F 74 Si E8 Copy 2 PRICE TEN" CENTS. jfirst |^lt«rcl\ IN SALEM, MASS., 1634. Si\LEM : PI'BLISIIRD BY THE KSSEX IN.STITCTK 1S71. Publications of the Essex Institute. Journal oi' the Essex County Natural His- TOKY SociKTV. 1 vol. 8vo. 1836-1852. pp 135 i"P'»I^«'-' 80 51 ,/^""d l,i( I KOCKRDINGS AND CoMMVNICATION.S. .SVO. C VOls. 1848-18(58. [The Proceediii;,'.s close with tlie •sixth volume.] The .series, in hhiuIkm-.s, . . j.s „., Bound in cloth, .,. ,,(1 Those volumes contuiu a lar^',. number of descriptions and figures of new species, especially of Corals, Insect^ and Pulyzoa; and many valuable papers on Natural IIi>. toiy. The first three volumes also contain nianv import- ant Historical papers. lu addition to the papers on special suljjects, the volumes contain the proceidin-s of the meetings of the Institute, the reconls of ad.litions to the library and museum, and many im|)ortant verbal com- munications made at the meetings, etc. Tlie Xalumlists^ Directorii is also issued with vols. iv. and v. BiLMcriN. 8vo. Issued in monthly parts of about 1 INTRODUCTION. t^ —-X'^SKHV^- ^HE increasing interest in tlie frame of the First Building erected for the First Church JT in Salem in 1634, now the property of the Essex Institute, and placed in the rear of the Society's rooms, Plummer Hall, Salem, author- ize the printing, in a separate form from the publica- tions of the Institute, of the Reports of a Committee appointed in 1859 to investigate the authenticity of the traditions in relation thereto. This building was first placed upon the site of the present First Church, on the south-eastern corner of Essex and Washington streets, a spot consecrated to this sacred use from the earliest period. On the erection of the second edifice it was removed, and during the past century or century and a half, liad been located for manj' j'^ears on the Proctors' estate, rear of Boston street, where it was used first as a dwelling or an inn, and afterwards as a barn or a place for the storage of tools and rubbish. Through the liberality, and under the direct super- vision, of the late Col. Francis Peabody* of Salem, when the building was taken down in 18(J4, the frame was carefully preserved, restored to its orig- inal mortices and placed within a good external covering. It is accessible to visitors on application to the Assistant Librarian of the Institute. In 1865, Tablets were placed on the western face of the building, now standing on the original site, by the energy and enterprise of the late George A. Ward, Esq., who was an enthusiast in all that relates to the early history' of Salem. These tab- lets contain the following inscriptions : "On the 20th of July, 1629, a da^^ set apart by order of t i- ^ John Lndicoxt, then Governorof MassachusettsBay, the first settlers *Mr. Peabody, at the time of his decease. October 31, 18G7, and for several years pri^vious, was President of the Institute. met for the purpose of establishing a Church, which was fully orgauized the 6th of August ; Samuel Skelton was elected Pastor, and Francis HiofiiNSON, Teacher. Their imraediate successors were Roger Williams, 1G31, and Hugh Peters, in 1036. "The frame of the First "Meeting House," in which the civil affairs of tlie colon}' were also trans- acted is preserved, and now stands in the rear of Pluinmer Hall. It was erdarged in 1639. The sec- ond Meeting House was built in 1670, the third in 1718, the fourth in 1826, — all omthis spot." " The Provincial House of Assembly, convened in the Court House, which stood on the contiguous lot now included in Washington street, Resolved on the 17th of June, 1774, that a congress of the ' several colonies on this continent is highly ex- pedient and necessary,' and elected delegates to said congress. Governor Gage forthwith dissolved the House. An election of a new House of Assem- bly was ordered by the Governor, to convene in the Salem Court House. The members of that body, on the 7th of October, 1774, transformed themselves into a Provincial Congress which assumed sove- reignty ; thus terminating all political connection between Massachusetts and Great Britain." 6 Over the window is a tablet, bearing the inscrip- tion, in raised letters : " First Church." Within the old Meeting House are now deposited specimens of furniture and other relics of the olden times. The following may be specified : 1. A Sofa brouglvt from Normandy b}' some of the French Huguenots, — who came to this country soon after the revocation of the edict of Nantes by Louis XIV, in 1685, which occasioned the emigra- tion of a great number of artists and other useful men to other lands, carrying with them their indus- try and their riches ; — and for many years in the possession of the fiimily of John Appleton of Salem, and by one of the members presented to the Essex Historical Society soon after its formation. 2. The Communion Table of the East Church, Salem, during the occupanc}' of the first house l)uilt on the corner of Essex and Hard}' streets in 1718 ; taken down in 18 IG ; presented b}' the Parish Committee. 3. A small Stand which belonged to Deacon Benja. Gerrish, who, in 1682, removed from New- bury to Salem, where he acted as Deacon in Parson Noyes' church which stood upon the ground where was afterwards built the old First Church (Dr. Prince's). It served as a stand for the christening- basin in the church some one hundred and eighty years ago. 4. The Desk which Nath'l Bowditch, LL.D., used when engaged in the translation of La Place's Mecanique Celeste. Presented by his son. Dr. Henry I. Bowditch, 5. A Pew Door from the Meeting House of the First Parish in Hingham ; built in 1680; repaired in 1869. The pews were made in 1755 ; presented by Hon. Solomon Lincoln of Hingham, Oct. 15, 1869. The Pew was owned by William Lincoln (the grandfather of the donor) and his brother, Enoch Lincoln (grandfather of Gov. Levi Lincoln, of Worcester). 6. A Samp Mortar from the Treadwell farm in Topsfield. 8 7. A Spinet made bj' Samuel Blyth of Salem. Presented by Jesse Smith. 8. A Piano made by John Broadwood of Lou- don, in 1791. In the gallery is a collection of spinning and flax wheels, used in the olden times ; and on the walls are many engravings of the ministers and others who flourished in the last centur}^ and the early part of the present. Also views and other relics. We close these introductory remarks with the fol- lowing quotation from an illustrated article ou " Salem," in Harper's WeekJj/ Sup[)lemcnt, August 5, 1871. " Nowhere in this hind may oiu' find so ancient and worsliii)ful a shrine. AVitliin these walls, silent with the rcnu'nibcrcd presence of Kndicott, .Skelton, Higginson, Roger AVillianis, and their grave com- peers, the Aery day seems haunted, and the sunshine falls but soberly in. The visitor seems to close the door upon the bustle and complacency of his own time, and by some subtile spell of sympathy to find himself standing at last in mute and intelligible relations to tln^ lirm, integral life to which he owes so nnicli. (^>naint and in keci)ing as are the visions that the suggestiveuess of the place conjure from out the resources of his memory, there is yet in them all no longer so bald a sense of Puritanic affectation or constraint ; the bare timbers of these narrow precincts evince a necessity that was in itself denial ; and he remembers vividly, as if for the first complete time, that the souls that met God here w^ere sadly weary of a colder intercession." EEPOET OP THE Committee, on the Authenticity of THE Tradition of the First Church, Built in 1634. HEAD AT A MEETING OF THE INSTITUTE, APRIL 26, 18130. The Committee appointed in July 1859, to ascertain the authenticity of the tradition as to the identity of an old building on the estate of David Nichols, back of Boston street, — having been built from the frame of the first Church ever erected in Salem, and report at a future meeting of the Institute Avhat action it would be advisable for the Institute to take in relation thereto, have attended to that duty, and beg leave to report, that Your Committee have with unwearied pains endeavored to investigate the subject, for which they were appointed ; that they trust they have brought to this important task, the most unpre- (11) 12 judiced and impartial minds, — that they flat- ter themselves that they have been only dili- gent searchers into the truth, in relation to this subject ; that they have no private views or aims to gratify — that they have only in com- mon with their fellow citizens, the sincere and ardent desire to investigate, impartially, the validity of the testimony on which has rested the belief that this is the veritable building, which the records say was erected in 1634, for the tirst Church ; Avhere our ancestors wor- shipped the God of their fathers, agreeal)ly to the dictates of their own consciences ; and if true, to preserve for all coming time, this hnm- ble temple of God, from the all-destroying ele- ments ; the tooth of time, having already made ver}' free with it. But while we desire to sift the evidence criti- cally and impartially, on which this tradition is founded, we have wished to do it, in a lil)(>ral and calholic spirit, wilh no narrow or cynical criticism, and to exercise towards the traditional part of the evideuce, the liberality which we think honestly and truthfully belongs to it. That it has come to us from long lived men, re- markable for retentive memories, and famed for truthfulness ; that it is no vague, improbable legend, based upon uncertain and visionary tes- timony. The first question appears to be — is this the frame of the first Church erected in 1634? Is there, in records and reliable tradition, evidence to warrant a belief that it is ? Let us first look into the evidence from the records, then into the tradition, — and lastly, — the internal proofs from the building itself. We have the assurance from the records, that the congregation having worshipped from 1629 to 1634 in an unfinished building, of one story, agreed, the latter year, with Mr. Norton, to build a suitable meeting-house, which should not exceed the amount of £100. In 1638, four years afterwards, " bills were paid for daubing and glazing this house." The next year, in Fe))ru- ary 1639, an agreement was made with John Pickering to build a " Meeting-house," but from 14 "vvhat follows, and in which your Committee coincide, it was only an addiiion to the old house ; for the town voted on the 31st Dec. 1638, onl^^ two months previous, to build an addiiion to the meeting-house. The agreement with Pickering was "that it be twenty-five feet long, the breadth of the old building, with a gallery answeraljlc to the former, one cattied chimney of twelve feet k)ng, the back whereof to be brick or stone, to have six sufficient win- dows, two on each* side, and two at the end, and a pair of stairs to ascend the galleries, suitable to the former." Here, only one end is mentioned, and a Meeting House Avould of course have had two ends. Thus we have the information, also, that the first building had a gallery. This addition wva(\q the building twice its for- mer size, exclusive of the five feet which was necessarily reserved for a pulpit, on the side, between the galleries and a door ()[)iK).site with an aisle in the middle, a style of Church build- ing which continued from that day until a very 15 late period. The whole length of the building then was forty-five feet as here represented in the following plan. Old part, 20 feet. 25 feet, new part. OLD. NEW. Still Preserved. In 1647 "Mr. George Curwin and William Lord have undertaken to provide stone and clay for repairs of the meeting house. Mr. Curwin has promised to provide for covering the meet- ing house, five hundred nails, and is promised to be paid to his content." This house contin- ued, as appears by the records, to accommodate the " conOTesration " until 1670, when the sec- 16 ond house was built, of sixty feet long, fifty feet wide and twent}'' feet stud, situated aecord- iug to the records " at the west end of the old meeting house towards the prison." The town gave the land to set it upon. On the 17th Aug., 1672, the town "voted, that the old meeting house be reserved for the town's use, to build a skoolehouse and w'atch house," and be carried "into some convenient place where it may be reformed for the town's use," and it was further voted that " the old pulpit and the deacon's seat be given to the farmers," who were then erecting a meeting house at the Vil- lage. The stones of the underpinning of the old meeting house and the clay is given to Mr. Fisk. The "clay of the old meeting house" has probably reference to the floors, which weie no doubt made of clay, — boards being scarce, as there w^cre but few saw-mills in the CoK)ny at that early period ; this custom of clay floors is still common in the cottages of Scotland and Ireland at the present diiy. On the 10th June, 1712, it was proposed to fit up the old watch 17 house, which was built, as we have seen, from part of the old meeting house, as a place "for teaching reading, writing, ciphering and navi- gation." Now the whole house is converted into a school honse or into two school houses, being formerly fitted up for a school house and a watch house." This school house continued in the town's use to May 19, 1760, a space of forty-eight years, when the records inform us a^'new schoolhouse" is to be built not on the same spot as the old one in School Lane. " School Lane " is said in the town records, to have been afterward Court street, and which is now Washington street. This old school house was situated, says tradition, to the northward of the old Hunt house. With this entry about the location of the new school Jiouse ends the town records, which are all missing from May, 1760, to May 1764, and no doubt the missing part contained the record of the disposal of the old school house. Had this record been preserved, any tradition would have been unnecessary and superfluous. As it 18 is, however, all that is known from 1760, of the old house, is from this source : and there is every reason to believe it was then disposed of, and that Thorndike Proctor, who was at this time a conspicuous man in town affairs, Select- man and Moderator of Town Meetings, and Grand Jury man, bought the oldest part and re- erected it on his own land, back of what is now Boston street, where it Avas used as a tavern or a refreshment house. Here it has slumbered undisturbed for a period of one hundred years. The tradition is to this effect, obtained through Caleb Peirce, Esq., and comes down to us from the Pope family and from Benja. Proctor and his sister, wlio are the lineal descendants of the said Thorndike Proctor. JNIr. Peirce says : "Joseph Pope, the tirst of the name who came to New England, was in Salem in 1()3() ; his name appears on the Salem records about that time." "Joseph Pope 2d was born in , mar- ried in 1()7U Bi'thusa Folgcr, aunt to Dr. Franklin." 19 " Enos Pope, son of Joseph 2d, was born in 1690 ; he lived near the Fowler house in Bos- ton street. In 1718 he built the house now oc- cupied by Mr. Wilkins at the foot of Gallows Hill, which was within a few rods of this old building in which Enos 2d was born in 1721, and who died at the age of 92. Enos 3d was born in 1769. My recollections of my grand- father, Enos 2d, are very clear and distinct. Until a few months of his death he was very active, clear minded and communicative. He was frequently enquired of by people with re- gard to previous events, and he was so exact in his account of dates and particulars that it was supposed he had kept a journal for many years, which was not the case. "I remember his pointing out the course of the old road, Avhich passed the tavern house and joined the present street directly opposite his house. With Enos Pope 3d, I lived near forty years, — he was full of information and anec- dotes, and yet very cautious and careful in his statements. It is from him and his sisters, who 20 lived in the family Ions; after their father's death, that I got the account. It was never doubted by them. It should l>e remembered that the persons I have named were separated only by death, although very long lived ; father, son and grandson have lived together in the same house, and the connection that bound the past to the present was never broken for a day. Two persons are now living who were born in the old tavern, viz., Benja. Proctor, aged 84 and his sister. I have just seen them, and find that they well remember that it was always known as having been made from the "First jSIeeting House." Mr. Proctor says he has heard his father say so more than a Jnindred times. A few years ago, I mentioned to an older brother of theirs, since dead, what I had heard of its early history, and found him nmeh better informed than I was, and much interested in having the house preserved. It was from him I lirst learned that the house itself atlbrds so nuich evidence of its origin.'' Thus ends the tradition. The internal evi- 21 dence that the present building is the identical first Church erected in 1634 are, first, the size of the building, which so completely matches the ^'addition'' made in 1G39, being twenty feet long and seventeen wide ; secondly, its pe- culiar construction, — one important point be- ing that a beam, apparently intended for the support of a galler}^ is framed iu from side to side at about one-third the length of the build- ing ; that upon the timber opposite to this beam are peculiar tenons, which, in the opinion of a master builder, cannot be for any other use than the insertion of knees for some support, which your committee believe was for a gallery. The daubings upon the walls, or plastering as we should now saj^ composed of clay and chopped straw, also prove the great antiquity of the buildiug, but your committee not being in possession of the fact how the building was removed to the present location are not clear, that this work might not have been added sub- sequently to its removal. The great pitch of the roof, unusual at that day for dwellings, may 22 have been so designed to give a wider and freer space in the galleries. Upon a careful review of all the testimony, your Committee are unanimously of the opin- ion, that the evidence, thus educed, from the public records, from reliable tradition and from the internal testimony of the building itself, is plain and conclusive. Other great and valuable mementoes of our fathers have rested upon much less evidence, particularly the far-famed, and world-renowned Plymouth Rock. Our records prove that the old meeting-house of 1634 w^as in existence, in the town's use and occupation down to 1760. The tradition since that period is plain, straightforward and unde- niable, covering a space only of two lives, and those of the most veritable character, particu- larly that of Enos Pope 2d, born in 1721, who died in 1813, and who was forty years of age when it was removed from its place in School Lane to where it now stands. The internal evidence derived from the build- ini; itself is alike couHiniatorv of both records 23 and tradition, and your Committee have no hes- itation in saying, that in this humble building has been as it were providentially preserved the first Church erected by our fathers in 1634. The same building in which Roger Williams, Hugh Peters, John Higginson and other divines of that day, expounded the scriptures and dis- pensed the bread of life to their hearers, and it is unnecessary to say, that it is a most valuable memento of our ancestors ; identified, as it is, with their pure and simple devotion and pious zeal. Your Committee would, therefore, in further- ance of the duty which devolves upon them, recommend that this " Santissima Casa " — this most holy house, be removed to some suit- able place and fitted up internally and exter- nally as nearly as possible to its original ap- pearance, where it would be more accessible to the public, and where pilgrimage could be made to it by every sou and daughter of Massachu- setts who values our peculiar history and the preservation of memorials connecting us with 24 our fathers, and as they shall stand beneath its restored and sacred roof, the words once ut- tered to Moses shall steal upon the mental ear, " Put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest, is holy ground." Respectfully submitted, C. M. Endicott, Chairman, Fkaxcis Peabody, Geo. D. Phippen, A. C. Goodell, Ira J. Patch. April 26, 1860. ' THE COMMITTEE TO WHOM WAS INTRUSTED THE CARRYING OUT OF THE RECOMMENDATIONS CONTAINED IN THEIR REPORT, MADE TO THE INSTITUTE, APRIL 26th, 1860 : report, That they have attended to the duties as- signed to them, and now present their work completed. The principal diificulty the Committee had to contend with, was to find a suitable site on which to place the Church of the Pilgrims. This was finally arranged through the efforts of our late most worthy associate, George A. Ward, Esq., who was added to the Committee, Dec. 18th, 1863. The assent of the Proprietors of the Athe- naeum having been obtained to the placing of the Church on the land in the rear of the Plum- (25) 26 mer Hall, the Committee decided to transfer it to this site, if", upon examination, it should be found in a suitable condition for removal. The contract for building this Church was made in November, 1(J34, Avith a Mr. Morton ; the trees were felled in the winter of 1635, and the building erected during the summer of that year. Its glazed windows were not added un- til 1637 ; they were probal)ly ordered in 1G36 from England, and were paid lor according to the Town Records in 1638. Your Committee were satisticd after a thor- ough examination that the Frame was the only part of the building that afforded unmistakable evidence of having l)eIonged to the original construction. They removed with care the outer covering of the building, the boards and the shingles ; they marked and numbered every part of the frame ; they noted the positions of the posts, braces, plates, rafters, ridge-pole, gallery-beam, tie-l>cam, mortices and cock-ten- ants : these were carefully examined and (jues- tioned as to their story of the past : the re- 27 spouses were prompt, and so satisfactory to those who could iinderstaud theu* language, that their origin and mission were placed be- yond doubt. It was resolved to transfer these relics to their new site, and after dressing the wounds inflicted by Time, to erect them into their orig- inal positions and form, that the}^ might repeat to coming generations the same story they had whispered to your representatives. We have raised an external structure of suit- able strength, to which the ancient frame is bolted, and this frame is seen projecting on the outside of the plastering within the building. We have supported the external structure by means of sills resting on stone posts, raised from the ground to protect the floor from decay. The floor of the original building, judging from the Town Records, Avas made of clay. The wooden posts so far as they remain to us, have been extended to meet the sills by the addition of timber ; these extensions have been colored brown, to distinguish them from the 28 original parts. The posts then rise, antl ter- minating in cock-teijants enter the plates, sup- porting them firmly in their positions. The cock-tenant is a form of tenon, universally used at that early period, in the wooden struc- tures of England. This fact is an evidence of the period and purpose of the Frame. We have farther strengthened the plates by adding strips of plank, which assist them to bear the superincumbent weight of the roof. These additions like tlu; supporters of the posts are colored brown, to distinguish them from the oriijinal materials. Between the posts are placed the original braces, which are wonderfully preserved. Lodg- ing on the plates are the six original rafters, which bear on high tlu; original ridge-pole, so aged and intiim that it re([uires the aid of the plaster in which it is imbedded to sup[)ort it. The rafters are secured to the plates with iron bolts, two of which are seen. These tri- angular frames united by eight purlins, formed the original roof of the Church; their ijreat 29 height above the phite indicates their purpose ; they are in keeping with the early English Church roof. The frame of the Gallery furnishes very sat- isfactory evidence of its original use as the gal- lery of the Church, though upon the first exam- ination this was not apparent. In the building as we found it, the great beam which now holds up the gallery front, was raised above its pres- ent position, so that the tenons entered the two upper mortices (these mortices now remain open, and are seen to be above the present posi- tion of the timber). This position of the prin- cipal beam of the structure on the first inspec- tion conflicted with the claims of the tradition that this was the original First Church ; but on farther scrutiny of the posts that hold up the ends of the gallery front, there was found an opening or slott in the post, at some distance beneath the beam ; this had been filled with bricks and clay, and farther concealed by a cov- ering of Avhitewash ; by a few^ strokes of the hammer this filling came out, and disclosed a 30 regularly shaped mortice, of a size to hold the tenon of the beam. The opposite post was found to have a similar mortice, at the same distance under the beam : this discovei-y made it certain that these were the original mortices in which the gallery beam rested. It appears that by a vote of the town in 1G72, the First Church was converted into a school house, and this gallery beam was then raised to new mor- tices made in the posts higher up, to estal)lish a ceiling for the school-room. Important con- tirmatory evidence of the original use of the beam was obtained, by raising the floor over the ceiling at the end of the building : this exposed to view an oak tie beam, in which the joist of the gallery rested at the time the front timber was lodged in the lower mortices of the gallery posts ; thus giving to the gallery an inclination by which a view of the preacher below was ob- tained. Upon examining the opposite end of the frame, no tie beam was found, confirming our views as to the use of the beam described. If this beam and posts had been intended 31 originally to support a ceiling and upper floor, they would have been so framed as to divide the building into equal parts, and would have been placed immediately under the middle ratter, where they could have afforded the greatest support to the roof; but we found them placed at about one-third of the distance from the end. The beam moreover is a third larger than it would have been, had two cross beams been framed to support an upper floor. The gallery beam, as originally laid, was supported by two knees, formed out from the posts, as was usual in the English Churches, built as early as 1600. This support was neces- sary to prevent the beam from yielding, when the gallery was filled with people. Upon chang- ing the use of the beam, from the support of the gallery to the support of a ceiling and floor, these knees were no longer required ; one of them has disappeared, and a portion of the other remains. The building is now supported and prevented from spreading, by long iron bolts inserted in- to the beam and hidden behind the plastering. 32 A railing has l)een placed in front of the gal- lery," and colored brown, to indicate that it is an addition, made by the Committee. This proliabl}^ represents the position of the old gal- lery front ; the ends of the posts occnpy the mortices, which were no d()ul)t in nsc for the original front. And now in closing their labors, the Commit- tee present the key of the structure to the Institute, with a sincere wish that this holy house may be preserved to those who come after ns, and handed down from generation to generation as a valued trust. Respectfully submitted, Francis Peabody, George D. Piiippen, a. c. goodell, Ira J. Patch, C. W. UniAM. [Continued from 2nd parje of Cover. ~\ Naturalists' Dikectouy. [Issued with Proceed- ings. Vol. V. 18G7.] This work contains tlie addresses and department of study of tlie Naturalists, Collectors and Taxidermists, in North America at the date of publication. Separate from Proceedings, paper covers, . . 1 00 " " " bound and interleaved, 2 00 Historical Collections. Pirst series, Vols. 1-8, small 4to, Historical Collections. Second series in 8vo, commencing with Vol. 9. The 10 vols, in paper covers, 20 00 " 10 " " cloth binding, . . . .30 00 Vol. XI. Now printing in numbers. Subscription, 3 00 The Historical Collections contain papers wholly of an Historical and Genealogical nature, and are most valuable to the student of early American History. Many import- ant manuscripts and public and private early records are printed in these volumes for the first time, as well as papers specially prepared on topics relating to the early history of Massachusetts. Several Genealogies of lead- ing families connected with the early settlement of the country are also contained in the volume. 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