t^l'^r ' '•• ■'./* *■ '% ^'^/^B 3 ^^ M y/A fi k'' 0'. 10^ ■>^: ¥ "^ A %,. I m y/3 I ^;/ ?^?S?^3l^g^^^^ THE BLUE BOOK ^fi,f"' '"" a<%^a8-%»;a: -. «-:■: . ^-^;;a^i»,^^^,. .4:^/./"'/;/^ :A'^H*fei; ^ ■:"? ■7^ ■a ■It '■¥ ...^ M Class _:iJ_tL 31 Book _.__CLij [■■- 1. r GopightN°_ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. _ ;,«^^ V^i^^B'St'S^ISf^"^*^- The Blue Book of Men's Tailoring Copyright CROONBORG SARTORIAL CO. New York-Chicago 1907 II IV GR^Miy EBITIOH °/ SUPREME SYSTEM FOR. PR.ODUCING MEN'S GARMENTS SCIENCE By Frederick T. Croonborg Published by the CROONBORG S^RTORIJiL CO, 1181-83 Broadway NEW YORK 183-189 Dearborn St. CHICAGO LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Cooles Received JUL 9 190? yj OooyiirM Entry ytCL^f 6'./ 907 ^LASS 'a. XXC, NO. COPY B. * ( -^ 1 Introduction When Eve, in the Garden of Eden, fashioned the first garment worn by one of the human race, there is no doubt that in weaving the leaves together she used some method which was to her mind the best way to produce the apron which was the progenitor of the multitude of garments which have followed it. Ever since the earliest times there have been "systems" in cutting, and the brightest minds, the most earnest students of the centuries have devoted their energies to finding a set of mathematical rules which would produce, for the making of garments and the fitting of the human form, an infalli- ble method. For the foundation of the science of garment cutting some sort of a system is necessary. The human body follows approximately the same lines, even when the variations of stature and curva- ture are extreme, and the average proportions of the different members may be reduced to a set of tables which will serve as a ground work on which to erect the superstructure which produces the perfect garment. In so many years of study there have been evolved many different methods whose goal was the same. Most cutters are firmly wedded to the arrangement which has secured for them the result they aim to achieve, and would in many cases destroy any other. Every one praises the bridge that supports him over the stream although there may be many weak points in it which would not bear the weight of others. The originator of a system of garment cutting, through the very study to prepare himself and the observation and trial to which he must subject his system, is eminently qualified to judge of the strong and weak points of any method, and if the personal element and the just pride in his own work could be eliminated, would usually be an impartial critic. But this is too much to expect from a mortal. Every system has its strong points, each its weak ones. The earnest pioneers in the science, who gave their best thought and work for the benefit of succeeding generations, are worthy of all honor, and to each student who has discovered a new and easier way to do a hard thing due credit should be given. The object of this work is, therefore, not to condemn previous efforts, but rather to acknowledge their value as pioneers, enabling others to take up the science where they left off, and thus, building block by block, the edifice will in the end be a beautiful and worthy one. If all men were cast in one mold, or if all were clothed with the same material, it would be easy to produce an ideal system, by which a cutter could with his square and tape line, following exact mathematical rules, construct garments which would be absolutely satisfactory to his customer. But as men are of different minds, of varying proportions, and choose to clothe themselves in a diversity of materials, the author by a simple system has laid the foundation which produces a gar- ment for the normal male figure, then shows how his pattern may be changed to meet the requirements of taller or shorter, larger or smaller than the average, or to cover defects of figure. Theory Justified We have heard of good as well as bad cutters. We have seen two persons working at the same cutting board with entirely different results. We have seen proportions used with good effect where direct measures have failed, and vice versa. We have seen cutters using long measures who were fairly successful, when others were absolute failures. Yet in response to all inquiries as to the reason for these varying observations the answer is — be sure to obtain proper balance in the garment. This will rectify the greater portion of the errors. Balance in garments seems to be the great center for arguments and theories in this profession and the diversity and confusion of ideas in this respect is astonishing. Therefore, it is a positive fact, as well as a necessity, that a cutter should thoroughly understand the scientific part of garment cutting as well as the artistic. Science and Jirt In going down to the root of these two words, we find that Science means knowing, while Art is simply doing. Art is the work or task, while Science is that which guides and regulates the work. Science shows us how things should be done and why they should be done. Science illustrates to us cause and effect (variations), and Science is, therefore, the fundamental part of garment cutting. Art can only reach excellence as a product of Science, and there is no true Art without the proper exer- cise of Science. Consequently, Art is doing; Science is knowing how. We cannot do things unless we know how to do them. Therefore, the secret of high achievements is to be found in Science or system. The Supreme System The Supreme System is based on the above stated principles, and is composed of Proportions and Variations (Science) coupled with a methodical way of taking and applying direct measures. Short or direct measures belong to the artistic part of our work for the reason that measures are more or less subject to judgment and anything that is a matter of judgment should be classed with the artistic part. Proportions Artists and painters always require a model from which to draw the fundamental part of their product. This is also true in Sartorial Art, and the ideal model for Supreme proportions is that of an Apollo, 5 feet 8 inches in height, weighing 135 pounds, which practice has demonstrated will measure 36 inches around breast. Furthermore, this subject is absolutely normal in every respect, including shoulder, circumference, etc. Therefore, in selecting a model for practice we choose the Contents. Page. INTRODUCTION 1 Theory Justified 2 Science and Art 2 Supreme System 2 Proportions 2 Height 3 Circumference 3 Exaggerations 3 Variations 4 Direct Measurements 4 Block Patterns 6 Individuality 6 Fashions 6 THE SQUARE 7 Diagram of the Square 9 The Tester 8 THE SYSTEM. How to Measure, 12 ; Diagrams 13 Sack Coats, Description 14 Sack Coat, Fashion Plate 15 Sack Coat, Systematical Outline, 16; Diagram.. 17 Sack Coat, Proportionate, 18; Diagram 19 RELATIVE HEIGHTS, 20; Diagram 21 Breast Measures by Weight and Height, Propor- tionate Table 22 Waist Lengths for Coats and Full Length of Coats, Proportionate Table 22 CIRCUMFERENCE 23 Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure, 24; Diagram. . 25 EXAGGERATION, Sack Coat, 26; Diagram.. 27 Sack Overcoat, Single and Double Breasted, 28 ; Diagram 29 Frock Coats, Single and Double Breasted, Fash- ions 31 Frock Coat, Outline for Body, 32; Diagram. ... 33 Frock Coat, 3-Button, Single Breasted, 34; Dia- gram 3ri Frock Coat, Double Breasted, 36; Diagram i7 Frock Coat, Corpulent, 38; Diagram 39 Frock Coat for Stout, 40 ; Diagram 40 VARIATIONS. Definition of Types, Illustrated 41 Incline 44 Head, Forward and Back 45 Stooping and Erect 46 Large and Small Blades 47 Sloping and Square Shoulders 48 Long and Short Neck 49 Sleeves, Proportionate 50 Sleeves, Stooping and Erect 51 Sleeves, High and Low Top bl DIRECT MEASURES. Direct Measures, Diagram 53 Application of measurement 55, 56, 57, 58, 59 Page. Hunchback, 60 ; Diagram 61 Overcoat, Fashion, Description 62 Overcoat, Fashion, Illustration 63 Box Overcoat, E.xaggerated, Single and Double Breasted, 64 ; Diagram 65 Overcoat, Single Breasted, Newmarket 66 Overcoat, Double Breasted Surtout 67 Overcoat, Inverness, 68 ; Diagram 69 Full Dress, Fashion, Description 70 Full Dress Fashions, illustration 71 Full Dress Coat 72 Full Dress Coat without strap and lapel seam, 72 ; Diagram 73 Tuxedo, or Dinner Coat, Fashion, 74; Diagram. . 75 Cassock, 76 ; Diagram 77 Direct Measures from Heights and Circumfer- ence, Proportionate Table 78 Theories and Practice 79 VEST SECTION— 81-91. Front lengths for Vests, Proportionate Table.. 82 Waist length of Vests, Proportionate Table. ... 82 Vests, Fashion, Description 83 Vests, How to Measure, 84 ; Diagram 85 Vests, Proportionate, Single and Double Breast- ed, 86 ; Diagram 87 \^ests for Stout Figure, 88 ; Diagram 89 \''ests. Double Breasted, with Lapel Front 90 Vests, Full Dress, with small waisted effect. ... 90 Vests, Double. Breasted, with separate lapel, 90; Diagram 91 Vests, Clerical 98 VEST VARIATIONS. Stooping and Erect 92 Large and Small Blades 93 Sloping and Square Shoulders 94 Long and Short Neck 95 Vests, Notched Collar for Corpulent Figure, 96; Diagram 97 TROUSERS SECTION— 99-124. Inseam of Trousers, Proportionate Table 100 Rise in Trousers, Proportionate Table 100 Trousers, Fashion Illustrations 101 Trousers, How to Measure, 102; Diagram 103 Trousers, Proportionate, 104; Diagram 105 Trousers, Peg Top 106 Trousers, Dress 107 Trousers, Corpulent, 108; Diagram 109 Long and Short Front 110 Open and Closed 110 Large and Flat Seat Ill Bow Leg and Knock Knee Ill Combinations of Variations. 112 ; Diagram 113 Combinations of Variations, 114; Diagram 115 Contents — continued. Page. Knickerbockers, with Cuff attached, 116; Dia- gram 117 Riding Breeches, 118 and 120; Diagram 119 and 121 Spring Bottom Trousers 122 Broad Falls 123 SpHt Falls 123 Overgaiters 124 Leggings 124 MILITARY, LIVERY, SPORTING AND OUT- ING GARMENT SECTION— 125, 167. UNIFORMS FOR OFFICERS U. S. ARMY. .126 Full Dress Coat, Description 126 Dress Coat, Description 128 Service Coat, Description 128 White Coat, Description . . 130 Overcoat, Description 130 Capes, Description 132 Full Dress Trousers, Description 132 Dress Trousers, Description 132 White Trousers, Description 132 Service Trousers, Description 132 Dress Breeches, Description 132 Service Breeches, Description 132 Evening Uniform, Description 134 Aless Jackets, Description 134 LTniforms for Enlisted Men, Description 134 Line Officer Full Dress, Dismounted, Illustra- tion 127 Social Dress Uniform, Illustration 127 Field Officer, Mounted, Illustration 129 General Officer, Illustration 129 MiHtary Overcoat, Illustration 131 Military Cape, Illustration 131 Dress Uniform, Illustration 133 Summer Uniform, Illustration 133 Chaplain, Illustration 135 Knight Templar, Illustration 135 Frock Uniform for Army Officers, Mounted and Unmounted, 138; Diagram 139 Military Blouse, 140 ; Diagram 141 Military Overcoat, U. S. Army, 142 ; Dia- gram 143 General Officers' Dress Uniform, 144; Dia- gram 145 Circular and Military Capes, 146; Diagram. 147 Regular Capes, 148 ; Diagram 149 Clencal Coat 150 Knight Templar Coat, 150; Diagram 151 Coachman's Coat, Single and Double Breasted. 152 ; Diagram . . .\ 153 Footman's Coat, 154 ; Diagram 155 Automobile Ulster, 156; Diagram 157 Chauffeur Sack Coat 158 Policeman's Blouse 159 Policeman's Frock Coat, 160; Diagram 161 Norfolk Jacket, 162 ; Diagram 163 Golf Coat, 164 ; Diagram 165 Riding Coat 166 Hunting Sack 167 INDIVIDUALITY SECTION— 169, 209. Page. Sack Coat Novelty 170 Outing Sack Coat, Double Breasted, 172; Dia- gram 173 Novelty Sack Coat, 1-Button, 174; Diagram. . . .175 Novelty Sack Coat, 3-Button, 176; Diagram. . . .177 Novelty Sack Coat, 3-Button 178 Manipulation of front for corpulent or stout fig- ure 179 Manipulation of Sack Coat Pattern 180 Flaring of Overcoat 181 Top Coat, Novelty, 182 ; Diagram 183 Box Overcoat, Single Breasted, 184; Diagram.. 185 Fur Coat, 186 ; Diagram 187 Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern, 188; Dia- gram 189 Frock Coat, 2-Button Novelty, 190; Diagram. . .191 Frock Coat, 1-Button Novelty, 192; Diagram. .. 193 Frock Coat, 3-Button Novelty, 194; Diagram. .. 195 Frock Coat, Double Breasted Novelty, 196; Dia- gram 197 Full Dress Coat, Novelty, 198; Diagram 199 Newmarket, Double Breasted Novelty, 200; Dia- gram 201 Collars and Lapels 202 and 203 Sleeve Cuffs, Fancy 202 and 203 Flaring of Skirt, Frock Coat 204 Vest, Novelty Dress 206 Vest, Double Breasted 207 Vest, Single Breasted, Novelty 208 Vest, Notched Collar 209 Vest, Full Dress 210 Dress Ethics 211 CLOTH CUTTING— 213, 220. Lay for 3-Button Frock Suit 214 Lay for Overcoat -I3 Lay for Sack Suit 21 5 Lay for Stout Men's Sack Suit 215 Lay for Trousers 216 Lay for Stout Men's Trousers 216 Lav for Double Breasted Vest 217 Lay for Notched Collar Vest 217 Fittings for Sack Coat 218 Fittings for Overcoat 218 Fittings for Vest 219 Fittings for Frock Coat 219 Fittings for Trousers 219 PRACTICAL TAILORING— 221. How to Make a Try-On 224 Canvas for Coat 225 and 226 How to Make a Pocket 227 How to Try On 229 How to Instruct the Maker 231 Coat Making 233 Vest Making 237 Trouser Making 238 \iii Preface The demand from the progressive members of the profession who desire to keep abreast of the latest developments in sartorial science and art, and the necessity for a permcinent record of the thought and work, both of the author, and of the thousands of earnest students, who, by the use of the Supreme System have attained success and have created many original ideas, has led to the publication of this third, enlarged, simplified and grand edition of the Supreme System of Garment Cutting. In presenting this volume to the public, the author believes that the following features of his work adapt it to the purposes for which it was designed. 1. It contains no more than can be mastered by the average intellect in the time usually given to the study and acquirement of the Art of Cutting. 2. It is thoroughly systematized. The order and development of subjects is thought to be logical and practical, and the arrangement of topics especially adapted to the best methods of Artistic Drafting. 3. It is written and illustrated in accordance with modern theories and practice, and no pains or expense have been spared in the attempt to make it fully represent the present needs of the Art, so far as human ingenuity and deep study can obtain. In addition to his efforts to make these features prominent, the author has not forgotten that a student will succeed best when required to learn one thing at a time. He has, therefore, as far as practical, presented each subject separately and in natural order, like the successive steps of a ladder, leading to a height from which the student may have a clear and comprehensive view of the Science of Garment Cutting, and at the same time, let us hope, reach that Acme of Artistic Skill, which THE SUPREME SYSTEM makes easily accessible to those who desire to give serious thought and honest application to these pages. THE AUTHOR. i.\ Inspiration— ''All Things Come To Him Who Hustles While He Waits Advice To The Student. The system set forth in this volume and its results are based on the experience of eighteen years' practical application, previous to its publication, in high-class merchant tailoring, not alone by the author but by hundreds of his successful students as well. The experience gained during these years of practice has revealed many improvements, and it is with the fullest confidence that the best results aimed at in high-class tailoring can be obtained from this system upon its proper application that I offer this volume to its readers. Personally I believe in man and have faith in his capacity to do just as he wills. I further believe that hesitation is a detriment to one's own interests and the creator of unnecessary thoughts which sap one's energies and waste one's brains. Therefore, the best advice I can give the student begin- ning the study of this volume is to have faith in the system you are about to learn. Confidence is not only valuable, but an absolute necessity in order that a student may maintain steady progress toward thorough qualification in men's garment cutting. The practical value of this volume lies in the fact that a realization of sartorial truths will make you stronger in your work. The right mental attitude is very necessary to success in this masterly yet simplified subject. Further, in addition to confidence in the system, you must have confidence in yourself so that you will be able to thoroughly absorb the details herein set forth. Be perfectly hon- est with yourself and honest in your application of the system, and, while the details are numerous, you will find that the farther you proceed the more interesting the subject will become. With confi- dence incorporate perseverance, and, while it must be admitted that it is not an easy task to learn to be a cutter, it is a gradual process from elementary to advanced attainments and qualifications. In order to encourage perseverance in the student, the first part of the work has been drawn up with scientific simplicity, for it would be a great mistake to study more than one thing at a time. It would be unwise for the student to branch off into disproportions or direct measurements before the elementary portion had been completely mastered. Therefore, the proportionate draft should be gone over and over again until its principles have been thoroughly acquired, and in this way, having secured the principal points, it will be a surprise to the student to recognize in the following drafts the same principles incorporated, while the subject of the different heights, attitudes and dispropor- tions, as well as direct measurements, will each in the proper order be thoroughly mastered. FREDERICK T. CROONBORG. original 36-inch normal. A proportionate subject measures 4 inches less at the waist than around the breast, and 1 inch more over the seat than over the breast. The measures for the ideal model for the Supreme System are, therefore, as follows : Height, 5 feet 8 inches. Weight, 135 pounds. Circumference of breast, 36 inches. Circumference of waist, 32 inches. Circumference of seat, 37 inches. In drafting we use the regular tailoring square (illustrated on page 9.) One side of this square shows the gradations and fractions of inches and the other side the full inches. By means of these divisions on the square we find the proportions for our ideal model, and by the same method we are able to produce any kind of garment with promptness and exactness. The beginner should first of all familiarize himself with the square. Inasmuch as the various divisions on the square are applied in the Supreme System, it should be thoroughly studied. Further, the application of divisions is so regulated that each pattern will have uniformity, and formulate the gradations of patterns in the different sizes, therefore necessitating that these divisions must be absolutely applied accord- ing to instructions, or else the grade will be lost. Height While 5 feet 8 inches in height is the ideal model, we constantly come in contact with the tall or short man. This, however, in no way changes the application of the divisions, but necessitates additions and deductions to depth of scye, waist length, length to seat, and in all probability also to the length of the garment. (As per instructions and illustrations on pages 20 and 21.) Circumferen ce While 4 inches is the normal difference between breast and waist, it must be understood that increase and decrease of waist must be treated in the manner illustrated and instructed on page 23. For corpulent on pages 24, 25, 38 and 39. For stout on page 40. For slim on pages 18 and 19. These illustrations and instructions should be given attentive consideration, as in corpulent and stout there are varying points relative to both circumference and depth of scye ; also, for the reason that they give the student a thorough understanding of the definition of slim, normal, corpulent and stout. Exaggerations Exaggeration is the scientific resource for enlargement of patterns. More or less exaggeration is incorporated in order to obtain the different effects the style demands. If half the cutters knew how and when to exaggerate they would have less trouble, and thousands of dollars would be saved in the busheling department. By the use of exaggeration the cutter is able to produce a coat as large in circumference as he desires, while the garment still clings to the neck, the goods drape propor- tionately around the body ; and, the armhole is placed in the right position and at the proper height. (See pages 26 and 27.) Variations Under this head we come in contact with many subjects that at first seem to be most complicated, but upon application to the direction and instruction from numerous illustrations on this subject, after study of cause and effect from the original draft, it will become a most simple, reasonable, as well as scientific, way of variations for the different attitudes and subjects a cutter is called on to fit, therefore, by giving attention and proper study to the types of forms (as shown in illustrations on pages 41-43), and fixing in one's mind the regular code of the types, and in that connection studying the mathematical drawing of variations of coats illustrated on pages 45-49, it will soon be plain that by applying the divisions in the usual way it makes it possible to produce a good pattern for any size or form of type, whether it be slim, stout, or corpulent, stooping or erect, head forward or backward, sloping or square shoulders, long or short neck, etc. However, careful study of attitudes is very essential so as to be sure that in actual practice they have been stipulated in the right direction. It is to be noticed that by working the ideal model in the various directions stipulated it will develop striking similarity in all patterns, indicating that, while the pattern has been swayed in various ways for the different types of forms, increases or de- creases of circumference, and different heights, it retains the symmetry of the original, insuring a well balanced garment for any form or type of man. Therefore, caution should be exercised by the cutter in stipulating the type, as it will be surprising to see how well a proportionate coat will fit most men of the same size. The alteration in most cases would be slight, even where the cutter may have stipulated the third degree of deformation of a certain type. It is not advisable to find fault with the form of the subject, and unless there is a positive inclination of a certain type, cut a proportionate pattern subject to height and circumference. 'Direct Measurements I am a firm believer in fundamental principles, consisting of Supreme proportions. Height, Weight, Circumference and Variations for the different types of men as a regulation for obtaining symmetry and correct balance in men's garments. In discussing direct measures, what has been stated heretofore in this introduction in connec- tion with illustrations and instructions pertaining to fundamentals, contains the principles of the Sys- tem proper, inasmuch as it comprises the scientific part of garment cutting. Direct measures is a methodical way of applying measures over said proportions, variations, heights, circumferences, etc. In connection with these proportions, direct measures are of value, but direct measures cannot be relied upon, as a foundation in themselves, inasmuch as in applying measures to any part of the body judgment must be exercised to the utmost. There are, no doubt, experts who have by long experience accustomed themselves to particular methods, enabling them to take measures with great exactness, but that proves only their own skill. The fact remains that the great majority of cutters cannot handle the customer with the manner of an expert nor secure measures that are even approximately correct. No material progress in measuring has been made during the past twenty-five years and in view of my personal study on this subject for years, I have come to the conclusion that the object the cutter should have in view in cutting a garment should be to cut it so it will fit and clothe the customer gracefully. I am perfectly aware of the fact that it is an utter impossibility to be successful with direct meas- ures unless combined with the fundamentals, proportions and variations. The principal reason for this is that the form will not measure the same for five consecutive seconds ; a deep breath, a shifting of the weight from one foot to the other, or any other slight move- ment on the part of the customer not only changes his size, but so varies the relations of the points to each other that absolute measurements are unattainable. This, together with the difference of undergarments, renders accuracy out of the question. Any cutter who has ever placed a square under the arm of a customer knows very well that a slight pressure will easily make a difference of one-fourth to one-half inch, and who is the cutter who can measure the depth of scye, blade and strap twice alike with a tape and square where pro- portions are not stipulated to guide him. Young cutters are especially inclined to adopt methods which require many superficial measurements, and are prone to believe they should have a knowledge of anatomy to enable them to succeed. They strain their eyes in an endeavor to take measures to the sixteenth of an inch, and are happy so long as the measures are fractional. But in spite of all these uncertainties in measurements, direct measures are of great value in connection with proportions and variations, but they must be taken and applied in the manner de- scribed in the various diagrams on how to take them and WHEN and WHERE to apply them. It will then be readily seen that direct measures should not be used without fundamentals, which only goes to show that there is no true art without the proper exercise of science. For these reasons, in the Supreme System will be found a complete combination of Supreme proportions, Variations, Heights, Circumferences, Exaggerations and Direct Measures, hence the name the GRAND EDITION of SUPREME SYSTEM. Block Patterns Any man who thoroughly understands the system of drafting, measurements and applications, as well as exaggerations, and has the principles of variations, etc., can use block patterns with as much success as by drafting. This is especially true in regard to sacks and overcoats. It is also true that block patterns are safer to use than uncertain drafted patterns. The block, of course, would be used as a model, subject to variations and measurements, and the fact is that a good block in the hands of a proficient cutter will give the same results as drafting. It must, however, be understood that no man who does not thoroughly understand System and its resources can intelligently use block patterns. Individuality By Individuality, I mean the quality of being distinct or personal, and the extent to which a cutter is individual in his productions depends entirely on his artistic ability in connection with his scientific and practical knowledge of tailoring, as in the individuality of his productions he displays his special and independent personality. Toward this end the exaggerations and manipulations of patterns and a thorough knowlege of practical try-ons and draping act as his resources. These re- sources, in connection with the development of the latest styles, such as correct shoulders, placing of vents, the different positions of pockets, as well as collars and lapels, cuffs on sleeves, various lengths and the general effect of the prevailing styles enable a cutter to produce not only stylish garments but to display his own individuality as well. Another thing which should be given thorough consideration in this respect is the cutting and making of the canvas of the coat, as the canvas should be changed as often as the style demands and for the different individual effects and shapes of fronts. For this reason the canvas is a most im- portant factor in the production of individual and stylish garments. (See the Treatise on Practical Tailoring; also, study the lecture on "How to Make a Try-on and How to Try on.") Remember it is the cultured public which is to be gratified, and Individuality is the interpretation of Sartorial Art which embraces more than mere system. Fashions The style of yesterday, which may never return, would be useless, and the style of tomorrow would be impossible to foretell. For this reason no account has been taken of the fashion of the future in this volume, but every style, past, present, and future, is based on the scientific and artistic principles set forth in this work, and the fashion cuts adorning the pages of this work are, therefore, of the standard type of the time of its publication to serve as a foundation for whatever may be the style in the future. They are also valuable as an illustration of the finished product of the various diagrams and instructions, and, further, with the view of illustrating the regulations of dress for dif- ferent occasions, thereby serving as Dress Ethics. The Square Besides the yardstick, tape and chalk, the only device used in drafting patterns for garments is the square, and the square is the most essential device, for the reason that upon the various divisions illustrated on it, we find fractions of inches, which when put in practice, enable us to find the various proportions of the different parts of patterns, as well as enabling us to produce any size desired. Therefore, the square must be studied thoroughly by all persons whose ambition it is to begin the study of drafting, as without a knowledge of this square and its various divisions, nothing can be accomplished in drafting. A full knowledge of this square must be acquired first of all. In this connection it is well to remember that in producing patterns for garments of any kind the cloth is always laid double in cutting, while one pattern is used for both sides. For example: The front and back part are pro- duced, laid on double cloth and so cut out for both sides. Therefore, use only half of the breast or waist measure in drafting patterns. For example : If a person measures 40 breast, 20 is the figure on the divisions which is used, or if a person measures 36 breast, 18 is the figures on the various divisions of the square which is used, and so on. Now, let us take a general examination of the square illustrated. Notice the divisions on the long arm of the square, starting from the right angle. You will first find the twenty-fourths ; next, the twelfths ; then the sixths, and again the thirds, and finally the two-thirds of inches, all on the long arm of this square. Be sure you fix in your mind just where these divisions are located. Next, make a thorough examination of the short arm of the square starting with the right angle. First are the sixteenths, then the eighths, then the fourths, and finally the half inches on the short arm. Be sure you have fixed in your mind just where these divisions are located on the short arm of the square. j^a>** Next, take the regular square and study it together with the illustration. Be sure you thoroughly understand and know where to find the various divisions of inches. Therefore, study both illustration and regular square until you are satisfied that you have absorbed and know it thoroughly. Remember, in drafting you are using only one-half of the regular measure for the reason that you draft only one pattern and the pattern is laid on double cloth for cutting. The Tester To Draft Draw lines A-1, and A-L at right angle. The difference between the figures from A down to 1 is J/2 in. Proceed to square out the lines as shown in illus- tration from A down as indicated from -iS to 24. From A to L is % on the divisions of 48; 24 on the square. From 1 to 9 is % on divisions of 24 ; 12 on the square. Rule a line from L to 9. From A to H is ^ on divisions of 48 ; 24 on the square. From 1 to 8 is 3^ on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from H to 8. From A to G is % on divisions of 48 ; 24 on the square. From 1 to 7 is I3 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from G to 7. From A to F is '4 on divisions of 48 ; 24 on the square. 1 to 6 is J4 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from F to 6. A to E is 1/6 on divisions of 48 ; 24 on the square. 1 to 5 is 1/6 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from E to 5. A to D is 3/^ on divisions of 48; 24 on the square. 1 to 4 is 34 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from D to 4. A to C is 1/12 on divisions of 48; 24 on the square. 1 to 3 is 1/12 on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from C to 3. A to B is iV on divisions of 48 ; 24 on the square. 1 to 2 is iV on divisions of 24; 12 on the square. Rule a line from B to 2. Now proceed to test the various divisions illus- trated on the square from 48 to 24, as in this tester you have all the divisions applied in the production of the various sizes for all kinds of garments, from the large man measuring 48 to the little boy measuring only 24 around the breast, waist, or seat. For ex- ample, try size 40-36, etc., for the various divisions, in fact, try all sizes for a better understanding of the different divisions. H W 1-3 > t-H o en O C > > 2i O H w M W The Ideal Model for Supreme System Hoiv to Measure Those whose ambition it is to become successful cutters should give thorough study to the art of measuring. They should further train their faculties by observing the different types, shapes and forms of men; and last, but not least, in taking short, or direct measures, exercise the utmost care, as exactness of these measures is hard to obtain. Measurements are, therefore, divided into three different sections. The first consists of length and circumference in connection with heights. The second consists of the definition of types, forms and attitudes. The third section is that of Short, or Direct Measures, sometimes called Cross Measures. We will, therefore, proceed to give Measurements in the manner in which the illustrations and instructions are arranged in this volume by now taking the Fiist Section under consideration, and as many measures as are necessary in order to produce a propoitionate coat, subject to height and circumference. Practice has demonstrated that taking the length of the coat and width cf back before a cus- tomer removes the garment will give the best satisfaction, for the reason that the old coat acts as a foundation for these measurements, and the cutter by taking these measurements over same can better distinguish whether the old coat is too long, or too short, and how rr uch, thereby obtaining more correct length for the new coat. For the same reason the width of the back is also taken in the same manner. (See Plate No. 1.) Next, after the coat is removed place the regular tailoring square at the top of shoulder and have the short arm of square rest en the end of the right shoulder — the long arm of square across the back; hold same even with left shoulder end witl: your left hand and with a piece of chalk in your right hand mark off point Z, as illustialed in Plate 2. Fix the point of the neck by laying on the tape to the back of the neck, allowing both ends of same to run to the front. Turn the tape under the arms and across back, holding both ends of the tape together with the left hand, and with a piece of chalk in the right hand mark points A and B as shown in illus- tration in Plate 2. Next remove the tape from the back of the neck and place tape around breast, and register the figure of circumference of breast. Next, fix the waist line by placing the tape around the hollow of the waist, holding the tape together with the left hand, and with the piece of chalk in the right hand mark off the waist line, or point C, Plate 2, at the same time register the circum- ference of the waist. Next, place the tape around the most prominent part of the seat, hold the tape together with the left hand, marking with the right hand point D, Plate 2, and register seat measure. Plate No. 3 illustrates the front view of Plate No. 2 with a square properly placed under the arm and tape attached for the measuring of sleeve length from H to G as shown, as well as illustrating the manner in which the tape line should be placed when breast, waist and seat measure is taken. Next, if possible, ascertain the correct height and weight of the customer. While the length of coat and width of back will in proportions be given from height and circumference, these two measures were registered first with view of applying in connection with said proportions. The measures so far taken should be entered in the measuring books as follows: Length 29 inches Seat 37 inches Width of back 14 inches Sleeve length 1854 inches Breast 36 inches Height 5 feet 8 inches Waist 32 inches Weight 135 pounds This is the First Section of Measurements. For the Second Section see Definition of Types, and for the Third Section see Direct Measures. i How to Measure MMl(i/i P/a/€ Z. Flc^tcL PLddc 3. The Sack Coat Every man in America, multi-niiilionaire as well as laborer, wears a sack coat. It is the great Ameri- can business coat, and in other countries is recog- nized as the badge of the American. That it is roomy and comfortable, loose enough to allow free movement, and because it has no tails to get in the way. is perhaps the reason for part of its vogue. Then it is plentifully supplied with pock- ets, which make it extremely convenient to the busi- ness man. Although from year to year slight changes are observable in the fashion of sack coats, the general design has remained unchanged for many years. It grows shorter, then longer, then short again. It is loose and boxy, then body-litting and has many varia- tions between these extremes. For ten years past the sack coat has been half fitting, and for six years the padded shoulders have been more or less popular. The straight front has been in vogue for about the same time. ■In the change from the wide shoulder, it would seem that logically narrow shoulders will be the next distinguishing mark in favor. In ])n)( hieing a sack coat there are three points to be reiuembered, for upon these depend its popu- larity. It must be roomy and comfortable, yet at the same time witiiout any trimming or finishing which will nl>struct free movement, and have plentv of pockets. The different models of sack coats are all built on the same general design, the double and single breast, the placing of the pockets, buttons, cuff's, etc., the cutting of fronts, collars and lapels, express only the individuality of the tailor, the personal taste of the customer, or the exactions of fashion. Sack Coats REGULAR MODELS OF SACK OR BUSINESS COATS Systematical Outline for Sack Coat Measures: Breast 36 in. Seat Waist 32 in. Heig-ht ... .0/ in. ,5 ft. 8 in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to Vis % 'jreast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is ^ of total height plus >2 in. A to D is i/H of height plus 1 in. A to E is 3'2 height minus 5 in. By applying measure it will be found that from A to B is 9 in. A to C is- \7y2 in. A to D is 2Zy2 in. A to E is 29 in. for this particular height and circumference. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is 1/3 breast measure. F to H is \y, in. Square up and down from H. B to S is 3/ breast measure. S to G is 33/2 in. ■ Square up and down from G. G to W is 1-6 breast measitre. Square up from W. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2J4 in. Square down from I. X to O is 1-6 breast measure. Rule a line from Q to I. A to T is 1-6 breast measure. T to R is 34 in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from point K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. Q to P is 1-6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. These are the principal points for normal, and should be studied first of all. 16 Systematical Outline for Sack Coat I N W C S U H F C D DIAGRAM NO. 1. liegulatlon Sack Coat — continued Measures: Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Seat 37 in. Heis:ht 5 ft. 8 in. To Draft First la_v up all points as described in outline, then continue as follows : C to M is Yo in. Square down from M. Rule a line from \ to M. H to 15 is 1-12 breast measure. Rule a line from B to 15 and out. 15 to 2 is ^ in. 3 to 4 is J4 in. K to 11 is J4 in. Add Yf, in. to top of back at A and shape back as per solid lines in illustration, from A to R, R to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 4, 4 to 10 and down. L to is J4 waist measure. Applv waist measure from 4 to M and to 8. From 8 to 3 is ZY^ J"- Apply seat measure on % of the divisions from 10 to 14 and U to 10. From 10 to 12 is 2 in. X to Y is same distance as from R to 11 minus V& in. Reduce side of front part Y^ '"• '^^ point 2. Shape as shown in solid lines of illustration from 2 to 3, 3 to 12 and down. Sweep back from 5 to 6, using point 2 as a pivot. Sweep forward from point 6 to 16, using point X as a pivot. Shape armhole from Y to 2 as illustrated. Shape shoulder as shown in diagram from Y to X, and shape neck hole from X to P. Make width of lapel 3 in. from 18 to 17. I to 13 is \Y2 in. to 19 is \Ya in. Extend 1 in. of length at point 16. Now shape from point P to 17, 17 to 13, 13 to 19 and down to 16. Shape as shown in illustration from 6 to 16. The pockets are found % of the sleeve length, from G down ; pockets for this size of coat are 6V2 '"• This is the body of a single-breasted normal sack. For double-breasted sack note the dash lines at front. From I to 25 is 3^ in. From to 26 is 33^ in. ■ From 16 to 20 is 3K- in. Notch at top is 3 in. Shape front as shown by dash lines. Take out a V of ^ in. at point P and you have a normal double-breasted sack. For small-waisted sack : Take out of center seam at point M ^^ in. for every inch the man is less than normal. Shape from V down as shown by dotted lines. Apply waist measure from 4 to M and to 7. 7 to 9 is 2>Y2 in. 9 to 3 is the amount to be reduced, which is taken out in an underarm V as shown by dotted lines from armhole to pocket. Extend width of forepart at point 2 Y^ iii-> as shown by dotted lines, which is allowance for two seams used for underarm \'. This finishes draft for small waist. Collar Extend crease line from 13 up to 23. 17 to 27 is 1>4 in. 22 to 2i is the stand of 1 in. 27 to 22 is the same distance as from A to R and X to 27. Shape from 22 to 27. 23 to 24 is 2 in. 27 to 21 is 1J4 ill- Shape from 22 to 2Z, 23 to 24, 24 to 21, 21 to 27, as shown. Regulation Sack Coat — continued DIAGRAM NO. 2. 19 In variation of heights men are divided into three classes, viz. : — tall, normal and short. (See illus- tration Relative Heights.) In each of these classes we may have several degrees of the same type. As a rule we find difficulty in impressing the student with an understanding of the necessity of height as a positive guide to regu- late and shape the garment to the figure. A knowledge of the height of the customer is of great prac- tical value to a cutter, not only as a guide to regulate the length of the garment, but also to obtain the proportionate station relative to heights, such as slope of shoulder, depth of scye, waist length, length to seat, as well as the average length of the garment, so as to avoid the possibility of cutting a long coat for a short figure or a short coat for a tall man. (See il- lustration Relative Heights.) A is the neck point, Z is slope of shoul- der, B depth of scye, C waist length and D length to seat. Suppose the height to be 5 ft. 8 in. as the middle figure of Relative Heights illustrate. Five ft. and 8 in. is a total of 68 in., which is the normal height of a man. One- eighth of 68 is 8>4 in. Add to this Yz in. and we have 9 in., which is the total amount of depth of scye for a subject 5 ft. 8 in. in height and 36 breast. Then again divide the total amount of the depth of the scye into three equal parts, and 1-3 of this amount is the propor- tionate slope of shoulder. (See il- lustration Relative Heights.) The circumference of breast reg- ulates the depth of scye because the arms and muscles graue m circum- ference in proportion with the cir- cumference of the body, and the normal depth of scye is, therefore, found by taking 1-3 of the breast measure plus 3 inches for the nor- mal height of 5 ft. 8 in. (See Dia- gram 3, AB.) Heights 5' 4" 56" 512' 2() Heights The fact remains that the depth of scye is approximately ]/& of en- tire height of figure, and in vary- ing from the normal height 34 of an inch is added to the depth for every inch the subject is taller than 5 ft. 8 in., and ]4, in. is deducted from depth of scye for every inch the subject is shorter than 5 ft. 8 in. (See Diagram 3, Point A, nor- mal, and variations for 5 ft. 4 in. and 5 ft. 12 in., as shown by dash and dotted lines.) Illustrating that for 6 ft. there is 3^ in. addition to the depth of scye and for 5 ft. 4 in. there is lA deduction from the nor- mal representing 14, of an inch for each inch he is taller or shorter than the normal. The natural waist for a frock L IS'* t 5" D ■5-ir .a'*" E Ji'^" DIAGRAM NO. 3. coat is ]^, of the entire height. For fashionable waist add IJ^ in. Waist length for sack coat is J4 of the entire height plus Yz in. (See Diagram 3, Point C, for nor- mal, dotted line for 5 ft. 4 in., and dash line for 5 ft. 12 in.) The length to seat is 1-3 of the entire height plus 1 in. (See Diagram 3, Point D, for normal, dotted line for 5 ft. 4 in., and dash line for 5 ft. 12 in.) The average length of sack coat is y2 of the height minus 5 in. (See Diagram 3, Point E, for nor- mal, dotted line for 5 ft. 4 in., and dash line for 5 ft. 12 in.) The average length of a S. B. frock is half the height plus 2 in. The average length of a D. B. frock is 3^ of the height plus 6 in. Average length for a full dress coat is Yi of the height plus 5 in., and the average length for an overcoat is half of the height plus 8 in. While style governs the length of the garment, this division of heights will serve as a guide to regulate the length of the gar- ment, which should be graded according to the height of the customer. Illustration Relative Heights shows the position and in- cline which is calculated as the neck point, therefore A to Z is shoulder slope, A to B depth of scye, A to C waist length and A to D is length to seat. By a careful study of the illus- tration Relative Heights, and the Diagram No. 3, and following out the instructions herein stipulated and thereby illustrated, will make the student conversant with relative heights as well as the necessity of incorporating the same in produc- tion of patterns. Proportionate Table of Breast Measures by Weight and Height HEIGHT Weight 5-2 5-3 5-4 5-5 5-6 5-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6-ft. 6-1 6-2 100 34 33f 33* 33} 33 32f 32* 32} 32 31} 31* 31} 31 105 34* 34i 34 33 1 33^ 33} 33 32} 32* 32} 32 31} 3U 110 35 34i 34* 34} 34 331 33i 33} 33 32} 32* 32} 32 115 35* 35i 35" 34J 34* 34} 34 33} 33* 33} 33 32} 32^ 120 36 35f 35* 35} 35 34| 34* 34} 34 33} 33* 33} 33 125 36J 36i 36 35a 35* 35} 35' 34} 34^ 34} 34 33 i 33* 130 37 36f 36* 36} 36 35f 35* 35} 35 34} 34i 34} .34" 135 37* 37i 37 36f 36* 36} 36 35} 35* 35} 35 34} 34^ 140 38' 37f 37* 37} 37 36 f 36* 36} 36 .35} 35* 35} 35 145 38^ 38} 38' 37f 37* 37} 37 36} 36* 36} 36 35} 35J 150 39 38f 38^ 38} 38 371 37* 37} 37 36} 36* 36} 36 155 39^ 39i 39 38f 38^ 38} 38 37} 37* 37} 37 36} 36* 160 40 39f 39^ 39} 39 38f 38* 38} 38 37} 37* 37} 37 165 40* m 40 39f 39* 39} 39 38} 38* 38} 38 37} 37i 170 41 40i 40J 40} 40 39f 39* 39} 39 38} 38* 38} 38 175 41* 4H 41 40f 40* 40} 40 39} 39* 39} 39 38} 38J 180 42 41f 4U 41} 41 40f 40* 40} 40 39} 39* 39} 39 185 m 42} 42 41} 4U 41} 41 - 40} 40* 40} 40 39} 39i 190 43 42f 42* 42} 42 41} 411 41} 41 40} 40* 40} 40 195 43i 43i 43' 42f 42* 42} 42 41} in 41} 41 40} 40* 200 44 43f 43 1 43} 43 42} 42* 42} 42 41} 41* 41} 41 205 44^ 44i 44 431 43* 43} 43 42} 42* 42} 42 41} 4H 210 45 44i 44^ 44} 44 43} 43* 43} 43 42} 42* 42} 42 215 45J 45} 45 44f 44* 44} 44 43} 43^ •43} 43' 42} 42^ 220 46 45f 45^ 45} 45 44} 44* 44} 44 43} 43^ 43} 43 225 46* 46} 46 45| 45i 45} 45 44} 44* 44} 44 43} 43* 230 47 46i 46* 46} 46 45} 45* 45} 45 44} 44* 44} 44 235 47i 47} 47 46| 46* 46} 46 45} 45* 45} 45 44} 44^ 240 48 47f 47^ 47} 47 46} 46* 46} 46 45} 45^ 45} 45 245 48* 48} 48 47| 47i 47} 47 46} m 46} 46 45} 454 250 49 48f 48i 48} 48 47} 47* 47} 47 46} 46^ 46} 46 255 49* 49} 49 48f 48* 48} 48 47} 47* 47} 47 46} 46i 260 50 49| 49* 49} 49 48} 48^ 48} 48 47} 47i 47} 47 265 50* 50} 50 49f 49^ 49} 49 48} 48* 48} 48 47} 47i 270 51 50f 50* 50} 50 49} 491 49} 49 48} 48* 48} 48 275 51| 51} 51 50f 504 50} 50 49} 49* 49} 49 48} 48^ 280 52 511 51* 51} 51 50} 50* 50} 50 49} 49i 49} 49 285 52* 52} 52 51f 51i 51} 51 50} 50* 50} 50 49} 49J 290 53 52f 52* 52} 52 51} 51* 51} 51 52} 50* 50} 50 295 53i 53} 53 52f 52* 52} 52 51} 51* 51} 51 50} 50i 300 54 53f 53i 53} 53 52} 52* 52} 52 51} 51* 51} 51 For large waisted persons deduct J inch for each inch the waist measure exceeds the proportionate. For small waisted persons add J inch for each inch the waist measure is less than proportionate. For athletes add one size to the breast measure stipulated. Proportionate Waist Lengths and F\ill Lengths of Coats 5-4 5-5 5-6 5-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6 ft. Natural Waist — Frock Fashionable Waist— Frock . . , Sack Coats — Waist Sack Overcoats — Waist Full Length — Sack Coats — S. B. Frock — D. B. Frock. . . . — Dress Coat — Overcoat 16 17i- 16* 17 27 34 38 37 40 16} 17} 16} 17} 27* 34* 38* 37* 40* 16* 18 17 17i 28 35 39 38 41 16} IS} 17} 17} 28* 35* 39* 38* 41* 17 18^ 17* 18- 29 36 40 39 42 17} 18} 17}. IS} 29* 36* 40* 39i 424 17* 19 18 30 37 41 40 43 17} 19} IS} 18} 30^ 37* 414 404 434 18 19i 184 19 31 38 42 41 44 Circumference In variations of circumference customers are divided into four types : Slim, Normal, Corpulent and Stout. (See illustrations.) By Slim I refer to persons who measure less than normal around waist, as 36 breast and 30 waist, who should be treated in the manner stipulated and insttucted in diagram 2; the Normal coat is that of the solid lines in the same diagram. The Corpulent differs from the Stout around waist as well as over breast. By the Corpulent figure I mean a figure which has grown heavy while still retaining its athletic type, but measuring more than proportionate around the waist ; for example, 42 breast and 42 waist is termed Corpulent : 40 and 39 waist with the 42 breast measure would also be corpulent. (See Fig. 8.) Any man whose waist measures more than Normal, or any man whose waist measure is the same as over breast, is termed Corpulent, and should be treated as shown in diagram 4. The stout man is he who measures more around the waist tiian around the breast. .Study Fig. 9 for Stout form, and treat same as shown in diagram 11. In classifying Circumference, the Slim measures less around waist than Normal, the Corpulent measures more around waist than regulation or Normal waist measure, and the Stout measures more around waist than around breast. In application of the divisions for depth of scye, the increase and decrease for depth of scye over 42 will be only 1-12 inch. ( See diagram 4. ) Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure Note difference of increase on depth of scye. A corpulent figure is one whose waist measure is more than normal, but still does not exceed breast measure. Measures Used Breast -18 in. Waist 48 in. Seat 48 in. Height 5 ft. 8 in. To DraLft Square out and down from A. A to 48 is 1-3 breast measure, but inasmuch as 42 is stipulated point for regular grade, size 42 is taken into consideration. Therefore, .\ to 42 is 1-3 of size 42. V is half way between 48 and 42. V to B is 3 in. A to C is >4 height plus {2 in. A to D is i/ii height plus 1 in. A to E is >4 height minus 3 in. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is J/2 breast. S to G is Zyi in. G to W is 1-6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2J4 in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up and down from H. C to M is >4 in. Square down from M. Rule a line from V to M. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is % in. Sweep back from point 1 to X, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is y2 in. Rule a line from VV to R. Square back frpm K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. Square out from X by balance line. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to O is 3^ waist measure. Shape as shown in illustration from O to 1, O and down. H to 19 is 1/12 breast measure. Rule a line from B to 19 and out. 19 to 2 is % in. Add 14, in- to top of back at A and sliape as shown in diagram from A to R, R to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 3, 17 and down. to P is 1-6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. X to Y is same distance as from R to 1 1 minus y^ in. Shape armholc as shown in diagram from Y to 2, Shape shoulder from Y to X and shape neck hole from X to P and out. Apply waist measure from 3 to M and to 8. 8 to '4 is 3K' in. Apply seat measure on % of division from 17 to 14 and U to 10. 10 to 12 is 2 in. Sweep back from point 5 to 6, using point 2 as a pivot. Sweep forward from 6 to 16, using point X as a pivot. 1 to 13 is iy2 in. to 15 is ly. in. Shape lapel and front. 16 to 18 is \y2 in. Shape cutaway of front as shown in illustration ; also shape side of front part from 2 to 4, 12 and down, and shape bottom of coat from 6 to 18. For double-breasted coat note dash line in this illustration, and add same amount to front as for double-breasted coat illustrated in diagram 2. Place pocket as shown in diagram. Cut a slash in pattern from center of armhole to point 21 and from 21 to front end of pocket, as shown in illustration. Make plait from front of pocket dpwn to front corner of coat as shown by shaded lines, in size so that distance from 20 to 21 will be y% in. for each inch the garment is over normal waist. In this case the coat is 4 in. over normal and total from 20 to 21 is yi in. Dash line on side of front part illustrates open- ing in center of armhole and down to side of front part. For further information on this subject see manipulation for stout. Sack Coat for Corpulent Figure DIAGRAM NO. 4. Exaggeration In these days fashion is hablc to change ahnost over night, and the general demand is for indi- viduality in clothes. We are past the time when clothes are valued simply as a fit ; but fitness in clothes is expressed by style and individual effect produced for particular customers. E.xaggeration, then, becomes a most valuable resource, because by the application of exaggerations to the patterns a cutter is able to produce a garment that not only holds the fitting points, but can be made as many sizes larger than the actual circumference of the man as is necessary, while distributing the material proportionately around the body. For the tall and thin figure exaggeration is of incalculable value, for if a garment was cut according to measurements alone it would by no means represent the advanced style of to- day. Exaggeration is therefore a scientific resource subject to the personality of the type of customer as well as to style, and can be relied on for exactness in enlargement of circumference in garments to the fullest extent. Measurements taken of a customer remain the same as for a fitting garment, and the amount of excess is stipulated according to the type of the customer as well as the prevailing style, by so many inches in excess. The amount of excess also varies in different classes of trade. In providing for different figures requiring exaggeration it would be well to include one size of excess in the normal, or 5 ft. 8 in. and 36 breast, and an average of 3-2 in. more excess for each inch the customer is taller than 5 ft. 8 in., provided he does not increase in circumference in proportion to his height. This is for sack coats. For overcoats it has been found practical to give 2 inches of excess to the figure of normal height 'and circumference, and an average of yS inch more for each inch a man is taller than normal. In frock coats it is advisable not to include any excess for normal height and circumference, but to add J2 inch for each inch the subject is taller than normal. This is for the tall and slim types. For Short and Corpulent and Short and Stout it is advisable to cut a sack according to regular measure ; overcoat two sizes in excess, and frock coat J^ size less than regular measure. Personal practice has demonstrated that this conservative advice should be followed by students ; also, that measurements should be taken according to instructions, and the excess stipulated at the time measurements are taken. < In the Second Section or Definition of Types, Ex. 1, 2 and 3, thereby meaning excess 1. 2 or 3 inches. The diagram on opposite page illustrates exaggeration of 36 to 40. Measurements are as Follows: Waist length 17j^ in. Waist 32 in. Length to seat 23^ in. Seat 2>7 in. Full length 29 in. E.xaggerated four sizes. For proportionate 36 Breast 36 in. in. breast subject. To Draft The dotted lines indicate the regular 36, 32 and S to G is iyi in. 2)7 in. circumference, and 5 ft. 8 in. in height, accord- G to 9 is 1 in., or ^4 in. for each size the coat ing to the regular instructions of sack coat. is exaggerated. ( See dashes between G and 9. ) The solid lines show an exaggerated coat to 40, 9 to W is 1/6 of regular breast measure. 36 and 41 in., respectively, also 5 ft. 8 in. in height. W to 8 is 3/ i"- ''»■ Vi i"- t'"'" e^it^'i size the coat It will be noticed that the depth of scye, waist jg exao-gerated. length, length to seat, as well as length of coat re- Square up from 8 mains the same as the original, while the increases g^^,^^^ ^,p ^^^^ ^^^^.^^ ^^^^^^ 9 are m the circumference, which places the goods of an g^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^ exaggerated coat in the proper position. This being g ^^ jg j^ ^^^ ^^^^j^^ ^^^^^^ measure. a coat exaggerated four sizes, the increases are, there- ^ ^^ ^^ j^ ^,^^ exaggerated breast measure. fore, placed as follows: .„, , , . , ,0 , ^t ■ ,^ „,,.,,, , , ^ Note that the increase between 18 and N is V2 B to 1 IS % of regular breast measure. . . ,,,,.,,. r> ^ T- ■ -t , iju L. 1- ui. for each size, as indicated bv dashes in the distance B to F is % exaggerated breast measure, making ' r \ ,r ■ c t. • j-u 4. ■ from 18 to N. an increase of 1/6 m. for each size the coat is e.x- aggerated, as indicated by dashes between points 1 JSI to 1 is z/4 m. and F. Add 4 inches to the regular waist measure for F to H is the regular 1^ in. e.xaggerated waist, and apply in the usual manner B to S is J^ regular breast measure. plus 3^ in. 26 Diagram for Exaggerated Sack Coat DIAGRAM NO. 5. Also add four sizes to the seat measure and apply in the regular manner, plus 2 in. These are all the points moved b}' exaggeration or obtained by exaggerated measures. All other points relative to shoulders, top of back, etc.. remain according to regulations. Add the button stand, as in a regular coat, and shape as shown by solid lines and finish, and the ex- aggerated coat is completed. Should less exaggeration be desired over waist and seat, add less to your measure, and operate on front part by taking out a V in the same manner as illustrated in the regular sack coat for small waist. Height, variations, direct measures, etc., to be incorporated according to instructions and illustra- tions in this volume. Single and Double Breasted Sack Overcoat Mea.sures Used : Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Seat 41 in. Lenffth, etc., based on heisrht of 5 ft. 8 in. To DrcLft Square out and down from A. A to V is % breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is 34 height plus 1 in. .A to D is % height plus 1 in. A to E is J^ height plus 8 in., or length of coat desired. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is i^ breast measure. F to H is V/i in. B to S is J4 breast measure. S to G is 2>Y2 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2% in. Square up and down from H. Square up and down from G. Square up from W. L to is 34 waist measure. C to M is >^ in. Square down from M. Rule a line from V to M. .\ to T is 1/6 breast. T to R is % in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from Z to X. n to 17 is 1 12 breast measure. Rule a line from B to 17 and out. X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. Shape as indicated from O to I, and down. K to 11 is 34 in. Shape back as shown in illustration by starting ]/% in. above line at point A, from A to R, R to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 10 and down to 5. Apply waist measure from 3 to M and to 8. 8 to 4 is 43^ in.. Apply seat measure on % of the division from 10 to 14 and U to 10. 10 to 12 is 234 in. Reduce front part 3^ in. at point 2. Shape as shown in illustration from 2 to 4, 4 to 12 and down to 6. Sweep backward from point 5 to 6, using point 2 as a pivot. Sweep forward from 6, using point X as a pivot. From X to Y is same distance as from R to 11 minus ^ in. Shape armhole as shown in diagram from Y to 2. Shape shoulder from Y to X. to P is 1/6 breast measure. Draw a line from J to P. Shape neck hole as shown in illustration from X to P and out. 1 to 13 is 2 in. to LS is 2 in. 16 to 18 is 2 in. Extend width of lapel desired. Shape front as per illustration from 13 to 15 and down to 16. Add 1 in. to length of front at point 18. Shape bottom as shown in diagram. Place pockets % of sleeve length down from armhole, and draw up collar in regulation way. For double breasted see d^sh lines. From I to 20 is 4 in. to 19 is 4 in. 18 to 21 is 4 in. Peak lapel according to taste. Make width of lapel 33-^ in. Shape as shown by dash lines and regular double-breasted coat is complete. 28 Single and Double Breasted Sack Overcoat DIAGRAM NO. 6. The Frock Coat The frock coat, as worn in the twentieth century, is a heritage handed down to us by our ancestors. It is a modification of the coat which has been worn by gentlemen for hundreds of years, and is today as much worn by all classes, which have always affected it, as ever. Today the frock coat is worn usually by profes- sional men, the better class of business men, and for formal day dress. The double-breasted frock, or Prince Albert, pop- ularized by the late Prince Consort of England, has grown into the correct garment for formal day dress. For day receptions, weddings, church wear, etc., it is the only correct garment. As in other dress garments, there is little variation in general design from season to season, the changes in model which mark the necessary differences in fashion being mainly in the collars, lapels, facing, the nmnber and placing of buttons, etc. With the double-breasted frock, which is usually made from black or Oxford gray materials, trousers of gray striped worsted are worn, although if a fancy vest is part of the costume, the trousers should be of the same material as the coat. The strict regulation as to what is proper in the cut and material of the double-breasted frock, ex- tends also to the accessories of the costume which are worn with it. A standing, or poke collar, a white shirt, an As- cot or puff tie of cream or gray, silk hat, patent leather or varnished shoes, and white or gray gloves are re- garded by well dressed men as correct, and the fash- ion is not likely to change for several years. The single-breasted frock in its various models is very generally worn by professional and business men as a business coat. The tendency in that direc- tion grows steadily stronger every year, as most pro- fessional men want to wear something different in design from the ordinary sack coat. As a business coat much more latitude is allowed in the accessories worn with the single-breasted frock, than with the double-breasted. Any of the business collars, a four-in-hand tie, and a soft or derby hat may be worn, although if the coat is black, a silk hat and other accessories as worn with the double breasted frock mav be worn for semi-dress. Frock Coats t^S SINGLE BREASTED, OR MORNING FROCK. DOUBLE BREASTED, OR PRINCE ALBERT Outline for Body of Frock Coat Measures Used Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Seat 37 in. Height 5 ft. 8 in. To DraLft Square out and down from A. A to V is Yi breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is 3-4 of height. C to D is V/o in. Square out B, C and D. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is 1>< in. Square up from H. B to S is J<2 breast measure. S to G is 33/2 in. Square up and down from G. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 234 in. Square down from I. Sweep backward from point 1, using G as a pivot. 1 to X is >4 in. Square out from X. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from Q to I. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is ^ in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. L to M is 2 in. C to U is 3/ in. Square down from U. Rule a line from V to U. U to 8 is 3^ of breast measure. K to 23 is Yz breast measure. Shape as shown by iUustration from 23 to 8 and down. M to 4 is J^ waist measure. 4 to U is waist suppression, which is divided into three equal parts, as Figs. 4, 2 and 3 indicate. 8 to 7 is same distance as from 2 to U, or % of waist suppression. Square up and down from 7. 7 to 6 is J4 waist measure. Rule a line from S to 6. 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. O to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. Rule a line from G to 23. 32 Outline for Body of Frock Coat 33 Three Button Frock— continued from outune A to E is 5^ height plus 2 in. 24 to 10 is J4 in. 23 to 13 is ^ in. Shape back of side body as shown by ilhistration from 13 to 7, 24 and 10. K to 11 is yi in. Shape as shown by illustration from % in. above A to R. R to 11 and 11 to 23. From 6 to 5 is same distance as from 4 to 2, or % of waist suppression. Shape as shown by ilhistration from S to 6 and down to 20, and S to 5 and down to 21. Shape bottom of side body from 10 to 20, and shape bottom of front part as shown by illustration from 21 to 9. X to Y is same distance as from R to 11 minus Vs in. Shape armhole as shown by illustration from Y to 13. Shape shoulder from Y to X, and shape neckhole from X to P and out. From I to 18 is 1 3/2 in. From to 19 is I'j in. From 26 to 25 is 3 in. Shape as shown by illustration from 25 to 18, 18 to 19 and down to 9. 9 to 12 is >'2 in. 10 to 14 is 1 -j seat measure. 14 to 15 is 1/12 seat measure. Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down. ■ From 10 to 17 is same distance as from D to E plus 14 in. From 12 to 27 is same distance as from 10 to 17 minus 1 in. Shape top of skirt as shown in illustration from J4 in., above point 10 to point 12. Shape front and back of skirt as shown by solid lines from 10 to 17, extending J-j in. opposite point 15. Shape bottom of skirt as shown by illustration from 17 to 27. Take out a \^ in front part as shown in diagram. Take out \' in front of neckhole and finish as represented. C o 1 1 a. r Draw a line from 18 to ^4 in. in front of point X and up. From X to 29 is 1/6 breast measure. 29 to 30 is 1%. inches. 29 to 31 is 2 inches. Shape 'as shown in illustration from 30 to 29 and from 29 to 31. From 25 to 32 is I'j inches. 32 to 33 is 1-34 inches. Shape as shown in illustration from 30 to 32, 31 to 33 and 33 to 32. Three Button Frock Double Breasted Frock Coat Me8LS\ires bls Follo^vs : Natural waist . . . . Fashionable waist Full length Breast Waist . 17 in. .18>4 in. .40 in. .36 in. .32 in. Seat 37 in. Height 5 ft. 8 in. Weight 135 lbs. Attitude Normal .Square out and down from A. A to V is 1.3 breast measure. Y to B is 3 in. .\ to C is natural waist length. A to D is fashionable waist length. A to E is full length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is 1/3 breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is ^ breast measure. S to G is V/2 in. G to W is 1-6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2^4 in. Square down from I. Square up from \\'. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast. T to R is ^ in. Rule a line from W to R. Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is >4 in. Square back from point K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. Square out from X. X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. L to is J4 waist measure. Shape as shown by illustration from to I, and down. 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. C to U is y, in. .Square down from U. Rule a line from V to U. U to 8 is J/g breast measure. K to 23 is Yi breast measure. K to 11 is y2 in. Square down from 8. Add yi in. to top of back at .A, and shape as shown by illustration from A to R, R to 11. 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down. L to M is 2 in. AI to 4 is J4 waist measure. To Dra^ft 4 to U is waist suppression, which is divided into three equal parts, as Figs. 4, 2 and 3 indicate. 8 to 7 is 73 waist suppression, or same distance as from 2 to U. 7 to 6 is J4 waist measure. 5 to 6 is % waist suppression, or same distance ' as 4 to 2. Square down from 7. 24 to 10 is % in. Draw a line from G to 23. 23 to 13 is 3/^ in. Shape as shown by illustration from 13 to 7 and 24 to 10. Shape from S to 6 and 20. Shape from S to 5 and 21. Shape from 10 to 20 and from 21 to 9. Q to P is 1-6 breast measure, plus J^ in. Rule a line from yi in. forward of J to P. X to Y is same distance as R to 11, minus fg in. Shape armhole from Y to 13. Shape shoulder from Y to X. Shape neckhole from X to P. Lay your square level from 9 to 22 and draw a straight line up to 26. 9 to 12 is 2V2 in. 28 to 27 3K m. Peak lapel according to style. 26 to 25 is 3 in. Shape from 26 to 25, from 25 to 27 and down to 12. Square down from 12 by fashionable waist line. 12 to 23 is 9 in. 23 to 24 is % in. Rule a line from 12 to 24 and down. Add % in. to top of skirt at point 10 and shape top of skirt as shown by illustration from 10 to 12. 10 to 14 is % seat measure. 14 to 15 is 1/12 seat measure. Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down. 10 to 17 is same distance as from D to E, plus y2 in. 12 to 19 is same distance as 10 to 17 minus 1 in. Shape back of skirt from 10 to 17 extending y2 in. at 15, and bottom of skirt from 17 to 19 as shown in illustration. Take out a V in front part as shown. Add I3-J in. to back from D and down and finish as shown. Double Breasted Frock Coat 37 Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure Measures as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. Fashionable waist IS^/j in. Full lensrth 2,7 in. Breast 42 Waist 42 Seat 43 ni. in. in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to V is 1/3 breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is natural waist length. A to D is fashionable waist length. A to E is full length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is ly. in. B to S is y, breast measure. S to G is 3^/2 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 214 in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is ^ in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. C to U is 5^ in. Square down from U. Rule a line from V to U. U to 8 is J^ breast measure. K to 23 is y% breast measure. K to 11 is J^ in. Add y^ in. to top of back at A, and shajjc as shown in illustration from A to R. R to 11, 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down to 16. Sweep back from 1 to X, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is first y2 in, ; then add y% in. for each inch waist measure is over proportion. In this case the waist is 4 in. over normal ; for that reason the total amount from 1 to X in this instance is 1 in. Rule a line from 1 to Z. Square out from X. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to is 1/ waist measure. Rule a line from O to I, and down. 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. Square back from 9. 9 to 25 is 34 waist measure. Take out a Y between 25 and 27 of J/^ in. for every inch the man measures over normal at waist. In this instance, being 4 in., J4 in. would be taken out between 25 and 27. L to M is 2 in. M to 4 is j.4 waist measure. 4 to U is waist suppression, which is divided into three equal parts as Figs. 4, 2 and 3 indicate. From 8 to 7 is 73 of waist suppression, or same amount as from 2 to U. 7 to 6 is ,'4 waist measure. 6 to 5 is i/i'i waist suppression, or same amount as from 2 to 4. Square down from 7. Point 10 is •)4 ill. below fashionable waist line. From 9 to 12 is, first V2 in., same as in normal, plus the amount which is taken out between 25 and 27 . In this instance from 9 to 12 would be 1 in. 23 to 13 is y^ in. Shape as per illustration from 13 to 7 and down. Shape from S to 6 and down. Shape from S to 5 and down. Shape from 10 to 20, 21 to 27, and shape top of skirt as shown in illustration from 10 to 12. 10 to 14 is "':') seat measure. 14 to 15 is 1 '12 seat measure. Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down. 10 to 17 is same distance as from D to E plus K' in. 12 to 26 is same distance as from 10 to 17. minus 1 in. X to Y is same distance as R to 11, minus y^ in. to P is 1/6 lireast measure. Shape armhole from Y to 13; shoulder from Y to X, and neckhole from X to P. 1 to 18 is l;/' ill- to 19 is 1'4 in. Extend width of laix'l desired, and shape same, as well as front, front of skirt, bottom of skirt, and shape as shown by illustration from 10 to 17 on back of skirt, and a three-button frock is finished. For double breasted effect shown by dash lines, see normal draft of double breasted frock, as the shape of front and skirt is identical with it. The technical part for V in front and more crooked shoulder are the same as for this diagram. Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure DIAGRAM No. 10 39 Biagram for Stout Figure DIAGRAM No. 11 Mea-sures: Breast 46 in. All regular points are obtained in the same man- ner as for corpulent coat with the following additions and deductions : I to 33 is ^ in. to E is extra y% in. for every inch the subject measures more over waist than breast. Shape from O through 33 to E and square down from E. Point M is obtained in the same manner as in regular draft. M to 30 is same distance as to E. Waist ?0 in. Then apply waist measure on the J^s from 30 to 4. 4 to C is waist suppression and is divided in the usual manner. 5 to 31 is same distance as I to 33. G to 32 is same distance as I to 33. Take out the difiference between S and 31, as per diagram, also shape armhole, and if for sack coat, perform the same operation and take out the excess at side seam, as shown by dash lines. iO Definitions of Types Second Section of Measurements Having completed the study of Section 1 (Measurements), as well as drawing proportionate patterns from Height and Circumference, and the section on Exaggerations, we now arrive at the definition of types. In actual practice the Definition of Types comes immediately after the First Section of Measurements, and for this reason we have so arranged the illustrations. In order to ex- plain the subject in a comprehensive manner a number of types in figures, illustrated, are introduced, with the idea that the student may study the types and forms of men, and fix in his mind the reg- ular code of types of variations from the normal figure. A subject can be either: — Sloping or Square Shouldered. Large or small blades. Stooping or Erect. Head forward or backward. Long or short neck. The degrees of these variations from the normal are three in number and are termed: 1. Slight inclination. 2. Medium inclination. 3. Extreme inclination. These degrees of deformation hold good in any of the above stated types from the normal. There- fore, after having taken the measurements stipulated in Section 1, as well as registering height and weight, and ascertaining the style of garment desired, make a thorough examination of the custom- er's figure and attitude. Find the inclination at back of neck by placing the yard stick in position of the straight line shown in illustration of Relative Heights, and with the regular tailoring square pressed against the neck point, ascertain the distance from the neck-point to the yard stick. The normal inclination is 2^ inches. If the distance is greater it indicates that the customer is stooping or holds his head forward. If distance is less it indicates that he is erect or holds his head backward. To a student with an active mind a mere glance will suffice to give character to the form and classify the type. By first viewing the customer from the front a cutter is able to ascertain whether he is sloping or square shouldered, and in what degree, also, to notice the development of the muscles and whether he is broad or narrow chested. Next it is well to view the customer from the side or profile. This will enable the cutter to notice and stipulate in what degree the customer is stooping, or erect, using the inclination as a guide, or whether he holds only his head forward or backward, and in what degree. Next, observing the customer from the back will enable a cutter to notice and stipulate in what degree the customer has large or small blades or long or short neck. In order to give the final idea of the extent of the degree of deformation five different illustrations are shown, of which all, with the exception of the Normal, show the Second degree of variation from the Normal. ^S^;: Fig. 1. Normal. Fig. 2. Square Shoulders. Fig. 3. Sloping shoulders. Fig. 4. Erect. Fig. 5. Stooping. In providing for the requirements of the different forms we constantly come in contact with two or more types in one subject. For example, a man can be both Sloping and Stooping, or he can be Sloping, Stooping and have large blades, and also have a long or short neck in that connection; or he can be Square, small blades and erect, etc., etc. (See Figure 5 for Sloping, large blades and Stoop- ing, and Figure 7 for Square, small blades and Erect.) In studying the various types for the different subjects be sure that the illustrations pertaining to them are thoroughly understood. Then picture to yourself the three different degrees. Place yourself before a mirror and arrange yourself first in the Normal position, then in the first, next in the second, and finally in the third degree of Square. Next arrange yourself as nearly as possible in the three degrees of Sloping. When this is done study your own form for large or small blades. Stooping or Erect, etc., and whenever in public places notice the different types and forms of men. Ascertain whether this or that man has a long or short neck, or any other deformation, and in what degree. The sooner you accustom yourself to this study the better it will be for you. Always carry in your mind the Normal and notice the varia- tions from it and fix the degree. It will surprise ycu to find that in a comparatively short time you will be able to classify the different types and stipulate the degree of variation with promptness and exactness so that you can apply them in actual practice. The Second Section of Measurement consists of defining all the types and degrees of variation, and should, therefore, be entered on your order book just after the First Section of Measurements and before taking direct measures, so as to be sure that the variations have been thoroughly stipulated, as variations in drafting belong to the scientific part. These deformations of types and degrees of variation must be thoroughly defined before taking or applying direct measures. Therefore, stipulate in your order book as Section 2 whether the cus- tomer is Normal Or square in the first, second or third degree. Or sloping in the first, second or third degree. 4.1 Or large blades in the first, second or third degree, Or small blades in the first, second or third degree, Or stooping in the first, second or third degree. Or erect in the first, second or third degree. Or long neck in the first, second or third degree. Or short neck in the first, second or third degree, Or head forward in the first, second or third degree. Or head backward in the first, second or third degree. Then, again, caution should be exercised in stipulating the degree of the above types, as in draft- ing, the application of them will have prompt effect on the pattern. Therefore, do not try to find fault with the form of the customer if on careful examination no noticeable inclination to any of the above stated types can be found, as practice has demonstrated that a garment produced from a good propor- tionate pattern will fit at least one-half of the men of the same height and circumference. Therefore, if the inclination to a certain type is so slight that it is hard to distinguish, I would advise to cut a pro- portionate shoulder in the pattern. Incline How to obtain the incline is illustrated in Relative Heights. For application to draft see Varia- tions. The incline measurement is taken with the view of ascertaining whether the customer is stooping or erect, head forward or backward, or whether he has large or flat blades, and is a valuable resource in conjunction with definition of types and in stipulating degrees of same. 2^4 in. is normal incline, 3^ in. either more or less than normal means one degree. For example : If the distance is 2^ in. the cus- tomer is either stooping, or has head forward, or has large blades in the first degree, and for each addi- tional Yz in. of incline the customer would be stipulated an additional degree. If the customer measures less than normal the incline indicates whether erect, head backward, or has small blades, in either first, second nr third degree, according to the amount he measures less than normal. The incline is obtained by placing the yardstick perpendicularly against customer's back, and with regular drafting square press against neck point. The distance on the measuring square from yardstick to neck point is the incline. For positions of incline see illustration Relative to Heights. For further instructions see Second Section of Measurements in connection with Definition of Types, and for appli- cation to drafting see \^ariations. 44 Variations Diagram A illustrates variation of head forward or backward in second degree. Solid lines show normal shoulder ; dotted lines illustrate variation of head backward ; dash lines il- lustrate variation of head forward. Point C is half way between A and B. Square out from C. Point 12 is half way between C and D. Sweep up and down from A, using point 12 as a pivot, and sweep up and down from X, using point 12 as a pivot. Head Forward Stipulate degree of variation for head forward by either J4 in-- Y^ in. or ^ in. from A to 2 and X to 8. Rule a line from 2 to Z and square out by same line from point 2 as indicated by dash lines, thereby finding point 8 on front shoulder. Head Backward For head backward stipulate degree by either 34 point 7 on front shoulder, in., ■ 2 in. or % in. from A to 3 and X to 7. The other lines e.xplain themselves. Always study inclination and definition of types in connection with Rule a line from 3 to Z and square out by same line, as illustrated by dotted lines from point 3, finding thi s fliaarram. Variations ^h^^'m^^ ^V^<>1 Stooping Diagram B illustrates variation for stooping and erect. Solid lines illustrate normal, dash lines show stooping, and dotted lines illustrate erect. Point H is half way between W and B. Stipulate variation by 34 '"■> 3^ in. or y^ in. from B to 12. Draw a line from 12 to H and out as shown by dash line. Square up from same line from W, G, H and 12. 12 to 2 is y^ breast measure, plus 3 in. Square out from 2 by dash line, finding point 8. Shape back, armhole, shoulders and neckhole as shown by dash line for stooping. Erect For erect, stipulate degree of variation 34 i") V^ in. or % in. from B to 13. Draw a line from 13 to H and out as shown by dotted breast line. Square tip from dotted line from W, G, H and point 13. 13 to 3 is 1 3 breast measure, plus 3 in. Square out from point 3 as shown b)' dotted line and find point 7 . Shape back, armhole, shoulders and neckhole as shown by dotted line for erect. Always study definition of type and inclination in this connection, and thoroughly stipulate degree of variation. Width of back, the depth of neckhole as from Q to P, 10 to 15 and 9 to 14, are each 1-6 breast, the same as in normal coat. All points below breast line are found in the regular manner subject to variations and manipulations for sizes. Variations Diagram C illustrates large and small blade. Solid lines show normal, dash lines show large blade and dotted lines show small blade. Stipulate degree of variation by either 34 "''v /^ in. or % in., varying from G. G to 7 is for large blade and G to 8 is for small blade. It will be clearly seen that the' width, of back moves in same direction as front of scve. For ex- ample, from FI to 6 is same distance as from G to 8, anil from FI to 5 is same distance as from G to 7. Shape back, armhole and shoulders as shown by dash lines for large blade ; sharp armhole, shoulder, and back as shown by dotted line for small blade. Always study definition of types and inclination in connection with this diagram. Variations Diagram D illustrates sloping and square shoul- ders. Solid lines show normal, dash lines illustrate sloping, and dotted lines illustrate square. For SquaLre Stipulate degree of variation from point B by either 14 i"-, >2 in. or 34 in. from B to 2. Square out from point 2; from K to 5 is same distance as from B to 2 and Y to 9 is same distance as from B to 2. Shape as shown by dotted line for square. For Sloping Stipulate degree of variation by either ^ in., yi in. or ^4 ^n. from point B to point 3. Square out as shown by dash line. K to 4 is same distance as B to 3 ; Y to 7 is same distance as B to 3. Shape shoulder, armhole and front shoulder as shown by dash line for sloping. Always study definition of types in connection with this diagram. Variations, Diagram E illustrates long and short neck. The arrow shows point 1 and is half way be- tween B and W. Long Neck Rule a line from 1 to X and out. Stipulate degree of variation by ]\ in.. >'< in., or ^4 in. for long neck from A to 2 and X to 6. Square out from 6. Shape top of back and front shoulder as shown by dotted line for long neck. Short Neck Stipulate degree of variation by Y^ in., Yz in., or % in. from A to 3 and from X to 7. Square out from point 7 by balance line. Shape top of back, front shoulder and neckhole as shown by dash line for short neck. Always study definition of type, in connection with this diagram. 49 Sleeves All sleeves must be produced from the size of armhole. Therefore, always measure your armhole and whatever the armhole is in circumference use that for 3-our size of sleeve. For example, if your armhole or scye is 18 in. in circumference use 18 as a drafting size for your sleeve. This sleeve is produced from an 18 in. armhole and is 18 in. in length from the armpit to the hand. To Dracft Square out and down from .\. A to C is 1/12 arm-scye. A to B is % arm-scye. B to E is 1/6 arm-scye. B to D is 1 in. B to P is full length of sleeve. P to R is V.A in. K is half way between B and P. Square out C, B, K and R. A to F is 54 arm-scye. A to G is 3^ arm-scye. Square down from G. H to J is 3^ arm-scye. C to L is 3^ arm-scye. P to N is 63/2 in., making a finished cuff ol 12 inches. Shape as shown in illustration from D to L, F and H. Rule a line from E to J and shape as shown in illustration from D to J. Shape from H to N. Shape from P to N. Shape from J to O and N. K to 5 is ^ in. Shape as shown in illustration from D to 5 and P. If seam is desired under the arm add }^ in. from B to 1 and P to 3. Shape as shown by dasji line from D to 1, and 1 to 3. Reduce the under-sleeve 'V^ in. from B to 2 and P to 4 and shape from 2 to 4. Sleeve for Stooping and Erect Sleeve for Narrow and Broad Shoulder In sleeves for stooping and erect balance line at front must be changed as shown by dotted and dash lines on diagram. For Stooping Dotted lines indicate stooping. Stipulate degree of variation by 3/2 in., 1 in. or \y2 in. from P to 2. Shape top and under sleeve as shown by dotted line from H to 2 and J to 2 — and from D to 2. For Erect Dash lines indicate erect. Stipvjlate degree of variation by J4 in., 1 in. or 1^ in. from P to 1. Shape top and under sleeve as shown by dash lines from H to 1 and T to 1 — and from D to 1. If shoulders are narrow a high top is necessary on the sleeve, and if shoulders are wide the top of sleeve should be less. Therefore, in the diagram per- taining to high and low tops on sleeves, the dotted lines illustrate the high top and the dash lines the low top. The construction lines are the same as in the normal sleeve, which has been explained, but it must be understood that the amount you reduce the width of shoulder must be added to the sleeve and the amount you widen the shoulder of coat must be taken from the sleeve. Earnest attention should be oiven to this in drafting. Direct Measures Third Section of Measurements Having in the First and Second Sections of Measurements illustrated and instructed the manner and order in which measurements should be taken, as well as the Definition of types and the Degrees of Deformation and application to draft of these variations, I would like to have it understood that, while all measurements, as well as the Definition of Types, are a matter of judgment, that in application to the draft, the proportions, heights and circumference, as well as variation of attitudes, all spring from the same principle, and are, therefore, the fundamental and scientific part of this work. Measures heretofore taken in connection with the fundamental principles we shall, therefore, term proportionate measures, as they have reference only to lengths and circumference. Short, or direct measures are from the scientific point of view supplementary measures, as these measures can be taken from and to any part of the body and applied to and from any part of the draft. The name in itself is aggravating, and it would be unwise to rely on these supplementary measures for symmetry and grace, but in con- nection with fundamentals they act as a guide to attitudes. While proportions and variations have in the past been considered, and in fact, are a system in themselves, direct measures have also been known as an independent method for the production of clothes. Modern developments and practical application of both principles and theories are not only beneficial and practical, but a necessity, hence, this combination of the two principles: a methodical way of measurement, and application in connec- tion with fundamental and scientific proportions and variations. The term measuring means the application of the measuring tape to and from different parts of the body, thereby ascertaining that one part of the body is so many inches from another. If the space on which the measuring tape is applied differs from one side or the other, the different quantities of surface on which it was applied are either smaller or larger than normal. This is the theory of measurements and should be so under- stood. The most essential direct, or supplementary measures are as follows : Slope of shoulder. Blade measure. Depth of Scye. Front measure. Waist length. Strap measure. Length to seat. Over shoulder measure. The chalk marks made on the customer's back when proportionate measures were taken are meant to indicate the different stations for supplementary measures. In taking these direct or supplementary measures the utmost care should be exercised in order to have them as nearly correct as possible, as mismeasuring would cause all kinds of trouble in patterns and try-on. Toward this end it is hereby suggested to the student that he procure for himself a measuring square on which the various propor- tions of these measurements are stipulated, and with the tape attached to the angle of this square we will now, in a methodical way, proceed to take these supplementary measures. In measuring, stand behind the customer and place the end of the tape at point A, Plate 4. Pass the tape through your right hand to point Z, Plate 4, and register the measure for slope of shoulder. Next, pass the tape through the right hand to point B, Plate 4, and register the measure for depth of scye. Next, let the tape pass through the right hand to point C and register waist length from A to C, Plate 4. Next, pass 'Direct Measures FU\e ± rii^^t 5. r.3 the tape through the right hand to point D, and register length to seat, from A to D, Plate 4. Now, place the measuring square under the left arm. Be sure said square is placed well under the arm, but not so high that it would raise the shoulder of the customer. Particular care should be taken to ascertain that the square is placed exactly level. Now, recall the breast measure taken in the First Section of Measurements. Find the same figure on the square. Also, proportion figures for the sup- plementary measures in this connection, and while it is not certain that the measures taken will correspond with these proportionate measures, it will materially assist in obtaining better measure- ments than without these tables of proportions. Having the square properly placed, etc., as shown in illustration of front view, Plate 5, proceed to take measures as follows: From H of front view, Plate 5, under arm to B on back view, Plate 4, register blade measure. Next, turn tape around and over breast, and hold square in same position, and register front meas- ure from H to X, as per front view, Plate 5. Next, turn tape around and up on shoulder and to back of neck, and register strap measure from H on front view, Plate 5, to A on back view, Plate 4. Next, turn the tape over shoulder to point B, and register over shoulder measure from point H front view, Plate 5, to point B of back view, Plate 4. The complete measurements for a coat of the style of the ideal model for Supreme System you have entered in your measuring book stand as follows : Length 29 inches Seat 37 inches Width of back 14 " Sleeve 18^ " Breast 36 " Height 5 feet 8 Waist 32 " Weight 135 pounds Incline ly^ inches Shoulder slope 3 inches Blade 11 inches Depth of scye 9 " Front 7 " Waist length 1?!^ " Strap 12 " Length to seat 23^ " Over shoulder 17 " While these are all the measures necessary, additional measures can be taken to and from any point of the body and incorporated with other supplementary measures and applied in the same man- ner over draft, but practical cutters do not take more measures than necessary, for the reason that it would be confusing, and my advice to beginners is to stay as near fundamental principles as possible, because supplementary measures are difficult to obtain correctly. By using proportions and variations as heretofore stipulated, apply these measures for your own satisfaction, and where direct, or supple- mentary measures differ from the fundamental, give proportions and variations at least half the bene- fit by cutting difference between the two points in two, placing the point in the middle. Direct meas- ures are of more value to the experienced cutter or advanced student, as by experience they have learned to take measurements with more exactness, so in application they are more experienced, con- sequently, they more thoroughly understand the value of these measures. The truth, however, is that a good, experienced cutter always lays up his proportions subject to height and circumference. He applies his variations to the draft according to the definition of attitude so as to place the different points in position for measurements and finally applies direct measurements as he finds practical and divides the difference between the fundamental and direct measures, as my advice to beginners shows. Application of Measurements Mea-sures Ots Follow^s : Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Height 5 ft. 8 in. Attitude Normal Obtain all scientific points by regulations for cir- cumference and height. Rule a line from X to G and down. From G to AA is 1/6 breast measure (or same distance as from A to T). Apply measure for depth of scye from A to B (no addition). Depth of scye 9 in. Blade H i"- Strap 12 in. B to 8 is blade measure. 8 to G is 1>4 in. (addition necessary to blade measure for make up). Apply strap measure plus J4 in. from AA to X, and the three most essential measures have been ap- plied to draft with the proper additions. Read third section of measurements. Application of Measurements Mea.sures Breast ^8 in. Waist -56 in. Height 5 ft. 10 in. (For large blade second degree, long neck sec- ond degree.) To Dratft a.s FolIoNvs: Depth of scye 10/4 in. Blade 12 in. Strap 1-^34 in. Width of back 7^ in. First lay up normal draft subject to height and circumference. Promptly note variations and degree of same and apply them to draft as shown in illustration of varia- tion (see Diagram C and E on Variations), thereby placing your draft in position for measurements. Draw a line from X to D and down. D to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same dis- tance from 6 to 3. Apply measure for depth of scye from B to 6. Apply blade measure plus V/z in. from B to D. (Note that point G is normal.) Apply strap measure, plus yi in., from AA to X. Apply measure for width of back, plus ^ in., as shown in illustration. Apply waist measure in regular manner from 12 to 13 and 9 to 5. Add 3>^ in. for shape up on side of front part at waist. Read third section of measurements. 56 application of Measurements Me&sures Breast 40 in. Waist 40 in. Height, 5 ft. 8 in., stooping in second degree and sloping in second degree. Incline iyk in. Depth of scye 11 in. To First lay out your normal draft subject to height and circumference. Stipulate stooping in second degree as per Defi- nition of Types and incline. (See Diagram B — Vari- ations.) Next slope same in second degree. (See Diagram D — Variations.) Draft is now in position for measurements. Draw a line from X to D and down. D to A A is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as from 4 to T. a.s Follows : Blade 12 in. Strap 1354 in. Over-shoulder 18^ in. Front 8 in. Width of back 8 in. Draft Apply depth of scye from 7 to 4. Apply blade measure plus 1^/2 in. from 7 to D. Apply strap measure, plus '< in., from AA to X. Apply over shoulder measure, plus 1 in., from 7 to 14 and D to J. Apply measure for width of back, plus J^- in., as shown in illustration, and apply front measure, plus % in., from D to E. Apply waist measure in regular manner. Read third section of measurements. 57 Application of Measurements Li DIAG. N. lOl _5T asl cn| -$1 ^1 iai d ^1 SI ^g MeaLSures bls Follows Breast 36 in. Waist 30 in. Height 5 ft. 4 in., erect in second degree, small blade in second degree, square in second degree. Incline 1 M in- Depth of scye 7% in. Blade 10^ in. Strap 11J4 in. Over-shoulder 15^ in. Width of back 6i^ in. Front TYi. in. To Dracft First lay up regulation draft subject to height and circumference. Promptly note variations. Small blade is shown from G to D on this dia- gram ; also as shown by illustrations Diagram C — Variations. Next erect draft as per incline and definition of types as stipulated in Diagram B- -Variations. Next square same as shown by regulation illus- trated in Diagram D — Variations. Having finished these preliminaries, the draft is now in position for measurement. Apply all measurements and allow same addi- tions as previously illustrated and explained in these Applications of Measurements ; also note that these measurements call for small waist, therefore, take out a V in side and add 2 seams, or }4 in., to side of front part as shown by direction in diagram 2 show- inof small waist. 58 application of Measurements This diagram is produced for the purpose of il- lustrating how measurements are appHed in connec- - tion with exaggerations, and it will be clearly seen by illustration that depth of scye and strap are ap- plied in same manner as usual, as well as that of blade, with 1>4 in. addition, which is the total distance from B to G. See Diagram Page 27 on Exaggerations. G to D is the amount the coat is exaggerated, and this amount is allowed for draping necessary in an exaggerated garment, and is. therefore, not fig- ured in with the measurements, and these are the only three short measures to be applied in connec- tion with proportions and variations for an exagger- ated coat. In connection with the study and practice of these diagrams, thoroughly study the different types, height, circumference and exaggerations; also, the three dif- ferent sections of measurements. Be sure to read the introductory articles, as well as that on Theory and Practice, and try to commit same to memory, as all of these have direct bearing on these drawings and explanations. 59 Hunchback This diagram illustrates the manner in which a coat is drafted for regular hunchback. While same can be produced from proportions and variations, actual measures are of more value for a subject of this kind than for any other. Measures used as follows: Waist length 15 in. Length to seat 21 in. Full length 26 in. Breast 36 in. Waist i2 in. Square out and down from A. A to 18 is % breast measure. 18 to 20 is 3 in. 20 to B is 1^ in. for square. A to C is waist length. A to D is length to seat. A to E is full length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. B to F is ip. breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is J^ breast measure. S to G is 3j4 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 254 in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. Point 13 is half the distance between A to B. Square out from 13. Point 9 is half the distance between 13 to 7. Sweep up from A, using point 9 as a pivot. Sweep forward from 1, using point 9 as a pivot. A to V is % in. 1 to X is ^ in. Rule a line from V to X. V to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is % in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. K to 11 is same distance as B to 20, or lyi in. X to 21 is same distance as R to 11 minus 34 in- 21 to Y is same distance as B to 20, or I54 in. Rule a line from X to Y. C to M is 14 in. Seat 36 in. Squared 1/4 in. Head forward in third degree. Direct measures applied: Upper width of back 14 in. Lower width of back 15 in. Depth of scye 7^ in. Blade 1 1 in. Front measure 7 in. Strap 10 in. Over-shoulder 16^4 in. To Draft Rule a line from 13 to M and down. H to 22 is % in. B to 19 is 34 in. Place corner of square at 22, letting short arm of same rest on point 19, and square down from 22. H to 15 is 1/12 breast measure. 15 to 2 is J4 in. Apply measure for depth of scye from B to V. Apply blade measure plus 1J4 in. from B to G. Apply half upper width of back plus ^4 in. from Z to K. Apply half lower width of back plus 34 in. across back at point 17, as shown in illustration. Rule a line from X to G and down. G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as from V to T. Apply strap measure plus 34 in. from AA to X. Apply over-shoulder measure plus 1 in. from B to 25 and G to 26. Apply front measure plus % in. from G to L Shape as shown in illustration from V to 13, V to R, R to 11, 11 to 2, 2 to 4 and down. L to is 5^ waist measure. Apply waist measure from 4 to M and to 8. 8 to 3 is 334 in. Apply seat measure on % of divisions from 10 to 14 and U to 10. 10 to 12 is l}i in. Reduce front part 34 in. at point 2. Shape as shown by illustration from 2 to 3, 12 and down. Sweep backward from point 5. using point 2 as a pivot. Sweep forward from 6 to 16, using point X as a pivot. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y to 2. Shape shoulder from Y to X. 60 Diagram for Hunchback X to Q is 1-6 breast measure. Shape as shown in ilkistration from Q to I, and down. Q to P is 1-6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. Shape neckhole from X to P. 1 to 23 is iy2 in. to 24 is 1J4 in- Take out a V in gorge as shown in illustration. Shape lapel, front and bottom. Place collar and pockets in regular manner and finish as shown. 61 Overcoats The shifting and uncertain temperature wliich characterizes most of tlie northern hemisphere makes necessary an overgarment which may be put on or removed to suit the differences in climate. By common consent of well-dressed men the overcoat has been adopted in America as the model for this garment. Fashion in overcoats decrees many changes, sometimes rapid, other times slowly growing, yet in late years the fashionable models have been divided into the loose coats without a waist seam, and the frock overcoats, on the order of the New- market. First one style and then the other has the vogue, but seldom do the two general designs become pop- ular at the same time. When the frock overcoats are in favor the straight backed variety is usually not largely worn. The single-breasted frock overcoat is called the Newmarket, the double-breasted the Surtout. In the straight falling style there are two mod- els, the straight, box back overcoat, falling from the shoulders, and the sack or Chesterfield overcoat, which may be more or less body fitting. The short box overcoat is designed for riding, driving or country wear and is called a covert coat, from the material with which it is usually built. The ulster is a long box coat. There is little change of design in garments made from either light or heavy materials, for wear in cool or extremely cold weather, the material only makes the difiference between the spring and fall and tRe winter overcoats. In strictly dress overcoats, the Inverness with a cape, for evening wear, has been the favored gar- ment for a number of years, and while recently it has suffered an eclipse in favor of the sack overcoat, there is reason to believe it is slowly coming back into favor. Certainly no more graceful and becoming gar- ment could be worn for formal dress. Sometimes a novel idea in overcoats comes to the surface, but its reign is usually short lived. Such was the Raglan, which was so popular a few years Overcoats FRONT AND BACK VIEWS OF SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT Exaggerated Single and Double Breasted Box Coat Mea-surements Used a.re a.s Follows Waist length 17i4 in Length to seat 24 Full length of coat 45 Breast 40 Waist 36 Seat 41 in. in. in. in. in. Excess, four sizes. Height, 5 ft. 8 in. Attitude, normal. Direct measures : Depth of scye 9^ in. Blade 12 in. Strap 13 in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to V is Vg, breast measure. V to B is 3 in. Apply measure for depth of scye from A to B. A to C is waist length. A to D is length to seat. A to E is full length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. B to 4 is % regular breast measure. B to F is % exaggerated breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is 54 regular breast measure. S to 5 is 3^/2 in. Apply blade measure plus lj4 in. from B to 5. 5 to G is 1 in., or ^4 in. for each size the garment is exaggerated, this garment being exaggerated from 40 to 44. B to 3 is 1/6 regular breast measure. 3 to W is J^ in. for each size the coat is exag- gerated. In this case the distance from 3 to W is y2 in. B to N is exaggerated breast measure. N to I is 2J4 in. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 regular breast measure. T to R is % in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to G and down. G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as from A to T. Apply strap measure plus J^ in. from AA to X. Rule a line from Z to X. X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. L to O is half of regular waist measure plus % inch for every inch the coat is exaggerated. In this case 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from Q to I, and down to 18. C to M is >^ in. Rule a line from V to M and down. From 14 to 18 is J^ exaggerated breast measure. Rule a line from S to 18 and down. From H to 17 is 1 in. Rule a line from B to 17 and out. K to 11 is 3-4 in. Add Ys, in. at top of back at point A. Shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to 11 and 11 to 2. Apply exaggerated seat measure, which in this case would be 45 on the two-thirds of the divisions from 18 to 14 and U to 10. 10 to 12 is 31/ in. Reduce front part J4 in. at point 2. Rule a line from 2 to 12 and down. Sweep backward from 5 to 6, using point 2 as the pivot. Sweep forward from 6 to 18, using point X as the pivot. Q to P is 1/6 regular breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. Shape armhole as shown in ilUistration from Y to 2. Shape shoulder from Y to X. Shape neck hole from X to P and out. Extend a button-stand to front of 2 inches from I to 13, to 15 and 18 to 16 for single-breasted coat. Add 1 in. to front length at point 18. Shape front for single-breasted coat as shown by solid lines. For double breasted, dash lines illustrate the front part. Extend 4 in. on front from points I, and 18. Peak lapel as shown in illustration. Make width of lapel at top 3^ in. and take out V in the gorge, as shown in illustration. Place the pockets down % of the sleeve length. For top coat as shown by dot and dash lines pro- duce same coat as heretofore described with the ex- ception of the length, which may be 34 to 36 in. Exaggerated Single and Double Breasted Box Overcoat 65 Single Breasted Hewmarket and Double Breasted Surtout Solid lines indicate front of Newmarket and dash lines indicate the way the front is cut for surtout. This diagram is produced from the following meas- ures: Natural waist 17 in. Fashionable waist 18 J4 in. Full length of coat 48 in. Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Seat 41 in. Height 5 ft. 8 in. Square out and down from A. A to V is y^ breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is natural waist length. A to D is fashionable waist length. A to E is full length of coat. Square out from B, C, D and E. Apply depth of scye from A to B. B to F is Vs breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is J/4 breast measure. S to G is 3y2 in. Apply blade measure plus !]/> in. from B to G. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2]/^ in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is ^ in. Draw a line from W to R. C to U is 3^ in. Square down from U. Rule a line from V to U. U to 8 is J^ breast measure. Square down from 8. Square back from point K, finding point Z. K to 23 is % breast measure. K to 11 is X' '"• Add Ys in- to top of back at point A and shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to 11, 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down to 16 as shown by solid lines. Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is ;^ in. Rule a line from X to Z, and rule a line from X to G and down. G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as A to T. Apply strap measure plus ^-j in- from AA to X. Square out from X by balance line. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to is 3^ waist measure. Shape from O to I. and down. Attitude, normal. Direct measures : Depth of scye 9^ in. Blade 12 in. Strap 13 in. To Draft 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. '■1- L to M is 2 in. M to 4 is >4 waist measure. 4 to U is waist suppression, which is divided into three equal parts, as Figures 4, 2 and 3 indicate. 8 to 7 is % waist suppression, or same distance as 2 to U. 7 to 6 is V^ waist measure. 6 to 5 is % waist suppression, or same distance as 4 to 2. Rule a line from 23 to G. , 13 to 23 is Yi in. 24 to 10 is ^ in. Shape as shown in illustration from 13 to 7 and down to 10 and from S to 6 and 20; also from S to 5 and 21. Shape bottom of sidebody from 10 to 20. Shape bottom of front part as shown in illustra- tion from 21 to 9 and out. to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P and out. X to Y is same distance as from R to 11 minus Y& in. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y to 13. Shape shoulder from Y to X. Shape neckhole from X to P. 1 to 18 is 2 in. to 19 is 2 in. Make width of lapel from 28 to 27, 3>-^ in. Shape from 27 to 18, 19 and down to 12. Square down from 12 by fashionable waist line. 12 to 33 is 9 in. ii to 34 is Y& in. Rule a line from 12 to 34 and down. . 10 to 14 is % seat measure. 14 to 15 is 1/12 seat measure. Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down. 10 to 17 is same distance as D to E plus J/2 in. 12 to 25 is same distance as 10 to 17 minus 1 in. Add 34 in. to top of skirt at point 10 and shape top of skirt as shown by illustration from 10 to 12. Add y, in. at point 15 to back of skirt, and shape as shown by solid lines from 10 to 17, and shape from 17 to 25. Take out a \' in front part as shown. Note dash lines at front of coat. Level your square from 9 to 22 and rule up same as in double-breasted frock. Lapels and front for surtout are produced in ex- actly the same manner as those of double-breasted For Surtout frock, with the exception that width of lapel averages Y2 in. wider. The front of skirt is also produced in the same manner as double-breasted frock. Therefore, see diagram of same on another page of this volume. Single Breasted Newmarket and Double Breasted Surtout 67 Inverness MeeLSuremervts Used Are As Follows: Waist length 18 in. Waist 36 in. To seat 24 in. Seat 41 in. Length 48 in. Length of cape 34 in. Breast 40 in. Breast, waist and seat exaggerated 4 sizes each. To Square out and down from A. A to V If', breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is waist length. A to D is length to seat. A to E is length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. C to M is >4 in. Rule a line from V to M and down. B to F is % exaggerated breast measure. F to H is V/i in. B to S is J4 regular breast measure. S to 22 is Zy2 in. 22 to G is J4 in. for each size the garment is exaggerated; in this case the garment is exaggerated 4 sizes, consequently the distance from 22 to G is 1 in. G to 21 is 1/6 regular breast measure. 21 to W is J4 in., being Y^ in. for each size the garment is exaggerated. B to N is exaggerated breast measure. N to I is 2^ in. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is % in. Rule a line from W to R. 14 to 20 is J4 breast measure. Rule a line from K to 20 and down. Dracft Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from X to Z. ■ X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. L to is J 2 waist measure plus J4 in. for each size the coat is exaggerated. Shape as shown in illustration from Q to I, and down to bottom of coat. Apply seat measure on % of divisions from 20 to 14 and U to 10. 10 to 12 is 3>4 in. Rule a line from 2 to 12 and down. ■ G to 35 is 13/2 in. Square back from 35. O to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. Shape armhole, shoulder and neckhole as shown in illustration. Sweep back from 5, using point 2 as a pivot, and sweep forward from 6, using point X as a pivot. Add 1 in. to front length at point 16 and shape from 6 to 19. Add 2 in. for button stand from P to 29, I to 13, to 15 and 16 to 19. Shape front as shown in illustration and body of coat is finished. Cape This cape is drafted over coat and is traced off from draft on another paper. Front and shoulder To X to Y is same distance as R to K. Y to 17 is 1 in. Rule a line from 36 to V and out. Apply measure for length of cape as taken over shoulder from X to Y and 17 to 24. Sweep forward from 24, using point X as a pivot. Add 1 in. to length of cape at 23. From Y to 18 is 4 in. point are in same place as those of coat. Shoulder of cape is shape of regular coat. DraLft Shape as shown in illustration from Y to 18 and 17 to 18. Shape from 36 to 17. From 17 to 27 is same distance as from K to 2, plus ^ in. 24 to 28 is 7 in. for vent in side. From 2 to 25 and 2 to 26 is same distance as from 27 to 28. From. P to 33 is same distance as from A to R and X to P. 33 to 34 is 1^4 in. Shape as shown in illustration frf>m 34 to P. Collar To Dra.ft Shape from ZZ to P. 33 to 32 is 3 in. P to 31 is 3 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 34 to Zi and 52. Shape from 32 to 31 and P to 31. 68 Inverness Full Evening Dress Custom decrees that when formal evening dress is required, the long-tailed coat which has earned the name of evening coat should be worn. It is necessary that there should be uniformity in formal dress and for this reason well-dressed men are a unit in deciding the use and the usage for eve- ning dress. To deviate even slightly from established custom in formal dress is to make one unduly conspicuous, and no gentleman likes to render himself an object of remark. The formal evening coat is worn after 6 o'clock in the afternoon at any formal occasion, such as wed- dings, receptions, balls, the opera and theater, when- ever ladies are present. No other costume can be held by any excuse to be correct. The garments should be of black material, al- though a slight tendency toward gray is sometimes allowable. The trousers are braided on the outside seam. The waistcoat is white, of duck or silk, single or double breasted, either plain or corded. With the full dress coat a plain white shirt, with two or three pearl studs, is worn. The collar is either straight front or poke ; the tie a white lawn bow with broad ends ; the shoes patent leather with button tops. or patent leather pumps for dancing ; the gloves white kid, and hat, silk or opera. This fashion is subject to slight variations from season to season, but in its general effect will doubtless be unchanged for many years. 70 Full Dress VIEWS OF FULL EVENING DRESS AND EVENING COAT WITHOUT STRAP AND LAPEL SEAMS Full Dress Coat Solid lines at front indicate regular dress coat. Dash lines illustrate the manner in which the dress coat is cut without strap or lapel seam, the following measures being used : Natural waist 17 in. Fashionable waist 18^ in. Full length of coat 40 in. Breast 36 in. To Square out and down from A. A to V is % breast measure. V to B is 3 in. Check same distance by measure for depth of scye. A to C is natural waist length. A to D is fashionable waist length. A to E is full length of coat. Square out B, C, D and E. C to U is 5^ in. Square down from U and rule a line from U to V. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is 1% in. B to S is ^ breast measure. S to G is 33^2 in. Apply blade measure plus I3/2 in. from B to G. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2>4 in. Square down from I ; square up from W. Square up and down from G and square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is M in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is >4 in. Rule a line from X to Z and rule a line from X to G and down. G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as A to T. Apply strap measure, plus J4 in. from AA to X. U to 8 is J^ breast measure. Square up and down from 8. From K to 23 is yi breast measure. K to 11 is >< in. Add 14, in- to top of back at point A and shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to 11, 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down. L to M is 1^ in. M to 4 is 3/2 waist measure. Waist 32 in. Seat 37 in. Height, 5 ft. 8 in. Weight, 135 pounds. Attitude, normal. Direct measures applied : Depth of scye 9 in. Blade . . . .\ 11 in. Strap 12 in. DraLft Distance from 4 to U is waist suppression, which is divided into three equal parts, as Figures 4, 2 and 3 indicate. 8 to 7 is % of waist suppression, or same dis- tance as 2 to U. 7 to 6 is J4 waist measure. 6 to 5 is % waist suppression, or same distance as 4 to 2. Square down from 7. L to is ^ waist measure. to 25 is 34 in. Square out from X. X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. Shape as shown by illustration from Q to I, 25, 22 and down. 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. 24 to 10 is ^ in., 23 to 13 is Y^ in. Shape as shown by illustration from 13 to 7 and down to 10. Shape from S to 6 and 20, and shape from S to 5 and 21. Shape sidebody from 10 to 20, and shape bottom of front part from 21 to 9. O to P is 1/6 breast measure plus % in. Rule a line from % in. forward of J to P. X to Y is same distance as R to 11, minus ^ in. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y to 13. Shape shoulder from Y to X. Shape neckhole from X to P. Lay your square level from 9 to 22 and draw a line up to 27. Square out from P by having square level with balance line finding point 27. Rule a line from G to 27 and out. 9 to 23 is iy2 in. 23 to 18 is 2 in. 27 to 28 is 234 in. Shape outside of lapel from 28 to 18. Take out a V in front part as shown in illustra- tion. Full Dress Coat For Front Without Strap and Lapel Seam Note dash line on front part coming down to point 23, and reduce front at point 18, '4 in., or same as two seams. This will leave the lower part of front in one piece. Skirt 10 to 14 is 1/3 seat measure. Square back from 14. 14 to 15 is 1/12 seat measure. Rule a line from 10 to 15 and down. . 9 to 12 is i< in. 12 to 19 is 2 in. 19 to 29 is 1/3 of the distance of 9 to 24. Add J4 in. to top of skirt at point 10, and shape top of skirt as shown by illustration from :o to 12. From 10 to 17 is same dis- tance as D to E, plus 1/2 in. Add 3/4 in. to point 15 and shape back of skirt as shown by illustration. 17 to 26 is same distance as 19 to 29. Rule a line from 29 to 26. Shape front of skirt from 29 to 26, and shape bottom as shown by illustration from 17 to 26. Shape top of skirt for full dress coat without strap and lapel seam as shown by dash line. Take out \' in front part at front end of skirt. Add \y2 in. to back from D to E. for back tack, and finish as shown. The Tuxedo or Dinner Coat WITH SHAWL ROLL The dinner coat, or Tuxedo, as it is called in America, was designed first for a lounge coat for evening wear to be put on in the evening when the dress coat was taken off. In England, where large house parties are the rule, and full dress is universal, after dinner the men of the party frequently resort to the smoking or billiard room when the ladies have retired. The dinner coat was then donned, with the trousers and waistcoat of the dress clothes. From this beginning the dinner coat grew to the dignity of a distinct costume, to be worn as dress when only men are present. At clubs, men's dinners, etc., it is correct. Many men imagine that the Tuxedo costume may be worn interchangeably with the dress coat, and at the theater, formal dinners, balls, etc., where la- dies are present it is frequently seen. AND NOTCH COLLAR Nothing could be in worse taste, and nothing shows more clearly how little a man knows about correct dressing than such wear of a Tu.xedo. In its proper place, among men, it is a sightly, easy garment, which is very well liked by men who like to be comfortable and at the same time well dressed. It may be worn with a vest of the same material as the coat, which is usually black or Oxford gray, or with a fancy vest of steel gray. The shirt is white and pleated, the collar a turn over or wing, and the tie a black bow, or of a color to match the vest. The coat may have either a shawl or notch col- lar, either being in good taste. The Tu.xedo being a sack coat, requires to be worn with it a soft or derby hat, never a silk or opera hat. The Tuxedo or Dinner Coat To Dracft Draw up your crease lines from the bottom of the roll or from 5 to 2. Take out a V of 1^ in. from 2 to 1. Point 3 is 1J4 in. below breast line. Run same V to point 3, as shown in illustration. This is done whether there is a shawl collar or a peak lapel dinner jacket. 1 to 4 is 3 inches. If shawl collar is desired, shape as shown in illus- tration, from 4 to 5. If peak lapel is desired, peak lapel according to style. 4 to 6 is 2y2 in. Shape as shown by dash lines in illustration from 4 to 6 and 6 to 5. All other points are the same as in a regular sack coat. Cassock Mea.sures as Follo\vs: Natural waist 17 in. Breast 36 in. „,.,,. . r, . Waist 32 in. i-ashionable waist ly in. t-u r ^ r *i • ^ i -u ^o u ^^ j 1 he front of this coat closes with 32 buttons and Full length ' 58 in. button holes. To Draft Square out and down from A. Sliape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to A to V is i-g breast measure. 11, 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down to 28. V to B is 3 in. Rule a line from G to 23. A to C is natural waist length. 23 to 13 is ^ in. A to D is fashionable waist length. S to 5 is 1^/2 in. A to E is full length of coat. 30 to 27 is % in. Square out from B, C, D and E. Shape as shown in illustration from 13 to 7 and 27. B to F is % breast measure. Shape from 5 to 6 and 20 and shape from 5 to F to His 1>4 in. M and 21. B to S is J4 breast measure. ' Shape bottom of side body from 27 to 20 and 5 to G is 3j^ in. shape bottom of front part from 21 to 9. G to W is 1/6 bi-east measure. . O to P is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. N to I is 2^4 in. ' Rule a line from X to Z. Square down from I. X to Y is same distance as from R to 11 minus Square up from W. ^ in. Square up and down from G. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y to Square up from H. 5 and 13 to 5. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. Shape shoulder from Y to X and shape neck- T to R is 34 in. hole from X to P. Rule a line from W to R. Rule a line from A to 28 and down. Square back from K, finding point Z. Rule a line from 35 to D and down. Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a Rule a line from J to 30 and down, pivot. _ Sweep forward from E to 16 and back from E 1 to X is J^ in. to 18, using point D as a pivot. Square out from X by balance line. From 30 to 17 is same distance as 28 to 16. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. 12 to 19 is same distance as 28 to 16 minus 1 in. L to is I/2 waist measure. Shape top of skirt as shown in illustration from Shape as shown in illustration from O to I, and 30 to 9. down. Extend a plait of 2 in. as shown in illustration 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure. from D to 33 and 18 to 34. L to M is 2 in. Extend a plait of 2 in. as per illustration from M to 4 is 5^ waist measure. 30 to 32 and 17 to 31. 4 to C is waist suppression, which is divided into Extend a plait of 2 in. as shown in illustration three equal parts, as Figures 4, 3 and 2 indicate. from 28 to 30 and 16 to 29. C to 8 is 1/6 breast measure. From P to 26 is Ij^ in. 8 to 7 is % waist suppression, the same dis- I to 25 is lj4 in. tance as from 2 to C. to 24 is l]^ in. 7 to 6 is 34 waist measure. 9 to 12 is 1>^ in. 6 to M is ifi waist suppression, or same distance Shape as shown in illustration from 26 to 25, 24 as 4 to 2. to 12 and down to bottom. K to 23 is 1/6 breast measure. Put on standing collar of l.)4 in. width, as shown K to 11 is 14 in. in illustration. 76 The Cassock Totble of Proportiona-te Mea.sures 1 Tom Height a-nd Circumfere nee Breast 6^ 6-5 5-6 5-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6 ft. Hlade Front Measure Width of Back Waist 32 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 101^2 15 18 ■7ys 18H 8 10% 15% 18% 8% 10% 15% 18% 8% 11 15% 19 8% 11% 15% 19% 8% 11% 16 19% 8% 11% 16% 19% 8% 11% 16% 20 10 6 6% 28 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 33 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 8 10 M 153-s 17% 10?^ 151-^ 18 8% 11 1554 18% 8% 11% 15% 18% 8% 11% 16 18% 8% 11% 16% 19 8% 11% 16% 19% 8% 11% 16% 19% 9 11% 16% 19% 10% 6% 6% 29 Over-shoulder . . . Length of Sleeve. 34 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 8J^ 11 15?s 17^/8 8H 1138 15-M 8% 11% 16 18% 8% 11% 16% 18% 8% 11% 163% 18% 8% 11% 16% 18% 8% 11% 1634 19% 9 11% 16% 19% 9% 12 17% 19% 10% 6% 6% 30 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 35 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 83 s 17:J-s n% 16 17% 8% 11% 16% 17% 8% 11% 16% 18% 8% 11% 16% 18% 9 11% 16% 18% 9% 12 17 18% 9% 12% 17% 19% 9% 12% 17% 19?8 10% 6% 6% 31 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 36 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 8J2 11 lo 161-4 8H 11% 16% 17M 8% 11% 16% 17% 8% 11% 1634- 18 9 12 17 18% 9% 12% 17% 18% 9% 12% 17% 18% 9% 12% 17% 19 9% 12% 17% 19% 11 7 7 32 Over-shoulder . . Length of Sleeve. 37 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 8jg iiM 16?-^ 17 8M 11% 16M 17M 8% 12 17 17% 9 121^ 17% 17% 9% 12% 17% 18 9% 12% 17% 18% 9% 12% 17% 18% 9}^ 12% 17% 18% 9% 1234 18% 19 11% 7% 7% 33 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 38 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 12 163^ 9 12% 17 17% 9% 12% 17% 17% 9% 12% 17% 17% 9% 12% 17% 17% 9% 12% 17% 18% 9% 12% 18 18% 9% 12% 18% 18% 9% 13 183% 18% 11% 7% 7% 34 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 39 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 9 1214 17M 16^ 9% 12% 17% 16% 9% 12% 17% 17% 9% 12% 17% 17% 9Vo ml 18 17% 9% 12% 18% 17% 9% 13 18% 18% 9% i3;s 18% 18% 10 13% 18% 18% 11% 7% 7% 35 40 Depth of Scye. . . Strap ; Over-shoulder . . . Length of Sleeve. 9M 12 J^ 175^ 16,1 2 9% 12% 1734 1534 9% 12% IS 17 9% 12% 18% 17% 9% 13 183^ 17% 9% 13% 18% 17% 10 13% 18% 18 10% 1338 18% 18% 10% 13% 19% 18% 12 8 7% 36 41 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. ■ 1234 17J^ 16M 9% 12% 18 16% 9% 13 18% 16% 9% 13% 18% 17 9% 13% 18% 17% 10 13% 183% 17% 10% 13I9 19 17% 10% 13% 19% 18 10% 13% 193^ 12% 8% 7% 37 42 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 13 18M 161^ 9M 13% 18% 16% 9% 13% 18% 16% 10 13% 188% 16% 10% 13% 19 17% 10% 13% 19% 17% 103-8 1334 19% 17% 10% 13% 19% 17% 10% 14 181-8 12% 8% 8% 38 43 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder . . . Length of Sleeve. 9M 131^ 181^ 15Ks .9% 13% 18% 16% 10 13% 18% 16% 10% 13% 19 16% 10% 13% 19% 16% 10% 13% 19% 17% 10% 13% 19% 17% 10% 14 19% 17% 10% 14% 19% 17% 12% 8% 8% 44 Depth of Scye. . . 15M 10 131^.-^ 18% 16 10% 13% 19 16% 10% 13% 19% 16% 10% 13% 19% . 16% 10% 14 19% 17 10% 14% 19% 17% 10% 14% 19% 17% 10% 14% 20% 17% 13 9 8% Over-shoulder . . . Length of Sleeve. 45 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 10 131.^ 18Js I5I3 10% 13% 19 15M 10% 1334 19% 16 10% 13% 19% 16% 10% 14 19% 16% 10% 14% 19% 16% 1034 14% 19% 17 10% 14% 20% 17% 11 14% 20% 17% 13% 9% 8% 46 Depth of Scye. . . Strap 101^ 133:1 19 153 8 10% 13% 1914 15% 10% 14 19% 15% 10% 14% 19% 16% 10% 14% 193% 16% 103% 1434 19% 16% 10% 14% 201^ 16% 11 14% 20% 17% 11% 14% 20% 17% 13% 9% 8% Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 47 Depth of Scye. . . Strap .... 10J4 137^ 1914 151^ 10% 14 19% 15% 10% 14% 19% 15% 10% 14% 19% 15% 10% 14% 20 16% 10% 14% 20% 163,;^ 11 14% 20% 16% 11% 143% 20% 16% 11% 14% 203/r 17% 1334 934 9 Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. 48 Depth of Scye. . . Strap Over-shoulder. . . Length of Sleeve. lOVs 14 193^ 15 101^ 141.^ 19% 15% 10% 14% 1934 15% 1034 14% 19% 153X 10% 14% 20% 16 11 14% 20%- 16% 11% 143i 201., 16% 11% 14% 20% 163X 113»(•. "^'^ ^ 1 MODELS OF THE DIFFERENT FANCY AND REGULAR VESTS COMMONLY WORN 83 How to Measure Vests After having ascertained the style desired and arranged the vest so that it is smooth front and back, proceed to take measurements over vest as follows: 1. Measure as shown in illustration for actual opening desired from A on back view to E on front view. 2. Measure as shown in illustration for full length of vest from A on back view to F on front view. 3. Measure as shown in illustration to side from A on back view to G on front view. 4. Measure all around breast as shown in front view illustration. Measurements taken should be medium snug. 5. Measure all around waist as shown in front view of illustration. Measurements taken should be medium snug. Height and weight of customer are essential in order to prove up breast measure with the table of breast measures compounded from heights and weights, and also so as to designate the proportionate length of depth of scye and waist. Measurements for vest when entered in order book should stand as follows: Opening Breast Full length Waist Length to side For the different attitudes and deformations, see Definition of Types or Second Section of Meas- urements. For short or direct measures, such as depth of scye, waist length, blade, strap, over shoulder and front measure, see Third Section of Measurements. 84 How to Measure Vests fprn'/y W^^'- 85 Proportionate Vest Mea.sures a-s Follows: Waist length 1" in. Opening 1 1 in. Front length 25 in. Length to side 22 in. Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to V is I3 breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is waist length. Square out from B and C. B to F is 1/3 breast measure. F to H is lyi in. B to S is J4 breast measure. S to G is 3 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2 in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is % in. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. C to M is 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from Z to M and down. Sweep back from point 2, using point G as a pivot. 2 to X is J4 in. Rule a line from X to Z. 2 to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to is 5^ waist measure. Shape from Q to I, and down. Apply measure for opening plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 8. Apply measure for full length plus 1^4 in. from A to T and X to J. Apply measure to side plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 6. L to 3 is 1 in. G to P is 1/12 breast measure. M to 5 is J4 waist measure. 5 to 4 is 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from P to 3 and 6. Shape from P to 4 and 7. J\I to 10 is V/i in. Shape from 10 to 7 and shape from 6 to J. K to E is 34 in. Shape from A to R and R to E. X to Y is same distance as R to E minus J4 >"• Shape armhole as shown in illustration ^ in. below breast line and Yi in. in front of balance line from Y to E. Shape shoulder from Y to X. X to 13 is % in. Shape as shown by solid lines from 13 to 8, from 8 to and to J. Place vest pockets as shown, lower pocket 4 in. from bottom, and make lower pocket 4j/2 in. in length. Make breast pocket 4 in. in length. Extend button-stand as shown by dotted line, to be used only on right side of vest, and single-breasted vest is completed. Double Breasted For double-breasted vest see dash line on front. Make distance from solid line to point 11, 4 in. Make distance from J to 12, 2}i in. Shape as shown in illustration from 8 to 11, 11 to 12 and J to 12, and double-breasted vest is finished. 86 Proportionate Single and Trouble Breasted Vest 87 Vest for Stout Figure Waist length i/ in- Opening 12 in. Full length 29^ in. Mea-sures bls Follou's: . ... 17 in. Length to side 23^ in. Breast 48 in. Waist 50 in. To Dracft Square out and down from A. A to 42 is Ys of 42 on divisions. A to 48 is 1/3 of breast measure. V is half way between 42 and 48. V to B is 3 in. A to C is waist length. Square out B and C. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is iy2 in. B to S is ^ breast measure. S to G is 3 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2 in. Square down from I. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is ^ in. Rule a line from R to W. Square back from K, finding point Z. Sweep back from point 2, using point G as a pivot. From 2 to 13 is J/2 in. From 13 to X is J^ in. for each inch waist meas- ure exceeds breast measure, in this case being 48 breast and 50 waist, the distance from 13 to X is ^ in. Rule a line from X to Z. From L to is ^ waist measure. From to 12 is ^ in. for each inch waist meas- ure exceeds breast measure, in this case being 48 breast and 50 waist, the distance from to 12 is % in- 2 to Q is 1/6 breast measure. Shape as shown by dotted lines from Q to I and 12. Square down from 12. Add from I to 15 as much as is necessary to get a good shaped front, or an average of J/^ in. for each inch waist measure exceeds breast. From M to 11 is J/^ in. for every inch waist meas- ure exceeds normal. In this case waist measure is 6 in. over normal, consequently the distance from M to 11 is J4 in. Shape as shown by illustration from V to 11 and down. From 11 to 5 is J^ waist measure. From 5 to 14 is 1 in. From 14 to 4 is same distance as to 12. G to P is 1/12 breast measure. L to 17 is 1 in. K to E is % in. Shape as shown by illustration from A to R and R to E. Apply measure for opening plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 8. Apply measure for full length plus 1J4 in. from A to T and X to J. Apply measure for side length plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 18. X to Y is same distance as R to E minus 54 in- P to 16 is same distance as 1 to 15. Shape as shown by illustration from 16 to 17 and down to 18. Shape from P to 4 and 7. 11 to 10 in 1% in. Shape from 10 to 7. Extend ^ in. to front at point X and shape as shown by illustration. Shape front from 8 to 12 and down to J. Shape armhole as shown by illustration from E to P. Shape front of armhole as shown by solid lines of illustration from Y to 16 and taking out as much more in armhole as distance from P to 16. Shape from 18 to J. Place pocket and cut same open and lay a plait at point 10 as much as to make opening between 3 and 9, J/g in. for each inch waist measure is over nor- mal ; in this instance waist measure exceeds normal by 6 in., therefore the distance from 3 to 9 is % in. Add ^2 in. for seams at 6. Shape from 6 to J. Extend button stand of }i in. as shown by dotted line of front according to illustration to right side and finish as represented. Vest for Stout Figure S9 Trouble Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel. Also Full Bress Vest With Small Waisted Effect Measures a^s ^ollo^vs: Waist leneth 17 in. Length to side 22 in. Opening 10>4 in. Full length. Breast 36 in. Waist 30 in. To Draft All systematical points are oJDtained in same man- ner as in regular draft, hut it will l>e noticed the measures call for 30 waist, while the hreast is still 36, making the waist measure 2 in. smaller than normal. In applying waist measure from L we find point 9, but the front must have the normal shape as point indicates, and a V is taken out in the side, as shown in front part, which, when seamed up, will eliminate the distance from 9 to 0, making the front part nar- row at the waist and retaining the width over the chest. h""rom M to 15 is J/^ in. for each inch the waist is smaller than normal. A V is taken out in the back so as to reduce the width at waist, having the same efiiect as that of the front part. In other details the opening remains the same as in resrulation draft. Double Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel Lay square level from point J to and square up, finding point 15. Square forward and back from 15 through 8. 15 to 14 is same distance as from 8 to 15. Make width of lapel 4 in. at point 11. From J to 12 is 2 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 8 to 0, 14 to 0, 14 to 11, 11 to 12 and J to 12. Full Dress Vest For full dress vest use dash lines in front part of vest. Measure for whatever opening is desired plus 1 in. from 2 down and shape as shown by dash line and full dress vest is completed. Be sure all the points are thoroughly understood, as while system remains the same for all vests, subject to variations which will be given hereafter, various fronts are only additions and deductions according to the |iurposc for which the vest may be designed. 90 Double Breasted Vest With Separate Lapel. Full Dress Vest With Small Waisted Effect Variations ■7^>> ^foy^tnp' / Qi-ecl Diagram F. Illustrates variations for stoopingand erect. Solid lines show normal. Dash lines illustrate stooping, and dotted lines illustrate erect. Point H is half way between W and B. Stooping Square out from 10 by dash line finding point P. Stipulate variations of }i in., >4 in or % in. from B to 8. Draw a line from 8 through H and out as shown by dash line. Square up by same line from H, G and W and 8. Shape back, armhole, shoulder and opening as 8 to 10 is 1/3 breast measure, plus 3 in. shown by dash line and stooping is finished. 18 is found by sweeping back from P as in regu- lar draft. Erect Stipulate degrees of variation of 1,4 in., yi in. Square out from point 11 by dotted line, finding or % in. from B to 9. point M. Draw a line from 9 through H and out as shown 19 is found in regular manner by sweeping back by dotted line. from M. Square up by dotted line from \V, G, H and 9. Shape back, armhole, shoulders and opening as 9 to 11 is i/j breast measure, plus 3 in. shown by dotted line, and erect is finished. 92 Variations DIACC. Diagram G. Illustrates large and small blades. Solid lines illustrate normal ; dash lines show large blade, and dotted lines illustrate small blade. Stipulate degree of variation of J4 in., /^ in. or ^ in., varying from point G. G to 7 is for large blade and G to 8 is for small blade. It will be clearly seen that the width of the back moves in either direction as the front of scye is moved. For example : From H to 6 is same distance as G to 8, and from H to 5 is same distance as G to 7. Shape arnihole, shoulder and opening as shown by dash line for large blade. Shape armhole, shoulder and opening as shown bv dotted line for small blade. Variations Diagram H. Illustrates sloping and square. Solid lines illustrate normal ; dash lines show slop- ing, and dotted lines illustrate square. For Squatre Shoulder Stipulate variation from point B of J4 iri-, J^ in- or % in. from B to 8. Square out from 8. From E to D is same distance as B to 8. Y to 11 is same distance as E to D. Shape as shown by dotted line for square shoul- der. For Sloping Stipulate degree of variation by ^ in,, lA in. or % in. from point B to 9. Square out from 9 as shown by dash line. E to L is same distance as B to 9. Y to 10 is same distance as E to L. Points R and X remain same as normal vest. Shape shoulder and armhole as shown by dash line for sloping shoulder. Variations j^ng / Bit Of/ i^fifl . For Long Neck Stipulate degree of variation of '4 in., J/^ m. or }i in. for long neck from A to 5, and X to D. Square out from 5, and shape top of back, front and shoulder as shown by dotted lines for long neck. Diagram J. Illustrates long and short neck. Solid lines illustrate normal. Dash lines show short neck, dotted lines show long neck. Rule a line from H to X and out. For Short Neck Stipulate degree of variation of J4 i"-, /^ i'l- or 34 in. from A to 6 and X to L. Square out from 6 and shape top of back, front and shoulder as shown by dash line for short neck. Be sure to study incline and definition of types in connection with these diagrams of variations. 93 J^otch Collar Vest for Corpulent Figure Meatsures a.s Follows : Waist length 17 in. Opening 13 in. Full length 28 in. To side 23 in. Breast 42 in. Waist 42 in. Direct measures applied : Depth of scye lOYs in. Strap 13J/2 in. Blade 12>^ in. Over shoulder 19 in. Attitude, normal. To Dra.ft Square out and down from A. A to V is y^ breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is waist length. Square out B and C. B to F is % breast measure. F to H is \y2 in. B to S is J^ breast measure. S to G is 3 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2 in. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is ^ inch. Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Apply depth of scye from B to A. Apply blade measure plus 1 in. from B to G. Sweep back from 2, using point G as a pivot. From 2 to X is 3^ in. Rule a line from X to G and down. G to AA is 1/6 breast measure, or same distance as A to T. Apply strap measure plus ^ in. from AA to X. Rule a line from X to Z. Appl}!- over-shoulder measure plus 1 in. as shown in illustration from B to 13 and G to 14. 2 to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to is J/2 waist measure. C to M is 1 in. M to 11 is J/2 in., or ]4, in. for each size waist measure is over proportion. , 11 to 5 is ^ waist measure. 5 to 4 is 1 in. L to J is 1 in. G to P is 1/12 breast measure. Apply measure ftjr opening plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 8. Apply measure for full length plus IJ/2 in. from A to T and X to J. Apply measure to side plus 1 in. from A to T and X to 12. Add % in. to front at point X and shape opening as shown by solid lines, and shape front from 8 to and down. Shape from P to J and 12. Shape from P to 4 and 7. 11 to 10 is lJ-2 in. Shape from V to 11 and 10 to 12. K to E is ^ in. X to Y is same distance as R to E minus 34 in. Shape as shown in illustration from A to R and R to E. Shape armhole from E to P and Y to P. Shape shoulder as shown in illustration from Y to X. Place pocket and make plait in front of pattern as illustrated in draft and make opening between 3 and 9 oi ]4, iu- for each size vest is larger over waist than normal ; in this case it would be 3/2 in., and add 1/2 in. for seams at 6. Shape from 6 to J. Extend button stand of 9-4 inch to right side and finish. 96 N.otch Collar Vest for Corpulent Figure Clerical Vest MeaLSures a.s Follows: Waist length 17 in. Breast 38 in. Full length. 25i^ in. Waist 34 in. Side length 22 in. To Dra.ft All systematical points are obtained in the same which will serve as button stand. manner as for regular draft. Shape another part as indicated by dash line for From O to 8 is 1/6 breast measure. side where button holes are to be put in. Shape as indicated from X to 8. Place one button hole at point X and one op- Rule a line from where collar is attached down to posite Y and put six button holes at side. bottom at side as indicated by dotted line. Draw up collar as indicated in diagram and finish This will give you a separate part for right side , as shown. 98 TROUSERS SECTION The Supreme System for Trousers with Instructions How to Measure, How to Apply Measurements and Proportion Tables. LOFa ProportioncLte InseaLin of Trousers To be Used in Connection with the Table of Sizes for Coats. Breast 5-4 5-5 5-6 5-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6-ft. Seat 32 30f 31i 311 32} 32f 33} 33f 34} 34f 33 33 30i 31i 31i 321 32* 33i 33^ 34J 34* 34 34 301 m 31f 31| 32f 32| 33f 33J 34f 36 36 30i 30| 3U 31f 32} 32f 33} 33f 34} 36 36 30 30^ 31 3U 32 32* 33 33i 34 37 37 29f 30| 30| 3U 311 32| 32f 33} 33f 38 38 29f m 30f 3U 31f 32J 32f 33J 331 39 39 29^ 29J 30A 301 31i 31i 32* 32J 33* 40 40 29i 29f 30i 30f 31} 31f 32} 32f 33} 41 41 29i 29i 30J 30^ 31i 3H 32^ 32* 33J 42 42 28J 291 29| 30| 30J 31i 31i 32i 32| 43 43 28i 29J 29i 30} 30J 31} 31f 32} 32f 44 44 28^ 29 29i 30 30* 31 3U 32 32^ 46 46 281 281 29J 29f 301 30f 31f 31f 32} 46 46 28J 28f 29i 29f 30i 30| 31J 31f 32i 47 47 271 28* 28J 29* 29| 30^ m SH 31J 48 48 27f 28J 28i 29} 29f 30} 30i 31} 31| 49 ProportionaLte Rise in Trousers In Connection with Heights and Seat Measure. Seat 5-4 5-5 5-6 5-7 5-8 5-9 5-10 5-11 6-ft. 32 7* 7f 7i 7| 8 Si 8} 81 8^ 33 7f 7| 8 Si 8} 81 Si 8f 8f 34 8 Si 8} 8i 8i 81 8i 81 9 36 8} 81 8* 8f 8f 81 9 9i 9} 36 s* Sf 81 8t 9 n 9} 91 9i 37 81 . Si 9 n 9} 9| 9* 9f n 38 9 n 9} 9f 9^ 9f 91 91 10 39 9} 91 9* 9f 9f 9J 10 101 10} 40 9i 9f 9f 9J 10 10^ 10} lOf 10^ 41 9f 91 10 m 10} lOf 10* lOf lOf 42 10 m 10} lOf 10* 101 lOf lOt 11 43 10} 10| 10* lOf lOf lOi 11 Hi 11} 44 10* lOf lOf 101 11 Hi 11} Hi lU 45 lOf lOJ 11 iH 11} iif 11* HI llf 46 11 Hi 11} iif 11* iif 111 Hi 12 47 11} Hi 11* iif 111 111 12 12i 12} 48 11* iif 111 iij 12 121 12} 12f 12* Waistband not Included. 100 101 How to Measure Trousers At the start, request the customer to adjust his trousers so that they will fit up in the crotch to the extent desired. Next, have him stand erect so that the body rests well on the legs with the feet about 8 inches apart, so as to give free play for measurements. 1. Measure outside seam from point A at the waist to point B at the bottom. See illustration. 2. Measure for inside seam from point C close up in crotch to point F to the heel of the shoe. See illustration. 3. Measure waist all around the body over the waist band, drawing tape moderately tight. 4. Measure seat all around the body at point D, the most prominent part of the seat. Request the customer to stand with his heels together while this measurement is taken. This measurement should be taken moderately easy. For corpulent or stout figures, measurements may be taken over the abdomen half way between waist and seat. 5. Measure all around knee, as shown in illustration. 6. Measure all around bottom of trousers at point F. Measures for knee and bottom are subject to style and individual taste in a great measure. The regular measures for trousers when entered in the order book should stand as follows: Outside seam Seat Inside seam Knee Waist Bottom Having completed measurements, take a careful examination of the customer, and request him to place his heels together. Place your hand between his legs at knee. If there is a distance between the legs of two fingers' breadth, he is slightly bow-leg. Breadth of three fingers would indicate that he was bow-leg in medium degree, and the breadth of the hand would indicate bow-leg in the extreme degree. Notice whether he bends over or whether he requires a long front to trousers, or whether he has a large or flat seat ; notice whether he has large or small hip, and whether he spreads his feet out or keeps them close together when in a natural position. Note all these deformations in the measuring book so that in drafting a pattern you can use variations to overcome these difficulties. As far as measurements are concerned, it is possible to take them correctly relative to length and circumference, but unless the various attitudes and deformations have been stipulated at the time measurements were taken, thus enabling you to use variations in drafting, the result will be unsatisfactory. How to Measure Trousers 103 Proportionate Trousers Mea.surements a-s Follows: Outside length 41>4 in. Seat . .-. Inside length 32 in. Waist 32 in. 2)7 in. Knee 18 in. Bottom . . . . ■ 16 in. Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is J4 way between B and C. D to E is 2 in. Square out C, E and B. C to F is J4 seat measure. F to 6 is 3^ in. 6 to S is j^ seat measure. S to G is 34 in. H is 54 way between G and C. Square up from H. B to I is % seat measure. Rule a line from H to I. J to K is J4 waist measure. To Draft— Front Part J to L is ^ waist measure. M to O is ^ knee measure. M to V is ^ knee measure. I to R is ^ bottom measure. I to P is J4 bottom measure. Rule a line from K to F and from K to 6. Rule a line from O to R and from V to P. Shape as shown in illustration from L to C, V and down. F to T 1/6 seat measure. Shape from T to G and from K to S. Shape from G to O and from S to O. Reduce length of front 1 inch at point I and shape as shown in illustration from P to R. Front part finished. Bacck PaLrt Cut out front part. Place on another paper and draft back part as follows : Rule a line across from V to U and from P to N. Sweep forward from S, using point O as a pivot. Sweep forward from L, using point F as a pivot. Sweep backward from L, using point V as a pivot. Sweep backward from C. using point V as a pivot. S to W is 1/12 seat measure. O to U is 1 in. R to N is 1 in. Place corner of square at point T, letting long arm of same rest on point C, and square up from T to X. C to Z is \y2 in. Apply seat measure from 8 to T and 9 to 4. 4 to 5 is 1^ in. X to 3 is 34 waist measure plus 1 in. for seams. X to Y is 1/ seat measure plus 1 in. 3 to 1 is Vy in. Take out a V between 1 and 2 of the difiference between 3 and Y minus two seams. Shape as shown in illustration from X to T and down to VV, from W to U and down to N. Shape from Y to 5, Z, V, and down to P. Shape as shown in illustration from P to N. Shape from Y to 1 and 2 to X. Finished. 104 Proportionate Trousers 105 Peg Top Trousers Mea-sures Used a.s Follows: Outside seam 41 J/^ in. Inside seam 32 in. Waist i^ in. Seat 38 in. Bottom 16 in. Excess of size over hip 4 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in tiie same manner as in proportionate trousers with the excep- tion that the knee measure is ignored. Excess of size is J4 ii- for each inch of exaggeration from C to 5 ; in this case 1 in. Shape as shown bj' solid line from L to 5 and down to P. 5 to Z is IJ^ in. Shape back part as shown by solid line in illus- tration from Y to Z and down to P. Straighten lines at point on front part and shape as shown by solid line from S to R. Straighten line at point U on back part and shape as shown by solid lines from W to N. All other points remain the same as for regular draft and can be subjected to same variations as illus- trated and stipulated elsewhere. 106 Dress Trousers Produced from the following measures: Outside scam . . .40 in. Seat 36 in. Inside seam ....31 in. Knee 18 in. Waist 31 in. Bottom 15>4 in To Draft— Front Part Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is 5^ way between B and C. D to E is 2 in. Square out C, E and B. C to F is J/2 seat measure. F to 6 is 3^ in. 6 to S is ^ seat measure. S to G is ^ in. H is y2 way between G and C. Square up from H. B to I is l^ seat measure. Rule a line from H to I and square up from H. J to K and J to L are each % waist measure. M to O and M to V are each % knee measure. I to R and I to P are each % bottom measure. Shape as shown by dash line from L to C, V and down to P. Shape as shown b_y dash line from S to O and down to R. Rule a line from K to F and from K to 6. F to T is 1/6 seat measure. Shape as shown in illustration from T to G and from G to O and K to S. BaLck PaLrt Cut out front part, place same on another paper and draft back part as follows : Line across from P to N and V to U. Sweep forward from point S, using point O as a pivot. Sweep forward from point L, using point F as a pivot. Sweep back from L, using point V as a pivot. Sweep back from C, using point V as a pivot. S to W is 1/12 seat measure. O to U is 1 in. R to N is 1 in. C to Z is lYz in. Place corner of square at point T and let long arm of same rest on point C, and square up, finding point X. X to 3 is J^ waist measure. 3 to Y is 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from Y to Z, V and P, from Y to X, from X to T and W, and from W to U and N. Shape bottom as shown in illustration and finish as shown. Trousers for Corpulent Figure Measurements as Follows: Outside seam 43 in. Abdomen 47 in. Knee 21 in. Bottom 17 in. Inside seam 31 in. Seat 44 in. Waist 45 in. Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is ^ way between B and C. D to E is 2 in. Square out C, E and B. C to F is J4 seat measure. F to 6 is 5/2 in. 6 to S is J^ seat measure. S to G is ^ in. H is 3/2 way between G and C. Square up from H. B to I is % seat measure. Cut out front part and lay on another paper and draft back part as follows : Line across from P to N and V to U. Sweep forward from S, using point O as a pivot. Sweep forward from L, using point F as a pivot. Sweep back from L, using point V as a pivot. Sweep back from point C, using point V as a pivot. S to W is 1/12 seat measure. C to Z is lj4 in. Place corner of square at point T, letting long arm of same rest on C, and square up from T, finding point X. Apply seat measure from 15 to T and 1 to 4. 4 to 7 is 1^ in. Apply measure for abdomen from 9 to 8 and 2 to 10. To Draft Rule a line from H to I. Square up from F, finding point 11. J to K and J to L are each ^4 waist measure. From K to Q is same distance as from 11 to K. Rule a line from K to F and K to 6. F to T is 1/6 seat measure. Shape as shown in illustration from O to S and from Q to T and G. M to O and M to V are each y^ knee measure. I to R and I to P are each J4 bottom measure. Shape from L to C, V and down to P. Shape from S to O and down to R. Shape from G to O. Back Part 10 to 5 is 1 in. Apply waist measure from L to O and X to 3. From 3 to Y is 1 in. O to U is 1 in. R to N is 1 in. Shape as shown by solid line in illustration from Y to 5, 7, Z, V and down to P. Shape from Y to X and from X to 2, 1, T and down to W. Shape from W to U and down to N. Shape from P to N. If an easier pair of trousers be desired, sweep back part backward as shown by dash lines, take off % in. at X, adding same amount at 14, also adding same amount at point 12, and shape as shown by dash lines, and finish. 108 Trousers for Corpulent Figure Variations The upper part of this diagram ilhistrates the manner of handhng regular drafted pattern for long and short front. Solid lines illustrate normal, dash and dot lines illustrate long front, and dotted lines illustrate short front. Long Front Square back from point T, obtaining normal line. Stipulate degree of variation by ^4 '"■. Vz in- or % in. from T to 9. Rule a line from 9 to 25. Square up from 22, finding point 5. Square back and forth from 5 through L. From 5 to 2 and 5 to 4 are each >4 waist measure. Rule a line from 2 to 9. Shape as shown in illustration from 2 to 9 and down. Shape from 4 to 25. Shape from 4 to 2. Short Front Stipulate degree of variation by J4 i"-, V^ in. or % in. from T to 8. Rule a line from 8 to 25. Square up from 24, finding point 7. Square back and forth from 7 through L. Apply yi waist measure from 7 to 1 and 7 to 3 each. Rule a line from 1 to 8. Shape as shown by dotted lines from 1 to 8, 3 to 25, and 3 to 1. Open and Closed Trousers Lower part of this diagram illustrates how to vary trousers for open and closed ; also called large and small hip. Line drawn from H to I represents normal ; dotted line illustrates closed and dash and dot line illustrates open trousers. Closed Trousers For closed trousers stipulate degree of variation by Yi in., 1 in. or 1>4 in. from I to N. Rule a line from H to N. From N to 11 and N to 12 are each ]i bottom measure. 20 to 15 and 20 to 19 are each V4 knee measure. Shape as shown b\' dotted lines of illustration from S to 15 and 11. Shape from C to 19 and 12. Open Stipulate degree of variation In- ]A in.. 1 in. or lJ/2 in. from I to O. Rule as shown by dash and dot line H-Q. O to 13 and O to 14 are each y^ of bottom meas- ure. 21 to 16 and 21 to 18 are each J/4 knee measure. Shape as shown by dash and dot line from C to 18 and 14. Shape from S to 16 and 13. Variations Upper part of this diagram illustrates manner in which flat and large seat is obtained. Solid lines on back part illustrate normal; dash and dot lines illus- trate large, and dotted lines illustrate flat seat. Large Seat Stipulate degree of variation by >4 in., ]/> in. or ^ in. from T to 18. Place corner of square at 18, letting long arm of same rest on C, and square up as shown Ijy dash and dot line. X to 4 is same distance as T to 18. Measure up trousers in regular way, thereby find- ing point 7. W to 8 is half the distance from T to 18. Shape as shown in illustration from 7 to 4, 4 to 18, and 18 to 8. Shape from 8 to U. Shape as shown by dash and dot line from 7 down. Flat Seat Stipulate degree of variation by >-4 in., ^ in. or i/^ in. from T to 19. Place corner of square at 19, letting long arm of same rest on C. Square up from 19. X to 3 is same distance as T to 19. W to 9 is half the distance from T to 19. Measure for waist in regular way and shape as shown by dotted line in illustration from 10 to 3, 3 to 19 and 19 to 9. Shape from 9 to U and Y down. Bow Leg a-nd Knock Knee Lower part of this diagram illustrates the man- ner of varying for bow leg and knock knee. Line H-I illustrates normal ; dotted line illustrates bow leg, and dash and dot line knock knee. Bow Leg Stipulate degree of variation by >4 in. 1>4 in. from I to N for bow leg. Rule as shown by dotted line from M to N. N to 11 and N to 12 are each Y^ bottom measure. Rule as shown by dotted line from to 11. Rule from V to 12 for bow leg. Knock Knee Stipulate degree of variation by >2 in. 1>4 in, from I to O. Rule as shown by dash and dot line from M to Q. Q to 13 and O to 14 are each Y^ bottom measure. Rule as shown by dash and dot line from to 13 and V to 14 for knock knee. 1 m. or 1 m. or Combinations of Variations Mea.sures Used: Outside seam 42 in. Knee 19 in. Inside seam 32^4 in. Bottom 16 m. Waist 33 in. Definition of Typt-s — Small hip, knock knee, short gg^,. 39 in, front and large seat. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is half way between C and B. D to E is 2 in. Square out C, E and B. C to F is J/2 seat measure. F to 6 is )^ in. 6 to S is 5^ seat measure. S to G is % in. H is half way between G and C. Square up from H. B to I is % seat measure. I to 16 is 1 in. for small hip. Rule a line from H to 16. 16 to 18 is 1 in. for knock knee. Rule a line from M to 18. J to Q and J to K are each ^ waist measure. Rule a line from F to K. F to T is 1/6 seat measure. Square back from T, finding 15. T to 8 is ^ in. for short front. Rule a line from 8 to 15. Square up from 13, finding point 10. 10 to 5 and 10 to 12 are each }i waist measure. Rule a line from 5 to 8. M to and M to V are each ^ knee measure. 18 to R and 18 to P are each % of bottom meas- ure. Rule a line from to R. Rule a line from V to P. Shape front part as shown by dash line from 12 to 5 and 5 to 8 and G. Shape from 5 to S. Shape from S to 0. Shape from G to 0. Shaf>e from 12 to C and V. Shape from P to R as shown by dotted line, and front part is finished. Bsvck PeiLrt Cut out front part and lay same on another paper. Square out lines P-N and V-U. Sweep forward from S, using point as a pivot. Sweep forward from 12, using point F as a pivot. Sweep back from 12, using point V as a pivot. Sweep back from C, using point V as a pivot. T to 9 is J^ in. variation for large seat. Place corner of square at 9, letting long arm of same rest on point C, and square up from 9. 4 to X is same distance as T to 9. 5 to 22 is 1/12 seat measure. 22 to W is half the distance from T to 9. C to Z is llA in. Apply seat measure plus l}i in. from 8 to 15 and 9 to Z. Apply waist measure in regular manner with same additions as shown, and take out a V in back part, as shown in illustration. to U is 1 in. R to N is 1 in. Shape back part as shown by solid line of illus- tration from Y to 1, 2 to X, and X to 9 and W. Shape from W to U and U to N. Shape from Y to Z, V and P. Shape from P to N and finish. 112 Small Hip, Kjiock Kjie^t Short Front, Large Seat Combinations of Variations Measures Used : Outside seam 40^4 in- Knee 18 in. Inside seam 31 in. Bottom 15j^ in. Waist 29 in. Definition of Types — Large hip, bow leg, long Seat 37 in. front, flat seat, small waist. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to B is outside length. B to C is inside length. D is half way between B and C. D to E is 2 in. Square out C, E and B. C to F is J^ seat measure. F to 6 is 3^ in. 6 to S is 3^ seat measure. S to G is % in. H is h.alf way between C and G. Square up from H. From B to I is % seat measure. I to 16 is 1 in. for large hip. Rule a Hue from H to 16. 16 to 18 is 1 in. for bow leg. Rule a line from M to 18. J to K and J to Q are each J4 waist measure. Rule a line from F to K. F to T is 1/6 seat measure. C to 15 is 1/6 seat measure. Rule a line from T to 15. T to 9 is J/2 in. for long front. Rule a line from 15 to 9. Square up from 13 as shown by dash line, find- ing point 10. 10 to 5 and 10 to L are each 54 waist measure. Rule a line from 9 to 5. M to and M to V are each ^4 knee measure. 18 to R and 18 to P are each % bottom measure. Shape front part as shown by dotted line from 5 to S and 5 to 9 and G. Shape from L to C. Rule a line from to R. Rule a line from V to P. Shape as shown by dash line from S to 0. Shape from G to 0. Shape from C to V, and front part with variations stipulated is complete. Back Part Cut out front part and lay on another paper. Rule across from V to U, and P to N. Sweep forward from S, using point as a pivot. Sweep forward from L, using point F as a pivot. Sweep back from L, using point V as a pivot. Sweep back from C, using point V as a pivot. From T to 8 is 5^ in., amount of change for small seat. Lay corner of square at point 8, letting long arm of same rest on point C, and square up from 8. From 4 to X is same distance as from T to 8. S to 7 is 1/12 seat measure. From 7 to W is half the distance from T to 8. to U is 1 in. R to N is 1 in. C to Z is 1^ in. Apply seat measure plus \j/\ in. from 9 to 15 and T toZ. Apply waist measure in regular manner. Take out a V in back part, as shown in illustra- tion. Shape from Y to 1, 2 to X, X to S and W. Shape from W to U and N. Shape from Y to Z, V and P. Shape from P to N and finish as shown. 114 Large Hip, Bowleg, Long Front, Flat Seat, Small Waist J^nickers with Cuffs Jittached These knickers are drafted best from the regular measure of trousers, with a snug measure taken around the knee. The Following are the Meas\irements Used: Outside 41 J4 i"- Seat 17 Inside 32 in. Knee 13 Waist 32 in. Bottom of cuff 13 1/^ in To Draft in. in. Square out and down from A. A to C is 934 inches, being the distance between the outside and inside seam lengths. C to D is J/2 the actual length of the leg. D to E is 2y2 in. E to B is 3^ in. for cuffs. Square out from C, D, E and B. C to F is ^ of the seat measure plus J2 in. F to S is J^ of the seat measure. S to G is 1/24 of the seat measure. H is half way between G and C. Square up and down from H. J to K is ^ of the waist measure. Rule a line from F to K. K to P is y. in. Rule a line from P to J and out to L. J to L is J4 of the waist measure. Square up from J. Sweep back from L, using point N as the pivot. Square out from S. J to X is 1/6 of the seat measure. Rule a line from T to X. 9 to Z is XYz in. I to 4 and I to 5 are each ^X in. more than one- third of the knee measure. M to U and M to V are each % in. more than one-third of the knee measure. Apply bottom measure of cuff across the front part and from 7 to 8 on back part and add to same 1 in. I to R is 1% in. Square down from R. M to N is ^ of the knee measure. C to 9 is >4 in. Shape from L to 9 and R and down to the bottom. R to O is one-third of the knee measure, 13 on the thirds. Square down from Q. N to O is i;'j of the knee measure. F to T is 1/6 of the seat measure. Shape from P to T and S, allowing J4 in- at T. Shape from P to T and G, reducing 54 i"- at T. Shape from S to O and Q down to the bottom. Shape from G to O. Place your front part on another paper and com- mence drafting. Back Part X to 2 is the waist measure plus 1 in. X to Y is the seat measure plus 1 in. Take out a V as indicated by 1 and 6, amounting to the distance between 2 and Y minus two seams. Shape back part from Y to Z, V, 5 and 8. S to W is 1/12 seat measure plus Yz in. Shape from Y to 6, 1 to X, X to T and T to W. Shape from W to U, 4 and 7. Shape from 8 to 7. The cuff closes with 4 buttons and holes. A button stand is allowed on the back part as indicated bv dotted line from 5 to 8. 116 Knickers with Cuffs Attached in li^lding Breeches Mea.sures as Follows: Rise 10 in. Waist 33 in. Seat 39 in. Length to knee 14^^ in. Length to small knee l"^^ in. Full length 26 in. Width of knee U% in. Width of small knee IZyz in. Width of calf Uy2 in. Width of bottom 10 in. Length to calf 2U '2 m. Square out and down from A. A to B is the rise, or 10 in. Square out from B. B to C is 3^ of seat measure. C to D is 1/12 of seat measure. D to E is 1/12 of seat measure. F is half way between D and B. C to N is >4 in. Place corner of square at F, letting short arm of same rest on N and square down as shown by dash lines in center of trousers. F to H is length to knee or 14>>4 in., plus 3^ in. F to I is the length to small knee or 17^/2 in. F to J is the length to calf or 21 J4 in. F to G is full length or 26 in. Square both ways from H. Square both ways from L Square both ways from J and G. H to O is J4 knee measure. Place the front part on another paper. Extend line at K. From K to X is 1/6 seat measure, plus J-4 in. Rule a line from D to X. E to 2 is ly in. Shape as indicated from X to 2. Extend the line from M, Apply waist measure plus 1 in. from L to M and X to W. Z to 10 is 2 in. Apply knee measure plus 1 in. from P to Q anil O to 4. To Draft I to R is 34 small knee measure. J to T is 34 calf measure and G to Y is 34 of ankle measure. Square up from F. K to L is 34 waist measure. K to M is 34 waist measure. Rule a line from D to L. Drop the front }^ in. at L and shape as indicated from L to E, E to Q, Q to R, R to T and T to Y. Take out a V of 34 in. at Q as shown in this illus- tration. H to P is I34 in- and G to V is 1 in. H to O is 334 in. Square back from O. B to Z is 134 in. Shape as indicated from M to Z, Z to P and P to V. Extend the waistband and place the split fall in the manner illustrated in the diagram and cut out the front part. BeiLck Pevrt Apply small knee measure plus 1 in. from S to R and R to 5. Apply calf measure plus 1 in. from U to T and T to 7. Take out a ^^ of 1 34 in. in the back at point G and apply ankle measure plus 134 in. from V to Y, Y to G and V to 8. Shape as indicated from W to 10, 10 to 4, 4 to 5, 5 to 7 and 7 to 8. Cut off the back part from 4 to R in the manner indicated in this diagram and take out 1 in. at the center line. Extend the waistband and finish as represented. Riding Breeches 119 liiding Breeches The draft is produced from the following nieas- tirements : Rise 9>4 in. Inseam Z2 in. Waist 32 in. Seat H Knee 17 Small knee 13>^ Calf 14 Ankle 10 m. in. in. in. in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to C is the rise, or 9y2 in. C to E is 2 in. less than ^4 of the inseam measure, or 14 in. C to B is 2y2 in. less than the inseam measure. E to D is 3 in. is half way between B and D. Square out C, E, D, O and B. C to F is 1/ of the seat measure, plus 3-2 in. F to S is 3/^ of the seat measure. S to G is 1/24 of the seat measure. H is half way between G and C. Square up from H. B to I is same distance as C to H. Rule a line from H to I. J to K is % of the waist measure. K to Q is J<^ in. Rule a line from Q to J and out. J to L is 34 of the waist measure. Rule a line from F to K. F to T is 1/6 of the seat measure. 17 to 22 is 34 of the knee measure. M to 12 and Al to 13 are each 34 of the small knee measure. Back Cut out the front part and place same on another paper. Square across at knee, small knee, calf and ankle. Square up from J. Sweep from S to W, using point 18 as the pivot. Sweep from L to Y, using point 20 as the pivot. J to X is 1/6 of the seat measure. S to W is 1/12 of the seat measure, plus 3^ in. Rule a line from T to X. Apply waist measure plus 1 in. from X to 2. Apply seat measure plus 1 in. from X to Y. Take out a V at 1 and 4 amounting to the dis- tance between 2 and Y minus two seams. 17 to P is 2 in. M to U is % of an inch. M to V is J^ of an inch. 1 to 7 and I to 8 are each 34 in. Points 7 and 8 are 34 in. above point I. Shape as indicated from P to 17, U to 28 and 7. Shape from P to V, 28 and 8. 18 to 21 is 34 in. 28 to 11 and 28 to 14 are each 34 of the calf measure. I to 5 and I to 6 are each 34 of the ankle meas- ure. M to 24 is 134 in. 28 to 10 is 1 in. I to 9 is 3/1 in. 17 to 20 is 1/6 of the knee measure. Shape from L to C, extending 34 in. at C, 20, 24, 10 and 9. In order to have the outside run well toward the front, the front part is thus reduced, and while the average amount is given, the exact amount cut off from the fore part would vary a little, according to style ; whatever is taken off the front part must be added to the back part. Shape from to T and S, extending 14 i"- a-t T. Shape from Q to T and G, reducing 34 in. at T. Shape from S to 18, 12, 11 and 5. Shape from G to 18. Extend the waistband from L to K and the front part is completed. Part 12 to 2i and 11 to 15 are each 1 in. 5 to R is 134 in. Apply knee measure plus I34 in. from 18 to 20, 21 and 27. Apply small knee measure plus I34 in. from 12 to 24, 23 to U and V to 25. Apply the calf measure plus 134 in. from 11 to 10, IS and 16. Apply ankle measure plus 13/ in. from 5 to 6, R to 7 and 8 to N. Shape side of back part from Y to Z, 27, 25, 16 and N. Shape from Y to 4, 1 to X, X to T and T to W. Shape from W to 21, 23, 15 and R. Shape from N to 8 and 7 to R. Extend waistband to the top of breeches. The inside reinforcement extends from crotch down to calf, as shown in the diagram ; shape rein- forcement in a like manner and finish as shown. 120 Hiding Breeches 121 Spring Bottom Trousers All systematical points for this kind of trousers are obtained in the regular manner with the exception of the bottom. Suppose measures to be: Knee 17 m. Bottom 20 in. To Draft From I to 6 is 4^^ in. Square back and forth from 6. Extend y^ in. extra length to front part at point I. Make no other changes to front part from regu- lation. R to B is J/2 bottom measure. P to N is y2 bottom measure plus 1 in. R to 9, 2 to 3 and O to U are each 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from V to 5 and B. Shape from U to 3 and N. Shape from B to I and N and finish as repre- sented. 122 Broad Falls and Split Falls I Broad Falls Broad fall trousers are cut the same as any other trousers, with the ex- ception that the fall-bearer is an ad- dition. The first diagram shows the broad fall pants, the solid line showing the fall-bearer. Six buttonholes are usual in the fall and as many buttons in the fall- bearer. The bearer is cut high enough to make up for the waistband. The opening in the side is two- thirds of the rise of the waist, or about 7 or 8 inches. Pockets are put in the bearer as indicated. On the back part which the dotted line indicates, a waistband must be added. Split Falls The lower diagram shows the older style or split fall. The width of the fall is one-sixth of the waist measure, and the open- ing is finished with a strap ^ inch wide, the end turned in so as to make it point as shown in the dia- gram. In other respects they are mafle like the broad falls. Over Gaiters and Leggings A C P ^ I Over-gaiters are sometimes cut as liigh as to the knee, but on an average 9 inches in height. We therefore give a diagram of the average, and by using the same method for the long gaiter it can so be produced : Mea.surements Used: Length 9 in. Ankle 11 in. Leg 12>< in. Instep 16 in. Calf 13 in. Bottom 23^ in. To Draft Draw a straight line from A to U. Square across from A. A to U is the length of the gaiter. U to C is 4 in. R is half way between U and C. C to B is 4 in. Square across at B, C and U. Square back from R. C to E is one-fourth of the ankle measure. Square up line from E to F and G. G to P is one-half the measure around the leg plus y> in. F to N is one-half the measure around the calf plus J^ in. E to K is one-half the measure around the ankle plus 3^ in. E to M is one-half of the instep measure plus y2 m. M to S is one-half of the bottom measure plu.s yi in. Shape as shown in the diagram from G, F, E and S, S to U, and M, and from P to N. K and M. Buttons should be placed in the middle of the line, and in order to obtain this, add to both hack and front Ti. in. from line A U. Put on heel straps at L' and finish as shown. Mea.su rements Used a-s Follows: Length 15 in. Knee 13 in. Calf 13K' i"- Ankle 11 in. To Dracft Rule a line from A to R. A to R is the length of the legging. A to B is 3,'/. in. R to C is 1% in. Square back and forth from A, B, C and R. A to P is one-half the knee measure plus Yi in. B to N is one-half the calf measure plus ^ in. C to K is one-half the ankle measure plus J^j in. Square down from K. Shape as indicated from P to X and K. A to O and R to L are each 2"^ in. Rule a line from L to O ; this is where you place the buttons. A to G and R to S are each 2^ in. Rule a line from G to S. L to U is 1 '4 in. Square up from U and make this the button stand. Shape as indicated from G to F and down to the bottom, extending one inch at S. Shape the button stand as indicated by extending one inch at U. Place buttons on the side as shown in this diagram and finish as shown. 124 MILITARY, LIVERY and SPORTING GARMENTS 125 Description of Garments for Officers of the Army Fvill Dress Coat For all officers, except Chaplains. — A double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with standing collar ; the skirt to extend from one-half to three-quarters the distance from the point of the hip to the l)end of the knee ; the lining to be black, with pockets on the inside of the skirt. For general officers the collar will be made of blue black velvet ; the sleeve will have a cuff of blue black velvet 4 inches wide. For other officers the collar will be made of the same material as the coat, and the cufTs will simply be a continuation of the material of the sleeves. SHOULDER ORNAMENTS.— For general officers, epaulets. For all other officers, shoulder knots of gold wire cord, to be securely fastened to the coat, and to be made detachable for all officers. COLLAR ORNAMENT. — The ornamentation of the collar for the General will be such as he may prescribe ; for the Lieutenant General, such as he may prescribe after consultation with the General. For other general officers the collar will be ornamented with a band of oak leaves embroidered in gold, and extending all the way around. For all other officers the ornament will consist of two bands of J/2 inch gold wire lace, two vel- lums, passing all around the collar and parallel with its edge, the upper edge of the upper band being y^ inch from the edge of the collar, the lower edge of the lower band resting on the collar seam. The upper band to be brought down parallel to the front edge of the collar and distant 34 inch there- from, and to be joined to the lower band. The two bands of gold wire lace to be on a ground of silk or cloth of the color of the facings of the corps, department or arm of the service, with an interval of not less than J4 inch nor more than V^ inch between the bands. SLEEVE ORNAMENT. — The ornamentation of the sleeve for the Generals will be such as he may prescribe ; for the Lieutenant General, such as he may prescribe after consultation with the General. For other general officers the velvet cuff of the sleeve will be ornamented with a band of oak leaves embroidered in gold passing around the cuff ; the top of the band of oak leaves to be 1 inch below the upper edge of the velvet cuff; to be surmounted by two stars for a major general and one star for a brigadier general, embroidered in silver, each star to have one point up and placed above the velvet cuff. For general officers of the staff departments, except the General Staff' Corps, the proper insignia will be placed 1 inch above the velvet cuff, and the stars, as before, 1 inch above the insignia. For all other officers the sleeve will be ornamented with a band of Yi inch gold wire lace, two vellums, passing around the cuff 2^-2 inches from the end of the sleeve ; to be surmounted by the insignia of rank, indicated by flat gold wire lace Y^ inch in width. The insignia of the corps, department or arm of service, in gold or silver metal or embroidery will be placed in the center of the open space under the lace insignia. BUTTONS. — Two regulation gilt buttons will be placed at the back of the waist, and one regulation gilt button near the end of each skirt, making four buttons on the back of the coat, for all officers. Three small regulation gilt buttons will be placed on the cuff at sleeve for general officers only. For officers of the various grades regulation gilt buttons will be placed on the breast of the coat as follows : GENERAL. — Two rows, twelve in each row, placed bv fours, the distance between rows being from 8 to 10 inches at the top and from 4 to 5 inches at the bottom ; rows and groups to be symmet- rically disposed. 121) U. S. Army Uniforms i LINE OFFICER'S FULL DRESS DISMOUNTED SOCIAL DRESS UNIFORM 127 U. S. Jirmy Uniforms LIEUTENANT GENERAL. — The same as for the General, except that there will be ten buttons in each row, the upper and lower groups by three and the middle groups by fours. MAJOR GENERAL. — The same as for the General, except that there will be nine buttons in each row, placed by threes. BRIGADIER GENERAL.— The same as for the General, except that there will be eight buttons in each row, placed in pairs. COLONEL, LIEUTENANT COLONEL AND MAJOR.— The same as for the General, except that there will be nine buttons in each row, buttons at equal intervals. CAPTAIN, FIRST LIEUTENANT, SECOND LIEUTENANT AND ADDITIONAL SECOND LIEUTENANT. — The same as for a Colonel, except that there will be seven buttons in each row. FOR THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS.— The same as that of general ofificers, with the following exceptions : Piping: A piping of scarlet velvet >^ inch wide, to be placed along the upper and outer edges of the lapels, continuing down the edges of the skirt to the bottom, and from top of back flaps in middle of back to bottom of skirt. Skirt Facings: To be of scarlet velvet with one row of Yz inch gold two-line vellum thread lace placed upon white braid, showing 3-32 inch of braid on each side, }4 inch from the outer edge of the scarlet velvet, following the vertical and horizontal lines, with a regulation gilt button placed in the lower corner of the scarlet velvet just inside the gold lace. For all other officers of the Corps of Engineers. — The same as for other officers, with the following exceptions : Piping: A piping of scarlet cloth yi inch wide, to be placed around the base of neck, the edge of collar lace along top, and down the front edge of lapel, stopping at the bottom, and from top of back flap in the middle of the back to the bottom of skirt. Skirt Facings: To be of scarlet cloth with one row of J/' inch gold wire two-vellum lace placed upon white braid, showing 3-32 inch of braid on each side, ^4 inch from the outer edge of the scarlet cloth, following the vertical and horizontal lines, with a regulation gilt button placed in the lower corner of the scarlet cloth just inside the gold lace. For Chaplains. — A black frock coat, without ornamentation, with standing collar, one row of nine black silk buttons on the breast. Of same length as for other officers. Dress Coat For general officers. — A sack coat of dark blue cloth or serge; three small regulation gilt buttons will be placed on the cufT at sleeve ; high rolling collar ; double breasted, with two rows of regulation gilt buttons grouped according to rank, as on the full dress coat ; the skirt to extend one-third the distance from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee. A slit extending from 2 inches above to 2 inches below the hip, so as to permit of hooking up of saber. A shoulder strap will be placed on each shoul- der, adjacent to the seam, and collar ornaments on the collar. Inside pockets. For all other officers. — A single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth or serge, with standing collar fastened with two hooks and eyes ; coat to close with flap containing suitable concealed fastenings ; slit not exceeding 3 inches for hooking up saber ; the skirt to extend from one-third to two-thirds the distance from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee, according to the height of the wearer : cut to fit the figure easily; a vertical opening at each side of the hip, according to pattern. The coat to be trimmed with lustrous flat black mohair braid 1^4 inches wide, as follows: Edged all around the bottom, the front edges, the collar, and for 6 inches upward from the bottom along both side openings of the skirt. Shoulder straps and collar ornaments will be worn with this garment. Service Coat For all officers. — A single-breasted sack coat of olive drab woollen material or khaki-colored cotton material, made with two outside breast choked-bellows pockets and two outside pockets of same pat- tern below the waist ; pockets to be without plaits and covered by flaps, rounded at edges, buttoned by 128 U. S. Army Uniforms FIELD OFFICER— MOUNTED GENERAL OFFICER'S UNIFORM 129 a small regulation button. The coat to have falling collar, from 1 to 1;54 inches in width, depending on the wearer. On each shoulder a loop of the same material as the coat let in at shoulder seam and reaching from the sleeve seam to the edge of the collar, and buttoning at the upper end with a small regulation button; loops to be 2 inches wide at the shoulder end and 1 inch wide at the collar end. The coat to fit closely at the waist and loosely at the chest, at least 5 inches in excess of the chest measure- ment ; buttoned down the front with five regulation buttons. The skirt to extend one-third the dis- tance from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee. Sleeves to be without cufTs. All buttons for this coat to be of dull finish bronze metal. Collar ornaments will be worn with this garment. The insignia of rank will be placed on the shoulder loop, near the sleeve seam. Chaplains will wear a plain Latin cross of dull finish bronze metal in lieu of the insignia of rank. Officers of the General Staff Corps, except the Chief of Staff, will wear a band of black braid i/S inch wide on the sleeve of the service coat, the lower edge of the braid 3 inches from the end of the sleeve. White Coa.t For all officers. — A single-breasted sack coat of white material, with standing collar fastened with two hooks and eyes, white metal ; coat to close with a flap containing suitable concealed fastenings. The skirt to extend from one-third to two-thirds the distance from the point of the hip to the bend of the knee, according to the height of the wearer ; cut to fit the figure easily ; a vertical opening at each side of the hip, according to pattern. The coat to be trimmed with white flat braid 1J4 inches wide, as follows : Edged all around the bottom, the front edges, the collar, and for 6 inches upward from the bottom along both side openings of the skirt. White shoulder loops of the same material as the coat, let in at shoulder seams, and of the pattern prescribed for the service coat. Insignia on the collar to be the same as prescribed for the dress coat ; insignia of rank to be placed on the shoulder loop, as prescribed for the service coat. OvercoBLt For all officers. — A double-breasted ulster of olive drab woolen material, suitably lined, and closing by means of five large buttons 45 lines diameter; a standing rolling collar, the "stand" to be not less than }i nor more than lj4 inches, and the turn down (falling) part not less than 4 nor more than 5 inches in width. Collar in front to be closed by two hooks and eyes; a flap of same material as the coat, 5 inches in length and 2 inches in width, provided with one buttonhole at each end, made de- tachable, so as to close the falling part of the collar when worn closed. A pocket on each side, placed vertically, lower end of pocket 2 inches below the hip bone, extending from 8 to 10 inches upward. Over the pockets a flap of same length, rounded at edges and closed by a small button at middle of flaps. Slits of pockets to be cut through linings, thus permitting the slings to come through left pocket hole for hooking up of saber. The back to be slit up from the bottom 20 to 25 inches and closed by small buttons under concealed flap, the latter buttoning from right to left. Coats to extend down the legs from 8 to 10 inches below the knee, according to the height of the wearer. Sleeves loose, without cuffs or slit. Back straps placed at waist line, let in at the side seams, and to button together by two large buttons. A hood of same material as coat, lined with suitable material of same color; made to button around the neck under the collar by means of five small buttons. Hood to be large enough to cover the head and cap. When in garrison the hood will ordinarily be worn only at night or in inclement weather. Under arms, only when prescribed by the commanding officer. All buttons to be of horn, conforming in color to the material of the coat. The front corners of the skirt to be provided with buttons or hooks, so that said corners may be turned back when it is necessary to facilitate marching. Insignia on Sleeve. — Sleeve insignia of rank as prescribed : in addition thereto the insignia of corps. U. S. Army Uniforms MILITARY OVERCOAT MILITARY CAPE 131 department, or arm of service, of diill finish bronze metal, will be placed in the middle of the lower loop 13^ inches above the end of the sleeve. For general officers the insignia will consist of a band of lustrous black mohair braid, 1,'4 inches wide, placed with its lower edge 2^ inches above end of sleeve ; surmounted by the proper number of stars, 1 inch in diameter, of dull finish bronze metal, placed % inch above the braid ; the stars to be surmounted by a band of lustrous black mohair braid 3^ inch wide, 34 inch above the stars. Overcoats for chaplains to be without insignia of rank. Officers of the General Stafif Corps, except general officers, will wear a band of black mohair braid % inches wide on the sleeve, the lower edge of braid to be l^A inches above the end of the sleeve, the lower ends of the prescribed insignia of rank to rest upon the upper edge of this band. Cacpes For all officers. — To be of dark blue cloth without braid binding, reaching at least to the tips of the fingers with the arm dropped at the side, and not below the knee ; with a rolling collar of black velvet 3 inches broad, and closing at the throat with a long loop. It may be worn by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms. To be lined as follows : For general officers and officers of the Staff Corps and departments. — Dark blue. For officers of infantry. — Light blue. For officers of artillery. — Scarlet. For officers of cavalry. — Yellow. Full Dress Trousers For general officers. — Of dark blue cloth, with two stripes of gold wire lace 3^ inch wide with 34 inch interval between them, mounted upon light weight velvet of color of cuffs and collar of coat and placed along the outside seam of the trousers. In the case of the Chief of Engineers the interval between the two stripes shall be scarlet velvet. For officers holding permanent appointments in the Staff Corps and departments, except Engineers. — Of dark blue cloth, with one stripe of gold wire lace Y^ inch wide along each outside seam. For officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry. — C)f sky blue cloth with stripes 13^ inches wide, welted at the edges ; the color of the stripes to be that of the facings of the respective corps or arms, except that for officers of infantry the stripes shall be white. For all officers of the Corps of Engineers. — Of dark blue cloth, with stripes of scarlet cloth 13/$ inches in width, with a piping of white cloth 34 inch in width. For chaplains. — Of plain black or blue black cloth, without stripe, welt or cord. Dress Trousers For general officers, officers holding permanent appointments in the Staff Corps and departments, ex- cept Engineers. — Of dark blue cloth without stripe, welt or cord, except that for the Chief of Artillery the trousers shall be of light blue cloth with the addition of a stripe of scarlet cloth I3X inches wide. For all other officers. — The same as for full dress. White Trovisers For all officers. — Of plain white material to match the white coat, without stripe, welt or cord. Service Trousers For all officers. — Of olive drab, woolen, or khaki-colored cotton material, to match the coat, without stripe, welt or cord. Dress Breeches For all officers. — Of same material and with same stripes as dress trousers, cut in the prescribed pattern and fastened from the knee down with dark bone buttons of appropriate size or with laces. Service Breeches For all officers. — Of olive drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to match the service coat, 132 U. S. Army Uniforms \: DRESS UNIFORM SUMMER UNIFORM 133 without stripe, welt or cord. To be made loose about the seat and above the knees ; to fit closely below the knee, extending to the tops of the shoes, and to be fastened with tapes or laces or buttons. . To have a re-enforced or saddle piece of the same material on the seat and legs for officers required to be mounted. Uniform for Evening Wear The commanding officer will designate the uniform for evening wear on all occasions of a general or official character occurring within the limits of his command. For occasions of special formality, the uniform for evening functions shall be the prescribed full dress dismounted uniform. For other occasions of ceremony to which officers are invited in their official capacity, such as balls, official dinners, official receptions, etc., and formal mess dinners, the following special full dress uniform is authorized, and officers are at liberty to wear it or the full dress dismounted uniform : An evening dress coat of dark blue cloth cut on the lines of the civilian dress coat, with the gilt but- tons of the same number and place as regulation requires ; the sleeves of this coat to be ornamented for all officers in the same manner as the sleeves of their full dress uniform coats. A waistcoat of dark blue or white, cut low with full open bosom, three small gilt regulation but- tons, should be worn with this coat; also full dress trousers by all officers except those of engineers, cavalry, artillery and infantry, who will wear dark blue trousers without stripes, patent leather shoes and full dress cap. Shoulder ornaments for general officers will be epaulets or shoulder knots ; for other officers, except chaplains, shoulder knots. On proper occasions which are not official in character, officers are authorized to wear civilian evening dress. Mess Jacket Officers of the staff corps and departments, the corps of artillery and the regiments of cavalry and infantry are authorized to adopt a "mess jacket" distinctive of their corps, department or regiment. To be made of dark blue cloth. Body of jacket to be cut like evening dress coat, to descend to point of hips, slightly curved to a peak behind and in front; five buttonholes on lapels, three buttons of regu- lation coat size on each side, placed IJ^ inches from bottom, and spaced 2 to 3j^ inches apart. Sleeves to be ornamented same as full dress coat. Such further distinctive ornamentation of this jacket as may be desired by the organizations named is authorized, but when once adopted the "mess jacket" for any particular organization shall not be changed without authority of the Secretary of War on the recom- mendation of a majority of the officers interested. With this jacket will be worn the detachable shoulder knot provided for full dress coat; also vests of the color of the coat or white. Commanding officers may in the tropics or in the warm season authorize the white trousers to be worn with this jacket. Black shoes will always be worn with this jacket. Professors and associate professors of the United States Military Academy holding permanent ap- pointments as such, will wear the full dress and dress uniforms of officers of the Military Secretary's Department, omitting the aiguillettes. DESCRIPTION OF GARMENTS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF UNIFORM FOR ENLISTED MEN OF THE ARMY Dress Coat A single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth, fastened with six regulation buttons down the front ; standing collar ; shoulder loops, of the same material and color, let in at the shoulder seam and to but- ton to the collar with a small regulation button ; the sleeves to have a cuiT, ornamented with three small regulation buttons. The collar, shoulder loops and cufifs to be piped with "cord edge braid" of the color of corps, department or arm of service. The color of the braid for Engineers, Ordnance, Hospital Corps and Signal Corps to be mixed in alternate stripes. U. S. Army Uniforms CHAPLAIN KNIGHT TEMPLAR UNIFORM J 35 Collar ornaments for enlisted men, of _vellow material similar to those for officers, will be placed on this coat in the same manner as on the dress coat of the officers. Musicians and trumpeters will wear the insignia of regiment or corps on their coat collars. Band musicians a lyre, same as worn on cap. Breast Cord Cords and tassels of mohair of the color of the corps, department or arm of the service, to be at- tached to the dress coat, beginning at the button of the left shoulder loop, one cord passing in rear of the neck and the other in front, under the first button of the coat, crossing under the right shoulder loop and brought together under the right arm with a slide, then passing across the breast between the third and fourth buttons and attached to the left shoulder button. Service Coat A sack coat of olive drab woolen material or khaki-colored cotton material conforming in design and cut to the service coat for officers. The same collar ornaments will be placed on this coat as on the dress coat, except that all buttons and metal ornaments will be of dull finish bronze metal. White Coat A sack coat of bleached cotton duck. Collar ornaments to be the same as prescribed for the dress coat. Fatigue Coat For ail enlisted men. — Of brown cotton duck. Overcoats For all enlisted men. — Of olive drab woolen material, general design and cut to be that of the officers' overcoat, the buttons to be of dull finish bronze metal. Dress Trousers For all enlisted men. — (_)f sky blue kersey. Stripes for Trousers Stripes to be of cloth of the following colors : Cavalry. — Yellow. ( )rdnance. — Black, piped with scarlet. Artillery. — Scarlet. Post Quartermaster Sergeants. — Buff. Infantry. — White. Post Commissary Sergeants. — Cadet gray. Engineers. — Scarlet, piped with white. Hospital Corps. — Orange, piped with white. Army service detachment of the United States Military Academy, West Point, N. Y. — Buft'. All noncommissioned officers above the rank of corporal will wear stripes 1>4 inches in width, in- cluding pipings. All corporals will wear stripes ^^ inch wide, including pipings. Musicians and trumpeters will wear two stripes, each ;/ inch wide. White Trousers Of bleached ciittun duck, without stripes. Canvas Fatigue Trousers Of brown cotton duck, without stripes. Service Breeches of olive drab woolen or khaki-colored cotton material, to match the service coat. To be worn with- out stripes; to be made loose above the knee, fitting closely below the knee, extending to the tops of the shoes, and fastened with tapes or laces ; to be worn with shoes and leggings. For mounted use, to have a reinforced or saddle piece of the same material on seat and legs. The general design of the breeches will conform to the pattern prescribed for officers. DIAGRAMS for UNIFORMS. LIVERY and SPORTING COSTUMES 137 Frock Uniform for U. S, Army Officers, Mounted and Unmounted Proportionate draft subject to height, variations Measurements as Follows: and supplementary measurements. Note that in mih- Natural waist 1/ ni. , , X I „ Fashionable waist I8J/2 in. tary garments proportion is ciianged so as to make -r- ,, , 1 ii ■ ^ ^ ^ _ Full length ii in. blade K' 'i- smaller, and waist measure is 1 in. less Breast " 36 in. than proportion, which would be preferable in all Waist 31 in. military garments. Seat 57 in. To Draft Square out and down from A. Shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to A to V is 1/3 breast measure. 11, 11 to 23, 23 to 8 and down. V to B is 3 in. . L to M is 2 in. A to C is natural waist length. M to 4 is >^ waist measure. A to D is fashionable waist length. 4 to U is waist suppression, divided in three eqiml A to E is full length of coat. parts, as Figures 4, 2 and 3 indicate. Square out B, C, D and E. 8 to 7 is 2/3 waist suppression, or same distance B to F is 1/3 breast measure. as 2 to U. F to H is 1 in. 7 to 6 is >4 waist measure. • B to S is ^ breast measure. 6 to 5 is 1/3 waist suppression, or same distance S to G is 3 in. as 4 to 2. G to W is l/'6 breast measure. 24 to 10 is ■)4 in. B to N is breast measure. Point 20 is ^ in. below fashionable waist line. N to I is 2j4 in. Point 21 is 3/2 in. below fashionable waist line. Square up and down from I. _ Square down from 24. Square up from W. R"le a line from G to 23. Square up and down from G. 23 to 13 is 3/s in. Square up from H. Shape as shown in illustration from 13 to 7 and Sweep back from point 1 to X, using point G as down to 10. a pivot. Shape as shown in illustration from S to 6 and 20. 1 to X is yi in. Shape from S to 5 and 21. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. Shape bottom of side body from 24 to 20. T to R is ^ in. Shape bottom of front part from 21 to 35. Rule a line from W to R. X to Y is same distance as R to 11 minus 3/s in. Square back from point K. finding ])oint Z. Q to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from X to Z. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y Square out from X by balance line. to 13. X to Q is 1/6 breast measure. Shape shoulder from Y to X. L to is J4 waist measure. Shape neckhole from X to P. Shape as shown in illustration from O to I, and Shape front as shown in illustration from P to 22 down as dotted lines. and down to 9. 22 to 9 is 1/6 breast measure plus jA in. Take out V stipulated between 27 and 35. Square back from 9. From 33 to 30 is same distance as 33 to P. 9 to 27 is 334 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 30 to 31. 27 to 35 is same distance as 9 to 34. 30 to 28 is 4 in. C to U is y2 in. 26 to 25 is 3}i in. Square down from U and rule a line from \' to U. Rule a line from 28 to 25. U to 8 is 1/6 breast measure. Shape bottom of lapel as shown in illustration, and Square down from 8. place buttons and l)uttonholes as shown. K to 23 is 1/6 breast measure. Lav up a standing collar in connection with this K to 11 is J/2 in. diagram as per illustration, and be sure it is in length Add }i in. to top of back at point A. the same distance as from A to R and X to P. 138 Frock Uniform for U, S. Jlrmy Officers^ Mounted and Unmounted Skirt 10 to 14 is 1/3 seat measure. 14 to 15 is 1/12 seat measure. 10 to 12 is same distance as 24 to 20, 21 to 35, and 27 to 25. Square down from 12 bv fashionable waist line. From 10 to 17 is same distance as from D to E. 12 to 29 is same distance as from 10 to 17 minus 1 in. Shape top of skirt, front and bottom, as well as back of same, and finish as shown. 139 Military Blouse Measures as Follows: Waist length 17 in. To seat 23)^ in. Full length 29 in. Breast 36 in. Waist 31 in. Seat 2)7 in. To Draft Square out and down from A. A to \' is 1/3 breast measure. V to B is 3 in. A to C is natural waist length. A to D is length to seat. A to E is full length of coat. Square out from B, C, D and E. B to F is 1/3 breast measure, F to H is 1 in. B to S is 3^2 breast measure. S to G is 3 in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. B to N is breast measure. N to I is 2^4 in. Square up from W. Square up and down from G. Square up from H. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is J4 in- Rule a line from W to R. Square back from K, finding point Z. Sweep back from point 1, using point G as a pivot. 1 to X is i^ in. Square out from X by balance line. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to is 54 waist measure. Square down from 0. Shape as shown in illustration from O to I and 0. Rule a line from X to Z. K to 24 is K' i"- Shape as shown in illustration from A to R, R to 24 and out. 24 to 11 is ^ in. X to 20 is same distance as R to 11. 20 to Y is same distance as K to 24. Rule a line from X to Y. K to 23 is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from B to 23. C to 21 is 1 in. Square down from 21. Rule a line from Z to 21. 21 to 4 is 34 waist measure. 14 to 10 is ]/4 seat measure. Shape as shown in illustration from 11 to 23, 23 to 4 and 10 and down to 5. O to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from J to P. Shape as shown in illustration from X to P. Shape shoulder from Y to X. Shape armhole as shown in illustration from Y to 23. L to M is 2 in. S to 19 is % in. M to 7 is yi waist measure. 7 to 21 is waist suppression, which is divided into two equal parts, as Figures 7 and 2 indicate. From 4 to 3 is 3^ waist suppression, or same dis- tance as 2 to 21. From M to 8 is J/j waist suppression, or same dis- tance as from 2 to 7. Apply seat measure on 2/3 of divisions plus IjX in. from 10 to 14 and U to 12. Shape as shown in illustration from 23 to 3 and 12, from 19 to M and 17, and from 19, 8 to 18. Sweep back from point 5, using 23 as a pivot. Sweep forward from 6, using point X as a pivot. Shape as shown in illustration from 6 to 17 and 18 to 16. Lay up standing collar l}^ in. wide, as shown in illustration. Dotted line in front of blouse ndicates button stand. Dot and dash line illustrating peak lapel and cut- away front shows front of mess jacket. Mess Jacket Take out V of Ij/^ in. from P to 15. From 15 to 13 is ZjA in. From to 21 is 3^4 in. Crease line is shown bv dot and dash line. Shape lapel and front from 15 to 13, and 13 to 21. Cut away as shown by dash line, and mess jacket is finished. 140 Military Blouse Mess Jacket Military Overcoat — U. J. Army Measures as Follows : Waist length 18 in. Waist 36 in. To seat 25 in. Seat 41 in. Full length 47 in. Excess of 4 sizes of circumference allowed for Breast 40 in. exaggeration. To DraLft All systematical points are obtained in same man- ner as in double-breasted box overcoat, with the ex- ception of collar and V taken out in front. Square up and down from I. 30 to 20 is same distance as from P to 30. to 15 is 4 in. 16 to 19 is 4 in. Square out from 30. 20 to 21 is 3^ in. Shape front as shown in illustration from 21 to 13, 15 and 19. CoUacr 28 to 27 is 1 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 27 to P. From P to 26 is same distance as A to R and X to P. Width of collar stand from P to 22 and 26 to 25 is 13^ in. Shape as shown in illustration from 27 to 23, and allow J4 in. for seam on upper part of collar so as to have seam come on inside. Make width of collar from 2i to 24 4 in., and same width in back. Shape collar all around as per illustration. Place pockets as shown in this illustration, with flaps and buttons. Place belt on back with two buttons and finish as shown. 142 Military Overcoat — U. J. Army General Officer's Dress Uniform Measures Used as Follows: Waist length 17^ in. Breast 38 in. Waist 33 in. .29 in. Seat 39 in. Length to seat 23^ in Full length To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as for regular military blouse. The difference between this garment and the military blouse is that this is double breasted, and front is obtained in the following manner : O to 25 is 1/6 breast measure. Place corner of square at 25, level same with point and square up. Square across from P by line W-1. 21 to 15 is same distance as P to 21. 15 to 13 is 4 in. 25 to 26 is 3 in. Square down from waist line through 26 and rule a line from 13 to 26. Collar From P to 27 is same distance as A to R and X to P. Shape as shown in illustration from 27 to P. 27 to 28 is 154 in. Shape from 28 to P. 27 to 29 is 3 in. P to 30 is 3 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 28 to 27, 27 to 29, 29 to 30 and 30 to P, and finish as shown. Ui General Officer's Dress Uniform Circular and Military Capes 111 view of the fact that it is often required tiiat the cape fall to a certain position on the hand or arm, it is advisable to take measurements from the neck over the shoulder and down to side, as well as back length from back of neck down, and front length from throat down. The Draft was Produced from the Following Measures i Breast 36 in. Back length 26 in. From neck over shoulder and down at side. . .ZSyi in. Front length 26 in. To Dratft Square out and down from A. Square up from A. A to C is 1/6 breast measure. B to F is y2 breast measure. F to G is 3^ in. G to W is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from H to W and down. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. Square up from T. T to R is ^ in. Square out line H-O by line H-W. H to M is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from E to M. Shape neckhole from A to R. R to M and out. A to H is 1/6 breast measure. C to B is 1/3 breast measure. Square out from C and B. M to N is 1/3 breast measure. N to P is 1^4 in. Rule a line from H to P. Square down from P. Apply back length from A to D. Apply side length from R to J. Apply front length from M to O and shape as shown by solid line from D to J and S. Shape from X to P and S and circular cape is completed. Milita.ry Ca.pe Is produced from same pattern by cutting it open from R to E and plait as shown by illustration from E to J and U, leaving opening as shown by dotted lines from R to K, reducing width at bottom and front. Dot and dash lines illustrate military cape, as shown by points A, R, E, K, L, V, U and D. It will be noticed that cutting a cape is a very simple matter. They must be properly balanced to allow the fulness to fall in graceful folds. All of these garments are to be made before the collar is put on. Neck being on the bias of the cloth necessitates that a tape shall be basted on the neck to remain there until the cape is ready for the collar. Capes lend themselves to various styles and lengths, the accompanying drafts forming the groundwork. These are intended for style of opening through or facing with fly or without but- ton stand. Some are made with lapels and collars to turn down and others in military style as shown in illustration in regular cape. Any style of collar de- sired can be attached to these capes for the reason that the neckhole of the cape is the same shape as regular coat. 146 Circular and Military Capes 147 Capes Regular Cape Cape is cut with seams over the sliuulders and measures used for illustration are as follows : Back length 32 in. Breast measure 36 in. Square out and down from A. A to C is 1/6 breast measure. A to E is full length of cape. A to T is 1/6 breast measiu'e. T to R is }i in. Square out from C. C to F is J<2 breast measure. F to G is 2 in. Square down from F. F to H is % breast measure. Front Part C to Z is % in. C to B is 1/3 breast measure. B to D is 1% in. Rule a line from A to D. Square down from D. E to M is 3 in. Shape as shown in illustration from R to S, S to I) and down to L and from L to K. S to is 1'^ in. L to N is iy2 in. Shape button stand as shown by dash line. To Draft Back Part Square out from H. H to I is ;^ breast measure. Rule a line from R to G. Rule a line from G to I and down. Sweep forward from point E, using point R as a pivot, finding" point J. J to K is 3 in. Shape as shown in illustration from .A. to R and R to G. Shape from G to I and K and shape from E to K. Collar S to 3 is same distance as A to R and R to S. From i to 2 IS \}{[ in. Shape as shown in illustration from S to 3 and S to From 3 to 4 is 4 in. From S to 5 is 4 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 2 to 3, 3 to 4. 5 to 4, and S to 5 and finish. Clerical Chaplain^ and I^night Templar Coat In the production of the Clerical, Chaplain and Knight Templar coats the same diagrams are used, for the reason that in the production of patterns they are exactly the same, while they differ in front as re- Sfards buttons. Measurements as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. ner as for regular frock coat. The only difference is Fashionable waist 18>1 in. that' these garments have straight front and button up Full length 40 m. ^^ ^^^^ throat in military style, and have standing col- lar. There is no other difference in drafting, but for Waist 22 in. T_ . other details see fashion illustrations pertaining to Seat 3/ HI. ^ '^ All systematical points are obtained in same man- same. l.iO Regular Capes Clerical and I^night Templar Coat CLERICAL AND KNIGHT TEMPLAR. Single and Double Breasted Coachman's Coat Natural waist Fashionable waist 19 in. Full length for under coat 7)7 in. Full length of overcoat 44 in. MeaLSuremervts a.s Follows. 17 in. Breast 38 in. Waist Seat . .34 in. .39 in. To Dracft All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as for regular frock coat, subject to height, variations and measurements according to stipulations in diagrams illustrating same. For single-breasted coat note dash lines in front. Extend a button stand from I .out to dash line of 1J4 in-, and same amount from 22 ^to dash line. Shape as shown by dash line This single-breasted coat has a regular coat collar, as will be seen by illustration. For double-breasted coat follow instructions for double-breasted frock. From 26 to 27 is 3 in. 28 to 29 is 4 in. From 9 to 12 is 3 in. Shape lapel and skirt as shown by solid lines. Collar has turn down efifect, produced as follows : P to 2)2) is same distance as A to R and X to P. 33 to 34 is 1'4 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 22 to P and 34 to P. 33 to 22 is 3J/' in. P to 31 is 3>4 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 34 to 33 and 22 and from 32 to 31, and P to 31. In all other details patterns for these garments are produced in the same manner as for regulation frock coats. 152 Single and Double Breasted Coachman' s Coat 153 Footman s Coat I / Mea-surements as Follows; Natural waist 17 in. Fashionable waist 18^ in. Length i7 in- Breast 36 ni. Waist 32 in. Seat 2)7 in. To Dra.ft All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as for regular frock coat, subject to height, variations and measurements as shown ni illustrations regulating same. While the edges meet there is no button stand extended to front, and this garment is closely on the military style. It has a side edge at the back fold, and this side edge should lie -/;; of the leni^th of the skirt. Place broad flaps at side extending down from the front of skirt. These flaps should be shaped as indicated in this diagram, with a button at each corner. There should be six buttons on each side of the front, as shown in diagram. In all other details this coat is produced in the same manner as regular frock coat, subject to sys- tematical reeulations for fit, etc. 154 Footman' s Coat lo5 Automobile Coat Measures as Follows: Waist length 18 in. To seat 243/2 in. Length 49 in. Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Scat 41 in. 4 sizes of excess to breast, waist and seat. To Dra.ft All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in single and double-breasted box overcoat, with the exception of a V taken out at front, and the collar, which is in military effect. Square up from I. 22 to 21 is same distance as P to 22. to 15 is 4 in. 16 to 18 is 4 in. Square out from 21. 21 to 20 is 3^ in. Shape as shown in iUustration fioni 20 to 13, 15 and 18. Cut front part of pattern apart from 27 to 25 and spread same 8 in., as shown, from 27 to F and 25 to 26. Insert in jiattern a piece of paper 8 in. wide from 23 to 24 and 25 to 26 for inverted plait to extend from pocket down. Above pocket add one seam to each side only. Coll&.r 29 to 28 is 1 in. Shape as shown by illustration from 28 to P. From P to 35 is same distance as A to R and X to P. Width of stand of collar is 1>4 in. from P to 30 and 35 to 34. Shape upper part of collar as shown by illustra- tion from 33 to 31 and allow one seam im upper part so as to make seam come on inside. Width of collar from 31 to Zl is 4 in., and same width in back. Place belt straps on back of coat and finish. Jiutomohile Coat Chauffeur's Sack Coat Produced on the style of the Norfolk, but with turn down collar and military closing at throat. In drafting a coat of this kind, always add two sizes to regular measures. For example: If circumference is breast 36, waist 32, seat 2>7. the draft should be 38, 34 and 39, so as to make the garment easier. All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as in regular sack coat. Variations and measurements are to be allowed as shown in directions in Variations and Measurements. The difference, be- sides the excess, is that nothing is taken out at point C. For yoke and straps, as well as belt, follow illus- tration. These straps are sewed on the goods. The pattern is cut regular and these trimmings are laid on over pattern. In producing the collar, the distance from P to 20 is same as from A to R and X to P. 20 to 21 is 114 in. Shape as shown in illustration from 21 to P. Shape from 20 to P. 20 to 19 is 3 in. P to 18 is 3 in. Shape from 21 to 20 and 19. Shape from 19 to 18. Shape from 18 to P. Place at side patch pockets 8 in. in length, with flap and button, as shown in illustration. 158 Policemen's Blouse 16- Mea-surements Used a.re Ols Follows : \\'aist lengtli 17'/ in. It has a straight front and buttons to the throat To seat 23% in. in miHtary style, and has a turn down collar. Length 29 in. This coat should be close fitting, and no excess Breast 36 in. in size is necessary in the production of same. It is Waist 32 in. understood that drafting is subject not only to pro- Seat i7 in. portions, but to height, variations and measurements, All systematical points are obtained in exactly as shown in stipulations in diagram illustrating same, the same manner as for regular sack coat. The small- This diagram is produced merely to show the small waisted effect is incorporated, as will be seen by V changes from regular, taken out in side. 159 Policemen s Coat POLICEMEN'S Measures as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. Fashionable waist 19 in. Fnll length 46 in. Breast 40 in. Waist 38 in. Seat 41 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the same manner as for regnlar frock coat, with the exception of the front, which is produced in military style. L to is Yi waist plus ^ in. 29 to 12 is 3 in. 12 to 9 is VY in. Take out a \' as shown by illustration from 12 to 9. Square out from P. P to 26 is 2>4 in. ' Shape as shown by illustration from P to I and 26 to I. 26 to 25 is iy^ in. 29 to 27 is 314 in. Shape as shown by illustration from 25 to 27. Place side edge of back as shown in illustration. Policemen's coats are usually made with standing collar, as shown in illustration. If turned down collar is desired see illustration of nulitarv overcoat. Policemen's Coat 161 N o r f o I k Mea-sures a.s Follows: Waist length 17^ in. To seat 23% in. Full length. .29 Breast 36 in. Waist .' 32 in. Seat ^7 in. To Dracft All systematical points are obtained in same man- ner as in regular draft for sack coat, with the excep- tion that there is nothing taken out at point C, and the addition to waist is 4 in. Line up as shown in illustration from 4 to 7 and from 9 to 14. Line up from 20 to 25. to 24 is 1/6 breast measure. Line up from 25 to 24. 18 is half way between 4 and 7. 17 is half way between 20 and 25. 21 is half way between 9 and L From 24 to 22 is same distance as from I to 21. Cut patterns apart as follows : From 4 to 7. From 9 to 14. From 20 to 25. From 25 to 24. From 21 to 22. From 18 to 17. Spread pattern 4 in. from 18 to 19 and 17 to 20, being 2 in. for box plait; the other inch on each side is for turn under. The back will then assume position shown by dotted lines. The same thing is done with fore part, spreading the pattern as cut 4 in. from 21 to 23, 22 to 24. The fore part will then assume the position as shown by dotted lines. Point 23 is brought back to 21 and 24 to 22, which creates a box plait of 2 in. Point 19 is brought back to 18 and 20 to 17, which creates a box plait on back from 18 to 17. Seams of %. in. must be added to all parts from 7 to 4, 20 to 25, 25 to 24 and 9 to 14. Place the pockets as shown, and also belt, cover- ing seam below waist, which completes illustration as shown. 162 Norfolk Jacket \ 163 Golf Coat To DraLft Square out and down from A. A to B is % breast measure plus 3 in. A to C is waist length. A to D is seat length. A to E is full length. Square out from B, C, D and E. B to G is 3-2 breast measure plus 3 in. B to I is breast measure plus 2 in. B to H is 1-. breast measure plus lYz in. Square up from H. Square up and down from G. (j to S is 1/6 breast measure. Square up from S. A to T is 1/6 breast measure. T to R is J4 in- Rule a line from R to S. Square back from K finding point Z. Rule a line from Z to X. X to O is 1/6 breast measure. L to O is J/ waist measure. Shape from Q to I, O and down. Q to P is 1/6 breast measure. Rule a line from J through P. Shape from A to R and R to K. X to Y is ^ in. less than from R to K. H to F is 1% in. Rule a line from B to F, as shown by dotted linr. F to 2 is 3^ in. Shape from K to 2 and shape from Y to 2. Shape neckhole from X to P. Square down from H and shape from 2 to 3, M down to 5. C to V is ]/ in. Shape from A to V and square down from V. Ap])ly waist measure plus ilA in. from 3 to \^ and 6 to 4. Apply seat measure plus 2 in. on the % of divis- ions from J\I to D and \V to N. Sweep back from 5, using point 2 as a pivot, find- ing point 6. Sweep forward from 6, using X as a pivot, find- ing point 7. Extend a button stand, 1^4 in- at I, 1 in. at O, and shape front and bottom as shown, lengthening 1 in. at point 7. This finishes the regular draft of sack coat. To produce the golf or stroke coat do as follows : Place the breast pocket and the lower pocket and cut out pattern as shown by heavy lines. Plait a piece of thirteen plaits of 1 in. each and place under pat- tern as shown. Mark around same and this will be the piece to insert for the plaiting. Also place the belt the same width at back as shown. Give a little spring at bottom to correspond with spring lost in forepart. The back is cut without a seam and is shrunk in at center as shown on drawing. There is also a box plait in back below belt the same width as back above belt and is shown by the fine solid and dash line. The breast pocket has a flap to go in and out. The lower pocket is a patch pocket, as shown. In laying the pattern together deduct the two seams running down from point 2 that you would lose on the original pattern and add seams in all places that are lost in putting in these plaits, that you would otherwise not lose in a regular coat. The plaits turn and run each way as shown by the small crosses. They are stitched on the edge close, but not stitched down flat, as they are intended to open out when the stroke is taken. 164 Golf Coat 16.-) llidlng Coat Mea-svirements a.s Follows: Natural waist 17 in. From K to 23 is 1/6 breast measure. Fashionable waist 19 in. In producing skirt the distance from point 14 Full length 33 in. to 15 is 1/12 seat measure plus -^4 in. Breast 36 in. Shape top of skirt as shown in illustration from Waist 32 in. 24 to 12. Seat 37 in. Shape from 12 to 27, 24 to 17 and 17 to 27. All systematical points for shoulders are obtained Flaps may be placed on the sides and patch in regular manner. pockets on the front part, as shown in illustration. Exceptions from regular frock coat to riding coat All other details in the production of this draft areas follows: are identical with regular frock, subject to height. C to 8 is 1/6 breast measure, making back wider. variations and measurements. 169 Hunting Sack Measurements as Follo^vs; Waist length 17j-j in. sufficient space for ammunition and other things to Length to seat 23^4 ™- be carried in the pockets. It is cut on the principles Full length 29 in. of the straight front sack, and has a turn down collar Breast 36 in. and buttons to the throat in military style. Waist 32 in. This coat is cut with a straight back and shaped Seat 37 in. only a little at the sides. As indicated by dotted lines, All systematical points are obtained in the same a protector is put on the shoulder so as to give more manner as for regular sack coat, subject to height, service in wear. The pockets are generally patch, variations and measurements, as shown in directions in and finished with flaps as indicated in draft, and are diagrams illustrating same, but in producing a coat of unusually large. The breast pocket is about 63^ in. this kind it is advisable to cut it 2 or 3 sizes larger wide and about 8 in. deep ; the side pockets are 10 in. than called for by the measurements, so as to allow wide and as deep as the length of the coat will allow. 167 INDIVIDUALITY SECTION Showing Construction of Coats and Vests^ Lapels and Collars different from the ordinary and which give Personality to the Wearer, 160 IndiuLduality Individuality to the tailor means the process of putting into his garments the different touches which emphasize and bring out his customer's personality. No two men are cast in the same mold. Each one has some small distinction which makes him different from his fellow. This is personality. It is personality which makes a man liked or disliked, a success or a failure. A man who has little personality has but little influence for good or otherwise. The tailor who is an artistic tailor makes it his business to emphasize this personality as much as possible. This is the difference between custom-made and ready-made clothing. A garment which is cut and made so as to suit one man as well as another tends to bring a man down to the common level, and takes away that attraction which is the birthright of every man. To increase a man's personality is to make him noticed and increase his chances of success. It is a cutter's duty to study each customer's build, attitude, character, and even his business, to be able to produce clothes which shall harmonize with and express his personality. Progressive cutters should cultivate individuality as well as style in the garments, for, while any average man can learn system without trouble, the true Sartorial Artist is not satisfied with the scientific part alone. He who can, by the use of graceful lines and curves, incorporate individuality with system, and produce garments which heighten the customer's personality and are becoming to the individual, has solved the problem, and is in fact, as well as name, an artistic tailor. Individuality is the strongest point today for the custom tailor. The ready-made manufacturer may obtain the best patterns in the world and work out the most complete system for his workmen, but for him to produce personal clothes for the individual customer is an impossibility. When a model has been graded, hundreds, and perhaps thousands of garments must be made from it, and these clothes must fit hundreds or thousands of men of varying personality, with only the difference in the height and size to distinguish one from another. The result is that the ready-made manufacturers make all men look alike. While I admit that it is possible for them to sometimes produce fitting, and even exaggerated, gar- ments, they can not produce individuality to the extent that their garments will express the person- ality of each and every individual wearer. The more study the cutter gives to the producing of individuality and style, the better will be the result of his work. The merchant tailoring cutter has an opportunity to display his resources because he knows his customer's peculiarities, because he prepares a special pattern for each individual cus- tomer, and because the cloth is cut and made specially from these patterns. For the purpose of illustrating to the student what is meant by INDIVIDUALITY and how to produce it, I have inserted in this section a number of drafts pertaining to individual garments, as stated in the introduction. » INDIVIDUALITY can best be expressed by variations in the style of a garment, as, an individual lapel or a certain shoulder, or a particular shape of collar, or the line or curves or the corners, etc. In the diagrams illustrating INDIVIDUALITY, it will be well to study the various lines and curves, also the different positions of seams, dashes, vents, etc. Exaggeration is a valuable aid to INDIVIDUALITY, as is the manipulations of patterns. The different lengths of coats, placing of pockets, etc., all c6me within the scope of INDIVIDUALITY. In connection with the problem of the making of individual garments, it is very essential that special study should be given the different patterns of woolens which suit each type of man, so that each customer will receive such cloth as suits his own personality. It should be becoming to his complexion, and the style and weave should be appropriate to his build, height, weight, age and occu- pation, so as to prevent, for instance, the possibility of making a suit of Scotch plaid for a man who is only 5 feet 4 inches in height and weighs 225 pounds, or of making a small stripe or a fine silky mix- ture for a six-footer weigliing 125 pounds. While it is true that the customer usually selects his own cloth, it is the duty of the merchant tailor and cutter to advise him whether his selection is right or wrong, and whether it is becoming to him. Personal experience has demonstrated that a customer will often fancy a piece of cloth which would be utterly unsuitable for him. Unless he is advised differently, he will, after the garment is finished, see his mistake, and blame the tailor for an unbecoming garment. Therefore, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with what is appropriate and becoming to various types of men in materials, as well as in shapes and styles of garments. In connection with the diagrams illustrating INDIVIDUALITY, study also the making of can- vases, how to make a try-on, how to try on, and the tailoring part thoroughly, as it matters not how good a pattern you produce nor how much style and individuality you incorporate in your patterns, unless in addition to the fundamentals, proportions, variations, height, circumference, exaggerations, manipulations of patterns, and lines and curves for individuality, you have enough knowledge of prac- tical tailoring to direct your workmen so that you can obtain what you desire. If not, the result will be unsatisfactory. See the article on "How to Instruct the Maker," and study to understand the reasons why it is essential to make such clothes as not only please the customer, but are also a credit to yourself. 171 Double Breasted Outing Sack Coat Measures as Follows : Waist length l/VS in. Length to seat 23;J4 in. Full length 30 in. Breast 38 in. Waist 34 in Seat 39 in. To Dracft All systematical points obtained in regular man- ner, subject to height, circumference, variations, measurements and exaggeration. The special feature jf this garment is the V taken out in the crease line of 1J4 'n. from point 1 to point 9, giving an oval shape to the crease of apel. Also attention is called to the shape of the patch pockets, position of same and shape of lapel. Extension of button stand from front line is 4 in. all the way down. This diagram was produced from a pattern drawn for an actual garment, material of which was white flannel. It was exhibited at various conventions and pronounced a most beautiful garment. Special study should be given to the lines and curves and all details of this garment. Double Breasted Outing Sack Coat 173 One Button Novelty Sack Coat ^5 Measures Waist length 17>^ in. Length to seat 23>^ in. Full length 29>4 in. To All systematical points are obtained in the regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations, measurements and exaggerations. The difference from the regulation in this gar- ment is as follows : From H to S is Y^ in. From 4 to Y is % in. Shape as shown in illustration from R to S and S to 2. Shape as shown in illustration from Y to X. The lapels are long and have the oval effect on as Follows. Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Seat 37 in. Draft crease line and are scooped out on the outside edge. Take out a V of 1^4 in. at point P. Shape lapel and front as shown in illustration. The pockets shown in this diagram are welt. Take out a V in side of front part, as shown in illustration and stretch lower part of same and hold in the goods at upper part of V, thereby forcing a chesty effect into front. In all other details the garment is exactly the same as regulation. 174 One Button J^ovelty Sack Coat 175 Three Button Novelty Sack Coat Mea.s\ires a-s Follows: Waist length l/j^ in. Length to seat 2^y4 in. Full length 29 in. Breast 36 in. Waist a in. Seat i7 ill. E.xcess over breast 2 sizes To DraLft All systematical points are obtained in regular manner, including exaggeration, and subject to height, circumference, variation and measurcnT°nts. The special feature of this garment is that shoul- der seams are raised ;)4 in. from H to S. From 4 to Y is Yx in. Shape shoulder of back part as shown in illustra- tion from R to S. Shape shoulder of front part as shown in illus- tration from Y to X. From L to is J/2 waist measure. Apply regular waist measure plus 3j^ in. from 3 to V and to 9. Take out a \^ in gorge of Ij^ in., thereby obtani- ing oval effect of lapel. Outside edge of lapel is 12 in. long. Notch of lapel is 2 in. and notch of collar is 1>4 in. Take out a V in side and stretch lower part of V as shown by dashes in illustration, and shrink in upper part of V, thereby producing chest in the coat. Shape lapel, front and bottom, as shown in illus- tration. Re sure to study lines and curves of this garment. 176 Three Button Movelty Sack Coat 177 Three Button Hovelty Sack Coat Measures as Follows: Waist length 17>2 in. Breast 38 in. To seat 23^ in. Waist 34 {„' Full length 29>^ in. Seat ...2,9 m. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the regu- V is stretched and upper part is held in so as to pro- lar manner, subject to height, circumference, varia- (]^,(-e ^^e chesty effect. tions, measurements and exaggeration. The special features of this garment are the shape of the lapel, and welt pockets (which are made to har- monize with the hollowed out lapel) ; front and bottom. A V is taken out in the side, and lower part of Special attention should be given to the shapes and curves of lapels, front and bottom. Also note that a V is taken out in gorge, which produces the oval effect to the crease line of lapel. 178 Manipulation of Front for Corpulent or Stout Figure In sack or overcoat for corpulent or stout figures there is always a surplus length of edge below the abdomen. This can be remedied as shown in illustra- tion by making a cut from center of armhole down to pocket from 1 to 2, and another cut in pocket from 3 to A. Fold surplus over according to illustration at 4, making the opening between 2 and 3 ]4, in. for every inch subject measures more than normal at waist. The dotted lines at side and bottom illustrate the shape of side and bottom after this operation is performed. In cutting cloth cut as per dotted lines at side and bottom and take out goods in V from 1 to 2 and 3 to 2. Manipulation of Sack Coat Pattern This illustration shows how to obtain a square effect in shoulders ; also how to obtain a chesty effect from a regular pattern. Besides these it also shows how to obtain a double breasted front. After having drafted pattern according to pro- portions, height, circumference, variations and meas- urements, proceed as follows for square shoulders : Raise shoulder seam of back 34 i"- Forward front shoulder ]/?, in. and shape as per solid line, as (lotted lines indicate the regularly drafted pattern. In making, stretch the shoulder a trifle where shaded. This will produce the square effect of shoulders. For chesty effect take out a V in side for closer fit, and one at the back end of pocket and another at front end of pocket, as shown in illustration. Add to spring of front part as much as is taken out in V at back end of pocket. In making, hold the back a trifle full to the front part at side. Draw in the back a little before you sew in the sleeve and hold the back full to shoulder. Also, hold in the front of armhole slightly. This will give a smooth fitting back and chesty effect. For double breasted note dash lines and have buttons lj4 in. farther apart at chest than at waist. This will further increase the chesty appearance of the garment. ISO Flaring of Overcoat This diagram explains itself, therefore an ex- planation would hardly be necessary. Make a slash from the bottom 'of the back up to about V/> inches above the breast line and to arm- hole. Make a slash in the front part, extending about 1 Vz mches above the breast line and to the armhole. Spread the back at bottom about V/, inches and the front about 2 inches. Place this pattern upon another paper and mark off. and you will have an overcoat that spreads well at the bottom without changing the balance of the coat. 181 Novelty Top Coat Mea.sures as Follows: Waist length 18 in. Full length 34 in. Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Seat 41 in. Excess circumference 4 sizes To Dra^ft All systematical points are obtained in regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations, measurements and eyaggeration. The special feature of this garment is that it is produced without side seams. After having drafted pattern in regular vv^ay and having cut it out, paste the side seam of the front part and the side seam of the back part together and reduce same two seams. The armhole, shoulder, neckhole, front and bot- tom will present the appearance of the dotted lines. Cut the front and back part in one piece and the result will be a top coat without side seams. 182 J\louelty Top Coat 183 Single Breasted Box Overcoat Measures as Follows: Waist length 18 in. Length to seat 24 in. Full length 45 in. Breast 40 in. Waist 36 in. Seat 41 in. Excess in circumference 4 sizes To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the regu- sleeve is attached to armhole, and its relation to the lar manner, subject to height, circumference, varia- armhole. tions, measurements and exaggeration. The pockets are vertical. The special feature of this garment is the oval The sides are slightly shaped. This diagram is efTect of lapel and hollowed out outside edge of same. placed in this volume especially for its outlines. The dotted lines illustrate the manner in which Therefore, study the lines and shape of same. Single Breasted Box Qvercoat 185 Shell for Fur Coat Measures as Follows: Waist length 18 in. Waist 38 in. Seat length 24 in. Seat 43 in. Full length 48 in. Six sizes of exaggeration for circumference. Breast 42 in. To IDroLft AH systematical points are obtained in the regular Add a button stand of 5 in. all the way down the manner for exaggerated box overcoat, subject to front. height, circumference and measurements. Shape collar and lapel as shown in illustration, The difference is as follows: and with these few changes, including depth of scye Make depth of scye J4 in. lower than proportions and exaggerations, you will have a good shell for a or measures call for. fur coat. 186 Shell for Fur Coat Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern This illustration shows manner of obtaining a flar- ing effect at the bottom of overcoat as well as a chesty effect of same. Having produced a pattern from reg- ular proportions, height, circumference, variations, measurements and exaggerations, lay patterns on the cloth in regular manner, as the square in which the il- lustration is placed represents the cloth. Shape around pattern, then make a cut in the cloth from armhole down to the pocket. Plait goods from the pocket down to the bottom to the extent you wish the coat to flare. This will leave an opening from armhole down to the pocket. Lay the regular pattern on again and reshape side as shown by solid line. Insert a wedge in opening from armhole down to the pocket. This will give the flare at the bottom. For chesty effect to the garment, take out a \' at the front end of pocket as shown in illustration and make a wedge at side wide enough to make up for the V taken out in front end of pattern. For double breasted space buttons IjX in. wider over chest than at waist. Remember, )'0u use an ordi- nary pattern and these manipulations are made on the cloth. Manipulation of Overcoat Pattern Two Button Novelty Frock Coat r ^ Measures as Follou's: Natural waist 17 in. Breast 38 in. Fashionable waist 18J^ in. Waist 34 in. Length 37>4 in. Seat 39 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this garment is the flar- ing skirt, length of lapel and narrow side body at the waist. The front closes with 2 buttons and button holes. one being in the waist seam and the other 5 in. above. By making two slashes in the skirt and spreading same 2 in. each slash, a flaring effect will be given. Width of side body at waist is J4 waist measure minus i/i in. Note lines and curves of the different parts of diagram. 190 Two Button Novelty Frock Coat 191 Novelty One Button Frock Coat Measures as Follows: Natural waist 1 7 in. Breast 36 in. Fashionable waist 183^ in. Waist 32 in. Full length 38 in. Seat 37 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special features of this garment are the low opening and long oval lapel with scooped out effect on outside edge of same and pockets at side which are finished with a welt. Width of side body at waist is 34 waist measure minus ^ in. A V is taken out in front part to produce a chesty effect. The run of the front will allow vest to be shown when finished. In other details the diagram explains itself. X92 Novelty One Button Frock Coat 193 Three Button Alooelty Frock Coat Measures as Follows: Natural waist ■. 1/ in. Breast 38 in. Fashionable waist 18>4 in. Waist 34 in Full length 39 in. Seat 40 in To Draft All systematical points are obtained in regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations, measurements and exaggeration. The special feature of this garment is the chesty effect produced from two Vs being taken out the front part from waist seam up, as shown in illustration. The long oval lapel is obtained by taking out a V of 1J4 in. in gorge. Take out a V at front end of flaj) of ^j, in. and take out Yz in. V on side of front part running up from waist seam. The side body is narrow, obtained by % waist !>ieasure minus y^ in. Special attention should be given to the run of the front, as well as that of the bottom, also shape of flaps. See they are hollowed out as shown in illustration so as to conform with the hollowed out lapel. The breast pocket, vi'hile placed on slant, also has the same oval shape so as to con- form with lapel. Too much study cannot be given to the lines, shapes and curves of the various parts of a garment of this kind. 191 Three Button Movelty Frock Coat 195 Double Breasted Novelty Frock Coat Measures as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. Breast 38 in. Fashionable waist 18>^ in. Waist 34 in. Full length 43 in. Seat 39 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations, and measurements, as shown in system. The special feature of this garment is the narrow side body, the width of which is ^ of waist measure minus ^ in. The special width of skirt is obtained by using 14, seat measure from U to 17 and hollowing top of skirt seam. The illustration shows flat braided edges and lap- els are silk faced to notch. The front closes with 2 buttons and there are two button holes on lapel. Width of lapel at bottom is 2j/2 in. and where the top button hole is placed it is 3^-2 in. wide. Special attention should be paid to the lines and curves of this draft. Double Breasted Novelty Frock Coat 197 Novelty Full Dress Coat Measures as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. Breast 36 in. Fashionable waist 18 1^ in. Waist 32 in. Full length 41 in. Seat 37 in. To Draft All systematical ])oints are obtained in the same manner as for regular full dress coat, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this garment is that front and skirt are cut in one piece, consequently there is no strap or lapel seam. A V of 3 in. is taken out in crease line of lapel and another V is taken out in front part at point 10 ; also one in skirt. ( See point 10). Stretch V in front part where shaded at point 10 so as to obtain slickness in side and length in front part, for seam necessary to join front part and skirt. Side body is narrow, and obtained by 34 waist measure minus -y^ in. Shape lapel, front and front of skirt as shown in illustration. In the reproduction of this kind of coat it would be well to have the collar and lapels faced to the edge with silk. Special study should be given to the lines and curves of this diagram. 198 J\lovelty Full Dress Coat 199 Novelty Double Breasted }iewmarket Coat Measures as Follows: Natural waist 17 in. Breast 40 in. Fashionable waist 19 in. Waist 36 in. Full length 49 in. Seat 41 in. Excess 3 sizes over chest. To Draft AH systematical points are obtained in the usual manner. This draft may be subjected to height and meas- urements according to system. The difference between this coat and regfular New- market is as follows : No seam in middle of back. Width of back from V to 8 is j5/^ breast measure. Width of side body is Y\ waist measure minus % inch. N to W is 1/6 breast measure plus li/. in. The V taken out at button stand is the same amount as the difference between the squared down line and the line obtained by applying waist measure from L to O. ( See distance between squared down line and front line at W.j Also, take out another V in side of front part, as shown by illustration. The lapel is M/i in. wide at chest and 2j/2 in. at waist. From P to 26 is 2^ in. Shape lapel and front as shown by illustration. The front part and skirt are cut in one piece at front. After laying up regular skirt make four slashes in same as per dotted lines and spread each slash 2 in. In all other details the diagram explains itself. 200 Movelty Double Breasted Newmarket Coat J -L. s_ 201 Collars and Lapels Different Styles of Makeup of Sleeves Collars and Lapels Different Styles of Makeup of Sleeves K 203 Flaring of Skirt The dotted line indicates a normal skirt front. To obtain a full flare at the bottom without changing the balance of the skirt, make four slashes in a proportion- ate skirt and spread the same as much as you wish at the bottom. (Two inches in each slash will give a good full skirt.) Place this upon another paper and mark oflf and you will obtain the desired result. Skirts to all frock coats should be treated in this manner when a proportionate skirt is not desired. 204 Vests SHOWING NOVEL DESIGNS IN REGULAR AND FANCY VESTS 205 Novelty Vest The above draft illustrates a single breasted three-button novelty vest. Measures as Follows: Waist length 17 Breast 36 Waist i2 in. in. in. Opening 16 in. Full length 26>4 in. Length to side 22 in. To Draft AH systematical points are obtained in regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this vest is the shaping of the opening, front and bottom. There is only one pocket at each side and these pockets have flaps. Special attention should be given to placing the pockets as shown in illustration. This diagram has been specially inserted with the view of showing a pattern of vest front suitable for fancy material, such as brocaded velvet or novelties, and while the edges in this instance are braided, it is not necessary to have them so, provided the ma- terial would make up a good edge without braiding. 206 Double Breasted Vest Measures as Follows: Waist length 17 in. Opening 15 in. Breast 36 in. Waist 32 in. Full length 26 in. Length to side 22 in. To Dra.ft All systematical points are obtained in the regu- lar manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this vest is the shaping of the lapels and width of button stand. It will be noted that the crease line of opening is produced with oval effect and the outside edge ot lapel is absolutely straight. The buttons are 7 in. apart at top and i]^ in. apart at bottom. In connection with this diagram it is well to note illustration of manipulation of front part of double breasted vest, as by cutting a V close to button stand and reducing length at opening, as shown in illustra- tion, it is possible to obtain not only a chestv efifect, but also a closer opening without the aid of too much hold- ing in with the stay tape. . • 207 Single Breasted Novelty Vest Measures as Follo\vs: Waist length 17 in. Opening ". 14 in. g j.g^g^ 36 in. Full length 26 in. ■yy^jjgj. 32 in. Length to side 22 in. To DraLft All systematical points are obtained in the regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this vest is that the opening is produced with a turn down lapel and standing col- lar. The front has one pocket on each side with flaps. A V is taken out in the front part from the bot- tom up so as to produce a chesty effect. By careful study of this diagram and noting the way the opening is made the student will be able to produce this novelty vest. Motch Collar Novelty Vest I t Measures as Follows: Waist length 17 in. Opening 16 in. Breast 36 in. Full length 26>4 in. Waist 32 in. Length to side 22 in. To Draft All systematical points are obtained in the regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variation and measurement. The special feature of this vest is the artistic shape of collar, front and bottom of front part. This vest front closes with four buttons and but- ton holes, and has one pocket on each side of front part. Flaps shaped as shown in illustration. A V is taken out in front part so as to give smoothness to the waist and a chesty effect. Special attention should be given to the oval ef- fect of opening, shape of collar, front and bottom, as effects and lines of this character should be used by all good and artistic tailors. 2oy Full Dress Vest Measures as Follows: Waist length 17 in. Opening 21 in. Breast 36 in. I'\ill length 26y2 in. Waist 32 in. Length to side 22 in. To Dra^ft All systematical points are obtained in regular manner, subject to height, circumference, variations and measurements. The special feature of this vest is that it illus- trates a V-shaped opening, the long points at front of vest, and the V in front part taken out which gives smoothness to the waist and the chesty effect. Particularly note shape of opening, collar, cor- ners and bottom of front part, as graceful lines of this kind may be incorporated in the production of noveltv vests. 210 CO CO Q O z M & O '.Q O 3 < B o o , B Q H c < re ij— U H c/} *J" 3 "3 O <: Ox n u ho I re c/l c W u en 3 O u. ei - H 3 O Q re O < H ii - "^ ijo.2 c/2 se fc t/l :d -d U >. C a; (J r3 Q rt Z rt < u t/: '' tt tj H % w •a „ < U a j: Q. 5 tu t. c 2 "o 1 •T3 3 CO Q -n j >^ •0 ^ - m C£i C 72 >. W J re -Td w 3 Vh 1 rt q 1 — . re 5(1 ^3 ^^ 3 a re t- tn '-J D -o J U a> ^ u [/] Q"^ Oh < 2; c 1 1 < re CtJ bb H < 3 < J '? > J 1- < s ^ Qd, LO u U ■5 I > m i-' > s; o o u I en O O PQ T3 ^3 3 -a re ^ 1 OJ 'S ^ .- 't7i en re w ^ 1 H a, ui" ui ^2 1 — . < u a t/5 K pa o 2 2 > . [d CO *^ CO o ra W ^ to ^ 1- <^ .s C B E c he 3 s o tlj ■- I ° <' re d 3 I i O -. u H . t/2 ^ KH re < be . £ re en I en Pi en ID O Pi H c/i S fe - fc " S? u £ a. Q cie J' •- 3 5 re o - c» Pi j: n S > S K > re en 2 o ho Pi < J O u •^ i -;5 re -a 3 I - < g > ho ^ < Pi L) o 5 o I en > O J o I _, re > 3 " Pi ■■ J w 3 re ■ ■ = _ > *-■ o J3 3 I < '2 ° > 3 I ^ ^ S- o .. o ° m o 2 t-H 2 > < « o .2 -3 n O ^ o o dH o b I. V "> 7! c " O -C to a g S to « « fe Q S,Q ™ c „ ■•3 g c U bo 3 I < O u ^ o > I "ho H.5 8 =■■ H .E w — en o -o a ^ ~ en ■" •" ^ o ■> p " z •= 3 P^ < -x 1 0. ■z) 1 Pi Pi s: re < 5^ ^ kJ re en u H en ra < U "bo > > >> <^ ij Pi " J bo u 3 i 3 T3 3 > 3 Oi tJ W 3 ^ s O. o I re H OJ s ^ ^ (« J2 a r3 QJ w "S t; > 1 3 0. £ en H re •a 0, V E 3 u c a P3 211 Cloth Cutting While the systems published are numerous, the authors seem to forget that besides the production of patterns there is another important part of tailoring, viz. : Lay-outs and cloth cutting. Much time and material has been wasted in gaining this knowledge, and realizing this fact, the author of this volume therefore places before the student a few layouts so as to give him a good start in cloth cut- ting, as well as in the placing of outlets, pockets, buttons, etc., as shown in illustrations of layouts. In this connection we have also illustrated the necessary fittings, such as facings, flaps, facings for pockets, collars, etc. Careful study of the illustrations and trials from regular patterns on cloth will be found not only a great saving of labor, but of great practical value to the student. 213 215 Lays for Trousers l.PiY FOR TROUSERS Seat, 40 in.; 32 in. inseam. Amount of material required, 114 yards, 55 in. wide. Fold, out. LAY FOR STOUT MEN'S TROUSERS (Back Part Reversed.) Seat, 45 in; 32 in. inseam. Amount of material required, Xy^ yards, 55 in. wide. Fold, out. Lays for Vests o LAY FOR DOUBLE BREASTED VEST Breast, 38 in. Amount of material required, Vi yard, single width, doubled over. Fold, in. LAY FOR NOTCH COLLAR VEST Breast, 38 in. Amount of material required, % yard, single width, doubled over. Fold, in. Fittings For Coats, Vests, Trousers and Overcoats The diagrams in this section illustrate the fittings necessary for Coats, Vests and Trousers, such as front facing, pocket facing, welts, flaps, and necessary outlets. FITTINGS FOR SACK COAT. FITTINGS FOR OVERCOAT While the undercollar is illustrated, it is customary to cut it from special undercollar cloth. In all other details the diagrams explain themselves. 218 Fittings for Frock Coat, Vests and Trousers BACK PART OF VEST FRONT PART OF VEST FRONT PART OF FROCK COAT TROUSERS 219 PRACTICAL TAILORING SECTION INCLUDING How to Make a Try-on How to Try-on How to Instruct the Maker How to Make Coats^ Vests and Trousers 221 Practical Tailoring There is only one kind of tailoring which can be recognized, and that is the kind which makes it pleasant in an establishment ; the kind that is appreciated by persons of good taste and wearers of good clothes ; the kind that causes a new customer when he puts on his suit to make up his mind not to go elsewhere in the future for his clothes, and to willingly pay the price asked, because he is satisfied that he has received full value for his money and the best of everything that makes up an ideal garment, material, style, symmetry, fit and the best possible make. To my idea a good tailor is as much an artist as the cutter. It is not his sewing alone that pro- duces the smoothness, beauty and effect so much desired ; it is his artistic skill. I am aware of the fact that there is another kind of tailoring, but that I could not possibly rec- ommend. Undoubtedly you have heard of it. It is the kind that makes the cutter feel the chills creep down his back when the garment is brought to him ; it is the kind that creates argument between the customer and the producer. In establishments that handle this grade of work there are always misfits for sale. This class of tailoring is detrimental to the trade and the merchant who deals in it may be ranked among the money sharks. The bargain-hunting customer will soon find that he has paid from seventy- five to one hundred per cent profit to a man who does transient tailoring business, while the high-priced dealer charges only from thirty-three and one-third to forty per cent profit. By showing your customer these comparisons he will clearly see that by paying more for a suit, he is a gainer both in a financial and practical way. These e.xplanations I find necessary in order that I may be clearly understood in my attempt to illustrate and explain the manner in which I used to make coats, vests and trousers, and at the same time how I am having them made now. First, in cutting the patterns they should be carefull}' prepared. The principles applied should be those of proportions, variations and direct measures, and exaggerations and manipulations of pat- tern should be incorporated when necessary. The height of the subject should be given consideration so as to stipulate the exaggeration and to obtain the proper depth and proportionate length, etc. In other words, the cutter should not only apply his technical knowledge and ability, but also analyze his measures, inasmuch as some of them are useless and others may have been taken incorrectly or carelessly ; in fact, patterns must be carefully prepared under all circumstances. Before laying the pattern on the cloth, be sure that the cloth has been properly shrunk. Notice that the lay of the pattern conforms with the run of the grain of the cloth. Be sure that the lay is sat- isfactory from an economical as well as practical point of view. Allow the regulation outlets. See that the chalk is well sharpened, so that in chalking around the pattern you obtain good and clean lines. Carefully mark your pockets, placing of buttons, etc. Then chop out. After having trimmed the suit in the proper manner and wrapped it up in the canvas, tie it up with a stay tape and attach the maker's ticket and the cutter is then ready for the next. 223 Hotv to Make a Try On Having finished putting in the thread marks in the different ])arts of the coat, such as outlets, pockets, button stands, etc., proceed to cut the canvas. It is understood that the canvas should be thoroughly shrunk before cutting and it should be cut so that the threads will run straight with the front, to give steadiness to the front of the coat. It is well to bear in mind that the canvas is the foundation of the garment and the tailor cannot be too careful in preparing it. Having cut the canvas according to regulation, make a cut in shoulder as illustrated by point D, diagram 1. Take out the V as in same illustration at point B. Place the straight edge from the shoul- der point down to center of chest. Place point C one inch below the scye depth. Measure down seven inches for the average size and take out % of an inch opening at angle and the same amount at point A, bear- ing in niiiiil that the straight line should always run with the front. Now you are readv to join the opening by placing a strip of stay linen on under side and cross stitch over edge to edge. Insert a V of 3-4 in. at point D and sew up same as shown in illustration. Sew up the V taken out at point B by placing a piece of linen on the under side and cross stitch from edge to edge, as shown in illustration on diagram 2. Next prepare the hair cloth as indicated in diagram 2. Have the horsehair run straight across the shoulder: make slashes in the haircloth where indicated in the illustration, and fit it on the canvas in the shoulder, by making a cut at point E, and placing another piece of haircloth, with the horsehair running up and down, at same point, thereby making a spring to the shoulder, as shown in illustra- tion. Cover the edges of the haircloth with silesia, or some thin material, and be sure that the hair- cloth and canvas harmonize in the shoulders. Ne.xt in order examine diagram 3, which shows the canvas com]:)leted, the haircloth having been covered with one sheet of wadding in the shoulder and over the chest, and this then covered with flannel. Padding is too thick and does not work so well. Then pad the canvas as indicated in diagram .3. Do not pad too close, nor take too long stitches, as one way would be as bad as the other. If i>adde