K" v ^?» .^' A .^^ ^ -.^ o > .4v^ A <^. .<^ ^ * O N O - 0,> '^_ ^ .^^ ^^.c.'^ vP b > ,^ o N e ^^ ^^ v"J> •'^(Sm^^^J' -^.ur^ ^,^'^^M?^'^ ^ <"^' 4 o .r^' V* .> n r* o ♦^ . />V n w o *^- L^v .^". <^^ 4 o <" ^<^^ ^ INCIDENTS OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL l^1*v Souvenir Edition INCIDENTS OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL Quorum Pars Magna Fui. By GREGORY DOYLE, M. D., LL. D. Syracuse, N. Y. 1910 1- \ Copyright, 1910 By Gregory Doyle All Rights Reserved Printers The Du Bois Press, Newark, New York ©CU265287 MRS. GREGORY DOYLE (nee URANIA C. MOREL) Who made an extensive tour of Europe with the Author DEDICATION TO MY LOVING AND LOYAL WIFE WHO HAS BEEN MY FAITHFUL COMPANION ON THE JOURNEY OF LIFE FOR MORE THAN FORTY YEARS THIS BOOK IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED GREGORY JAMES DOYLE Only son of Gregory and Urania C. Doyle, whose early death left a lasting gloom in the home of his disconsolate parents PREFACE THE first of my five trips to Europe was made in 1882. Mr. S. Gurney Lapham, Dean of the Edi- torial Fraternity of Syracuse, who was at that time editor of the Courier, asked me to contribute to his paper during my travels, and at the same time suggested that I give only my personal impressions of places seen and persons met. I did so and, on my return home, found my letters had given so much satisfaction that I fully appreciated the practical foresight of n^y dis- tinguished friend. Sherlock Holmes said: "People do not always notice what they see." Reflecting on that statement I have since tried, when writing for entertainment, to make note of everything worth seeing and to describe every incident worth hearing about. Many books of travel are so highly flavored with the tincture of well worn guide books that they are seldom accused of much originality. I have followed no set itinerary or chronological order in my account of travels but have given my experiences as they came to mind. Many thousands of people have already gone to Europe and many are yet to go. For the former this book may revive pleasant recollections of places visited; the latter may possibly profit from experiences herein related. While traveling I secured several hundred photo- graphic views with my trusty camera and have used some vii of them to illustrate this work. Addresses, essays, etc., heretofore published in the press, are reproduced at the request of friends who wish to preserve them in more permanent form. Syracuse, N. Y., March 28, 1910. 307 West Genesee street. vin CONTENTS CHAPTER I Outward Bound 1-3 CHAPTER II Italy 4-68 Naples 4 A Collection of Antiques 7 A Visit to Capri 8 The Blue Grotto 10 The Ruins of Pompeii 12 Tivoli 13 In the Gorge of the Anio 14 Vincenza 18 A Landslide 19 A Midnight Peril 20 Verona 22 St. Mark's, Gem of the Adriatic ... 24 St. Mark's, Venice 26 Fratres Misericordiae 28 Rome 29 The Great Basilica 30 Christ in the Temple 30 A Sojourn on the Roof of St. Peter's . 31 The Vatican 32 The Ancient Forum 33 The Mamertine 34 Santa Scala 35 ix The Catacombs of St. Calista .... 36 The Capuchin Catacombs 37 The Church of St. Paul 38 The Treasury of St. Paul's ..... 40 The Chapel of the Three Fountains . , 41 The Church of the Twelve Apostles . 41 From St. Peter's Dome 42 A Modern Plebeian 44 The Mystic City 45 The Carnival of Venice 48 The First Pawn Shop 50 Genoa 51 Pisa 54 The Inferno 54 Coronation of Pius X 56 The Campo Santo of Genoa 61 Masterpiece of Art 62 Sneering Jays 65 Head of John the Baptist 65 A Sudden Transformation .... 67 CHAPTER HI Paris 69-90 Up in a Balloon 72 Tomb of Napoleon 73 The Pantheon . 73 A Wonderful Yankee 74 Notre Dame • . 76 The Madelein \ 76 From a Drop of Oil to a Tragedy . . 78 Tipped the Wrong Man 82 The Fall of the Bastile 83 On the Eiffel Tower 84 In the Bois de Bolougne 86 A Bull Fight in Paris 88 X CHAPTER IV Story Telling on Board Ship 91-147 The Story of the Stranger 93 A Severe Initiation 96 Adjourned for Dinner 99 A Lively Dining Room 100 A Howling Swell 100 An Iceberg 101 A Theological Surprise 103 A Rough Reception 105 A Disastrous Tumble 106 A Cruel Exhibition 107 "One of the Finest" 108 In the Role of an Artist 109 The Draft Riots HI An Auspicious Beginning 115 An Unexpected Rebuff 116 A Man from Jayville 119 A Midnight Stroll on Deck 122 The Rising Moon 123 A Plagiarizing Ingrate 124 A Base Ball Challenge 131 A Time Serving Hypocrite .... 132 Hideous Ingratitude 134 A Trio of Apt Aphorisms 136 An Unwlecome "Compagnon de Voyage" 136 Old Flan, The Handy Man .... 143 A Penalty of Patriotism 146 CHAPTER V Mutual Appreciation 148-152 CHAPTER VI Germany 153-169 A Serio-Comic Incident 153 xi Mayence 155 Down the Rhine 157 The Lorelei 159 Cologne 161 Nuremberg 165 Chamber of Torture 166 An Antique Fire Company 168 CHAPTER VII Switzerland 170-183 Riding 'Through the Alps 172 Tomb of St. Charles Borromeo . . . 173 The Last Supper 176 Beautiful Lucerne 177 Fin and Feather Battle 180 An Incident at the Waage 181 CHAPTER VIII Ireland 184-243 The Tipping Nuisance 186 Love of Country 188 "Irish Philosophers" 190 "Artistic Culture" 191 Irishmen in History ....... 192 Irishmen Rule ......... 201 A Thrilling Ride 204 Mistaken for Orangemen 205 Belfast 208 The Blarney Stone 211 Their "Lordships" 212 A Dublin Cabby 213 Valley of the Seven Churches ... 213 The Meeting of the Waters .... 217 zii Blarney Castle 218 Waterford 222 Shandon 224 The Lakes of Killarney 226 A Tumble Down the Mountain Side . 229 Innisfallen 230 Gougane Barra 232 Trials of a Tourist 234 Vexation on Land, Storm at Sea . . . 234 A Rambling Reviler 241 CHAPTER IX Scotland 244-248 CHAPTER X London . 249-254 Tower of London 249 The British Museum 252 CHAPTER XI Addenda 255 Address at Niagara, Past, Present, Future 255 Reminders of Niagara 267 A Thrilling Reminiscence 267 Falling Rocks of Niagara 269 Sons of Old Niagara 270 Address at Golden Jubilee of "Old Niagara" 271 "The Mistake of the Catholics" ... 276 Some Popular Errors Regarding Injuries 280 Too Much Cutting and Slashing . . . 284 A Whistling Corpse 286 Dr. James J. Moriarty 290 xiii ILLUSTRATIONS THE AUTHOR Frontispiece MRS. GREGORY DOYLE v GREGORY JAMES DOYLE tH THE ISLAND OF CAPRI Facing p. 8 RUINS OF POMPEII WITH MOUNT VESUVIUS IN THE DISTANCE " 12 RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF ISIS " 16' THE BRIDGE OF CASTEL VECCHIO ON THE ADIGE, VERONA " 20 ST. MARK'S CHURCH IN VENICE ..... " 24 ST. PETER'S AND THE VATICAN ..... " 32 TOWER AND BRIDGE OF ST. ANGELO ... " 40 ARCH OP CONSTANTINE NEAR THE COLOS- SEUM IN ROME " 48 THE REMAINS OF THE COLOSSEUM AT ROME " 56 RUINS OF THE ROMAN FORUM " 64 MICHAEL ANGELO'S FAMOUS STATUE OF MOSES " 72 THE CITY OF ROME " 80 A VIEW IN VENICE " 88 BRIDGE OF SIGHS IN VENICE " 96 FEEDING THE DOVES IN ST. MARK'S SQUARE, VENICE " 100 ANCIENT CHANDELIER IN THE CATHEDRAL AT PISA " 104 HOME OF CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS .... " 108 CATHEDRAL AT PISA AND THE LEANING TOWER " 112 THE BAPTISTRY AT PISA " 116 XV v^ ^ THE CAPUCHIN CATACOMBS IN ROME . . . THE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA BELLA SALUTE TOMBS UNDER THE COLLONADE IN THE CAMPO SANTO A MARBLE TOMB IN CAMPO SANTO .... THE OLDEST CHURCH EDIFICE IN ROME . . BRIDGE AND TOWER OF ST. ANGELO WITH ST. PETER'S AND THE TIBER PARIS AS PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A BALLOON BY THE AUTHOR PANTHEON AT PARIS AND SHRINE OF ST. GEN- EVIEVE A FAMILY TOMB IN CAMPO SANTO. GENOA NOTRE DAME AND HOTEL DIEU, PARIS . . THE GREAT STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC AT PARIS CASTLE GREGORY CHAPEL BRIDGE AND THE ANCIENT LIGHT- HOUSE AT LUCERN THE GREAT LION OF LUCERN GLENDALOUGH. VALLEY OF THE SEVEN CHURCHES MEETING OF THE WATERS IN THE VALE OF AVOCA, IRELAND "OLD NIAGARA" . . NIAGARA FALLS EMIGRANTS ON STEERAGE DECK PLAYING CARDS / Facing p. 120 124' 128 132 J 136 140' V 144 148 152' 156 160 168 176 184 208 216 256 264 280 XVI OUTWARD BOUND WE SAILED from New York July 18, 1903, on the steamship Hohenzollern, bound for Nap- les, Italy, and, after a pleasant but unevent- ful trip across the Atlantic, reached Gibraltar at 4 a. m., July 27. We were here unexpectedly entertained by the booming of cannon from a British fleet of fifty-two gun- boats, which lay anchored near the base of the great Rock. The gunners were having their morning drill. They made such an uproar, it appeared to us like genuine war. As our vessel was to remain several hours to coal up, we took advantage of the delay and went over in a small steamer to Gibraltar. This famous old town, with its irregular streets, military barracks, antique dwellings, grim batteries of defence and heterogeneous population of some 20,000 people, presents an unusual and interest- ing spectacle to the tourist. British officers and soldiers, Turks, Jews, Mohammedans and in fact representatives from nearly all parts of the world are to be met in the streets and hotels. I found it a very interesting place in which to spend a few hours but would not wish to remain there long, as it was so very hot and oppressive. Even the leaves of the trees were covered with a thick coating of dust, as it had not rained for several weeks. I noticed that many of the lawns and gardens were ornamented 2 INCIDENTS OF with great growths of cacti and oleanders, some of the latter attaining a height of fifty feet or more. They were covered with a profusion of luxuriant pink blossoms. Pepper trees, the kind that furnish us with the ordinary black pepper, are used for shade — a rather paradoxical idea to have such heat producers used as coolers. The modes of transportation are very curious and primitive. Huge two-wheeled carts are drawn by weary mules. Small burros, with loads on their backs many times the size of their little bodies, enhance the antiquity of the scene. Looking across from the town we could plainly see the northern coast of Africa which at this point is but a few miles distant. We, of course, visited the famous Rock, honeycombed throughout with cavernous tunnels, which practically make it one vast shell. Huge cannon pierce its sides in every direction so that it might be compared with a mammoth porcupine, as its surface fairly bristles with death-dealing guns. As we wearily trudged along through those wind- ing ways that lead to the summit, we recalled the famous labyrinth of Crete and fully realized the impregnable con- dition of the great Rock of Gibraltar. Our ship having been replenished with coal we re- sumed our journey up the Mediterranean and were treated, that very evening, to the gorgeous spectacle of a sunset on its dark blue waters that thrilled all beholders. Sky and ocean were lit up in a blaze of glory; the sun, as it dipped down to the sea, resembled a mammoth ball of burnished gold resting on purple clouds. The heavens around it were brightened with a halo of crimson that melted away in the heavenly vault above, while the rippling waves were tipped with the hues of EUROPEAN TRAVEL 3 dancing rainbows; a spectacle fit for the Gods of Olympus. The first Sunday morning after leaving Gibraltar we were gently aroused from our slumbers by melodious warnings that seemed to come from a deep toned organ of some grand old cathedral. Later on we were told it was the ship's band that afforded the agreeable surprise. This same band frequently entertained us during the voyage with choice music which whiled away many a pleasant hour and rendered our "home on the rolling deep" very agreeable. The northern shores of Sardinia, which we passed July 29, are a great contrast to the beautiful Azores. Their barrenness reminded me of the cheerless hills of New Hampshire on a weird November day. It seemed a fit country for the many brigands that infest it. We had no desire to land, as we didn't wish to risk our lives or hand over our hard earned shekels for a possible ransom. II ITALY WE ENTERED the Bay of Naples on a pleasant July morning and as we surveyed the scene before us we fully realized that all said or sung in praise of this beautiful bay was well merited. Someone, in his enthusiasm, has said, "See Naples and die." Well, we did not at that time feel exactly like "shuffling off this mortal coil." On the contrary we just then began to realize that life was really worth living, when Nature had been so generous in giving us such de- lightful surroundings as we were then and there enjoying. As our good ship Hohenzollern steamed up the bay we were surrounded by the natives in small boats or skiffs trying to sell fruits, souvenirs, curios, etc. They would come alongside and hand up to us, on long poles, their merchandise that we might patronize them. The novelty of their manner of doing business led many of the passengers to make purchases. NAPLES Naples is a grand old city. It is built like a crescent around the beautiful bay and might be likened to a mam- moth amphitheatre, as it rises in gentle slopes back from the water. The churches and houses are handsome and substantial. It would be an ideal city were it not for the execrable custom of hanging dirty garments out of the windows and on lines across the street. It is a pitiable EUROPEAN TRAVEL 5 sight to behold magnificent rows of houses thus disfig- ured by loaded clothes lines and ragged garments. Right here is, I think, the proper place to expatiate a little on some Italians' mode of living and their habits. In Southern Italy many of the inhabitants do not seem to have any affection for cleanliness. In fact they really have a love for the contrary. In Naples filth is seen on every side and it would appear that the lower classes fairly delight in every opportunity to brazenly display their defiance of hygiene. Walking along the streets you will often be obliged to step off into the gutter to avoid stumbling over lazy loafers who lie stretched at full length across the walks. They are filthy in their dress and habits and it is a wonder they have any sort of health. In spite of all this they not only live but multiply until the country fairly swarms with them. The farther you go south the more slovenly they seem to be, until you reach Calabria and Sicily, where condi- tions are worse. Of course I am now speaking of the ignorant and vicious ; that same class which forms a large percentage of immigrants who are filling up this country with undesirable citizens. They are the same people that "leave their country for their country's good'* and come to America to inflict themselves on a law abiding and in- dustrious community. One would think that people who leave their homes for the ostensible purpose of bettering their condition would behave themselves when they reach a land of plenty and prosperity. Many are no sooner landed, how- ever, than they set about breeding disorder and looking for trouble. I think that if the Italian government would establish an educational bureau in America to teach these 6 INCIDENTS OF raw recruits a few salutary lessons, immensely more good would be accomplished than is now being done by sending emissaries to darkest Africa or the wilds of other distant regions. In the above remarks, I, of course, refer only to the lowest stratum of the Italian proletariat. In Italy I met people of the highest culture. It seems that the farther north you go, the more intelligent the inhabitants become. In Rome, 160 miles north of Naples, as everybody knows, the intelligence, the learning and the fame of centuries abide. The Rome of to-day possesses all the refinements and progress of the twentieth century. I never met a more enlightened and brilliant people than I did in the Eternal City. When you get up as far as Florence, Genoa, Ven- ice or Milan you will notice that the people are larger, stronger and more energetic than those in the southern cities. That condition is no doubt due to better environ- ment and atmosphere, it being cooler and more conducive to muscular development and a consequent growth of brain matter. The southern regions are warm and muggy and no doubt largely contribute to lethargic con- ditions and consequent shiftlessness of a great portion of the inhabitants. Well, to return to Naples. I must say it is one of the most interesting cities in all Europe, even if some of its inhabitants are lazy and improvident. Its churches, muse- ums and theatres are very elaborate. Among its popula- tion are the most learned and aristocratic families in all Italy. Its hospitals are among the best in the world and its hotels are of the highest order and afford every modern convenience. We stopped at the Hotel Vesuve which stands on high ground fronting the great bay. From its EUROPEAN TRAVEL 7 balcony we could plainly see dense clouds of smoke and murky vapor pouring forth from the great volcano across the water. At night the eruptions were lit up with mammoth tongues of fire that added a dreadful grandeur to the thunderous pyrotechnics of the restless mountain. We visited the San Carlo Opera House, one of the largest in the world. A real Italian opera was being given at the time. Most of it we could not understand to our satisfaction, but the elegant costumes and finished technique supplied the deficiency. The Aquarium, said to be the most elaborate in the world, contains a vast variety of the denizens of the deep. We saw there an octopus or devil fish, said to be the larg- est one in captivity. This grotesque conglomeration of animal life is very properly named, as his forbidding appearance strongly suggests all that is Satanic. His fierce, rapid and ugly gyrations would lead one to believe that he was constantly seeking some unfortunate whom he might devour. The great cathedral or Duomo of St. Januarius is a very ancient and elaborate structure. It contains many relics, among which is a vial of the blood of its patron saint. It is said to liquify on every anniversary of his martyrdom. The sacristan showed us four immense can- delabra which, he said, were taken from the Temple at Jerusalem. A COLLECTION OF ANTIQUES The musuem at Naples contains the most valuable col- lection of antiquities in the world except that of the Vatican. Here are to be seen statuary, marbles, ancient 8 INCIDENTS OF architectural designs and other works of art, dating away back to the early ages — long before the Christian era. I was agreeably surprised to come across some antique figures which really seemed like old familiar friends, as I had so often seen them described and illus- trated in the classical works that delighted my younger days at Old Niagara. I felt almost like going up to shake hands with them and perhaps would have done so were it not that they seemed so cold-hearted and indif- ferent. There is a room in one corner of this museum which contains many relics from the ruins of Pompeii that are unfit to be seen by anyone except archaeologists or med- ical men who may have an honest motive in studying the history of the past and the possibilities of human degrada- tion. No wonder that Pompeii was suddenly covered up and hidden under mountains of hot ashes and burning cinders ! A VI^IT TO CAPRI While at Naples our party, having resolved to visit the famous Blue Grotto on the Island of Capri, chartered a small steamer which stood ready at the dock. Waiting for some belated members we were entertained by an exhibition of fancy swimming and deep sea diving by amphibious natives. Their antics in the water were inter- esting and even wonderful ; some would beckon the pas- sengers to throw coins into the sea which they dove for and invariably caught in their mouths. The water was so clear that we could see the coins glisten as they rapidly went zigzagging toward the bottom. The divers skill- fully followed their uncertain course, and soon triumph- K c m 3 Pu h-l n> r/1 r rr > rn' :^ ^. W Ul ^ o 13' n ►^ Hh n 3 o c > I/) h- 1 in t— 1 c' ^ rt> H O ffi o W r-f- O td > H^, Uj 0) 0) O T1 ^ »5 CfQ ^ n> > ,_. ^ o r m C/2 EUROPEAN TRAVEL 9 antly returned with the money between their grinning teeth. Sometimes these men would dive beneath the steamer and come up on the opposite side, a feat that required much skill and endurance. Having enjoyed this novel exhibition for an hour or more we set sail for the Island of Capri. On board was a jolly lot of tourists who soon resolved themselves into a large family of pleasure seekers. Many volunteered a description of this famous grotto while others expressed anxiety to behold the wonderful place of which they had so often heard. Before reaching Capri we stopped at Sorrento, a beau- tiful old town on the coast. As we approached its harbor I noticed a variety of colors in the water near the shore, caused by reflections from the bottom which was covered with particolored stones and rocks. The effect was most beautiful and impressive. Orange, green, purple and red would, in turn, become clearly visible as the boat moved slowly along. Sorrento is now but the remains of an ancient city which is even older than Rome or Naples. It contains many interesting ruins, among which are those of a tem- ple to Neptune. It is famous as being the birthplace of Tasso whose life was one of sorrow, disappointments and triumphs. As we sat on the veranda of the Grand Hotel, taking a midday lunch, we were entertained with music by wan- dering minstrels dressed in fanciful costumes that might have been brought from fairyland. In front of us, and below our table, was a large vineyard of ripening fruit. The vines were loaded with huge bunches of luscious grapes of many varieties and colors. Here and there. 10 INCIDENTS OF between the trellises, could be seen young orange trees filled with fruit in all stages of growth, the green afford- ing a beautiful contrast to the ripened oranges on the same tree. This, added to the white blossoms and the glossy leaves, made a combination of colors that must be seen to be appreciated. THE BLUE GROTTO Capri, in the Bay of Naples, looks from a distance like a huge, craggy monument rising out of the sea. Its bold outlines, declivities and rugged sides strike the be- holder with an awe akin to reverence. It appears to look down on the beholder with a frown of ancient dignity that makes one feel his physical inferiority. In presence of this great sentinel of the sea I felt almost timid. Here were fought many battles in ancient times and hundreds of the vanquished were hurled headlong into the sea from the very rocks we were walking upon. Tiberius, the profligate Roman emperor who ruled the destinies of the empire at the time of Christ's sojourn on earth, made Capri his summer home. Here he reveled in all the dissipations known to a pampered potentate. I never had any respect for this emperor as I always im- agined he could have prevented the crucifixion of our Saviour if he so desired. I suppose, however, in the midst of his pleasures and revelries he never heeded or gave a serious thought to the supreme tragedy of Jerusa- lem. The greatest attraction of this island is the wonderful Blue Grotto. As the passengers left the steamer they were placed in little boats which were to take them to the EUROPEAN TRAVEL 11 interior. It was necessary that the skiffs should be quite low, as the opening was very small and could be entered only when the tide was out. In our skiff were two gen- tlemen and a lady besides the boatman. We were all told to lie down on our backs as we floated in, for other- wise we might be injured by striking against the over- head rocks. The lady, who was young and giddy, did not pay much attention to the boatman's warning and re- mained sitting bolt upright until she received a blow from overhead which cut an ugly gash in her forehead and violently knocked her over backward where she lay in a swoon for some time. The boat was drawn in by an unusual process. A long overhead chain strung along the underside of the arch was fastened at both ends. The boatman, by grasp- ing this while lying on his back, was enabled to draw his tiny craft to the interior. As soon as we arrived within the grotto I was obliged to attend the lady's injuries which were quite serious and took some time. This un- fortunate accident somewhat marred the pleasures of the day. Once inside we found ourselves sailing about in a large cavern whose waters were a brilliant blue and cast glim- mering reflections of the same bright color on the rocky roof above. For our entertainment young boys swam about in the cerulean waters which gave their little bodies the appearance of being covered with polished silver. When we placed our hands in the water the same wondrous phenomenon appeared. The cavern within was as bright as day although no light was let in except through the small opening by which we entered. I can account for this unusual state 12 INCIDENTS OF of things only from the fact that the waters were highly phosphorescent. History hints that many secret passages led from the palace of Tiberius above to this mysterious cave and that it was often used as a place of refuge for royalty in times of danger. We ascended to the top of the island by a long and tortuous road where we visited an ancient town which now seems but the ruins of a former city of some im- portance. Men, women and children rushed out into the streets to greet us, the latter entertaining us with a wild sort of dance or frenzy, known as the tarantella or spider waltz. It is so called from the imitation of spasms or convulsions occasioned by the bite of the venomous tarantula. It was very effectively carried out by the natives who were well versed in their hideous imitations of the victims of this poisonous insect. THE RUINS OF POMPEII Near the base of Mount Vesuvius once stood Pompeii a beautiful city. It was full of life and gaiety. Its in- habitants were prosperous and happy until a calamity be- fell them that has never before or since been equaled in the history of any time or place. One summer morning in the year 79 A. D. the sky be- came suddenly darkened and the light of the sun was blotted out as if by a fuliginous pall that covered the earth. Ominous thunders and fiery eruptions from the great volcano added terror to confusion. Soon all were overwhelmed with showers of hot cinders and burning ashes which so suddenly and completely covered the city W j_ EUROPEAN TRAVEL 13 and its inhabitants that even the site of Pompeii was lost and forgotten for ages. In the 17th century the ruins of this unfortunate city were accidentally discovered by laborers who were dig- ging in a vineyard. Not until the beginning of the 19th century were any exploratory excavations made. Sys- tematic examinations proved this locality to be the site of an ancient and long forgotten city. To see the destruction wrought in so short a time by the great volcano, impressively fills one with the most profound respect for the powers of old Mother Nature and a good deal of uncertainty as to the permanency of all things human. We saw many well preserved bodies that were recovered from the ruins. Their con- torted shapes would indicate that death came to them in an unexpected and painful manner. Loaves of bread taken from the ancient ovens were black, but as perfect in shape as when placed there many centuries ago. In the neighborhood of Pompeii and around the base of Vesuvius are many luxuriant groves of figs, oranges, lemons, olives and chestnuts. Oleanders there grow to an enormous size. Pepper trees are very com^non, being largely grown for their foliage. The bathing beaches are covered with a black sand, no doubt cast there by former eruptions of the volcano. TIVOLI Qur visit to Tivoli, seventeen miles northeast of Rome, was full of interest, as there we beheld the site of a city that was once the rival of Rome in grandeur and enter- prise; in fact it was founded many centuries before the 14 INCIDENTS OF existence of Rome. It is situated on an eminence 830 feet above the sea. The river Anio here falls over a ledge of rock into an abyss several hundred feet below. It reminded me much of Niagara with its Softened thunders Of watery wonders Like sacred music magnified. Father Joseph, rector of the church of the XII Apostles in Rome, who was with us, suggested that we descend to the foot of the fall in the gorge the Anio had made by the constant wear of the waters during untold centuries. With cautious steps and the friendly assistance of trees and shrubs which prevented a too rapid glide, we walked, slid and stumbled downward until the bottom was reached. We here beheld the seething abyss into which the raging Anio plunged, and stood in profound awe and admiration of the mighty cataract as it came from above, seemingly out of a great opening in the clouds. Our guide showed us the home of Horace, the great Latin poet of classical times. It is situated on a hillside just out of Tivoli. Looking at the home that once pro- tected the gifted scholar, I became somewhat sentimental and wondered if one of his famous verses would apply to me, during my stay in the neighborhood. I will quote it: "Quocunque rapit tempestas deferor hospes." Wherever the winds carry me I am a guest. IN THE GORGE OF THE ANIO After wandering along the mossy slopes and among EUROPEAN TRAVEL 15 the fallen rocks that alternately adorn the shores of the lower Anio, we resolved to return to the upper regions. When we fully realized the stupendous effort required to retrace our steps, we were nearly discouraged with the task before us. I simply remained in statu quo for a time and meditated on the famous lines of Virgil, when he said: "Facilis decensus Averno, sed revocare gradum: hoc opus, hie labor est." The descent to Avernus is easy, but to return, This is the work, this is the labor. In looking about for ways and means to make our return journey, it dawned on me that if it were difficult for the male portion of the party to climb the rugged heights, it would simply be impossible for Mrs. Doyle to accomplish the Herculanean task. While in a quandary as to the proper procedure, we were approached by two stalwart natives carrying a sedan chair. They offered to transport the lady to the top. I was so pleased to obtain their services that I immediately engaged them and told them they might exercise their muscles by carry- ing her to the top of the gorge as quickly as they could. They set about their task with a vim that was truly en- couraging, but their enthusiasm cooled off considerably before they had gone many yards, as Mrs. Doyle is by no means a light weight, being able to send the indicator of the scales to a very respectable figure. We trudged along ahead, aiding our upward movements by holding on to friendly branches that greatly assisted us. We would frequently stop and look back to see how the chair 16 INCIDENTS OF carriers were getting on. The patient fellows were laboriously tugging away with their generous burden which caused them to take frequent rests. They finally reached the top and gladly set down their sedan, while they mopped the perspiration from their swarthy brows and puffed like a pair of exhausted athletes. I really pitied them and asked the price of their labor. They humbly held out their hands, saying that twenty soldi (a few cents) was their fee. I added a gratuity which I thought they had richly earned. Here are the famous sulphur baths, patronized by the elite of Rome and the surrounding country. The water from the springs, which are constantly bubbling up like a boiling cauldron is of a creamy-white color and looks like the richest milk from a first-class dairy. The edges of the spring and the surrounding footpaths are con- stantly coated with a thick layer of the purest sulphur, which lends a golden enchantment to the dancing waters of the health giving springs. We remained for some time enjoying the innocent antics of the Roman youth while disporting themselves in the lacteal-hued baths of Tivoli. Tivoli, which was the summer home of Hadrian, has a fascination for the tourist and antiquarian that is seldom surpassed. As we leisurely rambled through the ruined castles and abandoned gardens, we could not but reflect on the grandeur that existed there in the days of long ago ; and think of the gay throngs that once peopled those silent ruins. We thought of the glory that fadeth away. Statuary and architectural ornaments that formerly em- bellished this ancient city are now scattered throughout the many museums of Europe. > d 01? O "^ 03 !~^ p- JaS CO CO C ft 6 c to S' fj tn o ? < :: 2 n r CO I— I I— I (T) 3 ^ u ~ I— I o m ^ CO C ►-• to „. _ 3 ^•tW^' )^'-\ EUROPEAN TRAVEL 17 PADUA This home of a great university, which was at its zenith in the thirteenth century, is situated on the river Bacchig- Hone in the province of Venetia. Here the famous Galileo and Tasso taught and St. Anthony preached his soul stirring sermons. It must have been a great city in ancient times, for history tells us it raised an army of 200,000 men to fight the Romans at Cann^. The great Livy was born in its suburbs. Padua was the first city in which clinical medicine was taught. In the sixteenth century De Monte gave bed- side lectures in the hospital of St. Francis. Post-mortem examinations, to ascertain the cause of death, were also first held in this ancient and progressive city, and here the study of anatomy had its inception. On my arrival the streets were so flooded that it was with difficulty I visited the many shrines and ancient palaces for which the city is noted. Not having fully recovered from an attack of Roman fever, the flood and damp atmosphere augmented the unwelcome chills that were rapidly chasing up and down my spinal column. Finding no one to converse with in good old Syracuse vernacular I felt pretty lonesome, and the surrounding atmosphere had a decidedly cerulean tint; about three shades darker than desirable. After due reflection I resolved, then and there, to return home as soon as pos- sible. Trains were delayed, in fact they had ceased run- ning on account of the recent floods, and I was in a genuine, double jointed dilemma. Not feeling in the best of moods, I strolled around to the church of St. Anthony and during the course of my meditations, 18 INCIDENTS OF respectfully and reverentially promised the time-honored old saint that if he would assist me, as speedily as possi- ble, to get out of his town I would not trouble him again for many a long day. As all trains were abandoned I was obliged to charter a barouche or voiture to take me to Vincenza, about twenty-five miles distant. The price demanded for the antiquated rig was far beyond the value of the whole concern. Paying in advance for the trip, I supposed I was sole owner, for the time being at least. Half way to Vincenza he took in more passengers; two women, ap- parently a mother and daughter, both old and crabbed enough to engineer pink teas. As they spoke nothing but Italian, no introductions were indulged in and we rode silently on. I noticed that the younger one had teeth as black as ebony. While I was trying to make out a diagonsis as to the cause, she complacently drew forth from the pectoral folds of her red calico dress, three long slender rolls of tobacco that were, no doubt, intended for cigars; they looked like Pittsburgh stogies with a straw running through the center. She offered one to me and one to the old lady. Lighting hers she smoked tranquilly during the remainder of the journey. Fearing my teeth would get as black as hers I did not incinerate mine. VINCENZA Arriving at the little city of Vincenza I surrendered the old establishment to the coachman, who asked the station master to tell me he wanted a bonus or gratuity. Feeling that I had already paid an enormous price for his services I told the interpreter to translate into proper and vigorous Italian the following proclamation: Your EUROPEAN TRAVEL 19 victim emphatically protests against being swindled any more by such an avaricious biped. A LANDSLIDE At Vincenza I boarded a train for Verona. Between the two cities there are many mountain tunnels. Rapidly rolling along we were suddenly held up by a landslide, caused by the heavy rains of the previous fortnight. A loud rumbling was heard and, looking out of the car window, we saw, just ahead, what seemed to be the whole side of a mountain sliding down onto the track in the form of an avalanche and completely filling up the entrance to the tunnel we were about to enter. Surely a narrow escape, for if that section of the mountain had fallen onto our train we could easily have dispensed with the services of an undertaker. We were detained for many long and tedious hours in this lonely Alpine gulch, with more threatening landslides on either side; all the time anxiously seeking ways and means of escape from impending danger. Men were called in from the neighboring vineyards and set to work carrying out the fallen dirt in baskets on their heads ; a slow process I assure you, when our anx- iety to escape is taken into consideration. As soon as sufficient earth was removed, so that a small opening in the top of the tunnel could be made, the passengers were forced to climb up the huge accumulation of soft mud in order to reach a train on the other side. Well, I thought to myself, this is one of the places where anticipated pleasures of travel fail to fill fond expectations. Rein- forcing my courage, I climbed, half wading, half walking, through the slimy ooze until I got over into the tunnel. 20 INCIDENTS OF Down, down into its dark and gloomy depths I descended. The padrone who was carrying my grip, while walking through the dark passage, suddenly and silently disap- peared into a deep trench where he had fallen. I felt now that my earthly possessions, as well as my hopes, had gone forever. We tenderly hoisted him out, grip and all, and carried him to the mouth of the tunnel. The open air seemed to quickly revive him, so much so that he could be led away by his companions. The train, which stood waiting for us at the exit of the tunnel, was now boarded and we were soon on our way to Verona. Approaching the city, we had to cross the great river Adige. Just before reaching it, how- ever, we were informed that the floods had carried away nearly the entire bridge and that we would have to remain where we were all night — a bright prospect for an anxious traveler; sick, sore and sorry, yearning for the comforts of his happy home. After roaming about in Egyptian darkness and unexplored regions for some hours, drenched to the skin with torrential rains, I set out to ascertain the possibility of crossing the mighty flood that formed a barrier to my homeward progress. I dis- covered that the ancient stone bridge, which had withstood the storms of centuries, had at last yielded to the angry torrent that swept furiously down from the Tyrolean Alps. The entire flooring had fallen into the river — nothing but the side walls and abutments being left. A MIDNIGHT PERIL Although it was now far advanced into the night, with wind and rain adding to our misery, I resolved to reach the other side or "meet on that beautiful shore" in the EUROPEAN TRAVEL 21 attempt. Calling to my assistance a sinister looking Veronese, the only man I could find, I mounted the nar- row walls that were left standing and commenced my perilous journey to the distant, gloomy shores of Verona. My new-found friend was allowed to carry my luggage and even to clamber alons: before me on the wall. I was very willing to grant him precedence on this inter- esting occasion. Age, beauty or previous condition of servitude was not taken into consideration. Cautiously feeling our way in the darkness, often on hands and knees, along the trembling walls, I realized that my life hung on a single, slender thread. Our crumbling path- way was scarcely two feet in width and a single misstep or stumble would have instantly hurled us into the seeth- ing flood beneath. This ruined relic of the ancient bridge seemed fully a half mile in length. When the much longed for shore was reached I was so exhausted that I felt like lying down on the wet and muddy ground where I landed and wondered if life, under such adverse cir- cumstances, was really worth living. My reverie was soon rudely interrupted, however, by a loud and ominous rumbling, as of an earthquake. Instinctively and sud- denly peering through the darkness, where but a moment before I could perceive the faint outlines of the ruined bridge, I discovered that the entire structure had fallen into the water; no trace being left, save the abutments on either shore. I now fully realized the dangers of the undertaking just completed. Mastering what little strength I had I began to look around for some friendly shelter wherein I could rest my weary form. I was told that every hotel in Verona was flooded by the unusual and long continued rains, and 22 INCIDENTS OF accommodations could not be found in the city. The railroad station, situated on rising ground, was the only public place where I could get shelter from the storm. Here I found a miscellaneous crowd packed together like sardines, there being no room to even sit down or re- cline. I was informed that the train would not start until morning. What a bright prospect for a weary traveler, far from home and friends in a strange land, to stand all the livelong night in that miserable station, with a pro- miscuous crowd, many of whom might have been dan- gerous characters of the vilest sort. After a long and tedious night of anxiety and patient suffering, the much wished for dawn appeared, the bright and welcome sun arose in the orient and a humble mortal was made happy in the hope of once more seeing his domestic fireside. VERONA On my second visit to Verona I was accompanied by Mr. Henry A. Smith of Binghamton, N. Y. As we were about to enter the gates of the ancient city we were halted by a pair of arrogant officers who haughtily demanded to know who we were and where we came from, and even went so far as to examine very minutely our belongings. We endured the interruption with resignation, as we were aware that the Veronese have not yet awakened to the fact that the internecine wars of Italy are over. It was our good fortune to be there on the feast of St. Zeno. The entire city was in holiday attire and the streets were thronged with old and young, rich and poor bent on giving the greatest honor and glory to their patron. We went over to the ancient cathedral where EUROPEAN TRAVEL 23 the saint's remains were lying in state, decorated with the robes and insignia of his ecclesiastical rank. The little that remained of his corporeal form was but a flesh- less skeleton much darkened and decayed by the ravages of centuries. We were there told that Zeno was an African bishop of Verona in the third century. If such were the case the preservation of his remains for so long a time would seem to border on the miraculous. We had a guide whose English vocabulary was limited to about four words and a half, nevertheless we suc- ceeded in getting around Verona with fair satisfaction. Cathedrals and palaces claimed much of our attention but the most interesting feature shown us was the ancient Roman amphitheatre in a partial state of preservation, having not yet reached that dissolution which would prohibit complete restoration. It was built in the second and third centuries and what is left of it very much re- sembles the Colosseum at Rome. On its inner wall is marked the height of the waters in the great flood of 1882, the year in which I first visited Verona and crossed the ruins of the tottering bridge that trembled above the roaring Adige. The floods of that year were the most destructive ever known in Italy. As a matter of course we visited the tomb of Shakespeare's Juliet. It reminded me of an empty stone watering trough, the remains hav- ing long since been removed and scattered to the un- known. The homes of the Capulets and Montagues were shown us as interesting relics of the well known drama. From Verona we passed up through the Austrian Dolomites and the Tyrolean Alps whose beauty rivals that of the Swiss mountains. As the cars were rushing 24 INCIDENTS OF along through the rocky gorges and up the mountain grades I noticed in front of us two weary individuals who had succumbed to the seductive wiles of Morpheus. In their "peaceful slumbers" their heads swayed wildly to and fro with the motion of the swiftly moving train until they wabbled about like sunflowers in a high wind. One was a sleek, good-looking gentlemen, evidently of refinement; the other was a fat, thick necked old man with a plethoric nose. He reminded me of a well-fed rhinoceros. While beholding these wild gyrations I pre- dicted a collision and sure enough their heads came vio- lently together with a "dull, sickening thud" that startled us all. It is needless to say they were aroused and such fierce, mutual glares, mingled with dazed and quizzical expressions, I never before witnessed. I must say that the Italian railway "system" takes the medal (leather) for producing the most confusion in a given space of time of any concern in this busy world. The officers themselves don't seem to understand one another and when a station is reached a regular bedlam sets in and lasts long after the "conductor's" brass whistle toots the signal for departure. The hod car- riers of the Tower of Babel could have given them pointers on order and system with much benefit to their pandemonium. ST. MARK'S— GEM OF THE ADRIATIC What St. Peter's is to Rome St. Mark's is to Venice — the center of interest and admiration, the Mecca of all European tourists. Our first thought after arriv- ing in the city was to visit the famous Basilica. As we entered St Mark's Sqtjar^ I .spied a banking estab- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 25 lishment and went in to get some cheques cashed. When I entered I saw two gentlemen whom I took for Catholic clergymen. Feeling at home in such com- pany I ventured to introduce myself and was graciously received by the reverend strangers. In the course of subsequent conversation they mentioned Niagara Uni- versity when my heart gave an extra thump or two as I became suddenly interested. I eagerly asked if they were acquainted with that institution. The younger one immediately answered and said that his companion, Father McHale, was the president of "Old Niagara." I now felt perfectly at home as I am an alumnus of the same University. The gentlemen were now as much surprised as I was when I first learned their identity. After a pleasant conversation, relating mostly to my Alma Mater, they told me of their delight at being able to visit the wonderful church of St. Mark they had read of and heard so much about. As they had just returned from there they directed my attention to certain features that they warned me not to neglect seeing. Bidding them good-bye I hastened off to enter the church I had come so far to visit. Joining my companion, who had not entered the of- fice, we went over to the Basilica at the other end of the great square. As we entered, Mass was going on and we reverently knelt on the marbled floor, as there were no pews or chairs to be seen. The ceremonies were very impressive and solemn, and would have been more so were it not that we were greatly annoyed by beggars who persistently bothered us during the entire time we were there. 26 INCIDENTS OF After the services we were shown about the edifice by a guide who explained the principal objects of interest and showed us the tomb of the Evangelist St. Mark which is behind the high altar. The architecture of this church is so unique and ex- quisite that I will not attempt to write of it but will give my readers an extract from Ruskin's "Stones of Venice" that has never been surpassed for description. '"ST. mark's^ VENICE "Beyond those troops of ordered arches there rises a vision out of the earth, and all the great square seems to have opened from it in a kind of awe, that we may see if far away ; a multitude of pillars and white domes, clustered into a long low pyramid of colored light; a treasure heap, it seems, partly of gold and partly of opal and mother-of-pearl, hollowed beneath into five great vaulted porches, ceiled with fair mosaic and beset with sculpture of alabaster, clear as amber and delicate as ivory — sculpture, fantastic and in- volved, of palm leaves and lilies, and grapes and pomegranates, and birds clinging and fluttering among the branches, all twined together into an endless network of buds and plumes ; and in the midst of it the solemn forms of angels, sceptered, and robed to the feet, and leaning to each other across the gates, their figures indistinct among the gleaming of the golden ground through the leaves beside them — interrupted and dim, like the morn- ing light as it faded back among the branches of Eden, when first its gates were angel-guarded long ago. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 27 "And round the walls of the porches there are set pillars of variegated stones — jasper and porphyry and deep green serpentine, spotted with flakes of snow, and marbles that half refuse and half yield to the sunshine. Cleopatra-like 'their bluest viens to kiss' — ^the shadow, as it steals back from heaven, revealing line after line of azure undulation, as a receding tide leaves the waved sand; their capitals rich with interwoven tracery, rooted knots of herbage, and drifting leaves of acanthus and vine, and mystical signs, all begin- ning and ending in the Cross ; and above them in the broad archivolts, a continuous chain of lan- guage and of life — angels, and the signs of heaven, and the labors of men, each in its ap- pointed season upon the earth; and above these, another range of glittering pinnacles, mixt with white arches edged with scarlet flowers — a con- fusion of delight, amidst which the breasts of the Greek horses are seen blazing in their breadth of golden strength, and the St. Mark's Lion, lifted on a blue field covered with stars ; until at last, as if in ecstasy, the crests of the arches break into a marble foam, and toss themselves far into the blue sky in flashes and wreaths of sculptured spray, as if the breakers on the Lido shore had been frost-bound before they fell, and the sea- nymphs had inlaid them with coral and amethyst. "Between that grim cathedral of England and this, what an interval! There is a type of it in the very birds that haunt them; for instead of the restless crowd, hoarse voiced and sable 28 INCIDENTS OF winged, drifting on the bleak upper air, the St. Mark's porches are full of doves, that nestle among the marble foliage, that mingle the soft iridescence of their living plumes, changing at every motion, with the tints, hardly less lovely, that have stood unchanged for seven hundred years." FRATRES MISERICORDIAE One day during my rambles about Florence I met an unusual concourse of men on a bridge that crosses the Arno. They were dressed in long, black robes, and faces and heads were covered with cowls in which were holes for the eyes. So thoroughly were they disguised that one would not be able to recognize among them his long neglected creditor or even a bill collector. They seemed to stand at "parade rest" on the middle of the bridge. As I approached them a member stepped out of the ranks and coming over to me peered into my face as if he knew me and said something in Italian which I did not understand. I then spoke to him in Latin with which he seemed very familiar, asking him what society that was and why were they dressed so oddly. Before answering my question he apologized for his rudeness in looking at me so closely, saying he thought he knew me, and that I was an old friend from the Appian Way in Rome. That is the first time I was ever accused of being an Italian and a Roman citizen at that. He then went on to briefly explain the object and aims of this society. He said they were known as the Fratres Misericordiae or Brothers of Mercy, their order having been established EUROPEAN TRAVEL 29 in the Thirteenth Century. Its primary object was to mitigate the rigor of feudal distinctions and to enforce perfect equaHty of all men before God. It is composed of the wealthy and prosperous classes, among whom are many sons of noblemen. Their added duties now com- prise aid to the injured, caring for the sick and decent burial for the poor and friendless. The young men who compose this society are not known, even to their intimate friends. They wish to keep themselves incognito that their charity may not be lauded and also that their work may be more effectually done. When a young man of the order hears of an accident, happening in the street or elsewhere, he quietly glides out, even if he be in the midst of the mazy dance, slips on his black robe and hastens off to render assistance to some poor unfortunate. Such institutions are worthy of unlimited praise and imitation at all times and in all places. Much credit is also due the Church that has aided and encouraged them even from their very inception and also carefully guarded the principle of humanity against the encroachments of caste during the m.iddle ages, thus preventing the poor and helpless from being trampled under foot by a haughty aristocracy. ROME Ever since early childhood it has been my cherished ambition to visit Rome, the Eternal City. At last in 1882 my ardent longings were gratified. In that year I first went there. I also made three subsequent visits, the last being in 1903. In a condensed form I will endeavor to 30 INCIDENTS OF portray impressions obtained on those occasions, and to describe places and incidents without going into minute details. THE GREAT BASILICA Of course St. Peters is the center of attraction, not only of Rome, but of the entire Christian world. I will not attempt a description of this great Basilica, as it has so often been enshrined in prose and poetry that any effort on my part would seem superfluous. I will say, however, that upon entering this sacred edifice one is perfectly overwhelmed with the grand vista suddenly revealed to him. With the exception of Milan and Cologne and a few lesser ones, all other cathedrals on this mundane sphere dwindle, in comparison, to mere chapels. In this historical edifice are the tombs of popes, martyrs and confessors. Also in the great crypt beneath it lie the remains of kings, queens and emperors, among them being those of St. Peter himself. A hun- dred brazen lamps continually illuminate his venerated shrine. The lights, emblematic of Christian faith, are constant reminders of the religious devotion of all Christ- endom. CHRIST IN THE TEMPLE Among the many objects of interest to be seen in this delightful wilderness of priceless antiquities and superb works of art, is a marble pillar from Jerusalem which, tradition says, was held sacred from the fact that the Child Jesus was leaning against it when his parents found him in the temple disputing with the venerable doctors of the Mosaic law. As I remember it, the pillar or column is about ten feet high and fluted as we often see EUROPEAN TRAVEL 31 in modern buildings. The marble, which was originally white, is now a yellowish brown from age and really looks very ancient. It is only a fragment of the original and is inclosed by an iron railing of exquisite workman- ship. This ancient relic is an object of much reverential interest. As one beholds it and reverts to the Bible story of the sorrowing parents seeking the lost Child, his retrospective imagination carries him back to Solo- mon's Temple in the long ago, and the joyous moment when the fond parents found their Loved One leaning against the very pillar which you are beholding. The grand mosaics which adorn St. Peter's are a revel- ation to the novice. They are made of various colored marbles so skillfully inlaid as to represent lifelike figures and landscapes in the most impressive manner. When I first saw them I thought they were oil paintings and was so sure of it that I asked an attendant how many paint- ings there were in St. Peters. Astonished at my simple question he said there was not an oil painting in the entire church except one, and that was in the sacristy. In a great cathedral like St. Peter's one would expect to see gorgeous windows, stained and figured with relig- ious subjects but, strange as it may seem, there are no colored windows in all this vast edifice. They are filled with plain glass, that the interior may have all the light possible to give a proper effect to the numberless works of art. A SOJOURN ON THE ROOF OF ST. PETER's In my enthusiasm to see as much of Rome as possible I made the ascent to the top of the dome of St. Peter's. On t-he way down from the pinnacle I stepped out 32 INCIDENTS OF onto the roof as I reached the base of the dome. Here I became bewildered as I could not find the proper door leading to the great descending stairway. I wandered over the vast roof for nearly an hour before I could find anyone to show me the exit. In the mean time I utilized my exalted detention by examining and studying the various works of art with which the roof of this great church is adorned. Many former Popes have placed above the cornices their coat of arms in finely chiseled marble, giving dates and so forth, relating to important events of their respective reigns. At last my deliver- ance came in the person of one of the attendants who lived up there. By the way a great many persons dwell in little casas on the roof, but as they were nearly all on duty below I found it difficult to capture one when I wanted him. On another occasion I was on this same roof when the great bells of St. Peter's suddenly tolled out to the world the announcement that a pope had been elected to succeed Leo XIII. To fully describe my sensations on that memorable occasion would be impossible. Being so near the mammoth chimes the noise was fairly deafening but wildly musical. The great bells rang out with such vigor and so rapidly that the edifice fairly trembled under us. The strokes of the bells could not be distinguished on account of the prolonged vibrations of the chimes. At a distance the airs, no doubt, could be made out, but to us, in the midst of the clamor, it seemed more like the buzzing that might come from a colony of a thousand beehives, with each noisy bee as big as a polar bear. THE VATICAN If reports be true the Vatican is the largest palace on SI :^ < < I— I O > o H W < > H I— I n > EUROPEAN TRAVEL 33 earth. Romans claim it contains eleven thousand rooms. It does certainly look very large and as roomy as rumor claims. The exterior is not very attractive, as many additions were built at different times and by various constructors, thus depriving it of that uniform architect- ure we might expect in such a famous palace. The interior, however, contains treasurers of art far surpass- ing in beauty and value all other collections in the world. The statuary and paintings in its immense museum are originals, no copies being allowed standing or hanging room. Many sculptors and painters from all parts of the world are constantly making copies of the precious works of art so highly cherished by all lovers of the beautiful. During the Chicago exhibition strong efforts were made for a loan of some of the original works of the old masters, but pleadings were in vain, as no money value could be placed upon them and insurance could not be thought of, as they could not be replaced in case of loss. The art treasures of the Vatican are so numerous and the galleries so vast that it is impossible for the visitor to give anything like a satisfactory description of the numberless objects of interests contained therein. I can only say, in a general way, that I was more than delighted to witness, in snowy marble and lasting bronze, the ful- fillment of my early day-dreams of the Greek and Roman classics as I read them at Old Niagara, in the happy days of long ago when buoyant youth and bounding ambition fired my zeal to know the history and various exploits of the heroes of antiquity. THE ANCIENT FORUM One of the most interesting localities in Rome is the 34 INCIDENTS OF Forum, so often described by travelers. It is a mine of vast historical treasures and is eagerly sought by studious antiquarians. As I wandered through its crumbling arches and among the fluted columns, retro- spection, with all its hallowed memories, recalled the fact that this portion of the Eternal City was once the scene of a civic life and national ambition that set the pace for all future time. Here was held the most important com- mercial transactions of the city. Here orators and states- men held forth to the frenzied throngs that often filled the vast area. The sculptured ruins afford a realistic panorama of present desolation and faded glory of former grandeur. THE MAMERTINE At the very edge of the Forum is the Mamertine Prison, a most noted relic of ancient Rome. It is one of the earliest structures of the city, being built many years before the Christian era. TuUy speaks of it in his works as the "Career media urbe imminens foro."* It was used as a dungeon for distinguished prisoners, its only opening or ingress being a circular aperture in the top of the arched roof, through which the victims were lowered. It is vividly described by Sallust when treating of the "conspirators," many of whom were here starved to death. The great Carthaginian general Jug- urtha, who was let down into this dungeon, killed himself by striking his head against the walls. As there was no way of escape, no water or food for the prisoners, they preferred a speedy death to prolonged torture. It was formerly called the Tullianum, and tradition has it that Sts. Peter and Paul were imprisoned here just previous * The prison in the middle of the city, just above the Forum. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 35 to their martyrdom. Our party visited this ancient prison. It consists of two stories, the top of the upper one being now on a level with the street, the result of the gradual accumulation of ages. The lower story, where the prisoners were kept, is reached by a modern stairway. A rude doorway of latter day construction now gives access to this ancient chamber of horrors. The grimy walls and roughly cemented floor are in keep- ing with its gruesome history. A little altar stands against the northern wall and visitors are shown a pool of water that springs up beside it which, tradition says, was called into existence by the prayers of St. Peter dur- ing his imprisonment. We each took a drink from it in honor of the occasion. As we were leaving the prison we were surrounded by a noisy troupe of ragged juvenile merchants who anxiously endeavored to sell us their wares, consisting of pictures of the Mamertine and doubt- ful souvenirs, also alleged photos and snapshots of some of the famous prisoners. Their enterprise and persist- ence would do credit to the noisy curbstone brokers of Wall Street. ; SANTA SCALA The Holy Stairway, located in a handsome building just opposite the church of St. John Lateran, is an object of much devotion for the faithful. It is said to be the identical stairs upon which Christ ascended and descended at the time of His trial before Pilate. It is even now in a good state of preservation. It is built of white marble. The treads and faces of the steps are covered with a dark wood resembling black walnut. Through this are many scroll-like openings which allow the visitor to see the original steps. No one is allowed to ascend these stairs 36 INCIDENTS OF except upon his knees. This reverential ceremony was performed by the writer on his last visit to Rome. THE CATACOMBS OF ST. CALISTA On the Appian Way just outside the old walls of the city are the famous Catacombs which fill one with re- verential awe when he reflects on the sufferings and de- privations of the early Christians. Here they hid from their persecutors, the pagan emperors and their minions. In little underground chapels they stealthily assembled to worship God and follow the teachings of Christ. Thousands were dragged forth from these subterranean refuges to expiate the pagan crime of Christian worship by an agonizing martyrdom. No rank, condition, or age was spared. Popes, bishops, priests and the faithful laity were alike sent to the martyr's stake or the glowing gridiron. Noble matrons, young virgins and even help- less infants shared alike the relentless cruelty of those inhuman monsters. After the long reign of religious persecution had some- what abated, these lonely caverns were used as burial places for the Christians. Now only empty tombs and crumbling sarcophagi line the dark and gloomy walls. Our guide with taper in hand led us on from gallery to chapel and from cavern to dungeon, giving us in the meantime the history of famous persons who were once buried there, at the same time pointing out their tombs. Among those shown was that of St. Cecilia and also many of the martyred Popes and Bishops. I became quite a favorite with the venerable white-cassocked guide when he found I could converse with him in Latin. He took me with him to the head of the procession which was composed of many American and English tourists. Some EUROPEAN TRAVEL 37 turned back after passing through a few of the galleries, as they feared they might lose their way. Younger mem- bers of the group even cried to return to the upper world. As many lagged behind I was afraid they might get bewildered and lost. Some did go back even before the subterranean journey was well begun. A few, in- cluding Mrs. Doyle and myself, kept with the guide who led us on, deeper and deeper into the bowels of the earth through winding paths that seemed to have no end. I confess that I myself became somewhat timid when I considered what might become of us if the guide's solitary little taper should go out and leave us all in Egyptian darkness with no knowledge of the way back to daylight, through the tortuous galleries. There is no exact knowledge as to the extent of those galleries but some say they extend for miles in every direction. Many indiscreet persons who have attempted to explore the Catacombs without guides have never returned to report their discoveries. THE CAPUCHIN CATACOMBS There are many other catacombs in and about Rome besides those of St. Calista. Among the best known are those of the Capuchins. They are located beneath the church of that order within the city proper. When a member dies his remains are buried in the inclosed area of the Catacombs. After the flesh is sufiiciently decom- posed to allow its easy removal from the bones, the lat- ter are cleansed and placed on the walls or the ceilings of the underground chapels. The fantastic arrangement of the bones is a revelation to all visitors. Nothing but an actual inspection or a photograph can give an ade- 38 INCIDENTS OF quate idea of the unusual sight presented. The side walls are decorated with bones artistically arranged so as to form arches and columns composed entirely of skulls and thigh bones. The ceilings are covered with ornamental patterns made up of segments or vertebrae of the spinal column and shoulder blades. Even the chandeliers are composed of arm bones and those of the hands and feet. The altars are "decorated" entirely with human bones. Under the osseous arches may be seen the ghastly remains of monks who died many years ago. Their bodies were embalmed and desiccated. They were then dressed in the habits they wore in life and placed in a standing position against the wall. With their ghastly heads hanging down or to one side they inspire the be- holder as specters of a frightful dream. No explanation as to the object of this charnel house was vouchsafed by the clerical guide, but it is quite evi- dent that it is sustained by the monks as a realistic re- minder of death — a silent but impressive sermon for all who behold it. I myself am inclined to believe that we meet, afflictions, disappointments and sorrows so often and in so many ways in this world that such an unusual display of human remains is entirely uncalled for and is rather demoralizing than edifying. THE CHURCH OF ST. PAUL Just outside the walls of Rome, and a short distance beyond the Catacombs of St. Calista is the Church of St. Paul. On our way there we stopped to visit the chapel of "Quo Vadis." It is built on the spot where, tradition says, Christ met St. Peter as the latter was fleeing from Rome. The Apostle, in surprise, addressed his Divine EUROPEAN TRAVEL 39 Master saying, "Domine, Quo Vadis" — "My Lord ! where are you going?" Christ replied: "I am going again to be crucified." It is a Httle octagonal oratory into which but a few persons can enter at a time. Its interior is very simple, being modestly decorated with religious emblems. As Mrs. Doyle and I entered St. Paul's nearby, we were met by a uniformed guide who wished to show us through the edifice. His vigorous attempts at making himself understood in English were so unsuccessful that I tried, by word and gesture, to make him understand that we wished no guide, especially one who could not converse in our language. He was very persistent, however, and by his actions clearly showed he was much nettled, and tried in every way to force his attentions on us. As we stood there trying to dispose of our unwelcome in- truder I noticed a priest praying before an altar op- posite. He seemingly became much interested in the unsuccessful attempts of the attendant to secure the "pleasure" of showing us around. Rapidly walking over to us in a lordly manner and apparently much ex- cited he demanded, in very vigorous Italian, why we did not accept the services of the guide. Understanding enough of his language to interpret his meaning, I promptly answered back in Latin, telling him our reasons. When his Reverence heard the language of the Caesars coming from the mouth of an American tourist, he was simply astounded and stood for a moment as if dazed. He then rushed over to me with both hands extended in friendly welcome, telling at the same time how glad he was to meet us and that he himself would be pleased to show us around the church. 40 INCIDENTS OF The interior of this church is one of the most beautiful I have ever beheld. It contains the greatest and richest collection of precious marbles in the world. The altars are built of marbles of various shades and colors, rival- ing the hues of the rainbow. The great columns of ala- baster that support the roof are so translucent that the light of a candle can be seen through them. The popes, from Peter to Leo XIII., are remembered in mosaic medallions that are built into the walls, over the win- dows. The likeness of each pope is as authentic as could be obtained and is somewhat larger than life size, so that from a distance they may appear in proper pro- portions. The body of St. Paul is buried here, also that of St. Timothy. THE TREASURY OF ST. PAULA'S Our attention was directed to the treasury where the most precious relics and souvenirs are kept. We were shown a piece of the true cross about seven inches in length, also a skull which our guide said was that of a man who was a companion of Paul's, and a staff which Paul carried on his tours through Rome and the adjacent country. The chains which bound St. Paul in prison were handed us for inspection. It is about ten feet in length and is black and much polished by the handling it frequently receives from the Christian, the skeptic, the agnostic, etc., who go there to satisfy either laudable veneration or an idle curiosity. Among the many relics shown us was that of the arm of St. Anne, the mother of the Blessed Virgin. It is encased in a casket of gold, the top of which is covered with rock crystal as clear as the finest glass. Through EUROPEAN TRAVEL 41 this we saw the remains of a hand and arm. They were dried, shriveled and of a very dark brown color — almost black. I said to our guide that I understood they had the arm of St. Anne in Canada. "Oh, yes !" he replied. "Some gentlemen were here from that country and asked for a relic of St. Anne ; we gave them a very small piece from this which they now have at St. Anne de Beaupre." THE CHAPEL OF THE THREE FOUNTAINS Situated a short distance from the church, of St Paul, in the midst of a beautiful eucalyptus grove on the Campagna is the Chapel of the Three Fountains. This chapel was built in commemoration of the martyrdom of St. Paul. Tradition says it stands on the identical spot where he met his death. In the chapel are shown three fountains or springs in the floor about ten feet apart. The legend has it that when St. Paul's head was severed from his body, it bounded three times on the ground. From each spot where it struck, sprang forth a fountain or pool of pure water. From each of these we reverently took a drink, in memory of the great evangelist. The chapel is constantly attended by a brotherhood of monks who are very courteous and attentive to visitors. The eucalypti, which grow here in abundance, are famed for their antimalarial qualities, and are a great boon to this miasmatic region. They were set out by order of the government. THE CHURCH OF THE TWELVE APOSTLES One of the most magnificent churches in the Eternal City, where there are over four hundred places of Divine worship, is that of the Twelve Apostles. It was presided 42 INCIDENTS OF over, at the time of our visit, by Very Rev. Joseph Lessen, better known as Father Joseph in Syracuse, where he was at one time Superior of the Church of the Ajssumption. (Father Joseph has since gone to his eternal reward). The venerable Father graciously accompanied us through the great edifice, and showed us, among other objects worthy of note, the tombs of the Apostles St. Philip and St. James. The last resting places of the saints are under altars which bear their names. He also showed us a most interesting collection of relics. Among them was a glass vessel containing an ounce of blood, said to be that of the martyred Apostle St. James. It is still in a fluid state, and in Rome is known as the "perpetual miracle." I held the reliquary in my hand and, turning it from side to side, could plainly see the red, liquid blood flowing backwards and forwards. A large nail or spike, nearly a foot in length, used in the crucifixion of St. Peter, was also shown. As we were passing through an outside corridor, Father Joseph pointed out to us the original tomb of Michael Angelo. It appears the illustrious architect, sculptor, painter and poet was first sepulchured in the walls of this church and remained there for many years. One gloomy night his body was surreptitiously removed from the tomb and taken to Florence, the home of his early days. It now rests there in the church of Santa Croce. />i FROM ST. Peter's dome During the author's fourth visit to Rome he made the ascent of St. Peter's dome and stood in the hollow ball or sphere that surmounts it. This ball, which appears to EUROPEAN TRAVEL 43 be about the size of an apple, when viewed from the Plaza 500 feet below, is really large enough to comfort- ably hold sixteen men. It is made of copper and has fenestral openings which allow the tourist ample facil- ities to view the entire city and the hills and plains beyond. The following lines were inspired while viewing the Eternal City from this great center of Christianity : Within the sphere, beneath the cross Upon St. Peter's mighty dome I stood, and looked far off upon The seven hills of ancient Rome. The sun had risen in the East In his resplendent glory- To gild the city and the plains. So famed in song and story. Cathedral chimes rang out below, As if exultant with the scene. And wildly, grandly echoed far Beyond Campagna's forest green. The streets and plazas lay below As like a wondrous map unrolled, And to my eager mind revealed A vision heretofore untold. O'er the ancient Colosseum And Father Tiber's yellow flood My vision far entrancing went As on this lofty dome I stood. Just below lay near together The marble bridge of Angelo And haughty Hadrian's castled tomb. The pride of Romans long ago. 44 INCIDENTS OF The Forum stands off to the right, The city's mart before the fall, Near Mamertine, where martyrs slept; Beloved Peter and St. Paul. The Appian Way, where victors led The royal captives, claimed as Rome's Winds out beyond the crumbling walls That guard the sacred Catacombs. Oh, how I loved recalling there Rome's mystic and historic lore, Her deeds of fame, her mighty past. Her glories of the days of yore. A MODERN PLEBEIAN My first visit to Rome was made memorable by a little incident that was trivial in itself but went far to illustrate the sudden enterprise of the swarthy descendants of the Plebeians. As our train rolled into the station, we were greeted with much noise and confusion, so common to Italian aggregations. Looking out of the car window I noticed a troup of very tall soldiers, none of whom was less than six feet in height. They wore gaudy uniforms and very bright brass helmets which emphasized their altitude to a surprising degree. I then realized the cause of the excitement. It was the King's Body Guard which had come to escort His Royal Highness to the City of Milan. I stepped down from the car and had nearly reached the platform when a wild-looking individual excitedly rushed up, and, without asking leave, suddenly grabbed my satchel, rushed out of the station, and ran pell mell EUROPEAN TRAVEL 45 down the street. I followed, of course, chased him sev- eral blocks and was almost in despair of catching him when he stumbled and fell. I was so close then onto his heels that I rolled over him but soon regained my feet and captured the rascal before he could get away. I held onto him until an officer rushed up, to whom I sur- rendered the thief, who proved to be one of a gang that frequently rob incoming passengers in this piratical manner. Thus was my initial entry to the Eternal City signal- ized. This lively incident gave me a very poor impres- sion of its modern proletariat. THE MYSTIC CITY Pleasures of travel are sometimes seasoned with trials and dangers that mar the happiness and dis- appoint the intentions of the tourist. In the summer of 1882 I was on my return from a visit in Rome and, not wishing to miss Venice, I made a detour in that direction. After a journey made tedious by the uncer- tainty and crudeness of the Italian railway system, I found myself in "the Mystic City of the Sea." Venice you know is built on one hundred and seventeen islands. It is not worried about paving contracts, for its streets are canals and its highways are surfaced with the rippling waves of the blue Adriatic. These canals were never dug. Nature formed them, and Art had only to straighten the banks of opposing islands to form the most complete canal system in the world. Sea water fills them and flows in every direction through the city. The ever changing tides keep the waterways purified. Venice with its grand canals, spanned by three hundred 46 INCIDENTS OF and eighty artistic bridges, is entirely surrounded by la- goons and the deep sea. With its grand palaces and gorgeous basilicas it affords an elysium for lovers of art and the beautiful that is nowhere else surpassed, but Byron said: "In Venice Tasso's echoes are no more And silent rows the songless gondolier Her palaces are crumbling on the shore And music greets not always now the ear." The Venice of to-day is but a sad remembrance of the great republic of bygone centuries. Long before Amer- ica was dreampt of, the nations of the world sought this great city of the sea for knowledge in the arts and sciences and improvement in laws and commerce. Now the voice of the weird and weary gondolier seems to mockingly echo from the walls of her deserted palaces, memories of her long lost power and glory. Withal, Venice has her charms and one is greeted on every side with artistic visions that would entrance the heart of a Raphael or capture the soul of Michael Angelo. The markets are a study for the stranger. Here, fish and vegetables peculiar to the country are sold in great quantities. Fruits of all kinds are very abundant and of the most delicious quality. Fish are much used by the people and even snails are eaten and considered a great delicacy. Among the vegetables I noticed what might be called a very large pumpkin ; it must have weighed at least one hundred pounds and was covered with large bunion-like excrescences or barnacles. I called it a bunion pumpkin. The people bake it and say it is an ex- cellent article of food. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 47 Extensive glass works turn out the finest ornamental glass to be found anywhere. As to lace, every lady knows what Venice can do in that line. In one lace es- tablishment we visited, forty-five hundred women and girls were employed and the overseer told us that a girl must be very skillful to earn what is equivalent to twelve cents of our money in a day. Lace at one hundred dol- lars a yard, at that wages, should yield a large profit to somebody. There is not a horse in all Venice, except the famous four in bronze on St. Mark's, as they have no use for them. Most of the paths or streets between houses are less than ten feet in width. People carry heavy bur- dens on their heads, larger ones are conveyed by gon- dolas that take the place of wagons or trains. The guide told us that the only large quadruped in the city was an elephant and asked us if we wished to go out to the gardens to see him. We replied in the negative and in- formed him that there were plenty of that species in America. He seemed astonished, but we assured him that it was nevertheless a well known fact. In the early dawn it is an odd sight to behold the Venetians in their queer but gaudy costumes gathered around the wells and carrying off water in their quaint copper pails. Men, women and children eagerly wait their turn at the lifting-bucket and with a merry smile or a ringing laugh walk off with pails, hung on sticks thrown across their shoulders. Venice has no water works, but depends entirely on her thousand wells for which she is noted. That sewage affects well water here does not seem to be proven as the health of the city is as good as any in Italy. The dismal Bridge of Sighs, with its marble floors, so 48 INCIDENTS OF often washed by the tears of anguish, was entered and crossed when these words of Byron came to mind : "I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs A palace and a prison on either hand." THE CARNIVAL OF VENICE The palaces of the old Doges and the Venetian nobility were pointed out to us; among them being that of the famous Lucretia Borgia. Last night the annual carnival on the Grand Canal took place. On a mammoth barge, decorated with flags and flowers, was a castle illuminated with thousands of lights, enclosed in glass globes of all colors. It was filled with the elite of Venice. A marine band, perched on its summit, gave forth melodious strains that sounded far down the Adriatic. This jubilee ship was escorted by hundreds of gondolas with their oars- men in brilliant uniforms. The scene was like the ful- fillment of some marvelous dream, and excelled, if possi- ble, the golden barges of Cleopatra on the Nile. My traveling companion, Mr. Henry A. Smith, and I were among the spectators who thronged the docks and slowly moved along, abreast of the marine display. Be- fore leaving our hotel the landlord admonished us to be- ware of pickpockets that generally infested such nightly throngs. As the crowd was very large and dense, we made an effort to keep together for mutual protection. With all our precaution we became separated. Mr. Smith, forging ahead in his anxiety to keep up with the pro- cession, got a few paces in advance of me. As I did not want to lose him, I followed and, reaching forward between the people with great difficulty, succeeded in getting the nether extremity of his coat-tail. I gave it a EUROPEAN TRAVEL 49 gentle jerk which caused him to suddenly jump up and whirl around in great alarm and clap his hands over his pockets, as he thought he was being robbed. This un- expected and rapid movement caused much excitement in the crowd and almost raised a panic. In the confusion that followed a couple were crowded off the dock into the water but were quickly rescued. This latter incident was quickly forgotten as the Venetians are almost as much at home in the water as on shore. This reminds me that I often saw parents in Venice letting their children down out of the windows, to take a swim in the dark blue waters of the Grand Canal. The little ones were securely held by long scarfs or shawls and allowed to wiggle along on the surface of the water much after the fashion of young tadpoles. The baby swimmers would vigorously paddle away and fairly scream with delight as they enjoyed the watery element which would be so evident in their future lives and sur- roundings. As we were being gently wafted in a gondola along the Grand Canal one pleasant evening, I noticed a dove struggling in the water. It was evidently in great pain, as if wounded. I asked the gondolier to stop, that I might reach out and save it if possible, but he either misunderstood me or was indifferent to my appeal. It was to me a most pitiful sight and I yearned to rescue the bird whose ancestors had once saved Venice. The doves of St. Mark's, of which you have so often heard, are a grand reality, numbering some twelve thous- and. At exactly two p. m. they are called in from the lagoons and suburbs by the ringing of the city bells. It is a novel sight to behold the confidential eagerness with 50 INCIDENTS OF which they accept food from the hands of visitors, and the people seem equally anxious to feed them. They will perch on the heads and shoulders of persons stand- ing around and become very familiar. I had four on my hand and arm at one time. It is said the doves once saved Venice by acting as messengers and it is a crime, punishable by imprisonment, to injure one of them. Yesterday we went to the Island of Lido, two miles from the city. This is the Coney Island of Venice. On pleasant afternoons the people of the city assemble here and enjoy bathing in the surf. We joined the bathers and took a swim in the Adriatic, returning to the city much refreshed. THE FIRST PAWN SHOP To leave Venice without crossing the Rialto would be an unpardonable omission on the part of the observing tourist. The grand old structure is as unique as famous. For centuries it was known as having the longest single arched span of any bridge in the world, but modern struc- tures have now far exceeded and robbed it of that dis- tinction. As it has been so often described and pictured I will not say more than to confirm the laudations of writers and poets who have embalmed its history and its beauties in immortal verse. Shakespeare makes Shylock speak thus : "Signer Antonio, many a time and oft In the Rialto you have rated me About my moneys." By the way, the first pawn shop ever established, was pointed out to us where Shakespeare's Shylock lived and EUROPEAN TRAVEL 51 loaned. It is a prison-like affair with barred windows and fully dismal enough to be the home of a miser who sought to barter sordid gold for a pound of human flesh. Our Jewish neighbors now call their pawnbroker shops "banks," but "You may break, you may shatter the balls if you will The odor of usury hangs round them still." [Slightly modified from Moore.] GENOA A little before midnight on the 9th of September, 1900, we arrived at Genoa after a pleasant ride from Milan. By a guide we were shown the most interesting places of the city, situated as it is around a gulf of the Mediterranean. I understand it is socalled from an Italian word signifying knee, as they fancied the bend in the gulf was like that of a human knee. From an elevation it presents a most pleas- ant sight. The buildings of light colored stone are so situ- ated that the city forms a mighty amphitheatre with the sea in the foreground. When we were there we con- sidered ourselves at the terrestrial hub, as the ancients, before Columbus discovered America, called it the cen- ter of the earth. Here Columbus lived and went to school. Some writers say he was born in a little village some distance from Genoa, but the best author- ity claims he was born in the latter place. Being anxious to still further commemorate the fame of this great discoverer, we drove out to where he formerly lived. As the street was very narrow, we were afraid our horses could not turn around in it to come back, and and as we did not wish to drive its whole length we concluded to leave the hack in a small plaza 52 INCIDENTS OF just at the entrance. Taking my camera in hand I asked Mrs. Doyle to go with me but she was tired from much walking in the morning, and preferred to remain in the hack where she was. I then took the guide with me and we trudged up a dark and dismal alley-way of a street until we reached the house. As the street was narrow, I could not stand far enough back to get a good photograph. The guide then took me to the third story of a tenement just opposite, where I could get a better position. Up two rickety flights of stairs we went, and as we passed through the house to the front we were obliged to traverse the most dilapidated and poverty stricken set of rooms I ever beheld. Of course we asked permission to enter, but the inmates, men, women and children, stared at us as if we were inhabitants of Mars or some other distant planet, coming to do them some mysterious harm. The men especially, with their dark visages, crouching attitudes and searching looks, caused me to feel somewhat anxious and creepy for my personal safety. However, I succeeded in getting a good photo- graph of the home of Columbus from their window and supplemented my thanks for the accommodation with a few bits of silver for the children. When we returned to the carriage, where Mrs. Doyle was patiently waiting for us, she said she was almost frightened to death during our absence. A fierce riot took place around her carriage among a lot of women. It was the noon hour and it appears that the working wo- men of the neighborhood assembled there to while away the idle hour when not engaged in the factories nearby. They were drinking some kind of a very dark fluid — wine or beer from bottles. Whatever it was, it soon got EUROPEAN TRAVEL 53 in its work and they began to quarrel, fight, pull hair and yell like wild cats. Even the horses were so frightened they attempted to run away. One of the gardens, for which Genoa is famous, re- ceived our attention, and we were amply rewarded by walking through its winding paths, lined with orange, lemon and fig trees laden with luscious fruit. After riding about the city for several hours I found it very warm and sultry. The great heat was so oppressive that I resolved to go down to the sea and take a swim. It is not every day that an American citizen has a chance to tak-e a bath in the Mediterranean, so I availed myself of the rare opportunity and went out to a watering place on the coast where I found hundreds of men, women and children sporting in the clear blue waters of the classic sea. I found there some very clever swimmers. Many of them would remind you of the sleek-backed seals of the ocean, so agile were their movements in the deep, trans- parent waters. The Italians here take to the water with great gusto and show the result in their robust and sym- metrical forms. Mind you, these people live in northern Genoa and not in southern Calabria. No more polite or accommodating people have we met in all our travels. Their manners are polished and no idlers are to be met, except now and then a decripit or superannuated beggar — and they are not importunate. Great carts, heavily laden and drawn by six or eight horses driven tandem, are a common sight. The con- siderate drivers adorn their beasts of burden with minia- ture awnings perched on their heads to protect them from the scorching sun, so that the entire outfit made a strangely comical spectacle. The hubbub and confusion 54 INCIDENTS OF of the busy streets, which lasts far into the night, make sleep almost impossible. I was forcibly reminded that here babies cry, dogs bark and cats serenade for all the world as they do in America. PISA Our next sojourn was at Pisa. The ride from Genoa along the seashore can be enjoyed, but not adequately described. The moon was at its zenith and cast forth a golden light, peculiar to these climes, that reflected from the dancing waves of the midnight Mediterranean a glitter like that from the polished shields of ancient armies. The craggy rocks, the rich foliage, the over- hanging fig trees and the hedges of century plants make this coast a scene unsurpassed by the tales of Aladdin. The following morning found us ascend- ing the Leaning Tower or Campanile as they call it there. From its summit can be seen the Appenines on the left and the sea on the right and also the entire city. From its top Galileo made his experiments in gravitation. It is built of white marble and is about 180 feet high. Seven large bells hang in its apex. It deviates from the perpendicular fourteen feet. The great cathedral near the tower contains the identical chandelier from which Galileo first conceived the idea of the clock pendulum. Here also is the Campo Santo, or holy plain, to which seventy-eight shiploads of earth were brought from Jer- usalem that Pisa's sons and daughters might find their last resting place in sacred ground. THE INFERNO Around about the Campo Santo is a high wall on the EUROPEAN TRAVEL 55 east side of which are many scenes from Holy Scripture, painted long ago by renowned artists. They are of heroic size and represent the creation, the crucifixion. Heaven, the last judgment, etc. On the opposite side are some fierce and gruesome pitcures of Hell, which would terrify the most hardened infidel. The Infernal Regions are represented by the picture of a huge oven of great length. Its top is arched much like the coke ovens of Western Pennsylvania. On the top of this are openings that have lids apparently of bronze. Here and there could be seen covers partly raised, where some poor sinners were poking their heads out trying to get a whiff of cool, fresh air. With open mouths, staring eyes and parched tongues hanging out, it was truly a heartrending sight. To add to their misery the lurid flames never ceased to pour out on either side. One lid was raised nearly half up, when a devil dressed in scarlet asbestos tights, pushed back with a trident, like Neptune's, a poor unfortunate who was trying to escape. A little further on a devil has caught a sinner who is made to stand bolt upright facing him, while the poor fel- low's entrails are being taken out and rolled around the arms of his tormenter as on a spinner's reel. Just be- yond this is shown an escaping sinner who has been caught and made to stand still while his head is being longitudinally divided by a huge saw in the hands of as ugly a devil as Dante ever described. The victim stands firmly and quietly and wears a sort of a frightened smile as if it didn't amount to much after all. Many other similar scenes were graphically depicted on this abode of everlasting torment. It is no wonder the ancients were very scrupulous, as such realistic reminders 56 INCIDENTS OF of the wrath to come were enough to frighten them into obedience or something else. I don't believe this manner of mental discipline is at all proper. I prefer modern modes of teaching ; explanation and gentle exhortation. Word painting of a happy world beyond the grave, minus terrible threats of ever- lasting tortures for frail humanity, would accomplish more good than the lurid exhibition of gruesome and frightful caricatures. On our return home from this hair-raising spectacle we nearly ran against another of a more animated kind. Just ahead of us, as we were going to our hotel, we saw a wrangling crowd which was very much excited and boisterous. As we approached, we noticed a fierce battle was going on among an ugly looking lot of desperadoes. They were using stilettos freely and from the way many of them went to the ground I judged it was a fight to the finish. Not caring to let our curiosity get sufficient control over us to endanger our lives, we hastily turned the nearest corner and reached our hotel by a detour through the vicinity of the Leaning Tower. CORONATION OF PIUS X Just before we left for our European trip in July, 1903, we heard of the serious illness of Leo XIII. We were in hopes he would survive our arrival in Rome, but when our ship reached Gibraltar v/e were told of his death which took place the day before. Al- though the sad event had long been expected, on ac- count of his delicate condition and extreme age, the news caused a feeling of sadness that was very evident among all the passengers, creed or nationality making no EUROPEAN TRAVEL 57 distinction among those who mourned the loss of this truly great man — the wonder of the nineteenth century. On our arrival in Rome preparations were being al- ready made for the election of his successor. The Eter- nal City was in a state of subdued excitement. People were hurrying to and fro as if on some serious errand. Among the throng were numbers of the clergy who plainly betrayed great sorrow for their loss. After a day's rest at the Hotel Marini on the Via Tritoni, we went over to St. Peter's, where we learned the cardinals had already assembled and that the election for a pope was in progress. On the great Plaza in front of the Basilica were many thousands looking at the upper windows of the Vatican where the election was going on. It appears several ballots were taken before a choice was made. I asked a man, whom I took for a cleric, why they gazed so intently at the upper windows, as they could recognize no one at that distance. He said they were not looking so much at the windows as at a large chimney above them, and that after the voting, which had already been going on for two days, the ballots would be collected and burned in a fireplace in the great ■ hall, and when smoke was seen coming from that par- ticular chimney, it was a sign the choice had been made. We watched for a long time with the throng and were about to return to our hotel when we were startled with a loud huzza from the immense concourse of people on the plaza when they saw the ominous smoke pouring forth from the chimney. We then knew the meaning of the great commotion. The ballots were burning, the new pope was elected. Being now satisfied that the election was over, we 58 INCIDENTS OF entered our carriage and made a tour of the Appian Way for the special purpose of visiting the tombs of the former emperors of Rome, many of which border this famous old highway. It is needless to say they were very interesting. A full and detailed description of them would require one's time for many months, and copy enough to make a large volume. I was somewhat shocked and almost scandalized to note that modern irreverence had boldly planted ordinary telegraph poles on the last resting places of the famous emperors of ancient Rome. On our return to the Hotel Marini we immediately be- gan preparations to attend the coronation which we learned would take place on the following Sunday (Aug. 9, 1903). Most Rev. Dominic Renter, Superior General of the Franciscan Order, entertained us as his guests. Being very close to the papal throne, in fact so near that he was the chosen one to read the last prayers at the bedside of the dying Pontiff, Leo XIII, he was in a position to grant us many unusual favors which he very graciously did, and for which we are very thankful. All Rome was in a great state of enthusiasm on the following Sunday morning as we set out for St. Peter's. We thought we would be rather early, but when we reached the grand plaza we found it occupied by many thousands who had preceded us. A regiment of soldiers was stationed in front of the church to prevent the throng from entering until the signal should be given. Mr. Peters and I stood patiently waiting for an early oppor- tunity to get in, that we might secure a good position. Each of us carried a small stool, for you know there are EUROPEAN TRAVEL 59 no pews in St. Peter's. At the word of command the troops opened ranks and the crowd rushed like a tidal wave up the steps of the great portico. In the confus- ion Mr. Peters and I became separated and did not meet again until after the ceremonies. I succeeded in reaching a place in the church where 1 had an opportunity of obtaining a close view of the Pope when he passed on his way to the throne. The throng on that occasion was as great as the church could hold, for the number was estimated at 80,000. All the audience stood, none could sit even if they wished to. I found the stool I brought was useless, as I could find no place to put it. Seeing a woman standing near me who seemed fatigued I gave it to her, and in return for the kindness she placed it, by much pushing and crowd- ing, on the floor just in front of me and stood on it, thereby shutting out my view completely until I remon- strated. The crowd there was so densely packed that one could not raise his arms from his side except with the greatest difficulty. I could not even take out my watch. A man who stood beside me had a straw hat which he feared would be crushed if he held it down, and insisted on holding it above the crowd and just in front of my face instead of his own. I gave him a look of surprise which he did not seem to twig. So he boldly insisted on hold- ing there until I pushed his arm aside with more force than he expected, which caused him to grunt and growl out something I did not understand or care to. I should judge by his appearance and transcendent impudence that he belonged to that class of Bohemians who push their way in the world rather by foul means than by fair — a 60 INCIDENTS OF class that cannot be insulted and will act the coward when confronted by men who demand their rights. The heat on that occasion was more intense than any I had ever experienced, the crowd was one sweltering mass of humanity. Many fainted dead away and had to be removed by passing them over the heads of the standing multitude, as there was no other way of getting them out. At last, after standing for many hours in one spot so tightly wedged in that we could neither go forward or return to the open air, we heard in the dis- tance the faint echoes of martial music, we then knew the ceremonies had commenced. Soon a vanguard of buglers came up the spacious aisle. This was followed by a large concourse of ecclesiastical dignitaries from all parts of the world, dressed in their rich flowing robes as various as the different orders to which they belonged. The officers of the Papal household in their red and gold uniforms uniquely grand, preceded and surrounded the Sedia Gestatoria on which the Pope was seated. This was carried on the shoulders of picked men from the Papal guard. As I stood near the line of procession I was en- abled to observe His Holiness very closely, and no- ticed especially that he looked like a man who was being brought to the coronation against his will. He appeared worn; tired and even sad, as many remarked who stood near me. Pius X, is a fine looking man with a noble, fatherly expression which was even emphasized by his apparent sadness. The ceremonies were grand, but so long and tedious that every one connected with them seemed almost pros- trated. We poor plebeians who had to stand stock still EUROPEAN TRAVEL 61 in one spot for seven long hours were just able to make our way out when all was over, our strength was so nearly gone. Without exaggeration I can say I per- spired so freely during the whole time that my clothing was wet through and through so thoroughly that the perspiration dripped from the edges of my coat. If any one ever was in a greater sweat than that, I have never heard of it. When I got safely out I hailed a cab and was driven rapidly back to my hotel. The day was very hot but when we entered a narrow street which was shaded by the tall houses, I felt a chill that caused me to fear that I had contracted some fever or serious illness. Arriv- ing at the hotel, I immediately went to my rooms and made an entire change of clothing. That which I took off was hung on the balcony in the blazing sun where it remained for many hours before it was fully dried, which goes to show that my process of perspiration was a complete success. THE CAMPO SANTO OF GENOA Most of the large cities in Middle and Northern Italy take great pride in their Campo Santos or cemeteries as we call them. When in Milan I took a carriage and rode out to their cemetery which is one of the most beautiful cities of the dead in existence. Some of the mausoleums which are of the finest marble are as large as ordinary chapels. Their architecture is most elaborate and must have cost fabulous sums of money and many years of labor. I whiled away several meditative hours as I walked along the graveled walks, bordered on either side 62 INCIDENTS OF with snow white monuments of various and costly de- signs. It is my present purpose, however, to devote a few words to the Campo Santo of Genoa. As grand as are all others in Italy, this is by far the most famous. It is known throughout the civilized world. No tourist of taste and refinement ever thinks of visiting Genoa with- out seeing this wonderfully artistic resting place of the dead. The works of art^ with which it is adorned, far sur- pass, in my estimation, many of the ''old masters" that finical people go wild over. I have never seen this cemetery described in any works on Italy, and am sure many writers feel as I do, and are fully aware that any attempt to do it justice would end in total failure. This great mortuary plain of many acres is enclosed by a covered collonade some twenty- five feet high, and fifteen feet deep. Under its pro- tecting roof are the tombs of the wealthier families of Genoa. In the open space are buried the humble people. In the center of this quadrangle is a large chapel of most elaborate design. As we passed through its marble halls where many of the illustrious sons of the nation rest sepulchered in costly sarcophagi, we reflected on the enduring affection which prompted such grand and last- ing memorials for departed friends. MASTERPIECES OF ART Under the collonade are many tombs, ornamented with statuary which might be called photographs in marble, so lifelike and true to nature are they. I have seen sculpture in Rome, Venice, Florence, Naples and other EUROPEAN TRAVEL 63 cities, but never yet have beheld anything to surpass the wonderful work of the artist as shown here. The "old masters" never accomplished anything more perfect or more true to Nature. The choice of commemorative sub- jects is most appropriate. I was so entranced with the grandeur of those monuments that I resolved to take ad- vantage of the occasion and secure a few photographs. There were so many beautiful scenes it was difficult to make a choice. During my first attempts to take a picture I came near meeting with a serious accident. In ordei to get the proper view of a tomb on which was represented an angel in flight, I was obliged to climb a high balus- trade. In trying to reach the top I accidently dislodged some vases and other ornaments which went tumbling to the floor and came near striking me. If they had, I would have gone down also and I am sure the result would have been serious, as I had almost reached the top of an arch. The falling ornaments made quite a racket and I was afraid of a reprimand or something worse from the authorities, but as good luck would have it none of the guardians was around that vicinity just then. Looking about me to make sure I would not be arrested, I hurriedly gathered up the fragments of the broken vases and replaced them as quickly and as care- fully as circumstances would allow and then resumed my walk as if nothing had happened. In my next attempt to take a photograph I was more successful, which gave me courage to continue until I had secured several fine views which I value very highly, as they represent examples of the highest art displayed there. One beautiful memorial that especially arrested my 64 INCIDENTS OF attention represented an angel standing in the attitude of a guardian on the top of the tomb. His hands are resting on the hilt of a sword, the point of which is near his feet. Dressed in a military tunic over which is a long cloak, he stands there as one ever ready to pro- tect the occupant of the tomb beneath him. Under- neath are the words: ''Posuerunt me Custodem." They have placed me on guard. Could any mute representation or inscription be more inspiring or afford greater consolation to the sorrowing relatives when they make their frequent visits and cast flowers of affection around the silent home of the de- parted ? Another tomb represents a casket in which lie the re- mains of a fond husband and father. It rests on an ornamented dais. Beside this stands a figure of the Saviour in an attitude of blessing; one hand stretching over the departed and the other above the sorrowing wife who kneels on the steps below. All this is of life size and carved from the purest Carrara marble. One tomb which arrested my attention, and the photo- graphing of which nearly caused my downfall, is perhaps the most exquisite yet in point of art. It represents an angel flying up from a cloud, supporting a happy soul just liberated from its corporeal temple. Its flight is apparently onward and upward. The two life size figures and the clouds are carved from one piece of snowwhite marble and is a triumph of the sculptor's art. Engrav- ings in this book, taken from photographs secured by me in the Campo Santo, will perhaps give a better idea of those works of art than any other description. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 65 SNEERING JAYS It is often pitiful to read the vaporings of some prej- udiced scribblers who try to belittle and find fault with everything they cannot comprehend. They feel it their duty to exhibit their boorishness and ignorance whenever and wherever they can. Their actions are often more disgusting than their faultfinding. Even within the sacred precincts of this hallowed ground I noticed a shoddy tourist pointing the finger of ridicule to a group of statuary on a tomb and with derisive remarks trying to amuse the crowd. When he thought he had made a hit, he put up a grin that would do credit to a Madagas- car monkey and the females of the crowd giggled effus- ively. Such exhibitions are often seen in churches, even when Divine service is being held. The tourist will often meet those itinerant specimens of ignorance and bad breeding in the beaten track of travel all over Europe. They are as pestiferous as the sparrows that soil our homes and annoy us with their chirpings. HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST On the way back from the Campo Santo we stopped at a church where the head of John the Baptist is said to be preserved. We entered, gave the attendant his fee and were shown down the aisle as far as the sanctuary. He told us the relic was in a casket at the rear of the altar, and said I could go in to see it, but that Mrs. Doyle must remain outside, as no women were allowed that privilege. I at first could not imagine the cause of this restriction, but a moment's reflection brought to 66 INCIDENTS OF mind that it was a woman who requested the beheading of the saint. Why this should bar Christian members of her sex for all time from paying due respect to his remains, I am at a loss to know. To refresh the minds of my readers, the story of the tragedy is here repeated : In the XlVth Chapter of the Gospel of St. Matthew we see it thus recorded: "At that time Herod the tetrach heard of the fame of Jesus. And he said unto his servants, This is John the Bap- tist; he is risen from the dead; and therefore mighty works do shew forth themselves in him. For Herod had laid hold on John, and bound him, and put him in prison for Herodias' sake, his brother Philip's wife. For John said unto him. It is not lawful for thee to have her. And when he would have put him to death, he feared the multitude, because they counted him as a prophet. But when Herod's birthday was kept, the daughter of Herodias (Salome) danced before them, and pleased Herod. Whereupon he promised with an oath to give her whatsoever she would ask. And she, being before instructed of her mother, said. Give me here John the Baptist's head in a charger. And the King was sorry, nevertheless for the oath's sake, and them that sat with him at meat, he commanded it to be given her. And he sent, and beheaded John in the prison. And his head was brought in a charger, and given to the damsel : and she brought it to her mother. It is very evident that the dances of Salome, as prac- ticed nowadays, had their origin in this tragic event. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 67 They are exhibitions however that do no credit to good taste, and represent nothing laudable. If they wish to celebrate the murder of the Baptist and justify Herod's infamous and cowardly act, their salacious performances are deplorably successful in pleasing the rabble. A SUDDEN TRANSFORMATION As we were about to enter the train that left Genoa for Rome in the evening, I was approached by a tall, swarthy looking beggar, who with outstretched hand and whining voice appealed for alms. He was on crutches. One leg, swathed in bandages made of old carpet, was drawn up under him in such a manner that it made him the most helpless looking cripple I had yet seen. His pitiful appeal was so effective that I gave him a few soldis and entered the car. The preliminaries for starting the train were so many and so tedious that it would have been very monotonous to sit there, were it not for the various incidents that made us forget the long delay. One little girl came up to us and tried to sell trinkets she carried in a basket. She was at a loss to know our nationality and asked us first in Italian, then in French and finally in German what we were. At last, thinking she had solved the question, she giggled out, "Oh no fly on you, you Yan- kee." We were so pleased with the enterprising perse- verance of the little itinerant merchant that we made a few small purchases when she gaily tripped away to make more sales. Soon after she left us we heard a great noise in the station as if a sudden riot had started up. Men were shouting, women screaming and children crying. I step- 68 INCIDENTS OF ped out to the door of the car to learn, if possible, what the whole uproar was about. It appears a mad dog had entered the station and was howling, running about and trying to bite everybody he met. Pandemonium pre- vailed and all were rushing to a place of safety, regard- less of the route they took. Some fled out the doors, knocking down all incomers, others dashed through the windows whether open or not. Many tried to enter the cars for safety, but were barred out by the trainmen. As the car doors were shut, I went back to my seat and viewed the frenzied people from the window, which I considered safer than the platform. As I was watching the frenzied crowd fleeing past, I recognized one prominent member thereof. And whom do you suppose it was ! Why no less a personage than my old friend the beggar who had, but a few moments before, received from me a few soldis on account of his crippled condition. Well! If you believe me, he was on the dead run also, holding both crutches high in the air, with the old carpet flying like a streamer from his "useless" leg. Keeping well to the front, he was sprint- ing like a greyhound and yelling like a loon. After that exhibition of practical duplicity on the part of Italian beggars, I was more discriminating with my eleemosynary disbursements. Ill PARIS THIS, our third voyage across the Atlantic, would have been as pleasant as could be desired had it not been for an unusual amount of sea-sickness among the passengers. By the way, I have never been a victim of mal de mer, for which I am very thankful, as those who are prone to it tell me it is one of the most distressing ailments that can befall a helpless mortal. Our vessel, the largest of the French line and one of the most gorgeous that floats, had an ugly habit of rolling, even in a calm sea, which became more pronounced as the coal was used up, making her top heavy. This un- steadiness provokingly roiled stomachs and soured the temper of nearly every one on board. Among our people we had thirteen doctors who sailed from New York on the thirteenth of July, and one of them had thirteen United States express checks with him. Now if the number thirteen has heretofore had such a reputation for bad luck I think it fully redeemed itself on this occasion, as all safely reached their destination. The bustle and hurry attendant upon our landing at Havre was enhanced by copious showers that freely came down on the devoted heads of all alike without reference to "present status or previous condition." However when once comfortably seated in the elegant cars of the Western Railway of France we felt we were 70 INCIDENTS OF free from the rolling waves of Old Ocean and the un- welcome attentions of Jupiter Pluvius. As we rode swiftly along through beautiful Normandy we could not help but admire the taste and thrift of the French farmer. Not a foot of ground is allowed to go to waste and every available spot is cultivated with the greatest care. No unsightly barnyards are to be seen. No neglected fences, dilapidated sheds or manure heaps mar the face of the landscape. On every hand are to be seen evidences of taste, industry and hygiene that might afford fruitful lessons for some of our American farmers. A five hours' ride brought us to Paris. Long before reaching our destination the great Eiffel Tower loomed up before our vision. Near its summit we discovered a balloon hovering around, as if to light on the top of the highest structure on earth. Along the road we saw French rural life in all its phases. Although it was Sun- day, men and women were working in the fields and even gay horse races were going on at one point we passed. The farmers do not plant as we do in America. Instead of one crop in a four acre lot they will seed down perhaps ten or fifteen varieties in sections. The artistic effect on the landscape is magnificent; the different colors re- sulting greatly enhance the beauty of the surrounding country and make it as charming as historic Eden. The little rural homes with their whitewashed walls and red tiled roofs dot the hills, plains and valleys in profusion and afford a brilliant contrast to the green fields that is really comforting to the beholder. An hour more brought us to the end of our journey and with it a clear sky and sunshine that lit up the most beautiful city on earth. We stopped at the Hotel Con- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 71 tinental. Here we were agreeably surprised to meet N. G. Peters and M. Nickels of Syracuse who came by way of Cherbourg. This hotel is a great rendezvous for American travelers and is crowded to its utmost capacity during the entire season. Facing the Tuileries Gardens it takes in a whole square and is surrounded by the Rue Rivoli, Rue Castiglioni, Rue Cambon and the Rue St. Honore. It is one of the best and largest in Paris, a perfect palace in itself and is so complete in its appointments that a full description of it might seem almost fabulous. It contains 650 rooms, all sumptuously arranged and equipped for the comfort of guests. It is six stories high and each floor is furnished with all the modern improvements. The building is fire- proof, being constructed of iron and stone. The guests average 500 daily and there are accommodations for more than 800. As we were sitting at the table in the large dining room Mrs. Doyle called my attention to "Our Chauncey" Depew sitting at the next table. She had never seen him but suspected it was he from the many newspaper pictures of his unique profile. I confirmed her suppositions as I had met him in Syracuse. He hur- riedly finished his dinner and rushed to a cab that was waiting at the door without waiting to chat with people wanting to speak to him. He must have been in a great hurry to catch his boat. I met an Egyptian who is stopping at this hotel. He is an immense man about six feet six inches in height and speaks French fluently. He told me it was not a very rare sight to meet men in his country eight feet tall. Such men would make a good company for Major Auer's battery. The brother of the Khedive is here, and Counts 72 INCIDENTS OF and Countesses are as plentiful as mushrooms in the fer- tile pastures of old Ireland. UP IN A BALLOON In order to have a good, general view of Paris before we saw it in detail, Mrs. Doyle and I went out to the Esplanade in the Place du Concord and arranged for a ride in a big balloon that was about to set sail for the upper regions. After being carefully stowed away in the car, or basket, we were ready to assume chances with four or five others who took passage with us. All being ready, the ropes were cut and away we went flying to the clouds. As we ascended, the sensation was not tlfat of rising but of the earth receding from us. No sense of motion could be perceived and everything was ominously still, except the conversation of passen- gers who constantly expatiated on the novelty of the situation. We were soon looking down on Paris which seemed like a mammoth map unrolled for our inspection. We floated far above the Eiffel Tower, the church spires and the lofty, gold-plated dome of the Invalides, which brilliantly reflected the rays of the morning sun. In the streets below, the cars and carriages moving about, seemed like mere toys and persons walking along the boulevards appeared like tiny microbes. We noticed a race course in the suburbs on which the sports were hold- ing high carnival. The fast running horses, which looked like mere cockroaches, appeared to move so slowly around that speed did not seem to be the object of their ambition. After sailing around among the clouds for over an hour, with Paris many thousand feet below us, we de- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 73 cided to return to terra firma, as we saw a thunder cloud rapidly approaching us from the direction of Mount Val- erian. The aeronaut pulled the valve and we began to descend rapidly ; rather too much so, as the great velocity alarmed the timid portion of the party. We reached the earth none too soon, however, as a copious shower over- took and drenched us well as we stepped forth from the car. TOMB OF NAPOLEON The Hotel des Invalides is a home for old soldiers. It at one time contained as many as five thousand pen- sioners but at present only a few hundred are there. At- tached to this is the church of St. Louis, a beautiful struc- ture. Here lies entombed the body of Napoleon I. The sarcophagus, in which the remains of the illustrious gen- eral repose, is made of a single block of dark colored marble highly polished. It rests on an ornamental base in the center of a deep circular opening in the floor of the church. It is surrounded by flags, banners and other trophies captured by Napoleon in his various campaigns. The flags are tattered, torn and discolored, showing the results of war and the ravages of time. Old soldiers and pensioners fairly swarm around the place and annoy vis- itors with their repeated requests for money. Some of them are so persistent that they cannot be shaken off, ex- cept by acceding to their demands which are often ac- companied by impudence. THE PANTHEON The church of St. Genevieve, now known as the Pan- theon, a splendid specimen of architecture, with its great dome and monolithic columns, presents an imposing ap- 74 INCIDENTS OF pearance. It has been used for civil, military and re- ligious purposes in succession. I ascended to the top of its dome and obtained a magnificent view of the sur- roundings. By the way, this dome is so constructed that no wood or iron enters into its makeup. It is a com- plete shell of stone, the blocks being so closely joined that it appears as one homogeneous mass. In the crypt are to be seen the tombs of Soufflet, Rosseau, Voltaire and other world wide celebrities. As we were going through the basement our guide sang out in a loud tone to test its echoing properties which are very pronounced indeed, ten or twelve repetitions of his voice being heard as coming from different parts of the crypt. In the chapel, at the rear, is to be seen the tomb of St. Gene- vieve, the patroness of Paris. Mrs. Doyle and myself visited this shrine which is of magnificent proportions and is profusely ornamented with appropriate emblems and enriched with votive offerings of the faithful. Versailles, a suburb of Paris, contains the palaces of the former Kings and Emperors of France. The gardens with their enormous fountains and beautiful statuary cannot be adequately described. They must be seen in order to fully appreciate their splendor. In company with Mr. Nickels and Mr. Peters we made a tour of the gardens and palaces through which we were conducted by an experienced guide. A WONDERFUL YANKEE While walking through one of the large picture gal- leries, know as the Hall of Battles, we noticed a fellow strutting about among the crowd with a small American flag pinned to the lapel of his coat. It was of silk and EUROPEAN TRAVEL 75 about the size of a pocket handkerchief. He roughly pushed his way about and among the throngs of visit- ors, flaunting it in their faces and trying to make him- self conspicuous. He had a far off look and defiant man- ner that reminded me of my school days, when some big, uncouth bully among the boys would march about with a chip on his shoulder as a challenge for a fight. What this fellow's object was I could not imagine, unless he was trying to personify America challenging France. No one seemed to pay any attention to him except to storm him with contemptuous looks and to regale his as- sinine ears with derisive remarks. I wonder some one did not trip him up or tweak his rubicund proboscis. If a Frenchman were to be seen marching through the Capitol halls at Washington flaunting his country's flag in the faces of our citizens, I am inclined to think that some lusty son of Uncle Sam might so far lose his temper as to make the fellow dance a Virginia reel. This in- cident is only a specimen of the many indiscretions we noticed among American tourists of the shoddy variety. Some cannot behave themselves even in the churches when Divine worship is being held but feel that they must make themselves ridiculously conspicuous, otherwise peo- ple might not be aware of their self constituted import- ance. What a contrast between this impudent flag- flaunter and Mr. Nickels, our companion. The former an impertinent bully, who, no doubt, would flee at the sound of a firecracker in the enemy's camp ; the latter a veteran soldier of the German army and one of the victorious thousands who conquered the defenders of Paris. Our fellow townsman, crowned by faithful ser- vices for his country, walked through the throngs of the 16 INCIDENTS OF vanquished, treating all with respect and even showing a reverence for the magnificent relics of bygone power and glory. N. G. Peters was delighted beyond measure, es- pecially with the magnificent gardens and proved himself an able historian, frequently recounting remarkable in- cidents that took place in various parts of this celebrated locality. He with Mr. Nickels made good foregrounds for my photographs of the great fountains and monu- ments. NOTRE DAME Notre Dame, the metropolitan church of Paris, is no- where surpassed in architectural grandeur. Its interior decorations defy adequate description. Its grand nave and forest of marble columns, lit up by most elaborately stained windows, liken the whole vast interior to a ver- itable paradise. In the treasury of the church are kept the sacred vessels of past ages and relics of many a martyred saint and confessor. The blood-stained vest- ments of the archbishop of Paris, who was murdered by the commune in 1871, are also here. These sacred relics were shown us by the sacristan. THE MADELEIN The Madelein, where we attended High Mass last Sun- day, appears more like a Greek temple than a Catholic church. It is rather plain on the exterior but is some- what relieved by fluted columns which support the roof and surround the entire edifice. It is lighted only by large circular windows in the roof. The effect is grand, however, and I wonder more churches are not built like this. From the sky pours down a flood of mellow light that, EUROPEAN TRAVEL 17 to my mind, far surpasses the "dim religious light" we read about and which too frequently makes gloomy our churches in America. A beautiful custom not observed in our churches pre- vails here. During the Mass, and just before the conse- cration, a procession of altar boys marches from the vestry into the sanctuary bearing on their shoulders beautifully ornamented frames, somewhat resembling that on which the sedia gestatoria of the Pope is carried. On these rest baskets containing tiny loaves of bread. They are blest by the celebrant and then passed around among the congregation. Each member takes one and consumes it as a solemn memorial of the real communion that is about to take place. In this church the attendants or guards are dressed in the most magnificent military fashion; their uniforms surpassing in richness and elegance anything I have ever seen in America. Ladies pass down the aisles and take up the collections. The relics of St. Mary Magdalen, which could be plainly seen from our seat, were exposed to view during the services. They consisted of some bones of the limbs and a portion of her hair, all in a good state of preserva- tion. The priests of Paris always wear their cassocks in the streets and with their broad-brimmed hats are frequently met hurrying along in the pursuit of their sacred call- ing. The reverence that is shown them is particularly noticeable, many people taking off their hats as they pass by. Funerals are conducted here in a manner to call forth respect and veneration for the departed. Instead of a 78 INCIDENTS OF hearse, so called, the casket is placed in a large convey- ance resembling a chariot which is drawn by four black horses. It is ornamented in the most tasteful and appro- priate manner and is nearly hidden from view with a profusion of wreaths of natural flowers. Relatives and friends follow it in mourning chariots also drawn by somber colored steeds. These are followed by a proces- sion of immediate friends and neighbors on foot, the mourners bringing up the rear, riding in black funeral omnibuses. The hurrying vehicles of the street, trams, carriages, cabs, etc., halt until the solemn procession shall have passed. Every citizen in the vicinity stops and respectfully raises his hat. I notice the Sisters of Charity go about on their daily missions unattended by children or even one of their order. They are held in such reverence that it would be a penal offence to show one of them the least impolite- ness. FROM A DROP OF OIL TO A TRAGEDY One pleasant afternoon I was taking dinner, or table d'hote as they call it in French, at the Hotel des Em- pereurs in Paris when an interesting and unusual occur- rence took place. A brisk walk through the Boulevard des Capuchins had accentuated my appetite, and that I might better enjoy a good meal, I began to prepare some salad. I poured out on my plate what I supposed was vinegar, but which proved to be the clearest of olive oil. Discovering my mistake, I called the steward to remove it. With a grand flourish, the garcon seized the plate, but it slipped from his nimble fingers, its contents landing on the gentleman sitting at my left. His head was gener- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 79 ously anointed and his beautiful broadcloth suit was given a glittering gloss by the oleaginous fluid. The cyclonic waiter was profuse and earnest with his apologies. The victim of the "faux pas" would however accept no apology, and naturally became very angry and strongly protested, in vigorous language, against such inexcusable carelessness. He also demanded full payment for his ruined clothes. The excitement in the dining room, at this stage of the affair, became intense. Appetites were forgotten, many arose to their feet and loudly proclaimed their ideas in reference to the mishap, until the confusion became so uproarious that I began to fear for the con- sequences. Being the innocent cause of all the uproar I made a few timely remarks in my endeavor to quell the rising storm. Many supplementary explanations and promises were made by the crestfallen waiter, and all was once more peaceful on the banks of the classic Seine. Many were the enquiries among the guests as to the cause of the commotion. A young man who had sat just beyond the anointed victim came over to me and, during a brief conversation, asked me if I were not a medical man. I was surprised at the question and enquired why he took me for a member of the profession, as I had in no way betrayed my calling by any remarks I might have made. I finally admitted that I was an humble dis- ciple of Aesculapius. He thereupon told me he was a medical student from Edinburg and that his name was Donald Newkirk. He was in Paris on an extended visit and would like to cultivate my acquaintance as he wished to learn something of the profession in America. Just here visions of confidence men and bunco steerers loomed up before me. However, as I was alone in a strange 80 INCIDENTS OF land, I felt that a good companion, who knew something of the great city, might be desirable. Taking the risk and pleased with the proffered friendship I accepted an invitation to his room which was in the same hotel. While there he told me he spent the preceding summer in Paris and had an enjoyable time. On the present occas- ion he was very glad to make my acquaintance. He told me of a trip down the Mediterranean, last year, with his old friend Captain Horton on the steamship Frathie. He expected to go again in a few days. After telling me much of his experience during his former visit we went out to view the brillantly lighted boulevards of gay Paris. After a pleasant stroll through the festive throngs of the French metropolis we returned to our hotel. At the door we met Captain Horton of whom my new-found friend had spoken. I was, of course, introduced, after which we adjourned to the smoking room. I found the captain a very pleasant gen- tleman and well up in his duties as a mariner and in his knowledge of the Mediterranean countries. He re- minded Mr. Newkirk that they were to start on the mor- row for their trip down the Mediterranean, and also asked if I would accompany them. We were to be his guests and we could visit the principal cities along the coast. He and Mr. Newkirk strongly insisted on my going with them. I thanked the captain for his generous offer, telling him nothing would give me more pleasure than to visit the far-famed cities of the Mediterranean, and that I would gratefully accept, were it not that I had already bought my tickets for Rome, which city I must certainly visit, as it was the Mecca of my present pilgrimage. hd H K w n I— I H O o EUROPEAN TRAVEL 81 When Mr. Newkirk saw that I could not go with them he also declined to go, telling the captain that he had be- come so much interested in and attached to his new-found American friend, and so much interested in his descrip- tion of customs in the New World, that he preferred to remain in Paris during his visit. The captain was sorely disappointed by this unexpected announcement and hav- ing failed, after oft repeated coaxing and promises of great enjoyment, to induce his friend to accompany him, he left the room with an air of sadness and disappoint- ment. Mr. Newkirk and I spent two very pleasant weeks in Paris after the departure of the captain. We visited all the important points in the great city. By the way I found I had met a polished gentleman in my chance ac- quaintance and a man well posted not only in the history and topography of Paris, but also in the profession of medicine. I regretfully parted from him the morning I left for Rome. After traveling through the principal countries of Europe I sailed for America on the steamship City of Brussels. On my arrival home, after fond greetings from my family and neighbors, my first duty was to look over my mail, which, during my three months' absence, had accumulated to immense proportions. A worn and well tied newspaper attracted my attention, and when opening it a premonition seemed to warn me that it con- tained important if not startling information. The open page revealed to me an article that told of a great storm on the Mediterranean and that the good ship Fraithe, with all on board, had gone to the bottom; Mr. New- kirk had sent me the paper from Edinburg. 82 INCIDENTS OF I felt thankful that I had bought my tickets to Rome, and I am sure Donald Newkirk was more than pleased that I took oil instead of vinegar on my plate in the Hotel des Empereurs. "A pebble in the streamlet scant Hath turned the course of many a river A dewdrop on the baby plant Hath warped the giant oak forever." TIPPED THE WRONG MAN On the 6th day of August, 1889, we landed in Havre, after a pleasant voyage of eight days from New York, on the Steamship La Bretagne. Before saying any more of the voyage I must relate a circumstance that may be of some use to future travelers. Shortly after going on board we were assigned seats at the table and were soon called to dinner. When we were fairly seated a stew- ard approached and very politely asked us what part of the menu we desired. Before making our selection we both concluded it would be the proper thing to hand him his expected tip, so that we might properly be cared for on the voyage. We each handed him a five dollar gold piece and felt secure as to farther annoyance on that score. At the next meal we found, to our surprise, that a different steward had been appointed for our table. We could not quite understand this proceeding until we landed at Havre when the new steward approached us on the dock and asked for another tip. We realized that we had done our duty in the beginning of the trip and there- fore completely ignored his demands. The head stew- ard had no doubt witnessed our giving a tip on the first day out, and made up his mind he could work us for an- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 83 other, but he counted without his proper reckoning as we did not propose to be swindled into paying a second time. Moral: Never tip a steward in the beginning of a voyage if you wish good service. Delay that act of ben- evolence until the day before landing. My friend, Mr. Smith, was very much provoked at this gentle attempt at polite robbery and felt very sore over it for a long time. A peddler approached him on the dock and tried to sell him some Yankee notions, as we would call them in this country. After rattling off a string of voluble French in describing hi'S wares, Mr. Smith, who was never accused of speaking that language, said in response : "Polly want a cracker?" The peddler merely scowled and gently ambled away to try his luck on some other "Yanks." Among the many pleasant acquaintances we met on board La Bretagne was Haligalooly Hoola Gouhly Kahn, private secretary to His Royal Highness, the Shah of Persia. He could speak but very little English so I tried him in Latin and found him well up in that lan- guage, which he could speak fluently. That ancient tongue seemed to form a bond of friendship between us and we spent much of our time in conversation. He told me of the customs in his country and compared them with what he saw in other lands. We afterwards met the Shah in Paris where he was highly feted. Among the other notables we met there were Buffalo Bill and Nate Salisbury who were giving an exhibition. The Shah attended and was highly delighted with the antics of the natives of the "Wild West." THE FALL OF THE BASTILE When the centennial of the fall of the Bastile occurred 84 INCIDENTS OF we were in mid ocean, and La Bretagne, being a French vessel, was given up to celebrating the close of the revo- lution. All on board took part. The ship was decorated with the national colors. Cannon boomed, rockets flew and general good cheer among the passengers prevailed. A banquet was given in the evening to all on board. After we landed in Havre we were delayed some four hours before proceeding to Paris. We availed ourselves of the opportunity to inspect the ancient town. The har- bor is one of the best in the world, but the city itself looks very ancient and much neglected. If one were i seeking antiquities he could find plenty of them there. Some of the buildings that have stood for centuries are far from being plumb and seem ready to topple over. Notwithstanding its ruins it is a handsome and interesting | old town. ON THE EIFFEL TOWER Our feet had no sooner touched the pavements of Paris than we hied ourselves off to the Exposition Grounds. The great tower, of course, received our first attention. Its base covers an area of two acres and it is nearly a ^ thousand feet high — the loftiest work ever constructed 1 by man, not even excepting the tower of Babel, spoken of in the Bible. From the ground it looks like a huge monument of open crochet work, so artistically is the delicate looking steelwork interwoven. It is capable of holding ten thousand people on its different stages or landings. To ascend by the winding staircase would have given us an almost perpendicular walk of nearly two thousand feet. We therefore took the elevator and went flying to the top at a speed that made us imagine that if EUROPEAN TRAVEL 85 we continued long at that rate we would soon reach the silvery lining of the clouds. At the upper landing we looked down on magnificent Paris a thousand feet below, with its beautiful boulevards, avenues, historical shrines and palaces — a sight never to be forgotten, and surpassing the most extravagant imaginations of the "Arabian Nights." The display in the exhibition building is most elaborate. A mere catalogue of the different articles would fill a book larger than King James' Bible. I must mention a few however. The Gobelin tapestries surpass in bril- liant beauty the finest paintings I ever saw. They lack that glossiness of surface that is so often detrimental to an oil painting. They are woven by artists in the exhibi- tion buildings and, to give an idea of the labor expended upon them, it is considered a good day's work when one person completes six square inches of space. Some of the pieces cost as high as $10,000. A large diamond in the French jewelry exhibit attracted much attention. Its weight is 180 carats and is valued at $1,200,000. I thought some of bringing it home with me and perhaps would have done so were it not for the very heavy custom duties. A familiar sight that loomed up before us was an engine from the Straight Line Engine Company of Syra- cuse, N. Y. It was used in running Edison's electric display. An immense phonograph repeated music for us that was played by a band in New Jersey last Spring. The American display is very fine, the newspapers to the contrary notwithstanding. The habitations and modes of living of dififerent na- tions are represented in real life, the natives going 86 INCIDENTS OF through their daily vocations as if they were on their native heaths. The palace of the Trocadero is filled with antiquities — relics, models, etc. A subterranean aquarium in its grounds is one of the wonders of the world. It is an artificial cavern made to represent an immense grotto, about two acres in extent, with cragged columns, stalactites and all the accessories of Nature her- self. In large recesses in the sides, lighted from above, are to be seen numberless varieties of the inhabitants of the sea from all parts of the world. In the evening a grand illumination of the fountains took place. Tens of thousands were awaiting in breath- less expectation for the great event. At precisely 9 p. m. the waters burst forth in a blaze of golden glory, the vast throng thundering forth in deafening huzzas which reverberated through the great plazas and up the river Seine. Imagine a shower of molten gold thrown up into the air 150 feet and every drop as bright as a diamond and you will have a faint idea of the magnificent spec- tacle. To vary the display, the colors of the illumination were made to alternately represent every hue of the rain- bow. The Eiffel Tower was illuminated, from base to top, with thousands of incandescent globes and from its summit search lights lit up the grounds and various parts of the city. IN THE BOIS DE BOLOUGNE Last Sunday we visited the Bois de Bolougne, the great park of the city. It was here that Napoleon III. first met Eugenie and fell in love with her on sight. Paris has a great number of parks but that of Bolougne is the most extensive of all. It is more like a vast forest, kept in the EUROPEAN TRAVEL 87 very best condition and ornamented with well paved roads, fountains, cascades, artificial lakes, etc. It con- tains a large zoological collection and the animals are as vigorous as if living in their native climes. A pond con- tained a number of huge seals which were as playful as kittens and would dart through the water and frequently climb rocks and leap a distance of twenty feet or more. An ostrich, harnessed to a wagon, drew people around the grounds. We hired one and rode about until we saw a pair of saddled camels when each of us took one and mounted it for a short ride. The swaying and awkward motion of the "ship of the desert" was very distressing to my spinal column and I hastily descended to earth. No more camel for my livery. We ascended the Arc de Triomph, the greatest tri- umphal arch in the world. It is 160 feet high and being on an eminence and at the convergence of twelve great avenues, commands the finest view of Paris. The French people's proverbial kindness and polite- ness has been fully illustrated during our sojourn among them. They seem to think that there is something to live for besides the hoarding up of the mighty dollar. They are cheerful and certainly know how to enjoy themselves at proper times and in proper places. Here a man or woman will often go far out of the way to as- sist you in finding a street or place; quite a contrast to the Bowery boy in New York that replied to a gentle- man who said he wished to go to Broadway: "Then why the deuce don't you go?" The cleanliness of the streets is almost incredible to those who have not been there. The pavements of the principal boulevards and avenues are either of hard wood 88 INCIDENTS OF or asphalt, the former largely predominating. The pon- derous double-decked stages roll over them almost noise- lessly. Great drays with wheels almost ten feet in di- ameter, drawn by six or eight horses, seem to make no impression on these well laid pavements. Young and bare-headed women sell papers in the streets and yell out their wares quite vigorously. One great awkward fellow bleated out his latest editions with a voice so much like a yearling calf that I imagined I was very near a New York cattle train. He attracted much attention and sold many papers on the length and breadth of his startling bovine accent. King George of Greece is here and is receiving much attention. If we have time we will call upon him before leaving the city, because we understand he is very sensi- tive about being slighted. A BULL FIGHT IN PARIS. One bright morning while viewing the immense ex- panse of Parisian landscape from the top of the Eiffel Tower we noticed a large enclosure just outside the Ex- position grounds that we had not before heard of, al- though we had been in the city several days. After some enquiries we learned it was the Plaza de Toros where Spanish bull fights were held. Being of an en- quiring turn of mind and having heard so much of those unique exhibitions, we straightway set out for said Plaza and arrived just in time to secure good seats at the ring- side. The great enclosure was crowded with a miscellaneous and expectant throng, representing many nations, Spain being of course most in evidence. While waiting for the > < I— I EUROPEAN TRAVEL 89 main event of the day we were entertained with dances given by Spanish Dons and Senoritas in true national style. The vim and natural grace with which they went through the various figures were truly inspiring. Dressed in their national costumes they represented a brilliant scene of Andalusian magnificence that surpassed anything of the kind ever witnessed before by us. The immense circular building of wood and stone formed a large amphitheatre capable of holding many thousands. The seats were arranged in tiers rising to the top where the private boxes were located. The arena itself is about a hundred feet in diameter and is enclosed by a strong wooden barrier about six feet high with a footrail two feet from the ground. This is to as- sist the torreros, when too closely pursued by the bull, to escape by a leap over the barrier to the passageway that extends around the ring between the inner enclosure and another somewhat higher that protects the audience. During one of the mad rushes of an enraged bull he leaped over the inner barrier and was making for the next one just in front of us. We also made a hurried scramble for the upper tiers, as we were sure that our time had come, and that a stunt not on the program, with us as the principals, was to be enacted. Having reached a place of safety near the top we cau- tiously looked back to see where the bull had gone. The torreros had driven him around the ring until a door was reached where he was allowed an exit. A bull fight is one of the most cruel and revolting spectacles I ever beheld. A harmless young animal fresh from the verdant pastures of his native heath is driven into an arena and surrounded by armed men ready 90 INCIDENTS OF to torture him. He has no possible chance to success- fully defend himself against overwhelming odds that face him. Prodded with spears, enraged by tantalizing tor- reros with no chance to prove his prowess, he goes down to an ignominious death. The horses that bear the captains are also helpless, as they are blindfolded, which cuts off all chance of escape from the maddened bulls as they are ruthlessly ripped to pieces by the horns of the frenzied victims of the un- holy "sport." All in all it was the most brutal exhibition I ever be- held and when it was over I rebuked myself for having been a spectator. I would go into the details of this revolting spectacle were it not that I fear my readers would become as disgusted at the description as I was at the reality. No such acts of cruelty were ever before witnessed by me and I hope never again to even hear of them. * IV STORY-TELLING ON BOARD SHIP AMONG the passengers I met on board the steam- ship Hohenzollern was an old gentleman whose general appearance and conversation indicated a person of culture and prominence. He was tall, well built and vigorous for a man of his age, being along in the sixties. His silvery white hair and imposing mustache, which oramented his classic features, gave him a military air which well suited his general makeup. Accompany- ing him was his wife, a handsome lady, at least ten years his junior. As they walked to and fro on the promenade deck many were the compliments paid them by the pas- sengers, some of whom almost seemed to envy their happiness. The lady was of that dignified type of matronly beauty that indicated a French ancestry and aristocratic lineage. I resolved, if opportunity presented itself, that I would make the acquaintance of that dignified stranger, as I was sure, if I could meet him socially, I would find a fellow passenger who would enhance the pleasure of the voyage. The next day, as I was enjoying a postprandial cigar in the smoking room, who should enter, with many others, but the very same gentleman who had attracted my attention the day before. He sat down in a corner of the room and pulling out a large, black Havana leisurely lit it and, while smoking, read a magazine which seemed to interest him very much. 92 INCIDENTS OF My long-wished-for opportunity had now come and, as soon as he finished his reading, I walked over to him and, to break the ice, made some enquiries as to the probable time of our arrival at' Naples. He graciously gave me his estimate and at the same time asked my opinion on the same subject. Inviting me to be seated we soon found ourselves engaged in an interesting con- versation on various subjects. After we had, for some time, talked on several topics of interest, I noticed that he was of an enquiring turn of mind. He asked many questions as to my home, my destination and my future plans. I told him where I lived and where I was going. As to the future I could not definitely answer, only that I intended, on my return home, to absolutely retire from the practice of my pro- fession and take life easy for the remainder of my days. He asked what my profession was. I told him I had been practicing medicine and surgery for a great many years and I thought it was about time that I should take a well earned rest. He fully agreed with me and volun- teered the information that he was also a physician. This announcement seemed to arouse a spirit of friend- ship and confidence, so characteristic of the better class of the medical profession. Just at this juncture the famous advice of Polonius to his son Laertes came to mind and, as I pondered it over, wondered if it were not prudence on my part to go slowly on a chance acquaintance with a perfect stranger, and mentally re- called these famous lines: "Look thou character. Give thj'- thoughts no tongue Nor any unproportioned thought his act." With all this Shakespearean advice before me I vent- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 93 ured, step by step, to give him a brief outline of my career from boyhood days to the ending of my profess- ional career. He listened to me with the most earnest attention, frequently asking for details, when he thought the narrative too general. At times I noticed he was profoundly impressed and even sad. I was convinced he was a man of deep thought and sincerity. Often he would give me an enquiring look with his piercing dark eyes which made me feel that there might possibly be something in common between us in the dispensations of Providence. After I had briefly narrated the principal incidents of my professional career he was so interested that he vol- unteered to relate some experiences and difficulties encountered during his eventful life. He remarked before commencing his recital that as we had several days before us on the sea, we could not better or more interestingly pass the time than in comparing notes. I fully agreed with him and will now let him tell his story in his own words : THE STORY OF THE STRANGER "I was born in a distant land", said he, "and when very young, went to the United States with my parents. They were in moderate circumstances, my father having been deprived of an ample fortune by avaricious and scheming relatives. Nevertheless, with his young wife, who was said to be the handsomest woman in her village home, and me his only child, he set sail for the land of the West, the haven of the persecuted and the home of the exile, where he hoped to recommence the struggle of life. He was a man of fine physique and endowed with a splendid education. These qualifications were now his 94 INCIDENTS OF main reliance and with a right good will did he make use of them. He was not long in the land of his adoption before he found himself engaged in a pleasant and profit- able occupation. By industry and perseverance he was soon enabled to engage in business on his own account. In this he prospered sufficiently to support his family. "After a few years seven children, of whom I was the eldest, claimed his paternal protection, and right here and now I affectionately claim that no better father and mother were ever blessed with the happy responsibilities of rearing a family. "As I was the firstborn, my good mother, in the fullness of her religious enthusiasm, selected me as her gift to the Church she loved so well. I was therefore educated with a view of entering the ministry. As time went on, my preparatory studies had so far progressed that I was sent to college. Here I remained for nearly four years, going through the curriculum and keeping well to the front in my studies. Overstudy however soon began to tell on my health and I became so emaciated and anae- mic that my friends began to fear consumption had claimed me. On the advice of my physician I was about to return home for a few weeks' rest and recuperation when a most distressing accident occurred to me by which I nearly lost the sight of both my eyes. I was standing on the Campus one thawing day in winter, talking to one of the professors who was watching the boys snow- balling. Without warning I was struck full in the face by a solid, wet snowball, forcibly thrown by one of the careless students. The impact of the violent blow threw me to the ground and completely blinded me. I became helpless and suffered agonies indescribable. Nothing EUROPEAN TRAVEL 95 could be done at the college to relieve my agony and I was immediately hurried off to a hospital in a nearby city. There it was thought that my sight was perman- ently destroyed. With skillful care on the part of the doctors, and good nursing by the devoted Sisters of Charity, I partially recovered, after many long and tedi- ous months of suffering. "After my return home from the hospital I was for a long time a helpless invalid and my poor dear mother wept many bitter tears for my misfortunes. Her hopes of my ever reaching the zenith of her highest ambitions were practically blotted out. Between my sufferings and sorrow for her, my young life was anything but pleasant for the two years I was forced to spend in com- parative idleness. My eyes were so weak that I could not improve myself much by reading or any kind of study so I was obliged to succumb to the inevitable. "Finally tiring of a life of idleness and dependence on my indulgent parents, I resolved to make an effort in the direction of self support. Consulting my physician, I was told that life in the ministry, on account of its de- mands as a preacher, writing sermons, etc., would never do for me in my weakened condition and that my eyes would not endure the strain. He was a friend of the family and, after deliberation with us, gave it as his opin- ion, if I wished to follow a profession, that of medicine would be the proper one for me, as it was less of a strain on the nerves and gave more insight to the ailments of the body, which I at that particular time was so much in need of. Moreover he said that as I was so well up in the classics it would be a pity to enter some calling which did not need such accomplishments. 96 INCIDENTS OF "I felt that now I was really obliged to commence the great struggle of life. "With the disappointment of my parents weighing heavily on my mind, and a frail constitution, I fully real- ized that difficulties almost insurmountable, were before me. Being anxious to obtain a professional education, I entered the office of our old friend, the family physi- cian. He was very kind and on account of my im- paired health and the weakness of my eyes, often warned me not to devote too much time to close study, especially by artificial light, which by the way was very distressing to me. To supplement the knowledge that I might have obtained by more steady application to text books, he frequently took me with him on his daily rounds when making professional visits. Having a national reputa- tion, he was often called far from home, and if the case were instructive and interesting would take me with him. It is needless to say that I did not go as a consultant for I had as yet to learn the rudiments of the profession. "In this way I obtained a good deal of practical knowl- edge, even before I had fairly begun my studies. In his office he frequently gave practical instructions and dem- onstrated to me the most approved modes of treatment, when circumstances would permit. A SEVERE INITIATION "I remember one day when a man came in on crutches. He had suffered the loss of a leg. The doctor made an examination of the stump and found that one of the ligatures still remained, and made an effort to remove it, which caused the man so much pain that he writhed and screamed in agony. I was intently watching the pro- BRIDGE OF SIGHS IN VENICE "I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, a Palace and a Prison on either hand" EUROPEAN TRAVEL 97 ceedings until I became nauseated and the room seemed to go round and take on a fuliginous appearance. The next thing I knew I found myself lying on the broad of my back on the doctor's sofa, feeling the back of my head which was very sore with a big excresence on it about the size of a lump of chalk. "It appears that I fainted away at the unusual sight and had fallen, violently striking the floor with the back of my head. The doctor tenderly raised me up and placed me on the sofa where I found myself on return to consciousness. "My first expressions, when able to realize my sur- roundings, and the cause of my trouble were these : 'A fine candidate am I for the profession of surgery. This surely is a rough initiation. I think I had better look up some other business more suited to my frail condition and sympathetic nervous system.' "It is unnecessary to state that the doctor was aston- ished at the early and sudden collapse of his protege. With words of cheer and encouragement he told me to overlook and forget such a trivial mishap. I did not think it so trivial however as I nursed my sore head and rubbed down my aching joints. He told me a similar occurrence happened to him on his first entrance into the operating room of a London hospital. He swooned away at the sight of a patient bleeding freely from an ugly wound. As he was being carried out of the amphi- theatre, he faintly heard uproarious cheers from the students, many of whom had gone through the same experience. "With full assurance on his part that I would soon Overcome my natural timidity, I consented to remain 98 INCIDENTS OF with him and continue my studies. Time proved he was right, for many moons had not crossed the zenith before I was as brave and self confident as any old sawbones in the land, and could not only witness operations but soon became quite an adept as assistant in the most san- guinary cases. A LIVELY INCIDENT "While I was a student in his office, an incident occur- red that may be well worth relating. Away back in the time of the civil war — I think it was in the summer of 1863 when recruiting for the army was going on very briskly — I was upstairs in our office when I heard a squad of soldiers marching along the street. When opposite us they suddenly stopped, which I knew without seeing them, as I heard the guns come down on the side- walk with a quick, ominous rattle. I instantly surmised something was up. Throwing aside my book, I rushed down the stairs and saw the soldiers standing at rest. My curiosity led me to await developments. I was fully rewarded for remaining, as the sequel will show. "A raw recruit, known as Bob Gleason the town bully, was sitting on the foot of the stairs when the recruiting squad came along picking up laggards. He was famous in those days as the terror of the town. About six feet in height, strong, muscular and quarrelsome, he was full of fight, and was always looking for trouble, especially with men he thought he could handle. "He was commanded to fall in. Instead of doing so he met the order with very abusive language and claimed that no one could make him fall in unless he felt like it. With a swaggering gait he walked over to the captain, a little fellow about five feet six, and put his fist under EUROPEAN TRAVEL 99 his nose. The captain, who was a Regular Army man, deliberately unbuckled the belt that held his sword and handed it to a man just behind him. The raw recruit squared off in true bucolic style and put up his "dukes." Quicker than the lightning kick of a vicious mule he got a stinging blow from the little captain's right, which landed him on his back in the gutter about fifteen feet away. True to his fighting instinct he picked himself up and returned to the fray, but after a few awkward lunges, on his part, he received a swinging blow on the jaw which 'put him to sleep' away out in the middle of the road. When he came to, his pals placed him on an old weather beaten shutter and lugged him off to the hospital where he remained about six weeks. After he had fully recovered from the results of the little captain's discipline he was ordered to the front. He was always a spectacular braggadocio, and when he went South he carried a rope with him to 'hang Jeff Davis.' In his very first engage- ment at Malvern Hill he was shot down, the bullet entering his forehead. Thus ends the tale of the town bully." ADJOURNED FOR DINNER "Well, my dear doctor, I am greatly interested in your well told story," said I, "and as the ship's bells are now calling us to dinner we will take an adjournment for the morrow, when I hope to have the pleasure of hearing a continuation of your narrative which interests me very much." When we went to the dining saloon I asked the steward to change my seat if possible, so that I could be nearer my new-found friend. After much diplomacy, an accommodating passenger who sat in the chair I was looking for, kindly offered to exchange with me. All 100 INCIDENTS OF being now comfortably arranged, I was near enough to the doctor so that we could exchange ideas on various topics, but reserved all conversation relating to his re- markable career, for the smoking room. A LIVELY DINING ROOM When the dinner was about half over, a sudden and violent storm arose. The great ship began to roll and pitch, so much so that the stewards hastened to put on the tables the little fenders to prevent the dishes from sliding off. As the storm increased in fury the soup, coffee, vegetables, etc., began to leap into the laps and over the broadcloth of the diners until nearly all were decorated with viands that Were really intended for nourishment. All was now in the utmost confusion and when the dishes went crashing to the floor most of the passengers became very sick and started on a run for their staterooms. My friend and his wife joined the flying crowd and the dining room soon became practically forsaken but for two ladies who sat opposite, and myself. For a short time they were having great sport laughing at the other passengers who were obliged to flee, until the ship gave one extra, violent lunge when they too were obliged to scamper down the aisle. I was never yet sea- sick although I have made ten voyages, but on this occasion I felt an indescribable stinging pain in the back of my head that nearly drove me mad. As soon as able, I too retired to my stateroom where I remained until the storm was over. A HOWLING SWELL The next morning after the storm, as I was strolling along the promenade deck, I met Dr. Woodbyrne, a o <<: ^ n w rr H W U r? 1— 1 CU :^ m o H rt- R fl O V) < en R O Cfi 1— 1 13- ^ ffi rn H fy rt- t^ > 3 w •-1 ft en iO o- c; r/i > -o pi n w o < >-! w :3 1— 1 Ol n (T w EUROPEAN TRAVEL 101 stranger no longer, who joined me. As we leisurely walked to and fro he told me more of his history and it became so interesting that I suggested we take seats. Finding a suitable place in a somewhat secluded corner, I discovered two chairs near together, one being occupied by a man whom I addressed, kindly asking if he would accommodate us by taking a chair a little farther on, as those seats were so conveniently placed that my friend and I could continue a quiet conversation that we had commenced on the promenade. He looked up at me with a scowl that I will never forget, and finally growled out that he would not do any such thing for our convenience or that of anyone else. I could not really blame him for refusing us, as of course he had a perfect right to his seat, but his manner and appearance attracted our attention so much that I shall never forget the circumstance, trivial though it be. He was a short stocky man with a very red, pugnacious looking face that would do credit to a retired prizefighter. As he stolidly sat there pulling away on a short briar pipe, I could not help taking an inventory of his "loud togs." He was dressed in a stunning suit of large checks, resembling horse blanket material, a mixture of pale green, brown and lemon color. His large, soggy looking head was surmounted by a slouchy cap of the same material, and all in all he was what the Canadians would call a howling swell. I took him for a follower of the race tracks or perhaps a bunco steerer and was pretty well satisfied with my diagnosis. AN ICEBERG The doctor and I finally found more desirable seats 102 INCIDENTS OF on another part of the deck, a comfortable distance from the "accommodating gentleman." We had just resumed our conversation when a mild commotion took place, and we noticed passengers running to the starboard. Of course we followed suit and found we were approaching an iceberg. Off to the right, about five miles distant, could be seen what appeared to be a great floating city with steeples, domes and minarets. As the melting sur- faces glistened in the sun, all the hues of the rainbow could be seen dancing from peak to peak and from sea to summit. It was a glorious sight, in fact it looked like a vast fairyland with its myriads of fantastic forms. When it is remembered that only about one seventh of floating ice shows above the surface, it can be readily imagined how great the entire mass below must have been. The icebergs that we generally meet are formed from immense glaciers that slide into the sea from the coast of Greenland and Labrador. Their edges are broken off by the action of the waves, float away in great masses into the sea and are carried off by the action of the tides into the North Atlantic. If there be any one thing I greatly dread on an ocean voyage it is the possibility of coming in contact with an iceberg. So many vessels have been lost by striking those mammoth wanderers of the deep that one may well feel timid when he thinks of the danger, especially at night when a fog is on. I remember one time when our ship came to a full and sudden stop at the dead of night, and began to vigorously blow her fog horn. Many left their berths and went on deck to learn the cause of the unusual incident. They had to return however without getting any satisfaction from the reticent officers. I felt EUROPEAN TRAVEL 103 pretty sure we were in the vicinity of an iceberg or per- haps another vessel. I learned afterwards that we came very near running into an old derelict that the dense fog had nearly hidden from view. That was a very close call for the twelve hundred souls on board. It was really a narrow escape from the fate of many a ship that has left port never to be heard from again. A THEOLOGICAL SURPRISE I did not meet Dr. Woodbyrne again until the next day which was Sunday. He asked me to go to the smok- ing room with him and have a cigar. After enjoying our Havanas for awhile, he resumed his narrative, when I gently interrupted, asking if he remembered the man we saw yesterday on deck, dressed in the loud horse- blanket checks, whom I thought was a prizefighter or something like it. He said, "Oh ! yes, very decidedly. How could I forget that picturesque and gruff individual?" "Well !" said I, "You will hardly believe what I am going to tell you. To while away a pleasant and perhaps a profitable hour I went below to attend the regular Sun- day services of the ship. Whom do you suppose I saw and heard unctuously preaching the gospel of the day, but the very fellow we met yesterday holding down the chair that he would not accommodate us with, in other words, the howling swell whom I thought was a pugilist." "You don't really mean it," said he. "I certainly do, but wouldn't have believed it had I not actually seen him." "Well, how did he look and act?" "He had a solemn visage, evidently made up for the 104 INCIDENTS OF occasion and was dressed in the regulation clerical garb. In drawling monotones and with awkward gestures he perfunctorily went through the services and even at- tempted to dilate on brotherly love and the virtues of charity. I could hardly suppress a loud smile when I remembered his appearance and manners on the day be- fore. 'Well/ I said to to myself, 'If this isn't a ludicrous display of real hypocrisy I fail to understand the meaning of the word.' " It seems he was the regular, hired chaplain of the vessel and was then and there simply earning his salary. My friend was astounded and broke in by saying, "A fellow can't most always sometimes tell how far a cat can jump by the color of it." "Howly smoke! as Dennis said, when he saw the church burning!" After Dr. Woodbyrne had listened to the above rather interesting incidents he resumed his narrative. "I believe the last conversation we had in reference to my career," said he, "was about the time I fainted away in the doctor's office and became so discouraged that I was inclined to give up my studies, when the doctor per- suaded me to continue. "I remained in his office about a year, when I thought it was about time to enter a medical college. I will never forget the anxieties that loomed up before me at that particular juncture. My parents were poor and I did not know where the money was to come from to pay my expenses. My dear mother, who had by this time become reconciled to the fact that something besides the ministry was to be my lot, was willing that I should embrace any honorable calling that would save me from the necessity of manual labor, as she was fully aware ANCIENT CHANDELIER IN THE CATHEDRAL AT PISA Its swinging when the doors were opened gave Galileo his first idea of the clock pendulum EUROPEAN TRAVEL 105 that my frail constitution would not endure the require- ments demanded by such a life. ''Her resourceful mind planned that I should borrow the funds necessary for a college education. Having a wealthy old bachelor cousin, she persuaded him to ad- vance the necessary funds. He, for remuneration, was to become a member of the household and 'board it out.' "All being now financially provided for, I entered a medical college in New York where I diligently pursued my studies until I was graduated with honors at the head of my class. This college was then (before the Civil War) the largest and most celebrated in the land. It was attended by students from all parts of the world. Many from the Southern States were among them. I there made many pleasant acquaintances which were appreciated. A ROUGH RECEPTION "Were I to relate many of the incidents occurring in student life I fear I might tire you." "Oh ! no, doctor, I am sure they would be very inter- esting." "Well !" said he, "as we have plenty of time at our disposal, I will relate a few happenings." "One fine afternoon two seedy looking tramps entered the college and were intently scanning the bulletin board in the lobby. Some students, three stories above, were looking over the stair railing. Far below and directly under them they spied, through the wellhole of the stair- way, the unsuspecting hoboes. To make things inter- esting for the strangers, what do you suppose they did? Why they went back to the dissecting room and scooped up two pails of filthy water from the cleansing troughs, 106 INCIDENTS OF and threw their contents on the unfortunates below. The impact was so great that they were hurled to the floor, but as soon as they got to their feet they made a frantic rush for the enemy. As there were two long flights to mount, the students had plenty of time to pre- pare for the attack. Rushing back again to the dissect- ing room they got two old wet carpets that were used for keeping bodies moist. Holding them spread out, they stood at the head of the stairs and when the tramps arrived they were suddenly enveloped in the clinging folds of the clammy fabrics which rendered them *Hors de combat.' Before they could disentangle themselves the prankish students had made good their escape through the rear door of the college. A DISASTROUS TUMBLE "Another incident at the college was of a serio-comic nature. It was customary to have the dissecting rooms cleaned out every evening after the students had finished their work. Female convicts from Blackwell's Island were selected to perform these unpleasant duties. They generally were characters of the toughest and most hard- ened class and were, for the most part, well on in years. "I was delayed at my work one evening somewhat longer than usual, and while looking up the Tter a tertio ad quartum ventriculum' in a brain, I heard a great racket and much screaming, which seemed to come from the region of the elevator. Dropping my scalpel, I rushed over to the vicinity of the trouble and sure enough the 'cage' had fallen with several women in it. I hurried down three flights of stairs to help the victims. When I arrived at the bottom I found four women prostrate on EUROPEAN TRAVEL 107 the cellar floor and unconscious. With others I suc- ceeded in untangling legs and arms which had been tossed about in the direst confusion. We sent them to the hospital across the way where they were found to be seriously injured. "In the dissecting room were several jars of anatomical specimens preserved in alcohol. It seems those old rounders made it a practice of drinking the spirits and often drained the jars empty when no one was looking. After they had their fill they went to the elevator to sleep it off. Their combined weight caused the retaining latch to give way with the above results. A CRUEL EXHIBITION One pleasant day in the month of October the students, as was customary, were taken up to the great hospitals on Blackwell's Island to attend clinics and witness sur- gical operations. We generally went up twice a week. The three-mile ride on the river was always enjoyed by us. One of the young men who had been at a banquet the night before had not sufficiently recovered from the hilarity of the occasion and was quite eloquent in describ- ing the beauties of the scenery we were passing. In a special burst of enthusiasm he declared that the shores were so beautiful that they reminded him of those on the old farm at home — in fact the scenery was absolutely 'tooralooral' (truly rural). So he went on until we reached the hospital dock, affording much amusement for his fellow students. "As a sad contrast to that jollity I witnessed a scene when we arrived that I shall never forget. Just before the boat started for the Island the 'Black Maria,' as the 108 INCIDENTS OF prison van was called, drove up and unloaded a miscel- laneous lot of human derelicts who were driven like cattle down into the steerage or hold. When the con- victs were being taken ashore I could not help noticing the brutal manners of the officers in charge. I remember one poor woman who did not come up from the steerage quickly enough to suit the driver. As she hobbled up nearly to the top of the stairs he reached down and grabbed her by the hair of the head and thus bodily dragged her up on the deck. As she lay there trembling like an aspen leaf, and almost helpless, the brute began to kick her about the head and body until the students interfered. It was only by the merest chance that he es- caped being thrown overboard. The poor unfortunate creature, even in her frightful condition, showed evident traces of former beauty and refinement. She could not have been more than forty years of age. Her heavy brown hair hung about her face and over her shoulders in a disheveled and tangled mass. The death-like agony shown on her regular features and emaciated face was a sight never to be forgotten. I turned away from this exhibition of outrageous brutality, sick at heart and thought of man's inhumanity to his fellow beings. I was heartily sorry that the boys did not drown the inhuman wretch who thus maltreated a weak and inoffensive un- fortunate. ''one of the finest'^ "The police in New York in those days were remark- ably uncouth and even brutal with strangers. They were not accommodating in the least and would give no information if they did not feel in the humor. They M O o >3 I— I w n o ffl o CI W W > ^ EL W M B. ^ 5 • H P. K td O w oS > EUROPEAN TRAVEL 109 strutted the streets with the air of a Crusoe who is said to have exclaimed, 'I am monarch of all I survey.' "I remember one night when I was returning to my hotel at a late hour I passed a new building on Duane street which was boarded up in front. As I passed it I heard agonizing groans as if coming from some- one in great distress, and thought some person might be dying there. I told the first policeman I met of what I heard and suspected. Did he go to the immediate relief of the sufferer? No, on the contrary he suddenly turned on me and shaking his club, told me, with a string of horrid oaths, to mind my own business and keep my information to myself; if I did not he would run me in. I thought that very strange for a 'guardian of the peace' and could not divine the reason, if he had any, for such boorish conduct. Perhaps he thought I had noticed his neglect of official duty and that he would hear from it if he did not try to frighten me into silence. IN THE ROLE OF AN ARTIST "I was attending a lecture one day in the amphitheatre of Bellevue Hospital when a patient, greatly deformed, was brought in for an operation. In the course of the lecture the surgeon said it was a very peculiar case and one which he hoped to completely relieve. He was there- fore sorry that a photograph of that unusual deformity of the limbs had not been secured before he was brought to the hospital. "At that time there were no such photographic con- veniences as we have to-day. The operating surgeon therefore asked if there were any one in the audience who had a practical knowledge of drawing. For a long 110 INCIDENTS OF time he received no response. Seeing that no one went forward I, with some trepidation, I'll confess, volunteered to make an attempt at sketching the patient, having had some experience in tliat line. As I went down the steps of the amphitheatre to the operating table, a rousing cheer went up from the five hundred students that gave me great courage. "After I had finished the sketch I showed it to the surgeon who was so much pleased that he handed it around to the students who also approved of it with many expressions of satisfaction. As I returned to my seat in the upper row of the amphitheatre I was again the object of cheering demonstrations. "A few days after I met this same surgeon on the boat enroute for the Island Hospital. He congratulated me on having secured for him an excellent drawing which he very much appreciated. During a pleasant and very interesting conversation I had with him, he invited me to visit his office on the following day. As I left him I felt somewhat curious to know why he wished me to call on him. In fact I could not imagine what his object could be in asking me, an almost total stranger, to his home. "The next day I was very cordially received by the surgeon who extended to me the glad hand of a hearty welcome. After a little preliminary conversation he told me he was so well pleased with what I had done for him in the amphitheatre that he would like to have me enter his office as a student. It is needless to say that I was more than delighted to hear this unexpected invitation. "I could now clearly see before me not only possibil- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 111 ities but even the probabilities of ultimate success in my professional ambitions. "I remained in his office three years, attending medical lectures at the University and assisting him in operations and office work. He appreciated my work so much that he made me a generous weekly allowance of money which came in very handy just at that time." "Well, doctor," said I, "you surely struck luck. I can readily see that your knowledge of free hand drawing came in very good for you at that time and seemed to turn the scale in your favor." "It certainly did," said he, "and what's more, I was afterwards chosen to illustrate a large work on surgery which he published while I was with him. This work is now a well-known text-book in the medical colleges." "This surgeon, who was none other than the celebrated Dr. Lewis A. Sayre, was at that time Health officer of the City of New York. His duties were many and laborious and I was often called on to assist him in his municipal work. This afforded me many facilities for obtaining practical knowledge which served me well in after life. THE DRAFT RIOTS "During the great draft riots in 1863 he was the busiest and most active man I ever saw in the perform- ance of his duties. The first one shot down at that time was a policeman. He was attended by Dr. Sayre who found him dangerously wounded. An operation, at which I assisted, was performed. The man made a speedy recovery and often boasted of how he was saved by the health officer." 112 INCIDENTS OF "Doctor, you must have had lively times during those memorable riots." "We certainly did, and I can assure you we had many close calls for our lives. I remember one day when we heard that the 7th Regiment was on a double quick up Third Avenue. I was in my boarding house at the time, and rushed down stairs to see them. Another student came running down behind me, violently pushed me aside and got ahead. As we both reached the sidewalk the regiment, which was fast approaching, fired a volley up the street, killing a great number, among whom was the young man who was so eager to pass me on the stairs. He fell right in front of me with a bullet in his brain, I ran back to my room as rapidly as possible, thanking God that the young man had succeeded in getting ahead of me." "Well, doctor, that was a very Providential escape for you." "Yes, I can assure you it was, and I was so terror stricken that I immediately packed up my belongings and left New York for my own quiet home in the West as soon as the disturbed conditions would permit." "So you did not see any more of the riots ?" "Oh ! yes, the city was in an uproar at every point and it was with great difficulty that I reached the railroad station. On the way, I was brutally assaulted by roughs who sought to forcibly take away my luggage. Police- men saved me many times, after a hard struggle. When safely seated in the home-bound train I drew a long, deep breath of relief and firmly resolved to never return, under any circumstances." "Dr. Woodbyrne, your story is very interesting and EUROPEAN TRAVEL 113 reminds me of some lively experiences I had at that time." "You don't mean to say you were in New York during the draft riots of '63." "I certainly was and if it would interest you I will relate some of my experiences on that memorable occas- ion. I remember well the month of July in that year, when the great city of New York was in the possession of a murderous mob. I was a student at the time, attending the Medical College, located on the very spot where Tammany Hall now stands. I was going to my preceptor's office one morning when the rioters on Second Avenue were shooting at every one in sight who did not seem to belong to them. I saw people falling on every side of me, either killed outright or badly wounded, and when I noticed them firing in my direc- tion, I sought the protection of a small shade tree, it being the only shelter I could quickly reach. While many near me were hit, I escaped and ran rapidly down the street until I reached the Second Avenue Armory which was then burning like a huge furnace. Workmen, who were caught in the upper stories, sought to save themselves by jumping from the windows. Many poor fellows lay mangled on the ground where they struck, while others bounded back into the flames. It was the most horrible sight I ever beheld. I ran on farther down the avenue and saw much fighting, shooting and slaughter. At one point I counted sixteen dead bodies in a pile in the middle of the road. Col. O'Brien who, with a small detachment of troops, conquered a large force of rioters in another part of the city, was after- ward taken unawares by them and killed on the spot. 114 INCIDENTS OF To wreak their vengeance on him, the wretches dragged his dead body from place to place through the dirt of the street while shouting in ghoulish glee at their hellish deeds. "That same evening about ten o'clock I was obliged to go over to First Avenue. On the way I was overtaken by a wild mob of several hundred, running up the street carrying all sorts of weapons, guns, clubs, carhooks, etc. As they overtook me I was, like many others, ordered to join their ranks. Knowing my life was endangered if I did not fall in, I joined the surging mob and ran along with them, planning all the while how I could escape their clutches. At last I spied a dark alley as we passed up the street. Into this I suddenly darted and rapidly ran a long way through it until I reached a large box in which I hid until the noise of the roiters died away in the distance, I then carefully reconnoitered the surround- ings. Slowly and fearfully I made my way out to the street and finally reached home without encountering any more rioters. "Those were fearful times in New York. Buildings were on fire in every part of the city. Stages and street cars were stopped and all places of business were closed. It really looked at one time as if the mob were in full possession. It was impossible for several days to leave the city, as all means of transportation were suspended and we were, for the time being, veritable prisoners on the Island of Manhattan." During my description of the riots many passengers became very much interested and drew closely around, until my circle of auditors amounted to nearly a score. I was asked about several incidents that interested them EUROPEAN TRAVEL 115 most, to which I responded often in the minutest detail, which seemed to fully satisfy them. The company resolved that it was Dr. Woodbyrne's turn to entertain by a continuance of his reminiscences, some of which they had already heard. "The last time we met," said he, "I was telling you of being safely seated in the train for home. I found many passengers there who had much the same exper- ience as myself. They too were fleeing from the *wrath to come' — from Sodom and Gomorrah, as it were. "On my arrival home I was greeted by parents and friends who were very anxious for my safety during the riots, as they could not hear from me, all communications having been cut off for several days during the most exciting period. AN AUSPICIOUS BEGINNING "With great expectations of professional success I hung out my shingle in front of an unpretentious office and patiently waited for results. Days and even weeks rolled by before I was able to secure any paying patients. Of course my old friends and schoolmates obtained some gratuitous services, on account of early friendship and 'old times,' but I soon found that this kind of work would not buy bread or pay rent and finally did away with that sort of practice. For the really poor I worked as faithfully as if they were giving money to me. I found after a while, that the gratitude of some of them was a well earned asset, while others were as forgetful as the virgins of the Scriptures with their untrimmed and unlighted lamps. "After a few months of close attention to business and untiring perseverance, I succeeded in securing a good 116 INCIDENTS OF paying practice. An encouraging feature of my early career in the profession was an appointment as physician to a young ladies' academy. While holding this position I became acquainted with the head music teacher, a young French lady of rare beauty and splendid accomplish- ments. Although a young bachelor at the time I had not the most remote idea of aspiring to her hand. However, as our acquaintance advanced I began to feel that if For- tune would favor me with such a companion for life I would be the happiest man on earth. Our acquaintance soon ripened into mutual affection which finally resulted in a happy marriage. The lady you saw me with on the promenade deck a few days ago was the young music teacher of long ago. "The town I lived in had no hospital and being anxious to become connected with one, I removed to a city in the northern part of the state where I found one and became connected with it. AN UNEXPECTED REBUFF "Before settling down to general practice I called on a former old-country schoolmate of my father's. As I was a stranger in town I asked him if he would kindly make me acquainted with some desirable families. What was my astonishment when he straightened himself up and throwing out his chest like a pouter pigeon, very pompously declared he would not comply with my re- quest, as it was not his custom to introduce strangers into the circle of his immediate friends. 'Well,' said I, *you cannot look upon me as an absolute stranger, as you know my father so well, and moreover I have credentials of honor with me, if you wish to see them.' 'Well, THE BAPTISTRY AT PISA Built of Carrara marble. Noted for its wonderful pulpit. Echoes in this building rival those of the Pantheon in Paris EUROPEAN TRAVEL 117 well, young man/ said he testily, 'I have no time to bother with you to-day, so will bid you good bye/ With that he abruptly turned away and left me. "I left his inhospitable presence with a full determina- tion to prove to him and his friends that my friendship would ere long be as desirable as any he could boast of. "As the sequel will show I fully accomplished in time what I set out to do. This fellow, whose name was Mur- fett, was at that time a merchant doing a good business. His prosperity puffed him up to such a degree that he aimed to be very aristocratic, so much so that he would not condescend to associate with any one who was not in the realms of flunkeydom. It was excruciatingly funny to witness his attempts at putting on 'lugs.' Men who were once his friends but who had not accumulated much of this world's goods were not any longer recog- nized by him, as he passed them on the street with his chest thrown out and his pug nose elevated to an angle of forty-five degrees or more. He was never accused of being in the least bit educated in the common decencies of life and his awkward attempts at high English would provoke the risibilities of a mere boot-black. "Shortly after I had the 'pleasure' of meeting him I heard he was determined to move to New York as he found that the people in his own town were not, in his estimation, quite up to his ideals of aristocracy. This move proved very disastrous for him, as he lost all he had in a business venture and was obliged to return to his old home a sadder, a humbler but not a wiser man, for he never seemed to possess much of the latter qualifi- cation. "Being now entirely out of business and all broken up 118 INCIDENTS OF he sought, as the last ditch, the humble employment of an itinerant insurance solicitor. In the meantime I had prospered in my profession, so much so that I was en- abled to erect a rather pretentious home. As I was watching the builders one day, who should come shyly ambling up to me but the same 'gentleman' who so rudely repulsed me on my entrance in town a few short years before? I knew him the minute I cast my eyes on his shabby and shuffling form. It was none other than old Murfett himself. As he timidly approached me, he held in his trembling hand a little well worn blank book. After some fulsome praises for my new building, he suavely asked me if I would not do a favor by letting him write a little insurance on it. I looked at him with profound astonishment and could scarcely realize that he was the same fellow who, a short time before, had so rudely repulsed me when I asked him a favor. Suppress- ing my feelings as well as I could, I mildly asked him if he remembered the day we first met in his store on Com- monwealth Avenue. He looked up at me rather sheep- ishly, with a tinge of disappointment, and pretended not to remember that occasion now so vivid in my own recol- lection. In a few carefully chosen words I briefly re- called the day of our first meeting. He diplomatically tried to laugh it off as a good joke. I could not see it in that light however and plainly told him so. I more- over said that from that time to this I frequently recalled the trite old saying, 'It's a long road that has no turn.' 'Yes, Mr. Murfett, we have reached the turn in that road, and for the good of your moral health I will now and here administer to you a dose of your own medicine, nauseous and bitter as it may be. In response to your EUROPEAN TRAVEL 119 modest request I am obliged to give you a negative an- swer as cold and positive as your rebuke to me. I would not give you any insurance if it were to save you from the poorhouse. You do not deserve any kindness or consideration from me, for during your ephemeral reign of prosperity you completely ignored me with your inane pomposity. While I do not intend to imitate your abuse, I simply and positively say that your presence here is not wanted as I have no time to bother with you.' " While Dr. Woodbyrne was relating the above incidents in his career, he was very attentively listened to by a number of passengers who had dropped in during the recital. A MAN FROM JAYVILLE After an awkward silence for a few minutes a stranger stood up and asked the doctor if he might say a few words in reference to what he had just listened to. "Certainly," said the doctor, "that is what we are here for; to discuss entertaining subjects and relate our past experiences, as you know conversation shortens the jour- ney." The stranger, who forgot to introduce himself, was an odd looking specimen of humanity. Evidently from the hills of old Vermont or the back woods of New Hamp- shire, his quaint dialect set off with a pronounced nasal twang was, to say the least, very entertaining. In stature he was undersize — say about five feet five. Fat, rugged and good natured, he seemed to have thrived on the hot corn bread and fried pork of 'way down East. Clad in a new suit of homespun, he was certainly an in- teresting looking character. "It appears to me, Doc," said he, — here he was jerked 120 INCIDENTS OF up with a lively jolt that nearly shivered his timbers, as a sailor would say, for Dr. Woodbyrne suddenly arose to his feet and with unmistakable evidence of injured feel- ings, sternly said : " 'Young man, whom do you ad- dress as 'Doc ?' If you refer to me you will please recall that odious term as I do not recognize it. I consider it not far from a downright insult to be thus addressed. You know, or ought to know, it's only recognized by cheap drug clerks, farriers and downright quacks. If you wish to properly address me use the term Doctor or even my Christian name but never indulge in a term so despised by our profession." "Well, Doctor, — I don't know your other name. I sartinly didn't mean no harm. I beg yer pardin. Up tu our village we always called our physician Doc. Wetherby." "If he was satisfied with that, well and good, but no self-respecting physician would for a moment tolerate such a slangy appellation. I will forgive you this time, but if you know a physician for whom you have any respect never call him Doc." "Well, I was going to say, I'm thinking ye used that feller ye was tellin' about ruther ruff, don't yew?" "Perhaps he didn't know any better'n that. Jes like's not he was a leetle high strung and felt his oats, spec- ially on thet occasion." "Felt his oats ! I guess he did, for he acted like a jack- ass dressed in a lion's skin, and tried to personate the former owner of the tawny integument. Why, if you had seen him strutting around that store, stretched up to his full length with his thumbs stuck in the arm holes of his vest you'd think he was really 'some pumpkins.' " EUROPEAN TRAVEL 121 "I wus goin ter say, Doctor, that mebby he wan't so all fired stuck up as yew thought fer." "I saw enough of him in after life to convince me that he belonged to that class of parvenus who think that the possession of money and some cheap, ephemeral notoriety are the only requisites to boost them into the lime light of an unwarranted authority over their fellow men. They try to frown down talent, education and even good man- ners. Honesty, with such gilded cattle, is only a mark of softness in their estimation and should be sneered at. I am not sorry when a purse-proud biped meets misfor- tune, especially when he gets so puffed up as to ignore his old friends." "Well, cum ter think of it. Doctor, I swan ef I don*t think yer putty near kerrect. I remember old Si Wilkins up ter East Plainville, got so all fired stuck up 'n over- bearin 'cause he struck a streak of bullhead luck thet he would'nt hev nothin tew do with his poor relations and useter not notis em even at prayer meetin. Bimeby, however, he made sum bad dickers and lost everything he had on airth; was clean skooped out. Then he was mity glad tew shine up tew sum of the old timers. Now it was their turn; they wouldn't hev nothin to do with him in no way, shape ner manner and he was obleeged tew leave the village, as it come ter be tew lunsom and chilly fer him. So I think yew give the old stuck-up merchant about what he earned after all." "Well ! my young bucolic friend," said Dr. Woodbyrne, still somewhat nettled by the stranger's mode of address- ing him, "I am glad to perceive you are possessed of some elements of common sense, and I hope you will make use of them in future life. If Fortune smile on 122 INCIDENTS OF you, never forget the friends of your early days, espec- ially if they have failed to keep pace with you in the ac- cumulation of worldly goods. It is unlucky to do so. How many times have we known people, once prosper- ous, proud and haughty, who have been tumbled to the dust by extravagance, negligence, dissipation or loss of health! We can never tell in what form bad luck may reach us. We should therefore always fortify ourselves with the good will of our friends, rich or poor, which may prove a tower of strength, if misfortune should at any time overtake us. As the doctor concluded giving advice to the young man, I took out my watch and was astonished to find we had reached the hour of eleven p. m. I suggested, it was so late, we had better adjourn for the night. All agreed with the proposition and I was glad to get out of the stuffy smoking room into the fresh air. A MIDNIGHT STROLL ON DECK Before returning to my stateroom, late as it was, I resolved to take a few whiffs of the bracing atmosphere and walked briskly up and down the promenade several times. I met several on deck who preferred remaining there to going to their berths. By the way, it's quite a fashion with many people to rest all night, in pleasant weather, in their steamer chairs on deck. If you call it a fad it's a good sensible one, as it gives them full benefit of the pure sea air. A gouty old gentleman of seventy or thereabouts, whom I often met on deck, was leisurely strolling up and down. He was evidently an Englishman of the old aris- tocratic type, full blooded and of ponderous form. His EUROPEAN TRAVEL 123 glossy red face was ornamented with a huge proboscis which had blossomed out to the dimensions of a full blown cauliflower. Ornamented with scarlet-hued ex- cresences it trembled like a lump of glutinous jelly when he heavily walked to and fro. As he approached a pair of his friends, I heard him remark: "Well, boys, I'm feeling a bit fagged out and I guess I'll go down below, take my glass of grog and turn in." THE RISING MOON As the air proved very refreshing and bracing I re- solved to remain on deck for some time, and therefore roamed about from one point to another, often having a chat with people I chanced to meet. At the stern of the vessel I noticed two men standing at the "gunnell" and intently watching the swirling waters of the agitated deep. They were holding an animated conversation on the luminous water in the wake of the vessel. From their accent, I judged they were German- Americans who were returning from Fatherland. They had the appearance of men who had prospered in America and were enjoying the fruits of honest toil and shrewd economy. They appeared about the same age — say 40 or 45. One was a large man of the typical blonde German type, while the other was a chubby, dark complexioned little chap who seemed to be the very personification of good nature. His features did not betray to any extent his Teutonic origin. Referring to the great phosphorescent display on the water, the smaller of the two, who claimed to be well posted on maritime phenomena, remarked that the light was caused by little "crustys." 124 INCIDENTS OF "Crusty what? You're thinkin of pretzels mine lieber frent," said the other. "Well, dot big white foam remints me of goot olt Munchiner beer, ony way." "Hans, I subbose you heardt already once sumpoddy tellin aboud croos-ta-ce-a. Dem's der little fellers what makes all dot lightnin peeshniss. Down in der wasser is mor'n several tousan uf dem leetle pugs, und when der wheels on der big steamer shakes dem oop, dey gets so mad like der very tuyvel und shows der teeth what shines like little Rhinestones, und der bein sooch a crowd uv dem, dey make mighty pig lumin^tions by jiminy." "I'm glat you compleetly oxblaned dot curiousness, Schneider, but vot is der plazes vay off in der end mit der sea?" "Oh dots der moon risin." "Ach ! mine f rendt, vere haff you peen so long. You don't know der sun ven you see it once? It iss unpos- sible to be der moon for dots now too alt und don't shine mooch. It's in der horns und can't make mooch light. Uff you don't tell de sun when you see it, its petter as you go down to bed once, undt rest your swelldt headt. I neffer see der sun mit horns on it." "Veil, uff I can't tell der sun from der moon I advise mineself to study some more ostronominny once." As the sun rose majestically from the horizon, Sch- neider admitted that he was a little hazy on the subject, and felt somewhat crestfallen when his companion danced away with the tantalizing remark : "Goot mornin my dear olt moonatic." A PLAGIARIZING INGRATE Crossing over on the French Steamer La Touraine one Cu H n a B3 13 pi £L n ^. ffi 13 a < w 01 n 13 l-H MH O n o ^ < CO n > ^ ^ ^ H &= K > (T) 3 '> H*, > n ^ n 1— 1 ►>' •^ N Ij' r u r ID ^ en 13 > r O r1 *i H rr M << EUROPEAN TRAVEL 125 summer, I became acquainted with a gentleman who, I afterward learned, was Dr. Josiah L. Montgomery of Lotos, Ohio. I found him very entertaining and full of reminiscences relating to his long professional career. He said, "I have had all sorts of luck; good, bad and indifferent, during the past forty years. I have met with many friends, and, I am happy to say, but few enemies. The former encouraged and helped me in my struggles, stood by me in the days of adversity and rejoiced with me when success crowned my efforts." "I'll acknowledge," said he, "I was always a little too altruistic, especially when I found young men encounter- ing the same obstacles that marred my early days. I not only buoyed them up with encouragement but even extended a helping hand when necessary. One fellow, who vividly comes to mind just now, early sought my advice and asked many favors which I readily granted. Finding I was an *easy mark,' as he afterward said, he lost no opportunity to lean on me when he needed moral, influential or substantial support. "His preparatory studies being finished, he entered a small, struggling medical college which had just started up in our town. The educational advantages to be ob- tained there at that time were very meager. After he had spent three months in that embryo institution, I ad- vised him to enter a larger and older college near New York, where, if he were diligent in his studies, he might possibly get through in the following spring. I heard from him frequently during his sojourn there. He was fearful that he could not pass the examinations when the time came. I gave him all the encouragement I could, and even left a busy practice and went down to his college. 126 INCIDENTS OF many hundreds of miles away, a short time before gradua- tion day. As I was then but a young practitioner myself with very limited means, I could illy afford the time or expense. However I went, and had a conversation with the Dean of the Faculty who said he felt rather doubtful about letting my friend graduate as he had passed a very poor examination. 'However,' said he, 'if you will see to it that he studies more and gets better posted, we will run the risk of giving him a diploma.' I promised I would do all I could for the young man, not only by instructing him but by obtaining for him such work as he might be fitted for. "With that understanding the faculty consented to let him graduate. Not fully realizing the close call he had for being left with the derelicts, he had the presumption to try an examination for a position as an interne in the hospital. In this he completely 'flunked.' He then re- turned home to commence practice on his own hook. "It is a well known fact that when a new doctor first arrives in a neighborhood he doesn't have to wait long for practice, such as it is. The deadbeats of the town, who have worn out the patience and credit of the resident practitioners, patronize him profusely and flatter him with fulsome praises as to his ability and their joy at now having a doctor who understands his business, as 'the old fogies don't know nothin !' "Our young friend was so overwhelmed with this kind of flattery that he really thought he was one of the bright- est lights that ever struck the town. He got trusted for a second hand rig and drove around the city like mad, whether he had a call or not, to make people believe he was doing a rushing business. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 127 "I certainly did not envy him his apparent prosperity, as my former interest in him clearly proved. In fact, I was glad to see him so energetic and hoped he would soon get a paying practice. "One evening I called on an old patient whose case was a tedious one and had demanded my closest attention for several weeks. Entering the house I met a very chilly reception and was received quite formally. I could not account for this sudden change in a family I had known so long and that always greeted my coming with smiles of welcome. I said to the wife, 'What's up now ? Has anything gone wrong?' As I was speaking I no- ticed much subdued excitement and saw several members of the family vigorously gesticulating, whispering among themselves and casting reproachful glances in my direc- tion. "I asked one of the daughters the cause of this un- usual state of affairs. " 'Oh nothing !' said she, 'only we've had a new doctor.' " 'A new doctor !' said I, 'What do you mean by that ?' " 'Why, Mrs. Sloan, across the street, said that her doctor, a new man in town, was great on the 'yaller jand- ers' and she advised us to try him.' " 'Well, you should have notified me that you were going to make a change. It would have been courtesy on your part to save me this unnecessary journey.' " 'I didn't know as you'd care, and, 'sides that, I was afraid to.' " 'You know as well as I can tell you, that your father has been improving under my care for the last two weeks and is now past all danger. His severe attack of gall duct obstruction is now completely relieved. The 'yaller 128 INCIDENTS OF janders,' as you call it, is only a symptom caused by the extravasated bile coloring the skin. Now that the bile is flowing freely through its natural channels he will soon be well, with his skin as clear as ever. What did the new doctor say when he arrived?' " *Not much, only asked how long he had been sick. I told him about five weeks altogether.' " 'Did he ask what physician was attending him ?' " 'Yes, I told him you'd been 'tending him for more than a month. He went over to pa, felt his pulse and tapped him on the chest with a little rubber mallet 'n then listened to his lungs with a small red trumpet. After that he looked around the room and asked to see the medicine. I showed it to him. He tasted it and smelled it, and making a very ugly face, he sat the bot- tle down with a whack and said there was enough pizen in it to kill a dozen men. 'Well, pa's been taking it more two weeks,' said I, 'and he didn't get no worse.' " 'I don't care a straw for that. It's not the proper way to treat him. You had better throw that stuff out the window. I'll give him something that Prof. Lipten- stein always used in such cases.' " "Dr. Montgomery!" said I in profound astonishment, "you don't mean to tell me that the young man whom you so anxiously cared for and helped, suddenly turned on you?" "I certainly do, and I never could learn his object in thus treating me unless it was that he had a silly notion that by injuring my practice he could build himself up on its ruins." "I wonder why he selected you as a victim of his piracy." o O •-t •o ?! 5' o n B ^ £0 y-> n o n o r r o > w H w 5 't) c O S O cr EUROPEAN TRAVEL 129 "I really never could understand that, unless it was that he knew me better than he did the other doctors, and relying on my good nature thought it safer to do so." "Did you help him any more after you discovered his plan of campaign?" "Most assuredly not. From that time on I allowed him to paddle his own canoe. When he did find that I really resented his interference and acted on the defen- sive, he began to add insult to injury by trying to hurt my character with malicious insinuations and downright slander, for you know slander is the solace of malig- nancy." Dr. Montgomery at this point hurriedly drew out his watch and looking at it said, "By Jove! I had almost forgotten it. I had an engagement to meet a gentleman in the music room at three o'clock and now it's nearly four. You'll please excuse me for a few moments. I remarked that time does fly rapidly when an inter- esting story is being told. "Yes," he said, rather sadly, "it may be interesting to my hearers but I can assure you it is anything but pleasant for me to recall the treachery of that fellow who finally proved to be the real personification of ingratitude. When I return from the music room I'll tell you more about him." "Thank you," said a gentleman who sat next me, "we'd be very glad to hear more about that egotistical chap as I have in mind a neighbor at home who is much the same kind of a creature." During the absence of Dr. Montgomery we passed the time in commenting on what we had just heard. One passenger remarked that the more you do for some 130 INCIDENTS OF people the more they try to injure you. On the least pretext, and often on no pretext at all, they will show their malignancy. At this point, Dr. Montgomery returned from the music room. **As I was telling, this precocious chap rapidly devel- oped into a full-fledged professional pirate. He ignored all ethics and fairly despised the Golden Rule. He insin- uatingly wormed himself into the practice of other men when he could do so by plausible stories of his 'wonderful ability.' He was very suave to the wealthy and corres- pondingly domineering to the poorer classes of his former acquaintances. If he could touch elbows with the rich, his ambition was fully gratified. "He had no scruples as to the means of placing him- self in the lime-light of publicity and even went so far as to plagiarize a lecture written by a professor in a West- ern college. Claiming this as his own production, he pompously delivered it before a medical society in our town, and even went so far as to repeat it in several parts of the state, until his friends advised him to let up on it as the public were now pretty well informed as to who the real author was. "He made no more breaks of that kind until a few months ago, when, thinking his former fiasco had been fully forgotten, he had the audacity to send to a local paper an article which he claimed as his own. It was a facetious account of a baseball game played between the doctors and lawyers of the town. The article was really written by S. Q. Lapius and was published in one of our morning papers July 12, 1877. In looking over a trunk in my stateroom this morning I fortunately EUROPEAN TRAVEL 131 came across an old newspaper containing that very ar- ticle. Do you care to hear it? It is silly stuff anyway but he thought it was great." "Certainly, let's have it," cried several at once. "It may amuse us," said one, "as you know 'a little nonsense now and then is relished by the wisest men.' " A BASE BALL CHALLENGE "Well, gentlemen, here goes!" " 'Owing to a concatenation of fortituitous circum- stances, superinduced by a succession of unparalleled coincidences, we the sons of Aesculapius have learned with unfeigned regret, of a fearful epidemic prevailing in our midst, the symptoms of which in the active stages are startling gyrations, fruitless attempts to strike at ob- jects in the air, monomania for running at bags, accelera- tion of pulse, elevation of temperature, labored respira- tion, passive hyperaemia followed by profuse diaphoresis with direful hallucinations. The second day usually finds the sufferer not unlike one who has been fondling a twenty-horse power threshing machine. Not infre- quently this stage is marked by opisthotnos, subsultus tendinum, ischialgia, graphospasmus, gastrodynia, cep- halgia and insomnia. We are told the disciples of Black- stone now have the premonitory symptoms. We there- fore solicit such to meet us at Lakeside park on any day they may designate, where we will make a careful diag- nosis of their malady, give them heroic treatment on the ball field and prognosticate as to their ultimate recovery.' " "There was nothing original about him but he was a faithful imitator. If he could surreptitiously appropriate 132 INCIDENTS OF the products of his neighbor's talents he never hesitated to do so." A TIME SERVING HYPOCRITE When Dr. Montgomery had finished his story, an aged man who had been an earnest listener most of the time spoke up, saying it reminded him so much of a similar character in his town that he'd like to relate a little of his experience. This gentleman was one of the real old stock, evi- dently from away down East somewhere. He was tall, lean and lank. With a long nose, sharp chin and bright, piercing eyes he reminded me of the redoubtable Uncle Sam. He spoke with a long, deliberate drawl so peculiar to the people of his section. With a pronounced nasal twang he indulged in the dialect acquired by con- stant association with people of his neighborhood. Evi- dently a man of culture and education, he preferred this easy style of conversation. "Well, gentlemen," said he, "bein's I'm a stranger to most of you I'll introduce myself before commencin'. My name is Stebbins. I'm known up our way as Dr. Silas Stebbins. We had a fellow out in our country that started in to practice medicine with a flourish that made the folks sit up an' take notice. The first thing he did after comin' to town was to get a stunnin' double rig and drive around like all possessed. Like the fakirs we read about, he did for certain stir up quite a business in a mighty short time. After a while he got into politics and had himself elected to a responsible position of public trust. Not willin' to keep in the 'straight and narrow path, as he could not make money fast enough . > o § tn > ro 5^ td r r+ M 3 O o § c« td O Pu h- 1 B ^ z o 1 > H § tr Td •<; CJ 13- w > fD ^ Tt H P O EUROPEAN TRAVEL 133 that way, he went into several dubious schemes for get- ting rich quick. With many other things he was accused of asking for and receiving a bribe of several hundred dollars. The taxpayers got onto it and made a big fuss over it. The agitation got so fierce that he was hauled up and indicted. To keep him out of jail, until his trial came on, one of his friends put up a large bond. "Knowin' the people felt so bitter agin him for his betrayal of their confidence, he was afraid to be tried in his own town, so he got a change of venue and was tried in another city where the real circumstances of the case were not so well known. *'He hired a famous criminal lawyer to defend him, went through the farce of trial, got out of the scrape and returned home. "His lucky escape from State's prison seemed to harden his cheek to a greater extent, if possible, and he put on more 'lugs' than ever. To pull the wool over folks' eyes he worked the pious racket and would attend meetin' as regular as any old deekin. So that people'd know he was in the saint business, he'd get out in the middle aisle and go through all the pious motions he could think of. "Some poor critters really thought he was right down in earnest, 'specially the old maids when they had the hysterics. He even got the ministers on his side to help him along in business. "I never had much agin him, only that I didn't quite like the way he appreciated my kindness tew him when he first came to town. His wife got sick and when he thought he was goin' tew lose both her and her unborn child he sent for me in the middle of a cold, stormy night. 134 INCIDENTS OF I got there in time to save them both. Her mother stood by with tears of gratitude in her eyes and thanked me over and over again for my skill in saving two lives, both mother and child. "The doctor hung his head as if ashamed of his lack of ability in such an emergency and let me start for home without even thanking me. The green eyed monster Jealousy might have stung him so hard even then, that he forgot all about his benefactor. He asked me many more favors after that which I readily granted, as I hoped the excitement and worry of that eventful night was a sufficient excuse for his seeming lack of apprecia- tion. However, I soon began to hear, through others, that he was trying to make inroads on my practice by sinister remarks and insinuations detrimental to my char- acter. He even went so far as to announce, on one occasion, that old Stebbins had never done anything for him, and that he was under no obligations to him. "After hearing that almost incredible story of down- right treachery, I asked if I could give my opinion on that class of creatures as I had often been stung by them myself. Having obtained an audience (as all wanted to speak at once) I said, "I have with me a copy of an article I once wrote on the subject of ingratitude." I handed it out for each to read. One young man who seemed very much interested in it, asked if he might read it aloud for the company. Having my permission to do so, he proceeded as follows: HIDEOUS INGRATITUDE "Were it possible to correctly and fully describe in- gratitude, the task would be so repulsive that the pen EUROPEAN TRAVEL 135 of man might shrink from it. Of all the sins of human kind, ingratitude is the most despicable and cowardly. The man or woman afflicted with this most loathsome turpitude, I had almost said, is to be pitied, but no, for the disease springs from a vicious temperament, intense selfishness, uncontrollable avarice or insane jealousy. Weak ingrates have no control over these emotions and possibly, after all, a little leniency is due them, for the affliction clings to them like mortality to the deceased Ethiopian. The biped who must resort to this vile recre- ancy for gain, advancement or envy, is absolutely unfit for association with honest men. "The ingrate is base enough to ask favors from well tried friends and to seek the first opportunity or pre- text to injure his unsuspecting benefactors. His quondam friend is the altruistic unfortunate he is particularly after. If he can steal away his good name or otherwise injure him, his cup af grudge is more than full, his morbid anatomy fairly trembles with a satanic chuckle of hellish delight, and a grin of idiotic satisfaction glimmers on his simian phiz. "The tramp asks favors of philanthropic strangers and, in pity, is sometimes even admitted to the family table, where he gorges himself with the best the house affords. In return, he steals if possible, his host's valuables and thereby proves himself a vile ingrate. The snake, a proto- type of the ingrate, when frozen, was taken into the warm house and thawed out. No sooner was he capable, than he viciously implanted his venemous fangs into the very hand that saved him. "The ingrate robs the dead, aye, even his dead bene- factors of their good name. The old adage: Tut a 136 INCIDENTS OF beggar on horseback and he will ride to the devil' was inspired when the ingrate, by a freak of fickle fortune, became possessed of a little means, and began to show his treachery to the very friend who assisted him. "Volumes might be written on this unpleasant subject, but suffice it to say for the present, that all the effect it would have on the above mentioned nondescript would be to provoke a silly grin, whenever he held before him this veracious mirror, reflecting his true character. "He might possibly find a warning in these famous lines of the immortal Scott : " 'The wretch concentered all in self Living, shall forfeit fair renown And doubly dying, shall go down To the vile dust from whence he sprung Unwept, unhonored and unsung/ "Base ingrate, reflect on the following golden words of Polonius when giving advice to his son Laertes : " 'The friends thou hast, and their adoption tried, grapple them to thy soul with hooks of steel. This above all — to thine ownself be true. And it must fol- low, as the night the day, thou canst not then be false to any man.' " A TRIO OF APT APHORISMS "Slander is the solace of malignity." "Jealousy is the homage that inferiority pays to merit." "A man's most bitter enemy is the 'friend' who can no longer keep silent." AN UNWELCOME "COMPAGNON DE VOYAGE" As I never played cards on shipboard, or anywhere else for that matter, I generally passed the time in either H W W O r w w r; C/J H rt- ^, O 3 a a n t^ W n n n K O P w t-i- d o (— 1 d ri w 1— 1 :z; j^ o g w EUROPEAN TRAVEL 137 reading, walking on deck or listening to interesting stories told by passengers who frequently gathered in groups to while away the time in that manner. As my object in taking an ocean voyage was to obtain some- thing as near absolute rest as possible, from the ever- lasting grind of professional work, I found that the con- versational pastime appealed to me more than anything else. People from different parts of the world had vari- ous experiences which they, in many instances, were willing and even anxious to relate. You know if a per- son can make himself the hero of some remarkable ad- venture he is more than willing to have attentive listen- ers. That's human nature and it's all right. Among the many stories told on the Steamer La Bret- agne I will relate one I heard from a gentleman who had the misfortune to be afflicted with an undesirable "com- pagnon de voyage," as the French would say. As 1 could not remember all the details of that remarkable story I will quote from the paper of a stenographer who, unobserved, took notes and afterwards lent me a type- written copy of them. There were some stenographers on the ship who made it a business of taking down inter- esting conversations, selling their products to their home paper or making them the basis of prospective novels. The man who was entertaining the little circle was evidently an Irish-American. He had seen a good deal of the world and had met people of all kinds and classes. He was a man between fifty and fifty-five, well preserved and had a professional air that would indicate he was either a doctor or lawyer. I never ascertained which from anything he said, as he seemed to be rather un- willing to reveal his identity. After returning to my 138 INCIDENTS OF stateroom I carefully copied the stenographer's trans- cript which I here give in full : "In July 1901 I made up my mind to take a little re- laxation from the cares of business and resolved to take a trip to Europe where I had been many times before. I had traveled single and double, as the horseman would say, and made up my mind from former experience, that I would go it alone this time. "After carefully arranging my business affairs in such a manner that they would go on smoothly during my ab- sence and also that if anything should happen to me, my estate would be left in a satisfactory condition, I started for New York, intending to sail the following day. "On my arrival at the steamship dock, whom should I meet but an individual I never cared very much for. He rushed up to me with outstretched hand and a grin of delight, and gleefully informed me that he was to be my fellow passenger. He said that he heard, only yes- terday, that I was going to Europe and knowing I had been there several times before and was an experienced traveler, he had made up his mind to go with me and secured, at the last moment, passage on the very boat I was to sail on and more than that he had even got a berth in the same stateroom with me. "If a cyclone had struck me, I would not have been more disconcerted, as I had fully made up my mind to enjoy this particular trip in single blessedness so that I could go and come without consulting the wishes of a second party. I will admit, however, that a good, genial companion with whom you are well acquainted and has tastes in accordance with your own, is often a very de- sirable adjunct to a European trip, but, when a fellow, EUROPEAN TRAVEL 139 whom you don't care for, forces his companionship on you, it is often a very serious matter and frequently mars the pleasures of the entire journey. So it was in this case. "The fellow I'm to speak of was a six foot specimen of the rough and ready ignoramus who, because he had made a little money in the oil regions, felt his oats and even his slapjacks of former days and was ready at all times and on all occasions to 'rush in where angels fear to tread.' "After boarding the ship he acted like a cat in a strange garret, rushing around from place to place; and reminded me of my boyhood days when the old circus clown used to run out of the ring and shake hands with everybody, without the formality of an introduction. A kid with his first pair of red topped boots could not have been more tickled than he was at the novelty of the surroundings. As to asking questions, he kept sailors and passengers busy answering all sorts of conundrums. I kept aloof from him as much as possible, for, the weather being very warm, it did not take much to make me 'fry with the shame.' "When we landed on the other side he was at a com- plete loss as to procedure. Being perfectly innocent of the very rudiments of geography, he was ignorant of the relative positions of the different countries and cities we were to visit. "One of the most unique and silly pieces of impudence I ever witnessed was exploited soon after Jim's arrival at the Imperial Hotel in Cork. With much attempted pomposity he strode awkwardly up to the manager's office and demanded paper, pen and ink. With these in 140 INCIDENTS OF hand he hurriedly sat down at the nearest table and scribbled off a note to the mayor of the city, telling that he had just arrived from America and would like to have His Lordship call on him as soon as possible. With the air of a scion of the royal blood he ordered a messenger to take it as soon as possible to the mayor's office. About an hour afterwards a reply came from municipal headquarters containing expressions commenting on the presumption that I will charitably refrain from repeat- ing. "Under my careful chaperoning he got along fairly well. I tried, under the circumstances, to make every- thing as pleasant as possible for him and even went so far as to introduce him to my relatives and friends over there. On my account he was a welcome guest at their homes where we were wined and dined with profuse hospitality. I am sorry to say, in passing, that his man- ners at table were anything but creditable to the land he hailed from. "On one occasion we were conducted through a large linen mill of Belfast by a gentleman whose affable and aristocratic manner would indicate, to the casual observer, a man of high position. He carefully explained the dif- ferent processes by which the various fabrics were pro- duced and patiently showed us through every part of the immense establishment. As we were about to de- part, my bucolic friend took out his wallet and, with the lofty air of a reckless tipster, offered the gentleman a shilling for his trouble. The latter looked at him with an air of dignified astonishment saying: *Sir, I am the proprietor of this establishment,' and suddenly walked off without the usual good bye. Here was another pen- o o hj W a M < w in l-H H so in , td > O H O to O W H > O W o EUROPEAN TRAVEL 141 alty I had to endure as the result of unwelcome company. "At Glasgow we stopped at the Hotel St. Enoch. It is a custom there to announce by bulletin distinguished or titled guests on their arrival. As we came down stairs one morning I noticed my name among the notable arrivals. He scanned the board very anxiously but could not see his name there and seemed quite roiled at the omission. He excitedly ran over to one of the hall porters and asked why his name was not on the bulletin. He was told that no names appeared there except those of titled persons, professional men and others of note. 'O, well/ said he, 'my name's not up there because I'm only plain Jim Brown.' "After Jim had become fairly well posted, by constant tutelage, he began to get restless and felt that now, as he knew the ropes pretty well, he would venture off alone where he could get a little more gay without being noticed. "One fine morning he skipped away without as much as saying good bye. I didn't see any more of him until we met at the Southwestern Hotel in Liverpool. While there I asked him if he would like to see the famous docks. He had never heard of them before, but on my description of their magnitude and grandeur and the im- mense amount of shipping from all parts of the world, he consented to go. "As it was his turn to pay the cab fare, I said to him : 'Jim, when you order a cab in Liverpool it is always pru- dent to make a hard and tight bargain with the driver before starting, and also to take note of his number for they are very quarrelsome chaps and will demand an ad- ditional fee on return. If this fellow tries that game, all 142 INCIDENTS OF you have to say is : *IVe got your number' and he will immediately subside, being afraid of a complaint reach- ing headquarters, which means instant dismissal/ "After we had visited the docks and the Steamship Oceanic which had just arrived from Belfast on her initial trip, we returned to the hotel. When Jim offered to pay the cabman, he insolently demanded more than was bargained for. Jim spoke up and said: 'I know your number, my man, and will report you if you make us any more trouble.' Cabby immediately surrendered and drove off without any more belligerent demonstra- tions. There ! didn't I tell you, Jim,' said I, 'that you'd have no trouble if you told him you had his number ?' "Jim turned on me with a scowl and fiercely said, *Huh! mebby you learned me all I ever knew!' This outburst was a fair sample of all his pent up malignity. "Ignoring this uncalled for insult, I arranged for his ticket, stateroom, seat at table and other details and even saw him safely aboard his ship. I did not have any conversation with him after that until I met him in the streets of our home city in the far West." "This story is related to you," said the stranger, "for the purpose of illustrating the danger of allowing un- desirable persons to join you in travel. You cannot be too careful in selecting your company for a journey which involves so much interdependence and necessarily requires great forbearance on many occasions. Tastes differ, so do tempers and it is sometimes very difficult to have them all run smoothly in the same groove. Never allow any undesirable person to travel with you, as it is inviting misery, disappointment and often disgust." EUROPEAN TRAVEL 143 The above narrative is here recorded with the hope that some prospective tourist may profit thereby and learn from the experience of an unfortunate. OLD FLAN, THE HANDY MAN Among the many story tellers on the Steamship Cam- pania was a young surgeon who related an experience he had a few years before. "One stormy day in the month of November, 1898/' said he, "I was hurriedly called to an accident that oc- curred at a place called Nenagh Hill, not very far from my home. As the messenger seemed to be in a desper- ate hurry and much excited, I went with him as soon as I could have my horse hitched and driven up to the door, although many patients were then in the office waiting to consult me. You know it is characteristic of the enthusiastic surgeon to let all else wait when an ac- cident is on. After driving my horse for an hour or more over the rough country roads, we reached a little cabin at the edge of a dense pine wood. Around it was gathered a goodly portion of the neighborhood and all was excitement. To make my way to the bedside of the patient was almost impossible, as the little home was crowded to suffocation with sympathizing friends. Some were crying, some were giving orders, while others wildly gesticulated in their efforts to tell how the whole thing happened. With gentle diplomacy and pertinent questions patiently put, I succeeded in getting at the real nature of the accident and the cause of it. "It appears that the widow Doheny, for that was her name, owned a fine brlndle cow of which she was very proud. It had recently become the mother of a pretty 144 INCIDENTS OF little calf. They were kept in an enclosure at the back of the house. Early that morning the widow went out with a generous warm bran mash to feed her proteges. The cow, very jealous of her offspring, seemed to think the widow's entrance into the pen an unwarranted intru- sion and became much agitated. In her frenzy she made a mad rush at the frightened woman and tossed her high in the air and over the enclosure into the road. When picked up she was more dead than alive. Friends had carried her into the house and gently laid her on the bed before I reached there. After a careful examina- tion I found she had sustained, among other injuries, a badly broken leg. In my hurried departure from home I failed to bring anything for such an emergency. This not being the first time I was caught that way, the want of regulation splints did not prevent my setting the leg, or reducing the fracture, as the surgeons would say, and giving it a temporary dressing. Looking about for proper material, I was informed that there was nothing suitable in the house. One Rodney Flanigan, who stood at my elbow, well known in that vicinity as a very handy man, kindly volunteered to get me anything I wanted for dressings. I asked him if he could procure a few pieces of lath or even some shingles. He ran off to a new build- ing on the next block and brought back an armful of lath and shingles enough to cover a Chinese pagoda. I began immediately to prepare the splints, with some help and many suggestions from Flan, as they called him for short. All being ready, I proceeded to replace the bones which was accomplished without much pain to the patient but wdth many 'Oh ! Ohs !' from the feminine por- tion of the bystanders. A VIEW OF PARIS AS PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A BALLOON BY THE AUTHOR EUROPEAN TRAVEL 145 "During the application of the splints, Flan stood at my side intently watching the proceedings. Becoming greatly interested, he ventured a few suggestions as to their proper adjustment. 'Don't you think, doctor,' said he, 'that bit of boord shud be put a little more to the back of the gam? Howld on a minute,' continued he, 'your stick on the ither side is a bit too short, I think.' I kept on at my work without seeming to appreciate his prolific and constant flow of wisdom. At last, however, getting out of patience with his annoyance but keeping my temper, I straightened up from the patient, over whom I was leaning, and said in as gentle a voice as I could, *Flan, come this way a minute.' This sudden and unex- pected invitation created much curiosity in the crowd. With an ominous hush and enquiring glances, they won- dered what was coming next. I led him around to the opposite side of the bed, and gently raising the corner of the quilt to the knee, showed him the sound leg of the two and asked him what he thought of it. In astonish- ment he looked up at me, and holding his chin in his hand said: 'Sure, divil a thing's the matther wid that. If s as f oine a limb as I ever see. God bless it !' 'Well !' said I, with all the solemnity I could muster, 'Flan, you will kindly take charge of this leg while I finish dressing the broken one.' "Grief and condolences were for the time forgotten, and all broke out into a hearty laugh at Flan's discom- fiture. To this day he frequently is reminded of his voluntary suggestions to the surgeon, during the dressing of the widow's broken leg on Nenagh Hill. "Old Flan's good nature and timely assistance were fully appreciated, but when he assumed the responsible 146 INCIDENTS OF position of consulting surgeon, I thought the limit was reached. He vividly brought to mind the Latin adage: *Ne sutor ultra crepidam' — ^the shoemaker should stick to his last." A PENALTY OF PATRIOTISM Having enjoyed many stories from the passengers of the Campania, I at last felt that I should contribute my share to the favorite pastime. I therefore gave out the following narrative which appeared to entertain my hearers. "The scene I am about to describe took place in my office about twenty-seven years ago. It was to me so unique that I told it to a Herald reporter who gave it to his paper. Exchanges reprinted it far and wide; even the monthly magazines gave it a prominent place in their pages. "At the time of the incident I was living in Hudson street and had an office on the second floor of the Alpha Flats. One pleasant evening in July — in fact, it was the glorious Fourth — as I was sitting at my window admiring the patriotic efforts of the street gamins in their anxiety to properly celebrate Independence Day by firing off all kinds of blunderbusses and cannon crackers, producing general pandemonium, my amusement was somewhat rudely disturbed by a great commotion of many men with heavy boots scuffling up the stairway. Rushing through the door pell mell, a large and excited delegation of deck hands soon filled the room. I could not account for their sudden invasion, until the leader, a burly specimen of the Emerald Isle, tattered and torn, approached me with both hands holding fast to his chin. Acting as spokes- EUROPEAN TRAVEL 147 man, he said in broken accents: 'Doctor, you'll excuse me appearance but, it bein' the Foorth, meself an' a few of the byes were having a little divarsion on the hill beyant whin one av them gav me a shlap av an owld shoe on the jah.' While relating the details of the scrim- mage he rapidly walked to and fro and seemed to be in great pain. I tried to quiet him and told him to be seated that I might make an investigation. On a cursory examination I soon ascertained the extent of his injuries and said to him: 'Why man, your jaw is broken. How could the slap of an old shoe do so much damage ?' " 'Ouch ! howld on docther, aisy ! Melia murther youre hurtin me. Moind you, there was a fut in that owld shoe, and a big wan too.' " 'Oh well !' said I, 'that readily accounts for the dilapidated condition of your nether masticator.' "I set his jaw and wired the separated teeth together to make assurance of union doubly sure, and carefully swathed his head in snowy white bandages until he looked like a Hibernian Turk wearing a holiday turban. "He and his companions, after many thanks, walked forth from the office with an ominous swagger that por- tended little good for 'the haythen that gev him a shlap av an owld shoe.' " V MUTUAL APPRECIATION ONE evening we were sitting in the smoking room of the Steamship HohenzoUern listening to a vioHnist who seemed to be inspired by the roll- ing waves of old ocean or the winds whistling around us, for he played like one enchanted. After his generous number of choice selections was finished, a self-appointed master of ceremonies reminded me that I had not as yet contributed to the evening's entertainment by singing a song or telling a story. I told him I was never found guilty of even attempting to sing a song, as I had some regard for the feelings of my friends and neighbors. As to the story-telling, I would try to entertain them by re- lating a bit of history which was in such striking contrast to the harrowing tales of ingratitude I had heard the night before, that it would prove there is still some grati- tude left in this selfish old world for kindness shown, es- pecially when one meets real men. "Away back in war times I was studying medicine in Binghamton under Dr. Brooks as my preceptor. He was then the most eminent practitioner in Southern New York. I found him a very pleasant gentleman and re- mained with him until I entered a medical college. Dur- ing my stay there I often heard him speak of Dr. George K. Smith, at that time a professor in Long Island Medi- cal College. He told me the doctor was once a student PANTHEON AT PARIS AND SHRINE OF ST. GENEVIEVE, PATRONESS OF THE CITY EUROPEAN TRAVEL 149 in his office and spoke very highly of him as a physician and a man in the highest sense of the word. When I was about to go to New York he gave me a letter of introduction to Dr. Smith. This document proved of great service, as in the doctor I found a friend who was not only willing but eager to grant me any favor I might ask. "In after years as I was one day standing in my office in Syracuse looking out the window, I noticed a young man entering a drugstore on the opposite corner. He was tall, straight and dignified in manner. As he was dressed in dark clothes and wore a long black coat and high silk hat, I took him for a minister or a professor in some university. "While I was still standing there I noticed him com- ing out of the store and crossing the street in my direc- tion. Soon a rap at the door told the arrival of the young man at my home. Entering the office he an- nounced himself as a nephew of my old Brooklyn friend, Dr. George K. Smith. That was all the recommenda- tion I needed, but to supplement this he produced a let- ter of introduction from his uncle which was very com- plimentary to the young man's past history, and con- cluded by hoping I would extend to him the right hand of fellowship as he had just graduated from the Uni- versity of New York and intended to make Syracuse his future home. "I was more than pleased to meet the young doctor and told him I would be only too glad to advance his in- terests in every way I could. He seemed very much gratified with his reception, and assured me he would fully appreciate anything I might do for him. 150 INCIDENTS OF "After a very pleasant visit he informed me of his in- tention to locate in Syracuse. I encouraged him to do so, and advised him as to the best part of the city in which to begin his professional career. He did as I suggested and located in a busy manufacturing district. His decision proved a lucky one, for he was soon a hustling young practitioner with all he could comfortably attend to. "As time went on his practice increased so much he was obliged to seek larger quarters and, to firmly es- tablish himself, he purchased an elegant and commodious home. He was honored with many public offices. Among them were some of the highest positions in the gift of his city and state. "His rapidly successful career soon aroused the envy and jealousy of some of the medical proletariat. Paying no attention to the carping of the Lilliputs, he steadily advanced in the estimation of the people until he now stands in the front ranks of the profession to which he is a credit. "The gentleman to whom I refer is Dr. Frederick W. Smith of Syracuse, N. Y. He has lately published a work entitled 'Essentials of Practical Hygiene,' which is considered one of the best on that subject. Among the most entertaining and instructive portions of his book are the Chapters on Infancy, Adolescence, Maternity, Childhood, Moral Hygiene, School Hygiene and Muni- cipal Hygiene. It is a work of nearly three hundred pages and does honor not only to Dr. Smith but to the city of Syracuse, his adopted home. "When his book was issued from the press, he pre- sented me with the first copy. On opening it I was EUROPEAN TRAVEL 151 agreeably surprised to find the following on the first page: 'to my dear friend DR. GREGORY DOYLE OF SYRACUSE^ N. Y. THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. WHEN I BEGAN THE PRACTICE OF MEDICINE IN SYRACUSE IN 1881, I WAS A STRANGER IN A STRANGE CITY. I FORTUNATELY MET DR. DOYLE WHO EXTENDED TO ME THE RIGHT HAND OF FELLOWSHIP IN SUCH A MANNER THAT I FEEL I OWE TO HIM AND HIS LASTING FRIENDSHIP AND PATERNAL ADVICE MUCH OF MY PROFESSIONAL SUCCESS.' ''Here is an act of gratitude from a man who hon- estly differs with me in religion and politics and whose birthplace is separated from mine by the broad At- lantic, but "He was a man for a' that." "Dr. Smith's magnanimous recognition of my efforts in his behalf went a long way to heal a heart lacerated by the ingratitude, treachery and abuse of some of my coun- trymen and co-religionists who have often asked and re- ceived a helping hand and professional advice from me. "Hoping, gentlemen of the Hohenzollern, that my re- 152 INCIDENTS OF lation of this true story of my experience with profes- sional brethren will be accepted as my contribution to the entertainment this evening, I will now retire to my state- room as we must have rest on sea as well as on shore. Hoping to see you all on deck in the morning, I will now say 'Au revoir/ " o O > P O w o > I VI GERMANY IN September, 1889, Mr. Henry A. Smith and the author were on their homeward journey after mak- ing an extensive tour of Southern Europe. One pleasant evening we found ourselves in Frankfort-on-the- Main enroute for Mayence-on-the-Rhine. A SERIO-COMIC INCIDENT On our arrival at Frankfort we boarded a transit trolley car which, we were told, would take us to the Mayence station on the other side of the city. I seated myself in the car while Mr. Smith remained on the rear platform to be near the grips which we left there. Shortly after we started I heard a great commotion and, as the car suddenly stopped, went outside to investigate. I found my friend and the conductor out on the street in an excited and gesticulating Anglo-German verbal war. It appears that the conductor, without making an enquiry as to whom the grips belonged, unceremoniously and in- dignantly pitched them off the platform into the street. Of course my friend went off also to look after our property so rudely scattered. Not understanding one another, the American and the German made a comical attempt at convincing arguments, which Mr. Smith adroitly and quickly ended by handing the cantankerous little conductor a large silver piece. The argent remedy 154 INCIDENTS OF acted like a charm and the stuffy little tyrant returned to his car with the strut of a conquering hero, while Mr. Smith and I replaced the grips. It appears that no luggage is allowed on the German trolleys unless previously arranged for. When we told the conductor we wanted to be taken to the other station that we might continue our journey on to Mayence he carelessly answered "yaw yaw," and we resumed our seats. This little fiasco being over, we continued our journey in peace, until we reached what, we supposed, was the neighborhood of the Mayence station. Instead of reach- ing the desired spot we were landed in the car barns at the edge of the woods, just outside of the city limits. That was the last car for the night. Here we were in a foreign land among strangers, not knowing what to do or where to go. After holding council and considering ways and means, we silently, and with humble resigna- tion, clutched our ponderous grips and, in the atramental darkness, began our silent and weary journey for the city, whose glimmering lights we could discern afar off. After a long and weary tramp we reached a good looking hotel and were glad our toilsome journey was at an end, as we supposed, for the night, but disappointment was again our lot, for the clerk politely informed us that the hotel was filled and that we could not get a room there for love or money, as we had not telegraphed in advance for one. He directed us to another hotel and we trudged on with our heavy grips, only to again meet disappoint- ment at the second place. We went to five or six hotels with the same result, and only stopped roaming around when we were informed by a considerate gentleman that EUROPEAN TRAVEL 155 there was a large convention in the city and that all the hotel accommodations were spoken for, many days in advance. I got rather discouraged at this belated piece of information, and firmly resolved that I would go no farther that night, but would rest my weary limbs by sitting down on my grip and remaining on the street until morning. Mr. Smith, who is ever resourceful, was suddenly seized with a novel idea. He proposed that we hire a hack and ride about the city until broad daylight in the morning. I immediately and willingly assented. We hailed the first cabby that came along and made a bargain with him for a night's lodging. After being snugly ensconced in the ancient rig, the sleepier of the pair took a much needed snooze, while the other remained awake. When a half hour had elapsed he aroused his companion and took a nap himself. This continued performance was repeated every half hour until morning, when each resolved he had had a very good night's rest in the street. Welcome daylight having dawned, we found a restaurant where we had a sub- stantial breakfast and after that succeeded in finding the Mayence station. MAYENCE Mayence, or Mainz, as they call it in Germany, is a fine old city on the Rhine with an antique air about it that at once enlists the attention of the tourist. Among the many notable buildings is the great cathedral with its six stately towers. The exterior of the edifice is of rather pleasing proportions; its interior however is gloomy and presents the appearance of a great mauso- leum rather than that of a cheerful house of worship. 156 INCIDENTS OF The walls are nearly hidden with a profusion of gloomy statues, blackened by age and fallen into partial decay through neglect. Its flooring is made up of well worn tiles of various colors, and a large number of marble slabs. For the most part the latter are covered with memorials of cardinals, bishops and other dignitaries who have long since been buried there. In this respect it re- minded me very much of Westminster Abbey. As every school boy knows, or ought to know, May- ence was the home of Gutenberg, the inventor of print- ing. For many years before his time impressions, with what is known as solid block letters, were made, but he was the inventor of the moveable or separate type, an achievement that was destined to dominate the world for all time to come. As a becoming inauguration of so great an art he at once set about the task of printing a Latin Bible, and persevered in it against many obstacles placed in his way by poverty and inexperience, until he was able to give an anxiously waiting public the complete work in 1468. Like many benefactors of mankind, poor Gutenberg was allowed by an ungrateful people to die in poverty, friendless and alone. His death took place in his native city Oct. 2, 1468. His marvelous achievement was of far greater benefit to mankind than the victories of armies or the discovery of the North Pole which has been just announced (Sept. 1, 1909). There is a charm about those ancient German cities that is as unique as some of their old buildings and cus- toms. The dress of the laboring classes seems more adapted to solid comfort than mere display. With their I EUROPEAN TRAVEL 157 long pipes and heavy shoes, artisans and laborers leis- urely wend their way to daily toil with an air of satis- faction that would make a bloated bond holder nervous with envy. The frauleins whom one meets on the street are pictures of neatness and frugality, as they flit by in their comfortable homespun gowns. At our hotel near the river I met a gentleman who had some trouble in trying to open his trunk as he had lost his key. In his distress he asked if I would lend him my bunch to see if he could find one that would answer the purpose. I readily complied with his request. Having found a key that would do the work he returned them with many thanks. This little incident led to our forming an acquaintance which was found mutually agreeable. In the course of our conversation I learned that the gentleman was Mr. S. L. Mestrezat of Union- town, Pa., a lawyer by profession. (I learn he has since been raised to a judgeship in the Supreme Court of Penn- sylvania.) DOWN THE RHINE When we took the boat for a trip down the Rhine to Cologne Mr. Mestrezat went with us and proved to be a very pleasant "compagnon de voyage." His thorough knowledge of the country through which we were traveling and the entertaining manner in which he utilized it for the benefit of his hearers was very gratify- ing and highly appreciated. As we proceeded down the famous river he pointed out many places of historical note and gave interesting descriptions of the various old castles and crumbling ruins that adorned its shore. 158 INCIDENTS OF Our first stop was at "Bingen, fair Bingen on the Rhine," so famed in the song and story of our childhood days. As the sailors were having some difficulty in making a landing, the pompous little captain, who was giving orders from the deck, attracted our attention by his vociferous commands. When things went contrary to his ideas he would hop up and down a la jumping jack, whirl around like a top and fairly foam at the mouth, in his frantic efforts to get out an oath ponder- ous enough to suit the occasion. At last, when the boat was secured to the dock, he vigorously mopped his sweltering brow and strode the deck with the self-satis- fied air of a successful commander. The antics of the little captain made me think of Shakespeare's "Man, proud man, Drest in a little brief authority, Most ignorant of what he's most assured. His glossy essence, like an angry ape, Plays such fantastic tricks before high Heaven As make the angels weep." Measure for Measure — Act II, Scene 2. Just below Bingen is a little oblong island on which is a lonely looking tower where, according to tradition, an aged bishop, who had fled from his enemies for safety, was devoured by rats. It is known as the Mausethurm or Mouse Tower. Perhaps the story was the evolution of some disordered brain rather than a verified tradition of ancient times. Across the river from Bingen is the great national monument known as the Guardian of the Rhine or the Wacht am Rhein, as the Germans affectionately and proudly call it. EUROPEAN TRAVEL 159 On a high buff, far above the river, can be seen this grand structure. On a granite pedestal of mammoth proportions stands a classic figure of Germania holding aloft her right hand while her left rests on her sword of defence. The vineyards that here drape the declivity, down to the water's edge, produce the richest wine grapes in the country. When at table on the steamer the steward will graciously call your attention to the various wine-grow- ing sections along the river and at the same time bring forth a bottle which he says holds wine from the very vineyards you are passing. This announcement was of course a bid to purchase a souvenir bottle or two. We did not seem to catch on to the idea, however, but allowed him to think we believed every word he said. When coming out of the salon or dining room the charges for meals were collected. It so happened that the very steward, who failed to sell us the wine, was the collector at the door. I handed him a large treasury note and when I counted my change I noticed it was about twenty Marks short. I called his attention to it. He appeared very indignant that I should doubt his ability or honesty, but when I told him I knew German money and could not be deceived in that way, he reluct- antly handed me the proper change. This attempt to defraud me was, no doubt, an act of revenge on his part because I did not see fit to purchase his wine. THE LORELEI A little farther down the river is the famous rock of the Lorelei. It is said that the siren from her aerie would often lure wandering sailors to the dangerous 160 INCIDENTS OF rocks beneath her, where many of them found a watery grave. A German poet thus records the legend : Lo, yonder sits a maiden The fairest of the fair. With gold her garments glittering As she combs her wavy hair. The boatman feels his bosom With a nameless longing move. He sees not the gulf before him His gaze is fixed above. I believe o'er boat and boatman, In the end, the billows run, And 'tis this that with her singing By the Lorelei was done. I was much amused one day when I happened to come across my friend, Mr. Smith, on the after deck, trying to hold conversation with a young German. Neither could speak the other's language and it was very entertaining, to say the least, to watch the working hands and shoulders and the grotesque mouthings they made in their almost frantic efforts to convey ideas to one another. This continuous performance was carried on with ridiculous variations until a large crowd of the passengers had been attracted to the unusual exhibition of linguistic calisthenics. It soon became evident, how- ever, that an interchange of ideas between the represent- atives of America and Germany was bound to prove a failure and the crowd quietly and resignedly dispersed. The Rhine is not as large a river as the Hudson but it is far more interesting to the tourist on account of its THE GREAT STATUE OF THE REPUBLIC AT PARIS EUROPEAN TRAVEL 161 many historical associations. I have often sailed down the magnificent American river and enjoyed its natural scenery. When old Father Time, with his history-mak- ing facilities, shall have done, in an artificial way, for the Hudson as much as he has for the Rhine, the former will surpass in every respect the beauties of the great German river. COLOGNE The most notable monument of all Germany is, of course, the great Cathedral of Cologne. In many respects it rivals the splendor of St. Peter's at Rome. Built in pure Gothic style, it displays a type of archi- tecture that is strikingly grand. Once seen, the impres- sion is firmly fixed on the mind. All descriptions, so far heard, give but a faint idea of its magnificence. It must be seen to be appreciated. When I first looked upon the great Dom, as they call it there, I stood trans- fixed in amazement, while I tried to realize its greatness. Its two towering spires, higher than the Washington Monument, piercing the very clouds, seemed to challenge the listless infidel, while they fortified the faith of the devout Christian. A curious legend, handed down from the Middle Ages in reference to the plans for this great cathedral, is so unique that I will here relate an abridged version of it. The story goes that the Archbishop of Cologne wished his architect to draw plans for a magnificent church; in fact, the grandest that had ever been constructed. He told him he had sufiicient means for that purpose and wished him to spare no expense. To encourage him he spoke of the riches that were in store for him and how his name would go down in triumph to posterity. He 162 INCIDENTS OF reminded him of the praises of his countrymen and how popular he would become for all time. This little speech rather encouraged the architect to attempt the great undertaking and filled him with visions of future glory and renown. To the bishop he made answer and said, "My lord, your wishes will be fulfilled." He then went oflF to the shore of the classic Rhine where he sat down on the sands and became deeply absorbed in the great problem proposed by the bishop. He planned long and earnestly in every conceivable manner but never could arrive at a satisfactory con- clusion as to what the great edifice should look like or even how to commence its construction. One bright morning, while in deep contemplation on the vexatious problem, he was approached from behind by an old man of swarthy mien, wrinkled and spare in form, who touched him on the shoulder with an out- stretched bony hand. This act of unexpected familiarity caused the architect to start with a shudder and wonder whom the stranger might be. As he looked up at the old man's face he asked him his mission there. "I am here," he said, "to help you with the problem that so puzzles your mind and vexes your temper." With that he drew forth a wand with which he rapidly traced upon the sands the outlines of a magnificent cathedral, but as soon as the plans were drawn the waves of the Rhine swept them away. He renewed them again and again but as often as he did, they were obliterated by the on- coming waters. The bewildered architect many times sought to retain, in his mind at least, the mysterious and fast fleeting plans but he was never able to do so. At last in despair he EUROPEAN TRAVEL 163 asked the stranger if he would sell them to him. "I will pay you any price you ask," said he, "I will give you all I own." "I will give it to you," said the man, "your life will be considered most happy. Your desires will be fulfilled. However, in exchange for all this I will only want your soul." At the last sentence the architect trembled; his very frame shook like an aspen leaf. He then realized the fact that the stranger was no less a personage than Satan himself. Going back to his home the architect was stricken with a dangerous illness. He could not sleep, the wildest dreams racked his fevered brain. He was sorely tempted to sell his soul for the wonderful model, but he hesitated to surrender to the Evil One. The next morning, after a restless night, the architect was found at his accustomed place on the shore of the Rhine trying to recall the wonderful plans traced by the stranger. He could not remember them; try as he might. The continued and mighty strain, the result of his futile efforts, caused him to go off into a deep swoon from which he did not recover for a long time. When he came to himself he found the tempter again at his side, when he said to him: "I will accept your conditions." "To-morrow, at midnight," said Satan, "meet me on these sands and I will give you the plan of the proposed cathedral, then you must sign it with your blood." The architect, full of sorrow and greatly dismayed, returned to his humble home. His soul was fairly torn with remorse and the thoughts of eternal damnation. Not knowing what course to take he went to his con- 164 INCIDENTS OF fessor to whom he confided all. "You will commit no sin," said the priest, "if you deceive old Satan himself. Meet him at the river, accept from him the plans for the cathedral, grasp them suddenly from his hand and at the same time flash this relic before his wicked eyes." The bewildered man carried out the priest's instructions and when Satan saw a portion of the sacred wood of the true cross, he cried out, "I am conquered," and instantly fled. As he disappeared, a weird wail came back from the retreating form which plainly said, "You'll not gain anything for your treachery. Your name will not go down to posterity." Such is the legend that may gain some credence among the illiterate but which is looked upon by people in general as a very diaphanous bit of folk-lore. My impression of the great Dom was that its chaste and stately outlines could have been traced only by a hand highly skilled in the science of an ecclesiastical architecture far in advance of any ever before conceived. The interior of the church is grand beyond description and strictly in keeping with its Gothic exterior. The numerous chapels are wondrous works of art. At the rear of the main altar lie the remains of the Magi or Three Wise Men of the East, who visited the Infant Savior in the stable at Bethlehem. The casket itself is of gilded bronze, the front being of pure gold. It is opened on the feast of the Epiphany each year, when the three bodies can be seen lying side by side. A recent discovery has brought to light the fact that the architect of the wondrous Dom was Gerard of St. Frond. A paper dated 1257 tells us that the Chapter of EUROPEAN TRAVEL 165 the Cologne Cathedral gave a house to the architect Gerard to recompense him for his excellent work. NUREMBERG As I stood on the old stone bridge that spans the river Pegnitz, which divides Nuremberg into nearly two equal parts, I reflected on the antiquity of this ancient burg which has been in existence since the Eleventh Century. It was early a "City of the Empire" and is to-day one of the most important cities in Bavaria. Here the toys that delight the children of Christendom are made, and many other articles that reach the limits of civilization. Among the most interesting sections of Nuremberg is that in which is located the King's Summer Castle, known as the Kaiserburg. The tourist, if he cares to, will be shown through its baronial halls by a polite attend- ant. We were much interested as we inspected the deserted apartments, formerly scenes of so much festal gaiety and royal splendor. Here Barbarossa prepared himself for the Holy Wars. Sigismond and Charles V. were also familiar with this regal home as were many Bavarian monarchs of old. There is a lime tree in the court yard said to have been planted over eight hundred years ago by the Empress Kunigunde. We were shown a high wall over which a horseman leaped with his steed to the moat below, a distance of some eighty feet. Man and horse escaped injury and fled from pursuers who failed to overtake them. Eppelein von Gailingen, for that was his name, a brigand, a freebooter, in fact a sort of a Bavarian Dick Turpin, was captured after many futile efforts by the 166 INCIDENTS OF Nuremberg soldiers and confined in the prison near the Castle. One morning he was led out to execution and as the headsman was about to obey the order of the King, the captive asked one last favor which was a strange one for a man so near the confines of eternity. He spied his favorite horse standing with others in the prison yard and requested the privilege of bidding him a fond farewell. This was granted, as apparently no possible harm could come from it. The robber brigand, for such he really was, had no sooner placed his hands upon the horse's neck than he quickly swung himself into the saddle and made a dash for the ramparts, over which both safely went, to the utter astonishment of the soldiers and would-be executioner. CHAMBER OF TORTURE We visited the famous Chamber of Horrors which is also near the palace. It is surely well named, for I never could believe that such a collection of instruments of torture could be made or that the evil genius of man could invent such diabolical ways and means for inflict- ing agony on his fellow man. Instruments of torture, peculiar to different ages and nations, civilized and savage, meet the eye on every hand. Many thousands are in the collection, no two of them being alike. The most conspicuous of them all is per- haps the Iron Virgin, an apparent personification of all deviltry. She stands in the center of a great room on the ground floor, a fit, ferruginous deity to preside over her companions in cruelty. On close inspection I found her but a hollow mockery after all. Her cloak of iron, being laid open, displayed a lining bristling with polished EUROPEAN TRAVEL 167 spikes. When a victim was taken to her "heart" she relentlessly and firmly embraced him in such a manner that the spikes were driven into all parts of his body, even his very face and eyes. When the unfortunate had ceased to complain, the cloak was opened, and his lifeless body was allowed to drop into the river below, after being sliced by knives which it struck on its way down. Long legged copper boots were shown which, having been heated nearly red hot, prisoners were forced to put on and run around in. The deadly Russian knout hung on the walls. It consisted of a short, stout handle to which were attached several strips of strong black leather. These were knotted in several places, each knot being supplemented with steel burrs wickedly pointed. When looking at it, I could not refrain from thinking of the many poor serfs who had succumbed to its cruel strokes, laid on by the sturdy hand of some cowardly servant of the Czar. A cradle was there also. Yes, a genuine cradle, rockers and all. It was too large for a child and rather uncomfortable for an adult. About eight feet in length by three feet wide at the top, and narrowing to the bottom, it was built of heavy pine. Through its sides and bottom were driven sharp spikes about six inches in length, the points projecting into its cavity. When prisoners had committed some fault of discipline they were stripped, thrown naked into this cradle and rocked vigor- ously until the spikes had so mangled their flesh as to either cause lifelong deformity or a lingering and cruel death. To describe the endless variety of instruments of tor- 168 INCIDENTS OF ture displayed in that old museum would exhaust the reader's patience and perhaps provoke him to say some unpleasant things about the cruelty and cowardice of bygone days. During our Columbian Exposition the Managers wished to show these instruments, but could not get the loan of even a small portion of the collection, as no com- pany could be found willing to assume the risk of trans- portation. In the prison yard is an old, deep well, the bottom of which is connected with a secret passage which leads to the lower part of the town. Many prisoners of the guard house, near by, have made their escape through it. In olden times it was used for strategic purposes. Our hotel in Nuremberg was formerly a royal palace and is located on one of the main streets. Our room on the second floor was paved with vitrified brick of an odd design. The walls were thick and the windows nar- row. In fact all its fixtures and furniture were very an- tique, forcibly reminding us that we were then in the oldest city of Bavaria and one of the most ancient in Germany. AN ANTIQUE FIRE CO. As we were sitting near the window one pleasant even- ing we heard a great racket down the street and, looking out, beheld a sight that would make the angels smile. It was nothing more nor less than a fire company running to some real or imaginary conflagration. Six men of uncertain ages were rushing down the street and yell- ing for all they were worth. Attached to them, by means of a long rope, was a large platform wagon which they CASTLE GREGORY A memorial to our only son who was but shown to Earth and taken away EUROPEAN TRAVEL 169 were dragging along the street. On this odd looking vehicle was a tub which looked like the segment of a hogshead. This was furnished with a large hand pump which was to do duty at the fire. I was quite sure the flames would soon be squelched if yelling would do it. I had no serious idea that the exhibit was a sample of the fire department of Nuremberg but indulged in the thought that it might be a remnant of an ancient and honorable aggregation that existed in the days of yore. VII SWITZERLAND AFTER a sojourn of two weeks in Paris we left that gay metropolis for Switzerland. A pleasant ride of twelve hours brought us to Geneva near the eastern boundary of France. This thriving little city is beautifully situated on a lake of the same name and some- times known as Lake Lemain, at a point where the blue waters of the restless Rhone rush forth in a great tor- rent on their rapid course to the sea. At Geneva commences the wild mountain scenery so much enjoyed by tourists going to Lucerne. As we passed along through deep gorges and over rocky cliffs, expressions of wonder and awe among the passengers were frequent, sudden and sometimes boisterous. You could not blame them, for the panorama passing before us fairly defied any attempt at truthful description. I often wondered where painters got their ideas of varied and rich coloring in mountain landscapes, but when I beheld the gorgeous hues — purple, blue, red, emerald and in fact all the shades of the rainbow — ^that lit up the craggy peaks of the towering Alps, I realized that Nature her- self had taught them the lesson. The ancient town is famous for telescopes, watches and Calvin himself, not forgetting Voltaire and Rosseau. Berne was our home for one brief night. This being the capital of Switzerland makes it a city of great impor- tance to the natives. The bear being the national animal, EUROPEAN TRAVEL 171 its effigy is to be seen on almost every corner, in the parks and even in the hallways of the hotels ; and to make sure that bruin is not forgotten he is kept in luxurious style on the banks of the Aare, a river that flows through the city with the velocity of a mountain torrent. Interlaken, our next rest, is the Saratoga of Switzer- land. In summer it is thronged with people from all parts of the world. Being a health resort, at this time of the year, many invalids take advantage of the refreshing climate. Here the famous Jungfrau raises its peak near- ly 14,000 feet. On a bright day its top, covered with a mantle of eternal snow, can be seen from a great dis- tance. But two or three people have ever succeeded in reaching its summit on foot. Several have been maimed or killed in the attempt. Wood and ivory carving are the main industries of In- terlaken and here can be found the finest work of this kind. Allowing Interlaken to remain nestled between its mountain lakes, we started for Lucerne, the pride of all Switzerland. On our way we crossed the Alps by the famous Brunig Pass, our engine crawling up the precipit- ous mountain side by means of cog and pinion. All along, even to the summit, are little tents or cabins, pre- sumably shepherds' homes, built here and there on ledges of rock that would seemingly defy the climbing of a Rocky Mountain goat. Everybody visits the Rigi, or ought to, so we made the pilgrimage. It can be plainly seen from the city of Lu- cerne, as it is only fifteen miles away. Arriving at its base after a pleasant ride on the lake, we boarded the waiting train and were pushed by the engine to the summit along 172 INCIDENTS OF a cogged railway that rises one foot in every four. We feared at times that our car would stand on end, so steep were some of the grades. Once on the top, we exclaimed in the words of the inevitable small boy, "How's that for high?" We were nearly six thousand feet up. Disappointment met us here, as we could hardly see one another in the nebulous atmosphere. However, we consoled ourselves by humming the old refrain, "Wait till the clouds roll by." Presently an accommodat- ing zephyr from the direction of old Pilatus swept away the unwelcome clouds, and behold, down in the far-off valley of Lucerne, lay the beautiful azure lake, dotted with busy craft. Around it arose, in all their majestic glory, the snow clad Alps with the purple skies beyond — a scene never to be forgotten. RIDING THROUGH THE ALPS As we could not always enjoy this beautiful region we journeyed on to Milan where we arrived in the evening. This last stage of our route was the most interesting and remarkable of all. Taking the St. Gothard train we tra- versed the Alps and shooting through scores of tunnels we rattled on until -sye reached the famous St. Gothard. This is nine and one quarter miles long and half an hour was consumed in passing through it. The noise of the train and the echoes, as we rushed along in the darkness, reminded us of a terrific hailstorm with every stone as big as a butternut rattling on the roof of our car. The heat, gases and fuliginous vapors were very oppressive. Just before reaching this great tunnel the railroad makes six complete circles, winding around and going through the mountains. We noticed one little white church far EUROPEAN TRAVEL 173 up in the Alps that we passed three times while we were going along. The first time we passed it, it was far above us, the next time it was some distance below and the third time we passed, it was still farther below us. This circumstance fairly illustrates the winding way of our course. Emerging from the upper tunnel we could see far beneath the tracks we had traversed a few minutes before. Instead of making direct headway we followed the work of the most stupendous railway engineering ever before accomplished. TOMB OF ST. CHARLES BORROMEO Coming from under the mountains we passed along the beautiful Italian lakes and finally reached the great city of Milan. Here, of course, we visited the famous ca- thedral. Its magnificence I will not attempt to describe, as it has so often been written of. We ascended to the roof where we could admire its unique and unrivaled architecture and from which we obtained a comprehen- sive view of the historic city. Before leaving the noble edifice we traversed its spacious isles. Among the many objects of interest we were shown was one of the nails which, it is said, fastened Christ to the cross. Descend- ing into the crypt we saw the sepulchral chapel of St. Charles Borromeo. It is octagonal in form, the walls being covered with heavy plating of solid silver which is ornamented with high rilievos and is fairly hidden from view by a large number of rich, votive offerings of the admirers of the saint. This chapel is said to have cost over $800,000. The attendant lets down the front of the outer covering and there, inclosed in an inner casket of rock crystal and gold, can be seen the body of the saint. 174 INCIDENTS OF clothed in his pontifical robes with face uncovered. The body was successfully embalmed, as the features, although darkened with age, remind one of a person in a deep, and peaceful sleep. On his finger is still the episcopal ring and by his side lies his golden pastoral staff or crosier, ornamented with a profusion of precious stones. On the wall just above the casket is to be seen a por- trait which was painted during his life. In the features of the remains, even at this day, can be distinguished a complete likeness of that depicted above. St. Charles was born October 5, 1538, in the castle of Arona upon the borders of Lake Major, fourteen miles from Milan. He was the son of Gilbert Borromeo, Count of Arona and Margaret of Medicis. The family of Bor- romeo is one of the most ancient in Lombardy. St. Charles died November 4, 1584. He has therefore been dead about 324 years, and his body is to-day in a good state of preservation ; so much so, as I have stated above, that the features are readily recognizable, a very remark- able circumstance when we consider how rapidly a body decays after the spirit has left it. As St. Charles was one of the most remarkable men of his time or, in fact, of any age, I feel it will interest my readers if history be briefly repeated. On account of his extraordinary talents and studious application he rapidly advanced in learning and wisdom and soon reached the goal of his most ardent desire — the priesthood. He ad- vanced from one dignity to another until he was made Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. So pure was his life and so strict, he was called the model for pastors and the reformer of ecclesiastical discipline. As good as he was, he was often maltreated by his inferiors EUROPEAN TRAVEL 175 and those who were jealous of the esteem in which he was held. He always bore those insults and attacks with wonderful humility and fortitude. Instead of seeking re- venge, he pleaded for the pardon of his enemies and even went so far as to do them a kindness when possible. On the 26th of November, 1569, a villian posted himself at the door of the chapel in the archbishop's palace whilst the prelate and his family were at their devotions. The assassin, who was about five or six paces away, discharged at him a blunderbuss loaded with a large bullet and small shot. At the report, every one stood up in the utmost confusion and consternation, but the saint, without stir- ring from his place, made them a sign to kneel down again, and finished his prayer with the same tranquility as if nothing had happened. Imagining himself mortally wounded, he lifted up his hands and eyes to God and of- fered his life to him. But after the prayer was finished, rising up, he found that the large ball had only struck upon his cassock near the dorsal vertebrae or the small of the back, without penetrating the clothing. Some of the small shot had pierced his clothes, but stopped at the skin and left small swellings and discolorations which re- mained to the time of his death. St. Charles earnestly pleaded for the life of the assassin but the government ordered him beheaded. St. Charles ate very sparingly and only the coarsest food when on his mission through the villages of Levantine, Bregno and Riparie, subject to the Swiss cantons of Uri, Switz and Undrewald; for the see of Milan is extended in the Alps as far as Mount St. Gothard. The saint traveled through snows and torrents and over rocks which were almost inaccessible, having iron spikes on his shoes 176 INCIDENTS OF to climb them ; suffering with cold, hunger and continual weariness. Large legacies which were left to him he gave over to the church or to the deserving poor. What a contrast is the life of St. Charles Borromeo to some of the so-called dignitaries of the present day. A man of royal blood, high position and transcending talents, he was humble, charitable and magnanimous to the highest degree. He was ever anxious for the welfare of his diocese and for all under his jurisdiction ; rich, poor or unfortunate. He had no cronies and associated with no cliques. All were equally welcome to his friendship and paternal advice. He sought no trivial amusements, nor did he leave his people for his own pleasure under the pretext of a "much needed rest." The Lenten days ever found him at his post of duty, encouraging the devo- tions of that holy season. He would listen to no idle stories detrimental to members of his flock. If such tales were brought him he would demand that the accused be heard before he would render a decision. His love for God's lowliest creatures proved him an ideal Christian. He would not allow a bird or the smallest quadruped to be wilfully harmed by hunters seeking cruel sport. Would that many of his like governed the church militant of our day and generation. THE LAST SUPPER After leisurely viewing the great Cathedral and its many priceless treasures, Mrs. Doyle and I went over to see the famous fresco of the Last Supper, the creation of Leonardo da Vinci. This truly great man was born in 1452 at Vinci, a fortified village in the Florentine terri- tory near Empoli, from which his father's family derived EUROPEAN TRAVEL 177 its name. He died in 1519. Like Michael Angelo he was a man of wonderful and diversified talents. Consid- ering the range of his speculative as well as that of his practical powers, he seems certainly the man whose genius has the best right to be called universal of any who ever lived. In the fine arts he was the most accom- plished painter of his generation and one of the most bril- liant scholars that the world has ever produced. He was also a distinguished sculptor, architect and musician. The famous fresco of the Last Supper was painted on the refectory wall of the convent of Santa Maria della Grazie which is but a few steps from the great cathe- dral. Leonardo consumed ten years at this work. The picture is now but a ruin of what it was. The combined destruction of time and dampness has since been accel- erated by the vandalism of men, until the original has almost disappeared, especially as to the colors. The out- lines, however, are suificiently plain to emphasize the former magnificence of the great work. Many artists from different parts of the world were there making copies of the fresco and some of their work showed great artistic skill. We were importuned by the painters to buy, but the price being as high as the pictures were grand, we deferred negotiations until a future visit. BEAUTIFUL LUCERNE In the midst of "war and rumors of war" it is oft a consoling change to reflect on peaceful portions of the world, countries not harassed by contending foes or threatened by death-dealing armies. Such a place, just now, is Switzerland, the home of the happy mountaineer and the contented law-abiding Tyrolese.* * Written duringf our war with Spain. 178 INCIDENTS OF The most interesting city in this delightful portion of the globe is Lucerne, the queen of the Alpine lakes. No European visitor should consider his tour complete with- out a sojourn in this ancient and beautiful city. It had its origin in the 14th century, and was then surrounded by walls and battlements, most of which still remain in a fair state of preservation. Quaint old bridges, built hundreds of years ago, are still in use. Many ancient structures of odd architectural design form a pleasing contrast with the more modern buildings. In the middle of the River Reuss, the outlet of Lake Lucerne, on which the city is situated, is an old octagonal lighthouse which, in ancient times, displayed from its pinnacle a lantern or "lucerna." That gave to the city its name. This lighthouse or tower is now used as a shop where souvenirs and curios are sold. It is ap- proached from the mainland by an old covered chapel bridge, the interior of which is decorated with mytholog- ical frescoes of most weird and fantastic designs. This city is well supplied with hotels for the accommo- dation of summer visitors. Although but 20,000 inhabi- tants make it their permanent home, it has over fifty hotels and "pensions" or inns. Across the lake from the city looms up the great Mount Pilatus. It was thus named from an ancient tra- dition which relates that after Pilate had allowed the crucifixion of Christ, he fled in remorse to this lofty mountain where he remained for some time and after- wards smothered his grief in the crystal depths of Lake Lucerne. The Glacier Mills, the wonder and pride of geologists, are shown to the visitor in the suburbs of the city. In EUROPEAN TRAVEL 179 ages long gone, immense boulders were carried down the mountain's side by the glaciers and, when they reached the plains, were whirled around so long and continuously that great holes were worn in the hard bed rock. Some of these bowl-shaped cavities are over 30 feet in depth and about 20 feet in diameter. The great boulders, rounded to complete spheres some ten or twelve feet in diameter, are to be seen in the bottom of the cavities worn by them. The great Lion of Lucerne, fully as famous as the Lion of St. Mark's in Venice, is one of the wonders of the city. It is near the garden of the Glacier Mills. Carved from the rock, high up in the mountain's side, the magnificent form reposes with all the dignity inher- ent to the king of beasts. It was designed by Thorwald- sen the famous Danish artist, and executed in mammoth proportions by skilled workmen. It represents a wounded lion protecting the emblem of Switzerland, and commemorates the men of the Swiss Guard who were slain while defending the Tuileries in Paris on the tenth day of August, 1792. The ancient twin-tower church of St. Leodegar is located on rising ground near the shore of the lake, and possesses a fine organ and a magnificent chime of bells. The music of the latter rivals in sweetness the famous bells of Shandon on which I had the honor of intoning, "Home, Sweet Home." The cemetery surrounding this church is renowned for its beauty. It is a veritable garden in itself, adorned with white gravel walks, garnished with well-trimmed boxwood and rare plants. Numerous magnificent mauso- leums greatly contribute to the solemn grandeur of this 180 INCIDENTS OF silent city of the dead. No one seems to have been for- gotten, no matter how long buried. Every grave is as carefully looked after as if made but yesterday. The taste here displayed in cemetery ornamentation, might be well imitated in our own land. I found the Swiss a most hospitable people and, after having sojourned in Lucerne for a fortnight, I was loth to leave it. The people are industrious and thrifty. There are no paupers or millionaires in Lucerne. The prosperous help the struggling and no cases of indigence are beheld as in other countries. All children must receive an education. Parents neglecting or refusing to send them to school are fined, and if the parent persist in his refusal, he is punished by imprisonment. If such laws were in force in Syracuse, it would keep our Board of Education pretty busy; in fact, there would be no time for politics. FIN AND FEATHER BATTLE In Lucerne we stopped at a hotel called the Waage or the Balances. I suppose the latter name was given it for the reason that a large market is situated just beneath it, and the weighing scales used there may have sug- gested the name. It is a very fine up-to-date hotel and kept in the best manner. While here we were much amused by a novel exhibition. The river Reuss, an out- let of Lake Lucerne, flows directly past the rear of the Waage. In the afternoons we frequently fed the wild ducks and fishes with which the river abounds. It was very interesting and exciting to witness the strife be- tween the feathered and finny tribes to capture the frag- ments of bread thrown to them. The river here is EUROPEAN TRAVEL 181 about twenty feet deep and the water is so clear that the gravelly bottom can be plainly seen. This favorable con- dition rendered it very easy to note every movement of the fish in their battle with the ducks. Sometimes a large fish would catch a duck by the foot and try to drag it under the water, but the duck, by spreading out its wings, deftly outwitted the fish. When the fish were not too large the ducks would try to capture them for a feast. My friend, Nicholas G. Peters, who enjoyed the sport with me, also proved himself an adept at mountain climb- ing and a scientific mariner on the lakes. He was so continually on the go that I was almost forced to be- lieve he was about to solve the vexatious problem of per- petual motion. AN INCIDENT AT THE WAAGE In this hotel the dining room is very large. During mealtime the guests are entertained by an excellent or- chestra which adds another item of cheerfulness to the pleasant surroundings. An apparently trivial, but, to me, a significant incident took place which charmingly illustrated the well known cordiality of the Swiss. A few years ago, during a visit to Lucerne, I met Adolph Aueron, Professor of Languages. He invited me to his home and introduced me to his interesting little family, with whom I spent a very pleasant evening. On my last visit I called on the family but the professor was absent. Disappointed at not meeting him, I returned to my hotel, where I arrived just in time for dinner. When the meal was about half over I was summoned to the door where a young, fair-haired lass of some fifteen summers 182 INCIDENTS OF was waiting with a large bouquet of roses. She said her father had sent them with his compliments and regretted very much that he was absent when I called. I immedi- ately led the young lady to our table at the farther end of the room, told her to place the flowers in the center of the table and invited her to join us at dinner. Our party of eight, which occupied a large table, compli- mented her on the beautiful gift and when I told them the occasion of it, the social customs of her native land formed the subject of a very pleasant conversation around the festive board. Not to be outdone by the chivalry of the Swiss mountaineers, I gallantly escorted the young miss across the ancient bridge that spans the rapid waters of the Alpine Reuss, and left her safe at her father's door. I have visited Lucerne four different times, (in 1882, 1889, 1893 and 1903) and on each occasion I found it the most delightful resting place in my whole European tour. The lofty Alps, perennially snowcapped, standing guard as it were, around the bright blue waters of the mountain lakes and holding eternal vigil over the ancient little city that so cozily nestles at their feet, profoundly impress the beholder with the strange sublimity and awful grandeur of the scene. As a pleasure resort, Lucerne is not surpassed by any in the world. People from all countries make it the Mecca of their summer tours. To behold the gay equip- ages and superb costumes of the pleasure-seeking throngs one would think, for the time being at least, that life was really and truly worth living, especially amid such pleasures and in such charming surroundings. No tourist, however hurried, should fail to visit lovely EUROPEAN TRAVEL 183 lakeside Lucerne, the gem of the Alps. I was so well pleased with my visits there that I photographed many points of interest. VIII IRELAND APPROACHING Ireland, the voyager is profound- ly impressed with the grandeur of her emerald mountains, skirted with plains of richest ver- dure. Encircled with lofty, gray and purple cliffs, garn- ished with foamy crests of old ocean's stormy waters, she certainly deserves the title: "Gem of the Sea." Queenstown harbor, which was formerly known as the Cove of Cork, is the largest in the world. The com- bined fleets of all nations could there meet and be well cared for during any tempest that might occur. The City of Cork, which is at the head of navigation on the river Lee, is active, enterprising and up to the times in modern improvements. As we approached the city "The Bells of Shandon, That sound so grand on The pleasant waters of the river Lee," were pouring forth their sweet melodies across the silv- ery waters of the silent river. The ancient city wore an air of contentment, quite at variance with most of our American towns. The streets of Cork are very irregular and innocent of geometrical precision. St. Patrick's Street, the main thoroughfare, is wide but very crooked. It must have developed from the aimless trail of prehistoric fauna. It >! _ (T> 2 fD s-* H ii5- M o — . M j3 n 3 O O IK! > b "' H 3 f^ r 1— 1 o en 2 i^ 3 q O cro ^