IV 3»«^ « r% v ^ Class Book. .E 2_ Copyright N"_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. The Pilgrimage OF The San Francisco Club UNDER THE AUSPICES OF Pilgrim Commandery No. 11, K. T. THE SHRINE OF THE TRIENNIAL CONCLAVE OF Knights Templar of the United States. ,j^\'^ z * * * * HARRISBURG. PA.: Press of The Star-Independent 1906 LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received APh 27 1906 Copynght Lntry CLASS (4t XXc. No COPY B.' TO The JMembebs of the Committee of Arranoemekts — Snt Knights Owen M. COpei-in, Chairman; Arthur D. Bacon, Secretary; William M, Donaldson, Treasurer and Lewis E. Beitler, General- issimo of Pilgrim Commandery. Representatives of Pilgrim Com- mandery. No. 11, of Harrisburg, Pa. In behalf of the Sir Knights and their Ladies of San Francisco Club. In Happy Remembrance of Courtesies Received under the Auspices of Daily Association. This Book is Dedicated BY the AUTHOR. Copyright by Alexander H. Ege, 1905. All rights reserved. PILGRIM COMMA NDERY, No. 11, K. T. OF Habrisbueg, Pa. SAN FRANCISCO CLUB OF 190 4. Chairman, Secretary, OWEN M. COPELIN. ARTHUR D. BACON. Treasurer, WILLIAM M. DONALDSON. TOUR The Canadian Rockies AND Pacific Coast, August 18 to September 18, 1904. Under the Personally-Conducted Tourist System Pennsylvania Railroad. J. R. Wood, Geo. W. Boyd, Passenger Traffic Manager. General Passenger Agent. (iii) iv Itinerary. ITINERARY THURSDAY, AUGUST 18. HwrVbuJ^ ^** Pennsylvania Railroad. Lv. Harrisburg, Pa., 13 :55 P. M. 61 Lv. Lewistown Junction/ Pa., 2 :17 117 Lv. Tyrone, Pa., 3 :33 131 Ar. Altoona, Pa., 3 :55 Lv. Altoona, Pa., 4 :05 249 Ar. Pittsburg, Pa., (Eastern time,) 7 :05 Via Pennsylvania Lines. Lv. Pittsburg, Pa., (Central time,) 6 :30 " FEIDAY, AUGUST 19. 717 Ar. Chicago, III., 7 :35 A. M. Spend day in Chicago. Via Chicago and Northwestern Railway. Lv. Chicago, III., 3 :10 P. M. 802 Ar. Milwaukee, Wis., 5 :10 " Five hours in Milwaukee. Lv. Milwaukee, Wis., 10 :00 " SATURDAY, AUGUST 20. 1,127 Ar. St. Paul, Minn., 9 :00 A.M. Spend day in St. Paul. Via Minneapolis, St. Paul and Saint Ste. Marie Railway. Lv. St. Paul, Minn., 6 :00 P. M. SUNDAY, AUGUST 21. 1,687 Ar. Portal, N. D., (Central time,) 1 :00 P. M. Via Canadian Pacific Railway. Lv. Portal, N. D., (Mountain time,) 12 :15 " Itinerary. Muesfrom MONDAY, AUGUST 23. 2,378 Ar. Banff Hot Springs, 1 :00 P.M. TUESDAY, AUGUST 23. At Banff Hot Springs. Visit Springs and baths. WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24. Lv. Banff Hot Springs, 7 :00 A. M. 2,413 Ar. Laggan, (Mountain time,) 8 :15 " Lake Louise, two and one-half miles from station. Lv. Laggan, (Pacific time,) 12 :15 P. M. 2,515 Ar. Glacier, B. C, 6:15 " Side track over night. THUESDAY, AUGUST 25. Lv. Glacier, B. C, 7 :00 A. M. 2,734 Ar. Ashcroft, B. C, 7 :00 P. M. Side track over night. FRIDAY, AUGUST 26. Lv. Ashcroft, B. C, 8 :00 A. M. 2,905 Ar. Sumas, B. C, 3 :30 P. M. Via Northern Pacific Railway. Lv. Sumas, B. C, 3 :45 " 3,031 Ar. Seattle, Wash., 9 :10 " Side track over night. SATURDAY, AUGUST 27. Spend forenoon in Seattle; use trolley cars to see the city. Lv. Seattle, Wash., 12 :00 Noon. 3,072 Ar. Tacoma, Wash., 1 :30 P. M. Afternoon in Tacoma. Lv. Tacoma, Wash., 11 :30 P. M. vi Itinerary. HarViS SUNDAY, AUGUST 28. 3,216 Ar. Portland, Ore., 6 :00 A. M. The day in Portland can be most profitably spent in taking a steamboat trip up the Columbia River to Cascade Lock. The steamer fare, includ- ing luncheon, will not exceed $1.50. Via Southern Pacific Company. Lv. Portland, Ore., 8 :30 P. M. MONDAY, AUGUST 29. 3,650 Lv. SissoN (Mt. Shasta), Cal., 6 :25 P. M. TUESDAY, AUGUST 30. 3,984 Ar. Oakland, Cal., 8 :10 A. M. Lv. Oakland, Cal., 8 :30 " 4,028 Lv. San Jose, Cal., 10:30 " 4,103 Ar. Monterey, Cal., 1 :00 P. M. Seventeen-mile drive in the afternoon. The cost of this drive is $1.25 per capita, and is one of the most attractive features of the Pacific Coast tours. Retire on train. WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31. Lv. Monterey, Cal., 12 :01 A. M. 4,380 Ar. Santa Barbara, Cal., 9 :00 " Carriage drive; cost, $1.00. Spend entire day at Santa Barbara. Retire on train. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1. Lv. Santa Barbara, Cal., 12 :01 A. M. 4,490 Ar. Los Angeles, Cal., 4.00 " THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 2. Itinerary. , Tii Mues from SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3. Harris bnrg ^ Three days in Los Angeles. Visit Pasadena (25 cents), Riverside, Redlands and Santa Catalina Island ($2.50). Ascent of Mt. Lowe from Pasadena Incline Railway ($2.50). SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3. Lv. Los Angeles, Cal,, 5 :00 P. M. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 4. 4,922 Ar. San Jose, Cal., 7 :00 A. M. This day can be delightfully spent in a stage trip to the summit of Mt. Hamilton. Cost of stage trip, $3.00; luncheon en route, 50 cents. Retire on train. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 5. Lv. San Jose. Cal 8 :00 A. M. 4,938 Ar. Palo Alto, Cal., 8 :30 " Visit Stanford University and the famous stock farm. Carriages necessary; cost, $1.00 per capita. Lv. Palo Alto, Cal., 12 :00 Noon. 4,972 Ar. San Francisco. Cal., (Third St.), . . 1 :00 P. M. NOTICE TO PASSENGER. Your ticket must be validated hy and a fee of 50 cents paid to the Joint Agent at 17 Neio Mont- gomery Street, San Francisco, before it will be accepted for passage leaving San ; Francisco, Thursday, September 8. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8. In San Francisco for Conclave. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8. Lv. San Francisco, Cal. (Market St. Ferry), 12 :00 Night. viii Itinerary. siS"^n'?SK> FKIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9. 90 Lv. Sacramento, Cal., 4 :00 A. M. Cross the Sierras during the forenoon. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10. 826 Ar. Ogden, Utah (Pacific time,) 6 :00 A. M. Via Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. Lv. Ogden, Utah, (Mountain time,) 7 :40 A. M. 863 Ar. Salt Lake City, Utah, 8 :40 " Visit Saltair, on Great Salt Lake; fare, $1.00. Also, Mormon Temple and Tabernacle. Drive not necessary. Lv. Salt Lake City, Utah, 5 :00 P. M. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11. 1,245 Ar. Glenwood Springs, Col 6 :15 A. M. Visit Springs and baths, near station. Lv. Glenwood Springs, Col., 10 :00 A. M. Pass through Royal Grorge, 5:40 P. M. 1,530 Ar. Colorado Springs, Col., 8 :25 P. M, Side track for occupancy. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12. At Colorado Springs. Drive to Manitou and Garden of the Gods, $1.00. Drive to and through Cheyenne Canyon. Scenic Railroad side trip to Cripple Creek and return, $2.75. Ascent of Pike's Peak (incline runs only during summer) , $5.00. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13. Lv. Colorado Springs, Col., 5 :00 A. M. 1,605 Ar. Denver, Col 7 :30 " Spend day in Denver. "Seeing Denver" special trolley cars, 50 cents. GeorgetowTi Loop trip, $2.75. Via Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway. Lv. Denver, Col., 10 :00 P. M. Itinerary. ix Mtiesfrom WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14. San l! ranclsco 2,240 Ar. Kansas City, 7 :30 P. M. Via Missouri Pacific Railway. Lv. Kansas City, Mo 9 :00 P. M. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15. 2,523 Ar. St. Louis, Mo 6 :30 A. M. NOTICE TO PASSENGER. Your ticket must be deposited vAth the Joint Agent at St. Louis, and a fee of $1.00 paid, before it vnll be accepted for passage leaving St. Louis, Friday, September 16. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16. In St. Louis. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16. Via Vandalia Line. Lv. St. Louis. Mo., 11 :35 P. M. SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17. 2,765 Ar. Indianapolis, Ind., 6 :50 A. M. Via Pennsylvania Lines. Lv. Indianapolis, Ind 8 :10 A. M. 3,146 Ar. Pittsburg, Pa., (Central time,) 5 :40 P. M. Via Pennsylvania Railway. Lv. Pittsburg. Pa., (Eastern time,) 7 :10 P. M. 3,263 Ar. Altgona, Pa., 10 :30 " Lv. Altoona, Pa., 10 :37 " 3,277 Ar. Tyrone, Pa., 11 :00 " SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 18. 3,334 Ar. Lewistown Junction, Pa., 12 :25 A. M. 3,394 Ar. Harrisburg, Pa., 2 :00 " Remain in Sleeping Cars until 7:00 A. M. MILMBERS or CLUB Mr. Arthur D. Bacon, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Lewis E. Beitler, Philadelphia, Pa. Mrs. Lewis E. Beitler, Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. Ralph B. Brimmer, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. J. Nevin Baker, Lykens, Pa. Dr. S. G. A. Brown, Shippensburg, Pa. Mrs. S. G. A. Brown, Shippensburg, Pa. Mr. Owen M. Copelin, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. Owen M. Copelin, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. Wm. W. Cunningham, Lewistown, Pa. Mr. Wm. M. Donaldson, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. Wm. M. Donaldson, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Edgar B. Diehl, Lehmasters, Pa. Mrs. Edgar B. Diehl, Lehmasters, Pa. Mr. George F. Dunkle, Philipsburg, Pa. Mr. Wm. H. Denlinger, Patton, Pa. Miss Fannie Eby, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. A. H. Ege, Mechanicsburg, Pa. Mrs. A. H. Ege, Mechanicsburg, Pa. Mr. Clayton C. Forney, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. Clayton C. Forney, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Maurice E. Finney, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Wesley Fisher, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. George Faerster, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. George Faerster, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Theodore P. Frantz, Lebanon, Pa. Miss Gertrude Frantz, Lebanon, Pa. Mr. James E. Fryberger, Philipsburg, Pa. Mrs. James E. Fryberger, Philipsburg, Pa. Mr. J. Rowe Fletcher, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. W. A. Gould, Brisben, Pa. Mrs. W. A. Gould, Brisben, Pa. Dr. John P. Getter Belleville, Pa. Mrs. John P. Getter, Belleville, Pa. Mr. Robert S. Gutelius, Mifflinburg, Pa. Mrs. Robert S. Gutelius, Mifflinburg, Pa. Mr. George A. Gorgas, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. George A. Gorgas, Harrisburg, Pa. Dr. A. S. Harshberger, Lewl.stown, Pa. Mr. Charles V. Henry, Lebanon, Pa. Mrs. Charles V. Henry, Lebanon, Pa. Members. xi Dr. James R. Humes, Hollidaysburg, Pa. Mrs. James R. Humes, Hollidaysburg, Pa. Mr. Wra. C. Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. Mrs. Wm. C. Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. Miss Louise Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. Mr. William T. Holt, Philipsburg, Pa. Mr. John F. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. Mrs. John F. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. Mr. Walter A. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. Mrs. Walter A. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. Miss Carrie T. Hess, Mahanoy City, Pa. Mr. Henry J. Johnson, Millersburg, Pa. Mrs. Henry J. Johnson, Millersburg, Pa. Mr. John Alden Knight, Lewistown, Pa. Mrs. John Alden Knight, Lewistown, Pa. Miss Elizabeth V. Knight, Lewistown, Pa. Mr. Porter Kinports, Grant, Pa. Mrs. Porter Kinports, Grant, Pa. Mr. Amos Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. Mrs. Amos Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. Mr. Daniel F. Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. Mrs. Daniel F. Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. Mr. George W. Mcllhenny, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. George W. Mcllhenny, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. John T. McFall, York, Pa. Mr. Isaac Mossop, Wiconisco, Pa. Mrs. Isaac Mossop, Wiconisco, Pa. Miss Fannie S. Mossop, W'iconisco, Pa. Mr. James H. Minds, Ramey, Pa. Mrs. James H. Minds, Ramey, Pa. Mr. George H. Maeklin, McVeytown, Pa. Mrs. George H. Maeklin, McVeytown, Pa. Mr. Robert S. Magee, Wrightsville, Pa. Mr. J. Morris Miller, Shiremanstown, Pa. Mrs. J. Morris Miller, Shiremanstown, Pa. Mr. Edgar S. Manning, Newville, Pa. Mr. E. S. Parker, Lewistown, Pa. Mr. Wm. H. Patterson, Clearfield, Pa. Mrs. Wm. H. Patterson, Clearfield, Pa. Mr. Chas. E. Patton, Curwensville, Pa. Mrs. Chas. E. Patton, Curwensville, Pa. Mr. C. Day Rudy, Harrisburg, Pa. Mrs. C. Day Rudy, Harrisburg, Pa. xii Members. Mr. James E. Robison, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. C. S. Russell, Curwensville, Pa. Mrs. C. S. Russell, Curwensville, Pa. Mr. Henry W. Snyder, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. Jos. M. Selheimer, Lewistown, Pa. Mrs. G«orge H. Spang, Lebanon, Pa. Miss Marguerite Spang, Lebanon, Pa. Mr. Jacob K. Seacrist, York, Pa. Mr. Grant Weidman, Jr., Lebanon, Pa. Mr. Charles D. Weirick, Lebanon, Pa. Mrs. Charles D. Weirick, Lebanon, Pa. Mr. Louis A. Warren, Lan9do^vne, Pa. Mrs. Louis A. Warren, Lansdowne, Pa. Mr. James W. Wagner, Mifflintown, Pa. Mrs. James W. Wagner, Mifflintown, Pa. Mrs. George C. Zollinger, Harrisburg, Pa. Miss Bessie Zollinger, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. R. L. Stall, Tourist Agent, Philadelphia, Pa. Mr. J. C. Burkholder, Special Baggagemaster, Harrisburg, Pa. Mr. John Hammond, Pullman Conductor, .... Harrisburg, Pa. 0/ W \!> o o o CHAPTER I. THE OUTLOOK. THE experiences of "The San Francisco Club" of Pilgrim Commander}^ K. T. No. 11, of Harrisburg, Pa., during their late pilgrimage to the Shrine of the Triennial Con- clave of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United States of America has now passed into history. It, therefore, remains to give but a brief rehearsal of its salient features as a resume to which the mind may revert, that meinory may fill up the details of scenes experienced, that are now inscribed upon its pages that only the limits of life can efface. Tlie days of anticipation and the details of preparation for the auspicious inauguration of the trip having been happily consummated, the gallant Sir Knights and their no less enthusi- astic Ladies took possession of their respective sections of the Pullman Special at "high noon" of the 18th of August, 1904, in the station of our Capital City. In passing it may be well to state at this juncture, that the coaches assigned the Pilgrims by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company for their accommodation were first-class in all their appointments, and consisted of the dining car "Continental," and the four sleepers "Commodore," "Cremona," "Groveton" and "Jackson," with the annex of the Pullman observation car the "Olympic" — the last of which it will be recalled was the car that carried the remains of our late lamented and much beloved Mc- Kinley after his death, from Buffalo to Washington and thence to his last resting place at Canton, Ohio, the home of his early and more mature manhood, ere he entered upon his Congressional and Presidential career at the National Capital, and prior to his becoming the first citizen of the Eepublic. In speaking specifically of the said observation car, it will bo readily recalled that it was furnished with portable and (13) 14 The Pilgrimage of easy lounging chairs, two library cases and attached writing desks — both amply supplied with a selected assortment of books and writing materials for all who might wish to avail themselves of the same — and last, but not least, with an upright piano of modern style and construction, that, in connection with its as- sociations, was much more than a piece of mere ornament, as will be adverted to later in the course of the narration. The ol)servation platform upon the rear end of the car, with its enclosing brazen balustrade, side prolongation of the car paneling, and the portable camp-stools thereof gave accommoda- tion for a score or more at a time of the fresh-air qui vives — accompaniments that conspired to make the locality a place of frequent resort of those desirous of varying side views of the Pullman windows wath the backward and receding outlines on either side of prairie, hill and mountain outlook, that in kaleideoscopic succession "greeted and gladdened the eye" as the fleeting train swept along amid the flood of sunshine that poured its ceaseless radiance around under the almost perpetual blue of the upper vault, that, for the major part of the time, offered no obstruction of cloud or haze to dampen the ardor of the tourist that was, therefore, kept in a constant state of expectancy as the varying landscape lent its charms to perpetu- ate and enliven the successive pictures. THE EPICUEEAN OUTLOOK. To return, however, from the suggestions of the car of observa- tion, as it opened up from its vantage point the possibilities of the aesthetic, it seems proper in this connection also to note other specific features of the Special, that the railway manage- ment, in conjunction with the suggestions of the very efflcient Committee of Arrangements of the Club, had placed at the dis- posal of the Pilgrims for their gastronomic entertainment; as well as for the conservation of their physical comfort while in transit during the hours of social conclave, or when "Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep, That, like the world, its ready visit pays where fortune smiles," The San Francisco Cluh. 15 invites to the recuperation of slumber, for which each Knight and Lady was supplied with a car-section ; and, therefore, during the waking hours each couple could sit side by side, or vis a vis, as preference dictated ; or when sleep demanded its due wage, the upper berth could be discarded, remain closed at will, and thus ample ventilation to the clear-story above was afforded to the inmates without intrusion upon the comfort of others. And now, last, but not least, it is proper that the appoint- ments of the car set apart for the "renewal of the inner man," as already forshadowed, should not be passed over in silence. As to the personnel of the management of that department, one cannot pay too high a compliment upon the head caterer and cook, or upon the waiters, who were picked men that seemed to vie with each other in complying with the duties of their office, and in the extension of habitual courtesies to all with whom they came in contact. That the specifications of the menu, for instance, may be more readily recalled, one need but revert to the bill of fare that each guest retained as a souvenir of their tri-daily diver- sions — a copy of which is submitted on pages 16 and 17. 16 The Pilgrimage of fIDenu PILGRIM COMMANDERY, NO. 11, K. T. En Route to Triennial Conclave at San Francisco, Cal., 1904. Pullman Service. Luncheon. Soups. Vegetable. Roast Duck. Apple Sauce. Vegetables. Hashed Browned Potatoes. French String Beans. Cold Meats. Roast Beef. Tongue. Ham. Boneless Sardines. Boston Baked Beans. Chow-Chow. Mixed Pickles. Queen Olives. Saratoga Chips. Sliced Tomatoes. Dessert. Imperial Pudding. Marmalade. Golden Gate Fruits, English and Graham Wafers. Fruit. Cheese. Bent's Water Crackers. Coffee. Tea. En Route, Sept. 18, 1904. The San Francisco Cluh. 17 PILGRIM COMMANDEEY, NO. 11, K. T. En Route to Triennial Conclave at San Francisco, Cal., 1904. Pullman Service. Dinner. Soups. Cream of Tomato. Boiled California Trout. Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. Roasts. Roast Beef. Entrees. Baked Macaroni with Cheese. Vegetables. Mashed Potatoes. Lima Beans. June Peas. Salad. Celery. Plain Bread. Graham Bread. Brown Bread. Dessert. Cake. Marmalade. French a la Cream. Fresh Fruit. Cheese. Bent's Water Crackers. Coffee. Cocoa. Tea. En Route. Sept. 18, 1904. Best Wishes. One can, therefore, but affirm that starting out under such auspices, the members of the Club could do no less than cor- dially give assent to the assurances made, that the sequel await- ing them could not be disappointing, but rather the evolution in fact of a climax whose realization had thus been naturally anticipated, and, hence, not in the least to be entertained in denial of those assurances. 2 18 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER II. THE WHEELS TURN. Is it, therefore, thought to be a matter of ^vondel•, that with one accord the Pilgrims should speed forward upon the rsponsive rail upon their initial course along the banks of the "blue Juni- ata." without stop or slow-up, until the busy precincts of Al- toona received our panting engine, and an additional iron horse was drafted into service to scale the heights of the Alleghenies? In due time the Horse-Shoe Bend is doubled, as the declining sun passes bfhind the loftier peaks of the intercepting moun- tains — a fact that did but enhance the natural blue of the imprisoned waters of the enclosed vale below that are the treas- ured source of supply to the cities of the plain upon the lower level, that, to the inquisitive eye, are seen to nestle in confident security of the aforesaid blessings in store for them. The ascent of the mountain continues for some half-hour longer, when the summit is reached, and the hostelry and well- kept grounds of Cresson come into view as we leave the wild mountain scenery beliind us. We would fain perambulate the attractive walks and lounge upon the spacious verandas thereof, but our impatient steed will brook no dela)^, and the descent of the steel pathway commences, over which we speed at no un- certain rate, as the shades of evening gather about us, veiling all objects without while suggestive of other sources of entertain- ment within. A new experience, however, soon enlists our at- tention, and the "Call to Dinner" awakens other associations that in turn were also imperative. We accept the call without ceremony, and prove ourselves willing guests. Ere, however, we are aware the Special glides into the commodious railway sta- tion of the Smolry City. We halt, however, only long enough to exchange greetings with friends of the locality that wish us hon voyage to the Occident, and to install another railway crew The San Francisco Club. 19 and waiting engine, when we must pass out from the well-lighted thoroughfares of the city and environment into the shades of night beyond, and become perforce oblivious of the outer world. OTHER RESOURCES. Tlie social amenities of new acquaintances made are cultivated and those of old ones are brought into requisition, and thus the passing hours are enlivened until the sympathetic porters an- nounce their readiness to comply with our orders to prepare our couches for our first night's repose under the conditions of our novel environment, as we pass beyond the bounds of our beloved native State. Canton, Mansfield, Fort Wayne and other inter- mediate points are passed unrecognized in the darkness, and the early morning finds us rapidly approaching Chicago, where we arrive on time al)out 8 A. M. of the second day of the itinerary, to find a leaden sky and surcharged clouds baptizing us with our first instalment of rain. The news of the approach of the Special had preceded us, and the Bros. Kurzenknabe, formerly from Harrisburg, but now residents of Chicago, were on hand to ex- tend to the Pilgrims a Knightly greeting, and to conduct us to such places of interest as the intermissions of the showers would admit of. The first objective point was the Masonic Temple, a building of twenty-two stories height, to the upper floors of which, as well as intermediate heights, its powerful and commodious elevators carried a large contingent of our com- pany. We were particularly interested in the beautiful decora- tions and furniture of the lodge rooms, and the mystic appoint- ments of preparing and minor apartments, that showed a high degree of artistic detail and wealth of adornment that was a revelation to the uninitiated. The decorators, with brush and palette, were still at work, giving the finishing touches to walls and cornice, preparatory to the re-opening for work in the early Fall. The lofty elevation of the observation rooms would have af- forded an unsurpassed view of the lake, wharfs and shipping, and the city in its vast proportions and outlying parks, had the .sky been clear and the haze dissipated. 20 The Pilgrimage of Leaving the Temple the Bros. Kurzenknabe accompanied the Pilgrims to the new Shrine Temple that, in its appoint- ments, both completed and in process of finish under the hands of the contractors, bids fair to rival anything of the kind in the western domain. The lecture and reception hall has the additional feature of a grand pipe organ of great power and amplitude, as demonstrated b}' Sir Knight George Kurzenknabe who, i)i addition to being a most courteous gentleman, is an expert upon the pedals and the keys; and hence was well quali- fied to bring out its superb tones, both in fugue and the more en- rapturing conceptions of a classic role, as interpreted by the great .Masters. Tlie attractive wares and elegant exhibits of the department stores of the retail section of the city next engaged the atten- tion of the more impressive members ; and ere long the penchant for the possession of souvenirs of more or less ornamental and j)ractical value asserted itself, and drafts upon the exchequers of the Sir Knights began, but their surcease was not yet. Had the weather been propitious, the far-famed parks of tlie city would no doubt have been visited, but the bedraggled skirts and water-soaked footwear, of the ladies particularly, ap- pealed for relief, and, therefore, the accommodations of the Special appeared to be the more attractive at this juncture, and thitlierward in broken groups took their way, content to await tlic benefit of other skies of a liigher latitude at a later date to further satisfy their pedestrian proclivities. The Special, meanwliile, had been transferred (as per bulletin) from the Pennsylvania Pailroad system to the Chicago and Northwestern, and the Pilgrims in a brief while found themselves at the station of the latter: and, repossessing themselves of their respective sections, were ready for their au revoirs to the "Windy City" at 3 :30 P. M. The San Francisco Club. 31 CHAPTER III. HIGHEE LATITUDES. Since the railway, in its northern course, skirted Lake Michi- gan, the sky continued to be more or less obscured by the low- lying clouds, and, hence, the gloom of the murky atmosphere did not contribute to enhance the outlook and thus attract the attention of the otherwise eager sightseers. A passing notice, however, was given to the vacant and advertised lots of the city of the false prophet, Dowie — the Modern Zion, whose taber- nacle spires and public buildings were seen over-topping the brow of the ridge of land that parallels the railway in the background, and separated therefrom by wire fencing to the very verge of the consecrated territory. It appeared to the unprejudiced pro- moter that a number of booms would be required to improve by imported settlers the sites still open for occupation. Hence, the Modern Elijah will still be obliged to proclaim his evangel, if he would keep his coffers replenished and his prestige unmortgaged against ultimate bankruptcy. The cities of Waukegan, Kenosha and Racine, under like con- ditions, pass in rapid succession — centres of activities that no doubt would have repaid a more deliberate survey, but as seen only from the moving train, and under the atmospheric disabili- ties aforementioned, they could but leave upon the mind a tran- sient impression. After an interval of some two hours from our departure from Chicago, the Special rolled into the station of Milwaukee, and the opportunity to alight was afforded. The occasion was not that any of the Pilgrims were so desirous to sample the beverage for which this city is so famous that they accepted the priv- ilege, but, being a centre of a population of 285,315 inhab- itants, the facts of wealth and the attendant objects of in- terest, that necessarily accompany such a condition, had, to 22 The Pilgdmage of the knowledge of all, given the city a prestige that had reached even the nnnophisticated regions of the East; and in many localities therein awakened a spirit of rivalry that has no doubt added an additional smile to the brow of the jolly old soul Gambrinus. Dividing, therefore, into groups and pairs, as caprice or a fixed purpose prevailed, some visited friends, others meandered up the incline to and through the plateau park, whose central object of interest is the Juneau statue, that, in honor to the founder of the city, has given its name to this gem of green slopes and gravel walks; and with its fringe of palatial mansions overlooks the broad lake many feet below, upon whose surface plied in the early days the canoes of the Aborigines, as they brought their pelts to the old trader, and thus laid for him the foundation of that success, the results of which the city is now enjoying. It was but a well-earned memento. Other Pilgrims, in turn, by trolley, explored the city and its environs, while others perambulated the business portions and marts of trade in quest of such entertainment as arcades and windows supply; or in the purchase of such pieces of handiwork as opportunity might suggest. By some of such perambulators the climax of the decorative and plastic art was found in the apartments and reception rooms of the Pabst and Anhauser-Busch saloons. Upon all sides of these rooms were evidences of the expenditure of the most lavish sums of money in the purchase of masterpieces in painting and ceramics that conspired to make these places of resort most attractive to the bon-vivant, the epicure and the novices of dissipation. Here, for instance, are seen a group in bronze of Bacchanalian subjects in their most abandoned postures of degeneracy; there, fruits and flowers rivaling Nature's choicest productions; rare Japanese vases of colossal size and emblazoned with most unique designs: chefs d'oeuvre of the palette and sculptor's chisel — the whole producing a combined effect that showed the work of master ex-perts in the science of effect worthy of higher ends. One exquisite piece of plastic art was that of Aurora ushering in the dawn of day, as she steps forth from opening panels of the eastern walls of the upper clear-story, representing a petite The San Francisco Club. 23 angelic nude in lull relief, whose roseate tinted flesh glowed in a flood of reflected light, the source of which was hidden in the illusive back-ground, as if too resplendent as yet to rush full- orbed into the embrace of day, and yet fully anticipated in the palpable reflections and semi-reflections that reveled in the open, and thus, as it were, heightened the responsive glow of the central figure that no direct radiance could approximate. The conception, thus so successfully embodied, while betraying the artist to be a genius of the first order, was at the same time the occasion of pangs of regret that such an exhibit should be prostituted to pander to the gratification of the lower appetites of those who habitually frequent such places, as if the prime incentive for such patronage could be condoned for by the borrowed credentials of the salon. There are, no doubt, dupli- cates of many of these works of virtuoso within the luxurious boudoirs of some of the private mansions of the same city ; but being environed by the hallowed associations of the home-life, or the educational restraints of the art gallery, the wholesome cul- ture of the aesthetical faculties is attained without encounter- ing the glamour of the saloon, or compromising the sanctions of self-restraint. An apparent emulation to enlist a like species of patronage was seen in the apartments of the Schlitz Brewing Co.'s saloon, par- ticularly in the wall decorations of the same, in the variety and high order of talent shown in the paintings and their appur- tenances, that meet the eye from every coigne of advantage, the objective point of the proprietors being to utili;6e and blend the proclivities of the lower nature with the emotions of the higher ; and as a return for the Joint result, to appeal thereby to the finer sentiments of their patrons not to accept the compliment without the tender of a pecuniar}^ equivalent therefor. Ample materials for a further digression from the purpose of the present review no doubt recurs to the mind of the alert Pilgrim who would, no doubt, like to dwell further upon the inferences drawn from the fact that while but two of the licensed places of the city has been specially adverted to, what might be said of the remaining 1,867 of such places, thus shoAving that upon the basis 24 The Pilgrimage of of population there is one such place to every 152 of the in- habitants — a fact that is only excelled by two other cities in the United States, viz, San Francisco and San Antonio. A halt, however, must now be imposed, and a return to the awaiting Spe- cial becomes the order of the day. In compliance therewith, even the most tardy report presence, and after a brief interchange of experiences between the more communicative, the respite of sleep invokes silence, and the activities of the third day are brought to a close. o o The San Francisco Club. 25 CHAPTER IV. ST. PAUL AND MINNEAPOLIS. The morning of the 21st found us in near proximity to St. Paul, which we reach upon schedule time. Meanwhile, break- fast having been disposed of, and the commodious Union Rail- road station having been exchanged for the Special, Knight and Lady were soon upon the qui vive to enter upon the program of the day. After a short delay a hegira materialized, when some by tally-ho, others by automobile, barouches and trolley started forth to explore first in order the city of St. Paul and its suburbs, and thence to extend the outlook to Minneapolis and the intermediate places of interest. Having been forewarned to accept as a fact the towering piles of business houses and public buildings of Chicago — the Metropolis of the West — we were, we admit, unprepared for the facades and lofty proportions of the busy emporiums, houses of business, and the really ornate structures of municipal, educational and religious import here presented — creations that were, indeed, a revelation in no degree inferior, if not superior, to many of those of the much older cities of the East of equal and even greater population (that of St. Paul being,in 1900, 163,065; the first white child being born there in 1839, territorial capital located there in 1851, the population of the previous year being 850) and of greater presumed fixed capital. St. Paul, being lo- cated at the head of navigation upon the Mississippi River, is therefore possessed of a natural advantage over its twin city, Minneapolis, that has enabled it to maintain its precedence, (though without any disparagement to the latter,) in connection with its earlier date of recognition in the business world, and for its greater variety of commercial ventures. And yet Minne- apolis, as a good second, has acquired in its marvelous develop- ment, the distinction in name of one of the phenomenal cities 26 The Pilgrimage of of the United States. With a population in 1850 of 3,300, an incorporated town government in 1858, a city government in 1867 it leaped in population in 1900 to 203,718. Utilizing the 40,000 horse power of the Falls of St. x\nthony, precipitated from a height of sixty-eight feet, it has readily reached the de- served distinction of being the greatest flour-producing and wheat-shipping centre in the world. Its lumber output ranks next in importance to that of its flour — its cut lumber as long as fifteen years ago reached the enormous amount of 375,855,648 feet. After traversing the principal streets of the latter city the ma- jority of the members of the Club took advantage of the opportu- nity of visiting one of the groups of flour mills, viz, that of the Washburn, Crosby Co., and by the courtesy of the general man- ager thereof, Mr. Wra. Howard Bowey, were conducted through the largest one of the five mills operated by the said corporation, that rolls and prepares for shipment 10,000 barrels of flour per day — the entire plant aggregating 35,000 barrels daily. And, as we are led from floor to floor, commencing in the upper stories, the ditt'erent processes by which the bran-coats are removed, and the gluten and the starch crushed to a powdery consistency of velvety softness, our interest is sustained and we learn the routine by which Gold iledal brand is brought to its perfection. As ex- plained to us, after the cleansing processes have been perfected, "the wheat, measured by the most perfect automatic device, which, by the simple principle of gravity, separates from the flowing stream of grain just enough for a barrel of flour, drops to the first floor of the mill, where the rollers begin their work of crushing. The early reductions serve to crush the grain only slightly, remove much of the bran, and bring the residuum after several crushings, to what is called the granular stage. At each reduction some starch cells are crushed and some fine flour produced, and none of this is allowed to escape with the discarded bran, but is bolted out and reserved for the better grades of flour." "Yards of silk bolting-cloth are used to sepa- rate the fine flour," and when it is realized that the product is made to pass through this fabric, we discover how the afore- The San Francisco Club. 37 mentioned velvety softness of the said l)rand of flour is pro- duced. Thus, over and over again, as the successive hoppers were inspected, it was seen how the said granular part is crushed and recrushed and the fine flour sifted out. Again and again the "middlings," as the still retained mixed product of the rollers is called, are purified hy further sittings and separation, and at a proper stage the germ is removed from the flour. "Its removal is necessary, for, if crushed with the other product, the color and keeping qualities of the flour is affected." It was said that by these various reductions about seventy per cent, of the grain is utilized for food, and the balance becomes bran and shorts. The last reduction of the fine flour is then ready for shipment. The career of Cadwalader C. Washburn, the founder of the milling plant identified with his name, from his youth to that of its climax as that of a successful business man and publicist, reads like a romance, and will ever, no doubt, be treasured as that of the most beneficent that the pages of the history of his beloved city can justly boast. And, too, it should be a souvenir in the memories of all that looked upon those magnificent mills that may well be designated as monuments that may prove to be "]\Iore lasting than brass and towering- Overlook royal pyramids." The flight of time did not admit of a visit also to the Pills- bury milling plant, in near proximity, that has also obtained a world-wide reputation. "Pillsbury Best" and W. & C. Co.'s "Gold Medal" have each attained a climax of quality and im- mensity of product. May the Pilgrims long enjoy a full meas- ure of these coveted results, is the fervent wish of one of them, at least. Having had a toothsome acquaintance with each of these brands he would be unselfish. Had time admitted, many of the company would have liked much to have inspected the methods by which the raging flood of water is harnessed, as it rushes down the feeding incline at an angle of forty-five degrees, with an impetus that suggests the parallel of the American Eapids of ISTiagara. 28 The. Pilgrimage of .Mid-artcniooii had now, however, come, and the Park and Falls of ^linneliaha av.aited us and thitherward we made our way. Here we experienced our first surprise of the combined effect of the horticultural, lake and Fall combined with the zoological and aviary accompaniments. To the majority the Falls of Minne- iiaha, or the Laughing Waters, seemed to be the centre of attrac- tion in its beautiful sheet of some thirty or more feet of altitude — an agreeable volume of water, when the season of the year was considered. The view of the same, both from above and from the vantage of the rustic bridge below the Falls, as indicated by the exclamations of pleasure and the snapping kodaks, with the lingering unwillingness with which the viewers withdrew to rus- ticate amid the other centres of attraction for which the park, with its 173 acres is characterized, bore its own testimony of ap- preciation. And, as the poetically inclined recalled the final exclamation of Longfellow's dying Minnehaha: "Hark ! 1 hear a rushing. Hear a roaring and a rushing, Hear the Falls of Minnehaha Calling to me from a distance," they turned their footsteps from the sylvan environs of what, to manj- of them, was a dream of the imagination, as they, in other days, perused the rythmic lines of Hiawatha, and with the same now realized, they sought their vehicles and sped their way toward the point of the morn's departure. The day having been most auspicious in its cloudless sky and agreeable temi)erature. the remaining hours at our disposal were improved in directing our attention to the suburban resi- dences and tastefully kept grounds of the latter eit}^ that ap- peared to much advantage in the after-glow of the day as they passed in review before us. The rapid approach of the hour of 6 P. M., and the admonitions of the bulletin warn us to return to the Special that has now reoccupied the siding of the morn- ing and is ready for our occupancy. Dinner having been de- spatched after the successive "calls," the agreeable experiences The San Francisco Club. 29 of the day were accepted as a reliable harbinger of wliat tlio future had in store in the upper tier of tlie state, and to many, the unexplored territory of the Dominion. The unanimous v(^r- dict was, at all events, that the pilgrimage thus far had not been in the least disappointing. WW o o o 30 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER V. SABBATH MOEN. 'Che following morning, the 31st, the first Sabbath of our transit, awoke us to the consciousness of new surroundings in marked contrast with those of the previous day as we bounded along over the plains of North Dakota. The 20th having been somewhat of a radical change to the majority of the members of the Club, as compared with the demands of the home life, the val- orous sons and daughters of the puissant Knights of the Temple of the early days were somewhat tardy in responding to the sum- mons of the "first call" to breakfast, and, therefore, they were somewhat unprepared to become interested in the environment. The morning collation, however, being at length despatched, groups of the tardy ones gathered here and there, as choice dic- tated, while the gentlemen of nicotine proclivities betook them- selves to the smoking room, and there, under the nervine effects of their favorite stimulus and the aroma of the fragrant so- called Havana, compared their experiences of the day previous, or the associations of an earlier period at home and abroad. An occasional glance from the uncurtained windows revealed but little of interest to the more luxurious devotees; and yet, from the alternate phases of hillock and depression, patches of woodland and the changing tints of the slow-maturing spring wheat and oats, presented contrasts to the beholder. And later, as the more arid tracts came into view of the dead levels, the inquiry was suggested as to whether, under the resources of intelligent culture these plains also would ever blossom with the verdiire of more congenial soils, or whether the sage brush only would for time indefinite continue to luxuriate upon the alkaline properties of the scant alluvium and the moiety of moisture deposited by partial dews in the long intermissions of cloud deposits of rain and melting snows of later Spring and early Autumn. Or, again, whether the lowing herds or The San Francisco Club. 31 neighing steeds of the ranchman or sturdy plowman will, in the not distant future, enliven the landscape as well as crown the glebe with laughing harvests and the varied products of agricultural toil; or whether the reign of the coyote or burrow- ing gopher (prairie-dog) shall continue uninterrupted — the one flitting here and there over his wild domain, and the latter in his colonies of earth-dwellers pre-empting the scantily clothed surface to the exclusion of the more succulent roots of a more vigorous vegetation, that must be the precursor of a sustained higher life. Overlooking, however, the mischievous habits of the little rodent, and captivated by the rapidity of his movements from burrow to burrow — now standing upright upon his haunches, like the grey squirrel of the East, and cunningly watching us as the train passes by, and then disappearing in a flash by fear or freak into a nearby hole, only to return a moment later under the impulse of curiosity, as if loath to lay aside his coquettishness even at the appearance of fancied danger. Being thus agreeably entertained by his coyish gambols, as other like dwellers by the wayside are induced to repeat the same antics, even the least impressive of the ladies that intui- tively recognize from a fellow-feeling the alleged innocent pen- chant for coquetry, cannot refrain from ejaculations as they watch the role of the little actors. Upon the other hand it must be admitted that some of the more ungentle Knights did not exhibit such gentle consideration as the aforesaid for the prank- ish interloper, but with malice aforethought, gun and bullet sought to cut short the diversions of the latter, and with slaughter dire to stain the soil incarnadine, and inflict cruel death upon the victim of their sport. But not so did the un- willing object yield his liberty and life, but unveiling the dark design of his would-be slayer, he dodges the issue, Being content to run away, That he might dodge another day. THE PASSIXG HOURS. Thus the passing intervals of time are beguiled, and the de- sire for a broader outlook comes to the front. A glance at the 32 The Pilgrimage of itinerary leads the inquirer to make his observations as to his relative location in his nortln\ard flight. It is then discovered that already Valley City, Ivan, Rogers, Wimbledon, Kensal, Car- rington, Leniert, Enirick, Fessenden, Harvey, Anamoose, Bal- four and "N'oltair have been passed, either in the night or early morning and, hence, did not claim a passing notice. At Volva, a small hamlet of some half dozen small houses, that like most of the stations mentioned, were water or mere way stations, the Special stopped for some ten minutes, and all embraced the op- portunity to stretch their limb? and take brief exercise. Sawyer, a similar hamlet, after a short interval, Avas next passed, and Minot, the intersection of the Northern Pacific with the Soo line, some twenty miles further on. from the fact of this junction of the two railway lines, showed considerable improvement in its better built houses of the employes of either roads and their outlying lots. Burlington, Foxholm, Donnybrook and Ken- mare claimed but little more attention than that of mere way stations, except that they marked the stages of approach to other ])oints of greater interest. The hour of mid-day was now upon VIS, and the entire company were in a state of expectancy, from the fact of the scheduled approach of the Special to Portal — the international boundary line station betM'ecn the United States and the Canadian Dominion — although no special importance otherwise was attached to the station. Furthermore, a stop was made here for about a half-hour for the purposes of renewing the water supply of the train, and to await the arrival of the south-l)ound regular. There Avas, therefore, a general exodus from the Special, and the opportunity was improved to inter- view a couple of the representatives of a pair of houses stand- ing a short distance from the station upon the east side of the inilway — the one person being the prond mother of a young hopeful that she bore in her arms. These were soon the center of attraction — the I)abe ])assing from one to another, and at last receiving tlie benefit of a kodak snap-shot. Others, again, amused themselves inspecting a sod-covered hut, which, upon examination, proved to be a deserted cattle domicil in its last stage of degeneracy, h'eturning to the station, one of the em- The San Frcmcisco Club. 33 ployes thereof pointed out the course of the international line passing eastward in front of the aforementioned houses, along a line of stakes that faded away in the dim distance, and west- ward similarly over the apparent pathless plains toward the far horizon, that no doubt upon close inspection would have shown unmistakable cairns of imperishable construction. The whistle signal being given, and the cry "all aboard'' having been heeded, the Special passed over and beyond into the territory of the Dominion as the notes "My country 'tis of thee," made the welkin ring, and thus proclaimed the fact that our transit from the homeland was intended to be brief, and by no means the proclamation of expatriation. As the patriotic strains died away, the unsentimental "first call to lunch" appropriately suggested the proverb of the "utile cum dulce" (the useful with the sweet), and thus extenuating the facts of the situation we were prevailed upon to accept the tran- sition. Estevan, the junction of the Soo, and the southeastern sec- tion of the Canadian Pacific, was the next objective point en route. This fact contributed somewhat to lift the village above the level of the commonplace, and revealed the source of its support. It will no doubt later, as the inducements for immi- gration become more widely known, respond to the new impetus thus naturally imparted. Continuing our northwestern course, as the sun perceptibly inclined toward the western goal, the next twenty-five mile stretch was duly apprehended, when we noticed a slight improvement in the quality of the vegetation, showing the presence of increased moisture in the soil, and the natural result thereof in the more frequent appearance of rural homes that tended to relieve the monotony of the outlook. Halbrite, Weyburn, Yellow Grass, Milestone, Eouleau and Drinkhouse are next noted in due order, as way stations, either of initial points of departure to other localities of the prairies, that do not appear in view to the occupants of passing trains, or as water stations 3 34 2'he Pilgrimage of of the railwa}' division that render a service in connection with the keeper of the same, that are essential to a successful develop- ment of the country whose prime agency is the railway itself — a fact demonstrated in the history of modern civilization; and which, in the particular case in hand, were to us so many mile- stones to register our progress to Pasqua — the next junction that will admit the Special to the western terminus of the Central Di- vision of the Main Line of the Canadian Pacific, as it stretches away to those centres of attraction that have so liberally con- tributed their moiety to the philosophy of modern travel, and thereby incidentally been the prolific parent of these modes of transit, which specifically are the very features of the mis- sion of our own most august Special, that has not thus far faltered in its consciousness of the trust imposed therein. Hence, at this point we note that we are but some eight miles distant from iloose Jaw, which, we are informed, was so named from the abbreviation of the original Indian name that, in the vernacular, means "The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the-cart-with-a- moose-jaw-bone." Specimens of the suggested Indian are also said still to be seen wandering through the town during the hours of business — the population of the same at this time being estimated to be upon an average about 2,000, of all nationalities. As this point is upon the bounds of another even more arid region than that just passed over, it was something of a relief to know that the region before us ere reaching ]\redicine Hat, some two hundred and fifty miles west, would be traversed during the night, and. therefore, not much of a deprivation of landscape attractions would be experienced thereby. The '"first call" to dinner being announced, and a second like summons having been heeded by those that had lingered for a more appetizing interval, it was by common consent agreed upon, when all had been served to their satisfaction in the dining car, to assemble for a sacred song service within the congenial ap- pointments of the observation car. Requisitions having been made upon the members of the Club, it was discovered that there was quite a contingent of instrumentalists upon the piano among the ladies, as well as of trained voices of both sexes. Among The San Frcmcisco Club. 35 the former we note: Mrs. Donaldson, Mrs. Russell and Misses Knight and Spang. And among the gentlemen, not to make invidious distinctions, may be mentioned, Sir Knights John and Walter Heinitsh, of Lancaster, and Sir Knight George Foerster, of Harrisburg. The Committee of Arrangements having provided an assort- ment of music books for such occasions, no difficulty was experi- enced in improvising a select program, appropriate to the as- sociations of the day ; and thus the declining hours thereof and those of early night were rendered vocal with sacred sentiment and song. The opportunity thus utilized in ascriptions of praise to Him that had bestowed such capabilities upon the creatures of His hand, found expression in such grateful accents that the occasion became the precedent for frequent subsequent repeti- tions of similar recitals ere the termination of the Pilgrimage. The hour of retirement to rest having come on apace, the final hymns were sung, when each to their respective sections repaired, and soon "did sleep spread its soft dominion" o'er willing suppliants as they wrapped the curtain of oblivion around them, and entered upon the imaginary experiences of the land of dreams. O O O 36 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER VI. EN EOUTE. First "call to breakfast" having aroused the sleepers upon the morn of the 22(1, they found the Special speeding toward Irvine, and thence to Paslile}', the precincts of Dunmore and Dunmore Junetiou — the last so named from the fact that the Crows' Xest Railroad starts from this point, taking a directly western course, in extension apparently of the general direction by which we had come from Moose Jaw. From this point we again take the northwesterly course toward the Rockies. During the space of the forty miles passed over before arriving at the said Junction, the territory gave evidences of a change in the soil in its geological character from the shallow alluvium to the underlying groups of the Jurassic formation, passing almost imperceptibly into the cretaceous strata, that are rich in their reptilian and shell debris — the latter being often the matrix in AA'hich are found most frequently the remains of the huge saurians of the pterodactyl (colossal flying lizard) and Dinosaur (cross between the alligator and hippopotamus) — this being what is known in geology as the Mesozoic period formation. No doubt that, had we had time to stop over, we might have seen among the curios of Dunmore (or at least at Calgary) some of these interesting remains. The richness of the soil, as shown in the product of its nutritious grasses, makes the outlying dis- tricts particularly adapted to the pa.sturing of horses and cattle, while, at the same time, the more hardy cereals attain to such perfection as secure for their culture considerable attention. Of the evidences of these we saw the scattered herds and ricks, as we nearcd and after leaving Dunmore — the leading propagators being the Canadian Land and Ranche Company, that have, here and there along the line, as we pursued our way by the course that the crow flies, pre-empted the most available tracts. That a someAvhat adequate knowledge of the level of the territory The San Francisco Club. 37 passed over may appear, it is seen that for the space of about 150 miles to this point the descent has been but some twenty- feet. From Dunmore Junction, however, to Medicine Hat — a distance of but five miles, the altitude above the sea level has decreased about 230 feet — the railroad now dropping into the valley of the South Saskatchewan, that is crossed by the railway near the latter station, commands a beautiful view up and down the valley of the river, and a most grateful relief to the monotony of the arid dead levels so recently passed over. The bridge over the said river is of steel, of the most approved modern structure, and impressed us very favorably as we passed over its well-stayed road-bed at considerable height above the rapidly flowing waters in their northeasterly course toward its out-flow into Lake Winnipeg. Our course, as before stated, being north- west, we saw it no more, though we caught a glimpse of its chief northwest tributary at Crowfoot Station, which it touches, as it also does Calgary, some 180 miles further upon our way. Medicine Hat requires a passing notice, with its population of some 2,000 and its local importance as a railway division point, with the necessary accompaniments thereof and its church, hospital and other public buildings that make the place the most important centre until Calgary, as above mentioned, is reached. The deposit of coal of late developed in near proximity, and gas wells, that in the possibilities of the future, contribute to the business of the place and attract capital for further investment. The lowest depression of railway has now been reached since the beginning of our late downward incline to the said river valley bottom; and the road-bed now rises to the higher plateau of the prairie, which continues its upward incline to the distant mountains that upon a clear day are seen to bound the distant horizon, but which at this epoch was obscured by a light haze of impalpable cloud. At the next station of Stair, some eight miles distant, the railroad crosses another of the Canadian Land and Eanche Com- pany's tracts that is their chief centre of cattle rearing. The upward grade to Eowell, a further stretch of seven miles, con- tinues, while beyond a downward grade again succeeds to Suf- 38 The Pilgrimage of field as the Special bounds along at the rate of thirty-five miles per hour. Hoping to get our first glimpse of Bow Kiver, that, under the most favorable atmospheric conditions is said to be seen upon the southern horizon — the river with which we subsequently be- came so well acquainted — the gaze of many was therefore eagerly directed thitherward. But the aforementioned haze still ob- scured, although the intermediate distant alkaline dry levels of shallow lake sites in the refraction of the sun's rays upon the snowy sediment, like a mirage, might readily have been taken for sheets of placid waters; and thus, though not real, they con- tributed to enhance the outlook to the fertile imagination. The landscape, however, after a further short interval, grows in at- tractiveness, and the gentle undulating surface of the glebe in a more luxuriant vegetation gives encouragement for the more frequent ranches and improved farming lands, in which we now see maturing grain of wheat and oats that begin to show the variations of color prior to the harvest, that in the states of the homeland had already terminated some six weeks earlier. We were also informed from reliable sources that this entire plateau is underlaid with two or more beds of coal of good quality, and that natural gas is also found in many places by the sinking of artesian wells; and at Langevin and Tilley rail- way stations upon our way, that gas is utilized for motive power and illuminating purposes. As one approaches the last-named places upon the crisp frosty mornings of the early Fall, the highest peaks of the Rockies may be seen, as also at Crowfoot, which we have now reached, it being the half-way point between Medicine Hat and Calgary. The twelve intermediate stations that we have passed, sepa- rated from each other by the average interval of about eight miles, showed nothing of particular interest, being simply water stations or of other minor importance, inclusive of Cluny. At Gleichen, a small hamlet of some half-dozen modest houses, the Special made a stop of some thirty minutes, during which time the kodaks of the Club were kept busy, some of the Aborig- ines beinff bold enough to come near, and at least three little The San Francisco Club. 39 white girls of from ten to fourteen years of age became well enough acquainted with the ladies as to stand for their photos, and, besides, were the recipients of some favors from the mem- bers of the party. The names of the girls were given, but we do not recall them. Their photos were promised them after time for printing has elapsed, and, hence, their names are still in the possession of the operators. This prolonged stoppage of the Special will, no doubt, under the circumstances, be quite an episode in the quiet life of the hamlet, and the genial bearing of the Knights and their Ladies will no doubt long linger in the memories of those that came in contact with the members of the Club. At ISTamaka, the next station, it was learned that the cattle herds seen grazing upon the grassy slopes, with the additional evidences of agricultural thrift seen particularly upon the south side of the railway, was another result of the proprietorship of the same corporation of the Canadian Land and Eanche Com- pany, that hold, it is said, a tract of land here of 1,600 acres under successful management. Meanwhile, the Eockies have come into full view in the back- ground, and all are assured that ere nightfall we shall come into close proximity with their majestic fronts. Strathmore and Cheadle, four and twelve miles respectively beyond, are passed by the impatient Special ; and traversing another twelve miles still farther on Langdon is reached, from which point the rail- road again descends by a gentle decline to the valley of the Bow River, and ten miles further on, at Shepard, the same is crossed by an iron bridge of substantial pattern, when the topography of the outlook again changes, as the foot-hills of the Rockies are reached. Here, again, another 10,000 acre ranch of the same corporation previously referred to is passed, showing like evidence of thrift and enterprise. After a climb of 400 feet above the level of Gleichen afore- mentioned, the Special reaches Calgary, the beautiful capital of the Province of Alberta, standing as the gateway to the beautiful Bow River, up the valley of which the railway now tal^es its course. Calgary having, it is said, a population of near 6,000, 40 The Pilgrimage of one is prepared to learn of its relative importance as excelling that of any other populous centre between Manitoba and the Pacific coast. Its beauties have attracted the critical eye of the tourist, and it is thus described by one as "charmingly situated upon a hill-girt plateau, overlooked by the white peaks of the Rockies. It is the centre of the trade of the northern part of the great ranching countr}^ and the chief source of a supply for the mountain districts in the mountains beyond." »i/ W \l> o o o The Scun Francisco Club. 41 CHAPTER VII. ON THE EISE. The upward grade of the railway is still maintained, as evi- denced by the slackened speed of the Special ; and the unimport- ant station of Keith is passed at the distance of nine miles, and, at a higher altitude of 175 feet, from Calgary, when the more prominent foot-hills and their terraces are traversed — Big Hill showing its well-rounded shoulders upon the north, and a creek of the same name being crossed a short distance beyond Mitford, hurrying away as if eager to enter the Bow near its junction with Jumping Pound Creek, meandering between the hills in its deliberate flow from the south. These increments, though contributing to swell the volume of the Bow below, seem not to appreciably rob the latter of its dashing force as it rushes past us in its descent from the higher levels, whither, after a further climb of 100 feet, Radnor station is reached ; and Morley, nine miles beyond, two feet still higher, or 4,000 feet above the sea, receives the Special fully equipped in its stalwart engine as a formidable steed "ready to run a race." And here the Bow, as a trusty leader by our side, fresh in its impetus from the heights, shows the pathway it has traversed and the means whereby the defiles of the Eockies have been pierced when, in the days of the dim past, the ancient glaciers plowed their way to the plains below, and in the furrows of their track gave outlet to the wasting snows and ice that lined the mountain flanks, that in full front for a time defied the rays of the fiery orb of day, while safe in their mountain retreats of the higher altitudes, but now coming out into the van of the solar conflict, the icy fetters lost their grip, and the moraines of crushed rock open a pathway to release the pent-up floods whereby the glacial descent is stayed. It is, therefore, asked in skeptic tones, is this a true picture, and shall mortal eye behold a similar scene; or is the narration but a draft upon the imagina- 43 The Pilgrimage of tion of the enthusiastic tourist. We shall see, when we shall have explored the defiles of the upper altitudes and gazed upon the tracery of the contest now driven to the back-ground, but still in active operation under the laws of nature, that though oft- times in appearance slow, yet in the certainties of their product are exceedingly sure. But the actual embrace of the Rockies does not yet receive us, for twenty miles yet lie before us ere the Gap — the portal of our expectations — is reached. ^leanwhile from the vantage ground of the relative altitude looking west and southward the magnificent tiers of foot-hills, as they rise one above another, assert their claim to attention ; and later, being denuded of their heretofore softened outlines, attained at the lower levels, they, as it were, by their approach to the greatly superior heights of their mountain forbears (if the expression may be used) become, as if in imitation, more and more angular ; and more boldly to demand the notice of the tourist, as if in rebuke for an undeserved refusal upon his part of previous recognition. The monopoly of a passing attention is not, however, long maintained, for as the Special approaches Kananaskis Station, the vestibule to the Gap beyond, the fever of excitement rises to grasp every point of observation attain- able in our transit, that nothing of the outlook may be lost. Crossing the river of the same name by a high iron bridge that intercepts the way to the margin of the Bow, up whose course we now more closely take our way, we feel a little disappointed that we cannot view also the Kananaskis Falls, though at the season of the year when the stream is swollen, the sound of the falling waters is said to be heard from the railway train. Coming at length to a nearer view of the Bow, the river and the mountain environment will now for some time divide our attention. And first, of the color of the waters of the same that both now and subsequently attracted our attention, and was the subject of inciuiry by several of our company. The prevail- ing hue was that of a light grey, that at first sight at the level por- tions seemed to be an indication of considerable depth of water; but noticing that the shade still prevailed when the water ever The San Francisco Club. 43 and anon tumbled in wild glee over the obstructing rocks, we were led to inquire further the cause. We subsequently learned that the color was caused by the sediment held in semi-solution that had been abraded from the detached rocks and cliffs against which the ice and water had impinged in their downward flight from the uplands — the former with a pressure that only a knowledge of glacial action can appreciate. But, turning from the stream to its overhanging banks and beetling cliffs, as the road turns toward the rocky ramparts before us, we now intui- tively grasp the thought that the very walls themselves must give way to admit of our further progress, which, in reality they have done by the gateway know as the Gap, from which vantage point the farewell is taken of the plains and foot-hills below. We now enter the huge defile of the Eockies, with their varied aspects that the most graphic pen can never describe, and of which even the artist's brush can give but sectional views of the many, as the vast panorama passes, modified and heightened under all the accessories of light and shadow that cannot be suc- cessfully imitated in their entirety, even by the most gifted masters of the pencil or the engraver's tool. The ranges that alternately transport the vision are the Fair- holme upon the right and the Kananaskis upon the left and opposite side of the Bow from the railway. The first conspicu- ous peak of the latter range is Pigeon Mountain (but why so called we did not learn), which was succeeded in turn by the Wind and the bold peaks known as the Three Sisters. But now we are imder the dominant spell of the constantly changing pictures, as the observer thereof flits from one side to the other of the respective sections of the car to look upon the scenes revealed from either side, fearful of losing something that has no counterpart in the kaleidoscope of nature ; or, in the case of the occupants of the observation car, to take in the combined side views as they are absorbed in the outlines of the receding mountain-scape. And here a remarkable fact is disclosed in the intensified variety of the mountain contour that adds much to enhance the view. Take, for instance, Wind Mountains, that show upon 44 The Pilgrimage of their horizon tracery a rounded, billow}^ appearance, as each peak obtrudes above its neighbor and a common horizontal right line, being separated each from each by comparatively sight de- pressions — one or more of said peaks being somewhat higher than the rest, like the billows of the ocean, and, as it were, petrifac- tions of the latter. This fact, too, at this juncture, seemed to be the dominant feature of the Fairholme range, though the latter is more frequently indented by deeper ravines running northward, and occasionally admitting of a view of their back- ground, which was eagerly seized upon ; when occasion offered, to see what was thereby revealed before the subsequent continuity of the range was resumed. In the case, however, of the Kananaskis range, the peaks are more distinctly individualized, the separations being ofttimes of deeper ravines, or even canons of frequent occurrence. Hence, as the latter present their front, they appear like a huge rank of giants, the files of which are revealed by the deeper canons, and present in their seried columns, their ready willingness to support the gallant challenge of their skirmish line. And thus a most attractive feature is presented by this marked isolation of mountain peaks, not only in the opportunity afforded of bring- ing into view the magnificent support of back-ground, but also of revealing to the eye the effects of the disintegrating agents of sun and frost upon the mass in corrugating into shapes of fan- tastic forms and multitudinous columnar symmetry the huge out-jutting cliffs, while at the same time reveal the constituents of the successive strata. These, under geologic investigation in this region, have al- ready revealed to the scientific inquirer much that, in conjunc- tion with the past upheaval of the subterranean forces, have brought to light secrets of nature that otherwise would have been a closed book in the bowels of the earth. Therefore, we have here evidences characteristic of the different systems, from the metamorphic rocks underlying the oldest sedimentary strata, to those of the carboniferous or coal-bearing that have been brought to light by the observant geologist. Among these have been re- ported the remains of the Devonian (fish-bearing) and the Cre- The San Francisco Club. 45 tacean (reptilian), of which occasion to speak has already risen in traversing the strata of the foot-hills below. Recalling the fact that forces in action direct their attack upon the points of the least resistance with proportionate results, we note the parallel result upon a large scale before us. There- fore, under the action of the subterranean fires of the geologic ages the overlying strata have either been uplifted bodily for a space over limited portions thereof, to the preservation of the horizontal lines of stratification ; or, again, owing to said unequal resistance, have been tilted at all possible angles, and thereby presented different faces or lines of exposure to the ele- ments in their errosive action upon the softer or harder con- stituents of the rocky escarpment. ]\Ioreover, when enrobed in the snowy mantle of the upper altitudes, as it was the happy privi- lege of the Club to see so often consummated during the Pil- grimage, the excess of the grotesque was softened into more regular outline of form and feature that have also valualile accessory effects. These being thus associated in due arra}^ we enjoy to the full the gorgeous effects of sunshine and shadow, either in direct or reflected action, awaking into being the in- imitable visions of beauty and grandeur that flit and chase each other over the play-ground of slope, cliff and canon — a carnival of associations that to be appreciated must be seen. Of one resultant of these commingled lights and shadows specific notice here demands attention in the very prominent shade of color that, like unto royal purple enveloped the lower fields of observation as the Special reveled through the entire visual diapason of this locality, recording the universal verdict that no worthier drapery could be suggested to adorn the royal outlook. Calling attention to this luxuriant shadow-drapery, and discussing the particular shade of color, our companion bystander dissented from the opinion of the writer, and suggested that ashes-of-roses would better describe the atmospheric costume ; but the opinion was still maintained that royal purple best conformed to reality, and the sentiment of the environment. But here, in passing, it may be proper to state that said hue of shadow was not an unknown experience to the writer, for 46 The Pilgrimage of when onjoying tlio rare o))portnnitv of seeing tlic sun rise from the suiniiiil ol' the \\\^\ Alps of Switzerhmd we were similarly iiiiprrsscd with a like vision — the shade of color being so marked and the iinj)ressi<)ii made so indelible (as entered upon our diarv at tlu; time) that w(! cannot but reallirm our present ver- dict and rdcr tlic piiciiomcnon to the same occult causes. During these and like observations, the luxuries of vision passed in rapid review as the eye leaped from crag to crag and ( itibaltlcd peak, while ever and anon the snowy mantle that cn- slu'oudcd the frigid summit bathed in sunlight showed, here an isolated peak, there a mirrow drift, and yoncUu- the silvery thread of rivulet — the harbinger of the awaiting stream bellow — contributing all to awaken like expectations involved in the latcT experiences awaiting the clind)ing 8[)ecial in fulfillment of the assurances of the itinerary. While, however, multitudinous objects mark th(! way, special points t)f interest in the more abrupt peaks attract the notice as they loom up into view. Anu)ng others the very conspicuous group of three ])eaks known as the Three; Sisters, the highest of which is !),7;{l> feet above sea leavel, becouu's most prominent, both in tiieir close proximity to each other and in their diversity of ap- pearance. Standing in a line at an acute angle M'ith the rail- way the most remote one and most lofty, shows the greater de- nuding ell'ects appai'cntly of the elements u|)on its crest. Ter- minating in a somewhat sharper knob, as compared with the other two, but having a broader and outward extending base, a better field for the retention of the snow that ri'sted upon its tianks was atTorded, and, theri'fore, it was more am))ly clothed in this respect. The middle peak of the three was broader at the toj) and more precipitous, and for this reason was nu)re naked of snow or del)ris, while its flanks were also more furrowed by the courses of the summer rivulets and the occasional avalanche of loosened masses that could no longer cling to their mountain seats. Again, the contour of the first of the group showed its summit to bo even more castelated than the central Sister — its rounded keep-like battlements being preserved almost intact except upon 77ie ^ o o o 53 The Pilgnmage of CHAPTER IX. IMPROVISED EXCURSIONS. The iiiorning of the 23d was greeted under the most favorable weather auspices; and breakfast being despatched, busy brains were set to work to map out a da/s itinerary according to the impulses or plans of those that severally affiliated. Hence, some to boating on the Bow, others by seated two-horse carry-alls, by single teams, or by saddle went their several ways — some to the Hot Spring baths and contiguous cave upon the roadway, along the flanks of Sulphur Mountain; others to the Hot Springs Hotel, others to the incline encircling tunnel, and others to Buffalo Park — all resolved to visit each in turn, but in such order as taste might decide. It was, therefore, a matter of much interest to hear the representatives of each group em- phasize what features of the day seemed most likely to monop- olize attention, and from what points of view. We, therefore, assayed to follow the course of a somewhat large group of pe- destrians that started out under the inspiration of the fresh morning air to explore the course of the Bow, as it winds its way from the village toward the Canadian Pacific Railroad Hotel, and as far as the point at which the river, by an abrupt turn from northeast to southeast; and at which point, ere the same is reached, the impulsive stream appears as if about to be lost to the eye for a period by an apparent bulwark of in- tercepting mountains. To linger awhile, however, in our ex- plorations, it is in order to say that at the place where we first reached the banks of the Bow, its breadth does not exceed fifty feet : and following in a channel of about the same depth from the embankment to the surface of the water, the surprise at the rapidity and volume of what is now an enraged torrent is evident upon all faces, while the facilities from the bridle paths that wind in and out along the entire escarpment to points advan- tageous to view the phases of the rushing flood, add, but to pro- The San Francisco Club. 53 long the enjoyment that does not for a moment clog, since new features succeed each other in rapid succession, as we trace our way to the aforementioned objective point. To relieve some of the pedestrians that are a little short of breath from the avoirdupois that they have to carry, or that have not been accustomed from habit to follow such trails, that at certain points are quite precipitous, seats are located at con- venient intervals for short rests. This, of course, applied more particularly to the puissant Sir Knights, since it was found that some of the more ambitious of their Ladies could trip along as if these declivities were mere mole-hills, and, indeed, upon an average they compared Avell in their triiimphs over the asperities of the way. Hence, it was, that both Knight and Lady, from these points of observation, united in their expressions of pleas- ure at the freaks of the mad-cap torrent, now leaping as if in childish glee over the obstructions that predominated in the long incline that only terminated at the brink of the Falls below. Meanwhile, writhing and foaming, dancing and swirling, as the mood prevailed, and then, at length, as if wrought up to com- bative heat the seething flood dashed in sheer desperation against the bare walls of the margin that, in response, as it were, still further encroached upon the river-bed until a point of contrac- tion was reached of not more than twenty feet in breadth of passage, when, in turn, the accumulated waters rush to the contest and in frothy threatenings speed through, when victory is decided in favor of the coctesting waters, a broader front being then attained by which the final plunge is made over the precipice of the Falls — the snowy whiteness of the surface having been maintained from the commencement of the rapids tmtil the strife has ceased at the base of the same, when the now quiet waters reassume their wonted cerulean hue in forgiving forget- fulness, as it were, of the late unpleasantness, that has now eventuated in giving a broader course to the late pent-up stream by the withdrawals of the embankments to a position farther removed, a breadth of eighty feet being now attained as the placid waters move onward to join their expectant confluent below. 54 The Pilgrimage of EEMmiSCENT. Thus entertained by the beautiful picture of the snowy- mantled waters in their descent to their final plunge, memory is active to parallel the experience, when, in an instant, we recall the rapids of Niagara, on the margin of the Cataract House of that city, though it is admitted that the volume of water in the latter case is of much greater mass and momentum. Then, too, the contrast with the mottled colors of the contiguous rocks of the opposite embankment covered with evergreen trees above the line of high water present a relief that but heightens the picture. Thus, noting these and other features of the en- vironment, the sightseers passed down the rapidly declining margin to the point of junction of the Bow with the Spray. Looking now upon the latter for the first time, as it debouches from its contracted bed, we are led to wonder, as we look upon the huge smooth-faced cliff that would seem to obstruct its natural course, and by its opposition like a massive shield to be interposed to prevent further passage, as if such obstruction was an evidence of its conflicts of late encountered in the upper heights? We could not so affirm, though reluctant not to give the benefit of a doubt. Standing now upon the level of the surface of the combined streams, the gaze of all is directed down the course thereof, when, lo, a scene opens up for which we were unprepared; the same having been shut out heretofore to view by the southern projection of the shoulders of Tunnel Mountain, now at our left, and, hence, no longer an obstruction to hide the same as it now burst upon us as a most enrapturing vision. As the said scene, however, can be seen at better advantage from the higher ground of the Hot Springs Hotel, the same will be passed over for the present, and the surroundings of the lower level be viewed more in detail. Loitering, then, for a while longer upon the delta thickly strewn with the rounded remnants of the boulders of earlier periods as they came in contact with each other by the impact of the floods and glacial hammers of that day, we read in miniature the lines of stratification, or the cleavage of abraded fragments, the characteristics of the orig- The San Francisco Club. inals that were brought to birth in the creative epochs of the geologic world, and are now simply the evidences in their coarser state of their forbears, that have long since entered into the body of the alluvium and are there the elements essential to the products of the soil of to-day — evidences these of processes that, in the moraines yet to be explored in the glacial regions, can now be seen in active operation by the inquisitive tourist. HOT SPRINGS HOTEL. The building of the Hot Springs Hotel being conspicuously seen upon the heights at an altitude of at least 500 feet, the suggestion was unanimous that the same should be made our next objective point, and that, too, by the route the most direct that could be utilized. Some following this suggestion from its first mention; and others, taking first a somewhat circuitous path along the contiguous bank of the Spray for a short dis- tance, to obtain some further knowledge of the same, reached in brief time the common roadway that passes around the base of the spur upon wliich the hotel is built — the road-bed here being raised above the cove of the delta and guarded upon the side opposite to the cliff of said spur by a continuous balustrade- like fence for the distance probably of the eighth of a mile, thereby suggested a retreat, that when embowered by the luxuri- ant foliage of the overhanging trees during the warmer days of midsummer, must have been most enjoyable. But, hurrying on, the latter explorers soon came in sight of those that had preceded, and found the same infatuated by the short cuts, struggling up the imperfect trail of a steep incline, with many a laggard halting, ever and anon to recover wind and muscle for further climbs, that seemed for the time as almost of chronic frequency. The writer and his companion having, how- ever, learned the trick of war, that it is always best to flank a difi&culty rather than meet it vis-a-vis, suspected that a detour might be made, and vet not be compelled to follow the longer one of the traveled route. The latter did so; and as a result reached the brow of the Hotel site unimpaired, and ready to grasp the attainable at nearly the same time that the said pant- 56 The Pilgrimage of ing contingent ascended the short flight of steps leading to the veranda of the hotel. Having already taken in the possi- bilities of the outlook, the impulse of the majority was to repair first to the extension of the said veranda that, terminated by the descent therefrom of a few steps in a commodious and well- seated pavilion, over-looking the very range of the valley of the combined Bow and Spray whose delta we had left but a short time before. Our surmise of an enhanced view therefrom of what we had but cursorily gazed upon below was now fully realized. To the question universally endorsed — what vision more entrancing can be imagined than the one spread out before us — we answered not, but expatiating upon the luxury of sense, we became fully conscious that no word of picture could ever embody a faithful transcript thereof, and, hence, that it would be rash to attempt it. MOUNT BUNDLE. Upon the right stands Mt. Eundle, whose highest peak reaches an altitude of 9,665 feet; and upon its hither slopes shows, as compared with others of even less height, a someM'hat better clothing of evergreens, though here and there great rifts ap- pear that cannot be so softened. Looking westward, some four peaks appear in succession, Jutting above the common ridge of more remote ones all of which reminds us of the huge teeth of a circular saw, the rounded intervals between being for the most part regular in contour, but here and there are shown huge seams and scars revealing disintegrations under natural conditions, that sooner or later will level the whole as the result of the conflict still waging. The nearer peak is more dome-like in its higher and remote portions, while it gradually inclines in the left fore- ground toward the valley of observation — the extreme terminus being almost perpendicular, and in lines reminding one of a colossal face looking across the valley at the opposite face of Tunnel Mountain, now upon our left. The latter, though not so elevated, and more regular in its eastern elongation, is also precipitous upon its western face, opposing that of Eundle. This almost duplication of face suggests the possibility, that at one The San Francisco Club. 57 time in the remote past the entire valley was submerged, but that, by come terrific cataclysm of nature, the defying escarp- ment was torn asunder, and the pent-up waters sent upon their devastating course to the overthrow or denudation of the oppos- ing mountain obstructions in the line of descent. THE BACKGEOUND. But not long does the eye rest upon these features of the com- parative foreground, but reveling in the vistas beyond, further peaks to the right of us and confronting peaks to the left of us, open up a still more distance transvere range — all standing on guard, like stupendous fortresses prepared to enfilade all opposi- tion ; while the direct menace of the unbroken range in the back- ground looms up as the centre or final support, defiant of "The wreck of matter, and the crush of worlds." When, also, it is remembered that this association of the entire roster, of defence or castle of peace, citadel and battlement, dome and bastion, turret and fissure are seen enrobed in garbs of in- describable attractiveness, 'neath a cloudless sky, glittering in the sheen of a resplendent sun enforced by the most perfect atmospheric conditions, one may well be excused for indulgence in most extravagant expressions of appreciation and grateful sense of obligation for the benisons of such a feast of vision. 'No defence, therefore, is needed that all reluctantly turn away from further indulgence, even though time flies and calls else- where are imperative. Being now, however, in close touch with the apparently ele- gant and commodious building of the said hotel, all felt a desire to enter the same and see at least some of its appointments, that we felt assured from the wealth of architectural outward display must be equaled by the elegance within. We were not disap- pointed from our observations as afforded by a stroll througli the spacious reception rooms, that revealed the abundance and good taste of the furnishings in accord with the demands of such patrons as that here abide during the period of open house — the roster showing for the last year of record 3,890 guests, not only 58 The PUgrlmage of from the Provinces but for the States and foreign lands. More- over, the atmosphere of gentility that prevailed, and the readi- ness of employes of all grades to give information, and render desired service in conducting through the apartments, even to the running of the elevators at the request of those that wished to visit the upper stories was patent to all. We could, therefore, but readily infer, that the lavish expenditure of capital evidenced upon all sides, demonstrated the determination of the manage- ment to make the locality a place of permanent resort that in time must rival the choice retreats of foreign lands. While some of the ladies and their partners still lingered to examine the curios treasured for that purpose, or for sale; others perambu- lated the verandas upon the north side of the building — most convenient points of observation to take in at full view the im- posing front of SULPHUR MOUNTAIN", with whose hot spring founts the hotel is connected by ample piping — the chief springs being located some 800 feet above the road level. o o o The Som Francisco Club. 59 CHAPTER X. MODES OP TRANSPORTATION. We note also tlie rneanfi of transportation to the heights in the form of vehicles and saddled horses, with their guides standing ready for hire in the hotel court, as this is the chief initial point f(M- the idoh; permanent patrons to take for their day's outing. After taking in at a hroad view, the pyramidal form of the mountain and noting the marked regu- larity with which the natural parallelism of the strata com- posing the rocky structure has been preserved, notwithstanding the agency of upheaval, by which at an angle of 45 degrees the dip of the same has been attained, our attention was further ar- rested l)y further pai'ticulars that came within the range of our vision. Other associations based thereupon will be mentioned later as, in turn, they come under a more minute observation. Lifting our gaze to the summit of Sulphur Mountain we note the upper portions of a building perched upon its highest point that attracts our notice; and upon inquiry we learn that the same is the Observatory that there was erected by the Provincial Govern- inent for scientific purposes. The building is a stone structure, 14x18 feet in dimensions, and surmounted by a 26-foot tower. The site of the same is 7,455 feet above the sea level and 2,946 feet above the level of the railway bed. The Observatory was dedicated and formally opened August 13, 1903, hy Masonic cere- monials at a communication of the three Masonic Lodges, "Cas- cade," "Perfection" and "Bow River," convened for that pur- pose, and the fact inscribed upon a suitable tablet. The Minutes of the said Lodges giving the details would, no doubt, be most interesting even to the uninitiated, but want of time prevented further quest in this direction. This Observatory, being erected as already stated, for the recording of scientific data, the same is connected by electric cable with the Government Museum at Banff, under the charge 60 The Pilgrimage of of Mr. Howard Douglas, who is also the superintendent of the park (to which we have before referred), and by this means the velocity and current-direction of the wind, with the temperature at fixed hours during the da}^ is automatically registered. Upon this data further meteorological inferences are based, and, hence, the value of the institution is likely to be permanently estab- lished. Also that the general public may have the benefit of the mag- niticent prospect there afforded, a bridle path has been also constructed, of a breadth varying from six to eight feet, and is reported to be very compact and of easy ascent — the grade being one foot in six, and the distance by the circuit of loops about three and three-fourths miles from the railway at our feet. We were led to inquire particularly concerning these facilities, and tlierefore, it was with much regret that we had to deny our- selves a trip to the summit, there being so much yet of interest to visit at the lower levels, that can be surveyed within the time still at our disposal, but that would otherwise have to be neglected. Therefore, after a final circuit of the exterior of the hotel, and an examination of its extensive and elaborate bath accommoda- tions, with an inspection of the approaches to the court, the com])any started upon their return to Banff. Taking the easy incline of the roadway to the village, that we might further ex- plore immediate localities, arrangements were there made with- out loss of time, partly by teams there in waiting and some by foot ; as the interval to be traversed was but a trifle, the combined cavalcade started to their next objective point — that of the upper Sulphur Springs of the Cave and the Basin. These are situated about a mile from the bridge crossing the Bow, and are reached by a semi-macadamized road of easy level and gradual incline, and, therefore, readily, accessible by the pedestrians. The Cave and Basin are but a short distance apart, and are both located in the rear of neatly-built cottages, to which access is allowed free of charge — the fee for the benefit of a bath being twenty-five cents. The San Francisco Club. 61 CAVE AND BASIN. The cottage of the Cave is of Swiss pattern, with gable to the front, and is mounted upon a stone-protected embankment. The entrance to the Cave is through the cottage, from the rear end of which a tunnel is pierced to the natural cave of the hot spring. The guide in charge of the same, being supplied with a torch, leads the way through the tunnel for a distance of probably fifty feet. This discovery of the cave and its enclosed pool of hot water is said to have been made by the engineers that projected the route of the railway through the valley, from the fact that their attention Avas attracted by what appeared to be a column of smoke arising from a special point for a number of days in succession, and they were led to explore the cause of fhe same. Eeaching the place of issue, they discovered an orifice in the rocks of about two feet in diameter; and that what had appeared as smoke was really vapor condensed by the air into a smoke-like cloud, and that the same was strongly impreg- nated by sulphur fumes. Curious to know further of the mys- teries of the source, it was determined to lower one of their number through the orifice by means of a rope, and thus explore what could be reached by this means. The result was the pool of hot water before us, though the edges are now somewhat pro- tected upon the side of entrance to the cave by a concrete es- carpment and a narrow platform of observation for the benefit of visitors. We were informed 1)y the keeper and guide, Mr. Gal- letly, that the average temperature of the water is 114 degrees, and, hence, is not too warm for bathing purposes. The keeper, in relating the above concerning the discovery of the cave by the said mode of descent, said that certain women had boasted that they had descended from the opening at the top by the rope before the tunnel was opened ; but that he (the keeper) was led to doubt their declarations for the reason, if no other, that these very persons were so timid that they could hardly be in- duced to approach the brink of the pool for fear that something dreadful might happen to them. It happened, however, that there were several ladies that had joined the party, who were (52 The Pilgrimage of strangers to us ; and overhearing this expression of doubt by the speaker, one of them spoke up, and endorsed the veracity of the accused ladies. The keeper was still unconvinced, and repartees were in order on both sides. The latter being a venerable Scotchman, was, like his race, not likely to change his opinion, since, like Goldsmith's village schoolmaster, e'en "Though vanquished, he could argue still." Later, the said lady disputant told one of our company that she had herself descended the rope as had others. Learning, subsequently, that the said lady was the wife of the Vice-Presi- dent of the Commission having official charge of the Park under the Government, it was anticipated by some of the visitors that the keeper would be asked to resign. We took no part in the "scrap," and, hence, express no opinion pro or con of the keep- er's want of gallantry. The appearance of the cave suggests the inside of a Jug, which it much resembles in contour, though its walls in places are more or less incrusted with shallow stalactitic formations of sulphur and carbonate of lime, and among these the keeper pointed out faintly traced profiles of faces, a lion, an eagle, etc., though under the uncertain light we found it necessary to imagine more than we were willing to confidently admit. From the character of the incrustations, it is evident that the largest percentage of mineral in solution in the water is in the form of sulphuric acid and lime; and it is said that an analysis has disclosed that 75 per cent, of these elements have been tested, besides showing decided traces of magnesia and silica, and less of soda and chlorine, with a still less trace of lithium. Of the last-named chemical constituent one authority has stated that the quantity in solution is considerably in excess of many samples of lithia waters that are on sale in the East. Having at length exhausted the loquacity of the keeper, the company next visited the cottage of the Basin, and thence went out to the environs of the bathing pool. This, we found, to be most substantially surrounded by a parapet of concrete pro- The San Francisco Club. 63 jecting about a foot above the side-walk — the bottom also being similarly protected to avoid leakage or injury to the feet of the bathers. The pool is being constantly supplied by piping from the Cave and other springs more recently discovered from points farther up the mountain, so that there is no lack of supply — the waste being constantly renewed. As we approached we were forcibly reminded of the gambols of the inmates of some of our seal pools of our eastern zoo gardens, from the appearance of the black skins of the bathers that ever and anon emerged from the surface of the water after diving from the spring-boards of the parapet of the pool — the said divers being the porters of our Special that were having a holiday also, as well as the Sir K's and their Ladies, and as well pleased as the latter to enjoy the diversions of the locality, and thus luxuriate in the tepid waters, with as high a degree of satisfaction as was purchasable by the millionaires that here do ofttimes resort. We did not envy them, though personally we did not participate in like ablutions. o o 64 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XL RETRACING STEPS. Again the hour reminds us that we must not longer linger here, but away on further explorations. Retracing, therefore, our course to the village and station, and partaking of a hasty lunch, we make further conveyance arrangements, and start upon the ascent of the "Cork-Screw," as the spiral encircling the Tunnel ]\Iountain is called. This mountain is so named, as we were informed by our driver, from the fact that when the railway was first laid out, it was thought that it would be neces- sary to tunnel the same in a line more direct to the Banff Sta- tion. Later, however, it was decided to make a long detour of some five miles around the mountain toward the east from the point visible at the upper end of the valley of the Bow, as seen from the pavilion of the Hot Springs Hotel before spoken of — the said detour being made to pass, as now, the Buffalo Corrall, and thus compensate by this course in securing the mag- nificent scenery now brought to view that otherwise would have been lost to tourists in transit to Banff. To return to our point of ascent, we were glad to notice that the road-bed was in such good condition under the constant supervision of ap- pointees of the government — the grades being easy and the surface as exempt as possible from roughness. Taking the up- ward incline upon the side facing the village we were soon above the hummocks of the lower levels and the tops of the trees springing therefrom ; and, as provided for by the engineers of the road, we found at convenient intervals level plateaus or points of observation extending outward from the roadside toward the valley of Banff, that the occupants of vehicles or pedestrians might walk out upon, and others be enabled to take in the prospect of the valley below and the broad expanse of the mountains, including the localities upon the opposite side that we had visited earlier in the day. Stopping for a The San Francisco Club. 65 sufficient pause upon one of the best of these plateaus, we de- termined to note more particularly what the outlook afforded. Here, again, we felt that the artist should have made his abode for awhile and subsidized his skill to embody as nearly as pos- sible upon his canvas the ravishing scene. We can, however, in our attempt to fix as helps to the memory, mention simply the succession of peaks commencing at our right that were as- sociated with our first approach to the valley upon the previous evening. To the east we have the Inglismaldie, which is, per- haps, seen at better advantage as regards its mass from the point of observation of the Hot Springs Hotel pavilion and the last reverse curve around the extreme point of our present route to the west, but is mentioned here to keep up the continuity of our present background of observation. It is, therefore, dis- closed as a snow-crowned mass rising to the height of 9,785 feet, and appearing like the central round tower of some ap- parently inaccessible citadel. Its nearest neighbor to the south- east is the precipitous cone of Peechee, named, it is said, after a noted Indian chief, as also in the case of Assiniboine, lying to the south of Banff and not to be seen from this point, though attaining the lofty height of 11,860 feet, and yet has been ascended, as has also all the other peaks within our present range of vision. THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN. The huge mountain immediately in our front to the north is Cascade, and is said to derive its name from the huge cascade that, at certain periods earlier in the season, from the melting snows of its loftier heights pour down its southern flanks. Our first view of it was as we approached Banff, near the station of Anthracite. As seen from the latter point of view it appears like an immense broad-based cone, betokening solidity, with its concentric curves of strata reaching their lowest areas in an axis central with the summit which appears like the broken crater of an extinct volcano, that suggests the thought of the possibility that the whole mass had originally been elevated in a body, and subsequently its central support having 5 66 The Pilgninage of been removed the superincumbent section had subsided, and that so gradually that the strata had dropped by a regular gradation and, hence, the uninterrupted parallelism of the said curvature. From our present point, however, the crater-like top is but diminutive and unbroken upon its rim, while the lines against the sky descend in more wavy lines than upon its eastern slope. The face, however, now opposite to us is seamed upon its upper section into three huge gullies that converge into one vast central one at a point about midway to the top; and thus supplies the bed for the cascade before mentioned, but now the apparent channel whose bottom is of a comminuted sediment of glistening whiteness that, with but little effort of the imagination, can easily be transmuted into a congealed flood of glacial ice and its attendant phenomena. vSuch, indeed, is its superincumbent burden during the vernal months and approach- ing solstitial period ere the solor rays liquify the mass and gravity urges the combined thousand streamlets into one thunder- ing torrent as it hurried away to swell the volume of the re- ceiving Bow. While, then, this is the reality of the periods cited, the later months give rest to the slumbering forces that seemingly are now held in reserve until old Boreas, rushing down from tlie Xorth again, assumes his sway. Being the loftiest peak of the range, 9,825 feet in altitude, it may well boast its athletic proportions, as, imclothed by vegetation, it stands out in its bare brawn, and as its rocky muscles disclose its wrestling thews sloping away by regular gradations to a common line of juncture, we may well accept its defiance satis- fied not to dispute its pre-eminence, but rather rejoice in its cxhilntion of strength. And yet its prowess has been conquered by man, its summit having been scaled and its geological secrets brought to light by the exposure to view of its fossil remains, some of which have been gathered and are now treas- ured among the curiosities of the local museums. Their history will, no doubt, be spread upon the page of some reviewer at no distant day, in further revelation of the aeons of long ago. Xext in order comes the Stony Squaw Mountain, with its harsh name, the origin of which we did not learn, which is The San Francisco Club. 67 separated from Cascade Mountain by Forty-Mile Creek, and which, from the fact of its being mostly tree-covered, possesses no particular feature of attraction, except as a matter of contrast to its naked neighbor at its left ; and for its privilege of having its foot laved by the gentle waters of the vermilion lakes that are the expansion of the Eiver Bow, that here seems languidly to rest ere aroused to take its plunge down the valley below, as already recorded, toward its junction with the Spray. It is here that the devotees of rod and line are said to find rarest sport, or the wielder of the oar find wonted exercise, paus- ing ever and anon to gaze upon the mirrored surface of the lake that duplicates the shadowy outlines of the environing mountains, as they are faithfully defined thereon — a fact that can be readily verified by simply lifting ones eyes aloft to the huge originals. As the writer, however, did not personally enjoy these latter experiences, we could only accept Avhat the more sportsman-like gentry of our company could relate, and, therefore, to them the more inquisitive will have to appeal to complete in a well- rounded whole the combined reminiscences of the day. FLANKS OF TUNNEL MOUNTAIN. After this long digression, let us return to our plateau of ob- servation upon the flanks of Tunnel Mountain, from whence we were betrayed into an interruption of our ascent in doubling its precipitous sides, our baitings at successive places of like observation, and repetitious of like experiences in their results of intensifying the same, we continue to ascend to the extreme western spur of the summit overlooking the aforesaid valley of the combined Bow and Spray, as already adverted to, whence we are again privileged to view the panorama of the morning and at a much higher elevation. It had, however, lost none of its attractiveness, but Avas rather supplemented by the ad- vantage of another point of view, with all the favorable results thereof, as already stated in their reinforcement of the memory. Turning this point of farthest remove, we now make a slight descent, then another detour around a projecting spur into a 68 The Pilgrimage of considerable tree growth; then again an ascent of loop, to again descend upon the eastern flank preparatory to a series of de- scents and loops into the valley of original departure in the vicinity of the Buffalo Corral, with its enclosed area of 800 acres that the government has set apart under strict police surveillance as a preserve of the buffalo and other animals indigenous to this latitude and locality in the days before the avarice of the hunts- man sought to depopulate these wilds. BUFFALO COERAL. Reaching the entrance to the park, and after entering the high- wired enclosure, we passed a doe and two fawns quietly grazing in an open space, that stopped but long enough to gaze at us, as if aware that we were harmless ; and, moving rapidly forward after a matter of a few minutes, we arrive at the cages of the wolf, the red foxes and the coyotes for a short inspection, and then pass on to the centre of interest, viz, the bison group. These were soon found in a separate enclosure, fenced off to restrict their movements from encroachment upon those parts that are traversed by tourists, and from the other animals that move about at will in their own enclosures. The overseers are alwa3's on hand when tourists are in evidence, and from them we learned the variable moods of the buffalo that, in a measure, cannot be anticipated, they appearing at one time to be gentle and approachable and then again so treacherous that near con- tact at all times is to be prudently avoided. We counted in the herd some forty-eight, mostly adults, with a considerable of a minority of yearlings and calves moving around freely among the rest. At times the keepers said that the bulls have pitched battles among themselves, and they fight very viciously and even to the death if they are not separated. From what we saw we could not but conclude that the effort upon the part of the provincial government to prevent the extinction of the bison will be successful, said animal having during the past score of years entirely disappeared from the prairies and plains, both of the States and the Provinces. It is, therefore, to be hoped that the experiment made and the cost already incurred will, as The Sati Frwnclsco Club. 69 time advances more rapidly enlarge the herd by natural in- crease, and thus perhaps afford opportunity to others interested in propagating this aboriginal animal to secure a nucleus from this attempt to develop a like enterprise in other localities, to the permanent perpetuation of a species that arc now rarely seen even in zoological gardens by the masses of the people. But the sun has now passed behind the great Cascade, and only the opposite heights retain his beams, and we, therefore, are reminded that the hour is at hand when we must return to the Special. So, driving along leisurely to said objective point the Knights and their Ladies are seen to converge thitherward from all directions, and soon the "first call to dinner" is proclaimed; while belated ones continue to join the crowd of those on the waiting list, content to take a short respite of rest before attack- ing the bill of fare that a responsive appetite will find no further appetizer necessary from an offensive standpoint. The day has been a full one, and many, now that dinner is despatched, after a trip to the smoking room, or a quiet sociable, early seek their couches in complacent moods — the porters having already anticipated orders. Silence soon settled down upon the Special, after a short palaver behind the curtains as to what had become of their pajamas — a tight fit being some- times supervening or the loose robe disclosing an unusual liberty of limb ere the final adjustments are consummated and the pillow finally brought into requisition. o o o 70 21ie Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XII. THE ADIEU TO BANFF. The coming morn of August 24th was greeted almost before we were aware, when, with recuperated strength and renewed desire, the demands of the itinerary are heeded, and the Special takes another flight to other fields yet to be surveyed. The train, as it leaves Banff, passes between the base of the spur of Mt. Bundle, upon which the Hot Springs Hotel is built, and the foot of Sulphur. We next traverse a thickly-wooded section and by the margin of shallow lakes, entangled with accumula- tions of underbrush, and suggesting nothing of special interest. But not long are we thus imprisoned, but we soon pass out onto solid ground, and a somewhat broader outlook. Leaving the Bourgeau Eange oil' at the south, whose highest peak visible ia 9,350 feet in altitude, we soon are greeted upon the right by the strikingly broad base and bold shouldered peak of Mt. Massive, the first out-cropping of the Sawback Eange that will now for awhile occupy our attention. Both before reaching Mt. Massive, through a depression Ijetween the same and the north- ern flanks of Sulphur Mountain, and after passing the same, the lofty pinnacle of Mt. Edith, 9,154 feet high, is seen in its inac- cessible grandeur. Its walls upon the one side are almost per- pendicular, while upon the other a little less precipitous shoulder suggests the ])ossibility of an ascent by an intrepid and experi- enced climber. Even during the deepest falls of the winter, it is said that the snow does not cling to its precipitous sides, but pinnacle like, its topmost peak pierces the blue empyrean as if unwilling that its naked sides should muffle the shrieking blast that sweeps its face — a fit substitute for cathedral chimes. Xow turning to the left we ol)served in the distance numer- ous peaks unnamed as the mark of the line of the western horizon. Three more conspicuous ones, however, in the nearer foreground, command the attention, the first of an altitude of The San Francisco Club. 71 8,500 feet, the second 9,750 feet and the third 9,630 feet, consti- tute the Pilot group, so called because its highest peak has long been recognized as a land-mark that may be seen at a great dis- tance in the open from many directions. The exposed cliffs of all the mountains bordering our course have now assumed a yellowish-brown tinge that, in the evident admixture of clay and iron pyrites and exposure to the atmosphere, have assumed this color, and, hence, explains the easy erosion of the mountain walls by the elements, and the castellated forms separated by vertical grooves or natural lines of cleavage. Hence, this type of nature's architecture seems to prevail in association with other varieties of form and figure as the freaks of the storm agencies would have them be. They are not of a kind as to substratum in which one would expect to find cavernous formations, and yet in apparent defiance of the claims of the calcareous rocks to such a distinction, our attention was arrested by the appearance of what is named "Hole-in-the-wall" — an opening upon the face of a perpendicular cliff at a point 1,500 feet above the level of the railway, with no apparent means of ascent thereto. It has, however, been explored and was found to be a chamber 16 feet wide, 12 feet from floor to ceiling and at its minor end, 160 feet from its entrance, terminating in a chimney-like opening extending to the open air above, at the top of the mountain. This fact may reveal the method of entrance to the cave, though of this we were not informed. Until this point has been reached the woodland margin skirt- ing the Bow, that winds, doubles and turns in and out, in sup- port of its reputation, upon our left has somewhat obstructed our view, except at stated intervals in that direction, but now ad- hering to a bed somewhat more distantly removed, therefore, affords more frequent views of the mountainous background upon that side. As we now, however, approach the bounds of THE GOVERNMENT PAEK. upon whose domain we have expatiated during the past forty- eight hours, the outlook broadens towards the west, our course still continuing a little west of north since leaving the vi- 73 The Pilgrimage of ciiiity of Mt. Massive, we now reach Castle Station, or siding, so named from the mountain of that name that now looms to a height of 9,500 feet a short distance beyond at our right. We are soon, however, comparatively near its base and skirt the same for a distance of eight miles, viewing at will its bald face, a sheer precipice rising 5,000 feet above our level at an average distance, we estimate by the naked eye, of about one-half mile, conscious however of the deception of distances in this most perfect transparency of atmosphere, and yet aware that we are far enough removed to view the engaging facades in the greatest perfection. And we may add that there was almost a fascination in the succession of phases that it presents to the eye — the features being predominant that give the name to the long and almost unbroken ledge that reveals every variety of defense and ornament that characterized the castles of the feudal ages like those of the Ehine, bonny France or post Norman England, whose frowning battlements and strong walls, flanked by embrasured towers, disclose the san- guinary feuds that raged in those earlier historic days, or the more primitive forms of still earlier times of donjon or keep, standing isolated from other supporting adjuncts, or, again, suggestive on the other hand of the more modern structures of Windsor or Heidelburg, with their enclosed subsidiary buildings, whose spires or minarets pierce the air above the modern classic escarpment. Tracing thus these resemblances in their sugges- tive connections, as they stood out emblazoned in the gorgeous sunlight and circumambient air, the scene was naturally en- hanced as the mental capabilities of the beholder participated in the luxuries of the occasion. Had the passing view been that of but a glimpse through a vista ; or one lost to sight by an abrupt turn of the railway therefrom, the vision would not have been so prolonged; but its continuance over the space of eight miles made an impression that will be most lasting. At several points of breakage in the summit line, as viewed from an angular point of view, it was seen that the top appeared like a plateau almost level, or gently descending toward the mountain's rear, along which the Johnston's Creek cuts its way and empties into the The San Francisco Club. 73 Bow near the Sawback Station, already passed. And such, we learned, was really the case; and that the view disclosed from the brow is also said to be most pleasing in the wide prospect opened up. This, however, we could not verify and, hence, must leave this outlook to the imagination. COPPER MOUNTAIN. Meanwhile turning again to the side at our left we notice toward the southwest the upper heights of Copper Mountain, having a respectable height of 9,130 feet, but being removed at a much greater distance from the railway and appearing as an isolated peak, it could not be inspected with anything like the minuteness as the more attractive range at our right. A backward view from the observation car of the same, as well as of Pilot Mountain, whose most prominent peak from this point has been compared to a leaning tower high elevated above the bulwarks of its supporting ledges in the foreground. These, with the general ranges of the Bow, are now brought out in perspective more prominently than if seen in full front from points further east, their outjutting spurs in wild confusion, as seen from our present point, appearing like so many tented parks clothed for the major part of the year in their immaculate garb of driven snow. And here, in passing, it may be noted that our railway elevation at Castle Station, is 4,570 feet, while at Eldon Station, that we are now approaching, it is 4,720 feet, thus showing our gradual ascent during the past seven miles of 150 feet. Again, looking backward along the line of Castle Moun- tain before taking our final leave of the same, we feel that its prowess does not weaken in the least, but as it was, it still is now, and we hope will ever continue to be, like others of its peers passed in the valleys below, worthy to "greet and glad" the many future tourists that may pass this way. Eldon Station being passed and Baker Creek being crossed, our gaze is again directed to the west, and we mark our nearest approach to TEMPLE MOUNTAIN, the most lofty that has heretofore crossed the field of vision, being 11,535 feet high. Its summit having been first visible 74 The Pilgi-imdge of from Cascade Station, now in our rear, some eighteen miles away, we are somewhat prepared to inspect the same at closer range, as it forms the southern sentinel of almost equally formid- able peaks farther to the nortii, and which, in due time, we will no doubt have pass before us in due array. Standing in the foreground, as it Mere, alone, being separated by an off-shoot of the Valley of the Ten Peaks from Pinacal Mountain, which lies further to the southwest, there is nothing 1o dwarf it from our point of view. Thus seen, it consists of a central peak, flanked on each side by two massive shoulders, depressed but a little lower than their intervening object of support, and, hence, we are reminded of the giant Titans of ^lytholic lore, whose strength was capable of overturning moun- tains from their bases, and thereby spreading devastation far and wide by their strength, that even utilized their volcanic fires that they heretofore had preserved smouldering in the bowels of the earth. And yet it now stands before us as but the picture of reserved strength, betokening thereby, as its name suggests, \mi the synonym of a strength that is native only to supernal heights toward which it points, as if to awaken deeper feelings of awe sublime. Moreover, we are also reminded of Goldsmith's quartern: "As some tall cliff, that lifts its awful form. Swells from the vale and midway leaves the storm. Though 'round its breast the rolling clouds are spread. Eternal sunshine settles on its head." The Special hastens on to the now rapidly approaching sta- tion, at which point we have already been informed that the pedestrian capabilities of the vigorous Knight and Lady will again be brought into requisition. Passing along the foot of Slate Mountain, a sub-range of the Sawback, that here is also interrupted by Corral Creek, we are brought up at a round turn to the platform of Laggan Station, at the end of a 210 feet climb from Eldon. The San Francisco Club. 75 CHAPTER XIII. LAGGAX STATION. Overlooking the area at the rear of the station, we see that the means of transportation to the mountain lakes, that are here the chief centres of attraction, are so limited that it is suggested at a glance, that a greater part of the Knights and their Com- panions will be obliged to forego the mount of fiery capari- soned steed with lance at rest, but as humble footmen scale the heights to view the lacustrine gems there enshrined — the first of which, Lake Louise, is two and one-half miles away. To many of them, however, having previously wrought in the ranks, and thus cultured both mental prowess and hardened muscle, the difficulties of a mountain escalade were but a trifle even to the veteran squad, whose gray locks and begrizzled beards gave pledge of their past endurance upon many a previous hard- fought field. Hence, with the two venerable Sir Knights from Eamey and Grant the writer volunteered to scale the heights, having first placed their Ladies in the waiting chariots, mean- while leaving the younger Knights to escort the "Eed Cross" contingent, who had courageously volunteered to accompany their puissant companions, that they might be on hand to minister to those that might fall by the way, or, in actual conflict with op- posing forces, might need the bandage, or the use of other appli- ances of more serious import. Fortunately, the course was that of a gentle incline of 1 in 18, though in some parts about 1 in 10. The road follows the stream that drains Lake Louise, and though somewhat picturesque in its numerous miniature falls and limpid waters, it was not for the most part different at this season from the like streams that course down the ravines that separate the peaks of the region. The bright sunshine, the equable temperature and the exhilarating air contributed to make the climb less fatiguing than had been apprehended — the company reaching the chalet erected by the Canadian Pacific 76 The Pilgrimage of Kailroad Company that occupies an excellent site at an eleva- tion of some fifty feet above the level of the lake, and that, too, without the loss of a single straggler, much less the serious dis- qualification of a single Sir Knight or Lady to meet the de- mands before them. Standing upon the veranda or rampart of the Chalet, Lake Louise stretches out before the beholder as a "thing of beauty and a joy" (if not) "forever" — yet a joy that will linger so long as the gems of the itinerary may be treas- ured in the casket of memory. A sheet of cerulean blue lying in a mountain pocket at an alti- tude of 5,645 feet, stretching in length one and a half miles away toward a background that shuts it in by a gentle ascending cove, terminated by the lower line of the glacier and upper heights of Mt. Victoria; and in breadth one-half mile, washing the foot of the Beehive upon the right and Faiview mountain upon the left, we have a jewel, indeed, of sapphire hue set in a bezel that only the God of Nature could have wrought ; and thereby supplied a facet of reflection that changes with the successive hours of day, as when Aurora, "rosy-fingered goddess of the morning," casts its roseate colors upon the aqueous canvas; or as "when the evening sun supine "Lies rocking on the ocean cloud like unto a god, And throwing his weary arms far up the sky. And with vermilion-tinted fingers toys With the long tresses of the evening stars," only to turn his counterpart reflections upon this mirror of the mountains, content to depart as he "wraps the drapery of his couch about him ere he lays him down to pleasant dreams," his aftermath still lingering in its corruscations amid the sympathetic echoes of this lovely vale. Although we saw it not, arrayed in these carnation robes, yet we think it not a sacrilege to so invest our fair Louise, knowing full well that the verdict of former experiences sanctions the eulogy in the sequences of such a conflict of lights and shades amid the contributory forces of such an environment, that has ofttimcs given reality to the The San Francisco Club. 77 triumphs of the artist and the poet in their reproduction of their visions of Nature. Beholding, however, this object of our esteem, as it now is bathed in the Aurean sheen of the mid-day sun, when the deepest contrasts of gold and blue assert their strength, and the environment conspires to heighten the effect, we lay claim to the right to complete the picture as realized in the earlier and later day, and thus transfer the same to the retina of memory for the reflections of later days. But as accessory to this retention of vision we do not forget to direct our gaze to the surrounding accompaniments. Mt. Victoria, in the back- ground, cannot, if we would, be overlooked. Clothed, as she stands robed in snow of varying depth and breadth, resting her feet upon a glacial footstool and her summit piercing the pure cerulean at a height of 11,430 feet, we Avould not, if we could, consign to forgetfulness, and thus deny to her her meed of honor. The varying effect of the sunlight, as it falls at dif- ferent angles upon its opposing surfaces, as already referred to in connection with the lake, has also its counterpart upon the heights, flanks and glacial front of the mountain. The Chaste white of the snow-beds now glisten in the sun in glad response to the full flood of the direct rays; and in turn the shadows of intercepting spurs are transformed into shades of mellowed blue, while a silence, that may almost be felt, prevails ever to the listening ear. And, now, lifting our gaze to the cliffs of the upper half, we see in measured stories the huge masonry super- imposed, as if by hand, that gives an impression of capability of endurance that the warring elements of a thousand years cannot efface. Being thus assured it sheds its covering at will to add to the excess of waste at its feet, that must, however, yield its increment to the lake below, with occasional contribu- tions to the underlying moraine whose constituents are, in turn, but the cast-off fragments of the mountain base, and not of the bone and sinew of the majestic personality. The intermedi- ate glacier, it is true, is subject to the constant law of change; but in that it is renewed by the same law as the seasons come and go, it too may claim a substantial permanency upon which the lake may with confidence depend for its supplies to compen- 78 The Pilgrirruig& of sate for its overflow discharged to swell other treasuries below, and still retain its own abundant stores. THE BEEHIVE. And now, turning to the mottled walls of the Beehive, at our right, whose outjutting crags show upon their upper bearings a more gradual incline than its vis-a-vis across the lake; yet its apparent stubborn resistance to erosion tends to impart to it a self-sufBciency upon which its protege, the lake, ma}' depend as in no sense inclined to deliver any too liberally its sediment to reduce the depths of the latter — the measure- ment thereof being 600 feet, we were informed, and therefore of such depth that an assumed permanency in this respect may be relied upon for an indefinite future. Therefore, while the bold crags of the Beehive vipon the margin of the lake are bare, as also the heights of the same enclosing the upper lakes, this is not the case with the opposite Fairview; those of the latter being tree-clothed for a considerable distance toward the summit, and, therefore, are the source of much of the tanglewood through which much of the waste-water of Louise has to force its Avay, as has been before stated, to the valley of the Bow. The bare upper heights have also their buffetings with the elements of the changing seasons ; and though at present denuded of snow, yet their flanks show ample receptacles for the retention of the winter's downfall and sources of supply for the nestling at its feet. About 200 feet distant from the Chalet, a well-constructed wharf and boat-house supplies a variety of craft for the boating fraternity — advantages that some of our Sir Knights were not slow to appropriate. If any went so far as the cove, or base of the glacier, we did not hear thereof and, therefore, cannot speak. MIRROR AND AGNES LAKES. After taking a ])road view of Louise, the writer consulted with one of the aforesaid venerable footmen. Sir Knight Minds, as to whether we should attempt to scale the steep incline of the Bee- The San Francisco Club. 79 hive to Mirror and Agnes' lakes — the other member of the trio, Sir Knight Frantz, having been meanwhile lost to view among the Ladies of the company, to whom he was wont at all times to be most courteous, even though we are unwilling to admit that wewere wanting in this regard. We two, therefore, took the foot and pack-horse bridle path for a two-miles farther climb to a point of vertical altitude of 905 feet, many parts of which was at a grade of 1 in 4, and at times even higher, although the average was not so great. The writer having an excess of fifty pounds avoirdupois and an excess in years of eight, he was at times somewhat in the rear of his avant courier, but the time of arrival of the pair at ^lirror did not vary more than a minute — a younger Knight having joined us at our start, whom we recall as Sir Knight Brown. Having seated ourselves upon the trunk of a prostrate tree, we look iu the small expanse of water as it nestled at the base of a precipitous cliff some 500 feet high — a spur of the Beehive, whose cone shape imparted the name to the mountain. We noticed that the eastern border of the lake was also a perpen- dicular wall of moderate height that reminded us in its regular horizontal layers of some of our home limestone quarries that have been awhile exposed to the atmosphere and showing vege- tation springing from some of its horizontal fissures. The border upon our left, or western shore, was Imt little more than an embankment or ridge of reddish clay, inclined rearwardly by a gentle rise from the foreground to the precipitous back- ground. Our point of observation inclined inwardly at a gentle grade to the water, and, thus enclosed, we suppose the entire lake area did not exceed an acre, and, therefore, in this respect wa& disappointing. It seemed to have no outlet at its present level, though it was evident that when the depression was fnll to the point of our view, the excess had here its outflow over the incline of our ascent, and, hence, in this case became a feeder of Lake Louise. W^hile thus ruminating other Knights joined us, and by their puffing, perspiring and mopping of brow it was concluded that they had found the ascent as laborious as we, but still conscious 80 The Pilgrimage of that their reserve strength was sufficient to sustain them in the further climb of a vertical ascent of 270 feet to Lake Agnes. The writer consulted with his younger as to whether we should not attempt also to follow suit. He was not Minds to do so upon the plea that we had not time yet left us to ad- vance, and then return to the Special upon bulletin orders. Per- haps he was right ; but feeling sufficiently recuperated to take the further climb, we were inclined to debate the question. We, however, reluctantly yielded to take the back-track, and, there- fore, are not in a position to speak by experience of the last of the trio of lakes. We were, however, informed by some of those that visited Lake Agnes that it was somewhat larger than Mirror Lake, though there was a difference of opinion. Its overflow of water is also said to be precipitated into the Mirror, but as we saw no such downfall, we concluded that it, too, was at low ebb. The return of my companion and self to the Chalet was easy and rapid. We found that quite a number of the Knights and their Ladies had returned to the railway station ; and no reports had been registered of any lost, strayed or stolen ; and, hence, it was concluded that the escalade of the heights, of the Chalet at least, had been successful, and that if any pillage had been made no doubt the spoils would be distributed upon the final gather- ing of the clans at the tryst. Before taking our departure we felt desirous of taking a final stroll along the lake front, and the break-water below erected to prevent an excessive overflow at the point of exit of the sur- plus waters, and, therefore, we did so at our leisure, under marked elation of spirits, commingled with regrets that we must depart from scenes so replete with the sublime and beautiful. Re- turning to the Chalet, we found that the chariots and ambulances had departed, and therewith the lame, the halt and the blind, if such had been garnered by the said Ladies of the Eed Cross dur- ing their errand of mercy among the disabled. We then com- menced our final descent to the Special, and found, upon our arrival, that the majority of the disabled had already recuper- ated at least so far as to be able to present themselves a little The San Francisco Club. 81 later at the lunch table. Among these we noted Sir Knights Finney, Magee, Weidman, Rudy, Mcllhenny, Wagner and Parker et al. Lunch, however, not yet having been called, nor the bugle sounded to call in the still belated stragglers, we improved the leisure thus afforded by perambulating the railway platform by way of exercise "to keep our foot in" for future tramps. At length "all aboard" is called and heeded, the Special pulls out and the first Chapter of another red-letter day is noted upon the Calendar. ^J/ W M/ o o o 82 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XIV. ADIEU TO THE BOW. About two miles from Laggan, the railway leaves the course of the How River, to which we now bid farewell for the last time, as we confirm its right of being well-named, having noted its sinuosities at the lower levels; and having no doubt that its reputation thus embalmed in its name is no doubt its character- istic in the intervening space between this and its sources — one of which is Lake Hector (the larger), and the other Bow Lake — the latter the more distant, some twenty miles from this point of departure, and both lying toward the north, east of the Waputtenk range, and in a region comparatively unexplored. The direction now taken by the railway is almost due west, along the course of Bath Creek, which the railway crosses about a mile before Stevens Station is reached, and, hence, its waters are preserved to the water-shed east of the Great Divide. Tbat we may form some idea of the difficulties with which the railway engineer had to contend in traversing this region, it is seen that the railway, after leaving Banff, took a course in a line like a sickle, the handle of which commences at a point a little westward of Banff — the point of the curve ending at Lean- cboil, thereby traversing a distance of sixty-five miles that, by a bee-line from Banff, would be but forty miles. As we approach the said crossing of Bath Creek, Bosworth Mountain is seen upon our right, with the continuous ranges of the before-mentioned Waputtenk TJange, and its conspicuous peaks of Mt. Daly, 10,255 feet, and Mt. Niles, 9,310, open up a region that no doubt would duplicate anything that has yet come under our observation. But we may not longer specu- late on the possible, but looking again to our left another most lofty pile stands just before us, viz, Mt. Hector, so named after Sir .lames Hector, that headed the Palliser expedition of 1858 the first to explore the pass in the mountains over which we The San Francisco Club. 83 are now passing. This mountain, though not so large in mass as I'emple, yet gives equal evidences of its solidity and com- pactness of base, that at first appears as almost perpendicular; and then, liigher up at a point half-way to the top, recedes and forms a bench like a floor, and above the same the peak resembles in its outer vertical half a longitudinal section of a sugar loaf — the rear portion of which is supported by a buttress of almost equal height with the main peak. The whole mass shows also the almost horizontal parallelism of the strata almost to the summit. Standing, too. like o sentinel at the entrance of the great gorge into which we are soon about to enter and descend, we may well interpret its protest that if we would share with him the sunlight of the upper air we must avoid the mining depths upon its lower flanks. We heeded not, but, passing on past the Stevens' Station with our eyes still fixed upon the lofty pile, we note the slacking of the speed of the Special that announces the approach to the point of the Grreat Divide. The train comes to a standstill ; and now an opportunity is given for the Sir Knights and their Ladies to dismount and stand upon the point that separates the eastern and the western water- shed. A rustic arch spans the separating rivulets at an alti- tude of 5,296 feet above the sea, bearing upon its curved en- tablature the legend THE GREAT DIVIDE, the letters being with their supports of the native wood. The inmates of the Special all descend, and, passing through the arch, advance to the delta separating the waters of the common stream into its two branches — the bed being of soft, slaty shale made the delta possible as a projecting bar, like the point of an arrow-head, that seemed to say to the approaching waters — "Now take your choice to right or left and make your contribu- tion to swell the mass either of the Atlantic, via Hudson Bay, or that of the broad Pacific, whose waves dash against the shores of half the globe." We gaze upon the central surface of the little stream above the point of separation and repeat, "Whither will you go." While thus soliloquizing, we recall 84 The Pilgrimage of one of the most eloquent appeals that we ever heard from the sacred desk, addressed to the youth when just at the separating point of life — the like question heing asked in regard to ''what stream, whether of virtue or vice, will receive the floating craft of their ambitions, and to what harbor will they trim their sails." This and other like trains of thought were suggested to the mind as we absorbed the almost weird influence that seemed to invest the locality, while selecting, at the same time, a slate-like disk from the channel as a souvenir paper weight of tlie occasion here enjoyed. The whistle of the engine nevertheless interrupts the revery and all resume their places upon the train. From this point now commences the down grade, and, hence, by a rapid descent for three miles of a vertical altitude of 106 feet we reach the station of Hector, and make there a stop of about fifteen minutes. This stop is made to water, to make a last examination of the engine, wheels and running gear ere the onward rush is made down the canon of the KICKING HORSE. Meanwhile an opportunity is given to look around once more before leaving these upper regions, that we may see what we may bear away with us. Upon our right, in the vale below the Wapta Lake displays its phu'id bosom and its blue-green waters unruffled, except here and there by the wild duck in single pairs or small groups; lying at a level of some 300 feet below the level of our road-bed, and distant about one- fourth of a mile. Upon our left, tumbling over the broken rocks of Hector's outcroppings, appear the crystal waters of Cataract Creek, that it was understood was the outflow of the slopes of Mt. Lefroy, a peak of 11,290 feet hidden from Lake Louise by the lofty peak of Victoria — the latter also contributing from its side adjat^ent thereto of its waters to the said creek. So inviting did the water appear that many of the Knights descended from the train, carrying their chalices to bear a return to their Ladies (one of whom was the writer), and to drink of its largess as it flows away to the bosom of Lake Wapta — thus illustrating how great a quantity of water was already stored Tlic Son. Fiuntciscd ('lii.h. 85 oil lliis ,si(l(! of the hividc lo supply (Ik; lower MircaiiiK en route to the Pacific. Looking beyond tlic VVupta Lake, Ml. SlifM-hrook, with its terrac:c(l heightn of H,510 feet, has displaced Ml. Jios- worlh, and, in turn, must soon give way lo Ml. Ogden, whose base is laved by the Kicking Horse Jtiver, and upon its western side by the Yoho, that here courses down tlu; Yoho Valley 1o mingle its waters with the Kicking TTorse. Hut now llie warn- ing whislle imnouuces our i-ciidiness to slarl upon I lie o o o The San Francisco Club. 129 CHAPTER XX. ITS HISTORY. The city was laid out and plotted in 1853, and originally in- corporated in 1865 by the territorial government, and reincor- porated in 1869. For the first thirty years its growth was slow —its population in 1870 being but 1,107, and in 1880 3,533. Its population in June last was 147,757. If the city of Ballard and other suburban towns adjoining be added, the aggregate population would not be less than 170,000. The assessed valuation of the property of the city is some $66,888,000, the city owning its own water system. The water is brought from Cedar Eiver, in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, by gravitation, and is soft and pure. The distance from the city is forty miles — twenty-eight miles of which is piped, and is capable of supplying 25,000,000 gallons daily, of Avhieh 1-4,000,000 only is consumed daily. Of this consumption, a revenue is received that netted the city, last year, some $383,000. The city is lighted principally by electricity. The power for this and for the street railway is supplied by Snoqualime Falls, twenty-five miles distant, and the falls of Puyallup Eiver. The former falls are 268 feet high and are capable of generating 30,000 horse power, and the latter about an equal amount. In addition, two gas plants supply the light in a great measure for private consumption. The street railway system is one of the best, and covers the city with a network of 120 miles, that renders all points ac- cessible, and continuous are covered by one fare. The sewer system is excellent, the principal streets are paved and perma- nent sidewalks have been laid. The public and private parks are numerous in different parts of the city, upon the lakes, upon higher altitudes and overlooking the Sound. A system of boule- vards is already projected to connect all these into one system, 9 130 The Pilgnmage of and when the same is completed no city will excel Seattle in this respect. The educational facilities are of a high order, and among these the University of Washington, in this city, provides for a liberal education, free to the youth of the State. As a valuable adjunct to the public school system, the city has a free public library of 60,000 volumes for the accommodation of which, in a new building, the Hon. Andrew Carnegie has donated $230,000. There are four daily newspapers and some sixty weekly and monthly periodicals published in the city. The 120 churches and church societies provide amply for the religious instruction of the people. The leading business men's associations are the Seattle Cham- ber of Commerce, the Merchants' and the Manufacturers' Asso- ciations. The climatic and rainfall conditions cannot l)e excelled in average equability. Hence, with all these as lixed institutions, the bearing there- upon of the commerce by the sea, the manufacturing and lumber interests, to say nothing of the minor industries mounting into the millions, constitute the substantial background for a record ihat even now in its infancy almost staggers belief. Of the dee])-sea shipping there arrived, of the combined steam and sail vessels, the aggregate of 1,123,964 net tons, and de- parted of the same the aggregate of 1,141,039 net tons. The value of foreign imports, $20,343,552; exports, $12,894,905. The value of coastwise receipts, $23,244,987 : shipments, $32,171,785. Of the manufacturing interests of the city there are, number of establishments, 1,400 ; capital invested, $16,000,000 ; value of products. $55,000,000; wages paid, $13,000,000; wage earn- ers 16,000; shipments of lumber by cargo and railway, feet, 1,410,572,846; shipments of shingles, by cargo and railway, number, 5,722,240,000; cargo of luml)er and singles, 78,465. The output of the Puget Sound canneries from five to eight millions dollars, according to the run of the salmon. Companies output of this industry, from all points, The San Francisco Club. 131 $20,000,000. Coal and coke output, shipped at $3 per ton, $9,811,011. Bank deposits, $31,762,324; clearances, $206,913,571. All the above are the returns of 1893 — all of which show a handsome advance upon the previous j^ear. Therefore, with all these evidences before us of what may be considered to be fixed facts, and the bearing thereupon of the commerce by the sea, the manufacturing and the lumber interests mounting into many millions, we have inferentially a substantial background for a future record that even now in its infancy almost staggers belief. Having thus shown in brief some of these facts, supplied to us by our friend, it becomes a matter of impossibility to give other details of architectural features, though, in passing, we may speak of the imposing business buildings that stretch unin- terruptedly for a half mile along Second avenue, among which the Alaska Building, fifteen stories high, is the most conspicuous. Also, the Administration Building and Science Hall, of the Uni- versity of Washington, and tlie Seattle Public Library (the latter of the Corinthian columnar and pilaster style of architecture), with the other buildings of the business associations and banks already referred to, that in style and solidity of construction will successfully rival many of much older cities of the East. The many beautiful private residences passed by us, as we viewed the height in our trolley trip, whose cost varied, it was said, from $3,000 to $50,000, surrounded by most charming grounds, and so located as to command most magnificent views of the harbor, the Sound, the Olympic and Cascade ranges of mountains, ever snow-covered, with the unsurpassed peaks of Mt. Eainier and Baker in their isolation as incorruptible sentinels of the ap- proaching storm clouds — all unite to make good the most ex- travagant claims to which the people of Seattle may aspire. In conclusion, therefore, it may be necessary to refer only to a special object of interest that is found in this northwest section of our country and, to a large degree, indigenous thereto. We refer to the Totem Pole and its associations that so conspicuously occupies the centre of the Second Avenue Circle Park (if we re- 133 The Pilgrimage of member correctly), that is most interesting to consider in con- nection with the superstitions of the Indian tribes of this coast in the early days, some of which still stand in their original loca- tion among the Aborigines of Alaska. The Seattle Totem is specialized for the bird-bill, semi-human features of its carvings in very prominent relief, that in their history bear evidence of the religious trend of the savage mind in assuming that some animal form, such as a bird, deer, wolf, tortoise, or other fa- miliar form bore to the individual a supposed relationship and, therefore, was properly an emblem of supernatural protection to him, and more widely to the clan of which he was a member. Hence, it was that these crude images were objects of worship as well as of reverential regard. This form of religious super- stition was formerly quite widely spread among the Aborigines of this and other lands and was so named as totemism, and as occupying the next higher grade or stage of worship above the fetiishism as known to-day in Africa and Korea, and as ex- pressive of the very lowest degradation of the religious subject. Having now gotten a pretty good conception of Seattle from the different standpoints mentioned, and from interviews with old and new-made friends, we are reminded that the time of our departure is at hand, and that other numbers of the itinerary are about to claim our attention. Therefore, bidding a still reluctant farewell to one and all, the members of the Club stepped aboard, and the Special moved out of the Union Station at about 1 :30 o'clock P. M. AWAY FOE THE SOUTH VIA MT. EAINIEE. We are now fairly upon our southern journey, and our next objective point of Tacoma, forty-one miles away. Unfortu- nately, the dense smoke that has pervaded the air and obstructed the outlook for the past forty-eight hours still prevails, and that, too, to our great regret because of special points of interest that had been brought to our attention, both by friends and in the course of our reading that we were most desirous of seeing, viz, the Cascade to the east and the Olympia ]\rountains to the west, of which mention has been already made, that are seen The Ban Francisco Club. 133 upon this section of the railway upon a clear day and the natural atmospheric conditions. The chief point or peak of the Cascade Mountains that we specially coveted was Mt. Eainier, that we expected to grow upon us in its massiveness and grandeur as we approached Tacoma, standing as it does in the perpetual mantle of snow, 14,526 feet above the sea, bearing evidence in its rugged cliffs and ponderous crags of how mighty must have been those internal forces of the earth that could have raised such a stu- pendous mass toward the sky to such a height, with its possi- bilities of glaciered flanking and tumbling cataracts — an assem- blage of attractions that have attracted the attention of the en- thusiastic tourist of all lands, and is yet in its infancy as the centre of the most lofty sublimity among its peers of the snow- capped fraternity. Standing higher than jMt. Shasta, of the same Cascade range, by 84 feet, higher than Pike's Peak, of the Eampart range, of Colorado by 379 feet, and of Long's Peak, of the Front range by 255 feet, or of Mt. Massive, near Leadville, of Saquache range, by 102 feet, or of Mt. Elbert, near Leadville, of Saquache range, by 90 feet, and thus proving itself to be among the highest peaks in the United States, so far as is known to the writer, being excelled only by Mt. Whitney, of California, by 375 feet. We, of course, must also except Alaska, the land of mountain giants, Mt. Fairweather being 14,708 feet, Mt. St. Elias (estimated) 17,900 feet, and Mt. AVrangle 20,000 feet. In comparison with the celebrated peaks of the Alps, Monte Kosa and Mont Blanc are respectively 15,008 and 15,811 feet. At all events, we are ready to admit the Mt. Eainier is in very respectable company. And, too, while speaking in this connection, it may be per- mitted to say further that the Federal Government, as in the cases of the Yellowstone Park and the Yosemite, has pre-empted the region around Mt. Eainier as a Park Eeservation ; and that access thereto may be more expeditious and easy, a broad and easy graded route is now being surveyed and projected thereto under the supervision of a nephew of the writer, who writes in the most glowing terms of the magnificent scenery, numerous glaciers and waterfalls that he is now constantly gazing upon, 134 The Pilgrimage of and which lie hopes will be open to the public for the coming season. We would like to quote some of his language, but space and time forbid, and. therefore, we must refrain. TACOMA. Tacoma, happily called ''The City of Destiny," is announced, and the Special comes to a halt in the commodious Union Sta- tion. Immediately upon alighting the Sir Knights and Ladies are met by the local Sir Knights, headed by Em. Sir E. L. McCor- mick. formerly of Minnesota, of which he is a Past G-rand Com- mander, and now in a business relation, the president of Lumber- man's National Bank of Tacoma, in which he has resided for the past fifteen years, meanwhile also showing an active interest in the welfare of the Fraternity. He and his knightly colleagues were very cordial in their greetings, and having learned the length of time that we proposed to spend in the city, he in- formed us that the resident Sir Knights would personally con- duct us through the city as soon as we could arrange to accom- pany them, and at a later hour take us thence to the City Park, which is one of their most charming centres of attraction. Being joined later, also, by Sir Knight Percival C. Kauffman, vice-president of the Fidelity Trust Company, a former pupil of the writer and resident of the same borough in the days of his youth, we were all soon made to feel at home. Having called upon the latter at his iDunk, while the clans were gathering, and seen how elegantly his quarters were planned and furnished for the transaction of business, we were happy to compliment our friend for his good fortune in being so well located. The hour of our reception by the committee who were to conduct us through the city and thence to Point Defiance Park having ar- rived, we were coramodiously supplied with trolley accommoda- tions, and after noting the many beautiful homes upon the route, the names of the proprietors of which being given, we arrived, after a twenty-minutes' ride at the Park. Upon the thresh- hold of the same we found very extensive horticultural grounds and green-houses, and being^ conducted leisurely through the The San Francisco Club. 135 same, it became the universal opinion of all that it was the best display of the kind that it had been our pleasure to see since our departure from home. The gardens are located upon the side of a gentle declivity of southern exposure, improved by broad terraces, and divided into sections by converging walks that radiate from the grand entrance — the green-houses being lo- cated upon the northern elevation, and so conveniently planned as to supply ample storage therein during the short inclement seasons that prevail in this section. Leaving the botanists of our number to specialize their prefer- ences and carry away with them such souvenirs as were bestowed upon them, we were conducted into the wooded portion of the Park, and Avere soon in direct contact with the immense fir trees indigenous to the region, many of which showed a girth of from forty to fifty feet, their tops piercing the very skies at an alti- tude of from 200 to 250 feet. Standing by their gigantic trunks, we could only realize our pigmy statures and their colos- sal forms — not of one lone monarch of the forest but of scores of their equals in immensity. The Park, occupying the slopes of the native hills, was diversified by ravines, ponds, rustics, bridges and sylvan retreats, beautified in part by the landscape woodman, but retaining much of its native wildness. The main ravine, or gulch, is crossed by a wide and smoothly graveled thoroughfare over its most precipitous and giddy depths — the bottom of which is accessible from its mouth by a circuitous serpentine path of easy grades from the shore of the bay front. To those, however, too eager to resort to this winding way, to explore the ravine and pass under the bridge that claims to be a natural one, the steep declivity must be descended ; and a faint trail thereupon discovered, that required a sure foot and a clear head, invited the venturesome to descend. The writer and a couple of his companion stalwart Knights accepted the chal- lenge and threaded their way successfully to the entrance of the tunnel below. Passing through the same, we encountered, upon our exit the fallen trunk of one of the aforesaid monarchs, and found a ready footpath along the surface of its corrugated bark side. We asked an attendant how long 136 The Pilgrimage of it had lain there, supposing from its tolerable state of pres- ervation that it had but recently fallen. He replied that he supposed that Adam had rested neath its shade or sat upon its trunk, and raised Cain meanwhile with the rest of his family as he willed. We subsided upon being so forcibly impressed with the venerable souvenir. Thence picking our footsteps to the mouth of the ravine we followed the devious pathway to the higher grounds, being Joined meanwhile by successive instal- ments of our company, to again separate in like manner, to visit other centres not yet explored, among which we must note the Lily Pond, crossed by a rustic bridge that in shape and span re- minds one of the Rialto crossing the Grand Canal of Venice, but, unlike the latter, a view point as well as a means of transit. As our friend, Mr. Kauffman, is a most enthusiastic advocate of the (to him) pre-eminent attractions of Tacoma and its environs, while at the same time of a most versatile and well- stored mind, he entertained all within his reach upon every topic suggested — being, we may say, a walking encyclopedia as to sta- tistical and observed facts. Hence, we found in him a good counterpart to our friend of Seattle, whom we plied so diligently. SEATTLE VERSUS TACOMA. It did not require much time to discover that there is quite an emulation between these two cities, with the advantage upon the side of Seattle, on account of its greater age and rapid strides toward monopoly of attention before Tacoma could suc- cessfully cast off its swaddling bands. Though standing at the head of ocean navigation on Puget Sound, it nevertheless really dates its birth from July 14, 1873, upon which day the commissioners appointed to locate the Puget Sound terminal of the Northern Pacific Railway decided upon the site now occu- pied by Tacoma. This selection sealed its destiny, as eventually a great city. The largest towns at that time in the Pacific Northwest were Portland and Victoria. Fourteen years, however, elapsed before said railway was completed from its initial to to this point. Therefore, its growth was, from this standpoint, necessarily slow. In 1880, its population was but 1,098. In The San Francisco Club. 137 1900, the Federal Census puts it at 37,714, which, in turn, at the beginning of the present year had increased to 62,643 — an in- crease, as per the city directory, in three years of 47.8 per centum. The causes of this rapid increase, as communicated to us, were, first, its industrial, and, second, its commercial development. In support of these, it claims the further su- perior advantages of cheap power, possession of the command of raw materials at a minimum cost, and direct transfer facilities that place the city in touch with the world's markets. Im- mense coal deposits are in close and direct communication, and it is said that cars loaded with coal from fifty developed mines of the State can be run by gravity alone into the capacious bunks of the city — the best coking coal being found within thirty miles of the port. And here, in passing, it may be well to note that the people of this locality lay claim to the monarch peak of the Cascades, known in Seattle as Mt. Rainier, but here as Mt. Tacoma, and that its name is both prior, and gave its to, the city. But of this peak, later. In speaking of the immense power available here for indus- trial and light purposes, we learned that Tacoma divides with Seattle in the productive power of the Snoqualime Falls, that are forty-four miles distant — the same being forty miles dis- tant from Seattle. In this connection, also, plans are now being consummated to secure additional power by utilizing other sources to the extent of 100,000 horse-power, or double that of Niagara Falls. This city claims, also, to be the leading one of the State in the lumber industry. The St. Paul and Tacoma Lumber Company, here located, is said to have the largest saw- mill in the world, it having cut, in 1892, 100,000,000 feet of fir timber and 21,000,000 feet of cedar, spruce and hemlock; and, in addition to this, has sawed and shipped 62,000,000 shingles and 13,000,000 lath, of an output value of $1,500,000. Besides this one, there are twenty-five other mills, in addition to a large number of planing mills, sash and door factories and other wood-utilizing plants. In flour milling and wheat ship- ping is easily the chief city of the Northwest Pacific. As, however, we have given some of the chief items of com- 138 The Pilgrimage of mercial and industrial interests of Seattle, it is no more than just that we should enumerate some of those of Taeoma. As, therefore, the pre-eminence of Taeoma has been stated to be chiefly in its flour and wheat shipments, it would seem proper first to specialize these. Hence, we have flour exports by water alone, 1,430,408 barrels; wheat shipments, foreign, 4,293,080 barrels; lumber shipments, 131,986,466; lumber, cut, 331,700,000 feet; shingle output, 380,000,000 pieces; value of latter two, $4,609,000; factories, 332 : capital of the same $16,852,000; fac- tory employes, 8,811; monthly pay-roll, $527,645; industrial output $29,814,397; wholesale trade, $26,834,000; salmon ship- ments, foreign, 188,240 cases, value, $870,000 ; deep-sea de- partures, 844; outward cargo tonnage, 1,100,550; grain ware- house capacity, 5,152,000 bushels; coal exports, 468,738 tons; coal bunker capacity, 22,000 tons; total ocean commerce, $35,854,066; bank clearings, $98,263,310; imports, foreign, $7,874,991 ; domestic, $5,232,855 ; exports, foreign, $13,088,102 ; domestic, $9,678,118; tea imports, $9,311,197 pounds; value, $1,656,152; oriental export trade, $7,743,993; matting imports, 8,469,145 yards, valued at $704,043. Eeturning to the city, we note, in passing some of the most prominent public buildings, many of which exhibit a high degree of massive elegance and harmony of proportions. We may men- tion but a few, as the Court House, the Carnegie Library, the City Hall, the Chamber of Commerce, the Lumbermen's Na- tional Bank, National Bank of Commerce, the Fidelity, the Equi- table and Provident Banks, with other prepossessing buildings. We note, also, a number of private residences that are attrac- tive for the architectural taste displayed thereon, that has in- volved quite an expenditure of wealth in the construction and adornment. Among these, in addition to the beautiful home of our friend and chief chaperon, we note the private residences of Hon. Benjamin Grosscup, J. Henry Hewitt, Jr., capitalist; Col. C. W. Griggs, president, St. Paul and Taeoma Lumber Company; William Jones, a wheat king; William Bowen, Esq., Marshal K. Snell and others. The San Francisco Club. 139 CHAPTER XXI. THE RECEPTION. At length reaching the railway terminal, the Sir Knights and Ladies repair to the Special, feeling it obligatory upon them to exchange their travel-worn clothing for something more at- tractive for evening dress — the Club iiaving been invited to be the guests of a reception at the Masonic Temple. Hence, we there assembled at about 8 :30, and found the main reception room brilliantly lighted and prepared for our entertainment. In due time, Past Em. Grand Commander Sir R. L. McCormick, of whom we have already spoken, delivered a very appropriate address of welcome, rich in incident and expressive of good taste. To this a response was made by Em. Sir William Donaldson, of Pilgrim Commandery, and the representative of the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania, in a few appropriate words. Our said friend, Sir Knight P. C. Kaufman, then read an ap- propriate paper that had been prepared for some previous popu- lar assembly, relating certain facts and incidents in connection with the history of Tacoma, among which we noted the reasons why the citizens thereof to the "manor born" insist that their mountain neighbor should be called Mt. Tacoma, and not ]\It. Rainier. We admit that we are not sufficiently learned in archaeological and Indian lore to accompany him and trace the name to its origin, though, to be candid, we feel assured that the name Tacoma cannot successfully be assigned an Indian signification, and upon the ground of unprejudiced sources, that in the end the name of Rainier will outlive that of Tacoma among those that have no local pride in perpetuating the latter name. At the conclusion of the formalities there was a general com- mingling of Knight and Lady, and thus a most pleasant evening was spent in social converse and of further absorption upon our part of matters relating to our beloved Order in these local con- 140 The Pilgrimage of nections. Among the gleanings of the evening we learned that the present temple is one of very recent construction, and that the corner-stone thereof was laid so lately as May 33, 1903, by the M. W. Grand Lodge of F. and M. Masons of the State of Washington — John Arthur, G. M., assisted by Bro. Theodore Eoosevelt, President of United States of America. The Knights Templar of the jurisdiction acted as escort; 300 Masons arrayed in white aprons assisted in the ceremony. The President used a silver trowel that was afterwards presented to him. The words of the President, though few, were well conceived and are re- corded as treasured souvenirs. The design of the Temple is oriental. Its front elevation faces upon St. Helens avenue and extends through the block to South D street. It is 75 feet wide, 134 feet deep on the north side and 108 feet on the south, is 60 feet high, and was erected at the cost of $52,500. Thirteen Masonic bodies of the different degrees and names meet within its portals, and, therefore, it has an ample constituency to keep it in a flourishing condition. The first story is of Teniono sandstone, and the stories above of pressed brick, with terra cotta ornamentation. The second story, where the reception was lield, is a social hall for Masonic and other purposes, and is said to be the finest reception room in the city. The room is 66 feet long, by 55 feet wide, and ex- clusive of the stage, is eighteen and a half feet high. It is fur- nished, besides the stage, with a dressing room, balcony, check- room, ticket office and toilet rooms. Adjoining, there is a ban- quet room, 35x67 feet, with kitchen and pantry room. The third floor is devoted to Blue Lodge room, the Commandery, Chapter and Scottish Eite rooms. Each of these is provided with its own ante-rooms, closets, etc. The Masonic Library is also upon this floor, and is 15 by 30 feet, with a smoking room, 14 by 31 feet. It is, therefore, seen that the Fraternity in Tacoma is not ex- celled by many of its peers in any locality, and successfully rivals that of Seattle. The hour of separation, however, approaches, parting words are spoken, bon voyages are invoked, and all return to the Special The San Francisco Club. 141 ♦ content to close the day by an interview with Somnus, whose embrace is ever acceptable. By 11:30 we were en route for Portland with the intermediate smoky territory shut out under the shades of night, and, therefore, the view thus compromised was not much regretted. PORTLAND. We reach Portland on schedule time on the morning of the 28th, and are here met by our first cloudy day since leaving St. Paul. Breakfast being despatched, many set out to see some- thing of the city, while en route to the Portland House which for the day has been made headquarters. The writer, with his companion and some other of the Knights and their Ladies, upon leaving the said house, went to church at such points as were the most convenient. The sermon we heard was a good, practical one, though not so ornate as many we have heard — the pastor being absent upon his vacation, and the substitute being a former pastor. The speaker was somewhat advanced in years, but from observation we concluded that he must have been a man of mark when in his prime. We were pleased to discover that the prefer- ences of the Knights present were like our own in the selection of the church, and, the services concluded, we passed out to- gether. Moreover, this locality being near the residential part of the cit}^ of the lowlands, the writer and his companion made a detour through this section in returning to headquarters, and were fully compensated by the appearance of the very elegant mansions occupying, in some cases, the centre of a quarter, a half, or even a whole block, and surrounded by a forest of flow- ers, rare exotic plants and ornamental shrubbery and trees, that showed the possession of great wealth upon the part of the pro- prietors, and the handiwork of the skilled horticulturist. We return to the Portland, loiter about its broad corridors, recline upon its easy chairs and kixuriate in its handsome recep- tion rooms. Being the headquarters, also, of the resident com- manderies of the city, the Knightly colors and emblazoned in- signia of the Order relieve the fixed appointments of the hos- 142 The Pilgrimage of telry and thus present an ensemble that will be one of the cynosures of memory in connection with our stay in this city. Upon any other day than the one now set apart for a brief sojourn here, the opportunities for sight-seeing would have been improved to the full — the city having a site most admirable for the development of a broad exhibit of improvements and much beauty of detail. The land gradually rises from the river to the west and southwest, and then suddenly ascends with a marked elevation of elongated hills, varied by low intercepting depres- sions that make the same particularly inviting for the erection thereon of elegant and picturesque homes. These elevations are ascended and in part engirt by winding trolley and carriage- ways that afford frequent view-points of the lower city, that is mostly occupied by business houses, factories and the homes of the earlier residents and the rank and file of their dependencies. The highest point of the said elevations is known as Robinson's Hill, from which, upon a clear day, a most extensive and mag- nificent view is obtained. From this vantage point it is pos- sible, upon a clear day, to see five lofty peaks, always snow- covered, within the radius of a hundred miles — the most con- spicu(ms being IVIt. Hood, of an altitude of 11,235 feet, about fifty miles distant in an air-line. Owing, however, to the smoke ]iow ])revailing along the coast section for many miles that has been prevalent now for a fortnight or more, these interesting points cannot, at this juncture, be seen from the locality men- tioned. The ridge being considerably broadened near the high- est point, the railway makes a loop about the eastern, northern and western flanks of the hill and, therefore, affords views from a number of places. Upon returning to the point of separation at which the loop is commenced, a fine view^ of the Columbia Hiver i?-. had, as it stretches in a line toward its nearest approach to the [)()int of observation, twelve miles distant, at which place it is a large stream, and the Willamette stretches away to meet it until lost in the distance. It is recalled that the location of the city is distant twelve miles from the junction of the latter with the Columbia, and that thence to the Pacific Ocean is 103 miles addition. But though thus distant the channel of the The San Francisco Club. 143 said rivers is deep, and vessels of considerable tonnage here load and unload at the wharfs. Although older than either Seattle or Tacoma, the people of this city do not seem to have improved their advantages in the same ratio as said cities, and though heretofore considered to be the Metropolis of the Pacific North- west, yet that palm is slipping away and should even now be given to Seattle. Its combined population is but a little above 100,000. Having no friend, however, here, as in the case of the said cities, we have not learned so fully of the returns of its annual trade, or of its march in the line of city improvements. It was first settled in 1843, and incorporated into a city in 1851. Its location is so favorable for development that it seems to be inexcusable that greater enterprise has not been shown in diverting to this port a greater share of the products of the soil of the prolific region in such easy reach, and their transshipment to other centres. Hence, in this connection, it is said that the \Yillamette Valley traverses some 4,000,000 acres of land, the greater part of which is under cultivation. There are five railways that have terminals at Portland, three of which are either direct or have connections with trans-conti- nental lines, and, therefore, aft'ord an outlet for a vast region in the interior. The Columbia and the Willamette rivers have a world-wide reputation for their salmon fishing, as well as means for general transportation, and, therefore, supply an almost in- exhaustible basis for the further expansion of the canning in- dustry, that is already most profitable, and utilizes an immense investment of capital that has been attracted thitherward. The streets of the city are well lighted by electricity, supplied by works belonging to the city corporation. The water is sup- plied by an aggregate of fifty miles of water mains, with a pumping capacity of 20,000,000 gallons per day, and a daily consumption of 5,000,000 gallons. The source of the water supply is the Willamette, some five miles above the city. With all these acquired and natural advantages, it must also ere long make more rapid strides as a centre of varied industries, with the already acquired advantage of being the third richest city of the nation in proportion to its population. These facts cannot, 144 The Pilgdmage of therefor, remain in a semi-dormant state for a time indefinite, and, hence, a lively rivalry between the trio of cities of the coast will soon be on, and wax even to a white heat in the contest for commercial and trade supremacy. Upon a consultation of the itinerary, it is seen that the schedule calls for a night departure southward, and, therefore, the members of the Club gather at an early hour at the Special for a 7 P. M. dinner, and this being despatched, a few social interchanges, and the usual song service in the Observation Car duly participated in, brought the experiences of the day to a close, with all more or less prepared for an early retirement, pre- paratory, at least upon a partial scale, to the railway incidents of Canada, of mountain gorges and snow-capped heights, and the scenes incident to these superb exhibitions of nature. And now, as we glide along to "dumb forgetfulness a prey," we are reconciled to the facts of the situation, because, if in our wakeful moments we attempt to pierce the darkness from our hammock window, we discover that another sovereignty has taken possession of the outer world, and that "Night, sable goddess ! from her ebon throne, In rayless majesty, now stretches forth Her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world. Silence how dead ! and darkness how profound ! Not eye, nor listening ear, an object finds ; Creation sleeps. 'Tis as the general pulse Of life stool still, and Nature made a pause; An awful pause! prophetic of her end." The sentiment of the poet would have been complete had it not been for the conflicting noise of the flying Special, as it cleaved its way through the gloom ; and yet it is but the expression of a truism to say that it is the exception that proves the rule. As the thought, therefore, was suggested to our mind, while peering into the outer darkness, as among the treasures culled and stored in the alcoves of memory during the later days of youth, we can but reproduce them as at least a partial background, or, like The San Francisco Club. 145 the sentiment awakened by the associations of the wakeful day. Hence, the seeming departure from the more sunny reflections of the landscape vision. THE MOEN OF THE 29TH. The early morning finds us far across the State of Oregon, upon our prescribed way; and upon the despatch of breakfast, we again resume our waking habit to take note of our surround- ings. We find ourselves rolling along, at an average rate, up the valley of the Rogue Eiver, with evidences upon every hand that ere long we shall again invade the higher altitudes. The valley here is some three miles wide and bounded by high hills that have not yet reached the altitude of mountains, and .covered to a considerable extent with a heavy growth of timber that awaits the axe of the woodman and the further demands of civilization. Moreover, we are also upon the outlook for "human habitations and a name." Hence, we soon pass Jacksonville, that, with a population of from 800 to 900, and the appearance of its public buildings must be a village of some note as a country town. We learned that it was the county seat of Jackson County. ASHLAND. Medford next comes into view, some seven miles beyond the last-named station, with which it is connected by a wagon road- way at the shorter distance of four miles, thereby showing the winding course that the railway must often take to reach a point of much less air-line distance. This, with the next station of Phoenix, appears to be a flourishing and neat little town. And now, with whetted appetite, we begin to grow somewhat im- patient to see more positive evidences of popular activity in addi- tion to the mere railway flag station, as we complete our climb of 500 feet above Jacksonville, which we have left some nine- teen miles at our rear, as we glide into the beautiful town of Ashland, the centre of interest and the largest iovm of the Eogue Eiver Valley. It is situated near the base of the Siskion 10 146 The Pilgrimage of Mountains, at an altitude of about 1,900 feet above the sea level. Its history dates from 1850, and it was here that the last spike connecting the Oregon and the California end of the railway upon which we are now traveling was driven by Charles Crocker, of San Francisco, December 17, 1887, a fact that gave a fresh impetus to its energies already partially developed. The locality is noted for its pure air, equable temperature and attractive scenery, and, therefore, it was not long before the place became quite a resort for tourists, while its school and other advantages, as the seat of the State Normal School, have added justly to its natural merits. It is also the station of nearest communica- tion with the nearby White Sulphur Springs, that are also held in high repute. Its chief sol^rces of support are the successful fruit-growing and grain production — the returns from which are shipped in large quantities to other markets upon the line and other more distant points. It was at this station that quite a pleasant episode occurred that the members of the Club will recall with much pleasure. The leading citizens, having heard of our approaching Special, under the auspices of the Board of Trade, had gathered ere our arrival a large supply of peaches — the first that we had seen since our departure from the States; and, each specimen being neatly wrapped in napkin paper, that made, in the aggregate, a huge pyramid, was piled upon an im- provised table at the railway station. The same having been placed under the charge of some half-dozen young ladies of at- tractive mien, samples of the fruit were presented to each Knight and Lady, with the compliments of the donor. And so marked was this courtesy, and at the same time so suggestive of its simplicity that we were not only delighted therewith, but there was manifested a general desire to interview the fair benefactresses that so modestly represented the largess of the locality — a spirit that is supposed to be the true exponent of the gallant Knight, and, hence, most readily to be recognized in those dominated by a kindred spirit. Hence, it was, we think, excusable upon the part of the recipients of such gentle favors to indulge, in turn, in pleasant badinage, or to secure the privilege at least of a kodak-snap as a souvenir. The writer The San Francisco Clnh. 147 admits that he was one that interviewed at least one of the most attractive of the said distributors of favors, though he does deny, what was jocosely mooted around, that he was desirous, with malice aforethought, of making an impression upon the sup- posed susceptible one. Hence, while making this counter alle- gation, he does confess that he has ever had a penchant for beauty, whether embodied in the form of the blushing maiden or in the full-blown maturity of the more classic mould of the matron. "All aboard" interrupts the coteries of interviewers, and, as obedience is the first law of the loyal Knight, we heed the sum- mons, and leave behind us, we trust, pleasant and suggestive recollections. We treasure them as such, and store them among the imperishables. d/ w \!/ o o o 148 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXII. THE CASCADE EANGE. Eesuming our Pilgrimage, and climbing to the levels beyond, we find the road becoming more tortuous and the scenery wilder as we approach the mountain ramparts. Coming, now, into closer contact with the Cascade Range, its undulating summit lines grow into stronger relief against the sky. And, looking backward, the conspicuous peak of Mt. Pitts lifts its crest far toward the sky, though admitting that it soon must yield the palm to the monarch of the southern section, ■ Mt. Shasta, that, in turn, is second only to its colleague of the northern section, that dominate the entire Cascade. The other peaks that divide the attention are Mts. Scott. Trelson and Diamond, that per- form, each, their part in the role, and though they may not be iirst, they still may claim the right to be partners in the grim ■contest that is being continually waged with the denuding agents of the ages. But the obstacles still to be encountered are be- coming still more refractory, and the overhanging cliffs still more threatening, while the engineering difficulties have reached the maximum of successive fianking by successful detours and, therefore, tunneling must be resorted to. Hence, soon after commencing the ascent of the first arm of the double loop after crossing a couple of mountain torrents, whose deep way-worn channels, as seen from the spanning bridges, proclaim their age, we enter a tunnel of about a fourth of a mile long, and, emerging therefrom, pursue a tolerably straight course in the same southeasterly direction upon the rock-hewn way, with a perceptibly increasing elevation, when, in passing Steinman, we learn that we have ascended upwards of 1,100 feet since leaving Ashland. Thence bounding along about three miles farther, the railway crosses Carter Creek and the North Fork at their junction, and thus find room sufficient for a sweep prior to a doubling back The San Francisco Club. 149 upon itself for a further climb, but now taking a course in the opposite direction, viz, northwest up the precipitous slope of the mountain above opposing spurs, over giddy tressels, and thence through another tunnel, of another spur too formidable to double, nearly a half-mile in length. Emerging from this, another bold detour to the right, and another to the left brings the Special face to face with a giant obstruction, and now naught is left us but another plunge into a tunnel, and that, too, at such a situation that the difficulties demand another loop — the curve of which occurs in the centre of the tunnel — the combined arcs of which constitute a semi-circle. Our course, however, is still upward, but now, again, in an opposite direction, or southeast in line with the direction taken before the first loop was made — the combined course to reach the summit of the Siskiyon Mountain being that of an elongated Z. And still our course continues up the last arm of the Z, and at the end of each curve new heights and separating canons are re- vealed, with the forest growth now left behind, and a less ob- structed outlook and an intensified feeling to let nothing be lost that might mar the complete picture. The changes are, however, so rapid that it would require a revolving kodak with radial sensitive plates to catch the changes, and thus piece the whole into one continuous panorama. The station of Siskiyon is, however, at length reached and the summit of 4,135 feet above the sea is jotted down — the rise from Ashland, seventeen miles away, being upon an average of 243 feet per mile. It is said that the name of the mountain and station has its origin in the Indian lore of the locality, as meaning the "site or place of the council." That is, it is said that in the period of the original vigor of the Shasta, Rogue Eiver and Klamath tribes of Indians, that these were wont to assemble upon a plateau of the nearby mountain heights and confer in friendly contests of games, dancing, etc., or in deliberate council, under the aroma of the pipe of peace, and thus, for a season at least, lay aside the bow and the tomahawk. 150 The Pilgrimage of MT. SHASTA. Looking around, we take our bearings. To the southeast, Mt. Shasta rears its lofty head with other only less prominent peaks in contrast with the monarch of the range. The variety of the lowlands in valley, lake and river unite to complete a pros- pect — the like of which, as a whole, we shall not see paralleled, at all events upon our Southern route, if indeed among the Sierra Nevadas of the eastern border. And here, again, it is suggested, would be the opportunity for the artist to emulate Nature in delineating the immense outlines and, if possible, transcribe the complete picture in miniature upon the canvas. But let us not indulge in vain regrets for the limitations of human capabilities, but rather proclaim our gratitude that such a feast of vision is allowed us, even though the retention of the picture be also fleeting, as traced upon the retina of memory. But the descent has already commenced, now north, now east, and now the supreme efforts of the engineer must again be called into requisition, after a vertical descent of a thousand feet, we are forced to plunge into a tunnel four-fifths of a mile long, which is the longest of the mountain route. Emerging from the same, our route is now northeast, our way being bordered for the most part by bare and weather stained rocks, and, hence, cliff and gorge come more palpably into view with all their nakedness and mining depths. Evidences also appear upon all sides of the volcanic origin of these rocky ramparts and canons, and, therefore, it is but to be expected that mineral and hot springs must, more or less, abound. Hence, we have Colestin Spring, upon the line of road, some three miles from Siskiyon, at a drop of 625 feet, and further on, at Ager Sta- tion, a stage connection conveys to Klamath Spring, eighteen miles distant, the frequent visitors to that place of resort, which is at an altitude of 3,700 feet, or 450 feet below Siskiyon Sum- mit, and abounds in various kinds of springs, as soda, cold iron, hot sulphur and hot iron, and the famous "mud baths," to which even the Indians were wont to resort in the times of the Abo- riffines. The San Francisco Club. 151 Upon passing Colestin, the road makes a curve westward, then north, then east, and then, again, by a broad sweep, to the southwest, until upon reaching Cotton-wood Creek, at its conflu- ence with the Xorth Fork of the same, it then takes a northwest course along the latter and passes out of the State of Oregon into California, some two miles beyond Cole's Station. Montague next is passed, ten miles beyond Ager, and is im- portant more on account of its connections than otherwise, being the junction of this road with the Yreka Railroad, that runs to the town after which the railway is named, and is the county seat of Siskiyon County, with whose mountain range we have just had such wonderful railway experiences. This station is the place of residence of those that are chiefly engaged in lumbering, mining and cattle herding, for which the contiguous valleys afford means for development. And yet, upon the whole, there is but little change in our surroundings, for, leaving this station, we again ascend into mountain fastnesses, with their naked and frowning cliffs, with but little exemption from sharp curvatures in our transit to Edgewood, twenty miles beyond, that is well named from the fact that from here commences a heavier forest growth, which, in passing, we observe to be primeval, and, hence, in reserve for the lumbermen of the future. Upton, at the end of the next fifteen-mile stretch, is the next point that is chiefly important for its connections to points more or less removed from our line, and of which the sportsman and the angler take advantage to reach the St. Cloud River section of country by the railway of the same name that starts from Upton — a region that is celebrated far and wide for its fish- abounding streams and verdant canons fed by the glaciers in chief of the ubiquitous Shasta, whose shadow we are now ap- proaching. Our climb still continues, as we round Muir's Peak, that, in its serrated and abrupt cliffs, towers some 3,000 feet above our heads in black crater-like rifts and thereby reveal the volcanic origin of the mountain pile. Had it not so many counterparts in the region, its study would interest the geologist as well as landscape enthusiast. Mt. Shasta camping grounds are passed, with its inviting nooks and shady retreats that are 153 The Pilgrimage of taken advantage of by the yearly sojourners of the locality, hard by the monarch of the region whose lofty dimensions now monopolize the view as we approach Sisson. Standing, as it does, 14,442 feet above the sea, that, at this point, is 100 miles distant in a bee-line, it offers no apology for the monopoly,, while defying adverse criticism either as to its height, bulk, capabilities of outlook or date of birth. While it is true that in the last-named respect we have not the same means of deter- mining when its mountain pile was elevated, as in the case of Mt. Stephen, of the Canadian Eockies, still we know that the evidences are legion of its volcanic origin, and that even now the slumbering fires in its lowest bowels show some disturbance, by the fact that from a rift in the surface rocks near the summit there issues forth hot steam and noxious fire-generated vapors that w^arn even the intrepid climber not to presume too much upon his audacity if he would live to again descend to the vales of terra firma below. And, here, we may say that it might be well and somewhat interesting to mention some of the details of the geological data by which the age of the crust of such mountain and other forma- tions is, at least approximately, determined, as based upon the assumption of the original molten condition of the mass, and the rate of cooling as the crust thickens and the ratio of radiation diminishes. Suffice it to say that the rate of elevation of tem- perature, as revealed by the data at the bottom of the deepest mines, justifies the conclusion that at a depth of four times greater than the height of Shasta that the heat is so intense that the most refractory rocks known would be melted thereby, and thus add their increment to the volume of the liquid sea of fire that now dashes its waves incessantly against the walls of its earthly enclosure. That these fires do, however, approach nearer the surface at some places than the average indicates, is ad- mitted, and that these cases are almost without exception near the sea, as if the fissured bottom of the latter was wont oft- times to admit its waters into such warm contacts, and to be- come thereby converted into superheated steam, that must find a vent somewhere, and that in the direction of the least re- The San Francisco Club. 153 sistance, to one of which, upon a small scale, we have above ad- verted, goes also without saying. The substantial facts do, nevertheless, remain uncontroverted, and the thickness of the crust is but a shell as compared to the mass of the enclosed. But enough of this about the crust that even hereabouts appears to be sufficiently thick and strong to bear the Special, and, there- fore, we will return from our flight to its inviting quarters, for fear that some of the "upper social crust" thereof, to which my wife aspires, may clip our plumes and command us to confine ourselves, at least, to the surface of things. Hence, we return, to note a little further the visible of Shasta's exterior. The perpetual snow line descends to a point of about 9,000 feet from the base, thus leaving some 2,500 feet of snow pack to be tra- versed by the adventurous mountain climber. As, however, the journey to the summit takes the best part of two days, we, of course, can only feast our eyes upon its possibilities, and take for granted what has been revealed by those that have stood upon its topmost peak. The view from that point is said to command a sweep of vision from the arid plains of Nevada, in the East, to the water-washed shores of the Pacific, and from the central peaks of Oregon, toward the North, to the mountain enclosed valley skirting hard upon the environs of San Fran- cisco. We repress a rising feeling of disappointment that we are not so privileged, but resolve, in lieu thereof, to utilize to the full what is, and still may be, open to our visual capabilities. Hence, from this and the successive view-points, we note the varying outlines of the upper works. Therefore, three different views show the mountain, as divided into two main elevations, separated by a moderate depression, of apparently equal girth for some considerable distance above their point of separation, and from thence one peak suddenly inclines to its summit, while the other continues onward for the distance of 2,000 feet or more, as shown by a fourth view for a better point of observa- tion — each preserving, in the main, the usual sugar-loaf curves of a broad-based cone. And, when suffused by the softened glare of the early afternoon sun, the recollections of its stately form arrayed in its snowy vestments will occupy a prominent 154 The Pilgrimage of niche among like treasures of mountain mementoes. And here, we may say in passing, that having been robbed of our view of Eainier by the smoky atmosphere, we are constrained to say that Mt. Shasta bears the pahn of the highest peak that the Pilgrimage has revealed to our eyes, and the like of which we shall not see again in close rivalry until the monsters of Colorado, of the Sagauche Range, near Leadville, enter in com- petition. In taking in, therefore, the situation, as presented from Sisson, we can readly see why this locality has been so long a favorite with the tourist public — the early date at which the proprietor settled here, after whom the place is named, and built himself a home, early identified him with the early history of Strawberry Valley, as the contiguous valley is called, and was the original circumstance that directed the attention of the public thitherward. The completion of the railroad met every remaining difficulty, inclusive of a want of rapid transit, and from that day the Sisson Tavern became a fixed fact, that has never since wanted patronage, either among those or their friends who, having once dwelt among the attraction of the monarch, have desired to refresh their memories of the same by again climbing his welcome peaks, or by resting content at his paternal base amid the glories of his sunshine and the security of his shadow. o o o The San Francisco Club. 155 CHAPTER XXIII. A EELUCTANT DEPAETUEE. Leaving Sisson, we enter upon another down-grade by a line slightly varying westward from our southern course, and at Azalea, some three miles beyond Sisson, have descended about 200 feet. Thence, by a southeasterly course we make a similar drop in about the same distance, and thence pass out from the canon, under the protection of the wall-like cliffs of Mt. Scott, to the quiet little station of Mott. This, also, is a place of con- siderable patronage on account of the wildness of its environ- ment. Standing upon the very threshhold of the Sacramento Eiver canon, that here commences to make as many crooks and reverse curves as are possible to railway engineering, and sug- gestive of those encountered upon the flanks of the Siskiyon, the Special braves the difficulties of the way, though for a mile or more the distant view is unobstructed, in looking back at Mt. Shasta, that seems to have grown no less since our departure from Sisson, while looking forward to our right, the outjutting cliffs of Castle Crags appear beyond the forest slopes cropping out in the canon just before us. And here, again, a reverse course is taken for another stretch of three miles or more, in a northwestern direction, by a further drop of 370 feet to reach the head waters of the Sacramento Eiver, that its valley, in turn, may be utilized as the only available route to reach the lowlands toward which our course lies. And, though we per- ceive that the most southern point reached since leaving Mott was not more than a half-mile in an air-line to Shasta Springs, yet to reach this latter station a descent of about 600 feet has been made in a distance of about three miles — of the two sec- tions of the track, the one to the northwestern loop, and the other and reverse to the said springs, being the one above the other, and at no time being farther apart than forty or fifty feet, had the courses been upon the same horizontal plane, at least 156 The Pilgrimage of so far as the eye could determine. Meanwhile, the channel of the river is at a much lower depth, leaping along upon a like grade, and at last closely infringed upon as the Special makes its last detour therefrom to the east to round the station of SHASTA SPEINGS, where the Special comes to a stop for a rest of some forty- five minutes. The group of houses upon each side of the station burst suddenly upon the approaching train like an apparition in their oriental finish, flanked by fountains shoot- ing their columns in foaming, snowy jets high into the air, while their receiving basins beside the footway overflow with their surcharged waters, impregnated with mineral flavors of alleged medicinal qualities. But, like the craze for the appetizing con- diment of olives, upon which the epicure dilates so eloquently, so, it appeared to us, that a like educational qualification is required to induce the bibulous subject to affirm that these waters are nectar, and the gases therewith generated like unto the attar of roses. At least, such was our opinion, and hence, we pre- ferred to remain a novice rather than become a connoisseur by indulgence in sundry libations from the flowing bowl. Sir Knight Eudy disagreed with us, and so he Avent in. What was the result? deponent saith not. Just at the left of the main spring pagoda, we see an elevated building, with rear platform extension, and, approaching to examine it more closely, it is readily discovered to be the terminal building of a steep incline railway, with car duly rigged thereon, for the purpose of passenger transportation to some distant elevated point, we know not where. We noted also, not far removed, a long, zigzag footpath, meandering also ap- parently in the same direction, though its upper terminus was also lost to the sight. It was, however, self-evident that these roadways, so elaborately constructed for the benefit of supposed patrons must lead somewhere, unlike the original conception of the jNTorthern Pacific Eailway, which was facetiously de- nounced by its opposers, when originally projected, as com- mencing nowhere and ending at a like terminus. The venture, The San Francisco Club. 157 however, was made by a half score of the Sir Knights and their Ladies — the writer included in the number — and we entered the car, while the great majority of the Club by common consent were seen trooi^ing up the steep, but smoothly graded, foot-path. As the crowd ascended, an emulation suddenly seized the greater number to be the first to scale the fancied heights in the upper regions, but, spurt as they would, "the girl in blue" persisted in leading the van, and when the car touched the upper landing she, too, was there, ready to inquire why we de- layed so long upon the way, even though propelled by other than muscular power. We could make no defence, other than cast the blame upon our motor, which, by the sequel, proved to be inferior to hers. She gave us the benefit of the doubt, as the car disgorged, and the remaining pedestrians, blowing like por- poises, reached the brow of the plaza, while all halted to take our bearings. And, if surprised at the revelations of the lower level, the beauty of the scene before us was a climax, both of surprise and of other pleasurable emotions. Here, spread in elliptical curvature, was a plaza as level as a pond covered with luxuriant grass closely shaven, except as interrupted by gravel walks radiating from the plaza centre, and bordered by perfect forms of mountain oak, ash and evergreens of blending hues — a broad promenade wallv, circumscribing the whole, the outer periphery of the latter being also circumscribed by a line of cottages, to which ingress is made from the aforesaid promenade. Noting the cottages especially, it is seen that their gables front toward the plaza, and that each are furnished with neat, artistic ve- randas, covered with flowers and trailing vines — an association that conferred upon the pretty little domicils both an air of comfort and recognized taste. A little chapel also exposed its gothic front at one end of the plaza, with its spire pointing heavenward and enclosing a bell, whose tones no doubt are welcome at the hour of prayer to the cottagers who may here temporarily sojourn, while at the same time commending the management of the place in making such provision for their patrons. ]\Ieanwhile, dividing into coteries, we saunter to and fro, 'neath the arching trees, across the velvet lawn and to the 158 The Pilgrimage of brow of the plaza, while one or more, by permission, invade the rear porticoes of some of the cottages that overlook the steep declivities that, upon all sides, extend to depths out of sight in the dense shade of the overhanging stately firs, far below. We sought to parallel the associations of this spot with those of some other locality that we had visited, either in the home or foreign lands, but we could recall none that could approach this gem, located 600 feet above the level of the railway, which, in turn, is 2,558 feet above the level of the sea. We did not learn whether this plaza was the site of a natural plateau, either in whole or in part, or whether an entire work of art, as wrought upon the top of a mountain spur or peak. In either case, the corporation owning the springs have not spared expense in their confidence that a patronizing public would not long hesitate to avail themselves of the specialties in store for them here, as lovers of the beautiful as well habitues of health resorts. THE DKEAM VANISHES. But tlie loud shrieks of the Special and the reverberating echoes of the height announce that our lease of wandering is about expired, and, therefore, pell-mell we go down the zigzag, though we perceive with not so high a degree of emulation as was manifest in the ascent. It was not, however, that there seemed to be a depletion of energy upon the part of any, but rather the result of a demand upon a different set of locomotor muscles that are a little more difficult to control when the gait is accelerated by gravity. At least, we discovered that some of the Pilgrims found it so, though, all arrived safely at the base. Upon roll call, it is found that none have straggled, and, there- fore, we are again upon the wing, and upon leaving the station we make a detour, the reverse to that of the approach to the station and thence cross, by bridge, the Sacramento in our further descent along its banks to pass one-fourth of a mile below Shasta Eetreat, which we would have liked to have in- spected for fifteen minutes at least, not only on account of the five different mineral springs that here dispense their medicinal The San Francisco Club. 159 qualities, but also for the reason that, owing to the ample site room was afforded for the erection, upon the grounds, of re- ligious and other buildings of different moral associations, upon the scale of those of Pacific Grove Eetreat, near Monterey, which we hope to see upon our route further South. The Chautauqua Assembly, for instance, here divides its patronage wnth the said Pacific Eetreat, and thus attracts many of the religious element of the State interested in the educational and moral subjects at these assemblies, while at the same time in their leisure hours to wander among their picturesque surroundings in search of the rare specimens that the botanist and mineralogist have learned so much to prize, meanwhile cultivating their social instincts to their heart's content in the attractive little cottages that are erected around a plaza, somewhat after the style of the Springs that we have just left behind us. We have hardly passed beyond the limits of the Eetreat, at a distance of one and a half miles, when we come within the pre- cincts of the Upper Soda Springs, so-called, though our descent from the Eetreat has been 250 feet, which it is perceived in- dicates a steep grade, and foreshadows what gravity would do under loose brakes. As we pass, therefore, it can only be re- called that this station is also much patronized by the tourist and the invalid, its scenery and medicinal qualities of its waters having been advertised far and wide, both for the benefit of the public and the proprietors thereof. As, however, the majority of the Club are not experts in therapeutics, an enumeration of the chemical elements here held in natural solution is not re- quired, and, therefore, we pass on and into Dunsmire, a pretty little town, upon a plateau of the mountain, and a place also much frequented by pleasure-seeking tourists and sportsmen, as a centre from which they can radiate to and return from such localities as they may wish to explore. We here halt but for a short time, and are then away again upon our downward way, but still hugging the mountain side with the tenacity of a barnacle, the river just beyond being now more or less obscured by the dense forest growth, though now increasing in volume from the many confluents of the melting snows from the defiles 160 The Pilgrimage of of Shasta. We next pass Castle Crag Station, four miles below, that is also one of the rivaling resorts of this wonderful region, though lying some 350 feet lower than Shasta Springs, or 2,190 feet above the sea. The appearance of the Crag, so-called, is that apparently of huge lave-points, like the socoria of a furnace culm bank, though infinitely larger and more ragged in its contour, in con- sequence of having been subjected to the denuding action of the elements for ages, and leaving only the most refractory portions to pierce the sky like needles, and thus reveal the careless con- fusion with which the Titan smelters of the early days cast the worthless residuum of their volcanic fires upon the dumping grounds of terra firma. Another stretch of two miles brings the Special to another like place of resort, viz, Bailey's, that also boasts its wild surround- ings and climatic inducements, its healthful waters of spring and bathing-pool, with all the other contributions of the forest and nearby rapidly flowing river — attractions all that appear to be common to the region, and monopolized by no one locality to the exclusion of the rest. Sweet Brier and Castella follow suit in close proximity, two miles further on, and separated each from the other by but three-fourths of a mile, and also constituting worthy rivals with Bailey's, in the celebrity of the locality. From Castella an even better view of the Crags, as they stand over-topping the inter- vening high ground to the rear of the respective stations, than at Castle Crag, two miles to our rear. But now the shades of evening gather about us, and the sable curtains begin to dim the outer world from our still inquisitive eyes, and permit only the most prominent outlines thereof to ar- rest our attention, as we approach Sims, after our tumultuous ride of fifteen miles from Shasta Springs, with an aggregate descent therefrom of 1,050 feet, the major portion of which was awe-inspiring in its very audacity. While still in this section, we are said to have the most rugged portion of the canon, as to its fiercest opposition to the passage of the river, whose roar could even be heard as we pass along, were it not for that of the The San Francisco Club. 161 train, as wafted above upon the night air in our descent be- yond into the milder lowlands, though content that the day's program has ended at this point of rapid climax, and that the surcease therefrom, through the medium of rest in sleep, will confer a mental frame consonant with fragrance of the lowlands of flowers, and the balmy breezes, fresh from the watery main. Dinner being duly despatched, the clans gather in their respec- tive sections, and the rivals of the late muscular contest upon the slopes of Shasta Springs dispute the prowess of their favor- ites in scaling the summit, and the "ifs" and the "buts" fly thick and fast in extenuation of "this and that;" but in the end the right of "the girl in blue" to the palm could not be success- fully questioned, as she was not only here, but elsewhere, ever upon the qui vive to share in the best of Nature's banquets, or in the sweet amenities of the social coterie — her never-failing vivacity readily disarming all adverse criticism by the very force of her inexhaustible elau. And thus, amid the sallies of wit and repartee, the early hours of night flew by, until, content to call a halt, one by one they steal away to curtained seclusion, to woo the atmosphere "of pleasant thoughts until sleep did come," and then "in pleasant dreams till dawn," to handicap the intervening hours, as was anticipated by the writer in invocation of his benedictions upon one of the fair voyageurs. o o o 11 163 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXIV. OAKLAND. The morning hour of the 30th found us peering through our section windows, as we pulled into the town of Oakland, and thence two miles distant to the pier at which we are scheduled to make a stop of twenty minutes. Being, however, an hour or more ahead of time, we anticipate that that period will be ac- credited to us in a corresponding earlier departure further south- ward. Instead of that boon, we are confined for an unspeakable time to the barren floors of the pier and the blank walls of car- encumbered sidings, expecting momentarily to hear that the Special has received orders to move onward. But still the delay was long drawn out, though meanwhile, in patience, we tried to possess our souls. Others, however, were not so philosophical, and Sir Eudy became so exasperated that he declared that he would — take a smoke. As the writer, however, does not indulge in the seductive weed, and, therefore, knows not of its hashish effects in blunting the asperities of the moment, he had to allow the said Sir Knight the monopoly of the narcotic, and in lieu thereof, as best he could, ruminate upon the mutability of the "best laid plans of mice and men." The longest lane, however, has a turn, and at length "all aboard" is wafted through our "pent-up Utica," and we are again in motion, soon to enter the inviting precincts of Santa Clara Valley, that has the enviable distinction of being one, if not the choicest, of the gardens and fruit-bearing sections of the State. We do not, however, reach the borders of the cream of the valley until we reach San Bruno, about fourteen miles from San Francisco, and from thence to San Jose, for a distance of thirty-six miles, a succession of gardens, orchards, vineyards, farms and grain fields, in tropical luxuriance, greet the eye, and, in a measure, confirm the reputation of the State as an all- around land of fruits and flowers, of almost perennial luxuri- The San Francisco Club. 163 ance. And besides, we note, ever and anon, the palaces of the bonanza and railway kings, that, upon the fruitage of their labors, have sought to make the earth smile with harvests, as well as to have the marts of trade yield their contributions in bonds and bullion. To many of us, the vintage crop has been one of but small returns in our respective localities of the East, and, hence, in accordance with our anticipations, we were not prepared to see M-hat seemed to be but dwarfish plants, with comparatively few branches, under apparently excessive pruning. We shall later, no doubt, learn why a more luxuriant leafage is not permitted, since we have always been led to believe that the leaves are the lungs of the plant. THE EUCALYPTUS. And then, again, the view is enlivened by the parks, of greater or less area, of native trees, clothed in their mass of leafage, many of which are indigenous only to the California section of the Pacific coast, such as the live oak, known specifically as the Coast, Hohn, or simple Evergreen live oak, and other ever- greens to which reference may be made later. But, here, it may be well to refer specially to the Eucalyptus that here abounds, and which many members of the Club now see for the first time, and with which we will, no doubt, become familiar before leaving this coast. This genus of evergreen trees was originally a native of Australia, and the honor of its transplantation to the soil of California belongs to Wm. M. Taylor, an original '49er and street preacher of San Francisco, but subsequently a missionary to Australia, where he spent some time, and later was made Bishop to Africa, and still later made this State his final home, dying at Palo Alto about three years since; and, hence, upon leaving Australia, he brought shoots of the Eucalyptus with him, and from this beginning we have the sequel of a widespread propagation in the State, and, to a limited extent, in adjoining ones. It belongs to the myrtle family, has a stringy outer bark, this readily stripped in after-growth, its inner bark being smooth like the eastern beech or button-wood, and frequently of as light 164 The Pilgrimage of color as the latter. Its leaves are thick and narrow, or, as the botanist would say, lanceolate in shape, like the peach leaf, though narrower, and its twigs terminating in axillary umbels, or heads, of apetalous flowers, with numerous stamens. Some species of these trees are said to rival in height the conifers of the Yosemite, being from 300 to 400 feet high. This tree is also exceptional in the fact that though a rapid grower, its wood is hard and durable and is, therefore, much used by the wood-workers and even by the pile-drivers. Some varieties have also medicinal qualities. Thus we whiled away the time, or varied our cogitations by ob- servations from our view-point to note the characteristic features of Millbrae, San Mateo, Bellmont, Eedwood, Menlo Park, Palo Alto, Santa Clara and San Jose. Being somewhat behind time, in consequence of said delay at Oakland, we make but a short stay at the last-named station — our itinerary providing that upon our return we may probably make a longer sojourn of a day, when we hope to make a fuller reference thereto. The next sta- tion of importance is Gilro)^, some thirty miles beyond, that has, of late years, made a large growth in consequence of becoming an important agricultural and fruit centre. MONTEEEY, Eeaching Monterey, at but little later than schedule time — a hurried lunch having been already taken before arrival, that no time may be lost in utilizing to the best advantage the balance of the day at our disposal. We, therefore, secure, with but little delay, commodious vehicles, drawn by well-groomed horses, and, with becoming despatch, take our seats therein — the heretofore self-restrained Knights and Ladies becoming perceptibly en- thused at the prospect of a seventeen-mile drive along the wind- ing shore of the majestic Pacific, to many of whom such an expansive view as was here supplied was the first in their experi- ence. Skirting the grounds of the Hotel del Monte, at whose railway station the Special had stopped, in the open, upon the side next to the town, we soon pass into the wooded district bordering the Pacific Grove Eetreat, already referred to as one of The San Francisco Club. 165 the favorite resorts of the Chautauqua Assembly — the said grounds, upon their farther limits from our point of observa- tion, bordering the Pacific shore. Now, passing out again into the open, the broad expanse of the ocean was fairly before us, with all its suggestions of sublimity ; and, as we have thought, the only material object that may justly be cited as a befitting illus- tration of the Infinite. And then, too, in its present placid mood, it seemed a like emblem of strength in repose, and, there- fore, another source of thought, fruitful in analogies like unto the overarching sky. Thus, silently dwelling upon the boundless object lesson before us, snatches of sentiment trooped through our brain, as caught by the inspired interpreters of the heart, when, one by our side, being similarly impressed, broke forth in the line, "Eoll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll," and then, as if overcome with emotion, he stopped. We waited for the further expression of the poet, but the feelings of the Knight became too deep for further utterance, and, therefore, we were obliged, sotto voce, to complete the Spencerian stanza, as we were unwilling to have him infer that we conceived sentiment to have overwhelmed his memory. Moreover, it was highly probable that he thought the one line was sufficient, and that the sequel was sufficiently well known to the coterie about him, and, therefore, it was most proper to subside. But to return from sentiment to the actual, we follow, in the main, the curvatures of the shore, along the part known as Moss Beach, whose velvety margin and clean washed sand sug- gest the characteristic phases of still life, while in supporting distance, beyond the seal rocks, in scattered groups and bolder knobs, just above the waters — a congenial play-ground to the pinniped denizens of the deep that here are wont to disport in the sunshine and leap, like diving boys from a spring-board, into the dashing waves. Unfortunately, this was one of their days off, and, therefore, they were not on hand according to pro- gram to do "stunts," so to speak. [N'ext, turning our eyes to the farthest point, Ave see, upon the highest knoll, what re- 166 The Pilgrimage of sembles a huge ostrich striding toward the sea — the illusion being most perfect. Upon closer inspection, the figure is seen to be the effect of the intertwining of the branches of two Monterey cypresses, that lean toward each other — the trunks being the legs, and the branches, with their twigs and leaves, making the body and feathers of the immense bird. The perfection of the resemblance is, of course, seen at the distance, and at a lower point, when the whole is seen against the background of the sky. This combination is but the outer picket to the Cypress Grove farther upon our way, that skirts the ocean beach at the entrance to Carmeio Bay. THE OCEAN OUTLOOK. Before turning our course in that direction, we drive up and out upon an elevated knoll that high overlooks the ocean, and, dismounting from our carriages, we walk out to the brink, and note the rocky sides that run sheer down into the raging surf, and upon the inner side of the spur of rock we see immense boulders, that have in time been disengaged and tumbled into the water-engulfed chasm, and, hence, as the tide rushes in, we see the streams racing each other in ocean glee into the crooks and crannies of the inner coves, only to rush back again with the receding waves, only to repeat the same in rythmic succession until, in the end, the coves are full and the ebb commences, when the game of hide and seek is renewed. There was an indescribable fascination associated M'ith the spot, generated by the details of the shoal and the magnificence of the outlook, with the constant refrain that the Author of the same, in connection with the capabilities that could cognize the picture in such harmonious relations, that we turned, with re- luctance, from the scene so fruitful in its associations and resume our seats. We then pass on from Cypress Point to the Grove so named, and become interested in the groups by the wayside. The species here found possess certain features that are indig- enous to this locality, and, therefore, they are recognized spe- cifically as the Monterey cypress (macrocarpa), and so named from the great height they attain from a comparatively slender The Han Francisco Club. 167 trunk — a height of 150 feet being reached with a trunk of but nine feet in circumference. We did not see any of the perfect Hpeeiinens, on account of the bleak, or rather storm-tossed, ex- posure of the situation of the grove, that has prevented such a development, along the fringe, at least, that the roadway leads. Hence, upon the contrary, of all the gnarled trunks and de- formed limbs that lace and interlace with each other in bizarre confusion, we have never before seen a parallel, while, at the same time, bearing evidences of an age, we believe, that far antedates the days of the discovery of America, and, no doubt, cotemporary with the l)ig trees of Mariposa and Calaveras, that belong to the same family of cedars — being, all of them, conifers, the latter being known to the botanist as the Sequoia gigantea, and the redwoods (so-called), being the other variety and known as the Sequoia sempervirens, upon the authority of Asa Gray, the leading American botanist, the Monterey cypress being of the same species. Hence, in this connection, we have also the further authority in regard to the alleged age, that the cone- bearing trees were the first flowering plants known upon the earth, having Ijcen introduced in the middle geological ages — the cedar, pine, spruce, fir and hemlock being all conifers, it will be recollected. It was natural, therefore, that we should all look upon this preserve of trees with feelings of awe, no doubt like unto ' those experienced by one looking for the first time upon the said big trees, which, it will be recalled, are also indig- enous to this State. Passing, therefore, beyond the grove into the woodlands l)eyond, we pass over the hills and the vales of the peninsula that is all included in the property of the cor- poration owning the Hotel del Monte, and, hence, can readily see their wise forethought in providing for such improvements as an enlarged park that the coming years may demand, and that will thus, in time, be but a continuation of the even now un- rivaled near environment of the hotel. As we pass over cleared portions of the preserve, we notice covey after covey of part- ridges running over the grassy slopes into the bordering wood- lands, with an evident sense of security that speaks well for the superintendency of the grounds. 168 The Pilgrimage of MONTEEEY. And now, we are en route for the town, which all are much interested to see from its historic associations, and particularly the writer, to whom the very mention of the name recalled the associations of childhood, and the lasting impression made by the circumstances of the Mexican War, at which time he was a resident of Washington City. We recalled to our companion a stanza of a song that we heard the boys of that day attempt to sing, entitled "The Maid of Monterey," that recurred to our memory as we turned into the main street of the town. And, too, the impression was made upon our mind that there was something in the very atmosphere suggestive of a clinging to the antecedents of more than a hundred years ago that betrayed a degree of self-repose upon the part of the dwellers in the domi- cils by the way, that has not yet been entirely displaced by the invasion of the hustling America of the East, and, hence, we see the retention of a quaintness that is not all confined to the adobe structures that meet us at every turn. The earliest men- tion of the place in history, we learn, was the entrance into the bay and the landing of San Sebastian Vizcayno, in 1602, who named the place Monte Eey, in honor of Gaspar de Yuniga, Count de Monte Eey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. The next most important event in its early history, it will also be recalled, was the establishment here, in 1770, by the Padre Juni- pero Serra of the second of the Franciscan Missions founded in California. The town early became the capital of the territory, and many of the Spanish, Mexican and American governors made their homes in the place. It was the centre of many stir- ring events connected with the occupation of California by the United States Government. The Cuartel (barracks), the old Block House and Fort, the old Custom House, with its cypress shade trees and quaint second-story veranda, the Calaboose and Commissariat, the Catholic church and Colton Hall, where the Constitutional Convention of 1849 was held, are all that remain to remind the visitor of that interesting past. These are pointed out more or less to us as we pass through its streets to the crest The San Francisco Cliib. 169 of the elevation, upon whose slope the town is built. The number of residents are about a thousand, and though but little local activity is apparent, yet it is said that during a year a considerable amount of the products of the farms inland, and of the fisheries are exported. HOTEL DEL MONTE. Its famous scenic and climatic attractions are, however, what have given it such precedence and made it possible to call into existence the famous Hotel del Monte, here located. It was thitherward then, after our drive through the town, that our vehicles were directed, and driving to the main en- trance of the hotel, we dismissed our teams, ere starting out afoot to explore the "Elysian Fields," from vantage ground of this paragon of hostelries. Located in grove of stately oaks, pines and cedars, with such other evergreen and deciduous trees as could, by continuous attention, be acclimated and pre- served in the latitude, we have the actual association of the hardy and the exotic growing in wondrous perfection, side by side, in the full flower of promise. And then, under the magic resources of the most expert of landscape gardeners, of whom a regiment is in constant service, we have designs of parterres more ornate and lawns more exquisite than the dreams of the connoisseur, or the hand of the artist has yet, so far as we have seen in our Pilgrimage, been able to materialize before our inquisitive gaze. Then, too, the species of flowering plants are beyond enumera- tion, and while all are not perennial, yet the association there- with of the periodic bloomers is so well timed that the parterres are ever crowned with beauty and the air ever redolent with fragrance. The wondrous palms, feather and hawthorn trees, with over- hanging moss-draped oaks, make shadowy vistas that convert every path into lovers' lanes in pleasing contrast to every prome- nade that terminates in gardens of roses, whose infinitude of varieties is paralleled only by a like measure of geometric de- signs of crosses and crowns, stars and polygons, vases and pyra- mids garnatured with trailing vines and the variegated leafage 170 The Pilgrimage of of innumerable colenses. The evergreen hedges and quaint block designs of the Monterey cypress, from twelve to fifteen feet high, and from four to eight thick, of the maze, confound by their originality, as well as lead astray the luckless wight that would dare to thread its devious ways withour a guide, or mount the guards in imagined release from its bewildering toils — a toute ensemble that delights by its variety, without involving the integrity of the colossal plan as a whole. And now, turning for a moment from the ground survey to that of the hotel ex- terior, we note its leafy embellishments of the ever-blooming heliotrope, hanging in graceful festoons about the outer walls, while climbing roses, in their wealth of luxuriance, almost shut in the broad verandas that surround the greater part of the main Ijuilding, in pleasing contrast to the other climbers of wis- teria and lavender that envelope the higher gables. Again, we turn to take a last look at the inimitable scene, as we stand with the broad central promenade before us, bordered with its exuberance of colors and verdure upon either side, as we look down the same toward the enchanting mirror of the Laguna del Eey, with its conical-shaped cypresses environing its limpid waters — the whole enwrapped in the reflections of the dying da}^ that contributed to impress the beholder with the thought that now, surely, the climax of landscape gardening has been reached, and that, therefore, naught farther can be desired to complete the parting vision. Thus, in silent contemplation, we ruminate as we slowly turn our footsteps into the hotel, and survey its capacious courts, that we may discover if its domestic comforts may successfully compete with the Elysian dreams of the outer realm. And here, also, we may say that in the appeal to the eye, as well as to the sense of comfort, we find the products of the highest efforts of the mechanic and decorative arts in full complement, as they contribute to meet the requirements of convenience, elegant ease and good taste, and, therefore, without doubt, also justly suggestive of a cuisine concurring in like ample resources. Not having, however, enjoyed any of the inviting appeals of the palate, nor inspected any of the dormitory appointments, we The San Francisco Cluh. 171 cannot speak authoritatively of the claims of either, but from what we have seen, we doubt not that the unseen can affirm a like degree of excellence as that so fully demonstrated in the environment. And now that we have made a superficial review of the at- tractions of Del Monte, the writer is asked as to his intentions in regard to his taking up his abode, for a season or two, within its sumptuous apartments. In reply, we can only say in sub- stance with Sir Knight ]\Iacklin, of the Club, when similarly interrogated, that he was not yet prepared to accept the invita- tion, but that his decision would be based upon the continuance or failure of the 300-barrel daily output of his oil wells ; so we may reply, though more explicitly, that we are not so favored, even prospectively, with any such plethora of income, and, therefore, can but say, that even though our bank ac- count, in the language of the Hon. Silas Wright, of other days, when referring to certain plans advocated by his opponents for the rehabilitation of the United States Treasury, "was now bursting from distension, it would soon collapse from depletion," "and entail the necessity, in order to recoup the same, of my companion's "taking in washing," the writer to take the contract of a stevedore, unless he were content, like the New York cobbler, to follow industriously his trade eleven months of the year, that he might, during the twelfth month, pick his teeth upon the stoop of the Waldorf -Astoria. ISTo, no; rather than be driven to this dernier resort, allow us to say, with the distinguished patriot, "Give me liberty" to decline, "or give me" financial "death." We, therefore, turn, away satisfied to yield the floor to the Crockers, the Stanfords, the Huntingtons, the Dillons, the Clarks and the Hills of the West, or the Astors, the Vanderbilts or the Carnegies of the East, to register at del Monte, as we shall be content to stick to the Special a while longer, and upon leaving the same to return to our sauer kraut of Pennsylvania. Therefore, returning to our group of the like-minded, we re- turn leisurely to the Special, dilating upon the experiences of the day, and after a due rehearsal thereof, nevertheless well satisfied to Join in the song of "Home iVgain," etc. 173 The Pilgrimage of Having now an appetite invigorated by the air of old ocean, the "call to dinner" is readily obeyed, and all seem to partake as freely of the bill of fare as if the choicest viands of del Monte had been at our disposal. Thereafter, all are content to remain in their sections for the balance of the evening, al- though our departure is billed for an early hour, and further gleanings of food for reflection might yet be gathered by further explorations. The majority were, therefore, soon oblivious to their surroundings and, therefore, knew not the hour at which the Special drew out from the siding, and, hence, with Long- fellow, could truthfully say, that "We folded our tents, like the Arabs, And as silently stole away." o o o The San Francisco Cluh. 173 CHAPTER XXV. OFF FOR SANTA BARBARA. Aug. 31st — "First call" to breakfast recalls many of us to con- sciousness, and, wishing not to lose too much of the opening hours, we tarry not unduly upon the order of our doffing the habiliments of the night (euphoniously known as pajamas), and donning the vestments of the day, we are ready in due time to exchange our morning salutations with others that are in the same category, as we pass to appropriate some of the contributions of the dining £ar. It is true that the "earlier birds" have been angling for the choice cuts, but knowing that the larder is ever stocked for "more than are coming," we feel no solicitude about the after- math, in which opinion w^e are endorsed by Sir Rudy, who is always late, and yet ever "comes up smiling." The sequel being no exception to the general rule, and the physical having been restored to its co-ordinate efficiency, the proverb of the ancient philosopher is capable of being once more realized in the "sound mind" (men's sana) "in a sound body" (in corpore sano) ; we, therefore, with such encouragement, return to our wonted perch of observation, and note our latitude. We learn that we are in the environs of Concepcion, whose point of the same name, by its extension into the sea, marks the northern limits of the Santa Barbara Cove or Bay, whose waves wash its seaward shores. The luxuriant pasture lands of the peninsula, of which the town is the centre, is the chief source of its prosperity. Gaviota is the next station approached, and is so named from a pass not far distant, in the Sierras, that is said to be very interesting as a sample of water attrition in wearing away the rocks in the course of the channel of the perennial stream of the same name that courses down into the fertile valley below. This is also a stage station, and is reminiscent of the traveling vehicles that were the sole public modes of conveyance in the region before the railway invaded their territory. 174 The Pilgrimage of Naples station next succeeds, standing npon a headland that commands the rear-lying valley, where the town lies — the upper portion of which is visible as the eye follows the road downward from the station, while the railway here veers to the left; and, although at some elevation above the sea, the oak and sycamore covered cliffs and landward declining slopes still hide the ex- panse of waters for the coming miles yet intervening before Santa Barbara is reached. Elwood, Goleta and Hopevale, with its characteristic name, is passed, and but four miles yet remain before Santa Barbara and the broad ocean will again monopolize our attention for another day. The station buildings, at which we duly arrive, are about three-fourths of a mile from the principal street of the little city, whose seaward extension runs at right angles with the ocean beach. The street railway, that affords transit to the city, has a caboose to the right of the railway, and beyond the numer- ous siding tracks that have to be crossed to reach the same, and, at the time of our sojourn here, were, for the most part, occupied by other trains than our own, which was the only matter of an- noyance that we had to contend with while here. While, also, the street railway takes the angular course of the streets, there is also a footway that takes a diagonal course across the vacant blocks to the limits of the town, and this we utilize extensively in our passage to and fro. We, therefore, tarry not long in leaving the Special, and some, by trolley, but the majority by the footway, hasten to absorb the best that the city of the "Smiling Channel," as the Bay is called, can afford, and as patrons for the time being mingle in the amenities of a place justly cele- brated as one of the best seaside resorts of this or any other land. Its attractions were sufficiently known thirty years ago to command the attention of the tourist public over a considerable area of the country, Ijut when the railway was brought within reach, the thousands came where hundreds earlier could reach it by steamer service from the seaport towns. Its natural loca- tion in the lap of the Yuez Mountains, that curve around the lowlands upon its western slopes, supplied the superb situation. The San Francisco Cluh. 175 that, taking into consideration the almost constant salubrity of the climate, gave the coveted opportunity for what wealth and artistic skill could add to beautify and render available to a constituency embracing all lands. Therefore, in traversing the streets, particularly from the business section to the Mission, we see, upon natural slopes and regularly graded terraces, the homes of the more permanent residenters, many of which are elabo- rately beautified by large expenditures of money, labor and ar- tistics design— the Spanish- American style predominating— and almost buried in a growth of flowering plants, both exotic and acclimated that show such a slight variability in temperature in their perfection of growth, that a perennial luxuriance is thus possible that tends to constantly gladden the eye and intoxicate the sense. THE MISSION. It is true that watering is, at certain periods of the year, neces- sary to preserve perennial perfection, and that, in the dry season, the dust is plentiful in the unpaved streets, but these objections are being materially modified by grading, preparatory to improved asphalt paving, and the introduction of water to all points. Hence, in our way through the streets, these improve- ments, it is seen, are being made, and, therefore, in time, it is the intention of the city fathers that the short period of dust that, m the lower sections, now begrime vegetation, will dis- appear to a great extent. Such is now the outlook, and such we believe at an early date will be the prevailing condition. And, hence, in passing from one of the beautiful sites to another, our pleasure feels no intermittance, but, rather, is enhanced, until we reach the masterpiece of the Spanish architectural style of the early period of settlement. In our approach from the town, we halt m front of the arched openings of the long arcade, whose wall-sides opposite the said openings have doorwavs leading into the original refectory, that flanks the church with its massive walls and tower-buttressed front. These towers, fac similes of each other, stand side by side upon the corners of the front facade, and terminate in square elevations which are cupalo- 176 The Pilgiimage of crowned, and enclose the bells that have chimed the Ave Marias and Gloria Tibis for the Aborigines, as well as their conquerors, in the early Colonial days, since 1782, the date of the founding of the Mission. The main doorway, occupying the centre of the said facade, is approached by a flight of stone steps, extending across the entire front of the building, wliich, by their age-worn appearance, comport well with the whole of the antiquated walls. The interior of the church, in its pictures and other sacerdotal adornments, carry us back to the Mediaeval shrines of Venice and Eome, and, therefore, awaken within us a desire to inspect the prominent attractions of the sacristy and altar. The main audience was, however, quite dark, and other objects of interest in the famous garden of palms, cacti, figs and innumerable flowering plants, with the fixed attraction of fountain and vault, in which latter are deposited the remains of the deceased padres of the Mission since its foundation — all demand at least a cursory examination. The refectory and cellar, entrance to which is from the arcade (as before stated), possesses attractions to the majority of the Sir Knights and their Ladies on account of the sacred curios there exhibited, paintings and other associations that conspire to carry us back to a period both novel and unprece- dented in the progressive history of our times, unless it be in the other localities of the coast region, with like association as in the case of San Diego, Santa Monica and the like. As, how- ever, the conservatism of the past has now given way to even the radical of the present, the desire to mingle in the up-to-date attractions of the beach impose restrictions upon our further explorations in this locality and, therefore, we bid the monkish representative of the religious recluse a kind farewell and return to our waiting vehicles. THE BOULEVAED. Therefore, speeding down the macadamized slope onto the broad asphaltum roadway, bordering upon and somewhat ele- vated above the Pacific front, we find ourselves, as by the magic of a dream, ushered into the practical realization of the most beautiful promenade and driveway that has yet greeted us during The San Francisco Club. our Pilgrimage," already so full of agreeable surprises. This boulevard, bordered upon each side at the curb line by mammoth palms ot an average three to four feet trunk girth, and planted at intervals of about twenty feet for the distance of a one half mile terminating at its northern end in a plaza of similar at- tractions of gem-like lawns and parterres in coped enclosures and urrounded by inviting restful seats in close proximity to the arched front of the Los Banos del Mar, that has its o J attrac- hons also Ot the latter, a passing notice is worthy of record Erected after the popular Spanish-American order of arcMtet ture-its outer walls finish in the finest surfacing of a troweled stucco and of the standard yellowish tinge, like that of the Mis- sion and having upon its right and left centre arched arcades roof covered with the long, reddish, laterally curved tilino- of the period, and relieved at equi-distant points by square embrasured lZ7: r '^ ^^^ ?jr^nM,l roofs, similarly tiled-these con. itutmg wings, as it were, of the central massive arch-to which they are conjoined-the upper half-section of said central arch furnishing a deep alcove, equipped with orchestral appoint- ments, from which is daily dispensed, at least in the shadowy hours of evening, such musical selections as best befit the inspir- ng surroundings. The hood-like elevation of the orchestral loft tudZll T'r'^^y ^^ juxtaposition with an elevated longi- tudinally extending clear story, that furnishes a covering for the bailing pool withm, and its surrounding galleries, whe^re spec tator. are wont to assemble and watch the bathers sporting below Hence, we have here a combination of attractions most tnviting to the tourist and health-seeker of every latitude, and, we may 2', / ' "^ *^' ^'^^ *° '^''' ^^ ^^' ^^^^i««^^ of the plaza. un.t! ] fVr' ^'""\ ""^'^ ^'^'^^ ^° connection with the beach, unparalleled by any that the tide laves, or the undertow avoids we have a conjunction of elements that no other locality can equal-a circ^umstanee that must eventuate in making Santa tT" Z^"' ""''''''' '' ^'''''''' ""''y '' the Pacific coast, since, m addition to the aforesaid attractions, it has no month as cow as the April, or so warm as the June of the former, and therefore, much less so than the latter. Moreover, enjoying the 178 The Pilgrimage of pre-eminence of an average climatic temperature for the winter of 55 degrees and of 64 degrees for the summer, with ocean waters sufficiently tepid to be used for bath purposes at all seasons of the year. One may, therefore, readily sanction the foresight of the projectors of the Potter House, in their selection of the site par excellence of Burton-Mound, facing, as it does, the boule- vard and the ocean at a distance of about 1,000 yards, with the additional capabilities of the intervening park that has already been beautified by asphaltum walks, radiating from the hotel to the boulevard and other bounds of the enclosure, as well as to the oval, triangular and other geometric parterres, that here and there are conspicuous in the spaces of the extensive lawn — all involving an expenditure of money equal to a half million of dollars, with embellishments still being made. It is, there- fore, demonstrated that the management anticipate a future patronage of the elite of the land that will rival, if not dwarf, that of other places of like resort not so favorably endowed. The Hotel Arlington, with its capacious annex and elegant equip- ment, will also come to the front for original patronage, or for the overflow of the Potter House, as the case may be under the very probable demand of the coming season. Turning away, now, from these considerations, and passing on to the beach near the plaza, we note the crowd that patronize the surf, among whom are conspicuous a large contingent of the Club, who disport in the waves with as much composure as if they were in a home mill-pond or in the flood of the "raging canal." Hence, we watch to see the overthrow of some bucking the breakers as they roll in, four and five white-caps following in quick succession of long majestic swells, as if to say, "no chop seas for us," our crests having been generated amid seas, or set in motion by the simoons of the Orient. It might be deemed a matter involving invidious distinctions to designate any as strong swimmers, as if, in disparagement of the rest (which we depre- cate), and, hence, in naming Sir Knight Beitler and his Lady as buffeting the billows as if "born to the main," or his right- bower, Sir Knight Bacon, who was an equally good support, as an expert in his acrobatic specialties upon the crest of the waves — The San Francisco Cluh. 179 we do so because we most readily recognized them in their briny evolutions. CASTLE EOCK. Having thus whiled away a good part of an hour in said di- versions, we concluded to explore the beech beyond, as far as Castle Eock, and, perhaps, beyond, as the case might be ; the in- termediate distance being along the parapeted shore, that is here frequently invaded by the huge breakers of the storm-driven Main, and, therefore, destructive of the overhanging embank- ment that lifts its precipitous sides to a height of some fifty feet and more. Hence, we have the necessity for the said parapet as a ])reak-water and the guard of the footway, or terminal promenade. The final buttress of the parapet being Castle Eock, and the footway passing up and over the depression that separates the rock from the mainland spur, the writer felt ambitious to mount the same, and discover what might be beyond. The view seaward from Castle Eock is worth the walk, though much in- ferior to that of the ridge at the rear of the same. The spur once crossed, the pathway again descends to sand-rolled beach — the ridge escarpment retreating from the water's edge for a distance of some forty or fifty feet, and thereby leaves a margin suf- ficiently wide for the erection thereon of a number of diminutive bath-houses that appear to be patronized to a considerable extent by those desirous of greater seclusion than the main beach below. Eeturning to the plaza, and reporting the outlook from Castle Eock, Sir Knights Warren and Forney, and their Ladies, con- cluded to take in the same also. The writer accompanied them a short distance beyond Castle Eock, but, having noted at this point that the incline of the ridge escarpment might possibly be scaled, and though quite steep, he debated his ability for some time to climb to the top, as he felt ambitious to get the ocean view from the summit. The attempt was made, and by utilizing shallow gullies and the scanty roots of shrubs, the summit was, at length, gained. And, upon looking downward, the declivity looked so formidable that he declined to attempt to return 180 The Pilgrimage of to the beech by the same route. And, next, what of the view? Looking around and seaward, we felt compensated for the labor of the climb, even though compelled to admit that we could not trace the shores beyond the pond. The broad sweep of the shore, by a gentle curve, revealed to us Point Concepcion, though its light-house, being a little inland from our point of observa- tion, was invisible. The spur and Castle Eock obstructed the view to the left, while the plateau at our rear was open to further exploration. Taking time to recover our wind, we set out to reconnoitre, and, finding a devious path leading apparently toward the Plaza, we followed, and came to its end in another zigzag leading to the rear of the main bath house, already re- ferred to. THE PLAZA. Having already spoken of the exterior of the Los Banos Del Mar, we now conclude to enter and take in its facilities in prac- tical use. Joining the crowd in the galleries set apart for visitors, we become interested in the bathers below, as many of them execute their aquatic gymnastics of the high dive, toboggan slide, head or feet first, the varieties of swimming, floating, etc. Here, also, we note the accommodations for all seasons, ages and conditions for the benefit of those who may not wish to buffet the surf. Thus occupied for another period, we again withdrew and joined other groups upon the Plaza below, and gaze for awhile longer out upon the vasty deep, wondering "What were the wild waves saying," and then imagining the response to come, "The Hand that made us is Divine." We accept the finale, and, turning our footsteps toward the booths of curios, full stocked with the devices of men and the products of the sea, we are again entertained for a few moments longer, but the sinking of the sun toward its exit beyond the sea reminds us that the return to the Special is in order, if we would enjoy an interim of rest before returning at a later hour to hear the orchestral strains upon the Plaza. Dinner having been discussed to our satisfaction, and a few The San Francisco Club. 181 social moments employed thereafter, a party was improvised to return to the Plaza to wliile away an hour or two in the diversion of watching the visiting complement of the local habitues, the transient patron, or to take in the effect of the brilliantly-lighted boulevard and Potter House Park, as well as to be entertained by the orchestra. As the entire scene was a unique one from the nature of the case, we were interested to absorb the whole, including the specialty of the musical entertainment. The selec- tions of the last-named were reasonably good, independent of the effect of the environment, which might influence the hearer to compliment even an ordinary program. While thus em- ployed our companion and the writer were somewhat diverted by a little "scrap" that we overheard, involving a couple of spectators that sat near us, not so much by the words that passed, which were generally sotto voce, but in the far away look that seemed to possess the eyes and looks of the gent, as Mrs. Caudle put in her animadversions with an apparent eye to business, and a facial play that was interesting, if not inspiring to other than the auditor most involved. His bearing seemed to indicate that "he had been there before," and, therefore, his abstracted look appeared to be the best index that he could have presented of injured innocence. Upon the whole, we thought it an appro- priate object lesson "of being seen as others see us," even though the environment be ever so enchanting and suggestive of unison of sentiment rather than of "scrappy" discord between the "high contracting parties." But parting "variety" must add its spice," or we could not enjoy to the full the totality of "life." Hence, with this "understudy" of the comic phase, as a contrast to the higher aesthetical of the orchestra, we thought it well "to move on" without awaiting the denouement of the by-play. Therefore, after taking another view of the shell curios, that we recalled was here a specialty of the nearby booth, with- out stopping to interrogate at length the keeper upon her erudi- tion in conchology, but stopping only long enough to make a few trifling purchases, we resume our farewell stroll down the brilliant boulevard, and, under the spell of its suggestive ac- companiments, we take the return trolley, with others that have 182 The Pilgrimage of straggled in from the Potter House and elsewhere, and are soon once more within the portals of the Special. The hours have slipped away, the porter is ready for us, and, therefore, without further delay sleep is wooed, that is not so coy as to long refuse its welcome embrace. COO The San Francisco Club. 183 CHAPTER XXVI. THE CURTAIN DRAWN". September 2d. Awakening upon the morning of said date, we find the Special is not in motion, and, upon looking out, we find ourselves in a railway station, and, hence, conclude that something has transpired during the night. Upon arising and going out to take in the situation, we soon learn that we are in Los Angeles, or, as it was early honored by the Spanish- Americans with the grandiloquent name of Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angelles — "Our Lady the Queen of the Angels," it may be well not to forget the latter name in our intense desire to abridge. The "call to breakfast" being honored without undue delay, a hurried consultation was held upon the part of some, and predestined intentions upon the part of others, which ended in the majority of the Club making their first break for the Santa Catalina Island, with its unique attractions. As the writer was one of the minority, and preferred to develop a dif- ferent program for the day, it becomes necessary to accept the statements of another in regard to said island experiences of the party that went thither. We, therefore, beg leave to quote Sir Knight Macklin's description of the details of the trip thitherward, as follows : "We went to Catalina Island, twenty-five miles by steam cars to the ocean and about thirty miles over the blue waves of the Pacific Ocean, which is the farthest point west I ever expect to reach. It was foggy when the big steamer left her wharf, and the fog whistle sounded continuously for some time, but when we got out of sight of land it lifted, and sky and water were visible to the rim of the horizon. The long, steady swells of the Pacific are said to be more conducive to sea sickness than the less steady beat of old Atlantic's pulse, and I expected to be one of the first to give up something to the sea, but I proved to be a regular Jack tar. Several of our delegates were laid 184 The Pilgrimage of out, however, early in the voyage. In about two hours we ar- rived at Avalon, the only town on the island, built along the shores of its beautiful curving bay. Back of the town, the hills rise abruptly, brown and bare of vegetation. In fact, nothing is cultivated on the island except the winter tourist and people seeking a summer all-the-year-climate. Sea gulls are most numerous and quite domesticated in their habits. One can almost pick them up upon the streets of Avalon, along the bay. Here the fisherman revels. All the fish are game and caught with rod and reel. A Jewfish was taken the afternoon we were there, and its weight was only 201 pounds, but occasionally one is captured that weighs -iOO pounds and over. The greatest variety of fish are found here, only a short distance from the shore. The town has a population of 400, part of whom live in a tent city, and certainly they are isolated from the world, being dependent altogether upon the coming of the steamship for their living (except fish), and for news from the mainland. Curio stores abound here, for the sale of shells and trinkets, and they did a big business with the 600 excursionists on the boat. The glass-bottom boat traffic is a great and thriving one. We were entreated on all sides by a score of energetic boatmen, who wanted to show us the wonders of the deep for twenty-five cents — the marine gardens — and what a never-to-be-forgotten sight it is to look through the glass bottoms in the row and power boats, to the depth of eighty feet, and see the beautiful mosses and the forests of slender and delicately-colored plants and the fiower-laden vegetation that exists under the sea, with rare and costly shells gleaming in their wealth of color among the white rocks of these indescribable caverns of the sea, while in the clear, still water of this fairy-land these sylvan depths of old ocean, golden yellow fish, blue-colored fish, rock bass and other species of the finny tribe, great and small, poised in the mirror- like depths of the bay or played hide and seek among the mosses and plants. It was a revelation to us all. Indeed, even yet, it seems like a dream. Boys live in the water here like ducks, and dive into the deep clear waters of the bay for nickles or dimes thrown in by the tourists, and they get them every time." The San Francisco Club. 185 The said minority thereupon started out to explore the city, some by trolley and some by carriage, according to the individual preference or objective point that each had in view. To the most of us that have heard and read of the city during the late years, the chief attraction of the city was that it was one of beautiful homes. The rare beauty of the grounds surrounding these homes of Los Angeles and nearby Pasadena, has, during the past decade, been the constant theme of those that have visited this section from the East, and, therefore, it was but natural that we should be desirous of verifying these statements by our own experience. Other cities of the great commercial centres may show grander blocks of sky-scraping business houses, but in the display of ornate lawn and garden surroundings none can equal Los Angeles upon a large scale, though its sister city of Pasadena may excel in some respects upon a small scale. The salubrity of the climate allows the most delicate plants and trees to flourish in the open air during the entire year. Even during the period of our eastern midwinter there may be here seen hedges of calla lilies, geranium bushes ten feet and more in height, and heliotrope covering the sides of the houses, while jasmine, tuberoses and orange blossoms make the air redo- lent with fragrance. Giant bananas wave their graceful leaves even in the most gentle breezes, and the fan and the date palm grow to mammoth sizes, while deluges of roses of every variety enliven the whole. Evidences of these were seen upon every hand, as we pass into the special residential portions of the city, and being fortunate in making the acquaintance of a citizen Knight, formerly from the East, who rode with us, many of these beauties were pointed out, and much information imparted as to what portions of the city would best compensate us in the limited time at our disposal. Hence, we noted, as we passed, that the majority of the residences stand in spacious grounds, 50 by 150 feet being about the smallest lots that were improved to the extent of the average. Many of the residences have grounds about them from one to five acres, with the entire plat in the highest state of culture, exhibiting their perennial green lawns, relieved by a handsome growth of pepper tree, palm, 186 The Pilgrimage of orange and fig. Along the sides of the roadway, also, shade trees are abundant — the graceful pepper tree, with its festoons of red berries, like our mountain ash, though more luxuriant in size of bunches ; the eucalyptus, the cypress and the grevilla are the favorites. The great majority of the houses are of wood — the pine and redwood being the most popular. These species of material are well suited to the climate, and, being highly capable of decora- tive purposes, their extensive use in such structures outrival the more ponderous wood and stone. WEST LAKE PARK. Therefore, in order to see these in their greatest perfection, as, for instance, in the environs of Westlake Park, after separat- ing from our polite acquaintance, and at his suggestion we went thitherward. And we are happy to say that we found the reality far beyond our expectations. It will be recalled that this park is but one of the dozen for which Los Angeles is noted. These aggregate, within the city limits, more than 600 acres in all, and one-half of them are of considerable size. We perambulated only Westlake exhaustively. We found the same so called be- cause it encloses a lake upon three sides, the Seventh street car line passing along the fourth side, which is tree-bordered upon both sides of the bounding sidewalk also — the enclosed lake cov- ering an area of thirty-five acres. The aforesaid three sides rise in terraces above the water, and at their limits are bounded by drives. The terraces first command attention, being beauti- fied by plant and flowering shrubs, as only the most expert of gardeners could adorn them, contrasted with bewitching sur- prises and intersecting walks, revealing superb effects — rein- forced by the background of palatial residences upon still higher ffround, that consummate the combined effect in architectural contrast. We pass through the entire park enveloping the lake, to note the different effects from its matchless promenade that environ the lake, which, in turn, is supplied with numerous fancy crafts to enliven the whole. The sun, also, enthroned in a cloudless sky, bathes the scene in its resplendent rays, that give The San Francisco Club. IS'] a golden shimmer to the scene, that suggests the "perfumed light" that Claude Melnotte — a creation of Bulwer— so loved to dilate upon to his fair inamorata. Were we equally free in suggestion, we would advocate a change of name to Lovers' Re- treat, whose very atmosphere is a realm peopled with "winged feet," associated "with hands and hearts immaculate as light, without a thought of evil and without a name for fear." And were it not that other dreams may yet await us, we might here still tarry longer, with the thought that there was nothing be- yond. If, however, it were but a dream materialized, it has its duplicates a half score of times, we were informed, in the remaining parks of the city to further sustain its proud claim to be the dwelling place of the angels. . And, then, when led to realize that such evidences of luxury could only be the sequel of a business activity that must first materialize to admit of such expenditure of wealth, and which, in turn, may justly be considered to be the creation of but little more than a score of years the "wonder grows" that such a reality could be attained in so short a time. Though founded by a band of colonists (pobladores) emigrants from the States Simaloa and Sonora, of Mexico, in September, 1781, the census of 1790 gave a population of but 141. In January, 1847, the population was still only 1,500. And after a further growth of thirty-three years the census of 1880 showed an increase to 11,311. And even yet there was but little show of business activity apparent to even the most optimistic. Five years later, however, in November, 1885, the last spike of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad was driven, connecting the two oceans and thus enabling Los Angeles to enter into competition by railway trans- portation with other points that previously maintained a mo- nopoly thereof. Then note the change in fifteen years to the returns of the census of 1900, that gives a population of 103,479, with an estimated population of to-day of 150,000— the realiza- tion of a fact that is more wonderful than fiction.. Hence, it is asked, what have been the chief factors ultimating in such a growth, and the ground of dependence for its future expansion ? The intelligent citizen replies, primarily and unalterably— the 188 The Pilgrimage of climate, soil and location — that, from the nature of the case^ are stable. Moreover, when it is recalled that there was not a paved street in the city fifteen years ago, and that now there are 350 miles of graded and graveled roadways, 20 miles of paved and nearly 400 miles of cement and asphaltum sidewalks, and 175 miles of sewers, whose system includes an outfall to the ocean — the phenomenon begins to materialize. The electrical system is twenty years old, is universal and so up-to-date that the city is to-day one of the best lighted in the United States. Its prin- cipal articles of export are fruits, vegetables (potatoes and beans chiefly), wine and brandy, wool, honey, canned goods, sugar, Avheat, corn and barley. Its banks show a deposit of $53,700,000 and clearing of $288,000,000 for the year 1903, an increase in the latter of more than 25 per cent, over 1902, and 400 per cent, over 1898. Its building activities alone, during 1903, are said to have involved an expenditure of $13,000,000. Of its street railway system, of modern and well-equipped cars, we can speak from experience, and when it is stated that it comprises 200 miles, all electric, the enterprise involved therein confirms future expectations, and in the latter connection it is said that when the system is completed it will connect the city with all centres within a radius of thirty miles, and thereby increase the mileage to 500. Located upon the shortest and lowest graded railway line be- tween the Atlantic and Pacific, it possesses an advantage that cannot be discounted. Having railway competition on three transcontinental lines, and a fourth one being laid, all fear for the future in this connection is dissipated. The result of the appropriation by the Federal Government of $3,000,000 for the building of a large breakwater, and the dredging for a deeper water channel at San Pedro, will permit ocean-going vessels to come to its wharves, and thus enable the city to further compete for a good share of the Oriential trade; and this, with the completion of the Nicaragua Canal, will still further expand opportunities in this direction for the further benefit of Los Angeles. Taking these considerations, therefore, The San Francisco Club. jgg in connection with the fact that the city lies about half-way be- tion of 300 feet above the sea, the desirability of its site with such a productive area, under contribution of inexhaustible re- sources we begin to apprehend wliy its citizens affirm that thev are to the manor born, "one and inseparable." THE OIL SECTION. ty,f^\ '°, "''"° '?'" '""■ '^«'-=^^i™> "'o take up the further thiead of our wanderings. Leaving, therefore, Westlake Park we take a dn-ect.on different from our route of approach, and find ourselves we adm.t, without premeditation, in the oil section ot the c,ty. For the evidences here found of the exploitation of th od industry we were taken entirely by surprise, that we had and herefore to be suddenly confronted with scores of derrick Ind t„?T y"""''"" '"* *° '"^"''J' "^ t° "^ productiveness and financial returns. We learned, however, that although pe- of Lo» Angeles and Ventura for the past twenty-five years, yet It has not been until recently that the discovery of this rich find attention of capitalists and thus greatly increase the total pro- duction. In 1902, about one-fourth of the output of the sLte «^ produced m this section, which is confined to a narrow nrodnct;„„ , ™''' °' V'<' <;5,000,000 barrels' yield of the State's were c dirr!, ""'■''''' '""'*'°= "''' «'°»»'«»0 ^""^1^ Tatelv Tb T '"="°°' "' ' '■"'"« "' «^'=00'«»» »PP™-- manuLt ^T f" "' "'^ '""^^ "" '^ handled ik the a Ph tum"t°h' "'r^^'T' '"'"' "■"■"i-t-g oil, etc. Of outout r; nnn . "^ P'™'' "^ "^'^ "'? "■''^ <=''P«"<= of an output of 3,000 tons annually. It is thought that under similar t™ roT b n'°'"°™'^' ""™ * '^^ '--' -" "« *heTead- mfrked a vf V"""" " "" P™'"°"™' "' "''■*> »^ "^'^^"^^ '■^- Angeles, The oil here brought to the surface differs from that 190 The Pilgrimage of of the Eastern States in being of a heavier grade, with a decided asphaltum base, and, hence, it is used almost exclusively for fuel, and from tests made it was shown that oil at $1.00 per barrel was equal in heating power to coal at $4.00 per ton. Thus, it is seen that this oil industry has been of great pecuniary benefit to Los Angeles in more than one line of industry, and, therefore, we felt abundantly compensated by the information obtained for having wandered to this part of the city. Thereupon, leaving this locality, which is one of the hilly sec- tions of the city, we descend into the business portion, prepara- tory to making another departure to some other point. There- fore, traversing several of the streets, the real elegance, height and permanence of the business blocks become, in many places, very conspicuous. The Braly block — a building of twelve stories, of which the upper two are quite ornamental, with their rounded pilasters separating hooded and circular crowned windows, and surmounted by square guttae and resetted cornice that give a very handsome finish to the whole. The Pacific Electric Inter- urban Building, of ten stories, that is said to contain more floor space than any other building west of Chicago. The said floor space available for use is approximately eleven acres — more than sufficient to furnish all the office room that was required in the city twenty-five years ago. The Conservative Life Building, of handsome facade, of six stories — the upper ornamented with projecting corner balconied windows and ornate lintels — the intermediate windows similarly ornamented, but with a different design. The Chamber of Com- ]nerce attracts much attention from its unique columnar finish of Ionic capitals, constituting the facade of the three upper stories; in connection with the pilaster supports of the three ground stories — the latter relieved centrally with like Ionic columnar door frame — the whole design anticipating, as it were, the permanent beautiful display of fruits and flowers upon the exhibition floor within. The public buildings are also noteworthy, among which the most conspicuous is the county Court House, located upon an elevated site, though not so elevated as our own State Capitol. The San Francisco Cluh. 191 It occupies the centre of a building block, and is surrounded, upon the street level, by a stone coping upon three sides, that rounds toward the corner angles, and terminated by fanciful stone posts, separated sufficiently from each other to admit a passage- way between them of an entrance upon a series of flights of steps of six and eight steps each, and separated by broad landings, somewhat like the ascent to the Capitol at Harrisburg, from the northwest and southeast upon Third and Fourth streets, respec- tively. The style is Gothic— the front and end facades being substantially of the same ornate designs. The main central tower consists of two sections— the lower section being square and of battlemented cornice, with the corner supports cone- roofed. The upper section of the tower is octagonal and also cone-roofed. The combs of the roofs of the wings of the build- ing running at right angles to the transepts of the ground plan have also centrally located round towers, terminating in orna- mental finials. Upon the whole, the binlding is one of which the city may well be proud, both in design and apparent com- pleteness of finish. We would have been pleased to have seen its inner design and appointments, but time is rushing and we must move on. The State Normal School, erected also upon an elevated site, presents a very prepossessing appearance, and consists of a cen- tral building, w^ith its round tower cone-roofed corner, and its two wings, with front projections, and separated rearwardly from the centre by ample courts. The buildings, being comparatively new, have not yet had time to culture its grounds with the luxuri- ance that it wall no doubt attain in due time. The Woman's Club House is said to be one of the most perfect specimens of the Spanish- American style of architecture in the State. Its arched arcade surrounds three sides of the building. But further reference to specialties in this line must give way to the general effect of the associated buildings upon the chief thoroughfares as we look down the same and grasp the view as a w-hole. To commence with Spring street, earlier known by its Spanish name of Primavera, we have the principal business street. If we were not conscious that we were upon the Pacific 193 The Pilgrimage of coast, we might easily conclude, as we stand upon our view-point, looking north from First street and also south, that we were in the business centre of one of our most populous eastern cities — the lofty buildings, imposing fronts and attractive show win- dows would heighten the illusion, while the crowds upon the sidewalks seem to increase as the day advances. The next street in importance in like connection north from Fourth street, is Broadway, that is a good second, and, in some respects, rivals Spring street very closely. The cross streets of Third and Fourth, are also much patronized by the bargain hunters. Thus, a volume might be written in description of the architectural exhibits of the city, but other objects demand our attention, and, therefore, we must conclude further attempts in this line. o o o The San Francisco Club. 193 CHAPTER XXVII. A TRIP TO THE ENVIEONS— THE OSTEICH FARM. The meridian hour now warns us of the flight of time, and we conclude that we must hasten our steps if we would visit other more distant points, and, therefore, decide upon Pasadena and the intermediate territory particularly known as the Canton Ostrich Farm. Upon arriving at the entrance of the same, we found ourselves entirely unprepared for the sight of the beauti- ful little park, through which the pathway leads to the exhibit building, from which entrance to the farm, so-called, is had. Palms of the different varieties, box and flowering plants, border the serpentine walks and circles ornamenting the gently rising terraces that parallel the front of the said building. Entering the same, we are immediately prepossessed by the tasteful dis- play of plumes and boas that fascinate the eyes of the ladies, and, also, of course, of such Knights whose plumes are thrown into the shade in contrast with the broad flowing specimens that here are displayed as products of the farm. Feather tipped fans, photos and other varieties of curios, in addition to the staples of the exliibit occupy the attention, and whet the appetite for the living curios within the enclosure a few steps beyond. Upon the Ladies having exhausted their budget of questions, and promised themselves to tarry awhile longer upon their exit, we paid the accustomed fee of twenty-five cents, and were guided through another enclosed park of live oaks and other ornamental shade trees, indigenous to this locality, around the aviary and neath bowers of trailing vines, to the corrals beyond. Hence, as we approach the last-named, the first objects that attract us are the long, vertically extended necks of the birds, that protrude upward like so many bare stakes — the apparent absence of plumage from their necks cause the latter to appear like so many saplings divested of their bark, and terminating in a gnarled top or knob. But these stakes, beginning all to be in motion, and apparently to be as desirous of scanning the arrivals with as 13 194 The Pilgrimage of much curiosity as possess the latter to view the odd bipeds before us. There were some seventy-five or more in the flock, and, moving around freely among each other upon apparent good terms with all. We were, from the first, cautioned against coming too near the enclosure and becoming too familiar with the occupants, even though they appear never so indifferent. The main reason allegd for caution was that, being so omniver- ous, they might suddenly divest a visitor of his spectacles, breast- pin, or watch and chain and swallow them or other similar trinkets on sight, and apparently without any discomfort to the feathered epicure. The truth of this propensity was tested in our presence in con- firmation of the assertion, at least in the case of the ostrich, that there is no universal standard of taste {nil de gustibus dis- piitandum) and as a proof of its voracity, by the tossing of an orange into their midst and observing the emulation of the entire flock to get it, though, in the end, showing apparently no enmity against the successful one. Their want of the faculty of taste was proven by the fact that before swallowing they make no effort to test the flavor, say of fruit or other edible, by squeez- ing the same with their strong bills, but they gulp the same down whole, and one can see by the distension of the neck the downward passage of the said orange or apple, and, as often upon the side of the neck as in front, as if the gullet extended all around the bone of the neck. The duck-like bill and flat, receding heads, confirm, in appearance, the statement of their keeper that they had no brains, and, hence, of very low order of intelligence. They apparently show no affection for their young or for their keeper, and, therefore, as he said, of treacher- ous disposition. After being hatched, the fledglings are taken away and placed in a separate enclosure, without apparently being missed by the mother. And yet, in apparent contradiction to this want, the birds mate, and, upon the selection of partners, the preference of each for the other is not for a season but for life, and when the mating is consummated, the couple are re- moved from the general flock, and assigned a separate corral, where they commence house-keeping in due form. When the The San Francisco Club. 195 female has deposited her quota of eggs, in a depression crudely hollowed out in the loose earth, she alternates with the male in sitting upon the same during the period of incubation. By in- stinct the femals sits upon her eggs generally during the day, for the reason, it is said, that, being grey in color, she resembles more nearly that of the ground and, therefore, the mother and her eggs are less readily discovered by the despoiler, and, for the same reason, the male being black, is not easily discoverable at night. The bulletin boards attached to each enclosure, gives to some of the older representatives of the flock distinguished names, as those of Gen'l Grant, Pres. McKinley and J. Pierpont Morgan. One of these so celebrated birds, viz, McKinley, if the writer recalls the name correctly, in a fit of anger, quarreled with his wife and finally kicked her to death. Being a teetotaler, so far as we could learn, we could not understand why this tragedy should have transpired — such finales being generally the result of tarrying too long at the wine. This fact did not, how- ever, seem to affect his standing in the ostrich community, for the reason that he was allowed to court and adopt another com- panion, and peace seems once more to reign in the family, even though there is no substantial assurance that he will not again "go on a tear," and the said community will again have it demonstrated to them that "prohibition does not prohibit," even though the proprietor was warned to keep only such keepers on guard as will enforce the rules of the corral. From the sequel, therefore, we cannot but conclude that he had been living a double life, and, hence, in reality, was a "soak," sailing under false colors. Turning, then, from the unpunished culprit's enclosure, we see a dozen or more of the young fledglings of about four days old, that, in body, were of the size of our domestic hen, though connected with the ground by longer legs. In color, they were somewhat like that of the breast of the partridge. We were told that their first food is that of gravel, of which we have no doubt, from the fact that the sustenance supplied in the egg during the incubating stage contains all the prime essentials of life, except that of gravel, or the grinding material of subsequent 196 The Pilgrimage of digestion. The staple food of the adults appeared to be that of finely cut hay, mixed with bran and water, deposited in troughs. In drinking, their habit differs from that of other fowl, so far as we have noticed in that they take in a number of mouthsful before lifting the head, that gravity may complete the act. We saw no one attempt to ride astraddle upon the back of any of the birds, though we saw cards illustrating this feat. Upon asking one of the keepers about being familiar with any of them, lie replied that they were so treacherous, that upon a sudden freak they could kill a person in short order by the violent kicks of their three-toed feet, that would rip a person's clothing like a knife. Hence, our prudence had respect to the fence of their enclosure. The present flock of about 200 are the descendants of imported birds — there being now but two natives of Africa in the corrals. These importations are necessary from time to time to prevent the strain from degeneration. Before the method of plucking the plumes was explained, we were under the impression that it was a painful and cruel operation. We were told, however, that, being blindfolded and overpowered, the feathers were cut off at short distances from the surface of the flesh, that the act was painless, and that, in time, the ostrich sheds the stumps as naturally as it would have the plumes, had they not been previously so taken. Those having charge, say ihat the domestication of the ostrich, as here practiced, has both improved the stock and also the grade of the plumage over the imported article, in consequence of the careful feeding and the congenial climatic conditions of the locality. As there were no experts in this line among us, we could not dispute the claims of the propagators of the industry. Upon a comparison of the prices with those of our home market, some of the Ladies said that the Cawstou plumes were more expensive, though we observed, from the price-list furnished some of them, that the opposite is the case when the quality of the goods is taken into consideration. The specimens of Sir Knight plumes were very attractive, we had to admit. The writer does not know whether any of the members of the Club bought or not, or whether the price was the consideration in the case. The San Francisco Club. 197 TO PASADENA. Having now attained the above and additional information, at first hands, we were content to withdraw and continue our route to Pasadena. Upon arriving at the entrance of the im- proved portion of the city so-named, the first building that at- tracted special notice was Hotel Eaymond, situated upon a beau- tiful eminence of Eaymond Park, overlooking the Park in the foreground — the city in near proximity and the San Gabriel Valley and the horizon limit of Sierra iladras beyond. The original hotel of the same name was burned some years since, but the present structure was rebuilt upon the original ' site some two years since, more beautiful than ever. Having much larger grounds than any of its rivals, its capabilities of ornamentation, of environment will always give it an advantage upon the part of those that have decided preference for the scenic, as well as for domiciliary elegance. Although its park is, for the most part, comparatively young in its growth of ornamental shade trees and floral accompaniments, their present perfection go far to demonstrate what the future has in store for a proprietorship that for more than a score of years was prominent in the tourist world, and a close observer of the demands of that department of society. And, hence, with the possession of abundance of capital that is being utilized in such ventures with the certainty of abundant returns, this hostelry must, from the nature of the case, stand among the first, if not be pre-eminent in the locality. OTHER HOTELS. The colossal hostelry, known as Green Hotel, confronts us, about a fourth of a mile farther beyond the Eaymond, that, in its internal appointments, is said to rival the most celebrated in the land. As, however, we did not take the time to inspect the same personally, we cannot be responsible for the statement. In exterior appearance, we cannot deny that it is very prepossessing in its resemblance, both in color and in the material covering its walls (which are of the finest finish in troweled cement), and in its tiled roofing, like the Missionary style that is so popular in Southern California. Hence, in its internal appointments we 198 The Pilgrimage of may justly infer that they are of a proportionate scale. More- over, so great has been the demand for first-class entertainment that, notwithstanding the rivalry of other hotels, Green has been doubled in size within the past five years. Its cost to date, we have learned, has been $900,000, and that another large extension is to be added, preparatory to the coming season. The large hotel — The Maryland — with accommodations for 175 guests, has been built within the past year, and is modern in all its appointments. Its outer wall-covering, like that of The Eaymond, is of the best troweled stucco, and is white — which color here competes successfully with the yellow. It is well patronized. The Hotel la Pintoresca, on Washington street, has also a beautiful site, and is both faced along its curb line by large flourishing palms, but also within at artistic points upon its well-kept lawn, which is separated from the sidewalk in front by a smoothly-clipped hedge. It differs from the Maryland in that its structure is more compact and massive in appear- ance, while the former has front projecting wings, separated by a central court, through which, by a long porte couchere-like gallery, the main entrance is found to the transverse central building, connecting the two wings, in the angles of which are located square towers, surmounted by balustraded outlooks, cov- ered by square pyramidal roofs — the central connecting building being similarly surmounted and ornamented by a gallery con- necting the two towers — the whole being covered by deep pro- jecting bungalow eaves and shallow roof. The La Pintoresca's front, however, is continuous, being relieved only by the central slightly projecting square tower, constituting the main entrance, and one cone-roofed round tower upon the corner of the left wing. Both are four stories high, and appear, in the aggregate, capable of entertaining about the same number of guests. The Hotels Guirnalda, La Casa Grande and The Spalding are all located upon East Colorado street, and though not near so large as the aforementioned, are able to accommodate, judging from appearances, at least fifty guests each. They are all of attractive architectural finish, though of entirely different styles, The San Francisco Club. 199 varying from the Mission to the Gothic and the Bungalow, and surrounded by open lawns, beautified by colossal sago palms, pepper trees, and ornamental shrubbery, and such flowering plants as are a specialty in this locality. The Mira Monte, on South Euclid avenue, and The El Morera, on North Euclid avenue, are each smaller than the last three aforesaid, and are of less ornate finish and elegance of lawn environment, but they are roomy, well furnished and of fault- less cuisine for the accommodation of tbout twenty-five guests. Of the latter, we speak from personal experience, having en- joyed its hospitalities with four other Sir Knights and the Ladies during our exploitations of the city. Besides these, there are a number of private boarding houses that have also well-kept lawns and parterres, and located in neighborhoods ever emulous to excel in securing the effects of expert gardening, and many of these are especially equipped for the entertainment of small families of more moderate means, or for single guests and others that desire such accommodations, with the accom- paniments of home life, if such are preferred, and we learn that these also have a good patronage. It is thus seen that the city is well equipped to meet all the requirements of the many visitors that annually pay their tribute to the Crown City, so named from its commanding posi- tion upon the crown of San Gabriel Valley — the name Pasa- dena, being of Spanish origin and signifying "The Gate of Eden." The mesa, as it is called, or high, flat table-land upon which the city is located is bounded upon its northeastern and eastern side by the comparatively steep Sierra Madras, and is, therefore, protected from the winds and cold of the region be- yond the range, while at the same time enjoying the breezes from the south and west that are so delightful during the seasons that are elsewhere oppressed by the extremes of heat and cold. The mean temperature of the locality is said not to vary much from 60 degrees, and the difference between the winter and summer temperature is about 18 degrees. Also, at a tempera- ture of 90 degrees of the warmest days the humidity is less than 40 per cent., and the great dryness thus indicated of the climate 200 The Pilgnmage of imparts an agreeableness of sensation that is unrivaled. These facts have no doubt contributed to the rapid growth of the city to a present population of 15,000 upon a spot that, twenty- five years ago, was a sheep pasture, and, therefore, the transi- tion to the realities of to-day, as in evidence in the beautiful and luxuriant homes that look out from sylvan retreats upon its broad avenues and embowered sidewalks, is a matter of as- tonishment as well as of admiration. But while so many in- ducements for investment have appealed to the wealthy, there are many beautiful homes that are the property of the tenants of but moderate resources. Therefore, while the assessed valua- tion of the city is something in excess of $10,000,000, the city tax rate is but 1 55-100 per cent., while, at the same time, the public benefits of education and sanitation are in a high degree satis- factory. The deposits of its five banks, at the beginning of the year, was $4,000,000 in round numbers. It has also its own loan and building association. The city has also upwards of eighty miles of streets, about twenty miles of street railway and fifty miles of paved sidewalks. It has forty miles of sewers, that are being constantly extended, while finding an outlet some six miles from the city, and there profitably utilized. Pure mountain water is abundantly piped to all parts of the city, and the service of electric light, gas and telephones are "on tap'' for all who may apply. Two daily and two weekly news- papers are published, and mechanics and artisans find employ- ment nearly the year round at good wages. The abundant fruit- age of the surrounding valley, in its season, meets every demand, and is almost bewildering on account of its very variety. Of the small fruits, the market is supplied the most of the year, and fresh vegetables at all times. Therefore, upon these grounds among many others that may be adduced, we may readily understand the impelling motive that has made Pasadena the centre of so much interest to the impressible, and why wealth has lavished its contributions so lavishly upon house and home, that would require a volume to justly describe, as the basis of admiration to the visitor, and the ground of allegiance of the sojourner. Tlie San Francisco Club. 201 CHAPTER XXVIII. EETUEX TO LOS ANGELES. The rapid approach of evening prevents a further extension of our tour of inspection of the city, that we may be able to give a desired special attention to the exclusively residential section^ and, therefore, we were obliged to call a halt for the day. We, therefore, without further delay, take the short line trolley to Los Angeles, and in about thirty minutes we arrive at the Union Station, and with due expedition seek our quarters on board the special. Dinner being duly "called," we are not "slow" in satisfying the cravings of a good appetite ; and after discussing, with com- mendable zeal, the provisions of the menu, we inquire if there were any special arrangements made for the evening. We were, therefore, pleased to learn, with our associate members of the Club, that in anticipation of an influx of visiting Knights to Los Angeles en route for San Francisco, the resident Knights had arranged to have receptions (k) nightly at their Temple so long as their visitors might remain in the city. In glad ap- preciation, therefore, of the courtesy it was proposed that as many of us as possible avail ourselves of the privilege, and repair thitherward, informally at least, in such groups as could be improvised. The first day's experiences in the city and environment had been, however, so exacting upon the strength of many, particu- larly of the ladies, that comparatively few of them felt competent to undergo the exertion requisite to enable them to sustain the honors of our representation. The writer and several of the more stalwart of the chivalry concluded that the opportunity of physical exercise by walking to the Temple, some eight blocks distant, should not be ignored, and, hence, to suggest was but to execute the movement. Upon our arrival thitherward, we found the Temple bril- 202 The Pilgiimage of liantly lighted and tastefully decorated by appropriate emblems of the Order; and a commendable assemblage of the Knights of the city, with their Ladies, in attendance to receive and en- tertain all comers. In addition to the properties of the recep- tion rooms, there was a banqueting room at the rear of the same, which, for the time being, was utilized by those that de- sired to indulge in the diversions of the "light fantastic," while music was discoursed in appropriate measures, or in the intervals for the delectation of all, whether of Terpsichorean tastes or otherwise. Hence, those of us that participated in the appoint- ments of the reception pronounced the same a decided success, both from a social and an aesthetical standpoint, and as a good preface of more to follow. Moreover, as a well-timed finale of the social amenities of the occasion, light refreshments of fruit, cake, lemonade and ice cream refreshed the participants, preparatory to our separation for the evening, with the explicit announcement of the au revoirs. Having thus improved the interval of an hour or two, our delegation dropped out in little groups, and wended their way through the illuminated streets, absorbing, as they passed, the incidents of the way, even to the very portals of the railway station. Again, within the precincts of the Special, we report to the laggards our experiences of their lost opportunity, and how fortune always favors those who dare to brave the emer- gency. Therefore, upon the penitent promising that they would not again be derelict, but that they would assuredly participate upon the following evening in the social and gastronomic di- vertisements of the Temple, they were freely forgiven, and re- stored to the esteem of those who had already taken time by the forelock. With this restoration of the extente cordiale, modus vivendi, et al., we "turned in," and were soon oblivious of every- thing that could mar our somnolent serenity. ANOTHER OUTING. The early morning of the 3d found the little groups, after the routine of the successive "calls," improvising their go-as-you- please plans, with reference to unifying as many as possible upon The San Francisco Club. 203 a common program. Thereupon, the greater portion decided to patronize the "Observation Trolley," to reconnoitre the territory to the south and east of the city, and others to carry out more specific plans in other directions. Hence, Sir Knight Wagner piloted one group to Santa Monica and Hollywood, and^the writer accompanied Sir Knights Warren and Forney, with their Ladies, to explore San Gabriel Valley, via Pasadena, and other intermediate points. Reaching the Cawston Ostrich Farm, the writer, having visited the same the day previous, was content to have his companions enjoy the same in its novelty, as he had done as stated, but as he has detailed the observations of said visit, and, upon com- parison, found that their's was similar, it will suffice, upon their endorsement, to adopt the same as our common experience. Therefore, with this explanation, we pass on to the further evo- lution of our movements. Arriving at Pasadena, we first take occasion to visit the Ma- sonic Temple, and participate in the welcome extended of open- house to all visitors of the Order. Here, also, we were very cour- teously received, and made some very pleasant acquaintances. Among others, we are happy to make special reference to Sir Knight John McDonald, a former citizen of our home State, but of late years a resident and prominent citizen of Pasadena! He was particularly knightly in giving us all the information at his command concerning the city and its environs, and, in token of his knightly good will presented each of the couples and the writer with a souvenir book of views of the public build- ings of the city and some of the more ornate of the private resi- dences. Learning of our further plans, he selected two teams for us, having a care that the drivers of the same should be old residenters of the city and whom he knew to be thoroughly acquainted with the city and country that we were desirous of traversing. The sequel, we think, will prove the wisdom of his selection. SAN GABRIEL VALLEY. Passing beyond the built-up limits of Pasadena, we were soon 204 The Pilgrimage of among the groves, orchard? and vineyards of the Mesa. The first large grove of special note was one of English walnuts, that, judging from the size and vigorous growth of the trees, was ap- parently a source of considerable income to its proprietor. These trees attain a growth as vigorous as that of our native walnut in size and height, but in full rounded development are far more beautiful and prolific. The nuts, when ripe, are gathered and spread upon large trays, mounted upon short stakes or legs, ex- posed to the sun for the evaporation of the hull sap and for sorting out the defective ones. When fully cured, they are then bagged for market. To get some adequate idea of the value of the nut production of the seven southern counties, of which Los Angeles is one, the report of the Chamber of Com- merce estimates the same, in its last yearly report, as valued at $1,700,000. Passing beyond, we next enter into the grape region, with its vine-laden fruitage, that astonished us with their luxuriance. Vineyards from 10 to 100 acres were numerous, but the largest that we passed through contained 1,000 acres. The plump, winning perfection of the berries, without apparently any defective ones in a perfectly formed cluster, the size of the latter, and the exquisite flavor of the fruit surpassed any previous experience of our lives. Passing along through this 1,000-acre tract, the fruit looked so inviting that we plucked a cluster at random from a variety that our chaperon said would be cured for raisins. Though the Malaga is said to be the variety usually cured for raisins, yet the variety here mentioned was not the Malaga, though we cannot now recall the variety by name — the berries being of a shade lighter than the Concord. Not being an expert viticulturist or botanist, it is said that even Jupiter sometimes nods, and, therefore, much more should we. At all events, the flavor excelled that of any that we think we ever before tasted. The cluster that we plucked was at least ten inches long, and three inches wide or in diameter at the stem end, there being not an imperfect berry in the whole. We attempted to dispose of the whole, but a one-third satisfied us. The titillations of the flavor still linger upon our palate, and will not subside at will. That the experience of all of us was The San Francisco Club. 205 identical is proven by the fact that our hands and other re- ceptacles were laden with the luscious fruit, as if resolved that "'lengthened sweetness should be as long drawn out" as possible. The flourishing orchards of lemons, dressed in their dark green waxen leaves, and their pendant fruit of a lighter shade, showed thrift and the promise of a good harvest in the near future. The oranges, also, were not yet sufficiently far adavanced to pluck, but, like "golden lamps of pensile fruit," they illuminated the embowering branches of the parent tree as harbingers of a like prolific harvest about to gladden the culturist, and contribute their luscious burden to the willing appetite of the epicure. One or more trees, however, confronted us during our wanderings, laden with ripened fruit, and these naturally paid tribute to the explorers of this, to them, a new territor}^ by right of discovery. Continuing our drive toward the village of Sierra Madre, our course bore away to the left thereof, toward the foothills of the mountain escarpment, and, ascending the same, we reach a plateau at a considerable elevation, upon the side thereof. Driv- ing out upon the plateau, we dismount from our carriages and walk out upon the brow of the cliff over-looking the valley, and take in the magnificent view afforded of the underlying groves of varied hues, the broad vineyards and smiling fields, and, in the near foreground, the sanitary villa of Sierra Madre — all deluged in the pelucid atmosphere of a golden afternoon sun. In close proximity to the sanitarium we see the white tents of the health seekers, peeping out from their shady retreats, in evidence that the inspiring environment has also its therapeutic as well as visional attractions. When, therefore, it is recalled that the lowest temperature reached in this latitude in twenty years has been but twenty-eight degrees, and that the combined times during this period at which the temperature fell below freezing point was only six months, it is readily seen at what long intervals these cold periods must have occurred, and also how short their continuance must have been. And, then, also, it is usual that when such low temperature does transpire, it is in the early hours of the morning, when those of impaired health 206 The Pilgrimage of are supposed to be under the protection of warm bed-clothing, and liability to exposure is reduced to a minimum. And now, as we observe, from our outlook, the wide stretches of orange groves, we readily agree with the statement that these foothills are the leading centre of the orange culture, and for the county at large it is the most important horticultural pro- duct. At the same time the lemon is extensively cultivated in the valley, in addition to other fruit products, among which the Chamber of Commerce enumerate the prune, fig, olive, apri- cot, peach, pear, berries, almonds and walnuts — different sec- tions making a specialty of one or more of these products. The shipments of citrus fruits, which it is recalled in the generic name for the orange, lemon, lime, citron and pomela (grape- fruit), from Southern California during the past year was 27,500 car-loads, of which by far the largest part was from Los Angeles County — the total value thereof from the seven counties, as per the returns of the Chamber of Commerce of Los Angeles being, in round numbers, $11,000,000. THE EETUEN OBSERVATIONS. Having now terminated our view from the stand-point of the plateau, we return to our carriages, descend the foothill and again trace our way through vineyards and orange groves by another route. In passing through the latter we saw the best practical illustration of how the water is distributed to the trees under the system of irrigation. The trees being planted in rows, either parallel to each other, or diverging from points in a line, and preferably upon at least a gentle slope — each tree is surrounded by a depression of the surface like a saucer — the tree being in the centre — a shallow sluice connecting each depression in line with the one next above it. The water is then turned into the head depression, and the same is filled until it reaches the mouth of the sluice, when the surplus water passes through the same into the second depression, and through its sluice to the third and thence continuously until the depressions have all been filled, when the water is turned off from that row into a second one, which is similarly treated, and The San Francisco Cluh. 207 then a third row and thence continuously until the whole orchard has been irrigated. This method is called the checking system, and is said to be so much more efficient than the broad flush that the same amount of water will irrigate seventy-five acres by the former method, that will be required by the latter to irri- gate sixty acres. The process needs to be repeated monthly, if the drought be protracted during the dry season. In those parts of the table land or Mesa of the valley that are accessible to the numerous canons that invade the Sierra, and through the most of which flow intermittent or unfailing streams, the supply of water may be readily obtained direct, and the surplus of water, after present need is met, may be di- verted into storage reservoirs, and from thence drawn for irri- gating when the streams are low — said reservoir belonging either to the proprietor of the lands to be irrigated, or, its supply being held to be farmed out to the tenants of lands within a district that may be reached by the said supply. In many parts, how- ever, of Southern California, the supply of rainfall during the year is too limited to span over the entire dry season, and, there- fore, millions of acres that are naturally as good as the above more favorably situated for irrigation, will necessarily remain uncultured, unless some other mode of supply can be discovered or utilized. Hence, as one of the methods to meet this w^ant, the experiment of artesian wells was resorted to. As the result, therefore, of boring, it was happily discovered that there was a large section of the State having such underlying reservoirs that could be tapped for surface supplies ; and by further tests the so-called "artesian belts" have been located and traced. One of these belts extends from Stockton, northeast of San Francisco, to Caliente, a distance of 250 miles southward. The depths to be bored varies from 250 feet to 700 feet, and the average well will irrigate 150 acres of land. And, by the use of storage reservoirs, this capacity of well is greatly increased. Moreover, by the discovery of cheap oil fuel the power for pump- ing has been much cheapened, where this method has to be re- sorted to, to supplement the natural flow. As early as 1882, 208 The Pilgrimage of twelve artesian wells were bored near Caliente, which is about seventy-five miles north of Los Angeles, and their daily output is about 1,500,000 gallons. But while, in many of the most productive parts of the State, particularly in the case of citrus and deciduous fruits, irriga- tion is an essential, yet in other parts the product of the soil is greatly increased by supplementing the natural moisture thereof by an artificial supply of water. This is the case also in the culture of grain and vegetables, which is greatly accelerated in quality and supply by this reinforcement. The pumping is usually necessary to secure a sufficient fall to do the work more expeditiously. It has been estimated that there are some 5,000 wells in the State, furnishing these addi- tional supplies. Another advantage attained by the said reinforcement is sho^vn in the case where one crop has been harvested from unirrigated land, and another crop immediately succeed in consequence of irrigation, and thus from two to three crops are harvested during a season instead of one. Hence, we have another index of the value of irrigation in the measure of the price of land. The best unirrigated land adapted to the production of grain and deciduous fruits will cost from $30 to $100 per acre, while the irrigated will cost from $300 to $300 for the culture of citrus fruits in connection with an ample water right. It is, therefore, readily seen that irrigated land at $250 per acre is cheaper than $30 of the unirrigated for grain purposes, with the risk of an entire failure under a protracted drouth that is always immi- nent. It is said that there are orange groves in the State that will pay a good interest on the land at $2,500 per acre. Of course, it has required much labor and capital to bring these orchards to their present high state of productiveness. The late Mr. Fordhoff, in speaking of the orange culture in California, says that — "The seedling orange-tree bears at twelve years from the planting — an average of one thousand marketable oranges; and that he knew of a tree at Eiverside which bore, at thirteen years, two thousand two hundred and fifty oranges, which brought the owner seventy-four dollars. The following The San Francisco Club. 309 5'ear the same tree bore two thousand and fifty." He adds further, that "growers plant from 80 to 100 trees per acre, and, therefore, it is easy to see that the profits of a bearing orchard, even at the lowest prices, are very great. Eight trees, bearing 1,000 oranges each, sold at $10 per 1,000, would yield a gross return of $800. One man can cultivate, irrigate, prune and care for twenty acres of any of the citrus fruits, and the picking and boxing cost no more than one dollar and fifty cents per 1,000. But, at fifteen years old, the seedling trees bear two thousand oranges each, and the average price is eight dollars per thou- sand. One of the shrewdest growers at Riverside said, that, *at half a cent a piece, the orange crop would still remain the most profitable a man can grow' — a statement that the above facts will fully sustain." When, then, we consider the immence expansion of fruit-grow- ing only, primarily, for instance in the case of the orange cul- ture, from the little groves nurtured precariously in only a few localities comparatively, that could rely upon anything of a permanent suppl}' of moisture, and then turn to the forests of orchards — the wildernesses of fruit-bearing trees of to-day (the transportation of whose products has also correspondingly ex- panded the railway system of the land) — from this standpoint we may have some adequate apprehension of the immense benefit that irrigation has done for the State, even though the system be yet only in its infancy. It may, therefore, be proper in this connection to recall what has been the amount of the shipments reported for the past year by the Southern Pacific Railroad Com- in its prospectus of the resources of the State for the benefit of its patrons. Hence, we have the shipments of dried fruits, other than those of prunes and raisins, amounting to 57,180 tons — those of prunes being 197,000,000 pounds, and those of raisins 108,000,000 pounds, with 857 car-loads of walnuts of twelve tons each, and 235 car-loads of almonds. Therefore, with such enhanced returns, and these, too, only in part from the soil, how could it be otherwise but that land should advance from the figures of the Irvine to those of to-day. 14 210 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXIX. LUCKY BALDWIN IIA^CH. After passing- tho orniigo grove of which we have spoken as ready for the irrigating stream, we came into the vicinity, and passed along the margin oU (lie eelebratetl property known as "Lucky" Baldwin's Ranch, which lies about iifteen miles north- cast of Los Angeles. The said Baldwin made much of his money originally in the celebrated Comstock Silver Mines, and as tliat yielded fabidous dividends, when in its prime state of j)roduction, the amount rcceivctl by him therefrom must have been a considerable sum; Ibat is. taking it for granted that he was a large stockbolder. The output of the Comstock lode, the writer remembers to have reail, anmunted, in round numbers, to $lG,000,»)Od, wlien tlie same reaeluHl its maximum in ISlUi. From iln> view wo hail of his grountls, with its nuignilicent growth of live-oaks that stand so se]iarated from each other as to admit ol' tbeir attaining a full development, it reminds one more of a park than of a ranch, 'riunigb ]>opularly called a ranch, it is really a farm, of which (be ranch specialties are notbing more tban a department. This trail is a ])art of the great Santa Anita ranch, of the earlier Spanish-American days. As we were not of the party of the Club who nuule a special visit to tbe rancb, we cannot partiiulari/.e of its present-day products, and, therefore, will be obliged to ipiote from one who was of said ]iarty, viz, Sir Knight Maeklin, Mho reports that there are. within tbe bounds of tlie ranch, "700 acres of oranges, 100 acres of lemons, 100 acres of olives, 500 of grapes and '25,000 acres of farndand. On this ranch there are also 'OO.OOO sheep." We wiudd. therefore, infer that there are a{iproximately about .'jO.OOO acres in the tract, and, hence, at present day's ])rices the investment nuiy justly be considered a valuable one. And yet, it must be recalled (hat when the lands of the valley were used only for ranch pur])oses the land was cheap, and, heiu'C, the first The tSan Fnmvi^co (Jlub. 211 cost to "Lucky" r>iil(l\viii did not involves j)r()l)al)ly a lurf^c out- lay of luoiicy. U])on this phase of the matter we may be able to throw some lif^ht. We recall to have read an account of the (h-atb, laic in llic SO's, of a certain James Irvine, of San Fran- cisco, and of his haviiij;- beciueathed to his son, with other prop- erty, a tra(;t of land in one body in Los Angeles ('ounty, con- sistinjif of 1H0,(»(H) acres. This lar{i,v, domain, Mr. Irvine bought jointly with another man in 1857, paying at the rate of 37.5 cents per acre. In 1875 Mr. Irvine bought out his partner for $J35(),0()(). He was afterwards, a short time before his death, olTered $1,()0(),0()() cash for the proj)erty. yVt that time an esti- mate of (he value of the same was nuide, assigning to 20,000 acres of valley land llial of $!(»(» per acre, or $3,000,000 for the same. Some small farms were sold off from the inu-i at this ligure. The value of the entin; original track was estimated to be worlh .$ i,0()0,()(t(), ai actual cash value. Mr. Irvine still holds 110,000 acres Jiear Santa Ana, '5(),000 of which are annually planted in barley. Now, since it is known that Mr. Irvine, the son, still owns a tract to the south bordering on ihe Orange (!ounty line, it may he inferred that the P)aldwin IJanch may be a part of the original 180,()00-acre tract, and, if so, we may also inf(!r the cost, if purchas(Hl since th(! d(>ath of Mr. Lrvine, Sr. If, however, Mr. Baldwin ])urchased about the time that Mr. Irvine, Sr., became sole owner of his tract, then the cost of the Baldwin Kanch would have been about $10,000, and still he would be entitled to the name of "Lucky." TTTE WINERIES. After leaving the borders of the Baldwin Banch and the larger orange groves, we again enter tin; broad acres of the vine culture. Therefore, in our further progress toward Pasadena, we stopped at several wineries, and at the largest one visited, we saw the immense butts in which the wine is stored, undergoing the silent process of aging and awaiting a market. We were told by the superintendent that he had a million gallons thus stored, in- cluding those of all ages, so to speak. Some of these butts hold 212 The Pilgrimage of from ten to fourteen thousand gallons. We asked the superin- tendent if he had any unfermented wine on hand, as we would have liked to have tested its flavor, without its having undergone the process of blending, which has now become a fine art in the methods followed to get the bouquet that distinguishes the dift'er- ent kinds of marketable wine in imitation of the celebrated Euro- pean wines, and which elsewhere in the United States is attained by adulteration. We take it for granted that these manufac- turers have no need of adulterants, having, as they allege, so many different kinds of wine at their disposal that are pure, and, hence, retain tlieir natural aroma. It does not, however, neces- sarily follow that upon taking into consideration the many popu- lar foreign wines, that we have varieties enough to enable the vintner to secure by blending the exact aroma or bouquet that a customer demands, and this, too, without resorting to the use of adulterants.* We did not ,of course, enter into any such *As an evidence of the perfection to which the vintners of the State have carried the art of "blending." attention is called to the following report upon "Adulterated Wines," lately published for the benefit of the public, as prepared by the San Francisco Board of Health, affirming that they "procured a hundred samples of red wines from restaurants, wine dealers and manufacturers, and analyzed them. Forty-one samples were found to be adulterated with coal tar, salicylic acid, arsenic and other poisonous chemicals, etc." The Board of Health published names, ad- dresses and full particulars, and the local newspapers published the re- port, althovigh some of the best-known firms of the city are included in the list. It is, therefore, inferred if such were the results published from the analyses of red wines, no doubt a similar report would eventuate from a like thorough analysis of the champagnes and other white wines that are so industriously advertised for their purity and bouquet in compe- tition with the French imports that, in turn, are not exempt from the manipulations of the expert blender. Indeed, so conscienceless has the art of blending become that the ag- gregate amount of some species of wine sold (purporting to be the pure product of a particular brand imported) far exceeds the total manufacture in the entire country giving the name to the brand. This has been time and again proven by a comparison of the entire output — for instance that of "port" wine, so named from Oporto — the shipping port of the district producing that species of wine. The same allegation has also been made in the case of the French champagnes, whose char- acteristic, in addition to the bouquet, is that of their amber color, both of which are imitated by the dishonest dealer. The district of Marne is noted as that in which only the genuine French article is produced. The home demand, however, being great, the surplus for shipment is The San Francisco Cluh. 213 colloquy with the superintendent, either before or after his reply to our question. That we, however, did ask for unfermented wine, appeared to him, no doubt, judging from his looks, as "crankish," but soon recovering himself, he replied, that "he had some very good, and that it was twelve years old." Now, not knowing that there was any reason why such wine should be stored for any length of time, since aging is not a property of the unfermented article, so far as we know, it appeared evident that he wanted "to trick" us, and, therefore, when he handed us a wine-glass of the alleged unfermented, the writer caught the fumes, and, therefore, would none of it. Believing that "the ways that are dark, and the tricks that are vain" are all well known to the craft, and that "if the bark be peeled from one, it will always reveal the Turk," we were not surprised that even here the competitions of trade give ground for the suspicion that veracity is a commercial article. We had also another object in view in asking, supposing that it was probable that at that time the presses might be at work, and, therefore, we might see the crushing process in operation. This would have been a matter of gratification, having learned that by the improved methods of manufacture the wine presses of to-day will crush from eight to ten tons of grapes in an hour, although, upon the other hand, sorrow would have been felt to see that so much fruit was thereby more expeditiously converted into a beverage, the major part of which will, no doubt, be fermented. Not having, however, felt particularly interested in this branch of industry, we were not much disappointed in not having got much information from the superintendent concerning the va- rieties of wine and the quantities of each shipped to the East and to foreign lands. We were interested, however, to learn all we could about the culture and expansion of the same in the evolution of the grape as a fruit, both as now developed and not a moiety of the alleged genuine product guaranteed by the most high-toned dealers of this and other lands. Hence, away with the "chestnut" of the "pure wine" allegations of those that "tarry long at the cup," or advocate the "personal liberty" of those that indulge therein, even though the results thereof be never so hurtful to self, and, naturally, also to his loved ones. 214 The Pilgrimage of as capable of still further hybredation, the methods of its cul- ture, curing and the quantities shipped, that the same, in time, may reach every would-be consumer, and thereby divert the grower from the role of wine producer to that of shipper of the fruit in such quantities as that both the producer and the con- sumer may be the recipients of infinitely better results than can ever be attained by exploiting the wine trade. That these shipments have already been considerable may be inferred from statements already made and from the following facts. Hence, in passing, it is well to say that quite a crowd of visitors were at the winery while we were there, and business, as well as the extension of courtesies, appeared to be on a par. Therefore, the superintendent was not supposed to gush on us, or make exclusive propositions to initiate us into the mysteries of his art, or the modus operandi of his methods in keeping his pro- ducts before the public ; and, therefore, much less discourse upon the varieties of grapes within his purview, the sections of the district best suited to the same, the best for shipping, for raisins, etc., and, therefore, in default to compel us to fall back upon our own resources and gleanings. Hence, as ever, the writer will try to be equal to the emergency. VARIETIES OF GRAPE. Although it is said that there are some 200 varieties of the grape in existence, yet there are but about twenty that are prolific in the United States, and of these, eight varieties flourish to a greater or less extent in California. Of these eight, the Con- cord and the Isabella have been developed from the hardy north- ern fox grape, the Delaware is a hybrid and the Malaga is an importation from Spain. The remainder that give good returns in the order of their preference are the Hartford, Ives, Clinton, Brighton and Moore's Early. The first four are all great favor- ites upon the table — the Delaware, in its purplish-pink color and its lusciously sweet nectar taking the lead, and the Isabella and Concord following as good seconds, as many of the Knights and their Ladies will certify by grateful experience. The Malaga, though manufactured to a limited extent into wine, is the main The San Francisco Club. 215 variety for the production of the best quality of raisin, and Cali- fornia stands first in the world in the quality and size of its raisins. Twenty-five years ago, California did but little in raisin-making, except to dry a few raisin-grapes, and sell them for "dried grapes." But now, raisin making is one of the largest and one of the most profitable industries of California, and these are classed with the best in the New York and Boston markets. A late writer, in speaking of the grape culture in this State, says that "good land for raisin culture in Los Angeles County, though costing $125 per acre, can be cultivated profitably for this industry." He says, further, that "he was informed by a leading raisin-maker that a vineyard of the raisin-grape, irri- gated and under careful cultivation, will yield enough grapes the third year to pay all the expenses of running that year, and on the fourth year will yield a crop that will pay the whole cost of land, planting and culture up to that time, even where the land has cost $100 per acre. He claimed that raisins may be raised so as to pay one dollar per vine, or $550 per acre." A Boston raisin dealer, also quoted by said writer, declared that "as to the size of the raisins, they are larger than 90 per cent, of the imported fruit from the most celebrated growers of Europe. The color also is all 0. K., so far as the New England trade is concerned. Therefore, with but a little improvement, it will only be a matter of time when the California fruit will drive the foreign out of market, and the best brands will always be in demand, and, of course, bring higher prices." From this standpoint, we may, therefore, cite the more recent information that has come to us, that we are confident that will supply the data for the conclusion that the time is not far distant when it will be more profitable to dispose of the grapes direct, rather than convert them into wine, and thus prepare the way to the ultimate abandonment of the manufacture thereof. We, therefore, refresh our minds by turning to the report of the Chamber of Commerce, that gives the returns of the seven southern counties of the State, one of which is that of Los An- geles. Therefore, referring to the item of dried fruits, it is 216 The Pilgrimage of seen that the shipments of the same, including raisins, amounts to $2,300,000. Hence, upon the basis of the wine production of the entire state, and that of the entire raisin crop, we find the returns from raisins alone are, in round numbers, $600,000. Remembering, also, that the value of the fruit, in clusters, and retained for home consumption, we see that it exceeds consider- ably the combined figures of the wine and brandy, which are put at $580,000. Hence, we are satisfied to allow time to solve the problem, and upon an undisputed basis. It may, however, be asked — Why give so many particulars con- cerning suggested facts in addition to those that actually come within the range of our experiences? We can only reply that, since to the majority of us upon these occasions the environ- ment is entirely novel, as also the factors put under contribution to make what we see available in results, it is but natural that we should ask questions, and, being aware also that we, in turn, will be interrogated by our friends upon our return home con- cerning these very matters, their financial relations, and the outlook in these lines, it seems proper that we should keep our memories refreshed, and be ever upon the alert to absorb the facts of the occasion. Therefore, as intelligent observers, we are naturally desirous of learning all that the situation will supply, both for our own benefit and for the opportunity that may come to us of imparting information to others that may inquire specifically concerning these matters. The regret, then, is rather that opportunities for inquiry were not more amply upon sug- gestive lines, that some of the Club, no doubt, recall, and, there- fore, the suggestion to such is in order that they impart such in- formation to the rest of us that they may have gleaned from their standpoint. We will, nevertheless, take the liberty of calling upon them when the need arises, without further notice. One of these wineries that we visited during the afternoon was located upon the edge of a pomegranate grove, the trees of which were of the size of our average orchard apple tree. We plucked specimens of the fruit of about the size of our average Wine-sap apple, bringing one away with us. It will be recalled that the pomegranate, with its hard, yellowish-red rind, and its The San Francisco Club. 217 numerous enclosed sacs of seeds seems, at first, to be uninviting, and yet, upon test, the pinkish pulp that surrounds each seed is very juicy, of an agreeable flavor, and when the fruit is fully ripe, furnishes as much Juice as the average lemon, and it is utilized, as in the case of the latter, to supply a very refreshing drink. Its native habitat is Western Asia and Northern Africa, but from the fact that it can here be propagated in perfection, is another proof of the great versatility of the California soil and climate. Thence, as we pass along, the appropriateness to Pasadena of the name of "Orchard City" becomes more and more ap- parent, as we survey the great variety of its fruit, from the hardy ones of the north, with which we are all so familiar, to the semi-tropical and tropical, that have here been acclimated, and are now as prolific of permanent yields as those in part al- ready mentioned, viz, the orange, olive, lemon, lime, nectarine, custard-apple, guava, and others that may be considered as of the berry varieties that bewilder by their very multitude. o o o 218 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXX. PUBLIC AND PEIVATE BUILDINGS. And now, we are within tlie limits of Pasadena, and as the sun is still high it is proposed that we be driven through those sections in whicli we may view more minutely the churches, public buildings and private residences that we were not able to do upon the previous day, owing to the lateness of the hour thereof. We, therefore, first take in order the four principal ones, viz, Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal, First Prebysterian and First Universalist. The All Saints' Episcopal Church, situated on North Euclid avenue, with its one-story and high steep gable front, without tower, but relieved centrally above the base of the triangle by a bow-topped stained glass window, divided into three vertical sections by mouldings and of similar cornices, but separated from the upper arch by stained glass qiMtre- foils — the surface of the gable being finished in the half-timbered style, and the space between being filled in with fine white troweled stucco. And as a climax to complete the whole visual effect, the front entrance was flanked, and almost completely covered, by huge sago and fan palms, that towered above the cornices, and thus converted the whole into a fairy-like structure — the wood mouldings and stone base being stained in a brownish ashes-of-roses tint — a gem, indeed, in a green setting. METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHUECH. The M. E. Church, corner of Colorado street and Marengo avenue, is also an imposing group of stone buildings. A square massive tower occupies the head of the corner, which tapers above the cornice of the main building in a sharp pyramidal tower and terminates in an ornamental finial — the corners of the square base being adorned by fac simiJe towers of about one- third the height of the enclosed main tower. The main entrance The San Francisco Club. 219 facade flanking the tower upon the right, presents an apse-like gabled front in three divisions — the central one being that whose apex coincides with the comb termination of the roof of the main audience room — the other two divisions being blank gable walls above the base of their triangles, and each separated from the other by pilaster columns, which perform, at the same time, the function of door jambs for the three entrances to the vestibule, to which ascent from the pavement by a series of steps, whose curvature corresponds with that of the apse-shaped entrance front. And again, still further to the right, stands another square tower-like building, terminating in a battlemented-cornice and pierced by windows as if the same were the officiating min- ister's domicil. Again, the facade upon the avenue to the left of the corner tower shows three divisions — the first in order being a gothic front, with stained-glass central window of elabo- rate pattern of mouldings. Of the next two divisions of the facade, the first or central one of the three is the quadrant of a battlemented round tower, pierced with a door to which the ascent is by a series of steps of like curvature, and the third division of the facade is a true apse projecting outward to the building line, having oblong square windows in each of its two stories— its roof inclining inward from the eaves to a common comb or ridge, similar to a dormer window, and terminating in the slant of the roof of the transept at the left of the chancel Taken as a whole, independent of its environment, the assem- blage of parts constituting the edifice, made as fine an effect as any of that denomination that it has been the privilege of the writer to see in any of our cities of the East. Had time admitted of it, we would have liked to have seen its interior, which, we have no doubt, was equally elaborate in design and finish. THE FIRST PEESBYTERIAN CHURCH. The First Presbyterian Church, upon the corner of the same street and Worcester avenue, is even more ornate in exterior finish than the last named, besides having a most bewitching environment of concrete walks winding amid artistic lawns, 220 The Pilgrimage of and embowered by palms, evergreens and pepper-trees — the main facade of the building having upon its corner to the left of the main entrance a square tower, in general appearance like that of the M. E. Church, but of more elaborate design in its exterior finish, and flanked upon its left by a pagoda-like porta cochere; and upon the right by the broad gable front of the main audi- ence room, containing a highly ornamented stained glass rose window — the other corner of the facade being ornamented by a round cone-capped tower. The gable fronts of the transepts are also finished in corresponding good taste. THE FIRST UNIVEESALIST CHURCH. The First Universal Church, on JSTorth Raymond avenue, was even more unique in design than those of which we have spoken — the building being circular in general plan, but at the quad- rantal termini there are towers — the first, or main tower, being round and massive, and superficially relieved by horizontal band work and oblong square windows, with port-hole look-outs above the last tier of the latter. The oblong narrow arches of the next tier constitute the open work of the belfry, which is roofed by a graceful dome, which, in turn, is overtopped by a lantern finial. The remaining towers are square, terminat- ing in broad open work above the eaves of the main building, and are covered wath plain pyramidal roofs, having small dormer window at points in the centre of the triangular slants. Equi- distant between the towers of the front facade and above the eaves of the roof connecting the same, a massive dormer-like gable appears, whose ridge or comb engages the main roof at the central point of the slant of the latter, which, it is recalled, runs parallel with the street upon which the entrance to the main audience-room fronts. This church is also surrounded by palms of the varieties that here grow so vigorously, interspersed with flowering shrubbery that, in season, add beauty to the dignity of the sacred pile. These were the chief churches that we saw upon our route, though there are a dozen in all within the city limits that repre- sent an expenditure of $500,000 — an expenditure of money that The San Francisco Club. 221 is an additional evidence of the morality of the citizenship, in connection with their liberality in beautifying to so marked a degree their places of worship, as well as those of their homes. The Public Library is a most beautiful specimen of the gothic, or pointed style of architecture, and was built at a cost of $50,000, and contains 20,000 volumes. Its most prominent ex- terior feature is its neat round tower, that occupies the corner of the group of buildings, and fills the angle of its flanking sharp gable supports, which, in turn, adjoin square, front projecting annexes, pyramidal-roofed — the entrance to one of which is through a low, square, battlemented tower. The details of the artistic association of the parts of the group, in connection with the surrounding lawn, dotted here and there with stately palms, contributed to make the same the prettiest library build- ing that we remember to have seen in any community. The Throop Polytechnic Institute, as a co-ordinate education factor, also deserves at least a passing notice, in that it has the distinction of being the only completely equipped manual school upon the Pacific coast, and, hence, has, for ten years, contributed much in maintaining the reputation of Pasadena as the educational centre of Southern California. Its four buildings, ranging side by side, occupy a very eligible site of the block adjoining the Universalist Church, of which we have spoken, and educationally speaking, is divided into five depart- ments, under the supervision of twenty-five teachers, that are specialists, with a patronage of four hundred students. The $100,000 high school building, with its imposing facade of Ionic columns of its central main building, surmounted by a shallow dome, and its two square front projecting wings, and having ornamental central entrances corresponding in color with the white sub-base — the upper stories being of red brick. This, too, is a building that speaks well for the high ideals and good taste of the board of education. The Lincoln and Columbia Schools, in their broad, open-front plazas, and delightfully shading side groves and lawns, cannot but have a most elevating effect upon the minds of the youth educated under such favorable auspices. 222 The Pilgrimage of Its business blocks are of metropolitan proportions and state- liness of appearance. Its four banks are housed in buildings of appropriate designs, and of such general appearance as would imply a good patronage. In addition, its manufactories and canning establishments show also an aptitude for permanent investments that indicates a favorable outlook for the future stability of the city. And now that a partial notice has been made of the centres of interest that relate to the public and associate life of the citizens of Pasadena, as illustrated in public and trades build- ings, it seems proper that some attention should be shown to the home-life as also a most important factor in determining the sum total of the results of business prosperity. THE CITY VILLAS. But here, upon the very threshhold of our inquiry, the wealth of adornment lavished upon the villas and grounds of the repre- sentative residents, and the resourcefulness of taste exhibited therein, so pleasing in its richness of detail, that no word pic- ture of even the most gifted can give more than a faint con- ception of the reality thereof. At first sight one would suppose that if one residential place is described that would suffice for the whole, if sameness is to be avoided even in the statement of details. This, it is true, is an evident liability on account of the limitations of descriptive language, but not in the poverty of facts in connection with the variety of designs at the command of the architect and land- scape gardener, when called upon to embody a creation in ma- terial form. For, when it is recalled (to use mathematical terms) that the permutations and combinations at their com- mand are almost infinite, the experts in these departments find no difficulty in utilizing the elements at their disposal in secur- ing those associational effects that observation proves to be so fertile of results in this city. To enumerate, for instance, some of these resources of arboreal and floral variety in the various species of shade trees native and acclimated, such as those of the palm, the magnolia, century The San Francisco Club. 223 plants, fir, pine, cedar, eucalyptus, ancient cypress, live-oaks, pepper trees, blue gums, cork tree, rubber tree, yucca and other varieties of cacti, olive, fig, bananas, with the varieties of citrus trees thrown in here and there to enliven, by the associated brilliancy of their fruit the more sombre tints of their leaves, and then, in the intermediate spaces add the floral varieties of the perennial shrubbery and trailing vines, and the flowering plants, such as lilies, tube roses and carnation that here flourish by the acre, with lantanas one hundred feet in circumference, when it will be seen how inexhaustible are the means for beauti- fying lawn and home at will, with multitudinous varieties of effect. Then combine with the aforesaid the groupings as to relative position in triangles, diamonds, squares, polygons, stars, circles, semi-circles and quadrants, and we have a field ample enough to meet any emergency for variety of design or beauty of decoration. While, therefore, it would be impossible, in a descriptive sketch, to call attention to the many specific examples of these permutations and combinations, as shown in the scores of pa- latial residences adorning every avenue throughout the city, as seen by the members of the Club in their perambulations of the same, yet it may be proper that one or more of the villas that might be considered as representative, in connection with some of the vistas in which are grouped a succession of residences, and thus, at a coup d'oeil, present a continuous view that seems of almost impossible attainment, even though they be exhaust- ibly described — a description, it is admitted, that, even if at- tainable, can only be verified by actual visual perception. Desir- ing, however, not to make invidious distinctions, we shall cite more or less specifically some of the more prominent residences, while incidentally also referring to others. BUNGALOW EESIDEXCE. The first that appears as most unique among the rest is — The Bungalow of Wm. Barker, Xorth ]\fadison avenue and Walnut street. It will be recalled that while this is of but one story, like the Anglo-Indian bungalow, ite roof is not straw or reed. 224 The Pilgrimage of thatched like the originals of that name, nor does its veranda surround the entire building, yet the latter does surround the front building that faces upon Walnut street, its floor being elevated about three feet above the pavement of the front and back entrances thereof. Its deep projecting eaves, of roof and low dormer windows, its level lawns, straight concrete walks, its fan palm of colossal cone-shaped trunk, located in the centre of the lawn, bounding the front and side entrances from the street sidewalks — all conspired to make the domicil both home- like and attractive in the eyes of even the indifferent. BOYNTON VILLA. The Boynton residence, upon North El Molino avenue, next claims attention. Approached by a central driveway, which separate into a Y, to enclose a heart-shaped lawn, that shows a huge fan palm at the two sharp curves of the broad end — the trunks of the same being enshrouded with flowering trailing vines to the forks of the lowest branches, and the topmost fans towering as high as the building standing beyond in the back- ground, and, as it were, enframed between the palm trunks. The residence is of the L plan, having a veranda in the angle, and a porte cochere occupying the intermediate space between the veranda entrance and the base of the heart-shaped lawn — the supports of the porte-cochere being double Ionic columns, resting upon carved stone pedestals and placed under the angles of the ceiling — the roof of the same being a platform surrounded by a balustrade. The rearward extension of the veranda is sup- plied also with columns similar to those of the porte-cochere, to support its roof, whose plane surface is broken by a large ■dormer window, whose gable is of a similar design as that of the main building, which also faces the said lawn. • Upon the outer borders of the divided roadway entrance and in line with the aforesaid palms, are similar vine-clad palms that are even more lofty than the central ones, and, hence, to use the mathe- matical figure cited, we have a combination of two and two. In the centre of another lawn, farther to the rear, circular in shape, and in front of the main building, stands out boldly, like The San F rancisco Club. 225 a colossal bouquet, another palm of the sago species. Hence as viewed from the angle of the aforesaid lawn, or from a point' in line therewith, farther removed, the combination of building embowering palms and the other accessories make a most pleas- ing picture, and one likely to retain a tenacious hold upon the memory. ^ EOBEET BUEDETTE VILLA. _ "Sunny.crest"-the residence of Robert Burdette, the humor- ist, situated on the South Orange Cxrove avenue, next claims our attention. It is of the modified Mission style of archi- tectures tile roofed, as is also its low square tower, with squat roof, of converging ridge poles-the roof of the front build- ing having also a low dormer window of deep eaves and heavy vertical moldings. The grounds are so closely inter- spersed with cedars, pines, pepper-trees, palms and luxuri- ant shrubbery as to hide the lower stories of the building that ^rJr%r^ "n • "'""''' '"'"'"^^^^ ^^^"^ *^^ «id^--lk ^f the tW I I """^ """^ ^'°'^°^^ °^^^P^^"^^ ^ g^^tle eminence, that makes the site a conspicuous one, possesses an advantage over sTaU '' ''"^''' ''"''^'^ ^^ '^''' ^''' ^-''^'^^^y THE CRAVE^TS' RESIDENCE. as^W^fTi 'f''^''''' ^' ""'^^ ^'''''^' ^^P°^ *h^ '^^^ avenue as that of the last mentioned, and is a good contrast thereto in de^gn, though built of the same material. As it stands, its gable and side finish is fully disclosed from the street. The triangle of the gable end is divided upon its flat surface by mold- ings into squares and oblong rectangles, and relieved centrally ^y a trinal window, double-sashed-the three upper sashes con- taining very small panes, and the lower three each of large panes. Below the triangle a fancifully wrought and bracket- supported window-box gives an agreeable finish to the large canopied window of the second story-the same being identical Tvith the outward extension of the lintel of the main door en- trance of the ground floor, in line with which, upon the ri^ht 226 The Pilgrimage of are square windows, and beyond the end facade of the gable and in the same plane the elaborate columns of a double-decker veranda. The main elaborations, however, of the building are upon the north side, which may be considered the main front entrance to the residence, though approached by a footwalk that engages at the gable end with the driveway that enters from the street by a golf-stick curve. This latter facade, as viewed on the approach upon the avenue, is quite imposing — the site oc- cupying the summit of a moderate eminence, from which the front lawn gently declines toward the observer, and is dotted here and there with palmettoes, prickly and sago palms. The said front of the building is divided near the ends by outwardly pro- jecting wing-like extensions, whose facades, in their elevation, extend above the eaves of the main building, and terminating <;quilaterally in a point, they are connected by their roof like a dormer window with the roof of the main building. The face of the one wing extension next to the avenue is pierced on the tirst story by a broad and low-bowed window, and below the base of its triangle by two smaller square ones, that peep out through festoons of trailing flower bespangled vines that cover the entire triangle and droop half-way to the ground. The face of the other, or left wing, is relieved upon the ground floor by a square window, with sill face flush with the wall, but a like one of the second story has its sill extended outward and bracket-supported — both windows being canopied at will. The equilateral edges of the triangle of this wing extension are broken by right re- entrant angles, which are bare of vines, but overshadowed by the moss-like foliage of a lofty pepper tree, whose drooping sprays are a fit counterpart to the leafy covering of its co-ordinate wing. This facade is also connected with the main building by a similar acute angled roof, completing also the dormer window-like ap- pearance. To complete the effect the said wings are connected by a luxurious portico, whose roof bungalow-like projects far beyond the vertical faces of the said wings, thus supplying ample eaves that are richly festooned by a flowering vine, whose species we could not determine, but which, in its pendant sprays, gave a The San Francisco Club. 227 most pleasing contrast to the massive stone parapet guarding the floor from the outer bordering flower-bed, but broken away to admit of a passage entrance leading from the front driveway to this shady flower embowered retreat. A pair of urns, with their gracefully bowed fern-like palms, guard the entrance to said passage-way from the said driveway, and thus afford a common entrance way to the gable-end doorway as occasion may require. The contrasts of its chaste white walls, rich gar- nature of flowering vines and smoothly shaven lawns gave to the w^hole picture a graceful elegance that spoke well for the tastes of the occupants of the residence witho,ut giving ground for the accusation of borrowing from the styles of their neigh- bors. THE POEK-PACKEE EESIDENCE. The dark-colored oblong square residence of M. Cudahy, the Chicago pork-packer, was next pointed out to us, at the inter- section of St. John's avenue and Bellefontaine street. Though a two-story building, its deep projecting eaves, its low-roofed doubled and single dormer windows suggested a composite bungalow order of architecture, even though its porticoes were not connected or continuous, but simply covered each entrance of the end and side approaches to the building from the streets — either of which, from appearances, might be taken as main en- trances. The house is surrounded, on the street sides, by a stone wall of fine rubble-work, covered with a flat side-projecting stone coping, which latter, with the Chester columns that support the rooves of the entrance portico, the window moldings, spoutings and the tulip pendants that adorn the eaves of the roofs of the building and dormer windows, are all white, and thereby supply a contrast to the dark back-ground of the building that other- wise would appear to be of a too sombre a color. The planta- tion chimneys of the Southern States, built outside of the build- ings, faur in number, also of rubble stone work, give a good relief to an otherwise rather monotonous facade that the re- maining features of double and single oblong square windows would alone have failed to counteract. A small, fancy pavilion 228 The Pilgrimage of annex, of similar style, completes the group. Between the outer stone wall and the street sidewalks, a lawn occupies the entire surface of a single terrace, to which a single sago palm, at the angle of the streets, affords some relief to what otherwise con- veyed an impression of isolation to the residence. The build- ing, however, is new, and, therefore, in time, the lawn will no doubt have its complement of arboreal and floral decorations. FAY VILLA. The Winthrop Fay residence, on South Euclid avenue, was the next feature of the panorama that passed before us. Its broad gable-front, facing the avenue, is a beauty in its unique- ness of design, in its environment of perfectly oval ornamental trees that border its perfect lawns, divided into squares by its white concrete walks and driveway. Its site is that of a shallow terrace, whose immediate foreground is a lateral expansion of the approaching footwalk from the street sidewalk, and the supplement of the lower lawns. This concrete platform is reached by a low flight of steps from the said lower level, and is guarded right and left by flower-bearing urns, resting upon square pedestals. The ascent to the front portico floor from the said platform is by another flight of steps, bordered by Corin- thian columns, which, in turn, support, with other co-ordinate columns, a highly ornamental balustrade, whose carved posts terminate in globe finials. The most striking features of the facade, however, are those that appear above the balustrade, the first of which, to attract attention, is a hexagonal-shaped oriole window series, overtopped by a correspondingly shaped roof, with deep eaves, that, with its finial-capped urn reminds one of a tureen cover — its eaves or rim being upon the horizontal of the gable eaves, and, therefore, occupying a position in front of the angle of said latter eaves. The oriole window in front of the other gable angle is cylindrical — its top gently curving inward, like the frustrum of a cone with a flaring rim — the curved sur- face being relieved by rosettes. The windows, like those of its counterpart, are square. The centre of the triangle above the tops of the orioles, is occupied by a trinal window, whose cen- The San Francisco Club. 329 tral section is bowed from the tops of the entablatures of the other side sections, which are oblong squares — the entablatures of each being supported by columns in lieu of sash frames — the whole resting upon the bottom of a pendant box-like por- tico, or enlarged flower window-box, that, in turn, is supported by ornamental brackets. The balustrade, or guards of the same being of unbroken surface is rose-carved and fretted. The color of the building is that of a medium grey, and the whole being bathed in the bright sunlight was rendered still more attractive to the eye, and apparently with nothing more to desire. TOD FOED VILLA. The Tod Ford residence, on South Grand avenue, is also found to be bizarre in its leading features. The facade facing the street of this building is that also of the gable, and is of the old- fashioned Middle ages hip-roofed style. The upper section of the gable is relieved by a quaternal stained-glass window of the reticulated pattern, and surmounted by a rosetted cornice — its sill being covered with flowering clematis, in pendant festoons of lovely luxuriance. The tier of windows below the horizontal of the eaves are oblong squares in right and left pairs, and separated centrally by a narrow elongated bow window. The section of the ground floor is occupied by a continuous veranda, with plain columns supporting a balustraded roof — the main approach to the veranda and thence into the building, is covered by a deep awning. Standing at a considerable depth from the avenue, the co-operating parts produce a good effect, and the intermediate space in the foreground by lawns intersected by a broad concrete roadway — the one lawn being arc-shaped upon the edge bordering the roadway, and without shrubbery except upon the border opposite the road, which is adorned by sago and fan palms. The other lawn to the right is more rectillinear, and improved by palmettoes of different stages of maturity, and pepper trees in the more central portions. HAEKXESS VILLA. The composite style of the Harkness' residence, on South 230 The Pilgrimage of Orange Grove avenue, is the next in order. The broad and deep square tower-like building of the centre, with its tile roof of four combs or ridge-poles converging to a pine-apple finial; both its broad and narrow arched windows, with their bracket- supported and balustraded porches, revealing the thick walls of the same — its second story below of double-arched reticulated glass windows, to which are appended flower-laden boxes, and its oblong trinal window of the ground floor having its sections separated from each other by capital columns, instead of sash divisions — features that unite in connection with its associations to make the same measure up to its requirements as a becoming centre to the group. Hence, supporting the same upon the left, a broad low annex appears, with its gable facing the observer, covered with ivy-like vines, as in the case of the first and second stories of the centre, so densely as to hide the entire building, except the trinal arched windows of the ground floor and the three latticed windows in the centre of the triangle. The right wing shows in its upper portico work, the Moorish or Alhambra style of architecture and ornamentation, and is also tile-roofed. This, too, is densely ivy-covered. The re- maining building, at the extreme right, is of the Mission style, which, in its stucco facing and peak rounded gable, is so well known in Southern California. This upper portion of the gable front, with its oriole window of the reticulated pattern, is the only part, as in the case of the - aforesaid buildings, that is not enshrouded by the said ivy-like luxurious vine. The broad driveway approaching the group by a reversed curve, affords ample spaces for the well-kept lawns upon each side of the same, in connection with the pepper trees and sago palms that flank the group upon each side, and smile upon the same from the opposite side of the roadway afford a combina- tion most pleasing to the eye, and, no doubt, a constant source of pleasure to the occupants. THE HOLDER VILLA. The Holder residence, upon the same avenue, is a more perfect specimen of the Spanish-American style than any that has yet The San Francisco Club. 231 passed before us. The plan of the building is that of an L, of which the longer limb is the square main building. It is also of white troweled stucco, of perfect finish, is tile-roofed, with scalloped ridge-poles that converge from the corners of the eaves to the termini of the main comb, which is a short horizontal — tulip pendants ornamenting the eaves of the building and the low dormer window that occupies the centre of the triangular roof facing the front of the same. The front entrance porch is massive, with triple arched facade of heavy three-pointed en- tablature — the ends of the same consisting of but one broad arch, similar to the usual entrance of a porte-cochere. The angle of the building is also occupied by a massive reversed L, of a series of arches without roof, that, in conjunction with the walls of the building, forms a complete square veranda, supplied with a low balustrade, connecting the bases of the arched openings. The smoothly shaven lawn that affords an unobstructed view of the building, with its date palm at the end of the square arched veranda in the foreground, and the mass of flowering, trailing vines that surround the end archways of the front veranda or porch, with the lawn and its ornamental trees to the right of the residence looking out therefrom toward the broad driveway, paralleling the front thereof, complete the picture. THE JACQUES VILLA. The Jacques four-gabled-residence on East Colorado street, steep-roofed, with ridge-poles at right angles to each other, next claims our attention. The first detail to attract notice is the hexagonal tower occuping the front angle from the point of ob- servation, and cutting into the hip-roof extension of the main gable-roof. Beneath eaves of the tower roof that is made to conform to the plan of the same, small square windows appear upon each hexagonal face — the ridge-poles of the said roof being reversed curves that converge to an ornamental scepter-like finial. An ornamental diamond shield occupies the gable angle, having a plain pendant strip extending from the lower angle of the shield to the centre of the arch of the oblong bow-window that 232 The Pilgrimage of occupies the centre of the triangle. From the top of the window arch upon each side of the said shield pendant, lines are sprayed to the contiguous roof-edges of the triangle. Small oblong win- dows of one-half the height of the central bow-window, tlank the same upon both sides — their lintels being outwardly extended to form permanent awnings. The triangle, also being pro- jected beyond the vertical plane of the lower facade, appears to perform the part, to a limited extent, of a continuous awning or shelter of the part of the facade enclosed between the hip- roof edges of the gable centre. In the immediate foreground, in front of the ground story of the central building or gable front, a massive veranda is erected, parallel thereto, of square columns and plain abacuses, which support a reticulated balus- trade, environing an ample promenade equal to any emergency. The large square portals of ingress and egress are at each end of the veranda, facing the point of observation — the central square being occupied by an urn of elaborate design and containing trailing moss-like ferns that wave their plumes under the agency of the most gentle zephyrs. Flowering vines and clambering roses almost smother the columns, while sago and date palms, at points further removed, in front wave their leafy plumes also to the passing spectator to a closer interview. To the right, and fronting the hexagonal tower, an immense sago palm, of a height equal to one-half the altitude of the tower, spreads its plumes over a space of from twelve to fifteen feet, meeting an equally lofty lantana, upon its right, and similar large but different species upon its left, a multitudinous variety of roses diversifying its front, thus completing the background of associated beauties that must exact the notice of all, even those who may prefer other triumphs of residential attainment, to be seen at every turn. MACOMBEE VILLA. The Macomber mansion, of South Orange Grove avenue, is another villa of most prepossessing appearance. Both the plan of the building and the perfection of its details show a combina- tion that is proven to be most resourceful. It consists primarily of a main building standing parallel to the avenue. Taking this The San Francisco Club. 333 as a basis, at a convenient distance from each corner of the same, an annex or wing is projected forward, each wing being sepa- rated from the other by a central court. The one wing to the left of the court is of pentagonal tower-like form, is of two stories in height, with a projecting cornice whose metules are seen to have characteristic guttae of the Doric style, which we have had occasion to refer to frequently as tulip pendants, that seems to be a favorite finish with many in this locality. Above the cornice are erected massive square posts, at the angles of pentagon-shaped flat roof— the said posts being the supports for a suitable balustrade. Each face of the tower-like wing con- tains a square window in its upper story — the portico of the first story being sheltered by a permanent awning conforming in shape to the angles of the tower. The other projecting wing presents a gable front, the centre of whose triangle is occupied by a trinal window — each section of which is bowed, the centre one, however, projecting above the others. The horizontal base of the triangle projects to such an extent as to be considered also as a permanent awning. Cen- trally and immediately below this said horizontal projection a cylindrical oriole window is hung, flanked on each side by square windows— one of which is reticulated in each of its four divisions by vertical and horizontal lines, except as to the centre of the window, which is occupied by a diamond pane. The other win- dow, to the right of the oriole, has its projecting lintel broadened into a frieze with terminal pendants — the sill being likewise similarly extended outwardly and bracket-supported to receive the usual window flower-box. The permanent awning of the portico in front of this wing is made to conform to the vertical surface of the cylindrical oriole window, while the balance of the roof corresponds to the flat surface of the wall upon each side of said wmdow. The two awning roofs are made continuous across the front of the enclosed court except centrally where the roof appears to be flat, and said central portion to be guarded in front by a latticed balustrade, beneath which is hung a bracket- supported platform, which performs the function of a lintel to the main entrance to the portico, that is flanked by Corinthian 234 The Pilgrimage of columns, whose bases rest upon the ends of a low stone parapet that extends along the entire front of the same, except where broken to admit of ingress to and egress from the portico and central court within — said place of ingress being reached from the broad driveway b}^ a concrete footpath, whose point of de- parture from said driveway is marked by globes of stone resting upon pedestals of the same material. Fronting the wings and bordering the entrance footway are parterres of flowers and plano-concave lawns, that extend right and left toward the foreground — the concave side of the laA\Tis Iwrdering upon the main driveway — the inner concave of the driveway border- ing a central lawn of magnificent proportions that is dotted here and there with sago, fan and date palms of all sizes, and an ad- ditional variety of ornamental shade trees and shrubbery of whose extent in this locality has already been referred to. The grounds being of considerable area and depth, and the mansion occupying the remote background, the whole view is brought out in more perfect perspective than if the view were much more restricted. This last-named advantage of breadth and depth of grounds in admitting of the triumphs of the architect and landscape gardener is also illustrated in like degree in the case of "TOERINGTON PLACE" VILLA. The residence of Mrs. Swan is known as "Torrington Place." The group of buildings is, however, so artistic in its arrange- ment of small and large gables, oblong, square and dormer win- dows, its succession of oblong, semi-circular and circular ve- randas, with their chaste white Ionic columns and elaborate en- tablatures, supporting roof promenades with unparalleled out- looks of lawns, parterres, bowers and ornamental shade-trees that would require the genius of the highest poetic imagery to ade- quately portray ; therefore, we must decline the task. We would, therefore, not attempt the portrayal of the realized dream, but leave to the memory of those who saw the original the pleasure of bringing back, at least the salient points of the reality. While ruminating upon this and other gems of this locality, we thought The San Francisco Club. 335 of Claude Malnotte's palace, that Bulwer puts into the mouth of the former in his portrayal of the home that he would erect for his fair inamorata, if "love be permitted to fulfill its prayers," and, hence, he calls upon her to listen as he dilates upon its at- tractions. "It would be," says he, "a palace that lifts to the eternal heavens its marble walls from amidst bowers of brightest foliage, musical with birds, whose songs should syllable thy name. It should be near a clear lake glassing softest skies, as cloudless, save by rare and roseate shadows, as I would have thy fate. At noon, we'd sit beneath the arching vines and wonder how the world could be unhappy while heaven still left us youth and love. We'd have no friends that were not lovers. We'd read no books that were not tales of love, that we might smile to think how poorly the eloquence of words translates the poetry of hearts like ours ; and when night came, beneath the breathless heavens we'd guess what star shall be our home, when love becomes immortal ; while the perfumed light steals through the mists of alabaster lamps, and every air is heavy with the sighs of orange groves, and the music of sweet lutes and the murmurs of low fountains that gush forth in the midst of roses." But here, amid other residential creations, we find a fair counterpart to Melnotte's dream, and, therefore, we shall men- tion those yet to be simply by name, and thus give opportunity to the imaginative members of the Club who may thus recall them to invest the same with like charms as those that Bulwer has woven about his residential creation. We would like to dwell at some length upon the attractions of "Carmelita," the residence of Mrs. Eeed, upon Orange Grove avenue, as a good second to "Torrington Place," but we must forbear, Merwin's "Miraffores," on Buena Vista street, as its name indicates, is nearly buried in a deluge of lantanas, and an in- numerable number of other flowering plants. The mansions of Kendall and Barnum, upon South Orange Grove avenue, are well worth critical examination. The Marble residence, on Bellefontaine street, and that of 236 The Pilgrimage of Mrs. Macy, on Markham street, are also quite attractive in ap- pearance. The mansions of Bishop Johnson, South Grand avenue, and Hon. James McLachlin, at the intersection of Marengo avenue and California street, are particularly noted for their arhoreal park-like surroundings. Those of Mrs. Breed, on West California street, and Dr. Bleeker, on North Marengo avenue, have like arboreal displays, though their grounds are not so large as the last two above mentioned. The Metcalf residence, on "West Colorado street, and that of Mr. Miller, on South Grand avenue, are noted — the former for its immense sago palms, and the latter for the same and pepper trees that almost bury with their luxuriance. But space wall not admit of mention of other residential beauties, since they bewilder by their multitude. Hence, as a fit finale, we can but mention the superb vistas of East Colorado and Columbia streets, and that of South Grand avenue. The first-named combines the views of a number of beautiful resi- dences, amid indescribable surroundings of arboreal and horti- cultural beauty. That of Columbia street is more conspicuous for its vigorous growth of shade trees indigenous to the locality, that border both sides of the street, and, hence, as one stands in the middle of the street and looks westward, the effect of the embowering trees is more palpable than the imperfect view of the residences that stand removed more or less from the sidewalk. That of South Grand takes in a broader lateral view, for the reason that the residences stand much farther in the background than in either of the aforesaid cases. It may well be labeled — "seek no farther," as it combines so much that, in leaving it, one feels that it cannot be excelled, at least so far as we saw, in this city of multitudinous vistas. We will, therefore, go no farther. And last, before we take our departure from this city of the "Land of the Afternoon," we must record our visit to one of the landmarks thereof — the great "Live Oak Tree," that stands in the foreground of one of the little parks. Its numerous and The San Francisco Club. 237 huge branches, that of themselves are equal to the trunks of many of the largest trees elsewhere, are spread out like an im- mense bouquet from the main trunk, that we were informed is eighty-six feet in diameter. We think, however, that our informant intended to say circumference, as we were not in- clined to think it larger than that measurement would sanction. It, however, presented a most majestic appearance, and over- shadowed a very large plot of ground. The day, however, of unparalleled like experiences amid the realities of homes made beautiful by every device of art and triumph of nature is drawing rapidly to a close, and the ap- proaching shadows remind us that Los Angeles is seven miles away and the demands of the evening, after a call at the Special, are imperious. We, therefore, must away with the promise, at least silently made, that the scenes of the day are so worthy of rehearsal, that it is hoped, at no distant future day, the same shall be re-experienced under circumstances when we may ab- sorb more at our leisure, much to which we have been able to give only a cursory view, and which we desire more fully to enjoy, with all their suggestive associations. Therefore, after returning our sincere thanks to our agreeable and intelligent chaperons, in their efforts to entertain and in- struct, and bidding farewell to our knightly and courteous friend, Sir John McDonald, we take the short-line trolley, and are soon at our place of rendezvous aboard the Special. O O 238 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXXI. EETUEN TO LOS ANGELES. Dinner being duly despatched, we confer concerning the pro- gram of the evening. Many of the Knights and their Ladies who had failed to participate in the reception at the Masonic Temple on the previous evening, thought it advisable to take advantage of our last opportunity of now doing so. Hence, the great majority, both of those who had previously enjoyed the festivities of the evening before, as well as of those who had not, made their due appearance. The writer and his companion were among the repeaters, as it is presumed that we recognize "a good thing when we see it." We record that the entertain- ment was even more elaborate than that of the previous evening. The music of the women's orchestra of seven pieces, the Terpsi- chorean movements upon the banqueting floor, the social ameni- ties more universally cultivated, and the courtesies of the re- freshment table more lavishly dispensed, if possible, than as before participated in. Therefore, as a parting reminder of the pregnant occasion, a souvenir booklet was presented to each Knight or Lady, having upon its title page the following: "This little souvenir of the pueble of the Queen of the Angles, Los Angeles, the chief city of the "Land of the Afternoon," and the Commercial Metropolis of the Great Southwest, is presented with the fraternal greetings of the five hundred and twenty-five members of Los Angeles Commandery, No. 9, Knights Templar, to their visiting fraters, from all parts of the world. September, 1904." Upon an examination of this neat little booklet, we were happy to discover that it confirmed much that we had gleaned from other sources, with cuts giving bird's-eye views of the city, vistas of its principal streets and a few of its public points of interest, and, therefore, we felt renewed confidence in the data that we had already recorded of our peregrinations over the city and its environs. The San Francisco Clnh. 239 And here, in passing to other associations allow us to say that, as all the Knights and their Ladies did not, at the same time, visit the same localities, and some of us were obliged to omit a portion from our personal programs, we cannot, therefore, speak of those localities from personal observation. Therefore, in referring to the same, we will be obliged to depend upon the reports of others, if we would make the narrative more or less complete. Among those already referred to was that of Mt. Lowe, which is spoken of as a point of much interest, as we shall briefly record. In making this trip, reference to the intermediate points between Los Angeles and the point of ascent to Mt. Lowe need not be made. We will, therefore, state that it is at Eubio Canyon that the tourist takes the incline car, after an ascent from Los Angeles of 2,100 feet. "To stand at the foot of the incline and look up at the next stage of the trip is a thrilling experience and not soon forgotten. The grades of the incline are 69, 62, 58 and 48 per cent., and in a distance of 3,000 feet one ascends an alti- tude of 1,300 feet. It is, in many respects, one of the most interesting railways in the world, and one of its attractive features is the steepest bridge ever built, being 200 in length and the upper end being 120 feet higher than the lower end. The road is made absolutely safe ))y ample safety devices, and af- fords many thrilling experiences. This great product of science and genius seems at first an impossible fact, but as we ascend and, seemingly, leave the earth, a broader and better view of the valley, the cities and surrounding country is obtained, and we are led to marvel at the achievements and the glorious scenes about us. We step out of the car upon Echo Mountain, 3,500 feet above the sea, and behold a perfect panorama of land and ocean. At this point is situated the Echo Mountain Chalet, commanding such a view of the incline railway as to observe all of the different grades, the Casino and famous Observatory. After some of the points of interest are searched out in this locality, the Observatory is visited. Here, also, is obtained a commanding view of the San Gabriel, Le Canada and San Fer- nando Valleys ; Altadena, Pasadena, Los Angeles and the Pacific 240 The Pilgrimage of Ocean, and, farther removed, Santa Catalina, San Clemente, Santa Barbara and the San Nicholas Islands. From Echo Mountain to Alpine Tavern one moves through the grandest of mountain scenery. Constantly ascending higher and higher, winding around the edges of beautiful canons, looking down their steep and precipitous sides, observing still another canon just beyond us, and soon coming to a point which a few moments previous was directly beneath us, revealing many loops on the winding road. Soon we are upon the Great Circular Bridge, which strands a beautiful canon, making a circle around the spur of the mountain. Los Flores and Millard Canons, Cape of Good Hope, Live Oak Grove, Gut Heil Loop, Circular Bridge, Sunset Point, Granite Gate, Grand Canon, Alpine Park and Mt. Lowe Springs are beautiful and inviting points of interest, which are seen in succession after leaving Echo Mountain en route to the Alpine Tavern. We reach the last-named, 5,000 feet above sea level, the view of which suddenly breaks upon us as one rounds the last curve of the winding mountain railway. At the Tavern the Incline Eailway terminates, and the ascent beyond to the summit is made by ponies or by foot, which latter mode is very exhilarating. The Tavern is located in a forest of mam- moth pines and oaks. It is delightfully situated, in a charm- ing and picturesque spot at the head of Grand Canon, and it is modeled after the Swiss style of architecture, being a com- bination of granite and pine, and is a first-class hostelry in every respect, with its renowned social hall, which contains a mammoth fire-place." Of additional trips, the Knights and their Ladies speak en- thusiastically. Upon the trip to and the return from San Monica, Sir Knight Machlin says that upon the outward trip from Los Angeles he and his party "passed through 4,000 acres of beautiful rolling country, all of which was in lima beans, 3,000 acres being on one farm. The vines and pods are baled for feed. No irriga- tion is needed, only the fogs from the ocean and the winter rains. We also passed by great orchards of olives and lemons, and stopped off at Hollywood to see the home and art gallery The San Francisco Club. 241 of Paul de Longpre, the noted painter of flowers. This noted artist bade us enter his magnificent residence and make ourselves at home. His great park of flowers, of every species, is simply indescribable, as are his paintings, which resemble them so closely that even a bee would imagine it was going up against the real thing. The price asked for one flower scene was $5,000.00, and it was not supposed to be upon the bargain counter either." Sir Knight Wagner . also chaperoned a party over the same route, stopping also to see the attractions of the same artist. The courteous gentleman, Paul de Longpre, after opening his mansion and gallery to the party, presented each with a large card, upon which was engraved upon one side, the front elevation of his home and the foregrounds; and upon the reverse side the elegant pagoda summer houses, artistically associated parterres and ornamental shade trees in the background. This Artist Home, the Woman's Club House and a private resi- dence of Los Angeles are given in the said Knight Souvenir booklet as the most perfect specimens in the region of the Mis- sion or Spanish-American style of architecture. They all, though differing in details of design, are very beautiful, both in their uniqueness and their artistic finish, particularly in the fretted work upon the entaljlature above the arches, the lace- like balustrade above the same and similar work upon the ver- tical surfaces of the flower-])oxes below the broad windows of the gables (as shown in the Longpre mansion), and the scalloped finish that is a characteristic of all the gables of this style — the finial of the same being a disk of a less or greater curvature instead of the angular peak of the Gothic. And, now, returning from these digressing journeys to the Special, after the reception of the Masonic Temple, we sought, without ceremony, our couches, and soon were lost to the world, to darkness and to ourselves. THE LAST DAY. The morning of September 3, our last day in Los Angeles, ac- cording to the itinerary, being ushered in, all the members of the Club were early upon the qui vive to note the trend of 16 242 The Pilgrimage of thought and to thereby decide how best to improve the time still left us. The writer and his companion, after calling upon some friends originally from the East, now resident upon Boyle Heights, and thereafter returned to the business part of the city, concluded to take a run to Long Beach, some twenty-five miles distant and accessible by trolley within the period of an hour. This is a most popular seaside resort in the estimation of the people of Los Angeles, and is constantly patronized by all classes of citizens. After leaving the environs of the city, we soon reach the town of Florence, a flourishing place of some 800 inhabitants, which is surrounded by a fertile and well cultivated district, whose products find a ready market in Los Angeles. Compton, the next town passed eiv route, has about the same number of inhabitants, and is located in the centre of the fruit bolt, whose activities give employment to many of its citizens. Grapes, citrus fruits and berries grow here in the greatest luxuri- ance. The berry crop of such kinds as are particularly popular in the East are here cultivated in great abundance, and shipped to all parts of the country. After passing through other culti- vated sections that continue to maintain the wonderful produc- tiveness of the region, and in turn passing through marshy patches that betoken the near approach to the coast, we arrive at length at our place of destination. Long Beach. The popu- larity of this place of resort is immediately impressed upon us on account of the immediate recognition upon our part of the salubrity of the air, since upon this, one of the warmest days of the season an exposure to the intensified glare of the sun is not at all oppressive, but rather quite agreeable, as one passes to and from along the exposed beach. It is said that bathing in the surf is indulged in during the year round, the beach being, at all times, the centre of attraction. An immense pier extends out into the ocean some 1,600 feet, and thus affords accommodations for vessels of the heaviest ton- nage at its mooring posts. The beach affords the additional attraction of ])eing a magnificent driveway — the surf having pounded the sands so compactly that the beach, after a receding tide, is almost as unimpressible as the surface of a concrete drive- Tli6 San Francisco Club. 243 way. This resort is called Long Beach for the reason that, for the distance of fourteen miles, or for seven miles each direction from the said pier, the coast line can be clearly traced by the naked eye — the resort occupying the centre of a gentle concave curve for that distance. A well-built and commodious pavilion occupies the shore end of the pier at a point some 500 feet from the beach. Upon this occasion the bathing beach, the pier and the pavilion was well patronized, and the last-named somewhat crowded. It is true that the crowd was somewhat greater this day from the fact that the members of an Order, embracing both sexes in its membership, had selected this date as a gala day, and representatives thereof by the hundred adorned in their gaily-colored regalia, promenaded to and fro — the majority of the members being young people in their late teens and early twenties, ambitious of seeing who could best enjoy themselves. We, too, perambulate, and find the enjoyment contagious, if not indigenous to the locality, and, therefore, "asking not the reason why," we simply absorb the atmosphere of our environment until reminded that Old Sol has commenced to "rush down the skies," as it were, under the consciousness that we must terminate our day, as he does his. Hence, again, the trolley to Los Angeles. DIVERSIONS ELSEWHEEE. While we were improving the time at Long Beach, others of the Club were elsewhere, gleaning all within their reach, ere taking up the return trip to San Francisco, homeward bound, via San Jose. We have already spoken of the delightful weather at the Beach, while others who visited Redlands and Riverside say that the temperature at the former place was 100 degrees, and, speaking of this fact, Sir Macklin reports that he heard a by-stander contrast said temperature with that of a region "from which no traveler returns." Not having, however, ourselves visited either of the said localities, we are not in a position to confirm or deny the allegations, and will, therefore, leave the matter still an open question for those that may be called upon to attest the facts in the case — a decision that it is to be hoped will not fall to the lot of any of the Club. 344 The Pilgrimage of It is true that Sir. M. does not confine his observations at Redlands and Eiverside to the mere matter of the heat, but he speaks of "the greatness of their orange and lemon orchards," which is a fact of state-wide knowledge. Speaking of Riverside, another has said: "Eiverside manages to cover 25,000 acres, and this great extent of territory has upon it between 3,000 and 4,000 inhabitants. But did ever any one behold a more beauti- ful sight than this orchard city, reclining in the midst of orange groves, its magnificent avenues lined with ornamental trees, among which the Oriental palm is most conspicuous, its artistic villa residences surrounded with grounds in which the care of the landscape gardener can be seen, its fine business blocks of brick and stone, its handsome hotels, and its surrounding vine- yards making it a perfect bower of beauty." But now the clans have all reported at the Special, have rehearsed to each other the experiences of the day, either briefly or at large, according to the loquacity of the speaker, and, con- cluding their rehearsals, have agreed that the time of the re- tracement of footsteps homeward has come. With these, and like declarations, one and all "turn in," to seek the recuperation of sleep, with the assurance that the thirty-two miles of the distance to San Jose will be traversed ere the hours of the early morn shall greet us. ^ w My o o o The San Francisco Club. 345 CHAPTER XXXII. SAN JOSE. San Jose, September 4, found the Special at about 7 :30 A. M. at the railway station, whence we were sidetracked, to spend the day (Sunday), according to our several inclinations. The writer and his companion, with others of the Club, after having despatched a late breakfast, went to the railway station to see the departure of the delegation by tally-ho to visit the Lick Ob- servatory, some twenty-eight miles distant. Having wished hon voyage to the same, we went to church, as did also other members of the Club, and thus we spent the balance of the forenoon. How others also spent the day is best related by Sir Maeklin. After stating that the city had been explored pretty thoroughly during the morning, he relates that with others "in the after- noon he rode out on the street cars, ten miles, from San Jose, through one continuous succession of fruit orchards, and when he came to the foothills of Santa Cruz Mountains, they were still seen on the sloping sides of the mountains, half-way to the summit. Such a vision of the productiveness of California had not before been granted to us. Every kind of fruit grows in the Santa Clara Valley, first in importance and value being the cultivation of prunes, which are now being picked, not off the trees, but from the ground after they fall, by Chinese and Jap labor. The prunes are then dried in the sun for five days. Apricots are also very profitable. The brighest and best fruit is now selling at nine cents per pound. The pits of the apricot bring $8.00 per ton in San Jose, where the hard shell is cracked by machinery, the kernels taken out and used in medicinal prepa- rations. Here also, are orchards of peaches, English walnuts, almonds, olive trees, lemons, oranges, etc. A relative of mine, Mrs. E. B. North, formerly from Mifflin County, of Pennsyl- vania, has here a fine fruit ranch of 160 acres, on the foothills, from which a magnificent view of the valley is obtained, and it 246 The Pilgrimage of is to her we are indebted for many courtesies. Her crop of fruit this year is thirty tons, many of her trees being just in bearing. On these uplands of the charming valley one inhales the pure, dry and bracing atmosphere, the nights being cool enough in summer for a covering of blankets. After a further extension of our journey to Los Gatos, a summer and winter resort for Californians, we returned to San Jose, the electric car spinning through the long shady avenues of trees at forty miles per hour, and an overcoat is very comfortable, although the sun shines hot in the valley below. San Jose depends altogether upon its fruit industries for its existence, and it is a busy one." Under other circumstances, we would have liked to have been one of the delegation who visited Mt. Hamilton and the Lick Observatory thereon, but the distance to be traversed by team, the round trip requiring an entire day, the fact that the great telescope was not at the disposal of visitors, except upon Satur- day nights, and for other reasons we thought that we could better dispose of the time saved by giving up this special trip. The facts connected with the foundation and equipment of this Observatory has been a subject of much interest to the writer since its early inception. It will, no doubt, be recalled by many members of the Club that the disposition of his estate by Mr. James Lick, in his will, of some $4,000,000 to charitable and educational institutions, was a surprise to even his most inti- mate friends, as his habits of selfishness and avarice would have suggested a very different sequel. The largest bequest of his estate made to any one object was that of $700,000 for the es- tablishment of this Observatory, as a gift to the University of California. Mr. Lick selected the site, and at that time it was inaccessible. The land belonged to tlie United States Government, and Congress granted 1,600 acres of it for the uses of the Ob- servatory. Another condition contained in the will was that the County of Santa Clara, in which the site is located, should build a road to the summit of the mountain to the place of the site, at a cost of not less than $75,000. The county accepted the terms, and exceeded that amount and expended $100,000 thereon — the road proper being twenty-one miles long. It is called The San Francisco Club. 247 Lick Avenue, and is one of the finest roads in the entire West. The grades are so gentle that it is said that they do not exceed, at any one place six and three-fourths feet in one hundred; and that a team can ascend any part of the road upon a trot. A further requirement of the will was in connection with the tele- scope, was that "it was to be a powerful one, superior to and more powerful than any telescope yet made." The erection of the Observatory was begun in July, 1888, and the work was carried forward under great difficulties — everything needed therein being necessarily transported to the summit, which is 4,440 feet above the sea. The fortunate discovery of a spring not far below the summit, and that of a bed of good brick clay about one-sixth of a mile further down was made avail- able, and soon a reservoir of 300,000 gallons was erected close to the site, being hewn out of the solid rock, and thus urgent needs were met. The Observatory is said to be some 280 feet long, and its parts consist of a transit-house, meridian circle, a photoheliograph and heliostat, and photograph house. The main building stands due north and south, and fronts west — the best position possible for astronomical purposes. The refractor is thirty-six inches and is the second largest in the world. The body of Mr. Lick rests beneath the base of the Observatory. PALO ALTO. Upon our return from church, after partaking of lunch at the Special, some of the Club proposed to go to Palo Alto, and the proposition being entertained, we arrived there in time at attend services in the Memorial Chapel of the world-renowned Stanford University. Having previously read of this wonderful produc- tion of art, whose erection cost more than $1,000,000, we were most desirous of seeing it. This we were able to do, somewhat in detail, after the close of the religious services. The lofty technique embodied in the mural paintings and mosaics were so fascinating and permanently impressive, that we feel confident of the truth of the assertion that the same is not equaled from an artistic standpoint in any building of the country, unless, perhaps, in its mosaics of the Congressional Library of Wash- 248 The Pilgrimage of ington, which many of us have seen. Its cathedral-like appear- ance, when taken as a whole, its graceful arches and stained-glass windows, as seen in the mellow light diifused through chancel and transept made an impression that still haunts the corridors of memory, and keeps ever vigorous the desire to again dwell upon the enchanting vision. LELAND STANFOED, JK., UNIVERSITY. The Stanford Palo Alto estate of 7,300 acres, upon which the University is erected, is part of the endowment thereof — the total of which is $35,000,000, which sum makes the University the richest endowed educational institution in the world. Taken in their entirety, the University Buildings constitute the most beautiful group in America. They all constitute a part of a magnificent plan, are built of the brown sandstone for which this valley is noted, which is of an agreeable light shade, and contrasts well with the perennial green of the environment. The separate buildings are restricted to two stories, long arched cor- ridors bordering and affording entrance to the lecture rooms of the ground floor — the entire assemblage being so relatively situ- ated as to enclose a most magnificent quadrangle, that is some 580 feet long and 240 broad. The approach, in front, to the quadrangle, is spanned by a massive memorial arch, whose archi- trave is surmounted by an appropriate allegorical frieze, that is worthy of a minute study — the archway at a fixed point, appear-, ing as a fit frame- work for the superb group in bronze of Leland Stanford, in erect posture facing the son, who is facing the arch, and the wife and mother, Mrs. Stanford, kneeling by the side of the son — Leland Stanford, Jr. The gateway, or entrance to the campus, is of beautiful design, after the Spanish-American style. It consists in the main of two square towers, built of the same material of sandstone as the buildings of the quadrangle, and are located, one upon each side of the avenue leading to the said memorial arch. These towers are forty feet high, and are arched over the sidewalk by arches twenty feet high. They are roofed with tiles — the roofs being in the form of low square pyra- mids, and each flanked upon each side thereof by a shoulder or The San Francisco Club. 349 shelf that is also covered by a half-pyramidal roof. These square towers have also each, upon the side thereof removed from the entrance way, an arched reredos-like wing of five arches — said wings being each terminated at its outer end by a round dome- topped tower. These wing arches are merely ornamental open- ings, are not used as passageways (their sills being some four feet from the ground) and are overtopped with plain entabla- tures, cornices and tiled copings — the top of the latter being in the same horizontal line as the large arches of the entrance towers. The arches of the wing are separated by Doric columns with circular abacus, and somewhat similar base. The cost of the gateway was $25,000. The number of students of the last semester was, we understood, some 1,800, including those of both sexes. The maximum number allowed, under the rules, of wo- men, is 500. There is no limit to the number of males. The dormitories for the accommodation of the students are outside the quadrangle — Encina Hall being set apart for the boys, and Eoble Hall for the girls. The new chemistry building and museum are also outside the quadrangle. The tuition in the University is free, and the equipment all that could be expected in an institution so richly endowed. The town Palo Alto, about ten minutes drive from the Univer- sity, is a pretty place, with a population of some 2,500, and is an up-to-date town in its educational, business and social require- ments. We understood that the place took its name from its single lofty tree, a redwood, that was shown to us, and stated to be 175 feet in height. There seems to be no others of the same species in this part, at least, of the valley, and it is considered mysterious how it came to root and grow here. We had not time to visit the enclosure by which it is surrounded, but were told that the trunk was some twenty feet in diameter at the base. The citizens have used every precaution to preserve it by cabling it to supports in every direction, that it may not be strained by the wind, and have cast up a mound about it to protect the trunk and roots. Hence, our curiosity was enhanced rather than abated by this recital. Upon our return to the station, we took a drive through the J50 The Pilgrimage of town, and noted some of its pretty residences, surrounded by an exuberance of ornamental shrubbery and flowers, and the general evidences of thrift that abounded upon every side. By request, our driver took us past the house in which the late Eev. Wm. Taylor, Missionary Bishop of Africa of the M. E. Church, spent the last year of his life. The writer having been personally acquainted with him, and in earlier manhood the preceptor of his oldest son, we felt a special interest in all that related to him and his wonderful career. It was he, as we have before stated, that first introduced the Eucalyptus tree into California from Australia, that has since become one of its most numerous and valuable trees. Since our former reference to this tree, we have heard of a case of its rapid growth, in which it attained the height of seventy-five feet and a diameter of two feet in eight 3^ears. Having, at length, explored the town to our satisfaction, we re- turned to the station, ready for our return to San Jose, at about 6 P. M. After the lapse of thirty minutes were again aboard the Special, qualified to do justice to the menu, and, later, pre- pared, according to rule, to enjoy the song service in the Ob- servation car. We did not await the arrival of the delegation that went, in the morning, to Mt. Hamilton, before seeking our berths for the night, and, therefore, we did not hear any of them express themselves as regards the incidents of the trip. OX TO SAN FRANCISCO. The morning of the 5th found us rapidly approaching San Francisco, where we arrived at 7 oclock, and as we were booked for the Euss House, it was announced that we would there break- fast. Hence, all Avere in the hurry and bustle to have their baggage duly tagged, that no mistake in delivery of the same to the hotel should occur. The latter, being upon New Mont- gomery street, and at a point removed by but a couple of blocks from Market street, we were not long in arriving at what was to be our headquarters during our stay in the city. Having, at length, gone through the routine of securing, in turn, our keys The San Francisco Club. 251 to our rooms, while awaiting our baggage, and having our patience rewarded by its ultimate arrival, we turned in diligently, each to identify his own in the huge pyramid upon the sidewalk, and when successful, to have the same removed to our respective domicils. We also readily recall the further delay entailed upon each of us, even after finding our belongings, in having the same taken to its final tagged destination. This said ordeal of our initial experience, we may say, was a fair sample of the hand-to- mouth service that we received at this hostelry during our entire stay in the city. Being, at length, enabled to drag our own trunk to the elevator, that we might have some lift to our proper story, and, thence, by another drag to our proper room, we were, at length, enabled to hastily put ourselves in a presentable form to appear at the dining-room. But even upon one's arrival at the entrance door of the dining-room, one would not rush in and take a seat, even though there were never so many chairs vacant. This, of course, would not have been up to the standard of Russ House etiquette, and, hence, the major domo of the door would keep one waiting, even though one-half of the seats were unoccupied. It is true that the proprietor would, some- times, break the red tape and invite us to seats, after our marrow- bones were beginning to protest most vigorously in "learning to labor and to wait." And, at length, when once seated, we con- fess that, after another lengthy pause in being waited upon, we did not aflSrm that our bill of fare was 50 per cent, better, if as good, as we would have gotten elsewhere. We overheard a patron of the hotel criticising the disparity between the amount of his bill at $5.00 per day, and the published proposals of the bill of fare, as if it were parvum in multo (little in much). Without, however, stating specifically the daily sum for which the members of our club were taxed for their accommodations, we will say that we have received better service for $2.50 per day than were assigned us. Controlled, therefore, by this belief, it is natural that we would not be expected to tax our descriptive powers in entering into the details of the menu, the appoint- ments of our dormitories, or the mural attractions of the bar- room. It was, therefore, but natural that we should first visit 252 The Pilgrimage of the headquarters of the Information Bureau, and get such cir- culars of printed matter as would place the visiting Knights and their Ladies in a position to receive the courtesies provided by the Grand and Subordinate Commanderies of California, that we knew would be dispensed with a largess that the Sir Knights of the jurisdiction were known to be ever ready to dispense; and that, too, to an extent that no other jurisdiction could successfully emulate. d/ W \!/ o o o The San Francisco Club. 253 CHAPTER XXXIII. PEOGEAM OF ENTEETAINMENT. Among the first items of information received was, that the California Commanderies had arranged to keep open house at tlieir respective headquarters during the entire Conclave week. Also, that the Ladies' Committees would hold a reception, with entertainment, every afternoon and evening of the same at the Palace Hotel, excepting upon Tuesday, the Parade Day. Prep- arations had also been made for daily excursions during the week to Oakland, Berkley, Alameda, etc., over such systems of railway as were designated upon the circulars of information distributed to all applicants. The illumination of Market and the neighboring portions of the intersecting streets was announced to commence upon the night of the 3d of September, to continue until the 10th, and, hence, enjoyable during the nights of our entire stay in the city. And as we have stated that our arrival was upon the 5th, we were naturally interested in the first place to learn the program of the day and evening, as officially announced. In addition to the fact that this day, being "Labor Day" in Cali- fornia, most of the places of business were closed and the right of way upon the streets was given to the various organizations identified with the labor movement, and the incoming com- manderies, with the resident escorts of the latter; and, hence, the various receptions, etc., of the Knights were announced for the evening. Therefore, we note the first of the series for the week was an informal reception of that evening, "held in honor of the Grand Master and the distinguished visitors by the Ladies' Eeception Committee, in the parlors of the Palace Hotel. AT THE PALACE HOTEL. The wives, sisters and daughters of the most prominent Sir Knights of California assumed full charge of the headquarters 254 The Pilgrimage of of the Grand Encampment of the United States, the Grand Commandery of California, the delegation of the Grand Priory of England and Wales, the representatives of the Grand Priory of Canada and the majority of the Grand Jurisdictions of the United States, all of which were located at the Palace Hotel." And in keeping with the rich regalias of the august bodies were the superb "decorations of the large parlors, the main assembly room and the fourteen suites of rooms occupied by the distin- guished visitors" — handiwork that reflected much credit to the taste and ingenuity of the resident and other ladies of the State. This was the inaugural to the "receptions and entertainments" announced to be held "at these parlors every day and evening during the Conclave, for which the choicest and rarest talent had been selected and secured. This program was arranged with a desire to present such features to the Eastern visitors that would be entire novelties to them. Among special artists en- gaged for the occasion were natives from China, Japan, the Ha- waiian Islands and the South Sea Islands, appearing in their native costumes, chanting their national airs and hymns, ac- companied also by their native instruments." These, with other specialties, that were open to all, could only be participated in to a limited degree, as it was impossible to be omnipresent — an attribute that would have been required to have cultivated even a moiety of the aforesaid and their counterparts. There was still, however, a considerable portion of the day at the disposal of the members of the Club before the arrival of the evening, though, as before stated, the occasion was not as favor- able, as upon other days, to take in the features of the general situation. It may, therefore, be well to state that in speaking of the different entertainments attended and the localities visited upon this and subsequent days, it may well be borne in mind that the aforesaid limitations to being everywhere at the same time did exist. Therefore, in referring to any locality, it is taken for granted that, while it was visited at some convenient time, one reference to the same must suffice to cover the experi- ences of all. Therefore, as the above-mentioned would not tran- spire until evening, opportunity was afforded the Club to visit The San Francisco Club. points more or less near at hand, upon Market and other con- tiguous streets that were accessible, and presented objects of interest that we might not see if we postponed for a later more convenient season, THE DEPARTMENT STORES. Upon search, some of the department stores were found open for a limited time; ajid, as the ladies have a weakness for such objects of curioso as are there displayed, the opportunity could not be allowed to pass without, at least, a partial indulgence of propensity. A few of the Knights were induced to accom- pany their Ladies into these labyrinths of distraction, and dance attendance at the numerous shrines of elaborate display whose nomenclature is Parisian, but which will also have ofttimes a practical phase in placing under contribution the sterner sex to meet the exactions of the case in the form of pecuniary service. Indeed, it has been said that demonstrations of affec- tion have been known to be quite profuse upon the part of the fair recipients before such acts of deposit have been known to be made. As, however, all gallant Sir Knights are supposed to be loyal to the traditions of the cult, it follows, as but a matter of course, that they should "shell out" liberally, and thus rejoice the heart, while distributing to the adornment of the person. And, as we thus pass from one of these places of interest to another, we are attracted upon all sides by the elab- orate evidences of decorative art displayed upon the facades of every conspicuous building — demonstrative that the gala days have commenced; and that the holiday attire is the specialty of the hour; the gates of welcome being thrown open wide to every guest; the tables spread; and the preparations for the feast of reason and flow of soul elaborated by an unstinted hand for the representative Knights here congregated from all parts of the continent and over the sea. THE DECORATIONS. But, while the decorations under a sun-lit sky are most prodi- gally illustrated in varieties of design and color, that fairly put 256 The Pilgrimage of to test the highest efforts of talent as demonstrated in the col- losal insignia of mounted and helmeted knight upon a like pro- tected and gaily caparisoned steed, lance at rest and shield abreast; or again exhibited in a huge passion cross and crown vis a vis to a like immense maltese cross, or shield at rest and swords transverse — here posed upon the background of some ornate architectural pile; or there adding their increment to the chaste white of some Court of Honor, whose fluted columns and classic capitals adorn the curb-line in pairs and trios ; or in their upper entablatures add to the succession of the adorn- ments of the higher building stories in close rapport thereto. Thus, upon the ]\Iarket street fronts, innumerable banners, en- wreathed in evergreen, and flags festooned in almost bewilder- ing designs bear evidence to the taste of the private citizen; or to that of some dominant mind in management of some mart of trade that, having caught the inspiration of the occasion, vied with each other in excusable emulation as to who would best embody in color and design the joyous associations of a pag- eantry that in the regalia of warfare emphasize the attrac- tions of peace — the sentiment of those that would learn war no more — the implements of the past being now but the sym- bols of a contest waged, not upon the ensanguined field of honor, but upon the broad plain of human sympathies by the cultiva- tion of the amenities of social life. And as the beautiful in- signia of the Order, amid their multitudinous settings, revealed their specific forms under the blaze of the mid-day sun; and, later, glowing under the mellowing reflections of the declining day, only to give place to the radiant sheen of the myriad lights that would so soon dissipate the gathering shadows of the ap- proaching evening. Hence, under the enchanter's wand, the glow of the electric deluge is held in reservation to enswathe facade and tower, pillar and arch, public and private building; or enwrap the improvised piles of court, park and circle in a mantle of incandescent flame, that only decorative genius can devise, and the highest talent of applied science make a prac- tical success. We will not, however, anticipate the visions of the night-watches, but will await the realization of the prophecy The San Francisco Club. 257 now foreshadowed upon ever}^ side, ere dwelling upon the facts of the materialized dream. Therefore, as opportunity is still available to visit one or more points that at a later period of the weeiv will be most densely thronged, some of the Club thought it best to anticipate the leisure of the evening by visiting, during the daylight, the afore-mentioned Palace Hotel — the reputed chief of hostelries of the Occident, and, we may say, the peer of any upon the continent. THE PALACE HOTEL. When erected, some twenty-five or more years ago, it was Tanked as the largest, the most elegantly furnished, and, in most respects, the most complete hostelry in the land. The companion of the -^vTiter was a guest of this hotel some twenty years since; and, therefore, from her description, we admit that we felt some curiosity to see the same, and take in some of its vast proportions and elegance of outfit. Occupying an entire block, bounded by ISTew Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie streets, it covers an area of some 96,000 square feet, being some 345 feet by 365, or in distance around, of just about one-fourth of a mile. And, yet, notwithstanding its immense facilities for the accommodation of its guests in its seven-story apartments, it has absorbed, as an annex, the Grand Hotel, upon the opposite side of New Montgomery street. The Palace Hotel proper is, however, that which most interests the visitor. Upon an entrance into the hotel the first thing that attracts the attention is the grand central court, that confronts the visitor upon passing beyond the threshhold from the New Montgomery street entrance. This enclosure is some 140 feet by 85, upon the ground floor, and upon looking upward it is seen to be kept open to the roof, 115 feet from the floor — the same being primarily a lighting shaft; and, hence, roofed over with glass and afi'ording a roof promenade of one-third of a mile continuous walk. The inter- mediate seven stories have each ornamental column-guarded and balustraded balconies passing around the four sides of the said shaft at each floor — the columns at the ends being arranged 17 258 The Pilgrimage of in pairs (their pedestals being a part of the balustrade), the columns upon the sides being in groups of four in a line — the central two resting upon the same pedestal; and the outer two having each a separate one, and wider spaced from each con- tiguous column, than the central two are from each other; thus enhancing the effect as seen in a continuous line from the point of observation. This columnar unifornity is observed from the floor of the second story to that of the seventh — the top floor having only the balustrade and the pedestals corresponding to those of the floors below, but supporting urns of tropical plants that luxuriate in the intenser light there prevailing, while guarding the inner floor limits of a canopied promenade of most ample dimensions. The first story of this court being twenty-seven feet high, has arched entrance ways, supported also by columns in style similar to those above, but terminating at the spring of the arch. The foreground of the ground floor of the court is filled with palms, cacti, rubber and other plants, flourishing in all the luxuriance of a conservatory, while the background is separated therefrom by a series of columns supporting centrally a semi-circular en- tablature surmounted by a balustrade, whose posts are pedestals supporting urns of tropical plants, as in the case of the seventh floor — the diameter side of said semi-circle, in consequence of being shorter than the breadth of the court, is connected termi- nally by rectangular projections of the entablature that are pro- longed to central open archways of the sides — each projection being supported by two pairs of identical columns. These col- umns, the floor balustrade, and the plants of the foreground serve as a screen to the background space that is utilized as a special lunch room. It is, therefore, recalled that by this balus- trade and columnar arrangement each floor has its promenade around the central court, or shaft, from which entrances are made to the rooms contiguous thereto. Hence, opening upon the first floor promenade are the offices, reception and reading rooms, the parlors, the breakfast and dining-rooms. Upon the second floor are found the chief or grand parlors, and the wide communicating halls, that were particularly utilized upon this The San Francisco Club. 259 Grand Encampment occasion, and were particularly adapted thereto. The rooms of all the floors are spacious and number some 1,500 sleeping apartments and 900 bath rooms — all of which are most handsomely furnished. The cost of the furniture and carpeting preparatory to the original opening was estimated to have reached the enormous figure of $500,000 ; and the build- ing itself at $6,500,000, which has no doubt been increased in later years by the improvements necessitated by the demands of modern hotel life. The chief external material is white marble, the roof being of tin, the partitions of brick, and the cornice of zinc and iron. It is, therefore, seen that such a vast weight of material must require an immensely strong foundation and most formidable upper sustaining walls. This, we learned, is the case, as shown by the following data that we got from original sources, some fifteen years since : "The foundation walls are twelve feet thick — all others rang- ing from one and one and a half to four and one-half in thickness. The foundation walls, at their base, are built with inverted arches. All exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet, com- mencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket work, filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used increases in every story toward the roof, and in the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart. Besides the city water works, a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, which have a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. A reser- voir is located under the central court, capable of holding 630,000 gallons. On the roof are seven tanks, which hold 128,000 gallons. The hotel is supplied with two steam force pumps for water, and two additional for fire." It is, therefore, seen even by the cursory observer, that elegance of appointments are liberally combined with a maximum of safety — two requi- sites that are of prime consideration to an exacting public, and now demanded by those whom business or pleasure require to leave their homes for a more or less limited period. 260 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXXIV. OTHER HOTELS. By way of digression, while we are speaking of hostelries in particular, it may not be out of place to refer to one or more additional ones that have of late come into prominent notice, and which now divide much profitable patronage with the Palace, and will continue to do so, even to a greater extent in the future. Among these are the St. Francis, a twelve-story structure, con- sisting of two wings and a separating court, that face Union Square, and which, with its chaste beauty of architecture and location, make it a most exceptional attraction at this time, in addition to its merits as a first-class hostelry. The said attrac- tion of Union Square arises from the fact that here is located the famous monument erected in commemoration of Admiral Dewey's victory at Manila, and that, during Conclave week, this square is transformed into a Court of Honor and made particu- larly a centre of attraction by its electrical display that is a fit counterpart to those of Market street. Fairmount Hotel, which is now under process of erection, is spoken of as being designed from the capital invested, and the elaborate plans adopted in its construction and equipment, to be ■one of the most magnificent hostelries in the world. It is planned to contain five hundred sleeping apartments, each sup- plied with a bath annex, in addition to a much more than propor- tionate number of sitting rooms, with private dining-rooms, a banquet cafe, ball and promenade rooms, enclosed gardens and conservatories and all additional appliances requisite to afford its guests the luxuries of the most elaborately equipped private homes. The Occidental and the California have each the reputation of being hotels of established and well-earned reputations. Pitts- burg Commandery No. 1 is quartered at the latter hotel. Among the forty-five additional hotels whose merits have been The San Francisco Club. 261 recommended as of such reputation as entitled them to knightly- patronage, we do not find any mention of the Euss House. Hence, we cannot but ask, in the language of an eminent con- temporarj' — "What is the matter with the Euss House?" Echo answers — "Matter, with Euss House." OTHEE DIVEETISEMENTS. But the associations of the day crowd upon us, and we must pass on. Hence, we may say, from the standpoint of what we have already seen and heard from those qualified to express an opinion that, never before in the history of the city, and we may say upon no previous occasion in any city, have such elaborate preparations for the entertainment of the Order been made, as those on this occasion, for the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave of the Grand Encampment of the Knights Templar of America. While the celebration proper of this event was scheduled to continue from the 5th to the 9th of September, inclusive, yet arrivals of the Sir Knights and their Ladies were anticipated for days previous — an expectation that the facts of the climate justified, as based upon the knowledge that the weather at this season of the year would admit of the leading features of the display continuing unimpaired for some days, both before and after published dates, and thus continuously to "greet and glad the eye" of both the early comers and the late loiterers in the Metropolis of the Pacific — facts that no other locality, from a weather standpoint, would admit of. The provisions made for the reception of one hundred and twelve special trains from distant points, and the multitudes of unannounced Knights and their friends, proved that the preparations made were none too ample to meet the demand. The arrival of the Grand Encampment of the United States, headed by the Grand Master, Most Eminent Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, with his official family and other distinguished guests, representing the most exalted Masonic bodies of both hem- ispheres, on August 29th, opened the festival proper. The jour- ney of this magnificently-equipped Special is said to have been the most triumphant pilgrimage across the continent that has 262 The Pilgrimage of occurred since the opening of the trans-continental lines, and the statement is no doubt correct, upon the ground of the experi- ence of the San Francisco Club in their participation in a like pilgrimage to the same objective point, and under similar au- spices. The first appearance of the Grand Encampment, accompanied by the Grand Commandery of California, in its official capacity upon the street, we were informed, was upon the Sabbath of the 4th inst., under the escort of the Golden Gate Commandery No. 16, marching from their headquarters, at Palace Hotel, to the First Congregational Church, of which the Eev, George Adams is pastor — the sermon of the occasion being preached by the Very Eminent Sir Daniel C. Eoberts, Grand Prelate of the Grand Encampment. The church was handsomely decorated in honor of the occasion. After the conclusion of the services, the Grand bodies were escorted back to their headquarters, and re- lease from further official duties for the day was duly announced. EESUME. But to return to the resumption of the thread of the record, we remark that, having at this juncture, absorbed about all coming under our observation that was suggested as a prepara- tory to what had been announced as the program of the later evening and the morrow, there was a general gathering of the Club wanderers at the Puss headquarters, with appetites whetted by exercise, and, hence, ready to discuss practically the bill of fare of our first dinner in said hostelry. This incident having passed without special epicurean notice being evoked, the strenu- ous and their ladies assembled in the vestibule drawing-room and compared notes upon the situation. Meanwhile, having been informed that the Officers and their Ladies of the Pilgrim Com- mandery had arranged to hold a reception at the Palace, the matter of a general participation in the festivities thereof was in order. Moreover, as this was the first function of the ser- vices that we might be called upon to have a part in, there was a unanimous desire expressed to put in an appearance thereat, and thus show our loyalty to our home institutions, The San Francisco Clvh. 263 as well as, later, to those with which we affiliate. Since there were, however, a number of like functions materializing at the same time at the respective headquarters of the many com- manderies here domiciled, the throngs radiating to these respec- tive rallying points were great, and, hence, progress to our own was necessarily slow and, therefore, more or less discouraging. Besides, some of our Knights had failed to obey the orders duly circulated, enjoining upon all to appear in full regalia, that they might gain admittance to the reception parlor. Therefore, when the door thereto was reached, the unclothed were excluded by the inexorable policeman there stationed, with instruction to en- force the said rule. In reflecting upon the lot of these dis- gruntled, we were forcibly reminded of the New Testament parable of the marriage feast at which a guest was found not having upon him a wedding garment, and upon having been ex- postulated with for having violated a well-known custom, and, being speechless, was, therefore, justly excluded. So these Sir Knights, not being duly arrayed in their regalia, were excluded from a participation in the crowning finale of the Pilgrimage, viz, the code recognition of our special official representatives as a part of the general officiar}', at the lawfully constituted and duly warranted place of Triennial Conclave, and for which we had crossed the continent. But, like the wedding guest, they knew the law, although an ignorance thereof would have been no justification for its violation. We trust, however, that the relevancy of the parable may find no further application. More- over, the sequel proved that the law-abiding were admitted to the presence, and the reception by the Officials of the Grand Com- mandery and their Ladies were in line to receive those that were duly qualified to do them honor. The reception, therefore, being admittedly a part of the res gestae, as the legal fraternity would certify, it is well here to mention the names of the ladies receiving, that the record may not be open to the charge of undue abbreviation. Hence, the same are as follows : Mrs. Donaldson, Beitler, Diehl, Fryberger, Cunningham, Copelin, Forney, Knight, Warren, Weirick, Heinitsch, Patter- g64 The Pilgrimage of son, Helmbold, Brown, Miss Hembold, Miss Eby and Miss Knight. These formalities having thus been duly observed, both the re- ceiving and the received, were free to mingle socially, and in un- restrained converse dwell upon the initial experiences of the day, and the anticipations of what were in store for us upon the mor- row. Finally, after partaking of light refreshments that neither oppressed nor inebriated, we found ourselves free to spend the rest of the evening in roving at will through the almost in- terminable corridors in a further absorption of the facts of our immediate environment, amid the blaze of an incandescence that converted the place into a fairy-land, though aware that the inhabitants of such a realm could have no conception of such a scene as this. Or, laying aside for the time being, a more than cursory examination of the refulgent scene, the Knights and their Ladies were at leisure to pass without into a more re- fulgent glare, like unto that of the solar luminary traveling in the zenith of his strength. We, therefore, joined the latter also, before we were willing to close the annals of the 5th of Septem- ber, 1904. Passing out by the IMarket street exit, we are ushered into the presence of the triumph of street illumination, as shown primarily in the transformation of this great thoroughfare of the city into a continuous arcade of light by a resort to the use of means effectual and 3^et most simple. The initial step taken was to plant substantial flag-staffs some thirty feet apart along the opposite curb line vis a vis to each other, the tops of each being united by a horizontal wire, from which were pendant centrally a pair of more flexible ones — one of which was returned to the staff adjacent thereto, about midway of its height and the other to the opposite staff, at a like height of elevation — each of which being then caught up to a measured distance from the medial line of the street upon each side thereof. By this ar- rangement two convex curves upon each side of said medial line were made that constituted the initial contour of the continuous canopy, as each of these combinations of curves were pro- jected by the eye to its next similar combination, and, thence. The San Francisco Club. 265 continuously until, in the distance, all seemed to come together and thus to complete the canopy to one standing in the middle of the street, and looking up or down the broad avenue. The illusion is then made complete upon these curved lines being thickly strung with innumerable bulbs of incandescent lamps and made continuous each to each in the same plane for the distance of two and a half miles from the ferry terminus to the resident district, extending diagonally through the city. Also, at the intersection of the principal cross thoroughfares with Market street, special courts of honor were displayed; some con- sisting of huge bell-like pendants, whose upper disk or crown is connected at its periphery by numberless cords, with a gigantic circular band of a much greater diameter — the said cords being strung with thousands of vari-colored lamps that, in connection with the emblazoned shields and various other knightly in- signia pendant from the said band or run, unite to produce an effect that, having been seen, will ever remain indelibly im- pressed upon the retina of memory. THE FLAG-STAFFS. Not, however, as mere anchors were the said flag-staffs, utilized, but also as the supports of banners, flags, streamers and the variety of Templar insignia that enwreathed and illuminated, at points above the eaves of the canopy, with their special incandescents stood thus in gorgeous and in- terminable array as beacons to relieve the upper spaces by adding an enfilade of beauteous designs in color that seem to mock the iris, and in vermilion-tinted reflections defy the shades of night, as well as the powers of description, to stamp their realism successfully upon the page, if we would have them endure longer than the realities of Conclave week. But not upon flag-staff and canopy alone do we see the visions of electric triumph, for, turning aside to the courts of honor of Union Square (as already adverted to), or the columnar groups upon North Market street, whose chaste beauty has been referred to as bathed in the sheen of a resplendent sun, and now behold its transformation as festooned with many-colored 266 The Pilgrimage of bulbs that enwreathe the fluted shafts, or peep out in similar rosettes among the acanthus leaved capitals, or embellish the combination of entablatures that crown the pairs, trios and quadruple groups of pillars that, right and left, stand vis a vis to like structures upon the opposite curb line. ILLUMINATION OF BUILDINGS. And now, turning from these centres of attraction of the street and curb, we lift our eyes to the facades of the buildings facing the thoroughfare, and here, also, we behold a rivalry of designs, lights and colors that further contribute to diversify the enchanting scene. THE STATE CAPITAL. But, again, looking still higher, as we approach the inter- sections of Tenth and L streets, we behold the miracle of il- lumination of that most noble pile of the Pacific coast, the State Capital. The prominent pilastered wings and columnar front of the central building, located upon a three-terraced site, and standing with dimensions of 350 feet by 190, independent of the dome-crowned tower of the centre, that lifts its graceful form to an additional equal elevation above the basal structure, supply a most conspicuous pile for the display of illuminative art. Directing our gaze to these upper heights, the balcony sur- rounding the upper base of the tower, with its twenty-four fluted Corinthian columns, affords special facilities for illumination l)y the enwrappin<]: of these noble shafts with cords of incan- descent bulbs, while not overlooking the surmountaing balus- trade of the said balcony, with its ornate finish and glowing lamps. Or, again, and yet higher, the second tower section appears, with its exterior prominent pilasters corresponding in number and position with the columns of the lower section ; and, therefore, equally susceptible of a like incandescent garniture, but, at the same time, of a contrasted design with that adopted in the illumination of the main metallic dome by means of ribs of thickly-strung bulbs, whose lines converge to the base of the lantern finial, whose panels are separated by another tier of The San Francisco Club. 267 fluted Corinthian columns, twelve in number, that, in turn, sup- port the finial dome, upon which rests the pedestal of the Statue of California, that, in turn, invites the last touch of pyrotechnic splendor, as she looks down upon her robes of light, and, thence, beyond to the city, 'neath her feet, wrapped in a flood of like electric glory — the counterpart of an illumination that finds its loftiest expression in the aureole that encircles her brow. Hence, the harmony is complete and nothing more of consummation seems desirable. Therefore, while the capitol stands guard at the northern terminus of the illuminated district, the ferry house, under the transforming agency of a like electric inspira- tion, performs a like function at the eastern portal of the Golden Gate. The climax of artistic effort has been reached. Ne plus ultra becomes our shibboleth, as we turn our foot- steps toward the Euss House, and beneath its roof dream of the land where the lights never grow dim, and the eye never quails, even though "there be no night there, and no need of candle, nor light of the sun." 0/ \i> COO 268 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXXV. THE GRAND PARADE. September 6th (Tuesday), the day of the grand parade of the assembled thousands of Templars, was ushered in under most auspicious circumstances, though in the early hours thereof a misty pall rested upon the lower city. All of the Pilgrim con- tingent were in early readiness, however, to follow our gallant leader, Em. Sir Knight Lewis E. Beitler, and forthwith falling into line were conducted to our station on Stockton street, to await the command of assignment to our allotted place in the memorable procession. After several marches and counter- marches, we, at length, reached our said assigned place, and at 10 A. M. the official movement began. ORDER OF PARADE. It will be recalled by the Pilgrims that were in line, that the order of formation was by divisions, that of the First Division being headed by twenty-five picked men of the mounted police of San Francisco, under the command of Chief of Police Sir Ejiight George W. Wittman, with Em. Sir Knight Charles L. Field as Commander of the Parade, he being Grand Captain General of California, with Past Grand Commander Right Em. Sir Frank W. Summer as Chief of Division. Then followed, in order, the bodies of the California Com- mandery No. 1, Em. Sir Charles M. Plum, Commander, as spe- cial escort to the Grand Master. Then came the first carriage, bearing the Most Em. Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, Grand Master of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United States of America; and the Most Em. the Earl of Euston, Grand Master of the Great Priory of England and Wales. Second Carriage — R. E. Sir George M. Moulton, Deputy The San Francisco Chib. 269 Grand Master of the Grand Encampment ; and V. E. Charles F. Matier, K. C. T., Great yice-Chancellor of the Great Priory. Other officers of the Grand Encampment followed in car- riages. Golden Gate Commandery, ISTo. 16, Em. Sir B. Code, Com- mander, as special escort to the Grand Encampment, ]\Iembers of the Grand Encampment, and visitors from other Grand Juris- dictions in carriages. These completed the First Grand Di- vision. Other Divisions. It would, no doubt, interest the entire membership of the San Francisco Club to be able to recall some of the more special features of each of the twelve divisions that constituted the make-up of the parade, but as this would involve too much matter of detail, these will have to be passed over, except in the case of the Fifth Division, which was assigned to the Keystone State. The reason of this distinction was that Pennsylvania was the only State that had a sufficient number of Commanderies represented to constitute a complete division, excepting, of course, the home State of California. In all other cases a di- vision was made up of at least two States, viz, Massachusetts and Ehode Island composing the Second Division; or, of the maxi- mum of twelve States, in the case of the Eighth Division. Penn- sylvania, however, was represented by fourteen Commanderies and two Clubs, whose combined membership, including the ladies accompanying the Sir Knights, was something over twelve hundred. Hence, it may readily be admi1:ted that at least 50 per cent, of these were Knights. To refer, however, specifically to some of the leading features of the Fifth Division we may say, if we were not mistaken in our observations, that the same was preceded by the Grand Standard Bearer, Grand Weid- man, who, in a carriage, held aloft the white and black beauseant of the Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania. Accompanying him w-ere the Sir Knights W. C. Helmbold and W. C. Smith. 270 The Pilgrimage of With the Pennsylvanians rode two Past Grand Masters, the Hon. Jas. H. Hojikins, former Lieutenant-Governor of Pennsylvania, and General John P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon. We should have said that the Eight Em. Wilson I. Fleming, mounted on a champing white steed, headed the Division, while, to the rear of the Grand Standard Bearer, marched the Sir Knights of the Grand Comraandery of Pennsylvania — and then, in due order, the subordinate Commanderies of the same. Among the latter, as conspicuous, was the Pittsburg Commandery, No. 1, that is said to be the largest in the world, and paraded 150 strong. They marched to the music of Cassasa's Band, the members of which were uniformed in scarlet. The Kadosh Commandery, No. 29, was also prominent for its beautiful silk beauseant, which had been presented to the Commandery by their ladies. The Corinthian Chasseurs (mounted) also presented a very imposing appearance. To attempt, however, in further comment to give anything like an adequate conception of the appearance and evolutions of the thousands of the seried host, in their nodding plumes of black and white, of lace and plate, decked in all the colors of the rainbow, would be a matter of impossibility, as also to note the incidents by the way, amid the plaudits of the myriads of spectators that welcomed the heroes of the hour, would entail a task for which we acknowledge our incapacity, even though the effort were demanded. It will not, however, be amiss, in passing, to state that, while the Sir Knights of the Club marched in measured step and time, with head erect and eye aglow under the martial strains that lent their inspiration to the ever- changing environment, still the conscious presence of a torrid sun of 90 degrees tested full well their physical endurance, as they ascended that part of VanNess avenue, that was fitly dubbed the SAN JUAN HILL of the day's campaign. As one describing that feature of the march has graphically said — "Odessa was not in it; and the plains where Godfrey Boullion charged in his inaugural inspira- tion, could not have been more sore to the foot and more diffi- The San Francisco Cluh. 271 cult of passage to their standard bearers and their loyal fol- lowers. History lost all its romance at VanNess avenue and Sutter street, and a rapid fire cannon could not have pumped the inspiration of the Crusades into a Knight Templar of the latter day at this aggravating place of countermarch. But the Knights were game, as of yore, and struggled to keep in line and pass the reviewing stand with head and plumes still high, step steady and evident unconsciousness of strength taxed to the limit almost of endurance. The footway previous to the ascent of the declivity having been concreted, offered no rough surfaces to the now heavy feet of the tramping hosts, but the obtruding ledges and the loose rolling stones of the hillside united to test wind and muscle, as the panting, perspiring, dis- mounted cavaliers trudged along; and, therefore, excusable, if suggestive, of the monotony of the dead march. Eallying each other to mount the summit without faltering, and reminding the novices that the sun was not more powerful than upon like occasions in the East, upon the earlier days of the Grand En- campment, we succeeded in awakening latent energies to the extent that the summit was scaled and the countermarch was commenced. Even the writer enlisted the sympathy of the by- standers of the curb, when one more impulsive than those by his side, cried out — "See, even that old man is sticking to it." We could but doff our chapeau, as we smiled at the thought that our loose-flowing locks, though gray, should betoken age, since we were conscious that our muscles were yet strong to traverse the miles of our return to the point of the morning rendezvous, and the reviewing stand — still expectant that we would pass with undepleted ranks. Some of the Knights thought the line of march cruelly long and adversely criticised those that had so mapped the same. We were not, however, of this opinion, for the reason that we believed that no such demonstrations of welcome, as we had witnessed and been the subjects of, could have materialized in any other city than that of San Francisco, with like unanimity of popular sentiment; and, hence, it was but natural that the 200,000 spectators that had made the same possible should have ample opportunity of witnessing the pa- 272 The Pilgrimage of rade, and, therefore, to assure this possibility the line had to be prolonged. Hence, the large majorit}' of the Pilgrims felt like still hold- ing on so long as it was possible, that we might thus contribute our part in appreciation of what we consider, without fear of denial, as being the best Templar exhibit that we have ever seen (and we have attended the majority of the Conclaves since '71), or expect to see — during the period still left us of our earthly pilgrimage. Had the facilities been better for dis- tributing pure water instead of a partial supply of a mineral compound during the march, we feel assured that our dis- comfort from the heat would have been materially less, and, therefore, the disposition to drop out of line would have been but little yielded to. Desertion, however, commenced soon after the descent of the said San Juan Hill; and thus silently our ranks began to deplete, although we still made a very good showing, as we passed in review before the grand stand. Eeference need not now be made to the reviewing officers by name, as we passed before them, they having been already men- tioned individually as occupying the carriages that headed the First Division of the Parade. Upon the arrival of the carriages at the grand stand, the officers alighted therefrom and occupied their respective positions — the stand being located on VanNess avenue, in near proximity to Market street. In passing the same, some of us, we admit, did not get as good a view of the respective personages as we would have liked, and that partly on account of our attention having been diverted for the mo- ment by the attractions of the ladies upon the stand opposite. OTHER EEVIEWING STANDS. We have referred to the stand opposite to that occupied by the Officers of the Grand Encampment; and, hence, it appears to be appropriate to add, further, that, through the courtesy of the Committee of Arrangements of our Club, preparations had there been made for the accommodation of our ladies, in addition to some seats reserved upon the grand stand; and, therefore, no apprehension was felt that the ladies would be deprived of a The San Francisco Club. 273 good view of the entire procession, without any discomfort, ex- cept, of course, from the heat. It was estimated that there were a thousand or more ladies and children accommodated upon that one stand alone. This stand, however, was but one of many that occupied both sides of VanNess avenue, at intervals of about two blocks, and these, also, were filled to their utmost capacity by ladies, children and a few men. These stands, taken in connection with the mass of people upon the sidewalks, re- vealed an assemblage that was said to be the largest that this avenue had ever before accommodated to see a parade. This, also, being chiefly a residential part of the city, greater facilities were afforded for the erection of stands than in the more busy sections of Market street, where the crowds were confined to the sidewalks and the windows of the lofty buildings that were equally well patronized. We must now, however, return to our marching fraters, as we proceed down Market street, after leaving the reviewing stand. Desertions have now commenced in earnest, as we sweep on- ward after the remnants of the preceding Divisions and the Commanderies of our own, toward the lower sections of the city, even though the crowds still stand as if loath to forsake their points of observation. And now, upon our turning into New Montgomery street, and our arrival at our headquarters, there are but four of us, besides our gallant leader, remaining in the ranks upon the roadway; although others insist that while they had fallen out of the ranks they had followed upon the pavement, and were but a short dis- tance in the rear of the remnant that came from the street, with step still firm and true, as we entered the Russ House. We do not, however, dispute the allegations of those that claim a like honor with the immortal four and their Commander, that bear the labor and heat of the day, under orders, to the close, and, therefore, clung to the street-way even to the last. EEMINISCENCES OF THE MAECH. The mid-hour of the afternoon chronicled the return to their respective headquarters of the participants in the parade — the 18 374 The Pilgrimage of estimated number of men in line, including the musicians and drum corps, was 8,000, and the time of procession by a given point was two hours and fifty-five minutes. In regard to our own opportunity to view the procession at all in detail, this, of course, could be afforded us only upon the countermarch, and, therefore, was a matter of much gratification, particularly in the case of those Commanderies that had at- tained a high state of efficiency in the execution of interesting and intricate evolutions while on the march. N"ot, however, to make invidious distinctions, we may say that the most conspicu- ous were the infantry of the Golden Gate Commandery, that occupied the centre of the First Division, and rendered them- selves conspicuous by the perfection of their execution of diffi- cult evolutions in the various crosses of the Order. And, in the cavalry branch of the California Commandery, fancy figures were performed without a break. THE AFTERMATH. But to return again to the thread of our narrative. Upon our return to the Euss House, we were not long in availing ourselves of a hasty ablution, and, upon doffing our Templar trappings, we seat ourselves to enjoy a well-earned dinner, resting, mean- while, during the filling of our respective orders. Dinner over, we complete a more elaborate rehabilitation of person, prepara- tory to taking a walk for exercise, while others, complaining of fatigue and somewhat somnolent, seek a siesta. The writer took advantage of the broken afternoon to call upon friends; and, subsequently, with others, called at headquarters of committees, to procure tickets for such entertainments or festal occasions as were available for visitors upon application. Eeturning at an early hour for supper, and being refreshed thereby, a portion of the Knights again start out to take the rounds of the recep- tions announced, while others seize the opportunity to rest still further, or to entertain friends who called, while others, again, strolled along the streets of the illuminated district and ab- sorbed, to their satisfaction, as already adverted to, the scenes there disclosed, that, in their elaborateness, admitted of many The San Francisco Club. 375 repetitions of view, that would not pall upon the beholder, were they dwelt upon never so often. Others attend the reception held by the San Jose Command- ery, No. 1, at Mechanics' Pavilion. Others, that of the Golden Gate Commandery, at Golden Gate Hall, and others, again, still partial to home institutions, attend the reception of Pittsburg Commandery, No. 1, our oldest Commandery of the Keystone State. Eepresented by 283 Knights, they showed the largest delegation visiting the Conclave, excepting only the combined Commanderies of Los Angeles and Pasadena, and that of Oak- land, which is really a suburb of San Francisco. These re- ceptions of the Golden Gate Commandery are ever conducted upon the most magnificent scale — their hospitality being shown in the fact that they announce "open house" from September 3 to the close of Conclave. A SPECIALTY. The prince of receptions was that tendered to Grand Master Stoddard, at the Palace Hotel, in the main parlors, upon the second floor. As reported, it was a most magnificent affair. "The Grand Master stood in the north wing to receive his guests. Immediately at his left was the Earl of Euston. Next came the suite of the distinguished visitor. The Sir Knights in the party were dressed in their uniforms, with full regalia. The Earl was in evening dress, adorned with his badge of the oflfice of the Order he represents. The Ladies of the party were superbly gowned and carried magnificent bouquets of beautiful roses. "The reception began at 8 o'clock, and, so far as the guests of honor and the illustrious visitor were concerned, it ended at 9 :30 o'clock, when the entire party were driven out to the Me- chanics' Pavilion, where they visited the difi^erent Commanderies that there had their headquarters. During the reception, it was estimated that 5,000 people called to pay their respects to the Grand Master. The decorations were most lavish. The walls of the three big reception rooms were almost entirely hidden from view by masses of tropical foliage. In the main room of 276 The Pilgrimage of the reception there was a great mass of fragrant tiger lilies, while the side walls were embellished with hop vines. The complete floral display was such only as the wealth of the Golden State can aftord. "Indeed, the entire place looked like a gorgeous conservatory. Every kind of flower was in evidence. The magnificence of the display even amazed the Californians. The great clusters of American Beauty roses that were everywhere apparent excited admiration on all sides. A band of music played during the entire reception. In the south reception room, which was also superbly decorated, delicious refreshments were served. Al- though the reception proper ended with the departure of the chief guest, crowds of people continued to pour through the rooms until long after mid-night. Evening dress was distinctly the rule. The Knights were all in uniform, while the visiting Ladies were all robed in beautiful ball dresses. The display of diamonds and magnificent jewels was a particular feature also." Hence, with the aforesaid multitudinous means of entertain- ment at their disposal, is it to be wondered at that the Sir Knights and their Ladies lamented that they could not be ubiquitous. Therefore, the next best thing was to get a homeo- pathic share, at least, of each passing reality by flitting, upon the wings of expedition, to and from as many of such, in due order, as endurance would admit of. And yet a limit was im- periously imposed, not only from a muscular standpoint, but also on account of the time consumed and the space traversed in passing from one centre of attraction to another. Hence, notice of the receptions at the Mechanics' Pavilion will have to come in later, Menwhile, a recharging of the physical battery com- pels a return to the Euss Hotel, and, therefore, the finale of the day is sounded. Tlie San Francisco Club. 277 CHAPTER XXXVI. THE FUETHEE PEOGEAM. September 7th. The apparent centre of attraction for this day, Wednesday, to probably the most of the visitors, was, no doubt, that of the competitive drill bulletined to come off at 10 A. M., at the Golden Gate Park. But while this so-called event of the day was supposed to appeal more strongly to the Knights, rather than to their Ladies, yet there were other di- versions that offered to the visitors most attractive substitutes therefore, particularly since the limited time at our disposal would not admit of our enjoying all. Among these attractions, were the very delightful excursions down the San Francisco Bay and through the Golden Gate by the steamers Oakland or Tamal- pais, that were free to the visitors, either in the morning at 9 :45 or afternoon at 1 o'clock. The WTiter having selected the latter, was necessarily unable to witness the evolutions of the competi- tive Sir Knights upon the field, and, therefore, was compelled to depend upon the report of another, who was an eye-witness thereof. Hence, a brief statement of the same is herewith sub- mitted. "Fully 25,000 people gathered on the sloping lawns, surround- ing the Park base-ball grounds to view the drills. Four corps, in all, competed for the prizes. The Louisville delegation, com- nianded by Captain Frank Fehr, was the first to drill, and promptly at 10 o'clock, headed by their own Commandery Band playing "Dixie," they filed into the enclosed space, where the drills were held. After a turn across the field and back, the Kentuckians came to attention before the judges of the drill, and were subjected to a critical inspection. Having passed the same, the corps was turned over to Captain Fehr, commanding olficer, and the tactics, as laid down by the jurisdiction of Cali- fornia, were commenced. Movements in the School of the Sir Knight, the School of the Commandery and the Manual of the Sword were gone through. 278 The Pilgrimage of "From the first, it was evident that the Kentuekians were won- derfully well trained. Their alignment was perfect in every re- spect. The movements of hands and feet were as one man, and whenever a particularly brilliant movement was executed the spectators broke into round after round of cheers. Thirty minutes was allowed each corps to go through the schedule of movements, and the Louisville corps finished in ample time and marched from the field to the tune of "My Old Kentucky Home." "The Malta Commandery Corps, No. 21, of Binghamton, N. Y., was next to take the field. Captain A. W. T. Black, com- manded the corps. The New Yorkers gave a fine exhibition of drilling, but were much slower in the execution of movements than was the Louisville corps. Before the entire schedule of movements could be completed the Malta corps was recalled on account of the expiration of the time limit. "The crack St. Bernard Corps, of Chicago, was the third to drill. This Corps has won the championship in the competitive drills several times, and was looked on as well nigh invincible. The Sir Knights from the Windy City were received with tre- mendous cheering, as they appeared on the field, headed by the California Commandery Band. In decided contrast to the long, easy strides and apparent ease of the Louisville Corps, were the sharp, quick movements of the Chicagoans. The St. Bernard Knights were granted a special dispensation from the California Committee to drill according to their own tactics in several of the required manoeuvres, while the balance of the Corps were compelled to use the Summer tactics. Though the opinion was prevalent that this dispensation might afford a great advantage to the St. Bernard Corps, yet the Kentuekians did not object and agreed to abide by the Judges' decision. "The last competitors were the Ivanhoe Commandery Drill Corps, of Milwaukee, commanded by Captain D. Milton Jones. This Corps made a very favorable impression with the spectators and was continually applauded, but their work was not up to that of either the Louisville or St. Bernard Corps. "Each of the competing Corps was marked on the basis of The San Francisco Club. 279 810 points — three for each of the 270 movements. The judges, three in number, were all officers of the United States Army. These followed closely every one of the movements, and mark- ings were made to the second decimal place. The exact stand- ing of each was as follows: Louisville, 779.54; St. Bernard, 771.14; Ivanhoe, 725.03; and Malta, 655.82. Hence, the con- sensus of opinion was that the Blue Grass Men won a clean-cut and decided victory." While deprived, therefore, of witnessing the competitive drill that is source of great pleasure to every Knight, when such are executed in the perfection that prevails upon such occasions as this, yet we are happy to say that those of us who selected the bay in lieu thereof felt fully compensated by our experiences in having made this choice. To many of us the enjoyment of this privilege was now the first opportunity of our lives of looking upon this world re- nowned seaport, that we may say ranks, those of the world in its area and land-locked features — a port in which all the navies of earth could rendezvous, and still have room for as many more. The temperature of the atmosphere upon the water was most agreeable — the heat of the full-orbed sun being modified by the gentle breeze that came in from the sea; and the transparent air magnifying and bringing out into sharp detail the points of interest passed in our passage outward and upon the return. Thus environed and transported, we were in a position to take in somewhat the extent and characteristic features of the watery expanse. SAN" FEANCISCO BAY. The dimensions of the bay are reported to be, in length, some 50 miles, varying in breadth from 3 to 15 miles, and in being amply protected from hostile invasion. It may readily be un- derstood what an immense auxiliary is thus afforded in estab- lishing and supporting a constantly growing prestige. Sur- rounded, too, upon all sides by a most prolific agricultural region of varied products that the sun shines upon, in addition to the vast mineral products within easy reach, we can readily compre- 280 The Pilgrimage of hend why the countries of foreign lands, as well as our own Eastern States, strive for a portion of its trade. The terminus of our great trans-continental routes and the chief port of entry for the inexhaustible markets beyond the sea, contribute to spe- cialize the important function of this sheet of water, upon which we now enjoy an outing, and to impress the same upon us. In our course of encircling the bay, we pass, in turn, Goat Island, that lies directly upon the line from the Market Street Ferry Building, to the Oakland pier, and is one of the most prominent islands in San Francisco harbor. It is the seat of the Training Station of the United States. It has an' area of 350 acres, and rises 340 feet above the water. After an enjoy- able passage of some half hour passed in social converse with our agreeable surroundings of Sir Knights and their Ladies from other jurisdictions of the East, as well as from the State of our hosts; and, participating with them in sampling the lux- uriant grapes and other fruits supplied us by the bounteous pur- veyors of the excursion — side issues, these, that contribute much, to sharpen the social amenities, as well as enliven the physical maw — we approach and now find ourselves skirting ALCATEAZ ISLAND. This island is the site of the military prison that stands, formidable and isolated, thereon, and apparently as unassail- able as the huge mass of rock, of which it is composed, that protrudes its bleak sides from the depths of the bay. In area, it is about one-third of a mile long by one-tenth of a mile wide, and is guarded by one company of heavy artillery. It is also the seat of the Submarine Torpedo Station, fog-bell and light- house ; and, hence, is advantageously situated, facing the Golden Gate. ANGEL ISLAND. In turn, we next pass Angel Island, the largest in the bay. It contains some 600 acres of land, much of which is under suc- cessful cultivation. Its location is also very eligible for harbor defense, and is, therefore, equipped with formidable batteries. The San Francisco Club. 281 mostly of heavy gims. Permanent barracks are here erected, also, for the contingent of artillerists. THE PEESIDIO. Meanwhile, we pass the Presidio, the principal military post of the Pacific coast, that, for its beauty of situation is un- equalled by any other military barracks in the United States. Situated upon a broad area of 1,500 acres, beautified by dark pines and still darker firs, with its perfect lawns and bordering plants and flowers, it has acquired the name of the "Oasis of San Francisco." Some of the members of the Club enjoyed the privilege of a special visit to the same, while others of us had to be content with the view afforded from the steamer's deck, as it presented its sweeping incline in command of the magnifi- cent bay over which we glide. Having passed boldly out to sea, through the Golden Gate, we circle toward the northern shore, in full view of MT. TAMALPAIS and thus catch glimpses of its wonderful railway, that, in many respects, is said to eclipse that of Mt. Lowe, that so many of the Club have so recently patronized. This mountain-climbing rail- way is not, however, a "cog road," like the afore-mentioned ; nor are its inclines as steep, but the grade is gradual, at an average of but five feet to the hundred. It bears, however, the distinc- tion of being the "crookedest" railway line in the world. Being compelled to rest content with our limited view from the deck of the steamer, we were unable to verify a description of the very graphic ascent of which we had read, and, therefore, beg leave to give an extract therefrom as among the attractions within our reach, and yet so far. "There are 281 curves in a distance of eight and one-fifth miles, during which there is an ascent of about 2,500 feet, or nearly a half-mile, the steepest grade being about 7 per cent. If, in following the tortuous curves, the course had been con- tinuous, there would be forty-two complete circles made. The 282 The Pilgrimage of longest piece of straight track is but 413 feet, and, strange to say, it is the 'crookedest' part of the road. "About half way up the mountain, on a broad southern shovdder, is 'The Double Bow Knot,' where the track of the railroad parallels itself five times within the distance of about 300 feet, and forms, as the name denotes, an almost perfect 'Double Bow Knot.' The fact of overcoming the grades in such a short distance and by such an ingenious way has caused the Double Bow Knot of Mt. Tamalpais to be pronounced one of the greatest of railroad engineering feats, "Starting from the settlement of Mill Valley, the railway by a gentle climb, reaches the lower heights of old Tamalpais, and there, for the first time, is opened out to the traveler a vista of San Francisco Bay and its surroundings. Higher and higher climbs the puffing train and broader and broader expands the glittering panorama until, close beside the summit of the mountain, the train wliirls around a curve and lands its pas- sengers at the very door of the Tamalpais Tavern. There is still an ascent of about 300 feet to be traversed on foot before the actual peak of the Tamalpais is reached. From the summit there is presented a vista which is not equaled at the end of any other mountain climb in the world. Almost at the be- holder's feet lie the glistening waters of San Francisco Bay; and, just beyond them, the city's hills, teeming with life and progress. In exactly the opposite direction, the eye sweeps over thousands upon thousands of acres of mountain country, all of the slopes heavily wooded with giant sequoia, California red- wood. Here and there a little lakelet nestles among the hills, and, far away to the north, Tom ales Bay breaks its way through the chain of hills, cutting inland from the sea. Beyond, and to the west, sweep the broad waters of the Pacific, with the entrance of the Golden Gate just below us, and, far beyond lie the Farallones Islands, the outposts of western commerce, where the first light-house welcomes the speeding steamer, as she shapes her course homeward from the Orient." Such, in part, is the superb view, as described, that is afforded from the top of Mt. Tamalpais, that now, in turn, looks down The San Francisco Club. 283 upon us; and, therefore, it is pardonable that we should wish to enjoy, also, the reverse view that is above briefly adverted to; and that we felt inclined to promise ourselves should some day be taken in, should circumstances ever admit of it, of our forming a more familiar acquaintance with its attractive heights. Meanwhile, the steamer has passed on, and we now pass, in close proximity to the fortified lines of the coast defenses, where are located the "disappearing guns" of the United States Gov- ernment, that protect the entrance to the harbor, commencing at Fort Scott, at the low level of the Golden Gate, and stretch- ing around to Baker's Beach, that is at the narrowest point of the Gate. Thus, Baker's, with Fort Mason, constitute the main dependence in defense, and are said to be the most power- fully defended fortifications upon either the Pacific or Atlantic coasts. Passing these points, we are now once more within the harbor proper, and stretch our course toward the Ferry House pier. In moving onward, we pass, en route, several United States war vessels. We halt, for a short time, near the United States flag- ship New York, that our company may have the opportunity of viewing the same. There were also other war vessels that were especially held at anchor for the benefit of the visiting Knights, and among these were the steamships Bennington and ]\Iarble- head. Also, several torpedo boats were open to inspection, hav- ing likewise been detained for all desiring to visit them. As the writer had visited the said flagship, we did not now avail ourselves of the privilege. Others of the Club, no doubt, did so before leaving the city. Having thus spent some three hours most agreeably upon said excursion, we disembark at the Ferry House, and, thence, return without delay to the Euss Hotel. 284 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXXVII. OTHEE POINTS OF ATTRACTION. Taking as hasty a dinner as circumstances admitted of, we then arrange to visit the equally far-famed Golden Gate Park, that we might see to what extent it was a counterpart, from its own standpoint, to the locality of the morning that had con- ferred the name thereupon. Considering the Park, therefore: first, as to its area, we learned that it comprised something more than one thousand acres. Also, that its beauty, when taken in its entirety, was not equalled by any other in the world, though, in area, admitted to be less than that of Philadelphia or Paris. The eastern bounds of the Park commence about three miles from the ferry building, and extend about three miles farther to the ocean beach. It is situated upon the crest of a series of parallel hills — the Boulevard being between the two more ele- vated ridges, which also (it is claimed) excels even the Bois-de- Boulogne of Paris. We hesitate, however, to endorse this as- sertion, when we consider the length of time that the Parisian boulevard has been in existence, and the advantages conferred by time over the possibilities of a much more limited age. The writer has himself enjoyed the sylvan attractions of the Bois-de- Boulogne, and, hence, will only admit a successful rivalry for popular favor. The points of interest in the Golden Gate Park, independent of the multitudinous designs of lawn and parterres, that fairly bewildered by their variety, are, in part, the Conservatory, dis- tinguished by its group of artistic buildings surrounding a most graceful dome, and containing the rarest varieties of plants and flowers, many of which cannot be duplicated upon the continent ; the ^luseum, with its rare collection of prehistoric and more modern times; the Japanese Tea Garden, with its unique feat- ures of designs and ornamental plants, that would repay the attention of hours, and, hence, not to be disposed of satisfactorily The San Francisco Club. 285 by a glance. The paddocks of the buffalo and deer, and the oc- cupant of the bear-pen — the largest grizzly in captivit}^ — de- serve more than a passing notice. The rare and large collec- tion of birds distinguishes the aviary, as the second largest in the country, and, hence, is a subject of interest during the entire year to the ornithologist, as well as the general lover of the feathered tribes. The Spreckles' Music Stand is a most beautiful specimen of architectural work. The pieces of statu- ary of statemen and scholars add a material increment in height- ening the pleasure of the intelligent visitor in contrasting the works of nature and art as he pursues his devious way amid the triumphs of each. And, when considered from the standpoint as a whole, in connection with the fact that this production of Elysian splendor is but a recent creation in the transformation of the sand dunes of a barren waste into that of a perennial joy, the wonder is still more enhanced that the realities of the pos- sible have approximated so near to the miraculous. And here, again, the Pilgrim ejaculates the wish that he may again, under the smiles of a beneficent future be permitted to wander at large over these ever-blooming glades and flower-crowned hillocks. Though indulging this latent expectation, we, nevertheless, turn away with reluctance, even though it be under the consciousness that other scenes and experiences will soon make as great drafts upon our attention, and set in motion the further powers of ab- sorption. Taking, then, at our point of exit from the Park, the available trolley, happily discovered to be near, we decide our next objective point to be the Mechanics' Pavilion. The Mechanics' Pavilion, on account of its total floor space of some three and a half acres, consisting of a broad nave, aisles and side communicating rooms of considerable area, afforded ample accommodations for the headquarters of twenty-one Command- eries, with the necessary facilities for such entertainment, as each Commandery came prepared to extend a welcome free to all visiting Sir Knights and their Ladies, and which unitedly enabled them to contribute to the perpetuation of those ova- tions that by their frequent occurrence astonished even the na- tives; not only for the expedition, with which all were served, 286 Tlu Pilgrimage of but also on account of the munificence displayed in providing for their entertainment. The display of plants, fruits and flowers that were the spe- cialties of the respective parts of the State of which the Com- manderies were all representatives, supplied an unprecedented ex- perience even to one walking over the spacious floors and viewing the decorations that, in one quarter, reminded one of a forest, and, in another, of a landscape garden in all their native loveli- ness, thus transforming the building into a vision of beauty redolent with the odor of fruit and freshly-cut redwood branches. We first note upon the main floor the Santa Ana Command- ery. At the entrance to its booth are four Ionic columns, bear- ing the Templar colors. In the interior, orange predominates. Orange-colored burlap is used for ceiling and walls, while sus- pended Maltese and Passion crosses, made of oranges, are conspicuous for their beauty. In the centre of the compart- ment, stands an arch, fifteen feet high, composed of corn, oil and wine, having a keystone in the centre — the whole made of oranges. At the rear of Santa Ana Commandery, and upon the opposite side of the aisle next Hayes street, the Stockton Com- mandery holds its headquarters. The decorations of this booth are of the Moorish Mosaic style. After passing through the vari-colored arches the characteristic feature within is an artistic reproduction of the home-city, in which sixty-three products of the San Joaquin Valley are exhibited, at the head of which valley Stockton stands. Watermelons form an attractive part of the exhibit, and are an agreeable surprise to the visitors from the East. Upon the Grove street side, that bounds the Pavilion upon the south, all the Northern California Commanderies are quartered. The decorations of the front, in connection with the background, are made to resemble an old castle wall, supported upon all sides by a series of colonades. Ivy vines run along the entire front of two hundred and sixty feet of the front face, and numerous electric lights peep out among the leaves, forming the letters "Xorthern California Battalion." The space occupied by each Commandery is specifically divided off from its neighbor. The San Francisco Club. 287 The San Luis Obispo Commandery is upon the opposite side of the nave from the above-named Commanderies, and is con- spicuous for its monster pumpkin grown by a Mr, Hardie, who has charge of the same. The emblems of the Order are traced upon its rind. In addition, there is a fine display of the fruit and vegetables of that section of the State. The San Jose Commandery has assigned it a commodious space in the Art Gallery, upon the Grove street side of the Pavilion. It is decorated to represent a tropical garden — two carloads of potted plants, it is said, having been used to carry out the design. The rear end gallery is occupied by the five Commanderies of Ukiah, Napa, Vacaville, Santa Eose and Petoluma; and the same is decorated to represent a redwood forest, 'neath which shelter the principal products of that region of the State, rep- resented about which appear in appropriate designs the in- signia of the Order. The green boughs of the real forest reach out upon all sides, the tree-tops extending to the very ceiling, while here and there are seen, amid the thickets of the under- growth, wood nymphs, in marble, that revel with their god, Pan, in sylvan security. The specialty of Santa Eosa is a miniature redwood forest, in imitation of a grove upon the Eussian Eiver. Leaving this forest scene, the visitor is admitted to an equally picturesque Oriental scene in the capacious annex of the Pa- vilion, on the Hayes street side, that, in its area of 185 by 50 feet, accommodates the Chinese tea garden of the California Commandery, where one quaff of the celestial beverage prepares the visitor to take in the flowery paradise embodied in the re- splendent alcoves that greet him upon every hand. Thus roved the Sir Knights and their Ladies, through the broad nave and aisles, gazing above and around to the very limit of intoxication of vision, or, obedient to the inviting legend of "Welcome," passed within the booths and partook of the luscious fruit dispensed impartially to all. May we not, therefore, hope that a like charity will condone the act, that we have dwelt so long upon the associations of the spot, as they flit across 288 The Pilgrimage of the page of memory, and compel a partial resume, at least, of the common experiences of so many ? But now the closing hour has arrived, when all are expected to withdraw from the building, that due preparations may be made for the night's entertainments. We may, therefore, no longer tarry. The ever accommodating trolley is again appealed to, and, suffering no detention by the way, we are soon upon the thresh- hold of the Russ. Supper having been despatched according to the usual regime, we gather in the vestibule to confer with others of the Club in the determination of a program for the early evening, at least. 0/ W W o o o The San Francisco Club. 2'^9 CHAPTER XXXVIII. THE OPERA HOUSE. A good delegation having been finally improvised, we start for the Opera House, to witness the histrionic efforts of the Celestial Actors to render maediseval conceptions of the Chinese drama. It Avill be recalled that the standard Chinese play is historic and continuous for a period of from six months to a year; and, therefore, to have witnessed a specimen thereof under ordinary circumstances, even with the benefit of a translated program, would have made the plot, to us, disjointed, and, at best, but an interpolation — a fact that at best is alway unsatisfactory. Having secured eligible seats, we improve the time before the opening of the program by taking in the situation The audi- ence room, as revealed, was profusely decorated with cards of emblazoned Chinese characters, in designs particularly arranged for the occasion, with flags galore and fantastic lanterns thrown in. A troupe of some sixty professional actors and musicians, arrayed in their gorgeous and bizarre costumes, have been en- gaged, we learn, for these series of entertainments, continuing for five nights of the Conclave week — all of whom are acknowl- edged experts of histrionic art from a Chinese standpoint, who, in monologue, dialogue or chant, recount the deeds of the heroes impersonated; or, in pantomime, at least in part, picture the crucial points of some catastrophe, or striking episode. The principal actors, in their plain and brocaded silks, bespangled with tinsel and gold, presented to us an incongruous mass of brilliant reflections, that, no doubt, had their occult meaning to the initiated; while their gyrations, supposed to be keep- ing time to the crude minstrelsy of the times, though, if we are correctly informed, the Chinese music of to-day is not much of an improvement upon that in popular favor prior to the days of Confucius. The period of the plot that was rendered before us was of the dynasty of Yan Tsung, 1023-1046 A. D., and was an object 19 290 The Pilgrimage of lesson that carried the audience back to a civilization that other- wise, we might have been credulous concerning, had it not been so well authenticated before us. This specialty was presented by the Tan Quai Yuen Operatic Co. — the program being printed in the Chinese character, but, happily for the most of us (as we have been out of school for some time) the same was trans- lated upon the opposite page by Sir Knight J. Endicott Gar- dener, of the San Francisco Commandery, who has continued to keep himself bright in the hieroglyphic language. Therefore, we insert the same as a matter of reference, as well as a souvenir of the unique experience. The same is entitled "Comedy in Chinese History and Manners." Synopsis of Part I. "In the reign of Yan Tsung, a wealthy Chinese had two wives, a younger brother and a younger sister; tliough called brother and sister, they were, as a matter of fact, cousins. These were regarded as being too friendly to the gentleman, of wealth by the woman who was his first wife, and, in a fit of jealousy, this first wife spread a report detrimental to the good name of the cousins. The report was believed and the cousins fled to the mountains to seek the assistance of a bully, who, with the aid of a band of ruffians, made a descent upon the home of the multi-millionaire of China. This led to a war of the clans, which, in time involved the whole Empire, so as almost to cost the Emperor his throne. Finally virtue triumphed, and merit won reward." Intermission. Part II. "Tradition has it that in the Han dynasty, seven angels, who Avere sisters, descended from heaven in the form of human beings. In face and form they excelled all the maidens that had, up to that time, Ijeen regarded as the fairest to look upon. While all the sisters were eminently beautiful, the youngest of them outshone them all. Consequently, suitors for her hand soon vied in numl)cr with the stars in the heavens or the sands The San Francisco Club. 391 upon the shores. Finally, after the '400' of China had failed to attain their object, a poor and comparatively obscure youth, who had nothing to offer but talent and a good name, came for- ward and won the beautiful prize." During the time of the above mentioned intermission a very interesting exhibition was given by forty Chinese school boys and girls, dressed in juvenile costumes, who sang in concert Chinese and American songs, and made figures in marching and countermarching, and ending in a pretty exhibit in calis- thenics. The exercises in the latter were by the boys of the Chinese public schools, who were under the charge of Prof. Miehling — the girls having been trained in song by Miss Grif- fith, of the same city. Among the representatives of both sexes there were noticeable some bright and apparently intelligent faces; and as we thought, also, a variation from the Mongolian type of the oblique almond eye to that of the Caucasian spherical. Although the dramatic entertainment was, in many respects, interesting and novel, yet, as the dramatized matter related to the life and traditions of a thousand years ago, nevertheless many would have liked to have seen something of the status of a civilization of to-day, interwoven into the dramatic exhibit. Hence, it was proposed that as the hour was not yet late, a dele- gation of the Knights should visit Chinatown, under the direc- tion of a guide to whom the streets, and most interesting locali- ties was known. CHINATOWN. That this was feasible on account of the location of the Chinese section is admitted, when it is recalled that Chinatown is not a suburban district, but that it is in the very heart of the city. It covers an area of about twelve blocks, in the very heart of the city, lying north of California and west of Kearny street. That part of the city is quite hilly, and even the main thoroughfares were narrower than those of the American sec- tions of the city. It was, indeed, a surprise to see how very narrow the alley passageways were, with the balconies of the second, third and even fourth stories projecting forward ; and 293 The Pilgrimage of to such an extent that those upon the opposite sidewalks nearly met each other; and, hence, contributed to obstruct even the light of mid-day; and, therefore, much more that of the later hours. Necessarily, therefore, the odors from these dark, se- questered spots was not suggestive of the aroma of Araby the Blest, and, hence, the absence of exhilaration, as we traversed some of these connecting ways to other points more interesting. The blank saffron faces and unpicturesque garb (suggestive that the outer should be the inner) of the "unwashed," or, as he is usually denominated, "heathen Chinee," would never be de- clared, even by the color-blind, to be "a thing of beauty, or a joy forever." When seen, therefore, under the obscure light of their many-colored and grotesque lamps, they were suggestive of the inhabitants of another sphere, where the unlovable do congregate, and the powers of degeneracy have full sway. Hence, the thought was suggested that if the Caucasian be the superior or supreme type of humanity, from what centre would the Dar- winian evolve the Mongolian, that, to-day in his native habitat, is two-fold more numerous than the former, and the tendency to affiliation of the race are almost as foreign as in the case of the African type. Of their domestic life, we could, of course, learn nothing, except inferentially from our glimpses of their little shops, that here and there offer their wares to the average Chinaman, while surrounded by one or more of the inmates of the household. On taking an acknowledged step lower into the bounds where congregate the victims of vicious habit in the persons of the opium smokers, that we saw reclining in their bunks beside the grated windows, that look out into a dark alley-way, while steeping themselves in the fumes of the baleful drug, there were shown a depth of bondage to a worse than bes- tial habit, that offered, from a moral standpoint, no ray of hope that these victims will ever "evolve" to the condition of advance being as the "survival of the fittest" — an evolution which is the so-called scientific expression in its last analysis of the materialistic outcome of humanity in its development toward the highest type of manhood. Hence, the fallacy of an unintelligent progression toward this cliinax of "fittest," when its The San Francisco Club. 293 opposite of degeneracy is shown to be a fact in the actual choice of these victims before us in becoming so degraded as they are proven by close observers to have descended to. If, however, an appeal for charity be made for these degraded ones upon the basis of their benighted religious conceptions, what defense can be offered, upon the other hand, for the equally de- graded victims of the alcoholic habit, whose perpetuation is our national stigma, even though these latter victims also claim a like immunity from condemnation upon the ground of a rightful transference of their responsibility to the promoters of an ac- cepted national policy. History, however, does record that the Emperor of China did protest against the degredation of his people by the importation into his country of opium, but the cannon of the reputed Chris- tian nation of England, the almost sole exporter of this drug, compelled the Emperor to revoke his decree, and thereby open again his ports to the importation of what he declared was de- stroying his people. It is lamentable that a like historic parallel cannot be quoted in favor of our national policy in the case of the aforesaid alcoholic habit that is a like stigma upon our boasted civiliza- tion. Dwelling upon these and other object lessons that our night's tour disclosed, that we further forbear to dilate upon, associa- tions were awakened, that, for the time being at least, would, no doubt, have been construed as pessimistic by some; and, therefore, we were influenced thereby to retrace our footsteps to our headquarters ere the round of our possible experiences was complete. Be that as it may, however, we could but realize from the situation, how nearly located to each other are the precincts of what we boast to be our highest evidences of Christian civiliza- tion and enlightenment, and the lowest concrete forms of vice and degeneracy. Our last reflection, therefore, was — That the twentieth century has its hands full to successfully reconcile the aforesaid anomaly. With this thought monopolizing our mind, so counter to those of the previous night's experience, we closed the recitals of the day. 294 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XXXIX. THE CLIFF HOUSE. Thursday, September 8th, found the members of the Club early upon the scene to improve the opportunities of the last day in the land where the sun dispenses his most roseate smiles, that we might take in those points of interest in the city and environs as yet unvisited, at least, so far as the powers of human endurance and the means of transportation to and fro are avail- able. Hence, many of the Club who had not yet visited the Cliff House thought it best to improve the early part of the day there and in its vicinity. This place being easily accessible by different street-car routes at the very low price of a nickel, for a distance of seven miles — a price that would seem to be utterly inadequate, but for the fact that this locality is so popular that it is visited at all seasons by all classes of the city's population, as well as by tourists, we did not hesitate upon the order of our going. The view of the ocean and its beach, varied by its precipitous and level reaches, is marvelously impressive, as seen from the porticoes of the Cliff House, where one can sit at ease and sip his lemonade or soda water, and gaze at his leisure out upon the broad expanse of waters and the incoming breakers that dash upon the up-jutting rocks in the forefront, that vary in height from thirty to sixty feet, and are known as the Seal Rocks. They are so named, it will be recalled, because of the scores of seals that may be seen at all hours of the day, basking in the warm sun upon the shelving sides of the same, or climbing to its benches from the water's edge, or diving therefrom into the foaming waves. At first sight, from the appearance of their ungainly and clumsy forms, one is puzzled to understand how they can climb at all ; but, upon close observance of their move- ments, we see them swaying their bodies alternately from side to side, as they advance their opposite flipper to a higher point; The San Francisco Club. 295 and then, by an opposite sway the opposite flipper is also ad- vanced in turn, and thus, by an apparent zigzag motion, a gradual advance is made until the seal has reached his desired height, either by crowding his companions into closer quarters, or by selecting an unoccupied spot for his unmolested siesta. We notice, also, in what familiar terms the sea gulls and other sea birds circle and hop around in close proximity, as if among old acquaintances. These rocks, being some one hundred yards or thereabouts from the shore, and no attempts at any time made to molest them, the seals seem to show no fear of any objects upon the beach; and, besides, their security from alarm or in- jury being the universal sentiment of an unwritten code, it would endanger the safety of any one that would dare raid upon the people's favorites. Besides, this species of seal being the com- mon hair seal, and not the fur variety, the inducement to kill or capture is not near so great as if they were of the valuable latter species. We did not learn whether the school is as numer- ous as at an earlier date, or otherwise. From the interest taken in witnessing their movements, they certainly are the drawing cards to this part of the coast. The flight of time, however, reminds us that we dare not pro- long our stay here, if we would give attention to other points. The Sutro Baths are in close touch to the Cliff House, and, therefore, we repair thither to appropriate as much as pos- sible of its attractions. These have the reputation of being the largest and best-equipped baths in the world. The pools are 500 by 250 feet, and hold nearly 2,000,000 gallons. The main tank is 300 by 175 feet, the water being pumped thereinto from the sea, or flowing naturally therefrom at high tide. It is heated to such lower or higher degrees as may be required. While we saw a number of experts making their high dives and toboggan slides into the pools, we did not see any special competitions for prizes between star members of the Olympic Club, that gave exhibitions of their accomplishments at stated hours. A free duck or plunge was accorded to the visiting Knights upon the day of our visit, but our time was too limited to accept the same. The band concerts are also given in the 296 The Pilgrimage of earlier and later portions of the day. We did take advantage, however, of the privilege of the building, and took a cursory view of the curios of the Sutro Museum, on the top floor of the Baths Building. Many sea-shells and curios of the ocean were to be seen, and would have sanctioned a minute examina- tion by any having leisure therefor. We were likewise obliged to forego the ascent to the Sutro Heights, which, we were in- formed, repay a visit to the beautiful park, which are really the grounds of the late Hon. Adolphus Sutro — his mansion being there located. He, like "Lucky Baldwin," laid the foundation of his wealth in connection with the Comstock Mines — the productiveness of which w^as greatly increased by his tunneling improvement in draining the same. The view of the beach from these grounds is said to be most extensive and magnificent. Eeturning by the way of the Cliff House, we descend by the roadway bordering the "Ocean Beach," so-called, or bathing shore of the multitude, and witness, for a while, the crowds buffeting the breakers in hilarious glee, while one or more are ever and anon overthrown and pay tribute to Old Neptune. The sun now has climbed to the zenith, and, exposed to the same, we wind around the beach to the trolley station, that takes a different route to the city, under a heat as sweltering as any of our July summer days. In this promenade by the sea, we traverse at least a half mile, and, in the language of the vicinity, we "perspire like porpoises." The "wait for the wagon" was but short, and passing over, in part, a most desolate tract of sand banks, sage bushes and sand burrs, and a skirting of scrub- pines — that was, no doubt, a counterpart of the original site of the Golden Gate Park — we at length reach the entrance to the latter. Some of the delegation drop out to take a last look at the Park, and others, including the writer, return to the city. The latter, from thence, take the route that, upon the return, borders Chinatown, as we were desirous of seeing again, at least, a part of the same by daylight. Stopping upon the environs of that quarter, we entered the annex of a Presbyterian Church and had the privilege of both The San Francisco Club. j>97 seeing some of the Chinese girls that attend the Church School, and of hearing several recite selections in English at the re- quest of the preceptress, and of noting the neat appearance of the girls, as they stood in rank and filed out of the room at the close of the exercises. Returning our thanks to the lady-like preceptress for her courtesy granted to us, we take our de- parture. Euminating upon the facts that had just transpired, we were led to conclude that we had seen here demonstrated what we conceive to be the only successful method of engraft- ing upon the said native mind the principles of our civilization —an intensified duplication of what we had seen in this line the night before at the Opera House. That is, first principles are impressed upon, and retained by, the memory of the plastic mind of youth more readily when the imagination is enlisted to co-operate in the processes of permanent development. The average adult Chinaman appears to be so unimpressive, and so incapable of absorbing principles apart from the exercise of the merely mechanical imitative faculty, that it would seem to be an almost impossible task to explain to him what the as- similation of abstract truth is, and, hence, the necessity of early enlisting the co-operation of the imaginative faculty. Their bigotry, too, is so pronounced that many of them despise our most prized conceptions as absolutely inferior to their traditions, that they ascribe to be the product of myriads of years of the past, and, therefore, invincible. It is, however, a trite proverb —that "error is as old as the world," and, hence, mere age does not confer inviolability upon even the acknowledged most hoary institutions. Thus ruminating by the way, we leisurely direct our footsteps to Russ Hotel, and take our places among other arrivals in the dining-room. Dinner being duly despatched, a delegation of the Club decided to return to Chinatown, to inspect some of the wares of some of the celebrated bazaars. Entering that of Sing Pat & Co., we were soon really overwhelmed with the wonders and value of the immense assortment there exhibited in chinaware of every conceivable pattern of form and exquisite gilding— bronzes varying from statuettes to goblins, vases and 298 The Pilgrimage of bowls, urns and tureens, varying from the colossal to those of the hric a hrac order, embossed and inlaid in the most life-like relief, or ornamented with the finest etchings of the engraver's tool. Jewelry, in bizarre designs and delicate finish. Lacquer- ware, embossed in gold and silver, with their strongest con- trasts and perfection of execution. Fancy articles galore, from pins to idols; fans, flags and lamps — all varying in price from the contents of the average pocket-book to the bank account of the multi-millionaire. The writer and his companion made some purchases, but others that followed still found an assort- ment left from which to select valuable souvenirs. Perceiving, however, from our first entrance into these exhibit-rooms, that we could not take the stock in trade away with us, we walk to and fro before the cases and upon the platforms of display, ab- sorbing as much as possible of what we would have to leave be- hind us, that we might thereafter dwell upon them, at least, with the orbs of memory, if we were not permitted to feast daily in reality upon them, as arranged within our own apartments subsequent to our return home. The general impression of the exhibit still remains, when we turn those orbs within, even though Sing Fat retains the originals. CHINESE FUNEEAL. Upon leaving Sing Fat's establishment, we are attracted by the passing of a Chinese funeral of the first class. The de- ceased was a member of the numerous family of Chang; and, according to custom, a life-size portrait of the deceased was car- ried and supported by the inmates of a carriage following the hearse, and was exhibited to the gaze of all upon the street. The hearse was a handsome one, though we would not suppose, from its similarity to the general style, that it was used ex- clusively for Chinese. The coffin was also first-class in finish, and was covered with flowers of appropriate designs. The third carriage in the procession contained a friend who threw out, at short intervals, small pieces of blank buff paper, that fell upon the street and sidewalk. We understood the significance of this to be, that if the deceased, after interment, desired to return The San Francisco Club. 299 home, he could do so by following the trail made by these papers ; otherwise, he could not find it. Hence, we would conclude, from their standpoint, that the disembodied state is more helpless than that of the living subject. After this followed a long string of empty carriages, which, in turn, was followed by the mourners of the immediate family and friends on foot and dressed in white gowns, covering the entire person, with hoods of the same, covering the head, but leaving the face exposed. Upon each side of each chief mourner walked an attendant, supporting the arms of the same — the latter leaning forward and covering the face with the hands and seemingly overcome with grief. N"ext followed about a hundred young men, dressed in blue-belted gowns, and apparently fellow-members with the deceased of some order. These, again, were followed by friends and acquaintancs, dressed in their usual garb. We learned that when the bounds of Chinatown were reached that then the entire process would take the carriages, that the mourners might not be a gazing-stock for the 'Melican Man, as they passed through the 'j\Ielican City. The procession having passed, Ave pass down the street, in the opposite direction from that taken by the cortege, viewing the shops, restaurants and loiterers upon the sidewalks, who seemed to have about as much curiosity con- cerning us, as they concluded we must have of them, in walking- through their quarters upon no errands apparently of business. They all, however, looked alike, except that some were fat and others lean, some old and others young, but all following the same gait of movement, and nobody in a hurry. DIAMOND PALACE. Bidding adieu to Chinatown, we return to our headquarters, passing over other details that came under our notice, and re- fraining from what w^e would have been pleased to have spoken of further had we had more leisure at our disposal. Mean- while, we drop into the Diamond Palace, that is next door to the Euss Hotel, and take a rapid glance at its most valuable collection of precious stones and other valuable wares. We will admit, that had we known at an earlier date such a magnificent 300 The Pilgrimage of emporium of jewelry was so near us, we would have exerted our- selves more strenuously to have visited the same at an early date. Being, however, closed at an early hour of each day and strongly guarded from that hour until the opening upon the following morning, it was not convenient to call at an earlier date. The collection is said to be among, if not the most valu- able, in the world. Since, however, Sir Knight Macklin has given a detailed description of the salon, we will not attempt to do so. We had the privilege, with a number of the Club, of becoming acquainted with Sir Knight A. Andrews, the pro- prietor, a man considerably advanced in years; and, by his own statement, he thought himself to be the oldest Mason upon the Pacific Coast, having been a member of the Order for fifty-seven years. I found him very interesting, and we conversed so long together that we had but little leisure to examine his collection with the scrutiny that would have enabled us to bear away with us a vivid recollection thereof. The arrangement and display of his goods not only proved that he was an expert lapidary, in his knowledge of the intrinsic value of his wares, but also a man of superlj taste, in knowing how to display them to the best advantage. Therefore, between the Mr. Andrews' fascinating address, and the brilliancy of his valuable collection, we were so pre-occupied that Ave could not come doA^m to such a practical frame of mind as to be able to make an investment and, there- fore, having exchanged cards, and responded appropriately to his invitation to call again, we withdrew, satisfied that we were still compos mentis. Being also in the neighborhood of the office of a friend and college-mate of our early life. Sir Knight W. F. M. Deal, the writer thought it well to call upon him and renew the ac- quaintance of forty years ago. Appreciating the call so much, he devoted the balance of the day to us. He first conducted us to the city's most elegant market. The display of meats, vege- tables and fruits in the abundance, variety and taste exhibited, reminded one more of a picture than of a real display, and asso- ciated with a cleanliness that would not have been an imsightly annex to a drawing-room. Among other fruits, our friend pre- The San Francisco Club. 301 sented us with some specimens of seedless grapes, whose luscious- ness of flavor, even now by bare mention, make one's "mouth to water." THE PALACE OF ART. Leaving the same, our friend next took us to the most lux- urious saloon of the city — known as the Palace of Art. We found it to be a fair counterpart to those of Milwaukee, already referred to as visited by members of the Club. As the name suggests, nuisterpieces of the highest specimens of painting were exhibited upon the walls. The most beauteous forms of the human face and figure — the nude predominating — the most lovely landscape views and battle scenes of modern times and of places noted for their historic associations. We talked with the proprietor, and he was free to say that his place was open to all, without price, to gaze at T\all upon these choice produc- tions of his salon (so-called) ; and that nothing objectionable, he said, was here to be seen by the most fastidious. More- over, that his guests were not expected to patronize either his bar or menu, though, of course, he was shrewd enough to be aware that but few would wish to visit the place and thus place themselves under obligation Avithout discharging the same by patronizing the owner in some way. The majority of his ex- hibits were valued at thousands of dollars, and, had they been displayed elsewhere we would have been delighted to have spent hours in dwelling upon their beauties; but the realization that they were here exhibited simply as a drawing card to pander to the lower instincts, marred our pleasure; and, in departing, we reasoned how easy the passage from the elevating to the de- pressing, from the salons of the highest culture to the ante- chambers of vice. An artistic card, bearing a copy of one of the most attractive nudes was presented to our companion by the proprietor that we may not dwell upon. Leaving this point, our friend then accompanied us to the re- ception rooms of the DeWitt Clinton Commandery of Nevada, quartered at the California Hotel, of which he was a member, and he there introduced us to his friends and fraters. We were 303 The Pilgrimage of agreeably entertained in social converse, and in the partaking of the accompaniments of fruit and those lighter liquid potations that are said to contribute to "the flow of soul" — ^the ban being placed upon the inebriating bowl — thereby showing that the hosts would not transcend the bounds of the most conservative. Meanwhile, other delegations of the Club, no doubt, partici- pated in like entertainments, that were open in all parts of the city every afternoon and night, and thus was afforded the op- portunity of imparting to the closing hours of the departing Knights that aroma of associations that is so pleasurable to recall in the days of the aftermath. In bidding a final farewell to our college friend and Templar frater, he asked the privilege of presenting to the companion of the writer a handsome portfolio of the leading views of the City of the Golden Gate, that is, under the circumstances, a very appropriate souvenir that we will ever prize as one of the me- mentoes of an event in life — the days of which must all be underscored as "red-letter days," and so engrossed upon the calendar. Returning to headquarters, we take our bearings and learn that there is still an hour or two at the disposal of the Club to improve as they will, and, hence, it was suggested to take an- other turn through some of the department stores and there, for a while, to linger-ie. To the writer and his companion, to suggest was but to decide ; and to go was to do more than merely survey. Desires being at length gratified, a final return to the TJuss Hotel closed our peregrinations, and we prepared for the closing chapter of the San Francisco diary. The last touches are made in packing our belongings; trunks are strapped, and the porter summoned for their removal from our rooms to the Reception-room floor, where, satchels in hand, we assemble, awaiting the call to our last meal. This being leisurely dis- posed of, we again assemble in the waiting ante-chamber, and there have our last tete a tcte, while the hotel mascot — the St. Bernard — ambles to and fro among us, aware of our kindly feel- ings toward him. The huge fellow, being the hero of some 325 prizes, the proprietor of the hotel, and his owner, loves to nar- The San Francisco Cltib. 303 rate his strong points, while Prince responds approvingly when his master asks a compliant bark. Thus, we while away the hour, until the announcement is made that those that desire can take the first boat for Oakland. The larger portion of the Club respond without further invitation, and we safely embark upon the ferry boat for the bay transit, and, after a twenty- minutes' ride, are prepared to greet once more the Special, that still has its attractions, and, therefore, is welcomed as our home for the return trip. The old quarters are repossessed, and sleep closes our eyes before the command of the conductor is given to "pull out" for the plains of jSTevada. o o o 304 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XL. ROUNDING CAPE HORN. The morning of the 9th, owing to time lost upon the route during the night hours, found us, when we awoke to conscious- ness, near Colfax, and with but little opportunity afforded us to see the wild scener}^ revealed before we make the formidable climb of "rounding Cape Horn." This is much to be regretted, for the reason that otherwise we would have viewed the region surrounding the important station of Auburn, that claims a population of some 2,500. And, now that the altitude of the ascent is becoming quite perceptible — the rate per mile since leaving the previous station being 100 feet, and the altitude of the town 1,360 feet, it is readily understood why the place, with its other attractions, should have become a popular resort for the elite of Sacramento, and even of San Francisco during the summer months, as well as for tourists en route, either East or West. The town is well built and prosperous, having all the modern improvements of good hotels, excellent water, electric lighting and trolley plant. The surrounding orchards, vine- yards and vegetable farms show the attention given to fruit and soil culture, instead of the mining industry, that was the chief attraction in the earlier days, but now in the evident abandon- ment of the mine openings, as seen from the train beyond the city limits, shows that this source of activity has ceased to be profitable, and, therefore, has given place to the aforesaid, in- cluding the development of quarries of building stone, that find a market in other cities upon the line. COLFAX, as before mentioned, is another station passed, of about the same number of inhabitants as Auburn, and is also interested in fruit culture, but not so extensively as the afore-mentioned town. It has, however, from its location, an additional advantage in being The San Francisco Club. 305 a promiiieut trading depot with the mining regions, that are still in operation in Nevada County, and is the railway junction of the narrow-gauge road running to said county, and so named, and, therefore, connected with Grass Valley, Nevada City and the intervening agricultural belt. Lpon leaving Colfax, the scenery becomes wilder, the evi- dences of civilization but rare, and the grade heavier. But, in- stead, the triumphs over Nature of the engineer's art, come to the front, as shown in the approach to, and final doubling of, the so-called "Cape Horn." The first object that attracts the eye as we approach the most formidable crest of the mountain is a bold out-jutting precipice in the upper heights, that shows about its face the line of the railway that we are to pass over later, in doubling the same. Noting, also, the grade, it is seen that the increase of altitude from Colfax to Duth Gap, beyond us, a distance of fourteen miles, is 1,175 feet, although the grade at this particular point of the road, owing to the difficulties to be overcome, may be greater. The road-bed, lying upon a shelf cut into the face of the rock, proceeds uninterruptedly until the embankment of Eice ravine is reached, which is crossed at a height of at least 100 feet from its bottom by a trestle bridge of some 875 feet in length; and. from the forward end thereof, we may say the climb is commenced in earnest. And yet, in looking away to the right, a beautiful valley is disclosed," along the opposite side of which the line of the road is seen, over which we have but a short time before passed. But the detour is now commenced that is to be consummated in the doubling of "Cape Horn." And as the course is pursued, the wonder is excited how a road-bed was ever here made at all, as at the centre of the curve the vertical height from the base below is 2,500 feet. The method pursued was the same, we learned, as that adopted in securing the road-bed through the Eoyal Gorge, which, noth- ing happening to prevent, we shall pass over upon our further progress East. The method, though apparently incredible at first mention, was, upon survey being made, to first ascend to the summit of the precipice assailed, and then by the use of proper appliances of rope and tackle, to lower the workman from 20 306 The Pilgrimage of the said summit to the point selected over which the track was to be laid; and there being safely anchored, the drilling of the face of the precipice was consummated for the purpose of blast- ing inward, until, inch by incb, an initial shelf was wrought, upon which a foothold was at length gained to the end that the workman may transfer himself from the rope's end to a solid basis. Thus, by repeated blastings, the rocky surface was torn away and an entrance made into the face of the prec- ipice to the depth equal to the desired breadth of the road-bed. Thereupon blasting forward and backward, the continuous slielf is ultimately completed, and the desired incline of the road-bed established, as now seen and traversed. Looking down- ward, the American river is seen, like a silver thread, to wind its tumultuous way through the gorges, 2,000 feet below, to its final loss of identity in the bosom of the Sacramento. Slowly, but confidently, the curve is rounded, and we hear no protests of danger, as when the descent of the Kicking Horse was being made, even though the present course is more frightful. Ere long, however, we reach the summit of the pass and move on- ward with accelerated speed. . SHADY EUN. The next view of the canon is at the point known as Shady Run, that flows farther distant from the road-bed, toward the right, where the opposing cliffs, between which the river forces its way, boldly expose their faces to the height of 2,000 feet above the river bed, safe in their security that now, since a more direct course has been taken, the railway engineer will not assail their fronts, and they may, therefore, defy even Sir Knight Rudy, of the Club, to adorn their escutcheons with his nimble brush, or dictate their epitaphs for memorial windows. Still advancing, but at a gentler grade, the region continues to be wild, the declivities of the mountain ridge to be still covered with a thick forest growth, some of the original monarchs of the primeval forest still stand, as if to rebuke the intruder that would disturb their solitudes; while, as we look down upon the incline of the tree-tops at our left, the maze thickens, until The San Francisco Club. 307 impenetrable to the eye in the valley bordering the lower depths. Ever and anon a lone telegraph station is passed, that yields some sign of civilization, and that the isolation is not absolute. OEEL. One of these, Orel by name, upon the right, is noted, with its siding upon the left, to meet the emergency of a possible be- lated train. Not supposing that either it or its lone surround- ings might ever further claim our attention, we pass on without a thought that we should ever see the locality again. Continuing our course, therefore, onward for about a mile and a half, our Special passes, in part, through a tunnel — our two locomotives and the next three cars attached thereto, having passed out of the east end terminus thereof, when, suddenly, a number of shrill whistles from our engines and an abrupt stoppage of the train brought all of the occupants of the same to their feet. Those of us that occupy the said three cars rush immediately to points of outlook, and, having this advantage, can see ahead, but those of the rearward cars enclosed in the darkness of the tunnel have no such opportunity, and, therefore, cannot imagine the cause of the alarm and, therefore, imagine every species of catastrophe except the proper one. The Special being, how- ever, at a standstill, the members of the Club swarm from their quarters like bees from their hive, either alighting upon the rough ballast of the side-way, in the gloom of the tunnel, or hurriedly passing through the cars in their front, join the rest, that have already dismounted upon the discovery of flames of fire that now begin to reach heavenward. These are soon seen to have their source in a burning snow-shed just ahead, that had even been entered by the first locomotive before the impetus of the train could be checked, and backed to a point of safety, that we now occupy, rather than incur the risk of rushing forward into possibly greater danger than the entrance to the shed disclosed. In reward for this prudence upon the part of the responsible engineer a purse of $50.00 was presented to him by the Club, with expressions of gratitude that no further 308 The Pilgrimage of mishap had befallen us other than possibly a vexatious delay, whose termination could not yet be confidently discovered. The graphic pen of Sir Knight Macklin has related the sequel of the incident, and, therefore, we beg leave to quote him in this connection. "Here we are, about thirty miles from the summit of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and 5,000 feet above the sea level, \rith a fiery furnace just ahead and the train at a standstill. A snow-shed, all ablaze with fire, and the underbrush on the slopes above, as well as the telegraph poles, and that, too, amid the solitude of the mountains, 165 miles east of San Francisco and -to miles from anywhere. We run back two miles to a tele- graph station, and are now informed that many miles of sheds on the higher elevations are burning and that there is no hope of getting away before to-morrow (Saturday) morning, if then. We are certainly up against the real thing, for the first time since we began our journey; but, fortunately, we are near a mountain stream and are sure of water for frequent ablutions, etc. The situation might be worse, and we have learned that in whatsoever state we are therewith to be content." THE ENFOECED EEST. Fortunately, the said siding at Orel was so near, upon which Ave are shunted, that we may here safely await events; par- ticularly in regard to what may come from our rear. Mean- while, as there will yet be an hour or more until lunch is called, delegations from the Club are improvised to walk from this, our temporary home, to the blazing shed, that we may see the results there disclosed of the conflagration. Being now pretty well rested from the walks of our last day in "Frisco," even the Ladies risked the trip to a large extent — ^the trench by the side of the railway being dry at this season of the year, and, hence, readily converted into good sidewalks. As we journeyed along, the prevailing animus of all was that of gratitude that the delay, thus far at least, had not been attended with serious results to life and limb, and, therefore, we felt content to await the sequel. The passage through the tunnel being slightly curved and long, was somewhat tedious ; and yet at no time were we beyond The San Francisco Club. 309 the dim light of either the one or of the other end of the same. Finally, emerging therefrom, we were immediately confronted with the destruction wrought in a brief space of time by the devouring element. The huge timber supports of the roof, though prone, were still ablaze, and the heat generated was so intense that the rails were warped into S'S, the cross-ties still smouldering, and the stones of the ballast almost of a red-heat. The serious- ness of the delay again is impressed upon us as we view the facts before us, and our train is upon the wrong side of the holocaust. And, now, as we look off to the right, across the deep interven- ing valley we see the dense clouds of smoke rolling up therefrom, showing that the fire is really spreading thitherward, and that it will, no doubt, cross the same and attack also other sheds located upon that side of the opposite mountain, through which we would have safely passed had our train been on time. To reach the flanks of the said mountain, the road beyond Blue Canon makes a broad detour, and at its terminus ascends in almost an opposite direction from our present course in its con- tinuous upward grade to reach the summit. The events of the later hours of the day proved that our fears were realized in the fact that five sheds did succumb to the flames. At the time of making these observations we noted that a large flume, of about 3x4 feet, that was located some fifty feet below the road- bed of the first burning shed, and conducted quite a large body of water to some of the placer mines in the lower valley, was yet undamaged; but we have no doubt that, later, its wooden walls will be eaten through, and the valuable supply to some distant point cut off. This is a danger incurred, more or less, in the irrigated districts, as the fount of supply is in the moun- tain regions, that are often exposed to forest fires. Having now been impressed more fully with our helplessness, and yet hoping that the track forces of the corporation would be equal to the emergency, we returned to the Special, content, be- cause compelled to await the logic of events. Moreover, the walk was conducive to the production of a sharpened appetite, and, hence, in due time, after our return, the "call to lunch" was duly honored, and, between courses, we 310 The Pilgrimage of naturally discussed what had not been entered among the side issues of the itinerary, and what might be predicated of the outlook. Lunch over, the Ladies gathered in their respective sections and in the observation car, to while away the time as best they might, or, in the forgetfulness of a siesta, divert thouglit from the situation. The majority of the Sir Knights stood about the station, either indulging in the fragrant "two- fer," or philosophizing upon the mutability of the "best-laid plans of mice and men," as is their wont, in cases of emergency ; and, after affirming what the great railway corporations of the East would do under like circumstances, it was finally declared to be the consensus of the crowd that hind-sight was much more reliable than foresight in cases parallel to the one monopolizing the present. Therefore, to expedite matters, a volunteer corps of observation was improvised to walk again to the vicinity of the burnt shed to study the situation and thus be in a position to offer advice — well, to those that were left behind. Hence, under the command of the redoubtable Sir Knight Beitler, we noted the following candidates for fame in the persons of Sirs Kudy, Gorgas, Manning, Wagner, Weidner, Denlinger et aJ., all of whom, it was presumed, knew the difference between a switch and a frog, and, mayhap, of a guard rail brace and a fish-plate. But ere we could start under the martial notes of the "Dead March," the whistle of an approaching train from the West greeted our ears, and, thereupon, as swift as the wings of the wind, a wrecking train passed, laden with new rails, ties and a large force of tracklayers, equipped to repair damages. Our hopes brighten ; the corps of observation disbands, our antici- pated laurels as advisers fade in the "bornin," and Rudy lights another penny cigar, and "go as you please" again becomes the order of the day. The San Francisco Club. 311 CHAPTER XLI. THE JOUENEY EESUMED. Again, we appeal to the annals of Sir Knight Macklin : Saturday. "After a delay of 18 hours on account of the fire, that destroyed five snow-sheds ahead of the train, we got away at 4 A. M. A large force of railroad men worked all night, clearing away the burnt timbers, laying track and fighting the fire in the bush. At 6 o'clock, the writer was on the rear plat- form, viewing the effects of the fire. On both sides of the track were charred and burning sticks, trees and bushes on fire; and a small army of fire-fighters and tracklayers, with red eyes and blackened faces, whose all-night work amid heat and smoke made a way for us out of the woods. Literally, we passed 'through the fires and the Lord was with us.' This is railroad- ing in barns, with only a flash of daylight here and there be- tween the snow-sheds for thirty miles of a continuous stretch, and we are almost choked with smoke, and our clothes smell like the proverbial piece of smoked sausage. At times, we could not distinguish one another in the cars. We have this satis- faction, however, that we lead the procession of statesmen, mayors and the lords of England — but never follow. Behind our train is Secretary Shaw and the Earl of Eustice, on two other sections. The latter asked to have his private car at- tached to our train, and our committee consented, but he didn't catch up in time to hook on. He is an Earl, but was not 'Early' enough to catch us." After passing through the burnt district, the writer, on ac- count of having arisen at the hour of the start, lay down again in his berth, intending, later, to arise, that he might see what the Summit might disclose in our passage thereover. For- tunately, having awakened just as the transit was being made, at an altitude of 7,018 feet above the sea — the sun now having arisen, and gilding the mountain tops in earnest, we were af- 312 TTie Pilgrimage of forded the extreme pleasure of witnessing one of the most rare views that these upper heights ever afford. Looking from our window, upon a vast field, stretching away far to our left, to the very bounds of the distant horizon, we beheld what appeared to be a deposit of snow so immense in area and depth of content as to fill, in a measure, the vales and mountain gorges, and thus present a billowy surface like unto petrified sea-foam, all glis- tening in an intensified sunlight that can only be appreciated in full at these lofty elevations. And yet, here and there, was seen to jut upward a mountain peak, whose bare and sombre summit contrasted sharply with the virgin whiteness of the snowy mantle that clothed its flanks — a circumstance that led us to wonder that they, too, were not snow-capped, as had been the case in our former experiences. The brilliancy of the view and the transparency of the atmosphere were each, in their sphere, so perfect that we awakened our companion to share in its magnificence ; and, upon asking her if the view was not grand above measure, she agreed with us to the full. And, as we con- tinued in rapture to gaze thereupon, the query was suggested as to why it was that we had been so unprepared, at the "nick of time," to view, from an upper height, such an immense low-lying field — all our previous mountain views having been either from below, or, at best, upon the same plane with the snowy deposits. And thus, for some fifteen or twenty minutes, we luxuriated in the sight — when, all of a sudden, the scene was cut off, and we found ourselves involved in our descent from the heights in a fog so dense that the eye could not penetrate it to the distance of a car-length. Then it was that the truth dawned upon us, that we had simply been borne along above the clouds, and that the supposed snow-hummocks and intervening vales were only the sharply- defined reflecting surfaces of the condensed vapor of the lower- lying members, under the transfiguring radiance of the over- hanging sun, that transformed the same into the illusion of a mantle of snow. And yet the same seemed as perfect in its out- lines and content as the real covering of the Rockies of the higher latitudes. The tian Francisco Club. 313 We continued to be thus enwrapped in the cloudy envelope for some fifteen minutes longer, and upon passing out from its lower limits and not enclosed in the obscurity of the snow-sheds, we were aggravated ever and anon by the beauties of the lower landscape ; and, hence, we were thus constantly made aware that we were losing many of the attractions of the lake region, through which we were now passing. THE LAKE EEGION. The chief lakes of this section are Tahoe, Webber, Indepen- dence and Donner — bodies of water in the very heart of the Sierras ; and, hence, at an elevation that cannot be paralleled in altitude by as large areas and within such easy reach of each other. Tahoe is represented as 6,280 feet above the sea, in size is 23 by 13 miles, and is 1,800 feet deep. Webber is at a still greater altitude, viz, 6,925 feet, though its depth is but 80 feet. The altitudes of the last two above-mentioned are about the same, or but little less than Tahoe. They all have specific at- tractions for the artist and the tourist, as worthy of reproduc- tion by the former upon the canvas ; and as receiving the highest commendations of the latter, as places of resort that compare favorably in kind with any within the limits of the States. The only one that can be seen with any advantage as we pass is that of Donner. The writer recalls with much pleasure the number of visits he paid to the never-to-be-forgotten painting of Bierstadt that was exhibited in the Art Building of the Centennial Exposition at Philadelphia, and his ardent wish then felt that some day he might be permitted to see the original. And, hence, our great gratification to know that we pass the same by daylight. This lake is about three miles long and about one-half the same in width, and is said to be 250 feet deep. It runs east and west, and is paralleled a great part of its length by the railway — the latter sweeping around its eastern end by a broad curve, and, therefore, a number of good views of it were obtained. The great purity of the waters of these lakes is seen in the fact that one can see to the immense depth of from seventy-five 314 The Pilgrimage of or one hundred feet beneath their surfaces, and see the fish swim- ming about at such low levels. They all abound in trout, and, hence, are well considered to be a paradise for the angler. While thus dwelling upon associations so fruitful, we felt much inclined to resolve that should we ever pass this way again we shall endeavor to stop over long enough to visit each of the aforesaid ; and thus, in turn, absorb to the full some of the in- spiration that has made this locality so attractive to the highest order of appreciative taste. TEUCKEE. The three miles that still intervene between Donner Lake and Truckee is soon traversed ; and there, arriving at about 7 :30, the Special makes a brief halt for about thirty minutes, to replenish our almost empty tanks, secure an abundant supply of ice, for which this station is noted, and thus take a last look at California civilization — this being the last town upon the railway before crossing the line into the State of Nevada. By observations made from the station, we conclude that the town is a place of considerable business activity, having a popu- lation of some 1,500, that are mainly sustained by the ice and lumber business — this point being the centre of an extensive lumber region. Meanwhile, the apple-boy is patronized, and the surrounding residences of the people become objects of notice. An octangular house, perched upon the top of a huge boulder in the yard of a private residence upon the opposite side of the station area, claimed particular attention. We learned that the same was built by the person residing in the adjoining house, for the purpose of being used as a conservatory — the top of the boulder being flat and some ten feet from the ground. It was finished in style similar to the house adjoining, and supplied with a window upon each plane of the outer surface, and cov- ered with a flat roof. It is connected with the house by a covered way of the same height, or upon the same plane as the top of the boulder. The odd structure excited considerable comment by the Club, and, no doubt, generally — a fact that may be a source of satisfaction to the owner. None of our The San Francisco Club. 315 members, however, passed over to examine the same more mi- nutely, so far as we know. The town stands upon the north side of the river of the same name, that is the outlet of the afore-mentioned lakes. We now make its first acquaintance, as we learn that our course will follow its tortuous channel for some hours. The signal, "all aboard," though now becoming monotonously familiar, is once more obeyed, and we are again in motion with our next objec- tive apparently in reach, without further delay. TEUCKEE EIVEE. After our departure from the town of Truckee, we approach more nearly the banks of the river, that is here about fifty feet wide, and is seen to tumble, in a wild tumult of frequent cas- cades, over its ledge-covered bottom, as it hastens away upon its downward journey, upon a descent of more than 1,700 feet in a distance of seventy miles. This fact, taken in connection with its frequent and abrupt change of course, enlivens the outlook, and prepares us somewhat against the monotonous surroundings that will engage the vision upon the plains. And, as we pass, evidences of the activities of the region are seen upon its banks, in the storage of logs and sawed lumber that alternate with the numerous ice-houses located upon the lake-like expansions of the stream that ever and anon reveal the fact, that these are staple evidences of an industry that is in a flourishing state. We pass frequently from one side of the river to another, as we follow the trend of the canon, with its constantly changing features of cliff and imbedded boulders in the foreground, and overtopped by the evergreen-capped heights beyond, THE STATE OF NEVADA. At the modest station of Bronco, we pass across the line of Cali- fornia into Nevada, whose very name, from the date that the golden visions of wealth reputed to lie beneath her soil, have led to the immigration of thousands thitherward to the present time, has tended to render some of the localities almost house- hold words to many of us, and, therefore, whetted the desire to 316 The Pilgrimage of come into closer contact with them than has been afforded us through the medium of other tourists, or of the written page. The stations of Boca, Floriston and Verdi differ but little in their surroundings fi'om the other lumber stations passed ; and, hence, engaged our attention only for the time being. Had circumstances admitted, we would have liked to have stopped off long enough to take a side run to Virginia and Carson Cities, that, in the earlier days of the mining fever, were the centres of an almost fabulous gold production, that aggregated many millions, to the enormous enrichment, in some cases, of the original prospectors and the corporations that were exploited by them, eventuating of late in a successful expansion of what would have been impossible under the cruder methods of the placer period. This production became, at length, so large, that the United States Government established a mint at Carson City to handle the crude metal direct, and thus avoid the ex- pense of transportation elsewhere. These facts also gave an impetus to permanent improvements in both cities, and at Car- son, the capital of the State, these became quite imposing. These places are reached most readily from Eeno, at which place we arrived in about an hour and a quarter from Truckee. RENO. This station is a very important one on account of its rail- way connections in all directions to its extensive patronizing districts, that have made the place, with a population of 4,500, a centre of large business activities, as well as one of metro- politan and educational importance. The State University is here located, and is said to be a very imposing group of buildings. It is from this point that connections are made to the Comstock mines, to which reference has already been made in other rela- tions. And, now that we are so near to the Comstock lode, and since the fame of Nevada became so world-wide on account of the wonderful richness of this deposit, it will, no doubt, be allowed to refresh our memories by reverting somewhat again to its pro- ductiveness by a statement of facts, in addition to what was The San Francisco Club. 317 before said in connection with "Lucky Baldwin's" exploitation of the same. While some may consider this data to be ancient history, yet, as these facts were the chief factors in bringing Nevada into such prominence before the world, it seems in place to call attention, at least briefly, to what would be suggested more or less dimly to the most of us in passing. In a report of the Mechanics' Institute, of San Francisco, the combined product of the Comstock lode for the five years ending with 1866, was, in round numbers, $63,000,000. The dividends of ten mines of this lode for the second quarter of 1867 was $1,178,200. It was also estimated that the loss from the tail- ings of the lode in the Carson Eiver during its productive period was $40,000,000. Also, that the production of the County of Shorey, in which the lode is located, for the year 1866, was $14,167,071, which, converted into United States currency at that time, was equal in value to $18,073,000. That of the same for the first six months of 1867 was $10,115,000. The total production of nine mines of the State from their opening, to March, 1882, was $133,321,050. Therefore, it may readily be seen by a reviewal of these figures why it was desirable to visit these centres of fabulous wealth with expectation that values might be found "lying around loose," waiting to be appropriated, and, therefore, so available that once upon the ground one might fill his pockets at will. At least we recall a stanza of a song that, as a boy, we learned just after the discovery of gold in California in '49, that runs as follows : "Come along ; come along, make no delay. Come from every nation, come from every wave. For our land is broad enough, don't be alarmed, For Uncle Sam is rich enough to give us all a farm." The last line of the second stanza affirms that upon our arrival upon the promised soil "We'd dig up lumps as big as brick^' of the precious metals. 318 The Pilgrimage of It is, therefore, readily seen how difficult a matter it was to restrain Sir Knight Rudy from going thither instanter, with- out waiting even so long as to light his "2-fer." But the train was now in motion, and he was prevailed upon to become calm, until we could make our next stop. Meanwhile, falling back upon another "3-fer," he became, in time, somewhat more com- posed. In our transit thus far it has been quite perceptible that the downward grade has been continuous, being something over 1,300 feet since leaving Truckee, thirtj'-five miles to our rear. About the same distance forward, after a further descent of 400 feet, we reach Wadsworth — a town of about the same size as Truckee, of which latter we have been kept reminded by its river, to which we have clung quite closely for the past two or more hours. The pretty little park at the station, and the neat little cottages across the area, at the rear of the same, attract our attention, as we exercise by a promenade along the platform tliat borders the length of the said verdant strip. Evidences of irrigation are manifest in the fresh condition of the same. The railway shops of the division being located here — a change of locomotives and crews give us the little aforesaid muscular respite that we have enjoyed. 0/ W \i/ o o o The San Francisco Club. 319 CHAPTER XLII. A DIGEESSION. Before, however, resuming our narration in relation to points further east, it may be allowed to comment further upon the course of the Truckee Eiver, to which, at this point, we must bid farewell. After leaving Wadsworth, the river swerves almost due north — the general course of the railway being northeast. Our reason for this digression at this juncture is the fact that the Truckee empties into Pyramid Lake, at a point about twenty miles north of this place, and thus becomes specifically con- nected with a very interesting piece of history, identified with the original exploration of this region by the first white man that ever crossed these plains. Hence, with the mention of Pyramid Lake, a precious flood of memories rush upon us in connection with the discovery of the same by Capt. Jno. C. Fremont, in charge of the United States Exploring Expedition that was authorized by Act of Congress, and extended its func- tions over the years of 1842 and 1844, inclusive. The country explored in this region extended from the South Pass of the Eockies, westward over the Sierra Nevada to North California. His route, therefore, led him, after crossing the northern part of the Nevada Basin, toward the Sierras into the neighbor- hood of this lake, which he discovered on January 10, 1844. Of the details of this expedition we read with much interest in our boyhood days, and can recall with what pleasure we enter- tained the thought of being permitted some day to see something of this region, even though it might appear to be never so deso- late — he having invested it with so many attractions; and, at length successfully accomplished the arduous task committed to him. Among his party was the famous guide and scout. Kit Carson, after whom the city, near which we have just passed, was named. THE NAEBATION. To quote, briefly, from Captain Fremont's diary of the said 320 The Pilgrimage of and following date, we note him as saying: "In continuing the reconnaissance of the basin, along the mountain ridge, we found a hollow leading up from the basin into the mountain, which we followed, intending to see what lay beyond the mountain. The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass, the snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Be- yond, a defile between the mountains descended rapidly about 2,000 feet; and, filling up all the lower space, was a sheet of green water, some twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes like the ocean. The neighboring peaks rose high above us, and we ascended one of them to get a better view. The waves were curling in the breeze, and their dark green color showed it to be a body of deep water. For a long time, we sat enjoying the view, for we had become fatigued with the mountains, and the free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set like a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to enclose it almost entirely. At its western end, it communicated with the line of basins we had left a few days since: and, upon the side opposite to us, it swept a ridge of snowy mountains, the foot of the great Sierra. From its rugged mountain sur- roundings, we concluded it to be some unknown body of water, which it afterward proved to be. On the following day we en- camped within a mile of the margin of the lake. We found the water slightly salt, though pleasant to drink, when no other could be had. The shore was rocky — a handsome beach, which reminded us of the sea. Where we halted appeared to be a favorite camping place for the Indians." After relating the experiences upon the shore of the lake, noting the botanical and mineralogical character of the environs, the flocks of wild sheep upon the steeps, the ducks upon the waves, the fish sporting below and the snow-storm that bore down upon them, the Captain resumed his narrative as follows : January 14. "The snow rapidly melted under a warm sun; and, making but nine miles of an advance during the day, we encamped upon the shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in the lake, which had attracted our attention for many miles. It rose, according to our estimate, 600 feet above the water; and, The San Francisco Club. 321 from the point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of the great Pyramid of Cheops. Like other rocks along the shore, it seemed to be incrusted with calcareous cement. This striking feature suggested the name for the lake, and I called it Pyra- mid Lake." Learning from an Indian, that Fremont persuaded to come into camp, that there was a river at the lower end of the lake, and, later, upon arriving there, that it flowed into the lake and not out, he became satisfied that both river and lake had, before, been unknown to the white man. Learning, later, also, from another Indian, that the river issued from the mountains and had its source from a lake some three to four days' journey from the base, we have here confirmed the earliest reference to the Truckee. The further course of Fremont over the range, upon a route at a greater or less distance from the bed of what is evi- dently the same river, furnishes a feast of interest that is, to-day, by no means tame. Moreover, his original conception of con- necting the headwaters of the Missouri with the Pacific coast by rail — thus to combine railway and steamboat navigation, was a long step toward the realization of what w^e enjoy to-day. But the Special moves onward and has provided no margin of time for these side issues, and, therefore, we must curb our propensity to run off at a tangent. The next station, known as Hot Springs, upon our route, is some thirty miles from Wadsworth, and lies upon the southern side of the railway. We thought, at first suggestion, that these might be the springs that were discovered by Fremont some four days before he discovered Pyramid Lake, but, upon refer- ring to his Diary, we see that he locates the Hot Springs of liis discovery at a latitude of 40° 39" 46' — it being recalled that the latitude of the southern terminus of Pyramid Lake was exactly that of 40° ; and that the altitude of said lake is 4,890 feet, or 700 feet higher than the Great Salt Lake, whereas that of the Hot Springs, upon the railway, is 4,074 feet, and the latitude of the same 39° 55", and lying to the southeast of Pyramid Lake — Fremont's Springs being to the northeast. In ■speaking of his discovery, Fremont says that the basin of the 31 323 The Pilgrimage of larffest one has a circumference of several hundred feet; and there is at one extremity a circular space of about fifteen feet in diameter, entirelj' occupied by boiling water. It boils up at irregular intervals and with much noise. The water is clear and the spring deep. It was surrounded, on the margin, with a border of green grass, and near the shore the temperature was 306°." It was, therefore, evident that the springs we pa'ss are not those discovered by Fremont. This much, however, is evi- dent: that we are in the same volcanic region as that traversed by him, whose subterranean fires are not far below the surface over which we now hasten. The proximity of the aforesaid lake and others within a radius of fifty miles from the point that we now occupy have named this the Lake Eegion. Winnemucca Lake, some 15 by 10 miles in area, lies about five miles to the northeast of Pyramid Lake, and has an outlet of a small stream that enters the Truckee a short distance below the southern extremity of said lake. The lakes of Carson Sink and Carson Lake proper lie about thirty miles to the south of the said railway station — the two being connected by a stream of water that, in the flood season, becomes so swollen that the two lakes become really one. The Carson River, that takes its rise in the region of Lake Tahoe, empties into Carson Lake. Walker Lake lies at a distance south of Carson Lake about equal to that of the latter from the Hot Springs Station. The Mud Lakes lie north and north- east of Pyramid Lake — the largest being known as Upper Mud Lake, and as of about the same area as Walker Lake, viz, 30 by 50 miles. The remarkable characteristic of all these lakes is, that they have no outlet and that their volume seems to be reduced only by evaporation — that of Pyramid Lake, as stated l)y Fremont, varying in level as much as twelve feet from high-water mark. WHITE PLAINS, some twenty miles beyond, next engages our attention, lying, as it does, upon the borders of the Mirage Plains, that stretch away oft' to the south like a sea of sand, and, hence, thinking The San Francisco Club. 323 how the same could be utilized, it was suggested that it would be a good site for a glass factory; and as Sir Knight Eudy is in the stained-glass business, we thought it probable he might be induced to set up business here and to add the bottle de- partment thereto, for which he might be qualified to be the chief "blower." This, we think, is about the nearest that he could ' be induced to patronize the bottle — his propensity being to invest his surplus in the proverbial "2-fer." HUMBOLT LAKE. Speeding onward, we reach Brown's Station, fifteen miles farther across the Great Basin, at this point a view is had of another lake that may be considered as part of the lake region, although upon the frontier thereof, viz, Humbolt Lake — the last of any moment upon our route until we reach the Great Salt Lake. Humbolt Lake, like many of those in the course of the Columbia Eiver, is really but the expansion of the river of the same name. This river is about 350 miles long, and the lake is about the area as those of Walker and the Upper Mud Lakes. The surplus water, over and above that used for irrigation purposes and evaporation, flows southwestward into the Carson Lakes, as already mentioned. LOVELOCKS. A further advance of fifteen miles brings us to the station of Lovelocks, whose population, of some 900, and its surround- ings affords us something of a refreshing change from the monotony that seemed for many miles previous to have settled upon us like a nightmare. The proximity, however, of the town to Humbolt Eiver has enabled its promoters to avail themselves of the facilities afforded for irrigation — a fact that still further demonstrates that all that is necessary to improve the greater part of this region is to enlist a general resort to the use of such means. Moreover, since our course wall follow that river for some two hundred miles, at a greater or less remove therefrom, we would expect, under ordinary circum- stances, to see a cultivated strip of ground during our transit along the same. 324 The Pilgrimage of OREANA AND RYE PATCH. Some thirteen miles farther we approach Oreana, that ap- pears to be principally a place of residence for a small com- munity of those engaged in mining interests. Rye Patch, some ten miles farther upon our way, wath its peculiar name, excited our curiosity to discover the reason for its being so named. We saw small tracts of ground, however, covered with what is here known as wild rye, and that it re- sembles what we have seen in the Southern Border States, and is there known as "broom sedge." It would seem to be of no value for pasturage, unless it be in its young, tender state, during the early spring. The chief support of this hamlet is its connection, as in the case of Oreana, with the mining interests developed within reach of the same upon the line of the road. During the next eleven miles the same monotony, that was experienced before arriving within the valley of the Humbolt, began to settle upon us, and we feared, it would monopolize the balance of the day, until we arrived at o o o The San Francisco Club. 325 CHAPTER XLIII. HUMBOLT STATION. Here, however, we were agreeably surprised to find, within the area of about an acre, what has really as much right to be called an oasis as any within the bounds of the Great Sahara. The course of the river having been bearing away northeast- wardly from the railroad after leaving Oreana, it here runs about some five miles distant from our course, and, therefore, the surroundings of the station were as desolate as of any late passed over. And, hence, to find here such a pretty little park, surrounded by a large and vigorous gro^vth of eucalyptus trees, a pretty lawn, fresh and green, and a central fountain throw- ing heavenward its jet of water, that descends in graceful curves of sparkling jewels, apparently as precious as those of the lapi- dary — a fit complement to the urns of flowers that graced the portico fronting the refreshment rooms — facts that carry us back to the land that we have left beyond the range — a scene to be fully appreciated here because of its marked contrast with the desert heath around. This being a regular stopping place for all passenger trains, the accommodations for entertainment are ever ample; and, as we looked into the dining-room, we saw the tables ready spread for all possible patrons. The companion of the writer having stopped here for supper some twenty years ago, she reports that more than a hundred from her train were at that time here ac- commodated. It is, therefore, seen that this oasis is some- thing more than a mere mushroom improvised for the inspec- tion of the Special. Hence, the members of the Club could enjoy to the full all that greeted the eye, and had the Special not been supplied with its own larder, we, no doubt, would have been pleased to have patronized the tables wnthin. As the sun, also, was declining toward its v.estern setting, we had a pleasant part of the day upon which to relax our limbs upon the side- walks beneath the luxuriant shade. )26 The Pilgrimage of "All aboard," however, compels a reluctant assent, and we are again in motion. Having now reached the base of the Humbolt Mountains, that bar the way to a further direct route, Star Peak — the highest of the range — beingseen some seven miles distant, the river takes a course almost due north from this point, and the railway of course must follow. This course is continued a^ far as Winnemucca Station, for some forty miles, from which the river and railway sweeps around the northern end of the East Humbolt Eange, and thence returns southward for about an equal distance, when our northeast course is again resumed to the borders of the Great Salt Lake. WINNEMUCCA. This town of Winnemucca is said to have derived its name from that of an Indian chief that once held sway over these regions. The town is of sufficient importance to mention as being the county seat of Humbolt County, and as having, it is reported, a population of 2,000. The people are chiefly en- gaged in trade with the mining regions and ranches of the little valleys that converge to this one. But little of the town was visible from the train in passing. Call for dinner, and its usual detentions closed the views of the outer world and the transcripts of the day. SABBATH MORN. The early hours of Sunday, the 11th, disclosed our passage over an arm of Salt Lake, and those of the Club that could rub their eyes open, upon looking out, found themselves moving over an expanse of waters, upon a pile-supported system of trestlework, some fifteen miles long. By this cut-off, the long detour around the northern head of the lake by the regular line was avoided, and a distance of some forty miles was saved. Therefore, we reached Ogden about 6 A. M., where the Special was scheduled to stop for forty minutes. Two trains, however, occupying the sidings between the Special and the station, those desiring to visit the latter had to pass around the said trains. The writer was one so desiring, and though apparently loitering The San Francisco Club. 327 thereabouts not more than live or ten minutes, he then returned by the same devious course, when, lo ! and behold ! the Special had flown, and was already out of sight upon its way to the Holy City. To follow afoot at this disadvantage was not to be discussed, and so something else had to be devised. Our program being thus ruthlessly disturbed, the question was sug- gested as to whether we should be content to interview the Mor- mons of Ogden, or still seek, under better auspices, to hold direct communication with the apostles at the fountain-head. The latter, upon reflection, still seemed preferable. Meanwhile, upon inquiry, we learned that a train would leave for Salt Lake City after a lapse of an hour, and, therefore, we would still have a pretty full day in and about the Temple. Now, how further this hour was improved, we have not di- vulged in full, and yet the sapient ones of the Club have sur- mised that our apparent mishap was a matter of premeditation in giving our guardians the slip, and, therfore, in solution of the enigma, in addition to what Sir Knight Macklin has re- corded, another poetaster issued the following doggerel, as ad- dressed to one of the Club : My Dear Sir Knight Will recall the sad plight Of the luckless wight Who, in absence of mind. Was left behind At Ogden. 'Tis true, that 'twas said. That the Mormon error Had for him no terror. And, hence, 'twas plead Why he was led To stop at Ogden. And what further was indited, deponent saith not. At all events, the said renegade arrived at Salt Lake City in time for breakfast, and subsequently to make his program for the day upon assurances given that he was not to visit the En- 328 The Pilgrimage of dowment House to take an}' personal part in any Mormon mar- riage "stealing/' SALT LAKE CITY. The program of the writer and his companion was soon for- mulated, however, and we thereupon took a walk into the city until church hour, when we visited the M. E. Church and heard a sermon delivered to the faithful few who there do con- gregate. We happened to be present upon finance day, and learned that the exchequer of the church there was about as needy as some of our eastern churches, while the demands for the dissemination of the truth hereabouts, appears to be much more unquestionable. As regards the experiences of the balance of the Club during the day, we will have to call upon Sir Knight Macklin to com- plete the record. He, therefore, writes as follows : "The season at Saltaire, the great bathing resort on Salt Lake, is closed, but a special train was run out for those that desired to go. The waters, as many know, are so impregnated with salt that one can not sink in tliem. You just float about like a cork, without moving one of your fins. J. A. Knight sat upright in the waters of the lake and smoked a cigar, and Joe, well, he l)obbed about on the waves like a floater on a fish-line. I think Parker, also, was in pickle, the first general wash he has had since leaving home. Salt Lake City, the home of the Mormons, as a town of magnificent distances, as is indicated by the fact that its population is 75,000. and it has seventy-five miles of street railway. There are 45,000 Mormons residing in the city; and, beside the great Mormon temple and taber- nacle (the former of which cost $4,000,000, there are thirty-five small ^Mormon churches, or one to every three blocks in the city. They are certainly an industrious religious sect, and get in their work among the young people every time. Mr. Manning asked a little girl, on her way to ^lormon Sunday-school, how many brothers and sisters she had? She replied, Avith pride, forty- three. I went, with others, to see the tabernacle, in the morn- ing. A very zealous i\Iormon was our guide. After telling us The San Francisco Club. 329 all about its conception and construction, its dimensions, 150x250x80 feet, the finest organ in the world, etc., we went back 200 feet from the pulpits and heard a pin drop at the other end. The Mormons believe that the acoustic properties of this structure are of miracular origin. Our guide then preached our little party of ten persons a sermon, claiming that the only difference between our belief and theirs was that they maintained the doctrine of continuous revelation, visions and unmistakable Divine direction in things material. I told him we could not subscribe to that interpretation of the Bible; and that, further, we did believe that forms of worship or eccle- siastical interpretations were essential to human happiness or salvation ; that religion was a matter of the heart and not of the head. "In the afternoon, at 2 o'clock, we heard Eev. Taylor preach, and the great choir of 500 voices sing. This family has in- creased very rapidly since Brigham Young came over the plains with 143 men, 3 women, 2 children, 70 wagons and 1 cannon, in the forties. Over the door of Zion's Co-operative Store of Salt Lake are the words, "Holiness to the Lord." This place does a business of $5,000,000 a year." GLENWOOD SPRINGS. "We left the Mormons to their idols, their political scheming and general trickery and, after a night's ride over the steep grades of a mountain range, we came to Glenwood Springs, that was, indeed, a revelation to us, in the grandeur of its sur- roundings, it being set in a contour of the mountains between which the Grand River, muddy from the washings of the mines above, finds its rapid way. The game-keeper of this section in- formed the writer that there is no case of rheumatism that does not take wings and fly away after treatment in the vapor caves and hot springs of this region. A magnificent and commodious hotel in the midst of a great sweep of green and well-shaped lawns and fountains of water, entertain the well-to-do invalid and traveler to these healing fountains. There are fifty hot springs in the vicinity of Glenwood, that 330 The Pilgrimage of boil up out of the earth. The Mammoth hot spring, or bathing pool, is 600 feet long, 110 feet wide and 5 feet deep. The tem- perature is 137 degrees, and cold water flows in constantly to keep it at bathing temperature. It is open to the sky, and into the hot sulphur pool many of the Pilgrims plunge and divest themselves of a thick coating of alkali dust, taken on while crossing the N^evada desert. Others go into the vapor caves and sweat it out. We drink from the boiling hot sulphur water drinking pool, that flows 1,700 gallons a minute, but it is not as palatable as some of Baggagemaster Burkholder's soft drinks. If some of our old rheumatics from the East could come here, they would get a new lease of life and think it worth living. Diseases of the liver and skin are also banished, and digestion goes on as the Lord intended it should, and dull people are made bright, and a wife, ill-tempered, not by nature but by in- digestion, ripens into an angel." Xow, as regards the wonderful eflBciency of these waters to transform even a perverse better-half into an angelic form, the writer cannot speak from experience, nor does the Sir Knight attempt to tell of their effects in this line upon one of vigorous health, should one such here indulge. We do admit, also, that we have not conversed with him in regard to what creed he en- dorses, but we will take it for granted that he does not advocate "works of supererogation," and, hence, the writer thinks that the Sir Knight will agree that as our companion, with many others of the Special, are already angels, it would have been superfluous for these to have indulged in such nauseating potations (as he would have us infer these to be), the effect of which might have been to degenerate, rather than intensify, their angelic qualities. At all events, we heard of none bearing away with them any of the bottled reputed nectar. We will, therefore, allow the Sir Knight to ruminate for the time being, until he shall be able to refute or confirm, the truth of the epitaph of an experimenter in this line on whose tomb was the following in- scription : "I was well. I wanted to be better. I took physic, and here I lie." The San Francisco Club. 331 CHAPTER XLIV. UPON THE GRAND EIVEE. And, now that we are upon the Grand, we take advantage, during the early hours of mid-day, to follow its course, explore its canon, and thus be permitted to enjoy a portion of its wild scenery in our upward progress to the pass that is to admit us to our next scheduled place of rest. As if, however, to prepare us by a temporary suspension of vision, the light of day is sud- denly extinguished by our passage through three tunnels in close connection, of varying length. These having been passed through, we find ourselves in a position to note the fact of our upward climb. And, as we thread our way in conformity to the sinuosities of the river, the result of these successive experi- ences is brought home to us, in that, while some of these canons are more sublime in the audacity of their environing walls than others, yet all present such a variety of features that we are not permitted for a moment to relapse into ennui, but, on the contrary, ever find visions new to occupy the mind and gratify the taste. Thus, the tourist not only finds entertainment in the rich successions of colossal mountain views, but sees, also, in the rocky formations around him materials for study that excite wonder, as well as afford means for mental enrichment. Under the alchemy of Nature's crucibles the alternations of sedimen- tary deposits and transformed dikes are brought to view, as the more friable portions of the uplifted strata are wasted, and the residue wrought into spire, tower and peak to defy awhile longer the perpetual war of the elements — an exhibit in which the Titan sculptor shows his handiwork in various stages of develop- ment, that the same may be in plan and form the model of the architect of to-day for the more minute detail of column, entablature and finial — the inexpert tourist meanwhile absorbing the work in its various states of completion, in form and color. Hence, we now note, as we pass the more finished touches of 332 The Pilgrimage of the upper works, while the structures of the base of tlie rocky formations are being wrought out in part by the agencies of the present to evolve, as it were, subjects of contemplation for even the most casual observer, that he, too, may appropriate some of the rich tracery of the colossal plans that, for ages, have re- sponded only to the smiles of the orb of day. As, however, in the works of men, the graceful styles of the Orient, as illustrated in the pointed of the Gothic, are contrasted with the dome and ponderous basal structure of an Angelo and a Wren, so, now, we enter the higher reaches of the canon, where pyramid, buttress, wall and continuous line of escarpment come into view, that, in their lines of stratification, prove their ancient origin as sedimentary under submergence, and thus held for the inspec- tion of the modern inquirer. It is true that confusion seems to be the prominent feature of the outlook, as if some horde of rival builders had come upon the scene and expelled the Titan workmen in their labors, and then abandoned the fray to the agencies of denudation to render the lines more graceful, and convert the serrated into the ponderous dome or the isolated peak. The landscape enthusiast and the resourceful geologist may, therefore, still find sufficient material to detain them longer amid these environs, while the Special passes to other scenes beyond, ere the declining day shut out further phases of the varying succession. THE CANON. But not as yet are we released from the canon, but, on the contrary, evidences seem to accumulate that we are about to be driven into a cul-de-sac (or pocket), as the French savant would say, and there be left to ruminate at will. The track croAvds still more closely to the river, the bluffs overhang more threateningly, and the gloom is intensified by the blackened as- pect of the entire enviromnment ; and, therefore, we are all expec- tancy to know the cause, since the impending shades are more intense than the shadows of an obscured sun would suggest at such an early hour of the afternoon. The cause, however, is soon revealed by our approach to the extensive lava beds, com- The San Francisco Club. 333 posed of the refuse scoria of comparatively late volcanic action. We have now, at length, discovered the scene of the blacksmith fires of the Titan workmen in which they wrought their tools for the stupendous masonry that we have so recently viewed en route — fires that, of course, upon the interruption of the work, would of necessity expire, leaving behind only the cinders to mark the spot of the forges of the workmen. And, as we view the precipitous depth of the blackened, porous mass of scoria upon the river bank in varying height, like the dumps of our most extensive blast furnaces, the illusion is so strong that we at first debate if the agency of man was not employed to dump here his refuse of cinder. But the mass, and the extent of the deposit, compel the admission that the fires that were the source of this blackened accumulation were more stupendous than the most herculean of man's pyrotechnics. And so fresh, too, do these deposits seem, in their unsullied blackness, that we are constrained to ask if they really could have here been dumped in prehistoric times, or were they but the abandoned refuse of the forces whose activities we so recently witnessed at Glen- wood, as spouting forth aqueous floods, whose intensity of heat left no suspicion of the existence of those subterranean fires that ever and anon in this region exhibit pristine 'vigor. And, yet, we are even now reminded that the palpable effects of these intense forces do give place to those that have been conquering elsewhere even, though we may admit their having commenced their active aggression at an earlier date, as shown upon all sides, as we pass from the Canon of the Grand over the divide into the broader valley of THE EAGLE. The attractions of advanced vegetation, under culture, gives a tranquil change from the evidences of disturbance that we have just left behind — the sequel to a like order of things that once obtained in this valley also at an earlier stage in the earth's history — an earnest that those heights just traversed will give place also to the incidents of that period — when "Every valley shall be filled, and every mountain and hill shall be brought 334 The Pilgrimage of ](nv ; and iUv crooktHl shall \)v made strai<;lit and tlio rough places sliall he made smooth." The evidenees of man's ])artial and ultimate supremacy in being al)l(' to \itili'/e tliese I'orces of Nature are seen in our fur- ther progress in passing the successive stations, hamlets and villages upon our route, as if they had caught inspiration from the erystai water of the Eagle Hiver, in sm-h strong contrast with the cloudy stream of the Grand. It is here, too, that the trout is said to luxuriate in tlu^ir nu)st congenial element, and to afTord (wliauslless pleasure to th(> most ardent angler. The rre(|uent cultivated Held and pasture land, ranch house and herds of cattle enhance the charms of still-life and suggest the allitera- tion of |)eace, plenty and prosperity. A sojourn of a few days hei'c also would not be amiss, wo venture to say, to the most ])hlegnuitic of the duh. Meanwhile, we have passed Eagle, Sher- wood, Wolcott, Allenton, Avon and Minturn. We ha\(' lunv traversed some fifty-eight miles from Cilenwood, made an ascent of some 2,050 feet, and are content to rest a few minutes at the last-nanu>d station — the end of the railway division. MlNTinW. The town has a population of souu^ 500, is the location of the round-houses and re])air-shoj)s of the division, and is a regular stopping ])lace of all trains. EAGLE CANON. Leaving Minturn, we now enter the Canon of the Eagle; and, while its bordering environs are not so clifl'-like and awe- inspiring, yet they approach so near the river margin that the roadway has oft to encroach upon the same, and thus come within the ai'ea of their overhanging brows. Here and there a promi- nent clitr juts out from its evergreen franu'work, varying in height from one to two thousand feet, and, therefore, bar out the sunlight even at this hour of oui- passing. And, yet, we have, in the heart of the canon, evidences of the ever-ready activity of man to invade what would seem inaccessible, for almost at The San Francisco Club. 335 the vory .suminil. oi' what .sceincd Lo \n- n rrctili-wroii/^liL nlidi!, tlie lodgciH ol' KiiiKTH wava pcrcUitd againnl; lln- piciipitouH BJdeH, ravitiiWu^ l\u: lad iiial tlu; Hoanli for tli. cejjlie of important mining interehtfi. Among those of the iieighhor- hood, it maintaiuK large buHim;H8 connectionn with the world- renowned Leadville, that in locat<:;d only twenty-five mileK dis- tant. Its bu«ine«K interestH, however, do not overehadow the fact that, nestling at the height of 8,008 feet, in the midst of tlie most sublime scenery of canon and jnountain height, it naturally utilijces the pure invigorating air and pelucid wat/;rs of the Eagle liiver, near its very sources — a fact that gives it original claim upon the tourist and the w^eker aft(;r health. Moreover, when it is recalled that Re^l ('liff is the nearest point of transit t/> the Mountain of the ffoly Cross, that lifts its giddy summit to the height of 14,170 feet above its peers of the range, it will ever make this point one of increasing interest. 336 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER XLV. THE HOLY CEOSS MOUNTAIN. Thus situated, in close companionship with the said peers of the Sagauche Eange (seven of which exceed 14,000 feet in alti- tude), this feature cannot but add to, rather than detract from, the environment of Eed Cliff, in conjunction with the associa- tions of the Holy Cross, that are considered by many to be a specialty of themselves in the role of mountain exhibits, even among the stalwarts of Colorado's champion peaks. Accepting, then, the verdict of the consensus of even the least impressive of the Club, we venture the assertion that the bare mention of the name of the Holy Cross appeals not only to the aesthetic, but also to the most sacred emotions of the human heart, when, under the inspiration of memory, we recall what we have read and seen of the sublimity of this massive peak, as delineated upon the canvas of the gifted artist. Therefore, as previously adverted to in connection with the experience of the writer, in gazing upon the original of Bierstadt's Donner Lake, we affirm also that like emotions have been duplicated in the case of its acknowledged counterpart of the Holy Cross by Thomas Moran, which the older members of the Club, no doubt, also saw on exhibition upon the same walls of the said Centennial at Phila- delphia. In referring to the name of Thomas Moran, in passing, some of us will recall also others of the masterpieces of the same artist that are identified with the beauties of these western wilds, and that are so rich in their suggestiveness to these interpreters of nature, who, with their colleagues of the poetic guild, are qualified to convey to other minds than the mere tourist these enchanting scenes that otherwise would be enjoyed by but the comparative few. Therefore, in addition to his work of the Holy Cross, we may add his paintings of "The Grand Canon of The San Francisco Club. 337 the Yellowstone" and "The Chasm of the Colorado," both of which were purchased by Congress to adorn the Capitol at Wash- ington at a cost of $10,000 each. May we not, therefore, be* pardoned for our evident enthusiasm in wishing to see the original of the said masterpiece of the Holy Cross in its native setting; not only as a sublime specimen of N^ature's handiwork, but also in its associated relations with the period of its origin that antedates time primeval as the symbol of the "Lanil) slain from the foundation of the world." While realizing, therefore, its significance of to-day as the supremo ideal of the Christian Church, we, at the same time, recall this emblem as characteristic of the insignia of our beloved Order in connection with its diadem of the crown suggestive of the final award to the faithful ones, who, in the truthful reception of the regalia thereof realize that only in the heart and the life are the pledges that earn these guerdons of immortality. Therefore, though the conception of the cross existed only in purpose before time was, yet, in the fact that this mountain cross, in its virgin purity of snow, responded by its reflections to the rays of the first sun that gilded these upper heights, revealing their glories to the denizens of the skies before man walked this mundane sphere; yet we have in this manifestation the concrete prophecy of the final legacy to man upon that other Mount of Calvary, in which faith finds its consummation in the conception of the sublimity of sacrifice for others, in a relation that only the true Knight can apprehend. Therefore, we make no apology for the retention of the symbol as the supreme emblem of our fraternal association in the sphere of the present, being aware, meanwhile, of the reality of the deduction that the same still is and ever will be perennial in other relations in its influence to invigorate the crusade of the Christian Church. Therefore, further, we may not be accused of being too imaginative in linking the material beauties of this ob- ject of sense with those that are indissolubly associated with the realities of the spiritual sphere, that, in turn, are just as firmly rooted in the consciousness of the subject as are the outlines of the objects of vision upon the natural retina — the latter, indeed, 338 The Pilgrimage of being but the medium of communication with the outer world by the spiritual entity enthroned in the background. TENNESSEE PASS. And, now that we are making the final stage of ascent to the Tennessee Pass, that constitutes the divide, or water-shed, of the Pacific slope from the Atlantic, we naturally recall our ex- perience of twenty days previous in crossing the Great Divide of the Canadian Rockies, in which the incidents of Laggan, just left behind, and those of the Kicking Horse, immediately before us, with their thrilling associations are still fresh in our memories. It is true that the Canadian divide is but 5,396 feet of an alti- tude, and that of the Tennessee Pass, over which we are now passing, is 10,418 in height, yet the difference in latitude was more than compensated for in the snow-capped environs of the former, at the expense of the latter. Even at our present excess of elevation the dense forest growth on either hand restrict the view to an occasional glimpse only of the summits j\Its. Galena and Homestake (13,073 feet), near neighbors to the Holy Cross — views that give way without warning to a plunge into a tunnel of a half mile long, that, it is true, is conducive to reflection, but of the baser sort under the circumstances; and yet affording consolidation in the fact that "it is a long lane that has no turn" — a suggestion that was verified at length in our emergence therefrom upon the summit of the Pass, after an ascent of 1,810 feet within the distance of thirteen miles from Red Cliff station, that we have left behind us in the valley below. Taking, no\\% the down grade, the small station of Malta is soon reached — the junction of a branch line to Leadville, that is taken advantage of by those that would visit the "Cloudy City" en route to, or upon the return from the cities of the plateau upon the course before us at our feet. The succeeding stations of Gordon, Hayden and Twin Lakes are now passed rapidly and the station of Granite is reached, from which stage passage is made to said lakes, seven miles dis- tant, that have a combined length of four miles and lie at the great altitude of 9,360 some feet above the sea, and, therefore, as The San Francisco Cliib. 339 to altitude al lea«t, transcend thone of Lakes Louise and Mirror, of the Canadian Rockies. Since the itinerary does not provide for a trip to the Twins, as in the ease of the latter lakes, we must leave their attractions to other eye witnesses to describe. The Sj)e(ial, still retaining her late "hustle," passes, mean- while, the little stations of Pine Creek, Riverside and Americus in twice so many minutes over the intervening space of seventeen miles, and a descent of 9T5 feet to Buena Vista. It is at this point that we first strike the Arkansas River, along whose course we will now descend for the balance of the day still left us. BUENA VISTA, being a coiuity seat and situated in close touch with a prolific mining region of the precious metals, with tracts of grazing lands and those of the hardier cereals, it bids fair to maintain, if not increase, its growth, having now a population approxi- mating '^,000, while possessing all the educational, business, as w^ell as sanitary conditions for which this region is proverbial. Being also the railway point of connection with the Cottonwood Hot Springs, some six miles distant, that are celebrated for their curative properties, as well a.« for their near proximity to the lofty mountain peaks of Harvard, Yale, Princeton and La Plata — each of which exceed 14,000 feet in altitude — a mountain en- vironment that is also shared by those of Princeton Hot Springs, that are but three miles more distant than the aforesaid, of which there are forty that issue an output of 1,000,000 gallons daily — facts, these, of conditions that will compel Glenwood to look well to its laurels, if its management would not have the denizens of Denver, Colorado Springs and other populous centres farther east to be more strongly attracted to these uplands and their inimitable environs But we dare not longer delay in this locality, even although so much be found to enlist our protracted attention, but upon the flying wheels of the Special we must make up for time already lost, as we hurry past the minor stations of Midway, Nathrop, Calumet, Heel a Junction and Brown Canon, beyond the last- named of which we pass through another wild gorge of the same 340 The Pilgrimage of name, whose confusedly-strewn rocks betokened that here, again, the Titans of old have been disturbed at their work and been compelled to leave their structures unfinished, and yet sufl&ciently alert as to take their tools with them. o o o The San Francisco Club. 365 CHAPTER XLIX. ENVIRONS OF MANITOU. Now that we are in Manitou, that time may be expedited, our company divide themselves into groups to visit the numerous points of interest, of the environs by routes that thitherward diverge — all of which, if possible, it is resolved to inspect in turn. No special order of procedure can, therefore, be maintained, though the majority by carriage, buss, or fiery burro turn first toward the Garden of the Gods. Sir Knight Henry and Mrs. H., with the writer, patronize a driver, apparently more intelli- gent than some of the dolts on hand, and, therefore, we are leisurely trundled over the well-kept road that circles about the hillocks, and penetrates every quarter of interest in the rock- renowned garden. THE GAEDEN OF THE GODS. The distance being two and a half miles, and the hour of the day most inviting, we soon reach the bounds of the Garden, and pass through the immense buttressed gateway — whose rock- portals of 330 feet high, with bases that sweep backward for the eighth of a mile, give promise of performing their duty for ages yet to come, though mute to announce when that func- tion began. The little central pyramid that, at a distance, seems to occupy the central background of ingress is simply the ever-present gate-keeper that waves the visitor to his left — the road beyond making the natural detour around the contiguous portal base into the open beyond. The detached mass of the BALANCED EOCK, some seventy-five feet high, standing in an apparent tilted posi- tion upon a ridge by the roadside, some five or more feet above the level of the latter, appears as if ready to roll into the de- pression beyond, and, being of a weight aggregating hundreds 3G6 The Pilgrimage of of tons, the instinctive feeling seizes one to congratulate him- self that the trend is not toward the roadway. The upper half presents the appearance of a hugh hood, or half burr, with its sharply defined lower rim enclosing the half of a nut-like en- closure — the burr of the lower half having disappeared. This shape of the rock would disclose, that the lower half, being of a more friable texture than the upper, has yielded more readily to erosion, and, therefore, in time, as the process continues, the lower section must waste more or less rapidly under like conditions, until the line of gravity falls without the base, to the final overthrow of the interesting phenomenon. But we will not take further time to draw up specifications as to when this catastrophe shall transpire. THE THREE GRACES. Leaving this ponderous form, the Three Graces, varying in height from 50 to 100 feet, in affectionate proximity to each other, arise upon our right and disclose, in their structure, the same composition of the prevailing type of these rock forma- tions, viz, that of reddish stratified sandstone, or sedimentary deposit that, in their original condition of loose sand, in the form of comminuted quartz (intermingled frequently with other mineral forms), was first precipitated to the bottom of some inland sea. The deposit then being continuous for long periods, became ultimately indurated and compacted by pres- sure of the superincumbent mass into rock texture of finer and coarser-grained stone, according to the size of the constituent grains. This solidifying process of pressure is often aided by the cementing action of the infiltration of calcareous silicious or ferriginous matter, which imparts the color to the mass — the latter being the cement that, in the case of these rocks, im- ]:)arts the reddish brown color that here prevails. In those cases, where subjected to intense or continuous metamorphic action, the sandstone piisses into (piartzite of greater or less refractory nature, and, therefore, we have the friable portions solvable, and the remainrler resisting erosive action when exposed thereto. But not at the bottom of the inland sea were these deposits per- The San Francisco Club. 367 mitted to rest, but under the action of the metamorphic sub- terranean forces these deposits, by violent upheaval, were ele- vated from their horizontal bed to their vertical position, as shown in this example of the Graces, and thereupon the de- nuding forces began to put in their work. Thus, the friable matter having been removed, the refractory centres still stand to defy a while longer the leveling processes. The appearance of the surrounding soil shows how, in the periods of the past, the aforesaid agencies have leveled the environs of these cliff- like formations that admit of the deduction that the same laws continue to operate that have wrought out the canons of the vicinity, though the dike formation of Old Pike laughs in his stony glee at the realization of a like prophecy upon his more obdurate flanks. CATHEDRAL SPIEES. But not alone do the Three Graces stand as if mistresses of the plain, but in near proximity do the Cathedral Spires and minarets more or less complete in their sterner and more grace- ful forms show similar cleavages of separation from their sup- porting neighbors, presenting alike their vertical strata and opening seams of greater or less amplitude, as the contest goes on that will ultimately conquer, and thus furnish a counterpart to the poets simile that — "Love, like death, levels all ranks and lays the shepherd's reed beside the sceptre." So, too. Old Pike, though now wearing the sceptre, must, in time, give way to the less imperious implements of peace S3^mbolized by the shepherd's reed or the "cock's shrill clarion." And, just beyond, upon the outer limits of the Cathedral group — duplicates in position to the portal-rocks of the entrance, stand as opposite twins that are, as yet, of pyramidal form, but, in their deep vertical fissures, show, nevertheless, that their proud flanks are being wasted, even though their summits seem not as yet to have attracted the full onslaught of the hostile forces that feed upon their broad shoulders. Under the fore- cast of their doom also, we pass on without a word of denial of what we see to be the inevitable. )68 The Pilgrimage of THE BEAR AXD THE SEAL. And now we approach closer to the massive background, with its fantastic configurations on summit and flanks, that have given specific names to complete forms and profiles. Upon the apex, we note the reliefs known as the Bear and the Seal — the former posing upon his haunches, ready to seize the seal, whose flippers rest upon the ledge, immediately in front of the bear, and it's tail resting upon the rim of a lower ledge — the daylight appearing between and below the extremities of the seal, and, at the same time, showing the complete tapering of the body and the perfection of the imitation. Other summit profiles adjoin, showing hooded and uncovered heads, and mantle enwrapped forms that give variety to the interesting pieces of statuary. Bands of gypsum also striate the deposit, and, lying just beyond the aforesaid group, another one is encountered, GYPSUM PYEAMID, whose formation is of this mineral entirely, and, therefore, con- trasts strongly with the dark red sandstone of its neighbors. We have, therefore, in this mineral substance another key to the formations of this region — gypsum being a sulphate of lime, and, therefore, shows in its combination the modifying effect of volcanic agencies upon organic matter, and how closely associated the sedimentary and metamorphic rocks were in the evolution of these unique developments. While, therefore, we admire the more advanced results in the granitic forms of Pike and his peers of the realm, we may not be forgetful that beauty and en- tertainment attaches to these transition periods that afl'ord such fruitful themes, in their connection with these phenomena of the lowlands, while intending no disparagement to the subject- matter of the higher altitudes. The specific samples that we saw of the said gypsum cliffs, in the form of souvenirs, carved upon the spot, seemed to be specimens of impure selenite, they appearing too cloudy to be pure, and not finely fibrous enough or sufficiently opalescent to be identified with satin spar. Nor could it be called alabaster, The San Francisco Club. 369 even though capable of considerable finish, as shown in these aforesaid samples. Finer strata, however, may be discovered later by deeper cutting into the mass beyond the influence of infil- tration. It will be recalled that this substance is used as a substi- tute for plaster of Paris in agriculture, which latter has the same basis. TOAD, HOUND'S HEAD, ETC. From this point we start upon our return, though by a some- what dift'erent route, upon which other bizarre forms are pointed out by our driver, such as the Toad, Hound's Head, Old Man's Wine Cellar, Washer Woman at work, the Lion and hu- man profiles in outline more or less complete. MAJOR DOMO. The columns of Major Domo and his attendant host arrayed in their ranks at an "attention," lie farther to the north than the Garden proper, being considered to be a part of Glen Eyrie, and, therefore, as the group is generally seen in connection with that locality, they naturally belong to that part of the pro- grram. 4/ W \l/ o o o 24 370 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER L. TEMPLE DRIVE. Returning thereupon to Manitou, horse, rider and vehicles are turned upon the course of the Temple Drive, so-called, that traverses the trend of Williams' Canon for a distance of some two miles. The first section of the way is overshadowed by walls of from 100 to 500 feet high. Having passed over the more or less level section, the second makes an ascent along the face of the west wall at a gentle grade — the road here being hewn out of the solid rock. As we pass the specialties of the Canon, the Temple, Cathedral, etc., come into view. In the NARROWS we have, in reduced dimensions, the portal rocks of the Royal Gorge — the opposite walls here approaching each other and af- fording an interval of but eight feet — this being the point of ingress to the wonderful canon that extends beyond for a dis- tance of some five miles into the very heart of the mountainous region. The convergence of the walls to, and their divergence from, this point is gradual but persistent, and apparently final (as approached from below), but is only found to be otherwise when actually reached. Hence, standing with the fissure at our rear, we look out through the wedge-shaped lower section of the gorge toward the lowlands and mountain horizon line in the background, whence the view is most enrapturing. At one's feet lies Manitou, like a jewel in the mountain bezel that, in its varicolored embossed environment, finds a befitting mounting — a proper setting for the diadem of the everlasting hills that here Join hands to encircle the brow of the occupant of Colo- rado's throne. Our present viewpoint grasps the Jewel; while the heights of Old Pike appropriate the diadem in all its glories, as irradiated by the flashes from the centre of light, compared with which the emanations from the facets of the Kohinoor are but the sheen of the glow-worm. The San Francisco Club. 371 CAVE OF THE WINDS. But not yet is the program exhausted, but from the beauties of the external world we are invited to pass throiigh the en- trance into the Cave of the Winds, and to explore the no less attractive aisles that penetrate the Carbonate Mountain to the distance of three-fourths of a mile. The cave is illuminated by magnesium light that, by the intense brilliancy, brings out to perfection the translucent qualities of column, stalactite and stalagmite of carbonate of lime, still in process of formation — the more crystalline forms of less magnitude being enlivened by the prismatic hues, that in myriad reflections transform the scene into successive galleries of beauty, and in their diverse aspects have conferred upon them the names of Canopy Hall, Boston and Chicago avenues, the Vestibule, Old Maids' Kitchen, Bridal Chamber, Curtain and Diamond Halls, and Crystal Palace. The prominent features of the three last-named make special impression upon the beholder, as experienced, for in- stance, in gazing upon the beautiful fluted drapery of the im- mense Curtain of the Hall, so-called, that, in its translucency, appears as if wrought of choice silken alabaster, and yet so grace- fully hung as to illustrate the name suggested. THE DIAMOND HALL, in its dimensions of 90 feet long, 12 high and 6 in breadth, dis- plays, upon its embossed walls, the rich varieties of pendant fes- toons of leaf and flower and corruscating wreaths, that catch the limpid light and return, in diamond showers, the varicolored flashes that confers the name upon the apartment. CEYSTAL PALACE divides with Diamond Hall in its elegance of appointments. The percolation of the water through the superincumbent mass of limestone, it is readily recalled, becoming surcharged with carbonic acid gas, and in its subsequent exposure to the open air of the cave, being evaporated ; the residuum carbonate is de- posited upon the pendant points of the ceiling, and then to these, in turn, is added another increment, until, icicle-like, the 373 The Pilgrimage of pendant either reaches the floor, or, being meanwhile robbed of a portion of its deposits by the continuous descending drops, the increments adhere to the floor and a growth upward is com- menced, as in the case of the stalactite, which is downward — the lower growth being designated as a stalagmite, and in the event of this growth continuing, the opposing growths meet, and thereafter a columnar growth is perpetuated, as seen in all their stages of development in one or more of these subterranean halls. In the Crystal Palace, however, the deposits are so in- finitesimally small that they continue more or less in solution in its humid air, and thus are more widely difl^used over ceiling and walls, and thereby is generated the alabaster veneering and film-like pendants of varying lengths and configurations that, like so many prisms, reflect the chaste illuminants, and thereby are transformed into rosettes and flower-like bosses in which the light runs riot, to the delight of the beholder and the despair of the decorator. Realizing the helplessness of language to enter upon a like verbal abandon of animated simile and glowing periods in the effort to reproduce in counterpart the impalpable dreams of these subterranean chambers, the scribe may well be pardoned in acknowledging his despair of being able to dip his pen into a receptacle of a like inspiration in competition with the limner of light. Who here has wrought His masterpieces. With these visions haunting the optic chambers of the mind, let us depart — the climax of reflections having been reached, at least so far as artificial light may be utilized to imitate the original illuminant of the upper chambers of the sky. GLEN EYRIE, as before mentioned, in connection with the Garden of the Gods, next claims the attention of those of the Club not yet satisfied with the grotesque in column, form and color of Nature's ma- sonry. The most noted of these pink-tinted sandstone pillars are the Cathedral Rocks, Major Domo, The Sisters, Vulcan's Anvil and Melrose Abbey, that, in turn, prolong the reveries of the geologist and the landscape painter. The San Francisco Club. 373 THE UTE PASS. Returning, again, to Manitou, the Ute Pass next comes in for consideration. Suggestive by name of aboriginal associations and identified thereby with the Ute tribe of Indians, it is known that in the earlier days of the Republic this pass was one of their trails to the plains and to the Manitou Springs. The name of the locality signifies Big Medicine, and is expressive of the estimate of the healing qualities of the waters among the "Children of the Forest." The famous Ute Iron Springs, and the hotel of the same name, are located within easy reach of the Pass. Without further loss of time, the Grand Caverns of Mani- tou, supplemental to those of the Cave of the Winds, are reached by the pass, and include a number of chambers of like carbonate formation and arranged in separate but unconnected groups, where stalactitic formations of varied lengths, shapes and posi- tions give names to the respective caverns. The Rotunda, Opera House, Natural Bridge, Gaudaloupe Dome and Concert Hall, with its pipes of stalactites, that not only resemble in form, but also somewhat of musical scale in tone under the stroke of the expert guide, who mounts to the organ loft to reach the imaginary key-board of the rock-wrought instrument towering thirty feet above the floor. To the sojourner of an indefinite time the attraction of Man- itou Park, twenty miles beyond, are said to be well worth a visit of exploration. Here, the enthusiasts of camp life are said to find their desires met in the fullest degree by the diversions of hunting, fishing and hotel lounging. CRYSTAL PARK, four miles to the south, and at an elevation of 1,500 feet above Manitou, is the terminus of a beautiful drive and the site of extensive outlooks. From this point Cameron Cone, that tow- ers to a height above 10,000 feet, is seen at its best. RED CANON. Had time admitted, no doubt many of the Club would have visited Red Canon, that is situated some three miles southeast- 374 The Pilgrimage of ward from Manitou, and is considered in its vermilion-tinted rocks to be a good counterpart to the specialties of the Garden of the Gods. These brilliant tints, in strong contrast with tlie evergreen surroundings, are said to present a most pleasing effect in the multitude of objects of interest, that in this locality divide the attention of the tourist public. THE MESA EOAD, also, is said to be, .as a drive, superior to the Temple Drive, already referred to from the fact of its being out in the open, and located upon the summit of an elevated plateau, that, level as a floor, stretches for some three miles or more toward the northeast, without an obstruction to disturb the comfort of the sight-seer in his transit over the same. Standing out, thus, in the open, clear of obstructing environs, the views in all directions are pronounced by those of the Club who traversed the same to be in kind unexcelled. The Garden of the Gods lies in the course thereto, about mid- way between Manitou and the Mesa Eoad, and, therefore, within easy reach also of Glen Eyrie, which really lies at the foot of the bluff, upon whose summit the road is located — thus adding another element to the unparalleled roster of wonders to be found within easy reach of Manitou, the centre, as some of the Club testified who participated in its luxuries, as their final experience upon their last return to Colorado Springs. Those of us, however, that followed a different program, preferred to give our last hour to Manitou itself, before returning to our point of departure of the morning. MANITOU, THE CENTEE. Indirectly, we have already spoken of Manitou in connec- tion with the beauty of its location and the sublimity of its en- vironment of mountain, plain, isolated cliff and verdure-crowned hillocks, and its almost innumerable canons, with their varieties of form and striking features of grandeur. While these char- acteristics conspire to ultimate a climax of attractions unequalled in their concentration upon a limited area by any other would-be The San Francisco Club. '37'5 rival in the same line, it possesses additional natural attractions that co-operate to make the centre something more than that of a mere duplicate of the Saratoga of the East. In the dryness and equability of its climate during the entire year, expert medical authorities have proven that it far excels that of any other pleasure and health resort, either of the Old or New World, when based upon the extremes of summer and winter as a standard. In the summer the cool breezes from the moun- tains reduce and preserve the temperature at such an agreeable average as permits of free movement at all hours of the day, while conserving, at the same time, the conditions requisite for refreshing sleep — two normal qualifications of health in the case both of the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. In winter the temperature is maintained at such a high aver- age, varying but from 60° to 75° for several hours of the day— a fact so patent that picknicking parties gather at will at the centres of recreation in the town, and frequently also wander out into the glens and canons that are within such easy reach. While snow is a perennial occupant of the heights within the con- stant range of vision, its visitations to this lower plain is so light in quantity and so infrequent in time that it is soon dissipated under the warm sun, that not only rapidly melts the fall, but, at the same time, is constant to counteract the severe tests that are so formidable to weakened physiques, that, under like cir- cumstances in our eastern climes, are so frequently attended with permanent adverse results. Then, too, as a valuable auxiliary to the same result, the great altitude of the site, some 6,300 feet above the sea, aids in re- ducing the liability to colds that prevails at this season in lower altitudes — this fact being also a valuable specific against the malarial and epidemic conditions to which the latter regions are so subject; and, indeed, we may say, perennially so. Therefore, to the healthy, immunity against sickness and unfailing sources of enjoyment are factors here ever to be banked upon; while, to the more or less invalided, these specifics conspire to tone the wasted energies and lay anew the constitutional foundation that is the prime prerequisite against the final inroads of disease. 376 The Pilgrimage of The altitude of Manitou being also some 300 feet above that of its neighbor — Colorado Springs, six miles distant, in consequence of its warmer winters and cooler summers, possesses advantages not possessed by the latter, while at the same time the prestige of Colorado Springs confers upon Manitou, metropolitan attrac- tions that are attainable only at popular centres — facts that are contributory to the interests of each. And, moreover, that these sanitary and tourist attractions may be within the reach of the public, it is obvious that the facilities for the entertainment of those that may seek the locality should be equal to the demands of all such. Therefore, from the standpoint of hostelries, it is a fact now well-known, from what we saw and others testified to, that the locality is not only well, but even luxuriantly equipped. HOTELS. Among the hotels, therefore, the following names recur as open to permanent or transient patronage, viz, Cliff, Iron Springs, Barker, Mansion, Sunnyside, Euxton and other smaller ones, with cottages of neat environs amid beautiful homes of the resi- dent populace. If, however, the aforementioned advantages exhausted the schedule of particulars that could be advanced in support of Manitou's claims in the regards aforementioned, then, perhaps, other points that we have spoken of in the Pilgrimage might come into competition therewith. When, however, we enter upon the specification of the medicinal springs, some eight or more in number, that dispense their imstinted blessings within the corporation limits, both in the quality and variety of the bill of fare, the credentials are complete and nothing more is left to be coveted by either the chronic globe-trotter or the most exacting valetudinarian. The San Francisco Club. 377 CHAPTER LI. THE MINERAL SPRINGS. In the very heart of Manitou, we have both soda and iron springs, having their respective individual merits as well as those of combined virtues. Taking the most prominent of those noted for their higher and lower percentages of carbonates, sulphates, chlorates, silicates and other mineral traces — it is seen that the Navajo is an easy first in all the aforementioned constituents, except that of iron — containing, in the aggregate, 25 grains of solids to the pint of water — the carbonates of soda and magnesia constitute two-thirds of the whole — the remaining ingredients being those of lime, lithia, silica and sulphate of potash. The Iron Springs and Little Chief have the monopoly of iron — the former aggregating 19.75 and the latter 15 grains to the pint, while both abound perceptibly in soda and lime. The Manitou Springs come next, with 18.2, and Shoshone, with 7 grains of the last-aforementioned constituents to the pint. Therefore, with such elements of choice at hand, and an in- telligent diagnosis easily procurable from the medical fraternity, whom we have always with us, the subject need not long delay, but, in effect, become immediately so exhilarated by his pota- tions, that, like one of old, "he may rejoice as a strong man to run a race." Or, recalling the effect of the waters of Glenwood as so ef- ficacious, in the law language of Sir Knight Macklin, in ma- turing on draft "an ill-tempered wife into an angel;" in like manner may the enthusiastic supporter of the claims of Manitou Springs declare, that he dispenses with the necessity of the probationary state of the angelic nature, and, therefore, passes over instanter his subject into the seraphic state. It is true that we did not instinctively recognize many such in our per- 378 The Pilgrimage of ambulations about Manitou. but so many members of the Club accompanied Sir Knight Macklin to Cripple Creek, among whom was the wife of the writer, it is inferred that he corralled all the candidates for the degree of seraph-hood to bear him company thitherward, and, therefore, our contingent at the Springs may have to be satisfied to cultivate awhile longer the amenities of this terrestrial sphere, even though we be required to tarry indefinitely in this locality to quaff, in due measure, of the elixir of Manitou. THE BETUEN. At this juncture, the Pike's Peak contingent thought it best to return to Colorado Springs to greet the arrival of the afore- said Seraphic Cripples. We did so, and upon their relating at large, what they were free to say, that we were deprived of by not having been with them, we were satisfied to infer that the}' would not have been content with our, to them, tame experi- ences. We, therefore, were eager to receive their report, that we, the orphans of the Club, might thereby, in a measure, find compensation for what we had lost. We are, therefore, indebted to the companion of the writer for the following, that we will accept as the contribution of that contingent of the Club, and permit the same to speak for itself. We have, therefore, the fol- lowing : CRIPPLE CREEK RECITAL. The section of the Club that chose to visit Cripple Creek, instead of braving the difficulties of Pike's Peak, left Colorado Springs about 9 o'clock A. M., for the mushroom city of the gold-mining region. In a brief space of time after leaving the station, we enter a region of surpassing loveliness, beautified by all the varieties of canon and gorge, mountain peak and pass, valley and vale, a continuous panorama of scenic wonders. Leaving Colorado Springs, at an altitude of 6,000 feet above the sea, we immediately begin the ascent of the circuitous route leading to the place of our destination. As we leave the lower level, upon our right may be seen the towering pinnacles of the The San Francisco Club. 379 Garden of the Gods, Colorado City and Manitou Springs. Cross- ing Bear Creek Canon, its romantic beauties are revealed to our now wondering gaze. Gradually th.e scene further unfolds and widens, as we continue to rise, and now Point Sublime comes into view at the altitude of 1,200 above the level of the sta- tion left but a few minutes before. Below us now is the famous North Cheyenne Canon, with its never-to-be-forgotten features. The charming suburbs of Broadmoor, with its conspicuous Cres- cent Lake, lies at our very feet, while Colorado Springs is in full view, with its special attractions; and, fading away into the uncertain horizon, stretch the rolling plains of the low- lands, bespangled here and there with lakes glistening in the sunlight. Continuing our course around the edge of the walls encircling Xorth Cheyenne Canon, we see, upon our right, the sparkling downpour of Silver Cascade, issuing from a point hundreds of feet above our heads. Xow, we reach Fairview, at which place we note the "confluence of the North and South Cheyenne Canons, whose stupendous gorges" afford pictures of "scenic grandeur that have become famous the world over." Having the advantage of a viewpoint of both canons from above, that is impossil)le of attainment at any point below (even by threading the courses of the canons), the advantage cannot be too highly appreciated of our present altitule. ST. PETEE'S DOME. Passing beyond, St. Peter's Dome next looms up, upon our right. "The ascent of this granite sentinel, guarding an en- trance to Soutli Cheyenne Canon, is a marvel of engineering skill and a wonder of the twenitth century. It seems impossible that the track seen upon the opposite side of the canon, hun- dreds of feet above our heads, should be the path we are to follow, but after a few turns, almost imperceptible (so smooth is the road-bed), we look down on the place we have passed with equal wonder. Ever and anon as we climb, and glory succeeds to glory, vista to vista, canon to canon, in ever changing and constant charms of vision, the matchless view of Colorado Springs and the environing plains is unfolded before the en- 380 The Pilgrimage of raptured gaze. All description is baffled ! There is nothing like it in the world. The view from the top of the dome is said to be the finest in Colorado." DUFFIELD is next reached, at a point eighteen miles distant from our starting point — the climb having now reached, in altitude, up- wards of 9,000 feet above the sea. After a further ascent of three miles, the summit of the range is reached, at a still greater altitude of 10,000 feet, at which point the summit is scaled by the train. From this height, one of the most sublime of views gladdens the eye of indescribable canons and mountain peaks without number. To the south, Pueblo, the manufactur- ing centre of the State, is seen, forty-five miles away — the city through whose suburbs we passed during the previous night on the route to Colorado Springs. THE DESCENT of the opposite side of the mountain is now commenced, and Eosemont, "The Magnificent," comes upon the scene, with its bewitching mountain park, surrounded and guarded by the monopoly of the region — a mountain environment. Previous to the experiences of the day, we had passed over many loops of railway track, but in this descent the climax seemed to be reached in the fact that as many as four views of the track are visible at one time, one above the other, that we must traverse, as we leap over torrents, plunge through wood- land preserves and twist around mountain spurs in our serpen- tine course to our last stopping place. CATHEDEAL PAEK. At th(? station of Clyde, the so-called Cathedral Park pre- sents its fantastic features to the visitor. To quote another, we have the vision of "rocks, torn by tempest and eroded by the winds of a thousand years, that here rear their heads in all manner of grotesque shapes. Towers there are, and steeples innumerable. The San Francisco Club. 381 flying buttresses and vaulted caves, leaping arches and the forms of mighty buildings, crowding each other in wild disorder." We are not, however, permitted to long indulge in the com- parisons here suggested, but soon have evidences that we are approaching the mining region of our final destination. Passing Cameron station, from which point branch lines lead away through other duplicate mountain regions of elevation and grandeur, that we must turn our backs upon, we soon reach Cripple Creek, that, owing to its connection with the wonderful gold production of the region, stands unrivalel in the world's history, when considered in relation to its limited area. The reported production of this precious metal from the time of its first successful mining, during a period of some thirteen years, have been upwards of $142,000,000 — the production of the year 1903 being about $22,000,000. CEIPPLE CEEEK AS A TOWN. Alighting from the train, we walked through the town, upon the main street, and saw a number of substantial buildings, many of which were built of brick, with many other evidences of permanent improvements that are said to contrast strongly with the crude beginnings of but little more than a decade of years ago. Having thus spent the greater part of an hour in thus taking in the town, we were satisfied to return to Colorado Springs, particularly since many of us were desirous of visiting points in near locality thereto, before the closing hours of the day would bar further possibilities in the line of sight-seeing. The glories of the return-trip more than intensified the ex- periences of the morning, for the reason, if no other, that even the same objects were seen from an opposite viewpoint, in addi- tion to other fields of view that a different visual angle made possible. But even under these circumstances we realized that a number of trips over the same route would not exhaust the possibilities of outlook and, therefore, the opportunities in this line of the resident contingent of the locality were almost to be envied. The return was safely made, and our intention to direct our explorations to another field of observation was real- ized without delay. 382 The Pilgrimage of The Cripple Creek contingent, having in squads, groups and couples, departed to visit the scenes that the Pike's Peak party had explored during the morning (the Peak excepted), the latter, upon wishing the said contingent bon voya-ge, scattered through the city and in other directions, to utilize the leisure yet at their disposal before the late "call to dinner" should close the program of the day. The writer being desirous of seeing something of Cheyenne Canon and the environs of Broadmoor Hotel and Stratton Park, which are located some four and a half miles from the city, concluded to do so at this juncture Taking the rapid-transit trolley, we soon reached the hotel, and the lakes and park in close touch to the same. We wandered at will around the first-named ; among the herd of burros and their drivers, awaiting the patronage of those desiring to explore the canon and points beyond ; along the borders of the lakes that mir- rored the peaks and monarch trees of the glen, and threaded our way upon the devious paths of the park to the elevated plateau beyond, that overtops the plane of the prattling Chey- enne Creek, that had just escaped from the cascades of the canon. Upon consulting our time-piece, we found the hour to be too late to admit of our pushing our way into the upper reaches of the glen, that we might pass between the Columns of Hercules, that guard the pass into the South Canon ; and, thence, mount the long staircase that borders the Seven Falls. These are so named because of the seven successive leaps, cov- ering the declivity of 234 feet, to the top of which said stair- case leads and near which lie the last remains of the gifted Helen Hunt Jackson, who loved so well to revel in the scenes of this mountain locality, and with facile pen to transfer their in- exhaustible beauties to the glowing page. It was, therefore, with an effort that we turned away, imder the consciousness that we were so near, and yet so far, "from the spot replete with so many sacred associations." Leaving the park at our rear, we next traversed the plateau by direct course to the pavilion that marks the terminus of the south branch of the trolley line, by which we came to this locality. The San Francisco Club. 383 THE PAVILIO?^ OUTLOOK. The next ear not being yet in sight, we have still some time at our disposal to take in the superb view afforded from the ob- servation platl'onn of the pavilion of the precipitous heights, some half mile to our south, that flank the aforementioned pil- lars. In scanning these peaks closely, we discovered among them Ijelow the line of the horizon, one that exhibited the most positive marks of l)eing the crater of an extinct volcano. The blackened walls and the vitrified concave of the surface of the cir- cular opening was as perfect in formation and appearance as that of an abandoned cupola or shaft-furnace, broken away, fortunately, upon its rim upon the side next to the observer, and, therefore, furnished ample evidence in support of our belief that the same was the shaft of an extinct crater. The as- cent to the base of the shaft-like cupola, while at a considerable incline for the supposed distance of a half mile, did not appear to be too precipitous to be climbed by the aid of a stout Alpen- stock, and, therefore, had the hour been earlier in the day, we would have been strongly moved to have made the attempt to scale the same to the verge of the crater's brink. Our reveries, however, of "what might have been" were here cut short by the arrival of the car, and, therefore, in the mellow glow of the western reflections of the departing sun, we hied us back to the Springs, culling these latest flowers for their proper place among the forget-me-nots of these unparalleled mountain parterres. The clans having now all gathered at the rendezvous, and dinner having l)een disposed of, the Cripples and Pike's Peakers luiving all been lined up, the roll-call having disclosed the roster to be complete (none tarrying behind as at Ogden), the subse- (|iient silence of the sections of the Special reveals that all are content to be oblivious of the hour of departure for the political metropolis of the State, and so but few noted the issuance of the order "to pull out." 384 The Pilgrimage of CHAPTER LII. ON TO DENVER. Of the details of our approach to and our reception upon our arrival at the Capital City of Denver, we will call upon our friend and frater, Sir Knight Macklin, to give, as he was so intimately identified with that part of the program of our so- journ within its precincts. "We have now come up across the Divide, at Palmer Lake, to our next stop, Denver, the Queen City of the West, where we are to spend Wednesday. And it has been most profitably and en- joyably spent, one of the red letter days in our traveling experi- ences across the continent. One event in particular, being un- expected, was all the more appreciated. The following is its history. It was the result of a fortunate acquaintance with the mayor, R. W. Speer, on the part of the writer, who wrote him, requesting the privilege of introducing the members of our committee on our arrival at Denver. He replied, by letter, to San Francisco, that he would be pleased to meet our entire party at the City Hall, and further said he might make some changes in our plans for seeing Denver. Accordingly, on our arrival, Wednesday morning, seventy-five of our party went in a body to the City Hall, where we were the recipients of a most cordial and nevert-to-be-forgotten greeting from Mayor Speer and his estimable wife, in the mayor's office. "After a short time of social converse and of introductions^ the mayor led the procession to the street car line, where three special cars had been provided for seeing Denver, one being the private car of the president of the Tramway system, into which the Ladies were invited. The route took us over the busy sections of the city and through the magnificent residence districts. All points of interest were pointed out by the mayor, who was ably assisted by his brother and Messrs. Malone and Clark, while Mrs. Speer looked after the comfort and enjoyment of the Ladies. The San Francisco Clvb. 385 After a delightful tour about the city, we made a run of ten miles across country to Grolden, "the original capital of Nevada," and here, in the shadow of a big brewery, a lunch of sandwiches and pretzels, and artesian water to drink, were served, after which Mr. E. S. Manning, Grand Master of Ceremonies, intro- duced Mr. W. H. Denlinger, of our party, who made a very fitting address of thanks to Mayor Speer for his generous enter- tainment, to which His Honor responded, saying that being him- self a Pennsylvanian, he was glad to be able to contribute some- thing to the enjoyment of his guests. It was undoubtedly a sacrifice of valuable time upon his part to be personally present with us for several hours, but that is the character of the man — never to be too busy as to be unable to be hospitable on a mag- nanimous scale when the occasion arises. He, although young in office, will, we feel assured, prove to be one of the best gov- ernors of the great city of Denver. Even now his political ene- mies rise up to do him honor and not one of them, however bitter his political animosity, has ever dared to impeach the personal integrity or private character of Mr. Speer. "We also greatly enjoyed the lecture on Colorado, and what she offers to settlers, delivered on the car in transit by Mr. Ma- lone, who is not only bright and intelligent, but exceedingly witty and humorous. He jollied us right along for three hours. Here are a few of Mr. Malone's witticisms: "This is the place where people come to find lungs and find them." "Pike's Peak was once a hole in the ground and I helped to fill it up." "You know that Pittsburg is Pennsylvania, and Pennsylvania is Pitts- burg, and further that Pittsburg air is not fit to breathe, even in the infernal regions, let alone in God's country of pure air and bright sunshine, such as we concoct for eastern people in Colorado." Mr. Malone also made some very good hits in his exposition of the declaration that the logical consequence of a high protective tariff supplied the foundation for the tyranny of the trusts, that have, under its fostering wing, been coddled and developed from the condition of so-called "infant industries" into the dimensions of unconscionable giants, whose sole function now appears to be 25 386 The Pilgrimage of to throttle honest competition anl thus perpetuate the regime of the "rich becoming richer, and the poor poorer," by the trans- ferrenee of the monopoly of wealth into the hands of an insig- nificant minority, who flaunt the cry of "prosperity" with as much energy as the criminal utters "stop thief," to divert pur- suit. No one attempted to controvert J\Ir. Malone in his gen- eral arraignment, but when the writer inquired concerning the status of the liquor trust, with which his party Joined hands as heartily as does the dominant party of the day, he was somewhat disconcerted. We thought the "what was sauce for the goose should also be sauce for the gander." Had Mr. Malone been as eloquent in his attacks upon the liquor trust monopoly, under the protection of license, in dictating its policy as the sine qua non upon l)oth the old political parties, we could better have Joined hands with him upon the majority of the issues that he raised. Since Denver, however, has gone to as great lengths, if not greater, than any other city of the land in granting the monopoly of license to the three monumentals evils of the day, we think that "Mr. Malone was somewhat inconsistent, both in the afore- said connection, as well as in boosting the attractions of his Capital City, while ignoring the fact that vice there, as well as elsewhere, flaunts its credentials in the face of the conservators of the best interests of society, and, therefore, of course, much less ofl'ered nothing to abate the protection thereof in its legalized regime. But to return to Mr. Machlin's closing observation in this connection as the general sentiment of all. "One cannot help admiring the optimism of the people of California and Colorado, their buoyancy and hopefulness, their energy and enthusiasm, their confidence in their country and its resources. And, as if the same optimism had seized the members of the Club, he adds that "Our party was delighted with Denver, and, as one Lady put it, Colorado is beautiful, and Denver is ideal." Having, by this means, taken in Denver and its environs by a broad view, the members of the Club, upon landing from the observation cars, resolved themselves into minor coteries to visit points of special interest that had attracted their attention in The San Francisco Club. 387 passing upon the trolley line, or from what they had read of the wonderful development of a city of 175,000 inhabitants of to-day from that of less than fifty-eight pioneers that spent the winter of 1858-59 in their tents and humble cabins at that time erected, as a nucleus of what we now see before us — "the largest, richest and most beautiful city of its age on earth — a sparkling, costly jewel on the bosom of the at one time literal desert." In this connection, therefore, it may be well to quote the words of Governor Steel, at the banquet of the "Pioneers," of which he was a member, at Denver, September 13, 1883, the member- ship of which was composed of the settlers of Colorado previous to 1861. The Governor said : "1 landed in Denver on the 4th of May, 1859. There were nothing but tents and cabins about here. We had fought our way against the current that had turned back, who told us that the country was a ban-en land; that we would starve to death; that Green Kussel had not found anything, and that the reports we had heard were lies. We dared not oppose them, nor declare that we intended to go on to the end, because they were so determined not to allow anyone to sacrifice himself, as they called it, that they were ready to mob and hang us, if we did not yield. We had to steal aAvay from them in order to go on." Knowing, therefore, something of the crude beginnings of the city, the contrast of the same with the exhibit of the present was a matter of constant wonderment to the Club, as they peregri- nated from place to place — now exploring some of the apartment stores of Larimer street, that would do credit to our most popu- lous eastern cities; now stepping into some of the elegant churches, that lift their conspicuous spires toward heaven, and then, turning to view the loftiest dome of them all, the Capitol (and what it overshadows), with its dimensions, in length 295 feet, exclusive of portico or steps; its depth at the centre being some 190 feet, and its height 325 feet, one-third higher than Bunker Hill Monument. The dome is surmounted by a statue of Colorado. Erected at a cost of $1,000,000, one may form some idea of the amount of material required for its construc- tion. Among these items we find the estimate, in round num- 388 The Pilgrimage of bers, "one thousand car loads of cut stone, eleven million brick and four million pounds of iron. The roof is covered with half- inch slate, fastened by brass screws and bedded in concrete. Every window is of plate glass, and the interior is finished in hard wood." Upon this basis of foundation facts, with an inspection of the finished building, we find an ideal structure of wealth and cul- ture, that, in their specific forms, are in most befitting accord with their environs, that are in abundant evidence upon the avenues that embrace the area of some three acres, dominated by this noble structure that compels the notice of the tourist, as well as of the citizen. Leaving the street, therefore, from the side of the main en- trance, we mount the broad steps to the plateau of the site proper, and, ascending another flight therefrom, we are ushered into the rotunda of massive but attractive proportions. A fur- ther ascent by magnificent stairways (or elevators, as preference may be), access is attained to the handsome legislative halls of the Senate and House of Eepresentatives, with their elaborate appointments. Thence, a further ascent is attained into the capacious dome and lantern porticos surmounting the same, that, in their outlook, give one of the most superb views attainable in the State from the structures of men. The one view alone, after exhausting the exquisite buildings and ornamental grounds of the city at our feet, of the mountain range bounding the western horizon, is well worth the time consumed in making the ascent. Therefore, looking westward, the lofty sentinel of Long's Peak, guarding the approach from the right, and Pike's Peak upon the extreme left, with the intermediate peaks of the snowy ranges, afford a continuous view of 150 miles that defies the highest genius of the brush or pencil to delineate, or the most gifted in language to describe. Having, at length, in a measure, explored the building in the time at our disposal, we descend, and take our exit from the side opposite to that of our entrance, and thereby improve our opportunity of traversing the perfectly kept lawns and tree em- bowered pathways of the Capitol Park. Seating ourselves for The San Francisco Club. 389 a while, we seize the surface details as we apprehend the fact that the miracles in wood and stone, and the embellishments of art have here found illustrations that the tourist and connois- seur cannot fail to appreciate and carry away as creations beau- tifully ravishing as dreams, while, at the same time, as realistic as the eternal hills that smile upon them in the offing. TABOE GRAND OPERA HOUSE. Space will not admit of a detailed description of the Tabor Grand Opera House, with its imposing frontage of 325 feet on Curtis and 125 feet on Sixteenth street, a noble specimen of the Queen Anne style of architecture, wi'ought of Golden pressed brick and Manitou white sandstone trimmings, and surmounted by three towers — that of the grand tower, occupying the corner, heing 150 feet high. Its attractive facades, with their ornate stone balconies and windows in twin and triple order, impress the beholder with most favorable considerations and lasting memories. THE HOTELS. Among the hostelries of the city, the Windsor is considered pre-eminent, and was erected at a cost of some $350,000. Oc- cupying a site nearly equal in area to that of the said opera house, and five stories in height, ample space is afforded for its 225 rooms, single or en suite, that, in conjunction with its public accessories, furnish to its management means for the accommo- dation of a large allotment of the approximate half-million of guests that enjoy yearly permanent and transient apartments within the limits of the city. The additional public buildings and utilities of the city are of proportionate finish and amplitude of detail to meet the demands of their respective departments. THE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. Of the educational institutions of the city, a more than pass- ing notice is well worthy of consideration. The High School 390 The Pilgrimage of building, consisting of a centre and two wings, occupies the middle of an entire block, that was presented by the United States Government to the City of Denver for the erection thereon of such a building. A detailed examination of the same, with its complete appliances, sanctions the boast of the educational system that it will "challenge comparison with any high school building in the United States." These facts were so patent that even in the early decades of the city's development the system was made a subject of special examination by the late Dr. John D. Philbrick, for many years the noted superintendent of Boston schools, and one of the most experienced and reliable educators of the country. After a recent visit to Denver, in this con- nection, he reported that "The result may be summed up by say- ing that I found the Denver school system to be admirable in all respects. Although its origin dates back but some two or more decades, its development has been so wisely and energetically con- ducted that it fairly belongs to the front rank of city systems. It is pretty safe to say that the creation of a system of schools upon so large a scale, of such exceptional merits, and in so brief a space of time, is a phenomenon to which the history of educa- tion affords no parallel." While dwelling upon these educational features within easy reach of our central point of observation some of us felt an additional impulse to visit and take in as much as possible from a cursory standpoint the site and appointments of the University, that is located some four or more miles distant from the centre of the city. Taking, therefore, a car at a point near the Capitol, wo passed through the suburbs of the city in a direction opposite to that traversed in our morning tour to Golden, and, therefore, enjoyed an enhanced view of the capabilities of the expansion of the city in that direction. Upon our arrival at the grounds, we saw, in passing, that the main building of the Uni- versity had been completed and utilized, while occupying a con- spicuous site upon the summit of a ridge of considerable eleva- tion above the level of the roadway, and surrounded by an ample stretch of campus grounds. The capabilities of the site for further architectural improvements were very perceptible at The San Francisco Club. 391 sight and showed the wisdom and foresight of the projectors and management of the enterprise by this selection of location ; and, no doubt, in consideration of the immense wealth and liber- ality of the constituency centered in this region, that the Uni- versity will be handsomely endowed from time to time, and thus be enabled to extend the facilities for such a comprehensive course of study in time as will equal that of the older institu- tions of the East.