I 
 
 
ClassXX^5:L 
 BflokA^^ 
 
 corancur uepusit. 
 

 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 GEO. R. WASHBURNE and STANLEY BRONNER 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 LOUISVILLE 
 
 A'/.y/-:'r/-:/-:.\' /// ava'av ./.w ioi' k ri:i-:\ 
 
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 Copyright. 1911 
 
 Copyright. 1914 
 
 liy liullctin Publishing Co. 
 
 Louisville 
 
 ••-■*@CI.A;3T-J514 
 
# 
 
 #orswc>r6 
 
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 > 
 
 S^^^A HEN the first edition of !5Jcveragcs ~2)e~Cuxe was 
 Km m published, the editors expressed the hope that 
 ^^^^^^ the book would serve as a guide to connoisseurs 
 and those who serve them. That this hope 
 was realized is attested by the demand from those who enjoy 
 the good things of life all over the United States and those 
 who have to do with the preparing and serving of these good 
 things, necessitating and culminating in the preparation and 
 publication of this edition. 
 
 Since the publication of the former edition there has been 
 no diminishing of the agitation against the traffic that legiti- 
 mately supplies the demand for beverages, but the increased 
 use of such beverages, which use is still growing, along with 
 the greatest abhorrence of over-indulgence, demonstrates that 
 more and more of our people are using beverages moderately 
 and properly as they are intended to be used, and, therefore, 
 that a book of this kind fills its own peculiar niche and has 
 interest for the thousands and thousands of good citizens who 
 visit clubs, hotels and such places where the monotony of life 
 is broken. 
 
 Much that was good in the former edition of !!^cvcragcs 
 ~S>^~i.\x\^ is retained in this edition, but there is sufficient 
 new matter added of the same high class to make this edition 
 practically a new work. The editors will feel amply repaid 
 for their efforts if this edition meets with the same favor ac- 
 corded the first edition of leverages ~3!)c~Cuxc. 
 
gcotch and 
 
 Irish Whisky 
 
 liy 
 
 A Staff Editor of 
 
 HiJU'fi's W'hw ami Spirit 
 
 IraJc Circular 
 
 LonJim. hluiflariil 
 
 ^^ V^k.^^^ ANY circiiinslaiices ha\e combined lo make in 
 ^^^gF^W these days Scotch Whisky the most widely dis- 
 I « # tribiited of all the Spirituous liquors known to 
 ^^/ ^^ ^^ modern limes. Perhaps one reason for it being 
 so ubiquitous is the ubiquity on the inhabited 
 globe of the Scot. But it has .secured for it.self, and is still .secur- 
 ing a popularitj- among all nations, for which no mere Scottish 
 demand can account. 
 
 If one is able to look back some forty years one's recol- 
 lection lights on a time when Scotch Whisky fir.st began to 
 supersede in many markets Cognac Brandy in particular, and 
 to take the lead as par excellence the Spirit for drinking with 
 soda water. Since then the all conquering Scotch Whi.sky has 
 become the leading spirituous bevei'age in most of the markets 
 of the world, and even after a steady progress of two score years 
 its popularity does not seem to be at all on the wane. Its progre.ss 
 in the United States has been uniformly steady, and there is no 
 better line to handle, than a good Brand of Scotch Whi.sky. 
 Many circumstances have been working together to put it to 
 ihe front. Advertising has done much to make it known, but 
 Scotch Whisky would not be where it is, if it were not for the 
 commanding intrinsic value of tht> liciuor which reaches the 
 consumer under the aegis of the well-i'cnown brands. One of the 
 factors which has contributed greatly to the value, which it is 
 l)ossible to give, has been the enormous stock of fine old whiskies 
 which some sixteen years ago accumulated in the Distillery 
 Warehouses of mainly the Highland Districts of Scotlanfl. When 
 Scotsmen lose their head it is generally over some Caledonian 
 interest which promises success, and when a Scotman does 
 lo.se his head, he loses it entirely. Old Highland Distilleries were 
 greatly enlarged, new ones were \n\{ up in the favoured localities, 
 and a Hood of fine whisky was poured into stock in the years 
 1897-99, which constituted ever since an almost inexhau.stible 
 supply of fine matured spirit, which has for the last ten or 
 twelve years been "top dressing" the fine blends and which by 
 its moderate price has tempted the blender to u.se it and let 
 much of the whisky manufactured since also remain a i)eriod in 
 bond which it would ceiLainly not have done, had there not been 
 
tlie biK reserve behind, wiiich has cost tlie sjieculator or liolder 
 in its turn so much, if not in downrijrht hard casii, in loss of 
 interest on his money. AH this lias been greatly to the advan- 
 tage of the article distributed. It may safely be said, that no 
 such matured fine spirit as the Scotch Whisky sold under the 
 best known brands, can be obtained for the money in any other 
 description of spirituous liquors. On tlie continent of Eui'o]ie, 
 there is virtually no old beverage spirits of native make sold. As 
 liqueurs, and in the shape of a liqueur cognac, old spirits are 
 distributed in minute quantities, but in every part of the world 
 one can find fine old Scotch Whisky at a moderate iirice ready 
 to one's hand, a matured wholesome s])irit. 
 
 No country has as yet been able to manufacture Malt 
 Whisky of the style and quality which the best Highland Whiskies 
 furnish for the shippers blends. The chemistry of the Highland 
 stream and sky and of the peat cut from the mountain side, seem 
 in Scotland to have worked together to produce an article which 
 has nowhere else been rivalled. Bring the same malt, the same 
 peat, to the South, and use the water there, and you fail to catch 
 the subtle essences and vapours, which constitute the charm of 
 a fine Blend of Scotch, and there has been put together by the 
 clever blenders in Scotland a spirit, which stands well ahead in 
 that race for popularity in which all articles have to comjiete, 
 which claim world-wide acceptance. Scotch \\'hisky certainly 
 has run and won up to now, and we do not discern, anywhere, 
 a competitor which is even a good second, if quantity only is 
 taken into account. 
 
 We are obliged to accord to the Scotch article the leading 
 place, which is bespoken by its volume of manufacture, the re 
 spective distillations for 1912-1;! being: Scotland 24, and Ire- 
 land under 10 million, proof gallons. But as to initial price from 
 the distillery and value on the market, Dublin Whisky still holds 
 the highest place. The leading distillery there gets .5' — jier 
 gallon 25 o. p. for its whisky, which tops the record of the price 
 got by any Scotch Malt Distillery of late years. Scotland has 
 no great distilleries which export their whiskies in bottle, as do 
 some of the Dublin makers. Such firms as John Jameson & Sons, 
 and Sir John Power & Son, make, mature and bottle their inire 
 Pot-Still Whiskies and ship them under the aegis of their own 
 labels to all parts of the world. Irish Whisky therefore stands 
 distinctively out in this; that you can have the guarantee of the 
 actual maker to his article. This may be illustrated by the fact, 
 that the annual capacity of the leading Irish Pot-Still Distiller is 
 
about a million gallons, whereas there is not a Scotch Hijrhlaiul 
 Malt Dislillery which during the last decadfe has made more than 
 a quaiter of that quantity. The difference is, that the best and 
 most approved Scotch Whisky is a blend sometimes of the makes 
 of twenty distillers, whereas for the best Irish an individual dis- 
 tiller is responsible for his own make bottled "entire." Blending 
 of Irish does take place, but for the best, one has to go to the 
 distiller direct, unlike the Scotch article, for which a blender is 
 from the nature of things responsible. 
 
By 
 A. M. I IAN AVER 
 
 Of Hambuiyer Distillery 
 Pittshurgh. Pa. 
 
 Rye whisky and wry faces do not go together. 
 Sit down at home, at the chib or cafe, and when the 
 choice, mild, mellow, and matured rye whisky is 
 served, you see before you the finest drink man is 
 capable of distilling from grain. You smile in con- 
 templation, and comprehend how the expression 
 arose, "Give me a smile," meaning a drink, around which 
 clusters only smile, laughter and joyousness, the good story 
 brimful of wit and humor and laughter. One can understand 
 why the sah'ation lassies get their best ijickings from the lovers 
 of rye. One recalls Bobby Burns and his sweet songs of the rye 
 fields, taught us in childhood's happy hours. Was it not r>i.s- 
 marck, the greatest statesman of the nineteenth century, and 
 himself the proprietor of a distillery, who remarked, "B.eer is 
 for women, wine fin- men, and rye for heroes." 
 
 In our country, with its rush and bustle and perpendicular 
 drinking, one finds that some men do not understand the fine 
 art of eating and drinking and living. You sometimes see such 
 a man rush up to the bar, order a fine old rye, gulp it down, 
 take some water, and rush out again. That is like turning 
 somersaults in church— it is a sacrilege. Oh, no, my friend; 
 that is not the way to do. Don't start a conflagration in your 
 stomach and then start the fire department after it. Perpen- 
 dictular drinking leads to oblique vision. 
 
 The right way is to greet King Rye with ceremony, rever- 
 ence and affection, which his age, his strength, his spirit, his 
 purity and his birth demand. Treat him right and he will see 
 that you are treated right; alnise him and he will see that you 
 suft'er. He permits you to look into nature's mirror. The law 
 of comijensation holds fast— "whatever you do to him you do to 
 
 yourself." 
 
 Sit down, my friend, and ask for a choice real old rye, a 
 nectar fit for the gods. Pour it slowly; feast your eyes on its 
 golden hues. Is it the golden fleece for which the argonauts of 
 old strived? Inhale its exquisite aroma; enjoy its superb bou- 
 quet; it In-ings to the mind's eye the smiling rye fields, the rye 
 waving joyously in the sun, and the troop of happy children 
 passing through. Look again, and the liquid amber, coupled 
 with the word Monongahela, bring remembrances of George 
 
WashiiiKlon (wlio also uwiieil a tlislillrry ) and the stirring days 
 of the whisky insurrection. Looi< again, and you see another of 
 the immortals, Lincoln, selling it. Pour a little more; that i.s 
 incense, indeed. See the crown of nature's beads that puts a 
 diadem on King Rye. it is the essence of summer days concen- 
 trated in crystal. A proper palace for King Rye. 
 
 "I'ick him u]) carefully, handle with care; 
 l-'ashioned so charmingly and debonair." 
 
 lie is wi'lconu' cvcrywlu'rc. Take liini to your heart and he 
 warms it, cheers you, puts you in the best spirits. 
 
 So you ask me how rye whisky is made? Come with me to 
 one of the celebrated distilleries of the Monongaheia \'alley; 
 the Bridgeport distillery at South lirown.sville, i'a. \Ve will 
 take the New York Central lines uij and come down on the 
 Penn.sylvania lines, both of wiiich pass through the distillery 
 property, and while you are looking at the \ast number of mills 
 and iron works in this valley, that succeed one another with 
 amazing rapidity until we get beyond Monessen, about forty 
 miles from Pittsburg, I will try to tell .\ ou a little about the di.s- 
 tillation of whisky before we reach the i)lant ; and, by the way, 
 what a number of di.stilleries there are in this \alleyl We first 
 pa.ss Finch's, then Tom Moore, while Large is a little in the in- 
 terior near Elizabeth, then Sunnyside, C.ibson, the Hamburger 
 Distilling Co., Thompson, Vandegrift, the two Old Gray dis- 
 tilleries, Emery, Lippincott, and a numbt'r of other smaller 
 distilleries. 
 
 You know that Socrates thought the yeasting germ, the 
 germ of life itself, and, as you are well aware, all brewing and 
 distilling is founded on the fermentation of the licpior through 
 the yeast germ. 
 
 Ancient Egypt had its beer, and there is no civilized coun- 
 try that does not have its li(|Uor. Scientific brewing and dis- 
 tilling is based upon the famous researches of Pasteur. 'I'he 
 foundaton that he had has been built upon 1j\' others, so tiiat 
 to-day the yeasting and fermenting are scientific studies in or- 
 ganic chemistry, while the distillation it.self is a study in alco- 
 holmetry. If anywhere the adage holds good that "Cleanliness 
 is next to Godline.ss," it is in a distillery, for the healthy yeast 
 germ and proper fermentation can only take i^lace where the 
 distillery is clean and sweet, and a good yield is then madi'. 
 
 There is another thing that you should know before you 
 inspect the distillery, and that is that the entire plant is bonded 
 to the United States; that the Government inspectors have 
 charge and supervision of everything that goes into the manu- 
 facture of whi.sky, and have complete charge of the warehou.ses 
 and the goods until they are tax-paid. 
 
 We have now arrived, and after going through the power- 
 house, with its battery of boilers and its engines and light plant, 
 
we see cars of clioice rye on the siding being emptied by convey- 
 ing machinery, wliich carries tiie grain into the cleaner. It is 
 tlien weiglied and elevated, and from the elevators it is conveyed 
 to the mills, where it is ground and sent to the meal hoppers. 
 The malt is treated in the same way in separate malt mills. 
 The hopper scale is weighed by the Government inspector, and 
 the proper amount f)f rye dropped into the mash tub, where 
 it is continually stirred while cooking, and after it has been 
 cooked to the proper temperature it is cooled off, and the malt 
 put in and cooked at a certain temperature until the cooking 
 process is complete. Meantime the yeast has been put into the 
 fermenting tub. The cooked grain is then run through coolers 
 and cooled to the proper temperature and put in the fermenting 
 tubs, where it remains not exceeding seventy-two hours. Mean- 
 time the distiller is busy taking the temperatures and making 
 his tests, and when the saccharine matter is all out, the fer- 
 mented liquor or beer is then run into a beer well, from whence 
 it is passed into a three-chamber still, then through a doubter and 
 run into a tank, from whence it is redistilled, sent to the cistern 
 through closed pipes under lock and seal, and then barreled in 
 the presence of the United States ganger, from whence it is de- 
 livered into the custody of the United States storekeeper as it is 
 passed into the \\;irehouses for storage and aging. The whole 
 process is interesting, and one could stand by the hour looking 
 at the various jihases of the fermentation. 
 
 You ask me wiiy rye is preferred to other grains. Even 
 makers of Bourbon whiskies boast of the quantity of small 
 grains they use, as that indicates a better (|uality and sweetness, 
 and rye makes one of the sweetest whiskies it is possbile to 
 distill. 
 
 You have noticed that there is absolutely' no opportunity 
 for adulteration; that the entire process is under the argus eyes 
 of the Government insjiectors, and probably there is no line of 
 industry that has less opportunity for mixing or adulterating 
 than the distillation of whisky, as you have seen for yourself. 
 
 You seem surprised at the splendid buiklings, the large 
 massive warehouses heated by steam, so that there is a per- 
 petual summer, and the goods are maturerl much more rapidly 
 than in the olden times. And you also ask to see the bottling 
 house, where bottled-in-bond goods are completed. You find it 
 a very busy place, the Government inspectors on the look-out 
 and the machinery busy, and the hands all intent on their work, 
 and you find the.se cases being shipped in lots to all jiarts of the 
 country. 
 
 One of my friends in one of the .so-called prohibition States 
 sent me the following lines: 
 
 "Drink and the world drinks with you ; 
 Swear olf. and vou drink alone." 
 
J^ourhon 
 
 Whisky 
 
 liy 
 
 GEORGE G. imoXW 
 
 /*tv.siJcnt 0/ firawn-Eurman Company 
 
 L.<iui<.vilU', Kentucky 
 
 Just wlien tlie first distillery was erected in 
 J\entucky, I cannot say, but, so far as I know, the 
 first recorded reference to whisky was in the year 
 1782. This was when Captain Robert Patterson, of 
 "Irish-Presbyterian-Covenanter stock," with a com- 
 pany of about forty men, started from a point in 
 what is now Fayette County, Kentucky, to reach the Oiiio River 
 where the Kentucky River empties into it, to meet an expedition 
 sent up the Ohio from the fails of that river (now Louisville) 
 by General George Rogers Clark. Such an expedition at that 
 date was not only perilous, but accomplished under great difH- 
 culties; the proper sustenance of the men being one of the prob- 
 lems that was encountered. On this expedition the only food 
 pi'ovided was a small (luantity of parched corn, to be supple- 
 mented by such game as the members could kill en route. In 
 Captain Patterson's Company was a rollicking young man 
 named Aaron Reynolds, from Bryant's Station, who, it is 
 stated, was a very "profane, swearing man." This habit of Rey- 
 nolds was extremely di.sagreeable to his Captain, who, after 
 bearing with it for four days, concluded to reprove him, and, 
 if that failed, and the profanity was persisted in, although 
 Reynolds was very much needed on the expedition, he would be 
 sent home. Reynolds received the reproof, but persisted in his 
 profanity. Captain Patter.son, "a judicious gentleman," con- 
 cluded he would try another method for the reformation of Rey- 
 nolds, and promi.sed him that, if he would stop swearing, he 
 would give him a quart of irliiskii when the expedition reached 
 the Ohio River (where doubtless the liquor was obtained from 
 the expedition sent up the river by General Clark). Reynolds 
 accepted the conditions made by Captain Patterson, and history 
 shows that he received the "spirits," according to promise, which 
 he and his friends enjoyed. 
 
 There is no further record of Reynolds until a few months 
 later when the most sanguinary battle with Indians ever fought 
 in Kentucky occurred at the Blue Licks. A very large portion of 
 the white men had been killed in this battle. The safety of those 
 who escaped was due to the fleetness of their horses and the 
 ability of the horses to swim the river. Captain Patterson was 
 
wounded and lay exhausted on the ground, Reynolds, fleeing on 
 horseback, saw his Captain, jumped from his horse, and insisted 
 on Patterson taking the horse and making his escape. This 
 Patterson was reluctant to do, as it seemed impossible that any 
 one without a horse could possibly escape from the Indians, but 
 Reynolds put his Captain on the horse and took his chances 
 without it. The result was that Reynolds was captured by two 
 Indians. He was left in charge of one of them, whom he knock- 
 ed down and then made his escape. Patterson was much grati- 
 fied upon meeting Reynolds, and, in reply to his question what 
 had prompted him to be willing to probably sacrifice his own 
 life, for his Captain, was told that it was because his Captain 
 reproved him when he needed reproof. Reynolds became a re- 
 ligious man, joining the Baptist Church, and, according to tra- 
 dition, became a Baptist preacher. I have dwelled upon this 
 incident because it brings up the question in ethics as to what 
 influence the quart bottle of whisky may have had in changing 
 Reynolds from a habitual breaker of one of the Ten Command- 
 ments by Patterson violating the eleventh man-made "prohibi- 
 tion commandment," "Thou shalt not make, sell, or use an 
 intoxicating beverage." I leave the determination of this ques- 
 tion to my readers, for I fear I am digressing from my subject, 
 "Bourbon Whisky." 
 
 The early settlers of Kentucky, like Noah when he had been 
 preserved from the flood, seemed to have felt the need for an 
 alcoholic stimulant. Therefore, it is likely that as soon as corn 
 had begun to be grown in Kentucky some of it was converted 
 into whisky. In the beginning, of course, this was done on a 
 very small scale, and in a crude, jn'imitive way, but, as the 
 liquor distilled in this way, from corn, in the early days of 
 Kentucky, became more and more popular, both on account of 
 its flavor as a beverage and its beneficial effect as a stimulant, 
 the reputation of Kentucky whisky conmienced to spread beyond 
 the borders of the State and a demand for the liquor from all the 
 surrounding territory ensued. Thus, the distillation of whisky 
 started by settlers of Kentucky for their own use, their families, 
 and friends, develojjed into a business to meet the growing de- 
 mand for what has since become Kentucky's internationally- 
 known product. The first distilleries of the State were located 
 on farms; most of the farms of any importance having these 
 small stills, which were operated by unskilled men, and without 
 much regard to science. But when the Civil War occurred in 
 this country, a Federal tax was imposed on whisky, which re- 
 quired strict Governmental supervision, and, consequently, 
 many of these small stills were abandoned, with the result that 
 much larger quantities of whisky have been made in distilleries 
 
erected on more .scienlilic and ccoiioniic prinuiplL's than had 
 been previously made. 
 
 The first whisicy made in Kentucky was produced exclusive- 
 ly from corn, which was grown right on the farms where these 
 small stills had been set up. Later, it was found that the intro- 
 duction of some rye with the corn, in the mash, increased the 
 yield of spirits produced and improved the flavor. Still later, 
 it was found that barley, malted, further increa.sed the yield. 
 The fertile county of Uourboii was the largest producer of 
 whisky in Kentucky in those early days, and it is said that the 
 first still was erected there. The whisky made in that county 
 became known as "B()url)i)ii Whisky." Later, other counties be- 
 came celebrated for the quantity and character of their produc- 
 tions of whisky, such as Nelson, Anderson, Fayette, Daviess, 
 Marion, etc., and in Kentucky, before the Civil War, the county 
 in which the whisky was produced became, as it were, a trade 
 mark for all the distilleries in such county, so that, among Ken- 
 tuckians, whisky was known by the county in which it was dis- 
 tilled. But, outside of the State of Kentucky, Bourbon County, 
 whicli had been the largest producer of whisky, became the mcst 
 important source of supply for the demand for the goods from 
 without the borders of the State, and, con.sequently, Kentucky 
 whisky was linked with the name of that county. Bourbon, 
 therefore, became a generic name, as known outside oi the 
 State, to all whisky made in the whole State of Kentucky of 
 which the largest percentage of grain, from which it was made, 
 consisted of corn. 
 
 Kentucky, having succeeded so well in establishing a legiti- 
 mate commerce with Bourbon whisky, the distillers began to 
 manufacture other whisky with a larger percentage of rye, and 
 sometimes with a total of rye, known as "Rye Whisky," so that 
 for more than a quarter of a century all whisky made in Ken- 
 tucky has been known as either Bourbon or Rye whisky. As 
 indicative of the improvements made in the .scientific distillation 
 of whi.sky, I will cite the fact that the yield per bushel of grain 
 of about two gallons and a quart of whisky has about doubled 
 within the last half century. In my own experience in the busi- 
 ne.ss, now pa.st forty years, I remember buying a crop of old- 
 fashioned sour mash whisky, the yield of which was oidy two 
 and one-fourth gallons per bushel. Such a small yield as this 
 now would entail on the producer the payment of the (tovern- 
 ment tax of $1.10 per gallon on the deficiency for his failure to 
 obtain as much spirits from each bushel of grain as the Govern- 
 ment, after surveying the distillery, holds should be the mini- 
 mum amount produced in 1h(> iilant. 
 
Much of tilt' wliisky made in Kentiicl\y in its early history 
 was shipped by Hatboats down the Ohio and Mississi))])! Rivers 
 to New Orleans. The reputation of Kentucky Bourbon whisky 
 has grown vastly since the Civil War, until now "Old Kentucky 
 Bourl)on" is a synonymous term for "the best whisky." While 
 Bourbon has probably become a generic name for whisky made 
 for aging purjuises where corn jireponderates in its manufac- 
 ture, Kentucky can never become generic except for whisky 
 made in that State, and Kentucky naturally revolts at having 
 whisky made outside of its boi'ders branded as made within its 
 borders. The high reputation of Kentucky Bourbon whisky 
 among the finest beverages of the world is jealously regarded, 
 and has been well earned, for, as a beverage, either when taken 
 straight or in any of the many delightful, exhilarating mixtures 
 in which Bourbon forms the base, or, to mention more specifical- 
 ly, an old-fashioned Kentucky toddy or mint julep, there is no 
 finer drink known to man, either brewed, fermented, or dis- 
 tilled. 
 
Domestic 
 Gins 
 
 liy 
 E. J. DANIELS 
 
 of Baird-Dank'h Co. 
 New York 
 
 In the last ten years the distillation of Domestic 
 tiins lias taken very rapid strides in the United 
 States, and the j^in in(kistry has done much to con- 
 vince the American consumer ol' the fact that a good 
 honest product can be manufactured here as well as 
 in Europe. 
 
 It is not many years ayo that it was the average American's 
 opinion tliat everything imported was good, and that everything 
 domestic was inferior, but, thanks to the progressive spirit of 
 the American manufacturer, this erroneous conception is grad- 
 ually disappearing. A multitude of sins were frequently cov- 
 ered under an imported label, and on this account the firm with 
 which the writer is associated adopted several years ago the 
 motto, "It can be only prejudice that prefers foreign inferiority 
 to domestic superiority." 
 
 A campaign of education, with the object in view of over- 
 coming prejudice, is of necessity a hard one. This prejudice has 
 often been warranted, for the old-fashioned American desire for 
 making money quickly accounts for domestic products of in- 
 ferior quality ; however, these exceptions merely make the rule. 
 The rule is that the American manufacturer's honesty is 
 second to none. This, coupled with unexcelled ingenuity, lib- 
 eral business ideas and great progressi\eness, ci'eates conditions 
 for the domestic pi'oducts of which any American can justly be 
 proud. 
 
 The protective tarilf has benefited domestic indu.stries, and 
 at the present time European manufacturers are coming to this 
 country, building here their jilants, emjjloying American labor, 
 benefiting their locality, enriching this country at large, and 
 confirming the formerly disputed theory that meritorious prod- 
 ucts could be produced in the new world as well as in the old. 
 
 It is strange, but true, that very few people know anything 
 about Gin. "Gin is made from Juniper berries," is the general 
 answer one receives to the question what (Jin really is, and 
 when given the information that Gin is distilled from grain, and 
 that Juniper berries are only used for flavoring purposes, he is 
 greatly surprised. "Gin" is a derivation from the word "Gene- 
 
va." and that is the proper Eiiglisli word. "Geneva" is derived 
 from the Latin word "Juniperus," the French for Cin being 
 "Jenievre," and the Dutch calling it "Jenever." 
 
 The Hollanders were the first nation to distill (iin. The 
 industry in that country dates back to the period when the 
 Dutch were the foremost seafarers and carried a broom at the 
 masthead, symbolical of sweeping the seas. They probably dis- 
 covered the Juniper berry along the Mediterranean shores. 
 
 Holland is not a grain-producing country, and the various 
 grains used for distilling purposes are either of American oi' 
 Russian origin. 
 
 Without going into much scientific detail as to the distilla- 
 tion of Holland Gin, it is probably of interest to know that rye 
 and varous cereals (principally Malted Barley) are ground, 
 and, in accordance with their starchy qualities, are subjected to 
 various degrees of heat. The "mash," a.s the mixture is called, 
 is allowed to ferment for seventy-two hours, after which it is 
 distilled. This distillate is called Moutwyn, and is later re-di.s- 
 tilled with Juniper berries. In the distillation of Old Tom, Dry 
 and Sloe Gins, a variety of herbs, seeds and roots is used, which 
 imparts a dirt'erent flavor to it than that which characterizes 
 Holland (Jin. These gins have become very popular in this 
 country, and are mostly uso'd for the well known and .I'ustly 
 famous American mixed drinks, as Martini Cocktails, Gin 
 Rickeys, Gin Fizzes and many others. 
 
 A (luestion which is very often asked is, "Does Gin improve 
 with age?" The answer to this question is in the affirmative, 
 but, as the improvement can only take place by the (jin coming 
 in contact with the wood of the cask, the Gin turns yellow, and 
 is not saleable, as the American consumer (for some unexplain- 
 able reason) requires Gin to be perfectly white. To humor this 
 whiin the distiller uses paraffine wax, which is boiled to a high 
 degree of heat and poured into the cask. A thin coating of 
 paratfine is thus formed on the inner surface of the cask, which 
 prevents the Gin from coming in contact with the wood, and 
 consequently retaining its color. 
 
 In concluding this short article on Domestic Gins, let us 
 rejoice that we are living in a country which is progressing with 
 amazng rapidity ; a country whose Government protects home 
 industries, and where the workingmen receive wages higher 
 than those of other nations. We equally rejoice for the pa- 
 triotic American good sense which has made it possible for the 
 Domestic Gin industry to have become the important factor it 
 is to-day. 
 
Jsjew England 
 Rum 
 
 IREDERIC L. FELTON 
 
 Of f'cllon ct Son 
 
 Boslan. Mass. 
 
 ^^^^ Any account ol" beverages de luxe would be 
 
 J|^*^|^ incomplete without some reference to the distilla- 
 m <#M| *^i"" "^ Rum, an industry which dates back to the 
 ■«M<<ii^B ^'^^^'^^' ''''i'^ °^ ^^^ colonies, and which has con- 
 ^Kk^i^V tinned with the usual variations down to the 
 
 ^^I^F present date. One of the first points, of course, 
 is to disabuse the mind of the reader of any idea which he may 
 have that this refers to Rum in the extremely broad and general 
 sense in which the word is used by nearly all of the anti-lifiuoi' 
 element, as well as by some who are in the habit of using stimu- 
 lants. It is a common thing in even the best journals to see 
 references such as "Rum did it," or "The Rum element," the 
 terms being meant to cover everything alcoholic. As a matter 
 of fact, the production of Rum in this country is about one and 
 one-half per cent, of the total production of strong alcoholic 
 liquors, and the actual use of Rum as a beverage is still smaller 
 proportionately. 
 
 IMany articles and chapters have been written on the be- 
 ginning of the manufacture of Rum, as well as the derivation 
 of the word itself. As to the exact period when the distillation 
 of a i)otable liquor from molasses began, it is pi-()l)al)ly i)rac- 
 tically coeval with the beginning of the manufacture of the cane 
 sugar itself. According to a paper on the etymology of the 
 word "Rum," written for pi'i\ate circulation some years ago by 
 N. Darnell Davis, who at that time occujiied an imjiortant of- 
 ficial position in the colony of British (iuiana, Rum was first 
 distilled from the juice of the sugar cane in Barbadoes about 
 the year 1640 or 104.5, and the name the planters of the colony 
 gave to the new liquor was "kill devil." At a comparatively 
 early period it was called "Rum-bullion," a word which expres.sed 
 the idea of a great quarrel or tumult. 
 
 In the library of Trinity College, Dublin, there is a manu- 
 script containing a de.scription of Barbadoes about the year 1651. 
 The writer refers to the new spirit as follows: "The chief 
 fuddling they make in the i.sland is Rum-bullion, alias Kill 
 Divill, and this is made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, 
 and terrible liquor." 
 
Mr. Davis thinks that it was about the year IGGO that lluiii- 
 bullion was clipped of two of its syllables, but the hrst mention 
 of the abridged word in any public document in Barbadoes ap- 
 pears to have been in an act passed in 1668 to prevent the sale 
 of both brandy and rum in the tippling houses near the most 
 frequented highways or roads of the island. The word "Hum," 
 however, occurs in certain orders of the Government and coun- 
 cil of Jamaica as early as 1661. 
 
 As to the exact date of the beginning of this industry in the 
 United States, Rum appears to have been manufactured in New 
 England before 1687, as "New England Rum" sold in that year 
 at Is. 6d. per gallon, which is practically to-day's wholesale 
 price for New Rum, not including the internal revenue tax. 
 
 In the old days of this country many of the best men of the 
 town of Boston, in addition to being great ship owners, were 
 distillers of New England Rum, those two industries being put 
 down in the history of the times as two of the most important 
 in Boston, and the commodity itself was not only used as a 
 staple for family consumption and as a cheering adjunct to 
 official and social events, as the hiying of corner stones of pub 
 lie buildings and the building of churches, but was early used 
 as one of the great instruments in assisting to civilize and 
 Chrstianize our black brothers in Africa. During all of the 
 time since, the distillation of Rum has been contined almost 
 entirely to New England, all the Rum made in this country, in 
 fact, having come to bear the distinctive name, "New England 
 Rum," as being different from the imported article. 
 
 The Rum of domestic use to-day, which has been aged for 
 many years in the wood, is very different from the "hot, hellish, 
 and terrible liquor" above referred to. Much care is taken by 
 tiiose distillers making a specialty of fine old Rum in the selec- 
 tion of their molas.ses, the fermentation and distillati(ni, as well 
 as in the selection of the barrel and storage in which it is kept. 
 Both as an art and an industry, the business of distilling Rum 
 has remained, as a sort of heirloom, through successive genera- 
 tions in some of our oldest and most resjiectable New England 
 families, who have taken pride and pains in bringing it up to 
 the highest attainable standard of jierfection. 
 
 The general tendency noticeable in other lines of business, 
 too numerous to specify individually, toward consolidation, or 
 at least towards fewer and larger manufacturing iilants, has 
 applied as well to the manufacture of New England Rum, and 
 while in 1753 there were sixty-three distilleries in Ma.s.sachusetts, 
 and fifty years ago perhaps thirty small distilleries scattered 
 along the New England coast from New Haven to Portland, 
 
there are to-day but eight in the I'liited States, all but one of 
 those being located in New England, and only two outside of 
 Massachusetts. 
 
 While, during the past thirty years, there has been an in- 
 crease of about 125 per cent, in the production of distilled spirits 
 in general, there has been practically no increase in the produc- 
 tion of Rum. 
 
 The maximum production ol' iium reached 2,4:59,.']01 gal- 
 lons in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1880. 
 
 The manufacture of Rum has not kept jjace with the in- 
 crease in population. This is due to the fact that drinking, like 
 other things, including architecture and clothes, has its styles, 
 varying from time to time, sometimes for good reasons, some- 
 times for none. 
 
 For many years during tlie early history of the country, 
 Uluii, which is made only from molasses, was practically the 
 only strong liquor in use, as nearly all grain in the country was 
 consumed as food. 
 
 American (Ryo and Houriion ) whisky, the i)roducts of 
 grain, may be .said to have come in style about the time of the 
 Civil War, although George Washington made some at Mount 
 Vernon, and there was considerable di.stillation throughout the 
 South, its consumption increasing gradually for many years, it 
 taking the place formerly occupied by Rum as a national bev- 
 erage. Fifteen or more years ago Scotch whisky began an in- 
 creasing popularity, and in the .same way, although perhaps in 
 a lesser degree, there has been during the past two or three years 
 an increasing demand for fine old Rum. 
 
 Another reason for the lack of growth of the Rum industry 
 is found in the fact that alcohol for medicinal and manufactur- 
 ing ])urposes can be generally more cheaply jjroduced from grain 
 than from molasses. But many old-fashioned i)eople and good 
 Judges of liciuor still adhere to the use of our foi-efiithers' favorite 
 drink. 
 
 It is evident that the actual ])r(i(iuction in gallons ha\ing 
 remained about the same, and the number of distilleries ha\ing 
 decrea.sed, those distilleries now in e.xistence, or some of them, 
 at least, mu.st be of much larger capacity than those of the early 
 days. The largest Rum distilleries now in oi)eration are located 
 within the Boston Metropolitan district, one of them alone hav- 
 ing a capacity of more than 1,500,000 gallons per annum. Some 
 of them, however, still remain jiractically unchanged from our 
 grandfathers' days. 
 
 In financial standing and in good rei)utation of tho.se en- 
 gaged in it, this industry compares favorably to-day as it did in 
 its beginning with any other in the country. 
 
j\merican 
 
 Beers 
 
 By 
 H. E. U. HEINEMANN 
 
 Editor 
 
 American Brewers' Rei'iew 
 
 Chicago 
 
 The beverage popularly known as "beer" in 
 ^ll^ America to-day is derived from the German type 
 
 Hp ^ of bottom fermented beer. In the earl\- 
 ^fr clays of the country beer meant the same as 
 
 ^^ f it does to-day in England, where it applies 
 
 ^■|£?"'*^ to the types prepared by top fermentation, 
 ^^ comprising ale, stout, porter and their va- 
 
 rieties. That is to say, it applied to these fiipcs, although, 
 of course, the character of them has changed considerably since 
 colonial days and, like other food products, has been vastly im- 
 proved since the articles are produced on an industrial scale 
 instead of by home brewing. The ales, stouts and porters still 
 maintain a certain vogue in Eastern States. 
 
 While derived from the German types, American l)eer has 
 developed a character of its own. European experts who have 
 traveled in this country have said that it is impossible to decide 
 the question which is better, there being so much difference of 
 character that comparison is impracticable. They have agreed 
 that American beers average fully as good as German beers for 
 those who like their character. Americans traveling in Ger- 
 many report that American beers average higher in quality 
 than the German. Perhaps this oi>inion may also be due to 
 personal preference of character. American critics of American 
 beers usually compare the average American beers with those 
 imported from Germany, without stopping to reflect that the 
 export beers shipped to this country are the pick of the whole 
 country, specially brewed for export, and necessarily of excep- 
 tional quality because otherwise they would not stand the hard- 
 ships of export, especially since the American food law excluded 
 the use of preservatives, like salicylic acid. 
 
 The peculiar character of American beer was developed in 
 response to the peculiar requirements of the public taste. It is 
 often said by thoughtless or uninformed persons that American 
 brewers ought to return to the original German t\pe of l)eer. 
 But those who have tried it— and there are many— ha\e in- 
 variably found that there was no demand for such beers, and 
 have been obliged to give them up. 
 
When Ihe American wants a drink lie wants a drink. W'lien 
 the German wants a drink of beer he expects to get a small meal. 
 The American wants a light, thin, .sparkling, snappy beverage 
 with a good aroma and spicy taste, and he also wants a beverage 
 that is pleasing to the eye, because he drinks from a gla.ss, 
 where the German drinks from a stone mug. This last reciuire- 
 ment has given extraordinary importance to the matter of ap- 
 pearance in American beers. A German does not object to 
 haziness or even cloudiness in beer, in fact the best German and 
 Bohemian beers are always cloudy, particularly when served 
 almo.st ice cold, as is the practice in this country. The American 
 wants his beer clear and brilliant. He also wants it very cold. 
 Low temperature freciuently causes precipitation of albuminous 
 matters in the beer with consequent cloudiness. Hence, Ameri- 
 can beers cannot have the heavy body of German beers. They 
 also average a trifle lighter in alcohol than German beers. 
 
 Another circumstance that lias contributed to the modifica- 
 tion of the original (Jernian type into the modern American 
 tyjie is the great exjjansion of tlie bottle beer industry. This 
 is almost exclusively American. IJottle beer is comparatively a 
 recent development in Kurojje. Tiie domestic ice chest is not so 
 universal in Europe, and it is therefore more difficult to keep 
 beer in the house. Bottle beer is exposed to greater hardships 
 than keg beer. Where keg beer goes there is always the neces- 
 sary furniture to keep and tap it, whereas bottle beer goes into 
 many places where there is scant provision for handling it 
 properly, which is a matter of great importance with so per- 
 ishable an article as beer generally is. This condition of the 
 market has contributed further to the thorough clarification of 
 American beer .so as to eliminate all substances which may lead 
 to deterioration when kept for a long time and exposed to heat 
 and cold by untrained hands. The matter of .stability thus 
 acquires exceptional importance in American beer, and the 
 jiroblem has been solved with a fair degree of success. It is 
 the object of research at present and promises an early com- 
 plete solution. 
 
 As is well known, the chief base of mo.st types of beer is 
 barley malt. American barleys have a higher albumen content 
 than German barleys, and, partly to offset this excess, partly 
 to produce the light character demanded by the American taste, 
 almost all American beers are made with an admixture of other 
 grains to add to the starch contained in the barleycorn. I'"'or 
 this purpo.se rice and corn are u.sed, being freed from the husk 
 and, in the case of corn, from the germ, in order to eliminate 
 matters that are objectionable to the taste. 
 
 In the production of beer, the barley is malted, which means 
 
it is sprouted to a certain degree, found by long experience to 
 afford the proper measure of dissolution of the starch and al- 
 bumen and to develop the required amounts of diastase and 
 peptase — ferments which convert starch into sugar and dextrin 
 and modify the albumen — after which the malt is (juickly dried 
 and heated to a sutticient degree to stop growth and produce 
 tiie desired aromatic properties. The malt is ground and 
 mashed. To mash means to mix with water of certain tempera- 
 ture and by constant stirring and adjustment of temperatures 
 to extract and modify the solid constituents of the grain, chiefly 
 starch, albumen and mineral matters. It is in the ma.sh that 
 rice or corn products are added, after being boiled separately. 
 The liquid run off from the mash tub, called "wort," is run into 
 a copper kettle and boiled for a certain time, hops being added 
 while in the kettle. The object served by the hops is mainly to 
 give aroma and taste, but they also act as a natural preserva- 
 tive. The wort is then run over coolers, extreme care being 
 taken to prevent access of foul air or substances which might 
 introduce germs that would start undesirable fermentations. 
 The wort is run into fermenting tanks, and yeast admixed. The 
 yeast is a ferment which splits up sugar into carbonic acid and 
 alcohol, just as it does in bread, only in wort it acts more 
 strongly. When the desired degree of fermentation is reached 
 the wort is run into casks, where it is kept for a time to undergo 
 secondary or slow fermentation ami to allow solids to settle 
 out. When it has reached the degree of aging and clarification 
 that is necessary it is racked, or filled off, into shplping pack- 
 ages. During the storage or aging period most of the carbonic 
 acid gas has escaped, and in order to restore the life and 
 sparkle which depends upon this gas, some young wort is added 
 before the beer is filled into the packages, or the beer is car- 
 bonated, that is, the fermentation gas is reincorporated with the 
 liquid under pressure. The beer is filtered before going into 
 the packages. Bottle beer goes through elaborate bottling ma- 
 chinery, and is usually pasteurized. 
 
 Some types of yeast, while working in the beer, rise to the 
 top and form a thick film, and are skimmed off" or allowed to 
 overrun. They are called top-fermenting. Other types settle 
 on the bottom when a certain degree of fermentation has been 
 reached. They are called bottom-fermenting. They produce 
 different tastes and aromas. American beers are prepared with 
 the bottom-fermenting yeast, except the ales, stouts and por- 
 ters, which, like all English beers, are prepared by top-fermenta- 
 tion. 
 
 All through these processes, infection by foreign germs is 
 carefully avoided. It has been said by a prominent food official 
 
that the only perfectly clean food factory is the brewery, and 
 beer an absolutely clean article of food. 
 
 The average composition of American beer is 5.29 per cent, 
 extract, consisting chiefly of sugar, dextrin, albumen and min- 
 eral substances, and .'5.82 per cent, by weight of alcohol, the rest 
 being water. This makes a content of about i) per cent, nutritive 
 matter. The solid content of milk runs ordinarily from 12 to 14 
 per cent. It is thus seen that beer possesses considerable nutri- 
 tive value. 
 
 It is chiefly as a food relish, however, that beer maintains 
 that great popularity, which in the year 1913 showed in the 
 consumption of 66,933,393 barrels. It is thoroughly understood 
 by physiological chemists — and while perhaps not .scientifically 
 understood by the people generally, carried out in practice — 
 that relishes are quite as important in the nutrition of man as 
 tho.se articles which supply the chemical constituents recjuired 
 for building tissue and supplying energy. It is not so important 
 irhat we eat as hoiv we eat. A meal enjoyed "sets" well. The 
 best meal taken without relish, will not benefit a man. Beer 
 supplies relish to the taste, and by the alcohol content stimulates 
 the mind and enhances the social pleasures of the meal. Therein 
 lies its chief virtue. By the moderate stimulation it afl'ords, it 
 gives to the .system the relief from the monotony of the work- 
 a-day world which every normal person craves, and, satisfying 
 it in a proper way, fore.stalLs excess. It is thus one of the most 
 effective agencies of temperance. 
 
 It would be unheard-of to conclude an article on beer with- 
 out saying .something of its history. Much has been written on 
 that subject, but it was never dealt with in a really thorough- 
 going manner until Mr. John P. Arnold, of Chicago, published 
 his book on the "Origin and History of P>eer and Brewing," 
 which was was gotten out in 1911 as a memorial of the twenty- 
 fifth anniversary of the founding of the Wahl Henius Institute 
 of Fermentology. A few passages from this monumental worlv 
 will shed a better light on the anti(iuity of beer in the history 
 of the human race and its intimate entwining with the customs 
 of i)i'iniitive society than could any other statement. Mr. Arnold 
 shows that the use of intoxicants was not only a \ery earl\- 
 practice, but most closely a.ssociated with religion. Ceremonial 
 dances, vapors of a narcotic character, and intoxicants of various 
 kinds were early employed to produce those states of spiritual 
 exaltation or self-hypnose which were believed to place man in 
 direct intercourse with deity. The following quotations are 
 from Mr. Arnold's book : 
 
 "Cerevisia (the Latin name for beer), to judge by its ety- 
 mological derivation and its history, stood originally for fer- 
 
mented 'wax' or 'honey-comb water,' and in a history of beer it 
 stands conspicuous as the most primitive form of fermented 
 liquor, manufactured by prehistoric man even before he cul- 
 tivated cereals, before he knew how to bake bread with the aid 
 of yeast, and before he understood how to brew beer out of 
 cereals or bread. '■'' * * 
 
 "Pliny has left us a Keltic expression for a species of cereal 
 which is of fundamental significance for the history of beer. 
 It is the word 'brace.' 'The Gauls,' he remarks XVIII, II, 'have 
 a kind of spelt peculiar to that country. They give it the name 
 (tf 'brace.' 
 
 "While this Keltic word, therefore, means above all a species 
 of cereals, spelt, or a variety of wheat, which because of its very 
 white flour was employed mainly for brewing beer, it came about 
 that this name for a cereal beca'me also the name for the inash 
 material, the malted 'brace,' or malt, but this malt, 'the soul of 
 beer,' as it has been termed by several writers, became the patent 
 name for a whole number of popular expressions, all of them 
 intimately connected with the jirocess of brewing, with the ac- 
 tivity of the brewer, and with the calling or profession of the 
 brewer. 
 
 "This Keltic 'brace' — so designated by Pliny — is: Irish for 
 malt: brae, brath, brach, genit, braich, or bracha, corresponding 
 with Welsh and t'ornish: brag, whence Welsh bragaud (a kind 
 of beer). Old English bragot (a kind of beer). Modern English 
 bracket (a kind of beer), and means in all Keltic tongues 'malt.' 
 
 "From this Keltic parent word are derived the Latinized 
 words of the early and later middle ages whereof we cite a few: 
 Bracium : crushed malt, mash materials; bracium pressum : 
 crushed malt, mash materials; brasina : malt mill; braceator, 
 braxator: the brewer; braxatorium, bracitorium : the brewery. 
 
 "And in modern French, 'brasser,' to brew ; 'bras.serie,' 
 brewery; 'brasseur,' brewer; 'brassin,' the brew; and 'brai,' 
 'bray,' 'brais' (Old French), malt, crushed malt. 
 
 "Derived from the Irish 'brach' and the Welsh 'brag,' 
 'bragio' sprout, we find a kind of aromatic and sweetened ale, the 
 'bracket,' or 'bragaut,' sweetened with honey. 'Rragget Sunday' 
 is Mid-Lent Sunday, when it was the custom to celebrate with 
 'bragget.' The Irish 'bruighfer' in olden times was a public 
 functionary, and at the same time public hospitaller. 
 
 " 'Braga,' 'bragga,' 'braka' are also beers of the Cossaks, 
 Tai'tars, Ruthenians, etc. 
 
 "The Keltic has the same root word for 'to brew' as the 
 Anglo-Saxon: breowan ; Old High (German: briuwan; Gothic: 
 briggwan; Old Norse: brugga; Middle High German: bruwan; 
 Modern English: to brew; Modern German: brauen. 
 
"In following up these traces, we meet with relationship 
 much more ancient than all these, namely with the Indo-Germanic 
 'bhru," whence too, the Phrygo-Thracian beer, 'bryton,' takes its 
 name. But more than that, according to the etymological au- 
 thorities, the root Tor brewing and bread is the same, about 
 which Prof. Fr. Kluge says: 'In lii'cad it would be wrap])ed 
 up in the si)ecial significance of "baking." ' Hence we again 
 call attention to the theory, several times promulgated by us in 
 this work, that brewing and baking went together in prehi.s- 
 toric times. Indeed, we go further than that. We claim that 
 the primary activity of baking, namely, the prepai'ation of the 
 bread, and tiie primary activity of brewing, namely, the prepara- 
 tion of the bread mash (dough mash), is really one and the same 
 The linguistic conception was the .same, in the al)original form of 
 the Indo-European tongue (says Klug) and we claimed that the 
 activity itself (i. e., that which is expre.ssed by the verb) is also 
 identical in brewing and baking. We do not mean to say, how- 
 ever, that brewing and baking — as one might be inclined to 
 suppo.se from the identity of the root 'bhru' — originated both 
 at the same time. Indeed, 'baking' is more ancient than 'brew- 
 ing,' and in this sense, too, the roasted or toasted dough-cake is 
 older than the liquor brewed out of this 'bread.' But just be- 
 cau.se 'to make a bread-ma.sh' is derived from 'to make bread,' 
 for this very same reason brewing is derived from 'bread-mak- 
 ing.' " 
 
 
 ^ 3ff''"^'^ 
 
A Bottle of 
 
 English Beer 
 
 By 
 
 H. J. FINLA Y 
 
 Of H. P. Finlay & Co. 
 
 New York 
 
 ^^rJ^^ XCELLENT in itself as Beer may be, it likewise 
 
 W^^ liHs a pedigree to be proud of. Credit is given 
 
 T^ for the invention of brewing to an ancient king 
 
 Z^^^0 of Egypt — Osiris by name. Be this as it nia.w 
 
 abundant rec(jrds of Beer are still found upon the 
 
 Great Pyramid — mostly, however, ;is "empties." 
 
 Both the Greeks and the Gauls liad a decided partiality Inr 
 Beer, which is mentioned by Socrates B. C. 420, as \\'ell as by 
 other ancient writers. Such facts lead us to speculate whether 
 the brewing of Beer may not be a natural instinct implanted 
 within the human breast. 
 
 Later on, brewers increased and multiplied, and became 
 great ones of the earth and mighty. Their lieer has always 
 jdayed an important, if unseen, part in Britisli history. Thus, 
 for instance, when England was like to become a Sijanish de- 
 pendency, the valiant Drake declared that he must be supj^lied 
 liberally with Beer, if he was to crush the Armada. He got it, 
 and he did it ! No more, however, need be said to prove the 
 antiquity and the worth of Malt Li(iuor. Like the equator, 
 therefore. Beer is not to be spoken of disi'espectfully. 
 
 The use of hops, which impart keeping properties to Beer, 
 was not discovered until the sixteenth century, if we are to be- 
 lieve the couplet: 
 
 "Hops, Reformation and Beer 
 Came into England all in one year." 
 
 Since then the three B's — Beef, Beer and the r>il)le — have 
 become established articles of faith in Britain. 
 
 The greatest brewing center in England, or, indeed, in the 
 world, is situated at Burton-on-Trent, where Messrs. Bass & Co. 
 stand conspicuous among an array of competitors. The pros- 
 perity of Burton-on-Trent of late years has been remarkable. 
 This is owing to the increasing jiojiular taste for a lighter bev- 
 erage than the potent strong Beers of the past generation, and 
 to the peculiar suitability of Burton water for the pi'oduction 
 of delicately-flavored Ales. 
 
IJurtun-on-Treiil lies in a basin ol' marl and fj^ypsum which 
 strongly impregnate the water collected in the brewery wells. 
 The water is, therefore, very "hard," and this, as we shall see, 
 is of great benefit. 
 
 Good water is indispensable to good brewing, but ab.solutely 
 pure water (oxide of hydrogen) is never met with in nature. 
 Its solvent properties are so great that it dissolves more or less 
 of most substances with which it comes in contact. The smallest 
 trace of organic matter renders it utterly unfit for brewing 
 purposes; no matter how bright and sparkling it may appear 
 to the eye, such water will not "keep," and therefore the Beer 
 which migiit he l)rewed from it would not keep either. 
 
 "Hard" water is suitable only for Ale, not for Stout. It is 
 this simple fact, and not mere caprice, which has singled out 
 Dublin as the more appropriate birthplace for Stout. 
 
 "Soft" water extracts more from the malt than is desired 
 by the brewers of Ale, while the hard Burton water has less 
 attinity for the albuminous principles contained in the malt. 
 Much in the same way when peas are boiled in soft water they 
 are reduced to pulp, but if boiled in hard water their outside 
 .skin is toughened, and they retain their individual shape. 
 
 It is frequently supposed that the water u.sed for brewing 
 at Burton is taken from the River Trent. This, of course, is a 
 mistake — It is drawn from wells. The demands made by brew- 
 ers upon these wells of late years have sometimes .severely taxed 
 their resources, and the si)ring water is now used only for con- 
 version into Ale. 
 
 But we must not linger o\er the crystal water, fresh from 
 its rock depths, for we have to \'isit the maltings. These great 
 detached buildings stretch in a long and uniform line as far as. 
 the eye can carry, and they are used exclusively for the purpose 
 of converting the barley into malt, which must be done ere it is 
 fit for brewing. 
 
 The grain be.st suited to brewing Beer is barley, and much 
 depends on the character of the -soil that grows it, as well as on 
 the dryness or wetne.ss of the .sea.son. 
 
 It is not every kind of barley that will make good malt, and 
 great is the care and zeal exercised at Burton to obtain the very 
 choicest and most suitable growths, no matter whether they be 
 from the United Kingdom or abroad. 
 
 The operation of malting is performed as follow\s: The 
 barley is first placed in shallow ci.sterns, where it is .steeped in 
 water, and afterwards spread out to the depth of a few inches 
 on large drying floors. 
 
 It (juickly gets warm of its own accord, and under the com- 
 bined inOuence of warmth and moisture it .soon begins to .sprout. 
 
when this lias jiroceeded a certain length it is dried by the kiln, 
 which, of course, stops further germination, and, wherein the 
 original insoluble starch of the grain has, by Nature's own 
 magic, been converted into soluble malt-sugar. 
 
 If dried at a low temperature it is "Pale Malt," from which 
 Pale Ale is brewed ; but if roasted at a greater heat it is partially 
 carbonized, and becomes "Brown Malt," suitable for brewing 
 Stout. 
 
 This is the only reason for the ditl'erence in color between 
 Ale and Stout. 
 
 The brewer crushes the malt between heavy rollers to break 
 the husk, and the malt-meal is then thoroughly mixed with 
 warm water in the mashtun by a ferocious instrument called a 
 "porcupine." The malt is finally e.xhausted by a huge overgrown 
 watering pot, tei-med a sparger. It has long revolving arms, 
 and as the water descends in a gentle shower it carries with it 
 what remains soluble in the malt, and the "grains" only, corre- 
 sponding with the tea-leaves in the pot, are left behind. The 
 resulting liquor, now called "wort," is then strained olf and 
 transferred into coppers, where it is boiled for several hours 
 with the hops. 
 
 After sufficient boiling the wort is rapidly cooled in refrig- 
 erators containing long coils of pipes, through which a stream 
 of cold water continually runs. 
 
 The cooled wort is still not a bit like Beer. Even a tee-totaler 
 might drink of this particularly nasty and mawkish fluid if he 
 could bring himself to do so, for thus far it contains no alcohol ; 
 this can be produced only by the agency of fermentation. 
 
 Fermentation is started by inoculating the wort with pure 
 yea.st. Yea.st is a vegetable organism, consisting of myriads of 
 microscopic cells or globules, which rapidly multiply in the 
 "wort" at the expense of certain of its constituents; and these 
 minute cells are endowed with the marvelous power of elab- 
 orating alcohol, or, in other words, of transforming the dull and 
 lifeless wort into sparkling Ale. 
 
 The newly-born Pale Ale is then racked into casks and 
 stored away in vast quantities that certainly look sufficient to 
 meet any demand, but which rapidly melt away as the thirsty 
 season comes on. 
 
 Beer reserved for export bottling is brewed from the choic- 
 est materials. It is, indeed, an altogether superior quality, and 
 is priced accordingly. 
 
Qalifornia 
 
 Wines 
 
 By 
 HORATIO F. STOLL 
 
 Sec'y Grape Growers' Ass'n 
 itf California 
 
 ^^^^^^^ ]''or forty years our ji:ood, sound, California 
 
 ^^^H^^^ hulk wines have been winning their way in the 
 
 ^^^^^Cm ^reat markets of the world. But until the Pui'e 
 
 ^^^^^^B|v l''ood Law put a stop to the practice a few years 
 
 ^^H^^Pf ago, a large quantity of our choice wines were bot- 
 
 ^^B^^ tied in Eastern cellars by unscrupulous dealers and, 
 
 under the label of some famous chateau, were sold at fancy 
 
 prices purely through the potency of the false crest. 
 
 Within the past fifteen years, however, the winemakers of 
 California have begun to bottle their own wines and introduce 
 them under their own bi'ands, and desjjite the man.v obstacles 
 they have had to overcome, their success has been remarkable. 
 Public prejudice in favor of the foreign article, the difficulty of 
 securing avenues of disti'ibution. the jjrohibition movement which 
 has wiped out markets almost o\i'rniglil. and the ditliculty of 
 finding suitable names to make their cased goods known, have 
 all retarded their i)rogress, but the struggle in the long run has 
 been jirolitabk' and thoroughly worih whde. 
 
 Our hard-earned success is not a matter of chance. (Jod 
 Almighty fa\()i'ed this State with the right climate and the 
 proper soil and our winemakers have supplemented these en- 
 dowments with the choicest varieties of grai)es, the best skill 
 and the most intelligent labor in the world. It, therefore, .stands 
 to rea.son that we can and now do i)roduce wines which in purity 
 and quality are in every way equal to the imi)orted brands. 
 
 The counties of California which grow grapes that produce 
 wines analagous to the Claret, Cabernet, Chablis, Chianti, Ries- 
 ling and Sauterne types are all contiguous to the Bay of San 
 Francisco, where by rea.son of the influence of the .sea fogs the 
 temperature is modified and the grapes ripen at a point of sugar 
 and acidity suitable for the advantageous fermentation of choice 
 dry wines. They include Mendocino, Sonoma, Lake, Napa, So- 
 lano, Alameda, Contra Costa, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, and San 
 Benito Counties. 
 
 The sections producing Port, Sherry. Madeira, Angelica 
 and other sweet wines are in the interioi-. where the climatic 
 conditions and soil are such that the grapes rijjen at a compara- 
 
tively higli sugar and low acid point. 'I'lie princiiial counties 
 are Yolo, Sacramento, San Joaquin, Madera, Fresno, Kings, 
 Tulare, covering the great Sacramento and San .loaquin Val- 
 leys, and Sail liernardino County. 
 
 As compared with the immense output of France and Italy, 
 our annual production of about 45,OO0,(K)O gallons is small, but 
 it must not be forgotten that it has taken those two European 
 countries nearly 2,000 years to plant their extensive vineyards 
 and create a world-wide market for their wines. Pliny, who is 
 so rich in precious information on the agricultural and social 
 advances in Italy, tells us that Italy opened her hills and plains 
 to the triumphal entrance to the god Dionysus about 120 years 
 B. C, and the cultivation of the grape has gone on uninterrui^ted- 
 ly ever since. Every generation has jioured forth new cai)ital 
 to enlarge its inheritance of vineyards. 
 
 The vine was introduced into France by the conquering 
 Roman legions and practically the same conditions as in Italy 
 prevail there, only that a small area of the north of France does 
 not produce grapes, while in Italy there is practicallx' no section 
 where grapes are not grown and wine made. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine in Germany, whicli covers a 
 comparatively small acreage when compared with Italy and 
 France, ccjmmenced after the death of the Roman Emperor. 
 Marcus Aurelius Probus. He reigned from 27G to 282 A. I)., 
 and directed much of his attention to clearing Gaul of the Ger- 
 mans. For over eighteen centuries, therefore, the Germans have 
 also been cultivating their hillside \'ineyards and winning fame 
 with their fine white wines. 
 
 The viticultural industry in California, on the othej- hand, 
 is really only half a century old, although the Franciscan Fathers 
 planted the grapevine in California shortly after their arrival 
 at San Diego, in 17()!). As the other missions were established, 
 small tracts were planted close around their houses of worshi}). 
 The Padres guarded them jealously with high adobe walls, culti- 
 vated the x'ines carefully, gathered their fruit, and made wine, 
 which was used in their religious ceremonies, or consumed by 
 the good Fathers, their occasional visitors and their immediate 
 retainers. 
 
 Soon after the cession of California to the United States, 
 some of the new settlers, .seeing the fertility of the Mission 
 grape, conceived the idea of abandoning gold hunting and en- 
 gaging in the business of winemaking. Coar.se, heavy wines 
 were made from the Mission grapes and when they were tasted 
 by discriminating wine drinkers, it was predicted that California 
 would never be able to turn out Wine that would be acceptable to 
 people used to the foreign brands. 
 
But time has pi-oved tliat they were mistaken, for as soon 
 as it became evident that the European varieties of grapes would 
 thrive in California and produce wines similar to the foreign 
 types the Mission vines were uprooted and today the extent of 
 these grapes probably does not total more than a couple of thou- 
 sand aci-es, of the 160,000 acres we have in wine grapes alone. 
 
 However, but little advance was made toward increasing 
 the area of viticulture until 1859, when, through the publication 
 of vine articles in the reports of the State Agricultural Society, 
 and in the newspapers, a general and widespread interest mani- 
 fested itself in vine i)lanting and the area of our vineyards be- 
 came greatly increased. A large proportion, however, of these 
 new plantations consisted of table grape producing vines. 
 
 In the early sixties our State Legislature sent a commission 
 abroad to secure the finest varieties of grapes in Europe and 
 Asia. This resulted in planting better varieties for the table, 
 for the winepress and for raisin curing. But it was not until 
 about 1880 that the foreign varieties of grapes were set out ex- 
 tensively, for up to that time there were only a limited few who 
 believed that any grapes could be as good as the old Mission va- 
 riety. 
 
 Through the persistent efforts of a few enterprising viti- 
 culturists, .small quantities of wine were produced from imported 
 varieties, whose character showed such superiority over those 
 made from the Mission, that new faith in the future of Cali- 
 fornia wines was born, and the belief si)read that under proper 
 conditions, our State might some da.\- make wine of a superior 
 grade, and eventually rival some of the better wines of European 
 countries. 
 
 After fifty years of patient, costly experimental work and 
 the expenditures of vast sums in repairing the ravages of the 
 phylloxera and Anaheim diseases, the great goal has been reached 
 and today California wines are considered the equal of tho.se 
 produced in France, Italy and Germany. Even abroad they ad- 
 mit this, for at the International Exposition, at Turin, Italy, 
 in 1911, a new brand of California champagne received the 
 "grand prix," the highest award which the exacting jury could 
 confer. 
 
 Another proof of the superiority of American wines is the 
 test they .stood at the St. Louis World's Exposition in 1903, when 
 they were placed in competition with the best of every great 
 grape-growing and wine-producing nation in the world. Out of 
 thirty-odd entries of wines, California alone was awarded three 
 grand prizes and nineteen gold medals. In proportion to our 
 entries, California received more prizes for its wines, brandies, 
 vermouth and champagne than any other exhibitor at home or 
 
abroad. The wine jury was comprised of twent.y-one members, 
 of which seventeen were foreigners. The latter included seven 
 experts from France, four from Germany, and some from Italy, 
 Chili, Japan and Canada. The distinguished jury, as competent 
 and impartial, perhaps, as the world could supply, acknowledged 
 the merits of our wines and rewarded our winemakers accord- 
 ingly. The importance of their decision may be understood when 
 it is realized that it took ninety-five points to win a grand prize, 
 and to secure a gold medal, the product had to score an average 
 of ninety points. 
 
 At expositions in the great wine-producing centers of Eu- 
 rope, we have also been able to win recognition. Gold medals 
 were awarded California wines at Paris, France, in 1899; at 
 Genoa, Italy, in 1892; at Lyons, France, 1894; at Bordeaux, 
 France, in 189.5; and at the Paris World's Exposition, in 1900, 
 when our wines carried off four gold medals, nine silver medals 
 and nine bronze medals, notwithstanding that the choicest quali- 
 
 ties were not permi 
 
 tted t 
 
 compete for prizes, because, as the 
 
 Frenchmen claimed. 
 
 the 
 
 label 
 
 s bore the names of French dis- 
 
 tricts, such as Calif 
 
 arnia 
 
 Burgundy, Sauterne, etc. 
 
 California has profited by 
 
 the experience and knowledge of 
 
 every wine nation o 
 
 f the 
 
 WOl" 
 
 d and today the following varie- 
 
 ties of grapes are us 
 
 ed in 
 
 the 
 
 making of our wines: 
 
 
 FOR RED WINES. 
 
 Aleatico 
 
 
 
 Grand Noir de la Calmette 
 
 Alicante Bouschet 
 
 
 
 Grenache 
 
 Aramon 
 
 
 
 Mataro 
 
 Barbera 
 
 
 
 Malbec 
 
 Beclan 
 
 
 
 Merlot 
 
 Bonarda 
 
 
 
 Meunier 
 
 Cabernet Franc 
 
 
 
 Mondeuse 
 
 Cabernet Sauvignon 
 
 
 
 Mourastel 
 
 Canajola 
 
 
 
 Nebiolo 
 
 Carignan 
 
 
 
 Petite Bouschet 
 
 Charbono 
 
 
 
 Petite Syrrah 
 
 Chauche Noir 
 
 
 
 Pineau Noir 
 
 Chianti 
 
 
 
 San Giovese 
 
 Cin-saut 
 
 
 
 St. Macaire 
 
 Franc Pineau 
 
 
 
 Verdot 
 
 Freisa 
 
 
 
 Zinfandel 
 
 Camay 
 
 
 
 
Burger 
 Chasselas 
 Colombar 
 Folle Blanche 
 Franken Riesling 
 CJray Riesling 
 (]i-een Hungarian 
 Gutedel 
 
 FOR WillTF WINES. 
 
 Joliannisberg Riesling 
 Muscadelle de Bordelais 
 Petite Pineau 
 Sauvignon Vert 
 Sauvignon Blanc 
 Semi Hon 
 Traminer 
 Verdal 
 
 FOR SWEET WINES. 
 
 Burger 
 
 Carignan 
 
 Cataratto 
 
 Feher Zagos 
 
 Folle Blanche 
 
 l'\irmint 
 
 Jusoglia 
 
 Malvoisie 
 
 Mataro 
 
 Malaga 
 
 Mission 
 
 Mourisco 
 
 Muscat of various varieties 
 
 Pedro Ximenes 
 
 Palomino 
 
 Trousseau 
 
 Tokay 
 
 Sultana 
 
 Verdelho 
 
 Zinfandcl 
 
 There are two distinctive varieties of wine produced in 
 CiiliCornia that have won considerable popularity throughout 
 the land. One is Zinfandel, a claret type, made from the Zin- 
 fandel grape, which is supposed to be of Hungarian origin, but 
 on account of the carele.ss marking of the cuttings when they 
 were first imported into California its actual derivation is un- 
 certain. It is a grape that bears very abundantly, the berries 
 being small and very closely packed together, and produces an 
 agreeable light table wine, soft and smooth. 
 
 The other wine to which I refer is, Angelica, a favorite 
 with women. In reality, it is not a wine at all, — considering that 
 "wine is the fermented juice of the grape" — as it is made by 
 mixing about one-third (some manufacturers use less) brandy 
 with two-thirds grape juice fresh from the press. 
 
j\ Short History 
 
 of Champagne 
 
 By 
 
 MM. HOMMEL 
 
 Of Hummel Wine Co. 
 
 Sandusky, (). 
 
 As Champagne is without doubt the king- of all 
 beverages de luxe, it is very appropriate to give in 
 the columns of "Beverages de Luxe" a short but 
 authentic history of its origin and the process of jn-o- 
 ducing the sinirkling wine. 
 
 It originated in France in the small Department 
 de La Champagne, hence its name, which has long since become 
 a generic name and used everywhere that human brain and in- 
 genuity has penetrated. The first wines made in the Depart- 
 ment de La Champagne of France were still wines, and their 
 first production and introduction of the vines are lost in the 
 midst of antiquity, as the wines of Southern France were cele- 
 brated even beff)re the Christian Era, many centuries before 
 wiiies were ever made in the province of Champagne. 
 
 The date of the first growing of grapes in Champagne was 
 about 282 A. D., and their growth and production of wine in- 
 creased in spite of hardship, ignorance, fire and warfare to 
 great proportions, until about the sixteenth century. The in- 
 dustry then being so important, a more careful study was made 
 thereof, and the producers and makers began to notice a natural 
 tendency of the wines of Champagne to effervesce; in fact, it 
 was difficult to overcome this fact and avoid losing some entire- 
 ly ; but it remained for Dom Perignon, a Benedictine Monk, 
 whether by accident or diligent study, to really discover the 
 ]n-ocess of producing sparkling wine. This was in 1670 at Haut- 
 villers. He also contrived the idea of marrying or blending 
 wines of various sections and qualities in order to make a first- 
 class cuvee, or blend. 
 
 It was also Perignon who originated the flute, at that time 
 the proper glass to drink it from, in order, as he said, "To watch 
 the dance of the sparkling atoms." Now we have the more ap- 
 propriate low, hollow-stemmed Champagne glass. , 
 
 The reputation was soon established, and the demand for 
 the sparkling class of wines of the Champagne increased by 
 leaps and bounds; and as the production of the sparkling wines 
 was limited entirely to the province of Champagne, and the de- 
 mand spread all over Europe and the civilized world, the still 
 
wines became practically obsolete, and any wines cominp from 
 there were generally supposed to be sparkling. Cradiially, 
 however, other provinces and countries began to produce spark- 
 ling wines, and became known to everybody as Champagne, 
 whether made in Bordeaux or Borgougne province, or America, 
 Germany, Italy or Austria. 
 
 At the same time, the original houses were growing in size 
 rapidly and continuously, and their capacities grew until now 
 some of the large hou.ses of France have stocks of 11^,000,000 
 bottles. Thirteen millions is easily said, but when one stops to 
 realizt' what enormous space 1,000,000 bottles will retjuire, and 
 then multiply it by thirteen, .same .seems almost an absurdity, 
 especially when the elaborate process and long time it re(iuires 
 is taken into consideration. 
 
 We have also cellars in America with capacities of from 
 500,000 to 2,000,(100, all made on the same process, and with the 
 same elaborate care. None but the choicest of grapes are used, 
 and only from .selected locations. When the vintage season 
 arrives they are hauled to the winery, where they are pressed 
 and the juice run off into large casks to ferment. So far the 
 process has been very simple, but now the Chamiiagne expert 
 gets in his work and intelligence, blending the various juices, so 
 as to make one cuvee, or homogeneous mass, perfect in taste, 
 color, acidity and bouquet. After the cuvee is made it is ready 
 for bottling, where the second fermentation takes place. When 
 fermented they are lowered into the cellars to cool off and ri])en. 
 
 The ripening period usually takes two and one-half to three 
 years, after which time the now Champagne can be put on the 
 market if necessary, but the first-class cellars rarely attempt to 
 put their brands out before four or five years. When the wine is 
 bottle ripe it is put on tables "surpointe;" that is, the bottles 
 are all neck down. After it has repo.sed on the tables for twenty- 
 four hours the "remeuer" i)roceeds with his daily <)])eration of 
 iiandling each bottle by giving it a rotary shake for two to six 
 weeks, at the end of which lime the wine is sui)pos('d to be 
 crystal clear, the sediment formed by fermentation having been 
 worked down to the cork. 
 
 The next operation is the disgorging or taking out the sedi- 
 ment. This is done neatly, easily, and with little lo.ss of wine 
 or sparkle by experienced men, and the syrup is then added. 
 Before adding any .syrup the wine is tart and is called "Brut," 
 meaning raw. The amount of .syrup added usually designates 
 the grade thereof, under the names Sweet, Medium, Extra Dry 
 or Special Dry, etc. The bottle is then recorked with a new and 
 expensive finishing cork, which is fastened down by means of a 
 jjronged wire, and the bottle is then ready for the packing room, 
 
where it is again piled up for a weeiv or so to repose and 
 assimilate. 
 
 When needed for market, each bottle is examined with 
 candle light, same as candling eggs, to separate the defective 
 bottles. The defective bottles are those from which the sedi- 
 ment has not comjjletely disappeared, or with pieces of cork, 
 etc. After this process the bottles are ready to be dressed up 
 for market with a fancy cap or foil, handsome labels, and 
 wraj^ped in neat tissue paper, to be cased up in cases of twelve 
 l)ottles or twenty-four half bottles, and usually sell at $12.00 
 and $14.00 per case, up to $22.00 and $24.00 per case. One Ohio 
 firm commands the ])rice of $22.00 and $24.00 per case for one 
 of their brands, and $14.00 and $1(5.00 for another. 
 
 American Champagnes or sparkling wines are coming to 
 the front very rapidly, owing to many reasons, viz: American 
 push and enterprise; the American article has a natural bou- 
 ciuet of its own, given it by the grape, and not added as in the 
 imported article; the efferve.scense is superior, and the methods 
 used are identical; and last, but not lea.st, the difference in price 
 at which the two articles are sold. The imported article costs 
 no more to produce than the home product, but with $9.60 duty 
 added, $2.00 consular fees, $1.00 transportation, and $10.00 at 
 least added by the lavish way in which they are boomed, plus 
 the original cost of $9.00 per case for twenty-four half bottles, 
 and the amount of $31.60 is completed, about the average cost 
 of the imported article. 
 
 The above short perusal on the production of Champagne 
 covers it in general, but the fact must not be overlooked that the 
 real work occuiiies a space of time of two and one-half to three 
 years, and each bottle is handled from 160 to 240 times, and 
 has been under the diligent care of careful supervision contin- 
 ually; and the easiest and most pleasing operation is the last, 
 that of popping the cork to the ceiling, and toasting all your 
 friends to a long life and a merry one. 
 
'rhe Wines 
 
 of France 
 
 # 
 
 PUODUCINC some 2,000 dillercnt varieties of wine, 
 the most noted I'.randy distilled from wine, and 
 \arious lii|iu'urs based on wine, i-'rance stands 
 to day foremost amony the nations as a wine 
 country. Its vineyards are innumerable. 
 It has not attained this i)oinl of supremacy so easily, how- 
 ever, as the story of the vine in France i)ictures many dillicul- 
 ties and hardships, the vineyardists struggling against all man- 
 ner of discouragement. In fact, throughout the entire history 
 of this country, the story of wine-making is clo.sely interwoven, 
 and, at some of the most critical times in its history, the part 
 played by the vine was important. Vt't, strange to say, the vine 
 was not native to France, but according to best authority, was 
 introduced there during the sixth century, B. C. It was with 
 the advent of the Christian Church, however, that the planting 
 of vineyards became universal in France, and its more glorious 
 history then began. Indeed, the monks are largely responsible 
 for the popularity of wine drinking, making and .selling it them- 
 selves, and have given to the world some of tlu' more popular 
 varieties. 
 
 But, to-day, the position of I'"rance as a wine-making coun- 
 try is unquestioned, and this is one of the country's most im- 
 portant Industries, and is so recognized to such an extent that 
 the Government has become paternalistic in regard to it. For 
 example, a law adopted December 17. 1908, established the 
 boundaries of the region fi'om whose grapes the wine in'odiiced 
 is alone permitted to be called ('hami)agne. 
 
 The soil of F'rance is varied in the dill'erent sections, which 
 are known as "departments," and in each of these dei)artments 
 wines of entirely dilferent character are jiroduced. Those which 
 are most generally and fa\orabl\- known are Champagne, Sau- 
 ternes. Clarets, and Burgundies. As other articles in this book 
 are devoted to Champagne, Sauternes, and Clarets, it is un 
 necessary to dwell upon them at length here. The story of 
 Champagne, however, bears out what has been said about the 
 important part played by the Church in developing the making 
 of wine in France, as it was a Benedictine Monk who invented 
 Champagne, termed by the French "\'in Mousseux." There are 
 
five arrondissementa of tlie Department of Champagne, where 
 Champagne grapes are grown : Chalons sur Marne, Eperney, 
 Rheims, Sainte-Mene Hould and Vitry-le-Francois, but the right 
 to the name of genuine French Champagne is now limited to 
 the wine made from the grapes of Rheims and Eperney. 
 
 In general parlance, when the wine of the Champagne dis- 
 trict is referred to, the sparkling wine is meant, yet, in this 
 same district, still wines are made that are claimed by some to 
 be the best in France. At one time there was quite a contro- 
 ver.sy as to whether the still wines fi m Champagne or Bur- 
 gundy wines were the better. Of the red wines grown at 
 Rheims, the two finest are the Rilly and Bouzy. 
 
 The Sauterne district comprises a portion of the Depart- 
 ment of Gironde and jiart of the Medoc, and is called in France 
 the Graves. The soil here consists of .sand and gravel, mixed 
 with more or less clay, so that one would hardly expect to have 
 such luxuriant vines as produce the popular Sauterne wines. 
 It is from another part of the Gironde, where, likewise, the soil 
 would appear to be almost worthless, that the Medoc wines, or 
 Clarets, as we know them, are produced. 
 
 The most famous red wines of France ai'e those from the 
 Burgundy district, and known by this name. The vines are 
 grown on the Cote d' Or, which is a chain of hills averaging 
 from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. For thirty miles the vineyards 
 extend in one continuous row on the sides of these hills. The 
 soil is of yellowish red, accounting for the name of the district, 
 and Burgundy is probably the oldest wine-producing district in 
 entire Europe. One authority gives his views of the best Bur- 
 gundy wine in the following language : "In richness of flavor, 
 and in perfume, and all the more delicate qualities of the grape, 
 they unquestionably rank as the finest in the world." 
 
 The Department of the Pyrenees Orientales is another 
 where vineyards in full leaf and all their beauty may be seen 
 stretching out mile after mile, both on the level land and on the 
 hillsides. Here, the very drie.st and, likewise, the sweetest of 
 wines are made in the same neighborhood. The dry wine, 
 known as Grenache wine, which, through a peculiar process of 
 manufacture, partakes more of the nature of a liqueur, is laid 
 away in cellars for many years before it is said to be really fit 
 for use. From the same neighborhood comes Muscat wine, 
 which is very sweet, and for the first year is like a syrup, Init, 
 after the second year, becomes clear and acquires the bouquet 
 which has given it its reputation. Maccabeo and Malvoysie are 
 two more liqueur wines made in this vicinity, and a large num- 
 ber of other wines, also grown in this department, are classified 
 under the name of Rousillion wines. 
 
 According to an old narrative, on the left border of the 
 Rhone, in the commune of Tain, one of the Queen's courtiers, 
 
in the year 1225, wishing to leave court life, built himself a 
 retreat on an isolated hill. It became known as his hermitage, 
 and he experimented with wine-making there with great suc- 
 cess. This is where the world was given the wines that have 
 since become celebrated as the Hermitage wines. The vine- 
 yards, though small, produce wines of such rare excellence that 
 their fame has spread wherever wine is drunk. Both red and 
 white wines are made here, but the white wine is the be.st and 
 the one that has ac(iuired fame. 
 
 The wines .specifically mentioned above constitute the 
 classes of the best known of the many different kinds that ai'e 
 |)r(i(luced in France, but. as already stated, other beverages 
 made from wine have added to the greatness of the industry in 
 this country. In the year I'.WA, the art of distillation was in 
 troduced in France, and, being especially adojited in the Cham- 
 pagne district, re.sulted in the i)r()(luction of wine Brandy, which 
 has become more known under the term of Cognac. This name 
 was applied because most of the Brandy was distilled in the 
 city of Cognac, in the Heijartment of Charente, but, contrary 
 to .some pojudar belief, Cognac Itrandy is not distilled from 
 the sparkling wine known as Champagne, but is made from 
 the wines produced in the Champagne district. 
 
 Litpieurs and ('ordials are made from wines distilled or 
 blended with various herbs and plants. Here, again, the monks 
 were the originators, and to them the world is indebted for the 
 I)roduction of tho.se Cordials that are to-day .so popular, and 
 whose manufacture has developed into a large industry. The 
 art of making the different Liqueurs was closely guarded in the 
 cloisters where they were originally made, and the processes 
 have always been regarded as a valuable secret, as for each Cor- 
 dial different roots and herbs are required, and there must be a 
 minute knowledge of the preparation of them, the right cpian- 
 tities to u.se, and the proper methods of distillation. The e.xact 
 proce.s.ses were kept within the bounds of the cloisters, and only 
 made known to the new recruits among the monks, themselves. 
 This was the history of that most famous of French Liqueurs, 
 Chartruese, which was originally made by the Carthusian 
 Monks in their monastery near Grenoble. But, during the re- 
 cent troubles of the monks, when they were ordered out of 
 France, they sold their secret for an immense sum, and the 
 Liqueurs such as they manufactured are now being made by a 
 private com])any in France, although recently the monks have 
 denied their right to the use of the name Chartruese. But 
 withal, with the advance of .science and chemi.stry, most of the 
 secrets of the monks in the distillation of various Litiueurs have 
 become known, and these delightful beverages are now being 
 manufactured equally as well by regular business concerns. 
 
Sauternes 
 
 By 
 
 ALBERT M. HIRSCHFELD 
 
 New York 
 
 ©The Wliite Wines of P" ranee are known under 
 the name of "Sauternes," and are grown in the De- 
 I i)artment of the (Jironde. 
 ' The vineyards are situated chiefly on the left 
 bank of the River (iaronne. some miles south of the 
 city of Bordeaux, from whence these wines are ex- 
 ported to all parts of the world. 
 
 The favorable situation of the vineyards, which are exposed 
 to the direct rays of the sun, cause the grapes to grow to a high 
 degree of maturity ; and, besides this advantage, the soil is 
 peculiarly suited, it being composed partly of white clay and of 
 a generally sandy nature. 
 
 Besides these natural advantages, great care is exercised 
 in the cultivation of the vine plants and the manner of vintag- 
 ing, which, in its method, is peculiar to this district. 
 
 Some of the principal towns around which the best speci- 
 mens of wines are obtained, and from which they derive their 
 distinctive names, are: Cerons, Barsac, Fargues, Preignac, 
 Sauterne, Bommes, etc.; also around the Chateaux of Yquem, 
 Vigneau, Suduiraut, La Tour Blanche, Rabaud, La Passonne 
 Cadillac, Grand Perrot, St. Croix du Mont, Chateau Ferrand, 
 etc. The wines grown around these Chateaux are considered 
 the finest specimens of /;///// -c/a.s'.s' Saiitei-ne.'^. 
 
 The proprietors of these Chateaux bottle the finer qualities 
 of good vintages in their own cellars and affix theii- own labels 
 and coat-of-arms, and thus as "Chateaux Bottled Wines" give 
 a degree of authenticity and of undoubted (luality, which com- 
 mand high prices in every market. 
 
 It is doubtless due to the hilly situation of the vineyards 
 and the care bestowed on their cultivation that the grapes from 
 which Sauternes are made are superior to many others; the 
 care, also, with which they are gathered and pressed gives the 
 peculiar excellence, both in flavor and aroma, for which these 
 wines are famous. 
 
 The grapes are allowed to "over-ripen," and the bunches 
 form a kind of "fermentation fungus," and to this is ascribed 
 the peculiar and delicious bouquet, and the exquisite bright 
 golden color of the wine. 
 
Much time and money is thus expended on the vintapinp 
 of the grapes, as every bunch has to be carefully examined, and 
 unless it is found perfect in every respect, it is not used for the 
 finer qualities. 
 
 It has been cumi)uted that the average expense ol' cultiva- 
 tion is from 250 to ,'500 francs per hundred (twenty-four dozen), 
 it cannot, therefore, be wondered at that genuine Sauternes 
 cannot be obtained as cheaply as some of the Red Wines of 
 France. 
 
 In classifying Sauternes, it is undoubtedly a fact that the 
 wines of the Chateau d'Yquem, Chateau La Tour Blanche, Cha- 
 teau Vigneau, Chateau Rabaud, and Chateau Suduiraut take 
 the foremost rank, and, next to these in the order given, come 
 the Haut Sauternes, Sauternes, Barsac and Craves. 
 
 All Sauternes are sweet or sweetish in character, but tlu' 
 excess of sweetness disappears considerably with a few years of 
 "bottle age." 
 
 As "table wines," Sauternes are eminently suitable. They 
 are delicate in flavor and stimulate the appetite. In alcoholic 
 strength they are far below Sherries, but they are, neverthele.ss, 
 exhilarating and sustaining. 
 
 They are especially suitable to be served with oysters and 
 fish. 
 
 In order to ])reserve their full aroma, Sauternes, and es- 
 pecially the finer ciualities, should not be "iced;" a medium 
 temperature will be sufficient to preserve all their character- 
 istics. 
 
 As "dessert wines" they are simply perfect. A glass or two 
 of high-class "vintage" Sauterne at the end of a meal will not 
 only aid digestion, but will warm the whole .system and diffuse 
 a feeling of lightness and of comfort. 
 
 From a medicinal standpoint, the white wines of France 
 rank foremost. For dyspepsia they are invaluable. White 
 wines contain less tannin, tartrates and iron than I'ed wines, 
 but more acetic ether. Whilst containing the .same quantity of 
 alcohol as the red wines, their action is more "heady" and more 
 exhilarating. 
 
 For obesity, especially, and affections of the liver, they are 
 most emphatically efficacious. 
 
 The sweeter Sauternes, Chateau La Tour Blanche, Yquem, 
 Rabaud, Vigneau, etc., possessing a greater alcoholic strength, 
 will be found most beneficial in cases of exhaustion, nervous 
 prostration, hemorrhage, and in all cases of mental or bodily 
 fatigue. 
 
 As des.sert wines they are not only delicious, but they 
 greatly aid the digestion and impart a cheerful glow to the 
 system. 
 
For further medical evidence regarding Sautenies, I quote 
 Dr. Mauriac, of Bordeaux. He say.s in one of his works: 
 
 "The great Sauternes white wines, which are of a rela- 
 tively high alcoholic strength, are both tonic and stimulating; 
 consumed moderately, they are invaluable to convalescents after 
 a severe illness, or when it is necessary to revive an organism 
 extenuated by high fever, hemorrhage, or long fatigue. They 
 are perfect as dessert wines, and one or two glasses at the end 
 of a meal facilitate digestion and i)rovoke gaiety." 
 
 In short, as a French i)oet has it : 
 
 "Un rayon de soleil concentre dans un verre." 
 Or, "A concentrated ray of sunshine in a wine glass." 
 
Qlarets 
 
 By 
 
 H. GRUENEBAUM 
 
 Of Sonn Bros. Co. 
 
 .Xfw York 
 
 The poets of all generations have eulogized the 
 clarets of the (lironde; even Aiisone, the famous 
 poet of the fourtii ccnturx-, has idolized them in his 
 lioems. 
 
 The clarets ol' (lascognc, amongst which the 
 ^'^-xl^^ clarets of Bordeaux occupied a pnimimiit place, en- 
 joyed, in the year i;>02, a firm rejiutalion in the London markets. 
 
 Although, in the middle of the sixteenth century, the con- 
 sumption of the clarets derived from Spain and Portugal in- 
 creased to an alarming degree in the London market, yet it was 
 im])ossible to dethrone the French clarets, which, through their 
 ex(iuisite taste, quality and boufiuct, maintained their superi- 
 ority above all others, and gradually obtained a world-wide 
 reputation. A prominent Ambassador of I'rance, siteaking of 
 the coining of English sovereigns in London, at that time stated 
 that most of this precious metal would find its way into France 
 through the enormous sales of French clarets from Gascogne; 
 and we find in a manuscript given out by the Mercantile Asso- 
 ciation of Bordeaux in the year 1730, that the clarets shipped 
 from Bordeaux annually attained the stupendous figure of 
 70,0(10 tons, princii)ally sold to Kngland, Holland, Sweden, Den- 
 mark and Amei'ica. 
 
 The production of clarets in France increa.sed to such an 
 alarming degree that the venerable Minister Montesquieu in- 
 duced the farmers to destroy their \ini's and turn o\ cr their 
 fields to the ])roduction of wheat or other cereals. In 17S7 the 
 Bureau of Commerce in Bordeaux published thiit the annual 
 average crops of claret of Gironde attained tlie enormous figure 
 of 200,000 tons, valued at the exor1)itant amount of .")! 0.000.000 
 francs. 
 
 Similar to the soil of Havana, particularly adajited to the 
 growing of tobacco, the same can be ai)plied to the l)e])artment 
 of (iironde, known under the name of ("larets of Bordeaux. 
 
 This territory, comprising about L000,000 acres, produces 
 the famous St. Estephe, St. Emilion, St. Julien, Pauillac, Sau- 
 vignon, and the white wines Le Sauvignon, Le Semilion and 
 Vigneau. 
 
Among the most known brands, let us not forget Chateau 
 Margaux, Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Mouton, and many 
 others which have attained a world-wide reputation; and last, 
 but not least, the Chateau Yquem, king of all white wines. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fact that the wine producers and 
 prominent chemists in California have done their utmost to 
 imitate as nearly as possible the French clarets, it has been of 
 no avail. Therefore, the French clarets will always stand at 
 the zenith of fame, glory and reputation, from whence no com- 
 petition will ever dethrone them. 
 
Sherry 
 
 
 By 
 
 CEO. C. HOWELL 
 
 Of Samuel Sireit Co. 
 
 New York 
 
 f^^ Vinos de Jerez (Xerez old -style), Jerez wine, 
 
 ^^^ pronounced Hehreth, was found impossible to the 
 HH| early Enprlish tongue, and was corrupted to Sherris, 
 SSH afterwards Sherry, and is now known as Sherry 
 ^ ^ vvine. 
 ^^j^^j^ Nowhere t'lse can Sherry be ))i-oduce(l but in the 
 
 white chalky soil of the hills, in a triangular district, marked by 
 the cities of Jerez, Port St. Mary's, and Sanlucar, province of 
 Cadiz, South Spain. Here it has been grown for centuries, al- 
 though, as happened in the Bordeau.x and in other districts, 
 the vineyards of the Jerez di.strict were almost entirely de- 
 stroyed by Phyloxera, they have been rei)lanted to a great ex- 
 tent, and are again producing exactly the same wine. When the 
 vines were destroyed, the vineyard proprietors were confronted 
 with a very grave situation; I'eplanting was an expensive ojjcra- 
 tion; .stocks had to be .secured who.se roots would withstand the 
 attack of Phyloxera, and grafts from the old vines employed. 
 It was a (juestion whether the same wine would be produced. 
 This has been settled .satisfactorily, but only a portion of the 
 vineyards, less than one-half, have been replanted ; so that, 
 where the hills ten years ago were covered with a mantle of 
 green, now more than half api)ears glistening white in the hot 
 sunshine. 
 
 Some thirty years ago the old Spanish family of Sancho, 
 proprietors for many years of the celebrated \'ineyard El 
 t'aribe, which produces Amontillado Don Quixote, sent by re- 
 quest to California cuttings from their best and most vigorous 
 vines; these were grafted, and the result was in every case a 
 beautiful vine, but in no ca.se was the wine similar in any way 
 to Sherry. This experiment, with the more recent one of re- 
 planting in Spain, goes to prove that it is soil and climate more 
 than anything else which is responsible for the peculiar llavor 
 and bouquet of wines from certain districts, which makes their 
 superiority and renown. 
 
 There is no .secret process, nor, as is the comuKMi belief, is 
 Sherry made in a different way from that employed in making 
 other wines. After the grapes are ])ressed at the vineyard 
 
house the juice (Mosto) is pumped into large casks, which are 
 carried on bullock carts, generally at night, to the Bodegas 
 (large stone overground cellars) at Jerez de la Frontera, Port 
 St. Mary, or Sanlucar. Here the Mosto goes through the pro- 
 cess of fermentation, where the saccharine matter is changed 
 to alcohol and carbonic acid gas, the latter going free, while the 
 alcoholic strength increases in the Mosto, until it reaches the 
 point where it kills further fermentation, leaving some sac- 
 charine unfermented, or where all the saccharine has been 
 transformed. The wine is then drawn off, and is aged like other 
 wines, but, unlike other wines, which are kept in dark under- 
 ground cellars, the Spanish Bodegas are large stone buildings, 
 with many windows and openings, giving plenty of light anti 
 sun.shine and a free circulation of air. 
 
 Sherry is now used in medicinal compounds, in combina- 
 tion, more than any other wine ; but why lessen its strength- 
 giving powers by combination? The fact that from the time 
 the grapes are ripened on the high sunny hills until the wine is 
 bottled, Sherry is always surrounded by pure air and sunshine, 
 should be considered by the medical iirofession, and the 
 strengthening powers of old Amontillado should be more widely 
 known and appreciated. The longevity of the inhabitants of 
 Andalucia is well known. There is an old tale of an Archbishop 
 of Seville who lived to be one hundred and twenty-five years old, 
 and always drank half a bottle of Amontillado at dinner; but 
 on the days he was not feeling just I'ight, he braced up with two 
 bottles. 
 
 There are a number of varieties of white grajies used in 
 making Sherry, and con.sequently a number of ditt'erent styles 
 of Sherry ; but Sherry is classified under two grand divisions : 
 Plnos and Jerezanos. 
 
 Finos are the pale, Jerezanos the darker wines. Finos are 
 sub-divided into Vino de Pasto, Palo Cortado, Palma and Anion 
 tillado. Jerezanos are sub-divided into I. Raya, II. Raya. III. 
 Raya. I. Raya's are aged and become Oloroso iir Amoroso. II. 
 Raya's and III. Raya's are either mixed with the cheap wines of 
 the plains or distilled. 
 
 This classification is made by the Almacenista (the mer- 
 chant who buys from the grower and ages Sherry, keeping the 
 vintages separate as Anadas), or by his Cai)ataz (head cellar 
 man), and it must be made correctly, or the consequent loss 
 may be enormous. The difficulty can be somewhat imagined 
 when one understands that two Bodega Butts, lying side be- 
 side, containing wines from the same vintage, will develop dif- 
 ferently; one will be Fino, the other Jerezano. This phenomenon 
 cannot be explained, but it is a fact. 
 
Althuugh the vineyard i)roprieturs, almost wilhout excep- 
 tion, were, and still are, Spaniards, the shipping of the wines 
 was entirely in the hands of Englishmen who had settled in 
 Spain, and for that reason, shipping values are expressed in 
 pounds sterling; but conditions are changing, and the vineyard 
 proprietors are gradually becoming shippers of their own wines. 
 
 Taking the Sherry shippers and their Capitaces as a class, 
 ten per cent, are moderate drinkers or abstainers; ninety per 
 cent, are good, generous drinkers; the death rate shows ten per 
 cent, die under .seventy, ninety per cent, live to be seventy or 
 over, and of the latter, fifteen per cent, reach the ripe old age 
 (if ninety years. From this one can understand why Sherry is 
 named in Anchilucia "la leche de los viejos" — the milk for the 
 aged. 
 
 That Shei'ry is becoming more popular as a beverage here 
 in the United States can be seen by the increase in the number of 
 gallons imported each year, as shown l)y I'nited States customs 
 statistics. This is due, in a great measure, to the fact that 
 Amontillado bottled in Si)ain has been introduced to the Ameri- 
 can consumer at the clubs, at the hotel bars, and at the cafes 
 in its native purity. A glass of Amontillado, with or without 
 bitters, is beginning to appeal to the American taste as an ap- 
 petizer. At dinner Amontillado is served with the soup, the 
 glasses are refilled during the (ish cour.se, and frequently are 
 only removed when the roast appears. In the kitchen, the chef, 
 when prei)aring shellfish or terrapin, would be at a lo.ss without 
 Sherry. In fact, for the educated taste, there is no wine like 
 Sherry, and, of all wines, SheiTv is most useful for all purpo.ses. 
 
Port Wine 
 
 # 
 
 HIS magnificent wine is made in the celebrated vine- 
 
 O yards of the Upper Douro, a mountainous region 
 in the north of Portugal, some sixty miles up the 
 River Douro from Oporto. Here, on the slopes of 
 the hills, the vines are grown and the wine is 
 made, and, when ready, sent down the river by boat, or by rail, 
 to mature in the "lodges" or stores of the wine shippers at Villa 
 Nova de Gaia, Oporto. 
 
 Great Britain is by far the largest consumer of Port Wine, 
 and was in the past practically the only consumer. Perhaps 
 the favorite type of Port is still the vintage Wine, i. e., a wine 
 shipped two or three years after it is made, and then matured 
 in bottles many years; and this to an Englishman of the old 
 school is "real Port." P"or the last twenty years, however. 
 Tawny Ports have become increasingly popular, largely owing 
 to the recommendation of the medical profession, who consider 
 that this type of wine is more digestible and less provocative of 
 gout. "Tawny Port" is a Port Wine which has been matured in 
 the cask for many years and has lost color, i. e., become 
 "Tawny," and is in flavor and body quite distinct from a wine 
 matured in bottle. A large quantity of Port is consumed in 
 Russia, Germany, Scandinavia and Brazil. In Russia "White 
 Port" (made from white grapes) is very popular, while in 
 Germany and Scandinavia the taste runs to Tawny Wines. 
 Brazil also consumes a fair quantity, but it is of a very light 
 type, and is not shipped there by the English houses. 
 
 In the United States of America there is a growing demand 
 for Port, especially for the tine Tawny Wines. There is very 
 little doubt that this tyije of wine will steadily grow in favor 
 in the United States. 
 
Italian 
 
 Wines 
 
 
 liii 
 
 CUIliO KOSSATI 
 
 W'iiw Expert 
 
 III ihi' Riif/iil Dcparlmcnl 
 
 of Aijru'ultun' <tf Italij 
 
 /^(K^^^ The Ki"i]>''vine lias nourished in Italy from 
 
 J^^^^H^ the remotest aiitiquit\-. (lie name of Ooiotriu 
 /■'^fl^Hj Iclhis, or land of wine, given to it by ancient 
 S J^^^V poets, attesting the pre-eminence already attained 
 ^T^M^BP^ by the peninsula in this line of production from 
 ^<^^^^ the earliest times. 
 
 Nowhere else, perhaps, has the i)roduct of the grape played 
 such an important part in national life as in ancient Rome and 
 Greece; in art as in literature, in religion as in politics. 
 
 No other country, perhaps, as Italy, owing to its orograph- 
 ical configuration and the notable dill'erences in climate and 
 soil of its various sections, shows such a varied production of 
 wines, from the light wines of the North to the generous vint- 
 ages of the South. The gamut of quality is probably unparal- 
 leled. There are wines which seem to reflect the character of 
 the races by whom they are produced. For example: The 
 Barolo of Piedmont possesses those robust and austere qualities 
 which mark the Piedmontese people who make it ; the Chianti 
 is gentle, graceful and vivacious, like the Tu.scan people; the 
 Lachrima Christi is warm and ardent, as Neapolitans are; the 
 Marsala, .strong and generous, as the inhabitants of Sicily. 
 
 A comprehensive review of even the i)rincipal types of wine 
 produced in Italy cannot adequately be contained within the 
 limits of a brief article. Put, making virtue of necessity, and 
 starting from the North of the Peninsula, we find, first, Pied- 
 mont, a hilly province, in climate and soil well adapted to wine 
 growing. Table wines form the largest and most important 
 part of its production, of which the finest brands are the Gatti- 
 nara, (Ihemme, Rarolo, Parbaresco, Net)biolo, Parbera, Grigno- 
 lino, and Freisa. All these are dry wines, which jiosses a good 
 bou(iuet and tonic iiualities. 
 
 "Rarolo," says Professor Mosso, "is a beverage which pro- 
 duces physiological effects even before you take it." Its color 
 is garnet, its bouciuet ethereal, its flavor full, lasting and aro- 
 matic. Although it matures in five or six years, .some prefer it 
 ten years old. It is generally seiwed in a tiasket, like Ilurgundy, 
 to show its age and preserve its crust. 
 
After "having washed our lips with this illustrious wine," 
 we may sample Nebbiolo, which is preferred by many on account 
 of its fruity flavor and flower-like boutiuet. It is also prepared 
 in a sparkling condition, and a very pleasant beverage is this 
 red sparkling wine, especially with nuts. 
 
 Nebbiolo, "which from the wine press comes sparkling and 
 rushes in bottle and cellar to hide its young blushes," cannot, 
 however, monopolize entirely our attention, for other In'ands 
 are claiming their share of it, such as: Barbaresco, which is a 
 red wine, round and soft, resembling Burgundy; the popular 
 Barbera, much liked for its deei), ruby color, and its vigorous, 
 strengthening qualities; and the aristocratic strawberry-colored 
 (irignolino, an idea! table wine, the latter the favorite of the 
 late Archbishop F^'ranzoni of Turin. 
 
 Sparkling Moscato of Asti or C'anelli, produced in what is 
 probalily the best-known viticultural district of I'iedmont, is 
 considered one of the best and most typical of Italian sparkling 
 wines. It has been called "a lad\'s wine" because "it is sweet." 
 Remarkable for its bouiiuet, which stands somewhat between that 
 of the musk and the scent of the rose, it has a slight alcoholic 
 strength, so that it can be used safel\' even by the gentle sex, 
 and is an exhilarating beverage. 
 
 Lombardy produces less wine than Piedmont, the culture of 
 the grape being confined mainly to the sub-Alpine or Alpine 
 district, while the plains are chiefly devoted to the dairy and 
 silk industries. What little wine is grown in Lombardy is, how- 
 ever, of good (luality; the l)est being the wmes of Valtellina, the 
 Rhaetia of the Latins, a province as celebrated to-day for its 
 vintages as it was in ancient times. They are characterized by a 
 beautiful strawberrv' color, lightness, delicacy of bouquet, clean- 
 liness, and nuttiness of flaxor, being am(jng Italian wines those 
 which approach the most, the grand vintage of the Medoc. 
 
 On the western border of the Venetian province, not far 
 from that romantic city of Verona, is grown another of the best 
 wines of Italy, viz. : The Valpolicella, a table wine, ruby in 
 color, of moderate strength, clean and palatable, developing with 
 age a delicate, violet-like bouiiuet. Somewhat resembling Bur- 
 gundy, it has, however, a certain tendency to sparkle, a quality 
 this, that has been lately utilized in prejjaring of this tyi)e a 
 sparkling variety, which finds considerable favor among con- 
 sumers in this country. 
 
 The allurements of Stecchetti's poetry are not necessary to 
 initiate the traveller into the delightful "soles of Venice and wine 
 of Conegliano," another of the celebrated Venetian vintages, 
 and probably, the most popular sparkling wine of Italy, for the 
 latter speaks for itself, once you have gotten well acciuainted 
 with it. 
 
As we proceed further through the Po Valley, skirting the 
 hills located at the Toot of the Appenines, where our attention 
 is attracted by the artistic manner in which the grapevine is 
 trained, in garlands and festoons from tree to tree, giving the 
 country a picturesque and festive appearance, we are not sur- 
 prised to find sj'nthesized all these natural beauties, and, I should 
 say, the very bountif ulness of the Aemilian district in the famous 
 Lambrusco wine, produced near Modena, a red, sparkling wine, 
 of violet-like bouquet, somewhat similar to Nebbiolo, but more 
 tasty and not quite so fruity. 
 
 In the infinite gamut of wines, which gladden the heart of 
 man, Chianti, this most popular and most representative of 
 Italian wines, represents a type entirely of its own, well defined 
 and well established. 
 
 Elegantly, nay coquettishly, gotten up in tho.se familiar, 
 neatly-trimmed flasks, adorned with the national colors of Italy, 
 Chianti is essentially a joyous and vivacious wine, the prototype 
 of the red wines of Tuscany, characterized by the brightness 
 and vivacity of their ruby color, the vinosity of their bouquet, 
 the moderateness of their alcoholic strength (just sufficient to 
 move the brain without impairing it), by the cleanliness, smooth- 
 ness and gentleness of their tlavor, and, above all, by that quality 
 which the Tuscans define as "passante," viz., easily dige.stible. 
 Chianti has not the austerity nor the deep flavor of Barolo or 
 (iatlinara, but has many of the soft graces of the Valpolicella 
 or Valtellina, which alone, among the fine table wines of Italy, 
 can, on aristocratic tables, contend with this son of ancient 
 Etruria. 
 
 Aleatico is a red. Muscadine wine, of which Henderson, the 
 well-known English authority, says that "the name in some 
 measure e.xpres.ses the rich quality of this wine, which has a 
 brilliant purple color and a luscious aromatic flavor, without 
 being cloying to the palate, as its sweetness is generally tem- 
 pered with an agreeable sharpness and slight astringency. It 
 is, in fact, one of the be.st .specimens of the dolce piccanti wines; 
 and probably ap])roaches more than any other some of the most 
 esteemed wines of the ancients." 
 
 P^rom Tuscany, whose good wine is, as Bedi says, "Gentle- 
 man," and "No headache hath he, no headache, I say, for those 
 who talked with him yesterday," we step into the Orvieto dis- 
 trict of Central Italy, famous for its white wines, and for being 
 the home of the historical "Est-Est-E.st Wine," which robbed 
 Germany of one of its abbots, the bibulous Johann Fugger. 
 
 The celebrated wines of Naples come from the slopes of 
 fiery Mount Vesuvius, where it would seem almost parado.xical 
 that the vine should flourish and yield such excellent products 
 
as it does, and from the hillsides of the surrounding country, in- 
 cluding- the islands of the bay. 
 
 In this fascinating viridary, eternally fertile, ancient mem- 
 ories flow from the festive pergolas and harbors laden with the 
 golden bunches of the Cajiri, or with the purple fruit that yields 
 the Falernian, or with the aromatic grapes, from which Lach- 
 ryma Christi is obtained. 
 
 Of Lachryma Christi, which is an amber-colored wine, pos- 
 sessing a pronounced and agreeable bouciuet, and a delicious, 
 fruity flavor of its own, Henry Vizetelly, a competent English 
 authority, in his well-known book, "The Wines of the World," 
 states: "At the head of South Italian wines, one unquestionably 
 has to place the far-famed Lachryma C^nnsti, the product of the 
 loose volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius, and an exceedingly luscious 
 wine, of refreshing flavor." 
 
 A superior semi-dry, or dry, sparkling variety of Lachryma 
 Christi, has lately been produced, which combines the intrinsic 
 merits of this wine with the exhilarating qualties of a sparkling 
 wine, and also a red variety is known, nljtained from the Lach- 
 ryma grape. 
 
 No brand, ancient or mndern, has enjoyed such enduring 
 or extensive celebrity as Falernian. The Faleruian of antiquity 
 came from Mount Massico, and its modern uamesake is pro- 
 duced in the hilly volcanic district extending l'r(im Pozzuoli to 
 Cunia. It is prepared from grapes tlial are allowed to remain 
 on the vines until late in the fall ami gathered when overrijie, tiie 
 juice being consecpiently very rich. 
 
 Of Falernian, to-da\', two \arieties are jn'oduced : One red, 
 endowed with great bouijuet, generous strength, full Ijody, deli- 
 cate, velvety flavor; another, golden white, generous, richly 
 flavored, with an aromatic boucjuet of its own. 
 
 White Capri is a refreshing, delicate, fi-agrant, sub-acid- 
 ulous wine, of a pale, primrose color, I'esembling in its charac- 
 teristics the Chablis of Burgundy. Red Capri is a generous 
 fragrant, ruliy-colored wine, with greater body than the white, 
 velvety to the taste, and to l)e taken with I'oast meat. 
 
 The South of Italy, with its generous vintages, supplies 
 legion of well-known brands, such as the sweet Muscat of Trani, 
 the Malmsey of Lipari, the aromatic and strongly-.scented dessert 
 wines of Calabria (Zagarese and Gerace), and the robust, heavy- 
 bodied, red wines of Bari, Barletta, Lecce and Galli])oli. 
 
 Through the delicious perfume of orange blossoms comes to 
 us the fame of the celebrated wines of Sicily, where the feast 
 of the son of Jupiter and Semele is a contimious one, finding its 
 flow in the Muscat of Syracuse, suggestive of the honey of Mount 
 Ibla, in its nectareous confrere of Segesta, in the ratlier strong, 
 but highly fragrant, Albanello and Naccarella, in the Nelsonian 
 
vintaj^es of the Duchy of Ilronte, supplied lo the English court, 
 in the generous vintages of the Aetna, and last, but not least, 
 in the well-known Mai'sala wine. 
 
 Of all Italian wines, Marsala is, perhaps, the best known 
 among the English-speaking race. It is, undoubtedly, the best 
 of the many dessert wines for which Italy enjoys a world-wide 
 reputation. 
 
 Marsala is a wine that resembles Sheriy. hut, as a rule, 
 richer in body, as in its |)n|)aiati()ii a certain amount of must 
 from red grapes is used. It has a iiighly develoi)ed bou(iuet, 
 and is entirely free of acidity to the taste, which is mellow and 
 oily. Like Sherry and Port, Marsala is a fortified wine, although 
 there are some ciualitie.s. such as the Virgin, which do not re- 
 ceive any addition of brandy at all. 
 
 Malm.sey, or Malvasia, is a white, .sweet, dessert wine, rather 
 alcoholic, with lu.scious flavor, resembling Madeira. 
 
 Of the Syracusan Muscat, as well as of that of Segesta, we 
 may say with ('ari)ene that "it has a brilliant golden color, a 
 most gracious and not excessi\e fragrance, an e.xiiuisite, honey- 
 like flavor, that tills the mouth with a harmonious ensemble of 
 delicious sensations, which the palate can jjerceive, but no pen 
 adequately de.scribe." 
 
 Our re\iew of Sicili;in wines wouhl not be complete without 
 nn'ntioning two or thi\'e otlii'r well-known brands, viz: Coi'vo, 
 a white t;ible wine, resembling Sauterne. and possessing a beau- 
 tiful amber color, boutpiet and aroma t\pically Southern, a clean, 
 generous, silky taste, warming to the system. Generous in 
 flavor, without being heady, it combines body with finesse, (jual- 
 ity with reasonable ]irice. 
 
 Castel Calatubbo, from the vineyards of Prince Pape di 
 \'aldina, is also a wine of the Sauterne type, although somewhat 
 dryer and a trifle more generf)us. 
 
 "Vin de Zucco," grown at N'illa Crazia. a property of the 
 Orleans family, in the province of Palermo, is another famous 
 Sicilian growth. This wine, obtained with the greatest care, 
 stands between a Sauterne and a Sherry wine, and is ideal either 
 as a dessert or as a "\'in de lu.xe." 
 
Italian 
 
 Vermouth 
 
 By 
 CESARE CONTI 
 
 I'lVsUlcul Itulo-American Stores 
 New Voik 
 
 Italian \'erm(iiith is uiuloubtedly the best known 
 and most laryely consumed vinous liiiuor used in the 
 preparation of mixed drinks. 
 
 Witli this iiquoi- is so identilied tlie city of 
 Turin, \\here it is chiefly jjrepared, that its name has 
 become familiar as tlie home of Vermouth jkii cr- 
 
 CI'IIcilCC. 
 
 Vermouth is, practically, a good white wine, chiefly Muscat, 
 aromatized with the addition of the extract from certain aro- 
 matic herbs, fortified with i)ure wine spirits to a strength vary- 
 ing from fifteen to se\'enteen \wy cent, by xolume, sweetened 
 with pure sugar, so as to bring its saccharimetric contents at 
 from twelve to eighteen per cent. 
 
 It derives its name, of Teutonic origin, from the word 
 "Wermut," which stands in the (Jerman language for the Eng- 
 lish "wormwood," one of the aromatic herbs which is more or 
 less conspicuous in all the I'ormulas for its preparation. 
 
 There are many other herbs and spices entering into the 
 comitosition of the extract added to wine in the preparation of 
 Vermouth, which vary according to formula. Of these, there 
 are as many, we might say, as lea\'es in Vallombrosa, each maker 
 having his own particular formula, which is naturally guarded 
 as a trade secret. 
 
 Although wormwood figures in all formulas, it must be 
 noted that the parts of the plant used are not the leaves, nor the 
 stems, which contain the essential oil of wormwood or absinthol, 
 but the flowers, or better, the inflorescences which contain, in- 
 stead of the essential oil, an entirely unobjectionable aromatic 
 principle, known as absinthine. recognized by the pharmacopcea 
 as a useful tonic. 
 
 The custom of infusing aromatic ingredients into wine, in 
 order to enhance its hygienic xalue. dates from the remotest 
 times. 
 
 Mention is made of such wines by Pliny, and Cicero alludes 
 to an "alixiiitlndtiini riunm," which must have been something 
 on the lines of Vermouth, but of course, not so improved and 
 harmonious in its composition as the article of the present day. 
 
Vermouth wine is a liquor of a rather deep golden color, of 
 absolute clearness, with a pronounced boutiuet of aromatic 
 herbs and spices, skillfully combined so as to obtain an homo- 
 geneous ensemble, with a sweet flavor, endinjj in an agreeable 
 aromatic and tonic-slight bitterness. ILsed moderately, it has a 
 beneficial influence on the organism, in stimulating the appetite 
 and toning the action of weak stomachs. 
 
 The first maker of Vermouth in Tui-iii was a pastry cook 
 and liquor retailer, having his store under the Portici di Piazza 
 Castello, who sold his customers the Muscatel wine of Piedmont, 
 in which he had infused some of tiie herbs that are identified 
 with the preparation of this liquor. 
 
 From the outset it met with the favor of the consumers, 
 and the demand soon grew to such size to require the prepara 
 tion on a lai'ge scale, thus bringing into existence several estab- 
 lishments, that quickly attained commercial importance. 
 
 These supply both to a consideral)le home demand and to 
 an ever-increasing export trade, showing that foreign countries 
 alone require somewhat in the neighborhood of ] 73,672,000 bot- 
 tles, besides .540,600 gallons, of this vinous liquor, of which the 
 United States receives per year about 43,056,000 bottles and 
 about 65,000 gallons. 
 
 There are to-day, in Turin and neighborhood, about a dozen 
 first-class establishments engaged in this industry, some of them 
 with plants that are small towns in themselves, where many 
 thousands of workmen find remunerative employment. 
 
 The demand for this Italian .specialty in the United States 
 has increased wonderfully within the last twenty years, viz., 
 from about 50,000 ca.ses in the early nineties, to a present yearly 
 average of over 150,000 cases. 
 
 Vermouth wine is drunk in Italy and in most foreign coun- 
 tries straight, as an appetizer, in the same way as in this coun- 
 try the cocktail is taken before dinner. 
 
 In the United States it is generally used in the preparation 
 of mixed drinks, although foreign consumers drink it plain. 
 
 Vermouth is the genius of the cocktail, being the ingredient 
 that, either in the Martini or the Manhattan, imparts to it the 
 characteristic feature of the drink. 
 
 There is no doubt that the future has in store for this ar- 
 ticle as great prospects as the past has recorded successes, and 
 that, as consumers in this country become more familiar with 
 the use of Vermouth as a beverage to be drunk plain, which en- 
 ables them to better appreciate quality, further development of 
 its importation will be realized, especially in those brands which 
 can challenge in the matter of excellence. 
 
Qn German 
 
 Wines 
 
 By 
 
 PHILIP HOLLENBACH 
 
 Pics. Phil. Hollcnhach Co. 
 
 Lmiisiille. Ky. 
 
 To know how to drink wine belongs only to a 
 cultivated taste; to know how to tempt guests to 
 indulge in it with i)leasure belongs only to Ihe 
 host gifted with rare tact and artistic discrimina- 
 tion. 
 
 A painting from the liand of a master must 
 be placed in a favorable light and with appropriate surround- 
 ings to set off its excellence; the most beautiful woman despises 
 not the act of enhancing her charms by harmoninus auxiliaries 
 or by judicious contrasts. 
 
 Since time immemorial the poets of all nations ha\'e been 
 inspired to sing the fame of (lerman wine. The old bards knew 
 full well the delicious bringer of heaxenly bliss to the poor 
 earth-chained being known as the species "homo sapiens." 
 
 One of our greatest jjoets, Henry VVadsworth Longfellow, 
 sings of the vintage of 1811, which he found in a convent cellar, 
 thus : 
 
 "And whenever a goblet thereof I th-ain, 
 The old rhyme keeps running in my brain : 
 At Bacharach on the Rhine, 
 
 At Hochheim on the Main, 
 And at Wurzburg on the Stein, 
 
 Grow the three best kinds of wine." 
 
 Mathias Claudius, the renowned Gei'man poet, says: 
 
 "The Rhine, the Rhine — there grow the gay plantations! 
 hallowed be the Rhine ! 
 Upon his banks are brewed the rich potations 
 Of this consoling wine." 
 
 The Rivers Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, Ahr, Main, Nahe, are 
 bordered with \'ineyards, whence the golden juice of the grapes 
 comes to enjoy the heart of man. 
 
 Pure wine is a tonic — nature's tonic. Its low percentage 
 of alcohol renders it at once the most expedient and the most 
 wholesome drink that can be used. It is a gift of Nature — the 
 Great Creator. But, alas! not every year that rolls by does 
 bring us this delicious fluid. 
 
The quality, as well as quantity, of wine differs to a great 
 extent, due to meteorological ellects and to herbivorous vermin 
 which tend to destroy the fruit of man's labor. 
 
 The last century gave us some very fine vintages, amongst 
 which the years 1811, 1834, 1865 and 189:^ were excellent in 
 quality and quantity. The last five or six years have yielded 
 hardly any crop at all, and were almo.st a total failure. 
 
 Rich old wines were nur.sed with great skill in the (lerman 
 cities by the employees of the city council and were dispensed 
 in the council cellar in olden times. Yea, wine had the (luality 
 of being used as currency, and fines on miscreants were impo.sed 
 in such a way that the culprit had to pay one or more ohms of 
 wine of a certain vintage. 
 
 To-day almost every German city has a Rathskeller (coun- 
 cil cellar) situated in the basement of the city hall, and there 
 the wine, in goblets of crystal, causes often the partakers of a 
 feast to sing with Mathias Claudius: 
 
 "Drink to the Rhine I And every coming morrow 
 Be mirth and music thine! 
 And when we meet a child of care and sorrow. 
 We'll send him to the Rhine." 
 
jyjixed Drinks and 
 
 Their Ingredients 
 
 A. E. UL'PPERMANN 
 
 of J. 11 '. l\'uppcinian 
 
 New York Cili/ 
 
 In considering the subject of mixed drinks, 
 it may not be out of place to dwell briefly upon 
 their history, as well as upon the reasons for 
 their existence and their continued popularity. 
 Since time immemorial, men have sought to lend 
 an added relish to food through seasoning, that 
 is, through the addition of flavorings of a si)icy, aromatic, or 
 piquant, nature. It was natural, therefore, that the same meth- 
 ods should have been applied in the matter of beverages, as is 
 witnessed by the highlx'-llavored jninches and other brews of 
 our forefathers. 
 
 A distinction siiould be drawn, howex'er, between those 
 mixed drinks whicii are devised purely as thirst (luenciiers and 
 which should be classified under the heading of beverages, and 
 those which are commonly known as appetizers. Among the 
 former are included such drinks as shandy-gaff and the various 
 toddies, rickeys, punches, cobblers, juleps, etc. To some of these 
 beverages it has been sought to communicate a food value, aside 
 from that of the stimulant, as in the case of sherry-flip, egg-nogg, 
 milk-punch, etc., foods having been introduced because of their 
 value as such, rather than because of any flavor which tiiey 
 might impart. 
 
 But there is another class of mixed drinks not less impor- 
 tant nor less ijojnilar than the thirst-quenchers or beverages 
 just named. This class is popularly known under the name of 
 appetizers, in which are comprised all of the cocktails and other 
 mixed drinks that are designed particularly to increase the de- 
 sire for food, that is, to promote the appetite and stimulate the 
 activity of the digestive organs. 
 
 In medicine, the therapeutic value of simple or aromatic 
 bitters has long been recognized. The introduction of a bitter 
 element, highly aromatic in its nature, was due to this widely 
 accepted principle among medical men as well as the laity as 
 to the value of aromatic bitters administered in its most delight- 
 ful form, viz., the cocktail. 
 
 The bitters act upon the saliva glands as well as upon the 
 secretions of the stomach, stimulating both to a greater degree 
 
of activity, their effect being augmented by the aromatics, in- 
 cluding the alcohol. The French have long recognized the value 
 of the bitter element in their celebrated tonic wines, which gen- 
 erally contain cinchona or other barks of a similar nature. Nux 
 vomica, for instance, a powerful stomachic, is inten.sely bitter. 
 
 It is true that an appetizer or cocktail may al.so be taken 
 as bracer or to counteract mental depression or temporary 
 melancholia, the aromatics, which are its most striking constit- 
 uents, producing in such cases a similar ef!ect to that of .spirits 
 of ammonia. So true is this assertion that many connois.seurs, 
 in order to obtain a maximum bracing effect, prefer to use a 
 highly aromatic bitters, such as Ango.stura, without the admix- 
 ture of any liquor. In the.se ca.ses a pony glass is the proper 
 quantity. 
 
 It is evident, llifn, that the u.se of bitters gave rise to the 
 introduction of the appetizer, or cocktail, for, without the bitter 
 ingredient, these drinks would not serve their purpose as appe- 
 tizers. It is also apparent that in order to produce the desired 
 effect the bitters should be of a highly aromatic character, al- 
 though bitters flavored only with orange peel, which are com- 
 paratively only slightly aromatic, are also extensively used, but 
 mainly in conjunction with such highly aromatic bitters as 
 those of Dr. Siegert, invented at the town of Angostura in the 
 early part of the la.st century. Various opinions are held as 
 to the composition of the original cocktail, although it is gen- 
 erally conceded that gin and Angostura preceded sherry and 
 Angostura as an appetizer, the former reaching its greatest 
 popularity in America, and the latter in England. The so-called 
 old-fa.shioned cocktail, consisting of a loaf of sugar steeped in 
 a teaspoonful of bitters added to rye whisky, was undoubtedly 
 antedated, at least in this country, by the old-fashioned appe- 
 tizer, gin and bitters. 
 
 As it is a well-known principle that the addition of sugar 
 to alcoholic drinks, or even to those which are only slightly al- 
 coholic, adds materially to their exhilarating effect, so in the 
 cocktail, if it is desired to heighten the subtlety of the mixture, 
 the bitter taste should always be modified by the addition of 
 sweetening. In the same way the communication of a slightly 
 acid characteristic, as by a couple of dashes of lemon juice, will 
 improve certain, although by no means all, appetizers. It is by 
 the nice balancing of these various elements that the true artist 
 may be recognized. 
 
 There is a demand for appetizers that are only slightly 
 aromatic and exclusively bitter, such as the dry Martini, but the 
 effect in these cases is almost entirely one-sided, the bitter char- 
 
actei'istic being accentuated to tlie exclusion somewhat largely 
 of the aromatic, and completely of the slightly acid and sweet 
 constituents. The Martini cocktail evidently was the result of 
 an abortive attempt to render the flavor of gin palatable to those 
 to whom it is naturally repugnant, the delicate flavor of the 
 French Vermouth being inadequate to perform the task imposed 
 upon it. An attempt to remedy this defect was made by intro- 
 ducing an equal proportion of Italian Vermouth, thus giving 
 rise to the Bronx cocktail; but, generally speaking, French and 
 Italian Vei'mouths constitute an inadvisable mixture, unless a 
 highly aromatic bitters is used as a genial arbitrator in the con- 
 test between the two opposing ingredients. The combination of 
 Italian Vermouth with gin is always a happy one, the flavor 
 of the former easily taking first place in the mixture, but a lib- 
 eral use of Angostura, as in the popular Barry cocktail, is in- 
 evitable. The addition of five drops of creme de menthe and a 
 piece of twisted lemon peel makes this drink as delicious as any 
 that can be offered to the most exacting epicure. 
 
 In those mixed drinks which have been classified as simply 
 beverages or thirst-quenchers, the bitter and aromatic principles 
 should not be overlooked, for nothing will lend such a delicious 
 flavor as a highly aromatic ingredient to champagne, claret and 
 rhinewine cups or ininches. On the other hand, this constituent 
 should be sparingly used with the sweet wines of Spain, such 
 as port, sweet maderia, Lagrima Christa, and others. Angos- 
 tura, however, may be freely used with claret, to which it lends 
 a substantial body, such as is found in old burgundy. In hot 
 drinks, such as hot spiced rum and hot punches, the aromatlcs 
 should be not too lilierally used, as these volatile constituents 
 are rapidly vaporized by the heat, and the flavor is thereby 
 temporarily intensified. It is particularly imperative, therefore, 
 that hot drinks should not be allowed to grow cold or to be re- 
 heated. 
 
 It is almost superflous to say that all mixed drinlvs, whether 
 hot or cold, should be served as soon as possible after mixing, 
 for it is necessary that the constituents should not be allowed 
 to blend. The flavor of each ingredient should stand out promi- 
 nently and play with as much vigor as possible the part assigned 
 to it. This cannot be the case if the mixture is allowed to stand 
 so as to become stale, even if bottled. 
 
Jljaking ''Hand-made " 
 Sour Mash 
 
 CEO. r. niETERLE 
 
 I'was. Unitm Distilling Cn. 
 Cincinnali. O. 
 
 ^^^^^^ A typical "Sour Mash" Whiskey was best made 
 
 ^Q -«»^« amid back-woods surroundings, where i^rimitive 
 »> <i^^A "i^'^'i'xi'^' "1*^1 style machinei'y and back-woods treat- 
 ^^ J^^i^^K nient ])r(iduced a nectar "fit for the K"d"^-" Mere 
 ^^1^*^^ modern invention and chemical yeasting did not 
 ^^^^^ \ie with each other to produce the hiKhest possible 
 yield on each bushel oT grain mashed, but simi)ly to get out of 
 the corn, rye and barley malt used, the "cream of the cream," 
 and the distiller was satisfied to present it as God's noblest gift 
 to man, and to the world at large. He, nor I, would think of 
 saying a word of ai)()logy in defense of this kind of goods, "lie- 
 gad ! 11 needs no apology. And sah, — the drink that was good 
 enough for Daniel Boone is good enough for you, sah." It has 
 never been beat since squirrel-cap, backwoods-pioneer Daniel 
 Boone first made this "nectar of the woods" in the Blue Cra.ss 
 regions of Kentucky, when woods and Indians seem to have 
 been the only things to enjoy the i)ictui"es(iueness of this grand 
 old State, "Kentucky." 
 
 It has been some years since I made a \isit to one of these 
 old, back-woods distilleries. Six hours by train landed me in the 
 county seat of one of the best known whiskey counties of Ken- 
 tucky — 11 o'clock at night, a coinmercial traveler — and I fol- 
 lowed the light of a colored jtorter through the dismal darkness 
 of the town and into the hotel. The kerosene oil lamp burned 
 in the oflice, the only sign of life about the place. 
 
 A vn\) on the countei' brought out the landlord in dislial)ill('. 
 rubbing his eyes ;ind mentally damning the latecomer. He 
 turnetl us into a general sleeping room, (ilad to get a bed, we 
 turned in, tired, woi-n-out. and slejit the sleep of the just. Next 
 morning brought a breakfast of bacon and eggs, hot rolls and 
 coffee. 
 
 Through the nKiniiiig dew the tri]) to the distillery was made 
 on horseback ; first over good i)ikes lined with stone-laid fences 
 encircling fields of wheat, corn, hemp. Then into a lane which 
 led over and across, back and recrossing so many times, that it 
 .soon developed that this road led through and along the creek, 
 because its rocky bed was better navigating than a ride or drive 
 over the soft loam of the muddy road. 
 
Never in my life did I think, that a prosaic salesman, with 
 whom "orders" were first consideration, and "blowings-up" 
 from house the last consideration, could be moved, much less 
 carried away by romantic scenery. I admit that there must 
 have been something I did not understand, that made me pause, 
 reflect, think. 
 
 Below, the babbling brook, trickling with its crystal clear 
 water from rock-ledge to rock-ledge, vv'inding in and out of 
 green trees and underbrush above, high hills (mountains) cov- 
 ered with pine trees, over which hung white silvery clouds, like 
 a veil protecting the pines against the rising sun's rays, beating 
 down upon the mountain slope. And as the sun's rays became 
 more direct and warmer, the misty cloud-like veil disappeared, 
 leaving instead an equally beautiful panorama in the many-shaded 
 green of the mountain side. My pen fails me, and I can not 
 make a word-picture that will give the awe-inspiring feeling that 
 creeps into your soul when you meet Nature in all its natural 
 beauty. Did you ever catch a shiver or feeling mixed of awe and 
 delight run through your veins when, "Der Liebe Hergott (ieht 
 Pureh Den Wald Leise Nach Seiner VVeise" is sung. That comes 
 near it in my limited ajipreciation of music. 
 
 The .iourney ends at tlie forks or where three creeks meet, 
 and at which point you first see the rustic bridge, which is no 
 more or less than a large tree felled across the creek, branches 
 trimmed off, and furnishes the distiller and his men a crossing 
 from house to distillery. 
 
 The distillery is in perfect keeping with its surroundings. 
 Built at the beginning of the nineteenth century, it looks as if 
 it stands today with little or no repairs being "wasted" on it 
 since; the shingles are covered with moss, and it certainly is 
 the "mill in the forest." 
 
 The water is led through pipes from a large sj^ring on the 
 mountain side, some 2,500 feet — taking it from there because 
 of the never-failing supply of the spring, and because it is as 
 clear as crystal and never more than 56 Fahrenheit temperature, 
 notwith.standing the fact that it contains alkali or is "hard," it 
 is used for mash, boiler and general use around the distillery. 
 
 The corn is grown arountl the immetiiate neighborhood, but 
 often when crops f;iil, these distillers must get corn from other 
 States. 
 
 The rye comes from the Northwest, principally Wisconsin, 
 and barley malt from Minnesota, ])riiu-ipaily malted in Milwau- 
 kee or Chicago. 
 
 The grain is ground by the old-fashioned method, two burr 
 stones, often re-cut, and so arranged that one stone revolves 
 over the other, crushing and grinding the grain between them. 
 
The corn-meal is put. one bushel into an open barrel-tub and 
 thoroughly scalded with hot water, but most frequently hot 
 slop. 
 
 The stirring is done by a darkey with a hand-rake, and then 
 the barrel is set aside, allowed to rest for 24 hours. After this 
 time, it has the consistency of mush. It is not watery, nor is 
 it hard, but simply mush. 
 
 The darkey again comes with his hand-rake, and breaks 
 up this mush and throws it into the large fermenters. It is 
 thinned down liy adding hot water, but more frequently strained 
 slop, so that the final contents of the fermenters is about one 
 barrel of water to one bushel of grain. The required propor- 
 tion of small grain (rye and barley malt) is added during the 
 process of breaking up the "mush" and the fei-mentation is 
 started by skimming off sufficient quantity fi-om the top of the 
 fermenters during the 72 houi's that they are jjcrmitted to fer- 
 ment or work. 
 
 After 72 hours (or iXJ hours after first mashing) the fer- 
 menters become quiet. The starch in the corn has been turned 
 into Beer. It is sour, like beer, and ta.stes not unlike beer. This 
 is then pumped into a wooden three-chamber still, and the beer 
 is distilled into whiskey. This pi'ocess separates the alcohol 
 (whiskey) from the mash, leaving spent slop behind. 
 
 The whi.skey finds its way to a second distillation in a "cop- 
 per doubler" heated over a wood fire. And the di.stillation is so 
 controlled that it boils over and runs into a cistern room at the 
 bonded warehouse into a tub, or copper tank at 100 or 101 proof, 
 so that the distiller can (ill it into barrels at this proof without 
 reducing with distilled water. A good test of quality being 
 that this whiskey as it runs into the cistern room is sweet, 
 pleasant to taste and smell, and if a distiller takes a pride in 
 his product, he will call it some endearing name — "sugar-loaf," 
 etc. 
 
 To go back, the spent slop is separated by settling into a 
 tub or by straining process, so that the thick is fed to cattle and 
 the thin is used for mashing and tilling in the fermenters. 
 
 All methods of handling are primitive. Grain is liauled 
 miles up the creek road we have just admired. 
 
 Whiskey, when unbonded, goes back the same way. Coal, 
 which is now used in part of manufacture, comes in same way, 
 but none of these "old-fashioned, hand-made" distillers would 
 think of using coal under the copper doubler. The evenness 
 of heat, perhaps the aroma of burnt char of wood, adds to the 
 flavor. Some of these thoughts may be far-fetched, but the 
 facts are nevertheless true. 
 
The bonded warehouses are the same as at any other dis- 
 tillery. The old stone warehouses are rapidly giving way to 
 modern rack warehouses. 
 
 Today no connoisseur will believe any whiskey is properly 
 matured unless maturity is evidenced by an increase in proof 
 over and above the proof at which the whiskey was originally 
 entered into bond. And most distillers of sour-mash whiskies 
 heat their warehouses in extreme cold weather. To hold tem- 
 perature of warehouses too high, is also disadvantageous, as it 
 deprives whiskey of its natural development, impregnates them 
 with too much tannin or tannic acid and deprives them of part 
 of their bouquet. 
 
 Sour mash whiskies are full of essential oils. Ninety-six 
 iiours of fermentation, primitive methods, all add to make the 
 sour mash whiskies heavier than other whiskies. They take in 
 consequence longer to mature, and are hardly fit for drink until 
 about four years old. From that time on they become mellower 
 in taste and finer in flavor. Some of the re-imported, exported, 
 sour mash whiskies are as fine as any Old Cognac Brandy, in- 
 finitely more wholesome, and pure beyt)nd doubt, and doctors 
 prefer to prescribe them for medicine. 
 
 The greater part of the morning was taken in my investiga- 
 tion of the distillery and warehouse; a long and loud blow on 
 the horn indicated dinner, and we soon found ourselves, after 
 a wash, at the hospitable table of the distiller. 
 
 Oh, these Kentuckians are a lovely people. They are gross- 
 ly slandered when people believe they do nothing but shoot and 
 kill. There are rufiians any place you go, the world over, but 
 for genuine true friendshi]), that is all wool and a yard wide and 
 will never fade, I like to think of the friendship of some of my 
 Kentucky friends. 
 
 N. B.^ — Many drops of water have gone down the stream ; 
 many drops of sand have marked the hours, the days and years, 
 since the above account recorded the pleasant reflections of a de- 
 lightful period. Thirty years have gone by. The author's hair, 
 such as have been spared to him, are gray. Changes in business 
 conditions are marked with even more distinct ditt'erences. 
 
 From an honest eft'ort for the temperate use of liquors, to- 
 day the trade is harassed by fanatical prohibition in many 
 places. The lengthening of the bonded period to eight years; 
 the permission granted to the distiller to bottle in bond ; have 
 brought about many changes in the methods of fermentation and 
 distillation, so that today primitive methods as described in the 
 above account are rarely, yes, very rarely found. Notwithstand- 
 ing, the eflervescence of youth, the author himself is now oper- 
 ating a model distillery, employing with good results the ad- 
 vanced methods and apparatus which science and experience 
 have produced. 
 
ji'amous New 
 
 Orleans Drinks 
 
 
 By 
 
 Slt)\EY STORY 
 
 Of New Orleans 
 
 Louisiana 
 
 Speaking of beverages reminds us of those de- 
 licious decoctions for which the Metropolis of the 
 South (New Orleans) is famous. There are five of 
 them, which for flavor and taste equal the nectar of 
 the gods. They are "The Sazerac Cocktail," "Gin 
 Fizz a la Ramos," "High Ball Rofignac," "Absinth 
 a la Suissesse," "Peychaud Cocktail." 
 
 Were you ever in New Orleans? If so, you must on many 
 occasions found yourself following the crowd which, as it 
 reaches Royal and Canal, turns off into French town and, hav- 
 ing made scarcely seventy-five feet, enters a long, narrow corri- 
 dor at the end of which is a large room with sand on the floor, 
 and a long and handsome bar fully seventy-five feet long, before 
 which stands most of the time a line of men, sometimes two 
 deep. This is the famous Sazerac Saloon, known the world over 
 for the art it possesses in the fabrication of the Sazerac Cock- 
 tail. 
 
 No beverage of recent years has drawn to itself more praise 
 and attention than the "Ramos Gin Fizz" which is supplied to 
 thousands upon thousands every year by the genial and courtly 
 proprietor of the "Stag," Col. H. C. Ramos. The establishment 
 is one of the finest of its kind in America and is located on 
 Gi'avier Street, opposite the new St. Charles Hotel. The glories 
 and reputation of this Ambrosial drink have been sung the 
 world over. It's the invention of the "Chesterfieldian" Ramos, 
 and men or women who have once pressed the white foaming 
 "Ramos Gin F'izz" to their lips, can never forget it. It is not 
 an unusual sight in the winter months, and when the Carnival 
 is on in New Orleans, to find this palatial i-esort of Col. Ramos 
 packed not only with men but ladies who have just left the fash- 
 ionable ball-rooms or the French Opera, and are enjoying, be- 
 fore returning home, a "Ramos Gin Fizz" that will take them, 
 after lapsing into the arms of morpheus, into the delightful fan- 
 tasies of dreamland. 
 
 The afternoon is the fashionable time for the ladies to do 
 their shopping on Canal Street in New Orleans, and wherever 
 you find the ladies here you are sure to find the male gender. In 
 
tlie most fashionable block of this shopping boulevard is located 
 the well-known confectionery establishment of Harry Schaum- 
 burg. Here the gentlemen of leisure will saunter in to refresh 
 themselves with a "Rofignac High Ball," which is exhilarating 
 and delicious in taste and flavor. Its inventor was once the 
 Mayor of New Orleans, during the Ancien regime, and tradition 
 lells us that Monsieur le Maire was the most popular official the 
 Crescent City ever had; for on afternoons the Mayor's office 
 was always thronged with visitors desirous of both paying their 
 respects to the Knightly Roflgnac and also enjoying one or two 
 of his delicious "Rofignacs." 
 
 The day's work is over in New Orleans for the average 
 business man by five o'clock in the evening, and if you will cross 
 Canal Street and enter by way of Bourbon Street the Old Latin 
 Quarter you will unconsciously follow the crowd. Having 
 walked some three blocks, you will soon notice on the corner of 
 Conti and Bourbon, only one block from the old French Opera 
 House (where every winter for years dating back to ante-bellum 
 days the old walls have re-echoed with the music of (irand 
 Opera), an old rusty-looking building of Spanish architecture. 
 Most of the crowd seems to stop here — in fact they do, and, 
 entering an old Spanish Courtyard, soon reach the large room 
 with its low ceiling, playing fountains, and antique Spanish 
 furniture, with openings on an old Spanish courtyard, where 
 the flowers fill the air with intoxicating aromas. This is the 
 great rendezvous for both sexes who have come here to partake 
 of that refreshing and exhilarating "Suis-sesse" for which the 
 Old Absinthe House has been famous for over a hundred years. 
 This establishment has been in the hands of one family for a 
 century. The present owner and proprietor of the "Old Ab- 
 sinth House," Don Felix Ferrer, is the grandson of the Knightly 
 Spaniard of the same name who landed in the Colonies, having 
 come to the shores of the New World to e.scape the political 
 persecutions of the Old. 
 
 After indulging in one or two of these delicious "Suissesses" 
 ditt'used by the courteous Senor Felix Ferrer, your appetite has 
 been sharpened like a two-edged sword, and you will find your- 
 self winding your way to the restaurant of "Madame Antoine" 
 to enjoy a "Pompano au Gratin." Whilst waiting for the waiter 
 to serve it you will call for a "Peychaud Cocktail," another of 
 the delicious drinks of that Capital of Epicures whose motto is 
 "Life is what we make it. Let us live whilst we can." "Vivimus 
 dum Vivamus." 
 
C. p. Moorman & Co. 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
1 
 
 As Served at 
 
 ABSINTHE A LA S0I.SSESSE 
 
 
 Ifotel :^re5liR 
 
 One pony White Absinthe. 
 One pony Anisette. 
 
 
 NEW VORK, N. V. 
 
 Dash of Orgeat Syrup. 
 
 (Shake thoroughly and serve with 
 
 
 * 
 
 lizz water). 
 
 
 THE FAJIOUS BRESIXN COCKTAIL 
 
 RA.MOS CIN FIZZ 
 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 
 Juice of two limes. 
 
 
 One-third Orange Gin. 
 
 One tablespoon powdered sugar. 
 
 
 One-third Dubonnet. 
 
 One drink Gin. 
 
 
 ( Frappe thoroughly, strain ami 
 
 Five drops Orange Flower Water. 
 
 
 serve in old fashioned whisky cock- 
 
 Three drops Vanilla Extract. 
 
 
 tail gkiss). 
 
 Fill rest of glass with milk, frappe 
 
 
 BRESLrN FRAPPE 
 
 Ihoroughly and strain. 
 
 
 One pony Kirsh. 
 
 One teaspoonful powdered sugar. 
 
 ^,^/6lA^ 
 
 
 One whisky glass cold strong cof- 
 
 // 
 
 
 fee. 
 
 Maitre de Hotel, 
 
 
 ( Frappe thoroughly and serve in 
 
 Formerly at St. Charles Hotel, 
 
 
 high glass). 
 
 
 
 New Orleans. 
 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 
 
 ^cTLuxe 
 
 
 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 yttxxzb 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 iDrmks 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 PEYCIIAIID COCKTMI. 
 
 Tfotel dabxWac 
 
 
 Use two old fashioned cocktail 
 
 UETKOIT, .\IICU1G,\N 
 
 
 tumblers. 
 
 * 
 
 
 Five drops Absinthe in one. 
 
 ••CADALOQUIAN COCKTAIL" 
 
 
 Five drops Peychaud bitters in the 
 other. 
 
 Drink of Bourbon whisky and ice 
 in the same glass as bitters. (Pour 
 
 Ice. 
 
 .\ few dashes Grenadine. 
 ,\ dash of bitters. 
 .\ few drops of Verniouth. one 
 part Irish whisky. 
 
 
 from one tumbler to the other). 
 
 Stir and strain ami add a few 
 drops acid phosphate. 
 
 
 BOFIGNAC inGHBALL 
 
 EROTME COCKTAIL 
 
 Ice. 
 
 
 Five drops Peychauds Bitters. 
 One slice Orange. 
 One-third Dubonnet. 
 Two-thirds Bourbon Whisky. 
 
 .\ few dashes Orange Bitters. 
 
 A few dashes Maraschino. 
 
 Dry Gin. 
 
 Stir and strain. 
 
 .\dd a flavcir of Crime de Rose 
 
 
 A few lumps of ice. 
 
 wliich flows to bottom and a Creme 
 
 
 (Use two old fashioned mi.xing 
 
 de Menthe Cherry. 
 
 
 glasses. In one have two drops 
 
 ' ^ ■•^ >* _rt yy 
 
 
 Chartreuse, and pour from one to 
 the other). 
 
 ^4 (Y^AA-eZt-^.^ 
 
 Steward. 
 
 
 
 
C. p. Moorman & Co. 
 
 LouisvilU'. Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
 OIvD 
 
 |)« *■ BLENJJED ^11 
 
 ^-^^:^ 
 
 -K D«0(j ACT. APPRO VEO JUNE ^i-' 
 
1 
 
 As Served at 
 
 As Served .\t 
 
 Ol)e Kniversit^ (Tlub 
 
 Ol)e !^ercautiU Club 
 
 ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 
 
 ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 
 * 
 
 brh;hton beach punch 
 
 * 
 OPAIi 
 
 Oiie-tliirJ Anissette. 
 
 One-third Creme de Cucao. 
 
 Oiie-fourth Raspberry Syrup. 
 
 One white of an egg 
 
 Pnt in mixing glass with tine ice 
 and fill up with half cieain and milk. 
 ShaUe well and strain into an eight- 
 ijuiice glass. 
 
 One-half lalilespoun sugar. 
 
 Peel of one-fourth orange. 
 
 Fill the glass with shaved ice. 
 
 One ji,y;ger liourbon whisky. 
 
 Stir thoroughly ard add one dash 
 of Rum. 
 
 Ornament with slice of Orange. 
 
 Srrve in Champa::;ne goblet with 
 straws. 
 
 IMVEKSITY CLUB SPECIAL 
 
 .MERC .VNTILE PUNCH 
 
 The juice of one-hah' '.!me and one- 
 half lemon. 
 
 One spoon of sugar inuggle. 
 
 The lemon and lime put with line 
 ice in a mixing glass. 
 
 One jigger of Sloe Gin. 
 
 Shake well and strain in a tall 
 glass and fill with Cmtier Ale. 
 
 U^e large bar gla^s. 
 
 Il.alf tablespoon -''gar 
 
 White of one egg. 
 
 Juice of one lime. 
 
 Three dashes of Gunaliue. 
 
 Jigger of whisky 
 
 Frappe well and strair 
 
 Serve in small stem punch glass. 
 
 
 ^evera^es 
 ^cTLuxe 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i!)rinks 
 
 
 CLUB COCKTAIL 
 
 
 Half lime juice 
 
 Half pony syrup 
 
 One jigger of Gin 
 
 Six dashes Peychaud bitters. 
 
 Put in mi.xing gk'ss with fine ice 
 
 •■HOIN I».\\V(i" COCKT-\n, 
 
 L'se large bar glass. 
 Two cul;)es of ice 
 
 and shake well. 
 
 .Strain in a cnckta.d glass. 
 
 Peel of one-fourth orange. 
 Ilnc-fourlli jiggir Italian Ver- 
 
 X^. ^ f^^^-^u^ 
 
 niriuth. 
 
 One- fourth jigger F- encii Ver- 
 mouth. 
 
 // 
 
 M.ilf jigger Dry C.Mi. 
 
 U 
 
 One dash Orange P.i-irs. 
 
 Head Bartender. 
 
 One dash Angostura Bitters. 
 Stir well. str;iin and iipieeze piece 
 
 
 of lemon pnd on t(-|i- 
 Serve in Cocklai' gla^s. 
 
 A New Cocktail 
 
 BISLERI COCKTAIL 
 
 /^/? /) 
 
 One part of Bisleri's titters (Ferro 
 China Bisleri). 
 
 Two parts Italian Vermouth. 
 
 Ice, shake, strain and serve in 
 cocktail glass, adding oil of Orange 
 Peel. 
 
 Steward. 
 
 1 
 
W'riifht & Taylor 
 Louisrillc. Ky. 
 Distillers 
 
 OLD CHARTER DISTILLERY 
 
 eSTABLISHeO 1874 
 
 (WRIGHT a TAYLOR. SOLE owners! 
 
 5th district. KENTUCKY 
 
 Whiskev 
 
 >Vi*s;?:i-ED IN BOND UNDER GOVE^f^.^Jclg'^ , 
 '"" TO BE ABSOUUTtLY PUR£«*'' ' 
 

 
 ■~* 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 .As Served at 
 
 
 
 I3l)e ^I^ia^ara (Tlub 
 
 Ol)e !Srooklawa (Tlub 
 
 
 
 NIAGARA FA'-LS, N. Y. 
 
 BKlUGEriiRT, mXNI-XtlCUT 
 
 ft? 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 BROOKL.VWN STEWARD COCKTAIL 
 
 
 
 MAOARA 01.115 Sl'RAV COt KTAIL 
 
 Two shavings of C'r.ar.ge Peel. 
 
 
 
 One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 
 
 One-fifth French Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 One-fourth French Vc-i mouth. 
 
 One-fifth Italian Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 Two-fourths Gordon Dry Gin. 
 
 Three-fifths Dry Gni. 
 
 
 
 Two daslies Oranec liitters 
 
 Twist the Orange Pee! in mi.xing 
 
 
 
 Two dashes Yelljw Chartreuse. 
 
 glass (with peel) add ingredients. 
 
 
 
 Stir well. 
 
 Frappe well. 
 
 
 
 Use Champagne glass, till stem 
 
 Strain and serve ui cocktail glass 
 
 
 
 with Carbonic. 
 
 with tiny piece of Orange peel on 
 
 
 
 One lump of ice. slice orange. 
 
 top. 
 
 
 
 Serve. 
 
 "THE VENCS" 
 
 
 
 NIA<i.Al{.V SUNSET 
 
 The yoke of one egg. 
 
 
 
 (^ne-third Italian Vciuoutli. 
 
 Two-thirds Dry Gin. 
 
 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 
 One-third Creme Yivttte. 
 
 
 
 One-third Dry Gin. 
 
 Sprig of Mint or dash of Creme 
 
 
 
 Slice Orange. Frsppe. 
 
 de Menthe and dash of Lime juice. 
 
 
 
 Coclctail glass, t*'! one-half with 
 
 Frappe well. 
 
 
 
 Grenadine. Serve 
 
 Strain and serve in cocktail glass. 
 
 
 
 <^.^'^ 
 
 
 a h. y^j^-^-i 
 
 
 
 *6everage5 
 
 1 Steuar.l. 
 
 
 
 Sleu.ird, 
 
 ^eTLuxe 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 5llixe6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 brinks 
 
 
 
 .As SERS'En AT 
 
 1 
 
 
 \s Served \t 
 
 
 Ol)e (Tu^amaca (Tlub 
 
 Ob*i Kniversit^ (Tlub 
 
 
 
 s \\ iiiEiif (■ \! irin.'.x i \ 
 
 roUTI. \ \ 1). nk'lCON 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 * 
 ONION COtKT.UI, 
 
 
 
 reaspoonful Grenadine Syrnp. 
 
 l''ill mixing glass up witli tine ice 
 
 
 
 One-half pony brandy. 
 
 Two or three dashes "f (Jrange 
 
 
 
 Pineapple juice. 
 
 r.itters. 
 
 
 
 Seltzer. Ice. 
 
 ( tne-tliird French Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 Mi.x in large highball glass, first 
 
 Two third'- Dry Gin 
 
 
 
 putting in the grenadine syrup, and 
 
 1 bree or fetur da^he^ nt ( tinrMi 
 
 
 
 brandy. The ice is then added, and 
 
 Jnice, 
 
 
 
 tlie remainder of the glass is filled. 
 
 .Stir well and serve in fane\' eock- 
 
 
 
 half and half of jiineapple juice and 
 
 lail glass with small pearl oni"n in 
 
 
 
 ^rltzer. 
 
 ]il.ice of olive. 
 
 
 
 MOIiM.NCi .\ITEU 
 
 
 
 
 Juice of one lemon. 
 
 PACinC COCKT.4IL 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Teaspoonfnl .Absinthe. 
 
 (hie pony of Creme de Cocoa. 
 
 
 
 One egg. 
 
 ' )ne pony of Apricot Brandy. 
 
 
 
 Tablcspoonfnl sugar. 
 
 Put in sliaker full of fine ice. 
 
 
 
 Place in mixing glass with plenty 
 
 Shake w^'ll and ser\'e in small stem 
 
 
 
 "f ice, shake well, and strain into 
 
 -''''^^■. 
 
 
 
 large glass (8 oz.), -.nv] till with 
 
 1 his is ,1 very |ioptiI;ir atlcr din- 
 
 
 
 seltzer. 
 
 ner 1 1 r i n ]< . 
 
 
 
 Steward. 
 
 Manager "f r.uifrt 
 
 
 
 
Old Grand-Dad Distillery Co. 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
As Served at 
 
 LORD 1J.\LTI1U0BE tOCKTAIL 
 
 Ol)e^en6euni5 (Elub 
 
 Pill mixing glass with shaved ice. 
 
 Juice of one-half lime. 
 
 LciriSVILLE. KV. 
 
 One jigger Scotch Whisky. 
 
 * 
 
 One-half jigger Red Curacoa. 
 
 
 .Stir and strain in cocktail glass. 
 
 ANANIAS PUNCH 
 
 
 The juici.- of one dozen lemons 
 
 PEXDEXMS COCKT.UL 
 
 peelcu. 
 
 line jigger Angoslnra Hitters. 
 
 Kill mixing glass with shaved ice. 
 
 'J'liree qniirl-; of Cliamp;ignc. 
 
 Jm'ee of one-half lime. 
 
 One qnarl of Apollinaris. 
 
 One-third jigger Hungarian .Apri- 
 
 One pint of eherrics. 
 Put all the ingredients together in 
 pmu'h bowl, mix uell, iee. and serve 
 
 eotine. 
 
 One jigger Dry Gin. 
 
 in ehanipagnc goblets. 
 
 Stir and strain in cocktail glass. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^Uixe6 
 iDrinKs 
 
 
 PEXDENNIS SnNT JULEI' 
 
 PEM>EXM.S EGGNOO 
 
 L'se silver cup. 
 
 (<.)ne Gallon) 
 
 Onedialf Innip of sngar dissolved 
 with a litlle water; lill cup with 
 
 T.ike the yellow of one dozi-n eggs. 
 
 •^ha\'ed ice. 
 
 One pound grannlati'd sugar. 
 
 (3ne jigger of Kentucky Conrbon 
 
 One teaspoon nnlmeg. 
 
 \\ hisky. mix well with spr>on until 
 
 One-half pnit cream, and he.il well 
 
 frost appears on the cup. 
 
 logether. Then t.d<e one <piart Ken- 
 
 Then take alifiut twid\e sprigs of 
 
 tucky Bourbon Whisky, one (piart 
 
 fresh sweet nnnt, insert them in the 
 
 Cognac, and out- [tint j.nnaic.i Rinn. 
 
 iee, stems downward, sci the leaves 
 
 beat .all together. Take one quart 
 
 will be above, in the sh.ape of a bou- 
 
 rich cream and lie.it until stitT, then 
 
 quet, and serve with straws. 
 
 ,idd the .above mixlure very slowly. 
 
 
 whipiiiiig uiUil well mixed. Serve in 
 
 OLD FASmONEI) TODDV 
 
 pmich cups. 
 
 Dissolve onedialf lum|> of sug.ar 
 
 •^ 
 
 thoroughly. 
 
 ^ ' -4^^\^^ 
 
 One cube of ice. 
 
 5>*«nc^i^^ t^y-^-^'-^-Cm^-L-^ 
 
 One jigger of whisky. 
 
 v^ 
 
 Stir well and serve in toddy glass. 
 
 Superintendent. 
 
Brown-Forman Company 
 
 Louisville. Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
 OF Old KENTWJCf 
 UNDER NATIONAL 
 
 ^0225 
 
 ^fe? 0f"0LD k£nT^CKY VVHiSr. -_ 
 :'^'tED UNDER NATIONAL PV^^ f" 
 
 
 rr.'y 
 
 .f.j_ 
 
 ^K 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 / 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 '^-'-^CcM. . 
 
 ^./t^'^tS< 
 
 ^^-^ 
 
 i 
 
 c;^*^ 
 
 READ THE LABEL TRY IT 
 
As Served at 
 
 m.VMPAGNE CUP 
 
 KnionTLeasuc (Tlub 
 
 I'lepart in crystal pitcher in order 
 
 
 ii.iiiK'd. 
 
 NEW VORK, N. V. 
 
 One pony M.iraschino. 
 
 * 
 
 One pony Orange Curacoa. 
 
 
 One pony French Brandy. 
 
 STEBIJNG EGGNOG 
 
 The juice of i>ne fresh lime and 
 
 
 Ihe rind. 
 
 Be it understood that only the 
 
 (Iiic quart champagne, cold. 
 
 freshest and purest eggs, milk and 
 
 1 )ne bnitlr Chill soda, cold. 
 
 cream, and high class liquors he usrd- 
 
 Ice. 
 
 I'repare in order named. 
 
 Whole slices ( daintily) cut of 
 
 Take two large bowls (capacity 
 
 oranges, pineapples and limes, si.x 
 
 four gallons) separate 24 eggs; yolks 
 
 sprigs of fresh mint, strawberries ou 
 
 in one bowl, whites in another. Beat 
 
 lop. 
 
 the yolks with long wooden spoon 
 
 while adding slowly one and one-half 
 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 
 
 ^eTLuxe j 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 i!)rinKs 
 
 
 pounds of powdered sugar. After 
 
 The above reci|ie may be used also 
 
 tliis is thoroughly smooth, and while 
 
 with the following Cups: 
 
 stirring rapidly, add slowly; 
 
 Claret Cup, two limes. 
 
 Two bottles French Brandy. 
 
 Rhine Wine Cup. two limes. 
 
 One-half bottle St. Croix Rum. 
 
 Moselle Wine Cup. two limes. 
 
 One-half pint Jamaica Rum. 
 
 Sautcrne Cup. two linus. 
 
 One-half pint Arrac. 
 
 Sparkling Cider Cup four limes. 
 
 Two gallons milk. 
 
 
 Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
 
 U.^^^.JA^ 
 
 snowy froth, also one pint of cream, 
 
 and add to the bowl with a large 
 
 C7 
 
 piece of ice. 
 
 Steward. 
 
 When served in glasses, grate a 
 
 
 little nutmeg on top. 
 
 
Old Kentucky Distillery 
 
 hnnrptirati-il 
 
 Louisiille. Ky. 
 Distillers 
 
 
As Served at 
 
 .■\s Served at 
 
 ^lewyorkT^ltbUticdlub 
 
 Obe (Talumet (Tlub 
 
 NEW VOKK ( TKAVEKS ISLAND), N. Y. 
 
 CHICAGO. ILLINOIS 
 
 * 
 OKANGE BLOSSOM 
 
 CALIMET COCKTAIL 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 One-third Italian Vermouth. 
 One-third Gordon Gin. 
 Plenty of orange juice. Frappe. 
 Serve in whisky glass. 
 
 Three dashes of .Acid Phosphad. 
 One dash of .\ngostura Bitters, 
 ("incj-half jigger of Bourbon 
 Whisky. 
 (Jne-half jigger of Italian Ver- 
 
 THE LADIES DREAM 
 
 (3nc-half Maraschino. 
 One-half Cream Yvette. 
 Thick Cream on top. 
 Serve in sherry glass. 
 
 mouth. 
 
 Stir and strain into a cocktail 
 .glass. 
 
 KLONDIKE 
 
 Pare an orange as >"(.iu would an 
 
 TBAVERS ISLAND COCKT.\IL 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 One-third Plymonth Gin. 
 One-third Duhonnet. Frappe. 
 Serve in cocktail glass. 
 
 apple. 
 
 Use the juice of one ^r.-iuge. 
 
 One jigger of whisky. 
 
 Shake and strain in a large gl.ass 
 and fill with liottle Ginger .Xle. 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 brinks 
 
 
 SAVAGE COCKTAIL 
 
 riNE TREE 
 
 C)ne-third Italian Vermnulh. 
 Two-thirds Rye Whisky. 
 Orange peel. Frappe. 
 Serve in cocktail glass. 
 
 DR. BIRCH COCKTAIL 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 Two-thirds Nicholson Gin. Frappe. 
 Serve in cocktail glass. 
 (The two above cocktails are 
 nanicMl for two members of the 
 
 Two-thirds jigger of Tom (iin. 
 
 One-third jigger of Italian Ver- 
 mouth. 
 
 Three sprigs of mint broken into 
 small pieces, put in mixing glass with 
 Iwo or three piecese of ice, and shake 
 long enough to break the mint small 
 .■nough to pass through strainer. 
 Strain into cocktail glass and leave 
 the small pieces ..f mint ibxit on top. 
 
 Club. ) 
 
 THE FAVORITE 
 
 Juice of one lime. 
 Three or four sprigs of mini 
 crushed. 
 
 One drink nf Gordon Gin. 
 One bottle of imported Ginger .Me. 
 Fill with fine ice and serve. 
 (This makes a fine summer drink.) 
 
 GROCE COCKT.VIL 
 
 Two-thirds jigger of Tom Gin. 
 
 One-third jigger of liali.an Ver- 
 mouth. 
 
 ( )ne-fourth jigger of tirape Fruit 
 juice. 
 
 One-half glass of shaved ice. Shake 
 and strain into cocktail glass. 
 
 <^^^ (^^^^...^-^-^rS^ 
 
 ^^^4^ 7r /^^/^f 
 
 Steward. 
 
 \ ' 
 
 Steward. 
 
Bernhcim 
 
 Distilling 
 
 Co. 
 
 Louisiille. hy. 
 Dislillen 
 
 l^ 
 
 ThePhil. 
 
 Hollcnhach 
 
 Co. 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 Distillers 
 
 Bcrnheim 
 
 f)istillinc/ 
 
 Co. 
 
 t.iiiiisritU: hy. 
 
 l)islitU-rs 
 
 D. Sachs 
 c{: Sons 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 Distillers 
 
 ^\mAfi 
 
As Served at 
 
 As SeRVT.D AT 
 
 Mlaaufacturcrs' (Tlub 
 
 C3l)e (Toutitrv (Tlub 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. PENNSYLVANIA 
 
 BROOKLINE, M .\SS,\CII USETTS 
 LONE-TREE COCKTAII, 
 
 * 
 
 
 One-third Italian Vermouth. 
 
 EASTER TONIC 
 
 Two-thirds Old Tom Gin. 
 
 One-half gallon Milk. 
 
 Shake well in cracked ice and 
 
 
 strain. 
 
 One Pint Brandy. ( Whisky can 
 
 
 be used.) 
 
 .\HIERICAX BE.VUTY tOCKT.\IL 
 
 One-fourth Pint Rum. 
 
 One-third French Vermouth. 
 
 Yolks of eight eggs, ihoronghly 
 
 Two-thirds Old Tom Gin. 
 
 beaten. 
 
 Juice of half a lime. 
 
 Shake well in cracked ice and 
 
 One-half pound pulverized sugar. 
 
 strain. 
 
 Mix well the eggs, sugar and milk. 
 
 M.*jnE T.VVLOR'S SISTER 
 
 then add brandy and rum, nutmeg to 
 
 One good-sized drink of Dry Gin. 
 
 taste. Beat whites of eggs to perfect 
 
 One Lime squeezed and dropped in. 
 One bottle of Ginger Ale. 
 
 froth and stir mixture thoroughly. 
 
 For larger qu.anlitx-. increase in 
 
 One cube of ice. 
 
 proportion. 
 
 Serve in extra large glass. 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 iDrlnks 
 
 
 
 Cr.OVER-LE.\F COCKTAIL 
 
 i-oor JFizz 
 
 
 
 Juice of a lime. 
 
 Use a large glass. 
 
 Teaspoonful of Grenadine Syrup. 
 
 Three-fourtlis tablcspoonfnl of 
 
 White of one egg. 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 One-half jigger of Dry Gin. 
 
 Shake well in cracked ice and 
 
 One egg, both white and yolk. 
 
 strain . 
 
 One Wine Glass of Gordon Gin. 
 
 Float a Mint Leaf. 
 
 The Juice of One Lemon. 
 
 
 Fill glass with fine ice and shake 
 
 BELLS EYE CUP 
 
 well. 
 
 One pint of sparkling cider. 
 
 Strain in large glass and ,idd .\[)iil- 
 
 One pint of Imported Ginger Ale. 
 
 linaris Water. 
 
 One glass of brandy. 
 Ice and fruit in season. 
 
 
 
 Serve in large glass pitcher, with 
 
 /^^^-Z^^^ y^P 
 
 a few sprigs of Mint. 
 
 y'<^^§L^^^^ 
 
 GREEN LIZARD 
 
 '/^ 
 
 One drink of Gin. 
 
 Stcwnnl 
 
 Green Menthe enough to color. 
 
 
 Juice of one Lime. 
 
 
 One bottle of Club Soda. 
 
 
 t)ne cnho of ice. 
 
 
 .Serve in extra large .glass. 
 
Green River 
 
 Distilling 
 
 Co. 
 
 Owensboro. Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
 ^msx3ss^ 
 
 The 
 
 Freiberg & 
 
 Workum 
 
 Co. 
 
 Cinciiinati, O. 
 Distillers 
 
 Ph. 
 
 Hamburger 
 
 Co. 
 
 I'iltsburgh, Pa. 
 Distillers 
 
 BRtDQEPORl 
 
 ''ONONGAHELA 
 
 lur JlKiislif!! 
 
 "•"BURGER DisraU"' 
 
 Thompson 
 
 Distilling 
 
 Co. 
 
 I'illshurgh, fa. 
 Distillers 
 
 RURE RY6' 
 

 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 As Served at 
 
 
 
 Knion^eague (Tlub 
 
 UndianapoUs (Tlub 
 
 
 
 I'HII.AUELl'IIIA. PENNSVIA'AMA 
 
 * 
 
 WHISKV PUNCH 
 
 INDIA NAPOI.LS, INDIANA 
 
 
 
 RICHELIEU COCKTAIL 
 
 
 
 One portion whisky. 
 
 One-half jigger Dubonnet. 
 
 
 
 Juice of one lemon. 
 
 One-half jigger Flennessy XXX. 
 
 
 
 One pony Curacon. 
 
 One-half jigger Italian Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 ( )iie flash St. Croix Kiiiii. 
 
 Two dashes Peychaud. 
 
 
 
 Sugar. 
 
 Two pieces orange peel ; sqeeze in 
 
 
 
 Shake well, and serve in siii:ill gob- 
 ht with :i slice of Orani;r .ami Pine- 
 
 shaking cup. 
 
 
 
 Proceed in the same way other 
 
 
 
 .ipple. 
 
 cocktails are made, and place cherrv 
 
 
 
 DOBRIXCE COCKTAIL 
 
 in glass. 
 
 
 
 Une-third Italian Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 
 Two-thirds Gordon Gmi. 
 
 /? /9 
 
 
 
 One Slice of Orange Peel. 
 
 ( -^ 
 
 
 
 Sliake well. 
 
 Serve in silver cooler 
 
 cd^ 
 
 —-y ^-tc ^ 
 
 
 ^^?^^^^^^.^^^^ 
 
 
 «OODMAX COCKT.^II. 
 
 Maii.'igi.T. 
 
 
 
 (Jne-third French Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 
 Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 
 
 
 
 
 Orange Rind and Frappe. 
 
 ST.Ul COCKT.VIL 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^xV 
 
 
 One-third Italian 
 
 Vermouth. 
 Two-thirds Apple Jack. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 !5tlixe6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AJIERIC.4N BEAUTY 
 
 
 
 
 One-third Italian 
 
 Vermouth. 
 Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 
 
 T)rink5 
 
 
 
 
 A little lime juice. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 
 
 ZEELAXD COCKTAIL 
 
 
 
 
 One-third Italian Vermouth. 
 
 ObeTElKs' (Tlub 
 
 
 
 Two-thirds Jamaica Rum. 
 
 
 
 Three dashes Russian Kummel. 
 
 NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA 
 
 
 
 AITEB-DINNEB COCKTAIL 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 One-half jigger Apricot Brandy. 
 
 
 
 
 One-half jigger White Alenthe. 
 
 MeGBONEY PDNCH 
 
 
 
 One dash Russian Kummel. 
 
 One tablespoonfu! powdered sugar. 
 
 
 
 Juice of one-half Lime and Frappe. 
 
 Two tablespoonfuls Lime Juice. 
 
 
 
 HOT IKON 
 
 One teaspoonful Raspberry Syrup. 
 A dash of Kirschwasser. 
 
 
 
 (Will make two drinks.) 
 
 lialf gill of Rye whisky. 
 
 
 
 Juice of one-half Grape Fruit. 
 
 One tablespoonful of Rum. 
 
 
 
 (Jne-half jigger of Benedictine. 
 
 Enough Seltzer to half Till lemon- 
 
 
 
 One jigger brandy. 
 
 ade glass. 
 
 
 
 (jnc jigger Apricot brandy. 
 
 Stir well and fill glass with cracked 
 
 
 
 Shake well and serve in a small 
 
 ice. 
 
 
 
 beer glass or claret glass. 
 
 BAMAKOOL.4 
 
 
 
 J.VCK ROSE COCKT.VIL 
 
 One-half Itali.;n Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 Juice of One-half Lime. 
 
 One-half French Vermouth. 
 
 
 
 One-third Grenadine. 
 
 Dash Byrrh Bitters. 
 
 
 
 Two-thirds .Apple Brandy. 
 
 Fill glass with cracked ice. 
 
 
 
 Shake well. 
 
 ^^ , ^ /^ 
 
 
 
 Serve in cocktail glass. 
 
 C^^^^'TT^ 
 
 
 
 ^>^=^^.i^^-<::=^='-^^(^&iyi^ CK^ .- 
 
 Steward. 
 
 
 
 /y Steward. 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 
 _ 
 
Taylor & 
 \\ ilUiims 
 
 /.iiuisiillc. I\fi. 
 Distillers 
 
 ki^ WHISKEY. 
 
 Ijiiisviiu.Im 
 
 /;i;." 
 
 Schenley 
 
 /)istilli)u/ 
 
 Co. 
 
 Lucesco, Pit. 
 Dislillers 
 
 Bottled in bond 
 
 SCHENLEY DISTILLING CO. 
 
 I->l STl Ll-C R& 
 
 The 
 A wcricitn 
 Distilliiii/ 
 
 Co. 
 
 I\kin. Ill 
 ni-lilli'rs 
 
 i 
 
 Bluthcnthal 
 & Bickart 
 
 Ballitnorv. Md. 
 Dislilkrs 
 
 MARK 
 ROGER 
 
 ««YURt 
 WIISKET 
 
As Served at 
 
 Ob<i 'Waldorf-Astoria 
 
 NEW YIIRK, N, Y. 
 HAZEI/rON COCKTAIL 
 
 (Jnu-half Nicholson (iiii. 
 One- fourth French Vcrniuutli. 
 One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 
 Frappe with a few sprigs of fresh 
 mint. 
 
 Serve in cocktail glass. 
 
 tiOOD TIMKS CtXKTAIL 
 
 Two-thirds Tom Gin. 
 
 ( liir-tliird French Vermouth. 
 
 Stir .and strain. 
 
 Ser\e in cocktail glass. 
 
 WAI^UOllF ROSE 
 
 ll.ilf Dry Gin. 
 I ln< -fiinrth Apple Whisk\-. 
 < )ne-foin"th Grenailine. 
 juice of one Lime, 
 k'r.ippe thoroughly. 
 
 :^ 
 
 evcrages 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 ^ixe6 
 brinks 
 
 As Served .\t 
 
 Auditorium Tfotel 
 
 Aii>iTORii!M r.iN nzz 
 
 Regular Gin Fizz with white of 
 eg.e. 
 
 Put in sprig of mint wlien served. 
 
 ISItAIN DUSTKK 
 
 Juice of one-half Lime. 
 Three dashes Peychaud liitlers. 
 One-half pony .Absinthe. 
 One-half pony Anisette. 
 White of egg. 
 Frappe. 
 
 ri!IN< i:SS <<»( Ki'AIL 
 
 One-lhird Fre:ich \'ermouth. 
 One-third Italian Vermouth. 
 One-third Ahsinthe. 
 Frappe. 
 
 AllDITORIl'M COCKTjVIL 
 
 One-half jigger Dry Gin. 
 One-third ji.g.ger French 
 Vermouth. 
 
 M-appe. 
 
 CLOVER CLUB 
 
 juice of half lemon. 
 White of an egg. 
 Half teaspoonful powdered sugar. 
 < )ne drink of Plymouth Gin. 
 I )nr pi'Uy Raspberry Syrup. 
 I''r.ip|>e tlioroughly .and serve in 
 el.irei ghi'-s with a sprig of mint on 
 
 lop. 
 
 VVALDOKF Q^JEB^'S 
 
 Two slices pineapple well nuid- 
 
 <lle,l. 
 
 One-half Dry Gin. 
 One-fourth French Vermouth. 
 One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 
 Sm.ill piece of or.ange well trapped. 
 
 W.VLDORF SI'KCIAI, 
 
 juice of one Lime. 
 ( Ine drink Apricotine 
 Frappe thorouglily and serve in 
 cocktail glass. 
 
 d^eSTzf 
 
 ^e 
 
 ^alv<jJL 
 
 Manager. 
 
 AiuiTomi.M <;i: 
 
 juice one-half lime 
 Small toddy. 
 Spoonful Grenadine 
 Three-fourths jigger 
 
 Brandy. 
 Frappe. 
 
 Syrup. 
 .\pple 
 
 WILD IRISH ROSE 
 
 Use highball .glass. 
 
 One-half lime muddleil. 
 
 Small toddy. 
 
 Spoonful Grenadine S)rup. 
 
 Three-fourths jigger \r\A\ Whisky. 
 
 Lump highhall ice. 
 
 Fill nj) with seltzer. 
 
 rOOTE'S SUMMER SOllR 
 
 juice one-half lemon. 
 
 Three-fourths jigger good r.otn-bcHi 
 wliisky. 
 
 One dessert spoonful sirgar. 
 
 Frappe . 
 
 Serve in regular [\/?. glass, with 
 Imnp highliall ice. and fill up with 
 still water. Gin, lu'anrly. Scotch, or 
 anv liquor ilc^irrd can be used in 
 this drink, and makes a delightful 
 summei' 1)everage. 
 
 Manager Litpior Department. 
 
Felton & Son 
 
 Boston. Mass. 
 
 Distillers 
 
As Served at 
 
 Hfotel ^elve6erc 
 
 BALTIMORE, MARYLAND 
 
 FROZEN RYE 
 
 Juice of half lime. 
 
 Few dashes orange juice. 
 
 Few dashes pineapple syrup. 
 
 Few dashes orange Curncoa. 
 
 Balance rye whisky. 
 
 Frozen Scotch or gin same as rye. 
 
 Serve in large champagne glass. 
 Put slice of orange and slice of pine- 
 apple in glass, allowing same to stick 
 out beyond top uf glass. Fill same 
 witli fine ice and pour drink over 
 same, with cherry on top. Serve 
 with straw. 
 
 MOON COCKT.4II, 
 
 Distinctly Our Own 
 
 Few dashes of Grenadine Syrup. 
 One-sixth of Italian Vermouth. 
 One-sixth of French. Vermouth. 
 Two-thirds Apple Brandy'. 
 Stirred witli spoon or shaken. 
 Cocktail glass. 
 
 BELVEDERE COCKT.Ul, 
 .V tiortd Morning Bracer 
 
 (.)nc-lhird Italian Vermouth. 
 (")ne-thiril Gunlf.n Gnr 
 One-third Irish Whisky. 
 Few dashes of .Absinthe. 
 Cocktail glass. 
 Well frapped. 
 
 leverages 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 5tlixe6 
 brinks 
 
 ROYAL SMILE 
 
 Juice of half a lime. 
 One-fourth Grenadine Syrup. 
 One-fourth Gordon Gin. 
 One-half Apple Brandy. 
 Cocktail glass. 
 
 CLOVER CLUB 
 
 Juice of lime. 
 
 Few dashes of Grenadine Syrup. 
 
 (Due-sixth Italian Vermouth. 
 
 One-sixth French Vermouth. 
 
 Two-thirds gin. 
 
 Add white of an egg. Frappc well. 
 
 Dress with three mint leaves on 
 edge of glass. 
 
 Serve in claret glass. 
 
 In season use raspberries instead of 
 Grenadine. Macerate the raspber- 
 ries with muddler. 
 
 PERKECT COCKT.^IL 
 
 One-sixth Italian Vermouth. 
 One-sixth French Vermouth. 
 Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 
 Well frapped with p'cce of orange 
 ]iee!. 
 
 Cocktail glass. 
 
 PICK .ME ur 
 
 Juice ipf ulinle oi'ange. 
 Jig.ger of gin. 
 White of an egg. 
 Highball glass. 
 Well frapped. 
 
 Wine Steward. 
 
Canvtt 
 tt Cu. 
 
 Xorfolk. \'a. 
 
 Miituihuttirvrs 
 
 m 
 
 WKIMTN I 
 
 Garrett 
 «£- Co. 
 
 Norfolk. V'a. 
 Manufacturers 
 
 The 
 
 M. Hommel 
 
 Wine Co. 
 
 S mduski/. (). 
 Manufacturers 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 * "i^ 
 
 *'Hdmmel 
 
 j^I^ITt SUPERIEUtf ^ 
 
 
 ^^■■^ 
 
 
 The 
 
 Duroy & 
 
 Haines Co. 
 
 Sandusky, O. 
 Manufacturers 
 
 Gol(|(^^^<r^dr 
 
As Served at 
 
 S.\ZERAC COCKT.VIL 
 
 
 StCbarl^slfotel 
 
 .\ famous Southern cocktail, which 
 has the biggest call in the market in 
 the South and repLaces our .X'orthern 
 
 
 \EU liKLEA.NS, Lol.ilhlAX A 
 
 .Manhattan. 
 
 
 * 
 
 Smash lump of ':ugar in old faslmjn 
 
 
 cocktail glass. 
 
 
 ST. CHARI.KS t'OOI.KR 
 
 .\dd three drops Peych.aud Hitters, 
 
 
 This drink is Ihc most sunihiii!; 
 
 Two drops Angostnr.i. 
 
 
 ami cold svimnnir drink, nuicli liked 
 
 1 Ine drink good rye whisky. 
 
 
 liv everybody who has tried il. .ind 
 
 Ice and strain to another ice-cold 
 
 
 is at present making a hit; hit. 
 
 old-fashion cocktail glass wilh :i dash 
 
 
 Serve like highball in Tom Collins 
 
 of Absinthe in. then sipice/e oil of 
 
 
 glass with ice. 
 
 li,inon peel. 
 
 
 Jnico of one lennMi. 
 
 
 
 (")ne drink of gin 
 
 ■TlIK THREE (iRACES" COCKTAII, 
 
 
 < )ne-half drink of ("rrenadine S\ rnp. 
 
 For [lersiins fond of Verimulh or 
 
 
 ,\ild Seltzer {<• laste 
 
 Duljonnet, this has the richest lla\-or 
 
 
 ST. (II-VKI.KS < IICIvi'.MI, 
 
 .and pleasain .aronia, .as well as taste, 
 and is consiilered to give an unus- 
 
 
 
 
 Jiiiee of one hnie. 
 
 ually strong appettite. 
 
 
 White of line egg. 
 
 One-third Dnhonnc-t. 
 
 
 d'hree liflhs (."".nrilmi Ciin. 
 
 (">ne-thiril French Verinonii' 
 
 
 Two-hfths (irenailine or l\as|il)erry 
 
 ( hie-third ( )ran'4i; ( iin. 
 
 
 S> rnp. 
 
 Frajipe and str.nn to cockl.iil glass 
 
 
 l'rap|ie and strain In eneklail glass 
 
 
 
 and serve with a mint leaf on top. 
 
 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 
 
 
 . ^i>-«i 
 
 
 
 
 i)e ILuxe 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ixe6 
 brinks 
 
 
 
 RUSSIAN CO( liT.VII, 
 
 
 
 .\ drink which is in the List year 
 
 O.JEN tOCKI All. 
 
 
 much appreciated in the Northern 
 
 or 
 
 
 p.irt of Europe, and is lately intro- 
 
 SP.VNISH ABSINTHE (<)( KTAII. 
 
 
 duced here, where it has proven to be 
 
 
 
 appreciated by connoisseurs. 
 
 Is much used in .Vexv Orleans, and 
 
 
 Three-fifths Vodka. 
 
 lielongs to the ilrinks which made 
 
 
 Two-fifths f<uhinoy (a Russian 
 
 New Orleans famous, l'"or people 
 
 
 cherry cordial made id' cherry 
 
 who like absiinhe. llns is \rr\ ap- 
 
 
 stones.) 
 
 petizing. 
 
 
 Frappe and str.iined. 
 
 One drink (.)jen in large glass of 
 
 
 I This drink is \cr>- strong.) 
 
 ice, keep on dropping Selt/er in 
 
 
 
 
 HICKORY (OCKT.VII, 
 
 glass, and stir with spoon until the 
 
 
 Supposed to 111.' origin.ited b\- old 
 
 outside of glass is frozen, and your 
 
 
 General Hickory, and ;iuuh n-.ed in 
 
 cocktail is fmisbed. Tin n add a few 
 
 
 Xew Orleans. 
 
 drops of Feychaud Xew ( Irleaiis I'.il 
 
 
 One-half French \'ernioulh. 
 
 lers, and str.im to a cockl.ail .gl.iss. 
 
 
 ()ne-half Tlalian X'ermnnth. 
 
 
 
 ( )ne teaspoonfnl .\nii I'ienn. 
 
 
 
 Iced and strained to cocktail gl.iss. 
 
 
 
 then squeeze oil of a piece of lemon 
 
 
 
 therein. 
 
 
 
A. & H. 
 
 Sancho's 
 
 Anumlillado 
 Pun Quixote 
 
 Samuel ^ 
 StreitCo. ^ 
 
 Impiirling 
 . Xiients 
 
 Ai'ic York 
 
 
 
 
 DON QUIXOTI 
 
 
 Sonn Bros. 
 Co. 
 
 IVew York 
 
 Importing 
 Agents 
 
 G. Ceribelli 
 & Co. 
 
 New York 
 
 Importing 
 Agents 
 
 J*^'-' » C. ikwIyom, wi iuiKl la*'-'* ' 
 
 Moehriny 
 & Co. 
 
 Xew York 
 
 Importing 
 Agents 
 
 WNERALE UA' ^v.^t 
 
 VICHY 
 
 luRCED!!^ 
 

 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 -•\s Served at 
 
 
 
 St.CbarlesTfotel 
 
 TfotcllLa Salle 
 
 
 
 NEW ORLEANS. MiriSIANA 
 
 CIIICAIjO, ILLINOIS 
 
 * 
 1..V SAI.LE COCKTAIL 
 
 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 A KKJAII 
 
 One ounce \V\.ii:il I'nckink Rnni 
 Puncli. 
 
 Two ounce-; old liramly. 
 
 l''ra|i|ie and ser\e in ^^niall Burlou 
 Ale ala-^s — enough for two. 
 
 The juice of one-sixteemh of an 
 ordinary grape fruit. 
 
 Equal parts of Dry Gm and Italian 
 \'eruioutii. 
 
 Frapped and served in a cocktail 
 gl.iss, nsin.g the large wliite grape in 
 place of the cherry or olive. 
 
 
 
 A I'EQl'OT I'IZZ 
 
 One and one-half ounces PI 
 gin. 
 
 Juice of one-half lime. 
 One teas.poonful of sugar. 
 One-half white of one egg. 
 Three sprigs of mint. 
 Well shaken with coarse ict 
 Strain and fizz with carbonic 
 
 \moiUh 
 water. 
 
 r.\ SALLE FIZZ 
 
 The LaSalle Fizz is made from the 
 juice of one-half of an orange, one- 
 sixth of grapefruit, one tahlespoonful 
 of sugar, one jigger of Gin, and pre- 
 pari-d and served as other Fizzes. 
 
 
 t&<2.vera3e5 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 u 
 
 Wine Stew.ard. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i!)rinKs 
 
 
 
 
 
 As Served at 
 
 
 
 .V I'EQIOT l»E I.I'XE 
 
 ^ort Orange (Tlub 
 
 
 
 One ounce Old Brown Sherr\. 
 
 .\LBANV, N. V. 
 
 
 
 One ounce old brandy. 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 One ounce of J.nnaica Rum. 
 
 •■aLXE BIG" 
 
 
 
 Peel i.if a whole lemon and one slice 
 
 Large bar glass full of finely 
 
 
 
 of inside. 
 
 One egg. 
 
 Three ounces suyar. 
 
 One-fourth [liiit nf cream. 
 
 Shaken well with coarse ice. 
 
 Served in small stetu pimch glasses 
 — enough fur four .glasses. 
 
 chopped ice. 
 
 Juice of one lime. 
 One jigger Plymouth Gin. 
 One bottle C. & C. Ginger Ale. 
 Three or four sprigs nnnt. 
 
 I-KKSIOEST COCKTAIL 
 
 ( )ne-third French W'rmonth, N. P. 
 
 Twii-thirds Gordon GitL 
 
 Two dashes Chartreuse Yellow. 
 
 Orange Peel. 
 
 Frappe and strain into cockt.iil 
 
 
 
 
 Ldns^ \ sr ^liMit sir.-iw. 
 
 
 
 Steuanl. 
 
 Manager. 
 
 
 
 
 
The 
 
 Flcisch- 
 
 mann Co. 
 
 New York 
 
 Distillers 
 
 Baird- Daniels 
 
 Co. 
 
 .Wew York 
 
 Dislillers 
 
 
 1 °: 
 
 00 
 
 BK3?5^ 
 
 tfc Co. 
 
 Peoria, III. 
 
 Dislillers 
 

 Some jF'ainous -Ancestral 
 
 ECCNOG 
 
 
 !^lugrass ^cccipcs 
 
 One dnzen leaspoonfuls of grann- 
 hited sugar. 
 
 Si.K cocktail glassfuls of Bourbon 
 
 
 * 
 
 • whisky. 
 
 Five cocktail glassfuls of rum. 
 
 
 KUNTrCKY ^UNT Jl I,Kl> 
 
 Three cocktail gla.ssl'uls of apple 
 
 
 Select twelve full spvigs of mini 
 
 brandy. 
 
 
 with long" stems, twist the Imnch 
 
 Three cockl.iil gla-'^fu!? of Prench 
 
 
 
 
 twice, and st.nul them in n julep 
 
 brandy. 
 
 
 glass. 
 
 
 
 Fill with linely crushed ice and 
 
 tOiK- wlKde nutme.g. grated. 
 
 
 
 
 pour over this one heapiiig teaspoon- 
 
 P>e;il the yolks of li.urleen eggs 
 
 
 ful of granulated sugar th.at has been 
 
 uiUil very liglit. 
 
 
 thoroughly dissolved in two lahle- 
 
 Add sugar, and Ijeal again until 
 
 
 spoonfuls of hot water 
 
 thoroughly dissolved 
 
 
 Stir slightly to chill. 
 
 Then add half of the whites that 
 
 
 Fill glass with old P.ourlion whisky, 
 
 h.ive been beaten separately until very 
 
 
 pour carefully that all the whisky 
 
 stitf. 
 
 
 may stand on top of the water. 
 
 Beat mixture agani, ,u.d add. first 
 
 
 Let set for ahout one minute, and 
 
 whisky, then rum, thci; brandy, a 
 
 
 stir hefore drinking. 
 
 glass at a time, stirring all the while. 
 
 
 Place springs of niinr on one side 
 
 Now stir in nutmeg. 
 
 
 of the cup and drink from the other. 
 
 -Add three pints of fre-,h cream, let 
 
 
 
 leverages 
 
 
 
 
 . *— ^f^ 
 
 
 
 
 iDe ILuxe 
 
 Recipes for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5tlixe5 
 iDrinks 
 
 
 
 Ol-n F.\SIIIOJf KENTVCKY .VPri.E 
 
 stand a while (it possible over 
 
 
 TODDY 
 
 night) and then beat in three pints 
 
 
 or 
 
 of wdiipped cream that has stood in 
 
 
 .\rri,E ,j.\(K 
 
 freezer until thoroughly chilled. 
 
 
 
 Serve in old-fashion (ggnog cups. 
 
 
 Select one dozen nppies and core. 
 
 
 
 but do not peel. 
 
 
 
 Bake dry until nearly done, when 
 
 OLD KEXTPCKY TODDY 
 
 
 pour on them one pin' of scalding 
 
 Take .1 large silver goblet or a 
 
 
 water and one heaping pint ol gran- 
 
 
 ulated sugar. 
 
 large toddy glass. 
 
 
 Let cook done, scr)rching .1 little 
 
 Fill tuo-thirds fnl. with small 
 
 
 lirown on boltoni 
 
 lumps of ice (not too small, how- 
 ever). 
 
 
 Pour all in a Iiowl ;'nd adil one 
 
 
 
 quart of Bourbon whisky and one 
 
 Add one dessert s[)Oonfnl of granu- 
 
 
 quart of apple brandy. 
 
 lated su.gar that has beti: previously 
 
 
 
 dissolved in one teaspoonful of wa- 
 
 
 One-half nutmeg grated. 
 
 ter. 
 
 
 A small pinch of brown cloves. 
 
 Stir until there is a cold frost on 
 
 
 The gratetl peel of one orange 
 
 cup. 
 
 
 (using only the very yellow part. 
 none of the white). 
 
 Then Idl with old Bourbon whisky. 
 
 
 -.aving room for one c'-ssi-rt spoon- 
 
 
 .Add water to suit l.asle of ihe 
 
 ful of fine peach brandy. 
 
 
 ilrinkcr. 
 
 flip off with a long, very thin 
 
 
 Serve hot in small slarbet gl.asses. 
 
 piece nf oraii,ge peel 
 
Geo. A. 
 Dickel 
 & Cu. 
 
 Mashville, 
 Tenn. 
 
 Distillers 
 
 EOAQlCKEL^Ca^ 
 
 IV»'[jl.STlLLEi?v <, 
 
 Italo- 
 
 American 
 
 Stores 
 
 Xc'if )'ork 
 
 Imparlini) 
 Agents 
 
 §twpuf^l 
 
 'ma^k^i 
 
 y SOCIIT* (MfOHIM* 
 
 The 
 
 (Juinine- 
 
 1 1 hisky Co. 
 
 Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Distillers 
 
 miNE-AVJiis: 
 
 "W»llC»t -MIKkl AM p.. 
 
 WWM "\;ii<k\ TlV. Inui*>** 
 
 T o i> N r I 
 
 Italo- 
 
 A merican 
 
 Stores 
 
 Xeif York 
 
 Importing 
 Agents 
 
LIBRARY OF 
 
 CONGRESS 
 
 014 755 884 3