is out." In 1826 we catch the first glimpse of a widening horizon. It is voted "that a tax he raised to pay for a Book to keep School district Records therein." The trustees have now thrown economy to the winds, and have inaugurated a veritable orgy of taxation. In 1828 we are confronted by the following resolution: "that we raise by tax three dollars and ten cents to repair the schoolhouse." Imagine the dilapidation that $3.10 would repair after eight years of use ! 34 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS By 1833 there were thirty-seven pupils attending the school, and the budget amounted to $19.46. By 1838 the attendance had overrun the * 'forty siters" mark, and had jumped to forty-six. Congestion had begun. By 1850, therefore, it was found necessary to build a larger school-house. This was erected on Harvey Holt's lot, next to Norman Dibble's south line. It cost $238 and Orson Phelps was the carpenter. It was not painted, however, till 1882, when it received a coat of the usual red color, and be- came known as the ** Little Red School-house." It is still standing on the Keene Valley Country Club grounds and is used as a locker and tool-house. Over the entrance is a panel with the following inscription : This building was erected for a District School Hoiis»e in 1850 and was framed by Orson S. Phelps. Divine Worship was for many years held here by Thomas Watson, Pastor. Horace Bushnell James B. Shaw Noah Porter William H. Hodge Joseph H. Twichell William L. Kingsley. In 1887 a third building was erected at a cost of $1,400 and a branch school was built near St. Hubert's Inn, which is still used to-day. In 1910 the present main school-house was built at a cost of $11,000, and this completes a brief survey of the oldest school district in the mountains, which may be tabulated as follows : School- house Built Used Cost Sold for 1st 1820 30 years $168. $ 4.75 2d 1850 37 " 238. 63.00 3d 1887 23 " 1,400. 400.00 4th 1910 (to 1920) 10 " 11,000. 100 years That the school had a library at some early date is attested by the following unusual entry on a separate and undated page of the records : KEENE VALLEY 35 Amount of fines for damages done to School Library Dist. No. 1. G. T. Bruce for one grease spot 0.06 Orin Dibble " " " " 0.10 It is interesting to note that the first school-house sold for a trifle less than five dollars. This illustrates nicely the value of pennies in the community even as late as 1850. The man who drove what would now seem a very close bargain, was David Hale, whose son LeGrand Hale is still Uving in the valley. The father, in the very early days, lived for a time at the outlet of Lower Ausable Lake, where he had a saw- mill. His particular claim to distinction here, however, is the fact that he once o^v^led what is now the smallest parcel of State land in the Adirondacks. It is a lot, containing exactly one acre, on Styles Brook in the northeastern part of the Town of Keene. It is Lot 128 of Henry's Survey, and is shown on the large Conservation Commission map by a pinhead of red touching the ''blue line." David Hale lumbered the tiny, isolated lot, and then allowed it to revert to the State for taxes. Biddlecome, who has been mentioned as one of the earliest settlers, left his impress on the community by cutting and smoothing out a trail from Keene Valley through South Meadows to North Elba. This old trail is shown on the Geo- logical Survey maps. It follows Slide Brook to the South Meadows Brook, and comes out near Adirondack Lodge, al- though it seems probable that originally it came out nearer the Plains of Abraham, for it became the highway between that spot and Keene Valley. A horse and wagon could get through in summer, jumpers were pulled over it in winter, and riders on horseback went over it at all times. It was used as a bridle-path as late as 1840, for Mrs. Scanlon told me of an old lady living in Vermont, who often told of her OAvn experience in that year. It was one of much cold and rain, and food was very scarce. The old lady — then a young married woman living in North Elba — told how, in the ab- sence of her husband, her supplies became exhausted. As a last resource she managed to collect a small bag of corn. She then saddled a horse, put the bag and her small child in front 36 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS of her, and rode all the way to Westport over the Biddlecome Road to get the corn ground into meal. She forded the An- sable River at a point a little south of Biddlecome 's house, which would seem to indicate that the trail came out there. This Biddlecome Road was soon given a more pictur- esque name. It was in spots, of course, exceedingly narrow and rough, and some traveler, after coming over it, remarked that he had gotten through, but that *'it was tight nipping." This at once became a designation for the road or its worst parts, and for many years people spoke of coming or going ''through Tight-Nipping." Whereby hangs another story— for it was in "Tight-Nipping" that the famous "Allen's Bear Fight up in Keene" took place. Anson H. Allen, the hero of the tale, was a printer and pub- lisher born in 1806. He started several papers in different places, and finally settled in Keeseville and began publishing a paper called "The Old Settler," after which he was popu- larly known as "Old Settler Allen." In 1840 he was ap- pointed to take the census of Essex County. This he did in person, making a house-to-house canvass. While traveling to North Elba from Keene Valley, in the wildest part of the "Tight-Nipping" road, he was attacked by a huge she-bear. A long and fierce struggle ensued, but the census-taker finally came off victor. Thereafter, of course, he delighted to re- count the adventure, which lost nothing in picturesqueness by his constant retelling. It spread like a saga through the countr>"-side, and was taken as a theme by two creative artists. One made an oil-painting of the titanic struggle, which a few years ago was in the possession of the hero's son Frederick P. Allen of Troy. I have seen a small photograph of this painting, which gives the impression that its artistic merit is subordinate to its historical interest. The other creative impulse resulted in a poem entitled: "Allen's Bear Fight up in Keene." It was penned by some inglorious Milton whose name I have not been able to dis- cover. The poem itself, however, enjoyed a remarkable popu- larity throughout the Adirondack region. It is still remem- bered and quoted by those who delight to reminisce. It runs as follows: KEENE VALLEY 37 ALLEN'S BEAR FIGHT UP IN KEENE Of all the wonders of the day, There 's one that I can safely say Will stand upon the rolls of fame, To let all know bold Allen's name. The greatest fight that e'er was seen, Was Allen's bear fight up in Keene. In 1S40, as I 've heard. To take the census off he steered. Through bush and wood for little gain, He walked from Keene to Abrani'a plain; But naught of this — it is not well His secret motives thus to tell. As through the wood he trudged his way, His mind unruffled as the day, He heard a deep convulsive sound, Which shook the earth and trees around, And looking up with dread amaze. An old she-bear there met his gaze. The bear with threatening aspect stood, To prove her title to the wood. This Allen saw with darkening frown, He reached and pulled a young tree down, Then on his guard, with cautious care, He watched the movements of the bear. Against the rock with giant strength, He held her out at his arm's length. Oh, God! he cried in deep despair. If you don't help me, don't help the bear. 'T was rough and tumble, tit for tat, The nut cakes fell from Allen's hat. Then from his pocket forth he drew, A large jack-knife for her to view. He raised his arm high in the air, And butcher-like, he killed the bear. Let old men talk of courage bold, Of battles fought in days of old, Ten times as bad, but none I ween, Can match a bear fight up in Keene.i 1 There is a striking similarity between this old poem and a recent popular song entitled '"The Preacher and the Bear." The latter was brought out by the Victor Company as record No. 17221, 38 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS The village of Keene Valley soon became a distinctive cen- ter for painters, and was the only spot in the Adirondacks where they congregated in numbers. At one time as many as twenty-one were living and working there. The one who be- came most lastingly associated with the place and attracted many of the others to it, was R. M. Shurtleff, who made it his summer home for over forty years. His widow still spends her summers there, and through her kindness I have had placed at my disposal an autobiographical sketch which Mr. Shurtleff was fortunately induced to write shortly before his sudden death in 1915. It contains not only the stirring events of his early life, but many later ones that have historical value for these pages. Eoswell Morse Shurtleff was born at Rindge, N. H., in 1839. He entered Dartmouth College, but did not graduate; partly because he was too fond of drawing caricatures, and partly because he found he could not study art there. After leaving he roamed around for a while, trying his hand at different trades — machine-drafting, architecture, drawing on stone, and making water-color sketches. He spent a year or two in Bos- ton, drawing on wood for a living, and attending evening art classes at the Lowell Institute. In 1860 lie went to New York and did illustrating for ''Leslie's Weekly," while continuing his art studies at the School of Design. His work caught the attention of P. T. Barnum, for w^hom he subsequently made many posters and pictorial advertisements. When the Civil War broke out he was among the first to enlist, joining the 99th New York Volunteers. He was ap- pointed adjutant to Colonel Bartlett, with the rank of Lieu- tenant. In July, 1861, while out with a scouting party, he was wounded and taken prisoner. The next eight months were spent in Southern hospitals and prisons, and then he was re- leased on parole. On his way home to visit his mother in Winchendon, Conn., he met his future wife Miss Clara Halli- day, to whom he was ultimately married on June 14, 1867. After this visit he was called to New York to take charge of all New York State paroled prisoners. He was released of this command only shortly before the end of the war, and he then took a position with the ''Illustrated News," In 1868 KEENE VALLEY 39 he went to Hartford to do some work for a publisher, and re- mained there for two years. On his return to New York he began painting in oils, doing animals at first and later land- scapes. This was the beginning of his career as a picture- painter. It led to notable results. His work ranks to-day among the best by American artists. It is honest, straightforward paint- ing, free from all faddism, full of fine feeling and dreamy delicacy. He became distinctively, and almost exclusively, a painter of the Adirondacks. He studied them lovingly for forty years, and caught their moods and mysteries as no one else has done. One of his pictures is in the Metropolitan Museum of New York, several are in the Corcoran Art Gal- lery of Washington, and many are in other public and private collections. Two incidents of Mr. Shurtleff's war experiences are of such general interest as to deserve mention here. He was the first Union ofificer to be wounded and captured, and he carried the first flag to be taken by the Confederates. It was ulti- mately returned to him by his captor Colonel Sandidge, with whom he became the best of friends. It is a small flag about two feet wide and four feet long, and still shows the blood- stains from Lieutenant Shurtleff's w^ound. His other contribution to Civil AVar history hinges on the probability that, unintentionally, he designed the Confederate flag. How this came about had best he told in his own words. It happened while he was in the hospital at Richmond. I read in the Richmond papers of mistal until some geologists visited the spot, he did not know that he probably owned the biggest boulder in the country. According to i\rr. Shurtleff, John Fitch was the first profes- sional painter to discover Keene Valley and transfer its beau- ties to canvas. As early as 1852, however, an amateur artist named Perkins had strayed into the valley and been captivated by its charms. He found a home at the Bruce farm (later ** Dibble's"), where he stayed for eighteen months, paying a dollar and a half a week for board and lodging ! William Hart was another early arrival in the valley. A. H. Wyant has been mentioned. Among those who came later were: James and George Smillie, Samuel Coleman, Words- worth Thompson, Arthur and Ernest Parton, Carleton Wig- gins, George McCord, A. H. Hekking, Edward Gay, Winslow Homer, J. C. Trotman, Gedney Bunce, Robert Miner, Alden Weir, Alpheus Cole, Joseph Boston, Robert Van Boskorck, Miss Piatt, and George C. Parker, who resides permanently in the valley. Alden Weir bought and built on land adjoining Mr. Shurt- leff 's. The Smillies and Wyant were the only others to build homes for themselves. All of these artists did more or less work in the valley, but none of them linked it to their later fame as did Mr. Shurtleff. He made it the rock on which he built; the others used it merely as a stepping-stone. For several years the summer visitors were almost exclu- sively these artists and their friends. The landscape on a pleasant day would be widely dotted with white umbrellas, looking like large toadstools that had growm up over night. As these painters sent their pictures to the exhibitions, they began to attract the attention of people of wealth, who were thereby lured into the valley. Among the first of this class were the Ranneys of New Jersey. Miss Nancy Ranney, the aunt of those now in the valley, bought the McKenzie farm in 1865, in partnership with Dr. Normand Smith and John Fitch. The agreement w^as that none of them should marry — but Cupid was quick to call the bluff. The two men soon resigned from the club, and Miss Ranney bought out their interest. After her death the house was sold to D. M. Walbridge, and 44 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS then to Miss Fannie Falk of New York, who tore down the old building and put up the fine new one that stands on the site to- day. Near it is a house built by Timothy Ranney in 1873, and now occupied by the family. Mrs. Timothy Ranney at one time wrote down some of her memories of Keene Valley when she first came to it in 1864. I have been allowed to see this paper and to cull some in- teresting facts from its pages. In 1856 the valley had suffered severely from freshets caused by heavy rains and by the bursting of the dam on Lower Ausable Lake, where David Hale had his sawmill. The fences and bridges carried away at this time had not been replaced in 1864, and the cattle roamed at will where fancy led them. From Holt's Corners to Beede's only ten houses could be counted. Two were painted red, two white; while the rest retained their native ** wood-color." There was no store, post-office, or church in the place. The mail came from Keene Center twice a week and religious services were held in the little red school-house.^ The Ranneys all boarded for a while with Joseph Bruce, whose house had once accommodated the early school. They paid three dollars and a half a week. They had plenty of vegetables, but tasted meat only when a native ** critter" was killed. Maple sugar was the only sweetener used for cook- ing or drinking purposes. Life in the valley, in short, was divorced from everything that smacked of luxury — excepting for the eyes. Others who came about this time were the Misses Dunham and Miss Libby Hammersley, both of Hartford, Conn. The Dunhams bought the old Spooner place, which had been built around 1800, and which they never greatly altered. The old house is now owned and occupied, in the summer, by a niece of the Dunhams.^ 1 There was, however, a church organization (Congregational) in the Town as early as IS'28, and the Methodists organized in 1833. - The present Keene Valley Library traces back to Miss Sarah Dunham. About 1880 she gave $200 for the nucleus of a circulating library. In 1890 the Rev. J. M. Perry organized a public library, which was housed over B. B. Estes's store. In 1895 Miss Dunham gave $800 toward a building-fund. This was increased by entertainments to $1,500, and the present structure was erected in 1896. KEENE VALLEY 45 In 1875 John Matthews of New York built a unique and costly bungalow on the old Baxter Farm, north of the village. He called his new home ''Brook Knoll Lodge." The outside was of shaggy cedar logs, with many gables, balconies, and dormer-windows. The inside was finished in native and im- ported woods, and elegantly furnished. It was by far the most pretentious and beautiful residence that had been built in the valley. Dr. Normand Smith, previously mentioned, was brought in by John Fitch. The young doctor took such a fancy to the place that he tried to induce his father, a man of large means, to buy the entire valley. The father demurred, but after his death his son bought large tracts of land on both sides of the river, and undoubtedly saved much of the forest from the lumberman's ax. Dr. Smith was for years a prominent and popular figure in the valley, and his death was mourned by every one. His former home, though near the village, is hidden by the Nott- man Hill. It is a feature of the valley that most of the private residences are more or less obscured from view. They are built along the rising ground among the wooded hills and knolls on each side, and only a bit of gable or a chimney peeps out here and there. Besides the artist colony a number of eminent professional men made Keene Valley their summer home. Among these were: Dr. Noah Porter of Yale, and Professor George P. Fischer; Professor William James of Harvard, and Professor Fiske of Cornell; Charles Dudley Warner, Dean Sage, Dr. Felix Adler, his brother Isaac, and their brother-in-law. Dr. Sachs ; Dr. Charles Laight, Dr. William Pennington, the Rev. William H. Hodge of Philadelphia, the Rev. James B. Shaw of Rochester, the Rev. Horace Bushnell, the Rev. Joseph H. Twichell of Hartford, and the Rev. William L. Kingsley. This is rather an impressive roster of distinguished names, and it is notable that nearly all of the men achieved an unusual degree of popularity among the people of their summer home. Several of them, indeed, were specialists in good-fellowship. Dr. Porter was not the least of these, and his memory is kept green by a mountain that still bears his name. One of the 46 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS higher near-by peaks, lying northwest of the valley toward the Cascade Lakes, had from time immemorial been called West Mountain. After the President of Yale had been coming to the valley for four or five years, about 1875, some one sug- gested that West Mountain be changed to Porter Mountain. It was done by unanimous consent and the most surprising co- operation. Usually there is nothing more difficult than to in- duce people to call a familiar landmark by a new name, but in this case even habit seemed to offer no resistance to the change. So Porter Mountain looms to-day as a memorial monument to the man whom all Keene Valley delighted to honor. The doctor had a deep love for this part of the Adiron- dacks. His favorite lake was the Upper Ausable, and when his waning strength warned him that he had camped upon its shores for the last time, he asked his guide, Melville Trum- bull, to roM^ him around it on a farewell tour. Pausing here and there to glimpse some well-loved vista, the doctor sat in silent contemplation, while the tears welled in his eyes. The old guide said it was the saddest thing he ever saw. Dr. Bushnell was another great favorite in the valley, and his name is still linked with a lovely spot beside it. Way up John's Brook, near the slopes of Marcy, are some pic- turesque falls that are knowTi to-day as Bushnell Falls. They were a favorite haunt of the good doctor, and the guides named them in his honor. He, like Dr. Porter, was an indefatigable tramper of the woods, although he was an invalid and finally succumbed to tuberculosis. Dr. Twichell, the third of this notable triumvirate, did not leave his name in the woods,^ but he left a memory very dear to all who knew him. And who in Keene Valley did not know ''Chaplain Joe," of Sickle's 71st, with his jovial face and much-resounding laugh! Who, of the men, did not wait for him after a Sunday sorv^ice, to stroll into the woods and swap a war-time story in the protective smoke of peaceful pipes! It has been said that Keene Valley was formerly called 1 Tliere is a Twitchell Lake near Big Moose, in the Brown's Tract section. It is sometimes supposed to ho named for Dr. Twicliell, but it was named for a guide who spelt his name with a "t." KEENE VALLEY 47 Keene Flats, and Mr. Shurtleff* thinks that the name originated with Orson Phelps. It was suggested by the various plateaus on each side of the valley, formed, the geologists say, when the latter was the bed of a great lake. In speaking of the unmarred beauty of the spot in 1870, Mr. Shurtleff says : After leaving the main road at the foot of "Spruce Hill," and following the narrow grass-grown driveway up the valley, and ford- ing the river near the Shaw place, only two or three small farmhouses were in sight until one reached John's Brook; from there and on to the end of the valley, and the road at Beede's, there were but five or six houses, and some of them merely log-cabhis. The road followed the course of the river ; scarcely any fences were seen, and, with the open fields on one side, and glimpses of the river and the cloud-touched mountains through the trees, it was like a beau- tiful park ! The few inhabitants were hospitable and kindly. It was a very paradise for sportsmen. In the fall of the year every hill-top had its deer yard, and it was a very common occurrence for the farmers to find two or three deer in company with their cows in the stable yard when they went out for the morning milking. The river and the brooks were alive with trout. For several years T could fill my basket and provide a breakfast for twenty people in an hour's fishing. Among the odd characters in the valley was an old man known to every one as * ' Father Kent. ' ' Ho was tall, lean, and angular. His nose was broken and his lower eyelids drooped. He was deaf, but a regular attendant at church in the lit- tle school-house. He thus qualified his moral standing: *'Mr. Estes is the piousest man in Keene Flats, but I enj'y the most religion." On weeks days he would visit up and dowm the valley. While making a call he always whittled at a short birch stick. On taking leave he would hand the stick, with its little bunch of attached shavings — like a wooden bouquet — to the housewife, for her morning fire. It is reported of this same Father Kent that in his early years he threatened to publicly accuse of witchcraft an erratic and unfriendly neigh- bor. I have not been able to discover either the exact cause of the threat or the name of the offending lady, but the gen- oral fact is remembered by several old residents. If authen- 48 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS tic, it is the only intimation of witchcraft I have ever heard connected with the Adirondacks. The growing popularity of Keene Valley naturally caused many boarding-places and small hotels to be opened. Among the earliest and most popular were ''Dibble's" (later the TahawTis House, which burned in 1908), Munroe Holt's Spread Eagle Cottage, and "Crawford's." These three places were all near the center of the village, others wore scattered along the road in both directions. To the north was " Washbond's," and the Estes House ; to the south was the Maple Grove Moun- tain House, run by Henry Washbond ; and about a mile farther off, on the rising ground at the head of the valley and near Wy ant's studio, was ''Hull's," run by Otis H. Hull. At the head of the valley were the two famous Beede places. One of them is now St. Hubert's Inn, to which the site of the other belongs. The smaller tavern was one built by Phineas Beede about 1877. It stood at the fork of the roads, where Roaring Brook joins the Ausable River. Soon after it was built Phineas Beede died, and his widow and daughter ran the place. This caused it to be called the "Widow Beede 's," a designation which stuck to it for many years and through several changes, despite the fact that it was really run and managed by the daughter and not by the widow. This daughter Alma Beede married R. R. Stetson, and she and her husband continued to run the hotel, advertising it un- der the high-sounding name of the "Astor House." Stetson died after a few years, and later his widow married a Mr. Finney, and the hotel was sometimes given his name, but lo- cally it was nearly always called the "Widow Beede 's." It was torn down years ago, and a modern building belonging to the Ausable Club now occupies the site. ST. Hubert's inn In 1858 Smith Beede bought 600 acres of land, for which he paid the unusual price of 2,000 bushels of wheat. The pur- chase included the wonderful bit of tableland on the trail to the Ausable Lakes. Here, on a site of unsurpassed wildness and beauty, in 1876, he erected a hotel that bore his name and became known far and wide as " Beede 's." The original KEENE VALLEY 49 structure was one hundred and five feet long and three stories high. After ten years of overcrowded success the house was considerably enlarged, but still failed to meet the measure of its popularity. The Alp-like beauty of the spot, combined with its nearness to the twin Ausable Lakes, made it a moun- tain Mecca. Smith Beede's eldest son Orlando was associated with him in the hotel, and gradually superseded his father in the cares of management. Smith Beede died in 1891, at the age of seventy-two. Orlando still survives 1920, and now owns and runs the Keene Valley Inn, lying in the very center of the village. This was originally Blinn's Hotel, built in 1882. Orlando and his father sold the Beede House and land to the Adirondack Mountain Reserve Club in 1890. Just before the deed passed, in March of the same year, the hotel burned down. Not knowing how this might affect the deal, the Beedes began to rebuild at once. The club wanted the land more than the building, however, so the matter was adjusted and the sale went through. The new owners completed the work of reconstruction, and called the new house **St. Hu- bert's Inn," which name it still bears. St. Hubert was a patron saint of hunted deer. In his youth he was a wild and reckless scion of nobility, who offended the proprieties by hunting on fast and holy days. One Good Friday, when he was beating the woods for game, a beautiful stag suddenly rose before him with a crucifix shining brightly between its antlers. The astounded young man then heard a voice reprimanding the ruthless hunter and preaching com- passion for the hunted. He was frightened into conversion on the spot, and became so ardent a game protector that he was ultimately sainted — something which, it is needless to point out, has never happened to any of his apostolic succession. The inn, therefore, is most appropriately named, for it is the headquarters of a club which makes the protection of game and the surrounding forest its special care. The name of the organization is now the Ausable Lake and Mountain Club, controlling the Adirondack Mountain Reserve. The latter was incorporated in 1887, and owtis all of Township 48, Tot- ten and Crossfield's Purchase. This contains 28,000 acres 50 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS and holds the Upper and Lower Ausable Lakes. The public is still admitted to them under certain restrictions, however, and also to the inn. THE GLENMORE SUMMER SCHOOL This was another and the most notable instance of the lure of Keene Valley for the intellectual. Glenmore was a moun- tain farm of 166 acres on East Hill, the western slope of Mount Hurricane. It lay over a thousand feet above the valley, about two miles north of Kecne Center, and com- manded a glorious view. Starting in the original farm-house, the school gradually erected a dozen or more detached build- ings. It was founded in 1889 by Professor Thomas Davidson, known among intellectuals as "the wandering scholar," and ranked by one of them ^ with the twelve most learned men in the world. His learning was indeed prodigious. He spoke the leading dead and living languages with equal facility, and had read every classic work in all of them. He had, moreover, a marvelously retentive memorA% and could quote chapter and verse for any theory he defended or attacked. But he car- ried his great knowledge lightly and imparted it modestly. He was considered at his best when discoursing informally to a few sympathetic listeners, lingering over a finished meal or gathered in a woodland stoppinir-place. At such times his conversation overflowed with a bubbling, unconscious erudi- tion, and left behind it the impress of contagious enthusiasm. He was a born disliker of the formal, and essentially a rover both in thought and action. He did not seek to bequeath the world a system of his own, but rather to point out all that was best in the existing systems. There was nothing of the pedant either in his manner or appearance. He was rather a large, stout, healthy-looking man, with a kindly, rounded face that bosnoke a cultured geniality of disposition. Besides superficial charm of per- sonality, he had the deeper something we call magnetism. He was liked as much as comrade and companion as he was reverenced as a teacher. 1 William Clarke in The Spectator. KEENE VALLEY 51 He was born in an obscure Scottish hamlet in 1840. He attended a very good parochial school where his remarkable gifts soon made him a teacher as well as a scholar. At six- teen years of age he w^on a competitive scholarship at the University of Aberdeen from which, after winning several others, he was graduated with honors in 18G0. Then began his unusual career of peripatetic teaching, with interludes of travel all over Europe. He went everywhere, but stayed nowhere. Finally he crossed the ocean into Canada, then crossed the border into the United States, and ultimately drifted into Keene Valley. Here he found the ideal location for the dream of a lifetime. Here he stayed longer than he had ever stayed in any other place before, and here in 1900 he died and was buried.^ The general scheme of the Glenmore School can best be given by quoting from the founder's prospectus: The aim of the school, therefore, will be twofold — (1) scientific, (2) practical. The former it will seek to reacli by means of lectures on the general outlines of the history and theory of the various cul- ture sciences, and by classes, conversations, and carefully directed pri- vate study in regard to their details. The latter it will endeavor to realize by encouraging its members to conduct their life in accordance with the highest ascertainable ethical laws, to strive after "plain living and high thinking," to discipline themselves in simplicity, kindliness, thoughtfulness, helpfulness, regularity, and promptness. In the life at Glenmore an endeavor will be made to combine solid study and serious conversation with reinvigorating rest and abundant and delightful exercise. It is hoped that this may become a place of annual gathering for open-minded persons interested in the serious things of life. . . . The retirement and quiet of Glenmore seem espe- cially favorable for such things, and the numerous picnics and eve- ning bonfires in the woods offer provision for the lighter moods. . . . Every meal at Glenmore will be opened by a few minutes' reading. The school traced back to the Concord School of Philosophy, in which Professor Davidson had a formative share, and which he attempted to duplicate at Farmington, Conn., before 1 Tliose wisliin? for more details than can be piven here, will find them in Mrniorials of Thomas Davidson, by William Knight. Ginn and Company, Boston and London. 1907. 52 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS moving to the Adirondacks. Glenmore was, therefore, but the final and more permanent housing of these tentative begin- nings. They, in turn, were the outgrowth of societies which he had founded both here and abroad, and which he called the "Fellowship of the New Life," for the idea of fellowship — the essential brotherhood of man — was basic to all his efforts. He hoped that Glenmore would in time cease to be a prepara- tory school and would develop into a perpetual and inde- pendent colony of the elect. In this he was disappointed, but the school itself lasted longer than such Utopian ventures usually do, and to that ex- tent must be accounted a success. The attendance was actu- ally small but comparatively large. Shredded Greek for breakfast is obviously not for the many, and only the chosen few can express their lighter moods around the camp fire by discussing Kant^s "Pure Reason," or Aristotle's "Ni<}0- machean Ethics." But there is no doubt that these few carried away the last- ing impress of an uplifting experience, dominated by the per- sonality of a remarkable man. No sincerer pathfinder ever blazed the upland trails of thought than he who taught among the groves of Glenmore. If his message was too intellectual for the masses, it was still intended to benefit them ultimately. Nor did he hold himself aloof from personal efforts to up- lift them. The last two winters of his life were devoted to what he called the "Breadwinners' College," a settlement for Russian Jews on the East Side of New York. After his death in 1900, two of his disciples, Professor C. M. Bakewell of Yale, and Stephen F. Weston, Dean of An- tioch College, attempted to carry on the Glenmore School. But it depended too much on the personality of its lost leader to thrive without him. Disintegration set in, and the school was closed. It passed into other hands and was reopened as a summer boarding-place. CHAPTER XXXIII OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS OESON SCHOFIELD PHELPS, guide and philosopher, belonged to Keene Valley and Charles Dudley Warner. He lived in the shade of the one, and in the light of the other. He was not a great guide. Indeed, many did not consider him even a good one. He delighted in showing the way but not in preparing the camp. His neighbors openly rated him as both lazy and shiftless, and of no genius could it more truly be said that he was not a hero to his valley. He went hunting or fishing as a housewife goes to market. What he lacked in sporting zest, however, was offset by a love of nature and a poetic cast of thought that made him a favorite with some of the most intellectual men of his day. He was born in Wethersfield, Vt., on May 6, 1817. About 1830 he came into the Schroon Lake country with his father, who was a surveyor. The elder Phelps had to trace out some old lot lines, and Ms boy helped him. Their work gave them a glimpse of some of the higher mountains, and Orson con- ceived a youthful but abiding love for them. He returned home with his father, but only to wait for an opportunity of coming back to the wilderness. He made it a year or two later by finding employment at the Adirondack Iron Works. He stayed there till Mr. Henderson's death. Then he turned from a commercial career to the more congenial freedom of an outdoor life. He wandered over to Keene Valley and set- tled there permanently. He married a native maiden by the name of Melinda Lamb, who developed oddities of tempera- ment and tricks of speech that matched well with those of her more conspicuous spouse. She never fell under the charm of Mr. Warner's pen, however, and so remained in the penum- bra of the literary lime-light that was focused on her hus- band. After his marriage, Phelps built a little home for himself 53 54 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS and wife in a cozy nook near Prospect Hill, a little off the main road. Near the house is a bubbling stream and some pretty falls, to which Phelps's name has been attached. In this spot he lived and died. His hobby, which developed into a remunerative specialty, was climbing mountains. This ex- clusiveness led to his being called ''Old Mountain Phelps" — a name in which he took both pride and pleasure. When asked to lead the way up some unfamiliar trail, he would often say: ''So you want Old Mountain Phelps to show you the way, do you? Well, I callerlate he kin do it." His favorite mountain was Marcy, and he boasted of hav- ing climbed it over a hundred times. In 1849 he blazed the first trail to its summit from the east, going in from Lower Ausable Lake and then passing Haystack and the head of Panther Gorge. Later he cut what was known as the Bartlett Mountain trail. About 1850 he guided two ladies over it to the summit of Marcy. They were the first women to make the complete ascent, and the feat of getting them safely to the top and back gave Phelps his first local renown.^ Old Phelps, like Dr. Johnson, owes the lasting and intimate quality of his fame to a clever biographer. In the "Atlantic" for May, 1878, Charles Dudley Warner published an essay en- titled "The Primitive Man," ^ introducing a new discovery to the world — an unwashed Thoreau of guidedom. As a re- sult Old Phelps awoke one morning to find himself famous. He inquired into the cause, read it, and liked it. Thereafter he devoted himself, too obviously at times, to living up to the literary halo in which he had been most unexpectedly lassoed. It was a big halo and it got around his feet and tripped him up now and then, so that disappointed pilgrims returned from his shrine to accuse Warner of having raised exaggerated 1 In tliis connection it is of interest to note that when Mr. Lossing, the his- torian, made an ascent of Marcy from the west, about 1860, he was accompanied by his wife. In speaking of the hardships of the climb for a lady, he says: "Mrs. Lossing, we were afterwards informed by the oldest hunter and guide in all that region (John Cheney), is only the third woman who has ever accomplished the difficult feat." (See Lossing's The Hudson, p. 30.) This would look as if Cheney knew of Phelps's two ladies, but had heard of no others attempting the climb in the interval. 2 This will be found, slightly revised, under the caption "A Character Study," in the Backlog Edition of his works, Vol. VI. OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS 55 hopes. The deception, such as it was, however, was certainly not intentional. The writer says nothing that is not essen- tially true, but he says it with such grace and charm of phrase that we forget that a squeaky voice, the reluctance to use soap, and allied oddities may be less alluring in actual contact than in the pages of a book. This, it seems to me, is the most seri- ous charge that can be brought against Mr. Warner's inimi- table description of his primitive man. He says : You might be misled by the shaggy suggestion of Old Phelps's given name — Orson — into the notion that he was a mighty hunter, with the -fierce spirit of the Berserkers in his veins. Nothing could be farther from the truth. The hirsute and grisly sound of Orson expresses only his entire affinity with the untamed and the natural, an uncouth but gentle passion for the freedom and wildness of the forest. Orson Phelps has only those unconventional and humorous qualities of the bear which make the animal so beloved in literature; and one does not think of Old Phelps so much as a lover of nature, — to use the senti- mental slang of the period, — as a part of nature itself. His appearance at the time when as a "guide" he began to come into public notice fostered this impression, — a sturdy figure, with long body and short legs, clad in a woolen shirt and butternut-colored trousers repaired to the point of picturesqueness, his head surmounted by a limp, light-brown felt hat, frayed away at the top, so that his yellowish hair grew out of it like some nameless fern out of a pot. His tawny hair was long and tangled, matted now many years past the possibility of being entered by a comb. His features were small and delicate, and set in the frame of a reddish beard, the ra^or having mowed away a clearing about the sensitive mouth, which was not seldom wreathed Mith a childlike and charming smile. Out of this hirsute environment looked the small gray eyes, set near together ; eyes keen to observe, and quick to express change of thought ; eyes that made you believe instinct can grow into philosophic judgment. His feet and hands were of aristocratic smallness, although the latter were not worn away by ablutions; in fact, they assisted his toilet to give you the impression that here w^as a man who had just come out of the ground, — a real son of the soil, whose appearance was partially ex- plained by his humorous relation to soap. "Soap is a thing," he said, "that I hain't no kinder use for." His clothes seemed to have been put on him once for all, like the bark of a tree, a long time ago. The observant stranger was sure to be puzzled by the contrast of this realistic and uncouth exterior with the internal fineness, amounting to 56 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS refinement and culture, that shone through it all. What communion had supplied the place of our artificial breeding to this man? Perhaps his most characteristic attitude was sitting on a log, with a short pipe in his mouth. If ever man was formed to sit on a log, it was Old Phelps. He was essentially a contemplative person. Walk- ing on a countiy road, or anywhere in the "open," was irksome to him. He had a shambling, loose-jointed gait, not unlike that of the bear: his short legs bowed out, as if they had been more in the habit of climbing trees than of walking. On land, if we may use that ex- pression, he was something like a sailor ; but, once in the rugged trail or the unmarked route of his native forest, he was a different person, and few pedestrians could compete with him. The vulgar estimate of his contemporaries, that reckoned Old Phelps "lazy," was simply a failure to comprehend the condition of his being. It is the unjustness of civilization that it sets up uniform and artificial standards for all persons. The primitive man suffers by them much as the contempla- tive philosopher does, when one happens to arrive in this busy, fussy world. If the appearance of Old Phelps attracts attention, his voice, when first heard, invariably startles the listener. A small, high-pitched, half-querulous voice, it easily rises into the shrillest falsetto; and it has a quality in it that makes it audible in all the tempests of the forest, or the roar of the rapids, like the piping of a boatswain's whistle at sea in a gale. He has a way of letting it rise as his sentence goes on, or when he is opposed in argument, or wishes to mount above other voices in the conversation, until it dominates everything. Heard in the depths of the woods, quavering aloft, it is felt to be as much a part of nature, an original force, as the northwest wind or the .scream of the hen-hawk. When he is pottering about the camp-fire, trying to light his pipe with a twig held in the flame, he is apt to begin some philosophical observation in a small, slow, stumbling voice, which seems about to end in defeat ; when he puts on some unsuspected force, and the sentence ends in an insistent shriek. Horace Greeley had such a voice, and could regulate it in the same manner. But Phelps's voice is not seldom plaintive, as if touched by the dreamy sadness of the woods themselves. When Old Mountain Phelps was discovered, he was, as the reader has already guessed, not understood by his contemporaries. His neighbors, farmers in the secluded valley, had many of them grown thrifty and prosperous, cultivating the fertile meadows, and vigor- ously attacking the timbered mountains; while Phelps, with not much more faculty of acquiring property than the roaming deer, had pur- ■OLD MOUXTAIX" PHELPS OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS 57 sued the even tenor of the life in the forest on which he set out. They would have been surprised to be told that Old Phelps owned more of what makes the value of the Adirondacks than all of them put together, but it was true. This woodsman, this trapper, this hunter, this fisherman, this sitter on a log, and philosopher, was the real proprietor of the region over which he was ready to guide the stranger. It is true that he had not a monopoly of its geography or its topography (though his knowledge was superior in these respects) ; there were other trappers, and more deadly hunters, and as intrepid guides: but Old Phelps was the discoverer of the beauties and sub- limities of the mountains; and, when city strangers broke into the region, he monopolized the appreciation of these delights and wonders of nature. I suppose that in all that country he alone had noticed the sunsets, and observed the delightful processes of the seasons, taken pleasure in the woods for themselves, and climbed mountains solely for the sake of the prospect. He alone understood what was meant by "scenery." In the eyes of his neighbors, who did not know that he was a poet and a philosopher, I dare say he appeared to be a slack provider, a rather shiftless trapper and fisherman ; and his passionate love of the forest and the mountains, if it was noticed, was accounted to him for idleness. He was prone to nickname the natural wonders that he loved best. Mount Marcy he always called "Mercy." He held it to be the stateliest peak, commanding the finest view in the world. People would sometimes speak of the Alps or the Himalayas as having mountainous merit. But such idle talk annoyed him, and he would squelch it with a sneer. "I caller- late you hain't never been atop o' Mercy," he would say, and turn away in disgust. His own joy in standing there he ex- pressed as a feeling of ''heaven up-h'isted-ness." Loath as he was to hear his favorite ''Mercy" disparaged, he was very careful about overpraising it or any of his pet \iews. He seemed to sense the value of surprise in the reve- lation of natural beauties, and to have the instinct of the true artist for the avoidance of an anticlimax. He also brought a strange temperance to bear on his enjoyment of nature. He sipped his choicest vistas as a connoisseur sips his choicest wines. He once led Mr. Warner and some others to the Upper Ausable Lake, near which rise the uniquely beautiful Gothics. The party wished to camp on the south side of the 58 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS lake, which would give them a constant view of the mountains. But Phelps objected, much to their surprise, and urged the north shore, which did not command the desired view. The pros and cons were debated, and finally Phelps drawled out: ''Waal, now, them Gothics ain't the kinder scenery yer want ter hog down!^^ Outside of nature, however, there was another love and another influence that helped to mould his character : this was Horace Greeley's ''Weekly Tribune." The "Try-bune" Phelps called it. It became his Bible. He not only read it; he soaked and wallowed in it, and then oozed Greeleyisms to lard the lean understandings of his associates. His constant reference to the paper led many of his neighbors to dub him "Old Greeley," and, as a matter of fact, he resembled the eccentric editor in both looks and voice. The "Tribune" at this time published much of Tennyson's poetry, and Old Phelps became very fond of it, largely, no doubt, as Mr. Warner suggests, because they were both lotus-eaters. Despite a local aloofness engendered by his Tribunal educa- tion and his owti philosophical "speckerlations," he was eager for contact with men of real intellect. Keene Valley was un- usually full of them, and several of its finest spirits honored Phelps with their serious friendship. How much he valued it, the following will illustrate. The talk turned one day to the making of money, and Mr. Warner asked him if he would plan his life differently if he had it to live over again. ' ' Yes, ' ' he answered thoughtfully, "but not about money. To have had hours such as I have had in these mountains, and with such men as Dr. Bushnell, Dr. Shaw and Mr. Twichell, and others I could name, is worth all the money the world could give." He met these distinguished men on an easy footing of equality. He suffered from no abashed sense of their impor- tance. Those whom he particularly liked he called by their first names. He always addressed Dr. Twitchell as "Joe." He often visited in Hartford, where he had a married daugh- ter, besides several distinguished friends. One morning he walked into the Warner house and met Mrs. Warner coming downstairs. She had seen him but a couple of times and was OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS 59 not aware that they were on an intimate footing. She was, therefore, a little taken aback to be greeted with, ''Good morning, Susie ! Charlie in I " He tested every one by his own standards, and strangers stood or fell in his estimation by these alone. Nature was the test, and he used it much as a doctor would a toxin on a doubt- ful patient. After leading his subject to his laboratory, he would suddenly inject, through the eye, a dash of sunset or a dainty bit of landscape. Then he would withdraw to a log, and watch for the reaction. Its degree of intensity decided the rating. Those who didn't react became outcasts, and no other merits could restore them to his favor. He once guided two or three young girls up Mount ''Mercy." On reaching the top they glanced around irrever- ently, and then fell to talking about clothes and fashions. They must have known that they had passed some dangerous spots, but the greatest danger of all they probably never dreamed of — the itching desire of the disgusted Phelps "ter kick the silly things off my mounting." His vocabulary was limited but extremely picturesque. He got his effects with few colors, as the artists say. He was particularly fond of working one word — like his favorite mountain — for all it was worth. Asked whither a to- morrow's tramp would lead, he produced this gem: "Waal, I callerlate, if they rig up the callerlation they callerlate on, we '11 go to the Boreas." He made a nice distinction between a "reg'lar walk" and a "random scoot." The former meant over a beaten track ; the latter, away from it. A tight place in the woods became a "reg'lar random scoot of a rigmarole." Assuring some one that no water had struck his back for forty years, he concluded with, "I don't believe in this etarnal soz- zlin'." As Dr. Twitchell once said of him, the dictionary in I; his mouth became as clay in the hands of the potter. The constant reading of the "Tribune" and frequent con- tact with literary men, led to an almost inevitable result : Old [Phelps finally burst into print, and no less a paper than the j" Essex County Republican" became the willing purveyor of |his writings. They took the form of both verse and prose, and ranged in subject from natural history to philosophy. 60 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS His * ' Speckerlations " in this line carried the hall-mark of the highest excellence — they are utterly incomprehensible to the average reader. One of them bore the title "Why Have Miracles Ceased?" His nature writings, on the other hand, revealed unusually keen observation and a gift of expression truly remarkable for a backwoodsman whose primitive schooling had ceased when he was fifteen. One of these articles, called **The Growth of a Tree," attracted sufficient attention to be repro- duced in pamphlet form.^ The Manager of the Beaufort Gardens, in London, sent for a copy, and spoke of it with commendation. Professor Peck of the New York Museum of Natural History wrote a per- sonal letter to the author after reading the pamphlet. **I thank you for writing it, and wish you were a botanist," he said. "You would do some good work with your natural apti- tude for close observation and your faciUties for investiga- tion." This and other of Phelps's writings were so good, compara- tively, that many people were inclined to believe that what appeared over his name was largely the result of much blue- penciling. I am assured, however, that such was not the case, and that his manuscripts underwent no radical changes in the editorial office. If this is so, the quality of his literary output is certainly surprising. I give as a sample a few verses of one of the best of his longer poems, which is full of primitive poetic feeling and of his genuine love for the mountains. MOUNTAIN SONG How dear to my heart are the glorious old mountains, When for thirty years past I recall scenes to view, Their wild mossy gorges and sweet crystal fountains Stand out now hefore me as vivid as new. Their Avalanche stript faces that glitter in sunlight With myriads of crystals that dazzle the eyes ; Their rough ragged rocks horizontal and upright, Proclaim their Creator must have truly been wise. The old feldspar mountains, with their sweet crystal fountains Tlie evergreen mountains we all love so well. 1 The title-page reads: '•The drouth of a Tree from Its Germ or .SVerf, by 0. S. Phelps, written for the Essex County RepnhJiran and republished in pamphlet form — containing poem Autumn Leaves." No date. OLD MOUNTAIN PHELPS 61 The deep shady forests spread over these highlands Of the old sable spruce and lighter green fir-tree, And the lovely green moss that covers the lowlands Combine in a picture we seldom can see. Then higher up still are the bare rocky summits, With their Matterhorn spires towering up to the sky, And the thick stunted fir trees that fringe the bare granite Can creep upward no more than five thousand feet higli. Tlie broad rapid rivers that flow down from your valleys, And brooks without number coming down from your heights. And long dancing cascades that glitter like lilies. And waterfalls singing their sweet songs in the night. Through the deep rock-bound chasms the waters are flowing O'er crystals and opals that glitter like diamonds In the bright rays of sunlight down through the trees dancing. And washed by pure water that came down from highlands. The clear little lakes are so peacefully sleeping, At the feet of these giants so tall and so grand, That they look like the tears of many years weeping, That have flown down their cheeks and have mingled with sand. And broader lakes still, lying in the lone forests. That reflect all their grandeur like mirrors of glass, And make the great play-ground of thousands of tourists, That meet here in summer their spare time to pass. My time is fast passing to view these grand mountains. And the grand scenes of Nature that about them I see. Of great boulder rocks and their sweet crystal fountains, Fresh from their Creator they have all come to me. And I must soon leave to unborn generations. Those scenes that so long have been dear to my sight, Who will hereafter view them with varied emotions. And volumes about them great Authors will write. Oh! the old feldspar mountains, with their sweet crystal fountains, The evergreen mountains we all love so well! Phelps lived to be eighty-eight years old — showing that lon- gevity has little to do with soap and water. He became very feeble in his last years, however, and spent them in the seclu- sion of his brook-side home. He also became more truly pic- turesque than ever. His long, matted hair and fanlike beard turned a most beautiful pure white, and sitting, as he often did in summer, in a doorway flanked with flaming sunflowers, he suggested a Northern Rabindranath Tagore, dreaming of a mountainous Nirvana. Behind him, through the open door- 62 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS way, could be seen a kitchen festooned with many strings of drying apples. These appeared to offer his only visible means of sustenance. There was a garden, to be sure, but it gave the impression of being kept for contemplative pur- poses rather than practical ones. He also kept a store on the same principle, occasionally selling one of Stoddard's guide- books or a portrait of himself. During these sunset years the Rev. Samuel T. Lowrie of Philadelphia, who had built near by and wished to control the surrounding property, induced Phelps to sell on condition that he and his wife might live in the house until their death. Old Phelps died there on April 14, 1005. Soon afterward the widow went to live with a married daughter in Hartford, and died there in 1917. There were six surviving children, three daughters and three sons. Only one of them still lives in Keene Valley — a son, who is strangely reminiscent of his fa- ther in looks, in manner, and in a deep-seated love of nature. But he has never been Warnerized. After Phelps died and Mrs. Phelps decided to move away, Dr. Lowrie tore down their old home, and what might have been a wayside shrine for a few sentimentalists exists no more. Nothing but Phelps Falls remains to perpetuate the memory of a unique figure among Adirondack guides. He was held by them in but slight esteem, and was considered a mere fumbler at most of their arts, but he possessed one un- known to the best of their guild: he could hallow a ''random scoot" through the forests into something akin to questing for the Holy Grail. CHAPTER XXXIV LONG LAKE THIS is the longest, straightest, and narrowest lake in the woods, having a length of thirteen miles. In width it varies from a few rods to nearly a mile at the broadest point. In reality it is but the widened channel of the Raquette River, which flows into its southern extremity and out of its northern apex. Owing to this fact, according to Wallace, it was at one time called ''Wide River." Hoffman says the Indian name was In-ca-pah-co (anglice, Lindermere), from the predomi- nance of basswood, or American linden, on its shores. All but the extreme upper end of the lake lies in Townships 21 and 22 of the Totten and Crossfield Purchase. Under the allotment of 1771 ^ the first of these, to the south, was drawn by Philip Livingston, while Township 22 fell to Theophilus Anthony. After the Revolution these two names appear to- gether as joint owners of the northern half of To\NTiship 22, but by 1786 Anthony appears to have become the sole owner. His name, moreover, is still perpetuated in the township. A little west of Long Lake, and just back of Buck Mountain, are three small but very beautiful little lakes, known as the Anthony Ponds. Each one is different, and they have a pro- gressive charm. Their harmony of detail is such as to sug- gest artificiality. They appear like miniature models of na- ture's first conception of a perfect lake. The beauty of First Pond inspired Louise Morgan Sill to write a poem about it. About a quarter of a mile from First Pond, Theophilus An- thony built a summer house in the woods. Old guides can still point out the traces of the road he used, the outlines of his clearing, and the site of his long-vanished house. He would seem to be the first New Yorker to own a pleasure-camp in the Adirondacks and to pass his vacations there. As the pioneer of uncommissioned lingerers in these woods, it is regrettable 1 See Chap. IX, "Totten and Crossfield Purchase." 64 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS that he kept no diary and left no records of his summer out- ings. It would be so interesting to know how he reached his secluded lodge and how he whiled away his leisure there; but all details are denied us. About all we know of the gentleman is that he was born in New York city in 1735, and died there in 1814; that he owned a farm on what is now Murray Hill, and that he was a member of the famous Committee of Safety.^ He was evidently a man of standing, of means, and of leisure ; otherwise he never could have visited his summer home. The record of the first settlement on the shores of Long Lake is contained in a little book, now exceedingly rare, writ- ten by Dr. John Todd,^ a well-known preacher and author of his day. John Todd was born in Rutland, Vt., on October 9, 1800.' His parents were poor, and his boyhood knew the hardships of poverty. He was ambitious and industrious, however, and managed to prepare himself for college. He was graduated from Yale in 1822. He taught during the fol- lowing year, then entered the Andover Theological Seminary, and in 1827 was ordained minister of the Congregational Church in Groton, Mass. From there he was called to North- ampton in 1833, to Philadelphia in 1836, and finally to Pitts- field in 1842. Here he remained until his death. He retired from the pulpit in 1872, and died in 1873. Besides being an effective preacher, he was a voluminous and popular writer, leaving some thirty volumes to his credit, several of which were translated into many foreign tongues. What at the time was probably considered the least of these, has become historically the most valuable to-day. His "Long Lake" is a blend of Adirondack enthusiasm and pastoral sen- timentality of the lachrymose type. The good doctor weeps often and easily, and his mountain flock weeps with him ; but 1 His brother wan Capt Xicliolaa N. Anthony, who commandrd a company of New York Militia durinj^ tlic Revolution, and who, being a blacksmith by trade, forged the enormoiis iron chain that was swung across the Hudson to prevent British ships from going up the river. 2 Long Lake E. P. Little. Pittsfield, Mass. 1845. 3 Life and Letters of John Todd, by Dr. John E. Todd [his son]. Harper & Bros. 187G LONG LAKE 65 between tears he gives a glimpse of undiscovered country that has much value for these pages. He was among the earliest men of note to go to the Adiron- dacks for the pleasures of hunting and fishing and the outdoor life. He made his first visit in September, 1841, in company with Professor Emmons the geologist. In the course of their wanderings they came to Long Lake, where "scattered along towards the head of the lake, we found a little community of eight or nine families." The head of the lake is the south- western end. The community consisted of widely scattered houses, built on both shores, and extending half-way up the lake. These people were found to be literally in a God-forsaken condition. The doctor's pastoral instincts were naturally aroused, and he offered to furnish some religious instruction and moral uplift, and the suggestion met with favor. A church service was arranged for and the visiting pastor inaugurated "the first Sabbath that ever broke upon the lake. No hounds were sent to chase the deer. No fish were caught. The loons screamed unmolested." Some of the more enthusiastic younger sisters rowed around the lake — "some twelve or fourteen miles" — and picked up outlying members of the congregation. They met in a little log house covered with hemlock bark.^ Men, women, children, and dogs were all there. They couldn't sing, "for none had learned the songs of Zion in a strange land." But the doctor preached the first sermon that they or the wilderness had ever heard. After it both he and his hearers wept. A few days later he took his departure and "shed fresh tears at parting," for he never expected to see "these few sheep in the wilder- ness again." He came back, however, in August, 1842, and found condi- tions slightly improved. "In all things," he writes, "there was evident and striking improvement. Some new families had come in, and among them some professed Christians." The result was that a Temperance Society had been formed, iTliis was a scliooMiousc that stood on the west slioro of tlie laki», on Lot 71, Township 21, diagonally across from Long Lake village 66 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS and a Sunday School started. The doctor preached to them again, and then decided on a bold step. He found eleven will- ing souls — five men and six women — and he organized them into a church of God, by the name of "The First Congrega- tionalist Church on Long Lake," which was also the first or- ganized church in the Adirondacks. On this occasion he baptized eight children. After this he left them again, but returned for a third \dsit in the summer of 1843. This time he brought with him some books and money he had collected for the little church "planted in the wilderness." He also agitated the erection of a church building, and secured the gift of an acre of land for the purpose. It was cleared and in good condition, "on a point which projects into the lake." This is all that is said about the site, and it does not appear that it was ever built on. After returning home from this visit, Dr. Todd found that the children of his Sunday School had collected another purse for the Long Lakers — sufficient to support a missionary for six weeks. A young man named Parker was found and sent in to the settlement, where he eventually stayed for more than a year, subsisting, after the first six weeks, on the meager support the natives gave him. Although he returned once or twice in later years. Dr. Todd paid what might be called his last pastoral visit to the settlement in 1844. Again he found that new families had moved in, "so that the colony now con- sists of eighteen families and about one hundred souls. "^ 1 Throuah the kindness of Mr. Henry D. Kellogg of Long Lake, who made a searcli of the old Town records for me, I am able to give the probable names of the above faniilios: The S or 9 families which Dr. Todd Those who came later, making the 18 found on his first visit 1841: families of 1844: Joel Plumley, Matthew Beach, David Keller, William Wood, James 1 _ . David Smith, Robert I ^^'S'^'^^' Amos Hough, William Kellogg, Samuel Renne, Zenas Parker, Peter Van Valkenburg, Williiim Austin, John Clark, Isaac B. C. Robinson, James McCauley, Lyman Mix, John Dornbnrgh, Burton Burlingame. Daniel B. Catlin. LONG LAKE 67 After this the outside interest he had aroused in the colony flagged, and his own abated considerably upon learning that the missionary he had sent up there, and who had consented to stay on without salary, had been starved out by his unap- preciative flock. There is no doubt that Dr. Todd's presence and pastoral enthusiasm roused these people to a momentary wave of re- ligious fervor. But how quickly it passed, and how little fruit it bore, is attested by some interesting letters on the subject written by another clergyman, J. T. Headley.^ He made a visit to Long Lake in 1846, and writes of it as follows : Now here is a colony, called the Long Lake Colony, about which much has been said, much sympathy excited, and on Avhieh more or less money has been expended. And what is its condition? It has been established for man}- years, and by this time it ought to furnish some inducements to the farmer who would locate here, nearly fifty miles from a post-office or store, and half that distance from a good mill. But what is the truth respecting it? Not a man here supports himself from his farm; and I can see no gain since I was here two years ago. The church which was organized some time since was never worthy of the name of one : the few men who composed it, with some few exceptions, being anything but religious men. I was told by one of the chief men here that one man now constituted the entire "Congregational Church of Long Lake." There are no meetings held on the Sabbath, not even a Sabbath school. The truth is, the people here, as a general thing, would not give a farthing for any religious privileges, indeed would rather be without them; and instead of this colony being a center from which shall radiate an immense popula- tion, covering the whole of this wild region, it will drag on a miserable existence, composed, two-thirds of it, by those who had rather hunt than work. I do not mean to disparage this central region of New York ; but I would divest it of the romance of dreamers, and the false- hood of land speculators. From a letter written a year later, in 1847, I quote the f olloAving : Paddling leisurely up Long Lake, I was struck by the desolate ap- pearance of the settlement. Scarcely an improvement had been made since I was last here, while some clearings had been left to go back to 1 Letters from the Bnclwoods. John S. Taylor, New York. 1850. 68 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS their original wildness. Disappointed purchasers, lured by extrava- gant statements, had given up in despondency, and left. This paragraph and the last line of the preceding one obvi- ously refer to some one else than Dr. Todd. But before leaving this gentleman and his book, we must revert to the one important historical fact which it gives us — that some eight- een families were living on the shores of Long Lake as early as 1844. At this date no other lake could boast of more than an occasional hermit or hunter. The settlement which Dr. Todd discovered represented, of course, a gradual growth of several years, and there are for- tunately some records to show when it began. In Colonel Fox's "History of the Lumber Industry in the State of New York,"^ there is a lengthy table giving the date of the first settlement and of the first sawmill — for the two went almost hand in hand — in every Towni in the State. And here w^e find that the first settlement on Long Lake was made as early as 1830 - — a date amply confirmed by local tradition. The pio- neer was Joel Plumbley, the father of ''honest John," and of the first white child to be born in the region — Jeremiah Plumbley. The sawmill was a much later development in this instance, however. It did not come till 1836, when E. H. St. John, the second settler, built a sawmill on South Pond Stream, near where it empties into the lake. He did not build it for him- self, however, but for a man named Hammond, who was a large owner of land around Long Lake. He paid St. John partly in money, and partly in a deed for 800 acres. This became the "St. John Clearing" at the head of the lake, still kno^vn as such to-day. Besides building a mill, St. John's contract called for the cutting out of the first road between Newcomb and Long Lake. The mill does not appear to have amounted to much, for Dr. Todd, speaking of the post-office being half a hundred miles oflF, says "and the nearest mill that deserves the name of a mill, is not much nearer." Ilead- 1 See ffixth Annual Report (1000) of the Forest. Fish and Game Commission, p. 237. 2 Ibid., p. 293. LONG LAKE G9 ley, in the letter I haA^e quoted, also refers to the remoteness of a mill. Thus did the settlement start, but its comparatively rapid growth is not so explicitly recorded. There seemed to be a clue to it, however, in Headley's allusion to '*the falsehoods of land speculators," which had lured people to the spot by ''ex- travagant statements." Acting on this clue, I was fortunate enough to discover the following pamphlet, of which I give the title-page in full : An Attempt to Present Tlie CLAIMS OF LONG I^KE to tbe Consideration of all those who are In search after good land at a Low Price. BY AMOS DEAN One of tlie proprietors. Albany: Printed by Joel Munsell. 1840 Following this the author addresses a preface **To the Re- ceiver of this Pamphlet," of whom certain specific services are asked : 1st. That you will take an early occasion to post or fasten up in as conspicuous a place as possible, in places of the most public resort, such as the counting rooms of stores, and the bar rooms of public houses, the notices which accompany this pamphlet. 2nd. That you will allow yourself to be referred to on the subjects embraced in this pamphlet ; and that you will allow the community in the midst of which you live to understand that you are so referred to. 3rd. That if application is made to you for more particular infor- mation, as specified in the accompanying: notice, you will refer the applicant to this pamphlet; direct his attention, etc., etc. After making these requests, the author explains why he does so, by saying that *'we all owe one another something.''^ There follows a disquisition on the theory of human interde- 70 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS pendence and the moral obligation of mutual aid, closing with this Pecksniflfian peroration : If for these or any other reasons, you think proper to render me these services, I shall feel under great obligations to yon ; if not, it is in the highest degree probable that a benevolent neighbor of yours in an adjoining town will render them, and thus deprive you of the honor of being referred to in this matter, a thing which no doubt you will very much regret. With very great respect, Truly Yours, Amos Dean. In the body of the pamphlet Mr. Dean says that he has become, *' jointly with another, the proprietor of almost 12,000 acres of land lying principally around the head of Long Lake." He then admits that these lands are for sale, and at a very low price — from one to three dollars an acre, according to location. He further admits — for he is winsomely frank about it all — that while this is the price rwiv, he cannot say how long it will be. But he fears the period will be brief, surprisingly brief. Such opportunities always are. They knock but once, and those who fail to answer the summons drag out the rest of their lives in poignant regret. It is, indeed, difficult to understand how any could be deaf to the clarion call of the Dean pamphlet. It offers lands that are remarkably fertile, comparing favorably with best farm- ing sections of the State. It calls attention to the vast ore beds near by, and suggests that they ?naij be discovered on any of the salable lots. The pamphlet admits that Long Lake at the moment appears somewhat detached, not to say, isolated. This is to be speedily changed, however. The Carthage Road, now six miles away, is to be turnpiked to the shores of the lake and to skirt its borders. Then a railroad, traversing the mountains, is to pass that way. And last, not least, the proj- ect of a continuous water communication between the St. Lawrence and Lake Champlain, is to make Long Lake a high- way of boat traffic and the settlement on its shores a little Detroit in the wilderness. These schemes were in the air at the time,^ it must be ad- 1 See Chap. XL, "Railroads." LONG LAKE 71 mitted, but Mr. Dean gives them a prospective probability that smacks of certainty. He reinforces many of his state- ments by lengthy quotations from the official reports of Pro- fessor Emmons, of 0. L. Holley, Surveyor-General of the State, and of George E. Hotfman, chief engineer of the water communication project. Nor is Dr. Todd overlooked. Copious extracts are given from the most visionary pages of his little book. The result is that we have a pamphlet based on some undeniable facts, but strongly qualified by the desire to sell land. Mr. Dean contributes little of specific historic value, except- ing w^hon he speaks of the lots already sold and under contract, giving their numbers, namely: 72, 60, 48, 71, 59, 82, 70, 81, 79, 78, 89, 88, and 99.^ The last one belonged to one Sargeant, who had, we are told, fifty acres under cultivation. Lot 82 contains Long Lake village to-day. The Dean pamphlet was not published till 1846. It cannot, therefore, have been an influence in the size of the colony which Dr. Todd found in 1844, but it does help to explain it. Mr. Dean speaks of having become interested "with another." The other was undoubtedly the Mr. Hammond who was the original owner of the land and sold St. John his clearing. The further inference is that Mr. Hammond had done some effective advertising on his own account before the mellifluous pen of ^Ir. Dean sought to bring the Long Lake property "to the attentive consideration of the young men of New England, who are anxiously looking for a home, in the enjoyment of which they hope to spend long, happy, and useful lives." As the first settlers came largely from New England, it is evident that Mr. Dean hoped for recruits from the same quar- ter. There is no evidence that he secured them, however. Indeed, according to Headley's letter of 1847, the drift of emigration at that time seemed to be very decidedly away from the settlement. The two graves of the first persons to be buried at Long Lake are still in evidence. The first death to occur was that iTliese numbers belong to the Richards Snrvey of ToAvnship 21, made about 1830. The lots, of 200 acres each, arc shown on a map that accompanied the pamphlet. They can be found to-day on the large colored map issued by the Conservation Commission. 72 A HISTORY OF THE ADIKONDACKS of a sixteen-year-old daughter of one of the Sargeants. This was in 1841, for Dr. Todd on his first visit speaks of being taken to the new-made grave of this ''solitary sleeper." An- other was soon dug beside it. The brother of one of the set- tlers, who had come for a visit, went hunting alone, became lost in the woods, and died of starvation. His body, when found, was placed beside the other. Long Lake had two hermits — that is if two hermits can live on the same lake without forfeiting their integrity of title. Does the conjunction of two hermits on one spot precipitate a community, or does it merely augment a condition? And at what point in the density of neighbors doe^ the evaporation of hermits begin? Both these questions bear on the exact status of the gentlemen in question, for they dwelt on Long Lake at the same time and came to it long after the first settlement was started there. They made their homes, however, at the uninhabited north end of the lake, and chose opposite sides of it. They were two decidedly mysterious beings, known as Bowen and Harney. Bowen is said to have come from Elizabethtown about 1850. He built a rough cabin on the pine ridge at the west side of the outlet of the lake. The Old ^lilitary Koad passed near his house, and could be easily traced in his day. He often fol- lowed it, and spoke of seeing the abandoned English cannon that laj'' near it.* He lived entirely alone and in seclusion, but was not averse to meeting and talking with people who came his way. He was not only a man of education but a gen- tleman of culture and refinement. The few who crossed his threshold found themselves in the very humble home of a very polished host, and, besides this striking contrast, they found the walls of his primitive shack lined with a collection of fine books. The possessor of this library, however, earned his living in the wilderness by making charcoal, at which he was considered an expert. He would pile up wood in the shape of a pyramid, cover it with earth, and then let it burn very slowly for several days. This was the only kind of labor he w^as ever known to do, and even this he w^ould do only occasionally. iSce Chap. XXXIX, "Old Military Roads." LONG LAKE 73 During his stay on Long Lake a Mr. Robert Shaw — some- times called ''the Eev." — was one of the leaders there, both in civic and religious affairs. He was blacksmith, lawyer, shoemaker, and merchant on week-days, and a preacher on Sundays. At any time, however, he was ready to expound the Word, and to debate it. He occasionally dropped in on the hermit Bowen and discussed with him the future of the soul. It soon developed that the recluse had no very strong convic- tions on the subject. He was what the world calls an agnos- tic — what Mr. Shaw called a lost sheep. There followed an effort to bring the wanderer back into the fold, but it did not succeed. The straggler preferred to straggle, and presum- ably was quite able to defend the preference. At all events, Mr. Shaw finally gave up his rescue work, but told Bowen that when the hand of death was upon him, he would change his mind and be eager for the consolations of religion. Bowen merely smiled upon the prophet, as he bowed him to the door with his usual suavity of manner. Time passed. At last the Dark Stranger lingered at the lonely hut and marked his man. Lying on his death-bed, Bowen sent for Shaw — solely, as the event proved, to have the satisfaction of telling him that, although he knew he was about to die, he had neither changed his mind nor lost his skepticism. A few days later he passed away, in the year 1888, at the ripe age of ninety. The mystery that led to his forty years of isolation in the wilderness was never revealed, so far as I can discover, although Mr. Lossing hints at knowing it. In making the preparatory trip for his book "The Hudson," Mr. Lossing passed through Long Lake. Speaking of the spot where they camped for the night, he says: *'No human habitation was near, excepting the bark cabin of Bowen, the 'Hermit of Long Lake,' whose history we have not space to record." ^ Harney, the other "Hermit of Long Lake," also belonged to the gentleman class of solitude-seekers. He appeared on 1 Lossing's The Hudson, p. 12. The place where the Lossings camped for the night was Buck Mountain Point, formerly owned by Dr. Duryea, and now by Mr. Henry S. Harper. Mrs. Lossing was probably the first lady to camp on the shores of Long Lake, as she was one of the first to ascend Tahawus. See Chap. XXXIII, "Old Mountain Phelps." 74 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS the scene much later, however, not till some time in the sixties. He was refined in manner and dignified in bearing, but he had neither the education nor the bookish tastes of Bowen. He was, on the other hand, the more lovable character of the two, and was particularly fond of children, who felt instinctively attracted to him. One of them, now grown up, has told me of the fascination his wonderful blue eyes had for her, and how they could flash with fire, although as a rule they were twinkling with laughter. He was genial and friendly when he mixed with people, and was at no pains to avoid such eon- tacts. Indeed, he had little more than a quit-claim to being a hermit. In the winter he was forced to be one, but he changed his status, though not his name, with the seasons. He lived in a miserable shanty — still standing in 1920 — at the northeast end of the lake, on land now belonging to Mr. Henry S. Harper. Here Harney carried on farming-opera- tions, sometimes on a vast scale, for once or twice his fires burnt over a mountain or two, when he only intended to clear a potato patch. Ordinarily, however, he confined himself to raising and selling hay, and keeping cow^s. He had good stock and kept them in fine condition. He sold milk to the early campers, Senator Piatt, Dr. Duryea, Mr. Terry, and others. He lived on the lake long enough to become a very old man — and also a very dirty one. During the earlier years he was rather careful about his personal appearance, and won the reputation of being something of a dude in his dress by ap- pearing occasionally in a "boiled shirt." Gradually, how- ever, he became unpleasantly careless of his person and most unkempt in his appearance. In the autumn of 1898 he was taken seriously ill and feared he was going to die. In this expectation he asked a friendly neighbor to write a letter for him to the priest of a Canadian parish where he had formerly lived; the letter inquired if any of Harney's family were still living, and then came the most interesting part of the incident. The amanuensis was in- structed, under the seal of confidence, to sign the letter by Harney's real name, which was Larmie Fournier. No answer came to the letter. In the meantime the sick man recovered and was able to be up and around again. LONG LAKE 75 About two years later — as a result of the letter, presumably — a son appeared upon the scene and took his aged and myste- rious father away with him. This was the last ever seen or heard of Harney the Hermit. Not far from his cabin, and on the same lot (No. 20, Town- ship 50), lies Hendrick Spring, a remote source of the Hudson Eiver. The name suggests that it was probably considered a very important one at the time of its discovery. It lies about a quarter of a mile from the shore of Long Lake, and its waters flow into Round Pond — to which Mr. Lossing gave the far prettier name of Fountain Lake — and then through Catlin Lake into the upper Hudson. In 1846 Professor G. W. Benedict, of the Geological Survey, made elaborate plans for connecting these lakes with Long Lake, in order to give direct communication with the upper Hudson and increase its water-power. A dam was built at the outlet of Fountain Lake, and Mr. Lossing speaks of seeing its ruins. This raised the water as far back as Hendrick Spring, and from there a canal was dug to connect with Long Lake. The old ditch can still be traced by those who care to delve in tangled shrubbery and slash. To make the whole scheme effective, however, it w^ould have been necessary to build an- other dam at the outlet of Long Lake. But this proposal aroused strenuous opposition from the powerful lumber inter- ests on the lower Raquette. They were able to prevent the building of the dam, w^hich, of course, brought about the col- lapse of the entire project. On the east shore of Long Lake, about three miles from the inlet, is the village of Long Lake, the only one in the very large Tovm. of the same name. The Town is, indeed, the larg- est in the Adirondacks.^ It was erected in 1837 and contains 440 square miles. Early gazetteers speak of it as "the most secluded town in the State." It has always remained so. As late as 1860 it held no post-office. In 1895 the total popula- tion was only 324.^ 1 TIio Town of Wilmiiit was larger, but it exists no more. 2 An old resident informs me that it was the only Town in the State that did not ea'--t a single Democratic vote in the Grant-Greeley election, and my informant adds: "But that was before the Tovm was demoralized by city voters." 76 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS From the above it may be inferred that the village of Long Lake is neither large nor populous. It has, however, one pre- eminent distinction. Its name is a true index to its location. It actually lies near the shore of the lake whose name it bears. But it has not always borne this name. In the early days it was called ' ' Gougeville. ' ' This indignity is said to have been put upon it by an itinerant peddler who once traded within its purlieus. The inference is that his dealings there caused him annoyance, and that he voiced a grouch of which reiteration made a name. He also dealt with the settlement on the oppo- site shore of the lake, and here again he left the perfume of anathema. He dubbed it "Kickerville," and the road to Mr. Thomas S. Walker's place is still called the "Kickerville Road." On a hill in the village stands the Wesleyan Methodist Church, erected in 1865, largely through funds collected by Mitchell Sabattis.^ This was the first church building in the community, for the one projected by Dr. Todd never mate- rialized. That he took an interest in this one, however, is attested by a large clock over the pulpit, which bears the legend of having been presented to the church by '*Dr. Todd's Mission School." It was here that the two local preachers Robert Shaw and Mitchell Sabattis used to hold forth. There is also a Roman Catholic church, St. Henry's, and a Methodist Episcopal church in this small village. About a mile below it there is a curious bit of cobblestone beach, so smooth and even as to give the effect of having been artificially laid. Stone beaches of any kind are rare in the Adirondacks, and this one is unique. Long Lake is also no- table for its many and extensive sand beaches. There is one at Buck Mountain Point that is a mile and a half long. The prominence of its beaches is due to the interesting fact that the lake is not and never has been dammed. The result is that the beaches remain intact, whereas in most of the other large lakes they have been artificially submerged. Another result is that the water in the lake constantly fluc- tuates and, during the spring freshets, often rises as much as 1 See the following chapter. LONG LAKE 77 fourteen feet. About a mile below the outlet of Long Lake the waters of Cold River, rising at the Preston Ponds, join those of the Raquette. The latter river is shallow and full of sand-bars along this stretch, and Cold River, when swollen by melting snows and rain, forces its waters back into the lake and actually flows into it sometimes for two or three days. As a consequence the lake ceases to have an outlet, while two swollen streams pouring into it, one from each end, cause its waters to rise to the extraordinary height of fourteen feet. This spring flood is so certain and likely to prove so disastrous that the boat-houses on the shore have to be built far above the apparent water-level, and are neither lovely nor logical in appearance. On the other hand, the shores of the lake re- ceive an annual flushing that keeps them noticeably clean. The development of the lake as a summer resort offers noth- ing notable. Camps and hotels have gradually risen on its shores, but they have come slowly, and the lake, for its size, is very sparsely settled. It has realized neither the dreams of Dr. Todd nor the hopes of Amos Dean. The reason is not far to seek, perhaps. Long Lake still lies twenty miles from the nearest railway, and far from the beaten track of the im- proved highways.^ This lack of easy access, and the resultant isolation, is considered an added charm by many of its camp- ers, however, as they thereby escape many aflflictions of ap- proachability. The first summer campers on the lake were ver>^ distin- guished men. The Rev. Dr. Joseph T. Duryea of Brooklyn, built on Buck Mountain Point in 1874. He spent most of his summers there until his death in 1898. He was eminent as a scholar, a worker, and a speaker. During the Civil War he had charge of the Eastern Division of the United States Christian Commission which was organ- ized to alleviate sutforing among the wounded soldiers. The iln November, 1918. the people approved an amendment to Sec. 7, Art. VII of the Constitution, permitting the building, across State lands where necessary, of a State highway from Saranac Lake to Long Lake, and then to Old Forge by way of Blue Mountain and Raquette lakes. This will put Long Lake on a thor- oughfare connecting the present excellent highways on the east^nd west side of the mountains, and make it much more accessible. 78 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS doctor ^s splendid work in this field brought him into contact with President Lincoln, and an intimate friendship resulted. On one occasion the President asked Dr. Duryea to make a speech before Congress, and his inspired eloquence was such that he held not only his audience but the official reporters spellbound. Forty of them sat in a row before him, and all of them became so fascinated by the speaker that they forgot to record what was spoken. Only one, who had come late and was obliged to sit behind the doctor, carried away the Gomplete record of his speech. Princeton University owes the fact that it is in existence to-day to Dr. Duryea. Before the Civil War its support came mainly from the South, and when this source of revenue was cut off, the college authorities saw no alternative to closing their doors for lack of funds. Dr. Duryea, who was a Prince- ton graduate, heard of the distress of his alma mater and pledged himself to find relief. Within a week he had raised among his many wealthy friends more than was needed to keep the institution going. In return for this great service he was offered the presidency, but declined on the ground that he felt his duty to lie with the church and the people. To both he gave so unstinted a service that his health soon became impaired, and only his frequent recuperations in his woodland home prolonged his life. His daughter Mary married Mr. Isaac Robinson of Long Lake, and still lives there. To her I am indebted for some memories of her youth which have been embodied in this chapter. At the time Dr. Duryea first built on the laKe Senator Or- ville H. Piatt of Connecticut had a hunting-lodge on the oppo- site shore. This was gradually transformed into an artistic camp and is now owned by Mr. Harper Silliman. Senator Piatt was an eminent lawyer and statesman whose reputation as an able thinker and constructive fighter extended far be- yond the confines of his own State. He bore a conspicuous part in the long struggle for the International Copyright Law, and was often called the father of that measure. Many peo- ple, on having ''Senator Piatt's camp" pointed out to them, have not unnaturally assumed that it belonged to the New York senator Thomas C. Piatt, the political boss, whose name LONG LAKE 79 was more familiar in this State. This error has even ap- peared in print. ^ There were two other early camps, one built by Dr. Savage of Albany, on an island near Buck Point, and the other by Mr. George E. Terry of Waterbury, Conn., farther up the lake. A number of small hotels sprang up, of course, and finally a very large, ungainly, and conspicuous one was built on a point about a mile above the village. The first structure on this site was a primitive ai^air erected in 1885, and called ''The Sagamore." This was burned in 1889, but was imme- diately replaced by the New Sagamore, at that time one of the largest and most modern hotels in the woods. Nothing of greater historical interest attaches to Long Lake than the fact that the Adirondack guide-boat was evolved there. Its progenitors were Mitchell Sabattis and one of the Palmers who saw the need of devising something sturdier and swifter than the canoe. Their joint product must have been put in use as early as 1842, for that was the date of Dr. Todd's second visit, in recounting which he says: ''We procured a little boat, such a one as a man can carry on his head through the woods, from river to river, and from lake to lake." He also speaks of the people coming to church in their "little boats," wliich would indicate that the new model was then in general use. It differed in one important respect, however, from the guide-boat of to-day. It had a square stern, but the disad- vantages of this feature became apparent and soon disap- peared. This modification, and many a, less conspicuous re- finement, was tooled into the craft by the patient, cunning hands of Caleb Chase of Newoomb. Chase was taken into the woods when he was only twelve years old, in 1842, and he stayed there for the rest of his life. He became an intimate friend and an adept pupil in woodcraft of Mitchell Sabattis. Out of this intimacy grew the sugges- 1 In the report of the Special Committee appointed in 1808 to investigate the purchase of forest lands — Assembly Document No. 43, p. 77 — occurs the following in connection with a description of Lono: Lake: ''Along- its banks are built many private camps which are very attractive. Amono; those specially noted by the Republicans of our committee was that of Senator Thomas C. Piatt." 80 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS tion that there might be a living in making- the new kind of boat for which the demand was constantly growing. Chase built himself a modest little workshop at Newcomb in 1850, and for the next forty years he turned out a product that was considered the best of its kind. A Chase boat in the woods ranked with a Brewster buggy in the city. Only one impor- tant improvement was made in them which he did not origi- nate, and that was the decrease in weight which wa-s success- fully inaugurated by ''Willie Allen's egg-shells." ^ 1 See Chap. XXIV, under "William A. Martin." s St O tf. CHAPTER XXXV MITCHELL SABATTIS LONG LAKE was formerly noted for the number and quality of its guides, due largely, no doubt, to the early settlement there. The following names were familiar to all the early sportsmen in that section: John E. and Jerry Plumbley, Amos Hough, Henry Stanton, Isaac, John, and Amos Robinson, Alonzo Wood, Reuben Gary, and Mitchell Sabattis and his sons. Mitchell Sabattis had a remarkable ancestry and a notable career. His father was Captain Peter Sabattis, who is said to have been born in 1750. According to this he attained the re- markable age of one hundred and eleven years, for he died at Long Lake in 1861. He kept the record of his later years on a notched stick which he always carried with him. The date of his birth may not have been quite so early as he placed it, but he certainly lived to be a very old man, and was noted for his clear and accurate memory. He was a pure-blooded Indian of the Huron tribe, and his Indian name was Pierjoun. He was a stanch friend of the white men, however, and fought with them in the Revolution and the War of 1812. He became widely known for his truthfulness and reliability, as well as for his remarkable abilities as a hunter and trapper. He had his eccentricities, however, and one of them w^as the boast that, in an unusually long life, he had never slept in a white man's bed. He would accept all other hospitality, but when night came he persistently stuck to his whim. In mild weather he would sleep out of doors ; in cold, he would lie down in front of the kitchen stove, with a log of wood for a pillow. We get an all too fleeting but interesting glimpse of ''Cap- tain Peter" in J. T. Headley's ''Letters from the Back- woods," published in 1850. Headley spent the summers of 1846 and 1847 in the Adirondacks, and on both occasions Mitchell Sabattis was one of his guides. Returning to camp 81 82 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS one night, they found his aged father and young sister await- ing his arrival. ''Old Peter," writes Headley, "as he is called, had come, with liis daughter, a hundred and fifty miles in a bark canoe, to visit him. The old man, now over eighty years of age, shook with palsy, and was constantly muttering to himself in a language half French, half Indian, while his daughter, scarce twenty years old, was silent as a statue. This old man still roams the forest, and stays where night overtakes him." Headley goes on to describe his decrepit and failing condition, and to marvel at the force of habit that impelled him to wander about the woods when more than one roof would gladly have given him shelter and comfort. If he was born in 1750, he must have been ninety-six years old when Headley saw him. This would better account for the Cap- tain's palsied condition, for other writers say he was vigorous at ninety. Captain Peter's w^fe died early in the last century, and was buried on an island at the lower end of Long Lake. The site of her grave was knowm to her son Mitchell, who pointed it out to others. She had four children by the Captain, three sons and one daughter. The eldest one Solomon went through college and turned out a rascal. This dampened the father's enthusiasm for edu- cation, and the other children w^ere not hampered by it. The second child was a daughter Hannah. She grew up to be a beautiful girl, but modified none of her Indian traits. She was shy and silent before strangers, but wild and fearless in the woods. She became the inseparable companion of her aged father, and roamed and lived with him in the woods until he died. It was Hannah whom Headley saw. The third child was Mitchell. A fourth, named Charles, was a cripple and died before reaching manhood. It is impossible to say just w^hen Mitchell Sabattis was born. There is no record of the date, and his family do not know it. It is highly doubtful if he knew it himself. Even his most intimate friend the Rev. Robert Shaw, pastor emeri- tus of the Methodist Church at Long Lake, did not know it. In his funeral oration at the grave of his long-time chum, he spoke of him as being ''some eighty-odd years old." The MITCHELL SABATTIS 83 obituaries and guide-books give various dates, some of them being twenty years apart. I am inclined to place the date around 1801. Professor Chittenden (in his ''Reminiscences") speaks of Mitchell Sa- battis being eighty-four years old when he last saw him in 1885. The place of his birth is unanimously agreed upon as Parishville, St. Lawrence County. He died at Long Lake, April 16, 1906. In 1886 he had a stroke which left him some- what crippled, but he continued to do light guiding for several years. He was a pure-blooded Indian of the Abenaki tribe (Algic. family), and, at the time of his death, was the oldest, if not the only, descendant of his race living in the Adirondacks. He was intelligently versed in the Abenaki language and the Indian nomenclature of the region, much of which originated mth him and his congeners. He was sought by the foremost students of Indian names, and his opinions are quoted as au- thoritative. In 1900 he was visited by Professor J. Dyneley Prince of Columbia, whose resultant paper is mentioned in Chapter VII, ''Adirondack Names." Sabattis was a small man and of slight stature; gentle, un- assuming, and reticent in manner, but having the strength and endurance of tempered steel in action. His knowledge of woodcraft amounted to animal instinct. In the woods he saw and heard and reasoned with a refinement that was un- canny. The stories of the big game he killed, of his coolness and resourcefulness in danger and dilemma, would fill a volume. Soon after settling near Long Lake, he married Betsey Joinburgh, of Dutch descent. By her he had a large family. Two or three children died in infancy, but eight of them grew up to be a credit to their worthy parents. Soon after marry- ing, Sabattis came face to face with a crisis in his life. His one failing was a periodical addiction to drink. How he de- cided to battle against it will be told later. He won a com- plete victory, and naturally came out of the struggle a better and stronger man. From that moment, indeed, he became noted, not only for his skill in woodcraft, but for a genuine religious fervor. 84 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS He had evidently joined the church at an early date, for Dr. Todd speaks of ''my young friend Sabatas, a noble young Indian man, whose violin leads the music in public worship." After his conversion from drink he became the very pillar and prop of Long Lake's religious activities. In 1865 the Wes- leyan Methodists decided to build a church, and Sabattis undertook to raise the funds for it. He had guided and be- come the friend of well-known ministers from Boston, Pitts- field, New York, and Philadelpliia. He went to these men now, and they allowed him to speak before their congregations and make a plea for the funds he wished to raise. He re- turned from this trip with $2,000 for the new church. After it was built he often preached in it, and so, though never or- dained, he was often spoken of as ''the Reverend Sabattis." But he was more than a preacher, he was a practiser, and won the sincere esteem and respect of all kinds and conditions of men. The two writers who have the most to say of him are J. T. Headley and L. E. Chittenden. The former has this to say on parting from him for the last time : I shook his honest hand with as much regret as I ever did that of a white man. I shall long remember him. He is a man of deeds and not of words — kind, gentle, delicate in his feelings, honest and true as steel. A more extended glimpse is given by L. E. Chittenden, in his "Personal Reminiscences," published by Richmond, Gros- cup & Co., New York, in 1893. These reminiscences extend from 1840 to 1890. In the late fifties the author visited the woods, and there is a chapter called "Adirondack Days," and another, "The Story of ]\Iitchell Sabattis." The first chap- ter closes with these words : In those deliirhtful five weeks I formed an attachment for these guides (Mitchell Sabattis and Alonzo Wctherby) which lasted as Ions: as they lived. From Wetherby, and later from others, I learned that Sabattis was a generous fellow whom every one liked, but he would get drunk upon every opportunity, and then he was a madman. His wife was a worthy white woman. They had five children. The sons MITCHELL SABATTIS 85 were as skilled in woodcraft as their father, and inherited the excellent qualities of their mother. One of them grew up with the figure of Apollo, and when I last saw him I thought that physically he was the most perfect man I had ever seen. Then follows the interesting story of Mitchell's conversion and redemption from drink. Chittenden spent the last night of his outing at Mitchell's home in Newcomb. He saw that both husband and wife were greatly worried over something, and he induced them to tell him the reason. There was a mortgage upon their little house and farm. It was due and had been called. They could not pay it, and were to be sold out in a few weeks. The next morning, just before leaving, Professor Chitten- den said to Mitchell : ''What would you give to one who would buy your mort- gage and give you time in which to pay it ? " ''I would give my life," he exclaimed, "the day after I had paid the debt. I would give it now if I could leave this little place to Bessie and her children." Chittenden told him it would not cost so much — that he would buy the mortgage if ^fitchell would promise to give up drinking, and agree to meet him at "Bartlett's" the following August. He promised instantly, solemnly. He rose from his chair. I thought he looked every inch the chief which by birth he claimed to be, as he said: "You may think you cannot trust me, but you can. Sabattis when he w^as sober never told a lie. He will never lie to his friend!" For a few minutes there was in that humble room a very touching scene. The Indian silent, solemn, but for the speaking arm thrown lovingly around the neck of his wife, apparently motionless — the wife trying to say through her tears. "I told you, you could trust Mitchell! He will keep his promise — he will never get drunk again. I know him so well. I am certain he will not drink, and we shall be so happy. Oh! I am the happiest woman alive!" "Well! well!" I said, "let us hope for the best; we must wait and see. Mitchell, remember the second of next August— Bartlett 's— and in the meantime no whiskey ! ' ' And so we parted. 86 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS On his way through Elizabethtown, Chittenden bought an assignment of the mortgage, carried it home, put it away, and virtually forgot about it. The following February, late one night, Sabattis turned up at Chittenden's home in Burlington. He came in a hand- made sled, drawn by two borrowed horses. The route had been by way of CroAvn Point, and the distance covered not less than one hundred and fifty miles. The sled was heavily loaded with various kinds of food, game, and valuable skins, which were offered as a present. The Indian also had part of the principal of his mortgage in his pocket. He reported the best hunting-season he had ever had, and that not a drop of whisky had passed his lips. lie was cordially received, of course, and after a pleasant visit of a few days, he started home again — a very happy man. On the second of August following, Chittenden landed at *'Bartlett's," and there were Mitchell and Alonzo waiting for him. As he says: There was no need to ask Mitchell if he had kept his promise. His eye was as clear and keen as that of a goshawk. The muscles visible in their action under his transparent dark skin, his voice, ringing ■with cheerfulness, all told of a healthy body and a sound mind. His wife, he said, had her house filled with boarders, his oldest son had been employed as a guide for the entire season, and prosperity shone upon the Sabattis household. This was the summer of 1860, and Chittenden did not return to the woods again till 1885. Long before that, however, Sa- battis had paid off his mortgage in full. On this last trip Chittenden stopped at a hotel thirty miles from Long Lake. Here he heard the subsequent story of his old guide, which he relates as follows : He had never broken his promise to me. He united with the Meth- odist Church and became one of its leaders, and in a few years was the leading citizen in the Long Lake settlement. In worldly matters he prospered. His wife kept a favorite resort for summer visitors. Their children were educated, the daughters married well — two of the sons served their country with courage and gallantry through the war, returned home uuwounded, ^^^th honorable discharges, and now guided MITCHELL SABATTIS 87 in summer and built Adirondack boats in the winter. Mitchell, now a hale and healthy veteran of eighty-four years, still lived at Long Lake in the very house of which I was once the mortgagee. The next morning I heard a light step on the uncarpeted hall and a knock at my door. I opened it and Sabattis entered. He was as glad to see me as I was to grasp his true and honest hand. But I was profoundly surprised. Had the world with him stood still ! He did not look a day older than when I last saw him, more than twenty-five years ago. The same keen, clear eye, transparent skin with the play of the muscles under it, the same elastic step, ringing voice and kindly heart. His eye was not dim nor his natural force abated. We spent a memorable day together — at nightfall we parted forever. Not long afterward he died full of years, full of honors, that noblest work of God, an honest man. Sabattis strongly resembled, both in manner and appear- ance, his contemporary John Cheney. Both were small and slight of stature, gentle and unassuming in manners, but when roused had the strength and agility of the tiger. Both had exceptional traits of character, as well as exceptional gifts for woodcraft. They were both leading experts of their day and guild — and these woods will probably never look upon their like again. CHAPTER XXXVI RAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES RAQUETTE LAKE lies very near the actual center of the Adirondacks, in Township 40, Totten and Crossfield Purchase. The origin of the name has been discussed in Chapter VI. The lake is about six miles long and in some places almost as Avide, for its irregular shape may be com- pared to a starfish. It is full of long promontories and deep bays, and its zigzagging shore-line is said to measure over forty miles. The first settler on the lake was Josiah Wood, who came to the place in 1846. He built a cabin on the point that still bears the family name, and here the first white child on the lake was bom in December, 1848. This w^as Jerome Wood, who still (1920) spends his summers on Big Island. About a year after Josiah Wood moved in, his brother Wil- liam and a friend, Matthew Beach, both single men, arrived on the scene and built separate cabins for themselves on Indian Point. William Wood, owing to a distressing accident, be- came a local freak and curiosity. He was tending a trap line one winter and had both his feet so completely frozen that they gradually sloughed off. Undaunted by this mishap, however, he made leather pads for his knees, on which he began stumping around. This worked well enough indoors, but not in the snow. His next move, therefore, was to attach snow-shoes to his stumps. This he did successfully, and soon became so expert on them that, to- ward the end of the winter, he hobbled out of the woods to the nearest settlement, some forty miles away. He had no inten- tion of retiring as a pioneer, however. After securing some improved leather pads and some special straps for his snow- shoes, he returned to the quiet of his Raquctte home, and lived there happily for many years. He trapped, hunted, fished, and even cut trees, with all the dexterity of a normal biped. RAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 89 The Woods and Beach- appear to have been the only settlers on the lake for several years. At all events, the next record of interest concerns a man named Wilbur, who built a primi- tive hotel about a mile above the outlet of Raquette Lake, in 1857. He called it the ''Kaquette Lake House," and it re- mained open for sixteen years. During this period, however, it changed hands several times. It passed from Wilbur to Cyrus Kellogg, then to Thomas R. Carey, and finally to Reu- ben Carey. Mr. Durant, to whom I am indebted for much kindly help connected with this chapter, has loaned me, among other papers, a copy of the register of the Raquette Lake House. It offers much of historical interest. It shows that a surprising number of people, including ladies, were passing that way at a very early date. During the summer of 1857 there was a total of forty-four guests. The first to arrive were Alfred G. Compton and Thomas M. Barton from New York, under date of August 4th. The next entry is on iVugust 13th, when half a dozen names are bracketed together as coming from Yale. On August 20th twelve names appear, among them those of Mr. and Mrs. Charles Loring Brace, whose early connec- tion with the woods has been previously commented upon in Chapter XXVIII. Mrs. Brace is the first and only lady to be registered in 1857.^ In 1858, how^ever, the names of three other ladies appear, and Mr. and Mrs. Brace are registered for the second and last time. The total of guests for that season was seventy-five. It continued to increase in about the same ratio each year, and the sprinkling of ladies grew proportionately. This patronage seems so large for the time and place, that it is surprising to leani that the Raquette Lake House closed its doors in the autumn of 1873, and remained vacant for several years. In 1878 part of the old log structure was moved over to the Forked Lake end of the carry on which it stood. Here it was slightly enlarged, and opened as the ''Forked Lake House." It was run by George Leavitt, an old lumberman from Friend's Lake, Warren County. Later it lit was in 1855 that Lady Amelia M. Murray made lier trip through the mountains, two years before the hotel in question was built. 90 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS was bought by John G. Holland and Dr. Martine, his brother- in-law, who leased it to a man named Fletcher. As ''Fletch- er's" it became well known and popular. In 1865 Alvah Dunning (whose storj^ is told in the next chapter) established his headquarters on Raquette Lake, and Adirondack Murray ^ began frequenting it the following year. In the late sixties Dr. Thomas C. Durant began building his Adirondack Railroad from Saratoga to North Creek.^ This took him into the woods on exploring expeditions, for he wished to have first-hand knowledge of the country he in- tended to open and planned to develop. No man was more fitted for such an undertaking, for he was one of the most far-sighted, dynamic, and successful promoters of his day. Thomas C. Durant was born in Lee, Mass., in 1820. He was graduated from the Albany Medical College in 1841, and prac- tised as a surgeon for a few years. His ardent and adven- turous spirit soon tired of professional routine, however, and he turned to business. He became a partner in the firm of Durant, Lathrop & Co., of Albany, who carried on a large European trade. In 1848 he became interested in railroad development in the West. He was prominent in organizing and building the Michigan Southern, the Chicago and Rock Island, and the Mississippi and Missouri railroads. During these activities he conceived with others the possibility of building a great trunk-line across the continent, and he became one of the most active and enthusiastic promoters of the Union Pacific. From 1861 to the driving of the last spike in this great romance of railroading, he was vice-president and gen- eral manager of the enterprise, and acting president most of the time. After completing this colossal work he became interested in the Adirondack Railroad and the allied develop- ments to be recorded here. In 1847 he married Heloise Hannah Timbrel of England. He died at North Creek in 1885, and left a widow, a daughter Heloise Durant Rose, and one son William West Durant. The latter was born in Brooklyn, in 1850. He succeeded his father as president of the Adirondack Railroad, and carried 1 See Chap. XVII, "Adirondack Murray." 2 See Chap. XL, "Railroads." RAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 91 on his many development schemes with an enthusiasm born of genuine delight in the woods. He added whole townships to his inherited land holdings ; he built the first artistic camps the woods had ever seen, and opened up the Raquette Lake region by facilities of transportation unknown before. Indeed, he was conspicuously the developer of the central Adirondacks. From 1885 to 1900 he enjoyed an unrivaled regency of promi- nence and popularity. He entertained largely and royally, and made a name for himself as a pioneer woodland host. He was the first to make his summer quarters comfortable for winter pleasures, and to use them for that purpose. He was the first to ask his friends to travel north by train and then by sleigh over forty miles of snow and ice for the novelty of eating Christmas dinner in the wilderness. He was, in short, the first to inaugurate many things which had never been dreamed of in the Adirondacks before. When he was not in the woods, he was often carrjdng an Adirondack name around the world in his sea-going steam- yacht the Utowana which he navigated himself. His life of these years, therefore, was spent between the deep sea and the deep woods. The reefs of disaster lay on the landward course, however. His widely extended and interlocking inter- ests were adversely affected by the death of his friend and prospective associate, Mr. Collis P. Huntington, who died very suddenly at Camp Pine Knot, in 1899. At tliis time Mr. Durant had also become involved in a protracted lawsuit brought by his sister Mrs. Rose over the settlement of their father's estate. The courts awarded Mrs. Rose a heavy judg- ment. The thickening of these complications forced Mr. Durant to dispose gradually of all his Adirondack properties. In 1884 he married Miss Janet L. Stott, a daughter of Com- modore Stott of Stottville. She sued for a divorce, and was granted a decree in 1898. Several years later Mr. Durant married again, and is now (1920) living and engaged in busi- ness in New York. Among the many notable things that he did for the Adiron- dacks, nothing has greater historical interest than the building of his once famous home on Raquette Lake — Camp Pine Knot. This was the first of the artistic and luxurious camps that are 92 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS so numerous to-day that the story of their multiplication might fittingly bear the title ''Camps Is Camps." But when Pine Knot rose amid the stately trees on the lone shore of Eaquette Lake, it was a now and unique blend of beauty and of comfort. It became the show place of the woods. Men took a circuitous route in order to gain a glimpse of it, and to have been a guest within its timbered walls and among its woodland fancies was to wear the hall-mark of the envied. Camp Pine Knot had two phases. Dr. Durant had taken an early fancy to Long Point, on which it w^as built. Charlie Bennett at the time was trying to secure from the State this and adjoining lands on the lake, and Dr. Durant, who was fa- miliar with the ropes at Albany, offered to assist him there, provided he would cede him the coveted point. The deal went through and each secured what he wanted. The first build- ings to be put up on the point were very simple one-story affairs, making no bid for beauty and only a modest one for comfort. While they were building, one of the family ran across a wonderful pine knot on the shore of the lake. It was shaped like the hilt of a sword, and measured some three feet across. This curious relic of the forest was made an orna- ment of the camp and suggested its name. The next phase of Camp Pine Knot was the tearing doAvn of the plain original buildings and their gradual replacement by eminently beautiful ones. These w^ere conceived, designed, and begun by Mr. William West Durant in 1879. In planning them he had the happy inspiration to combine the Adirondack features of the crude log cabin with the long low lines of the graceful Swiss chalet. From this pleasing blend there sprang a distinctive school of Adirondack architecture, and "Pine Knot" became the prototype of the modern Camp Beautiful. Before it was built there was nothing like it; since then, de- spite infinite variations, there has been nothing essentially different from it. Pine Knot kept constantly growing and ultimately became a cluster of buildings, large and small, connected and de- taclied. One of the latter was unique. It was a pretty bark cabin, built on a raft of pine logs, and moored near the boat- house. It was used as a guest-room and was called the ''float- KAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 93 iiig annex." It was later supplanted by an elaborate scow house-boat, containing four rooms, a kitchen, bath, and run- ning water. This was by far the most luxurious thing of the kind that ever floated on Adirondack waters, and it was called the ''Barque of Camp Pine Knot." It was sold with the camp to Mr. Collis P. Huntington in 1895. After building this camp Mr. Durant began acquiring large tracts of land. He never owaied more of Township 40 (which contains Eaquette Lake) than the Pine Knot point, but he bought all of the adjoining Townships 34 and 6, and part of No. 5. These are in Hamilton County in the Totten and Crossfield Purchase. He also bought lands in Township 28, Essex County, containing Rich Lake and Arbutus Lake, and other lesser tracts, so that in his day he was probably the owner of nearly a million acres of Adirondack real estate. Township 34 contained the Eckford Chain of lakes. In Town- ship 6 was Shedd Lake (now Sagamore) and Sumner Lake (now Lake Kora). In Township 5 lay Mohegan Lake (now Uncas). On the shores of this tiny, toy-like lake in the deep- est depths of the forest, Mr. Durant built a most wonderful camp in 1890. Owing to its utter isolation it was seldom seen and but little known, and yet it was more massively beautiful and more cunningly luxurious than even Pine Knot. It was called "Camp Uncas," and was sold to the senior J. Pierpont Morgan in 1895. In 1893 picturesque hunting-lodges were built at Shedd Lake and Sumner Lake. These were soon enlarged into elab- orate camps. Shedd Lake (now Sagamore) was sold in 1901 to the late Alfred G. Vanderbilt, whose widow, Mrs. Raymond T. Baker, now owns and occupies it (1920). Sumner Lake (now Lake Kora) was sold in 1896 to the late Governor Tim- othy L. Woodruff. It is now owned by the Hon. Francis P. Garvin, Alien Property Custodian, who has spent large sums of money on the place and made it one of the most expensive camps in the Adirondacks. Let us now turn from this unique record of camp-building to a bird's-eye view of the general developments in the region. In 1877 — the year in which the first Pine Knot was built — Dr. Durant established a line* of four and six-horse Concord 94 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS coaches from the terminus of the railroad at North Creek to Bhie Mountain Lake, a distance of thirty miles. From there to Eaquette Lake, twelve miles, he established a line of row- boats. He also stimulated and encouraged the building of stopping-places along this route. All the improvements in travel and comfort which the elder Durant inaugurated were energetically furthered and perfected by his son. The latter supplanted the rowboat line by several steam- boats, some capable of carrying two hundred passengers. Later he built a road between Raquette and Blue Mountain lakes. In 1889 he established the first post-office on Raquette Lake, and became the first postmaster. He organized and was president of the Adirondack, Lake George, and Saratoga Telegraph Company, which ran its wires from North Creek into the lake region. He constructed a golf-course on Eagle Lake, near the site of Ned Buntline's old log cabin. It was opened by the champion Harry Vardon in 1899. As early as 1883 he raised and contributed money to build the Episcopal Church of the IMission of the Good Shepherd on St. Hubert's Isle in Raquette Lake. Later he built and do- nated a charming little rectory. Both buildings were of pleasing rustic design, and this island church became one of the unique features of life on the lake. The scene of a bright Sunday morning, when the boats gathered from far and near, filled with worshipers in gay apparel, was highly picturesque and gave church-going the novel charm of a devotional outing to a shrine of God-tinged beauty. Mr. Durant also built a church for the Catholics, near the site of the Raquette Lake post-office. He also gave to them, and to the Protestants, land for separate cemeteries on Blue Mountain Lake. As these developments progressed they brought the results for which they were planned. Tourist travel increased, and hotels and boarding-camps were erected to take care of it. The region also began to be dotted with many private camps, reflecting the artistic influence of Pine Knot. Among the earliest of these were the Ten Eyck, Hasbrouck, Stott, and Apgar camps. These were all built in the seventies, but were at first mere log cabins. In 1881, Charles W. Durant, a cousin KAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 95 of W. W. Durant, who had bought Osprey Island/ erected on it a charmingly picturesque camp known as "Fairview." It was later purchased by J. Harvey Ladew of New York. In 1883 Dr. Arpad G. Gerster ^ built a small camp near the Hem- locks, and later a larger one on Big Island. After being sold to the sculptor Carl Bitter, it was destroyed by fire in 1906. While these early private camps were springing up, public stopping-places were also dotting the lake shore. They were built mostly on the cabin plan, however, and it is noteworthy that Raquette Lake escaped the infliction of a big bare-boned hotel of the paganly formal type. The public w^s entertained in buildings of rustic design, crude enough at first, but grad- ually yielding to the atmosphere of beauty and comfort that began to permeate the architecture of the lake. The earliest of these hotels in log apparel were started between 1875 and 1880. Ike Kenwell built the first on a point often called by his own name, opposite Indian Point. The building was a two-story log one, called the "Raquette Lake House." He ran it for eleven years and then sold to the late Hon. Dennis McCarthy of Syracuse, who erected a private camp on the site. Mr. Kenwell is still alive (1920), and is now living at Indian Lake. Chauncey Hathorn, an eccentric character who had been Hving the life of a hermit for several years on Blue Moun- tain Lake, moved over to Golden Beach and opened the "For- est Cottages," which he ran until his death in 1891. Joe Whit- ney built a small place on the other side of South Bay, and Charlie Blanchard started the Wigwams at the north end of the lake. The three Bennett brothers all opened early resorts. Two of them became very popular — "Under the Hemlocks," run by Ed Bennett, and the "Antlers," run by Charlie Ben- nett. The latter place, indeed, became one of the most dis- tinctive in the woods and it and its owner call for more than passing notice. Charles Bennett was born in Peekskill in 1845, and soon 1 See Chap. XXXVII, "Alvah Dunning." 2 1 am indebted to Dr. Gerster for much kindly help in gathering data for this chapter, and for supplementing them with reminiscent comments of his own. 96 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIEONDACKS afterward his family moved to Long Island. He was a wild and restless boy, and he and his brother Ed ran away from home together. They wandered into Raquette Lake about 1874, and Charles stayed there for the rest of his life. He died at the Antlers in 1915. He never married. A house- keeper Miss Amelia Keller and later a sister Margaret Ben- nett helped him run his place until he died. The sister con- tinued to run it till 1920, when she sold it for the purposes of a boys' club. When Charlie first came into the woods he guided for the Durants. Then he put up a small cabin for tourists on the apex of Long Point. In 1880 he and his brother built Under the Hemlocks, and ran it together for a while. It burned in 1882, but was rebuilt. In 1885 Charlie bought Constable Point and started the Antlers, which, from small and diffi- cult beginnings, he nursed into a place of unique charm and distinctive merit. It was an achievement of personality, and yet there was a deviltry of independence in this man's character that would seem to preclude precisely this achievement. Nothing seemed more obviously important for a tavern host of the early days than to win the good will and the good word of the guides. The guide was the babbling Baedeker of the woods. He planned the route and chose the stopping-places. He could double-star the ones ho liked, and double-cross the others. It would seem, therefore, that his favor was a necessary factor in success. Charlie Bennett managed to explode the theory. Although an ex-guide himself, he treated the profession and the individual with undisguised contempt. He omitted no op- portunity of being mean to them either in speech or act. They in turn, of course, omitted no opportunity of abusing him and his place, but their solid enmity failed to keep an ever increasing patronage from his doors. The tourists went to the Antlers, and the guides, according to Charlie, were at perfect liberty to go elsewhere. His success under these con- ditions was so unusual as to be unique. Besides the guides, w^ho had some excuse for making him trouble, he had to fight more powerful and threatening influ- ences that arrayed themselves against the success of his hotel. 5 Q ■*F# ; RAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 97 The story of it all is too intricate and long to be told here, but it led to many a battle royal in which Charlie ultimately came out victor. He was a bom fighter, anyhow, and seemed fairly to revel in a row. Nor was he at any pains to conceal his de- light over the discomfiture of an enemy. A picturesque in- stance of this occurred in the early days. John G. Holland built the first hotel on Blue Mountain Lake. It burned in 1886. Wishing to rebuild, but dreading the long haul for lumber from North Creek, he bethought him of an old mill that stood unused at the foot of Raquette Lake. He then asked Charlie Bennett if he would go into partnership on the mill, moving it up the Marion River to Bassett's Carry, where it could be used to advantage for both Blue Mountain and Raquette Lake. Charlie agreed to the bargain. Mr. Durant, who owned the mill, was approached and gave his con- sent to the moving. A misunderstanding over the prelimi- naries arose between the partners, however, and the matter was referred to Mr. Durant, who gave the mill to Holland and excluded Charlie altogether from the deal. Holland started in the autumn to move the mill on a raft. The raft became caught in the early ice. As soon as thicker ice formed, further progress was attempted. The boiler was placed on a sleigh, and started up the river. But the ice proved too thin for such a load. It broke through and sank to the bottom. Charlie soon heard of this serious mishap, and it filled him with such effervescent joy that he rummaged out some fire-balloons and rockets left over from the Fourth of July, and set them off in a spirit of public thanksgiving for the confusion of his enemy. There was a barbaric frankness about this celebration that was typical of the man. He never shammed. He pretended no sympathy for Holland. He felt an elation which verged on the explosive, and he noised it abroad in rockets. Early in his career he avowed three dominant ambitions — to run a better hotel than anybody else, to travel, and ''to give hell to Long Lakers." He achieved all three. The par- ticular reason for the last-named yearning was the fact that Long Lakers assessed his property, and he claimed that their only gage of values was personal spite. He sought to pay 98 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS them back by a largess of the same coin that became proverb- ial. This was Charlie the fighter — the man who could make en- emies and keep them. But he could also make friends and keep them. He was the kind of man who made you love him or hate him, and he was a past master in both arts. His softer side was full of true tenderness and intuitive delicacy. He could do the nicest things in the nicest way, and delighted in doing them. He took the most touching care of his aged father, and awakened genuine affection in all who worked for him faithfully for any length of time. Not only have I heard these people sing his praises, but I have heard men who have traveled the world over say they would as lief spend a day with Charlie Bennett as with any man they ever met. He had a keen, intelligent mind, and developed it by a growing fond- ness for reading the best books, which in turn awakened in him the desire to travel. From the first his camp-like hotel was so good and so well patronized that he could soon afford to travel, and the more he traveled the better his hotel became. His globe-trotting was done in the winter, of course. He wandered all over America and visited the leading countries of Europe. Wher- ever he went he stopped at the best hotels, chiefly to discover why they were the best. He mixed not only wdth the guests but vdih the management. He liked to watch the wheels go round, and was always nosing about for some new trick of the trade. If a new dish were set before him, especially abroad, he made connection with the chef and learned how to concoct it, for he was an excellent cook himself. After ever>' winter trip, he returned to apply something appropriate of the knowl- edge he had gleaned to the betterment of the Antlers, and it gradually acquired touches of comfort and surprises in food which were to be had nowhere else in the woods. If he had the ingredients, there was scarcely a dish in the Almanac de Gotha that Charlie could not prepare, and he delighted to set before a foreign guest some specialty of his native land, and to prepare little dinners of exotic flavor. This was what gave the place a distinctive charm. This was Charlie the caterer. There was also Charlie the host. He liked to meet and mix KAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 99 with his guests, but he did so with discrimination. He tested them all before he unbent to any. He was an intuitive reader of men, with a swift sureness of judgment. Those who often dissented from his obiter dicta w^hen these were uttered, have admitted to me that his estimates usually proved right in the long run. He was quick to sense the difference between men of inherited culture and ancestral wealth, and those who had been suddenly tossed to prosperity by a bull market. To the latter he gave of his hotel but not of himself. To the former he gave of both. And when he gave of his better, partly hidden self, he re- vealed unexpected depths of charm and interest. Before the elect he delighted to show his knowledge of books and of the world. His conversation ran into the by-paths of travel and literature, and bristled with original comment and amu.sing anecdote. Gradually you became aware of listening to a man who loved all that was beautiful, and abhorred all shams and frauds. And yet you might chance to see this delightful companion of a quiet evening in very different guise the fol- lowing day. He might be heard too loudly berating a Long Laker, or he might be seen fleeing for his life before an en- raged French chef with a carving-knife, w^ho considered him- self insulted by an irresponsible employer. He might be found, in short, in almost any boisterous scene that is sired by the overflowing cup. This was a recurrent shadow in his life. He was full of fun and constantly playing jokes. But here again he ran the gamut of extremes. With ladies his fooling was gently whimsical; with men it was sometimes roughly Olympic. I have the following instance from a survivor. He and Charlie started out in a boat to fish. It was a hot, still morning. My friend leaned over and looked into the cool, clear w^ater, remarking casually, *'I think I 'd like to take a dip." The next instant he took it. Charlie gave the boat a violent lurch and both occupants w^ent sprawiing into the lake. My friend came up with his nose full of water and his mouth •fulFof anger. Charlie, better prepared, came up full of laugh- ter, and soon had his victim laughing, too. It was another knack he had. He could make any one forgive him — if he wanted to. 100 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS Physically he was a big, broad-shouldered man. His face was attractive to the verge of being handsome. His nose was a bit too rounded at the end, perhaps, to be purely classical, but otherwise his features were almost faultless. The curves of the chin were excellent, the mouth was frank and winsome, the forehead was broad, and beneath it were the kind of eyes that men remember and women seldom forget. They were bluish, deep-set, dreamy eyes, yet clear and keen withal. Both laughter and lightning played in their depths, and they searched you with a level gaze from which there was no am- bush. Seldom has the face of a fighter been so free from the portents of combat, and so submissive to the sunshine of a smile. Charlie Bennett had stanch friends and bitter enemies, but the number of the latter was far outweighed by the quality of the former. These were largely people of culture and dis- tinction who had stopped at his hotel or met him in his travels at home and abroad. Some of them, I am told, crossed the ocean mainly to visit the Antlers. Speaking of this one day to a globe-trotting friend whose social contacts were many and diverse, I said: ''I suppose Charlie always talked about the Antlers in his travels, and so made people curious to see his wild-wood home." " It was n't that," came the quick answer. "It was his personality that did the trick. I 'd cross the ocean myself to spend a day with Charlie Bennett!" BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKE Blue Mountain, although a much smaller lake, is a sister to Raquette in beauty and proximity. The development of the two, being inspired by the Durants, went hand in hand, but there was one marked difference. Raquette was dominated by the camp-beautiful idea in both its private and public build- ings, whereas Blue Mountain Lake succumbed, structurally, to the hotel horrible. The water connection between the two lakes is by way of the Marion River and two widenings of it known as Utowana and Eagle lakes. These and Blue Mountain Lake were called the "Eckford Chain" in the early days, after Henry Eckford, a noted engineer and ship-builder, who made a survey of the EAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 101 lakes while Eobert Fulton was surveying others, under the waterway investigation ordered by the State in ISll.^ Later Professor Emmons, during his geological survey, named the lakes, beginning with the largest, ''Lake Janet," ''Lake Cath- erine," and "Lake Marion," all for daughters of Henry Eckford. The last name only has survived, as applied to the Marion River. Mr. Durant renamed Utowana, Ned Buntline renamed Eagle, and John G. Holland renamed Blue Mountain Lake. Between the early names given by Professor Emmons — so -early that there was no one to use and perpetuate them — and the names of to-day, there w^as a long period when this chain was called the "Tallow Lakes." This strange name had a strange genesis. There was an old Indian hunter who started across the larger lake one spring with a load of vension tal- low in his canoe, which he hoped to sell at a good profit in the settlements. The lust of gain proved his undoing, however, He overloaded his canoe and was overtaken by a storm, and his argosy of grease was swallowed by the angry waters. The Indian was childishly atTected by his loss. He bemoaned and bewhined it to all who would listen, and men began, half-jok- ingly, to call the scene of the tragedy Tallow Lake. It was so called when John G. Holland started to build the first hotel upon its shores in 1874. Realizing that this would hardly be an attractive name for his letter-heads, he cast about for something better. He noticed that some of the guides spoke of the adjacent mountain — originally named Mount Emmons, in honor of the geologist — as "Blue Moun- tain," because it often seemed conspicuously tinged w^itli blue. Acting on this suggestion, Holland decided to call his place the "Blue Mountain Lake Hotel," and so advertised it when completed. The name met ^vith general favor and adhered to both the lake and the mountain, and was later given to the post-office there. In 1873 Holland was working at the store in North Creek. There he met the sportsmen and lumbermen as they passed in and out, and heard their talk of the beautiful lake country in the depths of the woods and of how badly it needed accom- 1 See Chap. XIII, "John Brown's Tract." 102 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS modations for the traveler. He decided to look over the ground and the possibilities. This meant a difficult journey in those days. There was only the roughest kind of winter road to a lumber camp on Cedar River. Beyond that there were only wood trails. Holland was guided over these by a man named Henry Austin, who had a rough shanty on Eagle Lake. From here they rowed into Blue Mountain Lake, where the Morgan Lumber Company was in control and op- erating. Holland soon made up his mind to build a hotel, and negotiated for a site with the lumber company before leav- ing. This was in 1874, and at the time he found a young but eccentric hermit living alone on one of the beaches. This was Chauncey Hathom, a nephew of Senator Hathorn, owner of the Hathorn Spring at Saratoga. The nephew was a young man of breeding and education, but of marked eccentricities, of which living alone in the woods was one. Later, as has been told, he moved over to Golden Beach on Raquette Lake and ran a popular boarding-camp there for many years. The other permanent resident on Blue Mountain Lake at this time was Tyler M. Merwin, who had a log cabin on an elevated plateau on a spur of Blue Mountain. After Holland had built, Merwin enlarged his place into a hotel which he called the *'Blue Mountain House." Perched high above the lake, on the Long Lake road, it commanded a wonderful view, and became popular with those who did not object to the long climb to it. Holland drew in the lumber and material for his hotel dur- ing the winter. In the spring he began building, and in July, 1875, he threw open the doors of the first hotel on Blue Moun- tain Lake. People fairly rushed in from the start. It was a primitive log structure, but it was clean and comfortable, and well run, and its patronage was large and steady. Dr. Durant was keenlj^ interested in the venture, for a good hotel at that point was exactly what he wanted. He helped to open and improve the road to it, and, as soon as feasible, put on a line of daily stages from the railway station at North Creek. In 1886 the original Blue Mountain Lake Hotel was completely destroyed by fire. It was immediately replaced, however, by a much larger and more hotel-like structure, and it was while EAQUETTE AND BLUE MOUNTAIN LAKES 103 preparing to rebuild that the previously related incident of moving the mill occurred. The new hotel was also destroyed by fire, in 1896, and was never rebuilt. Mt. Holland, bom in 1846, is still living and is still in the hotel business. He now (1920) runs the Lake Harris House at Newcomb, and has been kind enough to furnish me with many reminiscences for this chapter. The success of the Blue Mountain Lake House led Merwin, as has been told, to turn his place into a hotel. But the in- crease in summer travel was so rapid that the need of another hotel was obvious. It w^as supplied by Frederick C. Durant, a cousin of William West, who built the once famous Prospect House in 1881. At the time it was the largest and by far the most luxurious hotel in the woods, and its erection in that remote spot, thirty miles from a railway, was a stupendous and remarkable achievement. Structurally it had no outward beauty, and was merely a gaunt, ungainly pile of piazzas and windows, but inwardlv it contained the latest refinements in comfort and convenience. It was built on a point projecting into the lake and com- manding an unobstructed view in all directions. It held thcee hundred rooms, many baths and open fireplaces, a steam elevator, electric bells, a bowling-alley, a shooting gallery, a billiard room, and a telegraph office. Of greatest historical interest, however, is the fact that every bedroom was furn- ished with an Edison electric light, and that this hotel was the first, not only in the mountains but in the ivorld, to equip its sleeping-rooms with this new luxury. Needless to say such a hotel speedily took its place as one of the unnatural, almost uncanny, wonders of the wilderness. The large hotels on this medium-sized lake were its most conspicuous feature, and they appear to have dwarfed its camp-development. A few camps were built, but not so many as the beauty of the spot would seem to warrant. Among the earliest was that of Mayor Thacher of Albany, on an island opposite Holland's Hotel. This island contained several grotto-like caves that were once a curiosity often visited by tourists. But the building of a dam raised the water in the lake so high as to cover the entrance to these little caverns. 104 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS The island still belongs to the Thacher family. It was bought in 1875 from John Copeland, a guide who had built a rough hunting-lodge upon it. This was remodeled later into an at- tractive camp. Near it, on the main shore, a Mr. Crane of Yonkers built a summer home, and a Colonel Duryea of New York built one near the outlet. i CHAPTER XXXVII ALVAH DUNNING IN the delightful sketch of Orson Phelps, which has been quoted in a previous chapter, Charles Dudley Warner assumes to have found a primitive man, and "svith consummate literary skill exploits the discovery for our delectation. In- deed, his art is so subtle that it scatters gold-dust in our eyes and blinds us to what would otherwise be quite obvious — that Old Phelps, except in appearance, was not primitive at all. He was really wired for all the push-buttons of civiliza- tion. He craved intellectual contacts, was sensitive to the serenest beauties of nature, and had a sedentary abhorrence of the struggle for existence. Alvah Dunning, the hermit guide of Raquette Lake, had none of these traits, but rather those that entitle him to be considered as the real Adirondack prototype of a primitive man. His whole nature slanted back to the beginnings of I things and resented the poachings of progress. He sought solitude and provender in the woods, not beauty. He had a troglodytic dislike of neighbors, a primal tendency to warfare with them, and a savage streak of cruelty. Fortunately this latter failing flared up conspicuously only once in his life — when he nearly killed his young wife for faithlessness. Ordinarily it was a dormant rather than an active taint, and was even unsuspected by many. Passion re- vealed it, and drink would undoubtedly have given it full play, but luckily Alvah was a temperate man. He drank but sel- dom, and never to excess. But if sobriety restrained his prac- tice of cruelty, it did not dull his repulsive relish of a tale of horror. For him the finest man who ever lived was his father's ii friend Nicholas Stoner, the famous scout and Indian-killer of [Revolutionary days, whose prowess in feats of skill was I equaled only by his record of drunken deviltries and fiendish 105 106 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS cruelties. Of these Alvali would delight to tell. With a twinkle in his eye and a chuckle in his voice, he would recount a tale of wantonly inflicted torture that would turn the hearer sick. Yet this same Alvah was far kinder than most guides to his dogs, of whom he always kept several. He resented noth- ing more angrily than their maltreatment. He once turned a lucrative hunting-party out of his camp because a member of it had kicked and abused the dogs. Of such contradictions was Alvah made. In his youth, which lasted till he was very old, he was tall and straight and slim, thin-flanked, and long-armed. He had an Indian's stealth and economy of motion; his strength and endurance; his slyness of resource; and even his curve of feature. Most prominent was his vulturcsquely beaked nose, arching beneath rather small but clear, keen eyes, to whose deadly vigilance the red men paid tribute by calling him "Snake-Eye." The forehead was broad and sloping, and all that was needed was a c^o^\^l of feathers to give the last Indian touch to the head. The mouth was small, and the lips were thin and tightly pressed together when closed, but could part in a pleasant smile when humor moved them. The chin was covered by a scraggly beard that trellised up over his ears. Both hair and beard turned a pure white in his later life, and his skin became as creased and crackled as the bark on an old cedar. There could be, all in all, no more tempting study for the etcher's needle, and fortunately among the former residents of Raquette Lake there was an artist who felt the lure of it. My friend Dr. Arpad G. Gerster made an excellent etching of this excellent subject, which I am per- mitted to reproduce here. He also told me a pretty story that went with it. While he was fishing once with Alvah on Eighth Lake, the guide lost his old silver watch overboard in trying to lift a big trout into the boat. The old "onion" was a worthless thing, but this in many ways childish old man nearly cried over its loss. Dr. Gerster then and there decided to replace it with something better. He had seen an excellent photo- graph of Alvah, taken by Stoddard. From this he made an etching and sold enough proofs to the summer visitors at ALVAPI DUNNING 107 Kaquette Lake to purchase a handsome gold watch. It was bought from Benedict's in New York, and when Mr. Benedict heard of the circumstances he donated a gold chain. This complete outfit was sent to the mountains and presented to Alvah by Mr. W. W. Durant, at Camp Pine Knot, the follow- ing Christmas. The old guide was so surprised and touched by the handsome present that he actually swooned away and had to be revived. He carried the watch ever after, and it was found upon him at his death. Alvah came of stock that explained much of the barbarian that was in him. His father, known as ' ' Scout Dunning, ' ' had served under Sir William Johnson, and was accounted almost as skilled and ruthless an Indian warrior as the more re- nowned Nick Stoner. The two were friends, and of similar general characteristics. After the killing of Indians had ceased to pay, the elder Dunning turned to hunting and trap- ping as a means of livelihood. For this purpose he settled at Lake Pleasant, and here Alvah was born in June, 1816. He began to hunt and trap with his father when only six years old, and he guided the first white men into the Raquette Lake region when he was only twelve. A year prior to this the great event of his life had happened : he had shot his first moose. He had long craved the opportunity, but moose-hunt- ing was considered too dangerous a sport for a youth of eleven to share. Finally, one day his father consented to take him along, but merely as spectator. Alvah was allowed to take his rifle, however, and was given the dog to lead. The father went ahead, and the boy follow^ed, lagging intentionally more and more in the rear. He had secretly made up his mind that he was going to kill a moose himself, and he had concocted a clever scheme for accomplishing his purpose. He had listened attentively whenever the talk had been of moose. He had learned that they will run from the sight or the scent of a man, but will attack him if wounded; that Uhey will usually turn and give fight, if followed by a dog; land that the fatal place to hit them is at the butt of the |ear. Ruminating on these things, he noticed the dog pick jup a scent. Quick as a wink he slipped the leash and let him go. His father heard the commotion, and shouted back to 108 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS know the cause. Alvali said the dog had gotten away from him, but that he would catch him, and, suiting the action to the word, he scampered off as fast as his heels would carry him. After he had run about half a mile, both his haste and his cun- ning were rewarded, for he saw the very sight he had hoped to see — the dog and a moose standing at bay. The two ani- mals were so absorbed in each other that he was able to ap- proach unnoticed. He raised his gun, took careful aim, and fired — and the moose fell dead. Alvah never told the story without adding that this was the proudest moment of his Ufe, but that it was followed by one of deep depression. His father, arriving on the scene, being a man of few words, said little or nothing. He merely pulled out his knife and began skinning the moose. The boy could see plainly, how- ever, that the old hunter was skeptical about what had hap- pened, and was looking carefully for a bullet hole. Alvah was eager to have it show up, too; but it didn't. The whole skin was gone over carefully without the slightest trace of a puncture being found. "Just as I thought,'* remarked the old man, contemptu- ously. "Yer only scart him to death." This was an awful verdict and an awful moment for Alvah. He snatched the skin in despair and went over it again. But in vain. Finally it occurred to him to cut into the animal's brain, and there at last the bullet was found, and the boy^s prowess was more than vindicated. He had aimed of course at the ear, and the moose had so dipped his head at the moment of firing that the bullet passed through the aural cavity and so did its deadly work without leaving any mark on the skin. Such was the remarkable and unique beginning of a long and unequaled career. Alvah probably killed, or helped kill, more moose than any of his contemporaries in these woods. He kept no records, and had only a vague idea of the grand total, but he remembered distinctly that when he hmited with his father — who made a business of killing and selHng moose — they often brought dowTi three or four in a day, and occasionally as many as five. This shows how plentiful the animals were in the early days. ALVAH DUNNING 109 The more remarkable seems their sudden and almost com- plete disappearance during the winter of 1854r-55. This mysterious exodus is considered by zoologists one of the most curious incidents in the natural history of the State. Alvah recalled it distinctly, and never tired of speculating on the causes of this sudden "peterin' out" of his favorite game. It was the more incomprehensible to him because he had never seen so many moose in the woods as in the autumn of 1854. After that, he and others saw and shot only an oc- casional straggler. Who actually killed the last moose has long been a debated question. There have been many aspirants to the distinc- tion. Alvah himself claimed it, and Fred Mather supports his claim by saying: ''The fact is that Alvah Dunning killed the last Adirondack moose in March, 1862." ^ On the other hand, no less an authority than Mr. Madison Grant, after making a lengthy and painstaking investigation of the subject, comes to a different conclusion. He says : I The last authentic moose in the Adirondacks was killed in the au- 'tumn of the same year [1861], on the east inlet of Raquette Lake. A party of sportsmen, guided by Palmer of Long Lake, was canoeing down Marion River toward the lake. On turning a bend in the river they were surprised to see a huge creature start up among the lily- pads and plunge wildly toward the shore. Several charges of shot 5 were fired with no visible effect, when Palmer took deliberate aim with jhis rifle, and killed the animal on the spot. It proved to be a cow moose, the last known native of its race in New York State.^ To decide positively between these two claims seems now fjimpossible. They at least simmer the discussion down to a narrow margin. The dates are but a few months apart. Most people, I fancy, will incline to wish the distinction upon Alvah, if merely from a sense of poetic justice. The man and the event seem logically interlocked. To be told that Alvah did not kill the last moose, is like being told that St. Greorge did not kill the last dragon. For the first half of his life Alvah made his headquarters 1 "Men I Have Fished With." Field and Stream, April, 1897. ^Century Magazine, January, 1894. See also: "Moose," Forest, Fish, and rame Conmvission Report for 1001, p. 235. 110 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS around Lake Pleasant and Lake Piseco, and probably would have continued to do so, had not the episode with his faith- less wife occurred. When he discovered that she had strayed from the narrow path, he inflicted so brutal a chastisement upon her that even a somewhat callous backwoods community raised the hue and cry against him. The penalty of the law also was invoked, and his only hope of avoiding arrest, and perhaps something worse, w^as to leave the settlement by stealth and wdth despatch. He plunged into the deeper woods, and remained in them the greater part of his life. For a considerable time, of course, he was obliged to keep in absolute hiding, and his enjoyment of complete solitude determined him to become a permanent hermit. This seemed a perfectly simple thing to do in the woods of those days, but it proved otherwise. The xVdirondacks had been discovered; their deepest solitudes were springing leaks, as it were, and people kept oozing in. Thus all Alvah's eiforts to be a real hermit were sooner or later frustrated, and he took the disap- pointment much to heart. The discovery that civilization abhors a hermit dawned on him as a personal persecution which finally drove him out of the woods. The people who disturbed his loneliness at first were those who knew of his wonderful woodcraft and sought his services as guide. He cared but little for the money they brought him, and less for the company. ''They pay me well enough," he would say, "but I 'd rather they 'd stay out o' my woods. They come, and I might as w^ell guide 'em as anybody, but I 'd ruther they 'd stay ter hum and keep their money. I don't need it. I kin git along without 'em. They 're mostly dumed fools, anyhow!" This estimate of city-dwellers fell often from his lips. It was not evoked solely by flippancy of dress or awkwardness in woodcraft; it was meant to imply in many cases nothing less than intellectual inferiority. Early in his career he had discovered that the man he was guiding thought the earth was round, that it turned over like a restless sleeper in the night, and did other strange things utterly out of keeping with a rational universe. Alvah was convinced that he had met a ALVAH DUNNING 111 freak, and treasured the experience as a delightful joke. He told it to those who were expected to relish the keen humor of the thing, but often only to find that he had added another freak to his list. This gradually became so extended that he came to believe that most people who wanted a guide also needed a keeper. Those who wished to stand well with him used diplomacy and allowed him to think that they shared his point of view. Argument was useless. He would take a cup of water, turn it over, and remark cynically : "Ain't that what wud happen to yer lakes and rivers if yer turned 'em upside down? I ain't believin' no such tommy- rot as that!" And he never did. Although he lived to be nearly ninety, he died in the unshaken conviction that the earth was flat and stationary. His attitude toward the game laws was similar: his reasoning did not go beyond what seemed to him the obvi- ous. There was plenty of game in the woods, and when he was hungrj^ he felt privileged to take it. He looked upon this pre- rogative as a hunter's right of eminent domain — as an inher- ited feudal freedom of the chase. His father had lived by gun and rod, and he had been bred to these weapons of livelihood from infancy. His right to live was his right to kill. He was an old man, moreover, before any radical game laws were enacted, and so he only resented them the more. They were a newfangled notion — another change for the worse. Speak- ing of happier times, he would say : *'In the old days I could kill a little meat when I needed it, but now they 're a-savin' it for them city dudes with velvet suits and pop-guns, that can't hit a deer if they see it, and don't want it if they do hit it. But they 'd put me in jail if I killed a deer 'cause I was hungry. I dunno what we 're a-comin' to in this 'ere free country!" 5 As a matter of fact, he was never put in jail, nor was he ever prosecuted for violating the game laws, although he con- |tinued to break them to the end of his life. The authorities seemed tacitly agreed to leave him unmolested. It was largely out of sympathy for the lonely old man, and partly because they knew that he made no flagrant abuse of his im- 112 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS munity. He never traded in his contraband. He killed only when his larder needed replenishing, and this never happened from any waste on his part. Even when guiding he was averse to any superfluous slaugh- ter, and would oppose it either openly or by stealth. He was always angry if any unused meat was left in the woods, and indignant if any one shot a deer merely for the sake of carry- ing home some part of it as a trophy. This attitude was naturally considered poor business by many of his brother guides, and it made him unpopular with them and the whole breed of porcine hunters. When he consented to act as guide — which was not always — he gave full value for his wages. He neither shirked nor loafed, and if he did not deliver the goods, it was no fault of his. Dr. Gerster has told me of an experience in this connection which shows a surprising sense of honor in one who was often supposed to have very little. It is, moreover, I believe, a unique incident in the annals of guidedom. The doctor was to go out with some untried hunters, and to take his ovm guide. He took Alvah Dunning. The day's sport was badly bungled, and nothing but vexation came of it. The doctor, disgusted, decided to go home early, and attempted to set- tle with Alvah. But the latter, equally disgusted, flatly re- fused to take any money. **I ain't done nothin' to earn it," he said, *'and I won't take it" — and this despite the fact that no share of the day's fiasco attached to him, because he had been forced to submit to the mismanagement of others. Where this was not the case, the word failure was seldom written into his records. He was probably the most wily and resourceful hunter, fisher, and trapper the Adirondacks ever housed. John Cheney and Mitchell Sabattis alone were in his class. They had sturdier characters and broader minds, but it is doubtful if they possessed all his refinements in wood- craft. They spent much time in the woods, but he lived there all of the time, and for the most part alone. The human voice was less familiar to him than the noises of birds and animals, and he often seemed able to understand and speak their lan- guage. He could lure the timid mink from its hole by imita- tive chippering, and trick a frightened deer back to the water's i ;tM .t'-hiii^ l.y Dr. Arpuil ii tierster ALVAH DUXXIXG Venator, piscator et laqueator, natus a.d. 1814, mortuus 10 Martii. igo2 ALVAH DUNNING 113 edge by deceptive bleatings with his throat and splashings with his hands. After his enforced disappearance from the settlements, he became a lone dweller on Blue Mountain Lake. Here he later on fell in and then out with Ned Buntline, and carried on his famous guerrilla feud with that — from Alvah's point of view — highly undesirable and offensive citizen.^ This and the fact that people began to stray into Blue Mountain Lake more frequently than seemed consistent with his ideas of solitude, caused him to move over to Raquette Lake in 1865. Here, for twelve winters, he lived absolutely alone on its shores, and it was a long time before he could complain of being crowded by summer visitors. One of the earliest of these was Adiron- dack Murray, whom he liked and for whom he often guided. Alvah at first made his home on Indian Point, but in the autumn of 1869 he took possession of the open camp on Osprey Island which Murray had built there and occupied for three summers. Alvah enclosed this and lived in it till it burned down in 1875. He then erected a rough shanty — his abodes were always very crude and unlovely affairs — and continued to occupy the island till about 1880.^ About this time, Dr. Thomas C. Durant, who owned the island, wished to sell it to his nephew Charles Durant. Alvah was, therefore, requested to vacate. But he refused. It al- ways made him angry to be told that his squatter rights were not tantamount to a clear title. In this case he not only took 1 See Chap. XXXVIII, " 'Ned Buntline.' " 2 This second home on Osprey Island was built at the foot of a big cedar, three feet in diameter. Once during a severe storm Alvah noticed that the side of his jhanty was lifted several inches every time the big tree swayed in the gale. When the wind subsided, he cut down the dangerous tree and dug up the roots. Under them he found a bed of coals, which seemed to indicate an ancient focus jr hearth. In this he discovered the shreds of three earthen pots, which must have been of great antiquity, because the tree proved to be between four and five lundred years old. Alvah gave these interesting relics to Dr. Arpad G. Gerster )f New York, who now has his summer home on Long Lake, and to whom 1 am ndebted for the facts concerning them. Dr. Gerster also informs me that near he Brown's Tract Inlet shanty Alvah found other finely decorated bits of pot- ery, and a very beautiful ax of greenish stone. All of which tends to confirm he theory, advanced by some historians and mentioned earlier in this work, that hese woods once housed a prehistoric race whose skill in the rude arts exceeded hat of the Indians. 114 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS the position of a man with a warranty deed behind him but he made tlie more impressive gesture of a man with a gun at his shoulder. He threatened to shoot any one who put foot on the island. This brought matters to an awkward dead-lock, of course. Eviction by force had many drawbacks and the door to diplomacy was not easy to open, but Mrs. Thomas Duraut finally found a way of doing it. She caught the trouble maker in an uncommissioned mood one day and induced liim to come and drink a cup of tea with her at Camp Pine Knot. He had, as she knew, a particular weakness for this beverage, and in this case, combined with feminine persuasiveness, it acted as an opiate in his stubbornness. He consented to move off the island and to accept one hundred dollars for being so obliging. After the conference he said: '*Alvah can be coaxed, but he can't be druv." Despite this he always nursed a grouch over the incident. He decided that Raquette Lake was getting far too crowded for comfort, and again he tried to find seclusion by settling on the shores of Eighth Lake in the Fulton Chain. But his fate pursued him here. His loneliness did not endure. He soon found himself on a highway of ever increasing travel, and finally a small shanty, pretending to cater to tourists, was built on the only island in the lake. This looked like a hotel to Alvah, and in despair he wandered back to Raquette Lake. This time he built near the entrance to Brown's Tract Inlet. From time to time he went back to Eighth Lake, however, and he made his last headquarters in the woods there. His hut near Brown's Tract Inlet was built in 1896, and for three years he enjoyed it unmolested. But then one day a stranger appeared on the scene, armed with legal papers, legal phrases, and bank-bills. He explained to Alvah that the site he occupied was needed for a railway station,^ and offered to pay him for vacating it. The announcement that a locomotive was actually to come puffing and screeching to the very shores of his sanctum, affected him much as if he had been hit by it. He was simply stunned into docility. Instead of offering to shoot the stranger, he meekly accepted his money and agreed to move out. But his spirit and his heart seemed broken. 1 For the Raquette Lake Railroad. See Chap. XL, "Railroads." ALVAH DUNNING 115 *'I guess I Ve lived too long," he said, with a real tear in his voice. '*I used to hope I could die in peace in the wilder- ness where I was bora, but if I don't slip my wind pretty quick, I guess there ain't goin' to be no wilderness to die in. I 've heerd tell the Rockies was bigger. I guess I '11 go out yonder and hunt for a quiet corner out o' reach of tootin' steamboats and screechin' en-gines." And he did. This old man of eighty-three, who felt himself jostled and elbowed out of overcrowded woods, wandered forth across the continent in a last, long quest for solitude and peace. The parting seemed to pull at his heartstrings as nothing else had ever done before. He even went around and said good-by to his friends among the summer campers, most of whom had always treated him with charity and kindness. He seemed to realize it now more than ever. His farewells were not effusive, but their simplicity was touched with sol- emn pathos. There was something in them after all of royal abdication. Here was a rude king of the woods leaving his inherited domain — a Lear of the forest being driven out into the night. It was in 1899 that he went West, but he did not stay. The pull of the Adirondacks proved too strong. Within a year he was back on the shores of his beloved Raquette Lake again — this time on Golden Beach, near South Inlet. But it was not the Alvah of yore that came back; it was Alvah the last phase — a man broken in spirit, and bending beneath the weight of years and disappointments. He fished and hunted a little, and was employed by the old campers as ex-officio guide or salaried guest in the summer. The winters he no longer spent alone ; he even consented to spend them in cities. His double trip across the continent had softened his attitude toward travel and companionship. It had changed the hermit into something of a gadabout. He spent his last winters in various places with different people, but principally with a sister who lived in Syracuse. In March, 1902, he attended the Sportsmen's Show in New York. On his way home he stopped at Utica and put up for the night at the Dudley House— a hotel where illuminating- gas was still in use. The following morning he was found 116 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS asphyxiated in his bed — the gas-jet had been leaking all night. That the occurrence was an accident there seems no good rea- son to doubt. His death took place on March 10th, and the papers all over the country published lengthy obituaries of *'The Last of the Great Adirondack Guides." The manner of his death was the crowding irony of his fate. All his life he had considered himself hounded by the en- croachments of civilization, and he succumbed at last in at- tempting to use one of its antiquated devices. In the safety of the woods he might have Uved to be a hundred ; as it was, he died prematurely from the dangers of a room, at the age of eighty-six. As he had begun to hunt and trap with his father when six years old, he had a record of virtually eighty years in the woods. During most of them he lived entirely alone, and during many of them in complete isolation. Up to the last few years of his life he retained wonderful vigor and endurance. Commenting on this in a delightful little sketch ^ of the guide he knew so well, my friend Dr. Gerster says: I saw him in his 70th year carry a boat across to Eighth Lake, a distance of one and a half miles, with two rests only, and I found him on another occasion at dawn on the beach of his lake, fast asleep, curled up like a woodchiick, dusted all over with snow which was falling. He had come to the lake after dark. His calls were drowned by the wind, hence not heard by us ; so he decided to sleep where he was and succeeded capitally, without blanket or sheUer. Alarmed about him, we started to look for him on the carry, where many trees had been blown down by the storm. He slept like a child and had to be shaken out of his slumbers. He remained, indeed, throughout his life a child of the woods, not only physically but mentally and morally. And as such he must be judged. He was notable for his skill, his her- mit habits, and a strange mixture of lawlessness and honesty. He had no gift for making friends. He was, rather, an adept in the gentle art of not making them. Yet he was friendly and faithful to those whom he liked. His defenders were among the best sportsmen; his detractors were, for the most part, among the worst. 1 "Etching as a Diversion." The Medical Pickuick, October, 1916. I ALVAH DUNNING 117 His fellow guides, as a rule, did not like him, but Jack Shep- pard, one of the most popular and intelligent Fulton Chain guides of the old days, who had known Alvah for thirty years, once spoke of him to Fred Mather in these words :^ "He was an honest and hospitable man of the old style, all of whom looked on game laws as infringements on the rights of men who live in the woods. He was the last of a type that is passed. He killed deer when he needed it, caught a trout out of season to bait his trap, firmly believed it a sin to kill waste- fully, and destroyed less game than many who cried out against him." Let this be his epitaph. It would be difficult to phrase a better one for this old "hunter home from the hill." i"Men I Have Fislied With." Field a7id Stream, April, 1897. CHAPTER XXXVIII "NED BUNTLINE" THIS was the pen-name of Edward Zane Carroll Judson, who swaggered into the lime-light of popularity as a swash-buckling adventurer and a prolific purveyor of penny- dreadfuls, about the middle of the last century. His contri- bution to English literature was not lasting, but it was quan- titative and lucrative. It brought him a measure of fame, and he is given a place in dictionaries of biography. He earned mention here by living in the Adirondacks in his later life and leaving a short but vivid trail behind him. He was born in Philadelphia in 1822. His father was a lawyer of standing in that city. The elder Judson wished his son to become a clergyman, but the boy decided on a different career at a very early age. "When only eleven years old he ran away from home and went to sea as a cabin-boy. A year later he found berth on a man-of-w^ar. According to one account of his life, when he was thirteen years old he saved the occupants of a small craft that had been run into and upset by a Fulton Ferry boat. The rescue was plucky and spectacular, and w^as brought to the attention of President Van Buren, who, as reward, offered the young hero a commission as midshipman in the United States Navy. Ned was probably more than thirteen at the time, however, for the records show that he was midshipman from February 10, 1838, to June 8, 1842, when he resigned. During these four years in the navy he added to his reputa- tion for valor by fighting seven duels \\ath shipmates who as- sumed to slight him for having been a common sailor. He came out of all these encounters victorious and unscathed. It was also during this time that he began writing, and his first story was published in the ''Knickerbocker Magazine" in 1838. It met with marked success, .and others followed rap- idly. 118 ^*NED BUNTLINE" 119 Ned was in the Mexican War and in the Seminole War in Florida. In 1S48 he became editor of a New York story- paper called "Ned Buntline's Own." In the spring of the following year the memorable quarrel between the American actor Edwin Forrest and his English rival Macready, came to a head in the Astor Place riots. The press on both sides of the controversy was virulently bitter, and the editor of **Ned Buntline's Own" used the paper for language of the most blatant spread-eagleism. On the eventful night of May 10, 1849 — when things came to a violent climax — Ned was arrested for haranguing a crowd in Lafayette Place. Ho was sentenced to pay a fine of $250 and to one year's imprison- ment. After his release he began writing stories again, and then it was that he took the name of '*Ned Buntline," from the paper he had formerly edited. Thereafter he w^as scarcely known by any other. He had a fatal facility for turning out trashy stuff about impossible heroes and foiled villains. While editor of the story-paper he is said to have run six serials at the same time from his o\\m pen but under different names. There was al- ways the ending of one and the beginning of another in each issue of the paper. And this sort of thing paid surprisingly well. It is recorded that he earned no less than $20,000 a year in the heyday of his ink-slinging. In his earlier days he wrote a realistic sketch of Bowery life called *'The Mysteries and Miseries of New York." It was made into a play and put on the stage under the name of "New York as It Is." F. S. Chanfrau made a big hit in the leading part of Mose, who was a pure-hearted, slangy-mouthed Bowery tough, clad in a red shirt and acutely tilted Derby hat. The picturesque pearls that fell from his lips were eagerly garnered into the vocabulary of every school-boy of the time. Ned went to the Adirondacks in 1859, and made them his headquarters for two years. Soon after the Civil War broke out he enlisted and served ^vith distinction. He came out of it with five wounds, one of which made him slightly lame for the rest of his life. In Suffolk, Va., he was appointed chief of scouts, with the rank of Colonel. Wlien his regiment went into -udnter quarters he was given a cabin in which to do his 120 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS writing. In his leisure moments he was always writing or— drinking. An extremist in all things, he was extremely fond of the cup that cheers. He reformed in later life, however, and became a temperance lecturer for the Order of Good Tem- plars. He also founded the Order of the Sons of Temper- ance. According to Fred Mather, who wrote an interesting sketch of him for "Forest and Stream" (July, 1897), Ned was the discoverer and original promoter of Buffalo Bill (William C. Cody) and Texas Jack (John Omohondro). He pulled them out of an unappreciative West, clothed them with the romance of thrilling adventure, and launched them loudly on a recep- tive East. The sequel is known to every one. Ned left the Adirondacks in 1861, and settled in the Cats- kills. He built himself a really handsome home there in Stamford, Delaware County, N. Y., and transferred to it the name of "Eagle's Nest." There he spent the last years of his life, and there he died on July 16, 1886. He undoubtedly had in him the makings of a big man, but he sadly misused the ingredients. He was unquestionably brave and daring, a sincere patriot, and a stanch and generous friend, but he spoiled these sterling traits by loud mouthings and a braggadocio manner that made him appear like one of his o^vn cheap heroes. He took himself, his deeds, and his writings with profound and admiring seriousness, and utterly lacked the saving grace of humor. He was at times as tender- hearted as a woman, and again as fierce as a tiger. The tail of his eye was always scouting for trouble, and if he failed to find it for his own account, he was eager to take up the quarrel of any friend or chance acquaintance. He carried a chip on his shoulder wherever he went, and of course he took it to the Adirondacks with him. He settled there, as has been said, in 1859. He built a log cabin on the north shore of Eagle Lake, and called it "Eagle's Nest." He took with him to this lonely spot a very young wife, who died there in childbirth the following year. She was buried near the cabin, but many years later her remains were removed to the Protestant Cemetery on Blue Mountain "NED BUNTLINE" 121 Lake, where a bronze tablet, bearing the f ollomng inscription, was placed over them : Here lie tlie remains of Eva Gardner, wife of E. C. Z. Judson (Ned Buntline), together with her infant. She died at "Eagle's Nest" March 4, 1860, in the nine- teenth year of her age. and was hiiried where a constant desecration of her grave was inevitahle, to avoid which the bodies were removed and this monument erected in 1S91 by William West Durant. While in the mountains Ned spent most of his time writing, with hunting and fishing as local relaxations. When he had written himself very dry, which was not infrequently, he would go to the settlements — usually to Glens Falls — and sit near a barrel of whisky as long as it lasted. Then he would return to his wild-wood home, for he was punctilious about his sprees: he would never take more than one barrel at a sitting. His Adirondack record was true to type. It was lifted into local prominence by a spectacular feud with Alvah Dunning. After settling on Eagle Lake he arrogated to himself the sole right to fish in its waters and hunt on its shores. They be- came his private preserve, and he resented any intrusion. He is said to have frightened away several surprised fishermen by appearing before his cabin, dressed as an Indian, executing a war-dance, and emitting threatening yells. To this, if nec- essary, would occasionally be added a warning shot from liis gun. After building Eagle's Nest, Ned hired Alvah Dunning as guide and helper. The partnership was brief, however. The two men rubbed each other the wrong way from the start. They quarreled at first over little things, and then over bigger ones. The final split was over the killing of game. Ned, who had money and could buy all the supplies he needed, main- tained that the few game laws which then existed should be rigidly observed and enforced, and set himself up as their self- appointed crusader. Alvah, who had no money, and had al- ways subsisted by his gun and rod, claimed the right to kill a deer or catch a fish whenever, and also wherever, he was hun- gry. He snapped his fingers, moreover, at Ned's assumed control of Eagle Lake. Neither man could get the other's 122 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS point of view. Argument became abuse, and abuse verged on violence. They parted swearing eternal hatred and ven- geance, and threatening to shoot each other on sight. This they never did, but they did everything else that could annoy and harass, and the incidents of their locally famous feud were the daily gossip of the woods around 1860. Speaking of the affair to Fred Mather in later years, Ned, in tones of contempt, referred to Alvah as an ' ' amaroogian. " The author of ''Men I Have Fished With" admits he could find this word in no dictionary, and then adds: *'Yet some- how I seem to know that it signifies a kind of unsophisticated woodsman, who cannot fraternize with a man of the world like Ned Buntline." The Adirondack sojourn yielded a more permanent bid for fame, however, than the Alvah Dunning quarrel. In the first enthusiasm of his new mountain home, Ned sat down and wrote some verses in its praise that had a catching lilt and a true ring to them. They spread like wild-fire through the papers of the day, and were finally enshrined in some anthol- ogies. As they are the only relic of his enormous output that has lived, and as they were written in and about the Adiron- dacks, they may fittingly be appended here : Where the silvery gleam of the rushing stream Is so brightly seen on the rock's dark green, Where the white pink grows by the wild red rose, And the bluebird sings till the welkin rings; Where the red deer leaps and the panther creeps. And the eagles scream over clifT and stream; Where the lilies bow their heads of snow, And the hemlocks tall throw a shade o'er all ; Where the rolling surf laves the emerald turf, Where the trout leaps high at the hovering fly. Where the sportive fawn crops the soft green lawn, And the crow's shrill cry bodes a tempest nigh — There is my home — my wildwood home. CHAPTER XXXIX OLD MILITARY ROADS THERE are three so-called "Old Military Roads" that were opened through the Adirondacks at a very early date. Tradition, in each locality through which they ran, asserts that they were built by the soldiers in 1812, but tradi- tion, it will be easy to show, is not supported by the recorded facts. These roads can be seen on certain early maps. The earli- est I have discovered was published by John H. Eddy in 1818, and is in the Boston Public Library (No. 143.5). The roads appear again on a map of New^ York State published in 1830 by Silas Andrus of Hartford, Conn. (Boston Public Library, Map 1016.12), and on a map by Andrus & Judd of Hartford, published in 1833. The roads ran actually between the following places. The most southerly one ran from Fish House to Russell; the cen- tral one from Chester to Russell ; and the northern one from Westport to Hopkinton. The central road from Chester to Russell was the earliest one to be projected. It was authorized by an act of 1807 "to lay out and open a road from the to-s\Ti of Chester to the town of Canton." Chester is in the northern part of Warren County, just south of Schroon Lake. Canton is in the central part of St. Lawrence County, a little north of Russell. The road only reached this latter place at first, as shown by maps of 1818 and 1833. The extension to Canton was not made till 1834. The exact course of this road was as follows : Starting at Chester it ran northwesterly into and through Essex County, following approximately the North Branch of the Hudson River. It then turned to the west, passing through the ex- treme northeastern comer of Hamilton County and crossing there the outlet of Long Lake. Thence it passed into the 123 124 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS extreme southwestern corner of Franklin County, and so into St. Lawrence County, skirting the southern end of Big Tupper Lake. After that it followed the general direction of the Grasse River to Russell. Those interested in seeing the exact course of this first highway through the mountains can easily do so by securing one of the folders (Four-Track Series No. 20) published by the Hudson River Railroad Company. This folder contains an excellent map of the central lake region of the Adirondack Mountains, and outlines the course of the road in question. It refers to it as ''the Old Mihtary Road, built in 1812, from Ogdensburg to Lake George. Now nothing but a trail except in portions which have since been improved. ' * This inscription offers several points of interest. It tends to perpetuate the persistent legend that the road was a mili- tary one, built by the soldiers in 1812. This is clearly dis- proved by the several acts passed by the Legislature concern- ing the road. They do not contain the remotest hint of any military purpose. The road was begun, moreover, in 1808. It was evidently completed, or nearly so, in 1812. But that was a mere coincidence. Nor did it extend from Ogdensburg to Lake George. Such connections were made at a much later date. The original road began at Chester and extended to Russell only. As late as 1833 the map to which I have re- ferred indicates the road as "State Road from Chester to Russell." Attention should be called to the fact that on the Hudson River folder the first long westerly bend of the road passes along the northern edge of Hamilton County, instead, as in the older maps, of skirting the southern edge of Franklin County. A peculiar circumstance which people have associated with this road has undoubtedly helped to lend color to the fable of its military origin. At two points comparatively near the road the ruins of old English cannon have been discovered, and were still visible in 1905. One cannon lay in the Anthony Ponds clearing, just south of the road in its westerly turn across the outlet of Long Lake. The other lay about two miles south of Big Tupper Lake, very near the boundary line between Hamilton and St. Lawrence OLD MILITARY ROADS 125 counties. This also w^as south of the old road. Both of the cannon had fallen to pieces with age ; their wood had turned to mould, their iron to rust. Their brass barrels alone had re- sisted the ravages of time. These showed them to be of Eng- lish make and 14-pounders. A strange but enlightening thing happened to the Tupper Lake cannon. After it fell to pieces from decay a tree grew up within the circle of one of the iron tires of its wheels. This tree, a beech, was two feet in diameter in 1900, and expert woodsmen said it could not be less than one hundred years old at that time. As the wheel could not fall off the gun- carriage till after decay had set in, it is virtually certain that this cannon — and probably its mate, only a few miles away — was abandoned not only before 1812 but before 1800. In other words, these cannon were left in the woods long before the so-called ''Old Military Road" w^as opened, and their being found near it is mere coincidence. The only plausible explanation of their presence in the heart of the woods seems to be the following : In 1776, at the outbreak of the Revolution, Sir John John- son, son of Sir William, was forced to flee from his ancestral home near Johnstown with a number of his Tory friends and followers. They made their way through the heart of the Adirondacks to Montreal.^ They had every reason to believe that they would be followed and attacked. They had, there- fore, every reason to carry with them as many defensive weapons as they could. There were two brass field-pieces that guarded the gates of Johnson Hall. They disappeared at this time. The records do not state that Sir John carried them wdth him, but this now seems highly probable. It was, at all events, possible. There was snow on the ground, for the party traveled on snow-shoes. It would have been feasible, therefore, to drag the cannon along on sleds. At Raquette Lake the party was overtaken by the spring thaw. They dis- carded their snow-shoes and began building birch-bark canoes for further progress by water. This would, of course, necessitate the abandonment of the cannon at that point, and how they came to be found much 1 See Chap. VI, under "Raquette." 126 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS farther north can only be conjecture and anybody's guess. An unsuccessful attempt to save them may have been made at a later date. Be that as it may, there is much circumstantial evidence to connect these cannon with those that stood in front of Johnson Hall, and their presence in the woods can be accounted for by no more plausible theory. The next road to be authorized and begun was the northerly one from North West Bay (now Westport), on Lake Cham- plain, to Hopkinton in St. Lawrence County. This became the most important and best-kno^^^l road of the three under consideration. It began to feed the most rapidly growing set- tlements, and long stretches of it have been improved and are in use to-day. It ran, and still runs, through the village of Saranac Lake, and one of the outlying streets, near Highland Park, is called **Old Military Road." This name was formerly applied to the entire highway, and the usual explanation was offered — that it was built by the soldiers in 1812. But here, as in the case of the two other roads, it can be shown that the supposi- tion of military genesis is pure fable. The original course of this road was as follows : Starting at North West Bay, or Westport, it ran through ElizabethtowTi to North Elba, past John Brown's farm to Ray Brook. From there it followed the ''upper road" to Saranac Lake, entered *'the pines" by John Benham's old cabin, and emerged by the Baker Bridge. Here it crossed the original wooden bridge, turned around the north end of the first Ensine Miller house, and climbed the hill to Highland Park, coming into it near Mrs. Nichols's property. It then followed, not exactly but in a general direction, the Park Avenue of to-day, finally merging with it at a spot still traceable. This is near the sanatorium gate and the houses owned by Dr. Brown and Mrs. Wicker. Entering the sanatorium grounds the old road followed about the course of the present one, but turned at the north comer of the Administration Building and climbed the hill past Camp Liberty, and then skirted the edge of the woods that border the Smith pasture. At the two last-named places the traces of an old road are OLD MILITARY ROADS 127 plainly visible. From the Smith woods the road emerged near the Kelleyville school-house, and then followed approxi- mately the present road to Peck's Comers, and so on to Dick Finnegan's. Here it left the present Harrietstown road, but joined it again at the brook in the hollow. Here again the old road left the present one and turned to the right by Will Manning's bam. Again the two joined for a little way, then diverged, and finally reunited at Two Bridge Brook. From there on the old road took virtually the course of the present "stone road" through West Harrietstown, passing the Noke's settlement, and so on toward Paul Smith's. Near where the church of St. John's in the Wilderness now stands and where Levi Rice the pioneer settler once lived, the road turned north and twisted around Barnum Pond up to McCollum's and then on to Sam Meacham's old place to the west of Meacham Lake. From here the road turned northwesterly, following in gen- eral direction the East Branch of the St. Regis River into St. Lawrence County. Reverting now to the theory of military genesis, there are no records in the War OflSce, nor in the general literature of 1812 to support it. It is completely refuted, moreover, by the legislative acts referring to the road. The first was passed April 5, 1810. It read: *' An Act to establish and improve a road from North West Bay on Lake Champlain, to Hopkinton in the County of St. Lawrence." The text of the act says that the new road is '^to communi- cate with the road leading through the town of Keene and other towns in the coutny of Essex to North West Bay on Lake Champlain." As the Town of North Elba had not been divided from the Town of Keene in 1810, the reference is to an existing road from Westport through North Elba, which had been opened two or three years earlier at private expense. That this road already extended as far as Saranac Lake village (which lies partly in North Elba) is shown by a further reference in the act, which speaks of the bridge across the Saranac River (the Baker Bridge) having been carried away by a flood, and ''the said road thereby, and by the falling in of trees and want of repairs, hath become impassable for horses and carriages." 128 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS This shows that the eastern part of the road had been opened before 1810. An act passed June 19, 1812, shows pre- vious appropriations to "have been found entirely inadequate to open and improve" the road. It was not, therefore, used, nor to any extent usable, in 1812. Finally, on April 17, 1816, an act was passed to ''complete" the road, and one set of com- missioners was appointed to complete the west end, and an- other the east end. The evidence of all the acts shows clearly that the road was not built in 1812, nor by the soldiers. It was begun about four years before the war, and finished about four years after. Its claim to being a military road, there- fore, becomes purely legendary. Even the earliest map (John H. Eddy, 1818) labels it ''State Road North West Bay to Hopkinton." No early map or history gives it a military designation. Yet there is no doubt that it was locally known as the ' ' Old Military Road," and that this name not only has clung to it but has gradually replaced its lawful title of "North West Bay Road." This may have come about, I am inclined to believe, through the following circumstances : A glance at the map of Grants and Patents will show that the North West Bay Road, a few miles west of Westport, entered and crossed the Old Military Tract. This tract has been fully described in a preceding chapter. It need only be recalled here that it was a land feature of great prominence in its day. Its object was impressed on men's minds, and its name was frequently on their lips. It is not at all improbable, therefore, that the first road to be broken through it was spoken of as the "Old Military Tract Road." Nor is it im- probable that the tendency to abbreviation soon asserted itself, and that the word "tract" was gradually dropped from the title. This would pass the name "Old Military Road" down to a second generation that knew nothing of its possible origin, and referred it to a mere association of ideas. I can- not say that this explanation is correct, for I have been unable to confirai it. I can only claim that it has plausibility, where the 1812-soldier theory has none. Even if correct, it helps us out with this road only, and throws no light on how the other two came to be called "Old Military Roads." OLD MILITARY EOADS 129 "We now come to the last of these — the one from Fish House to Russell. Fish House was the summer home of Sir William Johnson, on the Sacondaga River, a few miles north of Johnstown, in Fulton County. From here the road passed northwesterly into Hamilton County. It skirted the north shore of Lake Pleasant and then passed the south shore of Raquette Lake. From there it continued to the outlet of Albany Lake, and then crossed the northeast corner of Herkimer into St. Lawrence County, striking the St. Lawrence Turnpike about ten miles below Russell. The first part of this road, from Fish House to Raquette Lake, followed the old Indian trail into the wilderness, and is the one used by Sir John Johnson in his retreat. Albany Lake (named after the road, which was also known as the Albany Road) is now Nehasane Lake, on Dr. Webb's great preserve. The original act authorizing this road was passed June 19, 1812, for "opening and making a road between the City of Albany and the river St. Lawrence." This is how the road came to be called the Albany Road. It really started at Al- bany, for a primitive road as far as Fish House already ex- isted. It reached the St. Lawrence Turnpike in 1815, but was not completed to the St. Lawrence River till later. This St. Lawrence Turnpike was an early road running across St. Lawrence County from the Oswegatchie River, through Russell, to Hopkinton. It was used in some of the mihtary movements of 1812, and acquired the title of a mili- tary road. It may be that our Adirondack roads, by connect- ing with it, were considered entitled to share its martial glory. However this military legend arose, it has certainly fattened on tradition, and the remaining traces of *'01d Military roads, built by the soldiers in 1812," are pointed out in various sec- tions of the mountains. Sometimes, mere loops and branches of the main highways are so designated. The three roads under discussion were, of course, most primitive affairs. They were little more than what the lum- bermen call wood roads to-day — trails along which the trees have been cut down, with here and there a little filling in and 130 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS grading. They were passable enough in winter, but impass- able in the spring, and impossible in the summer. Hough, in his *' History of St. Lawrence County," speaks of the two roads to Russell as falling rapidly into decay and disuse, and being virtually abandoned at an early date. This is borne out by Dr. Todd's book on Long Lake. He evidently saw no signs of the Old Military Road, for he speaks of the nearest road stopping six miles short of the settlement. This was a new road from Lake Champlain to Carthage, authorized by the Legislature in 1841. The only Old Military Road to be kept up and improved for any considerable length of time was the North West Bay road. CHAPTER XL ADIRONDACK RAILROADS IT is somewhat surprising to find that several of the earli- est schemes for building railroads in this State contem- plated lines running into or through the Adirondacks. They were usually allied with navigation projects that planned to connect the larger lakes and rivers into a continuous water- way through the mountains. The first railroad in the State was chartered in 1826. The first primitive train was run from Albany to Schenectady in 1831. By 1845 there were only about 700 miles of railway in operation, and yet by this time several schemes for Adiron- dack lines were on foot. The earliest one traces back to 1834 and the passage of "An act to incorporate the Manheim and Salisbury Rail- Road." In 1837 the name of this proposed road was changed to "The Mohawk and St. Lawrence Railroad and Navigation Company," by an act authorizing the construction of a rail- way and the making of a canal and slack-water navigation from the Erie Canal in the town of Danube or Little Falls, in the county of Herkimer, to the river St. Lawrence, in the county of St. Lawrence." In 1838 a pamphlet and map were published,* showing the proposed course of the railway, but not of the water route. The road was to start at Little Falls, run northeasterly along the East Canada Creek to the west shore of Piseco Lake, and thence northerly to the south end of Raquette Lake. This road never got beyond the paper stage. I have before me another pamphlet,^ being the report of a survey in 1838 for a railway from Ogdensburg to Lake Cham- plain. Its sole interest here lies in the fact that two routes 1 Papers and Documents relative to the Mohawk and St. Latorence R. R. and Navigation Co. J. Munsell, Albany. 1838. 2 Assembly Document No. 133, Janvnry 30, 1839. 1.31 132 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS were suggested for the road, and that the southern one, with Port Kent as a terminus, would have passed through the northeastern comer of the woods. The other one was to run to Plattsburg, without touching the Adirondacks. The whole project fell through at the time. It was revived in 1845, how- ever, and the original survey was used for the Northern Rail- road, which was built between Ogdensburg and Malone. In 1846 an act was passed 'Ho provide for the construction of a railroad and slackwater navigation from or near Port Kent, in Lake Champlain, to Boonville in Oneida County." This was to be another combination rail and water route through the heart of the mountains. The railway was to strike the Saranac River near McClenathan Falls (now Frank- lin Falls). Thence progress was to be ''by river, canal, and lake navigation" through the Saranac River and Lakes, the Raquette River, Long Lake, "Crochet and Racket" lakes,' and so on out to Boonville. The whole scheme was elaborately outlmed and advertised, but nothing ever came of it. This was the project so hopefully and alluringly referred to by Amos Dean in his pamphlet on the prospects of Long Lake real estate.^ He was, indeed, one of the commissioners ap- pointed to promote the undertaking, and he naturally did all he could to further a scheme from which he would receive much benefit. But his efforts were in vain. WHITEHALL AND PLATTSBUHG RAILROAD This was the first road to come near the "blue line" and to play an important part in starting people across it. It was a spur of only twenty miles from Plattsburg to Point of Rocks or Ausable River Station. It began operations in 1868, and in 1874 was extended a few miles farther to Ausable Forks, be- yond which point it never went. A road from Plattsburg to Whitehall was agitated at an early date, but its building became the storm-center of a once notorious political struggle in which the leading citizens of Plattsburg took a prominent part. The details do not belong here, but they will be found in Kurd's "History of Clinton and Franklin Counties," Philadelphia, 1880. 1 See Chap. XXXIV, "Long Lake." ADIRONDACK RAILROADS 133 THE ADIRONDACK EAILROAD This was the second road to come near the "blue line." It was intended to cross it and penetrate the very heart of the wilderness, but this dream was never realized. It became, however, a large feeder of the region and an important factor in its development. Dr. Thomas C. Durant, the builder and president of the road, helped it greatly by those allied facilities of interior transportation which have been more fully outlined in Chap- ter XXXVI. His son Mr. William West Durant, who became president and general manager of the road after his father's death in 1885, has kindly placed at my disposal a number of old documents, pamphlets, and maps bearing on its early history. It traces back to an act of 1848, * ' incorporating the Sacketts Harbor and Saratoga Railroad Company." Prominent men from different parts of the country were interested in the in- corporation. In 1850 and 1851 extensions of time for building the road were granted, and in 1853 a charter with greatly increased rights and privileges was secured. The previous year a chief engineer A. F. Edwards had been appointed and instructed to make a survey. The result was embodied in a thick pamphlet of one hundred and ten pages, which was printed in October, 1853. This report, besides exhaustive statistics, contains a glow- ing account of the mountainous region the road is intended to traverse. Professor Emmons and Professor Benedict are quoted at length, and even Dr. Todd is introduced as prophet, with his forecast of a possible million of ''virtuous, industri- ous, and Christian population" for the central Adirondacks. The pamphlet admits that among the pioneer settlers there is some disappointment and discontent, but it is attributed to the very lack of those transportation facilities which the new railway will provide. Two routes for it were surveyed and considered. One fol- lowed the valley of the Sacondaga, passing south of Piseco Lake into the valley of the Black River, and so to the shore of Lake Ontario. This was called the southern route. 134 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS The other was to strike the valley of the Hudson at Jessup's Landing, branch off to the southern end of Raquette Lake, and then follow the Beaver or Moose River to the valley of the Black. This was called the northern route. It was favored from the first, and was finally the one on which a beginning was made. By the act of 1853 the company had secured an option on 250,000 acres of Adirondack State lands at five cents an acre. An equal amount was to be donated by private owners on cer- tain conditions. Then the usual trouble began. Some wanted the southern route adopted; others the northern. The com- pany, moreover, by an oversight, had worded its articles of association so as to conflict with the terms of its charter. The Legislature was appealed to. After considerable wran- gling it gave the desired relief, but opposition to the road and antagonistic w4re-pulling had developed. The public grad- ually lost both interest and confidence in the enterprise. After some thirty miles of the right of way had been graded, the company found itself face to face with a financial crisis, and further operations were suspended. Before long, however, efforts were made to renew interest in the road and reestablish its credit. To this end it was evi- dently deemed advisable to change its name to the ''Lake Ontario and Hudson River Railroad Company." This was done in 1857, by an act securing to the new company all the rights and privileges of the old. Home capital was not lured by the new name, however, and an appeal to English investors was made, one of whom was the eminent Thomas Brassy. He and his friends showed in- terest, and sent over two experts to examine the property and the proposition. This commission spent several months in- vestigating, and then handed in a lengthy and highly favorable report. On the strength of this the Englishmen opened nego- tiations to purchase, but these were interrupted and abandoned on account of the breaking out of the Civil War. Shortly before this, for some reason that does not clearly appear, the company had again changed its name to "The Adirondac Estate and Railroad Company," by an act of Feb- mary 18, 1860. But after the -vvithdrawal of the English capi- ADIRONDACK RAILROADS 135 talists, its plight was hopeless. Its affairs were wound up by the courts, and the actual property transferred, through a re- ceiver, to the ownership of Hon. Albert N. Cheney and his associates. This gentleman offered the road to some New York capital- ists, among whom were Dr. Thomas C. Durant and others identified with the building of the Union Pacific. Dr. Durant became enthusiastic over the possibilities in the Adirondack property, and secured control of it. He reorganized it under a special act of April 27, 1863, as the "Adirondack Company." The new charter was very broad and conferred the privileges of a land, railroad, mining, and manufacturing company on the new organization. Its lands, moreover, up to 1,000,000 acres w^ere declared free from State taxes till the year 1883. An amendment to the charter, passed in 1885, gave the rail- road the option of making its terminus on Lake Ontario or the St. Lawrence River. The latter was finally chosen, and I have before me a map, published in 1869, showing the proposed route of the road from Saratoga through the heart of the mountains to Ogdens- burg. After leaving North Creek, it was to pass just north of Long Lake and follow the valley of the Raquette River to the foot of Tupper Lake ; thence along the Grasse River to Canton and Ogdensburg. This was the elaborate plan, but the road was never built beyond the present terminus, North Creek. The progress to that point was as follows : Total: Built December 1, 1S65 25 miles 31, 1868 12 " 23, 1869 12 " 31, 1870 11 " Saratoga to North Creek, 60 miles Operated 1868 Saratoga to Hadley 22 miles 1869 " " Thurman 36 " 1870 " " The Glen 44 " 1871 " " North Creek 60 " The Adirondack Company owned some 650,000 acres of Adirondack land, and much of it— all of Township 47 and 136 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS much of Township 50, Totten and Crossfield Purchase — was heavily wooded with the best pine timber. It had also ac- quired, after lengthy negotiations, the entire estate of the Mclntyre Iron Company, including mines and works, and the value of this acquisition is naturally stressed in its advertising literature.^ The name of the road was changed for the last time, in 1883, to the ''Adirondack Railway Company." In 1889, Mr. William West Durant, president and owner of the road, sold it to the Delaware and Hudson Company. Its lands were gradually disposed of to corporations and private owners. THE CHATEAUGAY RAILROAD The first railroad to cross the "blue line" and run into the mountains was the Chateaugay Railroad from Plattsburg to Saranac Lake, and the first train between these two points was run on December 5, 1887. The origin of this road dates back to 1878, when an act was passed ''authorizing the construction and management of a railroad from Lake Champlain to Dannemora prison." The building of this line was put into the hands of the Superin- tendent of State Prisons. It was completed in 1879, and will be found on maps of the period as the "Dannemora Rail- road." A little later Smith M. Weed of Plattsburg and others who owned valuable ore beds near the Chateaugay Lakes, wanted a railway outlet for their product. They decided to lay a track from Lyon Mountain to Dannemora, and connect with the road already running to that place. For this purpose the Chateaugay Railroad Company was organized in May, 1879, and a lease of the Dannemora Railroad secured from the State. On December 17, 1879, the first regular train ran over the entire line, and on December 18th the first shipment of ore reached Plattsburg. 1 One of the prime objects of the original Sacketts Harbor and Saratoga Rail- road was to connect with the Adirondack Iron Works. In 1854 it had surveyed and located its line to the Lower Works, and merely waited for funds in order to build it. The failure of the railroad to make this long-promised connection was undoubtedly an important contributory cause in the final abandonment of the Iron Works. See Chap. XIV. ADIRONDACK RAILROADS 137 The Chateaugay Railroad was gradually extended from Lyon Mountain to Standish, then to Loon Lake, and finally to Saranac Lake in 1887. The first president of the road was Thomas Dickson, who was at the time president of the Dela- ware & Hudson Canal Company. On January 1, 1903, the Delaware & Hudson Railroad bought the Chateaugay, and broad-gaged it. In 1893, the Saranac Lake and Lake Placid Road was built, and operated between those two places — a distance of only ten miles, for which a charge of ten cents a mile was made. This, like the Chateaugay, was a narrow-gage road, but three rails were laid, so that broad-gage cars arriving at Saranac Lake could be hauled to Lake Placid. This road was also taken over by the Delaware & Hudson in 1903, when it acquired the Chateaugay. hurd's road The next railroad to pass over the ''blue line" and pene- trate the mountains was built in patches by a lumber operator by the name of John Hurd. The road was entirely in Frank- lin County, winding from north to south down its western side, and crossing the **blue line" about ten miles below Santa Clara, at a little place known as ' ' LeBoeuf 's, " where there was a mill and a few lumber shanties. About 1882 John Hurd, Peter Macfarlane, and a Mr. Hotch- kiss, bought 60,000 acres of land in Townhips 10, 11, 14, and 17, Franklin County, and the mills at St. Regis Falls. From this place they soon began building a railway to Moira, seven- teen miles to the north. Here connections were made with the Northern Railroad (now the Rutland) running from Og- densburg to Malone. After this spur was completed Hurd bought his partners out and did his further railroad-building entirely alone. He secured a charter for the "Northern Adirondack Extension Company," and then proceeded to lay twenty miles of track to the south of St. Regis Falls, first to Santa Clara and then to another lumber hamlet near Buck Mountain, called Bran- don. Both of these diminutive and obscure places were most unexpectedly thrust into the lime-light of public attention at 138 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS a later date, and the story of their notoriety is told in the next chapter. The extension of the road to Brandon was made in 1886. Then Hurd decided to carry it twenty-two miles farther south to a point near the shores of Tupper Lake. This last link was completed in 1889, making an entire length of sixty miles. Its name was changed to the "Northern and Adirondack Rail- road," but it was generally spoken of as ''Kurd's Road." It did a lively business but not a profitable one. The owner, who had many other irons in the fire, all hastily and precari- ously financed, soon found himself in trouble and his railway in the hands of a receiver. The building of Webb's road un- doubtedly hastened the collapse of Hurd's. It was sold to a private syndicate in 1895, and the name was changed again to the ''Northern New York Railroad." This syndicate gradually interested some big New York capitalists, and they decided to extend the road across the Canadian line as far as Ottawa. This caused the final chang- ing of the name to the one it now bears — "The New York and Ottawa Railroad." A through service over the line was established in the autumn of 1900. It would have been com- pleted sooner but for the spectacular collapse, in 1898, of the million-dollar bridge the company had just finished building over the St. Lawrence at Cornwall. The last chapter in the history of this road took place at St. Regis Falls on December 22, 1906, when it passed under a bondholders' foreclosure sale to the New York Central, and became a part of that great system. "Uncle John Hurd," as he was popularly called, the builder of a fantastic railroad, the overnight creator of mushroom mills and hamlets, the reckless speculator in lumber lands and deals, was naturally a conspicuous and much-talked-of figure in his brief day of glory. He came from Bridgeport, Conn., and returned there to die in comparative poverty after having looped the loop of spectacular success as an Adirondack lumber-king. He was a man of plunging, bulldog enterprise, with a bluff- ing, blustering knack of controlling hired men and getting things done. He built his railway by gradually extending it ADIRONDACK RAILROADS 139 to nowhere in particular and then creating a semblance of somewhere. One of these sudden somewheres was Santa Clara, wliich he named after his wife, and where he made his residence. Besides the inevitable mill and shanties for the workmen, he built a community store, where all of his em- ployees were forced to trade, and where, it is said, he man- aged to diminish by credit the unpaid wages they had earned. He also erected an assembly hall which was used for many incidental purposes, and regularly as a school and church. Like many a greater magnate who could be aggressively worldly on week-days, Hurd was inclined to be aggressively religious on Sundays. He often entered the pulpit as a lay reader, and at one time he ran a ' ' Sunday School and Church train" over part of his road. He also maintained a resident clergyman in his home at Santa Clara for the benefit of the settlement. He found for the position a young man whose health had broken down and who was eager to come to the mountains in consequence. That young man was Walter H. Larom, now Archdeacon Larom of Saranac Lake, where for many years he was rector of St. Luke's Church. The one large and important place that Hurd started was the village of Tupper Lake. When it became the terminus of his railway there was notliing there but a cow pasture and clearing belonging to old Bill McLaughlin, the pioneer set- tler. Then Hurd built an enormous mill, and the place began to grow. It grew with surprising rapidity, but as a lumber- ing-center only. Its structures were crude and ugly, and its inhabitants were tough and lawless. It had all the outward appearance and inner attributes of a western frontier town. Then, on July 30, 1899, it was almost completely wiped out by fire. This proved really a blessing in disguise, for on the site of the old village there soon rose a far more sightly, more cleanly, more orderly, and more prosperous one. It is still, however, purely a commercial and manufacturing center — the only one of any size in the Adirondacks. Such large concerns as the Santa Clara Lumber Co., the A. Sherman Lumber Co., the Norwood Manufacturing Co., and the International Paper Co. have mills there, and there are others near by at Pierce- field, at Childwold, and at Conifer. 140 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS When Hurd named this place Tupper Lake, he showed true Adirondack aptitude for selecting a misnomer. The village is two miles from the lake whose name it bears, and lies on an artificial body of water called Raquette Pond. The usual in- ternal complications have also developed. The incorporated village of Tupper Lake includes a detached settlement on the other side of Raquette Pond. Tliis is called "Faust" in the post-office directory, and is referred to as "Tupper Lake Junc- tion" in railroad folders. ADIRONDACK AND ST. LAWRENCE RAILROAD This was the first and only railroad to run through the mountains, and was built by Dr. W. Seward Webb, a son-in- law of William H. Vanderbilt. While buying lands for his vast Nehasane Park Preserve, Dr. Webb was impressed by the need and possibiHties of a railway running north and south through the heart of the Adirondacks. If it connected with the existing roads at Herkimer in the south, and Malone in the north, it would not only tap the whole length of the mountains, but would open a new route from New York to Montreal. He laid his scheme before the New York Central people, and tried to induce them to build such a road. They de- murred, however, so he decided to build it himself. He ap- plied to the State for a grant of the right of way, but this was refused. Nothing daunted, he began to buy the right of way himself. Work on the road-bed was begun in 1890. The upper end of the road — from Malone to Lake Clear, and the spur to Saranac Lake — was completed in 1892. On July 1st of that year the first train ran over this section, and all traffic was handled by this route until the southern connection with Herkimer was completed soon after. The following year, 1893, the New York Central bought the road and began to operate it as the Adirondack Division of their main line. They later built a spur from Fulton Chain station to Old Forge.^ Webb's venture was at first derided as a rich man's fool- 1 In 1900 a few wealthy men built the Raquette Lake Railroad. It ran from the main line at Clearwater, now Carter, to the very shore of the lake, near Brown's Tract Inlet. For its size this little road undoubtedly had the wealthiest ADIRONDACK RAILROADS 141 ishness. It was thought that his main object was to have a railway into his own preserve, and it was dubbed ''Webb's Golden Chariot Route." The doctor had the last laugh, how- ever, when the New York Central became eager to buy the road. It has since proved a link of ever increasing strategic value in their system. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF RAILROADS Opened WlIITEnALI, AND PlATTSBURO Plattsburf? to Point of Rocks, 20 miles 1868 Extended to Ausable Forks 1874 First road to come near the "blue line" from the north. Adirondack Railroad Saratoga to North Creek, 60 miles 1571 First road to come near the "blue line'' from the south. Chateauoay Railroad Plattsburg to Saranac Lake, 70 miles - 1^87 Extended to Lake Placid, 1 miles 1893 First road to cross the "blue line" and enter mountains. Hlt?d's Road (N. Y. and Ottawa R. R) Moira to Tupper Lake, 60 miles 1889 Second road to cross "blue line." Adirondack and St. La.tvrence R. R. isnz First and only road through the mountains. board of directors in the country. Amonjj them were J. Pierpont Morgan, W. Soward Webb, Collis P. Huntington, Chauncey JI. Depew, William C. Whitney, Harrj Payne Whitney, and William West PuraJit. CHAPTER XLI SANTA CLARA AND BRANDON IN THE LIME-LIGHT SANTA CLARA, as has been told, was a shantied creation of Hurd and his railroad. Besides his residence, he es- tablished his machine-shops there, and built two mills. For a while, therefore, it was a lively, bustling little place, but after Kurd's failure it relapsed toward the nothingness from which it sprang. The mills fell into disuse and were dismantled, and in 1915 fire destroyed the machine-shops and other build- ings that were never replaced. In 1903 the name of the little hamlet was suddenly thrust into head-line notoriety through a sensational murder that occurred near it. Not far away, and in the Town of the same name, lay a private park of 7,000 acres, belonging to Orlando P. Dexter. Near the center of the estate was a body of water called Dexter Lake, and on its shores was a rather ornate and fantastical residence modeled after the Albrecht Diirer house in Niiremberg. Here the eccentric owner spent much of his time. He was a bachelor and forty years of age at the time of his death. He was a graduate of Yale and a lawyer by profes- sion. Having large means, however, he retired from active practice and devoted himself to the intellectual pursuits of his- tory, genealogy, and the higher mathematics. Absorbed in these studies, for which he had marked aptitude, he became more and more of a recluse in his habits, and showed an in- creasing moroseness of disposition and irascibility of temper. His relations with his Adirondack neighbors developed a bar-, vest of unusually bitter animosity. He bought his lar^ estate by a process of gradual acquisition. When he ha< secured all the land he wanted, he fenced it in, ''posted" it placed guards upon it, and bid all men keep off it. These per^ fectly legal acts appear to have been the signal for a persistenl campaign of lawlessness among his neighbors. They huntc 142 SANTA CLAEA AND BRANDON 143 and fished, and even cut wood on his preserve, with a reckless defiance of consequences that could have been prompted only by malice and hatred. He sought such relief and redress only as the law afforded, but then applied it, it is said, to the last limit of the letter and in a spirit of relentless retaliation. Under such conditions, such a course, however justified, was bound to rouse resentment to the danger point. Personal violence was finally threatened in a series of anonymous let- ters, but Mr. Dexter was a fearless man and paid no attention to them. On the afternoon of September 19, 1903, he started to drive, as he often did, to the near-by post-office at Santa Clara for his mail. He drove alone, but was followed by one of his employees. He had gone but a quarter of a mile on the lonely, winding road that led to the little village, when some one fired a shot from ambush as he passed. He fell from his wagon, and was found a few moments later lying dead in the road. His aged father Henry Dexter, the millionaire founder of the American News Company, was at once notified of the mur- der. After the first shock, he said he would devote his life and all his wealth, if necessary, to ferreting out his son's assassin. But all his efforts and all his wealth failed to unearth the cul- prit. Besides detectives, he had trained bloodhounds carried to the spot, and offered rewards that would have made a poor man rich for life. But they unloosed no ton.gue, although it was said that even children knew the murderer's name. Be that as it may, it has remained sealed forever in a strangely impregnable conspiracy of silence. THE LAMORA-ROCKEFELLER FEUD Santa Clara lies outside the *'blue line." Brandon lies within it, and about twenty miles south of Santa Clara. When Hurd ran his road to Brandon in 1886, there was al- ready a settlement there. It had been built up as a lumber hamlet by Patrick A. Ducey, a wealthy lumborman from Michigan^ who came to the place about 1881. He bought some 30,000 of the surrounding acres, put up the best-equipped mill these woods had ever seen, and began feeding it about 125,000 144 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS feet of lumber a day. He was the first, it is said, to fell trees in the Adirondacks by sawing instead of chopping. He was altogether a hustling, far-sighted, shrewd-witted business man — an Irishman of the best type, jovial, big-heartod, and honest. Many of his workmen wished to buy lots from him and build in Brandon, but he always advised them not to. He told them frankly that the land in the flat and barren village would be worthless the moment he finished lumbering and moved away. This happened around 1890. He carried on extensive and successful operations in other parts of the coun- try for a while, and finally died in Detroit, Mich., in 1903. Before leaving the Adirondacks he tried to induce Paul Smith to buy his holdings. He offered them at $1.50 an acre, and was more than willing to take a long-time note in payment. It was a rare opportunity for Paul, for these lands adjoined his own, but he felt land-poor at the time and let the chance slip, much to his subsequent regret. A little later Mr. William Rockefeller appeared upon the scene, looking for a few acres on which to build a quiet home in the woods. He heard of the Pat Ducey tract and even- tually bought it. About three miles south of Brandon is a charming lake called Bay Pond. Here Mr. Rockefeller de- cided to build. It seemed a very beautiful, quiet, and secluded spot. And it was. Only there turned out to be a hornets '- nest very near it — Brandon. The remnant of this little village consisted at the time of the foolish few who had failed to take Pat Ducey 's advice about not buying his land. Having bought, and being unable to sell, they remained residents of a necropolis. There were a couple of churches, a small hotel, and about fifteen families left in the place. These people awoke one morning to find themselves in a preserve and a dilemma. Rockefeller had bought the land around and in between their houses, and even claimed control of the road that led to them. The consequence was that they could not step off their own land without step- ping on his, and he had made all the surrounding stumps elo- quent with his disapprobation of trespassing. Those who walked could not fail to read. The situation was both awkward and irritating, but Mr. X o I SANTA CLARA AND BRANDON 145 Rockefeller had no intention of leaving it so. He planned to pour oil upon the troubled waters. He offered to buy up Brandon — vicariously, of course. His agents made offers that were unquestionably liberal. Most were accepted with alacrity, but some householders bickered and delayed, and a few refused to sell at all. This minority took the pose of dis- daining tainted money. The owners of the Presbyterian Church were among this number. Rather than sell to Mr. Rockefeller, they pulled down their building, shipped it to Tupper Lake, and re-erected it there — which amounted to doing at their owni expense what Mr. Rockefeller was willing to do at his. All he wanted was to get rid of the church. A crisis in the affairs of any community usually develops an unguessed leader. Brandon was no exception to the rule. What may be called the anti-park faction crystallized around the dictatorship of one Oliver Lamora. He was an old French-Canadian, poor and ignorant, but stubborn and fear- less. He refused to sell at any but his own exorbitant figure, and he announced his intention of hunting and fishing where he had always hunted and fished. He was as good as his word, moreover. He persisted in trespassing, and was as persistently arrested and sued. He showed such obstinacy that every possible form of legal procedure and every petty annoyance of the law was used in retaliation. Action was brought in distant parts of the county, and the old man was put to the trouble and expense of long journeys. But his neighbors raised money to help him out, and a firm of lawyers offered to defend him free of charge. The lower courts non- suited his case, but it was finally won on appeal, and Mr. Rockefeller was awarded eighteen cents in damages and a temporary fishing-injunction against Lamora. Meanwhile another suit had boon brought, and was pending, under the Private Park Law. Here the final decision was of far greater importance. Lamora 's trespassing was defended on the plea that he had a right to fish in any waters stocked by the State. This contention was overruled and the princi- ple established that preserve owners enjoyed an absolute right of exclusion over the waters as well as the lands in their domains. The decision was hailed with delight by the big 146 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS landowners, and with disgust by the little ones, and temporar- ily it only served to embitter the class feeling between the two. Of course the trouble and litigation between a prominently rich man and an obscurely poor one was quickly noised abroad and exploited by the press. The names of Brandon and La- mora became as familiar to the reading public as Rockefeller's own. The leading papers and the social-justice magazines sent special correspondents to Brandon, and long, illustrated articles were the result. Lamora was interviewed and photo- graphed, and became the newspaper idol of the multitude. His pictures alone awakened sympathy. He was a tall and erect old fellow, with snow-white hair and beard, and was usually pictured standing on the steps of his hjimble home, his head thrown back, gazing defiantly over the marshes of Brandon toward the wooded seat of oppression at Bay Pond. In his hand he held a fishing-rod, which smybolized for many the struggle of righteous poverty against unrighteous wealth. As a matter of fact, of course, it merely symbolized foolish stubbornness and reckless poaching. The papers on the whole tried to present the facts im- partially, but the pubUc soon forgot these and the causes of the quarrel in the protracted contest, that ensued. The man who was right lost much public sympathy merely because he was rich; and the man who was wrong gained much public sympathy merely because he was poor. Locally, of course, the feeling against Mr. Rockefeller was bitter and kept grow- ing more and more intense. Lamora was arrested for the first time in 1902. In 1903 the Dexter murder occurred and heartened the malcontents in Brandon to throw off the yoke of oppression in the same law- less manner as Santa Clara had done. Mr. Rockefeller be- gan to receive anonymous letters threatening his life. It is not believed that Lamora had any hand in these, nor was he ever accused of menacing his arch-enemy with personal viol- ence. But, Uke every agitator, he had over-zealous friends. There is little doubt that Mr. Rockefeller's life would have been attempted at this time had he exposed himself as care- lessly as Mr. Dexter did. But he surrounded himself ^4th every precaution of safety. He came and went under an es- SANTA CLAKA AND BRANDON 147 cort of detectives, and his home at Bay Pond was patroled day and night by a small regiment of armed guards. It is said that some of them sat in tree-top platforms watching for the ap- proach of any suspicious persons. The place was actually in a state of siege, and the inmates were prisoners of fear, scarcely daring to step out of doors or even sit by a window. "The Reign of Terror" the newspapers called it. And yet some people felt sorry for Lamora I The prison house-party at Brandon broke up that autumn earlier than planned. The winter came, and passions cooled. Then Mr. Rockefeller deliberately stirred them up again, and did something that gave the Brandonites just cause of com- plaint and resentment against him. A post-office had been established at Brandon in 1887, and the mail for Bay Pond was delivered there. This was considered an inconvenience of distance which might be more fittingly imposed on the un- friendly natives. Mr. Rockefeller, therefore, asked his friend, Henry C. Pajnie, then Postmaster-General, to have the post-office transferred to Bay Pond. This was done with obsequious alacrity. As a result those who wanted their mail — and many of them lived far beyond Brandon — were subject to a lengthened tramp along a road bristling with trespass signs. This was perhaps as galling as anything that had hap- pened, but the sufferers sought redress in the most approved manner. They circulated a petition asking for the restora- tion of their post-office to its former site. Seventy-four in- terested persons signed this petition, and it was sent to Wash- ington. There it was promptly and obligingly pigeonholed. A little later "Collier's Weekly" got wind of the matter and started an investigation. They sent their representa- tive first to Brandon and then to Washington. He laid the case of the strayed post-office and lost petition before the Fourth Assistant Postmaster, who should have been consulted about any change in the first plac^', but who knew nothing of it. He made a hunt for the side-tracked petition, found it, investigated, and ordered the post-office at Bay Pond to be restored to its original and legitimate location. This was a well-deserved victory for the Brandonites, but it was their only lasting one. The end of their long adventure in 148 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS obstinacy was defeat, and many accepted it before the end. As Lamora's cases dragged slowly on, the first enthusiasm of his friends began to cool to a cash temperature. They gradually accepted what was offered for their places, and moved away, and as they went their houses were torn down. Finally Lamora's stood almost alone. In it the old man con- tinued to live, broken in health but not in spirit, a prisoner of injunctions, trespass signs, and gamekeepers. Iji it he finally died. His foolishness did not descend to his son, how- ever. The latter gladly accepted $1,000 for the house of con- tention, and in 1915 it was the last, lone structure on the battle- field of Brandon. It must not be supposed that the form of enmity that re- sulted in the Santa Clara murder and in threats of similar lawlessness at Brandon, was peculiar to those localities. It simply developed there into acuter virulence and was given wider publicity. It existed more or less wherever similar con- ditions existed, and it began with the establishment of the first private park. It cannot be justified, of course, but it can be explained, and to some extent, excused. The early Adirondacker lived in a wilderness, and was bred to the roving freedom of his en- vironment. To be suddenly and imperatively confronted by vast property restrictions that were not only new to him but seemed both senseless and selfish, was to arouse that feeling of injustice to which the primitive reasoner is always prone. Some natives accepted the new order of things with grumbling resignation; others with guerrilla opposition. Some park- builders, moreover, tempered the assertion of their rights with tact and diplomacy; others asserted them without any attempt at conciliation. Each, it is safe to say, reaped a harvest of personal good will or ill feeling which, in the main, bore distinct traces of what he had sowed. The local antagonism to private parks is dying out with the generation to whom they were a restrictive innovation. The present generation finds them an accomplished fact, and takes them as much for granted as the automobile. Their economic value is also being recognized. They have brought profitable employment to many a man's door, and they have SANTA CLARA AND BRANDON 149 been a potent factor in preserving the forests and the game. The one lingering criticism against them is that they absorb large areas of what was intended for a public playground. This cannot be denied; but after all the public still has left some two million acres where it may roam and camp at will and hunt and fish in season. CHAPTER XLII LUMBERING THERE were a few distinctive features of Adirondack lumbering, and the object of this chapter is to point them out and offer a bird's-eye view of the conditions they created. Those wishing for statistics and general information upon every phase of lumbering operations vAW find them in the Annual Report for 1900, of the Forest, Fish, and Game Com- mission. This contains an article by the former Superin- tendent of Forests William F. Fox, entitled: "History of the Lumber Industry in the State of New York. " It is a very comprehensive and therefore lengthy article, covering seventy quarto pages, but it is as readable as it is instructive. It tells everytliing about a tree, from its home in the forest to its distant destiny in a sawmill. There are a number of excellent and enlightening pictures, and a very interesting map of early settlements and sawmills; for the two went hand in hand in pioneer days. The text, the illustrations, and the map cover the entire State, and the Adirondacks are mentioned only in- cidentally. But the generalizations of the article are ap- plicable to any region. Adirondack trees were always cut in the winter. The men went into the woods and built rough log houses, known as "lumber-camps," near the scene of their activities. The ground chosen generally sloped to some lake or river. First of all "skidways" were made, that is, open slides from the high points of the tract to the water's edge. Down these the logs were "skidded." At the bottom they were piled up, measured, and marked. Each firm had its cabalistic sign which, when indented with a marking-hammer on the end of a log, became a legalized trade-mark. When spring came and the ice broke up, the logs were thro'svn into the water, and started on the journey to some distant mill. The chopper's task was done, and the log- 150 LUMBEEING 151 driver's began. The latter calling was one of great hard- ship and danger. It meant constant exposure, not only to wind and weather, but to ice-cold water. It offered great op- portunities for skill and daring, and many of its devotees, of course, became famous for both. Virtually all of them could stand upright on a floating log, balancing themselves with their long pike-poles. Some of them could dance on one, making it revolve with their feet. A few — the very top- notchers — have been known to turn a somersault on a very broad log. The French Canadians as a rule made the best log-drivers and became the most cunning at the tricks of their trade. They seemed naturally endowed with the agility, recklessness, and immunity to exposure that must combine to make the expert. They have always predominated as a race in the lumbering operations in these woods. There were two distinct phases of Adirondack log-driving — the passage of lakes as well as rivers. And the lakes, be- cause they have no current, were the more difficult proposi- tion. The logs were either rafted together or enclosed loosely in connected encircling logs called a **boom.'' This mass was then '^warped" forward by means of an anchor, a long heavy cable, and an upright windlass, placed on a platform at the front of the raft or boom. Progress by this method was called ^'kedging." It was at best very slow and arduous, and depended largely on favorable winds or no winds at all. To secure the latter condition the night was frequently chosen for kedging. Even so, a strong adverse wind the next day might undo a whole night's work and drive the boom back to its starting point. This made a lake more dreaded than a river, although the latter was not all plain sailing. The logs had to be kept from lagging on the banks, and where there were rapids with projecting rocks, if one or two logs got caught, a thousand would quickly pile up behind them, and a blockade, known as a '* log-jam," result. To loosen a jam of any size was the most difficult and dangerous work log-drivers had to per- form. And when their labor was done they had loosened the avalanche. 152 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS Volunteers were always called for the work of breaking a jam, for the hazard was usually one of life and death — the loosening of some central key log that held back an im- pounded mass of hundreds, perhaps thousands. But some one was always ready to lose his life or gain the applause of his comrades and boss. Success brought no other reward than fame. Log-driving and marking may be said to have originated in the Adirondacks. The rafting of logs and floating them down broad rivers was an ancient custom, but the idea of sending detached logs down narrow, rock-riven streams, was first tried in 1813 on the Schroon River branch of the Upper Hudson. It originated with Norman and Alanson Fox, who were lumbering the Brant Lake Tract, which is west of Schroon Lake and partly within the **blue line." As a neces- sary corollary log-driving sprang into existence at the same time. No sooner had this new method been successfully tried than it came into general vogue. Above all it made possible and lucrative the later lumbering of the interior sections of the Adirondacks. The use of rivers for log-driving caused damage and an- noyance to shore-owners, and led to early legislation declaring certain rivers *' public highways," and imposing certain re- strictions, never very burdensome, on the lumbermen who used them. The first river in the State to be declared a high- way was the Salmon River, below Malone, in 1806; and the Raquette River, from its mouth to the first falls, in 1810. These first acts licensed boats and rafts only, but were gradu- ally amended so as to cover the newer form of log-driving. It was not till 1846, however, that the Raquette and Saranac rivers were declared public highways throughout their entire length. The date may be taken to mark the beginning of lum- bering on a big scale in the interior of the mountains. A peculiarity of Adirondack lumbering is the fact that logs were always cut thirteen feet long, although the reason for the choice of this odd length remains a mystery. Else- where logs have always been cut into lengths of sixteen feet, or some other even number. Another local divergence from general methods was the LUMBERING 153 buying and selling of logs by count instead of by computed contents. The standard of count in the Adirondacks was a log thirteen feet long and nineteen inches ^ in diameter at the top. This was the unit of measurement, and was called a ** standard" or *' market." A lumberman would speak of letting a job for ** fifty thousand markets." As five markets were considered equal to one thousand feet, the job would be for ten million feet of lumber. This manner of selling logs by count, using some fixed size as a standard unit, was orig- inated by Norman Fox of Warren County, who, with his brother had inaugurated the driving of detached logs. Out- side of the Adirondack region logs were sold according to the log rule of either Doyle or Scribner. These two men com- puted the contents of a log in board measure. Their tables varied in method and result, but one or the other was in general use. Having outlined the few distinctive features of Adiron- dack lumbering, we turn to a survey of its activities. They began on the borderland in 1813, but they did not penetrate to the heart of the wilderness till much later — about 1850. The march of the lumbermen was like that of an invading army — they attacked and destroyed the outposts first, and only gradually slashed their way to the inner citadel. They did damage, because they lumbered carelessly, with no con- cern for the future. Their worst sin was the fire menace that they left behind, and which caused incalculable destruc- tion. Their damage to the superficial appearance of the woods, however, was negligible. Only the largest conifers were felled in the early days. All other trees were left stand- ing. As a consequence, the spring foliage would often com- pletely camouflage the traces of a winter's cut. Attention has been called to this point in the chapter on Adirondack Murray, who, because he saw no obvious trail of the lumber- man's ax, was led into a gross misstatement concerning it. This chapter is concerning itself solely with the physical aspects of lumbering. The moral side belongs more essen- tially to the following chapter, and there the destructive fires 1 On the Saranac River a 22-inch diameter was used and called the "Saranac Standard." 154 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS for which the lumbermen had long been strewing the tinder, and the story of their actual stealings and attempted grabs will be duly recorded. Their sins were many, but one thing often laid at their door they did not do, as Mr. Fox very properly points out in his article. They did not build the dams that killed so much standing timber along the rivers. They ulti- mately built a great number of '* splash" or ''flooding" dams to help carry their logs over narrow rocky places, but the gates w^ere soon reopened and the flood subsided. As Mr. Fox says: There was no backflow during the period of vegetation ; and the tem- porary flooding of the roots of trees does not kill the timber. Trees are killed by water only where it is allowed to cover the ground for two or more successive summers. ... In nearly every instance the dead timber in the flowed lands of the Adirondacks is the result of some dam or reservoir which was built in the interest of State canals, local steamboat lines, or manufactories on the lower waters. The lum- bermen had little or nothing to do with them. Every lake or stream of any size in the Adirondacks has probably played some part in the story of lumbering, but the big operations were quite naturally around the longest rivers — the Hudson, the Raquette, and the Saranac. The first distinctive Adirondack lumbering began along the Upper Hudson and its tributaries in 1813. For seventy-five years thereafter the forests around the eastern "blue line" were gradually transferred to the vampire sawmills at Glens Falls, Sandy Hill, and Fort Edwards. In 1810 lumbering began on the lower Raquette, but did not extend back into the mountains till about 1850. A law re- quiring all log marks in use on the Raquette River to be re- corded was passed in 1851. Between that time and 1900 there was a total of one hundred and two different marks reg- istered. This w411 give some idea of what was happening to the People's Park for forty years. The interior operations along the Raquette gradually centered around the village of Tupper Lake and Piercefield Falls, where large mills were built that are still active to-day. Tupper Lake has grown to be a commercial village of considerable size and importance. LUMBERING 155 and is the only incorporated one in the Adirondacks depend- ing for its support solely on lumbering and manufacturing interests. Tne other great highway for the lumbermen was the Saranac Valley, from its source in the Saranac Lakes to its mouth at Plattsburg. Here again the penetration to the heart of the mountains was very gradual. The first little English sawmill was built at the mouth of the Saranac River by Jacob Ferris in 1787. It was later bought by the Platts, after whom Platts- burg was named. It was several years later before lumbering operations began to move up the river, and not till sixty years later that they reached its head. It was not till 1846 that the river was declared a public highway. In 1847 Orson Richards, a lumberman, purchased Township 24, which surrounds Lower Saranac Lake. Mr. Almon Thomas, who later became a very well-known and suc- cessful operator, had charge of the first drive from this lake to the mouth of the river. It consisted of fifty thousand ''markets," or ten million feet of lumber. This may be said to have opened the era of big lumbering in the heart of the Adirondacks, and it continued for forty years. A little later a big Boston concern bought Township 20, which encircles the northern half of Upper Saranac Lake. At the head of the lake, where Saranac Inn now stands, they built a large mill and established an extensive lumbering- headquarters. This was known everywhere as the Maine Mill, and the owners called themselves the Maine Company. In 1864 Township 21 was also purchased for lumbering- purposes, so that the entire region of the Saranac Lakes was for a time at the mercy of the woodman's ax. No attempt vAW be made to record the names of the hun- dred and more concerns that did business along the Raquette River. But few survive to-day, and the best known of these are probably the Sherman Lumber Company and the Santa Clara Lumber Company. Fewer firms operated along the Saranac Valley and the best known were: The Maine Company, H. & 0. A. Tefft, J. H. & E. C. Baker, Thomas & Hammond, Loren Ellis, and Christopher F. Norton. 156 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS The latter was called the King of Adirondack lumbermen, and he justified the title. He reigned supreme between 1860 and 1880. At one time he owned or controlled every impor- tant mill along the Saranac River, and dominated the lumber industry of the entire valley. His rise was meteoric, and so was his decline. He was born in Fredonia, N. Y., in 1821. He went into the lumber business in Erie, Pa. About 1850 he moved to Platts- burg, and began the operations that were to make him famous — and then ruin him. He died a poor man in 1890. He was a man of commanding physique and appearance, of great executive ability and tireless energy. He is said to have had a marvelous memory for details and a wonderful gift for handling men. He was all in all a big man, but got entangled in too vast a dream. He was noticeable among his confreres for the neatness of his clothes and the care of his person. As one who knew him has said : he was always as well dressed as his lumber. Both stood very high in popular es- teem. This chapter has been written in the past tense because the tilings of which it treats are either passed or rapidly passing. The log drive has almost entirely disappeared from most streams, and evidences of the old lumbering linger now only around such a place as Tupper Lake. The available areas have been enormously lessened by exhaustion and State control, and in what is left new methods have replaced the old. Log railways, logging cars, and steam log-loaders, have gradually taken the place of water transportation. The rail- way can be worked every month in the year, and so brings a steady and constant supply to the mill, which, in consequence, never need be idle. The streams, on the other hand, could be worked only in the spring, and brought their supply all at once, or, in case of a bad log-jam, not till after a long delay. Log railways are temporary structures built from the cen- ter of some lumbering-tract to some point of contact with a permanent trunk-line. The result is that whereas the traveler by water formerly met all the evidences of lumbering, the traveler by rail is more likely to see them to-day. LUMBERING I57 But if the new methods and improved appliances for hand- ling logs have brought advantages to the lumberman, they have brought decided disadvantages to the forest. In the old days the hardwoods— birch, maple, beech, ash, and cherry —were not cut, because they were too heavy to float. Only the conifers were taken — spruce, pine and hemlock. The log railway has made the hardwoods available, however, so that what was once a mere thinning process threatens to become one of complete denudation. Another great detriment to the forests has been the com- paratively recent but very rapid growth of the pulp-wood in- dustry. Ground pulp, by a primitive method, was first made in Stockbridge, Mass., in 1867. Soon after, chemical mills were established which reduced the fiber by the action of acids under pressure. By 1900 there were over one hundred such mills in New York State alone. The effect on lumbering soon became noticeable. With the sawmill in view only the full-grow^n trees were cut, but Avith the pulp-mill in view, large and small, young and old went down before the ax. At first only poplar were taken, which, being good for noth- ing else, gave no cause for alarm. But it Avas soon discovered that excellent fiber could be made from spruce, and later from hemlock, pine, and balsam. Spruce to-day is considered so much more valuable for pulp-wood than for building purposes that it is rapidly disappearing from the lumber market. Pulp-wood is cut into four-foot lengths, and, consisting largely of slender sticks, is easily carried by water. Where there is a long dry haul the pulp-men, instead of using a log railway, often build water slides. These are long wooden troughs into which a stream of water is turned, and on wiiich the pulp-wood is floated to its destination. The Rogers Pulp Co., of Ausable Forks, had such a slide that was eight miles long. It carried their pulp stock to the Ausable River, which in turn carried it to the mills. The old lumbering — of the conifers alone — had a certain romantic grandeur about it. It held danger and daring, hard- ship and heroism. It took big men to handle the big trees. The drive was a matter of brains as well as brawn. But the 158 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS new lumbering, the slashing of everything in sight for pulp- wood, makes no appeal to the imagination. It seems like the killing of women and children — a mere ruthless, reckless warfare on the forests. i CHAPTER XLIII THE ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB ALTHOUGH this is the largest proprietary sporting-club in the Adirondacks, if not in the world, occasion to mention it has not arisen in the sequence of events here re- corded. This is due to the fact that it lies in an extreme south- western comer of the woods, and comprises a region so wild and sparsely settled that it lacked the sinews of history until the club itself provided them. The Adirondack League Club was organized on June 21, 1890, by Mills W. Barse, 0. L. Snyder, Robert C. Alexander, M. M. Pomeroy, and Henry C. Squires. Its first Board of Trustees was made up of these gentlemen and the following: A. G. Mills, Warren Higley, A. R. Harper, Warner Miller, Henry E. Howland, Henry Patton, and B. E. Fernow. The objects of the club were and are: (1) The preserva- tion and conservation of the Adirondack forest and the propa- gation and proper protection of fish and game in the Adiron- dack region. (2) The establishment and promotion of an improved system of scientific forestry. (3) The maintenance of an ample preserve for the benefit of its members for the purpose of hunting, fishing, rest, and recreation. On August 20, 1890, the club acquired possession of Town- ships 2, 5, 6, 7 and 8 of the Moose River Tract, lying in Hamilton and Herkimer counties, and formerly known as the Anson Blake Tract. This tract contained 104,000 acres, and was purchased by the club for $475,000. It was probably the largest contiguous area of absolutely virgin forest left in the Adirondacks, consisting mainly of birch, maple, and beech. In 1893, by a merger of the Bisby Club ^ into the League iThis little club of twenty-five members was organized on June 1, 187S, and was the first sporting-club in the mountains to own its preserve. The Tahawris Club was organized two years earlier, but held its lands imder lease. (See Chap. XIV, "Adirondack Iron Works.") 159 160 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS Club, the latter acquired the Bisby property, consisting of 329 acres around First Bisby Lake. In 1894 the League Club purchased the Wager Tract of 12,000 acres lying for the most part in Township 1, and containing numerous lakes and streams. Besides the 116,000 acres thus o>^Tied by the club, it con- trolled by lease the exclusive hunting and fishing privileges of 75,000 acres adjoining it on the east. The total preserve, therefore, amounted to nearly 200,000 acres or over 275 square miles, an area eight times as large as Manhattan Island. From the most easterly to the most westerly point in this tract was nearly 40 miles, and from the club-house on Honnedaga Lake to the one on Moose Lake there is an almost straight trail 25 miles in length. The club made its headquarters and erected its main club- house on the largest and most beautiful lake on this immense preserve — Lake Honnedaga. It is six miles long and about one in width, and has an elevation of 2,200 feet, making it higher by some 400 feet than either Raquette or Lake Placid. When it came into possession of the club, it was known as "Jock's Lake." Jonathan Wright was one of the most fa- mous hunters, trappers, and Indian-killers of the early days. He roamed over the Adirondacks, but confined himself more particularly to the southwestern region which lay nearer his home. In some of his wanderings "Jock," as he was famil- iarly called, ran across the unknown lake that was to bear his name. He fished in it and made a catch of such size and beauty that he decided to keep these waters for his own private use as long as possible. It was not a difficult thing to do at that time. He spoke of the lake, and occasionally showed a sample of its wares, but never di\ailged its whereabouts. The result was that it was called "Jock's Lake" both before and after its location became generally known. When it was acquired by the Adirondack League Club they changed the name to "Honnedaga Lake," under the impres- sion that they were restoring to it an aboriginal title of musi- cal sound and appropriate meaning. Honnedaga was thought to mean "clear water," and seemed peculiarly suited to a THE ADIRONDACK LEAGUE CLUB 161 spring-fed lake, with white sandy bottom, whose waters were remarkably clear — so clear, indeed, that the name "Transpar- ent Lake" was sometimes applied to it in speech and on some early maps. The cold-blooded philologists, however, tell us that Honnedaga has nothing to do with transparency. Ac- cording to Beauchamp, it means "hilly places," and is a name "recently applied to Jock's Lake."^ No one was more piqued over Wright's reticence about his private lake than his friend and rival in woodcraft, Nicholas Stoner, the most notorious Indian-killer of his day. Nick resolved, therefore, to discover an unknown lake of his own, and play it off in terms of mystery and speckled trout against his friend's. This was soon done, and "Nick's Lake" (which still bears the name) was the result. The southern end of this lake is in the northern part of the Wager Tract, and is there- fore a part of the Adirondack League Club Preserve. It was in Nick's Lake, it may be remembered, that Otis Arnold drowned himself after killing the guide, James Short.^ Originally there were no dues in the Adirondack League Club. Extra income was earned through lumbering-leases. The club's real estate was capitalized at $500,000 represented by 500 membership shares. These were offered to members at $1,000 originally, but the price has been advanced with the development of the property. Each share entitles the holder to an undivided one five-hundreth interest in the entire property of the club, to the hunting and fishing privileges of the entire tract, and to a club deed for a five-acre plot wherever selected, with 200 feet of water front, for a private cottage or camp site. About eighty of these have been erected on the three larger lakes. In the course of the years the club has sold some of its land, but still owms, 70,000 acres and leases 22,000, so that it still has a playground covering about 144 square miles. Within it are 56 lakes and ponds, 18 miles of river — not counting small streams— and over 100 miles of trails. There are three main club-houses, one each on Little Moose Lake, Bisby Lake, and ^Aboriginal Place yames of New York, p. 92. 2 See Chap. XIII, "John Brown's Tract." 162 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS Honnedaga Lake. It has been found advisable to establish dues and to divide the membership into three classes : Mem- bers (owning shares), associate and junior members (owning no shares). The total membership at present is about 300. CHAPTER XLIV LEGISLATIVE CONTROL IT was not till the year 1872 that the first legislative recog- nition of the possible wisdom of conserving the Adiron- dacks occurred. There was then created a State Park Com- mission to consider their preservation, and a topographical survey of the region was authorized. , Its legislative and administrative history since then has been given the perfunctory record contained in a long series of State reports, covering annual periods since 1872, but not always published annually. The first reports were issued by Verplanck Colvin as State Surveyor. They appeared regularly for the first two years, but after that long lapses occurred between their publication. In 1885 the Forest Pre- serve and a Forest Commission were created, and the latter began issuing annual reports, which have been continued by each succeeding commission up to the present time. These commission reports, it must be remembered, covered the Catskills as well as the Adirondacks, and later the fisheries of the entire State. They were not exclusively Adirondack reports, nor do they tell more than a meager half of the story. The other half this chapter will attempt to supply. For many a glimpse behind the scenes which I am able to give, especially in the important events of 1885 and 1894, I am greatly in- debted to the kindness of Mr. Peter F. Schofield, Mr. Frank S. Gardner, and Mr. William F. McConnell. These gentle- men were leaders in the long forest fight, and have graciously placed at my disposal intimate memories and valuable docu- ments relating to their campaigns. The most compelling comment on the State's administration of the woods is published by the woods themselves. They are sadly eloquent of neglected possibilities and wasted opportuni- ties. What might have been a source of ceaseless income to to the State and unmarred beauty to the people, is neither. 163 164 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS The fault is primarily referable to that public indifference to future considerations which the changing nature of democratic institutions tends to foster by making it so easy for every- body's business to become nobody's. It needed in this in- stance the most strenuous efforts of a few public-spirited or- ganizations and a few unselfish men to arouse any general in- terest in the forests. Even then the awakening was very gradual. One of the first to pave the way for it was Verplanck Colvin, who, as an early explorer and first topographical sur- veyor of the Adirondacks, did much, both by ^vord and deed, to attract public attention to them. VERPLANCK COLVTN This name was so closely linked with the Adirondacks for so many years, and Mr. Colvin was so familiar a figure in them in the early days, that it is a little surprising that he did not earn for himself the title of ''Adirondack Colvin." This hon- ored prefix was occasionally applied to him, but it did not cling to his name as it did to Murray's and Harry Radford's, although his connection with the woods was longer than theirs. From 1865 to 1900 he was constantly surveying them, com- piling reports, and talking about them. He always pointed with pride to the fact that he was the first to advocate publicly their preservation as a State park. He made this suggestion in a speech delivered at Lake Pleasant, Hamilton County, in 1868, in the course of which he urged ''the creation of an Adirondack Park or timber preserve, under charge of a forest warden and deputies. ' ' ^ 1 Mr. Colvin thus quotes from this speech in several private letters which I have seen, and refers to it in some of his reports. The speech does not appear to have been printed, nor can I find any one who even remembers it. Judging by the time and the place, the occasion was impromptu and the audience small. Soon after, however, we have printed evidence of his making the same plea in the same words. Tliis occurs at the close of his paper on the ascent of Mount Seward, which was published in the 24th Annual Report of the New York State Museum of Natural History for the year 1S70. Here, for the first time, so far as I can discover, the suggestion of a State park appears in print. Some may think, however, that it is contained, though less definitely expressed, in an editorial of the Xetc York Times as early as 1S64. The probable genesis of this interesting editorial was discussed in Chap. XXVIII, and the full text of it will be found in Appendix D. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 165 As early as 1865 Mr. Colvin's interest in the Adirondacks led him to prepare for his own use an outline map of the region. He began by copying data from the old colonial grants, and ended by making a private survey of the southern woods in the summer of the same year. The idea of preserving them as a State park took strong possession of him then and there, and he urged it in his talk and in his writings until it became an accomplished fact. He also urged the wisdom of beginning to build an aqueduct from the Adirondacks to New York, foreseeing that the city would some day be compelled to turn to these mountains for its water-supply,^ This far-sighted prophecy was of course laughed at and ignored fifty years ago, but the day of its ful- filment is drawing ever nearer. If the population of the metropolis continues to increase at its present rate, it is easily demonstrable that within twenty years the utmost capacity of the present water-supply will be inadequate to meet the increased consumption. When this happens, the Adirondacks must inevitably be tapped. In 1870 Mr. Colvin made the first ascent and measurement of Mount Seward. He loaned the record of this expedition to the State University which published it as part of its twenty-fourth annual report. In 1872 he was named on the State Park Commission which was appointed to investigate the feasibility of making a great preserve out of the Adiron- dacks. Ex-Governor Horatio Seymour was made president of this commission, and Mr. Colvin secretary. The latter did much of the research work and wrote the report that was finally submitted.^ The result, as far as the Legislature was concerned, was merely to authorize a topographical survey of the region and to appoint Mr. Colvin as superintendent of it. Thus began a service with the State that lasted for twenty- eight years — till 1900. In this time he naturally did an im- mense amount of work, which is summarized in his official re- ports. They were issued intermittently, but cover virtually the whole period. They contain much dry statistical matter, 1 See Topographical Survey of the Adirondack Wilderness, 1S73-1S74, P- 288. 2 For further details see under year 1872. 166 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS of course, but the earlier ones, and especially the first, have the narrative interest and charm of a journal of exploration in some distant land. They corrected many popular misconcep- tions of long standing and revealed some highly interesting discoveries.^ But when the highest mountains had been measured, and the location of lakes and the sources of the larger rivers determined, the glamour of novelty wore off and his reports lost most of their popular appeal. They became the dry records of old lines and new boundaries, in which the State or a few individuals only had interest. The years have shown his work as a whole to be of very uneven scientific value. The resurvey of many of his lines has proved them to be inaccurate. Much of the great mass of material which he collected, owing to the lack of any sys- tematic filing, tabulation, or indexing, was made useless to his successors. His office at Albany, indeed, looked more like the dressing-room of a sporting-club than the repository of valuable records. These, if there at all, were apt to be buried beneath a picturesque profusion of snow-shoes, mocasins, and pack-baskets. This collection of accessories typified in a way Mr. Colvin's love of the woods, which was very genuine. In them he was an indefatigable worker, but, according to guides who served under him, he was neither a good woodsman nor a good man- ager. His field work suffered from lack of ordinary fore- thought for the comfort of his men. Meals were irregular; supplies were uncertain; and the night's encampment often received no attention till darkness enforced it. These things caused quite unnecessary hardships, and made his ser\'ice unpopular. And it was these shortcomings in his woodsman- ship, I fancy, that robbed him of the ''Adirondack" prefix to his name. He was bom in Albany on January 4, 1847. He received his early education at home, from private tutors, but later attended the Albany Academy. After graduation he went into the office of his father, Andrew James Colvin, under whose guidance he read and practised law for a while. But his tastes all leaned to science, and he soon deserted the law for » See Chap. XV, under "Source of the Hudson." LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 167 the study of geology, geodesy, and topography. In 1881 he lectured on these subjects at Hamilton College. In 1882 he was appointed by Governor Cornell a delegate to the first American Forestry Congress. After retiring from the Adirondack Survey he became, in 1902, president of the New York Canadian Pacific Railway Company — an enterprise that never progressed beyond the paper stage. Some old charters had been acquired, and on the strength of these Mr. Colvin and his friends sought per- mission to build a railroad that should traverse the wilderness and compete with the New York Central. Much opposition developed, and attention was called to the fact that the former Superintendent of Surveys was now seeking a privilege for himself which he had always been eager to oppose when it had been a question of granting it to others. For several years spasmodic attempts to secure a charter were made, but none was granted, and the scheme was finally abandoned. After this Mr. Colvin retired from public life and lived in hermit-like seclusion in his home in Albany. With increasing age his mental faculties became impaired, and he was re- moved to the Albany Hospital. He never married. He was a member of a number of outdoor clubs and of several scien- tific organizations. He died in December, 1920. For the purposes of a brief preliminary survey the legis- lative history of the woods may be divided into four fairly distinct periods : 1872-1885 The Colvin surveys were authorized, and the Legislature was prodded into a spasmodic, half-hearted interest in the woods. It appointed investigating committees, and then vir- tually ignored their reports. Finally, however, one was heeded, and in 1885 a Forest Preserve and a Forest Commis- sion were created. 1885-1895 This was a decade of unhampered legislative control — a control that played for the most part into the greedy hands 168 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1885-1895 (continued) of the lumber interests. The net result was to convince all true friends of the forests, and a majority of the voters, that the guarding of the woods could not safely be left to a free- handed Legislature. Its hands were consequently tied by a drastic constitutional amendment that went into effect on January 1, 1895. 1895-1915 These were lean years for the forests. They were years of almost unceasing, though unsuccessful, attacks upon the new amendment. They were years of much lax administration, resulting in enormous lumber thefts and much questionable surrendering of the State's title to its lands; they were, worst of all, years of the most extensive and destructive forest fires. The lesson of all these losses was driven home, however, and the dawn of new era began. 1915-1920 The forest administration under a single-headed commis- sion, and with Mr. George D. Pratt as commissioner, was brought to an ever higher level of combative and constructive efficiency. Lumber-stealing has been virtually stopped. The fire menace has been reduced to a minimum by a well-devel- oped detecting and fighting system. Efforts to circumvent the laws against the flooding of State lands have almost en- tirely ceased, and constitutional provision has been made for the legitimate requirements of water-storage. The cases of unlawful occupancy of State lands have been greatly reduced. The disputed titles to State lands are now defended as they should be. Violations of the game laws are detected by im- proved methods and punished without fear or favor. Last but not least. Commissioner Pratt has inaugurated a publicity and educational campaign through publications and illustrated lectures. This has spread a knowledge of the com- missions 's work and aims, and awakened a sympathy with them that is creating a more general interest in the woods than has ever existed before. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 169 The more important details of all these years are chrono- logically recorded in the pages that follow. Each minor event, as far as possible, is condensed into a single paragraph, and the bigger events only are given broader treatment. This method is pursued in the belief that the chapter will gain in usefulness by being offered as a compilation for easy refer- ence, rather than as a long, unbroken narrative for consecu- tive reading. 1872 First legislative action toward a Park. In tliis year the legislative history of the woods may be said to have begun. On March 15, Thomas G. Alvord introduced in the Assembly an act creating a State Park Commission ''to inquire into the expediency of providing for vesting in the State the title to the timbered regions lying within the conn- ties of Lewis, Essex, Clinton, Franklin, St. Lawrence, Herki- mer, and Hamilton, and converting the same into a public park." First Park Commission, The commissioners named were: Horatio Seymour Patrick H. Agan William B. Taylor George H. Paynor William A. Wheeler Verplanck Colvin Franklin B. Hough. Legislature autJiorizes First Topographical Survet/. The same Legislature authorized Mr. Colvin to make a topographical survey of the Adirondacks. His report was not published till March 10, of the following year, but, like each subsequent report, it will be treated here under the period which it covers and the date which it bears. 170 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1872 {continued) First Report 1872. Colvin's first report, now very rare, is a thin octavo volume, entitled: ''Report on a Topographical Survey of the Adiron- dack Wilderness of New York." This was the first undertak- ing of its kind, for the geological survey of Professor Em- mons and his assistants was, of course, something entirely dif- ferent. The revelation of old errors and new facts made by Mr. Colvin were little short of epoch-making. The most im- portant of them was undoubtedly the discovery of the true pond sources of the Hudson and Ausable rivers, of which details are given in Chapter XV. This First report urges the protection of the forests and the conservation of its waters by the State. 1873 Report by State Park Commission. On May 15th the State Park Commission, as might have been expected from the able men it contained, made an un- usually strong and intelligent report of their findings. They advanced the most cogent reasons for setting the Adirondacks aside as a State park. The Legislature took no action, how- ever. Report for 1873. Colvin's second topographical report was a mere continua- tion and elaboration of the first, making a much thicker vol- ume, packed with statistical matter, and of very little general interest. New York Board of Trade and Transportation organized. In this year the New York Board of Trade and Transporta- tion was organized **to promote the Trade, Commerce and Manufactures of the United States, and especially of the State and City of New York." There would seem to be nothing in this program that would involve the Adirondacks, but, as will appear, this organization became their special guardian at a time when they were sadly in need of one. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 171 1874 First gubernatorial mention. Governor John A. Dix, in his annual message, made the first specific gubernatorial recommendation concerning the Adi- rondacks by calling special attention to the report of the State Park Commission, and urging the Legislature to take some action on its excellent suggestions. Again, however, nothing was done. Delayed report. Colvin's report for this year was not issued till 1879. 1874-1879 Report 1874-79, third to seventh. Between these dates nothing of moment occurred in forest matt3rs. Colvin issued no report till 1879, when one volume appeared, containing condensed reports for the intervening years. They have no general interest. 1879-1882 Second gubernatorial mention. Between 1879 and 1882 occurs another hiatus in reports and incidents. In 1882, however, Governor Cornell reawakened some interest in the Adirondacks by calling attention to them in his annual message, and making an urgent plea that some steps be taken to protect and save them. Delayed report. Colvin did not issue another report till 1884. 1883 Brooks resolution. Erastus Brooks introduced a resolution in the Assembly asking the Committee on Agriculture to report some '* posi- tive legislation for the protection of the forests and trees of the State from destruction." 172 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS 1883 (continued) State lands withdraivn from sale. This Committee made a report and framed a bill, but the Legislature refused to pass it. Finally, however, it was moved to enact a law withdrawing from sale lands belonging to the State '*in the counties of Clinton, Essex, Franklin, Fulton, Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, Saratoga, St. Lawrence, and Warren." ^ Senate committee appointed to investigate. Soon after this withdrawal act had been passed, the Senate appointed a committee to ascertain "what forest lands situ- ated in the said counties and adjacent to the forest lands now owned by the State can be acquired by the State, and at what price." This was the first legislative move toward having the State purchase outright lands with some timber value, in- stead of acquiring through tax sales those having little or none. An appropriation of $10,000 was made, but its expendi- ture was limited to lands in which the State was already a joint owmer, and which were sold under judgment for parti- tion. Chamber of Commerce action. On December 6th the New York Chamber of Commerce took its first formal action in the matter of forest-preserva- tion, and thus became the pioneer civic organization to take up the fight for saving the woods and waters of the State. It appointed a special committee for this purpose, and au- thorized it "to invite the co-operation of other associations and individuals" to secure the necessary legislation for the objects in view. Morris K. Jesup. The chairman of this special Forestry Committe was Mr. Morris K. Jesup, a wealthy banker of New York, and one of its most far-sighted and public-spirited citizens. He was in- 1 The only previous prohibitory act of this kind was passed in 1850, and forbid the State to sell lands on the Raquette River at less than 15 cents per acre! The State bought back some of these same lands at over $7.00 per acre. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 173 1883 (continued) deed one of the first knights errant to lay a lance in rest for the sorrowing cause of forest-preservation. His special in- terest in the Adirondacks was probably a heritage, for he was a direct descendant — a great-grandson — of Ebenezer Jessup, who at one time Avas so largely interested in the Totten and Crossfield Purchase that it was often called by his name, and the Jessup River, flowing into Indian Lake, still bears it.^ Cooperation of civic bodies. The invitation to cooperate sent out by Mr. Jesup's Forest Committee brought the New York Board of Trade and Trans- portation and the Brooklyn Constitution Club into the ranks of the militant forest crusaders. These organizations and the Chamber of Commerce fought the good fight together for a while and did all they could to preserve the forests for the benefit of the people. Mr. Jesup, however, gradually became discouraged over the public apathy and political opposition that met his unselfish efforts at every turn, and he finally withdrew from a contest that seemed so one-sided as to be hopeless. Soon after, the Chamber of Commerce, influenced by the attitude of their leader in the forest fight, also withdrew. New York Board of Trade left alone in the fqht. A little later the Brooklyn Constitution Club ceased to ex- ist, and the New York Board of Trade and Transportation Avas left alone in the field. But fortunately it continued, al- most sirigle-handed for many years, the largely thankless and ever ceaseless struggle to save the woods from the graft of the politician and the greed of the lumberman. It finally se- cured for the forests the most momentous protective measure in their history (see 1S94), but, owing to the fact that there is nothing in the name of the Board of Trade and Transporta- tion to suggest the Adirondacks, and that its interest in them appears foreign to its other activities, the average person is totally unaware of the many vital services the organization has rendered to these wooded re.gions. 1 For further details concerning Ebenezer Jessup, see Chap. TX, "Totten and Crossfield Purchase." Formerly tlie name was spelled with a double "s." 174 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1883 (continued) Adirondack Battle of the Marne. The Board of Trade saw in the watersheds a mighty asset of the Empire State, and it has persistently followed the policy of protecting them, as being essential to the commercial, in- dustrial, and transportation interests of the commonwealth. While it approached the problem as economic rather than sen- timental, there was recruited from its ranks that small band of militant idealists who, in the face of so much supine indif- ference and such active opposition, never swerved from the great object for which they had enlisted. All that has been gained for it is due to the initiative of these few men. They turned the tide of events at the most crucial moment, for it was their lean-locked line that fought and won the Adirondack Battle of the Marne. State Land Survey begun. In June of this year the Legislature authorized Mr. Colvin to locate and survey all the various detached parcels of State land in the Adirondack counties. This was in addition to his w^ork on the Topographical Survey, and the two were carried on simultaneously. He differentiated them by the titles ''Adi- rondack Survey" and ''State Land Survey." 1884 Report to 1884 from 1879. Colvin published a "Report on the Adirondack and State Land Surveys to the Year 1884, with a Description of the Boundaries of the Great Land Patents, etc." This was the first report since 1879, and covers the work of the intervening years, although it is not divided into annual headings. Senate committee report. The Senate committee appointed in 1883 to investigate the acquisition of forest lands made a report in which it found that "the State lands are more valuable than has been su- posed, and that the interest of the whole people require the protection and preservation of these forests." LEGISLATIVE CONTROL I75 1884 (continued) Another committee authorised. The only action taken by the Legislature was to authorize Comptroller Alfred C. Chapin to appoint another committee to outline a policy of State control of the forests. The mem- bers of this committee were not named until the following year. 1885 Forest Preserve and Forest Commission created. This was a red-letter year in Adirondack history. A Forest Preserve and a Forest Commission were created, and the State inaugurated a policy of forest-protection and super- vision. By a narrow margin, however, it missed the honor of being the first to do these things. On March 3d California had created the first State Board of Forestry in the country, and it was May 15th before New York created the second. Sargent Coinmittee appointed. In January, Comptroller Chapin named the following dis- tinguished men on the committee he had been empowered to appoint, and described them in the language bracketed against their names : Prof. Charles S. Sargent of Harvard University. (A trained and eminent specialist.) D. Willis James of New York. (A public-spirited citizen of large business experience, and long interested in this important question.) Hon. William A. Poucher of Oswego. (An able lawyer, frequently elevated by his neighbors to elective office.) Edward M. Sbepard of Brooklyn. (A gentleman whose rare native capacity, strengthened by legal study and practice, gives peculiar value to his unselfish and earnest effort to unravel the complexities of this task.) Report of Sarge^it Committee. This committee made a lengthy report. It discussed the further purchase of forest lands, but came to the rather sur- prising conclusion that a State policy of extended acquisition, although highly desirable, was surrounded with practical dif- ficulties which the committee considered insuperable. It made 176 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1885 {continued) definite recommendations, however, for the management of the lands already owned by the State, under the supervision of a Forest Commission. These suggestions were embodied in a series of three bills which were introduced in the Legisla- ture, but failed to meet with any enthusiasm there. E. P. Martin committees. Meanwhile the New York Board of .Trade and Transporta- tion and the Brooklyn Constitution Club had been working along similar lines through special Forest Committees ap- pointed by each organization. Mr. Edmund Philo Martin, a brother of Homer Martin, the artist, was made chairman of both committees, and Mr. Peter F. Schofield, another enthusi- astic worker for the woods, was made a member of each. Martin Committees' reports. In April these two committees made separate reports, but with certain recommendations common to both, and the draft- ing of them -was largely Mr. Schofield 's work. They differed from the Sargent report in strongly urging the purchase of more forest lands. They were widely distributed and read, and did much to enlighten and align public sentiment in favor of forest-preservation. New hill hy Martin and conference in Jesup's office. In the meantime the three Sargent bills had been side- tracked in the Legislature, and Mr. Martin, eager to revive them, conceived the idea of introducing one new consolidated bill which should combine and condense the best features of the old ones. He found that such a course ^'ould meet with general favor. He therefore set to work on the new measure in the drafting of which he secured the very valuable advice and assistance of Mr. Frank S. Gardner, the active secretary of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation, who was thoroughly familiar with legislative matters at Albany. A\nien the draft of the bill was ready, Mr. Martin arranged to have it submitted to a conference of friendly critics, held in the office of Mr. Morris K. Jesup. The latter had withdrawn LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 177 1885 {continued) from active participation in the forest fight, but was much pleased that Mr. Martin was keeping it up, and was quite willing to help in a general way. The meeting in his office proved very potential, but, as it was informal, no complete record exists of who was there or of the discussion that took place. Among those present were Senator Henry R. Low of Sullivan County, and General James W. Husted, known as ** the Bald Eagle of Westchester." These gentlemen had originally introduced the Sargent bills. Professor Sargent himself was there, and Edward M. Shepard, Mr. Jesup, Mr. Martin, Mr. Schofield, and Mr. Gardner. Result of Conference. Forest preserve defined. The result of the conference was highly satisfactory. Every one present approved of the new measure, and the two members of the Legislature agreed to introduce and push it. This they did, and on May 15th it became Chapter 283 of the Laws of 1885. Its two most important provisions read as follows : Section 7: All the lands now owned or that may hereafter be acquired by the State of New York within the counties of Clinton [excepting the towns of Altona and Dannemora] ^ Essex, Franklin, Fulton, Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, Saratoga, St. Lawrence, Warren, Washington, Greene, Ulster, and Sullivan, shall constitute and be known as the Forest Preserve. Distinctions and additions. These counties lie north and south of the Mohawk Valley. The original act made no distinction between them, but later the State lands in those to the south were called the Catskill Preserve, and in those to the north the Adirondack Preserve. Oneida County was added to the list in 1887, and Delaware in 1888. Section 8 : The lands now or hereafter constituting the forest pre- serve shall be forever kept as wild forest lands. They shall not be 1 The brackets are mine, added for the sake of clearness. 178 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1885 (continued) sold, nor shall they be leased or taken by any corporation, public or private.^ Commissionership offered Mr. Martin. This act authorized the governor to appoint a Forest Com- mission of three members, to serve without salary. He of- fered a cormnissionership to Mr. Martin, who, though greatly pleased by this recognition of his services, felt that his dis- interestedness might be brought into question if he accepted the appointment. He therefore declined it, and the following gentlemen were named : Townsend Cox Sherman W. Knevala Theodore B. Basselin First fire-prevention. This act contained the first provisions for fighting fires and for preventing them. It provided that the Forest Com- mission should have charge of the public interests with refer- ence to forest fires in all parts of the State, with power to appoint fire-wardens in the different towns. Postings. Fire notices and warnings were posted throughout the forest preserve. Plea for money to buy lands. The backers of the Forest Law strongly urged the Legis- lature to appropriate $1,000,000 for the purpose of buying forest lands to protect the wooded reliefs of the State. All that was needed could then have been bought for fifty cents, and even less, per acre. But the request was so unusual, and seemed to many so foolish and exorbitant, that it was met with thinly veiled derision. An appropriation of $15,000 for the expenses of the Forest Conmiission was voted, but that was all. 1 This section became the nucleus of the constitutional amendment of 1894. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL I79 1885 (continued) First report of Forest Commission. 1885. The Forest Commission now began to issue regular annual reports. The first is devoted mainly to fire data gathered from all parts of the preserve. It also contains a list of State lands, and an excellent map in color showing the relative density of the wooded tracts. It also includes a valuable "Bibliography of Forestry; a List of Books and Publications on Forests and Tree Culture." The titles are grouped ac- cording to the libraries that contain them, and ten of the largest in the country are included. Leasing recommended. The leasing of forest lands was first recommended in this report. 1886 Calvin's second Land Survey report. In March of this year Mr. Colvin issued another — the second — of his special reports. It bears the title: "Report on the Progress of the Adirondack State Land Survey to the Year 1886." It is a massive octavo volume of 360 pages, crammed with dry statistical matter. It has little of interest for the general reader, unless it be the opening pages, which explain very clearly and interestingly the infinite detail and difficulty of the labor summarized. Second report of Forest Commission. 1886. The second annual report of the Forest Commission is a thin book of only 160 pages. It was compiled by Abner Leavenworth Train, secretary of the commission, who excuses the meagerness of the volume by explaining the handicaps under which the commission had had to work. No office had been allotted for its use, so that it had no place properly to collect and file statistical matter. What the report lacks in this respect, however, is replaced by some very readable papers of an educational nature, which make the volume more than ordinarily interesting for the casual reader. 180 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1887 Report for 1887. The report for this year is merely a pamphlet of fourteen pages, consisting almost exclusively of recommended changes in the forest laws. Law permitting sale of lands. A law was passed (without the governor's signature) allow- ing the comptroller to sell detached parcels of land outside the preserve in order to buy land within it. This law was re- pealed in 1892. Leasing amendment fails. An amendment to authorize the leasing of State lands was introduced in the Legislature, but failed to pass. 1888 Report for 1888. The report for this year is in a bound volume again, of the usual size, but has no special interest. It embodies the recom- mendations in the pamphlet of 1887, and reprints the ''Biblio- graphy of Forestry" and the "List of State Lands" from the report of 1885. It also contains a special report urging again the leading of State lands. 1889 Report for 1889. The report for this year is a pamphlet again, consisting of only three printed pages. It states that a supplemental re- port will be submitted before the adjournment of the Legis- lature, but if such a report was submitted, it does not appear ever to have been, printed. 1890 Report for 1890. The publication of the report for this year was delayed by the sudden death of its compiler Abner L. Train, secretary of the Forest Commission. Outside of routine matter it contains a compilation of "Recent Legislation pertaining to the Forest LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 181 1890 (continued) Preserve," and '^A Catalogue of Maps, Field-notes, Surveys and Land Papers of Patents, Grants, and Tracts in the Forest Preserve Counties." Special report. It also contains a special report (previously submitted) bearing the caption: "Shall a Park be established in the Adir- ondack Wilderness ? ' ' Governor Hill's special message. This exhaustive and constructive investigation was the out- come of a special message which Governor Hill had sent to the Legislature on January 22d. He had referred to the Adirondacks in his first annual message of 1885, but had not mentioned them in succeeding ones. In the meantime, how- ever, he had been made to feel the strong surge of public senti- ment in favor of an Adirondack park, and his message on the subject was the result of that pressure. It received immedi- ate attention, and was referred by the Senate to the Committee on Finance, who made a report and recommended a concur- rent resolution authorizing the Forest Commission to take the governor's message under consideration and report on the necessary details for establishing the proposed park. The re- sult was the special report mentioned above. It embodied a tentative act which became the basis for the creative one of 1892. Origin of the ''blue line." With the special report there was issued the reproduction of a map which had been prepared by the comptroller's in- vestigating commission of 1884. It was reprinted for the special purpose of showing two diagrams which were added to it — one, in red, showing the limits (excepting outlying de- tached parcels) of the Forest Preserve ; and an inner diagram, in blue, showing the boundaries of the proposed park. This was the origin of the now familiar "blue line," for that color has been used ever since in depicting the limits of the Adiron- dack Park, 182 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1890 (continiLed) First appropriation. The laws of this year authorized the purchase of lands for the proposed park at a rate not to exceed $1.50 per acre, and an appropriation of $25,000 was made for the purpose. This was the first direct appropriation for purchasing lands in the forest preserve.^ Adirondack Park Association. As showing how wide-spread was the agitation for a State park in this year, it is of interest to note that the leading physicians of New York City took the initiative in forming an organization called ^'The Adirondack Park Association.'^ Its object was ''the preservation of the Adirondack forests, and by practical means the establishment of a State forest park therein." The organizers were Drs. Alfred L. Loomis, Martin Burke, George H. Fox, W. M. Polk, and E. C. Janeway. Dr. Loomis, one of the earliest advocates of the Adirondacks as a health resort, was elected president of the association, and Mr. John Claflin, vice-president. Many prominent busi- ness men became members, and the association rendered valu- able aid in bringing about the establishment of an Adirondack park, and securing the passage of forestry laws. 1891 Colvin's third Land Survey report, 1890-1891. Colvin issued another Land Survey report, containing, at the back, a report for the year 1890, and between the two several special articles of interest : "Forests and Forestry" S. Von Dorrien "Iron Deposits of the Adirondacks" Georpe Chahoon "Adirondack Fishes" Fred Mather "Plants of the Summit of Mt. Marcy" Chas. H. Peck "Lepidoptera of the Adirondack Region" J. A. Lintner "Winter Fauna of Mt. Marcy" Verplanck Colvin List of Maps in the Adirondack and State Land Survey Reports from 1872 to 189L 1 The appropriation of $10,000 made in 188.3 was limited to the purchase of lands in which the State was a joint owner, and which were sold under judgment for partition. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 183 1891 (continued) Forest Commission report for 1891. The Forest Commission report for 1891 contains a very- informative and readable article entitled: **The Adirondack Park." It gives a narrative description of the leading places in the mountains, and the different ways of reaching them, and is illustrated with many excellent pictures. It was intended to acquaint the public with some of the manifold beauties of the proposed park. 1892 Report for 1892. The Forest Commission report for this year contains little of general interest. There is a long list of State lands which form the forest preserve, arranged by counties, and the Cata- log of Maps, Field-notes, Surveys, and Land-papers of Pat- ents and Tracts is reprinted from the report for 1891. Adirondack Park created. The ADIRONDACK PARK was crcatcd on May 20th of this year by ''an act to establish the Adirondack park and to authorize the purchase and sale of lands within the counties including the forest preserve." Section 1 of this Act reads as follows : There shall be a state park established within the counties of Hamil- ton, Herkimer, St. Lawrence, Franklin, Essex, and Warren, which shall be known as the Adirondack park, and which shall, subject to the provisions of this act, be forever reserved, maintained and cared for as ground open for the free use of all the people for their health and pleasure, and as forest lands necessary to the preservation of the headwaters of the chief riverj^ of the State, and a future timber supply. Exchange of lands and leading authorized. The act authorized the exchange of lands outside the park for those lying within it. It also pennitted the leasing of camp sites for a term not to exceed five years, and of not more than five acres to one person. 184 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1893 Report for 1893, two volumes. The report for this year is in two volumes, and the first contains much historical matter. There is a lengthy and in- structive article on the ''Tracts and Patents of Northern New York," in which much information concerning those lesser tracts, excluded by their location from this history, will be found. Macomb Patent. There is also a copy of the Macomb Patent, which is a long, tiresomely verbose document, enumerating the details of boundaries and financial stipulations.^ Description of park. The end of the volume contains an interesting description of the whole Adirondacks, under the caption "Forest and Park." This was only another name for the article entitled ''The Adirondack Park" in the 1891 report. The demand for this was so great that it was reprinted with the addition of some new material and many new pictures. Legislative abstract. The second volume of the 1893 report is devoted entirely to an abstract of legislative acts affecting the Adirondacks. Undesirable legislation. On April 7th Governor Flower, despite strenuous protests, signed a bill entitled "An act in relation to the forest preserve and Adirondack park," which became Chapter 332 of the Laws of 1893, a lengthy act containing many radical changes. Some of them were warranted, but some of them were dangerous relaxations from existing safeguards. Power to sell timber. One of the most objectionable of these was the giving of discretionary power to the Forest Commission to sell matured 1 A copy of the Macomb Patent, with field notes of the original survey, will also be found in the Report of the State Engineer and Surveyor of Sept. 30, 1903. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 185 1893 (continued) and standing timber of a certain size. This and other threat- ening features of the measure caused the New York Board of Trade and Transportation and the Brooklyn Constitution Club to lead a publicity campaign against it. They were not able to defeat it, but there is Httle doubt that its becoming a law in the face of their protests helped to solidify pubhc opinion in favor of a constitutional safeguard for the forests. Commission increased to five members. Under this act the Forest Commission was increased from three to five members, appointed by the governor. The old commissioners ceased to hold office, and the following new ones were named: Francis B. Babcock, President, Hornellsville, N. Y. Samuel J. Tilden of New Lebanon, N. Y. Clarkson C. Schuyler of Plattsburg, N. Y. Nathan Straus of New York, N. Y. William R. Weed of Potsdam, N. Y. New definition of Forest Preserve. The definition of the Forest Preserve was slightly changed and made to read as follows : Section 100. The forest preserve shall include the lands now owned or hereafter acquired by the State within the counties of Clinton [ex- cept the towns of Altona and Dannemora],^ Delaware, Essex, Frank- lin, Fulton, Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, Oneida, Saratoga, St. Law- rence, Warren, Washington, Greene, Ulster, and Sullivan, except 1. Lands within the limits of any village or city, and 2. Lands, not wild lands, acquired by the State on foreclosure of mortgage made to the commissioners for loaning certain moneys of the United States usually called the United States deposit fund. New definition of Adirondack Park. The definition of the Adirondack Park was made more pre- cise (see 1892) by naming the Towns to be included in it: Section 120. All lands now owned or hereafter acquired by the 1 The brackets are mine for the sake of clearness, and the counties in italics are new ones. 186 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1893 (continued) State within the county of Hamilton ; the towns of Newcomb, Minerva, Schroon, North Hudson, Keene, North Elba, St. Armand, and Wil- mington in the county of Essex; the towns of narrietstown, Santa Clara, Altamont, Waverly and Brighton, in the county of Franklin; the town of Wilmurt, in the county of Herkimer ; the towns of Hop- kinton, Colton, Clifton, and Fine, in the county of St, Lawrence, and the towns of Johnsburg, Stony Creek, and Thurman, and the islands in Lake George, in the county of Warren, except such lands as may be sold as provided in this article, shall constitute the Adirondack park. Such park shall be forever reserved, maintained and cared for as ground open for the free use of all the people for their health and pleasure, and as forest lands necessary to the preservation of the headwaters of the chief rivers of the State and a future timber supply, and shall remain part of the forest preserve. Opposition justified. Before the year was out there was ample proof that the opposition to the most pernicious feature of this act — Section 103, allo\^dn^ the sale of timber — was fully justified. The fol- lowing quotation ^ summarizes the mischievous situation it created : Under this law of 1893, wood-cutting operations of enormous extent were projected, and contracts were entered into by the Forest Commis- sion itself, which, being made subject to the approval of the Com- missioners of the Land Office, were submitted to the judgment of the State Engineer and Sur\'eyor, who advised against the making of the contracts, whereupon an attempt was made in the Legislature to de- prive the Commissioners of the Land Office of their approving power, and at this point the advocates of forest protection became satisfied that it could no longer be safely left to the Commission and the Legis- lature. 1894 Colvin's fourth Land Survey report. Colvin issued a Land Survey report covering the years 1888, 1889, 1890, 1891, 1892, 1893. This volume contains the same 1 From an Opinion of Hon. Joseph H. Choate, written Dec. 15, 1905, at the request of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks, in the matter of the applications to the River Improvement Commission. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 187 1894 {continued) special articles that were published in the 1890-1891 report, which it also includes. Last report of Forest Commission, 1894. The Forest Commission report contains special articles on forest associations and commissions in other States, and an exhaustive and highly technical treatise on the Adirondack Black Spruce by William F. Fox. It is the last report issued by the Forest Commission, which was legislated out of office the following year. Constitutional amendment. This was the second red-letter year in Adirondack history, for it saw the birth, the adoption, and the ratification of the first Forest Amendment to be written into the State Constitu- tion. It is a story of such interest and importance as to war- rant teUing in detail. THE STORY OF SECTION 7. ARTICLE VII OF THE STATE CONSTITUTION THE value of State lands had been steadily increasing since 1883, when their sale had been prohibited by law. Those who wanted them, however, found an easy way of cir- cumventing the intention of the statute by attacking the valid- ity of the State 's title to lands acquired through tax sales, and thus forcing their relinquishment. The creation of a Forest Commission in 1885 seemed to stimulate this traffic rather than to abate it, as had naturally been expected, and within a decade about 100,000 acres of land were thus lost to the Forest Preserve. During the same period systematic lumber-steal- ing was going on with so little effectual interference from the State authorities as to spread a strong suspicion of their connivance with the wrong-doers. A later investigation and report of these timber thefts showed them to have reached ominous proportions and to have been carried on with the most complacent contempt of the law. The last straw in killing any public confidence that was left 188 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1894 (continued) in the administration of the forests, came in 1893, when, after a legislative investigation, a new Forest Commission of five members was created. Instead of wisely curtailing its powers, however, the new act greatly increased them, and at the same time annulled many of the wise restraints which the law of 1885 had until then imposed. The new Forest Commission was authorized to sell timber of a certain described character standing in any part of the Forest Preserve. This was throw- ing the lid dangerously wide open, just when public senti- ment demanded that it be closed more tightly. Before the bill was signed the Forest Committee of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation and a Special Com- mittee of the Brooklyn Constitution Club made strong appeals to Governor Flower to withhold his signature, but these and other protests proved unavailing. The bill was signed and became a law — and an added incentive to friends of the forests to place them beyond the reach of legislative tampering. Following the governor's disappointing action a disheart- ened meeting of the above-mentioned committees took place, and as it was breaking up, Mr. Frank S. Gardner, secretary of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation, made this remark: '*I am convinced that the forests will never be made safe until they are put into the State Constitution." It was a sigh that proved an inspiration, and became the casual genesis of Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution — mak- ing Mr. Gardner the father of that vastly important amend- ment. His remark was caught up and made at once the subject of serious discussion, with the result that the Board of Trade appointed a Special Committee on Constitutional Amend- ments to act with their Forest Committee in securing consti- tutional protection for the woods. These two committees con- sisted of the following members : SPECIAL FORESTRY COMMITTEE OF THE NEW YORK BOARD OF TRADE AND TRANSPORTATION Edmund Philo Martin, Chairman (Geo. F. Nesbitt & Co.) Joseph J. O'Donohue (City Chamberlain.) LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 189 1894 {continued) Simon Sterne (Attorney and Counselor.) John H. Washburn (Vice-Pres. Home Insurance Co.) William B. Boorum (Boorum &. Pease.) Edwin S. Marston (Sec'y Farmers' Loan and Trust Co.) Peter F. Schofield (Dry Goods Commission.) SPECIAL CO^DIITTEE ON CONSTITUTIONAL AMENDMENTS OF THE NEW YORK BOARD OF TRADE AND TRANSPORTATION Simon Sterne, Chairman (Attorney and Counselor.) William Brookfield (Pres't Bushwick Glass Co.) John W. Vrooman (Life Insurance.) Elias S. A. De Lima (D. A. De Lima & Co.) William H. Arnoux (Arnoux, Rich & Woodford.) Mr. Edmund P. Martin, Mr. Frank S. Gardner, and Mr. Peter F. Schofield, who, as we have seen, were prominently identified with the first forestry laws of 1885, formed a trium- virate of forest crusaders that became known in Albany as **the forestry bigots." But it was the idealistic bigotry of these veterans of an earlier fight that bore the brunt and bur- den of the present one. The plan to have forest-protection written into the funda- mental law of the State was greatly facilitated by the ap- proach of the Constitutional Convention of 1894. It per- mitted the amendment, if adopted, to be presented to the people at the next election, whereas the usual procedure re- quired the approval of two legislatures and the lapse of two years. As the lawmakers at Albany had shown themselves to be under influences frankly hostile to conservative meas- ures, there w^as added reason for seizing the opportunity of- fered by the coming convention. Soon after it met, notices were sent out that no amend- ments received after a certain date would be considered. This caused Mr. Gardner and Mr. Schofield to bestir themselves somewhat hurriedly. They came together at once and com- pleted the draft of their proposed measure. It was then sub- mitted to a joint session of the Board of Trade committees, and by them approved. Besides the proposed amendment there was a memorial in its behalf. The latter, a scholarly 190 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1894 (continued) plea for adoption, was written almost exclusively by Mr. Schofield ; the former by Mr. Gardner. The nucleus of the amendment was based on Section 8 of the Forest Laws of 1885, which read : ' * The lands now or here- after constituting the forest preserve shall be forever kept as wild forest lands. They shall not be sold, nor shall they be leased or taken by any person or corporation, public or pri- vate." The further sections of the proposed amendment, which were somewhat lengthy, prescribed the management of the forests under a single head, and authorized the leasing of camp sites. This document was carried to Albany by William F. McCon- nell. Assistant Secretary of the Board of Trade and Trans- portation, and placed in the hands of Hon. David McClure of New York, a Democratic delegate to the convention, whose strong sympathies with the forest movement were well known. There followed a conference in the Speaker's room, at which some of the leading members were present, including Hon. Elihu Root and Hon. Joseph H. Choate, the president of the convention. At the close of this conference Mr. Choate turned to Mr. McConnell and said: ''You have brought here the most important question before this assembly. In fact, it is the only question that warrants the existence of this convention." This was strong language and high praise, and the impres- sion it created was profound. Especially did it thrill the "forest bigots," who had no foreknowledge of how their pro- posal might be received. As a matter of fact it was cordially welcomed by the entire convention. Even the delegates from the wooded regions of the Adirondacks, whose opposition had been reasonably expected, gave it the most ungrudging sup- port. Colonel McClure introduced the amendment on August 1, 1894, in a stirring speech, at the close of which President Choate congratulated him on having brought forward in so able a manner so momentous a measure. When it first reached the convention the work of that body was well under way and its committees had all been appointed. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 191 1894 (continued) Nor was there any to which it could be properly assigned, for no other forest matter had been offered for consideration. Mr. Choate, therefore, named a special committee to deal with it, and appointed Colonel McClure as chairman. This was both a very unusual and a very gracious thing to do. It was unusual because Colonel McClure was a Democrat, and the convention had a Republican majority to whom, in consequence and by precedent, the chainnanship of all committees should have been given; it was gracious because it ignored political distinctions in order to place this important measure under the most friendly and fitting guardianship. The committee of which Colonel McClure thus enjoyed the unique distinction of being made chairman, was composed of the following members : David McClure, Chairman John G. Mclntyre of St. Lawrence Amos H. Peabody of Columbia Chester B. McLaughlin of Essex Charles S. Mereness of Lewis This committee gave the proposed amendment the most careful, exhaustive, and intelligent consideration. It was in hearty agreement with the fundamental suggestions it con- tained, but thought it would gain both in strength and favor by being more compact. It argued that once the forest lands had been made impregnable to all the disguises of greed, their management might safely be left to the Legislature. Little by little, therefore, they cut off the meat of non-essentials, and finally reported this bare, unbreakable bone of forest protection : The lands of the State, now owned or hereafter acquired, con- stituting the forest preserve as fixed by law, shall be forever kept as wild forest lands. They shall not be leased, sold, or exchanged, or be taken by any corporation, public or private, nor shall the timber thereon be sold or removed. In the discussion which followed it occurred to Judge William P. Goodelle of Syracuse to propose the addition of 192 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1894 {continued) the single word destroyed. This was accepted, and the last clause of the amendment was made to read: "nor shall the timber therein be sold, removed, or destroyed." This eleventh-hour suggestion was nothing short of a God- sent inspiration. All deemed it a wise and strengthening addition, but it is doubtful if any one at the time, even its originator, foresaw the full range of its potentialities. With- out it, despite all the care and thought that had been lavished on the amendment, there would have been no prohibition cover- ing the destruction of trees by flooding, and the loophole thus left for the building of dams would have been most dangerous. But Judge Goodelle detected the tiny hole in the dike just in time, and by putting his finger in it prevented many a disas- trous flood. By seeming to do a very little thing for the woods, he actually did a very big one. On the evening of September 8, 1894, in an eloquent address, Colonel McClure presented the revised amendment to the con- vention in committee of the whole. He finished his speech amid uproarious applause, and the amendment was unani- mously advanced to the order of a third reading. On Sep- tember 13th, it was adopted by the unanimous vote of 122 to 0. It was the only amendment to be so honored,^ not only in the Constitutional Convention of 1894, but in any previous one held in the State. There was a trifling coincidence connected with its adoption that, while of no importance, was yet of sufficient curious human interest to be recorded here. Mr. E. P. Martin, chair- man of the Forest Committee of the Board of Trade, and ardent co-worker with Mr. Gardner and Mr. Schofield for the amendment, was a man of some avowed superstitions. A pet one centered around the number 7, which he held to have bib- lical sanction and great potency in helping to achieve any good result. Ho therefore always invoked its aid in any scheme on which he had set his heart. He had set his heart very par- ticularly on writing the Forest Amendment into the Constitu- tion. So he began his work by heading a committee of seven 1 Out of 400 amendments submitted to the Convention, only 33 were adopted. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 193 1894 (continued) members and calling them together for the first time on the seventh day of the month, and doing many other things in con- junction with his lucky number. When he went to Albany to follow the fate of the amendment there, he insisted on having room No. 7 at the hotel. Imagine his surprise and delight, therefore, when the adopted amendment took its place in the Constitution, by mere&t chance of course, as Section 7 of Article VII. His joy at the coincidence is said to have been seven times seven. The vote at the polls on the amendment was : 410,697 for 327,402 against 83,295 majority This small majority was not an accurate reflection of popu- lar sentiment, but a result of complicated voting. Out of the hundreds of amendments offered to the Constitutional Con- vention thirty-three only were chosen for submission to the people. These were divided into three ballots, one devoted to the canals, one to apportionment, and one to the remaining thirty-one amendments collectively. The Forestry Amend- ment, despite vigorous protests, w^as included in the miscel- lany, and undoubtedly suffered from the inclusion. Much of its company was unpopular with both parties, but especially with the Democrats, who were instructed to vote "No" on all the propositions in the collective ballot, as the surest way of defeating the objectionable ones. In view of this, fhe fact that the Forestry Amendment was carried at all is more sur- prising than the fact that it was carried by so narrow a mar- gin. The experience of the years fully justified this ''Gibraltar of Forestry," as Mr. Schofield has aptly termed it. Its best friends were quite aware, however, that it embodied the wis- dom of necessity, and not of choice. The need of the moment called for forest-salvation pure and simple ; it allowed no play to the desire for scientific development. The forests of the Old World had always been, of course, the ideal for enthusi- 194 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1894 (continued) asts in the New; but these enthusiasts had been forced to realize that the dream of imitation was incompatible with our existing political uncertainties. An apostolic permanency of purpose, backed by trained eflSciency and honest service, make the essentials of ideal forest management. They were once hoped and striven for by our forest crusaders ; they were virtually abandoned as chimerical in 1894. The friends of the forest then found themselves in the plight of the man whose country home is being constantly pillaged despite supposed police protection. He is forced to put iron bars across his doors and windows. They add no beauty to the place, but they keep out the thieves — which happens to be the paramount necessity. To carry the simile a little farther, it may be said that while the bars were being attached to the front of the forest house, an attempt was being made to enter it from the rear. The new amendment went into effect on January 1, 1895. Less than a week before that date three out of the five mem- bers of the Forest Commission met behind closed doors and granted a right of way across lands of the Forest Preserve to the Adirondack Railway Company, controlled by the Dela- ware and Hudson Canal Company. The railroad ^vished to extend its line from North Creek to Long Lake, and five or six miles of the proposed route lay over State lands. It was thought that the State Land Board would have power to make this grant, and an application was laid before it. A hearing was given at which there was more argument in favor of the grant than against it. The main question, however, was whether or not the board had power to act, and on this point the members were divided. Attorney-General Hancock, who sat on the board, rendered an opinion denying its power to act, and called attention to a similar ruling made by the attorney-general in 1891, when the Adirondack and St. Law- rence Railroad had applied for a right of way over State lands. But all further discussion of the matter was brought to a sudden stop by the serving of an injunction on each individual member of the board who was present. This paralyzing action was taken by an outsider Henry W. Boyer, who owned LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 195 1894 {continued) land along the line of the proposed grant. This injunction fell like a bomb into the camp of the grabbers. It was par- ticularly disconcerting because their time for action was get- ting so short. January 1, 1895, was only a few days away, and if they did not secure their grant by that time, the iron gates of the new Forestry Amendment would automatically close upon their opportunity. Of tliis they were well aware. Then was staged one of those high-handed, high-'flavored epi- sodes that give a touch of paprika to political intrigues. It was known that a majority of the Forest Commission was ready to do what the Land Board had just been restr'aiiied from doing. An immediate meeting of the- Forest Commis- sion — the supposed guardians of the forest — was therefore ar- ranged. The moment was propitious for the object in view. President Babcock, of the commission, was out of toAvn, and no effort was made to reach him. Mr. Nathan Straus, another conscientious commissioner who might have made trouble, was in Europe. Mr. McClure and Mr. Martin who, on behalf of the Board of Trade, had been following events in the Land Board, had started for home, thinking all danger of the grant was over. The field was therefore enticingly clear of bother- some meddlers, and full advantage was taken of their absence. The two members of the Forest Commission who were in Albany, Samuel J. Tilden and W. R. Weed, and the vice- president of the railroad company met in a private room of the Delavan House at seven o'clock on the evening of December 27, 1894. Here they waited for the arrival of a third member of the Forest Commission, whose presence was necessary to make a quorum. This gentleman Dr. Clarkson C. Schuyler was at his home in Plattsburg when this sudden meeting was called. In the ordinary course of events he could not have reached Albany that evening. But the ordinary course of events was suspended throughout this affair; the extraor- dinary was substituted. The railroad people were so anxious to have Dr. Schuyler on hand that they placed a special engine and car at his disposal and brought him down to Albany in record-breaking time. No such effort was made, however, to secure Dr. Babcock 's attendance. About 8.30 p. m. Dr. Schuy- 196 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1894 {cojitinued) ler joined his colleagues at the Delavan House, and imme- diately voted with them to grant the Adirondack Railway Com- pany a right of way over virgin State lands. As soon as this star-chamber proceeding became known, it aroused very general indignation. The friends of the for- est, including Dr. Babcock himself, secured an injunction de- claring the action of the Forest Commission null and void. A few days later the constitutional amendment went into effect and put a definite quietus on any similar abuse of the forest stewardship. How galling the new restraint proved to all self-seeking interests is shown by the fact that not a year has passed since it became operative without some attempt being made through the Legislature to modify it. None succeeded till the year 1913. 1895 Legislature prepares new amendment. The Legislature began within ten days to lay the foundation of an attack on the new amendment by passing one intended to modify it. This measure received the necessary approval of the succeeding Legislature, and was submitted to the people in 1896, under which date it will receive more extended notice. Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission created. The Forest Commission was legislated out of office and replaced by the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission — which was simply a merging of these two separate commis- sions into one. There was no obvious gain for the Adiron- dacks in the merger. The new commissioners were: Barnet H. Davis, President Henry H. Lyman Charles H. Babcock William R. Weed Edward Thompson First report with colored plates, 1895. The first report of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commis- sion inaugurated a series (ten volumes, extending to 1909 in- LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 197 1895 (continued) elusive) of very elaborate and expensive reports. They are quarto volumes (8x11), printed on glazed paper, in large type, and containing many full-page illustrations, and very beauti- ful colored plates of fish and game. Of these the preface says: '^When the Commissioners came to determine the scope of this report, it seemed to be best that some of the fishes of the State should be figured, and as figures in black and white appear to lack something, figures of some of the fishes in col- ors were decided upon. These color-drawings have been re- produced so exactly that no colored figures of fishes in exist- ence exceed them for truthfulness or beauty of execution. They are absolutely faithful reproductions, which can be said of no other work of this kind." These claims are fully justified. The demand for the re- ports was wide-spread and far exceeded the supply, which was limited by law. Indi\^duals, scientific bodies, and libraries, both here and abroad, became eager to possess these unusual books, and copies of them are to be found in public and private collections all over the world. The articles they contain, espe- cially those on fish-culture, have great value for the specialist, but those having an exclusive Adirondack interest are few. 1896 Second report; John Brown's Farm, 1896. The second report of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Com- mission contains the usual special articles, mainly on fish and game, with a few on forestry. The colored plates are of fish, birds, oysters, and enemies of the oyster. A special feat- ure of Adirondack interest is a lengthy and well-illustrated article on ' ' The John Brown Farm. ' ' The Legislature passed a law, signed by the governor on March 25, 1896, by which it accepted the deed of gift of the farm from Henry Clews and his wife. The formal acceptance was made the occasion of special exercises at the farm on July 21, 1896, and these are fully reported in the above article, as well as in Chapter XXXI of this work. A peculiar and interesting; situation to which the report calls attention was that created by the occupancy of State lands under lease. 198 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1896 {continued) Problem of leased lands. The law of 1892 authorized the Forest Commission to lease camp sites; the constitutional amendment of 1894 prohibited leasing. In the meantime seventeen leases had been made in the forest preserve, but only eight of them were in the park — four on Raquette Lake, three on the Lower Saranac, and one on Chapel Pond. The others were on Lake George. As these leases could not be renewed at their expiration, a nice legal question arose as to what should be done with the buildings which tenants had erected. The solution later de- cided upon was to tear down all permanent buildings found on State land. Attack on Section 7. This year saw the completion of preparations for the first attack on Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution. With- in ten days after its adoption by the people Senator Malby had introduced an amendment to modify it, which, passed by the Legislature of 1895, was passed again at this session, and was submitted to the people at the November elections. It met, however, with an overwhelming defeat. It read as fol- lows: The lands of the State, now owned or hereafter acquired, consti- tuting the Forest Preserve as now fixed by law, shall be forever kept as wild forest lands. Except as authorized by this section, they shall not be leased, sold, or exchanged, to be taken by any corporation, public or private, nor shall the timber thereon be sold, removed or destroyed. The Legislature may authorize the leasing, for such terms as it may fix by law, of a parcel of not more than five acres of land in the Forest Preserve, to any one person for camp and cottage pur- poses. The Legislature may also authorize the exchange of lands owned by the State situate outside the Forest Preserve, for lands not owned by the State, situate within the Forest Preserve. The Legis- lature may also authorize the sale of lands belonging to the State, situate outside the Forest Preserve, but the money so obtained shall not be used except for the purchase of lands situate within the Forest Preserve, and which, when so purchased, shall become a part of the Forest Preserve. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 199 ISdQ (continued) Big vote against amendment. As to the merits of the suggested changes, it is suflScient to call attention to the fact that they had all been thoroughly discussed in the Constitutional Convention of 1894, and had been unanimously voted down. In view of this, their- revival within the shortest possible time limit was a bit of political effrontery that roused widespread indignation and received a notable rebuke. Nor were matters helped by an open letter signed by Barnet H. Davis, president of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission, and widely circulated. This letter claimed that neither the present commission nor its predeces- sors had anything to do with the passage of the amendment, but strongly urged its adoption. It concluded with these words: ''We believe the amendment a desirable one, and officially recommend its adoption. We ask every citizen to vote on the question aiid vote for it." The advice worked as a boomerang. It drew forth the largest vote ever cast against a constitutional amendment — a defeating majority of 411,000. The official count was less, however, because 22,000 negative ballots were thrown out on account of a technical error in the printing. Thus ignominiously ended the first assault on the ''Gibraltar of Forestry." 1897 Third commission report, 1897. The third report of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Com- mission contains the usual special articles, principally on fish and game. For the Adirondacks there are long statistical tables of wood-consumption and manufacture, also some "For- estry Tracts," by William F. Fox — little educational preach- ments. Forest Preserve Board. Acting on a suggestion in Governor Black's annual message, the Legislature passed a law creating a Forest Preserve Board of three members. To this board was given exclusive power to acquire, by purchase or condemnation, lands or waters 200 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1897 {continued) within the Adirondack Park. An appropriation of $600,000 was made, and the comptroller was authorized to borrow $400,000 more, if necessary, for the same purpose. This board lasted for four years and issued four annual reports. These contain nothing but statistical matter, and have become exceedingly scarce. 1898 Fourth commission report, 1898. The fourth report of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Com- mission contains the usual articles on fish and game, and the following ones of special Adirondack interest : "Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium" E. L. Trudeau, M. D. "Adirondack Forestry Problems" B. E. Fernow "Bibliography of the Adirondacks" Cecelia A. Sherrill This bibliography was the first of its kind, and the only one until the later compilation for this history was undertaken. *' Through the Adirondachs in Eighteen Days." A resolution was passed in the Assembly on March 31st, authorizing the appointment of a committee of nine **to in- vestigate as to what more lands shall be acquired mthin the Forest Preserve in order to protect the water sheds, and for the Agricultural Experimental Station." This committee was appointed in August, and Captain James H. Pierce of Bloomingdale, Essex County, was made chairman. He called the members together at the end of August, and they started from Saratoga for a trip through the Adirondacks. They made a report which was published under date of February 9, 1899 (Assembly Doc. No. 43). Their findings and recom- mendations cover but a few pages, and the bulk of the volume is taken up by an Appendix of 119 pasfos, which is by far the most interesting part of the book. It boars the title ' * Through the Adirondacks in Eighteen Days," and was written by Mar- tin V. B. Ives, one of the committee. It is the story of the trip, interspersed with bits of history and legend, and illus- trated with many excellent and unusual photographs. It is altogether an entertaining contribution to Adirondack lore. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 201 1899 Serioios fires. In this year very extensive and dangerous fires broke out all over the Adirondacks. A drought of unusual length had prepared the way for them. They started in Hamilton County on August 6th, and within a few days others had flared up, almost simultaneously, all over the region. Fortunately they were mostly on cleared and waste lands, the trees of the denser forest being in full leaf and so in a measure protected. But the danger to them was very great, for the multiplicity of the fires made it almost impossible to fight them all at the same time, and showed the existing system to be totally in- adequate. In some localities there were not enough men. In others there was manifest reluctance by Town officials to call out the necessary number on account of the expense in- volved. Many men, moreover, flatly refused to help on ac- count of the slowness of the pay they would receive. The situation was so serious that one of the forest commissioners was obliged to go to Albany and consult with Governor Roose- velt and Comptroller Morgan. They arranged for emergency measures, and the fires were finally extinguished. Surpris- ingly little damage had been done to the heavy timber, but it was a warning of what might happen and of what did happen very soon. Fifth report, 1899. The fifth annual report of the Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission has two special features of Adirondack interest, a detailed report on the fires of this year, and a lengthy illus- trated article on the ''Beginnings of Professonal Forestry in the Adirondacks, " by B. E. Femow, Director of the New York State College of Forestry at Cornell University. Plans for College of Forestry. This contains the full details of the plans for an experiment which was the first of its kind in the Adirondacks — and bids fair to be the last. It was intended as an attempt to emulate the educational methods of European forestry, and as such 202 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1899 {continued) was watched with wide-spread interest and many high hopes. Its questionable progress and rather sudden collapse elicited so much comment and discussion at the time that it became a conspicuous episode in Adirondack history. STORY OF THE CORNECLL COLLEGE OF FORESTRY BY Chapter 122 of the Laws of 1898, the State of New York provided for the creation of a State College of Forestry under the auspices of Cornell University. The act authorized the State to pay for a tract of forest land in the Adirondacks, of which the university should have the title, possession, management, and control for thirty years. At the end of that time the land was to revert to the State. The tract was to be used to ''plant, raise, cut and sell timber at such times, of such species and quantities, and in such man- ner as it may deem best, with a view to obtaining and impart- ing knowledge concerning the scientific management and use of forests, their regulation and administration, the production and harvesting, and reproduction of wood crops and earning a revenue therefrom." Dr. B. E. Femow, a professional forester, was appointed director of the college. He had received his training in the Forest Academy of Prussia, and for six years had been con- nected with forest administration in that country. He came to America in 1876, and had charge of a large timber tract belonging to Cooper, Hewitt & Co. in Pennsylvania. From there, in 1885, he went to Washington as Chief of the Forestry Division of the United States, where he remained until asked to become the head of the new College of Forestry in 1898. The offer was made to him after a careful search for the best fitted man for the position. While in Washington he had be- come secretary of the American Forestry Association, and later became its vice-president. He was the author of ''The History of Forestry in All Countries" and "Economics of Forestry," two standard works that were used as text-books by the Yale Forestr>' School and elsewhere. He was, in short, a thoroughly trained and equipped forester, but he was not, LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 203 1899 {continued) as the event proved, so good a business manager. After leav- ing the Cornell College of Forestry he became Dean of the Faculty of Forestry of Toronto University, Canada. The land finally agreed upon, with the necessary approval of the Forest Preserve Board, was a tract of 30,000 acres in Frankhn County, including a small strip of Township 26, and the entire west half of Township 23, which is divided by Upper Saranac Lake. The approximate center of the prop- erty was at Axton, at the south end of the old Indian Carry, on the Eaquette River. This is an old lumber settlement that owes its name to having been originally called Axe-town. It is about thirteen miles from Tupper Lake village by road. Here the college established its field headquarters, using at first the buildings they found there, and gradually erecting some new ones. This tract was bought from the Santa Clara Lumber Co. for $165,000 and the entire purchase price was paid by the State, out of the moneys appropriated for the acquisition of land in the forest preserve. The original act allowed $10,000 for expenses, and the Legislature appropriated the same sum annually in 1899, 1900,^901, and 1902. These appropriations were used mainly for the salaries of the director and his assistants. An extra appropriation of $30,000 was made in 1899 and again in 1900. These sums were designated as ''working capital for improving, maintaining, and administer- ing" the affairs of the college. The regular annual appropriation of $10,000 was inserted in the Appropriation Bill of 1903, but, owing to the hue and cry which had been raised against the college, it was vetoed by Governor Odell. In consequence of this action, which de- prived the university of State support, it closed its College of Forestry in June, 1903, and dismissed Director Fernow, For nearly a j^ear more, however, it continued to cut wood on the college tract under an appropriation for cleaning up and re- planting. This was necessitated by a contract which the university had entered into, in May, 1900, with the Brookljai Cooperage Company, and by which it was bound to cut and deliver wood 204 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1899 (continued) off the college tract for at least fifteen years. The contract was made with the avowed purpose of clearing the land so that it could be replanted, but both profit and benefit were expected from the expedient. It yielded both — but for the Cooperage Company only. The price at which the university agreed to cut and deliver their wood proved to be less than the dual operation cost them. This robbed them of the funds they expected to use for replanting, and allowed the denudation process to assume a lamentable ascendancy. As part of the contract the Brooklyn Cooperage Company erected a stave-and-heading factorj^ to use the logs, and a wood-alcohol plant to use the cordwood, in the village of Tup- per Lake. It also built a logging railway from the village to the college tract — a distance of about four miles. This alone involved the destruction of all the trees, to a width of twenty-five yards, along the line of the tracks. The relation of this contract to the purposes for which the College of Forestry had been created and financed is so clearly set forth and summarized in the opinion rendered by Justice Chester of the Supreme Court, Albany Special Term, in June, 1910, that I quote in part from that review of the case :^ The contract, which was not in the name of the State, but of the University, was made, as held by the Court of Appeals, under a ''re- stricted agency," and the Cooperate Company knew or were bound to know the restrictions upon the powers of the agent, and that as such restricted agent it could only legally act within the powers granted and in furtherance of the purposes of the act of 1898. That con- ferred no power or authority to the University to incur any obliga- tions of any character in excess of the amount appropriated by the act and outside of such purposes. The University, it is true, under the law had the power to "cut and sell timber at such times, of such species and quantities and in such manner as it may deem best," but such power was required to be exercised "with a view to obtaining and imparting knowledge con- cerning the scientific management and use of forests, their regulation 1 Printed Case on Appeal. In the Supreme Court of the State of New York. Appellate Division. Third Department. People of the State of New York against The Brooklyn Cooperage Co. and Cornell University. The Argus Co., printers. Albany, 1911. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 205 2 1899 {continued) and administration, the production, harvesting and reproduction of wood crops and earning a revenue therefrom," and it was required to conduct such "experiments in forestry as it may deem most advan- tageous to the interests of the State and the advancement of the science of forestry." The prime purpose of the act, and it was so stated in the title, was "to promote education in fo^estrJ^" Everything in the law, and all the powers therein conferred, were aimed to accomplish that purpose. The law confers no power upon the University to bind the State for a period of fifteen years or to bind it to cut and remove one-fifteenth of the wood and timber standing on the college forest in each year during that time, and especially not under a contract which would have the effect, if executed, of completely defeating the purposes of the act. In providing for clearing the entire tract in fifteen years the Uni- versity was deprived to a large extent of the power of experimental forestry, which was one of the purposes of the act. It is evident that one of the purposes of the Legislature in authorizing the sale of timber and wood was to render the College self-supporting by earning a revenue therefrom. Under the contract there could be no net reve- nues, as expenses exceeded the income. The Cooperage Company suffered no loss because of the increased cost of labor and supplies, and received all the benefit of the increased and increasing price of lumber. The cutting and selling under such conditions were not and could not be conducted at a profit, but were conducted at considerable and increasing loss. The contract, therefore, was the means whereby this purpose was completely defeated. . . . About 3,100 acres of the College Forest were cleared of their timber during the comparatively brief time the College was in operation, but only about 440 of these were replanted. At this rate, if the con- tract was to be executed, a very considerable portion of the College Forest would be practically denuded of its trees during the life of the contract for the benefit of a private industry and not for the promo- tion of education in forestry. , . . There is proof in the case that 500 acres were sufficient for conducting experiments on the "clear cut- ting" system of forestry as distinguished from the "selection sys- tem. ' ' The replanting of a cleared forest is a matter of large expense. If the contract was to be complied with the revenue from the sale of logs and wood, after paying the expense involved in cutting and delivering them, would leave an annual deficit, and, of course, nothing to cover the expense of replanting. The contract, therefore, was the means of 206 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1899 {continued) defeating this purpose, which was one of the prime essentials of the entire scheme. It would result in a denuded territory and not a re- forested one. This important work of reforestation could not be per- formed if this contract is to be enforced, unless the State provide large and continuous appropriations, which, as I view the matter, it was under no legal obligations to make. . . . I think the plaintiff (the people) is entitled to judgment declaring the contract to be void, and directing a conveyance to it of the lands in question, with costs against the defendant Cooperage Company. Among the first outsiders to take serious note of what was happening on the college lands were those who had summer camps in the vicinity. In 1901 Mr. Eric P. Swenson, as presi- dent of the Association of Residents on Upper Saranac Lake, made application to the attorney-general *Ho institute pro- ceedings on behalf of the People of the State of New York to have the purchase of 30,000 acres of land in Franklin County by Cornell University declared unconstitutional and void, and to have the title to said land vested in the People of the State of New York, subject to the provisions of Article VII, Section 7 of the Constitution." Owing to the contract suit had to be brought against the Cooperage Company, who demurred on the ground of insuffi- cient cause for action. The demurrer was overruled at Spe- cial Term, and this judgment was affirmed successively by the Appellate Division and the Court of Appeals. A good cause for action having thus at last been established the case came to trial and, in June, 1910, the Supreme Court, Albany Special Term, gave judgment against the Cooperage Company. They then carried the case to the Court of Appeals where, on March 19, 1912, it was again and finally decided against them. Thus, after ten years of litigation, ended a case that in the beginning attracted wide attention and aroused much heated discussion. When trouble began. Director Fernow, who had the shaping of the college policies, not unnaturally became the storm-center of the controversy. He was violently attacked, but also stanchly defended in certain quarters. He pleaded his own cause in speeches, pamphlets, magazines, and open letters to the press, seeking to explain his theories and justify LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 207 1899 (continued) his methods. But he was not able to convince many that his futuristic theories, however sound, were a satisfactory offset to the immediate disadvantages of his application of them. His judgment was seriously impugned, but few if any of his critics imputed to him any dishonesty of purpose. 1900 Report for 1900. The report for this year is particularly full of Adirondack matter. Among the special articles are : "Methods of Estimating and Measuring Standing Timber" A. Kneehtel "A Study in Practical Reforesting" J. Y. McClintock "A Forest Working Plan for Township 40" J ^^'P^ S. Hosmer \ Eugene S. Bruce "History of the Lumber Industry in the State of New York" Wm. F. Fox This last is an exhaustive and scholarly treatise, helpfully illustrated by a number of excellent pictures. I have referred to it more particularly, and quoted from it, in Chapter XLIII. Name of commission changed. Early in this year the name of the commission was changed to the ** Forest, Fish and Game Commission," and a set of revised and improved fopest laws was passed. This was the direct outcome of recommendations made by Governor Roose- velt in his annual message to the Legislature, urging that the State forests be managed with the same degree of efficiency and foresight that was bestowed on those under private con- trol. During his entire administration he omitted no oppor- tunity of furthering this policy, and no other governor gave the welfare of the woods more persistent initiative or enthusi- astic support. Roosevelt cleans house. Soon after taking office Governor Roosevelt had his atten- tion called to the prevailing dissatisfaction with the forest administration. The Forest Commission service had become a haven for political favoritism, and its employees for the 208 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1900 (continued) most part had only that fitness for their jobs which party loyalty conferred. A house-cleaning was needed, and the governor seized the reforming broom with his usual energy and began to ply it with characteristic fearlessness. He met, of course, with stubborn and retarding opposition, but he fin- ally succeeded in reorganizing the personnel of the commis- sion from top to bottom. Wehb suit for State flooding. Growing discontent with the administration of the forests was emphasized by a report of the State comptroller reveal- ing a system of deliberate depredations on State lands, and enormous sums paid by the State for unnecessarily overflow- ing and damaging private property. Dr. W. Seward Webb sued the State for $184,350 for damages caused by a dam on the Beaver River at Stillwater, which had raised the water nine feet. This claim was settled by the State buying from Dr. Webb, in 1895, for $600,000 the damaged and surrounding land to the extent of 75,377 acres. 1901 Report for 1901. The report for this year is particularly rich in varied articles, colored plates, and other illustrations. Two articles of special Adirondack interest are : "Moose" Madison Grant "The Adirondack Black Bear" George Chahoon Commission reduced. Chapter 94 of the Laws of 1901 made several important changes in the forest administration. Following a recom- mendation in Governor Odell's message, the Forest Preserve Board was consolidated with the Forest, Fish, and Game Com- mission, and the latter was reduced from five to three members (one Commissioner and two Deputies) mth the proviso that after January 1, 1903, it should consist of one member only. This single commissioner was to act with two commissioners of the Land Office. All these appointments were to be made LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 209 1901 (continued) by the governor, who was thus virtually placed in control of the forest machinery. Appropriation vetoed. An appropriation of $250,000 was made for the usual pur- chase of lands in the forest preserve, but was vetoed by Gover- nor Odell on the ground that the State's policy in this matter was too indefinite. His excuse seemed scarcely less so, but he maintained his negative attitude and made a distinct break in the long line of governors who had shown friendly concern for the welfare of the forests. Governor Odell was reelected on a platform that included a pledge to resume land purchases, but it was not till 1904 that he signed an appropriation. Even then, with his virtual control of the political end of forest matters, he was able to keep the appropriation from being spent during his term of oflBce. Hounding abolished. The hounding of deer was permanently abolished. It had been suspended for five years by a law of 1896. Moose Bill. Eadford's Moose Bill was passed and signed. 1902 Report for 1902. The report for this year was delayed and was included in the report for 1903. The 1902 section contains nothing but routine matter. First planting. The first planting done by the State was in this year, when 700 acres of State land in Franklin County were planted with stock purchased from the Cornell School of Forestry. Appropriation for nursery. An appropriation of $4,000 was made to establish a forest nursery. 210 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1902 {continued) Elk liberated. Through the generosity of Hon. William C. Whitney twenty- two elk were liberated at Raquette Lake. A. P. A. organized. This year saw the organization of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks, the details of which follow. THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE ADIRONDACKS THE end of 1901 and the beginning of 1902 saw the incep- tion of a movement for an organization devoted ex- clusively to Adirondack interests. It was suggested to the Hon. Warren Higley, president of the Adirondack League Club, that an association of the many clubs and preserve- owners in the region would help to promote the great interest they had in common — the protection and the welfare of the woods in general. He secured from Albany a list of forty- two such organizations, controlling a total area of over 700,000 acres. These were all invited to send representatives to a conference to be held by courtesy of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation in its rooms. Owing to this it has been sometimes assumed that the new association was an offspring of the older one. But such was not the case. The two organizations were not affiliated, excepting in having a common purpose in forest-preservation. For this they fre- quently joined forces at critical moments, but for the most part they worked independently and even differed occasionally as to their forest policies. The preliminary meeting of the new association was held on December 12, 1901. It was largely attended, and among the many distinguished and influential men who came to it were Governor Odoll and Lieutenant-Governor Woodruff, who at the time was president of the Forest, Fish, and Game Com- mission. Both these gentlemen were heartily in favor of the proposed association, and the general sentiment for it was so unanimous that a committee was appointed to select a name LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 211 1902 {continued) and draw up a plan of permanent orgajiization. The meet- ing then adjourned to January 3, 1902. On this date a name, and a constitution and by-laws were submitted and adopted, and the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks came formally into existence. The only important divergence from the original plan was the very wise decision to make the association not one of clubs but one of individuals, so that it would be open to anybody in sympathy with its objects. These were briefly stated to be : " The preser- vation of the Adirondack forests, waters,^ game, and fish, and the maintenance of healthful conditions in the Adirondack region." Thirty trustees were elected, in groups of ten, to serve three years each. On January 28th they held their first executive meeting and proceeded to the election of officers. The name of Judge Higley was suggested for president, but he thought best to decline on account of being the head of the largest club in the Adirondacks. The following ticket was then proposed and elected : President: Henry E. Howland let Vice-President: . . Warren Higley 2d Viee-President: . . James MacNaughton 3d Vice-President: . . William Barbour 4th Vice-President: . William G. Rockefeller 5th Vice-President: . . William C. Whitney Treasurer: Edwin S. Marston Secretary: Henry S. Harper At this meeting it was decided to employ a salaried assist- ant secretary, who should give as much time as was required to the affairs of the association. Dr. Edward Hagaman Hall, Secretary of the American Scenic and Preservation Society, was considered the most desirable choice and was offered the position. He accepted, and began on February 1, 1902, his long service with the association, of which he is now secretary. A Committee on Legislation was appointed and began deal- ing at once with the situation at Albany, where several dan- gerous bills were pending. Later the services of a permanent watcher of legislation at the capitol were secured. The asso- 212 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1902 (contmued) elation immediately went on record as being opposed to any change in Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution, and voted "that this action be communicated to both houses of the Legislature and be expressed as publicly as possible." It also began adding the pressure of its influence to that of the Board of Trade and Transportation in bringing about the resump- tion of land purchases wdthin the Adirondack Park. This policy had been promoted by Governors Flower, Morton, Black, and Roosevelt, but was opposed by Governor Odell. At the first annual meeting of the association, held on April 8, 1902, Harry Radford made the suggestion that if some scientific body would offer a substantial reward for the find- ing of a substitute for wood-pulp, such a discovery would do more than anything else to help save the forests from de- struction. How great the menace from this source was, and still is, may be gathered from the following impressive figures. A certain New York newspaper, credited with a circulation of 800,000 copies, issued an edition consisting of eighty pages. This single edition required the product of 9,779 trees, sixty feet high and ten inches in diameter at breast height, which, if planted forty feet apart, would represent a forest area of 352 acres ! * Radford's suggestion was taken up by the association, which seriously considered offering a reward for a wood-pulp sub- stitute. But, after further discussion, it was deemed best not to do this, but to use the influence of the association for the desired object in other ways, and especially by arousing the interest and securing the cooperation of the Federal Govern- ment. This was successfully done by sending Dr. Hall to "Washington, and the quest thus started, though never re- warded, has never been entirely abandoned. The association was incorporated on June 20, 1902, and by the end of the year it had a total of 1,044 members. The general scope of its activities will appear in the follow- ing pages. It was soon recognized as a potent factor in Adi- rondack affairs, and could point with pride to some of its po- 1 These figures are taken from the sixth annual report of the association. LEGISLATIVE CX)NTROL 213 1902 {continued) litical enemies. Others sought to belittle it as a combination of rich men and large landholders who were primarily seek- ing advantages for themselves and their preserves. This im- pression still obtains to some extent, but nothing could be further from the truth. The members of the association have reaped such personal benefits from it only as must accrue to the individual from any improvement of general conditions. To bettering these it has devoted itself with unselfish persist- ency, and it has never championed any cause but the rights of the people at large, as vested in the lands of the State and the laws of the land. 1903 Report for 1902-3. The report for this year includes the delayed one for 1902, and the plan of delaying and lumping the annual reports was pursued for the next few years, presumably for economical reasons. The volume for 1902-3 contains several beautifully illustrated and very interesting articles of both general and special forest interest : "The Cultivated Forests of Europe" A. Knechtel "Nursery Methods io Europe" Wm. F. Fox "Notes on Adirondack Mammals" Madison Grant "Squirrels and Other Rodents" F. C. Paulmier Nursery established. A forest nursery, covering a little over two acres, was es- tablished -at Saranac Inn station. Forest Commission becomes single-headed. The Forest, Fish, and Game Commission became single- headed, and remained so till 1910. DeWitt C. Middleton of Watertown was appointed commissioner. Board of Trade defeats Lewis Grab Bill. The New York Board of Trade and Transportation, sec- onded by the Association for the Protection of the Adiron- dacks, led a long hard fight that ended in the defeat of what 214 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1903 (continued) was known as the Lewis Water Storage (Grab) Bill, which threatened a dangerous invasion of the woods under the guise of preventing floods and freshets. The hidden menaces in the bill were fully exposed by a pamphlet published by the Committee on Forests of the Board of Trade and Transporta- tion. A. P. A. investigates surrender of State's titles. The Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks be- gan investigating conditions in Township 40, Totten and Crossfield Purchase, with a view to stopping the State from too readily surrendering its title, when challenged, to forest lands. This has ever since been an important phase of the association's activities. FOREST riRES OF 1903 The most wide-spread and disastrous fires since 1880 ^ oc- curred in the spring of this year. They lasted from April 20th to June 8th, when they were extinguished by the rain that ended a six weeks' drought. They burned over 600,000 acres of timber land, cost $175,000 to fight, and did direct and com- putable damage estimated at $3,500,000.2 In April a farmer near Lake Placid lost control of a fallow fire. It smouldered in the duff until June 3d, when it was whipped into a furious surface fire by high winds. It trav- eled eight miles in two hours and a half, jumping over clear- ings and streams, and becoming a ** crown" fire in the heavy timber — that is, burning in the tree-tops, the most inaccessible place. It was this fire that swooped down upon and destroyed Adirondack Lodge, amid the thrilling incidents described in the chapter on that locality. A similar fire in Keene Valley burned from Cascade to near 1 The fires of 1880, according to the U. S. Census, burned over 149,491 acres and did damage estimated at $1,210,785. 2 These figures include private property. They are taken from a pamphlet entitled: Forest Fires in the Adirondacks in 1903, by H. M. Suter, U. S. Depart- ment of Agriculture, Bureau of Forestry, Circular No. 26. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 215 1903 {continued) St. Hubert's Inn, a distance of nine miles. A fire started at Roaring Brook and burned over 17,000 acres. In the Neha- sane Preserve 12,000 acres were burned over, and the camp buildings were saved only by the bringing of fire-engines on the railway from Herkimer and Ilion. Fires took a toll of 10,000 acres in each of the following places— around Catlin Lake, on the A. A. Low Preserve, and on the De Camp Tract. The largest fire of all, however, was on the Rockefeller Pre- serve, where 40,000 acres were devastated. There is little doubt that owing to the bitter local feeling against Mr. Rocke- feller at the time,^ the fires on his property were more numer- ous and serious than they might otherwise have been. Cer- tain it is that he had to bring in train-loads of Italians to fight them, and that the unfamiliarity of the men with that kind of work made their assistance next to useless. These were merely some of the larger fires. Smaller ones flared up by the thousands. The whole woods were ablaze. For six weeks hundreds of men did nothing but fight fire day and night. There was little wind during the first part of the time, and a heavy pall of smoke hung everywhere and seldom lifted. It added immensely to the difficulties, the nervous strain, and the discomfort of the whole situation. In many places it was possible to sleep at night only by lying on the floor or in the bottom of a boat. As it was the breeding and nesting season, both game and birds were destroyed in large quantities, but there was no loss of human life, although there were many narrow and thrilling escapes. The fire-fighting machinery, while still cumbersome and inadequate, worked much more smoothly than in 1899, because nearly every one in 1903 stood to lose something if the fires spread. But despite the unanimous effort resulting from the ubiquitous danger, it was obvious to every one that no hu- man intervention could have saved the woods from complete destruction had the fires and the high winds lasted a few days longer. Nothing but the rains saved the situation. The les- son was carried home to every thoughtful person that no 1 This was due to his trouble with Lamora. See Chap. XLII, under "Brandon." 216 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1903 (continued) purely combative measures could prevent the recurrence of disaster. This could be avoided only by some comprehensive system of prevention and early detection. Such a system was gradually evolved, but not until the need of it was driven home again by the destructive fires of 1908. 1904 No report. For report see 1906. Act defining the "blue liyie.'' On April 13th an amendatory act was passed defining ex- actly the boundaries of the Adirondack Park, and extending them so as to include about 42,000 additional acres. The act of 1892 named the counties, and the act of 1893 the Towns, which were to become part of the park, but the act of 1904 was the first to describe its boundaries. This lengthy description is omitted here, for it is merely a verbal drawing of the ''blue line" as it appears on the most recent maps. New fire legislation. As a result of the fires of 1903 the Association for the Pro- tection of the Adirondacks secured the passage, in May, of some legislation for better fire protection. The new law cre- ated a Chief Fire-warden who had power to appoint other wardens and establish an extensive system of patrol, espe- cially along the railway lines. These were required to keep their right of way in safer condition and to use spark screens on their locomotives. These changes and others were a step in the right direction, but they were not radical enough to stand the test of the adverse fire conditions which recurred in 1908. River Improvement Commission. The River Improvement Commission was created this year, and the Forest, Fish, and Game Commissioner was made a member of it. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 217 1904 (continued) Destruction of buildings on State lands. A law was passed tins year forbidding the erection of any permanent building on State land, and authorizing the de- struction of any previously erected there. The work of demolition began at once wherever the State felt sure of its title to the land. This w^as the long-delayed and drastic so- lution of the problem created by the leasing of State lands prior to the constitutional prohibition of 1894. It worked actual hardship and seeming injustice to those who had built -in good faith, but their number was not large. Attack on Sec. 7, Art VII. The year brought forth the usual concurrent resolution to amend Section 7 of Article VII. This time the amendment was to allow the removal of burned timber from State lands, and the sale of such lands outside the Adirondack Park. The latter proposition had points of merit, but the former had points of danger, and as the two were interlocked, concerted opposition to both was offered. 1905 No report. For annual report see 1906. State takes over nurseries. The State took over the Wawbeek and Axton nurseries of the Cornell School of Forestry. Later these were discon- tinued. Transplants. In Essex and Franklin counties 520,000 transplants were set out on State land. A. P. A. reports to governor on lumber thefts. The Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks fin- ished its investigations of the unlawful removal of timber from State lands, and came to the conclusion that the laxity 218 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1905 (continued) of Commissioner Middleton and of Chief Game-Protector Pond was largely responsible for existing conditions. The association laid its findings before Governor Higgins, who immediately turned them over to Attorney-General Mayer with instructions to investigate thoroughly and report. The result is set forth in the association's fifth annual Report, from which I quote the following: As the official investigation progressed, the facts already gathered by the Association's Assistant Secretary in his personal visit to the woods were more than confirmed. It was found that between 15,000,000 and 16,000.000 board feet of timber had been removed un- lawfully from State land during the preceding year with the knowl- edge of the authorities whose duty it was to prevent it, and that it was done under a well-understood system of friendly cooperation by which the trespassers were permitted to go through a form of confessing judgment and paying for the timber at a rate so low as to make the transaction profitable to the trespassers. Not only was the mandatory legal penalty of $10 per tree not exacted, but the so-called confessions of judgment for the larger trespasses were made before justices of the peace in a manner not allowed by law, and the timber was removed from State land in direct contravention of the constitution and the opinion of the attorney-general given to the Forest, Fish, and Game Commissioner. James S. Whipple succeeds Middleton. -^ On April 28, 1905, Attorney-General Mayer made a report to Gover- nor Higgins, and on May 5, Governor Iliggins appointed James S. "Whipple, formerly Chief Clerk of the Senate, as Commissioner in place of Mr. Middleton, whose term had expired on March 26. Protector Pond refuses fo resign. The removal of Chief Game Protector Pond was not so easily accom- plished, for the reason that he had no definite term of office, and as a Civil War veteran he invoked the protection of the civil service law. As he refused at first to resign, the only alternative was to bring formal charges against him. Pond resigns; J. B. Burnham appointed. On May 11, the Trustees voted to present charges of misconduct against Major Pond. During the next few weeks the Association ac- LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 219 1905 (continued) cumulated further evidence, and formal charges were drafted, taken to Albany and shown informally to Commissioner Whipple, who would be the official to hear Pond in case the charges were pressed. Without formally filing the charges, the knowledge that the Association would press them, if necessary, had the desired effect. Major Pond offered his resignation and it was accepted by Commissioner Whipple, August 2, 1905, to take effect October 1. Commissioner Whipple subsequently appointed Mr. J. B. Bumham as Chief Game Protector. Colonel Fox restored to power. Meanwhile, the forest law was amended by the Legislature so as to restore to the Superintendent of Forests (Col. William F. Fox) his powers as the real superintendent of the forests, which had singularly been transferred to the Chief Game Protector a few years before. General improvement. Since then the Attorney-General has been prosecuting the tres- passers rigorously; the old system of timber piracy appears to be eft'ectively broken up ; a new atmosphere pervades the Forest, Fish, and Game Department ; and the administration of the forests appears to be on a healthier basis than for many years. Petition to dam streams. But no sooner were these things accomplished than others called for attention. Petitions were lodged with the River Improvement Commission (created in 1904) for permission to dam the Raquette, Sacondaga, and Saranac rivers, on the general plea that regulation of these streams was needed as a measure of health-protection. Two hearings on the petition were given before the River Commission in Albany, and the discussion soon centered around the application of the Paul Smith's Electric Light and Power and Railroad Company to build a dam on their property at Franklin Falls, and flood ad- jacent State land. Plea of necessity. Their plea was based on the undeniable fact that the village of Saranac Lake sewered into the Saranac River, and then on the deniable contention that the decaying deposits on the banks of the river at low water constituted a serious menace 220 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1905 {continued) to public health. The altruistic concern of the Paul Smith's Company over the situation was such that it offered to build a dam at its own expense to avert disaster, and then to sell light and power to the communities thus saved from the ravages of pestilence. Opposition by Board of Trade. There was no question, of course, as to their right to build a dam on their own property, but their right to flood State land as a consequence was a very vital question. This right was emphatically denied by the Forestry Committee of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation in an able brief prepared by its secretary, Mr, Gardner, and read by its as- sistant secretary, Mr. McConnell, before the River Improve- ment Commission. The uncompromising stand was taken that the flooding of State lands for any reason would con- stitute a violation of Article VII Section 7 of the Constitu- tion. A. P. A. dissents. The Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks was also represented at this hearing, but it dissented from the unyielding position taken by the Board of Trade. The asso- ciation felt that, as there was virtually no timber of value on the lands in question, their flooding might, in this particular instance, be permitted. They took a different view of the matter later on, however. (See under 1908.) Senator Malby's argument. There was a second hearing before the River Improvement Commission at which Senator Malby, representing the Paul Smith's interests, read a brief in answer to the one which the Board of Trade had submitted. The argument used was that the police power of the State — the right to protect health and life — was supreme and could be applied when ** necessary for the happiness and health of the people, whether or not a constitutional provision seems to intervene.'^ Such necessity was claimed to exist in this case. The commercial side of LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 221 1905 {continued) the petition was admitted, but it was treated as secondary and incidental to the altruistic one. Mr. Choate renders an opinion. After hearing all the arguments for and against the peti- tions, the River Improvement Commission decided to take no immediate action, but its president, Attorney-General Julius M. Mayer, suggested that the constitutional question in- volved be submitted to Hon. Joseph H. Choate for his opinion. This was done, and the commission, the Board of Trade, and the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks agreed to abide by Mr. Choate 's findings. These sustained in every respect the arguments used by the Board of Trade and Trans- portation, and, as a result, the application of the Paul Smith's Company was denied as unconstitutional. In spite of this the Paul Smith's Company proceeded, later on, to build the dams in question. (See under 1908.) 1906 Report for 1904-5-6. The report for this year includes those ior 1904 and 1905, and their routine matter takes up most of the thick volume, so that there are fewer special articles. There is a very in- teresting one, however, on the "History of Adirondack Beaver, ' ' by Harry V. Radford. Trees set out. In Essex and Franklin counties 548,000 trees were set out. Experimental Nursery. An Experimental Nursery Station of four acres was estab- lished at Saranac Inn station, in connection with the United States Forest Service. Appropriation Bill signed. A bill, introduced at the request of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks by Senator J. P. Allds, appro- 222 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIEONDACKS 1906 {continued) priating $400,000 for land purchases was signed by the gov- ernor on May 31st. Merritt-O 'Neil Resolution. The interests that had been defeated the previous year be- fore the River Improvement Commission, now sought the privilege to build dams by securing a constitutional amend- ment. To this end they jammed through the Legislature, in its closing hours and without granting a public hearing that was asked for, a measure known as the "Merritt-O'Neil Reso- lution." 1907 Report deferred. For report see year 1909. Trees planted. In Essex and Franklin counties 150,000 trees were planted. Merritt-O'Neil Resohdion reintroduced. The Merritt-O'Neil Resolution was of course reintroduced in this year's Legislature. A public hearing on its merits was given on March 20th, and on this occasion the defenders of the forest forced the admission from the sponsors of the measure that they were financially interested in its passage. Merritt-O'Neil Resolution defeated. The New York Board of Trade and Transportation joined with the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks in this fight, and they invited other interested organizations to meet with them in a council of war. Over twenty-five rep- resentatives answered the call, and a carefully coordinated plan of opposition was mapped out. It was successful in bringing home to the Legislature the strong public sentiment against the proposed amendment, and that body failed to give it the second approval necessary for its submission to the peo- ple. LEGISLATIVE QONTBOL 223 1907 {continued) The "Fuller Law.'' An important measure, known as the ''Fuller Law," was passed this year. It was drafted by Mr. Frank S. Gardner, Secretary of the New York Board of Trade and Transporta- tion, and received the hearty support of Governor Hughes, who sent an emergency message to the Legislature in its be- half. Under this law the State Water Supply Commission was empowered to make and actually made the most thorough and scientific investigation and report of the water-power re- sources of the State. The original act was supplemented by appropriations during the two succeeding years, and the re- sult furnished a valuable check on those interests who sought control of the water-powers for private advantage. 1908 No report. For report see year 1909. Nursery at Lake Clear. A nursery of six and one half acres was established at Lake Clear. State sells trees at cost. The appropriation bill for this year contained the follow- ing clause: ''For establishing additional nurseries for the propagation of forest trees to be furnished to citizens of the State at cost, etc." This experiment met with marked suc- cess, and 25,000 trees were sold the first year. Worst fires since 1903. The woods this year suffered again from fires almost as wide-spread and destructive as those of 1903. That they were not quite so was due entirely to the absence of high winds, and not to any improvement in fire-fighting conditions. The summer season closed ^vith a long drought, during which the fires started and burned till snow fell in the autumn. They burned over 368,000 acres, as against 464,000 in 1903. 224 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1908 (continued) Campaign for better fire-protection. Realizing that a few more fires of such extent would wipe out the woods completely, the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks began a campaign for better methods of prevention. In this it sought and secured the hearty co- operation of Commissioner Whipple and of Public Service Commissioner Osborne, whose province it was to decide on the responsibility of railroads in starting fires. To this end he made a personal tour of inspection in October, while the forests were still burning, and he declared that he had seen nothing so depressing since his visit to Martinique after the eruption of Mont Pelee. He added, moreover, the pertinent comment that, while the latter disaster was beyond control, the desolation in the Adirondacks was due largely to the stu- pidity of man. Conference on better fire laws. As a result of this inquiry and allied activities a conference was held in Commissioner Whipple's office at Albany, on De- cember 29th, which was attended by about fifty representatives of various Adirondack interests. A special committee was ap- pointed to embody the \dews of the meeting in appropriate legislation, and the following gentlemen were named : Hon. John G. Agar of New York (V-P't A. P. A.), Chairman Hon. v. P. Abbott of Gouvemeur Frank L. Bell of Glen3 Falls James S. Jacobs of Tupper Lake W. Scott Brown of Keene Valley Dr. Edward Hagaman Hall of New York (Sec'y A. P. A.) This committee held many meetings and drafted a number of excellent fire-protection amendments to the Forest, Fish, and Game Law, which were passed by the Legislature the fol- lowing year. Paul Smith's Company foods State lands. The Paul Smith's Electric Light and Power and Railroad Company completed dams for power purposes at Franklin Falls and Union Falls on the Saranac River, and flooded se- LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 225 1908 (continued) veral hundred acres of State land. The Association for the Protection of the Adiroudacks made an immediate investiga- tion and issued the result in an illustrated pamphlet (No. 17, July 15, 1908, 22 pp. ) entitled : ' ' Drowned State Lands on the Saranac River. " Asa result of the disclosures it contained, the State secured a temporary injunction against the Paul Smith's Company, compelling it to draw down the water and restore the river to its normal condition. Suit was also brought to recover damages and make the injunction perma- nent. 1909 Report for 1907-8-9 last of large quarto volumes. The report for this year includes those for 1907 and 1908. It contains no special articles, and is the last of the large and expensive quarto volumes that were issued. The cost of their production had been very considerable, and it was to re- duce it that the expedient of delaying and combining the re- ports was adopted. But this plan had practical drawbacks which were hardly offset by the beauty of the books, and the Legislature refused to supply money for their further pubhca- tion. The complete set of this unique series comprises ten volumes, from 1895 to 1909 inclusive. Large tree sales. Tree sales by the State amounted to 179 separate orders, aggregating a total of 1,005,325 trees. The demand this year far outran the supply. New fire-control system. As a result of the passage by the Legislature of the recom- mendations made by the Agar Committee, the State inaugur- ated for the first time an intelligent, comprehensive, and eflS- cient system of fire control, with emphasis laid — where it al- ways should have been — on prevention and early detection. Observation stations. The great advance in this respect was due to the establish- 226 A HISTOEY OF TPIE ADIRONDACKS 1909 (continued) ment of observation stations on the tops of mountains, con- nected by telephone with the nearest settlement. The watch- ers live in cabins or tents near their stations, and are con- tinuously on duty during the fire season. They have field- glasses and oriented topographic maps of the visible area, which is often 10{),0()0 acres or more. As many as fifteen sta- tions were erected the first year, and by 1918 the number had increased to fifty-two. The earlier ones were crude plat- forms of wood, but all the later ones are substantial steel towers with enclosed shelters at the top. They are, moreover, equipped with such modern and helpful devices as the Os- borne Fire Finder. Other important features of the new law were as follows : New patrol system. The Forest, Fish, and Game Commissioner was given full power to organize a thorough patrol system. The work form- erly done by fire-wardens was given to 68 Regular Patrolmen, paid by the year, and to 109 Special Patrolmen, paid when on duty. Town Supervisors were made members of the patrol force by \drtue of the office. Five Superintendents of Fire and five Inspectors were created, all subject to the direction of the Superintendent of Forests. Railroad regulations. Railroads were required to clear their right of way of in- flammable slash, to maintain a fire patrol along their lines, and to bum oil in their locomotives at stated times during the sum- mer season. Top-lopping law. Lumbermen were required to lop the branches from con- iferous tree-tops left on the ground after lumbering. Governor's prodamiation power. The governor was given pow«r to forbid by proclamation, in times of drought, any person from entering upon lands of the forest preserve. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 227 1909 (continued) Old and' New systems compared. These and many minor salutary provisions constituted a fire-control system which the test of years has shown to be re- markably efficient. It. has consequently been altered but lit- tle, and only where experience has indicated possibilities of improvement. The adequacy of the new system as compared with the utter inadequacy of the old, can best be shown by the following table and chart, comparing years in which the un- favorable weather conditions were very similar, although the drought of 1911 and 1913 was not as protracted as in 1903 and 1908. WORST YEARS UNDER OLD STSTEM UNDER NEW SYSTEM 464,189 acres Loss $846,082 Cost $153,764 346,953 acres Loss $780,164 Cost $178,991 Loss $33,259 Cost $19,714 Loss $48,045 Cost $41,479 50,389 acres 27,757 acres 1903 1908 1911 1913 Recommendation to allow flooding. On February 1st in a report of the State Water Supply Commission the recommendation was made that Section 7 of Article VII be so amended as to allow up to 20,000 acres of State land to be flooded for water-storage purposes. New attack on Section 7, Article VII. On February 17th Hon. G. H. Wood of Jefferson County introduced in the Assembly a concurrent resolution to amend Section 7 of Article VII so as to permit the removal and sale of fallen, dead, and burned timber, and the cutting and sale of matured trees on State lands under the supervision of the Forest, Fish, and Game Commissioner. Despite vigorous outside protest this resolution was passed in the closing days of the session. It was reintroduced in the Legislature of 1911, 228 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1909 (continued) but was defeated largely through the efforte of the Board of Trade aud Transportation. Death of Colonel Fox. The annual report for this year refers to the death of the Superintendent of Forests, Colonel William F. Fox, and gives an interesting sketch of his career. His unusually long and commendable service with the State as guardian of its woods, entitles him to a word of special mention here. WILLIAM F. FOX Colonel Fox died on June 16, 1909, after twenty-four years of continuous service under the varying Forest Commissions — a record equaled by no other Adirondack forest official. He was appointed assistant secretary to the first commission on November 1, 1885. He was later made Assistant Forest Warden, from 1888 to 1891, when, upon the creation of the Adirondack Park, he was made Superintendent of Forests, a position which he held, through many political storms and changes, until his death. , He was born in Ballston Spa, N. Y., on January 11, 1840, and graduated from the Engineering Department of Union College in 1860. He fought \s^th distinction in the Civil War, and later made some notable contributions to its history. His "Chances of Being Hit in Battle" was published in the "'Century Magazine" in 1888, and attracted wide interest as a novel computation of hazards. Ten years later he published "Regimental Losses," which is still considered an authorita- tive work. This was followed by "New York at Gettysburg" (three volumes), "Slocum and His Men," and a Life of Gen- eral Green. Colonel Fox was a member of the Chi Psi fraternity, and at one time its president. He belonged to Dawson Post No. 63 of the Grand Army of the Republic, and was a companion in the Military Order of the Loyal Legion. He was corre- sponding secretary of the Society of the Potomac ; a member of the New York Historical Society, of the American Forestry LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 229 1909 {continued) Association, and of the Society of American Foresters. His family was engaged in the lumber business, and his early commercial training was all in that line. This he supple- mented later by a visit to Germany and a brief study of scien- tific forestry methods there. From 1875 to 1882 he held the position of private forester for the Blossburg Coal, Mining, and Eailroad Company of Blossburg, Pa. In 1885 he entered the employ of New York State. At the time he was one of the few experts in his line, and he kept adding to his knowledge by constant study and re- search, for he was by nature a student and investigator. He was a sincere lover of the woods and an honest servant of the people. He worked for all that was best in forest methods, but had to face the handicaps of public apathy, changing ad- ministrations, and shifting policies. He was from the first an ardent advocate of forest-preserve purchases, and kept urging the State to buy land while the buying was cheap. The beginning of reforestation and the plan of selling trees to private owners — which proved so successful — were of his de- vising. He had keen foresight and sound judgment in forest matters, and his advice, if more frequently followed, would have often saved the State both money and trouble. He was always on the lookout for trained assistants, and employed the first graduate of the first forestry school in this country — Clifford R. Pettis, who ultimately became his successor as Superintendent of Forests. The sketch of Colonel Fox in the Forest Commission report gives an historical review of the Adirondack situation, and then adds: ''This general summary of the development of a forest preserve and a forest policy in this State has been given because a careful examination shows it largely to be the work of Colonel Fox.'* His unbroken association with State forestry from the be- ginning, and his habit of collecting and tabulating statistics, made him a storehouse of valuable information. His knowl- edge, moreover, was not only of trees ; it came to include the topography and history of the lands on which they grew. He made several very useful maps for his department, and the 230 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1909 (continued) excellent monograph on "Land Grants and Patents of North- ern New York," in the Forest Commission report for 1893, was from his pen. He did much of the educational writing for the early reports, and made in his line the most scholarly contributions to the later ones. Chief among these was his ''History of the Lumber Industry in New York," to which ex- haustive compilation I have already called attention in a preceding chapter. His immediate successor in office was Professor Austin Cary of Harvard University, who w^as followed a year later by Mr. C. R. Pettis. 1910 Report for 1910. The sixteenth annual report of the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission was the last one it issued, and was a return to an octavo-sized volume. Outside of routine matter it contains a special report on ''Forest Conditions of Warren County" and a similar one on Oneida County, both accompanied by colored maps. C. R. Pettis appointed Superintendent of Forests. Professor Austin Cary resigned as Superintendent of For- ests, and Mr. C. R. Pettis \vas appointed in his place on June 1st. He had been Assistant Superintendent for several years under Colonel Fox, who had taken him into the service of the State on April 15, 1902. He was graduated with the degree of Forest Engineer from the Cornell College of Forestry in June, 1901, and was immediately offered the position of As- sistant Director of Grounds at Chautauqua, N. Y. In the meantime Colonel Fox was looking for a forester, and Pro- fessor B. E. Femow recommended Mr. Pettis. His first work was to establish the forest plantations at Lake Clear Junc- tion. The following year he established the first State Nur- sery at Saranac Inn, and there developed a system of nursery practice which has been adopted by the United States Forest Service and is now taught in all forestry schools. His work LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 231 1910 (continued) as superintendent has been notably progressive and efficient, and he has proved a worthy successor to Colonel Fox, whom he bids fair to rival even in length of service. An important event of this year was the resignation of Commissioner Whipple, under circumstances calling for a brief review. Hughes investigation. Early in the legislative session of 1910 Senator Conger made charges of bribery against Senator AUds, who had been connected with former purchases of land by the State. This led Governor Hughes to make an investigation. On February 16th he appointed Mr. Roger P. Clark and Mr. H. Leroy Austin special commissioners to investigate the management and affairs of the Forest Purchasing Board and the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission. The investigation went back over a period of about fifteen years. Commissioner Whipple. The Forest, Fish, and Game Commissioner at the time of the investigation was James S. Whipple of Salamanca, who had held office since May 5. 1905. His predecessor was De Witt C. Middleton. who had resigned after the disclosures of lumber-thieving under his administration. Result of investigation. On October 1, 1910, the investigators handed Governor Hughes their report, covering 425 typewritten pages. Two thirds of the report was devoted to transactions of the Forest Purchasing Board, and it was sho^vn that land originally of- fered to the State for $1.50 an acre had been bought later for $6.50, and many similar instances were cited. Commissioner Whipple was a member of this board. Whipple criticized. As to the department under his special care, it received both commendation and censure. He was criticized for a lack of system that resulted in extravagance, and for inattention to 232 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1910 (continued) his executive duties that left his subordinates too free a hand. But no charge of dishonesty was made against him or any of the Purchasing Board. Mr. Whipple resigns. Mr. Austin appointed. After reading a copy of the report Commissioner Whipple, in a very dignified letter, offered his resignation. On Octo- ber 4th Governor Hughes appointed Mr. H. Le Roy Austin, one of the investigating committee, to succeed Mr. Whipple. Mr. Austin accepted the position only temporarily, until a fit- ting and permanent appointee could be found. Merritt resolution. A concurrent resolution "relating to the disposition and use of lands in the Forest Preserve" was introduced by As- semblyman Merritt on February 23d. It was a water-stor- age measure designed ultimately to benefit private interests, and therefore met Avith the usual outside opposition. Despite this its politically powerful sponsor was able to force its pas- sage through the Assembly, and at the same time managed to obstruct all other Adirondack legislation. Policy of obstruction. The New York Board of Trade and Transportation and the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks had drafted or concurred in several carefully prepared measures permit- ting reasonable water-storage, necessary roads, leasing of camp sites, removal of dead timber, and the sale of useless lands outside the "blue line." The friends of the forests thought the time had come when concise concessions along these lines might safely be made, but they found their willing- ness to make them obstructed by a political dog-in-the-manager attitude. They were told in effect, if not in words, that no Adirondack measures would be allowed to pass until a gen- tleman who admitted he was financially interested in Adiron- dack water-power, had secured such legislation as he desired for himself and his friends. This policy defeated its own ends, however. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 233 1910 (continued) Oovernor Hughes suggests bond issue. In his message to the Legislature on January 5th Governor Hughes advocated a permanent and progressive policy of extending the Forest Preserve by issuing bonds instead of adhering to the uncertain and inadequate method of appropria- tions. The suggestion, like all that he made, was a most ex- cellent one, but was not allowed to bear fruit till 1916. Governor Hughes, it should be noted, was one of the most unswerving friends of the forests who ever sat in the guber- natorial chair. He admittedly knew little about the intrica- cies of the Adirondack problem when he first took office, but he soon made himself master of the situation. Early in his first term he was asked by the Albany corre- spondents to state his views on forest matters. In answer he showed them a long letter he had received from the New York Board of Trade, making recommendations which, he said, he would use as the basis for his own. This he did, sup- plementing the suggestions of the letter by study and investi- gation, and evolving an enlightened and constructive forest policy which he pursued undeviatingly throughout his two terms of office. He courted the advice of the two civic bodies devoted to Adirondack protection, and did all that a governor could do to improve the forest administration. After announcing his retirement from the governorship to accept a seat in the United States Supreme Court, he spent much time in drafting a model bill for the development of the water-powers of the State. In this work he requested the assistance of Mr. Frank S. Gardner, who made nine trips to Albany and held conferences with the governor which on several occasions lasted for over three hours. The result was a most excellent bill, which received the unanimous approval of the State Water Supply Commission. It was introduced in the Legislature, but was blocked by polit- ical interests, and failed to pass. This was foreseen by the governor. His main object, he said, was to put in form and leave on record a bill that would serve as a model for his suc- cessor and for future consideration. 234 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1910 (continued) This bill is printed in full in the fifth annual report of the State Water Supply Commission for 1910, pp. 117-128. 1911 First report of Conservation Commission. The report for this year is the first report of the Conserva- tion Commission, which replaced the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission. The report is in two volumes, matching in size and appearance the report of 1910. It is devoted entirely to the broadened and subdivided activities of the new Commis- sion. The Adirondacks come mainly under the ''Division of Lands and Forests." The remainder of Volume 1 is devoted to fish and game matters throughout the State. The second volume, the thicker of the two, is given up entirely to the ** Division of Inland Waters," and is full of tables and statis- tical data. Message of Governor Dix. The idea leading to the new Conservation Commission was first suggested in the inaugural message of Governor Dix, in which he said : As to the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission and the State Water Supply Commission, under these heads I wish to call your attention to the very important question of the conservation and proper de- velopment of the natural resources of the State. He then dwells on the interrelation of woods and waters, and concludes: **I recommend to you for these reasons the consolidation of these departments into one body." Conservation Laiv. Proceeding on this suggestion, and carrying the idea of consolidation still further, the Legislature enacted Chapter 647 of the Laws of 1911, known as the Conservation Law, and covering fifty-four pages of the statute book. It went into effect on July 21st, and Governor Dix put his signature to it "as a first and long step toward true conservation." LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 235 1911 (continued) It created a State Conservation Commission of three mem- bers, appointed by the governor, with salaries of $10,000 per annum. The first three were : George E. Van Kennen, Chairman, of Ogdensburg, until Dec. 1, 1916 James VV. Fleming of Troy, until Dec. 1, 1914 John D. Moore of New York, until Dec 1, 1912 To this commission were transferred all the powers of the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission, the Forest Purchasing Board, the State Water Supply Commission, and the Com- missioners of Water Power on the Black River. The activities of the commission were subdivided as fol- lows : Division of Lands and Forests, having charge of the admin- istration of all laws relating to tree-culture and reforestation, and the management of parks, reservations, and lands of the State. Division of Inland Waters, having charge of water- storage, hydraulic development, water-supply, river improvement, ir- rigation, and navigation outside of the canals. Division of Fish and Game, having charge of the protection and propagation of fish and game, including shell-fish. These three Divisions were to be headed by three deputy commissioners appointed by the commission. The further subdivisions of administration will be found on the accom- panying chart prepared by the Conservation Commission. Thomas Mott Osborne appointed commissioner. On January 16th temporary Forest, Fish, and Game Com- missioner Austin was succeeded by Thomas Mott Osborne of Auburn, the well-known philanthropist who served for a while as the Warden of Sing Sing Prison. His appointment raised the highest hopes for the welfare of the Adirondacks. It was understood that he would be intrusted with the drafting of the proposed new Conservation Law, and that he was des- tined for the office of Conservation Commissioner. All these hopes were disappointed, however. An unfortunate disagree- ment with the governor on some questions of forest policy, 236 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIEONDACKS 1911 (continued) and a breakdown in health, caused Mr. Osborne to resign. He was succeeded by James W. Fleming of Troy, who held of- fice till the Forest, Fish, and Game Commission was abolished in July. Forest fires. A repetition of the long droughts of 1903 and 1908 occurred in the spring of this year, and many forest fires were the re- sult. They furnished the first severe test for the new patrol and observation system, and it showed an enormous advance over the old one. The damage and loss compared with former dry years was negligible. (See fire-chart under 1909.) Fires from lightning. A peculiar feature of the fires of this year was the very large number caused by lightning. Those reported as due to this agency in 1908 were nine ; in 1909 only eight ; and in 1910 only eleven ; but in 1911 the total suddenly jumped to sixty-five. 1912 Report for 1912. The second report of the Conservation Commission is one volume. Outside of the routine matter it contains a discus- sion of the '* top-lopping" law, with illustrations. Top-lopping law. The penalty attaching to the law was repealed this year, so that to all intents and purposes it became inoperative. New definition of park. Chapter 444 of the laws of 1912 also amended the definition of the Adirondack Park, making it include all lands within the "blue line," whereas it formerly included State lands only. Paul Smith's Company wins suit. The suit brought in 1908 against the Paul Smithes Electric Light and Power and Railroad Company for flooding State lands by the building of dams at Franklin Falls and Union LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 237 1912 (continued) Falls, was decided in favor of the company. Judge Kellogg, of the Supreme Court at Plattsburg, held that the defendant had a prescriptive right to flood the lands in question, and the attorney-general took no appeal from the decision. 1913 Report for 1913. The third report of the Conservation Commission contains, outside of routine matter, a lengthy and very interesting article on fire-fighting and prevention, with many illustra- tions. Burd Amendment. This year saw the first modification of Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution in the ratification at the polls of what was known as the Burd Amendment, allowing three per cent, of forest-preserve lands to be flooded for water-storage pur- poses. Attacks repulsed for nineteen years. For nineteen years the ''Gibraltar of Forestry," owing to the constant vigilance of its garrison, had successfully thwarted the most insidious and incessant attacks of its ene- mies. What seemed their final victory was in reality but a voluntary concession on the part of the defenders. Had the proposed amendment not received their approval and sup- port, it is safe to say that it would have met the fate of its predecessors. As a matter of fact the Burd Amendment was drafted jointly by the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks and the Board of Trade and Transportation. Review of situation. The warrant for concession lay in changes which the passing years had brought. The first attackers of the constitutional amendment were mainly the lumber interests, but they met with such effective opposition that they finally gave up fight- ing for the unattainable. In the meantime, the lust for water- 238 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1913 (continued) power began to replace the greed for timber. As the genera- tion, and especially the long-distance transmission, of elec- trical energy developed, the water-powers of the Adirondacks, formerly too remote to be of more than local value, became choice plums for a new breed of grabbers. From 1904 to the present time the attempts to break through the barrier of Sec- tion 7 Article VII have been aimed chiefly at the water behind it. But all the bills put forward were sooner or later defeated, and the water-power interests became so discouraged that they were willing to accept any compromise to which their most watchful opponents, the New York Board of Trade and Trans- portation and the Association for the Protection of the Adi- rondacks, would consent. Genesis of Burd Amendment. These organizations, it should be noted, were not blind to the need and benefit of water-storage in general, and had gone on record as being in favor of it in certain cases and under certain restrictions ; but they were unalterably opposed to the unnecessary and indiscriminate flooding of the Adirondack Park for the benefit of private interests. A bill of this nature was being pushed by Assemblyman E. A. Merritt, Jr., and the danger of its passing was so great that the above organ- izations called a public meeting to consider concerted action for its defeat. Invitations were sent out to thirty-seven civic bodies, most of which responded to the call. As a result of this mass meeting and of later conferences held in Albany, the Merritt Amendment was withdrawn and all the interested parties, including Mr. Merritt himself, agreed to accept and support a compromise measure, known as the Burd Amend- ment, which read as follows; italics being used for the new portion of the amendment : BURD AMEND]\IENT The lands of the State now owned or hereafter acquired consti- tutinpr the Forest Preserve as now fixed by law shall be forever kept as wild forest land. They shall not be leased, sold or exchanged, or be taken by any corporation, public or private, nor shall the timber LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 239 1913 {continued) thereon be sold, removed or destroyed. But the Legislature may hy general laws provide for the use of not exceeding three per centum of such lands for the construction and maiyitenance of reservoirs for municipal water supply, for the canals of the State and to regulate the flow of streams. Such reservoirs shall he constructed, owned and con- trolled hy the State, hut such work shall not he undertaken until after the houndaries and high flow lines thereof shall have heen accurately surveyed and fixed, and after puhlic notice, hearing and determination that such lands are required for such public use. The expense of any such improvements shall he apportioned on the puhlic and private property and municipalities henefited to the extent of the henefits received. Any such reservoir shall always be operated hy the State and the Legislature shall provide for a charge upon property and municipalities henefited for a reasonable return to the State upon the value of the rights and property of the State used and the services of the State rendered, which shall he fixed for terms not exceeding ten years and he readjustahle at the end of any term. Unsanitary conditions shall not he created or continued by any such public works. A violation of any of the pfovisions of this section may be restrained at the suit of the people, or, with the consent of the Supreme Court in Appellate Division, on notice to the Attorney -General at the suit of any citizen. This was carried at the polls by a vote of 486,264 in favor; and of only 187,290 against. Smith-Gardner Bill relating to Burd Amendment. In order to take advantage of the new amendment a con- ference was called in the rooms of the Board of Trade and Transportation to consider the framing of a proper law for reservoir-construction and river-regulation. Hon. Edward N. Smith of Watertow^l and Mr. Frank S. Gardner were ap- pointed a committee to draft such a measure. They submit- ted one that met with the approval of the conferees, and which was introduced in the Legislature the following year. It failed to pass, however, because Governor Glynn refused to approve it unless another bill, considered objectionable by the advocates of the former, were passed at the same time. The Smith-Gardner Bill was passed later, however. See un- der 1916. 240 A HISTORY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1913 {continued) Top-lopping penalty restored. Through efforts of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks the penalty for violating the top-lopping law, repealed in 1912, was restored. The association also urged Governor Glynn to recommend a bond issue for forest-pre- serve purchases, but he was disinclined to do so. Death of Henry E. Rowland. The association suffered a severe loss this year in the death of its president Hon. Henry E. Howland, who died on No- vember 10th. He had been the association's only president from its permanent organization in January, 1902, until April, 1912, and was honorary president from then until the time of his death. He was succeeded by Mr. John G. Agar. 1914 Report for 1914, The report for this year is the last bound volume issued by the Conserv^ation Commission. It contains the usual routine matter, but nothing else of special interest. Railroads must continue burning oil. The Adirondack railroads petitioned the Public Service Commission to be relieved from the necessity of using oil for fuel during the fire season. The pros and cons of the question were thoroughly threshed out, and the petition denied. Trespasses at low eb&. Timber-stealing — politely called trespass — reached the lowest figure in the history of the Forest Preserve. The known depredations amounted to less than $200. Pat. McCahe appointed Commissioner. The sensation of the year in forest circles was sprung in December, when Governor Glynn appointed Patrick MoCabe of Albany to succeed James W. Fleming as one of the three Conservation Commissioners. It was a thing to make the LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 241 1914 (continued) judicious weep, and the disparity between the man and the office was in this case so glaring that even the injudicious were incHned to blink. Men high up in the councils of the Demo- cratic party protested against the appointment, but in vain. Mr. McCabe wanted that particular job with its snug salary, and the governor was as clay in the hands of the plotter. The comments which this appointment called forth in the press can be gaged by quoting one of the least severe of them from a paper that shared the politics of the governor. The **New York World" said in part: McCabe is the boss of Albany. He has been one of Murphy's staunches! supporters since the latter assumed the leadership of Tam- many Hall. It was McCabe who took the initiative in bringing about the impeachment of Mr. Sulzer. He is the most practical of prac- tical politicians, a spoilsman and reactionary of the most pronounced type, ready to stand for anything and everything that Murphy de- crees. This indefensible appointment became a direct influence in bringing about changes in the Conservation Law that legis- lated Mr. McCabe out of oflBce the following year. 1915 Report for 1915. The report for this year is a paper-bound pamphlet of only forty-three pages, and contains nothing but routine matter. Governor Whitman recommends changes in Conservation Law. In his inaugural message Governor Whitman urged certain changes in the Conservation Law, the most important of which were summed up as follows: First. A single-headed commission. Second. A strict requirement in the law that the administrative head of each department should be a trained expert. Third, A strict requirement in the law that all of the important subordinates shall be trained experts, appointed in accordance with the provisions of the civil service law. 242 A HISTORY OF THE ADIEONDACKS 1915 (continued) New Laiv, Virtually all of the governor's recommendations had re- ceived the approval of the various organizations interested in the Adirondacks. They were put into a bill which was passed by the Legislature and signed by the governor on April 16th. It became Chapter 318 of the Laws of 1915. Single-headed commission. It provided for a single Conservation Commissioner to be appointed by the governor for a period of six years, at a salary of $8,000 a year. The commissioner had power to ap- point a Deputy Commissioner, also a Superintendent of For- ests, who would become Chief of the Divison of Lands and Forests ; a Chief Game Protector, who would become Chief of the Division of Fish and Game; a Division Engineer, who would become Chief of the Division of Waters, and various other subordinates. George D. Pratt appointed. On April 19th Governor Whitman appointed George D. Pratt of New York Conservation Commissioner. The selec- tion was an excellent one. Mr. Pratt, formerly president of the Camp Fire Club of America, was eminently fitted for the position which, as the possessor of an independent fortune, he accepted solely out of interest for the work it involved. He brought to it, moreover, not only the enthusiasm of the idealist but the practical ability of the experienced executive. This conjunction of advantages has given the woods up to the present time (1920) the most progressive and unpolitical ad- ministration they have ever enjoyed. Educational talks and pictures. Commissioner Pratt was a firm believer in the value of edu- cational propaganda, and inaugurated a series of informa- tive talks given by himself, or members of his staff, on various phases of conservation work. To illustrate these talks he used motion pictures, often taken by himself. One of the LEGISLATIVE CONTEOL 243 1915 {continued) most interesting films rehearsed the drama of a forest fire from start to finish. It showed the carelessly thrown match, the discovery of smoke from the observation station, the locat- ing of the fire, the telephoning, the assembling of the fighters, and then the fighting. This method of popular instruction has been a potent factor in arousing public interest as never before in the commission's activities. Squatter problem solved. Among the notable advances of the Pratt administration has been its handling of the ' * squatter ' ' problem. For years there have been hundreds of cases of illegal occupany of State lands, of which the authorities were fully aware, but the situation has been complicated by title uncertainty, political influence, and purely human sympathy. The result has been a Gordian knot, which no commissioner made any serious attempt to cut until it reached Mr. Pratt. He, however, by using both firmness and tact, succeeded in eliminating some seven hundred cases out of a heritage of over nine hundred. Constitutional Convention. Another Constitutional Convention was held in the summer of this year. Conservation and the modifying of Section 7 Article VII had a large share in its deliberations. No less than forty-five amendments, bearing directly or indirectly on these subjects, were introduced. Finally, after much pro- tracted and often heated debate, a conservation article was agreed upon. Opinions concerning it differed widely. It was strongly opposed by the New York Board of Trade and Trans- portation, but had the hearty support of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks. Public sentiment con- cerning it cannot be accurately gaged for it was not voted upon as a separate proposition, but merely as part of the Ke- vised Constitution as a whole. This was defeated at the November election by 893,635 negative to 388,966 affirmative votes, making a majority against the proposed revision of 504,669. Out of six questions submitted to the electorate at this time, only one, concerning the Barge Canal, was approved. 244 A mSTOEY OF THE ADIKONDACKS 1916 Report for 1916. The report for this year is a paper-bound pamphlet of sixty- seven pages, containing nothing but the usual routine and sta- tistical matter. Bond issue. On May 16th Governor "VMiitman signed a bill providing for a referendum to the people of a proposed bond issue of $10,000,000 for ''the acquisition of lands for State Park pur- poses." The proceeds of $2,500,000 of the bonds were to go to the extension of the Palisades Interstate Park, and the pro- ceeds of the remaining $7,500,000 to the extension of the forest preserve. This was the first money made available for the purpose since the last appropriation in 1909. Governor Hughes had first urged a bond issue in 1910, and the friends of forest-extension had made repeated attempts to secure the necessary legislation, but without success until Governor Whitman came into oflBce. Vote on bond issue. Even when the Legislature had been induced to act, it was found that outside opposition was likely to develop from a misunderstanding of the proposition. In order to put the matter in the proper light an extensive campaign of education was undertaken by the Conservation Commission and inter- ested organizations. The result was most gratifying, for the proposition was approved by the people by a majority of 150,496. Analysis of the vote showed that New York City virtually carried the referendum, and, what is still more sur- prising, that not a single Adirondack county voted in favor of it. Elk liberated. In April of this year a carload of elk was shipped from Yellowstone Park and liberated in the Adirondacks. The ex- pense was borne mainly by the New York State Order of Elks, although the Legislature appropriated $500 for the cost of transportation. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 245 1916 {continued) Wearing of elk teeth condetnned. This was the most receut effort to restore these animals to the North Woods, and those back of the movement, includ- ing the Conservation Commission, believe that if a sufficient number of elk can be imported, their ultimate repatriation is virtually assured. The Order of Elks is so eager to see this brought about that it has condemned the wearing of elk teeth as insignia, and has thus removed one inducement to slaughter the animals. Elk near Long Lake. The elk released by Mr. Whitney some fifteen years before this were thought to have entirely disappeared, but the Con- servation Commission announced the presence in 1915 of a herd seen in the vicinity of Long Lake, which would indicate that the descendants of the earlier importations were not quite extinct. Saratoga Springs placed under Conservation Commission. A bill was passed this year placing Saratoga Springs under the control of the Conservation Commission, as a Fourth Main Division of its activities. Smith-Gardner Bill becomes Machold Law. The Smith-Gardner Bill (see 1913, Burd Amendment), under the name of the Machold Law, was introduced in the Legislature of 1915, and passed. But it had been so amended and emasculated in committee as to be of little value. In spite of this it was considered better than nothing, and Governor Whitman was urged to sign it, which he did. Machold Law amended, hut World War delays operation. In 1916 Mr. Frank S. Gardner drafted a bill making impor- tant changes and improvements in the Machold Law, and this amending bill was passed as Chapter 584 of the Laws of 1916. The way was thus satisfactorily prepared at last for making use of the privilege conferred by the Burd Amendment of 248 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1918 (continued) Report for 1918. The report for this year is a paper-bound pamphlet of 203 pages, thicker than the preceding ones and containing more of general interest. It opens with a review of "Conservation during the War," and calls attention to the number of em- ployees of the Conservation Commission that served in the forestry regiments. Supplementary water-power pamphlet. The commission also issued a supplementary pamphlet of forty-five pages, giving a brief summary of the water-power resources of the State, and showing on a colored map the pro- posed reservoir sites in red. As these are mostly (all but three) in the Adirondack region, I give that portion of the map which shows them, and a table showing the amount of land to be flooded in the forest preserve. The report claims that 31,000 acres is all that **\\ill be required for practically complete development of the water storage possibilities of the region." This is less than two per cent, of the total area of the preserve, and the Burd Amendment of 1913 allowed the use of three per cent, if necessary. The adequacy of this amendment is therefore confirmed, and the attitude of those who opposed the indiscriminate flood of State lands is fully justified. The report, how^ever, calls attention to the fact *Hhat no provision has yet been made for the development of water power on State lands, and that further amendment to the Constitution will be necessary to that end." Saranac Lake — Old Forge Highway. This year saw the second modification of Section 7 of Article VII (the first being the Burd Amendment of 1913). The 1918 amendment provided for a much needed road improvement as follows : Nothing contained in this section shall prevent the State from con- structing a State Highway from Saranac Lake in Franklin County to Long Lake in Hamilton County and thence to Old Forge in Herki- mer County by way of Blue Mountain Lake and Raquette Lake. FOLDOUT n FOLDOUT LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 249 1918 (continued) This amendment met with very general approval and was carried at the November elections by a vote of 609,103 to 299,899. A glance at any road-map will show the need of such a measure. There was no connecting link between the good- roads system of the western and eastern sides of the moun- tains. This amendment made such a connection possible. Private funds to help purchase State lands. This year there occurred the first tender of private funds to iielp the State buy valuable lands for the Forest Preserve. The tract involved had been approved for purchase by the commissioners of the Land Office, and comprised 1,120 acres upon the slopes of Mackenzie and Saddleback mountains, be- tween Lake Placid and Saranac Lake. The owners of the property were the J. & J. Rogers Co., the International Paper Co., and the Champlain Realty Co. In 1917 the International Paper Co. began cutting on the slopes toward Lake Placid. The prospect of the denudation of this beautiful mountainside, with the attendant dangers of fire from the lumber slash, aroused the residents of the surrounding country; and the Shore Owners' Association of Lake Placid (of which Prof. E. R. A. Seligman is president) and the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks became active in urging the acquisition of the land by the State. The International Paper Co. being asked to suspend operations until the State authori- ties could be approached on the subject, acted in a spirit of friendly cooperation and stopped cutting; and the Conserva- tion Commissioner aided with his sympathetic advice. It ap- peared, however, that the dense stand of virgin spruce upon the property gave it a higher value than Commissioner Pratt felt that the State was justified in paying. In these circum- stances, the Shore Owners' Association offered to the State the sum of $30,000 as a contribution toward the purchase price, and with this aid, Commissioner Pratt recommended and the Commissioners of the Land Office in December, 1918, -voted that the land be appropriated by the State, the price per ^cre to be determined by the Court of Claims. 250 A HISTOKY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1919 (continued) Report for 1919. The ninth annual report of the Conservation Commission is a paper-bound volume of 250 pages, and many illustrations. Registration of guides. A new feature to which it calls attention is the registration of guides. A law passed this year authorized the commission to maintain a register of persons competent to engage in the business of guiding, and to furnish approved appli(?ants with a license and distinguishing badge. The law is not compul- sory, and no guide is obliged to register, but by so doing he gains official standing and his name is printed and widely distributed through the recreation circulars sent out by the Division of Lands and Forests. At the time of the writing of the report 1 76 guides had registered, and applications were coming in rapidly. Educatiofial propaganda. That part of the report which treats of the educational activities of the Conservation Commission is of such value and interest that I quote it here in full : With a full realization that in the last analysis all eonservation is based upon the cooperation of the public, the Commission has given uninterrupted attention to its educational work throughout the past year. This work, whose object is to arouse people at large to a cor- rect conservation viewpoint, and to mould their minds in conservation matters, consists of as wide dissemination as possible of information relative to conservation and the Conservation Commission, accom- plished through the medium of the written word, of the spoken word, and of pictures. News articles. A large number of news articles for the press, and of special illus- trated articles for magazines and Sunday editions of the newspapers, have been prepared, every one of which has carried a definite conserva- tion message. The system maintained by the Commission for keeping account of the results of work of this kind shows that its conservation articles were printed and reprinted throughout the State 3,432 times during the year 1919. The extent to which these articles are read is LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 251 1919 {continued) amply proved in the case of those which call for communication with the C'ommission— a deluge of letters being the usual result of the pub- lication of such an article. "The Conservationist." The Commission's illustrated monthly magazine, "The Conserva- tionist," has been published regularly during the year. A special campaign was carried on for the purpose of increasing the number of subscribers, with the result that the subscription roll has been more than doubled. ** Violations of the Conservation Law.*' "Wide demand by the newspapers and others for the Commission's monthly statement of "Violations of the Conservation Law," has necessitated an increase in the edition. This publication serves the double purpose of. showing just what the Commission is accomplish- ing along these lines, and also of giving publicity to the names of the law breakers. This, in itself, has been found to have an excellent educational value, as there are doubtless many persons who are de- terred from transgressing the law by the knowledge that their names would be spread abroad in the light of day. "This publication is worth five protectors in my district," said a certain sportsman re- cently, and the same sentiment has been expressed over all parts of the State. Lectures. With the close of the war an increased demand for lectures was immediately noticeable. In fact the number of requests for the Com- mission's lectures is now becoming so great that it is impossible to accede to all invitations. Dnrinu: 1919, 95 lectures have been given in all parts of the State, with a speaker from the Commission. This is an increase of 60 per cent, over 1918, when 58 lectures were given. As but few lectures are given during the summer months, it will be seen that during the lecture season the actual number delivered aver- aged more than two a week. Children and grown-ups. On two occasions it was possible to arrange a series of lectures in one section on successive dates. A motor truck was employed to con- vey the outfit from one center to another, in this way making possible, in some instances, three lectures in one day. It is also becoming a 252 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS 1919 (continued) not uncommon practice for centers in which an evening lecture for grown-ups has been scheduled, to request an afternoon lecture on the same day for children. Occasionally the auditorium of a high school has twice been filled for successive lectures to young people during the afternoon, in advance of a lecture to an adult audience in the evening. Personal contact. One of the main benefits derived from the lectures is the personal contact of representatives of the Commission with the varied types of audiences that are gathered together at the different centers. The lectures have been given by many different men in the Commission, each man speaking, as far as possible, upon the subjects that come within his own particular sphere. At every such meeting, members of the audience are encouraged to ask questions and to clear up in their own minds matters which may have been a source of misunder- standing. Thus, as a result of a better comprehension of what the Conservation Commission is, and what it is doing, its aims and ideals are spread abroad and a healthy spirit of cooperation is fostered. Record of audiences. At the beginning of the year a system was inaugurated of keeping a record of audiences at each lecture. The total of these figures shows that 21,570 persons were reached at the different lectures. The size of audiences varied from 15 to 1,500, although the average was about 225. Films and slides. In addition to the lectures that have been given with a speaker, the Commission's films and slides have many times been sent to points within the State, and also to other states, without a speaker. Certain of the conservation films, which were in use in the military camps during the war, have not cea-sed their usefulness since the war ended, but are now going the rounds of large manufacturing centers and be- ing used in connection with the welfare work of the plants. In one week these films have been shown in factories where as many as 80,000 persons are employed. Large stock of pictures. Considerable additions to the Commission's file of photographs, motion picture films and slides have been made during the year. An excellent new reel of animal subjects has been prepared which is now LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 253 121d (continued) being used at many of the lectures. Another new reel of bird life scenes is also proving very popular and instructive. The Commis- sion's stock of pictures is now so comprehensive that when it is neces- sary to schedule lectures by different speakers on the same evening, there is ample illustrative material at hand, and the necessity for duplication in visiting a center a second time is also obviated. Killing of does allowed. This year saw the passage of a rather surprising hunting- law allo\\4ng the shooting of does. Heretofore the existing ''buck law" permitted the taking of two deer with horns not less than three inches long. The new law, known as the Everett Bill, allowed the killing of one deer of either sex. The measure had many advocates, but aroused much weighty opposition and wide-spread discussion. The gover- nor gave a public hearing on the bill before signing it. This conference was largely attended, and the pros and cons of each side were exhaustively set forth. The supporters of the measure honestly believed it would lessen the number of does illegally killed under the "buck law." This contention could be disproved only by actual test, and this the governor decided to make. In signing the bill, he added a memorandum which closed as follows : '*It is therefore approved, as a test, so that it may be determined from actual experience during the next hunting season as to whether the existing law or the measure now under consideration actually tends to the greater preservation of the wild deer in our forests." The test was made during the hunting-season of 1919, and the result left no doubt in any open mind. The slaughter of does was pitifully large, and the Conservation Commission re- ports indicated that more bucks were killed than in a ''buck- law" year. 1920 Annual report. The tenth annual report of the Conservation Commission will appear too late for comment here. 254 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIKONDACKS 1920 (continued) "Buck law" reenacted. The wide-spread revulsion of feeling against the legalized killing of does, after the hunting-season of 1919, resulted in a recommendation from Governor Smith that the "buck law" be reenacted. Assemblyman Thayer introduced such a measure and it was promptly passed and signed. It allows the killing of one buck only, having horns at least three inches long, and curtails the hunting-season in the Adirondacks from six to four weeks, making it from October 15th to November 15th. Second appropriation from bond issue. The first $2,500,000 appropriated by the Legislature for the enlargement of the Forest Preserve, according to the bond issue of $7,500,000 approved in 1916, having been expended or pledged, a bill was introduced in the Legislature on March 25th, by Senator Marshall, and by Assemblyman Thayer, ap- propriating $2,500,000 more for this purpose. The bill was passed and became Chapter 681 of the Laws of 1920. Annual attack on Constitution. This year the annual attempt to amend Section 7 of Article Vll of the Constitution took the form of a concurrent resolu- tion introduced in the Senate on April 2d by Mr. Ferris. It includes in the purposes for which the Legislature may by law provide for the use of three per cent, of the forest preserve area provision for "the development of water power and for rights of way for electric transmission lines, all of which are hereby declared to be public uses." It also provides that "any such water power may be leased for terms of not exceed- ing ten years." The resolution was considered by many less objectionable in principle than in its ambiguity of phrasing, and the Associa- tion for the Protection of the Adirondacks sought to have it more carefully redrafted. The attempt failed, however, and the resolution was passed in its unsatisfactory form. It can- not become effective, of course, unless passed again by the Legislature of 1921 or 1922, and ratified by the people at a general election. LEGISLATIVE CONTROL 255 1920 {continued) The struggle of the future. In conclusion it should be said that attacks on Section 7 of Article VII bid fair to be more persistent, and perhaps more successful than ever. The scarcity of lumber, pulp-wood, and of newsprint has caused some of the New York papers to start an educational campaign for a more productive forest policy. The movement has the support of some well-known men. The plea is made that the "bad days" in the Adirondacks are over, and that the time has come to open them to scientific cut- ting and replanting — which is true conservation. The justice and wisdom of the theory no one will deny, and popular senti- ment is undoubtedly inclining more and more to give it a trial. It seems highly probable, therefore, that the forest struggle of the future will center around the safeguards of such a trial, rather than in unyielding opposition to it. LIST OF APPROPRIATIONS FOB THE PURCHASE OF LANDS IN THE FOREST PRESERVE 1890 $ 25,000 1895 600,000 1897 1,000,000 1898 500,000 1899 300,000 1900 250,000 1904 250,000 1906 400,000 1907 500,000 1909 200,000 A referendum approved by the people in 1916 provided that the Legislature might, from time to time, authorize the issu- ance of bonds totaling not more than $7,500,000. In the spring of 1917, $2,500,000 of this amount was made available, and another $2,500,000 was authorized in 1920. 256 A HISTOEY OF THE ADIRONDACKS TABLE OF FOREST PRESERVE LANDS i Date Acres 1885 May 18, 1886 681,374 1887 Dec. 31, 1888 '803,164 1889 1890 1891 731,674 Dec. 31, 1892 676,738 1893 1894 731,459 Jan. 20, 1897 801,473 Sep. 30, 1898 852,392 Dec. 31, 1899 1,109,140 Dec. 31, 1900 1,290,987 Mar. 23, 1901 1,306,327 Jan. 1, 1902 1,325,851 Jan. 1, 1903 1,305,532 Jan. 1, 1904 Jan. 1, 1905 1,306,700 Jan. 1, 1906 1,347,280 Jan. 1, 1907 1,415,775 Jan. 1, 1908 1,438,999 Jan. 1, 1909 1,481,998 Jan. 1, 1910 1,530,.559 Jan. 1, 1911 1.530,783 Jan. 1, 1912 1,531,648 Jan. 1, 1913 1,53*),I81 Jan. 1, 1914 1,713,697 Jan. 1, 1915 1,710,501 Jan. 1, 1916 1,702,506 Jan. 1, 1917 1,701,894 Jan. 1, 1918 1,702,136 Jan. 1, 1919 1,721,598 1 This table is taken from the Eighteenth Annual Report of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks. It was compiled from official sources and verified by Mr. A. B. Strough, Land Clerk of the Conservation Commission. The diminishing totals of some of the early years are due to lands redeemed or otherwise lost by the State. APPENDIX A INDIAN GRANT TO TOTTEN AND CROSSFIELD To All People to whome these presents shall come Greeting Know Ye that we Hendrick alias Tayahansara, Lourance alias Agguragies, Hans alias Canadajaure, & Hans Krine alias Onagoodhoge, Native Indians of the Mohock Castle send Greeting, whereas, Joseph Totten and Stephen Crossfield and others of his majes.ty's Subjects their Associates did lately petition the Right Honorable John Earle of Dun- more Captain General & Governor in chief in and over the province of New York and the territories depending thereon in America, Chan- cellor & Vice Admiral of the same in Council setting forth, among other things, in substance that by his most Gracious Majestys Royal proclamation given at the Council of St. James's the Seventh day of October in the third Year of the Reign reciting that whereas great Frauds and abuses had been committed in purchasing Lands of the Indians to the great prejudice of his Majestys Interests and to the great dissatisfaction of the said Indians, his said Majesty by and with the Advice of his privy Council did thereby strictly enjoin and re- quire that no private person do presume to purchase of the Native Indian proprietors any Lands not ceded to or purchased by his Majesty within those parts of his Majestys Colonies where he has thought proper to allow of Settlements but that if at any time any of the said Indians should be inclined to dispose of the said Lands the said should be purchased by his Majestys Governor or Commander in Chief of the said Colonies respectively within which they shall be and also setting forth in Substance that there is a certain un- patented Tract of Land lying and being on Sagondago or the West branch of Hudsons River beginning at the N. Wt. Corner of John Bergen's Petition & runs N. 30 Wt. until a line coming west 10 miles north of Crown Point shall intersect it, thence East to the north East branch of Hudsons River, thence down the same to a Tract of Land petitioned for by Edward & Ebenezer Jessup thence S. 60 Wt. to the place of beginning containing, by estimation, 800,000 Acres which Tract had never been ceded to or purchased by his Majesty or his Royal projenetors and predecessors but doth still remain Occupied by the Native Indians of the Mohock Castle, and also setting forth our willingness to dispose of our Native Indian Rights in favor of the Said Petitioners and thai'- Associates and our unwillingness to 257 258 APPENDICES make a conveyance of the Said Tract of Land in favor of any other Person whatsoever & that we the said Indians did then (as we now do) stand ready to convey the said Tract of Land in manner directed by the said royal proclamation provided that the said Petitioners & their Associates may be preferred to all other of his Majestys Sub- jects in a Grant of the same, and that his Excellency would be pleased at their Expense to make such purchase as aforesaid, and that they and their Associates might thereupon be favored with a Grant of the said Tract of Land under the Quit Rents and upon the Terms and Conditions prescribed by his Majestys Instructions all which Allega- tions and Suggestions in the said Petition we do hereby Acknowledge and Declare to be true. Now Therefore Know Ye that we the said Indians for and in behalf of ourselves and our Nation at a publick Meeting or Assembly with his Excellency William Tryon, Esquire, his Majestys Captain General & Commander in Chief of the province of New York &c. &c. &c. at Johnson Hall pursuant to his ^Majestys Royal Proclamation aforesaid do now declare our intentions and in- clinations to dispose of the said Tract of Land above described in the Comities of Tryon and Albany in favor of the said Petitioners and their Associates and accordingly by these presents at the said publick Meeting and Assembly held for the purpose with the Assistance of John Butler Es(}uire Interpreter to us well known do for and in Con- sideration of the Sum of Eleven Hundred and thirty-five Pounds lawful Money of New York to us in hand paid by the said Petitioners and the further sum of five Shillings like lawful Money to us in hand paid by his said Excellency' in behalf of his most Sacred Majesty George the third King of Great Britain, France and Ireland, de- fender of the faith &c. the receipt whereof we do hereby confess and acknowledge and thereof and therefrom and of and from every part and parcel thereof we do fully and freely & absolutely release Ex- onerate and forever discharge his said Majesty, his Heirs, Successors and Assigns & the said Petitioners & their Assigns, their Executors Adiministrators and Assigns forever by these presents and also in order to enable the said Petitioners and their Associates to obtain his Majestys Grant in fee simple for all the said Tract of Land above described within the limits and bounds hereinbefore mentioned as fully and as effectually as if the same were herein more particularly & exactly described Have Granted, Bargained, Sold aliend, released, Conveyed infeoffed, ceded. Disposed of Surrendered & confirmed and by these presents do fully freely and absolutely grant Bargain, Sell, Alien release, Convey, infeoff. Cede dispose of Surrender and Con- firm unto his said Majesty King George the third, his Heirs, Sue- APPENDICES 259 cessors and Assigns forever all and singular the Tract & Tracts, parcel & parcels, Quantities and Quantities of Land be the same more or less within the General Boundaries and Limits above mentioned, Contained and Comprehended And Also all and singular the Trees, Woods, Un- derwoods, Eivers, Streams, Ponds, Creeks, Rivulets, Brooks, Runs and Streams of water. Waters, Water-Courses, profits, Comodities, Ad- vantages, Emoluments, privileges, Hereditaments and Appurtenances to all and singular the said Lands, Tracts or parcels of Land or any and every part and parcel Thereof with the appurtances, thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining and the reversion and rever- sions, remainder & remainders, rents, Issues and profits of all and singular the said Tracts and parcels of Land and every part and parcel thereof and also all the Estate, Right, Title, Interest property Claim and Demand Avhatsoever whether native legal or Equitable, of us the said Indians, and each and every of us of in or to the said Lands Tracts or parcels of lands and any and every part and parcel thereof hereby meant, mentioned or intended to be hereby Granted bargained Sold, Aliened, Released, Conveyed, Enfeoffed, Ceded, Dis- posed of, Surrendered and Confirmed with their and every of their Rights, Members and Appurtances unto his said Majesty King George the third, his Heirs, Successors and Assigns forever In Wit- ness Whereof w^e the said Indians in behalf of ourselves and Our Nation have hereunto set our Hands and Seals in the presence of his said Excellency and of the other persons Subscribing as witness here- unto at the aforesaid publick jMeeting or Assembly held for that pur- pose at Johnson Hall this 15th day of July in the twelfth Year of his said ]\Iajestys Reign and in the Year of Our Lord one thousand seven hundred & Seventy two. Seai>ed and Delivered Hendricks (Mark) in the presence of us, Abrams (Mark) Pat. Daly Agwhrraeghje John Butler. Johans Crim Received on the day and Year above written of the within William Tryon Esquire the sum of five shillings and of the within named pe- titioners the sum of Eleven hundred & thirty-five pounds lawful Money of New York being the full consideration Money within men- tioned. Hendricks (Mark) Abrams (Mark) Agwtrraeghje Johans Crim 260 APPENDICES I do herby Certify that the within Deed was Executed and the consideration Money paid in my presence. Wm. Tryon. APPENDIX B HISTORICAL NOTES OF THE SETTLEMENT ON No. 4, BROWN'S TRACT, IN WATSON, LEWIS COUNTY, N. Y. WITH NOTICES OF THE EARLY SETTLERS "Neque semper arcum tendit ApolloJ UTICA, N. Y. Roberts, Printer, (iO Genesee Street 1864 [On the page facing tliis imprint is a photograph of Orrin Fenton. Photograph by Van Aken, Lowville, N. Y.] The following Notes were chiefly prepared for the consideration of a Club formed with a view, in part, to the local history of Lewis County, and not for publication. Proud of its past, and solicitous of its future annals: To those living of the Early Settlers of the Black River Country, and the descendants of those dead, this Historical Brick from the hearthstone of a well-known locality in that Country, is respectfully inscribed. Martinsburgh, June 1, 1864. W. Hudson Stephens. CHAPTER I ROUTE From Mount Tahawus, (Marcy) the Adirondac range — the Moun- tain, Lake, and Wilderness region of New York — slopes to Lake Cham- plain and River St. Lawrence, on the E. and N., and the Black River on the "West. Upon the Western base the locality of No. 4 is situated. The distance over Rail and Plank Road from Trenton Falls to Low- ville is forty-one miles. It is a journey thence of eighteen miles from Lowville. Passing the spot where the first settlers of Lowville rested with their APPENDICES 261 families on the first night of their settlement of the new township —10th April, 1798; the old swing-gate guarding the Black River flats, erected so long ago the record of its legal existence has died out from the Town book; the curvilinear road on the river bank, where negligence or town penury has sacrificed so many horses; the State swing-bridge over the River Improvement, with its works of support and defense against the stream, and famous in recent State political struggles; the grove-surrounded residence of Commissioner Beach; the Church upon the plain of Watson, fixing the landscape from the West; the home of "Hunter" Higby— the volunteer at fifty-five; the solid brick school-house; the square-roofed residence of Ex-Sheriff Kirly, now the home of the Fenton; over sand deep and hard— hill, level, and stream, beyond Crystal Lake, and across the famous Black Creek — we stop at Robert Griffiths, the justice, hunter, and local preacher, with its chain-pump in front, and the school-house op- posite. It is the last school-house we shall find. An irregular, winding road, through woods for eight miles, and we emerge amid partially cleared lands, with here and there an apple and cherry tree in the grass plot of a deserted farm — into quite a "Deserted Village" — houses without tenants — barns wanting boards and crops — an abandoned school-house, windows out and door gone — into the cultivated clearing of No. 4. Beyond Chauncey Smith's, on the left, and the Champlain Road, extending eighty miles into the Wilderness, on the right ; the red house of Fenton, perched on the brow of the hill, is approached by the road leading down to Wet- more 's, and through the lot to the landing on Beaver Lake. (Francis, Wood, Salmon, Beaver Dam, and Crooked Lakes are easy of access from No. 4. Trout and salmon are the principal fish. Deer Stalking frequent and successful. "Floating" in June — May and September, principal fishing.) Mountains covered with evergreen, huge, and stretching away into the distance — the indented lake with its islands, and beach crowded with fishing craft, and an occasional shanty— with the breeze wafting the dull, resonant sound of the waters at "the Palls" on the river be- low—who, fresh from the settled Valley of the Black River, ever loses the impress from memory's tablet which this first view ever makes on the enraptured vision? How appropriate here the rejected verses of Gray 's ' ' Elegy ' ' : How the sacred calm that breathes around, Bids every fierce, tumultuous passion cease; In .still, small accents, whispering from the ground A grateful earnest of eternal peace. 262 APPENDICES There scattered oft, the earliest of the year, By liands unseen are showers of violets found; The redbreast loves to build and warble there, And little footsteps lightly print the ground. CHAPTER II • THE FIRST FISHING PARTIES To realize No. 4, is to seek and find repose — exclusion and "with- out care" — from the treadmill of labor, the anxieties of politics, the perplexities of traflfic, and from the chain-like task of a weary and overtaxed brain. Here, in the earlier annals of Lewis County, Alex- ander "W. Stow, I. W. Bostwick, and others departed, sought convivial hours and glorious freedom. It is a place "For all ye wretched mortals Aspiring to be rich And ye whose gilded coaches Have tumbled in the ditch." From the traditions about the camp fire, the reminiscences of other days, with characteristics of the actors, are easily gathered. Of the first fishing party to No. 4 (1818 or '19), were Cornelius Low (agent, with Bostwick, of his father, Nicholas Low of New York City, proprietor of Lowville from 1818 to 1826. Was a brother of I\rrs. Charles King, President of Columbia College. Died 1849). Heman Stickney (owned an oil mill on the site of Willard's factory, Lowville ; brother-in-law of Ehud Stephens, who with Jonathan Rogers were first settlers of Lowville). Otis Whipple (Lowville merchant; years before his death a resident of Utica). Charles Dayan (student of Bostwick and Low ; State Senator in 1828, and president pro tern, of the same; defeated by Silas Wright, Jr., 1829, for Comptroller, in Legislative Caucus; in Congress, 20th District, from 1831 to 1833, and a member of Committee on Manufactures), Russell Parish, (graduate of Yale College, 1813; law\'er at Lowville; member of Con- stitutional Convention, 1846, from Lewis County. Died 1855, at Low- ville). Samuel Rogers (son of Capt. Rogers of Lowville; educated at Hamilton College, a lawyer. Married and died at New Orleans) with Thomas Puffer as guide. (Puffer was a native of Princeton, Mass. ; settled in Watson about 1800, and was for many years the only settler. Died about 1836. A large family survives him, among them, Isaac, widely known as "chapter and verse" minister of the M. E. Church.) They went with team as far as John Beach's (seven APPENDICES 263 miles east of Black River) thence on foot, having Sam Roger's hor- rowed horse with packages. The most noticeable incidents of this pioneer party who camped at "Fish Hole" and fished at Beaver Falls for eight days early in June, were the naming of the creek at Fish Hole, "Sunday Creek," alike from their attachment to the name and it being commemorative of the day of their camping there ; the burning at the camp fire, by Low, of both his boots, and the improvising of bark ones; and that Sam lost his horse, which was found after an absence of three weeks. The following year, Alex. W. Stow, James T. Watson, and Ziba Knox tried their luck at the locality for one week. Stow was a native of Lowville. Removing from Lowville, he died, September 14, 1854, at Milwaukee, Chief Justice of Wisconsin; son of Judge Silas Stow of Lowville, and brother of Horatio J. Stow, late of Erie County. James Taleott Watson made the first attempt to settle these lands (Watson) and for many years was accustomed to spend his summers in the country, at Lowville. He was a man of fine education and affable manners, and in early life was a partner in the house of Thos. L. Smith & Co., East India Merchants, in which capacity he made a voyage to China. The death of a Miss Livingston, to whom he was engaged to be married, induced a mental aberration which continued through life, being more aggravated in certain seasons of the year, while at others it was scarcely perceptible. In after life, the image of the loved and lost often came back to his memory, like the sunbeam from a broken mirror, and in his waking reveries he was heard to speak of her as present in the spirit, and a confidant of his inmost thoughts. In his business transactions Mr. Watson often evinced a caprice which was sometimes amusing, and always innocent. This was, by most persons, humored, as tending to prevent any unpleasant result, which opposition might at such times have upon him. In the summer of 1838, he undertook to cultivate an immense garden, chiefly of culinary vegetables, upon his farm in Watson ; beginning at a season when under the most favorable conditions nothing could come to ma- turity, and insisting that he would be satisfied if the seeds only sprouted, as this would prove the capacity of his land. In his social intercourse Mr. Watson often evinced, in a high degree, many noble and manly qualities. With a lively fancy and ready command of language, he had the power of rendering himself emi- nently agreeable, while many of those who settled upon his tract will bear witness that he possessed a kind and generous heart. But there 264 APPENDICES were moments when the darkest melancholy settled upon him, utterly beyond relief from humany sj^mpathy; and in one of these he ended his own life. He committed suicide with a razor, in New York, Janu- ary 29, 1839, at the age of 50 years. His estate was divided among thirty -nine first cousins on his father's side, and five on his mother's side ; and some of these shares were further subdivided among numer- ous families. The sixty thousand acres, when divided, gave to a cousin's share over sixteen hundred acres, but some parcels amounted to but thirty-three acres. This sketch of Watson is from Hough's Lewis County. Its earlier reputation — No. 4, has one for purity, for peace, and innocent abandon — kindly cared for, has brought frequenters from a distance. Here the massive brain and keen perceptive qualities which, as Chief Justice of the State (Comstoek, of Syracuse,) pronounced the judicial fiat of its highest court against legislation trenching on reserved privilege; the legal giant (B. Davis Noxon) of the Fifth Dis- trict, venerable and replete with learning, to whom the "hour" rule of the Court seems to have no reference; and that fatherly Judge (D. Pratt) laborious and faithful to the public business, who could con- sent to stay in Lewis County over one week to discharge his functions, and others have been found refreshing their jaded intellectual powers, lulled by nature's kindest harmonies. Constable's "shanty" at No. 4, and the "Point" on Raquette Lake, forty miles beyond, and the names of ladies on the "Notched Tree" on top of Mt. Emmons (Blue Mountain) eighty miles in the wilderness from Lowville, reveal who are frequenters of the attractive regions of the Adirondac; while the annual return of a member of the New York Sportman's Club (Judge Stevens, of Hoboken) throwing a line of one hundred and fifty feet with reel, impresses its value on the Waltonian. CHAPTER III PRESENT SETTLEMENT In 1822, a settlement was begun in the eastern border of the town (Watson) on No. 4, Brown's Tract, by Aaron Barber and Bunce. In 1826, Orrin Fenton settled, "and is still, with one exception, the only settler living in that part of the town. ' ' Hough's Lewis Co. "Watson" p. 225. This is the chronicle of the local historian of the settlement of this, one of the most interesting localities in the county. Here Fenton and his "busy housewife" have lived for nearly forty years. APPENDICES 265 "Far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife, Their sober wishes never learned to stray; Along the cool sequestered vale of life, They kept the noiseless tenor of their way." His- head is whitened with the snows of seventy-nine winters, "While years Have pushed his bride of the woods, with soft and inoffensive pace, Into the stilly twilight of her age." With an intimate knowledge of every locality within miles, the ''runways" of deer, the haunt of bear and panther, and resort of game ; the discoverer of lakes and streams, fish-holes, beaver meadows, -and windfalls; a faithful disciple of Walton — he has quietly pursued his gentle avocations of the fisherman and hunter, remote from busy haunts, and secluded beyond most men from the world, far above the average of life; relinquishing them only when time's mutations, crossing his threshold, has removed his (fourteen) children to other scenes, and made sad havoc on his once athletic frame. For about eighteen years, two families. Smith and Wetmore, have been his only neighbors. (Chauncey Smith, an old-school hunter, has keep for teams of the south branch of Beaver River, on the Champlain road, eighteen miles east of No. 4, and is the only sojourner between No. 4, and Raquette.) Without litigation — almost beyond all public duty or burdens, except the draft (the call of war reaches every abode) these families, without school or ministration, have mingled the duties of the farm and sports of the field and stream. As if to mock them of their happiness the town elected Arettus Wetmore a constable, and imposed road duties upon another — but the processes which the one carries are as scarce as the victims of written law within the great area of nature which, with his unerring rifle, he so often traverses. CHAPTER IV FIRST SETTLERS ON NO. 3 AND 4 But our concern is with the past of this No. 4— its history, hopes, settlement, and people. The first settler in its vicinity is believed to have been Ephraim Craft, on the Champlain road, beyond No. 4, on this (west) side of Beaver River. One Lippincott first bought and lived one season at No. 4, in a stockade of upright sticks, between Francis and Beaver Lake. As in remote localities in new countries, inducements were offered to the earlier settlers. In the West a free village lot or water right ; 266 APPENDICES here, a farm of one hundred acres to the first ten settlers. Men yield to them to find often, East and West, the inducement is about all the pre-emptioner ever obtains. These presented as varied characters of usefulness and merit as the fish abundant in their streams and lakes. The "old road" — now in desuetude, on No. 3, leading from Bush's Saw Mill, crossing Burnt Creek three times, to Smith's — was the scene of early effort ; there, upon its bush-grown track, may still be seen the homes and hearthstones, eloquent in decay, around which trustful and hopeful childhood played and whiled away its "young hours," with their uncultivated gardens and orchards of ungathered fruit. Here Chester Douglass, of Leyden, and Roswell Chubb settled, and here Chubb 's wife died. The house and orchard of Robert Griffiths, 'Sr., where several of his boys were born — among them, William, lately drowned in the inlet of Tupper's Lake — is on the "old road," about two miles from No. 4. He removed to No. 4, on the now Chauncey Smith lot. CHAPTER V THE PRE-EMPTIONERS The ten pre-emptioners are stated as follows: Aaron Barber, settled opposite and below Fenton's, now deceased. Benjamin Bunce — his shanty was on Fenton's lot towards Beaver Lake, on the same side of the road. William Chandler, settled on corner lot of Champlain road. Lives West. Levi Barber, settled where Fenton lived on Stow's Square. Lorenzo Post, settled opposite Chauncey Smith's — now deceased. Hezekiah Tiffany, settled below Smith's — died at No. 4, buried near Wetmore. Ives B. Rich, settled 1823, resides in Wisconsin. John Gordon, whom Daniel Wilder bought out — now Wetmore's place. John Rettis, settled 1826, now of Lowville. Jabez Carter, settled in February 1825, on one hundred and two acres under contract with Herreshoff to remain thereon four years, to clear sixteen acres and build a house and barn, for which he was to receive at the expiration of the four years a deed of his "inducement." He re- moved therefrom in December, 1831, but not without giving the set- tlement the benefit of his varied skill and capacity, he having taught at No. 4, the first school of about thirty-five scholars at fifteen dollars APPENDICES 267 per month, and boarded himself. He engaged in the mercantile busi- ness and potash manufacture, and established a still for expressing hemlock, balsam, and tamarae oils, of which he marketed a total of one hundred pounds. He also acted one year as superintendent of the common school, of which he was the teacher, and trusted out as a permanent sinking fund about $300 of his goods and groceries for the general well-being of the infant settlement. He still retains, how- ever, the fee of his one hundred and two acres, with its ninety cents yearly tax ; though his attention at the age of seventy-three in public affairs is engrossed in the manifold and multiplied duties of Liquor Commissioner of Lewis County, residing at Lowville. One Douglass succeeded him as teacher, removing West. CHAPTER VI SUBSEQUENT SETTLERS — FENTON 'S PANTHER HUNT RELIGIOUS INTEREST Of the first shoal of settlers endeavoring to fix a permanent abode in the Wilderness, at No 4, were : Peter Wakefield, who settled on the now Smith place, about 1826 or 1827 ; which place was thereafter occupied by Wilbur Palmer; Isaac Wetmore (son of Reuben, of Spencertown, Columbia County, N. Y.) about 1834, the white slab of whose grave (he died September 11, 1853) is visible from the road- side below Fenton's and to draft whose will, L. C. Davenport of the Lowville Bar, traveled twenty miles and back ; Orrin Fenton (son of Ebenezer) born July 1, 1784, at Mansfield, Conn., and successively a resident of Windsor, Champion, and Lowville, and who, losing his wife, — Barber, by whom he had seven children — five now living — afterwards married at Lowville, Lucy Weller, of Westficld, Mass. (of their three boys and two girls, four survive) settled at No. 4, March 21, 1826. Of all these settlers, but Fenton remains, *'a rude fore- father of the hamlet. ' ' One incident illustrative of Fenton's early forest experience must suffice. About 1835, Fenton set, about half a mile from Beaver Lake, and ten rods from the river of that name, a wolf trap secured by a chain to a sapling. On visiting his trap he was somewhat surprised at not finding it, and by marks upon shrubs he traced it to a cedar swamp. Examining carefully, he discovered a big track, and arm- ing himself with a club, advanced to a closer acquaintance with the possessor of the trap ; but finding on the bushes gray hair instead of black, he wisely concluded it was not a bear but a wolf. While pur- suing carefully the track, he discovered, crouched upon all fours be- 268 APPENDICES side a log, ten feet from him, a large panther with the lost trap on his fore foot, Fenton made for the other side of the log with his club, when the panther ran from him some ten rods, bearing the trap. Concluding the job with his club he found would be larger than he expected, so he went back for his rifle, and returned, with I. Wetmore, to where he had left the panther. Fenton fired at four rods, hitting him below the eye, but did not kill him. He jumped up and faced his adversaries, growled, and savagely showed his "ivories," when a second shot by Fenton brought him down. He weighed about two hundred pounds, and measured nine feet from tip to tip. About 1832-35, there were about seventy-five settlers, and in 1842, a religious revival took place, at which Elder Blodget and others ministered, making sixty converts. CHAPTER VII AGENTS — DECAY OF SETTLEMENT — DAYAN's BET — JAMES 0'KA.NE As one by one the pioneers removed to more inviting localities, new ones came in — a squatter upon the improvements of the last owner, remained a short period, and followed his predecessor. Upon some of the lots several in succession settled and then departed, as the clouds of disaster settled, and disappointed hope grew gloriously feeble. Hence, George Turner was found on the Chandler lot, and Henry Loomis, McBride, and Henry Davis opposite Turner's lot, succeeded each other, while John Gordon and Brown located below Smith's on the same side. Bunce, whose house is still held together by the coherence of old carpentry, on "Old Road," became first a settler on the lot of Fen- ton's and Chubb afterwards succeeded him as possessor for a season of the coveted domain on No. 3. Of the residue of the settlers, temporary sojourners in that land of early promise, little is remembered. Where Grott and Burton "chopped" north of Beaver River, the most distant effort — "picket duty against the wilderness" — is pointed out ; while Fletcher's "chop- ping" is a known locality on this side that river, Peter Wakefield's family was among the last who "dug out" from No. 4, in 1847, to New Bremen. These settlers came in the palmy days when John Brown Francis figured as proprietor, and Charles Dayan, John Beach, and John B, Harrischoff were agents — for it required agents bustling with author- ity to manage such possessions in those days. APPENDICES 269 Of the new residents who from time to time made investment in the locality, I am not informed. On the Champlain road, out from No. 4, half a mile beyond Craft 's clearing, is the one hundred acres which was lost by George W. Bostwick on a bet with Hon. Charles Dayan against a new saddle, on the political result of Lewis County in the memorable contest of 1844. The vote of the county having been against the "great commoner," the lot was deeded in March, 1845. At Stillwater, eight miles from No. 4, is the grave of James O'Kane. The following appeared in the "Northern Journal," in January, 1858 : "Died, alone in his shanty, near the confluence of Twitchel Creek and Beaver River, (Still water) Herkimer County, N. Y., on the first day of January, 1858, from cancer of the stomach, James O'Kane, aged about 70 years. "Deceased has lived alone in his shanty, where his lifeless remains were found, for about twelve years. From his position on his couch by the fire, his head and shoulders being gently elevated and his hands quietly crossed upon his breast, his last hours and the departure of his spirit were in harmony with the solitude around his forest home. An abundance of flour, cheese, butter, bread, potatoes, etc., were found in his shanty. He was a fisherman, trapper, and hunter; said to be of fair education. A worn copy of the 'gospels' and a work on the 'Piscatory Art' constituted his library. He owned several boats that plied, at the command of hunting and fishing parties, upon the lakes, sometimes as far up as Albany Lake. From parties he was generally the recipient of the leavings of 'provisions and potations' by which his larder was replenished. Many a sportsman will recall with delight his night spent beneath the protecting roof of 'Jimmy.' "On the 5th inst. a party, consisting of Elder Robinson, Ex-Sheriff Kirly, Joseph Garmon, William Glenn, E. Harvey, R. Kirly, F. Robin- son, and A. Wetmore, buried his remains on a bluff overlooking the river, near the well-known shanty, a spot selected and formerly pointed out by 'Jimmy' to Elder Robinson as the place of his repose. A rude wooden monument marks the head, and an oar the foot of his grave. He died alone. Found dead and alone! Nobody lienrd his last faint groan, Or knew when his sad heart ceased to beat. No mourner lingered with tears or sighs, But the stars looked down with pitying eyes, And the chill winds passed with a wailing sound, O'er the lonely spot where his form was found — Found dead and alone!" 270 APPENDICES CHAPTER VIII SALE AND REMOVAL OF FENTON The period of selling out the old home, of removing from the wilder- ness world which he had presided over so many years, approached. The writer, while at Wetmore's, in August, 1862, was requested to act professionally by the proposed purchaser of Fenton's occupation and rights, in drafting the necessary papers to effectuate a sale. Be- ing the sole attorney in the vicinage, this rare and unexpected pro- fessional engagement induced a prompt attendance at Fenton's after dinner on the day following (Saturday). Fonton and the purchaser having concluded their long consultation, and the old gentleman hav- ing occasionally exchanged views with his "better half," still active in household duties though stooping with age; and John being called from the garden to concur in and approve the arrangements, the papers were in process of preparation for signature, when the original title deeds were deemed a proper muniment and guide on the occa- sion. The deed from Governor Francis and wife, produced after consid- erable delay, dated in 1826, was acknowledged before John Beach, Commissioner of Deeds, and was discolored with age. Having never been of record, it was brought to the clerk's office, where they are supposed to know the signature of commissioners who died about the time the clerk was born, and to record them as genuine! The reluctance of the proprietor to dispose of his old home and re- move from his haunts and fishing grounds was evident. It took an entire afternoon to "do the business," for which ample compensation was accorded by a ride with John, who was going out the day follow- ing to Lowville. Fitting regard for the feelings of attachment and regret which age cherished at such an hour, was had by the purchaser as one by one the different articles of husbandry were mentioned to be included in the sale — mentioned often with a sigh as again thought passed over the ancient woods home — by refraining to remind him of the boats and craft with which he had so many times pursued his course over the lakes and fishing grounds, and which it had been agreed upon should pass with the lands. By reason of such omission they were not mentioned in the written transfer to Louis B. Lewis, with posses- sion, which he assumed on January 1, 1863, of the well-known stand and farm of Fenton, No. 4. Fexton — who shall or can chronicle the experiences of his heart- life of forty years in the Wilderness? Tri the memory of how many a laborer and wanderer is his cheerful, tidy home treasured, and the APPENDICES 271 kindly attentions of his forest home recalled with grateful recollec- tions! Amid such scenes of wild beauty the genius of Wordsworth was roused into active utterance of the melody of "a heart grown holier, as it traced the beauty of the world below." The silenc'e and solitude of the northern forest has had its charms for him. Who will say his heart's earlier aspirations have not been as effectually satisfied in the solitude of the uncultivated forest, as if he had moved amid the crowded haunts of the busy city? This sportsman by land and stream, this forest farmer, looks back upon woodland scene and experience with sighs. How true that while hope writes the poetry of the boy, memory writes that of the man ! Martinsburgh, Febniary 1863. APPENDIX C THE ADIRGNDACS^ A Journal By Ralph Waldo Emebson Dedicated to My Fellow Travelers in August, 1858 Wise and polite, — and if I drew Their several portraits, you would own Chaucer had no such worthy crew, Nor Boccace in Decameron. We crossed Champlain to Keeseville with our friends, Thence, in strong country carts, rode up the forks Of the Ausable stream, intent to reach The Adirondac lakes. At Martin's beach We chose our boats ; each man a boat and guide, — Ten men, ten guides, our company all told. Next morn, we swept with oars the Saranae, With skies of benediction, to Round Lake, Where all the sacred mountains drew around us, Tahawus, Seaward, Maclntyre, Baldhead, And other titans without muse or name. Pleased with these grand companions, Ave glide on. Instead of flowers, crowned with a wreath of hills. Reprinted here by permission of Houghton, Mifflin Company. 272 APPENDICES We made our distance wider, boat from, boat, As each would hear the oraele alone. By the bright morn the gaj' flotilla slid Through files of flags that gleamed like bayonets, Through gold-moth-haunted beds of pickerel-flower, Through scented banks of lilies white and gold, Where the deer feeds at night, the teal by day. On through the Upper Saranac, and up Fere Raquette stream, to a small tortuous pass Winding through grassy shallows in and out. Two creeping miles of rushes, pads and sponge, To Follansbee Water and the Lake of Loons. Northward the length of Follansbee we rowed, Under low mountains, whose unbroken ridge Ponderous with beechen forest sloped the shore. A pause and council ; then, where near the head Due east a bay makes inward to the land Between two rocky arms, we climb the bank, And in the twilight of the forest noon Wield the flrst axe these echoes ever heard. We cut young trees to make our poles and thwarts, Barked the white spruce to weatherfend the roof, Then struck a light and kindled the camp-fire. The wood was sovran with centennial trees, — Oak, cedar, maple, poplar, beech and fir, Linden and spruce. In strict society Three conifers, white, pitch and Norway pine. Five-leaved, three-leaved and two-leaved, grew thereby. Our patron pine was fifteen feet in girth. The maple eight, beneath its shapely tower, 'Welcome!' the wood-god murmured through the leaves- * Welcome, though late, unknowing, yet known to me.' Evening drew on ; stars peeped through maple-boughs. Which o'erhung, like a cloud, our camping fire. Decayed millennial trunks, like moonlight flecks. Lit with phosphoric crumbs the forest floor. Ten scholars, wonted to lie warm and soft In well-hung chambers daintily' bestowed, Lie here on hemlock-boughs, like Sacs and Sioux, APPENDICES 273 And greet unanimous the joyful change. So fast will Nature acclimate her sons, Though late returning to her pristine ways. Off soundings, seamen do not suffer cold; And, in the forest, delicate clerks, unbrowned, Sleep on the fragrant brush, as on down-beds. Up with the dawn, they fancied the light air That circled freshly in their forest dress Made them to boys again. Happier that they Slipped off their pack of duties, leagues behind, At the first mounting of the giant stairs. No placard on these rocks warned to the polls, No door-bell heralded a visitor. No courier waits, no letter came or went, Nothing was ploughed, or reaped, or bought, or sold ; The frost might glitter, it would blight no crop, The falling rain will spoil no holiday. We were made freemen of the forest laws. All dressed, like Nature, fit for her own ends, Essaying nothing she cannot perform. In Adirondac lakes, At mom or noon, the guide rows bareheaded : Shoes, flannel shirt, and kersey trousers make His brief toilette : at night, or in the rain. He dons a surcoat which he doffs at morn: A paddle in the right hand, or an oar. And in the left, a gun. his needful arms. By turns we praised the stature of our guides, Their rival strength and suppleness, their skill To row, to swim, to shoot, to build a camp. To climb a lofty stem, clean without boughs Full fifty feet, and bring the eaglet down : Temper to face wolf, bear, or catamount, And wit to trap or take him in his lair. Sound, ruddy men, frolic and innocent, In winter, lumberers ; in summer, guides ; Their sinewy arms pull at the oar untired Three times ten thousand strokes, from morn to eve. Look to yourselves, ye polished gentlemen ! No city airs or arts pass current here. 274 APPENDICES Your rank is all reversed : let men of cloth Bow to the stalwart churls in overalls : They are the doctors of the wilderness, And we the low-prized laymen. In sooth, red flannel is a saucy test Which few can put on with impunity. What make you, master, fumbling at the oar? Will you catch crabs? Truth tries pretention here. The sallow knows the basket-maker's thumb; The oar, the guide's. Dare you accept the tasks He shall impose, to find a spring, trap foxes. Tell the sun's time, determine the true north. Or stumbling on through vast self -similar woods To thread by night the nearest way to camp ? Ask you, how went the hours? All day we swept the lake, searched everj' cove, North from Camp Maple, south to Osprej' Bay, Watching when the loud dogs should drive in deer, Or whipping its rough surface for a trout; Or, bathers, diving from the rock at noon ; Challenging Echo by our guns and cries ; Or listening to the laughter of the loon ; Or, in the evening twilight's latest red, Beholding the procession of the pines; Or, later yet, beneath a lighted jack. In the boat's bow, a silent night-hunter Stealing with paddle to the feeding-grounds Of the red deer, to aim at a square mist. Hark to that muffled roar ! a tree in the woods Is fallen : but hush ! it has not scared the buck Who s-tands astonished at the meteor light, Then turns to bound away, — is it too late ? Our heroes tried their rifles at a mark, Six rods, sixteen, twenty, or forty-five; Sometimes their wits at sally and retort. With laughter sudden as the crack of rifle ; Or parties scaled the near acclivities, Competing seekers of a rumored lake. Whose unauthenticated waves we named APPENDICES 275 Lake Probability, — our carbuncle, Long sought, not found. Two Doctors in the camp Dissected the slain deer, weighed the trout's brain, Captured the lizard, salamander, shrew, Crab, mice, snail, dragon-fly, minnow and moth ; Insatiate skill in water or in air Waved the scoop-net, and nothing came amiss ; The while, one leaden pot of alcohol Gave an impartial tomb to all the kinds. Not less the ambitious botanist sought plants. Orchis and gentian, fern and long whip-scirpus, Rosy polysfonum, lake-margin's pride, Hypnum and hydnum, mushroom, sponge and moss. Or harebell nodding in the gorge of falls. Above, the eagle flew, the osprey screamed, The raven croaked, owls hooted, the woodpecker Loud hammered, and the heron rose in the swamp. As water poured through hollows of the hills To feed this wealth of lakes and rivulets, So Nature shed all beauty lavishly From her redundant horn. Lords of this realm, Bounded by dawn and sunset, and the day Rounded bj' hours where each outdid the last In miracles of pomp, we must be proud, As if associates of the sylvan gods. "We seemed the dwellers of the zodiac. So pure the Alpine element we breathed. So light, so lofty pictures came and went. We trod on air, condemned the distant town, Its timorous ways, big trifles, and we planned That we should build, hard-by, a spacious lodge And how we should come hither with our sons. Hereafter, — willing they, and more adroit. Hard fare, hard bed and comic misery — The midge, the blue-fly and the mosciuito Painted our necks, hands, ankles, with red bands : 276 APPENDICES But, on the second day, we heed them not, Nay, we saluted them Auxiliaries, Whom earlier we had chid with spiteful names. For who defends our leafy tabernacle From bold intrusion of the traveling crowd, — "Who but the midge, mosquito and the fly, Which past endurance sting the tender cit. But which we learn to scatter with a smudge, Or baffle by a veil, or slight by scorn ? Our foaming ale we drank from hunter's pans, Ale, and a sup of wine. Our steward gave Venison and trout, potatoes, beans, wheat-bread; All ate like abbots, and, if any missed Their wanted convenance, cheerly hid the loss With hunter's appetite and peals of mirth. And Stillman, our guides' guide, and Commodore, Crusoe, Crusader, Pius ^neas, said aloud, "Chronic dj'spepsia never came from eating Food indigestible": — then murmured some. Others applauded him who spoke the truth. Nor doubt but visit ings of graver thought Checked in these souls the turbulent heyday 'Mid all the hints and glories of the home. For who can tell what sudden privacies Were sought and found, amid the hue and cry Of scholars furloughod from their tasks and let Into this Oreads' fended Paradise, As chapels in the city's thoroughfares. Whither gaunt Labor slips to wipe his brow And meditate a moment on Heaven's rest. Judge with what sweet surprises Nature spoke To each apart, lifting her lovely shows To spiritual lessons pointed home, And as through dreams in watches of the night, So through all creatures in their form and ways Some mystic hint accosts the vigilant, Not clearly voiced, but waking a new sense Inviting to new knowledge, one with old. Hark to that petulant chirp ! what ails the warbler? Mark his capricious ways to draw the eye. J APPENDICES 277 Now soar again. What wilt thou, restless bird, Seeking in that chaste blue a bluer light, Thirsting in that pure for a purer sky? And presently the sky is changed ; world ! What pictures and what harmonies are thine ! The clouds are rich and dark, the air serene, So like the soul of me, what if 't were me? A melancholy better than all mirth. Comes the sweet sadness at the retrospect, Or at the foresight of obscurer years ? Like yon slow-sailing cloudy promontory Whereon the purple iris dwells in beauty Superior to all its gaudy skirts. And, that no day of life may lack romance, The spiritual stars rise nightly, shedding down A private beam into each several heart. Daily the bending skies solicit man. The seasons chariot him from this exile. The rainbow hours bedeck his glowing chair, The storm-winds urge the heavy weeks along, Suns haste to set, that so remoter lights Beckon the wanderer to his vaster home. With a vermilion pencil mark the day When of our little fleet three cruising skiffs Entering Big Tupper, bound for the foaming Falls Of loud Bog River, suddenly confront Two of our mates returning with swift oars, One held a printed journal waving high. Caught from a late-arriving traveler, Big with great news, and shouting the report For which the world had waited, now firm fact. Of a wire-cable laid beneath the sea, And landed on our coast, and pulsating With ductile fire. Loud, exulting cries From boat to boat, and to the echoes round. Greet the glad miracle. Thought's new-found path Shall supplement henceforth all trodden ways, Match God's equator with a zone of art, And lift man's public action to a height Worthy the enormous cloud of witnesses, 278 APPENDICES When linked hemispheres attest his deed. We have few moments in the longest life Of such delight and wonder as there grew, — Nor yet unsuited to that solitude : A burst of joy, as if we told the fact To ears intelligent; as if gray rock And cedar grove and cliff and lake should know This feat of wit, this triumph of mankind ; As if we men were talking in a vein Of sympathy so large, that ours was theirs. And a prime end of the most subtle element Were fairlj^ reached at last. Wake, echoing caves! Bend nearer, faint day-moon ! You thundertops, Let them hear well ! 't is theirs as much as ours. A spasm throbbing through the pedestals Of Alp and Andes, isle and continent, Urging astonished chaos with a thrill To be a brain, or serve the brain of man. The lightning has run masterless too long ; He must to school and learn his verb and noun And teach his nimbleness to earn his wage, Spelling with guided tongue man's messages Shot through the weltering pit of the salt sea. And yet I marked, even in the manly joy Of our great-hearted Doctor in his boat (Perchance I erred), a shade of discontent; Or was it for mankind a generous shame. As of a luck not quite legitimate, Since fortune snatched from wit the lion's part? Was it a college pique of town and gown, As one within whose memory it burned That not academicians, but some lout. Found ten years since the California gold? And now, again, a hungry company Of traders, led by corporate sons of trade. Perversely borrowing from the shop the tools Of science, not from the philosophers. Had won the brightest laurel of all time. 'T was always thus, and will be ; hand and head Are ever rivals; but though this be swift, The other slow — this the Prometheus, APPENDICES 279 And that the Jove, — yet howsoever hid, It was from Jove the other stole his fire, And, without Jove, the good had never been. It is not Iroquois or cannibals, But ever the free race with front sublime, And these instructed by the wisest too. Who do the feat, and lift humanity. Let not him mourn who best entitled was. Nay, mourn not one : let him exult. Yea, plant the tree that bears best apples, plant, And water it with wine, nor watch askance Whether thy sons or strangers eat the fruit : Enough that mankind eat and are refreshed. We flee away from cities, but we bring The best of cities with us, these learned classifiers, Men knowing what they seek, armed eyes of experts. We praise the guide, we praise the forest life: But will we sacrifice our dear-bought lore Of books and arts and trained experiment, Or count the Sioux a match for Agassiz? no, not we ! W^itness the shout that shook Wild Tupper Lake ; witness the mute all-hail The joyful traveller gives, when on the verge Of craggy Indian wilderness he hears From a log cabin stream Beethoven's notes On the piano, played with master's hand. 'Well done!' he cries; 'the bear is kept at bay, The lynx, the rattlesnake, the flood, the fire; All the fierce enemies, ague, hunger, cold. This thin spruce roof, this clayed log-wall. This wild plantation will suffice to chase. Now speed the gay celerities of art, What in the desert was impossible Within four w^alls is possible again, — Culture and libraries, mysteries of skill, Traditioned fame of masters, eager strife Of keen competing youths, joined or alone To outdo each other and extort applause. Mind wakes a new-born giant from her sleep. Twirl the old wheels ! Time takes fresh start again, On for a thousand years of genius more.' 280 APPENDICES The holidays were fruitful, but must end; One August evening had a cooler breath ; Into each mind intruding duties crept; Under the cinders burned the tires of home; Nay, letters found us in our paradise: So in the gladness of the new event We struck our camp and left the happy hills. The fortunate star that rose on us sank not; The prodigal sunshine rested on the land, The rivers gambolled onward to the sea, And Nature, the inscrutable and mute. Permitted on her infinite repose Almost a smile to steal to cheer her sons, As if one riddle of the Sphinx were guessed.^ APPENDIX D EDITORIAL FROM "NEW YORK TIMES" The following Editorial article from the "New York Times" of August 9th, 1864, about the time of the commencement of the Adirondack Company's Rail- KOAn, represents the character of the so-called Wilderness from a different point of view, and may be of interest to such as have not been familiar with its remark- able features: — ADIRONDACK Not the least important of the advantages offered for residence by our Atlantic cities, is their proximity to the most charming natural retreats, to which we can easily escape during the intervals of business, and where we can replenish our fountains of vitality, exhausted by the feverish drain of over-effort. Ranges of mountains hover jealously near our coasts, and give prolific birth to a family of the loveliest streams and lakes. Notwithstanding the enormous physical propor- tions of our continent, its infinite variety is equal to its extent ; and 1 Those who wish a running commentary on the poem, pointing out little dis- crepancies of detail, but enlarging fondly on its Greek-like beauty of conception and execution, will find it in the essay on "The Philosophers' Camp," in Still- man's The Old Rome and Xetc. See Chap. XVJ. A late aftermath of "Camp Maple" came in the publication, in 1913, of volume IX of Emerson's Journals. It contains a few jottings made at "FoUansbee'a Pond," but nothing that adds to the knowledge we have. There are notes of the trees and the fish and the charm of the place — of tree-climbing, by Lowell, after an osprey — of a trip down the Raquette to Big Tupper — and that is all. APPENDICES 281 the universal presence of the railway makes it easy in a few hours to relieve any tedium of sameness in any section, by flight to another of totally different character and aspect. Especially is this practicable in New York. Within an easy day's ride of our great city, as steam teaches us to measure distance, is a tract of country fitted to make a Central Park for the world. The jaded merchant, or financier, or literateur, or politician, feeling ex- cited within him again the old passion for nature (which is never permitted entirely to die out), and longing for the inspiration of physical exercise, and pure air, and grand scenery, has only to take an early morning train, in order, if he chooses, to sleep the same night in the shadow of kingly hills, and waken with his memory filled with pleasant dreams, woven from the ceaseless music of mountain streams. To people in general, Adirt)ndack is still a realm of mystery. Al- though the waters of the Hudson, which to-day mingle with those of the ocean in our harbor, yesterday rippled over its rocks, and though on all sides of it have grown up villages, and have been created busy thoroughfares, yet so little has this "wonderful wilderness" been pene- trated by enterprise or art, that our community is practically ignorant of its enormous capacities, both for the imparting of pleasure and the increase of wealth. It is true that the desultory notes of a few summer tourists have given us a vague idea of its character. We know it as a region of hills and valleys and lakes; we believe it to abound in rocks and riMilets, and have an ill-defined notion that it contains mines of iron. But as yet, we have never been able to understand that it embraces a variety of mountain scenery, unsurpassed, if even equaled, by any region of similar size in the world ; that its lakes count by hundreds, fed by cool springs, and connected mainly by watery threads, which make them a network such as Switzerland might strive in vain to match ; and that it affords facilities for hunting and fishing, which our democratic sovereign-citizen could not afford to exchange for the pre- serves of the mightiest crowned monarch of Christendom. And still less do we understand that it abounds in mines which the famous iron mountains of Missouri cannot themselves equal for quality and ease of working; and that its resources of timber and lumber are so great, that, once made easily accessible, their supply would regulate the prices of those articles in our market. And this access is what we are now going to secure. The gay denizens of Saratoga, this season, are excited by an occasional glimpse of a railroad grade running north from that town toward the Upper Hudson, and aiming directly at the heart of the Wilderness. A thou- 282 APPENDICES sand men are now cutting down and filling up and blasting and bridging **on this line;" and before Winter, twenty to thirty miles of the distance will daily be measured by the locomotive. The Adi- rondack Company, improving one of the privileges of their charter, and in order to develop the wealth of their enormous possessions in that region, are building a railway, the first object of which is to reach their mines and forests, and its ultimate one, to strike the St. Lawrence with its branches at different points, so as to draw into its channel the bulk of the travel and transportation between our seaboard and Central Canada. The fact that this work is prosecuted under the direct supervision of Thomas C. Durant, Esq., one of the principal stockholders of the Company, and one of the ablest railway men of the country, is a sufficient guarantee for its rapid progress; and with its completion, the Adirondack region will become a suburb of New York. The furnaces of our capitalists will line its valleys and create new fortunes to swell the aggregate of our wealth, while the hunting-lodges of our citizens will adorn its more remote mountain sides and the wooded islands of its delightful lakes. It will become, to our whole community, on an ample scale, what Central Park is on a limited one. We shall sleep tonight on one of the magnificent steamers of the People's Line, ride a few cool hours in the morning by rail, and, if we choose, spend the afternoon in a solitude almost as complete as when the "Deerslaj^er" stalked his game in its fastnesses, and unconsciously founded a school of romance equally true to senti- ment with that of feudal ages. And here we venture a suggestion to those of our citizens who desire to advance civilization by combining taste with luxury in their ex- penditures. Imitating the good example of one of their number, who, upon the eastern slopes of Orange ]\Iountain has created a paradise, of which it is difficult to say whether its homes or its pleasure-grounds are more admirable, let them form combinations, and, seizing upon the choicest of the Adirondack Mountains, before they are despoiled of their forests, make of them grand parks, owned in common, and thinly dotted with hunting seats, where, at little cost, they can enjoy equal amplitude and privacy of sporting, riding and driving, when- ever they are able, for a few days or weeks, to seek the country in pur- suit of health or pleasure. In spite of all the din and dust of fur- naces and foundries, the Adirondacks, thus husbanded, will furnish abundant seclusion for all time to come: and will admirably realize the true union which should always exist between utility and enjoyment.^ 1 The above editorial is reprinted from an old advertising pamphlet issued at the time of the building of the Adirondack Railroad. APPENDICES 283 APPENDIX E LIST OF HIGHEST ADIRONDACK PEAKS 1- ^^a^^y ' 5,344 feet 2. Mclntyre 5 2oi feet 3. Haystack 4 918 feet 4- Dix 4 9X6 fget 5- Basin 4 905 feet 6. Gray Peak 4 902 feet 7. Skylight 4^889 feet 8. Whitefaee 437I feet 9. Golden 4,753 feet 10. Gothic 4J44 feet 11. RedHeld 4,688 feet 12. Nipple Top 4,684 feet 13. Santanoni 4,644 feet 14. Saddle Back 4,536 feet 15. Giant 4,530 feet 16. Seward 4,384 feet 17. IMaeomb 4,371 feet 18. Ragged 4,163 feet 19. Mt. Colviu or Sabelle 4,142 feet APPENDIX F HEIGHTS OF THE LESSER ADIRONDACK PEAKS (Alphabetically Arranged) Name County Feet Ampersand Franklin 3,432 Baldface Hamilton 3,903 Bartlett Essex 3,715 Blue Mountain Hamilton 3,762 Boot Bay Franklin 2,531 Boreas Essex 3,726 Burnt Mountain Hamilton 2,121 iMt. Marcy is the highest mountain in the State. All of the above peaks, with one exception, lie in the central ].art of Essev County. The exception is Mt. Seward, lying in the southeastern part of Franklin County. 284 APPENDICES Name County Feet Camel's Hump Essex 3,548 DeBar Franklin 3,011 Devil's Ear Hamilton 3,903 Hoffman Essex 3,727 Holmes' Hill Hamilton 2,121 Hopkins ' Peak Essex 3,136 Hurricane Essex 3,763 Indian Face ( Ausable Pond) . . Essex 2,536 Indian Pass (Top of Wallfaee precipice) Essex 3,870 Jerseyfield Herkimer 3,323 Long Pond Mountain Hamilton 2,268 McKenzie Essex 3,789 Mt. Andrew Essex 3,216 Noon Mark Essex 3,558 Owl's Head Hamilton 2,825 Panther Gorge Essex 3,353 Poke-A-Moonshine Essex 2,171 Seymour Franklin 3,928 Snowy Mountain Hamilton 3,903 Speculator Hamilton 3,041 St. Regis Franklin 2,888 WaUface . , Essex 3,893 APPENDIX G TREES OF THE ADIRONDACKS ^ There is little or no peculiarity in the dendrological features of the Great Forest, the species and varieties of trees being the common ones which may be seen in all parts of the State. By far the greater part of the forest is of deciduous growth, about twenty per cent only of the trees being conifers. Of the deciduous trees the most common species are the maple, birch, and beech, with their varieties. Next, and in order of quantity, come the poplar, ash, eherrj'-, ironwood, basswood, willow, elm, red oak, butternut, sycamore, and chestnut. The smaller species of trees or shrubs are represented by the mountain ash, alder, mountain maple (Acer spieatum), striped dogwood (Acer Pennsyl- vanicum), shad-bush, sumach, elder, and "witch-hopple" (Viburnum 1 From Forest Commission Report 1893, vol. 1. APPENDICES 285 lantanoides). The chestnut is very rare throughout the Adirondack Plateau; although growing close to the foot hills, it disappears on the higher altitudes of the Great Forest. For the same reason the oaks are rare and stunted. Among the conifers are found the spruce, hemlock, balsam, tama- rack, and white cedar. Some white pine of original growth remains, but this noble tree, which once grew thickly throughout the whole legion, is now limited to a few small patches of inferior quality. LIST OF TREES Basswood or Linden Tilia Americana Sugar Maple or Hard Maple Acer saccharinum Black Sugar Maple Acer nigrum ( Var.) Soft or Red Maple Acer rubrum White or Silver Maple Acer dasycarpum Ash-leaved Maple or Box Elder Negundo aceroides Black or Wild Cherry Prunus serotina White Ash Fraxinus Americana Black Ash Fraxinus sambucifolia White or American Elm Ulmus Americana Black or Yellow-bark Oak Quercus tinctoria Red Oak Quercus rubra Red Beech Fagus ferruginea Ironwood or Hop Hornbeam Ostrya Virginica Sweet or Black Birch Betula lenta Yellow or Gray Birch Betula lutea White Birch Betula populifolia Canoe or Paper Birch Betula papyracea Yellow Willow Salix vitellina (Var.) Black W'illow Salix nigra Quaking Aspen or Small Poplar Populus tremuloides American Aspen or Poplar Populus grandidentata Cottonwood or Necklace Poplar Populus monilifera Balsam Poplar or Tacamahac Populus balsamifera Balm of Gilead Populus candicans (Var.) SMALL TREES Stag-horn Sumach Rhus typhina Wild Red or Pin Cherry Prunus Penusylvanica Black Thorn Crataegus punctata Mountain Ash Pyrus Americana Flowering Dog^vood Cornus florida CONIFERS White Pine Pinus Strobus Pitch Pine Pinus rigida Yellow Pine Pinus mitis Scrub Pine Pinus Banksiana 286, APPENDICES Red or Norway Pine Pinus resinosa Black Spruce Abies nigra White Spruce Abiea alba Balsam Abies balsamea Hemlock Tsuga Canadensis Tamarack or Hackmatack or Larch. . . . Larix Americana Arbor Vitae Thuja occidentalis Red Cedar .... Juniperus Virginiana APPENDIX H A LIST OF ADlPvONDACK MAMMALS Taken from "Mammals of the Adirondacks" by Clinton Hart Merriam 1 Panther Felis concolor 2 Lynx Lynx Canadensis 3 Bay Lynx Lynx Rufus 4 Wolf Canis lupus 5 Fox Vulpes vulgaris Pennsylvanicus 6 Wolverine Gulo luscus 7 Fisher Mustela Pennanti 8 Marten Mustela Americana 9 Least Weasel Putoris erminea 10 Mink Putoris vison 1 1 Skunk Mephitis mephitica 12 Otter Lutra Canadensis 1 3 Raccoon Proycon Lutor 14 Black Bear Ursus Americanus 15 Harbor Seal Phoca vitulina 16 Virginia Deer Cariacus Virginianus 17 Moose Alee Americanus 18 Elk or Wapiti Cervus Canadensis 10 Fossil Horse Equus major 20 Fossil Elephant Elephas Americanus 21 Star-nosed Mole Condylura cristata 22 Shrew Mole Scalops aquaticus 23 Brewer's Mole Scapanus Americanus 24 Short-tailed Shrew Blarina brevicauda 2."> Cooper's Shrew Sorex Cooperi 2G Broad-nosed Shrew Sorex platyrhinus 27 Hoary Bat Atalapha cinerea 28 Red Bat Atalapha Noveboracensis 29 Dusky Bat Vesperugo serotinus fuscus 30 Silver-haired Bat Vesperugo noctivagans 31 Little Brown Bat Vespertilio subulatus 32 Flying Sqirirrel Sciuropterus volucella 33 Xorthern Flying Squirrel Sciuropterus volucella HudsoniuB 34 Red Squirrel Sciurus Hudsonius APPENDICES 287 35 Gray Squirrel Sciurus Carolinensis lelicotis 36 Fox Squirrel Sciurua iiiger cinereus 37 Ground Squirrel Tamias striatus 38 VVoodchuck Arctomys monax 39 American Beaver Castor fiber Canadensis 40 Rat Mus decumanus , 41 House Mouse Mus musculus 42 White-footed Mouse Hosperonys leucopus 43 Red-backed Mouse Evotomys rutilus Gapperi 44 Meaxiow Mouse Arvicola riparius 45 Muskrat Fiber zibethicus 46 Jumping Mouse Zapus Hudsonius 47 Canada Porcupine Erethizon dorsatus 48 Great Northern Hare Lepus Americanus 49 Southern Varying Hare Lepus Americanus Virgianu* 50 Gray Rabbit Lepus sylvaticua APPENDIX I WEATHER DATA— LAKE PLACID CLUB— 1909-1919 (Compiled by Henry Van Hoevenberg and T. Morris Longstreth) Year Month Mean Maximum Minimum Precipitation Snowfall 1909 January 16.3 46 —26 5.95 28 inches February 16.7 46 —20 2.19 16 March 21.11 50 —12 4.85 43 April 35.5 60 6 5.49 16 May 48.5 72 27 4.74 4 June 51.4 76 30 3.25 July 59.30 81 39 5.20 August 59.19 84 30 2.67 September 52.81 85 29 1.92 October 37.77 76 15 2.53 1 November 33.83 60 6 1.65 10 December 15.98 36 —16 3.67 9 1910 January 18.5 44 —22 4.42 36 February 11.2 41 —26 6.57 51 March 32.8 65 1 3.46 5 April 41.79 69 13 2.63 11 May 47.40 71 21 4.47 5 128 288 APPENDICES Year Month Mean Maximum Minimum Precipitation Snowfall 1910 June 55.5 79 26 3.17 July 63.62 88 39 2.78 August 57.22 76 34 4.65 September 52.26 74 28 2.78 October 42.99 73 15 3.34 13 November 26.38 49 3 4.91 40 December 10.1 32 —18 4.44 36 1911 January 14.35 46 —20 5.54 30 February 10.65 50 —24 5.09 38 March 18.70 52 —23 4.61 35 April 31.52 70 —10 1.95 7 May 53.40 86 20 3.19 9 208 June 55.29 84 34 3.87 July 66.10 92 42 3.01 August 62.25 89 36 3.04 September 51.81 73 23 2.29 1 October 43.83 64 15 3.44 12 November 26.20 57 — 2 3.59 31 December 23.87 53 — 6 3.12 17 1912 January 6.58 37 —33 3.70 40 February 10.62 40 —33 2.85 30 March 19.65 55 —22 2.42 14 April 33.91 68 6 3.33 28 May 45.96 79 23 6.82 3 176 June 51.5 78 26 1.39 July 59.74 88 32 6.10 August 51.4 76 30 4.19 September 50. 76 26 6.01 1 October 42.3 68 21 2.59 1 November 30.2 55 — 1 4.83 19 December 21.4 51 —10 4.02 30 1913 January 21,3 46 —11 7.36 21 February 8.2 52 —22 2.27 20 March 27. 58 -16 7.90 13 APPENDICES 289 Vear Month 1913 April ]\lay 1914 1915 Mean 36.6 44.7 Maximum 78 78 June 58.8 July 62.9 August 61.5 September 57.4 October 45,8 November 29.5 December 14. Minimum Precipitation 10 4.46 20 1.85 85 84 82 84 70 60 41 37 42 31 29 20 6 —20 4.08 7.09 3.64 1.81 2.23 3.83 6.40 Snowfall 18 1 124 June 53.7 82 27 2.22 July 57.5 88 33 3.75 August 56.4 80 34 1.57 September 49. 82 20 2.69 October 43.1 75 14 4.88 10 November 31.7 60 10 4.08 13 December 20.6 41 — 9 3.98 32 January 11.1 43 —37 3.50 27 February 6.3 41 —36 1.91 19 March 23.4 55 —19 4.28 37 April 29.4 68 — 1 5.14 23 May 48.8 79 22 .86 June 52.8 78 29 2.81 i 161J July 58.4 83 31 3.60 August 58.4 85 31 4.10 September 51. 80 18 2.40 October 45.1 74 12 1.15 8 November 25.5 55 — 7 3.94 32 December 13.6 49 —33 3.80 30 January 14.2 41 —32 3.88 23 February 16.7 45 —12 4.63 37 March 15.4 38 —13 2.48 26 April 35. 70 3 3.18 3 May 43.4 73 26 2.05 i 159^ 1 T 15 60 290 APPENDICES Year Month Mean Maximum Minimum Precipitation Snowfall 1916 January 17.2 51 —19 4.22 31 February 6.8 36 —32 3.19 29 March 15. 63 —22 2.68 30 April 40.3 66 18 2.10 6 May 49.4 77 26 4.13 172^ June 56.9 79 32 3.00 July 67.6 89 40 6.89 August 64.8 89 38 2.48 September 54.7 80 30 3.22 i October 43. 70 20 2.01 1 November 29.1 62 — 4 3.01 12 December 16.6 46 —26 3.45 36 1917 January 12.0 38 -^2 5.63 49 February 8.4 40 —30 3.49 32 March 23.2 53 —10 4.94 51 April 34.2 65 8 4.39 22 May 39.0 76 26 4.13 16 219^ June 55. 81 30 2.88 July 61.4 83 42 .65 August 63.1 75 42 2.15 September 52.2 66 26 3.99 October 42.8 60 19 4.54 2 November 24.4 48 — 7 .67 8 December 12.2 40 —39 1.61 19 1918 January 5.0 40 —30 2.69 30 February 11.1 53 —32 2.73 10 March ' 24.9 65 —15 1.2 17 April 37.3 74 11 1.28 18 104 May 56.8 87 22 2.60 June 54.4 84 25 2.40 July 62.5 90 36 5.03 August 60.1 91 29 5.92 September 49.5 77 24 4.85 T October 45.1 71 20 6.87 i APPENDICES 291 Year Month Mean Maximum Minimum Precipitation Snowfall 1918 November 35.4 64 4 2.53 6 December 22.4 55 — 6 1.91 14 1919 January 20.4 51 —20 1.22 15 February 18. 48 —13 2.24 19 March 28. 65 -10 4.05 41 April 36.2 65 5 2.40 2 97i May 51.5 79 22 4.08 June no records July no records August no records September 55.8 77 25 2.64 October 46.1 75 20 4.02 November 30.3 58 6 1.29 16 December .... 45 —26 20 1920 January 4. 38 —31 1.68 27 February 12.5 45 —27 2.45 27 i\Iarch 13.4 45 —27 2.76 28 April 33.2 61 9 4.04 11 129 APPENDIX J LIST OF ADIRONDACK BIRDS Compiled by Robert H. Coleman At the request of the author, Mr. Robert H. Coleman, of Saranac Lake, has kindly taken the time and trouble to prepare the following list of Adirondack birds. It includes only those commonly and readily found in the mountains proper, and does not cover the foothills lead- ing to them. The record is made up from Mr. Coleman's personal observations and records during a residence of twenty-five years in the region. Works on ornithology have been consulted of course, and especially Dr. C. Hart Merriam's "Preliminary List of Birds Ascer- tained to Occur in the Adirondack Region, Northeastern New York." Mr. Coleman's list does not pretend to be complete, but merely to supply the names of birds easily found and recognized. Accidental 292 APPENDICES and occasional visitors to this region are not included, nor those birds which are too rare to be easily discovered. The nomenclature followed is that adopted by "Sir. Robert Ridgway and by Baird, Brewer & Ridg- way in their "Birds of North America." BIRDS OF THE ADIRONDACKS, COMMONLY AND READILY FOUND SUMMER RESIDENTS Wood Warblers 1. ]\Iyrtle warbler Dendroica coronata 2. ]\Iagnolia warbler Dendroica maculosa 3. Chestnut-sided warbler Dendroica pennsylvanica 4. Black-throated green warbler Dendroica virens 5. Summer yellow-bird warbler Dendroica astiva 6. Blackburnian warbler Dendroica hlackhurnice 7. Palm or Redpoll warbler Dendroica palmariim 8. Black-throated blue warbler Dendroica ccsrulescens 9. Black-Poll warbler Dendroica striata 10. Nashville warbler Ilelminthrophaga ruficapilla 11. Orange-crowned warbler (Oven) . .Seiurus aurocapillus 12. Parula warbler Perula americana 13. Cape May warbler Peri^soglossa tagrina 14. Black-and-white creeping warbler. il/niof/Z^a vana 15. Redstart warbler Satophaga ruticilla 16. Maiyland yellow-throat warbler. . . Oeothlyhis trichas 17. Black-capped Titmouse wsiThler. . .Pariisatricapillus 18. Water Thrush warbler Seius Novehoracensis 19. Pine warbler Chrysomitris pinus 20. Tennessee warbler Ilelminthrophaga peregrina 21. Bay-breasted warbler Dendroica castanea. 22. Canadian warbler Myiodioctes canadensis 23. Mourning warbler Gcothlypis Philadelphia 24. Cerulean warbler Dendroica ccrrulea 25. Blue-winged yellow warbler Flelminthophaga pinus 26. Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens ViREOS 1, Red-eyed vireo Vireosylvia olivacens 2, White-eyed vireo Vireo novchoracencis 3, Blue-headed vireo Lanivireo solitarius 4, Warbling vireo Vireosylvia gilva 5, Yellow-throated vireo Lanivireo flavifrons APPENDICES 293 Thrushes 1. Robin Turdus migraiorius 2. Catbird, rare Galeoscoptes caroUnensis 3. Brown thrush, rare Harporhynchus rufus 4. Wilson 's thrush Turdus fusccscehs 5. Water thrush Turdus novcboracensis 6. Wood thrush Turdus mustelinus 7. Hermit thrush Turdus solitarius 8. Golden-crowned thrush Seiurus aurocapillus 9. Olive-backed thrush EylocicJda ustulata swainsoni Woodpeckers 1. Pileated woodpecker Bylotomus pileatus 2. Yellom hammer woodpecker Colaptes auratus 3. Yellow-bellied woodpecker .Sphyrapicus varius 4. Hairy woodpecker Picus villosus 5. Downy woodpecker Picus puhescens 6. Arctic three-toed woodpecker Picoidcs arcticus 7. Red-cockaded woodpecker Pmis horcalis 8. White-bellied nuthatch Sitta caroUnensis 9. Brown-bellied nuthatch Sitta canadensis 10. Brown creeper Certhia familiaris rufa Miscellaneous 1. Crow Corvus americanus 2. Raven Corvus corax carnivorus 3. Blue jay Cyanocitta cristata 4. Canada jay Perisoreus canadensis 5. Grackle Quiscahis purpureus 6. Loggerhead shrike CoUuria horcalis 7. Night hawk Chordeiks popcUie 8. Whippoorwill A^itrostomus vociferus 9. Black-bill coocoo Coccyzus erythrophthalmus 10. Red-shouldered black B Agelacus phoeniceus 11. Cow bunting Molothrus ater 12. Partridge Bonasa umbellus 13. Rusty blackbird Scholecophagus ferrugineus 14. Canada grouse Canace canadensis 15. Hummingbird (Red throat) Trochilus coluhris 16. Cedar bird Ampelis Cedrorum 17. Scarlet tanager Pyranga rubra 18. Shore lark Eremosphila alpestris 19. Baltimore oriole Pinicola enucleator 294 APPENDICES 20. Blue bird Sialia sialis 21. Pine grosbeak Hedymeles Ivdovicianus Finches 1. Song sparrow Melospiza melodia 2. English house sparrow Pyrgita domestica 3. Chipping sparrow Spizella socialis 4. Field sparrow Spizella spusilla 5. Vesper sparrow Poocetes graniineus 6. Swamp sparrow Melospiza palustris 7. White-throated sparrow Zonotrichia ahicollis 8. Pine finch or siskin Fragilla pinus 9. Gold finch Chrysonietris tristis 10. Purple finch Carpodacus purpureus 11. Indigo bird Cyanospiza cyanea 12. Red wing cross bill Loxia curvirostra 13. White wing cross bill Loxia leucoptera 14. Snow bird or junco J unco hyemalis 15. Chewink Pipilo erytkrophthalmus 16. Grass finch Pooecctes gramineus 17. Lincoln's finch Melospiza lincolni Flycatchers 1. Olive-sided flj^catcher Contopus horealis 2. Great-crested flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus 3. Tyrant flycatcher Tyrannus carolinensis 4. Least flycatcher Empidonax minimus 5. Yellow-bellied flj'catcher Empidonax flaviventris 6. Common peewee flycatcher Sayornis fuscus 7. Wood peewee flycatcher Contopus virens Wrens 1, House wren Troglodytes aedon 2, Winter wren Troglodytes parvalus 3, Golden-crowned kinglet Regulus satrapa 4, Ruby-crowned kinglet Regulus calendura 5, Black-capped chickadee Parus atricapillus Swallows 1, Chimney swallow Chaetura Pelagica 2, Barn swallow Ilirundo korreorum 3. Bank swallow Cotyle riparia 4. White-bellied swallow Hirundo hicolor APPENDICES 295 5. Purple martin Progne siihis 6. Cliff swallow Petmchelidon lunifrons Water Birds — MiscELLiVNEous 1. Great blue heron Ardea herodias 2. Belted kingfisher Ceryle alcion 3. Green heron Butoridcs virescens 4. Small white gull — herring gull . . . Larus argentatus 5. Woodcock Philohela minor 6. Sand piper, spotted Tringoides macularius 7. Yellow leg snipe Totanus flavipes 8. Bittern Botaurus lentiginosus 9. Killdeer plover Oxyechus vociferus 10, Sora rail Porzana Carolina Water Birds — Ducks 1. Loon, rare Urinator immer 2. Blue winged teal, rare Querquedula discors 3. Green winged teal, rare Nettion carolinensis 4. Wood duck Aix sponsa 5. Red head duck Athyia omericana 6. Golden eyed duck Clangula glaucion 7. Butter ball Clangula albeola 8. Black mallard AnOrS ohscura 9. Saw bill, migrations Merges serrator 10. Coot, rare Fulica americana 11. Small diver Podilymhus podiceps 12. Wooded merganser Lophodijtes cucullatus 13. Sheldrake Mergus merganser Hawks, Falcons, Eagles 1. Bald headed eagle, rare Faico leucocepTialus 2. Golden eagle, rare Aquila chrysaetus 3. March hawk Circus Cijanesis 4. Goshawk Astur palumharius 5. American osprey Pandeum halimtus 6. Red tailed hawk Buteo borealis 7. Red shouldered hawk Buteo lineatus 8. Sparrow hawk Falco sparverius 9. Sharp shinned hawk Falco velox 10. Fish hawk Pandion halioEius carolinensis 11. Cooper's hawk Accipiter fuscus 12. Broad winged hawk Buteo pennsylvanicus 296 APPENDICES Owls 1. White owl, rare Strix vyctea 2. Great horned owl Buvo virginianus 3. Barred owl Strix nehulosa 4. Great grey owl, rare Syrium cinereum 5. Long eared owl Otus vulgaris 6. Hawk owl Surnia ulula hvdsonia 7. Saw whet owl Nyctale acadica 8. Sparrow owl Falco apaverius 9. Little owl, screech owl Scops asio Well known Winter visitors, not with us in summer 1. Snow bunting Plecthrophanes nivalis 2. Red breasted grosbeak Hedymeles ludovicianus 3. Evening grosbeak Ilesperipho'na vespertina APPENDIX K SOME "FIRSTS" THE FIRST ELECTRIC LIGHTS The first electric lights in the mountains were put into the Prospect House on Blue Mountain Lake, when it was built in 1881. See Chap- ter XXXVI. THE FIRST AUTOMOBILE The first automobile came into these woods in July, 1902. It be- longed to Mr. and Mrs. Herbert J. Sackett, of Buffalo, who were taking their honeymoon trip in this decidedly novel manner. They spent a night at the Ampersand Hotel on Lower Saranac Lake, and the following morning drove to Paul Smith's, where the aged pioneer of the ox-mobile greeted the youthful pioneers of the horse- less carriage. Their passage was long remembered. In Saranac Lake village and along the highway the puflSng and pounding motor spread terror before it and left wreckage and anathema behind it. In spite of many runaways, however, there was no really serious accident. THE FIRST AEROPLANE Exactly ten years after the first automobile brought wonder and consternation to the woods, the second miracle of locomotion swooped down upon them. On October 3, 1912, George A. Gray of Boston, in a Burgess-Wright APPENDICES 297 bi-plane, sailed over the crest of Whiteface and landed at dusk in a wheat field near Fletcher's Farm, northeast of the village of Bloom- ingdale. He had left Malone about an hour before, and, fearing the treacherous air currents of the mountains, had made the entire flight at an altitude of over 6,000 feet. The news of his arrival spread quickly, and the following morning hundreds of automobiles visited the spot. In one of them was old Paul Smith, who had come to gaze upon this last word — this fourth dimension — in the cycle of transportation which his long life had spanned — oxen, horses, autos, airplanes. He even asked for a ride in the airship, but the wind was blowing so hard that the request had to be denied. The next day the aviator took his bi-plane to Saranac Lake, land- ing on the race-track just outside the village. He made this his headquarters for several days, giving exhibitions, carrying packages to surrounding camps, and taking passengers on short flights. Among the adventurous was Miss Edith M. Stearns, a young lady from Vir- ginia, who was staying at Fletcher's Farm. She made a flight from there to Saranac Lake, and thereby established the record of being the first woman to aviate the Adirondacks. The trip proved so pleas- ant that a year later she became the wife of the aviator. I BIBLIOGRAPHY FOREWORD The mass of scattered literature which merely touches the Adiron- dacks incidentally is so large, and much of it is of so little value, that a set policy of elimination has been adopted in compiling this bibli- ography. The effort has been to make it workably adequate for the average reader, rather than tenuously and technically complete for the bibliophile. The following classes of publication have therefore been omitted : Annual Reports or Year Books of clubs and associations Folders or booklets for advertising purposes. State Gazetteers, State guide-books, geographies. Fiction. Newspaper articles. Collections of scenic views. The bibliography is divided into two parts. The first part repre- sents the author's collection of Adirondackana, gathered together for use in this history. It is listed separately as the Donaldson Collection,^ because it is destined to pass under that title to a per- manent home in the Saranac Lake Free Library. It contains all of the very few books devoted exclusively to the Adirondacks, and the most important of the many that mention the region incidentally. Of pamphlets it contains the rarest known to exist. Of innumerable magazine articles it contains those having the greatest historical in- terest. BIBLIOGRAPHY— DONALDSON COLLECTION STATE REPORTS (Details concerning all these Reports will be found in the Legislative Chapter.) CoLViN Reports First Topographical 1S72 Adirondack and Land Survey ISSfi Second Topographical 1873-74 Adirondack and Land Survey 1801 Third Topographical 1875-70 Adirondack and Land Survey. . . 1804 Adirondack and Land Survey. ... 1884 Adirondack and Land Survey. ... 1806 1 So far as I am aware there is only one other as complete collection in exis^t- ence. This belongs to Mr. Frederick H. Comstock of New York, who has for many years had a summer home in Keene Valley. 299 300 BIBLIOGRAPHY ' Forest Preserve Board Reports Fisheries, Game, and Forest First Annual 1897 Commission Second Annual 1898 1895 Quarto. Colored Third Annual 1899 1896 " Plates. Fourth Annual 1900 1897 189S (These Reports deal entirely with 1899 " " land transactions and have no general interest. They have become very Forest, Fish, and Game Commission rare.) 1900 Quarto. Colored 1901 " Plates. 1902—1903 Forest Commission Reports 1904— 1905— 190G " " 1885 1907—1908—1909 1886 1910 Octavo. 1887 1 1888 Conseevatton Commission 1889 2 1911 1890 (Fifth Report) 1912 1891 1913 1892 1914 1893 (2 vols.) 1915 Paper-bound 1894 1910 pamphlet. 1917 1918 1919 1920 BOOKS OF TRAVEL Date of (Chronologically arranged) publica- tion : 1839 Hoffman, Charles Fenno. Wild Scenes in the Forest and Prairie. London : Richard Bentley. 2 vols. Pp. 576. The first 122 pages describe a trip to 'the sources of the Hudson." Jolin Cheney and Harvey Holt are tlie guides. An American edition of tliis book in one volume appeared in 1843. New York: Colyer. 1845 Todd, John. Lonp: Lake. Pittsfield : E. P. Little. Pp. 100. Tliis is a rare item. Particular reference is made to it in Chapter XXXIV. Contains much of historical value. 1850 Headley, J. T. Letters from the Backwoods and the Adirondae. New York: John S. Taylor. Pp. 105. This is also quoted in Chapter XXXIV. Much narrative description, but little of historical value. 1 This is merely a pamphlet of fourteen pages, consisting of recommendations as to changes in the law. It is very rare. 2 This consists of three printed pages only, stating that a supplemental report will be published. This does not appear to have been done, however, as the Re- port for 1890 is designated as the "Fifth." BIBLIOGRAPHY 301 1853 Headley, J. T. The Adirondack, or Life in tlio Woods. New York: Baker and Scribner. Illus, Pp. 288. This is the best-known and most widely road of the early travel hooka. It is full of long, rather sentimental descriptions and himting-stoiies. but contains little of historical value. 1855 Hammond, S. H. and L. W. Mansfield. Country Margins and Rambles of a Journalist. New York: J. C. Derby. Pp. 35C. Pp. 293-329 devoted to the Adirondacks. A rambling story, without historical value. 1856 Lanman, Charles. Adventures in the Wilds of America (and Brit- ish American Provinces). Philadelphia: John W. Moore. 2 vols. Pp. 1031. Pages 211-237 are devoted to the Adirondacks and are full of interest. They treat of Schroon Lake, an ascent of Tahawus, and John Cheney. 1856 Murray, Amelia Matilda. Letters from the United States, Cuba and Canada. By Hon. Amelia Murray. New York: Putnam's. Pp. 402. 2 vols, in one. Letter XXIX, pp. 307-387, describes a trip through the Adirondacks and contains much of historical interest. The author was lady-in-wait- ing to Queen Victoria and the first lady of record to make a journey across the Wilderness. See Chap. XIII, under "Otis Arnold," 1857 Hammond, S. H. Wild Northern Scenes, or Sporting Adventures with the Rifle and the Rod. New York: Derby & Jackson. Pp. 341. Little more than a string of hunting and fishing yarns with the Adiron- dacks as a background. 1860 Street, Alfred B. Woods and Waters, or the Saranacs and Racket. New York: M. Doolady. Map and 9 views. Pp. 345. The author was at one time State Librarian. His book, while full of the usual hunting stories, contains many facts of historical interest. 1864 [Author's name does not appear]. The Forest Arcadia of Northern New York (Embracing A View of Its Mineral, AgTicultural, and Timber Resources). Boston: T. 0. H. P. Burnham, and New York: Oliver S. Felt. Pp. 224. Camp stories interspersed with philosophical reflection, but falling rather short of the promise in its title. 1866 Lossing, Benson J. The Hudson, from the Wilderness to the Sea. (Illustrated by 306 engravings on wood, from drawings by the author). New York: Virtue & Yorston. Pp. 464. Pp. 1-58 are devoted to the Adirondacks. This follows the Hudson "from its birth among the mountains to its marriage with the ocean." It is a scholarly work, brimming at every page with historical interest. 302 BIBLIOGRAPHY 1869 Street, Alfred B. The Indian Pass. New York: Hurd & Houghton. Pp. 201. The Introduction is packed full of valuable information. The descrip- tion of the pass is full of genuine enthusiasm, but so long as to be- come tenuous. 1869 Murray, William H. H. Adventures in the Wilderness, or Camp Life in the Adirondacks. Boston: Fields, Osgood & Co. lUus. Pp. 236. This most widely read and notorious of Adirondack books is fully dis- eased in Chap. XVII. 1872 Smith, H. Perry. The Modem Babes in the Wood, or Sumraerings in the Wilderness. Hartford: Columbian Book Co. lUus. Pp. 237. Hunting and fishing stories in lighter vein, but with a fair sprinkling of historical interest. The title-page says: "To whch is added a re- liable and descriptive Guide to the Adirondacks, by E. R. Wallace," but I have never been able to find a copy of the two books in one volume. 1873 Halloek, Charles. The Fishing Tourist. New York : Harper & Bros. Pp. 239. Only a few pages, 67-70, are devoted to the Adirondacks, and they con- tain a mere guide-book description of routes and places. 1874 Prime, Samuel I. Under the Trees. New York: Harper & Bros. Pp. 313. Pages 0'2-l.']7 are devoted to the Adirondacks. They mention only the better-known places and have no special interest. 1880 Lundy, J. P. [No name on the title-page, but initials are signed to the dedication.] Saranac Exiles. Philadelj)hia : Author's unpub- lished edition for private circulation. Paper-bound. Pp. 329. Tliis rare and interesting book is fully discussed in Chap. XX. 1880 Northrup, A. Judd. Camps and Tramps in the Adirondacks. Syra- cuse: Davis, Bardeen & Co. Pp. 302. A running narrative of camping experiences, with very slight historical intercsit. 1881 Cook, Marc. Tlie Wilderness Cure. New York: William Wood & Co. Pp. 1.53. This was the first book of its kind to be published, and is very readable for any one interested in the curative quality of the Adirondack woods. 1893 Osborne, Edward B. Forest, Lake and Random Rhymes. Pough- keepsie: (No publisher). Illus. Pp. 182. The first 50 pages are devoted to "Letters from the Woods." They were written between 1S5C and 187L but have very slight historical interest. BIBLIOGRAPHY 303 1917 Longstretb, T. Morris. The Adu'ondacks. New York: The Century Co. IIlus. Map. Pp. 36G. A sequence of campings and trauipings most alluringly told. This book is quoted from in Chap. XXVIII. See "Lake Placid Club." LETTERS AND ESSAYS Burroughs, John. Wake-Robin. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1885. Pp. 289. "Adirondac" (Summer 1863), pp. 95-125. Chalmers, Stephen. The Penny Piper of Saranae. An Episode in Steven- son's Life. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1916. Pp.65. The Beloved Physician (Dr. E. L. Trudeau). Privately printed. 1915. Pp. 43. Emerson, Edward Waldo. The Early Years of the Saturday Club; 1855- 1870. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1918. Illus. Pp. 514. Contains sketches of all the members of Philosophers' Camp. Emerson, Ralph Waldo. Journals of Ralph Waldo Emerson. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1913. Vol. IX, pp. 159-162, Adirondacks. Poems Centenary Edition. "The Adirondacs," pp. 182-194. Stevenson, R. L. Letters of R. L. S. to His Family and Friends. Edited by Sidney Colvin. New York : Scribner's. 1907. Vol. IL Adirondacks: pp. 66-130. Stevenson, Mrs. M. I. From Saranae to the Marquesas and Beyond; Let- ters written during 1887-1888. London: Methuen & Co. 1903. Pp. 258. Adirondacks : pp. 1-43. Stillman, W. J. The Old Rome and New and Other Studies. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1898. Pp. 296. "The Philosophers' Camp," p. 2G5ff. Used in Autobiography. Van Dyke, Henry. Little Rivers. New York: Scribner's. 1904. Pp. 340. "Ampersand," pp. 67-93. Warner, Charles Dudley. Backlog Edition. Hartford: American Publish- ing Co. 1904. "In the Wilderness," Vol. VI, pp. 1-136. BIOGRAPHIES Balfour, Graham. Life of Robert Louis Stevenson. New York : Scribner's. 1901. 2 vols. Port. map. 0. Chap. XII. "The United States, 1887-1888." Adirondacks: Vol. II. pp. 30-49. Brace, Emma. [Mrs. Henry H. Donaldson.] The Life and Letters of Charles Loring Brace. New York : Scribner's. 1894. Pp. 503. Pp. 205, 223, 344, 464, Adirondack Letters. Byron-Curtiss, A. L. The Life and Adventures of Nat Foster. Utica: Thos. J. Griffiths, 1897. Pp. 286. 304 BIBLIOGRAPHY Chittenden, L. E. Personal Keminiseenees. 1840-1890. New York: Rich- mond Croscup & Co. 1893. Pp. 427. Adiroiidacks : pp. 13!)- Kit). Greenslet, Ferris. The Life of Thomas Bailey Aldrich. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. 1908. Illus. Pp. 303. Adirondacks: p. 217 ff. Jesup, Henry Griswold. Edward Jessup and His Descendants. Cambridge: John Wilson & Son. 1887. Pp. 442. "Totten & Crossfield Purchase," p. 211 ff. Knight, William. Memorials of Thomas Davidson, The Wandering Scholar. Boston: G inn & Co. 1907. Pp. 241. Glenmore School. Chaps. X, XT, pp. 55-74. Porter, Noah. A Memorial by Friends. Edited by George S. Merriam. New York: Seribner's. 1893. Pp. 306. Adirondacks: pp. 153-16G. Radford, Harry V. Adirondack Murray. New York : Broadway Publish- ing Co. 1905. Illus. Pp. 84. Richards, Geo. H. Memoir of Alexander Macomb. New York: M'Elrath, Bangs & Co. 1833. Pp. 130. Sanborn, F. B. Life and Letters of John Brown. London : Sampson Low. 1885. Pp. 632. Adirondacks: Chap. IV, pp. 90-115. Stillman, William James. Autobiography of a Journalist. Boston : Hough- ton Mifflin. 1901. 2 Vols. Adirondacks: Chaps. X, XIII, XV. Todd, John E. John Todd, The Story of His Life. New York : Harper & Bros. 1876. Pp. 528. Adirondacks: Chap. XXXIII. Simms, Jeptha R. Trappers of New York, or a Biography of Nicholas Stoner and Nathaniel Foster. Albany: J. Munsell. 1871. Pp. 287. Trudeau, E. L. An Autobiography. Philadelpliia and New York: Lea & Febiger. 1916. Illus. Pp. 322. Villard, Oswald Garrison. John Brown: a Biography Fifty Years After. Boston : Houghton Mifflin. 1911. Pp. 738. Adirondacks: p. 72 ff. HISTORIES Essex County, History of. Winslow C. Watson. Albany: J. Munsell. 1869. Pp. 504. Essex County, History of. H. P. Smith. Syracuse : D. Mason & Co. 1885. Pp. 754. . St. LawTenee and Franklin Counties, History of. Franklin B. Hough. Albany: Little & Co. 1853. Pp. 719. BIBLIOGRAPHY 305 Clinton and Franklin Counties, History of. Philadelphia: J W Lewis & Co. 1880. Illus. Pp. 508. "The Adirondacks," p. 497 S. Herkimer County, History of. Nathaniel S. Benton. Albany: J. Munsell 1856. Pp. 497. Lewis County, History- of. Franklin B. Hough. Albany : Munsell & Row- land. 1860. Pp. 319. "The Castorland," pp. 34-70. Historical Sketches of Franklin County. Frederick J. Seaver. Albany: J. B. Lyon Co. 1918. Pp. 819. Historical Sketches of Northern New York. Nathaniel Bartlett Sylvester. Troy: Wm. H. Young. 1877. Pp. 316. Champlain Valley, Pioneer History of. Winslow C. Watson. Albany: J. Munsell. 1863. Pp. 221. Pleasant Valley, A History of Elizabethtown. George Levi Brown. Eliza- bethtown : Post & Gazette Print. 1905. Pp.474. The Story of Saranac. Henry W. Raymond. New York: Grafton Press. 1909. Illus. Pp. 78. MISCELLANEOUS Geological Survey of New York, Feb. 20, 1838. Including Report of E. Emmons, Geologist of the Second District. "The Mountains of Essex," p. 240 ff. Myths and Legends of Our Own Land. Charles M. Skinner. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott. 1896. 2 vols. Adirondacks: Vol. I, pp. 80-90. Aboriginal Place Names of New York. Bulletin 108, New York State Mu- seum. Wm. M. Beauchamp. Albany: New York State Education De- partment. 1907. Pp. 279. William's Quarterly. Bound Vol. VIII. 1860. Adirondack Wilderness. Vol IX, pp. 1-10. Sketch of Dr. Emmons. Vol. IX, pp. 260-269. The Adirondacks as a Health Resort. Joseph W. Stickler, M. S., M. D. New York : G. P. Putnam's Sons. 1886. Pp. 198. American Scenic and Historic Preservation Society, 23rd Annual Report, 1918. "Macomb Landmarks," pp. 134-146. 18th Annual Report, 1913. "Adirondack Forest Preserve," pp. 224-244. Where to go in the Adirondacks (and on Lake George and on Lake Cham- plain). George R. Hardie. Canton, N. Y. 1909. Pp. 96. 306 BIBLIOGRAPHY RARE PAAIPHLETS Papers and Documents Relative to the Mohawk and St. Lawrence Railroad and Navigation Company. Albany : J. Munsell. 1838. Pp24 Map The interesting old map in this pamphlet shows the proposed line of the rail- road from Little Falls to Raquette Lake. See Chap. XL Assembly Document No. 133. January 30, 1839. Communication from the Secretary of State, transmitting the report of a survey of a Rail-Road from Ogdensburgh to Lake Champlain. This became the "Northern Railroad." See Chap. XL. Ascent and Barometrical Measurment of Mt. Seward. Verplanck Colvin Albany: the Argus Co. 1872. "Printed in advance of the Report." An Attempt to Present the Claims of Long Lake to the Consideration of all those who are in Search after Good Land at a Low Price. By Amos Dean, one of the Proprietors. Albany: Joel Munsell. 1846 This interesting pamphlet is fully discussed in Chap. XXXIV. Historical Notes of the Settlement on No. 4, Brown's Tract, in Watson, Lewis County, N. Y., with Notices of the Early Settlers. Utica: Roberts, printer, Ap^'erldif?^^^^ *^^ ''*'''* Adirondack item in e.xistence. See Chap. XIII and Why the Wilderness is called Adirondack. By Henry Domburgh. Glens Falls: Job Department, Daily Times, 1885. For details of this pamphlet see Chap. XIV. A paper Read Before the American Geographical and Statistical Society. No^v^mber 2, 1854. By C. H. Waddell. New York: G. P. Putnam & Co. An Address Before the Albany Institute on the Adirondack Wilderness. By^Lemon Thompson, March 18, 1884. Albany: Weed, Parsons & Co. ^M^fT^ fi'°'T= Biographical Sketches and Anecdotes of Men that Made the Adirondack's Famous. With Portraits. John H. Titus Troy Iroy Times Art Press. 1899. Loaned to the collection by Mr. Fred T. Tremble. ^TLuZT'^'^'T ""'"'' " *'' Adirondacks. By J. Dyneley Prince. Published m the Journal for American Folk-lore for 1900. Pp. 123-128. GUIDE-BOOKS Wallace E. R Descriptive Guide to the Adirondacks. Syracuse: 1872. Pocket map by Dr. W. W. Ely. Illus. Pp 273 i?.'to"th *rtf "' ^"!f -^^^k to be devoted solely to these mountains. Accord- Itht Th T '^'\'"''''''' ^ "^^'-^ °^^- «^^" the two w«rk8 bound to- ZtZ the^rT-di':::."^^"^' " '- ^^^^ '^ ^*-"' ^^"--^^ ^^ ^- ^he BIBLIOGRAPHY 30( The "Guide" appeared from time to time in revised and enlar-od editions and the one of 1896 (pp. 527) is particularly full of valuable historical documents and data. Stoddard, S. R. The Adirondacks: Illustrated. Albany: Van Benthuvsen & Sons. 1874. Pp. 194. Through the purely guide book portions of this work there runs a descriptive narrative of a trip through the woods, and this combination was continued up to 1911, when the last edition appeared. A new one had been issued annually for the long period of thirty-seven years. The last one was greatly reduced in size and material, and tiie preface offered the following explanation: "Wild grass grows on the old routes and the unknown places of then (1873) are now (1011) centers of a summer population greater than the total of all Adiron- dack visitors of twenty years ago. So the old 'Narrative' is dropped and the space given to that which is believed to be of more value to the tourist gener- ally condensed and in a more convenient size for the pocket." These words proved valedictory. The little book had out-lived its usefulness, after a long reign of popularity. It was the better known of the two guide- books, but historically Wallace's was far more richly stocked. EARLY MAGAZINE ARTICLES (Chronologically Arranged) 1838 Some Account of Two Visits to the Mountains in Essex County, New York, in the Years 1836 and 1837; with a Sketch of the Northern Sources of the Hudson. W. C. Redfield. Family Magazine. 1838. (Reprinted from American Journal of Science and xli-ts.) This is the earliest magazine article I know of, and is a most interesting one. 1854 The Wilds of Northern New York. Anon. Putnam's ]\Ionthly. September. Another very interesting article, written probably by Prof. F. N. Benedict. 1859 A Forest Story. The Adirondack Woods and Waters. T. Addison Richards. Harper's New Monthly Magazine. September. A trip to pome well-known places. Desultory narrative without much his- torical interest. 1859 A Visit to John BrovtTi's Tract. T. B. Thorpe. Harper's New Monthly Magazine. July. This is a humorous article, but has also historical interest. I have quoted from it in Chap. XTII. 1869 Keene Deliehts. Lucy Fountain. Putnam's Magazine. December. A pleasing description of Keene Valley, but dealing mainly with the scenery. 1870 The Raquette Club. Anon. Harper's New Monthly Magazine. August. This was written by Charles Hallook. It is a clever satire, most amusingly illustrated, on the "Murray Rush." I have quoted from it in Chap. XVII. 1881 Camp Lou. Marc Cook. Harper's New Monthly Magazine. May. This tells how a very sick man regained his health in the woods. It was the 308 BIBLIOGRAPHY first experience of the kind to be published, and as such attracted wide-spread attention. It brought forth such a flood of inquiries from interested invalids that the author expanded his article into a book called The Wilda-ness Cure. 1885 Ampersand. Henry Van Dyke. Harper's New Monthly Magazine. July. Charming description of a climb up Ampersand Mountain, included later in the volume of essays entitled Little Rivers. 1888 Winter in the Adirondacks. Hamilton Wright Mabie. Scribner's Magazine. December. Mainly descriptive of the scenery. SOME JOHN BROWN MAGAZINE ARTICLES How We Met John Brown. R. H. Dana, Jr. Atlantic Monthly. July, 1871. John Brown in the Adirondacks. Albert Shaw. Review of Reviews. Sep- tember, 1896. John Brown at North Elba. Elizabeth Porter Gould. Outlook. Novem- ber, 1896. The Final Burial of the Followers of John Brown. Thomas Featherston- haugh. New England Magazine. April, 1901. An Adirondack Pilgrimage. May Ellis Nichols. National Magazine. July, 1903. The Funeral of John Brown. Rev. Joshua Young, D. D. New England Magazine. April, 1904. Ruth Thompson's Last Letter to Her Father, Written at North Elba, Novem- ber 27, 1S59. Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society — Jan- uary, February, March, 1908. P. 330. SOME ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON MAGAZINE ARTICLES Stevenson's Second Visit to America. William Henry Duncan, Jr. Book- man. January, 1900. The Trail of Stevenson. (Pari; VI. The United States.) Clayton Hamil- ton. Bookman. March, 1915. My Autobiography. S. S. McCIure. (Visits to Stevenson at Saranac Lake.) McClure's. March, 1914. The Singer in the Snows. Stephen Chalmers. Medical Pickwick. January, 1915. (This is the first number of a unique magazine published for a brief period at Saranac Lake.) Stevenson and Saranac. Lawrason Brown. Pamphlet reprint from a cata- log of an exhibition of Stevenson first editions at the Grolier Club in No- vember, 1914. BIBLIOGRAPHY 309 ADIRONDACK MAGAZINES Woods and Waters. (A Quarterly.) This was the only magazine ever devoted exclusively to the Adirondacks, al- though it occasionally espoused the cause of game protection in other parts of the country. It was published by Harry V. Radford (see Chapter XVIII). The earlier issues consisted of only a few pages without any cover, but it gradually grew in size and importance, and came to have several thousand subscribers. It was started in 1898 and was discontinued in 1906. The earlier issues are very scarce, and it has not been my good fortune to procure any. This collection contains the following numbers only: Vol. Ill No. 4. 1900-01 Vol. IV No. 2, 4. 1901-02 Vol. V No. 2. 1902-03 Vol. VI No. 1, 2, 3, 4. 1903-04 Vol. VII No. 1, 2, 3, 4. 1904-05 Stoddard's Northern Monthly. This was started in May, 1906, by S. R. Stoddard, of Glens Falls, the guide- book author. His Magazine was intended to fill the place left vacant by the discontinuance of Woods and Waters, but it did not prove so popular nor suc- cessful. The monthly did not have behind it the pushing personality or the concentrated enthusiasm of the less pretentious quarterly. Nominally devoted to the Adirondacks, a major portion of its contents consisted of extraneous matter — foreign travel, fiction, poetry. It began, moreover, where the quarterly ended, and ended where the quarterly began. The first number was a full- fledged magazine, with a frontispiece in color; then, at the beginning of the second year, the size was reduced to a thin duodecimo, and the last number ap- peared in September, 1908. This collection contains a complete set of this magazine: Vol. I, No. 1. May, 1906 to Vol. IV, No. 3. September, 1908. Journal of the Outdoor Life. June, 1910. — A Trudeau Number, "Commemorating the Completion of Twenty- five years of Pioneer Work." The first number of this magazine was published in February, 1904. It was founded and edited by Dr. Lawrason Brown, then resident-physician at tha Trudeau Sanatorium. In 1909 it was taken over by some physicians in New York, and it is now published by the National Tuberculosis Association. Forest Leaves. The announcement to the first issue of this little magazine says: "Forest Leaves will be a quarterly magazine. It will be published by the Sanitarium Gabriels at Gabriels, N. Y. It will be written by friends of the Adirondacks. to be read by friends of the Adirondacks. "Forest Leaves will be stirred by the breezes of the northern woods, and will whisper of the healthful delights of living where the air is wafted from a pure sky to a clean earth." It was started in December, 1903, by Sister Mary P. H. Kieran, the beloved head of Gabriels Sanitarium, near Paul Smith's. Sister Mary made the 310 BIBLIOGRAPHY magazine her special hobby and nursed it into a notable success. It spread the message of her splendid charity abroad, received the support of friendly advertisers, and offered the contributions of eminent writers. Sister Mary herself contributed, especially to the earlier numbers, many articles of historical interest. She died in 1914, but the publication of the magazine has been con- tinued. This collection contains the following numbers: Vol. I \ol. 11 Vol. IV No. 2, Vol. X No. 2, 3, Vol. XI No. 1, 2, Vol. XII No. 1, 2, Vol. XV No. 3, Complete, bound, 1903-1904 Complete, 1905-1906 1907 1913-1914 1914-1915 1915-1916 1919 1919-1920 Vol. XVI No. 1, MAGAZINES WHOSE SCOPE OFTEN TOUCHES THE ADIRONDACKS Field and Stream. 1901: 1902: June, May, September, Jime, October, July, December. August. While this collection contains the above issues only, nearly every number of this magazine has some Adirondack material in it, and for years it ran a special Adirondack Department, which was started by Harry V. Radford. Outing. The Sporting Clubs of the Adirondacks. — Seaver A. Miller. August, 1898. This magazine also contains much Adirondack material scattered through its many issues since 1882. The Conser\-ationist. A little magazine published monthly by the Conservation Commission since January 1, 1917. PUBLICATIONS OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE ADIRONDACKS (The Annual Reports have been included in this list, because they are es- sentially documents of historical value and general interest. The few num- bers missing from this collection have been marked with an asterisk. A com- plete file is in the New York Public Library.) No. 1.* Depew, Chauncey M. National Appalachian Forest Reserve. Speech in Senate of United States. June 7, 1902. Pp. 8. No. 2.* List of Officers and Members. 1903. Pp. 48. BIBLIOGRAPHY 311 No. 3. A Plea for the Adirondack and Catskill Parks: An argument for the resumption, by the State of New York, of the policy of acquir- ing lands for the public benefit within the limits of the forest pre- serve. 1903. Pp. 30. No. 4. Hall, E. H. The Adirondack Park: A sketch of the origin, the romantic charms and the practical uses of the Adirondack Park, and some reasons for the acquisition of land and reforestation by the State of New York. 1903. Pp. 32. Illus. No. 5. Suter, H. M. Forest Fires in the Adirondacks in 1903. 1904. Pp. 16. Also published as Circular 26, United States Forestry Di- vision. No. 6.* The Adirondack Appropriation Bill of 1906: Reasons why the State should make liberal provision for extending the Forest Pre- serve within the Adirondack and Catskill Parks. 1906. Pp. 20. No. 7. Annual Report, No. 5, for 1906. Including an opinion by Hon. Joseph Choate concerning the application of the Forestry Section of the State Constitution to Reservoirs on State Forest Lands, and press comments on the Constitutional Amendment proposed by the Legislature of 1906. 1906. Pp. 32. No. 8. Letter to the Members of the Lei;islature of the State of New York : Concerning the proposed Amendment to Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution relating to the Forest Preserve. 1907. Pp. 16. No. 9. A Brief Review of the depredations upon the Adirondack forests ac- complished or attempted during the past few years, with reference to the proposed Amendment to . . . the Constitution together with a statement by Governor Hughes . . . letters from prominent citi- zens, and the action of the People's Institute of New York. 1907. Pp. 20. No. 10. The Legislature of the State of New York for 1907. 1907. Pp. 7. No. 11.* Tinkering with the Constitution: Some reasons why the proposed Amendment , , . should not be adopted; together with letters from Charles Sprague Smith of the People's Institute of New York and Dr. Walter B. James on the subject. 1907. Pp. 12. No. 12.* Agar, John G. : Paper read at the convention called by the Albany Chamber of Commerce . . . March 14, 1907, to consider the pending Constitutional Amendment relating to the construction of dams and the storage of waters on the Forest Preserve for public purposes. 1907. Pp. 32. No. 13. Sixth annual report of the Hon. Henry E. Howland, President: Including a brief summary of reasons why Section 7 of Article VII of the Constitution should not be amended, extracts from prelim- inary reports of the Association's engineers, and testimony concern- ing unsanitary conditions produced by storage reservoirs in the Adirondacks. ' 1907. Pp. 30. 312 BIBLIOGRAPHY §■ PUBLICATIONS OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE ADIRONDACKS No. 14. Graves, H. S. : Address at the American Museum of Natural His- tory . . . April 25, 1907, giving reasons why the Constitution of the State of New York should now be amended so as to permit Water Storage in the Adirondack Park. 1907. Pp. 10. No. 15.* The Conservation of the Waters and Woods of the State of New York: An address delivered May 10, 1907 ... in favor of a com- prehensive plan of water storage, and appropriations for extending the Forest Preserve and replanting. 1907. Pp. 15. No. 16. Seventh Annual Report of the Hon. Henry E. Rowland, President: Including draft of a proposed Constitutional Amendment permitting water storage on State Lands outside of the Adirondack and Catskill Parks; extracts from messages of President Roosevelt and Governor Hughes, etc. 1908. Pp. 20. No. 17. Drowned State Lands on the Saranac River: A statement of some of the facts involved in the suit . . . against the Paul Smith's Elec- tric Light and Power and Railroad Company for a permanent injunction restraining the defendant from taking lands belonging to the State Forest Preserve and destroying the timber thereon. 1908. Pp. 22, pi. No. 18. Eighth Annual Report of the Hon. Henry E. Howland, President: With reference to the Forest Fires of 1908 and including the Con- stitution and By-Laws of the Association. 1909. Pp. 17. No. 19.* Ninth Annual Report of Henry E. Howland, President: With reference to Adirondack Legislation in 1910. . . . 1910. Pp. 28. No. 20. Tenth Annual Report of tlie President, April 11, 1911: With a paper on the Conservation of the Woods and Waters of the Adiron- dacks presented at the 2d National Conservation Congress in St. Paul, Minn., Sept. 5-9, 1910. 1911. Pp. 47. No. 21. Eleventh Annual Report of the President, April 9, 1912: With a memorandum of conservation legislation proposed in the Legis- lature of 1912. 1912. Pp. 44. No. 22. Twelfth Annual Report of the President, 1913: With a memo- randum of Conservation Legislation proposed in the Legislature of 1913. 1913. Pp. 24. No. 23. Tliirteenth Annual Report of the President, 1914. 1914. Pp. 26. No. 24. State Policy of Forest and Water Power Conser\-ation: An ad- dress by John G. Agar at the Annual Meeting of the Academy of Political Science in the City of New York, November 20, 1914. No. 25. Fourteenth Annual Report of the President : And a Supplemental Report on the Revision of the State Constitution. 1915. Pp. 39. No. 26. Fifteenth Annual Report of the President: With Supplementary Information. 1916. Pp. 24. BIBLIOGRAPHY 313 No. 27. Sixteenth Annual Report of the President: With Supplementary Information. 1917. Pp. 24. No. 28. Land Purchase for the Forest Preserve: Su-gestion for a State Policy. The Lake Placid Situation. December, 1917. Pp. 16. No. 29. Seventh Annual Report of the President: And a Paper on Water Conservation in New York. 1918. Pp. 41. No. 30. Eighteenth Annual Report of the President: With Supplementary- Information. 1919. Pp. 76. ADIRONDACK PUBLICATIONS OF THE NEW YOKK BOARD OF TRADE AND TRANSPORTATION April, 1885. The Preservation of the Adirondack Forests and their relation to the Commerce of the State. The Harbor of New York City and the Canals of the State Jeopardized. April, 1893. Joint letter to Governor Flower protesting against the ap- proval of bill to amend the law of 1885. June, 1894. Proposed amendment to the Constitution of the State of New York to preserve its forests, with reasons why. An address to the Constitutional Convention of 1894. November, 1894. Report on Constitutional Amendment. February, 1900. Letter to Legislature and for general distribution, urging the creation of a single headed Forestry Commission in place of the then existing Fisheries, Game and Forestry Commission. January, 1901. A proposed bill to remodel the Forest, Fish and Game Com- mission to consist of a single Commissioner with Deputy Commis- sioners in charge of several departments of the work. March, 1902. Forest Preservation. Should pending amendments to Article Seven, Section VII of the State Constitution relating to Forest Preserve be passed? Argument against adoption of proposed amendment. March, 1903. The Water Storage Commission Bill. A menace to the People. Protest against Lewis Bill. April, 1903. Circular letter. Protest against the Lewis Water Storage Commission Bill and urging the adoption of the Stevens Substitute Bill prepared by the Board of Trade and Transportation. April, 1903. The Water Storage Humbug. The amended Lewis Bill a bad measure. Protest against the Lewis Bill and advocating passage of the Stevens Substitute Bill. December, 1903. The State Forests. Forest Fires; Their Danger to Life and Property. Systems of Protection in use in other countries and states. Water Power should be preserved. The Water Storage Law should be enacted. Waste lands should be reforested. Official licensed guides should be created. Repeal Forest Preservation Con- demnation Law. A report by the Committee on Forests. 314 BIBLIOGRAPHY March, 1905, Circular entitled "Lumber Thieves in the People's Forests," approving recommendation of Governor Higgins and urging him to remove from office officials through whose neglect lumber was cut or removed from State lands and urging the passage of amendments to the law to compel the prosecution of trespasses and theft. March, 1905. Increased Water Supply for Greater New York. A State Commission and a New York City Water Supply Commission advo- cated by joint report by Committee on Forests and Committee on City Affairs. February, 1907. The Water Storage Schemes to Enrich the Schemer. February, 1907. Pending Constitutional Amendment Relating to the State Forest Preserve. Argument against proposed amendment to Article Seven, Section VII of the State Constitution introduced by Assem- blyman Merritt. April, 1907. A bill for water power development introduced by Senator Fuller and Assemblyman Jolin Lord O'Brian. An act authorizing the State Water Supply Commission to devise plans for the pro- gressive development under State management and control and mak- ing an appropriation therefor. April, 1909. Water Storage in the New York State Forest Preserve. Urg- ing the amendment to the Constitution to provide for the limited area of the Forest Preserve for water storage. April, 1910. Report on bills introduced by Senator Cobb and Assemblyman Fowler carrying out a general plan of development of water storage within and outside the Forest Preserve. July, 1911. The policy of New York State in reference to development of water powers. January, 1914. Forests and water storage policy of the State of New York. A letter to Governor GljTin. August, 1915. To Elihu Root, President, Constitutional Convention, Albany, protesting against pending proposal to establish a Conservation Com- mission of nine members. September, 1915. Conservation of the State's natural resources. Analysis of propositions pending in the Constitutional Convention relating to the State and Forest Preserve. October, 1915. What every voter should know. A momentous question. Vote for Constitutional amendment No. 4. BIBLIOGRAPHY 315 BIBLIOGRAPHY— SECOND PART The author is deeply indebted to Mr. James A. McMillen for the foUowing part of this bibliography, Mr. McMillen graciously compiled it for this his- tory as part of the work required for the degree of Bachelor of Library Science conferred upon him in 1915 by the New York State Library School at Albany. He is now Librarian of Washnigton University, St. Louis, Mo. His bibliography was made supplemental to an earlier but much slighter one compiled by Miss C. A. Sherill, also a Library School student, and pub- hshed in the Annual Report of the Forest, Fish and Game Commission for 1898. Mr. McMillen's far more extensive and thorough work involved re- searches in many of the larger public libraries of the East. Items already listed in the Donaldson Collection have not been repeated, so that Mr. McMillen's list has been diminished to that extent. It has also been re-arranged under separate headings. The library in which a particular work was found has been indicated by the following abbreviations : Y. M. A. L Young Men's Association Library (Albany) L. C Library of Cdngfess N. Y. Hist. Soc New York Historical Society Library N. Y. P New York Public Library N. Y. S New York State Library N. Y. S. Mus New York State Museum N. Y. S. Trav. Lib. New York State Traveling Libraries Prov. Ath Providence Athenaeum Univ. Pa. Lib University of Pennsylvania Library U. S. D. Agr U. S. Department of Agriculture Library Prov. P. L Providence Public Library B. P. L Boston Public Library The following explanations are offered for those who may not be familiar with the many abbreviations used in bibliographic listing: c (before dates) copyright D 12mo. diagr diagram , ed edition or editor F folio f ac facsimile illus illustrated 1 leaves, when pages are unnumbered n. d no date n. p no place or publisher n. s new series 8vo. obi oblong 316 BIBLIOGRAPHY P page pi plate port portrait pseud pseudonym Q 4to. S 16mo. ser series T 24mo. tab table V voliune Brackets around letters or numbers indicate additions made by the bibli- ographer which do not appear on the printed page. Single capitals at the beginning of a title indicate that the article is signed with that initial. BIOGRAPHY Atkinson, Eleanor. The Soul of John Brown; Recollections of the great abolitionist by his son. (American Mag., v. 68: 633-43, illus., Oct., 1909.) Life at North Elba, p. 638. N. Y. S. Bertin, Georges. 1815-1832. Joseph Bonaparte en Amerique . . . Paris: Libraire de la Nouvelle Revue, 1893. xv. 423 p., port., tab. D. Chap. II. Tatonnements du d^but, p. [22]-54, deals with his estate in North- ern New York near lake now known as Bonaparte Lake. N. Y. P. Brandreth, Paul. Old Leviathan of Burnt Mountain Lake. (Forest & Str., V. 80:[5]-6, 31, illus., Jan. 4, 1913.) Account of day spent with Reuben Cary. N. Y. P. Brandreth. Paul. Reuben Gary — Forest Patriarch; A Biographical Sketch of a Well-Known Adirondack Guide. (Forest & Str., v. 82: 821-22, 854- 55, port., June 20 & 27, 1914.) N. Y. P. Channing, William Ellery. Burial of John Brown; [A Poem]. Boston, 1860. 8 p. 0. Found also in: Orcutt, S. History of Torrington, Conn. 1878. P. 413-19. Title from Villard. Dana, Richard H., Jr. How we met John Brown. (Atlantic, v. 28:1-9, July, 1871.) Describes a trip to the Adirondacks in 1849. Party became lost in tlie woods and later received shelter at the home of John Brown in North Elba. N. Y. S. Emerson, Ralph Waldo. Journals of Ralph Waldo Emerson, with annota- tions; ed. by Edward Waldo Emerson and Waldo Emerson Forbes. Bos- ton: Houghton, Mifflin Co., 1909-14. 10 v. pi., port., fac. O. Notes on Adirondack Trip v. 9, 1856-1863, p. 158-61. L. C. F. M. H. A Brave Life. (Overland, n. s., v. 6 : 360-67, Oct., 1885.) Life of the wife of Capt. John Brown, dealing with Adirondack days and her later experiences and burial in the West. N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 317 Gould, EUzabeth Porter. John Brown at North Elba. (Outlook v ^a. 909-11, Nov. 21. 1896.) ^ N y S Greenslet, Ferris. The Life of Thomas Bailey Aldrich. Boston: Houohton Mifflin Co., 1908. xi, 303 p., pi., port. 0. Chap. VIII. The last years, 1901-1907, tell of his last days in the Adiron- dacks at Saranac Lake, p. 216-27. N Y «; Hamilton, Clayton. On the Trail of Stevenson: VI. The United States (Bookman, v. 41:[29]-44, illus., Mar., 1915.) Life at Saranac Lake, Oct. 3, 18S7-April 16, 1888, characterized as "the most productive period of Stevenson's career in the United States," p. 38-42. N. Y. S. Higginson, Thomas Wentworth A Visit to John Brown's Household in 1859. (In his Contemporaries. 1909. p. [219]-i3.) Visit made to family in North Elba shortly after John Brown's execution. Reprinted from : Red- path, James. The Public Life of Capt. John Brown. 1860. chap. V, p. 59-72. N. Y. S.; N. Y. P. John Brown. (Macmillan's Mag., v. 58:443-52, Oct., 1888.) Life at North Elba, p. 446-47 ; Burial at North Elba, p. 452. N. Y. S. Knox, M. V. B. "Old Mountain" Phelps. (Field & Str., v. 10:492-93, port., Sept., 1905.) Sketch of the life of Orson Schofield Phelps, an Adirondack guide beginning in 1849. N. Y. P. Life of John Brown : A Sketch, n.p., n.d. 16 p. T. Prepared for distribution at John Brown's Grave. Gives main facts about John Brown's life at North Elba and his burial. N. Y. S. Literary Landmarks of the Adirondacks. ( Outlook, v. 90 : 105-07, Sept. 19, 1908.) "The Spectator" talks of the Adirondack life of Stevenson, Aldrich, Emerson, Lowell, Warner, and others. N. Y. S. Low, Will H. A Chronicle of Friendships, 1873-1900; with illustrations by the author and from his collections . . . 507 p., pi., port. 0. Chap. 31. A Halt Before Saranac, p, 376-86. Chap. 33. The Return from Saranac, p. 306-406. Tells of Stevenson's Winter in the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Lyman, Henry L. Oration at North Elba, N. Y., July 21, 1896. (New York (St.). Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission. Annual Report, 1897:483-94, pi.) Delivered at the dedication of the John Brown Farm as a State Park. Chiefly on Brown's life but contains many references to his life at North Elba. N. Y. S. McClure, S. S. My Autobiography [Chap. VI.] (McClure's Mag., v. 42: 95-108, illus., Mar., 1914.) Robert Louis Stevenson in the Adirondacks, p. 102-04. N. Y. S. Mather, Fred. Men I Have Fished With : Sketches of Character and Incident With Rod and Gun, From Childhood to Manhood. . . . New York: Forest & Str. Pub. Co., 1897. 371 p., Port. 0. (Forest and Stream Librarj--). Pp. 54-78 treat of experiences in the Adirondacks. N. \. P. 318 BIBLIOGRAPHY Nichols, May Ellis. An Adirondack Pilgrimage. (National Mag. (Best.), v. 18: 476-79, illus., July, 1903.) Pilgrimage to the home of John Brown at North Elba and the story of the establishment of the home as a memorial. N. Y. S. Orcutt, Rev. Samuel. History of Torrington, Connecticut, from its First Settlement in 1737, with Biographies and Genealogies. Albany: J. Mun- sell, 1878. O. John Brown at North Elba, p. 335-39. Channing, William E. The Burial of John Brown; [a poem], p. 413-19. N. Y. S. Radford, Harry V. Adirondack Murray: A Biographical Appreciation. New York: Broadway Pub. Co., 1905. 84 p., pi., port. T. First printed in Woods & Waters, Autumn No., 1904. Prov. Ath. Radford, Harry V., The "Adirondack" Murray of Today. (Field & Str., V. 6: 238-39, port., Jiuie, 1901.) N. Y. P. Roosevelt, Theodore. Theodore Roosevelt: An Autobiography. New York: Macmillan, 1913. xii, 647 p., illus.. pi., port. 0. Tells of receipt of news of Pres. McKinley's being at the point of death when he himself was near the summit of Mt. Tahawus and of his hurried departure for the nearest R. R. station 40 miles distant, see 379. First printed in the Outlook. N. Y. P. Sanborn, F. B. Recollections of Seventy Years. Boston: R. G. Badger, 1909. 2 v., pi., port., fac. 0. Concord and North Elba, v. 1, chap. IV, p. lOS-33. L. C. Shaw, Albert. John Brown in the Adirondacks. (Am. Rev. of Revs., v. 14: 311-17, illus., Sept., 1896.) Describes the Brown homestead and the life of John Brown in the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Spears, Raj-mond S. That Adirondack **Kid." (Forest & Str., v. 53: 227, Sept. 16, 1899.) N. Y. P. HISTORY Blankman, Ed. G. Geography [and history] of St. Lawrence Co., New York. Canton, N. Y., 1898. Boscq de Beaumont, Gaston du. Aux lacs frangais des Adirondacks (fitats- Unis d'Amerique.) (Tour du Monde, n.s., v. 7:[301]-12, illus., 1901.) Trip made in 1899, interesting because it gives the impressions received by a French traveler. N. Y. P. Bruce, Wallace. The Hudson: Three Centuries of History, Romance and Invention. New York: Brj-ant Union Co., [c 1913.] 223 p., illus., pi., maps. D. Saratoga Springs to the Adirondacks, p. 191-96. Lake George to the Adirondacks, p. 197-200. Source of the Hudson, p. 201-09. N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 319 Curtis, Gates, ed. Our Country and Its People; A Memorial Record of St Lawrence County, New York. Syracuse, N. Y.: D. Mason & Co., 1894 720, 372 p., illus., port., map. 0. X y S [Durant, Samuel W., & Pierce, Henry B.] 1749. History of St. Lawrence Co., New York, with Illustrations and Biographical Sketches of some of its Prominent Men and Pioneers. Philadelphia: L. H. Everts & Co., 1878. 521 p., illus., pi., port., map. F. L C. Hardin, George [Anson], ed. History of Herkimer County, New York, illus- trated with Portraits of many of its Citizens; ed. by George A. Hardm as- sisted by Frank H. Willard. S>Tacuse, N. Y.; D. Mason & Co., 1893. 550 p., 11, 276 p., illus., port., maps. Q. N Y. S. History of Herkimer County, N. Y. . . . New York: F. W. Beers & Co., 1879. 289 p., illus., pi., port., maps. F. At head of title: 1791. N. Y. S. How Old Forge (N. Y.) Was Named. (Forest & Str., v. 72:892, June 5, 1909.) Short note on the forge being first put into operation by John Brown (1734- 1803) early in the 19th century. N. Y. P. S. Incidents of Adirondack History. (Forest & Str., v. 48:323-24, Apr. 24, 1897.) N. Y. P. John Brown Farm. (New York (St.). Fisheries, Game and Forest Com- mission. Annual Report, 1896:470-83, pi.) A review of the movement to purchase farm for the State and of its final dedi- cation as State property. Contains a long quotation from T. W. Higginson's account of a visit to liome of Jolm Brown shortly after Brown's execution. N. Y. S. Lee, Francis W. John Brown's Grave. (Garden & Forest, v. 9:108-09, Mar. 11, 1896.) Account of the cutting of the inscription — "John Brown 1859" — on the boulder which marks the grave. N. Y. P.; N. Y. S. Lincoln, Charles Z. The Constitutional History of New York from the Beginning of the Colonial Period to the year 1905, showing the origin, development, and judicial construction of the Constitution, Rochester, N. Y. : Lawyers Co-op. Pub. Co., 1906. 6 v. 0. V. 3, 1894-1905. The Forest Preserve, p. 391-454. N- Y. S. Maeauley, James. Natural, Statistical and Civil History of the State of New York. New York : Gould & Banks, 1829. 3 v. 0. Sacondaga Mts., v. 1, p. 2-9. N. Y. S. McClellan, Katherine Elizabeth. A Hero's Grave In The Adirondacks. Saranac Lake, N. Y. : pub. by the Author, [cl896]. 8 1., illus., port. obi. S, ([Adirondack Series].) Tells of John Brown's life in the Adirondacks and is intended for distribution at the Brown home. ^^- ^- ^■'' ^- ^■ Mather, Fred. Adirondack History. (Forest & Str. v. 48:363, May 8, 1897.) 320 BIBLIOGRAPHY Concerns criticism of statements made by the author in an article on Alvah Dimning. N. Y. P. Morgan, Lewis H. League of the Ho-de-no-sau-nee or Iroquois, by Lewis H. Morgan; A new ed., with additional matter, ed. and annotated by Herbert M. Lloyd. New York : Dodd, Mead & Co., 1904. 2 v. in 1, illus., pi., port., map. 0. First published 1851. Routes followed by the Iroquois Indians on their way through the Adirondack Mountains to Canada, v. 2, p. 209. This is a note to supplement the main text but is valuable in that it gives the routes known to have been used by the Indians. To quote: "Another road to the St. Lawrence was by the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Racquette and Long Lake and the Racquette River. . . . There is evidence of another route to Long Lake and the country beyond via Lake Pleasant, Whittaker Lake, a/id the Indian Lake, but whether Lake Pleasant was usually reached from the south or from the west does not appear." N. Y. S. Raymond, B., and others. Memorial of the Counties of St. Lawrence, Frank- lin and Clinton to the Legislature of New York, praying for an Act Author- izing a Survey of the Route of a Canal to connect Lakes Ontario and Champlain, commencing at the foot of sloop navigation of the St. Law- rence, presented Jan. 23, 1824. 45 p. O. Followed by a Memorial from the City of New York and the Abstract of the debate in the Assembly on the Bill Authorizing the Survey. Title from the Bibliography on N. Y. Canals in the suppl. to the An. Rept. of the State Engr. for 1905. Scott, William E. D. The Garden of the Saranac Lake Industrial Settle- ment. Charities, v. 19 : 1175-82, Dec. 7, 1907. Snyder, Charles E. John Brown's Tract; An Address Delivered Before The Herkimer Co. Historical Society, Dec. 8, 1896. (Herkimer Co., [N. Y.] Historical Society. Papers read before the . . , society during years 1896, 1897 & 1898, 1899. v. 1: 94-108.) History of the historic tract purchased by and named after John Brown ( 1734- 1803). N. Y. S. Van Rensselaer, Mrs. M. G. John Brown's Grave. (Garden & Forest, v. 9: 47, Jan. 29, 1896.) Description of John Brown's farm and story of the movement for its preserva- tion as a public park. N. Y. S. SCIENTIFIC Adams, F. D., and others. Report of a special committee, General Interna- tional Committee on Geological Nomenclature, on the Correlation of the Preeambrian Rocks of the Adirondack Mountains, the "Original Laurentian Area" of Canada, and Eastern Ontario. (Jour, of Geol., v. 15:191-217, Apr. -May, .1907.) N. Y. S. Adirondack Gold Deposits, N. Y. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 68: 241, Aug. 26, 1899.) BIBLIOGRAPHY 32i Editorial branding Boston enterprise claiming to have rich gold-bearing sands in the Adirondack as a fake. ,1^ Y i> Adirondack Gold Again. {Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 98:298, Nov. 21, 1914.) Editorial telling of another Adirondack Gold Swindle. N. Y. P Adirondack Gold Mines. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 69:582, May 19, 1900.) Editorial disclosing several "Adirondack Schemes" which "have no basis what- ever to stand on." N Y S The Adirondack Gold Swindle. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 93: [4371-38 Mar 2 1912.) Editorial reviewing various schemes. N Y. S Adirondack Survey. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 39:257-58, Apr. 18, 1885.) Editorial commending the work done on the Adirondack State Land Survey. N. Y. S. Bast in, Edson S. Origin of certain Adirondack Graphite Deposits. (Econ, Geol, V. 5: 134-57, illus., Mar., 1910.) Bibliography, p. 156-57. N. Y. S. Mus. Beck, Richard. The Nature of Ore Deposits; tr. and revised by Walter Har- vey Weed . . . New York: Hill Pub. Co., 1909. 685 p., illus., map. 0. The titaniferoiis magnetites of the Adirondacks, p. 22-23. N. Y. S. Bell, John, M. D. Note on Adirondack Mineral Water. (Phila. Med. Times, V. 1: 144-45, Jan. 16, 1871.) N. Y. P. Benedict, Farrand N. Report on a survey of the waters of the Upper Hud- son and Raquette Rivers, in the Summer of 1874. . . . (In: New York (St.) Canal Commission. Annual Report, 1874. N. Y. Assembly Doc, 1875, No. 6. p. 83-160.) Refers to earlier surveys made by him over principal water systems between the Black River and the Hudson, 1845-55. N. Y. S. Bixby, George F. History of the Iron Ore Industry of Lake Champlain. (In: New York State Historical Association Proceedings, v. ll:[169]-237, 1910.) Although not bearing directly on the distinctive Adirondack Region, it reviews the history of the industry throughout all Northern New York, thus treating of the mines in the Adirondacks proper. N. Y. S. Brigham, Albert Perry. Note on Trellised Drainage in the Adirondacks. (Am. Geol., v. 21 : 219-22, map, 1898.) N. Y. S. Britton, N. L. On a Schistose Series of Crystalline Rocks in the Adirondacks. (N. Y. Acad, of Sci. Trans., v. 5: 72.) With remarks of A. A. Julien, p. 73. N. Y. P. Carpenter. Warwick [Stevens]. Lure of the Adirondack Gold. (Outing, V. 57:522-32. illus., Feb., 1911.) Account of a prospecting excursion following the report of the Black Mountain gold strike. ^- ^'- ^• Casey, William R. Message from the Governor, transmitting the report of Mr. Casey, in relation to the Ogdensburgh and Lake Champlain Railroad. 23 p. (N. Y. Assembly doc, 1842, no. 70.) 322 BIBLIOGRAPHY Being the report of the engineer concerning the mineral and timber resources of Essex and Franklin counties. N. Y. S. Chance, H. M. Gold in the Adirondaeks. (Eng. & Min, Jour., v. 89: 695, Apr. 2, 1910.) Account of tests made on some ore from a St. Lawrence Co. mine. N. Y. S. Courtis, W. M. Adirondack Sea-sand Gold, (Eng. & Min. Jour., v, 66: 363-64, Sept. 24, 1898.) Letter concerning Adirondack Gold Swindle. N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Assymetric Differentiation in a Bathylith of Adirondack Syenite. (Geol. Soc. of Amer. Bull., v. 18:477-92, map, 1907.) N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Augite-syenite Gneiss near Loon Lake, New York. (Geol. Soc. of Amer. Bull., v. 10: 177-92, pi., 1899-1900.) N. Y. S. Cushing H. P. Geology of the Long Lake Quadrangle. Albany, 1907. 451-531 p., pi. 0. (N. Y. State Mus. BuU., 115.) Map in pocket. N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Geology of the Northern Adirondack Region. Albany, 1905. [271J-453 p., illus., pi., maps. 0. (N. Y. State Mus. Bull., 95.) N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Origin and Age of an Adirondack Syenite. (Geol. Soc. of Amer. Bull., v. 12:464, 1900-01.) Abstract of paper. Noted also in Science, n. s., v. 13: 100, Jan. 18, 1901. N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Preliminary Report on the Geology of Franklin County. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1898:[73]-128, pi.) N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Recent Geologic Work in Franklin and St. Lawrence Counties. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1900:[23]-82, pi., map.) Chiefly concerns the "Lake belt" in southern portions of above counties. N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Report on the Geology of Clinton County. (In N. Y. State Geologist. 15th Annual Report, 1895 : 499-573, illus., pL, maps.) N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Sequence of Geologic Events in the Adirondaeks. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1896: 8-15.) N. Y. S. Cushing, H. P. Syenite Porphyry Dikes in the Northern Adirondaeks. (Geol. Soc. of Amer. Bull., v. 9 : 239-56, 1898.) N. Y. S. Curtis, H. P. Topography of the Northern Adirondaeks. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1898: [75] -89.) N. Y. S. Davis, W. M. Physiography of the Adirondaeks. (Science, n.s., v. 23: 630-31, Apr. 20, 1906.) Letter commenting on the article by J. F. Kemp in Popular Science Monthly of March, 1906. ' N. Y. S. Eckel, Edwnn C. Pyrite deposits of the Western Adirondaeks, New York. (U. S. Geol. Survey. Bull. 260:587-88, 1905.) N. Y. S. Fair, H. L. Ice Erosion Theory a Fallacy. (Geol. Soc, of Amer. Bull., v. 16: 13-74, pi.. Map, 1905-06.) Effects in Adirondack Region, Northern New York, p. 50-51. N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 323 F0.3. v. 12: 185. N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. Illustrations of the Dynamic Metamorphism of Anorthosites and Related Rocks of the Adirondacks. (Geol. Soc. of Amer. Bull., V. 7: 488-89, 1895-96.) Abstract of paper. N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. The Ore Deposits of the United States and Canada. New York: Eng. & Min. Jour., 1905. xxiv, 481 p., illus., pi., maps. 0. Chap. III. Magnetite and Pyrito; Example 12a, Tlie Adirondacks, p. IGO-IGG, Bibliographies, p. IGl, 16,5. * N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. Physiography of Adirondacks. (Pop. Sci. Mo., v. 68:195-210, Mar., 190G.) Contents: Geological Formations: Mountains proper and the Western Pla- teau; Valleys; Drainage; Lakes; Ice Invasion of Glacial Epoch. N. Y. P. Kemp, James Furman. Pliysiogra])hy of the Adirondacks. (Science, n.s., v. 23: 631-32, Apr. 20, 1906.) Reply to letter of W. M. Davis, published in same numlnT of the magazine. N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. Pro-camhrian Sediments in the Adirondacks. (Amer. Assoc, for Adv. of Sci. Proceedings, v. 49:157-84, 1900; also in Science, n.s., v. 12: 81-98. July 20, 1900.) Abstract of this paper is in Sci. Am. Suppl., v. 40: 20489, June 30, 1900; also in Eng. Min. Jour , v. 60: 760-70, June 30, 1000 N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. The Pre-cambrian Topography of the Adirondacks. (New York Acad, of Sci. Trans., v. 15: 189-90, May 18, 1896.) Abstract of a paper read before the Academy N. \'. S. Kemp, James Furman. Preliminary Report on the Geology of Essex County. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1893 : 433-72, maps.) Same. 2d Report. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1895:575-614, maps. ) Latter contains "a review and bibliography of the Eastern Adirondacks." N. Y. S. Kemp, James Furman. Recent progress in investigation of the Geology of the Adirondack Region. (Science, n.s., v. 12: 1006. Dec. 28. 1900.) X. Y. S. BIBLIOGRAPHY 325 Kemp, James Furman. Tlie Titaniferous Iron Ores of the A.lirondacks. (U. S. Geological Survey. lOtli Annual Report, 1897-98, pt. 3:377-422, diagr., maps.) An abstract of this paper may be found in Geol. See. of Amer. Bull., v. 7: 1."), 1895-96. ' a;' y. s! Kemp, James Furman, & Newland, D. H. Preliminary Report on the Geology of Wasbmgton, Warren and parts of Essex and Hamilton Counties. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1897: 499-553, pi., maps.) A continuation of previous reports on the crystalline rocks of tlie Eastern Adirondacks. >t y. S. Kemp, James Furman, Newland, D. H., & Hill, B. F. Preliminary Report on the Geology of Hamilton, Warren and Washington Counties. (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1898:137-102, maps.) Continuation of report made by ilessrs. Kemp and Newland and found in State Geologist's Report of 1897. X. Y. S. Lindgren, Waldemar. Mineral Deposits. New York : McGraw-Hill Book Co., 1913. XV., 883 p., illus. 0. Magnetites of the Adirondacks, p. 756-57. N. Y. S. Maynard, George W. The Iron Ore of Lake Champlain, United States of America. [Br.] Iron & Steel Inst. Journal, v. 8: 109-36, tab., 1874.) Refers to Adirondack region proper as well as to that immediately bordering on Lake Champlain. Includes discussion of paper. X. Y. S. Merchants Association of the City of New York. An Inquiry into the Con- ditions Relating to the Water Supply of the City of New York. [New York,] 1900. xxxix., 627 p., diagr., maps. 0. The Adirondack Mountains, p. 88-92. Also contains a special report on the Adirondacks as a source of supply, for full title of which see: Rafter. George W. N. Y. S. Merrill, Frederick J. H. Mineral Resources of New York State. Albany, 1895. [361]-595 p. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. No. 15.) Map in pocket. The Adirondack Region, including the Lake Champlain mines — magnetic iron ores, p. 532-37. N. Y. S. Miller, William J. Early Paleozoic Physiography of the Southern Adiron- dacks. (New York State Museum. Annual Report, 1912, v. 1:80-94.) Abstract of this paper is in Geol. Soc. of Ameri Bull., v. 24: 701, 191.3. X. Y. S. Miller, William J. The Garnet Deposits of Warren County, New York. (Econ. Geol., v. 7 : 493-501, Aug., 1912.) Describes mines of the Northwestern corner of Warren County, r<>jrion being part of the Eastern Adirondacks X . i . S. Miller, William J. The Geological History of New York State. Albany, 1914. 130 p., illus., pi., maps. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. 168.) Folding of the rocks and uplift of the Adirondacks, p. 36-39. Faulting of the Eastern Adirondacks, p. 70-76. N. Y. S. 326 BIBLIOGRAPHY Miller, "William J. Geology of the North Creek Quadrangle, Warren County, New York. Albany, 1914. 90 p., pi., charts, maps. 0. (N. Y. State Museum, Bull. 170.) Map in pocket A careful study of the garnet district in the Southeastern corner of the Adiron- dacks. N. Y. S. Miller, William J. Ice Movement and Erosion Along the Southwestern Adirondacks. (Amer. Jour, of Sci., 4th Ser., v. 27:289-98, illus., Apr., 1909.) L- C. Miller, [William] J. Through Faulting In the Southern Adirondacks. (Science, n.s., v. 32: 95-96, July 15, 1910.) N. Y. S. Mills, Frank S. The Economic Geology of Northern New York: Valuable Deposits of pjTites, graphite and iron ores abound, but mining is neglected because of various unfavorable conditions. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 85: 396-98, illus., Feb. 22, 1908.) N. Y. S. Needham, James G. The Summer Food of the Bullfrog (Rana Catesbiana Shaw) at Saranae Inn. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull, No. 86, 1905. p. 9-17, pi.) Data secured from investigations conducted on a field trip in July and August, 1900. N. Y. S. Needham, James G., & Betten, Cornelius. Aquatic Insects in the Adiron- dacks, Albany, 1901. [383]-612 p., illus., pi. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. No. 47.) Results of a study made in the Saranae River district. N. Y. S. Nevius, J. Nelson. The Hadley, N. Y., Gold Mill and its History. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 66: 275-276, illus., Sept. 3, 1898.) Reviews the early history of Adirondack mining and prospecting, going back to 1889. N. Y. S. Newell, F. H. Report of Progress of Stream Measurements for the Calendar Year 1900. (U. S. Geological Survey. 22d Annual Report, 1900-01, pt. IV., p. 9-506.) New York State Streams, p. 81-85. Schroon River, p. 104-06. N. Y. S. Newland, D[avid] H[ale]. Adirondack Gold Schemes. (Eng. & Min. Jour., V. 93:392, Feb. 24, 1912.) Shows extent of "boom." N. Y. S. Newland, D[avid] H[ale]. The Adirondack Graphite Industry. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 87 : 99, Jan. 9, 1909.) N. Y. S. Newland, D[avid] H[ale]. Garnet in New York. (Eng. & Mm. Jour., v. 85 : 92, Jan. 4, 1908.) Reviews of the garnet output of the Adirondack mines for the preceding de- cade. N. Y. S. Newland, David H[ale]. Geology of the Adirondack Magnetic Iron Ores; with a report on the Mineville-Port Henry Mine Group, by James F. Kemp. Albany, 1908. 182 p., pi., maps. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. 119.) Bibliography p. 171-72. N .Y. S BIBLIOGRAPHY 327 Newland, D[avid] H[ale]. The Microstructure of Titaniferous Mai^ictites; Discussion of paper by J. T. Singewald, Jr. (Econ. Geol., v. 8- 610-13 Sept., 1913.) Describes the ores from the Lake Sanford Region of the Adirondacks. N. Y. 8. Newland, David H[ale]. The Mining and Quarrj' Industry of New York State: Report of operations and production during 1904-1913. Allniny, 1905-14. 10 V. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bulletins 93, 102, 112 12o' 132, 142, 151, 161, 166 & 174.) Slight variations in title. Consult index of each number for material on Adirondack Mines and Mining X. Y. S. Newland, D[avid] H[ale]. The New York Graphite Industry in 1905. (Eng. & Mm. Jour., v. 81: 88, Jan. 13, 1906.) Discusses graphite occurrences througliout Adirondack region. N. Y. P. Newland, David Hale. On the Associations and Origin of the Non-Titanifer- ous Magnetites in the Adirondack Region. (Econ. Geol., v. 2:763-773, Dec, 1907.) N.Y.S.Mus. Newland, D[avid] H[ale], Production of Crystalline Graphite in the Adi- rondack Region During 1906. (Mineral Industry, 1906, v. 15: 433-34.) N. \'. S. Ogilvie, Ida H. Geology of the Paradox Lake Quadrangle, New York. Al- bany, 1905. [461J-508 p., pi. map. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. 96.) Map in pocket. N. Y. S. Ogilvie, I [da] H. Glacial Phenomena in the Adirondacks and Champlain Valley. (Jour, of Geol., v. 10 : 397-112, 1902.) N. Y. S. Pumpelly, Raphael. Report on the Mining Industries of the United States (exclusive of the precious metals), with Special Investigations into the Iron Resources of the Republic and into the cretaceous coals of the Northwest. Washington, 1886. xxxviii., 1025 p., illus., diagr., tab., maps. Q. (U. S. Census Off. 10th Census of U. S., v. 15). Notes on samples of iron ore collected in New York, Washington, Essex, Clinton, Franklin and St. Lawrence Counties. N. Y. S. Rafter, George W. The Future Water Supply of the Adirondack Mountain Region and its Relation to Enlarged Canals in the State of New York. (New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Report, 1901:461-78.) N. Y. S. Rafter, George W. Natural and Artificial Reservoirs of the State of New York. (New York (St.) Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission, Annual Report, 1897:372-437, illus., pi, map.) Chiefly concerns the great Indian Lake Reservoir built in the Adirondacks in 1898.' N.Y.S. Rafter, George W. Report on Upper Hudson Storage. (In N. Y. State Engineer and Surveyor. Annual Report, 1895:[89]-195, pi., diagr., tab., ^oL N. Y. S. maps. 328 BIBLIOGRAPHY Rafter, George W. Water Resources of the State of New York. Parts I & II. Washington, 1899. 200 p., pi., maps. O. (U. S. Geol. Survey. Water Supply and Irrigation Papers, No. 24-25.) Devotes considerable space to Adirondack streams and lakes. For specific ref- erences consult tables of contents and index. N. Y. S. Rafter, George W. A Water Supply From the Adirondack Mountains for the City of New York. (In: Merchants Association of the City of New York. An inquiry into the conditions relating to the Water Supply of the City of New York. 1900. Appendix E, p. 309-52.) N. Y. S. Ries, Heinrich. Economic Geology with special reference to the United States; New and Revised Ed. New York: Macmillan, 1911. xxxiii., 589 p., illus., pi., maps. 0. Distribution of magnetites in the United States Adirondack region, New York, p. 352-57. N.Y. S. Ries, Heinrich. The Monoclinic Pyroxenes of New York State. (New York Academy of Sci. Annals, v. 9:[124]-80, 1896-97.) Augites: The Adirondack Area, p. 144-55. Contains many other references to the Adirondack region. N. Y. P. Roberts, B. S. Extracts from Report on the Geology and Mineralogy of Parts of Franklin and Clinton Counties. See N. Y. (St.) Commissioners on . . . Railroad from Ogdensburgh to Lake Champlain. Report. Doc. B. (Assembly Doc, 1841, No. 43.) N. Y. S. Roberts, John T., Jr. Gold in the Adirondacks. ( Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 89 : 1002, May 14, 1910.) Account of some tests made in 1909. N. Y. S. Rossi, A. J. Titaniferous Ores in the Blast Furnace. (Amer. Inst. Min. Engrs. Trans., v. 21: 832-67, 1893.) Adirondacks, p. 834-45. N. Y. S. Schofield, P. F. Forests and Rainfall. (The Popular Science Monthly, Nov., 1875.) Smock, John C. First Report on the Iron Mines and Iron-Ore Districts in the State of New York. Albany, 1889. [v.], 70 p., map. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. No. 7.) The Adirondack Region, p. 7-10, 24-44. N. Y. S. Smock, John C. A Review of the Iron-Mining Industry of New York for the Past Decade. (Amer. Inst. Min. Engrs. Trans., v. 17:745-50, 1888- 89.) Lake Champlain and Adirondack Region, p. 746—47. N. Y. S. Smyth, C. H., Jr. The Genetic Relations of Certain Minerals of Northern New York. (New York Academy of Sci. Trans., v. 15 : 260-70, May 18, 1896.) Deals with "Northwestern Portion of the Adirondack area of crystalline rocks, comprising parts of St. Lawrence, Jefferson and Lewis Counties, N. Y." N. Y. S. Smyth, C. H., Jr. Geology of the Adirondack Region. (Appalachia, v. 9: 44-51, May, 1899.) N. Y. S. i BIBLIOGRAPHY 329 Smyth, C. H., Jr. On the Genesis of the Pyrite Deposits of St. Lawrence County. Albany, 1912. 14^-80 p. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull No. 158.) j^Y.s'. Smyth, C. H., Jr. Report on the Crystalline Rocks of St. Lawrence County (N. Y. State Museum. Report (for 1895), v. 2 : 477-97.) N. Y. s". Smyth, C. H., Jr., & Newland, D. H. Report on Progress Made During 1898, m Mapping the Crystallme Rocks of the Western Adirondack Region'! (N. Y. State Geologist. Report, 1898: [129J-35.) N. Y S. Storage Reservoirs in the Adirondacks. (Outlook, v. 85:292-93 Feb 9 1907.) ■ ' Editorial opposing proposed amendment to N. Y. Constitution permitting Adirondack lands to be used as a storage reservoir. N. Y. S. Taylor, B. F. Lake Adirondack. (Amer. Geol., v. 19: 392-96, June, 1897.) "A Reconnaissance of the Slopes of the Northeastern Portion of the Adirondack Mountains." jj_ Y. S. Tarr, Ralph S. The Pliysical Geography of New York State; with a chapter on Climate, by E. T. Turner. New York: Macmillan, 1902. xiu., 397 p., illus., maps. 0. Adirondack Province, p. 13-14. Tlie Adirondacks, p. 41-52. N. Y. S. Taylor, F. H. The Adirondack Mountains. New York: Giles Co., 1892. 31 p. D. N. Y. P. Trudeau, E[dward] L[ivingston], M.D, The First People's Sanitarium in America for the Treatment of Pulmonary Tuberculosis. (Zeitschrift fiir tuberkul., Leipzig, v. 1: 230-40, pi., 1900.) Title fr. Ind. Medicus. Trudeau, E[dward] L[ivingston], M.D. The History and Work of the Saranac Laboratoi-y for the Study of Tuberculosis. (Johns Hopkins Hos- pital. Bulletm, V. 12 : [271]-75, pi., Sept., 1901.) N. Y. S. Trudeau, E[dward] L[ivingston], M.D. The History of the Tuberculosis Work at Saranac Lake. (Med. News, N. Y., v. 83: 769-80, illus., 1903.) N. Y. S. Trudeau, Edward L[ivingston], M.D. The History of the Tuberculosis Work at Saranac Lake, N. Y. (Henry Phipps Inst, for the Study, Treatment & Prevention of Tuberculosis. First Annual Report [1903-04]. 1905. p. 121-40, pi.) Lecture delivered before the Institute in Philadelphia, Oct. 22, 190.3. N. Y. S. U. S. Geological Survey. Operations at River Stations: Report of the Division of Hydrography. These reports appear annually, and are pub- lished in the Water Supply and Irrigation papers. They contain much miscellaneous data concerning the Adirondack rivers. N. Y. S. Van Hise, Charles Richard. Principles of North American Pre-Cambrian Geolosy. (U. S. Geological Sur^'ey. 16th Annual Report, 1894-95, pt. 1, p. 571-843.) The Adirondack District, p. 771-73. N- Y- S. 330 BIBLIOGRAPHY Van Hise, Charles Richard, & Leith, Charles Kenneth. Pre-Cambrian Geology of :^orth America. Washington, 1909. 939 p., maps. 0. (U. S. Geological Survey. Bull. 360.) Adirondack Mountains, p. 597-621. Bibliography of Adirondack Pre-Cambrian Geology, p. 647-50. N. Y. S. GAME The Adirondack Beaver. (Forest & Str., v. 69: [567], Oct. 12, 1907.) Editorial commending attempt to restock region with beaver. N. Y. V. Adirondack Big Game. (Field & Str., v. 12: 598-600, No., 1907.) The elk, the moose, and the black bear. N. Y.P. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 62: 105-06, Feb. 6, 1904.) Symposium with views of N. H. Davis, J. H. Rushton, and C. L. Parker. N. Y. P. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 68: [367], Mar. 9, 1907.) Editorial urging that more care be taken of the deer in winter, thus preventing great mortality through starvation. N. Y. P. An Adirondack Deer Hounding Case. (Forest & Str., v. 53: [121], Aug. 12, 1899.) Comment on the Ives Case. N. Y. P. The Adirondack Deer Law. (Forest & Str., v. 51 : 391, Nov. 12, 1898.) First part of article is signed by J. B. B. ■♦ N. Y. P. The Adirondack Deer Law. (Forest & Str., v. 67: [647], Oct. 27, 1906.) Editorial. N. Y. P. The Adirondack Elk. (Forest & Str., v. 61 : [213] , Sept. 19, 1903.) Editorial urging prohibitory law against hunting elk in certain parts of the North Woods. N. Y. S. Adirondack Elk. (Forest & Str., v. 68 : 615, iUus., Apr. 20, 1907.) N. Y. P. Adirondack Hounding. (Forest & Str., v. 55 : 370, Nov. 10, 1900.) N. Y. P. Adirondack June Deer Slaughter. (Forest & Str., v. 49: 26, July 10, 1897.) Consists of two communications, signed W. H. B. and Fontinalis respectively. N. Y. P. Adirondack Moose Stocking. (Forest & Str., v. 55: 46, July 21, 1900.) N. Y. P. An Adirondack Panther. (Forest & Str., v. 58 : 165, Mar. 1, 1902.) Reprinted from the "Elizabethtown Post." N. Y. P. An Adirondack Wildcat. (Forest & Str., v. 50: 365, May 17, 1898.) Reprinted from "Northern Tribune," Booneville, N. Y. Tells of a hunter's experience. N. Y. P. Adirondack Wolves and Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 52: 290, Apr. 15, 1899.) Quotes from letters of Chief Protector Pound. N. Y. P. B. Adirondack Deer and Public Rights. (Forest & Str., v. 66 : 465, Mar. 24, 1906.) N.Y.P. B. The Adirondack Deer Law. (Forest & Str., v. 52: 206, Mar. 18, 1899.) N. Y. P. 491-92, Dec. 16, 1899. 84:3, Jan., 1915.) (Field & Str., V. 11 ) N. Y. P. N. Y. P. : 676-77, V. (Forest & Str., V. N. Y. P. 67 : 736, BIBLIOGRAPHY 33I B. The Adirondack Deer Law. (Forest & Str., v. 53 : 384-86, Nov. 11, 1899.) N. Y. P. B. Adirondack Game. (Forest & Str., v. 53: Concerns Game Legislation. Beaver in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. Note concerning number of beaver in region. Benham, J. D. An Adirondack Game Resort. Nov., 1906.) Concerns Lake Piseco country. Bradshaw, W. A. The Adirondack Deer Law. No. 10, 1906.) ' ' N.Y.p! Brandretli, Paul. The Fine Art of Deer Hunting; Points on the Great Game by an Old Hunter. (Field & Str., v. 19:[489]-94, 631-34, Sept & Oct 1914.) With some accounts of deer hunts in the Burnt Mountain Lake Region. N. Y. P. Brandreth, Paul. Long Lake— A Sportsman's Arcady. (Forest & Str., v. 81 : [421J-23, 440^1, illus., Oct. 4, 1913.) N. Y. P. Brandreth, Paul. Still-Hunting the White-Tailed Deer. (Field & Str., v. 17:[1192]-95, illus.. Mar., 1913.) Adirondack hunting experience. N. Y. P. Brandreth, Paul. The White-Tailed Deer. (Field & Str., v. 16:606-14, illus., Oct., 1911.) Chiefly concerns the Adirondack deer. X. Y. P. Brandreth, Paulina. Adirondack Beaver. (Forest & Str., v. 71:452, Sept. 19, 1908.) Note on Beaver in Herkimer County. N. Y. P. Brown, George L. The Adirondack Bears. (Forest & Str., v. 62: 168, Feb. 27, 1904.) Against protection of the bear in Essex County. N. Y. P. Burnham, J[ohn] B. Adirondack Deer Hounding. (Forest & Str., v. 53: 345, Oct. 28, 1899.) N. Y. P. Burnham, J[ohn] B. Adirondack Notes. (Forest & Str., v. 59:128, Aug. 16, 1902.) Contents: A Bear Mortality Theory. — Theft of a Bear. — An Adirondack Cave. N. Y. P. Burnham, John B. Panthers in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 73: 374, Sept. 4, 1909.) N.Y.P. Burnham, J[ohn] B. Two Days' Hunt at North Hudson. (Forest & Str., v. 53 : 465-66, Dec. 9, 1899.) ^^- ^- ^' Burnham, John S. Adirondack Animals. (In: New York (State) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Reports, 1907-09. p. 372-379, pi.) Part of report of Chief Game Protector showing shipments of deer from Adiron- dacks in 1909 and also annual kill, 1900-1909. ^' Y. S 332 BIBLIOGRAPHY Burr, C. G. A Camp Fire Yarn. (Field & Str., v. 16: 86-87, May, 1911.) A deer story by an Adirondack Guide. N. Y. P. Chahoon, George. The Adirondack Black Bear. (In: New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Report, 1901. p. 243^9.) N. Y. S. Chase, Frank. Adirondack Deer and Fwests. (Forest & Str., v. 63 : 32, July 9,1904.) N.Y. P. Chill, M. The Last Moose Killed in New York State. (Forest & Str., v. 54: 367, May 12, 1900.) Account of Moose in the Adirondacks. N. Y. P. Cleveland, Grover. Fishing and Shooting Sketches. (New York: Outing Pub. Co., 1906. viii, 209 p., port. D.) Cook, Sam. The Adirondack Deer Season. (Field & Str., v. 9:[618]-22, illus., Oct., 1904.) N.Y. P. Decker, F. L. A Deer Hunt in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 52: 27, Jan. 14; 1899.) N.Y. P. Dodd, M[ark] Dixon. Hunting in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 65: 170, Aug. 26, 1905.) N. Y. P. Doll, George F. Two Adirondack Deer and How the Greenhorn of the Party Chanced to Bring Them Into Camp. (Field & Str., v. 13:[781]-85, illus., Jan., 1909.) N. Y. P. Dugmore, A. Radclyffe. The Stor>- of a Porcupine Hunt. (In His Wild Life and the Camera. 1912. p. 49-60, illus.) How a series of photographs were made in the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. The Essex County [G^me] Protector. (Forest & Str., v. 53:387, Nov. 11, 1899.) Concorning the work of Fletcher Beede in enforcing game laws. N. Y. P. Eurus, pseud. An Adirondack Deer Hunt. (Forest & Str., v. 49: 205, Sept. 11,1897.) N.Y. P. Fletcher, J. P. In the Northern Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 65: 90-91, ^July 29, 1905.) A Hunting Trip. N. Y. P. Flint, Peter. Bears and Deer in Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 83: 595-96, Nov. 7, 1914.) N.Y. P. Flint, Peter. For an Adirondack Panther Hunt; Certainly Two Big Cats Still Exist in a Mountain Fastness. (Forest & Str., v. 82:687-88, May 23,1914.) N.Y. P. Flint, Peter. Harold Tells How the Deer Wintered in Paradox and Schroon. (Forest & Str., v. 83:50-51, July 11, 1914.) Information vouchsafed for by Harold L. Maguire, an old Adirondack Guide, •with a little account of his experiences. N. Y. P. Flint, Peter. Private Parks do not Protect Game. (Forest & Str., v. 81: 757-58, Dee. 13, 1913.) N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 333 Flint, Peter. Shantymg out for bears, deer, and grouse in Southeastern Adirondacks— the extermination of bucks threatened (Forest & Str v 83: 801-02, Dec. 19, 1914.) ' n Y P Foster, Maximilian. American Game Preserves: The threatened extinction of our native game animals, and the effort to save them by establishing great private parks in which they are preserved and bred. (Munsev v 25'^ [376J-86, illus., June, 1901.) Xehasane Preserve [Adirondacks], p. .384-85; Litchfield Park [Adirondacks], p. 385-86. N Y S Foster, Maximilian. Where the Big Game Runs; Wilderness Where the Sportsman finds noble quarry within striking distance of the great cities- Hunting Deer in the Adirondacks, Moose and Caribou in Maine and Canada, and Grizzly, Elk, and Pronghorn in the Rockies. (Munsey, v. 24:[42()]-i0, illus., Dec, 1900.) ' N. Y. s'. Gale, J. Thompson. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 57:66-67, July 27, 1901.) N.Y. P. Gibbs, A. D. A Trip to the Adirondacks and a Few Deductions Drawn Therefrom. (Field & Str., v. 11: 1031-32, Mar., 1907.) Hunting experiencees. N. Y. P. Grant, Madison. Adirondack Moose. (New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Report, 1901:234-38, pi.) Considers also the other game animals native to the region. N. Y. S. Grant, Madison. The Vanishing Moose. Mag. Art. No. 12. Grant, Madison. Notes on Adirondack Mammals with Special Reference to the Fur-Bearers. (New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Reports, 1902-03, 1904. p. 319-34, pi.) N. Y. S. Hastings, W. W. Deer Hunting Days in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., V. 52 : 302-03, illus., Apr. 22, 1899.) N. Y. P. Hermalin, D. M. Big Game Hunting for Poor Men ; Being a treatise on how a salaried man living in New York City may spend a two weeks' vacation, enjoy himself, and secure a deer, all for 50 dollars or less. (Forest & Str., V. 82:[37]-39, illus., Jan. 10, 1914.) Treats of Cranberry Lake region. N. i.P. Hermalin, D. M. Big Game Hunting in New York State. (Forest & Str., v. 78:236-37, illus., Feb. 24, 1912.) Hunting deer near Cranberry Lake. N. Y. 1 . Hermalin, D. M. The Last of the Monster; Being an episode about old and experienced hunters and a tenderfoot. . . . (Forest & Str., v. 83: 240-41, Aug. 22, 1914.) A deer hunting story from the Cranberry Lake region. N. Y. P. Higby, J. H. Adirondack Deer and Hounds. (Forest & Str., v. 52:246, Apr. 1,1899.) . N.\.P. Higby, J. H. Adirondack Wolves. (Forest & Str., v. 48: 304-05, Apr. l7, 1897.) 334 BIBLIOGRAPHY Hofer, T. E. Catching Beaver for the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str,, v. 69: 571-73, illus., Oct. 12, 1907.) Also tells of their distribution among Adirondack rivers and lakes. N. Y. P. Homaday, William T. Our Vanishing Wild Life; Its Extermination and Preservation. New York: N. Y. Zoological Soc, 1913. 411 p., illus., maps. 0. The Adirondack State Park, p. 347-48. N. Y. S. Hudson, William Lincoln. On the Trail of Old Mike. (Field & Str., v. 13: 405-10, illus., Sept., 1908.) An Adirondack Deer Story. N. Y. P. B., D. H. In the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 59 : 223, Sept. 20, 1902.) News Notes on Hunting. N. Y. P. In the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 54: 462, June 16, 1909.) Two letters — the first signed D. H. B., concerning Adirondack Moose question; the second on general Adirondack conditions, by Raymond S. Spears. N. Y. P. J., H. S. Adirondack Wolves. (Forest & Str., v. 48: 265, Apr. 3, 1897.) Inquiry as to presence of wolves, occasioned by an account of an encounter with wolves in the newspapers. N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Beavers. (Forest & Str., v. 73:131, July 24, 1909, illus.) Short note on work of the beavers near Blue Mountain Lake. N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Deer and Elk. (Forest & Str., v. 63: 8-9, July 2,1904.) N.Y.P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Deer and Woods. (Forest & Str., v. 55:267, Oct. 6, 1900.) Concerns State policy in the Adirondacks. N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Deer Hunting Conditions. (Forest & Str., v. 51:268, Oct. 1, 1898.) Comment on article of that title by J. B. Burnham. Juvenal, pseud. The Adirondack Deer Season. (Forest & Str., v. 67:614, Oct. 20, 1906.) N.Y.P. Juvenal, pseud. The Adirondack Man Killings. (Forest & Str., v. 59:350, Nov. 1, 1902.) Fatal Hunting Accidents. N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Notes. (Forest & Str., v. 57:446-47, Dec. 7, 1901.) Suggests a new law for hunting of Adirondack deer. N. Y. P. Lambert, W. S. A Fox Hunt in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 50 : 45, Jan. 15, 1898.) N.Y.P. The Last Adirondack Moose. (Forest & Str., v. 54: 405, May 26, 1900.) Two letters — one signed J. H. R. and other by J. L. Davison — Upon Moose in New York State during the late 'SO's. N. Y. P. The Last Adirondack Moose. (Forest & Str., v. 54:445, June 9, 1900.) N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 335 Learned, John A. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str. v 55-289 Oct 13,1900.) ' • ^'^•'^°y' ^«. Commends shortening of the Season. N Y P Lg. Adirondack Deer. ( Forest & Str., v. 57 : 487-88, Dec. 21, 1901. ) N. Y. P. Lock, Cap. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 62:48, Jan. 16, 1904.) N. Y. P. Mayo, E. W. A September Night in the Adirondacks. (Illus American v 20: 408-09, illus., Sept. 19, 1896.) Reminiscences of a deer hunt at night near Cranberry Lake. N. Y. P. Miller, Seaver A[sbury]. Adirondack Game Interests. (Forest & Str v 48:249, Mar. 27, 1897.) Comment upon legislation. N Y P Motisher, Robert W. Adirondack Deer Hounding. (Forest & Str, v 62- 67, Jan. 23, 1904.) In favor of a law permitting hounding. N. Y. P. Parkinson, Edward K. Adirondack Interests— Forests and Game on the Increase. (Forest & Str., v. 68: 216-17, illus., Feb. 9, 1907.) N. Y. P. Paulmier, Frederick C. The Squirrels and Other Rodents of the Adirondacks. (New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Reports, 1902-03.-1904. p. 335-51, pi.) N.Y.S. Pond, J. Warren. The Adirondack Deer Supply. (Forest & Str., v. 62: 272-73, Apr. 2, 1904.) N. Y. P. Preston, Emma A. A Woman Scores on Deer. (Field & Str., v. 11: [589], Oct., 1906.) Hunting along the Fulton Chain. N. Y. P. Radford, Harry V. Bringing Back the Beaver: Its Successful Reintroduc- tion to the Adirondack Region. (Four-Track News, April, 1906, illus.) Mentioned by the author in Annual Report of N. Y. Forest, Fish and Game Commission for 1904-06, p. 394. Radford, Harry V. Elk in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 66:226, Feb. 10,1906.) Tells of another offer of elk for re-stocking the Adirondack Forest. N. Y. P. Radford, Harry V., ed. Field and Stream— Adirondack Department, v. 6, no. 4, June, 1901— Aug., 1903, Nov., 1903— Mar., 1904, June & Aug., 1904. Illus. Title of department varies. It gave a great lot of general and miscellaneous information about Adirondack sport and legislation. N. Y. P. Radford, Harry V. History of the Adirondack Beaver (Castor Canadensis Kuhl.) ; Its Former Abundance, Practical Extermination, and Rointroduc- tion. (New York (St.) Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Re- ports, 1904-06. 1907 : 389^18, pi, maps.) N. Y. S. Radford, Harry V. Photographing a Loon's Nest. (Field & Str., v. 6: 284-85, illus., July, 1901.) Accompanied by a note on the Loon in the Adirondacks. N. Y. P. 336 BIBLIOGRAPHY Radford, Harry V. Restoration of King Moose. (Field & Str., v. 8:[225]- 27, illus., July, 1903.) Originally published in the June, 1903, number of "Four-Track News." N. Y. P. Radford, Harry V. The Sportsman and His Guide; An address delivered at the Annual Banquet of the Brown's Tract Guides' Association, at Old Forge, N. Y., Jan. 8, 1903. (Field & Str., v. 7:[691]-94, illus., Feb., 1903.) N.Y.P. Ransacker, pseud. The Wild and Woolly Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 62:146-47, Feb. 20, 1904.) Long-distance humorous shots a man from California makes at New Yorkers and the Adirondack bear question. N. Y. P. Redner, D. S., Jr. My First Still Hunt. (Field & Str., v. 7: 613-14, Jan., 1903.) Deer Hunting near Euba Mills. N. Y. P. Rice, Arthur F. Adirondack Deer and the Laws. (Forest & Str., v. 51: 287, Oct. 8, 1898.) N.Y.P. Rice, Arthur F. Practical Game Conservation: I. The Adirondacks. (Field & Str., V. 17:[741]-744, illus., Nov., 1912.) N. Y. P. Russell, Todd. Hunting the Adirondack Grouse. (Outing, v. 55:61-63, Oct., 1909.) Description of the forest preserve as a place for hunting. N. Y. S. Shaw, Joseph T. Our Adirondack Deer Hunt. (Field & Str., v. 18: [1183]-89, illus.. Mar., 1914. ) N. Y. P. Shekarry, Old, pseud. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 57: 512, Dec. 28, 1901.) N. Y. P. Shurter, Joseph W. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 55: 508, Dec. 29, 1900.) Concerns the length and time of the season for hunting deer. N. Y. P. Shurter, J [oseph] W. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 67 : 985, Dec. 22. 1906.) Concerning the deer law. N. Y. P. Shurter, Joseph W. Adirondack Deer Hunting. (Forest & Str., v. 62: 28, Jan. 9, 1904.) Followed by the statement of Peter Flint in the "Elizabethtown Post and Ga- zette." N. Y. P. Shurter, Joseph W. The Adirondack Deer Season. (Forest & Str., v. 69: 935, Dec. 14, 1907.) Advises changes in laws. N. Y. P. Smith, Ezra G. An Adirondack Deer Hunt. (Forest and Str., v. 56:244, Mar. 30, 1901.) N.Y.P. Spears, E[ldridge] A. Adirondack Beaver. (Forest & Str., v. 60:464-65, June 13, 1903.) Tells of signs of beaver along Indian River. N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 337 Spears, Eldridge A. Adirondack Game. (Forest & Str., v. 72-456 Mar 20,1906.) N.yp: Spears, John R. The Adirondack Bears. (Forest & Str. v 62-2'Sl-^9 Mar. 26, 1904.) • x o^, A plea for the protection of the bear in the Adirondacks. N. Y V Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Conditions. (Forest & Str v 71-455-50 Sept. 19, 1898.) v • • Treats of hunting prospects and of State policy toward the Adirondacks. N. Y. P. Spears, Ra>Tnond S. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v 59-467 Dec 13 1902.) ' ■ ' Review of season. N Y P Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v 65-370-71 Nov 4, 1905.) On the supply of game. N Y P Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Deer, Guides and Woodsmen. (Forest & Str., V. 51 : 305, 1898. ) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Game. (Forest & Str., v. 71:734-35, Nov. 7, 1908.) N.Y.p! Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Hounding. (Forest & Str., v. 52:109, Feb. 11, 1899.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Observations. (Forest & Str., v. 70: 496, Mar. 20, 1908.) Treats of the supply of game. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Bird Dogs in the North Woods. (Forest & Str., v. 75:654, Oct. 22, 1910.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. On an Adirondack Trap Line. (Forest & Str., v. 68: [528]"-30, illus., Apr. 6, 1907.) Trapping in the Adirondacks. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. The Season in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., V. 69:776, Nov. 16,1907.) Review of the hunting season. N. Y, P. Spears, Raymond S. That Adirondack Moose — One Point of View. (For- est and Str., v. 55 : 425-26, Dec. 1, 1900.) N. Y. P. Stanton. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 57:471, Dec. 14, 1901.) Discusses the law. N. Y. P. Sterling, Ernest A. The Return of the Beaver to the Adirondacks. (Amer. Forestry, v. 19: [292J-99, illus.. May, 1913.) N. Y. S. Stewart, H. Wolves in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 48:363, May 8, 1897.) Accompanied by a note signed C. H. D. N. Y. . That Adirondack Moose. (Forest & Str., v. 55: [361], Nov. 10, 1900.) Editorial showing that attempt to restock Adirondack forest with moose is foredoomed to failure. ^- ^' ' 338 BIBLIOGRAPHY Walsh, George Ethelbert. American Gam'e Preserves, (Outing, v. 37: [539]-44, iUus., Feb. 1901.) N.Y.S. Webb, Edward L. A Three Days' Deer Hunt. (Field & Str., v. 12: [488]- 89, Oct. 1907.) Near "one of the most beautiful chains of lak'es -in Northern New York." N. Y. P. Webber, C[harles] W[ilkins]. The Hunter Naturalist: Romance of Sport- ing; or. Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Co., 1852. 610 p., illus., pi. 0. Also published under title: Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters. Chap. XX. A Bird's-eye View of the Speculator [Mt. Speculator] : Wild Lakes of the Adirondack (sic), p, 472-81. Chap. XXI. Trolling in June [on Round Lake and Lake Pleasant], p. 482-91. Chap. XXII. A Night Hunt up the Cungamunck, p. 492-502. Chap. XXIII. Trouting on Jessup's River, p. 503-14. Chap. XXIV. Anecdotes of Moose and Deer Among Northern Lakes, p. 515-35. L.C. Webber, C[harles] W[ilkins]. Romance of Natural History: or. Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters. London: Nelson & Sons, 1852. 0. First published as The Hunter Naturalist. Chap. 17. Wild Lakes of the Adirondack. Chap. 18. Trouting in Jessup's River. Title from Westwood & Satcheli Webber, C[harles] W[ilkins]. Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters; or. The Romance of Sporting. Philadelphia: Claxton, Renisen & Haffelfinger, 1875. 610 p., illus., pi. D. Also published under the titles: The Hunter Naturalist; Romance of Natural History; Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters of the World. Chaps. XX-XXIV, p. 472-535. concern the Adirondacks. For titles of these chapters see entry under The Hunter Naturalist. L. C. Webber, C[harles] W[ilkins]. Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters of the World. Philadelphia: J. W. Bradley, 1852. 610. p., illus., pi. 0. Same as Wild Scenes and Wild Hunters, which see for contents note. L. C. West, Rodney. Deer Hounding Again, Or Not? (Forest & Str., v. 75: 975 & 1059 Ded. 17 & 31, 1910.) N. Y. P. West, Rodney. A Good Law for the Deer. (Field & Str., v. 12: [967], Mar. 1908.) Concerning the Adirondack Deer Law. N. Y. P. West, Rodney. How Adirondack Deer Wintered. (Forest & Str., v. 74: 498, Mar. 26, 1910.) N.Y.P. Westervelt, Dr. V. R. Adirondack Elk Increasing. (Field & Str., v. 12: 1069-70, Apr., 1908. ) N. Y. P. Westover, M. F. Moose and the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 71 : 254, illus., Aug. 15, 1908.) N.Y.P. Withington, L. A. A Deer Hunt in the Adirondacks. (Field & Str., v. 8: [545]-47, illus., Nov., 1903.) N.Y.P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 339 Wolcott, W. E. Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 55:307, Oct. 20, ■^^^^•^ N.Y.P. Wolcott, W. E. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str. v 59- 410 Nov 22 1902.) • ■ > A review of the season's hunt. \r v t> Wolcott, W. E. Adirondack Deer Hunting. (Forest & Str, v 65-454 Dec. 2, 1905.) ' • • . A review of the season. K Y P Wolcott, W. E. The Adirondack Deer Season. (Forest & Str , v 57-449 Nov. 26, 1904.) N.'y. p'. Wolcott, W. E. The Adirondack Deer Situation. (Forest & Str v 67- 414, Sept. 15, 1906.) 'n."y.p". Wolcott, W. E. "Them Big White Birds." (Forest & Str., v. 61:320, Oct. 24, 1903.) An Adirondack Deer Story. j^ Y P. Woodruff, Timothy L. The Adirondack Deer. (Forest & Str., v. 56: 69-70, Jan. 26, 1901. ) N. Y. P. Woodward, J. H. Protection of Deer in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 52 : 86, Feb. 4, 1899.) N. Y. P. FISHING Adirondack Fly Casts. (Forest & Str., v. 51: [21], July 9, 1898.) Comment on Adirondack Fly-Fishing. N. Y. P. Arthur, L. W. The Fight Among the Rocks and Shadows. (Field & Str., v. 16: [399]-400, Aug., 1911.) Fishing for brook trout near Long Pond. N. Y. P. Bachelor, Ward. "A Day in the North Woods." Mag. Art. No. 10. Lippin- cott's, 1887. Fish yarn — no historical value. Brandreth, Paulina. In Pursut of the Rainbow. (Field & Str., v. 9: [258] -59, July, 1904.) An Adirondack fishing story. N. Y. P. Bumham, J. T. In the Adirondacks. (Field & Str., v. 11 : 388, Aug., 1906.) Some fishing notes. N. \. P. Camilla, pseud. The Veteran's Pool. (Forest & Str., v. 60:112, Feb. 7, 1903.) Adirondack fishing story. N. Y. P. Cheney, A. N. The Adirondacks in Old Days. (Forest & Str., v. 54: 487-88, June 23, 1900.) Angling Reminiscences. ^- ^- ^■ Davis, Chas D. Fishing for Trout in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., V. 79:365, Sept. 21, 1912.) Fishing at Cranberry Lake. ^- ^- ^- 340 BIBLIOGRAPHY Davison, J. L. Big Trout in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 63:76, July 23, 1904.) N. Y. P. Davison, J. L. In the Adirondacks in 1858. (Forest & Str., v. 76: [613] -14, Apr. 22, 1911.) Along the Racket River. N. Y. P. Dawson, George. Angling Talks; being the Winter talks on Summer pas- •times contributed to the "Forest and Stream." New York: Forest & Str. Pub. Co., 1883. 78 p. D. (Forest and Stream Series.) Contents chiefly concern angling in the Adirondack lakes and rivers. N. Y. P. Dodd, Mark D[ixon]. Adirondack Trout. (Forest & Str., v. 76:19-20, Jan. 7, 1911.) Particularly refers to Canachagala Creek, a tributary of Moose River. N. Y. P. Dominick, Geo. F., Jr. Adirondack Notes, 2 pts. (Forest & Str., v. 60: 308, Apr. 18, 1903; v. 60: 350, May 2, 1903.) Notes of a Fishing Trip. N. Y. P. Flint, Peter. Are Game Fish Increasing in the Adirondacks, and Where? — A Serious Question confronting the Conservation Commission. (Forest & Str., V. 82 : 9-10, 28, Jan. 23, 1914. ) N. Y. P. Fuller, A. R. Pickerel in the Adirondacks. (In: New York (St.) Fish- eries Commissioners. 21st Annual Report, 1891. 92:132-34.) N. Y. S. Glynn's, Martin H., First Trout; For a few delightful days in the Adiron- dacks the Governor forgot the Cares of State and became a confirmed dis- ciple of Izaak Walton. (Forest & Str., v. 83: [331J-32, illus., Sept. 12, 1914.) N.Y.P. Green, Charles A. From the Adirondack Mountains. (Forest & Str., v. 73:19, July 3, 1909.) Notes of a fishing trip. N. Y. P. McHarg, John B., Jr. An Adirondack Trout Record. (Forest & Str., v. 52: 468-69, illus., June 17, 1899.) N. Y. P. Matlier, Fred. Modem Fish Culture in Fresh and Salt Water. New York: Forest & Str. Pub. Co., 1900. 333 p., illus., pi. D. Adirondack Frost Fish, p. 208-10. L. C. Mather, Fred. My Angling Friends; Being a Second Series of Sketches of Men I Have Fished With. (New York: Forest and Str. Pub. Co., [1901]. 369 p., port. 0.) (Forest & Stream Library.) Much of the book is devoted to fishing experiences in the Adirondacks. L. C. Mather, Fred (Zoology.) Memoranda relating to Adirondack fishes, with descriptions of new species, from researches made in 1882. Albany: Weed, Parsons & Co., 1886. 56 p. pi. 0. A preprint. From the appendix to the 12th report of the Adirondack State Land Survey. A revision of this report is in: New York (St.) Fisheries Commissioners, ISth Annual Report, 1888-89; [1241-82. N. Y. S.; L. C. May, Geo. B. Large Adirondack Trout. (Forest & Str., v. 57:9, July 6, 190L) Tells of a big catch in Piseco Lake. N. Y. P i BIBLIOGRAPHY 34X Miller, Ben. In the Adirondaeks: Experiences and Impressions of a South- ern Angler upon his First Visit to tlie North Woods. (Field & Str v 13: 19-22, iUus., May, 1908.) At Raquette Lake. ., ,, ^ ^ Js . Y. P. Noi-ris, Thaddeus. The American Angler's Book: Embracing the natural history of sporting fish, and the art of taking them ... to which is added, Dies piscatorise : Describing noted fishing places . . . ; new ed. . . . Phila- delphia : Porter & Coates, [el864]. xxiii, [2], 27-701 p., illus., pL 0. Trout Fishing in the Adirondaeks, p. [545]-64, 668-69. ' N. Y. P Northrup, A. Judd. Fishes and Fishing in the Adirondaeks from the Sports- man's Point of View. (New York (St.). Forest, Fish and Game Com- mission. Annual Reports, 1902-03. 1904. p. 275-94, pi.) N. Y. S, Piscator, pseud. Tenderfeet in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 50- 383, May 14, 1898.) N. Y. P. Richmond, W. L. An Adirondack Memory. (Field & Str., v. 13: [1082]-84, illus., Apr., 1909.) Fishing along and near Moose River. N. Y. P. Scott, Genio C. Fishing in American Waters; New Ed. . . . New York: Harper, 1875. xiv, [17] -539 p. illus. D. Red trout of Long Lake, p. 261-63. N. Y'. P. Spears, R[aymond] S. Adirondack Fishing. (Forest & Str., v. 74:859-60, May 28, 1910.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. Effect of Automobile and Motor Cyle on Fishing Con- ditions. (Forest & Str., v. 83: 112, illus., July 25, 1914.) Shows that these agencies have been chief cause for the reduction of the supply of fish in Adirondack waters. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Fishing in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 72: 898, June 5, 1909.) Review of conditions. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Some Adirondack Gossip. (Forest & Str., v. 70: 981, June 20, 1908.) Fishing notes. N. Y. P. Wheeler, Arthur Leslie. Around the Sawtooth Range : Ten Days' Tramping and Trout Fishing in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 73: [97]-98, [137J-39, illus., July 17 & 24, 1909.) N. Y. P. Winans, Richard M. An Au Sable Champion. (Outing, v. 57: 481-89, illus., Jan., 191L) Fishing experiences along the Ausable. N. Y.S. Wolcott, W. E. The Adirondack Fish Mortality. (Forest & Str., v. 61: 10, July 4, 1903.) Advances the theory that forest fires are the chief reason for the destruction N V P of fish in Adirondack streams. •^''- ^•^• Wolcott, W. E. Adirondack Fishing. (Forest & Str., v. 58: 447, June 7, 1902.) ^.Y.^. 342 BIBLIOGRAPHY Woleott, W. E. Adirondack Trout. (Forest & Str., v. 59:10, July 5, 1902.) N.Y.P. Woleott, W. E. Adirondack Trout. (Forest & Str., v. 62:317, Apr. 16, 1904.) N.Y.P. Woleott, W. E. The Adirondack Trout Season. (Forest & Str., v. 61: 182, Sept. 5, 1903.) N.Y.P. FOREST The Adirondack Forest. (Forest & Str., v. 55: [41], July 21, 1900.) On management of the forest preserve. N. Y. P. Adirondack Forest Interests. (Forest & Str., v. 48: [201], Mar. 13, 1897.) Editorial. N. Y.P. The Adirondack Forest Preserve in Danger. (Outlook, v. 85:589-90, Mar. 16, 1907.) Editorial. N. Y. S. The Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., v. 57: [61], July 27, 1901.) Editorial. N. Y.P. The Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., v. 58: [101], Feb. 8, 1902.) Editorial. N. Y.P. The Adirondack Forest. (Forest & Str., v. 58: [221], Mar. 22, 1902.) Editorial. N. Y.P. Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., v. 62: [41], Jan. 16, 1904.) Editorial. N. Y.P. Adirondack Timber Thieves. (Forest & Str., v. 64: [229], Mar. 29, 1905.) Editorial. N. Y. P. The Adirondack Woods Still in Peril. (Harper's Wkly., v. 28, No. 1420: 150, Mar. 8, 1884.) Editorial. N. Y. S. Boardman, William H. The Lovers of the Woods. New York: McClure, Phillips & Co., 1901. viii, 239 p., pi. D. Contents: Lost. — Children of the Stream. — A Man with an Ax. — ^The Two Lens. — Tlie Prairie Boy. — Colonel Warren. — George's Memory. — A Chapter of Accidents. — -John's Cakes. — The Minister. — "He Came Into His 0^\^l." "One of the most valuable contributions to the literature of the Adirondacks which has appeared since the days of Murray." H. V. Radford. N. Y. P. Bowman, Isaiah. Forest Physiography; Physiography of the United States and Principles of Soils in Relation to Forestry. New York: J. Wiley & Sons, 1911. xxii, 759 p., illus. Maps. Adirondack Mountains, p. 578-84. Contents: Geologic Structure. — Topography and Drainage. — Glacial Eflfects. — Climate and Forests. N. Y. S. Breck, Edward. The Way of the Woods; A Manual for Sportsmen in Northeastern United States and Canada. New York: Putnams, 1908. 436 p., illus., pi. D. BIBLIOGRAPHY 343 ''Concise yet thorough and authoritative information on every eubject con- nected with life m the North Woods." j^ Y " Brown, Elon R. The Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Sir. v 63- S41 dot 22, 1904.) ■ * ' Defends Legislature and its Fish and Game Laws. N Y P Brown, George L. Fire Breaks in Essex County. (Forest & Str v 71 • 938, Dee. 12, 1908.) '' Urges further fire protection for the Adirondack Forests. N Y. P Canada, Conservation Commission, Committee on Forests. Forest Protec- tion in Canada, 1912, by Clyde Leavitt. Toronto, 1913. 174 p pi Map Q. l-'^-v H- Part III. The Top-Lopping Law in the Adirondacks, p 60-86. Part IV The use of Oil as Locomotive Fuel from a Fire Protective Point of View: Situation in the Adirondacks, p. 96-102 L. C. Carl, David. The Adirondack Forest Again. (Forest & str., v 67-170-71 Aug. 4, 190G.) Against the storage project. N Y P Carl, David. The Adirondack Park. (Forest & Str., v. 58:104, Feb. 8, 1902.) N.Y.P. Carl, David. Flooding the Adirondack Park, (Forest & Str., v. 74:456, Mar. 19, 1909.) Against the storage project. N. Y. P. Colvin, Verplanck. Speech Delivered at the Annual Banquet of the New York Board of Trade and Transportation, Hotel Brunswick, New York, Washington's Birthday, 1885, in Response to the Toast — "The Adiron- dacks — The Land of Magnificent Mountains and Lovely Lakes; the Source of the Hudson River, the Feeder of Our Canals." New York: G. F. Nesbit & Co., printers, 1885. 8 p. 0. L. C. Cook, Joel. America, Picturesque and Descriptive. Philadelphia: H. T. Coates & Co., 1900. 3 v.. pi. D. Chap. XII. The Adirondacks and their Attendant Lakes, v. 2: 271-326. L C. Cornell's Adirondack Forestry. (Forest & Str., v. 57:501, Dec. 28, 1901.) Review of Cornell College of Forestry Case. N. Y. P. Donaldson, Alfred L[ee]. Forest Fires and' Their Prevention. (Outlook, V. 90:876-78, Dec. 19, 1908.) A review of the matter of forest fires in the Adirondacks showing their disas- trous results and with some suggestions for the prevention of their recur- rence. ^'- ^- ^• Femow, B[ernhard] E[duard]. Adirondack Forestry Problems. (New York (St.) Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission. Annual Report, 1898: 354-66, pi.) N. Y. S. Femow, B[ernhard] E[duard]. Adirondack Forestry Problems. (For- ester, V. 6: [229J-34, Oct. 1900.) Paper read at the 1900 Meeting of the American Forestry Association. N. Y. P. 344 BIBLIOGRAPHY Fernow, B[ernliarcl] E[duard]. The Adirondacks. (Outlook, v. 85: 624-25, Mar. 16, 1907.) Communication showing why the sporting clubs oppose the storage reservoir project. N. Y. S. Fernow, B[ernhard] E[duard]. Beginnings of Professional Forestry in the Adirondacks; [being the 1st and 2d Annual Reports of the Director of the N. Y. State College of Forestry, Cornell Univ.]. (New York (St.). Fish- eries, Game and Forest Commission. Annual Report, 1899:401-52, pi.) same. (N. Y. State College of Forestry. Bull. 2, Feb., 1900. 56 p.) Describes work at college forest at Axton, N. Y. N. Y. S. [Fernow, Bernhard Eduard.] Forestry in New York State. (Science, n. s. V. 15 : 91-96, Jan. 17, 1902. ) N. Y. S. Fernow, B[emliard] E[duard]. Practical Forestry in the Adirondacks. (Sci. Amer. Suppl., v. 51: 21116-17, Mar. 30, 1901.) Sensible treatment of question by an expert forester. N. Y. S. Fernow, B[ernhard] E[duard]. Progress of Forest Management in the Adirondacks. Ithaca, N. Y., 1901. 40 p. D. (N. Y. State College of Forestry. Bull. 3, Mar., 1901.) Being the 3d Annual Report of the Director of the State College of Forestry at Cornell University, describing particularly the work at the college forest, Axton, N. Y. N. Y. S. Forestry for the New York Preserve. (Forester, v. 6:164-65, July, 1900.) Tells of work planned by Division of Forestry of the U. S. Dept. of Agricul- ture. N. Y. P. Fox, W[illiam] F[reeman]. Forest Fires of 1903. Albany, 1904, 55 p., pi. Q. (New York (St.). Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Bulle- tin [unnumbered.] ) Refers to the New York State Forest Preserves of the Adirondacks and Catskill regions. Title from Hasse. Fox, William F[rceman]. A History of the Lumber Industry in the State of New York. Washington, 1902: 59 p., pi. 0. (U. S. Forestry Bur. Bull. 34.) Same. (New York (St.). Forest, Fish and Game Commission. An- nual Report, 1900 : 237-305, pi.) Almost entirely devoted to the North Woods. N. Y. S. Gaylord, F. A. Forestry and Forest Resources in New York. Albany, 1912. 58 p., pi. 0. (New York (St.). Conservation Commission. Bull. 1.) Much general and statistical material concerning the Adirondack Forest. Graves, Henry S. Practical Forestry in the Adirondacks, Washington, 1899. 85 p., pi., maps. 0. (U. S. Forestry Div. Bulletin, No. 26.) "An account of the general conditions which govern forest management in the Adirondacks." Preface. N. Y. S. Hoffman, F. von. The Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., v. 58:189, Mar. 8, 1902.) N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 345 Hosmer, Ralph S., & Bruce, Eugene S. A Forest Working PInn for the Townships 5, 6 and 41, Totten and Crossfield Purchase, Hamilton County, New York State Forest Preserve. (New York (St.). Forest, Fish and Game Commission. Annual Reports, 1902-03. 1904. p. 373-45G, pi., fald. map.) "A definite and comprehensive plan by which a certain part of the Adirondack Forest Preserve may he managed in accordance with the principles of practical forestry " — Introd. X y S, Hosmer, Ralph S., & Bruce, Eugene S. A Forest Working Plan for Town- ship 40, Totten and Crosstield Purchase, Hamilton County, New York State Forest Preserve; preceded hy: A Discussion of .Conservative Lum- bering and -the Water Supply, by Frederick H. Newell. Washington, 1901, 64 p., pL.maps. 0. (U. S. Forestry Div. Bull. No. 30.) Same. (New York (St.). Forest, Fish and Game Commission. An- nual.Report, 1900 : [157] -236, pi., maps.) N Y. S. Hough, Franklin B[enjamin]. Address by Dr. Franklin B. Hough, on State Forest Management, before the Committee on the Preservation of the Adirondack Forests of the Chamber of Commerce of the State of New York, January 14, 1884, New York, 1884. 13 p. 0. L. C. Hough, Franklin B[enjamin]. A Catalogue of the Indigenous, Naturalized, and Filicoid Plants, of Lewis County; Arranged according to the Natural Method adopted by Professor Torrey, in the State Catalogue. (In the 59th Annual Report of -the Regents of the University of the State of New York, Sen. doc. 1846, No. 71, p. [249] -83.) Also separately printed, Al- bany, 1846. 35 p. 0. N. Y. S. Hough, Franklin, B[enjamin]. Report upon Forestry Prepared under the Direction of the Commissioner of Agriculture, in Pursuance of an Act of Congress Approved August 15, 1876. Washington: Govt. Print. Off., 187&-82. 4 V. 0. The lumber region of Northern New York; The proposed Adirondack Park; Glens Falls and the lutnber interests of the upper Hudson, [v. 1], p 436-41. N. Y. S Howard, William G. Forest Fires. Albany, 1914. 52 p. pi. 0. (New York (St.). Conservation Commission. Bull. 10.) A general bulletin 'on the subject but one containing more especial information applicable to the Jireat forest preserves of the Adirondack and Catskill regions. ^ » r N.Y.S. Jordan, D. A. Concerning the Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., v. 58: 104, Feb. 8, 1902.) ^'•^'^• Juvenal, pseud. Lumbering in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 67: 939, illus., Dee. 15, 1906.) N. Y. P. Kirkhara, Stanton Davis. East and West: Comparative Studies of Nature in Eastern and Western States. New York: Putnams, 1911. x p., i 1., 280 p. pi. D. Chap. ITI. The Wilderness, p. 42-57. 346 BIBLIOGRAPHY Chap. IV. Still-paddling, p. 58-70. Descriptions of Adirondack Forest and Lakes. N. Y.S. Knecbtel, A. Forest Fires in the Adirondacks. (Forestry Quar. v. 2:-2- 13, Nov., 1903.) L.C. Kneehtel, A. Natural Reproduction in the Adirondack Forests. (For- estry Quar., V. 1:50-55, Jan., 1903.) L.C. Leggett, Edward H. The State's Title to Lands in the Forest Preserve. (New York (St.). Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission. Annual Re- port, 1897:438-54.) Review of liti,2;ation over Adirondack forest lands in the New Yorlc courts in 1897. N. Y. S McCIurc, David. Speech on the Proposed Amendment to the New York State Constitution relative to the Forest Preserve. (In: N. Y. State Con- stitutional Conv.. 1894. Revised Record, v. 4:124-63, pub. in 1900.) Includes discussion. N. Y. S. New York Board of Trade and Transportation. Forestry Committee. Memorial Addressed to Legislature of the State of New York setting fortli the convincing reasons for the rejection of the measures to open the State Forest Preserve to the lumberman. (Forest & Str., v. 58:224-25, Mar. 22,1902.) N.Y. P. New York State Forestry Association. Bulletin, July, 1914-date, v. 1, No. 1— [Syracuse N. Y.] 1914-date. 0. A quarterly magazine devoted to the "various phases of forestry activity in the Empire State." Chief purpose is to stimulate interest in the protection of the great State Forest Preserves in the Adirondacks and the Catskills. N. Y. S. The Nortli Woods. (Garden & Forest, v. 10: 21, Jan. 20, 1897.) Editorial comment upon Governor Black's message upon the Adirondacks. N. Y P Parker, Clarence L. Adirondack Forest Protection. (Forest & Str., v. 68: 334-35, Mar. 2, 1907.) Tteviews recent attempts at Forest Preserve Legislation in the New York Legis- lature. N. Y. P. Peck, Charles H. Report on the Character of Forests and Soil of Certain Tracts of State Lands in the Adirondack Region. (In: N. Y. State Land Survey Report [for 1896]. 1897. p. [517] -53, this report being Sen. Doc, 1898, No. 54.) N. Y S. Pettis, C. R. Possible Advantages to the State of New York by Opening the Forest Preserves. (Society of Amer. Foresters. Proc, v. 8:197- 201, July, 1913.) Reviews legislation concerning Adirondack Preserve and shows that a rigid construction of Constitution is not best for proper treatment of the State Forests. L C. Pinchot, Gifford. The Adirondack Spruce; A Study of the Forest in Ne-ha-sa-ne Park with tables of volume and yield and a working plan for BIBLIOGRAPHY 347 conservative lumbering. New York: The Critic Co., 1898. [ix], 157 p., pi. map. T. j^ Y. S. Pincbot, Giftord. Forest Conservation in tbe Adirondacks. [New York 1911.] 10 p. 0. Title from caption. j^t y. p. Pincbot, Gifford. Pincbot on tbe Adirondack Problem. (Forest & Str., V. 77: 837-39, 856, Dee. 9, 1911.) Also in Field & Sir., v. 16:[949]-55, Jan., 1912, with the title: The Adirondack Forest Problem. This is a report made to the Campfire Club of America. N. Y. P. Pincbot, Gifford. Public or Private Interests? (Outlook, v. 100:729-31, Mar. 30, 1912.) A plea for Forest Conservation in the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Pincbot, Gifford. Working Plans for tbe New York Forest Preserve. (Out- ing, V. 36 : 89-90, Apr., 1900.) N. Y S. Price, Overton W. Studying tbe Adirondack Forest. (Forester, v. 6:19- 20, Jan., 1900.) Account of work done on a working plan for the tract of the St. Regis Paper Co., situated in Franklin Co., Now Y'ork. N. Y. P. Price, Overton W. Working Plans for tbe State Preserve. (New York (St.). Fisberies, Game and Forest Commission. Annual Report, 1898: 418-422, pi.) Discussion of a plan for the forest management of Township 40, Totten & Cross- field Purchase, then being drawn up by the U. S. Forestry Division. N. Y. S. [Pringle, C. G.] [Extracts from Report upon tbe Forests of Northern New York]. (In: U. S. Census Off. lOtb Census of tbe U. S. (1880), v. 9: 501-06, Pub. 1884.) Forms part of the special report on the Forests of North America (exclusive of Mexico), by Charles S. Sargent. N. Y. S. Purdy, Fred Leslie. Adirondack Fires and Preserves. (Forest & Str., v. 72 i 14-15, Jan. 2, 1900.) ^'- Y- P. Reynolds, Cuyler. Forest Preservation in tbe State of New York. (New Eng. Mag., n. s., v. 19: 203-16, illus., Oct., 1898.) New Y'ork's efforts to preserve the Adirondacks: Importance of region to the State and the lumber industry of the North Woods. N. Y. S. Save tbe Adirondacks. (Outlook, v. 81: 1053-54, Dec. 30, 1905.) Editorial calling attention to spoliation of the Adirondack forests by lumbering operations. >>. Y. fe. Scbwartz, G. Frederick. Tbe Adirondacks are a .Park, not a Timber Re- serve: A Letter . . . (Forestry & Irrigation, v. 13: [601], Nov., 1907.) N. Y. S. Sears, Jobn H. Notes on tbe Forest Trees of Essex, Clinton and Franklin Counties, New York. (Essex Inst., Salem, Mass. Bull., v. 13:174-88, 1882.) Title from a bibliography of Forestry in Annual Report of New York St. Forest Com'n., 1885, and from Royal Soc. Cat. Set. pap. 348 BIBLIOGRAPHY Shurter, Joseph W. Gamo Preserves and Adirondack Ruin. (Forest & Str., V. 61 : 46, July 18, 1903.) N. Y. P. Spears, E[ldridge] A. Forest Fires in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., V. 71:138, July 25, 1908.) Reviews fires of season and discusses means of protection. N. Y. P. Spears, John R. The Destruction of the Adirondack Forests. (Forest & Str., V. 58 : 144-45, Feb. 22, 1902.) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Notes. (Field & Str., v. 11 : 505-06, Sept., 1906.) A criticism of the management of the Cornell College of Forestry Tract. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Ruin. (Forest & Str., v. 60:465, June 13, 1903.) Showing that the origin of some forest fires is traceable to spite against the holders of private preserves. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Timber Thefts. (Forest & Str., v. 70: 538, Apr. 4, 1908.) Comment on the conviction of Klock & Gaylord. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Trails. (Forest & Str., v. 51:22-23, July 9, 1898.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raj-mond S. Prof. Fernow and the Adirondaeks. (Outlook, v. 85 : 815-16, April 6, 1906.) Letter dealing with the experiments of the State College of Forestry in the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. Sterling, E[mest] A. A Definite State Policy: New York State's Progress in Reforesting the Adirondraeks. (Amer. Forestry, v. 18:421-30, illus., July, 1912.) N.Y.S. Suter, H. M. Forest Fires in Adirondaeks in 1903. Washington, 1904. 15 p., map. 0. (U. S. Forestry Bur. [circular 26].) Also published as Publication, No. 5, of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. To Flood Adirondack Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 68: [87], Jan. 19, 1907.) Editorial showing the dangers of the water storage project. N. Y. P. The Water Storage Grab in New York State. (Outlook, v. 85: 867-68, Apr. 20, 1907.) Editorial opposing the proposed storage reservoirs in the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. Whitford, David E. Water Supply from the Adirondack Forest. (In: N. Y. State Engineer and Surveyor. Annual Report, 1898: [445]-566, diagr.) N.Y.S. Wolcott, W. E. The Adirondack Forest. (Forest & Str., v. 58:65, Jan. 25,1902.) N.Y.P Wolcott, W. E. Camps on State Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 61:223, Sept. 19,1903.) Policy of State concerning those who have erected camps on the State's Adiron- dack lands. N. Y. P. BIBLIOGRAPHY 349 MISCELLANEOUS Adam, Rev. Samuel F. Adirondacks. (Outlook, v. 85:625-620 Mar 16 1907.) ■ ' Communication which attempts to prove that storage project would bo an effective means of preventing forest fires. N Y S Adirondack Camps. (Forest & Str., v. 70: [847], May 30, 1908.) Editorial. N Y P Adirondack Guides Association. Proceedings of annual meeting, 1894-date. (Forest & Str., 1894-date.) Meeting is held at Saranac Lake in January or February of each year. Ac- count of the proceedings is usually found in next issue of Forest and Stream. N. Y. P. Adirondack Land Sales. (Forest & Str., v. 65: [385], Nov. 11, 1905.) Editorial. j^t y. p. An Adirondack Night Experience. (Forest & Str., v. 51:223, Sept. 17, 1898.) Still-hunting Experiences. N. Y. P. Adirondack Preserves. (Forest & Str., v. 53:47, July 15, 1899.) Describes the Rockefeller Preserves. N. Y. P. Adirondack Preserves. (Forest & Str., v. 60: [161], Feb. 28, 1903.) Editorial commending care taken of the Private Preserves. N. Y. P. Adirondack Rivers and Lumbermen. (Forest & Str., v. 52:464, June 17, 1899.) Reprinted from the Albany Journal of June 7, l.SOO. N. Y. P. Adirondack State Land Sales. (Forest & Str., v. 65:388-89, Nov. 11, 1905.) N.Y.P. Adirondack State Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 65 : 248, Sept. 23, 1905.) Three contributions. X. Y. P. The Adirondack Water Grab. (Field & Str., v. 11:1042, Mar., 1907.) Editorial. N. Y. P. The Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 60: [181], Mar. 7, 1903.) Editorial showing importance of vast Summer and Autumn Tourist Business of the North Woods. N. Y. P. Aesthetic and Sanitary vs. Commercial Values. (Outlook, v. 83:401, June 23, 1906.) Editorial showing that Adirondacks cannot be a storage reservoir and great summer resort at the same time. N. Y. S. Andrews, Mary R. S. "A Woman in Camp." Mag. Art. No. 13. (Outing. No date.) No historical value. Another Adirondack Tragedy. (Forest & Str., v. 55: [241], Sept. 29, 1900.) Editorial commenting on the accidental shooting of Mrs. Kerr and Dr. Bailey on the Tahawus Club Preserve in Essex Co. N. \ . P. 350 BIBLIOGEAPHY ^^rHa^ltti^rt' ""''"■ '^°'-' ^ «''■' - =«^ !261], Apr. 5, 1002, t/i:::\sis'rr ''''""" °' ^"'* '- •^-'- ^-""' °^ ««'- 1865\„/ , to Jol>n Bm,v„'s grave. Dated Saranac Lake, July 27 1»05, and addressed to Mrs. H— (In- Hoist TT ,™ t i d ed. tc 1888] p. 107-203, pi., ' "°'"' "^^ "'"'■ '"'"' ^^l""^^^ '^^ ""Z'tmt '' """°'™ ''°°'""'- '^°"^' '^ S'-' V. 83;482-87; The Summit of Owl's Head. "^i-t3;':;„!;"2riooi:r"" "■ "^ ^''™'=''^- '^"-^' * «''■-"««'' Descriptions and Impressions. "w::^;.f.t..NXooftrrr' " '"^ ^^'™-»- -'=- 'o*24?i0^8.,^"'-""""""'^ '--'■ <^°-' * «'^- >■• ^^-^S. iL! 'mur:i'*7,*i807'; ^*™°'''^ '™'"'"- <'"-■ '^-''-". ^- 2':i83; Describes Adirondack camp life. 't Moi) °™^ '° "" ^•'■'°"''='^^- <^"-' * S'-. V. 67:21l!''I„g; Account of ascent of several of the great peak, of the Adirondack, MariOOoT°"' "'""^ "' "' ^*™"'^"'^- '^"P- «''• »'°-' - 57: 40^7, Reprinted from "Town Topics." Cheney, A. N. Some Boyhood Memories : YII. A First Visit to ih. ^A^ ^' dacks. (Forest & Str., v. 56: 304, Apr. 20, 1901.) ' '" ''' t rP^ BIBLIOGRAPHY 351 Commercializing the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str v 74 -618 Anr ir 1910.) > • ■ , -apr. J.D, Upon the storage project. v v t> Covert, Byron V. Three Weeks in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str v 56: 487, June 22, 1901.) jj Y p' Cruikshank, James A. Looping the Adirondaeks. (Field & Str v 7- [237]-[241], illus., July, 1902.) ''n. y. P. Davison, J. L. The Adirondaeks of 1858 and 1888. (Forest & Str v80- 300-01, Mar. 8, 1913.) '^'y, p. Dewey, Melvil. The Tonic of the Winter Woods. (Independent, v 81- 201-04, Feb. 8, 1915, illus.) Adirondaeks in Winter. N Y S DeWitt, William G. Adirondack Streams Menaced. (Forest & Str., v. 58: 270, Apr. 5, 1902.) N.Y.P. Dix, William Frederick. Summer Life in Luxurious Adirondack Camps. (Independent, v. 55: 1556-62, illus., July 2, 1903.) Description of some of the more elaborate summer homes and camps in the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. Dobson, B. A. "Come Again in Hunting Time"; A Novice's First Trip to the Woods, as Told by Himself. (Field & Str., v. 12: [217J-224, illus., July, 1907.) Humorous account of a tenderfoot's experience aroimd Cranberry Lake. N. Y. P. Dyer, Walter A. Camping in the Adirondaeks. (Country Life in America, V. 8:344-45, July, 1905.) Experiences in camp at upper end of Long Lake. N. Y. S. Eaton, Elon Howard. Birds of New York. Albany, 1910-14. 2 v., illus., pi. maps. Q. (N. Y. State Museum. Memoir 12.) The Mt. Marcy Region, v. 1, p. 42-50. N. Y. S. Ellis, Harvey. An Adirondack Camp. (Craftsman, v. 4:281-84, illus., July, 1903.) Working plans and specifications for an ideal summer home in the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. Fences in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 61: 7, July 4, 1903.) Two contributions, one signed "Didymus" and other by Raymond S. Spears, treating of private preserve question. N. Y. P. [Ferris, George Titus, comp]. Our Native Land; or, Glances at American Scenery and Places, with Sketches of Life and Adventure. New York: D. Appleton & Co., [cl882]. xvi, 615 p., illus. Q. The Adirondack Mountains, p. 342-50. L. C. Flint, Peter. The Famous Land of Leatherstoeking. (Forest & Str., v. 81 : 510-11, Oct. 18, 1913.) Eagle, Paradox, Pyramid Lakes and surrounding country. N. Y. P. 352 BIBLIOGRAPHY Flint, Peter. Uncle Oliver and the Moose; An Adirondack Story. (For- est & Str., V. 52: 183, Mar. 11, 1899.) A story of the year 1845. N. Y. P. Fouquet, L. M. Lake Champlain, Lake George; The Adirondacks, Lake Memphremagog, and Mount Mansfield. Burlington, Vt. : R. S. Styles, 1867. 60 p., maps. S. N. Y. P. Gianini, Charles A. Birds in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 78: 243, illus., Feb. 24, 1912.) N. Y. P. Gleason, A. W. Notes by an Adirondack Tramp. (Field & Str., v. 7: [72] -76, May, 1902.) N.Y.P. Great North Woods. (World's Work, v. 4: 2390-94, illus., Aug., 1902.) Forms part of an article "A Commonwealth of Resorts" by Walter H. Page and others. Treats of the Adirondacks as a summer resort. N. Y. S. Hands Off the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 77: 844, Dec. 9, 1911.) Editorial. N. Y. P. Harte, W. B. "By Stage-Coaeh in the Adirondacks." Mag. Art. 13. Hastings, W. W. Around and About a New Adirondack Camp. (Forest & Str., V. 53: 422-23, Nov. 25, 1899.) N. Y. P. Hastings, W. W. A Few Days in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 52: 2-3, Jan. 7, 1899.) N.Y.P. Hilliker, G. W. The Adirondacks' Northern Slope. (Forest & Str., v. 53: 410, Nov. 18, 1899.) N.Y.P. Howland, Harold J. A Winter Tramp in the North Woods. (Outlook, v. 80: 283-96, illus., June 3, 1905.) Snowshoe Journey through Indian and Avalanche passes. K. Y. S. Hubbard, Leonidas, Jr. Afoot in Nature's Game Preserve, the Adirondack Park Region. (Outinir, v. 37:196-[201], illus., Nov., 1900.) Trip through heart of the Adirondack Country and a short history of the estab- lishment of the park. N. Y. S. Hughes, Charles E[vans]. Conservation of Natural Resources in the State of New York. (In Conference of Governors. Proceedings, 1908: 314-30.) Eeprintod in R. S. Reinsch's Readings on 'American State Government. 1911. p. 271-84. The greater portion of this address refers to the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Huntington, Adelaide. A Walking Trip Through the Adirondacks: How Plans for a Long-Cherished Vacation Were Carried Out by "Two-a- foot"-Adventures in Finding Bed and Board. (Suburban Life, v. 15: 81-82, illus., Aug., 1912.) From Blue Mountain Lake Village to Lake George. N. Y. S. In the Adirondacks. (Harp. Wkly., v. 46:892-94, illus., July 12, 1903.) Description of Adirondack Home Life, with some bits of interesting con- versation. N. Y. S. Ives, H. L. Some Adirondack Preserves. (Forest & Str., v. 50:406, May 21, 1898.) BIBLIOGRAPHY 353 Short history of the following game preserves: Vanderbilt Preserve- Vilas Preserve; Cutting Tract; Granshru Preserve; Hollywood Preserve; Massawepie Club ; and otliers. Also an account of a bear hunt. X. Y P Ives, Martin V[an Buren]. Through the Adirondacks in 18 Days. 119 p pL, port. (N. Y. (St.) Assembly doc, 1899, No. 43, appendix. ) Also pub- lished separately, Albany, 1899. 0. A very thorough survey of the scenic grandeur of the region as well as of its legendary and historical associations. Profusely illustrated. N. Y. S. "Jack" pseud. Through North Woods by Canoe. (Forest & Str., v 78- 687-88, 719-20, illus., June 1 & 8, 1912. ) N. Y. I'. Johnson, Clifton. Highways and Byways from the St. Lawrence to Vir- ginia. New York: Macmillan, 1913. [xii], 340 p., pi. D. Chap. I. The Adirondack Winter, p. [l]-25. Describes stay at Lake Placid. N. Y. S. Johnson, Clifton. New England and Its Neighbors. New York : Macmillan, 1902. XV. 335 p., illus., pi. D. Chap. IV, In the Adirondacks, p. 70-105. A summer trip into the Adiron- dacks. j^T Y. s. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Conditions, (Forest & Str., v. 65:406, Nov. 18, 1905.) State lands problem and general conditions. N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Notes. (Forest & Str,, v, 58:505, June 28, 1902.) N. Y.P. Juvenal, pseud. Adirondack Notes, (Forest & Str., v, 60:483, June 20, 1903.) N.Y.P. Juvenal, pseud. The Adirondacks in 1898, (Forest & Str., v. 51:262-63, Oct. 1, 1898. ) N. Y. P. Juvenal, pseud. A Night Watch in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 50:87, Jan. 29, 1898.) N.Y.P. Keene, Harry P. A Delightful Outing. (Field & Str., v, 6: 224-25, illus., June, 1901.) At Minerva, Essex Co. N. Y. P. Kellogg, Alice M. Luxurious Adirondack Camps. (New Broadway Mag., V. 21: 207-12, illus., Aug., 1908.) Description of the various attractive features of the Great North Woods with an account of some of the more elaborate summer homes. N. Y. P. LaFarge, C. Grant. A Winter Ascent of Tahawus, (Outing, v. 36: [69]- 75, illus., Apr., 1900.) Account of a trip to the summit of Mt. Marcy during the blizzard of Feb., 1809. Author was accompanied by Gifford Pinchot. ^- Y. S, Langdon, Palmer H. Climbing Mount Marcy. (Forest & Str., v. 75: 289-90, Aug. 20, 1910.) ^'- ^- ^ Levick, James J. The Adirondacks. (Phila. Med. Times, v. 11:813-17, Sept. 24, 1881.) 354 BIBLIOGEAPHY On the Adirondacks as a health resort and a description of various lakes and regions within the district. L. C. Little Travels: A Series of Practical Vacation Journeys, from a Fortnight to Twelve Weeks in Length. . . . Accurate Itineraries Are Given, . . . (Indedendent, v. 78: 371-80, illus., June 1, 1914.) Lake George and the Adirondacks, p. 373. An itinerary, New York to Adirondacks and return, covering 15 days Some descriptive information concerning the chief points of interest. N. Y. S. McClellan, Katherine Elizabeth. Keene Valley "In the Heart of the Moun- tain." Saranac Lake, N. Y.: Pub. by the Author, [cl898]. 13 1., illus. obi. D. (Adirondack Series.) L. C. McHarg, John B., Jr. Early Summer in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., V. 50: 519, June 25, 1898.) N. Y.P. Mattison, C. H. Canoeing in the Adirondacks : A practical account of a two weeks' vacation spent in the woods on a hundred and fifty mile cruise. (Field & Str., V. 12:[107]-118, illus., June, 1907.) N. Y.P. Miller, Seaver Asbury. Sporting Clubs in the Adirondacks. (Outing, v. 32: 475-82, illus., Aug., 1898.) Describes some of the largest Clubs and their Preserves within the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Mills, Borden H. By Paddle and Portage. (Countrj^ Life in Amer., v. 15: 156, 158, 160, illus., June, 1909.) Description of a 150 mile hike through the depths of the Adirondack Forest. N. Y. S. Murray, Rev. W[illiam] H[enry] H[arrison]. The Ownership of the Adi- rondacks. (Field & Str., V. 7 : [195]-96, port., July, 1902. ) N. Y. P. Norman, Andre. Courting Winter in the Adirondacks: The Exhilarating Season of Winter Sport in Northern New York — Outdoor Life at Lake George, Lake Placid and some other all-y^ar resorts. (Travel, v. 24, no. 3 : 46-48, illus., Jan., 1915. ) N. Y. S. Nott, Charles C, Jr. An Adirondack Idyl. (Outing, v. 23:16-20, illus., Oct., 1893.) Story told by an Adirondack guide. N. Y. S. Ormsbee, Alexander F. Another Winter Ascent of Mount Marcy. (Ap- palaehia, v. 12: 135-38, July, 1910.) Trip from Westport, N. Y., by sleigh and snowshoes in Feb., 1910. N. Y. S. Pach, Alfred. A Horseback Vacation in the Adirondacks. (Country Life in Amer., v. 18 : 206-07, illus., June, 1910.) N. Y. S. Palmer, Francis Sterne. In an AdirondacK Bay. ( Outlook, v. 80 : 282, June 3, 1905.) An Adirondack Nature Lyric. N. Y. S. Pangborn, Georgia Wood. From an Adirondack Note-Book. (Outlook, v. 99:28-31, Sept. 2, 19n.) Mt. Marcy experiences. N. Y. S. BIBLIOGRAPHY 355 Pauncefote, Maud. Adirondaeks, U. S. (Lady's Realm, v. 12: 65(>-59, illus., Sept., 1912.) Abstracted in Review of Reviews (Eng ), v 26- 298 Sept ' 1902. Compares Adirondaeks to similar resorts abroad. Criticizes hotel accommoda- tions and scarcity of supplies. j^t y s Peek, Charles H. Plants of North Elba, Essex County, N. Y. Albany, 1899. [65J-266 p., map. 0. (N. Y. State Museum. Bull. No. 28.) N. Y. S. Prince, J. Dyneley. Some Forgotten Indian Plaee-Naraes in tlip Adirondaeks. (Jour, of Amer. Folklore, v. 13: 123-28, Apr.- June, 1900.) Abenaki names as obtained from Mitchell Sabattis of that tribe. N. Y. S. Radford, Harry V. Guide LaCasse's Story of President Roosevelt's Ascent of Mt. Marcy. (Field & Str., v. 6:[647]-49, port., Jan., 1902.) A full account of events preceding and immediately following the receipt of the news of President McKinley's being at the point of death. N. Y. P. Richards, T. Addison. American Scenery, Illustrated. New York : Leavitt & Allen, [1854]. 310 p., pk sq. 0. Chap. XII. The Adirondaeks, p. [235]-55. Contains a story: The Hermit of the Adirondaeks, p. 246-55. L. C. Robinson, Alonzo Clark. Going Into the "North Woods." (Outing, v. 49: 246-47, Nov., 1906.) Description and advice from one experienced in the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. Rockwell, George L. A Winter Camp on the St. Regis: Pen Pictures of Wood Life in the Adirondaeks in the Season of Frost and Snow. (Field & Str., V. 12: [818]-22, [916J-20, iUus., Feb. & Mar., 1908.) N. Y. P. Schneider, Elsie. A Trip up Whiteface Mountain. (Forest & Str., v. 80 : 106-07, illus., Jan. 25, 1913.) N. Y. P. Schneider, Elsie. A Vacation in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 79: 588, 601-06, illus., Nov. 9, 1912.) Tells of Climbing Mt. Marcy. N. Y. P. Seeger, Frederique. The Scenic Panorama of New York State. (Frank Leslie's Pop. Mo., v. 40:[617]-30, illus., Nov., 1895.) Pp. [G17]-2I concern the Adirondaeks. L. C. Simpson, William. Adirondack Camp-Fire. (Forest & Str., v, 80 : [165]- 66, 187, illus., Feb. 8, 1913.) Along the Saranac Lakes. rs.Y. P. Some Wild Adirondaeks Left. (Forest & Str., v. 67:181, Aug. 4, 1906.) Reprinted from the "Wliitohall Chronicle." Refers to Southeastern Adirondaeks. N. \.P. Spears, E[Idridge] A. The Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 77:873, Dec. 16. 1911.) Comments upon articles bv Gifford Pinchot in Forest & Stream of Dec. 9, Iflll. ^ N. Y. P. Spears, Eldridge A. Afoot in the Adirondaeks. (Forest & Str., v. 69 : 689- 90, Nov. 2, 1907.) Observations made on a camping trip. N.Y . P. 356 BIBLIOGRAPHY Spears, E[ldridge] A. The First Touch of Autumn. (Forest & Str., v. 71: 452, Sept. 19, 1908.) Describes appearance of Adirondacks in Autumn garb. N. Y. P. Spears, John R. When the Snow Falls in the Adirondacks. (Scribner's Mag., V. 30: 737-49, illus., Dec, 1901.) Description of an Adirondack snowstorm and of the appearance of the region after the snow. N. Y. S. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Camp Troubles. (Forest & Str., v. 70: 856-57, May 30, 1908.) Tells of depredations made by camp thieves. N. Y. P. S])ears, Raymond S. Adirondack News and Observations. (Forest & Str., V. 72:376-77, Mar. 6, 1909.) Review of the previous winter season. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S, Adirondack Observations. (Forest & Str., v. 75:14, July 2, 1910.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. The Adirondack Park. (Forest & Str., v. 64:315, Apr. 22, 1905.) Concerns the boundaries of the park. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack Place Names. (Forest & Str., v. 56:403, May 25, 1901.) N.Y.P. Spears, RajTnond S. Adirondack Ruin. (Forest & Str., v. 52:464, June 17,1899.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack State Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 65: 308-09, Oct. 14, 1905.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. Adirondack State Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 65: 408-09, Nov. 18, 1905.) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. The Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 77:903, Dec. 23, 1911.) Comment on Gifford Pinchot's article in Forest & Stream of Dec. 9. N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. From Adirondack Letters. (Forest & Str., v. 51: 466, Dec.'lO, 1898.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. In the North Woods. (Forest & Str., v. 53:427, Nov. 25, 1899.) N.Y.P. Spears, Raymond S. The Little Known of the Adirondacks. (Field & Str., v. 12 : [204J-06, July, 1907.) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Selling Adirondack State Lands. (Forest & Str., v. 65 : 187-88, Sept. 22, 1905.) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. That Boy in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 51: 210-11, Sept. 10, 1898. ) N. Y. P. Spears, Raymond S. Winter Camping in the Adirondacks. (Country Life in America, v. 15: 272-73, 294, 296, illus., Jan., 1909.) Suggestions to campers after a "try" by the author. Describes conditions camper must count on meeting. N. Y. S. BIBLIOGRAPHY 357 Sterling, E[rnest] A. Adirondack Birds in Their Relation to Forestry (Forestry Quar., v. l:[18]-25, Oct., 1902.) L.C. [Sweetser, Moses Foster], Ed. The Middle States: A Handbook for Travel- lers ; A guide to the chief cities and popular resorts of the Middle States . . . [Centennial Ed.] Boston: J. R. Osgood Co., 1876. xvi., 469, 16 p.' maps, plan. S. ' ' First edition published in 1874. The Adirondack Mountains, p, 133-58. L. C. Switch Reel, Pseud. One Day in the Adirondacks: A Jud Smith Stor>' (Forest & Str., v. 84 : 86-87, illus., Feb., 1915.) N. Y. P. Switch Reel, Pseud. Women in Camp. (Forest & Str., v. 82: 575-76 illus May 2, 1914.) Story of an Adirondack camping trip. j^ y p^ Thees, Oscar D. Camp Bill Cody: How Dad and the Girls Enjoyed a Pleas- ant Camping- Trip. (Field & Str., v. 12:[212]-16, illus., July, 1907.) Thirteenth Lake House, Hour Brook, and Hour Pond. N. Y. P. Thompson, H. H. Adirondack Nomenclature. (Field & Str., v. 10:286-87, July, 1905.) N.Y.P. To Save the Adirondacks. (Eng. & Min. Jour., v. 49 : 566, May 17, 1890.) Short notice of organization of the Association for the Preservation of the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. Trumbull, Mrs. E. E. A Vsit to Ausable Chasm. (Guide to Nature, v. 4: 28-30, illus.. May, 1911.) N. Y. S. v., F. P. Lost in the Woods. (Forest & Str., v. 66: 12, Jan. 6, 1906.) Cites several instances of persons being lost in the great North Woods. N. Y. P. Van Vorst, Marie. The Indian Trail. (Harper's Bazar, v. 42:653-58, 744-48, illus., July- Aug., 1908.) Trip along Indian Trail between Lake Placid and Lake Henderson by a woman reporter who was assigned to write of the source of the Hudson River. N. Y. S. A Visit to the States: A reprint of letters from the Special Correspondent •of the Times. Series 1-2. London : G. E. Wright, 1887-88. 2 v. T. Chap. 40. The Hudson River, v. 2, p. 83-87. Treats of the Adirondacks, the source of the River. N- Y. S. Wack, Henry Wellington. Kamp Kill Kare, the Adirondack Home of Hon. Timothy L. Woodruff. (Field & Str., v. 7 : [651] -61, illus., pi., Feb., 1903.) N. Y. P. Wells, Lewis A. A January Ascent of Mount Marcy. (Appalachia, v. 11: 340-43, June, 1908.) ^- Y- S- Whitaker, E. S. Adirondack Tours. (Forest & Str., v. 57:452-53, Dec, 7, 190L) N.Y.P. Whitaker, E. S. Adirondack Tours. Parts 1-3. (Forest & Str., v. 69: [8] -9, 48-49, 88-89, July 6, 13, & 20, 1907.) N. Y. P. 358 BIBLIOGRAPHY Wilcox, James Foster. Cranberry Lake, New York and the Western Adiron- dack Region. [Cranbeny Lake, N. Y.:] Cranberry Lake Motor Boat Club, 1915. 64 p., illus., port. obi. T. A descriptive booklet. N. Y. S. Williams, A. P. The Adirondacks in Summer : A Game Protector's Trip Through the Forests of Herkimer and St. Lawrence Counties. (Field & Str., V. 13 : [877] -83, illus., Feb., 1909.) N. Y. P. Williams, Asa S. The Lost Lake of the Adirondacks. (Field & Str., v. 8: [190]-91, illus., July, 1903.) N. Y. P. Wise, Daniel, D.D. Summer Daj^s on the Hudson: The story of a pleasant tour from Sandy Hook to the Saranac Lakes, including incidents of travel, legends, historical anecdotes, sketches of scenery, etc. New York: Nelson & Phillips, 1876. 288 p., illus. pi. D. Chap. XV. From Lake George to the Peak of Tahawus, p. 24(>-63. Chap. XVI. From Tahawus to the end of the tour, p. 264-88. L. C. Woodcliuck, Pseud. Conditions in the Adirondacks. (Forest & Str., v. 76 : 658, 677-78, Apr. 29, 1911. ) N. Y. P. ASSEMBLY AND SENATE DOCUMENTS New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Standing Committee on Canals and Internal Improvements on the Memorial of the Counties of St. Law- rence, Franklin, and Clinton, praying for an Act, Authorizing a Survey of the Route of a Canal to Connect Lakes Ontario and Champlain. (Assem- bly Jour., 1824:804-808.) A favorable report upon the proposed canal from Plattsburgh to Ogdensburgh, which was to pass through the North Woods. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Select Committee, Relative to the Survey of the Sacondaga, Schroon, and the middle branch of the Hudson River. 3 p. (Assembly Doc, 1831, No. 248.) N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Committee on Railroads on the petition of inhabitants of the counties of St. Lawrence, Franklin, Clinton and Essex, in relation to the Ogdensburgh and Lake Champlain Railroad. 15 p. (Assembly Doc, 1839, No. 233.) Includes Statement of Messrs. Hopkins, Piatt and Duane, which tells of the great natural resources of region from which the proposed road would draw revenue. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Select Committee on the Petitions of the Inhabitants of Essex, Franklin and Warren Counties [for an Appro- priation for the Improvement of the Saranac River and Lakes]. 4 p. (Assembly Doc. 1851, No. 94.) N Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Select Committee on the Improve- ment of the St. Regis River. 2 p. (Assembly Doc, 1856, No 112.) Committee concludes "that it would do much towards developing tlie natural wealth of this wilderness, which is always advantageous to the State." N. Y. S. BIBLIOGRAPHY 359 New York (St.) Assembly. "Report of the Select Committee on Petitions for the Improvement of Raquette and Moose Rivers. 32 p. (Assembly Doc, 1850, No. 68.) The appendices, A to I, are quotations from previous reports and surveys show- ing the immense natural wealth of this region. N. Y. B. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Committee on Commerce and Navigation, Relative to the Improvement of Beaver River. 4 p. (Assem- bly Doc, 1860, No. 91.) Enumerates appropriations for other rivers of Northeastern New York from 18.50 to 1857. X. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly, Report presented by Mr. Rogers, of Seneca, to the Committee on Agriculture, and adopted ... as a reply to a resolution . . . passed February 1, 1883, in regard to the preservation of the forests of the State. 7 p. (Assembly Doc, 1883, No. 130.) Sets forth the great value of the Adirondack forests in regulating the flow of the Hudson and other streams. X. \\ S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Special Committee to Investigate Matters Connected with the State Surveys. 10 p. (Assembly Doc. 1885, No. 137.) Chiefly concerned with the Adirondack Survey, conducted by Verplanck Colvin. X. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. In the Matter of the Inquiry Concerning the Administration of the Laws in Relation to the Forest Preserve by the Forest Commission, etc.; Report Adopted by the Assembly, April 23, 1891. Albany, 1891. 7 p. 0. Not published in the collected documents. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Reports of the Majority and Minority of the Committee on Public Lands and Forestry, relative to the Administration of the Laws in Relation to the Forest Preserve by the Forest Commission. 12, 615 p. (Assembly Doc, 1891, No. 81 ) N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Standing Committee on Public Lands and Forestry of the Assembly of 1891, Relative to the Investigation of the Adirondack' Lands and Tax Sales. 189 p. (Assembly Doc, 1895, No. 38.) ^^-Y-S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report and Testimony of the Special Committee Appointed to Investigate the Depredations of Timber in the Forest Pre- serve, 1895. 922 p. (Assembly Doc, 1896, No. 67.) Report of the Special Committee Appointed to Investigate the Depre- dations of Timber in the Forest Preserve, 1895 [without the testimony]. 31 p. (Assembly Doc, 1896, No. 60.) ^'- Y- »■ New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Special Committee of the Assem- bly Appointed to Continue the Investigation as to what Lands should be Acquired within the Forest Preserve in Order to Protect the Watersheds therein. 39 p. (Assembly Doc, 1898, No. 55.) N. Y. S. 360 BIBLIOGRAPHY New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Special Committee Appointed to Investigate as to certain matters pertaining to the State Park and Forest Preserve. 14 p. (Assembly Doc, 1900, No. C3.) Concerns boundaries of the park and the observance of the Game and Forest Laws. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Special Committee of the Assem- bly Appointed to Investigate as to certain matters pertaining to the State Park and Forest Preserve. 14 p. (Assembly Doc, 1902, No. 50.) Matters investigated were the advisability of the Proposed Amendment to the Constitution allowing cutting and sale of Timber in the Forest Preserve, legis- lation for further forest protection and the observance of Forest and Game Laws. N.Y.S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Adirondack Committee, Assembly of 1902. 19 p. (Assembly Doc, 1903, No. 4G.) N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of tlie Special Committee of the Assem- bly on the Adirondacks. 11 p. (Assembly Doc, 1904, No. (iO.) N. Y S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Adirondack Committee of the Assembly of 1904. 20 p. (Assembly Doc, 1905, No. 31.) N. Y. S. New York (St.) Assembly. Report of the Adirondack Committee of the Assembly of 1905. 13 p. (Assembly Doc, 190C, No. 57.) N. Y. S. New York (St.) Canal Board. Report of the Canal Board relating to the Continuation of the Survey of the Northern Branches of the Hudson River, in obedience to a resolution of the Assembly, of March 24th, 1840. 3 p. (Assembly Doc, 1840, No. 275.) " N. Y. S. New York (St.) Canal Board. Report of the Canal Board, . . . relating to the Survey of the several branches of the Hudson River, transmitting the report and estimates of the engineer, with a communication . . . from the Surveyor-general. 35 p. (Sen. Doc, 1840, No. 61.) Contents: Report of the Surveyor-general ... in relation to the public lands, etc. [of Hi'rkimer, Hamilton, Warren, Essex, Clinton, and Franklin Counties] ; Report of George E. Hoffman, Chief Engineer, in respect to the survey of the Upper Hudson. The purpose of the former report is to "make the Legislature, and the public generally, more adequately acquainted with the real extent and value of the large section of the State ... as little known as the secluded valleys of the Eocky Mountains, or the burning plains of Central Africa." Tlie latter is chiefly technical but Mr. Hoffman gives his observations concerning the re- sources of region. He says: "So little is known of that region, that no estimate can be made of its value . . . but I have but little doubt that correct information . . would show that few routes are of more importance than this, or would be more profitable to the State." N. Y. S. New York (St.) Canal Commissioners. Communication on the Survey of a Route for a Canal from the St. Lawrence River to Lake Champlain. 36 p. (Assembly Doc, 1825, No. 183.) Title from Bibliography on N. Y. Canals in the Suppl. to the An. Rept. of the State Engr., for 1905. BIBLIOGRAPHY 36i New York (St.) Commissioners on Proposed Railroad from Ogdensbur-h to Lake Cliamplain. Report of the Commissioners Appointed to cause°a survey to be made of the several routes for a railroad from Ogdensburgli to Lake Cbamplain. 115 p., fold. map. (Assembly Doc., 1841, No. 43.)° Contains the following appended documents: A Report of Edward H. Broadhead. Chief Engineer for the survey of a railroad from Ogdensburgli to Lake Champlain. With this report are submitted the reports of the following division engineers— W. R. Casey. VV. B. Gilbert, John S. Stoddard, and A. \V. Harrison. B. Roberts, B, S. Extracts from report on the geology and mineralogy of parts of Franklin and Clinton Counties, contiguous to the proposed railroad. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Commissioners to Build Road from Cedar Point, Essex Co., Westward to Black River. Report of the Commissioners Appointed . . . April 21st, 1828, to lay out and open a road from Cedar Point, westward through the towns of Moriah and Neweomb, in the County of Essex ... to the Black River opposite the Village of Lowville in the County of Lewis. (In : Assembly Jour., 1829 : 452-57.) "The commissioners felicitate themselves in thinking that they have succeeded ... in finding a good route for a road across that extensive forest — the dis- tance being 72 miles ... on line of the road." Much of the report is taken up by: "Remarks on the character of the adjacent lands." N. Y. S New York (St.) State Engineer and Surveyor. Reply of State Engineer and Surveyor to Resolutions filed by the Superintendent of the Adiron- dack Survey. 2, Ip. (Assembly Docs., 1885, Nos. 73 & 74.) N.Y. S. New York (St.) Senate. Report of the Committee on Rail-roads on the Petitions for the Construction of the Ogdensburgh and Champlain Rail- road by the State. 12 p. (Sen. Doc, 1840, No. 44.) The committee expresses belief that the road should be built, "because it will open up to our capitalists the richest and most extensive mineral region prob- ably on this continent." N. Y. S. New York (St.) Senate. Report of the Select Committee on the Improve- ment of the Navigation of Raquette River. 4 p. (Sen. Doc, 1854, No. 24.) N.Y.S. New York (St.) Senate. Report of the Special Committee on State Lands, in the Adirondack Region. 35 p. (Sen. Doc, 1884, No. 23.) The appendix to this report is: Report of the Superintendent of the Adirondack Survey on the Public Lands in the Adirondacks. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Senate Report of the Finance Committee on the Alleged Misconduct of the Forest Commission. 48 p. (Sen. Doc, 1887, No. 73.) Investigation resulting from alleged mismanagement of Adirondack State forest lands. Chief question seemed to be the commission's conduct of the suit against Hurd & Hotchkiss for cutting timber off Forest Preserve in Macomb's Pur- chase, Franklin Co. New York (St.) Senate. Report of the Special Committee of the Senate on the Future Policy of the State in Relation to the Adirondacks and Forest Preservation. 14 p., fold. map. (Sen. Doc, 1904, No. 28.) N. Y. o. i 362 BIBLIOGRAPHY Now York (St.) Senate. Report of the Special Conunittce of the Senate on (lie Poliey of the State in Kehition to the Adirondaeks for Forest Preser- vation, and the Shellfish Industry. 9 p. (Sen. Doc., 1909, No. 37.) N. Y. S. PUBLIC TAPERS OF VARIOUS GOVERNORS New York (St.). Governor (Black). Forests. (In his Public Papers, 1897-98:19-21. 227-32.) Chiefly concerning the Adirondaeks. N. Y. S. New York (St.) Governor (Cleveland). The Adirondack Wilderness; The Adirondack Survey. (In his Public Papers, 1884 : 48-52.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Cornell). The Adirondack Survey; The Nortli- em Wilderness. (In his Public Papers, 1882:42-44.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Flower). The Adirondack Park. (In his Piiblic Papers, 1894 : 35-39.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Flower). Communication from the Governor calling the attention of the Legislature to Senate Bill No. 846, relating to the maintenance of the Adirondack Park, April 11, 1894. 3 p. (Assem- bly Doc, 1894, No. ()2.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor ( Flower). Communication from the Governor relative to the Preservation of the State's Forest Preserve. 3 p. (Assem- bly Doc. 1893, No. 79.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Flower). Memorandum tiled with Assembly Hill No. 1422. to Estiiblisii the Adirondack Park. Approved. (In his Public Papers, 1892 : 189-91. ) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Flower). Veto. Assembly Bill No. 1001, Making Appropriation for the State Land Survey. (In his Public Papers, 1894: 188-9L) Gives a brief history of the Adirondack Survey. N. Y. S. New York (State). Governor (Flower). Veto. Senate Bill No. 8(51, To Amend the Penal Code, relating to Tax Sales of Ailirondack Lands. (In his Public Papers, 1894 : 369-71. ) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Fliggins). Message to the Legislature concern- ing the State's Forest Preserve. (In his Public Papers, 1905:47-52.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (Hill). Communication from the Governor relative to the Use of State Lands in the "Adirondaeks" for Park Purposes. 2 p. (Sen. Doc, 1890, No. 29; Assemldy Doc, 1890. No. 85.) N. Y. S. New York (St.). Governor (TIill). Message Kecommending the Creation of a State Park in the Adirondack Region. (In his Public Papers. 1890: 50-52.) N Y.S. New York (St.). Governor (Iloflman). Veto of the Governor on the Bill entitled "An Act to Facilitate the Construction of the Railroad of the l5IP>hI()GRAiMIY "v'.o; Adin.n.liick ( '(.tnpariy, .-iiid ils Kxicrision to I lie walcrH ol' Mm; St. I.iiw rcticc K'lvci." (i p. (y\ssciril)ly Doc, 1K70, Ni>. 1207.) N.Y. M. New Vntk (SI.). (iov.riHM- ( I Iiij^'Iich). TIic K„rcsl, I'lc.scrvf. (In IiIh I'uhlic r;ip.i-s, I!)|(); l!l 22.) N, y. s. New York (SI.), (iovcriior (llu^^luw). Forest iVcscrvcH :iri(l (limw I.hwh. (In Ins I'lil.lic I'lipcns, 190H : 3.1-3:3.) N.Y.M, New Voik (SI), (iovcrtior (Morion). Stnlo ForcHt and (liinic IVuHcrvcH; SI Ml.' I;;irid Survey. (In Ins I'lildic, Papers, lH!)(i:31 3(i.) N. Y. K. New York (SI.), ({overnor (O.leji). Cornell S<-liool of l''oreslry; KorcHt I'nwrve. ( In Ins I'nl.iie l';ipern, 1904 : 35- IH. ) N Y. S. New York (St.). (iovernor (Odell). The Forest PrcHerve. (In Inn I'uMio. I 'a pcrH, 1002:14-10.) N. Y.S. INDEX Note: The author wishes to make special acknowledgment here to Mr. F. W. O. Werry of Saranac Lake, for his valuable coUaboration in compiling this index. " Abel, Oliver, I, 379 Abel, WilUam J., I, 379 "Aboriginal Occupation of New York." quoted, I, 28 "Aboriginal Place Names," quoted, I, 11; II, 161 Act, creating Park, 1 , 4 ; amendatory, 4 ; concern- ing Old Military Roads, II, 123, 127, 129; con- cerning Adirondack Railroads, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135; concerning action for State Park, 169; prohibiting sale of State lands, 172; concerning fire prevention, 178; permitting sale of lands, 180; authorizing purchase of lands, 182; establishing the Adirondack Park, 183; Section 1 quoted, 183; giving power to sell timber, 184; defining Forest Preserve, 185; defining Adirondack Park, 185; permit- ting timber operations, 186; appointing com- mittee of Nine, 200; creating College of Forestry, 202; defining "blue line," 216; for better fire protection, 216; to destroy build- ings on State lands, 217; the Fuller Law, 223; for new fire control system, 225; Conservation Law, 234; Conservation Law revised, 235; Top-lopping law, 226, 236. 240; defining Park, 236; placing Saratoga Springs under Con- servation Commission, 245; Machold Law, 245; allowing does to be killed, 253; " Buck Law," 253,254 Addison Junction, I, 149 Adgate's Tract, I, 81 Adirondac ("deserted village"), I, 140 Adirondack, Park defined and described, I, 4; Park and Preserve differentiated, 5; Preserve acreage, 4 Adirondack Camp and Trail Club, II, 24 Adirondack Club, forerunner of Tahawus Club, I, 148; list of incorporators and original members, 148; see Philosophers' Camp Adirondack Co., The (R. R.), buys Adirondack Iron Works, I, 147 Adirondack Cottage Sanitarium, founding and development of, I, 256; list of Superintendents and Resident Physicians, footnote, 257; Training School for Nurses, footnote, 257; Twenty-Fifth Anniversary of, 258; change of name, footnote, 258;Trudeau School of Tuberculosis, footnote, 258; me- morial statue of Dr. Trudeau unveiled, foot- note, 258; letter of Mrs. Goss describing site of, in pre-Trudeau days, 271-272 "Adirondack Days," II. 84 Adirondack guide-boat, the, II. 79 Adirondack Guides, The Last of the Great, II, 116 " Adirondack" Harry, see Radford Adirondack Iron Works, The, location of, I, 136; Watson's History of Essex Count V quoted, 136-137; starting and aban- donment of Elba Iron Works, 137 ; story of Indian and iron dam, 137-138; lands pur- chased for, 138, Mr. Henderson's lost Journal, 139; the Dornburgh pamphlet concerning, 139; founders of, 141; Mr. Henderson made manager of, 141; preparations to make steel, 141-142; Lower Works built and abandoned, ,141-142; growth of Upper Works, 142; the Mclntyre Bank," 143; Mr. Henderson's death, 144; its effect on, 146-147; hopes of railroad connections with, 1 47 ; abandonment ?V^ > ' acquired by the Adirondack Co., 147; leased to the Adirondack Club (now the Tahawus Club), 148; possible revival of iron mdustry, 149 Adirondack League Club, The, location, II, 159; objects, 159; charter mem- bers, 159;buysland, 160;dues, 161;givesaid to Forest Protection, 210 Adirondack Library, I, 239 Adirondack Lodge, I, 165; location of, II, 23; built by van Hoevenberg, 23; IS bought by Lake Placid Club, 24; Mr. van Hoevenberg becomes superintendent, 24; destroyed by fire, 24, 214 Adirondack Mountain Reserve Club, II. 49 "Adirondack" Murray, see Murray, William Adirondack National Bank, I, 236 Adirondack Park, sentiment in favor of, II, 182; Association created, 182; description of in State Report for i8qi , 183 ; created, act quoted, 183 ;defini- tion altered, 185. 236 Adirondack Pass (Indian Pass), II. 164 Adirondack Railroad from Saratoga to North Creek, II. 90 Adirondack Railway Company, seeks grant over State lands, II, 196 Adirondack Survey, II, 164-167 Adirondacks, geographical description of, 1,3; early names of, 3; accepted boundaries of. 3; definite boundaries set by State. 3 ; synonymous with Adirondack Park, 5; discovered by Cham- plain, 8; meaning of, 34; Sylvester quoted, 34; Jesuit Relations quoted, 35; Prince quoted, 35; first application of. 36; first and second gubernatorial mention. II. 171 "Adirondacks as a Health Resort, The," by Dr. Stickler, referred to, I, 266 "Adirondacs, The," Ralph Waldo Emerson, II, 271-280 Adler, Dr. Felix, II, 45 Adler, Isaac, II. 45 "Adventures in the Wilderness," "Adirondack" Murray's book. I, 193; dis- cussed. 192. 196; quoted, 193, 196 Aeroplane, first in woods. II, 296 Agassiz, Louis, at the "Philosophers' Camp," I, 179 Agricultural Experimental Station, II. 200 Agricultural Society, Annual Report of, quoted as to Brown's cattle. II. 5 Albany Lake (Nehasane Lake), I, 135 Aldrich, Charles, I, 289 Aldrich, Thomas Bailey, taken to Saranac Lake by son'sillness, 1.289; a letter quoted , 289 ; builds in Highland Park. 290; his literary doings, 290; leaves Saranac Lake, 291 , , . • Aleck (Old), old Indian who knew of lead mme, Alexander, Jabez D., built Algonquin Hotel, I, 366 INDEX Alexander, Robert C, II. 159 Algonquin, Indians guided Champlain. I, 9; tribe. 37; mountain, 37; Hotel, location and history, 37-38 Allen, Anson, his bear story, II, 36 Allen, Frederick P., II, 36 Allen, Henry, 1,353.357 Allen House, the, 1,357 " Allen's Bear Fight up in Keene," II, 36. 37 Alstead Hill, II, 30 Alton, Dr., I, 378 _ _ Alvord, Thomas G., introduces act, II, 169 Amendment, Constitutional, see Section 7, Article VII "American Scenic and Historical Preservation Society Report, ipiS," quoted as to Alex. Macomb, I, 64 Ames, Moses S., I, 348 Ames, Moses (Mrs.), I, 348 Ampersand (Lake, Mountain, Brook, Hotel), derivations discussed, I, 38-39; Van Dyke quoted, 39; Hotel burned,40; property sold, 40 Ampersand Pond, bought for "Philosophers' Camp," I, 187 Anderson, A. A. (Mrs.), I, 254 Anderson, Jeremiah G.,II, 20 Angerstein, John Julius, once controlled John Brown's Tract, I, 94; his paintings made nucleus of National Gallery, London, 94 "AnnalsofTryonCounty"(Campbell's), referred to, I, 16 Anson Blake Tract, II, 159 Anthony, Captain Nicholas N., II, 64 Anthony, Theophilus, II, 63 Anthony Ponds, II, 63 " Antlers," The, II, 95, 96 Apgar camp, II, 94 Appropriation, first, for purchase of State lands, II. 172; for expenses of Forest Commission, 178; first direct, 182; for land purchases vetoed by Gov. Odell, 209; for Forest Nursery, 209; for land purchases. 221; list of, 255 Arbutus Lake, II. 93 Armstrong, Mr. C. R., I, 257 Armstrong, C. R. (Mrs.), I, 257 Arnold, Edwin, I, 127 Arnold, Otis, moves into HerreshofT Manor, I, 123; Lady Amelia Murray quoted as to "Arnold's," 124-125; Headley quoted. 126; remarkable horsemanship of daughters, 126; shooting of James Short, 127; the suicide of. 127; house reopened by son, Edwin, 127; house finally burns. 127; description of "Arnold's" by Thorpe. 131-132 Arthurborough Tract, I. 81 Association for the Protection of the Adiron- dacks. The, organization of, II, 210; purposes, 210; incorporation, 212; trustees elected, 211; Committee on legislation appointed, 211; permanent watcher sent to Albany. 211; up- holds Constitutional Amendment, 212; encourages more land purchases, 212; First Annual Meeting of, 212; Harry Radford's suggestion. 212; trees and newspapers. 212; helps to defeat Lewis Grab Bill, 213; investi- gates surrender of State's titles, 214; works for better fire protection, 216; investigates lumber thefts, 217; results of investigation, 218; forces resignation of Middleton and Pond. 218; investigates flooding by Paul Smith's Co.. 220; restores penalty for top- lopping, 240; president Howland dies, 240; fights Merritt-Q'Neil resolution, 222; John G. Agar elected president. 240 Association for Restoring Moose to the Adiron- dacks, I, 205 Association of Residents on Upper Saranac Lake, II. 206 Atkinson, Edwin C, I. 380 Atkinson, H. C, I., 380 Ausable, derivation of. I, 40 Ausable Chasm, discovered by Gilliland, I, 18, 20; 167 Ausable Club, II, 48 Ausable Forks, I, 335, 338, 340, 341, 342 Ausable Lake and Mountain Club, II, 49 Ausable Lakes, I, 167 Ausable River, I, 167 Austin, H. LeRoy, succeeds Whipple, II, 232 "Autobiography, An," by E. L. Trudeau, re- ferred to, I. 243 "Autobiographyof a Journalist," quoted, I, 174, 176 Automobile, first in woods, II, 296 Avacal, early name for Northern New York, I, 11 Avalanche Lake, I, 162, 163 Avery, S., I. 347 Avery, Willis, I, 118 Averyville, I. 347 Alton, II, 203 Babcock, Francis G., II, 185, 195, 196 Baker, Andrew J., son of Col. Milote, I, 223; his birth and career as guide, 226; built house that Stevenson occupied. 226; his wife and children, 226; 278 Baker, Andrew J. (Mrs.), I, 348 Baker, Bertha (Mrs. J. H. Vincent), I. 226 Baker, Blanche, I, 226 Baker, Clara, I. 226 Baker, Col. Milote, builds famous hotel in Saranac Lake, I, 223; notable guests at hotel, 223; his birth and early career, 223; his two wives and children, 223; his characteristics, 224; establishes first store and post-oflBce in Saranac Lake, 224; his brother Hillel, the cobbler, 225; his death, 225; his hotel closed forever, 225; his son Andrew J., 225 Baker, Emma, I, 223 Baker, Grace, I, 226 Baker, Hillel, brother of Col. Milote, I, 225 Baker, Julia, I, 218, 223 Baker, Narcissa, I, 217. 223 Baker, Raymond, T. (Mrs.), II, 93 Baker Bridge, 1,217. 218, 223 Baker's Hotel, I. 223 Bakewell, Professor C. M., II, 52 Baldwin, Dr. E. R., I. 238. 254 Baldwin, Ernest H., I, 238 Baldwin, George W., I, 353 Baldwin School, I, 238 Balfour, quoted as to R. L. S. and Italy. I, 284 Balfour's Life of Stevenson, referred to and quoted, I. 273 "Balsams,The,"I,379 Bandmann (the actor), I. 287 Bank of Lake Placid, the, I, 375 BarnumPond, II. 127. 249 "Barque of Camp Pine Knot," the, II, 93 Barret, Walter, his Old Merchants of New York City referred to. I, 66 Barse, Mills W., II. 159 Bartlett.E.B.,!. 379 Bartlett, O. J., 1,347 Bartlett, Virgil C, buys land and builds hotel, I, 311 ; his birth and death, 312; his appearance and charac- teristics, 312; story of the new cutter, 313; his treatment of hired help. 313; fond of animals and children, 314; adopts children, 314 BarUett, Virgil C. (Mrs.), her good table. I. 314; fine qualities, 315 "Bartlett's," I. 292, 307; location, 311; de- stroyed by fire, 317 Bartlett's Carry, I, 311 Barton, Thomas M., II. 89 Basedow, Johann Bernhard, I, 104 Basselin, Theodore B., II. 178 Baxter Farm, the, II, 45 Bay Pond, see Rockefeller, William INDEX 367 Ifat' KK&^'e. L. Trudeau). I. 246. 249,259 ®"nuoteTek^y"names for Lake Champlain. I, ?? auited 21; his Aboriginal OccupaUon of Nam« 0/ N«^ I'or/^, 34; quoted. 46. 50; Beauregard, General, II. 39 tion reviewed 247 Beaver Lake, I. 99. 132 Beaver River Club, 1. 135 Beede, Allen, II. 32 Beede,Ama,II.32.48 Beede,Almon,II 32 Beede, David, II. 32 Beede, Edward, II, Sj^ Beede, Orlando 11.49 Beede, Orrin, 11,32 Beede, urriu, XX, ^- Beede, P^'P^* t't^i'o^V mentof Mt. Marqy, 154 Benedict, Professor G. W., II. 75 Benham,John,.II. 126 100- had many friends, lOU Bennett, Ed., II, 95 Bennett, Margaret.il. yo Bennett's Pond (Mirror Lake), 1, ^«> llS?on,Na%'hanie'lS.,hisfl«*o.y o/ Herkimer Cowniy quoted. I. 9^ Berry, CarroU, L 380. 381 Bettner, James, I. ^bi «^SsTA«j|ar.;iTl79,reprinted.l80 Biddlecome, Mr., II, 31- -i^ «|thdrawin.SUte lands from sale. I^^^^^^^ s^d7trrciU^^lf6;^iea^ing a^mendment fa^^^^ ST,' ^r!-'Amos?^aJ' t'he ' -Philosophers' Bir?s?^ai'ro#ck 11.291-296 Bisby Club, II. 159 liSl'^u^ci^da^r-ied John Cheney. I. 170 Birck&\!r3i4"33r338.340.344 Black River, II, loS Blagden, Thomas. !■ -^^9 Blanchard, Charhe, II. 95 Blood, Arvilla E., I.^-i-i. ^ • Blood, George, 1.^^^ 225; buys land and Blood. Orlando, Jv^tg" 233; sells lot to Lucius ^;l^ns%'33ropens hofefWith famous ball. Blood, Pascal, 1.233 Blood,Ryland,I.23.J Blood's Hotel (Saranac Lake), now Riverside Inn, I. 233; built by John J. Miller. 233; sold to Orlando Blood. 2d.J. leased to Charles H. Kendall. 234 ; subleased to George A. Berkeley. 234; shooUnR of George A. Berkeley. 234; willed to Wal ace Murray, 235; sold to Pine & Corbett, 23o Bloodville, I. 232 Bloomingdale, I, 269. 270 " Trboundkry of Park, 1.3; counties within. 4; relation to Forest Preserve of ,5; why moun- tains iut beyond. 5; 338; 341. 343. 35.5; !!...' Thompson P^vide^nc^I ql"^'^*" °^ J-'h" B^°-n of Brown, Tom, I, 3.34 Brown University, I, 90 Bruce, G. T..II, .35 Bruce, Joseph, II. .33, 44 S''""^'' Marc Isambard, I, 84 Buck Island. I, 376, .380 Buck Law, RnTvlir^'''^'."' 253; re-enacted, 264 Buck Mountain Point. II 7fi Buffalo Bill (William C. Cody), II 120 Bnlf T°^M°° State lands destroyed. 11. 217 Lak^e f 237^fn7rn^H"' ^'J'^''^^^ '" Saranac Bunceroelney n 43"''' "' telephones, 237 ^ Ti"m 'im '*iff*^''"f •? ^"°t Carroll Judson), ti'J' } • ^■^■^'' ^^*s '°'^o the lime-light US- begins to write. 118; enters the Ad ir^ndacks 119; enlists in Civil War. 119- works fo; Temperance. 120; goes to CatsMIs 120- Bushnell, Rev. Horace II 34 4.: ko Bushnell Falls, II 45 ' ' *' ^^' ^^ 2""^^^"k Falls ("Phantom") I iqq Byron-Curtiss. A. L., his N^^t /oL^'dlcussed. Calamity Pond, I, 146 ^1n^?he'?oSLT.r H^lVr^^^ ^^^'-^ °^ P°-^^V &p%^^l7kiT,T,t8g^°^'^-«-^ Camp Beautiful, the, II, 92 Ca'i^Wetn'ot "^ "PWlosophers' Camp " ^ do'Jra'n^'re';L"cl^d,%t ro?'°^'- "' ^^i torn Camp sites, leasing of, II'. 183 C«^"\^ .T'i'* ^"'" footnote I. 321 Campbell, Archibald, surveyor I W 7fi Camps, the first artistic iTgl' ' ' ^ ••r»„'"S^ 's Camps^,, II. 92 w's^de^t°h"rol?°"*-- — t of Rad- CaSnon!'^^"' ^"'^'*" '*'''^' ^''°^^'^' ^^ ^2 at Witaington, I, 344; old English ruins. II. Canton, II, 135 Cart-wheel, John Brown's, II 5 ^Yf,'2^0 ^^^^°' ^"'"''' ^'^'^ce^ds Colonel Fox, '' Castle Rustico," I 377 Castorland, I. 82. 84. 85 Catherine, Lake, II loi Catskill, Preserve. I. 4- II 177 '"dS'l.*?5°4"^'' *° '"^^ ''^■-^- tl^- Adiron- rhL'/j^'-^°''oB™«''»'s prize, II. 5. 6 Chalmers Stephen, sketch of ckreer and Arii rondack writings, I, 291 ^'^'' Chamber of Commerce (New Yarb) toi .nteres.tinPorest.il, 172 ^°'^'' ^^^'"^ cnamplam. Lake. I, 8 9 11 Champlain, Samuel de, ' discoverer of Adirondacks, I. 8; third visit to Anienca. 8; hears of inland sea. 8; the voya^^e resu'lf g'^h'"''' ^- ^^^' ^''^ Iroquiis 8-9f?he cpi^fn>'"ISrR!l:.^!74%°-"-- ^-^0 lT?7.5 "'^^ G..appoints'Forest Committee. Ch^iVf^^^n S*"*^y' A." n. 54 Charlotte County, on Sauthier's map. x, 14; named after daugh- li. 14; what it included. 15- ning. 121 ; poetry, 122 Burd Amendment, 23q"ifr^f;K V^^^= '^^Pgpf- 238; vote at polls Bu.?/^^gi°m^^t.\^T2°73'^^'" "' '^ Bn"''rro^;?:'9^4"'=^^^'^ ^"^°'- P""'^' "• 218 ®T'^ f ' ^u^^ ^i ^^^ ^°'^ State," earliest mapto show Mt. Marcy, I, I55 '^^'^'lest Burt, William G., I. 332 Bushnell, Alric Mann. I, 216 Bushnell, Lois E., I, 217 ter of George III' 11!%*'^*'' ''""^" guide-boats at Long Lake. Chase, David, I 119 ChtL'an^s^-pTe^r^"- ^"'^''^^"'^ ^-^ '' ^'^ dfath S&s""'''*^"'* '^^ ^^"^ '^°^^- ^- 82. 83; Chassanis 'Tract, The te^r°" °/- I' 82; Hough's History of l^eu'ts County referred to, 82; Sylvester^ ge^%dt!,.i^L^^-^^i^fS |tYorl^-82-C^-:io^,lW%?v-a?tl£S ^^=;ha?^iol!S^?^i-^e/^'g Hough quoted, 84; Desjarfinsand Pha'roux fc°?L^^l"*!i ^x? *° America. 84; joined by 85 tro„h?'^^"^^BruneI. 84; first settlers on^ 85, troubles and wrangles, 85; Gouverneur Morns takes control of, 85; developments on lar'crJ^te"'^ ^'^^' ^^' '^^^rter expires. 85 teay^1<^S=.*8°5 ''"^'^ ^°-^-"- INDEX 369 Cheney, Hon. Albert E.. AdirondackRailroads. II. 135 Cheney, Jot^'. . x, ,. Bumppo, I, 123, 143, TirtltlAll^l 168. 169. 170; his early ;= ifi7 Chas F. HoSman quoted as to, Til T T Head ey quoted as to, 168; two '■° ' -^i i^wntures of 168-169; compared ;^?hNafFostl" 169 employed by Adiror. dack Iron Works, 170; marriage and death of 170 letter about his pistol quoted, 170 Laiiian quoted as to, 171; game record of , 171; II. 54,87, 112 Cheney Pond, I, 169 illlWr', jusdcl quoted as to Cornell College .. ^ift"" Pe7k Hous°'(Saranac Lake), I, 308 '''f^^lf^■T.'s^slif^l:n. 85; his proposal, 85; faith rewarded, 86 Choate,Ho.n. Joseph H., toprovement ?o"mmfssi?n.T5T6;f°a\orsl894 Amendment 190; opposes flooding, 2^1 Chub River, I. 346. 347 Chufifart. Capt. F. E.. I, 245 Church, Frederick E., I. 173 Clark, Roger P., H. 231 Clearwater, II, 140 grwtHtnS^Tri/^givts deed of John Brown farm to State. 197 Clifford, Reuben, 1,357 „.q_24i S!ro'.V&orPe*«o".%-!n?oV„ and Co,. field matter, 1,58 Clough, Mark, I. 332 Cluett, Walter H., I, 240 Coaches, the four and s-^ horse. II, Coats, Hon. H. P., I. 235 CoIbath,Hosea,I,251 Colburn, Mace, I. 251 Cold River, II, 77 Colden, David C, j-^^ ^^ Colden, Lake, I. 146, 155, IW Colden, Mt., I. 136 Cole, Alpheus, II, 43 Cole, Colonel Ashley W., U, lo Cole,JospehF., I. \o6 Coleman, Samuel, II, 4cS and Washington II, 14' gK^'fir^ew- fames, father of Verplanck Colvin, II, 166 j^at R. L. S. Colvin. Sir Sidney quoted as to w wrote in Saranac Lake, i, ^' Colvin, Verplanck, ^ I_ i54; dis- his measurement of Mt^ y^^^ quoted as ^°Tu^,n^;"r ^"a^^! 162; sketch of career, II, 164-167 Commission, ^, .or 216; see Forest, River Improvement, "• l°^''.'Forest Fish and Fisheries, Game and Fpi^f^^ 'p^rk ; State Park Game ■, Conservation ; State ra Committee, . „,.=„„ te II, 172; of Forestry of Senate to if^^^^i^ate^^^^o ^^S^.appoint- of Chamber of Comjuerce, J -^ 5 Sargeant ed by Comptroller Chapin ^^ ^ ^ment 175; report of Sargean^c-^t „ jort of Sargeant, 1/0, ^pp Martin, 176; report of E.^^^^^ of E. P: Martin, !'«= -^^B^^d of Trade and 176; i8q3. ^.'"'^^'l^' ill; Brooklyn Con- Transportation F^'^^^onstitutional Amend- ?^e^n1^^t^^ofNi-• appointed. 200; .ssues Committee on Legislation, II, 211 " Compagnie de New York, La," see Chassanis Tract Compton, Alfred G., II. 89 Comstock, Peter, I. 322, 335, 336 Congress of Physicians and Surgeons, I, 26.i Conservation Commission, created, II. 234; of three members, Zi.-y, division and powers of, 235; made single headed, 242; George D. Pratt appointed, 242; changes in Conservation Law. 241; educa- tional propaganda. 242; squatter Problcn. solved, 243; Saratoga Springs placed under. 245; education by lectures and pictures, A)U, news articles, 250; The Conservaliontsl.2.A; personal contact. 252; films and slides. ^52, future struggle. 255 , , , Conservation Law, II, 234; changes urged by Whitman, 241 Constable, James, I, 66 Constable, Town of, I, 66 "Tet'll^ofTi^'H?^,' I, 66; his part in Macomb Purchase. 67; sells land to Chassanis, 8^ Constable Point, 11-96 Constable's Towns, I, 66 Constableville, I, 66 Q^^tjnn 7 Constitutional Amendment, see Section <. Article VII Constitutional Convention, , the first, iS04. H, 189; the second, ,9:5. 243 Convention (Constitutional), II, 189 Cook, Fred, I. 331.334 Coop4r, George C, I, 254, 280 Ho^etfesL^fcarl^of' I, 22, 23; built Rustic ComeCGovernor. refers to Adirondacks in message, II. 171 Cornell College of Forestry, g g g'cC.^d.i'ii/sre^isrvri.s.HWo,. Cornell University. II. 202 Cornwall bridge, U. >^» . ,. Wilderness, !■ Couchsachrage, a name for the wua Col'n'titf irFoTett"p?:-vl'l.4; in Park or Co';ril^r0.1':.^ Sweeney Carry fight, I, 48 Cox, Townsend, 11, Ub Crawford's, II. 41. 4b Cronin. Mike guide. I, 156 Cusick. David, quoted, 1, ^i gSSlSifc.tiw Co.. Ml.... B.to. .. Dartmouth, Earl of. I, 56 Dauphin, mystery of lost, L 73 Davidson, Professor Thomas .^. ^^^^, dISS%?=1!:^-— Davil, BamettH., advice works as a boomer- Davli; Robin °eT2y'''' Dawson, George, I, ^^=1 Day. ChanceUor, I. 3bo jq Dean. Amos, pamphlet, ii."f. Decker's School. Mrs .I.^S.^t^tion ^^^■,, Dedications, m the Trudea" ^r Dedications, m ,'-"^; '."— j 286 of Stevenson s works l^f» j^_ gOO Deer, h°«"^'f civage I 300, 301 Delavan, Dr. J. savage, 370 INDEX Dennison, Mr., I, 233 Derby, Ed., I, 318 Derby, George, I. 331 Deserted Village, The (Adirondac), I, 140 Desjardins, Simon, agent for Chassanis Tract, I, 84 Dettweiler, Dr., I, 255 Dewey, Melvil, see Lake Placid Club Dexter, Henry, II, 143 Dexter, Orlando P., a student-recluse, II, 142; large estate of. 142; is murdered, 143 Dexter Lake, II, 142 Diana, Town of, I, 86 Dibble, Norman, II, 34 Dibble, Orion, II, 35 Dibble Street, in Prescott. I. 53 " Dibble's " (the Tahawus House), II, 48 Directors, wealthy Board of, Raquette Lake Railroad, II, 141 Dismal Wilderness, defined, I, 12 "Disturnell's Gazetteer," contains first mention of Mt. Marcy, I, 154 Dix, Gov. John A., suggests Conservation Commission, II. 234 Dixon, Joseph (" Graphite"), I, 142 Dix's Peak, I, 136 Does, killing of, permitted, II, 253; killing of, for- bidden, 254 Donaldson, Alfred L., I, 236 Dornburgh, Charlotte A. (Mrs. George L. Washburne), I, 139, 140 Dornburgh, Henry, author of Why the Wilder- ness is called Adirondack, I, 139; sketch of his life, 139-140 Dornburgh, Robert, I. 140 Dornburgh, William H., I, 140 Drid (Peter Waters), Indian killed by Nat Foster. I, 119 Ducey, Patrick A., first to saw down trees. II, 144; his mill at Brandon. 144; offers land to Paul &nith. 144; sells to William Rockefeller, 144 Duddingston Loch, I, 282 Dunham, Misses, II. 44 Dunlap, Miss, I, 184 Dunmore, Gov., I. 55 Dunning, Alvah, guide. II, 105; appearance of. 106; boyhood, 107; a proud moment. 108; the last moose, 109; his seclusion, 110; the hunter. 111; leaves camp, 114; goes West, 115; death, 116 Dunning, Dr. W. B., quoted as to Steve Martin, I, 309 Dunning, E. J. (Mrs.), quoted, I, 312 Dunning Camp, I, 308 Durant, Charles, II, 94, 113 Durant, Dr. Thomas C, his railroad career, II. 90; builder of Adiron- dack Railroad. 133. 135 Durant, Frederick G., II. 103 Durant, Thomas (Mrs.), II. 114 Durant, William West, buys much land, 11.91; builds artistic camps, 91; his Ulowana yacht, 91; loses law-suit. 91; Camps Beautiful. 92; introduces coaches, 94; establishes river boats. 94; founds many churches. 94. 107. 121, 133 Duryea, Colonel, II, 104 Duryea, Rev. Dr. Joseph, chaplain of Civil War. II. 77; friend of Lincoln, 78; addresses Congress, 78; saves Princeton. 78; camps at Long Lake, 78 Duryee, George V. W., I, 239 Duryee & Co., I, 239 Eagle Lake, II, 100, 102 "Eagle's Nest," II. 120 Early, maps and names of Lake Champlain, I, 11 Early health-seekers, I. 267 "Early Years of the Saturday Club," referred to, I. 181; quoted. 183 East Lake, I. 376 Eaton, Amasa M., his paper' on the "Gasp6eV referred to, I, 92 Eaton, Chas. M., former owner of Ampersand Hotel. I. 40 " Echo Lodge," I. 378 Eckford, Henry, II, 100 Eckford Chain, I, 124; II, 93, 100 Edgar, Edward C, first "sitter-out" in Saranac Lake, I, 267 " Edgewood Inn, The," footnote, I, 304 Editorial from " New York Times," II. 280- 282 Educational propaganda, by lectures and pictures. II, 251 ; news articles. 250; films and slides, 252; The Con- servationist, 251 "Edward Jessup and His Descendants," re- ferred to, I. 53 Edwards, A. F., railroad engineer, II, 133 Ehrich, Louis, I, 280 Elba Iron Works, I, 137, 346 Elizabethtown, I. 18, 20. 333 Elk, Whitney-Radford attempt to restore, I. 207; II. 210, 244. 245 Elks (New York State), Order of, liberate elks, II. 244; discourage the wearing of elk teeth, 245 Elliot, Dr. Daniel Giiand, I, 145 Ellis, Loring, I, 268 Ellis, Susan, I, 268 Elm, at Keene Valley, II, 30 Ely's map, W. W., I, 340 Emerson, Dr. Edward W., his Early Years of the Saturday Club referred to, I, 181; quoted. 183; letter of. giving key to Stillman's painting, 186-187 Emerson, Ralph Waldo, at the " Philosophers' Camp," 1, 178; his note- book sketches quoted, 179; The Adiron- dacks. II, 271-280 Emmons, Ebenezer, namer of the Adirondacks, I, 36; sketch of his life, 36-37j quoted as to naming of Mt. Marcy, 152; l)is measurement of Mt. Marcy. 154; quoted as to Long Lake, II, 65; his Geological Survey, 170 Emmons Mountain, II, 101 Epps, Lyman, II, 19 Epps family, the, II, 17, 18 Erie Canal, II, 131 Essex County, part in "blue line," I, 4 Estes,B. B., II, 33 Estes,Otis, II, 31, 33 Estes, Uncle Joe, saw slide on Whitefacc. I. 49 Estes House, II. 48 " Etching as a Diversion," II. 116 " Etiology of Tuberculosis," I. 253 Evans, Lucius, I. 232, 233 Evans Cottage, I. 267 Excelsior House, The (The Sterens House), I, 354 Fairchild, Mrs. Jane Hopkins, I. 240 Fairview Camp, II, 95 Falk, Miss Fanny, II, 44 Farm, John Brown's, location of, II, 3; is taken over by State. 17; signatories of the deed. 18; the iqi6 tablet at, 18; last drama and ceremony at, 22 Farrington, John H., I. 2.32 " Father Kent," a familiar Keene figure. II. 47 Faust, II. 140 Featherston, George, I. 341 Featherstonhaugh, Dr. Thomas, writes to Miss McClolIan, II, 20 Feldspar Brook, I. 163 Fenton, Orrin, I. 132. 133 Ferguson, Mose, I, 357 Fern Lake, I, 355 Fernow, Dr. B. E., training and writings. II, 202; called to Col- lege of Forestry, 202; his methods assailed. 206; goes to Toronto University. 203; Adirondack Forestry Problems, 200; Begin- nings of Professional Forestry in the Adiron- INDEX 371 Fernow, Dr. B. E. — Continued docks, 201; Economics of Forestry, 202; His- tory of Forestry in all Countries, 202 Ferris, Jacob, builds first sawmill, II, 155 Field, Miss Kate, II, 17 Field, Mrs. Salisbury, I. 289 "Field and Stream," I, 208 Films and slides, used by Conservation Com- mission, II, 252 Finnegan, Katherine, I, 219 Fire Finaer (Osborne), II, 226 Fire-places, see Open Fire Prevention, first act concerning, II, 178; first efficient system inaugurated, 225 ;obseTvationstations and other improvements, 226 Fires, see Forest fires First, liorses in Saranac Lake. I, 297; Rifle Club in Saranac Lake, 302; trees cut down by saw, II, 144; aeroplane in Adirondacks, 296; elec- tric lights in Adirondacks, 296; automobile, 296 First Bisley Lake, II, 160 First Pond, II, 63 Fischer, Professor George P., II, 45 Fish House, II, 129 Fisheries, Game, and Forest Commission, created, II, 196; members of, 196; began issu- ing expensive reports with colored plates, 197; name changed to Forest, Fish and Game Commission, 207 " Fishing Tourist, The," quoted as to Franklin Falls.7, 337 Fiske, Professor, II, 45 Fitch, John, 11,41,43, 45 Flanders, " Cone," II, 5 Flanders, Martin P., I, 356 Flanders, Miss Frances J., I, 356 Fleming, James W., succeeds Osborne as Com- missioner, II, 236 " Fletcher's," II, 90 " Floating annex," the, II, 92 Flooding, damage by, II. 208; suit by Dr. W. Seward Webb, 208; fight against Paul Smith's Co. for, 220; recommendation to allow, 222, 227 Flower, Governor, signs undesirable forest Bill, II. 184 Follensby, various spellings of, I, 177 FoUensby Clear Pond, I. 177 FoUensby Jr. Pond, I. 177 Follensby Pond, I, 172, 177 Fontainebleau, I, 245 Foote, Congressman, I, 149 Forest Commission, created. II. 167, 175; of three members, 178; increased from three to five members, 185; replaced by Fisheries, Game and Forest Commission. 196 " Forest Cottages," the, II, 95 Forest Fires, of i8o9. II, 201; emergency measures, 201; damage in iQOj, 214; inability to cope with, 215; Adirondack Lodge destroyed, 214; losses in iQo8, 223; campaign for better protection, 224; a conference, 224; special committee, 224; Osborne quoted, 224; of 1911. 236; from lightning, 236 Forest Fish and Game Commission, created, II, 207; reduced from five to three members, 208; becomes single headed, 213; replaced by Conservation Commission, 234 Forest Preserve, , .„„ , ^ I. 4- created. II, 167-175; defined. 177; defi- nition altered bv laws of 1885, 177; altered by laws oiiSgj, 185; Board created, 199; list of lands. 256 Forest Preserve Board, II. 199. 208 . Foresters, Independent Order of, buys Rainbow Inn, footnote, I. 22 Forestry Amendment, II. 195 Forestry, Bibliography of , first printed. II, 171); reprinted, 180 Forests, Superiuttrdent of, 11. 228 Forge House, The, I, 128 Fort Edwards, 11, 154 Foster, Nat, occupies Herreshoff Manor, I, 117; birth and marriage of, 118; his hunting record, 118- his appearance and disposition, 118; his neighbors on Brown's Tract, 119: the enmitv of Drid, 119; the shooting of Drid, 119-120- the trial of, 121; moves to Boonville and dies there, 121; sketch of his life in Trafi- Pers of New York, 121 ; biography by Byron- Curtiss 122; identity with Natty Bumppo claimed. 122; Hurlburt letter quoted, 122; V',^-A;°"™^° quoted, 123; compared with John Cheney, 169 Fouquet House (Plattsburg), I, 249 "Four-Track News," I, 208 Fox, Alanson, II, 152 Fox, Norman, II, 152 Fox, William F., his long service with State, II, 228; his forest record, 229; Forest Commission Report quoted as to, 229; Land Grants and Patents of Norlhern New York. 230; History of the Lumber Industry in New York, 230 Francis, John, son-in-law and partner of John Brown of Providence, I. 93; how he acquired John Brown's Tract, 96; scored in John Brown's will, 98; death of. 97 Francis, John Brown, favorite grandson of John Brown of Providence, I, 92; opens "No. 4." 133 Francis, Lake, 1,99, 133 Franklin County, part in "blue line," I, 4 Franklin County Library, I, 239 Franklin Falls, location, I, 335; early history of. 335; destroyed by fire, 1832, 335 Franklin House, The, at Franklin Falls, I, 335; destroyed by fire, 3.35; rebuilt by Peter Comstock, 336; list of owners, 337 Franklin Telephone and Telegraph Co., I, 237 Frederick the Great, I, 103 French's, former gateway to Whiteface Moun- tain, I, 338 Friedman, Dr., of Berlin, his "cure" at Algon- quin Hotel, I, 38 Fuller Law, the, II, 223 Fulton, Robert, I, 99; II, 101 Fulton Chain, II. 114 Fulton Chain Lakes, I, 99 Fulton Chain Station, (Thendara), I, 99, 128 Ganeagaonoga, Sylvester's name for the wilder- ness, I, 12 Gardner, Eva (Mrs. E. C. Z. Judson), II, 121 Gardner, Frank S., Secretary of New York Board of Trade and Transportation, II, 176; helps with Martin Bill, 177; father of Section 7, Article VII, 188; supplies data, 163; quoted as to State con- stitution, 188 Garrett, Horatio W., I, 254 Garvin, Hon. Francis P., II, 93 „ . , " Gaspee," sunk by John Brown of Providence, I, 90-92 Gay, Edward, II, 43 Gay, Mary, II, 30 Genealogy of, t 000 Millers of Saranac Lake, I, 222; Moodysof Saranac Lake. 214 General Hospital (Saranac Lake), I. 240 "Genesis of Ballantrae, The," quotations from I, 275-276 George III, L 52, 55 German Flats (Herkimer), I, la Gerster, Dr. Arpad G., tt o- k» supplies Raquette Lake data. II. 9o; be- friends Alvah Dunning, 106 Giant of the Valley, footnote, I. 49 Gibraltar of Forestry, II, 193, 237 Gifford, S. R.,I. 174 372 INDEX Gilliland, William, his Journal. I, 18; his Life by Watson, 18- sketch of his career, 18-20; Watson quoted,' 20; first visit to Ausable Chasm, 20 Gleumore Summer School, story of. II 50 Glens Falls, II, 1.54 "Gloria Victis," statue by Merci6, I, 265 Glynn, Gov., II, 239 Goldsmith, Aaron, I, 219 Goldsmith & Son, Aaron, I, 2.32 Goldthwaite, Kenneth W., I. 235 Goodelle, Judge Wm. P., II, 191 Gospel, School, and Literature Lots, act creating, quoted, I, 79; all in T. & C Purchase, 80; now belong to State, 80 Goss, Mrs. Mary Lathrop, her letter quoted about early days, I, 271-272 " Gougeville," II, 76 Grand View, I. 357 Gr^n^t jo^Totten and Crossfield, Indian, II, Graves, David, II, 29 Graves, Delia Ann, II, 30 Graves, Jonathan, II, 33 Gk-aves Hotel, II, 30 Gray, Charles, I. 2.33 Gray's Point, I, 377 " Great Eastern," The, I. 84 Green Mountains, seen by Champlain, I, 9 Greene, Caroline (Mrs. V. C. Bartlett), I 314 Greene County, in Forest Preserve, I 4 Greenleaf, James, I, 94 Greenough, Charlie, I, .332 Gregory, George, I. 145 " Growth of a Tree, The," noted pamphlet by Orson Phelps. II. 60 ^ f > Guide-boat, Adirondack, II, 79 G«^^<'es,^notable Long Lake. II, 81 ; registration Guilford (Conn.), I, 190, 192 Gunther, C. G., I, 223 Haase, Mrs. William H., footnote, I, 280 Hale, David, II, 35, 44 Hale, LeGrand, II, 35 Haley, Bartlett, " Little Barty," I, 314 Half-Moon, sails up Hudson. I, 9 Hall, Banjamin E., I, 223 Hall, Captain E. P., II. 21 Hall. Dr. Edward Hagaman, II, 211, 212 224 Hall, Harrison, guide, I, 155 Hall, Henry, I, 223 Hall, Miss, T''ion^i"^l'''°/'^^'=''" ^tu"-ay's first wife, I, 190; sketch of her career, 191 Hall, Sheldon, father of "Adirondack" Mur- ray s first wife. I, 190 Hall Point, I. 377 Halleck, Fitz Greene, I. 250. 262 Hallock, Charles, ^Fk^S'Fa"s"*337°*^'^' '^' ^^^'' "1"°*^^^^ to Hamilton County,' all in "blue line," I 4 Hammersley, Miss Libby, II 44 ' Hance, Dr. Irwin H., I. 2.')7 Hancock, Attorney General, denies right of way to Railway, II, 194 ^1°38 ^™' ^■' ^"^^ Algonquin Hotel in 1920, Hans^on, J. H., his The Lost Prince referred to, ^Hotef'/°3'8°' ^"""^^ P^'oPrietor of Algonquin Harney (Louis Fournier, Long Lake hermit). storv 01, 11, /4 Harper, A. R., 11, 159 Harper, Henry S., I, 157 Harper, William, I, 331 Harper's Ferry, II, 3, 8, 10, 12. 15, 18 19 21 Harnetstown, as town and village I 5 fi' Harriman, E. H., I. 247 Hart, William, II, 43 Hasbrouck camp. II, 94 Hatfield, Rev. Edwin, I, 190 Hathorn, Chauncey, II, 95, 102 Hawk Island, I. 376 Hayes, PoUy, I, 217 Hazelton, Moses, I. 213 Headley, J. T., ^"°^ed as to Brown's Tract and "Arnold's." 1, l/b; his p* Adtrondac. quoted as to John Cheney, 168; quoted as to Long Lake. II 67- ^»^^fl f^c^^'P^^'^ Sabattis, 82; refers to Mitchell Sabattis, 84 . ^ i.u Heart Lake (Clear Lake), II, 23. 25 Heise, Dr. Frederick H., I. 257 Hekking, A. H., II, 43 Henderson, Annie, I, 145 Henderson, Archie, I. 144. 145 Henderson, Charles Rapallo, Jr., I. 240 Henderson, David, ^^^■?Hnl''^''"^J'^° ^''°"'S him iron dam. I. 13/-138; purchases land for Iron Works 138- his lost journal, 139; made manager of Iron Works, 141; plans to produce steel, 141-142- builds Lower Works. 141-142; meets " Graph- ite Dixon, 142; establishes first cast steel plant in America, 142; his tragic death, 144- his body taken to Jersey City, 145; family and descendants of, 145; characteristics of, 14b; his wilderness monument. 146; effect of his death on the Iron Works, 146-147 Henderson, Lake, I, 136 Henderson, Maggie, I, 144, 145 Henderson, Mt., I. 136 Hendrick Spring, II, 75 Herkimer County, part in "blue line." I, 4 Herreshofif, Agnes Miihler, I. 103 HerreshofiF, Charles Frederick, birth and parents. I. 103; boyhood, 103; petted by Frederick the Great, 103; sent to Philanthropin School." 103; lands in New York, 104; his command of English, 104- visits Providence and meets John Brown,' • carries Sarah Brown, 105; fails in busi- ness 105; his children, 105-106; moves to Point Pleasant Farm. 106; makes costly im- provements, 106; loss of wife's income, 107; goes to John Brown's Tract, 108; herd of sheep driven from Providence. 109; tries mining for iron, 109; builds expensive forge, 109; collapse of all ventures. 109; the final tragedy, 110; removal of remains. 110; last letter to his wife, 111-112; last letter to his daughter Anna, 113-114 Herreshoff, Lewis, I, 88 Hewetson, Dr. S. W., I. 257 Hewitt, J. N.B.. quoted, 1,21 Higgins, Governor, II, 218 Higgmson, Colonel, advances money to the Browns. II, 9 ''High Peak of Essex" (Mt. Marcy), I, 47 Highland Park, I, 214, 218; II, 126, 240, 269 Higley, Warren, I, 205; II, 159, 210 .rU-*,, ■7*''^°''' Special Message of, II, 181 '■ Hillside, The," I, 379 Hinckley, Alexus. I, 17 Hinds, Billy, I. .331 Hinton, Colonel Richard J., II. 22 Historical Sketches of Franklin Co.," quoted <• ^^°^^ ^^'^story of Queensbury " quoted, I. ,52 History of th e Lumber Industry in New York." William F. Fox. II, 207 " ?fl^^°'" ^^' Trudeau's favorite dog, I. Hoar. Judge, at the "Philosophers' Camp," I, Hodenosaunee, early name of land west of Lake Champlain, I. 12 Hodenosauneega,area defined by Morgan. 1. 12 Hodge, Rev. \ViUiam H., II. 45 Hoffman, Chas. Fenno, originator of " Taha- w^us I. 4/ ; quoted as to Cheney and Bump- po, 123; his attempt to climb Mt. Marcy. INDEX 37S Hoffman, Chas. Fenno—Continued 153; his Wild Scenes in the Forest, quoted as to John Cheney, 167 Hoffman Tract, I, 80 Holden's" Historyof Queensbury" quoted I 52 Holland, John G., II, 90, 97; his first hotel burns, 97; the mill incident, 97; builds Blue Mountein Lake Hotel, 102; the hotel burns. Holmes, John, at the "Philosophers' Camp," I, 185; his Letters referred to, 185 Holmes, Oliver Wendell, refuses to join " Philo- sophers' Camp," I, 175 Holt, Alvah, II, 32 Holt, Harvey, I, 153, 358 Holt, Smith, II. 31 Homer, Winslow, II, 43 Honnedaga Lake, formerly Jock's Lake, I, 40 121; II, 160 Hopkinton, II. 126 Hopper, De Wolfe, I, 352 Horses, first in Saranac Lake. I. 297 Hough, Mr., builds "Saranac Inn," I, 317 Hough, the historian, quoted, I, 84; referred to, II, 130 Hough's"Historyof St. Lawrence and Franklin Counties," quoted, I, 43 Houghton, Jim, I. 267 Hounding of deer, abolished, II, 209 Hovey, Mrs. George, quoted as to early settlers on Brown's Tract. I. 116 Howe, Dr. Estes, at the " Philosophers' Camp," I, 184 Rowland, Henry E., II, 159. 211 "Hudson, The," by Lossing, referred to. I, 163; quoted as to Long Lake. II, 73 Hudson River, I, 9; on Sauthier's map, 13; highest pond source of, 162 Hudson River Telephone Co., I, 237 Hughes, Governor, orders an investigation. II, 223; receives the report of investigators, 231; suggests the issu- ing of bonds, 233 ; his forest record, 233 ; drafts a model Bill, 233 Hull, Mrs. Frank, II, 30 Hull, Otis H., II, 48 Hull's, 11, 48 Hunkins, Laura P., I. 295 " Hunter's Home," Paul Smith's first hotel, I, 322 Hunting season, shortened, II, 254 Huntington, Collis P., II. 91 Huntington, Prof. Ellsworth, his Is Civiliza- tion Determined by Climate? quoted. I. 241- 242 Hurd, John, railroad interests, II, 137; forcefulness, 138; religious tendencies, 139 " Hurd's Road," II, 137-140 Hurricane Mount, II. 50 In-ca-pah-co, II. 63 Independence River, I. 99 Indian, „„ occupation, I. 21-28; relics. 22; carry, 22, 23, 24; burying-ground. 24 Indian Carry, controlled by Swensons, I. 23; closed to public, 23 Indian Legends, _ ^. . . Old Indian Face, I, 29; The Division of the Saranacs, 30; An Event in Indian Park, 31; The Indian Plume, 32; Birth of the Water- Lily, 33 Indian Pass, location and description of, 1. 164; Prot. Emmons quoted as to. 164; Street's book on, referred to, 164; present day neglect of, Ibo; letter of P. F. Schofield quoted, 165-166; In- dian names for, 166; Gertrude Atherton quoted as to. 166; secondary sources of Hud- son and Ausable in 166 Indian Point (First Lake), I, 120; II, 113 Indians, no permanent settlements in Adirondacks, I 21; presence of an earlier people suggested. Inger^'l^rFVaS tfi^'''' ^^°''''^'"^' '' ^"l53™' ^' ^■' ^''^ sketches of Marcy region, I, Injunction, ^y Henry W. Boyer. II. 194; by friends of forest. 196; against Paul Smith's Co.. 225 "Inwood, The," 1,379 Iron dam, I. 138 Iron ore deposits in Essex County, I, 137 Iroquois, I. 12 Iroquoisia, "land of Iroquois" around Lake Champlain, I. 11, 12 Jackson, Frank M., I, 237 James, Dr. Walter B., footnote, I, 259 James, Professor William, II, 45 Jameson, E. C, I, 380 Jamieson, Dr. W. H., I, 257 Janet Lake, II. 101 Janeway, Dr., I. 246. 247 Jarvis, Hugh S.,I, 378 Jay, I, 336, 339 Jay (Lower Jay), location of, I, .338; its growth. Jay, Upper, I, 338, 339 Jenkins Hill, I, 251 Jenkins Pond (Lake Madeleine), I, 74 Jessup, Ebenezer, Sketch of career, I, 51-53; goes to India and dies there, 53; grandfather of Morris K. Jesup, 53; laid out T. & C. townships, 57; his 55-mile line, 76 Jessup, Edward, sketch of career, I, 51-53 Jessup, Joseph, I, 51 Jessup's Falls, I, 52 Jessup's Ferry, I, 52 Jessup's Lake, I, 61 Jessup's Landing, I, 52 Jessup's Purchase, same as Totten and Cross- field's Purchase, I. 51 Jessup's River, I, 61 Jesup, Morris K., philanthropist, grandson of Ebenezer Jessup. I, 53; his interest in Forest preservation. II. 172, 173. 177 Jesup, Rev. Henry Griswold, author of Edward Jessup and His Descendants, I. 53 Jo Mountain, named in honor of Miss Scofield, II. 25 Jock's Lake, I. 40; (Honnedaga). 121; referred to. II. 160 "John Brown: A Biography Fifty Years After," quoted, II. 11 John Brown Association, The, list of promoters, 11. 18 John Brown's Tract, , , „ acreage of, I. 88; named after John Brown of Providence. 89; originally J. J. Angerstein Tract. 94; various sales rehearsed. 94; James Greenleaf buys. 94; mortgage to Philip Liv- ingston. 94; Benton's History of Herkimer County quoted, 95; how John Brown became the owner of. 96 ; how his partner came by the deed. 96; his will quoted as to John Francis and partition of. 97-98; lakes and rivers m. 99; Fulton Chain and Robert Fulton. 99; John Brown's Tract Inlet, 99-100; Raquette Lake R. R.. 99; Brown's Tract Ponds. 100; division into eight townships with unusual names. 101; Snyder's paper quoted as to settlements started by Brown in Townships 1 and 7. 101-102; third and last attempt to settle Township 7. 116; Chas. Fred. Herres- hoff moves to. 108; settlers lured to, 115; the "Herreshoff Manor," 115; the first wed- ding on, 115; story of man threatened by judge with deportation to, 117; efforts of John B. Francis on. 114; Nat Foster settles on. 117; the shooting of Drid. 119-120; Otis Arnold settles on. 123; the shooting of James Short, 127; Herreshoff Manor burns, 127; 374 INDEX John Brown's Tract— CoM/»««ed Jvady Amelia Murray crosses. 124- her de- scription of "Arnold's." 124-125 Headlev quoted as to first lad^ camperT 126; tar!y description of, in Putnam's Magazine -Arnold-. ??.~^I^=T, ^^^'^ description'^of 1^?. M!?i ^l J.- B- Thorpe, quoted. 131- T«i i ^°- f • ^r^^ Omn Penton, 132-135 Johnson, WiUard, I. 119 Johnson Hall, II, 125 Johnstown, I, 15; II, 129 ■^''S'sl'''^**"^' ^^^ ""^ Mitchell Sabattis, II. Josly'n, C. D., I, 380 Joy. Major Abiathar, I, 115 Jndson, Dr. Edward, I, 378 nlT' ^***"^ ^""^ Carroll, s€e Ned Bunt- Kane, Miss Mary A., I. 257 Keene Center (Keene), the first settlers. II, 29; the first hotel (now standing), 30; the giant elm. 30 ^ Ke^e^ne Valley, location of, II, 29; its rare beauty. Keeae Valley (Keene Flats). t^''iL^^"'."'io"■.3^• fi^^t s«=hool. 32; school Irffit- °u- ■^^' fi"' school trustees, 33 artists .rallying-ground. 43; a rendezvous for professional men, 45; Shurtleff, quoted as to, 34 : th'^^rhn °n h °^- ^^i F°^^^ °f ^^^ school J4, the school library, 35 Keene Valley Country Club, II, 34 Keene Valley Inn (Blinn's Hotel), II, 49 Keene Valley Library, II, 32" Keese's Mills. II. 40 Keese's Mills, II. 40 KeeseviUe, I. 333. 336. 342 KeUer, Miss Amelia, II. 96 Kellogg, Henry D., II. 66 Kellogg, Orrin, guide, I, 156 Kendall, Charles H., I, 234 Kendall, Dr. Frank E.. I, 237, 342 343 343^"'^ Pharmacy (Saranac Lake), I. 237 Kenwell, Ike, II, 95 " Kickerville," II. 76 Kidder, Dr. Scott, I, 222 Kingsley, William L., II, 34. 45 Kirby, Miss C. T., I. 256 "Kitty," Dr. Trudeau's horse. I, 259 flJIt^f ^^^'^"^^^^'yT^^^^so^e Pond. I, 41 Knevals, Sherman W., II 178 '^^'*^^*'^''^*=''^'' Magaaine," II. 118 Koch, Dr., I. 2.53. 255 Kollecker, W. F., I, 237 Konoshion, early name of land west of Lake Cnamplain. I, 12 Kora Lake (Sumner), II. 93 Kossuth, Louis, I, 174 Krumbholz. T. E., I. 304; 305. 378 Kushaqua, Lake, formerly Round Pond. 1, 41- site of btonywold Sanatorium ,41 Laboratory (Saranac Lake), I, 254 La Casse, Noah, guide, I, 155 Ladew, J. Harvey, II, 95 Laight, Dr., II, 31. 45 Lake Placid (the lake), piyn^'°°l7«^' ^- ■'^^^' """^^ "^^ 377; Paradox fona. S/b; prominent campers on. 377- prominent hotels on. 378-380; early boats on.' Lake Placid (the village), location of I 346; Bennett's Pond, 346; early settlers of. 347; rambling growth of 347- near-by hotels of early days, 348- later-dav •V*^'' r^-J.^'^'^ L?^« P'^^id Club 365; first store of. 357; main street of. 357 Lake Placid Club (Melvil Dewey), location of. I, 365; description of by T. Morris Longstreth, 366-374 yi-iviorris "tir^fi?i&r/-|»{ Company. I. 381 K:Sa^rKi^"'^3 Lamora, Oliver, story of, II, 145-148 Lamson, Sarah E., I. 296 " v*°? ,?T?,?,'? ""<* Patents of Northern New York." William F. Fox. II. 230 S^,*y°' 9*S«^'es, I. 153; his Adventures in the W^l^s^of America quoted as to John Cheney! ^f*2"' ^f'- .Walter H., I. 239; II, 139 Lathrop, Azel, original settler on Trudeau site, I, 268- 9fiS'i'K °L^'I ''^^' 268; his house described," 269; builds first school in his section, 269' founds Lathrop, Mich., 270 ' Latour, Duffield, I, 332, 333 Law, see Act Lawrence's Tract, I, 81 Lead mine, " ni!f 4^*° u "7- *° ^""^ >*•!• 25; known to T .«? 1%^- ^V possible location of. 26 Leasmg of Forest lands, first recommendation for, II 17Q iqo. amendment fails, 199 ' LirCof^n^'e'; Fra^nc^lffl.^g^'^'^^-'^"' "" ^^^ Legends, see Indian Legget, William Fox, I. 377 Legislature, outline of legislative control, II. 163; divided P^X^f^^^%o^^'l^'^> ^^^} ^"^''on towards a ^ul^d \kl^'' ^"thonzes first Topographical iurvey! 174 ' ^"*^°"^" ^^^t State Land Lenawee, in Indian Plume Legend. I 32 LeRay de Chaumont, James Donatianus interested in Chassanis Tract. I. 85'; once f^^t^ Harrietstown. 86; built first good road o« ,"iH''" County, 86; founded LeRay ville. %*'l iJ^^^^ ^° Bonaparte and Madame de btael. 86; dies in France. 86 LeRay de Chaumont, Vincent, I. 86 LeRayvilIe, I, 86 ^^fser Tracts, The, list and description of 17, " Letters from the Backwoods," quoted as to Long Lake, II. 67; quoted as to Captain Sabattis. 82 Lewis County, in Forest Preserve. I 4 Lewis Grab Bill, II, 214 Libby, Professor O. G., II, 21 Libraries, in Saranac Lake. I. 239 .. ^oo^n'o"' \%T °' ''''"''' ^"°« «""•" "Life and Letters of John Brown," quoted as ^^ to John Brown, II, 4 Life and Letters of John Todd," II, 64 Lightning, fires from, II. 236 Lila. Lake (Smith's Lake), I. 135 Lintner.J. A..II. 182 List. bodies re-interred at John Brown's farm, II, 21; early settlers at Long Lake, 66; Adiron- otc n '""^^.^s. 141; appropriation for land. 255; Forest Preserve Lands. 256; altitudes of mountains. 283; trees. 285; mammals. 286- T •7Ei*^^'" i^^^- 287-291 ; birds. 291-296 Litchfield. Edward H.. his park described. I. 74; his castle described. .74-75; his love of big game, 75; brings suit involving T. & C. boundary. 75-77 Litchfield vs. Sisson. the line involved. I, 74; story of Indians and r"'"'J^\S?"P'^^"'s'i°e, 76; Jessup's 55-mile line, 76; Mitchell's line. 76; Wright's line 76- opinion of Referee Kellogg quoted. 77 ; appeal dismissed, 77; old survey discovered, foot- note. 76 Little Moose Lake, II, 161 Little Rapids, I. 261 ;; Little Red," I, 256 " ^'"}f ^«d," The, not first building ever built on Sanitarium site, I, 266 INDEX 375 Livingston, Christina, second wife of Alex. Macomb, I, 63 Livingston, Isaac, I, 213 Livingston, Jim, I, 247 Livingston, Lou, I, 247 Livingston, Philip, I, 63, 94; II, 63 Livingston Manor, I, 15 Livingstone, Dr. (David), I. 11 Locomotives, Adirondack, obliged to burn oil. II, 240 Lonesome Pond, I, 41 Long lake, broad channel of Raquette River, II, 63; Indian name of, 63; location of, 63; Dr. Todd and, 64; the first church service at, 65; J. T. Headley quoted as to, 67; remoteness of, 67; first sawmill of. 68; growth of, 69; pamphlet advertising, 69; list of early settlers, 66; first death at, 71 Long Lake Colony, II, 67 Long Lake Village (Gougeville), location of, II, 76; first church of, 76; stone beach near, 76; development of, 77; lack of good road connections, 77; Amendment, per- mitting State road from Saranac Lake to, 77; first Adirond^k guide-boat built at, 79 Long Neck, I, 72 Long Point, II. 96 Longfellow, refuses to join "Philosophers' Camp," I, 175 Longstreth, T. Morris, quoted as to view from Mt. Marcy, I, 150- 151 ; quoted as to Lake Placid Club, 366-374 Loomis, Dr. Alfred L., II, 182 Loomis, Dr. Hezekiah B., I, 323 Loon Lake House, story of, I, 355-356 Lossing, Benjamin J.,hisTke Hudson referred to, I, 163; II, 54, 73 Lossing, Mrs., II, 54, 73 " Lost Prince, The" (Louis XVII), referred to, I, 73 Lothrop Stretch, I, 72 Lough Neagh, I, 72 Lowell, James Russell, at the "Philosophers' Camp." I, 180 Lower Works (Tahawus P. O.), I, 141. 142 Lowrie, Rev. Samuel T., buys home from Orson Phelps, II, 62 Lumbering, Adirondack, local terms, II, 150; log-lengths, 152; early carelessness, 153; log railroads, 156. hard- wood, 157; romance gone, 158; thefts, 217; history of by Col. Fox, 230 Lundy, Rev. John Patterson , his Saranac Exiles discussed. I. 228; quoted, 220; his stay in Saranac Lake, 229; sketch of his career, 229 Luzerne, home of the Jessups. I, 52 Lyman, Colonel Henry H., II, 18 Lynch, Rev. Father, II, 19 Lyon, Martin C, I, 365 Lyon's Hotel, a pioneer halfway house, 365 McAlpin, E. A., I, 60 McCabe, Patrick, appointed Commissioner, II, 240; appoint- ment criticized, 241 McCarthy, Hon. Dennis, II, 95, McCleland, Jamie, I. 125 McClellan, Dr. E. S., I, 240 McCleUan, Katherine E., , . , her connection with the buna! of John Brown's followers, II, 20-22 McClenathan FaUs, II, 132 McClure, Hon. David, presents Amendment to Convention. II, 190 McConnell, Wm. F., supplies data, II, 163; takes document to Albany, 190 McCord, George, II. 43 McCormick, Daniel, . ^, , sketch of his life, I. 66-67; his part in Macomb Purchase, 67 McFarlane, Peter, II, 137 Mcl^ntyre, Archibald, I, 137, 139, 140. 149, 152. Mclntyre, Caroline, I, 149 Mclntyre, John McD., I, 138 139 Mclntyre, R. H., I, 2,J6 Mclntyre Bank, I, 143 Mclntyre Iron Co., I, 149 Mclntyre Iron Works, I, 140 Mclntyre Mt., I, I,;6 164 Mclntyre Village (Ad'irondac). I, 14« McKee, F. H., I, 232 McKillip, Dan, I, ,J31 McKim.J. M.,II, 13, 16 McKmley, President, I. 155, 157 McLaughlin, Bill, II, 139 McLaughlin, Chester B., II, 191 McMahon, Dennis, I, 267 McManus, Phil., I, 331, 332 McMartin, Judge Duncan, I, 138, 139, 141 McMartin, Malcolm, I, 137. 138 Mac Nanghton, James, I. 149, 155 McQuillan, Henry, I, 331 Macauley, Abigail, I, 219 Macbeth, Madge, I, 211 Machold Law, passes, II, 245; is amended, 245; operation delayed by World's War, 246 Mack, David, father-in-law of Wra. J. Stillman, Mackenzie River, I, 209, 211 Macomb, Alexander, sketch of his life, I, 62-66; the "Million Bank," 64; imprisonment, 64; buys land near Spuyten Duyvil, 64; his house, 65; builds mill, 65; interest in hydraulics, 65; dies at home of soldier son, 66 Macomb, John, I, 62 Macomb, Robert, I, 65 Macomb Patent, II, 184 Macomb's Dam Bridge, I, 65 Macomb's Purchase, location and areas of. I, 62; assignment of first patents, 67; " Macomb Patent," the, 68; application for, text of, 68; early resales, 70; new tracts carved out of, 70; Great Tracts I. II, III, described, 70; names of 27 townships in Great Tract I, 70; story of Lough Neagh, 71; political criticism of, 72; attempt to m- volve Gov. Clinton, 72; price fixing, 73; St. Regis Reservation, 73; mystery of lost dauphin, 73; Rev. Eleazer Williams, 73, 74; Hanson's The Lost Prince referred to, 73 Madeleine, Lake (Jenkins Pond), I. 74 Maine Company, II. 155 Maintenon, Madame de, I, 46 Malbone, Sarah Eleanor, I, 221 Malby, Senator, II. 198. 220 Mallory, Nathaniel, I. 339 " Mallory's Bush," I, 339 Mallory's Grant, II, 31 Malone, II, 152 Mammals, Adirondack, II, 286 Man, Major, I, 25 Manasquan (N. J.), I, 274 „ _• , Manning, Estella E. (Mrs. Wm. A. Martin), first girl telegraph operator in the Adiron- dacks, I, 268; sketch of her career, 268 Manning, Gabriel, I, 331 , . , Manning, Mrs. Gabriel, daughter of Azel Lathrop, I, 270 Manning, Mr. and Mrs. Thomas, 1, 333 Mansfield, James, II. 21 Mansfield, Richard, I, 287 Map, earliest to show region, I, U Maple Grove Mountain House, It, 4« Marcy, Dr., I, 380 ., r i-^o Marcy, Gov. William Learned, I, 152 ^fts" height', I, 150; Longstreth quoted as to view from summit of, 150-151 ; first a.scent of. 152; Prof. Emmons quoted as to ijaming of, 152-153; early climbers of_ note 152; Hon- man's experience. 153; ongm of Indian name "Tahawus." 154; various measurements of. 154- Catskills considered higher than. IM, 376 INDEX Marcy, Mt.— Continued exact location of, 155; Roosevelt's night ride from, 156-156; Victory Mountain Park project, 167 Marion Lake, II, 101 Marion River, II, 97, 101 Marston, Edwin S., II, 189, 211 Martin, Clarinda, I, 294, 295 Martin, Edmund Philo, appointed chairman of special committee. II, 176; introduces new Bill, 176; is offered Commissionership, 178 Martin, Fred, guide, I, 247 Martin, Henry Kilburn, I, 306 Martin, Henry Wheeler, kills last mouse around Saranac Lakes, I, 294 Martin, Stephen C, birth and marriage, I, 308; his career, 308; Murray's description of, 309; letter describ- ing, 309 Martin, Susan, I, 294, 295 Martin, William Allen, only son of William F., I, 295; birth and boy- hood of, 305; marries Estella E. Manning, 305; his love of machinery and boat-building, 305; forms partnership with T. Edmund Krumbholz, 305; his light guide-boats called ■■ Willie Allen's egg-shells," 306 Martin, Wm. A. (Mrs.) I, 292 Martin, William Fortune, his father, birth, and death, I, 294; his ap- pearance and disposition, 295; his first wife and their children, 295; death of his only daughter, 296; his ride through the snow for a doctor, 296; his second wife. 296; leases Captain Miller house. 298; decidesto build on Lower Lake. 298; description of new hotel, 298; the "hole in the house," 298; letter de- scribing the trip to " Martin's," 298; the old guide house, 299; the moving into new hotel. 299; distinguished guests and their relations with. 299; his character and traits. 300; his interest in medicine. 301 ; letter of old patron quoted, 301 ; his skill with his little rifle, 302; his fondness for cards and dancing, 303 ; loses his hotel, 303; builds another hotel, 303; his failing health and death, 304 Martin's Hotel, location of, I, 292; Murray's description of, 292; Wallace's description of, 293; first of its kind, 298; the "hole in the house," 298; dis- tinguished guests at, 299; sold under fore- closure in i88i. 303; becomes the "Miller House," 303; destroyed by fire, 303; early health-seekers at, 267 Mason, James Brown, I, 93 Masons, I, 238 Masten, Arthur H., I, 140, 149 Mather, Fred, II, 109, 117, 120, 122, 182 Matthews, John, II. 45 Mayer, Attorney-General, II, 218 Meacham, Sam, II, 127 Meadowbrook Farm, I. 239 "Medical Pickwick, The," II, 116 "Memorials of Thomas Davidson," II. 51 " Men I Have Fished With," II. 117, 122 Mercator, greatest geographer of his age, I, 11 Mercie, I, 265 "Meriden Literary Recorder," I, 193 Merkel, Joseph, I. 237 Merriam, John, I. 267 Merritt, General Edwin A., II, 18 Merritt-O'Neil, resolution presented, II, 222; resolution defeated. 222 Merwin, Tyler, builds Blue Mountain House. II, 102 Meserve, George, I, 331 Message, by Governors, Dix, II. 171, 234; Cornell, 171; Hill, special, 181; Black, 199; Roosevelt, 207; Odell, 208; Hughes, emergency. 223 Middle Falls, between Round and Lower Saranac Lake, I, 307; State dam at, footnote, 308; Middleton, DeWitt C, II, 213, 218 Miller, Annie O., I, 220 Miller, Capt. Pliny, pioneer settler in Saranac Lake, I, 216; his wife and children, 217; 238, 343 Miller, Eleanor S., I, 221 Miller, Ensine, his two houses, I, 217; his two marriages and children, 217, 218; his character and pursuits, 218; his death, 218 Miller, Helen M., I. 221 Miller, Homer, I. 217, 238 Miller, John J., built original "Riverside Inn," I, 219; 331 Miller, Mary A., I, 238 Miller, Matt., I, 331 Miller, Milo Bushnell, sketch of his career, I, 218. 219; 232, 233, 236, 239, 303, 308 Miller, Mrs. Julia A., I, 256 Miller, Prof, (of Princeton), I, 152 Miller, Rev. Elmer P., sketch of his career, I, 221 ; accepts call to St. Luke's Church. 221 Miller, Roxy, I, 308 Miller, Seaver A., I, 221 Miller, Van Buren, moves to Saranac Lake, I, 219; his house still standing, 220; his many activities, 220; his interest in education. 220; opens State road to Bartlett's. 220: entails heavy loss. 221 ; his death, 221; his wife and children, 221 Miller, Warner, II, 159 Miller House, I, 292, 298. 299 Millers (of Saranac Lake), genealogical table of, I, 222 Miller's Pond, I, 41 " Million Bank " bubble, I, 64 Mills, Col. A. G., I. 379, 381: II, 159 Minshull, William, I. 236 Mirror Lake ^ennett's Pond), I, 346, 362 Mirror Lake House, I, 357 Mitchell, Medad, surveyor, I, 76 Moira, II. 137 Monell, Mrs. Judge, I. 346 Montgomerv County, I, 16 Moody, A. W., I, 3.'}7 Moody, Cortez Fernando, first white baby born in Saranac Lake. I, 214 Moody, Daniel, I. 214 Moody, Eliza, I. 214 Moody, Franklin, I, 214 Moody, Harvey, quoted as to Whiteface, I, 49; 214 Moody, Jacob Smith, first settler in Saranac Lake, I. 213; sketch of his career, 214 Moody, Martin, sketch of his career, I, 215 Moody, Smith, I, 214 Moody homestead, I, 214 Moody, P. O., I, 215 Moody Pond, I, 214, 282 " Moody's," earliest name for Saranac Lake, I, 215 Moodys (of Saranac Lake), genealogical table of, 1,214 Moose, movement to restore them, I, 205; Radford's Bill passed and signed, 206; first shipment liberated. 207; the last Adirondack. II, 109; article by Madison Grant, 208; Radford Moose Bill, 209 Moose Island, I, 376. 380 Moose River (North Branch), I. 99 Moose River Tract, I. 81; II, 159 " Moosewood, The," I, 380 Morgan, J. Pierpont, II, 93 Morris, Gouverneur, manages Chassanis Tract, I, 85 " Mother Johnson's," I. 199 Mountain Home Telephone Co., I. 237 Mountain Peaks, Adirondack, II. 283 Mountain View Lake, 1. 25 Murray ("Adirondack"), William Henry Harrison, his birth,youth,and schooling, 1, 190; sketch of his career, 190-191 ; callto Park Street Church, INDEX 377 Murray, etc. — Continued Boston, 1901, 91; founds the Music Hall In- dependent Congregational Church, 192- vanishes suddenly, goes to Texas. 192; opens restaurant in Montreal, 192; begins lecturing 192; travels abroad. 192; retires to Guilford'. 192; publication of his Adventures in the Wilderness, 193; the "Murray Rush." 194; satire in Harper's Magazine quoted, 195' his Adventures discussed. 196; apostrophe to "Honest John," 196; "Nameless Creek" ad- venture, 196; "Phantom Palls" adventure 197; "Jack-Shooting in a Foggy Night," 198; his praise of "Mother Johnson's," 199; his error about lumbering, 199; his camp on Osprey Island, 199; his farewell tribute to "Honest John," 200; his friendship with Harry V. Radford, 209; his biography by Radford, 210; quoted as to " Martin's." 292; quoted as to Steve Martin, 309; II. 90; 113,' Murray, Lady Amelia M., her Letters quoted, I, 124-125; first lady to ,, cross wilderness, 125; guest of honor. 215 Murray, Wallace, I, 235; II. 30 " Murray Rush," The, I. 194 Music Hall Independent ConKreeational Church, I, 192 "Myths and Legends of Our Own Land," quoted I, 29-33 " Nameless Creek," I, 196 Nash, Jim, I, 365 Nash, Joseph V., owner of Nash's hotel, I. 349; his threshing machines, 349; his wife (Aunt Harriet), 349; builds Excelsior House. 354 Nash, R., I, 349 Nash's hotel, location of, I, 349; "Uncle Joe." the owner. 349; early guests. 350 Nash's Pond (Mirror Lake), I. 346 Natty Bumppo, I, 122-123 Navarre, Catherine de, first wife of Alex. Macomb, I, 63 "Ned Buntline's Own," II, 119 Negro farms, the, how divided, II, 6; transient guests of, 6 Nehasane Lake (Albany Lake), I, 41, 135 Nehasane Park Preserve, II, 140 Neilson, JohnF., I, 236 New York Board of Trade and Transportation, organized, II, 170; joins with Chamber of Commerce. 173; is left alone in fight. 173; Special Committees of 1883, 172; fights the Adirondack Battle of the Marne. 174; op- poses act signed by Gov. Flower. 185; ap- points special Committee on Constitutional Amendment, 188; and A. P. A. defeat Lewis Grab Bill. 213; opposes building of dams by Paul Smith's Co.. 220; fights Merritt-O'Neil resolution. 222 "New York Journal and Patriotic Register" quoted, I, 64 New York Telephone Co., I.. 237 Newcomb, I. 170 Newhall, Henry B., I. 381 Newman, Miss Anna, cousin of Dr. Henry Van Dvke, I. 358; friend of the Holts. 358; her traits and sifts, 358; fond of hunting, 358; buys the Holt farm. 1872,359; eccentricities of, 360; the fruitless farm, 360; fondness for horses. 361; her benevolence. 361; tribute paid to her name. 362; the broken leg incident. 362; death of. 363 Newman, village of, I, 358-362 . Newspaper, pulp requirements alarming, II, 212 Newspapers, in Saranac Lake, I, 235 Nick's Lake, I. 127; II. 161 Nightingale, Florence, footnote, I. 257 Niles, Miss Carry, I. 314 Nobleborongh Tract, I, 81 Noke's settlement, II. 127 NorthCreek, I, 334; II. 135 North Elba, tradition of Indian settlement. I. 26 27- Town organized. 347 ' 'North Jay," I. 340 North River Head Tract, I. 80 Norton, Charles fihot. stays away from "Philo- sophers' Camp." I 175 / "«" rmio Norton, C. F., kin^'^f-^fi? Carry fight I 48; the lumber .< «T "^: *y"' ""ys in Prankhn Palls. 336 Notch Road," I. .331, .341. 343 Number Four," location of. I. 132; origin of name. 132 ; opened ?y Gov. Francis. 133; inducementstosettlers 133; Orrin Penton builds hotel on 1,33- btevens pamphlet about. 134; Fenton sells to Lewis. 135; see Appendix B.. II. 260-271 Nursery, Forest, appropriation for. II, 209; established at Saranac Inn. 213,- at Wawbeek and Axton taken over by State. 217; experimental station established. 221 Nursery Station, Experimental. II. 221 O'Brian, "Fitch" (A. F.), the dean of stage- drivers. I. 331 ^ Observing Station, inaugurated, II. 225- de- scribed. 226 Oil burning locomotives, ordered by law. II. 240 O'Kane, James, hermit, I, 134 " Old Beard," a wandering tinker. I. 363; goes to the poorhouse. 364; the hidden money. 364 OldForge.I, 114. 128; 11,77, 140 "Old Merchants of New York City." I. 66 Old Military Road, I, 269; II. 72 Old Military Roads, II, 123-130 Old Military Tract, description of, I. 78; why it was created. 78; origin of name. 79; boundaries of. 79; largest townships are in. 79; places within, 79 "Old Rome and the New, The," bv W. J. Still- man, contains chapter "The Philosophers' Camp," I, 172 " Om-soo-wee," I. 378 Onchiota, I. 41 Oneida County, in Forest Preserve, I, 4 O'Neil, Frederick, I. 270 O'Neil, Hon. Wm. T., I, 270 O'Neill, Tom, II. 40 Opalescent River, I. 163 Open fire-places, first in Lucius Evans' house. I. 226; second i« Andrew Baker's house, 226 Ortelius, Abraham, maker of earliest map, I. 1 1 Osawatomie, II. 7. 9, 18. 22 Osborne, Thomas Mott, quoted as to fires in jgoS. II. 224; appointed Commissioner. 235 ; resigns. 2,36 ; suggested as Conservation Commissioner. 235 Osbourne, Lloyd, quoted. I. 283; revisits Saranac Lake. 289 Oseetah, in Water-Lily Legend. I. 33 Oseetah Lake (Miller's Pond), I. 41 Osgood, Iddo, I. .347 Osier, Dr., I. 2.53 Osprey Island, I. 199; II. 95. 113 Otis, Dr. Fessenden, I. 246 Otter Creek, 1.99 "Overlook," 1.379 " Owl's Head Inn." II. 30 Oxbow Tract, 1.81 Oxen, I, 299; II, 4 Palmer Hill, I. 268 Palmer's Purchase, I, 80 Pamphlet, Amos Dean's, II, 69 ... Panama Canal, first suggested by Champlain. I, 9 Paradox Pond, I, 374, 376, 383 Paradox Tract, I, 80 Park, see Adirondack Park Avenue. II, 126 Park Street Church (Boston), I, 190 Parker, George C, II. 43 378 Parks, private, II, 148 Parton, Arthur, II, 43 Parton, Ernest, II, 43 Patrol system, II. 226 INDEX Patrol system, II. 226 Pattpn, Henry, II, 159 %"lil?o^^"c^oSa^ir ^'^'^ '""^ ^''^^ "«» mafe^' n,!!' Pf il'°°l:*° b"-'! dams, II, 219; _ ' , — • t'^-"-i""o I.U uuiia aams, il. 21' Po^s^d^ t2?i:°^.?,r.?L^*>'-..iL9_^ petition ^p- Pa'y"ni?le'n^jS^S Yfy^*' w.ns^suit^lsa'^^' Payne, Betsy, II, 29 ' Payne, Henry C, II, 147 Peacock, Thomas, supplies John Brown data, Sparse Edward L.. I, 317, 318 60; 182 ' ''"°*^*^ ^^ *° ^"°° Phelps. II, Peck's Corners, II, 127 pSTm^.^'h'^"'""'"-*^ piJSrit^'iT"!"*""'"'''' "■ ^ "Personal Reminiscences," II 84 dack'°l"49'""^'°^' ^^''^ "^"^ ^^-^ ^'li^O"- Pettis. C. R., his career, II, 230 Phantom FaUs " (Buttermilk), I, 198 Ph^fpTFantli\T*'°^ ^^^^-'^•^ ^-^*- ^' S^ ^'l!llJf^?'?°K^f^°^^,!'^ (0'^ Mountain), 63 hi, honfi"'.°,'°l'*'"v."' ^■^■' ^'^ boyhood, faviifir ??!,'-^^' ^^^^ ^^'"'=y trail, 7^40, 54; tion of by Warner. 54; writes a poem 60- •' ^^yi^^ul'^'^^V^I^'^^^ ■' death of ,62 ' ni^P.l'anthropin," The, I. 103. 1Q4 Phi hps, Wendell. II, 15. 16 Philosophers' Camp, The, popular name of Adirondack Club I 172- gathlr'in'^'^yl'H ''* *?^''"^' 1/2; date of first Th^ A^^r., I ' 'ies^'ption of, in Emerson's son at 78 °T?"°*^^ ^^ ^° ''""tine of Emer- Stnii^L il^ ^""^""^ notebook sketch of btillman, 179;Agassiz at, 179; Lowellat ISO Judge Hoar at, 180; Prof. Vi^yman at ifo^ 182- Dr° F,Vh^-^^ = "°^^*'° Woodman at iff: Stilfr^^l^"''^!^*- '«4; John Holmesat. the 'ri,,/.^ ^ water-color sketch of. 186- Vn„ n u ''"^^ Ampersand Pond. 187- Dr cfubh°ol'se.T8°9*^'^ ^^ *° ^"'^ «^ Amp'eVsa^d- " w'qfn"''^"' ^*™P' The," an essay by James W.^St.llman.n Th. Old Rome and "^IheN^wX Pierce, Capt. Jas. H., lor!^t\T/oPS'jt'2^- ''■' chairman of Pines. Knotted, on Indian Carry. 1, 28 fed'to^r?!" "^ ^''«-'"«- Valley," re- Pioneers of Saranac Lake, Piseco, II, 133 ^*l\%2^^^^' ^^"^tions and derivations. I Pisgah, Mt., I, 251 Pttley, Mr., foreman of SheflBeld Works. 1, 141 "Plains of Abraham," I, 347 Planting, see Trees Piatt. Miss, II. 43 Piatt. Thomas, C, II, 78 155 ^^P''"°'«''' Plattsburgh named after, I, Plattsburgh, I. 155 Heasant Lake, II, 129 Plumbley(" Honest"), John. I 197 ior. k,- t sketch of. footnote. 200 ' ' ^^ ^^^' ^"^' Wumley, Jeremiah, first child in Long Lake. II, Pomeroy. M. M.. II.'l59 Pond. Chief Game Protector, is removed, II, Porter, Dr. Noah, II, 45 PnfJ%^K"°**'° (^est Mountain), II 45 Pos Offic.'^^\'°''^^^ Herreshoff'sdeath I. 109 '^7e^nce°f''lr°*'^" °^ John Bro'^ of'pr'o'vi- KaTGe^rge'D^? ""^ °^ ''''■ '' '^ first Conservation Commissioner, II. 168- his fitness for the ofBce, 242- educatiinni propaganda.242;solvesthesq4'tterpfoWem! Pratt, H. M., I, 380 Preacher's Hill (Trudeau, N. Y.) I 2flR 97n Prescott, Miss Mary R.. I, 240 ' ^ Preston Ponds Club, I 148 " PHm A''"'^?.''" ^"^y settler of Jay. I, 340 his Some Forgotten Place Names i„ the Adi- sStt'll'^Sr'' '■ ''■' --*« '^^'tcVe'll PrivateParkLaw.il, 145 i'roctor. Emily Dutton. I, 240 Proctor, Redfield, Jr., I 240 Prospect House, the (Blue Mountain) first .hoteltouseelectnclight.il, 103 ^* * P,Wn°J;C^^*T^i'"^^'" Saranac Inn, I. 318 Pulpwood Industry, the, water slides, II, 167 Purchase of Forest Lands, plea for 11 I7s ofli^Zh **°°t*>^y. early article The Wilds oj Northern New York quoted, I, 128-129 Race, a prehistoric, II. 113 Radford, Harry V. (" Adirondack Harry ") n7'-^h,-?h°fK''^"^^''^'°" Newcombroad. I. 3^-^av'^^.yo^?Kf^L«|;^JS^^^ f?!i^Tffii-K^^^^-|04^S paisn to restore „„o,e. 205; h , Moo,, bTi ship with Adirondack" Murrav 2n» W biographical sketch of Murray ^U' start's^n Rainbow Inn, I ^i ' *• ^"^^ ^«i ^Ttl^'l?44^''°°*''y' ^"PP''^ Keene Valley Raquet'te Lake „ 88!°?e t^To^^^' "• ««: «-tTe?tre?s"o;. o'f"!"^ ^"^^ ^°""^' '°'=^*i°". "■ 89: register Raqnette Pond, II, 140 Raquette River, description of, I, 42 INDEX 379 Raybrook, II, 126 Read, Minerva M., I. 215 Reception Hospital (Saranac Lake), I, 240 Redfield, W. C, I, 152; quoted as to Avalanche Lake, 163 Register, the Lake Raquette House, II, 89 Registration, guides, II, 250 Reid, Miss Ella, footnote, I, 320 Reid, Whitelaw, II, 22 Reid, Mrs. Whitelaw, I, 257 " Reign of Terror," the, II, 147 Remsen Tract, I. 81 Reports, Forest Commission (or State), for complete list, II, 299; for details refer to mention of report under correspondingannual date in Chap. XLIV Resolution, Brooks, II, 171; Merritt-O'Neil 222; Merritt, 232 Revolution, the, II, 125 Reynolds, Charley, I, 331 Reynolds, Judge John H., I, 223 Reynolds, Reuben, I, 237 Rhinelander, Fred., formerly Rylander, I, 60 Rhode Island College, became Brown Uni- versity, I, 90 Rice, Fred W., St., I, 307 Rice, Levi, II, 127 Rice's Hotel, bought by C. H. Wardner. I, 24 Rich, Mr., I, 267 Richards, George H., his Memoir of Gen'l Macomb referred to. I, 63; quoted, 66 Richards, Orson, II, 155 Ricker, Freeman A., I, 267 Riddle, D.W., I. 319 Ridenoar, John S., I, 235 Riggs, Mr. (of " Rigg's Hotel "), I. 226 River Improvement Commission, created, II, 216; receives petition to dam streams, 219; Mr. Choate's findings. 221 Rivers, Miss Frances M., became "Adiron- dack" Murray's second wife, I. 191 Riverside Inn (Saranac Lake), see Blood's Hotel Roads, Old Military, three, misconception of, II, 123; early maps show- ing, 123; course of southerly, 123; course of central, 123; act concerning central, 123; rail- road folder and central, 124; English flee along, 125:courseof Northerly, 126;old name contracted to, 128 ; Act concerning southerly, 129; names fattened by tradition, 129 Roaring Brook Tract, I, 80 Roberts, Susan E., I. 223 Roberts, W. F., I, 238 Robertson, Archibald, I. 141 Robinson, B. and H., I, 155 Roblee, Ike, I. 3.34 Roch, Valentine, I, 273 Rockefeller, William, buys land at Brandon, II, 144; builds at Bay Pond, 144; goes to court, 145; is well guarded, 146; the post office incident, 147 Rogers, Capt. Robt., destroyed Indian village, I, 27; Life of, by Caleb Stark, 27 Rogers, James, I, 340 Rogers Pulp Co., II. 157 Romeyn, Dr. J. R., the fisherman, I, 316; oldest patron at Bart- letfs, 316 Roosevelt, Theodore, his ascent of Mt. Marcy, I, 155; his ntght ride from the Tahawus Club to North Creek, 156; memoria' on road where he became President, 157: consults Comptroller Morgan, II. 201; cleans house, 208; his forest record, 207 Root, Hon. Elihu, II, 190 Root, Russell, I. 145 Rose, Heloise Durant, II, 90 Round Lake, I, 311 Round Pond (Kushaqua), I, 41 Ruisseanmont, The, erection of. 1, 378; de- stroyed by fire, 379 Russell, II, 129 Rustic Lodge, 'M^kIZV \' ^-^^' "° ''"^''^ 8^0""d there. ^4, Knotted pines near, 28 St. Anthony, I, 45 St^Aranack, probable derivation of Saranac, I, St. Armand, I, 45 St. Hubert's Inn (Beede's), l..cation of, II 48; sold to Adirondack Club, Stf'dubeTt's fsle 'ut'' *'= °"^'" °' '''""'• ^^ St.John,E.H..II.68 St. John's Clearing," II, 68 St. John's in the Wilderness, I, 328; II. 127 St. Lawrence County, History of," II, 130 bt. Lawrence Turnpike, 1, S6; II, 129 St- Luke's Church (Saranac Lake), I. 239; II. St. Regis Palls, II, 137 St. Regis Lake, I, 255 Sabattis, Captain Peter (Pierjoun), remarkable age, II. 81; traits, 81; J. T. Head- ley referred to, 81 ; a long trip by. 82; family Sabattis, (guide, Mountain, P. O.), I 43 Sabattis, Hannah, II, 82 Sabattis, Mrs. Peter, II, 82 Sabattis, Mitchell (Reverend), II, 76; famous guide, 81; remarkable ancestry, 81; born at, 82; traits, 83; his wife, 83; large family of, 83; gets $2,000 for church, 84; tribute from J. T. Headley, 84; the mortgage, 85-86; later life and death, 87; 112 Sable Iron Co., The, I, 340 Sachs, Dr. II, 45 Sackett's Harbor & Saratoga R. R. Co., buys T. & C. townships, 1 , 60 ; plans extension to Adirondack Iron Works, 147 Sacondaga River, II, 129 Sagamore, the, II, 79 Sagamore Lake (Shedd), II. 93 Sage, Dean, II. 45 Sagendorf, Walter, I, 233 Sales, law permitting land, II, 180; act permitting timber, 184 Salmon River, I, 45; II, 152 Samoa, I, 281 Sampson, Moses, I, 347 Sanborn, F. B., quoted as to John Brown, II, 4; helps Joha Brown, 9 Sandanona, I, 45 Sanders, Daniel, I, 323 Sandidge, Colonel, II, 39 Sandy Hill, II. 154 Sanford, Lake, I. 136, 141, 149 Sanford, Major Reuben, booms Wilmington, I, 343; his public career, 344 Santa Clara, the station, II, 142; the rich man of, 142 Santa Clara Lumber Co., II, 139, 155, 203 Saranac, possible origin in Gilliland's Journal. I, 18; hamlet in Clinton County, 44 Saranac Club, The, organization, I, 317; offi- cers. 317 " Saranac Exiles," by Dr. Lundy. described and discussed, I, 228; quoted. 230 Saranac Inn (Hough's), . ^.^ location, I, 317; erection, 317; early diffi- culties. 318; land purchases by, 318 Saranac Lake Free Library, I, 239 Saranac Lake Golf Club, I, 239 Saranac Lake National Bank, I, 237 Saranac Lake Village, ^ .. .r ■ origin of name discu.'^sed. I, 44-45; its geogra- phical complexity, 213; its pioneers, 21.3-226; in i8j6. 227; Dr. Trudeau's advent, 227; Dr. Lundy's book Saranac Exiles described, 228; quoted. 230; early names for. 232; first stores in, 232; first church in, 232; first board- 380 INDEX Saranac Lake Village— Co«/in« erf ing houses in, 232; the Bloods and "Blood's Hotel," 233: the •'Evans Cottage," 233; shooting of George A. Berkeley, 234; build- ings in, enumerated, 235; newspapers pub- lished in, 235 ; first senator f ron' , 235 ; reasons for growth of, 236; incorporation of. 236; national banks in, 236; first drugstore in, and developments, 237; first telephone service in, and developments, 237; first schools in, and developments, 238; first library in, and de- velopments, 239; Boys' Club, 240; General Hospital, 240; Reception Hospital, 240; Board of Trade, 240; Board of Health, 240; altitude and climate of, 240; Prof. Hunting- ton quoted as to advantages of variable climate, 241 ; no danger from contagion in, 242 Saranac Lakes (Upper and Lower), I, 44 Saranac River, 1,44 Saratoga County, in Forest Preserve, I. 4 Saratoga Springs, placed under Conservation Commission, II, 245 Saturday Club, The, story of its founding, I, 181-182 Sautbier, his map of 1777 shows Tryon and Charlotte Counties, 1,13; marks dawn of definiteness, 13 Sauthier's map, I, 14 Scanlon, Mrs. F. M., Keene Valley records, II, 32 Scaron, Lake (Schroon), on Sauthier's map, I, 13 Scarron, Madame, I, 46 Schofield, Peter F., supplies data, II, 163 School, early records of Keene Vallev, II. 33 Schools, in Saranac Lake, I, 227, 2.38 Schroon (Lake, River, Mountain), described, I, 45; derivation of, 45-46; " Madame Skaron " theory, 46 Schroon River, II, 152 Schuyler, Dr. Clarkson, C, hurries to Albany, II, 195 Scofield, Josephine, II, 25 Scott, Martha, I, 348 Scott, Mary H., married Andrew J. Baker, I. 226 Scott, Robert G., builds pioneer hotel, I, 348; his appearance, 348; adopts two little girls. 348 Scott's Hotel, first Inn near Lake Placid, I, 348 Scott's Ponds, I. 167 Scribner, Charles, I, 273 Scudder's "Life of Lowell," mentioned, I. 184 Seamon, F. A., I, 380 Seaver, Fred J., his Historical Sketches of Franklin Co. quoted about lead mine, I, 25; his sketches referred to. footnote. 74 Section 7, Article VII, abuses leading up to, II, 187; Mr. Gardner's remark, 188; special committees appointed, 188; the "forestry bigots," 189; approach of Constitutional Convention, 189; first draft of Amendment prepared, 189; nucleus of Amendment, 190; document carried to Al- bany, 190; conference in Speaker's room, 190; Mr. Choate's remark, 190; Amendment in- troduced, 190; special committee named, 191; amendment boiled down, 191; "de- stroyed" added, 192; revised amendment presented, 192; unanimously adopted. 192; Mr. Martin's lucky 7. 192; vote at the polls, 193; goes into effect, 194; attempt to antici- pate, 194; hearing before Land Board, 194; injunction served, 194; hasty meeting of Forest Commission called, 195; special train for absent member, 195; grant given to rail- road, 196; indignation and injunction, 196; first proposed amendment of, 198; defeat, 199; Commissioner's letter acts as a boomer- ang. 199 ;attack on, /po4, 217; attack on, / 900, 227; first modification of, 237; second modi- fication, of, 248; attack on, iqzo, 254; the struggle of the future, 255 Settlement on No. 4, Historical Notes, II, 260-271 Sewall, Dr. Henry, I, 257 Seward, Mt., I, 136; first ascent and measure- ment by Verplanck Colvin, II. 165 Seymour, Gov. Horatio, I, 124, 215, 223; presi- dent of first Park Commission, II. 165 Shaw, Dr., II, 58 Shaw, Phebe, I, 140 Shaw, Rev. James B., II, 45 Shaw Robert (Rev.), II. 73, 82 Shearson, Edward, I, 149 Sheffield Works (England), I, 141 Shene, Miss Kate, I, 314 Shene, Martha, I, 314 Sheppard, Jack, quoted as to Alvah Dunning, II, 117 Sherman Lumber Company, II, 155 Shore Owners Association of Lake Placid, The, Incorporators, I. 381; objects, 381 ; activities, 382-383 Short, James, I, 127; II, 161 Shurtleflf, Roswell Morse, comes to Keene V'alley, II, 38; his fondness for sketching, 38; enlists in Civil War, 3S; taken prisoner, 38; his first flag taken and re- turned, 39; the Confederate flag incident, 39; his artistic love for the mountains, 40; his Adirondack visits and friends, 40; buys and builds at Keene Valley, 42; quoted as to Keene Valley. 47 Shurtleff, Mrs. R. M. (Miss Halliday), II. 38 Signal Hill, I. 355 Sill, Louise Morgan, II. 63 Simms, Jeptha R., his Trappers of New Vork. referred to. I. 121; quoted, 122 Sing Sing Prison, I. 223 Sisson, see Litchfield " Skanadario," I. 378 Skating (in connection with R. L. S.), I, 282 Skinner, C. M., his Myths and Legends of Our Own Land quoted, five legends transcribed, I. 29-33 Slash, Railroad, II, 226 Smillie, George, II, 43 Smillie, James, II, 43 Smith, David, I, 135 Smith, Dr. Normand, II, 43, 45 Smith-Gardner Bill, II. 239 Smith, Gerrit, I. 269. 347; II, 3 Smith, Henry, I. 341 Smith, Paul (Apollos), dean of guides and hotelmen. I. ."JSO; the bell- boy story, 321 ;his land purchases, 322; birth and boyhood, 322; his second hotel,. 323; buys more and more land, 324; his fortunate mar- riage, 325; buys Franklin Falls Hotel, 325; his three sons, 325 ; death of his wife, 325 ; his devotion to her, 326 ; increasing Corporations, 326; hobby, traveling, 326; wonderful vital- ity, 327; inborn shrewdness, 327; sunny skepticism, 327; illness, death aud burial, 328 Smith, Paul (Mrs.), I, 326 Smith, Paul, Jr., I, 325 Smith, Peter, I, 347 Smith, Phelps, Jr., I, 325 Smith, Phelps, Sr., I. 322 Smith, Robert, I, 270 Smith's Lake (Lake Lila), I. 135 Smithsonian Institute, I. 209 Snyder, Chas. E., his paper on Brown's Tract referred to. I. 88; quoted. 101 Snyder, O. L., II. 159 Snyder, " Tony," guide. I. 143. 144 "Some Forgotten Place Names in the Adiron- dacks," quoted, I. 35 " Song of Tahawus, The" (Alfred L. Donald- son). I. 1.59 "Spafford's Gazetteer," quoted as to height of Whiteface. I, 154 Spartali, Michael, father-in-law of Wm. J. Stillman, I, 174 Spaulding, T. N., I. 234 Sperry, Sanford, I, 127 INDEX 381 Spinner, Francis, I, 223 Spooner place, the, II, 44 Spring Green Farm, I, 92 Spruce Hill, I, 334 Spuyten Duyvil. I, 64-65 Squatter problem, solved, II, 243 Squires, Henry C, II. 159 Squires, Perley J., I, 333 Stael, Madame de, buys Adirondack lands, I, 86 Stage-coach, the early, I. 330 SLage-drivers, list of, I, 330-331 Stage-routes, the main, I, 333 Stanley (H. M.), I, 11 Stark, Caleb, his Life of Capt. Robert Rogers referred to, I, 27 State Highway Amendment, for road from Saranac Lake— Old Forge. II, 24S State Highway from Saranac Lake to Long Lake and Old Forge, II, 77 State HosDital, Raybrook, I, 258 State Land Board, II, 194 State Land Survey, II, 174 State lands, withdrawn from sale, II, 172; first appropria- tion for purchase of, 172; act prohibiting sale of, 172; State Land Survey begun, 174; plea for purchase of, denied, 178; leasing of, first recommended, 179; sale of, permitted, 180; law repealed inli tt Rfl "Wniie Allen's egg-sheUs."n. 80 Willsboro, I, 20 Wilmington, 343; location of. 343; ^arTest s^tKf 3I3; Black Brook skirmish. wll'r^ingttn Notch, I 331.343 Wilmurt,Townot, 11. 'o __ Wilson's Lake footnote. I. 377 Wood, G. H., II. 227 Wood, Halsey, I. 379 Wood, Jetoffle'/Z's?* «;«aV,\.nr'^-^^^^^^^-"''' Woodhull Tract, 1,81 ^"ft^'P^l^loShers^Camp." I. 182; or Washburn, >^"'^'?>' ^ £.,1. 139 Washburne, Mrs. Geo. ig, Washington County, I. lb .. Water Lily,'' The, ^^t^^, i 306; tef bu^rdrn?and°c"artr 307; taken to Lake Wrtsot'j'ames Talcot, sketch of his career. I. Wats'on, Winslow C., champlain Valley re- his Pioneer «,'^ "'.^•."^HisJo^v of Essex Co., ferred to. I. l^A'Vlba 27; his History of Tsfefc^Vlnotlf'Strn.n.r.X wealth of Essex County. 136 Watson's Tract, eg. gylvester quoted. 8' description ot. 1. oo, >Ji' Wawbeek Hotel, 48- location of. 48; fight rrrn«Ttg-_of.;48-49 ZlThtTe^^rS. 140; sues State for flood- ..^Ib^^loolden Chariot Route." II. 141 hp •' Philosophers '-''" i'; ..Voo Woodruff, R- E., 1. '"■^ 04 Woods, Edward A., II. 24 MacCabe,II,241 World War, P- f^^^rveyor, I, 76 W"g|jt' ?"„"iran I nsyil. 160 Camp," I. 180 fsket'to pay .1-^ ,C,^e of'ie^death^of , 12- K^fe^^^afnS John Brown grave. 22 I'' % '--^ms ./"% ~---%^ .W'. V *'X ^^-■^. "^^.^ ^^^ \. ^y^'^"^.' '^1 »«> V X u .'^^ ^oV^ c'?:^ '3^ ^o ^^r. V .^kyZ^-,% ^ "oV' •'♦ c^ Y._ '%_ ^/- ;>|£^-. •e^^^,.* ■^..^ /°- ,0' F-' ¥M:m A ^^^ ^-^> C,"/*^ .^C'^' "^ .^'^ ^^. -^o