I ^B Class !"QaQ%„ Rnnk .Kg COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT London. Bassinettes {Patent Folding). Garrard, S. B., 57, Westbourne (i.-OVO. Bedroom Furniture. Noaotti, C., 397, 398, 399, and 399a, Oxford Street. Belgian Works of Art. Borgen, A. & Co., 142, New I Bond Street. Berlin Repository. Miall & Co., 168, Eegent Street. Bookbinding". Hatchards, 187, Piccadilly. Booksellers. Adams, William James, 59, Fleet Street, E.C., and 2, Pleydell Street, Bonverie Street, E.G. Agnew, Thomas & Sons, 5, Waterloo Place, S.W. Allen, W. H. & Co., 13, Waterloo Place, S.W. Bagster, Saml. & Sons, 15, Paternoster Row. Barfoot & Co., 295, Strand, W.C. Bell, Geo. & Sons, 4, 5 and 6, "York Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Bentley, Richard & Son, 8, New Burlington Street, W. Bickers & Son, 1, Leicester Square, W.C. Black, G-eorge, 112, Regent Street, S.W. Blackie, John & Sons (Whole- sale), 6, Paternoster Build- ings, E.G. Blackwood, Wm. & Sons (Wholesale), 37, Paternoster Row, E.G. Bumpus, John, 158 and 297, Oxford Street, W r . Cassell, Better & Galpin (Whole- sale), La Belle Sauvage Yard, E.G. Chapman & Hall, 193, Picca- dilly, W. Churchill, John and Augustus (Medical), 11, New Burlington Street, W. Booksellers -continued. Clowes, Wm. & Sons, 13 and 14, < Charing Cross, S.W. Cornish, James & Sons, 297, Holborn, W.C. Darton, John M. (Wholesale), 42, Paternoster Row. Dean & Son (Wholesale), 160a, Fleet Street, E.C. Groombridge & Sons (Whole- sale), 5, Paternoster Row, E.G. Hardwick, Robert, 192, Picca- dilly, W. Hatchard, Messrs. 187, Picca- dilly, W. Houlston & Sons, 7, Paternoster Buildings, E.G. Hurst & Blackett, 13, Great Marlboro' Street, W. Letts, Thomas (Geographical), 2, Crown Buildings, Queen Victoria Street, S W. Longmans & Co. "(VSnolesale), 38 to 41, Paternc ,ter Row, E.C. Low (Sampson), Marston & Co. (American), 188, Fleet Street, E.G. May, Fredk. & Son, 160, Picca- dilly, W. Mudie's Select Library, 20, 21 and 22, Museum Street, W.C., 509 to 511, Oxford Street. Nelson, Thomas & Sons, 35 and 36, Paternoster Row, E.C. Nisbet, James & Co., 21 and 22, Berners Street, W. Religious Book and Tract De- pot, Devons Road, Bromley,E . Rivington & Co., 3, Waterloo Place, S.W. Routledge, Geo. & Sons, 7, Broadway, E.C. Simpkin, Marshall & Co. (Wholesale), 4, Stationers' Hall Court, E.C. Stanford, Edward, 6, 7 and 8, Charing Cross, S.W. Stevens, Benj. F. (American), 17, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. Tegg, Wm., 12^. Pancras Lane, E.C. LONDON. Booksellers— continued. Tinsley Brothers, 8, Catherine Street, Strand, W.C. Triibner & Co. (American and European), 57 and 59,Ludgate Hill, E.C. Ward, Lock & Tyler, 1, Amen Corner, E.C. Warne, F. & Co., 15, Bedford Street, W.C. Whittaker & Co., 13 to 16, Ave Maria Lane, E.C. Bootmakers. Cording, J. C. (Fisnhig and Shooting), 231, Strand. Lovelace, J., 11, Tichborne Street, and 6, Sherwood St. Breech Loaders. Parker, Field & Sons, 233, High Holborn. Beilly, E. M. & Co., Oxford St. Bridesmaids' Dresses. Ahlborn, A., 74, Regent Street. Russell & Allen, 18 and 19, Old Bond Street. Brushes and Combs. Farrant, R. E., 17, Buckingham Palace Road. Metcalfe, Binglev & Co. {Speciality), 1316, Oxford St. Brussels Lace. Laugher & Cosens {Speciality), 97, Oxford Street. Lewis cfeAllenby, Regeni Street. Cabinet Makers. Nosotti 0., 397 to 399, Oxford Street. Rough & Son, 6, St. Paul's Churchyard. \\ augh cv Son, 3 and !, G-oodge Street, and 65 and 66, Totten- ham Court Road. Carpets. Marshal] & Snelgrove, 151 to I L57, Oxford Street. Nosotti, C, 397 to 399, Oxford ; Street. Watson, Bontor & Co. {Spe ciality), 35 and 36 Old Bond Street. Carpets— continued. Waugh & Son (Special it it), 3 and 4, G-oodge Street, and 65 and 66, Tottenham Court Road. Chandeliers and Gaseliers. Green, James (Glass), 62, Corn- hill. Osier (Glass), 45, Oxford Street. Phillips, W. P. & G. (Glass i, 357 to 359, Oxford Street, and 155, New Bond Street. Smith, Frank & Co. (Church), 13, Southampton St., Strand. Chatelaines. Thornhill, W., 141, New Bond Street. Chemists and Druggists. Dinneford & Co., 172, New Bond Street. Children's Hats. Brandon, 137 to 140, Oxford Street. Brown, W. C. (Speciality), 13, and 14, New Bond Street. Children's Outfitters. Bourne, Mrs. Addley, 37, Pic- cadilly, opposite St. James's Church. China. Borgen, A. & Co. (Danish), 142, New Bond Street. Green, James, 35 and 36, Upper Thames Street, and 62, Corn- hill. ilu^hes & Co., 158, Strand. Phillips, W. P. & G., 357 to 359, Oxford Street. Storey & Son, 19, King William Street, & 159, Cannon Street. Chinese Warehouse. Parmer & Rogers, 117 and 119, Regent Street. Chronometer Makers. Barrand & Lunds, 11, Cornhill. Prodsham, C. & Co., 84, Strand. LONDON. Church Furniture. Smith, Frank & Co., 13, South- ampton Street, Strand. Cigars. Wolff, Phillips & Co., 77, Re- gent Street. Clerical Robes. Smith, Frank & Co., 13, South- ampton Street, Strand. Cloaks {Speciality). Farmer & Eogers, 171 to 175, Regent Street. Jay, Regent C ire as. Lewis &Allenby, Regent Street. Clock Makers (Speciality). Barraud and Lunds, 41, Corn- hill. Frodsham, C. & Co., 84, Strand. Clocks. Barraud & Lunds {Speciality), 41, Cornhill. Frodsham, C. &Co. {Speciality), 84, Strand. Howell, James & Co., 5 to 9, Regent Street, S.W. Payne & Son (Carriage), 32, Lowndes Square. Streeter, B. W., 18, New Bond Street. Combs and Brushes (Speciality). Farrant, R. E., 17, Buckingham Palace Road. Metcalfe, Bingley & Co., 1316, Oxford Street. Commercial Offices. Herhert, Henry, 2 Charterhouse Buildings, Aldersgate. Concert Ticket Agents. Keith, Prowse & Co., 48, Cheap- side, E.C. Lacon & Oilier, 168, New Bond Street. Costumes. Ahlborn, A., 74, Regent Street, and 7 and 9, Air Street. Farmer & Rogers, 171 to 175, Regent Street. Costumes— continued. Holmes, Madame, 61, New Bond Street. Lewis & Allenby, 193 to 197, Regent Street. Marshall & Snellgrove, 151 to 157, Oxford Street. Oswin, T. & Co., 5a, Orchard Street. Paris Millinery Co., 25, Old Bond Street. Redmayne, G-onner & Co., 20, New Bond Street, W. Russell & Allen (Evening), 18 , and 19, Old Bond Street. Scott Adie (Highland), 115, Regent Street, W. Swan & Edgar, 39 to 53, Regent Street. Swears & Wells (Children's), 192, Regent Street, W. Curtains (Japanese). Pavy's Felted Fabric Co., 13 to 15, Hamsell Street, Falcon Square. Cutlery. Burton, W. S., 39, Oxford St. Mappin & Webb, 76 to 78, Oxford Street. Rodgers & Sons (Brooks, Lon- don Agent), 16, Vere Street, Oxford Street. Thornhill, W. {Speciality), 144, New Bond Street. Danish Goods. Borgen, A. & Co., 142, New Bond Street. Decorators. Nosotti, C, 397 to 399, Oxford Street. Rough & Son, 6, St. Paul's Churchyard. Waugh & Son, 65 and 66, Tot- tenham Court Road. Designers in Metals. Smith, Frank & Co., 13, South- ampton Street, Strand. Despatch Boxes. Asprey & Son, 166, Bond Street . 6 LONDON. Diamond Merchants. Barker, W., 164, New Bond St. Metcalf & Co., 19, Cockspur Street, Pall Mall. Streeter, E. W., 18, New Bond Street. Dolls. Payne, W. & Son, 32, Lowndes Street, Belgrave Square. Drapers. Dickins, C. & H. & Jones, 232 and 231, Begent Street. Farmer & Bogers, 171 to 175, Begent Street. Howell, James H a> "^ 2 j-i o o3 2-s sl§ 13 jrj -H M »H P)P=i § JD" SO* S a) 5-1 5-1 O ^^ 3 «-r! fq So-' 2 F^^ £3 g§; s£ 03 *. , Pi O pj ' 1=1 ^1$ r l fill bioT IC !» ft o.Sj^s ! ^lll o'-d o >•» So © _£* rrf © p © .■» - 03 p- h. r-j | <*> | * | p, P) ^ § CD~r5' rt ^ ft.-S Pl^ Pi J t>0 ,£2 ^ Cfi " J rj rrt 1 ^ £-£ S O © "O ; !aX%OO^J r ) £ — Pi 03 ^ « r^ ' I q m p^g °. pi 03 J O =3 Q,cS P 1 " B o « E-t 22 tS bSo .^-SttsSg^sggggt:-^^ i.^.a gjs ^3 o^ m £.sp.s & & & * a a as a TRAVEL TALK. ^ 1 % "e . « 2 '5 Die Halfte. Das Drittel. Das Viertel. Das Fiinftel. Das Sechstel, Die Ta Sonntag. Montag. Dienstag. Mittwoch. Donnerstag. Freitag. Sonnabend. Die J Der Fruhling Der Sommer. Der Herbst. Der Winter. Di HHHHH aJ^H^hfeai to a: ■< ? t-jpng^^n^OcoOt^P TRAVEL TALK. ~ ? ' n'O 3 •; • +5 3 TJ "2 .2 ca N a i-ssssag^s. 'S.S'g&i'gaa^ii^i-s'gS'Sg ills o S .2 .2 .2 53 S S c d s ; l!=i2a5 i:| 2o3 rt ^rt*- G 2 rtcCi:| .2 s.2 « JA £ VOCABULABY OF Hit If Iff Ilf si 1 ii| i , III I gl< Jiff! p^^^^ppppppppp^pppq^po Pi =■ £?<*-*' 'S S -2 H .2 .5 .£ S c S 5 £ .2§SrtSS3Srtl.2Jfe2.2S3S;i3'gg'3i=i KWCWQWKWiaSWa! PPPPPPPPfL,PPWPPPWO«WwW o<;»-«;«:-»;^£>p q qo> q fc III 5§w»* & * s sm ;.g g : ° 1 a 1 s -b «■ I .2=2 i's J J J 2 £ 5< £ o • I ^ '8 .fe cj "S '3 £ S P x x =£ £ •? ? 5 .2 .S .2 .2 .2 .= •= .2 .2 .5 .2 .2 £ = .2 ?: ^ 2 .2 .2 S .2 .2 .2 .2 .2 .2 .2 .2 .2 £ £ TRAVEL TALK. 5= *§ 2 ft k£ ft'3 ■5 s ti £ ^ .S'Sc.g « £ 3 | is sill 1* -IIS ill cog S **' o IS q C oj «2 5 — o— ' tj ^ 1 1 1 8 § ~ ° h 111 !1 1 1 1 g "i S -a if si£|f 1i!'p|ill ■S.s S 11.2 5 § Is! 59 ^l^fSftg ' J§ £ 2 .g [• £ bo -2 ~ 3 5 JS *j ft? S "3 a lit 3 o ~ o <» 8f gsi* ^ss* ps sP^-*^ ^!*!1 illil ^P'li 1 i^iUgPiiiiiii t?^ ft wP&£? £ ft$ toft^W BO^ «33 pqo 2 ■ S M ™ c 1 2 ~ 2 ** I * ^ s s I 2|m a •5la- s o fl =S3! ** S^-^Sifl^ else's ^^cSrt! 00- HW StnfH m CKiEr-d S'^.S 2 h- £ _,_ .I'a.'iiS TRAVEL TALK. H a d '£ 2 .^ "£ 5 c 5 ^"^ *3»& B g ^ c p £ •- a ^2 ~,*>& •So"' 3 mil* 9 s 21 m S §3 Si a?" -^ «^S d "S.2.3 .3.2.2 m W 3 3 |_. S3 £ « gS » £.2-3 bc5 °rf © 7* *£ 2.2 3 itllpfipiit a p «s -? Www 1°^ 2.2 £,2.3 Sci-g ° s 1 .2 - .2 .a 5 TBAVEL TALK. "HI S o |o 1'H 111 ^ *«fi I. *s * a a s *" g ? §. 1 "I S 1 « l-s »§ . c^?^§ c g g 3 Sg"3 S » -a s* g.s ^ A g^ £0 -g &D^l tO ^ IS-s .1 &«f.ss i§l w^^ WI^W^WW g^* ,ga gsl-g-3 *!'i3 S * aSSjgjs * *'I3 2-.H gig's » ^ =■£ ' LONDON. 11 ladies' and Children's Hats— continued. Stewart, Miss, 306, Regent Street. Ladies' Riding Habits. Besch, F. & Co., 10 and 11, Hanover Street. Hobson, G., 118, Regent Street, and 57, Lombard Street. Stovel , Oxford Street. Persian Carpets (Specialities). Watson, Bontor & Co., 35 and 36, Old Bond Street. Waugh and Son, 65 and 66, Tottenham Court Eoad. Pharmaceutical Chemists. Dinneford & Co., 172, NewBond Street. Philosophical Instrument Makers. Collins, C, corner of Gt. Port- land and Weymouth Streets. Dollond & Co., 1, Ludgate Hill, corner of St. Paul's Church- yard. Photographers. Elliott & Fry, 55, Baker Street, W. Window & Grove, 63a, Baker Street, Portman Square. Pictures. Borgen, A. & Co. (Danish), 142, New Bond Street, W. Elliott and Frv, 55, Baker Street, W. LONDON. 13 Pictures— continued. Window & Grove, 63«, Baker Street, Portman Square. Pistols. Parker, Field and Sons, 233, High Holborn, W.C. Eeilly, E. M. & Co., Oxford Street, London. Plate Chests. Mappin & Webb, Mansion House Buildings, an d 76, 77 and 78, Oxford Street. Poplins (Irish). Inglis and Tinckler (SjieciaJity), 147, Regent Street, W. Porcelain. Borgen, A. & Co. (Danish), 142, New Bond Street. Green, James, 35 and 36, Upper Thames Street. Phillips, W. P. and G., 357 to 359, Oxford Street. Storey and Son, 19, King Wil- liam Street, and 159, Cannon Street. Portable Stoves. Williams & Bach, 92, New Bond Street. Portmanteaus. Asprey & Son, 166, Bond Street, and 22, Albemarle Street. Barrett, B., Bros., 181, Oxford Street, W. Harrow & Son, 38, Bond St. Printers. Collingridge, W. H. and L., 117 to 120, Aldersgate Street. Publications. Herbert's Illustrated Guide to London, 2, Charterhouse Buildings, Aldersgate Street. Herbert's Metropolitan Cab Fares, and Pocket Trade Directory, 2, Charterhouse Buildings, Aldersgate Street. The Buyers' Guide. The Hotels of Europe. Publishers. Collingridge, W. H. and L., 117 to 120, Aldersgate Street. Hatchards, 187, Piccadilly, W. Herbert, Henry, 2, Charter- house Buildings, Aldersgate Street. Longmans, Paternoster Row. Murray, Albemarle Street. Publishers (Photographic). Elliott and Fry, 55, Baker Street, Portman Square. Window and Grove, 63a, Baker Street, Portman Square. Riding Habit Makers. Besch, F. & Co., 10 and 11, Hanover Street, Hanover Square. Hobson, G., 148, Regent Street, W., and 57, Lombard Street. Stovel & Grant, 23, Conduit Street, W. Rifles. Reilly, E. M. & Co., Oxford Street, London. Parker, Field & Sons, 233, High Holborn. Robe Makers. Smith, Frank & Co. (Church, State, and Law), 13, South- ampton Street, Strand. Saddlers. Wilkinson & Kidd, 5, Hanover Square. Scotch Dresses. Davis and Goodman, 95, Oxford Street, Scott Adie, 115, Regent Street, W. Scotch Plaid Warehouse. Scott Adie, 115, Regent Street. Sealskin Jackets. Back, W. & Co., 241, Regent Street. Lillicrap, W. P., 27, Davies Street, Berkeley Square. Williams, W. G, 102, Regent Street, W. 14 LONDON. Second-hand Books. Bumpus, J., 158, Oxford Stre t. Wolff, Phillips &Co., 77, Eegent Street. Sewing Machines. Wanzer Sewing Machine Co., 4, Great Portland Street, W. Shawls. Farmer & Rogers (Indian and General) [Speciality), 171, 173, and 175, Rege t Street, and 117 and 119, Regent Street. Lewis and Allenby, 193 to 197, Regent Street. Marshall and Snelgrove, 151 to 157, Oxford Street. Swan & Edgar, 9 to 11, Picca- dilly, and 39 to 53, Regent Street. Shirt Makers. Christian & Rathbone, 32, Wig- more Street, W. Painter, W. & Co., 27, Fleet Street. Sampsons', 130, Oxford Street. Swears & Wells (Juvenile), 192, Regent Street, W. Tighe, C, 42, Lombard Street. Wheeler & Co., 1G and 17, Poultry. Shoes. Lovelace, J., 11, Tichborne Street, and 6, Sherwood St. Shooting Boots, Cording, J. C, 231, Strand. Silk Hosiery. Christian and Rathbone, 32, Wigmore Street, Cavendish Square. S\ve;irs & Wells (Ladies' and Childrens), 192, Regent St., W. Silk Mercers. Ahlborn, A., 71, Regent Street, and 7 and 9, Air Street. Pickins, C. Sc II. & Jones, 232 and 234, Regent Street. Silk Mercers— continued. Farmer & Rogers, 171 to 171, Regent Street. Howell, James & Co., 5, 7, and 9, Regent Street, Pall Mall. Howitt & Co., 226 to 230, High Holborn. Lewis & Allenby, 193 to 197, Regent Street. Marshall & Snelgrove, 151 to 157, Oxford Street. Oswin, T. & Co., {Speciality), 5a, Orchard Street. Redmayne, Gonner & Co., 20, New Bond Street. Russell & Allen, 18 and 19, Old Bond Street. Swan & Edgar, 39 to 53, Regent Street. Silversmiths. Barker, W., 164, New Bond Street. Howell, James & Co., 5, 7, and 9, Regent Street. Mappin &Webb, Mansion House Buildings, City, and 76, 77, and 78, Oxford Street, West End. Metcalf & Co., 19, Cockspur Street. Streeter, E. W., 18, New Bond Street. Thornhill, W., 144, New Bond Street. Spectacles and Eye-Glasses. Collins, C, corner of Gt. Port- land and Weymouth Streets. Dollond & Co., l,Ludgate Hill. Steward, J. H., 406, Strand, W.C. Spirit Merchants. Leech, G. E. & Co. 6, Ingram Court, Fenchurch Street. F arrant, R. E., 17, Bucking- ham Palace Road, S.W. Metcalfe, Bin-Icy & Co. (Sped- ality), 131, Oxford Street. LONDON. 15 Steam Ship Agents. Smalpage & Son ("Cunard" and "White Star" lines), 41 and 43, Maddox Street, Bond Street. Stoves (Portable). Williams & Bach, 92, New Bond Street, W. Straw Hats. Brown, W. C, 13 and 14, New Bond Street. Pa-is Millinery Co., 25, Old Bond Street. Stewart, Miss, 306, Begent Street, W. Surveying and Mathematical Instruments. Dollond & Co., 1, Lndgate Hill. Table Cutlery. Burton, W. S., 39, Oxford Street. Mappin &Webb, Mansion House Buildings, Citv, and 76, 77, and 78, Oxford Street, West End. Bodgers & Sons (Brooks, Lon- don Agent), 16, Vere Street, Oxford Street. Thornhill, W. {Speciality), 144, New Bond Street, London. Table Decorations. Green, James, 35 and 36, Upper Thames Street. Osier, Show Booms, 45, Oxford Street. Phillips, W. P. & G., 357 to 359, Oxford Street. Storey & Son, 19, King William Street, E.C. Table Glass. Green, James, 35 and 36, Upper Thames Street. Osier, Show Booms, 45, Oxford Street. Phillips, W. P. & G., 357 to 359, Oxford Street. Storey & Son. 19, King William Street, E.G. Tailors. Baynes & Holmes, 10, Cork Street, W. (The most eco- nomical tailors in London). Cooper & Timewell, 8, Sackville Street, Piccadilly. Davies, James (practical and reasonable), 340, Oxford St. Davis & Goodman (Juvenile), 95, Oxford Street, W. Edwards, Joel & Sons, 9, Han- over Street, Hanover Square. Hobson, G., 148, Begent St., W. Kerslake, J., & Co., 12, Hanover Street, Hanover Square. Parfitt, Koberts & Parfitt, 75, Jermyn Street, St. James's. Pugh, C. H, 319, Begent St., (reasonable and practical — speciality in American trade). Smalpage & Son, 41 and 43, Maddox Street. Stovel & Grant, 23, Conduit Street. Vaughan & Humphreys, 3, Hay- market Tailors' Drapers. Kennerley & Co., 7, Saville Bow, Burlington Gardens. Theatre Tickets. Keith, Prowse & Co., 48, Cheap- side. Lacon & Oilier, 168, New Bond Street, W. Tobacco (American). Wolff, Phillips & Co., 77, Begent Street, W. Toys. Payne & Son, 32, Lowndes . Street, Belgrave Square. Travelling Bags. Asprey & Son (Speciality), 166, Bond Street. Brooks, 16, Vere Street, W. F arrant, B.E., 17, Buckingham Palace Boad. Howell, James & Co., 5, 7, and 9, Begent Street. Mappin&Webb, Mansion House Buildings, City, and 76, 77 and 78, Oxford Street, W. 16 LONDON. Travelling Bags— continued. Metcalf & Co., 19, Cockspur Street, Pall Mall. Parkins & Grotto, 24 to 28, Ox- ford Street. ThornhiU, W., 144, New Bond Street, W. Trunks. Barrett, B., Brothers, 181, Oxford Street, W. Turkey Carpets. Watson, Bontor & Co., 35 and 36, Old Bond Street. Waugk & Son, 3 and 4, Goodge Street, Tottenham Court Road. Umbrellas. F arrant, R. E ., 17, Buckingham Palace Road, S.W., and also at Leeds, Manchester, and Oxford. Uniforms (Diplomatic and Consular). Kerslake, J. & Co., 12, Han- over Street, Hanover Square. Upholsterers. Nosotti, C, 397, 398, 399, 399a, Oxford Street. Pavy's Felted Fabric Co., 13 to 15, Hamsell Street, Falcon Square. Rough & Son, 0, St. Paul's Churchyard. Waugh & Son, 65 and 00, Tottenham Court Road. Wanzer Sewing Machines. Wanzer Sewing Machine Co., 4, Great Portland Street, W. Watches. Barker, W., 104, New Bond Street. Barraud & Lunds, 41, Cornhill. E.C. Frodsham, C. & Co., 84, Strand, London. Howell, James & Co., 5, 7, and 9, Regent Street, Pall Mall. Metcalf & Co., 19, Cockspur Street, Pall Mall. Streeter, E. W., 18, New Bond Street, W. Watch Makers {Speciality). Barraud & Lunds, 41, Cornhill E.C. Frodsham, C. & Co., 84, Strand. E.C. Waterproofs. Cording, J. C. (George Wilson), 231, Strand, near Temple Bar. Wedding Trousseaux. Bourne, Mrs. Addley, 37, Pic- cadilly. Wine Merchants. Leech, G. E. & Co., 0, Ingram Court, Fenchurch Sti-eet. Wood Engravers. Griffiths, J. C. & Co., 29, Pater- noster Row. Nicholls, J. & G. & Co., Al- dine Chambers, Paternoster Row. Watson, W. J., Whitefriars St. Woollen Merchants. Kcnnerley ,& Co., 7, Saville Row, Burlington Gardens. Zoological Lamps. Williams &: Bach, 92, New Bond SI roe t, W. AMERICAN GUIDE TO EUEOPE, 1874. "AMERICAN GUIDE TO EUROPE, BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED. BEING A GUIDE THROUGH ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, THE NETHER- LANDS, NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN GERMANY, AUSTRIA, SWITZERLAND, ITALY, TYROL, SPAIN, PORTUGAL, RUSSIA, DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN ; CONTAINING THE LATEST AND BEST MAP OF EUROPE, AND MANY OTHER MAPS, WITH PLANS OF 27 OP THE PRINCIPAL CITIES, AND MANY ENGRAVINGS. WITH A TRAVELLER'S CALENDAR AND A MANUAL OP CONVERSATION IN ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND ITALIAN; ENGRAVINGS OF PROMINENT PLACES, AND OF THE COINS OF THE PRINCIPAL COUNTRIES, GIVING THEIR VALUE IN AMERICAN AND ENGLISH MONEY. EDITION OF 1874. PHILADELPHIA & NEW YOR J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO. LONDON : Thos. Cook & Son (Excursionists), and Hodder and Stoughton. Bradshaw's Office; Murray's; Stanford's; American Register. paris : — american register : galignani and co. : martinet. leipsic : — a. dure. vienna : gerold and co. frankfort-on- the-maine : — c. jugel ; j. barr. florence : e. goodman. venice: munster and co. rome: — piale. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by London and New York Publishing Company, Limited, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. {Entered at. Stationers' 1 Hall.) m PEEFAOE. ~~ f^v'l HE author of this Guide has sought to compile a portable Handbook giving all necessary information to American and English travellers, in one volume. ^^^3V^M It is arranged to take in the maximum of what is best worth seeing with the minimum of travel, and thus save the tourist both money and time. It is utterly impossible to travel in Europe without a Guide-book, and the great objection there is to the carrying of Guides in several volumes, make us think a work, which gives all the necessary practical information as to routes, conveyances, line of rail, hotels, etc., and at the same time serves the purpose of a series of local guides, will prove acceptable and valuable. With very few exceptions the editor travelled last summer over the routes herein described, and gives results of his personal researches, and the proof sheets have been revised by Messrs. Cook and Son's manager, who has travelled over the routes described many times for these eminent excursionists. Among the new and attractive features of our Guide are engravings of the coins of the principal countries, giving their value in American and English money ; this will be greatly appreciated by tourists who are unacquainted with foreign money. As the American tourist does the Continent in a few months, the editor has endeavoured to give reliable, concise, and important information on all objects which, by , almost unanimous consent, are particularly worth a visit— giving fewer facts on matters of secondary interest. The editor can assure travellers that this Guide has been written from later data than any yet published, and that they will find it one of the best Guides in English in one volume: other American Guides having been written from five to twelve years ago. The editor has given facts, leaving the tourists to form their own judgments. We have considered the wants of the pedestrian, and told him where it will pay him well to walk, and where he cannot afford to do it. This is quite a new feature not existing in the other European Guides for Americans, Ti PHEFA CM. and it has been carefully written. The author has tried most of the pedestrian tours that he recommends, as well as some that he advises the reader not to attempt. It is impossible for a Guide to be entirely free from errors, new routes of travel are being opened, new rail- ways, new hotels, new lines of steamers being started ; but in point of accuracy it will compare with, if not excel, similar works. The large map of Europe is the latest and best yet pub- lished. The author desires to express his thanks to the publishers of the following works : Appleton's, Harper's, Baedeker's, and Murray's Guides, and Marsh's American Guide to London. As it is impossible in the text to always mention whence extracts have been made, we name the above works which have been used. This is men- tioned so that-editors of the above cannot make tfee charge of borrowing without acknowledgment. Tourists should beware of hotels and shops that do not pay their bills promptly, especially their advertising accounts. A star,* or asterisk, against the name of a hotel or establishment, shows that a full account of it is in our advertising pages. Tourists may rest assured that none but first-class hotels and houses are inserted. They may not in all cases be the largest, but possess some advantage, either in location or first-class accommodation, with moderate charges. An unique feature of this Guide is, the full and specific information for the benefit of those who wish to travel as cheaply as possible, without sacrifice of real comfort. We would advise a little preparatory studying of archi- tecture, and especially Gothic architecture. The tourist should know the difference between a groin and a gable. The great cathedrals are very interesting, but the tourist cannot thoroughly appreciate them unless he knows the alphabet of Gothic. Take note of the meals you have, and see that no others are charged in the hotel bill. Look at your bill some time before your departure. Extras, lunches, &c, are charged at a high rate. If you visit a place merely for a day, not intending to spend the night, don't go to a hotel ; leave your baggage at the station, at the cloak or parcel room. Candles are usually a separate charge. Many tourists, familiar with this trick, take the first bougie (candle) with them, and let it do service for successive nights. Soap is also extra ; take it with you, or you will have to pay hotel prices for it. PREFACE. vii Those desiring to save expenses can purchase a rubber cushion for six shillings, which makes a third class ■car almost as pleasant as the second class. In travelling by rail, always get a return ticket, if you are coming back the same way within the time allowed for such tickets ; the saving is considerable. Tor the railway time tables in Great Britain you will want Bradshaw's Railway Guide, 6d., and when you go to the Continent his " Continental Railway Guide" at 3s. 6d. We have always depended on Bradshaw, and never found many errors. A shilling or franc slipped into the hands of the guard (conductor) or porters, will induce them to secure you a good seat in the train or a compartment to yourselves. In diligences the seats in the coupe are to be preferred. Guides, commissionaires, and the entire herd of pro- fessional cicerones are to be avoided, if you can possibly get on without them. If you must have one get one from a respectable hotel. Never take one with you when you are shopping, especially not into the shop, as the dealer adds to your bill and pays him a commission. In Germany get rid of your local small change, or else you might as well throw it away, as Tom Hood advised. Conform to the local customs and usages, and you will be served at established rates. If you insist that foreigners shall try and do things for you in the Yankee fashion, you will have to pay well for it. In Home do as the Romans do, and you will pay only what the Romans pay. Some knowledge of French or German is very useful, but tourists can make their way everywhere with English. Lay out your whole route before leaving home, deciding upon your entire line of travel, and the time you will spend at each point. Common sense, courtesy, and the Christian graces, are good virtues to have on shipboard. Do not indulge in sea-sickness ; fight manfully against it, keep on deck as much as possible ; lie there, well wrapped, in preference to the close air of your state room. Avoid the upright posture. A person lying down with his head towards the bow is, during the descent of a ship, in a position of one descending backwards in a swing, in which case the pressure by the blood will be towards the feet, and there- fore relief, rather than inconvenience, will be experienced. Lie down with the head to the bow. This position should be taken before the ship begins to move — closing the eyes shuts out the confusion of surrounding objects. viii PREFACE. Cheap cablegrams, announcing the safe arrival of pas- sengers in Europe, can be sent for about hco dollars (eight shillings) by making arrangements with, the agent at the wharf just before sailing. Messrs. Thos. Cook, and Son have recently removed their tourist agency to their large and convenient quarters in Fleet Street, opposite their former offices. They have a reading-room, with every facility for furnishing informa- tion concerning their extensive system of excursion tickets, hotel expenses, etc. All mistakes or omissions noticed by tourists may be transmitted to " Editor, American Guide to Europe," care of his Publishers, for which he will be extremely thankful. It is much more pleasant and economical to travel in a party of four; it costs but a trifle more if four hire a carriage, or fee a custodian. Never ask a cabman " how much," but look at the table of fares and give him his right fare. If you are in doubt as to the distance offer him a trifle more, or tell him to summons you, which he wont do, although he will insist he will, or ask the nearest policeman. It takes about 7i minutes to travel 1 mile. Where cabs are cheap, and you are a stranger and pressed for time, it is a matter of policy to employ them. At many of the shops in Great Britain and the Continent, insist on having a discount for cash, as it is often customary. GENERAL PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. THE PASSAGE FROM AMERICA. | HERE are about twelve lines of steamers, some of the finest vessels afloat, running regularly between America and Europe. The Cunard steamers leave every Wednesday for Liverpool and Queenstown. First cabin, 130 dollars ; second cabin, 80 dollars gold. They are safe, comfortable, seaworthy, and are under command of the best seamen in the world. They have carried hundreds of thousands of passengers and have never lost a life. The Wliite Star line bears an excellent reputation for comfort, convenience, and rapidity of transit, "Safety, speed, and comfort," being their motto. The magnificent state-rooms, saloons, bath-rooms, &c, are amidships, where the least motion is felt, and their ventilation is almost perfect. They sail on the Saturday. Fares, first cabin, 80 dollars gold ; steerage, 30 dollars currency. J. H. Sparks, Esq., is the manager of the New York office, 19, Broadway. Smallpage and Sons, 41 and 43, Maddox Street, are the London West End agents for Cunard and White Star lines. The Inman vessels leave New York every Saturday for Liver- pool and Queenstown. First cabin, 90 dollars gold. The North German steamers leave New York every Saturday for Southampton and Bremen. Fore or first cabin, 120 dollars ; second, 72 dollars gold. Hamburg steam vessels leave New York every Tuesday for Plymouth, Cherbourg, and Hamburgh. First cabin, 140 dollars ; second cabin, 75 dollars gold. The Guion steamers leave New York every Wednesday for Queens- town and Liverpool. Price of passage in first cabin, 80 dollars gold ; steerage, 30 dollars currency. The New French line of steamers sail direct from New York to Havre and Brest every other Saturday. The agent in New "i'ork is Geo. Mackenzie, Esq., 68, Broadway, and Lo. Herbertt Kane and Co., 33, Eue du Quatre Septembre, Paris. The National line of vessels sail weekly from New York to Liverpool, and from Liverpool to New York. It is composed of some of the largest, most elegant, and powerful steamers afloat. Offices, 69, Broadway, New York ; 21 and 23, Water Street, Liverpool ; John Arthur and Co., 10, Rue Castiglione, Paris. x PASSPORTS. The London and New York line boats start for London direct from New York twice a month. Fares, 75 dollars, 65 dollars, and 30 dollars in currency. The boats of the Anchor line leave for Londonderry and Glasgow every Wednesday and Saturday. Fares, first cabin, 75 or 65 dollars ; steerage, 23 dollars currency. The Allan steamers start every Saturday from Quebec, but from 1st November to 1st April from Portland. Fares 80 and 70 dollars gold. This company has also a communication, at stated intervals, between Baltimore and Liverpool. In addition there is passage twice a month from New Orleans to Hamburgh by vessels of the Hamburgh Company, and from Baltimore to Southampton, or New Orleans to Bremen, by the North German Lloyd's Company. As far as the vessels of the different lines are concerned, there is little to be said in the way of advice ; in all the comfort of the pas- senger is studiously cared for : convenience of departure, and the desired goal are the things to consider. A few hints, however, may be useful. Choose if possible a cabin amidships, as this lessens the disagreeable sensation of motion, which to travellers liable to sea- sickness is a great consideration. Always provide yourself with a comfortable rocking or lounging chair for. use on deck. Of dress it is perhaps unnecessary to speak ; bxit we may remark that what would be suitable and proper on shore may be absurd at sea — the easier the costume the better. In respect of convenience, as the bulkier luggage will, of course, be stowed away in the hold, it is well to place such articles as are needed for actual use in one or two small valises, which may be kept in the cabin. Some people think those boats more comfortable which have the state-rooms on the main deck ; this is a matter of taste, though no doubt there is the advantage of fresher air. From May to October railway and steam vessel companies offer travellers unusual advantages, both with regard to fares and special trains. This time of year is therefore the best to select for making a tour economical. PASSPORTS. ^HOULD the traveller intend to visit Russia, Portugal, or " France, a passport will be absolutely essential: in the last-named country it is true a declaration to the police may suffice, but it is impossible to say when this order may be revoked. Under any circumstances, and in any foreign country, a passport will often prove of use ; it is in itself a letter of introduction to many exhibitions, &c. ; and in the event of accident an identification of the bearer. And since it is so cheap and so easily procured, it is better to forestal difficulties by obtaining one. The mode of procedure is this : a letter should be addressed to A. C. Willinarth, United States Passport Agent, 41, Chambers Street, New York, or Secretary of State, Washington, requesting a passport and enclosing the following statistics : — PASSPORTS. xi Yours, (Name.) Age Stature Forehead (high or low) Eyes (colour) Nose (large or small) Mouth (do.) Chin (round or long) Hair (colour^ Complexion (florid or sallow) Face (oval or long) These must be rilled up as the subject demands.) As proofs of citizenship, the following must be enclosed, having been previously sworn to before a justice of the peace or notary public. State of County of.. I, , do swear that I was born in on or about the day of , that I am a ( naturalized) and loyal citizen of the United States, and am about to travel abroad. 77. S. Int. Revenue Stamp. 5 cents. Sworn to before me, this - day of , 187—, Justice of the Peace or Notary Public. State of...., County of . I, , do swear that I am acquainted with the above- named -, and with the facts above stated by him, and that the same are true to the best of my knowledge and belief. Sworn to before me, this ) day of , 186—, \ Justice of the Peace or Notary Public. 77. S. Rev. Stamp. It will also be necessary to enclose the following oath of allegiance, having been previously sworn to in the same manner as the above : I, , of , do solemnly swear that I will support, protect, and defend the Constitution and Government of the United States against all enemies, whether domestic or foreign, and that I will bear true faith, allegiance, and loyalty to the same, xii EXPANSES. any ordinance, resolution, or law of any State, Convention, or Legis- lature to the contrary notwithstanding ; and, farther, that I do this with a full determination, pledge, and purpose, "without any mental reservation or evasion whatsoever ; and, farther, that I will well and faithfully perform all the duties which may he required of me hy law : So help me God. U. S. Eev. Stamp. Sworn to and subscribed before me, ) this day of , 187—, } Justice of the Peace or Notary Public. One passport will suffice for husband, wife, and children under age ; all other members of the party must have separate ones. The rela- tionship of all the members must be distinctly stated in the applica- tion. After the first outlay, the only thing to be done is to mind that on reaching any country, and quitting it, the visa of the American Minister or Consul, and of the Minister of the country to be visited, is attached to the document. EXPENSES. yT is, of course, impossible to lay down any definite rule of N ; expenditure ; it must depend on the means and inclination : of the. traveller. Those, however, who wish to travel at moderate charges may do so by a little management. Hotel charges on the Continent and in Scotland are rather higher than in England ; but it may be laid down as a general rule, that at a good hotel accommodation may be had for from 3 to 4 dollars a day per head, if a sitting-room is not required ; less noted hostelries charge less, but for this a man may stay at the Langham in London. The living is proportionately moderate — a decent dinner, without liquor, may be had in a London hotel for about a dollar and a half; on the Continent, the table d'hote system lessens the expense. Eailway travelling is more expensive in Great Britain than on the Continent ; it may be calculated that the cost, first class, will be about 7 dollars a day in the former, and 6 in the latter. But there is no necessity to avoid the second or third class carriages ; they are now frequently used by people of position, and the expense may thus be seriously diminished. A fair average price for all expenses would be one pound (4.84 gold) per day. KOUTES. •S>$*4rfT is essential for the full enjoyment of your trip that you M$lVl> sncm ld ma ke up your mind as to the time you will devote to j^'ft^ it, and then arrange your routes in accordance therewith. y^S^ Having matured your plan adhere to it. "We do not say that you should allot so many hours, or so many minutes to see each place you visit, or to get over so many miles in a given period of m BAGGAGE. xiii time. That would be wearisome and hateful in the extreme, penance rather than pleasure, and would keep your mind chained to the mere business of coming and going, leaving it no leisure for enjoy- ment or quiet observation. But we would strongly impress upon you the necessity of a reasonably thorough understanding of where you are going to, and what you are going to see, to prevent loss of time and that continual wavering in opinion and altering of inten- tion under chance directed influences by which many a holiday tour is deprived of more than half its enjoyment. BAGGAGE. ^AKE with you as little as possible but provide suitable clothing ' of a comfortable kind, and pack in two or three small port- manteaus rather than in one large one. Small portmanteaus — say about two feet long and ten inches high, can be put away in your berth at sea, or under the seat of your railway carriage ashore, and be always to hand, whereas a large one would be at the mercy of guards and porters, or packed away where it would be often troublesome to yourself and others to get at. The amount of personal luggage allowed by the steam-packet companies is limited to twenty feet and only a certain weight is allowed by rails, every additional pound or two having generally to be paid extra for. The American will find one very disagreeable change in respect to luggage when travelling on the railways of Great Britain. and Ireland. He cannot as at home dismiss all thoughts of luggage from his mind and be sure of finding it duly placed in the hotel at the end of each journey. On the contrary it will be his business to see it properly labelled and directed, to see that it is put into the luggage van at starting and removed from it on stopping, and often to escort it to the vehicle which conveys him to his hotel. COURIEKS. SERVANTS who do not speak the language of the country you ' ■ are in will be a constant source of trouble and annoyance to ( you. If a servant is required select one who belongs to the country. A courier is a costly luxury, but he is a luxury and adds greatly to the ease and enjoyment of your tour. He will revise your bills, secure you proper hotel accommodation, take railway tickets, and attend to a hundred little minor details, all of which detract from the pleasures of travelling in a greater or less degree. It will be his duty to take all the responsibility and trouble of securing conveyances, packing and unpacking, cleaning and brush- ing clothes, &c. His wages commonly average from eight to ten pounds (English) a month. It will at once be apparent that opportunities and contemplations are here afforded which render honesty a most important quality in a courier, and therefore due care should be exercised and unusually strict enquiries instituted by those who employ them. There are several agencies in London and New York where couriers and travelling seivanta may be obtained. PEDESTRIAN TOURS. PEDESTKIAX TOURS. % NDEB, this head we cannot do better than quote the opinions of one who has made many excursions afoot and is an excellent practical authority. He says, " Pedestrian tourists often make one grand mis- take. They fancy they must always he walking. That they must walk over uninteresting as well as interesting ground. The greatest wisdom in pedestrian excursions is exhibited injudiciously making U6e of the railway, boat or diligence. Rise early, walk an hour or two before breakfast ; rest an hour and a half, and if the road offers no attractions take the diligence, etc. Have lunch about 11, rest till 12.30, and then keep on till 4 or 5. Take as little luggage with you as possible. A knapsack with broad shoulder straps that will hold 2 white shirts and 1 flannel one, 4 pairs of socks, 1 pair of drawers, slippers, 4 pocket hand- kerchiefs, and a change of clothes is amply sufficient. Above all things keep your hands free. No rug strapped up to carry. Let your boots be easy, not too wide nor too thick. If you carry a stick, have one with a curved handle, it will be useful in climb- ing. If your feet become tender rub them with brandy, and pour half a glass of brandy into your shoes before putting them on. If you should have a blister, draw a needle and worsted carefully through it before going to bed, and if in Germany, anoint it with, a little deer fat (Hirsch Talg), which you can get at any apothe- cary's for a couple of half -pence, and will find invaluable. Don't drink too much water. The difference in various places is often very great, and the mixture is apt to disagree. Always have a flask of cognac by you. Paper, pen, ink, and soap especially ought to be included in the equipment. The socks ought to to be woollen ones, cotton cuts the feet too much. A very con- venient and useful article is that which the Germans call a " Kittel," "Reise Eattel,'' "or travelling blouse," worn over the coat, to protect it from the dust and yourself from the sun. They can be bought in every German town, as well as the knapsack, at a much cheaper rate and better than in England. The weight of the knapsack should not exceed 14 to 16 pounds. Take an umbrella, both for sunshine and storm, which can be strapped on to the knapsack. Provide yourself with divers boxes of fusees, if you are a smoker, and do not forget a few rhubarb pills in case of constipation, and some tincture of opium (tinctura opii simplex) against diarrhoea. If travelling in a party, it is always advisable to s«nd one or two on ahead when approaching night quarters to make arrange- ments with the inn keeper. A party is always better attended to thaji a single person, and the road is always more cheerful ; but the best number is three. For if two quarrel there is always one to make it up or turn to. I have known two friends quarrel and travel for three days together, sulking and not speaking to each other. LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS. xv LANGUAGE. wO be able to speak the language of any country you visit is of course a great advantage, which will save money, and protect } j 'ou from many of the occasional minor inconveni- ences and annoyances to which travelling in foreign lands subjects us all, more or less ; but one need not keep at home through fear of what may arise from this species of ignorance. There are English speaking people to be found in most of the places you will visit, English servants, guides, couriers, &c, and often English land- lords in the hotels. CUSTOMS. tflTTLE real trouble will be experienced at the Custom House by ordinary travellers. The search is often a matter of form, and a declaration of anything which may be liable to duty will prevent any unpleasantness, or rum- maging of the luggage. Any traveller may carry sufficient wine, spirits, or tobacco, for his own immediate use ; larger quan- tities must be paid for at the Government rates. American or other reprints of English books — such as the Tauchnitz edition — are rigorously stopped in Great Britain. In France, tobacco is most sought for, the manufacture being a Government monopoly. But, as a rule, frankness and civility to the officials will free the traveller from any discomfort on this score. The chief articles charged with duty, and the sums payable, are — s. d. Tea per lb. 6 Coffee per cwt. 14 Cocoa per lb. 1 Spirits — brandy, Geneva, rum pergall.10 5 Spirits — rum from British Colony per gall. 10 2 Wine containing less than 26 degrees spirits per gall. 1 O "Wine containing 26, and less than 42 degrees per gall. 2 6 Tobacco, unmanufactured per lb. 3 2 Cigars per lb. 6 O Reprints of English books are liable to confiscation. Gentlemen importing cigars into England for their own use will not be permitted to pass through the customs more than one pound free of duty ; and although the manufactured tobacco made in the United States is infinitely preferable to most that is sold in English towns, it scarcely pays to import American tobacco for personal use. The Return Home. — Americans, who leave this country for the first time, may not be aware that, on reaching an American port, every passenger is required to state truthfully the number of separate pieces of luggage he has with him, and the contents of each, and also what articles he has upon his person. The blank xvi THE RETURN HOME. form on which these statements are to he made can he procured from the captain. The articles which pass free of duty are, — wearing apparel in actual use, trunks, &c, stationery, one watch for each person, personal jewellery, hooks taken for reading on the passage — they must he few, anything that may he fairly claimed under the head of personal effects, including tools of trade, house- hold effects, unless they are new, and hooks for professional use. The columns headed "appraisement" are left hlank. Legal penalties and the confiscation of the haggage will he tolerahly sure to follow any attempt at smuggling. Baggage containing over §500 worth of articles, subject to duty, will be detained for examination. By filling in the form of declaration before landing, and delivering it to the revenue officer, time will be saved. The fares by vessels carrying emigrants are cheaper than are those of vessels conveying no emigrants. The dinar cl Line (office, 6, St. Helen's Place, London, E. C.) for ISTew York, via Queenstown for JSTew York, on every Tuesday and Saturday, for Boston, via Queenstown, every Wednesday and Thursday. The steamers return to America, from England as follows : — Inman Line (office, 6, King William Street, London) leave Liver- pool and proceed, via Queenstown, every Tuesday and Thursday. The White Star Line (offices, 41, Maddox Street, and 7, East India Avenue, City, London), Liverpool, via Queenstown, on Thursdays. The National Line (office, 17, G-racechurch Street, London), Liverpool via Queenstown, on Wednesdays. Galon Line (office, 11, Old Broad Street, London), on Wednesdays. Anchor Line (office, 5, East India Avenue, London), Glasgow, via Moville, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Allan Line (office, 17, Gracechurch Street, London), via Queens- town and Quebec, Tuesday. Ditto, via Londonderry and Quebec. AMERICAN MINISTERS IN LONDON. POSTAGE AND TELEGRAPH. )AILS are despatched from London for the United States on the evenings of Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday in every week. The rates of postage are — Letter rate. Newspapers. Books and patterns. Per h oz. 4 oz. 8 oz. 1 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 3d. Id. 2d. Id. 2d. 3d. Newspapers must be posted within seven days of publication. On the same dates a mail starts for Canada at the following rates : — Letter rate. Newspapers. Books and patterns. Per i; oz. 4 oz. 8 oz. 1 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 4d. 2d. 4d. Id. 2d. 4d. Another mail starts for the same destination every Thursday, postage as follows : — Letter rate. Newspapers. Books and patterns. Per ^ oz. 4 oz. 8 oz. 1 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 3d. Id. 2d. Id. 2d. 3d. Telegrams may be sent to the United States at a uniform charge of four shillings per word ; the addresses are counted as part of the message, and charged accordingly. Post Cards are only available in the United Kingdom. AMEEICAN MINISTERS IN LONDON. fiNVOY Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary — Major- 1 GeD. R. C. Schenck, 58, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park, W. Secretary of Legation — Hon. Benjamin Moran, 20, Norfolk Terrace, Bayswater, AV. f | Assistant Secretary— Brevet Brigadier-Gen. Maxwell "Woodhull, o, Westminster Chambers, Victoria Street, S.W. Consul- General of the United States — General Adam Badeau, Office, 1. Dunster's Court, Mincing Lane, E.C. Vice-Consul-General — Joshua Nunn, Esq. American Consulate elsewhere. Paris J. Meredith Read, jun., Consul-General. Marseilles Milton M. Price. Bordeaux Charles J. Clinch. Lyons P. J. Osterhaus. Boulogne J. de la Montaignie. Havre S. L. Glasgow. Nice W. H. Vesey. Southampton ... W. Thompson. Plymouth H. Fox. Falmouth Alfred Fox. Liverpool ... ... Governor Fair child. Glasgow J. Jenkinson. xviii AMERICAN CONSULS. Leith J. T. Robeson. Belfast James Rea. Cork W. H. Townsend. Dublin "Wilson King. Londonderry ... Arthur Livermore. Rome ... ... ... W. M. Armstrong, Consul-General. Frankfort W. P. Webster, do. There seems to be little more that we can say as an introduction to our Guide. As far as money is concerned there need be no difficulty. Letters of credit are easily obtained before starting, and we advise the traveller on his arrival in England to supply himself with English money, which is always easily changed on the Con- tinent. Indeed, owing to the varying price of gold, the advantage of the market will often be on his side, and he may, by clever management, do as we have ourselves done more than once — viz., change just as much English money as is necessary for current expenses, thus getting the benefit of the exchange, and return triumphant with English money again ready to pay on the first occasion upon which it is required. An English sovereign represents $4.83. MONEY. EQUIVALENT VALUES. English. United States. Gold — Sovereign 4 dols. 86| cents. „ Half-sovereign 2 ,, 42 Silver — Crown Piece, os 1 „ 20 „ Half-crown, 2s. 6d „ 60 „ Florin, 2s „ 48 One Shilling „ 24 ,, Sixpence ,, 12 ,, Eourpenny Piece ,... „ 8 ,, Threepenny Piece ,, 6 Copper — Penny ,, 2 ,, Halfpenny „ 1 Greenbacks can be changed in England, but it is far better for the tourist to provide himself with English currency, letters of credit, ox- circular notes, before leaving America. One other thing we would say at parting. Before going on board, if you are likely to start at once, above all things make a good meal; and if you begin to feel "bad," whatever you do, do not take brandy and water ! It is simply fatal ! Keep on deck as much as possible — interest yourself in something — it does not matter what ; do not brood on your painful sensations, and, generally, make up your mind to have a good time — in which case you probably will. And so, having brought our traveller to the ship's side, we bid him bon voyage, and proceed to tell him how he may best employ his time when he shall have reached the Old World. IEELAND. " Any one tvho wishes to form an estimate of Ireland and Irish people will best form it from personal experience. IEELAND. KOUTES. Route, 1. Queenstown to Cork 24 Cork to Blarney ... 27 Cork to Killarney (2 routes) Cork to Dublin Cork to Limerick ... Dublin to Belfast ... Belfast to the Giants Causeway Dublin to Kilkenny 10 29 38 45 11. 47 12. 50 13. 53 Route. Page 9. Cork to Yocghal and Blackwater ... 54 Limerick to Galway, Cong, Glenda- lough,andClifden 55 Clifden to Sligo ... 56 Dublin to Holyhead (for England) ...'58 Belfast to Glasgow... 58 INTRODUCTION. RAYELLERS visit- ing a foreign coun- try for the first time, and inspecting its historical relics and antiquities, -will invariably find their interest in its scenes and people considerably augmented by refreshing their memories of its history to however slight an extent. A A r ery few and brief notes on this subject will, therefore, in each case, merely as aids to memory, pre- cede our geographical and topo- graphical matter. The people of Ireland owe their origin .to the same Celtic stock that originally peopled Gaul, Britain, and Spain. There are grounds for believing that the Greeks and Phoenicians were familiar with Ireland, or Ierne, long previous to the time in which they traded with the Bri- tons. Tacitus states that " the waters and harbours of Ireland were better known, through the resort of commerce and naviga- tors, than those of Britain;" and we may therefore conclude that, commercially and socially, the Irish were anciently far in ad- vance of their less civilized British neighbours. Most of the more ancient monuments and fragments of antiquity which our tourist will inspect, together with the ancient language and names of different localities, &c, all point to the same conclusion. The .Romans, although they pos- sessed England nearly 400 years, do not appear to have attempted the conquest of Ireland. In the early days of Christianity we find Ireland celebrated for the piety and learning of its IRELAND. 21 inhabitants, and the number of its schools and saints. Jt was divided into various little kingdoms, nominally under the control of a supreme monarch, whose power does not, however, appear to have ever been at all equal to his pretensions. After the Normans had conquered England they soon turned their attentions to the annexation of Ireland, and, encouraged by the constant qxiarrels, bitter dissen- sions, and sanguinary broils by which that unfortunate country was then weakened and divided, a comparatively small force, under Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, consisting largely of Walls, or Welshmen, and with the for- mally given permission of the Komish Pope and the Anglo- Norman king (Henry II.), in- vaded the country, and, greatly aided by the natives themselves, whose quarrels they craftily adopted, ultimately sufficed for its conquest. The first invaders landed in the month of May, 1170, twelve miles from Wex- ford, at a creek called the Bann, the entire force being thirty knights, sixty men-at-arms in mail, and three hundred Walls, as the Saxons called the Welsh, lightly armed, and famous for their skill as archers. On the following day they were joined by ten more knights from Wales, and as many more archers ; and shortly after another and larger force, under Raymond le Gros, landed under a rock near Water- ford, where a few months after Strongbow himself appeared. In October, 1172, Henry II. formally ratified the conquest in Dublin, where no house being large enough for his reception, one was specially constructed of wattles, or basket-work, and there was much jousting, feasting, and rejoicing. The English king's right of conquest was duly con- firmed by Pope Alexander III. By this conquest the work of ruin and degradation long before commenced by selfish and obsti- nate factions was completed and confirmed. Internal commotion constantly raging generated new scenes of blood and carnage during the reign of Prince John, Henry's son. A recklessly evil foreign government added the horrors of famine to all the many other evils which afflicted this unhappy " house divided against itself." Amongst the Normans and Saxons the Irish soon acquired the reputation of being pre-eminently treacherous and murderous, and the hatred and contempt which this idea originated in the minds of the conquerors did great evil then, and has never since been wholly eradicated. Richard I. gave all his thoughts to the Holy Land, and had none to spare for poor old Ireland, where conspiracies and insurrections were constantly in progress. Dublin was destroyed, robbers abounded, savage factions spread the desolation of war in every direction, and there was no security but the strong hand for either lives or property throughout the entire country. The same calamitous doings pre- vailed when the greatest of the Plantagenet monarchs, Edward I., ascended the English throne, and when Piers Gavestone was ap- pointed governor. The Scottish nobleman Edward Bruce aided the Irish to throw off the English invaders' bonds, and at first with great success. The English were 22 IRELAND. savagely massacred throughout Ulster. Terrible scenes of war- fare followed, characterized by the most indescribable horrors of carnage and destruction. Some of the Irish chieftains joined the English, some remained true to the Scots. It was an illustra- tion of Camden's remark, " Every kingdom divided against itself shall be made desolate;" and desolate indeed poor Ierne had become. The expulsion of the Scots was followed by the old scenes of internal strife and dis- cord, by the old horrors of slay- ings and burnings. Time went on, but there arose no dawning of better things. The English, rightly or wrongly, had come to regard the Irish as a barbarous, irreclaimable people, only to be held down by the strong hand and kept apart from the law-abiding and orderly. jSo man of English race was " to use the Irish dress or language, or take an Irish name, or observe any rule or custom of the Irish," on pain of suffering heavy fines or imprison- ment. Cruel persecutions, con- tinued through successive genera- tions, intensified the hatred be- tween the conquered and the con- querors. " It was made highly penal to present a mere Irishman to an ecclesiastical benefice, or receive him into any monastery or other religious house; to entertain an Irish "bard, minstrel, or story- teller, or to admit an Irish horse to graze on the pasture of an Englishman"! In 1393 the Irish made a vigorous attempt to win back their country, and with every prospect of ultimate success ; but the mere arrival of a large force of trained soldiers from England under Richard II. terrified the wild, ill-trained patriots into submission, but only for a time. Five years after a fresh and better arranged effort was made, but with small effect. The second son of Henry IV. did something as governor or lord lieutenant of Ireland for allaying disturbances and strengthening the law, but petty commotions still continued to disturb the land. Lord Talbot in 1447 put down insurrections with a force of seven hundred men. The contests of York and Lancaster were taken up in Ireland, and generated bloodshed there. The Duke of York having Irish blood in his veins, and being a great favourite with the Irish by reason of his love of justice, and the mildness of his rule over them. Ireland was tolerably tranquil under the government of the Earl of Kildare, who was ap- pointed Lord Deputy of Ireland somewhere in the middle of the fifteenth century. But feuds and factions were soon at their ancient work. The Irish es- poused the cause of Lambert Simnel, who was crowned at Waterford as Earl of Warwick, and rightful king of England. He was afterwards turnspit in the English king's kitchen. "When the new impostor Per- kin Warbeck arose, the Irish also espoused his cause, and Sir Edward Paynings in 1494 ad- vanced against them with a thou- sand men. After the death of Henry VII., who governed Ire- land with a considerable degree of prudence and wisdom, we have the chronicle of internal feuds and bloodshed resumed, and frequent changes of gover- nors contributed to the country's unsettled condition. War, famine, IRELAND. 23 and pestilence were doing their -work when new horrors dawned in the shape of religious strife. The English Reformation brought no good to Ireland. From, this point the events of Irish history- become too numeroiis and com- plicated to be briefly summarized. Elizabeth's government of Ireland was one of comparative apathy and neglect, although she doubt- less wished to strengthen the hands of the law there and ren- der property secure ; but the successor of the Popes who had authorized the invasion of Ireland now joined with Spain to stir her up to rebellion and civil war. The English were merciless. Mothers fled with their children to the woods, where they perished with hunger, and men were slaughtered by thousands as if they were mere cattle. The brutal soldiers grew weary of their bloody work of extermina- tion. Hugh O'Xeile rose in arms, and with him all the Irish Catholics, in the name of the Pope and the king of Spain, but with little good for the national cause. Cromwell's name became a curse in Ireland. Ireland struck a weak blow for James Stuart, and from that time to the present there have been a suc- cession of rebellions and revolts, clearly showing that many years of good and kindly government must yet elapse before Ireland will settle down into a state of perfect content and peace. Ireland is divided into thirty- two counties, nine of which form the province of Ulster, twelve that of Leinster, six that of Mun- ster, and five that of Connaught. It is governed by a lord-Lieute- nant appointed by the British Sovereign. The population is nearly 6,000,000, emigration and other causes having caused a decrease of some 2,000,000 in the last 20 years : notwithstanding this its commerce and finance have been much improved during that period. It being assumed that the tra- veller proposes to visit Ireland, the most convenient way of doing so will be to disembark at Qxieens- town, where all the Liverpool steamers stop : the more inter- esting points of the island can be visited in the space of a few days. The j ourney may then be resumed, either by way of Dublin, Holy- head, and Liverpool, or by Belfast and Glasgow. Both lines of steamers are excellent : the for- mer, which starts from Kings- town, a suburb of Dublin, having been bxrilt with an eye to speed, the passage of 66 miles takes about four hours in average weather. The best months for visiting Ireland are June, July, and Au- gust. The weather is then gene- rally fine, and the temperature agreeable ; but before the middle of May and after August it is likely to be damp, and the fre- quent rains, combined with the fogs, make sight - seeing very disagreeable. The physical geography of Ire- land is peculiar. The mountains — or more properly the hills, for the principal, called Magillicud- dy's Reeks, are only 3,413 ft. high — form a sort of belt round the coast, leaving the inland parts comparatively flat. The principal rivers are the Shannon, the Barrow, Boyne, Suir, Slaney, Erne, Foyle, Bann, Blackwater, and Lifley. The Shannon is the largest ; in fact, it is the largest river in the u Route l.—Ql'EEXSTOWX TO CORK. Ireland. United Kingdom, its length being 240 miles; it is navigable for barges to within 5 miles of its source. No country in Enrope contains so great a proportion of land covered with fresh water. Lough Xeagh, in Ulster, is the largest lake, being 14 miles in length by 11 miles in breadth. The other principal lakes are Corrib, Dearg. Erne, Mask, and Killamey. These last-named and most celebrated are the smallest, the three cover- ing an area of 6,110 acres, while Lough Is eagh alone covers 98,200 acres. The length of the island from N.E. to S.W. is 304 miles, its greatest breadth is 194 miles, and it comprises a total of 20,322,641 acres, or 31,874 square miles. Roete 1. QUEEXSTOWN TO CORK. £^^)UEEXSTOWX, (Hotel: |,ra)iW Queen's,) originally 7^u«)% known as the Cove of i^^j^ Cork, received its pre- sent name in honour of Queen Victoria's visit in 1849. It is distant 14 miles by road from Cork, of which it is the port. The harbour, which is one of the most spacious in the United Kingdom, is capable of sheltering the entire British navy. Its entrance is admirably de- fended by two forts, one on either side the channel. There is also the "Westmoreland Port, on Spike Island, which con- tains a convict prison : the in- mates, numbering nearly 1,000, are kept continually at work on the Government works. An order from the governor is required by travellers wishing to visit the island. Rocky Island contains the gunpowder, 10,000 barrels of which are kept in chambers ex- cavated out of the solid rock. An order from the Commandant of Ordnance is required to visit this island. Haulbowline Island con- tains a tank capable of holding 5,000 tuns of fresh water and very large government stores. Xo order is necessary here. The harbour of Cork is noted prin- cipally for its beautiful scenery, and this town is becoming im- portant as a watering-place on account of the salubrity and equality of the climate. The harbour is also celebrated for the number of regattas which take place annually. The splendid Inman bine of steamers are arriv- ing and departing four times a week for Xew York. To the west of the town there is a beau- tiful promenade formed from a substantial quay erected in 1848. It was into this harbour that Admiral Drake, of the British Navy, retreated when chased by the Spaniards; then into "Drake's Pool," up a creek called Cross- haven, where he was so effec- tually hidden that the Spaniards, after several days' search, gave him up in despair, thinking he must have reached the Channel again by magic. Cork may be reached from Queenstown either by road, rail (trains leave every half-hour during the day, time of journey under one hour), or river. We advise the last as far the plea- santest though not the most ex- peditious. There are many boats every day, and the distance is only 11 miles. ^ The first place of note on the river Lee, by which we shall pro- inland. Routel.— QUEENS TOWN TO CORK. 25 ceed, is Moxkstown, with its ruined castle, built in 1636. A curious legend attaches to this place. TheLady of Monkstown, variously named by tradition Ana- tasia Gould and Anastasia Arch- deckne, bethought herself, during her husband's absence in Spain, that she would prepare him a surprise on his return by building him a new castle. He had pro- bably not left her money enough for such an xmdertaking : to pro- vide means, she arranged with all the workmen employed to receive in payment, at prices fixed by her- self, food, clothing, and other necessaries. The tariff of prices fixed was so liberal that she cleared profits enough to cover the entire costs of the castle within four- pence. The castle was always thereafter said to have cost only a groat. Between Monkstown and Pas- sage is the pretty village of Glenbrook, containing a good hotel and bathing establishment, boat clubhouse, &c. About 2 miles further on we come to the little watering-place of Passage, celebrated as having been the port whence Sir "Walter Raleigh sailed for Guinea in 1617; the Sirius, the second steamship which crossed the Atlantic, left Passage on the 1st of January, 1858, for New York. Lover, in his " Irish Lyrics," pleasantly says of the town : — "The town of Passage is both large and spacious, And situate upon the say ; 'Tis nate and daeent, and quite ad- jacent To come from Cork on a summer's day." Passing through a magnificent sheet of water, called Lough Mahon we see Blackrock, a picturesque promontory, which at a distance resembles a ruined castle. Black- rock Castle is a modern structure, consisting of a circular tower with a small turret. The tall round tower overlook- ing our route is the Mathew Tower, erected in honour of Father Mathew, the great apostle of temperance. Cork {Hotels : Imperial Royal, Hibernian, Victoria. ) Popula- tion, 78,382. A city, port, and the capital of the county of Cork, and province of Munster, on the river Lee. It returns two members. The rail reaches the town by a tunnel half a mile long. Its splendid Naval Harbour is 11 miles lower down. Cork is not older than the year 600, when an abbey was founded on a low island in the Lee, where most of the city now stands. From the sur- rounding marshes it derives its name (Corcagh). A long street or walk, lined with trees, called the Mardyke, crosses the island, which is united to both banks of the stream by nine bridges, the best of which is the Angle- sea iron-bridge. The New Wall, which runs along the south bank of the river, is another pleasant walk. The Mall and the Grand Parade are good broad streets. The suburbs to the north and south stand higher ; on the soxxth bank of the Lee is the new City Park of 240 acres, near the Bandon Bailway. The houses are built of stone, either thatched or slated, with many narrow, dirty streets, and but few remarkable public buildings. St. Finbarr's Cathe- dral was built in 1735, and is quite unworthy of the city, except the tower which belonged to a former building on the same spot. 26 Route l.—QUEEXSTOWX TO CORK. irelaxd. A new cathedral has been begun. St. Peter and St. Paxil is a hand- some modern Gothic church, by Pugin ; and there is a fine new Boman Catholic Church, the Holy Trinity, 'which was founded by Father Mathew. St. Anne's Church also, from its command- ing situation, is a notable feature. It is also historically interesting, as James II. of England at- tended service there when in Cork ; the peal of bells is cele- brated for its beauty. On the site of G-ill Abbey, to the south of the Lee, is the new Queen s Col- lege, a handsome quadrangular Gothic pile, by Sir T. Deane, opened in 1849, when the Queen visited the town ; her statue is here. The new Model School is a large blinding, 291 ft. long, built by the Board of Education. The Theatre, a handsome Gre- cian edifice, will hold 2,000 per- sons. The Market Place, Com and Butter Markets, large Im- perial Hotel and City Booms, County Jail, County Prison, Custom House, Mansion House, Bishop's Palace, may be men- tioned among other buildings. There was a castle where the Court House stands. A large Lunatic Asylum for the county is on Shannock Hill. The Botanic Garden is now a public Ceme- tery, established by Father Ma- thew, who began his first Tem- perance Society here in 1838 : a statue to this good man, in his habit as a Capuchin friar, stands in Patrick Street. There are also large Barracks on the hill above the town; a Museum at the Loyal Cork Institute, founded in 1807 ; and a good proportion of benevolent institutions for both creeds. Carriages and Cars at the station and hotels. Tariff of Car rates : — Within city limits. "Without. Per mile. Per mile. For a drive of not over 20 miles 0s. 9d. Is. Od. Do. over 20 and under 40 Is. 3d. Is. 6d. Do. do. 40 60 Is. 6d. Is. 9d. Everv half -hour after first hour 0s. 9d. Is. Od. For returning the same road as driven — if not kept waiting beyond half an hour — half the above rates ; if detained beyond the half -hour, Is. to be paid for a one-horse covered carriage ; for a jaunting car, 6d. for each hour detained, and half fare back. If it is intended to hire the vehicle by time, intimation of such must be given to the driver prior to the engagement. After 12 at night the fares are doubled. Tariff of Jaunting Cars: — Four-wheel carnage, Is. 3d. per mile ; two-wheel, 9d. per mile. To Blackrock Castle, Is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. ; to Blarnev, 2s. 9d. to 3s. 3d. ; to Glanmire, 2s. 3d. to 3s. 3d. ; to Queenstown, os. 9d. to 7s. 3d. ; to Passage, 2s. 9d. to 4s. 3d: ; to Queen's College, Is. to Is. 6d., driver included. Tariff doubled after 12 at night. Cork is not a large seat of manufacture. But there is a good export trade (to the value of £3,000,000) in grain, cattle, whisky, provisions, and especially country butter. About 340,000 firkins of the last went to market in 1866 ; it is duly classified and branded by a committee, and the prices fixed beforehand every market day. Maclise and Barry, the painters, Sheridan Knowles, the dramatist, Dr. Maginn,one of the first editors Route 2.— CORK TO BLARNEY. 11 of Frasers Magazine, J. "W. Croker, late editor of the Quar- terly, Murphy, the Spanish tra- veller, Haynes Bay ley, the song- writer, "Wood, the antiquary, Mil- liken, Hogan, Hastie, the Mada- gascar traveller, and Mabony, better known as Father Prout, were natives. The mention of the last-named reminds us that Shan- don Church, whose bells he sung so sweetly, is close at hand, and there he lies buried. The steeple of this church is one hundred and twenty feet high, and its form seven shillings, is the more usual conveyance. The castle is a fine old ruin, with a donjon keep still in goodpreservation,though dating from the early part of the loth century, when it was built by Cormac McCarthy, one of the original royal race of Ireland. The celebrated Blarney Stone is on the south side under the para- pet, and both difficult and danger- ous of access ; yet many try to reach and kiss it on account of the traditionary good results of such a proceeding. The origin JAUNTING CAB. suggests an old-fashioned pepper- box. Should the tourist like, as he probably will, a pleasant row on the river, boats can be hired for that purpose at the ferry slip on Penrose Quay. Route 2. CORK TO BLARNEY. IVZ&g3{ HE distance from Cork vr)j,d^ *° -blarney Castle and ©itpl Groves, celebrated in l$£$£)j song, is five miles ; there is no railway, but a jaunting car, which costs about of the superstition is quite lost, but it has furnished our language with one of its most expressive epithets. Who does not know the meaning of " blarney " ? Mil- liken, in his amusing old song, " The Groves of Blarney," de- scribes the effect of the charm : one of the more recent versions gives it thus : — " There is a stone there, That, whoever kisses, Oh, he neTer misses To grow eloquent. 'Tis he may clamber To a lady's chamber, Or become a member Of Parliament. Xtaite 2.— CO UK TO BLARNEY. "A clover spouter He'll sure turn out, or An out or outer To be let alone ! Don't hope to hinder him, Sure he's a pilgerim From the Blarney Stone.' another on the first floor of the castle : he says it does just a* well as the old one, and proba- bly he is right. The groves are still ven- pretty, though no longer BLABNliT CASTLE. The original air, slightly modi- fied, is well known to all as " The Last Rose of Summer. ' Since the real Blarney Stone is not easy to get at, the guide keeps adorned with statues or fountains, but left to the care of Nature. The caves, under the castle, said to have been used as prisons, de- serve a visit, and, if possible, a Route 2.— CORK TO KJLLARNEY. 29 call should be made at St. Anne' 3 Hill, the celebrated hydropathic- establishment of Dr. Barter, situa- ted about two miles off. A short distance from the cas- tle lies the lovely little lake of Blarney, to which is attached ano- ther tradition. It is said that M'Carthy, Earl of Clancarty, whose possessions were confis- cated during the Bevolution, tiful white cows rise at certain seasons from the bottom of the lake to graze on the bordering pastures ! Blarney Castle is the property of Sir G. Colt hurst, M.P., and is freely opened to the public. This once strong castle was destroyed by the army of William of Orange when the part now remaining was left standing. VIEW EBOAI THE EOXaL HOTEL AT KILLARtfEY. threw all Iris family plate into the lake at a certain spot; that the hiding-place is never known but to three of his descendants at a time; and that before one dies he connnunicates it to another of the family. The se- cret is to be religiously kept until one of the descendants again be- comes possessed of the property. It is also said that herds of beau- Route 3. CORK TO KILLARXEY. (Via Mallow Junction.) ^^EAVIXG Cork from the ?Mfes statiou of tne Great te) (cm Southern and Western *zigg*J Railway, we proceed on- ward to Blarney station, Mallow Junction (19 £ miles) at which 30 Route 2,.— CORK TO KILLARNEY. point our road branches off to Killamey. Mallow is a pretty town of about 5,000 inhabitants, agreeably situated on the Black- water river. It was once a fashionable bathing-place. The castle on the river, at the east end of the town, is the residence of Sir C. Norreys, Bart. The line proceeds by Lombardstowk and Kan turk, where is an old castle on the Blackwater, erected by the McCarthys, thence to Mill- street, near which is Drishane Castle, the seat of J. "Wallis, with an extensive park ; and (41 miles) in about three hours, we reach Killarney. {Hotels : Royal Victoria Railway, Lake, Kenmare Arms, O'Learys. The first hotel(Yietoria) is beautifully situ- ated on the Lower Lake, close to the edge of the water, com- manding one of the most delight- ful views in the world. It is fitted up with the utmost regard to the requirements and comforts of tourists, is but a short distance from the wildly grand and ro- mantic scenery of Dunloe, and close to the famous Gap. It is a large very admirably managed establishment, adjoining the railway station, and occupying a central and convenient position for visiting the best scenery. The manager personally supervises the arrangements of boating and other excursions with a view to comfort and economy. The Vic- toria and Lake hotels are both well kept. Killamey is 44 miles from Cork. Its public buildings are a parish church, a Roman Catholic cathedral, market house and as- sembly rooms. Population 6,000. Lord Macaulay pronounced Kil- lamey the most lovely spot in Britain. The tourist who is pressed for time may see in a single day, cursorily, of course, the chief objects of interest in this attrac- tive region. To enable him to do this, he should start early from his hotel and visit Miickross Abbey and the Tore cascade by car, and returning to his hotel, should take another car to the Gap of Dunloe, having, previous to start- ing, arranged to have a boat to meet him at Lord Brandon's cot- tage. If the tourist has two days, the excursion to the Gap and his visit to the various places of interest on the Lakes will con- sume one, and the excursion to Muckross, Tore, and, if he desires, the ascent of Mangerton, will occupy the second. Before proceeding to describe Killamey, we shoidd premise that there is another way of reaching it, which, where time is no object, we advise in preference. This is by way of Macroom, Glengariff, and Kenmare, and the wild gran- deur of the scenery to be passed through will amply repay the tra- veller for his loss of time. A short line of rail conveys him past fine old ruins of castles and abbeys to Macroom, a village re- markable for nothing except the ivy-covered castle, the seat of Lord Bantry. To Pennsylvanians this venerable building will have a peculiar interest, apart from its picturesqueness, for within its walls was born Admiral Penn, the father of AVilliam Penn. It dates from the reign of King John, and suffered greatly diiring the Civil Wars. Here post-horses or the mail-car must be taken ; to reach Inchageela, a private car is the best plan, as it allows more Route S.—COEK TO KILLARNEY. 31 time. Inchageela, on the verge of the Cork mountains, will afford good accommodation for a night, and there is charming scenery in the neighbourhood. Shortly after leaving this, we stop for a short time to visit Gongane Barra, i.e. the Holy Lake, with the ruins of St. Finnbar's Abbey, where there is a holy well, which in former times was held in high reverence by the inhabitants, and was a piace of pilgrimage for the pea- santry, who believed its Avaters were a sure cure for all the ills that flesh is heir to. The tradition is this : St. Patrick, after ban- ishing the reptiles out of the country, overlooked one hideous monster, a winged dragon, which desolated the adjacent country, and power was conferred on St. Finnbar to drown the monster in the lake on condition of erect- ing a church where the waters of the lake met the tide, which accounts for the present cathe- dral of Cork. A little way from Gongane Barra, we enter the wild pass of Keunaneigh, with its overhanging rocks ; and now begins the most lovely part of the drive, along the coast of Bantry Bay to Glengariff, picturesquely situated near the head, and pos- sessing a good hotel. The special attractions in the neighbourhood are Cromwell's Bridge, an inter- esting ruin, erected by the Pro- tector when in pursuit of the 0' Sullivans ; the seat of the Earl of Bantry, the Glen, and the Peep-hole. The tourist, if time permits, should take a boat, on a fine summer evening, and be rowed across to Bantry. The distance is but nine miles, and the scenery is most superb. The picturesque island of Garnish, crowned with a fort and martello tower, erected shortly after the French made their appearance in the bay sixty years ago, is at first the most conspicuous object after leaving the inn ; but as the boat proceeds on its course, the island and the fort dwindle into insig- nificance against the dark back- ground of the lofty Glengariff mountains. As these seem to recede, the low island of "Whiddy appears in front, with its solitary ruin of the ancient castle of the 0' Sullivans, while between its hills lies the bay, from Hungry Hill, 2,100 feet high, to the wooded cove that hides the town of Bantry. From Glengariff to Ken mare is 17 miles. The most striking feature of the journey is the road itself, which is a triumph of engineering skill. It attains a height from Kenmare of 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, with a gradual ascent of 150 feet in a mile. Itpasses through two tun- nels, a rather unusual circumstance on a ny road , exc ept railroads . One of them is 200 yards in length ; and passing through it in the open car, the tourist will obtain at either end a view of the hilly country, which will make him wish that tunnels on common roads were somewhat more fre- quent. After passing the largest tunnel, which stands on the con- fines of Kerry, the road enters the county of Cork, and winds amid the rugged mountains of Glen- garifF to the sea, at the head of Bantry Bay. Barley Lake and the Windy Gap will also be passed on the road to Kenmare (Hotel: Lansdowne Arms.) The town is small, but clean, and is entered by a fine suspension bridge, 470 feet in length : the property belongs to the Marquis of Lansdowne. From this place, 32 lloute Z.— CORK TO KILLARSEY. until Killarney itself is reached, a distance of some 10 or 12 miles, the finest scenery occurs, embracing the whole range of the Kerry mountains, with the Black Valley, the Gap of Dunloe, and the chain of lakes, all of which are passed before the journey ends at Killarney. Apropos of this route, two one of the picturesque beggars who will pursue the car, he will be backed by a perfect rabble, who will flock like ravens round a prey, to clean you out of your last coin. It is, perhaps, hardly worth mentioning, still, those who are troubled with giddiness had better ride on the right side of the car after leaving Glen- oid DUNLOE. words of caution are necessary — always be provided with plenty of wraps, and have the umbrellas handy ; the mountain-storms are sudden, and the wind in the passes, and especially in the tunnels, cuts like a knife. In the next place, do not be too soft-hearted ! If you give to gariff ; the left gives better views, especially if you have a weakness for calculating the depth of precipices. But behold us safely arrived at Killarney, and prepared to explore its thousand beauties. Let us, first of all, suppose that the tourist can afford only one day. Route 3.— CORK TO KILLARNEY. 38 In this ease, he will start from his hotel hetimes. He passes by the workhouse, the lunatic asylum, the Boman Catholic cathedral, and reaches, at a distance of rather more than 2 miles, the venerable ruins of Aghadoe, which stand on a rising ground, comprising a castle, the origin of which is unknown, and of which there remains only the fragment of the tower, about 30 ft. in height, and the church, which is an oblong in 1838. The stones forming the roof of this Cave — supposed to be Druidical — are thickly inscribed in the Ogham, or ancient Irish character. When first entered it contained some human bones and skulls. There are the remains of a church and round tower at Agha- doe, called the "Bishop's Chair" and " The Pulpit." Beyond the cave and about 4 miles further on is the Gap op Dunloe, which we TEE EAGLE'S NjiST. structure, comprising two chapels, one erected in 1158, the other being of more recent date. "We next pass Aghadoe House, the seat of Lady Headley. Five miles onward we arrive at the ruined church of Fullaloe, then Dunloe Castle, recently restored, once the residence and the stronghold of the O'Sullivans. It was erected to protect the Gap, and endured many sieges. In a field near by is the cave of Dunloe, discovered have already casually mentioned- It is a wild, gloomy defile, 4 miles in length, through which there is no carriage road. The little river Loe runs through it, spreading out into 5 lakes, and seeming a mere brook when viewed in connection with the precipitous rocks on either side, which appear as if they would topple down upon the spectator. The gap lies between Magillicuddy's Peeks and the Purple Mountains, and 34 Route Z.—CORK TO EILLARNET. it was into one of these small lakes that the ruffian whose crime has been made the plot of Gerald Griffin's novel, " The Col- legians," and Boucicault's drama, " The Colleen Bawn," threw his unhappy victim. At different points small cannon either hand over two thousand feet. Hard by the entrance of the Gap stands a little cottage, cele- brated as the traditional residence of the charming Kate Kearney ; a middle - aged woman, who claims to be the granddaughter BIBTHPLACE OE DANIEL O'CONNELL, BEAB CAHIBCIVEEN. are fired off by the natives, which produce a fine effect. As powder costs something, a small fee is expected. At some points the height of the suiTOunding rocks is 3,414 feet, and a greater portion of the pass is through a chasm, the precipitous rocks rising on of the wily beauty, lives there, and supports herself by supply- ing refreshment to travellers. We trust our friends will have poetry enough in them to patronize her humble store for her grand- mother's sake ! At about 9 A miles from Killar- Route 3.— CORK TO KILLARNEY. 35 ney, and soon after passing Cosaun Lough — the lowest of the little lakes referred to— the stream is crossed as it issues from the Black Lough ; it is here that St. Patrick is said to have ban- ished the last Irish snake. "We keep to the left of Cushvally Emerging from the pass, we come in sight of the gloomy amphi- theatre called Black Valley, of which Kohl says, " had there been at the bottom, among the rugged masses of black rock, some smoke and flame instead of water, we might have imagined OLD WEIK BJUDGJJ. Lough and Auger Lough, and reach Pike Eock (11 miles), at which point the cars are left, and the tourist proceeds on horseback or on foot to Lord Brandon's cottage (4 miles), where the boat is taken. we were looking into the entrance of the infernal regions." The " water " of which he speaks consists of several pools, or small lakes, the largest of which is known as " The Lake of the Char" — a species of Jtoute 3.—C0HK TO KILLARNEY. red trout. Pursuing the road we arrive at Lord Brandon's cottage, to take boat. This is a good point from which to ascend the Purple Mountains — a thing worth doing, if time per- mit, as the view, extending to the sea itself, is one of the finest there- abouts. The Lakes op Killarney are three in number, called the Upper Lake, Tore, or the Middle Lake, through the lake we enter a river about 2^- miles in length, called the Long Range, which connects the waters of the Upper and Middle Lakes. Passing the Eagle's Nest, a precipice 700 ft. high, on the summit of which the eagle still builds its nest, there is a remark- able echo from this and sur- rounding rocks. A little way beyond we gain and the Lower Lake, called also Lough Leane. The length of the Upper Lake is 2| miles ; it contains twelve small islands, the principal ones being M'Carthy'sand Arbutus, the latter so called from the great quantity of the arbutus plants which cover it. The Upper Lake is generally regarded as the finest of the three, on account of the variety as well as beauty of its scenery. Passing the " Meeting of the "Waters ;" and inclining to the right, and passing under the arches of the Old Weir Bridge, we enter the waters of the beautiful Tore, or Middle Lake. It covers an area of 680 acres, and contains four islands, the largest being Dinish and Brickeen, which separate this lake from the Lower Lake. There is a cottage on Dinish, to which, if an arrangement is made before Route Z.—COUK TO KILLARNEY. 37 starting, the landlord of the hotel will send lunch to await the arrival of the tourist. Our route now lies across the Lake to one of the three pas- sages from it to the Lower Lake. Before leaving it the tourist will have time to admire its charm- ing scenery, which is thought by many to surpass even that of the Upper Lake. The passage usually of these is 20 feet in perpendicular height, falling into a natural rock basin; then, foaming between precipitous rocks, the water takes a second leap of nearly the same height, to vanish for a while, and reappear in the third fall. A small grotto near the foot of this last, gives a particularly fine view of the waterfall. Ross Island may also be visited, and the traveller MTJCKKOSS ABBEY. taken is that between Dinish and Brickeen Islands. The Lower Lake is 5 miles long by 3 miles in width. It contains about 30 islands, on the principal of which, Innisfallen, are the ruins of an abbey, said to have been founded in the year 600, by St. Finian. About 2 miles from this is 0' Sullivan's Cascade, with three distinct falls. The highest should, if possible, partake of the salmon, which is supposed to de- rive an especial flavour from being broiled on skewers of the native arbutus wood. It will be the best plan, in order to visit Muckross Abbey, the next point of interest, to re- turn to the inn and take a car, so as to save time. The abbey, founded in 1440, is in the grounds Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. of H. A. Herbert, Esq., M.P., and comprises both church and con- ventual buildings. The cloisters of the abbey sur- round a court-yard, in the midst of which stands an immense yew- tree of great age, and measuring 12 feet in circumference. In the church are the tombs of many of Ireland's greatest chiefs, and several of the kings of Munster are said to have been buried here. In the centre of the choir may be seen the tomb of M'Carthy More, also that of O'Donoghue More. A fee is expected by the custodian. In the kitchen is shown the corner where, aboutthe year 1760, John Drake, a hermit, made his abode for eleven years. His good humour and piety made him a favourite with the people of the vicinity, among whom many anecdotes of him, handed down by tradition, are still related. The tourist will pass through Captain Herbert's grounds to reach the Tore Cascade, one of the finest, in point of surround- ings, of any in the British Islands. It is 60 feet high, and descends over a wall of jagged rocks, be- tween beautifully wooded cliffs, rich with ferns and undergrowth. The ascent of Mangerton, a mountain 2,756 feet high, may be made on foot by whose who are not afraid of hard work, or on ponies. The approach is close by the inn at Muckross, and the view from the summit is well worth all the trouble, embracing on the east all the district of Tipperary; north and east, Tralee and the Gliebhuish mountains ; west, Tore Mountain, Magilli- cuddy's Becks, and the Purple Mountains ; and south, Bantry Bay, Kenmare Bay, and the broad Atlantic. While ascending Mangerton, at an elevation of 2,206 feet, we reach the Devil's Punch Bowl, a sequestered lake in a very deep hollow. It is said never to freeze. Carrantual, the highest summit in Ireland, is about 15 miles from Killamey, and may be ascended by those who love chmbing; it is 3,414 feet high, and of course gives a proportionately extensive view. The expedition will require an entire day, and can only be made on foot. A guide should be en- gaged to ensure safety. He will charge 3s. 6d. In a rocky wild, a mile east- ward from the Devil's Punch Bowl, . is Glennacappul, where the scenery is very romantic. It is a place which should not be visited without a guide, as the mountains often become en- veloped in mist, and are only safe to those who are particularly familiar with their paths. Route 4. CORK TO DUBLIN. jlHE route from Cork is by way of Mallow to Btjt- _ tevant. The place was ^^ once of some importance, and there still stand the ruins of a large abbey, founded by David de Barry in the reign of Edward I. ; the clock tower is nearly all that is perfect. The castle is the seat of Sir J. C. Anderson, Bart. At Charle- ville, 9 miles further, the line diverges to Limerick. Five miles on we reach Kilmallock, now a poor place, but once in high favour with the neighbouring gentry for the beauty of its situ- ation; here are the ruins of a Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIX. 39 Dominican convent, founded in 1291, and dismantled by Crom- well. The partly renewed church has a fine bell-tower, and contains tombs of the Fitzgerald family. The older houses of the town are ornamented with battlements, and the fortifications, though in a niinoxis state, may still be traced. It was once the residence of the great families of Limerick, and was celebrated for its beauty. Limerick Junction (57f miles), where the main line from Cork to Dublin is intersected by the rail- way from AVaterf ord to Limerick. GooLD Cross (69 J miles). Eight miles distant from this station is Cashel (population 4,37-1), the an- cient residence of the kings of Munster. If possible a visit should be made to this place. It is beautifully situated at the foot of the Rock of Cashel, 300 feet high, on the summit of which stand the ruins of Cormac's Chapel, built bv a king of Mun- ster, in 1134, a'Eound Tower 90 feet high, the remains of the an- cient Cathedral, and the old Cross, bearing a sculptural figure of St. Patrick. The present Cathedral is a modern building; the old one was burned by the Earl of Kil- dare, with the avowed intention of killing the Archbishop ; luckily for him, he was not there that day. Holy Cross Abbey (75 f miles), founded by Donald O'Brien, king of Limerick, in 1182 ; so called from the alleged possession of a piece of the true cross. Thurles (78 miles), an important market town for grain. (Pop. 5,500). It is the seat of the Roman Catholic archdiocese of Cashel. St. Patrick's College is one of the several educational establishments here. The Danes were defeated here in the 10th century by an O'Brien, who built the castle. There are ruins of two castles and an abbey. At Tem- plemore, some 7 miles further, are the ruins of a preceptory of the Knight's Templars, from . whom the place derives its name. There are large infantry barracks in the town. Maryborough (114 miles), a market town of no im- portance. Portarlington, for- merly called Coltoldry, a town given by Charles II. to Lord Arlington, who disposed of it to Sir P. Coote, in whose hands it was afterwards confiscated, and given, by William III., to General Ruvigny, who settled in it Protestants driven from France and Germany by religious persecutions. It possesses a beau- tiful Protestant church and a Ro- man Catholic chapel. The great Duke of "Wellington was educated here as a boy. Kildare, Hotel ; Railway. The town (population 1,399) is a mile from the station. The ruins of its Cathedral contain- ing the Fitzgerald tombs, bespeak the former splendour of the place. Here also -are the remains of St. Bridget's cell, and of a castle built by the English in the 14th cen- tury, as well as a remarkably fine Round Tower, 132 feet high. Newbridge (139 £ miles), the railway crosses the LifFey. On the left of the bine is the well- known Ciu-ragh Camp, and the racecourse of the same name, 6 miles long. After passing five small stations without meeting any object of interest to the tourist, we reach Dublin. — The earliest authen- tic notice of Eblana or Dublin as a city occurs in the geography of Ptolemy, who flomished in the second century. Its name is due to two Irish words — dubh, black, 40 Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. and linn, water, the river Liffey, which here empties itself into the sea, being of a dark colour, in con- sequence of its flowing over a hog. Towards the close of the fifth •century is is supposed that the Danes settled in Dublin. They obtained so much power that in 1014 they were expelled from the city by the united forces of the kingdoms of Meath and Leinster. The city was then pillaged and partially destroyed. The Danes returning retook the city and fortified it, crowning their leader Amlaffe king of Dublin ; but they were constantly at war with the natives. Edgar the Peaceable, King of England, subdued the Danish King, and in 980 the Danes were routed in a great battle by Malachi. They how- ever returned, and were after- wards for a time expelled by Brian Boroimhe,Kingof Munster, with powerful assistance from the native King of Leinster. They returned, and one of the greatest battles in Irish history was fought out on the plains of Clontarf , resulting in the death of the great poet, musician, and warrior, Brian Boroimhe, at the age of eighty-three, and the slaying of 11,000 of his army. His burial-place is said by tra- dition to have been at Kilmain- ham, close to Dublin. It was at Dublin that Strong-bow formally ceded his conquest of Ireland to Henry II. , when Hugh de Lacy was appointed its first Governor. Henry also held a parliament at Dublin, where he gave the laws of England to his new subjects, and established the four courts of Chancery. His temporary palace was constructed with wattles, on a spot where Dame -lane enters George-street. The ancient city of Dublin is now distinguished mainly by the fine proportions of its handsome streets and the magnificence of its public buildings. It is divided by the river Liffey into two equal parts. The city has an interesting neigh- bourhood, the scenery in the im- mediate vicinity of the town being exceedingly fine. All that is of especial interest, including the Phcenix-park, may be seen in one day, with the aid of a hackney coach or car. The fare from any one point to another within the borough is, for a car with one horse, carrying two persons, 6d. The drivers are generally intelli- gent and civil. The chief objects of interest may be visited in the following order. Commencing at Sackville- street, where, or near which, are situated the principal hotels and shops, we remark the General Post Office, built in 1818, a building of considerable beauty, with a portico, 223 feet long, supported by six Ionic columns. Nelson's Monument, a column of granite, 121 feet in height, sup- porting a statue of the admiral by Thomas Kirk, 1 3 feet high : 6d. is charged for admission, and there is a fine view from the top. But perhaps the best general view may be had from Carlisle Bridge. In front extends Sackville-street, with its fine rows of buildings, the Nelson Monument, and the Rotunda; on the other side the view extends up Westmoreland and D'Olier-streets. In the latter are Trinity College and the Bank of Ireland. Up the river, on the right, are the Four Courts, and in the dis- tance, the Wellington Obelisk, in Phoonix-park. Down the river are seen the Custom House and the Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. 41 shipping. In College-green is the Bank of Ireland, the ancient Par- liament House, in which sat the Irish Parliament before the Union in 1800, and in front of the Bank are the buildings of Trinity Col- lege, founded in 1591 by Queen Elizabeth, and rebiult by Sir W. Chambers. The principal edifice is of Portland stone, and the f agade is 308 feet in length. There are three quadrangles. In Parliament- amongst b}^gono celebrities were Archbishop Usher, Bishop Ber- keley, Swift, Goldsmith, Burke, O'Connell, and Moore. In Dame-street is the Exchange, the interior of which is elegantly decorated. The hall contains a statue of Grattan, and in front is Hogan's statue of O'Connell. Turning into Castle-street, we soon reach Dublin Castle, the viceregal residence since the time DUBLIK CASTLE. square are the museum, dining- hall , and chapel ; in Library-square is the library, containing over 150,000 volumes, besides other curiosities, amongst which may be mentioned the harp of the great Brian Boroimhe. The Magnetic Observatory at Trinity College was the first ever established. The number of students of the College is about 1400, and of Queen Elizabeth, and enter by the principal gateway the upper quadrangle, containing the vice- roy's apartments and offices of the Secretary and other functionaries. The apartments of the Lord Lieutenant, or Viceroy, consist of the presence chamber ; St. Patrick's Hall, which is the State ball-room, and is decorated with historical and allegorical paintings ; and the 42 Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. Council Chamber, containing por- traits of all the viceroys, from Lord Cornwallis in 1800. Not the least attraction is the chapel, built of Irish limestone, and decorated with fine oak carvings. The gallery is surrounded by the arms of the various viceroys from 1173 to 1814. The altar window represents the Passion, and above are figures of Faith, Hope, and Charity. The oldest part of the Castle is the Birmingham Tower, where the records are kept, dating from 1411. In Christ Chinch Place is Christ Church, or the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, the oldest of the cathedral chinches of Dub- lin, some portions of it dating from the eleventh century. It is 230 feet long, in the form of a cross, and in the Norman style. The liturgy in the English lan- guage was first read in Ireland in this church. The music on Sundays is very fine. Among the tombs in the church is one which is said to be that of Earl Strongbow, the first conqueror of Ireland, dated 1170; the effigy represents a warrior in a coat of mail, recumbent, with his wife by his side. It is claimed by some authorities that this tomb is much later, and is indeed that of Earl Desmond, who was be- headed at Drogheda in 1467. St. Patrick's Cathedral. — This church, which is in the early English style, and in the form of a cross, was erected in the year 1362; it is 300 feet long, "and surmounted by a spire. The original structure, however, ante- dated this by many hundred years ; in fact, it is affirmed that St. Patrick erected a place of worship here, which was the site of the well where he originally baptized his converts. Having become exceedingly ruinous, the building was about ten years ago tho- roughly restored at the sole expense of the late Sir Benjamin Guinness,the well-known brewer, at a cost of £150,000. The par- titions were removed, a groined ceiling added, the windows filled with stained glass, and all suitable , appointments supplied. There are numerous monuments in the interior of this cathedral ; that of the Earl of Cork is particularly deserving of notice. The earl and his lady are represented sur- rounded by sixteen of their chil- dren. Close by are two marble slabs, which cover the resting- places of Dean Swift and Mrs. Johnston, the " Stella " of his poetry. The Lady Chapel was formerly used as the chapter- house for the Knights of St. Patrick, and here the Prince of Wales was installed in the year 1868. The principal other churches are St. George's, St. Michan's, St. Audeon's, St. An- drew's, St. TVerburg's, and St. Anne's, containing the tomb of Mrs. Hemans, the poetess. Be- hind the cathedral, in Aungier- street, at No. 12, the poet Moore was born 28th May, 1780. His father, a well-to-do grocer, kept a shop which remains in its iden- tical condition at the present day, and on the first floor is the room where many of the " Irish melo- dies" were written. St. Stephen' s-green is one of the finest squares in the city. On the west side is the Royal College of Surgeons, with a Doric front, the museum of which, readily accessible, contains some objects of interest. In the centre of the Green is Van Nort's statue of George II. On the east side is the Irish Industrial Museum, con- Xante 4.—C0ZK TO DUBLIN. 43 taining a collection of Irish build- ing-stones, and of various articles used in manufacturing pottery, colours, textile fabrics, &c. Turning into Earlsfort-terrace, we soon reach the Exhibition Palace, in which, in 1865, the International Exhibition was held. The buildings and grounds remain as a permanent institution of Dublin. They consist of an exhibition hall, concert rooms, winter garden and promenade, and ornamental pleasure grounds: open daily, admission, Is. Return- ing along the east side of St. Ste- phen' s-green, we enter at the cor- ner of the Green, Merrion-row, passing along which to the right we reach Merrion-street, in which, at No. 24, the Duke of Welling- ton was born in 1769. Close by, at No. 30, Merrion-square, Daniel O'Connell formerly re- sided. On the N. side of the Lein- ster Lawn is the Irish National Gallery, containing some fine paintings and statues ; and oppo- site is the Museum of Natural History. The station of the railway to Kingstown is in West- land-row, a little further on. turning to the right along Great Brunswick-street, and following Clarence-street, we reach the river Liffey at Sir John Roger- son's Quay: those who wish it may cross the river here by the ferry. Returning to Sackville- street, the tourist in going from thence to Phoenix-park will pass on his way the few objects which remain unvisited. Turning out of Sackville-street, and following the river, we pass Wellington, Essex, and Richmond bridges, and, on King's Inn Quay, reach the Four Courts, a magnificent building, in which the courts of justice are held. The river f ac,ade is 450 feet long ; the portico, of the Corinthian order, is supported by six columns, surmounted by a figure of Moses, flanked by Justice and Mercy. The grand hall, 64 feet in diameter, is crowned by a fine dome, and is the great resort of lawyers during term time. Phoenix-park contains 1,750 acres, of which 1,300 are open to the public. The name is derived from two Gaelic words, " fionen uisge" i.e. clear water; referring to a spring in the park. Here is a statue of Lord Carlisle by Foley, and a monument to Lord Chesterfield. Not far from the entrance is the Wellington Testimonial, erected in 1817 by the citizens of Dublin. It is a quadrangular obelisk of granite. On each side of the pedestal are sunken panels with metallic re- presentations, in relief, one re- presenting Wellington crowned with laurel, and the others scenes in the military life of the great commander. The obelisk is 205 feet high, and cost £20,000, or 100,000 dols. The Zoological Garden in the north-east part of the park contains a small col- lection only. The residence of the Lord Lieutenant, called " The Lodge," is in the park; and on the south side is a military school, at which 400 boys, sons of sol- diers, are educated. If a member's order can be ob- tained, it will be found desirable to visit the Royal Irish Academy, in the museum of which is a fine col- lection of antiquities. The Botanic Gardens, at Glasnevin, about two miles off, will also repay a visit : in the cemetery close at hand lie Curran the orator, and Daniel O'Connell. Besides the statues already men- tioned there are several, but none 44 Route 4.— CORK TO DUBLIN. of any conspicuous merit : perhaps the best are those of William III., and the late Smith O'Brien, on Carlisle Bridge. The external appearance of this handsome city has been steadily improving ever since the days of Elizabeth. During the reign of Charles II. four bridges were erected across the river, and when Ireland had her own parliament, enormous sums were lavished upon the adorn- ment and improvement of Dublin. The hotels in Dublin are as follows : — Shelburn, Gresham, Morrison's, MacJcen's, Imperial, Reynolds, Belton, Abbey, AitJcen's and the Temperance. Its popu- lation is 319,985. There are numerous excursions in the vicinity of Dublin, which, if the traveller has time, he will rind pleasant ; and, should he not intend to cross the Channel from Kingstown (eight miles from Dub- lin), he should also make an ex- cursion to that town, which is the harbour of Dubbin, where steamers are arriving and de- parting several times each day to or from England, Scotland, and Wales. Kingstown (population 12,469). This is a somewhat fashionable watering-place, which was in 1821 a miserable fishing village, called Dunleary. On the occasion of George IV. visiting Ireland and landing at this port, its name was changed to Kings- town, and a granite obelisk was erectedto commemorate the event. The harbour is entirely artificial. It is enclosed between two granite piers, nearly a mile long, and is one of the finest in the kingdom ; its cost was two and a half mil- lions of dollars. The railway runs along the pier, where passengers may change immediately to the sailing packet under shelter during stormy weather. The jetty, facing the harbour, is called the Victoria Wharf, in commemoration of Queen Victoria's visits in 1849 and 1861. The principal hotels are Royal Marine, and Angle- sea Arms. A most interesting excursion of three days may be made by continuing on to Bray, a watering-place of very modern construction, Enniskerry, the Dargle, the Seven Churches, Vale of Avoca, and Wicklow. For time-tables, &c, of this ex- cursion, see some of the railway local guides published monthly. An excursion should also be made to the Hill op Howth, at the northern entrance to Dublin harbour. It • rises nearly 6 feet above the level of the sea. Its castle, ruined abbey, and college are well worth a visit. The castle is the family seat of Lord Howth, whose family have held it for the last seven hundred years. The family name was formerly Tristrane, but Sir Ami- rec Tristrane de Valence having won a battle on St. Lawrence's day, then took the name of that saint. The sword of that famous warrior still hangs in the chapel of the castle, where are also the old bells of the abbey. There is rather a romantic story in connection with this family, which, if true, shows the regard posterity has in some in- stances for a pledge given by their ancestors. During the reign of Elizabeth, Grace O'Malley, re- turning from a visit to the queen, landed at Howth, and demanded hospitality of the castle's owner, which he refused, it is said, because he was at dinner. The amazon determined to have re- Route 5.— CORK TO LIMERICK. 45 venge for the insult, and to lie in wait for an opportunity, which happened in finding a child, the heir to the house, within her reach. Having seized him, he was kept in close confinement until she abstracted a vow from the father that on no account hereafter should the castle gates he closed during the hour of dinner, and the promise was most religiously kept until a recent period. There is an old Irish song To swear by I'd be loth." If the tourist should he at Kingstown at sunset, let him visit the end of the east pier near the lighthouse, the view there is full of beauty. The packets leave Kingstown at 6.50 a.m. and 7-15 p.ni. Dalkey Island is reached from Kingston by a line of railway which passes over the old atmo- spheric line. In olden times a curious custom existed of electing a king of this island, and cele- brating the event with grotesque formalities and Bacchanalian orgies. It contains the ruins of an old church and a martello tower. The Hill op Killeney, 474 feet high, situated between Kingston and Bray, may be as- cended by first securing permis- sion of Mr. Warren, of Rutland- square, Dublin. It affords some very interesting views of the sur- rounding country. Ballybrack is the next station beyond Dalkey, and the scenery is there very beautiful. Hotels at Bray : — the hotels are the Royal Marine and International. This town forms the boundary line between the counties of Dublin and Wicklow. From here a jaunting car will convey the tourist to Bray Bridge, which affords a delightful view of The Valley of Diamonds to Dargle, a distance of two and a half miles (fare half a crown) ; the Dark Glen, and the Glen of Oaks. Entering the place last named by a gate for foot passengers oniy, you send the car on to meet you at another gate, and enjoy a most delightful walk through varied scenery of the most wildly picturesque and ro- mantic description, imtil you arrive at the majestically grand sight of Powerscourt Water- fall, where a huge fall of water dashes from rock to rock a dis- tance of 300 feet. Orders for admission to Powerscourt must have been previously obtained from the Agency Office in Ennis- kerry. Powerscourt contains 14,000 acres. The residence on the Lower Hill has been twice honoured by royal visits. From here the picturesque chapel of Kilmacanoge may be reached, and thence the Sugar-loaf, of which will you be siu-e to hear, may be ascended. Route 5. CORK TO LIMERICK. SHE route is the same as that to Killamey as far as Mallow Junction. At Charleville, as we have already stated in Route 4, the tourist quits the Cork and Dublin line, taking the Cork and Limerick Direct Railway, and proceeding at once to Limerick by Bruree (which possesses the ruins of a strong fortress enclosed by a rampart wall), Croom and Patrick's Well. There is little 46 Route 5.— CORK TO LIMERICK. of interest on the route until we reach. Limerick (Hotels i Cruise's Royal, Hoove's, Clare. Popula- tion 67,000), which, in point of commerce, stands fourth in rank among the cities of Ireland, is finely situated on the Shannon Biver, eighty miles from the At- lantic, and consists of the old and new town, the latter, which lies to the east, huilt ahout 80 years manufacture of leather gloves, the material of which is so thin that a pair may easily he placed in the shell of a walnut. It has a considerable trade in butter and other provisions. Vessels of 600 tons can lie at the quays. The commerce of the city, although it has recently been declining is now increasing. The principal object of interest is the Cathe- dral, which dates from the 12th CASTLE OF LIMERICK. ago, and containing some fine streets and squares. The old town is miserable in the extreme, and is reached by Thomond Bridge, rebuilt in 1839. Wel- lesley Bridge,which connects the new town with this part, is a fine structure of five arches. The city depends largely upon the manu- facture of flax. It is celebrated for the production of fish-hooks of excellent quality, and for the century, but was enlarged by Donald O'Brien, king of Lime- rick, in the early part of the 13th. _ A small part only of the original structure remains. Amongst the monuments may be mentioned the tombs of the earls of Limerick, and a splendid one of divers coloured marble to the Earl of Thomond. A very mag- nificent view may be had from the tower, 120 feet in height. A Route Q>.—1)UBLIX TO BELFAST. 47 touching story is told concerning the bells of Limerick Cathedral. They are said to have been the work of an Italian artist, who executed them for a convent in his native place. During the wars between Francis I. and Charles V. three of his sons were sacri- ficed, and the music of these bells was the sole soother of his melan- choly hours. The convent becom- ing impoverished, the bells were sold, and removed to foreign lands. Sad and dejected, the old man started off in search of them. After many years of wandering, he at last one evening took a boat for Limerick, and as he landed, the bells rang out for prayer. The sudden -joy was too much for him, and before the last sounds had vibrated through the air he had joined his sons in their peaceful resting-place above. The other pxiblic buildings are numerous, embracing various places of pub- He worship, a custom-house, banks, free-schools, etc., etc. The town was settled by the Danes in the ninth century, who remained its possessors until their final overthrow by the Irish under Brian Boroinihe in 1014. Immediately after they were ex- pelled, the town became the resi- dence of the kings of Thomond up to the Anglo-Norman invasion. The castle, which was built by King John, was of immense strength, and some of the towers of the walls which still exist show traces of numerous sieges. Cromwell's general, Ireton, who took it by treachery in 1641, died of the plague six months later. Even in its ruinous state, and disfigured as it is by the modern barracks erected within the walls, it is one of the finest existing examples of a Norman keep. At one end of Thomond Bridge is the famous " Treaty Stone," on which, on 3rd October, 1691, was signed a treaty between the Irish commander, who occupied the town, and General de Ginkel, commanderof "William of Orange' s troops, by which the religious privileges formerly enjoyed by the Catholics were secured to them, whilst the reigning sove- reigns pledged themselves to their future protection. Those engage- ments never having been fulfilled, Limerick became known as " The city of the violated treaty." Route 6. DUBLIN TO BELFAST. §JjHE station of departure for Drogheda and Belfast is in Amiens Street. Shortly after starting, we pass Malahide {Hotel: Royal), a town much resorted to for sea-bathing, and celebrated for its oyster beds, and its old church, containing tombs of some of the Talbot family. Near the village is Malahide Castle, the seat of Lord Talbot de Malahide, a square building flanked by round towers. The roof of the grand hall is richly carved, and one of the chambers, called the " Oak Chamber," has a large quantity of elaborate and curious panelling. The collection of pictures is interesting and valuable, among them being a small altar-piece by Albert Durer, and several portraits by Van Dyke, Sir Peter Lely, and others. Passing over the harbour on a wooden viaduct, we reach Sker- ries, the ancient name of which was Holm Patrick. According to tradition, it was here that St. 48 Route 6.— LUBLIN TO BELFAST. Patrick sought refuge when per- secuted by the Druids. Bal- bbiggan, our next station, is noted for the manufacture of stockings, whence we reach Dbogheda (32 miles, pronounced Droyda). {Hotel: Imperial) Po- pulation, 18,763. The town is situated on the River Boyne. It was once siurounded by a wall, of which considerable fragments remain, especially St. Lawrence's Gate and the Butter Gate. Crom- well took the place by an assault which he led in person, in 1649. Clarendon, speaking of the assault, says, " Except some few who during the time of the assault escaped at the other end of the town, there was not an officer, soldier, or religious person be- longing to that garrison left alive. In fact, nothing can exceed the brutality of the conqueror, who even fired a church in which a hundred people had taken refuge and burned them alive. The massacre lasted five days." About one mile from the town, on the banks of the River Boyne, was fought, on 1st July, 1690, the great tattle between James II. and William of Orange, which finally crushed the hopes of the former, who fled to France. Sixty thousand men, equally divided, were engaged, and the prince's general (Schomberg) was killed in the action ; a monument has been erected to his memory. Flax- spinning is the chief employment of the inhabitants . A visit (if you stop at Drogheda) should be made to Mellipont Abbey, distance five miles, and Manastebloice, six miles distant. The round tower of this last dates from the ninth century. There are some fine antique crosses here, the largest of which is twenty- seven feet high, and contains a Gaelic inscription concerning Muredach, a king of Ireland, who died in 534. Dundalk {Hotel : Arthur s) is next reached, a thriving town of more than 10,000 inhabitants, doing a good trade in flax and corn. Except the magnificent bay on which it stands, there is little to see, but the place is historically interest- ing, for here was the last native coronation held, viz., of Ed- ward, brother of Robert Bruce, in 1316. He reigned only two years, being killed in battle with the English at Fobghabd Hill, close by, in 1318. Dundalk House, the seat of Lord Roden, with its grounds, may be visited. Lisbubn {Hotel : Hertford Arms) is the next place of any import- ance, but hardly demands a stay ; the staple of trade is linen. A monument is in the church to the good bishop, Jeremy Taylor. We may now hasten to our desti- nation, — Belfast {Hotels .- Imperial, Royal, Queen's, Commercial. Po- pulation, 174,394). The metro- polis of the North of Ireland, the great seat of the Irish linen trade, and next to Dublin the most im- portant city in Ireland. It is situ- ated on the River Lagan, where it falls into Belfast Lough, on a flat plain amongst hills, which at Divis rise into a peak 1,513 feet high. It is a modern city, its origin scarcely dating beyond the 17th century. The growth of its trade and manufactures is commensurate with its in- crease in population, which is about five times what it was some fifty years ago. Its tall chimneys, immense factories, and spinning- mills, remind the traveller of the great manufacturing towns of . Route 6.— DUBLIN TO BELFAST. a England, though Belfast is almost wholly free from the smoke which disfigures Manchester and other purely manufacturing towns. The streets are wide and regu- larly laid out, well kept and well lighted, and the pxiblic edifices of the city are remarkable not only for their number but their ele- gance. Among those worthy of particular notice are the new City Hall, the Commercial Buildings, with an Ionic facade, built in 1822 ; the Custom House, the Ulster Bank, and the Linen Hali. Of the churches, the only two which will attract attention are the parish church (St. Ann's) and Christ Church ; the former with a lofty tower and cupola, the latter with an octagonal spire. Queen's College is a building in the Tudor style, with a front of 600 feet. It was opened in 1849. The Museum on the north side of College-square contains a valuable collection of Irish antiquities, or- nithological specimens, and a small geological collection. The Botanic Garden, near Queen's Col- lege, was established in 1830. It has a beautiful conservatory, con- structed of iron. Admission, 6d. Belfast is the principal depot of the French linen trade, as well as the chief place of the cotton manufactures of Ireland. Its principal exports are butter, beef, pork, linen, and oatmeal ; and a large trade is carried on with America, the "West Indies, and other parts of the world. The population is 150,000. The harbour is accessible to ves- sels drawing 16 ft., and in spring tides to those drawing 20 ft. The recent street improvements are very extensive, and cost over £500,000. The quays extend on each side of the river— on the western side 5,000 ft., on the eastern 3,500 ft. There are two docks, the Prince's and Claren- don, where foreign vessels have every facility. The offices of the Harbour Commissioners are in a fine Italian building of cut stone, the principal front of which faces Clarendon Dock. If the tourist desires a bird's- eye view of Belfast and its en- virons, he would do well to make a visit to Cave Hill, 2£ miles from the town, so called from three caves in its face. It rises 1,140 feet above the level of the sea. The view over the city, Belfast Lough, and the County Down is very fine. In clear weather the coast of Scotland is included in the view. Tariff of Cars, Hackney Coaches, &c. By distance. Time s. d. s. n. For the hire of a 2 wheeled car- riage (1 horse) per mile 6 Do. do. per hour 1 For every addi- tional half-mile 3 Do. do. half -hour 4 If by the day S 8 For the hire of a 4-wheeled car- riage (1 horse) per mile 8 Do. do. per hour 1 4 For every addi- tional half-mile 4 Do. do. half-hour 6 If by the day ... 10 8 For the hireof two- horse carriages per mile 1 Ditt > ditto per hour 1 8 50 Route 7.— BELFAST TO TORT RUSE. Ireland. By Distance. Time. s. d. s. d. For every addi- tional half -mile 6 Do. do. half -hour 8 If hy the day ... 13 6 Luggage not exceeding 1121ds. is carried free. The tolls must be paid hy the hirer, but no gratuities are tobe given to drivers. Omnibus Fares between Com- mercial Buildings, Botanical Gar- dens, and Queen's College, once hourly, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m., 2d.; Castle Place, York Street, and the Ballymena railway sta- tion, 2d. ; Commercial Buildings, Great Victoria Street, and the Ulster railway station, 2d. ; Com- mercial Buildings, Queen's Quay, wid the Belfast and County Down railway station, l^. Steamers. — See Bradshavo s Guide. Excursions may be made from Belfast to Donaghadee and to Shanes Castle on Lough Neagh, which is the fourth largest lake in Euiope. Donaghadee is a little seaport, and the nearest to the coast of England. Route 7- BELFAST TO PORT RUSH AND THE GIANTS' CAUSE- WAY. /!@£3^HE excursion from Bel- ^^ipy fast to the Giants' Cause- (o^jWl) way and back, via Port ^^5^^ Rush, may be accom- plished in one day by taking the first train to Port Rush, where cars are waiting to convey passengers to the Giants' Causeway, passing Dun- luce Castle, and returning to Port Rush in time for evening train to Belfast. If time permits, by stopping one night at the Giants' Causeway, the tourist may visit Bally Castle, and travel by public car to Lame, on the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway, and will reach Belfast by the next evening. On leaving Belfast the train skirts the shore of Belfast Lough, Carrickfer- gus Junction, Antrim, which city is near Lough Neagh, on a river called the Six Mile "Water. The manufactures of Antrim are linen, hosiery, paper and matting. The hotel here is the Massareene Arms. Close to the town is Andrew Castle, the grounds of which are very hand- some, and visitors may walk through them to the shore of Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United Kingdom. Ballymena. This town has a large linen trade. Coleraine. This old town is celebrated for its salmon fisheries and linen fabrics, called Coleraines. The population is 6,000. The hotel is the Bridge End. We next come to Port Rush. This is situated on a peninsula of basalt, opposite the picturesque rock called The Skerries, and is reckoned as the seaport of Cole- raine. There is good bathing here. Cars can be taken here — as we said before — for visiting the Giants' Causeway. Between Port Rush and Dunluce are the "White Rocks. There are some twenty-seven caverns in these rocks, worn by the action of the water on the limestone. Three miles from here stand the fine old ruins of Dunluce Cas- tle, which stand out 100 feet above the sea, on a precipitous insulated rock, the sides of which are perpendicular with the sides Route 7.— BELFAST TO TORT RUSH, 51 of the castle. A wall eighteen inches wide is the only means hy which the castle is connected with the main land. It is said to have been built by De Courcy, Earl of Ulster. Proceeding from Dun- luce we reach Bush Mills, on the Biver Bush. The hotel here is the Imperial. We next reach northerly line with and some twenty miles distant west from the lowest point of the Scottish Mull of Cantire. It consists of nearly one-fifth of a mile (1,000 feet) of a vast collection of upright basaltic columns, stupendous in size, varied in shape (as to the mimber of sides of each crystal), PORTCOOX CAVE. the Giants' Causeway, a won- derfully remarkable region, which the tourist should contrive to in- vestigate, for this causeway is really one of the most stupendous and wonderful of Nature's freaks. It is at the extremity of the coast of Antrim and almost at that of the island, nearlv in a and so fitted to each other that no hands but those of the Divine Architect could have so arranged them. They should be walked over, boated round (and into the caves) when the weather and a sea smooth enough will allow. The breadth of the principal causeway, which runs on in one Route 1. —BELFAST TO PORT RUSH. continued range of columns, is from 20 to 30 ft, ; at one or two places it may be 40 ft. for a few yards. "We shall not attempt a scientific description of the peculiar formation of this mar- vellous freak of Nature, nor have we the time or space to embody the conflicting theories of different learned writers on the subject. There is, however, one to whom causeway we walk over the heads of some 4000 columns, all beauti- fully cut and polished, com- mencing with the triangular, and ending with the nonagon, nine-sided. A fine excursion may be made along the coast to Belfast, and from there to Glasgow. Or by taking steamer at Port Rush we may go on to Londonderry via THE CHIMNEY TOPS, NEAB THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. the thing is no mystery — one John M'Laughlin, whose name will be given you at the Antrim Arms, one of the best guides to the causeway. John sells photo- graphs, and he will be sure to caution you against a poor weird, w,ld, laughing, leaping young rival of his — a woman who way- lays you with photographs for sale. When inspecting the the Junction at Coleraine, a dis- tance of forty miles. There is from the Antrim coast to the Rocky Isles a swinging bridge, which consists of two parallel ropes, secured to rings lot into the rock on each side of the yawning gulf. Crossing-cords are used to support planks la d loosely upon them. This rmighly- construced bridge sways in ihe Route 9.— BUB LI X TO GAL WAY. 53 wind, and the planks are not even tied. It is principally used by the fishermen, who, when the season is over, remove their bridge. We pass next Bally Castle, a town on the north coast of Antrim, in a sheltered valley between the high sea-coast and the base of Knocklaid Mountain. It is neat and well built, and has several excellent institutions and good public buildings. The picturesque ruins, Bonarnargy Monastery, are at the east entrance of the valley. Population about 1,690. We then pass Cushenden, a village. The road crosses the Glendrun river by a viaduct supported by arches. "We next come to the castle of the Earl of Antrim, at Glenarm, close to the town, and surrounded by a splendid park. Twelve miles further on we reach Larne. {Hotel : King's Arms.) It is well built, has an harbour for small vessels, lioen manufac- tories, bleach works, rope works, coal, timber, slate, and lime works, and does some trade in provisions. The population is 3,422. Between thirteen and fourteen miles further on we come to Carrickfergus. (Hotel : Victoria). The castle, built by the De Coivrcys, which is stiil habitable, and the church, are the chief objects of interest here. William III. landed here in 1690, before the battle of Boyne. Route 8. DUBLIN TO KILKENNY. — ^HE route from Dublin to 3/>(1a ^ildare is already given wWo) on page 29. At Kildare we proceed via the Irish South Eastern Railway to Kilkrnny, l'eaching Carlow, upon the river Barrow. The ruinous castle is one of great his- toric interest, which was erected by de Hugh Lacy. The Club House is the Hotel. We pass on to Kilkenny. The population is 13,235. The streets arepaved with black marble. The ancient ruins of its monasteries, churches, and abbeys are all in- teresting, and its walls, bastions, and towers prove it to have been a place of great importance. The industries are distifling, brewing, flour-making, and tanning. It is a telegraph station. Thirty miles farther on is the seaport of Water- ford, with a population of 23,000: but the place has not much to in- terest the tourist. Route 9. DUBLIN TO GALWAY. fHE first place of interest is Maynooth, which contains a Roman Ca- tholic College for the education of the Catholic clergy. It receives 500 students, 250 of whom are maintained free ; founded in 1795. The popula- tion here is 2,091. It has a telegraph station. We next reach Mulllngar, containing barracks for a thousand soldiers. It is a large market for agricultural produce, cattle, and horses. Ballinasloe. Is chiefly noted for its great wool fair and cattle market, held every October; 12,000 head of black cattle, and 90,000 sheep, are annually dis- posed of in this market. Galway, a city of 16,446 in- habitants, separated from King's County and Tipperary by the River Shannon. It has important 54 i 10.— CORK TO YOUGHAL. fisheries and also breeds large quantities of cattle. Its products are iron, lead, marble, limestone, and copper. The population is 16,478. The hotels are Railway and Black's. Dublin to Holyhead, leaving Dublin by the "Western Row Station to Kingstown. The hotels are Royal and Anglesey Arms. Dublin to London. The entire distance from Dublin to London is done in twelve hours, although it is 330 miles. A splendid view is obtained when the steamer nears the Welsh Coast : Holyhead and the ad- joining coast is exceedingly fine. On landing at Holyhead cars will be found waiting, and very little time is lost in changing from steamer to train. Dublin to Greenock. Start- ing from Belfast by one of the Royal Mail line steamers which leave at 8 p.m. on every week- day, we reach Greenock in time for the early morning train to Glasgow, which is 20 miles distant. Route 10. CORK TO YOUGHAL AND BLACKWATER. Starting from the ^•2 terminus on Summer- V jj hill at Cork by one of t^) the trains which run between Cork and the far-famed river Blackwater three times a day ; in about two hours we reach the famous Munster water- ing-place, Blackwater, which has been called the Rhine of Ireland. Youghal is a seaport on the south side, near the mouth of the Blackwater, twenty-six miles from Cork. It consists of one large street and suburbs built on a slope, with steep cross lanes and alleys. Here is the house in which Sir Walter Raleigh lived, called Myrtle Grove ; it is a simply constructed old house, and contains some interesting decora- tive carved woodwork of the Elizabethan period. In the gar- den attached to it the first potatoes ever seen in Ireland were planted It is said that when first cooked they were so small andbad as to be considered worth- less until the ground containing the remainder being again dug up for the reception of other plants, the roots were found so large and promising that another trial was made, to which all the countless wealth of potatoes since grown in Ireland owe their origin. It was while smoking in his gar- den that one of Sir Walter s maid- servants, observing with horror smoke rising from her master's mouth, dashed a pail of water into his face, supposing him to be on fire. About a mile and a half to the north-east of the town is a timber bridge 1,787 ft. long and 22 ft. wide, uniting the counties of Cork and Waterford. Hotel : the Devonshire Arms. There is a pleasant trip by steamer from here to Cappoquin {Hotel : Morriseys). Iceland. Route 11 — LIMERICK TO GAL WAY. 5-5 Route 11. LIMERICK TO GALWAY, CONG, GLENDALOUGH, AND CLIFDEN. ft^MROCEEDING by steamer ^/(ivy ^° Kilrush, a distance of $)'rpS 48 miles, we pass on the ^gp| left Tervob, the resi- dence of Colonel Mon- sell, M.P., on the right Cratloe Wood, and reach Foynes. Two miles onward we touch at Tar- bert, cross the river, leave Carrig Island on the left, and pass Scat- ter// Island, which contains the ruins of seven churches with the remains of one of the ancient Irish round towers, and arrive at Kilrvsh, a sea-port town in the county of Clare, with a popula- tion of 500. Landing here we take a car to the poor little village of Kilkee, two miles from which is the famous Cave of Kilkee, a curious and interesting place sur- rounded by romantic and pictur- esque scenery. From Kilkee the road is pursued to Miltoivn Malbay. On the rocks of this wild coast some vessels of the invincible " Spanish Armada " were dashed to pieces. Two miles north of this village is the Atlantic hotel, where summer visitors who come to enjoy the sea bathing, bracing air, and splendid scenery of this locality usually stay. Near here is the loftiest cliff on the Irish coast, called Horseshoe Cliff. Eight miles beyond this- is the village of Lochmell at Liscannas Bay, from whence the famous Cliffs of Moher may be reached, which at one point attain the height of 668 feet. From thence we take the road along the coast to Ballyvaughan on Galway Bay. Galway, "the city of the tribes," is a picturesque old c't ', believed to be of Spanish origin, and one which in olden time was famous as a seaport where a great trade with Spain had its seat. Some English families settled here in 1172. Its chief objects of interest are Queens College, St. Nicholas Church, the choir of which was built by one of the town's ancient benefactors, the Lynches, some old Spanish-looking houses, some remains of one of the old city gates, and Lynch Castle, to a circumstance in the history of which the term " lynch law " is probably traceable. In 1493'the owner of this castle, James Fitzstephen Lynch, the head of a large and influential family in Galway, was Mayor or "Warder of the city. His son, "Walter, had secretly been guilty of piracy and murder ; and one of his con- federates, being on his death-bed, made known these horrible facts to the Warder, who, finding the charge only too well sustained, sternly surrendered his son into the hands of justice. He was fairly tried and justly condemned to die, but his relatives yielding to the tears and entreaties of the mother, who had vainly tried to move her husband, armed their friends and relatives on the morning appointed for the young man's execution and resolved to rescue him. The son came forth to meet his doom leaning on the father's arm, and cries for mercy rent the air. The Mayor recog- nizing the citizens' intention to rescue the criminal, earnestly besought them, in the holy name of Justice, not to violate their country's laws, but in vain. At length, .perceiving that his son 56 Route 12.— CLIFDEN TO SLIGO. would be torn from the guards, he drew him back within the castle, and leading him up the tower stairs to an arched window overlooking the street, he fastened a rope to an iron staple projecting from the outer wall, and making a noose placed it about the neck of his son, bade him adieu with an agonised embrace, and, while a shriek of horror burst from the turbulent citizens beneath, with one desperate thrust launched him into eternity. Then he calmly awaited his own fate, expecting nothing but death, lynch Castle is in Lombard Street, and over the front door- way is a skull and cross bones in black marble with the motto " Remember Deathe — Vaniti of vaniti, and all is but vaniti." James Lynch, after the death of his son, shunned all intercourse with his fellow-citizens, and shut himself up in constant prayer and momTiing for the rest of his life. While at Galway the tourist should visitT he Cl ADD AGH the fishermen of which — a pecu- liar race — had for very many years their own distinct laws and their own king, together with many curious and interesting cus- toms. From this spot a tour to the "Western Highlands of Ire- land may be commenced by taking steamer for Cong, a vil- lage 24 miles distant, at the northern extremity of Lough, Corrib, and proceeding thence by car to Clifden. At Cong are many places worth visiting by lovers of natural curiosities, and there is an old abbey, in which resided up to the time of his death, Roderick Connor, the last King of Connaught and Ireland. The mai-ket cross of Cong is curious, and there is a cave of some interest in the neighbouring demesne of Ashford, which is always open to visitors. The twelve miles from Cong to Maam will introduce the tourist to some pleasantly varied scenery, and five miles beyond, by a side road, he will reach the country cottage in the mountains known as the Half-way Souse, where it is well to bespeak a car before leaving Galway. Seven miles from here is Glendalottgh. {Hotels — the Glendalough and the Recess) and from this place to Clifden is a distance of 14 miles. On the road you will pass Lough Ballynahinch, where are the remains of an ancient castle. Ballynahinch was an- ciently the seat of the now extinct but once rich and power- ful Martin family. Six miles beyond the marble quarries stands Clifden, a modern town, small in size, and prettily situated, founded by the late John D'Arcy, Esq. {Hotels — Mullarkey's New and Carrs). In 1815 there was but one house standing at Clifden. From here a ride or walk of a mile along the cliffs will afford the tourist some fine views of stormy coast scenery, and other excursions will provide him with a variety of wild mountain scenes which have been compared to those of Switzerland. A fine view may be obtained from Cloughhanard Hill, and the Clifden falls are very fine. Route 12. 'CLIFDEN TO SLIGO. £ E take the road from Clif - , den to Letterfrack, a settlement founded by the Society of Friends, a thriving little town, Route 12.—CLIFDEN TO SLIGO. 57 seven miles distant from Clifden. Hotel — Mrs Casson's. From here the Diamond Mountain may be ascended. Two miles onward we cross the river Dawcross by a bridge from which we obtain a view of the forest Pass of Kyle- more. We next reach Killer)/ Bay, in the midst of rocky and mountainous scenery of great beauty, and from thence Lee- nane, in the midst of most romantic scenery. From this place a visit may be paid by boat to Delphi, Dhulough, and Salruek Pass, or to the islands of Killery Bay. For Delphi and Dhulough you land at Bundarry Quay, and have a mile and a half walk to the former place, and one of a mile farther to the latter. From Leenane we wind along the shores of Killery Bay and the Err iff through wildly picturesque scenery of a varied kind, a distance of 18 miles, to Westport {Hotels — Railway and Imperial) a large and once flourishing town close to the domain of the Marquis of Sligo, to the park and beautiful gardens of which visitors are freely ad- mitted. In the mansion some interesting curiosities and por- traits exist. The famous ruins of Castle of Carrig-a-Hooley, one of the wonderful amazon, Granna Uaile's strongholds, and Barri- shoole Monastery are within a walk of this place. AVhile here you should take a car to the deeply venerated and magnificent Reek of Croagh Patrick. Having obtained a guide, in commencing the ascent remember with the ambitious, that " To climb steep hills, requires slow pace at first." In about an hour and a half you reach the siunmit, and at a height of 2,530 feet overlook a most extensive and interesting expanse of country. It was on this height, if tradition may be credited, that St. Patrick ciu-sed the venomous toads and reptiles, and banished them for ever from the " Emerald Isle." On Pattern day (qneei'e patron ? ) and Garlic Friday it is said that thousands flock to this holy spot from all parts of the surrounding country to go round it on bare knees or feet over a rough flinty path of loose stones. This is called per- forming " stations." Here, for fourteen years, lived and was buried an eccentric character, called " Bob of the heek," of whom your guide will probably tell you. " 'Tvras on the top of this high hill St. Patrick preached his sarmint, That drove the frogs into the hogs, and bothered all the varmint." A considerable number of coast- ing vessels, called Hookers, carry on trade between Westport, Gal- way, and Sligo, and you may here avail yourself of one of these to visit the island-studded expanse of Clew Bay and Clare Island, so intimately associated with the fierce west- country chieftainess, Granna, who lorded it on land and sea over the tribes and clans of Mayo, and afforded Queen Elizabeth so much amusement at Hampton Court, where she appeared in all her savage wildness of costume and pride. Her skull was for- merly preserved at Burrishoole (the place of owls), and after- wards, or perhaps at the same time, unless she had two, at Clare Island. It is not there now. Granna Uaile is sometimes called Grace O'Malley ; and from a son of hers, born at sea and therefore 5S Route lo.— BELFAST TO GLASGOW. Ireland. called " Tobaduah - na - Lung,' ' (Toby of the snip) the present noble family of Mayo are said to be descended. There are the re- mains of a Cistercian Abbey on tbe western side of tbis island, where Grace was buried. Tbe sea cliffs here are very grand. From Westport train is now taken, via Castlebar, the princi- pal town of Mayo, with a popu- lation of 4,000, to Sligo, in the neighbourhood of -which are a series of beautiful drives and interesting objects. Population, 11,000. The ruins of Sligo Abbey are well worth visiting, and so is Lough Gill about three miles from the town. Hotels — Imperial and Victoria. If the tourist is inclined to visit Bundoran and Ballyshannon he may do so by Walsh's mail cars, which leave Sligo twice a day. Eolte 13. BUBLIX TO HOLYHEAD, FOR ENGLAND. |£2^SJHE mail steamers leave \ -.-j/ivls: Kingston every morning (d^^FS at 6.15, and every even- %&$%& ing at 6.45, starting from Carlisle P/er,which may be reached by train from Dublin. The passage, which usually occupies between three and four hours, affords the tourist a series of the most interesting views, ending in the "Welsh har- bour at Holyhead, from whence railways run to all the principal cities and towns of England. By taking train to Fleetwood passengers may book through from there to London. Eoute 14. BELFAST TO NEWEY. 5 EOM the Victoria Station, or from the Queen's Bridge Station at Bel- fast, we may start for Newry. By the latter — Bangor line— we go via Downpatrick and Newcastle, taking car for Kilkeel, and thence round the Moume Mountains by the coast road. By the former we proceed along the valley of the Lagan to Lisbum. Passing over the principal features of this route, we arrive at Newry and go on to Warrenpoixt. [Hotels — Victoria and Crown), or proceed beyond by omnibus to the delightful little watering place of Eostrevor. When we have had out fill of the beautiful scenery of this interesting lo- cality Ave may proceed to Kil- keel, whence the return journey may be made by Cranfield Point, at the mouth of Carling- pord Bay, Greencastle, and Eostrevor. Eolte 15. BELFAST TO GLASGOW. )NE of the royal mail line of steamers leaves Belfast for Greenock every day of the week, at 8 p.m., and on its arrival meets the train which leaves Greenock for Glasgow, a distance of 20 miles. SCOTLAND. ' Zand of the Mountain and the Flood,, Land of brown heath and shaggy wooc SCOTLAND. ROUTES. Eoute Page 1. Glasgow and the Clyde to Greenock 66 2. Glasgow and Lanark to Ayr 69 3. Glasgow to Carlisle 71 4. Glasgow to Carlisle and Annan by Dumfries 73 5. Glasgow to Oban and Inverary 75 6. Oban to Staffa and IONA 76 7. Oban to Glencoe ... 77 8. Oban to Inverness ... 78 9. Loch Eil to Loch Lochy 80 10. Glasgow to Edinburgh 81 Eoute Page 11. Edinburgh to Leith and Eoslin 90 12 Edinburgh to Kinross and Loch Leven ... 93 13 Edinburgh to Stir- ling 93 14 Stirling to Glasgow 96 15 Edinburgh to Perth and Inverness ... 99 16 Perth to Aberdeen 104 17 Aberdeen to Bal- moral 107 18 Perth to Dundee... 107 19 Melrose to Gala- shiels and Pen- rith 108 INTRODUCTION. HEN the Romans had conquered the Britons and extended their sway into the south of Scotland, two distinct nations were found inhabiting the high- lands — the Picts and Scots, — who, aided hy their "barren, rugged country, into which the Roman troops found it too diffi- cult to penetrate, not oidy defied their power, but were such troublesome neighbours that a huge protecting wall was built with towers at frequent intervals between the two great Friths of the Clyde and the Forth to hold them in check. The savage tribes assemhling in their full strength swarmed over this wall, carrying terror and destruction into the cultivated lands and handsome towns of the Romans, and easily regaining their moun- tain fastnesses when they were in danger of defeat. Conse- quently a new and stronger wall had to be built in a situation more remote from the mountain strongholds of these terrible savages, and up to the time of the departure of the Romans the remedy was found an effective one. Afterwards, the Britons "being unable to cope with these INTRODUCTION. 61 foes alone, called in the Saxons, ■with -whose aid they drove hack the Picts and Scots. The Saxons themselves then settled in Eng- land, after driving off the Britons into their highlands, -where, like the Picts and Scots, they too held their own. Then the Scots and Picts fell to fighting amongst themselves, the result heing that the Picts were all either slain or driven out of the country. The land -was now the Scots' — Scotland, — hut to them came the Danes, burning, killing, and de- stroying, and settling down in their towns here and there as colonists. And after the conquest of England by the Normans, there came to them droves of terror-stricken Saxons, headed by the remaining members of the Saxon royal f amil}*. These exiles settled down in the lowlands, where they exercised a civilizing influence, and the king of Scot- land, Malcolm III., married Margaret, the sister of Edgar Etheling, who was the rightful heir to the English throne. Many of the N.ormans being dis- satisfied with the conduct of "William the Conqueror also came into Scotland, and were hos- pitably received by the king, who granted them lands on cer- tain conditions which gave rise to the feudal system in Scotland, and accounts for the fact that so many of the Scottish nobility are, like the English, of Norman descent. Malcolm was easily induced to make the cause of his royal brother-in-law his own, and hence arose a series of wars between the two countries, in one of which both he and his son were slain. By the marriage of the learned Norman, Henry I. of England, with Maud, the daugh- ter of Malcolm, the royal families of England, Scotland, and Nor- mandy became united. Upon Henry's death, Stephen, Earl of Montague, seized the English crown to the exclusion of the late English king's daughter, Maud, and naturally her uncle, the King of Scotland, David I., took her part. Again, therefore, war raged between England and Scotland. David assembled a vast army consisting of Scots, Danes, Saxons, Normans, Britons, or Welsh, and the savage tribes of Galloway, supposed by some to have been the sole remaining representatives of the Picts ; and the English made great prepara- tions to meet him. "When the two armies were face to face an aged Norman baron whose estates were in both countries, named Bobert Bruce — ancestor of that namesake of his who was so famous a King of Scotland — went to David with proposals of peace, but being insulted re- nounced his allegiance to the Scot- tish king, and returned to fight on the side of the English. Then ensued the terrible " Battle of the Standard," which forced the Scotch to make peace with Eng- land. At the time of his death David held Lothian, Cumberland, Northumberland, and a great por- tion of "Westmoreland. He was succeeded by his grandson, Mal- colm, called from his gentleness " the Maiden," who did homage to the English king, Henry II. , for possessions he held in the north of England. His brother "William, surnamed, from the armorial bearing he adopted, the Lion, succeeded Malcolm, and being taken prisoner while bravely fighting with the Eng- lish who accidentally* surprised 62 INTRODUCTION. him, received very insulting- treat- ment, and was compelled to do homage not only for his English possessions, but also for his crown. This cowardly won claim to homage for the Scottish crown was renounced by Richard Cceur de Lion, who retained his right of receiving homage for the Scot- tish king's English possessions only, and for a time peace reigned between these close and so inti- mately allied neighbours, the re- sult being that the two nations began to blend through the chan- nels of commerce and friendly intercourse. William the Lion was succeeded by his Avise and brave young son, Alexander II. , who espoused the cause of the English barons against King- John, but in the reign of Henry III. the two countries were so friendly that the English frontiers were given into the Scotch king's charge for protection during the English king's visit to his domi- nions in France. The Danes and Norwegians invaded Scot- land in the reign of Alexander III., and being defeated at the battle of Largs, they lost the sovereignty of the Island of Man and the islands on the western coast of Scotland, which up to that time they had contrived to hold securely. Alexander met his death by an accident on a spot which to this day bears the name of King's Crag, and the oldest existing specimen of the Scottish lan- guage is the elegy in which his death is mourned. The crown of Scotland then fell into the lap of Margaret, a granddaughter of Alexander's and daughter of Eric, King of Norway, known in his- tory as " The Maid of Norway." Edward I. of England, a wise, brave, and just, but ambitious king, proposed a marriage be- tween Margaret and his son, which was prevented by the Maid of Norway's death. There was then no direct heir to the Scot- tish throne, and at once twelve powerful claimants sprang up, each demanding the crown as his sole right, and each opposed by the other's. Trouble and civil war in its most terrible aspect threatened the land, and its per- plexed councillors resolved in their despair to appoint the English kin g umpire for deciding amongst these fierce rivals which should reign, andforaid to enable them to forci- bly put down opposition. Unable to resist so favourable an opportu- nity of making conditions, Edward revived the old claim of England to the homage of Scotland, as a just right which he would never consent to waive. Angry, bitter, and indignant, but helpless, the Scottish councillors reluctantly assented, and the greedy candi- dates eagerly did so, each of the latter apparently believing that Edward could be won by bribes of sufficient magnitude to adopt his special cause. Bruce was one of the disappointed claimants. Baliol was the chosen claimant, and duly did homage as the liege vassal and subject of England on the 20th November, 1292. But the Scottish king was not the Scottish nation, and between the dissatisfaction of Scotland and the exactions of England, Baliol found the wearing of a crown made his head particularly uneasy. Stung with fear and bitter with shame he therefore entered into a league with France, and formally renounced his state of vassalage. War was proclaimed, INTRODUCTION. 63 and Edward— with whom fought the rival claimant, Bruce, — gained a great hattle near Dunbar. Baliol made a most humiliating submission, Bruce was snubbed for once more advancing his claim, and Edward removed from Scotland the records of the king- dom, and the chair or throne con- taining that mysterious stone which is still preserved at Lon- don in Westminster Abbey (see page 101). Scotland was treated in every respect as a conquered country, and the chief Scottish fortresses were garrisoned with English soldiers. The proud, brave Scots were conquered but not submissive, and the bitterness they could not conceal generated the hatred and contempt which made their bondage increasingly cruel and degrading. Then arose William Wallace, daring and brave, but remorselessly cruel in his intense hatred of the English ; and then commenced that des- perate struggle for liberty which the world ever has and ever will regard with feelings of deepest interest and admiration. Never, did men right more obstinately and fiercely, or revenge^hemselves more cruelly, than the Scots did then. Edward hurried from Flanders, and heading a great army marched rapidly into Scot- land. The armies met at Fal- kirk, and the Scots were defeated. Wallace was outlawed, and lived the life of a wild hunted animal in caves and woods, until he was at length taken near Glasgow through the treachery of a sup- posed friend, Sir John Menteith, brought to England, tried at Westminster Abbey, found guilty of treason, condemned to death, and duly executed. Robert the Bruce, grandson of the Bruce who fought against Baliol ; and John Comyn, who had taken part with Wallace, now continued the brave resistance Wallace had begun. Prudent and thoughtful as well as daring and brave, Bruce was unscrupulously ambi- tious. Comyn was the rival of Bruce in claiming the crown of Scotland, and Bruce first quarrel- ling with this rival murdered him in the church at Dumfries, and at once set up his claim as the only heir, causing himself to be at once crowned King. Edward hearing this, old, feeble and sickly though he was, promptly assembled and headed his hastily formed army. The Earl of Pem- broke met the Bruce and utterly routed him near Methven. Bruce and the Douglas, with a few brave adherents, escaped the slaughter, and lived the hard and desperate lives of outlaws, endur- ing cold and hunger and meeting with numerous hair-breadth es- capes from death at the hands of false friends and merciless foes. Driven from place to place, per- forming prodigies of strength, en- durance and valour, he took refuge in Ireland, during the winter of 1306. In the island of Arran which lies in the mouth of the Clyde, he and Sir James Douglas formed new plans for returning to Scotland, and for making a fresh and most desperate attempt. With a little troop of about sixty men the great business com- menced in a kind of guerilla warfare, gradually assuming greater consequence and import- ance, until once more the brave old lion of England was aroused, and marching for Scotland, but only to die worn out with age, fatigue, and sickness before his foes were in sight, three miles 64 INTRODUCTION. from the Scottish frontier. Edward II., his son, retreated without righting, and the canse of Bruce from that horn- assumed a more hopeful aspect. The Scottish nobility losing the fear with which Edward I. had in- spired them, rose in great strength, and the possession of Scotland was slowly but surely won, the Scottish army swelling as it marched, and victory after victory inspiring it with con- fidence and valour. The crown- ing glory came for Bruce in the great battle of Bannockburn, so nobly sung by Bums, and once more Scotland was a free and independent country, rapidly growing in power and greatness. Without dwelling upon the dis- union which soon afterwards arose xmder the regency of the stern but able Randolph, Earl of Murray, and the complications which followed in the regency of the Earl of Mar, the nephew of Robert Bruce, or the long story of how the right of Baliol to the crown of Scotland was revived and successfully established, we must note that once more the claim of England to the homage of Scotland for her crown was advanced by Edward III. , which, to establish himself more firmly on the throne by English aid, was admitted by Baliol. Then the patriots arose, headed by the great Douglas, and drove him out of Scotland. War w r as again proclaimed between the two countries; the armies met near Berwick, the Scotch were beaten, and once more Scotland was a conquered but still desperately struggling country. But France being at war with England came to the aid of the oppressed Scotch; Edinburgh Castle and other fortresses were retaken, and at length the nephew of king Robert Bruce, David II., was crowned. Truces were made and broken,battles after battles fought and won, sometimes by one side, sometimes by the other. The first of the Stuart race succeeded David II. ; the war with Eng- land smouldered or flamed, for the Scotch were true to the descrip- tion of the Douglas, who said, " Our Scottish people will endure pillage, and endure famine, and every other extremity of war ; but they will not endure an Eng- lish master." The lowland and highland Scotch got to logger- heads, quarrels and dissension arose amongst the nobles, James I. was murdered, the young Earl of Douglas was murdered by Chancellor Crichton ; then fol- lowed the wars with the Dou- glasses, troubles with the high- landers, fresh wars with England, the marriage of James IV. with the daughter of Henry VII., the invasion of England by James IV. , and his death at the disastrous battle of Flodden, the struggles of the Douglasses and Hamiltons one against the other, the disquieting effects of the Reformation, and the war be- tween Scotland and England which it originated. These things we can but mention. To end our summary we need only the last words of the unhappy James V.: — " It came with a lass and it will go with a lass," w r hen he heard of the birth of his daugh- ter, the hapless Mary Stuart, whose son was the first Scottish king of Great Britain. James arrived in England in 1603, on the 7th of May, and from that date Scotland ceased to exist as a separate kingdom. SCOTLAND. INTRODUCTION. 65 Scotland is the northern divi- sion of Great Britain, is situated between 54° 37' and 58° 42' north latitude, and between 1° 47' and 6° T west longitude from Green- wich,and is surrounded by the sea on all sides except at the south, which is separated from England partly by the Tweed and other streams, and by the high grounds in that quarter. The Caledonia of the Romans was that part of Scotland which lies north of the Firth of Forth and Clyde, from which name the people were 'ailed Caledonians, or Picts. The name Scotland came from a tribe of Scots which emigrated to Cale- donia in the 11th century. They settled in the county of Argyle, and, though small in number, their chief married a daughter of one of the Pictish kings. Its coast presents the most won- derful irregularities, jutting into the ocean in high peninsulas, then receding inland, forming gulfs, and starting seaward, again form- ing into bold headlands. The extreme length of Scotland is 280 miles ; its breadth is about 146 miles more or less, according to position. A late writer tries to prove that the actual Scots are small in number, and confined mostly to the county of Argyle. The surface of Scotland is most varied and ir- regular. The main land consists of about twenty-five thousand square miles, with nearly five hundred square miles of fresh- water lakes. One-third of the land is arable, and is divided into Lowlands and Highlands. The latter inchide the Hebrides, Ork- ney, and Shetland Islands, with the northern counties. The Low- lands, comparatively level, in- clude a great deal of country that is mountainous, and low when taken with the northern portion. The climate of Scotland is extremely variable on account of its seaward exposure, but cold and heat are not so intense as they are in similar latitudes of other countries. The most noted of the mountains of Scotland is the chain in the Highlands — the Grampians — which begins near Loch Etive in the county of Argyle, and ends near the mouth of the Dee on the eastern coast. The population of Scotland is about 3,062,300 ; the increase in the years from 1851 to 1861 was about six per cent. Ben Nevis, the highest moun- tain, is 4,905 feet above sea level. In the Lowlands Heartfell and Lowthers are more than 3,000 feet high. The principal rivers are the Forth, Tweed, Clyde, Spey and Tay. The Clyde is second in size : the River Tay coming first, it is navigable for the largest ships as far as Glasgow. The principal lakes of Scotland are Loch Awe, Loch Lomond, Loch Tay, Loch Katrine, Loch Earne, Loch Ness,LochLevenand Loch Oich, which for beauty and Alpine grandeur is not surpassed on the Continent. Loch Leven is celebrated on account of the castle on one of its islands, having been once a prison where the celebrated Mary Queen of Scots was im- prisoned ; it is also noted for its trout fisheries. Scotland is largely engaged in cotton linen and iron manufac- turing. Nearly three-fourths of the great iron ships built in Great Britain are constructed at the great ship works on the Clvde. The ai able land lies along the sea shore Route!.— GLASGOW TO GREENOCK. Scotland. and the rivers. 14,000,000 acres is adapted to the pasturage of sheep. The seasons are considerably later than they are in England. respects the first. It has a popu- lation of between three and four hundred thousand ; is busy and thriving in every detail of com- merce* and industry j and is pro- BASS BOCK, GERMAN OCEAN. Route 1. GLASGOW AND THE CLYDE TO GREENOCK. ' UPPOSING our tourist ^ to have accompanied us v)j, from Ireland to Glas- Jr-ks) gow, we shall now make our first tour in Scot- land as above. Glasgow, situated on the Clyde, is second in importance of the cities of Scotland, and in some bably a little more like New York than any other city of the Eastern World. In connection with Greenock and the banks of the Clyde is an immense busi- ness in iron shipbuilding, and no small amount of interest is to be found in visiting the great yards, with their foundries. It seems le- gitimate, by the way, that these " Clyde-built steamers" should supply nearly half the world, as they do — for the first steamer ever built in Europe is said to have been launched here (in 1812). It Scotland. Route I.— GLASGOW TO GREENOCK. 67 has a very extensive shipping and coasting trade. Hotels: Maclean's, Queen's, the Royal and the George. Architecturally, and in public grounds, Glasgow has many charms and much historical and romantic interest. The Cathedral, belonging to the twelfth century, contains many fine monuments and a very noble series of painted windows, by Munich artists. A short distance from it is a fine cemetery called the Necropolis. The town has five handsome bridges crossing the Clyde, and splendid quays along the river front. Here is the Broomielaw , certainly one of the finest river- side drives in Europe. The Glasgow University is of high repute as a seat of learning. Bishop Turnbull founded it in 1450. The Cathedral, St. Mungo, is a very noble Gothic edifice, built by the celebrated architect, Sir G. Gilbert Scott, R.A. ; it has superseded the old buildings, and now crowns the summit of Gilmore Hill. Not far from it, on the Great "Western Road, is the very handsome Episcopal Church — St. Mary' s — by the same architect. The Royal Exchange in Queen Street, a magnificent structure, in the Corinthian style, was erected ,"in 1829. The front is a fine portico, surmounted by a cupola. The chief room is a large hall, supported by rows of columns. The equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in bronze, by Marochetti, is in front of the Exchange, erected at a cost of £10,000, by subscription. Glasgow has two fine parks, West End, or Kelvin Grove Park, and South Side, or Queen s Park. The first contains forty acres, situated in a ^beautifully pictu- resque locality. Nearly adjoining it are the Botanic Gardens. George Square, one the finest in the city, has various monu- ments. One of them, to Sir Walter Scott, is a Doric column, about 80 feet in height, and is crowned with a statue of Sir Walter on top. In the south- west corner of the square is a statue of JameSjWatt, by Chant- rey. Sir Robert Peel's bronze statue stands in the north-west comer. Near these are the statues of Lord Clyde and Sir John Moore, both natives of Glasgow. The only picture gallery in Glasgow is " Corporation Gal- leries," in M'Lellan Buildings, Sauchiehall Street. It consists of three handsome rooms, contain- ing copies of many of the most celebrated masters, and some few originals by the old masters. The best pictures in the gallery were bequeathed by A. M'Lellan, Esq. The city is principally supplied with water from Loch Katrine, 40 miles distant. More water is used in proportion to the number of inhabitants than in any city in the world, the daily supply being 23,000,000 gallons'. The Mechanics' Institute is worthy of notice. It has a fine library, and a talented corps of professors, who lecture to young mechanics on the subjects of philosophy, chemistry, languages, and subj ects of ordinary education. The Royal Bank, situated behind the Exchange, is a very beautiful building. Steamers leave Glasgow many times a day for Greenock. The tourist desirous of seeing the great iron ship -building works, should take the trip, as Route I.— GLASGOW TO GREENOCK. Scotland. it can be done in a few hours. Two miles below the city, at Govan, the great establishment of Napier and Sons is situated ; further below is Tod and Mc- Gregor's. The banks of the river are dotted with fine mansions and pleasant villas. Half-way between Glasgow and Greenock is Bowling, where the Grand Junction Canal enters the Clyde. Henry Bell, who was the first to introduce steamvessels on the Clyde, is honoured by an obelisk to his memory here. After passing Bowling the large rock of Dumbarton, 560 feet high, is seen rising from the water near the junction of the Leven and the Clyde. The castle is exceed- ingly picturesque. "Wallace was imprisoned here : the custodian will show his two-handed sword. Two miles below is the old Castle of Newark. Port Glasgow, the former port of Glasgow, is next reached. Three miles f m-ther on is Greenock. This is a seaport, celebrated for its dock, 22 £ miles "W.N.W. of Glasgow, from whence it may be reached by boat in less than two hours. A con- siderable business is done here in iron shipbuilding and sugar re- fining. There are also iron foun- dries, machine works, roperies and sail-cloth factories, breweries, &c. Great facilities are afforded for giving motion to machinery by two lines of fall, each 512 feet, from extensive waterworks con- structed among the hills over- hanging the town. The water descending the falls amounts to 1 ,200 cubic feet per minute, and is equal to 1,843 horse power. The hills are 800 feet high. The aqueduct has a length of 6| miles from reservoirs, occupying 324 acres, at a height of 630 feet. It has a telegraph station. The range of hills beyond Greenock afford some very charming views ; and in the burying ground of the old church is the grave of Mary Campbell, Bums' s " Highland Mary." The Custom House is a splendid Grecian edifice, the front of which is 120 feet in length, and the depth more than 50. It includes offices for the Excise. The herring fishery is one of the oldest branches of its indus- tries. Its population is 42,000, and the principal hotels are the Royal Tontine -zxAihs WhiteHart. Along the river side there is a very handsome esplanade more than a mile long. Here was born the great im- prover of the steam engine, James Watt, and a statue, by Chantry, has been erected by the inhabi- tants to his memory. Crossing the Firth of Clyde, by steam, we reach Hunter's Quay, a modern place, somewhat resembling Sta- ten Island, which is connected, by a succession of small neat villas, with the very beautiful watering- place of Dunoon. The chief hotel here is Argyle. It is really a charming village of 5,000 in- habitants, with pleasant little slate-roofed white villas embo- somed in trees. Here Queen Mary resided in 1563. Near the pier is a ruined castle, of which the family of Argyll are here- ditary constables. Here they lived at one period. The bishops of Argyll afterwards also lived here. Route 2.— GLASGOW TO ATE. Route 2. GLASGOW AND LANARK TO AYR. ^ROM Glasgow, by train (the station is in Bucha- nan Street), Ave may have a very agreeable excursion to the supposed Oolonia of Ptolemy, the royal burgh and county town of Lanark, near the valley of the Clyde, which has been called the orchard of Scotland. Here we are in the midst of scenery famous in the annals of Border minstrelsy, and may visit the cele- brated falls of the Clyde and the Tinto Hills, a range the highest of which is 2,400 feet above the sea. We are here in the neigh- bourhood of Douglas Dale, the ancient patrimony of the once powerful house of Douglas, and the scene of some terrible and romantic adventures, which Sir Walter Scott has embodied in his story of " Castle Dangerous." The grandest of the Clyde Falls is the Corra Linn, which has a descent of 84 feet; but the largest is Stone-byres. On the top of the cliffs is a little mir- rored pavilion ; and an old castle, said to have been the stronghold of Wallace, overlooks the falls. The distance from Lanark to New Lanark is a mile. To Corra Linn 1| miles ; to Bownton Linn, 2 miles ; to the Fall of Stonebyres, 2 miles ; to Cartland Crags, a mile. Hamilton is a town 10 miles from Glasgow, which stands on rising ground, commanding fine views over a rich and highly pic- turesque country; and though the streets are somewhat irregu- lar, the town is very well built, neat, and clean. The manufac- tures comprise lace, imitation cambric, black silk veils, check shirting, and hempen fabrics. Immediately adjoining, on the east, is Hamilton Park, contain- ing the magnificent palace of the dukes of Hamilton, which is reckoned one of the finest struc- tures in Britain. Population of parliamentary borough, , 10,688. It is a telegraph station. Both well Castle. — This is a picturesque ruin of Norman archi- tecture, which consists of two enormous towers flanking a large quadrangle. Portions of the wall are 60 feet high, and 14 ft. in thickness. It was the residence of Edward III. when invading Scot- land. William Wallace lived here during his governorship. Visitors are admitted at the principal gate- way, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. every Tuesday and Friday. An old well in one of the towers, sunk deep into the rock, was discovered some years ago. The entry is upon the north side. This castle, the origin of which is uncertain, is known to have changed owners frequently. Edward I. of Enp- lane!, made it a grant to Amyer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, his governor of Scotland. Robert Bruce granted Bothwell Castle to Andrew Murray, Lord Bothwell, who had married Christiana, the sister of that monarch; next it devolved to Archibald, Earl of Douglas, upon his espousing the heiress of that marriage. After the forfeiture of the Douglasses it was successively acquired and forfeited by the Crichtons and by John Ramsey, a favourite of James III. It was conferred by Japtes IV. upon Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hailes, whom he created Eai 1 of Bothwell, and who was after- 70 Route 2.— GLASGOW TO AYR. SCOTLAND. wards mortally wounded at the battle of Flodden. It again returned to the Crown, upon forfeiture upon the flagitious James, Earl of Bothwell, for the murder of Darnley. James VI. granted it to Francis Stewart, son of John, Abbot of Kelso, the natural son of James V., who having also incurred forfeiture, his estates were granted to the lairds of Buccleuch and Rox- burgh, from whom the Marquess of Hamilton acquired the su- periority of this estate. But this castle had been previously con- veyed to the Earl of Angus, and thus it reverted to the noble family of Douglas. Amongst other excursions from Glasgow there is one which most lovers of Burns will be glad to enjoy, namely, a visit to Ayr and the places in its neighbour- hood, to which this poet's works have given a world-wide popu- larity. The trip may be made in a single day by rail. Proceeding west from Glasgow at a distance of about 7 miles we reach — Paisley, a parliamentary borough, market, and post town, famous for its ancient abbey church, which contains the tombs of many great historical and royal personages ; amongst others, Mar- jory Bruce, the daughter of Robert I., and mother of Robert II. Pais- ley has a population of about 50,000 ; it was founded in 1160. It has some pleasant gardens (the Fountain) , which were opened in 1868, and has long been celebrated as the great manufacturing centre for all kinds of fancy goods in silk and cotton, although it has large iron and brass foundries, soap works, distilleries, and other factories; its navigable rivers, the Clyde and Cart, affording con- siderable facilities for both im- p orting and exp orting . In Paisley, Wilson the ornithologist, the poets Tannahill and Mother- well, and Professor Wilson were born. The chief hotels here are George and The Saracen's Head. Shortly before reaching Paisley we note on an eminence above the Cart the ruins of a castle called Cruikstone. Here Darnley and Mary Stuart passed their honey- moon. Ayr, which is 40 miles from Glasgow, is a clean, healthy, an- cient little seaport town. An in- teresting object is to be found in the " Twa Brigs," immortalized by Burns. The Wallace Tower is in the High-street, on the site of the dungeon where he was con- fined ; with a statue of the hero in front, executed by Thorn, and the clock and bells of the old dungeon at the top. Statues to the late Earl of Eglinton and General Neil are here erected. The Burns Cottage, a very hum- ble house, is about 2 miles from Ayr, with two rooms in bad re- pair. Here the poet was born in 1759. The cottage stands on the right hand side of the road, a quarter of a mile before reaching Alio way Kirk and the Brig o' Doon. It contains only two rooms, and is thatched and whitewashed like a cabin of the humblest order. Over the door is a portrait of Burns, beneath which is the following inscription: "Robert Burns, the Ayrshire Poet, was born under this roof the 25th January, 1759. Died a.d. 1796, aged 37| years." The poet was born in what is now the kitchen, in a recess, which is still shown to tourists. A quarter of a mile beyond is Kirk AUoway, the haunted church in " Tarn o' Scotland. Route 3.— GLASGOW TO CARLISLE. 71 Shanter;" and close by are the " Banks and braes o' Bonny Doon," crossed by the single- arched stone bridge where " Cuttie Sarb" pulled off the tail of Tani o' Shanter' s mare. The Burns Monument, near the banks of the Doon, close to the haunted Kirk, and within sight of the sea, is a handsome Corinthian- columned structure 60 feet high, designed after the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. It was erected in 1820 at a cost of 17,000 given by Burns to Highland Mary, a snuff-box from the wood of Alloway Kirk, and other relics. Route 3. GLASGOW TO CARLISLE. g^Jg' T ARTING from the rail- *a^3^c?t way station inBuchanan- fe^^v' street for Carlisle, about f|£^S$ 6 miles on our way Ave note Gae.nk.irk, a place celebrated for its potteries. At Gartsherrie Junction, 2 miles BCBNS BIRTHPLACE, KLLISLA.ND dols., and is surrounded with a neatly kept garden. In a lower room on the ground floor of the monument are shown, among other things, a portrait, the Bible onward, a line branches off to Edinburgh, Perth, Inverness, and Aberdeen. Fifteen miles be- yond that we reach Mother- well, where the Clydesdale 72 Route 3.- GLASGOW TO CARLISLE. branch from Glasgow by Cam- buslang joins the main line ; and a little beyond there stands Wishaw Castle, the grounds of which are very picturesque. Pro- ceeding through a remarkably rich and lovely expanse of country, we see at a distance, Maudslie Castle and the Chapel of St. Oswald, an ancient hermitage, on a peninsula nearly surrounded by the river Clyde,— Milton, a Tudor building of great beauty is passed, and then we reach the episcopal city of — Carlisle, the border town of Cumberland, 32 miles from Glas- gow, on the bank of the river Eden, which runs into the Caldew, near Solway Frith. Interesting from its associations with border warfare, and for the remains of the old Castle, said to have been built as a defence against the Scots, by William Riiius. For- merly this was a place of great military importance . Here in 1 5 6 8 Mary Queen of Scots was im- prisoned, and the remembrance of her favourite promenade is still preserved in what is known as the Lady's Walk. The cathedral oc- cupies the highest ground, and is partly Gothic and partly Saxon. It has recently been repaired and restored. The town has a handsome bridge over the Eden, which is in length nearly a quar- ter of a mile. The trade of Car- lisle consists of cotton, woollens, linen, leather, hardware, hats, &c, and it has some large breweries and foundries. Leaving Carlisle and continu- ing our journey, we reach Clek- horn, notable for its neighbour- hood to an ancient chapel and a Roman encampment. A line branches off here to Lanark, which is 4 miles distant, Car- staibs Junction (30£ miles), is where the Edinburgh branch of the Caledonian Railway joins that from Glasgow. We next cross the Clyde and reach Thanker- ton, near the ruins of Coving- ton Castle, a village to which the persecuted Covenanters often re- treated for shelter. Near Sym- ington (37? miles) we see the ruins of Fatlips Castle, and the highest of the Tinto Hills, to which we have already referred, anciently known as the " Hill of Fire," probably from its having been the hill on which the an- cient Celtic priests ignited their huge bonfires. Before reaching Lamington we observe some Druidical remains, some signs of a Eoman encampment, and, far- ther on, the old tower of Laming- ton. Beyond Elvanfoot, the Lowther Hills rise upwards to a height on the right of 3000 feet. On the left are the sources of the Tweed, the Annan, and the Clyde. We now pass successively Beattock, Nethercleugh, and Lockerbie, near which is a house called Brick Hall, celebrated in local annals as the place where the original of Sir Walter Scott's Old Mortality died at a greatly advanced age in 1801. In due time we leave Lockerbie, cross the Water of Milk, the scenery of which possesses charming fea- tures ; Skiddaw, one of the prin- cipal mountains in the lake dis- trict of England, here becomes visible. At Ecclepechan we see a large tower or keep, called Hod- dam House, a place which in olden times was an important strong- hold, opposite which, on a small hillock, stands the " Tower of Re- pentance," built by one of the ancestors of Lord Hemes, as a mark of penitence for some for- gotten crime. Route 4.— GLASGOW TO ANNAN. 73 Proceeding*, we pass the River Kirtle, over a viaduct of nine arches, near which, on the north side, we notice the Tower of Robert Gill, a noted marauder, who, with a daring hand of fol- lowers, used to lay waste the country round ahout, and drive off cattle and sheep from the farm-steads. Leaving on the right the hranch line to Glasgow by Dumfries and Kilmarnock, Ave proceed on our way, with the Sol- way Frith and the mountains of Westmoreland in the far distance, and soon reach Giietna Junc- tion, near Gretna Green, a vil- lage which has attained celebrity as the place where clandestine marriages were entered into be- tween runaway couples from be- yond the border. The officiating minister, as every one knows, was the village blacksmith, and the ceremony consisted merely in in- scribing the names in a register. Such marriages were declared il- legal by Act of Parliamentin 1856. The tourist, passing Floris- ton, proceeds along an embank- ment called Guard's, crosses the Solway Moss (on which six mil- lion tons of earth had to be banked up before a sufficiently solid and safe foundation could be secured for the railway), and crosses the river Esk over a via- duct of seven arches, leaving Rockcliffe behind, and so arrives at Carlisle. Route 4. GLASGOW TO CARLISLE & ANNAN BY DUMFRIES. REAVING Glasgow, at a distance of 7 miles we once more pass the thriving town of Pais- ley and reach John- stone, a manufacturing town of about 6000 inhabitants. Near Beith we see the remains of Giffen Castle, once the pro- perty of the Earls of Eglinton. Kilburnie is the next station, near which is a loch, 2 miles long, of the same name. At Dalry Junction there is a branch line to Ayr. At Dairy originated the agitation against episcopal govern- ment in Scotland, which led to great persecutions, and finally re- sulted in the establishment of Presbyterianism. Leaving Ste- warton we reach Kilmarnock. This town has a population of about 22,000, and does a considerable trade in wool- len and cotton stuffs, carpets, &c. It communicates by rail with Troon and Ayr, and is a telegraph station. Pursuing our route we pass Hurlford and Mauchline, the scene of several of Burns' poems. Jean Armour was the daughter of a stonemason at Mauchline, with whom Burns fell in love, and who, after many troubles and much opposition on the part of his family, became his wife. Here the great plough- man poet wrote many of his finest poems, which were first published at Kilmarnock. The scene of his " Holy Fair" is laid in the cemetery of Mauch- line, just opposite the gate of which is the cottage where the "Jolly Beggars" assembled; and in a cottage near is shown the room in which the poet's mar- riage was celebrated, and in which he is said to have composed the satire entitled " The Calf." On a pane of glass in the window of the Whitef ord Arms Inn he in- scribed the humourous "Epitaph on John Dow," the landlord. Auchinleck. (12 miles east from Ayr, and 47 £ miles from 74 Route 4.— GLASGOW TO ANNAN. Scotland- Glasgow) we may note in passing, as the ancient seat of the family to which belonged Dr. Johnson's famous biographer, Boswell. C akron Bridge was the birth- place of " the Admirable Crich- ton." Thornhill is a remarkable clean village, with a population of 1,450 ; near here is Closeburn, and next, on the left, is "Wallace Hall Academy, one of the largest in Scotland. Haly- wood flits by, and we reach Dalswinton, where is a small lake on which "Watt made his first practical experiment in steam navigation. In the immediate neighbourhood is a farm which was occupied by Burns when he wrote "T am O'Shanter." Wenext come to the royal and parliamen- tary borough of Dumfries, which is 28 miles north-west from Car- lisle, and nearly 1 00 f rom Glasgow. Itis the principal town in the south of Scotland. This town, in ad- dition to the monument erected over the grave of Burns in St. Michael's church (the Westmin- ster Abbey of Scotland), which was built in the 13th century contains the house in which the ploughman-poet died, and where the widow resided over thirty years. It will be found in Burns Street. The allegoi ical sculpture on the tomb, representing the genius of Scotland placing the mantle of poesy on the shoulder of Bums,was executed by Turnerelli. You can visit from here Caerlave- roch Castle, Drumianrig Castle — the residence of the Duke of Buc- cleugh, — Lincluden House, and New Abbey. The ruins of Lin- cluden Abbey and Lincluden College are seen from the rail- way j ust before you arrive at Dum- fries, on a gentle eminence near the confluence of the rivers Nith and Cluden. The manufactures of Dumfries are leather, shoes, baskets, hats, woollen fabrics, hosiery, &c. Amongst the public buildings in Dumfries, tourists who are con- stant playgoers will be sure to visit the theatre in which the great English actor Edmund Kean made his first appearance. In the church is the shrine of Margaret, daugh- ter of Bobert III., and wife of Earl Douglas. Again resuming our onward journey by raiL we soon pass Ruthwell, and on the right we note Comlangan Cas- tle, surrounded by a well- wooded park ; crossing Lochar Moss we see the Lochar flowing along its winding course, and near Cum- mertrees view Hoddama Castle, built by Lord Herries. Soon after we arrive at — Annan, 15 miles from Dum- fries, and from Glasgow 1064 miles ; the chief hotel here is the Queensberry Arms. The town has a population about 4,600, and it is one of the most ancient in Scot- land. The river from which it takes its name, and which falls into the Solway Frith is spanned by a handsome bridge of three arches. At the mouth of this river a salmon fishery exists. An- nan is a seaport town, has a goou harbour, and carries on a consider- able coasting trade. Foreign timber imports are largely landed here. It contains three schools and two churches, the most ancient of which has a fine belfry. Here are also shipbuilding yards, and a good trade is carried on in the manufacture of gingham, cotton goods and cordage, &c. It is a telegraph station. About 10 miles farther is Gretna Green Junction to Carlisle {see page 73). Route b.— GLASGOW TO OBAN. Route 5. GLASGOW TO INVERARY AND OBAN. >BAN is a pleasant and popular health resort in the Highlands, which during the summer months is filled with , Inverness, and other who make this the starting-point for Staffa, Iona, and other local lions. There are several routes to reach Ohan. The usual one is via In- verary by steamer from Glasgow up Loch Long to Arroquhar (four hoiks' sail) , thence by coach round the head of Loch Long via Glen- coe, round the head of Loch Fine, and down to Inverary, a distance of 20 miles, and a most lovely road. Or the traveller may take the cars from Glasgow to Bal- loch, at the foot of Loch Lomond, and steamer to Tarbet. [Oban may also be reached when returning from Inver- ness on your way to Glasgow (supposing you to have come to Oban by the Crinan Canal route) .] There is yet another route via Loch Long to Loch Goil, at the head of which a coach starts for St. Catharine's Pier, a ride of 8 miles. A steamer which waits for the coach starts on its arrival for— Inverary, a pleasantly located town, with about twelve hun- dred inhabitants ; famous for its herring fishery and its castle. The grounds of the castle are open to the public. The fol- lowing satirical and bitter lines were written by Burns on the window of the hotel here : - " Who'er he be that sojourns here, I pity much his case, Unless he come to wait upon The lord, their god, his Grace. There's naething here but Highland pride, And Highland cauld and hunger ; 1 f Providence has sent me here, "JTwas surely in His anger." During the tourist season a coach leaves Inverary every morning for Oban. The ride occupies about eight hours. Kilchtjrn Castle, beautifully situated at the head of Loch Awe, will be sure to attract attention. This castle, founded by the wife of Sir Colin Campbell about the middle of the fifteenth century, was brought as her dower to Sir Colin,the Black Knight of Rhodes, and founder of the Argyle family . The territory round the head of Loch Awe was formerly in possession of the clan Gregor, but now possessed by the Campbells. The salmon of the river Awe are the most delicious in the world. The " Bridge of Awe" is the scene of Scott's " High- land "Widow." Descending to l.och Etive, we pass the ruins of Dunstaffnage Castle. Steamers ran to Staffa and Iona on every day except Sunday. The ruins of Dunolly Castle are situated about a mile off, upon a precipitous rock overhanging Loch Etive. The view from their summit is a most glorious one. Dunolly Castle was the strong- hold of the lords of Lorn, and is now in possession of Admiral M'Dougal, a lineal descendant of the McDougals, descended from the mighty Somerled who was Lord of the Isles in the twelfth century. Route 6.— OBAN TO STAFFA AND 10NA. Scotland. Route 6. OBAX TO STAFFA AXD IOXA. ^|fp§j$2:16 journey must be ^q/aBI^ taken only in fine SVfc|) weather, as it is impos- '\§j$£g sible to land at Staffa if the sea is very rough. It is generally reached from Oban across the niouth of Loch Linnhe, passing the island of Lismore on the left. The steamer leaves Oban har- bour about seven in the morning. The ruins of Ardtornish Castle, on a chain of rocks overlooking the sea, are seen at the mouth of Loch Aline, once a stronghold for the " lords of the isle?' "We then pass Salen, near which is Aros Castle, and on the right Killlindine Castle, and arrive at the harboxu- of Tobermory, the chief village of "Dark Mull,'* the hotel is Mull. Leaving here we pass the mouth of Loch Stuart, and on the right we see Mingary Castle, a ruin nearly surrounded by water. "We may here remark that the coasts of M ull abound in caves, with some of which are connected many stirring tales illustrative of the ancient customs and super- stitions of the inhabitants. After leaving Tobermory we get free from the Sound of Mull ; but the long headland of Ard- namurchan, extending far to the westward, hems in our course on that side. Rounding the point of Cullich, the last promontory of Mull, we find ourselves moving freely on the heaving bosom of the Atlantic ; and at the same moment, if the weather is fine, the Dutchman's Cap and Tresh- nish Isles, the former limits of the Sudereys,or ancient dominion of the Kings of Man, prey, CoU, Muck, Eigg, with its wild and lofty Scuir, and the high serrated chain of mountains in the Island of Rum, like those of Cuchullin and of Arran,burstupon our view, and assiu-eus of our near approach to the sounding caves of Staffa, and the last resting-places of Iona. In front, the great ocean is ex- tended before us to the horizon ; and if the day be unusually serene, we may descry, far to the north- west, the faint outlines of South TJist and Barra. Staffa and Iona have nothing imposing about them when seen from a distance. The former ap- pears as a round, lumpish rock, and the latter is so low that at first it seems but a dark speck of cloud resting on the sruface of the ocean. It is only when we approach within less than a quarter of a mile of the rocks, that the beauties of Staffa begin to unfold themselves. If the visitor is in a sailing boat let him not be in haste to reach the landing-place, but let him rather first sail along the whole eastern side of the island. He will thus pass the entrances of all the most celebrated caves, will become familiar with the general charac- ters of the colonnades, and at the south- western extremity will have a most imposing view of the main entablature of the island, support- ed by the continuous cliff's of basaltic pillars. Staffa is of an irregular oval shape, about a mile and a half in circumference, presenting an un- even table-land, resting on cliffs of varying height. The greatest elevation lies towards the south- west, and appears to be about Route 1.—0BAX TO GLENCOE. 77 144 feet. The island is com- posed of a fundamental ledge of rocks of conglomerated trap or tufa, to which succeeds a greyish black, hard, and compact columnar basalt, which is covered by a mass of shapeless basalt of the same description, with small col- umns interspersed through it. The whole facade of the island, the arches and floorings of the caves, strongly resemble architec- t ural designs, and have been de- scribed by terms taken from works of art ; and even the surface of the summit of the island, pre- senting in several places the Herdsman cave and Fingal's cave, of which our illustration conveys but an imperfect idea, for this cavern is, for curiously pictur- esque effects, fairy-like character and grandeur of proportions, one of the most wonderful in the world. Returning to the steamer we proceed some distance south- ward of Staft'a, Iona, or Icolmkill, "the island of Columba's cell," which has been known as the " Island of Waves." The cathe- dral spire is the first conspicuous object visible on approaching this island, and in the abbey are the reputed tombs of forty-eight Irish FIjN t &AL s cave, staffa. ends of small columns jutting up from the amorphous basalt, has much the appearance of a tessel- lated pavement. So numerous are the caves, that the rock may almost be described as perforated with them all round, but the wonders of the spot are concen trated on the eastern side, and the surge which constantly beats on the other parts of the island ren- ders the examination of them very difficult and dangerous . On land- ing from the steamer on the eastern side, the tourists usually visit the Scallop-shell cave, the kings, together with many stone crosses and other interesting re- lics. Return is made to Oban early in the evening. Route 7. OBAN TO GLENCOE. JHE distance is 26 miles, and in summer boats leave Oban every week for Ballachulish, where vehicles take up pas- sengers to Glencoe, and return in time for every boat to Oban. The excursion occupies about 78 Route 8.—0EAN TO INVERNESS. Scotland. twelve hours. On returning, the steamer passes Dunolly Castle, the island of Kerrara, the island of Lismore, and through part of Loch Linnhe, north of Lismore, thence into Loch Leven back toBallachu- lish ; the hotel here is BaUachu- lish. After a short drive we reach Glencoe, famous as the birth- place of Ossian, and noted for the massacre of its hospitable and unsuspecting inhabitants, com- mitted by the government troops in 1691. The particulars of that transaction are familiar to every one ; it fixed an everlasting stigma upon the reign of William and Mar}-, and combined cruelty and treachery in a higher degree than any other public act to be met with in the annals of the country. The scenery of Glencoe is the most awfully wild and romantic of any in the Highlands, or per- haps in the British islands. The valley is remarkably narrow, and on every side black rocks, almost perpendicular, rise to a height of 3,000 feet. On one side their summits are jagged and broken for many miles, in some places shooting into lofty spires ; and at many parts two opposite ranges approach so near together, that they seem to hang over each other, as if to shut out the glen from the light of day. Among the hills on the south side is Malmor,andthe celebrated Dun Fion, the hill of Fingalis conspicuous among those upon the north. In the middle of the valley is a small lake, and from it issues the stream of Cona frequently alluded to in the poems of Ossian. " If he overcomes I will rush in my strength like the roaring stream of Cona * * * ' Why bends the bard of Cona' said Fingal, over his secret stream ? ' " Route 8. OBAN TO INVERNESS. fEAVING Oban, Dun- olly, and Dunstaffnage Castles, with Duart Castle on the coast of Mull, we observe the hills of Appin on one side, and Moiven on the other. On the west of Lismore are the ruins of Auch- indown Palace, used by the early Bishops of Argyll. On the north- ern extremity of this island is Loch Creran, with Airds to the north. Passing Slaker Castle and the island of Shuna, we note at the outlet of Loch Leven Ard- gour, to the westward of which are the mountains of Glencoe. In fine weather Ben Nevis is visible from this point. Our route now takes us from Connel ferry up Lochiel, to the west of which we see Fort William, originally con- structed by General Monk, and rebuilt in the reign of William III. The fort contains a bomb- proof magazine, and will accom- modate a hundred men. The hotel at Fort William is the Caledonian. If the visitor intends to ascend Ben Nevis, it is at Fort William that he will land. Ben Nevis. — This gigantic mountain is no less than 4,380 feet in height ; and a great part, of it is composed of the most beautiful porphyry or red granite. The ascent is by a ridge of the mountain towards the west, a short way up the river Nevis. The hill of Glenurs limits the aspect until a height of 1,500 feet is gained, when the pastoral beauties of the glen open to the view. Ascending higher, the prospect enlarges to the south- Route S.—OBAN TO IXVERXESS. 79 west ; the Strait of Corran, the isles of Shuna and Lismore,Mull, Seil, and Kerrera ; and beyond these the lofty Paps of Jura ap- pear within sight. To the north- west, the isles of Rum, Canna, and Skye, are distinctly seen ; and westward, the mountainous territory of Lochiel. At the al- titude of 1,800 feet, vegetation ceases, and the tourist walks over naked rocks or gravelly beds, called scarnachs, from which gush abundant springs of excel- lent water. Having gained the summit, when approaching the north-east side of the mountain, which is flat, he finds himself on the brink of a tremendous pre- cipice, in which snow lies through- out the whole year. The height of this rock is supposed to be equal to a third of that of the mountain. Here the tourist sees across the whole island, from the German ocean to the Atlantic. Eastward he beholds the chain of lakes which occupy the bottom of the great glen, and to the south-east, Loch Laggan and Loch Rannoch. All around are lofty mountains, over the summits of which he casts his eye with conscious pride from the great- est point of elevation in the British dominions . Among these he will discover Ben Cruachan, at the head of Loch Awe in Argyllshire ; Schihallien, Ben More, and Ben Lawers in Perth- shire ; Bhillan in Glencoe, Ben More in Mull, Ben Wyvis and other hills in Ross-shire ; each of them surrounded by an assem- blage of other mountains. At the distance of 90 miles Colonsay seems to rise from the sea like a shade of mist over the opening of the Sound of Mull. The ver- dant Lismore and Shuna, though distant 30 miles, appear as if im- mediately under the mountain. The whole extent of view is 170 miles from the horizon of the sea at the Moray Firth on the north- east, to the island of Colonsay on the south-west. The vistas form- ed by the opening of the moun- tains appearing to rise like ram- parts from the valleys, are very grand ; the eye travels along the course of noble rivers, and marks the relative bearings of different lakes and islands. Besides all this, conceive the ocean, with its numerous firths and bays ap- pearing in repose, the serenity of the sky, the absence of all sound but that of the rushing wind, and a faint idea may be formed of the glories of this scene. It is proper here to men- tion that an excursion to the summit of Ben Nevis and re- turning will consume at least seven hours, allowing time for making observations. The ruined Castle of Lnver- lochy is one mile beyond Fort William, near the river Lochy. It was here Montrose, 1645, de- feated the covenanters under the Duke of Argyll. The hotel is the Lochiel Arms The Caledo- nian Canal was completed 1822 ; it is 60 miles in length, and its average depth is 15 faet ; it con- nects the North Sea with the At- lantic, and was first carried out by Telford the celebrated engi- neer, who was succeeded by Mr. Walker. The canal was opened in April, 1847. In this neigh- bourhood was fought, in 1428, the great battle between Donald Balloch, brother to the Lord of the Isles, and the Earls of Mar and Caithness, in command of the king's troops, which were totally defeated. Houte 9.— LOCH E1L TO LOCH LOCHY. Scotland. Route 9. LOCH EIL TO LOCH LOCHY- SvS %g AVING traversed the 8 wtf^Aw m ^ es between Loch Eil f ) ($} it anc * ^ ocn Lochy, we ]^/!^ ascend the three lochs of Corpach, the eight others called Neptune's Stair- case, leaving on the right the village of Corpach, and on the left the Church of Kil- mallie, near which there is an obelisk in memory of Colonel John Cameron, the inscription on which was written hy Sir Walter Scott. Three miles far- ther we come to Ton Castle, and on the left the lands of East and "West Moy. At the point where the waters of Loch Arkaig enter Loch Lochy the width is about a mile and a half. The length of Loch Lochy is 10 miles. As we advance we note Auchna- carry, the seat of the chief of Clan Lochiel. Beyond this, some 2 miles or less, is Loch Oich and the little village of Laggan. Loch Oich contains some little wooded islands ; its breadth at the widest part is nearly the sixth of a mile; at the narrowest it is about a quarter of a mile. The Garry enters it near the mouth, where stand the ruins of Ia- A-ergarry Castle, underneath the Craig - na - Philrick (Haven's Rock), which was burnt by the Duke of Cumberland in 1745. De- scending for about two miles, by seven lochs, in about an hour and a half we reach Loch Ness, at the western point of which stands Fort Augustus, built in 1715. Loch Ness is very deep, and tradition states that in the most severe winters its watcis have never been known to freeze. The banks are very picturesque, and its length is nearly 24 miles, while its breadth across varies from a mile and a quarter to about half a mile. Foyers Pier, where the steamer., waits to enable tourists to visit the fa- mous falls, is about nine miles on. The hotel bears the name of the place ; about a quarter of a mile's walk introduces us to the scene so beautifully described by Burns in a poem which he wrote on the spot, the famous cataract called the Second or Lower Fall, which is one of about 55 feet. The higher fall has a descent of little more than half that distance. The opposite banks are connected by an archway, from beneath which the falls can be most advantageously inspected. Resuming our journey, we pass Inverfarigaig, beneath the " Black Rock," crowned by Fort Duniardd. This rock has some- what the shape of a lion, by which it is recognised. Another two miles journey brings us to the last of the Scottish castles taken by Edward I.-^that of Urquhart, behind which is the glen of that name. The hotel here is called JJrumnadrochef. Traversing eight and a half miles from Drumnadrochet, we enter a strait and reach Loch Doch- eour. Passing through this small lake, the canal runs parallel with the river Ness, which waters the fertile valley of its name. We leave behind, on the right, lirst, Ness Castle, and secondly, Ness Side, with, farther on, the Craig Phadrick beyond which stretches Loch Beauly. Gliding on between the heights of Torvain and Tomnahurich, we slop one mile from Inverness, Scotland. Route Id.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. 81 in the Mrra-rowN Lochs (6| miles from Loch Ness), and there find conveyances stationed to take our tourists on to the town of Inverness. The three hotels here are the Railway, the Caledonian, and the Union. Eoutb 10. GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. £F from Glasgow, the an- iiLTib cient metropolis of West- CN*rsis em Scotland, we now * seek the fine old Scottish capital itself — in ahout two hours it can be reached. We shall find it one of the most beau- tiful cities in Europe. Soon after starting we enter a tunnel, leading to Cowlais, w T hich is in length eleven hundred yards. Flitting past Bishop Briggs, Croy, and Castlecary, we soon arrive at Falkirk, a well-known market and post town, which contains a popxuation of 9,900. It is near the great canal between the rivers Forth and Clyde. The inhabit- ants are principally occupied in the iron and coal trades. The three greatest fairs in Scotland for cattle, horses, and sheep, are held here in August, September, and October. The Pretender defeated General Hawley here in 1745. On the hill behind the town Edward I. and Wallace fought the famous battle of Falkirk in 1298, when the latter was defeated. » " Wallace's stone " marks the post which that chief 'sforces occupied. Here also, in 1746, the Royal army was defeated by the Stuart army. Some of the largest corn works in the world are to be seen about two miles to the north- west of Falkirk. We next near a place venerable for its antiqui- ties, and hallowed by their mourn- ful memories, viz., — Linlithgow, the Lindum of Ptolemy. It is 17 miles (N.W.) from Edinburgh. Its trades are chiefly confined to the leather, glue and cotton trades, and it numbers a population of 4,000. Its noble Gothic chm'ch, originally built by David I., who made it one of his principal burghs, was rebuilt in 1412. Close by it is the roofless ruin of a palace built by James IV., a large quadrangular build- ing with four towers, from which there is a magnificent view. It w r as here that Hamilton shot the Regent Murray, and it contains the room in which Queen Mary, on the 18th of December, 1542, was bom. In 1746 the Royal army set fire to it. It is still grand in its desolation, and yet reminds one of the words of Mary of Lorraine, James Y.'s queen, who used to say that in all his realms the King of France could show no palace equal to this. Three and a half miles from here stands Niddry Castle, the place in which Mary Queen of Scots remained after her escape from Lochleven Castle ; and now we reach — Edinburgh. — It is situated on two ridges of hills on the south bank of the Firth of Forth, and contains 200,000 inhabitants. The principal hotel, and one of the most popular in Scotland, is the Royal, in Princes Street, opposite the Walter Scott monu- ment, a beautifully located build- ing, of which Donald Macgregor is proprietor. Prior to the year 1753 Edin- burgh was a city of very circum- scribed extent, occupying only the central ridge of the three upon which it is now situated, Route 10.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. and, for centuries before, its site was the same. The improve- ments projected about that time for extending the city, and open- ing communications to the grounds on the north and south, have been carried on by the suc- cessive magistracies "with a spirit proportioned to the wants re- quired by a change of manners and an influx of wealth ; and consequently it has been extended to far more than thrice its former eastward towards Holyrood Palace, on which ridge or its slopes is built the " old town " of Edinbiirgh. The second, commencing to the south-west of the castle, is of smaller elevation, and runs in the south-east line to the foot of Salisbury Crags; while to the north again is the third ridge, upon which nearly all the new town is built ; this runs nearly due east and west, terminating at the Calton Hill, LOCH LBVB>' CASTLE. size, while the taste with which the additional streets have been laid out, the numerous improve- ments effected, and the architec- tural skill displayed in the public buildings, have contributed to render it one of the handsomest and most picturesque cities in Europe. The first and highest hill on which the city is built, crowned by the castle, gradually decline and slopes gradually on the north side towards the Firth of Forth. The old parts of the town — called the old tovrn — are those known as the High Street and the Lawnmarket, and the old city walls, used to enclose these parts only. The new town of Edinburgh — commonly called "the Modern Athens " — occupies rising ground to the north of a valley which Scotland. Route 10.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. 83 formerly was filled with water, and is now converted into beau- tiful gardens ; on the east it is crossed by the North Bridge, and on the centre by an embankment called the Earthen Mound. The castle stands on the summit of a tremendous precipice, cover- ing with its works an area of seven English acres. It is one of those fortresses which, by the Articles of Union between Eng- land and Scotland, must be kept fortified. Within its walls 2,000 men can be placed, and it has an armory which will hold 30,000 stands of arms. The crown jewels of Scotland (found in 1818) are kept here in a strongly-guarded old apartment, where they can be seen by visitors ; but for this purpose it will be necessary to procure an order at the Council Chamber, Eoyal Exchange, be- tween the hours of twelve and three. This castle is teeming with interesting associations. Here was born James I. of Eng- land and VI. of Scotland. Sir Walter Scott's description of its capture from the English by Kandolph, Earl of Moray, in 1313, is well worth re-reading while here. Sir William Kirk ably defended it for Mary Queen of Scots thirty-three days against the combined forces of England and Scotland. In one of its rooms is shown the window where James VI., when only eight days old, was let down in a basket to be conveyed to a place of greater safety. Here is the celebrated old gun, Mons Meg — a gigantic cannon, twenty inches in diameter at the bore, built of malleable iron staves, which was used at the siege of Norham Castle in 1514, and was formerly in the Tower of London, where it remained a century and a half until it was restored to this castle in 1829 by George IV. The public buildings of Edin- burgh are very stately in design, and the general effect of the city, owing to its diversity of outline, and to the lofty houses towering one above another, is imposing and highly picturesque. The principal street of Edin- burgh is Princes Street : where most of the hotels are located. In theEast Princes Street Gardens stands the elegant monument to Sir Walter Scott, designed by George M. Kemp, a self-taught artist. He was originally a work- ing mason, and died in 1844, before the structure was com- pleted. It is 200 feet high, and has an interior staircase ascending to the top of the gallery, where a delightful bird's-eye view of the city is obtainable. The statues in the niches illustrate passages taken from the principal works of the great Scottish poet and novelist. This monument cost £15,650. Admission to the galleries, from which a series of the finest views of the city can be obtained, is given on the payment of 2d. The Gardens in which it stands, called the East Princes Street Gardens, are elegantly laid out. Unrestricted access is afforded to the public, and there are no public gardens in the United Kingdom better preserved from injury- If pressed for time our traveller should "do" Edinburgh by cab —an open one if the weather is fine, and a close one in the op- posite event ; the driver here, as elsewhere in Europe (not always in America), being usually one of the most useful and civil of 84 Route 10.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. The Bridewell and Debtors' Prison, are very handsome emhattled buildings — too hand- some for their nse. It is worthy of particular note that on the spot where the prison now stands stood the old " Kirk of Field," in which Damley, Queen Mary's husband, was blown up and killed in 1567. Passing down the North House," as it is oftener < said to have been founded by David the First, the Crusader (who figures in Scott's " Talis- man"), about 1130 or 1140; and it has ever since held a prominent place in Scottish history, being generally the residence of the royal family while there was one to reign, and especially sacred to HOLYEOOD PALACE. Back of the Canongate, the visi- tor will be in a moment at the Palace op Holyrood, a quaint, handsome old French - looking chateau, with pointed pepper-box turrets, by far the most interest- ing building in Scotland. There is no charge for entrance on Satur- days ; on other days 6d. is the fee. This Palace (or " Holvrood the fortunes and misfortunes of Mary Stuart. The gateway of Holyrood still bears the arms of this unfortunate queen. Op- posite to it is a very handsome fountain, erected by the late Prince Consort (Prince Albert) ; and across the courtyard is an humble building said to have been Queen Mary's bath. There are Scotland. Route 10.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. 85 state apartments in the pal ace for the present Royal Family when visiting Holyrood. The rooms especially commanding the visi- tor's attention are, first the Picture Gallery, a very long,lo\v-ceilinged chamber, filled with dim disco- loured royal portraits of all ages. This gallery was once the great Hall of Holyrood, and the spot where Charles Edward Stuart the Pretender, when holding Edinburgh in 1745, held the " Hunters' Balls," one of which is made so notable in the pages of " Waverley." Among the por- traits best worth observing here, are perhaps those of Robert Bruce (1306) ; David the First (1124) ; James the Fourth (killed at Flodden Field 1513) ; James the Fifth (the " Fitz-James " of " The Lady of the Lake," and father of Queen Mary) ; Charles the First ; Duncan (murdered by Shakspeare's Macbeth) ; Macbeth himself; and Malcolm (Malcolm Canmore), who succeeded the kingly murderer. Lord Burnley's Rooms come next, with pic- tures and tapestry ; and then the Staircase is seen — that ominous melancholy narrow stair- case up which the assassins crept to murder David Rizzio. It is on the floor above that the two most interesting rooms in Holyrood are to be found. Of these one is Queen Mary's Audience-room, where that unfortunate queen gave her audiences and was lec- tured by John Knox. On a magnificent canopied bed, still standing here, with its rotten velvet and decaying grandeur, Charles the First slept w r hile at Holyrood ; here too slept his de- scendant the Pretender in 1745, and here too slumber settled upon the Duke of Cumberland after Culloden. The next room is still more interesting and mournful, for it is Queen Marys Sleeping Chamber ; a room with a panelled ceiling and tapestried walls, in which the bed still stands as the royal lady left it, its canopy and covering rotting to its end, while several other sad looking relics, her table, her workbox, nay, her very work, &c, render this room one of the most sadly attractive in existence. Close adjoining is the Supper room, where Rizzio was stabbed while clinging to the very skirts of the queen. Some rusty stains are here pointed out strangely mysterious and awe inspiring, being the ineffaceable blood-stains of which every schoolboy has read, marking the spot where Rizzio was dragged to die. Those who have "faith" enough may believe that this evidence of murder, which will not out, has lingered, spite of fading and scrubbing, for three hundred years. Adjoining Holyrood House are the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, of which the roofless walls remain, with very handsome Gothic gate- way and windows, old tombs in the pavement, and recollections of the altar where Queen Mary was married to Darnley. From Holyrood your course should be resumed up the " Queen's Drive" and around to Arthur's Seat,ths high hill over- looking Edinburgh, with a collar or ruff of rocks under the brow, called Salisbury Crags. Some fine views are caught in skirting the hill ; and one of the noblest in Europe is attained on leaving the carriage and climbing to the rocky top, whence Edinburgh, the Lo- thians, the distant Highlands, the Frith, &c, are all spread be- 86 Route Id.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. Scotland. fore the eye. Coming round the hill toward the town, excellent views are caught of Jeanie Deans' Cottage, the Wall of Dumbiedikes, and Mus- cat's Cairn (near Salisbury Jrags) , all immortalized in Scott's " Heart of Mid-Lothian." Many interesting objects pre- sent themselves in driving from the foot of Arthur's Seat, up the Canongate, the High Street, the Lawn market and Castle Hill, to the Castle : — the very tall old houses (some of them twelve stories! the narrow alleys, or " wynds ; " some of the churches, among others the Tron Church, in which may be seen the altar at which the real and actual Annie Laurie was married) ; Dr. Guthrie's St. Giles (with its splen- did spire) ,the Assembly Hall,&c); Sir Walter Scott's birthplace ; the House of John Knox, Nether- bow, open, for a fee of sixpence, to each visitor on Wednesdays and Saturdays ; Argyle's balcony; the Tolbooth (prison); the old Par- liament House ; and many other objects of interest. . And here, as you will have to pay your cabman, we may as well speak of the cab fares. For a distance not exceeding one mile and a half, the charge will be 1*. ; for every additional half- mile or part thereof, Qd. If yoxi engage your cab by time, the charge will be for the first half- hour 1*., and for each additional quarter of an hour, 6d. Two- horse carriages are usually charged at the rate of one-third more. The hirer pays tolls. On the Mound near Princes Street are the following places of interest : — The Museum of Na- tional Antiquities, open on Tues- day, Wednesday, and Saturday, 10 to 4 ; Saturday evening, 7 to 9, free ; on Thursdays and Fri- days, 10 to 4, admission 6d. ; closed on Mondays. The Mu- seum of Science and Art, Mon- day, Tuesday, and Thursday, 10 to 4, 6^. ; Wednesday, 10 to 4 ; Friday and Saturday, 10 to 4 and 6 to 9, free. Statue Gallery, Wednesday and Friday, 12 to 4, 6d. ; Saturday, 10 to 4, free. The National Gallery of Scotland, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday, 10 to 4, free; Saturday evening, 7 to 9, free ; Thursday and Friday, 10 to 4, 6d. ; from February 1 to Septem- ber 3, open 10 to 5. The Nelson Tower is to be seen, and the Na- tional Monument to those who fell on the Peninsula and at Waterloo, the Observatory, and the monuments to Dugald Stew- art and Playfair. The University and Museum are open daily free, except on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday, when the fee is 6d. The Monument of Dugald Stew- art is on the top of Calton Hill. The Burns Monument, which stands near the London Road, was erected in 1833, from a design by Mr. Thomas Hamil- ton ; it was raised by the sub- scriptions of Scotchmen sent from all parts of the world. Besides a large collection of MSS., letters, and poems, here are several commemorative paint- ings, and a marble bust of the poet by Brodie, Flaxman's model of the poet, the sword- cane which Burns carried as an exciseman, his snuff-box, &c. This Museum is open daily to the public at a nominal charge of Id. The Highland and Agricul- tural Society's Museum contains a series of animal paintings, geological specimens, models of Scotland. Route 10.— GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. 87 agricultural machines and imple- ments, and a fine national bota- nical gathering. No charge for admission. The old churchyard of Greyfriars contains much that is deeply interesting, including tombs of famous people, and the tombstone on which the Solemn League and Covenant was signed by the excited people in 1638. George Heriot's Hospital, founded by James VI., and made me- morable by Scott in his ■"Fortunes of Nigel"; Scott's old residence ; the Antiquarian Museum ; George's Square ; Bruntsfiehl Links (meadows) ; the Edinburgh Cemetery, and many other places in the city will all share the attentions of observing and admiring strangers. The General Post Office is at the fort. The butts of the Queen's body- guard are placed in The Mea- dows, and the Bore Stane on which James IV. fixed his stand- ard in 1513. In a work of this comprehen- sive nature, a minute description obtaining from Donald the Fifth, whom they had made prisoner, a cession of all the territory south of the Forth. After remaining in. their possession for the space of twenty years, it was, along with the ceded territory, restored to the- Scots upon their engaging to assist the Northumbrians against the Danes. In the tenth century this castle was the rendezvous of the Scottish army under Kenneth the Third, who defeated the Danes at the battle of Luncari y . About the middle of the twelfth century it became a royal residence, and long continued to be the favourite- abode of the Scottish monarchs. In 1174 Stirling Castle was one of the four fortresses delivered up to the English as a token of vassalage, these being the ransom paid for the liberation of William the Lion, when he had been made prisoner; it was restored along with the others by Bichard Cceur de Lion. In 1299, while in the hands of Edward L, it was sur- rendered to the Scots ; next year it was retaken by the English, after a most gallant defence by Sir William Oliphant, the governor. In 1303 the Scots, under the command of Sir John Soulis, again made themselves masters of it, when Oliphant resumed the command, and in the next year it sustained a second siege. It was battered most furiously by artillery, using stones of two hundred pounds weight as balls, which made vast breaches in the ramp nits ; but it was not until the garrison was reduced to a very few that the brave Oliphant submitted. In the reign of Edward II. it was be- sieged by Robert Bruce, and fell into his hands as one of the fruite Scotland. Route 13.— EDINBURGH TO STIRLING. 95 of the great battle celebrated in Bums' song of " Scots wba bae." It -was within tbis fortress tbat tbe youthful monarch James II. treacherously murdered William, Earl of Douglas, whom he had trepanned within the walls by safe-conduct. This nobleman had formed a rebellious association with others of the nobility, from which the king implored him to withdraw ; and upon his refusing, the incensed monarch stabbed him to the heart. The room where this bloody deed was perpetrated is still called Douglas's Room. In revenge, the friends of the mur- dered earl instantly burnt the town. This fortress is also re- markable for having been the birthplace of James IV. His son, James V., was crowned here ; and here also the unfortunate Mary underwent the same ceremony which was conducted with great pomp and solemnity, in presence of the three estates of Parliament. James VI. passed almost the whole of his minority here, under the tuition of the celebrated Buchanan. By some writers of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Stirling Castle has been called Snowdoun, derived, it has been supposed, from some romantic legend connecting Stirling with King Arthur. The stranger visit- ing Stirling Castle will be struck with delight and astonishment at the magnificent prospect it com- mands. Every traveller has spoken of the view from the castle in the language of enthusiasm ; and even foreigners have pro- nounced it to be the finest in the world. It is at once luxu- riant, wild, and magnificent. The Greyfriars Church was founded in 1144 by James IV. It is a building, in the pointed Gothic style, of a type peculiar to Scot- land, but of a somewhat French character. Exclusions may be made from here to the Field of Bannockbum, which is two and a half miles south, where Bruce defeated Edward II., with 100,000 against 30,000, on the 14th June, 1314. As Stirling is justly admired for the richness of its landscapes and the gran- deur of the sxirroimding scenery, the tourist should not omit to visit the interesting objects in its neighbourhood. Dumiat, the highest of the Ochil hills, at the distance of a morning's walk, commands one of the noblest views anywhere to be met with ; or you may have the same view, somewhat softened, from a height in the grounds of Airthrey, still nearer than Dumiat. Should leisure permit, you may also feel disposed to make an excursion to Dunblane, distant six miles, and the Roman camp of Ardoch, about twelve miles distant. Bridge of Allan is a popu- lar watering-place, three miles from Stirling, which is noted for the beauty of its scenery and the healthiness of its climate ; at Airthrey are some mineral springs, the waters of which are collected in an old copper mine. The grounds and spa belonging to Lord Abercrom- by possess a handsome well- house, with a billiard-room, reading-room , and bowling-green. The village abounds in lodging- houses which are noted for com- fort. There are three excellent Hotels, Royal, Queen's, and Tem- perance. There is also a large Hy- dropathic Establishment. Three miles from Bridge of Allan is Dunblane. The hotel is Mar- shall's. Here is the mag- 96 Route 14.— STIRLING TO GLASGO W. Scotland. nificent cathedral, founded by King David I. in 1140. The choir is used as the parish church. Two miles from here is the site of the battle of Sheriff- muir, which took place in 1715 ; the battle, of which the old song says — " Some say that we wan, Some say that they wan, And some say that nane wan at a', man; But o'ae thing I'm sure, That at Sheritfmuir A battle there was that I saw, man, An* we ran, an' they ran, An' they ran, an' we ran, An' we ran, an they ran awa', man.' ' A large block of whinstone stands on the field, enclosed in an iron grating ; it is called the " Gather- ing Stone of the Clans," and is said to mark the spot where the Highlanders sharpened their dirks before the battle. Doune is eight miles from Stirling, and contains one of the largest baronial ruins in Scotland ; a fine castle, the walls of which are forty feet in height and ten in thickness. A pleasant excursion may be made from Stirling to Castle Campbell, the Rumbling Bridge, and Falls of Devon and Kinross, returning to Edinburgh by way of Dunfermline. . Route 14. STIRLING TO GLASGOW. fAKING our place once more in a railway car- riage, we cross the Forth, leaving the Castle on the left, and on the right the Ochil Hills. Thence we leave behind us Bridge of Annan, Keir, and Kippinross, with the pleasantly wooded banks of Allan Water, famous in song. At a distance of 41 miles from Stir- . ling we again enter Dunblane, beyond which the first station is the village of Doune, eight miles from Stirling, famous for its castle, which is said to have been built about the commencement of the fifteenth century, by Murdoch, Duke of Albany. It overhangs the point of a steep and narrow green bank, washed on one side by the Teith, and on the other by a small mountain burn. This interesting structure is depicted in the pages of " Waverley," as the stronghold whither his High- land captors carried that English chevalier. The village of Doune was of old celebrated for the manufacture of Highland pistols. The Bridge of Doune, was erected across the Teith by Robert Spittal, tailor to Margaret, wife of James IV., and the founder of Spittal' s Hospital, at Stirling. Leaving Doune, we pass on the right the Braes of Doune, Doune Lodge, or Cambuswallace, the residence of the Earl of Moray ; and farther on, to the left, the ruins of Kilmadock Church. Cambusmore being left behind us, we cross the Keltie, and reaching the terminus leave the train at Callender, 13 miles from Stirling, where the chief hotels are Mr. McGregors and The Dreadnought. This village stands nearly at the foot of Ben Ledi, and is about seven or eight miles from the Trosachs, or "bristling country," through which the tourist passes on his way from Stirling to Lock Ka- trine, the scenery wherein Scott's " Lady of the Lake " opens. Its population is about 884. Loch Scotland. Route 14.— STIRLING TO GLASGOW. 97 Katrine may be reached by coach. Gartchonzie "Wood, " the wood of lamentations," is in this neighbourhood ; a place so called from a legend about a demon, or " water kelpie," which appeared there to a number of children, and dragged them with it un- derneath the waters. Near the west end of the lake, — " Vennachar in silver flows." LochKatrine is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and is reached after a few miles, the carriages being left, and another steamer taken at Stronaclachar (or Coalbams). There is a little landing at the extreme end of the, lake, from which a glorious view can be caught of almost its en- tire length, and of the historical mountains that gird it. Leaving the strath and reach- ing Loch Katrine, we pass down the lake on the steamer, noting first Ellen's Isle, a very small wooded island to the left, where the meeting between Fitz James and Douglas is supposed to have taken place, and where the im- mortal young lady was seen with her boat and paddles ; and a little farther onward, to the right, the giantmountain,BEN Venu, ragged and craggy, with " the sunshine rippling down the green, between its iretwork of bulging crags." The sharp-pointed summit of Ben A' an marks the pass through the Trosachs, through which the Knight of Snowdoun made his way towards Stirling. "We soon land, all too soon, at a little covered toy wharf at the foot of the lake, where open carriages are again taken, for the ride through the Trosachs to Callen- dar. The scenery is now among the finest in Scotland, and so con- tinues for miles — wild, wooded, craggy, mountainous. A halt is usually made for lunch at the plea- santly situated hotel of Ard- CHiNCHROCHDHAN,underthebrow of Ben A' an. Two or three miles away, across the valley and loch in front of the hotel, lies The Clachan of Aberfoil, so well re- membered by all readers of "Bob Boy ; " and those who remain for a day at Ardchinchrochdhan (as many do) should make the short excursion to the little Highland hamlet of Diana Vernon and Cap- tain Galbraith. From Ardchinchrochdhan the tourist pushes on, still by carriage, through the pass, amid splendid mountain scenery, much of which may remind you of that at the Franconia Notch of the "White Mountains. Very soon after leaving here, Loch Achray appears on the right; and then the Turk "Water is crossed by the " Brigg of Turk $ " — Some of the very finest of the Highland scenery is here, for to the left, shortly afterwards, are seen the tall pines of wild Glen- finlass, the back of the heathery Craig More and the Glenfinlass hills ; with Loch Vennachar to the right, with beautiful Lanrick Mead (" Glendrig ") on its border, where the Clan Alpen always gathered, and whence the sum- mons of the fiery cross went out in the poem. At the western extremity of the loch there is an aqueduct, by which water is conveyed a distance of thirty-four miles to Glasgow. Ben Lomond is here on our left, and at Stronach- 98 Route 14.— STIRLING TO GLASGOW. Scotland. lachar Pier a coach will convey us to "the queen of Scottish lakes," Loch Lomond, five miles onward, the numerous islands of ■which are very beautiful. The hotel at Loch Lomond is Blair's. The area of the great lake is 45 square miles ; it is nearly thirty miles long, and at its southern extremity the width is over eight miles, but northward it is less than one. Several streams, the chief of which is Endrick, find their way into the lake, the over- flow of which is carried off by the Leven, and through it reaches the Clyde. On the loch is the island of Invertjglas, on which stands the remains of a castle once owned by the Macfarlanes. At Balloch, situated at the southern extremity of the lake, steamers ply, by the aid of which the upper part of the loch may be visited. At Inversnaid is a waterfall, which Wordsworth described in his " Highland Girl." Here was erected a fort to dislodge Bob Boy from his hold on the eastern side of the loch ; and here, too, Wolfe, the great British general, served as a subaltern. Rob Boy's Cave is a short distance up the lake; and this is further notable as that in which Bobert the Bruce took refuge in 1306, after the battle of Dalrigh. We may here note that in Scotland all arms of the sea which advance far inland, as well as fresh- water lakes, are called lochs. The finest view of Ben Lomond will be obtained at Tarbet, which is a favourite resort for tourists, who find accommodation at the Tarbet Hotel. Those who are bound for Inverary, via Glencoe, land here. The ascent of Ben Lomond may be made conve- niently from this place. The distance to its top is about four miles. Ponies are kept for the ascent. The steamer recrossing the loch Stops at BOWARDENNAN PlER, where an excellent hotel exists. Again crossing the loch, the steamer stops at Luss, where also there is a good hotel. From here to Balmaha Pier we pass on the right Inchtavanach, Inchconna- chan, Inchfad, and Inchcailloch ; and on the left, Inchlonaig. From Balmaha to Balloch Pier we pass on the right Inchmurrin, the largest of the islands, which is preserved by the Duke of Montrose as a deer park. On the left, stands Boturich Castle, and about a mile from the pier, Bal- loch Castle. At Balloch Pier we take the railway for Glasgow. This city we have already de- scribed — a city which, in the ex- tent of its trade, wealth, and popu- lation, ranks second to Liverpool and London, although it was anciently nothing more than a miserable little fishing village. The new university was formally opened in 1870. Its foundation stone was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1868. In 1611 James VI. granted the city an ample charter by which it was erected into a royal burgh. Of this fine and flourishing city Andrew Park wrote — " Let Glasgow flourish by the word And might of every merchant lord, And institutions which afford Good homes the poor to nourish." The manufactures of Glasgow consist largely of coarse linens and sailcloth. There are also sugar refineries here; and it is the principal port on the Clyde Scotland. Route 15.— EDINBURGH TO PERTH. 99 for the importation of North American timber. The station of the South-west- ern and Greenock Railway is in Bridge Street, that of the Edin- burgh and Glasgow in Dundas Street, and the Caledonian in Port Dundas Eoad. At the Caledonian south-side station you book for Bothwell and Hamilton. The shortest route from Glas- gow to Edinburgh, with a glance at the Highlands, may be made in a single day, though two would be more satisfactory. Route 15. EDINBURGH TO PERTH AND INVERNESS. ^ MASSING Dunblane sta- rjjfr tion, through a moorland i tract,calledSherriffMuir, we reach Greek Loam- iNG,forty-nve miles from Edinburgh. Leaving this place in our rear, on the left we note Ardoch House, marking the site of a celebrated Roman camp. The Grampian Hills, mentioned in the play of Norval, grow higher and more distinct as we proceed. Near Blachf ord stands Kincardine Castle, and five miles farther on Auchterarder Fort. Teviot is a few miles beyond this, near Forgandenny, where we enter a tunnel, cut through the hills of Moncrieffe, a mile and a quarter long, emerging from which we reach Perth. Perth is one of the most ncient and handsome towns in Scotland. It is situated on the west bank of the Tay, upon an extensive level plain, divided into the North and South Inches, each about a mile and a half in circumference, and where three tracts of vast fertility— the Carse of Gowrie, Strathmore, and Strathearn — may be said to terminate and unite. "When Agricola and his army, in advanc- ing into the territory of the Caledonians, first beheld the Tay, and the plain upon which Perth now stands, they were so struck with the resemblance to the Tiber and its banks in the vicinity of Rome, that with one consent they exclaimed, in a transport of enthusiasm, " Ecce Tiber ! Ecce Campus Martius /" Agricola pitched his camp upon the present site of Perth, and afterwards built what he intended should be a colonial town. He fortified it with walls and a castle, threw a wooden bridge over the Tay, and filled the ditches with water by an aqueduct from the Almond, which still exists, and continues to supply the mills and public wells of the city. Perth, on account of its im- portance, and its vicinity to the royal palace of Scone, was long considered the capital of Scotland, before Edinburgh acquired that proud distinction. It possesses the peculiarity of bein°; a city without having been the resi- dence of a bishop, or the seat of a university. Parliaments and assemblies of the Church were frequently held here ; and here also many of the nobility had their residence. It is a city of 25,000 inhabit- ants. The principal hotel is the George. The streets are regular and well built, having two beauti- ful greens or commons called Inches, one being the racecourse, and the other being planted like a park, each measuring a mile 100 Route 15.— EDINBURGH TO PERTH. Scotland. and a quarter in circumference. The houses are very handsome and commodious, and huilt principally of freestone. It was here that the Pretender was proclaimed king in 1745. Here, in 1336, Edward III. of Eng- land stabbed his brother. The principal buildings and the public monuments are — the County Hall, erected on the site of the house where the con- spirators of the "GowriePlot" assembled; the Public Library, erected in 1823, above which is the Museum of the Literary and Antiquarian Society ; the Aca- demy ; the Freemasons' Hall, &c. The Queen inaugurated, in 1864, the statue of the late Prince Consort. The suburbs of Perth afford many agreeable excursions. The views from Moncrieffe Hill, on the right bank of the Tay , and Kinnoull Hill, on the left bank, are particularly fine. Visits may be conveniently made to Dupp- lin Castle, the Bridge of Earn, Pitcaithly "Wells, andthe Palace of Scone, the seat of Lord Mansfield (2^ miles.) Scone is called by some the capital of the Pictish kingdom, and it unquestion- ably was the residence of the Scottish monarchs so early as the reign of Kenneth MacAlpin. On a tumulus still existing, termed the Mote Hill of Scone, they held their courts of justice ; this mound is sometimes called Omnis Ttrra, probably from the circum- stances of Malcolm II. having there conferred hereditary grants of all the lands of Scotlaud upon his numerous barons. Otherwise it is called Boot hill, in allusion to a supposed ancient practice, of bringing to this place a bootful of earth from different estates, when the proprietors were to receive their investitures from the monarch. Here are preserved, amongst other curiosities, the bed of James VI. (James I. of England) ; another bed, covered with red velvet, reputed to have been embroidered by Mary Queen of Scots, while confined in Loch Leven Castle, the Beauvais tapestry, several valu- able pictures, &c. The great gallery, about 150 feet long, occupies the site of the hall where the sovereigns were crowned. In 838 the Culdees founded an abbey here ; soon afterwards the famous stone, reckoned the Palladium of Scotland, and on which the Scottish kings were crowned, was transferred from Dunstaffnage to this abbey,* until its removal in 1296 by Ed- ward I. to Westminster Abbey, where it is still to be seen, with its ancient in scription upon it, — '• Ni fallat fatum, Scoti quocunque locatum Invenient lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem." In 1115 Alexander I. drove the Culdees out of the abbey, dedicated it to the Trinity and the archangel Michael, and com- mitted it to the canons regular of St. Augustine. This abbey, at the time of the Reformation, was destroyed by a mob from Dundee ; but its aisle still re- mains, and is used as a cemetery by the noble family of Mansfield, who, inheriting the title and estate of the ancient family of Stormont, are now the proprietors of Scone. * This stone is said to have been Jacob's pillow, and also the justice Beat of G-ethalus in Spain, a con- temporary of Moses. Scotland. Route 15.— EDINBURGH TO INVERNESS. 101 The old Palace of Scone, which was pulled down before the erec- tion of the present building, was commenced by the Earl of Gow- rie, and completed in 1606 by- Lord Scone, afterwards Viscount Stormont. Perth contains rope -waits, dye-works, breweries, tanyards, and foundries. Amongst its THE ANCIENT COBONATION CHAIR OB SCOTLAND, _ who after the forfeiture of Gow- rie obtained a grant of the lands NOW IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY. manufactures are coloured cotton stuffs, ginghams, shawls, and cutlery. Perth is also a tele- graph station. 102 Route 15. —EDINBURGH TO INVERNESS. Scotland. Perth to Inverness. — Leav- ing the Palace of Scone on the left, we cross the road, and at a distance of 7i miles pass Stanley Junction, soon after reaching — Dunkeld, a town in the valley of the Tay, and on the left bank of the river, shut in by lofty mountains, wooded from base to s ummit . This place has a population of 2,104. It is fifteen and a half miles from Perth, and contains the remains of a famous cathe- dral , partly Norman and partly of the first pointed period : the choir was rebuilt by the late Duke of Athol on the original model, at an expense of £5,000, and is used as a place of worship. At the west end rises a buttressed tower 90 feet in height and 24 feet square, and adjoining it a small octagonal watch-tower. But- tresses project between the win- dows, surmounted, above the church, by traceried pinnacles. The great aisle measures 120 by 60 feet: the walls are 48 feet high, and the side aisles 12 feet wide. On each side are seven spacious Gothic arches, with fluted soffits, resting on six plain Norman pillars, having shafts ten feet high and four and a half in diameter, and two half-columns. Over the arches there are two tiers of windows, the lower semi- circular, the higher acute. The windows of the side aisles are all of different designs. There is a statue of a bishop in his robes, under a crocketed canopy. The new church is handsomely fitted up. In the spacious vestry at the east end is the gigantic stone effigy, arrayed in panoply of mail, which formerly, in the old church of this place, surmounted the grave of the notorious Wolf of Badenoch, the natural son of Robert I. The bishopric of Dunkeld was established by David I., a.d. 1127. Gregory was the name of its first bishop . Eobert Creigh- ton, the last and thirty-ninth bishop, died in 1550. Bishop Sinclair built the choir in 1339. The great aisle was completed in 1450 ; the chapterhouse added in 1469, and the tower in 1501. Immediately behind the cathedral stands the ancient palace of the Dukes of Athol. It is an old- fashioned square building ; but a magnificent new mansion was commenced by the late duke, the progress of which has, however, been suspended since his death. At the end of the cathedral the stranger is shown the first two larches introduced into this country : they were originally treated as greenhouse plants, but are now 90 feet high, and one of them measures 15 feet in circumference two feet above the ground. Hence the visitor is conducted along the east bank of the Tay, by a terraced walk over- shadowed by enormous larches and beeches. About a mile from the town of Dunkeld is where stood Ossian's Hall, or the Hermitage, by the river Braan, whence a beautiful view is obtained of a cascade formed by the river at this point. The mirrored pavilion which stood here was destroyed maliciously in the year 1869. Farther up the stream we come to Ossian's Cave, and to another cascade of about 50 feet high, where underneath Rumbling Bridge the river Braan precipitates itself in several dis- tinct falls. At Pitlochry is FasJc ally House, near the confluence of the Turn- Scotland. Route 15.— EDINBURGH TO INVERNESS. 103 mel and the Garry. Killiecran- kie is next seen, the famous Pass where, in 1689, Graham of Claver- honse was shot hy a concealed as- sassin, after gaining a victory over the Royalists. Three miles be- yond is Blair A tholl. Ahout 1 milefrom Dalwhinnie (58|miles from Edinhurgh) is Loch Ericht, 20 miles in length and 1 mile wide, to the north of which rises a mountain named Benalder, where Prince Charles Edward concealed himself in a cavern, after the disastrous hattle of Cul- loden. "We next reach Kingus- sie, and on the opposite hank of the Spey see the ruins of Ruthven Barracks, destroyed hy the Highlanders in 1746. Two miles off is Belville House, near which is an ohelisk raised in me- mory of Macpherson, the trans- lator of Ossian. Passengers who desire to visit Cairngorm, or go hy the mountains to Braemar, descend at Aviemore. Fore.es is duly reached. This is a town of Elginshire, holding 4,000 inhahitants, containing several puhlic huildings, and the remains of a castle once the resi- dence of the Earls of Moray. Nairn is known as the residence of a poetess, Lady Nairn, authoress of some sweet Scottish hallads. The manufacture of Forres is woollen fahric. On Cluny Hill, near the town, there is a memorial to Nelson. The Heath of Forres is mentioned in the tragedy of Macbeth. Close to the ruins of the castle is a sandstone pillar sculptured with figures, called Sweno's Stone. This is supposed to commemorate a victory over the Danes. The population is 3,508. Forres is 119£ miles from Perth, and \2\ miles from Elgin. Passing Orunmossie Moor, or Culloden, the scene of a great hattle in which the Pretender was defeated, we reach — Inverness. It is a large hand- some town , at the head of the inner or Inverness Firth (or •" Beauly Firth"). It is the virtual capital of the Eastern Highlands, lying at the mouth of the river Ness. The town is a seaport, and has many advantages of location, presenting strikingly picturesque views, especially at and around its port, at the Ness, and the point at which the Caledonian Canal commences. Commercially, apart from its being the terminus of a great line of railway and a minor port, Inverness is notable as supplying one of the largest wool markets in Europe (it has an immense wool fair of three days every year in July), and as form- ing a great depot for the sale of highland plaids, dresses, and ornaments. The castle, a pic- turesque modern building, stands near the port. Shaksperian stu- dents, who make any sojourn, will he sure to visit Cawdor Cas- tle, at some distance, alleged to have heen once the residence of Macheth — and the ruins of Old Inverness Castle, down the Ness, identified as the residence and scene of the murder of King Dun- can ; while the lovers of Jacobite lore enj oy opportunities of visiting Culloden, and many other points of interest connected with the un- fortunate last of the Stuarts. The principal huildings in the town are the Town Hall, the Assembly Eooms, the Royal Infirmary, the Royal Academy, endowed hy the Mcintosh Fund, a theatre, various schools, a mechanics' institute, and others. Some parts of the ancient ramparts of the castle are 104 Route 16.— PERTH TO ABERDEEN. Scotland. still visible, but on its site now stands the court-house and gaol. Inverness being the great tho- roughfare to the northern coun- ties is always well filled with visitors duriug the season. It is a telegraph station. The popula- tion is over 15,000, and the town is one of great antiquity, its streets are cleau, and the houses well built. The river Ness, both sides of which are occupied by the town, is crossed by a fine suspension bridge. James I. held a Parlia- ment here, at which nearly all the Scottish chiefs gave in their alle- giance. The castle was blown up in 1746 by the troops of Prince Charles Stuart. The principal manufactures are linen, leather, hempen cloth, and cordage. Tar- tan cloth is largely made here, and the town also contains rope- walks, iron-foundries, candle- works, breweries, and distilleries. The shipping of Inverness is con- siderable, the tonnage of the port being over ten thousand. One of the principal excursions from the city is to Craig -Phadrick, a vitri- fied fort, which lies about a mile to the west. If the American tra- veller should be at Inverness about the 20th of September he will witness the great meeting of the clans. The Highland games are very interesting, and several days are spent in such amuse- ments. The principal hotel is the Caledonian. "We are here in the neighbour- hood of Urqlhart Castle, which stands in ruins at the mouth of Glen Urquhart. The Castle, which dates back to the 13th century, was built on an isolated rock, and separated from the hill behind it by a wall 25 feet high and 16 broad : its situa- tion is a very picturesque ore. The Wicks of Baiglie should be visited here. Koute 16. PERTH TO ABERDEEN. gsJS^UR next journey is one /S^M^k of 90 miles, the fares ™|| for which by ordinary \}^Mp trains are— -first class, 15s.; second, lis. 3d.; and third, 8s. "When we have got 2 miles on our way we get another glimpse of Scone (see page 78), pass Luncarty, and arrive at Stanley Junction, from which Dunkeld may be reached by a branch line. The ruins of Kin- claven Castle, which was cap- tured by "Wallace, lie near Car- gill, about 11 miles from Perth; and a few miles beyond is Cou- par Angus, where the ruins of an ancient monastery founded bv Malcolm IV. still exist. The hotel there is the Strathmore Arms, and there is a branch line running between this place and Blairgowrie, in the vicinity of which are numerous circles of Druidical stones called Her Cairns. Leaving Meigle, the churchyard of which contains some curiously carved stones in • memory of Varona, wife of King Arthur, we arrive at — Gtlammis, a village celebrated in history for a castle in which Malcolm II. was assassinated in 1034. Its walls are 15 feet thick, and it has a staircase consisting of 143 steps, leading to a lofty tower, from whence you get a splendid view. In 1732 Robert II. bestowed it on John Lyon, the ancestor of the present family. Here is, according to tradition, the bedstead on which King Dun- can was murdered by Macbeth, and many other relics of anti- quity. In visiting this gloomy Route 16.— PERTH TO ABERDEEN. 105 vaulted apartment, called " the King's Boom," a feeling of super- stition " comes o'er us like a sum- mer cloud," awful rather than painful. The whole place well deserves the attention of the tourist. In the churchyard is an obelisk to the memory of Mal- colm II., who died here 1034, after a long reign of 30 years. In Glammis Castle the supposed sword and armour of Macbeth are exhibited. In 1537 the young and lovely Countess of Glammis was publicly burnt as a witch in Edinburgh. Near Meigle is DunsignanHill, where Macbeth was besieged by Malcolm III., 1057. In the churchyard are the remains of Pictish monuments, and other in- teresting objects of antiquity. Forfar is a manufacturing town, the chief in Forfarshire, in the vale of Strathmore, where linen sheetings, dowlas, and a kind of shoes called brogues are made. It is the capital of Angus, has a population of 9,258, is a telegraph station, and is 32f miles on our way. Five miles be- yond is Auldbar, near which are the remains of a Eoman encamp- ment and the Hill of Guthrie. Crossing Lunan "Water we plunge into a deep cutting, pass Guthrie Castle and Junction, and Farnell Eoad, near Kinnaird Castle, leave behind us the Bridge of Dun, and arrive at Dubton Junction, where there is a line to Montrose, in Forfarshire. This town stands near the mouth of the Esk, 34 miles S."W. from Aberdeen, on a flat, sandy penin- sula, washed on one side by the German Ocean, and with the basin of Montrose on the other. Montrose, which is somewhat suggestive of a Flemish town, has two lighthouses at its en- trance, some excellent quays and a spacious dock. It is considered a fashionable place, and is of some importance as a commer- cial and manufacturing town. Here were born Joseph Hume, the financial reformer, and James Graham, Marquis of Montrose. It has a population of 15,455, and is a telegraph station. "We next pass Drumlithie and Stone- haven, where stand the ruins of Dunnottar Castle upon the summit of a rock, 160 feet above the level of the sea. It was built during the contention between Bruce and Baliol, by Sir William Keith, the great Marischal of Scotland, but many additions were subsequently made to it. On the land side the castle has been rendered inaccessible, ex- cepting by a narrow, steep, and winding path over a deep gully. In 1296 this castle was taken from the English by William Wallace; it was re-fortified by Edward III., but retaken by the guardian, Six Andrew Moray. In 1651 the regalia of the kingdom were deposited here to preserve them from the English republi- can army; and a garrison was placed in the castle under the command of Ogilvy of Ban-as. The garrison held out with great resolution for a long period against the English, commanded by Lambert, hut was ultimately reduced by famine. Previously to this, however, the regalia were conveyed away by stratagem, and hid under the pulpit of KinnefF Church. Mrs. Granger, wife of the minister of KinnefF, having obtained permission to visit Mrs. Ogilvy, the governor's lady, packed up the crown in some 106 Route 16.— PERTH TO ABERDEEN. Scotland. clothes, and carried it out of the castle in her lap, while her maid carried the sword and sceptre in a hag of flax upon her hack. At the Restoration, Ogilvy, for this good service, was made a baronet, and the brother of the Earl Mari- schal was created Earl of Kin- tore ; nor were honest Mr. Granger and his wife forgotten. From thence to Cove we pass on, and rounding the eastern ex- tremity to the Grampian Hills cross the Dee, and so gain our present destination — Aberdeen, the chief town of Aberdeenshire, situated on the banks of the river Dee, about a mile from its entrance into the North Sea, and 92 miles N.E. from Edinburgh. The city con- sists of two separated parts called respectively the new and the old, the latter being about a mile northward. It has a granite pier l,500feetlong,and at its excellent harbour's entrance, there stands on Girdle Ness a lighthouse having two lights. It has a fine old cathedral, erected in the old town called St. Malacha. New Aberdeen, calledthe Gran- ite city, is a handsome place, with many elegant streets and houses, the latter generally four stories high, built of granite. The principal street is Union Street. In the middle of Castle Street is the most complete ancient market cross in the kingdom. It is a hexagon, ornamented with portraits in alto relievo of the kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII.; in the centre of the structure is a Corinthian column surmounted with a unicorn ; it is kept in a state of high preservation. The church of St. Nicholas, contain- ing the east and west churches, is a handsome fabric ; the east part originally formed the choir of the ancient church, and is a fine relic of Gothic architecture. The west church is a modern building. About a mile from Old Aberdeen is the old Brig of Balgownie,said to have been constructed in the reign of Robert I., and consist- of a single arch. It is mentioned in Lord Byron's "Don Juan." There are several, delightful ex- cursions which the tourist may make from Aberdeen at a mode- rate expense. If fond of High- land scenery he should not omit going up the Dee to Castletown of Braemar, which lies in the very centre of the Grampian moun- tains, from which he can either return to Aberdeen by Strathdon or to Edinburgh. There is also a road from Castletown to Blair Atholl. Of Strathdee, Dr. Mac Culloch says it is superior to any other in Scotland in the displays of its wildly alpine boundary, and yields to none in magnificence and splendour. Aberdeen was known to the Romans about the year of Christ 84, and at a very remote period it had a respectable share of com- merce. In 1153 it was visited by the adventurous Normans. In 1179 it was pillaged by the Normans, and in the same year the conqueror "William granted the town a charter. Aberdeen contains a population of nearly 100,000 souls. The principal hotel is the Royal. Its principal manu- factures are cotton, flax, wool, and iron. Shipbuilding is carried on to a considerable extent. The shipping is quite extensive, and " Aberdeen clippers," are familiar to all naval men. There are regu- lar steam lines running from here to London, Leith, and Hull. Aberdeen contains nearly fifty Route IS. —PERTH TO DUNDEE. 107 different religions edifices. King's College University was founded in 1494 by James IV., and Marischal University in the Old Town was founded by the Earl Marischal or Marshal of Scotland in 1593. The postoffice is in Old Aberdeen. Route 17. ABERDEEN TO BALMORAL BY BALLATER. REAVING Aberdeen, we ' reach the station of Banchory on the Dee- 1 side Railway. It was here the Battle of Corrichee was fought in 1562 before Mary Queen of Scots. Then we come to Lumphanan, where it is said Macbeth was buried beneath one of the many cairns in this vicinity. Reaching Aboyne, we see Loch Kinnord; here, on one of the islands, is a ruined castle, situated on a rock rising on the east side of the Water of Cluanadh. This is said to have belonged to Mal- colm Canmore. We now arrive at Ballater railway terminus, 43 miles from Edinburgh. The Invercauld Arms is the hotel here. This is a place much esteemed for its mineral waters. The romantic pass of Ballater forms the eastern barrier to the H ighlands . In winter the storms are very terrible. Abergeldie Castle is about eight miles above Ballater. It stands on the south bank of the Dee, with the tops of Lochnagar darkly frowning in the distance. IS ear Tulloch, a village two miles from Ballater are the ruins of Dee castle. On the opposite bank of the Dee at a farm house called Ballatrech, Byron as a boy passed a good deal of time with his mother; but there is not much of the old house left excepting the barn, and the bedstead on which Byron used to sleep. Twelve miles from here Lochnagar is situated, which is often visited by tourists. Balmoral Castle is nine miles from Ballater and is reached by coach, passing through charming scenery. Abergeldie Castle is seven miles from Ballater : this is now the Scotch residence of the Prince of Wales, having formerly belonged to the Duchess of Kent. After passing Aber- geldie Castle we see the spire of Crathie Free Church, where the Queen and her family attend while at Balmoral. Here also is an obelisk to the memory of the Prince Consort. Balmoral Castle was pur- chased by the Prince Consort from the Earl of Fife. It is a castellated building, resembling the old baronial castles of Scotland. A private bridge crosses the Dee to the castle, situated below the hill of Craig-na-Gowan. Admission to view the castle may be readily obtained during the absence of the Royal Family. Route 18. PERTH TO DUNDEE. ^SITING Prince's station we cross the river Tay, and come to Kinnoull Hills, and Kinfanns by keeping along the left bank of the Frith of Tay. On one side of the river will be seen the ruins of Elcho Castle. We next reach Glencase, 108 Route 19.— MELROSE TO PENRITH. Scotland. and Errol in the midst of a fertile country, and known as the Carse of Gowrie. Ten miles farther on we come to Megginch Castle, also Dunsig- nan Hill, where once stood the Castle of Macbeth. Three and a half miles farther we reach Inchture, where Rossie Priory, the seat of Lord Kennard stands. H ere there is a very fine collec- tion of pictures. Two miles further on we near Longforgan, whence on an eminence to the left may be seen Huntly Castle, and on the right the remains of Dron Chapel. Four miles farther on we reach Invergowrie and see the ruins of Invergowrie Church, and farther on to the left Gray House, Camperdown Hol t se and the ruins of N aughton Castle. A short distance from Gray House may he seen a sin- gular church, called Fowlis Easter Church. We now reach Dundee, 8 miles from the open sea, and three miles from Invergowrie. The Hotels are the Royal, the British. It has a Town Hall, a Trades' Hall, and Kennard Hall for concerts. The Albert Institute, erected as a monument to the Prince Consort, contains a free library. The Royal Exchange, a new Royal Infirmary, a handsome Court house and several other buildings are also notable. The manu- factures here are linen, canvas, sailcloth, sackcloth, cotton, bag- ging, all for exportation, there are large spinning-wheels in the neighbourhood. Besides these, a large trade is done in gloves and machinery ; there are also sugar refineries, breweries, tanyards, and shipbuilding docks. The making of marmalade formed a large addition to the trades car- ried on here. It has a telegraph station. The population of the parliamentary borough is 90,417. Dundee is very accessible from many places by boat and rail. It is the terminus of the Dun- dee and Arbroath, Dundee and Alyth, and Dundee and Perth sta- tions of the Caledonian Railway. Route 19. MELROSE TO GALASHIELS AND PENRITH. §Y taking early train this excursion may be done in one day. From Melrose a drive of three miles west brings us to Abbotsford and four miles east to Dryburgh. Abbotsford House is open from ten to six, or until dusk in the winter (see page 111). Three miles from Edin- burgh is Portobello, where are the grounds of Dalhousie Castle, with tbe Pentland Hills to the right. Two miles past Gorbridge station are Crighton and Borth- wick Castles. From Borthwick Castle Mary Queen of Scots fled in the disguise of a page after her marriage with Bothwell. The next place of importance we reach is Galashiels, a parlia- mentary borough, which has sev- eral churches, chapels, Corn Ex- change, Mechanics' Institute, and libraries. Its manufactures are, coarse woollen cloth, blankets, hosiery, tweeds, etc., and in its woollen mills it employs be- tween 4,000 and 5,000 hands. It is a telegraph station. Popula- tion 6,433. There is a branch line of rail connecting the North British with the Caledonian Rail- way via Peebles. We now reach Melrose. The hotels here are, Scotland. Route 19.— MELROSE TO PENRITH. 109 the Abbey,* George, and Xing' s- Arms. Not far from the town are the remains of the famous Melrose Abbey, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture. It is in ruins, with a single exception of the church ; yet its ornaments and carvings are as crisp and sharp as if newly cut. This abbey was founded early in the twelfth cen- tury by King David I. Many of close by the entrance ; it is usual to give her a small fee. We now proceed by the side of Gala Water, passing Heriot Fountainhall and Stow which has a population of 2,171- At one time the Bishops of St. Andrew's resided here. Thorle- stone Castle lies to the left of Stow. Passing Bowland we reach Galashiels, a market and MELROSE ABBEY. the Scottish royal families were interred here, among whom was Alexander II. The heart of Robert Bruce, of which Scott tells the touching story, is also buried here. The Abbey was almost destroyed in 1322 by the English. The Monks' Walk was a favourite resort of Sir Walter Scott. The woman who keeps the keys lives posttown; the populationis 6,433. This has a telegraph station. We now pass Abbotsford, Melrose, and reach St. Boswell's station, the junction for Kelso, Dundee and Jedburgh. We proceed from Belses to Hazeldean or Hassen- dean, so well known in the song of "Jocko' Hazeldean" — On the left are seen Ruber's Law, and 110 Route 19.-— MELROSE TO PENRITH. Scotland. Minto Castle ; passing Hawick. During the border raids this place suffered much from the frequent inroads of the English. The population is 8,191. The chief manufactures here are lambs- wool, stockings, gloves, leather and thongs. It is a telegraph station. On the right of Hawick may be seen the Bbanksome Castle, mentioned in Sir Walter Scott's " Lay of the last Min- strel." At Stobs we see Stobs Castle. Thence we come to Biccarton Junction, where the Border Counties Bailway turns off to the left for Newcastle. "We then enter Liddesda le and pass near Steele Bo ad, not far from Hermitage Castle the seat of the Duke of Buccleugh. Pass- ing New Castleton we set foot in England at Kershope Foot. Pass- ing some other small stations we join the Carlisle and Dumfries Bailway near Longtown and arrive at — Carlisle, a muncipal parlia- mentary borough, the county town of Cumberland, with a population of 32,000. It is a telegraph station. Carlisle is situated near the confluence of the rivers Eden and Caldew. In olden times it was a military post of great strength, having a castle and citadel ; the castle so situated as to command the passage of the river Eden. In 1568 Queen Mary was a prisoner here. The town suffered severely in the civil wars for having espoused the cause of Charles I. It surrendered to Prince Charles Stuart, in 1745, but was taken by "William, Duke of Cumberland. The castle is traditionally said to have been built by Egfrid, King of North- umberland, in the 7th century, but the present building and walls are ascribed to King "Wil- liam Bufus. The Hotels are the County, adjoining the Bailway Station, the Bush, Red Lion, &c. The city contains a market-place, guildhall, town-hall, council- chamber, infirmary, dispensary, County lunatic asylum, theatre, news-rooms, libraries, assembly rooms, mechanics' institute. The Cathedral is a venerable edifice, partly of Saxon, and partly Gothic architecture, which has recently been restored and repaired ; it has an abbey attached, which was completed by Henry I., and it contains some excellent painted glass, and a very beautiful monu- ment in Sicilian marble to the late lamented Bishop "Waldegrave. There is also a quaint runic inscription of ancient date. In 1871 the fine old Norman architecture of the na\e was restored, and a costly reredos was added in 1873. Carlisle possesses an excellent Grammar School, several high- class Ladies' Semi- naries, and the salubrity of the climate renders it an attractive place of residence. Silloth, a watering place on the Solway Firth, 20 miles west of Carlisle, boasts of a temperature as mild as that of Torquay. There is a very handsome bridge here over the Eden nearly a quarter of a mile long. Its manufactures are cotton in all its branches, leather, hardware, woollens and commodi- ties. It has, besides breweries, foundries, woollen and Tweed works. Leaving Carlisle we pass Penrith, a market and post town, irregularly built. It has a free grammar school, founded in 1564. A market place, a museum of natural curiosities, assembly rooms, bath house, mechanics' institute. Its manufactures are Route 19.— MELROSE TO PENRITH. Ill woollen, linen, and cotton fabrics. The hotels are, New Crown and George. The ruins of the castle, overlooking this town, are ex- ceedingly picturesque and roman- tic. For along time Bichard III. resided here. In the burying- ground of St. Andrew's Church is a curious monument called the Giant's Grave, which consists of am Castle, supposed to have been formerly the site of a Roman station, where coins and other antiquities have been discovered. Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, is a fine picturesque building, a short distance from the castle. The connection of the old Saxon family of Brougham with this famous castle is of great ABBOTSFORD, THE SEAT OF SIE WALTEB SCOTT. two stone pillars,eleven feet high, standing one at each end of a grave, if grave it be, fifteen feet in length. Between these pillars are four stones covered with un- intelligible carvings. Another stone close by is called the Giant's Thumb. Nearly two miles from Penrith are the ruins of Brough- antiquity, the name being de- rived from Burgham, the ancient Brocavum of the Bomans. The estate of Burgham belonged to the family before the conquest. Between one and two miles from Penrith is King Arthur's Round Table, a circular area more than twenty yards in diameter. 112 Route 20.— EDINBURGH TO BERWICK- ON- TWEED. " Long Meg and her daugh- ters," about six miles from Pen- rith are interesting relics of antiquity. They consist of a circle 350 yards in circumference of 67 stones, many of which are 10 feet high. A square column of red freestone, eighteen feet high and fifteen feet in circumference is the Long Meg of the group. In the neighbourhood of Penrith are numerous country seats of English gentry and noble fami- lies. Three miles west of Melrose stands Abbotsford, on the banks of the Tweed, of world-wide renown, and dear to the memory of every individual who speaks the English language as the re- sidence of Sir Walter Scott. Abbotsford is now the property of Mr. Hope Scott, who married Sir Walter's granddaughter. The armory is hung with inte- resting relics and curiosities, comprising nearly every kind of known weapon ; in the dining room are many handsome por- traits and pictures, — Cromwell, Charles II., the head of Mary Queen of Scots on a charger, &c. The library contains a choice collection of 20,000 volumes, and a case containing the last clothes Sir Walter wore — white hat, plaid pantaloons, striped vest, shoes, and gaiters. The study remains nearly as the poet left it. The drawing-room is a spacious apartment, furnished with dark antique furniture. The person who shows the apart- ments will expect Is. 6d. from each separate visitor, or 2s. 6d. from a party. The rooms are not shown during the months of December and January. Leaving the abbey, and driv- ing 4 miles by way of Newtown, St. Boswell's, and the Ferry, we reach Dryburgh, one of the most picturesque ruins in Scot- land. It was founded during the reign of David I. Its last abbot was James Stuart, one of the Damley family, who was buried under the altar. Sir Walter Scott was buried here at his particular request ; his tomb — which is the most beautiful part of the abbey — is in St. Mary's aisle. His wife's tomb is on his left; his eldest son, Colonel Sir Walter Scott's, on his right ; while at his feet lie the remains of Mr. Lockhart, his son-in-law, friend, and bio- grapher. The nave of the church, which was 190 feet long, must, when entire, have been extremely beautiful. In one of the cells a hole has been cut in the stone. This hole was of old a means of punishment; into it offenders' hands were put, and then wedged in with a wooden mallet. The mansion house of Dryburgh is close to the abbey. The charge for hiring a one- horse carriage is 6s. The charge for showing the abbey is Is. for a party of three, and 4d. for each person beyond three. Route 20. EDINBURGH TO BERWICK- ON-TWEED. STARTING from the Waverley station, we £§©))£ see Holyrood on the right, and reach Porto - bello, a beautiful bath- ing place. Here there is a branch line of rail to Musselburgh, having a long range of sands called Links, where races are run, Route 20.— EDINBURGH TO BERWICK-ON-TWEEB. 113 and various sports conducted. This is another very fashionable bathing-place. The Covenanters assembled here in 1638 to meet the king's representative ; and Cromwell, before the victory of Dunbar, encamped here. Near Musselburgh is the residence of Sir Archibald Hope, Pinkie House. The next place we reach is — Inveresk. — The battle-field of Pinkie is near here, where the English defeated the Scots 1547. Carberry Hill is next passed, where Queen Mary surrendered herself to the rebels (1567). Proceeding we reach Priests- town, or Prestonpans, a name derived from the pans in which of old salt was manuf actured. The population is 1,577. It is a tele- graph station. It was here Sir John Cope— the Johnny Cope of song — was defeated by the Pretender in 1745. The railway station is on the Edinbiu-gh and Berwick line of the North British Bailway (South-coast line). We now reach — Longniddry, where we see to the right Seaton Ho\ise, and on the left, near Firth of Forth, the seat of the Earl of "Wemyss, Gosford House. We next come to Drem, five miles from which, on the North Berwick bine, are situated the picturesque ruins of Tantallon Castle, the ancient home of the Douglas family. Passing by East Linton we reach Dunbar, a seaport, market, and post town. The harbour is one of great safety for shipping, but not very accessible. Its manufactures are sail-cloth and cordage; it contains also distilleries, breweries, and iron- foundries, and the herring fisheries form a large item in the local industries. The population is 3,311. At the entrance to the harbour, projecting out into the sea, stands Dunbar Castle, where Edward II., after the battle of Bannockburn, took refuge, and afterwards fled by sea to Berwick. Agnes, Countess of Dunbar, de- fended Dunbar Castle for nearly five months against the Duke of Salisbury. David II. erected it into a royal borough, and in 1650 Cromwell here defeated the Scotch Royalists. We shall next come to Cockburn's Path, where there is an ancient castle, considered to be the Ravens- wood of " The Bride of Lam- mermoor." Passing by Grant's House, Preston Junction, and Aytoun, a post town, in which are supposed ancient camps, 16 miles N.E. from Greenlaw, we now reach Lamberton, and thence reach — Berwick- on -Tweed. — The history of Berwick reaches to a very remote period. In 880 it was in possession of the Danes, from whom it was wrested by the Scots. In 1099, Edgar, King of Scotland, granted it to Carilepho, Bishop of Durham, but afterwards resumed the grant, the successor of Carilepho having made a plundering incur- sion into his kingdom. David I., the brother of Edgar, estab- lished a tribunal called " the Court of the Four Burghs," which had the power to determine all appeals from other burghs, and was composed of commis- sioners from Berwick, Roxburgh , Edinburgh, and Stirling, and the king's chamberlain. Berwick was one of the four fortified towns delivered up to the Eng- lish in 1174, as the ransom of William the Lion, and afterwards 114 s 20.— EDINBURGH TO BEEWICK-OX-TTTEEB. restored by Richard I. In the reign of King John it was plundered and bnmt by the English, and in 1296 was be- sieged by Edward L, who, after a brave resistance by the gar- rison, took the place by storm ; the same year he convened the estates of Scotland in the Castle of Berwick, when they submit- ted to his pretended claim of sovereignty. After ihe defeat of the English at Stifling in 1297, the town was taken by Wallace ; but the castle held out until it was relieved by Edward. In 1318 Berwick surrendered to Bobert Bruce, and in the year following it wag assaulted by the English both by sea and land, but was so ably defended by Walter, the High Steward, that they were forced to raise the siege, after sustaining great loss. in 1333 Berwick was again besieged by Edward III., who was forced "by the gallant defence made by the garrison to convert the siege into a blockade. Re- duced to the utmost extremity, the garrison obtained a truce by agreeing to surrender the place at the expiry of twenty days, provided the succours expected from the Regent Douglas did not arrive within that period ; Douglas attempted to raise the siege, but was defeated, July 19, 1333, at Halidon Hill, two miles west from Berwick, upon which the towm and castle sur- rendered. In 1355 Berwick was taken by assault by the Earl of Angus and March, but was soon after retaken by the English. During the truce, w r hich was afterwards concluded between the two king- doms, the Castle of Berwick was surprised and taken by forty lawless Scotsmen, who main- tained it for eight days against an army commanded by tbe Earl of Northumberland. In 1461, Berwick was ceded to the Scots by Henry VI. ; but in 1482 it was restored to the English. Berwick — usually called Ber- wick-on-Tweed — is in Northum- berland, England, at a distance of 47 miles S.E. of Edinburgh. It is connected with its suburbs, Tweedmouth and Spittal, by a bridge over the Tweed which has 15 arches. The new r ceme- tery ^as opened in 1857. The long pier, which stretches so far away into the sea, was begun in 1811. Here is the terminus of the North-Eastern, Berwick and Kelso, and North British Rail- ways. It is 365-i- miles from London by the Midland line, and 57 i from Edinburgh. It is a telegraph station. GLASGOW TO OBAN. N.B. — The usual route from Glasgow- to Oban is by steamer to .Ardrishaig, then by the Crirfan Canal to Crinan, and from Crinan to Oban by steamer. The steamer leaves Glasgow at seven in the morning. In our description of this tour Ave omitted this important and favourite route. ENGLAND. " Say what we will, an American, particularly a Netv Englander, can never approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of kindred. Its history, for two centuries, was our history. Its literature, laws, and language, — Shakespeare, Spenser, Bacon, Milton, — were a glorious inheritance ivhich we share in common. Our very life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon vigour that is spreading our country from. Atlantic to Pacific, and leading on a new era in the world's development. Mrs. Beecher Stowe. ENGLAND. ROUTES. Route Page 1. Carlisle to Liver- pool 126 2. Liverpool to Man- chester 129 3. Liverpool to Lon- don 131 4. London to Oxford, and Woodstock 186 5. London to Cam- bridge and Ely 187 6. Southampton to London 187 7. London to Stratford- on-Avon, &c. ... 190 8. London to the Isle of Wight 196 9. London to York ... 203 10. York to New- castle-on-Tyne 207 11. Newcastle, to Scar- borough 208 12. Newcastle to Ber- wick - on - Tweed 209 13. London to Carlisle and Glasgow ... 210 14. London to Bristol ... 211 15. Bristol and the Wye to Gloucester... 213 16. Gloucester to Tewkesbury, &c. 216 .Route Pag© 17. London to Salisbury, Exeter, &c. ... 216 18. Truro to Falmouth and Penzance ... 220 19. London to Leicester, Derby, Leeds and Bradford 222 20. Leeds to Harrow- gate and Kkares- borough 226 21. Derby to Matlock, Bowsley (for Chatsworth) and Buxton 227 22. The Lake District 228 23. London to Harwich (Route to Rotter- dam) 232 24. London to Ramsgate, Margate, and Dover 233 25. London to St. Leo- nards and Hast- ings 235 26. London to Brighton and Newhaven . 236 27. London to the Chan- nel Islands ... 237 28. Liverpool to Ches- ter 238 INTRODUCTION. ISTORICAL SUMMARY. HEN the mariners of Tyre first visited the shores of Britain they took back with them strange weird tales of its wonders and bor«- rors. It was a region of blinding fogs and thick mist, covered w T ith the intense darkness of impene- trable forests, and guarded by the dreadful surges of an always stormy sea. Its inhabitants were giants and enchanters, devils and monsters, bred of the storms, and mysterious wild beasts, whose bowlings were dreadful to listen to. About fifty years before the Christian era the country was in- vaded by the Romans under Caesar, and finally conquered. For four centuries it existed as a Roman HISTORICAL SUMMARY. 117 colony, being at first, and for a long time, a very troublesome one, by no means easy to retain ; but during tbe latter part of tbe Eoman occupation peaceable enough. Then, the Romans were called home to meet the foes of their own country, taking with them all those sturdy Britons who had been trained to bear arms in the Eoman legions, for the need of Rome was desperate. Britain, the last of the Roman conquests in Western Europe, was the first they abandoned. Being harassed by the Picts and Scots, and unable to get help from Rome, the Britons called in the Saxons, who, defeating the foes of tbe Britons, next drove the ancient inhabitants them- selves into the woods, mountains, and morasses, the great bulk of them taking refuge in that part of the country now called "Wales, which they succeeded in holding. The Saxons formed seven king- doms, called the Heptarchy, each with its own king, till, in 827, Egbert, conquering the other kings, united the whole of their country with his own under the name of England, a name which he gave with the consent of all the chief nobles and people at a general council held at Winches- ter in 829. The country had, however, been previously known as the lands of the Angles, but the name was then for the first time for- mally recognised. The Angles were a Saxon tribe, deriving its name from a village near Sles- wick, called Anglen or Angli. They joined the Saxon pirates, and founded the first kingdom of the Heptarchy in Britain, calling it East Anglia. The conversion of the English Saxons to Chris- tianity was the first stage of then- advance in civilization. The rule of the priest opposed that of the warrior. Literature and art arose, and under the rule of the wise, great, and good king Alfred, the country assumed a condition of prosperity and peace, in happy contrast with the long years of desperate warfare waged with savage hordes of pagan pirates or sea kings, who came sailing from the northern shores to pillage and destroy wherever they could effect a landing. Large numbers of them settled ultimately in the country. Some of these fierce Scandinavian pirates also settled in a fertile province of France, where they founded a mighty state, became Christians, and grew civilized and refined, abandoning their own language, and adopting that of their neighbours. These were the Normans, who, having for years been intimately associated with England, at length, under one of their poweriul dukes — William the Bastard — on the 14th of October, in the year 1066, defeated the Saxon king of Eng- land — Harold, and conquered the entire country. About four years after, the Norman rule, under the feudal system of go- vernment, was firmly established. Henry I. was the first king who attempted to reconcile the Saxons to their conquerors by restoring the best of those good old Saxon laws which continue to form the basis of Magna Oharta. The Normans invaded Ireland, and received the homage of Scot- land. In 1204 Normandy was lost to England by the tyrannical and cruel King John. The great troubles which arose from the conflicting powers of the throne 118 HISTORICAL SUMMARY. and the nobles resulted in the gradual creation of a third great power — that of the Middle Classes, due to the signing of Magna Charta by John, at Famnymede, near Windsor, in the year 1215, and on the 15th of June. It was many times violated, and by force recon- firmed during the reign of Henry III., and was finally established by his brave, wise son Edward I. In the fourteenth century the two races, Saxon and Norman, by a natural process of amalgama- tion, had become one ; their languages, laws, and customs were all combined. Danes, Saxons, Noimans, and Britons became extinct in the English- man, whose warlike bravery and fine physical and moral qualities made him famous throughout Europe. Great wars broke out between England and France, and at one time the former's con- quests made the latter for a time a mere province of England. Tremendous victories, gained against the most extraoidinary odds, fed the national vanity, and increased tbe love of con- quest, for tbe sake of war. An English king was crowned at Paris, a French king was kept prisoner in London, and, as Macaulay says, " the banner of St. George was carried far be- yond the Pyrennes and tbe Alps. On the south side of tbe Ebro the English won a great battle, which decided for a time the fate of Leon and Castile, and the English " Companies"' obtained a ten ible pre-eminence among the bands of warriors who let out their weapon for hire to the princes and commonwealths of Italy." Nor were the arts of p'^ace neglected ; many of the noblest pieces of architecture in the land were then erected, and its literature had an auspicious dawning in the works of a Chaucer and a Wycliffe. The first regular parliament was that held in 1265. In 1283 Edward I. united "Wales to England. In 1381 a great insurrection broke out in Kent, headed by a priest named John Ball, and a bold tiler named Wat, when a pea- santry which had been degraded to the condition of the swine and oxen they tended, began in a rough, rude way, resolutely but not arrogantly, to assert their claim to a certain just right, ad- vancing also a few ridiculous claims, founded upon ignorance, to supposed rights. They gathered in vast numbers in Norfolk, Sussex, Suffolk, and Essex, and joining the Kentish men, marched to Blackheath, near London, sixty thousand strong. The re- volt was distinguished by great cruelty on the part of the insur- gents, and it was treacherously and cruelly extinguished. Ano- ther insurrection broke out in 1450, headed by a leader who assumed the name of Mortimer, better known as Jack Cade, who marched triumphantly, at the head of a large body of rebels, from Blackheath to London, where many excesses were com- mitted. This also was sup- pressed. In the same century broke out the great civil wars of the Roses, which plunged the whole country into a state of anarchy, confusion, and blood- shed, and were due to the rival claims to the throne advanced by the two royal houses of York and Lancaster, although the latter family had filled the throne for sixty years, with the HIS TORICAL S UMMAIi Y. 119 entire consent of the whole nation. In these horrible wars the great Earl of Warwick played a foremost part, receiving the suggestive name of "the king- maker," so great was his wealth and power, so ambitious and well supported were his preten- sions. '1 he death of the histori- cally and poetically aud popu- larly maligned although tyranni- cal Richard III., at the battle of Bos worth Field, resulted in the accession of the Lancastrian family to the throne, in the person of Henry YII. In 1486 Lambert Simnel, said to have been the sun of an Oxford tradesman, set up 'pretensions as a claimant for the crown, acting, it is supposed, on the instigation of Margaret, Duchess Dowager of Burgundy, a sister of Edward IV. of England, whose hatred of the House of Lancaster was a well-known fact. Lambert was w r ell received in Ireland by the then lord deputy, the Earl of Kil- dare, and he there raised a force of Irish, Burgundians, and Ger- mans, with which he landed in Lancashire, and marched iuto the heart of England. A single battle ended the attempt, and Simnel, being contemptuously pardoned, was first made a turn- spit in the royal kitchen, and afterwards, curiously enough, was promoted to the honourable post of falconer. In 1487 the iniquitous iStar Chamber was established, in gross violation of the great principle of Magna Char- ta and continued to exercise its illegal power until 1641, when it was abolished. A standing- army was first established in 1488, at a time when standing- armies had long existed on the Continent ; up to that time the use of arms was common to all. every man received his martial training, and being liable tu be called upon to fight his country's battles. This was an element of power placed in the royal hands which w r as most likely to be sooner or later abused, but had its check in the antagonistic power of the purse, which waa retained by the Government. Armies are of little use to those who lack the means of paying! In 1492, Henry sold the sovereignty of France, and in the same year another insurrec- tion broke out, headed by another claimant to the crown, in the person of Perkin Warbeck ; and the Irish, fanatical in their attachment to the House of York, again took up arms against the Crown. Perkin, attempting to land at Deal with a small force from Flanders, was defeated by the people of that port, and fled to Scotland, where he was favourably received. He in- vaded England at the head of a Scotch army, more intent upon plundering than fighting, and again failed. He also tried his fortune with a few followers once more in Corn wall, and there many took up arms for him. He marched to Wells, through Wilt- shire and Hampshire, entered Kent, halted at Blackheath, and on the 23rd of June, 1497, waa totally defeated. Still the strug- gle was continued with but small effect until 149S. Perkin having sought the sanctuary of the Abbey of Beaulieu, in Hamp- shire, was taken, and after enduring many indignities at the hands of the populace and the law, was at last committed to the Tower, and conspiring while there to escape with a son of the 120 HISTORICAL SUM MART. Duke of Clarence, murdered in the preceding reign, who was also a prisoner, he was executed, retaining to the last the love of his wife, an unfortunate and beautiful lndy, near akin to the Scottish king, who was pityingly known as " the pale rose of England." The last male of the great Plantagenet race of English kings, the poor simple joyless youth with whom he had con- spired, was, in defiance of every feeling of right and justice, also executed, a victim to the selfish interests of a base and unscrupu- lous tyrant. Henry VIII. , op- pressing bis people too heavily with taxes, by which he claimed one-sixth of every man's goods, yet another insurrection broke out, so seriously threatening to his throne, that he was glad and discreet enough to recall his ordinances, and publicly and solemnly apologize for having infracted the laws. In his reign the Pope's authority was abolished in England, monasteries sup- pressed, the Bible printed in Eng- lish, and the Reformation pro- moted. In 1542 the title of King of Ireland was confirmed to the English sovereigns. In 1552 the Book of Common Prayer was es- tahlished. In 1558, Calais, held by the English, was retaken by the French. A terrible perse- cution of the Protestants was in- augurate d when Mary, wife of Philip of Spain, ascended the English throne. At her death, her sister Elizabeth having been crowned, re-established the Pro- testant faith. In 1568, Mary Uueeu of Scots was executed. 1587 was the year of the great Spanish Armada invasion. Eliza- beth cruelly persecuted the Puritans. In 1603 the kingdoms of England and Scotland were united under one monarch, James I., who was the first king of Great Britain. In his reign the unfortunate Puritans were perse- cuted with great severity and bitter injustice. The great gun- powder plot, still commemorated in England on every 5th of November by the carrying about and burning of effigies called Guy Fawkes, was discovered on November 5th, 1605. In 1641, Charles I. occupying the throne, the great contest for supremacy between the king and Govern- ment arose, which terminated in a fearful civil war, in which the Puritans displayed their might, ultimately resulting in the execu- tion of Charles, and the appoint- ment of Oliver Cromwell as Lord Protector of England. On the 29th of May, 1660, the monarchy was re-established in the person of Charles II., in whose reign omirredthe great fire of London. Popish plots arose ; the Habeas Corpus Act for protecting Eng- lish subjects against imprison- ment on improperly supported charges was established (1679), and the Rye House plot was de- tected. The great rebellion, headed by :the Duke of Mon- mouth, ended at the battle of Sedgmoor in 1685. In 1689, James II., having set himself in opposition to the religious feeling of the country, and endeavoured to extend the royal power beyond its legal boundaries, was driven from his throne ; on which his daughter and her husband, William Henry, Prince of Orange and Nassau, was placed on the 13th of February, 1689. In 1692 the national debt com- menced its long career. In 1694 the Bank of England was estab- THE BRITISH CONSTITUTION. 121 lished. The great victory over the French and Bavarians at Blenheim, in Bavaria, was gained hy the English under the Duke of Marlborough, in 1704. In 1715, when the crown had been settled by Parliament on the German descendants of James I., known in history as the House of Hanover, the son of James II. headed a rebellion io Scotland, a thing he had before attempted in the reign of Anne, which was only quelled after some fierce fighting and much bloodshed. In the next reign, that of George II., after twelve years of peace, a war broke out between England and Spain, which involved the whole of Europe. At the battle of Dettingen, George headed his army, and waving his sword and crying exhultingly as he ad- vanced, " Now, boys ! " won a glorious victory. This was the last battle at which an English king fouyht in person. The peace of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748 brought few or no advantages to the countries whose lives and money had been lavished away in warfare, and it lasted but a short time, for France and England were soon once more fighting in North America ar.d East India. Washington took the field against the French Canadians, and their allies, the Indians, and at length Woolfe took Quebec, the Canadian capital, which he purchased with his life. Clive, fighting in India, took Calcutta. France seized Hanover, defeating the Duke of Cumberland. In the next reign, George the Third's, the independ- ence of the United States was proclaimed. The French Revo- lution, and the rise of the first Napoleon, his attempts to con- quer and invade England, and their failure, will be within the memory of all, as will also the more prominent of the succeed- ing historical events. The British Constitution. — Britain is governed by a Monarch and two Houses of Parliament, and the Constitution, as we now know it, originated in the reign of Henry II. There are two Houses of Parliament, namely, the House of Lords and the House of Commons. The mem- bers of the House of Lords are either hereditary Peers of the Realm or are summoned to the Peerage by the King or Queen regnant. Their num- bers average about 460. The members of the House of Com- mons are elected by the people, whose political privileges have been greatly extended during the last few years. They generally number about 658. The Queen and various members of the Royal Family receive fixed an- nual sums from Parliament, in lieu of the rentals of property, once exclusively belonging to the Crown, but now to the nation. The powers of Parliament are politically omnipotent within the United Kingdom and its colonies and dependencies. It can make new laws, and enlarge, alter, or repeal those existing. Its author- ity extends to all ecclesiastical, temporal, civil, or miUtary matters, and its powers to altering or changing its own constitution. It is the highest Court, over which no other has jurisdiction. The executive Government of Great Britain and Ireland is vested nominally in the Crown ; but practically in the council of ministers, commonly called the 122 GEOGRAPHY. Cabinet. The Cabinet exists only so long as it can command the confidence of Parliament, particu- larly the House of Commons ; and as its acts are liable to be questioned in Parliament, and to require prompt explanation, it is essential that the heads of the chief departments of the State should have seats in either the Upper orthe Lower House, where they become identified with the general policy and acts of the Government. Hence the resigna- tion of a ministry has been held to include all their adherents filling political offices, and also the great officers of the Court, and those officers of the Eoyal Household who have seats in either House of Parliament. The Cabinet is composed of the more eminent portion of the adminis- tration, but it does not constitute more than a fourth part of those whom ' a change of ministry de- prives of office, the person in- cluded in that council being rarely less than ten or more than fifteen. The Cabinet being more immediately responsible for the conduct of public affairs, their deliberations are always con- sidered confidential, and kept secret even from their colleagues who are less exalted in office. The member of the Cabinet who fills the situation of the First Lord of the Treasury, and com- bined with it sometimes that of Chancellor of the Exchequer, is the chief of the Ministry, and therefore of the Cabinet ; he is usually styled the Premier or Prime Minister, but more pro- perly designated as " the head of Her Majesty's government." It is at his immediate recommenda- tion that his colleagues are ap- pointed ; and he dispenses, with hardly an exception, the patron- age of the Crown. Every Cab- inet includes the following high officers : The First Lord of the Treasury, the Lord Chancellor, the Lord President of the Council, The Lord Privy Seal, the Chan- cellor of the Exchequer, and the Secretaries of State. Several other ministerial functionaries, how- ever, have seats in* the Cabinet ; never less than three, and rarely as many as seven or eight of this latter class are called to that station : Their offices are as fol- lows : Commissioner of Works, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lan- caster, First Lord of the Admi- ralty, President of the Board of Trade, Master of the Mint, Judge Advocate- General, Postmaster- General, Chief Secretary for Ireland, President of Poor Law Board, and Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench. Geographical. — En gland, the southern and most considerable division of Great Britain, is on the north bounded by Scot- land, on the south, by the En- glish Channel, east by the Ger- man Ocean, and west by the Atlantic Ocean and the Irish Sea (St. George's Channel). It extends 425 miles from Ber- wick to the Land's End, Corn- wall, and varies in breadth from 62 to 360 miles, comprising an area of 58,320 square miles. Eastward are the Humber, the Wash, and the estuary of the Thames ; westward the Bristol Channel, Swansea and Car- marthen bays, Milford Bay, Cardigan Bay, and St. George's Channel, with the estuaries of the Dee, Mersey, Morecombe Bay, and the Solway Firth; southward are Southampton Water, Torbay , Plymouth Sound, POPULATION. 123 Falmouth Harbour, and Mount's Bay. England is divided into 40 Counties viz., Bedford, Berks, Bucks, Cambridge, Chester, Corn- wall, Cumberland, Derby, Devon, Dorset, Durham, Essex, Glouces- ter, Hants, Hereford, Hertford, Huntingdon, Kent, Lancaster, Leicester, Lincoln, Middlesex, Monmouth, Norfolk, Northamp- ton, Northumberland, Notting- ham, Oxford, Rutland, Salop, Somerset, Stafford, Suffolk, Surrey, Sussex, Warwick, Westmoreland, Wilts, Worcester, and York. The last is divided into the North, East, and West Ridings. In England the tourist will find the greatest variety of delightful scenery, lofty mountains, craggy rocks, bleak moors, and wild heaths, gardens, fertile tracts of hill, meadow, valley and field, very little of the land being absolutely sterile, or incapable of cultiva- tion. The richest parts are per- haps the midland and southern. North it partakes, to a great degree, of the barrenness of the neighbouring portion of Scotland. The east coast is, in many parts, sandy and marshy. A ridge of rugged land dividing the two countries forms a natural division between the east and west sides of the kingdom. Cornwall is a rough, hilly tract : and some of the adjacent counties are of a similar character. The English mountains are divided into the northern, Welsh and the Devonshire. The prin- cipal rivers are the Thames, Sev- ern, Medway, Trent, Ouse, Tyne, Tees, Wear, Mersey, Dee, Avon, Eden, Derwent, Wye. In con- nection with many of these, is a system of canal navigation, by which traffic is carried on very extensively. The most remark- able lakes are Windermere, Ulls- water, Derwentwater, with many others, in Cumberland and West- moreland for the most part. The climate of England is healthy, but from its humid insular position it is peculiarly liable to frequent sudden changes as well as to great variations of dryness and moisture. Population. — From the last Report of the Census Commission- ers of Great Britain, it appears that much fuller information is now furnished than at any previous time, and it is mentioned by the Commissioners that although it has been contemplated before, this is the first time that a census has been taken of the British Empire. It is found that the population of the Empire in the census year was 234,762,593 ; they were living upon 7,769,449 square miles of territory, and the number of houses inhabited was 44,142,651. The numbers are not mere estimates, such as are often quoted, but absolute facts. The Commissiouers say: — "The houses are sometimes scattered wide over the land, but they are generally under the influence of the social instinct, grouped to- gether in villages, towns, or cities, with some political organisation, the number necessarily varying with the definition of town or city ; but, taking the words as they are generally understood in England, in the Colonies, and in India, the number of towns and cities in the Empire exceeds 2,200. Many of them are great cities, and the Metropolis of the Empire, within its natiu-al circular limits of a fifteen miles' radius, has 3,885,641 inhabitants. Under its political organisation, the numbers 124 MISCELLANEO US. and the forces of England have increased ; and the stability of the population is not only secured, hut its development is proceeding uninterruptedly. Besides in- creasing at home, it sends out every year swarms of emigrants, and as yet there is no sign of diminution in the flow of the stream." The enumerated popu- lation of the United Kingdom (excluding the army, navy, and merchant seamen abroad) on April 3rd, 1871, it appears, amounted to 31,629,299 souls. The popu- lation of India and Ceylon was 193,712,357, and 9,420,937 in- habited the other Colonies, Pos- sessions, and Dependencies. England numbered 21,495,131 ; Wales, 1,217,135 ; Scotland, 3,360,018; Ireland, 5,412,377; and Islands in the British Seas, 144,638. There were also 216,080 men belonging to the army, navy, marines, and mer- chant service abroad, who were natives of the United Kingdom. The present population of Eng- land and Wales is 23,648,699, five and a half millions more than double the population of these countries in 1801. Railway Carriages in Eng- land are composed of three classes, according to the amount of com- fort provided for passengers. Al- ways ask the guard if you will have to change carriages to reach your destination, and if so, where. When you intend to return by the same route secure a return- ticket ; on most lines of rail these are available from Saturday to Monday inclusive. The system of issuing tourist tickets, adopted by the English railway companies during the tourist season, greatly cheapens the cost of travelling. The rate of fares is a slight in- crease upon the following, viz. : 3rd class, Id. per mile ; 2nd class, l^d. per mile ; 1st class, 2d. per mile. Return tickets are granted by 1st and 2nd class, at about 1^ fares, for limited peiiods. Luggage. — First- class pas- sengers are allowed to carry 112 pounds, second-class 100 pounds, and all luggage over such weights are charged for at the rate of Hd. per pound. Be sure to see that your luggage is properly labelled and directed, and on arriving at the station place it in the charge of a porter, who will then be re- sponsible for its being put into the luggage van, or who, in the event of its being accidentally left behind, will consequently know who it belonged to. Time of Visiting England. As it may influence the tourist in arrangiug the time for visiting England, we append a list of the chief events of the best months for travelling through that country. May. — If the tourist specially desires to see the British Museum in London, he must remember that from the first of May it is closed for one week. If an ad- mirer of the fine arts, he will, however, desire to see the Exhi- bition of the Royal Academy, which opens on the first of that month, and closes in July. Dur- ing May great gatherings of the various religious societies take place in London, chiefly at Exeter Hall. Our botanical visitors must remember that the grand flower shows of the Royal Horticultural Society are held at their beautiful gardens in South Kensington, during this month, and that there are usually flower- shows during this month at the Crystal Palace. Musical tourists may be glad to visit London MISCELLANEO US. 125 during this month, it being that in which the concert season com- mences. These are most fre- quently held at the Hanover Square Rooms, the Queen's Con- cert Rooms, Hanover Square, St. James's Hall, and the Crystal Palace. Horse racing takes place duriug this month at Newmarket, Chester, Bath, and Wye. June. — Great cricket matches are often played during this month by the various clubs at Lord's Cricket Ground, St. John's Wood, and elsewhere. This is the month of horse races, the chief of which is the Derby, the great English Saturnalia, the Oaks, and Ascot, — the last being a favourite with royalty, — at Croydon, Windsor, and Hampton. A great show of horses opens at the Agricultural Hall, Islington, and several of the principal picture exhibitions in London open their galleries to the public. The Henley Regatta, and " Com- mencement Day," at Cambridge, are also amongst the attractions of the month. July. — Grand operatic concerts are usually held this month at the Floral Hall, Covent Garden, London. The great fete of the Dramatic College is held at the Crystal Palace, in which most of the chief theatrical celebrities take part. The National Rifle Association encamps on Wimble- don Common, where reviews and shooting takes place for prizes. On the last day of this month the Royal Academy closes . The Eton and Harrow schools play their famous cricket match at Lord's, and the Goodwood races are run. Horse races are run at New- market, Goodwood, and West Drayton. August. — Amongst the London attractions of this month are concerts at Covent Garden, the ceremony of prorogueing Parlia- ment (admission may be obtained on application to a peer), and the great base-ball match of the season at Lord's Cricket Ground. At Canterbury some great cricket matches are played, and at Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, the Royal Yacht Club Regatta may be wit- nessed. At Birmingham a great musical festival will be held, and in 1874 the British Association meets at Belfast. Horse races are held at Croydon, Brighton, Lewes, Egham, Oxford, and September. — This is the popular seaside visiting month, and London is comparatively abandoned. The great Sacred Music Festival of the Three Choirs is held this month at one of the Cathedral cities. On the 16th Doncaster Races are run ; on the 3rd, 4th and 5th, the Cattle Fair is held at Barnet ; and the annual gathering of the Social Science Association takes place. At Knowle, a very attractive portion of Warwickshire, the Agricultural Show of that county opens. Horse races are run at Sutton Park, at Rich- mond, Canter bury, Warwick, and Hendon. The Highland Games take place at Inverness in Sep- tember (see page 104), and are well worth seeing. Visiting. — The proper hours for visitors calling with letters of introduction at private houses are from two to four. The dinner- hour amongst the professional and wealthier classes range from five to eight p.m. In England it is not usual for gentlemen to hand ladies f i om table, at which they remain after the ladies have retired. 126 Route 1.- CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. England. Excursion Trains run from July to October to all the popular places of resort, at reduced fares, especially in August and Sep- tember. Tostal. — Newspapers sent abroad from England must be posted within seven days of pub- lication (see also page 140). Telegrams are sent to all parts of the United Kingdom at the rate of Is. for twenty words, and 3d. for every five words or less in addition, prepaid, names and addresses included. The sender may, if he pleases, pay the cost of a reply to his message. When the parties to whom the message is sent reside a mile beyond the telegraph office at the other end, a charge is made for porterage. Blank forms for telegrams are usually kept at the chief hotels. Telegrams will be re-directed from town to town on payment of an additional charge of one-half the ordinary tariff, fractions of 3d. being considered as 2d. (see also page 140). Eminent Preachers : — Rev. L. D. Bevan, Tottenham Court Boad Chapel; Rev. J. Cummings, D.D., Crown Court, Covent Gar- den ; Rev. Newman Hall, Surrey Chapel, Blackf riars Road; Canon Liddon, St. Paul's Cathedral ; Rev. Joseph Parker, D.D., City Temple, Holborn Viaduct ; Rev. C. H. Spurgeon, Metropolitan Tabernacle, near Elephant and Castle ; Dean Stanley, West- minster Abbey ; Monseigneur Capel, Kensington. Our first trip shall be from Carlisle to Liverpool. In all cases it is advisable to consult the local time tables, or Brad- shaw's Railway Guide. Route 1. FROM CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL BY PRESTON. TEAMBOATS run be- £$>. tween Carlisle and Liverpool, the Isle of ' J 2M Man, Dublin and Bel- 5 fast, but we will take the train. Leaving Carlisle we pass Penrith, an ancient mar- ket town, 17| miles onward, where are the ruins of a castle. On the left, about six miles on, and near Clifton Moor, we see Brougham Hall, the residence of the late Lord Brougham. In 1745 there was a skirmish here, between the Duke of Cumberland's forces and those of the Pretender. Passing several other stations we reach Kendal Junction, where a branch line runs to the beautiful lake country, which it is our intention to visit. From here the next place of importance is — Lancaster, which suffered much in the wars of the Roses. Upon the crown of the eminence occupied by the town stands the castle, an ancient edifice in an excellent state of preservation. Owing to the silting up of the River Lune, a dock has been con- structed, about five miles below the town, at Glasson, through which a considerable foreign and coasting trade is done. Dr. Whe- well and Professor Richard Owen, the great comparative anatomist, were born here. Richard Ark- wright, the famous barber, was also bom here in 1732, and com- menced here some of his great im- provements in the cotton manu- facture. Hotels: King' s Arms and Royal Oak. From here we reach — Preston, a town situated in a England. Route 1.— CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. 127 fertile country, and in the midst of good scenery, with a popula- tion of 82,985. It is one of the great seats of the cotton and Linen manufactures. Earl Tostig, the hrother of King Harold, held Preston hef ore the Conquest, and it was probably a Roman station before his day. The Scots under Robert Bruce partly destroyed it in 1323. The partisans of the Pretender occu- pied it in 1715, and again, when retreating, in 1745. During the civil war it declared in favour of the king, and was taken by Fair- fax. The hotels here are the Bull and the Victoria. Wigan is an ancient borough town, situated near the river Douglas, 15 miles S.E. from Preston, where cotton fabrics, hardware and tools are made, together with machinery ; but it is better known as the centre of the great coal-field of England. It has a population of between 37 and 38,000. The principal church of All Saints, which was built before the reign of Edward III., has undergone restoration. In the northern part of the town there is a pillar erected to the memory of Sir T. Tyldesley, who fell in the battle of Wigan Lane, August 25, 1651. Hotels : Cla- rence and Victoria. From Wigan, where the country looks very rugged, and where King Arthur fought many battles, we soon reach Newton Bridge, from whence the Liver- pool and Manchester Railway conducts us to — Liverpool, which is situated on the north-east side, near the mouth of the River Mersey, of which Mrs. Stowe said, quoting Shakespeare, " the quality of not strained." The town extends three miles in length along the river's banks. It is the second city in England, and contains half a million of inhabitants. In 1207 its popu- lation was 840 and in 1800 it was 75,000. The hotel, the Adelphi, is said to be one of the best houses ; the Washington, the Adelphi, Queen's, and North Western are also good hotels. Liverpool is noted for its magni- ficent docks, constructed on a most stupendous scale. The dry-docks cover 200 acres, with 15 miles of quays. Nearly one- third of its trade is with the United States; 2,500,000 bales formerly arrived here annually. The principal buildings are the Assize Courts, Custom-house, St. George's Hall, Exchange and Town-hall, which contains statues of Roscoe and Canning by Chantrey, and a number of portraits. A free library and museum is here in William Brown Street, the gift of Sir William Brown. It is open every week-day except Saturday. In the square at the Exchange is Westmacott's monument of Nel- son in bronze, representing the dying hero receiving a naval crown of victory, and an enemy prostrate and crushed beneath his feet. The Collegiate and Me- chanics' Institutions are im- portant educational establish- ments. The Derby Museum and Philarmonic Hall are well worth a visit, as is also St. James's Cemetery behind St. James's walk. Castle Street is the site of the old castle of Liverpool. There are five theatres in Liver- pool, in addition to the amphi- theatre and assembly rooms. The Wellington rooms in Mount Pleasant are large and finely 128 Route 1.— CARLISLE TO LIVERPOOL. England. arranged. A drive through the Princess, Newsome, Stanley, and Sefton parks "will be very plea- sant. The American bankers here are Baring, Bros, and Co., India Buildings, Water Street; Brown, Shipley and Co., Chapel Street; David Stuart and Co., 13, Harrington Street. The iron pier and promenade will, of course, be visited. The engineer was Mr. Burch ; the builder, Mr. Dowson, and the cost £27,000. It was opened Sep- tember 7, 1867, and completed and handed over to the company it belongs to on April 9, 1868. Its length is 560 feet; height, from water to main deck, at the east end, 50 feet ; and at the west end, 20 feet. The saloon, ladies' retiring room, first and second class refreshment rooms, measure 180 feet in length. There are two wind screens, panelled with plate-glass, giving protection and freedom of sight to the promenaders. The North-Western hotel, Lime Street, is well worth a visit ; it is the " monster " hotel, built at the expense of the Lon- don and North- Western Railway Company. To get a good idea of its exterior, the \isitor should mount the steps of the colonnade of St. George's Hall, and then walk across to the doorway of Mr. Bennett's ironmongery show rooms, or near to the Washington Hotel. It was opened on the 1st March, 1871, and was more than two years in building. Close by St. Nicholas church is the tower, built on the site of the ancient tower of the Stanleys', lords of Liverpool. A fine exhibition of waxwork, known as Reynolds, 18 in Lime Street. The Hereu- laneuin Graving Dock is at the extreme south end of the town. A wet basin and hydraulic tower, and two dry basins, that will receive six ships at one time for repairs are here. The dis- tance from the south point of the Herculaneum Dock to the northern portion of the Canada Dock is just five miles, and the whole intermediate space is filled with docks and quays, in some cases two deep ; in one case three deep. In 1700 a pool, formed by the drainage of the high land (now occupied by Everton and Brown- low Hill), was opened under the name of " The Dock," now spoken of as " The Old Dock; " a ship named the " Marlborough" was the first to enter. This dock was closed and filled up 1826, and on the site thus gained the present custom-house was erected. Canning Dock dates from 1717 Salthouse „ „ 1734 George's ,, „ 1771 King's „ „ 1788 Queen's ,, ,, 1796 Brunswick ) Queen's Basin \ " 18ii Prince's Half -tide „ 1816 These are the oldest docks, the remainder having been erected subsequently, as necessity re- quired. At the present time they are extending northward, until their distance from the Exchange has become incon- venient. The Prince's Landing Stage, situated on the north side of the George's Basin, is for the use of Channel-going steamers. The George's Landing Stage, at the south side of George's Basin, is for the use of the ferry steamers. Adjacent to the above are the George's Pier Head fresh and salt water baths. From the north and south ends England. Route 2.— LIVERPOOL TO MANCHESTER. 129 of the George's Landing Stage, according to the ebb and flow of the tide, ply the steamboats in connection with the Chester and Great Western Railways, landing the passengers at a terminus coming down to the river on the Cheshire side. From Lime Street station travellers may take trains to almost any portion of the United Kingdom. London (201 miles), about 5\ hours. Fares, 1st class, 35s. ; 2nd class, 26s. ; 3rd class, 16s. 9d. Glasgow about 9£ hours : Edinburgh, 10 hours. Fares for the former, 1st class, 33s. ; 2nd class, 23s. 3d. ; 3rd class, 15s. ; for the latter, 1st class, 36s. ; 2nd class, 25s. ; 3rd class, 18s. 3d. Trains to Man- chester (32 miles), run very fre- quently. Fares, 1st class, 5s. 6d.; 2nd class, 4s. 6d. ; 3rd class, 2s. 7£d. ; return, 1st class, 9s. 3d.; 2nd class, 6s. 9d. ; time, 1 to 2 hours. At the Exchange Rail- way station passengers may take tickets for Lancashire, Yorkshire, the North-Eastern Counties, Scot- land, and north of Ireland. Belfast and the North of Ire- land, via Fleetwood (sea passage 11 hours), is the most approved route ; the principal train being at 5.30 p.m. The Great Northern Railway has a terminus at the south end of the town, passengers proceed- ing thither by omnibus from the booking-office, James Street. Pas- sengers may book here for part of Yorkshire and the Eastern count ies . A large new railway station has been made for this company in Ranelagh Street, in the centre of the tow T n. Very little is known of the early history of Liverpool. A castle was built here soon after the Conquest, and the houses which clustered about it for pro- tection are supposed to have been the cradle of this mighty em- porium. Henry I. granted its first charter. In the sixteenth century it was "a paved town," the chaplery or hamlet of Walton parish, where, in consequence oi its convenient position, a good trade was beginning to be done with Ireland. In the reign of Elizabeth it had but 138 house- holders, and its commerce em- ployed but 12 barks, navi- gated by 75 men. When ship-money was levied in the reign of Charles I. Bristol was rated at £1,000, Liverpool at £25 ! It was besieged and suffered greatly in the great civil war which dethroned Charles I. The improvement of its position as a commercial city does not appear to date back beyond 1710. In 1765 Liverpool covered an area of 1,184,000 square yards. In 1790 it covered 4,000,000. These facts are sufficiently suggestive of the rapidity of this town's gigantic growth. From Liverpool some very pleasant excursions may be made to Leasowe and the Isle of Man. Route 2* LIVERPOOL TO MANCHESTER. U U- -d > H 6 M m ^ > > r m os *S «^ o" 9 tt 2s |¥s| jggfp.^^ bd GO >* W W O H W GO p- 1 I ■M^ &" &&£& 5ERI0R VIEW OF THE BRIGHTON AQUARIUM. }IOR VIEW OF THE FERNERY AND AQUARIUM. LONDON. 133 ward of the' Strand, and on the south bank of the river, were fields and open country. Jn the Strand were then the dwellings of the great nobility, the locali- ties of which are still preserved in the names of streets leading towards the river, such as Arundel and Surrey. The only one of these remaining is Nor- thumberland House, which is now being taken down. Until old Westminster Bridge was built, in 1739, London Bridge was the sole means of communi- cation between the inhabitants of the north and south banks of the Thames. Modern London has recently undergone great changes, and is still rapidly extending and improving. Its greatest cala- mity, the fire of 1666, in which 13,000 houses were consumed, is commemorated by the Monument on Fish Street Mill, near Lon- don Bridge. The grandeur of London has been of slow growth and by no means continuous. It commenced under the first Norman king of England, who strengthened and rebuilt the Tower. Westminster Hall was rebuilt by William Rufus. In the reign of Henry I. and Stephen seveial religious edifices arose; in that of James II. its most important manufac- tures had their origin, notably that of silk in Spitalfields. In the reigns of William and Mary, and Anne, its increase in size was very marked. In the reigns of George I. and II. foreign wars and domestic troubles kept it sta- tionary. In that of George III. its growth was prodigious, and its commerce and manufactures made great and rapid strides. George IV.' s reign was marked by the rise of squares after squares, and streets after streets of buildings, all much larger and finer than London had previously possessed, so that it was said of him, that which Augustus said of himself in connection with Rome, viz.: "He found it brick and would leave it marble." This, however, was exaggeration. The greatest pitch of grandeur in beautiful architectural additions and metro- politan improvements has, how- ever, been attained during the present reign, and these additions and improvements are now, as the tourist will perceive, making- gigantic strides, so that London will soon be not only the most wealthy, populous, and largest of the world's great cities, but also the most beautiful. Even now, if it were possible to put together all the fine buildings this city contains, they alone wotild pro- bably form a city three times as large as Paris, and quite as grand. It would not be possible, in a work like the present, to give a full description of the many objects of interest in London. Nor has it been deemed advisable to dictate to the reader the order in which objects should be visited, this being a matter which the locality of your hotel or lodgings, with other matters, will best decide. A separate guide-book, and that not a small one, will be required to exhaust all the sights worth seeing in England's mighty me- tropolis. We can but indicate the principal of these here. A very interesting work on Old London, full of the most interest- ing illustrations and exhaustive in the information it gives, writ- ten by Walter Thornbury, has recently been published by Messrs. Cassell,PetterandGalpin. The burning of the Royal E v- LONDON. 133 ward of the' Strand, and on the south bank of the river, were fields and open country. Jn the Strand were then the dwellings of the great nobility, the locali- ties of which are still preserved in the names of streets leading towards the river, such as Arundel and Surrey. The only one of these remaining is Nor- thumberland House, which is now being taken down. Until old Westminster Bridge was built, in 1739, London Bridge was the sole means of communi- cation between the inhabitants of the north and south banks of the Thames. Modern London has recently undergone great changes, and is still rapidly extending and improving. Its greatest cala- mity, the fire of 1666, in which 13,000 houses were consumed, is commemorated by the Monument on Fish Street Mill, near Lon- don Bridge. The grandeur of London has been of slow growth and by no means continuous. It commenced under the first Norman king of England, who strengthened and rebuilt the Tower. Westminster Hall was rebuilt by William Rufus. In the reign of Henry I. and Stephen seveial religious edifices arose; in that of James II. its most important manufac- tures had their origin, notably that of silk in Spitalfields. In the reigns of William and Mary, and Anne, its increase in size was very marked. In the reigns of George I. and II. foreign wars and domestic troubles kept it sta- tionary. In that of George III. its growth was prodigious, and its commerce and manufactures made great and rapid strides. George IV.' s reign was marked by the rise of squares after squares, and streets after streets of buildings, all much larger and finer than London had previous iy possessed, so that it was said of him, that which Augustus said of himself in connection with Rome, viz.: "He found it brick andwould leave it marble." This, however, was exaggeration. The greatest pitch of grandeur in beautiful architectural additions and metro- politan improvements has, how- ever, been attained during the present reign, and these additions and improvements are now, as the tourist will perceive, making- gigantic strides, so that London will soon be not only the most wealthy, populous, and largest of the world's great cities, but also the most beautiful. Even now, if it were possible to put together all the fine buildings this city contains, they alone would pro- bably form a city three times as large as Paris, and quite as grand. It would not be possible, in a work like the present, to give a full description of the many objects of interest in London. Nor has it been deemed advisable to dictate to the reader the order in which objects should be visited, this being a matter which the locality of your hotel or lodgings, with other matters, will best decide. A separate guide-book, and that not a small one, will be required to exhaust all the sights worth seeing in England's mighty me- tropolis. We can but indicate the principal of these here. A very interesting work on Old London, full of the most interest- ing illustrations and exhaustive in the information it gives, writ- ten by Walter Thornbury, has recently been published by Messrs. Cassell,PetterandGalpin. The burning of the Royal E c- 134 LONDON. a. 1838, and of St. Stephen's Chapel, the old House of Commons, in 1834, caused the erection of two of the finest "build- ings of which the metropolis can now boast. Early in the present century, the squares of which the British Museum may he considered the nucleus, were not in existence ; Eelgravia was undreamt of, and there are numherless persons in existence who can recollect snipes heing shot in the marshes which are now the sites of densely popu- lated districts. We may now hrieny direct attention to the more prominent — " things of fame That do renown this city ." Hotels. The Hotels patronized by Americans are — The * Lang ham, Portland Place ; The Charing Cross, at the Charing Cross Eailway Station ; The Grosvenor, at the Victoria Eailway Station ; The Westminster Pa- lace Hotel; The Palace Hotel, near Buckingham Palace ; Mor- ley's, Trafalgar Square ; Gol- den Cross, Charing Cross ; Craven, Craven Street, Charing Cross ; Exeter Hall Hotel, Strand. Royal Cambridge, George Street, Hanover Square ; Fentons, St. James's Street; St. James's, Pic- cadilly ; Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner. The City hotels are The Castle and Falcon, Aldersgate Street; Queen's, St. Martin' s-le- Grand; Cathedral, St. Paul's Churchyard; Radley' 's, 10, New Bridge Street. Boarding Houses. We specially recommend the following for location, comfort, &c. : — Craven House, Porchester Gate, Hyde Park, W. : Miss Tayler's, 51, Weymouth Street; Miss Herring, of New York and Paris, 13 and 15, New Cavendish Street, W. ; Family Boarding House, 56, Torrington Square, W.C. Craven House, Porchester Gate, Hyde Park, W., is an elegant private hotel; has an un- rivalled situation facing the park, easy access to all parts of the city, within two minutes walk of the Metropolitan Eailway. The pro- prietor, Mr. Nodskou, has numerous letters of recommen- dation from tbe best American and English families. Gas in all the rooms, and reasonable charges. Eeliable and Eecommendable Shops. The finest shops in the world will be found in Eegent, Oxford, and Bond streets. Strange as it may seem, London is a hetter and cheaper place to shop than Paris since the Franco- German War, and especially for gentlemen's clothing, hosiery, gloves, silks, hats, woollen cloth- ing, shoes, and articles of leather manufacture. The following recommendable houses are the first in their line, and keep such goods as are sought for by Americans. No second- class house will obtain mention in our text notices. We offer to the tradesman wishing to build up an American connection the best means of publicity. Tourists should commence shopping as soon after half -past nine a.m. as possible, remember- ing that the leading shops close on Saturday at one o'clock. Four thousand tailors, thirty- five hundred shoemakers, sixteen hundred linendrapers, and seven LONDON. 135 hundred hatters ply their voca- tion ; some few are pre-eminent in their speciality, and are termed first-class " shopkeepers or tradesmen." Many of this grade . have obtained the right " hy ap- pointment ' ' of calling themselves " royal tradesmen ; " few possess it who are not entitled to it by merit and upright dealing. In selecting and recommending the establishments named here great care has been exercised in giving only those possessing some peculiar excellence iii their speci- ality, and no name will be found in the list for which the editor and publishers cannot vouch, in reference to all those qualities most interesting to the p urchaser — respectability, honesty, and fair- ness of dealing both as to quality and price; no increase of prices to foreigners will be permitted. Dry goods, shaivls, silk dresses, %c., §c. : we strongly recommend Marshall and Snelgrove, 151 to 156, Oxford-street; Lewis and Allenby, 195, Regent-street, 61, Conduit-street; Hitchcock, Williams, and Co., opposite St. Paiu'sCathedral,Pstablished about half a century, and celebrated as an emporium for the sale of silks, costumes, mantles, dresses, gloves, and fancy goods— medals, Lon- don, Paris, Amsterdam, and Vienna ; A. Ahlborn, 74, Regent- street, and 7 and 9, Air-street; Howitt and Co., 226 to 230, High Holborn ; Debenham and Freebody, 27 to 31, "Wigmore- street; Swan and Edgar, Picca- dilly-circus ; Chas. Meeking and Co., Holborn; Shoolbred and Co., Tottenham Court-road. Marriage trousseaux, ladies' underclothing, §c. : Mrs. Adley Bourne, 37, Piccadilly. There are many excellent out- fitters, but with too many the charges are far beyond the reach of ordinary middle-class pockets. The house recommended most highly is that of Mrs. Adley Bourne, 37, Piccadilly, where all the articles mentioned in the out- fit lists may be obtained. The materials are of excellent quality, and the work admirable. The lace and embroidery trimming are really good. All pockets as well as tastes are hen- suited. The requisites for ordinary needle- work and dressmaking are also to be obtained here. This house is far more usef al to ladies than any known to the water (whose experience in such matters is not inconsiderable) , for it is not com- mon to combine thoroughly good material, good taste, and good work with reasonable and mode- rate prices. Mourning goods, made up dresses, and millinery goods : Jays, 243 to 251, Regent-street. Irish poplins and Balbriggan hosiery : Ingles and Tinckler r 147, Regent-street. Jewellery : Hancock and Co., Bond-street ; Garrard, Hay- market ; Streeter's, Barker's, and Benson's, Bond-street ; Howell and James, Regent-street (Water- loo-] dace). Silver-ware, plated goods, and jirst-class cutlery : Elkington's, 22, Regent-street ; Lambert, 10, 11, and 12, Coventry-street. Tailors,