DA Class MMg^ Book ^f? IS AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF CUMNER; With some Particulars of the Traditions respecting THE DEATH OF THE COUNTESS OF LEICESTER; Also AN EXTRACT FROM ASHMOLE's ANTIQUITIES OF BERKSHIRE, Relative to that Transaction and Illustrative of t$t Romance of Ifcemlfoortfj* To which is added AN APPENDIX, Containing THE ORIGINAL BALLAD OF CUMNER HALL, AND OTHER INTERESTING MATTER. BY / HUGH USHER^TIGHE, Esq. Of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. SECOND EDITIOIS$:< OXFORD, PRINTED AND SOLD BY MUNDAY AND SLATTER, HERALD OFFICE, high-street; sold also BY T. H. WHITELEY, 3, PATERNOSTER-ROW, LONDON. 1821. INTRODUCTION. THE deep interest so deservedly felt, and so openly evinced for every production which emanates from the highly -^gifted " Author of Waverly," reflects a corresponding interest on every subject connected with a Tale on which the finest feelings of the mind are unavoidably concentrated. These sentiments, so universally ex- cited by the perusal of this Author's former Tales, can assuredlv not have A 2 IV INTRODUCTION. been lessened by his last production of " Kenil worth," which, perhaps, from the circumstances of the case, from the melancholy story of a very young and lovely woman contend- ing with villany and treachery, and struggling with the most trying hard- ships and privations, appeals more closely to the human heart, and is more calculated to excite the warm emotions of pity, than any of his earlier works. It is on the preva- lence of these feelings, that I venture to hope, that some account of Cum- ner, where the scene of this fasci- INTRODUCTION. V nating story is principally laid, and the narration of the facts, as given by Ashmole in his Antiquities of Berkshire, may not be deemed ut- terly devoid of interest. Scenes, characters, and incidents, in themselves trivial, or which had perhaps obtained an ephemeral ex- istence, and then subsided into ob- scurity or oblivion, derive from the powerful talent of description, pos- sessed by this Author, a splendour which does not intrinsically belong to them, and a sort of classic sanctity, VI INTRODUCTION. which attracts us to them with feel- ings of the liveliest curiosity; of this, Cumner is a strong instance: an obscure village, mentioned only in old topographical works as the scene of the tragic end of the unfor- tunate wife of Leicester, and now, by the efforts of genius, rendered more remarkable, in the nineteenth century, as having been the scene of that catastrophe, than it was in the sixteenth, when that catastrophe actually occurred. My residence in Oxford has enabled me to visit this interesting spot, and I have myself INTRODUCTION. Vll experienced an enthusiasm, while standing amid the wreck of those scenes so accurately and beautifully described, which cannot fail of being felt, but which it is impossible for language adequately to define. I annex the facts of this melan- choly story, as related by Ashmole, and which is alluded to in the latter part of " Kenil worth/ - The same narration, in the same words, may be found in Anthony Wood's MSS. in the Ashmolean Collection; so that it is probable that Ashmole Vlll INTRODUCTION. borrowed his account from him. It is curious to observe the difference of the quaint and meagre style of the learned and indefatigable An- tiquary, when compared with the highly embellished language, and richly wrought imageries of the Nar- rator of the same events at the pre- sent time. In allusion to one circumstance, which makes a prominent figure in " Kenil worth," there is no reason to suppose that an inn, designated " the Black Bear/' flourished in INTRODUCTION. IX Cumner in the reign of Queen Eli- zabeth; but the spirit of romance has penetrated that retired spot; the pride of reputed ancestorial re- nown, and the solicitations of some romantic Members of this University have triumphed, and the sign of " the Black Bear " has been recently affixed to the public-house in the village, with the name of " Giles Gosling" inscribed beneath it. — I have taken every pains that a limited period allowed me, to obtain all the information I could procure for my work; and if my account, concise X INTRODUCTION. as it is, is enabled to interest or sa- tisfy any one's curiosity respecting the now-much-talked-of village of Cumner, I shall feel most deeply gratified. H. U. TIGHE. AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF CUMNER. ClJMNER, situated in Berkshire, in the Hundred of Hormer, and Deanery of Abingdon, is built on the brow of a hill, commanding a very extensive view over the counties of Oxford and Gloucester. The parish extends about five miles in length, four in breadth, and contains many little tributary hamlets, of three, four, or five houses each.* The number of houses in the village of Cumner and its dependent hamlets, amounts to about a hundred, and the inhabitants of the whole * Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica, vol. iv. 12 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT parish do not exceed five hundred and fifty. The Hundred of Hormer, or as it is written in old records,, Hornemere, was granted to the Abbey of Abingdon, (which afterwards became one of the wealthiest monastic institutions in the kingdom, *) by Edward the Confessor. Previous to this magnificent proof of royal favour and piety, Ceadwalla, king of the West Saxons, gave twenty hides to the Abbey, some parcels of which lay in Cumner. In the year 968, King Edgar bestowed on this foundation thirty tenements, with lands belonging to them. From these, and many other grants from our ancient * Its revenues in 1117 were valued at nearly two thou- sand pounds a year. OF CUMNER. 13 kings, every part of the Hundred of Hor- nier was found, at the Reformation, to be in the possession of the Abbey of Abing- don : and Leland tells us, that from Eynsham to Dorchester, the whole country belonged to that monastery. Of this extensive district, Cumner was honoured with signal marks of the favour and munificence of the members of this powerful body. The ruins of several stone crosses, which may still be seen in dif- ferent parts of the parish, remain monu- ments of its monastic possessors, and of their predilection for this salubrious spot. Here the superiors of the society had a cell, or place of retirement, called Cum- ner Place. Some authorities mention it as " a place of removal" for the monks, 14 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT in case of any epidemic or contagious disease infecting the town of Abingdon.* In the year 1538,, Thomas Rowland, the last Abbot of Abingdon, on the suppres- sion of monasteries, surrendered all the extensive possessions of this convent into the hands of King Henry VIII. and amongst them the lands of Cumner fell to the crown. In 1546 the king, by letters patent, granted to George Owen, Esq. and John Bridges, Doctor in Physic, cc the lordship, manor, and rectorial tythes cc of Cumner, with all its rights and ap- " purtenances ; and particularly the capi- " tal messuage called Cumner Place, and " the close adjoining, called Cumner " Park, and the three closes called Saf- * Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica. — Ashmole's Anti- quities of Berkshire, vol. i. OF CUMNER. 15 U fron Plottys." From this period it lias passed, by various grants, into the family of the Earl of Abingdon, to whom the parish now belongs. The ancient mansion-house of Cumner Place adjoined the west end of the church- yard. A heap of stones, and the foun- dations, now scarcely discernible, are all that remain of that venerable structure, where monks alternately prayed and feasted, and where beauty mourned the alienated affections of a faithless husband, and suffered a violent death ! This dread- ful catastrophe, revolting to humanity, is related fully by Ashmole, who has bor- rowed his account from the original one of Anthony Wood. This narration I have annexed, and though it combines all the 16 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT principal incidents of that melancholy tale,, I am enabled to illustrate it by some additional remarks from other authorities. Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, so dis- tinguished among the wise statesmen and handsome courtiers that thronged the court of " England's maiden Queen/' giving way for once to the softer sensi- bilities of his really noble disposition, united himself to Ann, the only daughter and heiress of Sir John Robsert, Knight, of Sisterne, in the county of Norfolk.* This union of affection was, for political rea- sons, kept secret, and the daughter of an obscure Knight, elevated to share the rank and honours of the first nobleman * Anthony Wood's MSS. — Dugdale's Baronage, vol. ii. p. 222. In Augustine Vincent's (the Windsor Herald) Catalogue of English Nobles, I find her styled Amie. OF CUMNER. 17 in England, had little cause to complain of a temporary concealment. But in a mind so warped as Leicester's, his ruling passion soon stifled every other emotion* and the finer feelings of his nature were made subservient to that towering ambi- tion to which he had already so exclu- sively devoted himself. Imagining that the partiality of the Queen, then in the zenith of power and beauty, might induce her to grant him a participation of her regal dignity, he determined that his inno- cent wife should not prove a bar to his aggrandizement. Intent on freeing him- self from these bonds, he persuaded his confiding and unsuspecting Countess to remove to the house of one Anthony Forster 3 * a retainer of his own, and at * Ashmole's Antiquities of Berkshire— Dugdale's Baron- age, vol. 2. B 18 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT that time his tenant * at Cumner Place. Of the atrocious attempts of Sir Richard Varney, and his accomplices, on the life of this unfortunate lady, and their too * From the following passage in Wood's Annals, vol. ii. p. 149, it appears, that Anthony Forster was a man of some importance : — ■ " Soon after the new Warden comes to Oxford, and the next day being the 30th of March, (1562,) came with Dr. Babington, the Vice-chancellor, Dr. Whyte, Warden of New College, and others, to Merton College gate, where, meeting him, certain of the Fellows gives them letters, under seal, from the Archbishop of Canterbury, Patron of that College, that he should be admitted Warden thereof; but the Fel- lows not agreeing at that time to give answer to his desire, deferred the matter to the 2nd of April : which day being come, he appears again at nine of the clock in the morning, accompanied with the before-mentioned persons, Henry Noreys of Wytham, Esq. and Anthony Forster of Cum- nore, Gent." In the same volume, p. 231, Wood, speaking of the Earl of Leicester's character, states, " that by the potency he had in the kingdom, and so consequently in the University, all persons were at his devotion, and nothing passed therein but he had intelligence by certain favourites that he enter- tained. Of these, the chief were, Dr. Walt. Baylie, Dr. Martin Culpeper, &c. The first, through his means obtained a fair estate, yet, towards his latter end, when he refused to consent to the making away of his Countess at Mr. Anthony Forster's house, in Comnore, was removed from his favour." OF CUMNER. 19 successful completion, a succinct ac- count is given by Ashmole. This cruel murder was perpetrated on the night of Saturday, the 8th of September, 1560,* and the corpse of their wretched victim was precipitated down a flight of stone stairs, which led from the long gallery to the hall below, under the hope that it might give a plausibility to a tale by which they intended to conceal their crime. She was at first buried privately in Cumner Church, but some inquiry being about to be instituted concerning this mysterious transaction, her body was taken up, and solemnly re-buried in St. Mary's Church, Oxford, according to Anthony Wood, "at the upper end of the chancel," though no stone now remains to * Anthony Wood's MSS. 1658. b2 20 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT mark the grave of this victim of insatiate ambition.* There is a tradition still ex- tant in the parish of Cumner, that the corpse of the unhappy Countess was found at the bottom of the stairs,, with a nail driven into her head. From this time the vengeance of heaven appears to have fallen, not only on the perpetrators of this atrocious murder, but also on the house in which it was com- mitted. After the death of Forster, Cumner Place was long uninhabited, and stories are still prevalent among the inha- bitants of Cumner of the spirit which frequented the deserted mansion : — * In the annexed account of Cumner, taken from Gough's Camden, it is stated that a monument was erected to her memory in St. Mary's Church. OF CUMNER. 21 And in that manor now no more Is cheerful feast and sprightly ball ; For ever since that dreary hour Have spirits haunted Cumnor Hall. Cumnor Hall. The apparition was said to appear in the form of a young and beautiful woman, superbly attired, and was mostly seen on the steps, the immediate scene of the bar- barous act. The tradition of the place relates, that the ghost was at last removed from the house, and laid to rest in a pond at a short distance from it. This venerable monastic structure, hav- ing been long untenanted, was repaired about a century ago, for the reception of a farmer and his family. Report asserts that a journeyman carpenter, who was at that time employed by his master to take down some of the buildings, discovered a 22 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT small trunk filled with gold coins, con- cealed in a chamber adjoining the long gallery. He left the neighbourhood of Cumner soon afterwards. About eleven years ago, the house again falling into a dilapidated state, it was taken down by the present owner, the Earl of Abing- don, and the site of Cumner Place is all that now remains of the favoured retreat of the powerful ecclesiastics of Abingdon. From inhabitants of the place, who re- member the edifice standing, and from several old authorities, I have collected the following description of it : — This ancient structure, which was of considerable extent, was built round a court or quadrangle of about seventy-two feet in length, and fifty in breadth. The principal entrance was on the north side, OF CUMKER. 23 under an archway, with rooms on either side of it ; above these, €t the long gal- lery" extended the whole length of that side of the building. At the west end of this apartment, the flight of stone stairs, at the bottom of which the body of the un- fortunate Lady Leicester was said to have been found, led down to the quadrangle, and great hall of the edifice, which was at right angles to the long gallery. Over a room beyond the hall was the apartment celebrated by the name of " Lady Dud- ley's Chamber;" and indeed so great an interest had the fate of that hapless Lady excited, that the whole place is still gene- rally called at Cumner, " Dudley Castle." On the south side were some apartments which bore traces of superior magnifi- cence, but which were in a state of dila- 24 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT pidation, when this seat of the wealthy Abbots became the residence of the indus- trious farmer. In the hall of this monkish edifice,* which was converted into a granary, was a large, old stone chimney-piece, on which were carved two mitres, and between them the name of 3t^4^ in ancient characters. At one end of it were the arms of the Abbey of Abingdon, and at the other, a shield. | " About four years ago, (says Dr. " Buckler,;):) the arms of the Abbey were * Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica. t Lyson supposes the date of the hall and chapel of Cumner Place, from the style of the windows, to have been as early as the fourteenth century. % Dr. Buckler's (the Vicar of Cumner,) Replies to Rowe Mores' Queries to the Clergy of Berks, Aug. 17, 1759. OF CUMNER. 25 " to be seen prettily painted in the re- " mains of the glass of one of the win- " dows. But some careless hand, or the " fingers of some admirer of antiquity, " has robbed us of them. Over a door- u case in this hall is this date, 1575. " Over the great gate at the entrance of cc the court, in the front of the house, is " the following inscription : — " JANUA VITiE VERBUM DOMINI. " ANTONIUS FORSTER. 1575." The windows of this hall are still ex- tant in the church at Wytham, where they were removed by Lord Abingdon, and the gateways above-mentioned form the entrance into the church-yard at the same place. The boundaries of what was formerly the garden may still be traced. 26 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT, &c. What is now called cc the Park" contains about twenty-five acres., but at the time when Cumner was more highly favoured, it is conjectured, from various circum- stances, that it extended to the boundary of the next parish, a distance of nearly three quarters of a mile from the house. The rustic simplicity of Cumner, so characteristic of an English village, can- not fail of interesting all those whose curiosity may induce them to visit a spot, which alike possesses charms for the anti- quary and lover of romance. ACCOUNT OF CUMNER, FROM GOUGH'S CAMDEN. ci At Cumner, a small town pleasantly situated on a hill, is a mineral purging water. The west door of the church is in the Saxon style. The Abbot of Abing- don had a manor here ; and a mansion- house with the arms of the Abbey on the Hall chimney-piece. When it was oc- cupied by Anthony Forster, who is buried, and has a brass in the church, the wife of the Earl of Leicester was supposed to have been privily made away with in it, being found at the bottom of the stairs, 28 ACCOUNT OF CUMNER, &c. with her neck broken ; and though the body was taken up by the coroner, no discovery was made at the time, and she was hand- somely re-interred in St. Mary's Church, Oxford, where she has a monument; but by the confession of some concerned, it afterwards came out. The chamber called Dudley's was shewn in this house in Ashmole's time*" " r '' v; ^w^ IDTJDLEY E/Ji OF LEICESTER. Drawn dtEngropfd ' fry TZTlMat/iews, /re& minor J)Uic frater praettante laulie 2&aron# C£amen0£ iriguit gloria magna folu armiger ergo pater, i>ominu£ fed aimnculu£ annaes Clara erat £ei£ merits ctarior anna fu& Cafta biro, ttutriofa ©ei, iiilecta propinqu# f £>tirpe beata fat#, prole beata fati£ Heater 5!oanni^, mebiaque aetate ftobertt <£t tiemum $enrici nobil# ilia parent Cjntftia, genelope tumulo tlautmntur in ifto, anna £e& £oc tumulo fola fepulta jacet* The six following lines are written be- neath the foregoing, two by two, in praise of Anthony Forster : — ANTHONY FORSTER. 57 argutae refonag cttfjarae praetentiere rfjortiag $ouit, et Simla concrepuiffe Ipra* $auutbat terrae tenera£ uetJgere plantar, €t mira pulrf)ra£ conttrum arte tiomo^ dTompoCta baria.g lingua formare foquelag ©ottu£ t tt edocta fcnbere mtrfta mamu The arms are these : — C3. Quarterly. < The arms over her head are as follows : 3. Hunter's horns, stringed. Pheons, with their points upwards. r l. Two organ pipes, in saltier, be- tween four crosses pate. 2. A raven. 3. A chevron ermine, between three Quarterly.^ lions' heads, erased within a border of roundelle, and on a chief bar a pale charged with a pelican. L4. As the first.* * Anthony Wood's MSS. 58 CUMNER. At the foot of Anthony Forster's tomb lie the bodies of two of the daughters of Rainold Williams, probably the same fa- mily as the wife of Forster. The follow- ing is one of the inscriptions : — getigtibe i&tatosrtoon tiafter toftapgnolti tfcpllgamj* of 2Borftto in tjje Ccmntp o£ 2$arfc£ effpper* The other is imperfect, and almost ille- gible ; and is to the memory of Katha- rine, the wife of Henry Staverton, and also daughter of Rainold Williams, of Borfeld. In the south transept of the Church are two ancient tombs, supposed to be those of two Abbots of Abingdon.* * Lyson's Berkshire. CUMNER. 59 " There is a tradition that Cassenton (on the other side of the Thames, in Ox- fordshire,) was in old times a chapel of ease to Cumner, and a part of the parish. It is said, that within these hundred years the people of Cassenton used to claim a right of burying there ; that they crossed the river with their dead at Somerford Mead, (where, it is said, the plank-stones are still to be seen by which they passed,) and from thence came up through the riding in Cumner Wood, (which they claimed as their church-way) and at a lane near a house called Blind Pinnock's, began their psalm singing, which lane is from hence called to this day, Songer's Lane. It is certain, that there is a part of Cumner ehurch-yard, lying behind the Church, known by the name of Cassenton 60 CUMNER. Burying Place, and that a demand of an acknowledgement of sixpence per annum is frequently made, and always complied with, by the parish of Cumner."* It may not be uninteresting to notice some singular old customs prevalent at Cumner, as related by Dr. Buckler, but which, I understand, have been discon- tinued within the last few years. On " the Perambulation Circuit" of the parish in the Rogation Days, the vicar and parishioners used to go into the ferry on the boundary of the parish, and crossing over to the Oxfordshire side, * Dr. Buckler's Replies to Rowe Mores' Queries. — Bib- liotheca Topographica Britannica. 1759. CUMNER. 61 they laid hold on the twigs, or reeds on the bank,, and concluded the ceremony by the Gospel of the Ascension. By this act, they were understood to assert the whole breadth of the river to belong to the pa- rish and manor of Cumner. The sum of 6s. 8d. the amount of Swinford tyth- ing was always brought to the vicar at Eynsham Ferry in a bason of water by the ferryman, (who attended him with a clean napkin,) and after he had fished for his money, he was expected to distribute the water among the young people who came within his reach, as a token of remem- brance to them of the custom. It was, a few years ago, a custom in the parish of Cumner for the parishioners, all those who payed the vicar any tythes, im- 62 CUMNER. mediately after prayers on the afternoon of Christmas Day to repair to the vicarage, where they were entertained with bread, cheese, and ale. They claimed on this occasion four bushels of malt brewed into ale and small beer, two bushels of wheat made into bread, and half a hundred weight of cheese ; the remains of the ale, small beer, bread and cheese were divided the next day after morning prayer to the poor of the parish.* This hospitable and charitable custom has now fallen into dis- use, and I understand, that a donation to the poor has been substituted in lieu of it. * Bibl. Topog. Brit.— Lyson's Berkshire. Cttmntr Han* X HE dews of summer night did fall, The moon (sweet regent of the sky) Silver'd the walls of Cumner Hall, And many an oak that grew thereby. Now nought was heard beneath the skies, (The sounds of busy life were still,) Save an unhappy lady's sighs, That issued from that lonely pile. " Leicester," she cried, " is this thy love, " That thou so oft has sworn to me, " To leave me in this lonely grove, " Immur'd in shameful privity 64 CUMNER HALL, " No more thou comest with lover's speed, " Thy once beloved bride to see ; " But be she alive, or be she dead, " I fear, stern Earl, 's the same to thee* " Not so the usage I receiv'd, " When happy in my father's hall ; " No faithless husband then me griev'd, " No chilling fears did me appal. " I rose up with the cheerful morn, No lark more blithe, no flow'r more gay; " And, like the bird that haunts the thorn, " So merrily sung the live-long day. " If that my beauty is but small, " Among court ladies all despis'd ; " Why didst thou rend it from that hall, Where, scornful Earl, it well was priz'd ? AN OLD BALLAD, 65 a And when you first to me made suit, " How fair I was you oft would say ! u And, proud of conquest, pluck' d the fruit, " Then left the blossom to decay. * " Yes, now neglected and despis'd, " The rose is pale — the lily's dead — u But he that once their charms so priz'd, " Is sure the cause those charms are fled. a For know, when sickening grief doth prey, u And tender love's repaid with scorn, M The sweetest beauty will decay — " What flow'ret can endure the storm ? " A court I'm told is beauty's throne, " Where every lady's passing rare ; " That eastern flowers, that shame the sun, " Are not so glowing, not so fair, E 66 CUMNER HALL, " Then, Earl, why didst thou leave the beds " Where roses and where lilies vie, " To seek a primrose, whose pale shades " Must sicken — when those gaudes are by ? " 'Mong rural beauties I was one, " Among the fields wild flow'rs are fair; " Some country swain might me have won, " And thought my beauty passing rare. " But, Leicester, (or I much am wrong) " Or 'tis not beauty lures thy vows ; " Rather ambition's gilded crown " Makes thee forget thy humble spouse. " Then, Leicester, why, again I plead, " (The injur'd surely may repine,) " Why didst thou wed a country maid, " When some fair princess might be thine ? AN OLD BALLAD. 67 H Why didst thou praise my humble charms, " And oh ! then leave them to decay ? u Why didst thou win me to thy arms, " Then leave me to mourn the live-long day ? " The village maidens of the plain u Salute me lowly as they go ; w Envious they mark my silken train, " Nor think a Countess can have woe. " The simple nymphs ! they little know " How far more happy' s their estate — " — To smile for joy — than sigh for woe — " — To be content — than to be great. " How far less blest am I than them ? " Daily to pine and waste with care ! " Like the poor plant, that from its stem " Divided — feels the chilling air. 6$ CUMNER HALL, u Nor (cruel Earl !) can I enjoy " The humble charms of solitude ; " Your minions proud my peace destroy, " By sullen frowns or pratings rude. " Last night as sad I chanc'd to stray, " The village death-bell smote my ear ; iQ They wink'd aside, and seem'd to say, " Countess, prepare — thy end is near. " And now, while happy peasants sleep, " Here I sit lonely and forlorn ; " No one to sooth me as I weep, " Save Philomel on yonder thorn. " My spirits flag — my hopes decay — " Still that dread death-bell smites my ear ; " And many a boding seems to say, " Countess, prepare — thy end is near.'* AN OLD BALLAD. 69 Thus sore and sad that lady griev'd, In Cumner Hall so lone and drear ; And many a heartfelt sigh she heav'd, And let fall many a bitter tear. And ere the dawn of day appear'd, In Cumner Hall so lone and drear, Full many a piercing scream was heard, And many a cry of mortal fear. The death-bell thrice was heard to ring, An aerial voice was heard to call ; And thrice the raven flapp'd its wing Around the tow'rs of Cumner Hall. The mastiff howPd at village door, The oaks were shattered on the green ; Woe was the hour — for never more That hapless Countess e'er was seen. / 7Q cumner hall. And in that manor now no more Is cheerful feast and sprightly ball 9 For ever since that dreary hour Have spirits haunted Cumner Hall. The village maids, with fearful glance, Avoid the ancient moss-grown wall ; Nor ever lead the merry dance Among the groves of Cumner Hall. Full many a traveller oft hath sigh'd, And pensive wept the Countess' fall, As wand'ring onwards they've espied The haunted tow'rs of Cumner Hall. THE END. Munday and Slatter, Printers, Oxford.