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GREAT CABLE INCLINE ON MOUNT LOWE RAILROAD, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 (See page 207.) 
 
NEW GUIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 PACIFIC COAST 
 
 Santa Fe Route. 
 
 CALIFORNIA, 
 
 ARIZONA, NEW MEXICO, COLORADO, KANSAS, 
 MISSOURI, IOWA, AND ILLINOIS. 
 
 / 
 
 By C. a. HIGGINS. 
 
 
 /f^ 14 1894 
 
 CHICAGO AND NEW YORK: 
 
 ^^ v.Ki;i:NV.^ 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY. 3*S'/^ 
 1894. 
 

 Copyright, 1894, by Rand, McNally & Co. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Preface, ------ 7 
 
 Illinois, -_.--. 10 
 
 Iowa, .-.-.- 14 
 
 Missouri, - - - - - - 14 
 
 Kansas, - - - - - - 18 
 
 Colorado, .._--- 38 
 
 New Mexico, ----- 64 
 
 Arizona, ------ 108 
 
 California, . . . - - 158 
 
 Vocabulary, ------ 262 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 HIS Guidebook embraces a journey from Chi- 
 cago to the Pacific Coast by way of the 
 Santa Fe Route, and covers a similar jour- 
 ney from St. Louis as well, since after the 
 first few hundred miles, namely, beyond 
 Burrton, Kan., the route is the same from 
 both cities. It aims to furnish general information regard- 
 ing the regions traversed, and specific data concerning 
 particular points of interest by the way. Doubtless more 
 has been included than would suffice to answer the general 
 inquiries of any one tourist, but he must offer much who 
 would bring something to many, and what one reader may 
 consider good matter to skip another may regard as per- 
 tinent and profitable. To facilitate both, so far as practi- 
 cable, the text has been systematically arranged under 
 definitive headings. Extended description of special 
 objects of interest has been restricted to such as can not 
 be seen, or can not be appreciated, except by stopping 
 over and making a side-excursion away from the thor- 
 oughfare. 
 
 The United States Census for 1890 is authority for the 
 population of towns and cities given herein, unless other- 
 wise stated. Since the date of that census, it is hardly 
 necessary to add, the number of inhabitants of many of 
 those communities has materially increased. 
 
 The attention of the reader is invited to the index 
 of this volume, and for the pronunciation and significa- 
 tion of unfamiliar names he is referred to the appended 
 vocabulary. 
 
 (7) 
 
CHICAGO TO KANSAS CITY. 
 
 ILLINOIS, IOWA, AND MISSOURI. 
 
 |T IS customary for through trains from 
 Chicago to the Pacific Coast to leave that 
 city at night. Description of a State 
 which the traveler is assumed to be in 
 the act of quitting, or of its immediate 
 neighbor on the west, which will have 
 been crossed and left far behind before the dawn of 
 another day, should be confined to narrow limits, and in 
 the nature of the case a brief and somewhat general 
 mention will suffice for the features of the entire region 
 east of Kansas ; for while Illinois, Iowa, and Missouri are 
 indeed western, the West lies farther on, and the active 
 curiosity of the tourist is usually concentrated upon that 
 section of the country which is beyond the Missouri 
 River. Although there still is room and to spare in these 
 three States, they no longer wear a marked romantic 
 aspect to the traveler. The Indian has long since aban- 
 doned their plains and river-valleys, the large game has 
 fled, and the era of the pioneer has given place to that of 
 general agriculture, manufacture, and trade. Have many 
 years gone by since a song was current glorifying a 
 dimly apprehended region somewhere far toward the 
 sunset, "Where the mighty Missouri rolls down to the 
 sea" ? Did we not sing that as school-children, we whose 
 heads are not yet quite gray, not yet conspicuously 
 unthatched ; picturing an adventurous land at the end of 
 
 (9) 
 
10 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
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 the westernmost ray of the Star 
 of Empire, beyond which lay the 
 mystery of a vast untrodden wild ? 
 The Missouri ! If we see it at all 
 we must be up betimes to-morrow, 
 for its channel lies almost at the 
 threshold of our journey ; it is 
 in the very heart of the United 
 States. And across and beyond 
 it our way lies on and on, over 
 still wider prairies, over mountain 
 passes, over deserts in the sky, 
 and down again to where the blue 
 waves of the Pacific beat upon 
 sunny sands, where the violet and 
 poppy smother the hillsides, and 
 the olive and fig and orange grow. 
 In the prospect of such an array 
 of varied and interesting scenes 
 as marks a journey to the Pacific 
 Coast, therefore, only an eniimera- 
 tion of a few landmarks and mile- 
 posts will be attempted until, the 
 first night having passed, there is 
 something to see and inquire 
 about. 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Chicago. — Los Angeles, 2,265 miles; 
 San Diego, 2,348 miles; San Francisco 
 (via Albuquerque), 2,577 miles. Alti- 
 tude, 579 feet above sea level. Popula- 
 tion (in the year 1891), 1,438,010. Termi- 
 nus of the following railroads: Atchison, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 11 
 
 Topeka & SantaF e; Baltimore & Ohio; Chicago & Erie; Chicago & 
 Alton; Chicago & Eastern Illinois; Chicago & Grand Trunk ; Chicago 
 & Northern Pacific; Chicago & North-Western; Chicago, Burlington 
 & Quincy; Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago & St. Louis; Chicago, 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul; Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific; Chicago & 
 West Michigan ; Chicago Great Western ; Illinois Central; Lake Shore 
 & Michigan Southern; Louisville, New Albany & Chicago; Michigan 
 Central; Milwaukee, Lake Shore & Western; New York, Lake Erie 
 & Western; Northern Pacific; Pennsylvania lines (Pan-handle, and 
 Pittsburg, Fort Wayne & Chicago); Wabash, and the Wisconsin Cen- 
 tral Line. 
 
 The terminal passenger station of the Santa Fe Route 
 in Chicago is situated at the intersection of Dearborn and 
 Polk streets, and is familiarly known both as Dearborn 
 Station and as Polk Street Station. Here also the trains 
 of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway; the Chicago & 
 Erie Railroad; the Chicago & Eastern Illinois Railroad; 
 the Chicago & Western Indiana Railroad; the Louisville, 
 New Albany & Chicago Railway (Monon Route); and the 
 Wabash Railroad, arrive and depart. 
 
 The many other depots that furnish terminal facilities 
 are spacious and substantial. The 1,400 hotels in the city 
 easily accommodate 200,000 people, their charges varied 
 to suit every class of traveler. 
 
 The first building on the present site of Chicago was 
 erected in the year 1779 by a negro named Jean Baptiste 
 Point de Saible. The first white inhabitant was John 
 Kinzie, an Indian trader, who became possessor of this 
 man's hut in 1804. In the year 1825 Chicago was a ham- 
 let, consisting of fourteen cabins. It \vas incorporated as 
 a town in 1833, with a population of 150. The first paper 
 was issued November 26, 1833. In 1837 the population 
 had increased to 4,170. The year previous the first rail- 
 road — the Galena & Chicago Union — entered the town. 
 From that time the city rapidly grew until the fire of 
 
12 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 187 1 swept away the greater part, and destroyed property 
 valued at $196,000,000. It soon started afresh on its 
 course of progress, which has gone on uninterruptedly 
 until the present day, except for the check caused by the 
 second fire in 1874. Perhaps the feature that most strikes 
 the visitor is the great number of immense and lofty busi- 
 ness blocks. One of them, the Masonic Temple, twenty- 
 one stories high, is one of the largest office buildings in 
 the world. It stands at the corner of State and Randolph 
 streets. The city covers an area of 184 square miles, 
 1,793 acres of which are public park. The assessment 
 for tax purposes is $250,000,000, which is about one-fifth 
 of the real value. It will surprise many to know that 
 Chicago is the greatest port in America. In the year 
 1 89 1 vessels to the number of 9,803 entered the harbor, 
 making it the third port, if not the second, in the world — 
 Liverpool, and possibly London, taking precedence of it. 
 
 After quitting the environs of the World's Fair city 
 several small towns are passed before any point of par- 
 ticular prominence is reached. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : McCook, Gary, Willow 
 Springs, Byrneville, Tedens, Lemont, Romeo, Lockport. 
 
 Joliet. — Chicago, 41 miles; Los Angeles, 2,224 miles; San 
 Diego, 2,307 miles; San Francisco, 2,536 miles. Altitude, 553 feet. 
 Population, 23,264. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific 
 Railway, Chicago & Alton Railroad, and Elgin, Joliet & Eastern 
 Railway (Belt Line). 
 
 A very important manufacturing city on the Desplaines 
 River. The State penitentiary stands on the left of the 
 railroad track, and on the right are the rolling mills of 
 the Illinois Steel Company and the wire works of the 
 Consolidated Steel & Wire Company. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Patterson, Millsdale, Drum- 
 mond, Blodgett, Knappa (at the crossing of the Kanka- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 13 
 
 kee River), Lorenzo, Coal City, Mazon, Verona, Kinsman, 
 Ransom, Kernan. 
 
 Streator. — Chicago, 94 miles; Los Angeles, 2,171 miles; San 
 Diego, 2,254 miles; San Francisco, 2,483 miles. Altitude, 640 feet. 
 Population, 14,414. Junction with the Wabash Railroad, Chicago & 
 Alton Railroad, and Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. 
 
 A manufacturing and coal-mining city situated on the 
 Vermilion River. 
 
 Intermediate Station : Reading. 
 
 Ancona. — Chicago, 100 miles; Los Angeles, 2,165 miles; San 
 Diego, 2,248 miles; San Francisco, 2,477 miles. Altitude, 645 feet. 
 
 Diverging point of the line of the Santa F^ Route to 
 Pekin, 111., and to Peoria by a connection with the Toledo, 
 Peoria & Western Railway at Eureka. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Leeds, Caton, Toluca, La 
 Rose, Wilburn. 
 
 Cliillicotlie. — Chicago, 134 miles; Los Angeles, 2,131 miles; 
 San Diego, 2,214 miles; San Francisco, 2,443 miles. Altitude, 530 
 feet. Population, 1,632. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & 
 Pacific Railway. 
 
 Located on the Illinois River. A heavy grain-shipping 
 point, and headquarters of the Chicago-Kansas City Di- 
 vision of the Santa Fe Route. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Edelstein, Princeville, Mon- 
 ica, Laura, Williamsfield, Dahinda, Appleton, Knox. 
 
 Oalesburg". — Chicago, 182 miles; Los Angeles, 2,083 miles; 
 San Diego, 2,166 miles; San Francisco, 2,395 miles. Altitude, 771 
 feet. Population, 15,264. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Railroad, and the Fulton County Narrow Gauge Railway. 
 
 A manufacturing city. Also a center of importation of 
 European draft horses. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Surrey, Cameron, Nemo, 
 
14 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Ormonde, Ponemah, Smithshire, Media, Stronghurst, De- 
 corra, Lomax, Dallas, Pontoosuc. 
 
 Niota. — Chicago, 235 miles. Altitude, 539 feet. 
 
 On the banks of the Mississippi River. 
 
 Mississippi River Bridge. — Chicago, 236 miles. 3,240 feet 
 long, and 32 feet above low-water mark. 
 
 IOWA. 
 
 Ft. Madison. — Chicago, 237 miles; Los Angeles, 2,028 miles; 
 San Diego, 2,111 miles; San Francisco, 2,340 miles. Altitude, 537 
 feet. Population, 7,901. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
 Quincy Railroad and Chicago, Ft. Madison & Des Moines Railway. 
 
 An important Mississippi River port. 
 
 From Ft. Madison the route crosses the southeastern 
 corner of the State of Iowa from the Mississippi River to 
 the Des Moines River, a distance of twenty miles. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Ft. Madison Shops, Macuta, 
 New Boston, Argyle. 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Dumas, Revere. 
 
 Medill.— Chicago, 268 miles. Altitude, 719 feet. Junction with 
 the Keokuk & Western Railroad, one mile east of Medill Station. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Cama, Wyaconda, Gorin, 
 Rutledge, Baring, Kenwood. 
 
 Hurdland. — Chicago, 315 miles. Altitude, 842 feet. Popula- 
 tion, 248. Junction with the Quincy, Omaha & Kansas City Railway. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Gibbs. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. l5 
 
 La Plata. — Chicago, 317 miles. Altitude, 929 feet. Popula- 
 tion, 1,169. Junction with the Wabash Railroad. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Oliver, Elmer, Ethel, Hart. 
 
 Bucklin. — Chicago, 346 miles. Altitude, 932 feet. Population, 
 711. Junction with Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad. 
 
 Marceliue. — Chicago, 352 miles; Los Angeles, 1,913 miles; 
 San Diego, 1,996 miles; San Francisco, 2,225 miles. Altitude, 873 
 feet. Population, 1,977. Junction with Chicago, Burlington & 
 Kansas City Railway. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Rothville, Mendon, Dean 
 Lake, Bosworth, Newcomb, Carrollton, Palemon, Nor- 
 borne, Nimrod, Hardin. 
 
 Lexington Junction. — Chicago, 416 miles; Los Angeles, 
 1,849 miles; San Diego, 1,932 miles; San Francisco, 2,161 miles. 
 Altitude, 709 feet. Junction with Wabash Railroad. Diverging 
 point of the line of the Santa Fe Route to St. Joseph, Mo., and 
 Atchison, Kan. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Camden, Floyd. 
 
 Missouri River Bridge.— Chicago, 429 miles. 7,552 feet 
 long, including approaches, and 92 feet above low-water mark. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Sibley, Atherton, Courtney, 
 Wayne, vSheffield, Fifteenth Street (Kansas City), Grand 
 Avenue (Kansas City). 
 
 Kansas City (Union Depot). — Chicago, 458 miles; Los Angeles, 
 1,807 miles; San Diego, 1,890 miles; San Francisco, 2,119 miles. 
 Altitude, 765 feet. Population, 171,032. Junction with Chicago, 
 Rock Island & Pacific Railway; Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad; 
 Burlington & Missouri River Railroad; Kansas City, St. Joseph & 
 Council Bluffs Railroad; Wabash, St. Louis & Pacific Railway; 
 Chicago & Alton Railroad; Missouri Pacific Railway; Kansas City, 
 Fort Scott & Memphis Railroad; Union Pacific Railway; Chicago, 
 Milwaukee & St. Paul Railway; Chicago Great Western Railway; 
 Kansas City, Wyandotte & North- Western Railroad; Kansas City, 
 Pittsburg & Gulf Railroad; Kansas City, Osceola & Southern Rail- 
 way. 
 
16 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 17 
 
 The city is located on the south bank of the Missouri 
 River. It is a city of hills and bluffs, not particularly 
 intelligible nor attractive in the few inadequate glimpses 
 possible from the train; but that is commonly true of 
 cities. The residence portion, as well as most of the busi- 
 ness district except that which naturally clusters closely 
 around railroad terminals, lies above and on the right. 
 The steeply inclined bridge over the track, just beyond 
 the Union Depot, over which cable cars are passing, leads 
 to the main part of the city. 
 
 It was at first a landing-place for river steamboats, and 
 was known as Westport Landing. The first stock of 
 goods was thus landed in 1834. In the course of the next 
 half a dozen years a few frame houses were erected, but 
 so late as 1853 the inhabitants numbered only 478. The 
 arbitrary laws of commerce, however, had decreed that at 
 this point a great city should arise, and in 1870 the popu- 
 lation had increased to 32,286. In 1885, 128,474 people 
 dwelt here, and the commercial activity of the city had 
 become something extraordinary. It offers to the traveler 
 from older communities a striking example of the rapidity 
 of Western progress. It is second only to Chicago in 
 pork-packing and beef-canning and in the number of 
 live-stock handled in its stock-yards. Ore-smelting and 
 numerous manufactures are also carried on upon a large 
 scale. It is a transcontinental gateway, and the natural 
 trade center for much of Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, 
 Texas, and Colorado, and for Oklahoma, New Mexico, and 
 Arizona; the distribution of its wares and the absorption 
 of much of the products of the regions named being 
 rendered easy by water-carriage and by the many rail- 
 roads that center here. 
 
 It is really composed of two cities — Kansas City, Mo., 
 
 and Kansas City, Kan., the pox^ulation of each being, 
 
 respectively, 132,716 and 38,316. 
 2 
 
18 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 KANSAS. 
 
 Historical. — The name is Indian, and was borne 
 by the particular people whom the first settlers of Kansas 
 found in possession of the country. The French fur trad- 
 ers — voyageurs — had stations here nearly a century and a 
 half before it was actually settled, and to their pronunci- 
 ation of the word Kansas has been ascribed the origin of 
 the word Kaw, long applied both to that particular tribe 
 of Indians and to the river upon whose banks they dwelt. 
 Coronado indelibly stamped his name as discoverer upon 
 a very large part of the West. His extraordinary expedi- 
 tion from Mexico in 1540 extended as far as the northern 
 boundary of this State, which he appears to have trav- 
 ersed in a northeasterly direction. His advent into this 
 particular region was barren of result. He came, saw, 
 and went away. In 17 19 a second Spanish invasion came 
 from New Mexico to occupy the country in advance of the 
 French, who were actively exploring the Missouri River, 
 but the Spaniards, with the exception of a priest, were 
 massacred by the Indians. A large tract of central North 
 America thereupon fell to France. It stretched from the 
 Gulf of Mexico north to British America, and from the 
 Mississippi River west to a line which serves now for the 
 eastern boundary of Texas, thence along the north bank 
 of the Arkansas River to central Colorado, and from there 
 irregularly northwest to a point near the upper western 
 corner of Montan?. This was the province of Louisiana, 
 whose entire purchase by the United States was com- 
 pleted by the treaty of April 30, 181 9. The little south- 
 western corner of Kansas below the Arkansas River was 
 subsequently acquired from Mexico, in the final solution 
 of the Texas struggle. In 1823 a trading route was estab. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 19 
 
 lished between Booneville (now Franklin), on the Missouri 
 River, and Santa Fe, in New Mexico. Nine years after- 
 ward Independence, near Kansas City, became the point 
 of outfitting and departure for western freighters. The 
 story of the Santa Fe Trail is one of the most romantic 
 and tragic chapters in the history of the West. The In- 
 dians promised it freedom from molestation, in a council 
 meeting with United States Commissioners, but the old 
 trail marks a line of blood across many hundred miles of 
 plain. Ambuscade and butchery, with all the fearful 
 details of savage warfare, were a daily occurrence. Fort 
 Leavenworth was established to protect the traders, and 
 escorts of mounted soldiers accompanied the wagon 
 trains. This trade with Santa F6 and the Southwest 
 became in time so great as to employ thousands of men 
 and wagons. The trail led along the Arkansas River, over 
 the Raton Pass from Colorado to New Mexico, thence 
 through Wagon Mound and Las Vegas to the New Mexi- 
 can capital. The course of the Santa Fe Route is almost 
 identical with the old trail throughout. The military post 
 at Fort Leavenworth was established in 1827, and there, in 
 1850, the first real settlement of Kansas began. In ten 
 years Kansas numbered a hundred thousand inhabitants, 
 and in 1861 was admitted to the Union. 
 
 The greater part of Kansas was originally included in 
 the extensive Territory of Missouri, that portion of the 
 Louisiana province purchased from the French in 1803. 
 A portion of that Territory became the State of Missouri 
 in 182 1, after long opposition on the part of the anti- 
 slavery States, by virtue of the Missouri Compromise, a 
 compact which resulted in the passage of an act forever 
 forbidding slavery in all that part of the Louisiana pur- 
 chase north of 36^ 30', except within the comparatively 
 small bounds of the newly admitted State of Missouri. In 
 
20 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 1854 that act was repealed, and each new commonwealth 
 arising- in the formerly exempted Territory was left free to 
 settle the question for itself. In Kansas the struggle of the 
 two great sectional ideas for supremacy was a bitter con- 
 tention, and here the armies of North and South first 
 encountered. John Brown first became famous in connec- 
 tion with this Kansas war, and the State won the sobriquet 
 of "Bleeding Kansas." Property was destroyed and 
 many lives were lost, until in 1859 the question at stake 
 was settled by the adoption of a constitution forbidding 
 slavery. In the immediately ensuing War of the Rebell- 
 ion the State suffered further, and not until the close of 
 ten years' strife did these men who had so actively con- 
 tended for opposing principles find uninterrupted oppor- 
 tunity to develop the resources of the State. The building 
 of railroads was wisely encouraged by immense grants of 
 land in alternate parcels contiguous to several proposed 
 lines, conditioned upon actual construction within a speci- 
 fied period. Eastern capital promptly seized the proffered 
 opportunity, the sale and settlement of the acquired lands 
 was undertaken by the recipient corporations through 
 numerous agencies both at home and abroad, and in con- 
 sequence immigrants poured into the State by thousands, 
 from the Middle and Eastern States and from foreign 
 countries. In 1870 the population had increased to 364,- 
 369. In 1880 it was 996,096. The United States census 
 of 1890 gives 1,427,096. 
 
 Kansas boasts a smaller percentage of illiteracy and 
 crime than any other community of which such statistics 
 are kept. There are 3,800 churches and 9,000 schools 
 within its borders. 
 
 Descriptive. — Kansas comprises an area of 82,080 
 square miles in the center of the Union. In length it is 
 408 miles, and in breadth 208 miles, having the form of a 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 21 
 
 parallelogram, symmetrical in outline, save where the 
 Missouri River cuts a slice from the northeastern corner. 
 
 THE KAW VALLEY PEOPLE OF 1 85 5. 
 
 It is an inclined plane, with undulating surface, rising 
 easily from an altitude of about 750 feet upon the east to 
 
22 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 nearly 3,500 feet at the western bound. Although a 
 prairie country, it is neither fiat nor monotonous, but rolls 
 in gentle billows, forming a pleasing pastoral landscape 
 that becomes exceedingl}^ beautiful in early summer. It 
 has the breadth of ocean to the eye, nevertheless, and a 
 charm that outlasts the novelty of first acquaintance. It 
 can not boast a mountain, nor much timber, save that 
 which has been planted since its settlement. It is car- 
 peted with nutritious grasses, and the intervals are green 
 with orchards, gardens, and growing grain. 
 
 Progressing westward the amount of rainfall and the 
 number of small streams decrease, until in the extreme 
 western counties a condition of aridity is reached that, 
 over large areas, thus far has proved hostile to agricult- 
 ure, except in the moister valleys, or where the waters of 
 the Arkansas can be diverted by means of irrigating 
 ditches, although in many localities artesian wells provide 
 a good supply of water. Many prairie-dog towns will be 
 seen by the traveler in that region. 
 
 The rock formations that underlie Kansas have yielded 
 great numbers of fossils of the most uncouth and gigantic 
 prehistoric animals, inany speciinens of which are exhibited 
 in the National Museum at Washington. When Kansas 
 was the shore of a vast sea it was inhabited by monsters 
 whose existence would be scouted did not the imperishable 
 rock preserve their skeletons. 
 
 It is a land of pretty towns, developing with astonishing 
 rapidity year by year. In each of them the church and 
 school-house are prominent objects, and the public saloon 
 is conspicuous by utter absence. These energetic old fel- 
 lows, who settled the question of slavery for themselves 
 before the Civil War began, established prohibition in 
 Kansas long before they took up the Farmers' Alliance or 
 formed the Populist party. They have a remarkable fac- 
 ulty of putting theories into practice. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 23 
 
 Climate. — The average annual rainfall varies greatly, 
 according to locality. The record at Fort Leavenworth 
 for fifty-seven years gives a yearly average of thirty-three 
 inches; twenty-three years at Lawrence averaged thirty- 
 four inches; twelve years at Topeka, thirty-two inches; 
 thirty-five years at Manhattan and Fort Riley, thirty 
 inches; fourteen years at Dodge City, twenty-one inches; 
 five years at Fort Wallace, thirteen inches. The rain 
 comes principally in the early summer months, and in 
 some years, following a period of extreme dryness in July 
 or August, excessive heat is experienced, accompanied by 
 hot winds, sometimes of a high velocity. These hot winds 
 were formerly believed to originate on the " staked 
 plains " of Texas and New Mexico, as they most com- 
 monly came from the southwest, but are now known to 
 be caused, as in Nebraska and the Dakotas, by the pas- 
 sage of ordinary winds over the heated surface of the dry, 
 unbroken plains of the State. The increasing area of cul- 
 tivation has already very greatly reduced the frequency 
 and severity of the hot winds, which acquired an unpleas- 
 ant notoriety in the days of the buffalo and the caravan. 
 
 The mean annual temperature varies from 52° to ^-j", 
 according to locality, that of the extreme western portion 
 being a few degrees lower than that of the eastern, by 
 reason of a higher altitude. The climate of Kansas is 
 heathful, and commonly very agreeable. Even when in 
 midsummer the sun becomes torrid and the air oppressive 
 through the day, with nightfall a delicious breeze blows 
 over the prairie, and after the hottest day the Kansan 
 sleeps in comfort. The winters are commonly mild. For 
 persons who have weak lungs it is a desirable dwell- 
 ing place, and several points in the western part, where 
 the altitude is less pronounced than in Colorado or 
 northern New Mexico, are utilized by sensitive patients 
 
24 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 
 
 journeying to those regions for recuperation as temporary 
 stopping places where to accomplish a gradual adjustment 
 to greater elevations and more rarefied air. 
 
 Industrial. — Kansas is most familiarly known to the 
 world as an agricultural and grazing State. In the ten 
 years from 1882 to 1891, inclusive, it produced the astonish- 
 ing total of 1,561,972,631 bushels of corn and 284,085,374 
 bushels of wheat. The average yield per acre for the 
 entire period of ten years was 27.88 bushels of corn and 
 15.14 bushels of wheat, the highest average for any single 
 year being 40.1 for the former and 22.6 for the latter. In 
 1892 the yield of corn was 138,658,62 1 bushels, and of wheat 
 74,538,906 bushels. The State includes many other impor- 
 tant agricultural products, a few items in addition to the 
 two great cereals being as follows: Oats, 43,722,484 bushels; 
 barley, 3,842,954 bushels; rye, 4,042,613 bushels; buck- 
 wheat, 62,808 bushels; flax, 1,245,555 bushels; hemp, 32,900 
 pounds; cotton, 145,300 pounds; potatoes, 4,557,504 bushels; 
 tobacco, 222,600 pounds; castor beans, 81,987 bushels; 
 broomcorn, 34,016,950 pounds; and 800,000 pounds of 
 sugar was manufactured from sorghum. Vast quanti- 
 ties of apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums are annu- 
 ally raised, and there are numerous vineyards. Of live- 
 stock there are in round numbers 805,000 horses, 79,000 
 mules and asses, 631,000 milch cows, 240,000 sheep, 1,605,- 
 000 swine, and 1,708,000 other cattle. 
 
 A large aggregate capital is invested in manufactures, 
 chiefly flour, meats, lard, sugar, and salt. 
 
 Mines of coal and lead and stone-quarries are worked 
 extensively. 
 
 principal points of interest. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Argentine, Turner, Morris, 
 Holliday, Choteau, Wilder, Cedar Junction, De Soto^ 
 Weaver, Eudora 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 25 
 
 Lawrence.— Chicago, 499 miles; Los Angeles, 1,766 miles; San 
 Diego, 1,849 miles; San Francisco, 2,078 miles. Junction with Union 
 
 Pacific Railway, and Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe lines from southern 
 points in Eastern Kansas. Altitude, 837 feet. Population, 9,997- 
 
 A city of New England appearance and character, sit- 
 uated on the Kansas River. Site of the Haskell Indian 
 
26 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 School, which is comprised in fifteen buildings, and of the 
 State University, whose seven structures crown Mount 
 Oread, west of the city, and are visible at a distance of 
 many miles. The dam across the river furnishes excellent 
 water power for a number of manufactories — of flour, 
 paper, wire, and nails, whose yearly product reaches an 
 aggregate value of nearly a million and a half dollars. 
 Lawrence was settled in 1854, and was the center and cap- 
 ital of the Free State side of the Kansas struggle, and the 
 headquarters of John Brown during that trying period. It 
 was burned on August 21, 1863, by the rebel guerrilla, 
 Quantrell, who, with three or four hundred followers, sur- 
 prised the town at daybreak. In the space of four hours, 
 upon that occasion, 143 men were shot dead in the streets 
 and some thirty desperately wounded, and the value of 
 the property pillaged or sacrificed to the torch was in the 
 neighborhood of $2,000,000. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Lake View. 
 
 Liecoiiipton. — Chicago, 509 miles; Los Angeles, 1,756 miles; 
 San Diego, 1,839 miles; San Francisco, 2,068 miles. Altitude, 861 
 feet. Population, 450. 
 
 Named after Lecompte, a leader of the Pro-Slavery 
 party. This was the ancient capital under that organiza- 
 tion. The " Lecompton Constitution," intended for a Pro- 
 Slavery Kansas, was signed here. The foundations of the 
 present Lane University were originally laid for the pro- 
 jected capitol of a slave State. Many men of the opposi- 
 tion party were forcibly incarcerated for their principles 
 in the Lecompton jail, whose ruins are still visible. The 
 old legislative hall also still exists. The interest of 
 Lecompton is reminiscent, and attaches to the early his- 
 tory of Kansas, when strife was violent between the two 
 political parties. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 27 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Glendale, Grover, Spencer, 
 Tecumseh. 
 
 Topeka. — Chicago, 525 miles; Los Angeles, 1,740 miles; San 
 Diego, 1,823 miles; San Francisco, 2,052 miles. Dining station. Junc- 
 tion with Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway; Union Pacific 
 Railway; Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railway; and Atchison, Topeka 
 & Santa Fe lines to Leavenworth and Atchison, Kan., and St. Joseph, 
 Mo. Altitude, 901 feet. Population, 31,007. 
 
 KANSAS state CAPITOL. 
 
 Very little that is characteristic of the capital of Kan- 
 sas can be seen from the railroad station. It is a most 
 attractive city, with broad business streets and sightly 
 residence districts profusely shaded with ornamental trees. 
 Situated on the Kansas River, its chief industries are flour- 
 milling, manufacturing, and labor in connection with rail- 
 road service. The general offices and shops of the Atchi- 
 
28 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 son, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad are located here, over 
 2,700 men being" employed in the city by that company, 
 and upward of $150,000 being disbursed monthly in wages. 
 There are six flour mills, with an aggregate output of 
 2,850 barrels per day, and seven grain elevators, with a 
 total capacity of 835,000 bushels, besides stock-yards and 
 packing houses. 
 
 The capitol is imposing, and in it is stored the magnifi- 
 cent ornithological collection of the late Prof. N. S. Goss. 
 Topeka contains the State, city, Washburn, and Bethany 
 libraries, aggregating 100,000 volumes, the State Insane 
 Asylum and State Reform School, Washburn and Bethany 
 colleges, and twenty-three public schools. It possesses 
 the largest system of electric street-car lines in the 
 country. 
 
 West of Topeka are extensively-worked coal mines, 
 notably those of Osage City, twenty-nine miles distant. 
 Some 750 miners are there employed, and the yearly out- 
 put is 145,000 tons. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Pauline, Wakarusa, Carbon- 
 dale, Scranton, Burlingame, Peterton, Osage City, Barclay, 
 Reading, Lang, Emporia Junction. 
 
 Emporia.^ Chicago, 586 miles; Los Angeles, 1,679 miles; San 
 Diego, 1,762 miles; San Francisco, 1,991 miles. Junction with Atchi- 
 son, Topeka & Santa Fe branch line to Southern Kansas points. 
 Emporia Junction, one mile east, is point of crossing of Missouri, 
 Kansas & Texas Railway, and junction for through fast freight line of 
 the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad from Kansas City, by way 
 of Olathe, Ottawa, and Quenemo. Altitude, 1,149 f^^t. Population, 
 7,551- 
 
 Placed at the joining of Cottonwood and Neosho val- 
 leys, Emporia is the center of an exceedingly rich agri- 
 cultural region. The State Normal School is visible upon 
 the main street from the train in passing. It has about 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 29 
 
 i,2oo students. There is also a Presbyterian college. 
 Twenty miles beyond, at Strong City, is the point of 
 departure of Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe trains north- 
 westward to Abilene, vSalina, Minneapolis, and Concordia, 
 Kan., and Superior, Neb. Emporia enjoys the reputation 
 of being the wealthiest city in Kansas per capita. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: vSterry, Plymouth, Bennett, 
 Saffordville, Ellinor, Strong City, Evans, Elmdale, Clem- 
 ents, Cedar Grove. 
 
 Florence. — Chicago, 631 miles; Los Angeles, 1,634 miles; San 
 Diego, 1,717 miles; San Francisco, 1,946 miles. Dining station. 
 Junction with proprietary lines southward through El Dorado, 
 Augusta, and Winfield, and westward through Marion, McPherson, 
 and Lyons to Ellinwood. Altitude, 1,277 feet. Population, 1,229. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Horners, Peabody, Braddock, 
 Doyle, Walton. 
 
 Newton. — Chicago, 659 miles; Los Angeles, 1,606 miles; San 
 Diego, 1,689 miles; San Francisco, 1,918 miles. Dining station. 
 Junction with St. Louis, Ft. Scott & Wichita Railroad, and diverging 
 point of vSanta Fe line through Wichita, Arkansas City, and Oklahoma 
 to Galveston and other Texas cities. Altitude, 1,455 feet. Popula- 
 tion, 5,605. 
 
 By way of contrast this is remembered as perhaps the 
 most abandoned community to be found in the vStates 
 twenty years ago, when it was a border town, the western 
 terminus of the railroad, and the extreme verge of Kansas 
 settlement. Poker and monte, carousal, and the practice 
 of every conceivable form of vice and violence were the 
 principal industries. The hanging of eleven men occurred 
 in a single night. It was then a slab-and-canvas settle- 
 ment. It is now an orderly, pretty city of churches, 
 schools, and happy homes, surrounded by productive 
 farms. 
 
 It is a division point of the railroad. 
 
30 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Mission, Halstead, Paxton. 
 
 Burrton. — Chicago, 678 miles; St. Louis, 538 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,587 miles; San Diego, 1,670 miles; San Francisco, 1,899 
 miles. Junction with St. Louis & San Francisco Railway (Santa Fe 
 Route). Altitude, 1,465 feet. 
 
 Connecting point of trains to and from St. Louis, direct 
 through southwestern Missouri and southeastern Kansas, 
 and junction with the St. Louis & San Francisco line to 
 Ellsworth. 
 
 This is largely a Mennonite farming community, about 
 800 of that sect being settled in the neighborhood. The 
 Mennonites are a denomination combining some of the 
 characteristic principles of the Baptists and the Quakers. 
 The main distinctive doctrines consist of non-resistance, 
 abstinence from oaths, and the baptism only of adults 
 upon profession of faith. Menno Simons, a Hollander 
 who lived from 1496 to 1561, was the organizer, although 
 not the founder, of the sect. It increased rapidly in Hol- 
 land, Switzerland, and Germany, and was the object of 
 bitter persecutions. Many members removed to Russia, 
 where they were promised exemption from military serv- 
 ice. Not a few also emigrated to America, some being 
 among the original Dutch settlers of New York. But the 
 first- Mennonite settlement in this country was at Ger- 
 mantown, Penn., in 1683. Afterward branch colonies 
 were established in Tiffin, Ohio, Somerville, 111., and 
 Mountain Lake, Minn., and when the prairies of the West 
 were still further opened up by the extension of railroads, 
 they scattered even more widely, preserving their distinct- 
 ive communities. In 187 1 the exemption under which 
 they had existed in Russia was revoked, and they were 
 given until 1880 to leave the country or abandon their 
 peculiar tenets as to bearing arms. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 31 
 
 Most of the Mennonites in Kansas came directly from 
 Russia, in consequence of that decree, as purchasers and 
 settlers of lands placed on the market by the Atchison, 
 Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad Company. About 10,000 
 located on and near this line, between Peabody and Pawnee 
 Rock, from Marion to Barton County. They are a thrifty 
 and worthy people, self-maintaining in all vicissitudes. 
 In the general catastrophe of the grasshopper plague of 
 Kansas, in 1873-74, the Mennonite colonies in other parts 
 of the country contributed money by thousands of dollars 
 to their impoverished brethren, which sufficed for their 
 needs, and has since been paid back, dollar for dollar, with 
 interest added. All are prosperous, and not a few have 
 become wealthy. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Kent. 
 
 Hutchinson.— Chicago, 693 miles; St. Louis, 553 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,572 miles; San Diego, 1,655 miles; San Francisco, 1,884 
 miles. Dining station. Junction with Chicago, Rock Island & 
 Pacific Railway; Missouri Pacific Railway; Hutchinson & Southern 
 Railroad; and Santa Fe line through Ellinwood, Great Bend, and 
 Larned to Kinsley. Altitude, 1,541 feet. Population, 8,682. 
 
 One of the prettiest and most vigorous towns in the 
 State; settled in 1872. Stock-yards, packing houses, flour 
 mills, grain elevators, sugar, lard, and salt works, furniture 
 and ice manufactories, numerous wholesale luercantile 
 houses, and half a dozen banking houses are examples of 
 its commercial activity. It has a State Reformatory, a 
 business college, and a conservatory of music. 
 
 The enormous deposits of rock salt that underlie vast 
 regions in Kansas at a depth of several hundred feet are 
 here laid under tribute by forcing water into the subter- 
 ranean beds, afterward pumping the resultant brine to 
 the surface and evaporating it, first in open-air tanks and 
 then by boiling to the point of crystallization. The 
 
32 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 
 
 method of obtaining the brine is simple, though ingenious. 
 A hole is drilled, as for an artesian well, until the deposit 
 is struck. A small pipe is then inserted to the bottom, 
 and over that a larger and shorter one. The water is 
 forced downward through the space between the two, and 
 the brine solution, whose specific gravity is much greater 
 than that of pure water, seeks the lowest level in the 
 flooded cavity. The upward pumping is then done 
 
 STREET SCENE, HUTCHINSON, KAN. 
 
 through the smaller and longer tube, which reaches to 
 the briniest depth. Six hundred men are employed in 
 these salt works alone, and the full capacity is stated to 
 be 5,000 barrels of pure white table salt per day. 
 
 It is after a stretch of level prairie, over the latter por- 
 tion of which the railroad runs in an absolutely straight 
 line for thirty miles, that you come to Hutchinson, The 
 Arkansas River is encountered and crossed at this point. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 33 
 
 Henceforward the course of that river is closely followed, 
 except for two cut-offs (from the present crossing through 
 Kinsley to Dodge City), for nearly 350 miles, namely, to 
 La Junta, in Colorado, and many of the trains do not 
 make these cut-offs. Silent, sandy, and unattractive, the 
 Arkansas is really a great and beneficent river. It rises 
 in Tennessee Pass, above Leadville, in Colorado, issues 
 between the Park and Saguache ranges into the idyllic 
 valley of Buena Vista, plunges through many miles of 
 profound gorges, and reappears to wander over 500 miles 
 of plain before reaching Hutchinson, receiving the tribute 
 of upward of fifty considerable streams on its way. It 
 continues on through Kansas, Oklahoma, Indian Territory, 
 and Arkansas to find its outlet in the Mississippi, its 
 extraordinarily fertile valley sustaining an agricultural 
 population that numbers hundreds of thousands. 
 
 Formerly these plains, for a width of two or three hun- 
 dred miles, were crossed from south to north by innumer- 
 able paths cut deep into the sod. They marked the annual 
 migration of countless millions of bison from Texas to 
 Manitoba and back, feeding in the wake of the seasons. 
 The plow has obliterated most of these trails upon the 
 plain, but buffalo wallows are still occasionally discernible 
 in sunken spots, and portions of the old trails are easily 
 discoverable among the adjacent hills. 
 
 Intermediate Stations (via Great Bend): Fruit 
 Valley, Nickerson, Sterling, Alden, Raymond, Clarendon, 
 Ellinwood, Dartmouth, Great Bend, Dundee, Pawnee 
 Rock, Larned, Hamburg, Garfield, Nettleton. 
 
 Intermediate Stations (via Kinsley cut-off): Sher- 
 man, Partridge, Abbyville, Plevna, Sylvia, Zenith, Stafford, 
 St. John, Dillwyn, Macksville, Belpre, Lewis. 
 
 Kinsley. — Chicago, 791 miles; St. Louis, 651 miles; Los Angeles, 
 3 
 
34 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 1,474 miles; San Diego, 1,557 miles; San Francisco, 1,786 miles. Alti- 
 tude, 2,179 feet. Population, 771. Dining station. 
 
 A second crossing- of the Arkansas River. 
 Intermediate Stations: Offerle, Bellefont, Speare- 
 ville, Wrig-ht. 
 
 Dodge City. — Chicago, 827 miles; St. Louis, 687 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,438 miles; San Diego, 1,521 miles; San Francisco, 1,750 
 miles. Dining station. Junction with Dodge City, Montezuma & 
 Trinidad Railway, and Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railway. 
 Altitude, 2,493 feet. Po23ulation, 1,763. 
 
 This is the location of the old Fort Dodge Military 
 Reservation, where now is the State Soldiers' Home, with 
 about 300 inmates. 
 
 Dodge City acquired some celebrity, not many years 
 back, as a rendezvous for cowboys, whose particular 
 pleasure, when nothing more exciting" engaged their 
 attention in idle hours, was to make a characteristic 
 demonstration when the overland trains passed. And the 
 life of the city was a wild and reckless one. But phases 
 in the West change rapidly, and all that is now a matter 
 of reminiscence. It possesses electric lights, water-works, 
 and a flour mill, and is a receiving and distributing point 
 for the surrounding agricultural and grazing country. 
 
 Here the time changes one hour. 
 
 The adoption of arbitrary standards of time grew out 
 of the difficulties of adjusting business operations, partic- 
 ularly the complicated details of arranging railroad train 
 schedules to the differences of local solar time. For the 
 purpose of simplification, four divisions are recognized in 
 the United States, namely. Eastern, Central, Mountain, 
 and Pacific, in which respectively the solar time on the 
 75th, 90th, 105th, and 1 20th degrees of west longitude is 
 used. The difference of 15 degrees longitude between 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 35 
 
 the consecutive standards is one-twenty-fourth of the 
 earth's circumference, and the difference in time is con- 
 sequently exactly one hour. Railroads commonly adhere 
 to one of these standards, but in not a few cities both 
 standard and local time are in use, and clocks have an 
 additional minute-hand in order that both may be indi- 
 cated. The actual working boundaries between these 
 
 OLD-TIME CAMPING FREIGHTER. 
 
 standards, however, far from conforming to meridian 
 lines, are extremely irregular, as will be seen in the 
 following: 
 
 Actual dividing points^ in practice, between Central ajid 
 Mountain Sections — Dodge City, Ellis, Phillipsburg, and 
 Oakley, Kan.; El Paso and Texline, Texas; Holyoke and 
 Hoisington, Colo.; Long Pine, North Platte, and McCook, 
 Neb.; Mandan and Minot, N. D. 
 
 Between Moimtain and Pacific Sections — Barstow and 
 
36 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Mojave, Cal.; Deming, N. M.; Hope and Troy, Idaho; 
 Ogden, Utah.; Huntington, Ore. 
 
 Convenience in railroad operation is the controlling 
 cause of this irregularity. El Paso, Texas, for example, 
 is the focal point of four ponderous railroad systems, each 
 basing on a different standard of time. In that city, as a 
 consequence, four standards are in use — Central Time by 
 the city and the Atlantic System of the Southern Pacific 
 Company; Mountain Time by the Atchison, Topeka & 
 Santa Fe Railroad Company; Pacific Time by the Pacific 
 System of the Southern Pacific Company; and City of 
 Mexico Time by the Mexican Central Railway Company. 
 
 As the earth revolves toward the east, it follows that 
 the east is farther advanced in time than the west, and 
 consequently a traveler journeying westward from New 
 York or Boston will, if he does not correct his watch in 
 transit, find it just three hours fast after crossing the east- 
 ern boundary of the Pacific Division. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Howell, Cimarron, Ingalls, 
 Charleston, Pierceville, Mansfield. 
 
 Garden City. — Chicago, 877 miles; St. Louis, 737 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,388 miles; San Diego, 1,471 miles; San Francisco, 1,700 
 miles. Altitude, 2,844 feet. Population, 1,490. 
 
 An experimental grass and forage station, for investi- 
 gating the agricultural problems presented by the dry 
 plains of western Kansas, is located here. Mr. J. A. 
 Sewall, superintendent of the station, is authority for the 
 following information concerning its work. 
 
 It has been in operation since 1889, having been estab- 
 lished by the United States Department of Agriculture 
 and maintained out of the botanical investigation fund. 
 Seeds of grasses and forage plants, and of grains grown in 
 arid countries, have been brought here from all parts of the 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 37 
 
 world for a test of their practicability tinder the conditions 
 that prevail. The total yearly rainfall of the region being 
 exceedingly small, the inquiry is directed to the discovery 
 of the adaptability of particular species and advantageous 
 methods of cultivation without irrigation. Two hundred 
 and forty acres are under cultivation, and about one hun- 
 dred botanical varieties are tinder test in areas varying 
 from a single square rod to forty acres. As a species 
 
 A WESTERN KANSAS IRRIGATION DITCH. 
 
 gives evidence of being grown successfully, it is given 
 additional space. The ground is plowed not less than one 
 foot deep, and the surface finely pulverized with a harrow 
 containing i,6oo short, small teeth. The deep plowing 
 holds all the rain that falls, and pulverizing minimizes 
 the evaporation. By such a method of cultivation, with- 
 out any irrigation whatever, and with a total rainfall of 
 only five inches from seed-time to harvest, excellent crops 
 
38 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of hay, forage, and special varieties of corn, wheat, oats, 
 and rye are raised yearly, to wit : Jerusalem corn, 30 
 bushels per acre, weight, 58 pounds per bushel ; winter 
 rye, 26 bushels, weight, 58 pounds; Poland wheat, 20}^ 
 bushels, weight, 60 pounds; Algerian wheat, 24)4 bush- 
 els, weight, 64 pounds; oats, 70 bushels, weight, 37 
 pounds; white barley, ;^6 bushels, weight, 48 pounds; 
 black barley, 23^ bushels, weight, 66 pounds. Over 
 ninety tons of seeds have been gratuitously distributed 
 from the station to farmers in the Southwest, and are 
 reported to have been cultivated with gratifying success. 
 
 The significance of such work as this of the experi- 
 mental station will be appreciated by the traveler who has 
 seen the enormous tracts of similar land in our Western 
 country that up to the present time have lain barren on 
 account of small rainfall and difficulties in the way of 
 irrigation. 
 
 At Garden City, also, grain is handled in elevators to 
 the value of nearly $150,000 yearly, and there is a flour 
 mill in operation whose daily capacity is 15Q barrels. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Sherlock, Deerfield, Lakin, 
 Hartland, Lantry, Kendall, Mayline, Syracuse, Medway. 
 
 Cooliclg'e.—T Chicago, 943 miles; St. Louis, 803 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,322 miles; San Diego, 1,405 miles; San Francisco, 1,634 
 miles. Altitude, 3,365 feet. Dining station. 
 
 COLORADO. 
 
 Historical. — Part of the region now comprised in 
 Colorado was included in the original Louisiana Territory, 
 and the remainder was contained in New Mexico. In 
 making up the present State portions of New Mexico, Utah, 
 Nebraska, and Kansas were taken. The first American 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 39 
 
 explorer was Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, who came here in 
 1806 and gave his name to the great mountain peak whose 
 summit he vainly attempted to reach. Maj. S. H. Long 
 came this way in 1820 and similarly perpetuated his name 
 in a peak a little higher than Pike's. About twenty years 
 later Charles Bent established a fort and trading post on 
 the Arkansas River, near the present railroad junction La 
 Junta, and in 1844 Jo^i^ C. Fremont made his first explora- 
 tions of this part of the country. In 1858 gold was dis- 
 covered on the South Platte River, near Denver, and 
 Pike's Peak became a landmark for thousands of fortune 
 seekers who ventured across the plains. 
 
 The northern limit of Spanish settlement was the 
 Arkansas River, which served as a partial boundary 
 between Spanish and French territory in the early parti- 
 tion of the country. 
 
 The Ute Indians, now almost wholly banished to Utah, 
 were the ruling aborigines, although, in the southeastern 
 part. Apaches and other tribes roamed. 
 
 Descriptive. — Colorado is 380 miles long, from east to 
 west, by 280 miles wide, and contains 103,925 square miles. 
 Topographically it is divided into the plains, the foot-hills, 
 and the ranges of the Rocky Mountains. The plains 
 occupy about one-third of the area of tHe entire State, 
 rising rather steeply from an altitude of 3,500 feet at the 
 Kansas boundary to nearly 6,000 feet at the edge of the 
 foot-hills. They are treeless, save along the water-courses 
 and where trees have been planted since settlement. The 
 foot-hills extend north and south at an altitude of from 
 6,500 to 8,000 feet, and are generally covered with timber 
 and are rich in mineral. The Rocky Mountains are an 
 intricate, many-branched chain, but are separable into 
 three prominent divisions, Front, Park, and Saguache 
 ranges, in which nearly 200 individual peaks rise above 
 
40 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 an altitude of 13,000 feet, and about one-fifth as many, not 
 all of which are named, above 14,000. The highest point in 
 Colorado is Mount Elbert (14,436 feet). Pike's (14,147 
 feet), Long's (14,271 feet), and Gray's (14,341 feet) are the 
 best known peaks of the Front Range. Lincoln (14,297 
 feet) and Quandary (14,266 feet) are the highest peaks of 
 the Park Range. The Saguache is perhaps the most 
 notable range of the chain, being a rugged mass of gran- 
 ite about 13,000 feet high, nearly 20 miles broad, and more 
 than 75 miles long. Harvard (14,403 feet), Yale (14,204 
 feet), Princeton (14,202 feet), Mount Massive (14,424 feet), 
 and Mount Ouray (14,043 feet) are a few of its prominent 
 pinnacles. This range is the backbone of the Continental 
 Divide, and is crossed by two world-famous railroad passes, 
 Hagerman Pass on the Colorado Midland Railroad, which 
 reaches a height of 11,528 feet on the side of Mount Mass- 
 ive, and Marshall Pass on the Denver & Rio Grande Rail- 
 road, which climbs Mount Ouray to a height of 10,852 feet. 
 The three ranges named extend from north to south, and 
 between them lie North, Middle, and South Parks. The 
 Saguache Range is prolonged southward by the Sangre 
 de Cristo Range, which in turn is extended by the Culebra 
 Range, and west of the last two lies the largest of the 
 Colorado parks, San Luis, whose area is 9,400 square miles. 
 There are many other parks of smaller size, and all are 
 beautiful mountain-walled basins of great fertility, well- 
 watered and timbered. 
 
 Here the Arkansas, Platte, and Grand rivers and the 
 Rio Grande del Norte take rise, besides innumerable trib- 
 utaries to these and other streams. In this titanic land 
 the water-courses are an unnavigable series of rapids and 
 falls, which, in the lapse of ages, have worn deep, imposing 
 gorges in their beds of rock. 
 
 Colorado is the equal of any part of the United States 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 41 
 
 in grandeur of scenery, save only the Grand Canon of the 
 Colorado River in Arizona, Yosemite Valley in California, 
 and Yellowstone Park in Wyoming. It is the most popu- 
 lar summer resort in the West, thousands every year turn- 
 ing to it from east, south, and north upon the approach 
 of the warm season. The climate is healthful and res- 
 torative, and the air is dry, 
 pure, and cool, by reason of the 
 great elevation of the region. 
 
 mineral 
 
 A COLORADO BEGINNING. 
 
 springs which are beneficially used for a beverage, as at 
 Manitou, or for bathing, as in the great pool at Glenwood 
 Springs. 
 
 Our route lies south of the great Colorado resorts, lead- 
 ing across the southeastern portion of the State, over 
 rather desolate plains, which at length give place to the 
 beauties of mountain scenery. 
 
42 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Climate. — Altitude, pure, dry, and bracing air, pre- 
 dominance of sunny weather, a short, mild winter, and 
 cool nights after the warmest days of summer, make the 
 climate of Colorado exceedingly agreeable and healthful. 
 On the summits of the ranges winter is a severe season, 
 with deep snows, ice, and piercing winds; but while such 
 extreme temperature rules aloft, the towns in the valleys 
 and on the plains are generally favored with spring-like 
 weather, the snow-fall there being usually light and 
 remaining on the ground only a few days. 
 
 In the lower altitudes the direct rays of the sun are hot 
 in midsummer, but the heat lasts only through the middle 
 of the day, and the summer climate can be properly termed 
 a cool one. Sunstroke is unknown. 
 
 For the benefit of such as are interested in the formal 
 statistics of climate, the following tables are given. They 
 are taken from the records of the Signal Service at Denver, 
 and cover a period of nineteen years: 
 
 total precipitation in INCHES. 
 
 1872 
 
 1873 
 1874 
 
 1875 
 1876 
 1877 
 1878 
 1879 
 1880 
 188 1 
 1882 
 1883 
 1884 
 1885 
 1886. 
 1887 
 1888, 
 1889. 
 1890 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apr. 
 
 May. 
 
 June. 
 
 July. 
 
 Aug, 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 0.55 
 
 0.22 
 
 I 71 
 
 2.09 
 
 3-74 
 
 2.07 
 
 2.69 
 
 I 75 
 
 1-57 
 
 0.68 
 
 0.69 
 
 0.13 
 
 0.24 
 
 0.22 
 
 2-43 
 
 0-75 
 
 2.24 
 
 2.00 
 
 I 
 
 41 
 
 0.89 
 
 0-73 
 
 0. 16 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.53 
 
 0.49 
 
 1.70 
 
 2-43 
 
 1 .21 
 
 3-35 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 1-34 
 
 0.64 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.60 
 
 039 
 
 2.24 
 
 1.94 
 
 0-43 
 
 4-32 
 
 I 
 
 97 
 
 2.89 
 
 0.22 
 
 1.28 
 
 0.21 
 
 O.II 
 
 1.80 
 
 1.22 
 
 8.57 
 
 1 .10 
 
 1. 16 
 
 2 
 
 03 
 
 0.60 
 
 0.12 
 
 1-50 
 
 1.90 
 
 0.40 
 
 1 .40 
 
 2.77 
 
 2.30 
 
 I 93 
 
 0-33 
 
 I 
 
 30 
 
 0.38 
 
 215 
 
 0-73 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.48 
 
 1.82 
 
 0.05 
 
 2.90 
 
 2.78 
 
 1.38 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 1.23 
 
 0.80 
 
 0.67 
 
 0.40 
 
 0-39 
 
 1. 00 
 
 2.62 
 
 3.36 
 
 0.32 
 
 0.64 
 
 I 
 
 38 
 
 0.02 
 
 0. 19 
 
 0.21 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.32 
 
 0.21 
 
 0.31 
 
 I. II 
 
 1.22 
 
 1.38 
 
 I 
 
 46 
 
 0.89 
 
 1-37 
 
 0.83 
 
 0.49 
 
 1.22 
 
 0.87 
 
 0.50 
 
 2.21 
 
 0.09 
 
 2.50 
 
 2 
 
 33 
 
 0-57 
 
 0.32 
 
 1.68 
 
 057 
 
 0.20 
 
 0.20 
 
 1.47 
 
 2.98 
 
 4.96 
 
 0.66 
 
 I 
 
 20 
 
 0.06 
 
 0.75 
 
 0.71 
 
 2-35 
 
 0.45 
 
 0.21 
 
 3.10 
 
 4-30 
 
 0.85 
 
 2.27 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 1.08 
 
 1.49 
 
 0.32 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.86 
 
 0-93 
 
 3-33 
 
 4.61 
 
 1.47 
 
 0.65 
 
 1 
 
 71 
 
 0.13 
 
 1. 21 
 
 0.19 
 
 0.41 
 
 0-75 
 
 0.97 
 
 4.94 
 
 2.13 
 
 0.66 
 
 1-33 
 
 I 
 
 18 
 
 1 .22 
 
 0-73 
 
 0.55 
 
 0.62 
 
 0.72 
 
 2.36 
 
 2.79 
 
 0.09 
 
 2.26 
 
 0.50 
 
 I 
 
 62 
 
 0.98 
 
 0.33 
 
 1-93 
 
 0.67 
 
 0.30 
 
 0.23 
 
 2 16 
 
 1-13 
 
 0-53 
 
 2.49 
 
 2 
 
 68 
 
 0.97 
 
 0.97 
 
 0.22 
 
 O.II 
 
 0-37 
 
 I 15 
 
 1.71 
 
 2.66 
 
 0.29 
 
 0.41 
 
 I 
 
 51 
 
 O.II 
 
 0.77 
 
 0-33 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.70 
 
 0.40 
 
 1-34 
 
 3-44 
 
 1.88 
 
 2.94 
 
 
 
 33 
 
 0.28 
 
 2. II 
 
 0-53 
 
 0.18 
 
 0.46 
 
 35 
 
 2.50 
 
 2.01 
 
 Tr'ce 
 
 0.79 
 
 I 
 
 89 
 
 0.17 
 
 0.64 
 
 0.30 
 
 Dec. 
 
 0.29 
 0.61 
 o. 17 
 
 0.59 
 1.70 
 0.79 
 1.05 
 
 0-33 
 o. 10 
 0.00 
 
 0-73 
 2.32 
 0.76 
 1.08 
 0.87 
 0.14 
 0.09 
 0.30 
 0.04 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 43 
 
 MONTHLY MEAN RELATIVE HUMIDITY. 
 
 1872. 
 
 1873- 
 1874. 
 
 1875- 
 1876. 
 1877. 
 1878. 
 1879. 
 1880. 
 1881. 
 1882. 
 1883. 
 1884. 
 1885. 
 1886. 
 1887. 
 1888. 
 1889. 
 1890. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 63 
 
 56 
 
 45 
 
 44 
 
 51 
 
 61 
 
 56 
 
 47 
 
 42 
 
 40 
 
 62 
 
 63 
 
 54 
 
 48 
 
 54 
 
 58 
 
 41 
 
 51 
 
 60 
 
 S8 
 
 57 
 
 48 
 
 56 
 
 64 
 
 54 
 
 57 
 
 57 
 
 64 
 
 67 
 
 52 
 
 54 
 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 53 
 
 66 
 
 S6 
 
 58 
 
 
 55 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apr. 
 
 May. 
 
 61 
 
 ' 48 
 
 56 
 
 29 
 
 53 
 
 52 
 
 59 
 
 1 54 
 
 42 
 
 49 
 
 1 47 
 
 40 
 
 52 
 
 39 
 
 45 
 
 48 
 
 54 
 
 46 
 
 43 
 
 34 
 
 50 
 
 46 
 
 60 
 
 41 
 
 42 
 
 39 
 
 38 
 
 57 
 
 48 
 
 55 
 
 40 
 
 49 
 
 59 
 
 53 
 
 57 
 
 57 
 
 56 
 
 57 
 
 58 
 
 57 
 
 62 
 
 59 
 
 65 
 
 67 
 
 31 
 
 43 
 
 47 
 
 47 
 
 55 
 
 41 
 
 56 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 56 
 
 4 J 
 
 48 
 
 5- 
 
 51 
 41 
 
 43 
 29 
 
 38 
 39 
 51 
 40 
 
 39 
 35 
 58 
 53 
 53 
 51 
 55 
 44 
 38 
 
 54 
 45 
 42 
 
 55 
 40 
 
 34 
 49 
 47 
 49 
 47 
 47 
 50 
 43 
 54 
 48 
 53 
 45 
 50 
 44 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Xov. 
 
 52 
 
 51 
 
 42 
 
 47 
 
 49 
 
 43 
 
 50 
 
 42 
 
 45 
 
 44 
 
 54 
 
 42 
 
 47 
 
 52 
 
 32 
 
 57 
 
 1 '*5 
 
 43 
 
 34 
 
 47 
 
 1 37 
 
 38 
 
 52 
 
 52 
 
 I 51 
 
 45 
 
 30 
 
 43 
 
 1 43 
 
 35 
 
 33 
 
 50 
 
 48 
 
 46 
 
 57 
 
 66 
 
 54 
 
 44 
 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 43 
 
 39 
 
 47 
 
 51 
 
 49 
 
 48 
 
 56 
 
 46 
 
 53 
 
 41 
 
 49 
 
 47 
 
 57 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 56 
 
 5^ 
 
 53 
 
 50 
 
 61 
 
 55 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 53 
 
 51 
 
 46 
 
 51 
 
 62 
 
 50 
 
 44 
 
 53 
 
 68 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 43 
 
 Dec. 
 
 54 
 59 
 56 
 45 
 52 
 55 
 53 
 60 
 64 
 51 
 44 
 61 
 
 63 
 57 
 53 
 52 
 50 
 56 
 36 
 
 MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE. 
 
 1872. 
 
 1873- 
 1874. 
 
 1875- 
 
 1876. 
 
 1877. 
 
 1878. 
 
 1879 
 
 1880. 
 
 1881. 
 
 1882 
 
 1883. 
 
 1884- 
 
 1885. 
 
 1886. 
 
 1887. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 56 o 
 62.0 
 62.0 
 56.0 
 59 o 
 58.0 
 55-0 
 61 .0 
 63 o 
 63.0 
 67.0 
 61.0 
 59 -o 
 64.0 
 62.8 
 66 9 
 76 o 
 56.0 
 78.0 
 
 Feb. 
 
 60.0 
 60.0 
 64 o 
 66.0 
 60,0 
 61 .0 
 72.0 
 59.0 
 60.5 
 61 .0 
 56 o 
 
 61.3 
 60.4 
 71.0 
 
 70.9 
 70.5 
 
 61 .0 
 
 77'° 
 
 Mar. 
 
 75 o 
 62.0 
 73-0 
 70.0 
 75 o 
 76.0 
 81.0 
 
 73-0 
 69.0 
 
 71 .0 
 70.0 
 
 61. 1 
 68.3 
 68.0 
 
 74-7 
 70.0 
 70.0 
 71 .0 
 
 Apr. 
 
 80.0 
 81.0 
 83.0 
 80.0 
 82.0 
 72.0 
 80.0 
 76.0 
 77.0 
 80.0 
 76.0 
 730 
 70.3 
 71 . 2 
 74.6 
 82.5 
 80.6 
 78.0 
 77.0 
 
 May. June. 
 
 91 o 
 
 84 o 
 92.0 
 
 87.0 
 85.0 
 
 85 o 
 
 87.0 
 
 90.0 
 
 89.0 
 83.8 
 78.0 
 79.2 
 80.5 
 86.0 
 89.9 
 89.4 
 
 80. 5 
 
 92.0 
 99.0 
 
 98-5 
 97.0 
 97.0 
 95-0 
 93 o 
 95 o 
 96.0 
 95-0 
 88.2 
 91.0 
 90.2 
 86.2 
 92 7 
 95 9 
 97-7 
 92.0 
 94.0 
 
 July. Aug 
 
 950 
 99 -o 
 102.3 
 95 -o 
 
 lOI.O 
 
 99.0 
 
 100. o 
 
 98.0 
 
 95 o 
 
 99.0 
 
 91 
 
 95 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 96 
 
 92.1 
 100.3 
 100. o 
 
 97 o 
 
 950 
 
 96.0 
 
 96.5 
 
 96.0 
 100. o 
 
 99.0 
 105.0 
 950 
 930 
 
 95-8 
 94.0 
 91.0 
 92.2 
 92.8 
 
 94-3 
 94 6 
 92.4 
 98.0 
 
 Sept. 
 
 90.0 
 92.0 
 91.0 
 90.0 
 92.0 
 93-0 
 
 87.7 
 87.8 
 89.6 
 
 85-7 
 87.6 
 90.0 
 94.0 
 87.0 
 
 Oct. 
 
 05.0 
 86.0 
 83.2 
 84.0 
 85.0 
 85.0 
 83.0 
 84.0 
 79.0 
 81.7 
 76.0 
 75-2 
 80.3 
 80.1 
 77.0 
 
 85.1 
 79.8 
 85.0 
 751 
 
 Nov 
 
 66.0 
 71.0 
 72.0 
 75-0 
 76.0 
 67.0 
 73-0 
 76.0 
 61.0 
 66.0 
 65.0 
 73-2 
 69.8 
 
 75.0 
 63.0 
 
 73-7 
 70.2 
 60.0 
 74.0 
 
 Dec. 
 
 59-0 
 59 -o 
 71 .0 
 66.0 
 68.0 
 64.0 
 62.0 
 66.0 
 61 .0 
 67.0 
 64.0 
 62.0 
 68.2 
 74.1 
 64.8 
 66.6 
 
 675 
 66.0 
 
 75 -o 
 
44 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 AVERAGE TEMPERATURE. 
 
 l8-/2 
 
 1873 
 1874 
 
 1875 
 1876 
 1877 
 1878 
 1879 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apr. 
 
 May. 
 
 June. 
 
 July. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 24 
 
 33 
 
 36 
 
 45 
 
 57 
 
 66 
 
 68 
 
 69 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 34 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 44 
 
 38 
 
 53 
 
 68 
 
 71 
 
 70 
 
 60 
 
 46 
 
 41 
 
 32 
 
 26 
 
 36 
 
 43 
 
 6r 
 
 69 
 
 75 
 
 77 
 
 59 
 
 53 
 
 42 
 
 17 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 44 
 
 59 
 
 69 
 
 68 
 
 69 
 
 61 
 
 54 
 
 38 
 
 28 
 
 38 
 
 35 
 
 49 
 
 56 
 
 66 
 
 74 
 
 70 
 
 62 
 
 55 
 
 38 
 
 25 
 
 35 ♦ 
 
 43 
 
 44 
 
 5b 
 
 64 
 
 73 
 
 70 
 
 62 
 
 46 
 
 35 
 
 27 
 
 3b 
 
 46 
 
 49 
 
 54 
 
 63 
 
 73 
 
 72 
 
 58 
 
 50 
 
 42 
 
 24 
 
 3b 
 
 46 
 
 50 
 
 61 
 
 68 
 
 74 
 
 69 
 
 62 
 
 52 
 
 38 
 
 36 
 
 28 
 
 34 
 
 47 
 
 57 
 
 67 
 
 70 
 
 69 
 
 61 
 
 48 
 
 22 
 
 26 
 
 30 
 
 38 
 
 52 
 
 59 
 
 71 
 
 75 
 
 73 
 
 60 
 
 50 
 
 36 
 
 30 
 
 38 
 
 43 
 
 47 
 
 52 
 
 65 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 63 
 
 50 
 
 37 
 
 28 
 
 22 
 
 44 
 
 46 
 
 54 
 
 65 
 
 71 
 
 71 
 
 62 
 
 47 
 
 43 
 
 32 
 
 30 
 
 39 
 
 44 
 
 54 
 
 67 
 
 74 
 
 68 
 
 65 
 
 46 
 
 42 
 
 29 
 
 32 
 
 38 
 
 46 
 
 53 
 
 64 
 
 70 
 
 68 
 
 62 
 
 49 
 
 43 
 
 21 
 
 39 
 
 34 
 
 44 
 
 61 
 
 65 
 
 1\ 
 
 71 
 
 60 
 
 52 
 
 33 
 
 31 
 
 32 
 
 46 
 
 49 
 
 60 
 
 69 
 
 69 
 
 68 
 
 63 
 
 48 
 
 40 
 
 27 
 
 29 
 
 33 
 
 53 
 
 53 
 
 68 
 
 71 
 
 65 
 
 61 
 
 48 
 
 34 
 
 27 
 
 30 
 
 43 
 
 51 
 
 56 
 
 64 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 60 
 
 52 
 
 32 
 
 28 
 
 34 
 
 41 
 
 48 
 
 58 
 
 68 
 
 75 
 
 69 
 
 68 
 
 50 
 
 40 
 
 Dec. 
 
 28 
 23 
 30 
 38 
 28 
 33 
 23 
 29 
 30 
 39 
 35 
 32 
 25 
 36 
 37 
 29 
 34 
 40 
 
 MINIMUM TEMPERATURE. 
 
 
 Jan. 
 
 Feb.' 
 
 Mar. 
 
 Apr. 
 
 May. 
 
 June. 
 
 July. 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Oct. 
 
 Nov. 
 
 Dec. 
 
 I872-- 
 
 1873- . 
 
 — 22.0 
 
 — 4.0 
 30.0 
 
 .0 
 
 19.0 
 10. 
 
 27.0 
 27.0 
 
 430 
 42.0 
 
 45-0 
 42.0 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 — .8 
 
 —17.0 
 
 11 .0 
 
 50.0 
 
 28.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.0 
 
 — 5 f> 
 
 1874.- 
 
 — 7.0 
 
 — II. 
 
 12.0 
 
 14.0 
 
 29.0 
 
 40.0 
 
 51.0 
 
 51.2 
 
 34-6 
 
 13.2 
 
 8.0 
 
 — 50 
 
 I875-- 
 
 — 29.0 
 
 — 3-0 
 
 I.O 
 
 9.0 
 
 35-0 
 
 38.0 
 
 53-0 
 
 50.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 27.0 
 
 5-0 
 
 — 30 
 
 1876.. 
 
 2.0 
 
 7.0 
 
 3-0 
 
 4.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 38.0 
 
 43 
 
 44.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 24.0 
 
 3-0 
 
 —25.0 
 
 1877.. 
 
 —15.0 
 
 16.0 
 
 0.0 
 
 12.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 39 -o 
 
 48.0 
 
 47.0 
 
 37 -o 
 
 22.0 
 
 —18.0 
 
 — 50 
 
 1878.. 
 
 — 12. 
 
 15-0 
 
 21.0 
 
 25.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 430 
 
 540 
 
 54-0 
 
 34-0 
 
 10. 
 
 II. 
 
 — 12.0 
 
 1879.. 
 
 — lO.O 
 
 — 3-0 
 
 17.0 
 
 28.0 
 
 37-0 
 
 43-0 
 
 52.0 
 
 50.0 
 
 38.0 
 
 20.0 
 
 II. 
 
 —17.0 
 
 1880.. 
 
 — 6.0 
 
 — 8.0 
 
 — 10. 
 
 80.0 
 
 32.0 
 
 39-0 
 
 54-0 
 
 50.0 
 
 350 
 
 26.0 
 
 —13-5 
 
 — II 
 
 1881.. 
 
 — 12.0 
 
 — 20.0 
 
 8.0 
 
 180.0 
 
 34-6 
 
 48.9 
 
 57-0 
 
 531 
 
 37-0 
 
 28.0 
 
 10.5 
 
 18.0 
 
 1882.. 
 
 1.2 
 
 10.5 
 
 10. 
 
 21.0 
 
 34-0 
 
 43-0 
 
 49.0 
 
 47.0 
 
 38.8 
 
 27-3 
 
 — 4.0 
 
 — 2.0 
 
 1883.. 
 
 — 20.0 
 
 — 22.0 
 
 18.0 
 
 22.0 
 
 31-5 
 
 37-0 
 
 52.0 
 
 50.0 
 
 40s 
 
 25.0 
 
 23-4 
 
 2.0 
 
 1884. . 
 
 — 2.0 
 
 — 15-0 
 
 10.9 
 
 22.5 
 
 28.0 
 
 48.0 
 
 52.0 
 
 51.0 
 
 40.0 
 
 26.0 
 
 13.2 
 
 — 8.0 
 
 1885.. 
 
 — 10.9 
 
 0.2 
 
 5-4 
 
 17.6 
 
 27.1 
 
 41.0 
 
 50-3 
 
 46.4 
 
 42.5 
 
 21.9 
 
 II. 2 
 
 -5-6 
 
 1886.. 
 
 — 18.9 
 
 2.9 
 
 — 10.7 
 
 20.5 
 
 35-5 
 
 46.8 
 
 55-5 
 
 48.5 
 
 29.0 
 
 22.6 
 
 — 6.0 
 
 1.4 
 
 1887.. 
 
 -17.6 
 
 — 2.6 
 
 13.2 
 
 20.5 
 
 30-9 
 
 43-7 
 
 50.0 
 
 46.9 
 
 35-0 
 
 7.8 
 
 —14.2 
 
 -13.6 
 
 1888.. 
 
 — 20.3 
 
 155 
 
 — 1-5 
 
 30.0 
 
 31-5 
 
 41 .0 
 
 51-4 
 
 49.2 
 
 38.0 
 
 26.0 
 
 "•5 
 
 7.2 
 
 1889.. 
 
 3-5 
 
 — 7.0 
 
 18.0 
 
 29.0 
 
 32 
 
 37-0 
 
 50.0 
 
 46.0 
 
 30.0 
 
 25.0 
 
 30 
 
 4.0 
 
 1890. . 
 
 — 7-5 
 
 — 8.0 
 
 5-0 
 
 195 
 
 31.8 
 
 370 
 
 540 
 
 48. 
 
 34-0 
 
 25 I 
 
 17.0 
 
 13-8 
 
 Dash ( — ) denotes below zero. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 45 
 
 WEATHER. 
 
 Jan. 
 
 1872. 
 
 1873- 
 1874- 
 1875- 
 1876. 
 1877. 
 1878. 
 1879. 
 
 Feb. 
 
 1872. 
 
 1873- 
 1874. 
 1875- 
 1876. 
 1877. 
 
 1879. 
 1880. 
 
 1890 
 
 March. 
 
 1872 
 
 1873 ... 
 
 '874 
 
 1875..... 
 
 1876 
 
 1877 
 
 1879 
 
 1890. 
 
 
 
 >. 
 
 
 
 u 
 
 X) 
 
 C 
 
 rt 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 fe 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 q 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 II 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 23 
 
 7 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 20 
 
 lO 
 
 I 
 
 b 
 
 15 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 18 
 
 II 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 IS 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 II 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 b 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 22 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 16 
 
 II 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 II 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 Q 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 II 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 16 
 
 10 
 
 •S 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 15 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 17 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 II 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 II 
 
 3 
 
 2S 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 16 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 April 
 
 872... 
 873... 
 874--- 
 875--- 
 876... 
 
 877--- 
 
 890.. 
 May. 
 
 872.. 
 873-- 
 874- 
 875- 
 876.. 
 
 877-- 
 
 879. 
 880. 
 
 879. 
 
 887. 
 
 June. 
 
 873- 
 874- 
 875- 
 876. 
 
 877- 
 
 879 - 
 
 890. 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 n\ 
 
 u 
 
 x; 
 
 c 
 
 (1) 
 
 rt 
 
 y 
 
 *•"* 
 
 
 
 b 
 
 q 
 9 
 
 q 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 b 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 6| 
 
 II 
 
 b 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 b 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 b 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 lb 
 
 8 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 14 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 .S 
 
 4 
 
 lb 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 II 
 
 i6| 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 II 
 
 18! 
 
 8 
 
 lb 
 
 7 
 
 q' 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 9 
 
 i.S 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
 b 
 
 9| 
 
 7 
 
 lb 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 13I 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 "i 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 17! 
 
 b 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 i7| 
 
 lb 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 lb 
 
 I 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 ^5 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 9i 
 
 lb 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 II 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 M 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 II 
 
 17 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 8 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 21 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 21 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 3|"| 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 3' 
 
 b 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 22 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 
 
 July, 
 
 872.. 
 873- 
 874-- 
 875- 
 876.. 
 
 877-- 
 
 890 
 
 August, 
 
 872 
 
 873 ■ 
 
 874 
 
 875 
 
 876 
 
 877 
 
 879- 
 
 890.. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 872.. 
 
 873-- 
 874... 
 
 875- 
 876.., 
 
 877— 
 
 879- 
 
 890. 
 
 
 
 >, 
 
 
 J5 
 
 0) 
 
 ni 
 
 3 
 
 C 
 
 U 
 
 fe 
 
 
 
 q 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 lO 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 17 
 
 II 
 
 lb 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 lb 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 II 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 II 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 Q 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 b 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 21 
 
 2 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 15 
 
 lb 
 
 II 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 22 
 
 2 
 
 II 
 
 b 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 I 
 
 21 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 IS 
 
 8 
 
 II 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 II 
 
 7 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 IS 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 b 
 
 .S 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 12 
 
 lb 
 
 3 
 
 lb 
 
 20 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 lb 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 lb 
 
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46 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 . Industrial. — Mining in Colorado began with the dis- 
 covery of gold in 1858, but it has grown to be the second 
 silver-producing State, the principal smelters being 
 located at Denver and Pueblo. The extent of its iron 
 mines is very great. It has 40,000 square miles of coal 
 fields, in whose mines nearly 6,000 men are employed. Its 
 annual coal product is 2,500,000 tons, in which both anthra- 
 cite and bituminous are included. Petroleum wells have 
 been in operation here for ten years past. Variegated 
 
 A COLORADO RANCH. 
 
 marbles and sandstone, granite, and gypsum are largely 
 quarried. 
 
 In spite of the large output of metals, the value of the 
 yearly agricultural and horticultural product is even 
 greater. Alfalfa, wheat, barley, oats, corn, potatoes, 
 apples, peaches, grapes, and berries are extensively raised. 
 Colorado fruit is of the very best quality, and fruit-raising 
 in suitable localities is one of the most profitable of legit- 
 imate industries. 
 
 The annual export of wool reaches 10,000,000 pounds, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 47 
 
 and there are about 1,500,000 cattle. The winter climate 
 is peculiarly favorable to the raising of stock and sheep, 
 as feed is always to be had on the ranges, and the animals 
 rarely suffer from severity of the weather. 
 
 PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Holleys, Byron, Granada, 
 Koen, Carlton, Morse, Lamar, Prowers, Caddoa, Hilton. 
 
 Las Animas. — Chicago, 1,010 miles; St. Louis, 870 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,255 miles; San Diego, 1,338 miles; San Francisco, 1,567 
 miles. Altitude, 3,871 feet. Population, 611. 
 
 An old j\Iexican town, at the confluence of the Las 
 Animas (or Purgatory) River with the Arkansas. This 
 tributary in its course flows through a lengthy and pro- 
 found canon, in which, according to legend, an entire 
 company of Spanish soldiers perished in the days of the 
 early exploration. On this account, if the legend is true, 
 or perhaps merely exercising their poetic faculty, the 
 Spaniards called this stream Rio de las Animas Perdidas, 
 the River of Lost Souls. The voyagciirs translated the 
 name into the French word Purgatoire^ which, in the 
 vernacular, has been subjected to the pronunciation 
 " Picketwire." This is worthy of note as an example of 
 the manner in which names may lose their original form 
 by translation, and may be subsequently corrupted into 
 something quite meaningless until the clew is discovered. 
 Las Animas, it will be observed, is a contraction of the 
 original name of the river, and its signification. The 
 Souls, would be perplexing without the explanation above 
 given. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Robinson. 
 
 La Juiita. — Chicago, 1,029 miles; St. Louis, 889 miles; Los 
 
48 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Angeles, 1,236 miles; San Diego, 1,319 miles; San Francisco, 1,548 
 miles. Altitude, 4,061 feet. Population, 1,439, Dining station. 
 
 Diverging point of the Santa Fe line to Pueblo, Canon 
 City, Colorado vSprings, and Denver, and through Colo- 
 rado Springs to the principal Colorado resorts, and via 
 Salt Lake City and Ogden to San Francisco. 
 
 A short distance west from La Junta, on the north side 
 of the Arkansas, is the site of Bent's Fort, which was 
 established in the "forties." Of this memento of the old 
 wild life of the frontier, James W. Steele writes as 
 follows: 
 
 The occupants of Bent's Fort were hunters by predilection. 
 They loved the wilderness, and never returned to civilization. They 
 were fur-hunters and Indian traders, and Indian fighters at the 
 same time. They kept no records; they did not care. The Ameri- 
 can history they were making never got into any books. They were 
 intolerant and savage-tempered men, desperadoes on a pinch, every 
 one. Their ranks were recruited by fugitives from justice. Life 
 was held very cheap. At Bent's Fort a sod wall, thick and high, 
 inclosed about an acre. There never was a more terrible acre of 
 ground. It was full of the most reckless men ever gathered in one 
 spot. The man Bent was the recognized head of them, and was 
 afterward the first American Governor of New Mexico. The com- 
 mercial idea was probably predominant, for everything was kept for 
 sale there. The place was in the midst of a great buJEfalo range, and 
 around it Apache, Cheyenne, Comanche, and Pawnee gathered and 
 hunted and fought. They used, when lacking a quarrel among 
 themselves, to attack the fort. They charged the wall on horseback. 
 They never captured it, but if one should visit those ruins now he 
 might be sure that he was standing upon ground that had been 
 repeatedly soaked with human blood. 
 
 The following graphic picture of that early time is 
 from the pen of Mr. Frank Wilkeson: 
 
 As emigration increased on the Arkansas trail, Bent's Fort 
 became an important place. United States troops, marching to the 
 Southeastern Territories, camped there, and frequently secured 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 49 
 
 guides from the post. Thousands of dollars' worth of goods were 
 sold annually. Enterprising young men bought goods at Bent's and 
 loaded them onto their pack animals. Then they rode north, south, 
 west, in search of Indian camps, which they entered and there 
 traded with savage customers. The peddlers of the plains traded 
 only for the more valuable furs. They penetrated into the remote 
 recesses of the Rocky Mountains. They crossed that mighty snow- 
 capped range and drummed up trade in then unnamed valleys where 
 unknown Indians lived. These men acquired trading routes along 
 certain trails and jealously defended them against all intruders. 
 They recklessly entered all the Indian villages they discovered. In 
 time, if they were not shot or burned, they became widely known 
 among the Indians, and were welcomed and trusted. They supplied 
 the warriors with powder and lead and percussion caps. They also 
 dealt in traps, bright-colored cloth, beads, knives, axes, fish-hooks, 
 buttons, and brass wire. Many of these traders married Indian 
 women, and from these unions sprang the half-breeds — dangerous 
 men in whom the courage of their fathers was supplemented by the 
 crafty treachery of their mothers. Some of the white traders, 
 especially in the Rocky Mountain region, adopted the dress and 
 habits of the Indians, and frequently became men of consequence in 
 the tribes. 
 
 Other men, lured from the bloody frontier by hope of profitable 
 barter or love of adventure, or who sincerely desired to put a greater 
 distance between themselves and pursuing sheriffs, loaded wagons 
 with goods and drove westward to the buffalo range, expecting 
 to meet wandering tribes of Indians. They were careless whether 
 they met Sioux, Cheyennes, Crows, or Blackfeet. These men gener- 
 ally traveled in groups of three or four, each driving a team of horses, 
 behind which rolled a heavily-loaded wagon. To-day they traded 
 with Sioux; to-morrow they met Comanche braves; the next day 
 painted and blanketed Cheyenne warriors crowded around their 
 wagons and exchanged furs for powder, balls, blankets, and hard- 
 ware. Or, to-day they fought, and to-morrow their corpses lay 
 blackening in the sun, and glossy ravens perched on their scalpless 
 heads and plucked their eyes, and foul buzzards stalked around them 
 and prairie wolves tore them to pieces. Their goods were scattered 
 throughout the villages, and their scalps, suspended from sticks 
 thrust in the ground at the entrance of lodges, waved in the wind, 
 and little Indian children spat on them as they played. 
 
 4 
 
50 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The Colorado Resorts. — Many California tourists 
 whose plan does not include a return by way of Ogden 
 and central Colorado, make, either going or returning, 
 a side excursion from La Junta to the famous resorts of 
 Colorado. For the benefit of such the following brief 
 account of the most noted is included: 
 
 Pueblo. — 64 miles west from La Junta. Chicago, 1,093 miles; 
 St. Louis, 953 miles. Altitude, 4,656 feet. Population, 24,558. 
 
 Sometimes called " The Pittsburg of the West." It is 
 in the midst of a large tract of country particularly 
 favorable for the culture of fruits, vegetables, and cereals, 
 and adjoins a rich mineral-bearing region. Its site was 
 formerly a Mexican village, to which fact its Spanish 
 name happens to be due. It is a metropolitan city, with 
 handsome public buildings, and business blocks of stone 
 and brick, and costly residences. Its industries include 
 Bessemer steel works; ore-stamping, smelting, and refin- 
 ing works; foundries, car and machine shops, and flour 
 mills. Its climate, like that of all the Colorado resorts 
 hereinafter mentioned, is mild in winter and very agree- 
 able and healthful in summer. 
 
 A famous attraction at Pueblo is the Mineral Palace, 
 erected in 1891. This is a costly and handsome structure 
 of modernized Egyptian architecture, 224 feet long and 
 134 feet wide, and capable of containing 4,000 persons. 
 The ceiling is 90 feet high, and consists of 28 domes, sup- 
 ported by gilded columns, around whose bases are 
 arranged plate-glass cabinets filled with rich mineral 
 specimens. The Mineral Palace is open to visitors every 
 day in the year. 
 
 Colorado Springs. — 43 miles north of Pueblo. Chicago, 1,136 
 
 miles; St. Louis, 996 miles. Altitude, 6,000 feet. Population, 11,140. 
 
 The name is fanciful. It is a town without a spring, but 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 61 
 
 pure, cold mountain water is supplied in abundance. It 
 stands on the plain closely bordered by the Rockies, 
 Pike's Peak very near at hand and conspicuously towering 
 above the neighboring summits. 
 
 Four or five miles distant, and easily reached by a 
 charming ride on the electric cars, lies Broadmoor Casino, 
 
 HELEN HUNT JACKSON's GRAVE. 
 
 an elaborately beautiful structure by the side of a minia- 
 ture lake. Here the tourist visitors to Colorado Springs 
 throng for band music and dancing. Just beyond the 
 Casino is Cheyenne Canon, the location of Seven Falls, and 
 formerly of Helen Hunt Jackson's grave. The authoress 
 
52 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 particularly loved this locality, and had a log-cabin home 
 above the head of the falls, which still stands and attracts 
 many of her admirers. 
 
 A visit to Cheyenne Canon is a good preliminary to the 
 more stupendous mountain scenery of Colorado. Car- 
 riages or burros are procurable at the end of the electric- 
 car terminus, or the trip can be easily made afoot, as the 
 distance is not great. Seven Falls is a name applied to a 
 brilliant waterfall that tumbles through a rock gorge in 
 a series of seven leaps, by the side of which a long stair- 
 way extends to the very top, where is an upper valley or 
 basin of great beauty, surrounded by timbered mountain 
 slopes. Every day in summer the entire canon is dotted 
 with excursionists, driving, riding or walking to the foot 
 of the falls, climbing the stairway to wander still farther 
 into the woodland, or urging slow but sure-footed burros 
 along the intricate trail that leads by a roundabout way 
 past the falls. There are huge isolated cliffs, domes, 
 and pillars of rock warm with color; and the contrasting 
 tones of evergreen and deciduous trees, and bright hues 
 of wild flowers, and the diversity of landscape, which 
 includes level stretches of shaded wood-road, smooth, fir- 
 clad slopes, tremendous heights and gorges, a clattering 
 mountain stream and roaring cascades, combine to make 
 this a well-loved spot and one often returned to. 
 
 There are good hotels at Colorado Springs, and many 
 attractive boarding places, and there are more summer 
 homes of people who are nominally residents of the North, 
 East, and South, than anywhere else in Colorado. It is 
 considered to possess the most salubrious climate of any 
 city in the State, where healthfulness is, however, gener- 
 ally the rule. There are no factories, and no other noisy 
 or disagreeable business activities to detract from the 
 quiet charm of the place. 
 
NEW OflDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 53 
 
 Colorado Springs is connected with Manitou by electric 
 and steam railroads. 
 
 Manitou. — Six miles west of Colorado Springs. Chicago, 1,142 
 miles; St. Louis, 1,002 miles. Altitude, 6,442 feet. Population, 1,439. 
 
 An Indian name, meaning Great Spirit. Manitou lies 
 at the bottom of Ute Pass, at the point where the pro- 
 found mountain-notch opens out into the plain. It is at the 
 very foot of Pike's Peak, and the scenic environment is sur- 
 passingly beautiful. A broad avenue, eighty feet in width, 
 runs through the village, and on either side are ranged 
 villas, cottages, and a large number of hotels. The vSoda 
 Springs are in the heart of the settlement, in the center of 
 a pretty little park. The Iron Springs are situated a few 
 minutes' walk distant. Aside from the natural loveliness 
 and exhilarating air of this resort, there are very many 
 objects of special interest, a few of which will be enu- 
 merated: 
 
 Pike's Peak. — There are two popular methods of as- 
 cending the Peak, one by way of the Cog-wheel Rail- 
 road, over which trains are regularly run in summer from 
 Manitou, the other by carriage or on horseback from Cas- 
 cade, half a dozen miles beyond Manitou. The railroad 
 station of the Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is in Engel- 
 man's Glen, near the Iron Springs. The railway itself is 
 a few feet short of nine miles in length, and reaches the 
 topmost pinnacle, stopping at the side of the old Signal 
 Service Station, which has been made over into an inn. 
 The Peak is 14,147 feet above sea level, and is 7,525 feet 
 above the starting point in Manitou. A railway that 
 permits the safe ascent and descent of such a tremendous 
 incline, which, in spite of the circuitous path is in some 
 places one foot in four, must be constructed very strongly, 
 and the locomotives themselves must be perfectly adapted 
 
54 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 to the work. Perhaps it never occurred to the unprofes- 
 sional reader that nine miles of heavy track slanting up a 
 mountain side at a steep pitch might be subjected to the 
 peril of sliding bodily downward by reason of its enor- 
 mous weight. But the builders of this railway thought of 
 that, and anchored the track to the mountain bed rock at 
 nearly one hundred and fifty points. The road is of 
 standard gauge (4 feet S% inches), with the ordinary T 
 rails, and in the middle are twin rack-rails, made of the 
 best Bessemer steel, upon the teeth of which the six sep- 
 arate cog-wheels of the locomotive take bearing. The 
 cog-wheels also have a corrugated surface upon which 
 both steam and hand brakes are used to check speed in 
 the descent. The locomotives are constructed for strength 
 rather than speed, and are placed below the coaches in 
 order that an accident may not possibly happen in conse- 
 quence of the breaking of a coupler, although the cars 
 themselves are equipped with powerful brakes. 
 
 Shady Springs, Gog and Magog, Grand Pass, Echo 
 Falls and Echo Rocks, Hanging Rock, Artists' Glen, 
 Sheltered Falls, Minnehaha Falls, Devil's Slide, Pinnacle 
 Rocks, and Grand View Rock are some of the features 
 by the way below the Half-way House; beyond are Hell 
 Gate, Ruxton Park, Sheep Rock, Lion's Gulch, and a par- 
 ticularly steep incline, and then comes the timber line, 
 11,625 feet above the sea. The rest of the peak is wind- 
 swept ledge, bowlder, and gravel. Windy Point and the 
 Saddle follow, from which last-named point a noble view 
 of Manitou is had. A further ride of nearly a mile and a 
 half brings one to the summit. Forty minutes' stop is 
 made before the train returns, but of course the visitor is 
 not compelled to descend on that train. One may even 
 remain over night at the inn. 
 
 Although there are many mountains in Colorado a 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 55 
 
 little higher than Pike's Peak, this is high enough for 
 most travelers, and those with a weak heart or feeble 
 lungs will do well not to attempt the ascent, for the rare- 
 faction of the air at such an altitude is very pronounced, 
 and the most able-bodied person, unless he is accustomed 
 to mountain-heights, will find himself short of breath and 
 disinclined to attempt any violent exertion. The view, as 
 is the case with all lofty peaks, is sometimes obscured by 
 clouds, haze, or flurries of snow or rain; but the trip will 
 invariably repay the genuine lover of mountains. The 
 round trip, including the forty minutes' stop on the sum- 
 mit, consumes four and one-half hours. 
 
 The carriage-road, from Cascade, is double the length 
 of the railway, namely, about eighteen miles, and the 
 fatigues of the ascent by carriage or on horseback are 
 naturally greater, but for those who do not count such a 
 cost too closely, the carriage-road offers much more of 
 enjoyment than the brief railroad trip permits. 
 
 Garden of the Gods. — This is a park of several hun- 
 dred acres, through which are scattered myriad upright 
 forms of rock, indiscriminately grand or grotesque, as 
 if they had been sculptured by nature in the most whim- 
 sical moods, shifting incontinently from austere to frivo- 
 lous. Many are clear caricatures, irresistibly suggesting 
 the object travestied, and although perhaps the one who 
 named the Garden may not have had this idea in mind, it 
 is a peculiarly fitting appellation for a spot where there 
 are so many signs of supermundane laughter. You might 
 take it to be an original playground of the little gods, 
 where they hewed out crude designs, as children make 
 creations of mud, while now and then an older hand con- 
 descended to show them how the thing ought to be done. 
 
 The Eastern Gateway is a splendid natural portal, two 
 august isolated masses of red sandstone towering on either 
 
56 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 side of a narrow but sufficient driveway to a height of 330 
 feet. Balanced Rock stands toward the western extrem- 
 ity of the Garden, a ponderous bowlder resting upon a piv- 
 otal base. The levity of the character of the smaller 
 figures may be inferred from such names as Punch, Judy 
 and the Baby, Kissing Camels, Irish Washerwoman, Ant 
 Eater, Hedgehog, Toad, Turtle, Flying Dutchman, and 
 Grandfather's Hat; and there are scores of like sort. 
 
 The critical visitor may perhaps feel that many of the 
 fancied resemblances have been forced, but there is no 
 question of the grandeur and motley interest of the scene, 
 and the individual names are an accumulation of years, 
 for many thousands visit the Garden of the Gods every 
 season, and enjoy scrutinizing every contour in search of 
 face and form. 
 
 Glen Eyrie. — This is a private estate, the property of 
 General Palmer, but except on the first day of the week it 
 is freely open to visitors. It is nearly three times as large 
 as the Garden of the Gods, and contains Queen Canon, 
 which is seven miles long. Neighboring the garden, it 
 has much of the same character, and its attractiveness is 
 enhanced by landscape gardening, which is maintained at 
 great cost to the owner. 
 
 Grand Caverns and Cave of the Winds. — One and 
 a half miles from the center of the village, separated on 
 the surface by a high ridge, and not feasibly connected in 
 the interior, although it is supposed that intercommuni- 
 cating passages exist. The way to Grand Caverns is along 
 Ute Pass, by the Fountain que Bouille and past Rainbow 
 Falls, to a lofty eminence that overlooks the entire basin. 
 The Cave of the Winds is reached by way of Williams 
 Canon, a narrow gorge with magnificent rock walls. To 
 these, as to the other attractions, there are admirable car- 
 riage-roads. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 57 
 
 The two cave-groups named are similar in character, 
 although the '' rooms " in the first named are the larger. 
 The ceilings are high, in some instances fifty or sixty feet, 
 except in the narrow corridors between the principal 
 compartments, although through those one may walk 
 erect; and the floors are smooth and quite dry. The 
 ceilings and walls are hung with remarkable stalactites 
 and innumerable stalagmite forms. Some of the com- 
 partments are good-sized amphitheaters, with natural 
 galleries, and each one has its name, appropriately descrip- 
 tive or suggested by fancied adaptability to the uses of 
 man. There is in Grand Caverns a natural xylophone of 
 stalactites, called by the guides " The Grand Organ," upon 
 which simple melodies are played with a fullness of tone 
 and approximate correctness of pitch that are surprising. 
 Heard in that gloomy under-world, which lanterns and 
 magnesium lights illuminate only enough to half disclose 
 the brilliancy of natural adornment against a background 
 of midnight shadows, some of the deep notes struck upon 
 those ponderous stalactites will linger long in memory. 
 The route over which the visitor to Grand Caverns and 
 the Cave of the Winds is conducted by the guide is in each 
 case about three-quarters of a mile long, and an hour is 
 easily consumed in the most cursory examination of these 
 really wonderful grottoes. 
 
 Cascade Canon. — Altitude, 7,241 feet, 6 miles west of Manitou; 
 Ute Park, 7,511 feet, 8 miles; Green Mountain Falls, 7,734 
 feet, 9 miles; Woodland Park, 8,484 feet, 14 miles; and Mani- 
 tou Park, 8,500 feet, 20 miles west of Manitou, 
 
 complete the series of resorts on the Ute Pass. The 
 main line of the Colorado Midland Railroad (Sante Fe 
 Route) runs from Colorado Springs directly through every 
 one, except Manitou Park, which is six miles distant from 
 Woodland Park, and is reached from that station by a 
 
58 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 four-in-hand stage-coach of the Concord type. In the 
 Colorado tourist season, which covers the period from 
 June to September, inclusive, these localities are thronged 
 
 with visitors. There 
 are very many first- 
 class hotels, most of 
 which are marvels of 
 beauty and luxury, 
 and tents and cot- 
 tages are also plenti- 
 fully availed of. 
 
 Cripple Creek. — 
 This mining camp is 
 conveniently visited 
 from Manitou, via 
 Divide, a station on 
 the west, the entire 
 distance being forty 
 miles. The way leads 
 through the uplifting 
 scenery of the Ute 
 Pass resorts already 
 mentioned, and from 
 Divide southward its 
 character does not de- 
 teriorate. The Mid- 
 land Terminal Rail- 
 way, recently con- 
 structed, is now in op- 
 eration from Divide 
 to a point eight miles 
 distant from Cripple Creek, and will shortly be completed 
 through. 
 
 In the summer of 1891 the site of Cripple Creek was a 
 
 UTE PASS. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 59 
 
 lonely ranch, and in. a few months thereafter nearly 15,000 
 people had gathered there in consequence of the discovery 
 of gold. A number of very valuable mines are understood 
 to have been developed, and there are many claims of 
 excellent promise. The claims are both placer and lode. 
 The ledge lies underground, near the surface. It is nec- 
 essary to uncover the rock before it can be examined to 
 discover whether or not it contains " mineral," and the 
 pretty slopes of Cripple Creek are liberally heaped with 
 the debris of such excavations. Out of the original des- 
 perately scrambling mob of gold-seekers several thousand 
 have remained, and the town has subsided into legitimate, 
 sober work; but it is still very ragged and exceedingly 
 picturesque, and the trip is a very entertaining one. 
 
 There is an excellent hotel, constructed at a great deal 
 of expense and maintained in first-class style, which is a 
 fact sufficiently unique in a young mining camp to merit 
 specific inention. The trip is entirely practicable for 
 ladies and children. 
 
 The name of the camp is derived from the stream that 
 flows through the region, which in turn is indebted to 
 some small accident which happened to a prospector or 
 ranchman in former days. 
 
 The leisurely traveler, desirous of seeing the best of Col- 
 orado, should continue on through Granite Canon, a rock 
 gorge thirty-five miles west of Manitou, through whose 
 notch the railroad runs by the side of a fork of the Platte 
 River; through Buena Vista, ninety-six miles west of 
 Manitou, an exquisitely located city some 8,000 feet above 
 sea level, in the valley of the Arkansas, at the feet of 
 Mounts Princeton, Harvard, and Yale, which are known 
 as the College Peaks; through Leadville, the greatest 
 mining camp in the world, 1 30 miles west of Manitou, at 
 an altitude of 10,103 feet; over the Hagerman Pass, where 
 
60 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the railroad crosses the Continental Divide at an altitude 
 of 11,528 feet, by a tunnel through Mount Massive; down 
 the Pacific Slope, through Red Rock Caiion, and past the 
 grandly beautiful Seven Castles of red sandstone; and 
 past Aspen Junction to Glenwood Springs. 
 
 Gleiiwood Spring's. — Two hundred and sixteen miles west of 
 Manitou. Chicago, 1,358 miles; St. Louis, 1,218 miles. Altitude, 
 5,Soo feet. Population, 1,170. 
 
 One of the most attractive of mountain resorts. A 
 conjunction of mountain, canon, and valley, clear mount- 
 ain rivers and hot mineral springs, supplemented by a 
 magnificent hotel and bath-house. The swimming pool 
 is 700 feet long, no feet wide, and from 3}^ to 5% feet 
 deep, fed by a hot spring and tempered to a comfort- 
 able degree of warmth by a fountain of cold water in the 
 center. In winter and suminer alike people bathe in this 
 vast out-of-door pool, and find the practice beneficial 
 to health. Special trains, facetiously called "laundry 
 trains," are run from Aspen, and other near cities and 
 villages, one day in every week, to accommodate the multi- 
 tude of bathers. There are also natural caves in the 
 mountain-side, where the hot vapor from the springs 
 accumulates by way of subterranean conduits, and these 
 have been fitted up for the radical treatment of stubborn 
 diseases. 
 
 The analysis of the waters of Yama Spring at Glen- 
 wood is as follows: 
 
 Chloride of sodium 1089. 8307 grains. 
 
 Chloride of magnesium 13.0994 
 
 Bromide of sodium 0.5635 
 
 Iodide of sodium Trace. 
 
 Fluoride of calcium Trace. 
 
 Sulphate of potassa 24.0434 ' ' 
 
 " lime... 82.3861 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 61 
 
 Bicarbonate of lithia J 0.2209 grains. 
 
 " magnesia 13-5532 
 
 " " lime 24.3727 " 
 
 " " iron.. Trace. 
 
 Phosphate of soda Trace. 
 
 Biborate " " Trace. 
 
 Alumina Trace. 
 
 Silica I -97 1 2 " 
 
 Organic matter Trace. 
 
 Totals 1250.041 1 grains. 
 
 Temperature _ _ 124.2° Fahr. 
 
 Carbonic acid, copiously discharged from 
 
 the springs Undetermined. 
 
 Sulphuretted hydrogen, discharged in per- 
 ceptible quantity from the springs Undetermined. 
 
 The vicinity of Glenwood Springs also affords good 
 trout fishing, and bear, elk, and deer shooting. Trappers' 
 Lake is reached by trail from this point. 
 
 Denver. — Seventy-three miles north of Colorado Springs. Chi- 
 cago, 1,209 miles; St. Louis, 1,069 miles. Altitude, 5,190 feet. Popu- 
 lation, 106,713. 
 
 Named after ex-Gov. James W. Denver of Kansas. 
 This magnificent queen city of the plains has been created 
 in thirty-five years, for in 1858 gold was first washed out 
 from the sands of the South Platte by Caucasians, and 
 from a mining-camp that arose after the gold discovery 
 Denver has developed. Mining was the first impulse, and 
 that and the treatment of ores has steadily contributed to 
 the growth of the city to this day, three of the largest 
 and most complete smelting and refining works in the 
 world being established here, their yearly output amount- 
 ing to nearly twenty-five millions of dollars in value. But 
 Denver is also surrounded by a vast area of rich, arable 
 lands, which produce wheat, oats, barley, and other grains. 
 
62 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and roots and vegetables. It has acquired immense cattle 
 and sheep interests, and furnishes a market for the apples, 
 pears, peaches, plums, grapes, and smaller fruits and ber- 
 ries which are grown in the Colorado valleys. It is an 
 important junction point for many concentering railroads, 
 has large manufacturing interests, and is regarded as the 
 trade-center for 400,000 people. Its residences, business 
 blocks, and public buildings afford numerous examples of 
 architectural beauty; the streets are broad, generally level, 
 and frequently shaded, and there is an almost perfect 
 system of electric and cable street railroads. And behind 
 all this lie the attractions of superb climate and scenery. 
 
 We return to our point of digression at La Junta. 
 
 In this vicinity Pike's Peak is visible for some time 
 upon the northwest, at a distance of about ninety miles, 
 and the beautiful Spanish peaks, twin-mountains at the end 
 of a spur of the Culebra Range, northwest from Trini- 
 dad, soon come into view, alternately disappearing and 
 recurring until the summit of Raton Pass has been 
 reached. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Benton, Timpas, Ayer, Iron 
 Springs, Delhi, Thatcher, Tyrone, Earl, Hoehne's. 
 
 Trinidad. — Chicago, i,iii miles; St. Louis, 971 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,154 niiles; San Diego, 1,237 niiles; San Francisco, 1,466 
 miles. Altitude, 5,982 feet. Population, 5,533. Junction with Union 
 Pacific Railway and Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. 
 
 The mining of coal and the manufacture of coke, iron, 
 lumber, mineral paint, lime, plaster of paris, and fire-brick 
 are the principal industries of Trinidad, although flour 
 and beer are also produced, and it is the largest wool and 
 hide shipping point in Colorado. It has water-works, gas, 
 and electric lights. St. Raphael's Hospital, St. Joseph 
 Academy, and the Tillotson University are located here. 
 
 The city is beautifully environed by mountain scenery. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 63 
 
 The conspicuous flat-top peak on the range beyond is 
 known as Fisher's Peak. On the right a ruddy cliff rises 
 to a height of a few hundred feet. Upon its top a party 
 of pioneers was besieged by Indians in the early days, 
 and one of the survivors, named Simpson, chose to be 
 buried there many years after, when his time came to die. 
 A rude monument surmounts Simpson's Rest, which may 
 be seen from the train at the station. 
 
 The tunnel at the summit of Raton Pass is fifteen miles 
 beyond Trinidad, at an altitude more than sixteen hundred 
 feet greater. The difficulties of the ascent of the pass 
 appear in the last few miles, but here the approach may 
 be said to begin. 
 
 Raton Pass. — Altitude (at the tunnel), 7,622 feet. 
 
 There are three stations along the ascent beyond 
 Trinidad, at intervals of five miles. Starkville is a coal- 
 mining and coke-manufacturing point, and the remaining 
 two, Morley and Wooten, are small and commercially 
 unimportant settlements. The entire ascent affords a 
 series of exhilarating views, best enjoyed from the rear 
 platform of the train. The track follows the old Santa 
 Fe trail, which is one of the most ancient of recognizable 
 human pathways to be found on the continent. Wooten 
 was named for an old-timer, " Uncle Dick " Wooten, 
 whose partially-burnt and wholly abandoned house on the 
 right of the track is a relic of the days of the six-horse 
 Concord stage-coach, caravans of emigrants, and long 
 wagon trains loaded with valuable goods and escorted by 
 mounted soldiers to repel the attacks of Indians. Wooten 
 kept the trail over the pass in repair, and collected toll 
 from those who used it. But it was a frequented road 
 centuries before Wooten was born, before the Spanish 
 Invasion, and doubtless before the discovery of America; 
 
64 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 for the practicable passes of the Rockies are compara- 
 tively few in number, and one at all aware of the great 
 antiquity of human life in the Southwest will vainly grope 
 backward for a time in the past when this must not have 
 been a thoroughfare for aboriginal peoples. 
 
 The scenery is not of the tremendous type, but fre- 
 quently wide in scope and full of incident. The road 
 is tortuous, and the pace slow, two heavy locomotives 
 being required to haul the train. The last broad view, 
 before entering the final cut that forms the immediate 
 approach to the tunnel, is a farewell glimpse of the Span- 
 ish peaks, seen directly over the Wooten house, rising 
 from the far horizon of the plains below. 
 
 When the railroad was first built, it climbed over the 
 top of the mountain, by means of a many-angled "switch- 
 back " which began near this point. The Raton Tunnel 
 is 2,0 1 1 feet in length, and lies in New Mexico. A bound- 
 ary post will be noticed some fifty feet short of the 
 entrance. 
 
 From the other end of the tunnel the descent of the 
 pass is a comparatively short matter, and the city of 
 Raton is quickly reached. 
 
 NEW MEXICO. 
 
 Historical. — The oldest existing civilization in the 
 United States is here. Whether or not Cabeza de Vaca 
 passed this way in 1536, after being wrecked with the 
 Narvaez expedition on the Florida reefs, it is certain that 
 Marcos de Nizza saw this country three years later, and 
 that, in 1540, Coronado came with his soldiers for conquest. 
 This same Coronado was a tireless explorer himself, shirk- 
 ing none of the hardships of such enterprise, but intrust- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 65 
 
 ing numerous side expeditions to the command of chosen 
 subordinates. He and his proxies discovered nearly every- 
 thing except that which they sought, namely, gold. They 
 tramped north and east as far as the Missouri River, they 
 pushed to the northwest until they were stopped by the 
 Grand Canon of the Colorado River, and they braved the 
 terrors of the desert on the west until they came to the 
 shores of that river on the border of Southern California. 
 They hoped to find what Cortez had found among the 
 Aztecs, some hundreds of leagues to the south — precious 
 metal wrought into ornamental shapes, all ready for the 
 hand of the conqueror; but in all the native villages of New 
 Mexico no fragment of gold has ever been found. Here, at 
 least, the aborigine seems to have regarded it with disdain, 
 provided he had ever regarded it at all. They did find, as 
 Cortez had found, a resident people of temperate, frugal, 
 and industrious habit, civilized in a way. These were the 
 Pueblos, an Indian people who tilled the soil and dwelt in 
 large communal houses made of stones and sun-dried 
 mud, several stories in height, and in some instances con- 
 taining a thousand compartments. The Spanish word 
 pueblo means a village or a people, and these natives, as 
 well as their curious habitations, have ever since been 
 generally known by the name casually applied by their 
 discoverers, although among themselves they are Moquis, 
 Zufiis, Queres, Tiguas, etc. 
 
 How long the Pueblos had dwelt in New Mexico prior 
 to Spanish occupation is as much a matter of mystery to 
 us of to-day as it was to Coronado, three and a half cen- 
 turies ago. Their origin, even their kinship, has baffled 
 research. History disowns them. They are essentially 
 unlike the roving Indians of the plains, and it is denied 
 that they are Aztecs. They possess a tradition of having 
 come from the north, fighting inch by inch against the 
 
6G 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 southward invasion of a fierce foe, until at last they came 
 to these plateaus and built permanent fortress homes. 
 This tradition, if authentic, offers explanation of the mys- 
 terious cliff dwellings which, like swallows' nests, mark the 
 faces of canon walls for hundreds of miles in southern 
 
 Utah and Colorado and 
 northern Arizona and 
 New Mexico. In any 
 event, when the Span- 
 iards came the Pueblos 
 had local ruins which 
 themselves were the 
 subject of traditions 
 centuries old. 
 
 The soldier and the 
 priest marched side by 
 side in the old days of 
 Spanish conquest, and 
 simultaneously with the 
 occupation of New Mex- 
 ico mission churches of 
 thejesuitand San Fran- 
 ciscan orders arose. 
 Colonists from Mexico 
 followed in the wake of 
 the soldiery, and the 
 first white settlement 
 was made at San Gab- 
 riel, on the Chama 
 River, in 1598. Seven years later the present city of Santa 
 Fe was founded. Upon its site a native capital is reputed 
 to have been already in existence, and the visitor to Santa 
 Fe is shown the house where Coronado is believed to have 
 lodged in 1540. The Pueblos at first welcomed the Span- 
 
 
 PUEBLO WOMEN. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 67 
 
 iards in the effusive manner of world-ignorant aborigines, 
 but they ultimately grew discontented with Castilian 
 oppression, and after a few small outbreaks united under 
 the leadership of Po-Pe, in 1680, and drove every Spaniard 
 whom they did not kill out of the Territory, burning and 
 sacking the missions and destroying every reminder of the 
 white men. After a struggle of twelve years to regain 
 the lost province, the Spaniards reconquered under leader- 
 ship of General Diego de Vargas. The colonization of 
 New Mexico was then once more begun, and its develop- 
 ment continued without serious interruption. 
 
 Early in our century Santa Fe became commercially 
 significant, and was connected by wagon route with the 
 Missouri River, and also with Los Angeles, in California. 
 In 1837, after Mexico had become independent of Spain, 
 this Territory revolted against unjust methods of govern- 
 ment and taxation, but failed to achieve independence. 
 It was occupied in 1847 by General Kearney and the Army 
 of the West, for the United States, to which that portion 
 west of the Rio Grande was ceded a year later. The eastern 
 portion came by the Texas cession of 1850. Congress 
 subsequently, at different times, rearranged its bounds 
 and extent, which formerly embraced Arizona and a por- 
 tion of Nevada and Colorado. 
 
 Several engagements between Federal and Confederate 
 forces, during the Civil War, took place within the Terri- 
 tory, and up to a comparatively recent date the soldiers of 
 the frontier army were kept busy pursuing Apaches with 
 varying success. 
 
 Descriptive. — The Territory has an average breadth of 
 335 miles, and its length from north to south is, upon the 
 east 345, and upon the west 390 miles. Its area of 122,444 
 square miles is larger than that of Great Britain and Ire- 
 land. It is composed of vast upland plains of exceeding fer- 
 
68 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tility, where rainfall is sufficient or irrigation is practiced, 
 broken by innumerable alluvial valleys, and of mesas, foot- 
 hills, spurs, and, finally, the lofty ranges of the Rocky 
 Mountain chain, many of whose peaks attain an altitude 
 of raore than 12,000 feet. The Raton Range, trending 
 eastward, is crossed by the pass. The Sangre de Cristo, 
 Taos, and Costillo ranges lie contiguous or adjacent to 
 our route. The Oscuro, San Andreas, and Organ mount- 
 ains are farther to the south. The mean altitude of the 
 entire Territory is nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, and 
 that of the northern plains themselves is fully as great, 
 the lower portions of New Mexico lying upon the south. 
 
 From the Raton Tunnel to the bottom of the pass the 
 distance is nearly ten miles. Then the Great Plains begin 
 to open before the view. The route makes southwest- 
 wardly toward the middle of the Territory, at Watrous 
 entering the fair green expanse, sixty-odd miles square, 
 to which the Spaniards gave the name Las Vegas, The 
 Meadows^ near whose side, midway, stands the old city of 
 the same name. 
 
 Then come occasional Mexican villages scattered by 
 the way, quaint communities of adobe huts, the white 
 cross of the humble sanctuary infallibly discernible. 
 These give a novel interest to the ride, as fragments of 
 the purely picturesque. There is something oriental about 
 every Mexican house. It is either built around a square 
 or is a modification of that architectural plan. It is 
 always of adobe — bricks of clay mixed with chopped straw 
 and dried in the sun. The floor is of earth, and the roof 
 as well. If for want of repair the hut wears the appear- 
 ance of a hovel, the fault is not of the structure. It is the 
 house of the country, and, as a rule, is extremely tidy. 
 Adobe is really the best material for walls in a climate 
 like this. It resists heat in summer and cold in winter. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 69 
 
 The Mexicans are courteous, kindly, hospitable, and intel- 
 ligent for their circumstances. Some of their strain rep- 
 resent the most active and prosperous residents of New 
 Mexico, but not such as you see in these wayside villages. 
 These are the reverse of enterprising. You may chance 
 to see them hauling wood in ancient carts with cumbrous 
 wooden wheels. They prefer to till the soil by precisely 
 the same methods practiced by their great-grandfathers 
 before them. Even the primitive plow, consisting of a 
 forked limb and dragged through its perfunctory cere- 
 mony of tick- 
 ling the ground 
 by a thong at- 
 tached to the 
 horns of an ox, 
 may happen to 
 meet your eye. 
 Although the 
 modern meth- 
 ods of a more 
 progressive race 
 are fast taking 
 root about them, 
 the Mexicans are still numerically in the ascendant, and 
 stubbornly cling to the old life of the Spanish peasant, as 
 poor, as happy, and as quaint, here and now, as ever it was 
 at home. 
 
 After these comes another mountain pass, that of the 
 Glorieta, a lovely ride through park slopes to a command- 
 ing height, then a downward whirl on the brink of alluring 
 gorges that are green with pine and fir and rosy with color 
 of rock and earth. Glorieta Pass is on the westward 
 sweep of the railroad from a little beyond Las Vegas to the 
 banks of the Rio Grande del Norte, below Santa Fe. 
 
 NEW MEXICO OVEN. 
 
70 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Reaching the Great River of the North, its course is fol- 
 lowed for many miles. This is a Nile valley, every year 
 inimdated by the mighty stream that is swollen by melting 
 of mountain snows all the way back to its source in Colorado. 
 When the flood comes in spring nothing can stand in its 
 path. The sand-laden volume gnaws and undermines and 
 rolls huge bowlders away like balls in its rush. The earth, 
 too, is of a character easy to wash, a finely pulverized adobe. 
 Among the notches of the hills waterspouts and the shed of 
 heavy rains cut deep arroyos into the seemingly bottomless 
 soil. You will observe many places where heavy rocks are 
 heaped in between rows of sturdy piles, the only adequate 
 protection against this formidable excavating force, which, 
 in this territory and along this very railroad, has, in times 
 past, repeatedly undone labor representing a cost of many 
 hundred thousand dollars. 
 
 Immediately upon passing Albuquerque, having crossed 
 the Rio Grande, a type of country is encountered differ- 
 ent from any previously seen. The land of desert and 
 volcano is fairly entered. It should not prove dreary, nor 
 even monotonous, for in addition to its unaccustomed 
 natural and human interest it is full of vivid color. 
 Black and white illustrations do not convey the whole 
 charm of the western country. You could as adequately 
 represent the beauties of a brilliant water-color sketch by 
 a steel engraving. The sky of Italy is not more intense 
 than this marvelous flaming arch of blue. Sand and rock 
 are warm with tints of red and brown or cinder black. 
 Mesa and mountain on the horizon wear the hue of indigo 
 in shadow. The after-shine of a sunset is yellow fire. 
 There is no " atmosphere." You can not judge, with even 
 approximate correctness, the distance of a fairly remote 
 object. Two miles or ten miles distant are the same to the 
 eye, as if the laws of optics had been unaccountably 
 modified to increase the powers of vision. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 71 
 
 The most famous of the inhabited pueblos of New 
 Mexico lie adjacent to the road through this region, 
 two of them, Isleta and Laguna, close beside the track. 
 Acoma, the most poetic habitation in the world, is a dozen 
 miles to the south, and Zuni is likewise to one side, farther 
 on. All are easily accessible to a Caucasian, and will 
 richly compensate the delay involved in visiting them. 
 
 Ancient rivers of lava here parallel the way for long 
 distances. The flow oozed from fissures in the plain, as 
 
 t\ VV,' H^^-- 
 
 PUEBLO OF LAGUNA, NEW MEXICO. 
 
 well as from the towering craters whose slopes sweep 
 upward to ragged rims against the sky. 
 
 Shortly before reaching the Arizona line the Conti- 
 nental Divide is crossed, and the rivers begin to flow 
 toward the west and the sunset sea. 
 
 Climate. — It is no exaggeration to say that here the 
 sun shines nearly every day. There is a fairly well-defined 
 rainy season, extending from the middle of June to the 
 middle of September, but the aggregate annual precipita- 
 
72 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tion averages only 13.61 inches. The showery afternoons 
 of that period are usually x^receded by bright mornings, 
 and during the remainder of the year the sky is unspotted 
 by a cloud for weeks at a time. But it is not a land of dis- 
 tressful heat, as one might infer. It has a summer climate 
 whose equability of comfort has no superior in the Union. 
 To understand this it is necessary to bear in mind the 
 important factors of pronounced altitude and low 
 humidity. Altitude is everywhere a proportional equiva- 
 lent for latitude, and the climatic effect 
 , of the altitude of New Mexico is to give 
 
 it the same temperature that would pre- 
 vail at sea level just seven 
 degrees farther north — upon 
 the New England coast, fo^^ 
 example, other con- 
 ditions remaining un- 
 changed. Low hu- 
 midity, however, op- 
 erates as an element 
 of still further amel- 
 ioration. Humidity 
 is the amount of in- 
 visible moisture in 
 the air, as distin- 
 guished from rain and 
 
 YOUTH, SUNSHINE, AND LEISURE. f^g 'jy'^Q pCrCCntagC 
 
 of humidity here is exceedingly low, that of Santa Fe, 
 whose altitude is 7,019 feet, being 48.8 per cent, and that of 
 lower and more arid regions diminishing to 29 per cent. 
 For comparison in this interesting particular the humidity 
 of the following localities outside of New Mexico is given: 
 Boston, 69 per cent; New York, 72 per cent; Buffalo, 
 73 per cent; Detroit, 71 per cent; New Orleans, 79 per 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 73 
 
 cent; San Diego, 71 per cent; Los Angeles, 68 per cent; 
 San Francisco, 76 per cent; Olympia, 79 per cent. The 
 effect of humidity is to accentuate bodily sensibility 
 to heat and cold, the common discomforts of summer and 
 winter being- due to this quite as much as to the degree of 
 temperature registered by the thermometer. This is 
 strikingly illustrated in New Mexico. The direct rays of 
 the sun in midsummer are really fervent, but their effect 
 
 ■■^ir^ 
 
 ^»7 — -=o- — ~ 
 
 ..jL._- 
 
 -II. 
 
 . i_^ i 
 
 PRIMITIVE INDUSTRY. 
 
 is not cumulative, and, by reason of the low percentage of 
 humidity, is literally not to be feared. Violent exercise 
 in the sun is not attended by noticeable perspiration, nor 
 by any added discomfort, save only that which may 
 be due to unwonted altitude. The shade is invariably cool. 
 The case has no parallel in the IMiddle, Eastern, or South 
 Atlantic States. It follows that nights are cold in winter, 
 and in summer entirely free from oppressiveness. Resi- 
 
74 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 dents of New Mexico wear the same variety of clothing 
 the year round, and always sleep under blankets, although 
 there are but few days when persons in delicate health 
 may not freely venture abroad. The following weather 
 statistics of Santa Fe may be taken as approximately 
 representative of the northern half of the Territory at high 
 altitude. The lower altitude and latitude of the southern 
 half would naturally result in somewhat higher tempera- 
 tures: 
 
 U. S. Department of Agriculture — "Weather Bureau. 
 
 OFFICE OF THE STATE WEATHER SERVICE, SANTA FE, N. M. 
 
 Summary of Weather for Ten Years, 1882 to 1891, inclusive. 
 
 Months. 
 
 January ... 
 February .. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September. 
 October ... 
 November . 
 December . 
 
 Sums. 
 
 Means 49.2 60.5 
 
 27.4 
 33-8 
 417 
 47.6 
 
 55-9 
 64.8 
 70.0 
 67.6 
 61 .0 
 
 50.9 
 38.6 
 
 32.4 
 
 590 7 
 
 la 
 
 5 <u 
 
 a 
 
 
 OJ I Oj 
 
 728.6 
 
 17.2 
 23.6 
 29 6 
 35 6 
 43 
 52 
 
 455-1 
 
 38.0 48. 
 
 60.8 
 57-0 
 48.3 
 42.7 
 39-4 
 36.0 
 46.4 
 49.2 
 50-4 
 45-6 
 50.9 
 59-2 
 
 585-9 
 
 0.55 
 0.83 
 0.66 
 0.88 
 1 .03 
 0.83 
 1.58 
 2.18 
 
 1-57 
 0.81 
 0.76 
 1.03 
 
 12.71 
 
 T. o 
 
 bfld) 
 
 0.7 
 7-5 
 7.6 
 
 8.3 
 7.8 
 7.0 
 6.6 
 6.2 
 
 5-9 
 6.4 
 6.7 
 6.6 
 
 83-3 
 
 .C 0) 
 
 Q.C o 
 
 O C 
 
 6 c =« 
 
 -^ C o 
 0) 03 c 
 
 oi o ?5 
 
 I 06 6.9 7.1 16. 1 
 
 85 
 
 o 
 
 14 
 24 
 
 II 
 
 17 
 
 22 
 
 18 
 19 
 
 193 
 
 o 
 
 16 
 17 
 
 138 
 
 II. 5 4.0 
 
 
 I certify that the above is a correct summary of the records of this 
 
 station for the years stated. 
 
 H. A. Hersey, 
 
 Observer Weather Bureau. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 75 
 
 By virtue of the climatic conditions thus briefly noted, 
 New Mexico has won wide recognition in recent years as 
 a sanitarium for sufferers from catarrhal and pulmonary 
 affections. It is the center of a region of similar char- 
 acter which extends northward 'into western Kansas and 
 central Colorado, westward through upper Arizona, and 
 southward into Mexico, with many gradations of adapta- 
 bility to different stages and complications of disease. 
 Numerous sanitariums have been established in the Ter- 
 ritory at different altitudes, and in environments espe- 
 cially suited to the requirements of particular classes of 
 consumptive patients, who are scattered all the way from 
 Colorado to Mexico. Many of the present active business 
 men of New Mexico came here years ago with no better 
 hope than to experience a speedy euthanasia, which is a 
 word by which physicians disguise a painless but inevit- 
 able death. It appears to be an indubitable fact that in 
 climate lies the only hope of the consumptive, and that 
 here, provided he' does not too long delay his coming, the 
 progress of the fell disease may be effectually arrested, 
 and in many cases the disease itself practically cured. 
 
 Industrial. — Old as it is in the historical sense. New 
 Mexico is very youthful so far as concerns development 
 of its resources. In spite of its totally inadequate rain- 
 fall, the agricultural possibilities of its plains are very 
 great, and the valley of the Rio Grande alone should in 
 time become one of the most fruitful valleys in the world. 
 The primary difflculty has been the necessity of irriga- 
 tion. Enough water runs to waste in the season of flooded 
 streams to water the whole Territory many times over, 
 but capital is required to utilize it except in a relatively 
 insignificant way. The small farms of the Mexicans are 
 located convenient to natural water supply, and individual 
 enterprise has created a large number of other small 
 
76 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 farms, which arc exceedingly profitable, but the large 
 areas have lain unused, except for grazing, save where 
 conjoint capital has supplied the need, and these cases 
 have been few in comparison with the extent of the 
 opportunity. From tirrie to time new enterprises are 
 inaugurated for the construction of dams to check and 
 store the water of the streams and to ditch the neighbor- 
 ing lands, and their number will undoubtedly increase 
 year by year, for the reward is great. Another embarrass- 
 ment operating to the retardation of agriculture has been 
 that the most available land was principally held in large 
 tracts under the old Spanish grant system, which got itself 
 into such a state of confusion that what Americans and 
 American law consider good titles could not be given to 
 purchasers. The land court appointed by Congress will 
 shortly relieve this embarrassment. The court is now 
 engaged in the work of adjudicating disputed titles. Be- 
 sides the lands included in the doubtful grants there are 
 some sixty millions of Government lands unhampered by 
 grant or adverse claim of any kind, but the limit of avail- 
 able water supply and topographical considerations proba- 
 bly will permit only a fraction of this ever to be cultivated. 
 Hand in hand with the scantiness of its rainfall goes a 
 very small number of water courses of magnitude in New 
 Mexico. When these shall have been fully economized it 
 is regarded as unlikely that more than two million acres 
 will be practically irrigable. But 2,000,000 acres of such 
 soil as this under cultivation will mean a great deal in 
 establishing this vast territory upon an ample foundation. 
 At present it consumes more produce than it raises, and 
 the business of farming is attended with unusual profit as 
 a consequence. All the vegetables, grains, and fruits of 
 the north temperate zone, omitting only the citrous vari- 
 eties (oranges, lemons, and the like), and such as are 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 77 
 
 peculiar to regions that neighbor the tropics, are grown in 
 perfection. Insect and parasitic pests are said to be 
 unknown. 
 
 New Mexico is rich in gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, 
 zinc, anthracite and bituminous coal, and in garnets, 
 agates, amethysts, and turquoise. The annual product of 
 gold has reached $500,000, of silver $3,300,000, and of coal 
 675,000 tons. The vast areas of pine and cedar timber in 
 the mountains lie almost untouched. Two million horned 
 cattle, 2,500,000 sheep and goats, and 200,000 horses and 
 mules are owned in the Territory. 
 
 Phenomenally rich in resource, it offers extraordinary 
 opportunities to capital and individual settlers. 
 
 Irrigation. — Old as is the practice of irrigation, and 
 common as it is throughout the West, a few words under 
 that head will not come amiss to the average traveler to 
 whom arid regions are new. 
 
 The idea is apparently as old as history. At least it was 
 known to the ancient Egyptians, to whom it may have 
 been suggested naturally by the beneficent periodical inun- 
 dations of the Nile, as doubtless to other nations in a like 
 manner, for where prior to such inundation it was impos- 
 sible to profitably till the parched earth abundant crops 
 followed the overflow. It was practiced by the prehis- 
 toric peoples of New Mexico and Arizona, as evidenced 
 by existing ruins of irrigating systems, and the Spaniards 
 were wise of it and applied their knowledge generally in 
 colonizing America. 
 
 In the simplest form it consists in flooding the entire 
 surface of the ground with water at frequent intervals, 
 thus artificially making substitution for rain. But the 
 common method of irrigating crops is to let the water 
 into collateral trenches, which are dug sufficiently near 
 together to permit the flowing water to " seep " through 
 
78 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the intervening space of earth. In orchards a shallow 
 serpentine furrow, winding along a row of trees, passing 
 one upon the right and another upon the left, is a suffi- 
 cient conduit. An irrigating ditch is termed in Spanish 
 an aceqitia^ and the main ditch, by which the entire vol- 
 ume is conveyed from point to point for distribution, is 
 the acequia inadre^ or parent ditch. In some localities the 
 volume is transmitted through enormous flumes, sup- 
 ported on trestle work to conquer topographical diffi- 
 culties. Again it is sometimes conveyed through pipes, 
 along the upper side of a tract, with cocks at frequent 
 intervals, and the farmer turns the cock and directs the 
 rivulet as he may choose, with a few strokes of spade or 
 hoe. 
 
 The turbid waters of New Mexico do more than 
 moisten; their burden of sediment is a distinct fertilizer, 
 like that of the Nile flood. Sandy and apparently worth- 
 less tracts are thus converted into most prolific gardens. 
 
 Irrigation makes agriculture an almost exact science, 
 stripped of the hazard of drought or flood, from which 
 the Eastern farmer is never quite secure until his harvest 
 is garnered. Successful agriculture requires a suitable 
 soil, abundant sunshine, and neither too much nor too lit- 
 tle water. Often the first two conditions are present, but 
 the third is wanting. Farming by irrigation in the West 
 combines all three. It matters not whether it is in west- 
 ern Kansas, or Colorado, or New Mexico, or Arizona, or 
 California; it is a logical business, and as certain as any- 
 thing can be in this world. When the crops are thirsty 
 the farmer here does not scan the horizon anxiously for 
 sight of a cloud; he turns on the water. And when that 
 thirst is slaked he is not consumed with the apprehension 
 that the fields will be drowned by superabundance of 
 rain; he turns it off. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 79 
 
 The cost of irrigation per acre is ordinarily rated at 
 $2.50 per annum. One dollar and fifty cents of this sum 
 is the charge made for delivering the water by the com- 
 pany or community that supplies it and keeps the canal in 
 repair, and the remaining $i.oo is the value of the labor 
 involved in actually applying the water to the land. 
 
 PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Lynn, Hillside. 
 
 Ratou. — Chicago, 1,134 miles; St. Louis, 994 miles; Los Angeles, 
 1,131 miles; San Diego, 1,214 miles; San Francisco, 1,443 miles. 
 Dining station. Altitude, 6,637 feet. Population, 1,255. 
 
 This town, which is almost exactly midway between 
 Chicago and Los Angeles, is an important center of the 
 cattle industry, and is located on the line of those inex- 
 haustible coal deposits which extend unbroken through 
 this region for 250 miles. Blossburg, a coal-mining town 
 of nearly as many inhabitants as Raton, lies only a short 
 distance west, a branch railroad connecting it with Dillon, 
 three miles below. Raton is the site of extensive railroad 
 machine shops, and the headquarters of the Maxwell 
 Land Grant Company. 
 
 The Maxwell Grant. — What is seen of northernmost 
 New Mexico belongs to this great land grant. For sixty 
 miles 3^our route runs through it, namely, from Starkville 
 on the Colorado side of the Raton Pass, to Springer. 
 Before New Mexico was ceded to the United States two 
 agents of the American Fur Company, Carlos Beaubien 
 and Guadalupe Miranda, obtained the grant, consisting of 
 1,714,765 acres. Precisely what equivalent was rendered 
 does not appear, but the old Spanish rulers had a large- 
 handed way of dealing out parcels of the earth to their 
 favorites, and certainly the land was worth comparatively 
 
80 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 little at the time. Lucien B. Maxwell, a companion guide 
 with Kit Carson on Fremont's expeditions, married the 
 daughter of Beaubien, and ultimately acquired the entire 
 
 property by inheri- 
 tance and by pur- 
 chase, thus becoming 
 the largest individual 
 land-owner in the 
 United States The 
 Spanish title to the 
 grant was subse- 
 quently confirmed by 
 this Government and 
 patent issued. The 
 ownership afterward 
 took the form of a 
 corporation, of which 
 Dutch capitalists now 
 have control. It is 
 a little empire in it- 
 self, its principal set- 
 tlements and activi- 
 ties being some dis- 
 tance removed from 
 the railroad upon the 
 west. Within its lim- 
 its there are Mexican 
 villages and prosper- 
 ous farms owned by 
 Dutch and English ranchmen. It embraces mines of 
 coal, the surface croppings providing the Mexicans with 
 an easily collected fuel, and of gold, silver, and iron, 
 gold placer fields, deposits of fire-clay and cement, 
 quarries of building-stone, and forests of timber. It 
 
 A NEW MEXICAN MATRON. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 81 
 
 has a telephone system of 120 miles. There are single 
 ranches of twenty or thirty thousand acres each, and 
 many modest farms of small acreage occupied by settlers. 
 Its agricultural products may be taken as typical of 
 northern New Mexico. Corn is the poorest average crop 
 among the grains. Wheat, oats, and barley yield very 
 heavily, and the kernels are of extraordinary weight; 
 35, 45, and 60 bushels per acre respectively are the 
 average crops of these grains; 400 bushels of potatoes are 
 raised to the acre; onions weighing 4 pounds, and cab- 
 bages 45 pounds, are common. Thousands of barrels 
 of the best quality of apples, and large quantities of cher- 
 ries, plums, peaches, pears, strawberries, currants, goose- 
 berries, raspberries, and blackberries are regularly 
 shipped. Alfalfa is the principal hay crop. The grazing 
 lands sustain innumerable sheep and vast herds of cattle. 
 Irrigation is practiced, the water being taken chiefly from 
 the head of the Cimarron and Vermejo rivers. 
 
 Among the foot-hills and their canons are cinnamon 
 bear and mountain lions, and clear streams thronged with 
 trout; and in the broad and beautiful parks on the mesas 
 above are white-tail and mule deer, grouse, and wild 
 turkeys. The ranchmen and their Mexican employes are 
 iisually enthusiastic hunters, and are particularly fond of 
 riding to hounds on the hot trail of the bear. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Dillon, Otero, Hebron, Dor- 
 sey. 
 
 Maxwell City. — Chicago, 1,160 miles; St. Louis, 1,020 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 1,105 miles; San Diego, i;i88 miles; San Francisco, 
 1,417 miles. Altitude, 5,900 feet. 
 
 Created for the convenience of the business of the 
 
 Maxwell Grant. The intersecting water course is the 
 
 Vermejo. 
 
 
82 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The old Mexican town of Cimarron, on the Cimarron 
 River, lies at a distance of twenty miles on the west, this 
 side the mountains, which are farther distant than they 
 appear to the eye. Until a few years ago Cimarron was 
 a rendezvous of cowboys and fugitive desperadoes, and 
 the scene of numerous deeds of violence. One of its con- 
 spicuous landmarks is the burial-ground of men who died 
 with their boots on, some in personal altercation, some by 
 murder, some by verdict of outraged citizens acting on 
 behalf of law and order. But that epoch has forever 
 gone by for all the Southwest. The railroad was a species 
 of Augean broom, sweeping ever along in its westward 
 advance the most turbulent of lawless spirits, who found 
 upon the border a greater toleration of their unrestraint 
 than elsewhere. Their era was short. What has become 
 of them as a class it would be hard to say. Such burial- 
 grounds as that above mentioned accounts for some few; 
 the rest have disappeared. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Dover. 
 
 Springer. — Chicago, 1,174 miles; St. Louis, 1,034 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,091 miles; San Diego, 1,174 miles; San Francisco, 1,403 
 miles. Altitude, 5,783 feet. Population, 600. 
 
 Another Maxwell Grant town, exactly midway between 
 Chicago and San Diego. A large irrigating system, with 
 many miles of ditch in operation, exists upon the east, of 
 which glimpses may be seen after leaving the station. A 
 hydraulic cement, equal to the famous Portland variety, is 
 manufactured here. The stream is the Cimarron, which 
 joins the Canadian and flows eastward across Texas, 
 Oklahoma, and the Indian Territory to join the Arkansas. 
 
 The pueblo of Taos lies about fifty miles west. It is 
 more conveniently reached from the farther side, and the 
 visit to Taos is customarily made northward from Santa 
 Fe, by way of the Santa Fe Southern Railway. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 83 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Rayado, Colmor, Nolan, Levy. 
 Wagon Mound. — Altitude, 6,193 feet. 
 
 Formerly the seat of a Mexican frontier custom house, 
 and its queer-shaped mountain, which may be seen from 
 the train, was a landmark visible for many miles to travel- 
 ers over the wearying and perilous old Santa Fe Trail. 
 It is a small village of about 500 inhabitants. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Tipton, Shoemaker. 
 
 Watrous. — Altitude, 6,413 feet. 
 
 Here begin the broad mountain-hemmed meadows to 
 which the name Las Vegas is due. Fort Union, with a 
 garrison, lies upon the right a short distance away. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Kroenig's, Onava, Azul. 
 
 Las Vegas. — Chicago, 1,244 miles; St. Louis, 1,104 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 1,021 miles; San Diego, 1,104 miles; San Francisco, 1,333 
 miles. Dining station. Junction with branch line to Las Vegas 
 Hot Springs. Altitude, 6,399 feet. Population, 5,273. 
 
 This is the second city of New Mexico in population 
 and commercial importance. It is one of the largest wool- 
 shipping points in the United States, and in addition to 
 this staple its mercantile houses handle a general business 
 of large volume for an immense tributary and dependent 
 country. It is a railroad division point, and a large num- 
 ber of men are employed in repair shops, freight yards, 
 and tie-treating works. Wool-washing works, a brewery, 
 and a steam flour-mill contribute to its industrial activ- 
 ity. Las Vegas contains the State asylum for the insane. 
 
 It is widely known as a health resort for consumptive 
 patients, many of whom find here the precise conditions 
 suitable to their needs. It stands on treeless meadows, 
 underlaid by blue limestone and red and white sandstone. 
 It is watered by the slender Rio Gallinas, which is Span- 
 
84 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 ish for Turkey River. Las Vegas is exactly half way 
 between St. Louis and San Diego. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Romero, Sulzbacher, Bernal, 
 Blanchard, San Miguel, Sands, Fulton. 
 
 STARVATION PEAK. 
 
 Starvation Peak. — There is a symmetrical, flat-topped 
 mountain visible from numerous points along a distance 
 of many miles, but most nearly to be seen from the neigh- 
 borhood of Bernal, twenty miles below Las Vegas. This is 
 Starvation Peak. Two or three gigantic crosses upon the 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 85 
 
 summit give an air of solemnity to the bleak mass which 
 is quite in keeping with the tale of dole which forms one 
 of its traditions. Its early name was Bernal Peak, 
 derived, like the name of the little village at its foot, from 
 that of the first settler in the vicinity. It is said that 
 about the end of the first quarter of our century the terri- 
 tory was generally involved in warfare with the Comanche 
 and Navajo Indians, and the town of Bernal was attacked 
 by the Navajoes. After a short siege the principal men of 
 the town accepted an invitation to a council without arms, 
 and were treacherously slain. The remainder of the set- 
 tlers then fled toward the mountain, and about twenty of the 
 number succeeded in reaching the summit. There they 
 were secure from attack, but were besieged by the Indians 
 below until they all died of starvation. Their bones were 
 afterward collected by friendly hands and given burial, and 
 the crosses were erected and maintained in their memory. 
 Thus runs one legend. The other maintains that the 
 crosses were originally erected by the Brotherhood of 
 Penitentes, and when their devotion flagged, some twen- 
 ty-five years ago, a mysterious hermit appeared and made 
 his home on the peak, engrossed in prayers and in exhor- 
 tations to his numerous visitors to renew the former pious 
 demonstrations. The crosses, which had fallen down, 
 were replaced, and the penitential ceremonies received a 
 new but short-lived impetus from the exhortations of the 
 hermit. 
 
 The first version is the more romantic, but the second 
 is perhaps the more plausible account, although it should 
 be added that the Indians can not be persuaded to go upon 
 the summit of Starvation Peak, presumably on account of 
 a superstition grounded upon the tradition of some tragic 
 occurrence. Still further confusion results from the exist- 
 ence of the ruins of stone fortifications on the summit, 
 
86 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 regarding which there is no discoverable definite legend. 
 The oldest settlers do not pretend to know very much 
 about the matter. 
 
 Penitentes. — The Spanish name of this order, which 
 seems to have originated in Europe several centuries ago, is 
 Los Hermanos Penitentes (the Penitent Brotherhood), com- 
 monly abbreviated to Penitentes. It has many members 
 among the Mexicans of New Mexico and southern Colorado. 
 
 Upon initiation of a member his back is cut deeply 
 with a sharp piece of flint or obsidian. The incisions are 
 given a symbolic meaning, and their number depends 
 upon the enthusiasm of the novice. If he asks to be given 
 *' the five wounds of Christ," or " the ten commandments," 
 or "the forty days in the wilderness," he is scoriated just 
 so many times with the flint. The wounds are cut open 
 afresh each year thereafter to increase the pain of the 
 flagellations which are practiced. The scourging, or " dis- 
 cipline," consists of belaboring the bare back with a cruel 
 whip, often made of cactus or soap-weed, and generally is 
 performed by the penitent himself. It is no perfunctory 
 ceremony, but a severe flogging, repeated for a self-im- 
 posed number of times, lacerating the flesh and drawing 
 blood at every blow. One of the commoner demonstra- 
 tions is a processional of such self-torturers. On other 
 occasions the Penitentes stagger under the burden of 
 heavy crosses, which they bear for long distances and to 
 the point of exhaustion. The crosses are often twenty 
 feet long and eight or ten inches square, weighing from 
 200 to 800 pounds. Sometimes only the upper part of 
 the cross rests upon the shoulders, and the long upright 
 is allowed to drag heavily on the ground. In other 
 instances the entire weight bears on the shoulders and 
 extended arms, each hand resting lightly upon the handle 
 of a sword, the point pressing against the side of the poor 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 87 
 
 zealot, whose arms can hardly support their load, yet can 
 not relax without plunging one or both swords into his body. 
 
 These tortures, inflicted "for the love of God," are 
 varied in many ways, all revolting; and the climax is 
 reached in a veritable crucifixion, when men suffer them- 
 selves to be bound and, formerly, even nailed upon a cross 
 and suspended for half an hour in an agony which not 
 infrequently has proven fatal. Modern public sentiment 
 has practically done away with the worst realism of this 
 horrible rite, but not a few Penitentes are said to be still 
 living in New Mexico who bear in their palms the marks 
 of the crucifying spike. 
 
 The Catholic church, within whose pale they belong, 
 has vainly tried to suppress the fanatic ceremonies of this 
 extraordinary order, although they are slowly yielding to 
 the sentiment of a more rational age. The Penitentes 
 dislike publicity, and in their flagellations are accustomed 
 to conceal their identity from any chance stranger by 
 wearing hoods of black cloth. Their demonstrations 
 begin with Lent and culminate on Good Friday; then 
 they subside into unobtrusiveness as ordinary individuals 
 for the remainder of the year. 
 
 Rowe. — Chicago, i,2go miles; St. Louis, 1,150 miles; Los An- 
 geles, 975 miles; San Diego, 1,058 miles; San Francisco, 1,287 miles. 
 Altitude, 6,821 feet. Population, 315. 
 
 Attention is called to this station, half-way between 
 Chicago and San Francisco, as being a convenient point 
 of departure for the Pecos Ruin and the upper Pecos 
 River, description of which follows. 
 
 The Pecos Ruin. — Fifty miles below Las Vegas, on the 
 rise to the pass of the Glorieta Mountain, there is visible 
 upon the right, at a distance of several miles, an open 
 valley in whose center stands a gaunt brown ruin. This 
 
88 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 ruin is plainly to be seen from the train at several points 
 on either side of the station Pecos, although it too nearly 
 resembles the earth in color to catch a careless eye. It is 
 what is left of one of the first missions founded in New 
 Mexico, approximately three and a half centuries old, and 
 about it are strewn the ruins of an ancient Indian pueblo 
 whose greater age may hardly be guessed. Not impos- 
 sibl}^ it was inhabited many centuries before the Spaniards 
 came. The church ruin only is distinguishable from the 
 train, and is not impressive in that view, but seen at close 
 range it is augustly imposing. It is most conveniently 
 reached by a drive of four miles from Rowe, a station 
 five miles north of Pecos, and viewed nearly it possesses 
 the valley — a lonely, slow-dying thing, weighted with 
 tragic and mysterious memory. Upon a natural fortress- 
 like elevation a few acres in extent, and rock-walled upon 
 three sides, the razed pueblo lies scattered, an almost 
 unintelligible heap of stones, with here and there a bit or 
 an angle of wall standing. Upon the fourth side stand 
 the dismantled adobe walls of the church. Every porta- 
 ble thing of particular value to the antiquarian or the 
 merely curious has been carried away long ago, except 
 scattered arrow-heads of flint and obsidian, a handful of 
 which may still be picked up from the surface of the 
 rock-strewn slopes in an hour's search. 
 
 The Pecos Church is supposed to have been built by 
 the Friars about the year 1540, or simultaneously with 
 Coronado's conquest, in accordance with their custom of 
 locating their missions in the villages of the natives. In 
 the Pueblo rebellion of 1680 it was partially burned and 
 completely sacked, save for the oddly-carved beams and 
 other crude architectural ornaments, which have since 
 been stripped from the edifice. The number of arrow- 
 heads still obtainable, after so many have been carried 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 89 
 
 away, is sufficient evidence that this was often the scene 
 of savage warfare. The course of old irrigating ditches 
 is still discernible, and the plain which now supports only 
 a few stray cattle and burros must once have maintained 
 many hundreds of these agricultural people. 
 
 The Pecos tribe, reduced by some ill-starred fate to a 
 mere handful, quitted this place half a century ago to 
 dwell at Jemez, near 
 the Rio Grande, west 
 of Santa Fe. 
 
 Inquiry in this re- 
 gion easily elicits re- 
 puted traditions of 
 the Pecos Pueblo, for 
 there are aged Mexi- 
 cans who apparently 
 never in all their lives 
 have been outside of 
 this immediate local- 
 ity; but it may be 
 doubted if they arc 
 genuine derivations; 
 they sound more like 
 myths that have been 
 falsely imputed. For 
 example, such is the 
 story that the Pecos -=--^=- 
 
 T J • • i • ^1. i. A GREAT-GREAT-GRANDDAUGHTER OF CASTILE. 
 
 Indians mam tarn that 
 
 here Montezuma last reviewed his army before ascending 
 into heaven, promising one day to return, and that so long 
 as the tribe dwelt here a vestal flame was kept burning 
 upon the altar in expectation of his coming. There is 
 no good reason to believe that Montezuma is a god of the 
 Pueblos. In any event the Montezuma myth is incoherent 
 
90 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and elusive, if indeed it has anything of genuine Pueblo 
 tradition about it, and it is cited here merely as an example 
 of local legend relating to a people regarding whom about 
 as much is actually known, concerning their past history 
 and present inner life, as of the ancient Egyptians, or any 
 other wholly problematical people that may be named. 
 
 The Pecos River and National Park. — Far in the 
 mountains upon the north the Pecos River rises, and flows 
 southward through the reservation of the Pecos Pueblo, 
 crossing the railroad just east of Rowe, and continuing 
 southeastward to a junction with the Rio Grande in 
 Texas. It becomes a large and important river during 
 its course, but here is only a mountain stream, although 
 much larger than any yet encountered in the Territory. 
 Its uppermost portion is included in a large tract which 
 has been set aside for a national park, whose lower 
 bounds reach almost to the ruin. The park is a wildly 
 beautiful country of forest, and meadow, and mountain, 
 said to abound in game. The river swarms with trout. 
 The wordpccos^ apparently corrupt Spanish for " freckles " 
 (pecas), has been thought to be an allusion to the multi- 
 tude of the speckled denizens of the stream, in the same 
 manner that the word blanquillos (little white things) is 
 used instead of huevos (eggs) in the Mexican vernacular. 
 As far down as the vicinity of the pueblo, the fishing is of 
 the very best. While the trout do not attain the large 
 size boasted by eastern lakes and the more famous Col- 
 orado streams, they rarely weigh less than half a pound, 
 and two-pounders are occasionally captured. They take 
 the fly freely. The Pecos is shallow enough for continu- 
 ous wading, except for occasional pools, and broad enough 
 to give full play to the skill of the fly-fisherman. It is, 
 moreover, a water-course of exceptional beauty, a succes- 
 sion of rapids, falls, and whirlpools through exquisite bits 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 91 
 
 of woodland and meadow, and occasional gorges with per- 
 pendicular rock walls, whose splendors of form and color 
 can hardly be exaggerated. 
 
 It is unfortunate that the average tourist is dependent 
 upon what he can see from the car window for most of his 
 impressions of New Mexico, as of Arizona. Let him, at 
 least, remember that the conditions which commonly 
 determine the precise route of railroad construction are 
 cheapness and directness. Unavoidable obstacles do 
 indeed arise, and then the railroad is forced through 
 scenes of mountain beauty, such, for example, as this 
 very ride over the Glorieta Range. But far grander 
 scenes lie on every hand, avoided because their grandeur 
 is made up of material that is decidedly adverse to rail- 
 road building. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Pecos. 
 
 Glorieta Pass.— Ahitude, 7,453 feet. 
 
 Glorieta means a summer-house, a bower; and its appli- 
 cation here is probably no more than an allusion to the 
 gentle verdured beauty of the scene. Here the forest is 
 again encountered on the main line, for the first time since 
 leaving the Raton Pass, 150 miles back. The whole 
 length of the pass is nearly thirty miles, and is a natural 
 park which art could hardly improve. Away to the north 
 the mountains lie piled, the fragrant pines thickly set 
 between. There are cuts through the rock, and deep 
 water-hewn gorges. The air is cool, even in midsummer. 
 Twenty feet below the summit, upon the eastern slope, is 
 the little town of Glorieta. The western end of the pass 
 is Apache Canon, a savage notch where the mountain 
 gives grudging passage. It must have been an admirable 
 point for an ambuscade, from the Apache's point of view, 
 and the name is unpleasantly suggestive of tragic doings, 
 
92 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 
 
 although trivial circumstances often determine the names 
 of romantic spots. Distinct historical associations of a 
 different kind, however, exist here. A battle took place 
 on this ground in 1847, between Kearney's Army of the 
 West and the Mexicans, and here in 1862 the Federal and 
 Confederate forces met in conflict. 
 
 At the farther end of this canon, near the track, a mis- 
 sionary priest named Lamy, afterward archbishop of Santa 
 F6, once taught the Indians in a little adobe school-house. 
 
 The Glorieta Mountain is the real water-shed of this 
 region, and its western slope descends to the Rio Grande 
 Valley. Thus it happens that the Pecos, taking rise very 
 near the Rio Grande, wanders for hundreds of miles 
 before finding a way to join that great stream. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Canoncito. 
 
 Lamy. — Chicago, 1,309 miles; St. Louis, 1,169 miles; Los Angeles, 
 956 miles; San Diego, 1,039 miles; San Francisco, 1,268 miles. 
 Dming station. Junction with branch line to Santa Fe. Altitude, 
 6,475 feet. 
 
 The distance to Santa Fe is eighteen miles. The 
 holder of a round-trip California ticket by the Santa Fe 
 Route can obtain a side ride from Lamy to Santa Fe and 
 return, without extra payment, upon application to the 
 ticket agent at Lamy 
 
 Santa Fe. — Chicago, 1,327 miles; St. Louis, 1,187 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 974 miles; San Diego, 1,057 miles; San Francisco, 1,286 
 miles. Junction with Santa Fe Southern Railway. Altitude, 7,019 
 feet. Railroad station, 6,954 feet. Population, 6,185. 
 
 The approach to the New Mexican capital is another 
 ascent. It lies twenty miles from the Rio Grande, in the 
 middle of a high plain rimmed by mountain peaks which, 
 during many months of the year, are tipped with snow, 
 although the climate of Santa Fe is characterized by extra- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 93 
 
 ordinary gentleness and equability. Its claim to being 
 the oldest city in the United States (St. Augustine, its 
 only contestant, dating from 1595) rests upon the discov- 
 ery of a native village upon the same site by Coronado in 
 1540. This is perhaps not altogether an unreasonable 
 claim, although it may be argued that in a world so old as 
 ours, with the ashes of forgotten civilizations scattered 
 everywhere beneath our feet, it will not do to rake over too 
 much of antique dust in search of our beginnings. In any 
 
 STREET SCENE, SANTA FE. 
 
 event the Spanish city was actually founded in 1605, 
 although some say 1598. Its population is about equallj^ 
 divided between Mexican and Saxon. 
 
 The older part of the town is typically Mexican, com- 
 posed of little squat adobe houses irregularly strung along 
 the sides of narrow streets. It is unwearyingly picturesque. 
 Old men and old women sit placidly in the black shadows 
 by the roadside, as if lounging were the only authentic 
 business of life and they its hearty exemplars. Occasion- 
 
94 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 ally a woman issues from one of the houses to go a-visit- 
 ing, her head and shoulders muffled in the black, fringed 
 shawl which they call tapelo; or a dog barks; or a swarthy 
 huckster appears aimlessly following the vagaries of a 
 burro loaded to a small steeple-height with fire-wood or 
 latticed boxes filled with garden-truck. Otherwise noth- 
 „__ inR appears to be do- 
 
 ing. One suspects 
 the problem of life is 
 solved here on the 
 old philosophic plan 
 of requiring but little 
 to subsist upon, and 
 falls to wondering 
 how the houses, prim- 
 itive as they are, ever 
 got themselves built. 
 A seventh-day inac- 
 tivity prevails. It is 
 a city asleep, or mum- 
 mified, rather, pre- 
 served almost un- 
 changed for centuries 
 by its gift of repose. 
 It seems to be always 
 drowsy noon, bathed 
 in the brilliant sun- 
 light which has no 
 
 SAN MIGUEL CHURCH, SANTA FE. 
 
 peer outside New Mexico. This sunlight is necessary to 
 old Santa Fe. One can not conceive it in a land of fog and 
 cloudy weather. The brown adobe walls gleam almost 
 golden above their sharply-cut shadows. Here and there 
 is a high-walled inclosure with ponderous gate of solid 
 wood, through whose aperture may be had a glimpse of 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 95 
 
 the brilliant green of dense foliage and the vivid variega- 
 ted colors of flowers. These seem to declare the existence 
 of a happy domestic life behind the adobe. 
 
 In the center of the cluster stands the Church of San 
 Miguel, upon the street that bears its name. Built soon 
 after the Spanish occupation, it was partly demolished by 
 the natives in 1680, rehabilitated in 17 10, and since further 
 repaired into a resumption of its original appearance. It 
 contains a very ancient copper bell, formerly in the tur- 
 ret, in which the date 1350 is cast. 
 
 Almost in the shadow of the church stands, among 
 other houses, the one in which Coronado is believed to 
 have lodged. This old house, until a year or two back, 
 possessed the unusual distinction of a second story, now 
 removed. It is inhabited by a Mexican family, and visitors 
 are welcome to enter and leave what reckoning they deem 
 proper after satisfying their curiosity. 
 
 Modern Santa Fe stands on the other side of the little 
 dividing river, although much that is characteristically 
 Mexican is mingled with it. The lower part of San Fran- 
 cisco Street is almost wholly lined by adobe structures, 
 and its throng is a motley composition of Indians, Mexi- 
 cans, and brisk business men of a different extraction. 
 This was the scene of the transition period, of whose high 
 romance chapters might be written if space permitted. 
 The old Mexican town of prodigious mercantile impor- 
 tance as a receiving and distributing point was sapped by 
 the diversion of traffic which naturally followed from 
 railroad construction through the Territory. The exu- 
 berance of that era, when it was a central depot for over- 
 land caravans and stages, no longer pertains to Santa Fe, 
 although it is an active and growing city. 
 
 At the side of the plaza stands the Palace, as old as 
 Santa Fe itself, in which has been the home and office of 
 
90 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 every Governor of New Mexico since the first viceroy. 
 Before the rebellion of 1680 the Holy Inquisition, Santo 
 Oficio^ held its functions there, and in the plaza in front of 
 its placid walls many a Pueblo Indian has been executed. 
 In the first decade of this century Lieut. Zebulon M. Pike, 
 the explorer, was brought into its executive chamber to 
 give an account of himself to Spanish authority, neither 
 party dreaming that the United States would so soon pre- 
 side there. At least, if Pike dreamed it he was very dis- 
 creet, and after being detained for some months by a form 
 of hospitality which was understood on both sides to be 
 captivity courteously disguised, he w^as allowed to depart. 
 A portion of the palace is now occupied by the collec- 
 tions of the historical society, which include innumerable 
 archaeological and historical treasures. 
 
 The Rosario Chapel, erected by Diego de Vargas, in 
 pious gratitude for his victory over the Pueblos, is another 
 antiquity. It stands upon an eminence nearly a mile 
 from the heart of the city, where Vargas first looked 
 down, with his little army, upon the town from which his 
 countrymen had been repulsed for twelve years. By its 
 side is the modern Ramona Indian school. 
 
 The Cathedral of San Francisco and the churches of 
 Our Lady of Guadalupe and Our Lady of Light contain 
 ancient paintings and wood-carvings, and the Territorial 
 Library possesses the old Spanish records. 
 
 The penitentiary and Fort Marcy are other Govern- 
 ment institutions located at Santa Fe. 
 
 Besides the Ramona school, the St. Catherine school and 
 Dawes Institute are educational institutions for Indians. 
 
 Santa Fe Cailon, Monument Rock (on the border of the 
 Pecos National Park), and the pueblos of Tesuque and 
 Nambe are near objects of interest. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Galisteo, Ortiz. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 97 
 
 Los Cerrillos. — Eighteen miles beyond Lamy. 
 
 This is the location of large mines of both anthracite 
 and bituminous coal. There are valuable gold mines in 
 the vicinity, one of which, the Lincoln Lucky, shipped 
 200 car-loads of ore in 1892. There are also copper and 
 turquoise mines. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Waldo, Rosario. 
 
 Wallace. — Chicago, 1,340 miles; St. Louis, 1,200 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 925 miles; San Diego, 1,008 miles; San Francisco, 1,237 
 miles. Altitude, 5,263 feet. Population, 124. 
 
 The pueblo of San Domingo lies at a distance of two 
 or three miles on the other side of the Galisteo River, and 
 can very conveniently be reached from this station, 
 although it is usually included among the sights of the 
 vicinity of Santa Fe. 
 
 San Domingo does not, however, rank high among the 
 pueblos as an object of interest. The greater pueblos lie 
 farther on along our route. The yearly feasts and rites of 
 these strange people are, nevertheless, of great interest, 
 regardless of the relative imimportance of the pueblo, and 
 upon such occasions many New Mexicans flock together 
 from immediately neighboring towns to witness the spec- 
 tacle. 
 
 At Wallace the Galisteo joins the Rio Grande, and you 
 fairly enter the great valley, whose course is followed as 
 far as Albuquerque. 
 
 Mexican villages are plentifully strewn by the way. 
 The life of the inhabitants of these villages is very simple 
 and placidly happy. It goes on undisturbed by any of the 
 changes that occur in what we call the world. There are 
 births, and weddings, and deaths; that is the summary 
 of exciting events. There are no lawyers or doctors, 
 nor any politics. The only scholar is the priest. They 
 7 
 
98 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 have no theories; they try no experiments; and they 
 often live to a very old age. But they are not barbarians. 
 They possess an easy courtesy, a perfect understanding of 
 even the statelier forms of politeness that is an inherit- 
 ance with them, an integral part of the Spanish blood 
 which, to a greater or less degree, flows in their veins. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Elota, Algodones, Bernalillo, 
 Alameda. 
 
 Albuquerque.— Chicago, 1,377 miles; St. Louis, 1,237 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 888 miles; San Diego, 971 miles; San Francisco, 1,200 
 miles. Junction with Atlantic & Pacific Railroad. Altitude, 4,950 
 feet. Population, 5,518. 
 
 Metropolis of the upper Rio Grande Valley. Here, as at 
 Sante Fe, there are two towns. In the old town, which lies 
 a mile and a half from the new, there is a population of over 
 1,700. It contains an ancient cathedral and many interest- 
 ing relics of old Spanish and Mexican days. The new- 
 town is only a dozen years old, having been founded in 
 1880. 
 
 Albuquerque lies in a lovely part of the valley, midway 
 between the sightly Sandia Mountains on the east and a 
 volcanic range on the west. Its neighboring attractions 
 are the Coyote Mineral Springs, several small Mexican 
 communities, and the pueblo of Isleta, besides numerous 
 resorts in the mountains, all reached by enjoyable drives 
 over excellent roads. There are many orchards and vine- 
 yards. It is an active business center, its immediate com- 
 mercial sway extending over an area larger than New 
 England. Besides the railroad machine-shops, there are 
 two foundries, three flouring mills, a brewery, and an ice 
 factory employing half a thousand men, and a score of 
 smaller concerns engaged in manufacture. 
 
 Among its public institutions are included the Univer- 
 sity of New Mexico, a Government Indian school, a 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 99 
 
 Methodist college, the Southwestern Academy of the 
 New West Education Commission, and St. Vincent's 
 (Catholic) Academy. It has four large public school 
 buildings, eleven churches, a free public library, and a 
 commercial club. 
 
 Isleta. — Altitude 4,898 feet. 
 
 This pueblo lies a short distance north of A. & P. 
 Junction, in plain view from the train. By necessity of 
 train schedules, the through California passenger com- 
 monly passes it in the obscurity of the night. It is a fair 
 sight, a huge rectangular terraced pile gleaming white in 
 the sun, the peaks of numerous rough ladders showing in 
 sharp relief. If the train were to pass in the day-time a 
 few comely Indian maidens and a shriveled squaw or two 
 would be on hand at the stopping-place to offer wares for 
 sale, but otherwise the Pueblo Indian does not appear to 
 pay much attention to the presence of the Caucasian. 
 Doubtless he has his quiet joke, and a confident sense of 
 superiority, but he is not curious. Of the outer world he 
 knows little. He is mildly but exclusively engrossed in 
 his own affairs. The daily presence of that disturbing 
 factor, the railroad, does not affect the profound inertia of 
 his type. 
 
 There are some twenty inhabited Pueblo villages in 
 New Mexico, all in the northwestern division, with an 
 aggregate population of about 8,000, comprising five 
 tribal stocks, each of which possesses a distinct language: 
 Queres, Tiguas, Tehuas, Zunis, and Jemez. The Moqui 
 villages are in Arizona. Up to the time of the Spanish 
 conquest the Pueblo Indians were in the habit of occa- 
 sionally changing their abode, and there are in New 
 Mexico the ruins of hundreds of stone pueblos so aban- 
 doned. The Spaniards allotted them reservations of land 
 
100 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 surrounding the sites upon which they were found, which 
 were subsequently confirmed by the United States Govern- 
 ment, and by that act they were permanently fixed in that 
 place. 
 
 Isleta is Tigua. Its reservation contains a little more 
 than 110,000 acres, and agriculture and fruit raising are 
 very profitably followed by this community, which in a 
 single year manufactures a thousand barrels of wine and 
 sells thousands of dollars' worth of fruits. Pottery is pur- 
 chased from the people of smaller pueblos, and blankets 
 from the Navajoes, experience having taught these thrifty 
 Tiguas that their own time can be more profitably 
 employed in tilling the soil. The largest business con- 
 trolled by any woman in New Mexico is here managed by 
 an Indian woman of Isleta. 
 
 The Pueblo Indians are generally well-to-do, and many 
 are possessed of considerable wealth. The costumes of 
 the women are often quite costly. 
 
 Atlantic & Pacific Junction.— Chicago, 1,390 miles; St. 
 Louis, 1,250 miles; Los Angeles, 875 miles; San Diego, 958 miles; 
 San Francisco, 1,187 miles. Altitude, 4,891 feet. 
 
 Point of divergence via the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, 
 from the line which continues on down the Rio Grande 
 Valley to El Paso, whence the Mexican Central proceeds 
 to the City of Mexico. A few miles north of El Paso, at 
 Rincon, the Santa Fe Route branches off again and con- 
 tinues through Deming, Benson, and Nogales to Guaymas, 
 on the coast of the Gulf of California, in Sonora, Mexico. 
 
 Atlantic & Pacific Junction is the actual point of 
 divergence, but Albuquerque is the nominal point, where 
 connection of trains is made. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Luna, Rio Puerco, San Jose, 
 El Rito. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 101 
 
 Lag-una.— Chicago, 1,443 miles; St. Louis, 1,303 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 822 miles; San Diego, 905 miles; San Francisco, 1,134 
 miles. Altitude, 5,786 feet. Population (Indian), 1,140. 
 
 The youngest of the pueblos, originally recruited from 
 Acoma, Zuni, Zia, and Cochiti, in 1699. The train runs 
 directly past it, affording a most excellent opportunity to 
 the traveler of seeing one of these picturesque village 
 habitations at close range. 
 
 It is perched upon a sterile hill, in a compact cluster. 
 This form of habitation, it should be remembered, is not 
 a freak of fancy, but the 
 outcome of the needs of 
 an harassed but far from 
 timid people. It is a fort- 
 ress, and the entrance by 
 way of a ladder to the roof ^f/ffp\{i 
 was a part of the defensive , ' W 'J 
 plan. From time imme- 
 morial the Pueblo Indians 
 have been surrounded by 
 enemies — Apaches, Nava- 
 joes, and the like — all no- 
 mads and robbers by na- 
 ture. The Indians of the 
 pueblos were very much unlike their foes; they were not 
 predatory; they tilled the soil; they provided thriftily 
 against future needs; and in consequence they always 
 had something in their possession to tempt the cupidity 
 of the Bedouin wanderers of mountain and plain. Such 
 possessions they could not afford to abandon, and they 
 were too brave to surrender them; hence the evolution of 
 the terraced house. 
 
 These people work some arable watered land near by, 
 and the children are usually out on the plain tending 
 
 SITTING IN THE SUN. 
 
103 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 sheep. Little black-eyed, cotton-clad urchins may be 
 seen among the rocks upon either side of the pueblo, and 
 very modest comely maidens occasionally come down to 
 the train to avail of an opportunity to make profitable 
 disposition of pottery odds and ends. The traveler may 
 thus procure a memento which, as such, is fairly worth its 
 price; but as a specimen of the Indian's ornamental art in 
 pottery it is usually quite inferior. 
 
 Cubero. — Six miles beyond Laguna. Altitude, 5,924 feet. Pop- 
 ulation, 418. Point of departure for Acoma pueblo. 
 
 AcoMA. — Pueblos are much alike in structure and gen- 
 eral appearance. Their individual interest is derived from 
 natural environment and historical or legendary associa- 
 tion. It is by virtue of both these distinctions that Acoma 
 has become known to fame as the most poetic of all the 
 pueblos, if not of all human habitations on this continent. 
 The most practicable way of access is by wagon from 
 Cubero, the distance being thirteen miles, although it is 
 possible to go from Laguna or McCarty's. The first view 
 of the valley of Acoma is from the summit of a divide 
 which breaks suddenly down to its level. It is a scene of 
 extraordinary, almost unearthly, beauty; a long, broad, 
 steep-walled basin, carpeted with grass and green with 
 growing crops, in autumn flaming with yellow blossom- 
 ing thickets, and bordered by cliffs and quaintly eroded 
 columns, buttes, and obelisks of red, yellow, green, and 
 brown sandstone, the shadows of the towering peak of 
 Los Pelones, above the horizon, marked in violet and 
 amethystine hues. 
 
 In the midst stands the rock-flanked mesa which is sur- 
 mounted by the pueblo of Acoma, a monolith that rises 
 350 feet above the floor of the valley, with a fairly level 
 top at least a hundred acres in extent. The steep cliff 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 103 
 
 sides of the mesa guard the pueblo more effectually than 
 would cannon or an intrenched army. Numerous trails, 
 feasible for a tribe of Indians that for imnumbered centu- 
 ries has been bred to daily familiarity with such vertigi- 
 nous passages, scale the rock, but only three may be safely 
 attempted by a white man. One of these, constructed in 
 recent years, is practicable for horses; that is to say 
 Western horses. The other two are arduous enough to 
 tax the address and endurance of the average mountaineer. 
 
 The inhabitants of Acoma are of the tribe of Queres. 
 The pueblo is not a single structure, but is built upon 
 three parallel streets running north and south, the houses, 
 except in one instance, fronting the east. They are con- 
 nected, and present the appearance of long terraces of 
 three gigantic stone steps, the second and third stories 
 being commonly reached by way of a ladder and the 
 intervening roofs, although there are now occasional 
 doors in the lowermost story. Partition walls project at 
 intervals of twelve or fifteen feet. Brightly decorated 
 tinajas^ or water- jars, are placed aesthetically here and 
 there upon the roofs, and the chimneys are of pottery. 
 Everybody is cleanly clad in white cotton and a blanket 
 of gaudy hue, with leggings and moccasins, and a brilliant 
 turban bound about the hair. All Indians are adepts in 
 sign-language, and among the Queres a conventional code 
 of signs, conveyed by the peculiar disposition of the knot 
 of the turban, is in vogue. 
 
 Three milea down the valley from Acoma stands a mag- 
 nificent lone rock, nearly twice its height. This is the Mesa 
 Encantada, or Haunted Mesa. Many centuries ago, accord- 
 ing to the Queres tradition, they dwelt upon that summit, 
 to which a single trail of prodigious difficulty gave access. 
 The entire face of the cliff which gave this solitary foot- 
 ing was undermined by an inundation, and fell upon the 
 
104 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 plain one day when every inhabitant except three old 
 women was at work in the fields below. The mesa was 
 rendered absolutely unscalable by the falling of the cliff, 
 and those unfortunates perished of starvation within 
 hearing of the lamentations of their kindred. After that 
 catastrophe the present site was built upon, and in time 
 the old table-rock came to be regarded as encantada^ 
 haunted by the spirits of the three ill-fated women. 
 
 It was the present pueblo that the Spaniards discovered 
 in 1539, and even then the story of Mesa Encantada was a 
 
 AN UNPROGRESSIVE GRANGER. 
 
 very ancient legend. The Queres did not get on well with 
 their Castilian conquerors. They were at first disposed to 
 treat them as belonging to a supernatural order of beings, 
 but that illusion soon passed. A party of soldiers was 
 decoyed upon the mesa and massacred, and Lieutenant de 
 Zaldivar was sent by Onate to administer punishment. 
 In single file some fifty of those astonishing soldiers of 
 Spain clambered upon the mesa and fought hand to hand 
 for three days with the Queres, and conquered them. 
 That was in January, 1599. At the time of the memorable 
 uprising, August, 1680, a Franciscan church had long been 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 105 
 
 established at Acoma. The Pueblo tribes are by nature 
 a religious people. Everything has to them some religious 
 meaning or mystical association, even their gambling 
 being preceded by an invocation. But the fact that mis- 
 sionaries were not spared in the general massacre of Span- 
 iards indicates that their adoption of the Catholic faith was 
 only superficial. The church was rebuilt nearly two hun- 
 dred years ago, and is an immense structure, with walls 60 
 feet high and 7 feet thick. It has timbers 40 feet long 
 and more than a foot square, which, together with every- 
 thing else in Acoma, was brought on the backs of the 
 Queres up the trails from the plain below, at cost of 
 incredible labor lasting through many years. The reser- 
 vation contains nearly 96,000 acres. 
 
 Lava Beds. — For several miles in this region, lava 
 beds lie on either hand, like the flow of a river. The 
 craters are all extinct long since, although the eruptions 
 frequently present the appearance of comparatively recent 
 occurrence. The cinder cones near Flagstaff, in Arizona, 
 wear a strikingly fresh look, some of those symmetrical 
 black ash-heaps being almost bare of tree or twig, but it is 
 in the very crater summits of such cones that the cave- 
 dwellings are found, and they are admittedly prehistoric. 
 Yet you will sink to your ankles in volcanic sand and 
 gravel-cinder in climbing the slopes. Doubtless centuries 
 have elapsed since this lava stream oozed from a fissure 
 in the plain, and since the neighboring mountain-craters, 
 which you may see from the car window, fired the sky 
 with their glow. 
 
 San Mateo Mountains. — Northward from Grant's, a 
 station thirty miles beyond Laguna. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: McCarty's, Grant's, Blue- 
 water, Chaves, Mitchell, Summit. 
 
106 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Coolidge. — Chicago, 1,513 miles; St. Louis, 1,373 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 752 miles; San Diego, 835 miles; San Francisco, 1,064 miles. 
 Altitude, 6,996 feet. Dining station. 
 
 Continental Divide. Henceforward the rivers flow 
 toward the west. 
 
 For several miles, on the north side of the track, is to 
 be seen a line of red and gray palisades, the work of water. 
 Here and there the face is marked by a long and narrow 
 streak of white; sometimes there is a coping of green, 
 and occasionally an isolated mass stands out in the plain. 
 
 Wingate. — Ten miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 6,736 feet. 
 Point of departure for Zuni pueblo. 
 
 Fort Wingate, with a garrison of soldiers, lies within 
 sight, three miles distant upon the south. Close beside it 
 stands the curious cathedral-shaped rock upon which the 
 name " Navajo Church " has been bestowed, in recogni- 
 tion of its suggestive appearance. 
 
 The pueblo of Zuiii lies about forty miles south from 
 Wingate. The reservation contains more than 215,000 
 acres. The pueblo is a five-story bee-hive, in pyramidal 
 form, with clustering detached blocks. 
 
 The Zunis number nearly 600. This is the tribe that 
 was brought into especial prominence by Mr. Frank Cush- 
 ing, who, as agent of the Smithsonian Institution, dwelt a 
 long time among them, and upon one occasion conducted 
 a number of their chief men on a tour of the Eastern 
 cities, where they attracted no little attention, and doubt- 
 less since their return have been regarded as unconscion- 
 able liars, because of attempting to pass off stories of the 
 white man's astonishing civilization as true. 
 
 Like all the Pueblo tribes, the Zuiiis are industrious 
 and courageous. They are rich in folk-lore and fanciful 
 tradition. They sing, dance, and frolic in the intervals of 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 107 
 
 labor. They are complex and ceremonious in religion, 
 and are fond of secret societies. And the moral atmos- 
 phere of their community will bear favorable comparison 
 with almost any community of the same size among the 
 Caucasians. Other pueblos, however, are more cleanly 
 than Zufii. 
 
 Gallup. — Twenty-two miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 6,498 
 feet. 
 
 Location of the coal mines from which the Atlantic & 
 Pacific Railroad draws its supply. 
 Intermediate Station: Defiance. 
 
 Manuelito. — Thirty-eight miles beyond Coolidge. Altitude, 
 6,252 feet. Near the Arizona boundary. 
 
 One who de- 
 sired to visit the 
 cailons of the Rio 
 de Chelly, with 
 their remarkable 
 cliff ruins, the ex- 
 ploration of which 
 has been restricted 
 to casual inspec- 
 tion by Govern- 
 ment employes up 
 to the present time, 
 could make the 
 journey from this 
 point by way of 
 Fort Defiance. It 
 is to be hoped that 
 special facilities will yet be provided to make this trip 
 practicable for tourists. The celebrated portions of the 
 Caiion de Chelly lie at a distance of upward of fifty miles 
 
 A MEXICAN FIREPLACE. 
 
108 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 north from Manuelito, and special arrangements would 
 have to be made in advance by an intending visitor. It 
 is mentioned here, in passing, merely as one of the marvels 
 of this region, of whose existence, not to say whose feat- 
 ures, comparatively few outside of scientific circles are 
 aware. 
 
 ARIZONA. 
 
 Historical. — Here, as in New Mexico, are monuments 
 of an ancient and mysterious people, but the pueblos, and 
 possibly the cliff dwellings, are antedated by ruins of a 
 semi-civilization which waxed and waned many centuries 
 ago. That a multitude long vanished once dwelt in this 
 titanic land is evidenced by the ruins of irrigating canals 
 of enormous extent found in the southern part of the Ter- 
 ritory. They were scientifically constructed by human 
 hands, and utilized for the maintenance of hundreds of 
 thousands of human beings. So much and no more is 
 known. The throngs that populated the valleys have dis- 
 appeared as mysteriously as have the Hittites, who are 
 mentioned as a powerful nation in Holy Writ and in ancient 
 hieroglyphs, but appear to have left no record beyond that 
 casual contemporaneous reference. Casa Grande, also in 
 the southern part, below Phoenix, which was an abandoned 
 shell when the country was first invaded by the Spaniards, 
 is regarded as a former habitation of the people of the 
 Salt and Gila River valleys, and the excavations recently 
 begun there are said to give promise of rich archaeological 
 treasure. 
 
 The antiquities of the northern portion are the cliff 
 dwellings. Scores of these have been found, perched high 
 on the steep walls of canons and on the hill-tops that rise 
 above the level of the broad arid plateaus. The builders 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 109 
 
 of these, too, had vanished before the Spaniards came, 
 only the Moquis, dwelling in their pueblos far to the north, 
 and the wandering- Apaches and Pimas, being left to 
 represent mankind in all this wide land. 
 
 The world is a pretty ancient dust heap, wherever you 
 may choose to stand, and written history is a serial story 
 of which all save the last two or three chapters is missing; 
 but a hiatus exists in Arizona that is not commonly brought 
 so sharply to the sense. The impressive thing is not that 
 it was anciently inhabited, for we have learned something 
 from the mounds of Ohio and elsewhere about the antiq- 
 uity of human life on our continent, but that oblivion 
 should have covered these people like a wave, and for 
 centuries these valleys, and plains, and canons should have 
 remained desolate, where once was an animated multitude 
 — this gives the air of tragic romance. 
 
 The history of Arizona, like its topography, is con- 
 vulsed, rent, gashed, whole volumes missing. It begins 
 intelligibly with Marcos de Nizza, in 1539, for this was the 
 route of the original northward exploration from Mexico. 
 For more than two centuries after the Spanish discovery 
 Arizona was a part of New Mexico, but the portion in- 
 cluded in the present Territory was crossed and recrossed 
 by those tireless world conquerors. The first settlement 
 was made in 1685, in the neighborhood of Tucson. The 
 missionaries then began their work of civilization, and 
 mining and agriculture were undertaken in the face of 
 Apache hostilit}^ The suppression of the missions by 
 Mexico early in our century practically surrendered the 
 country to the Apaches, who promptly annihilated what 
 remained of Spanish enterprise. 
 
 The acquisition of New Mexico by the United States, 
 in 1848, included all of Arizona north of the Gila River; 
 the remainder was purchased from Mexico, in 1853, for 
 
110 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the sum of $10,000,000. The Territory of Arizona was 
 created by Congress in 1863, and its first government was 
 organized at Navajo Springs in December of that year. 
 Shortly thereafter the capital was removed to Whipple 
 Barracks, thence to Prescott, thence to Tucson, again to 
 Prescott, and finally to Phoenix. 
 
 The bane of Arizona has been the Apache. He proved 
 a well-nigh untamable wild man, as fierce and wary as 
 the puma that still dwells in the mountains. He was 
 destruction incarnate and a name of terror. He has at 
 last been subdued and banished within a very few years, 
 and, in consequence, upon this land the sunrise of prosper- 
 ity is just breaking. 
 
 Descriptive. — It is a land of high plains, rich valleys, 
 pine parks, wide terraces, towering mountains, tremendous 
 chasms, burnt-out volcanoes, lava-beds, deserts, painted 
 rocks, mesas and buttes; aglow with color, overhung by an 
 arch of deepest blue, enwrapped by a pure, cool, rarefied 
 air, and encompassed by silence and a sense of immeasur- 
 able vastness. It is a marvel of geological revelation. 
 The unparalleled gashes that rend the earth's crust per- 
 pendicularly more than a mile deep and many hundred 
 miles long, as in the Grand Canon of the Colorado, exhibit 
 the rock series all the way down to the primitive forma- 
 tions. In ancient times that the geologist wots of, it was 
 alternately the bed of salt and fresh water seas of vast 
 extent, and although the sand-blast has carved curious 
 shapes of stone, the mark of water is everywhere. Its 
 erosion is traceable on the cliffs and in the canons, which 
 latter are largely due to its action. It has washed rock 
 strata thousands of feet thick from the surface of thou- 
 sands of square miles, and swept the detritus away to some 
 distant ocean bourne. And as if by way of reprisal, water 
 is now the scarcest commodity known in the greater part 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. Ill 
 
 of Arizona. A living spring is a coveted treasure. A con- 
 stant stream is better than a gold mine, if it can be availed 
 of for irrigation. 
 
 In altitude it ranges from below sea level, on the south, 
 to 13,000 feet above. Its actual dimensions are about 380 
 by 320 miles, embracing 113,020 square miles; the total 
 population of a little more than 60,000 being restricted to 
 small areas separated by wide untouched intervals. These 
 intervals consist of mountain ranges, rich in mineral, of 
 pine parks of magnificent timber, of rich valleys awaiting 
 irrigation, of open tracts too arid for agriculture but valu- 
 able for grazing, and of genuine desert. 
 
 The deserts of Arizona, however, are neither monoto- 
 nous nor lifeless. They are most emphatic in character in 
 the southern portion of the Territory, yet even there 
 picturesque and beautiful plant life is not wanting. The 
 saguaro cactus (Cereiis giganteus) is plentiful there, tower- 
 ing to a height of from thirty to sixty feet. Its diameter, 
 whose maximum is about two feet, is nearly as great at 
 the summit as at the base, and its fluted column, some- 
 times but not always branching, is of a deep green color, 
 and is protected by innumerable stout spines. It is 
 crowned by clusters of showy white flowers, and the fruit 
 is red, containing saccharine and vinous qualities. This 
 saguaro cactus grows, in proximity to water, at the rate 
 of a foot per annum, but in the driest regions only a twelfth 
 as fast. Yet even there it yields, on puncturing, a gener- 
 ous flow of water, somewhat unpalatable, but sufficient to 
 quench the thirst of a needy traveler; and its pulpy part 
 is edible. The echina cactus has a short, thick trunk, 
 surmounted by yellow or crimson flowers. The cucum- 
 ber cactus is fiercely thorny, with large crimson flowers 
 and a fruit which contains an edible seedy pulp of pleasant 
 flavor. The choUa is a variety of branching cactus, with 
 
112 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 
 
 loosely jointed limbs that easily part at the socket. Its 
 thorns will pierce stout leather, and are scrupulously to be 
 avoided. Another variety is the prickly pear, which is 
 the most common cactus throughout the West. Its leaf- 
 like segments grow without any apparent method, one 
 out of another. There is also the fish-hook cactus, whose 
 small spines are hook-shape. The agave, or century 
 
 plant, and the yucca are exceedingly 
 common, and their imposing spikes 
 of large cream-colored flowers are 
 very beautiful. The flower spike of 
 th.Q yucca gloriosa runs up to a height 
 of ten or fifteen feet, and sometimes 
 supports nearly a thousand blossoms. 
 Among the more rare desert growths 
 of Arizona is a lily that blooms about 
 the time of Easter. The flower is 
 white, streaked with pale green. 
 
 Of animals, the Gila 
 Monster is peculiar to 
 Arizona. This is a spe- 
 cies of lizard which at- 
 tains a length of nearly 
 two feet, and presents 
 a most repulsive ap- 
 pearance. It is found 
 only in the south, in the 
 heated valley of the Gila River, and is a subject of dispute 
 in consequence of the alleged venom of its bite. It has 
 been accused of emitting an acrid, poisonous breath when 
 disturbed, and instances are offered which, if authentic, 
 show that the bite of a Gila Monster is more to be feared 
 than that of a rattlesnake. But it is not abundant, even in 
 its habitat, and appears, in any event, to be entirely harm- 
 
 GIANT CACTUS. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 113 
 
 less unless submitted to the indignity of handling-, which 
 its ferocious appearance does not encourage, whether it is 
 venomous or no. 
 
 Our route traverses the upper portion of the Territory, 
 at an elevation between 4,850 and 460 feet. It follows for 
 some distance the Little Colorado River, and passes 
 within easy access of the wonderful "jewel forest" of 
 Chalcedony Park. It passes Winslow, where Moqui 
 Indians often congregate, and crosses Canon Diablo. It 
 leads through Flagstaff, past the 
 foot of San Francisco Mount- ja«^ 
 
 ain, in whose near vicinity are ^^^ff ^^^^ 
 
 the cliff and cave dwellings, and ^^^^ ; 
 north of which stretches the 
 brilliant and terrible Grand 
 Cailon, which ranks as the 
 grandest spectacle known any- 
 where upon earth. It continues 
 on past Bill Williams Mountain, 
 threads the gentle beauties of 
 Johnson's Canon, and, after 
 passing through a number of 
 mining towns, comes to the 
 Colorado River. 
 
 Industrial. — The mining, 
 smelting, and milling of ore constitute the chief industry, 
 although agriculture and fruit raising are rapidly coming 
 to the front. The silver mines have proven of enormous 
 value, and the copper deposits are the richest in the world. 
 
 The lumber industry is active, and is based upon an 
 incalculable supply of timber. The best quality of orna- 
 mental building-stone in the West is produced by the 
 Peachblow sandstone quarries of Arizona. 
 
 There are upwards of 1,000,000 head of cattle in the 
 8 
 
 
 AN EARLY EXPLORER. 
 
114 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Territory, although the growth of that industry in the 
 past few years has been checked by the cost of shipping 
 to distant markets. 
 
 The greatest agricultural and horticultural development 
 has been in the south, where undoubtedly the largest 
 promise lies. The river valleys at low altitudes are almost 
 tropical in character. For the past ten years nearly half a 
 million dollars a year has been expended in constructing 
 irrigating canals in Arizona. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Allantown, Querino Canon, 
 Sanders. 
 
 Navajo Spring's. — Chicago, 1,590 miles; St. Louis, 1,450 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 675 miles; San Diego, 758 miles; San Francisco, 987 
 miles. Altitude, 5,626 feet. 
 
 A short distance from this station the government of 
 the Territory was first organized, in 1863. No settlement 
 was made, the first capital of Arizona consisting of a 
 small tent encampment. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Billings, Carrizo, Aztec. 
 
 Holbrook. — Chicago, 1,630 miles; St. Louis, 1,490 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 635 miles; San Diego, 718 miles; San Francisco, 947 miles. 
 Altitude, 5,072 feet. Population, 206. Point of departure for 
 Chalcedony Park. 
 
 Situated at the junction of the Zuiii and Puerco rivers 
 (not the Rio Puerco of New Mexico, which is on the 
 Atlantic Slope). The confluence of these two streams 
 forms the Little Colorado, which flows northwestward and 
 empties into the Grand Caiion, its own channel at the 
 point of junction possessing nearly the grandeur that 
 characterizes that of the Colorado proper. 
 
 Chalcedony Park. — About twenty miles southeast 
 from Holbrook lies one of those marvels of which it is the 
 characteristic of Arizona to be profuse. Chalcedony Park 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 115 
 
 is a tract some 2,000 acres in extent, whose geological 
 formation is sandstone resting on volcanic ash; and pro- 
 truding from the sandstone, in water-worn basins and 
 gulches, or entirely liberated and scattered over the sur- 
 face, are innumerable petrified trunks of trees and their 
 fragments, varying in size from mere chips and splinters 
 to huge segments ten feet in diameter. It is believed that 
 these trees, which appear to have been a species of pine or 
 cedar, grew upon the shore of an inland sea, and after 
 falling became water-logged, and the cell-structure was 
 replaced by silica. Manganese and oxide of iron yielded a 
 red, yellow, and black coloring matter, and thus the origin 
 of this "jewel forest " is plausibly accounted for. These 
 logs of stone have been curiously fractured, probably by 
 the action of heat and cold, in a clean transverse cleavage, 
 so that they appear exactly as if they had been neatly 
 sawn apart into lengths which, in many instances, form 
 discs only a few inches thick and many feet in diameter. 
 All this vast heap of detritus, although the larger masses 
 are not brilliant in the crude state, is most beautiful when 
 polished, and the term "jewel forest" is hardly a mis- 
 nomer, for every particle — and there are millions of tons 
 — is chalcedony, cornelian, agate, chrysoprase, amethyst, 
 topaz, and the like. In one instance one of these agatized 
 trees, the trunk still intact, spans a canon forty-five feet 
 wide, fully fifty feet overlapping upon one side, and both 
 ends imbedded in the sandstone. 
 
 Conveyance can be procured at Holbrook for the trip 
 to this extraordinary spot. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Putnam, St. Joseph, Hardy. 
 
 Wiiislow\ — Chicago, 1,662 miles; St. Louis, 1,522 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 603 miles; San Diego, 6S6 miles; San Francisco, 915 miles. 
 Altitude, 4,848 feet. Population, 363. Dining station. 
 
 Just before reaching Winslow the course of the Little 
 
IIG 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Colorado is abandoned. Moqui Indians are frequently 
 seen about the station. Their reservation and villages are 
 some seventy miles to the north, and north and east of 
 them lies the reservation of the Navajoes, which overlaps 
 into New Mexico. Within the Navajo Reserve are the 
 rivers San Juan and De Chelly, whose canons and ruins of 
 cliff dwellings are celebrated among scientists throughout 
 the world. 
 
 -^'^^iK- 
 
 SNAKE DANCE, MOQUI RESERVATION. 
 
 Moqui Snake Dance. — The serpent is singularly prom- 
 inent in human history. Its trail stretches past innumera- 
 ble milestones from our own original Eden to the desert 
 villages of the aborigines of Western and Southern 
 America. The Aztecs sculptured the snake upon their 
 ornamental stones, and the Pueblo Indians indent their 
 pottery with an imitation of its scales. But most singular 
 among the tributes to the serpent is the snake dance, an 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 117 
 
 astonishing annual rite formerly common to all the Pueblo 
 tribes, but now practiced by the Moquis alone. For this 
 ceremony, peculiarly abhorrent to any but Indian blood, 
 hundreds of rattlesnakes are captured alive on the desert. 
 This is accomplished in a singular manner by reducing 
 them to a quiescent state by gentle strokes of a wisp, then 
 dextrously depositing them in a leathern bag, where they 
 are accumulated one by one. For three days preceding 
 the snake dance the Indians who intend to participate 
 abstain wholly from food, and partake only of a decoction 
 whose secret is known to but three individuals in the 
 tribe — the chief priest, the neophyte who is in training to 
 succeed him, and the eldest woman. The revelation of 
 the secret of this decoction, which appears to be a verita- 
 ble neutralizer of the venom of a rattlesnake bite, is 
 punishable by death. The snakes that have been collected 
 are kept in a little corral until the hour of the dance, 
 when the participants boldly enter, and seizing a snake 
 recklessly in each hand, and sometimes taking one in 
 their mouths, leap into the ring and begin the barbaric 
 performance of weird chant and uncouth contortion. The 
 snakes swing to and fro, twisting their fat sinister bodies 
 about the arms of their captors, and striking out angrily 
 with their wicked fangs. The dancers are repeatedly 
 bitten, but except that the priest administers another dose 
 of the antidote, no attention is paid to the occurrence. A 
 small local inflammation, and possibly a temporary indis- 
 position after the excitement of the dance is ended, are 
 the only ill effects that result. 
 
 The rattlesnake is one of the animal gods of the 
 Indians, and in their quaint folk-lore occupies a relation 
 to the other animals that suggests Brer Rabbit of Uncle 
 Remus, although mystic magical powers are ascribed to 
 it. The dance is a ceremony to propitiate the snake-god, 
 
118 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 who is believed to be influential in directing earthly- 
 events, and upon the conclusion of the rite all the reptiles 
 are reverently restored to liberty. 
 
 Mr. Keam, the Government agent for the Moquis, states 
 positively that the snakes are neither unfanged nor 
 drugged, nor in any manner deprived of the natural 
 exercise of their venomous function. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Dennison. 
 
 CANON DIABLO. 
 
 Canon Diablo. — Chicago, i,688 miles; St. Louis, 1,548 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 577 miles; San Diego, 660 miles; San Francisco, 889 
 miles. Altitude, 5,421 feet. 
 
 The name is Spanish for Devil Canon. It is simply a 
 hideous gash in the level plain, 540 feet wide and 222 feet 
 deep, extending for many miles. At a little distance it 
 can not be seen at all. If it were closed up the projec- 
 tions on one edge would fit with tolerable accuracy the 
 notches on the other, and it has the appearance of having 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 110 
 
 been caused by a rending of the crust of the earth in 
 cooling. It is crossed over an ingeniously constructed 
 bridge. 
 
 In the Harvard Mineralogical Museum is a meteorite 
 of 150 pounds weight, studded with minute white dia- 
 monds, which was flung by one of Hendrick Hudson's 
 crew somewhere aloft in the Arizona sky and picked up 
 in the bottom of this canon. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Angell, Walnut, Cosnino. 
 
 Mistletoe. — Nearing Flagstaff, some distance beyond 
 the crossing of Canon Diablo, the road runs through a 
 park of small cedars and pinons, where on every hand 
 thick bunches of this pretty parasitic plant cling to the 
 boughs in great profusion. 
 
 Flag"Staff. — Chicago, 1,721 miles; St. Louis, 1,581 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 544 miles; San Diego, 627 miles; San Francisco, 856 miles. 
 Altitude, 6,886 feet. Population, 963. Point of departure for Grand 
 Canon of the Colorado, San Francisco Peaks, cliff and cave dwell- 
 ings, and Oak Creek Canon. 
 
 A United States cavalry corps was encamped on this 
 spot one 4th of July, and in honor of the day the national 
 colors were hoisted to the top of a tall pine tree, which 
 was stripped of its branches and inade to serve as a gigan- 
 tic flagstaff. The old pine, thus amputated, has disap- 
 peared, but the vigorous little town that has sprung up 
 on its site has succeeded to the name. A large aggregate 
 capital is vested in different enterprises here. It is the 
 distributing point for a broad country through which 
 stockmen and miners are scattered. One store alone 
 carries a stock of general merchandise that is valued at 
 over $150,000. It lies in the midst of a beautiful pine 
 park, on whose wide intervals large numbers of sheep and 
 cattle graze. The great saw-mills of the Arizona Lumber 
 & Timber Company are located a mile south of the cen- 
 
120 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 ter of the town. This concern employs about 500 men. 
 The red sandstone of the Flagstaff quarries is classed 
 among" the handsomest and most valuable of building- 
 stones. In the quarry it is soft and easily worked, but on 
 exposure to the air it quickly hardens. Portland, Los 
 Angeles, and Denver have each imported from these 
 quarries stone for the construction of costly public 
 buildings. 
 
 The noble four-peaked mountain behind the town. 
 
 
 ": u%f ^^^s^>*^%;:f^^ 
 
 e^Nsf- \i - ^ 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN, ARIZONA. 
 
 Upon the north, which has been conspicuously in sight for 
 the past hundred miles, is the San Francisco Mountain. 
 
 Flagstaff is the gateway to scenes whose grandeur is 
 impossible of adequate description, and to more sights of 
 novelty and unaccustomed interest than any other town in 
 the world. All these, fragmentarily described in the fol- 
 lowing pages, are easily accessible and should on no ac- 
 count be omitted by the traveler who can spare the time 
 requisite for their examination. 
 
 Grand CaJJon of the Colorado. — The Colorado River, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 121 
 
 sweeping down through southern Utah and across north- 
 ern Arizona, has carved a series of unprecedented chan- 
 nels some four hundred miles long. Midway, in Arizona, 
 occurs a climax 217 miles in length, to which, by way of 
 crowning distinction, the name Grand Canon was given. 
 Its brink is closely neighbored by a growth of pines such 
 as are seen around Flagstaff, and it is as sudden and incon- 
 sequent a chasm as Canon Diablo. But, taking the Diablo 
 Canon as a unit, the Grand Canon is thirty times as deep 
 and one hundred and twenty-five times as wide. It is not, 
 however, a mere notch. It is thronged with hundreds 
 upon hundreds of brilliantly colored mountainous bulks, as 
 tall as yonder San Francisco Mountain, whose peaks rise 
 only to the level of your feet as you stand upon the rim. 
 
 To convey some slight notion of the scene thus out- 
 stretched before the observer, the present writer can do 
 no better than to quote from an attempted description 
 written and published by him after the partial familiarity 
 gained by a week's stay in and around the Grand Canon 
 had made such an undertaking appear possible in part: 
 
 The beholder is at first unimpressed by any detail; he is over- 
 whelmed by the ensemble of a stupendous panorama, a thousand 
 square miles in extent, that lies wholly beneath the eye, as if he 
 stood upon a mountain peak instead of the level brink of a fearful 
 chasm in the plateau whose opposite shore is thirteen miles away. 
 A labyrinth of huge architectural forms, endlessly varied in design, 
 fretted with ornamental devices, festooned with lace-like webs 
 formed of talus from the upper cliffs and painted with every color 
 known to the palette in pure transparent tones of marvelous delicacy. 
 Never was picture more harmonious, never flower more exquisitely 
 beautiful. It flashes instant communication of all that architecture 
 and painting and music for a thousand years have gropingly striven 
 to express. It is the soul of Michael Angelo and of Beethoven. 
 
 A canon, truly, but not after the accepted type. An intricate 
 system of canons, rather, all subordinate to the river channel in the 
 midst, which in its turn is subordinate to the total effect. That 
 
122 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 river channel, the profoundest depth, and actually more than six 
 thousand feet below the point of view, is in seeming a rather insig- 
 nificant trench, attracting the eye more by reason of its somber tone 
 and mysterious suggestion than by any appreciable characteristic of 
 a chasm. It is nearly five miles distant in a straight line, and its 
 uppermost rims are 3,000 feet beneath the observer, whose measur- 
 ing capacity is entirely inadequate to the demand made by such 
 magnitudes. One can not believe the distance to be more than a 
 mile as the crow flies, before descending the wall or attempting some 
 other form of inch-worm measurement. Mere brain knowledge 
 counts for little against the illusion under which the organ of vision 
 is doomed here to labor. That red cliff upon your right, fading 
 through brown, yellow, and gray, to white at the top, is taller than 
 the Washington Monument. The Auditorium in Chicago would not 
 cover one-half its perpendicular span. Yet it does not greatly 
 impress you. You idly toss a pebble toward it, and are surprised 
 that your aim fell short. Subsequently you learn that the cliff is a 
 good half-mile distant. If you care for an abiding sense of its true 
 proportions, go over to the trail that begins beside its summit and 
 clamber down to its base and back. You will return some hours 
 later, and with a decided respect for a small Grand Canon cliff. 
 Relatively it is insignificant; in that sense your first estimate was 
 correct. Were Vulcan to cast it bodily into the chasm directly 
 beneath your feet, it would pass for a bowlder, if indeed it were dis- 
 coverable to the unaided eye. Yet the immediate chasm itself is 
 only the first step of a long terrace that leads down to the innermost 
 gorge and the river. Roll a heavy stone to the rim and let it go. It 
 falls sheer the height of a church or an Eiffel Tower, according to 
 your position, and explodes like a bomb on a projecting ledge. If, 
 happily, any considerable fragments remain, they bound onward like 
 elastic balls, leaping in wild parabola from point to point, snapping 
 trees like straws, bursting, crashing, thundering down until they 
 make a last plunge over the brink of a void, and then there comes 
 languidly up the cliff-sides a faint, distant roar, and your bowlder 
 that had withstood the buffets of centuries lies scattered as wide as 
 Wycliffe's ashes, although the final fragment has lodged only a little 
 way, so to speak, below the rim. Such performances are frequently 
 given in these amphitheaters without human aid, by the mere under- 
 mining of the rain, or perhaps it is here that Sisyphus rehearses his 
 unending task. Often in the silence of night a tremendous fragment 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 123 
 
 may be heard crashing from terrace to terrace like shocks of thunder- 
 peal. 
 
 The spectacle is so symmetrical, and so completely excludes the 
 outside world and its accustomed standards, it is with difficulty one 
 can acquire any notion of its immensity. Were it half as deep, half 
 as broad, it would be no less bewildering, so utterly does it baffle 
 human grasp. Something may be gleaned from the account given by 
 geologists. What is known to them as the Grand Caiion District lies 
 
 'j; .0'>, 
 
 vV\l.' 
 
 .•, ,.-,N^M 
 
 
 ■'m%i.^^,,^su 
 
 ^2/ -'J 
 
 
 A COWBOY. 
 
 principally in northwestern Arizona, its length from northwest to 
 southeast, in a straight line, being about i8o miles, its width 125 
 miles, and its total area some 15,000 square miles. Its northerly 
 beginning, at the high plateaus in Southern Utah, is a series of ter- 
 races, many miles broad, dropping like a stairway step by step to 
 successively lower geological formations, until in Arizona the plat- 
 form is reached which borders the real chasm and extends southerly 
 beyond far into the central part of that Territory. It is the theory 
 
124 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of geologists that 10,000 feet of strata have been swept by erosion 
 from the surface of this entire platform, whose present uppermost 
 formation is the carboniferous; the deduction being based upon the 
 fact that the missing permian, mesozoic, and tertiary formations, 
 which belong above this carboniferous in the series, are found in 
 their place at the beginning of the northern terraces referred to. 
 The theory is fortified by many evidences supplied by examination 
 of the district, where, more than anywhere else, mother earth has 
 laid bare the secrets of her girlhood. The climax in this extraordi- 
 nary example of erosion is, of course, the chasm of the Grand Canon 
 proper, which, were the missing strata restored to the adjacent 
 plateau, would be 16,000 feet deep. The layman is apt to stigmatize 
 such an assertion as a vagary of theorists, and until the argument 
 has been heard it does seem incredible that water should have carved 
 such a trough in solid rock. Briefly, the whole region appears to 
 have been repeatedly lifted and submerged, both under the ocean 
 and under a fresh-water sea, and during the period of the last 
 upheaval the river cut its gorge. Existing as the drainage system 
 of a vast territory, it had the right of way, and as the plateau delib- 
 erately rose before the pressure of the internal forces, slowly, as 
 grind the mills of the gods, through a period not to be measured by 
 years, the river kept its bed worn down to the level of erosion; sawed 
 its channel free, as the saw cuts the log that is thrust against it. 
 Tributaries, traceable now only by dry lateral gorges, and the 
 gradual but no less effective process of weathering did the rest. 
 Beginning on the plateau level on the canon's brink, the order of 
 the rock formations above the river, according to Captain Button, is 
 as follows : 
 
 1. Cherty limestone, 240 feet. 
 
 2. Upper Aubrey limestone, 320 feet. 
 
 3. Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 feet. 
 
 4. Lower Aubrey sandstone, 950 feet. 
 
 5. Upper red wall sandstone, 400 feet. 
 
 6. Red wall limestone, 1,500 feet. 
 
 7. Lower carboniferous sandstone, 550 feet. 
 
 8. Quartzite base of carboniferous, 180 feet. 
 
 9. Archaean. 
 
 The total vertical depth is more than a mile. 
 
 Of the descent to the river, down the canon wall: 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 125 
 
 For the first two miles the trail is a sort of Jacob's ladder, zigzag- 
 ging at an unrelenting pitch down a steep and nearly uniform decline 
 caused by a sliding geological fault and centuries of frost and rain. 
 It is safe and practicable for pack animals and for sound pedestrians, 
 ladies having occasionally made the descent; but at present it necessi- 
 tates too hurried a scramble in places to attempt it confidently on 
 muleback. At the end of two miles a comparatively gentle slope is 
 reached, known as the First Level, some 2,500 feet below the rim; 
 that is to say — for such figures have to be impressed objectively upon 
 the mind — five times the height of St, Peter's, the Pyramid of 
 Cheops, or the Strasburg Cathedral; eight times the height of the 
 Bartholdi Statue of Liberty; eleven times the height of Bunker Hill 
 Monument. Looking back from this level the huge picturesque 
 towers that border the rim shrink to pigmies and seem to crown a 
 perpendicular wall, unattainably far in the sky. Yet only one-half 
 the perpendicular descent, and less than one-third the entire distance 
 of the trail to the river, have been accomplished. For more than three 
 miles now riding on horse or muleback is entirely practicable. 
 Hance's Rock Cabin lies only a short distance ahead, where dinner 
 and rest are to be had under the shade of cottonwoods by the side of a 
 living spring. Farther on, the trail continues down a widening 
 gorge plentifully set with shrubs and spangled, in season, with the 
 bloom of the yucca, prickly pear, primrose, marigold, and a score of 
 unfamiliar showy flowers, white, blue, red, and yellow, surprisingly 
 fresh and vigorous, above a dry, red, stony soil. Soon the course of a 
 clear rivulet is reached, whose windings are followed to the end. The 
 red wall limestone gives place to dark brown sandstone, whose per- 
 fectly horizontal strata rapidly rise above the head to prove the rate 
 of descent along the apparently gentle decline. Overshadowed by 
 this sandstone of chocolate hue the way grows gloomy and foreboding, 
 and the gorge narrows greatly. The traveler stops a moment 
 beneath a slanting cliff 500 feet high, where there is an Indian grave 
 and pottery scattered about. A gigantic niche has been worn in the 
 face of this cavernous cliff, which, in recognition of its fancied 
 Egyptian character, was named the Temple of Sett by the celebrated 
 painter, Thomas Moran. A little beyond this temple it becomes 
 necessary to abandon the animals. The river is still a mile and a 
 half distant. The way now narrows to a mere notch, where two 
 wagons could barely pass, and the granite begins to tower gloomily 
 overhead, for we have dropped below the sandstone and have entered 
 
126 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the archsean — a frowning black rock, streaked, veined, and swirled 
 with vivid red and white, smoothed and polished by the rivulet and 
 beautiful as a mosaic. Obstacles are encountered in the form of 
 steep interposing crags, past which the brook has found a way, but 
 over which the pedestrian must clamber. After these lesser difficul- 
 ties come sheer descents, which at present must be passed by the aid 
 of ropes. The last considerable drop is a forty-foot bit by the side 
 of a pretty cascade, where there are just enough irregularities in the 
 wall to give toe-hold. The narrow cleft becomes exceedingly way- 
 ward in its course, turning abruptly to right and left and working 
 down into twilight depths. It is very still. At every turn one looks to 
 see the embotichure upon the river, anticipating the sudden shock of 
 the unintercepted roar of waters. When at last this is reached, over a 
 final dowmward clamber, the traveler stands upon a sandy rift con- 
 fronted by nearly vertical walls many hundred feet high, at whose 
 base a black torrent pitches in a giddying onward slide that gives him 
 momentarily the sensation of slipping into an abyss. 
 
 Dwarfed by such prodigious mountain shores, that rise immedi- 
 ately from the water at an angle that would deny footing to a mount- 
 ain sheep, it is not easy to estimate confidently the width and 
 volume of the river. Choked by the stubborn granite at this point, 
 its width is probably between two hundred and fifty and three hun- 
 dred feet, its velocity fifteen miles an hour, and its volume and tur- 
 moil equal to the Whirlpool Rapids of Niagara. Its rise in time of 
 heavy rain is rapid and appalling, for the walls shed almost instantly 
 all the water that falls upon them. Drift is lodged in the crevices 
 thirty feet overhead. For only a few hundred yards is the tortuous 
 stream visible, but its effect upon the senses is perhaps the greater 
 for that reason. Issuing as from a mountain-side, it slides with oily 
 smoothness for a space and suddenly breaks into violent waves that 
 comb back against the current and shoot unexpectedly here and 
 there, w^hile the volume sways tide-like from side to .side and long 
 curling breakers form and hold their outline lengthwise of the shore, 
 despite the seemingly irresistible velocity of the water. The river is 
 laden with drift, huge tree-trunks, which it tosses like chips in its 
 terrible play. * * * 
 
 Returning to the spot where the animals were abandoned, camp 
 is made for the night. Next morning the way is retraced. Not the 
 most fervid pictures of a poet's fancy could transcend the glories 
 then revealed in the depths of the canon: inky shadows, pale gild- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 127 
 
 ings of lofty spires, golden splendors of sun beating full on fagades 
 of red and yellow, obscurations of distant peaks by veils of transient 
 shower, glimpses of white towers half -drowned in purple haze, suf- 
 fusions of rosy light blended in reflection from a hundred tinted 
 walls. Caught up to exalted emotional heights the beholder 
 becomes unmindful of fatigue. He mounts on wings. He drives 
 the chariot of the sun. 
 
 Since the foregoing was written the Hance Trail has 
 been greatly improved, and a new trail constructed a little 
 farther w^est, and it is now practicable to cover most of the 
 trip to the river and return on horseback. 
 
 The distance from Flagstaff to the Grand Canon is 
 sixty-five miles. Except in winter a stage runs three 
 times a week, namely, on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
 to the grandest accessible point on the canon rim, which 
 is the point of view in the foregoing description. The 
 entire distance is covered in twelve hours, over an excel- 
 lent and romantic road, and the stage returns to Flagstaff 
 the following morning. There is a dinner camp midway, 
 at Cedar Ranch, and ample accommodations for food and 
 comfortable lodging at the stage terminus on the rim of 
 the caiion, where visitors may remain as long as they 
 desire. 
 
 The office of the Grand Caiion Stage Company is a 
 little building next the railroad depot, by the side of the 
 station platform. 
 
 San Francisco Peaks. — Agassiz, 12,794 feet above the 
 sea, is the highest of the four peaks of San Francisco 
 Mountain, but the only practicable trail for the tourist is 
 the one recently constructed by Mr. A. Doyle of Flagstaff 
 to the pinnacle of Humphrey's Peak, 12,750 feet above 
 sea level. The distance from Flagstaff is about eleven 
 miles, and there is a good carriage-road for seven miles. 
 The remaining distance, to within a few yards of the top- 
 most crag, is accomplished on horseback over a safe trail. 
 
12,S NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The carriage-road leads smoothly through pines and 
 exquisite groves of aspen, and gives place to a bridle-path 
 at the foot of a steep grass-grown slope. From every 
 successive angle of the trail that climbs this slope a wider 
 panorama is imfolded, and objects far out on the plain 
 seem to creep nearer to the mountain's foot. Above the 
 terrace, pines and firs shade the way, and the trail winds 
 along the rim of a gorge where the avalanches of winter 
 have torn tree and root and earth away down to the floor 
 of rock. The timber line is very high, and for only a few 
 hundred feet do the peaks stand bare of vegetation, 
 although the last mile of the trail is taken up in solving 
 the difficulties of this portion of the ascent. There are 
 long doublings to ameliorate the pitch of the slope that 
 sweeps far downward at a very acute angle with the per- 
 pendicular. A short final clamber on foot over crags 
 brings one to the top, a real apex, on which only a small 
 party can find simultaneous footing. 
 
 From this point the entire circle of the horizon can be 
 surveyed for a distance of from eighty to upwards of two 
 hundred miles in every direction. 
 
 To the north, past the edge of Agassiz Peak, lies the 
 Coconino Forest and Basin, and beyond them, fifty miles 
 away, may be seen the farther wall of the Bright Angel 
 Amphitheater, in the Grand Caiion, a dimly glowing 
 splendor of colors; and thirty miles beyond that the Buck- 
 skin Mountains rise above the level of the Kanab 
 Plateau. 
 
 Swinging toward the right, the Navajo Mountains are 
 next seen, 200 miles away, and to the northeast the Navajo 
 Reservation is visible, and the Painted Desert gleams 
 faintly, like a faded rainbow. Next, the Moqui villages, 
 and to the east, past Fremont Peak, lava beds, O'Leary's 
 Peak (to,ooo feet). Sunset Crater, the Little Colorado 
 River, and the plateau and desert for 130 miles. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 129 
 
 To the southeast the White Mountains are seen, 200 
 miles distant. To the south, past Mount Elden, and 
 beyond Flagstaff, Apache Maid Mountain, forty miles; 
 Mormon Mountain and Lake, and a group of nearly a 
 dozen other lakes: Hay, Vail's, Big and Little Horse, Cow, 
 Deep, Long, Dry, Rogue, Ducksnest, etc.; the Mogollon 
 Plateau, Baker's Butte, eighty miles; The Four Peaks, 160 
 miles, and the Superstition Mountains near Phoenix. 
 
 To the southwest, the Verde Valley, the Jerome 
 Smelters, Oak Creek Canon, Squaw Peak, Granite Mount- 
 ains, near Prescott, 100 miles; Bradshaw Mountains, 140 
 miles, and Juniper Mountains, 150 miles. 
 
 To the west, Mounts Kendrick (10,250 feet), Sitgreaves 
 (9,500 feet), and Bill Williams (9,264 feet), and, beyond, a 
 vast countr}^ wanting in determinable landmarks. Turn- 
 ing from this magnificent survey to a study of the mount- 
 ain itself, a half-mile ride along a lower ridge with smooth 
 slopes brings you to the edge of the crater, a deep cavity 
 with rugged, blistered rims, looking much like the photo- 
 graphs of the large craters on the moon. The descent 
 into the crater is arduous, but entirely feasible for both 
 horse and man, the sides being buried deep in volcanic 
 gravel and dust. In the bottom is a small living spring. 
 There is no wall to the crater upon the northern side. 
 There it breaks down into a beautiful canon, thickly grown 
 with evergreen trees and flowering plants, overhung by 
 towering side-cliffs of ruddy color, for this mountain is 
 not, as was long believed, composed entirely of volcanic 
 rock. Looking upward toward the distant rims, they lift 
 uncouth shapes against the sky — bent and twisted forms, 
 with huge orifices, like rude doors and windows, as if they 
 might be the tottering walls of some ancient castle. It is 
 as if you stood in some forgotten corner of a dead world, 
 until again your glance falls to the refreshing green of 
 
130 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tree and fern, and the bright hue of flowers, and you hear 
 the murmur of the tiny rivulet that cheers them here in 
 the midst of desolation. 
 
 The trip to Humphrey's Peak can easily be made in a 
 day, and is well worth the making. Mr. Doyle furnishes 
 conveyance and horses, and acts as guide, for a reasonable 
 consideration. 
 
 Cliff and Cave Dwellings. — Eight miles southeast 
 
 CLIFF DWELLINGS, ARIZONA. 
 
 from Flagstaff, in the same park of yellow pines, are the 
 most numerous cliff dwellings in the rugged, beautiful 
 Walnut Canon. They occupy a level on both sides of the 
 narrow gorge where the harder strata had resisted the 
 erosion of water and the weathering of time, and had 
 formed projecting shelves with recesses between. A 
 rough wall of rock fragments laid in mortar, and extend- 
 ing from the edge of the lower to the upper ledge, formed 
 the front of the dwellings, which were subdivided into 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 131 
 
 from three to five compartments. These dwellings, while 
 the rooms are usually small, are numerous enough to 
 have sheltered a population of several hundred, and being 
 situated nearly half-way down the wall were, while not 
 inaccessible, easily defended. Such articles as are now in 
 use among the Pueblo Indians have been found in these 
 long-abandoned habitations, and it is not improbable that 
 their ancient inhabitants were the parent stock of the 
 Pueblo tribes; but that is not positively known. Whoever 
 he was, that ancient man, he is an interesting and sorrow- 
 ful figure, for there is something very pathetic about these 
 deserted cliff dwellings, perched between earth and sky 
 in a lonely canon, old refuges against rapine in the days 
 when the hand of the stronger was ever raised against the 
 weaker. They were certainly hiding-places, either for a 
 timid or a much harassed handful of people, or for the 
 wives and children of warriors in time of battle. The 
 dense tragic veil of obscurity that hides the history of the 
 earliest occupants of our country can never be lifted. 
 They, like ourselves, were birds of passage, flown from 
 the common nest of humanity in Asiatic wilds, impelled 
 by unrest, or driven by relentless foes, and perhaps in the 
 end exterminated, leaving a few crude trinkets to survive 
 all memory of the hands that fashioned them. 
 
 The cave dwellings are north of Flagstaff about nine 
 miles, by the side of the stage-road leading to the Grand 
 Canon. They are the simplest conceivable human habita- 
 tions, consisting only of natural caverns formed by the 
 spout-holes of a crater, on the summit of a small volcano. 
 In some instances these black holes, which vary from the 
 size of a mere closet to that of a commodious room, are 
 roughly walled about with loose rock for defense. Frag- 
 ments of pottery are abundant, and appear to be identical 
 with that found in the cliff dwellings; but whether the 
 
132 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 last named were contemporaneous, or a subsequent evolu- 
 tion, has not been determined. There is abundant local 
 evidence that the cave dwellings were long inhabited, and 
 apparently by a considerable population. Scientists have 
 never estimated the age of either at less than five or six 
 centuries, and back of that the gulf of uncertainty widely 
 yawns. 
 
 Bottomless Pits. — A disturbing event occurred in 1891 
 out on the plain by the side of the road to the cliff dwel- 
 lings. One morning three yawning pits were discovered 
 where, the day before, solid earth had been. Such ex- 
 amination as could be made with the aid of available 
 lengths of rope revealed no bottom, and the pits were 
 named accordingly. In the lapse of time the caving of 
 the earth has partially filled them, or perhaps has only 
 superficially bridged or choked the ugly narrow chasms, 
 except in one instance, where an adventurous cowboy 
 has recently penetrated 150 feet obliquely downward, 
 first securely anchoring himself by a rope from above. 
 Though not worth going far to see, they possess a local 
 interest. Their cause is conjectural. 
 
 Oak Creek Ca5Jon. — Fifteen miles south from Flag- 
 staff the channel of Oak Creek reaches its climax of 
 impressiveness and beauty. It is a narrow, or " box," 
 canon with walls perhaps a thousand feet in height. The 
 clear deep pools and foaming rapids of the " creek " con- 
 tain myriads of trout, which are not commonly found in 
 this region, where the streams are usually of a turbid 
 character distasteful to this king of small game fish. The 
 trout-fishing of Oak Creek is really excellent, and the 
 canon itself is impressive, in spite of the fact that the 
 chaotic giant upon the north makes all others seem puer- 
 ile by comparison. 
 
 Volcanic Cones and Lava Beds. — It is claimed that 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 133 
 
 from the first thousand-feet elevation on San Francisco 
 Mountain 300 extinct volcanoes can be seen. In any 
 event, upon the north they are very plentifully scattered, 
 and the road to the Grand Canon leads past a great num- 
 ber. Many are perfectly formed cones, deeply covered 
 with black and red cinder. Some of them are prettily set 
 with shrubby cedar trees at regular intervals to their sum- 
 mits, appearing like the intelligent work of a landscape 
 gardener. Others are almost entirely bare of vegetation, 
 and the lusterless black cones tipped and streaked with 
 red seem to be touched by a perpetual ruddy ray of sun- 
 set light. Sunset Crater and Peachblow Mountain are 
 names that were applied in recognition of this remarkable 
 aspect. These two volcanoes are singularly beautiful in 
 the landscape, although they are nearly as barren as a 
 heap of dry coal-dust. 
 
 Large patches of lava also cover the plain, upon the 
 north, looking at a distance like the dense shadow of a 
 cloud, or the desolate charred path of a widespread con- 
 flagration. 
 
 It must have been a grand, though terrible sight, when 
 the plutonic forces of this vast region were in active 
 operation. 
 
 Painted Desert. — This is a weird, desolate plateau far 
 distant upon the northeast. It is destitute of water or 
 vegetation, and its surface is covered with isolated peaks, 
 buttes, and columns of sandstone worn into fantastic shapes 
 by the sand-blast. It is a region of wonderful mirages, 
 in which are said to be depicted palaces, gardens, colon- 
 nades, temples, fountains, lakes, islands, fortifications, 
 groves, orchards, cattle-herds, and human beings. It is 
 supernatural ground to the Indians, who have always 
 carefully avoided it. 
 
 The Painted Desert is visible from the San Francisco 
 
134 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 peaks, and the view has an uncanny and shadowy beauty. 
 It is delicately colored with blue, red, yellow, and green, 
 softened and harmonized by distance. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Riordan, Bellemont, Cinder 
 Pit, Rhodes, Challender, Davenport. 
 
 Williams. — Chicago, 1,755 miles; St, Louis, 1,615 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 510 miles; San Diego, 593 miles; San Francisco, 822 miles. 
 Altitude, 6,750 feet. Population, 199. Dining station. 
 
 The name of this station was derived from Bill Will- 
 iams Peak, which is distinguishable upon the south, and 
 the peak in its turn is indebted to some early pioneer 
 whose personality and deeds appear to have otherwise 
 faded from memory. 
 
 It is practicable to visit the Grand Canon from this 
 point, where conveyance can be found, but the stage-line 
 from Flagstaff is the only one indorsed by the Santa Fe 
 Route, as it reaches the point of grandest outlook yet made 
 accessible, and the best facilities and accommodations for 
 the tourist have in consequence been provided on the 
 Flagstaff route. 
 
 Three miles beyond Williams is the station Supai, and 
 beyond that for a number of miles, extends a very pretty 
 and varied gorge known as Johnson's Canon. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Supai, McLellan, Fairview. 
 
 Ash Fork.— Chicago, 1,778 miles; St. Louis, 1,638 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 487 miles; San Diego, 570 miles; San Francisco, 799 miles. 
 Altitude, 5,129 feet. Junction with Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix 
 Railway to Prescott and Phoenix. 
 
 Prescott, Phcenix, and the Salt River Valley 
 Region. — Southward from Ash Fork stretches the Santa 
 Fe, Prescott & Phoenix Railway, at the time of writing 
 newly constructed and in operation to the city of Prescott, 
 a distance of sixty miles, and in course of construction 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. • 135 
 
 onward to Phoenix, a further distance of 137 miles, to 
 which latter city it is expected to be in operation before 
 the winter of 1894. The completion of this railroad 
 through the rich mining regions surrounding Prescott, 
 and through the smaller alluvial valleys to the immensely 
 productive lands along the Salt River at and near Phoe- 
 nix, is a matter of great import to the development of 
 Arizona and to a large number of home-seekers in other 
 parts of the country, whose attention is turned inquir- 
 ingly toward the new Southwest. The region thus opened 
 on the north to quick rail communication with the outside 
 world offers much, therefore, of interest to the settler and 
 the investor, and is worthy of some comment for the ben- 
 efit of the mere traveler. But inasmuch as the railroad is 
 not yet completed between Prescott and Phoenix, this 
 somewhat wide gap being at present crossed by stage, the 
 topic wdll here be treated less methodically than are the 
 subjects relating to the direct trip to California. 
 
 Immediately below Ash Fork for a distance of twenty- 
 five miles the Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix Railway leads 
 through mountain scenery, and then descends to Chino 
 Valley, a grazing region, where alfalfa and small fruits 
 are cultivated on the irrigated portions. At a distance of 
 twenty-five miles farther on the road passes out of 
 Chino Valley at Granite Station, from which point large 
 quantities of copper matte (impure metal smelted from 
 the ore but not refined) are shipped to Chicago and New 
 York from the United, Verde, Boggs, and other copper 
 mines which lie from twenty to twenty-five miles distant. 
 A little beyond this station the road threads an extraordi- 
 nary upheaval of granite forms, covering an area nearly 
 two miles square, which much resembles in freakish char- 
 acter the Garden of the Gods in Colorado. This locality, 
 known as Point of Rocks, was an almost impregnable lurk- 
 
136 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 ing-place of Apaches in earlier troublous times in the 
 history of the Territory. Whipple Barracks, a military 
 post, lies a short distance beyond. This post was estab- 
 lished some forty years ago, and contains a garrison of 
 four companies. It is regarded as one of the most health- 
 ful locations among Government posts. 
 
 Prescott. — Distance from Ash Fork sixty miles. Altitude, 5,350 
 feet. Population (city), 1,759. 
 
 This prosperous city is the center of a vast mining 
 country, in which gold predominates over other metals. 
 Large herds of cattle find ample grazing in the adjacent 
 valleys, and there, also, are many small segregated farms 
 within a radius of from ten to twenty miles. In nearly all 
 the draws of the mountains are streams, such as the Lynx, 
 Granite, Weaver, Hassayampa, etc., in the sand-bars of all 
 which placer gold is found in paying quantity. It has been 
 claimed that many thousand men could find profitable 
 employment in this industry of gold-washing in Yavapai 
 Coimty alone. 
 
 The summer climate of Prescott is delightful. Unlike 
 the summer months in California, July, August, and Sep- 
 tember here are visited by frequent rains. There are no 
 troublesome insects. The winter is temperate. Light 
 snow occasionally falls, but seldom remains on the 
 ground for a sufficient period to afford sleighing. To this 
 locality come, in the summer, the pleasure-seeking resi- 
 dents of the more southerly and less elevated regions, to 
 dwell in tents and cottages. 
 
 Prescott is situated in the north central portion of Yava- 
 pai County, of which it is the seat. It is attractively placed 
 upon a moderate hillside that dips to Granite Creek, and is 
 girt with pines and cedars. Founded early in the '60s it is 
 one of the oldest of the towns of modern Arizona. It pos- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 137 
 
 sesses two public schools, a Catholic school, a hospital 
 under charge of the Sisters of Mercy, half a dozen 
 churches, and two banks. There are several saw-mills, a 
 planing-mill, stone-cutting and ore-sampling works, and 
 an electric-light plant. 
 
 Southward from Prescott the Sierra Prieta Range is 
 crossed at an altitude of 6,600 feet to Skull Valley, whose 
 grim name is due to the large number of Indian skulls 
 that long marked here the scene of a considerable conflict 
 between the aborigines and the early Caucasian settlers, 
 in which the latter were victorious. The valley is a dozen 
 miles long, and affords grazing for many cattle. Placer 
 gold was found in the high bars on the east side of this 
 valley in 1885, the pay dirt being on the surface; but there 
 being no water within a distance of two miles, and there 
 in practicable quantity only in the winter months, work 
 has never been extensively prosecuted, although the 
 gravel is said to yield $2 per cubic yard in flat leaf gold. 
 A few miles to the south is a larger deposit of better 
 grade, where workmen make good wages in winter, 
 although handicapped by the necessity of hauling the 
 gravel three miles to be sluiced. And it will suffice to 
 say that over a large area in this part of Arizona placer 
 gold is not uncommon, but is only fitfully worked by rea- 
 son of the scant water supply. From Skull Valley the 
 west slope of the Bradshaw Mountains and the Walnut 
 Grove mining regions are easily accessible. At Walnut 
 Grove, on the Hassayampa River, are the remains of a 
 great storage dam, which burst a few years ago, nearly 
 two-score persons losing their lives in consequence. This 
 dam will shortly be rebuilt, preparations being already 
 under way. The area of the original reservoir was more 
 than a square mile, and the water in some portions was 
 100 feet deep. It was utilized for both mining and irri- 
 gating. 
 
138 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 From Skull Valley, at an approximate altitude of 4,600 
 feet, the railway route passes into Kirkland Valley, a 
 basin of equal size. Here also hay and grain are raised in 
 quantity, and large herds of cattle are concentrated from 
 outlying ranges for shipment. 
 
 "^N^'K^C"'- ~^ 
 
 APACHE INDIANS. 
 
 Bell's Canon is the point of interest next following. 
 Here, more than a quarter century back, a Government 
 paymaster was waylaid and slain by Apaches, thus 
 bequeathing his name to the spot. Old Camp Date Creek 
 an abandoned military post, follows. Just as Skull and 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 139 
 
 Kirkland valleys are the determined distributing points of 
 supplies for the adjacent mining localities, so Old Camp 
 Date Creek will serve the Santa Maria region, the scene 
 of rich and extensive gold discoveries in recent times; 
 likewise the Hillside mine properties. 
 
 Ten miles beyond Date Creek the supply point for the 
 Congress Mine and the Weaver and lower Hassayampa 
 districts is reached. In the Weaver district is the far- 
 famed Rich Hill, where a Mexican, searching for lost 
 horses belonging to his employer, found a nugget of such 
 size and value that legend has long since claimed it for 
 its own, and sets its worth at a fabulous amount. Rich 
 Hill became famous for its placer gold, yielding larger 
 nuggets than any other camp in Arizona, but quartz 
 ledges also exist in the vicinity. There was a considera- 
 ble rush from California to this locality early in the '50s. 
 
 Twenty miles farther on is Wickenburg, supply point 
 for the Vulture Mine and the Harquahala and Castle 
 Creek districts. It is stated that the Vulture yielded over 
 $9,000,000 in gold in former days, but is now nearly inop- 
 erative for want of timber, which the railway will soon 
 bring to this as to other properties which await the assist- 
 ance of cheap transportation facilities. The difficulties 
 attending the development of these mines will be better 
 apprehended when it is stated that the lumber necessary 
 for timbering the shafts has hitherto been brought from 
 Puget Sound by vessel to the Southern California coast, 
 thence by the Southern Pacific Railroad to a point in 
 Southern Arizona on the banks of the Gila River, and 
 then freighted by wagon from sixty to seventy-five miles 
 across a waterless desert. 
 
 From Wickenburg the projected railway follows the 
 course of the Hassayampa through Box Canon, where the 
 river is crossed, and a few miles farther on the Agua 
 
140 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Fria Valley is entered. This promising valley is some 
 ten miles wide from north to south, and thirty miles long, 
 and is almost wholly capable of irrigation. In Agua Fria 
 Valley, twenty miles beyond the crossing of the Hassa- 
 yampa, is Hot Springs Junction, io6 iniles from Prescott. 
 This is the point of divergence to Castle Creek Hot 
 Springs, twenty miles away. These springs are unim- 
 proved, and the surroundings are crude, but the residents 
 of the region have unbounded faith in the future of the 
 locality as a resort for invalids and pleasure-seekers. 
 Many hundreds of people annually find their way to these 
 springs, despite their comparatively difficult accessibility. 
 There is a small hotel, but visitors commonly camp in the 
 neighborhood. The bathing is performed in a large rock- 
 walled basin, which has been created by long erosion 
 of the flowing water. The temperature of- the springs is 
 from ioo° to iio°. The waters are claimed to possess 
 a distinct medicinal virtue, and are resorted to for the 
 healing of rheumatism and blood diseases, and for recu- 
 peration from mining casualties. No analysis is at hand. 
 
 The Agua Fria, like all western rivers, is a capricious 
 stream, sinking from sight in many places during the dry 
 season, and at other times swelling to a deep turbulent 
 current, which can not be safely forded. It divides the 
 valley which bears its name from that of the Salt River, 
 the crossing being only twenty-four miles distant from 
 Phoenix. 
 
 There is no more wonderful garden spot in America, 
 perhaps in the whole world, than the Salt River Valley. 
 It contains many hundred thousand acres of irrigable 
 land, more than 200,000 acres of which have already been 
 brought into the highest state of cultivation. It is settling 
 up rapidly, and will sustain a large population. It may be 
 said to extend to Yuma, on the California boundary. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 141 
 
 Maricopa County, of which Phoenix is the seat, con- 
 tains about 250 miles of modern canals, exclusive of 
 lateral ditches; 600,000 acres of land are capable of recla- 
 mation under the present water development, and 240,000 
 acres have actually been reclaimed. The largest arti- 
 ficial waterway in the Territory is the Arizona Canal, 
 which is forty-one miles in length and thirty-six feet 
 in width at the bottom, with a carrying capacity of 1,000 
 cubic feet per second. This is situated in the northern 
 part of the valley, where also are the Grand Canal, 
 twenty-seven miles; Maricopa Canal, twenty-six miles; 
 and Salt River Valley Canal, nineteen miles, besides 
 Farmers' Canal and St. John's Canal, of a smaller dimen- 
 sion. On the south side are the Mesa Consolidated, forty 
 miles; Highland, twenty-two miles; Tempe, twenty miles; 
 Utah and Eureka, sixteen miles, and San Francisco. The 
 Arizona Canal taps the vSalt River a short distance below 
 the confluence of the Verde, at a point where a crib dam 
 1,000 feet in length raises the water of the river about ten 
 feet. Twenty-two miles from its head the water of the 
 canal falls perpendicularly sixteen feet over a ledge of 
 solid rock, furnishing power estimated at more than 2,000 
 horse-power. A mile below this fall a cross-cut canal 
 connects the Arizona with the Grand, Maricopa, and Salt 
 River Valley canals. In a course of 4)^ miles this cross- 
 cut canal makes twenty-four falls of from four to six feet 
 each, thus furnishing an additional amount of water 
 power. The commercial value of these falls is, however, 
 as yet prospective. 
 
 Concerning hay, grain, stock and fruit farming, etc., in 
 the Salt River Valley, the following brief observations, 
 condensed from reliable sources, will be of interest to the 
 inquirer: 
 
 Not less than 50,000 acres of alfalfa are now planted. 
 
142 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 capable of producing 250,000 tons of hay per annum, but 
 only a small portion of this^ immense possible crop ever 
 reaches the baler, as thousands of range steers are brought 
 in from the mountains every year to be fattened on alfalfa 
 pasturage. Alfalfa is a profitable crop, reliable and easy 
 to raise. Every acre commonly produces five or six tons 
 annually. It is mown from three to five times, dried on 
 the ground, and by ineans of hay-carriers and derricks 
 hoisted into great ricks. The price for such hay in the 
 stack varies from $4 to $7 per ton. 
 
 Barley leads the grain crops, taking the place of corn, 
 which is little grown, and used almost wholly for fatten- 
 ing swine. In 1893 the area devoted to barley in this 
 valley was 30,000 acres. This grain is a favorite with 
 farmers on account of its freedoin from rust and smut, 
 and its unfailing productiveness. Barley land is usually 
 irrigated during October or November, and planted about 
 the beginning of cold weather. A yield of forty bushels 
 to the acre may be looked for, and the price ranges from 
 75 cents to $1.50 per 100 pounds. 
 
 About 8,000 acres of wheat are planted annually, the 
 local flour mills absorbing the product. Oats are planted to 
 a limited extent for hay, and the wild variety overruns all 
 neglected grain fields. Beets, carrots, turnips, pumpkins, 
 squashes, watermelons, and cantaloupes grow to a very 
 great size, and yield heavily. Gardening, however, is 
 principally in the hands of the Chinese, who supply the 
 town residents. 
 
 The valley is exceedingly well adapted to breeding 
 and training race-horses, no winter housing being neces- 
 sar)^ and this industry is profitably followed. The cattle 
 business is of considerable importance, many farmers 
 finding their profit in buying the lean cattle of the back 
 ranges and fattening them upon green or stacked alfalfa 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 143 
 
 at a cost of $5 per head. Cattlemen, in their turn, rent 
 such pasturage at $1 a month per head. Dairying is 
 remunerative, by reason of the rich nutriment of alfalfa 
 feed; and there are not less than 3,000 stands of bees in 
 the county, the fragrant blossoms of the mesquit, alfalfa 
 bloom, and a multitude of flowering shrubs yielding a rich 
 booty to those proverbial improvers of shining hours. 
 
 But the Salt River Valley will find its greatest wealth, 
 as it has already found its widest fame, in its semi-tropical 
 fruits. The orange, lemon, fig, date, apricot, peach, 
 nectarine, plum, pomegranate, grape, and a host of 
 smaller fruits and berries grow here in perfection, and 
 some of them, notably the orange, mature several weeks 
 in advance of the California product, which fact should 
 give the Arizona fruit a distinct advantage in eastern 
 markets. 
 
 The area at present planted to orchards and vineyards 
 is about 20,000 acres. There are orange trees in the 
 valley that have been in bearing for ten years, but the 
 first orange orchard of any importance was planted under 
 the Arizona Canal, nine miles from Phoenix, in 1889. It 
 covered sixteen acres. There are now about 600 acres 
 of orange orchards, some 200 acres having begun to bear, 
 and the acreage planted is yearly increasing. The fig 
 orchards in the neighborhood of Phoenix are very exten- 
 sive. The favorite variety is the White Adriatic. A large 
 packing-house in the vicinity is entirely devoted to fig 
 drying. Of raisin grapes there are thousands of acres in 
 bearing, of which the Muscat of Alexandria, Muscatel, 
 Gordo Blanco, Malaga, and Sultana are the chief varieties. 
 The conditions of soil and climate are understood to be 
 congenial to the olive, but the trees that have been 
 planted have not yet reached the age of bearing. 
 
 Plioeiiix. — Distance from Ash Fork, 197 miles. Altitude, 1,100 
 
144 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 feet. Population (city), 3,152. Junction with Maricopa & Phoenix 
 Railroad. 
 
 This, the capital of Arizona, is situated in the center 
 of the southern half of the Territory. It stands upon a 
 gently sloping- plain some two miles distant from the Salt 
 River. On either hand, to the north and south, lie the 
 mountains, at a distance of about ten miles. It was laid 
 out in 1872. Immigration came slowly until the town was 
 connected with the Southern Pacific Railroad upon the 
 south by the Maricopa & Phoenix Railroad in 1888. Since 
 that date the rate of increase in population has been 
 rapid, until, in 1893, the number of inhabitants is esti- 
 mated at 10,000. The streets are regularly laid out from 
 north to south and from east to west, the latter being 
 named for the Presidents of the United States and the 
 former being numbered; those upon the east of Center 
 Street being known as streets, and those upon the west 
 as avenues. The main streets are 80 to 100 feet in 
 width, and many are pleasantly shaded by large trees. 
 Water flows at the side of every street, and a good water- 
 works system supplies domestic needs. Illumination is 
 supplied by gas and by electric lights, which latter are 
 used not only in the principal stores but in many private 
 residences as well. There is a complete telephone system. 
 Street-car lines traverse the most important parts of the 
 city. Among the business blocks the newest are preten- 
 tious in proportions and attractive in design. There are 
 three public schools, seven or eight churches, and numer- 
 ous sectarian, charitable, and secret organizations, among 
 which are Masons, Odd Fellows, Workmen, Knights of 
 Pythias, Select Knights, Chosen Friends, Good Templars, 
 and the Grand Army of the Republic. Also three daily 
 and weekly newspapers, three public halls, four hotels, 
 two ice factories, three planing-mills, three lumber-yards, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 145 
 
 an iron foundry, a flour-mill, and four banks. The Terri- 
 torial Insane Asylum is three miles distant. 
 
 The thriving town of Tempe is a near neighbor of 
 Phoenix, only nine miles distant. This is the site of sev- 
 eral manufactories and a normal school. 
 
 Mesa City, a town of Mormon settlement, lies eighteen 
 miles distant from Phoenix. It is actively engaged in the 
 manufacture of cheese, w4ne, and brandy, and in fruit 
 raising, drying, and canning. In 1892 Mesa City pro- 
 duced 30,000 gallons of wine and 4,000 gallons of brandy. 
 
 The climate of the Salt River Valley marks a high 
 temperature in summer, the mercury sometimes rising to 
 110°. It will be well, however, to bear in mind a fact 
 emphasized elsewhere in this book in treating of the cli- 
 mate of the arid regions of the West, namely, that the 
 degree of heat shown by the thermometer does not nec- 
 essarily indicate one's personal comfort or discomfort. 
 To say that the agriculture of a given locality is dependent 
 upon irrigation is only another way of stating that the air 
 is dry and the precipitation of moisture slight. This 
 means absence of humidity, which, quite as much as a 
 high temperature, constitutes the unpleasantness of hot 
 weather in localities where the rainfall is abundant and 
 the air surcharged with moisture. The inhabitants of 
 humid regions, in consequence, are accustomed to mount 
 to physical discomfort in exact proportion as the mercury 
 climbs its tube, and experience has taught them to asso- 
 ciate misery with a high temperature. Such teaching is 
 true only in the locality where it is taught. It becomes 
 false under different conditions, such as are presented by 
 a dry, pure, elevated air. Except in certain sunken basins, 
 at or below sea level, it would be difficult to find in the 
 whole arid West a locality which in hottest midsummer 
 could afford the terrors which are well-known to the cities 
 10 
 
146 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of New York and New England. A land of almost per- 
 petual sun, dog-days and sunstrokes are strangers here. 
 Midsummer is unquestionably a hot season in the Salt 
 River Valley, but there are few days when the workman 
 can not labor with comfort in the fields. It is distinctly a 
 healthful region, the death-rate being very low in spite of 
 the fact that a yearly increasing number of invalids resort 
 to Phoenix and vicinit}'. An almost total immunity from 
 the diseases elsewhere common to children is reported. 
 The county is free from malaria, and a record of two years 
 shows only half a dozen cases of typhoid fever. Rheu- 
 matic, consumptive, and asthmatic patients are particularly 
 benefited by residence here. When the weather grows 
 uncomfortably warm the mountains are near at hand and 
 afford prompt relief to such as are free to avail themselves 
 of the respite. 
 
 The following is the meteorological summary of 
 Arizona for the year 1892-3, based on reports from about 
 forty stations in various sections of the Territory. It 
 represents the average meteorological conditions for the 
 several months. 
 
 
 Mean tem- 
 perature for 
 the Territory. 
 
 Average pre- 
 cipitation for 
 the Territory' 
 (inches and 
 hundredths). 
 
 Weather— Character of Days. 
 
 Months. 
 
 Clear. 
 
 Partly 
 cloudy 
 
 Cloudy 
 
 Rainy.* 
 
 i8q2. 
 
 July.... 
 
 August 
 
 83-7 
 83.0 
 
 77-7 
 63-4 
 54-4 
 43-6 
 
 47-7 
 50.3 
 52.8 
 61.6 
 69.9 
 82.0 
 
 1.29 
 
 1-15 
 0.17 
 0.81 
 0.15 
 0.54 
 
 0.36 
 0.85 
 2.24 
 
 II 
 16 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 I 
 
 9 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 I 
 
 September 
 
 October 
 
 November 
 
 December 
 
 1893. 
 
 January 
 
 23 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 15 
 16 
 22 
 24 
 23 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 7 
 8 
 6 
 4 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 6 
 
 7 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 I 
 3 
 
 February 
 
 March 
 
 2 
 6 
 
 April 
 
 
 Mav 
 
 0.85 
 
 O.OI 
 
 
 June 
 
 
 
 
 
 * Days with o.oi inch or more. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 147 
 
 Prehistoric Ruins. — When the soldiers of Cortez 
 were subduing and plundering the Aztecs in Mexico the 
 valleys of the Salt and Gila rivers were barren, the rust 
 of antiquity already lying upon half-buried canals stretch- 
 ing mile after mile across the plain, where once artificial 
 streams had watered productive acres for a numerous 
 people, long since disappeared. Ri:ins of their " cities " 
 are abundant, no less than twenty-six having been dis- 
 covered, nearly buried with earth and debris, in the imme- 
 diate neighborhood of Casa Grande, Pinal County, which 
 is the most celebrated of all. In these ruins has been 
 found a large quantity of pottery, domestic implements, 
 weapons, stone mills and axes, bracelets, and other 
 trinkets of shell and onyx, etc., and the neighboring cliffs 
 are covered with chiseled and painted hieroglyphs. Stone 
 fortresses and caves have also been discovered in the 
 mountains, which were doubtless inhabited by the sam^e or 
 a similar people. The skill exercised in the construction 
 of the ancient canals of Arizona, of which numerous 
 examples are found in the vSalt River Valley, is evidenced 
 by the fact that the modern engineer has not disdained to 
 make use of considerable portions of them. In truth, the 
 new canals, in some instances, are nothing more than the 
 old ones re-excavated. 
 
 The traveler who is curious in such matters will find 
 abundant material to gratify his curiosity in this neigh- 
 borhood. In this instance the present writer is unable to 
 contribute anything derived from his personal observation, 
 and is indebted to a recently published article written by 
 Mr. J. H. McClintock of Phoenix for particulars of these 
 ancient relics: 
 
 In the Salt River Valley was, without doubt, the seat of the high- 
 est development of Arizona's prehistoric tribes. Scattered over the 
 valley are thousands of mounds that mark where the ancients' castles 
 
148 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and houses of cement and adobe once stood. Long lines of irrigat- 
 ing canals led from the river to the broad plains that stretch away for 
 a score of miles on either side. Occasionally there are seen the ruins 
 of what were plainly great citadels, their walls, for a dozen feet or 
 more, still standing, though covered with the debris of the upper 
 stories. 
 
 The only systematic and satisfying exploration of these mines was 
 in 1887, by Frank Hamilton Gushing, in charge of the Hemingway 
 Archaeological Expedition. This skilled ethnologist, for his field of 
 operations, fixed upon a buried city about seven miles south of 
 Tempe. This Western Pompeii he termed " Los Muertos," in Eng- 
 lish, "The City of the Dead." The writer was at the time a near 
 resident, and watched the progress of the work with the utmost 
 interest. 
 
 The field chosen for investigation turned out all the most san- 
 guine could have hoped for. Within its limits many long, low, 
 gravelly knolls and other elevations, covered with a rank growth of 
 mesquit and sage-brush, proved, under the searching spades of Mr. 
 Cushing's workmen, the debris of hundreds of houses, one and two, 
 possibly three, stories in height, while the apparently natural arroyos 
 that crossed the lines of these foundations were demonstrated irri- 
 gating canals of no small capacity. In fact, a large city, of which, 
 on the arrival of Mr. Cushing's party, not one corner-stone or trace of 
 a wall could be found, was partially exhumed from the earthy debris 
 of its own decay, and from amidst its now low foundations were 
 gathered almost numberless implements and remains of art, from a 
 study of which almost whole chapters have been deduced relative to 
 the domestic, civil, and religious life of the community that once 
 inhabited it. 
 
 The number of inhabitants is beyond even approximate conject- 
 ure, but the era of their residence seems in all probability to have 
 antedated, or to have been contemporaneous wath, the Norman con- 
 quest of England. It seems strange, and conveys the idea of great 
 age, to see the roots of the largest and oldest mesquits where they 
 had penetrated the chambers of these long-deserted houses now laid 
 bare, but though a dozen such trees may have grown to maturity 
 and fallen to dust on these same spots, the sum of their ages would 
 be naught compared with the time that has been required to level 
 these high buildings almost to their very foundations, and to rot 
 away every trace of the woodwork which once abundantly entered 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACTFTC COAST. 149 
 
 into their structures, save such as is left on fallen or deeply buried 
 fragments of mud and plaster. Indeed, whole vessels of hard-burned 
 earthenware, found by Mr. Gushing, which as bread and meat recep- 
 tacles were evidently set in close, well-plastered cysts or cells of 
 adobe, have, nevertheless, so far crumbled away as to be beyond 
 restoration save by the artist's methods. 
 
 The city seems to gradually thin out to the suburbs and towards 
 the small farm-houses, the burned floors of which have been found 
 scattered about more than two miles northeast, east and southeast of 
 the citadel or temple-mound. Within the intervening two miles in 
 those directions diggings were made at various intervals, and in 
 every place designated by Mr. Gushing or excavated under his per- 
 sonal directions, not only walls and foundations were found, but also 
 valuable antiquities, by the clearing away of the debris of centuries. 
 
 The investigations led to the conclusion that the race who inhab- 
 ited these now leveled buildings were of a superior cast, were a peo- 
 ple in whom industry and the instincts of government were inherent 
 and highly developed. Both skill and enterprise are shown by the 
 numerous great irrigating canals and ditches that lie spread out, like 
 true arteries, which once carried fertility and life not only to these but 
 to all parts of the valley; indeed, beyond points as yet untilled by our 
 people. Their canals, one or two of which certainly exceed in length, 
 if not in size, the Arizona (the largest canal of this day), indicate 
 vast communities of people working under an organized corporative 
 rather than a despotic system, since they were all dug by the aid of 
 no other hard implements than hoes, mattocks, and axes of chipped 
 or ground stone, and since the sole method of conveying earth to the 
 banks seems to have been by means of wicker barrows, conical bur- 
 den-baskets thrown over the shoulders, and roughly-woven fiber 
 mats, impressions of the borders of nearly all of which were detected 
 in the mud along these banks wherever, being near houses, it hap- 
 pens to have been hardened by fire or otherwise. 
 
 Those who have ever traced the course of any of the old main 
 acequias have noticed, scattered on the banks, the immense number 
 of partially rounded black basalt, or diorite bowlders, or stones. It 
 will be found that this kind of rock is not in any native -deposit of the 
 lower valleys. It has been imported from the distant mountains or 
 from the river bed, whose cobbles nearly always were broken in half 
 or otherwise shaped by the ancients and used as the chipping-stones 
 wherewith the implements above referred to were sharpened, until. 
 
150 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 their more angular edges being worn away, they were cast aside upon 
 the banks of the canal useless, save as the testimonials to later gen- 
 erations of the prodigious labors they helped to perform. 
 
 Returning, to speak of the city, the houses were irregularly placed, 
 rather according to the suitability of the topography than according 
 to the regularity of the thoroughfares, though considerable attention 
 has been given to the latter, since in some instances they passed 
 directly through, or even sometimes, evidently like tunnels, under 
 the blocks of buildings. The dwellings were scattered rather promis- 
 cuously, but, singularly enough, they all face very nearly to the car- 
 dinal points or the compass, or, in exceptional cases, were laid out 
 with reference to the central ruin or great temple mound. 
 
 The material of the houses was always adobe, usually formed by 
 hand, like large and small stones. The floors were of mud mixed 
 with ashes, beaten down and sometimes burned, and the roofs were 
 of the same material, supported, as is shown by many indentations 
 and impressions and occasional charred remains, by rafters of mes- 
 quit and cross-mattings of cane, cornstalks, or small, neatly-trimmed 
 osiers, or sometimes, as in the case of the outer dwellings, near the 
 farms, by simple brush, making practically the same sort of roof as 
 is extensively used in the valley at present. Even, too, in the latter 
 kind of buildings, thatching was in vogue, of which was seen the 
 remains in one small building, consisting of quite a deposit of straw, 
 twigs, and corn leaves, or stalks, preserved to the sight, though not to 
 the touch, from the destructive tooth of time by carbonization. 
 
 Water was supplied to the town continually by four, possibly 
 more, good-sized ditches, crossing it at almost regular intervals, and 
 connected by several smaller ones, some of which passed before the 
 very doorways of the very largest group of houses. 
 
 The active shovels of Mr. Cushing's men scooped the earth from 
 a number of public ovens. They were great pits dug into the earth 
 and lined with a thick, carefully-formed plastering of mud and natural 
 cement, which, in some instances, having been melted down by 
 excessive heat, shows slag, inclosing fragments of rock, thrown in to 
 master the fire, and which exhibit a decided copper stain. The pits 
 are in shape similar to an inverted cone or a great hopper, and are 
 of varying sizes; one which was particularly noted was about fifteen 
 feet in diameter and seven feet deep. 
 
 The Zufiis have cooking pits somewhat like these, which in 
 their language are named " Mi-ak-thli-na-a-k'o-we," literally, " green 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 151 
 
 ripening oven caves." They are used after the following fashion: 
 After heating to a high degree the walls, by filling them with fuel 
 both dry and green, to the very brink, and burning, usually for 
 a day or two, many of the brands and embers are hauled out by 
 means of long poles, and such of the embers as remain, which are 
 very considerable, are either closed in by large flat stones or covered 
 over by smaller ones. Green cornstalks and leaves, or certain 
 branches, amongst which those of the cedar or juniper may be men- 
 tioned as favorites, are thrown in upon these stones and piled up 
 along the hissing walls, which are frequently sprinkled with water; 
 then corn or the other food which, usually green, is to be ripened or 
 cooked, is heaped in, also being frequently sprinkled, and a covering 
 similar to the lining is made. Over this stones and earth are thrown 
 and the whole is sealed, as it were, with mud plastering. Then more 
 fire is kindled on the surface and the cooking or steam-baking is con- 
 tinued from one to three or four days, according to the quantity 
 of food contained. 
 
 The ovens of these ancients were always more extensive than 
 those their modern representatives have used — evidently in an 
 identical manner. By their means almost any green vegetable 
 matter was rendered sweet and delicious, and by drying could be pre- 
 served in palatable form for any length of time. If proof other than 
 this general similarity were needed relative to the use of these ancient 
 fire-pits it might be found in the fact that in them were found charred 
 remains of corn, mescal, and other green foods. 
 
 The main walls constituted a temple as well as a citadel, the resi- 
 dence of the superior priesthood. It was surrounded at a distance of 
 sixty feet, more or less, by a sun-dried mud wall, which was high and 
 straight, originally, on the foundations, and which, though pushed 
 out of shape by the growth of mesquits and the weight of fallen 
 buildings, are still tolerably straight, and so thick that a team and 
 wagon might be driven along the greater part of their extent. The 
 space inclosed by this wall is partially covered by rooms of varying 
 sizes, and there seem to have been two or three open courts, notably 
 one at the southeastern angle, which were presumably used for the 
 sacred dances and dramas and other public religious ceremonials of 
 the priests. 
 
 The central structure covered a large extent of ground and was 
 certainly four, perhaps more, stories in height. The ground floor 
 was reached in the excavation. 
 
152 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The walls were thick and of carefully-formed adobes, as ^vere also 
 the two medium walls and the double walls at either end, all extend- 
 ing to and adjoining the great wall surrounding the whole. The 
 interior walls were, many of them, comparatively thin, being built 
 up of little hand-made adobes, placed while still soft between upright, 
 nearly equidistant poles or posts of mesquit. Some of the partitions 
 were formed of coarse cane matting, secured to the upright posts and 
 plastered on either side with thick coats of mud, a prehistoric and 
 most ingenious instance of " lathing and plastering." The wood and 
 the matting are to-day disintegrated, dust or powdered charcoal 
 alone remaining of them, but on the hardened clay may be seen the 
 impress of the woven and matted work and in the walls the deep 
 holes where the wooden pillars once stood. 
 
 Though windows and port-holes have been found far up in the 
 external walls, no doors penetrated them, and thus we may infer that 
 the houses were reached by ladders as in Zuni to-day. Within, how- 
 ever, in addition to the same openings, door\A;ays are not infrequently 
 encountered. These doorways were closed in a number of ways, 
 most usually by means of heavy portieres of matting or fiber, or by 
 means of doors hung from spindles turning at top and bottom in 
 wooden or stone sockets, and sometimes by means of flat stones 
 opening and closing vertically, and fastened with heavy braces of 
 wood. 
 
 Among the many proofs found confirming the archaic relation 
 between these ancient people and the ancestry of the Zuhis of north- 
 western New Mexico, is the circumstance that the thick earthen lids 
 of the burial urns and other vessels when found show on their lower 
 surfaces the impression of a coarse, flat, cane matting identically 
 such as is used to-day by the Zufiis for the reception of their sheets 
 of wafer or paper bread, which mats are to-day, as they were in for- 
 gotten times, used also in the fashioning of flat masses of clay or 
 other plastic material. 
 
 The same implements, too, and especially the same paraphernalia, 
 were in vogue amongst these same ancient people that may be seen 
 in use in Zuni at the present time. Portions of the fire-hardened, 
 wooden belt looms and woof -sticks, as well as one or two quaint bob- 
 bins, were found. Portions of scoop-shaped spatulae and polishing 
 stones, the regular possessions of Zuni matrons (the potters of to-day), 
 have also been found. It might be inferred that, like their modern 
 representatives, the women of this ancient city were expert in all th§ 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 153 
 
 household arts of the Zufiis, in the making of the fine paper bread, 
 in the molding of vessels of clay, and in the weaving of belts and 
 blankets and other garments, for amongst the other articles of daily 
 use thus far gathered are hundreds of whorls of fine stone or ground 
 earthenware, which served to twirl the tall spiked spindles on the 
 winter evenings of long ago. 
 
 Shells are abundant, more than twenty marine species having been 
 found, indicating frequent communications with the seacoast. The 
 small oliva (of special significance) and other snail-like shells are 
 particularly common. Many fragments and complete fetiches of 
 green, blue, red, and other finely colored stones, often of spirited 
 execution, and many finely carved ornaments of suggestive shapes in 
 shell were also found. 
 
 Death and the dead seem to have had few terrors for these people, 
 for mixed in their daily associations were the urn-graves of their 
 friends and relatives and the adobe sarcophagi of their priests. Their 
 worship, as shown by the sacred implements and by numerous mystic 
 symbols, was practically the same as that of the Zufiis, and may be 
 explained as a reverence of all natural forces personified or deified. 
 Each individual of the sacred priestly or esoteric societies which Mr. 
 Gushing has found existed among them, was attached to some partic- 
 ular patron or deity whose protection was sought by the wearing*of 
 carvings representing or symbolizing him or her. 
 
 The priests, from fasting and from continued researches into 
 occult science, as well as from inherited spiritual rank, were thought 
 to have the power of communication with the invisible world, to be 
 able at any time to disengage their souls from fetters of clay, and, 
 having this power, it was deemed unnecessary to aid the flight 
 or disembodiment of their spirits at death. On the other hand, the 
 commoner people, having no such power, must needs be cremated, 
 that the entire soul might be liberated without delay or even partial 
 detention from its earthly tenement. This will explain why so com- 
 paratively few skeletons were found. Thirty-two skeletons, three or 
 four of which are those of children, and two or three only those 
 of women — none the less of sacred rank — were found, each usually 
 having at its head a pitcher, a drinking-bowl, and a trencher, in 
 which were placed the food and drink to serve for the brief journey to 
 the earliest home or council of the dead. 
 
 Sometimes it was deemed necessary to provide vessels for use in 
 the other world; in such a case the jars or cups whose spirits were to 
 
154 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 accompany the dead were ' ' killed " by boring through their bottoms 
 a good-sized hole, or by more violent means. 
 
 Five skeletons were found, in an excellent state of preservation, 
 within the great temple mound. One of them is of a man whose 
 mental powers must have been of the first order, certainly of his day, 
 the skull of a man who might have been in times of war a Napoleon, 
 in times of peace a Gladstone among them. With jutting forehead, 
 strong jaws, and perfect, large teeth, the skull is one over which 
 Professor Fowler would have grown ecstatic. Another was of a man 
 who died at an age of quite, if not over, loo years. The sutures of the 
 skull were, in places, consolidated and the entire dental and alveolar 
 formations had disappeared. Both were about six feet in height. 
 
 Then, a remarkable treasure, by the side of a little priest child, in 
 addition to finer pottery than usual, was found, carven in earthen, a 
 small rude image of a dog. This was one of Mr. Cushing's choicest 
 treasures, as it alone seemed to show connection — possibly ancestral 
 — of these ancients with the Toltecs and their successors the Aztecs; 
 since, in the tombs of the so-called "nobles" or warrior-priests 
 among the latter famed nation, it was customary to place a Mexican 
 dog. Amongst the Zunis no less than with the Aztecs the dog was 
 held (as is the horse now) as the type of geographic knowledge, it 
 being able to return through any country and from any distance to 
 the place of its nativity. Mr. Gushing attributed the historic custom 
 of the Aztecs of slaughtering a dog and placing it in the grave of a 
 person of consequence — "as a guide to the soul " — to this concep- 
 tion. Here, whither the custom seems to have been brought, 
 or whence, as he thinks, it was more likely taken, the dogs were 
 either rare or their lives held in high esteem, since the figure of one 
 was made to serve instead of the actual animal. 
 
 The bones of the skeletons lay in vaults just large enough to con- 
 tain the bodies. The receptacles were of clay, cemented from with- 
 out. They were, in nearly all instances, placed in a corner of a room 
 supposed to have been occupied by their tenants in life, and the 
 floors show evidence of having been either filled in until level with 
 the top of the tomb or else the tomb was built up until the ceiling 
 was reached. Owing to this peculiar custom the level of the rooms 
 of each story was not uniform, some of the chambers being filled 
 to the depth of several feet, nor do the walls seem built with any 
 other than accidental reference to the original plan of the main 
 structure, at least in the upper stories. 
 
NEW CxUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 155 
 
 The burial of the commoner people was materially different. In 
 the first place, as above stated, the remains were incinerated; they 
 were then placed in the burial urns, covered with saucer-like lids, 
 miniature earthen vessels placed beside, and the whole covered 
 with earth to the depth of from one to several feet. Several ceme- 
 teries have been laid bare, each having dozens of these funeral cask- 
 ets of all the various shapes in actual use in their day buried in them. 
 The burial plats are scattered all over the pueblo, and seem to show 
 that every family or small clan had a separate and convenient place 
 to deposit their dead near the walls of their block or blocks of dwell- 
 ings. The level of the country has, in Mr. Cushing's opinion, not 
 risen during the intervening centuries ; it has, on the contrary, been, 
 in some places, lowered through the action of the wind and rain, and 
 many of these ancient burying places have thus been opened to the 
 elements and the vessels destroyed, scattering much of the pottery 
 so common to the valley. 
 
 In none of the interments, either of the common people or of the 
 priests themselves, not excepting those of war, are actual weapons 
 found, merely ceremonial representatives of them, which, while indi- 
 cating an elaborate martial organization and a thorough understand- 
 ing of the art of war, show that the latter was always defensive or at 
 most retaliative. Strictly in keeping with this are the huge pierced 
 stones found near the exterior walls, which were suspended over 
 portals and other passages as means of defense, while in the far 
 northern towns and cities of this same people, along the valley and 
 tributaries of the Colorado Chiquito, huge machine missiles take the 
 place of these stones of defense, and the dead warrior-priest, in addi- 
 tion to his supplies of food, water, and other appurtenances, was 
 furnished not infrequently with actual weapons, and his shrine 
 received symbols of the same as its most fitting offerings. 
 
 Much the same character of "desert" ruins are to be found all 
 over southern Arizona, where there existed a chance to divert the 
 waters of even distant streams. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Pineveta, Crookton. 
 
 Selignian. — Chicago, 1,805 miles; St. Louis, 1,665 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 460 miles, San Diego, 543 miles; San Francisco, 772 miles. 
 Altitude, 5,247 feet. 
 
 Junction with Prescott & Arizona Central Railway 
 
156 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Chino, Red Mesa, Aubrey, 
 Yampai, Nelson. 
 
 Peach Spring's. —Chicago, 1,842 miles; St. Louis, 1,702 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 423 miles; San Diego, 506 miles; San Francisco, 735 
 miles. Altitude, 4,780 feet. Dining station. 
 
 In the vicinity of the station dwells a tribe of Indians 
 whose hillside " wickiups " are visible from the train. 
 The squaws are unconscionable beggars, and will spurn 
 any offering smaller than a nickel, which, by the way, is 
 the lowest denomination of monc}^ freely current in the 
 extreme West. 
 
 The Grand Canon is accessible from this point, too, at 
 a distance of only twenty-three miles, but the trip is 
 hardly worth the making, in view of the better facilities 
 and the infinitely grander view afforded by the Flagstaff 
 route, except in winter, if the Flagstaff route should be 
 closed. The road froiu Peach Springs leads over a rough 
 way to the bottom of the side canon of Diamond Creek, 
 through which it is necessary to proceed about four miles 
 to reach the main canon, and then the panoramic view is 
 not obtainable. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Truxton, Crozier, Hackberry, 
 Hualapai, Berry. 
 
 King-mail. — Chicago, 1,893 miles; St. Louis, 1,753 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 372 miles; San Diego, 455 miles; San Francisco, 684 miles. 
 Altitude, 3,326 feet. Population, 322. 
 
 A mining town. Rich mines lie behind the village, 
 several miles distant among the hills. The broad simple 
 landscape exerts a charm no less than fascination upon 
 those who reside in this region. The miners love it with 
 a hearty affection, and are homesick for it when away. If 
 you chance to see it in the hour of twilight, when the 
 horizon seems to shed a soft aurora above the dusky quiet 
 land, and the outline of the hills is sharply marked against 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. l5t 
 
 the sky, you will feel something of its subtle, masterful 
 quality. It shuts out all the feverish, hurrying world, 
 without requiring any surrender of manly energy. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Hancock, Drake, Kaster, 
 Yucca, Franconia, Powell. 
 
 The Colorado River. — Next to the Columbia this is 
 the principal American tributary to the Pacific. The 
 Spaniard Alargon discovered it in 1540, and ascended a 
 considerable distance from the Gulf of California by boat; 
 and in the same year one of Coronado's lieutenants 
 reached it overland from New Mexico. As a curious side- 
 light upon the sublime guess-work that guided the dis- 
 coverers of that period, it may be mentioned that Cabrillo, 
 the discoverer of the California coast, in 1542, heard of this 
 river, and sailed north as far as Cape Mendocino in search 
 of it. In 1857 Lieutenant Ives made a lengthy exploration 
 of it for our Government, and near this point, about 450 
 miles from the mouth, encountered a populous and warlike 
 tribe of Indians, the Mojaves, who tilled these meadows 
 and made their home in this locality. They were intelli- 
 gent, almost gigantic in stature, and feared by other tribes. 
 They are now reduced to a pitiful and disgusting handful, 
 of which enough will be seen at Needles Station, nine 
 miles beyond the river crossing. The cantilever bridge 
 at this point, altitude 560 feet, is the second largest in 
 America. Its clear span is 660 feet. Formerly the cross- 
 ing was several miles above, over a pile bridge, but the 
 treacherous, shifting nature of the stream compelled the 
 railroad to build down here among the obelisks, where 
 permanence is assured. 
 
 The rock spires upon the left are known as The Needles. 
 The largest are taller and farther away than they look. 
 They form the head of the beautiful Mojave Canon, into 
 which the river at once plunges. Lieutenant Ives' descrip- 
 
158 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tion of this canon, upon the occasion when he forced 
 the sturdy little " Explorer " through its rapids, is worth 
 reading, although no convenient means has yet been 
 afforded the tourist to look upon its splendors: 
 
 A low purple gateway and a splendid corridor, with massive red 
 walls, formed the entrance to the canon. At the head of this avenue 
 frowning mountains, piled one above the other, seemed to block the 
 way. An abrupt turn at the base of the apparent barrier revealed a 
 cavern-like approach to the profound chasm beyond. A scene of 
 such imposing grandeur as that which now presented itself I have 
 never before witnessed. On either side majestic cliffs, hundreds of 
 feet in height, rose perpendicularly from the water. As the river 
 wound through the narrow inclosure every turn developed some 
 sublime effect or startling novelty in the view. Brilliant tints of 
 purple, green, brown, red, and white, illumined the stupendous sur- 
 faces and relieved their somber monotony. Far above, clear and 
 distinct upon the narrow strip of sky, turrets, spires, jagged statue- 
 like peaks and grotesque pinnacles overlooked the deep abyss. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 Historical. — On the 27th day of June, 1542, Juan Rod- 
 riguez Cabrillo, with two vessels, set out from Navidad, a 
 Pacific Coast port of New Spain about 300 miles north of 
 Acapulco, Mexico, to explore the upper coast and take 
 possession of the country. On the 17th day of September 
 in that year he sailed into a bay to which he gave the 
 name of San Mateo. This was the bay of San Diego. 
 The pilot, Ferrel, kept a diary of the expedition, and 
 relates that here they saw cabins and flocks of goats; so 
 it is clear that there was then an Indian village at the 
 point where the city of San Diego now stands. Thence 
 they proceeded northward, occasionally observing a few 
 Indians in canoes, and great signal smokes on the main- 
 land. On the shores of what is now called San Pedjo 
 Bay they had their first interview with the California 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 159 
 
 Indians, who manifested no little fear of the Spaniards. 
 Some of the crew went ashore to catch fish in a net, and 
 the Indians let fly at them with arrows, wounding three 
 men. This was the only Indian hostility that occurred 
 throughout Cabrillo's expedition, and next day it was 
 explained by the statement that another Spanish explor- 
 ing party was penetrating the interior of Upper California 
 at the same time, and had killed many of the natives. 
 Ferrel describes these Indians as " well-disposed and 
 advanced," and covered with the skins of animals, although 
 these serious-minded mariners did capture two naked 
 youngsters and clap shirts on them. From this point 
 Cabrillo proceeded to explore a number of the northern- 
 most Channel Islands, where many Indians were found, 
 who treated the Spaniards kindly. These islands have 
 long since been abandoned by the natives, who were de- 
 scribed by Ferrel as inferior to the tribes on the mainland, 
 subsisting wholly on fish and living swinishly. 
 
 Cabrillo's course was irregular and uncertain. He was 
 a pioneer, and in such work as the discoverers cut out for 
 themselves in that audacious era, the most skillful naviga- 
 tor was little more than a professional guesser. Moreover 
 the two vessels were without decks, and were driven 
 hither and yon at the pleasure of the storm, often sepa- 
 rated, and both occasionally forced to take a southward 
 tack to the Channel Islands for rendezvous and repairs. 
 When the winds again were favorable they took up the 
 task once more. The expedition wintered on the Isla de 
 Posesion (afterward Juan Rodriguez, and now San Miguel 
 Island), where on the 3d day of January, 1543, Cabrillo 
 died and was buried. Ferrel succeeded him in command, 
 and by the ist day of March following had pushed as far 
 north as the present southern boundary of Oregon. There 
 tempestuous weather separated the vessels and drove them 
 
100 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 southward, not to meet again until twenty-five days after. 
 The expedition then returned to Navidad. 
 
 Ferrel's narrative is difficult to follow, and for the 
 
 CALIFORNIA LIVE OAK. 
 
 most part monotonous; but it has occasional passages that 
 are full-flavored, like the following: 
 
 Toward night the wind freshened and shifted to the south-south- 
 west. They ran this night to the west-northwest with much diffi- 
 culty, and Thursday at daybreak the wind shifted to the southwest 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 161 
 
 with great fury, and the seas came from many parts, which harassed 
 them much, and broke over the ships, which not having decks, if God 
 should not succor them, they could not escape; and not being able to 
 lay by, of necessity they ran aft northeast toward the land; and now 
 holding themselves for lost they commended themselves to Our Lady 
 of Guadalupe, and made their wills, and ran thus until 3 o'clock in 
 the forenoon with much fear and labor, for they saw that they were 
 going to be lost, and already saw many signs of the land which was 
 near, as small birds, andlogs very fresh, which floated from some rivers, 
 although from the dark and cloudy weather the land did not appear. 
 At this hour the mother of God succored them with the grace of her 
 son, and there came a violent rainstorm from the north, which made 
 them run all that night and the following day until sunset to the 
 south with the foresails lowered; and because there was a high sea 
 from the south it broke over them each time by the prow, and passed 
 over them as if over a rock, and the wind shifted to the northwest 
 and the north-northwest with great fury, so that it made them run 
 until Saturday, the 3d of March, to the southeast and to the east- 
 southeast, with such a high sea that it made them cry out without 
 reserve that if God and his blessed mother did not miraculous!}' save 
 them they could not escape. Saturday afternoon the wind moder- 
 ated and remained at the northwest, for which they gave many thanks 
 to our Lord. 
 
 This exploration had no immediate results. For sixty 
 years thereafter California lay fallow. During that inter- 
 val, namely, in 1579, Sir Francis Drake, cruising in the 
 Golden Hind, stumbled upon this coast and named it New 
 Albion. Philip III. heard of Drake's exploit, and fearing 
 that the country would be lost to Spain ordered it fortified. 
 Sebastian Vizcaino, therefore, in 1602, discovered the ba}^ 
 of Monterey and rediscovered and surveyed the harbor of 
 San Mateo, which, as the survey was made on the 12th day 
 of November — St. James' " day " in the church calendar — 
 was thereupon named San Diego, which is Spanish for the 
 name of that saint. Nevertheless, the actual occupation 
 of California did not begin until 1769, when Fra Serra and 
 
 his companions came to San Diego to found missions. 
 11 
 
162 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The early history of California is therefore a history 
 of the missions. The region was known as Alta (Upper) 
 and Baja (Lower) California, the latter division corre- 
 sponding generally to the peninsula in Mexican territory 
 which still bears that name. The mission work of the 
 Spaniards was begun upon the peninsula by the Jesuits, 
 in 1697. In 1748, or thereabouts, a priest of the Francis- 
 can order, named Jimipero Serra, came to Mexico with 
 two or three companions of his sect and devoted himself 
 to general missionary labors. In 1797 the Jesuits were 
 expelled from the California peninsula and their privi- 
 leges given to the Franciscans. Serra was a man of pro- 
 found piety, and although fifty-six years old, and lame, 
 possessed indefatigable energy. The opportunity thus 
 offered was one he had long dreamed of, and he promptly 
 proceeded to take advantage of it. After a short stay on 
 the peninsula, Serra and his companions withdrew to 
 Alta California, in 1769, and made that the scene of the 
 vast missionary work that was projected. 
 
 James W. Steele gives the following sketch of the 
 beginning and end of the Franciscan missions in his 
 delightful "Old Californian Days": 
 
 There were sixteen persons in the land party with which Serra 
 was. There was still another land party, and two more were to go 
 by sea in two ships. None of the four parties knew anything about 
 it. They were taking the chances that a part of some one of them 
 would get there. A man of those times named Galvez had charge 
 of the outfitting and practical part. It was to him that California is 
 to this day indebted for a considerable addition to the resources 
 found when, after seventy-nine years, an eminently enterprising peo- 
 ple became interested. He ordered the carrying of the seeds of 
 everything that would grow in Spain, together with 200 head of cat- 
 tle. Of these came the herds that were afterward so much at home, 
 and of the seeds and cuttings came much that is most profitable and 
 beautiful in California now. There was, besides, a very complete 
 assortment of holy vessels, crosses, banners, and things necessary to 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 163 
 
 the uses and services of the church. There are even strong evidences 
 that so heavy and inconvenient a thing as a church bell, several of 
 them, was thought of and included. 
 
 If the reader has any idea whatever of the country near the coast 
 in South California, and of the southern part of it where it joins the 
 peninsula of Lower California, and then can imagine it in a state of 
 nature, covered with cactus and sage, crossed by a jumble of mount- 
 ain ridges, waterless save in hidden places, and absolutely pathless, 
 he can have some conception of the rigors of this tramp from Villa- 
 cata to San Diego. We may remember that there was a double pur- 
 
 -m-'/ui^ 
 
 OLD CALIFORNIA HACIENDA. 
 
 pose in it, the first of which was the colonization of California, and 
 secondly, the conversion of those who, in the cant of that day, both 
 Puritan and Catholic, were known, as by the Mormons now, as 
 "Gentiles." 
 
 At the end of the written instructions of Galvez, which were 
 intended to govern the expedition, he stated, among other things, 
 that one of the objects of the enterprise was to protect the country 
 from the ambitious views of foreign nations. This is very Spanish, 
 for the beautiful wilderness of California was then more utterly 
 
164 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 unknown than are now the scenes of Stanley's explorations in the 
 heart of Africa, and probably its latest foreign visit had been that of 
 Drake, one hundred and eighty-nine years before. 
 
 Indeed, the only knowledge of where they were going was 
 obtained from such record as had been made of the survey of Admiral 
 Vizcaino, in 1602, a hundred and sixty-five years before. The two 
 points that attracted especial attention were San Diego and Monterey, 
 both named and described by him for the first time. Yet so closely 
 was this first definite scheme of colonization and conversion planned, 
 that there were orders to plant a mission and garrison first at San 
 Diego, then at Monterey, and then one half-way between to be called 
 Buena Ventura, a favorite Spanish name meaning " good luck." 
 
 The expedition having been divided into four bodies in all, Serra 
 insisted upon accompanying one of the land parties, and this, seem- 
 ingly, for the reason that he had a lame leg, acquired in walking 
 from Vera Cruz to the City of Mexico twenty years before. All the 
 degrees of martyrdom seem to have been fully appreciated in those 
 times. One of the ideas of the age may be partially illustrated by 
 the fact that Serra never did anything for this difficulty in all the 
 years after, but either aggravated it or was indifferent to it. . . . 
 
 The present writer must, in all sincerity, state his entire igno- 
 rance as to precisely where in the upper part of the peninsula of 
 Lower California Villacata was situated, but the missionaries left 
 there on March 24th and arrived at San Diego on May 13th, The 
 party with which Serra was, however, did not reach there until six 
 weeks later, and when they came they found everybody sick wnth 
 scurvy, and many dead. The ships were there. One of them, the 
 San Carlos, which arrived last, lost all her sailors but two. The 
 San Antonio, the other, which sailed a month and a half later than 
 the San Carlos, reached San Diego twenty days the soonest. There 
 was some difficulty in finding the place. An age of discovery and 
 maritime adventure could not furnish any better sailors than that. 
 She also lost half her crew by that fatal malady, now almost 
 unknown 
 
 Padre Serra was an enthusiast. He beat his bare breast with a 
 stone, and burned it with a lighted torch, to illustrate to the Indians 
 the pains and penalties of hell. But neither he nor any of his breth- 
 ren ever made a mistake in the location of a mission, and they are 
 invariably the best locations in the California of to-day. Walking 
 barefoot over those thorny miles, possessed with a burning desire to 
 
NEW nUTDE TO THE PACTEIC COAST. 1G5 
 
 baptize, longing only to preach the everlasting gospel, one of the most 
 devoted men who has ever followed in the footsteps of the founder 
 of the Christian faith, he yet knew where the land was good, where 
 the wild grapes grew, where there were roses which reminded him 
 of those that in his youth he had seen in the braids of the maids of 
 
 old Castile Serra was a man who believed. He 
 
 believed it all. He had the original theological ideas, and all of 
 them, which now seem so incongruous in a practical and doubting 
 world. He knew. In all his days he never wavered in the idea that 
 he should convert the heathen of California, and yet he knew noth- 
 ing of the task before him. He was an enthusiast who remained so 
 regardless of difficulty, or fact, or report, or actual demonstration. 
 And there was, therefore, never a missionary enterprise before or 
 since so successful as this. Here are some data, not given from the 
 religio-spiritual view point, which was Serra's, but from the tem- 
 poral one of his brethren and successors: 
 
 During sixty-five years only thirty thousand Indians are actually 
 known to have been in the church at one time, and these were 
 engaged in the mission establishments, kept and lodged there, and 
 occupied in profitable industries. Yet the early beginnings grew 
 into establishments at that time unequaled elsewhere, and since 
 impossible anywhere. There are no reliable facts showing how 
 many heathens were all the time outside and unconverted. Some 
 have said there were 120,000. In fact their number has never been 
 precisely known 
 
 In 1834 the line of missions was about 700 miles long, 
 from San Diego northward to the latitude of Sonoma. They 
 lay contiguous and adjoining. Their sites were the most eligible 
 spots of the sunniest land the world knows. 
 
 Seven hundred thousand cattle grazed on the mission pastures, 
 with 60,000 horses and an immense number of other domestic 
 animals. 
 
 A hundred and twenty thousand bushels of wheat were raised 
 annually, besides all other crops. 
 
 The usual products came under the following heads: wheat, 
 wine, brandy, soap, leather, hides, wool, oil, cotton, hemp, linen, 
 tobacco, salt, soda. 
 
 Two hundred thousand head of cattle were slaughtered annually 
 at a net profit of $10 each. 
 
 Gardens, vineyards, and orchards surrounded or were contiguous 
 to all the missions except the two most northern ones. 
 
166 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The total average annual gains of the missions from sales and 
 trade generally was more than $2,000,000. This on an uninhabited 
 and distant coast where commerce in our sense was unknown. 
 The value of live-stock alone was, in 1834, $2,000,000. 
 
 There was, besides all these resources, a "pious fund" in Mexico, 
 constantly accumulating, which had belonged to the Jesuits and was 
 now the property of these missions. It amounted to $2,000,000, 
 Towards the end the Mexican government could not resist the 
 temptation of borrowing from this, and finally General Santa Ana 
 confiscated it bodily. 
 
 It now appears that the Spanish government had a theory upon 
 which these missions were established. It was, that after ten years 
 the Indians would become citizens, living in agricultural communi- 
 ties on lands secured to them, and self-supporting and perhaps pros- 
 perous. They intended to use the missions to this end. The final 
 acts and decrees which secularized them seem to hint at this original 
 intention, and to consider the time ripe for its fulfillment. The 
 present conclusion is that this theory of the capacity of the Ameri. 
 can Indian for citizenship was a false one, to which there is only one 
 exception in all the annals of our history. To him nothing now 
 remains of all the fathers taught him. He does not remain himself. 
 Through what means the reminant of him became what it is, may be 
 found by reading a glowing chapter in Mrs. H. H. Jackson's volume, 
 " Glimpses of Three Coasts." . . . Contemporary testimon}^ is to 
 the effect that he knew about as little as any being that ever bore the 
 human form, and that the padres made the most of him, spiritually 
 
 and temporally Most commentators upon those times 
 
 allege that the Indians were in reality slaves; that they were flogged 
 and forced in the name of religion; that those outside would not 
 come into the fold, and those inside could not get out. It seems 
 certain that when the heroic soul of Junipero Serra departed at 
 Monterey, in 1784, the end for which he had endured and prayed was 
 lost sight of, and the human love of ease and gain arose uppermost 
 in all minds. Thus the briefest history of South California develops 
 one of the saddest stories to be found in the annals of Christian 
 endeavor. It was a work wrought almost in vain. There are no 
 results. There is just a splendid story spoiled, a lofty and pious life 
 wasted, and the doom of a race sealed by the mere effort to civilize 
 and save them. For hardly more than one hundred years have 
 passed, and the few wretches one encounters, living in huts and 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 16? 
 
 wandering through the country at sheep-shearing time, are almost 
 the entire visible remnants of the thousands that blackened the hills 
 to watch the entrance of the San Carlos or the San Antonio, under 
 Point Loma, or who ran, scared away, when the soldiers fired their 
 pieces as an accompaniment of that first mass at a spot facing the 
 port where the corner-stone of a fatal civilization was laid on the 
 western coast, on July i6, 1769. . . . 
 
 More than a score of missions were established by the 
 Franciscans in California, in the following order: 
 
 San Diego, July 16, 1769. 
 
 San Carlos de Monterey, June 3, 1770. 
 
 A RUINED MISSION. 
 
 San Antonio de Padua, July 14, 1771. 
 
 San Gabriel Archangel, September 8, 1771. 
 
 San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, September i, 1772. 
 
 Dolores de Nuestro Padre San Francisco de Assis, October 9, 1776. 
 
 San Juan Capistrano, November i, 1776. 
 
 Santa Clara de Assis, January iS, 1777. 
 
 San Buenaventura, March 21, 1782. 
 
 Santa Barbara, December 4, 1786. 
 
 La Purisima, December 8, 1787. 
 
 Santa Cruz, August 28, 1791. 
 
 Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, October 9, 1791. 
 
168 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 San Jose, June ii, 1797. 
 
 San Juan Bautista, June 24, 1797. 
 
 San Miguel, July 25, 1797. 
 
 San Fernando Rey, September 8, 1797. 
 
 San Luis Rey de Francia, June 13, 1798. 
 
 Santa Inez Virgen y Martyr, September 17, 1804. 
 
 San Rafael, December 14, 181 7. 
 
 San Francisco de Solano, April 25, 1S20. 
 
 In 1834 the Mexican government secularized the mis- 
 sion properties, reserving lands to the Indians in indefinite 
 terms. After the departure of the padres, incoming set- 
 tlers deprived the Indians of their lands, and their condi- 
 tion became such that the attention of philanthropic 
 minds was directed to them. Before the novel " Ra- 
 mona" had been conceived, Mrs. Helen Hunt Jackson 
 had studied the condition of the California Indians, as 
 special agent of the United States Government, and it was 
 largely due to her untiring efforts that a law was passed 
 providing for a division of reservation lands among them. 
 
 Early in the second decade of the present century 
 California threw off the Spanish yoke and became a terri- 
 tory of the new Mexican republic. By 1846 many Amer- 
 icans had crossed the plains into California, and in that 
 year they rebelled against Mexican rule. Fremont, 
 accompanied by Kit Carson and a handful of men who 
 composed his exploring party, came into conflict with the 
 Mexicans about the same time, and open warfare began. 
 
 United States war vessels which were upon the coast 
 captured Monterey, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. On 
 the 6th of December of that year (1846) the little Army of 
 the West, having marched from the Missouri River to 
 San Pascual Valley, which lies thirty miles distant from 
 San Diego, was met by a Mexican force, and the bloody 
 little battle of San Pascual was fought, in which nineteen 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 160 
 
 officers and men were lost by the Americans, who, never- 
 theless, succeeded in effecting a junction with Commodore 
 Stockton at San Diego. Shortly after, the Saxon con- 
 quest of California was complete, and in 1848 it was 
 formally ceded by Mexico to the United States. It was 
 admitted as a State in 1850. 
 
 In 1848 gold was discovered by James W. Marshall at 
 Sutter's Mill (Coloma), about forty miles north of Sacra- 
 mento, and within two years thereafter the fame of the 
 discovery had attracted a vast multitude of fortune-seek- 
 ers. When, out of the chaos of the few years immediately 
 following, order was brought, the modern California 
 became possible. Its development since that time has 
 been no less than phenomenal, and the enormous value of 
 precious metal which in the past it has yielded, and in the 
 future will continue to yield, has become a minor consider- 
 ation; for the agricultural and horticultural possibilities 
 of the State are beyond all calculation. 
 
 Descriptive. — The length of California, from north to 
 south, is 770 miles, and its breadth is from 150 to 330 miles. 
 Its area is 156,592 square miles, and next to Texas it is the 
 largest State in the Union. It has more than a thousand 
 miles of seacoast. In altitude it ranges over 15,000 feet; 
 that is to say, from below sea-level to 15,046 feet, which 
 is the height of the pinnacle of Mount Whitney. This is 
 the highest mountain-peak in the United States, except- 
 ing Alaska, and overlooks the sunken region of Death 
 Valley, which lies directly east and not far away. 
 
 The entire shore-line of the Atlantic coast from Boston 
 to Charleston and all the area included in ten of the orig- 
 inal States are required to measure the extent of California, 
 many of whose counties are large enough for kingdoms 
 in the Old World. It is mainly composed of mountains 
 and valleys, and has two great ranges, the Sierra Nevada 
 
170 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and the Coast Range. The first named fences the eastern 
 border, and has an altitude of from 8,000 to 15,000 feet; 
 the second is from 2,500 to 4,000 feet in height. 
 
 The extreme north is marked by a densely wooded 
 mountainous country. In the middle lies the Great 
 Valley, renowned for fertility. And in the extreme south 
 there is much of desert and bleak mountain alternated with 
 lovely fruitful valleys and timbered ranges. 
 
 Here are many of the world's marvels. The Yosemite 
 Valley, with its magnificent scenery of forest, cliffs, rock- 
 sculptures, and extraordinary waterfalls, nestles in the 
 Sierra Nevada at an altitude of over 4,000 feet. Farther 
 north in the same range lies Lake Tahoe, a beautiful and 
 much-visited sheet of water, divided by the Nevada 
 boundary. And there are innumerable passes, and gorges, 
 and small valleys, between towering individual peaks and 
 volcanic plains, and cones, redwood forests and giant 
 sequoias. The Coast Range offers bare or tree-dotted 
 slopes, dense forests and valleys of well-watered agricult- 
 ural lands. 
 
 A rough topographical sketch of California would con- 
 spicuously show an elongated narrow basin, lying nearly 
 north and south between the two ranges, and pointed at 
 each end. The northern point is approximately marked 
 by Mount Shasta, a bald volcanic peak 14,440 feet high, 
 and near the southern point stands Mount San Bernardino. 
 The valley thus roughly inclosed is actually about 450 miles 
 long, and, including the foot-hills, from 75 to 100 miles 
 broad. Northward through the southern half flows the San 
 Joaquin River, and southward through the northern half 
 flows the Sacramento. These two meet opposite San Fran- 
 cisco and flow into the bay as one. This vast interior basin 
 is, by common usage, referred to as if it were really com- 
 posed of two separate valleys, which are named after their 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 171 
 
 respective rivers. Here the fame of California as an 
 agricultural and fruit-raising State took rise, and for a 
 good many years was monopolized. Until about twenty 
 years ago Southern California (by which is understood 
 the region comprised in the six southern counties of San 
 Bernardino, Los Angeles, Ventura, Santa Barbara, Orange 
 and San Diego) was, except in the immediate neighborhood 
 of the missions, little better than a desert. In that short 
 space the southern part of the State has become even 
 more famous than the northern, by reason of the superior 
 equability of its climate and its better adaptability to the 
 culture of the citrus fruits (orange, lemon, citron, etc.). 
 The word desert, as applied to any portion of our West, 
 must be understood to refer to the absence or scantiness 
 of vegetation in consequence of the lack of water. There 
 is no richer soil to be found anywhere than that which 
 composes the Great American Desert. But the amount of 
 rainfall is in inany parts insufficient to support vegetation, 
 and for the same reason the streams are few and generally 
 small; and in consequence artificial watering, as practiced 
 in irrigation, is generally necessary, although there are 
 many large and profitable fruit-growing and general 
 farming ranches in California in localities where irriga- 
 tion is not required. The commercial value of a large 
 and permanent water supply here, therefore, is very 
 great. It is the only desirable thing with which nature 
 has not been lavish. 
 
 Climate. — Within the ten degrees of latitude com- 
 prised in the boundaries of California are included enor- 
 mous areas of seacoast and interior desert, between 
 which lie long, sinuous mountain ranges, here and there 
 rising to lofty, frigid peaks, or broken by gaps, with 
 numerous interlying sheltered valleys. Latitude, altitude, 
 mountain barriers, the proximity of the sea, and the effect 
 
172 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of the Japanese ocean current, flowing southward from 
 the Alaskan coast, all enter into the question of climate. 
 The State has two general climatic divisions, the line of 
 separation being practically the same as for the geo- 
 graphical division, extending from Point Conception, a 
 high promontory of the Coast Range west of Santa 
 Barbara, eastward along the Sierra Madre arm of that 
 range. North of that promontory the general direction 
 of the shore line is east of south, and it is closely followed 
 by the Japanese current already mentioned. South from 
 Point Conception the coast turns rather abruptly toward 
 the east, and then bends southeastward in a long arc. 
 Here begins the Santa Barbara Channel, running between 
 the mainland and the neighboring chain of islands. 
 Point Conception and these islands w^ard off the cool 
 Japanese current from the retreating coast, and wdthin 
 the channel the water is perceptibly warmer. The 
 heated air of the interior valleys rises during the day, 
 and induces an inward draft of air from the sea, which, 
 by reason of the deflection of the Japanese current as 
 above described, is warmer along the coast south of Point 
 Conception than it is north of that point. And every 
 night, continuing through the early morning, this air- 
 current returns seaward, having been cooled and stripped 
 of moisture upon the interior desert levels after night- 
 fall. This pendulum-swing of the wind, blowing inland 
 laden with inspiriting qualities derived from the sea, and 
 returning heavily charged with ozone and the balsamic 
 odor of pines, considered in connection with the config- 
 uration of mountains, valleys, and mesas, is the key to 
 innumerable differentiations of climate within the two 
 broad divisions above mentioned. The vast interior plain 
 of the San Joaquin and Sacramento valleys is entirely 
 walled in between the Sierra Nevada and Coast ranges, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 173 
 
 except for one outlet opposite San Francisco Bay. This 
 basin, thus largely cut off from the ameliorating effect of 
 the ocean breeze upon the one hand and the breeze from 
 the high desert regions upon the other, experiences 
 greater extremes of heat and cold than any other portion 
 of the State west of the Sierra. It has also less rainfall, 
 for the reason that the intervening ranges rob the rain- 
 clouds of much of their moisture in their progress toward 
 this region. The coast has a more equable temperature, 
 but is subject to evening fogs from the sea. 
 
 It follows that the nearest approach to perfection of 
 climate in California is generally to be looked for in the 
 southern part of the State, that is to say, in the region 
 outside of the great walled valley of the interior south 
 of the deflection of the Japanese current; and if one is 
 sensitive to an occasionally fog-laden air, a short distance 
 back from the sea. It is, however, true that the topog- 
 raphy of a number of localities in Northern California 
 presents conditions which in effect are practically the 
 same. 
 
 The tourist will find this a land of delightfully temper- 
 ate weather in the main, sunny, stimulating, and healthful 
 at all times; a land where he can escape the inclemencies 
 of the northern winter, and in summer abide in comfort. 
 It has become famous as a winter resort simply because 
 of its greater natural beauty and attractiveness, and its 
 contrast with harsh regions of the north temperate zone 
 in that season; but the California summer is only less 
 agreeable. There are two seasons, the rainy and the dry. 
 The rains are usually restricted to the period between the 
 latter part of October, or early part of November, and the 
 end of April. The rainy season is the most delightful 
 time of the year, the precipitations being commonly 
 separated by periods of perfect weather. At San Diego 
 
174 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the average rainfall for a period of sixteen years was only 
 10.95 inches per annum; at Point Conception, for eight 
 years, it was 12.21 inches; at Santa Barbara, for nineteen 
 years, 17.83 inches; at Santa Monica, for three 3^ears, 16.13 
 inches. Inland points make showing as follows: Los 
 Angeles, nine years, 17.64 inches; Colton, ten years, 9.84 
 inches; Rivenside, five years, 9.37 inches; San Bernardino, 
 sixteen years, 16.17 inches. It can not rain very indus- 
 triously where so little water falls. But the records also 
 show the average number of clear, fair, and cloudy days 
 in each year, and the average number of days on which 
 rain fell at San Diego through a period of fifteen years 
 was only thirty-four yearly. In the long dry interval of 
 summer, vegetation, except where artificially supplied 
 with water, languishes, the hillsides turn brown and the 
 roads become very dusty; but when the first rains 
 come the grass shoots anew, herbage springs up freshly, 
 and shortly the hills are buried in a tangle of odorous 
 bloom well-nigh incredible to one who had looked upon 
 them a few short weeks before. Whole fields are ablaze 
 with the orange flame of the poppy, which is the floral 
 emblem of California; violets and a score of familiar blos- 
 soms carpet the ground thickly, and there is a profuse 
 blooming of myriad plants peculiar to California, or at 
 least unfamiliar to the newcomer, and not easy of identifi- 
 cation by means of the standard books on botany to 
 which he is accustomed. 
 
 The nights, even in midsummer, are chill, and in mid- 
 winter the days are spring-like and friendly. In the cold- 
 est weather heavy flannels or heavy outer wraps are not 
 worn, but light flannels and woolens are worn through- 
 out the year. The northern visitor unaccustomed to 
 California will do well to wear in winter the same cloth- 
 ing that he would wear at home, substituting a light over- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 175 
 
 coat or wrap for a heavy one; and in summer avoid the 
 mistake of being insufficiently clad. There are no sudden 
 changes of temperature, but it is always a little cooler 
 than it seems to be, and the winter tourist is only too 
 often accustomed to overheated apartments and finds the 
 interior of hotels, houses, shops, and theaters in California 
 incomprehensibly chilly during the first few days of his 
 stay. The trouble is merely that he has been habituated 
 to an unnecessarily high temperature within doors. Let 
 him keep warm, and in a short time he will become 
 accustomed to a normal and healthy temperature and be 
 the better for it. 
 
 The ocean air is humid, but not heavily laden with 
 moisture, as is evidenced by the fact that it abstracts 
 moisture from instead of lending it to other objects. 
 Meats and fish are dried for export in the open air on 
 the seashore, grasses cure upon the root, perspiration is 
 insensible, and water is cooled by hanging in an earthen 
 vessel exposed to the air. It is a not uncommon belief 
 among invalids that humidity is hostile in its effect upon 
 certain diseases, among which phthisis is included, but it 
 is only proper to state that eminent California practition- 
 ers, at least, make an emphatic distinction between such 
 humidity as the moisture of pure sea air and that which 
 exudes from the soil. It is certain that not a few cases of 
 advanced consumption have found the most favorable 
 conditions for permanent arrest of the disease upon the 
 very shore of the sea, as at San Diego. Others appear to 
 derive greater benefit from a greater altitude and a drier 
 air. And it would seem that all the favorable conditions 
 that climate can afford are to be found at one or another 
 locality in Southern California, on either island, penin- 
 sula, valley, foot-hill, mountain or desert. The invalid is 
 advised to abandon at once any notion that because he 
 
176 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 does not experience the sensation of tropical warmth the 
 conditions may not be suitable. It is not the least of the 
 merits of this climate that it is opposed to languor and 
 stirs to out-of-door activities. In this particular the very 
 sensitive need only be cautioned to wear sufficient cloth- 
 ing and to confine out-of-door exercise to the warmer 
 hours of the day. 
 
 The healthfulness of California is strikingly evidenced 
 in the longevity of the native Indians, many individuals 
 being still alive at ages ranging from one hundred to one 
 hundred and forty years. 
 
 The following tables, selected from the latest published 
 reports of the California State Agricultural Society, will 
 give the reader a fair general idea of the kind of weather 
 that prevails here, so far as brief meteorological statistics 
 will serve: 
 
 SAN DIEGO. 
 Summary of Weather for i8qo. 
 
 Months 
 
 January 
 
 February .. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July.. 
 
 August 
 
 September. 
 October. ... 
 November . 
 December . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' -^ 
 
 •a 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j_j 
 
 ..... 
 
 C M 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 0) 
 
 u 
 
 Mean 
 
 aximum 
 
 perature 
 
 Mean 
 
 inimum 
 
 perature 
 
 a • 
 
 a 
 
 > 
 
 a. . 
 
 
 
 c 
 '5 
 Pi 
 
 Ltest Rai 
 [ in any 
 urs. 
 
 
 ■X 
 
 Q 
 
 ■j5 
 
 >> 
 
 P 
 
 73 
 
 a 
 
 a; 
 
 sa 
 
 §a 
 
 0) 
 
 
 
 
 
 cu ce 2 
 
 W^-l -^ 
 
 ^> 
 
 0) 
 
 u 
 "n1 
 
 ;3 
 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 W 
 
 U 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 fe 
 
 
 
 5T° 
 
 58° 
 
 41° 
 
 
 
 
 
 2.99 
 
 1.32 
 
 28m 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 5 
 
 54 
 
 62 
 
 46 
 
 
 
 
 
 1.70 
 
 I .04 
 
 30 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 56 
 
 65 
 
 4B 
 
 
 
 
 
 .41 
 
 ■38 
 
 24 
 
 II 
 
 9 
 
 II 
 
 59 
 
 bS 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 •05 
 
 •03 
 
 20 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 60 
 
 66 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 
 
 .08 
 
 .04 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 64 
 
 71 
 
 57 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 None. 
 
 None. 
 
 21 
 
 IS 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 74 
 
 6^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 None. 
 
 None. 
 
 20 
 
 18 
 
 q 
 
 4 
 
 70 
 
 75 
 
 64 
 
 
 
 
 
 Trace. 
 
 Trace. 
 
 23 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 69 
 
 75 
 
 63 
 
 
 
 
 
 •65 
 
 •37 
 
 24 
 
 18 
 
 I 
 
 II 
 
 05 
 
 71 
 
 55 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 .01 
 
 .01 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 64 
 
 76 
 
 52 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 .72 
 
 .72 
 
 21 
 
 23 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 61 
 
 69 
 
 52 
 
 
 
 
 
 1. 61 
 
 1.23 
 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 5 
 
 12 
 
 Q 
 c 
 Pi 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 177 
 
 LOS ANGELES. 
 Summary of Weather for i8qi. 
 
 Months. 
 
 January 
 
 February . 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 October ... 
 November 
 December. 
 
 6 
 
 <b 
 
 (U 
 
 
 
 1- 
 
 u 
 
 
 f3 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 <U (U 
 
 be !> 
 
 OS 
 
 S& 
 
 in &i 
 
 P, 
 
 
 
 
 
 56° 
 
 80° 
 
 34° 
 
 •25 
 
 53 
 
 71 
 
 33 
 
 8.56 
 
 5« 
 
 82 
 
 40 
 
 .41 
 
 59 
 
 86 
 
 42 
 
 1 . 26 
 
 62 
 
 74 
 
 47 
 
 •31 
 
 66 
 
 8q 
 
 49 
 
 None 
 
 74 
 
 *io9 
 
 54 
 
 Trace 
 
 75 
 
 96 
 
 54 
 
 None 
 
 73 
 
 100 
 
 52 
 
 .06 
 
 66 
 
 8q 
 
 46 
 
 None 
 
 61 
 
 85 
 
 40 
 
 None 
 
 53 
 
 75 
 
 33 
 
 1.99 
 
 X} 
 
 
 so 
 
 70 
 70 
 72 
 78 
 73 
 73 
 75 
 69 
 
 75 
 73 
 
 i9ni 
 24 
 
 24 
 16 
 18 
 16 
 15 
 13 
 20 
 16 
 12 
 28 
 
 * Highest recorded. The normal maximum is 94°. 
 
 RIVERSIDE. 
 Summary of Weather for i8c 
 
 ■Jj 
 
 
 
 
 ■f^ 
 
 m 
 
 w 
 
 
 c3 
 
 >, 
 
 >. 
 
 to 
 
 G 
 
 01 
 
 
 
 
 cS-a 
 
 -c 
 
 >. 
 
 13 
 
 Oh 3 
 
 p 
 
 C 
 
 Clou 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 II 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 14 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 23 
 
 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 ■^ i 
 
 1 
 
 fe 
 
 bo 
 
 Months. 
 
 January ... 
 February.. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 October ... 
 November. 
 December 
 
 
 <u 
 
 nJ 
 
 Si- 
 
 66.5° 
 82.0 
 
 83 o 
 
 930 
 96.5 
 
 108.0 
 109.0 
 105.0 
 104.0 
 
 97.0 
 950 
 78.0 
 
 26.5° 
 
 28.0 
 
 32 
 
 35 
 
 .£ 
 
 0-= 
 
 4.28 
 1 . 76 
 
 •55 
 .06 
 
 •17 
 none, 
 none. 
 
 55 
 71 
 07 
 33 
 07 
 
 Q 
 
 O 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 II 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 14 
 
 27 
 
 25 
 26 
 
 14 
 
 Q 
 
 Q 
 
 7 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 none. 
 
 Q 
 
 none, 
 none. 
 
 J2. 
 bo 
 
 16 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 none, 
 none, 
 none, 
 none, 
 none, 
 none, 
 none, 
 none. 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 SANTA BARBARA. 
 Summary of Weather for li 
 
 Months. 
 
 January... 
 February.. 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 October 
 
 November 
 December 
 
 :^2 
 
 §22 
 
 54-4 
 52.6 
 56.6 
 56.3 
 59 o 
 62.5 
 67.0 
 69 I 
 
 69-3 
 63.0 
 58.8 
 51-9 
 
 as 
 
 S *- rt S ^- 
 
 "=1 a; 
 
 61.5 
 59-2 
 64 -5 
 62.8 
 64.0 
 
 70 5 
 78 2 
 
 76-5 
 77-5 
 72.5 
 65.5 
 61.5 
 
 47-5 
 47-5 
 50.0 
 51 2 
 
 55-7 
 56.2 
 
 61.5 
 63.0 
 
 73-0 
 58.2 
 
 53-0 
 43-5 
 
 W »— ( 
 
 a 
 '3 
 Pi 
 
 0-45 
 7 92 
 1.56 
 
 1-57 
 0.30 
 0.00 
 o .00 
 o .00 
 
 0.15 
 0.00 
 0.00 
 2-43 
 
 1^ 
 
 3-4 
 4 5 
 4.6 
 4.1 
 3-8 
 4-3 
 3 8 
 3-5 
 3 5 
 30 
 2.6 
 4-7 
 
 >> 
 
 M 
 
 ■rH 
 
 >> 
 
 •d 
 
 cS 
 
 > 6 
 
 Q 
 
 -D 
 
 u 
 
 
 c8 
 
 C^ 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 28 
 
 74 
 
 15 
 
 71 
 
 22 
 
 7S 
 
 22 
 
 76 
 
 10 
 
 72 
 
 24 
 
 78 
 
 21 
 
 75 
 
 26 
 
 69 
 
 23 
 
 75 
 
 17 
 
 70 
 
 22 
 
 61 
 
 24 
 
 as 
 P 
 
 o 
 U 
 
 The mean temperature of the year was 60°, differing by less than 
 one-tenth of a degree from the normal. 
 
 The highest temperature during the year was 96°, and lowest 33'^. 
 There were thirty-six days when the temperature rose above 80°, and 
 thirty-five nights when it did not fall below 60°. 
 
 Of the 365 days in the year, 254 were clear, 54 fair, and 57 
 cloudy. 
 
 Rain fell on twenty days, with a rainfall of 14.38 inches, being 
 2.7 inches below the average. Between the i8th of April and the 
 4th of December, a period of 230 days, the entire rainfall was less 
 than half an inch. 
 
 The average rainfall for twenty-four years was, in inches: Jan- 
 uary, 3.76; February, 3.80; March, 2.16; April, 1.45; Ma)^o.33; June, 
 o.ii; July, none; August, trace; September, o. 10; October, 0.77; 
 November, 1.69; December, 3.97. 
 
 FRESNO. 
 
 Summary of Weather for 1891. 
 
 Average temperature 63° 
 
 Highest temperature ..114', in July. 
 
 Lowest temperature 26°, in January. 
 
 Days temperature above 90*^ 87 
 
 Days temperature below 32'' 20 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 179 
 
 Mean humidity 55 per cent. 
 
 Total precipitation . 8.94 inches. 
 
 Clear days 235 
 
 Fair days _ 98 
 
 Cloudy days 32 
 
 Days .01 inches of rainfall 41 
 
 Thunder-storm i 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO. 
 Summary of Weather for 1891. 
 
 Average temperature _ 56.6° 
 
 Highest temperature 100® , June 29th . 
 
 Lowest temperature 37", December 25th. 
 
 Average humidity 80 per cent. 
 
 Total precipitation 21. 11 inches. 
 
 Maximum velocity of wind 48 miles. Feb. 22d. 
 
 Clear days 185 
 
 Fair days -.. 100 
 
 Cloudy days 80 
 
 Rainy days 81 
 
 Snow-storms o 
 
 Thunder and lightning o 
 
 Days temperature above 90° 3 
 
 Days temperature below 32° o 
 
 SACRAMENTO. 
 
 Weather Review for: 
 
 Average temper'ture 
 Highest temperature 
 Lowest temperature. 
 Average humidity... 
 Total precipitation.. 
 Maximum velocity of 
 
 wind 
 
 Clear days 
 
 Fair days 
 
 Cloudy days. .. 
 Days of precipitation 
 
 Snow-storms 
 
 Electric storms 
 
 Light frosts 
 
 Killing frosts 
 
 Days temp, above 90' 
 Days temp, below 32° 
 
 1882. 
 
 1883. 
 
 1884. 
 
 1885. 
 
 1886. 
 
 58.5 
 
 58.8 
 
 58.8 
 
 61.2 
 
 58.8 
 
 99 « 
 
 103-5 
 
 100. 
 
 105-5 
 
 105.0 
 
 27.0 
 66.0 
 
 22.0 
 69 
 
 21.0 
 70.7 
 
 34 2 
 67 8 
 
 275 
 
 70 I 
 
 18.04 
 
 13 48 
 
 34-92 
 
 20.72 
 
 18.17 
 
 36 
 
 249 
 
 76 
 
 36 
 
 263 
 
 76 
 
 36 
 
 239 
 68 
 
 36 
 
 227 
 
 88 
 
 44 
 
 262 
 76 
 
 40 
 70 
 
 26 
 
 54 
 
 59 
 76 
 
 50 
 62 
 
 27 
 57 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 69 
 
 33 
 
 31 
 
 24 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 40 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 43 
 
 45 
 
 22 
 
 49 
 
 45 
 
 5 
 
 27 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 1887. 
 
 1888. 
 
 1889. 
 
 1890. 
 
 59-9 
 
 60.6 
 
 60.9 
 
 59-4 
 
 100. 
 
 107-5 
 
 104.0 
 
 102.0 
 
 28.0 
 63-7 
 13-43 
 
 19.0 
 67.1 
 18.46 
 
 31.0 
 69.8 
 27.48 
 
 29.0 
 68.0 
 20 95 
 
 40 
 267 
 
 48 
 238 
 
 42 
 
 2X8 
 
 42 
 237 
 
 74 
 24 
 56 
 
 75 
 52 
 63 
 
 91 
 
 57 
 77 
 
 59 
 69 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 6 
 
 7 
 18 
 
 2 
 19 
 
 26 
 48 
 
 14 
 
 58 
 
 14 
 51 
 
 10 
 
 28 
 
 9 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 59-5 
 106.0 
 26.0 
 66.0 
 15-63 
 
 39 
 
 230 
 
 90 
 
 45 
 61 
 
 17 
 23 
 
 57 
 
180 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Industrial. — California produces more gold, more 
 wool, and more fruit than any other State in the Union. 
 Gold to the value of a few millions has been taken from 
 Southern California, but the great placer fields lie along 
 the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada in the northern part of 
 the State. A total of about $1,275,000,000 in gold has 
 been taken from California and about $40,000,000 of silver. 
 From 1850 to 1855 the annual output of gold averaged 
 $55,000,000, but it has greatly decreased in recent years. 
 The yearly product is lessened about $10,000,000 in conse- 
 quence of the law forbidding hydraulic mining in the 
 greater part of the State, because the voluminous washing 
 away of large bodies of earth by that process injured the 
 agricultural lands and the navigable rivers which received 
 the enormous floods of detritus. Efforts are periodically 
 made to have this prohibition rescinded, but thus far 
 without success. 
 
 In other minerals the State has proven exceedingly 
 rich, copper, lead, iron, graphite, coal, petroleum, as- 
 phaltum, gypsum, borax, salt, sulphur, asbestos, soda, 
 nitre, etc., being largely produced. The commoner build- 
 ing-stones are also plentifully quarried. Some 30,000 
 men are engaged in the different branches of mining. 
 
 The annual wheat yield is about 35,000,000 bushels. 
 Dairies produce 15,000,000 pounds of cheese and butter. 
 The conversion of cattle into beef reaches the value of 
 $30,000,000. The wool industry yields over 30,000,000 
 pounds; 15,000,000 gallons of wine are manufactured, of 
 which 3,000,000 gallons are converted into sweet wine and 
 brandy. 
 
 Hay and root crops are very valuable, and sugar is a 
 large commercial item, many thousand acres being de- 
 voted to the sugar-beet. Hops and tobacco are raised 
 in considerable quantity, although the rank growth of 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 181 
 
 tobacco in California is not favorable to the best 
 quality. 
 
 There are millions upon millions of fruit trees in bear- 
 ing, and an enormous number of new orchards are planted 
 every year. The fruits, berries, and nuts of the upper 
 north temperate zone grow side by side with the orange, 
 lemon, lime, pomegranate, prune, olive, fig, almond, peach, 
 apricot, persimmon, and guava. The English walnut and 
 the palm thrive in the same garden, and the strawberry 
 and the banana are neighbors. 
 
 The time of the year at which the principal fruits of 
 California are ripe is noted below: 
 
 Oranges Christmas to July. 
 
 Lemons All the year. 
 
 Limes _ All the year. 
 
 Figs July to Christmas. 
 
 Almonds . October. 
 
 Apples July to November. 
 
 Pears. July to November. 
 
 Grapes July 1 5th to December. 
 
 Peaches.. June 15th to Christmas. 
 
 Apricots. June 1 5th to September. 
 
 Plums and prunes June ist to November. 
 
 Cherries June. 
 
 Japanese persimmons November. 
 
 Guavas Nearly all the year. 
 
 Loquats May 1 5th to June 1 5th. 
 
 Strawberries Nearly all the year round. 
 
 Raspberries June 15th to January. 
 
 Blackberries. ...June 15th to September. 
 
 Currants May 15th to June 15th. 
 
 Watermelons July to October. 
 
 Muskmelons July to October. 
 
 Mulberries July to December. 
 
 Nectarines August. 
 
 Olives December to January. 
 
 Pomegranates September to December, 
 
 Quinces October to December. 
 
182 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 For the general information of the inquiring reader 
 some account of the methods and profits of a few of the 
 most important fruit, berry, and nut-growing industries of 
 the State is appended. The figures given have been col- 
 lated from sources which are believed to be reliable, but 
 are not furnished with any intent of persuading the 
 reader that his fortune surely lies in an orchard or vine- 
 yard in California or elsewhere. The fruit business is by 
 no means all poetry, and not every investment is rewarded 
 by success. Intelligence and eternal vigilance are essen- 
 tial in this as in other enterprises for the making of 
 money. An orchard is generally prompt to resent neglect 
 or wrong treatment, and it is all-important to secure a 
 proper location in the beginning, where soil and local 
 climate are suitable. And it is well to remember that 
 the greatest successes in fruit raising are naturally accom- 
 plished by the expert growers, and that assumed success 
 is the basis of the figures quoted. 
 
 The Orange. — The orange trees now growing in Cal- 
 ifornia number nearly 4,000,000, of which 94 per cent 
 (3,720,257 trees) are in the six southern counties, as follows: 
 
 San Bernardino County _. .2,287,200 
 
 San Diego County 204,026 
 
 Ventura County 63,700 
 
 Los Angeles County 987,102 
 
 Orange County 134,029 
 
 Santa Barbara County 44,200 
 
 These counties, comprising the region known as the 
 Citrus Belt, now export approximately 4,000 car-loads of 
 oranges, and for every tree in bearing there are three not 
 yet productive. The Washington Navel, brought from 
 Brazil and first domesticated at Riverside, is the favorite. 
 The Seedling is also very popular at Riverside. This tree 
 is slower in maturing, and bears smaller fruit, but larger 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 183 
 
 crops, and it is very long-lived. The Mediterranean Sweet, 
 Valencia, Malta Blood, and Tangerine complete the list of 
 principal varieties grown. 
 
 The length of time required for an orange orchard to 
 come into full bearing, and the cost of bringing it to 
 that point, is considerable. The land, in the first place, 
 
 ORANGE GROVE, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 costs more than farm land in the Eastern States, but it 
 gives very much greater returns for w^ell-directed effort. 
 Two hundred and fifty dollars an acre is regarded as a 
 fair average price for orange land in Southern California, 
 with ample irrigation facilities attached, in a district 
 where the cultivation of the citrus fruits has proven a 
 success. In many places of long-established reputation 
 
184 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 the prices range from $450 to $750 per acre. The expendi- 
 ture involved in rearing an orange orchard to the end of 
 the third year, when it should pay interest upon the 
 investment at the rate of 10 per cent, is approximately 
 as follows : 
 
 Ten acres of land _ $2,500 
 
 Preparing the ground. 50 
 
 One thousand trees 1,000 
 
 Planting complete 50 
 
 Water first year 30 
 
 Care of orchard first year _ _ 200 
 
 Incidentals 70 
 
 $3,900 
 The two following years, counting interest at 8 per 
 
 cent, will cost 1,320 
 
 Total cost after three years $5,220 
 
 It is assumed in the above computation that the trees 
 planted are two-year-old buds on three-year-old roots. 
 Five years thereafter each tree should bear from one to 
 one and a half boxes, and the total crop of the ten acres 
 should be worth from $2,000 to $3,000. Six hundred 
 dollars an acre net profit, however, has been realized from 
 full-bearing orchards. 
 
 The Lemon. — The culture of the lemon is much the 
 same as that of the orange, and the profits do not greatly 
 differ. Lemon culture in California was long retarded by 
 the difificulty of curing the fruit, as, although it has a seem- 
 ingly tough rind, it is very sensitive to rough handling, 
 and can spoil quickly. It is now successfully cured, all its 
 quality being retained for many months after picking, and 
 in consequence the producer is not compelled to sacrifice 
 his crop at unprofitable prices, but can wait for a good 
 market, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 185 
 
 Southern California has 397,792 lemon trees, 96 per 
 cent of all that the State contains. Less than one-fourth 
 of these are in bearing, yet the product is already 800 car- 
 loads a year. The Lisbon and the Eureka are the leading 
 varieties. 
 
 The Grape. — Enor- 
 mous quantities of 
 choice grapes are 
 grown for table use, 
 and for raisins, wine, 
 and brandy. The 
 mission lands gave 
 to the successors of 
 the Spaniard a pala- 
 table grape, but this 
 has been supplanted 
 by many improved 
 varieties, of which 
 there are the Flame 
 Tokay, Champagne, 
 and Black Hamburg 
 for the table, the 
 Muscat and Seedless 
 Sultana for raisins, 
 and the French and 
 Spanish varieties for 
 wine and brandy. 
 
 To plant, irrigate, 
 and care for a raisin 
 vineyard to the end 
 of the second year costs about $85 per acre. The yield 
 in the third year is 50 boxes; fourth year, 100 boxes; 
 fifth year, 200 boxes; and after that there is a small 
 increase. Raisins are worth from $1 to $1.50 a box. The 
 
 ^>«H-^ 
 
 A CALIFORNIA GRAPEVINK. 
 
186 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 cost of cultivating is $15 per acre, and of curing and pack- 
 ing 40 cents per box. In many localities the raisin grape 
 is raised without irrigation. The fogless interior valleys 
 are best adapted to this industry. Two and a half million 
 boxes was the raisin product of California in 1891. 
 
 TJie Prune. — Prunes are grafted on plum stock, and 
 are planted about twenty-five feet apart, at the rate of 100 
 trees to the acre. The fourth year after planting the 
 yield is about 10 pounds per tree, the fifth year 60 pounds, 
 and the sixth year 120 pounds. Thereafter the yield 
 ranges from 150 pounds to 300 pounds. They are not 
 picked, but shaken from the tree, at intervals covering 
 most of the month of August, the ripest hanging most 
 loosely to the stem. Prunes are dried before shipment. 
 The ripe fruit — called " green " to distinguish it from the 
 dried article — is dipped in a wire basket into boiling 
 water to which concentrated lye has been added, and then 
 laid upon trays and dried in the sun. A finishing gloss 
 for market may then be added by dipping in pure boiling 
 water. This process is for those that are dried whole. 
 They are also split and stoned before drying. The French 
 and the Silver prune are favorites. 
 
 The California product of prunes is 20,000,000 pounds. 
 The cost of rearing a ten-acre prune orchard to the end 
 of the fourth year, the land costing $150 per acre, has 
 been figured at $2,750. From the fifth year onward a net 
 profit of from $150 to $300 per acre may be expected. 
 
 The Olive. — The olive tree reaches a maximum height 
 of twenty feet. It has evergreen leaves and minute white 
 blossoms in small clusters. The fruit is of a black-red 
 color when ripe, and very bitter. Over twenty varieties 
 are enumerated by the French. It is propagated very 
 easily, by grafting upon seedlings, or from truncheons, 
 from cuttings of stems and roots, and from suckers, layers 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 187 
 
 and protuberances, planted in the ground. It begins to 
 bear in from three to five years from planting of one-year- 
 old rooted cuttings. In seven years the yield should be a 
 gallon of olives to a tree, and increases steadily for many 
 years. Olive trees live and are fruitful for centuries. 
 There are some now in existence in the Old World which 
 are believed to antedate the Christian era. 
 
 The primitive man who first tasted an olive, and in the 
 bitterness of that experience had faith to persist in dis- 
 covering a use for it, is worthy of as great an admiration as 
 he who first ate an oyster. Fair as a plum in its appearance, 
 the essence of gall is not more execrable than its taste. 
 
 In most American homes, in regions where the olive 
 does not grow, it is commonly used as a relish, and the 
 taste is acquired rather than natural; and the liberal use 
 of its oil is not common there. This is accounted for by 
 two reasons. First, the common pickled olive of com- 
 merce is not the oil berry, and is consequently deficient 
 in flavor and nutriment. Secondly, what is termed olive 
 oil in the Eastern States is, many chances to one, largely 
 composed of the oil of cotton seed, mustard seed, and the 
 peanut, or other adulterants. It is, therefore, not to be 
 wondered at that the articles which go by the name of 
 olive oil have not recommended themselves more favor- 
 ably to the average American palate. 
 
 The Franciscan friars brought with them cuttings 
 from the choicest olive trees in Spain, and the Mission 
 olive contains five times as much oil as the Queen olive. 
 It is a soft-fleshed, oleaginous berry, grateful to the palate 
 when properly pickled, and may be freely eaten without 
 satiety or injury. It is a food claimed to be as nutritious 
 as the best beef, pound for pound, and day laborers can 
 work indefinitely on no other diet than this bitter berry, 
 soaked in lye, washed in water, and plunged into brine. 
 
188 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The manufacture of olive oil is a nice process, requir- 
 ing the absolute exclusion of deleterious odors, which it is 
 quick to absorb. The ripe berries, having first been par- 
 tially dried, are ground to a pumice and repeatedly placed 
 under heavy pressure. The oil thus expressed falls into 
 tanks of pure water, from whose surface it is collected. 
 The further process of ripening and filtering requires 
 skill and a rigid observance of proper conditions. 
 
 These products in California are greatly superior to the 
 imported articles. Up to the present time they have been 
 almost wholly consumed within the State, but it seems 
 probable that the greater output of the thousands of 
 young orchards now growing will find a ready market in 
 other States by reason of superior merit alone. Pickled 
 olives here are worth about 75 cents per gallon, and 
 the oil about $5. The berry yields from 10 to 20 per 
 cent of its weight in oil. A fully developed tree has 
 been known to yield sixteen gallons of oil. Its longevity 
 gave rise to the old Italian proverb that '' He who plants 
 an olive orchard leaves an inheritance for future genera- 
 tions." It may be counted upon for 300 years of pro- 
 ductiveness. It thrives on hillside soil without irrigation, 
 but while it is in many respects hardy and free from 
 parasitic pests, it is easily injured by rough handling. At 
 seven years from planting the gross return per acre has 
 been figured at $500. 
 
 The literature of the olive contains much that is of 
 interest. It begins, of course, at the point when Noah's 
 dove went back to the ark with an olive branch, for such 
 a beginning has so manifest an advantage in establishing 
 at once a respectable antiquity for the subject, no writer 
 seems willing to forego it. The olive must have been 
 treasured high in the hearts of mankind, even at that 
 remote epoch, to be identified with so momentous an occa- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 189 
 
 sion, and ever since the flood it has stood for an overture 
 of peace and good will among men. Its leaves were the 
 laurel wreath of the Greeks, typical of vitality and lon- 
 gevity, and were mingled in the triumphal crowns of 
 Roman heroes. It 
 also possesses the dig- 
 nity of intimate asso- 
 ciation with Christian 
 story, as Gethsemane 
 means an oil-press, 
 and stood upon the 
 Mount of Olives. For 
 thousands of years 
 the olive has yielded 
 food, light, and medi- 
 cine for innumerable 
 generations, a staple 
 luxury to the rich and 
 a cheap and sufficient 
 nutriment to multi- 
 tudes of the poor who 
 have scarce known 
 the use of meat ex- 
 cept by hearsa}^ It 
 was native to Pales- 
 tine and Asia Minor, 
 from which countries 
 it was early carried 
 to Northern Europe, 
 Western Asia, and 
 Northern Africa. It was brought to South America and 
 Mexico two centuries ago, and introduced into our South 
 Atlantic States not long before the Revolution. The 
 Mission fathers brought it to California. Ancient his- 
 
 ^KV'f^ = 
 
 
 TWENTY MINUTES FROM AN ORANGE GROVE. 
 
190 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tory, both sacred and profane, abounds in allusions to 
 it. The oil mentioned in Holy Writ was that of the 
 olive. The Good Samaritan poured it into the wounds 
 of the poor wayfarer, and the Wise Virgins filled their 
 lamps with it. The Greeks used it for outward appli- 
 cation in their gymnasiums, for Athens was a center 
 of olive culture, and the Romans imitated them in its 
 use; and not a few proininent physicians in California 
 regard anointing with olive oil as a valuable adjunct in 
 the art of healing. 
 
 TJie Walnut. — The valleys of Southern California are 
 particularly favorable to the culture of the walnut, of 
 which there are many varieties, differing in hardness of 
 shell, of which the " improved soft-shell " is regarded as 
 most profitable. A deep alluvial soil, with good drainage, 
 is best adapted to this nut. The trees grow to a large 
 size, and should be set at least fifty feet apart to insure 
 separation when the full growth has been attained. The 
 soft-shell walnut tree begins to bear when five years old, 
 and at ten years is in full bearing, in proportion to its 
 capacity, although it continues to increase in size for 
 many years thereafter. At sixteen years of age a walnut 
 tree should have produced a total of i,ooo pounds of nuts, 
 which are worth from 7^ to 8^ cents per pound. The 
 nuts are dried in trays and assorted by running through 
 a grader. The largest bearing walnut orchard in the 
 world is one of 200 acres at Carpinteria, in Santa Bar- 
 bara County. From Rivera, near Los Angeles, forty- 
 seven car-loads of walnuts are shipped annually. 
 
 The Almond, — The almond tree differs from the apple, 
 peach, cherry, and plum in the particular that it is always 
 grafted or budded. The other trees named usually pro- 
 duce more and better fruit when similarly treated than if 
 allowed to mature from the seed, but the fruit of their 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 191 
 
 seedling's is sure to be marketable at some price, and 
 often turns out to be a superior variety. The seedling 
 almond, however, while subject to the same possibility, 
 usually proves worthless, and its fruit is often deadly 
 poisonous. There is a tendency to frequent reversion to 
 antecedent types throughout the animal and vegetable 
 kingdoms, technically known as atavism, and this tend- 
 ency is particularly strong in the almond, as if its evolu- 
 tion had been too recent for the approved type to have 
 become firmly set. And even among carefully budded or 
 grafted trees there w411 occasionally be some that never 
 bear at all, or bear nuts that are worthless. 
 
 The almond blooms early in spring and matures late in 
 the fall. It belongs to the same family as the peach, but its 
 quality goes to the pit, or nut, instead of to the flesh of 
 the envelope, or drupe. It has no parasite enemies, and 
 is easily cultivated. The varieties are differentiated, like 
 those of the walnut, by the thickness or fragility of the 
 shell, the paper-shell variety being most highly esteemed. 
 After husking, the nuts are sun-dried and bleached with 
 the fumes of sulphur before they are ready for market. 
 The almond is the most precious of orchard products, 
 pound for pound, and American consumers yearly spend 
 more money for this than for all other nuts together. 
 The tree is said to be somewhat capricious as to locality, 
 although it will thrive on land that is too poor for 
 peaches or apricots. It bears in four years from planting, 
 and yields a net profit of $ioo per acre. The almond does 
 not yet count among the important products of California, 
 but has begun to receive more general attention than was 
 formerly accorded to it. 
 
 TJie Fig. — Although the fig tree thrives generally in 
 Southern California, most of the orchards are still young, 
 having been planted within the last half-dozen years. It 
 
192 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 fruits young, cuttings generally bearing a few figs the 
 next year after planting. Ten tons have been gathered 
 from an acre of sixteen-year-old trees, worth $50 a ton 
 delivered at the local curing establishment. 
 
 The Apricot. — The apricot is a fruit that does well 
 near the coast. It follows the strawberry and cherry in 
 order of ripening. From $75 to $150 an acre net profit 
 from an orchard five years old is considered a fair average. 
 The apricot is largely canned and dried. 
 
 Peaches, nectarines, apples, pears, cherries, guavas, 
 persimmons (Japanese), loquats (Japanese plums), pome- 
 granates, and enormous quantities of strawberries, black- 
 berries, raspberries, gooseberries, etc., are commonly 
 raised, and pineapples, dates, and bananas are grown on a 
 small scale in favorable localities. 
 
 Ostrich Farming. — There are perhaps half a dozen 
 ostrich farms in Southern California. The enterprise is 
 by no means a purely fanciful one. These birds thrive 
 and multiply and yield valuable plumes as well among the 
 California hills as in their native Africa, and the pioneers 
 of the experiment maintain that in time the industry will 
 prove profitable and comparatively general, not only in 
 this State but in parts of Arizona and New Mexico as well. 
 The largest farm is between Oceanside and Fall Brook, 
 about twelve miles from the former. 
 
 The ostrich is a mere other-hemisphere curiosity when 
 viewed in a menagerie. Here, where he roams with scores 
 of his fellows over 160 acres of grass-grown hills, he is at 
 home, and his habits and personality become an easy and 
 entertaining study. A three-months'-old " chick " is no 
 chicken in appearance, for it stands fully four feet high 
 and looks as if it might have had at least two birthdays. 
 Nevertheless, the female does not mature until four years 
 old, nor does the raale until five. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST 
 
 193 
 
 The color of the young birds is brown in general effect, 
 and the hen remains of that hue. The cock, as he nears 
 maturity, turns a deep, glossy black, with a row of pure 
 white plumes among those of jet; down the front of each 
 leg is a stripe of brilliant red, and a ring of the same 
 
 OSTRICHES, CALIFORNIA. 
 
 color surrounds his big, savage eyes, for the cock ostrich 
 is a ferocious creature at times, and even the hens must 
 be handled with skill. As fast as the birds pair, the 
 couple are confined in a paddock about an acre in extent. 
 The hen begins to lay soon after the rains come, one egg 
 every other day until the nest — a careless excavation 
 three feet across, scratched in the sand — contains any- 
 where from eight to fifteen eggs, according to her humor, 
 or her ability to count. 
 
 The cock does the principal part of the labor of setting. 
 Every afternoon exactly at 4 o'clock he relieves his mate, 
 
 13 
 
194 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and never quits the nest until 8 o'clock next morning-, thus 
 giving the female a short watch of only eight hours out 
 of the twenty-four, and all daylight at that. The prac- 
 tice, however, is to remove the eggs to an incubator as 
 fast as laid, and in that case the hen will lay as many as 
 twenty-five or thirty before taking a rest. 
 
 An interval of five or six weeks ensues, and then she 
 resumes laying. Thus the ostrich farmer counts upon 
 three periods of productiveness from his breeders in a 
 year, aggregating from seventy-five to ninety eggs from 
 each laying hen, although, as in the case of fowls, not all 
 the eggs are fertile. The eggs hatch in forty days here — 
 two days sooner than in Africa. The unmated birds are 
 allowed to herd, and are called the '' feather troop." 
 
 The plumes are plucked once in eight months. The 
 first plucking takes place when the chick is six months 
 old. The feathers then are small and of an inferior 
 quality, and are used in the manufacture of feather 
 dusters. In the vernacular of the African Boers, these 
 first feathers are "spadones." At one year old the chick 
 yields feathers fit for use in trimmings. At two years a 
 respectable plume is obtained, and thereafter the ostrich 
 is a ripe and regular plume-producer. Of plumes there 
 are four rows on each wing, and in each row twenty-six 
 plumes, every one after its own kind, both in color and 
 size, in any given row. The tail plumes are termed 
 "boos." 
 
 An ostrich-plucking is an interesting operation. The 
 regular " feather troop " are rather docile if unmolested, 
 but highly excitable, and are dangerous kickers on small 
 provocation unless they are first blindfolded. Conse- 
 quently they are called into a paddock and fed, and while 
 they are busily engaged in picking up the corn or chopped 
 beets that have been thrown them, two trained men 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 195 
 
 quietly approach and dexterously seize a bird by the neck 
 and at the same instant thrust a long hood, not unlike a 
 huge stocking, over its head. 
 
 It is then forced into a railed inclosure about three 
 feet square and a gate is shut behind it. Thus hooded, 
 the ostrich requires muscular men to hold it, but it rarely 
 shows fight. The plumes are then carefully snipped off 
 one by one, and the stub of the quill allowed to remain 
 imtil its juices have been diverted into other growing 
 feathers and it has become transparent to the eye. This 
 requires but a few days, and then the stub is pulled out. 
 After plucking, the bird's thigh is daubed with red paint 
 before it is turned loose, and when the quill stubs have 
 been extracted a second marking is made, so that a glance 
 will discover the condition of any bird in the troop. 
 
 When, however, a breeding cock is to be shorn of his 
 plumes, the operation requires more nerve, address, and 
 strength. He is as dangerous as a vicious bull at almost 
 any hour of the day. If you but approach his paddock 
 closely he will generally trot up to the fence and peer 
 over and down upon you, opening his short, stout beak 
 with a hiss, and looking bullets and bludgeons at you out 
 of his wicked eyes. He fights with his queer, two-toed, 
 hoof-like feet, and kicks forward, something as a pugilist 
 delivers his blow, sometimes from a standstill and some- 
 times while running upon his adversary. 
 
 Owing to the pugnacious temper of the breeding cock, 
 therefore, the ordinary stratagem of throwing it food is 
 of no avail. When the hour for his plucking arrives, he is 
 taunted and challenged to come to the fence and fight, if by 
 any chance he does not propose it himself, and in the melee 
 he is caught around the neck by strong arms and hooded. 
 He is then harmless, although the combined strength of 
 two men is exhausted by the time his plucking is finished. 
 
196 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The average weight of a full-grown cock is 175 pounds. 
 Each bird yields at a plucking, on an average, one and 
 one-fourth pounds of plumes. Some of these are the 
 "prime white," and sell for $75 a pound at wholesale, 
 although as much as $7.50 is sometimes received for a 
 single plume of super excellence. 
 
 Others are the "long black," next in value, the "long 
 drab" (from the female), " medium," and "short." The 
 average value of a plucking from a single bird is $35, 
 and as it is plucked three times in two years the value of 
 the annual product in plumes is about $50 for each bird. 
 
 The life of an ostrich is commonly thirty years. They 
 are sold at from $30, the price of a chick, to $300 for a 
 three-year-old bird. A breeding pair is valued at $1,000. 
 
 PRINCIPAL POINTS OF INTEREST. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Mellen, Beal. 
 
 Needles. — Chicago, 1,955 miles; St. Louis, 1,815 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 310 miles; San Diego, 393 miles; San Francisco, 622 miles. 
 Altitude, 476 feet. Dining station. 
 
 Approaching this desert station the hovels of the 
 Mojave and Chimehuevi Indians are seen on the flats by 
 the wayside. There are about 800 of the Mojaves remain- 
 ing. The men are well built and are not bad looking for 
 Indians. They are fleet runners and capable of covering 
 an extraordinary distance in a short time. The women 
 are unprepossessing. A number of Mojave squaws are 
 always seen at the station on arrival of trains, eager to 
 sell pottery, toys, and bows and arrows to tourists. This 
 tribe lost its formidable character thirty years ago, when 
 Colonel Hoffman of the regular service gave it a crushing 
 defeat. Lieutenant Ives found stanch and manly char- 
 acters among them, but they are now a disreputable, beg- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 197 
 
 garly lot, offering- another example of the singular demor- 
 alization of the Red Man that has resulted from contact 
 with a superior race. 
 
 The Mojave Desert. — Westward from Needles the 
 Atlantic & Pacific Railroad runs for 240 miles over the 
 Mojave Desert, to the station Mojave. This is merely a 
 section of the Great Desert belt which in this longitude 
 extends across the whole of the United States from north 
 to south, and intercepts every transcontinental railroad. 
 Except in the extreme north this desert belt is very warm 
 in midsummer, through the day. The greater part of the 
 Mojave Desert is, however, commonly crossed in the 
 night by the trains of the Santa Fe Route, the schedule 
 being purposely arranged to escape the discomforts of a 
 transit by day. But even by day there is enough of 
 interest in the scene to reward one for its heat and fatigue. 
 Rock, alkali, scoriae, cactus, yucca, and sage-brush are 
 invested with a certain charm by reason of the absence of 
 animation from all the landscape, and the eye ranges 
 far to huge mountain masses upon the horizon, blue with 
 distance. It is not a desert in the sense of being- an 
 unbroken waste of sand, but a vast barren, extremely arid 
 and apparently hopeless. Only at long intervals is there 
 a cluster of human habitations. The desert lies like a 
 grim barrier against approach to the garden of California, 
 a thing stripped of its terrors only by the locomotive. 
 This route by the way of The Needles was never a 
 thoroughfare tmtil the railroad was built. The Forty- 
 niners went to California overland, by routes far to the 
 north and to the south; across the desert, indeed, but by 
 no short cut. If the old-time caravans could have arrived 
 thus far without molestation by Indians, it is doubtful if 
 they could have found water with sufficient frequency to 
 support life in traversing this desolate tract. But the age 
 
.198 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of steam has subdued it. It has no longer power to dis- 
 turb the traveler's sleep for a single night. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Java, Klinefelter, Ibex, 
 Homer, Blake, Fenner, Edson, Danby, Cadiz, Bristol, 
 Amboy. 
 
 Blake is a junction point with the Nevada Southern 
 Railway, recently constructed and now in operation to 
 Manvel, a distance of thirty miles. 
 
 Bag"Clad. — Chicago, 2,046 miles; St. Louis, 1,906 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 219 miles; San Diego, 302 miles; San Francisco, 531 
 miles. Altitude, 782 feet. Dining station. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Siberia, Ash Hill, Ludlow, 
 Lavic, Haslett, Newberry. 
 
 Dag'g'ett. —Chicago, 2,114 miles; St. Louis, 1,974 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 151 miles; San Diego, 234 miles; San Francisco, 463 miles. 
 Altitude, 2,000 feet. 
 
 North of Daggett lies Death Valley, often erroneously 
 spoken and written of as located in the vicinity of Salton, 
 on the Southern Pacific Railroad, in the extreme southern 
 part of California. It is a sunken basin 285 feet below 
 sea-level, surrounded by mountains. Its lugubrious name 
 was derived from the experience of a company of Argo- 
 nauts, and Amargosa (Bitter) River, Furnace Creek, 
 Funeral Mountains, and the like are also descriptive of 
 the locality. In the early days of the excitement follow- 
 ing the discovery of gold in California, thousands of gold- 
 seekers made their way overland by every available route. 
 One of these routes led through Salt Lake City, and 
 across nearly a thousand miles of alkali plain and desert 
 that intervened between the Mormon settlements and the 
 Sierra Nevada Range. One party, numbering about 
 seventy, including women and children, was induced to 
 deflect southward from the regular wagon trail across 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 199 
 
 Nevada, in the belief that more abundant water would 
 thus be found, and the hardships and perils of the journey 
 much abated. It was a march to death. One after another 
 the oxen died of thirst and starvation, and one after 
 another of the party succumbed and was buried in the 
 sands of the relentless desert. On arriving at the summit 
 of the Funeral Range it became necessary to cross a deep 
 valley which stretched between that range and the Para- 
 
 CAJON PASS. 
 
 mint Mountains, and they descended hopefully in the 
 delusion that the white reflection from the bottom 
 indicated the presence of a body of water. They found 
 only alkali marshes, salt hillocks, and sand-dunes. There 
 the destruction of the party was completed, save only two 
 men, Bennett and Stockton, who succeeded in reaching 
 the California settlements. The rest perished, either 
 within the valley or in the wilderness, over which they 
 scattered panic-stricken in a mad individual search for 
 water. That episode gave the valley its name, and the 
 
200 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 story is rendered more pathetic by the subsequent discov- 
 ery by prospectors of fresh- water springs not far from the 
 spot where the tragedy culminated. Similar instances of 
 death from thirst within reach of unsuspected means of 
 salvation have occurred elsewhere on the desert. In some 
 arid localities water lies very near the surface of barren 
 sands, and has been known to form a pool by "seeping" 
 into the slight depression made by the tread of a gathered 
 bunch of buffalo or cattle. In Texas a party of emigrants 
 once perished of thirst upon a spot where those who dis- 
 covered their bodies struck water in digging their graves. 
 
 Twenty years ago silver and gold were discovered in 
 Death Valley, on the slopes of the Paramint Range, and 
 the evil reputation of the place was enhanced by the 
 dismal fate of not a few prospectors who wandered too 
 far from the infrequent water-holes. Large deposits of 
 borax were also discovered there, and a line of freight 
 wagons was established between the valley and Daggett 
 for the transportation of this commodity, afterward aban- 
 doned because of the great cost of teaming across a 
 mountainous desert where for seventy-five miles at one 
 stretch from Daggett there is no sign of water, and because 
 the fearful heat of summer in the furnace-like basin per- 
 mitted the work to be carried on only through a portion 
 of the year. 
 
 In 1 89 1 the region was scientifically explored by natur- 
 alists employed by the United States Department of 
 Agriculture. The mountains are described by one of the 
 party as brilliantly colored masses of black, yellow, blood- 
 red, gray, and brown. Yuccas, cacti, and in the upper 
 cafions many varieties of wild-flowers, in season, abound. 
 The waters of the Amargosa, after flowing for eighty miles, 
 are completely absorbed by Death Valley. They are 
 strongly impregnated with soda and borax, and are 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 201 
 
 exceedingly poisonous to drink. Some of the noblest 
 mountain-peaks in the world are there visible, but the 
 tourist might almost as reasonably leap into the crater of 
 Vesuvius as to commit himself to the perils of a visit to 
 the spot. The world probably does not contain a more 
 terrible region. 
 
 Barstow.— Chicago, 2,124 miles; St. Louis, 1,984 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 141 miles; San Diego, 224 miles; San Francisco, 453 miles. 
 Altitude, 2,105 feet. Dining station. Junction with Southern Cali- 
 fornia Railway. 
 
 Trains for Southern California here turn south, and for 
 those trains the time here changes one hour. 
 
 Barstow is an unimportant distributing point for scat- 
 tered mining properties. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Waterman, Hinckley, Har- 
 per, Kramer, Rogers, Bissell. 
 
 Mojave. — Chicago, 2,195 miles; St. Louis, 2,055 miles; San 
 Francisco, 382 miles. Altitude, 2,737 feet. Dining station. 
 
 This is merely a junction point with the Southern 
 Pacific Railroad, and the end of the Atlantic & Pacific 
 Railroad. Trains from Los Angeles to San Francisco 
 pass through Mojave, and the through cars destined to 
 San Francisco over the Santa Fe Route are attached to 
 those trains at this point. 
 
 Here the time changes one hour, as it changed at 
 Barstow for trains turning south from that point, Bar- 
 stow being a southern boundary, and Mojave a south- 
 western boundary, of the mountain division of standard 
 time. 
 
 The plan of this guide-book now reverts to Barstow 
 and accompanies the traveler destined to Southern Cali- 
 fornia. On page 238 the journey to San Francisco is 
 resumed. 
 
202 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Barstow to San Bernardino. — Northwest of Los An- 
 geles an arm of the Coast Range, known as the Sierra 
 Madre, and also as the San Bernardino Range, stretches 
 eastward for loo miles to Mount San Bernardino, beyond 
 which it turns taperingly to the southeast. Leaving 
 Barstow the northern slope of this range is climbed, cross- 
 ing the Mojave River, and the passage made through 
 Cajon Pass at an altitude of less than 4,000 feet, although 
 San Bernardino Peak itself rises to a height of more than 
 11,000. The approach to the pass is not particularly 
 impressive, except by reason of the sterility of the adja- 
 cent country and the extraordinary rockiness of certain 
 localities. There are points where it would seem impossi- 
 ble to have brought horses or mules in making the original 
 railroad survey, in consequence of the dense litter of sharp 
 rock fragments. A few small stations are scattered along 
 the ascent of this slope, which are tributary to mining 
 properties a dozen miles distant from the railroad. There 
 are deposits of gold, silver, tin, and iron, and valuable 
 quarries of Verde Antique marble. Oro Grande and Vic- 
 tor are examples of such stations, thirty-one and thirty- 
 seven miles, respectively, from Barstow. Hesperia, forty- 
 five miles from Barstow, is the seat of a small colony 
 devoted to raisin growing. In the vicinity of Hesperia the 
 Yucca brevifolia is particularly abundant. This aesthetic 
 tree is often erroneously called a palm. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Cottonwood, Point of Rocks, 
 Oro Grande, Victor, Hesperia. 
 
 Summit. — Chicago, 2,180 miles; St. Louis, 2,040 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 85 miles; San Diego, 168 miles. Altitude, 3,8ig feet. 
 
 This is the summit of Cajon Pass, whose descent, im- 
 mediately following, affords through many miles a series 
 of mountain views of great beauty. Between Summit 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 203 
 
 and Cajon, the station six miles beyond, are roofed ter- 
 races on both sides of the track, an engineering device to 
 prevent the softening of the earth in times of heavy rain 
 and the consequent landslides that formerly filled up these 
 deep cuts and completely blocked the railroad. 
 
 InteriMEDiate Stations: Cajon, Keenbrook, Irvington. 
 
 Highland Junction. — Two miles north of San Bernardino. 
 Altitude, 1,138 feet. Junction with the Belt Line, known as the Kite- 
 shaped Track, of which further mention will be made in its place. 
 
 San Bernardino. — Chicago, 2,205 miles; St. Louis, 2,065 
 miles; Los Angeles, 60 miles; San Diego, 143 miles. Dining station. 
 Altitude, 1,075 feet. Population, 4,012. Diverging point of short 
 line to San Diego from main line to Los Angeles. 
 
 San Bernardino was settled by Mormons more than 
 forty years ago, but its greatest growth has been attained 
 in the last half-dozen years. It is environed by many 
 orange orchards and vineyards. Fruit-canning and the 
 manufacture of flour, lumber, bricks, and carriages are 
 among its industries, and it contains the customary shops 
 and engine-houses of a railroad division point. It pos- 
 sesses handsome residences and business blocks, and 
 excellent hotels. 
 
 The peaks of Mounts San Bernardino (ii,8oo feet) and 
 San Antonio (10,894 feet) are visible from the station, and 
 a third conspicuous object is a gigantic bare spot, 1,300 
 feet long and 450 feet wide, on the mountain slopes six 
 miles away, presenting a striking likeness to a stone 
 arrow-head. It marks the location of Arrowhead Springs, 
 an attractive and popular resort. 
 
 Stages regularly run to Arrowhead Springs and also to 
 Bear Valley, a mountain resort thirty miles from San Ber- 
 nardino, where trout-fishing is reported to be had in Bear 
 Valley Lake, and good shooting in the forest. Here is 
 the reservoir of the Bear Valley Irrigation Company. 
 
204 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 From San Bernardino the railroad line runs due we.st 
 to Los Angeles, and thence southeast to San Diego. The 
 short line cuts off a portion of this corner, saving a dis- 
 tance of forty-four tniles, and through cars to San Diego 
 are commonly run over this intercepting line, which meets 
 the other at Orange, thirty-one miles below Los Angeles. 
 
 The traveler journeying direct to San Diego by way of 
 the short line is referred to page 224. 
 
 San Bernardino to Los Angeles. — Against the foot 
 of the Sierra Madre or San Bernardino Range is nestled 
 a chain of towns, most of which are small, and do not 
 greatly differ in character. Some are the centers of 
 colonies, simultaneous settlements of irrigable tracts, 
 where by virtue of combined effort a greater development 
 and one more profitable to the individual has resulted 
 than would have been possible to unaided individual 
 enterprise. All the California fruits in varying quantity 
 are cultivated, and fruit-drying and packing, and wine- 
 making, are common industries. 
 
 Rialto.— Four miles from San Bernardino. Altitude, 1,201 feet. 
 Population (precinct), 329. 
 
 Etiwanda. — Eleven miles. Altitude, 1,143 feet. Population 
 (precinct), 231. 
 
 Rochester. — Fourteen miles. Altitude, 1,120 feet. 
 
 Nortli Cueainong'a. — Sixteen miles. Altitude, 1,115 feet. 
 Population (Cucamonga Precinct), 416. 
 
 The village of Cucamonga is two miles distant upon 
 the south. 
 
 North Ontario. — Twenty miles. Altitude, 1,212 feet. Popu- 
 lation (Ontario Precinct), 1,229. 
 
 The street-car line through Euclid Avenue, connect- 
 ing this station with the city of Ontario, seven miles dis- 
 tant, is a gravity line. The mules employed to haul the 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 205 
 
 cars up grade to the station coast back with the passen- 
 gers on a truck that trails behind. Euclid Avenue 
 extends for fifteen miles from Ontario toward Mount San 
 Antonio, to the foot of the range. San Antonio Canon, 
 in the foot-hills, is a much frequented spot for trout fisher- 
 men and for summer campers, who are attracted by the 
 wild beauty of the place, to which a lofty waterfall, a 
 sycamore-shaded stream, and an abundance of flowers 
 contribute. 
 
 Clareiiioiit. — Twenty-fotir miles. Altitude, 1,143 feet. 
 Seat of Pomona College. 
 
 North Pomona.— Twenty.five miles. Altitude, 1,074 feet. 
 Population (township), 5,010. 
 
 Connected with the city of Pomona by a steam motor 
 road and an electric railway. The different varieties of 
 berries here receive special attention and are exported in 
 large quantity. Pomona is also an active manufacturing 
 city. 
 
 liOrdsburg'. — Twenty-seven miles. Altitude, 1,041 feet. 
 A Dunkard (German Baptist) colony. 
 
 Sail Dinias. — Twenty-nine miles. Altitude, 941 feet. 
 Glendora. — Thirty-three miles. Altitude, 747 feet. 
 Azusa. — Thirty-six miles. Altitude, 616 feet. Population 
 (township), 1,851. 
 
 Diiarte. — Thirty-nine miles. Altitude, 497 feet. 
 
 San Gabriel Canon, three miles distant, is a favorite 
 mountain resort. 
 
 Monrovia. — Forty-one miles. Altitude, 434 feet. Population 
 (township), 2,557. 
 
 Arcadia. — Forty-three miles. Altitude, 492 feet. 
 
 Located on the Lucky Baldwin ranch. 
 
206 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Santa Anita. — Forty-five miles. Altitude, 604 feet. 
 
 Also on the Baldwin ranch, which, by reason of its 
 large orchards, vineyards, wineries, and race-horse stables, 
 is visited by many tourists. It is only five miles distant 
 from Pasadena, and is included among the features com- 
 
 SIERRA MADRE VILLA, SAN BERNARDINO VALLEY. 
 
 prised in the many pleasant carriage-drives from that 
 city. 
 
 Chapman. — Forty-six miles. 
 
 Lampntla Park. — Forty-seven miles. Altitude, 735 feet. 
 
 The location of wineries whose aggregate annual prod- 
 uct is nearly half a million gallons. Carriages from the 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 207 
 
 Sierra Madre Villa Hotel meet trains at this station. San 
 Gabriel Mission is three and a half miles away. 
 
 Fair Oaks.— Forty-eight miles. 
 
 Olivewood. — Forty-nine miles. 
 
 Pasadena. — Chicago, 2,255 miles; St. Louis, 2,115 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 10 miles. Altitude, 829 feet. Population, 4,882, township, 
 7 222. 
 
 Connected with Los Angeles by two steam railroads, 
 over which frequent trains are run through the day. 
 
 Pasadena is a city of residences, and the established 
 winter home of many eastern people of wealth and cult- 
 ure. It is one of the most attractive towns in California, 
 a perpetually blooming garden. 
 
 This is the point of departure for the most popular 
 mountain trip in the State. 
 
 Pasadena Mountain Railway. — More than five thou- 
 sand tourists are said to have visited the summits of the 
 Sierra Madre every year prior to the initiation of the 
 mountain railway, while still the ascent was wholly made 
 with burros. Mount Wilson, the site of the new Harvard 
 Observatory, and Mount Lowe, each more than 6,000 feet 
 above sea-level, lie just north of Pasadena. 
 
 The Pasadena Mountain Railway, part of which is 
 already completed and in operation, is projected to the 
 pinnacle of Mount Lowe. The first section of this railway, 
 from a connection with the Los Angeles Terminal Rail- 
 road at Mountain Junction to Rubio Canon, is operated 
 by electricity. At the foot of Echo Mountain, in Rubio 
 Canon, begins the second section, a stout cable road, 
 which climbs the steep incline to the Echo Mountain 
 House, rising 1,400 feet vertically in 3,000 feet of progress. 
 
 The Echo Mountain House is 3,500 feet above sea-level, 
 upon the crest of the semi-detached mountain from which 
 its name was derived. The slopes at the foot of this 
 
208 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 mountain, for hundreds of acres, are covered in season 
 with the flaming blossoms of the poppy — a mass of solid 
 color so vivid that it has for centuries served as a beacon 
 by day for mariners fifty miles out at sea. The point was 
 named Las Flores (The Flowers) by the sailors, and the 
 name has become permanent. Flowers, vines, ferns and 
 mosses, rugged rocks, innumerable woodland nooks, and 
 cascades diversify the mountain slopes and levels within a 
 few minutes' walk of the hotel, on every hand, and there 
 
 ALT ADEN A. 
 
 IS more than enough to reward a trip to the summit of 
 Echo Mountain, even if one should not care to make the 
 entire journey to the upper peaks of the Sierra Madre. 
 Beyond that point, numerous bridle paths diverge and 
 good trails lead to the summit. The enterprise includes 
 the erection and maintenance of another hotel on the 
 pinnacle of Mount Lowe. 
 
 In Rubio Canon is a pavilion, where vocal and instru- 
 mental concerts are given, and where moonlight parties 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 209 
 
 from Pasadena, Los Angeles, and other neighboring cities 
 and towns frequently resort. There is also a waterfall 
 and a fountain illuminated at night by electric lights. 
 
 Raymond. — Two miles west of Pasadena station. Altitude, 
 748 feet. 
 
 Named for the imposing Raymond Hotel, which stands 
 upon an eminence near at hand, commanding a full cir- 
 cular sweep of the valley. The hotel is visible from the 
 train upon the left. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : South Pasadena, Lincoln 
 Park, Garvanza, Highland Park, Morgan, Water Street, 
 Downey Avenue. 
 
 Los Ang'eles.— Chicago, 2,265 miles; St. Louis, 2,125 miles; San 
 Diego, 127 miles. Altitude, 270 feet. Population, 50,395. Junction 
 with Southern Pacific Railroad and Los Angeles Terminal Railway. 
 
 This is the principal city of Southern California its 
 assessed wealth being $46,000,000. It has 90 miles of 
 graded and graveled streets, 10 miles of paved streets, 80 
 miles of cement sidewalks, and 90 miles of street railroads. 
 The city is lighted entirely by electricity. The residences 
 are of the cottage style, and are commonly surrounded by 
 lawns and gardens, in which the orange, magnolia, date 
 palm, cypress, pepper, and eucalyptus contrast their dif- 
 ferent shades of green with the brilliant hues of ger- 
 aniums, roses, and innumerable other cultivated flowers 
 of choice variety. The hot-house blossoms of the East 
 here overrun hedges and porch trellises, side by side w^ith 
 the wisteria and scarlet passion-vine. These gardens 
 contain flowering plants of one or another kind through- 
 out the year, and outside the immediate business district 
 the streets are shaded wdth the slender, graceful eucalyp- 
 tus and the aesthetic drooping pepper tree. 
 
 Los Angeles was founded September 7, 1781, by Don 
 
 14 
 
210 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Felipe de Neve, a Spanish Governor of California. Its 
 name was originally Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles 
 (Town of the Queen of Angels), the present name afford- 
 ing another example in derivatives, the city of the Qneen 
 of Angels having become, by a simple contraction of the 
 name, the property of the angels themselves. In 1822 the 
 first Saxon was brought into the city, as prisoner of the 
 Mexicans. He married into a Spanish family, and his 
 example was frequently followed by American immigrants 
 
 RESIDENCE, LOS ANGELES. 
 
 in after years. Nine years later an overland outlet to the 
 East was established in the Santa Fe Trail, and a large 
 trade developed in consequence. In 1835 the city became 
 the capital of California, and eleven years thereafter, on 
 August 13, 1846, Commodore Stockton and Major Fre- 
 mont raised here the American flag. In 1847 Fremont 
 became Governor, and the house that served for his head- 
 quarters still stands at the corner of Aliso and Los 
 Angeles streets. Don Pio Pico, the Mexican Governor 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 211 
 
 succeeded by Fremont, is still alive at an advanced age, 
 and is a voting citizen of Los Angeles. 
 
 In the last decade the population has increased about 
 40,000. The area of the city proper is thirty-six square 
 miles, and there are numerous orchards and vineyards 
 within its limits. 
 
 Los Angeles is chiefly modern, for its growth is recent, 
 but there is much of Spanish atmosphere about it. In 
 the suburbs Mexicans are numerous, and there is a 
 Mexican quarter in the heart of the city, known as Sonora- 
 town. One or two passable Mexican restaurants can be 
 found, and those who have never ventured to taste " Cali- 
 fornia chicken tamales " in the East, or tasting have 
 repented, may find it worth while to patronize the street 
 venders here, for the native mixture of green corn, 
 chicken, olive, and chile, served hot in a corn-husk wrap- 
 per, is really a palatable morsel. 
 
 The population includes several thousand Chinese, 
 who maintain their separate quarter in all the malo- 
 dorous picturesqueness characteristic of American China- 
 towns. 
 
 For educational institutions Los Angeles has the 
 University of Southern California, with colleges of music, 
 letters, and medicine; St. Vincent's (Catholic) College 
 for boys; Los Angeles College for young women, and 
 the Branch State Normal School, besides many private 
 schools and the regular public city schools. There are 
 some sixty churches, five hospitals, two orphan asylums, 
 two theaters, eighteen banks, a Chamber of Commerce, 
 and half a dozen parks. 
 
 The Kite-shaped Track. — The main line of the 
 Southern California Railway (Santa Fe Route) between 
 Los Angeles and San Bernardino, that portion of the line 
 south from Los Angeles as far as Orange, and the short line 
 
212 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 between Orange and San Bernardino, form a rough ellipse 
 intersecting the principal settlements of the region. East- 
 ward from San Bernardino another belt has been con- 
 structed, and the two together form a cross-belt not unlike a 
 figure 8. Over this comprehensive circuit, known as 
 the Kite-shaped Track, regular daily trains are run from 
 
 A LOS ANGELES HOME. 
 
 Los Angeles in both directions, each train following the 
 outline of the figure and returning to Los Angeles without 
 duplicating any of the journey except for the loop-cross- 
 ing at San Bernardino. The Panorama Trains, as these are 
 called, thus make a run of i6o miles through the fairest 
 horticultural region of Southern California, for the accom- 
 modation of tourists. 
 
 The stations on the loop east of San Bernardino, a 
 
NKW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 213 
 
 circuit of twenty-five miles, are Victoria, Drew, Gla- 
 DYSTA, Redlands, Eastberne, Mentone, Aplin, East 
 Highlands, Base Line, Moling, Highland, Asylum, Del 
 Rosa, Arrowhead and Highland Junction. 
 
 Redlands. — San Bernardino, nine miles. Altitude, 1,349 feet. 
 Population, 1,904. 
 
 This is the largest of the towns named, and lies at the 
 end of the tipper Santa Ana Valley. Although only six 
 years old, its assessed valuation is $2,000,000. The locality 
 is particularly adapted to the culture of the orange and 
 the raisin grape. Besides fruit growing and packing, the 
 local industries include the manufacture of irrigating pipe, 
 lumber, sashes and doors, and feed. 
 
 Arrowhead.— San Bernardino, four miles. Altitude, 1,226 feet. 
 
 Famed for the numerous hot mineral springs, already 
 mentioned, which issue from the mountain side, at an 
 elevation of 2,000 feet. 
 
 Carriages from Arrowhead Springs regularly meet 
 trains at this station. 
 
 Asylum. — San Bernardino, seven miles. Altitude, 1,285 feet. 
 
 Named for the State Insane Asylum, which at this 
 point overlooks the Santa Ana Valley from a mesa eleva- 
 tion. 
 
 Hig-liland.— San Bernardino, eight miles. Altitude, 1,315 feet. 
 
 A young town whose natural advantages are similar to 
 those of Redlands. 
 
 LOS ANGELES TO SANTA MONICA, REDONDO, AND SANTA 
 
 CATALINA. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Ballona Junction, Nadeau 
 Park, Central Avenue, Slauson, Wildesin, Hyde Park, 
 Centinela, Inglewood, Mesmer, Machado, South Santa 
 Monica. 
 
214 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Santa Monica. — Los Angeles, 21 miles. Population, 1,580; 
 township, 2,327. 
 
 An attractive beach resort. Frequent trains are run 
 from Los Angeles daily, passing through a country scat- 
 teringly settled but nearly all under cultivation. The 
 Southern California Railway branch to Santa Monica and 
 Redondo diverges from the main line just outside of Los 
 Angeles, on the south, at Ballona Junction. 
 
 Redondo Beach. — Los Angeles, 22 miles. Population, 603. 
 
 Another much frequented seaside resort ten miles 
 beyond Inglewood, at which point the lines to Santa 
 Monica and Redondo diverge, the latter through Wiseburn 
 and Arena. 
 
 Santa Catalina Island. — This island, one of the 
 Channel group, lies about twenty miles off the coast, 
 south of Redondo, between which point and Santa Cata- 
 lina steamers ply three times a week, in summer, in connec- 
 tion with trains to and from Los Angeles. There is usually 
 no regular steamer service in winter, but special trips are 
 made for parties who desire the accommodation. Like 
 the other channel islands, this is the portion of a mount- 
 ain cap unsubmerged by the sea, above whose level 
 its highest peaks rise more than 3,000 feet. Its shores 
 are for the most part precipitous cliffs, which here and 
 there give place to semicircular beaches. One of 
 these, on the inner rim of a beautiful little crescent 
 harbor, is called Avalon. This is the most populous of the 
 summer pleasure resorts in Southern California, and 
 although the throng of campers is not present in winter, 
 it is only because that is not the period of vacation from 
 shop and ofhce. 
 
 It is an idyllic spot, more equable than any portion of 
 the mainland, in consequence of the environment of the 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 215 
 
 sea. The air is gentle by day and night throughout the 
 year. It is a perfect spot for bathing, the shore of sand 
 and pebble shelving gradually off into water so pellucid 
 that through an incredible depth every weed and shell is 
 clearly distinguishable upon the bottom, and brown and 
 blood-red fishes may be seen swimming seventy-five feet 
 below. In the summer season it is a famous fishery. 
 Jewfish weighing 300 and 400 pounds are frequently taken 
 with a hand-line, and are abundant. The capture of the 
 
 REDONDO BEACH. 
 
 jewfish is more exciting sport than tarpon fishing, if any 
 can be, because of the prodigious weight and strength of 
 the former. Boats are sometimes dragged for a long dis- 
 tance before the jewfish will surrender. The yellowtail 
 ranks next as a game fish, and is highly valued for the 
 table. It reaches a weight of fifty potmds, and the waters 
 are at times churned into acres of foam by schools of yel- 
 lowtail. Barracuda, which are a sort of cousin to the 
 bluefish of the Atlantic, are also plentiful, besides Span- 
 ish mackerel and the usual smaller fry of ocean, some 
 
216 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 of which are peculiar to the Pacific. Flying fish are so 
 common as to attract little notice after the novelty of 
 first acquaintance. In crossing from Redondo to Avalon 
 they shoot from under the bows of the steamer like 
 startled birds from covert, and skim the surface of the 
 water like swallows for a long distance. The flying fish 
 does not ordinarily rise far above the water unless attracted 
 by a light at night, when it can clear the hull of a small 
 vessel, although it often falls on board. But it easily 
 covers a horizontal distance of at least 500 yards at 
 pleasure. Sharks and whales are also occasionally sighted 
 between the island and the mainland. 
 
 In the interior of Santa Catalina, which is about thirty 
 miles long and from a half-mile to nine miles broad, wild 
 goats are numerous. 
 
 The island has few permanent residents, although as 
 many as 3,000 visitors are congregated in summer. Its 
 area is chiefly devoted to sheep grazing, the water supply 
 being too small to encourage agriculture, even if its posi- 
 tion at a distance from markets did not operate to disad- 
 vantage in that particular. 
 
 A point a dozen miles north of Avalon has been chosen 
 by the proprietors for the site of a new watering place, 
 whose development in the near future will shorten the 
 journey from the mainland by just that distance. 
 
 Carrier-pigeon service between Avalon and the main- 
 land has recently been instituted, for the convenience of 
 men who desire to retain prompt business communication 
 with the outside world while stopping on the island. 
 
 Los Angeles to San Diego. 
 
 Ballona Junction. — Two miles. 
 
 Point of divergence of trains from Los Angeles to Port 
 Ballona, Redondo, and Santa Monica beaches. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 217 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Bandini, Rivera, Los Nietos. 
 Santa Fe Springs. — Thirteen miles. Altitude, 159 feet. 
 
 A health resort. Whittier, the seat of a State Reform 
 School, joins this town upon the east. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Northam, Fullerton. 
 
 Anaheim. — Twenty-seven miles. Altitude, 164 feet. Popula- 
 tion, 1,273; township, 2,917. 
 
 A prosperous German colony. 
 
 Orange. — Los Angeles, 31 miles; San Diego, 96 miles. Alti- 
 tude, 178 feet. Population, 866; township. 2,721. 
 
 Junction with line from San Bernardino direct. A cen- 
 ter of orange and grape culture. 
 
 Santa Ana. — Thirty-four miles. Altitude, 135 feet. Popula- 
 tion, 3,628; township, 4,220. 
 
 Junction with the Santa Ana Railroad to Newport, on 
 the coast. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Irvine, Modjeska. 
 
 Modjeska was named for Madame Helen Modjeska, the 
 actress, whose ranch is at the head of Santiago Canon, 
 some miles east of the station. In the vicinity of that 
 canon silver mines are operated. 
 
 El Toro.— Forty-seven miles. Altitude, 428 feet. 
 
 Point of departure by stage for Laguna and Arch 
 Beach, seven miles. At Arch Beach the sandstone cliffs 
 have been carved by the tide into arches and caverns, and 
 large shells are abundant. 
 
 Capi.strano.— Los Angeles, 56 miles; Chicago ( short line), 
 2,277 miles; St. Louis, 2,137 miles; San Diego, 71 miles. Altitude, 
 138 feet. Poptdation (San Juan Township), 801. 
 
 The gaunt ruins upon the left are those of the mission 
 San Juan Capistrano, founded in 1776. In its original 
 
218 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 completeness it boasted a tower 120 feet high, which an 
 earthquake toppled over in 181 2, killing some thirty of 
 the congregation which was assembled at the time. In 
 1818 a pirate named Bouchard landed on the coast three 
 miles away and with his band terrorized the entire com- 
 munity for several days. While the inhabitants hid them- 
 selves in the coverts of the Rio Trabuco, Bouchard and 
 his men caroused in the mission and despoiled it of most 
 of its portable treasures, in which these establishments 
 were, in their prime, very rich. A portion of the struct- 
 ure is still used by the resident Mexicans for a chapel. 
 
 Before the era of railroads, even after the decadence 
 of the mission, San Juan Capistrano was a much more 
 active town than it is now. A larger population was 
 gathered here around the nucleus, and it was a halting 
 place for the stages and all the vehicles of trade between 
 Los Angeles and San Diego. But despite its forsaken 
 air — perhaps the more because of it — it is an extremely 
 interesting spot, and tourists not infrequently spend days 
 and even weeks here pleasurably. There is a comfortable 
 hotel, the Mendelson House, and apart from the powerful 
 poetic charm of the ruins, reminiscent of a time when 
 monks, soldiers, and Indians were the only inhabitants, 
 and apart from incidental glimpses of the life of the 
 Mexicans, who are descended from soldier and Indian, 
 the little valley is full of natural beauties, and its fascina- 
 tion increases with familiarity. A few miles farther iip 
 the valley are still older ruins of the rudiments of the 
 mission first designed for San Juan Capistrano, begun 
 before the present site was determined upon. 
 
 A quarter-century back there were visible at Capistrano 
 extensive ruins of covered masonry aqueducts, for the 
 conveyance of water to be used for irrigation. The village 
 is said to be honey-combed with them, although they are 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 219 
 
 not now easily discoverable. The fact is mentioned as 
 showing the greater comparative industrial activity of the 
 town in a former time. Even so late as twenty-five years 
 ago the population was probably four or five times 
 greater. After the departure of the mission fathers the 
 greater part of the appurtenant lands appear to have been 
 acquired by an Englishman, Mr. John Forster, some 
 of whose descendants still live here. For twenty miles 
 beyond, on both sides of the railroad, his enormous ranch 
 
 SAN LUIS KEY MISSION. 
 
 extended, 
 divided. 
 
 It has, in recent years, been more or less sub- 
 
 San Juan. — Fifty-nine miles. 
 
 A favorite camping spot by the sea. One of the 
 salients of the promontory upon the right is Dana's Point, 
 referred to in the following extract from Richard Henry 
 Dana's " Two Years Before the Mast "; 
 
220 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Coasting along on the quiet shore of the Pacific, we came to 
 anchor* in twenty fathoms water, almost out at sea, as it were, and 
 directly abreast of a steep hill which overhung the water, and 
 was twice as high as our royalmast-head. We had heard much of 
 this place from the Lagoda's crew, who said it was the worst place 
 in California. The shore is rocky, and directly exposed to the south- 
 east, so that vessels are obliged to slip and run for their lives on the 
 first sign of a gale; and, late as it was in the season, we got up our 
 slip-rope and gear, though we meant to stay only twenty-four hours. 
 We pulled the agent ashore and were ordered to wait for him while 
 he took a circuitous way round the hill to the Mission, which was hid- 
 den behind it. We were glad of the opportunity to examine this 
 singular place, and hauling the boat up, and making her well fast, 
 took different directions up and down the beach, to explore it. 
 
 San Juan is the only romantic spot on the coast. The country 
 here for several miles is high table-land, running boldly to the shore 
 and breaking off in a steep cliff, at the foot of which the waters of 
 the Pacific are constantly dashing. For several miles the water 
 w^ashes the very base of the hill, or breaks upon ledges and frag- 
 ments of rocks which run out into the sea. Just where we landed 
 was a small cove, or bight, which gave us, at high tide, a few square 
 feet of sand-beach between the sea and bottom of the hill. This 
 was the only landing-place. Directly before us rose the perpendicu- 
 lar height of four or five hundred feet. How we were to get hides 
 down, or goods up, upon the table-land on which the Mission was 
 situated, was more than we could tell. The agent had taken a long 
 circuit, and yet had frequently to jump over breaks and climb steep 
 places, in the ascent. No animal but a man or monkey could get up 
 it. However, that was not our lookout; and, knowing that the agent 
 would be gone an hour or more, we strolled about, picking up shells, 
 and following the sea where it tumbled in, roaring and spouting, 
 among the crevices of the great rocks. What a sight, thought I, 
 must this be in a southeaster! The rocks were as large as 
 those of Nahant or Newport, but, to my eye, more grand and broken. 
 Besides, there was a grandeur in everything around which gave a 
 solemnity to the scene, a silence and solitariness which affected every 
 part! Not a human being but ourselves for miles, and no sound 
 heard but the pulsations of the great Pacific! and the great steep hill 
 rising like a wall and cutting us off from all the world but the 
 
 ♦May, 1835. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 221 
 
 " world of waters "! I separated myself from the rest, and sat down 
 on a rock, just where the sea ran in and formed a fine spouting horn. 
 Compared with the plain, dull sand-beach of the rest of the coast, 
 this grandeur was as refreshing as a great rock in a weary land. It 
 was almost the first time that I had been positively alone — free from 
 the sense that human beings were at my elbow, if not talking with 
 me — since I had left home. My better nature returned strong 
 upon me. Everything was in accordance with my state of feeling, 
 and I experienced a glow of pleasure at finding that what of poetry 
 and romance I ever had in me had not been entirely deadened by the 
 laborious life, with its paltry, vulgar associations, which I had been 
 leading. Nearly an hour did I sit, almost lost in the luxury of this 
 entire new scene of the play in which I had been so long acting, 
 when I was aroused by the distant shouts of my companions, and 
 saw that they were collecting together, as the agent had made his 
 appearance, on his way back to our boat. 
 
 We pulled aboard, and found the long-boat hoisted out, and 
 nearly laden with goods; and, after dinner, we all went on shore in 
 the quarter-boat, with the long-boat in tow. As we drew in, we 
 descried an ox-cart and a couple of men standing directly on the 
 brow of the hill, and having landed, the captain took his way round 
 the hill, ordering me and one other to follow him. We followed, 
 picking our way out, and jumping and scrambling up, walking over 
 briers and prickly pears, until we came to the top. Here the country 
 stretched out for miles, as far as the eye could reach, on a level, table 
 surface, and the only habitation in sight w^as the small white Mission 
 of San Juan Capistrano, with a few Indian huts about it, standing in 
 a small hollow, about a mile from w^here we were. Reaching the 
 brow of the hill, w^here the cart stood, we found several piles of hides, 
 and Indians sitting around them. One or two other carts were 
 coming slowly on from the Mission, and the captain told us to begin 
 and throw the hides down. This, then, was the way they were to be 
 got down, thrown down, one at a time, a distance of 400 feet! This 
 was doing the business on a great scale. Standing on the edge of 
 the hill, and looking down the perpendicular height, the sailors — 
 
 " That walked upon the beach 
 Appeared like mice; and our tall anchoring bark 
 Diminished to her cock; her cock a buoy 
 Almost too small for sight." 
 
 Down this height we pitched the hides, throwing them as far out 
 
222 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 into the air as we could; and as they were all large, stiff, and doubled, 
 like the cover of a book, the wind took them, and they swayed out 
 and eddied about, plunging and rising in the air, like a kite when it 
 has broken its string. As it was now low tide there was no danger 
 of their falling into the water; and, as fast as they came to ground, 
 the men below picked them up, and taking them on their heads, 
 walked off with them to the boat. It was really a picturesque sight; 
 the great height, the scaling of the hides, and the continual walking 
 to and fro of the men, who looked like mites on the beach. This was 
 the romance of hide droghing! 
 
 Some of the hides lodged in cavities under the bank and out of 
 our sight, being directly under us; but by pitching other hides in the 
 same direction we succeeded in dislodging them. Had they remained 
 there, the captain said he should have sent on board for a couple of 
 pairs of long halyards, and got some one to go down for them. It 
 was said that one of the crew of an English brig went down in the 
 same way a few years before. We looked over and thought it would 
 not be a welcome task, especially for a few paltry hides; but no one 
 knows what he will do until he is called upon ; for six months after- 
 ward I descended the same place by a pair of topgallant studding- 
 sail halyards to save half a dozen hides which had lodged there. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: San Onofre, Las Flores, Los 
 Angeles Junction. 
 
 Oceansicle. — Los Angeles, 85 miles; Chicago (short line), 2,306 
 miles; St. Louis, 2,166 miles; San Diego, 42 miles. Altitude, 44 feet. 
 Population, 427. 
 
 Situated upon a bluff by the seaside. Connection with 
 branch lines to Escondido and De Luz. 
 
 OcEANSiDE TO EscoNDiDO. — This branch runs to the southeast, 
 through the valleys of San Marcos and Escondido, old Mexican 
 grants. 
 
 Escondido. — Twenty-two miles from Oceanside, 640 feet above 
 sea-level. The township possesses a population of 1,200. 
 
 Raisins are the chief product of the valley. One of the colleges 
 of the University of Southern California is located here. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Escondido Junction, Loma Alta, Vista, 
 Buena, San Marcos. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 223 
 
 OcEANSiDE TO De Luz. — A portioii of the original Temecula 
 Canon line from Oceanside to San Bernardino. 
 
 Intermediate Stations : Los Angeles Junction, Ysidora. 
 
 An example of the old-time Mexican life is offered the tourist in 
 the great ranch-houses of the Santa Margarita Ranch, 230,000 acres 
 in extent, near De Luz, which is thirteen miles distant from Ocean- 
 side, 147 feet above the sea. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Escondido Junction, Carls- 
 bad, La Costa, Leucadia, Encinitas, Del Mar, Sorrento, 
 Linda Vista, Selwyn, Ladrillo, Morena. 
 
 There are noted mineral waters at Carlsbad. From 
 Morena the bay of San Diego, the peninsula of Coronado 
 and Point Loma may be seen. 
 
 Oldtowii. — Three and one-half miles north of San Diego 
 proper. 
 
 The first Spanish settlement in California was made 
 here, this being the original site of San Diego, founded in 
 1769. It is located at the mouth of the San Diego River. 
 Here are the foundations of the first mission church and 
 the presidio, begun in the same year. The mission was 
 in 1774 removed six miles up the valley of the San Diego 
 River, known as Mission Valley, where its ruins still 
 stand, near old olive trees and huge palms that were 
 planted by the mission fathers. The old mission bells are 
 lashed to a cross-bar behind the Catholic chapel, at Old- 
 town, where there is also an ancient burying-ground and 
 many an adobe ruin of former dwellings. Here, also, 
 stands the house which figures as the marriage-place of 
 Ramona in Helen Hunt Jackson's well-known novel. 
 
 San Dieg'O. — Los Angeles, 127 miles; Chicago (short line), 
 2,348 miles; St. Louis, 2,208 miles. Population, 16,159. 
 
 National City. — Five and one-half miles beyond San Diego. 
 Population, 1,353. End of the Santa Fe Route on the south. 
 
224 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 SAN BERNARDINO TO SAN DIEGO, VIA SHORT LINE 
 
 Coltoii. — San Bernardino, three miles. Altitude, 977 feet. 
 Population, 1,315. Junction with Southern Pacific Railroad between 
 Yuma and Los Angeles. 
 
 The location of one of the largest fruit-packing estab- 
 lishments in Southern California. Its other industries 
 include the quarrying of marble and building-stone, lime- 
 burning, and flour-milling. 
 
 East Riverside. — San Bernardino, six miles; Riverside, three 
 miles. Altitude, 943 feet. Population, 330. 
 
 Junction with branch lines to San Jacinto and Temecula 
 on the south. 
 
 East Riverside to Temecula. — The line to Temecula extended 
 through the remarkable canon of that name to Oceanside until, in 
 1S90, immense wash-outs carried away many miles of the road in 
 and near the canon, which portion has never been rebuilt. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Box Springs, Alessandro, Perris, Elsi- 
 nore, Wildomar, Murrieta, and Linda Rosa. 
 
 Elsinore. — Altitude 1,281 feet. 
 
 Contains a lake that covers a dozen square miles, hot mineral 
 springs, much resorted to by rheumatic invalids, and deposits of gold, 
 silver, asbestos, tin, iron, coal, and fire-clay. 
 
 Temecula. — Altitude, 1,001 feet. Forty-five miles from East 
 Riverside. 
 
 Is the site of an ancient Indian village at the mouth of the canon. 
 
 East Riverside to San Jacinto. The Temecula road is followed 
 as far as Perris, eighteen miles, at which point a branch diverges to 
 San Jacinto, thirty-eight miles from East Riverside. This is a trad- 
 ing and shipping point of considerable importance, with lumber 
 manufactories and lime quarries. The Lake Hemet dam, under con- 
 struction, is intended to supply water enough to irrigate 80,000 acres 
 of land. Here also are hot springs. Mount San Jacinto, 10,894 f^et 
 high, is a magnificent mountain, and possesses a quasi -romantic 
 interest for the numerous admirers of Alessandro and Ramona. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 225 
 
 Strawberry Valley is a favorite summer resort, at an elevation of 
 6,000 feet. The altitude of San Jacinto is 1,535 feet. The population 
 of the town is 661, and of the township 1,192. 
 
 Riverside.— Chicago, 2,214 miles; St. Louis, 2,074 miles; San 
 Diego, 134 miles. Altitude, 875 feet. Population, 4,683. 
 
 In 1872 the site of this city was a sheep ranch. In 
 1892 its assessed valuation was more than $4,000,000. It 
 lies within a small half-circle of foot-hills, in plain view of 
 the San Bernardino Range, whose snow-draped summits 
 
 MAGNOLIA AVENUE, RIVERSIDE. 
 
 present in winter a remarkable contrast with the almost 
 tropical splendor of its vegetation and fruitage. Its 
 Magnolia Avenue is world-renowned — a magnificent 
 double driveway beginning a short distance otitside the 
 business center and extending for seven miles in a 
 straight line between rows of eucalyptus, pepper, and 
 occasionally magnolia and palm trees. From this avenue 
 private drives lead to adjacent mansion homes, in the 
 
 15 
 
236 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 midst of a wealth of golden fruit and ornamental shrub- 
 bery. There is not an idle acre of land. Orange groves 
 or orchards of almond, peach, pear, apricot, fig, and wal- 
 nut are everywhere to be seen. It has highly perfected 
 systems of irrigation, comprising 200 miles of ditches and 
 pipe-lines, with more in process of construction. 
 
 Riverside is the largest orange-shipping point in Cali- 
 fornia, producing more than half a million boxes of 
 oranges annually. In raisin-making it is second only to 
 Fresno, and in addition raises large quantities of deciduous 
 fruits and general farm products. Many establishments 
 are required for handling its enormous product, packing 
 oranges, curing lemons, and canning deciduous fruits, 
 keeping in cold storage. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Pachappa, Casa Blanca, 
 Arlington, Alvord. 
 
 South Riverside.— Fifteen miles southwest of Riverside. 
 Altitude, 603 feet. Population (precinct), 556. 
 
 The Circle Colony. Besides fruit raising, its industries 
 include the manufacture of sewer-pipe, terra cotta, brick, 
 and fertilizers; and porphyry and gypsum are quarried. 
 The Temescal tin mines are situated seven miles east of 
 South Riverside. 
 
 The road crosses the San Jacinto stream near South 
 Riverside, and follows the course of the Santa Ana from 
 Yorba to Olive. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Rincon, Gypsum, Yorba, 
 Olive. 
 
 Orange.— Chicago, 2,252 miles; St. Louis, 2,112 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 31 miles; San Diego, 96 miles. Junction with main line 
 between Los Angeles and San Diego. 
 
 For remainder of the journey to San Diego see page 217. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 227 
 
 San Diego. — The bay of San Diego is twelve miles 
 long, divided from the ocean by the low, slender, north- 
 ward-extending peninsula of Coronado, and the bold 
 headland of Point Loma, which overlaps it on the north, 
 the narrow entrance to the bay lying between these two. 
 It is as placid as a mill-pond, and as beautiful as an inlet 
 of the Mediterranean. The city lies upon its eastern 
 shore, covering the narrow level of its rim and climbing 
 the slopes of a mesa that here forms a wall between the 
 sea and the valley of the San Diego River. It will begin 
 to be a great and wealthy city when the problem of exten- 
 sive irrigation of the immediately surrounding country 
 has been solved and the enormous areas of the county 
 have been fairly directed toward general productiveness. 
 The development of the resources of the soil is recognized 
 as the essential preliminary to urban prosperity, and every 
 succeeding year marks new development in agriculture 
 and fruit raising upon the rich lands that form the sur- 
 roundings of the city. In the meantime its chief interest 
 to the tourist lies in its superb climate, its manifold and 
 diverse beauties and attractions, and the examples of idyllic 
 and prosperous rural life which its environs afford. Cali- 
 fornia can boast no more magnificent or more profitable 
 orchards and vineyards, in proportion to their size, than are 
 found in its contiguous valleys, although their number is 
 as yet too small for the maintenance of a great commercial 
 center. 
 
 It is perfectly adapted for a sojourn. A good deal of 
 business must necessarily be transacted in a city of 16,000 
 permanent inhabitants, but this fact will not obtrusively 
 impress itself upon the casual visitor. It is quiet, restful, 
 dreamy, picturable in a figure half-dozing amid the 
 fragrant odor of flowers upon the shore of its blessed 
 bay. 
 
■228 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Aside from the mere seduction of out-of-door wander- 
 ing in such an idyllic spot, there are many special sights 
 to be seen on the shore, in the valleys, and among the 
 
 UNITED STATES AND MEXICO BOUNDARY-LINE MONUMENT, NEAR SAN DIEGO. 
 
 hills. A drive to Oldtown and thence up the Mission 
 Valley, returning over the mesa, will embrace the remains 
 of the ancient regime. At Oldtown are the ruins of 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 229 
 
 the first of the missions, founded July i6, 1769, with due 
 ceremonial, and of the old presidio, or garrison, where a 
 military force of seventy soldiers, with small arms and a 
 few cannon, were quartered for the protection of the 
 pueblo against Indian uprisings. One such uprising took 
 place a few weeks after the beginning of work upon the 
 mission, a boy being killed and a few men wounded on 
 the side of the Spaniards, who, to the credit of their 
 good judgment, and doubtless to their humanity, did not 
 attempt to punish the Indians severely, but sought to 
 subdue them without recourse to arms. For a full half- 
 century after the settlement of San Diego nearly the 
 entire population, except for those directly engaged in 
 missionary labors, lived either within the presidio or close 
 at hand. In 1800 its population numbered 167 soldiers 
 and their families, and in 1821 there were only five houses 
 in old San Diego. In 1837 the presidio was abandoned by 
 the military. The chief business of the locality was the 
 exportation of hides, and this was at one time the center 
 of this traffic for the entire California coast. 
 
 Old paintings and statuary and the old mission bells 
 are to be seen at the Catholic chapel, and at the foot of 
 Presidio Hill stand two lofty and venerable palm trees, 
 fenced about for their preservation, which are a legacy of 
 the old era. In 1774 the mission was removed to a point 
 six miles up the valley, where some seventy Indian 
 rancherias were collected, the spot being known to them 
 as Nipiguay. Three months after, these Indians, 1,000 
 strong, attacked and burned the mission, several of the 
 Spaniards being killed and many seriously wounded 
 in the battle. After two years the undaunted fathers 
 began a new mission on the same site, which was com- 
 pleted in 1784. After its final abandonment in conse- 
 quence of the act of secularization, the edifice rapidly 
 
230 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 fell into decay, and to-day only tottering fragments 
 remain of a once imposing structure, by the side of which 
 an Indian school has been erected. The orchard of olive 
 trees, with a few intermingled palms and pomegranates, 
 in the alluvial valley in front of the eminence on which 
 the mission stood, has outlived the edifice itself. It is still 
 in bearing, and is the stock from which a vast number of 
 olive trees in California have been propagated. At the 
 time the missions were broken up, this one of San Diego 
 possessed some 28,000 cattle, horses, and sheep, and raised 
 large quantities of w^ieat and barley, in addition to fruits 
 and other farm crops. In 1846 a United States military 
 post was established at this port, and the troops were 
 quartered in the deserted mission for ten years. 
 
 Coronado is reached by ferry, and the beach lies at the 
 end of a short ride by steam motor across the widest part 
 of the peninsula. It is also connected with the mainland 
 by railroad. Coronado Beach is a dozen miles in length, 
 a wide, sweeping shore of white sand looking off to the 
 horizon of the Pacific, which is unbroken save by the 
 distant peaks of the Coronado Islands. In the space of 
 half a dozen years what was originally a sterile waste, 
 tangled with chaparral, has become one of the greatest of 
 American seaside resorts. Numerous handsome resi- 
 dences have been built, grounds have been improved, 
 thousands of tropical trees have been planted, avenues 
 have been constructed and lined with palms and hedges 
 of cypress and marguerites, parks and gardens have been 
 created, and the peninsula has become a town by itself, 
 populous and beautiful. The center of attraction is of 
 course the Hotel del Coronado. There are actually in the 
 world but few hostelries worthy of any comparison with it 
 in point of magnificence, beauty, and attractiveness. It 
 is built around an immense court, which is a tropical gar- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 231 
 
 den of rare shrubs and flowers, upon which the inner 
 rooms of the hotel open by way of a broad encircling 
 balcony. Toward the sea the g-alleries of each story are 
 encased in glass, and are used as sunning-places by 
 invalids and others who do not enjoy the ocean breeze. 
 The entire structure, including the court, covers four and 
 one-half acres, and accommodates 750 guests. The main 
 dining-room has a floor area of 10,000 square feet, unsup- 
 ported by a single pillar, and the ball-room a floor area of 
 11,000 feet. It is furnished throughout with the utmost 
 magnificence. The Hotel del Coronado stands upon the 
 edge of the beach, almost within reach of the waves, and 
 commands charming views of ocean, bay, and coast, and 
 mountain ranges across the Mexican border. 
 
 There is little difference here between summer and 
 winter. The average number of rainy days in the year 
 is thirty-four, and in the equable temperature much of 
 the flora of both temperate and tropic zones is continually 
 in bloom. There is a large conservatory where, under 
 glass, the most delicate of rare tropical plants are reared in 
 great profusion; a bath-house containing swimming tanks 
 of warm salt water for those who do not care to indulge 
 in surf bathing; a museum, an ostrich farm, a labyrinth, 
 a race-track, and many other special devices for diversi- 
 fication of the pleasure of guests, and all the incidental 
 attractions in and near San Diego are conveniently 
 accessible. 
 
 Ocean Beach and Pacific Beach lie on the north, a short 
 distance outside of San Diego, and Point Loma and its 
 light-house are worth a visit, which may be made by car- 
 riage around the bay. La Jolla Park is a uniquely beauti- 
 ful bit of coast thirteen miles from San Diego, reached by 
 a pleasant carriage drive or by way of the San Diego & 
 Pacific Beach Motor Railroad, and a short stage ride beyond. 
 
232 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Here the soft sandstone walls of a long bluff have been 
 water-worn into numerous connecting caverns, which may- 
 be entered dry-shod only at very low tide. The erosion 
 of the waves has wrought rock forms of striking appear- 
 ance, and has sculptured the remaining faces of the cliff 
 walls with delicately beautiful designs. Mosses, sea-anem- 
 ones, crabs, and abalones are very plentiful. The water 
 is exceedingly transparent, and the brilliant flashing of 
 
 LA JOLLA CAVES, NEAR SAN DIEGO. 
 
 golden fish that swim in schools near the shore adds to the 
 novelty of the spot. 
 
 El Cajon Valley lies fifteen miles northeast from San 
 Diego, and is reached over the San Diego, Cuymaca & 
 Eastern Railway. It is one of the largest and richest val- 
 leys in the immediate vicinity of San Diego. The upper 
 San Diego River flows through it, and the town of Lake- 
 side stands near the river and by the side of a beautiful 
 sheet of water known as Linda Lake. Allison, Cowles, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 233 
 
 Riverview, and Foster's are other stations in this valley. 
 One hundred and forty-five car-loads of raisins were 
 shipped from El Cajon Valley in 1891, and besides the 
 vineyards of raisin and table g-rapes, thousands of acres 
 are covered with fruit trees. This has also been for many 
 years a large wheat-producing region. The waters of the 
 San Diego Flume Company pass through it. 
 
 National City is conveniently reached by railroad, or 
 by a drive of four miles. Here are large olive orchards 
 and manufactories of olive-oil. In the highly cultivated 
 Paradise Valley, at National City, are many groves of 
 orange and lemon, the quality of whose fruit is unsur- 
 passed. 
 
 From San Diego the National City & Otay Railway 
 extends through National City, Chula Vista, and Otay 
 City to within a few hundred yards of the little Mexican 
 village of Tia Juana, which lies just across the border, 
 beyond the stream of the same name. A trip to Tia 
 Juana is one of the popular excursions of tourists while in 
 San Diego. The railroad ride is an enjoyable one of 
 fifteen miles, after which comes a short walk or coach- 
 ride, the latter being hardly worth the trouble of entering 
 the vehicle, from the railway terminus to the village. 
 Once arrived there is little to be seen besides a shop filled 
 with Mexican curios and a few swart soldiers lounging 
 about a custom house. It is better to take a few hours 
 more time for the excursion and drive from Tia Juana to 
 the seashore at Point of Rocks, where some really good 
 scenery lies. The Boundary Monument also may be vis- 
 ited by a three-mile drive from Tia Juana. The return 
 trip on the National City & Otay Railway includes a side- 
 ride to Sweetwater Dam, which lies east of San Diego in a 
 beautiful valley among the mesa lands. This is a reservoir 
 covering 700 acres on the Sweetwater River, and contains 
 six thousand million gallons of water. 
 
234 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 The trip to Tia Juana and the Sweetwater Dam by rail- 
 road consumes the greater part of a day. 
 
 Los Angeles to Santa Barbara. — Santa Barbara is 
 reached over the Southern Pacific Railroad from Los 
 Angeles, its main line being followed as far as Saugus, 
 thirty-two miles, altitude 1,159 feet, at which point a 
 branch line to the great seaside resort strikes off west- 
 ward. South of Saugus there is little of interest by the 
 way, except the long tunnel (altitude, 1,401 feet) just 
 below Newhall (altitude, 1,265 feet). But the branch line 
 speedily enters the fertile and most attractive valley of 
 the Santa Clara River. This valley, named for its river, 
 must not be confounded with the Santa Clara Valley 
 which is most commonly spoken of in connection with 
 California. The latter lies only a few miles southeast of 
 San Francisco, the city of San Jose in its midst. The one 
 now under consideration lies along the way for half the 
 distance from Saugus to Santa Barbara, and is about forty 
 miles long. Camulos, forty-seven miles from Los 
 Angeles, is the first point of interest. Camulos Ranch, at 
 this point, has become quasi-historic as the original home 
 of Ramona. Orchards of orange and olive surround the 
 buildings and screen them with foliage. 
 
 Santa Paula. — Sixty-six miles from Los Angeles. Population, 
 1,047. 
 
 Rich in most of the characteristic Southern California 
 fruits. 
 
 Saticoy. — Seventy-three miles. Population, 218. 
 Ventura. — Eighty-three miles. Population, 2,820. 
 
 Ventura is a contraction of San Buenaventura, the 
 name of the old mission town, whose church is still in a 
 fair state of preservation. This is an oil-center, besides 
 exporting very large quantities of grain, lima beans, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 235 
 
 potatoes, flour, wool, butter, hides, asphaltum, etc. It is 
 a seaport. 
 
 Fifteen miles north of Ventura lies the village of 
 Nordhoff, population, 244, in the Ojai Valley, which was 
 made famous by the writings of Charles Nordhoff. The 
 Nordhoff Hotel stages meet trains at Ventura. This 
 beautiful valley is snugly nestled among the mountains, 
 and is much in favor with tourists as a sojourning place, 
 because of its fruitfulness, its diverse scenery, the Matilija 
 vSprings, and the gentle climate. 
 
 From Ventura the road closely follows the shore-line, 
 on the edge of a narrow terrace between mountain and 
 sea. 
 
 Carpinteria. — One hundred miles. 
 
 Montecito. — One hundred and seven miles, 
 
 Santa Barbara. — One hundred and ten miles. Population, 
 
 5.864. 
 
 Facing southward toward the sea, the city rises to the 
 foot of the Santa Inez Mountains, which form a protecting 
 back-wall from three to five thousand feet high, whose 
 nearest pass on the west is the picturesque chasm of the 
 Gaviota thirty-six miles distant. Facing thus, and 
 sheltered thus, Santa Barbara knows but a slight change 
 of temperature, the mean monthly figures for a period of 
 thirteen years ranging between 55° and 71°, and the tem- 
 perature of its sea-water varying only half a dozen degrees 
 in the twelve months. 
 
 It is equally a resort of the invalid and the pleasure- 
 seeker. Surf-bathing in California is not much practiced 
 in winter, although the temperature of the sea is then 
 much higher than at some of the Atlantic watering- 
 places in summer, but at Santa Barbara there is hardly a 
 day in the year when some enthusiast may not be seen 
 taking a dip in the surf. The beach is smooth and firm, 
 
236 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 and is bordered by a boulevard, both much frequented by 
 carriages and equestrians. There are also bold cliff 
 points, like Sentinel Rock, overlooking the beach and the 
 brine, where idlers love to lounge and fishermen angle for 
 surf-fish. There are innumerable attractive drives, and 
 saddle-horses are much in request. A lofty mesa, covered 
 with live oaks, overlooks the town, and the side streets 
 and avenues are densely shaded with ornamental trees. 
 Cottages are buried in foliage and covered with clamber- 
 ing vines in bloom. In the profusion of blossoms the rose 
 is conspicuous, one private garden alone containing more 
 than 200 choice varieties of this flower. In April of 
 every year a flower carnival is held, whose climax is a 
 unique procession of all sorts of fanciful equipages elabo- 
 rately decked with flowers and filled with joyous men, 
 women, and children in gala attire. While Eastern cities 
 are yet ice-bound, the streets of Santa Barbara are strewn 
 with exquisite cultivated flowers, which are held so 
 cheaply that they are not considered worth the trouble of 
 picking up. Ten thousand fine roses have been used on 
 these occasions to decorate a single vehicle. 
 
 The Santa Barbara Mission, situated in the northern 
 part of the city, nearly two miles from the beach, has 
 been preserved with care, and is regularly used for relig- 
 ious service. This is naturally one of the most noted 
 objects of interest to the newcomer, but there are scores 
 of other specific attractions, among which may be men- 
 tioned La Piedra Pintada, or the Painted Rock, a singular 
 relic of aboriginal art, situated four miles from town, 
 between the head of Montecito Valley and La Canada de 
 los Alisos. Whether these hieroglyphs were intended for 
 a serious record of events, or were mere idle conceits of 
 the barbaric artist, is not known. 
 
 Montecito, three miles from Santa Barbara, is a collec- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 237 
 
 tion of superb homes, thought by many to outrival even 
 Pasadena in beauty. 
 
 A favorite drive is westward to the Hollister and 
 Cooper ranches, enormous cultivated tracts devoted to 
 multifarious fruits and ornamental vegetation. 
 
 From twenty to thirty miles off the coast, southward 
 from Santa Barbara, are four islands. Anacapa, the most 
 easterly, is waterless. Formerly this was a favorite resort 
 for sea-otters, and is still a sunning-place for numerous 
 sea-lions. It has a peak over 900 feet above the sea. 
 
 Santa Cruz is the largest of the group, being twenty- 
 one miles long and about four miles in average width. 
 It reaches a height of 1,700 feet. Wood and water are 
 plentiful on parts of this island. 
 
 Santa Rosa is fifteen miles long by ten miles broad. It 
 attains an elevation of over 1,100 feet, and has numerous 
 springs. 
 
 San Miguel, the most western of the group, is 7^ miles 
 long and 2^ miles wide. This is the island on which the 
 dead body of Cabrillo, the Spanish navigator, is supposed 
 to have been buried, in January, 1543. 
 
 The chief value of these islands is for grazing, many 
 thousands of sheep finding subsistence there, and contrib- 
 uting very substantially to the annual export of wool from 
 California. They abound in picturesque localities, and 
 are rich in archaeological relics. No special facilities have 
 been provided to enable the tourist to visit them, but once 
 or twice a week fishing-boats leave Santa Barbara to fish 
 in the waters among the Channel Islands, and passage 
 can be secured on them for a reasonable consideration. 
 
 Los Angeles to San Francisco. — As far as Saugus 
 the route is the same as that to Santa Barbara (see p. 234). 
 At Saugus the railroad makes a sharp angle and runs a 
 
238 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 little north of east between the San Gabriel Range and the 
 Sierra Peluna, and then turns northward to Mojave. The 
 greater part of the region traversed is arid, and in the 
 neighborhood of Mojave distinctly desert. Here the water- 
 mirage is frequently seen, a perfect illusion of a placid 
 lake that would be bitter mockery to a caravan athirst. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Tropico, West Glendale, Sep- 
 ulveda, Burbank, Tejunga, Pacoima, Fernando, Tunnel, 
 Newhall, Saugus, Lang, Ravenna, Acton, Vincent, Harold, 
 Palmdale, Lancaster, Rosamond. 
 
 Mojave. — Los Angeles, loo miles; Chicago, 2,195 miles; St. 
 Louis, 2,055 miles; San Francisco, 382 miles. Dining station. 
 
 From this point the route is identical with that followed 
 by the traveler to San Francisco, who was temporarily 
 abandoned on page 201. The direction is generally north- 
 westward for about eighty miles, after which it sweeps 
 farther toward the north. The desert is soon left behind. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Cameron. 
 
 Teliachapi.— Chicago, 2,215 miles; St. Louis, 2,075 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 120 miles; San Francisco, 362 miles. Altitude, 4,025 feet. 
 Population, 255. 
 
 The descent of the pass of the Tehachapi Mountain is 
 full of beauty, and was accomplished for the Southern 
 Pacific Railroad with no little ingenuity. 
 
 The Loop. — Ten miles beyond Tehachapi. Altitude, 
 3,050 feet. Here a complete loop is made in the railroad. 
 The length of the loop is 3,795 feet; the altitude at the 
 crossing over the tunnel, 3,034 feet; and the altitude of the 
 tunnel, 2,956 feet, a local advantage of seventy-eight feet in 
 elevation being thus gained. The grade is heavy and con- 
 tinues for many miles — through Keene, 2,705 feet; Beal- 
 ville, 1,793 feet; Caliente, 1,290 feet; Pampa, 672 feet; 
 Wade, 567 feet, and then we have fairly entered the San 
 Joaquin Valley. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 239 
 
 Bakersfield. — Chicago, 2,263 miles; St. Louis, 2,123 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 168 miles; San Francisco, 314 miles. Altitude, 415 feet. 
 Population, 2,626. Dining station. 
 
 County-seat of Kern County, on the Kern River, which 
 supplies the greater part of the water used on the exten- 
 sive irrigated lands of this county, 650 miles of ditches 
 being fed by it. This region was desert, too, until water 
 
 TEHACHAPI PASS. 
 
 was supplied, and now it is one of the most productive 
 portions of the valley. Fields of alfalfa and grain, and 
 vineyards and orchards abound where a short time ago 
 only a few tenacious shrubs relieved the monotony of the 
 plain. 
 
 The county contains an artesian belt, with many flow- 
 ing wells, likewise used for irrigating purposes. Salt, lime, 
 petroleum, and asphaltum are among the natural products 
 of Kern County, and its mines have yielded a total value of 
 
240 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 
 
 nearly one and a half millions. Apples, walnuts, almonds, 
 apricots, peaches, figs, grapes, sugar-cane, tobacco, cotton, 
 hops, and the cereals are successfully grown. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Glenburn, Lerdo, Kimber- 
 lena. 
 
 Poso. — Twenty miles beyond Bakersfield. Junction with a side 
 line through Portersville to the main line again at Fresno. Altitude, 
 414 feet. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Delano, Alila, Pixley, Tipton, 
 Tokay. 
 
 Tulare. — Chicago, 2,326 miles; St. Louis, 2.186 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 231 miles; San Francisco, 251 miles. Altitude, 282 feet. 
 Population, 2,697. 
 
 Junction with branch line to Visalia. Tulare Lake, a 
 few miles distant on the west, is a large body of water, 
 surrounded by marshes, and covering several townships. 
 
 Intermediate Station: Tagus. 
 
 Goshen Junction.— Ten miles beyond Tulare. Altitude, 286 
 feet. 
 
 Junction with side line to Visalia on the east, and on 
 the west with line through Hanford, thence northwest- 
 ward to Tracy. 
 
 Visalia is the county-seat of Tulare County, with a 
 population of 2,885. Mount Whitney, the highest point 
 in the United States outside of Alaska, stands upon the 
 eastern border of this county, and within its limits, in the 
 Sierras, the Kern, King's, Kaweah, Tule, and White rivers 
 take rise. There are 800,000 acres contained within six 
 irrigation districts in this county, there being more than 
 500 miles of main canals, besides a large mileage of lateral 
 ditches. Here, also, is an artesian belt, from whose wells an 
 almost incredible amount of water steadily flows. One well 
 alone is said to give 35,000,000 gallons per day. Grain and 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Ul 
 
 16 
 
242 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 stock raising- have been the chief industries in the past, 
 but orchards and vineyards have recently found favor, 
 and large areas have been planted with trees and vines. 
 The county contains a single raisin vineyard of 960 acres, 
 and there are large orchards of the deciduous fruits. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Cross Creek, Traver, Kings- 
 burg, Selma, Fowler, Malaga. 
 
 Fresno. — Chicago, 2,370 miles; St. Louis, 2,230 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 275 miles; San Francisco, 207 miles. Altitude, 293 feet. 
 Population, 10,818. Dining station. 
 
 Junction with side line from Poso and with new line to 
 Tracy, west of the main line. 
 
 County-seat of Fresno County, a modern metropolitan 
 city, and center of the wool, raisin, wine, and fruit trade 
 industries of the San Joaquin Valley. The farm-lands of 
 this county are irrigated by the San Joaquin and King's 
 rivers. Here, also, deciduous fruits, and cotton, tobacco, 
 etc., are profitably cultivated, but the soil and climate are 
 particularly adapted to the culture and preparation of the 
 raisin-grape. At least half the raisin crop of the State is 
 produced in this county, the yield in 1891 being 1,200,000 
 boxes. There is one vineyard of 600 acres. Two and 
 sometimes three crops of raisin-grapes are gathered in 
 the year. 
 
 The manufacture of lumber is also an important indus- 
 try in Fresno County, the mountains being covered with a 
 dense growth of cedar, redwood, and pine. The precious 
 metals, also, have been produced in considerable quantity. 
 
 Fresno city is well worth a leisurely visit. 
 
 FRESNO TO TRACY VIA BERENDA AND LATHROP. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Muscatel, Herndon, Irrigosa, 
 Borden. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 243 
 
 "iHOf , 
 
 iVcc 
 
 THE THREE BROTHERS, VOSEMITE. 
 
244 N£W GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Madera. — Twenty-two miles beyond Fresno. Population, 950. 
 
 Altitude, 278 feet. 
 
 The location of the John Brown colony. 
 
 Berenda. — Chicago, 2,399 miles; St. Louis, 2,259 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 304 miles; San Francisco, 178 miles. Altitude, 256 feet. 
 
 Junction with branch line to Raymond on the east, 
 where connection is made by stage for the Yosemite 
 Valley and the Mariposa Big Trees. 
 
 The Yosemite and the Mariposa Grove. — This 
 remarkable valley of the Sierras lies in Mariposa County, 
 at an elevation of 4,060 feet, 4,000 feet below the crests of 
 the inclosing mountains. The valley proper is seven 
 miles long, and its greatest width is 2^ miles, although 
 it is for the most part from one-half to three-quarters of a 
 mile wide. The Merced River, a tributary of the San 
 Joaquin, flows through its gorges and between banks 
 decked with flowers or shaded with cedars, silver pines, 
 and oaks. The walls of the Yosemite are of granite, and 
 stupendous in magnificence. On the northern side stands 
 El Capitan, a mass of bare granite 3,300 feet high; the 
 Three Brothers, Yosemite Point, the Royal Arches, 
 Washington Tower, and the North Dome. On the south- 
 ern side are Inspiration Point, Cathedral Rocks, Cathe- 
 dral Spires, Sentinel Rock and Dome, Glacier Point, and 
 the wall of the Tululawiak Canon. At the eastern end 
 are Grizzly Peak and Half (or South) Dome, the latter 
 rising to a height of over 4,000 feet above its base and 
 crowned with a summit whose area is ten acres. There 
 are nine principal waterfalls: Bridal Veil, a slender, sway- 
 ing column of spray 900 feet high; Ribbon, Sentinel, 
 Yosemite, which falls 2,600 feet in three sections, one of 
 which is a vertical plunge of 1,500 feet; Royal Arch, 
 Tululawiak, Vernal, Nevada, and Cascade. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 245 
 
 THE BIG TREES. 
 
246 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Although the area of the entire Yosemite Valley 
 proper is very small as compared with the titanic chasm 
 of the Grand Canon of the Colorado River, it touches sub- 
 limity of beauty. Another valley, the Hetch-Hetchy, is 
 included in the Yosemite National Park. This is similar 
 in character, but less frequently visited because of the 
 difficulties that intervene. 
 
 The word Yosemite is Indian, and signifies Great 
 Grizzly Bear. The original Indian name was Ahwahnee. 
 
 The railroad branch from Berenda to Raymond (not to 
 be confounded with Raymond near Los Angeles) is 
 twenty-one miles in length. Beyond Raymond the dis- 
 tance to the Yosemite is about sixty miles, and is made 
 by stage in a day and a half; the stop over night being 
 made at Wawona. There are good hotel accommodations 
 in the valley. On the return the stage leaves Yosemite 
 in the morning and reaches Wawona at noon, where the 
 remainder of the day is allowed for visiting the Mariposa 
 Big Trees. In this grove of giant Sequoias there are 427 
 trees, the largest of which is thirty-four feet in diameter, 
 the height ranging from 150 to 300 feet. A cut has been 
 made through the standing trunk of one of them, large 
 enough to permit the passage of the stage-coach with its 
 load of passengers. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Califa, Minturn, Athlone, 
 Lingard. 
 
 Merced.^ Twenty-six miles beyond Berenda. Altitude. 171 
 feet. Population, 2,000. Junction with side line, on the east of 
 main line to Stockton. 
 
 County-seat of Merced County. The soil and climate 
 are adapted to fruits and cereals. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Atwater, Arena, Livings- 
 ton, Turlock, Ceres. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST, 247 
 
 Modesto. — Thirty-eight miles beyond Merced. Population, 
 2,402. Altitude, 91 feet. 
 
 County-seat of Stanislaus County. All the principal 
 California fruits, nuts, vegetables, and grains are raised in 
 this locality. 
 
 Intermediate Stations: Salida, Ripon. 
 
 Latlirop. — Chicago, 2,483 miles; St. Louis, 2,343 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 388 miles; San Francisco, 94 miles. Altitude, 26 feet. 
 Population, 577. Dining station. Junction with line running north- 
 ward through Stockton and San Francisco. 
 
 Intermediate Station; Banta. 
 
 Tracy. — Chicago, 2,494 miles; St. Louis, 2,354 miles; Los An- 
 geles, 399 miles; San Francisco, S3 miles. Altitude, 64 feet. Junction 
 with new line from Fresno via Collis, and with line through Niles to 
 San Jose and Oakland. 
 
 FRESNO TO TRACY, VIA COLLIS. 
 
 Collis. — Fifteen miles from Fresno, Altitude, 219 feet. 
 Mendota. — Thirty-four miles from Fresno. Altitude, 178 feet. 
 Los Baiios. — Sixty-eight miles from Fresno. Altitude, 121 
 feet. 
 
 !N"ew'maii. — Eighty-nine miles from Fresno. Altitude, 92 feet. 
 Tracy. — One hundred and twenty-six miles from Fresno. 
 
 Tracy to San Francisco, via Port Costa. — Beyond 
 Bethany, Byron, and Brentwood, in the vicinity of Antioch, 
 twenty-eight miles from Tracy, the road swings westward 
 by the side of the confluent San Joaquin and Sacramento 
 rivers, through Avon and Martinez, on Suisun Bay, and 
 Port Costa and Vallejo Junction, at the head of San Pablo 
 Bay; thence by the shore of that bay, and southward 
 along the bay of San Francisco to the city of Oakland. 
 Most of this interval lies in Contra Costa County, in the 
 center of which Mount Diablo rises 3,860 feet directly from 
 the level of the sea. From the summit of Mount Diablo 
 
248 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 a territory as large as that of the entire State of New 
 York, embracing thirty cities and villages that include one- 
 half the population of California, may be surveyed. 
 
 The principal smelters of the Pacific Coast are located 
 at Vallejo Junction. The anchorage of Port Costa is fresh- 
 water, and of sufficient depth to accommodate the largest 
 ships, as is also the case as far back as Antioch, on the San 
 Joaquin. At Port Costa north-bound trains are ferried 
 across. At a number of points along this water-front are 
 immense docks and warehouses. 
 
 The distance between San Francisco and the most 
 important stations along this last stage is as follows: 
 Antioch, 55 miles; Martinez, 36 miles; Port Costa, 32 
 miles; Vallejo Junction, 29 miles. 
 
 Oakland. — Chicago, 2,573 miles; St. Louis, 2,433 miles; Los 
 Angeles, 478 miles; San Francisco, 4 miles. Population, 48,682. 
 Altitude (pier), 14 feet. 
 
 The first stopping of the train is at Sixteenth vStreet, 
 and the second and last is at Oakland Pier, two miles 
 beyond, where passengers leave the train and take the 
 ferry across the bay to San Francisco. 
 
 Oakland is the county-seat of Alameda County. It con- 
 tains, in addition to a large number of public city schools, 
 many seminaries, academies, etc., a medical college, and 
 Chabot Observatory. 
 
 It stands upon a peninsula that extends into the bay 
 from the Contra Costra Range, from whose elevation the 
 bay, the Golden Gate, and the cities of Oakland and San 
 Francisco are seen as in a panorama. Oakland is an 
 exceedingly attractive city, besides being a great manu- 
 facturing and commercial center. 
 
 Alameda, a city of 11,165 inhabitants, neighbors it upon 
 the south, with separate ferries to San Francisco, 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 249 
 
 Directly west of Oakland, against the northern shores 
 of San Francisco, lies the Golden Gate, ahead and a little 
 to the right of the course of the ferryboat. It is the only 
 tideway between the bay and the ocean, a passage 3^ 
 miles long and one mile wide, separating two embracing 
 peninsulas. 
 
 San Francisco.— Chicago, 2,577 miles; St. Louis, 2,437 miles; 
 Los Angeles, 482 miles. Population, 298,997. Altitude, from sea- 
 level to 938 feet above. Altitude at Market Street Ferry, 12 feet. 
 
 Like most cities of the upper Pacific Coast, San Fran- 
 cisco is built upon many hills, some of which, like Mission 
 Peaks and Russian, Telegraph, Rincon, and Reservoir 
 hills, are abrupt and lofty. It occupies an entire county, 
 which bears the same name, covering the northern 
 extremity of the southernmost of the two peninsulas 
 which separate San Francisco Bay from the Pacific 
 Ocean. This bay is sixty-five miles long, and has an 
 average width of eight miles. Upon the ocean front, at 
 Point Lobos, a good sand-beach, the Seal Rocks, and the 
 surmounting bluff of Sutro Heights form an attractive 
 resort. On the Golden Gate frontage, at Fort Point, is 
 the Presidio Reservation, a military station with the 
 largest garrison on the Pacific Coast. Fort Point is 
 furnished with heavy cannon, and commands the nar- 
 rowest part of the Golden Gate. Alcatraz Island and 
 Angel Island are likewise fortified. 
 
 San Francisco was founded in 1850 as a city, although 
 since 1776 there has been a settlement here in conse- 
 quence of the erection and maintenance of the Mission 
 Dolores. The principal thoroughfare is Market Street, 
 which begins at the ferry slips on the bay. The finest 
 residences are located principally on California Street and 
 Van Ness Avenue. Only of late has San Francisco ven- 
 
250 
 
 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 tured upon the construction of tall and substantial busi- 
 ness buildings, because of the supposition that earth- 
 quakes would destroy them. For this reason the city is 
 less imposing- architecturally than many centers of a 
 smaller population in other parts of the country; but the 
 immunity enjoyed by the first experiments in many- 
 
 CHINESE RESTAURANT. 
 
 Storied structures of brick and stone has given confidence 
 in that direction, and every year many handsome edifices 
 arise. The residences, however, are chiefly frame build- 
 ings, although many are very costly. 
 
 Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley, San Rafael, Menlo Park, 
 etc., are used by many San Francisco business men for 
 suburban homes. It is also claimed that a greater num- 
 ber of permanent residents live in this city, in hotels and 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 251 
 
 boarding-houses, than is the case in any other city of the 
 United States. Of hotels there are more than a hundred, 
 and an extraordinary number of family boarding-houses, 
 lodging-houses, and restaurants, among which last the 
 visitor who enjoys knocking about may learn, by jtidi- 
 cious inquiry, of two or three places, externally unpreten- 
 tious, which for excellence of food and service can hardly 
 be surpassed. 
 
 There are nine public libraries and many large private 
 book collections, 114 churches and eighty-nine graded 
 public schools. The city hall and the United States Mint 
 are the noblest buildings. There are many public parks 
 of various size, the largest of which is Golden Gate Park 
 — the site of the Midwinter Fair of 1894 — an exquisite 
 garden of 1,013 acres reached by a short ride on the 
 street-cars. 
 
 The Mission Dolores stands on the corner of Dolores 
 and Sixteenth streets. 
 
 San Francisco's Chinatown. — The abode of the Celes- 
 tials covers about ten blocks in the heart of the city. 
 They number more than 20,000, and follow the vocations 
 of laborer, laundryman, and merchant for outside patrons, 
 and are engaged in every conceivable industry and trade 
 among themselves, dwelling in and on the houses, and 
 underground in a labyrinth of dark passages and closet- 
 like compartments. The Flowery Kingdom itself can 
 hardly be more typically Chinese, for the quarter is 
 entirely given up to them. Endowed with a fair ability 
 to endure disagreeable odors, and to confront many sights 
 that are not congenial to a highly civilized taste, the 
 visitor to Chinatown will find much of absorbing interest. 
 While the Chinese stores are frequented by day, for the 
 purpose of making purchases, the conventional trip is 
 made at night, in charge of a guide, who can be secured 
 
252 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 at short notice on application to the clerk at any of the 
 leading hotels. Almost every night in the year tourists 
 are thus conducted through Chinatown, and the solitary 
 traveler who desires the experience can usually arrange 
 to join a party, the cost of employing the guide being 
 divided on a per capita basis. About three hours are 
 consumed in making the customary round, which is so 
 planned as to give the visitor a fair notion of the life of 
 this quaint community. Shops of merchants, butchers, 
 apothecaries, and artisans, and restaurants, joss-houses, 
 theaters, gambling quarters, and opium dens are features 
 of the programme. 
 
 The joss-houses, or temples, are very richly furnished 
 and contain a number of hideous images of Chinese gods. 
 The air is pungent with the fumes of burning joss-sticks and 
 sandal-wood, and the worshipful attendants will interro- 
 gate Fate on behalf of the inquisitive for a consideration. 
 
 In the restaurants excellent tea and many palatable 
 dainties are served. They are very neat and quiet, and 
 in some instances the furniture is elaborate and costly. 
 
 In the theater will be found much that is grotesque 
 and entertaining, aside from the purport of the play, which 
 will be mainly unintelligible to the average Caucasian 
 visitor. The stage is very deep, and on it are gathered 
 actors, musicians, supernumeraries, and itinerant sight- 
 seers. The actors fairly elbow their way to and from the 
 clear center of the stage; visitors and stage-hands smoke 
 and walk about at will; the orchestra in the rear, made 
 up of heavy cymbals or gongs and shrill-stringed instru- 
 ments, hammers and squeals to give emotional stress to 
 the passages of the play, and the actors deliver their parts 
 in a forced artificial voice, half-singing in monotonous 
 cadences. Only the most rudimentary suggestion of 
 scenery is used, and only men are permitted to imperson- 
 
New guide to the pacific coast. ^53 
 
 ate, as on the Eng-lisli stage up to a comparatively recent 
 date. Youths, beautifully costumed, and made up for the 
 part, bear the female roles, and speak in falsetto tones. 
 Some of these impersonators are celebrated actors among 
 their race, and draw crowded houses, like the famous 
 actresses of other nations. The plays are long-drawn out, 
 and many of them require several evenings for a complete 
 performance, although there are dramas that can be given 
 entire between the hours of 5 p. m. and midnight. Many 
 current Chinese plays are classics, having held the boards 
 for many centuries with undiminished popularity. Of 
 the Chinese theater-goers, the men sit in the pit with their 
 hats on, and the women in the galleries. There is no 
 applause, beyond the tribute of strained silence in the 
 tragic passages and laughter in the coinedy portions, 
 which, in the case of the female roles, are often rendered 
 in a manner so mischievous and sparkling, and so full of 
 feminine grace, as to call for a high artistic ability in the 
 performance. 
 
 In regard to opium smoking, it should be stated that 
 among the better class of Chinese, who are usually 
 worthy of respect and confidence, the practice is deprecated 
 and avoided, as any degraded habit is frowned upon by 
 the refined among other nationalities. There are many 
 Chinamen who smoke opium, but there are as many or 
 more who do not. The opium pipe is a long-stemmed 
 affair, with a thick round head which is nearly flat on top 
 and solid except for a small aperture in the center. With 
 this and a small lamp, tray, and implements for the manip- 
 ulation of the drug at his side, the smoker, curled up on 
 a broad bench or bunk, takes a small quantity of prepared 
 opium on the end of a needle-like implement and holds it 
 in the flame of the lamp, turning it over and over. The 
 opium swells and undergoes a process of partial roasting 
 
254 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 while it is alternately held in the flame and rolled into a 
 ball on the top of the pipe. When it has been brought to 
 the proper condition it is pressed upon the aperture of the 
 pipe, perforated by the needle, and held to the flame 
 again while the smoker inhales the fumes through the 
 pipe-stem. Two or three puffs exhaust the opium, and 
 the process is repeated until the smoker is satisfied or 
 stupefied. There are haggard and wasted old men in 
 Chinatown who are said to subsist almost wholly upon the 
 smoke of opium. 
 
 The Society of Highbinders is a perversion of an 
 organization originally instituted in China by a band of 
 patriots, and corrupted before its importation into this 
 country. Blackmail, illicit traffic, and personal and party 
 feuds were pursued under this organization in San Fran- 
 cisco until the audacity of its deeds of violence and its 
 defiance of law became a scandal, and public opinion 
 demanded its suppression. Foremost in the movement 
 for its destruction were the women of the Chinese mis- 
 sions, whose sympathy was excited for the female slaves 
 imported from China by members of the society and 
 landed by the aid of corrupt American lawyers who were 
 fertile in expedients for evading the law. A descent upon 
 the strongholds of the Highbinders was made by the 
 police, and many were captured, some of whom were 
 executed and others imprisoned for their crimes. The 
 society was not absolutely destroyed, but only at long 
 intervals during the past two years has any outbreak 
 occurred that could be charged to it. 
 
 SOUTHWARD FROM SAN FRANCISCO, THROUGH THE SANTA 
 
 CLARA VALLEY. 
 
 Santa Clara Valley. — Southeastward from San Fran- 
 cisco, west of the bay, the Coast Division (Third and Town- 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 255 
 
 send Streets Station) of the Southern Pacific Railroad 
 extends, continuing on through the spacious valley of 
 Santa Clara, which is hemmed by hills and mountains. 
 This lovely valley, which constitutes the horticultural 
 region of Santa Clara County, has a larger acreage of 
 orchards and vineyards than any other county in the State. 
 The largest seed-farms in the world and one-half of all the 
 prune trees in the United States are here, and one-half 
 the total annual crop of strawberries in the United States 
 is raised here. The largest horse-breeding establishment in 
 the United States and the largest herds of Jersey cattle 
 are also in vSanta Clara County, and its list of superlatives 
 further includes the Lick Observatory, with the largest 
 telescope in the world, and the Stanford University. 
 
 The visitor to Palo Alto, San Jose, Santa Cruz, and 
 Monterey will pass through this valley. 
 
 Palo Alto. — Thirty-three miles from San Francisco. Altitude, 
 
 57 feet. 
 
 Location of the Leland Stanford Junior University and 
 of the Stanford stables, which can also be reached from 
 Menlo Park, the station one mile above Palo Alto. Public 
 carriages are in waiting on arrival of trains. 
 
 The university, a memorial of the only son of the late 
 Senator Stanford, is situated in a campus of 8,000 acres, 
 which contains the mausoleum of the Stanfords — a small 
 Greek temple of marble — and a great variety of trees and 
 shrubs. The entire estate w^hich ultimately is to accrue 
 comprises 85,000 acres. The architecture of the buildings 
 is Romanesque, after the type of the old missions — twelve 
 oblong one-story structures of buff sandstone connected 
 by a continuous arcade around an immense inner court 
 containing three and a quarter acres, paved with asphalt 
 and ornamented with beds of tropical flowers. All this is 
 to be inclosed in another quadrangle whose buildings 
 
256 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 will be two stories high; and six smaller quadrangles out- 
 side the great quadrangle are included in the plan of 
 future extension. The dormitories are taller buildings, 
 with elevators, electric lights, hot and cold water, steam 
 heat, etc. There are also cottages used by the president 
 and the professors for homes, and a noble museum build- 
 ing. The scope of the university is broad. Students are 
 encouraged to choose their future calling, and their course 
 of study is shaped accordingly. It is open to both sexes. 
 The Stanford stables are full of entertainment and 
 instruction for those who take an interest in race-horses 
 and their training. The establishment includes stables, 
 paddocks, " kindergartens " in which colts are taught 
 from a tender age what is expected of them upon a track, 
 and race-courses for the older horses. 
 
 Sail Jose.— Fifty miles from San Francisco. Altitude, 86 feet. 
 Population, 18,060. 
 
 Connected with San Francisco by two other railroad 
 lines, which run east of the bay. This city, together with 
 its immediate neighbor Santa Clara, ships enormous quan- 
 tities of green, dried, and canned fruits, berries, wine, 
 brandy, and miscellaneous products. It is a wealthy mod- 
 ern city, with broad macadamized streets, excellent busi- 
 ness blocks, attractive residences, many chtirches and 
 schools, half a dozen banks, and first-rate hotels. 
 
 From San Jose a stage makes daily the round trip to 
 Lick Observatory, only thirteen miles distant in an air 
 line, but twenty-six miles by the road, which overcomes 
 the mountain slopes by regular gradients involving 367 
 turns. The observatory is situated on the summit of 
 Mount Hamilton, whose altitude is 4,443 feet. It was a 
 bequest of the late James Lick, a millionaire of San Jose, 
 and cost $750,000. The glass of the great telescope. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 257 
 
 thirty-six inches in diameter, consumed three years' labor 
 in making, and cost $55,000. This is the glass through 
 which the fifth satellite of Jupiter was discovered by 
 Professor Barnard in 1892. On Saturday night in every 
 week, between the hours of 7 and 10 o'clock, visitors 
 are permitted to gaze through the great Lick telescope, 
 and on that night the stage returns to San Jose at a late 
 hour for the accommodation of those who desire to avail 
 themselves of this privilege. On other days, however, all 
 visitors are courteously shown through the observatory, 
 and allowed to look through a twelve-inch telescope, 
 which is powerful enough to magnify Venus to apparently 
 half the size of the moon, and render it visible at bright- 
 est midday. 
 
 Monterey. — One hundred and twenty-five miles from San 
 Francisco. Altitude (at station), 5 feet. Population, 1,662. 
 
 Named by Viscaino in 1602, in honor of the patron of 
 his expedition, Gaspar de Zuniga, Count of Monte Rey. 
 Monte means either ^' mountain " or " forest " in the Span- 
 ish tongue, but, in the case of Count Zuniga, Monte Rey 
 signified " Mountain King," and that, therefore, is the 
 proper translation of the name of this old town. In the 
 case of the Hotel del Monte, however, the word montc 
 means "forest," and del ntonte means "of the forest." 
 This noble hotel, whose fame is inseparable from that of 
 Monterey, stands among live-oaks and pines of great size 
 and age, in a wonderful garden of 126 acres, whose bloom 
 is most gorgeous in time of winter — rose, pansy, calla, 
 heliotrope, narcissus, tulip, and crocus fraternizing with 
 rare flowering plants from regions south of the equator. 
 Every provision for enjoyment has been made for guests, 
 both indoors and out. There are row-boats on a lake of 
 fifteen acres extent within the grounds, tennis courts, cro- 
 17 
 
258 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 quet grounds, swings, mazes, delightful shady walks along 
 which benches are scattered, and perfectly-kept macadam- 
 ized drives leading to natural attractions of hill, valley, 
 and shore. 
 
 The town of Monterey is a mile distant from the hotel, 
 at the southern end of the bay. Here, first in California, 
 a cross was planted, an altar erected, and a mass cele- 
 brated, by Viscaino, in 1602. In 1770 Serra founded here, 
 by the sea, the mission San Carlos de Monterey, which in 
 the following year was removed to Carmelo Valley, five 
 miles back from the coast, and renamed San Carlos de 
 Carmelo. The old stone church still stands, the remains 
 of Serra buried beneath its sanctuary. Here took place 
 the first Indian baptism in California, and the first Euro- 
 pean woman to emigrate to these shores arrived at Monte- 
 rey in 1783. 
 
 Two miles beyond the tow^n is Pacific Grove. A few 
 years ago this was merely an annual camping-ground for 
 the Conference of the Methodist Episcopal church. It has 
 grown to a pretty town which numbers 5,000 inhabitants 
 in the height of the season. Various religious and tem- 
 perance organizations hold conventions here from year to 
 year. Bathing, sailing, and fishing are to be had. 
 
 Half a mile beyond Pacific Grove is Point Pinos, upon 
 which stands an old granite light-house, still in service, 
 and beyond that lies Moss Beach. 
 
 From the Hotel del Monte a roadway leads through 
 Monterey across the peninsula, and past Pescadero Beach, 
 Chinese Cove, Pebble Beach, Cypress Point, Seal Rocks, 
 Moss Beach, and through Pacific Grove back to the hotel. 
 This is " the seventeen-mile drive," and includes most of 
 the points of interest at Monterey. 
 
 Santa Cruz. — One hundred and twenty-one miles from San 
 Francisco. Altitude, 18 feet. Population, 5,596. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 259 
 
 Reached either by way of the Monterey line (Coast 
 Division) as far as Pajaro, thence via the Santa Cruz line, 
 or all the way by the Santa Cruz Division, leaving San 
 Francisco by the Alameda ferry at the foot of Market 
 Street, and from Alameda coasting the eastern shore of 
 the bay and passing through San Jose and Pajaro. 
 
 Before the building of the Hotel del Monte at Monte- 
 rey, and the Hotel del Coronado at Coronado, Santa Cruz 
 
 BIG TREES NEAR SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 was the most fashionable seaside resort in the State, and 
 it is still very popular. It lies opposite Monterey, on the 
 north, upon the same bay. Its location and surroundings 
 are highly picturesque and full of interest, and the 
 climate is only less delightful than at Monterey. There 
 is a bathing beach of fine white sand, and there are many 
 enjoyable drives; the light-house. Natural Bridge, Laguna 
 Falls, Ben Lomond Road, Pebbly Beach, Magnetic Spring, 
 
360 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Loma Prieta, and the Big Tree Grove being a few of the 
 attractions. This grove of mammoth redwoods [Sequoia 
 senipervirens) is one of the sights of California, and not at 
 all to be despised by the traveler who has seen the Sequoia 
 gigantea, and is very easily visited, being only five miles 
 distant by rail from Santa Cruz. It covers twenty acres, 
 and numbers scores of trees from ten to twenty feet in 
 diameter, the largest being 300 feet high and 21 feet 
 through at the base. In 1847 Fremont camped in the 
 hollow of one of these redwoods, which bears his name. 
 
 San LiViis Obispo. — Two hundred and forty-six miles from San 
 Francisco. Population, 2,995. 
 
 This poetic town lies ten miles beyond the end of the 
 Coast Division, connected with the railroad at Santa 
 Margarita by stage. 
 
 It can also be reached from Santa Barbara by stage to 
 Los Olivos, forty-five miles, and thence via the Pacific 
 Coast Railway, sixty-six miles. 
 
 Here this guide-book properly comes to a close. There 
 are numerous points of interest in California upon the 
 north and east of San Francisco, but their description can 
 not be undertaken herein. The reader will find below, 
 however, a brief memorandum l(5cating and individual- 
 izing half a dozen cities whose names are most familiar. 
 
 Berkeley. — Population, 5,101. A short distance north of Oak- 
 land, reached by electric and steam roads, the seat of the University 
 of California, and a suburb of San Francisco. 
 
 Stockton. — Ninety-two miles from San Francisco, via Niles 
 and Tracy. One hundred and three miles via Port Costa and Tracy. 
 Population, 14,424. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 261 
 
 A manufacturing center, in a prosperous agricultural 
 region. 
 
 Sacramento. — Ninety miles from San Francisco, via Port 
 Costa and Benicia. One hundred and forty miles via Niles, Tracy, 
 and Stockton. Also reached by river steamers from San Francisco. 
 Altitude, 30 feet. Population, 26,386. 
 
 The capital of the State. A center of railroads, manu- 
 facture, and trade. Situated at the junction of the Ogden 
 Route and the Shasta Route of the Southern Pacific Com- 
 pany. It is a well-built city, containing many features of 
 interest, among which the capitol and the Crocker Art 
 Gallery with a very valuable collection of paintings are 
 conspicuous. 
 
 Marysville.— One hundred and twenty-five miles from San 
 Francisco via Davis and Woodland; 142 miles via Port Costa, Benicia, 
 and Sacramento. Altitude, 66 feet. Population, 3,991. 
 
 A wholesale trade center. 
 
 Napa. — Forty-six miles from San Francisco via Vallejo Junc- 
 tion. Population, 4,395. 
 
 Location of the Napa Soda Springs. 
 
 Santa Rosa.— Seventy-five miles from San Francisco via Val- 
 lejo Junction. Population, 5,220. 
 
 In Sonoma County, which is famous for fruits. Fruit- 
 canning and wine-making are the chief industries. 
 
VOCABULARY OF SPANISH AND INDIAN 
 
 NAMES. 
 
 Note. — Except for the purpose of determining the syllabic accent 
 of Spanish words, the reader who may chance to be unfamiliar with 
 the Spanish tongue will have little need of a pronouncing dictionary 
 if he will take note of the following easily remembered rules govern- 
 ing the sound of vowels and the exceptional consonants: 
 
 A never has the sound of a in fate, but is sounded as in father. 
 dislike a mfate, and sometimes short, as in met. /is like eein. 
 feet, and sometimes short, as in bit. O is nearly as sonorous as in 
 the English word bo7ie. (The clipped enunciation of the vowels oa 
 in road, coat, etc., which one occasionally hears, is a more exact 
 equivalent.) ^'^is never like u in acute, nor quite like <?^ in fioon; 
 but like ti in full. Fis sounded like the Spanish /. 
 
 Mexicans do not lisp s and soft c, as do Castilians, but give them 
 the harshest sibilance of the letter s. //is not sounded at all, except 
 when combined with c (when the two form a distinct consonant, 
 which is invariably sounded as in church). G (when soft) and/ are 
 sounded almost precisely like ch in the German word Ich. It is 
 almost impossible to acquire the exact sound except by imitation. It 
 is a guttural, lying somewhere between the letter k and a forcibly 
 aspirated h. For all practical purposes the latter will suffice. LI is 
 a separate letter of the alphabet, and in Spain has the sound of ///in 
 million, but the Spanish-speaking peoples of America universally 
 give it only the sound of an initial /, or of long e, as in Cerrillo (a 
 little hill), which is pronounced ser-r^-yo. fj {ii with the tilde) is a 
 distinct letter and is sounded like Jiy in cafiyon. 
 
 An English phonetic equivalent for the sound of foreign words, 
 without the use of special marks, is not always practicable. One 
 reason, among others, is that the equivalent offered will frequently 
 be found to take on the form of an English word, by whose proper 
 pronunciation the reader is liable to be misled. An example in 
 
 (263) 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 263 
 
 point is the Spanish syllable los, whose pronunciation can not be 
 communicated on a printed page by letters alone, for the natural 
 phonetic equivalent would be spelled lose, and this is a word which 
 happens to be pronounced quite unlike that whose sound is sought to 
 be conveyed. In the following pages, therefore, where will be 
 found a list of the most prominent Spanish names mentioned in the 
 present volume as likely to be encountered on the journey, together 
 with their pronunciation and their signification, unless they have 
 been corrupted beyond identification with the original word, a few 
 of the marks commonly used in dictionaries will be availed of to indi- 
 cate the sound of vowels, namely, a as '\r\. father, a as m. fate, e as 
 infeet, e as in met, 1 as in bite, i as in bit, o as in bo7ie, o as in short, 
 ic as \nfull. 
 
 Acequia (A-sa'-ke-a). Irrigating ditch. 
 
 Acequia Madre (A-sa'-ke-a Ma'-dre). Parent (mother), or main 
 ditch. 
 
 Acoma [Indian] (A'-c5-ma). A pueblo of the Queres in New 
 Mexico. 
 
 Adobe (A-do'-be). Sun-dried brick made of earth, mixed with 
 chopped straw. Also a kind of soil whose character corresponds 
 with that suitable for making adobe. 
 
 Agua Caliente (A'-wa Cal-yen'-te). Hot water. 
 
 Agua Fria (A'-wa Fre'-ya). Cold water. 
 
 Alameda (A-la-ma'-da). A grove of poplars; a shaded walk. 
 
 Alcatraz (Al-ca-tras'). Pelican. 
 
 Albuquerque (Al-bii-ker'-ke). Family name. Possibly a corruption 
 of albaricoque, apricot. 
 
 Algodones (Al-go-dd'-nes). Cottons; cotton lands. 
 
 Aliso (A-le'-s6). Alder-bush. 
 
 Almaden (Al-ma-den'). A place of mineral deposits. 
 
 Amargosa (A-mar-go'-sa). Bitter. 
 
 Anacapa (A-na-ca'-pa). One of the channel islands off Santa 
 Barbara. 
 
 Arena (A-ra'-na). Sand. 
 
 Arroyo (Ar-ro'-yo). A wash made by water; an intermittent 
 water-channel; less than a caiion. 
 
 Arroyo Seco (Sa'-co). A dry arroyo. 
 
 Azusa (A-sii'-sa). Provocation; annoyance. 
 
 Bano (Ban'-yo). Bath. 
 
 Belen (Ba-len'). The name is associated with a famous siege in 
 Spain. 
 
264 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Bernal (Ber-nal'). Proper name. 
 
 Bernalillo (Ber-na-le'-yo). Little Bernal. 
 
 Buenaventura (B'wa'-na-ven-tii'-ra). Good luck. 
 
 Buena Vista (B'wa'-na Ves'-ta). Unobstructed view. 
 
 Cabeza de Vaca (Ca-ba'-sa de Va''-ca). Cow's head; a Spanish 
 explorer. 
 
 Cabrillo, Juan Rodriguez (Ca-brel'-yo, H 'wan Ro-dre'-ghes). A 
 Spanish navigator. 
 
 Cajon (Ca-hon'). Box. 
 
 Cajon Pass. Box pass. 
 
 Calaveras (Ca-la-va'-ras). Skulls. 
 
 Califa (Ca-le'-fa). Caliph. 
 
 Canada (Can-ya'-da). Glen; dale. 
 
 Canada delos Alisos (A-le'-s6s). Alder-glen. 
 
 Canon (Can-yon'), but commonly accented on the first syllable. A 
 ravine; a deep fissure. 
 
 Canon de Chelly (Sha). A canon in New Mexico. 
 
 Canon Diablo (De-a'-bl6). Devil Canon. 
 
 Carpinteria(Car-pin-ter-e'-a). Carpenter shop. 
 
 Carrizo (Car-re'-so). A kind of reed grass. 
 
 Casa Blanca (Ca-sa Blan'-ca). White house. 
 
 Casa Grande (Gran'-de). Big house. 
 
 Centinela (Sen-ti-nel'-a). Sentinel. 
 
 Cerrillos (Ser-re'-yos). Small round hills. Diminutive plural of 
 cerro. 
 
 Cerro Gordo (Ser-ro Gor'-do). A thick ridg-e. 
 
 Chaves (Cha'-ves). A family nam©. 
 
 Chico(Che'-co). Little. 
 
 Chino (Che'-nd). Chinaman, 
 
 Cholla (Cho'-ya). A variety of cactus. 
 
 Cimarron (Sim-ar-ron'j. Wild; unruly; a mountain sheep. 
 
 Cochiti [Indian] (Co-chi-te''). Name of a pueblo. 
 
 Colorado (C6-l6-ra'-d6). Red; ruddy. 
 
 Contra Costa (Con'-tra-Cos'-ta). Coast opposite another. 
 
 Coronado (Co-r5-na'-d6). Family name; crowned. 
 
 Corral (Cor-rar). Pen; out-of-door inclosure. 
 
 Cosnino (Cos-ne'-no). 
 
 Cubero (Cii-ba'-rd). Cooper. 
 
 Cucamonga (Cii-ca-mon'-ga). 
 
 Culebra (Cii-la'-bra). Snake. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 265 
 
 De Luz (De Liis'). Of light. 
 
 Del Mar (Del Mar'). Of, or by, the sea. 
 
 Del Norte (X6r'-te). Of the north. 
 
 Dolores (Do-lo'-res). Pains; a woman's name. 
 
 El Capitan (El Ca-pi-tan'), The captain. 
 
 El Dorado (El D5-ra'-d6). The golden; the gilded. 
 
 El Molino (Mo-le'-n5). The mill. 
 
 El Monte (Mon'-te). The forest; the mountain. 
 
 Elota (A-lo'-ta). 
 
 El Paso (Pa'-so). The pass. 
 
 El Rito (Re'-to). The ceremony. 
 
 El Toro (T5'-ro). The bull. 
 
 Encinitas (En-si-ne'-tas). Little oaks. 
 
 Fresno (Fres'-no). Ash tree. 
 
 Gallinas (Ga-ye'nas). Hens; turkeys. 
 
 Gaviota (Gav-yo'-ta). Sea-gull. 
 
 Gila (He'-la). Name of a river. 
 
 Glorieta (Glo-ri-a'-ta) . Summer-house ; bower. 
 
 Goleta (Go-la'-ta). Schooner. 
 
 Hualpai [Indian] (H'wal'-pi). Name of a tribe. 
 
 Indio (Ind'-yo). Indian. 
 
 Isleta (Is-la'-ta). Little island. Diminutive of isla, 
 
 Jacal (Ha-cal'). An Indian hut. 
 
 Jemez (Ha'-mes). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
 Junipero Serra (Hii-ne'-pe-ro Ser'-ra) . Founder of the California 
 missions. 
 
 La Canada (La Can-ya'-da). The glen. 
 
 La Costa (Cos'-ta). The coast. 
 
 Ladrillo (La-dre'-yo). Brick. 
 
 Laguna (La-gii'-na). Lake. 
 
 La Jolla (La Ho'-ya). An eroded cliff near San Diego. 
 
 La Joya (La Ho'-ya). The jewel. 
 
 La Junta (La Hiin'-ta). The junction. 
 
 Las Animas (La-sa'-ni-mas). (Pronounced like one word.) The 
 souls. 
 
 Las Cruces (Las Crii'-ses). The crosses. 
 
 Las Flores (Las Flo'-res). The flowers. 
 
 Las Vegas (Las Va'-gas). The meadows. 
 
 Lerdo (Ler'-do). Slow. 
 
 Linda (Lin'-da). Pretty. 
 
 Loma (L5'-ma). Slope; rising ground. 
 
266 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 Los Angeles (pronounced like one word, Lo-san'-he-les, but com- 
 monly Lo-san'-ghe-les. The name of this city has locally two or 
 three pronunciations, all corrupt). The angels. (Contracted from 
 Pueblo de la Rema de los Angeles — Town of the Queen of the 
 Angels.) 
 
 Los Baiios (Ban'-yos). The baths. 
 
 Los Gatos (Ga'-tos). The cats. 
 
 Los Nietos (Ne-a'-tos). The grandchildren. 
 
 Luna (Lii'-na). Moon. 
 
 Machado (Ma-cha'-do). Hatchet. 
 
 Madera (Ma-da'-ra). Wood. 
 
 Madron (Ma-dron'), Madrono (Ma-dro'-no). A kind of tree, 
 
 Malpais (properly Mai-pis', but corrupted to Mai'- pi). Bad coun- 
 try. Applied to small bowlders of volcanic rock, which are thickly 
 scattered over some parts of the West. 
 
 Manitou [Indian] (Man'-i-tii). Great Spirit. 
 
 Manuelito (Man-wel-e'-to). Little Emanuel. Diminutive of 
 Manuel. 
 
 Manzanita (Man-sa-ne'-ta). Little apple; a California shrub. 
 
 Marcos de Niza (Mar'-cos de Ne'-sa). Mark of Nice; a vSpanish 
 monk and explorer. 
 
 Mariposa (]Ma-ri-p6'-sa). Butterfly. 
 
 Mendocino (Men-do-se'-no). A little liar, 
 
 Merced (Mer-sed'). Mercy, 
 
 Mesa (Ma'-sa). Aflat-topped hill; diminutive w^.y///rt. 
 
 Mesa Encantada (En-can-ta'-da). Haunted hill, 
 
 Mesquit (Mes-kef). A shrub of the acacia family. 
 
 Modesto (M6-des'-t5), Modest. 
 
 Mogollon (Mo-go-yon'), Parasite, 
 
 Mojave (Mo-ha'-veJ, Name of an Indian tribe, 
 
 Montecito (M6n-te-se'-toj, Little mountain, or forest. 
 
 Monterey (Mon-te-ra'). Forest King. 
 
 Moqui (Mo'-ki). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
 Morena (Mo-ra'-na). Brown. 
 
 Nambe (Nam-ba'). Name of an Indian pueblo. 
 
 Navajo (Na'-va-ho). An Indian tribe. (The Spanish word, 
 accented on the second syllable, signifies a level piece of ground.) 
 
 Navidad (Na-vi-dad'). Nativity. 
 
 Olla (O'-ya). A round earthen pot. 
 
 Oro Grande (0-r5 Gran '-de). Much gold. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 267 
 
 Pajaro (Pa'-ha-ro). Bird. 
 
 Pala(Pa'-la). Wooden shovel. 
 
 Palo Alto (Pa'-lo Al'-to). Tall timber. 
 
 Pasadena (Pa-sa-da'-na). Of imputed Indian origin, signifying 
 Crown of the Valley; or possibly a corruption of the Spanish Paso de 
 Edeii (Pa'-s6-da-den'), Gateway of Eden. 
 
 Patio (Pat' -y 6). Court. 
 
 Pecos (Pa'-cos). Freckles (supposed to be a corruption of pec as). 
 
 Penitentes, Los Hermanos (Los Er-man'-os Pen-i-ten-tes). The 
 Penitent Brotherhood. 
 
 Pescadero (Pes-ca-da'-ro). Fishmonger. 
 
 Picacho (Pi-ca''-ch6). Summit. 
 
 Piedra Pintada (Pe-a'-dra Pm-ta'-da). Painted rock. 
 
 Pima (Pe'-ma). Name of an Indian tribe. 
 
 Pinon (Pin-yon') A species of nut-bearing pine. 
 
 Pinos (Pe'-nSs). Pines. 
 
 Placer (Pla-ser'). Sand or gravel deposit in which free gold is 
 found. 
 
 Plaza (Pla'-sa). Public square. 
 
 Poso (Po'-so). Rest. 
 
 Presidio (Pre-sid'-yo). Garrison. 
 
 Pueblo (P'webMo). Village; populace. Applied to the sedentary 
 tribes of New Mexico and Arizona, and also to their habitations. 
 
 Puerco (P'wer'-c6). Pig; dirty; foul. 
 
 Purisima (Pii-ris'-i-ma). Purest; applied to the Virgin. 
 
 Queres [Indian] (Ca'-res). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
 Raton (Ra-ton'). Mouse. 
 
 Rayado (Ra-ya'-do). Streaked; variegated. 
 
 Redondo (Re-don'-do). Round. 
 
 Rincon (Rin-con'), An inside corner. 
 
 Rio, Rio Vista, Rio Grande, etc. (Re'-6, Ve'-sta, Gran'-de). River, 
 river view, big river. 
 
 Rosario (Ro-sa'-re-o). Rosary. 
 
 Rubio (Rub'-yo). Red. 
 
 Saguache [Indian] (Sa-wash'). Name of a mountain range. 
 
 Salida (Sa-le'-da). Departure. 
 
 Salinas (Sa-le'-nas). Saltmines. 
 
 San Andreas (San An-dras'). St. Andrew. 
 
 San Bernardino (Ber-nar-de'-no). St. Bernard. 
 
 San Carlos (Car'-los). St. Charles. 
 
268 NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 
 
 San Diego (De-a'-go). St. James; diminutive Dieguito. 
 
 San Dimas (Di-mas'). St. Demas. 
 
 San Francisco. St. Francis. 
 
 San Gabriel (Ga-bre-el'). St. Gabriel. 
 
 Sangre de Cristo (San'-gre de Cris'-to). Blood of Christ. 
 
 San Jacinto (Ha-sen '-to). St. Jacinth. 
 
 San Joaquin (H'wa-ken'). St. Joachim. 
 
 San Jose (Ho-sa''). St. Joseph. - 
 
 San Juan (H'wan — Not like a in swan). St. John. 
 
 San Juan Bautista (Ba-U-tes'-ta'). St. John Baptist. 
 
 San Juan Capistrano (Ca-pis-tra'-no). Name of a sainted Italian 
 monk. 
 
 San Luis Obispo (San Lii'-is O-bis'-po). St. Louis bishop. 
 
 San Luis Rey (Ra). St. Louis king. 
 
 San Mateo (Ma-ta'-6). St. Matthew. 
 
 San Miguel (Mi-ghel'). St. Michael. 
 
 San Pascual (Pas-k'war). Holy Easter. 
 
 San Pedro (Pa'-dro). St. Peter. 
 
 San Tomas (To-mas'). St. Thomas, 
 
 Santa Ana (pronounced like one word, San-tan'-a). St. Ann. 
 
 Santa Anita (pronounced like one word, San-tan-e'-ta). Diminu- 
 tive of Santa Ana. 
 
 Santa Catalina (San'-ta Ca-ta-le'-na). St. Catherine. 
 
 Santa Cruz (Criis). Holy Cross. 
 
 Santa Fe (Fa). Holy Faith. 
 
 Santa Monica (Mon'-i-ca). St. Monica. 
 
 Santa Paula (San-ta Pa'-ii-la). St. Paulina. 
 
 Santa Ynez (pronounced like one word, San-ti-nes'). St. Inez. 
 
 Santiago (San-ti-a'-go). St. James; war-cry of the Spaniards. 
 
 Sierra (Se-er'-ra). Saw-tooth; range of mountains. 
 
 Sierra Madre (Ma'-dre). Mother (parent); range. 
 
 Sierra Nevada (Ne-va'-da). Snowy range. 
 
 Soledad (So-le-dad'). Solitude. 
 
 Supai [Indian] (Sii'-pi). Name of a tribe. 
 
 Tahoe [Indian] (Ta'-o). Name of a lake on the Nevada-California 
 boundary. 
 
 Tamal (Ta-mal'). An Indian tribe; a Mexican edible compound. 
 Plural, tamales. 
 
 Tamalpais (Ta-mal'-pis, bui the final s is not comm.only sounded). 
 Tamal country; a mountain near San Francisco. 
 
NEW GUIDE TO THE PACIFIC COAST. 269 
 
 Tehachapi [Indian] (Te-ha'-cha-pi). Name of a mountain and 
 pass. 
 
 Tehua [Indian] (Ta'-wa). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
 Temecula (Te-mec'-ii-la). Name of a mountain pass. 
 
 Tesuque (Te-sii'-ke). Name of an Indian pueblo. 
 
 Tia Juana (pronounced like one word, Te-h'wa'-na). Aunt Jane. 
 
 Tigua [Indian] (Te'-wa). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
 Tinaja (Ti-na'-ha). A large earthen jar. 
 
 Trinidad (Tri-ni-dad', but commonly accented on the first syllable). 
 The Trinity. 
 
 Tropico (Tro'-pi-co). Tropical. 
 
 Tulare (Tii-la'-re). A place of rushes. 
 
 Ute [Indian] (Ut). Name of a tribe. 
 
 Verde (Ver'-de). Green. 
 
 ViscainOr Sebastian (Se-bas'-ti-an Vis-ca'-i-n5), Biscayan; a 
 Spanish navigator. 
 
 Yorba (Y6r-ba). A family name. 
 
 Ynez (E-nes'). Inez. 
 
 Yosemite [Indian] (Yo-sem'-i-te). Big grizzly bear. 
 
 Zia (Se'-a). Name of an Indian pueblo. 
 
 Zuni (Siin^yi). Name of a Pueblo tribe. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Abbyville 33 
 
 Acoma Pueblo 102 
 
 Acton 238 
 
 Agua Fria Valley 140 
 
 Alameda, N. M 98 
 
 Alameda, Cal 248, 250 
 
 Alameda County, Cal. . 248 
 
 Albuquerque . . . 98 
 
 Alden . 33 
 
 Alessandro 224 
 
 Algodones 98 
 
 Alila 240 
 
 Allantown 114 
 
 Allison 232 
 
 Almond Culture igo 
 
 Alvord 226 
 
 Amboy 198 
 
 Anacapa Island 237 
 
 Anaheim 217 
 
 Ancona 13 
 
 Angell 119 
 
 Antioch _ 247, 248 
 
 Apache Canon 91 
 
 Aplin 213 
 
 Appleton 13 
 
 Apricot Culture 192 
 
 Arcadia 205 
 
 Arch Beach 217 
 
 Arena, Cal 214 
 
 Arena, Cal 246 
 
 Argentine 24 
 
 Argyle 14 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Arizona. 
 
 Historical 108 
 
 Descriptive no 
 
 Industrial 113, 134 
 
 Arizona Climate 136, 145 
 
 Arkansas River 32 
 
 Arlington 226 
 
 Arrowhead 213 
 
 Arrowhead Springs 203 ,213 
 
 Ash Fork 134 
 
 Ash Hill 198 
 
 Asylum 213 
 
 Atherton 15 
 
 Athlone 246 
 
 Atlantic & Pacific Junction.. 100 
 
 Atwater 246 
 
 Aubrey 156 
 
 Avalon 214 
 
 Avon 247 
 
 Ayer 62 
 
 Aztec 114 
 
 Azul 83 
 
 Azusa 205 
 
 Bagdad 198 
 
 Bakersfield 239 
 
 Ballona Junction 213,216 
 
 Bandini 217 
 
 Banta 247 
 
 Barclay 28 
 
 Baring 14 
 
 Barstow 201 
 
 Barstow to San Bernardino.. 202 
 
 (271) 
 
272 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Base Line 213 
 
 Beal 196 
 
 Bealville. 238 
 
 Belief ont - 34 
 
 Bellemont I34 
 
 Bell's Canon 138 
 
 Belpre 33 
 
 Bennett 29 
 
 Benton - . . 62 
 
 Bent's Fort 39. 48 
 
 Berkeley 250, 260 
 
 Bernal. 84 
 
 Bernalillo 98 
 
 Berenda 244 
 
 Berry 156 
 
 Bethany 247 
 
 Big Trees. 244, 260 
 
 Billings 114 
 
 Bissell 201 
 
 Blake 198 
 
 Blanchard 84 
 
 Blodgett 12 
 
 Blossburg 79 
 
 Bluewater 105 
 
 Borden 242 
 
 Bosworth 15 
 
 Bottomless Pits 132 
 
 Box Canon 139 
 
 Box Springs 224 
 
 Braddock 29 
 
 Brentwood _ 247 
 
 Bristol 198 
 
 Bucklin 15 
 
 Buena. 222 
 
 Buena Vista 59 
 
 Buffalo Trails 33 
 
 Burbank 238 
 
 Burlingame 28 
 
 Burrton 30 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Byrneville _. 12 
 
 Byron, Cal 247 
 
 Byron, Col 47 
 
 Cacti. III 
 
 Caddoa 47 
 
 Cadiz 198 
 
 Cajon -. .- 203 
 
 Cajon Pass 202 
 
 Caliente 238 
 
 Calif a 246 
 
 California. 
 
 Historical 158 
 
 Descriptive 169 
 
 Climate 171, 231, 235 
 
 Industrial 1 80 
 
 Cama 14 
 
 Camden 15 
 
 Cameron, Cal. 238 
 
 Cameron, 111, 13 
 
 Camulos 234 
 
 Canoncito 92 
 
 Canon de Chelly 107, 116 
 
 Canon Diablo 118 
 
 Capistrano 217 
 
 Carbondale 28 
 
 Carlsbad 223 
 
 Carlton 47 
 
 Carmelo Mission 258 
 
 Carpinteria 235 
 
 Carrizo 114 
 
 Carrollton 15 
 
 Casa Blanca 226 
 
 Cascade Canon 57 
 
 Castle Creek Hot Springs 140 
 
 Caton 13 
 
 Cave of the Winds... 56 
 
 Cedar Grove 29 
 
 Cedar Junction 24 
 
 Centinela .- 213 
 
INDEX. 
 
 273 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Central Avenue 213 
 
 Ceres _. 246 
 
 Chalcedony Park 114 
 
 Challender 134 
 
 Channel Islands 237 
 
 Chapman 206 
 
 Charleston 36 
 
 Chaves 105 
 
 Cheyenne Canon 51 
 
 Chicago .- 10 
 
 Chicago to Kansas City 9 
 
 Chillicothe 13 
 
 Chinatown, San Francisco 251 
 
 Chino 156 
 
 Chino Valley 135 
 
 Choteau 24 
 
 Chula Vista. 233 
 
 Cimarron, Kan 36 
 
 Cimarron, N. M 82 
 
 Cinder Pit 134 
 
 Claremont 205 
 
 Clarendon 33 
 
 Clements _ 29 
 
 Cliff and Cave Dwellings 130 
 
 Coal City 13 
 
 College Peaks _ _ 59 
 
 Collis 247 
 
 Colmor 83 
 
 Colorado. 
 
 Historical _ 38 
 
 Descriptive 39 
 
 Climate 42 
 
 Industrial 46 
 
 Colorado Resorts 50 
 
 Colorado River 157 
 
 Colorado Springs 50 
 
 Colton 224 
 
 Continental Divide, Colo 60 
 
 Continental Divide, N. M..71, 106 
 18 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Contra Costa County, Cal 247 
 
 Coolidge, Kan 38 
 
 Coolidge, N. M 106 
 
 Coronado Beach 230 
 
 Cosnino 119 
 
 Cottonwood 202 
 
 Cottonwood Valley 28 
 
 Courtney 15 
 
 Cowles 232 
 
 Cripple Creek 58 
 
 Crookton 155 
 
 Cross Creek 242 
 
 Crozier 156 
 
 Cubero .. . 102 
 
 Cucamonga 204 
 
 Daggett. 198 
 
 Dahinda. 13 
 
 Dallas 14 
 
 Dana's Point 219 
 
 Danby 198 
 
 Dartmouth 33 
 
 Davenport 134 
 
 Dean Lake 15 
 
 Death Valley 198 
 
 Decorra 14 
 
 Deerfield 38 
 
 Defiance 107 
 
 Delano 240 
 
 Delhi 62 
 
 Del Mar 223 
 
 Del Rosa. 213 
 
 De Luz. 223 
 
 Dennison. 118 
 
 Denver 61 
 
 Desert Plants. . 11 1 
 
 De Soto 24 
 
 Dillon 81 
 
 Dillwyn 33 
 
 Dodge City , 34 
 
^u 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Dolores Mission 249,251 
 
 Dorsey 81 
 
 Dover 82 
 
 Doyle 29 
 
 Drake... 157 
 
 Drew 213 
 
 Drummond 12 
 
 Duarte _ 205 
 
 Dumas. 14 
 
 Dundee 33 
 
 Earl 62 
 
 Eastberne 213 
 
 East Highlands 213 
 
 East Riverside 224 
 
 East Riverside to San Jacinto 224 
 
 East Riverside to Temecula. 224 
 
 Edelstein 13 
 
 Edson.. 198 
 
 El Cajon Valley 232 
 
 Ellinor 29 
 
 EUinwood 33 
 
 Elmdale 29 
 
 Elmer 15 
 
 Elota 98 
 
 El Rito 100 
 
 Elsinore _. 224 
 
 El Toro 217 
 
 Emporia 28 
 
 Emporia Junction 28 
 
 Encinitas 223 
 
 Escondido 222 
 
 Escondido Junction 222, 223 
 
 Ethel 15 
 
 Etiwanda 204 
 
 Eudora 24 
 
 Evans _ 29 
 
 Experimental Agricultural 
 
 Station , Kansas 36 
 
 Fair Oaks 207 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Fairview 134 
 
 Fenner ig8 
 
 Fernando _ 238 
 
 Fig Culture 191 
 
 Fisher's Peak.. ._ 63 
 
 Flagstaff 119 
 
 Florence 29 
 
 Floyd 15 
 
 Flying Fish. 216 
 
 Fort Defiance 107 
 
 Fort Leavenworth 19 
 
 Fort Madison 14 
 
 Fort Union 83 
 
 Fort Wingate 106 
 
 Fossils 22 
 
 Foster's... 233 
 
 Fowler 242 
 
 Franconia 157 
 
 Fresno 242 
 
 Fresno County, Cal 242 
 
 Fresno to Tracy, via Berenda 
 
 and Lathrop 242 
 
 Fresno to Tracy, via Collis.. 247 
 
 Fruit Valley 33 
 
 Fullerton 217 
 
 Fulton 84 
 
 Galesburg 13 
 
 Galisteo 96 
 
 Gallup 107 
 
 Garden City 36 
 
 Garden of the Gods 55 
 
 Garfield 33 
 
 Garvanza 209 
 
 Gary 12 
 
 Gibbs 14 
 
 Gila Monster 112 
 
 Gladysta 213 
 
 Glenburn 240 
 
 Glendale 27 
 
iNDfeJt. 
 
 ^^5 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Glendora 205 
 
 Glen Eyrie -- 56 
 
 Glenwood Springs 60 
 
 Glorieta... 91 
 
 Glorieta Pass 69, 91 
 
 Golden Gate 249 
 
 Gorin 14 
 
 Goshen Junction 240 
 
 Granada 47 
 
 Grand Canon of the Colorado 120 
 
 Grand Caverns 56 
 
 Granite 135 
 
 Granite Canon 59 
 
 Grant's . . . _ 105 
 
 Grape Culture 185 
 
 Great Bend 33 
 
 Green Mountain Falls 57 
 
 Grover 27 
 
 Gypsum _. 226 
 
 Hackberry.. 156 
 
 Hagerman Pass 59 
 
 Halstead 30 
 
 Hamburg 33 
 
 Hancock 157 
 
 Hanford 240 
 
 Hardin. 15 
 
 Hardy. _ 115 
 
 Harold.. 238 
 
 Harper 201 
 
 Hart 15 
 
 Hartland 38 
 
 Haslett.. 198 
 
 Hebron 81 
 
 Hemdon 242 
 
 Hesperia 202 
 
 Hetch-Hetchy Valley 246 
 
 Highland 213 
 
 Highland Junction 203 
 
 Highland Park 209 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Hillside 79 
 
 Hilton 47 
 
 Hinckley 201 
 
 Hoehne's 62 
 
 Holbrook 114 
 
 HoUeys... 47 
 
 HoUiday 24 
 
 Homer. - 198 
 
 Homers , 29 
 
 Hot Springs Junction 140 
 
 Howell 36 
 
 Hualapai.. 156 
 
 Hurdland 14 
 
 Hutchinson 31 
 
 Hyde Park... 213 
 
 Ibex 198 
 
 Illinois 10 
 
 Ingalls 36 
 
 Inglewood 213 
 
 Iowa 14 
 
 Iron Springs 62 
 
 Irrigation 75, 77, 141 
 
 Irrigosa 242 
 
 Irvine 217 
 
 Irvington. 203 
 
 Isleta Pueblo. 99 
 
 Java 198 
 
 Jewfish 215 
 
 Joliet... 12 
 
 Kansas. 
 
 Historical 18 
 
 Descriptive 20 
 
 Climate 23 
 
 Industrial 24 
 
 Kansas City 15 
 
 Kaster.. 157 
 
 Keenbrook 203 
 
 Keene 238 
 
 Kendall. 38 
 
276 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Kent. 31 
 
 Kenwood . . 14 
 
 Kernan 13 
 
 Kern County, Cal... 239 
 
 Kimberlena 240 
 
 Kingman 156 
 
 Kingsburg 242 
 
 Kinsley 33 
 
 Kinsman 13 
 
 Kirkland Valley 138 
 
 Kite- shaped Track 211 
 
 Klinefelter 198 
 
 Knappa 12 
 
 Knox 13 
 
 Koen -- 47 
 
 Kramer 201 
 
 Kroenig's.. _-. 83 
 
 La Costa 223 
 
 Ladrillo 223 
 
 Laguna, Cal 217 
 
 Laguna Pueblo, N. M loi 
 
 LaJollaPark- 231 
 
 La Junta 47, 62 
 
 Lakeside... 232 
 
 Lake View 26 
 
 Lakin 38 
 
 Lamanda Park .. 206 
 
 Lamar 47 
 
 Lamy 92 
 
 Lancaster 238 
 
 Lang, Cal 238 
 
 Lang, Kan 28 
 
 Lantry ..- 38 
 
 La Plata 15 
 
 Larned 33 
 
 La Rose 13 
 
 Las Animas 47 
 
 Las Flores 222 
 
 Las Vegas 83 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lathrop 247 
 
 Laura. 13 
 
 Lava Beds 71, 105, 132 
 
 Lavic 198 
 
 Lawrence 25 
 
 Leadville 59 
 
 Lecompton 26 
 
 Leeds .. 13 
 
 Lemon Culture 184 
 
 Lemont 12 
 
 Lerdo 240 
 
 Leucadia 223 
 
 Levy 83 
 
 Lewis . 33 
 
 Lexington Junction.. . . 15 
 
 Lick Observatory 256 
 
 Lincoln Park 209 
 
 Linda Rosa 224 
 
 Linda Vista 223 
 
 Lingard 246 
 
 Livingston 246 
 
 Lockport 12 
 
 LomaAlta 222 
 
 Lomax 14 
 
 Lordsburg 205 
 
 Lorenzo 13 
 
 Los Angeles 209 
 
 Los Angeles Junction 222, 223 
 
 Los Angeles to San Diego. -- 216 
 Los Angeles to San Fran- 
 cisco 237 
 
 Los Angeles to Santa Bar- 
 bara 234 
 
 Los Angeles to Santa Monica, 
 Redondo, and Santa Cata- 
 
 lina - 213 
 
 Los Banos 247 
 
 Los Cerrillos 97 
 
 LosNietos 217 
 
INDEX. 
 
 277 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Lucky Baldwin Ranch 205, 206 
 
 Ludlow 198 
 
 Luna 100 
 
 Lynn 79 
 
 Machado 213 
 
 Macksville 33 
 
 Macuta.. 14 
 
 Madera ._ 244 
 
 Magnolia Avenue .- 225 
 
 Malaga 242 
 
 Manitou 52 
 
 Manitou Park 57 
 
 Mansfield 36 
 
 Manuelito _ 107 
 
 Marceline 15 
 
 Mariposa Grove . .'.. 244 
 
 Martinez 247, 248 
 
 Marysville 261 
 
 Matilija Springs 235 
 
 Maxwell City 81 
 
 Maxwell Grant.. 79 
 
 Mayline 38 
 
 Mazon 13 
 
 McCarty's 105 
 
 McCook 12 
 
 McLellan 134 
 
 Media 14 
 
 Medill-. 14 
 
 Medway 38 
 
 Mellen 196 
 
 Mendon 15 
 
 Mendota 247 
 
 Menlo Park 250 
 
 Mennonites 30 
 
 Mentone 213 
 
 Merced 246 
 
 Merced County, Cal.. 246 
 
 Mesa City 145 
 
 Mesa Encantada 103 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Mesmer _ 213 
 
 Millsdale 12 
 
 Minturn 246 
 
 Mirage .. 238 
 
 Llission 30 
 
 Missions, California. 162 
 
 Missions, New Mexico. 66 
 
 Mississippi River Bridge 14 
 
 Missouri 14 
 
 Missouri River Bridge 15 
 
 ]\Iistletoe _ 119 
 
 ^Mitchell 105 
 
 Modesto 247 
 
 Modjeska. 217 
 
 Mojave 201,238 
 
 Mojave Caiion 157 
 
 Mojave Desert.. 196 
 
 Mojave Indians 157, 196 
 
 Molino 213 
 
 Monica. 13 
 
 Monrovia ._ 205 
 
 ]\[ontecito 235 , 236 
 
 Monterey 257 
 
 Moqui Snake Dance 116 
 
 ]\Iorena 223 
 
 INIorgan 209 
 
 Morley 63 
 
 INIorris.. 24 
 
 Morse 47 
 
 Murrieta 224 
 
 Muscatel . 242 
 
 Nadeau Park 213 
 
 Nambe Pueblo 96 
 
 Napa 261 
 
 National City 223, 233 
 
 Navajo Reservation 116 
 
 Navajo Springs 114 
 
 Needles 157,196 
 
 Nelson 156 
 
278 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Nemo. 13 
 
 Neosho Valley - 28 
 
 Nettleton 33 
 
 Newberry 198 
 
 New Boston 14 
 
 Newcomb 15 
 
 Newhall 234, 238 
 
 Newman 247 
 
 New Mexico. 
 
 Historical 64 
 
 Descriptive 67 
 
 Climate 71 
 
 Industrial 75. 81 
 
 Newton 29 
 
 Nickerson 33 
 
 Nimrod 15 
 
 Niota - 14 
 
 Nolan 83 
 
 Norborne -- 15 
 
 Nordhoff 235 
 
 Northam 217 
 
 North Cucamonga 204 
 
 North Ontario 204 
 
 North Pomona 205 
 
 Oak Creek Canon 132 
 
 Oakland 248, 250 
 
 Ocean Beach 231 
 
 Oceanside 222 
 
 Oceanside to Escondido 222 
 
 Oceanside to De Luz 223 
 
 Offerle 34 
 
 Ojai Valley.. 235 
 
 Old Camp Date Creek 138 
 
 Oldtown - 223 
 
 Olive 226 
 
 Olive Culture 186 
 
 Oliver _ 15 
 
 Olivewood 207 
 
 Onava _ 83 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ontario 204 
 
 Orange 217, 226 
 
 Orange Culture 182 
 
 Ormonde 14 
 
 Oro Grande _ 202 
 
 Ortiz 96 
 
 Osage City 28 
 
 Ostrich Farming 192 
 
 OtayCity 233 
 
 Otero 81 
 
 Pachappa. 226 
 
 Pacific Beach 231 
 
 Pacoima 238 
 
 Painted Desert 133 
 
 Palemon.. 15 
 
 Palmdale 238 
 
 Palo Alto 255 
 
 Pampa 238 
 
 Partridge 33 
 
 Pasadena 207 
 
 Pasadena Mountain Railway. 207 
 
 Patterson — 12 
 
 Pauline 28 
 
 Pawnee Rock 33 
 
 Paxton - 30 
 
 Peabody 29 
 
 Peach Springs 156 
 
 Pecos 91 
 
 Pecos River and National 
 
 Park 90 
 
 Pecos Ruin (Mission and Pu- 
 eblo) 87 
 
 Penitentes 85, 86 
 
 Perris 224 
 
 Peterton 28 
 
 Phoenix 143 
 
 Pierceville 36 
 
 Pike's Peak.. 53.62 
 
 Pineveta 155 
 
INDEX. 
 
 379 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Pixley 240 
 
 Plevna 33 
 
 Plymouth 29 
 
 Point Loma 231 
 
 Point of Rocks, Ariz 135 
 
 Point of Rocks, Cal 202 
 
 Point of Rocks, Lower Cal... 233 
 
 Pomona _ 205 
 
 Ponemah _ 14 
 
 Pontoosuc 14 
 
 Port Costa 247, 248 
 
 Poso 240 
 
 Powell 157 
 
 Prairie Dog Towns 22 
 
 Prehistoric Ruins 147 
 
 Prescott 136 
 
 Prescott, Phoenix, and the 
 
 Salt River Valley Region.. 134 
 
 Princeville 13 
 
 Prowers 47 
 
 Prune Culture 186 
 
 Pueblo 50 
 
 Pueblo Indians, 65, 71, 87, 96, 
 
 99, loi. 102, 106, 116. 
 
 Putnam 115 
 
 Querino Canon 114 
 
 Ransom 13 
 
 Raton 79 
 
 Raton Pass.. 63 
 
 Raton Tunnel 64 
 
 Ravenna 238 
 
 Rayado 83 
 
 Raymond, Cal. 209 
 
 Raymond, Cal. 246 
 
 Raymond, Kan. 33 
 
 Reading, 111.. 13 
 
 Reading, Kan 28 
 
 Redlands 213 
 
 Red Mesa 156 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Redondo Beach 214 
 
 Red Rock Canon 60 
 
 Revere 14 
 
 Rhodes 134 
 
 Rialto 204 
 
 Rincon, Cal 226 
 
 Rio de Chelly 107 
 
 Rio Grande del Norte 70 
 
 Rio Puerco 100 
 
 Riordan 134 
 
 Ripon 247 
 
 Rivera 217 
 
 Riverside 224 
 
 Riverview 233 
 
 Robinson 47 
 
 Rochester 204 
 
 Rogers 201 
 
 Romeo 13 
 
 Romero 84 
 
 Rosamond 238 
 
 Rosario 97 
 
 Rothville 15 
 
 Rowe 87 
 
 Rutledge 14 
 
 Sacramento 261 
 
 Saff ordville 29 
 
 Salida 247 
 
 Salt River Valley 140 
 
 Salt Wells 31 
 
 San Antonio Cailon 205 
 
 San Bernardino 203 
 
 San Bernardino to Los An- 
 geles - 204 
 
 San Bernardino to San Diego, 
 
 via Short Line 224 
 
 San Buenaventura Mission.. 234 
 
 Sanders 114 
 
 San Diego 223, 227 
 
 San Diego Mission 228 
 
280 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 SanDimas... -.. 205 
 
 San Domingo Pueblo 97 
 
 Sands -- --- 84 
 
 San Francisco 249 
 
 San Francisco Peaks 127 
 
 San Gabriel Cafion . _ 205 
 
 San Gabriel Mission 207 
 
 San Jacinto 224 
 
 San Joaquin Valley 238 
 
 San Jose, Gal. 256 
 
 Sanjose, N. M 100 
 
 San Juan 219 
 
 San Juan Capistrano Mission 217 
 
 San Luis Obispo 260 
 
 San Marcos 222 
 
 San Mateo Mountains 105 
 
 San Miguel 84 
 
 San Miguel Island _ 237 
 
 San Onofre 222 
 
 San Rafael .. ._ 250 
 
 Santa Ana... 217 
 
 Santa Anita 206 
 
 Santa Barbara -.. 235 
 
 Santa Barbara Mission 236 
 
 Santa Catalina Island 214 
 
 Santa Clara Valley, Northern 
 
 California 254 
 
 Santa Clara Valley, Southern 
 
 California 234 
 
 Santa Cruz... 258 
 
 Santa Cruz Island 237 
 
 Santa Fe 92 
 
 Santa Fe Springs 217 
 
 Santa Fe Trail 19, 63 
 
 Santa Margarita Ranch 223 
 
 Santa Monica 214 
 
 Santa Paula 234 
 
 Santa Rosa 261 
 
 Santa Rosa Island 237 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Santiago Canon _ 217 
 
 Saticoy 234 
 
 Saugus 234, 238 
 
 Scranton 28 
 
 Seligman 155 
 
 Selma 242 
 
 Selwyn 223 
 
 Sepulveda 238 
 
 Seven Castles 60 
 
 Seven Falls . 52 
 
 Sheffield 15 
 
 Sherlock 38 
 
 Sherman 33 
 
 Shoemaker 83 
 
 Siberia 198 
 
 Sibley 15 
 
 Simpson's Rest 63 
 
 Skull Valley 137 
 
 Slauson 213 
 
 Smithshire 14 
 
 Sorrento ^ 223 
 
 South Pasadena 207 
 
 South Riverside 226 
 
 South Santa Monica 213 
 
 Spanish Peaks 62 
 
 Speareville . .- 34 
 
 Spencer 27 
 
 Springer 82 
 
 Stafford 33 
 
 Standard Time . . 34 
 
 Stanislaus County, Cal. 247 
 
 Starkville 63 
 
 Starvation Peak 84 
 
 Sterling 33 
 
 Sterry . 29 
 
 St. John 33 
 
 St. Joseph, Ariz. 115 
 
 Stockton 260 
 
 Streator 13 
 
INDEX. 
 
 281 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Strong City 29 
 
 Stronghurst 14 
 
 Sulzbacher 84 
 
 Summit, Cal. 202 
 
 Summit, N. M. 105 
 
 Supai -- 134 
 
 Surrey • .- 13 
 
 Sweetwater Dam.. 233 
 
 Sylvia 33 
 
 Syracuse 38 
 
 Tagus 240 
 
 Taos Pueblo 82 
 
 Tecumseh _ 27 
 
 Tedens 12 
 
 Tehachapi _ 238 
 
 Tehachapi Pass 238 
 
 Tejunga. 238 
 
 Temecula 224 
 
 Temecula Canon 224 
 
 Tempe 145 
 
 Tesuque Pueblo 96 
 
 Thatcher 62 
 
 Tia Juana. 233 
 
 Timpas 62 
 
 Tipton, Cal 240 
 
 Tipton, N. M. 83 
 
 Tokay 240 
 
 Toluca - 13 
 
 Topeka.. 27 
 
 Tracy 247 
 
 Tracy to San Francisco, via 
 
 Port Costa 247 
 
 Traver 242 
 
 Trinidad 62 
 
 Tropico 238 
 
 Truxton... 156 
 
 Tulare 240 
 
 Tulare County, Cal 240 
 
 Tunnel 238 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Turlock .- 246 
 
 Turner 24 
 
 Tyrone. 62 
 
 Ute Park.. 57 
 
 Ute Pass... 52, 56, 57 
 
 Vallejo Junction _ 247, 248 
 
 Ventura.. 234 
 
 Verona _ 13 
 
 Victor 202 
 
 Victoria 213 
 
 Vincent 238 
 
 Visalia 240 
 
 Vista . 222 
 
 Volcanic Cones and Lava 
 
 Beds .- 132 
 
 Wade 238 
 
 Wagon Mound 83 
 
 Wakarusa 28 
 
 Waldo. 97 
 
 Wallace 97 
 
 Walnut 119 
 
 Walnut Culture. 190 
 
 Walnut Grove 137 
 
 Walton 29 
 
 Waterman 201 
 
 Watrous 83 
 
 Wawona 246 
 
 Wayne . 15 
 
 Weaver 24 
 
 West Glendale 238 
 
 Whipple Barracks. .. 136 
 
 Wickenburg 139 
 
 Wilburn 13 
 
 Wilder 24 
 
 Wildesin 213 
 
 Wildomar 224 
 
 Williams 134 
 
 Williams Canon 56 
 
 Williamsfield 13 
 
282 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Willow Springs 12 
 
 Wingate 106 
 
 Winslow --- 115 
 
 Wiseburn__- .-- 214 
 
 Woodland Park 57 
 
 Wooten --- 63 
 
 Wright - 34 
 
 Wyaconda 14 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Yampai 156 
 
 Yorba _. 226 
 
 Yosemite Valley 244 
 
 Ysidora 223 
 
 Yucca 157 
 
 Yucca Brevifolia 202 
 
 Zenith... 33 
 
 Zuni Pueblo. 106 
 
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