3 } THE TRIP STEAMER OCEANUS hxi ^imt^i' mi i^hmk^tm, #* tf . Comprising the Incidents of the Excursion, the Appearance, at that tune, of the City, and the entire Programme of Exercises at the Re-raising of the Flag over the Ruins of FORT SUMTER, APRIL 14rth, 1865 BY A COMMITTEE APPOINTED BY THE PASSENGERS OF THE OCEANUS. BROOKLYN : ■THE UNION" STEAM PRINTING HOUSE, 10 FRONT STREET. 18G5. Oc-V., C<\ Kntered, according to Ait ol Congress, in tlie yeiir lMi5. Bv J. CLEMENT KRENCH am. EDWARD CAKY. In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Eastern Distrii t ot New York. • I I- INTEODUCTORY N^OTE. The preparation of this hook, whatever may be its reception bv those to whom it is dedicated, has been a hibor of love. Unsought, and ahnost under protest, the work was under- taken, at the unanimous request of the passengers of the " Oeeanus." It was an addition to stated professional duties, which the committee appointed were exceedingly reluctant to accept. But, once begun, it brought its reward continually, in the joy of living over again minutely, every scene which made the excm-sion to Charleston the most memorable as to object, enjoyment and inspiration, which our national history has ever made possible. The work etfects no faultlessness. In the brief space during which it was composed, there was little opportunity for elabo- ration. It professes to be, not a treatise upon national affairs, nor yet a discussion of principles, but a current, unimagina- tive, and therefore we trust, a perfectly truthful narration of scenes and incidents, from the hour the "Oceanus" left the wharf, until she brought us there again. The writers describe not only what was seen and enjoyed by themselves, but by hundreds of others, who are asked to bear witness to the faithfuhiess of these records. IV rXTRODFOTOKV. 'rin' (Iilay ill issiiiim the iiifiiiorial. has arisen I'roin the iieeessarv ()f'eii|Kitie. we eontidently believe that they will i)e amply repaid hy the style of typography, illns- ti-ation and ireneral linisli. in which the work is |)resented. The committee, to whom tln' pi-epai'ation ot' the volume was entrusted, would gratefully acknowledge the kindly as- sistance, through coiiimunicated incidents, gleanings from the press, notices of relics, and manifestations of deep interest in the work, rendered liy many of their fellow- voyagers. To Mr. E. Anthony, of the firm '• K. Sc FT. T. Anthony," No. 501 Broadway, New Yoi-k. who had an artist in the field, and who kindly |)ermitted his copy-righted views to be used for illustration, the committee of piil)licatiou woidd tender their hearty thanks, in the name of the •" Humtcr Club.'' In conclusion, they would state that this book is not an avant-(!Ourier. Authorship was as far from their intention as desire. An edition, covering but fcnv more copies than tliose actually subscribed for hy the passengers of the " Oceanus," is all that will be issued. The public may therefore rest assured, that it will then be out of ])rint. and in this case, the Script\n-al assertion. " of making many books there is no end." will liavi^ a positive exception. If. in the pei'usal of these pages, those who visited the ruined city and the storied Fort, shall experience any satisfaction ; if in coming years, it shall (b'light any one to remember the histoi'ic excursion, the bettei- by these simple recoi'ds ; if any impulse shall be given to the sacred cause of loyalty to our common couuti-y, the whole desire of those who now commit them to the public view, will be altundantly answered. Wa l|fe Sumter Club, Extemporized in origin : unexampled in occasion ; abounding with the representatives of pulpit, press, forum, and counting-room : graced with feminine beauty and culture ; a synonym for patriotic devotion to •"^ "T H 13 F iia A © © F © 10 M. inrM 1 © B 9 "> => the anniversary of whose resurrection in Charleston Harbor it is henceforth to celebrate with "FEAST OF REASON, AND FLOW OF LOYAL SOUL, this volume is primarily and cordially 4^ IC D I C A T E D . THE TRIP OF THE OCEANUS Jf0ti ^Emtigr amir (^terlfstoE, S^mii; ftEiriEFlteE. <^ c2:> ^ ^ ^.' CHAPTER I. When the welcome intelligence reached the North that Charleston was occupied by the victorious legions of Gen. Sherman, the expectation was universal that a day would he appointed for the formal raising of the Fnited States Hag over the ruins of Fort Sumter. That expectation, our President did not disappoint. With that unerring discernment of appropriate times and seasons, for which he was ever remarkable, he named the fourteenth of April, the fourth anniversary of the surrender, and the lowering of the banner for a four years' banishment. From the first appearance of this proclamation, it was felt that the occasion would 6 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. be one around wliicli national and historic interest would gather. Upon that day, every loyal son of the United States would exult, and give praise to God ; every trai- tor or sympathizer with treason, if not too hardened, would blush for the temerity and wickedness which at- tempted dishonor to the nation's standard ; every well- wisher to the American liepublic, in foreign lands, would sing in his heart a glad " Te Deumy It was known that a steamer, officially commissioned, would convey to the Fort all those who were to take active ])art in the exercises, together with a few more favored individuals ; but what should they do, who were not within that charmed circle, the '■'■ ignoMle vul- gus^-- who were not so happy as Government patronage, just at this time, would have made them? Fortunately, a few gentlemen, to whom all the passengers of the Oceanus, upon that ever-memorable excursion, will always be grateful, conceived and executed a plan to afford this pleasure to a goodly number of their fellow-citizens. These gentlemen were Messrs. Stephen M. Griswold and Edwin A. Studwell, of Brooklyn, who subsequently associated with themselves Mr. Edward Cai-y, Editor of The JJnion^ whose services were confined, however, to issuing the tickets and receiving the money at the office of that paper. In pursuance of a jdan arranged by these gentlemen, the steamer " Oceanus" was chartered of the Neptune Steamship Company, G. S. Howland, President, for nine days, for which time she was turned over to the Committee for a trip to Charleston, and such other TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. points as tlie passengers sliould decide to visit. Origi- nally, the plan of the trip embraced not only Charleston Harbor and Fort Sumter, but Hilton Head, Fort Fisher, Fortress Monroe, Norfolk, Portsmouth, and possibly City Point, to which — ^when we heard of the fall of the Rebel capital — Richmond, also, was conditionally added. The expenses of the trip were divided among the passengers equally, so that $100 paid for berth and meals for the round trip. The first announcement of the proposed excursion was made in The Union of March 30th, in a very modest and succinct manner; the statement was repeated on the following day, and also made from Mr. Beecher's pulpit on Sunday. The result was a rush for tickets, beginning on the 31st, and increasing to such an extent that on Monday, the 3d of April, the Committee enlarged the number of passengers from one hundred and fifty, as originally determined, to one hundred and eighty. The scenes in the office of The Union were extremely amusing, resulting from the earnestness of the applicants, their nervous anxiety each to secure the best accommo- dations possible, and from the hearty good humor w^ith which all treated each other. The increase in the num- ber of passengers wholly failed to satisfy the demand ; twice as many would have eagerly taken the opportunity to go, if possible, and another party was projected, which was abandoned only because no other suitable steamer could be obtained. Finally, on the eighth of April, it was duly announced 8 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. that all the preparations were completed. The contract* for the l)t)at had been duly signed, the tickets disposed of, passes obtained for the passengers individually, and a very liberal general permit, direct from the AVar De- partment, for the vessel — the latter largely through the kind offices of Mr, H. C. Bowen, of the Independent ; the provender had been stored, the vessel put in sea- o-oinof order, and Hon. Cyrus P. Smith, President of the Union Ferr}^ Company, had kindly proffered the use of one of the largest of the East River ferry-boats to trans- fer the passengers from the foot of Montague Street to the dock of the Oceanus, at the foot of Robinson Street, on the North River, whence the excursionists were to start at noon, precisely, of the 10th. On the morning of the lOtli, at half-past ten, the Fulton Ferry boat Peconic started with her joyous com- pany, which was duly transferred to the Oceanus. The scenes at the wharf of the steamer were characteristic: the passengers coming on board in good time and cheer- ily, while many were still awaiting a possible vacancy. The only addition to the company was Col, Howard, i>f the 128th Colored Regiment, who was eager to reach his command at Charleston, having just come from Sherman's triumphant army at Savannah, where he had been attached to the staff of his br(jtlier. Gen. Howard. The time for departure having come, the crowd upon the wharf gathered to bid us God-speed. And a God-speed we had — possibly barring the speed — * See Appendix. TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 9 but with good cheer, good nature, faitliful seas, grand ninsic, glowing patriotism, congenial company, hearts over- brinnning with joy — save the last Dark Day — and pre- eminent Divine favor, from the hour that we waved our adieus, till agaiu we touched the wharf at the foot of Robinson Street — all of which we will proceed to nar- rate witii as much faithfulness as possible in the next and succeeding chapters. CHAPTEE II. At 10 minutes past 12 oY-lock M., April lOtli, tlie screw of the good steamer Ocean us began its recalcitra- tion, slowly pushing its precious and happj freight out upon the bosom of the river. Cheer upon cheer broke forth from the crowd gathered upon the wharf, re- sponded to by the passengers tilling every available standing place upon the vessel's landward side ; hats and handkerchiefs were waved in the air, and parting messages exchanged, until the shouting and signals be- came futile by the increasing distance. It was evident that we had left hundreds of envious and yet congratu- latory hearts behind. We bore our enjoyment and honors meekly. The day was in unhappy mood. All the morning the skies had lowered. A iin«, tiltering mist had only slightly dampened our ardor. Now the rain increased, and a tenuous fog thickened gradually over the surface of the bay. It was not an auspicious inauguration of our voyage, but the doubting were assured by tlie hope- ful, who quoted the venerable and philosophic maxim " A bad beginning makes a good ending." In the smooth waters of the harbor, we were pluming TEip OF thp: oceanus. 11 ourselves upon the delightful steadiness of the steamer. The inexperienced were sure that the discomforts of a sea voyage, must have been greatly overstated. Now we pass Governor's Island, and the familiar landmarks in our own enterprising City ; we leave upon our left, Fort Lafayette, that boarding place of sundry treason- enacting individuals, and upon our right, the fortifica- tions and heights of Staten Island ; now we point out the low sandy waste of Coney Island, and desci'y in the misty distance the light-house of Sandy Hook. It is the opinion of the writer that somewhere near this locality the hitherto staid steamer began to lose its re- putation for steadiness, and certain passengers, whose temperance and sobriety is proverbial, to exhibit strange symptoms of inebriety. Upon this point, however, owing to temporary aberration of his own intellect, he would prefer not to be considered authority. Yet he has suf- ficient distinctness of memory to recall a peculiarly gyratory motion among the passengers, as they attempted to navigate the cabin, the clutching here and there of an outsider at the gunwale, and occasional visages of more than ordinary pallor. Pie remembers one gentle- man of portly carriage and still happy face, standing near the cabin entrance with his friends, who, upon a sudden roll of the vessel, was caught just behind the knees by an opportune chair, and, as he was tilted over backward into its cushioned receptacle, remarked some- what drily, " I believe I'll sit down," The situation, which had been in a good degree comical, was now be- 12 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS, coming more serious, when suddenly — ruh — thump — stoji — and we were aground. We liad struck the sand-sjMt, and all the tem])est of the screw only suffic^ed to beat the shallow waters into unavailing foam at the stern. We hailed our supposed deliverer in a })uffing, spitting steam-tug, just in the offing, but which, upon being lashed to the great hulk of the Oceanus, appeared like an ant tugging at a kernel of corn, and was about as efficient. Signal was given foi' a ]>ilot-boat, which soon came bearing down before the breeze, and when within fifty yards, dropped a row-boat astern, containing a [)ilot, and two oarsmen. Soon an order comes for the gen- tlemen to go forward, as the vessel is aground aft. We all go out upon the forward deck, and stand with com- mendable i~»atience in the sifting rain. The etfect be- comes speedily apparent, for, deju'essed at the bow by such a weiglit of corporeal and mental ballast, tlie ship swings clear of the sand, and Ave discover by the buoys that we are drifting free. A few (pierulous iiulividuals undertake t(» chaffer with the old salt, who stands M'ith arms akimbo upon the window casement of the pilot- house. They soon learn that the experience of twenty years at sea not only perfects the nautical science, but sharpens the wits of a New York Harbor })ilot. "Can't you take us out this afternoon T' asks an im- patient passenger. " I reckon \ can, if )ou say so,'' responds the son of Neptune ; " but you'd better lay here to-night." " Why so y" TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 13 "Yon o-entleinen want to go to Charleston, don't you?" " (Jf course" — from a dozen voices. " Wall, you'd ])etter lay here then to-night, tor it's goin' to be a Averry dirty, nasty night outside." Meanwhile, the (Jonnnittee are holding a conference with the captain, and returning, submit the (juestion to the vote of the passengers, which, by a very lai'ge ma- jority, is decided in favor of remaining for clearer weather, until morning if necessary; accordingly, while a few of the opposition are warmly debating the possibilities of danger and too long delay, lest we might miss the cele- bration of the coming Friday, with a rush and noise like small thunder down goes the anchor, and we lie as mo- tionless in the shallow waters at Sandy Hook as if moored at the wharf at the foot of Robinson St. The temporarily sea-sick reappear. The cabins are tilled with groups of ladies and gentlemen joyously discussing the morning news of the suri'ender of Lee, the prospects of the excursion, and the sensil)le conclusion to wait for brighter skies ; or, disposed in various attitudes, and with nondescript pens and pencils, and extemporized bits of letter ]iaper, writing a few words to home friends, jocu- larly dating their missives, "^On Sandy Hook." A well- known fellow-citizen of the happiest countenance acts as collecter of these epistles, and is the mail-carrier to the pilot. The Chairman of the Committee summons the passen- gers to the deck below, and explains to them the ar- rangements for the trip, the sea-worthiness of the vessel, 14 TRIP OF THE OCKANUS. the capacity and variety of the larder, and answers the queries of the inquisitive with satisfactory minuteness and good nature. Notliing was left us now hut to kill time in the nu)st entertaining and proiitable manner })ossible ; and it was to the quick intelligence of a lady that we were indebted for a patriotic meeting in the evening, which was the jubilant key-note for all its successors; a series of meet- ings, whose enjoyableness in all the elements of patriotic fervor and eloquence, pathos, breadth, wit, and humor, is seldom equaled. The meeting of Monday evening was organized by the appointment of Hon. Cyrus P. Smith, President ; Hon. Edward A. Lambert, Joshua Leavitt, D. D., Henry C. Bowen, Hon. A. M. Wood, and S. M. Griswold, Vice- Presidents, Hon. George Hall and Mr. E. A. Studwell, Secretaries. Mr. Wm. B. Bradbury kindly consented to act as Director-General of music, the piano being gener- ously furnished for the trip by Messrs. Sawyer & Thomp- son. The most humorous introduction was given to the exercises by the facetious proposition to sing, in begin- ning, "We are out on the ocean sailing'' — the most perfect burlesque upon our situation, fast at the end of an anchor chain, and as motionless as the hills of Nevi- sink. When the explosion of laughter which greeted this announcement had sul)sided, the familiar Sabbath- school glee was sung with a will. Peculiarly suggestive to many seemed the last three lines : TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 15 "When we all are safely landed Over on that golden shore, We icill walk about the city," etc., etc. Rev. Tlieo. L. Ciiyler was called upon to state the object of the meeting'. For half an hour he stated it witli anecdote and illustration, reminiscence and appeal, in a strain of fervid, patriotic eloquence, and resumed his seat amidst a storm of applause. His speech was a Utting preparation for the soul-stirring song, " Rally round the tlag, boys!" which followed at "his request. We may remark, in i)assing, that throughout the entire excursion, the unusual amount of excellent musical as M'ell as speaking talent Avas brought into daily i-equisition. The second s})eaker of the evening was Rev. O. B. Frothingham, whose well-considered, earnest, and timely address was listened to with very marked attention. Rev. H. M. Gallaher, of the l^assau Street Baptist Church, a stranger to many of the party at the outset, was next introduced, and for nearly an hour kept the company in a tumult of laughter and applause by his side-splitting stories, his racy narrations, his broad come- dy, his glowing eulogies of his adopted country — he is an Irishman — and his brilliant climaxes. He was no longer a stranger to the passengers of the Oceanus. Mr. Bradbury's spirited national glee, " Victory at last," which all the musical on board seemed to catch as b}^ intuition, was then sung with a vociferous effect, which might almost have been heard on shore. This song became one of the indispensable spiceries of every 16 TKir OF thp: oceanus. occasion, and, by the kind permission of its author, is to be fonnd, with the music, in the appendix. A brief address was made by Rev. J. Clement French, followed by Col. Howard, ])reviously mentioned. The Colonel's address was replete with practical common sense, and witli frank and cordial acknowledgment of the services of the privates, such as might have been expected from a true soldier, whose best record is to be found in his deeds. After the" grand old Doxology, " Praise God from whom all blessings tiow,'^ the meeting adjourned, subject to the call of the President. And it was high time, for, during the speeches of the last two gentlemen, the sounds of hurrying feet upon the decks had been heard ; the welcome news had been whis])ered through the company that we were weighing anchor, and were about to proceed on our way ; the now familiar roll of the ship began again to be experienced ; the speakers were steadying themselves against the table and iron braces of the cabin, and a very few of tlie most sensitive had quietly withdrawn to their state-rooms. Going forth to the bow, we found that the steamer liad already left the lights of Sandy Hook far in the distance, the dull clouds were opening in rifts, through which the friendly moon smiled promi- ses of a fairer sky ; the pilot was gone, and we were fairly at sea. Despite the inspiriting etfects of these pleasant omens, the duty of an honest historian compels us to state that TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 17 certain stalwart gentlemen, with an excess of self-denial, gave whatsoever they had laid bv at the snpper-table to the iishes of the sea. The general impression seemed to prevail that it was liigli time for all honest and pa- triotic individnals to he in their berths. Further than this, concerning Monday night, your deponent saith not. To attempt a description of the scenes on board onr vessel throughont Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday morning for yon indeed, might be amusing, bnt for us, "it is not convenient." A strange oblivion concerning those hours settles upon our memory. We remember hearing the strains of Helmsmuller's Band contending with the creaking of the rolling ship, and the dashing of the waves; an occasional tiourish by some fair hand upon the piano, supplemented by a distressed sound in the after cabin ; the voice of Helon Johnson, the colored waiter, singing in the adjoining state-room the tantaliz- ing ditty, " Rocked in the cradle of the deep, I lay me down in peace to sleep," — the rich sweetness of whose tones only enhanced the impertinent mockery ; the unsteady tread of the ex- empt, as they shambled past our door ; the untouched bowls of soup ; the prescriptions without number of sea- water, brandy, mustard, lemon-juice, ice-cream, salt pork, et id omne genus ; the glimpses we caught through the crack of the door of serried rows of mattresses in the cabins, each bearing a pale-faced, despairing female, whose head was in painful proximity to a little green, 18 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. seini-lniiar hasiii of tin, with (•.]minl)erniai(l^^ liiiri'vinn' to and fro, themselves worn down by constant service ; the l)rave resistance to sea-sickness by onr room-mate, who had weathered the storms of Lake Erie and Michi<;-an, until tlu'^ lieavy sea of Thnrschiy mornino- obliged him to snccumb ; liow he rushed into the state-room wliere we were writhing in superlative wretchedness, divested himself, in a twinkling, of his outer and nether integu- ments, plunged into his l)erth with the expressive de- claration, "Whew! Fm as dizzy as a hat," until we of the lower berth writhed again with irrej)ressible laugh- ter — -these few distinct recollections come floating through the vagueness which gathers over those darksome days, and iiiay serve as hints for those who desire to treasure up the more ludicrous incidents of the voyage. But the meetings went on, with diminished numbers, it is true, but with no abatement of interest. On Tues- day evening, Edward A. Lambert, Esq., presided. We were told that the Rev. A. P. Putnam made the open- ing address, fully equaling the occasion in inq)ressiveness and powei" that the Rev. J. L. Corning spoke pointedly and pleasantly ; that Charlton T. Lewis, Esq., of New York, delighted the audience with the clearness and force of his thought, and the graceful finisli of his rheto- ric ; that Ilev. II. M. Gallaher again scintillated with increasing popularity ; and Rev. Dr. Leavitt gave weight and dignity to the occasion by his narrations of personal ex])erience, and forceful utterances of practical truth, while music and applause and laughter tilled up all the inter- stices of the hastily-fleeting hours. TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 19 We were indebted, on each of these occasions, to Miss Phoebe B. Merritt and Miss Mary Bowen for some ex- cellent piano solos. Wednesday passed with little of special interest. The sea was calmer. Cape Ilatteras had been cleared with- out inconvenience additional. We were experiencing a marked modification of temperature. State-rooms became uncomfortably close. It was said that the sea outrivaled the sky in the depth and infinity of blue ; that a school of por]3oises rolled their Ijlack backs above the waves in merry gambols around the steamer, and that those who had " oil on the brain" looked with stoical indifference upon a whale. It was also averred that the culinary and dietetic arrangements Avere becoming more and more satisfactory, and that the number gathered al)out the board was upon the increase. A third meeting was held in the evening, presided over by Hon. A. M. Wood, of Brooklyn. The first speaker upon tliis occasion was Mr. A. M. Powell, a correspondent of the Tribune. His address was thoughtful, earnest, radical, and convincing. Col. Howard, Hon. Edgar Ketclnim, Dr. J. Allen, Revs. T. L. Cuyler and II. M. Gallaher, with others, continued the interest of our former gatherings. At the close, several of the colored waiters, whose choruses upon the lower decks had attracted much attention, wei-e invited to sing for our company. Coming modest- ly into so august a presence, they rendered the "John Brown" song with peculiarly fine effect. 20 TKIP OK 'niK OdKANUS. Tln'ouiilmiit the afternoon of Wednesday, and part of the niii'ht, we were enveh)ped in an impenetrable fog. Uut the morning of Thnrs^day was (dear and beautiful, with no other motion foi' our vessel than that imparted by the long roll of the sea. Hut this was now excessive. The steamer, being a pro])ellor, had nothing with which to overcome the trough of the sea, in which we were fearfully rocking. She would make trom four to six heavy lurches, then, for a few seconds, all would be comparatively quiet; then as many more rolls, and all things not lashed down, including men and women, pitch across the cabin. Some of the stoutest and bravest had to show the white feather this morning. The rear (^abin again became a hospital. It was thought that we must 1)0 very near Charleston. We were promised the sight of its spires by eight o'clock A. M., Init we did not see them. All day long, until three o'clock, the steamer's course was laid nearly due west. ITow could it be that we were so far fr(jm land { At last it was ascertained that during the night we had been borne to the eastward by the (-rulf stream, and this distance was now being recovered. At length, not far from three o'clock, the joyfid sli()ut, "Land hoi" (piickened the languid judses, dissipated the ermiii^ called out of their seclusion the i)allid and bilious-tinted, and crowded the deck with eager-eyed searchers, through o])era-glasses, for the coveted terra- tirnia. 'J'he light-ship was ])laiidy visible, upon whose side, the most clear-sighted could read the suggestive TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 21 name, "Rattlesnake Shoals." Beyond conld be descried the low reach of land: a dim pile, which we were as- sured was Fort Snmtei", and still further, tlie spires of the once proud, hut now humbled, Charleston. The arrival ou board of the pilot completed our satisfaction, and the welcome he received was unfeigned. He was a short, stout man, dressed in army blue, with which the color of his large, tiat eye precisely corres- ponded. His face was nut-brown, from the tinting- ot Southern breezes. He was born and brought u]) in Charleston. He at once informed the captain that the bar could not be passed until high-tide, at six o'clock. Accordingly, the anchor was dropped, and we gently rocked for two hours "in the cradle of the deep." This pilot is now in Government employ. When asked if all the people of Charleston were loyal, he shrugged his shoulders, and made no reply. One said : " We are ooin^ down to itial^e you loval." " You won't make me loyal," said the old tar, " for I always have been," We afterwards learned that his testimony concerning himself was true. 2 C H A P T E 11 III. TnK scenes M-liich greeted tlie passengers of the Oceanns, as we slowly steamed toward and tlirongh the harbor of Charleston, not even tlie most stolid and impassable will ever forget. At precisely six o'clock, anchor was weighed. The entire company was upon the decks, with glasses ready for observation. The band took its position njxtn the verv bow. Previons to starting from the anchorage, there had l)een a brief shower, giving a delicious freshness to the air, and leaving the western heavens overspread with heavy, breaking clouds of gray. Suddenly a sign appeared before us, of singular and portentous interest. The rays of the sun smote a circular opening in the murky clouds, hemming their edges with a l)and of light, and, just for a moment, poured down a flood of glory u])on the jagged walls of Fort Sumter, and the waters of the harbor. The pilot stood at the window, from which, besides o-ivino' his directions to the helmsman, he announced the various points of interest, as we approached and passed them. The first object of note was a line of low earthworks TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 23 upon the left shore, npoii tlie to]) of wliieh were several soldiers, whose muskets glistened in the light. They M'ere " watching the approach of our vessel, and as we moved along, ran wildly down to the sandy beach, waving their handkerchiefs in joyous welcome. Just beyond, were two buoys, marking the spots where the Keokuk and Weehawkeu were sunk, the staft' upon the bow of the latter being visible, to which the hand of some eager patriot had lashed a small American flag. We would not fail to record another disi)lay in the sky, which just at this point arrested every gaze, and called forth from the entranced observers, at length, a burst of the wildest enthusiasm. It was no mere fig- ment of the imagination, Ijut a vision to the reality and beauty of which every passenger on the Oceanus M-as a delighted witness. All at once arose a cry of admiration, as a hun- dred hands pointed to the spectacle. " Sea ! the red, white, and blue ! the red, Avhite, and blue !" — for there, right before us in the western heavens, the scarlet streak- ings of the sunlight lay in parallel bars of amazing equi- distance upon the grayish blue background of mist, in- termingled here and there with white bands of the nearer clouds, the whole forming a singularly perfect picture of our beloved flag, hung out, as it seemed, by the hand of God, over the recovered city, and greeting with its celestial benison the sons and daughters of the North who were bringing the tidings of Lee's surrender, and the death of the Rebellion. 24 TRTP OF THE OCKANUS. As tlie tlioiio;lit, in .'ill its significance, snffused our sonls, many an eye was moist, and hands were clasped, in the devontness of joy. ISTow, we are })assing' a hjng and low tongue of land, beyond which the bay returns backward. Upon this stands Fort Wagner, of the deepest liistoric interest. Here, for the first time, it was demonstrated that negroes could and would fight terribly, desperately, even to de- cimation. Along that narrow causeway, exposed to the murderous direct fire from the Fort, the dauntless regiment charged with the impetuosity of a tempest, to be rolled Ijack by the torrent of shot and shell ; again and again rallied and charged against fearful odds, until their Colonel, the nol)le and lamented Shaw, fell in his blood, the idol of his men, and the admired of all the ])rave. It is not certainly known where his body sleeps. There were some of Carolinian blood, whose aj)precia- tion of heroism rose no higher than the plantation edict : "Bury him with his niggers!"" Some say that his re- mains were scattered l)y the Rebels to the four winds of heaven. Others affirm that they were buried obscurely near the sjiot on which he fell. It is reported, also, that when it was proposed to his father to remove the dust of the heroic soldier to some other burial-place, he replied that '* he wanted no better or nobler grave for his son than the very soil nyum which he poured out his blood." Next, we. pass Sullivan's Island, upon the angle of TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 25 which was tlie ftinious Cuinmiiigs' Point Battery, built of raih'oad iron, and which rolled the cannon-shot of Sumter from its sides as thouo-h they had been ])eas. Now we are approaching; Foi't Sumter itself, the cen- tre of all present observation and interest. There it lies, like a vast disabled monster, crouching in sullen and con- scious imbecility, in the centre of the harbor. Its para- pets, once so lovely, are battered into jagged shapeless- ness. Its sides are deeply pock-marked and indented. Heaps of rnbljish and dehris around its base disclose the terrilic ordeal through which it has passed since April, 1S61. From the new Hag-staff in its centre waves the Banner of the Republic, never again to be displaced by the hand of the traitor. Its port-holes are mostly closed. Rows of wicker baskets can be descried, filling up the ghastly chasms. Here and there upon the walls, a sen- tinel paces to and fro. Involuntarily our heads are all uncovered. A solemn silence pervades the throng, as for a moment the thought of the past four years, with their changes, passions, carnage, suffering, defeats de- pression, and final triumph Hashes through every mind. There is but one language which can express the emo- tions of that moment. It is the language of thankful song. And, as by a conmion inspiration, our voices break forth in one grand, surging, heaven-echoed chorus: " Praise God, from whom all blessings flow ! Praise Him, all creatures here below ! Praise Him above, ye Heavenly Host ! Praise Father, Son, and Holy Ghost!" That allelulia is heard by the guardians of the old 26 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. ruin. In (jiiick response, the ling is dipped, tlie walls bristle with armed men waving their salute ; the liand peals forth the " Star Spangled Banner" — iitting har- mony to 1)0 rolled back upon the recreant sons of the South Carolinian who [)eiincd its measures — and we move on to other scenes. Fort Sumter I an t'evoi/'! Just beyond the ruin, at the left, lies the wreck ot the famous old Hoating-battery, built by Beauregard, with which to take the fort. A portion of one of its sides, with four port-holes visible, still remains above the wa- ter. Near by, are the wrecks of two Englisli b](K-kade- runners, the smoke-stacks and bowsprit only being in sight. To the right is Fort Moultrie, — abandoned by Major Anderson and his brave followers in 1861, for the stronger defense of Fort Sumter, now in good condition, though never a fortification of superior strength. Bat- tery Bee extends its low earth-mounds, now green with luxuriant grass, for a long distance towards the city. Fort Ripley a})pears in the midst of the water, a snuill and insignificant redoubt, built by the Rebels, with the stones taken from the streets of Charleston. Beyond, and of njore importance, rises Castle Pinckney, surrounded by a high light-house. On either side of the harbor, the shores are crowned with groves of the j)ines peculiar to this country, their tops branching and interwoven, and presenting to the inexperienced, the appearance of the palmetto. This latter tree shows itself but sparsely here. We saw but one or two specimens, and these were as crooked and TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. )i i uiiinterestini»; as the natives whose cross-grained State they symbolize. All these places of niai'tial reputation were greeted as we passed, with cheers, the band meanwhile playing patriotic airs, for we saw waving above them all, the Banner of the Free. We were now abreast of the United States vessels-of- war at anchor, the blockading vessels released from service, the captured blockade runners, the Government transports, and two monitors scarcely clearing the water's edge. To each of these we shouted the news, which was received with wild hurrahs, and the rapid dipping of tlie colors. A unique and beautiful sight presented itself through the thickly gathering twilight, as we steamed past the men-of-war. At a given signal, the boys in blue sprang to the shrouds, ran up like so many squirrels, walked out upon the yard-arms, tilled all the rigging, and aspired even to the top-masts ; the?! turn- ing about, they waved their hats in exultation, and sent their ringing cheers across the water. The monitors lie nearest the city. It is easy to under- stand the contempt which the Rebels felt for the first craft of this description, as commanded by the gallant Worden, it bore down upon their vast lumbering monster, the Merrimac, in the waters of Hampton Roads. Their title, bestowed at tliat time, was certainly graphic, " A Yankee cheese-box atloat." And yet the " cheese-box" has poured contempt upon the '' wooden walls" of En- gland, and revolutionized the naval warfare of the woidd. 28 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. Darkness was now settling heavily npon us. We could dimly discern the Battery, with its row of once magnificent mansions, with the marks of shells upon them. Before ns lay the Cit,y, dead to all appearances. Half a dozen lights gleamed along the wharves, hut these were u]>on our own vessels. Not the flickering of a taper was to be seen in any other part of the City. It was the very darkness of desolation. We could see the crowds gathering upon the wharves and vessels. As we drew nearer, a voice was heard faintly calling through the gloonj. "W'hat's the news^' One of our company, a man of stentorian lungs, ))Ut- ting his hands to his mouth, roared forth, the thrilling intelligence. ''Lee has surrendered, with his whole army!" Again, the voice from the shore, faintly. "Have we got Lee!" "Yes!" thundered the spokesman, and then from the shore, uprose such a peal of huzzas, such a wild tumult of exultation as made the night vocal. The band on board the Blackstone, which lay at the wharf, struck up the " Star Spangled Banner," to which our band res- ponded "My Country, 'tis of Thee," then again from the shore, the "Red, White and Blue," and from the Oceanus, " Hail Columbia!" and enthusiasm indescribable reigned. As we came up to the anchorage near the wharf, we waited for a permit to enter the dock. Though Gen. Gil- more had not yet arrived from Hilton Head, an ofticer TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 20 from one of the U. S. steamers from yavaiinah, having a very creditable faith in onr loyalty, boldly cut red tape, and authorized our captain to swing up to the wharf. This done, a few eager members of the party were determined to go ashore. Much confusion ensned, bnt at length half a dozen succeeded in their purpose, and made their way to the Charleston ■ Hotel, where they announced the news to Gen. Wilson, and others. The wharf was covered with a motley gang of native negroes, contrabands, poor whites and rough-looking fellows, whose appearance was anything but an invitation to familiari- ty. The remainder of the party retired to the sup})er table to satisty an appetite whetted Ijy long delay. After supper, a meeting was called in the Ladies' (Jabin. Dr. Leavitt was appointed Chairman. Pie said that it would be regarded by all as eminently appropriate, after so many and signal mercies, throngh which we had been safely brought to our destination, to recognize the good- ness of Almighty God. Tlev. J. S. Corning was called upon to make a few remarks, befitting the occasion, at the conclusion of Mdiich Rev. J. Clement French was invited to offer a prayer of thanksgiving to God for his " eminent mercy to ourselves since we left New York, and his great loving kindness to our beloved country." Pleasant speeches followed. By 10 o'clock the party which had gone ashore, returned, bringing with them flowers which they had gathered from the gardens. 30 TRIP OF TIIK OCEANUS. Rev. Mr. Cnyler. lioldiiiu' uj) a Ixxjiiet of roses and mock oranges, made it the text for one of his most eiiec- tive addresses. (Japt. Hunt, of Brig.-Gen. Hatch's stalf. brought us the salutations of the officer commanding, and in liis name tendered us the freedom of the city, witli })i'omise of conveyance, and privilege of gathering all the flowers we might desire. Gen. Ilartwell, and Major Nutt. of the 155th Colored Hegt., who had just returned from a ten days raid into the interior of S. C. entertained us until midnight with accounts of their ad- ventures, and we reluctantly retired, that we might be refreshed for the visit to the city on the following niornino;. CHAPTEE IV. The morning of the ever niemorahle Friday. April 14tli, dawned at length. It is surmised that more of the passengers of the Oeeainis witnessed its rising sun than are wont to heliold that matin spectacle. For, when the writei', in the ])ale grey twilight, lirst stepi)ed forth upon Southern soil, the wharf was alive with the members of our party, and numerous gentlemen were returning from moonlight strolls through the city, their hands and arms laden with Howers and sprays of ex- quisite fragrance and verdure. A slight shower during the night had laid the dust and lent a delicious coolness to the air. Breakfast was ordered promptly at six o'clock. This preliminary business being disposed of, we were re- quested by our enterprising fellow-citizen, Mr. W. E. James, to bestow ourselves as eligibly as possible upon the decks of the steamer, to be instantaneously photo- graphed. Some of our tirst reflections in Charleston, were made at this moment. It had been announced that we should have until ten o'clock for rambling about the city, at which hour, pre- cisely, the transports would leave for Fort Sumter. The 32 TKIl' OF TIIK OCEANUS. majority of the coiiipaiiy were now waitiiia; for the con- veyances so kindl}' promised by Ca])t. Hunt, the evening- previous. He had stated that the authorities had im- pressed all tlie carriag'es in the citv for the convenience of tluMr Xortliern friends. About eight o'clock, an army ambulance, drawn bj a s[)an of sorry animals, by cour- tesy yclept hoi'ses, was discovered approaching upon the wharf. A passenger jocularly remarked, " Here come the carriages !" whereupon a pleasant laugh went round. Soon a line of sinn'lar vehicles was drawn up alongside the Oceanus, flanked' by sundry dilapidated carriages. carts, onmibusses, lish-wagons or whatever goeth upon four wheels or two, and drawn by mules, jacks and donkeys, or whatsoever goeth upon four legs or three. This was the livery of Charleston. And, surely enough, these were our carriages. With no little merriment these equipages were received, but the alacrity \vith w'hich the ladies and gentlemen stowed themselves within them, sho^yed conclusively how little they stood upon the ceremony or "order of their going." T^ot from any contempt for these vehicles, but ti'om the conviction that sight-seeing could be better accom- plished in ' the primitive way of traveling, we set out on foot, accompanied by a few friends, and turned oui" footsteps into the avenue known as the Battery, when we first began to realize what war had done for the in- famous city of Charleston. The Battery is a line and straight promenade, about a quarter of a mile in length, built directly upon the TRIP OF THE OCEANrS. 33 wateis of the harbor. A wall of ihasonrv rises^ six or seven feet to the hroad esplanade or pavement of stone, command! iiii; a maij:;niticent prospect of the Bay, and all the foi'titications therein. The street is withont pave- ment, the stones ha\'inu' been used for fortifications. Upon the op[)osite side of the street, stand the once elegant mansions of the "aristocracy." This Battery, and these residences, four years ago were teeming with thousands of surging, frantic Charlestonians, as they wit- nessed the l)oml)ardment of Fort Sumter. Every foot of space in the street and upon the promenade, was oc- cupied; every window, doorway, balcony and housetop was crowded with huzzaing Secessionists, men and women, glorying over the chivalry which pitted 10,000 armed men, under cover of strong ramparts, against seventy heroes, true to their country's tlag; shut up in the narrow enclosure of a Fort and cut off by the sea from ;dl possibility of retreat. Every shot from the doomed Sumter and from the surrounding batteries, as it went screaming to its woi'k of demolition, or fell hiss- ing into the sea, could be distinctly seen by the excited spectators on land ; ar.d as the fiery hail was poured without intermission for two days and a night, into that enclosure of about four acres, setting fire to the bar- racks and officer's quarters, and as the black smoke rose gloomily up to the heavens, or at night, was lit up by the flash of guns and the reflection of firelight, it must have seeuied to one. who could road God's providences in the light of a prescient fiith, as the pillar of lire 34 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. and cloud wliieli was destined to o;o before a race des- despised and enslaved, till it slionld lead them out into the promised land of liberty and peace. And throng'hout those two terrible days, as long as thej could serve a gun, the faitliful fellows under the command (jf the heroic Anderson, poured forth their detiant volleys, until reason and humanity combined to dictate a sun-ender. How changed now the scene I At the entrance of the Battery lies a rusty, dismounted gun upon the drhri-s of an old earthwork. The crowd has tied — God only knows whither. Desolation and ruin sit inonarchs of the place. Here we began to see the effect of Gen. Gil- niore's shells, thrown from a distance of five and a quarter miles from the city. The S])lendid houses were all deserted, the glass in the windows broken, the walls dilapidated, the columns toppled over. Some had escaped with scarcely a scratch, while others were battered into shapeless ruin. Holes have been made entirely through them, from two to six feet in diameter, roofs have been broken in, sleepers uptorn ami scattered, arches demol- ished, mantels shattered, while fragments great and small, of every description strew the floors. These were the man- sions of the ''''ArldocraGyy The style of arcliitecture is somewhat ])eculiar. ( )f many of the ediiices, the main body is from three to four stories in height, with rooms very large and high. Upon one side, immense verandahs or piazzas with heavy columns — a verandah for each story — and all luiviiii;- treselated floors, must have formed the most TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 35 breezy, sightly and delightful resorts for the enervate occupants. In one of these houses, a tiight of eighty marble steps conducts to the upper stories. All these residences are surrounded l)y broad gardens, abounding yet with the most luxuriant growth of trees and shrubs — the orange, the mock orange, the magnolia, the lilac, the hawthorn, the jasmine, roses and vines of every variety. The gates were flung wide open by order of the military authorities, and we availed ourselves of the permission to pluck and cai-rv away whatever floral trophies we desired. Many of these gardens give evidence yet of the great- est horticultural skill and taste, though at present, of course, sadly neglected. In some parts, the growth of vegetation, trees, shrubs, vines and rose bushes was so dense and tangled that we could not force our way through by the former paths. Here and there, romantic bowers of box and hawthorn appear. Some of the rose trees grow to an astonishino; heio;ht, and fairly bend with their wealth of blossoms. One rises from eight to twelve feet from the ground, bearing a rose of delicate golden tint, and of size surpassing our largest cabbage roses. And as the magniflcent flowers, in their rank pro- fusion, touch each other, and seem to melt together all over the top of the tree, they fully justify the name by which they are called "tlie cloth of goldy It was not yet the season for the orange and magnolia, and though we missed their s])icy fi'agrance, we were nearly com- pensated 'oy the lush and glossy greenness of tlicii" 36 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. leaves. Tlie l)lo?sniiis tion to the general rule. There were others, how- ever, in the doomed city, who were as loyal as he, but they were not in a position to utter so freely their sen- timents. And of all tlie affecting incidents or stories connected with the war, I scarcely know of one more touching than that durine; the lono- and frightful reign of the rebellion in that birth-place of our national troubles, a small band of loyal men were wont to meet occasionally in a secret upj)er chamber, where with closed doors they unfurled the flag of the Stars and Stripes, and in tears, drank to its perpetual success." The members of our company were everywhere seen emerging from these deserted houses and gardens, cross- ing and recrossing the streets, with boquets of fabulous iliniensions in their hands, or chaffering with some little 3 3s TRTP OF THK (KUOANFS. negro girl for a tlowei- of extraordinnry Ix'antv. V;\^<- ing oil. we coiiip to tlic Soutli Batterv, a iimcli hi'oader and more boaufifid |H'oiiiciiad(\ and re?^eiid)ling our city parks, witli trco of lii>ty growtli. wide walks, and par- terres witli tl Meeting and King Streets, which together with East l^>ay and Broad Streets, constitute the main business portion of the city, the traces of demolition become more numerous than u[)on the Bat- tery. Ghastly holes ap])ear in roofs and walls, iron doors and blinds are bent double, cornices are shivered, pavements are torn up and ploughed, making \-ery pre- carious footing after nightfall. Fragments of brick and stone lie scattered on every hand. Occasionally, a face TRIP OF TFTK OOEANUS. P>9 could be seen at tlie windows, glowerino^ sullenly at us as we passed, \n\t no indio-nity was offered, nor in any case threatened. Nei>'roes of every shade thronijed the streets; li'ray liairccl •' uncles" and turhaned "aunties,'' grinning and giggling children, and " picaninnies,'' all manifesting joy to see us, in their own pecnliar methods, from the (juich and not disgraceful curtsey, to the frantic tin-owing up of the arms, clapping of hands, and the fervent exclamations of '' De Lord bress ye, we so powerful glad yon've come!" Some of their welcomes were really affecting, and many a visitor that day lis- tened with emotion to their simple stories of suffering, and their rude but cordial exi)ression of o-reetina:. Advancing along these streets, we come to the district burned in 1861. That lire consumed nearly a fifth part of the city. These ruins, which no attempt has been made to rebuild, stand in all their deso- lateness, increased by the havoc of the bombardment. The tall chimneys, grim and charred, the (li]a])i dated walls, overgrown with moss, the cellars, rank with grass, weeds and thistles, the streets without pave- ment, and ankle-deep with sand, are a startling commentary upon the accounts with wliich we were fa- vored during the war, by the Charleston ])apers, to the following effect : " The Yankees continue to sliell the city, with about the usual consequences, of here and there a cln'mney to])pled ovei', and a negi'o badly frightened, but with no actual daniau'e." Now we saw that the entire lowei' 40 IRII' OF THK (k;kanits. and l)iisiiiess part of tlie city innst lia\c Iippii as de- sei'ted as t]\o i-uins <»f' ITprcidaneinii. All \hc ;^M'aii(l(H^s. wlio t1niiiite'roes irres])onsi- hly, coinini!; CNcry dollar out ol' the "■ iiiire(|uite(r' sweat and hlood of their hondnien, liave fled ])enni]es> and I'uined i)ito the interior, wliile in a strani;'e. yet ever riojliteons i-exolntion of tlie wheels of r(^ti'il)ntive justice, tliese sauK^ lu'i^-roes. now " trtH' as 1 am." nestle in the ancient lioines. ;nid jiold their fantastic juhilees in the self-sani(» halls, which once c^choed to their oppressor's revels. A very few liaxe retui'ued. and ])ossess their old homesteads, ha\in^ taken the oath of ;dlei>;iance. some lieartily and to i-ecei\"e the kindly ))rotection of our forces, hut the majority oidy throu<;-h fear, and to save what little ])ropcrty the Kehel g-ovei'nment had left them. ^Fany a Southern " ircntleman." who foui- years aii'(>. i'eioice(l in his thonsand>. is to d;iy a \aii"al>ond; or, if still I'etnaininii' in the eity, ]»rot*es-edly loyal, is a pan])er and l)eneti('iary, on a le\'el with the most wretched contraband who sue- for alms a> you ])ass. CoTicernino; the condition of the inhahitants, Rev. Mr. Cuyler, thus writes 1o the '^ Era/i(/e/if of ('harleston are hopelesslv liankrupt. We saw the cashicM' of the hank of ("harles- ton come up to the commissai'v's door, and i-eceive his pittance of hread and rice for his daily food, just as the TKIP OF THE OCEANUS. 41 refiii^ee uci^rocsi were ck>iiig a few doors off. We went through Secretai'v Memiuiiig'er's deserted and oiice splen- did mansion; tlie remaining contraband ttdd ns ' Massa Menniienger sent his money over to Euro[)e; he he up in Nort ('aroHna; he i»e rich to-chiy/ A gentk'mau in Charleston, says that lie saw in the books of a bank in Havana, the sum of slOd, ()(»(» in gold, credited to Jeff- ersoi.i Davis, {juv. Aiken, tohl me that if this were so, it must \)v the gitt of frienck, foi' saitl he, "Mr. Davis spent all his sakiry, and is considered ])oor.''"' j\ot oidy is Chark^ston aristocracy l)ankrupt, but most of tliem are deaxL (low Aiken said, sadly enough : 'our most wcfdthy young men eidisted, many of theju as privates, they are nearly all dead or in prison; South Carolina ha^ among her whites, nolxjdy left but old men and little boys." Truly tke iron has entered into CharlestonV proud s(jul, and she is the most blasted, blighted, brokendiearted desolation on this continent. Her cup of misery is tilled to the brim. I could not exult over her woeful wretchedness, although I felt that it was not one whit more than her stujien- dous sin has richly deserved. She has lived on the spoils of the plundered bondmen ; now her turn has f^ome for the bondmen to dwell in the deserted places of the slave-oci'at. liobert Small, tke fann»u> negro captain of the steand)oat '* Planter," (who has now a salary of Si,, sou as ker commander.) is able to mve bread to half the I)ank-])residents and brokers of Broad St.'' 42 TRIP OF THK OCKANUS. Upon some of the houses, \vs litmid )»hicar(l> to the folloMang ellbet : " Safe-o;uard — Protection is herel»y sc(l through the midst of the anchored fleet, upon one of Avhicli we counted over three hundred signals and bamiers, over all m-'f^^ TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 4^ of which, wherever (lirt[)hi_ve(l. waxed tlie unaiiproMchuMy beautiful and ever superior flag of " JStripes and Stars." P'or lialf an hour or more, we lay rocking U|)on tlie swell, while one and another transi)t>rt landed its load at the dock of the fort. We passed the time in study- ing- the storied old ruin. A /-i/'hi it is, though not so utter, as tlie imaginations of some artists have depicted it. It is built externally of brick, and tilled in with stone, sand and eai'tli. The walls are ilee})ly indented by the slK)t hurled against it; the top lines are uneven, and in some parts battered half way down tow^ards the fomidatioii. As it was terribly bondjarded, while in Rebel possession, and its walls gave way by day, by night the Rebels piled cylindrical baskets tilled with sand in all the chasms, and now they rise in rows or layers six or seven deej), nearly tt) the original height. Tlie casemates are tilled with the broken stone and brick, and the most of the j)ort-holes closed. Around it, upon the rocks, is a stratum of balls, exploded shells and comminuted brick, to the depth of several inches. The signal being given for the *' Golden Gate" to ap- proach, in five minutes we are at the landing; the same at which Wigfall, the self-appointed commissioner to prop(^se terms to Major Anderson, landed in 18H1, from a row-boat. On either side of the platform, upon which we debark, was a com})any of soldiers, with muskets shouldered and bayonets fixed — on the left, white, on the right, black, rivalling each other in soldierly bear- ing. We ascended to the top of the wall, by a fiight of 46 TRIP OK THK OCEANUS. tittv stc])s, piissed iiiidor an arbor entrance of ever- greens, walked across about thirty feet of earth and sand, and h)I tlie interior of tlie glorious ohl Ibrt aj*- pears in view — i;'h)rious yet. though in ruins. Im- mediately in the centre was the new liag-statt", sur- mounted by circular terraces of g)■as^, aiul these sur- mounted by iiunuMise conical shot and shell, planted with the points upward. 1 before the Hag-staff, was a large platform carj)eted with myi'tle. mock-orange, and evergreen boughs, the railings festooned and twined with the same. Four pillars, fifteen feet in height, rose from the corners of the platform, wound with the national coh:»rs, and knotted with orange M're;iths. while from their to[)s. graceful arches Avere sprung, ternniuit- ing together in the centre. Ui)on the very apex was a golden eagle, standing upon the flying flag. Jiows of substantial seats surrounded the platform, which we found already nearly fllled. The interior of the fort presented the appearance oi' a huge earthwork, for as the sides were slowly demolished, the shattered stones and sand fell doM'u in slanting grade towarcU the cen- tre, and now^ remain as they Avere found. Surnunuit- ing the parapet towards Charleston were six large guns, ready for the gi'and salute. The crowd now gathered densely, but were admirably disj)ose(l and managed by Col. Stuart L. Woodford, who was in charge of the exercises of the day. While waiting for the ;irrival of the orat(»r of the da_y with his party, the flag of the "Planter" was seen TRIP OF TUB OCEAN US. 47 al)ov^e the parapet, slowly waviiio- towards tlit' laiidinu-, and was greeted with cheers. Mr. Wni. B. Bradlnirv, taking a position at the foot of the tiag-statf, then led the whole multitude in singing his resonnding song, "■'' Victor;/ at JmsI,''^ which was followed by " Rally Round the FlagT A few minutes later, the passengers from the '' Arago '* were l)ronght to the landing, hv the "Delaware.''' and were seen crossing the sandy ])ara])et and descending the stairway, into the fort. As one and another fa- nnliar tace was discovered, signs of recognition were given, breaking out, in two or three instances, into ringing cheers. Upon the platform, salutations were exchanged for a few moments ; and, all preliminaries having been duly ai'ranged, the exercises of the day were begun and carried forward according to the pre-arranged programme, as will now 1)0 set forth. Breathless was the attention with winch the vener- al)le man was received, who was to offer the 1. Introhuctorn grayer. Rev. Matthias Han-is. Chaplain U. S. Aniiy, who made the pr;iyer at the raising of the Flag, when Major Anderson re- moved his command to Fort Sumter, Dec. 27, 1860, now stepped slowly to the front of the platform, uncovered his head, silvered with age, and while his thin locks streamed in the wind, read a brief, but appropriate prayer, with trembling voice, which he closed with much emotion, pronouncing a blessing upon the Hag of his fathers. 4S IKII' <•!-■ IIIK OOKANU.-. Rev. 11. S. Sion-s. Jr.. I). 1)., o\' P.rookl vn. N. Y.. then ad- vanced, and with sonurinis and solemn vc'u-c, read the tblJuwing: 2. .^election from tj)c |!salms. ('I'lic Mssciiilil.v iiinkiiii;' the re)^pol)^■e^*.) I'SALM 126. 1. W'licn the Li)i'd tui'ned aiiain tlie ca]>ti\it_v of Zion. we u ere like tiicni thai dream. '2. 'I'lien was our moutli Idled with laughter and our tongue with singing: then said they among the heathen, The Lord hath done great things tor tliem. 8. The Lord hath d(»iie git'at things t<)i- us. whereof we are glad. 4. Tmn again our eaptivity. <) Lord, a^; the sti'eams in the south. 5. They that sow in tears, shall reap in joy. 6. He that goeth tbrth and weepetli. bearing precious seed, shall doubtless eoine again with rejoicing, bringing his sheaves w ith him. I^SAI.M 47. L O elaj> yoin- hands ; all ye people, shout unto God w ith the voice ot" trimn[>h. 2. For the Lord most high is tei'ribie; he is a great King above all the earth. 3. He shall subdue the people under us. and the nations under our feet. 4. He shall choose on his niu-ovei-ed head. Ilis TRIP OF THE OOEANUS. .")1 erect, soldierly form was the (-eiitre of every ga/.e. For a moment, he sjtoke nut. He seemed wrestliiio- with intense emotion, as if living over again, in that moment, the terrible scenes of fonr years l)efore, and as if conscions that through the ten thousand eyes of tiiat vast assemblage, the whole nation was looking at him. At lengtli, with subdued voice and scarcely mastered emotion, he s])oke as follows: '' I am here my friends, my fellow-citizens, anhl ot Mne, rose shiwly u])\\'ard to its native air, and its folds were cauuht l)y the ocean breejce as in joyons welcome again, the whole multitude, citizens, soldiers, officers, that tilled the interior, and sat uiioii the sandy slo])es and para- pet of the fort, 1)V a s])ontaneous and irrepressible im])ulse. rose to their feet, waived hats and handker- chiefs with frantic exultation above their heads, and with one long, pealing, deafening, ecxtatic shcjut of triumph hailed the dear Hag until it touched the pe^dv. Senators, (lenerals, ('lergymen. Editors and Civilians upon the plattbrm. to whom the end of the halyards was ])assed, surged away ujxtn it as though their hands alone Mere lifting "Old (xlorv" to it place. The excited multitude wi'ung each other's hands in jov, huzzahed until they were hoarse, wept and laughed by turns, and when the song broke tbrth, " The star-spangled l>anner, () long may it wave ! O'ev the land of the free, and the home of the brave !" tears of gladness filled every eye, and flowed down cheeks unused to weeping, and in the seething jubi- lant thronii,- and melting weltering chorus of five thous- and \()ices, we seemed to discover no inapt type and f )reshadowing of the vast multitude which shall stand upon the sea of glass, having the harps of God, and sino'iiio- ■' (Ireat and mai'vellous are thy works. THE RAISING OF THE FLAG. TKIP OF THE OOEANUS. 53 Lord God Almighty ; just and true are thy ways, thou King- of Saints !" And the flag itself, as if true to its instincts and mission, flung its emblematic folds directly over the waters of tlie harbor, and towards the conquered city of Charleston. That cradle of the Rebellion cannot escape the domination of the " flag of the free heart's hope and home !" The instant the banner touched the peak, the six guns upon the parapet of Sumter, looking towards Charleston, pealed forth their detonations. Then, answering, from all the surrounding fortiflca- tions — Forts Moultrie, Ripley, Pinckney, Putnam, Johnson, Cumining's Point, Battery Bee — from every l)attery that took part in the bombardment of Fort Suuiter in 1861, and from all the vessels of war in the harbor, came the thunder of mighty cannon, in na- tional salute, until the " earth sliook and trembled," and the air grew dark with the gathering clouds of smoke which rolled their dun and murky volume over the harbor, shutting out from sight at length the city, and the lightning flash of the cannonade. There was a general stampede from the intei"ior, to the walls of the fort, that the sense of sight as well as of hearing, might be gratified. Those who were flrst upon this outlook describe tlie cordon of Are by which they were surrounded as something startlingly magniflcent. But those who reached the parapet later returned disap]Jointed, for it was only like looking 4 54 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. into a bank of foi;\ and tlie sand, stirred up b_y the recoil of Fort Sumter's guns, was driven into their eyes in l)linding- ch)uds. They were ghid to resume their seats, and at the expiration of the salute, which lasted ah(,ut half an hour, compose themselves to lis- ten to the next grand exercise n})on the ])rogramme. 6. C^c ilbbrcss, bg tin geb. icnrn ^larb fmdm. As Mr. Beecher came forward upon the plattV)rm, he was greeted with a round of cheers. This Ilev. gentleman, who has contended w^tli foemen of almost every kind, found two antagonists awaiting him, which, with his usual dexterity, he hatHed upon this occasion. Tliese were his niannscript, in detaclied leaves, and a strong northwesterly wind. At lirst onset, he removed his grey felt hat from Ins head, and held his mss. in his left hand. But the indis- crimiiuite wind toyed so familiarly with his iron-grey ear-locks, and played such fantasias n])on the thin leaves of his address, that he placed his errant locks again in confinement, and addressed himself with both hands to his refractory documents. He had conquered. Mr. Beecher read his entire oration, pausing once midway, to rest his overtaxed voice, while the band played a patriotic air. The address was carefully composed, and thoroughly considered. Clearness and force nuirked all its periods. Tlie principles laid down were emphatic, and almost exhaustive. The policy of the Government was sharply TRIP OF THE OCEAN US. 55 defined, and the feeHiig of the peo])le faithfully re- presented. In delivery, it lacked tlie peculiar niag'netisui of his less studied eifoi'ts, but his decision to commit all his thoughts to paper, commended itself to every hetter judgment. From l)eginnino- to end, he seemed deeply impressed with the consciousness that he was speaking, at least, semi-ofiicially, and that his utterances would be regarded, not only as the voice of the authorities at the Capital, and of all the nation, ])ut would i)ass from that hour into history. Bnt as a verbatim re- port of the entire address is here introduced, every reader of this volume may become his own connnentator. It has already been widely circulated, and universally read, and is included within these pages, not to give to it ]»nblicity, but that they may have, at least, one adornment, and because their humble record would be sadly incomplete without it. THE ADDRESS. On this solemn and joyful day, we agahi lift to the breeze, our father's flag, now, again, the banner of the United States, with the fervent prayer that God would crown it with honor, protect it from treason, and send it down to our children, with all the blessings of civilization, liberty and i-eligion. Terrible in battle, may it l>e beneficent in peace. Happily, no bird or beast of prey has been inscribed upon it. The stars that redeem the night from darkness, and the beams of I'ed light that beautify the morning, have been united upon its folds. As long as the sun endures, or the stars, may it wave over a nation neither enslaved nor enslaving. (Great applause.) Once, and but once, has treason dishonored it. hi that insane 56 TRir OF THE OCEANUS. hour, when the guiltiest and bloodiest rehelliou of tinu' liurled their fires upon this fort, you, sir, (tuniing to General Ander- son) and a small heroic band, stood within these now crumb- led walls, and did gallant and just battle for the honor and defence of the nation's banner. (A})}»lause.) In that cope of fire this glorious flag still peacefully waved to the bi-eeze abo^'e your head, unconscious of harm as the stars and skies above it. Once it was shot down. A gallant hand, in whose care this day it has been, plucked it frinii the ground, and reared it again, — "cast down but not destroy- ed." After a vain resistance, with trembling hand and sad heart, you withdrew it from its height, closed its «ings, and bore it far away, sternly to sleep amid the tumults of rebel- lion and the thunder of battle. The first act of war had beeun. The Iouq nii^ht of tour years had set in. While the giddy traitors whirled in a maze of exhileration, dim hor- rors were already advancing, that were ere long to till the land with blood. To-day you are returned again. We devoutly join with you in thanksgiving to Almighty God, that he has spared your honored life, and vouchsafed you the honors of this day. The heavens over you are the same; the same shores; morning comes, and evening, as they did. All else, how changed ! What grim batteries crowd the burdened shores ! W^hat scenes have filled this air and disturbed these waters ! These shattered heaps of shapeless stone are all that is left of Fort Sumter. Desolation broods in yonder sad city — solemn retri- bution hath avenged our dishonored banner ! You have come back with honor, who departed hence, four years ago, leaving the air sultry with fanaticism. The surging crowds that roll- ed up their frenzied shouts, as the flag came down, are dead, or scattered, or silent ; and their haltitations are desolate. Kuiii sits in the cradle of treason. Rebellion has perished. But, there flies the same flag that was insulted. (Great and prolonged ap- plause.) With starry eyes it looks all over this bay for that ban- ner that supplanted it, and sees it not. (Applause.) You that TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 57 then, for the day, were humbled, are here agahi, to triumph once and forever. (Applause.) \u the storm of that assault this glori- ous ensign was often struck ; but, memorable fact, not one of its stars was torn out, by shot or shell. (Applause.) It was a pro- phecy. It said : " Not one State shall be struck from this nation by treason !" (Applause.) The fulfillment is at hand. Lifted to the air, to-day, it proclaims, after four years of war, "Not a State is blotted out !" (Applause.) Hail to the flag of our fethers, and our flag! Glory to the ban- ner that has gone through four years black with tempests of war, to pilot the natfon back to peace without dismembei-ment ! And glory be to God, who, above all hosts and banners, hath ordained victory, and shall ordain peace ! (Applause.) Wherefore have we come hither, pilgrims from distant places ? Are we come to exult that Northern hands are stronger than Southern? No, but to rejoice that the hands of those who defend a just and beneficent government are mightier than the hands that assaulted it ! (Applause.) Do we exult over fallen cities? We exult that a Naticni has not fallen. (Applause.) We sorrow with the sorrowful. We sympathize with the desolate. We look upon this shattered fort, and yonder dilapidated city, with sad eyes, grieved that men should have committed such treason, and glad that God hath set such a mark upon treason that all ages shall dread and abhor it. (Applause.) . We exult, not for a passion gratified, l)ut for a sentiment victo- rious ; not for temper, but for conscience ; not as we devoutly believe that our will is done, but that God's will hath been done. We should be unworthy of that liberty entrusted to our care, if, on a such a day as this, we sullied oin* hearts by feelings of aimless vengeance ; and equally unworthy, if we did not devout- ly thank Him who hath said, Vengeance is mine, I tvill repay, saith the Lord, that he hath set a mark upon arrogant Rebellion, ineffaceable while time lasts ! Since this flag went down on that dai'k day, who shall tell the mighty Wf)es that have made this land a spectacle to angels and 58 TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. men 1 The soil has drunk blood, and is glutted. Millions mourn for millions slain; or, envying the dead, pray for oblivion. Towns and villages have been razed. Fruitfid fields have turned back to wilderness. It came to pass, as the prophet said : The snn ivas turned to darkness, and the moon to blood. The course of law was ended. The sword sat chief magistrate in half the nation ; indus- try w\as paralyzed ; morals corrupted ; the public weal invaded by rapine and anarchy ; whole States ravaged by avenging armies. The world was amazed. The earth reeled. When the flag sank here, it was as if political night had come, and all beasts of prey had come forth to devour. That long night is ended ! And for this returning day we have come from afar, to rejoice and give thanks. No more war ! No more accursed secession ! No more slavery, that spawned them both! (Great applause.) Let no man misread the meaning of this unfilding flag! It says, " Government hath returned hither." It proclaims in the name of vindicated government, peace and protection to loyalty ; hunnliation and pains to traitors. This is the flag of sovereignty. The nation, not the States, is sovereign. Restored to authority, this flag commands, not supplicates. There may be pardon, but no concession. (Great applause.) There may be amnesty and oblivion, but no honied compromises. (Applause.) The nation to-day has peace for the peaceful, and war for the turbulent. (Applause.) The only condition of sub- mission, is, to submit f (Laughter and applause.) There is the Constitution, there are the laws, there is the Government. They rise up like mountains of strength that shall not be moved. Thei/ are the conditions of peace. One nation, iinder one r/overnment, taithoiit slavery, has been ordained, and shall stand. Thei-e can be peace on no other basis. On this basis reconstruction is easy, and needs neither archi- tect or engineer. Without this basis no engineer or architect shall ever reconstruct these rebellious States. We do not want your cities nor your fields. We do not envy you your prolific soil, nor heavens full of perpetual summer. Let TRIP OF THE OCEANUS. 59 agriculture revel here ; let manufactures make evei-y stream twice musical ; build Heets in every port ; inspire the arts of peace with genius second only to that of Athens ; and we shall be glad in your gladness, and rich in your wealth. All that we ask is unswerving loyalty, and universal liberty. (Applause.) And that, in the name of this high sovereignty of the United States of America, we demand ; and that, with the blessing of Almighty God, ive will have ! (Great applause.) We raise our Father's banner that it may bring back better blessings than those of old ; that it may cast out the devil of dis- cord ; that it may restore lawful government, and a prosperity purer and more enduring than that which it protected before ; that it may win parted friends from their alienation ; that it may inspire hope, and inaugurate universal liberty ; that it may say to the sword, " Return to thy sheath^'' and to the plow and sickle, " Go forth i'"' that it may heal all jealousies, unite all policies, in- spire a new national life, compact our strength, purify our princi- ples, ennoble our national ambitions, and make this people great and strong, not for aggression and quarrelsomeness, but i^n- the 'peace of the loorld, giving to us the glorious prerogative of leading all nations to juster laws, to more humane policies, to sincerer friendship, to rational, instituted civil liberty, and to universal Christian brotherhood. Reverently, piously, in hopeful patriotism, we spread this ban- ner on the sky, as of old the bow was planted on the cloud ; and, with solemn fervor, beseech God to look upon it, and make it the memorial of an everlasting covenant and decree, that never again on this fair land shall a deluge of blood prevail. (Applause.) Why need any eye turn from this spectacle ? Are there not associations which, overleaping the recent past, carry us back to times when, over North and South, this flag was honored alike by all 1 In all our colonial days, we were one ; in the long Revolu- tionary struggle ; and in the scores of prosperous years succeed- ing. Wlien the passage of the Stamp Act in 1765 aroused the colonies, it was Gadsden of South Carolina that cried with presci- ent enthusiasm : " We stand on the broad common ground of 60 TRIP OF THE OOEANUS. those natural rights that -we all feel and know as men. There ought to be no New England man, no New Yorker, known on this continent, but all of us," said he, " Americans." That tvas the voice of South Carolina. That shall be the voice of South Carolina. Faint is the ech