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Instructions
Russell
MAUDE W. RUSSELL
Inventor Russell System of Garment Cutting
and Author "Complete Sewing Instructions— The Russell Way'
COMPLETE SEWING
INSTRUCTIONS—
THE RUSSELL WAY
The Newest, Simplest, and Most
Perfect Method of Sewing
Ever Offered Women
COPYRIGHTED, 1917, By MAUDE W. RUSSELL
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
All Rights Reserved. Including the Right to
Translate Into Any and All Foreign Languages
PUBLISHED BY
THE RUSSELL COMPANY
912 Grand Avenue
KANSAS CITY, MO.
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COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
J0r^mor&
N THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established
herself as a dressmaker and ladies' tailor and
continued this line of work until 1910. During
these years of experience she realized how essen-
tial it was to the success of her work to have
a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods
of dressmaking then in use.
In 1910 she began to teach dressmaking and then realized
more than ever the necessity of having some system of pattern
cutting which all could readily understand. With the idea of
solving this problem she continued her work and finally brought
all of the knowledge and principles which she had acquired from
her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the
Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting.
After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected
this wonderful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she
offered to the public believing that its use would prove a great
blessing not only to those who are compelled to earn their liveli-
hood by sewing but to every woman who desires to be well dressed
at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money.
The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical
test made by it and we are pleased to say that the approval
which it has received from the public more than justifies the
faith of the inventor in the superiority of her System over any
other method of pattern cutting. And by placing this book
of Complete Sewing Instructions before the people she knows
that every woman can make her own clothes.
THE RUSSELL CO.
Kansas City, Mo., 1917
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
An Open Letter to My Friends
IN ISSUING the new Russell Text Book of Complete Sewing Instruc-
tions, it is with the hope that women everj'where will be enabled to over-
come the many difficulties with which they have been confronted in mak-
ing their own garments.
The art of dressmaking and tailoring embraces such a vast scope of
knowledge that much of it is impracticable for use in the average busy
woman's life. For this reason my time and thought have been given to
the invention and perfecting of a system simple enough yet so prac-
tical that any woman can avail herself of its benefits and easily become
her own designer and d)'essmaker.
The work of making her own dresses, or garments for the other
members of the family, is a real pleasure to a woman when she is certain
of good results, which can always hd obtained with the Russell Sewing
Instructions at her command. A great advantage, too, is to have a Russell
Cutting Device in the home so the daughters, even at the age of ten or
twelve years, can easily be taught to cut perfect fitting patterns and make
theii' own garments.
The instructions have been mads so plain and the Russell Cutting
Device is so easily adjusted to individual measurements that no woman
need experience any trouble whatever in gaining a complete knowledge
of the work.
By the use of the text book THE RUSSELL WAY, the woman in the
country home can have the same advantages as her city sister and can
equip herself to make not only her plain dresses and house gowns,
but she can also select and make garments having the same dash, style
and individuality as the more costly tailored gowns.
Should there be any problem in sewing that you do not under-
stand I shall be glad to receive a personal letter from you stating
your problem, and I will assist you in overcoming such difficulties or
answer any question you may ask relative to the work. It is my de-
sire to render you all the assistance possible to make your work with the
Russell System both a pleasure and a success.
Believe me to be,
Yours very truly,
MAUDE W. RUSSELL,
912 Grand Ave. Kansas City, Mo.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Jntrn&ufltnn
HE caprice of fashion has; long been a favorite subject with
the world; for, women have an inherent desire to be
beautiful, and dress plays a large part in their appear-
ance and attractiveness. French women, as no other in
the world, make their toilette their art, and they, alone,
seem to adhere to individuality in dress, which is the
secret of good dressing. It is not that they are more beautiful — for
they are not — but because they study their own limitations, both in style
and color, suggesting ideas in detail, with the result that they are artis-
tically gowned, beyond the knowledge of the crowd. Their knowledge,
too, of how to wear a gown plays no small part in their artistic appear-
ance.
Paris has, for many years, been the acknowledged fashion center of
the entire world, the hub of the world's fashion wheel, the mirror before
which all art folk and all beauty folk have smiled; but today — Paris has
a rival. American women are recognized as being among the best dressed
women in the world.
America means independence and An:ierican women are coming to the
realization that individual charm of the face and form may be emphasized
and brought out, and many defects in face or figure forgotten, by correct
dressing and the wearing of gowns made on becoming lines.
Good dressmakers are always high-priced and the continual advance
in price of "ready-to-wear" makes even that beyond reach of the many.
Hence, the great need of some method of instruction that will enable
every woman to cut and make her own garments on becoming lines and
to her exact measurements. This need has been fully met by the Russell
method, which, though simple, is complete in every way.
It is now possible for every woman to equip herself to make at little
cost every article of clothing she wears, for the secrets of the dress-
maker's art are hers for the asking. Maude Russell has solved this prob-
lem for all women, thus enabling them to have the opportunity to learn
dressmaking and ladies' tailoring in the home.
Her idea of placing the art of cutting and sewing on a scientific basis
and making it a part of women's education is rapidly growing in favor,
for the reason that it is meeting a long-felt need, never before reached by
any method, or by the use of commercial patterns.
The Maude W. Russell System of Dressmaking and Garment Cut-
ting is the only one in the world today that any woman or young girl
can easily master.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
A World of Opportunity Awaits Any
Woman of Ambition
lyiAUDE W. RUSSELL has evolved a plan
whereby any woman may become proficient
in the art of dressmaking.
Many women do not know how to sew and under
the pressure of the high cost of living ai'e in distress
of mind as to how they may dress well.
Do not try to think it out yourself; Maude W.
Russell has done this for you.
AY7HEN a woman learns to sew well, she has acquired a worthy
accomplishment, and when she has familiarized herself with
all the details contained in this Text Book, she has acquired the
whole art of dressmaking.
In addition to this, when she has learned to cut her own
patterns from any design she may select, and to make any gar-
ment from the simplest to the most elaborate she may choose,
she is then able to do her part to further home economics.
The Maude Russell Device for Cutting meets this demand,
as you can readily operate it within a few hours time.
You will find picture of Russell Device and some of its
advantages on page 92.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Your Benefits
THE pretty woman is the greatest stimulus in the world. Always her
cry of "Give ! Give !" has rung through the earth. Not only the land,
but the sea as well, must give to her their treasures. The beasts of the
fields, the fowls of the air, the insects and even the wayside blossoms
must contribute to her adornment. With all these to help her, woman is
not beautiful, if improperly or unbecomingly gowned.
With the Russell Cutting Device to aid you, and the instructions
given through our text books, you are fitted to dress as well as anyone,
and in clothes .that are made especially for you. With one of these sys-
tems in your own home, where your time is your own, you are not re-
sponsible to anyone for the time usedin studying, nor need it interfere with
your home or social duties. You can make the clothes you need, when you
want them, and be dressed at one-third the cost of ready-to-wear
garments.
American women, who are qualified to lead, refuse to submit to the
tyranny of fashion. They go forward and the crowd follows, while sim-
plicity dominates. Equipped with the Russell Cutting Device and the
knowledge of how to use it, you may become the prettily dressed woman
who stimulates the world, as well as the leader of the crowds who will
follow your example.
The art of dressmaking is an enviable accomplishment, and whether
you use it in the home, or choose it as a vocation, every woman will ad-
mire your cleverness and skill, thus giving you prestige among your
friends.
You will be made to understand that it is not the woman who
has the greatest wealth at her command who is the best dressed, for so
many such women wear clothes which bear no relation whatever to their
individuality. You will learn, also, that no woman is well dressed whose
clothes attract such attention that her personality is overshadowed, for,
clothes should be the frame to the human picture and second in im-
portance.
You will learn that an old face never looks so old as under a
youthful hat, and age is less emphasized by mature looking garments
that are still becoming, because they add a sweet charm that is the co-
quetry of age, while young girls are charming only when arrayed in sim-
ple garments.
You will have learned all this and have also the added knowledge of
how to plan and dress yourself and y our entire family in an individual and
becoming manner that makes personality mean more than clothes.
10 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Important Points on Practical
Dressmaking
First — Do not rush while learning to sew, as you are very apt to
overlook some of the most important things, as well as to become
nervous and impatient. It is natural for you to progress very rapidly
after you have familiarized yourself with the details of dressmaking.
Second — Too much attention cannot be paid to the little points
of charm that give to your clothes an air of distinction; for example:
fancy pockets, bound buttonholes, ties, jabots, fichus, fancy belts, or
even button-trimmings, give smart effects to the ordinary garment.
These are the items that make ready-to-wear expensive, as well as
permit dressmakers to charge such exorbitant prices for the knowl-
edge they claim to possess.
Descriptions on how to make all the above, as well as a great
many more, are contained in this book.
Third — In the making of the first garment, great care should be
given to finishing of inside seams, snaps, hooks and eyes, buttons
and buttonholes. By doing this you will never acquire that slovenly
habit of having to pin your garments, thereby shortening the wear as
well as attractiveness. It is well to keep in mind in the closing of
belts and plackets, where there is any pressure on them, you should al-
ways use hooks and eyes, or hooks and bars, as the strain unfastens
them.
Fourth — A moment's time devoted to the removing of all bastings,
tying and clipping of all threads left by machine stitching,
and the placing of knots where they can not be seen, will place you in
a position where your work can not be criticized even by experts.
Fifth — From the most exquisite gown to the plainest underwear,
should be pressed before considering the garment finished; every
precaution should be used so as not to scorch or spot, and never
place an iron on the right side of the material without first having
tried a sample to see if it affects the finish.
Sixth — A good seamstress always cuts the material instead of
tearing — also just a moment of time given to the pulling of a thread.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 11
for a line to cut on will save you a lot of trouble — as torn goods have
a tendency to ravel and it is impossible to use with the hemmers,
gatherers, and other attachments of your sewing machine.
Seventh — Before placing your pattern (either a Russell or a commer-
cial) see that the material is folded — folded evenly; this is determined
by the selvage, stripes or the grain of the material.
Eighth — Where you have stripes, plaids, or floral designs, too
much care cannot be exercised in the matching of them — in some
cases it will be necessary to change your pattern ; for instance, you
might have to trim one gore of your skirt and add it to the other
gore or you might have to raise one gore at the waist line in order to
start the matching even, but at the same time it is much better to do
this, as the trimming of the gore that extends upward will not affect
the garment nearly so much as the unmatched lines.
Ninth — In the cutting of goods having a nap such as broadcloths,
velvets, etc., they should be cut with nap running the same way; for
example, where your material is narrow and your gores wide, it will
be necessary to cut one at a time — then place the right side of the gore
to the right side of the material, taking care that the weave and nap
are carefully matched.
Tenth — To make sewing a real pleasure as well as a great saver
of time, you should have a small room or a space in a room, as well as
the following equipment : One Maude Russell Cutting Device, which
can be adjusted to any size or form, and cuts to individual measure;
with it you can select any kind of a picture and duplicate it into a jDer-
fect-fitting pattern, thereby giving you clothes that are different
from those worn by your friends, and at a verij siikiU cost ; you will
also need a few of the following — a good sewing machine, a pair
of ten-inch shears, a pair of buttonhole shears, ironing board,
also a sleeve board, a bolt of tape, featherbone, hooks and eyes,
snaps, pins, bodkin needles, sewing thread, and an assortment of
needles. With this outlay you will be enabled to either conduct a
dressmaking business, or do any kind of sewing in your home.
12 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Advice on Needles and Thread
For neat work in sewing it is necesary to have definite ideas as
to the sizes of needles and thread to be used in the different varieties
of sewing.
There are several different kinds of needles, of which the follow-
ing are the most common and most frequently used: sharps, be-
tweens, milHner's, embroidery, and darning or worsted needles.
Sharps are long, slender needles, used for basting, gathering,
darning or any other practical work, while the fine, short needle
is used for hemstitching, hemming, felling and overcasting.
Embroidery needles are different lengths and sizes, have long
eyes, and are used according to the size of thread and material.
Darning needles are similar to embroidery needles, only larger.
Milliner's needles are very long and are only used in the making
of millinery.
Bodkin needles are long and flat with large eyes and are used for
running tape, cords, ribbons, etc.
A good seamstress should always have a bodkin needle handy, as
she will need it frequently while doing fancy or high-class sewing.
If you should buy a package of needles labeled Nos. 6 to 9 — in the
middle you wiU find No. 6, which is used for heavy sewing or for sew-
ing on buttons; next on each side comes No. 7 and No. 8, which are
used for medium coarse work, such as hemming towels or heavy
stitching; on each side at the edge are No. 9, to be used for fine
sewing.
The thread must always correspond with the size of the needle;
for example, when doing fine sewing, hemming and tucking for which
needles Nos. 9 or 10 should be used, the thread should range in num-
ber from 70 to 100, depending upon the fineness of the texture or
material; Needle No. 8, for stitching and overcasting, should carry
thread No. 50 to 70; for working buttonholes in gingham or other
materials of medium weight use needles Nos. 7 and 8 and thread
No. 50.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 13
The length of thread to be used in the beginner's lessons should
be at least 20 inches, which will allow sufficient length to pull
through the edge of material and tie a knot without tangling.
Where a loopstitch, tailor's tack, or long basting stitch, is de-
sired, would advise a thread 30 inches long.
Never cut thread, as that causes a square or blunt end and makes
it difficult to thread a needle.
If you would become proficient in your sewing lessons — always
remember to use your thimble at the beginning. I would also advise
the closed-end thimble for the beginner as it is much easier, though
you will find a great many of the best dressmakers and tailors using
the open-end kind.
The first and simplest stitches are those knovm as
"Basting Stitches"
which are three in number: First, even basting; second, uneven
basting; third, a sort of combination stitch.
If you want to be a good seamstress, you should make a very
careful study of basting; but be careful not to overdo it, as a great
many dressmaking schools and dressmakers do — so many of them try
to carry out the ideas of the old-fashioned tailors who cannot get
away from the lined, boned and tight-fitting garments. Of course,
tailoring demands more basting than dressmaking, but one should be
careful not to overdo it.
The Russell Cutting Device of individual measure eliminates a
great deal of basting, as the garment is cut to fit the form and does
not have to be basted into shape — it also allows all seams, thereby as-
suring you of no alterations, and every seam matches so perfectly,
each and every part of the garment fits together so nicely, that bast-
ing is not necessary. Will add, though, that where basting is neces-
sary one cannot give it too much attention.
Before removing the basting threads be sure that all knots have
been removed, as the drawing of them through the material is liable
to break the thread of the material, thereby causing holes.
14
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Even Basting — Place the two pieces of materials together, one upon
the other, with the edges even, then pin securely so as to prevent
slipping or stretching. This is an in-and out stitch and the stitches
and spaces between are of
even length, as per illus-
tration given below; both
stitches and spaces should
be from one-fourth to one-
half an inch in length —
that is governed accord-
ing to the thickness of
the material.
In basting, always place
the knot on the right side
of the material to be bast-
ed, so that basting thread
may be easily removed
when no longer needed.
To remove the basting thread from the material cut the thread at
short intervals and pull carefully, always removing the knot first.
Uneven Basting — Place
material to be basted to-
gether with edges even,
then pin securely. This
method of basting has
one short stitch and one
long, alternating as sko n-u
i)i the (iccoiii])(n)j/iii(j ilJus-
trution; place a knot on
the right of upper side
of material, and remove
basting when no longer
needed.
Combination Basting- — This basting is used when we wish the
basting to be very se-
cure. Proceed by plac-
ing and pinning the ma-
terials as taught in di-
rection for even and un-
even basting and follow
suggestions 'm the illus-
t nit ion — the short stitches
should be at left angles
to the long stitches; this
thread is to be removed in
the same manner as that
of even and uneven.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
15
Running Stitch — This stitch is just the same as the even-basting
stitch, excei)t as to length. For the running stitch the stitches and
spaces between should be of equal length, depending upon the
fineness of the material upon which you sew. Sizes of needles and
thread should correspond with fineness of materials also.
^Tlic illnst ration (ibovc will give a correct idea of how your work
should look. In the running stitch we use no knot, but instead
fasten the beginning of the seam-to-be, also fastening the thread
in the same way at the end to prevent ripping.
Back Stitching- — This stitch is the one our grandmothers em-
ployed, which so closely resembled machine stitching and was
made in the following manner:
Use no knot, but fasten the thread in the manner suggested for
the running stitch. Take up twice the amount of material on the
needle from the wrong side that you wish your stitch length to be,
draw needle thru and insert in material at the point of one-half the
length of the stitch just taken.
Again take up and repeat as before — see iUustration above. This
stitch is used where it is necessary to have strength and security
in the seam.
16
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Overhanding Stitch — This stitch is used when we wish to fas-
ten edges of material together in a secured seam.
Place edges together, pin and baste. This is an over-and-
over stitch and is made by inserting the needle from the under
side and joassing the thread over the edges of the material to be
sewed. If the thread should be of insufficient length to finish the
seam, fasten thread by allowing it to run along with the edge un-
der the first five or six stitches made by the new thread — see
illustration above.
Overcasting — This is also an over-and-over stitch and is used
to prevent materials from raveling at the edge; it is used on the
edges of seams to be pressed opsn, or may be used on flat seams
where tailoring work is desired; place the knot on the wrong side
and insert the needle from the under side.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
17
In appearance this stitch is much like overhanding, but the
stitches are longer and farthei- apart. Care should be exercised
that stitches be of equal length and distance apart
This is used mostly in finishing inside seams of heavy wool-
ens or crash, and is especially good on materials that show a ten-
dency to ravel.
Blanket Stitch — Like overcasting, it is used for finishing edges
or to prevent raveling. These stitches may be of even length or they
may be a short and a long stitch alternating; this stitch is some-
times called the loopstitch.
Make a knot in the end of the thread to fasten it and insert
the needle the desired length of the stitch from the edge of the ma-
terial; next insert the needle on the right side, holding thread with
the thumb of left hand so that it will form a loop as shoirn in the
ill list nit ion ; to turn a corner, work three stitches from the same place
with the middle one running diagonally from the point where the nee-
dle was inserted over the corner of material.
18
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Buttonholing is related to the foregoing stitch, but gives a
stronger edge than the blanket stitch, even should the stitches be
placed as close together as the buttonhole stitches are.
The Stitcli is shown here on the edge of the canvas, but may be seen below, where
the detail of buttonhole making is explained.
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Fasten the thread at the end by taking a few running stitches,
insert the needle from the under side one-eighth of an inch from the
edge of the material — hold needle in position with the left thumb and
first finger — the thumb on the upper side of material with the nail
against the needle and the finger under the needle; with the right
thumb and first finger take the thread, about two inches from the
eye of the needle, and place under the needle point from right to
left. Pull the needle through. This looping the thread over the
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
19
needle forms a knot. Pull knot tight by pulling needle and thread in
direct line with the stitch. All stitches should be equal length and
thread must be close together. There should be no space and no
over-lapping threads.
Buttonholes — First study the material on which you are mak-
ing the buttonholes, and where it is possible to use an inner lining,
do so, as it improves the appearance very much, and it is firmer to
handle; after the buttonholes have been spaced and cut the exact
size, they should be serged all the way around — this is a short,
overhand stitch, on some real loose material; would suggest stitch-
ing around with a sewing machine as it holds it more firmly and
is less apt to pull. Thia stitching should not exceed one-eighth of
an inch and one-sixteenth is better.
The serging is done with the overhand stitch, which should
be about one-sixteenth of an inch, or if the machine stitching has
been done, the ovei'hand stitch should cover the machine stitch.
20 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
The same rule applies to all materials. The strictly tailored but-
tonhole has the round opening on front; this has to be made with a
buttonhole punch.
After you have learned to cut and serge the buttonhole, you are
now ready to finish. On cotton or linen material use cotton and
linen thread, always usint;- coarse thread, No. 40 being the standard
size. On woolens and silk material, the silk buttonhole twist is used.
First make a knot in your thread — using a thread about thirty
inches in length, as this will complete the buttonhole without hav-
ing to renew thread, which would make a bad looking place in the
buttonhole. Begin at the
rear of the buttonhole by
placing your knot be-
tween the two materials,
and use the regular but-
tonhole stitch as shown.
Great care should be
exercised in having your
stitches the same length
and not to show any ma-
terial between stitches, as
the closer your stitches
are together the neater
your buttonhole. After
buttonholes have been
worked the edges should
be felled together and
pressed; this is the final
finish and should never
be neglected.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
21
Hemming- Muslin — First pull your thread to determine a straight
line and then cut the material, turn over one-fourth of an inch
to take care of raw edge (this may be reduced to one-eighth on
fine material) then turn again the width of hem desired and baste
to position, using even basting stitches.
After the hem has been basted (using the long basting stitch)
pull thread from needle without fastening, so as to make it easy
to remove basting thread ; then stitch on sewing machine.
Hand Hemming- — Determine width of hem, turn and baste, fol-
lowing same rule as for stitching on machine.
Now thread your needle with thread to be used for hem and
insert between the fold of material; this will place the knot where
it cannot be seen from either side of hem — use the hemming stitch,
which looks very much like overhanding, but is made by inserting
the needle in the opposite manner.
Care should be taken to prevent the thread from being too
noticeable on the right side of material. This result may be secured
by inserting the needle under only one or two of the threads of
the material before entering the hem edge.
22
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
French Hemming Linen — Turn the hem, following directions given
for hemming muslins by hand. Turn the hem back on the right side
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of material and crease the edge where turned, using fine stitches;
overhand together the edges thus formed, turn hem out and press
flat.
Roll Hem — This is used in all fine sheer materials, and especially
where laces and insertions are used. Where the roll hem is desired,
you should always have the material cut and properly trimmed be-
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
23
fore starting the work. You should be very careful to roll the
hem as small as possible and very even, using the overhand stitch,
taking as small stitches as you can in order to take care of the
roll h(4n. Where laces and insertions are used, only one stitch is
taken to secure the roll hem at the same time.
Patching
Patching may be done in several ways. We have the hemmed
patch, the darned patch, and patching on flannel.
Hemmed Patch — Cut the worn or torn place square; then cut patch
square, about one inch larger than hole, and match the weave of
the two materials. To form the hem square at each corner, the
cloth must be cut diagonally from the corner to the depth of one-
fourth of an inch, which will give you a sufficient amount to fasten
patch underneath. Where stripes, plaids or floral designs are used,
great care should be used in the matching.
While this patch is used principally for wearing apparel, yet
it is excellent for bed linens, towels, or any cotton or linen gar-
ments that must bear frequent laundering.
In the patching of good or expensive garments the hemming
stitch should always be used, but on coarse, ordinary garments the
running stitch is used, as it is a great saver of time.
24
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Patching- on Flannel may be done by cutting out the worn place and
inserting a hem patch, but this gives rather a heavy edge to the
patch ; so it is better to leave the patch flat and sew around both the
inside and the outside with a catch stitch which is described on jiage
45 ; this stitch is used also for finishing seams in flannel.
The Darn Patch is used on table linens, woolen materials and the
like. It is best in this style of patching to use a thread of the
same kind as material, if possible. Any worn place is, as a rule,
more easily mended by darning than in any other way and is also
less noticeable.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
25
Cut out a patch of sufficient size, place it and baste securely
under worn spot, weave the thread back and forth, using the run-
ning stitch, following the weave each way. In this manner the
loose worn ends are fastened down — then press well.
Be careful to not draw the thread too tight, as that gives the
entire patch a drawn look.
Darning Stockings and Underwear. — Either baste the material to a
piece of cardboard, or hold securely over some other smooth sur-
face. As the garment or stocking is usually worn rather thin
around the hole, it is necessary to darn it well back from the open-
ing to prevent the strain of new threads tearing a new hole.
To darn, use the running stitch and cover as much space as
seems worn, bringing the thread under and over, alternating each
time, as shown in illustrafioii.
These new threads must not be drawn tight, but must be left
loose enough to allow for shrinkage when laundered.
26
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Hemstitching— This is a very pretty finish and
may be used on any materials from the finest made
to the heaviest of linens or flannels.
First decide upon the width of hem desired,
and pull as many threads as required to make the
width you wish the hemstitched open work to be —
the space between the edge of the material and the
pulled threads should be twice the width of the
finished hem.
Turn the hem to the line formed by pulling the
threads and baste; work on the side upon which
the hem is turned; fasten the thread by taking a
few running stitches from the left to right on the
inside of hem turned; hold work over first finger,
securing it between thumb and middle finger of the
left hand ; holding the needle with point away from
you, insert under the number of threads you desire
(this may range from two to six, depending upon
the fineness of the work wished) and pull through;
take a short hemming stitch at the right of this
grou]) which serves to fasten the hem down. Sec
ill list nifioii (ihoi'C.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 27
Gathering — The thread for gathering should be
double, and the knot at the end should be of suffi-
cient size to prevent it from slipping through— you
may use an even running or an uneven running
stitch. The length of stitches should be governed
according to the thickness of the material — but in
all cases the finer your stitches the nicer and more
even your gathers will be.
Several stitches should be taken on the needle
before it is pulled through the goods; when the
material has been gathered to the required length
a knot should be placed in the end of the thread
after the needle has been removed ; the gathers may
then be drawn to the length desired and secured so
by wrapping the thread around an inserted pin —
see I
Jhist ration nhovc.
Gathers may be more evenly distributed and
more easily held in proper form if two or three
gathering threads are used, ranging
eighth to one-fourth inch apart.
from one-
In gathering ruffles on any straight material
would suggest that you use the gather attachment
on machine, as it can be easily adjusted and spaced
to the amount of fullness desired and is a great
saver of time.
28
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Sewing on Lace — Lace is commonly sewed to the edge of the ma-
terial. The lace should be placed with the right side facing the
right side of the goods, with the edges even.
The stitch used is overhanding. The needle should catch just
the edge of the lace and the edge of the material and the stitches
should be close together.
When sewing on lace that is not gathered the lace should
be held a little full. This may be done by pushing it slightly with
the thumb of the left hand.
If the lace is to be gathered, it may be done by pulling the
heavy thread at the top. Sew on as directed, using a fine, short
needle with fine thread.
Insertions may be put in by overhanding to the rolled or hemmed
edges of the material.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 29
Insertions may be put in by using the overhand stitch. The nicest
way is to roll the hem in as small a roll as is possible according to
the material you are using (per ilhistrafioti, juific 22); in this way
the one overhand stitch takes care of the insertion and roll.
You should be very careful to hold the insertion a little full
when putting on, as lace shrinks more than material, otherwise it
will appear drawn when washed.
In the use of insertion on plain materials or ruffles, where
speed is desired, would suggest the use of the hemming attachment
on machine; then hold insertion a little full and stitch by machine
or overhand as preferred.
An easier and more rapid way of putting in insertion is to place
the right side of the insertion on the right side of the material and
baste the insertion to place, carefully basting both edges. Stitch
on the sewing machine, being careful to keep about one-sixteenth
of an inch in from the edge of the insertion. Now turn to the wrong
30 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
side and cut the material, keeping the line straight half way between
stitchings. Turn back and crease. Stitch again with the machine,
this time on exact edge of insertion. Trim close to stitching. This
^^^B -:" "'~:''4<^^^[^^^H
leaves the raw edge of the material on the wrong side, but gives no
inconvenience as the double stitching prevents pulling out.
This method is especially good for muslin and similar mate-
rials.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY
31
Finishing: Seams — It is necessary that all seam
edges should be evenly basted before stitching, as
this precludes any possibility of stretching one edge
upon the other. Seams may be finished either by
hemming, binding, overcasting, notching, felling
or French seaming.
In all silks and satins, would advise using the
process called hemming, cy.s- jxr iJhistntfiou (thovc:
after seams have been basted and stitched and bast-
hig thread removed, then press the seam open, and
turn under each of the seam edges about one-
fourth of an inch. Fasten with running stitches,
exercising care to prevent stretching or pulling of
the edges; would advise the use of silk thread in
this case.
Where one is familiar with the sewing machine
this can be stitched down very nicely and will
save a great deal of time.
32
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Finished Seams With Binding — This is the only
satisfactory way of finishing seams that ravel.
On linen or cotton goods would advise the regular
bias binding that may be purchased in all depart-
ment stores, but on fine materials such as vel-
vets, serges, etc., you may use any of the follow-
ing materials: nets, cliiffous, i-liiua silks, nrfjaud// or
iiulici Illicit.
By using these you will be able to match any
color or shade. By referring to page 49 you will
see how to cut these materials on the true bias before
using.
These bias strips should be cut from three-quar-
ters to one inch in width — that is determined by the
thickness of material you are using; then overhand
the strips together or stitch them in a flat seam on
the machine — being very careful to always place the
right side of the bias material to the right side of
material of seam ; then stitch one-fourth of an inch,
or width of presser foot, and turn bias binding over
this seam, allowing the raw edges of bias to extend
flat underneath; this is fastened down either by
a running stitch, by hand or machine stitching.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
33
Notching the Seams — This method is sometimes used in heavy ma-
terials and those materials so closely woven that there is little dan-
ger of raveling edges — broadcloth especially is finished in this man-
ner.
After basting and stitching, and basting threads have been re-
moved, hold seam edges together between thumb and finger of left
hand and cut V-shape notches as slwnni in the illustration; unless
you are familiar with this work, would suggest that you try a sam-
ple before attempting to notch the garment, taking great care to not
cut too deep, at the same time not using so much space but that one
V will extend to the other, leaving a sharp point.
Where any distance is left between it shows a blunt end, and
poor workmanship — small sharp shears are very essential in this
work.
34
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Overcasting- Seams — Press the seam open and trim
the edges until they are free from raveling. It is
better to alv^ays start from the bottom of a skirt
and overcast toward the w^aist line, as this follows
the weave of the material, keeping the ends of all
materials running downward, making it much easier
to do.
Where you have sleeves and inside waist seams
you should also overcast in the same manner, with
spaces between stitches of one-fourth inch, and
just deep enough to take care of edges; be careful
not to draw your stitches tight enough to pull the
edge of the seam.
This method of finishing never causes a streak
or worn appearance on the right side of the gar-
ment and in washing and pressing does not leave
a slick or shiny appearance.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY 35
Felled Seams — Baste and
sew edges together, using
standard seam which is
three-eighths of an inch.
Cut off the seam edge on
the left to one-eighth of
an inch, turn the other or
right edge under, as for
hemming and press flat,
then use the running
stitch or machine stitch-
ing, the latter being the
one most frequently used
— felled seams are used
principally in underwear,
men's shirts, shirtwaists,
etc.
Reinforced Seams —
Sometimes where strong
seams are needed it is
necessary to reinforce the
seam by sewing a straight
piece of the material in
with the seam, this seam
should be three-fourths of
an inch wide; cut off the
edges as directed above
and turn in the edge of
the added piece as for
hemming; baste or press
flat and stitch, by hand or
machine.
,- ...^
i
f
t
1
36 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
On light weight materials,
the edges may be turned under
as per Uhistnttio)} ; but on heavy
materials, such as linens, and
woolens the seams should be
left raw, and then finished by
overcasting. In coats or jack-
ets, where lining is to be used
it is not necessary to finish
them at all.
Tailored Seams — These are made
by stitching the seams and press-
ing them flat, per ill list rat ion.
Then on the right side of the
material stitch any width de-
sired, although one-fourth inch is
standard and is usually the best.
This seam applies only to tai-
lored coats and skirts.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 37
Tailor Tacking, or Loop-Stitching, as it is sometimes called, is used
in making slot seams, pleats, or inside marking of any fancy braid-
ing or trimming, set-in pocket, etc.
Placing your two corresponding pieces together, is the only
accurate way of getting both sides or pieces alike. Where markings
inside of seams are necessary, this stitch should be used, as it
avoids mistakes which are often made by the use of crayon or
tracing wheel.
Should you be making a pleated skirt, for instance, or one
where pleats or yoke is set in, place the two corresponding pieces
together with right sides facing, then place paper pattern on and
loop stitch through pattern and material at the same time. You
will thus find it very easy to do accurate work and obtain pleasing
results.
This stitch is made by using coarse thread (about No. 40),
double your thread, using long strands. It is best not to tie a knot
when loop-stitching, as you always leave a loose end extending.
Now commence by taking the first stitch about one-quarter of
an inch and the next one from one to two inches, according to the
weight of the material, as the heavier the material the longer the
stitch; repeat until you have gone the length desired. Now clip
in the center of the long stitches. When goods are pulled apart the
threads will remain in each piece of material for marking.
38 COMPLETE SEWING INSTKUCTIONt^THE RUSSELL WAY
Slot Seam— This is a seam that never goes out of style, because it
is one that is always practical and attractive. It can be used in
dresses, coats, skirts, etc., where slot seams are used on skirts; it
enables you to make an invisible placket as well as the opening of a
waist, either front or back; this is exceptionally good for some
styles.
This seam is made by basting your seams, using the small even
basting stitch. The half -inch seam is plenty wide; the standard
three-eighth seam is good, unless you want wide slots. After this
has been basted and fitted, press seam open, then cut straight piece
of material, as wide as your seam is after being pressed open, and
baste it flat, using the long basting stitch on both edges, as per illns-
frafioii.
Now press again and stitch from the right side the desired
width, as per illiisf ration on foUoiviug jxitic; should you be stitching
wider than the presser foot of the machine, would advise the use of
the quilter attachment.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
39
You will find on some materials it is very necessary to stitch
downward on each side; in doing this it is impossible to use the
quilter on both sides, as it throws the stitching opposite, but on stitch-
ing the right hand side of your seam, the quickest and most accurate
way to accomplish this is to commence at the bottom of the skirt,
using your quilter or presser foot to gauge, but remove thread from
the machine needle ; run full length of the seam. This makes a mark
to stitch on.
Now remove your quilter and thread your machine needle, and
you can stitch the downward seam without any trouble; when the
bastings are removed, that leaves an opening exposing the under-
neath strip slightly.
A great many times this strip is of a different color which
makes a very pretty finish.
Seams may be finished by binding or overcasting.
40 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
French Seams — Place the mate-
rials with the wrong sides to-
gether, and baste; this will make
the seam on the ri</]it side of
the goods. Stitch on machine
and remove bastings — then trim
seam to one-eighth of an inch —
and stitch as sliowii in illKstni-
tion on right; your seam should
never exceed one-fourth of an
inch, and in fine materials can
be much smaller.
A great many garments are
ruined by sewing too large a
seam and though it does not af-
fect the fit, large seams are
not only bunglesome but show
poor workmanship.
This is an excellent seam
finish for any thin sheer ma-
terial, as French muslins, lawns,
and organdies.
Where basting is necessary,
always remove your basting threads before trimming your seams
for second stitching; to remove the bastings afterwards causes
goods to fray and makes a rough finish.
French Knots — Insert needle
from wrong side, thus leaving
the knot on the under side of
work; hold the thread between
the thumb and first finger of
the left hand and wrap around
the needle three or four times,
according to size of knot desired,
holding the needle against the
material where the thread comes
through with the right hand;
hold the thread firmly with the
left hand and insert needle down
through the material where it was brought up, tighten knot by pull-
ing the thread on the wrong side, bring needle through where next
knot is to be made and proceed.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 41
Chain Stitch — This is a very simple embroidery stitch used in out-
lining and trimming.
Insert needle from under side of material, leaving the knot
on the wrong side of material. Hold the thread down with the
left thumb to form a loop. Insert needle from right side at the
point where it came through and take a stitch toward you, bring-
ing the needle through. Release hold on loop and draw to posi-
tion. Repeat.
Cross Stitch — This stitch
is used to work out de-
signs on canvas and is fre-
quently used as trimming
for aprons, house dresses
and the like that are made
of checkered material.
It may be done with an
over-and-over stitch much
like overcasting, and com-
ing back cross all the first
stitches made, or may be done separately a cross at a time as i)i ilJiis-
t ration.
42 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Outline Stitch
—This stitch
may be made in
any one of the
three illustra-
ted ways. The
thread should
have no knot
on the end, but
should be fas-
tened by taking
three or four
running stitch-
es in the oppo-
s i t e direction
in which the
outline is
worked.
These are also known as stemming stitches in embroidery.
Feather Stitching is used for trimming and finishing and may
have any number of feather edges or branches. This is occasion-
ally called briar stitch.
Insert needle
from wrong
side to place
the knot. Hold
thread to po-
sition with
thumb of left
hand and take
a stitch, allow-
ing needle to
come over loop.
Repeat for the
desired number
of "briars" and
transfer thread
to the left to
make stem.
Repeat stitch-
es, t r a n s f e r
thread to right.
etc.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 43
Sewing on Buttons — One reason why buttons come off quickly is that
as a usual thing they are sewed too closely to the garment, and when
the buttonhole is slipped over them they are strained until the thread
becomes worn. The thread should be double and the knot should be
placed under the button on the right side of the material.
If the button has four openings for thread, the thread should
be crossed on the under side and not on the button. Many but-
tons have grooves showing where thread should go.
Bring the needle up through the hole in the button and down
through the one opposite not diagonal; place a pin across the button
under the thread and each time in bringing the thread through
sew over the pin. When sewed securely, bring thread to right side
of garment under the button and wrap around the thread that
holds the button to place several times. Fasten end by sewing back
and forth through the stem thus formed.
f
Hooks and eyes may be sewed on with an over-and-over stitch,
but are held more securely if sewed on as those shoini in the iJJus-
frafiou (ihoi-c. This is the common buttonhole stitch or loop-stitch and
44 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSEtL WAY
it gives a good finish and insures strength. Hooks and eyes as
well as buttons should be sewed with cotton or linen thread when
possible.
Sometimes it is necessary to use eyelets made of thread in-
stead of the ordinary "eye." Make them by sewing back and
forth over a space of one-fourth of an inch long. This produces
a loop and should have four or five threads. These threads should
now be covered with loop or buttonhole stitches, working from the
right side to the left. Crowd these stitches close together and fas-
ten thread securely on the wrong side of material when finished.
Middy Blouses, and similar garments wherein a lacing and cord is
used, must have eyelets worked; run a thread in a circle the size the
eyelet must be and open to this size with a stiletto or orangewood
stick. To give added strength to the eyelet the edge may be button-
holed.
If the eyelet is to be very large, it is well to run in the outline
thread and to slash with a shaip knife, or scissors, across the diam-
eter of the circle both ways, forming four right angles at center.
Open with stiletto, turning corners back on the wrong or under side
of the work. Proceed as suggested above.
Tape to be used for hangers should be sewed on in the following man-
ner: Turn under ends of tape one-half inch, place flat on material
and pin to position; beginning at the side at the point where the
turn-under ends, sew around to same point, using hemming stitch;
sew across tape to the beginning point, using back stitching.
Tape may be sewed to the edge of towels and the like. {See
illiistnitiou oil jxif/e 43.) Cut tape required length, turn tape under
one-fourth inch at each end. Place ends even, one on each side of
the towel, and sew with hemming stitch.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 45
Blind Stitching is used when it is necessary to put on facings, ar-
range plackets, etc., and it is undesirable that the stitches show on
either side. This stitch is similar to the stitch used in hemming
cottons and muslins, but stitches are neither so large nor so close
together.
Insert the needle between the turn-under and the facing proper.
Pull through and take a hemming stitch, but do not let the needle
penetrate to the right side of the material; to prevent this, take up
only a part of the woven thread. Again insert the needle be-
tween turn-over and facing and proceed as shown in illustration.
This stitch is used in silks, satins, light and heavy weight woolens
and velvets. - ■ - s , -
Catch Stitch — This stitch is used in seam finishings on flannel and is
used to stay linings, etc. The work is done from left to right, or
away from you. The
stitches are taken as one
running stitch, one stitch
at a time. The two rows
may bo from one-fourth
to one-half inch apart.
Fasten the thread, then
insert needle through the
material, with the point
toward you. Take up
one-eighth of an inch, pull
needle through, cross to
left and take a stitch one-
eighth of an inch Lms;,
cross to the right and proceed. The stitches should be correctly
spaced so that your work has an even appearance. See illustration.
46 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Belts, Pockets and Fancy Trimmings
In the making of
the above there are
three things of great
importance which
you should pay spe-
cial attention to, if
you wish to secure
satisfactory results :
First — After deciding
on the size and shape,
they must be cut on
the right weave of
the material. For in-
stance, if they are to
be on the bias, they
must be on the true
bias, and if there
should be two or more
of any one of the
above, they should be
cut just alike and
each piece should be
cut on the same
weave.
Second — After being carefully basted and stitched, the corners must
be cut away by taking a square nick out of the corner, as jxr Hhis-
t nit ion; this will give you a perfect point (or turn) and a nice flat
edge. Where you are making round collars, ripples, peplums, or
fancy set-on pieces, you should take a V-shape notch, an j)cr illus-
fnifioji; in this case when the goods are turned over the seam fits
together and makes a flat, smooth edge for stitching, or in cases
where machine stitchings are not desired it prevents the edge from
being heavy.
Third — After this has all been done and bastings carefully removed,
any of the above named pieces should be turned and basted very
carefully on the edge of right side of material, and pressed well, as
this all demands careful and good pressing. If you will pay close
attention to this you will avoid that puckered, drawn look that you
often see on ready-to wear, cheap dressmaking and tailoring. These
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 47
same rules apply to coat lapels and collars, as well as all corners on
the lower edges of coats or jackets, and cuffs of any designs.
On any seam that has to be turned and left inside you will find
that pressing wide open before turning will aid you greatly in get-
ting a smooth edge, while the material will be much easier to stitch
or press. It is a great saving of time to make a small roll or pad
and keep for this purpose.
Tucks may be put in with fine hand sewing or may
be made with the tucker attachment on the sew-
ing machine. If they are run in by hand the run-
ning stitch, a very fine one, is used. The tucks
must be marked to insure the spaces between be-
ing even.
48 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Embroidery Insertion may be put on in the different ways, as fol-
lows: Where it has the galloon or hemstitched edge as per illustra-
tion, would suggest joining to any material with the overhand stitch;
all insertions containing the hemstitched edge usually have some sur-
plus materials on outer sides. This you trim away entirely before
overhanding.
Another way is to trim the surplus
material on tlie outer sides even and
use the French seam, of course revers-
ing the seam, placing it on the right
side of the material. This forms a tuck,
then by placing one or more tucks with
this, to form a cluster makes a very
pretty finish.
These tucks are made according to
the fineness of your material for under-
wear, where using coarse material you
can fill the insertion in by using the
surplus material on the outer edges.
For lace insertions always use the
roll hem and whip by hand or make a
very fine hem by sewing machine, using
the small hemmer, then put on by hand
or machine stitching.
For coarse lace insertions use pre-
vious illustration.
Piping, which is used extensively in the trimming of children's
dresses, house dresses and aprons, is made by cutting the mate-
rial on the true bias; fold the bias strip with edges together and
insert between the facings and the garment where the trimming
is to be.
The piped edge should be from one-sixteenth to one-eighth
of an inch wide. Sometimes a cord is drawn in the piping; this
is called a cord piping and the piping should be wide enough to
admit the size cord desired.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 49
Bias Facings are cut on the bias or
diagonal of the material. A true bias
is a true diagonal and may be found
in any material by turning the straight
cross- wise thread parallel with the
straight length-wise thread of the ma-
terial ; cut on the fold. The facing may
be cut any width desired.
50 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Facings may be either shaped or bias. Shaped facings are cut as
the garment to be faced is, though they are narrow.
When an edge, curved as the one in the illustration, is to be
faced, it is well to use a shaped facing.
The seam nmst be slashed, as per illustration above, to admit of
the spreading of the edge. Necks, sleeves and all curved edges should
be treated in this manner.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 51
The Making of Collars, etc.
Round, square
or V-shaped neck
should have fitted
facings, as well as
all the different
styles of collars and
revers, as per illuti-
trations.
When finishing any shape of necks that require fitted facings,
as where yokes are to be set in or put on, it is always better to leave
under-arm seams open until this has all been completed. You will not
only find this easier to do, but a great time saver.
52 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
On square or
V-shaped fitted fac-
ings, the corners
should be cut diag-
onally about one-
fourth of an inch,
(i.s per iUustration
on Square ('olJar.
This allows your
facing to turn un-
der without that
draw n, puckered
look that is often seen in poorly made garments
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 53
Corset Cover — To cut, lay pattern with center back on a length-
wise fold of the material; lay front with center on the straight
edge of the material, allow for hem; cut on exact pattern line,
when using a Russell pattern, as seam allowance has been made.
But when using a commercial pattern, strict attention must be
given to seams. Hem the fronts, sew shoulder and under-arm seam
in French seam, face or bind arm and nock and trim as desired.
54 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
The bottom may be hemmed and a narrow elastic inserted to
hold it to position, or the desired edge may be gathered into a
band.
Where fullness is desired in the front of corset cover: after
you have hemmed the fronts and placed the two edges together
ready for cutting, set your pattern back 21/2 inches on material;
this allows five inches in all, but will give a good lap and the ex-
act amount of fullness.
Where band is desired, cut a length-wise strip two inches
longer than the waist measure, and two inches wide, turn under
one-half inch at each end, sew on the corset cover with the right
side of the band to the wrong side of the garment, turn the re-
maining edge under one-fourth inch, turn the band down as you
would a hem on the right side of the garment; baste and stitch,
or put down by hand as desired.
In the making of fancy corset covers, stitching lace or embroid-
ery beading around the lower edge and drawing in to fit waist
line with ribbon is especially pretty, and very easily done.
Underwear of all kinds, including teddy-bears, Princess slips, com-
bination suits, petticoats, etc., should be finished with French seams,
the neck and arm-eyes should be faced or bound and trimmed
with lace or embroidery in any desired manner. Materials used may
be crepe de chines, combination silks and linen, linen or fine cot-
ton. Instructions for cutting these will be found in the Maude
Russell Text-Book on Garment Cutting.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 55
Drop Shoulder Waist — This style of waist is very popular at this
time. The pattern is shown in illustration No. 1, page 25, of
Maude Russell Text-Book on Cutting, and the design may be made
of any kind of material.
If the opening is to be made in
the front, the front is laid on the
straight edge of the material;
fold the goods so that both fronts
may be cut at once.
Mark the material with all the
markings that appear in the
Maude Russell pattern. Also,
when using a commercial pat-
tern of any kind, as this will aid
you greatly in putting same to-
gether. The back should be laid
with the center back on a length-
wise fold of the goods. Always
pin the pattern to the material
to prevent slipping. Mark the
back of material to correspond
with the markings on the pat-
tern.
For light weight materials
French seams should be used.
Run a gathering thread in each
of the fronts at the shoulder
seam line between markings.
This fullness should not be
nearer than one and one-half
inches to the arm-eye. If the
fullness is allowed too close to
the arm-eye the waist has a
tendency to drag or fall over the
shoulder, making it uncomfort-
able and unsightly.
Draw the thread to give the
seam the required length and
baste the front to the back at
shoulder point with the wrong
side of the material together.
Turn the hem down the front the
width allowed for, and baste in
the proper place. If the pattern
has been cut to the proper meas-
urements and the seams taken the proper width, there will be no ques-
tion as to fit.
56 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
The waist may be cut long enough to allow for a hem at the
bottom or cut off for band; in the former case turn, baste and
stitch and insert a narrow rubber to keep waist to position.
If a band is used, run a strong gathering thread one-fourth of
an inch from the bottom of the waist, cut a length-wise strip two
inches in width, turn under one-half inch at each end and baste
to lower edge of waist, with the ends even with the front hemmed
edge; adjust gathers properly, pin at intervals, baste and stitch;
turn over edge of strip one-fourth of an inch, turn up on seam just
sewed, as for hem; pin, baste and stitch to position. This forms
a band three-fourths of an inch in width, with a lap at the front
of one inch.
Any becoming style of collar may be used with this waist.
Just one-half the collar pattern is used. Lay the center back on
lengthwise fold of the matei'ial The neck line of the collar must
correspond with the neck line of the waist. The collar may have
a picot outer edge, or may be bound or faced as you desire.
Pin the collar with center back to center back of waist at
neck Hue. Do not stretch the collar, as it fits over the waist and
should be held loosely. Pin to position and baste.
Cut a true bias facing the length required and baste it in
with the collar seam. This facing should be one inch in width,
but can be narrower, according to the material used.
Clip or slash the seam as directed for putting on a shaped facing,
turn over the edge of bias strip and turn down on waist, basting flat
as for hem. Stitch or put down by hand as desired — the latter being
the better.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 57
Butterfly Waist — Pattern directions on page 31 of the Russell Text-
Book on Cutting. But this same rule applies to any commercial pat-
tern and will aid you greatly in joining seams properly. If front clos-
ing is desired, lay the pattern on the material with the center back
on a lengthwise fold — allowance must be made for hem at front clos-
ing; pin front and back together, folding material so that two meets
two, three meets three and one meets one. Any fullness found in
sleeve at back should be evenly adjusted, as it prevents the sleeve
from straining. Baste and stitch.
^^
Z
> o
^^.^
kj
\
<fc
^~^,.^_^
^
^^^^-^
-^ Q
In sheer materials the French seam should be used. Use any
collar you may wish. Sleeve may have extra fullness taken up in
a dart, as shown in flic ilhisl ration, or gathered into a cuff.
Collars may be made in any plain or fancy design. Care must
be taken that the neck of waist and neck of collar shall correspond
in size and shaping. The outer edge of the collar may be picoted,
faced, bound or trimmed with braiding or lace edging.
This pattern is used as the foundation for waists with the
large arm-eyes, for raglan lines, and in many instances for fancy
blouses of different stvles. It is finished around waist same as
drop-shoulder waist. The finishing of all waists is the same.
58 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Plain Two-Piece Sleeve— Measure up from hand the number of
inches necessary to locate the elbow point, on the outside seam of
under-arm section; see iUiistration.
Place a mark two inches above and one two inches below the
elbow point, pin upper and lower sleeve sections together for in-
side seam, beginning at the top; pin outside seam edges together,
beginning at the top and pinning down to first mark above elbow
point, then commence at the hand or lower part of the sleeve, and
pin upward to first mark; that will give you a distance of four
inches, which provides for the entire curve of the elbow. On woolen
materials this should be taken out by shrinking (shrinking is done
by dampening fullness or gathers, and placing a heavy cloth over
same and using a hot iron parallel to gathers) the same method be-
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 59
ing used in shaping top of sleeve for arm-eye; in silks or wash
materials, where two-piece sleeves are desired, the fullness is taken,
care of by very fine gathers for this same distance. This space
is properly regulated by the Maude Russell System, but this same
rule applies to commercial patterns.
Putting in Sleeves — One of the most important things found in
dressmaking and tailoring is making of sleeves and properly
adjusting same. Since having previously learned all the details in
the making of sleeves, it is now necessary to know how to put them
in properly.
The following rule applies to all sizes and styles:
Place the front seam of sleeve to the proper place of arm-eye
in front of waist; this is found in all sizes by commencing at the
under-arm seam and extending forward to the first turn upward.
Now place your front seam of sleeve, then pin upward within four
inches of shoulder seam; now pin backward all the way around
within two inches of the shoulder seam at the back of the waist;
hold all gathers or fullness between these two markings — always
keeping in mind that the fullness in front of shoulder seam should
be twice as much as in back. On extremely large arm-eyes the
gathers or fullness may be placed a greater distance than specified
to give comfort at arm-eyes.
60 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Making- of Girdles— A skirt cut by the Russell System will always fit
perfectly at the waist and hips, but to retain its shape depends en-
tirely upon the way in which you finish and mount same.
No. 2
No. 1
A properly made girdle is a great aid in both
the fit and comfort of your skirt, and one made
in the following manner will never fail to give
entire satisfaction. For wool or silk, take linen
crash or canvas; for any colored material, would
suggest the linen color; in delicate colors or white
would suggest white; for wash materials take
Indian-head muslin or plain linen, (would advise
either white or linen color in this case, as it will
not fade in washing).
Use one-third or one-half yard, according to
width, for large waists; you will have to piece it
once, but by stitching the selvages together, as
it will naturally come in cutting true bias, it
does not affect the wear or appearance.
Now fold it on the true bias, r^s• pn- iIJi(stra-
fioii for cutting true bias, and cut about two
inches larger than your natural waist around,
and about four inches in width — for extremely
high waist lines you may cut wider; now crease
this through the center and stitch a piece of
straight tape, or if you should not have handy the
straight tape you may use a straight piece of
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RITSSELL WAY 61
muslin one inch wide, turned
under on both edges; this se-
cures your waist line from
stretching ; take f eatherbone
and cut it in the same lengths
your girdle is in width, stitch
it five inches apart, full length
of girdle; the better way is to
start at center of girdle, ex-
tending within five or six
inches of the end {sec ilhts-
trafion No. 1), then place the
girdle around your waist, and
pin tight; that shapes it and
fits it; mark where your pins
are placed and cut off any
surplus goods, now stitch
featherbone to each edge of
this after you have turned
the edges back covering raw
seams with featherbone at
openings. {Sec illiisfrdfioii Xo.
2.)
You will find on all feather-
bone that there is a soft edge
allowed for the stitching
down with the machine; take
bias tape or thin material cut
on a true bias and bind both
edges, exercising great care
not to draw the edges, as that
will make it tight; sew hooks
and round eyes and allow them
to extend out the distance of
the eye, which makes it very
easy to hook. (»SV<" iJhist ration
Xo. 3.)
^":•■/•^^'
\o. :5
No. 4
62 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELI- WAY
Mounting Skirts — To mount the skirt, should you not want a belt, turn
the top of skirt under and put it down by hand ; where heading is de-
sired make it any width that is becoming, according to prevailing style,
and stitch to top of girdle, then put skirt down by hand, covering
seam where heading has been stitched.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 63
Where belt is to be used in any width, first stitch skirt to
girdle with raw seam, have the belt completely finished and pressed,
baste to the girdle, covering the seam on right side, then put it down
by hand, using the feather-stitch on wrong side and blind stitch on the
right side; see illustrations below.
r
IH
r
■
■
^^
^
/
,
1
i
s
r
1
.__
"" - ^. — J
i
;
1
For fancy gowns you may usa silk or ribbon, by taking small
darts at waist line and stitching featherbone over them. This
gives a very pretty inside finish but should not be as tight as the
bias-fitted girdles.
Use this girdle for all one-piece dresses, and your dress will
wear much better and have the appearance of first-class workman-
ship. {See ilh(stnilio)i on jhujc 64.)
64 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
When a dress has been cut by the Russell System and mounted
on the Russell girdle, it will always hold the shape and lines when
either sitting or standing. Another great advantage is, the skirt
will not wrinkle when sitting or form wrinkles like a skirt cut
to standard measure or by commercial patterns. Sec ilhiHtration.
above.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 65
One-Piece Dresses, By using the Russell Girdle in any one-piece
dress, from a plain house dress to the most exquisite gown, you will
find three great advantages:
1st. It gives more comfort to the wearer, as well as prevents
slipping and pulling out of shape, especially at the arm-eyes and
under the arms, where one-piece dresses have a tendency to always
pull out of shape.
2nd. The girdle protects all the strain on the dress regardless
of the weight of material, thereby giving twice the service usually
obtained in dresses not fitted with girdles or ready-to-wear.
3rd. It gives a beautiful waist line finish — the girdle takes care
of all raw seams on the wrong side of the dress, and by using any of
the following outside finishing: belts, plain, either wide or narrow,
crushed or pleated, beaded or draped girdle effects, you will have a
pretty and substantial finish on the right side. This will aid espe-
cially the stout figures in obtaining a neat and stylish waist line.
Making Skirts — The most important thing in
skirt making is to have good lines and in order to
get these, the goods must be cut on the right
grain, or "on the right weave" as some would say.
You can always feel that you are right and
that you will get good lines if you use the Russell
Cutting Device, as it cuts to ])erfect lines and elimi-
nates the worry of hanging the skirt, and watching
the weaves. It puts every style to your individual
measurement, marking the exact length for hem as
well as allowing all seams; but in using commercial
patterns great care must be exercised as they are cut
to standard measurements and it depends entirely
upon your knowledge of placing them on the ma-
terial as to what the results will be.
In sewing up skirts be very careful to get the
correct gores together. This can be done by num-
bering them as you cut, being sure to place corre-
sponding numbers before basting or stitching. By
following instructions on pages 66 and 67 you will
eliminate all difficulty in getting seams together
properly. Baste the edges, taking care neither to
stretch or full either edge.
66 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Cutting Skirts — When cutting skirts by the Russell System, or any
commercial pattern, on skirts from three-piece to seven gores, you will
find giving a gradual slope of four inches on the side and back gores
you will have a perfect line as well as the right grain of material
and both seams will be almost on the same weave. This is determined
C3
St
Si3
O
-K.
*0
by marking the exact length you wish skirt to be and placing that
point on the straight or selvage of the material, then mark four inches
back at top of pattern and cut on the straight line as per iUusf ra-
tion above.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRliCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 67
This should also be followed on petticoats, or Princess slips, to
prevent sagging when laundered. Front gore should always be cut on
fold of the material.
5j
I
Is.
On seven gores and upward to the extent of fifteen gores the
slope of two and one-half inches is sufficient; same is determined
by following the same rule given for three to seven-gore skirts.
68 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
In the cutting of materials by the Russell Cut-
ting Device the goods are always cut so the seams
when finished will be almost on the same grain
of the material; then when sewed and pressed the
seam will hardly be noticeable — also when wash-
ing, ironing, or cleaning it will never sag on one side
of the seam and pull and pucker on the other. If
you are forced to use a commercial pattern, try and
select a style that will not give you one straight edge
and one bias.
There are few skirts where we find the seams
very bias over the hips — these are two-piece with
seams on the hips. Although you will find in most
three and four-piece skirts that they have bias seams
over the hips, all others have the seams running
very much the same.
Where you have the bias seams, sew them very
carefully, press well and then hang up for a short
time in order to let the skirt sag before putting the
hem in and you will not be bothered with an uneven
hem afterwards.
The three-piece skirts are good for petticoats,
as the seam in back allows for sitting and keeps
the skirt from wearing.
Full details on how to finish seam on all kinds
of materials will be found on pages 31 to 34; would
suggest that you make a thorough study of the
kind you wish to use, before starting the garment.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 69
Hemming of Skirts — Nothing adds more to the attractiveness of a
skirt or dress than an even, well-finished hem. This can be accom-
plished very easily if the Russell Cutting Device is used, as it
properly marks in and allows the standard three-inch hem, thereby
eliminating all the worry of trying to get the hem even.
But if you wish to use a standard or commercial pattern I
would suggest that you do as follows: After the skirt has been
properly finished and pressed, put it on and adjust to girdle as you will
wear it, take a straight ruler and mark as many inches from floor,
according to the prevailing style and the length that will look
best on a figure of your height.
For marking, either crayon or pins may be used. After this
has been done, baste with a long basting stitch along lines of
marking, press the hem in and mark three and one-fourth inches
and trim even. As the skirt is wider at the bottom than at the place
where turn is made, you will hai^e some surplus material; the seam
of hem should correspond exactly with seam of skirt and all full-
ness must be placed between. This extra fullness in all silks, wash-
goods, and satins can be taken care of by small pleats, or fine
gathers.
lIcMLMII'll 1)V Hillld
70 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Shrinking Fullness of Hems — In woolen materials it should be shrunk
out by running fine gathers and placing damp cloth and pressing par-
allel with gathers.
.Stiluhi'il by Mai-hinc
In materials where it is necessary to put the hem in by hand
would suggest the use of the overhand or the catch stitch, being
very careful not to allow the thread to show on the right side of
material — the catch stitch being the better one for heavy materials
and velvet; where machine stitching is used for hems, would sug-
gest stitching on the wrong side and very close to the edge of turn-
under.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 71
On any heavy materials where machine stitching is desired, the
ribbon or tape finish is exceedingly good. This is done in the follow-
ing manner:
The tape or ribbons should be about three-eighths of an inch
in width, and never to exceed one-half inch in width; after having
your hem trimmed even, gathered, pleated, or shrunken, to fit skirt,
place a piece of cardboard between hem and skirt; now baste your
tape or ribbon to the hem edge, then baste to the skirt and stitch;
this gives you two rows of stitches, but where one row is desired,
you should stitch tape or ribbon to the hem before stitching to skirt.
Exercise great care in prossaig, as a well-pressed garment al-
ways adds much to its attractiveness.
Silks, satins, and most light weight cottons and linens should
be pressed with a hot iron, but no water should be used on the gar-
ment until you have tried a sample, determining if the water will
affect the finish or spot the material.
Seams in velvet may be pressed by the process called steaming
— place a n:oist cloth over the edge of the hot iron and pull the
wrong side of the open seam over until dry, this keeps the pile
raised and does not mar the lustre; pan velvets may be pressed
as silks, satins, etc.
72 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Making of Plackets is
highly important, and by
adhering strictly to the fol-
lowing rule, you will al-
ways have a smooth well-
finished placket. The
placket should be twelve
inches in depth (for me-
dium hip size, which ranges
from forty to forty-six
and over. Where hip meas-
ure is under forty, use
eleven inches for placket).
After the skirt has been
fitted, take off and stitch
the seams, except seam
where placket is to be; this
you stitch within twelve
inches (or eleven, which-
ever you may use), then tie
machine thread; now baste,
starting even with machine
stitching to the waist line,
press all seams flat —
pressing the basted seam
as well as the stitched
ones; this establishes an
exact line for the placket,
pull out the basting thread
to open the placket — care-
ful attention should be paid
to the pulling of bastings
as given elsewhere in this
book.
Basted for jirc.ssing to mark exact line
for placket.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 73
Cut a straight piece of the material two and one-half inches wide,
and a fraction longer than placket is to be; this is to be the binding
for the left or under
edge of the placket; baste
to the placket edge, plac-
ing the right side of the
strip to the right side of
the skirt, and stitch. Be
sure that your basting and
stitching comes exactly on
the crease made by former
pressing, press seam open,
turn the edge of the strip
under one-fourth an inch,
turn the new edge over to
meet the stitching line, us-
ing overhand-stitch for fin-
ishing.
For the right or upper
edge cut a strip one and
one-half inches wide and
the length of placket, baste
and stitch it to upper side
of placket edge with right
sides together; care should
be taken here to follow
crease made by pressing;
remove basting threads
and press open, turn edge
or facing down one-fourth
inch, turn facing on the
line of stitching and baste
to position, fasten to place
by careful blind-stitching
and press; finish at the
lower end by catch-stitch-
ing the binding to the fac-
ing, on the wrong side,
overcasting ends to keep
them from raveling.
74 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
This is a standard rule for plackets, but on very thin materials,
where plackets show
through, it can be much nar-
rower, if care is given to fas-
tening.
Fastening for Plackets—
The snaps are more suit-
able, as they are flat, but
in the using of any kind of
fastenings the weight of
material should be given
careful consideration, so
as not to use a heavy fas-
tener on thin material or
a very small fastener on
heavy material; hooks may
be used very satisfactorily,
where you have the flat
bars to use with them.
If you wish to secure a
smooth tight-fitting plack-
et, too much attention can-
not be given to the proper
spacing of any fasteners
used; should you have them
a little farther apart on
the lap of placket than
binding, your placket will
draw, throwing the whole
seam out of order; should
you have them a little
farther apart on outer edge
of placket than binding, the
goods will stand open be-
tween fasteners and expose
very poor workmanship.
Also be very careful that
your thread used for fas-
teners never shows on the
outside of placket.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 75
Shrinking of Materials — All wash goods should be properly shrunk-
en before cutting, as so many beautiful garments are ruined because
they were not shrunken before the making.
Where this is done by home method great care should be
taken not to pull or stretch the weave of material. The best way
is to have a reliable laundry do this, as it will only cost about
one cent per yard.
In the buying of woolens you should always be sure to ask if
they have already been shrunken. If not, before cutting them have
same properly shrunken, as this will avoid future trouble and insure
from spotting by water.
If done at home use a damp cloth over the wrong side — being
very careful to cover all the material and press dry. Most stores
have a machine for this purpose for the convenience of customers —
but if not, would advise that you take it to some reputable tailor,
as the charge will be very small, and will probably save you the
cost of the material.
Plaits are very popular but most of us dread the pressing incident
to damp days and general wear. However, this may be overcome in
a large measure if the under or inside edges of the plaits are
stitched on the machine about one-sixteenth of an inch from the
edge. This gives the plait the appearance of having been freshly
pressed and is of great aid in pressing, as every plait falls easily
to its proper crease.
This is an excellent way to treat the plaits in little girls' tub
frocks and may be done on the right side edge as well as the wrong
side, if a very fine cotton thread of the same color as the gar-
ment be used for the stitching. The stitching must be very close
to the edge of the plait.
Plaits put in by the Russell method will not require the stitch-
ing, as they have been propely placed on the grain of the material
and will not sag or get out of place.
76 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Pocket in Coat Lining — A well-made coat should never be fin-
ished without an inside pocket, which may be put where most con-
venient to the wearer. It is made in the lining; first cut a strip
of material two inches wide either straight or bias, fold in the
center and press flat; the ends should be sewed and turned, or
turned in and whipped very carefully together. Now pleat in
small pleats not to exceed one-half inch. Have your pleating to
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 77
be at least five inches in length and not to exceed six inches. Baste
pleating on the lining exactly where the pocket is to be and now
take two pieces of materials — would suggest same as lining, hav-
ing them about one-half inch wider than pleating is — baste one
piece with corresponding edges of pleating, with about one-half
inch seam; the other piece should be basted just opposite, with
edges meeting; stitch with sewing machine, on both edges, just
the width of pleating, then slash between.
78 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Have your pleating
extend downward for
first basting on the
coat, and then when
slash and turn is
made, it turns the
pleating upward as
per iUustratioti. Now
turn both pieces for
pocket lining through
this slash, and stitch
any shape desired un-
derneath; the round
finish is better. Press
nicely and finish each
corner with an arrow-
head, or straight bar,
made with buttonhole
twist.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 79
Coat Pocket With
Flap — For making
flaps, cut a piece of
material six inches
long by three and one-
half inches wide, then
sew a seam one-
fourth inch wide,
turn, baste close and
press, then stitch
down one-fourth inch
from the edge — take
another piece six and
one-half inches long
by two and o n e-
fourth inches wide,
baste this with your
80 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
flap on the right side
of coat and stitch one-
fourth inch and the
length of flap, tie
your thread on the
wrong side and cut
your material be-
tween stitching, turn
your lower facing in
and baste firmly with
one-eighth inch ex-
tending; turn your
flaps down and baste
at upper edge, then
press with a damp
cloth on the wrong
side of coat, sew your
pocket lining in place
and finish pocket on
wrong side.
The top or bust
pocket is made in the
same manner, only
flap is five and one-
:^: Jt OBff wj ii .^> ^-v, ,
half inches long and
two inches wide and
reversed, the flap is
sewed on the lower
side of pocket and
turned up — the ends
being blind stitched
in place. The wrong
side for bust pockets
with flap or without
are stitched in the
same manner as iUus-
tration shown for
pockets with flaps.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 81
Pockets Without Flaps —
Cut two striijs of materi-
al six and one-half inches
long and two inches wide,
baste into position and
stitch one-fourth inch
from edge and within one-
half inch from ends, cut
materia] and turn, baste
firmly with one-eighth
inch of facing extending,
then overcast edges to-
82 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
gether, press firmly and
proceed to make pocket
on the other side.
Bound buttonholes are
made in a similar way —
the ends being fastened
with an arrow-head or a
straight bar. The secret
of making pockets and
buttonholes lies in the
pressing.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 8.?
Coatmaking
Place the pattern for front section with the center front on the
lengthwise edge of the material. As in all other cutting, the cloth
should be doubled and both front sections cut at once, being very care-
ful to place the straight edges of the goods together, seeing that the
grain of the material is placed exactly the same the nap (when using
material with nap) extending downwards.
The front side body is placed on the goods with the straight line
of the material running parallel with the center of the section. Pin
pattern to the material to prevent slipping and cut.
Place the center back section with center back on the lengthwise
fold of the material, and cut; the back side body should be placed
the same as the front side body, seeing that the straight line of the
material runs parallel with the c enter of section.
Should you be using the Maud Russell Cutting Device keep in
mind that you only have three-eighths of an inch seam allowance,
which is standard; should you want more you will have to make
your own allowance. It is well to always know the size seam the
pattern allows before starting to make the coat.
The above pertains only to the outer part of the coat or to the
coat without lining; but on strictly tailored coat, where a lining is
required, the following suggestions should be adhered to very closely.
Cut the fronts and front side body from tailor's canvas. The can-
vas should first be shrunken. Side front of canvas should be cut to
extend only about two or three inches down, on the under-arm seam,
and should be sloped gradually toward the front seam, extending
two inches below the waist line — po' iUustraUoyi next pctcje.
84 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Now baste your
coat together, and
try it on — then if
there are any de-
sired changes to be
made, they should
be made in this fit-
ting (should you be
making a tight fit-
ting coat some care
should be given for
the allowance for
the lining) ; care-
fully remove your
bastings and cut
your canvas and lin-
ing — t he lining
should be cut ex-
actly as the coat
with the exception
of the front which
extends back on the
facing of the coat —
a saving of material
can be made here by
a little study.
Sew your front
and side body of
coat together, also
the corresponding
pieces of canvas —
seams to be pressed
in accordance with
style. For instance
if a tailored coat is
being made, the
strictly tailored
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 85
seam should be
used, (IS per ill iisf ra-
tio)! on tailored
seams, always hav-
ing the seam extend
toward t h e a r m -
eyes, both fro m
back and front. If
the coat is to be soft
finish, the same
should be pressed
flat. In the making
of all coats an d
jackets, the seams
should be slashed.
If the coat is to
have pockets, lay
the coat fronts to-
g e t h e r, matching
them very care-
fully, and mark the
desired places for
pockets with chalk;
then tailor tack as
per ill Ksf ration, on
making tailor tacks
or loop-stitching.
Any style pocket
may be used, ac-
cording to prevail-
ing style, full de-
tails being given for
pocket making i n
this book. After
pockets are finished,
press and baste
86 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
your coat to canvas,
being very careful
to not have any
wrinkles either in
canvas or material.
If bust forms are
used they should be
pressed into shape
and inserted at this
time, before p r o -
ceeding any farther
with the coat.
Half of CoUar
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 87
Basting and Pressing
Two Things of Great Importance in Tailoring are Basting and
Pressing. Now the front of coat and lapel should be made. Com-
mence by trimming one-half inch from edge of coat front, baste
your stay- tape (or straight edge) on and fell it to canvas. Mark
your lapel where turn is desired and pad, using padding-stitch
— the padding-stitch is made by keeping the thread on canvas
and just catching enough to hold, without exposing the thread on
the outside of the material.
Stitch back of coat and canvas the same as the front and baste
shoulder seams — the front seam should be stretched on to the back of
coat one-half inch (as every one is inclined to be slightly sunken on
front shoulder seam and round on the back of shoulder seam.) Stitch
on the machine, remove bastings and press.
By stitching on both sides of seam the width of presser foot
makes a pretty and substantial seam. Now stitch under-arm seam,
slash and press.
The collar should be made next, and is done by cutting your
canvas exactly the same and trimming all the way around three-
eighths of an inch, as per illustration; now stitch on the sew-
ing machine as per illustration for the break collar, and pad the re-
mainder of collar as lapel. Sew into position and press.
A good suggestion is to determine the center of collar and
center back of coat and place two corresponding notches together
and baste outward; this insures both sides being even.
Next, determine where you wish the buttonholes to be and space
them, cut canvas out as per ?7/«.s'frf///oH and fell a piece of hning over
canvas to work buttonhole through, as per illustration on buttonhole
work.
88 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Sew your front facing and collar facing in place, the facing
to the right side of the coat side, being very careful to baste
even ; stitch on sewing machine and remove bastings ; now trim half
of remaining seam of coat front away, turn, baste around edge
of collar and coat firmly with two rows of basting, then
press ((-s per iUastratio}i on jrressiwj of irooJcn nidlcridh.
Turn coat even around bottom with hem about one inch and fell to
the coat and press. Baste your lining in the coat after making a
neat pocket as per illustration on inside coat pockets — page 76.
Seams of lining should be slashed the same as coat and basted
very carefully, leaving it a fraction looser than outside of material;
this allows the lining to wear longer and gives a better appear-
ance to the garment; fell all seams, using a fine, short needle
and a fine silk thread, taking evj'ry precaution to not let stitches
catch the coat material — short, ev3n stitches should always be taken
in the felling of coat linings.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
89
After you have cut and
basted your sleeve, try it
on (unless you are using
the Russell system, in
which case it is not neces-
sary, as the sleeve has
been cut to your individ-
ual measure). The sleeve
lining should be cut one
inch longer at the top
than coat material, which
allows for finishing at the
arm-eyes.
After sleeve is made
and properly shaped at
elbow and arm-eye, a piece
of canvas about one inch
wide and cut on the bias
should be basted within
one inch of the bottom of
the sleeve ; fasten securely
at seams, then turn ma-
terial back on canvas,
baste and press, and fell
to the sleeve; have lining
made for sleeves, with
seams slashed and pressed;
turn coat sleeve wrong
side out, slip lining on
with right side out and
fell within about three-
quarters of an inch to the
bottom of the sleeve.
Keep in mind that your
lining is to be one inch
longer at top than sleeve.
This shows inside seams
ami facing, canvased
ready for lining.
90 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Now sew sleeve into
coat as per instructions on
page 59, taking the coat
lining in the seam, press
seam open, baste small roll
of sheet wadding or pad-
ding to the seam at the
shoulder; this should be
about five inches long,
extending mostly over the
front; bring sleeve lining
over to cover seam, baste
and fell the extra inch;
leaving the lining loose
gives extra wear.
Now try coat on, after
it has been properly
pressed with a damp cloth,
and mark for buttons, fin-
ish buttonholes, and sew
on buttons, being very
careful not to let the
thread show through
where buttons are to be
sewed.
Top of sleeve, finished
ready for lining.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 91
The same rule previous-
ly given for the adjusting
of sleeves at arm-eyes, ap-
plies to all makes and
styles of sleeves. After
you have learned to finish
the tv\^o-piece sleeves, as
well as all details given for
fancy effects in this text-
book, you will be able to
complete any kind of a
sleeve desired. You should
put on all buttons, trim-
mings, bound buttonholes,
fancy cuff sets, as well as
finish at hand before lin-
ing. This same rule ap-
plies to all one and two-
piece and fancy sleeves.
Top of sleeve, finished
and lined, ready for arm-
eye.
92 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
The Maude W. Russell System of
Garment Cutting
(PATENTED)
This system does away with all the old-time
work of drafting and study of making your own
allowances, which no one can successfully do with-
out natural talent, or years of drafting.
It contains the whole art of drafting within it-
self. Should you lay it aside for years, the simplicity
of it will readily come back to you, and it has all the
new and up-to-date lines and style of this date. The
superiority of this wonderful invention will offer
its own suggestions for styles in years to come.
THE RUSSELL COMPANY
912 Grand Avenue Kansas City, Mo.
COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 93
INDEX
Portrait of Maude W. Russell _ 2
Foreword 5
An Open Letter - 6
Introduction — 7
Woman's Opportunity — 8
Woman's Benefits - - 9
Important Points on Practical Dressmaking 10-11
Advice on Needles and Thread 12-13
Stitches— ( With Illustrations) 14-22, 41-45
Even Basting- 14
Uneven Basting '. 14
Combination Basting _ 14
Loop Stitching - 37
Chain Stitch 41
Cross Stitch 41
Feather Stitching - 42
Blind Stitch 45
Catch Stitch 45
Running Stitch 15
Back Stitching 15
Overhanding Stitch 16
Overcasting Stitch 16
Blanket Stitch - 17
Buttonholing .18-20
Hemming Muslin 21
Hand Hemming Linen 21
French Hemming Linen _ 22
Roll Hem _ 22
Patching (With Illustrations) 23-25
Hemmed Patch _ 23
Patching on Flannel _ - 24
The Darned Patch - 24
DaiTiing — Table Linen, Stockings, Underwear 25
Hemstitching — Illustrated 26
Gathering — Illustrated - - 27
Sewing on Lace — Illustrated — 28
Insertion Work — Illustrated - 29-30
94 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY
Making Seams — Illustrated 31-40
Finishing Seams 31
Finish ing Seams with Binding _ - 32
Notching Seams - 33
Overcasting Seams 34
Felled Seams 35
Reinforced Seams _ 35
Tailored Seams 36-37
Slot Seams 38-39
French Seams and Knots _ 40
Belts, Pockets and Fancy Trimmings — Illustrated _....46-50
Tucks 47
Embroidery Insertions 48
Piping 48
Bias Facings - 49
Fi tted Facing 49
Making Collars, Etc. — Illustrated _ 51-52
Corset Cover — Illustrated .— 53-54
Underwear _ - 54
Waists—Ilhisfrated - 55-57
Drop Shoulder Waist 55-56
Butterfly Waist 57
Sleeves— Illustrated - 58-59, 89-91
Waist Sleeves - 58-59
Coat Sleeves .: 89-91
Girdles — Illustrated _ 60-65
Mounting Skirt on Girdle _ - 62
Maude W. Russell Girdle -- 63-65
Skirts,— Illustrated 65-75
Cutting Skirts - :....66-68
Hemming Skirts 69
Shrinking Fullness of Hems 70
Finishing and Pressing - 71
Making Plackets 72-73
Fastening Plackets ..■ '^4
Shrinking Materials 75
Plaits .: - 75
Coatmaking — Illustrated - 76-86
Cutting Coats _ -....- 83-86
Pocket in Coat Lining 76-79
Pocket with Flap : - 79-80
Pocket Without Flap 81
Basting and Pressing - .87-88
Maude W. Russell System of Garment Cutting 92
LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS
liiillliiillililiill
014 145 159 5
THE RUSSELL SYSTEM
does away with all the
old-time work of draft-
ing and study of making
your own allowances, which no
one can successfully do without
natural talent, or years of draft-
ing. It contains the whole art
of drafting within itself. Should
you lay it aside for years, the
simplicity of it will readily come
back to you and it has all the
new and up-to-date lines and
style of this date. The superior-
ity of this wonderful invention
will offer its own suggestions for
styles in the years to come.