Qomp/ete Semi no Instructions Russell MAUDE W. RUSSELL Inventor Russell System of Garment Cutting and Author "Complete Sewing Instructions— The Russell Way' COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY The Newest, Simplest, and Most Perfect Method of Sewing Ever Offered Women COPYRIGHTED, 1917, By MAUDE W. RUSSELL KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI All Rights Reserved. Including the Right to Translate Into Any and All Foreign Languages PUBLISHED BY THE RUSSELL COMPANY 912 Grand Avenue KANSAS CITY, MO. I9I7-I918 <> / ©C1.A476691 ^' / / COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY J0r^mor& N THE YEAR 1904 Maude W. Russell established herself as a dressmaker and ladies' tailor and continued this line of work until 1910. During these years of experience she realized how essen- tial it was to the success of her work to have a system of pattern cutting that would simplify the methods of dressmaking then in use. In 1910 she began to teach dressmaking and then realized more than ever the necessity of having some system of pattern cutting which all could readily understand. With the idea of solving this problem she continued her work and finally brought all of the knowledge and principles which she had acquired from her practical experience into use in perfecting the model of the Maude Russell System of Garment Cutting. After much experimenting and careful tests, she perfected this wonderful, adjustable pattern cutting system. This she offered to the public believing that its use would prove a great blessing not only to those who are compelled to earn their liveli- hood by sewing but to every woman who desires to be well dressed at the least possible expenditure of time, trouble and money. The Russell System has proved its worth by every practical test made by it and we are pleased to say that the approval which it has received from the public more than justifies the faith of the inventor in the superiority of her System over any other method of pattern cutting. And by placing this book of Complete Sewing Instructions before the people she knows that every woman can make her own clothes. THE RUSSELL CO. Kansas City, Mo., 1917 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY An Open Letter to My Friends IN ISSUING the new Russell Text Book of Complete Sewing Instruc- tions, it is with the hope that women everj'where will be enabled to over- come the many difficulties with which they have been confronted in mak- ing their own garments. The art of dressmaking and tailoring embraces such a vast scope of knowledge that much of it is impracticable for use in the average busy woman's life. For this reason my time and thought have been given to the invention and perfecting of a system simple enough yet so prac- tical that any woman can avail herself of its benefits and easily become her own designer and d)'essmaker. The work of making her own dresses, or garments for the other members of the family, is a real pleasure to a woman when she is certain of good results, which can always hd obtained with the Russell Sewing Instructions at her command. A great advantage, too, is to have a Russell Cutting Device in the home so the daughters, even at the age of ten or twelve years, can easily be taught to cut perfect fitting patterns and make theii' own garments. The instructions have been mads so plain and the Russell Cutting Device is so easily adjusted to individual measurements that no woman need experience any trouble whatever in gaining a complete knowledge of the work. By the use of the text book THE RUSSELL WAY, the woman in the country home can have the same advantages as her city sister and can equip herself to make not only her plain dresses and house gowns, but she can also select and make garments having the same dash, style and individuality as the more costly tailored gowns. Should there be any problem in sewing that you do not under- stand I shall be glad to receive a personal letter from you stating your problem, and I will assist you in overcoming such difficulties or answer any question you may ask relative to the work. It is my de- sire to render you all the assistance possible to make your work with the Russell System both a pleasure and a success. Believe me to be, Yours very truly, MAUDE W. RUSSELL, 912 Grand Ave. Kansas City, Mo. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Jntrn&ufltnn HE caprice of fashion has; long been a favorite subject with the world; for, women have an inherent desire to be beautiful, and dress plays a large part in their appear- ance and attractiveness. French women, as no other in the world, make their toilette their art, and they, alone, seem to adhere to individuality in dress, which is the secret of good dressing. It is not that they are more beautiful — for they are not — but because they study their own limitations, both in style and color, suggesting ideas in detail, with the result that they are artis- tically gowned, beyond the knowledge of the crowd. Their knowledge, too, of how to wear a gown plays no small part in their artistic appear- ance. Paris has, for many years, been the acknowledged fashion center of the entire world, the hub of the world's fashion wheel, the mirror before which all art folk and all beauty folk have smiled; but today — Paris has a rival. American women are recognized as being among the best dressed women in the world. America means independence and An:ierican women are coming to the realization that individual charm of the face and form may be emphasized and brought out, and many defects in face or figure forgotten, by correct dressing and the wearing of gowns made on becoming lines. Good dressmakers are always high-priced and the continual advance in price of "ready-to-wear" makes even that beyond reach of the many. Hence, the great need of some method of instruction that will enable every woman to cut and make her own garments on becoming lines and to her exact measurements. This need has been fully met by the Russell method, which, though simple, is complete in every way. It is now possible for every woman to equip herself to make at little cost every article of clothing she wears, for the secrets of the dress- maker's art are hers for the asking. Maude Russell has solved this prob- lem for all women, thus enabling them to have the opportunity to learn dressmaking and ladies' tailoring in the home. Her idea of placing the art of cutting and sewing on a scientific basis and making it a part of women's education is rapidly growing in favor, for the reason that it is meeting a long-felt need, never before reached by any method, or by the use of commercial patterns. The Maude W. Russell System of Dressmaking and Garment Cut- ting is the only one in the world today that any woman or young girl can easily master. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY A World of Opportunity Awaits Any Woman of Ambition lyiAUDE W. RUSSELL has evolved a plan whereby any woman may become proficient in the art of dressmaking. Many women do not know how to sew and under the pressure of the high cost of living ai'e in distress of mind as to how they may dress well. Do not try to think it out yourself; Maude W. Russell has done this for you. AY7HEN a woman learns to sew well, she has acquired a worthy accomplishment, and when she has familiarized herself with all the details contained in this Text Book, she has acquired the whole art of dressmaking. In addition to this, when she has learned to cut her own patterns from any design she may select, and to make any gar- ment from the simplest to the most elaborate she may choose, she is then able to do her part to further home economics. The Maude Russell Device for Cutting meets this demand, as you can readily operate it within a few hours time. You will find picture of Russell Device and some of its advantages on page 92. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Your Benefits THE pretty woman is the greatest stimulus in the world. Always her cry of "Give ! Give !" has rung through the earth. Not only the land, but the sea as well, must give to her their treasures. The beasts of the fields, the fowls of the air, the insects and even the wayside blossoms must contribute to her adornment. With all these to help her, woman is not beautiful, if improperly or unbecomingly gowned. With the Russell Cutting Device to aid you, and the instructions given through our text books, you are fitted to dress as well as anyone, and in clothes .that are made especially for you. With one of these sys- tems in your own home, where your time is your own, you are not re- sponsible to anyone for the time usedin studying, nor need it interfere with your home or social duties. You can make the clothes you need, when you want them, and be dressed at one-third the cost of ready-to-wear garments. American women, who are qualified to lead, refuse to submit to the tyranny of fashion. They go forward and the crowd follows, while sim- plicity dominates. Equipped with the Russell Cutting Device and the knowledge of how to use it, you may become the prettily dressed woman who stimulates the world, as well as the leader of the crowds who will follow your example. The art of dressmaking is an enviable accomplishment, and whether you use it in the home, or choose it as a vocation, every woman will ad- mire your cleverness and skill, thus giving you prestige among your friends. You will be made to understand that it is not the woman who has the greatest wealth at her command who is the best dressed, for so many such women wear clothes which bear no relation whatever to their individuality. You will learn, also, that no woman is well dressed whose clothes attract such attention that her personality is overshadowed, for, clothes should be the frame to the human picture and second in im- portance. You will learn that an old face never looks so old as under a youthful hat, and age is less emphasized by mature looking garments that are still becoming, because they add a sweet charm that is the co- quetry of age, while young girls are charming only when arrayed in sim- ple garments. You will have learned all this and have also the added knowledge of how to plan and dress yourself and y our entire family in an individual and becoming manner that makes personality mean more than clothes. 10 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Important Points on Practical Dressmaking First — Do not rush while learning to sew, as you are very apt to overlook some of the most important things, as well as to become nervous and impatient. It is natural for you to progress very rapidly after you have familiarized yourself with the details of dressmaking. Second — Too much attention cannot be paid to the little points of charm that give to your clothes an air of distinction; for example: fancy pockets, bound buttonholes, ties, jabots, fichus, fancy belts, or even button-trimmings, give smart effects to the ordinary garment. These are the items that make ready-to-wear expensive, as well as permit dressmakers to charge such exorbitant prices for the knowl- edge they claim to possess. Descriptions on how to make all the above, as well as a great many more, are contained in this book. Third — In the making of the first garment, great care should be given to finishing of inside seams, snaps, hooks and eyes, buttons and buttonholes. By doing this you will never acquire that slovenly habit of having to pin your garments, thereby shortening the wear as well as attractiveness. It is well to keep in mind in the closing of belts and plackets, where there is any pressure on them, you should al- ways use hooks and eyes, or hooks and bars, as the strain unfastens them. Fourth — A moment's time devoted to the removing of all bastings, tying and clipping of all threads left by machine stitching, and the placing of knots where they can not be seen, will place you in a position where your work can not be criticized even by experts. Fifth — From the most exquisite gown to the plainest underwear, should be pressed before considering the garment finished; every precaution should be used so as not to scorch or spot, and never place an iron on the right side of the material without first having tried a sample to see if it affects the finish. Sixth — A good seamstress always cuts the material instead of tearing — also just a moment of time given to the pulling of a thread. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 11 for a line to cut on will save you a lot of trouble — as torn goods have a tendency to ravel and it is impossible to use with the hemmers, gatherers, and other attachments of your sewing machine. Seventh — Before placing your pattern (either a Russell or a commer- cial) see that the material is folded — folded evenly; this is determined by the selvage, stripes or the grain of the material. Eighth — Where you have stripes, plaids, or floral designs, too much care cannot be exercised in the matching of them — in some cases it will be necessary to change your pattern ; for instance, you might have to trim one gore of your skirt and add it to the other gore or you might have to raise one gore at the waist line in order to start the matching even, but at the same time it is much better to do this, as the trimming of the gore that extends upward will not affect the garment nearly so much as the unmatched lines. Ninth — In the cutting of goods having a nap such as broadcloths, velvets, etc., they should be cut with nap running the same way; for example, where your material is narrow and your gores wide, it will be necessary to cut one at a time — then place the right side of the gore to the right side of the material, taking care that the weave and nap are carefully matched. Tenth — To make sewing a real pleasure as well as a great saver of time, you should have a small room or a space in a room, as well as the following equipment : One Maude Russell Cutting Device, which can be adjusted to any size or form, and cuts to individual measure; with it you can select any kind of a picture and duplicate it into a jDer- fect-fitting pattern, thereby giving you clothes that are different from those worn by your friends, and at a verij siikiU cost ; you will also need a few of the following — a good sewing machine, a pair of ten-inch shears, a pair of buttonhole shears, ironing board, also a sleeve board, a bolt of tape, featherbone, hooks and eyes, snaps, pins, bodkin needles, sewing thread, and an assortment of needles. With this outlay you will be enabled to either conduct a dressmaking business, or do any kind of sewing in your home. 12 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Advice on Needles and Thread For neat work in sewing it is necesary to have definite ideas as to the sizes of needles and thread to be used in the different varieties of sewing. There are several different kinds of needles, of which the follow- ing are the most common and most frequently used: sharps, be- tweens, milHner's, embroidery, and darning or worsted needles. Sharps are long, slender needles, used for basting, gathering, darning or any other practical work, while the fine, short needle is used for hemstitching, hemming, felling and overcasting. Embroidery needles are different lengths and sizes, have long eyes, and are used according to the size of thread and material. Darning needles are similar to embroidery needles, only larger. Milliner's needles are very long and are only used in the making of millinery. Bodkin needles are long and flat with large eyes and are used for running tape, cords, ribbons, etc. A good seamstress should always have a bodkin needle handy, as she will need it frequently while doing fancy or high-class sewing. If you should buy a package of needles labeled Nos. 6 to 9 — in the middle you wiU find No. 6, which is used for heavy sewing or for sew- ing on buttons; next on each side comes No. 7 and No. 8, which are used for medium coarse work, such as hemming towels or heavy stitching; on each side at the edge are No. 9, to be used for fine sewing. The thread must always correspond with the size of the needle; for example, when doing fine sewing, hemming and tucking for which needles Nos. 9 or 10 should be used, the thread should range in num- ber from 70 to 100, depending upon the fineness of the texture or material; Needle No. 8, for stitching and overcasting, should carry thread No. 50 to 70; for working buttonholes in gingham or other materials of medium weight use needles Nos. 7 and 8 and thread No. 50. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 13 The length of thread to be used in the beginner's lessons should be at least 20 inches, which will allow sufficient length to pull through the edge of material and tie a knot without tangling. Where a loopstitch, tailor's tack, or long basting stitch, is de- sired, would advise a thread 30 inches long. Never cut thread, as that causes a square or blunt end and makes it difficult to thread a needle. If you would become proficient in your sewing lessons — always remember to use your thimble at the beginning. I would also advise the closed-end thimble for the beginner as it is much easier, though you will find a great many of the best dressmakers and tailors using the open-end kind. The first and simplest stitches are those knovm as "Basting Stitches" which are three in number: First, even basting; second, uneven basting; third, a sort of combination stitch. If you want to be a good seamstress, you should make a very careful study of basting; but be careful not to overdo it, as a great many dressmaking schools and dressmakers do — so many of them try to carry out the ideas of the old-fashioned tailors who cannot get away from the lined, boned and tight-fitting garments. Of course, tailoring demands more basting than dressmaking, but one should be careful not to overdo it. The Russell Cutting Device of individual measure eliminates a great deal of basting, as the garment is cut to fit the form and does not have to be basted into shape — it also allows all seams, thereby as- suring you of no alterations, and every seam matches so perfectly, each and every part of the garment fits together so nicely, that bast- ing is not necessary. Will add, though, that where basting is neces- sary one cannot give it too much attention. Before removing the basting threads be sure that all knots have been removed, as the drawing of them through the material is liable to break the thread of the material, thereby causing holes. 14 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Even Basting — Place the two pieces of materials together, one upon the other, with the edges even, then pin securely so as to prevent slipping or stretching. This is an in-and out stitch and the stitches and spaces between are of even length, as per illus- tration given below; both stitches and spaces should be from one-fourth to one- half an inch in length — that is governed accord- ing to the thickness of the material. In basting, always place the knot on the right side of the material to be bast- ed, so that basting thread may be easily removed when no longer needed. To remove the basting thread from the material cut the thread at short intervals and pull carefully, always removing the knot first. Uneven Basting — Place material to be basted to- gether with edges even, then pin securely. This method of basting has one short stitch and one long, alternating as sko n-u i)i the (iccoiii])(n)j/iii(j ilJus- trution; place a knot on the right of upper side of material, and remove basting when no longer needed. Combination Basting- — This basting is used when we wish the basting to be very se- cure. Proceed by plac- ing and pinning the ma- terials as taught in di- rection for even and un- even basting and follow suggestions 'm the illus- t nit ion — the short stitches should be at left angles to the long stitches; this thread is to be removed in the same manner as that of even and uneven. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 15 Running Stitch — This stitch is just the same as the even-basting stitch, excei)t as to length. For the running stitch the stitches and spaces between should be of equal length, depending upon the fineness of the material upon which you sew. Sizes of needles and thread should correspond with fineness of materials also. ^Tlic illnst ration (ibovc will give a correct idea of how your work should look. In the running stitch we use no knot, but instead fasten the beginning of the seam-to-be, also fastening the thread in the same way at the end to prevent ripping. Back Stitching- — This stitch is the one our grandmothers em- ployed, which so closely resembled machine stitching and was made in the following manner: Use no knot, but fasten the thread in the manner suggested for the running stitch. Take up twice the amount of material on the needle from the wrong side that you wish your stitch length to be, draw needle thru and insert in material at the point of one-half the length of the stitch just taken. Again take up and repeat as before — see iUustration above. This stitch is used where it is necessary to have strength and security in the seam. 16 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Overhanding Stitch — This stitch is used when we wish to fas- ten edges of material together in a secured seam. Place edges together, pin and baste. This is an over-and- over stitch and is made by inserting the needle from the under side and joassing the thread over the edges of the material to be sewed. If the thread should be of insufficient length to finish the seam, fasten thread by allowing it to run along with the edge un- der the first five or six stitches made by the new thread — see illustration above. Overcasting — This is also an over-and-over stitch and is used to prevent materials from raveling at the edge; it is used on the edges of seams to be pressed opsn, or may be used on flat seams where tailoring work is desired; place the knot on the wrong side and insert the needle from the under side. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 17 In appearance this stitch is much like overhanding, but the stitches are longer and farthei- apart. Care should be exercised that stitches be of equal length and distance apart This is used mostly in finishing inside seams of heavy wool- ens or crash, and is especially good on materials that show a ten- dency to ravel. Blanket Stitch — Like overcasting, it is used for finishing edges or to prevent raveling. These stitches may be of even length or they may be a short and a long stitch alternating; this stitch is some- times called the loopstitch. Make a knot in the end of the thread to fasten it and insert the needle the desired length of the stitch from the edge of the ma- terial; next insert the needle on the right side, holding thread with the thumb of left hand so that it will form a loop as shoirn in the ill list nit ion ; to turn a corner, work three stitches from the same place with the middle one running diagonally from the point where the nee- dle was inserted over the corner of material. 18 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Buttonholing is related to the foregoing stitch, but gives a stronger edge than the blanket stitch, even should the stitches be placed as close together as the buttonhole stitches are. The Stitcli is shown here on the edge of the canvas, but may be seen below, where the detail of buttonhole making is explained. / •"'^^llj^ X-'-'J Fasten the thread at the end by taking a few running stitches, insert the needle from the under side one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the material — hold needle in position with the left thumb and first finger — the thumb on the upper side of material with the nail against the needle and the finger under the needle; with the right thumb and first finger take the thread, about two inches from the eye of the needle, and place under the needle point from right to left. Pull the needle through. This looping the thread over the COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 19 needle forms a knot. Pull knot tight by pulling needle and thread in direct line with the stitch. All stitches should be equal length and thread must be close together. There should be no space and no over-lapping threads. Buttonholes — First study the material on which you are mak- ing the buttonholes, and where it is possible to use an inner lining, do so, as it improves the appearance very much, and it is firmer to handle; after the buttonholes have been spaced and cut the exact size, they should be serged all the way around — this is a short, overhand stitch, on some real loose material; would suggest stitch- ing around with a sewing machine as it holds it more firmly and is less apt to pull. Thia stitching should not exceed one-eighth of an inch and one-sixteenth is better. The serging is done with the overhand stitch, which should be about one-sixteenth of an inch, or if the machine stitching has been done, the ovei'hand stitch should cover the machine stitch. 20 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY The same rule applies to all materials. The strictly tailored but- tonhole has the round opening on front; this has to be made with a buttonhole punch. After you have learned to cut and serge the buttonhole, you are now ready to finish. On cotton or linen material use cotton and linen thread, always usint;- coarse thread, No. 40 being the standard size. On woolens and silk material, the silk buttonhole twist is used. First make a knot in your thread — using a thread about thirty inches in length, as this will complete the buttonhole without hav- ing to renew thread, which would make a bad looking place in the buttonhole. Begin at the rear of the buttonhole by placing your knot be- tween the two materials, and use the regular but- tonhole stitch as shown. Great care should be exercised in having your stitches the same length and not to show any ma- terial between stitches, as the closer your stitches are together the neater your buttonhole. After buttonholes have been worked the edges should be felled together and pressed; this is the final finish and should never be neglected. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 21 Hemming- Muslin — First pull your thread to determine a straight line and then cut the material, turn over one-fourth of an inch to take care of raw edge (this may be reduced to one-eighth on fine material) then turn again the width of hem desired and baste to position, using even basting stitches. After the hem has been basted (using the long basting stitch) pull thread from needle without fastening, so as to make it easy to remove basting thread ; then stitch on sewing machine. Hand Hemming- — Determine width of hem, turn and baste, fol- lowing same rule as for stitching on machine. Now thread your needle with thread to be used for hem and insert between the fold of material; this will place the knot where it cannot be seen from either side of hem — use the hemming stitch, which looks very much like overhanding, but is made by inserting the needle in the opposite manner. Care should be taken to prevent the thread from being too noticeable on the right side of material. This result may be secured by inserting the needle under only one or two of the threads of the material before entering the hem edge. 22 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY French Hemming Linen — Turn the hem, following directions given for hemming muslins by hand. Turn the hem back on the right side ":,i . : : .i':. ., • .^■',■■•1 ■;,■;.,„•,.;[■;';■. .. ' :,■■ ■'•;.■,■ ;..':--Y:'."w>ji:^ \ /"" --X ^ / / / / / / V .y i'«^y*t»-«*.A.''U-^ 4-.---., — ■---«-...^.^^^,^^^^^^y'^ , i of material and crease the edge where turned, using fine stitches; overhand together the edges thus formed, turn hem out and press flat. Roll Hem — This is used in all fine sheer materials, and especially where laces and insertions are used. Where the roll hem is desired, you should always have the material cut and properly trimmed be- COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 23 fore starting the work. You should be very careful to roll the hem as small as possible and very even, using the overhand stitch, taking as small stitches as you can in order to take care of the roll h(4n. Where laces and insertions are used, only one stitch is taken to secure the roll hem at the same time. Patching Patching may be done in several ways. We have the hemmed patch, the darned patch, and patching on flannel. Hemmed Patch — Cut the worn or torn place square; then cut patch square, about one inch larger than hole, and match the weave of the two materials. To form the hem square at each corner, the cloth must be cut diagonally from the corner to the depth of one- fourth of an inch, which will give you a sufficient amount to fasten patch underneath. Where stripes, plaids or floral designs are used, great care should be used in the matching. While this patch is used principally for wearing apparel, yet it is excellent for bed linens, towels, or any cotton or linen gar- ments that must bear frequent laundering. In the patching of good or expensive garments the hemming stitch should always be used, but on coarse, ordinary garments the running stitch is used, as it is a great saver of time. 24 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Patching- on Flannel may be done by cutting out the worn place and inserting a hem patch, but this gives rather a heavy edge to the patch ; so it is better to leave the patch flat and sew around both the inside and the outside with a catch stitch which is described on jiage 45 ; this stitch is used also for finishing seams in flannel. The Darn Patch is used on table linens, woolen materials and the like. It is best in this style of patching to use a thread of the same kind as material, if possible. Any worn place is, as a rule, more easily mended by darning than in any other way and is also less noticeable. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 25 Cut out a patch of sufficient size, place it and baste securely under worn spot, weave the thread back and forth, using the run- ning stitch, following the weave each way. In this manner the loose worn ends are fastened down — then press well. Be careful to not draw the thread too tight, as that gives the entire patch a drawn look. Darning Stockings and Underwear. — Either baste the material to a piece of cardboard, or hold securely over some other smooth sur- face. As the garment or stocking is usually worn rather thin around the hole, it is necessary to darn it well back from the open- ing to prevent the strain of new threads tearing a new hole. To darn, use the running stitch and cover as much space as seems worn, bringing the thread under and over, alternating each time, as shown in illustrafioii. These new threads must not be drawn tight, but must be left loose enough to allow for shrinkage when laundered. 26 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Hemstitching— This is a very pretty finish and may be used on any materials from the finest made to the heaviest of linens or flannels. First decide upon the width of hem desired, and pull as many threads as required to make the width you wish the hemstitched open work to be — the space between the edge of the material and the pulled threads should be twice the width of the finished hem. Turn the hem to the line formed by pulling the threads and baste; work on the side upon which the hem is turned; fasten the thread by taking a few running stitches from the left to right on the inside of hem turned; hold work over first finger, securing it between thumb and middle finger of the left hand ; holding the needle with point away from you, insert under the number of threads you desire (this may range from two to six, depending upon the fineness of the work wished) and pull through; take a short hemming stitch at the right of this grou]) which serves to fasten the hem down. Sec ill list nifioii (ihoi'C. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 27 Gathering — The thread for gathering should be double, and the knot at the end should be of suffi- cient size to prevent it from slipping through— you may use an even running or an uneven running stitch. The length of stitches should be governed according to the thickness of the material — but in all cases the finer your stitches the nicer and more even your gathers will be. Several stitches should be taken on the needle before it is pulled through the goods; when the material has been gathered to the required length a knot should be placed in the end of the thread after the needle has been removed ; the gathers may then be drawn to the length desired and secured so by wrapping the thread around an inserted pin — see I Jhist ration nhovc. Gathers may be more evenly distributed and more easily held in proper form if two or three gathering threads are used, ranging eighth to one-fourth inch apart. from one- In gathering ruffles on any straight material would suggest that you use the gather attachment on machine, as it can be easily adjusted and spaced to the amount of fullness desired and is a great saver of time. 28 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Sewing on Lace — Lace is commonly sewed to the edge of the ma- terial. The lace should be placed with the right side facing the right side of the goods, with the edges even. The stitch used is overhanding. The needle should catch just the edge of the lace and the edge of the material and the stitches should be close together. When sewing on lace that is not gathered the lace should be held a little full. This may be done by pushing it slightly with the thumb of the left hand. If the lace is to be gathered, it may be done by pulling the heavy thread at the top. Sew on as directed, using a fine, short needle with fine thread. Insertions may be put in by overhanding to the rolled or hemmed edges of the material. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 29 Insertions may be put in by using the overhand stitch. The nicest way is to roll the hem in as small a roll as is possible according to the material you are using (per ilhistrafioti, juific 22); in this way the one overhand stitch takes care of the insertion and roll. You should be very careful to hold the insertion a little full when putting on, as lace shrinks more than material, otherwise it will appear drawn when washed. In the use of insertion on plain materials or ruffles, where speed is desired, would suggest the use of the hemming attachment on machine; then hold insertion a little full and stitch by machine or overhand as preferred. An easier and more rapid way of putting in insertion is to place the right side of the insertion on the right side of the material and baste the insertion to place, carefully basting both edges. Stitch on the sewing machine, being careful to keep about one-sixteenth of an inch in from the edge of the insertion. Now turn to the wrong 30 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY side and cut the material, keeping the line straight half way between stitchings. Turn back and crease. Stitch again with the machine, this time on exact edge of insertion. Trim close to stitching. This ^^^B -:" "'~:''4<^^^[^^^H leaves the raw edge of the material on the wrong side, but gives no inconvenience as the double stitching prevents pulling out. This method is especially good for muslin and similar mate- rials. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY 31 Finishing: Seams — It is necessary that all seam edges should be evenly basted before stitching, as this precludes any possibility of stretching one edge upon the other. Seams may be finished either by hemming, binding, overcasting, notching, felling or French seaming. In all silks and satins, would advise using the process called hemming, cy.s- jxr iJhistntfiou (thovc: after seams have been basted and stitched and bast- hig thread removed, then press the seam open, and turn under each of the seam edges about one- fourth of an inch. Fasten with running stitches, exercising care to prevent stretching or pulling of the edges; would advise the use of silk thread in this case. Where one is familiar with the sewing machine this can be stitched down very nicely and will save a great deal of time. 32 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Finished Seams With Binding — This is the only satisfactory way of finishing seams that ravel. On linen or cotton goods would advise the regular bias binding that may be purchased in all depart- ment stores, but on fine materials such as vel- vets, serges, etc., you may use any of the follow- ing materials: nets, cliiffous, i-liiua silks, nrfjaud// or iiulici Illicit. By using these you will be able to match any color or shade. By referring to page 49 you will see how to cut these materials on the true bias before using. These bias strips should be cut from three-quar- ters to one inch in width — that is determined by the thickness of material you are using; then overhand the strips together or stitch them in a flat seam on the machine — being very careful to always place the right side of the bias material to the right side of material of seam ; then stitch one-fourth of an inch, or width of presser foot, and turn bias binding over this seam, allowing the raw edges of bias to extend flat underneath; this is fastened down either by a running stitch, by hand or machine stitching. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 33 Notching the Seams — This method is sometimes used in heavy ma- terials and those materials so closely woven that there is little dan- ger of raveling edges — broadcloth especially is finished in this man- ner. After basting and stitching, and basting threads have been re- moved, hold seam edges together between thumb and finger of left hand and cut V-shape notches as slwnni in the illustration; unless you are familiar with this work, would suggest that you try a sam- ple before attempting to notch the garment, taking great care to not cut too deep, at the same time not using so much space but that one V will extend to the other, leaving a sharp point. Where any distance is left between it shows a blunt end, and poor workmanship — small sharp shears are very essential in this work. 34 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Overcasting- Seams — Press the seam open and trim the edges until they are free from raveling. It is better to alv^ays start from the bottom of a skirt and overcast toward the w^aist line, as this follows the weave of the material, keeping the ends of all materials running downward, making it much easier to do. Where you have sleeves and inside waist seams you should also overcast in the same manner, with spaces between stitches of one-fourth inch, and just deep enough to take care of edges; be careful not to draw your stitches tight enough to pull the edge of the seam. This method of finishing never causes a streak or worn appearance on the right side of the gar- ment and in washing and pressing does not leave a slick or shiny appearance. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE lUSSELL WAY 35 Felled Seams — Baste and sew edges together, using standard seam which is three-eighths of an inch. Cut off the seam edge on the left to one-eighth of an inch, turn the other or right edge under, as for hemming and press flat, then use the running stitch or machine stitch- ing, the latter being the one most frequently used — felled seams are used principally in underwear, men's shirts, shirtwaists, etc. Reinforced Seams — Sometimes where strong seams are needed it is necessary to reinforce the seam by sewing a straight piece of the material in with the seam, this seam should be three-fourths of an inch wide; cut off the edges as directed above and turn in the edge of the added piece as for hemming; baste or press flat and stitch, by hand or machine. ,- ...^ i f t 1 36 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY On light weight materials, the edges may be turned under as per Uhistnttio)} ; but on heavy materials, such as linens, and woolens the seams should be left raw, and then finished by overcasting. In coats or jack- ets, where lining is to be used it is not necessary to finish them at all. Tailored Seams — These are made by stitching the seams and press- ing them flat, per ill list rat ion. Then on the right side of the material stitch any width de- sired, although one-fourth inch is standard and is usually the best. This seam applies only to tai- lored coats and skirts. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 37 Tailor Tacking, or Loop-Stitching, as it is sometimes called, is used in making slot seams, pleats, or inside marking of any fancy braid- ing or trimming, set-in pocket, etc. Placing your two corresponding pieces together, is the only accurate way of getting both sides or pieces alike. Where markings inside of seams are necessary, this stitch should be used, as it avoids mistakes which are often made by the use of crayon or tracing wheel. Should you be making a pleated skirt, for instance, or one where pleats or yoke is set in, place the two corresponding pieces together with right sides facing, then place paper pattern on and loop stitch through pattern and material at the same time. You will thus find it very easy to do accurate work and obtain pleasing results. This stitch is made by using coarse thread (about No. 40), double your thread, using long strands. It is best not to tie a knot when loop-stitching, as you always leave a loose end extending. Now commence by taking the first stitch about one-quarter of an inch and the next one from one to two inches, according to the weight of the material, as the heavier the material the longer the stitch; repeat until you have gone the length desired. Now clip in the center of the long stitches. When goods are pulled apart the threads will remain in each piece of material for marking. 38 COMPLETE SEWING INSTKUCTIONt^THE RUSSELL WAY Slot Seam— This is a seam that never goes out of style, because it is one that is always practical and attractive. It can be used in dresses, coats, skirts, etc., where slot seams are used on skirts; it enables you to make an invisible placket as well as the opening of a waist, either front or back; this is exceptionally good for some styles. This seam is made by basting your seams, using the small even basting stitch. The half -inch seam is plenty wide; the standard three-eighth seam is good, unless you want wide slots. After this has been basted and fitted, press seam open, then cut straight piece of material, as wide as your seam is after being pressed open, and baste it flat, using the long basting stitch on both edges, as per illns- frafioii. Now press again and stitch from the right side the desired width, as per illiisf ration on foUoiviug jxitic; should you be stitching wider than the presser foot of the machine, would advise the use of the quilter attachment. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 39 You will find on some materials it is very necessary to stitch downward on each side; in doing this it is impossible to use the quilter on both sides, as it throws the stitching opposite, but on stitch- ing the right hand side of your seam, the quickest and most accurate way to accomplish this is to commence at the bottom of the skirt, using your quilter or presser foot to gauge, but remove thread from the machine needle ; run full length of the seam. This makes a mark to stitch on. Now remove your quilter and thread your machine needle, and you can stitch the downward seam without any trouble; when the bastings are removed, that leaves an opening exposing the under- neath strip slightly. A great many times this strip is of a different color which makes a very pretty finish. Seams may be finished by binding or overcasting. 40 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY French Seams — Place the mate- rials with the wrong sides to- gether, and baste; this will make the seam on the ri o ^^.^ kj \ ^-v, , half inches long and two inches wide and reversed, the flap is sewed on the lower side of pocket and turned up — the ends being blind stitched in place. The wrong side for bust pockets with flap or without are stitched in the same manner as iUus- tration shown for pockets with flaps. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 81 Pockets Without Flaps — Cut two striijs of materi- al six and one-half inches long and two inches wide, baste into position and stitch one-fourth inch from edge and within one- half inch from ends, cut materia] and turn, baste firmly with one-eighth inch of facing extending, then overcast edges to- 82 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY gether, press firmly and proceed to make pocket on the other side. Bound buttonholes are made in a similar way — the ends being fastened with an arrow-head or a straight bar. The secret of making pockets and buttonholes lies in the pressing. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 8.? Coatmaking Place the pattern for front section with the center front on the lengthwise edge of the material. As in all other cutting, the cloth should be doubled and both front sections cut at once, being very care- ful to place the straight edges of the goods together, seeing that the grain of the material is placed exactly the same the nap (when using material with nap) extending downwards. The front side body is placed on the goods with the straight line of the material running parallel with the center of the section. Pin pattern to the material to prevent slipping and cut. Place the center back section with center back on the lengthwise fold of the material, and cut; the back side body should be placed the same as the front side body, seeing that the straight line of the material runs parallel with the c enter of section. Should you be using the Maud Russell Cutting Device keep in mind that you only have three-eighths of an inch seam allowance, which is standard; should you want more you will have to make your own allowance. It is well to always know the size seam the pattern allows before starting to make the coat. The above pertains only to the outer part of the coat or to the coat without lining; but on strictly tailored coat, where a lining is required, the following suggestions should be adhered to very closely. Cut the fronts and front side body from tailor's canvas. The can- vas should first be shrunken. Side front of canvas should be cut to extend only about two or three inches down, on the under-arm seam, and should be sloped gradually toward the front seam, extending two inches below the waist line — po' iUustraUoyi next pctcje. 84 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Now baste your coat together, and try it on — then if there are any de- sired changes to be made, they should be made in this fit- ting (should you be making a tight fit- ting coat some care should be given for the allowance for the lining) ; care- fully remove your bastings and cut your canvas and lin- ing — t he lining should be cut ex- actly as the coat with the exception of the front which extends back on the facing of the coat — a saving of material can be made here by a little study. Sew your front and side body of coat together, also the corresponding pieces of canvas — seams to be pressed in accordance with style. For instance if a tailored coat is being made, the strictly tailored COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 85 seam should be used, (IS per ill iisf ra- tio)! on tailored seams, always hav- ing the seam extend toward t h e a r m - eyes, both fro m back and front. If the coat is to be soft finish, the same should be pressed flat. In the making of all coats an d jackets, the seams should be slashed. If the coat is to have pockets, lay the coat fronts to- g e t h e r, matching them very care- fully, and mark the desired places for pockets with chalk; then tailor tack as per ill Ksf ration, on making tailor tacks or loop-stitching. Any style pocket may be used, ac- cording to prevail- ing style, full de- tails being given for pocket making i n this book. After pockets are finished, press and baste 86 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY your coat to canvas, being very careful to not have any wrinkles either in canvas or material. If bust forms are used they should be pressed into shape and inserted at this time, before p r o - ceeding any farther with the coat. Half of CoUar COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 87 Basting and Pressing Two Things of Great Importance in Tailoring are Basting and Pressing. Now the front of coat and lapel should be made. Com- mence by trimming one-half inch from edge of coat front, baste your stay- tape (or straight edge) on and fell it to canvas. Mark your lapel where turn is desired and pad, using padding-stitch — the padding-stitch is made by keeping the thread on canvas and just catching enough to hold, without exposing the thread on the outside of the material. Stitch back of coat and canvas the same as the front and baste shoulder seams — the front seam should be stretched on to the back of coat one-half inch (as every one is inclined to be slightly sunken on front shoulder seam and round on the back of shoulder seam.) Stitch on the machine, remove bastings and press. By stitching on both sides of seam the width of presser foot makes a pretty and substantial seam. Now stitch under-arm seam, slash and press. The collar should be made next, and is done by cutting your canvas exactly the same and trimming all the way around three- eighths of an inch, as per illustration; now stitch on the sew- ing machine as per illustration for the break collar, and pad the re- mainder of collar as lapel. Sew into position and press. A good suggestion is to determine the center of collar and center back of coat and place two corresponding notches together and baste outward; this insures both sides being even. Next, determine where you wish the buttonholes to be and space them, cut canvas out as per ?7/«.s'frf///oH and fell a piece of hning over canvas to work buttonhole through, as per illustration on buttonhole work. 88 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Sew your front facing and collar facing in place, the facing to the right side of the coat side, being very careful to baste even ; stitch on sewing machine and remove bastings ; now trim half of remaining seam of coat front away, turn, baste around edge of collar and coat firmly with two rows of basting, then press ((-s per iUastratio}i on jrressiwj of irooJcn nidlcridh. Turn coat even around bottom with hem about one inch and fell to the coat and press. Baste your lining in the coat after making a neat pocket as per illustration on inside coat pockets — page 76. Seams of lining should be slashed the same as coat and basted very carefully, leaving it a fraction looser than outside of material; this allows the lining to wear longer and gives a better appear- ance to the garment; fell all seams, using a fine, short needle and a fine silk thread, taking evj'ry precaution to not let stitches catch the coat material — short, ev3n stitches should always be taken in the felling of coat linings. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 89 After you have cut and basted your sleeve, try it on (unless you are using the Russell system, in which case it is not neces- sary, as the sleeve has been cut to your individ- ual measure). The sleeve lining should be cut one inch longer at the top than coat material, which allows for finishing at the arm-eyes. After sleeve is made and properly shaped at elbow and arm-eye, a piece of canvas about one inch wide and cut on the bias should be basted within one inch of the bottom of the sleeve ; fasten securely at seams, then turn ma- terial back on canvas, baste and press, and fell to the sleeve; have lining made for sleeves, with seams slashed and pressed; turn coat sleeve wrong side out, slip lining on with right side out and fell within about three- quarters of an inch to the bottom of the sleeve. Keep in mind that your lining is to be one inch longer at top than sleeve. This shows inside seams ami facing, canvased ready for lining. 90 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Now sew sleeve into coat as per instructions on page 59, taking the coat lining in the seam, press seam open, baste small roll of sheet wadding or pad- ding to the seam at the shoulder; this should be about five inches long, extending mostly over the front; bring sleeve lining over to cover seam, baste and fell the extra inch; leaving the lining loose gives extra wear. Now try coat on, after it has been properly pressed with a damp cloth, and mark for buttons, fin- ish buttonholes, and sew on buttons, being very careful not to let the thread show through where buttons are to be sewed. Top of sleeve, finished ready for lining. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 91 The same rule previous- ly given for the adjusting of sleeves at arm-eyes, ap- plies to all makes and styles of sleeves. After you have learned to finish the tv\^o-piece sleeves, as well as all details given for fancy effects in this text- book, you will be able to complete any kind of a sleeve desired. You should put on all buttons, trim- mings, bound buttonholes, fancy cuff sets, as well as finish at hand before lin- ing. This same rule ap- plies to all one and two- piece and fancy sleeves. Top of sleeve, finished and lined, ready for arm- eye. 92 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY The Maude W. Russell System of Garment Cutting (PATENTED) This system does away with all the old-time work of drafting and study of making your own allowances, which no one can successfully do with- out natural talent, or years of drafting. It contains the whole art of drafting within it- self. Should you lay it aside for years, the simplicity of it will readily come back to you, and it has all the new and up-to-date lines and style of this date. The superiority of this wonderful invention will offer its own suggestions for styles in years to come. THE RUSSELL COMPANY 912 Grand Avenue Kansas City, Mo. COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY 93 INDEX Portrait of Maude W. Russell _ 2 Foreword 5 An Open Letter - 6 Introduction — 7 Woman's Opportunity — 8 Woman's Benefits - - 9 Important Points on Practical Dressmaking 10-11 Advice on Needles and Thread 12-13 Stitches— ( With Illustrations) 14-22, 41-45 Even Basting- 14 Uneven Basting '. 14 Combination Basting _ 14 Loop Stitching - 37 Chain Stitch 41 Cross Stitch 41 Feather Stitching - 42 Blind Stitch 45 Catch Stitch 45 Running Stitch 15 Back Stitching 15 Overhanding Stitch 16 Overcasting Stitch 16 Blanket Stitch - 17 Buttonholing .18-20 Hemming Muslin 21 Hand Hemming Linen 21 French Hemming Linen _ 22 Roll Hem _ 22 Patching (With Illustrations) 23-25 Hemmed Patch _ 23 Patching on Flannel _ - 24 The Darned Patch - 24 DaiTiing — Table Linen, Stockings, Underwear 25 Hemstitching — Illustrated 26 Gathering — Illustrated - - 27 Sewing on Lace — Illustrated — 28 Insertion Work — Illustrated - 29-30 94 COMPLETE SEWING INSTRUCTIONS— THE RUSSELL WAY Making Seams — Illustrated 31-40 Finishing Seams 31 Finish ing Seams with Binding _ - 32 Notching Seams - 33 Overcasting Seams 34 Felled Seams 35 Reinforced Seams _ 35 Tailored Seams 36-37 Slot Seams 38-39 French Seams and Knots _ 40 Belts, Pockets and Fancy Trimmings — Illustrated _....46-50 Tucks 47 Embroidery Insertions 48 Piping 48 Bias Facings - 49 Fi tted Facing 49 Making Collars, Etc. — Illustrated _ 51-52 Corset Cover — Illustrated .— 53-54 Underwear _ - 54 Waists—Ilhisfrated - 55-57 Drop Shoulder Waist 55-56 Butterfly Waist 57 Sleeves— Illustrated - 58-59, 89-91 Waist Sleeves - 58-59 Coat Sleeves .: 89-91 Girdles — Illustrated _ 60-65 Mounting Skirt on Girdle _ - 62 Maude W. Russell Girdle -- 63-65 Skirts,— Illustrated 65-75 Cutting Skirts - :....66-68 Hemming Skirts 69 Shrinking Fullness of Hems 70 Finishing and Pressing - 71 Making Plackets 72-73 Fastening Plackets ..■ '^4 Shrinking Materials 75 Plaits .: - 75 Coatmaking — Illustrated - 76-86 Cutting Coats _ -....- 83-86 Pocket in Coat Lining 76-79 Pocket with Flap : - 79-80 Pocket Without Flap 81 Basting and Pressing - .87-88 Maude W. Russell System of Garment Cutting 92 LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS liiillliiillililiill 014 145 159 5 THE RUSSELL SYSTEM does away with all the old-time work of draft- ing and study of making your own allowances, which no one can successfully do without natural talent, or years of draft- ing. It contains the whole art of drafting within itself. Should you lay it aside for years, the simplicity of it will readily come back to you and it has all the new and up-to-date lines and style of this date. The superior- ity of this wonderful invention will offer its own suggestions for styles in the years to come.