I ^^• ^ O. ^ ^ ^ ^ .0^ ^ ^ ,K- "^^0^ ::^ Q .^ 1*0^ ^^ y t^ c^. -. _^ > (H Q. .. ^.^^ ^"^ •7 '' - ^' i~ - ^^ - -^ *- « / ^ >/ ^^ \ V .^ .>^ ,^- ^xs :^^ ^ o o ,^' *' :> <*' V^ . V<^0,^ ^ -^^'o"^ Q. " ^ .^^ > '^Ad< : 0^^- . -.^^-^ " " / ^/;i cv\.% ;:^. ^<^ ''' c?" ,p - ^ ^^^^ .^^ ^- .^^ V % -c / o V * ^ -^ti x^' ^' C\ 9:> ^^/ ^' %.Jy - 'ip^ '^-' 0^ ^ cc^^ Y ' ^Ad< fr^\ District of Maryland, s$. xm^mm^ BE IT REMEMBERED, That on this eighteenth m SEAL/:,! day of July, in the fifty-fourth year of the Indepen* mmmmmB^m dence of the United States of America, Samuel White, of said District, hath deposited in this office, the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as author, in the words fol- lowing, to wit: "History of the AmericaiuTroops, during the late war, under the command of Cols. Fenton and Campbell, giving an account of the crossing of the lake from Erie to Long Point; also, the crossing of Niagara, by the troops under Gens. Gaines, Brown. Scott and Porter. The taking of Fort Erie, the battle of Chip- pewa, the imprisonment of Col. Bull, Major Galloway and the Author, (then a Captain,) and their treatment, togethp-r with an historical account of the Canadas. By Samuel White of Adams County, Pennsylvania." In conformity to an Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, "An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by secur- ing the copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned," and also to the Act, entitled, "An Act supplementary to the Act, entitled. An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and pro- prietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of Designing, Engrav- ing, and Etching historical and other Prints." PHILIP MOORE, Clerk of the District of Maryland 1 1 V3# FB.EFAGE. In presenting the following pages to the pub- lic, the author begs leave to return his warmest thanks to those of his fellow-citizens who have so liberally come forward to aid him in his undertak- ing. A plain man himself, he has not attempted to embellish his narrative with high-flown lan- guage, nor to impose upon the credulous, a string of fictitious adventures, but has been content with offering them a plain statement of facts, and as such he hopes it will be acceptable to the Ameri- can reader. It may be necessary to observe that in speak- ing of Englishmen, as the author has been forced to do, rather harshly in many places throughout this volume, he does not mean to insinuate that all of that nation are such as he has described; he has ?iad the pleasure of knowing many, who were an honor to their country, and to whose kind- ness and gentlemanly conduct, he feels hap- py in having an opportunity to testify. The contrast, also, which will necessarily be drawn between the conduct of the contending par- ities, resulting so eminently in favor of our own countrymen, will not be without its effect; as it will prove to those who at some future day may step forward in defence of their liberties, how much more of real and nevrr fading glory is ac- quired, by the exercise of mercy and' benevolence to the fallen foe, than even by the greatest valor and most distinguished generalshipj^ unaccompa- rvied by these attributes. In the compilation of the work, which has been done chiefly from his notes taken at the time, he has been careful to avoid errors; some, neverthe- less, owing to the disadvantages under which they were taken, may have occurred, and for these, should it prove to be so, he would bespeak indul- gence. S3.333(D3S OF THE LATE WAR, JL O repel the inroads of the British on the nortiierit tVontier, during the year 1814, the governor of the state of Pennsylvania ordered out the mihtia to the number of one thousand. About one half of this re- quisition was composed of volunteers from Cumber- land county, of the eleventh division, and two companies belonging to the same division from Franklin county, and the residue was drawn from the counties of Adams and York. The detachment of the troops to which 1 belonged, rendezvoused at Gettysburg, on the 2l)th of February 1814, and departed from that place on their march to Erie, on the tenth day of March following. On the morning of the following day, major Galloway and myself returned to Gettysburg, to hold a court martial for the trial of deUnquents, and after several days of arduous exertion, completed our business by the assessment of fines to the amount of upwards of foriy-thousand dollars. Hence I returned home, news having reached me that my wife lay dangerously ill of a fever, and remained there for a short time, when up- on her being pronounced convalescent, I hastened ta join my companions in arras, and reached Erie, on the evening of the same day our troops arrived. We en- camped on the margin of the lake, near the fort and I about a mile above the town, where we remained with- out any occurrence of note talcing place until the four- teenth of May. About this time it was made known in camp that an expedition to Long Point was projected, and that volun- teers to the number of five hundred stepped forward to assist the regular forces amounting to about four hun- dred men. The expedition was commanded by Col. Campbell, and all preparations having been completed on the fifteenth, we commenced crossing the lake, and landed on the Canada shore, late on the evening of the sixteenth. A company of dragoons fired on the boats that left the vessel, previous to their reaching the shore, when they put spurs to their horses and imme- diately rode off. We halted in a piece of woods near the lake, exposed to the rain which poured upon us all that night and next day, having no shelter except the boughs of the trees, under which we rested. Early next morning, we crossed Buffaloe creek in a large canoe, which we were fortunate enough to find there; our troops were formed in single file, showing our whole force in front, with two small field pieces in the cerntre of the line, drawn by sailors and marines. In thaf order we marched for Dover, a very politic and ingenious mode of forming, and one well calculated to impress an enemy unacquainted with the number of our troops, with an idea of our having a very large army in the rear, this appearing only as tlie advance guard. A little way up the creek was situate a large store house, but it was completely emptied before we reached it, they having had information of our approach, some days before, as will be seen hereaf- ter. We continued our march without opposition, passing over a beautiful plain, covered with luxur ant fields of wheat. When we reached Dover, we found it deserted by all but a few women, who had white clothes hanging upon broomsticks suing for peace. The only hostile demonstration on our part was, the destruction of some mills employed in manufacturing flour for the army, together with some houses occupi- ed as stores, and those belonging to some officers, who, it had been ascertained, had been on the expedition of the burning of Buffaloe and Black Rock some time pre- vious. Every possible respect was paid to the wo- men and children, and the best part of the furniture in the houses which were destroyed, was even carried out by the troops previous to their being set on fire. From what information we could derive from the women, we were led to believe that they had plenty of time to have prepared for our reception, and might even, had they so chosen, prevented our landing, as they had news of our intended expedition ten days before. It appeared strange how such news should have reached them, as it was not currently known, even in our own camp, three days before we embarked, but the mystery was soon cleared up, when after we had been made prison- ers. Major Galloway and I recognized in Chippewa, in company with the Britiih officers, a gentleman whom we had formerly seen at Erie in company with our quartermaster; he irxjst have been a spy. We took one man prisoner, whom we carried with us in our re- treat. 1 sat with him until the last boat was ready to push off to the vessel, and then dismissed him, unhurt,, and went on board. Strange as it may appear, it is not the less true, that on the very day after the British came to Dover, they burnt all the houses we had left standing, and even hung the poor old fellow whom we had had in custody. On our return we had tempestuous weather, and were detained on the lake three days, making the con- tinuance of our expedition fWe days in all. Before we bad embarked on the expedition, my company had drawn rations for three days, every pound of which had been left on the shore in consequence of the bad- ness of its quality, so that the poor fellows had nothing but bread to eat for that time; on the fourth day I pre- vailed upon the master of the vessel to let me have a barrel of biscuit, and one of pork for my company, which having been hoisted on deck, and the heads tak- en out, it was really amusing to see how soon they were emptied. In the evening we completed our land- ing, and arrived in safety at our camp in Erie. Next day we learned that a general order had been given for our march to Buffaloe, and that preparations for that purpose had been commenced by Col. Fenton, when they were checked for some time by the presen- tation of a mutinous paper by some of the men select- ed for that purpose, which paper had been signed by half, if not more, of the privates in the regiment. This instrument set forth that they had determined not to march from camp, until they had received the amount of pay due them for their services, alleging as their apology, that many of them were much at a loss for shoes and other cloathinjr. In this situation, undecided as to what course we should pursue, we remained for seve- ral days, until at length some of the captains of com- panies, attached to the regiment, conceiving that some- thing more decisive ought to be attempted to compel the mutinous portion of the regiment to return to their duty, addressed a communication to the Colonel, set- ting forth that they held themselves and companies in readiness to march at a minute's warning. After this anew impulse was given to preparations, and the order of march was fixed for the day following. 9 But the spirit of mutiny was still alive, and secret resolutions were formed amongst the disaffected, to obey no orders until the terms for which they held out were complied with, and on tho following day when according to the orders, at the third roll of the drum the tents should have fallen, a number remained standing, and those who were wiUing to obey orders, had to be detached for the purpose of pulling them down, which however, they were permitted to do, unmolested. While the wagons were lading, I had occasion to proceed to the the centre of the regiment, having some business to transact with one of the field officers, and upon my return was waited on by Lieutenant Gardner, who informed me that during my absence a private from Capt. Roberts' company, had been amongst my men encouraging them to stand firm to their agreement, and oppose the march, and had moreover instructed them that the others had agreed to commence forming a line, which he urged them to imitate. This man was supposed to be their ringleader, and to have been appointed their commander. As the first step towards the suppression of this mutiny, I determined upon his arrest, hoping that prompt and decisive conduct in this instance would not be without its effect, in deterring the others from a continuance in the course which they adopted. Accordingly having ascertained from the Lieutenant thaw. and reached out his hand to Major Galloway, nskmg him for assistance. At this moment the fellow v/ho had fired came up, sunk his tomahawk in his head, scalped liim, and left his body where he fell; thus j)erished as gallant, and noble hearted a fellow, as (^ver drew tlie sword in defence of his country. I was then unable t« account for an act so< contrary to all laws of warfare, and expected every moment that we should i.ave shared the fate of our unfortunate friend. 19 1 was afterwards informed by a Canadian gentleman, with whom I had formed an acquaintance while a$ Ives' Creek, that the murder was committed in com- pliance with the order of Gen. Rial, who had given the Indians positive instructions not to spare any who wore the uniform of militia officers, he at the same time gave them a minute description of the dress of the militia and regular officers, the latter of whom, should any be captured, they were ordered to bring into camp m m safety. Now if Gen. Rial gave such orders, and that he did, I have good reason +0 believe, how very degrading to a civilized people is such conduct, how barbarous, worse, infinitely worse than the cruely of the untutored savage] Startled by the whoop, I had just looked over my shoulder, and was struck motion- less, petrified, by the sight; but my conductors did not allow me much time for contemplation, but hurried me forward at even a more rapid rate. That we were not murdered as we expected, was owing to our being dressed in the uniform of the regu- lar troops, with which we had provided ourselves be- fore our departure from Gettysburg — the unfortunate Colonel was dressed in the old uniform of the Penn- sylvania militia, and met his disastrous fate in conse- quence of a trifling inattention — so frail and slender are the threads upon which human life and human prosperity are dependant. Col. Bull was a man of so- ber and exemplary habits, and highly esteemed by the soldiery — he was* a pious man, and his mind had a strong religious cast. Whilst at Erie, the most part of his Sabbaths were spent in the hospitals, in reading, conversing upon, and explaining the scriptures to the sick and disabled — but to return to our narrative, the aavages who conducted me, were now hurrying roe for- ward at a trot. Several times during our flight, 20 Major Galloway asked them whether they intended to kill hirn and Captain White, their answer was, they would not, but it will readily be believed, that after the dreadful sight we had just witnessed, we did not place much confidence in their assertions. Having cleared the woods, we now reached a green field, in running through which, the Indian who held me by the arm, and I, both trying for the furrow, jostled each other, and he fell, but still holding his grip, was instantly on his feet again. At that moment the hope of liberty flashed strongly over my mind, and had he been the only Indian with me, I would most certainly have dispatched him, or at least made the aUempt; but a moment's reflection served to convince me that any effort of that kind would be attended only with in- stant death, and under these considerations of the case, 1 concluded that my safest plan was to desist from so hazardous an exploit. Coming out of the grain field, near Chippewa Creek, we were in sight of the bridge, over which the last of the British army then in view, had just crossed, the American cannon were playing briskly on the rear; the Indians who led me, for we had entirely outrun those who conducted Galloway, became alarmed, dreading that the whole army wowld have passed, and the bridge be destroy- ed, before they should be able to reach it, and ac- cordingly turned and ran up the creek for some dis- tance, the Indians who left Galloway, now halloed to ihem, when they wheeled, and came in view of the rear guard of the British army, at the moment they were on the point of crossing the bridge. I was dreadfully fa- tigued, and to hurry me on, a fellow was placed behind me, who every minute or so, fixed his hands upon my shou^(iers, pushing me forward with a violence il.at well nigh threw me on my face. Faint and ex- 21 hausted, I still hurried forward, exerting all my nerve, fearing that if I failed or fell, the tomahawk, the sound of which still ran in my ears, would soon give me my quietus; I had hopes too, that the moment of my de- Uverance from these wretches was not far distant, as I fully expected to be taken out of their hands as soon as we should have reached the British army. In this manner we gained the bridge, just as the last of the rear guard had got on it, the American round shot still rolling after us; one of them fell within a yard of me as I pressed forward, making the clay fly all over us and then bounded into the creek; having completed our crossing, the bridge was cut down. What was my astonishment and indignation, when having come in company with those from whom I ex- pected relief, to find them even worse than the savages, and that instead of respiting us, they encouraged them to run us still further, crying out who have you got there, a damned yankee? — Yes — well damn him, run him well, he's not half run yet; although I then thought it impossible for me to proceed twenty rods further without dropping down dead. Thus situated, my mouth stretched wide open panting for breath, I was compelled to run between one and two miles further^ to the Indian encampment, still shoved forward as be- fore, whenever 1 slackened my pace; my persecutors encouraged and cheered on by the brutal and unfeel- ing soldiery, who seemed to look upon the aff'air as mere amusement. We were sent to the rear of the camp, and here, for the iirst time, I was permitted to sit down; in fact I wa? so weakened by previous fatigue, as to be unable to stand without support. Having recruited as much breath as enabled me to speak, I asked for a drink of water; they not understanding the language, I made a 22 sign for what 1 wanted, when I was led between two ta a pond, where I was permitted to drink — those only who have felt the same pressing necessity, can form any idea of the luxury of that draught. They then led me back, and I again resumed my seat on the ground. A few minutes afterwards I was surrounded by thirty or forty of these savages, all armed, they brought down their guns at an order and commenced a talk — here I sat for some time perfectly silent, but at length looking up at the fellow who had had me in custody, 1 asked him if they were going to kill me] He snatched up his rifle and raising it in both hands brought it down with vio- lence — he checked the fall, however, before it reached my head, and set it down as before, and casting at me a scowl of rage and hatred, resumed his place in the circle, from which the momentary act alluded to, had re- moved him. It may be well presumed that I had no very great anxiety to ask more questions. Two or three Canadian officers now came up, one of whom appeared perfectly versed in the language; af- ter some conversation between him and the Indians, they opened the ring and admitted him to me; he asked a number of questions, where I was fromi whether I was an officer or private? and whether I knew if there were any other officers made prisoners, and if so wheth- er I would not like to be with them? I informed him that Major Galloway was a prisoner, in the British camp, and that I should be much pleased to have his company — he commenced another talk with the Indians, and in a few minutes they began to disperse; after the crowd had pretty well cleared away, two of them came to me and taking me by the arms, one at each side, walked me back to the British camp, where we found Major Galloway still sitting on the ground, with his In- dian guard beside him. We proceeded together and 5^ were m a few minutes brought into the presence ©f General Rial, who immediately commenced interro- gating us, asking a number of questions, the truth of which I was determined he should not know from me. One of his questions as to what number of troops wc had, was addressed to Major Galloway, who seeming to hesitate, I answered for him, saying that we had something like five thousand; he replied that is not true sir, you know it is not, you have more than double that number. Had I then been acquainted with my privi- leges as a prisoner of war, I should not have made him an answer, as it was I excused myself, by telling him that I had computed them at that number from having seen them on parade, and had never heard from any official source, what was the actual number of men in service. He then enquired our grade, and whether we were in the regular service, or in the militia, upon our replying that we belonged to the Pennsylvania volunteers — he exclaimed what business had you to cross the frontier? We crossed, sir, in obedience to orders. Who could give such orders, sir, I thought no militiaman or volunteer could be ordered out of the United Statesi They can, sir, in case of insurrec- tion or invasion. Weil, sir, have you an insurrection among] No, tiiank heaven, and 1 hope we never shall, but, sir, we have invasion. How is that, sir? where? I replied, have you not Fort Niagara in your posses- sion? Then, sir, said he, why did you not go there? 1 answered, we were not ordered there. When I com- plained that we had been badly treated, having had our clothes stripped off us, that we had been robbed of money to the amount of about one thousand dollars, and that all we requested was to have our clothes re- turned as we were not accustomed to going naked, he gave us to understand that all the Indians got was legi- 24 timate spoil an<^ could not be returned — he then called two sergeants, and gave one of them orders to take that fellow, meaning me, and keep him safe 'till to-morrow morning, uhen 1 shall demand him at your hand— to the other he gave similar directions concerning Gallo- way, and turning upon his heel with a smile, joined | his officers who were seated outside of the door on benches, round a table covered with glasses. I forgot to state, that when I had informed him of the murder of Col. Bull, and that he had been scalped by the In- dians, his reply was — I do not beheve he has been scalp- ed, assigning at the same time as his reason for not so believing, that at that time they gave nothing for scalps. We were now carried off by the sergeants and sepa- rated — we were compelled to be behind the breast- works, on the bare ground, without tent or covering of any kind. I suffered severely from the cold, in conse- quence of having been overheated during the day, and then stripped of my cloathing. In the night I took a chill, and shook as if I had had the ague; I am confi- dent I should have perished but for the humanity of the sergeant, who had charge of me, in lending me his old watch coat, and a handkerchief to tie round my head; he also aave me a dram from his canteen — he, poor fellow, had been a prisoner amongst the Ameri- cans, and candidly acknowledged, that he had been well treated. In the morning he applied for rations: for Galloway and myself, and returned without having been able 1o obtain any — this was continued for three days in succession, during which time we sustained life merely through the charity of our friendly guard. On the first morning after the battle, having heard that a flag of truce was about to be sent to the Ameri- can camp, asking the privilege of burying their dead, i enquired whether a letter would be carried for me, 25 and was told it would, but that it must be sent open. —Being kindly furnished by the sergeant with pen and paper, I wrote a note merely stating that we were prisoners, requesting that our clothes, and if possible, a little money might be sent to us, as we were suffering severely from want of them. Fearful that the letter might not be sent, if it contained any thing offensive, T forbore to mention either the death of Col Bull, or our own treatment. On the return of the flag, I enquired if my letter had been delivered, and what answer; the letter had been delivered but they had no answer whatever. I was also informed, that to their request to be allowed to bury the dead, Gen. Brown replied that he was able to bury all the men he could kill. On the afternoon of the third day I saw one of the British light horse coming down the Chippewa at full speed; he kept his horse under whip and spur, until he arrived at the officers quarters, and in a few mi- nutes the camp was all bustle. The artillery horses were speedily driven under the whip up the Chip- pewa at a round pace; the baggage wagons were load- mg in all quarters, and in a few minutes the artillery opened a brisk fire; they had not fired many rounds be- fore J heard our long eighteens speaking in return. I felt rejoiced at the sound, believing that they must be beaten should a general engagement ensue, and that in the interim I might have a fair chance of escape. However during the cannonade the British army was formed in line and led into the field. Major Galloway, two of our volunteers, one Indian, myself and three or four Canadians who were in confinement, on suspicion of being friendly to the American cause, were led in- to the field under a strong guard and baited to await 'he fate of the day. The British artillery was soon si- 3 26 i enced; the captain as 1 afterwards understood had been killed, several others severely wounded, and one of their cannon dismounted, by having the carriage wheels blown away. They now retired nearly as fast as they advanced, and by this time the bagage wagons being loaded, were moved forward on the road to Fort George, and orders being giving to retreat, they set off at full trot, and some in a gallop, not delaying to pick up the camp kettles, which were dropping along the road, one here, one there, shaken from the wagons by the unusually rapid motion; the army moved off at quick step, and we were marched in the rear, still surround- ed by our guard. In this manner we proceeded until we came to Lundy's Lane, where they were met by a reinforcement from Queenstown heighths; they called a halt for a few minutes, during which the officers held a council, at the close of which the reinforcement was wheeled round and the retreat continued. When we reached Queenstown heighths we were halted before a house, at which, were a number of British officers; I was then brought in front, and viewed by some of them, who not being able to discover in me an old ac- quaintance, 1 was remanded to my former station. This examination was owing to information having been lodged by a fellow who had seen me the day after I had been made prisoner, that I had belonged to a certain British regiment, the name of which I do not remem- ber; that I had deserted and gone over to the United States, and had received my commission as a reward; he had sworn most blasphemously to the truth of his assertions, and concluded with "d n you I will have you hung;" I however, heard no more of the business; we were then marched forward on the road to Fort George, and after some time diverged to the right and proceeded nearly two miles to a large brick house, £7 where we were confined up stairs, having one guard at the room door, one at the head of the stairs and one at the outer door; part of the army also had encamped round the house, around them was stationed a camp guard, and outside of all was stationed a picket guard, all to take care of four American prisoners, and one Indian. The rest of the troops continued their march to Fort George. Had any of us made our escape at that time, it would have been highly injurious to them, as their forces were much weakened by previous loss- es. I know that they had two vessels so completely crammed with wounded men, that the other prisoners and myself were obliged to remain on deck the whole time of the passage from Fort George to York, where we were landed. The wounded officers were carried to town in blan- kets by four men one at each corner. And here I should be committing an act of ingratitude, did I not notice the kind manner in which we were treated by a gentleman, named Carr, a doctor, who overtook us on our march from Chippewa to Fort George, and a short distance from the former place. In conversation with me he stated that he had two sons, Captains in the British army, that one of them had been for some time a prisoner amongst the Amer- icans, and that he had been well treated, that the other had been taken at the battle of Chippewa, and that this was the first time he had had it in his power to evince his gratitude to any of the American Officers; he at the same time requested me to receive a twenty dollar bill, and divide it with my companion Major Gal- loway; in our circumstances it was a very acceptable present; we were still almost naked, and it was even- ing of the third day since the battle of Chippewa, and we had not as yet been supplied with rations, and were I obliged to march part of the afternoon nearly eleven | miles. He returned in a few mihutes afterwards with a five dollar bill, which he told us he bad collected | from some of the officers, and which he entreated me to divide among the other prisoners, or apply to their use by buying necessaries for them, which was accord- ingly done. We were several days at Fort George before the vessels were ready to sail for York. Late in the afternoon of the fourth day after we had beeii made prisoners, we were furnished with rations — we ate our beef as it came out of die pickle, as we could not think of waiting to cook it. While we remained there, an officer, who from his dress, appeared to belong to the dragoons, called to see the Major and myself, and in course of conversa- tion, asked us if we had any tea or sugar, or any li- quors; he continued to converse some time in a very agreeable manner, and then took his leave. A short time after he had gone, we had a visit from his servant, who brought us a paper of tea, some sugar, and a bot- tle of rum. All the time we drew rations, we were never allowed any liquor, and got none except the one bottle thus made a present of This treatment wa.s very different from what they, when made prisoners, by us, experienced — -if any part of the rations were scarce, our own men have stinted themselves in order that the prisoners might be supplied — this I know to be a fact, as the men belonging to my own company have gone without their liquor, that prisoners might be better accommodated. The evening after Galloway and I were made prisoners, and were almost perishing with cold and hunger, with the damp ground alone for our bed, and the canopy of heaven for our covering, the British officers made prisoners by our troops, were feasted with the best the camp could afford. The of- £9 ficers of my own company had killed a fat calf, in or- der to have something nice to give them for supper; as they were strangers, they wished to entertain them well, and would have been happy to have had all the oiEcers in the British army in the same situation, were it only to afford them a more ample field for the exer- cise of their generosity — but to return. We were marched into York, and halted for about half an hour at a tavern; here we applied to the landlady, to know if she could provide us change of linen; we had been then upwards of two weeks without change. She furnished us with two old shirts, more than half worn, for which, however, we had to pay her the moderate price of eight dollars. We were then asked if we would accept of paroles to go to Montreal, stating at the same time, that if we did, we should be furnished with money and horses, and if we did not, we would be sent on board a boat under guard. We concluded that it would be better for us to accept the terms offered, than to be dragged under guard through the country; however, we did not profit much by our compliance, for an hour had scarce- ly passed, after we had signed the parole, when we were ordered on board a Durham boat, to be sent un- der guard to Kingston. The British officers on board, when night came on, went ashore, and always took Galloway and myself with them, we lodged in a house convenient to the vessel; the other prisoners were suf- fered to remain on board, under guard. We now found that we had acted unadvisedly in accepting of paroles, as we found several friends here who were anxious to secrete us until the British were gone, and then they promised us a safe landing on the American shore. These friendly and tempting offers, our inconsiderateness in signing paroles, completely. 3* 30 prevented our accepting. Hence we were taken to the mouth of Ives' Creek, about eighteen miles below York, where we put up for the night. For several days past, I had been very unwell, owing to fatigue and exposure to the damp night air, having lain out a few nights before. 1 was taken with a violent pain in my head, which lasted for nearly two hours, 1 then ob- tained a little rest, lay down in the boat, and fell asleep when the crew went ashore; the officers also went off, leaving me under care of the guard. Having slept for some time, 1 awoke almost perished, and caUing to the guard, who had lit a fire on shore, they threw me a plank, by means of which, I got out dry. Before 1 had well warmed myself, I was taken intolerably sick, so much so indeed, that I could not stand up — they fur- nished me with a blanket, and I lay down on the beach, by the fire. When I woke in the morning, I was wet to the skin, the blanket having absorbed all the mois- ture from the sand. All that day I remained very ill, and upon reaching Mr. Ives', was compelled to go to bed. Next morning, notwithstanding my sickness, I was marched on board, but the wind being dead ahead, and blowing fresh, we could not sail, and consequently returned to the house. On the following day, my fe- ver had gained so much as to preclude all possibihty of my being removed, in fact, I was completely deranged. in this state they made me sign a parole, and an article binding myself to be accountable for John Hughes, should he make his escape — this man was a private in my own company, and had been made prisoner with me; they had determined to leave him to wait on me. So unconscious was I, at the time I signed the paper, that I knew nothing of the circumstance until after my recove- ry, when 1 was informed of the circumstance by Major Galloway. I remained in a very bad state for eight or 31 ten days, entirely given up by the medical gentleman, v^o had been appointed by government to attend me; he had informed the family that they must expect my death, and so firmly were they convinced of it, that they actually prepared a shroud for me, and Mr. Ives was looking out a snug corner in one of his fields, in. which to deposit me. Matters were in this train, when chance, or my bet- ter fortune brought an old yankee Doctor, as they call- ed him, and who was Mr. Ives' family physician, on a visit to the house — having seen me, and examined the medicine which was administering to me, he pronounc- ed my case as desperate, but at the same time expres- sed an opinion that something might yet be done for me — he accordingly commenced operations by having all the remaining medicines prescribed by my former physician, thrown out, and ordered me a treatment di- rectly the reverse; whether it was owing to this change of practice, or that the crisis of the disease had arrived, 1 am not sufficiently versed in medicine to pass opinion upon, but by twelve o'clock that night, I had changed so much for the better, as to have recovered my rea- son, and from that time forward my progress to perfect health was slow indeed, but sure. To the kindness of a gentleman, a doctor, who resided in the neighbour- hood, and who, during the first stages of my illness, had called once or twice to see me, and prescribed for me until such time as the government doctor commenced attendance, and to another, also a neighbour, and a namesake, a Mr. White, I take this opportunity of pay- iag the tribute of my best and warmest thanks, (the ppor man's only guerdon) for their liberahty in sup- plying me with cloathing, acts as grateful to me, as they were honorable to them. When I had recovered suf- ficiently well to see company, I had many risiters 32 from several miles distance, who always came after dark, and returned the same night; they were very anxious to know what was the intention of the United States in sending troops into Canada, and if they had determined upon taking it — if such, they said, was our intention, a powerful party in Canada might be raised to assist in the undertaking, providing the United States government would give assurance of the fact; but that so much had they been deceived by Gen. Hull, that nothing could or.would be done until such time as they had something satisfactory to rely upon. There were an immense number of men at that time disaffected with government, and had the United States deemed it expedient, or possessed the means of sending a large army into Canada, with the avowed purpose of freeing them from British dominion, numbers wauld have flocked to our standard, and they might with reason have trembled for their possessions— but to return. About this time, a great sensation was caused by the landing, during the night, of a boat, about two miles below, with three or four well armed men on board, who, stationing themselves on the mail road, shot the horse of the mail rider, and carried off the mail, no doubt with a view to obtain news of the army; they also made prisoners, a colonel of militia, and his son, who was also an officer in the militia. They took them with the mail rider, to the beach of the lake, where having stove a parcel of flour lying there, they threw it into the water — they then compelled the prisoners to gather wood, and cook their victuals for them; after which they were paroled, and the depredators went off unmolested. The next day I had a visit from Major Rogers, who seemed alarmed for my safety, and said that he had expected some of my friends had been to see me, and 33 had carried me off. I replied that I beheved there was not much danger of my escape, and that I should look well into whose hands I surrendered myself a prisoner again, as I had been one once too often al- ready. He said he would not trust me, and that as soon as my health was sufficiently established to allow of my removal, he would have me carried into the country, so as to be at a distance from the lake. A few days afterwards he called again, in company with a physician, who having examined me, declared me unfit for removal — the visit was continued from time to time, until the doctor at last pronounced me sufficiently strong for removal. During my residence with Mr. Ives, himself and family treated me with the greatest hospitality — had I been a relative, they could not nave exerted themselves more for my benefit — they have my highest esteem, and highly deserved recom- pense, which, had I the power^ I would gladly make I was now removed some miles back into the country, where I remained for ten or twelve days, and was then put on board a boat under the care of Lieutenant Nor- ris, a Canadian militia officer, who had orders from Major Rogers to take me to Kingston. Rogers was himself a militia officer, a devoted monarchist, and irn consequence of his zeal, was then, though stationed at home under full pay from his government, being kept there to have an eye to the inhabitants, and prevent them from making their escape to the United States. In many places along Lake Ontario, the inhabitants had deserted their homes and farms, and made their way good to the United States; several were compelled to fly to save their lives, as a single word said against the government, at that time, was sufficient to hang them. Those who were brought prisoners from Fort George to York, at the time we were brought on there, 34 on suspicion of being friendly to the American cause, were, as I afterwards understood, hanged, and some even without judge, jury, or the common formalities of a trial. Arrived at Kingston, I was handed over to the com- manding officer of that post, together with a letter of recommendation from Major Rogers. As soon as he i had read the letter, he ordered me into close confine- ' ment. This I expected, from having a knowledge of i the contents of the letter, given me by an officer under promise of secrecy; he at the same time promised me his influence in obtaining my release from confine- ment. The letter went on to state, "that I was not a commissioned officer of the United States, but had headed a party of depredators, who had come into Ca- nada for the sole purpose of plundering the inhabi- tants, and therefore to show me no favors." What could have been Major Rogers' inducement to pen such a notoriously manifest falsehood, I cannot divine, unless for the mere gratification of his vile disposition, and the rancorous hatred he bore to every one who professed republican principles; at home he bore the name of a tyrant, and was generally despised. I will relate a circumstance which will serve more fully to explain his character. — While recovering, and before I had been able to leave my room, he came to see me, and after strutting about for a considerable time, gave me to understand that the United States would shortly be compelled to surrender, as the British troops had taken their Capitol, VVashinglon. Mr. Ives fearing the effect such information might have upon me in my then reduced state, endeavored to change the conversation by telling the Major how very bad I had been; he interrupted him with the remark, — "Oh, that makes no difference, Washington being taken by 35 tiie British, the United States will of course become subject to them, and he, (meaning myself) may as well die now as at any other time, as that will be his fate at all events. I was irritated, and determined that he should not escape with impunity, I immediately re- plied that I did not believe one word of his informa- tion; he retorted somewhat angrily that it was not only taken, but burnt, and added, even were it not, what chance had we to preserve our country, having a sea coast of nearly three thousand miles, without any for- tification; the United States, I replied, have the power to fortify the whole line of coast; and to his enquiry, in what manner they could do it, I answered with men and bayonets. I had the pleasure to see him depart in no very enviable humor. Through the influence of Lieutenant Norris, I was liberated on the evening of the day I arrived at King- ston, in which place I remained but a few days, and then not having liberty to view the navy-yard, and in fact, not being suffered to leave the street in which I boarded, I had no opportunity of seeing any of the cu- riosities of the place. Between York and Kingston, although a distance of about two hundred miles, I do not recollect having seen one town, either situate on, i>v in view of the lake. I was now put on board a boat, and ordered to Mon- treal. After we had got some distance below Kingston, perhaps seventy or eighty miles, near the seven Islands, we met a fleet of boats, one hundred and ten in num- ber, two of which were gun boats, the rest were laden with military stores, cash to pay the troops, and the timbers of a vessel built in England, even to the last , pin, and ready to put together, to enable them to main- tain their superiority on lake Ontario. After the fleet had passed, T intimated to the officer who command- 36 cd the boat I was on board of, that I would be much gratified if he would run his boat on the other side of the St. Lawrence, which he could do with as much fa- cility as upon this — his reply was, I understand you, sir, but were the other side of the river equally near, you could not make your escape, as upon the first attempt, I would have you shot — I bantered him by teUing him, that if he would agree to run his boat as near the Amer- ican shore as he then was to the British, I would exe- cute a bond for five hundred dollars, payable in ten days, in any house in Boston, or New-York, that he might mention, and he might fire all the guns on board after me, and kill me if he could; but all would not do, neither bribe nor persuasion could induce him to alter his course. I well knew that the guns had lain in the boat until the powder was so damp that it would have been next to a miracle if one amongst them would go off. It was my fixed determination if I could have got near enough, to have made the shore, to have jumped overboard, and run all risks. Had I been then able to have effected my escape, I would have pressed a horse, and made the best of my way to Sackett's harbor, where I would have given information of the fleet of boats, as the whole of them might have been easily tak- en, and would have been a valuable prize. On proceeding a little further, we saw a drove of fat bullocks, consisting of one hundred head; which I learn- ed, had been smuggled across, from the state of New- York, at the Seven Islands. The drovers were met that day by the British commissary, who paid them twenty dollars per hundred, for the beef cattle, all in void. Upon their return down the river, the drovers put up for the night, at the same tavern where I lodged; and, sometime after supper, I walked into the room where they were seated; there were but two of them. 37 and had the gold spread on the table, in the act of di- viding it. I that night obtained information of their real names, for they had passed by fictitious ones; and, also learned the name of the town, in which one of them resided, and made a memorandum of the whole, with a view to their apprehension, if I could make my escape. I had also viewed them so particularly, that 1 would have been able to recognize them any where; but fortunately for them, 1 was detained in imprisonment until after the peace. The conditions of my parole having been broken by the enemy, by my imprisonment at Kingston, I, of course, no longer felt myself in honor bound to comply with them; and h'.id been for some time anxiously wait- ing an opportunity of effecting an escape. I had some thoughts of making the attempt that night, on board a large canoe, that lay a little way down the river from where we had landed, and preparatory to my going down to the boat, where my man Hughes, and another young man who belonged to the boat, and who had agreed to start with me if I got any chance of escape, were awaiting me. I took an opportunity to enter into conversation with one of the smugglers who was stand- ing by the door, and in the course of our talk enquired of him about the pass of the Seven Islands, and v/he- ther the Indians who inhabited them, were friendly or hostile; he gave me some little information and after a while turned into the house. I then went down to the boat, and had just communicated my views to my friends, when 1 was called to from the house by Lieutenant Norris; I immediately went up, after hav- ing told my men that 1 would be back as soon as I could get away, and that we should then put out — the night was very dark, and had we once got under weigh, it would have been a difficult matter to re-capture us, \ 4 3S Upon my reaching the house, imagine my disappoints metit when handed into a room by the Lieutenant, who locked tlie door as soon as wc had entered, tell- ing me that he would keep me company, and pointing to a table upon which lay his sword and pistols, gave nie to understand that he would kill me, if I made an attempt to escape; he afterwards informed me that one of the smugglers had told him to take care of me, as I would leave him to-night, and that I had been asking about the passes of the Seven Islands. He then en- treated me not to make any attempt to leave him, for if 1 made my escape it would ruin him, as Major Ro- gers had suspicions about his loyalty, and he believed that 1 was placed under his care, merely to try his fi- delity. He was a clever fellow, and he and his wife had treated me well, and 1 should have been sorry to have attempted any thing which would have involved him in difficulties. I therefore pledged my word that I would not attempt leaving him, and, for the pre- sent gave up my hopes of escape; he however remained with me until morning, when we re -embarked, and proceeded on our voyage. Nothing occurred worth notice, until we came to what was called the , down which, though a distance of nine miles, we pass- ed in the short space of fifteen minutes. I saw some Canadians drawing up a boat, which appeared to be a very difficult undertaking — they had a long rope at- tached to the boat, one end of which was tugged at by twenty or thirty men— hence we proceeded to La Chine, a distance ot nine miles from Montreal, where having landed. Lieutenant Norris conducted me to a tavern, and left me with instructions to remain there until his return. In the mean time I called for some- thing to drink, which 1 procured without difficulty. I tjien told the landlord that I would want something to 3^ eat also, but I could not procure a mouthful. Upon the return of the Lieutenant, I reported my bad suc- cess, when he applied with no better fortune. We then proceeded together to ail the public houses, and a good many of the private ones; nothing was to be had. It was then nearly dark and raining, and we had had nothing to eat since morning. He then instructed us to proceed on the road to Montreal, until we could procure something, and accordingly John Hughes, two others who belonged to the boat, and myself put forward on the road. After having travelled about, a mile, we came to a good looking stone house, and here I repeated my call for supper, and received for answer, as before, that I could not have any; they could not give us what they had not themselves. The rain still continued, and the darkness had considerably increased; however we dashed through the mud for something like another mile, when we reached ano- ther tavern; here we received the same answer as be- fore, and as far lodging, they could not well accom- modate us, but we might lie down on the bar-room floor, which was covered with mud; having no alternative we were obliged to accept the offer, and after awhile they procured us some apples and milk, for which they charged us a handsome price; for our lodgings, howe- ver, they charged us nothing. We set forward in the morning towards Montreal, and after travelling two or three miles, espied a snug little farm house at so^e dis- tance from the road; the prospect looked cheering, and we immediately struck off in its direction. The farm- er himself, who proved to be a countryman of our own, inet us at the door, invited us to walk in, and handed down a decanter of old whiskey, requesting us to help ourselves. When he heard how we had been treated the evening before, and that we had not breakfasted, 40 but would gladly do so with him, unless he sliould plead poverty as the rest had done; he immediately re- plied that he would have something prepared for us, and in a few minutes we sat down to as good a break- fast as any man could wish for, and with stomachs well prepared for wreaking ample satisfaction, to atone for previous abstemiousness. Having finished breakfast we called for the bill, but our hospitable entertainer absolutely refused to receive any recompense, saying that he should be visited with worse times thon the present, before he would receive payment for so tri- fling a service to a fellow countryman. Nothing deserving notice, came under my observa- tion, until we arrived at Montreal, where as we passed along the streets, the citizens crowded their doors and pavements, and pointing to me, cried out, "there goes an American officer, he's a d d pretty creature, is'nt he7" I had then been a prisoner nearly three months and was without hat, coat or vest. It was ex- ceedingly mortifying to me to be held up in my present situation as a specimen of American officers, after hav- ing been by themselves stripped almost to a state of nu- dity. I was exceedingly wrath, and had my power been then equal to my will, 1 would have taken ample ven- geance. From Kingston to Montreal, along the St. Lawrence, there are nine smart little villages, viz: Prcscott, Youngslown, Edwardsburg, Williamsburg, Osnaburg, Cromwell, Dulac, Cidris, Vaudril and La Chine. Some part of the country appeared to be fertile, and there Avere several handsome farm houses, whose exterior spoke loudly for the comfort of their inhabitants. Montreal is the capital of an island of the same name, formerly called Villa Marie; it is the second place in Canada for strengtli, buildings and extent, and besides 41 the advantages of a better climate, for delightfulness of situation, is much preferable to Quebec. It stands on the side of a hill sloping to the south, with many agree- able villas upon it, which, with the island of St. Helen: and the river, which is about two miles broad, forms a most charming landscape. The city is not very broad from north to south, but covers a great deal of ground . from east to west, and is nearly as populous as Quebec. The streets are regular, forming an oblong square, the houses well built, and the public edifices far ex- ceed those of Quebec in beauty and cornmodiousness; the residence of the knights hospitalers, is extremely magnificent; there are several gardens within the walls, particularly those of the Governor, the Sisters of the Congregation, the Nunnery Hospital, the Recollects, Jesuits Seminary, &c. there are also, many other gar- dens and plantations without the gates. The churches and religious houses are of the greatest neatness and simplicity. The city has seven gates, but its fortifica- tions are inconsiderable, being encompassed by a slight wall of masonry, sufficient only to prevent a surprise from the numerous tribes of Indians, with whom they are surrounded, and who used to resort in large bodies, to the annual fair, held here from June to the end of August. On the inside of the town, is a cavalier on an artificial eminence, with a parapet, and six or eight guns, called the citadel. The number of inhabitants, I was informed, amounted to about six thousand. The neighboring shores supply them with a vast variety of game in the diflTerent seasons, and the island abounds with soft springs, which form many pleasant rivulets. — • They drive a considerable trade in furs; and the place is well calculated for commerce, as vessels of two hun- dred tons burthen can come directly up to the city. It stands one hundred and twenty miles south of Que- 4* 42 bee, and one hundred and ten north of Albany. This island formerly belonged to the French, but was taken by generals Amheist and Murray, on the eighth of Sep- tember, one thousand seven hundred and sixty. By the capitulation, all the French forces were sent to old France, and thus it became subject to the crown of Great-Britain; it was afterwards confirmed to them by the peace of one thousand seven hundred and sixty- three. After I had been in Montreal a few days, I v>'as giv- en to understand, that a num^jer of American officers had been paroled home from this place, and made ap- plication to the provost major, for a parole to go home; he would apply to the governor, he said, and if I would call at his office in a day or two, he would inform me of the result. After repeated calls on my part, he en- quired upon what terms I expected to be paroled. I told him I would agree not to lift arms, until legally exchanged. He then asked me if I would agree not to lift arms during the war? I replied that it was not fair to ask me to agree to such terras, and that at all events, I could not, nor would not, accept of a parole, badly as I liked being a prisoner, upon any such terms. He then informed me that I would not be paroled on any other terms; and so finished the discussion. A short time afterwards, a chance of escape was of- fered me by a friend, who promised to procure me a pass, provided I would change my name, and enter with him as a boatman. When I reached the narrows, I could take a canoe and paddle across to the Ameri- can shore, as he v^'as going up the river with liquor to the British army. This I declined, not liking the idea of changing my name; and it was absolutely necessaary for any one who attempted to travel in that country then, to have a pass, as to be found Nvithout one, sub-. 43 jected the person to instant arrest, and of course i conld not apply for one in my own name, consequent- ly could not avail myself of tbe opportunity. While killing time one day in a tavern at Montreal, a deserter from the American army came in, who had a great deal to say about the Americans. To the ques- tion of why he deserted, he replied that it was entirely in consequence of the bad treatment he received from his officers. We had some warm words, and I caution- ed him to be careful, now that winter was coming on, in case he could not get work to support himself, which it was more than probable would prove the case, not to turn his hand to stealing, as a comrade of his had been hanged but a few days before, for an offence of the kind; and it was, I thought, a most excellent plan adopted by the British, to get rid of such rubbish, as no man can place confidence in. It may well be supposed that he did not wait to hear any more. About this time a man who resided a few miles from town came and told me that if I would give him one hundred dollars, he would deliver me safe in the Unit- ed States, in the course of one night. Soon after, a gentleman, a resident of Montreal, told me, that if I would disguise myself by putting on a good suit of clothes, he would give me a seat in his calash, procur iflshield, myself, and several others boarded, and spent the afternoon in jollity and mirth. "Hail Columbia," I suppose was never sung with more heart-felt gra6» tude, than we sang it that afternoon; joining hands, form- ing a circle and walking round, we sang with all our force, disregardful entirely of consequences; but we were permitted to enjoy ourselves without molestation, as there was not a British officer or soldier then resi» dent in the village. Captain Crowninshield had been detained in imprisonment for something Hke a year af- ter he had been legally exchanged; immediately after the news of peace had reached them, Captain Cushet, the provost Major, sent a line to him, with directions to have his baggage put on board of a certain vessel then lying in the harbor, bound for the United States, and then to repair to his office in Halifax; the Captain did so, and on appearing in the office, the Major asked him if he did not feel rejoiced at the prospect of return- ing to his family. Crowninshield replied that he did; but added at the same time, "without considering my- self at all indebted to you, Captain Cushet." Cushet answered, that thanks were not only due to himself but to several others, gentlemen resident in Halifax, who iiad interested themselves considerably, to procure his liberation — to this our friend replied, that these of his t'Viends in Halifax, who had interested them.selves for him, he did indeed feel deeply indebted, but to Cap- tain Cushet he again asserted he did not conceive him- self at all indebted, as he had it in his power to prove without leaving the city, in black and white, that it wa« through his means alone he had been so long illegally detained in captivity; and he had yet to learn that cru- elty and injustice had power to bind the object upon whom they Iiad been practised, to feelings of regard or 63 consideration for his oppressor. This charge was de~ nied most positively and as positively and firmly repeat- ed, when at length, Cushet completely losing all eoni- mand of his temper, the following dialogue ensued. 'You shall not go home even now, sir," "Thank you, sit." "Go on board and remove your baggage, and je- turn to your place of parole." "Thank yon, sir," "I will send you to Mellville prison, sir." "Thank you, sir." "Begone out of my office, sir." "Thank you, sir." Captain Crowninshield then left the office, and related the circumstance at dinner, when he v/as vvarin- iy greeted by all for his firmness, and they actually car- ried him on their shoulders round the room. He then called for wine, to treat his fellow ollicers of whom there were about a dozen, then in the house; we devoted our- s^elves to merriment and had a jovial time of it; severa'^ other paroled American officers gathered in, and before we had retired lo rest ourselves, we had consigned to rest upwards of forty bottles of good wine, thus cele- " brating our country's glory, and our enemies disgrace, under their very noses. The next morning the Cap- tain made it known that he expected a guard to be sent to conduct him to Melville prison; several of the officers, unknown to him, met together and formed a resolution to attempt his rescue, and if possible prevent his going to jail; he however came to the knowledge of the matter by some means, and begged of them to de- sist from their purpose, as it was impossible to prevent his going to jail in an enemy's country; that they would only risk their own lives, without doing him any service; 1 saw him plead with them, with tears in his eyes, so over- come w as he by his feelings, before he could persuade them to give up their project — he, however, at length succeeded; he was so universal a ftivorite amonast the officers, that I firmly believe, had they after reflection, 64 found the undertaking feasible, they would never IfSVe consented to abandon the enterprise. Captain C. was from Salem, in the state of Massachu- setts; he had formerly been the captain of a vessel, which occupation he had followed for nearly twenty years: and was well acquainted with the merchants of Halifax. For soaie time previous to the war, he had not gone to sea, and would not have again resumed the service, had he not had two vessels laden with goods, captured and run into British ports, where they were condemned un- der pretence of having smuggled goods aboard. One of the vessels thus captured had a cargo of West In- dia goods, worth ten thousand dollars. Having still something of his property left, he fitted up a small ves- sel with a swivel gun and a good crew, and went out privateering; he had married a young wife about a year before he went to sea. In his first trip he was fortun- ate, taking several British vessels; when they proved to be of small value, the valuable part of the cargo was taken out, and she was scuttled; her crew would then be paroled and put on shore — he made, however, two very valuable prizes, one of which sold for one hundred thousand dollars, which served in part to remunerate him for previous losses. Upon his second trip, having taken and scuttled two or three vessels, the crews of which not having an op- ix.»rtunity of being put ashore, were still on board, he w as on the look-out for an old West Indiaman, bound for Halifax, having a valuable cargo, and which was hourly expected, and when within a short distance of the Halifax coast, came in sight of an old seventy- foui; this he mistook for his expected prize, and accord- ingly made sale for her, and it being late in the even- ing, and a thick fog, he had got alongside before he cjis* covered his error. Those oa board the seventy-four. 65 with a view of correcting his mistake, shoved out their guns, and gave him a broadside; by dint of several times shifting his course, he however, made his escape, and ran on until he thought himself safe, when he lay too, fearful that if he proceeded he would get out of the track of the West Indiaman; unfortunately for him, Iwwever, his antagonist had shaped her course in the same manner, and was alongside before day-break of the following morning, when before he could get away, she poured into hiia a broadside, which shot off his main-m.ast, and otherwise so far disabled him as to pre- clude all possibiUty of escape — he consequently struck his flag, and was fired into even after that process. When taken, he had twice as many prisoners, as he had of his own crew — they were all taken to Halifax, where they were detained until after the peace. According to Captain Crowninshield's expectations, in one or two days after he had returned to his place of parole, Captain Cushet came over to pay us, what we called in derision, our starvation money, more pro perly, subsistence money, being twenty dollars per month, in Ueu of rations, which was nothing like suffi- cient to suppo rt us; he had a guard with him, and told Crowninshield that he must now set out for Mellville prison. In conversation, which they held about the matter, and in reply to the question of why he should be sent to prison, the captain was informed that it was -^ not for any thing he had said, but solely for the tone in which it had been spoken; he was then taken off, and carried to Melville, where they kept him for about ten. days., when he was set at liberty and sent home to Sa- lem. In Melville prison there were confined from twelve to fourteen hundred Americans, who were treat- ed with as much barbarity, as though the worst of con- victs, 8ome of them being half naked. John Hughes, 66 one of my men who was confined there, got an oppor- tunity of writing to me, stating how much he suffered from want of clothes and tobaccd* at the time I receiv- ed his letter, I had but two dollars and three shirts, which, however I divided with him, giving him one dol- lar, and one shirt and a great coat, which proved to him of considerable service. Melville prison is two hundred feet in length, and fifty broad; it is two stories high, the upper one being for officers, and for the infirmary and dispensary, while the lower part is divided into two prisons, one of which was occupied by French, and the other by Americans. The prison yard covers a space of ground of about one acre in extent, the whole island containing little more than five acres; it is connected on the south side with the main land, by a bridge. In a journal which has fallen into my hands, I find a very minute account, of the prison on Melville Island and the treatment o^ the unfortunate men confined there, which I copy in order to show my readers, that I am not the only one who speaks hastily of our English captives. With the language or sentiments of the writer I have nothing to do, and merely copy it as confirming my own state* ment, as to the hardships suffered by the inmates of the prison, and as giving a more minute account of its dis- cipline and regulations, than I was enabled to procure from enquiry. The writer of the journal referred to, went from the Port of Salem, as assistant surgeon, on board a privateer, in December of 1812 — the title page of the work is lost, and I am consequently unable to give his name. •*Asto the inside of the prison at Melville, if the A- merican reader expects to hear it represented as a place resembling the large prisons for criminals in the United States, such as those at Boston, New York, or Phila- 67 delphia, he will be sadly disappointed. Some of these prisons are as clean, and nearly as comfortable as some of the monasteries and convents on the continent of Europe. Our new prisons in the United States, reflect great honor on the nation, they speak loudly that \V6 are a considerate and humane people; whereas the pri- son at Halifax, erected solely for the safe keeping of prisoners of war, resembles a horse stable with stalls or stancheons for separating the cattle from each other. It is to a contrivance of this sort that they attach the cords that support those canvass b?gs or cradles, call- ed hammocks. Four tiers of these hanging nets were made to swing one above the other, between these stalls or stancheons. To those unused to such lofty sleeping births, they were rather unpleasant situa- tions for repose. But use makes every thing easy. The first time that I was shut up for the night in this prison, it distressed me too much to close my eyes. Its closeness and smell were, in a degree, disagreeable, but this was trifling to what I experienced afterwards in another place. The general hum and confused noise from almost every hammock, was at first very distress- ing. Some'would be lamenting their hard fate at being ^ut up like negro slaves in a guinea ship, or like fowls in a hen-coop, for no crime, but for fighting the bat- tles of their country. Some were cursing and execra- ting their oppressors; others late at night were relating their adventures to a new prisoner, others lamenting their aberrations from rectitude, and disobedience to parents, and head-strong wilfulness, that drove them to sea contrary to their parents' wish; while others of the younger class, were sobbing out their lamentations at tte thoughts of what their mothers and sisters suffered, after knowing of their imprisonment. Not unfrequent- ly the whole night was spent in that way, and when about 68 day-break, the weary prisoner fell into a dose, he was waked from his slumber by the grinding noise of the locks, and the unbarring of the doors, with the cry of "turn out— all out," when each man took down his hammock, and lashed it up and slung it on his back, and was ready to answer to tjie roll call of the turnkey. If any, through natural heaviness or indisposition, was dilatory, he was sure to feel the bayonet of tlie soldier, who appeared to us to have a natural antipathy to a sai- lor, and from what I observed, I believe that in general little or no love is lost between them. This prison is swept out twice a week by the prison- ers. The task is performed by the respective messes in turns. When the prison is washed, the prisoners are kept out until it is perfectly dry. This in the wet seasons, and the severity of winter is sometimes very distressing and dangerous to health; for there is no re- tiring place for shelter, it is like a stable where the cattle are either under cover or exposed to the weather, be it ever so inclement. When we arrived here in May 1813, there were about nme hundred prisoners, but many had died by the severity of the winter, and the quantity of fuel allowed by the British government was insufficient to convey warmth through the prison. The men were cruelly harassed by the custom of mustering and parading them in the severest cold, and even in snow storms. The agent, Miller, might have alleviated the sufferings of our people, had he been so disposed, without relax- ation of duty. But he as well as the turnkey, named Grant, seemed to take delight in tormenting the Ameri- cans. This man would often keep the prisoners out, for many hours, in the severest weather, when the mer- cury was ten and fifteen degrees below 0; under a pre- text that the prison had been washed, and was not suf- 69 fidently dry for their reception, wiien, in fact every drop of water used, was, in a moment, ice. People in the Southern states, and the inhabitants of England etnd Ireland, can form no adequate idea of the friglitfai climate of Nova Scotia. The description of the sufie?- ings of our poor fellows, the past winter, was enough to nmke one's heart ache, and to rouse our indignation against the agents in this business. Our people are sensible to kind treatment, and are ready to acknowledge huBaane and considerate oon-^ duct towards themselves, or towards their companions but they are resentful in proportion as they are grate- ful. They speak very general of the conduct of Mil- ler, the agent, and Grant, the turnkey, with disgust and resentment. A complaint was made to him of the bad- ness of the beef served out to the prisoners, upon which he collected them together, mounted the stair case* and began a most passionate harangue, declaring that the beef was good enough, and a d— d deal better tiian they had in their own country; and if they did not eat it, they should have none. He then went on as follows'r— Hundreds of you, d-— d scoundrels, have been to me begging and pleading, that I would interpose my infliv- ence that you might be the first to be exchanged, to re- turn home to your famiUes, who were starving in your absence, and now you have the impudence to tell m^ to my face, that the king's beef is not good enough for your dainty stomachs. Why some of that there beef is good enough for me to eat. You are a set of me^ii rascals, you beg of an enemy the favors which youp c«vn government won't grant you. You complain of ill treatment, when you never had better in your lives Had you been in a French prison and fed on horse beef, you would have some grounds df complaint, but here iabis Britannic majesty's royal prison, you havs ev- 70 cry-tiling that is right and proper for persons taken ^ fighting against his crown and dignity. — There is a surgeon here for you, if you are sick, and physic to take if you are sick, and a hospital to go to into the bargain, and if you die, there^are boards enough, (point- ing to a pile of lumber in the yard) for to make your coffins, and one hundred and fifty acres of land to bury yati in, and if you are not satisfied with all this, yoii may die and be d d! Having finished this eloqueiit harangue, orator Miller descended from his rqstrum, and strutted out of the prison yard, accompanied with hisses from some of the prisoners. On a re-examinalion, however, of the "king's beef, ' some pieces were found too much tainted for a dog tc^ eat, and the prisoners threw it over the pickets. After this the supply of wholesome meat was such as it ought be, full good enough for Mr. Miller himself to eat, and some oi the very best pieces good enough for Mr Grant, the turnkey. In all this business of provision for prisoners of war, one thing ought to be taken into consideration, which may be offered as an extenuation of crime alleged against the British agents for prisoners; and that is, that the American soldier and sailor live infinitely better in A- merica, than the same class of people do in Great Bri- tain and Ireland. Generally sp-eaking, an American eats three times the quantity of animal food that falls to the share of tlie same class of people in England,, Holland, Germany, Denmark or Sweden. — He sleeps more comfortably, and lives in greater plenty of fish, flesh, vegetables, and spirituous liquors: Add to tliis, Jiis freedom is in a manner unbounded. He speaks his mind to any man. If he thinks he is wronged, he seeks^ redress with confidence; if he is insulted he resents if; and if you should venture to strike bini, he never will 71 rest quiet under the dishonor; yet you seldom hear o( t|uarrels ending in murder; the dagger and pistol a»e weapons in a manner unknown; the fist a la mode de John Bull, is commonly the ultimatum of a Yankee's rage. We often hear the British if they are unsuccesful, lamenting the war between England and America; they call it an unhappy strife between brethren, and they attribute this "unnatural war" to a French influence, and their friends in P^w England, who are denomina- ted tories, use the same language; they say that all the odium of the war, ought to fall on our administration, and tlieir wicked seducers, the French; and yet you will fmd that both in England and at Halifax, the French meet with better treatment than their dear brothers the A- mericans. We found tliat there were about two hundred French prisoners in Nova Scotia. Some had been there ever since eighteen hundred and three; few of them were confined in prison. The chief of them lived in or near the tow^n of Halifax, working for the inhabitants, or teaching dancing or fencing, or their own language. Some were employed as butchers and cooks, others as nurses in the hospital, and they were every where fa- vored for their complaisance, obedience, and good hu- ifYor. They had the character of behaving better to- wards the British officers and inhabitants than the Americans, and I believe, with reason; for our men seem to take delight in plaguing, embarrassing and alarm- )ag those who were set over them. A Frenchman al- ways tried to please, while many Americans seemed to take an equal delight in letting their masters know, tiiat they longed to be at liberty to fight them again. 1 confess I do not wonder, that the submissive, smiling Frenchman made more friends .at Halifax, than the or- 72 dinary run of American seamen, who seemed too often to look and speak, as if they longed to try again the tug of war, with John Bull. The daily allowance of the British government to our prisoners, is one pound of bread, one pound of beef, and one gill of peas. Over and above this, we receiv- ed from the American agent, a sufficiency of cofifee, sugar, potatoes and tobacco. The first may be called the bare necessaries of life, but the latter contribute much to its comfortable enjoyment. Whether the British government ought not to have found the whole, I am not prepared to determine, but certainly before this addition from our own agent, our men complained bitterly. We were one day not a little shocked by the arrival of a number of American soldiers who were entrapped and taken uith Col. Boerstler, in Upper Canada. They exhi- bited a picture of misery, woe and despair. Their mise- rable condition called forth our sympathy and compas- sion, and I may add, excited our resentment against the authors of their distress. These unfortunate landsmen had never been used to rough it hke sailors, but had lived the easy life of farmers and mechanics. Some of them had never experienced the hardships of a sol- dier's life, but were raw, inexperienced militiamen. They were taken at some creek, between Fort George and Little York, by the British and their alHes, the In- dians, who stripped them of most of their cloathing, and then wore them down by long and harassing marches-, first to Montreal and then to Quebec, and soon after crowded them on board transports like negroes, in a guinea ship, when some suffered death, and others merely escaped it. It appears from their account, and from every other account, that the treatment of these poor fellows, at their capture and on their march, and 73 more especially on board the transports from Quebec to Halifax, was barbarous in the extreme, and highly disgraceful to the British name and nation. We have asserted uniformly that the prisoners who came from Quebec to Halifax, and Boston, down the St. Lawrence, were treated and provided for in a man- ner little above brutes. Colonel Scott, now Major Gen. Scott, came by that route from Quebec to Boston, and it is well known that he complained, that there was neither accommodations, provisions or any thing on board the ship, proper for a gentleman. He spoke of the whole treatment he received, with deep disgust and pointed resentment. If an officer of his rank and ac- comphshments had so much reason for complaint, we may easily conceive what the private soldier must en- dure. We paid every attention in our power to these poor fellows, whose emaciated appearance and dejection gave us reason to expect that an end would soon be put lo their sufferings by death. They, however, recruited fast, and we were soon convinced that they were redu- ced to the condition we saw them in, absolutely for want of food. The account which these soldiers gave of their hardships, was enough to fill with rage and re- sentment the heart of a saint. Four men were not al- lowed more provisions than what was needful for one. They assured us that if they had not secretly come at gome bags of ship bread, unknown to tlie officers of the transport, they must have perished for want of food. — We cannot pass over one anecdote; some fibh were caught by our own people on the passage, in common with the crew, but they were compelled to deliver them all to the captain of the ship, who withheld them from the American prisoners. Some of the prisoners had a little money, and the captain of the transport was mean 7 74 enough to take a dollar for a single cod-fish, from mea in their situation. This fact has appeared in several Boston papers, with the names of the persons concern- ed, and has never been contradicted or doubted. We give this as the common report, and as the Boston news-papers circulated freely through Nova Scotia and Caoada, we infer that had the story been void of truth, it would have been contradicted. About the month of August, Halifax was alarmed, by a report that the prisoners in Mellville jail, had at- tempted to break prison with a view of seizing upon tlie town — the report was in some measure correct, as an attempt of the kind had been made, but failed, in consequence of the imprudence of some of the prison- ers, who having mined under the wall, crept out in day light, to see how it looked from the outside, and being discovered by the guard were fired upon. Whether ihere was just cause for the extraordinary excitement created by this affair, or any real necessity for the ve- ry formidable precautions which were taken, remains a matter of speculation; be that as it 'Jiay, however, or- ders were issued that all loyal citizens, should hold themselves in readiness at a moment's warning, to re- pel the attack of about one thousand unarmed prison- ers; a company of artillery with two pieces of cannon were placed upon an eminence south of the prison, cannons were also placed in different directions so na to play upon the prison, and a line of sentries were placed at regular distances, all the way into the town of Halifax, the people had been actually made to be- lieve that they had sworn to murder every man, woman and child in the town. The weather was at this time very severe: J hav« seen many of the American prisoners, with their ears frostbitten, and many of the neiTroes, who were carried 75 away from their masters, in the United States, actual- ly perished with tlie cold. The Indians were wrappoa up in blankets, feet and legs, and also appeared pretty well preserved with smoke. They came into the town of Halifax about ten or eleven o'clock every day, appa- rently half frozen, and 'would mope about the streets from store to store, in search of empty whiskey barrels, when they found one they would take it to the pump, pour water in it, and after rincing it well, would drink the water; they were the most wretched and pitiable objects I ever saw. We got through the winter as well as we could, and near the last of February, our ears were blessed with the news of peace, and we immediately commenced making preparations for our return home. According to the articles of the treaty of peace, every officer was bound to pay his debts before he could return home, and Colonel Cushet made a loan, for all the volunteer officers who were there. The only place at which he could raise money, was from a merchant tailor, who bound him to take as much cloathing as would amount to the sum wanted in cash, at his own price, paying the whole to a certain house in Boston in ten days, with ten per cent for the use of it. Having procured cash, we settled our affairs, laid in sea stores, and went aboard — here again the weather seemed to have con- spired against us, and we were, in consequence of con- trary winds, detained ten days on board; at the expira- tion of which time we landed at Salem, where we were ^warmly received by an old friend, Capt. Crowninshield, who had landed a few days previous. He was accom- panied by several gentlemen of distinction, who were awaiting our landing on the shore. We proceeded with them to a tavern, where we remained until even- ing, and then, with a number of the citizens, repaired 76 by invitation to the house of Captain Crowninshieldf where we wer« entertained in the most hospitable manner. Next morning we took the stage for Boston, and ar- rived there in time for dinner. We then called upon the paymaster, to have our accounts settled; he told us he had no money, but he would give as due bills, and we could sell them to the brokers, which he did, mforming us at the same time, where we could get them cashed; we were compelled, however, to allow a dis- count of twenty per cent; as we had to pay our bor- rowed mone}% we had no other resource — some were forced to allow twenty-five per cent. I took some Phi- ladelphia paper, and when I went to pay my stage fai*e, they deducted five per cent more — thus, calcula- ting the ten per cent vv^hich we paid at Halifax for bor- rowed money, twenty per cent discount for cash at Boston, and five per cent deducted by the stage pro- prietor, made in all, an allowance of thirty five pei cent, which we were compelled to pay. Having at length settled our affairs, we proceeded homeward, passing through New- York and Philadelphia, in each- of which places we remained a couple of days. We were compelled to hire horses at Harrisburg, as the stage went no further, and when we arrived at Carlisle, we were detained by the inhabitants, to partake of a dinner prepared for us at the Carlisle tavern — the next day I arrived home in Adams County. DESCRIPTION or ^Tli^T *->ft -k:^^^ The province of Upper Canada extends along the northern bank of the river St. Lawrence, the lakes Ontario and Erie, and the water communication from iake Superior about seven hundred miles, and is five hundred miles wide, according to an imaginary line that divides it from New Britain on the north. The hne that divides it from the lower province, begins in lat 45, at lake Francisco, and takes a due noith course to the Outtaways river, then up that river a north west direction to lake Tomiscauting, then due north to the Une of New Britain. The upper province is divided from the United States by a line commencing some distance above the St. Regis village of Indians, situate about seventy-five miles below Ogdensburgh, and running through the centre of the St. Lawrence, to where lake Ontario be- gins, thence through the centre of it to the outlet of lake Erie, then through the centre of the outlet to the beginning of the said lake, then through the middle of it to the head, and so onward, passing through lakes St. Clair, Huron, Superior, and lake of the Woods; it. then takes a south-westerly course to Red Lake, near the head waters of the river Mississippi. 7* 78 In the upper province there are no mountains, and but few hills of any considerable height: the country, however, is not of a clear level, but affords sufficient eminences to render it agreeable to the eye, and con- venient for the building of water-works, &c. The sudden rise of ground dividing the waters of lake l^rie from lake Ontario, towers in some places five hundred feet high, and almost perpendicular; in general, hov*ever, the height does not exceed two hun- dred feet, and the ascent is very gradual, with natural oflsets about five hundred yards wide, upon which are situate plantations, and from which, especially those on the top, are most extensive and beautiful prospects; the eye rests with admiration on the fertile plains be- low, and lake Ontario stands entirely exposed to ob- servation. Upon the top of this eminence, the coun- try is level, fertile and extremely beautiful; nearly all the waters on the south side of the slope run into lake Erie, though there are but few that find their way through, affording excellent situations for the erection of mills or other buildings requiring water power. The soil of the province of Upper Canada is exceed- ingly good in every part, yet it is much the best in the upper part, west south west of the head of the bay Quan- tie, around the north shore, and head of lake Ontario, and the west side of Grand River, in the London Dis- irict. The lower part of the province is sand and clay mixed; from the head of the bay Quantie,. to the head of lake Ontario, it is altogether a black light, rich mould in most places, seven inches deep, after which it is-.brown clay. On the Grand River, or Indian Land, and in the London District, the soil is sand, brown loam and clay. The timber of the lower part of the province is chiefly hemlock, birch and beech; that of the middle part, beech ^ 79 sugar maple and white pine. On the west of the Grand River, the chief of the timber is white pine, elm, bass black walnut, and the different oaks, chesnut and the like — Indeed in this part of the province, may be found nearly all the varieties of the United Stales; also, some of the trees of the Balm of Gilead; one of a majestic appearance stands upon the main road, about twenty- five miles west of Niagara. In tlie lower part of the province, there is but little of any kind of wild fruit, but in the middle part there are several sorts, particu- larly whortleberries and rice. In the western part there is a great variety of wild fruits, viz: cranberries, rasp- berries, grapes, blackberries, and wild potatoes; also, strawberries and plumbs of an excellent quality, and a great quantity of the very best crab apples, which are preserved by the inhabitants with the molasses of pumpkins. Considerable quantities of wheat are raised in the lower part of the province; and in the middle part, wheat, rye, oats, peas, flax, hemp and corn. In the western part, the product is wheat, which thrives much better here than in any other part; rye, oats and corn». also come to great perfection, as likewise buck-wheat. All kinds of roots and vegetables flourish well in any part of the province, but especially in the west. All kinds of birds found in the United States are plenty; here is also found a kind of bird, having the same motion and voice as the parakite, so plenty in the state of Kentucky — it differs, however, in colour, being grey, and is called by some, the frolic. Wild ducke are very plenty in all the lakes, as are also geese in all the lakes north of the settlements. There are seven lakes of considerable size, in the inhabited part of the province, and many parts of the wilderness. Lake Ontario is about two hundred and so tliirty miles long, from north-east to south-west, and eighty wide about the middle, being of an oval form; it is exceeding deep and in most places appears to be without bottom, as there has been great length of cord let down without finding any. The water is very clear and cool at all times of the year, having the ap- pearance of a large spring. This lake never freezes, except near the shore, where it is shallow, nor does it freeze even there, except in very severe weather, and then only for a very few weeks. The little lake, or Burhngton bay, lies to the south- west of lake Ontario, and is divided from it by a cause- way five miles long, and in many places three hundred yards wide; the surface of this causeway is completely level, of a light sand, matted over with grass, and beautifully decorated with groves of timber, chiefly oak, of a middle size, but of an endless variety of cu- rious forms; some six feet in circumference at the butt, yet not more than twelve feet high, with extensive iimbs, crooking and twining in all directions. A great number of these trees are entirely encircled with gr^pe vines, and produce great quantities of grapes, of an excellent quality; this lake is about twenty miles in circumference, and generally shallow. Near the head of bay Quantie, on the north side is a. lake of considerable extent, named Hog lake, as alsd several others not far distant. About twenty miles west of the head of bay Quantie, and fifteen miles north of the shore of lake Ontario, is situated what is called Rice lake, in consequence of the large quanti- ties of rice which grow sin it. This lake is from three to nine miles wide, and thirty-six in length, though not very deep. Its course is from east to west; the west end is not far from lake Simcoe. At the east ^^nd there is a fall of eighteen feet perpendicular, in SI the form of a half moon. Below the falls, begins what is called the river Trent, which is tolerably large, and affords many falls fit for water works. It empties into the bay Quantie at the head. This lake communicates with a chain of small lakes, called the Shallow lakes, which also afford rice, and extends near the north end of lake Simcoe. Lake Simcoe lies still west of Rice lake, and is something larger; it communicates with lake Huron to the south-west, by the river Severn. Lake Erie lies thirty miles distant from lake Ontario, and is three hundred miles long, and from twenty to forty miles wide. This lake is elevated about three hundred feet higher than lake Ontario, which causes the Falls of Niagara. The water, though pure, is not deep, nor is so safe for navigation as lake Ontario. ^ The lake St. Clair, is situate in a north-westerly course from lake Erie; still further to the north-west is lake Huron, in lat. 42; it is one hundred miles in cir- cumference. From lake Huron to the straits of St Mary, it is seventy miles to lake Superior, which is fifteen hundred miles in circumference, and lies be- tween forty-six and fifty degrees N. latitude, and be- tween eighty-four and ninety degrees west longitude from London. The island Royal, situate near the mid- dle of this lake is one hundred miles long, and forty wide. This province also contains many fine streams of wa- ter, the principal of which are the following: The Ottaways, or as it is sometimes called Grand River, is a large stream, rising out of lake Tomiscaut- ing, and running a south-easterly course, and empties itself in the St. Lawrence, above and below Montreal. The spring floods in the river rise in the nonth of June, or thereabout, and are often very destructive to the young crops. There is a great variety of fish in this nver. 82 The river Cananocqua, is also a considerable stream, and empties into the St. Laurence a few miles below Kingston. There is a stream of some note, called Myre'ft creek, which is said to abound with fish; the water is remarkably pure and clear; it empties into the bay Quantie about fifty miles north of Kingston. The river Trent also empties into the head of bay Quantie from Rice lake, is large, and contains a vari- ety of fish: many hundred barrels of salmon are caught in this stream every fall. Duffer's creek is also a fine stream, emptying into lake Ontario, thirty miles north-east of York. The river Rush empties into the lake eighteen miles below York, and is navigable for boats twenty miles up. The river Credit, one of the best rivers in Canada for salmon, is tolerably large, and empties into lake Ontario about fifteen miles above York. The Sixteen mile creek empties into the lake a few miles further up, is large, and also well stocked with fish; the Twelve mile creek empties itself about five miles further up, and is a beautiful stream. The Chippewa river runs into the Niagra river, three miles above the falls; what is called the Twenty mile creek, has its rise near the head of the Chippewa, and empties into lake Ontario sixteen miles west of Ni- agara. The Fifteen, Sixteen, Seventeen, Thirty and Forty miles creek all run into lake Ontario, rushing over the slope affording fine falls. The Grand river is a considerably large stream, of exceedingly clear water, rising from lake St. Clie, and is navigable for vessels of a considerable size, for fifty miles from its mouth; it empties into lake Erie, sixty miles from the east end. and contains many fine fish. 83 There is also the Thames, a large and beautiful ri« ver, rising near the head of Grand river, and emptying about thirty miles above Sandwich, into the head of lake Erie; there are, also, a number of fine streams running into lake Erie, such as Big creek, passing through Houghton and Middleton township, and Ket- tle and Otter creeks, in Middlesex county. There are not many villages in the province of Up- per Canada, of much note, the inhabitants finding their greatest advantage in agriculture, the land being very cheap and fertile. The following are a few of the most notable. CORNWALL is situate about one hundred and thirty miles down the river St. Lawrence, and is hand- some, but small. PRESCOTT is situate seventy miles below, stand- ing opposite to Ggdensburg, on the United States side; it is an inconsiderable place, and there is a fort and a garrison. BROCKVILLE Hes twelve miles higher up the ri- ver, and is handsomely situated, containing about eighty houses. KINGSTON stands a few miles below the head of the St. Lawrence, opposite to Wolf island, which is the means of forming a safe and commodious harbour. It contains about one hundred and fifty houses, a court house, jail, and two houses for public worship. The fort in this place is temporary, and the cannon small. It is a place of considerable commercial business, and is rapidly increasing. , YORK is situate one hundred and seventy miles south-west of Kingston, on the northern shore of lake Ontario, and is somewhat larger. It is laid out very much in the manner of Philadelphia, the streets inter- secting each other at right angles. It is the seat of 84 government, and contains some fine buildings, among which are a court house, council house,, and king's store house. The harbour is safe and beautiful, af- fording every convenience to shipping, and is so situ- ate, that while the water of the main lake is tossed like 4he waves of the sea, it remains perfectly smooth and calm. NIAGARA is situate on the south side of the lake, almost OT)posite York, at the point of land formed by the junction of the outlets of lakes Erie and Ontario. It is a beautiful, prospective situation, being surround- ed on two sides by water, the lake on the north, and the Niagara river on the east, which affords a fine har- bour. There are many squares of ground in this vil- lage adorned with almost every species of rare fruit. It is a place of considerable business, and is inhabited by an industrious and intelligent people. QUEENSTOWN lies seven miles further up the Niagara. It is a small but handsome village; the most of the houses are built of stone or brick, and are large and well finished. Here also is done considerable bu- sinesss, and there are some very wealthy residents. M CHIPPEWA is situate ten miles above Queens- ton, and two above the falls of Niagra, at the mouth of J the Chippewa Creek. It contains some handsome buildings. FOllT ERIE. There is a small village here of con- siderable beauty — The inhabitants carry on a consider^ - able traffic from the lake. TURKl^Y POINT, is situated about sixty miles south-west of Fort Erie, on the Lake shore, in the dis- trict of London, a little north of Long Point, It stands in a beautiful situation, is surrounded by a fertile couti'- try, and has a handsome court-house and jail. 85 • PORT TALBERT lies sixty-four miles farthei t© ihe south-west, on the lake shore; a town was laid out here in 1807, and bids fair for a considerable place. It has a fine harbor for shipping. MALDEN, this fort and village is situate on the south-west end of lake Erie, fourteen miles south of Detroit. It is a pleasant, though not a large place, and the fort is a strong one. On the twenty-seventli of September, 1813, this fort was burned by the Brit- ish, on the approach of Harrison, previous to the bat» tie of Moravian Town. vSANDWICH is situate still farther up the river, opposite Detroit, and is a handsome village of consid- arable age, inhabited chiefly by French. There are several other villages in the province not .immediately situate upon the water, which are of con- siderable size and beauty, but those already named are the principal. The province of Upper Canada is divided into eight, districts, twenty-four counties, and one hundred and tifty-six townships, generally about twelve miles square, these are subdivided into townships, and each town- *s one hundred and forty-four feet, add to this fifty feet which the water descends, above the falls, and seven- ty feet below, and we find that the river descends in eight miles and a half, two hundred and sixty-four feet. Some who have never seen this river suppose it to be much less than it is, and others suppose it to be larger; indeed it is hard for any one to judge with propriety, that has seen it, as there are but eight miles in the whole length of the river, between the two lakes, where any current can be seen, and that is very rapid. For the contemplation of the curious, v.'ho may, per- haps, never see these falls, I have made the following calculation, from which they may form some tolerable correct idea of the quantity of water that falls over this cataract. Say that each of the spaces, over which the water pilches, is four hundred yards wide, or twelve hundred feet; the most shallow one of these, or that on the Uni- ted States' side, is three feet deep on the verge of the rock, over which it falls. Now if we multiply its depth three feet, into its width, twelve hundred feet, we have m tinHy-sis hundred cubic, or solid feet of water, on the verge of the precipice. As there are sixty-two pounds avoirdupoise,. m a cubic or solid foot of water, and a little more, which we leave out to avoid fractions, so if we multiply sixty -two, the pounds in a square foot o-f witer, by thirty-six hundred, the number of feet of wa- ter on the verge, we have, two hundred and twenty- tliiree thousand, two pounds of water, on the verge of tJie' brecipice. But when we consider the laws of grav- ity Tespecting spouting fluids and falling bodies, we shall find the water of this cataract, receives a vast additional weight by the time it comes to the lowest point of fail. In order therefore to find this addition- al Tveight, we must note the following things: — ^"Hea- vv bodies near the surface of the earth, fall one foot ^he first quarter of a second, three feet the second, iive the third, and seven feet in the fourth quarter; that is sixteen feet in the first second. Let go three bullets together, stop the first at one second, and it will have fallen sixteen feet; stop the next at the end of the se- cond second, it will have fallen, four times sixteen, or six ty-four feet; stop the last at the end of the third second and the distance it will have fallen will be nine times sixteen or one hundred and forty-four feet, and so on: Now the momentum or force with which a falling body strikes, is equal to its v/eight multiplied by its velocity," and m order to find which we must multiply the per- pt'ridicuiar space fallen through by sixty-four, and the square root of the product is the velocity required — See Pike's Arithmetic, pages 362 and 5 From calculation, we find that the water of the cat- aract is three seconds descending the one hundred and- forty-four feet, and that the velocity acquired in that time and distance to be ninety-six, which, if we multi ply into two hundred and twenty-three thousand,, the 91 riiimber of pounds of water on the top of the rock, we imd that twenty-one millions four hundred and twenty- seven thousand two hundred is the weight thereof, at the lowest point of fall— This is the weight of the wa- ter at the smallest part of the cataract, or that on the United States' side. The other part of the Falls, as has be^n noted, is at least six times as large; that is, six times the quantity of water flows over. Now if we multiply the above sum, 21,427,200 by six, we shall have the enormous sum of 120,563,200 lbs. of waicr,, which falls on the bed of the river below:" About two miles above the Falls, there is a spring of water, whose vapour is highly inflammable, and is emit- ted, for a time, with a considerable degree of force. If gathered into a narrow compass, it will support combus- tion for tiventy minutes, and is capable of communicat- ing to water, placed in a confined vessel and held over it\ the degrees of boiling temperature. There is also, at some distance below the Falls, a large hole, called the Devil's Hole; it is three hundred yards in circumference, and three hundred feet deep, with trees and craggy rocks sticking to the inner sur- face. There is supposed to be a considerable depth of water at the bottom. What is called the Mountain Lake, may also be termed one of the curiosities of this portion of country; it is situated in Prince Edward County, on the shore, about thirty miles from Kingston, oh the top oi a mountain of about two hundred feet in height — it is three miles round, and, what is a curious circumstance, is well .»!tociced with fish, although, being in no manner con- nected with the bay or lake, except by a small stream dia^ flows from it into the bay, by a perpendicular de- scent. There are also manv other curiosities, which the iim- 9^ its of this work will not allow of being noticed. Among these may be counted the Whirlpool, about three miles below the Falls, and four above Queenston; as also the many falls in Twenty Mile Creek, which, like the Niagara, flows over the same mountain. One of these falls has a perpendicular descent of seventy-seven feet, and the water, after running for some time with great violence, falls over again, presenting to the admirer of nature a most imposing spectacle. DESCRIPTION OF A HIS province lies on both sides of the river St. I.awrence, between forty-five and fifty-two degrees of north latitude, and sixty-one and eighly degrees west longitude, from Greenwich. It is bounded on the north by New-Britain, on the east by the the gulf of the St. Lawrence, on the south east by New-Brunswick, ?he district of Maine, and New Hampshire; south by Vermont, and seventy-five miles of the state of New- York, viz; from lake Champlain to the St. Regis river, where it empties into the St. Lawrence; and on the west by Upper Canada. Upon the north line it extends to a distance of six ^lir.drcd and eighty-five miles; its extent on the south line is nearly nine hundred miles, and measures in I lie middle about four imndred and fifty miles, run- )ung narrower to each end, more especially to the norlh-easlcrn one. The dividing line betvrccn this 93 md the upper province, takes its commencement frorri the north side of lake St. Francis^ it then pursues learly a north course, running nearly twenty mil^es 'a33es through several lakes. Portnus, is a river of some length, coming from two small lakes. It empties into the St. Laurence, fifty miles above. 9 98 Pepe Chaisinagau river, succeeds in course, and falls into the St. Laurence, twenty miles above Portnus. In sailing up the St. Laurence, several small streams are seen; at length we come to St. James' river; and a little distance above, we come to the river Saguenay, which rises out of lake St. John, already noted; which lake is the repository of four considerable rivers, with their numerous branches, viz: those of the Picksuaga- nis, Chissouematon, Sable, and Perihoaca. In its course, the Saguenay receives the Missigninipi, and several more of considerable size; after which, it falls into the St. Laurence, one hundred and fifty miles below Que- bec, from nearly a west direction. This river is one hundred and fifty miles in length, from the lake; and sweeps along a prodigious quantity of water. It is in- terrupted in its course, by abrupt precipices, over which it dashes its foaming current; and being bounded by banks of great elevation, is remarkable for the depth and impetuosity of its flood, which is sensibly felt in the St. Laurence, whose water is obliged to yield to its impulse for a distance of several miles. Large ves- sels, apparently going their course, have thereby been carried side-long in a different direction. This river, is generally, three miles wide, except at its mouth, where it is only one; at which place, five hundred fathoms of line have been let down, without finding any bottom. Two miles up, it is one hundred and thirty-eight fathoms; and at sixty miles, it is sixty fathoms deep. Albany river succeeds next in course, which rises in a small lake, about sixty miles north from the St. Lau- rence, and flows through the fertile valley of Mal-bay, This river abounds with salmon and other excellent fish. ^ 99 Montmorenci is the next considerable river, and falls into the St. Laurence, eight miles below Quebec, over a precipice of two hundred and forty-six feet. St. Charles, falls into the same close by Quebec, and is of considerable size. On the south side of the gulf and river St. Lau- rence, there are a number of streams, which fall into it, and take their rise in New Brunswick, New Hampshire and Vermont. The largest is the Chandiere river, rising out of lake Megantic, and flowing a north course, one hundred and thirty miles, falls into the St. Laurence about eight miles above Quebec. Ships sail some distance up this river. The river Si. Nicholas, falls in on the same side of the St. Laurence, but a little higher up. Jacques Car' tier, a river of considerable size, falls into the St. Lau- rence, about thirty miles above Quebec. The stream of this, like all the rivers in Lower Canada, is fre- quently broken into cascades, affording picturesque scenery. The St. Ann, and Dog rivers, are streams of some note, and fall into the St. Laurence, from the north. Batisean river, also flows from the north, into the St. Laurence. Three Rivers, otherwise, called St. Maur- ice, falls into the St. Laurence, from the north, fifty miles above Quebec, by three mouths. It is three hundred miles long, and much navigated by the Indians, from the vicinity of Hudson bay. The tide of the St. Laurence flows no higher than the mouth of this river. . St. Reges river, rises in the state of Now-York, and falls into the upper end of lake St. Francis, in lat. 46 degrees. This is the last river of Lower Canada, which runs into the St, Laurence, £iom the south. 100 Ottawas river, is one of the largest in Upper Cana- da, except the St. Laurence, into which it falls below, and above Montreal, as has been noted. It is at least, one thousand miles long; one of its branches, the Petite Riviere, rises out of lake Tomis-Cauting, and after meeting together four hundred miles from Mon- treal, receives a number of tributary streams on its way, and pitches over a number of precipices. All the rivers as yet described, run into the St. Lau- rence from the south or north; there are several which run into James' bay, after rujining a western or north eastern course — viz. Slude river and Rupert's river, which has a course of nearly two hundred miles; and Harraconaw river, which empties into the south end of James' bay, and is a beautiful river. The river St. Larrence is one of the greatest, and most beautiful rivers; from its mouth to Montreal, the head of ship navigation, it is five hundred and forty -five miles; for one thousand more it is passed by very large boats, from here, for two hundred and forty miles, through Lake Ontario, the largest vessels in the world may sail. The harbors in Lower Canada are numerous, chief- ly situate in the St. Laurence; there are a few on lake Champlain, and two or three on the north-west coast of James' Bay. Fish, of which there is a great variety, is very plenty. There are but two cities in Lower Canada, Quebec and Montreal, (a description of these may be found ii;f the memoirs.) Coasiderins the sreat extent of Lower Canada, its villages are few in number, and small in size, chiefly lying on the banks of the St. Laurence. 101 The first of any note above Quebec, for there arc none below, is Jeunne Loreite; it lies nine miles north west of Quebec, and contains fifty log houses, inhabit- ed by French and some Indians; there is a decent chapel in this village. The village of Trois Rivieres, is situate on the north bank of the St. Laurence, extends three fourths of a mile long, and contains seventy houses and a church. Charlebourg is situate eighty miles east of Lorette, and is something larger. The village of William Henry or Sorel is agreeably situate at the confluence of the Sorel or Chambly riv- er with the St. Laurence, and contains a Protestant and Roman Catholic house for divine worship. Some distance above Sorel, is situate Vercheres; it contains about forty houses. Sault Saint Louis, is a small village of about one hundred and fifty houses, inhabited chiefly by the Iro- ejuois or Mohawk Indians. It is about sixteen miles above Montreal, and was originally built for those In- dians, who have long been converted to the christian re- ligion. It is chiefly built of stone. The church and dwelling of the missionaries are protected by a stone wall, in which there are loop holes for musquetry. Poi7it aux Trembles village is fifty-one miles from Quebec, contains one hundred and twenty houses, a small convent of nuns, and a neat church. The village of the Cedars is charmingly situated on the St. Laurence, not far above Montreal; it contains about fifty houses. • The Canasadagn village of the Iroquois, a Mohawk, ?-nd Algonquih tribes of Indians, is* situate on a de- lightful point of land on the hills, on the east side of the two mountains, in the Ottowas river. Near the extremity of the Point, their church is built, which di-- 9* ift«M»-^ 102 vides the village into two parts, forming a regular an- gle along the water side. It contains about two hun- dred houses, and two thousand five hundred souls. The province of Lower Canada is divided into three districts and twenty-one counties, viz: Gaspe, Corn- wallis, Devon, Hertford, Dorchester, Buckinghamshire, Richlieu, Bedford, Surry, Kent, Huntington, York, Montreal, l*iffinghara, Leinster, Warwick, St. Maurice. Hampshire, Quebec, Northumberland and Orleans These counties are subdivided into parishes. The only natural curiosities worth naming in Lower Canada, are those cascades and water-falls with which the province abounds. The Bird Isles, which are situate in the gulf of St Laurence, consist of two rocks elevated above the wa- ter, upwards of one hundred feet, their flattened sum- mits, whose circumference does not exceed three hundred yards, exhibit a resplendent whiteness, produ- ced by the quantities of ordure with which they are covered, from immense flocks of birds, which, in sum- mer, take possession of the apertures in their perpenr dicular cliffs, where they form their aests, and produce their young. When alarmed,, they hover above the rocks, and overshadow their tops by their numbers. The abundance of their eggs aft'ords to the inhabitants of the neighboring coast, a material supply of food. Ninety miles up the Saguenay river, already noted ^ there is a fall of water, that deserves aolice, chiefly on account of the immense sheet of water, which is per- petually broken in its itlgged course, and assumes' a resplendent whiteness. When viewed from below the scene is stupendous an^ terrific. The incessant and deafening roar of the waters cuid the violence with which they hasten to their des-^ cent, tend to produce on the mind of the spectator an 103 impression awfully grand; The picturesque and rude- ly wild forms of the lofty banks, exhibit a gloomy con- trast to the lively splendors of the cataract. Three hundred and thirty miles from the mouth of the St. Laurence is situate Cape Tourment, whose per- pendicular altitude is two thousand Feet. It exhibits a grand and sublime view, especially to those sailing up the river. The cataract of the river Montmorencie, whiclt empties into the St. Laurence, eight miles below Quebec, may be reckoned among ihe natural curiosi- ties of this country. The following description is in the words of Mr. Herriott: "After exhibiting a grateful variety throughout its course, the Montmorenci is precipitated in an almost perpendicular direction, over a rock of the height of two hundred and forty-six feet; falling, when it tonches the rock, in white clouds of rolling foam; and under- neath, where it is propelled with uninterrupted gravita- tion, in numerous flakes, like wool or cotton, which are gradually protra<',ted in their diescent, until they are re- ceived in tho boiling profound abyss below." "Viewed from the summit of the cliff, from whence Ihey are thrown, the waters, with every concommitant circumstance, produce an effect equally grand, and wonderfully sublime. The prodigious depth of their descent, the brightness and volubility of their course, the swiftness of their movement through the air, and the loud and hollow noise emitted from the basin^ swelling with incessant agitation^ from the weight of the dashing waters, forcibly combine to attract the at- tention, and to impress with sentiments of grandeur and elevation^ the mind of the spectator. The clouds of vapor arisina and assuming the prismatic colors, cantribttte to enliven t'le scene. They fly off from the 104 fall, in the form of a revolving sphere, emitting with velocity pointed flakes of spray, which spread, in re- ceding, until intercepted by neighboring banks, or dis- solved in the atmosphere." "'I'he breadth of the fall is one hundred feet; the ba- sin is bounded by steep cliffs, composed of grey lime slate, lying in inchned strata, which on the east and west sides, are sub-divided into innumerable thin shiv- ers, forming with the horizon an angle of forty-five de- grees, and containing between them fibrous gypsum, and pi'erre a calumet, a soft stone of which the heads of pipes are sometimes formed, mouldering incessantly by exposure to the air, and the action of the weather; no surface for vegetation remains upon these substan- ces." Eight miles from Quebec, the river Chaudiere emp- ties into the south side of St. Laurence; and four miles from its mouth, there is a beautiful cataract, which de- serves attention. 'The month of May, appears to be the most advan- tageous period, at which to contemplate this interes- ting scene, the approach to which ought first to be made, from the top of the banks; as in emerging from the woods, it conducts at once to the summit of the cataract, where the objects which instantaneously be- come developed to the eye, strike the mind with sur- prise, and produce a powerful impression. 'The water descends from a height of one hundred and twenty feet, and being separated by rocks, forms three separate cataracts; the largest of which, is on, the western side, and they unite in the basin, beneath their broken and agitated waters. The form of the rock forces a part of the water, into an oblique direction* and advances them beyond the line of the precipice. The cavities worn in the rocks, produce a pleasing va- 105 riety, and cause the descending waters to revolve witlV foaming fury, to whose whiteness the gloomy cliffs pre- sent a strong opposition of color. The vapor from each division of the falls, quickly mounting through the air, bestows an enlivening beauty on the landscape. "The wild diversity displayed by the banks of the stream, and the fohage of the overhanging woods, the briUiancy of colors richly contrasted, the rapidity of motion, the refulgent brightness of the cataracts, the deep and solemn sound, which they emit, and the va- rious cascades further down the river, unite in render- ing this such a pleusing exhibition of natural objects as few scenes can surpass." "On descending the side of the river, the landscape becomes considerably altered, and the falls appear to great advantage. Masses of rocks and elevated points of land, covered with trees, together with the smaller cascades on the stream, present a rich assemblage, terminated by the falls. The scenery, in proceeding down the river, is rugged and wild. "Viewed in the Winter season, the falls exhibit an appearance more curious than pleasing, being for the greatest part congealed, and the general form of the congealed masses, is that of a concretion of icicles, which resembles a cluster of pillars in Gothic architec- ture; and may not improperly be compared to the pipes of an organ. The spray becomes likewise consolida- ted into three masses, or secretions of a cone, exter- nally convex, but concave toward the falls. The west side being usually the only place in which the water* ik>w; the aspect is infinitely inferior to that, displayed in Summer; and the sound emitted, is comparatively faint. The surrounding objects, covered alike with snow, produce one uniform glare. The rocks and the b«d of the river, disgciised by unshapely white masses^, 106 produce a reflection, which gives, even to the waters ol I the cataract, an apparent tinge of obscurity." In the midst of the low ground, near cape Tourment, a narrow hill, about a mile in length, and flatted on its summit, rises to the height of one hundred feet. Up- on the top is erected a large dwelling house, and a chapel; and thither the ecclesiastics of the seminary of Quebec, to whom the land belongs, retire in the Sum- mer. There are many other curiosities in this province, which cannot here be described; those most remarkable, however have already been noted. Almost all the inhabitants of Lower Canada, that have come to the years of maturity, are professors of religion — the great majority are of the Roman Catho- lic persuasion, for whose worship some years back, there were, one hundred and thirty churches, seven convents, one hundred and ninety secular and regular priests and one bis^ }« c?\' c 0' V .^ X^' '^^0^ ^^^ -- - ^ "^AO^ . V .^^ 9.^ cP ^ "^pA^^,/^, - - '^/.O^ -^z. n\ « 6 '> % .V- ■^ .s^°^ fif '^j '^. * . 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