pi .A'ft^ c^i^ RRIS ILLIPS Hotel Albeaarle, (Patronized by Poyalty.) PICCADILLY, LONDON- CO < CO HH UJ Pi$ QC tJ.. ;^ O ^:: 1- g -31 § O O tM ^=^ ^ O H -si >- i ra oc 1 GQ P < ! Pi^ DC ti< H DQ M —J ® P — # ,^3h^HIS palatial hotel is fitted up in the most luxur- ^ ious style, and is one of the finest and most select hotels in Europe. Cuisine and wines of the highest class. The salle a manger is open to non-residents. Telegraphic Address, " Hotel Albemarle," London. Guide to London, an attractive little book of 50 pages, sent free of charge on application to the proprietor of the Albemarle. Address A. L. VOOEIv. j^m^rieap l^iije. UNITED STATES MAIL STEAICEBS PARIS, - - 10,500 Tons. NEW YORK, 10,500 " BERLIN, - - 5,491 Tons. CHESTER, - 4,770 " New Yoik, Southampton .^'London. FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $70 to $650, According to steamer and Location of accommodations. Note.— Round Trip Ticketb issued at reduced rates, and the return portion can, if desired, be used by RED STAR LiINE from Antwerp to New York or Philadelphia. Inlern^lionii.1 D^vi^^^Iion Co., GENERAL AGENTS, G BOWLING GREEN, New York. THE GORDON HOTELS arE: LONDON. The Grand Hotel. Hotel Metropole and the Whitehall Rooms. The First Avenue Hotel. BRIGHTON. Hotel Metropole and the Clarence Rooms. EASTBOURNE. Burlington Hotel. RYDE. Royal Pier Hotel. MONTE CARLO. Hotel Metropole. CANNES. Hotel Metropole. TJ qt6l Vigtqriaq .•XWXWNXNXsW n\X\W NORTHUMBERLAND AVE., CHARING CROSS, LONDON, W. C ROOMS FOR ARBITRATIONS AND MEETINGS. BANQUETING-ROOM FOR PRIVATE PARTIES. N E of the most magnificent Hotels in Europe. Most centrally situate for all London attractions — close to WestminsterAbbey, the Houses of Parliament, and the principal Theatres 500 ROOMS SUPERBLY FURNISHED. COMPLETELY LIGHTED BY ELECTRICITY. PASSENGER LIFTS TO EVERY FLOOR TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS VICTOR I OLA LONDON Manager. G. REEVES SMITH. HOTEL WINDSOR, VICTORIA STREET, ^?^^estrrainster. LONDON, S- W. Convenient and central location ; European or Annencan system ; tl^e only l^otel In London witl> TurbisI? and oti^er batiks ; elevators ; electrically lia^ted tl^roual^out, day and nlal^t. J. R. CLEAVE a CO., PROPRIETORS. Bristol • Hotel, BURLINGTON GARDENS, LONDON, W., ( ) tBet* Bond Street and Regent Street, and near Piccadilly) FURNISHED WITH EVERY POSSIBLE COMFORT AND MODERN IMPROVEMENT. NEW HYDRAULIC LIFT TO ALL FLOORS. UGH TED THROUGHOU T BY ELEC TRICI TY. LARGE OR SMALL SUITES OR SINGLE ROOMS. THE R ESTAURA NT Cork'street ^sopento % -^^.^^ Non residents) THE HIGH CHARACTERS OF THE WINES AND CUISINE HAVE OBTAINED GREAT REPUTATION. Pfllmeisloii Restpuiciil, BISHOPSGATE STREET AND OLD BROAD ST., LONDON, (CITY) E.G. ^Plrje Uaroe-sl', Cne Flooi' pesfeaurant in thje World (Cover-irjo upwards of ar) ^cre). LUNCHEON, OYSTER AND AMERICAN BARS. CCi\)\7\\\)^* /7//V//V(?, GRILL AND SMOKING ROOMS. : V ^ O* HAIR DRESSING SALOON, BA THS, etc. : CIGAR and WINE DEPOTS {Wholesale and Retail.) V^ORTHY OF A VISIT. SIJVLPSON'S (LIMITED) - Divan Tavern, I03 STRAND, opposite Exeter Hiall, . . - LONDON. i^ OOHE premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of \9 fifty years, which still retains its supremacy for being- the house to get the best English Dinner in London at a moderate price. There is also a magnificent Ladies' Dining Room where ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs. Private rooms for large or small parties. Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton specially cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of professed Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables Matured wines and spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom. E. W. CATHIE, MANAGING DIRECTOR. Y0RI\jH0iJSE FAMILY HOTEL, BATH, ENGLAND. ALSO AT S. YinceDt's Rock Hotel, Clifton, Bristol, EoglaDd. V_, HIS favourite First Class Establishment possesses many ^ local advantages, being close to the General Post and Telegraph Offices, and also very near the Assembly Rooms, the Victoria Park, the Royal Crescent, and all the most attractive parts of the City. The Hotel contains numerous Suites of Elegant Apart- ments, and is under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, who has had many years' experience in hotel management. For Tariff, which is revised and moderate, address E. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. LARGE ROOM FOR WEDDING BREAKFASTS, DINNERS, PUBLIC MEETINGS, <&c. -^^^- ^ HOTEL BINBA, 11 rtj.e de L'Echielle, AVENUE DE L'OPERA. PARIS. % Y^Ap(3)E s^nd gmall apartments; lift ^^ "^^^^ each floor ; ginokind and drawing- room ; bathroom on each fXoov \ table d'hote, 6 francg, from 6 to 8 o'clock, aii separate tables ; restaurant a la carte. ADVANTAGEOUS ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH FAMILIES WINTERING IN PARIS. ' Electric Liglnt all over tine Hotjise. CHARLES BIN DA, PROPRIETOR, Late with Delmonico, New York. ^M^ PiEMSTIUi 37, Rue Cambon, 37, PA^IS. BOULEVARD DBS CAPUCINE3 En face les jardins dii Ministere de la Justice IVIAISON 13 E l^r ORDRE WULLSCHLEGER & G'^ J'/^ OPRIE T A IRES. RESTAURANT TABLE D'HOTE CAI.ORIFERE BAINS ASCENSEUR TELEPHONE ELE6TRIG1TE PARIS. HOTEL PARIS. METROPOLE, 6 RUE CASTIGLIONE. 6 ^[^IS first-class J^otel, situated in the best part of the metropolis, opposite the f^otel Continental and the Tuileries (gardens, is highly recommended for comfor-t, cuisine, moderate charges and sanitary arrangements; ©tis American elevator. X. §IbVA.f^I, f^roprietor. LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY THE OLD ROUTE !N THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS' FAVORITE. IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE. SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM lilVEKPOOIi (Lime Street Station) to liONDON (Euston Station) under FOUR AND A-HALP HOURS to OL.ASOO\V (Central Station), in FIVE AND THREE-QUARTER HOURS. QUEENSTOU'lV to L.ONDON via Dublin and Holyhead, in FIFTEEN HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES. Baggage Checked Tlirougli from New York to Lon- don, both via QUEENSTOWN and LIVERPOOL.. At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses from Landing Stage, and Special Trains from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station and Hotel. NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, Liverpool, the best and largest— the hotel for Americans. SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London when re- quisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from America. Elegant Vestibule l>ra\ving-Room Cars without extra -charge. Compartments with lavatories, and private saloon and family carriages for parcies without extra charge. Sleeping Cars with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth in addition 10 first-class fares. DINING- CARS on principal trains and "American Specials." Luncheon Raskets at the principal Stations. In LONDON, Family Omnibuses can be obtained ; and the Enston Hotel (at the Station), noted for its Cellar and its French Cuisine, will be found mos" comfortable. THE LONDON AND NORTH AVESTERN RAILAVAY has NOT abolished Second Class Carriages; passengers to whom economy is an object, but who do not wish to travel Third Class, can combine comfort with economy by traveling Second Class by this line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third Class (Carriages on all trains except the Irish Mails to and from Dublin. The Company's Agents. Mr. \¥. STIRLING, at Queens- town, and Mr. FRED. IV. THOMPSON, at Liverpool, meet the American Steamers on arrival, and secure omnibuses, seats, saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give general information. THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris, and principal stations in England, Scotland, Ireland, AVaies, and Continent of Europe. TICKETS, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels can be obtained from the Company's Canadian Agent, Mr. D. BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., Montreal, and Mr. C. A. BARATTONI, GenU Agent for the U.S. and Canada, 8 52 Broadway, near Union Square, New York. G. P. NEELE, E. MICHEL, Superintendent of the Line. Foreign Traffic Superintendent. London, Euston Station. /^ rriKtr\i a\7 /> n aa G, FINDLAY, Gen I Manager. L s uora RAILWAY. A. THORNE, Formerly at H. B. Claflin St Co.'s, New 9ork, American Representative in England, Isondon, ^l^atl^am i^^ Do\?ef I^ailway, VICTORIA STATION, LONDON, S. W., ^ TTENDS the arrival of the principal steamships at (2/A. Liverpool and Southampton, and arranges for Special Saloon Carriages upon either the North Western and Midland Railways from Liverpool, or by the South Western Railway from* Southampton to London, and thence to Dover from Victoria Station by the London, Chatham and Dover . Railway. From Dover to Calais (the shortest sea passage to France) by the magnificent S.S. " Calais-Douvres," "Em- press," '• Victoria, " and '* Invicta," owned and controlled sole- ly by the London, Chatham and Dover Railway Company. A. THORNE secures Private Deck Saloons, and from Calais to Paris and other prominent points Special Saloons and Sleeping Cars as required. TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: ' CALDOVER,'' LONDON. The London, Chatham and Dover Company's trains run from Victoria, St. Paul's and Holborn Stations through the prettiest and most picturesque parts of Kent, and passengers have the privilege of stopping over at Rochester to visit the Cathedral and the Castle, and at Canterbury to view the Cathedral (containing the tomb of the martyr Thomas a Becket), and other places of interest. o'nEii-i:,'s SIXTH AVENUE, 20th to 21st ST. NEW YORK, IMPORTERS AND RETAILERS OF Fine Millinery, Dry Goods, Ladies', Misses' and Children's Cloaks and Suits, GENTLEIVIEN'S FURNISHINGS. FINE CHINA, GLASSWARE, etc. (&ur (glaif drier department Has facilities for handling orders by mail or express that makes shopping at a distance a pleasure, guaranteeing perfect satisfaction to the customer, or money refunded. Through this I)epart??ient we issue, FREE OF CHARGE {to out of town residents only), semi- annually, April I St and September ist, a HAND SO MEL V ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE, fully describing a7id illus- treating the many lines of goods in our establishment. SEiVD FOR A COPY. H. O'NEILL & CO. 6th Avenue, 20th to 21st Street, NEW YORK. Xakota 4{otel michigan boulevard and thirtieth street, Ghicago. ABSOLtlTeLV FIF^e-PROOF. Situated or) Chicago's Fashjionable AIBGRKJAD ADD 'boulevard, coverjient fco the cerjtre eUROPGAD * of* tlje city, all tljeatres, sbjops, etc. PLAn$. : : Especially adapted for tourists. ^ C!!uisige ar)d service ugsurpassed. ^ ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. JAMES R. KEENAN. manager. P t^ ABROAD AND AT HOME PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS MORRIS PHILLIPS EDITOR OF TME HO]MK JOURISTAX. NEW YORK NEW YORK Paris Washington Chicago London \ Copyright 1893, BY MORRIS PHILLIPS* THE ART PRESS, IDEMPSEY & CARROLLf 36 EAST 1 4TH STREET, NEW YORK. CONT ENTS PAGE Preface, by Hon. A. Oakey Hall, ... 5 GREAT BRITAIN. London on Wheels, . . . . . ii London Hotels, ..... 26 A Few Boarding Houses, .... 46 Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, 49 Railway Travelling in England, ... 59 The Crypt of St, Pauls, .... 67 The Queen's Mews, .... 70 The Finest Square in London • • • 73 Hampton Court Palace, . . . . 81 London Oddities, .... 87 Poverty and Charity in England, , . 97 Margate, . . . . . 100 Two Brighton Hotels, .... 108 A Visit to Bleak House, . . . .111 Bath and its Attractions, . . . . 116 Takin* Notes in Edinboro' Town, . . .120 The Burns Monument, .... 127 Crossing the Channel . . . .133 PARIS. Paris Hotels, . . ... 134 Pensions of the First Class, . . . 144 The Restaurants of Paris, . . 148 The American Church in Paris, . . . 157 Musee du Louvre, .... 160 Musee de Luxembourg, . . . .164 Musee de Cluny, .... 166 Hotel des Invalides, ..... 168 Places of Interest and Time for Visiting Them, . 170 Pfaces of Public Amusement, . . . 171 Cab Fares, . . . . . 172 Tables of Coins, Measures and Distances, . . 173 CONTENTS— Continued, PAGE Ambassadors, Consuls, Bankers and Religious Services, 174 Versailles, . . . . . 175 En Passant, ..... 177 ITALY, By Sea to Italy, ..... 181 The Birthplace of Columbus, — Hotels, . . 189 SWITZERLAND. The Hotels of Lucerne, .... 196 THE UNITED STATES. Georgia — Savannah, The De Soto, . . . 200 Thomas ville, . . , . . 203 A New Southern Resort, . . . .210 Florida — A Cuban City, (Key West), . . 216 St. Augustine, . . . , . 225 About Tampa, . . . . 228 California — Monterey, ..... 232 Santa Cruz, ..... 241 Pasadena ..... 249 Los Angeles, . . ... 254 "The California" in San Francisco, . 258 Salt Lake City, ..... 262 Saratoga Springs, . . . . . 265 . Adirondack Mountains, .... 268 Tne Thousand Islands, . . . 271 Niagara Falls, . . . . . 273 Atlantic City, . . . . « 275 Chicago and Its Hotels, .... 278 Railway Travelling in America, . , . 288 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 1893. Index to Chapters, .... 291 WINTER RESORT GUIDE, 1893-94. Index to Chapters, .... 343 PREKACE. A continuous residence in London of eight years has satisfied me that precisely such a book, so far as it relates to that city, which my friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed. That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even to readers who have never been tourists thither, * ' goes without saying." Moreover, there are in these pages views, comments and sights of the "abroad "and **at home " additionally valuable ; therefore I gladly accept his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume of an American M. P. in the Parliament of Letters. He first broached his idea of papers about London at a capital luncheon, when meeting together there we discussed with palates, forks and wine glasses a tempt- ing menu during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the top of the historic St. James's street. We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, and I doubt not, that every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal. When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the inviting shadow of the Northwestern Railway station hotel, that is flanked by two smaller inns, with its centre pierced by several taverns, or direct from Southamp- 6 PREFACE, ton at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a score of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, that tourist's earliest question will be, which hospitable carava7iserai shall I patronize ? His second question will concern his vehicular desires for transportation by cab, 'bus or railway.. Other quer- ies will suggest themselves regarding the **B[ow,"the ''Where," the ''Which" and the " Why " of his new London surroundings. With this volume on shipboard en route : or in railway carriage i7i transitu, the tourist will already possess answers in his mind to those queries or similar ones respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow ; and will not be at the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of con- testant "cabbies," or of the shady sharpers, who throng railway platforms. , . - Once well housed in any of the places herein men- tioned, and once understanding, by the aid of the en- suing pages, how to get about in. the vast metropolis — wherein one may ride sixteen miles, from extreme north to a suburban south,, and fourteen miles from west to east without quitting payed and lighted streets, or the continuity of habitations — a traveler's eyes and ears will be all the Mentors he will require. Of so-called guide books (of which class this is not), there are in London and elsewhere abroad confusing scores, but the average tourist ought to shun guide- books as he .would a Bradshaw, unless he loves char- ades, puzzles and conundrums. Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his footing, the child will walk confidently. This volume PREFACE, 7 serves to give the person who arrives in London or Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In the parlance of the race course, it is the ** starter." On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and learn the points of compass; because all enquiries about the "■ Where " in London hinge on those. The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will be found as valuable as they are piquant. He tells of certain trips (and tips) on top of a 'bus ; he vividly de- scribes how the best way for exploring London is to ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses — devoting days to the task, or rather pleasure — and when, as street after street is passed, reading their names, which are always sign-affixed to the turn — a con- venience even for residents which, in late, years, is strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality and prominent buildings and often-referred-to neighbor- hoods become fixed in an observer's mind for future uses of memory. I learned to know London "like a book " — as common phrase goes : and, I therefore fully appreciate how much this book will serve to teach new tourists how to begin to learn London ; how much it will revive pleasant memories in former tourists ; how greatly it will instruct intending tourists ; how pleasantly it will amuse those who may not expect to practically patronize the hotels ; how well it will instruct as to London's vehicles and the wonders of the English city, which is practically seven- teen centuries older than New York. But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic volume. Not only is it inviting to Americans who wish 8 PREFACE. to know about the " across-the-ocean-f erry, " but it will be attractive to the countrymen of the M. P. who may travel or who would like to travel Westward, whither **the star of E-mpire takes its way." And also to the foreign tourist who may for only one week reside, in transitu to the States, upon the floating greyhoundish hotels which we call steamships. Especial attention must be invited to those pages which treat of pleasure resorts in the country of the author ; over which he has travelled extendedly under patriotic, as well as artistic impulses ; and — to coin a phrase — in which he brought a mental kodak to bear upon scenes and surroundings that, I blush to write it, are slenderly known to Americans. They rush abroad, tempted by the glamour which antiquity and the Past throw over foreign scenes, and they too often neglect the beauties and attractions of their own home. To such the **At Home" and the ** Abroad" may both, prove equally attractive in good and fit seasons. The pages in question will be inviting also, in the particular mentioned, to the foreigner who may be blase of Euro- pean attractions ; and who may be told by this volume that in Florida or in California he can find fresh Rivieras ; a replica of Carlsbad, in Saratoga ; and in Newport a companion to the Isle of Wight during summer, or to Sicily in the winter. Inasmuch as the old International Exhibition in Hyde Park during Prince Albert's time, or in Paris when Napoleon the third reigned, or in Vienna, or Brussels, made so many American tourists lovers of the fascina- tions of those great capitals ; perhaps the Exhibition at PREFACE. 9 Chicago will bring as many, or more European tourists to the fascinations proffered by scenes and places in the United States. To such foreign tourists this volume must prove as indispensable in the brain and heart sense as in a bodily sense will be the dressing case within the boundaries of excursions and travel. Moreover, the volume will in- dicate to them where to loiter, or to linger, or to take speed, where to abide with pleasure and comfort, and whither to go with the full or prudent purse for pur- chases and cheer. Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the wonders, the hotels, the coasts, and the traveling — es- pecially toward the Pacific ocean — are equally marvel- ous to English M. P. 's and foreign ladies and gentlemen of fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes and comforts. Merely ** turning the leaves," a phrase happily used as a heading for book notices by the author of "Kissing the Rod" in his World newspaper of London, will at once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied. A. OAKEY HALL. Lotos Club, March i, 1893. LONDON ON WHEELS. ABOVE GROUND, ON THE GROUND, AND UNDER GROUND. THE UNDER-GROUND LINES. How the five millions of people in London ' ' get about " to their daily avocations and homes is a mystery to those who have not made the subject a study. So I have gath- ered some information which will throw a little light on it. Let me start out with the statement that besides the ten large terminal stations, like the Euston Square and the Midland, both in Euston Road, there are four hundred and thirty railway stations within the metropolis, and the under-ground lines alone carry annually one hundred and twenty-five millions of passengers. The under- ground roads have been in existence for more than a quarter of a century, and are found to answer the pur- pose admirably of. relieving the over-ground traffic. They are convenient, cheap and comparatively quick, but not always pleasant. They now form a network of rails under the surface, and they have been a success from the first. They are a great engineering triumph, and may be said to have marked a new epoch in the history of London. The act permitting the tunneling was passed in 1853. Mr. John Fowler conducted the herculean labor, and underneath the streets of the busiest of cities, down where the soil was honeycombed with other works — gas pipes, water mains, drains and sewers — a railway line, costing up- 12 LONDON ON WHEELS. wards of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds per mile, was constructed almost without the knowledge of those above. For three years — from the spring of i860 to the beginning of 1863 — two thousand men, two hun- dred horses and fifty-eight engines were employed. When completed another difficulty presented itself, but was overcome by Mr. Fowler, who invented a locomotive which could be worked in the open air like an ordinary engine, but which, while in the tunnel, emits neither steam nor smoke, being so constructed as to be able to condense the one and consume the other. And yet, after a long ride in the under-ground, you may emerge with a headache. Of course the cars have to be lighted artificially, and they had not learned to use the electric light in them when I last was in London, in October, 1892. Gas is a poor substitute in such a place. You are forced to read your newspaper in a dim light, and the gas consumes much of the oxygen which gets into the tunnel from the stations, and from openings en route, which are made for the purpose. Yet you do not get about as quickly in the under- g^round as you would imagine. To avoid obstructions, and for mechanical reasons, the road takes a circuitous route and you frequently must ride a long way around to go a comparatively short distance. Millions of Londoners, who go direct from home to business, seldom get into an under-ground train. There are many over-ground lines built on brick arches which go to the suburbs, where rents are low ; for every En- glishmafi must have his own house, no matter how small, which he regards as his " castle." These trains are quick and cheap, and you are blessed with ample Hght and good air — at least as good as you can get in foggy, smoky London. On nearly all roads, whether on trunk lines, over- ground or undergroimd lines, there are first, second and LONDON ON WHEELS, 13 third-class cars, or " carriages," as they call them. Even some omnibuses that ply from the trunk line stations also have compartments for different classes ; your Englishman is very particular with whom he rides. Occasionally you meet with unpleasant companions in third-class carriages of local or suburban lines, but on through trains, say between Liverpool and London, the third-class carriages are comfortable, and the travelers of a respectable class. There is a great difference in the rates, and on a long journey it is worth consideration. First-class fare is almost double that of third-class. Second-class is neither one thing nor the other, and on some lines it has been abolished. It is an old saying that only princes, Americans and fools travel first-class. I don't care under which head they place me, so long as they place me in a first-class "carriage." That it is more comfortable is incontro- vertible, if you'll pardon such a big word. I say this in the face of what John vStuart Mill said, that the only reason he rode third-class was because there was no fourth. ELECTRIC LINES UNDER GROUND. The Forum in 1891 printed a very good description from the pen of Simon Sterne, of the new electric under- ground railway in London, and the Sunday Sun soon after had an elaborate article on the subject, which, with illustrations, occupied nearly a whole page. It is a quick and convenient means of locomotion, and to accomplish it was a work of wonderful engineering skill for which the inventor, Mr. Peter Greathead, can- not be praised too highly ; but the riding is by no means pleasant. 14 LONDON ON WHEELS. In a lift large enough to accommodate fifty passen- gers, yon descend a distance of eighty feet below the surface— part of the road running beneath the bed of the river Thames. The cars are small and fairly well lighted, but they have an unpleasant vibration, and although the air is not noticeably impure, there is an uncanny feeling with the knowledge that you are bur- rowing, as it were, in the bowels of the earth. The road, probably an experimental one, is only three miles long, extending south from **the monu- ment,*' in the city. It has not, thus far, proved a success pecuniarily, the cost of construction being so great, although no land was purchased except for the stations. HANSOMS AND FOUR-WHEELERS. Street cars are not needed in the city. Nearly all Lon- don streets are in as good condition for driving as our Central Park roads. There are eight thousand hansoms, four thousand four-wheelers, and two thousand omni- buses, so that you are not obliged to walk on account of the absence of cars. The four-wheeled cabs, or ''growl- ers," as they term them, are dilapidated, uncomfortable vehicles, which lack new springs, and are dirty both inside and out. The horses and the drivers are old and super- annuated ; they have all seen better days in private carriages or hansom cabs. You never take a four- wheeler if you are alone, or if the party consists of only two persons. You must engage one if you have a trunk, but if you are going to catch a train or boat you had better allow a half hour's margin. The London cab service is the best and cheapest in the world. I say this, notwithstanding that I remember hiring a cab in Key West, in the Gulf of Mexico, for a LONDON ON WHEELS. 15 dime. But snch cabs and such horses ! The rate in a hansom is sixpence per mile for one or two persons, no fare less than one shilling (twenty-five cents) ; by the hour, two-and-six (sixty-two cents). HOW THEY DRIVE. England, Italy and Gibraltar are the only places I know of where they drive to the left. English drivers say that by sitting on the right and driving to the left, they can better watch the hubs of approaching wheels, and thus prevent collisions. This left-hand driving many years ago educed the subjoined doggerel from a London poetaster : The rule of the road Is a paradox quite : If you keep to the left You are sure to be right. Several thousand members of the Metropolitan police force are engaged solely in attending to street traffic. Yet with all their vigilance, more accidents occur in Lon- don,, proportionately, than elsewhere. London drivers are polite and very civil to each other. If an obstruc- tion appears in front of a horse, or if for any reason he is obliged suddenly to slow up, the driver will imme- diately notify the driver in the rear by holding out hori- zontally his left arm ; and this sign is passed down from one driver to another, until the very end of the line of blocked vehicles is reached. A popular style of hansom has thick rubber tires, which add considerably to ease and comfort in riding. So little noise does the vehicle make in going over Lon- don's smooth-paved streets, that these cabs are provided with bells to warn pedestrians of their approach. The interior fittings include a holder for lighted cigars, a 16 LONDON ON WHEELS. box of matches, a small, bevelled mirror on either side of the cab, and a swinging rubber bulb attached to a rubber tube with a whistle at the end. You lightly press the bulb, and in this way whistle to Cabbie on top, who hears the summons above the roar of the streets, and responds by opening his trap door in the roof to receive instructions. The law does not permit the drivers of these well-ap- pointed and rather luxurious vehicles to charge more than do the drivers of the ordinary cabs ; but as the new hansoms cost the drivers more to hire, and as they are so much superior to the old style, you do not be- grudge paying a trifle extra. The drivers pay for these improved hansoms sixteen shillings (four dollars) per day, except during **the season," when the owners exact a guinea per day, about five dollars. The speed with which the London cabs are driven is something alarming — alarming to a stranger. In New York a cab driver has some little regard for the lives and limbs of pedestrians ; in Paris the horses are so poor and skeleton-like, and go so slow, that pedestrians have no fear whatever ; but in London you must look out wholly for yourself ; Cabbie will certainly not look out for you. If he is engaged by the course, he only has his destination in mind. London cab horses are the best horses in the world used for such a purpose. With rubber tires to the wheels, and the wheels going over clean and perfectly smooth roadways, there is nothing to obstruct their speed, and the animals go like the wind. They and their drivers seem to stand in fear of nothing but a policeman, and as London has good laws for regulating vehicles, and as these laws are strictly obeyed, the mere warning look of a policeman is re- spected and obeyed. London drivers are not so brutal nor so ill-tempered as New York drivers. They do not, as a rule, curse or swear at each other as ours do, who are always ready LONDON ON WHEELS. 17 with a foul oath. When a " block " occurs they take it good-naturedly and get out of it with the aid of the police as quickly as possible. Our drivers are only satisfied when they can take a mean advantage of their fellows, get in their way and put them to inconvenience. It may be Yankee "goaheadativeness," or the spirit of freedom and independence which prompts this show of ill-temper, but for my part I prefer the laughing, jocu- lar, good-tempered London driver. On my last visit to London, where I stayed one month, I saw a great many ''blocks," but heard only one quarrel between drivers, and that was not at all serious. They will, however, chaff each other, saying something like this: — *'Oh, comxC, pull yourself together there;" or '' I say, country, why don't you learn to drive before you come up to London?" The term "up to London," by the way, is put to singular use there. Although London is in the south of England, you always go *' up to London," if you even go from Carlisle, which is in the extreme north, on the Scotch border. STREET CARS. There are no street cars run by the trolley, storage or any other electric system ; no cable cars, no horse cars : not a track is laid for a surface road in ' * the city " proper. Many Americans leave London without ever seeing a street car of any kind, and yet in the metropolis one thousand street cars run daily over one hundred and twenty miles of track, but they are not permitted in crowded thoroughfares ; they are confined to the out- lying districts. I have only seen them in the east end, in the district known as "The Boro' " and near the Victoria Station. The street cars are " double deckers " and, like the 'buses, they carry more outside than inside 18 LONDON ON WHEELS, passengers, but the number of passengers is limited. When the car has reached its limit it will take up no more passengers. Every passenger has the right to a seat, and, to use a paradoxical phrase, every English- man stands up for his right to a seat. OMNIBUSES. The two thousand omnibuses keep employed eight or nine thousand horses. The number of miles run annu- ally by the omnibuses is five and a half millions, and the number of passengers carried not less than forty- eight millions. Such a heavy, slow-going, cumbersome vehicle as the London omnibus could not be used on out rough- and-tumble roads. It is poorly ventilated, if you can call it ventilated, for the windows are closed and are immovable. The only means of ventilation is by the door, in the rear, near which everybody tries to get. As fast as the choice seats near the door are vacated, they are occupied by the less fortunate passengers, and the last comer is always obliged to take the worst place, which is nearest the front. But in fine weather a man never gets inside while there is a vacant seat on top, and it is no strange sight to see women occupying out- side seats to escape the stifling air inside. Nor does wet weather deter an Englishman from tak- ing an open air seat. Most Englishmen wear a ' * mackin- tosh " in threatening weather and there's a great deal of such weather in London. To every seat on the top of a 'bus there is attached a woolen-lined leather apron to protect the knees, and with an umbrella, which is always part of an Englishman's costume, they manage to keep perfectly dry. LONDON ON WHEELS, 19 The omnibuses are so freely used for advertising pur- poses, the outside is so nearly covered with attractive and gaudy signs of business houses that it is exceedingly difficult to read or discover the route or destination of the vehicle. You may be looking for Blackwall or Putney, but you will read ''Pears' Soap," "Nestle's Food," or ''Mappin & Webb's Razors." The 'buses do not confine themselves to the middle of the roadway and allow passengers to pick and fight their way through a crowd of vehicles, New York-like ; they pull up to the curb to allow passengers to enter or leave without the least possibility of danger or trouble. Conductors will also leave their perch, approach the sidewalk (Anglice, pavement) to consult or advise with a prospective passenger who is in doubt as to which 'bus he should take. Time seems of no importance : they are not in such a rush or whirl of excitement as we are. Whether from the excessive competition or from some other cause I know not : I do know that public servants in England are much more civil and polite than they are in this '' free " country. There are rules which control London omnibuses, and these it is the duty of the police to strictly enforce. A 'bus is licensed and allowed to carry only so many passengers, and this license or limit must be posted on a conspicuous part of the vehicle. The majority are " licensed to carry twenty-six passengers ; twelve inside and fourteen outside. " ! In 1890 the London police force numbered thirteen thousand eight hundred and fifty-five men, not counting the nine hundred and two officers who form a special organization in what is termed ** the city." A consider- able part of the time and attention of the police is de- voted to governing street traffic. Policemen will watch and follow a 'bus for several blocks if they think it contains more passengers than the law allows. When they are assured that this is the case they go to a magis- 20 LONDON ON WHEELS, trate and lay a complaint, and then woe betide the poor driver or conductor who disregarded the law. The 'buses make special stops at certain points of their route and these seem very long and prove tedi- ous to one who is in a hurry ; but if your time is valuable you would never take a 'bus. They are not allowed to stop when near or nearing these special stopping-places, not even if a passenger expresses a desire to alight. I remember once, simply for informa- tion, asking the driver to stop in the middle of Trafalgar square, just as we were passing Nelson's monument, on the way to the Strand, cityward. ''Well," said the polite but uneducated Jehu, *'you carn't expect me to get a four-shilling summons for a penny fare, can you ?" meaning that if he pulled up where I indicated he would be summoned the next day on the complaint of a vigi- lant ** bobby" and be obliged to pay four shillings for accommodating me. In American street cars or omnibuses — excepting, as I remember in San Jose, California, a passenger who rides only a few blocks helps to pay the fare of the man who rides the full length of the road, for the charge to both is the same. It is not so (mis) managed in England. The charge there is by distance, about one penny (two cents) a mile and you pay according to the distance you ride. There are two or three lines of omnibuses whose only fare is a half-penny (one cent). One line runs between Westminster bridge and Trafal- gar square. They pick up no passengers between the two points. They each carry only twelve passengers ; there are no outside seats. There is a great deal of pilfering going on among omnibus conductors, and drivers also, for they divide the spoils ; and the company winks at it, knowing that the pay of these men is not large. The company is satisfied if it receives a fair average return, but in this way it puts a premium on dishonesty. There is no check . LONDON ON WHEELS, 21 against the conductors — no mechanical contrivance to record fares. They are supposed to enter every fare and the exact amount they receive from each passenger on a paper slip placed in a frame, the frame being fast- ened to the inside of the omnibus door, but it is only a supposition. Passengers are requested to see that the amount paid is properly entered, but the request is wholly unheeded. It is, to say the least, a very careless way of keeping accounts, and invites dishonesty. On jnost lines they use tickets showing the amount each passenger pays, but the conductor sometimes forgets to hand you a ticket. An Inspector wall occasionally mount a 'bus to see that all the passengers are supplied with tickets, and then the conductor with a treacherous memory has reason to be sorry. Drivers are paid eight shillings, conductors six shillings, per day, for fifteen hours' work. ON THE TOP OF A 'BUS. The driver is generally a jolly, red-faced fellow and very smartly dressed, especially on Sunday. He then always wears a " top hat : " in winter it is of black silk, in summer a pearl gray felt with a wide mourning band to set it off. His coat is often a double-breasted drab cassimere, and in the top buttonhole of the left lapel is a large and loud nose-gay. A showy scarf and a pair of heavy, tan-colored driving gloves complete his costume. He makes quite a picture as he sits on the box, with a leather strap across his waist which holds him securely in his seat, and a black leather apron to protect the lower part of his body from wind and rain. He carries a showy whip with a very long and loose thong, with the end of which he can pick off a fly from the ear of his leader. 22 LONDON ON WHEELS. The 'bus driver is permitted to smoke while on duty. He comforts himself with a briarwood pipe unless a generous passenger treats him to a cigar, for he is not above accepting a small present. Leopold Rothschild, who lives on a street through which omnibuses pass, has taken a great fancy to these men and in the autumn he presents a pair of pheasants to every omnibus driver and conductor who passes his door. Everybody who has visited London knows that the best way of seeing the city is from the top of a 'bus. Get a front seat, next to the driver, hand him a tip in the shape of a sixpence and ask him a few questions. You will find that he is intelligent, well-informed on every-day subjects, quick-witted and a judge of human nature. I had a very interesting ride last summer on the top of a " Kilburn " 'bus. Some of them start from Vic- toria station, and run northwest to Kilburn, through some very beautiful thoroughfares, in which reside many titled people and some prominent members of London society. In Grosvenor place, soon after starting from the sta- tion, the driver will point out, for instance, the residences of the Dukes of Northumberland, Grafton and Portland ; that of the Earl of Scarborough, at No. i Grosvenor place ; the Dowager Lady de Rothschild ; Sir Edward Cecil Guinness ; that of the late Right Hon. William H. Smith ; also the homes of a number of members of par- liament, more or less well-known. The 'bus goes a short distance through Piccadilly and passes the residences of Baron Ferdinand Rothschild, Lord Rothschild, the Duke of Wellington and the Duke of Hamilton, in Hamilton place. Then it turns into one of London's most aristocratic streets. Park Lane (alongside Hyde Park), where reside th^ DuQhe§s of Somerset, the Marquis of Londonderry, LONDON ON WHEELS, 23 Lord Brassey, Alfred Rothschild, Lord Dudley, the Countess of Dudley, Lord Grosvenor, cousin to the Duke of Westminster, and the Duke of Westminster himself. Kilburn 'buses also start from Charing Cross, in Duncannon Street, opposite the Charing Cross Hotel. A 'bus marked ** Hammersmith " will take you west- ward, through Piccadilly, past the clubs, the parks, some stylish shops, and fashionable residences. You will see St. James's Palace and historic Addison Road, en route, and you can ride across Hammersmith Bridge. You can also go to Kew Gardens and to the famous ** Star and Garter," at Richmond, by 'bus. Here's another very interesting ride. If you are at Oxford Circus you will see omnibuses with the horses' heads turned eastward, and you will hear the Cockney conductor calling out * * Benk, benk. Charing Cross, benk." Take a ride with him. The vehicle goes through Regent street, Trafalgar Square, the Strand, Fleet street, then down Cheapside (which is anything but cheap), and Cornhill, where there is neither corn nor hill. At the end of Cornhill you see the most crowded and bustling crush of vehicles you ever saw in your life. To the right is the Mansion House (correspond- ing with our City Hall) ; a little further on ' * The Monu- ment," with its gold torch at top, looms up; immediately in front is The Royal Exchange, with its Peabody statue, while to the left stands the demure Bank of England, as solid from a financial point of view as it is architecturally. On this route you pass and have in view The National Gallery, Landseer's lions, several famous hotels and theatres, the Law Courts, Temple Bar, the principal newspaper establishments, and St. Paul's Church. The same 'bus, if you wish to pursue your journey eastward, will take you through Leadenhall street and into the very heart of Whitechapel — even to Blackwall and the docks, if your taste lies in that direction. 34 LONDON ON WHEELS, There is no better way of seeing London than fron» the top of a 'bus if you get a seat next to an old and wide-awake driver, and the cost is but a few pennies. There are one hundred and forty different routes in the whole city to choose from. THE CITY TRAFFIC. One of the busiest thoroughfares is that narrow street called "the Strand," where it is crossed by Wellington street. You drive north, through Wellington street, past the Lyceum Theatre to get to Holborn, Co vent Garden Market and elsewhere ; southward there is great traffic over Waterloo Bridge, leading to the Sur- rey side of London, while from the east and west come continuous streams of omnibuses, cabs, carriages and heavy wagons and freight trucks. Policemen stand in the middle of the roadway and regulate this enormous traffic by merely raising a white-cotton-gloved hand. They are calm and immovable, and seem to pay not the slightest heed to their own safety amid the crowded crush of vehicles about them. All come to a standstill before the stiff and fearless *' bobby. " When by wav- ing his hand he directs that a certain stream of vehicles may proceed this way or that, it proceeds, but not until he gives permission. London Bridge is said to be the greatest thoroughfare in the world. More vehicles and foot passengers cross it than pass through any other street, and special pro- vision is made for vehicular traffic. In New York, for instance, a heavily laden four-house truck or wagon may block Broadway for a great distance. If you are behind it in a phaeton or light carriage, you must wait till the driver in front of you, who may be sullen and obstinate, leisurely moves out of the way. No matter LONDON ON WHEELS. 25 in how much haste you are — you may be trying to catch a train or an ocean steamer — you must wait. Not so in London's most crowded streets. On London Bridge, for instance, slow-going and heavily-laden vehicles must keep to the side near the curb and pavement, while car- riages, cabs and light vehicles are allowed the middle of the roadway for quick movement. That part of the roadway directly next to the curb has a smooth surface, and there is also a smooth surface about a foot wide for the outer wheel of heavy wagons — this only on London Bridge and in a few other very busy thoroughfares. It is a capital plan, and gives satisfaction to all con- cerned. ADVICE FROM CHARLES DICKENS. But in such a vast city, with such enormous traffic, nothing can prevent great loss of life and accidents in- numerable from crossing the streets. The point men- tioned above is only one of the busy parts of one street — the Strand — from another point, down by the Law Courts and Temple Bar, it is said that two hundred more or less mangled bodies are sent to the Charing Cross Hos- pital every year. The present Charles Dickens, in his " Dictionary of London," thinks it worth while to suggest that the only way to go from curb to curb is to make up your mind what course you will take, and then stick to it. London cabbies will thus divine your intentions. To change your mind while crossing is to confuse the cabmen, and cause you (so Dickens suggests) to make your return journey to America in the form of freight. As all vehicles in London are driven to the left, keep to the left curb. I found this suggestion of Oakey Hall's valuable: "As you leave a curb, look to the right ; as you approach a curb, look to the left." LONDON HOTELS. Until the year 1880 there was only one hotel in London that came tip to the expectations of American travelers, which compared in size and appointments with Ameri- can hotels of the first-class. This was the Langham Hotel in Portland place. When the Langham was built, nearly thirty years ago, and for several subsequent years, as the writer can attest, for he was a guest there in 187 1, and has been a frequent visitor there since, the Lang- ham was large enough to accommodate all American tourists in London. This, however, has been greatly changed. Americans at that time merely passed through London ; they took it as a sort of stepping-stone en route for Paris. In the days of the Second Empire, when Louis Napoleon wielded the sceptre, and Eugenie set the fashions for the civil- ized world, Americans flocked to Paris like so many sheep. Then it was said : ** See Paris and die." With the downfall of the empire and its accompanying glories our compatriots found Paris less attractive, and they discovered what everybody knows — that London is, in many respects, the most interesting city in the world. A presentation to Her Majesty, and hob-nob- bing with the Prince of Wales, are the things now most desired, and to be in the very height of fashion, one must hire a London house for ** the season," — May, June and July. LONDON HOTELS, 27 THE LANGHAM HOTEL. But this is a digression. The ground, the structure and the furnishing of the Langham Hotel, which was formally opened by the Prince of Wales in June, 1865, cost a million and a half dollars, and it was a wonder and a revelation to the English people. Its noble granite front of two hundred and twelve feet, its dining hall, forty-seven by one hundred and twenty feet ; its music room, drawing-room, and its public rooms generally, were on such a grand scale that Londoners opened wide their eyes in astonishment and admiration. The Lang- ham, by liberal outlay of money and constant improve- ment, keeps up with the times, and notwithstanding that many splendid establishments have been erected within the last decade, it retains its place in the very front rank. People who have not seen the interior of the Langham Hotel, London, since 1890, will notice some changes and marked improvements. Heretofore the dining-room was only entered by a comparatively dark and roundabout way, near the drawing-room ; now it is approached from ** the office " direct, through a wide and handsome ** vestibule," which is flooded with light and richly furnished, making an appropriate entrance to the beautiful dining-room. The drawing-room, which, for its size, its pleasing shape and rich furniture is yet one of the most attractive salons in England, has also been greatly improved. Colonel Sanderson, its first manager, an American, died many years ago. He was brother to Harry Sanderson, famous in his day in New York as a pianist. But English capitalists and business men are not given to making changes, and so we find that Mr. Walter Gosden, who was in the service of the Langham under Mr. Sander- son's management, has been for many years and is now the manager of the hotel. You can get a nice room with 28 LONDON HOTELS. beautiful outlook, and a very good breakfast here for less than two dollars a day. This estimate includes the charge for attendance. Address, Walter Gosden, Port- land place, Regent street, W. THE GRAND. During the past twelve years, however, many superb buildings for hotel purposes have been erected in the English metropolis. Among the largest and most popu- lar are the three grouped together, as it were, in one short street, Northumberland avenue, which, only two blocks long, extends in a southerly direction from Tra- falgar square to the banks of the Thames. These are the Grand, the Metropole and the Victoria, to name them in the order they vvere erected. So popular has this cluster of hotels become, and so many well-to-do Americans do they attract, that property in the neigh- borhood has largely increased in value, and the trades- people blame the ** Yankees" for the increased rents they have to pay, never speaking of the increased pa- tronage which they enjoy from these same ** Yankees." The features of the Grand Hotel, the longest estab- lished of these three, are well-known, but former pa- trons will scarcely recognize the reception-room, which, with its new, solid-looking furniture and rich, dark dec- orations, is now one of the most attractive apartments of its kind to be seen, even in these days of the uphol- sterer and decorator. While artistic and costly, it has an air of utility and comfort which you will not find very often repeated. The drawing-room of the Grand was being "done up" during last winter, and "it is now just as handsome as the reception-room." Cable, Granotel, London. LONDON HOTELS, HOTEL METROPOLE. To American visitors in London the Metropole is one of the most attractive of the more recently built hotels. Situated in Northumberland Avenue, and being replete with the latest conveniences, no hotel in the metropolis approaches nearer to the ideal which was first evolved in the L^nited States of the model modem caravansary. To dwell upon the subject of the gene- ral characteristics of the Hotel Metropole would be superfluous ; they and it are too well known to Ameri- cans who have visited London, but a short description of the celebrated " grand salon " of the Metropole, as it has lately been refitted and decorated, will be read with interest. The scheme of adornment is most tasteful, and per- fectly and harmoniously carried out in all details. Two shades of maroon in contrast with white and gold are the leading features of the ensemble, and the general effect of this combination is extremely felicitous and pleasing. The wall space between the lofty windows and the immense mirrors is covered with stamped Utrecht velvet of a soft, natural tint and richness of design. The pillars are painted in maroon, with gilt capitals, an arrangement of color which is at once novel and agreeable to the eye. The patterns on the flutings of the beams which support the roof are picked out in gold on a white ground. The roof panels are covered with dull gold of a pecu- liarly restful tint, and the design introduced in various portions of the general decoration have an unusually aesthetic character. The electric lights, of which there are a considerable number, are surrounded by cut crys- tal pendants and greatly enhance the brilliancy of the illumination. In the center of the room is a palm, the leaves of which shadow a space thirty feet in circumfer- 30^ LONDON HOTELS. ence. It towers toward the ceiling, and for grace and beauty is not easily equalled in Florida, nor greatly excelled even in California. Tree palms are placed at intervals throughout the spacious room, producing a pleasing effect of verdure, and each . of the separate tables is adorned with flowers ; while the rich candela- bra, with handsome shades placed upon each table, afford the subdued light which is preferable, to the cruder glare of the former style of lighting. The gen- eral coup d'ceil in the grand salon is singularly graceful and attractive. A large number of public and private banquets take place at the Hotel Metropole, this being one of the recognized resorts for ceremonies of that description. At the Metropole the *' show " apartments are known as the Eugenie and Marie Antoinette suites, and they have afforded many a descriptive writer material for an article. Probably no hotel sleeping chambers equal these for rich and costly decoration — for the laces, the frescoes and luxurious furniture. The reader will know that ample means were at command when told that in the selection of site, in constructing and furnishing the Metropole, half a million sterling (two and a half mil- lion dollars) were expended. And such a success has the Metropole proved that the company were encour- aged to invest further in hotel property with the result that they now own and control three hotels of the first class in London, also five other hotels in different parts of Europe. Among these are the Metropole at Monte Carlo, the Metropole at Cannes, and the Metropole at Brighton, the last named being the latest hotel erected by this com- pany, and one which will compare in many respects with the most renowned hotels of the world. Rooms at the London Metropole from three shillings and sixpence to one pound per day , breakfast from two-and-six-pence to four shillings ; table d'hote luncheon, three-and-six ; table d'hote dinner, five shillings— one dollar and a half. LONDON HOTELS, 31 HOTEL VICTORIA. The latest constructed of these three hotels is the Hotel Victoria. Printed words cannot easily convey to the mind an adequate idea of the magnificence of this structure. The public rooms of the Victoria are palatial in their proportions and appointments, the grand stair- case is a marvel of beauty, and the sleeping rooms con- tain all the conveniences and contrivances found in modern hotels of the highest class. Besides the com- forts characteristic of an English house, and the luxurious cuisine of a continental hotel, the attention and the dis- cipline which rule at the Victoria remind one of an American hotel. You need have no fear that the cards of friends call- ing will not be promptly sent to you : nor is there any delay here about the delivery of telegrams, letters and packages. Letters are placed in your box up to a cer- tain hour of the evening, after that hour they are sent to your room. There is a package-room, also a ''pack- age clerk," who receives all bundles, signs therefor, and enters the same in a book, so that it may be known immediately if a package has been received for a guest. If a telegram or a card from a caller is received and the key to your room is not in its box, thus indicating that you are in your room, or at least in the house, a servant is immediately dispatched to your room, while a little page in livery is started off through all the halls and public rooms calling out in a loud voice your room number in this fashion, "Number 630, please." If you are anywhere under the roof you are sure to be found by this excellent method. A feature of the Hotel Victoria is a corps of valets. There are seven floors in the building, each accommo- dating about sixty or seventy guests, and to each floor a valet is assigned v/ho performs all the ordinary duties of such a servant. Shoes are not carried down below to. 32 LONDON HOTELS, be mixed and confused with hundreds of others, but are poHshed by the valet on your floor. The valet also enters your room during your absence, removes all the clothes he finds hanging or lying about, brushes and folds the same and puts them back neatly. It is a con- venience, returning to your hotel late in the evening and in haste to dress for dinner or the theatre, to find your evening suit nicely folded and brushed, ready to put on. These and other provisions for the comfort of guests indicate the general care in management and the close attention to detail which obtain at the Victoria, and which have given it its wide reputation. The ap- pointments include a billiard-room with five full-sized tables. Good rooms on fifth floor, a dollar and a half a day. This includes attendance and lights. Breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six ; table d'hote lunch- eon about the same ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and a quarter. Manager, G. Reeves-Smith. Cable and telegraphic address, Victoriola, London. LONG'S HOTEL. There is another trio of London hotels that may be grouped* together, on account of their proximity — the Hotel Albemarle (Albemarle street and Piccadilly), Long's hotel (New Bond street), and the Hotel Bristol (Burlington Gardens, between Bond and Regent streets). The last two are but a few yards apart. They are all comparatively new buildings, and new also in name and history, except Long's, which was erected on the ground where the first Long's stood for two hundred years. Long's, though not of great capacity, has a larger num- ber of richly furnished bedrooms than the Ponce de Leon, in St. Augustine, Fla. For the beauty of the ex- terior and the magnificent surroundings of the Ponce de Leon, as well as for the Oriental splendor of its public LONDON HO TELS. 33 rooms, no words of praise can be too lavish. But the two hotels, "the Ponce" and Long's, cannot be com- pared ; their characteristics are so different. One is like a royal palace in the country, the other resembles a gentleman's quiet, city home. Long's differs from every other hotel I have seen in this respect, that all of its bedrooms have rich hangings, and the walls of each are decorated with works of art. The apartments are not cold and bare, as are the bedrooms of most hotels ; they suggest home-like comforts, and are furnished in the best taste. The walls of the dining-room at Long's are hung with Gobelin tapestry, and on the whole it may be called a beautifully appointed hotel. A. Hartmann, manager. THE BRISTOL. They have some very attractive hotels in Boston ; the Brunswick, for example, and everybody has heard of the beautiful Spanish hotels in St. Augustine, and the great Auditorium in Chicago. I have lived at all these houses, also at the Hotel del Coronado, Coronado Beach, and at California's other famous house, the Hotel del Monte, at Monterey, with its 126 acres for a garden. There are few or none that are more gorgeous than these, and they always come to one's memory when dis- cussing the best hotels, but certainly New York City cannot boast of a hotel interior that equals in tasteful decorations those of the Bristol in London. It is a gem in its way. A veritable bijou of a room is the reception room of the Bristol. It is minus the onyx tables and costly paintings you see at the Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine, and the " gold " chairs that dazzle your eyes in so many American hotels : everything in this room at the Bristol, 34 LONDON HO TELS. from the soft carpet on the floor to the decoration on the ceihng, is rich, but also quiet in tone — soothing and har- monious. The Royal Academy, the Burlington Arcade (a fashionable shopping street) and Piccadilly are all within a few hundred feet of the Bristol. The Bristol is patronized by such well-known New Yorkers as the Vanderbilts, the Twomblys and the owner of the New York World, and also by princes of the old world and those of blue blood from everywhere. It is nothing if not elegant and aristocratic. In the summer of 1892, during my visit to the Bristol, among the titled guests occupying suites of apartments there was the Due d' Alba, brother to the King of Italy. Telegraph or write to the Bristol Hotel, Burlington Gardens, London, W. THE HOTEL ALBEMARLE. Although rebuilt and opened as recently as the begin- ning of 1890, the Hotel Albemarle has already gained a position and reputation as one of the most select and fashionable hotels in London. Its situation, to begin with, has undoubtedly had much to do with its imme- diate success. It conspicuously fronts the north end of the celebrated thoroughfare, St. James's street, in the centre of the court quarter of London, and stands at the comer of Albemarle street and Piccadilly. No better location for a hotel, destined to be at once aristocratic and accessible to the traveling public, could have been selected. Towering high above the surrounding build- ings, the Albemarle, with its double fagade, seventy-five feet on Piccadilly and seventy-five feet on the street from which it takes its name, cannot fail to attract obser- vation. It is built of terra cotta in the Francis I. style of architecture, and the general effect is both graceful and imposing. LONDON HOTELS, 35 The main entrance is in Albemarle street. The in- terior of the hotel is furnished and decorated in a variety of styles of the Renaissance period. The furni- ture and decoration of the dining-room, ladies' drawing- room on the ground floor, the fitting and decoration of the hall and staircase, are treated in the style of Francis I. The style of Henri II. has been adopted for the first and second floors ; the third floor is in the style of Louis XV., and the fourth in that of Louis XIV. Special mention must be made of the " Rubens Room," furnished and decorated effectively in the Louis XV. style. This apartment derives its name from a fine painting which adorns the ceiling, and which is believed to be from the brush, either of Rubens himself or of one of his pupils. The furnishing, fitting and decorating of the Hotel Albemarle were effected by the well-known London firm of Shoolbred, after designs from a famous French artist. The building being of such recent erection, it is scarcely necessary to state that none of the modern im- provements has been neglected in its construction. The most careful attention has been paid to sanitary arrangements, and the hotel is lighted throughout by electricity. In the two years which have elapsed since it was opened, it has quickly become renowned for the excellence of its cuisine and service. Its wine cellar is one of the choicest in London. Royalty, the nobility, and visitors of the highest fashion patronize the Hotel Albemarle. During the London season, in particular, its rooms are crowded with distinguished guests. To Americans, especially, it should prove a most attractive resort, if only on ac- count of the brilliant and aristocratic neighborhood in which it is situated. St. James's Park, St. James's Palace and Marlborough House are near at hand. Hyde Park, with its "Drive" and "Row," is within five minutes' walk. The Art Galleries, the theatres, B6 LONDON HOTELS, the Opera House, the Houses of Parliament, the clubs, Westminster Abbey, and several of the principal mu- seums are within the compass of a shilling cah fare. The best and most fashionable shops in London are situated in the near vicinity, in Piccadilly and in Bond and Regent streets, while Oxford street, where many of the cheaper shops are to be found, is but a short dis- tance off — in short, it may be said that the Hotel Albe- marle stands almost in the centre of the fashionable life and business of London. Interest attaches to Albemarle street itself as an his- torical thoroughfare. During the last century it en- joyed peculiar reputation as a place of residence at the west end of the metropolis, and not a little of this old- time prestige clings to it still. The Prince of Wales, afterwards George the Second, once lived in Albemarle street, and when Louis the Eighteenth of France was in England in 1814 he made it his place of stay, and held, at the now defunct ** Griilon's Hotel," his receptions of the leaders of the English nobility. The famous pub- lishing house, Murray's, through w^hose doors have passed such celebrities in the world of letters as Byron, Scott, Southey, Crabbe, Hallam, Tom Moore, Gifford, Lockhart, Washington Irving and many others, is situ- ated immediately opposite the entrance to the Hotel. You would never imagine that it was a publishing house or business house of any kind. It looks like an ordinary private dwelling, and the only sign on the building is one small, dull brass plate on the front wall upon which is engraved "Mr. Murray." The proprietor of the Hotel Albemarle is Mr. A. L. Vogel. He is to be congratulated on the rapid success he has met with in his efforts to establish one of the best of London hotels. Mr. Vogel has purchased the freehold of property adjoining the Albemarle Hotel, and a large addition to the hotel will be erected pres_ ently, thus affording room for a new salle a manger and some thirty more bedrooms. LONDON HO TELS. 37 Mr. Vogel issues as a '* Guide to London " a compre- hensive and, in its way, a complete little book of fifty pages, illustrated and prettily bound in cloth. It is sent free to any address in the world on application. The hotel accommodates about one hundred guests. Address the Albemarle, Albemarle street. Piccadilly. London. THE SAVOY. A London hotel that has, so to speak, jumped into popularity is the Savoy Hotel. It is a new house, on the Victoria embankment, with the Strand at its back, the public gardens in front and the Thames at its feet. It lies between Charing Cross and Waterloo Bridge, and for a " finger post " it has Cleopatra's needle. There is an entrance for foot passengers from the Strand and a carriage drive from the embankment directly into the courtyard, like that of the Palace Hotel in San Francisco, the Grand Hotel in Paris, and the Grand in Brussels. In fact, the Savoy is more like a continental than an English house, and the owners call it ''the Hotel de Luxe of the world." Luxurious in size and appoint- ments, the Savoy certainly is. It is not continental, however, in its system of charges. Nor for that matter is it like any other London hotel, its system being American. In all Parisian hotels candles are a separate charge : in nearly all European hotels attendance is a separate item, and in most hotels in the civilized world you must pay extra for baths. Not so at the Savoy. When you are told the rate for an apartment every- thing is included — everything of course but meals — bedroom, lights, attendance and baths. There are sixty- 38 LONDON HOTELS, seven bath rooms in the house, and beneath it there is an artesian well four hundred and twenty feet deep. The boiling water, as well as the cold, like Jacobs's bottle, is inexhaustible, and you can bathe to your heart's con- tent. You can hire a room for two persons for two dollars a day, or you may engage a suite at twenty dollars a day. As to table, you may live economically at the Savoy, or you may live like a prince — a rich prince. Here are the definite and fixed rates at the Savoy : — bedrooms for one person, from seven and sixpence (nearly two dollars) per day ; for two persons, ten-and-six ; suites of apartments containing sitting-room, bed-room, dress- ing-room and private bath-room, from thirty shillings per day. Breakfast from two shillings to three-and-six ; luncheon, four shillings ; dinner, seven-and-six ; dinner served in private rooms ten-and-six. Guests' servants are boarded at six shillings per day ; price of room according to location. If you want to live in style and enjoy, at its best, life in London, engage a suite at the Savoy, including parlor and bath-room, with private lobby and private balcony overlooking the Thames. It makes no difference what floor you select : there are ''lifts" in the house, so large and luxurious as to be justly called ''ascending rooms:" they run day and night. The rooms on the top floor are equal in height of ceiling to those on the lower floors, and the furniture is of the same quality throughout the house. General manager, C. Ritz ; acting manager, L. Echenard. HOTEL WINDSOR. The Hotel Windsor is in Victoria street, only five minutes' walk from Victoria Station, two minutes' walk from the American Legation, a few steps from West- LONDON HOTELS. 39 minster Abbey, Westminster Bridge, the Houses of Parliament, St. James's Park and the Home Office. The dining-room of the Windsor is an especially cheerful apartment and it overlooks the pretty garden of a church. The great plate glass windows in this dining- room are larger than the windows in any other hotel, so large that they are only moved up or down by ropes to which handles are 'attached. They let in plenty of daylight, almost as much as streams freely into the dining-room of the Hotel Pasaje, Havana, which opens on the street, and which is not encumbered with win- dows at all. The Hotel Windsor is not only kept by a ''proprietor " in the accepted American use of that term, but the furniture, the building and the ground on which it stands are owned in fee (" freehold," as English people call it), by two men, J. R. Cleave and V. D. B. Cooper, the first named being the actual and active manager of the house, who makes it his home, the title of the firm being J. R. Cleave & Co. The premises include fifteen thousand square feet of ground, which, without the im- posing ten-story stone structure upon it, is valued at forty-five thousand pounds sterling — not far short of a quarter million dollars. The Windsor is fortunate in its location. A shilling cab takes you to any theatre or to the shopping centre, and 'buses pass the door every minute for Charing Cross, Trafalgar square and the Strand. Time, ten minutes ; fare, two cents, inside or out. There is a lift at the Windsor of modern style ; the house is lighted by electricity ; there are Turkish and swimming baths on the lower floor ; to avoid disagree- able odors the kitchen is at the top of the house ; the bedrooms are scrupulously clean, the cuisine and wines are of the best quality, and the charges moderate. You can live at the Windsor, if you prefer it, on the Ameri- can plan — rate, about four dollars a day. The European 40 LONDON HOTELS, plan is also moderate in price for rooms and meals — a delicious lunch for sixty cents : choice service. If this is the description of a model hotel, worthy in every respect of the best patronage, *' that," as humorist Gilbert says, *' is the idea I intended to convey." The Windsor was built about thirteen years ago. Address, J. R. Cleave, manager, Victoria street, Westminster, S. W. BAILEY'S HOTEL. Americans going to London for business, intent upon shopping, theatre-going and a round of sight-seeing, find hotels in the Strand, or hotels near Trafalgar square, very convenient. Reference is made to the Grand, the Metropole, the Savoy, and the Victoria, in their alpha- betical order. The Langham, in Portland place, and those select houses near Burlington Gardens and Picca- dilly — Long's, the Bristol, the Burlington and the Albe- marle, are also central, convenient, and in a fashionable district. If, however, a family is going to London for a pro- tracted stay and the desire of their hearts is to be in an ultra-fashionable locality, where the aristocracy reside, and where quiet and selectness reign and salubrity is assured, then Bailey's Hotel, on the corner of Glouces- ter and Cromwell roads, is recommended and recom- mends itself. If you are in haste and do not care for a cab, the "underground " will take you from ** the city " or from Charing Cross to Bailey's Hotel in fifteen min- utes, fare ^w^ cents, third class ; fifteen cents in a first- class carriage. When you reach Gloucester Road Station you are at Bailey's Hotel, and within a few minutes walk of Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, Cromwell Gardens, Stan- hope Gardens, Queen's Gate Gardens, etc., etc. Near at LONDON HOTELS, 41 hand are the Albert Memorial, Albert Hall, and South Kensington Museum. There is no attempt to lead people to believe that very low prices prevail or that Bailey's is a " cheap house " in any sense of the term. On the contrary, you pay for the best, and you get it. You can live at Bailey's Hotel on the European plan at about the same rate as at an American hotel of the first-class. Single rooms rent at about one dollar per day ; double rooms from a dollar and a half ; suites from four dollars and a half upward. These are the winter rates. They are a trifle higher during '* the season." As at all English hotels, breakfast varies in price f.rom fifty cents to seventy-five cents ; luncheon from sixty cents ; table d'hote dinner, one dollar and twenty-five cents. Of course it is English, and there are some ex- tras. It is a rule at every English hotel, except the Savoy in London, to make a separate charge for ** at- tendance, " about thirty-five cents per day for each per- son, and Bailey's conforms to the rule. No American likes it and it seems odd, but it is the custom in England, and when in Rome . Four dollars per week is the charge for each member of the canine race. BERNERS HOTEL, OXFORD STREET. London is a pretty large town, and those hotels whose names are so much in men's mouths, such as the Grand, the Victoria, the Savoy, the Langham, the Metropole, do not include the entire list of excellent houses. The Berners Hotel is not so grand as these nor near so large ; but for that reason, and because its prices are moderate, it commends itself to many. Berners Hotel is intended for and is largely patronized by families. Berners street is a quiet, narrow street running off from Oxford street and is but a few steps west from fashionable Regent street. 42 LONDON HOTELS. The location is not without historical interest. In Berners street Theodore Hook played the most famous of his many practical jokes. In t4ie early days of the century practical jokes were more in favor than they are now. " A practical joke is a peasant's joke," says the Italian proverb — '' Gioco di mano gioco villano.'' But allowance must be made for the animal spirits which prevailed "in the hot days when George the Fourth was king/* and the ** Berners Street Hoax" was planned and carried out by Theodore Hook on such a large scale that its very completeness removed it from the category of ordinary hoaxes. The *' Berners Street Hoax " was simple enough in its conception. It consisted in ordering two hundred trades- men to send at the same time goods of the most varied kinds to a particular house in Berners street (No. 54) ; the originator of the little comedy having meanwhile secured for himself a post of observation in a house im- mediately opposite the scene of action. The house, No. 6, where the Berners Hotel has been established for the last half century, is associated less with comic than with dramatic incidents. Here, in this very house, lived Fauntleroy, the banker ; and here, according to a legend which may well be founded on fact, he concealed, after committing his great forgery, a considerable portion of the proceeds ; lodging solid bullion behind wainscoting, up chimneys, and in odd corners of secret cupboards. The ancient house, with its abundant woodwork, its carved cornices, and its painted ceiling, transports one to the past ; though the modern furniture and the newly-invented appliances of all kinds soon recall the dreamer to the time in which we live. The building also has a history, and is old, but the apartments and the appointments are up to date. The house was recently "done over" (London lingo) by By water & Co., a celebrated English firm of decorators. LONDON HOTELS 43 It is within walking distance of many places of amuse- ment and within a shilling cab fare of the principal rail- way stations. The charges at Berners Hotel are moderate ; single bedroom from two and six (sixty-two cents) per day ; breakfast from one and six ; luncheon from one shilling ; table d'hote dinner, three and six — less than one dollar. Visitors are also received on boarding terms at a special rate, from nine shillings per day, including room, attend- ance, breakfast, luncheon and dinner (six courses) at table d'hote. Children under ten years ^t half price. Board and lodging for visitors' servants, six shillings per day. George Augustus Sala, himself a famous bo7i vivant, is chairman of the company ; Thomas Ward, a man of wide experience in hotel management, is the resident director, and he is well supported by a most capable manager. Mail address, 6 and 7 Berners street, Oxford street, W. ; cable address, Berners Hotel, London. IN JERMYN STREET. A couple of small, quiet hotels in Jermyn street — a street which runs parallel with Piccadilly — may be found pleasant by families or by ladies without escort. They lack that bustle and noise to which some people object, and they are not "company hotels," that is to say the head and front of each is always visible and approach- able. Mr. Rawlings is proprietor of the Rawlings Hotel, and Mr. Morle with his family keeps and manages the house which bears his name. While Jermyn street is narrow and its two hotels are quiet, plenty of life and gayety are to be had near at hand. Bond street and Regent street, two of the most fashionable shopping streets of London, are hard by, and the parks and palaces are within walking distance. 44 LONDON HOTELS. Rawlings' Hotel is famous for its cuisine, and a feature at Morle's is that you can arrange to live on the Ameri- can plan if you prefer, the charges being *' inclusive, " as they call this plan there, and very moderate withal. Both these houses are homelike and comfortable, but they are not strictly fashionable. Do not confuse Morle's in Jermyn street with Morley's in Trafalgar square. Morlpy's has a magnificent out- look, with the noble Nelson Monument, Landseer's lions and the playing fountains in front, and the dinner served at Morley's is of the best quality, but the house is very old and rather worn, notwithstanding its white and attractive exterior. THE FIRST AVENUE. Don't be prejudiced at the sound of '* First Avenue Hotel." It is in Holborn, a bustling, busy thorough- fare, but which has nothing in common with our First avenue in New York. The Gordon's Hotel Company erred in naming the house ; they possibly meant to say Fifth Avenue Hotel, for the First Avenue Hotel ranks probably with our Fifth Avenue Hotel in New York, only the First Avenue is not an old house. Hol- born is one of London's main arteries, a continuation, east, of Oxford street. The First Avenue is not very far from St. Paul's and Newgate. The former being a noble cathedral, you will wish to get into ; the latter being a prison, you will wish to keep out of, unless for a temporary visit. OTHER HOTELS. Another hotel in Holborn which may be commended is the Holborn Viaduct Hotel, near the city station of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. LONDON HOTELS, 45 A pleasant house in High Holborn is the Inns of Court ; neither fashionable nor grand, but select and comfortable ; largely patronized by English people. Terms moderate. The main entrance is in Lincoln's Inn Fields. There are some famous old houses farther east, in the city, in such a bustling, busy quarter as St. Martin's le Grand, near the General Post Office. The Queen's Hotel in this neighborhood is best known. Not far from this locality is the Manchester Hotel, in Aldersgate street. The proprietor of the Manchester Hotel especially solicits American patronage. Those who desire to make frequent visits to the Houses of Parliament and that grand old pile, Westminster Abbey, will find the Westminster Palace Hotel conven- ient. It has an imposing front, in Victoria street, West- minster, almost opposite to the Abbey. Within five minutes' walk of this hotel are the Home Office, St. James's Park, the Horse Guards, Westminster Bridge, leading to the Surrey side of London, the United States Legation, and the Victoria Station of the London, Chat- ham and" Dover Railway. The favorite and well kept Hotel Windsor, referred to elsewhere, is also in Victoria street, and still nearer to the Station and the Legation before mentioned. Convenient to Hyde Park are the Alexandra Hotel, 1 6 to 21 vSt. George's Place, Hyde Park Corner, and the Hyde Park Hotel. The latter is at the west end of Ox- ford street, in Hyde Park Place, near the Marble Arch. Claridge's Hotel used to be considered "the crack" house of London, and it is still patronized by the nobility, members of the diplomatic corps and by royalty. Nos. 49 to 55 Brook street, Grosvenor Square. The Hotels connected with the railway stations are large structures, sc^lidly built, fire-proof, as a general rule, and fitted up with every modern contrivance. They are desirable stopping places if you arrive late at night 46 LONDON HOTELS, or if you intend to make an early start by rail, from the station, in the morning. They were erected for that purpose, and they serve it admirably. There are very many reputable hotels in London which are worthy of the best patronage, detailed refer- ence to which, in this limited space, it would not be pos- sible to make. If none of the hotels described or alluded to in the fore- going list suits your plans and purposes, consult friends who have had experience in such matters. But don't go, hap-hazard, into the smallest and oldest London hotels of whose very existence you never heard. Some of them are unpleasant, as residences ; others are un- healthy. If your stay in London is short there is every reason why you should put up at the best houses. If you make a protracted visit and desire to economize, go to a boarding house or take lodgings. You will see signs in windows all over London : hire rooms and eat where your fancy or purse directs. London housekeepers are glad to ** eke out " by letting rooms in the summer, and with a small tip now and then to the maid, life can be made very comfortable in London lodgings. A FEW BOARDING HOUSES. There are plent}" of first-class boarding houses where Americans are welcome. Five or six come to mind — Mrs. Pool's, No. 20 Bedford place ; Mrs. Goodman's, No. 13 Montague place ; Mrs. Philp's, No. 6 Montague place ; Mrs. Wright's, No. 15 Upper Woburn place, and Mr. Cooper's, No. i Bedford place, Russell square. Mrs. Philp is an American whose husband keeps the Cock- burn Hotel in Glasgow ; and there is a Philp's Cockburn Hotel in Edinburgh. Mrs. Philp's drawing-room is beautiful, the dining-room cheerful, and there is a pretty LO N DON HO TEL S, 47 garden which is backed by the walls of the British Museum, so Mrs. Philp is easily found. Those who want to live economically but comfortably are recommended to the handsome private hotel or pension of Mrs. Marcus Pool, 2.0 Bedford place, Russell square. This is a pleasant and convenient quarter of the city — quite handy for the British Museum, not far from Charing Cross, and a shilling cab fare to railway stations and places of amusement. The house is fur- nished and appointed on a liberal scale ; the drawing- room is large and cheerful ; the bedrooms are luxuri- ously fitted up in the best taste, and they have a pleasant outlook. There is a Broadwood piano, also a new billiard room, with a table from the famous firm of Bennett. The house has a refined, home-like air, well representing the character of Mrs. Pool and her charm- ing daughter. French and German are spoken. The terms at the Pool pension are from two dollars a day, which include breakfast, table d'hote dinner and attend- ance — '* everything inclusive." Those are the terms **in the season;" the winter rates are lower. The cuisine is of the substantial English quality, but not heavy. At Pool's pension you are sure to meet culti- vated and select people. Those w^ho have been Mrs. Pool's guests appear perfectly satisfied ; for they return again and again. Mr. Cooper keeps a good house and he caters to people accustomed to pleasant surroundings. He is a typical Londoner of the middle class — honest, blunt and out-spoken. Mrs. Lucy H. Hooper, wife of the American Mce-Consul in Paris, recommends No. i Bedford place. Mrs. Hooper makes it her stopping place when she is in London. "American Family Home." — This is the title of a London establishment which meets with especial favor among fastidious tourists. It is known as the Demeter House, and is at No. 13 Montague place, Russell Square, W. C, a boarding-house district, but quiet, select and 48 LONDON HOTELS, healthful. Montague Place is not far from Oxford street ; in two minutes you get a penny 'bus which goes to Charing Cross. Montague place is backed by the British Museum, between which and the Demeter House are airy and attractive gardens. The house is large and the rooms spacious and beautifully fitted up ; the hand- some drawing-room measures thirty feet square. Mr. and Mrs. A. Goodman have kept the Demeter House for about six years. They aim to combine the comforts and freedom of a refined home and the advantages of a hotel, but with less expense. There is accommodation in the Demeter House for twenty-two guests. Many leading American families make this their home during their annual visits to London. It can be recommended to people of refined tastes accustomed to neat, clean and well-appointed houses. The rates are from six to eight shillings per day for breakfast (meat breakfast) and dinner ; no charge for attendance. In mid-day you are occupied in London in sight-seeing, so luncheon is not included in the figures quoted. Put down "No. 15 Upper Woburn place, Tavistock square," and note that it is not far from Euston station. It is a quiet street. The house is kept by an English woman of refinement, Miss Mary Wright and her sister, and it may be commended as a pleasant Christian home, where grace is said before meals. Of these boarding houses, like all the hotels mentioned in this article, the writer speaks from his own knowledge and experience. But don't count on getting accommo- dation in London hotels in the season, without making previous arrangements or giving notice in advance of your arrival, or you may be disappointed. WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON, AND WHERE NOT TO LUNCH. It may be set down at the outset that there are no restaurants in London equal to Delmonico's in Fifth avenue, or the Cafe Savarin in the Equitable Building, New York, and no London restaurant serves a table d'hote dinner at any price equal in quality and style of service to that furnished at the select and elegant " Cambridge," Fifth avenue and 33d street, New York. Neither is there a restaurant of the third class that will compare with Mouquin's, in Ann street, where everything is cooked to a turn, and where even a fastidious gour- met need not find fault. There are two or three Italian places in Regent street where they serve a ** Chateau- briand," enough for two persons, for one dollar, but no- where do you get a dish of macaroni that is more pala- table than at Mouquin's and neither in London nor Paris do you get as good Burgundy for the price as Mouquin's Beaujolais — half bottle, forty cents. The foreign halls are more richly gilded, and the fur- niture is of finer texture, but if you are looking for as good food and as well served at that at Mouquin's, at Mouquin's prices, you will look in vain. In the price of wines, however, no first-class hotel or restaurant anywhere that I know of sells wines as low as the manager of the Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Cal. In France, on the Swiss border, I found vin ordinaire almost as cheap as water, in the small inns. The Hotel del Monte, please bear in mind, is a superbly appointed and grand establishment, and they serve you a half 50 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. bottle of good California Zinfandel for fifteen cents. But then this hotel company own their own vineyards, and make no profit on wine served at table. It is a sort of '' sample " or advertisement for their wines. ** The Aerated Bread Shops," which are as *' thick as flies " in London, are probably good enough places to drop into if you are in a great hurry, for a cup of coffee or cocoa and a roll or piece of dry, digestible seed cake. If you abhor marble tables, if you must have a serviette and you would avoid a crowd and mixed company, keep out of the *' aerated bread shops," and by the same token and by all means keep out of the Lockhart lunch shops. The ''aerated bread shops" are tolerable ; the others are not. Much more worthy of patronage than aerated bread shops or Lockhart's lunch shops is the confectionery and cake counter of William Buszard, 197 and 199 Oxford street, where everything is clean and inviting. A sim- ilar place of the first-class is that in "the city," of Alfred Purssell & Co., No. 80 Cornhill, E. C. The pro- prietor of this establishment is related to the late Wil- liam Purssell, founder of the famous restaurant in Broad- way which still bears his name. There are several pleas- ant places in and near Piccadilly where you may obtain a cup of tea or cocoa and a dainty sandwich, just enough to ''stay the appetite." One of the best of these is Callard's, 146 New Bond street, but even in this neat and clean little shop they don't know what a serviette is. The Tivoli restaurant, up stairs, connected with the Tivoli Music Hall, is in the Strand, just East of Charing Cross. ' ' La Haute Cuisine Frangaise, " as they term it, is in charge of a famous chef, M. Gerard. A Table d'Hote Luncheon, at 2s. 6d., from 12 to 3 ; Parisian dinner, at 5s., from 6 to 9, served in the Flemish Room. Londoners are proud of their Holborn Restaurant, 218 High Holborn, where the glass and the brass and the WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 51 marole columns are resplendent and imposing, and where you are regaled with vocal music (English glees) during the dinner hour, but the meals are not daintily served ; the butter is not cold and the plates are not warm, and unless you order a costly meal at the Hol- born Restaurant, the waiter may wait on you with con- descension. Dinner, three-and-six. There is a Washington Restaurant in London, 203 Oxford street, not far from Oxford Circus. Its title attracts Americans, although the proprietors are Italians, Costa and Magri. Great stress is laid on the large and choice stock of wines here, and the cellars, as I know from examination, contain some good brands. There is not much style at '*The Washington," but on the other hand the prices (for food) do not reach the top notch. The elegant Hotel Bristol, 17 Cork street, Burlington Gardens, is open as a restaurant in the middle of the day. This now is the place for a gourmet or an epicure. The dishes are served in perfect style and the wines are the choicest. A four-shilling table d'hote luncheon is served daily at the Bristol. This price, of course, does not include even a ** small bottle. " If you are in ''the city," in the neighborhood of the Bank (the Bank of England) and you have a desire to see how and where some of the bankers, brokers and merchants lunch, step into the " Palmerston Restau- rant," Palmerston Buildings, a solid looking structure, at 34 Old Broad street. I don't know exactly, but I believe it is kept by the company which "runs" the aristocratic Hotel Bristol in Burlington Gardens. No matter who keeps it, The Palmerston is well kept, and it is called "the largest one-floor restaurant in the world." Neither do I know what is meant by that re- mark since there are several floors besides a cold luncheon counter, dining rooms for ladies, grill room, reading room, supplied with newspapers from all parts 52 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. of the world (in which, of course, you will find The Home Joicrnat), smoking and billiard rooms, even a hair- dressing saloon and bath rooms. The Palmerston is worthy its great name. It is in the city proper and well worth a visit. Ladies who are in the neighborhood of Westminster Abbey or who have business at the American Legation, are recommended to the Army and Navy stores, in Victoria street, opposite the Windsor Hotel, where a dainty lunch is served at a very moderate sum. You can do your shopping in the same large establishment. They sell everything, from a poached ^^% to an Axminster car- pet or a wedding outfit. The Army and Navy stores is on the cooperative plan. To gain entrance you must either use a member's ticket number or use good judgment. Gatti is a well-known name in the Strand, where the Gattis have two large, gaudily furnished restaurants, one of which extends to King William street. The Gattis are also owners of the Adelphi Theatre, where you may always enjoy a drama — if you enjoy melo- drama. The Gattis are Swiss, and one of the brothers is a legislator in one of the Swiss Cantons. They com- menced in a small way, in the east end of London, many years ago and made a reputation for their ices. They long since moved to the west end, where they increased their business and they now conduct a thriving trade. All Gatti's waiters are foreigners. They are a talkative set, and some people might prefer that their linen be nearer the color of snow. IN REGENT STREET. If you are in the neighborhood of Piccadilly Circus, a fair place to get luncheon at a fair price is " the Flor- ence " in Rupert street, Regent street. It is an Italian WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON, 53 restaurant ; the lunch is served table d'hote and the price is one shilling and sixpence. But there is no profit to the restaurateur in the mere lunch : you are expected to order wine — indeed that is the expectation in all English restaurants and hotels — all hotels that are not temperance houses. At the Florence you can get din- ner from six to nine, for half-a-crown — sixty-two cents — and you order wine of course. If you are fond of high living, and you don't mind paying for it, take a meal in the middle of the day or early in the evening at the Hotel Continental. It is in the lower part of Regent street, on the corner of Waterloo place, within the shadow of the Duke of York column. It was one of the first houses in London to adopt the French style in name — Hotel Continental in lieu of Continental Hotel — and it was one of the first to serve a first-class dinner in the French style. The reputation for its cicisine is second to none, and the hotel prides itself upon the accuracy of the names and vintages of the wines supplied. It has the monopoly in London of that famous brand of champagne, '' Medaille cf Or," which received the grand prize in the French Exhibition of 1878 over sixty other competing wines. Cigarettes made of the finest tobacco are manufactured expressly for the hotel in Constantinople and Salonica. There is always a very gay scene in the Hotel Contin- ental supper room after the theatres close ; it might be- come too lively in the early hours of the morning, but the police regulations oblige such places as the Contin- ental to close their doors at one A.M. Dinner from seven-and-six to twelve-and-six, without wine, of course ; for although you are in the Continental you are not on the Continent. A. Y. Wilson is the manager. More attention is given to " the inner man " in London than in any other place I wot of. They seem to live to eat there, not eat to live, and yet some one has noted this difference — you eat dinner in London, while in Paris 54 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. you dine. Mention the subject of restaurants in London and the majority will ask you, ''Have you dined at Verrey's in Regent street? " Yes, I've been to Verrey's and I found it very expensive, and very gloomy, not to say oppressive. You are in the middle of the house and the room is lighted from a skylight. It is not cheerful. Near Verrey's, at 227 Regent street, is Elphinstone's, an attractive "pastrycook shop," where cakes, coffee, ices or a sandwich are served quickly and neatly. Blan chard's, ''The Burlington," 169 Regent street, is patronized by the higher classes. Dinner from five shillings to twelve-and-six. No higher priced dinner in London. For a healthful, nicely-served meal, whether it consist of a mutton chop and a boiled potato or a dinner of several courses, much better than most of the establish- ments in Regent street is the Cafe Royal, at No. 68 Regent street. In the ' ' Grand Cafe Restaurant Royal, " where dinner is served, prices rule high. For luncheon go into the " Grill Room " of the Cafe Royal. You will find the rates reasonable, the food of the best, the ap- pointments on a grand scale, and the service satisfac- tory. These remarks will also apply to "The Monico," at Piccadilly Circus and Shaftesbury avenue. The St. James Restaurant, which extends from Picca- dilly to Regent street, with entrances on both streets, is a large, showy place, with plenty of glitter about it, and wearing the big-sounding title of St. James Hall. The rates are not low, the food is not of the choicest quality, the service is not of the best, and the waiters may over- charge you unless you watch them closely. The charge for washing- your hands at the St. James, be you a pa- tron or not, is two-pence. This is a regular charge made by the proprietors, but if you don't also fee the man who hands you a towel or fills your basin, you might get a cold reception down-stairs the next time you call, and you may fill your own basin. WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON. 55 At the Criterion, in Piccadilly Circus, you can take your choice ; go up stairs, and the charges are higher ; down in the basement the same dishes are served at a lower price. To quote their bill, ** table d'hote three- and-six, le diner Parisien, five shillings." English people when they are thirsty drink beer, wine, or something stronger ; Americans who live in cities, American women at least, prefer something weaker, soda water, for instance, which, charged with gas, looks cool and inviting as it comes bubbling from a highly polished, silver-plated fountain. Not until re- cently could American taste in this matter be gratified in London. Now there are two ' ' American confection- eries " kept by Fuller, one, the principal establishment, at 206 Regent street ; the other, at 358 Strand, both central locations. The first is close to Oxford Circus and not far from the Langham Hotel. At Fuller's you can get ice-cream soda and * * caramels fresh every hour. " In fact, on a pleasant summer day Fuller's, in Regent street, will remind you of Huyler's on Broadv/ay, and if you are a New Yorker, you will meet many familiar faces there. If you retain a juvenile pe7ichant for pea- nuts, that taste can also be gratified at Fuller's. THE GRILL ROOM OF THE GRAND. So many of the transient guests at hotels in London are out shopping and sight-seeing, that they generally take only breakfast, or, at most, breakfast and dinner, at their hotels, always lunching wherever convenience may permit. The meals at European hotels being usually a separate charge, the hotel is a sufferer by this custom, so that at some, if not most houses, it is understood that, if you take your meals out, a higher charge will be made for your apartment. The directors of the Gordon 56 WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON, Hotels, however, have a restaurant of their own in the Grand Hotel, which is so attractive that it not only keeps together the regular guests, but allures **the outside world," and thus the *' Grill Room" of the Grand has become famous in London. While within and a part of the Grand Hotel, it is not reached by the main entrance in Northumberland ave- nue. It is at the eastern end of the building, around the corner, in the Strand, and is in what we would call in New York a basement, but no ordinary '' basement " is this, and the staircase leading to it is anything but ordinary. The Grill Room of the Grand is a well- lighted, cheerful apartment, richly carpeted and finely furnished. The chairs are comfortably upholstered, the walls are gorgeous with polished tiles, the table furni- ture is dainty, the food is of prime quality, and the tariff of charges moderate. Don't be surprised at the charge, two-pence, for wash- ing your hands in the Grill Room lavatory, and unless you occupy a room, the charge for use of lavatory in the hotel proper is three-pence ; but it is worth half a crown merely to see the lavatory, or rather the staircase and landing leading to it, so beautiful are the colored marble fountain, the eastern rugs, the fernery and the Oriental lamps, with which this lower part of the house is decorated. The view of this lower part from the marble staircase on the main floor has been called fairy- like ; it is certainly very pleasing. Strangers are not allowed the run and freedom of the hotels in Europe as they are in "the States." They can't use the smoking-room, read the newspapers, loiter about the halls, make a general rendezvous of the house and help themselves to stationery in European hotels as they do on this side. Their hotels lack some of our popular features and the excellent service and discipline of the American hotels, but, on the other hand, they are not so noisy, and are more private and home-like. WHERE TO L UNCH IN LONDON. 57 SIMPSON'S DIVAN. A Characteristic English Restaurant. — A good, plain, thoroughly wholesome English dinner is served in an appetizing way by English waiters at Simpson's, No. 103 Strand, next door to Terry's Theatre, opposite Exeter Hall. You get a bowl of good soup, a course of fish, a cut from the joint, a salad, two kinds of vege- tables; with bread and butter, a biscuit and a bit of rich Gorgonzola or dry Wiltshire cheese to wind up with, and your whole bill will be four shillings, to which add three- pence for "attendance," which is charged in the bill, and about threepence more which you will hand to the waiter. A feature of the place is that the hot joint, over a chafing dish and on a small table, is wheeled round to you, and it is there cut before your eyes and trans- ferred to your plate. You can get a lower-priced dinner in London, and higher-priced dinners where you please, but none of a better quality and none that is more satis- factory unless you demand fancy f ol de rols, indigestible entrees and French dishes made of little or nothing. Simpson's is justly celebrated for its *' fish " dinners. Both these and the meal above described are served in the middle of the day and in the evening also. On Sim- day the evening dinner only is served : the place is closed on that day until 6 P.M. Simpson's enjoys the patronage of Henry Irving and of other people famous in the theatrical world, just as it did in the last century. Henry Irving's Lyceum Thea- tre, by the way, is in the Strand, near Simpson's, but on the opposite side of the street. Not very long ago I saw D'Oyly Carte enjoying his dinner at Simpson's. This is a special compliment to the place, because that magnificent hotel, tlie Savoy, in which this theatrical manager is interested, is just around the corner from Simpson's, on the Thames Embankment. During the 58 WHERE TO LUNCH IN LONDON, summer of '91 I met at Simpson's another theatrical manager, our own Augustin Daly, with his wife. Mr. and Mrs. Daly occasionally left the Hotel Metropole, where they had apartments, to partake of one of Simp- son's substantial, well-cooked and appetizing meals. There's no Simpson now, the founder died long ago, but " Simpson's " is there yet, as it was a hundred years ago, although it is now a limited company. Howard Paul eulogizes this place, and Stephen Fiske recom- mends it. Besides being a brilliant writer on dramatic matters, Mr. Fiske has made a study of the gastronomic art, and he lived in London continuously during nine years. The reading public put faith in Stephen Fiske 's dramatic criticism ; his intimates also trust to his good taste and judgment in ordering a dinner. It is a well-known fact that changes in the employees at this establishment are seldom made. Some of the wait- ers have stood at the tables for nearly two decades, and the head waiter has been there (probably not always as head waiter) for more than thirty years. The name of this head waiter is Charles Flowerdew, so he informed me, and I can impart this piece of information — that this same Flowerdew is a character w^orth studying. There is nothing of the '* Yellowplush " type about him, but he is such a character, courteous and civil (yes, seemingly servile to an American's eye), such as Dickens delighted to draw. Mr. Flowerdew knows all the old customers at Simp- son's, and, what is of more consequence to a hungry man, he knows all the choice cuts. He will suggest the best dishes, the rare bits, and he will serve you from the joint ad libitum, as he proudly remarks. When next you go to London, go to Simpson's, 103 Strand. You will be sure to meet a few London notabilities, you will be sure of a good dinner, and last, but by no means least, you will see the polite and dignified Mr. Charles Flowerdew. Managing director, E. W. Cathie. o H 01^ RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN ENGLAND. While our facilities in railway travelling have wonder- fully improved in the past ten years, it must not be supposed that in conservative England they have stood still entirely. But the improvements in carriage accom- modation there have been so steady and gradual that passengers hardly recognize how much more they get for their money now than they did a generation back. For instance, the old first-class carriage of forty years ago was fifteen feet long, six and a half feet broad, and less than five feet high, and this was constructed to seat eighteen passengers ; in other words, each person had about twenty-six cubic feet of space. In the carriages built to-day to accommodate ten first-class passengers, each one has ninety cubic feet. Nor because we in America have such luxurious Pull- man and Wagner cars must it be imagined that the English railway carriages have not comforts and luxuries of their own. Some carriages, for example, have com- partments which are built to seat only two or three per- sons, thus securing complete privacy to a party of that number. I have never occupied a more comfortable railway com- partment than in going, as I did, last September, from Edinburgh to London over the lines of the Caledonian and London and North Western railways, on the world- famous train called the ''Flying Scotchman" — and a flyer it is. The distance is four hundred miles, and it is run in eight and one-half hours. You leave lCdinl)nrgli at 10.15 A.M. and reach Euston square before 7 i'. m. As there are several important stations between the two cities at which long steps are made, the train must 60 RAIL WA V TRA V EL LING IN ENGLAND. make between many of the stations much more than fifty miles an hour. The speed was so great at times that it caused unusual vibration, and at times it gave me a slight reminder of sea-sickness. The compartment was built to seat two persons. In it there were two large, softly-upholstered, sleep-inviting arm-chairs, one on each side of the car. B.etween the two chairs at the back was a door leading to a lavatory for the sole use of the two passengers. It was supplied with iced-water, washing water, towels, mirror and all the etceteras and conveniences that are desirable in travelling. The compartment had six windows — two at each side and two in front. Between the two front windows was a handsomely-framed bevelled mirror. The floor was richly carpeted and the compartment was supplied with a number of brass brackets and hooks for the travellers' impedimenta. But more than this — across the front, breast high, was a shelf about six inches wide to hold books and papers, and below this another shelf about the same width for a foot-rest. The compartment was seven feet square and seven feet high. Here a man and wife or two friends can make themselves about as comfortable as if they were at home in their own drawing-room. You exchange your shoes for slippers, don your smoking jacket and if your com- panion does not object, you can enjoy a fragrant Havana. To be sure this is against the rules of the company and your indulgence in the weed would cost you forty shil- Ungs if you were found out, but the distances are great and the stops few on this '* flying Scotchman," so there is ample time to enjoy a smoke on the sly. No extra fare is demanded for this most luxurious vehicle ; it is simply ranked as a flrst-class carriage, but you had bet- ter write to the station master and engage such a com- partment a day or two in advance of your intended journey, for not more than one of these small compart- ments is by chance attachcrl even to a " flying Scotch- RAIL IV A V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 61 man." No extra charge is made for this engagement in advance. The complaint years ago that passengers were locked in the cars can seldom now be made. The custom is almost entirely abolished ; it caused so many accidents. The aim of each and every passenger on a British rail- way is to secure a seat with his back to the engine. In this way he avoids draughts of air : draughts from a bottle they never object to. In fact both men and women drink often and deeply during a journey, but it does not seem to affect them. Time tables are not given away as with us : the charge is a penny, two cents. You never hear " all aboard " at railway stations, but the much pleasanter sounding words, "take your seats, please." LUGGAGE AND BAGGAGE. You do occasionally get a paper check or receipt for baggage on a continental railway, but in England seldom or never. Still a piece of baggage is seldom lost on an English railway. It gets to its proper destination at last, but it seems to be more by good luck than Dy good management. Baggage, or " luggage," as they term it, goes astray sometimes, but on the other hand, the system for tracing and finding it is excellent. They have a "lost luggage " department in the principal stations. They are very particular as to the quantity of bag- gage. Each passenger is allowed so many pounds. At every station there is an official who keeps a sharp eye on the porters who handle trunks, and at the slightest suspicion of overweight the official will order a trunk or. the scales with which all stations are supplied. There are strong racks in every car for light luggage, but a great deal of what we should term heavy baggage 62 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. finds its way on the racks and under the seats. English- men travel with an extraordinary quantity of impedi- menta. They carry large satchels, also portmanteaus resembling a good-sized trunk — all because no checks are given. Everybody wants to keep his luggage in hand or in sight. There is a prominent sign posted in some of the large stations to this effect: * 'Any porter who is discovered accepting a fee will be instantly dismissed." And yet you won't get your trunk moved an inch without drop- ping a few coppers into a porter's hand. The fee sys- tem prevails everywhere, from the station master who furnishes information to the uniformed porter who whistles for a "four-wheeler" or hansom. In many cases the door of the toilet room is only unlocked by dropping a penny in a slot. But this is a better arrange- ment than exists at stations on the continent, where an old woman stands guard, whom you must fee before you are allowed to leave. A ROYAL RAILWAY TRIP. When the Queen of England makes a railway journey it is an event of no ordinary importance. With her it is not, as with the President of the United States for example, so simple a matter as climbing up the steps of a Pullman or getting into a Pennsylvania Florida special or Chicago limited, and proceeding without fuss. No, when Queen Victoria is about to travel preparations are made long beforehand and all the regular arrangements of the road are subservient to the accommodation of the royal train. When Her Majesty journeyed by the Caledonian Rail- way from Carlisle to Aberdeen, en route to Gosport and Ballater, many days previous there was issued the table RAIL IV A V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. 63 of instructions for working the trains over the Hne on that day. They were intended for the use of the company's employees only, who were forbidden to make known their contents. A pilot engine was sent over the road twenty minutes before the royal train, in charge of the foreman of the locomotive department. This engine maintained throughout the journey the uniform interval of twenty minutes. No other train, engine or vehicle, except passenger trains, was permitted to travel on the other track between the passing of the pilot and the royal train, and even passenger trains had to slow down to ten miles per hour. One of the orders issued was this : *' Drivers of such trains as are standing on sidings or adjoining lines, waiting for the passing of the royal train, must pre- vent their engines from emitting smoke or making a noise by blowing off steam when the royal train is passing." Brakesmen were enjoined to see that nothing pro- jected from their trains. Each foreman plate-layer, or •'section-boss," as we would say, after examining his length of line, stationed himself at the south end and an assistant at the north ; after the pilot had passed they walked till they met, seeing that all was right. The stations were kept clear and the public admitted at one station only, the last. Even here, cheering or other demonstration was forbidden, "the object being that Her Majesty should be perfectly undisturbed during the journey." These instructions, signed by James Thompson, general manager, and Irvine Kempt, gen- eral superintendent, were obeyed in their minutest de- tail. It must not be supposed that the company has to pocket the loss when the Queen travels. The royal lady not only does not travel on "passes," but she pays all expenses incurred. A copy of the instructions printed in gold are presented to the Queen and she can- 64 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. not fail to be gratified by the care and thought exhibited by the company. The entire mileage of the Caledonian Railway is one thousand miles ; the main line from Carlisle to Aber- deen, over which the queen travelled, is about two hundred and forty miles. It traverses a beautiful coun- try. From this great trunk run out branches and connections by steamer in all directions — reaching to all big towns of the country, most of the small ones, and all the districts famed in Scottish song or history, the highlands, the lochs, the seaboard, etc. The road is a model road and one of the best appointed in Great Britain. The tourist, the student and the sportsman are offered strong inducements to avail themselves of the tours arranged by the Caledonian company. THE NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY. One of the largest English railway systems is that of the London and North Western. The territory covered by this railway extends from London in the south to Carlisle in the north, and from Cambridge in the east to Holyhead in the west — aia area of three hundred miles in breadth. The main office of the government is in London, but the capital, so to speak, is Crewe, a town of thirty-five thousand inhabitants, consisting entirely of the employees of the railway and their families. The total number in the railway's service does not fall far short of sixty thousand. The annual budget amounts to ten million pounds, while the funded debt has reached a total of one hundred million pounds sterling. The London and North Western shops at Crewe have to keep in repair a stock of engines that is worth fivid million pounds sterling, and while they do not indeed put a girdle round the earth every forty minutes, they RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IX ENGLAND. 65 do literally every four hours, and in doing so the en- gines consume a million tons of coal per annum. On an average, it is reckoned that every five days an old en- gine is withdrawn and replaced by a new one. Of late years the company has been experimenting on an extensive scale with a system of metallic permanent way. Steel '* keys " fasten the rails into steel '* chairs," which in their turn are riveted down to steel sleepers. About thirty miles of line has been laid on this system, with about sixty thousand sleepers. So far the results are understood to be satisfactory. The question in- volved in the conflict between steel and wooden sleep- ers is gigantic. A rough calculation shows that to re- place the wooden sleepers on existing lines in Great Brit- ain only would require about four million tons of steel, without reckoning the weight of the chairs and keys. And great Britain has only one-fifteenth of the railway mileage of the world. In some ways the '* goods " traffic arrangements of the road at Liverpool are even more remarkable than those in London. At Liverpool the North Western has six goods stations, two of them reached by tunnels each a mile and a quarter in length, constructed for their use alone. One of these stations, Edgehill, is called a goods "yard," but this yard contains fifty-seven and a half miles of land, covers two hundred acres of ground, and has cost about two million pounds sterling — nearly ten millions of dollars. The conductors on the New York street cars, like the New York policemen, are sullen and sour ; they seem ill-tempered, if not ill-natured. You seldom or never 5 see a smile on their lips, and as for giving utterance to the common and easy phrase, " lluink you," when they receive a fare, they wouldn't be guilty of such a piece of politeness ; not they. It is different in England, on the Continent, every- where in Europe. Whether on a steam road, a steam- 66 RAIL WA V TRA VELLING IN ENGLAND. boat, a tram or an omnibus, no officer or conductor would think of receiving a fare without thanking a pas- senger audibly, and even when an officer opens the door or looks into the window of a carriage for the pur- pose of examining tickets, you will not hear the short, sharp, curt demand, ** tickets," as in the States, but ** all tickets, please," in a pleasant and agreeable tone. AN ENGLISH RAILWAY GUARD. THE CRYPT OF ST. PAUL'S. All Americans who go to London visit Westminster Abbey, and some of them make more than one visit. There is a rare charm about the grand old pile. I never go to London without visiting the Abbey, and this was also the custom of the late Aaron J. Vander- poel, with whom I had the honor of crossing once or twice. On one voyage westward, a fellow passenger was James R. Cuming, of the famous law firm of Van- derpoel, Cuming and Goodwin. Mr. Cuming and I were fellow students in the old law firm of Brown, Hall and Vanderpoel in the days of District Attorney Blunt, never-mind-how-many years ago. Mr. Cuming's hair is now tinged with gray, but he has the same genial, agreeable qualities, and he is just as modest, eminent and successful lawyer though he now is, as he was when he and I were boys together in the Broadway Bank building on the corner of Broadway and Park place. But none of this personal matter has aught to do with the subject in hand. I was about to say that while all Americans go to Westminster Abbey to see the monuments and other in- teresting things, all of them do not know that two of England's greatest men, her most renowned heroes of modern times, are buried in St. Paul's Cathedral— Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. One reason why American and other tourists who visit St. Paul's seldom see the tombs of these great men is because they do not know that the cathedral contains them. The tombs are in the crvpt. and un- 07 '^ 68 THE CRYPT OF ST PAUL'S, less you knock on the great iron gates leading to the crypt and pay a sixpence, you cannot obtain ad- mission. But besides the tombs of these two celebrities, a num- ber of other eminent Englishmen lie buried in the cathedral. Among the monuments (over their tombsj may be read the names of General Gordon, Admiral Napier, Hallam, the historian. Sir Christopher Wren, the architect, and the famous artists. Sir Joshua Reynolds, Landseer, Benjamin West, and J. W. M. Turner— in fact, as there is a Poet's corner in Westminster Abbey, so there is a Painter's corner in St. Paul's Cathedral. Nelson's remains are covered by a great sarcophagus of black marble, which was intended for the tomb of Cardinal Wolsey. The Duke of Wellington is buried in a sarcophagus of porphyry, of which the upper part, forming the lid, alone weighs seventeen tons. A visit to St. Paul's discovers many other interesting things, and it is the opinion of the writer that it is one of the three grandest public buildings of modern times, the other two being the Capitol in Washington and the Palais de Justice in Brussels. The cathedral itself has an interesting history. The first vSt. Paul's Cathedral was built by Ethelbert of Kent, in the year 6io. It is said to have been destroyed by fire in 961, rebuilt and again destroyed by fire in [086, rebuilt again and for the third time destroyed by fire in 1666. The present structure was built by Sir Christopher Wren and took thirty-five years to complete, being finished in 17 10, at a cost of something like Z747.954 sterling — nearly four millions of dollars. It covers more than two acres of ground. The height from the pavement to the top of the cross is three hundred and sixty-four feet three inches. You get a good view of the building from the Thames. The best view of the building, however, is from the top of an omnibus going east down Fleet street, but this view is now some- THE CR VPT OF ST. PA UL'S. 69 what marred or obstructed by the railway arch which crosses Ludgate Circus. A few figures about the bell and the clock may not be without interest. The former, called Great Paul, weighs sixteen tons, fourteen hundredweight, two quar- ters, nineteen pounds ; height, eight feet ten inches ; diameter at base, nine feet six and a half inches ; thick- ness where the clapper strikes, eighteen and three-quar- ter inches. The clapper is seven feet nine inches long and weighs four hundredweight. The note is E flat. The clock has two faces, each nearly twenty feet in diameter. The minute hand is nine feet eight inches long and weighs seventy-five pounds ; the hour hand is five feet nine inches long and weighs forty-four pounds. The hour figures are two feet, two and a half inches long. The pendulum is sixteen feet long and to it is at- tached a weight of one hundred and eight pounds. It beats once in two seconds. THE QUEEN'S MEWS. Windsor, the royal residence, twenty-five miles from London, attracts of course many American visitors, its features of interest including, besides the castle and park, the celebrated stables. But as for stables, the Queen's Mews, near the centre of London, offer a much 4 more brilliant show. Admission is gained with little difficulty or formality — by Americans. You simply call at the American Legation in Victoria street, two or three blocks (as we'd say in New York), from the Victoria railway station — a ''penny 'bus" from Charing Cross passes the door. It is not necessary to ask for Minister Lincoln ; your card sent to Mr. White, the secretary of ^ the legation, or, in his absence, to Mr. McCormick, the courteous assistant secretary, will secure you in return the necessary pasteboard for yourself and party to visit the Queen's Mews in Buckingham Palace road — a very short walk from the legation and a stone's throw, so to speak, from Victoria station. The stables cover a few acres of ground. They con- tain the royal harness, the carriage of state and other carriages, and have stalls for about one hundred horses, in the care of all of which about thirty or forty men are employed, those longest in the service being privileged to live on the premises. There is nothing very remark- able about the horses' quarters ; the stalls are not more luxurious nor are they kept in better condition than many private gentlemen's stables in New York and Newport, nor are the horses particularly worthy of note, excepting the ten large black stallions and the cream-colored stallions, used in drawing the state car- 70 THE QUEEN'S MEWS. 71 riage on state occasions, as, for instance, when the Queen opens parliament. The tails of these stallions, the black and cream-colored, all reach to and almost sweep the ground, with the exception of one big black animal, whose brevity of appendage is made up on state occasions by the addition of a false tail. The creams are eleven in number, and it is extraor- dinary how perfectly gentle and quiet they are. The fact that a stranger can approach and examine them as closely as wished for speaks volumes for the discipline, and the care and the intelligence of the stablemen. The cream-colored horses were brought over from Hanover originally by George I., and from that time, with the exception of the period between 1803 and 18 14, w^hen Napoleon I. was in possession of that city, until 1837 they were regularly supplied from the electoral stud at Hanover. Napoleon in 1803 captured the cream-colored stud which belonged to the Elector of Hanover, and made use of eight creams at his own coronation ; so from then until his downfall in 18 14 the black horses were used on state occasions in England. Since 1837 the creams have been bred at the stud farm at Hampton Court. The harness for ordinary use is of black leather with elaborate bright brass trimmings, that for state occasions is also of black leather, the crowns and coats-of-arms, in solid metal, being heavily and richly gilded. The harness is kept in perfect condition, and kept on show, protected by glass doors and windows. You may see and admire the royal reins, but they are not to be handled by common fingers. Among the carriages there is one kept for its past his- tory and glory, not for present use— a gaudy, gilded, theatrical-looking vehicle, the weight of which is four tons, the great, heavily-tired wheels of which measure six feet in diameter, the whole being of the respectable age of one hundred and thirty years. The most beauti- 72 THE QUEEN'S MEWS, ful feature of this curious relic of by-gone days is the eight pictures set in as many panels, painted by Cipri- ani, an Italian artist famous in his day. But the carriages for Her Majesty's ordinary use and the carriage which is reserved for state occasions, which is drawn by the eight cream horses, are models of com- fort, luxury and beauty. They are upholstered with dark blue cloth, the only interior ornaments being of worsted fringe matching the cloth in color. The wheels and body are dark blue, the panels being painted in a lighter shade, the centre of each door panel relieved by the royal crest of arms painted in rich colors, but not larger in size than a silver dollar. The carriages are hung on C springs and yield from any point to the slightest touch. I ventured the remark to one of the footmen in charge that when Her Majesty places her foot on the step her weight must make quite a depression of the springs. ** Does it," said the royal flunkey ; *'you should stand 'ere when the Duchess of Teck gets in. The Queen's cousin is a werry heavy woman, God bless her. If you was to see her get in you would see a depression, or whatever you call it." You will make a mistake if on leaving the Mews you do not drop a shilling into the ready palm of both coach- man and footman. THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. Stand on the high ground, above the fountains, in Trafalgar Square, with your back to the great, grim- looking, granite block of buildings formed by the National Gallery ; behind the Nelson column ; yes, much farther back ; behind the statue of Gordon, which, while you are in that position is overshadowed by the admiral's statue. This view is pronounced by Boot's District Guide to London, and by many London writers " the finest site in Europe, " but this is an extravagant statement. While it is interesting and attractive it is by no means so open, so large, nor anything like so beautiful as the Place de la Concorde in Paris, with its very much grander and more artistic fountains, its obelisk, its many noble buildings, far and near ; the Tuileries Gardens seen in one direction and the great Arc de Triomphe, at the head of the Champs Elysees, in another. Trafalgar Square was dedicated to Lord Nelson and commemorates his glorious death in the battle of Tra- falgar, which occurred October 22, 1805, and in which the English fleet gained victory over the combined armaments of France and Spain. In the centre of the square, to the memory of the great hero, rises a massive granite column, one hundred and fifty-four feet high. It is surmounted by Baily's statue of Nelson, seventeen feet high, the capital of the column being of bronze, melted from cannon captured from the French, 'rbu four bas-reliefs at the base represent respectively the death of Nelson, by Carew ; the battle of the Nile, by 73 74 The finest sq uare in londo n 75 Woodington, the bombardment of Copenhagen, by Ternouth, and the battle of St. Vincent, by Watson. You will notice in the accompanying illustration that the admiral's sword is in his left hand, Nelson having lost his right arm. At the foot of the pedestal is in- scribed his last command : ** England expects every man this day will do his duty." To the extreme left is St. Martin Church, as the poet, William Winter, explains, "no longer in the fields." One half of each of its gray columns has been turned black, not by time, but by the quicker action of London soot. These dark shadows on the once light-colored buildings in London are offensive to some people ; to my eyes they are artistic, picturesque and uncommonly pleasing. St. Martin's was completed by Gibbs, in 1726. Its exterior, especially the Corinthian portico, is worth studying. If you have a fancy for such things and in- vestigate further, you will find here the graves of the actress, Nell Gwynn, a favorite of Charles 11. , Farquhar, the dramatist, and the notorious Jack Shepard, To your near left in the square is the equestrian statue of King George IV., holding a mace in his right hand; to your near right, on a line with this, stands a heavy, solid granite pedestal with its large capstone ready for its companion-piece — another statue, when the man and the occasion shall come. In front of the King George statue, nearer the road- way, is the life-size statue of General Henry Havelock, bearing this inscription : — To Major General vSir Henry Havelock, K. C. B. and his brave companions in arms during the campaign in India 1857. 76 THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. •'Soldiers: your labours, your privations, your sufferings, and your valour, will not be forgotten by a grateful country. " To your right, in front of the unoccupied pedestal, is a companion piece to the Havelock statue, the statue of another soldier, Sir Charles Napier, designed by Adams. To the plashing fountains below and to the four mam- moth, finely formed lions which, couchant with their fore paws crossed and mouths partly open, seem to stand a strong but silent guard over the living water, it is not necessary to direct attention. They are Sn Edwin Landseer's lions and the eye cannot escape them. This is a hotel centre. To the left, on a line with old St. Martin Church, is Morley's hotel, also old, but with a very attractive exterior all the same. On the same line, but across the bus}^ strand and extending far down Northumberland avenue, is a comparatively new hotel, with an imposing semi-circular, smooth, dark gray fagade, relieved by many light-colored window-awnings. It is the Grand Hotel, which was erected in 1880 on the site of Northumberland House. No location in London for the purpose is choicer, nor is there in London any building better constructed or better appointed for its purpose. In Northumberland avenue is the Hotel Vic- toria, known and known favorably to all Americans who visit London, A little further on, parallel with the Vic- toria, separated only by a narrow passage, is the Hotel Metropole, one of the celebrated chain of Gordon Hotels, three links of which may be found in London, one of which is the Metropole, at Brighton, others being in other parts of England and in the south of France. A little east of the Square in the Strand are both the Charing Cross Hotel and the Golden Cross Hotel. I have tried the first and it was atrial, indeed ; the second does THE FINEST SQUARE IN EON DUN. 77 not look any more inviting, so I never made the experi- ment. Pall Mall is a famous club centre, but there are several noted club houses in this locality also. Directly in view, on your right, serving as a background for the unoccu- pied, dark pedestal, loom up the light-colored walls of the Union Club ; dating from 1824. This is on what New Yorkers would call ' ' the corner of Trafalgar square and Cockspur street," but you seldom or never hear such a useful phrase in London as on the corner of this street or that avenue. It is not visible from where you are, but parallel with and next door to the Grand, on the avenue, is the build- mg of the Constitutional Club. The club has a very large membership and it is full. I know of names which were put up years ago, and which are still w^aiting their turn. The Constitutional is a popular club ; the annual dues are low. The building has a colored, ornate front, and a French roof. It is of great size, affording ample space for reading, smoking, dining and bed-rooms. There are two billiard-rooms, one for members only, and one for members who may bring a friend for a quiet game. Down the avenue, on the opposite side, below the Hotel Metropole and overlooking the gardens at its feet and the river beyond, is the National Liberal Club. It stands on a corner and its lofty tower rises twenty-two feet above the highest point of the hotel which it faces. Its interior is as grand as the exterior is imposing. No expense w^as spared in its construction, and it is worth seeing. A shilling carefully expended at the door may gain you a glance at the ground floor audits rich marble fittings, if even you be not a Liberal in politics. I tried this plan myself and it worked satisfactorily. Remain in the same spot, with your back still turned toward the National Gallery ; look straight ahead, be- yond the Nelson coknnn, and in the roadwa3\ on what 78 THE FINEST SQ UARE IN LONDON. they call in London an ** island/* you will notice an equestrian statue. It is a little the worse for wear, hav- ing been buried for many years and afterwards dug out of the earth. The tail of the horse looks like what it is, a metal tail, and it almost sweeps the ground, and stiff and square on the back of the horse sits that unfor- tunate king, Charles I. , who was unmercifully beheaded. The statue is ungainly, but England reveres things, if even they are ugly, on account of their historical asso- ciations, so King Charles is likely to remain in his un- graceful position, an offence to the eye. This same statue, however, if not beautiful, has its uses ; it marks the ** centre of London," and for that reason cab fares are reckoned from this spot. Never mind the poor animal or his rider. Artistically, they are not worth dwelling on. Let youi eye wander across them to the stirring scenes beyond. A trifle to the right there radiates from the square another street, one side of which only is .Charing Cross, the other, Whitehall. *' Scotland Yard," the former police head- quarters, is on the left ; on the right, a quarter of a mile farther, is the Admiralty; then *'the Horse Guards," which is only a gateway to St. James's Park. A little farther south, on the same side, is the Home Office, but there the avenue changes its name to Parliament street, at the southern end of which is that venerable pile, Westminster Abbey, and adjoining it are the Houses of Parliament. These, as buildings, are best seen from the river, but you will get a good view, in the distance, from where you stand, although it be half a mile from your position, of the magnificent clock-tower of the Houses of Parliament. It makes a striking picture, with the vSurrey Hills in the background. The clock-tower, which is forty feet square, rises to the elevation of three hundred and sixteen feet. The dials of the clock, which it takes two hours each week to wind, are twenty-two feet in diameter ; the hour- THE FINEST SQUARE IN LONDON. 79 hand is nine feet long, and the minute-hand, which, in spite of its tenuity weighs two cwt., is sixteen feet long. The illumination of the enamelled glass dials, each of which is provided with sixty gas jets, is ingeni- ously controlled by the clock-work, their light waning with the dawn of day and increasing with the fading twilight. I have not attempted to touch upon the interiors of the buildings mentioned. The National Gallery, for instance, upon which you have turned your back, and which Sir Charles Dilke says contains perhaps, on the whole, the finest collection of pictures in the world, ex- cept as regards modern work, might occupy your time profitably for days, but if you wish to get a cursory glance at a group of London features and buildings interesting from their historical or other associations, no other site in London offers such opportunities as the one represented in the above illustration. o < Pi P O U !^ o H &^ <^ 80 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. A Notable Outing Trip— The Hoime of Indi GENT Royalty— Victoria's Grape Vine— The Famous Maze— Bushey Park— Twicken- ham Town — Pope's Villa. To my mind one of the prettiest outings that can be easily made from London in a day is the trip to Hamp- ton Court, with its famous old palace, its gallery of one thousand pictures, and its uncommonly beautiful and highly cultivated grounds and gardens. The ways of reaching Hampton Court are many and varied. It is sixteen miles from London by rail, twenty miles by water. The cheapest and quickest way is by rail from Waterloo station ; time, forty minutes ; fare one way, one shilling and two pence (twenty-eight cents), third class ; third class being good enough for most people for so short a journey. 'Buses run on Sunday, fare one and six, and there are stage coaches which go direct for two shillings. A han- som costs about a sovereign (five dollars) for the da>- : a carriage and pair much more than that. But you can vary the journey ; go one way on wheels and one way by water. The water route is slow, and it is monotonous, also, imless you want to get a view of the upper Thames. The river is very pretty near here ; Maidenhead and Marlow not far distant. Another route is by rail from any district railway sta- tion (underground), either via Wimbledon to Hampton 81 82 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. Court direct, or via Richmond to Hampton Wick or Teddington stations. From either of the two latter it is a pleasant walk through Bushey Park. During the summer months it may be reached by rail to Putney Bridge (Fulham station), and thence direct by steam- boat, but for a stranger who wants to go direct and see Hampton Court Palace, the quickest and easiest route is the one first mentioned — the London & South West- ern Railway from Waterloo station. Besides the beauty of the rural scenery, the attractive surroundings in which the palace is set, and the mass of picturesque old buildings themselves, the associations connected therewith are notable in English history. The palace was built by the wily Wolsey, and was oc- cupied by a long line of royalty from Henry VIII. and Queen Elizabeth down to Queen Anne and the first of the Hanoverian monarchs. Apartments in the build- ings are still used by some old dames and others of title — pensioners and distant relatives of the Queen who have claims on the crown. There is not much to delight the eye inside — large, cold, stately halls, immense bed chambers, a lot of fusty tapestries, frowsy furniture (relics of departed glory), and a great many paintings, most of them ' * bad or in- different," which have only their age to recommend them. The rules by which visitors must be governed as to their moving about in the barn-like galleries are absurd, and they are unpleasantly enforced by Jacks-in-office and in livery, who are not civil. Especially to Ameri- cans are they insolent. There is no charge for admis- sion, and as there is not the slightest excuse for de- manding a fee, the attendants are not only cross, but positively rude to women. But you will not spend much time in the gloomy apartments. If the sun shines, as it does sometimes in London, you will quickly get outside the mouldering HAMPTON COURT PALACE. 83 walls to enjoy the attractive grounds, the noble trees, broad meadows and the fragrance of flowers laid out and cared for as only an English gardener can cultivate flowers, favored as he is by the moist climate. A close observer will notice signs on the flower beds which di- rect you to ** keep off the verges," as, over there, they call the borders or edges. One of the sights of the place is the Queen's grape- vine, which is tended with special care, growing under a great glass house, and from the roof of which last August, when I saw it, depended twelve hundred bunches of large grapes. I didn't count the bunches, but, having a tiny tape measure in my pocket, I did measure the trunk of the vine at its thickest point near the ground, and found it to be thirty-five inches in cir- cumference. It is as much as your liberty is worth to pluck one of these grapes ; they are all cut down for the Queen when the head gardener decides that they are ripe. In England they claim that this is the largest grape- vine in the world, but I have been privileged to see one growing in the open which surpasses it — a vine growing on an estate near " Stone Hedge," the home of my old and esteemed friend, Captain A. L. Anderson, formerly of New York, and owner of the Hudson river steamer Mary Powell, but who now resides permanently with his family in Santa Barbara, Cal. "The maze" is considered one of the features of Hampton Court, and is called the finest in the world, but for size and for confusing, intricate paths, the Hampton Court maze is also surpassed by a maze in California — on the grounds of the Hotel del Monte, in Monterey, one hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco. In that one State (California) there is almost everything to be seen in the way of natural attractions that tourists go wild over in Western Europe. California has the rivers, lakes and mountains, the floriculture, fruits, fish — ■ 84 HA MP TON COURT PALA CE. almost everything in the water, on the ground and in the air that yon find in other countries of the explored world. Its resources are apparently exhaustless, and its productions, rich and marvellous. Probably there is nothing, however, more beautiful, in its way, than Bushey Park, a tract of one thousand acres, but a step across the roadway from Hampton Court. It contains rows and rows, miles upon miles, of noble chestnut trees. To see these grand old chestnuts in May, when they are in full bloom, with their great clusters of white and pink blossoms, is to see something that will be indelibly photographed on your memory. And, yet, come to think of it, even this brilliant scene is eclipsed again in that wonderful State, California. It is excelled by the view you get of Santa Clara Valley, on a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad, while riding from Big Trees to San Jose. If you happen to go through that part of the country in March, as I did, and see the orchards of pears, plums and almonds in full bloom, you will see such profuse and gorgeous beauty in color that it will indeed be to you "a joy forever." The pretty village of Twickenham, on the west bank of the Thames, is a good long walk or a short ride from Hampton Court, through pretty country roads and shaded lanes. It is immediately opposite Richmond, with which it is connected by a handsome stone bridge. Twickenham is quiet and antiquated ; it might even be called dull, but along the river near by are many beauti- ful villas with attractive grounds. " Twickenham Ait," or Eel-pie House, on an island in the Thames, used to be a favorite resort of holiday visitors from the metro- polis. The river is narrow here and the two banks are connected by ferryboats. "Twickenham Ferry" is celebrated in song and story. I don't know who wrote the words, but there is a very sweet and spirited song entitled * ' Twickenham Ferry, " music by Marzials, which HAMPTON COirRT J' A LACE. 85 I always listen to with great pleasure, as sung by a lovely New York girl, who charms me with her beauti- ful voice. The first verse goes this way : " O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! who's for the ferry? " The briar's in bud and the sun going down ; I'll row ye so quick, and I'll row you so steady ! And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! " The ferryman's slim, and the ferryman's young, And he's just a soft twang in the turn of his tongue. And he's fresh as a pippin, and brown as a berr3^ And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham town ! " O, hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! hoi, ye-ho ! ho ! " Anybody will point out to you " vStrawbcrry Hill," famous as the home of Horace Walpole, and if you are a stranger, no driver will let you miss, in Twickenham, ''Pope's \'illa," an old-fashioned stone house with a brownish-gray front, in which the poet lived for several years. Pope, you know, was styled "The Bard oi" Twickenham." Prior to removing to Twickenham .Vlexander Pope lived with his piirents in the village of Binfield, nine miles from Windsor, and it was at Binfield that he penned "Spring, the First Pastoral." It opens with these lines : " First in these fields I try the sylvan strains. Nor blush to sport on Windsor's blissful plains ; Fair Thames, flow gently from thy sacred spring, While on thy banks vSicilian muses sing ; Let vernal airs through trembling osiers play, And Albion's cliffs resound the rural lay." " Eloise to Abelard," among other famous poems. wa> penned in this Twickenham Villa, in 17 17. when Pope was under thirty years old. In the same place he wrote "To the Memory of an Unfortunate Lady." There were two such ladies, so we read in the life of Pope, in whom he was interested, Mrs. Cope and Mrs. Weston. but his biographer does not seem to be able to settle the 86 HAMPTON COURT PALACE. question as to which one of the two it was that inspired these lines. "Pope's Villa " is occupied in summer time, or it was last summer, by Labouchere, whose London residence is at Queen's Gate. But to return to the main subject of this sketch — it may be worth telling the reader that Hampton Court Palace is open to the public free throughout the year except Fridays and Christmas Day. The hours on week days are from : April I to Sept. 30, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. October i to March 31, 10 a.m. to 4 P.M. Sundays : — 2 p.m. to 4 or 6 p.m. It is a notable fact that Hampton Court is one of the very few public places in or near London which are open on Sundays. Services in the Chapel on Sundays at 1 1 a.m. and 3.30 P.M., on Wednesday and Fridays at 10.30 a.m. The gardens, which are very attractive and tastefully laid out, and unreservedly thrown open to the public, contain several fine avenues of trees, and are open until 8 P.M. during the summer months, and until dusk the remainder of the year. LONDON ODDITIES. It serves the purpose of correspondents as well as of the postal authorities to add the postal district initials in addressing letters to London — as for instance, C, indi- cating central, or S. W. , Southwest. There are eight of these districts, and the necessity for adding the initials will be seen when one learns that in London there are no less than thirty-five King streets, thirty Queen streets, eighteen York streets, a Victoria Park in the extreme east, one Queen Victoria street, a Victoria railway sta- tion in the Southwestern district, a Hotel Victoria in the western central and a Victoria Hotel in quite another district. The postal system in London is as near perfection as it is possible to make it. Few letters go astray, and the delivery is prompt, there being from six to twelve de- liveries daily ; but by neglecting to add the initial let- ter of the district a letter may be delayed several hours. There are three thousand offices and pillar boxes in London, but in addressing letters take care and take into consideration that there are nearly six millions of people in London, that the streets and squares cover eight thousand acres, and within a radius of fifteen miles of Charing Cross seven hundred square miles are cov- ered. Correspondence between England and the United States also shows wonderful increase. Ten years ago the number of letters which annually passed between the two countries was eight millions ; at present the number is twenty-four millions. Reduction of postage rates has of course had something to do with this great increase and it will bear further reduction. 87 88 LONDON ODDITIES, I happened to be near Euston station and wanted to go to my hotel in Northumberland avenue. I stepped into a hansom, and not wishing to be taken for a stranger I simply said ''Victoria Hotel." In five minutes Mr. Cabbie pulled up in front of what seemed to be a gin palace, bearing the sign plain enough, "Victoria Hotel." " I want the hotel in Northumberland avenue," I said to the driver. '' Then why didn't you say Hotel Victoria," was the quick response, and cabbie charged me a fare and a half to emphasize the distinction. The growth of London is something marvellous. More than ten thousand houses annually, or, it may be roughly stated, one thousand houses every month, are added to London. In August of 1889, 754,464 houses were supplied with water by the water companies, or 11,113 below the number in the same month of 1890. In September, 1890, the companies had to supply 10,976 houses more than in September of 1889. In August of that year 765,577 houses were supplied with water, and in September, 1891, that number had increased to The London police are a pleasant, polite set of men, and if they do not refuse the price of a pint of beer for a slight service, neither will they refuse to answer any question, respectfully and satisfactorily. The contrast is very striking between these good-tempered, obHging officers, and the sullen, saucy, sour-visaged, tobacco- chewing New York policeman who is just as ready to answer with his club, which he carries exposed, as he is with his uncivil tongue. London policemen are paid from six to seven and a half dollars per week : New York policemen from sixteen to twenty-four dollars weekly. A London police sergeant gets only ten dollars a week. Sixpence for a Play Bill. — At the Prince of Wales Theatre and at the Shaftesbury you are charged six- pence for a bill of the play, and at the majority of London LONDON ODDITIES. 89 theatres you pay for a programme. The exceptions are Irving's Lyceum and D'Oyly Carte's Savoy, where no employee is allowed to accept a fee of any kind — not if the manager knows it. That does not say, however, that a **tip" for a programme is unexpected, even at the two houses named. Civility and vServility. — There's a difference be- tween civility and servility. You are pleased to have an omnibus conductor audibly *' thank you " when you hand him your fare, but in the London shops a sales- n^oman will do the same thing even when you make no purchase. At the pleasant Nayland Rock Hotel in Mar- gate, on the south coast of England, a waiter will thank you for allowing him to put a clean plate before you, or when he hands you a glass of water — if you can get such a thing as water at your meals in an English hotel. It is not obtainable without a little trouble ; everybody drinks wine. Soot, Soot, Everywhere. — Owing to the use of soft coal in London, white buildings are soon changed into black ones, partiall3^ This change, especially where one side of a set of Corinthian columns, for instance, remains the original color, and the other side has grad- ually turned very dark, gives some of the churches and public buildings a picturesque and pleasing appearance. Yellow brick is very largely used, but it soon changes color. If you place a tumbler of water outside your window at night with the idea of keeping it cool, for you rarely see a piece of ice, you will find a number of tiny. globules of soot floating on the surface of the water in the morning. And it is exceedingly difficult in London to make weather prognostications, the sun be- ing usually hidden or half-hidden by London smoke, if not by fog. Exchanging Compliments. — Englishmen say ''as drunk as a Scotchman," and Scotchmen have a saying '* as durr as an Englishman. " " Durr " impHes something 90 LONDON ODDITIES. more than quiet : it means surly, sullen. It cannot be denied that English tourists are unusually quiet : they seldom speak without having been formally introduced. That reminds me that two or three years ago I was travelling on the Midland road from London to I/iver- pool, and I happened to make some casual remark to a fellow traveller who was a stranger to me. The gen- tleman replied very briefly but courteously, and then added : *' Beg pardon, you hail from the other side, do you not? " " Yes, but why do you ask?" ** If I didn't detect it in your accent," said my neighbor, **I should know it because you addressed me. I have been trav- elling between London and Liverpool now for many years, and I am never spoken to but by an American, and I rather like it." There are no '' cross-walks," as we call them, in the cities of Great Britain ; none are needed. Nor does anybody cross the street at right angles, as we do in New York. Everybody crosses diagonally, from corner to corner, or crosses in the middle of the block. The road-ways are* so smooth and well paved that all parts are alike, and it is never necessary to pick your way. In New York, besides exercising great vigilance to pre- vent being knocked down and run over by vehicles, you must always keep one eye on the ground while cross- ing. You may be upset by a car track, or you may step between two stone blocks that are a foot apart, more or less. As T(j Oysters. — English oysters still retain their flavor, a great deal of flavor ; in fact they have entirely too much — that is to say, too much for anybody whose palate is not accustomed to the peculiar taste. You can get oysters as low as a shilling a dozen, but choice " Whitstables," that have a strong, coppery flavor, come as high as four shillings a dozen. For the uneducated American palate, Chesapeake oysters, or the Great South Bay blue points are good enough. LONDON ODDITIES, 91 Servants' Wages. — Servant girls' wages in England are not nearly so high as they are in the United States. Even hotel chambermaids, who are paid better than family servants, only receive fourteen pounds sterling a year — about seventy dollars, but each one is allowed a fortnight's holiday (with pay) at the end of the summer. And the ** tips " they receive from the guests are well worth consideration. There are differences between the habits of London and New York women and here is one of the minor points : New York women go " shopping," that is to say they go into one store after another to examine the goods, as a diversion or pastime ; English women never enter a shop without the intention to purchase ; they make a business and not a pastime of replenishing their wardrobe. To go on a shopping tour American women often wear fine gowns and rich jewelry ; English women on the contrary, dress very plainly when engaged in their business of purchasing. They reserve their fine clothes for the opera or for receptions, wearing no extra finery even for ordinary visiting. They are not seen parading the streets in silks and satins, and that is why some American writers who do not observe closely say that" English women in ttie street dress in dowdy style." No *' FoRELADiES" IN LONDON. — At the great dry- goods house and outfitting establishment of Debenham & Freebody, in Wigmore street, not far from the Lang- ham Hotel, all the saleswomen are expected, nay, are obliged to dress in black. They number two hundred, but not a ** saleslady " nor a " forelady " among them. They make derision of these terms, which are so com- monly heard in New York. The firm also employs six or seven hundred young men. All the uninarried em- ployees live on the premises, and this plan is found to operate satisfactorily to all concerned. The young men wear black coats, waistcoats and neckties. Many years ago salesmen in London dry goods houses were not 92 LONDON ODDITIES, allowed to wear a moustache, but there is more liberty now and they can adorn their faces as fancy dictates. You don't hear the words, corsets, dresses nor pounds, in London shops of the first class, such as Kate Reily's, Debenham & Freebody's or Redfern's. They have gone back to the old-fashioned term — stays, gowns and guineas. English merchants favor the last term because a guinea is worth a shilling more than a pound. Customs in Art Galleries Abroad and at Home. — The British National Gallery, in Trafalgar square, Lon- don, like our Metropolitan Museum of Art and like nearly all galleries in different parts of the world, is only open free on certain days of the w^eek, while the great French collection at the Louvre, in Paris (probably the largest and most valuable collection of pictures under one roof) is always free, and may be visited without application to any circumlocution office. The Louvre is open six days of every week in the year ; only on Mondays are the public not admitted, the officers reserving Monday for repairs and cleaning. In nearly all of the public galleries of Europe, as in the Corcoran gallery in Wash- ington, you are obliged to leave your umbrella or walk- ing stick in charge of an official at the door and for the care of such an article a fee is charged in some places ; at the Louvre you may carry into the galleries as many umbrellas and bundles as you please. This is not al- ways an advantage : for my part I am only too glad to be relieved of my umbrella and overcoat on such occasions. It seems strange that men while viewing pictures in the foreign galleries should persist in wear- ing their hats — it seems strange to a New Yorker ; the custom being so different at our Academy of Design. Police Uniform. — The New York police are fine- looking and their uniform is handsome — handsomer and probably better fitted for the purpose than the police uniform adopted in any other country. The London poHce look odd in their helmets and their coats, which I LONDON ODDITIES. 93 are too short in the skirt. Instead of rubber coats they wear a cape in inclement weather, which only protects the shoulders. But if the London police look clumsy and awkward what can be said of the Paris police ? Simply that they look silly. With their military cap and sword they resemble soldiers, somewhat. In sum- mer they wear linen trousers which are cut very loose, and instead of allowing freedom of movement, this waste of material seems to retard their progress. It is a funny sight to see one of these gendarmes running at full speed {^Iiis full speed) after a flying malefactor. Their side-arms, capes and baggy trousers are very much in the way. The New York police act like brutes at times, but they are at least a fine-looking body of men, and in times of public emergency it must be admitted they show courage and perform good service. When men at London places of amusement remove their hats, they seem to do it reluctantly. They will enter a theatre and enter a box, remove their overcoat and gloves, take out opera glass, and spread the play bill before them, and then, as a last thought, if they think about it at all, the hat will be slowly removed ; they seem to be unwilling to part with it. How different in American theatres, where every man quickly doffs his hat the moment he enters the door of the audito- rium. It is all the more noticeable in London theatres because the women are obliged to remove their hats be- fore entering, and excepting at the Lyceum, the vSavoy, and possibly one or two other houses, they are obliged to pay for their care. In France you see a great number of young, and some very old women working in the streets and in the fields ; in Germany women shovel and put in coal ; in Paris they go into harness and draw hand-carts and barrows ; in Switzerland they drag small carts harnessed along- side of dogs. You will often see a dog and a woman 94 LONDON ODDITIES, harnessed to a fruit or milk wagon. In England they go into barrooms and stand up with men and drink — and get drunk. Kew Gardens. — Kew is not only the most popular and favorite resort of the London holiday maker, but a place unique among public institutions of its kind and of special value to the horticulturist and the botanist. Eighty thousand visitors have passed its gates in one day. The gardens are open free on week-days from noon (bank holidays lo A. M.), and on Sundays from i P. M. until sunset. The gardens and houses form part of the grounds attached to the Royal Palace, a favorite residence of George III. The Palm House, said to be the largest glass building in the world, except the Crystal Palace, contains some of the most beautiful tropical palms and plants, ferns, fern trees and cacti, while in the other tropical houses there is a splendid collection of orchids, and other treasures of southern climates, including the gigantic "Victoria Regia"lily. The gardens contain an endless profusion of trees, shrubs, flowers and ferns of temperate regions, and flora of almost every land and clime. The names and descriptions will be found in most cases attached to the various specimens. The museums contain many valu- able specimens, and much to amuse, interest and in- struct, while the contiguity of the River Thames, with the view of Brentford and Isle worth, makes a trip to the Gardens a delightful day's outing. Trains run direct every half-hour from all parts of the District Railway and its connections to Kew Gardens station. The journey may be varied in the summer by travel- ling to Putney Bridge station, and thence by steamboat from adjoining pier to Kew Bridge. Richmond. — You can drive to Richmond on the Thames by cab or carriage, but a quick and cheap way is by train. There is a half-hourly service of trains connecting Richmond with all parts of the District Rail- LONDON ODDITIES. 95 way and its connections, and through rail tickets are issued at cheap fares from all stations. A steamboat runs daily in the summer months from Putney Bridge pier at II. 15 A.M., and through tickets by rail and boat, via Putney Bridge station, can be obtained at all Dis- trict Railway stations. The attractions of Richmond are : Richmond Park, nearly equal in area to the whole of the London Parks, containing ornamental waters and herds of deer. The view of the river and valley of the Thames from Richmond Hill and Terrace, described by Sir Walter Scott as '*an unrivalled landscape," is now rendered more delightful by the recently thrown open grounds of Buccleuch Park. The River Thames for all boating trips. Distance up the river to Teddington Lock three miles ; to Kingston Bridge five miles ; down to Kew Bridge three miles. Windsor Castle and Windsor Park. — One of Her Majesty's residences ; twenty-one miles from London — forty-five minutes from Paddington station. The at- tractions of Windsor are great. The Round Tower, from the top of which a splendid view of the surround- ing country may be had, is open to the public daily, except Sunday ; from 1 1 to 3 in winter and 1 1 to 4 in summer. St. George's Chapel may be viewed any day except Wednesday, between 12.30 and 4 p.m. The Al- bert Chapel is open every Wednesday, Thursday, Fri- day and Saturday from 12 noon to 3 p.m. The State Apartments, during the absence of the Court, are open to the public daily (except Wednesday). Tickets, ob- tainable at the Lord Chamberlain's Stores, Winchester Tower, Castle Yard, Windsor, on presentation of your card or name. The Private Apartments can be viewed only by special order— rarely granted — of the Lord Chamberlain. One may revel to his heart's delight in the green luxury and imsurpassed beauties of nature in the Home and Great Parks ; while a stroll through the Lon;; Walk, the longest avenue of trees in the kingdom, to the 96 LONDON ODDITIES. picturesque ruins and beautiful scenery of Virginia Water gives a good idea of the princely residence and the lovely country which surrounds it. Eton College is within easy walk of Windsor Castle. You hear a great deal about Charing Cross in Lon- don, but you may look in vain for a street sign bearing that name. Very few people in London know exactly where it is, nor does even the policeman on the ** beat " know. Strange to say, neither the Charing Cross Hos- pital, the Charing Cross Station, nor the Charing Cross Hotel is in Charing Cross. Much as it is talked about, it is a very short street, extending easterly only from Cockspur street, then southerly, past the equestrian statue of Charles L to Scotland Yard or Whitehall. Low's Exchange is in Charing Cross, and within two or three hundred feet of that house (No. 57), is the very cen- tre of the city of London. From this spot cab fares are reckoned. Start from here and you can ride anywhere, within a radius of two miles, for one shilling. Low's Ex- change, by the way, is a very popular rendezvous in Lon- don for Americans. It is where they ''most congre- gate," and it ofEers many conveniences for travellers. POVERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. The drinking habit among men and among women and girls still remains the curse of Great Britain, and its companion, poverty, is everywhere. But if the poverty is striking and awful to behold, its next-door neighbor, charity, God be praised, aims to keep pace with it. Hos- pitals and other philanthropic institutions supported by voluntary contributions, are to be seen almost wherever the eye turns in the United Kingdom. The patriotic and other public funds, to meet special emergencies at home and abroad, may well challenge the world's admiration, not only for the princely amounts subscribed, but also for the hearty and expeditious way in which the funds are raised. The charitable institu- tions of the city of London number upwards of one thousand, and simply of asylums for the aged (colleges, hospitals and almshouses), there are one himdred and twenty distinct institutions. But to return to the drinking habit, which presents itself before you constantly : I was riding up to London from Margate with a hotel-keeper, at whose house, on th(^ edge of the surf, I had been staying for a week, and 1 remarked that the drinking water at Margate was of good quality. *' Ls it ? " -said Mr, Knaggs, for this is the name of the agreeable gentleman who presided f^>v three years over the destinies of the Nayland Rock Hotel. •' Is it ? " said mine host. *' Well, you know nv >vc about it than I do, for I've never tasted it." On Sunday, while at dinner at Philp's Cockburn Hotel. Edinburgh, just before dessert was served, a small box was passed around the table by a waiter and into it 97 98 PO VERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. people were dropping sixpences, shillings and pieces of higher denomination. At once it occurred to me, here's another overcharge or extra I had not counted on, and I began inwardly to rebel. ** What's this for ? " I blurted out in a rather injured tone. ' ' Collection for the Orphan School, sir," and I gladly added my mite. Afterwards I saw money boxes- in hotels and restaurants in other parts of Scotland and in England labelled, for example, ''For Charing Cross Hospital; funds urgently needed," etc. Little boys and young women go about the busy and better parts of London on Sundays with boxes in their hands, begging you to * * drop a penny in " for this charity or that — and you find it very hard, indeed, in London to keep any coppers in your pocket, so strong are the ap- peals. On hospital days the number of hospital boxes is largely increased temporarily. At this time sheets are spread in churchyards, into which people throw their spare change liberally. ''The People's Palace," which was opened by the Queen in jubilee year, is a noble illustration of the char- itable English heart. The "People's Palace " is situated in one of the poorer quarters of London, and, as every- body knows, is the realization of an ideal conception of Walter Besantin his novel, "All Sorts and Conditions of Men." The palace includes a well-stocked library; a reading-room, supplied with papers from all parts of the world ; a large swimming bath and a hall for musical and literary entertainments. In the basement of one of the main buildings boys are taught trades by which they may earn their living. That the recipients of all this good may not feel that they are objects of cold charity, a slight charge per month is made for those who use the reading-room, library, swimming bath, etc., and there is a nominal charge, about four cents each person, for admission to the concerts and lectures, which are given gratuitously by musicians and lecturers of celebrity. PO VERTY AND CHARITY IN ENGLAND. 99 I visited that part of the Whitechapel neighborhood which "Jack the Ripper" made infamous as the scene of his murders. It was a vile place three years ago, but the scene has been changed as if by a fairy hand. The Baroness Rothschild opened wide her heart and purse and erected here, for the poor of this unfortunate quar- ter, blocks of modern model tenements. These she lets at very low rents, asking only three per cent, return for her investment. In connection with the tenements the noble woman has built a well-appointed *'Club and Library," with billiard-room, etc., for the amusement of her tenants. These premises are in charge of a custodian and his wife, who are paid for their services by the Baroness ; and for the use of the " Club and Library " a merely nominal charge is made to any of the tenants who avail themselves of the privilege. It is not sectar- ian. In England they believe in ** Faith, Hope and Charity," and of these three that ''the greatest is Charity." MARGATE, AN ENGLISH WATERING PLACE. I was ill in London, at the Windsor Hotel in the sum- mer of 1890, and as my friend Dr. Walter M. Fleming of Nev/ York happened to be in London at the time, at the Savoy Hotel, I sent for him. The fact is that I had been receiving too much ''attention" from my friends — dinners, drives, concerts, theatres, suppers, etc., all of which resulted in physical and nervous exhaustion. Dr. Fleming's prescription was simple — ''rest and a change of air," but as this was Dr. Fleming's first visit to England, I began to question my friends and others as to the best pharmacy at which to have the prescrip- tion filled. The proprietor of the Windsor Hotel, Mr. J. R. Cleave, said "Margate ; " so, too, said the intelligent manager of the house, Mr. Mann. An old and trusted friend wrote me, " Don't go to Margate, go to Brighton or to Hastings." Thus opinions differed. I knew all about Brighton and wanted to see a place new to me. I was much inclined to go to Hastings, but a concen- sus of opinion prevailed in favor of Margate. " There's a beautiful air at Margate," is the response of everyone in England to whom you speak of that place, from the boys at Low's exchange in Charing Cross to Mr. R. Whiteing, a writer on the London Daily News. This remark was also made to me by Major Arthur Griffiths, an English author and litterateur, who is known and esteemed on both sides of the Atlantic. So to Margate I went. Margate is on the south coast of England, seventy-five miles from London, whence it is reached by the London, 100 MARGATE, 10 1 Chatham and Dover Railway. This is the road celebrated for the beautiful rural scenery that borders it ; it passes through the prettiest parts of Kent, '*the garden of England," through Rochester and Canterbury, famous for their cathedrals, and other places of historic and scenic interest. You may also reach Margate by steamer from London Bridge. It is a pleasant sail on the Thames of ninety-three miles. Having arrived at Margate, you can make it the starting point for many a delightful excursion. Boul- ogne on the French coast, for instance, across the chan- nel, is directly opposite Margate ; steamer fare round trip, six shillings — a dollar and a half. Other pleasant excursions are made to Canterbury and to Ramsgate. To these places run ' * pleasure vans " accommodating twenty persons and the fare ranges- from threepence to a shilling, according to the style of vehicle. If you do not care to patronize the pleasure vans, you may hire a victoria at two shillings per hour. Canterbury is the site of the famous cathedral. At Ramsgate lived the Jewish philanthropist, Sir Moses Montefiore, for nearly the length of his long and useful Hfe — one hundred years. Another interesting excursion is to the old-fashioned village of Broadstairs, for many years the home of Charles Dickens. The house Dickens occupied and which he called '* Bleak House," still stands on its com- manding site at the top of the cHff s directly overlooking the sea. A description of Bleak House, with illustra- tion, appeared in the Home Journal in January, 1891. and has been widely copied in this country as well as in England. Broadstairs is only a five-mile drive from Margate, fare by victoria four shillings. Few Americans who cross the ocean go to Margate, but they may spend a couple of days or a couple of weeks there with advantage. Margate is a town with a history. Its foremost historical feature is the Church of 102 MARGATE. St. John, built in 1050. It has seen the rise of Norman, Plantagenet and Tudor dynasties and still stands, the oldest of England's possessions. In the time of Queen Anne, according to the chronicler, to be buried in a sheet cost sixpence, and a shilling was the extravagant price of a coffin, but the honor of being buried from St. John's Church cost two shillings more! Marriage banns were to be had at St. John's for three-and-six. Modern Margate is one of England's most popular watering-places. There are many pleasant walks and some fine buildings. One of the pleasure resorts is the ocean pier. Here, three times a week, a large band of picked musicians perform a good programme giving a promenade concert directly over the breakers. It is the boast of the Britisher that his government is '* parental;" it not only assumes to take charge of the individual, but it does in many particulars compel him • to take care of himself. If, for instance, you are caught boarding or leaving a moving train you are fined "forty shillings " (ten dollars) — a favorite sum for a fine, by the way, is that same forty shillings. The pier at Margate would seem to be an exception to the rule of safety ; it cannot be called absolutely safe at night. The boat landing below is reached by several flights of wide stairs, and the lowest flight is open and unguarded, not only in daytime but also at night. In ad- dition to this the lower part of the pier is not lighted at all, and it would be the easiest thing in the world on a dark night to walk off by accident into the water. Why more accidents and loss of life do not occur is surpris- ing. Twopence admits you to the pier, and it is a popular democratic resort. At night the scene near the pier is a lively one. Street restaurateurs, their barrows ablaze with flambeaux, line the highway and drive quite a business selling plates of oysters, mussels, cockles and snails, which are more or less tempting. 103 104 MARGATE. If you are fond of sea bathing by all means go to Margate. There is no high-rolling surf, but if you are a swimmer you will be all the better pleased. There are no ropes to lay hold of, none are necessary ; you bathe in perfect safet}^ and comfort, and, as at all English resorts, you bathe from a '* machine/' In America bathing facilities consist of long rows of commodious wooden boxes placed on the beach at some distance from the surf. You purchase a bathing ticket for twenty-five or fifty cents, the price depending on whether you prefer a woolen to a cotton costume. You receive the suit and the key of your box. Then you put your valuables in an envelope sealed by yourself and hand them to the custodian, who places them in a separate box in an enormous safe, returning you a check tied to a rubber band, which latter you pass over your head and wear while bathing. You proceed to your " house," as we call it, disrobe and don your scant suit, lock your door and walk out and down to the edge of the water, where, as fancy dictates, you loll around on the beach, talking to your friends, or you plunge im- mediately into the breakers only to come out, dry your- self in the sun, cut up capers on the sand, chat or smoke, repeating the process ad libitum. Of course men and women bathe together. Not so in England. There you bathe from ' * machines, " small wooden houses, five feet square by ten feet high, mounted on four wheels. They have entrances back and front, each approached by a low flight of steps. You enter by one door in street costume, and having dis- robed and donned your bathing garments, you give the signal, a horse is attached to the ''machine " which is drawn a short distance into the water. You step down and out, disport yourself in the water as long as you please and reenter your box, to emerge therefrom once more in everyday habiliments. No lolling about the beach, no unseemly display of person ; all is conduct-- MARGATE, 105 ed in a proper, staid and exemplary manner — on the beach. And in sooth, why should you walk around and smoke and chat with your friends on this occasion, in a cos- tume, or lack of costume, which if worn at ether times or places would land you in jail for exposure of per- son? This with reference to the American custom or costume. In England it is worse in some respects, for while the women dress as they do here, the men bathe in a nude state, so to speak. They wear small trunks or loin cloths only, and men and women bathe together indiscrimin- ately. Notices are posted in prominent places near the beach, boldl}^ printed and bearing the English coat of arms, to the effect that in the water men and women must remain separate, and further that you will be fined forty shillings (of course forty shillings) if you are found nearer to a female than one hundred yards ; but it is a dead letter law, and is entirely disregarded. I am not the most prudish man in the world, but I confess to hav- ing been shocked. Trunks did not suit me ; I preferred and obtained a bathing costume which is to be had upon special application. The beach is hard and smooth, broad and gently sloping. The bluff at Long Branch is not to be men- tioned, scarcely, with the bold, beautiful white chalk cliffs that rise abruptly and picturesquely from the beach at Margate to a height of seventy-five feet. Along this bluff are miles of grassy, serpentine walks, gardens prettily laid out, dotted with summer houses and bounded by hedges and clover fields — a beautiful, na- tural landscape, artificially enhanced. The favorite bathing place on the beach is managed by Charlotte Pettman. It is reached by a "coast guard" cutting in the cliff, an inclined passageway sloping from the road to the beach under the bridge. It is a sort of artificial caiion. Bathers are charged six- 106 MARGATE. pence each, " six baths for two-and-six, twelve for four- and-six. " Mrs. Pettman advertises her baths by a circular which contains the following touching verse, no doubt assist- ing trade materially. "I pitied the dove, for my bosom was tender, I pitied the sigh that she gave to the wind ; But I ne'er shall forget the superlative splendor Of Charlotte's sea baths, the pride of mankind." In his early days of struggle the great Charles Dick- ens, for a few shillings, penned these lines as a **puff " of Day & Martin's blacking. So far as the waves are concerned, the cliff is as solid as it appears to be, but it has yielded to the hand of man, and at Charlotte Pettman's baths there is a statue sculptured in the cliff, entitled ''My first plunge." It is the life-size figure of a young and beautiful girl in bath- ing costume, just about to take ''a header" from the platform. It is by Priestman, an English artist. The door is opened to art lovers for twopence each, or as much more as the generously disposed may be inclined to give, the proceeds being handed over to a local hospital. One of Margate's architectural features, as seen in the accompanying illustration, is its handsome clock- tower, standing in a conspicuous position on the Marine drive. It was erected in honor of the Queen's Jubilee in 1887, and has a musical chime of bells. Like Brighton and some other seaside resorts, Mar- gate is democratic in the height of summer, but select in the autumn. In olden times the season commenced in June and continued until October. Margate offers every inducement to a prolonged season. While Lon- don is miserable under Novemiber fogs and humid atmosphere, Margate is brilliant with glorious days and bright skies ; fine weather from August until Christmas. MARGATE. 107 Americans, of course, must flock to the largest hotel. They like size, and many of them patronize the Clifton- ville Hotel, which, to be sure, is a large establishment in the most fashionable, and certainly the most attrac- tive part of the town, near the grand cliffs, and over- looking the sea — a splendid site and a beautiful house exteriorly, but not as well kept as an Amerian host might care for it. The White Hart Hotel, on the principal street, is a commercial house, and has a comfortable appearance from the outside, but the Nayland Rock Hotel, not far from the two railway stations, yet overlooking the sea, and from the windows of which you may toss a biscuit into the water (provided you have the biscuit), is to my knowledge a well-appointed hotel, with bedrooms as clean and comfortable and dining-room as cheerful as any hotel in the world. The cuisine is of the best. If great variety be absent, quality is present. The food is choice, and served in a neat, tempting and scrupulously clean manner. European hotels, as a rule, are kept on the European plan ; at the Nayland Rock you have your choice. If you choose the American plan, the terms are very low for the accommodation afforded. Two dollars and a half a day secures you pleasant room, three good meals, lights and service. There are no extras. The wines are of first quality. But I almost forgot an important item. I went to Margate for health and rest ; I found both there. After one week I returned to London " like a lion refreshed," and I shall always say, as everybody in London says, " there's a beautiful air at Margate." TWO BRIGHTON HOTELS. The company that owns the Grand Hotel and the Metropole in London, opened in March, 1890, a magnifi- cent house at Brighton, on the Enghsh southern sea coast. ** Magnificent " is the word. It is built of stone; it faces the sea ; it has an acre or two at the back laid out in gardens, tennis courts, and pretty walks, after the style of the United States Hotel ' at Saratoga ; there is a separate building on the grounds for a ball-room, in this respect resembling the Grand Union Hotel at the same American spa ; the elegant drawing-room on the ground floor looks on the King's Road and the ocean ; the library, which faces the garden, contains a large and choice selection of books by leading authors, and in the basement there are Turkish and Russian baths fitted up with a luxury and perfection of appointment not equalled in any other hotel. The proprietors have availed themselves of all the latest ideas in the construc- tion and furnishing of hotels, and nothing that money can supply, or good taste can suggest, has been left un^ done to make the Metropole at Brighton what it is — one of the most beautiful and luxurious hotels in the world. It IS said to accommodate six hundred guests and to have cost ^{^480,000. Besides this hotel, and the Grand and Metropole hotels in London, the same company owns another hotel in London, "The First Avenue," in Holborn ; also the TUirlington at Eastbourne ; the Royal Pier Hotel at Ryde, Isle of Wight; the Metropole at Monte Carlo; and the Metropole at Cannes — all of them luxu- rious establishments. 108* TIVO BRIGHTON HOTELS, 109 Brighton attracts visitors the year round ; in fact it is a city of no mean size, having a permanent population numbering an eighth of a miUion. It enjoys two sea- sons — one for the hoi polloi, which begins in June and lasts three months, and another for the fashionable world, which begins in September and continues till near Christmas. During the second season the prices at Brighton are greatly increased. I entered one of the leading hotels one day about lunch time, and as is my custom before engaging rooms or partaking of a meal at an English hotel, I asked : "What is the charge for a table dTiote lunch here?" " Two-and-six, " replied the porter. As for seeing the lessee or manager of an English hotel, you can almost as easily secure an audience with the czar of all the Russias. But to return to my muttons — or to the lunch, which, truth to tell, was good in quality and nicely served. My daughter heard the following conversation between the head waiter and the said porter as we were passing in to the ** coffee-room" Quoth the former: — **How much did you tell these people for lunch ? " " Two-and- six," replied that blue-coated, gold-embroidered official. '* That's wrong," remarked the head waiter, who almost lost his head as well as his temper. " Three shillings is the price to strangers," and three shillings each we had to pay. This reminds me of the old story of the Englishman who was heard to remark about a man passing, who had a foreign look : " 'Ere'sa stranger, Bill, 'eave 'arf a brick at 'im." That they call these dining rooms in English hotels '* Coffee Rooms," when they never serve in them a cup of coffee after dinner without a separate and extra charge, is rather exasperating. The porters and officials at some English hotels are not, though it appears as if they were, in league with no TIVO BRIGHTON HOTELS. the cabmen. If you ask them about rates just before taking a drive they will occasionally mislead you and name a higher rate than the usual or legal one. For instance, I asked the clerk at another hotel in Brigh- ton, what was the fare by the hour for a drive in an open cab or victoria holding two persons. * ' Four shil- lings per hour," quickly responded my misinformant. I knew better, for this was not my first visit to Brighton, but said nothing. To a cabman with a good-looking victoria who stood immediately opposite the hotel en- trance I popped this question : ** What will you charge us for an hour's drive along the beach and about the town ? " *' Two-and-six, " briskly replied cabbie and we drove about the pretty place for a whole hour for the half crown. < H W X H Q < A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. Bleak House, the scene of the novel of that name, is near the village of St. Albans, about twenty miles from London, and is described in the early part of the story as an *' old-fashioned house with three peaks in the roof in front and a circular sweep leading to the porch." That there was more than one Bleak House in the mind of Dickens ''there can be no possible probable manner of doubt," as Gilbert sings in ''The Gondoliers," because at the close of the story one of the characters in it is made to say, "Both houses are your home, my dear, but the older Bleak House claims priority." But the " Bleak House" which was for many years the home of Charles Dickens, and where he wrote many of his novels, was so named by the author after his famous story. It is located in the old-fash- ioned village of Broadstairs, on the North Sea, in the county of Kent, the garden of England, and is seventy- two miles from London, on the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. The population is given in the latest census as two thousand two hundred and sixty- three. The house was formerly called Fort House, from its proximity to the British fortifications on the coast. It stands directly on the top of the chalk chffs, seventy- five feet above the water, quite alone, and so near to the edge that from the portico a stone might be easily thrown into the surf — what little surf there is. It corn- Ill BLEAK HOUSE. 112 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 118 mands a wide view of the ocean. In the southwest it looks toward Ramsgate, a seaside pleasure resort, dis- tant five miles ; in the northeast toward Kingsgate. The house is appropriately named, for it is indeed bleak from Christmas until April, when the cold, biting north- east winds, for which these parts are noted, blow with all their might. It was natural for Dickens to select such a spot for a residence. If he was not actually fond of the sea, he certainly had a great liking for the sea-coast, with which were associated the earliest memories of his childhood. It will be remembered that he was born at Portsmouth, a fortified seaport town, and the principal naval station of Great Britain, about one hundred miles southwest of London. Dickens lived at Ports- mouth until he arrived at his majority. At Portsmouth he studied law, but he found Blackstone and Coke rather dry reading, and so went to London where, as every body knows, he entered upon his literary career by reporting parliamentary debates for the Morning Chronicle. Bleak House is a plain, vSubstantial, coiupact, three- story structure of burnt brick. It has grounds of one and a quarter acres in extent, and the propert}^ is what is called in England " freehold ; " value, two thousand seven hundred pounds sterling. A stone wall five feet high, encloses the house on two sides. One side of the house is a flat, blank wall, evidently planned so that an extension could be easily made, and the lower part of the front is protected by plain iron railings. The en- trance is by a low flight of five steps leading up to a portico and doorway supported by Doric columns. Next the doorway, on the first story, a semi-circular bay window projects, and on the second story are two deep windows which open upon a pretty orna- mental iron balcony, having a curved, sloping roof. A great deal of ivy softens the bareness of the archi- 114 A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. lecture. It climbs up the walls and around the bay windows. Dickens was very partial to the ivy plant, as his lyric, "The Ivy Green," testifies. He wrote several lyrics, but " The Ivy Green " which appeared originally in *' Pickwick Papers " is the only one that has become familiar. It was first published as a song in the United States, and when a London publisher wished to repro- duce it in England, Dickens refused the privilege ex- cept on the condition that the publisher pay ten guineas to the composer, Henry Russell. Dickens was more thoughtful concerning Henry Rus- sell's rights than this English composer is of the rights of others. I well remember that my predecessor on the Home Journal, the much beloved poet, George P. Mor- ris, had a grudge against Russell, because Russell, in England, claimed to be the author of the words, "Woodman, Spare that Tree," as well as the com- poser of the music; and it is my humble opinion that the music in merit is far below Morris's poetry. The sentiment is beautiful, the words breathe a true, manly spirit and are full of deep feeling, while the music is plaintive, weak, childish — namby-pamby ex- presses it. Russell did better with the English poet Mackay's song, " Cheer, Boys, Cheer," making it go with life and spirit, and he set appropriate music to our own Epes Sargent's song, " A Life on the Ocean Wave," in which you may fancy you almost see the good old sailing ship bowling along before the wind. Henry Russell, who, by the way, is the father of Clark Russell, the novelist, is still living in London — February, 1892. As to the melody, " The Ivy Green," an astute critic says : " It seems to me the composer has failed to catch the poet's meaning. Dickens's words are as sombre and tender as the vine that deepens the shadows and softens the ruggedness of decaying grandeur ; while Russell's A VISIT TO BLEAK HOUSE. 115 music is as free and sturdy as the hardiest oak." The song opens with this stanza : A dainty plant is the ivy green That creepeth o'er ruins old, Of rich choice food are his meals, I ween, In his cell so lone and cold ; The wall must be crumbled, the stones decayed, To pleasure his dainty whim. And the mould'ring dust that years have made, Is a merry meal for him. Creeping where no life is seen, A rare old plant is the ivy green. The house is about fifty years old, and contains ten rooms. Dickens's study was on the second floor, front. It has a southeastern outlook ; he was fond of the rising sun. The furniture and appointments of the room, which the writer saw in the autumn of 1891, remain as when Dickens left them — table with telescope, book- case, plain wooden armchair, etc. — a very simply fur- nished study. He did not die at Bleak House, however, but at a short distance from it, on June 9, 1870, at Gads' Hill, '' Higham by Rochester, Kent," as he was in the habit of dating from. Dickens, at Bleak House, was a tenant of a Mr. Fos- bury, but the house was sold after Dickens's death, and is at present owned in Broadstairs by '*W. S. Black- burn, house and estate agent, undertaker, builder and decorator, and upholsterer and mover of furniture," by which man-of-many-trades the house was leased for a very short term to a Mrs. Whitehead, sister of the vicar of St. Peter's of Broadstairs, at an annual rent of six hundred dollars. Mr. Blackburn now offers the prop- erty for sale. It would make a cool and charming sum- mer retreat for some American prince. Or let some large-hearted and large-pursed man like George W. Childs buy the precious property and present it to the village of Broadstairs. BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. The beauty of Bath is an old story ; indeed, it is pro- verbial. Lord Macaulay described Bath as ''that beautiful city which charms even eyes familiar with the masterpieces of Bramante and Palladio"; Carlyle de- clared it to be " the prettiest town in all England "; and Walter Savage Landor averred, in his usual downright way, "that it was the only place worth living in, after Florence ". The London Globe, as far back as the 30th of October, 1869, in an article discussing the attractions of English towns, said : " Bath is, with perhaps the ex- ception of Edinburgh, the most beautiful city in the kingdom." Of the valley in which the city reposes, the physical features are distinctly marked and impressive. Bath lies in the centre of a vast amphitheatre of hills that present the most varied outlines, and every variety of light, shade and color. In some places bold eminences rise and impend over the low lying fields and orchards ; in others, a green and gradual ascent presents a widen- ing prospect. Everywhere there is a happy blending of town and country. At the end of each street verdant slopes or rugged rocks meet the gaze. No matter where you stand, whether on Claverton Down, rising six hun- dred feet above the level of the sea, on the still loftier range of Lansdown, with Beckford's Tower, or on Beechen Cliff, or on Sham Castle, everywhere a lovely panorama is spread, out before you. Being well pro- tected on all sides by hills the climate is never severe, and is even genial and balmy in the colder months of the year. Much of what is told us of the early history of Bath is of a legendary character, and no statement entitled to 116 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 117 credit can, we are assured on good authority, be made regarding the discovery and use of its thermal mineral springs, prior to the Roman occupation of the locality about the middle of the first century. To what extent the practice of drinking the waters was carried in early times we have little means of know- ing, but it is certain that they were rarely ever pre- scribed for use internally, as a therapeutic agent, until the time of Sir Alexander Fraser, physician to Charles II. in 1663. The medicinal value of these healing springs even now would seem to be less extensively known than in the interests of humanity it deserves to be. Numbers of English people annually resort to the Continental spas for means of relief from some lingering disease, apparently ignorant of the fact that almost at their doors and in a city so accessible as Bath, there exist fountains of equal or greater efficacy for healing and under con- ditions of far greater comfort and convenience. Among the diseases to which the Bath waters are speci- ally applicable are rheumatism, gout, various intestinal diseases, sciatica, neuralgia, nervous debility, eczema, and other skin diseases, bilious affections, dyspepsia and catarrh. The many buildings devoted to the baths form a con- spicuous feature in the architecture and embellishment of the city. Not to enumerate them all, there is the King's l^ath. adjoining the Grand Pump Room, about 60 feet in length and 40 feet wide, and containing over 50.000 galhms of water at a temperature of 117 degrees Fahrenheit ; the Hot Baths, the spring supplying which has a temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit, and the tepid Swimming Bath, for gentlemen only, 60 feet long and 25 feet wide, and containing more than 37,000 gal- lons of water. In the business part of the town there is a faucet where the hot mineral water flows constantly /r^; botio 118 BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS, publico. It may be ''good for the stomach," but to a strange palate it is not pleasant. An educated taste is needed before one can take delight in the bubbling, boiling beverage. The whole town is built of Bath stone, which is soft and white when quarried and first used in building. It hardens with time, however, resembling after a few years of exposure the black buildings in London which were once gray. The inhabitants have a fancy for win- dow gardens, and the bright flowers and green leaves about the windows form a pleasing contrast to their sombre-colored surroundings. Bath stone and Bath brick are known all over England ; also Bath chairs and Bath buns, which originated there. There are several good specimens of hotel architec- ture, the Grand Pump Room Hotel, for instance, near the old Abbey, and in which there are several mineral baths. The interior of the hotel, however, is not so "grand" as its name and its imposing exterior would lead you to expect. If you want to save cab hire there is a small and modest looking house, with the somewhat pretentious title, "The Royal Station Hotel," which is reached by a bridge from the railway station, across the narrow street. A good class of English and also Americans of quiet and refined tastes favor the York House Hotel. It is an establishment of the first class, having a central and beautiful situation on a wide and leading thoroughfare. Next door are the post and telegraph ofiices ; in the im- mediate vicinity are the Royal Victoria Park, the theatre, the Assembly Rooms and the attractive Cres- cents of the city ; the principal baths are within walking distance and the railway stations are reached by cab in five minutes. The public rooms are handsomely fitted up and the bedrooms are luxurious in size and very home-like. Meals are served at small tables and the tariff is moderate. It is essentially a house for the BATH AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 119 patronage of families. E. Ashcroft, who is proprietor of the St. Vincent Rocks Hotel in Clifton, Bristol, is proprietor of the York House Hotel at Bath. The Great Western Railway which takes you to Bath, from Paddington station in London (one hundred and seven miles) in 2X hours, is one of the important British roads. By the Great Western you go to Torquay, and Plymouth, on the southwest coast, and to such interest- ing points as Warwick, Stratford-upon-Avon, the old town of Chester and beautiful Leamington. The road traverses a lovely part of the country. En route you get a glimpse of Windsor Castle and pass through Tap- low and Maidenhead on the Thames, the rails or "metals," as they are called in England, skirting the river for many miles, affording delightful views of the Thames — not a wide sheet of water but very picturesque in this region. Long before you approach Bath the Avon is sighted, and as you near the station the eye is greeted by the noble hills which surround the ancient city. TAKIN' NOTES IN EDINBORO' TOWN. Singular that more Americans do not " take in " Scot- land when they are making the grand tour. Its historic interest and its scenic beauty are great. Glasgow is reached direct from New York by the fine fleet of An- chor boats, numbered among which are the ''Furnes- sia," the *' Devonia " and the ** City of Rome." Except- ing the last named the Scotch boats are slow in these days of ''racers " and " greyhounds," but they are very comfortable vessels, as I know, from experience, and I have crossed in seven days by the " Rome "—crossed, that is, from Oueenstown to New York. If you don't care about bustling, busy Glasgow, with its smoke and its dirt, bonnie Edinburgh is distant only sixty-five minutes by express trains of the Caledonian railway, one of the best built and best equipped roads in Great Britain. It hasn't the commerce of Glasgow, not being a sea- port, but it is the cleanest city I ever visited, and one of the most beautiful. Many travellers consider London the most interesting city in the world, but to a casual observer, five of the most attractive cities in Europe are Rome, Paris, Vienna, Venice and Edinburgh. Edinburgh is built entirely of granite and freestone. You don't see a brick excepting in a very few and very tall factory chimneys. To some eyes this is monoton- ous ; to mine it is pleasing. It looks, and it is, substan- tial, solid and strong. Don't come at any time, not even in August, without winter clothing. The winds are keen and cutting. 120 TAKIN' NOTES 121 Umbrella and "waterproof" are indispensable; over- shoes, also, if it is your habit to wear them, for "the rain it raineth every day " — so to speak. This is not the remark of a hasty tourist. I have been making trips to Scotland for the past twenty years and I have stayed there for weeks at a time. It is cool here and rain is frequent, but everything in this life has its compensation. This is the twentieth day of August, 1 89 1, and we have strawberries for breakfast every morning and fresh green peas are in season. Large, luscious strawberries and raspberries sixpence a quart. Edinburgh, remember, is four hundred miles north of London. The twilight is long and late. I was reading a badly-printed Scotch newspaper this evening by daylight at half-past eight. Labor is cheap here, and yet boys do men's work, such as driving carts and sweeping the streets. The drives in and about Edinburgh are very attract- ive, and there are no better roads anywhere. There are tram-cars in the city : fare, inside, two pence ; "on top," one penny. There are also two lines of cable cars. In a " distillery agent's" window, in Princes street, I saw flasks of wine marked "two shillings." I stepped in and bought a flask. "One penny more," remarked the salesman. " For what." said I, inquiringly. " For the cork." When I reached my hotel I applied a cork- screw ; it wouldn't budge. The penny "cork" was a glass stopper with a " worm," to screw on and off. It strikes a stranger as rather odd to see men and boys carry so much on their heads and to see them balance their loads with such nicety. Instead of using small, light push carts, or delivering goods in baskets hanging on the arm, as is done in New York, Edinburgh boys use a tray or flat board with an edge turned up, in which they carry vegetables, meat, poultry, fruit, etc. This tray is placed on the head and is scarcely ever touched 122 TAKIN' NOTES, by the hand except to load or unload. The head in Edinburgh is made to do good physical service. The house still stands, and is likely to stand for cen- turies, in which Walter Scott lived for years, and in which he wrote several of his novels. It is of granite, with a rounded (swelled) front, three stories high and about thirty feet wide. You must look it up when you go to Edinburgh — No. 39 Castle street. It is now used for office purposes, and is tenanted by doctors, lawyers, civil engineers and the like. In the transom window, over the door, you will see a small marble bust of the novelist. Princes street, the principal street, is not very long, only about one mile, but as far as it goes it is not easily surpassed in any city. On one side are the principal hotels and business blocks, all of granite or freestone ; on the other side are the handsome Princes Gardens with monuments and the magnificent Art Institute in the foreground, and in the background such buildings as the Castle, several churches and the Bank of Scotland. The gardens, with their terraces, gravel walks, foun- tains, rustic seats, lawns and flower-beds are uncom- monly attractive. It would seem that nowhere are the flowers brought to a higher state of cultivation than in the Princes Gardens. Blackwood has a large but very quiet-looking shop in George street, not so crowded a thoroughfare as Princes street, but in which a very select business is transacted. Thomas Nelson & Sons have the largest book publish- ing establishment in Scotland — I was going to say in Great Britain. Their business buildings cover a vast space, and the late Mr. Nelson's residence, not far from Holyrood Palace and Arthur's Seat, is one of the most attractive private citizens' residences in this part of the country. It was only two or three years ago, so a coach- man informed me, that Mr. Nelson gave ten thousand pounds to restore the front of the castle. David Douglas, whose retail house is at No. 9 Castle TAKIN' NOTES^ 128 street, makes a specialty of publishing and republishing works of American authors, and finds his profit in it. You may pick up on his counters almost anything of Longfellow, Holmes, Lowell, Howells, Winter and Aldrich. Winter's ''Shakespeare in England" and a later work, " Gray Days and Gold," were both published by Douglas, duplicate plates being sent over to Mac- millan of New York. Talk of books being expensive in England : these very books by Winter which Macmillan sells in New York at seventy-five cents each, Douglas publishes at two shillings ; in paper covers for one shilling — twenty- five cents. Douglas's people tell me that Winter's books find a ready sale in Great Britain. The critics and the reading public are delighted with his sketches of English and Scotch scenery, and especially with his scholarly and beautiful descriptions of Stratford-on-Avon and Shake- speare's country. They think that no author has writ- ten with more reverence and feeling about Shakespeare. They find **his language poetical and his style artistic, with a Meissonier-like finish." Fruits and Flowers. — In Scotland herrings are al- ways sold by pairs, haddocks by threes. In England and Scotland fruit is sold by the pound, so are vegeta- bles : and this fair and excellent method proves satis- factory to buyer and seller. Flowers and fruit are sold in the same shop : the signs read, " fruiterer and florist. " Flowers are very high in price. They use growing flowers and living plants in pots very freely to decorate the dinner table, but this idea, which is pretty enough in its way, is carried too far in hotel dining-rooms. So many tall plants make the table look dark and heavy, and the broad leaves prevent you from seeing your neighbor or chatting with a friend on the other side of the table, for in some hotels they still persist in using the ukl-fashioned long tables which are neither home- 124 TAKIN' NOTES, like nor comfortable. Choice fruit, being either im- ported from the warmer climates or grown under glass, is very expensive in the British kingdom. You pay sixpence or a shilling for a peach or nectarine ; two shillings each for choice varieties. The largest and handsomest peach ever grown, possibly, or certainly ever shown, was exhibited last summer in a shop win- dow in Buchanan street, Glasgow. It weighed eighteen ounces, price three-and-sixpence. The capital of Scotland is always spelled Edinburgh, but is always pronounced Edinboro'. In the stamp department of the post-office in Edin- burgh there is a shallow indentation about four inches square in the table, in which a piece of felt is kept con- stantly damp, Instead of putting the stamp on your tongue you pass it over the piece of felt before placing it on the envelope. Small matter, but very convenient, and shows thoughtfulness on the part of the authorities. Street Religion. — There's a great deal of poverty and drunkenness in Edinburgh, but there is also a great deal of religion. All the churches are well attended on Sunday, and there are preaching, praying and singing in the public streets. Church choirs, men and women, stand and sing in the public highvvays. In the low^er quarters of the city they attract people with a harmon- ium, which is wheeled about from place to place. Passers- by stop, join in the singing, and in fine weather uncover their heads! The singers are not paid for their services. The Dogs. — Here's a hint for the society which Mr. Henry Bergh founded : — On the sidewalk in front of large shops and pubhc buildings in Glasgow and Edin- burgh they place small earthenware or iron vessels filled with water for passing dogs. The vessel is simply and legibly marked " Dog." Probably the dogs cannot read, but they seem to know or to "nose out" the shops where such a humane practice is carried out. But a cer- tain Scotch editor contends that Scotch dogs can read. TAKIN' NOTES. 125 India Rubber Pavement. — The attention of every stranger who walks in Princes street, Edinburgh, is immediately arrested as soon as he gets in front of a certain shop, nearly opposite the castle, where rubber goods are sold. His attention is arrested because he finds himself on a yielding pavement. It is a rubber "sidewalk" (as we say in New York), and was laid there by the enterprising shopkeeper. It is very pleas- ant and comfortable to walk on, and so durable that the authorities have talked about putting down rubber pavements on both sides of Princes street. Glasgow University. — There is not much for the tourist to see in Glasgow except the university, the cathedral, founded in the fourteenth century, and the municipal buildings. But the first-named is worth walk- ing many miles to visit, if one is interested in such things. I spent several hours in the university with pleasure and profit. This university, Glasgow people claim, is the finest in Scotland. It accommodates twenty- three hundred students who pay an average of forty pounds a year. It is generously endowed. The build- ings are of granite and present a noble appearance, standing on very high ground in their own large park, which is beautifully laid out with terraces, flower beds and gravel walks. There are some grand old trees in the park, and a pretty winding lake, over which are thrown many picturesque bridges. Though it is a seat of learning, you will not expect the services of a college professor as a cicerone, but you might naturally expect to hear fair English spoken. The liveried servant who guides you will tell you, with strong aspirations, of the " helementary " classes and the " school of harts." In describing the modus operandi of taking the gold medal, the graduate sitting in a very high-backed chair, which is several hundred years old, you will be told "it's a very 'igh honor." In the '* Edinburgh Cafe," a fairish kind of restaurant 126 TAKIN' NOTES. in Princes street, opposite the Scott monument, a penny is charged for the privilege of washing your hands, and a penny for the use of a napkin. The majority of this cafe's customers, however, if the truth must be told, make a mouchoir serve for a serviette. Slippers Supplied Free. — If you go to Philp's Cock- ' burn (pronounced Coburn) Hotel in Edinburgh, it mat- ters not if you have forgotten to pack your slippers in your portmanteau, for the porter will provide you witn a pair. One hundred pairs of red morocco slippers are kept at this hotel for the use of guests. A foot of any size can be accommodated, and there is no charge. Smoking is not allowed in bedrooms of Scotch hotels, and a notice to that effect is posted in each room. " Smoking rooms" are provided, and only such apart- ment may be used for this purpose. They are both smoky and dingy. An Edinburgh Dollar Dinner. — I have dined at the leading hotels in New York, at ' 'The States, " in Saratoga, the Breslin, at Lake Hopatcong, and my experience in- cludes the leading hotels in the principal European cap- itals, and the leading hotels in the Southern and far Western States, as far as California, yet I can say that the table d'hote dinner served at Philp's Cockburn Hotel, Edinburgh (one Sunday last summer), will rank with the fare at any of these houses, and it excels the table d'hote at some high-priced hotels in London and Paris. Yet the price charged for this dinner was very moder- ate — only four shillings, about one dollar. The dinner included grouse, peaches, strawberries and nectarines, and from the hare soup down to the dessert, everything was well cooked and nicely served. The charge is re- markably moderate when it is understood that this is a ' ' temperance house, " and when you know that the choice fruit is grown under glass at high cost. The dinner would have been perfect with cafe 7toir at the close, but this is not served in British hotels without additional charge. THE BURNS MONUMENT. If Baltimore is the monumental city of the United States, Edinburgh may surely be called the monument- al city of the United Kingdom. The majority of its public buildings, of freestone or granite, are noble structures standing on hills in the heart of the city, and for their situation alone would command admiration — the old Castle, Nelson monument, the city prison, the National Gallery, the Bank of Scotland, etc. No bank in the world occupies a more commanding site than the one just named. Owing to the peculiar natural forma- tion of the land upon which the city is built, an observer may stand in one spot in Edinburgh (say the Waverley Gardens) and see a greater number of splendid build- ings at a glance than may be seen simultaneously from the level in any other city. Not among the largest by any means but among the most interesting must be reckoned the Burns monument, which occupies a high position near its still higher neighbor, the Nelson monument, on Calton Hill. The Burns monument was built in 1830 for the purpose of containing a marble statue of the poet by Flaxman. The building, of freestone, is a circular temple on a quadrangular basement surrounded by a peristyle of twelve Corinthian columns which support an entabla- ture and cornice. Over this is a cupola, a restoration of the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. The whole is surmounted by a tripod supported by winged griffins. The extreme height of the structure is fifty feet, the twelve outside columns are fourteen feet high and the twelve inside columns are ten feet high. The latter 127 128 THE BURNS MONUMENT. are of freestone painted to represent variegated marble. The cost of the monument and statue was three thou- sand three hundred pounds sterling (about sixteen thou- sand five hundred dollars) — not a large sum considering the result attained. Besides the statue of the poet, the monument holds a number of relics— letters written by or to Burns, the worm-eaten three-legged stool upon which the poet sat in 1786 and 'Z'j while correcting the proofs of his poems, and other things of interest. A letter from the poet to his cousin, James Burness, and dated Lochee, 21st June, 1783, complains of the depressed state of the country during the American war. As is well known, the poet spelled his name Burness (his family name) until the publication of his poems in 1786. Another letter to his cousin, dated Mossgiel, August 3, 1784, describes the fanatical religious sect that had sprung up in the neigh- borhood of Dumfries headed by a mad woman named Buchan. Hence they called themselves Buchanites. The subjoined manuscript poem accompanied a gift of fresh eggs from Burns's wife to Alexander Findlater : Dear sir, our lacky humbly begs Yell pree her caller new-laid Eggs And grant the cock may keep his legs Aboon the chuckles. Ell e stand, December 22, 1^88. One of the most interesting letters is here given in full: To Mr. James Burness Writer, Montrose. My Dear Cousin : When you offered me money assistance, Httle did I think I should want it so soon. A rascal of a haber- dasher to whom 1 owe a considerable bill, taking into his head that I am dying, has commenced a process against me and will infallibly put my emaciated body into jail. Will you be so good as to accommodate me. THE BURNS MONUMENT. 129 and that by return of post, with ten pounds. O, James, did you know the pride of my heart you would feel doubly for me. Alas, I am not used to beg. The worse of it is my health was coming about finely, you know, and my physician assures me that melancholy and low spirits are half my disease Guess then my horrors since this business began. If I had it settled I would be, I think, quite well in a manner. O, do not disappoint me. But strong necessity's curst command." I have been think- ing over my brother's affairs, and I fear I must cut him up, but on this I will correspond at another time, par- ticularly as I shall your advice. Forgive me for once more mention — by return of post save me from the horrors of a jail. My compliments to my friend James, and to all the rest. I do not know what I have written, the subject is so horrible I dare not look it over again, r'arewell, Robert Burns. July 12, Tewsday. The letter to John Tennent Auchenbey, thanking him for his kind present of a cask of whiskey, and praising its strength and good quality, betrayed the poet's great weakness. It is dated Eltenland, December 22, 1788. Another characteristic letter in a different strain, is worth quoting in full : To Mrs. Dunlop, Of Dunlop. I have received twins, dear madam, more than once, but scarcely ever with more pleasure than when I re- ceived yours of the 12th instant. To make myself un- derstood, I had wrote to Mr. Graham inclosing my poem addressed to him, and the same post that favored mc with yours brought me an answer from him. It was dated the very day he had received mine, and I am quite at a loss to say whether it was more polite or kind. Vour criticisms, my honored benefactress, are truly the work of a friend. They are not the blasting depreda- tions of a canker-toothed caterpillar critic, nor are they fair statements of cold impartiality balancing with un- feeling exactitude the pro and con of an author's merits ; they are the judicious observations of animated friend- ship selecting the beauties of the pen. I have just 130 THE BURNS MONUMENT, arrived from Nithsdale and will be here a fortnight. I was on horseback this morning (for between my wife and my farm is just forty-six miles) by three o'clock. As I jogged on in the dark I was taken with a poetic fit as follows: Mrs. T. , of C . Lamentations for the death of her son, an uncommonly promising youth of eighteen or nineteen years of age : Fate gave the wound — the arrow sped And pierced my darling's heart. You will not send me your poetic rambles, but you see 1 am no niggard of mine. I am sure your impromptus gave me double pleasure. What falls from your pen can be neither uninteresting in itself nor indifferent to me. The one fault you find is just, but I cannot please myself in an emendation. I will pay the sapient-potent George [reference to postage] most cheerfully to hear from you ere I leave Ayrshire. I have the honor to be, dear madam, your much obliged,- humble servant, Robert Burns. Among other relics are the lease or tack of the farm of Ellesland taken from Patrick Miller of Dalswinton, the gentleman who launched the first steamboat in the world in 1788 ; the manuscript of a poem, *' The Kirk's Alarm ; " excise return by the poet from Dumfries dis- trict, 1794; manuscript poems by Clarinda, ** Autumn of Life ; " portion of manuscript of Kilmarnock edition, 1786; portraits of the poet by Nasmyth, Skewing and Taylor. Relics of the poet's personal property are not wanting. There is a wooden trencher or cheese plate from Possie Nancy's, where Burns wrote **The Jolly Beggars;" a wine glass used by the poet; an oak mallet made from the rafter of AUoway's auld haunted kirk and used by Burns as deputy master of the Tar- bolton Mason Lodge, 1794; a sword cane used by him while in the excise, and his favorite knife and fork. There is also a curious delft jug which belonged to Mrs. Bruce, of Clackmanan, a friend of Burns. She was a descendant of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, and on Burns's last visit she knighted him with an old sword THE BURNS MONUMENT, 131 that belonged to the king; saying *'she had as much right to do so as any other body." Others matters of interest to those who love the poet are a snuff-box made from the printing press at which his first edition of poems was printed in Kilmarnock, 1786 ; a sneeshan mull, or snuff horn, which belonged to Highland Mary's father, 1758; Indian china cup and saucer that belonged to Miss Alexander, the bonny lass of Balochmyll ; lock of hair which belonged to Miss Lorimer, the lassie wi' the tent white locks ; curious round oak silver-mounted snuff-box used by the poet, and presented to his trusty friend, George Richmond, 1788 ; an apple presented by the poet to his brother Gilbert's wife as a wedding gift. Among the relics preserved in frames and hung on the walls is the printed newspaper report of Burns's death. This occurred at Dumfries, July 21, 1796, and the report appeared in the London Herald of July 27 — nearly one week after. The London Herald oi that day was a very small sheet, about fifteen inches long and only four columns wide, price fourpence halfpenny a copy. The obituary notice is unique, and is worth re- producing to-day : DEATH OF" IMR. ROBKRT BURNS, THE CELEBRATED POET. " On the 2 1 St instant died at Dumfries, after a linger- ing illness, the celebrated Robert Burns. His poetical compositions, distinguished equally by the force of native humor, by the warmth and tenderness of passion, and by the glowing touches of a descriptive pencil, will remain a lasting monument of the vigor and versatility of a mind, guided only by the light of nature and the inspirations of genius. The public, to whose amusement he so largely contributed, will learn with regret that the last months of his short life were spent in sickness and indigence, and his widow with five infant children, and in the hourly expectation of a sixth, is now left without any resource but what she may hope from the regard due to the memory of her husband." 132 THE BURNS MONUMENT, Monuments, however, are not Edinburgh's only at- tractions, but do not count on seeing the sights there on Sunday. The day is closely and strictly observed. London is surely quiet enough on a Sunday, but it is gayety itself when compared with the capital of Scot- land. Not a shop is open ; even the drug shops are open only during two hours. Ever^^thing is shut as tight as a drum in Edinburgh except the churches, and to these you must either walk or hire a carriage, for not a wheel of an omnibus or car turns on Sunday. THE BURNS MONUMENT. I CROSSING THE CHANNEL. There are many ways of "crossing" between the Continent and the Eiighsh coast, or vice versa. The best steamers between England and Holland are those which go from Rotterdam to Harwich. Harwich (An- glice, Harridge) is about a two hours' run up to London. I have tried the different ways of crossing from the French coast to England — via Newhaven and Dieppe, Folkstone and Boulogne, and Calais and Dover. The last route is by far the best. It would be preferred over all others, if for only one reason, because it is the shortest, the English Channel being "disagreeable" at least one half the year. The Calais and Dover boats are advertised to make the trip between the two points "in seventy minutes," and they do actually make it in one hour and a quarter. The other routes are much longer. No small craft that ply on the English waters are as beautiful in their appointments as our Hudson river boats, or those for instance of the P'all River line, but they are staunch and swift, and they are manned by as brave a set of seamen as ever trod a deck. The English boats are proof against wind and wave, the only danger being from fire or fog, but as they are officered by skillful and experienced navigators, and are very carefully handled, the danger is reduced to a minimum, PARIS HOTELS. Paris is not in the least behind other cities in the number of its hotels nor in the variety of accommoda- tions offered. Your choice must depend first upon the length of your purse ; second, upon the length of your stay ; third, the purpose of your visit. The number in the party and their individual tastes and requirements must also be taken into account. I have not passed near so much time in Paris as in London. The most I can do is to suggest some of the choicest hotels dcud. pejisions with which I am acquainted, giving their rates and distinctive features. For information as to Where to Dine in Paris I must refer the reader to a chapter further on, entitled * ' The Restaurants of Paris," by the late writer and con- noisseur in many arts, Mr. Theodore Child. It first appeared in a book entitled " Living Paris," which was published in London four years ago by Ward & Dow- ney, and is the most complete and comprehensive Guide to Paris I have ever seen. THE GRAND HOTEL. The Grand Hotel is one of the largest and most ex- pensive. It is grand in size ; grand in appointments. It is not a cheap house in any sense of that term, and pos- sibly for that reason is largely patronized by Americans. The building occupies a square block facing that mag- nificent street, Avenue de 1' Opera, diagonally across 134 PARIS HOTELS. 135 from the Grand Opera House. It encloses a large court- yard with fountains and parterres. The caves of the Grand are ranked as one of the sights of Paris ; they are stocked with the choicest of wines. Rooms from six francs per day ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, five francs ; table d'hote dinner, eight francs with wine. Board and lodging complete (American plan), from twenty francs per day. HOTEL CONTINENTAL. The Continental, on the corner of the rue de Rivoli and rue Castiglione, is opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Near by are Hotel des Invalides, the Madel- eine, the Eiffel Tower and other interesting buildings. It is large and elegant — grander than the Grand. The grounds, with the structure and furnishing are said to have cost some millions of francs. The rates at the Continental are a little lower than at the Grand. They range all the way from five francs to thirty-five francs per day for room ; lights and attend- ance extra. Breakfast of coffee, chocolate or tea with rolls, from one to two francs ; breakfast proper, or de- jetmer a la fourchctte, five francs, wine and coffee in- cluded. Table d'hote dinner, seven francs. At many Paris hotels wine is included in the charge for dinner, but at the Continental on Sundays, champagne as well as vin ordinaire is served free, but not, as in the case of the latter, in unlimited quantity. HOTEL MEURICE. Smaller than these two hotels and for that reason thought by some to be more select is the Hotel Meurice, in rue de Rivoli. It is near rue Castiglione and oppo- 136 PARIS HOTELS^ site the Tuileries gardens, altogether a beautiful loca- tion. Issuing from the handsome courtyard and turning to the left, a few minutes walk brings you to the Palais Royal and the Louvre galleries ; or turning to the right a few steps bring you past the hotel Continental, to Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees. It may seem strange to those who have not lived in continental hotels, to note that the hotel Meurice is scrupulously clean. You observe this in its beautiful courtyard, in its handsome dining-room and in the neatly kept bed- rooms. The hotel is patronized by leading New York families and by the best English society, and it ranks as does the Brunswick or the Victoria in New York. The cuisine of the house is famous and its cellars contain rare wines. Hotel Meurice was established in 1815 and its present proprietor has kept it for more than thirty years. If your stay in Paris is to cover a week or more, you — - and especially the ladies of your party — will find this hotel a thoroughly agreeable place of sojourn ; Bae- deker counsels avoiding the largest hotels if you are accompanied by ladies. Hotel Meurice has electric light, and new plumbing was put in a few years ago. It accommodates two hundred guests. Single rooms from five francs per day ; apartments from fifteen to one hundred francs. Table d'hote dinner, at six P.M., six francs. Proprietor, H. Scheurich ; address, 228 rue de Rivoli. HOTEL CHATHAM. Hotel Chatham is justly famed as one of the most ele- gantly appointed of Paris hotels. I have known it for twenty years, and for twenty-five years it has been the PARIS HOTELS, 137 temporary home of travellers of all nations, — those who demand the best hotel accommodations, and for which yon pay only a moderate price. Single rooms from five francs per day ; luncheon, four francs ; table d'hote dinner, six francs. Hotel Chatham occupies a central location, near the Opera, rue de la Paix, the theatres, and the best shopping streets. The first feature of the Hotel Chatham that attracts attention is the large, li^ht, and spacious courtyard, fifty by one hundred feet. It makes an impression that gains in favor when you see the apartments. The grand salon, the reading-room and cafe look out upon this court^^ard, which is embellished with flowers. The sleeping apartments are beautifully furnished, have plenty of light and good ventilation. There are elegant suites, also choice single and double rooms. The decorations are in good taste. In the best apart- ments the walls are not hung with paper, but are cov- ered with stuffs — a mixture of worsted and soft silks. Hot and cold water on every floor. Two features especi- ally commend themselves to those who are acquainted with foreign hotels ; there are two Otis elevators, and the house is lighted throughout by electricity — shed- ding a light in the rooms, not of one bougie, but of twenty. The cuisine represents the perfection of the culinary art, and the wine-cellars are celebrated for their famous vintages. The Hotel Chatham is the home of the best people and many Americans annually seek its hospitality. The Harpers, for instance, members of the great publishing- house, are among its regular guests. The present pro- prietor is M. H. Holzschuch, son of the late owner, under whom the house acc[uired its wide fame. Hotel Chatham is at 17 and 19 rue Daunou, between rue de la Paix and Boulevard des Capucines. 138 PARIS HOTELS. HOTEL BINDA. Everybody in Paris knows the Hotel Binda, and it is known by a great many people who have never been in Paris. With New Yorkers the house is a favorite be- cause it is kept by Mr. Charles Binda who for years was manager of Delmonico's, and this settles at once and satisfactorily the important question of cuisine. The house was opened in 1878. It is solidly built of stone, five stories high, and is an imposing structure. It stands in rue de I'Echelle, on a corner of the avenue de TOpera, the principal business street of Paris, and probably the handsomest shopping street in the world. It is most con- veniently located for the principal places of interest — • the Grand Opera, Palais Royal, the Louvre galleries, etc. One minute's walk brings you to the rue de Rivoli, that wide open street, one side of which is flanked by the open and beautiful gardens of the Tuileries. If in the heat of a summer day in walking to Place Vendome or to the Champs Elysees, you wish to avoid sunny rue de Rivoli, shade is at your very door in the narrow but picturesque rue St. Honore, which, with its little shops, its hotels, old churches, etc., is a feature of outdoor life in Paris. The Grand Opera is at the other end of the Avenue de rOpera, a short walk. But omnibuses pass the door, by which you can reach any part of Paris at the expense of a few sous. And, for that matter, it is only a thirty- cent cab fare to the Grand Opera, to the offices of the American Minister, Whitelaw Reid, in Avenue Hoche, or ,to the Anglo-American Bank on the corner of Chaussee d' An tin and rue Meyerbeer. Cocker will go fast enough if by the course and slow enough (too slow) if by the hour. Instead of a courtyard such as many hotels in Paris have, and which in some cases are useless, the space on PARIS HOTELS. 139 the ground floor is used by the Binda for a grand, glass- enclosed reception and reading-room, beautifully lighted by day and by night. There is also a grand drawing- room and a smoking-room, which unlike the dingy rooms turned over to the use of men in some English hotels is, in the Binda, a very bright and attractive apartment. All the apartments are comfortably and tastefully furnished, but some of the rooms are furnished in pala- tial style. There are baths on every floor and some rooms have running water. Of course there are electric lights and an ascenseur, Anglice "lift." But for all its grandeur, one may live at the Binda at moderate cost. If you know about how wide you wish to open your purse in selecting apartments you can tell as precisely as you could in an American hotel how much your bill will amount to for a stay of five days or ^w^ weeks. Single rooms may be had from seven to twelve francs per day ; double rooms from fourteen to thirty francs. Special rates, lower than these, are made to guests remaining a length of time. Here is the tariff for the dining-room : Plain breakfast (tea or chocolate) if. 50c., about 30 cents ; table d'hote dinner, served at separate tables, 6f., servant's board 6f. per day. No charge is made for at- tendance. That Charles Binda is proprietor is guarantee that the table is equal to the Windsor in New York, or the Albemarle in London, and these satisfy the most fastidious. Mr. Binda is famous for his cuisine, but he prides himself most upon the quality of his guests. He demands that above and beyond everything else his house shall be select, and it is so in the fullest sense. Mail address. No. 1 1 rue de I'Echelle. Cable, " Binda ; Paris." 140 PARIS HOTELS. HOTEL METROPOLE. There are several comparatively small but decidedly pleasant hotels in rue Castiglione — Hotel Liverpool, Hotel Balmoral and Hotel Metropole. The last-named is especially to be commended for its choice location, the comfort and cleanliness of its rooms, its appetizing cuisine, and its remarkably moderate charges. It is in rue Castiglione, directly opposite the Continental ; two blocks one way from the Column Vendome, two blocks from the Place de la Concorde, near the Champs Elysees, and only a few hundred feet from the beautiful gardens of the Tuileries. Like the majority of Paris hotels, the Metropole is entered by a court-yard, but unlike some of them, the ventilation and lighting, of the house are good. It has ample room for more than one hundred guests, and they can be made very comfortable. The house is kept on the American as well as on the European plan. If you adopt the system which prevails abroad, you may hire a single room as low as four francs per day, or a double room for seven francs per day. Breakfast, three francs ; luncheon, four francs ; table d'hote dinner, five francs. This figure includes good wine in qitaniinn sicfficit, as a medical man might say. As at nearly all Continental hotels, " service " is charged. In this instance it is one franc per day ; and yoVi pa}^ for lights — item sevent^^-five centimes, about fifteen cents. But if you wish to be relieved of all this detail and save the bother of reckoning, you can stay at the Metropole and 3'our whole bill per day for board, lodging, lights, wine, etc., will be the moderate sum of fifteen francs (three dollars), which, considering the excellent table and the attention }'()u receive, is a low rate. If you desire to mix with an ultra-fashionable set, the Bristol is your house ; if you want to see and be with PARIS HOTELS. 141 Americans only, then select the Grand. The Continen- tal is the place for those who would feast their eyes on palatial salons ; at the Metropole you will get into the company of good people from different countries, you can be quiet and comfortable and made to feel at home, as is to be expected in a smaller house. Moreover, your purse will be lightly drawn upon in accordance with the figures given above. Proprietor, X. Silvani ; address, No. 6 rue Castiglione. Hotel de Lille et d' Albion, in rue vSt. Honore, is not a very large house, but it is ranked among the best, although its charges are quite moderate. It has baths, lift, electric light and English billiard tables, its modern contrivances including telephonic communication with the leading European cities. The sanitary arrangements are said to be perfect. The location is central for shop- ping, for places of amusement and points of interest, being near Place Vendome, Tnileries Gardens and the Opera. Mail address, 223 rue St. Honore ; telegraph address, Lillalbion, Paris. Hotel Bristol and Hotel du Rhin both front on the Place Vendome ; you can't miss them ; they are near the tall and graceful Column \"endome which pierces the sky from the centre of the square. There is no question as to the excellence of either of these houses. Both are patronized by a select class of patrons ; the former is the home of the Prince of Wales when he visits Paris. Hotel Liverpool is patronized by the Astors. To Americans this information conveys more than could be detailed in a whole page of description. It is situated at 1 1 rue Castiglione, a wide and fashionable thorough- fare leading from Place Vendome to the Tuileries Gar- dens. The house was recentl}" newly fitted up and has a hydraulic lift. There are large apartments for fami- lies making a more or less prolonged stay ; smaller apartments for transient guests. 142 PARIS HOTELS, Hotel de l'Athenee. — Of hotels just as select as any of those mentioned, there are a score or more. Among them may be mentioned the Hotel de l'Athenee, 1 5 rue Scribe. It was recently enlarged, the whole of the Theatre de l'Athenee having been added, and the former dining-room is now converted into a reading room. There are two bath-rooms on each floor. The appointments include a parlor, a reading room, a restaurant a la carte, and two private dining-rooms. There are 1 80 rooms in all, which rent from four francs to twenty francs a day, but there are not very many rooms in the house at four francs. Hotel Campbell. — The Hotel Campbell, at 61 and 63 Avenue de Friedland, has one of the best sites in Paris for a family house. It stands on the highest ground, the location being healthy, beautiful, select and fashion- able — a few steps from the Champs Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe. The house is six stories high, built of stone, and has an imposing front, standing on the corner of rue Tilsit and avenue de Friedland, a wide and grand boulevard. The salon is richly furnished. There is a new dining-room covered with glass and flooded with light. House heated by steam ; lift, electric light, all modern contrivances. Mr. Arthur Geissler, the present proprietor, took the house about three years ago, since which time he has enlarged it, making also great changes and improvements. Mr. Geissler's native tongue is German, but he converses easily in English, speaks Italian and, of course, French. There are accommodations for one hundred guests at from twelve and a half francs per day for room and three meals, everything included but wine and lights. Still more moderate terms to families who make a protracted stay. Address letters and telegrams " Hotel Campbell, Paris." Hotel de Castille. — This is at No. 37 rue Cambon, a narrow, but pleasant street running off from the Boule- vard des Italiens, and leading to Place Vendome, a con- venient place for those who desire to be near shopping PARIS HOTELS. 143 and amusement centres. From above the ground floor there is a pleashig front outlook, the hotel standing opposite the gardens attached to the residence of the Minister of Justice. The public rooms, on the first floor, are very pretty ; the bedrooms have high ceilings and are richly furnished, many having pictures in oil on the walls. Modern conveniences — electric light, lift, baths, hot and cold water on every floor. One hundred and fifty guests accommodated. There is a large and hand- some courtyard in which, during warm weather, meals are served, al fresco, under a decorated canopy. The proprietor of Hotel Castille, James F. Wullschleger, is a young Swiss. He speaks German fluently, as well as Italian, and Americans will not find him at all deficient in the English tongue. Breakfast, one and a half francs ; luncheon, four francs ; dinner, five francs, wine not in- cluded. Mail and cable address, '' Hotel Castille, Paris." Hotel La Tremoille. — The Hotel Tremoille (for- merly Hotel Pension Lafond) is in rue de la Tremoille, a quiet, select and beautiful location, on the corner of rue de la Tremoille and rue Boccador. The neighbor- hood is known as the Quartier Marboeuf-Champs Ely sees, and the Arc de Triomphe is but a few steps distant. The house has ascenseiw, baths and water on every floor ; the salon is handsome, and the bed-rooms are beautifull}^ furnished. Accommodation for one hundred guests. Single rooms from six to ten francs per day ; room for two persons from eight to twelve francs per day. Breakfast from two to four francs ; luncheon, from two to four francs ; seven o'clock din- ner, five francs, wine not included. Arrangements for complete board (three meals), rooms, service, every- thing included, from ten to fifteen francs per day for one person. Board for children under seven, six francs per day. The house has not changed proprietors for the past six years. Mail address, Madame Lafond. 14 rue de la Tremoille : cable. Lafhotel, Paris. PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. But you are not forced to patronize any hotel, large or small ; there are many very delightful pensions or boarding houses in Paris. These some people prefer, if their party includes ladies, or if they intend to make a protracted stay. A few of these pensions are presided over by American women. The Van Pelt Pension at 69 Boulevard St. Michel is kept by Mrs. E. L. Van Pelt, a New Orleans woman who took with her to Paris the best American refer- ences. This place has some features which commend it to the stranger in Paris. Its location, facing the Luxembourg Gardens, is near the famous art schools and the Sorbonne, where free lectures are given, thus making this a desirable residence for students. It is across the Seine, and yet within comparatively easy access by omnibus, cab or train to all parts of Paris and environs. The house stands on a corner, and all the rooms are exposed to the sun and air. Mrs. Van Pelt has accommodation for thirty guests. Rates from $2. 50 to $3 per day, according to season and length of stay. Average about seventy-five francs per week ; no wine. American Family Home. — This term is appropriately applied to the pension de famiJle presided over by a young French widow, whose personal beauty and grace of manner are more than marked. Reference is made to Madame Veuve Leon Glatz, who is assisted in her duties by her sister. Both of them speak English with a pretty and piquant accent. The Glatz pension is in rue de Clichy, five minutes distant from St. Lazare Station and Park Monceau ; ten minutes from la Madeleine and the Opera. It was built in 1885 and is sanitarily correct ; 144 PJ^NS/OyS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 145 supplied with new spring water from the new water works of Paris. There is a really grand salon in which musicalcs are given weekly. In the rear of this is a large and handsome garden, neatly kept — a very pretty loung- ing place on summer evenings. There are baths in the house, the bedrooms are nicely furnished, the service is good, and last, and by no means least worthy of note, is the table, which is liberally supplied ; the best as to quality. But Madame Glatz at present has only room for thirty guests and her house is in such demand that you must engage rooms months, or at least weeks, in advance. Terms, eight to fourteen francs per day, which is the full charge ; no extras, except, possibly, for lights. This is a favorite place with Americans of refinement ; others are not admitted to Madame Glatz's charming family circle. Address, 45 rue de Clichy. The Powers Pension.— One of the most desirable pensions in Paris, especially desirable for Americans, is kept not by a "charming Frenchwoman,'' nor by a "hearty " Britisher, but by a couple of cultivated, good Americans, well-known in New York — Mr. and Mrs. J. G. Powers, Jr. The house is in a high and delightful location, in the American quarter, 69 Avenue d'Antin, near the Champs Elysees. Mrs. Powers claims that it is "the most elegant and comfortable pension in Eu- rope, " and I, who have had some experience in hotels and pensions of the first rank, do not contradict the state- ment. I am not given to using the adjective " elegant " too freely, but elegant and tasteful are words that come to mind without summoning, in speaking of the Powers pension. The salon is a beautiful apartment ; yes, un- commonly beautiful. It is on Monday evenings more particularly that this salon looks its best, when the re- ceptions are held. The house, it is well worth noting, has been enlarged and greatly improved since last year. Mrs. Powers has the entire building, now, with sixty bedrooms. A hydraulic lift has been put in. and the 146 PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. driveway which led from avenue D' An tin to the street parallel with it at the back, has been done away with. The space thus gained has been added to the dining- room, so that ninety guests can now sit down at one time. The Powers pension is a select family home in the strictest sense of the term, and the rates for board are quite reasonable ; pleasant rooms and three meals from ten francs per day. Make a note of the address — 69 Avenue d'Antin. A Quiet Pension for Americans. — Number 7 Ave- nue du Trocadero is in the American residential quar- ter, three minutes' walk from the American Church. The avenue is handsome and very wide, admitting of an equestrian road and three rows of fine old sycamores between the sidewalks. No. 7 has been kept as sl pen- sion since 1872, and it is now under the care of two *' good Americans," who have had it for six years, and who have won the patronage of a quiet class of English people, the aim of the Seymours being to make it an attractive, comfortable, Christian home. Forty-five guests accommodated. Trams and 'buses pass the door every few minutes ; boats, within two minutes' walk, to all parts of the Seine. Mr. and Mrs. Seymour do not pretend to keep a fashionable or an elegant house for people having long purses and luxurious tastes, but the beds are good, the rooms look cozy and comfortable, and they claim that '*the cuisi?ie is oi the best." The rates at this periston are low — from $1. 50 to $2. 50 per day. Mrs. Crowther's is a select pension in which you will be entertained if you are willing to furnish references. This Mrs. Crowther will most gladly do, and thus, as a' former famous commander of the New York Seventh Regiment used to say, "honors are divided." I am acquainted with Americans who have stayed with Mrs. Crowther for months at a time so pleased were they with their surroundings and their host. Although select and choice and nicely situated, near the much-talked-of- PENSIONS OF THE FIRST CLASS. 147 Arc de Triomphe, the rates here are moderate — from ten dollars a week. Address, Mrs. Crowther, No. 6 rue de Belloy. Villeneuve's House. — This is called an "American Pension," because it is largely patronized by Americans. The house has what so many New Yorkers demand — southern exposure ; it has elevator, baths, etc., and is tastefully furnished. The location, in rue Boccador, is most pleasant — in the Champs Elysees district. Address No. 12 rue Boccador. "A French Family Home," where French lessons are given, is Mme. Tonnot's, in that attractive avenue named for Baron Haussmann, who did so much to im- prove Paris by widening the streets and beautifying the city. Tonnot's is convenient to avenue de I'Opera, the opera house and the shopping district. Address, No. 52 bis Boulevard Haussmann. THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. BY THEODORE CHILD. In order to anticipate criticism, and to avoid disap- pointment, it may be well to state at once that the art of cookery is in a terrible state of decadence in Paris. The men of the present generation do not seem to have the sentiment of the table ; they know neither its varied resources nor its infinite refinements ; their palates are dull, and they are content to eat rather than to dine. This decadence may be remarked both in private and in public establishments. The gourmet nowadays is a rarity, and a man of thirty years of age who knows how to order a dinner is a still greater rarity. One might discover many causes of this decline of a delicate art. The conditions of contemporary life, the hurry and un- rest of modern Paris, doubtless do not conduce to the appreciation of fine cooking ; but the chief cause of the decline of cookery in restaurants is the development of club life. The men of fashion, leisure, or wealth, who formerly would have lived at the restaurants, now dine at their clubs between two seances at the baccarat table, and the restaurants have thus lost that nucleus of regu- lar and fastidious customers which, by its readiness to criticise and appreciate, obliged and encouraged the chef to keep up the traditions of the dainty palates of the past. At present the great restaiirants of Paris de- pend for support as much on foreigners and on provin- cial people as on resident Parisians. The criticism of their cookery is less constant and less rigorous ; the bills J48 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 149 of fare are less varied than they were of old ; the amour propre of the cooks is less ; in a word, cookery has be- come nowadays more an industry than an art. Even in the most famous Parisian restaurants the visitor must not expect too much in the way either of viands or of wines. In certain things, again, it must be remembered that the Parisian market is inferior to the markets of almost any town in England. The English visitor generally speaks disparagingly of the French oyster, for instance, doubtless because he is not accustomed to its flavor, and yet I know many connoisseurs who have travelled and dined in many lands who maintain that of all oysters the green Marennes {Marennes vertes) are the most deli- cate and delicious. The lovers of comparisons will ask what equivalents the French have for real turtle-soup, ox-tail, mulligatawny, and pea-soup with a sprinkling of dried mint and sippets. Is it their bisqice or puree of crayfish, their consomme de volatile, their Saint Germain, or green pea-soup, their Parmejitier, or thick potato- soup ? But the traveller does not go to Paris to eat the food of his native land, but rather to enjoy the particu- lar food of the country. Therefore, he must not expect to get fine salmon, or cod-fish, or turbot, or even mack- erel in Paris. The city is too far away from the sea to have good salt-water fish. Salmon in Paris is dry and of poor flavor ; fresh cod-fish is rarely seen, and the habits of the restaurants render it impossible to eat such salmon and turbot as there is in favorable conditions. In a London restaurant a whole salmon or a whole tur- bot is served hot like the joints ; in a Paris restaurant, if you order boiled salmon or turbot. the cook cuts a slice off a parboiled fish, puts the slice in the pot, and boils it up for you. The result is tmsatisfactory. As a rule, I should say, in a Parisian restaurant eat your salmon and your turbot cold, and prefer to both a red mullet {rouget), a sole, a trout, or some fresh- water fish. 150 THE REST A URANTS OF PARIS, A carefully prepared 7natelotte d'anguilles, which is not precisely the same as stewed eels, andifriture de Seiner which need not be compared to whitebait, are both dishes not unworthy of the attention of the epicure. The French are poor roasters ; the roast beef and roast mutton in their restaurants cannot for a moment be compared with the joints at Simpson's or Blan chard's in London. Pies -and puddings also are unknown to the French, with the exception oi pates de foie gras and game pies. The French, again, eat their game very fresh and less cooked than the English. Generally, I think that the raw material^ of the Parisian restaurant cuisine is inferior to that of English restaurants ; on the other hand, with the limitations referred to above, particularly as regards roasting, the preparation of the dishes is superior, and in the first-class restaurants unique. In the preparation and variety of vegetables the French lead the world ; in the fabrication of sauces they are un- surpassed ; in the serving and arrangement of a dinner they leave little to be desired. But where can one go to dine in Paris ? Which restau- rants are the best, and what are the prices, and what is one to order ? The subject is delicate and even danger- ous, for although the critic has the right to declare a book or picture bad, pernicious, or abominable, and to pronounce its author to be unworthy of public atten- tion, he dare not be so outspoken about the wretchedest restaurant-keeper who is licensed to poison his custom- ers. I cannot tell you that such and such a restaurant in the Palais Royal is not to be frequented, or that such and such a gilded palace on the boulevard is an expen- sive delusion. I may, however, assure you that as prices run in Paris, it is impossible for a restaurateur to serve you with a healthy and honest plate of meat for less than one and a half francs, and you may there- fore conclude that the restaurateurs who, for a fixed price, varying from one and a quarter to three francs, THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 151 offer you a complete dinner of five courses — soup, fish, meat, two desserts, and half a bottle of wine — are prob- ably in league with the honorable apothecaries, whose aid their customers must often need. To the traveller I say sly old prix fixe dinners alto- gether, or, if you will satisfy your curiosity, go to the Diner Europeen at the corner of rue Lepelletier and the boulevard (price five francs), or to the table d'hote dinners of those vast caravansaries, the Hotel du Louvre, the Grand Hotel, or the Hotel Continental, where you dine for six, seven, or eight francs, and see specimens of men, women and children of all the coun- tries of the world, and a profusion of linen, of silver plate, and luxurious surroundings which, for a time, will perhaps distract your attention from the insipidness of the roasts and the cheapness of the sauces. The Bouillon Duval is an establishment which gener- ally attracts the attention of the traveller. In every quarter of Paris you see one or two sober and respecta- ble-looking facades painted dark red and lettered sim- ply, " Etablissement Duval." The Duval restaurants are wonderfully organized, exceedingly cheap, and all the food sold in them is good and genuine ; these estab- lishments now serve an average of three million meals a year. The visitor may often find it convenient in his wanderings about Paris to lunch in one of these Duval restaurants, if he is out of the way of any other well- known restaurant. In all of them he will find the food of the same quality, and the prices the same. As he enters, the doorkeeper will hand him a bulletin, on which all that he eats and drinks will be checked off, and which bulletin, when duly paid and stamped, will serve him as a passport when he leaves the establish- ment. The prices at the Duvals are very low ; no dish costs more than one franc, and most of them only fifty or sixty centimes ; wine costs twenty centimes a carafon, which is equivalent to one glassful, or one franc a bot- 152 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. tie and upwards ; coffee and cognac costs forty cen- times. The Duval restaurant may be frequented with impunity, for nothing poisonous or deleterious is sold there ; the only disadvantage is that the portions being very small, a hungry man, in order to satisfy his appe- tite, will need so many portions, that his bill will mount up to as much as if he had lunched or dined in an estab- lishment of superior standing and comfort. The Bouil- lon Duval stands in the same relation to the regular restaurant as the omnibus or tram-car stands to the victoria ; as somebody has said, c'est V omnibus du ventre. At length we come to the restaurants proper, the res- taurants where one dines in the true sense of the term. It is commonly believed that the first-class restaurants in Paris are very dear. The Cafe Anglais, you will be told, charges twelve francs for a beefsteak for two, and fifteen francs for a Rouen duck. Yes, but the beefsteak in question is a Chateaubriand, a kernel of delicate meat cut in the heart of the filet, — meat that is sold at two and a half francs a pound by the butcher — and the duck costs eight or nine francs at the poulterer's. Good provisions in Paris are dear, and when one considers the heavy expenses of the first-class restaurants, one cannot complain of their charges. As regards perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais heads the list. Its soups and sauces are exquisite ; a sole **a rOrly," '* Colbert," "normande," '*a la Join- ville," or " au vin blanc," may be eaten there in perfec- tion, and there is no restaurant in Paris where you can get a more delicate ** sauce diable " served to a grilled fowl. The two great tests of a French kitchen are soups and sauces; if these are. good, you may rest as- sured that everything else will be good. In the same category with the Cafe Anglais, both as regards quality of food and price, may be placed Du- rand's, opposite the Madeleine, and Adolphe and Pelle behind the Opera. Next come the Maison d'Or, the THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 158 Cafe de la Paix, Bignon, and the Cafe de Paris, in the Avenue de I'Opera, Voisin in the rue Cambon, the old Vefour in the Palais Royal, the Pere Lathuile, in the Avenue de Clichy, and Fayot, opposite the Luxem- bourg Palace. At all these restaurants you can dine delicately and drink as good wines as are still to be had in France. Voisin and Foyot, especially, have choice Burgundies of incomparable fineness. The third category of restaurants includes the Cafe Riche, which years ago belonged to the first category ; Brebant's, now a general Bouillon, at the corner of Boulevard Montmartre ; Chevilliard, at the Rond-Point des Champs Elysees ; Laurent, and Ledoyen, in the Champs Elysees ; Champeaux, Place de la Bourse, where you dine in a perpetual winter garden ; Edouard, Place Boieldieu, opposite the Opera Comique ; Wepler, Place Clichy ; La Perouse, on the Quai des Grands Au- gustins ; Maire, at the corner of the Boulevard de Stras- bourg and the Boulevard St. Denis ; Marguery, next door to the Gymnase theatre ; Perroncel, rue du Havre, opposite the Gare Saint Lazare. In the Bois du Bou- logne the restaurants of Madrid, and of the Pavilion d'Armenonville are much frequented in the summer by gay and smart people : the prices are about the same as at the restaurants in town of the second categor^^ that is to say, two can dine there modestly with ordinary wine for a louis. I presume that the traveller comes to Paris to taste Parisian cooking, and therefore I shall not recommend him to try the pseudo-English cuisine of Weber or Lucas in the rue Royale and Place de la Madeleine, or the Russian restaurant in the rue Marivaux, or the Hunga- rian restaurant in the rue Rougemont. There remain then to be mentioned only a few special establishments, such as the Pied de Mouton near the Central Market, and the famous tripe restaurant in the rue Montorgueil. There are several restaurants in Paris which make a 154 THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. Specialty of Bouillabaisse ; but I do not recommend that dish in Paris, for the simple reason that it is not the real article. In the Parisian Bouillabaisse several of the fish elements are wanting because they cannot bear transportation from the seaside. The traveller ^^^^r;;?^/ will prefer to wait until chance leads him to Marseilles, where the reigning chief of the great dynasty of Rou- bion will serve him this savoury dish on a balcony overlooking the blue Mediterranean. The cafe con- certs in the Champs Elysees are also much frequented by open air diners in the summer. The spectacle is curious and amusing, but the gourmet will flee the promiscuity and bustle of their dear and mediocre cuisine. To give precise details as to price is difficult. One may say generally that at the Cafe Anglais two persons can dine delicately and well without stint as to good wines or choice of dishes, for about two louis (forty francs). On the other hand, the single man who is pre- pared to spend not less than seven francs on his dinner may enter boldly any restaurant in Paris, from the Cafe Anglais downward, and dine for that sum on soup, one dish, cheese, and half a bottle of wine. For ten or twelve francs one may dine simply but abundantly al- most anywhere, except at the very tip-top houses, such as the Cafe Anglais, Durand's, and Adolphe and Pelle's. By way of practical hints I will subjoin a few observa- tions. Beware of hors d'oeuvres and baskets of fruit, for their influence on the total of your bill is alarming. If you are alone, resolutely refuse radishes and butter, or rather leave them untouched on the table before you ; if you have invited a friend to dinner, offer him ho7's d'oeuvres and hope that he will refuse ; if you are with a lady, ])oth hors d'a^iivrcs and the basket of fruit are obli- gatory. Eve offered fruit to Adam ; the least we sons of Adam can do is to return the politeness. THE RESTAURANTS OF PARIS. 155 The real gourmet eats by candle-light, because, as Nestor Roqneplan said, **rein n'est laid comme une sauce vue au soleil." When you enter a restaurant refuse as a rule the place that is offered you. Choose your own table, and if it is breakfast-time secure a view through the window and a view of the whole restaurant, and if possible let the light strike on the table from your left hand. Preserve your freedom of will, but do not try to im- pose it. You are the master, it is true, and yet to a cer- tain extent you must obey. Consult, therefore, with the fnaitre dlwtel, consider what he recommends, and accept it if it be to your taste, for in the good restaur- ants there is no question of passing off stale food. The maitre dliotel is flattered when you ask his advice, and it is his business to be acquainted with the special and daily resources of the larder. At places like the Cafe Anglais the written menu mentions only a few very ordin- ary dishes, and you will inspire respect by not asking for the carte. At Bignon's do not trouble yourself about the carte ; ask advice of the portly Louis, and do not dis- dain his counsel. In cookery as in love much confidence is necessary. Always ask for the wine list, la carte des vins, even if you end by selecting vin ordinaire. The richest people in the land drink vin ordinaire with their dinner, and dilute it with simple water. The traveller, therefore, need not fear to do likewise even in the most gorgeous restaurants. Champagne is not much drunk by French gourmets, and such champagnes as the Paris restaurants keep is sweeter than our people generally like. To the connoisseur in champagne I would say, "Do not drink champagne in France, for the best criis are to be found in England and Russia." If you desire fine red or white wines you will find the nomenclature and the prices on the list ; choose your Beaune, Pomard, Volnay, Nuits, or Moulin a Vent, your Tavel, Tonnerre, or Chamber- 156 THE RESTA URANTS OF PARIS. tin according to your taste and purse ; consult confi- dentially with the butler, and mind that you always address him as sommelier, and not gargon. The som- melier is inferior to the garfon in the hierarchy of table service, as 3^ou will see from his more humble and re- spectful demeanor. Ask for r addition, and not either la ca^^te or la note, which savours of provincialism. Verify 3^our change rapidly, and see that no pieces lurk on the plate beneath the bill. Be liberal towards the waiter, for it is the pourboire that secures you a smile when you arrive and a smile when you leave, a helping hand when you are struggling into your overcoat, obliging and ready ser- vice, and the appearance, nay, even the reality of friend- ship. In the three categories of restaurants mentioned above do not give the v/aiter less than fifty centimes, however modest your bill, and the more delicate and satisfactory your dinner, the more liberal let your pour- boire be, ranging from one franc up to five, calculated generally at the rate of five per cent, on the total of your bill. THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS. On the rue de Berri, a short street connecting the beautiful Champs Elysees with the splendid Boulevard Haussmann, stands a church edifice of which much is heard through the newspapers, but the history of which is not generally known. It is " The American Church in Paris," that being its formal title. With one excep- tion, it is the only American house of worship in Paris. The exception is its neighbor, the American Episcopal church, situated on the avenue de I'Alma, the thorough- fare connecting the Champs Elysees with Place de I'Alma. The former edifice is. however, alwa^^s known as *'The American Church." 157 158 THE AMERICAN CHURCH IN PARIS, It was founded early in the second empire, by the American and Foreign Christian Union of New York city. In 1857 the Union selected the Rev. Edward Nor- ris Kirk, D.D., of Boston, to commence the enterprise of securing funds for the purchase of the property, an undertaking which he courageously and successfully accomplished. In the same year the property was pur- chased by him and the American Church in Paris was established. Although American in name and built in response to a local demand for an American Church, all denomina- tions .contributed to its construction, all have aided in its support and it belongs alike to all, having from its inception been designed as a house of prayer for all people. Until five years ago it was known as the Amer- ican chapel. Dr. Beard, who was then serving it, changed chapel to church. Divine service is held every Sunday throughout the year, and on the third Sunday of the month a meeting is held in the interests of French evangelization. From October to June Sunday school and adult Bible classes are conducted, and the attendance is gratifying. A prayer meeting is held on Monday afternoons, and on Friday afternoons there is a meeting of the Ladies' Benevolent Association at some house designated on the previous Sunday. A cordial invitation is extended to all ladies sojourning in Paris to associate themselves with the work of this society. The church is, as before stated, an American church only in name, for all Eng- lish speaking people are welcome at the different ser- vices and are invited to associate themselves in the fellowship and work. To speak precisely, the American Church is a union church on the doctrinal basis of the Evangelical Alliance. It is supported by pew rentals, Sunday offerings and special donations. The pews contain six sittings and rent for S80 per annum. Certain churches in the United THE AMERICAX CHURCH IN PARIS, 159 States support pews for the benefit of their travelHng members and many Americans at home as well as in England and Paris rent pews which bear their names. The American Church has _ a library of over one thousand volumes, which is open on Sundays for the free use of visitors. In many other ways the church welcomes the stranger. Special interest is felt by the church in the large number of students prosecuting their studies in Paris. Dr. Thurber extends a general invi- tation to his friends and to friends of the church, resi- dent in or visiting Paris, to call upon him socially at his home, 13 avenue McMahon, near the Arc de Triomphe. He sets apart Wednesday as a special reception day, afternoon and evening, and courteously requests that those who worship at the church introduce- themselves after service or send him their cards. The structure was designed by E. A. Salmon in the thirteenth century style of architecture and it is similar to the church of vSt. Germain des Pres, Paris. The fagade is of the light colored Caen stone so commonly used in Paris. The plot is fifty feet wide. Interiorly the aspect is clean and fresh, and the atmosphere home- like and inviting. The building was entirely renovated some twelve years ago, during the ministry of Dr. Hitchcock, and since then it has been maintained in excellent condition. Above the mortuary chapel hangs a picture repre- senting "Christ Blessing the Children." It is a gift from the Hon. Leland Stanford and Mrs. Stanford, of San Francisco, in memorial of their son, who died eight years ago. The mortuary chapel itself is the gift of Mrs. Stanford. The body of her son was deposited here for five weeks, during which time ]\Ir. and Mrs. Stanford came every day, always bringing freshly cut flowers. Above the vestry hangs another picture, the gift of Mr. and Mrs. J. J. White, also Americans^, presented on the occasion of their departure from Paris. MUSEE DU LOUVRE. The Louvre Palace is a most magnificent building, the largest picture gallery in Paris or in Europe. The offices of the Minister of Finance occupy the greater portion of the modern building, while the more ancient portion, since 1793, serves as a Museum. The Painting and Sculpture Galleries, which contain many of the master-pieces of all periods, are open daily (except Mondays) from nine to five in summer and from ten to four in winter (Sundays and public holidays, ten to four). Among the works of the early Italian Masters the most remarkable are those of the Florentine school. The Virgin and Angels, by Cimabue ; St. Frangois Receiving the Stigmata, by Giotto ; the Virgin and Child, and the Conflict between Cupid and Chastity, by Perugino, and others by Fra Angelico, Gozzoli, Fra Filippo Lippi and Andre Mantegna. The most interesting of Raphael's works are : La "Belle Jardiniere; Apollo and Marsyas ; The Holy Family ; St. Michael Conquering Satan, and his superb portrait of Bernard Castiglione, painted in 15 16. By Leonardo da Vinci : St. John the Baptist ; St. Anne ; la Belle Ferronniere, and his celebrated Joconde. By Titian : The Entombment ; Christ at Emmaus ; Christ Crowned with Thorns ; Frangois I. ; L'homme au gant ; Alphonso Davalos and his wife ; Alphonse de Ferrare and Laura de Dianti. By Corregio : Marriage of St. Catherine, and Jupiter and Antiope. 100 MUSEE DU LOU VRE. 161 By Paul Veronese : The Meal at the House of Simon the Pharisee,and the Marriage of Cana. Among the paintings of the old Flemish school the most remarkable are : Jan van Eyck's Madonna revered by the Chancellor Rollin, and Memling's vSt. John the Baptist and St. Mary Magdalene. The Museum contains a considerable portion of Rubens's works, firstly the series of twenty-one allegori- cal paintings representing scenes from the life of Marie de Medicis, then Lot's Flight, the Adoration of the Wise Men, the Flight into Egypt, etc., the Portrait of Helene Fourment, his second wife, with two of his children, and the Flemish Fair. By Rubens' pupil, Van Dyck : Charles I. of England, a chef-d'oeuvre. Of the Dutch school there are several superb Rem- brandts : Angel of Tobias ; the Carpenter's Family ; the Good Samaritan ; Christ at Emmaus ; Woman Bath- ing, and several portraits by the same artist. By Fr. Hals : The Portrait of Descartes, and others. A few characteristic paintings by Dou, Metzu, Terburg, P. de Hooch, van Ostade, Jean Stern, Cuyp, Paul Potter, and some excellent landscapes of the same school b}^ Hobbema, van de Velde, Ruysdael, etc. Of the French school, which is largely represented : Charles IX. and that of his wife, Elisabeth of Austria. by Clouet, the first French artist worthy of note, who died about 1572. The Day of Judgment, by Jean Cousin, painter, sculp- tor, architect and mathematician. Of the seventeenth century, are paintings by Simon Vouet, Nicolas Poussin, Claude Gellee (called Le Lor- rain), Philippe de Champaigne, Eustache Lesueur, Ch. Lebrun, Jean Jouvenet, Mignard, Largilliere and his rival, Rigaud, who has left some excellent portraits of Louis XIV. and Bossuet. Arriving at the eighteenth century there are paintings 162 MUS£e DU LO U VRE, by Watteau. Boucher, Vien, Fragonard, Chardin, Lan- cret, Greuze, etc. At the beginning of this century the French school was regenerated by David. His principal pupils, Giro- det-Trioson, Gerard, Gros and Guerin, followed his example, as did also his contemporaries, Lethiere and Prudhon. A new revolution was brought about by Gericault, who was the head of the school of romantic painting. Then followed Ingres, Delacroix, Horace Vernet, Paul Delaroche, Hippoh^te Flandrin. A number of landscape painters, Th. Rousseau, Huet, Jules Dupre, Corot, Daubigny, Troy on and then Diaz and Millet brought forth new vigor in the direct study of nature ; and here ends the development of the art as far as one can follow it in the galleries of the Louvre Palace. The most in- teresting Salle is the famous square salon which con- tains the greatest gems of the entire Museum and forms in itself a complete collection of incomparable master- pieces. The Sculpture Galleries are divided into three classes, Ancient, Renaissance and Modern, and they occupy the ground floor. The gallery of Ancient Sculpture (on the Seine side) is rich in productions of different periods. The most remarkable are : Apollo Belvedere, Diana a la Biche, Gnidian Venus (of which the original is in the Vatican), Medicean Venus, a Minerva, Fragment of the frieze of the Parthenon, the Nointel Tablets, Torso of Jtmo, the Three Graces with modern heads, the celebrated Venus de Milo, the colossal Melpomene, Venus of Aries, Apollo Sauroctonus, Pallas of Velletr}^ Venus Genetrix, the Borghese Gladiator, Diana of Gabii, Centaur, Diana Huntress and the Tiber recumbent. The Renaissance Collection is in the south wing of the inner court and on the east side. The most remarkable are the works of Jean Goujon, Germain Pilon and M USEE DU LOU VRE. 163 Michael Angelo, particularly the Fettered Slaves, by the last named artist (151 3-1 516), destined for the Mausoleum of Pope Julius 11. The Collection of modern sculpture is on the west side of the ancient building and occupies six Salles bearing the names of the most celebrated French sculptors, from the time of the Renaissance to the middle of the present century, Puget, Coysevox, les Coustou, Houdon, Chau- det. Rude. The most recent additions are to be found in the last named Salle by Pradier and Dumont. MUSEE DU LUXEMBOURG. The Musee du Luxembourg is open daily, except Mon- days, from nine to five in Summer, and from ten to four in winter. Sunda3^s and holidays, ten to four. It con- tains a collection of works by living artists, in painting and sculpture. The most choice works are transferred to the Galleries of the Louvre ten years after the death of the artist, the others are assigned to provincial museums. Since 1886 the museum has occupied a new building in the Palace Gardens. Its fagade, decorated by Crauk, represents France recompensing Art. To the right, Orpheus Lulling Cer- berus to Sleep, by Peinte; to the left. Phaeton, by Houssin. In the vestibule a marble bust of Gericault,by Clere. In the Sculpture Gallery the Florentine Singer, by Paul Dubois ; Victor of the Cock Fight and Tarcissus, by Falguiere ; Love's Messenger and Dawn, by Dela- planche ; The Nest, by Croisy ; Joan of Arc, by Chapu ; Genius Guarding the Secret of the Tomb, by Saint- Marceaux ; Woman's Head, by Rodin ; Agar and Ismael, by Aizelin ; David, by Mercie ; Salammbo, by Idrac ; Immortality, by Longepied ; Fortune, by Franceschi ; Youth, by Carles, and Bailly, by Aube. Among the paintings most worthy of notice are : Salle I. Conquerors of Salamis, by Cormon ; St. Cuth- bert, a triptych, by Duez ; Henri III. and the Duke of Guise, by Comte ; Laghouat, by Guillaumet ; Venus, by the sculptor Mercie ; Woman's Head, by Ricard ; De- Hverauce of the Prisoners of Carcassonne, by J. P. Laurens ; St. Sebastien, by Ribot, and Fish, by Vollon. Salle II. The Birth of Venus, by Cabanel ; Haymak- ing, by Bastien Lepage; Job, by Leon Bonnat ; For- ward, by Roll ; The Poor P"'isherman, by Puvis de 101 M USEE D U L UXEMBO UR G . 165 Chavannes ; The Meeting, by Marie ; The Cock-Fight, by Gerome, and The Excommunication of Robert the Pious, by J. P. Laurens. Salle III. Chaste Susanna, by Henner ; Fortune, by Jean Baudry ; Ismael, by Cazin ; View of Venice, by Ziem ; Rezonville, by Morot, and Oxen, by Rosa Bon- heur. To the left a large painting by Benjamin Con- stant, The Last Rebels. Salle IV. Gleaner, by Breton ; Truth, by J. Lefebvre ; The Last Days of Corinth, by Tony Robert Fleury ; Two Small Military Subjects, by A. de Neuville ; Na- poleon III. at Solferino, by Meissonier ; a Large Land- scape, by Pelouse, and a View of Bercy, by Guillemet. Salle V. In the Country, by Lerolle ; Morning and Evening, by Jules Dupre ; Maid at the Fountain, by Bonvin ; Cain, by Cormon ; P'loreal, by Collin ; The Reapers' Pay-day, by Lhermitte ; All Saints' Day, by Friant ; The Dream, by Detaille, and For the Country. by G. Bertrand. Salle VI. The Arrest, by Salmson ; The Samaritan, by Ribot ; The Burial, by Ulysse Butin ; The Death-bed of Gambetta, by Cazin, and The Bearers of 111 News, by Jules Lecomte-Dunouy. Salic VII. The Satyr, by Gerveix ; Visiting Day at the Hospital, by Jean Geoffrey ; Naiad, by Henner ; The Baptism, by Renard. Salle Ylll. Sketches by different masters and a few paintings, among them the Abandoned Child, by Louis Deschamps. Salle X. The P'armer's Wife, by Roll ; Divnne Service on the Sea-shore, by Edelfelt, and the Sacred Wafer, by Dagnan. Salle XI. Vierge Consolatrice, by Bouguereau ; Fan and Dagger, by Falguiere ; the Beach, by Madame Demont Breton ; Saint Sebastien, by Henner ; the Ferry- man's Daughter, by Adan ; Mazarin, by Vetter, and Souvenirs, by Chaplin. MUSEE DE CLUNY. The Musee de Cluny is open to the public from eleven to five in summer and eleven to four in winter (Mondays excepted). It contains a most varied collection of mediaeval ob- jects of art, upwards of eleven thousand, dating from the seventh to the eighteenth century. The Hotel de Cluny is in itself an historical monument of the highest interest, uniting in one building, almost in- tact, the three finest periods of French architectural art. On entering the court-yard by a gateway, which merits particular attention, is to be remarked the prin- cipal fagade bearing the escutcheons and devices of the Amboise family. Entrance to the Museum, at the end of the court-yard on the right. Salle I. Carved wood, sculptured marble and alabas- ter, see 705, dating from the end of the fifteenth century. The glass cases contain buckets, medals and a leaden case which contained the heart of Louis de Luxembourg. Salle IL The collection of shoes of all periods and countries and the stone chimney-piece dating from the sixteenth century. Salle III. Curiosities in lead and bronze, inscriptions from the crypt of St. Denis, a Triptych of the Memling School and a large buffet in carved wood, dating from the fifteenth century. Salle IV. Furniture of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and a finely carved chimney-piece. To the left, the Andeoud Collection, specimens of Italian and Spanish art of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. On descending two steps from Salle IV. is a triptych of the Florentine school, buffet in carved wood (768), Italian paintings and a piece of French tapestry (6370). To the right, a large room containing sculpture, among which are Jeanne de Laval, wife of King Rene, in white 166 MUS^E DE CLUNY, 167 marble, curious statuettes of the fourteenth century, The Mourners, by PhiHppe le Hardi, taken from the tomb of the Dukes of Bourgogne and Berry; several Virgin Marys of the fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, etc. To the left of the corridor, three rooms containing tapestries made in Flanders during the reign of Louis XII.; in the cases, ecclesiastical ornaments and vest- ments of the sixteenth century, head-dresses, belts, etc. A Venetian lady's garment in point lace of the six- teenth century, and the mantles and collarettes of the dignitaries of the order of Saint-Esprit created by Henri III. in 1579. Buffets, cabinets and other works of art in wood and marble. In a room to the right, gala carriages, sledges, Sedan chairs, etc. The corridor on the first floor is decorated with armor, and in the two rooms to the right is exposed a magnificent collection of Italian and Hispano-Moorish faience. See the superb bas-reliefs in enamel faience from Lucca della Robbia and those from Lindos after the style of the Persian workmanship. At the end of these two rooms two fine tapestries of the fifteenth century, in the cases ; works in glass and enamel, carved wooden panels and large plaques in Limoges enamel by Pierre Courteys. To the left of the corridor a room containing French and Dutch faience (25 authentic pieces, by Bernard Palissy). The three small rooms at the side contain various paint- ings of the Italian school, furniture of the sixteenth century, etc. In the suite of rooms following, a state bed of the time of Francis I., manuscripts of the thirteenth cen- tury, works in ivory, various statuettes, objects in precious metals, etc. , etc. In the Chapel, a large altar-piece of the fifteenth cen- tury, carved choir-stall and chairs. Access to the gar- den is obtained by a staircase at the end of the Chapel. HOTEL DES INVALIDES. The Hotel des Invalides was commenced in 1670 after the designs of Liberal Bruant and finished in 1674 by Mansard, who designed the dome. The interior of the dome was painted by Jouvelt. In the two high chapels on each side of the circular crypt are monuments of Vauban and Turenne ; in the circular crypt the tomb of Napoleon I. with bas reliefs in marble by Simart and the twelve colossal figures by Pradier, symbolic of the Emperor's principal victories. The entrance to the Musee d'Artillerie is on the right hand side of the court yard of honor. The western wing consists of two galleries, and contains both foot and cav- alry armor of great value ; to the right several historical pieces, those of the High Constable de Montmorency, of the Duke of Guise, of Sully de Turenne, etc. , a bas relief of the Chateau de Pierrefonds and the history of the French flag from the time of Charlemagne. The left room contains suites of armor worn by the French kings from the time of Frangois I. down to Louis XIV. ; caval- ry armor and a variety of arms used by the different French kings; the swords of Frangois I. Henri II., Charles IX., Henri IV., Louis XIV., Louis XVL, Charles X., a rifle of Napoleon I. and thirty-one foreign flags taken from the enemy under the first empire. At the end of this gallery are rooms containing the war dresses of Africa, America and Asia. On the opposite side of the court yard is an historical gallery of arms and weapons from the most remote 168 HOTEL DBS INVALIDES. 169 ages down to the rifle invented in 1874, and a handsome collection of Oriental arms from Asia and Africa. On the floor above are specimens of war-dress dating from the most remote ages down to the year 1792. The room facing contains a collection of model artillery of every invention down to the year 1870. In the Cour de la Victoire a collection of cannon which were used by the French armies in different campaigns. The Chapel contains foreign flags taken during the different wars. PLACES OF INTEREST AND TIME FOR VISITING THEM. Places. Time for Visiting. Remarks. Arc de Triomphe All day. ; BiBLiOTHEQUE Nationale. . . Tues. and Thurs., i *BoN Marche ; Daily, 8 to 8. i Bourse i Daily, 12 to 3. I Buttes-Chaumont I All day. i*CATACOMBS j Saturdays. ID to 4. All day. Daily, 12 to 4. All day. Week days, 10 to 4. Daily, 11 to 5. Wed. and Sat., i to 3. Daily. Daily, 12 to 4. Tuesday and Frid., 12 to 3. Frid., 12 to 3, Tues., Thur.s., Sats., 2 to 3. All day. All day. All day (Tuesdays and Fri- days, best days to visit). [♦Luxembourg (Palais du) i Daily, except Mond., 9 to 6. Cemetery Pere-Lachaise. . . *Chambre des Deputes COLONNE VeNd6mE " DE JuiLLET (Bastille) *EcoLE DES Beaux-Arts *EC0LE DE MedECINE * Gobelins (Tapestry Manufac- tory). Halles centr. (Market) *H6tel des Invalides *HOT. des Monnaies (Mint). . Hotel de Ville . . . , 1 Jardin d'Acclimatation ... *Jardin du Luxembourg ... ♦Jardin des Plantes Madeleine (Church) MusEE DES Arts et Metiers. ♦Musee de Cluny MusEE DU Louvre *Notre-Dame (Cathedral) ♦Palais de Justice ' Palais-Royal ♦Pantheon SAlNTE-CHAfELLE I Saint-Denis (Abbey). j Sewers (]fcgouts) ^♦ToMi', of Napoleon .. Daily, after i o'clock. Sundays, Tues., Thurs- days, 10 to 4. Daily, Mondays excepted, I II to 5. Weekdays, Mond. except., 9 to 5. Daily, 10 to 5. Daily, 12 to 4. All day. Daily, Mondays excepted, j 10 to 4. Daily, 11 to 5. Daily, 8.30 to 5.30. l^TouR Eiffel ■ •Parc ue Montsouris Mondays, Tues., Thurs., I Fridays, 12 to 4. Daily. Daily. Sund. and holidays except. Sund. and holidays except. By special permission from the prefect de la Seine. Sundays, 12 to 4. By per. from the directors. By permission from the di- rector of works. Tickets to visit the conserva- tories, etc., may be had at the office of the administ. See galleries of paintings and sculptures, works of living artists. No visiting allowed during service. Other days apply to the ad- ministration from 12 to 3. Closed on public holidays falling in the week. Sundays, 10 to 4. Relics, ID to 5. The Towers, 9 to >^ past 5. Sund. and holidays except. To visit Dome an order is necessary from the admin- istration des Beaux-Arts. Crypt from i to 4. No visit- ing during service. By permiss. from Director of works, Hotel de Ville. Winter months, 12 to 3. N. B. — Places marked ♦ are on the bank of the Seine. 170 PLACES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT. Performances begin from 7.30 to 8.30 p.m. Most Theatres, etc., hold Matinees on Sundays. Theatres. Location. Booking office hours. Class of Entertain- ment. Opera Comedie-Fran9aise , . Opera-Comique Odeon GyMN'VSE Place de TOpera ". . 10 to 5 11 to 6 10 to 7 11 to 6 II to 7 II to 6 From II a.m. II to 6 II to 7 10 to 7 11 to 6 II to 6 II to 6 II to 6.30 11 to 6 II to 6 n to 5.30 11 to 6 11 to 9 12 to 5 II to 7 Lyrical (Grand Opera). Comedy and Tragedy (ancient and modern). Lyrical (Operas and Com- ic Operas). Comedy, Tragedy, Dra ma. Modern C o m e d 3'^ and Drama. Vaudeville and Comedy. Operettes, Opera-Bouf- fes and Light Comedy. Vaudeville, Comedies. Tragedy and Drama. Operettes and Opera- Bouffes. Operettes and Opera- Bouffes. Fairy Scenes and Ballet. Operettes and Burlesques Operettes and Opera- Bouffes. Operettes and Opera- Boufifes. Melodrama. Comedy and Drama. Light Comedy. Operettes and Opera- Bouffes. Comedy. Ballets, Pantomimes, Operettes. Place du Theatre - Fran- 9ais. Place du Chatelet Place de I'Odeon Bd. de Bonne-Nouvelle . . Rue de la Chauss.-d'Antin, Boulevard Montmartre. . . N. W. Corner of the Pa lais-Royal Boulevard Saint-Martin.. Passage Choiseul ... Boulevard Saint-Martin.. Place du Chatelet Square des Arts et Metiers. Boulevard des Italiens . . . Rue de Bondy Boulevard Saint Martin. . Rue de Malte Boulevard .St- Germain .. . Boulevard de Strasbourg. Boulevard du Temple. . . . Vaudeville Varietes Palais-Royal Porte St-Martin . . . Bouffes-Parisiens . . Renaissance Chatelet Gaite Nouveautes FoLiES Dramatiques. Ambigu Chateau-d'Eau Cluny Meni;s-Plaisiks Dejazet 6den-The.a.tre Rue Boudreau Concerts and Cafes-chantants. Location. Date and Time. Remarks. Cong. Populaire.s CoNc. Lamoireux... Concerts Colonne .. Ambassadeurs Alcazar d'^^te L'Horloge Cirque d'Hiver Chatelet-Theatre Sunday. Sunday. During Winter Months. During Winter Months. During Winter Months. During Summer Months. During .Summer Months. During .Summer Months. During Winter Months. All the Year. Champs-Elysees Champs-Elysees Champs-Elysees Bd. de .Strasbourg Bd. de Strasbourg Daily p.m. Daily p.m. Daily p.m. Daily p.m. Daily p.m. Eldorado Scala 171 Circuses and Varieties. Location. Date and j Time. . Remarks. Hippodrome | Avenue de TAlma | Daily. |From March to November Cirque d'I^^tk 'Champs-Elysees I Daily p.m. ;From April to October. .Cirque d'Hiver |Bd. des Filles du Calvaire. Daily p.m. From November to May, ;NouvEAU Cirque . . . Rue SaintrHonore Daily p.m. ~ - • Cirque Fernando. .. Rd. Rochechouart i Daily p.m. Folies-Bergere ..... Rue Richer i Daily p.m. From October to May. During Winter Months. I Variety Entertainments. | CABS. On hiring a cab, ask the Driver for his number [Nutnero). of complaint or inquiry. His ticket will serve in case Maximum Tariff within Paris. per hour. Cabs. per hour. F. C:. F. C. F. C. F. C. To seat 2 persons. I 502 252 002 50 " *■' 4 and 5 ! persons with or without gallery I top |2 002 502 50' 2 75 Landaus to seat i ; 4 or 6 persons. ,2 50 3 00 3 003 50 [ Beyond the fortificat. for hours. By day. Tariff per kil. for all Cabs provided with a distance controller. within PARIS. F. C. 2 50 2 75 3 00 Cabs. To .seat 2 persons. u i; ^ u^_ Landaus to seat 4 or 6 persons By day. Night.; '.5 ft Extra. F. C. F. C. F. C. 75 1 od 25 30 Y 50 ' 25 40 Day. In summer ironi 6 a. m. Winter from 7 a. m. to 12.30 a. m. Night. In " " 12.30 a.m. ' 12.30 a. m. to 7 a, m. The charge in case of a cab for 2 or 4 persons returning empty from beyond the fortifica- tions is of I franc, and of a cab for 6 persons, 2 francs. Luggage, — One parcel, 25 c. ; two parcels. 50 c. : three or more, 75 c. No charge for small parcels taken inside the cab. It is customary to give a small gratuity ox ^ourboire of a few sous to the driver. When hiring by time the first hour must be paid in full, after which the time may be cal- t.ulated by fraction. It is advisaljle when taking a cab by the hour to mention the time to the driver. Should there be any cause for complaint, apply to the guardian stationed at every cab- stand or to a policeman. Any article forgotten in a cab should be claimed at the Prefecture de Police (Bureau des objets trouv^s) 2, quai du March^-Neuf, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. 172 FRENCH COINS AND THEIR UNITED STATES VALUE. French. United States. 1 French. 'United States.! F— .;,p-. Sous. Dollars. Cents. Francs. Cen- times. Sous. 1 Dollars. Cents. •' 5 . 25 5 50 10 75 IS 1 TOO 20 2 " 40 5 : " 1 '°° I 1 5 10 15 20 40 10 20 50 100 500 1,000 5,000 !! ! 2 i 10 j 20 100 ! 200 i 1,000 The Bank of France issues notes of 50, 100, 500, 1,000, and 5,000 francs. Gold pieces are of the value of 5, 10, 20, 40, 50, and 100 francs. Silver pieces are of the value of 20 c, 50 c, i fr., 2 fr.. and 5 francs. Bronze pieces are of the value of i. 2, 5, and 10 centime^. Minor values are often quoted in sous instead of centimes ; the price of an article, for in- stance, is said to be of i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 10, 20. 40, or even too sous^ instead of 5, 10, 15, 20, 25. 30, 50 centimes, i f r . 2 fr., and 5 fr., respectively. COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH MEASURES. Metres. Yards. Inches. Metres. Yards. Inches. Metres. Yards. Inches. i I I 3H 12 13 4 ' 23 24 3^ ! 2 2 6J^ ! 13 14 7 24 26 8 .^ 3 10 14 15 11 ; -25 27 13 4 4 13 15 16 15 26 28 15 .•> 5 17 16 17 18 27 29 19 6 6 20 17 18 21 28 30 22 7 7 23 18 19 24 29 31 26 8 8 27 19 20 28 1 30 32 29 9 9 30 20 21 31 40 43 27 10 10 34 21 22 35 so 54 25 11 12 I 22 24 ' 1 ; ,00 109 14 ' Measures. — The unit employed for all measures is the metre, which is subdivided into centimetres and millimetres ; the metre is equivalent to i yard -^M inches. COMPARATIVE TABLE OF FRENCH AND ENGLISH DISTANCES. Kilomet. Miles. Yards. Kilomet. 1 MfLES. Yards. Kilomet. Miles. Yards. T 1090 1 72 7 760 50 30 17C0 ; 2 I 420 13 8 90 60 37 280 3 I 1510 14 8 T180 70 43 620 4 2 840 i '5 9 510 80 V) 960 5 3 170 ' t6 9 1600 90 55 1300 6 3 1260 ! 17 10 930 1 100 61 1640 7 - 4 590 1 18 II 260 1 200 123 1520 8 4 16S0 1 ^9 II 13:^0 I 300 185 1400 9 5 lOIO i 20 12 680 400 247 1280 10 6 340 1 30 18 1020 500 309 1160 1 1 ^ 1430 40 24 1360 j 1000 619 1560 Distances. — i kilometre is equal to 1,000 metres. 173 AMBASSADORS AND CONSULS. Hours ii a.m. to 2 p.m. United States Ambassador, 35 Av. Heche. United States Consul, 36 Av. de I'Opera. Passports may be had from the American Ambassa- dor ; although not necessary in France, they are often useful in case of admittance to public buildings or should one's identity be required. AMERICAN BANKERS. Hours 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Drexel Harjes & Co., 31 Boulevard Haussmann. Hottinguer & Co. (agents for Brown Bros., New York), 38 Rue de Provence. Munroe & Co., 7 Rue Scribe. Rothschild Freres, 21 Rue Laffitte. Seligman Freres & Co. , 32 bis. Boulevard Haussmann. Anglo American Bank, cor. of Rue Meyerbeer and Chaussee d'Antin. RELIGIOUS SERVICES. American Church, 21 Rue de Berri (Champs-Elysees), II A.M. American Episcopal Church, 19 Avenue de TAlma, II A.M. English Church, 5 Rue d'Aguesseau (60 Faubourg Saint-Honore), 11 A.M., 3:30 and 8 P.M. Christ Church, 49 Boulevard Bineau, Neuilly, 10:30 A.M. and 4 P.M. Church of England, 5 Rue de Bassins (near the Arc de Triomphe). Eglise de I'Etoile, 6 Avenue de la Grande-Armee, 10 A.M. and 4 P.M. English Congregational Chapel, 23 Rue Royale, 11:15 A.M. and 7:30 P.M. Church of Scotland. 17 Rue Bayard (Champs-Elysees). Wesleyan Methodist Church, 4 Rue Roquepine (near the Madeleine) 11 A.M. and 7:30 P.M. English Roman Catholic Church, 50 Avenue Hoche. 174 VERSAILLES. Versailles is situated about fourteen miles S. W. of Paris. Trains run from the gare Saint-Lazare on the right bank of the Seine and from the gare Montparnasse on the left bank — every hour — from thirty-five to fifty minutes' ride. Tramways run every hour from the Quai du Louvre (Paris) to the square in front of the palace (Versailles) — one hour and thirty minutes* ride. The Palace is within easy walking distance of the railway stations, and is open every day (Monday excepted) from ten to five in summer and from eleven to four in winter. The Palace of Versailles, as seen from the court yard, presents a less imposing aspect than from the garden side, where the fagade measures one thousand three hundred and sixty feet. The most interesting points of interest in the interior are : The Historical Museum, the first gallery of which, consisting of eleven rooms, contains a most valuable collection of paintings illustrative of the principal events in the history of France, dating from Clovis to the reign of Louis XVL Salle des Croisades. — The walls and ceilings of which are adorned with paintings, armorial bearings, etc., relating to the crusades. The Sculpture gallery and the salle de Constantine. In the second gallery, consisting of ten rooms on the first floor, are to be seen paintings descriptive of his- torical events from 1797 to 1835. 175 176 VERSAILLES. Salon d'Hercule, salle des Etats Generaux and Salon de la Guerre. The Galerie des Glaces.— From its windows may be had a splendid view of the park. Salle du Conseil and Salon de la Paix. The apartments of Louis XIV. and the Salle de rCEil-de-Boeuf. The rich and highly decorated Appartements de la Reine contain David's painting of the coronation of Napoleon and the marble statue by Vela (last moments of Napoleon). Galerie de VEmpire and the Grande Galerie des Batailles. The gardens behind the palace, which were laid out by A. Le Notre, the most celebrated landscape gardener of his time, are exceedingly beautiful. They possess probably the most splendid fountains to be found any- where, the working of which is estimated at an aggre- gate cost of ten thousand francs each time they play. The Grand Trianon, fifteen minutes walk from the terrace of the palace, was built by Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon. See the State carriages ex- hibited in a building a little to the right. The Petit Trianon, built during the reign of Louis XV., was the favorite resort of Marie Antoinette, who constructed a model Swiss village in the adjoining gardens. The Grand and Petit Trianon close at four P.M. EN PASSANT. It is always the best plan to drink the wines of the country through which you are travelling. On the Rhine, drink Rhine wines ; on the Mosel, take wines named after that river. If you persist in having French wine in Italy you will have to pay well for it ; Italy charges heavy duty on all wines brought across her borders. At railway stations in the States, when trains are about to start, conductors call out, "All aboard;" in Italy you hear ** Pronti ; " in France '* En voiture ; " in England, the more polite, '* Take your seats, please." Everybody in Paris who passes a house where a funeral is being conducted raises his hat, even peddlers and beggars ; so does every driver or coachman who passes in the roadway. It is a mark of respect for the dead and of sympathy for those who mourn. Women cross themselves. The same custom is observed if a funeral cortege passes you in the street. Do not call on lawyers at their offices, nor on any- body socially, in Paris, between the hours of twelve and tv/o ; everybody at that time is taking what we should call our luncheon, what they call their breakfast, or de- jeuner a la fourchette. They take it easy about noon- time in Paris, but they begin business at a much earlier hour than Londoners do. In London and New York omnibuses the charge is the same whether you ride outside or inside. In Edin- burgh you pay less for an outside seat. In Paris, omni- bus fare inside is thirty centimes ; on top or on the rear platform it is only twenty centimes. Women often stand on the platform the whole distance. 178 EN PASSANT. There are always some elegant looking voitures stand- ing in rue Scribe and about the Opera, in Paris. They are so handsome, the horses so sleek, the coachmen are so well dressed, the whole turnout so finely equipped that many people take them for private vehicles. They are for hire, all the same, but do not be inveigled into entering one with the idea that the fare is the same as for the ordinary or cheaper looking victoria, which may be had for two francs an hour. The law allows cabmen to charge higher when they are called from a stand than if hailed or "picked up " on the street. And you need not be surprised if one of these expensively gotten-up cockers charges you at the rate of five francs an hour. But there is speed in the horse, there is com- fort on the back seat of the carriage, and the whole turnout makes a rather stylish and private looking affair for an afternoon drive in the Bois. A dollar an hour for such a vehicle does not seem exorbitant to a New Yorker. Ask a gendarme in Paris to direct you to a certain location, and if he does not know he will pull out of his pocket a miniature street directory and give you the desired information, TIPS AND DRINKS. Talk about ''tips ; " at all drinking places of any pre- tension in Paris you must fee the man who brings you a glass of absinthe or lemonade. In the sultry days of last August I was a frequent applicant for seltzer-lemo- nade at "The Bodega," on the corner of rue de Rivoli and rue Castiglione, under the Hotel Continental, and I obtained some information from one of the waiters. Their wages are very small and the living expenses of a single man are from four to seven francs a day. They depend entirely on fees. The Bodega waiters in EN PASSANT. 179 Paris don't care about their own countrymen for cus- tomers ; they like Americans better than people of any other nationality. Where a Frenchman will give a sou, an Englishman two sous, an American will freely hand out half a franc, or a franc, if he is treating a party of three or four. At many places of public entertainment in Paris, at the Cafe de la Paix and at a.place of different character, the Moulin Rouge, for example, they have a system which makes it impossible for waiters to overcharge you as do waiters in a few restaurants in Regent street and the lower Strand. In these Paris drinking places, upon the porcelain saucer which holds your glass, is printed (burnt in colors) the price of your order. This method makes you independent of the waiter's tricks. You know exactly how much to pay him. In pleasant weather you do not enter a Paris cafe for liquid refreshment, day or night ; all Paris is out of doors. Thousands of people sit in front of the cafes and sip their lager or coffee, small iron tables and chairs being supplied for the purpose. A stranger may express surprise at the high price charged for a glass of bock, half a franc. There is a reason for the high rate. The proprietor or lessee of the cafe has to pay for the privilege of occupying space on the sidewalk. Cafe Brebant, in Boulevard Poissoniere, is taxed by the city five thousand francs ; Cafe de la Paix, on the Grand Hotel block, pays twenty thousand francs for this privilege. RESTAURANT PRICES. That clever magazinist, Theodore Child, whose un- timely death all readers deplore, probably knew more about Paris life than any other American. In discuss- ing the restaurants of Paris, he wrote : "As regards 180 • EN PASSANT. perfection of cooking, the Cafe Anglais heads the list. " This, without doubt, was true when Mr. Child wrote it many years ago, but the Cafe Anglais lives now on its old laurels. Its glory has departed. Its reputation has gone down, while its prices remain up. I tried the Cafe Anglais last summer for a modest breakfast, and this was my bill : Small lamb chop and fried potatoes, - fr. 2.00 Cup of coffee, - - - - 1.50 Bread, - - - - - .50 Butter, - - - - - .50 New York Herald. - - - .15 Fee to waiter, - - - - . 50 frs. 5.15 Here was over one dollar, or, if you deduct the waiter's fee, about one dollar, for a not very elaborate meal. I include the charge for newspaper because at most New York restaurants you can consult a daily newspaper, which is supplied free by the proprietor. The charge for a cup of coffee (thirty cents American money) I regard as quite high, considering that there is a separate charge for bread and a separate charge for butter. With a chop, potatoes and cup of coffee, for which in the States you would have to pay seventy cents, there would be no charge for bread, no charge for butter. The Cafe Riche, in Boulevard des Italiens, opposite Cafe Anglais, is also celebrated. It is a much larger place than the Cafe Anglais, not so quiet, select or stylish, but the prices are lower. The Cafe de la Paix, on the Avenue de I'Opera, is another expensive res- taurant. Indeed, I long since arrived at the conclusion that the restaurants of London and Paris are dearer than our own restaurants. In Paris you don't get a good cup of tea ; in London you seldom get a good cup of coffee. BY SEA TO ITALY. Americans, in planning a winter European trip, who include Italy in their itinerary, will, of course, either go or return by one of the large and well-appointed vessels of the North German Lloyd line. vSo will many who have no desire to visit Italy, but are bound for Switzer- land, for it is the most direct and a most interesting way of reaching the latter country ; via Genoa, then by rail or through the Italian lakes to Lucerne or Geneva. The Anchor line, three years ago, made a bid for this Mediterranean trade, but they went the wrong way about it : they put on their small ships, which did not become popular for this service, and the company soon retired from the field. The North German Lloyd people, undaunted by this failure, put into the service such vessels as The Fuerst Bismarck, the Fulda and the Werra, each over five thous- and tons gross tonnage, and success from the start crowned their efforts. Three of their steamers make this trip now\ winter and summer, and they go full, as a rule. The voyage to Europe this way is far more interesting than the ordinary route across the Atlantic. It is much longer, over four thousand miles, lasting eleven days. This is an advantage to those who go for health and pleasure, and there is a feeling of safety about it, as I will explain presently. But the voyage does not seem anything like so long as eleven days ; it is so varied and broken. You are only out of sight of land for the first four or five days. Before proceeding further let me offer a piece of ad- vice to those who make this voyage for the first time. 181 182 BY SEA TO ITALY. Even in midwinter it is comparatively warm, but in the summer months summer clothing is indispensable. Dur- ing the whole voyage, neither in day time nor at night, did I find even a light spring overcoat necessary, and I was on deck all day and every evening until bed time. But here are a few ''figures," which, it is said, '* do not lie." The thermometer in my state-room, during the whole voyage between New York and Genoa, never marked lower than seventy-two degrees, and this with the port, door and upper ventilator wide open. The same instru- ment, in the open air, on deck, as late as nine P. M. occasionally marked seventy-eight degrees. Of course it is well to be provided with rugs and wraps in case of necessity, but on this voyage we only used rugs for a couple of days. Even before we entered the Mediterranean the officers of the ship changed their blue cloth uniforms for white linen suits, the chief- engineer accompanying his suit with a white cap and white canvas shoes. They are a fine, manly set of fel- lows, these German officers, and present a pleasing ap- pearance in their white suits. You would judge that they had had military training ; their walk and bearing are soldierly and they are minus the sailor step and swagger. All of the passengers who possessed light suits fol- lowed the example of the officers, some of the men leaving off their waistcoats and the women appearing in white mull or thin linen blouses. On the iif th day out from New York you pass through the Azores, close enough to see the vineyards and the buildings on, one island and the white surf beating against the shores of two of the islands. On the morning of the eighth day you sight the coast of Portugal and a little later in the day you exchange signals with Cape St. Vincent, whence the name and position of your vessel are telegraphed to Gibraltar, and from there flashed over two continents. Cape St. Vincent is a very bold promontory with a BY SEA TO ITALY. 183 powerful light and large lighthouse which is visible to the naked eye from the ship. Visible also is a large barracks or coast guard station, originally built as an observatory and long tenanted by monks who devoted their lives to the study of astronomy. A few miles to the east of this bold cape is Punta Sagris (Point Sagris.) The ninth day, having left the Atlantic ocean and entered the Mediterranean sea, brings you through the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a delightful experience and a never-to-be forgotten sight if you make the Straits in daylight, as we did, the narrowest point being only nine miles wide. The land on both sides of the Straits is rather moun- tainous. On the European side you have the rock of Gibraltar (the ancient " Calpe "), one thousand four hun- dred feet high, and on the African side, Ape's Hill, ('* Abyla " the ancient), a mountain facing the rock and considerably higher. To be strictly accurate, the entrance to the Mediter- ranean is formed by Gibraltar and Ceuta, a Spanish colony in Africa of no importance except that it is the largest penal settlement of a series of five extending eastward along the African shore to almost opposite the French frontier. This circumstance will explain the jealous care with which France and Spain watch the course of events in the decrepid Moorish empire, the French being bent upon extending their Algerian fron- tier westward into Morocco and the Spaniards desiring an Extension in an opposite direction. Having passed the vS traits you " slow down " and presently drop anchor alongside the impregnable rock of Gibraltar, for which the British fought so hard and which they mean to retain. They use it only as a gar- rison, and at this time have about six thousand soldiers there under the command of Sir Lothian Nicholson, of the Royal Engineers, lately Inspector-General of Fortifi- cations for Great Britain. 184 BY SEA TO ITALY. The ships of the line under notice make a stop at Gibraltar, both in going to and coming from Genoa, and this gives all cabin passengers an opportunity to go ashore for a few hours and explore the quaint old Spanish town, for being literally in Spain, to which nation it once belonged, it is still Spanish to all intents and purposes, with this important exception — England owns and holds it, this key to the Mediterranean; and the Union Jack waves over its great guns and forts. In one or two particulars Gibraltar brings to mind Key West, Florida, which, although belonging to the United States, was once Spanish territory, and it has been called by one writer ' ' A Cuban City in the United States." As in Key West, both the Spanish and the English languages are spoken ; one as much as the other. All public notices are printed in both languages, and almost everybody who lives at Gibraltar speaks both. The driver will be explaining certain things to you in very fair English and in the next breath he will swear at a fellow driver or a btcrro in very hard if not very bad Spanish. But here the similarity ends, for the cities are as dif- ferent naturally as it is possible for two places to be. Gibraltar, as we all know, rises from the sea to great heights, and is surrounded by hills ; Key West is a low, flat, level island ; Gibraltar is hard and rocky ; Key West is soft and sandy. All the houses in Gibraltar are built of stone and will stand for ages ; in Key West they are wooden shanties which a very strong gust of wind might blow away. The streets of Key West are unpaved and dirty : the streets of Gibraltar are hard and remark- al)ly clean. Key West, for a part of the year at least, is not considered healthy ; Gibraltar is a winter sana- torium. The climate of Gibraltar has some qualities like those of certain parts of Southern California. Snow is never BY SEA TO ITALY. 185 seen in Gibraltar, and ice only when it is brought there. The climate is equable — temperature rarely over ninety ; never below forty. They have their winter, which is marked by rains ; on the other hand, months of summer pass without rain. They grow fruits in plenty — apples, oranges, lemons in great profusion, figs and the pome- granate. Gibraltar is an extraordinary fortress ; absolutely im- pregnable and in a position, incredible though it may appear, to sink any battle ship of the present day. In slang parlance Gibraltar is ' * up to date. " Three batteries have just been built on the summit of the rock, whence the artillery can drop shot and shell, vertically if neces- sary and directly on the deck of any ship which might have the temerity to attack the fort. The principal street of Gibraltar, Waterport street, has a decidedly cosmopolitan appearance. You see the costumes of many different nationalities, not only of Europe but the costumes of Africa — Spanish, English Arabs and Turks. This feature helps to make it pictu- resque in the extreme. They drink goats' milk, the animals being driven up to your door and milked into your own vessels. I remember remarking, a year or two ago, in an article entitled ** London on Wheels," that England was the only place I knew of where they drive to the left. I had not then been to Gibraltar, nor to Genoa or Flor- ence. That English peculiarity (not British, mind you) has skipped Scotland and Ireland, and planted itself in the three cities named. If on the road a carriage driver in Gibraltar meets a boy who is driving or riding on the wrong side of the road, both the boy and his patient burro will feel the thong of the irate driver's whip. You notice the same brutality here towards dumb animals which pains you in other parts of Spain, in Havana, yes, and in Paris. There is room in Gibraltar for a branch of the Royal Humane Society of London, or 186 BY SEA TO ITALY, the society with the too long name which Henry Bergh founded in New York. Gibraltar is the only place I know of where increase of population is not desired — it is, indeed, not allowed. The population is stationary. For several years it has been twenty thousand, and it is the same to-day. You cannot enter the place for a temporary visit, even, with- out a permit, and if it is your desire to reside there per- manently, permission is not accorded. England keeps it simply for garrison purposes and does not invite immi- gration. There are a few acres just outside of the fortifications which belong neither to Spain nor England. The plot is neither public nor private property, but is kept as neutral ground to divide the border line and ' * keep the peace." Within a mile of Gibraltar is the Spanish town of Linea de la Concepcion, which, owing to the restrictions upon foreigners and strangers desiring to establish them- selves in Gibraltar, is rapidly increasing in population and importance. There are two theatres (so-called) in Gibraltar, but none in the Spanish town hard by. Linea makes up for this omission by having a bull-ring which accommodates twenty thousand spectators. The bull fights occur in summer only and on Sundays, of course. To come back to the vessel again, you next sight Cape de Gatt, near which is Almeria, which sends quanti- ties of its grapes to the States. Then come the Sierra Nevadas, and for scores of miles, for hours and h ours, you keep in view snow-capped mountains. On the tenth day out you pass the Balearic Islands, named Yviza, Majorca (the largest), and Minorca (the smallest). On the morning of the eleventh day, in the Riviera, you sail along the southern French coast, passing Mar- seilles, Nice, Monte Carlo, Cannes, Mentone, etc., getting BY SEA TO ITALY, 187 a fairly distinct view from the ship of the churches, hotels and large buildings in those places. These cities are backed by the Maritime Alps, some of which are still snOw-covered, and this grand panorama, as viewed from the deck of a moving steamer, you will please imagine, as these notes, made en route, are mere "hurry- graphs," a phrase coined by N. P. Willis. The reader will fill in the picture for himself. In a hasty article, away from my desk and accustomed haunts, I can only sketch the merest outline of these impressive and beau- tiful scenes. At last you are under Italian skies. The German flag is raised to the peak of one mast, the Stars and Stripes are hoisted to the main truck of another, to the top of a third goes the flag of the North German Lloyd — blue key and anchor, on a white ground. The captain is on the bridge, with a marine glass in his hand. Long before you reach the bay of Genoa the white buildings of the city come in view, and these, backed by the hills and the fortresses on them form a bold and strik- ing picture. In entering the harbor you will not fail to notice six ironclads of the Italian navy. They look as if they might be able to give a good account of them- selves if a dispute occurred. The Fulda cannot boast of a twin screw, nor has she triple expansion engines, as some of the later ships of this line have, but there are electric lights and other modern improvements, and her staterooms are large and comfortable. Probably no steadier ship crosses the ocean. Even when there's a "a little sea on," and when other vessels might roll or pitch, there is very little motion to the Fulda. The Fulda's commander. Captain Thalenhorst, is tall. well formed, erect, with a decided military bearing, but every inch a sailor, and very much of a gentleman. Unlike many of the bluff English captains, he not only attends to the sailing of the ship but attends also to the 188 BY SEA TO ITALY, wishes and comforts of the passengers, and eagerly watches for opportunities to entertain them, playing host as if they were his invited guests. On English ships the decks are washed at night or in the small hours of the morning, and for this reason, even if the sea be smooth, all stateroom ports are closed at night, making the air stuffy and close, producing white tongue and a headache in the morning. Captain Thalen- horst manages things differently. He w^ashes his decks in midda}^ and so the ports are only closed, unless such action is demanded by the weather, while the passen- gers are at lunch or dinner. And this illustrates his spirit of accommodation. He seems to have adopted the motto of the Leland family of hotel-keepers : ** We Study to Please/' THE BIRTHPLACE OF COLUMBUS. Letters written to or received by Shakespeare are in existence. I saw one last summer at Stratford-on-Avon. It reminded me of letters of Robert Burns which I had seen — in the Burns Monument in Edinburgh, because in both cases the letters touched on matters of money. In the Scotch poet's case he would be a borrower ; in that of the English poet he was begged to lend money. Burns was always poor ; Shakespeare, besides being a great poet, was practical, notwithstanding the state- ment of some philosophers that the two qualities are not found together. Letters in Shakespeare's hand are not in existence, so I was informed at Stratford, unless there be one, as I believe there is, at the British Museum. As to the por- traits of the bard, nothing satisfactorily definite is known as to their authenticity. Who knows where Homer first saw the light of day ? But I fancy that I hear the reader ask what has all this irrelevant prattle about Burns, Shakespeare and Homer to do with the title of the article? Not much, to be sure, only the question of the birthplace of Columbiis is as much unsettled as one of the preceding points, or as the year in which he was born. Genoa, among other Italian cities, claims to be the birthplace of Columbus, with proof to substantiate her claim, but there are also several houses in Genoa, each of which is said to be the house in which the renowned Christopher Columbus first saw the light of day. Landing at Genoa last July from the deck of the Fulda, I gave the matter 189 THE COLUMBUS HOUSE. 190 • THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US, 191 as much time as I could afford in my brief tour of Italy. And then the temperature of an Italian July interfered with my discoveries concerning the discoverer. I may not, after all, have seen the house in which Columbus was born, although it was pointed out to me in different parts of the town, but I did find the house in which lived for many years Domenico Colombo, the father of Columbus, and the Great Admiral himself. It is numbered 37 in the Vico Dritto Ponticello. Imme- diately next door, one way, is numbered 35, a small grocery shop ; directly next door again, on the other side, is numbered 69, a little shoe shop. You may drive to '* the top of the street," as they say in London, but not through the street. It is not wide enough for a vehicle to pass through, unless that vehicle is a baby-carriage or donkey-cart, for the high- sounding Vico Dritto Ponticello, be it known, is only fifteen feet wide. Our driver was good enough to leave his horse and carriage at the said "top of the street," for which rest thus obtained the poor, abused animal was no doubt duly thankful. With the driver we stayed a long time in front of the house, examining it closely and copying the inscription, and when we returned to his steed the driver found himself under arrest for abandoning his horse, leaving him alone in the public highway. I used some silvery language in explaining to the policeman the reason for the delay and then we were allowed to proceed. And this brings to mind a saying of my dear mother's, when I used to remark that I could not make myself clearly understood in a foreign tongue : * ' My son, you have that in your pocket which speaks in all languages." The municipal policemen of Genoa are not much more than half the size and weight of members of the Broadway squad, but they look very neat and tidy in their black caps and black cloth suits, minus metal but- 19S THE BIRTHPLACE OF COLUMBUS. tons. The coat is made single-breasted with skirts reaching below the calf of the leg. He had an eye for form, did the man who designed this uniform ; it gives a little more height to the little Italian. London and New York policemen carry clubs ; gen- darmes of Paris threaten with a small sword ; the municipal police of Genoa protect themselves with a stick or mace over four feet long. It is highly polished and resembles a Malacca cane. The long stick has a silver top upon which these words are engraved : * ' Re- spect the Law." But this is not getting to the house in the Vico Dritto Ponticello. You will have no difficulty in getting to it in Genoa if you find your way to the First Gate of the old city, to the City Prison or to the ancient church which Columbus built. These buildings are very near the spot. Nearly all of the surrounding houses are of six or seven stories ; No. 37 is five stories high and barely twelve feet wide. It has a very plain, undecorated front of stucco, which is in a fair state of preservation. The windows have Venetian blinds, painted green. The main entrance is through a double door of iron and there is a side door which was probably used by the servants of the family. On the door is an iron ring fouf inches long, which was evidently used for the double purpose of handle and knocker. About fifteen feet from the ground there is a white marble tablet, three feet by two feet, in which this inscription is cut in old-fashioned Roman characters : Nulla Domus Titulo Dignor Heic Paternis in Aedibus Christophorus Columbus Pueritiam Primamque Juventam Transegit. THE BIR TH PLACE OF COL UMB US. 193 HOTEL DE (xENES, GENOA. Genoa, the most important town in Italy from a com- mercial point of view, has increased in importance, at least for Americans, now that the North German Lloyd line sends its fine steamers hither. It has good hotel accommodation. The largest, best appointed and most expensive house is The Isota, on the principal thorough- fare, convenient to many points of interest. But a very comfortable and modest house is the Hotel Genoa, or, to give its title in full, the Grand Hotel de Genes. It has fifty years' reputation. It is in the most central part of the city — in via Carlo P'elice, and fronts on a large square, Piazza Deferrari, whence you can take a car to the Campo Santo (the famous cemetery), the grand palaces, the noted churches, the Exposition grounds — to all the principal sights, in fact. The Teatro Carlo Felice is on one side of the .piazza, the post office is but a step away, on Via Roma, one of the principal shopping streets, which leads to the statue of Victor Emmanuel and the public gardens. The Hotel de Genes is solidly constructed; the stairs are of white marble and the floors of the bed rooms are laid in mosaic marble. They are warm enough and require nothing over them in summer time in the way of carpets. The house has electric lights and an elevator. The rates at Hotel de Genes are : breakfast, one and a half lire ; luncheon, four lire ; dinner, five lire ; rooms according to size and location, from five lire per day — a lire being equal to a franc, say twenty cents. Among the guests whose names have appeared on the books within the past few years are the Duchess of Talleyrand, the Earl of Carnarvon, the Princess of Battenberg, the Count and Countess Schouvaloff of Russia; De Struve, Russian Ambassador to the United States ; Baron Adolphe De Rothschild ; Prince HohenzoUeni and suite, and a host of other titled and distinguished people. 194 THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US, The Hotel de Genes has accommodation for more than one hundred guests. Proprietors, Bonera Freres ; tele- graphic and cable address : " Bonera, Genes.'* HOTEL ROYAL DANIELI, VENICE. There is good hotel accommodation in Venice ; among the leading houses are the Grand Hotel, Hotel de L'Europe, Hotel Brittannia, and, to mention it last, though it is one of the first in size and appointments, the Hotel Royal Danieli. Its situation, directly on the border of the lagoon and the Grand Canal, affords fine water views and landscape pictures. - The house is centrally located. The Doge's Palace, with its wonderful pictures and frescoes, and the Piazza St. Marco (the great, square) are but a few hundred yards distant, while the steamboat wharf where you embark for the Lido, a pretty place one half hour dis- tant on the shores of the Adriatic, is almost at the front door of the hotel. Thirty minutes' sail to the Lido where you bathe in the open sea. Hotel Danieli was once a palace, the residence of Doge Dondalo. I am speaking of what was the case five hundred years ago ; just think of it — before Columbus was born. They knew how to build in those days, for the palatial structure shows no signs of wear. You might suppose it was erected only half a century ago. Of course, parts of it are occasionally "restored " and renovated. One of the salo?is is a gorgeous apartment in size and decoration, and would not discredit a palace of the present day. It is forty-one by nineteen feet, with a heavily decorated ceiling twenty-six feet high. The great doors of this noble apartment are set in heavy marble casings heavier and richer than the marble cas- THE BIR THPLA CE OF COL UMB US. 195 ings which surround the doors and windows of the palace which A. T. Stewart built in New York, and which is now the home of the Manhattan Club. Above each door is a massive ducal crown, gold on a green ground, extending from the door casing to the ceiling. The sofas and chairs of the salon are unusually large, to be in keeping with the great apartment ; they are richly gilded and upholstered in green velvet. There are two lifts in the house, also a railway office. You can purchase your tickets and have your luggage registered before you leave — a convenience no other hotel in Venice offers. You and your luggage are taken to the railway station in a gondola into which you step from the door of the hotel. The Hotel Danieli accommo- dates three hundred guests. Single rooms from three to six francs ; breakfast, two francs ; luncheon, four francs ; table d'hote dinner, five francs, which does not include wine. Proprietors, Genovesi «& Campi. THE HOTELS OF LUCERNE, SWITZERLAND. There is probably a greater number of large and finely appointed hotels in Lucerne than in any other place of its size in either hemisphere. Lucerne, situated on "the lake of the four Cantons/" with the summits of Mount Pilatus and the Rigi within very easy reach by railway, is a great rendezvous and centre for tourists, several railway lines having their terminus here. Steamboats start from here for all points on the lake. In a few hours by rail, through the St. Gothard tun- nel, over, under and around the mountains, and along the edges of some wondrously beautiful Swiss and Italian lakes, you reach Milan, the views en route being sublimely grand. In another direction Paris is reached in less than twelve hours by day or night. For its size, again, it is probably more cosmopolitan than any other town in the world. All the residents speak German and French, and everybody in the public places knows enough of English to make himself or herself understood. I refer to shopkeepers, hotel- keepers, chambermaids, cabbies, etc. The flags of all nations are seen at different times on the rowboats hired by strangers who represent the different nation- alities. The German and French flags predominate ; next in number come the Union Jack and Stars and Stripes. The leading hotels of Lucerne proper are all clustered near each other, not far from the railway station, the steamboat landing and the Kursaal, or Music Hall. The Schweizerhof, accommodating six hundred guests, will compare in its appointments with the hotels at leading summer resorts elsewhere ; not with the Metropole at Brighton, England, nor with the *' States " at Saratoga, but it ranks in the first class. 196 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLANI), 197 The Lucernhof, which is next door to and connected with the Schweizerhof and under the same management, is also a large and well appointed hotise. By the way, in Miss Braddon's last work, " The Venetians," there is a reference to the Schweizerhof. In the Taiichnitz edi- tion, which does not, as a rule, find its way to the United States, appears this paragraph in Volume 2, p. 96 : "They loitered by the great Swiss lake until the October mists began to make Pilatus invisible. They lingered under Mr. Hauser's hospitable roof so long that the great St. Bernard lifted his head and howled an agonizing farewell when the carriage drove off to the station with Eve and her husband." Since the book was written and printed both the master and his faithful dog have passed away. But Mr. Hauser left two sons, and they seem to have inherited some of their father's popularity. At all events the Schweizerhof does a prosperous summer business. During the height of the season it is not only full, but its overflow frequently helps to fill other houses. The National is probably not so much talked of as the Schweizerhof. The latter is indeed the only hotel in Lticerne that is mentioned by guide-book Murray; it owes its prestige doubtless to its age and its association with the early history of Lucerne as a resort for tourists. But the National is not only not excelled by any hotel in Lucerne, btit is probably the finest hotel structure in Switzerland. It occupies a whole block, with its grand front overlooking the lake, down to the edge of which the grounds of the National graceftilly slope. The .structure is of stone, and its public rooms are magnificent. The Hotel de L 'Europe is a pleasant house about a mile from the business part of the town. It stands in its own well shaded grounds, on a main drive. A few steps from the National Hotel and the Kursaal is the Beati Rivage Hotel, not too long a walk from rail- way or steamboat and yet in a quiet and beautiful loca- 198 HO TELS OF L UCERNE, S WITZERLA ND, tion, affording choice views of the lake and surrotinding mountains. The Beau Rivage was erected twenty-three years ago, but the house has since been greatly im- proved. New public rooms have been constructed, the plumbing is new and so is the furniture. The Beau Rivage, as before remarked, is in a quiet neighborhood, and moreover, it is a very select house, well suited for families for a protracted stay. If you want brass bands and high life it is easy to enjo}^ them for an hour or the whole evening. Step across to the National or to one of the other large hotels down the street, and you will soon be in the midst of a bustling and busy life. A feature with the National, the Beau Rivage and the Schweizerhof is that each of these three hotels has a library of several hundred choice volumes for the use of its guests. The books are uniformly bound and each one bears the name of the hotel on the cover, in gold letters. But the Beau Rivage has another feature which is altogether unique in hoteldom, so far as my experience goes. It has its own fish ponds — fish ponds in the house. The manager argues that trout only make a perfect dish when they are perfectly fresh, so he has a couple of trout tanks in the basement in which fresh water is flowing constantly and in which a good supply of trout and a few other kinds of fish are kept. There are two tanks, each about three feet wide by four feet long and three feet high. Beside them con- veniently stands a hand net. Does a guest order a dish of trout } The chefs assistant is quickly transformed into a disciple of Izaak Walton and, luck or no luck, he will very quickly " land " as many fish as may be re- quired. I have since learned that there is a hotel in Bale which also has its tanks and keeps its fish alive, ready to be caught. The manager of the Beau Rivage, Mr. Richert, has had hotel experience in London ; he was for ten years in a Nice hotel, and to quote a slang expression that was HO TELS OF L UCERNE. S WITZERLA ND, 199 current in New York some years ago, he " knows how to keep a hotel." The rates at Lucerne hotels are not high. At the majority of the leading houses these figures rule • — Rooms, from three and a half francs ; breakfast, one and a half francs ; luncheon, three and a half francs ; table d'hote dinner, five francs, without wine. These figures, at the Beau Rivage, Schweizerhof and some other hotels, include lights and service ; at the National these items are charged for separately as " extras." The Beau Rivage is open from April to October, the National and Schweizerhof are open the entire year. In some of the Swiss hotels you not only place outside your door on retiring, your shoes, but your clothes also — those which you wish brushed. A hook is placed on the door-casing on which to hang your clothes. They will cheat you at the railway stations in Italy, if they can, and the officials on steamboats which ply the Swiss lakes will try to overcharge you if they discover that you are not familiar with the charges or with the current coins. If you are making much of a tour in countries whose language you do not understand, by far the best plan, is to piirchase tickets of Cook or Gaze. You pay these agents only the regular fares, and hold- ing their tickets saves you a deal of time, trouble and annoyance. In the stations of all the principal cities of Italy and Switzerland you will find a Cook agent in tmi- form, with the word " Cook" in large silver letters on his black cap. He will aid you in registering and hand- ling your baggage, he will secure for you the best seats in the train, and otherwise make himself useful — without a fee. His employer receives a commission from the railway companies. About travelling with Cook's par- ties I know nothing except from hearsay, but I have purchased and used Cook's tickets, and heartily recom- mend others to do so— those more particularly who are not linguists. But in any and every case you save an- noyance and confusion at the stations. THE DE SOTO. SAVANNAH, GEORGIA. The city of Savannah, with its balmy air, its far famed Bonaventure Cemetery, its pretty parks, broad streets and many natural attractions (acknowledged to be one of the most attractive Southern cities), was long avoided by many pleasure tourists, because it had no hotel worthy of a city claiming fifty thousand inhabitants and doing a business of over one hundred and thirty millions of dollars annually. Savannah is the greatest cotton port in the world — New Orleans excepted. Savannah has deep water and good docks. Sometimes as many as thirty English ships are in this port at the same time. They take cotton di- rect to foreign ports. Savannah is easily approached from North and South : presently it is to have communi- cation with the west — direct from Kansas City. When these and other contemplated improvements are made, Savannah expects to experience an era of great pros- perity. It is predicted that the city will double its popu- lation in the next ten years. 200 SAVANNAH. GEORGIA. 201 Anyone who donbts that Savannah is steadily moving forward in prosperity has only to take a glimpse at the tax returns made to the cit}^ treasurer for 1891, to ha\^ the doubt quickly dispelled. In 1890, the returns of personal property footed up $9,948,048, and in 1891 they were considerably over $10,000,000, the increase being about $500,000. The banks alone in '91 made returns of $506,000 in excess of 1890. This shows that there is a great demand for banking institutions. Real estate has increased $1,300,000. Such being the present condition and future prospects of Savannah, it was time that some movement were made for the better entertainment of visitors, so at last the citizens put their heads together and concluded that no matter how rich a city is in natural attractions, the climax of success is only capped by railway facilities and first class hotels. Mr. H. B. Plant, head of the Plant System, furnished the railway facilities, and now the citizens of Savannali have supplied the hotel. They formed a stock com- pany, subscribed a million of dollars and opened the De Soto, two years ago, which proved to be exteriorly one of the handsomest houses in this country, if not in the world, and interiorly one of the best appointed — in keeping with the American idea. Savannah never had a habit of going across the seas for hotel names. It boasts of no Victoria, no Bucking- ham, no Imperial, but it has a Screven, named after a prominent Georgia family ; a Pulaski, named for a mil- itary hero, and now a De Soto, in honor of the discov- erer of the Mississippi river. Savannah is nothing if not patriotic. It has a Monterey square, a Forsyth park, and among its monuments are the noble columns erected to perpetuate the memory of three revolutionary heroes — Jasper, Green and Pulaski. The De Soto cost a round million of dollars. It occu- pies an entire block. 202 SAVANNAH. GEORGIA, Within five minutes* walk of the house is Forsyth park, with its acres of forest trees, and plenty of japon- icas and roses in full bloom at this writing, January 26. In the centre of this park there is a handsome fountain, modeled after the grand fountain in the Place de la Concorde, Paris. It is a mistake and a pity to half hide it behind japonica trees and rose bushes, from six to eight feet high. It is very enjoyable to sit in any of Savannah's pretty parks these days, say between noon and four o'clock. There is no danger of taking nor of feeling cold. At night and in the early morn the air is cool (36 to 42 degrees), but in the afternoon it is soft and balmy— any- where from 56 to 76 degrees. It is an old habit of mine to carry a thermometer in my satchel, so I am not de- pendent on the hotel instrument nor on hearsay for my facts and figures concerning the temperature. Frost is rarely seen in Savannah, and they never get a sight of snow unless some of the "beautiful" article should remain on the car roofs of trains coming from the North. The De Soto can accommodate four hundred guests, and besides, the dining-room and the smaller '' early breakfast-room " on the main floor, there is a banquet- ing hall on the first floor in which two hundred guests can sit down comfortably. A novel feature for a hotel is a gymnasium, on the sixth floor, and above this, at the very summit, there is a large '* Solarium," fitted up with chairs, tables and lounges. Here you can sit, bask in the sun, and, as Walt Whitman says, ''loaf and invite your soul." In this elevated position you get a magnifi- cent view of Savannah and the surrounding country — as far east as the Tybee coast, twenty miles distant. P. vS. — This is called a cold winter in Savannah, yet at six A.M., Thursday, January 29, the thermometer marked sixty degrees. THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. Time, eleven A.M., February i. — Your correspondent is seated at his bedroom window ; there are two large windows in the room, and both are wide open. The apartment is twenty feet square with a twelve-foot ceil- ing ; it is not heated artificially and yet the temperature in it is seventy-two degrees. This is not said from hearsay, nor is the record taken from a hotel thermome- ter, which may be unreliable, but from a portable ther- mometer of my own. When the Place was Settled. — People ask, "How old is Thomasville : when was it first settled ? " The writer can answer this question because he had the good fortune to be presented to no less a personage than Mrs. M. A. Bower, a most charming woman to look at and to converse with, who is proud of her fifty-six years, but whom you would judge to be at least ten years younger. Mrs. Bower was the first white child born in Thomasville, and in the first real house erected in the place. It stood on the present site of the Mitchell House. Mrs. Bower is the daughter of Colonel and Mrs. Edward Remington who came here from Pawtuxet, R. I., in the year 1828. Set it down for a fact then that Thomasville is three score years old. Location. — Thomasville, the capital of Thomas county (this is not from a gazetteer, please believe), stands three hundred and thirty feet above sea level, being on the highest ground between Macon and the Gulf of Mexico, in the Uplands of Georgia. It is two hundred miles from the Atlantic, sixty miles from the Gulf of Mexico as the bird flies, twelve miles from the 203 204 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. Florida State line, a thirty-three-mile drive from Talla- hassee, and is reached from Jacksonville at the South or from Savannah coming from the North in a few hours by way of Waycross or Jesup, two places not particu- larly attractive to the tourist but quite useful as w^ay stations, affording junctions for several lines of rail- road. Health and Pleasure. — Thomas ville was at one time simply a health resort : people with consumption or other lung or throat diseases came here for relief and they found it. They, the sickly people, still come to get well ; but beside being a health resort it is now also a place for pleasure. Fashion has set its seal on Thom- asville. New York and Boston are well represented among the visitors, but the West especially favors Thomasville, and St. Paul, for its size, sends more peo- ple probably than any other city. A number of St. Paul citizens have cottages here and have set up fine establishments. Ladies dress for the morning ride or drive ; they dress for the mid-day dinner and again for the evening dance. Ladies at the hotels exchange visits with the cottagers, also with the townspeople, the per- manent residents giving strangers a warm, Southern welcome. Features of the Town. — To-day Thomasville has churches of all denominations (including a Jewish place of worship), two hotels far superior to any between Baltimore and Jacksonville, unless exception be made of the new Oglethrope at Brunswick ; a number of smaller hotels, numerous boarding houses, two daily newspapers, several good private schools, a flourishing college for girls and one for the other sex, a railway di- rect to the town — and five thousand inhabitants. The boys' college is a branch of the State University and has at present two hundred and fifty pupils. The other in- stitution, called "Young's Female College," was en- dowed by a (reorgian, and the charge for tuition is so THOMASVILJ.K. GEORGIA. iW low as to be nominal, ten dollars per year to each pupil. So the religiously inclined have ample opportunity to worship at their particular shrine, and the educational advantages of Thomasville are good. Nature's Gifts. — The reputation of this place was gained by its dry and balmy atmosphere, its even tem- perature, its health-giving pine forests and by its free- dom from cold or sudden changes. The United States Signal Service report shows that the average winter temperature is about fifty-live degrees, and the average temperature last July, the hottest month here, was eighty-two degrees. While the winter days are warm the mornings and nights are pleasantly cool, and it never snows here. Once during the past fourteen years they did have a flurry of snow. It happened on a Sunday and the churches remained empty ; so interested were the inhabitants in the uncommon sight that they ne- glected the church and all took to snowballing. You need no overcoats nor wraps for outdoor wear, except, perhaps, for an evening drive, or for rainy days ; but an umbrella or parasol to protect you from the heat of the sun is indispensable. I am speaking of needing such an article at the present time. February i. The Pinev Woods Oak. — To those coming from the North the sight of the trees in full leaf is as agreeable as it is strange. The pine, live-oak, hemlock and holly all have their branches thickly covered. There is a gorgeous live-oak on the grounds of the Piney Woods Hotel whose spreading branches measure sixty feet across. There is still a larger one in the town, which people travel miles to see. It spreads ninety feet across. But beauty does not always consist in bigness. The Piney Woods oak is both beautiful and big, but its sym- metrical beauty is its main attraction. Is it too warm on the hotel porch? Are the .sun's rays too fierce? Cross over the road, fifty yards distant, and seek a com- fortable bench or rustic seat in the grateful shade of 206 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. the pines, in what is popularly termed ** Yankee Para- dise," but known more correctly as Paradise Park. It includes thirty acres laid out in walks and drives. There is no ice to make your step unsteady, but the needles of the pines render the paths rather slippery. When to Come. — You can pick violets in the open air and pluck in the fields a small bouquet of daisies at this writing, but to see Thomasville at its best, I am told that you most come a little later than this, when the grass is all green. You can then pluck wild roses to your heart's content. Then the pear orchards will be in full bloom, and the dogwood blossoms are a sight to behold. I have been here only three days and have seen no rain, but the soil is sandy and one can readily believe what enthusiasts say, that an hour or two after a long and heavy rain walking is again pleasant, the rain having percolated through the ground, leaving the surface perfectly dry, if not hard. And there is seem- ingly no end of lovely walks. You get out of the town in five minutes, and if you are bent on pedestrian exercise, and have an eye for beautiful scenes, turn your steps in any direction and you will make no mistake. What to Bring. — If the ladies of your party are equestriennes, by all means let them bring their riding habits with them : everybody rides. Driving, too, is largely indulged in, the roads being hard, smooth and unusually wide. They extend for miles and miles through the pine woods, and their picturesque beauty you will please imagine ; it is not easy to describe it without using more adjectives than I have at my com- mand en route. To sportsmen let me say, do not come without your dog and gun or you will never forget nor forgive the error. Wild turkeys abound, there are snipe in plenty and quail can be bagged by a novice. You see them on the road while driving, and the crack of the rifle is heard almost constantly. Quail on toast is a regular dish at the hotels at least once a day. THOMASVILLK. GEORGIA. 207 The Negro and his Works.— Without desiring to at- tack political problems, to raise dead issues or to discuss questions that have long since been answered, one can- not resist the temptation to obtain information on the result of the emancipation proclamation, for although it is over a quarter of a century old the subject yet has great interest for this country, and for other countries also, for that matter. Here is a statement of facts and figures in condensed, nutshell form upon which chapters and books might be written— the colored population of Georgia pay taxes on real estate amounting to twelve millions of dollars, the realty being estimated at about one half its actual value, and their personal property is estimated at about six millions of dollars. There are in- stances of marked faithfulness and attachment of slaves to their former owners, some of the blacks still serving their white masters. Among the servants of Mrs. M. A. Bower, proprietor of the Piney Woods Hotel, are two who formerly served this same "master," one of them being the skilful pastry-cook of the hotel. The Hotels. — There is a standing joke about certain Southern cities where there are only two hotels, that, whichever one you select, you will wish that you had chosen the other. Although the hotels south of the line have greatly improved of late years, the old joke will still apply in certain towns and cities. Not so, however, at Thomasville. There are only two hotels here knovv^n to fame, and you will make no mistake if you select either. It is a matter of surprise to find two such hotels in such a comparatively small town. The Mitchell House and the Piney Woods Hotel (I take them alpha- betically) are both large, new, handsomely furnished and perfectly appointed houses, containing all the mod- ern improvements, and erected with strict regard for the laws of sanitation. The Mitchell House is an im- posing solid brick structure, four stories high, two hun- dred feet square, with a cultivated park of two acres 308 THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. sweeping before its front piazza. This little park is re- served for the hotel guests and their friends. The Piney Woods Hotel is within gun-shot distance of the Mitchell House, on the same street, with a front measuring three hundred and fifty feet, the other side overlooking Paradise Park, of which I have already spoken. The Piney Woods stands, as it were, and as its name might indicate, on the very edge of the pine forests, and yet it is only a five minutes' walk from the post-office and a ten minutes' drive from the depot. The pamphlet issued by the proprietor tells you that "the Pine}^ Woods is modelled similar to the Grand Union Hotel, at Saratoga Springs, "but this is a mistake of the compiler of the work, and is no compliment at all to the house under consideration — which is far more pleasing to the eye, exteriorly, than the Grand Union at Saratoga. The Piney Woods is built after plans of J. A. Woods, a New York architect, who planned the new Grand Hotel /;/ the Catskill Mountains, and with its wide and lofty verandas, its projecting towers, its pretty corners here and there, is a facsimile on a somewhat smaller scale of that favorite and beautiful house. Any one who has seen the hotel on the line of the Ulster and Delaware Railway, can picture to himself the Piney Woods Hotel at Thomasville. The late Captain Gillette, who kept the Mountain Hotel, kept this one also for years. William E. Davies is now the manager of the Piney Woods. Each hotel, the Mitchell House and the Piney Woods, will accommodate nearly three hundred guests. The Best Route. — The Atlantic Coast Line, called "the short route to Florida," is by all odds the best way to reach Thomasville from the Eastern States and from New York. The vestibule train, "the Florida special ' of the Pennsylvania Railroad, which traverses this route, is the quickest and most luxurious train, with its dining-room car, library car, etc., but this only THOMASVILLE, GEORGIA. 209 leaves New York on three days of each week, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and you must apply for seats some time ahead. The ordinary trains, with Pullman sleepers, are good enough for the majority of travellers, and they afford people opportunity to stop over and see the cities en route — Washington, Richmond, Wilming- ton, N. C. , Charleston and Savannah. Or, if you prefer, you may come direct from New York, in about thirty- two hours, to Waycross, Ga. , where there is connection for Thomasville, distant four hours. But if you ''stop over," you must be prepared to travel in ordinary coaches between the Southern cities ; parlor cars are not attached to local trains. It would help Thomasville materially if the Savannah, Western and Florida Road (everybody in this section calls it "the S. F. &W.") were to run a quick train with a parlor car to meet the Florida special. The return would not be great at first, but it would prove profitable to the road ultimately. Strangers and tourists make it a point to go to the stations to see the Pennsylvania vestibule train at differ- ent points of the road, and the colored folk stand and stare at the beautiful appointments with eyes and mouth wide open. "Only God's people," remarked one surprised darkey, '* can ride in them carriages." A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. If you tell people in New York that you are ''going to Brunswick for the winter," they will probably look at you with surprise ; some will say, " Do you mean New Brunswick?" having in mind New Brunswick, N. J. ; while others will say, ' ' Brunswick ; where is Bruns- wick, in what State ? I never heard of it. " Well, new as Brunswick may appear to the majority, it is an old place, having been settled and laid out in the year 1763. Where is Brunswick? — Brunswick is in the South- eastern part of Georgia, not far from the Florida border, sixty miles below Savannah, seventy miles north of Jack- sonville. The city covers an area of two miles square, and is handsomely laid out, the whole adorned by some of the most beautiful groves of live oaks and cedars to be found in the South. It is situated on a small peninsula jutting out into the sea, surrounded on three sides by salt water, but protected from the severity of the ocean winds by outlying islands. Brunswick is only eight miles from the sea and there are no fresh water streams or swamps within many miles to breed malaria, the air being constantly renewed and vivified by the health- bearing breezes of the ocean, that render it, as official statistics show, one of the healthiest cities in the Union. Among its natural advantages are its climate, uni- form and mild in winter, its geographical position being but little north of St. Augustine, ice being seldom seen, and snow rarely, if ever ; its forests of pine, palm and moss-covered oak, its healthy soil, pure water, semi- tropical foliage and plants, the magnificent drives, and last, but by no means least, its superior water facilities, ^10 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 211 having one of the finest harbors in the South Atlantic. As to the trees : I have stood under the far-famed old oaks of England, I have seen the moss-covered trees of Bonaventure, of which all Savannah proudly boasts, and admired the great oak at Thomasville, whose branches measure ninety feet across ; but there is an oak here which belittles them all for age, strength and size. Tjnder the "Lovers' Oak " at Brunswick it is said that one hundred teams can find shelter from the sun's rays. It is called Lovers' Oak because a marriage was once performed under it, several hundred witnesses being present at the open air ceremony. Jekyl and Other Islands. — There are a number of beautiful islands near here which are fertile almost be- yond one's imagination. Everybody has heard of Jekyl Island, and all true sportsmen know it. It is famous as the location of one of the finest club-houses in the country, the island being a paradise for the sportsman and fisherman. It is literally full of game ; deer, wild turkey and other fowl are so plentiful that visitors are sure of good sport. Being a natural game preserve, upon which the general public have not been permitted to hunt, the increase has been rapid and the supply practically inexhaustible. The club-house, seen from the river, is a noble structure. Then there is St. Simon's Island, which lies off the coast at a distance of seven miles from Brunswick, and is noted for the wonderful fertility of its soil. It excels especially in fruits — oranges, peaches, figs, bananas, olives, lemons, limes and pecans, growing in great profusion. The climate is almost perfection. Ice is seldom seen, and snow has been seen here but once within the present century, A Doctor's Certificate. — Brunswick's peninsular lo- cation, almost surrounded by salt water, with immense pine forests on the north, extending hundreds of miles into the interior, conduces to a state of healthfulness excelled by no other place of its population in the whole 212 A NEW SOUTHERX RESORT. South. Dr. H. Buford, Health Officer of the City of Brunswick, makes the following official statement : '* The result of my observation and experience as a practitioner in this city and in the country adjacent thereto, during a residence of seven years, proves that our mortuary statistics show a minimum death rate — Poughkeepsie, N. Y., not excepted. During an active practice of seven years I cannot record a single case of* scarlet fever or diphtheria. Hay fever and asthma are unknown here." A Mistake of Congress. — Brunswick is a century and a quarter old, but it went along lazily and slowly, like many other Southern towns and villages, and the war somewhat retarded its progress. Nor was it helped by a committee from Congress which, some years after the war, took a cruise along the Atlantic coast to examine the facilities of our seaports. Congress has not earned its peculiar reputation without deserving it. This com- mittee may have included members who w^ere learned in the law, or who knew how to hoe potatoes, but of harbor advantages and the requirements of ships they must have been innocently ignorant. They reported that "the harbor of Brunswick was twelve feet deep." This went abroad and ships went elsewhere. How near to the truth came this report may be judged by one instance. On Friday, February 3, 1888, the English steamer, the Port Augusta, cleared this port drawing- twenty feet of water and carrying 6,559 bales of cotton, weighing over three millions of pounds and valued at 8300,000. It was the largest cargo ever cleared from a South Atlantic port, and ships drawing twenty-four feet of water enter and leave here without the slightest danger of touching bottom. So much for the congres- sional report. That the shipping facilities of Bruns- wick are becoming known may be judged also from the following facts and figures : During the whole month of February, 1887, the exports of cotton, naval stores and A NEH^ SOUTH ERX RESORT. 218 luirber amounted to $78,000 while for only th.^ first Jive days of Feb. , 1888, the exports amounted to over $300,000. These figures are given on official authority from the collector of the port. Are more significant statements needed to show the marvellous advance and improve- ment of this place ? Here they are — the exports in the year 1886 amounted to less than a million dollars ; in 1887 they footed up over two and a quarter millions. The imports of 1886 were less than $5,000, the imports of 1887, $48,000. A Cri'V BY THE Sea. — How has all this seeming pros- perity and increase of business on the water affected the land? Well, in 1884 the po]3ulation of Brunswick was 3,000, four years later it was 8,000 ; the increase of taxable property was thirty-three per cent. greaterin"87 than '^6 ; the comptroller of the State says that this county (Glynn) has made for the last twelve months a larger pro rata increase than any other county in the State of Georgia, for eight years ago there was not a brick building in the place ; now there are blocks and blocks of brick stores and fine dwellings ; increase in the value of the land is almost fabulous, and there is a new brick hotel here, "the Oglethorpe," which cost with furniture, $160,000, the equal of which for site and style cannot be found between Washington, D. C. and St. Augustine, Fla. The Ooi.E'iHORPE. — The new hotel is an evidence of and in keeping with the new order of things. The loca- tion of the building is choice — on the highest ground in Brunswick, afi'ording fine views and rare sanitary facili- ties. The house is not merely considered to be, but is fire-proof. So perfect is the protection against fire that the company insuring the property reduced the usual hotel rate one-half in consideration of the charac- ter of the building and the excellence of the lire system adopted. The Oglethorpe stands on the principal street, near the railway depot and steamboat wharf, on 214 A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT, a plot of ground about three hundred feet square, the main building having three stories and being two hun- dred and sixty-seven feet long, with wings running back one hundred and forty feet. It is the largest building in the place, and with its graceful round brick towers at each corner, and its turrets and spires jutting through the roof, here and there, it is the most prominent ob- ject you see as you approach Brunswick from any di- rection, either by land or water. The Oglethorpe, be- ing new, is the latest exponent of all that is best and most approved in modern hotel building, and of course has all the ** modern improvements." The drawing- room is a grand apartment, reminding you of the parlor of the United States at Saratoga ; the dining- room is lighted from three sides, and seats three hun- dred persons ; the main floor, the entrance, office and lower hall are tiled with Georgia marble in beautiful colors, and there is a covered porch for promenading which reaches up to the second story. It is two hun- dred and forty feet long, and from twenty to twenty- five feet wide. The bedrooms of the Oglethorpe are larger, as a rule, than those of most hotels. Even the ''small rooms" connecting with the suites are twenty feet long by eleven wide, and have two windows, each seven feet high by three feet wide. The "tower " rooms, with their open fire-places, carved wooden mantels, tiled hearths, rich Moquette carpets, portieres of velours, and lace cur- tains on brass poles are as handsome as the bedrooms of any other hotel that the writer has seen, and if the walls and ceilings were artistically decorated and fres- coed, the "tower" rooms of the Oglethorpe probably might compare with those palatial bedrooms of the Hotel Metropole in London. A peculiarity of the Oglethorpe is that there are no back rooms ; each one faces the street or overlooks the bay, but a few hundred feet dis- tant. Between the bay and the house the grounds of A NEW SOUTHERN RESORT. 215 the hotel are attractively laid out. As to the table and general management of the Oglethorpe, it is only neces- sary to say that the manager is Warren Leland, Jr. , a member of the celebrated Leland family— a name long associated with some of the leading hotels in the United States. En Route to and from Florida. — Brunswick is reached by rail from the North by the Atlantic Coast Line and the vSavannah, Florida and Western Railroad by way of Savannah and Waycross, Ga. , and from Jack- sonville, Florida, by railway to Fernandina in one hour, and thence by steamboat in four hours. The water route is very pleasant. The boats, if not splendid specimens of naval architecture, are at least staunch and comfort- able. You take an inside route, hug the shore, pass many beautiful islands and get glimpses of most pictur- esque scenes. Tourists contemplating a visit to Florida for health or pleasure do well to break the journey at Waycross or Jessup, visit Brunswick and see the charming country thereabouts. The run is made from Waycross to Bruns- wick in three hours and ten minutes. The route Southward is from New York to Quantico, Va. , over the Pennsylvania tracks ; from Richmond to Charleston via Atlantic Coast Line ; from Wa3xross to Brunswick by the Plant system. Leave New York (Desbrosses or Cortlandt streets) at 9 P.M. or midnight — through car to Waycross. A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. Key West, in Spanish Cayo Hueso (Bone Island), de- rived its name, so says history, from the fact that the island was strewn with hmnan bones. The conquerors didn't take time to btiry the bones of the conquered. The change, corruption Spaniards call it, from Cayo Hueso to Key West was easy. The United States bought the island from Spain in 1816. The formation is coral and it contains about two thou- sand acres. The Hon. C. B. Pendleton, editor and pro- prietor of the Equator-Democrat, and a man of culture who has served in the State Senate, showed me an island, or key, as they call it in these parts, distant from Key West five miles, and which he believed to be the most southerly point in the United States. Another authority informed me that Cape Sable, distant from Key West about sixty miles, is the most southerly point. To quote Editor Pendleton, Key West is distant from the tropical line only thirteen miles. Doctors will differ: another authority gives it as sixty miles. I am inclined to think that on the tropical question my editorial brother is correct in his estimate, because Key Wejst is only distant from Cuba eighty or ninety miles. The climate is about the same as that of Havana. In the Cuban capital the mercury never goes below sixty degrees ; in Key West the lowest point recorded is fifty- one. Key West is the ninth port of entry in the United States, collecting more import duty than all the other 216 A CUBAN CfTV AV THE UN/TED STA TES. 217 ports* in the States of Florida and Georgia and one-half of Alabama combined. In i860 the population was about two thousand, one- quarter of whom were colored ; but in 1869, after the rebellion in Ciiba, the population of the island began to increase and now it numbers twenty-two thousand, and they claim that it is the largest city in Florida. The inhabitants are mixed, very much mixed — Cubans, negroes, Americans, Chinese, etc. The negroes come from Nassau, Cuba and other places. Key West was bought of Spain, as before remarked ; the island is nearer Cuba than any other land, it is not in any sense American except that it flies the American flag, and it seems to be now, to all intents and purposes, a foreign place — a Spanish colony, as it once was. Spanish is the prevailing language, and Cubans predominate. All the public notices and hand- bills are printed in two languages, several newspapers are printed in Spanish, and only one, the Equator- Democrat, in English. It is difficult to make a purchase or to transact any business unless you speak Spanish, and there are few drivers or conductors of street cars who can understand you if addressed in English. The car drivers swear at their patient, sadly abused mules in hard Spanish. All the American residents and busi- ness men speak the prevailing tongue, or are learning it as fast as they can, for without it they cannot so readily conduct business. .Speaking of the street cars, they are all open, of course, winter and summer. In fact, there is never any- thing resembling northern winter weather in Key West ; light summer clothes and Panama hats are worn the year round. But you are not obliged to patronize street cars. Rid- ing in private conveyances is at a cheaper rate of fare than even in London, or in a country town on the Conti- nent. In London the smallest cab fare is one shilling 218 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. (twenty-five cents) ; in Key West yon can ride a* short distance for a dime, and a longer distance for fifteen cents. The conveyance is a very light and very dirty wagonette on fonr wheels. The driver is as dirty as his vehicle, and his horse resembles those poor skeletons which I have seen blindfolded and pushed into the arena at a- Cuban bull fight. Such tropical fruits as the sugar apple, the guava, mango, the soft and sweet sapadillo, thrive in Key West. The climate and salt atmosphere combine to make it the home of the palm. There are many tall, slender and beautiful cocoanut trees, some with their graceful leaves waving as high as eighty feet in the air, making an interesting and pretty picture against a cloudless sky. But the cultivation of the cocoanut in Key West might be made very profitable as well as picturesque. At present there are comparatively few of such trees ; their cultivation ought to be encouraged. The tree has no tap root, and will thrive on a thin soil. It comes into bearing eight or ten years from the nut ; and after that the fruit grows and increases every month in the year. Like the orange tree, the older it gets the more it bears. A bearing cocoanut grove costs less to care for than an orange grove, and the revenue therefrom is greater. It requires no cultivation, and is as hardy in its section as the cabbage palmetto, that grows everywhere in Florida. Besides, cocoanuts can be shipped in any month of the year ; they require no packing, no care in handling, and they will bear transportation for thousands of miles. There is a good market for green cocoanuts in these parts as well as for matured ones. When the nut is fully grown, but green, it contains about two glasses of clear juice, milk we call it in the North. It is consid- ered a healthful beverage in the tropics and sells per glass in the streets of Havana for the equivalent of five cents. A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. 311) Nature has favored Key West with a perfect climate. It is surrounded by the Gulf of Mexico, as blue and as beautiful as the famous Danube. Nature in fact has done everything she could to make the place desirable as a residence for man, but man has done little or noth- ing for himself, thus far, and if the truth must be told, notwithstanding its favorable natural conditions and its lovely surroundings. Key West is not yet a desirable place to live in. It has no sanitary laws, for nothing whatever has been done with a view to sanitation, and yet with the salt ocean all around the little island, how easy it would be to make it healthy and clean, for it is neither one nor the other. There is no such thing as system, no sewerage whatever in the town excepting one iron pipe which leads from one hotel, the Russell House, to the sea, and even that one pipe is allowed to clog occasionally. A liberally illustrated and large edition of the Eqiia- tor-Dernocrat was issued in 1889, which presents a very rose-colored view of Key West. In that paper I find that ' * the pleasant streets running at right angles are as smooth and hard as adamant." I am not certain that I am very well acquainted with adamant, but I know that the streets of Key West are unpaved and that they are the roughest and the dirtiest streets I ever saw. As I have lived in Baltimore, in New York and in New Orleans, my testimony ought to be accepted on such a theme. I speak of Key West in fine weather; what it must be in wet weather I don't like to imagine. If nothing but very deep ruts, holes and great gullies in the roadway resemble adamant then is Key West ada- mantine beyond doubt. There is not a boot-black in the town ; none is needed. Nobody thinks of blacking his shoes ; it would be ab- surd. I spoke on this point with a young New Yorker who hails from the fashionable precincts of Madison ave- nue. He is a business man who is liberal in the matter 220 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. of money, usually dressy, and extreme^ neat in his person. He has been in Key West six months, and in all that time not a brush has passed over his shoes. I regret to differ with my learned and courteous friend, the editor of the Democrat, on the subject of hotels. Let him speak for himself. He says that *' The Russell House, the leading hotel in the city, is second to none in the State in accommodations." Now I had an idea that St. Augustine and Jacksonville and Tampa were in Florida, and that there were such hotels ' ' in the State "as the Ponce de Leon and The Cordova at St. Augustine, and the new Tampa Bay Hotel at Tampa Bay, not to mention a number of other first-class houses '* in the State." Directl}^ opposite the Russell is the Duval House. You may never have heard of it ; it is not one-third the size of the Russell House. I know nothing of the apart- ments of the Duval, for I investigated no further than the dining-room, but that was enough to establish its good reputation. It will be a long time before I forget how beautifully garnished a dish they made at the Duval of a red snapper, and the delicious flavor of their ome- lette soufflee remains with me still. The Duval is pre- sided over by a Cuban lady, Mrs. Bolio, who kept for years one of the leading hotels in Havana. She is evi- dently a woman who knows what good living is. Cigar-making is a very large and important industry in Key West. The place was selected for cigar-making because the climate is suited to the "curing" of to- bacco in the leaf, and because it is near Havana. There is something also in the name. Everybody does not know that this (Spanish) island is United States territory, and some smokers if they see a " Key West " label on a box of cigars believe, without stopping to think, that they are smoking a foreign-made cigar. Xow a Key West cigar if made from Havana tobacco of fine quahty has just as good a flavor ^s if it were A CrBAN CITY IN THE U Nil ED ST A TES. ^LH made in Cuba, but the Key West cigar can be sold at a lower price because the import duty on cigars is much higher than the duty on the raw material. Having the same climate as Havana, the best climate in the world for tobacco curing, and the cigars being made by Cubans, who are the best cigar-makers in the world. Key West turns out just as good cigars as can be produced anywhere — provided alwa3^s that tobacco of the first quality is used. And the cigar need not consist entirely of Havana tobacco. A cigar of choice flavor is made of a mixture of tobaccos — Havana " filler " and "binder," with, say. a " Connecticut seed " or Suma- tra wrapper. The manufacture of cigars has without doubt aided largely in building up the business of Key West. One authority says that there are two hundred factories, employing five thousand operatives, and transacting a business amounting to seven millions of dollars annu- ally. But this report may be exaggerated. However, here are some more figures, and if the reader is mathe- matically inclined he can draw his own conclusions : Key West during 1890 turned out one hundred and forty millions of cigars. There are very few Spanish or American cigarmakers in Key West; the majority are Cubans, with a very small sprinkling of negroes. There are so many fac- tories and so many operatives that, although it is a cigar-producing place, very few cigars indeed are sold at retail. Everybody smokes, every one invites you to smoke : cigars are almost as free as the air. It would be a paradise for a young dude who has a slender purse and who is addicted to the weed. U'pon the courteous invitation of \\ Pohalski & Co., who have a branch in Havana, with headquarters in FrankHn St., New York, I paid a visit to their factory, which is one of the largest in Key West, and I was much interested in what I saw. Pohalski Sz Co. erected their 222 A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED STA TES. own factory, upon their own ground, and it is one of the most imposing edifices in Key West. They also built upon their own land a number of small houses which they rent to their workmen at a moderate figure ; for its size it is quite a respectable colony. Although very large, employing several hundred hands, the factory is orderly, exceedingly clean and neat, showing good government. Perfect system reigns throughout the entire establishment. The first floor is used for the business offices, for cases of tobacco and for the '' strippers •/' the whole of the second floor is oc- cupied by cigar makers, and the third floor is used by the ** packers," also for curing leaf tobacco and for stor- ing cigars in boxes. A ** stripper" is one who, with the dexter finger and thumb of the right hand pulls the stem from the leaf while the leaf is damp, the leaf being held in the left hand. It is done by a dexterous and quick movement, not a vestige of the leaf remaining on the stem. The most costly leaves, for wrappers, are only entrusted to experienced operators. The strippers in this factory are numbered by scores. They are all females, all Cubans, and range in age from ten years old to women of fifty. It is not a pleasing sight to one who associates woman with habits of refinement, to see the older women, while at their work of stripping, smoke long, thick cigars. They hold the cigar between their teeth and seldom remove it, not even to talk. They are rough-looking cigars, rolled into shape by the women themselves from the leaves they are stripping. A more pleasing picture is presented on the cigar- making floor, above. You will be surprised upon enter- ing to see a man standing erect in the centre of the room, book in hand, reading aloud. You cannot help but notice, although Spanish may be Greek to you, that the reader's voice is powerful and well trained, reach- A CUBAN CITY IN THE UNITED ST A TES. 228 ing to the extreme corners and to the most distant ears on the vast floor. He is a professional reader. The several hundred men club together, each paying a nom- inal sum for the reader's services. In this way, while engaged in their work, they hear the news of the day and are regaled with the latest Spanish novel. " Packing " cigars is a technical term. It is not sim- ply to tie them up with pretty silk ribbons and place them neatly in a box. A packer is one who assorts the colors also. It is a very nice and delicate piece of work. It demands a good eye for color and long experience, and then it can only be done in a certain light, of course not by artificial light, nor unless the day is bright. An overcast, murky and heavy sky is not good for packing — assorting, it might be called. In a few hun- dred loose cigars placed on a table ready for ' • pack- ing," the casual observer will probably see only three or four colors. They are first assorted roughly to bring together those of decided colors — light brown, medium, dark brown, etc. Then a pile of dark or light shades is gone over again and again until the different piles of cigars are alike, as if they were all made from one leaf and turned out by machinery. The packer also dis- cards a cigar that is not perfectly made, or one not uni- form with the rest. A special few, exact as to form and hue, are selected for the top row, to catch and please the eye of the smoker when the lid of the box is raised. A good packer is paid better than any other operative in the business. Men and women are employed in it, some of them earning as high as twenty-five or thirty- five dollars per week. The sponge trade is also a very large and important industry here. The sponges are found in this part of the Gulf of Mexico, and the trade gives employment to a great many people. I visited the largest spong(.^ house, that of Arapian & Co., and saw there in different stages, sponges valued at a quarter of a million dollars. 224: A CUBA X CITY IN THE UNITED STATES. Such a stock of sponges, as you can easily imagine, oc- cupies much space. My only surprise was to find such valuable merchandise housed in a light frame building. A fire would spread easily, and the whole would be rapidly consumed. I have spoken of the dirty, unpaved streets of Key West ; it would be unfair not to mention a lovely drive which you can take for a few miles on the edgQ of the Gulf. You go around the old forts, you see lighthouses and other interesting objects en route, the bracing air from the Gulf fans your cheeks, the ocean is spread out before you, and if you return in the early evening, and near dinner time, you will most likely be favored with a grand sunset, and you will surely have a keen appetite. Key West is reached from New York b}^ steamers of the Mallory line, and from New Orleans by New Or- leans and Havana steamers, but decidedly the best and most luxurious way of going to the island is by the Plant line of steamers which leave Tampa, Florida and Havana, Cuba, three times a week. The " Mascotte " and "Olivette" were built for this route. They are both staunch, swift, beautifully appointed ships, whose commanders were in the Atlantic service for years, the "Olivette" being the fastest boat of her size in the world — a model vessel. If you are going to Key West for pleasure — it is possi- ble for people to go there with that end in view — you will go from New York to Jacksonville via the Pennsyl- vania and Atlantic coast lines and there take the Jack- sonville, Tampa and Ke}^ West Railroad, although part of this "railway" journey consists of a sail on the Gulf of Mexico, from Tampa. The island, with all its objectionable features, has churches of different denominations, it has convents, good schools, and has one large substantial and beauti- ful brick and stone building for a custom house, for which the government appropriated one hundred thous- and dollars. Key West has a police force numbering fourteen offi- cers, including men of all colors and several nationalities. ST. AUGUSTINE- AN ANCIENT CITY MODERNIZED. What a contrast, to leave the dust and dirt of Key West its unpaved roadways, full of deep ruts, large holes and great gullies : Key West, with its mixed population of twenty thousand negroes, Cubans, Chinamen and white folks : Key West, minus sidewalks, and minus many evidences of a high state of civilization : what a con- trast is it to arrive in this beautiful city of the South, with its smooth-paved streets, its cleanly and aristo- cratic air, and its three wondrously beautiful vSpanish hotels, all within speaking distance of each other. It is like leaping, if I ma}" use such an expression, from hades to heaven. The changes here within the past lour years are great. Most important to the tourist is the erection of a railway bridge which crosses the St. John's River. Four years ago you were obliged to stop at Jacksonville if you ap- proached from the north ; if from the south, you steamed across on a ferry-boat from Palatka. Now you take your seat in a drawing-room car at Jersey City, in the North, or at Tampa, if you approach from the South, and you need not leave the car until the conduc- tor calls out ** St. Augustine " -thirty-one hours by ves- tibuled train from New York, tw^elve hours by the West India Fast Mail from the Gulf, at Tampa. As to other changes, much land has been reclaimed from the river, miles of roadway have been asphalted and paved with wooden blocks ; the old fort is being re- stored, for which work the government has appropriated 226 ST, A UGUSTINE, $15,000; many new houses have been built, all of co- quina and in the Moorish style ; to the oldest house in the town has been added a new stone tower ; there has been erected a new City Hall, which includes a fine market ; and to crown it all, as it were, there is a new church, a Memorial Presbyterian Church, built in mem- ory of the beautiful daughter Mr. Flagler lost two years ago. The structure is so attractive, so pleasing to the eye, that in driving away from it you find yourself con- stantly turning around to keep its graceful architectural lines in view as long as possible. It is probably not possible to enhance the splendor of the Ponce de Leon Hotel, the drawing-room of which, with its magnificent proportions, its onyx fire-place, its ceiling decorations, its rich carpets and furniture, and its rare paintings by Bridgman, Koppay, and other artists, is not rivalled by any other hotel in the world. To call it palatial is no compliment to " the Ponce " par- lor, for I have seen no apartments in royal palaces that are more pleasing, and I have been favored with a view of many palaces in many countries. The smooth and pleasant walk around the Alcazar Hotel measures just half a mile. The colored boys know : they use it semi-occasionally for a foot or bicycle race : " twice around the Alcazar is one mile " they will tell you. One of the novel features of the Alcazar is the swim- ming pool, into which the sulphur water rushes up from the artesian well with great force. There is room in the pool (40 by 120 feet) for scores of swimmers, and there is always a number of visitors looking from the galleries above on the lively scene below. With the mercury ranging between 70 and 80 the sulphur water is indeed refreshing ; and they say it is quite invigorating. Tem- perature of the water, 75 degrees. Mr. Flagler has bought all the land around and about his three hotels, so that nobody can erect anything any- ST. AUGUSTINE. • 227 where near him. He is not the man to do anything by halves. The sitting-room in which this is penned is one of a suite I occupy in the castellated tower on a corner of the Hotel Cordova. The walls of the building are of gray coquina. Outside each window is a small and separate "kneeling balcony," protected by ornamental iron rail- ings, painted a reddish brown— such balconies as you see in some buildings in Madrid. The windows have white lace curtains and the shades are alternately blue and crimson — contrasting pleasantly with the neutral tint of the outer walls. To the east, within stone's throw, is Cordova Park ; to the west, the same distance, is the one-acre park of the Alcazar, with its tropical foliage, pretty walks and handsome fountain ; while diagonally opposite, same distance again (about one hundred feet), loom up the terra-cotta turrets, towers, arches and gabled roofs of the Ponce de Leon Hotel, with its grand park of four and a half acres. This may convey some idea of the situation ; to describe the scene requires the pen if not the pencil of an artist. The manager of these three grand hotels in St. August- ine is O. D. Seavey, who is also entrusted in summer time with the management of the magnificent Hotel Champlain, on Lake Champlain. In the winter season Mr. Seavey's address is St. Augustine, Fla. ; in the sum- mer he should be addressed Hotel Champlain, Clinton County, N. Y. ABOUT TAMPA. THE INN, PORT TAMPA, FLx\, Tampa is of interest historically, being the place where Ferdinand De Soto landed May 25, 1539. From here he started on his search for the mines of wealth supposed to exist in the new world, which resulted in the discovery of the Mississippi river. It is here also that Narvaez, having obtained a grant of Florida from Charles V. of Spain, landed with a large force April 16, 1528. Tampa is on the Gulf coast of Florida, two hundred and forty miles from Jacksonville. There are two trains daily with Pullman cars from Jacksonville and St. Augustine to Tampa, passing through Palatka, Sanford and Winter Park, both having direct connection with all Eastern and Western cities and one being a through train from New York. Its rapid growth during the past seven years from about eight hundred inhabitants to as many thousands, has been brought about by the Plant system, which completed the South Florida railroad to Tampa for the purpose of developing Tampa commercially. Dr. Long, a United States army surgeon, wrote of Fort Brooks, at Tampa, "This post has always been considered a delightful station." Dr. Long's reports and other reports to the surgeon-general at Washington show it to be one of the most healthful stations in the country. Peninsulas have always been thought dCvSirable be- cause of their climate, which gives them advantages 228 ■ ABOUT TAMPA. 229 over other localities, and among peninsulas Florida is unrivalled because of its latitude and particularly as it is affected by the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico. The investment of large capital in constructing a new hotel in Florida with the expectation of drawing to it the requisite patronage, demanded a knowledge of the requirements of winter tourists who visit the place for health or pleasure. Those requirements have been carefully studied by Mr. H. B. Plant, president of the Plant Investment Company, acting under the advice of eminent scientists, in the selection of Tampa. The new hotel is situated on the west side of the Hillsborough river where it empties into Tampa bay, opposite to and facing the city, which is within easy walking distance. From the river to the front of the hotel there are exten- sive lawns and flower beds, with orange, palm and other tropical trees, the hotel grounds and property including twenty-two acres. At the rear of the house there is a long stretch of pine lands. As you view the house at a distance, from the deck of a steamer, or from a car window, with its long stretch of brick front, its iron and stone trimmings, its many towers with great and gorgeous silver-bronzed, balloon- shaped domes, each surmounted by a shining gold crescent, it impresses you at once as being a great oriental palace. And this idea is aided by the palms and other tropical trees and shrubs by which it is surrounded. The oriental idea also strikes you as you enter. There is a grand " office," the ceilings are supported by stout marble columns, and the music-room, the drawing- room, and all the minor rooms on the main floor are furnished in the very best taste, the matter of expense never seeming to be a question with those who selected the furniture and decorations in different parts of the world. It is safe to say that very few winter 230 ABOUT TAMPA. or summer resort hotels in this country are as richly furnished. The hotel has been most thoroughly constructed and is practically fireproof, the outer and inner walls being of brick, with steel beams and concrete floors. There has been the most approved scientific work in drainage and plumbing, and there is an abundant supply of good water. On each floor the wide hall extends the entire length of the main building — 512 feet. There are no in- side rooms. Every room has the sun during some por- tion of the day, and a large number of suites have pri- vate baths. The house is heated by steam, in addition to which there are open fire-places in the rooms. The latest improvements have been introduced in lighting. Mr. Plant did a great deal for Tampa when he ran his railroad down there. His lines of steamers from Tampa to Havana and Mobile have greatly helped the pros- perity of the place, and now he has crowned his good work by putting up a magnificent hotel utterly regard- less of the cost. If there was not already a Plant City in Florida, I should suggest to change the name of Tampa to Plant City. The house will accommodate four hundred guests ; the rates are five dollars per day. It is only open during the winter, from Christmas until the first of April. But do not go to Tampa without your summer clothes. All the above relates to the big new hotel at Tampa Bay, but all of it is written at the Inn, in Port Tampa, distant from Tampa Bay proper nine miles. The Inn is "little," it accommodates only seventy-five guests, but it is a gem of a hotel. It is built on, or rather over, the water on piles, and is like an island, being actually surrounded by water. There is always a pleasant breeze on one side of the house, and a breeze is very grateful in this latitude. As I write, the mercury in a thermometer hanging outside my bedroom window marks 75 degrees ; this is at 5 P.M., Saturday, January 31. We sleep with ABOUT TAMPA. 231 open windows, and nothing more than your pajama or a sheet is necessary for a covering. Two sides of the dining-room are composed entirely of sliding-windows through which you can see wild ducks and fish in great quantities. I have seen wild ducks hauled in by the waiters through the open win- dows of this dining-room. You can throw a line into the water as you sit at dinner and if it be properly baited you will probably find a mullet at the end of the cord before you reach your cafe noir. It goes without saying that there are good sailing and fishing at Port Tampa : Spanish mackerel and the pom- pano abound, the latter conceded by epicures to be one of the most exquisitely flavored fish in the world. Here also is the famous tarpon — Silver King he has been christened. In fact Port Tampa is a very paradise for sportsmen. It. is easy to supply the table with oysters, fish and game in profusion. The table, by the way, is liberally provided, and the service by Swiss and French waiters is good. The dining-room of the Tampa Inn reminds you of the dining-room of the Hygeia Hotel at Old Point Com- fort, not for its size, but for its water surroundings, and the scene outside brings up recollections of the Surf Hotel at Fire Island. Picnic Island, across the Gulf one mile, might be a bit of Long Island. But there the similarity ends because the Inn, unlike the vSurf Hotel, is a new house and is luxuriously furnished. Steamers leave here weekly (every Tuesday) for Mobile, and tri-weekly (Monday, Thursday and vSatur- day), for Key West and Havana. The railway depot conveying you to Tampa Bay (fre- quent daily trains), is at the door of the hotel, and from this same depot you can get a through car to Jackson- ville or to New York. The rates at the Inn are four and five dollars a day. It is proposed to keep it open all the year. MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. The name Monterey means King's Mountain and was bestowed on the place in 1602 by Don Sebastian Viz- caino in honor of Jaspar de Zuniga, Conte de Monterey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. It was he who sug- gested and projected the expedition undertaken by Vizcaino. When the members of this expedition returned to Spain the place returned to its primitive condition and nothing was heard of it till a band of Franciscan mis- sionaries arrived on this coast in 1768, one hundred and sixty-eight years after the first discovery. This expe- dition came under the direction and guidance of the president of the band, Father Junipero Serra. At the risk of being charged with sacrilege, I will in- terpolate right amid this ancient history a bit of fresh and interesting news imparted to me by a driver. He showed me from the road a high plateau overlook- ing the sea, where plainly to the naked eye were to be seen preparations for receiving a statue, which is to be in place and to be dedicated before long. It will be in honor of Father Junipero before mentioned; it will cost ten thousand dollars, and the wife of Senator Leland Stanford will foot the bill. The site for the statue is a magnificent one, and if the work of art be worthy of its position, the city of Monterey will have something it may be proud of. There's a " History of Monterey County" by E. S. Harrison. I didn't know before I came here and looked into it that Monterey was the first place settled in the State of California; that the first custom house in the 282 o S Q H O MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. 238 State (now an old rookery) was established here ; that Monterey was once not only a bustling city, but the capital of the State. It is not a wholly deserted village now, but its commercial glory, like that of Newport, R. I., which was once a greater port of entry than New York, has departed, never to return. But Monterey will always be dear to the hearts of Californians, from its historic associations and connections. ** The first European lady to come to California," says Harrison, ''was the wife of Governor Pages, who ar- rived in Monterey in 1783. Their child, born about 1784, was probably the first child born in California of Europ- ean parents." Monterey is one hundred and twenty-six miles from San Francisco, and is easily reached in about four hours by the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Company. On the way, in San Mateo county {en passant, what musical names all these counties and mountains have), within ten to forty miles from the starting point, Third and Townsend streets, you pass the rural homes ot San Prancisco's millionaires. Some are set in great forests of oak surrounded by acres of flowers in peren- nial bloom. Next, the beautiful city of San Jose comes in view, and a flourishing city it appears to be from the car windows. As the train rolls along you keep in sight for many miles the dome of the Lick Observator}-, which glistens in the sunlight on the summit of Mount Hamilton. And then you haven't eyes enough to take in and en- joy the beautiful views of ocean, river, valley and mountain as the tram dashes along— the Coast Range mountains on your left, on the right the Santa Cruz mountains, with the sim setting behind them— a glori- ous moving panorama. After passing what is called the most fertile valley in the State Monterey is reached, if that be your destina- tion, but there is a more important station one mile this 234 MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA. side of Monterey. When the conductor calls out " Hotel del Monte " very few passengers in the cars remain seated, and the train speeds on to the sleepy old town of Monterey, almost empty. The first action which the Pacific Improvement Com- pany took when they concluded to make of this place a summer and winter resort was to purchase some land for the purpose, so they purchased seven thousand acres. Part of this domain was a forest, and of this they selected for their hotel "garden" a simple matter of o?ie hundred and twenty -six acres. Forty acres of this they cultivated in flower-beds, lawns, vegetables and fruit ; the rest they allowed to remain as nature left it, after hiring the services of a landscape gardener to lay out within their gates a few miles for drives and paths. Then it occurred to them that it would be well to have a grand outside drive as an additional attraction, so they made one, cutting away mountain, forest and bluff ; going through the woods, four or five miles ; skirting the ocean for the same distance ; altogether a nice little post-prandial drive of seventeen miles. But this is not much — for California. The drive being private prop- erty it is used only for the guests of the Hotel del Monte, the owners of which keep it in the best order, and in summer time have it watered. It is macadam- ized and in as good condition as the drives in Central Park, New York. The road winds toward the bay through a forest of oaks and pines. For two or three miles it will be cool, dark, shaded and sweet smelling, and presently you get a view of the ocean. If the wind is high, as it was on the twenty-second of March, you will see foaming white- caps in the distance, and the spray dashing wildly on the bare brown rocks in the foreground, making a pic- ture which, on the day we saw it, was awfully grand. I don't mean this in the sense that girls do when they MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, 235 say a thing is "awfully nice ;" I mean that the boister- ous waves were almost frightful with their impetuous rush and their terrible roar. To quote dear old Fitz-Greene Halleck, whose statue in Central Park few recognize : The winds of March were humming Their parting song, their parting song. It was a habit of my predecessor on the Home Journal, General George P. Morris, to publish annually this sweet song of Halleck's in the Home Journal during the first week of March. It was a singular fancy of Morris's and it pleased his brother poet. But I am getting away from my story — and the surf. The seals didn't seem to mind the roaring surf or howl- ing wind. Their unearthly bark formed part of the grand chorus. They tossed their heads and rolled their ungainly bodies about with all the grace at their com- mand, which is not saying much for their sylph-like movements. No; water is their element. If you expect to see the seals of the same color as the sealskin sacques worn by women, you may not see the seals at all, for they match in color with the brownish gray rocks on which they romp. They have not gone through the process of " London dyeing." In fact they are not fur seals, and, in reality not seals at all in the popular sense, but sea lions. I accepted the driver's statement that there were five hundred seals on the rocks. The cultivated grounds of the Hotel del Monte aston- ish you with their size and beauty and with the neatness and order in which they are kept. Probably not else- where is there such variety in floriculture. Everything from everywhere seems to thrive here. Nor do I know of any section of country where there are such noble oaks and pines, but probably the company claim too much when they say that "the garden is the finest, the 336 MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA. most gorgeous, the richest and most varied in all the world. " It seems to me that the Tuileries Gardens are richer and that the gardens in Hyde Park are more pleasing to the eye and the sense of smell. I speak of the floral display only, but I saw the foreign gardens at their best season and the Del Monte gardens in March. Flowering plants, habitats of regions below the equator, bloom freely at Del Monte throughout the winter in the open, retaining their original habit without the aid of glass. The trees are wonderful. I carry with me not only a thermometer but a tiny tape measure, the latter in my pocket. I asked the driver to stop as we were driving through the grounds, while . I measured a pine and I found that it was four and a half yards in circumference near the ground. The driver told me how tall it was, but I will not quote him as I'm not giving you * ' Califor- nia stories." This pine was not pointed out nor did I select it for its size. There were others within a few feet of where this giant stood just as large, and for all I know there are hundreds on the ground much larger. Of course the palm abounds, all trees of tropical growth are here; there are calla lilies for borders, vio- lets, heliotrope, nasturtium, honeysuckle in wild pro- fusion, and this in March, mind you. Is there ivy? " Well, rather," as an Englishman might answer such a question. A leaf now lies on my table which measures five inches across. The grounds are in charge of a skilled landscape gardner with a force of thirty-five men —English, American and Chinese. Foreigners from other lands may rail against the Chinese as much as they please, and our legislators may be right in excluding them lest they overrun the coun- try, but it must be said in their favor that they are a peaceful, industrious set. and there are no better ser- vants for indoor or outdoor work. Under certain con- ditions, however, they are as obstinate as mules. When MONTEREY, CALIEORNIA. 2;i7 you engage them you must be exceedingly careful in giving them instructions, for they will always continue to do what they are at first told to do; you cannot change their ways. Mr. George Schonewald, manager of Hotel del Monte, while we were chatting in his office, illustrated it to me in this way: " Observe that Chinaman wiping carefully the casing of that white door. He was told when he first came here that he was to do that sort of work at this time of day, and if the heavens fall he'll do it. If I were to ask him this minute to leave that door and pol- ish this plate glass window he might obey, but it would upset him for the day, if not for all time. If you change your mind and want the work done in a different w^ay you had better change your Chinaman, you can't change their ways. This is the general experience with Chinese labor in California. And this brings me to the fact that nearly all the walls and all the interior woodwork of these great build- ings are painted white. The lack of color becomes a little tiresome to the eye, but one thing comforts you, it is kept white — not a mark, not a spot to mar its per- fection. Chinamen are always washing either doors, window^s, surbase, or whatever part of the floor is not carpeted; all is pure white except the floor of the beauti- ful dining-room, w^hich is of dark English oak kept highly polished. The series of buildings is in the modern Gothic style, the main building three hundred and fifty feet front, with a central tower eighty feet high and wings or an- nexes two hundred and eighty feet long, showing an entire floor area of sixteen acres. An acre or two, more or less, is nothing — in California. The bed-room in which this is written is an ordinary room here, eighteen by sixteen feet. Even the marble wash-basin is worth measuring — three feet three in circumference. Run- ning water, gas, fireplaces; and closets built with par- 238, MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, tition walls in every room. There are five hundred and ten rooms, and seven hundred people can be accom- modated comfortably. I am surprised here, as I have been elsewhere in Cali- fornia, at the low rates which obtain at hotels. A placard on the door of this well-furnished room, with beautiful walls and ceiling and a luxurious bed, reads: " Rate for this room, with board, for one person $3.50; for two $6.50. With bath-room $4 and I7 per day." And in the bath-room there appears to be an inexhaustible supply of boiling water. There is no charge made in the ladies' billiard room, which adjoins the parlor; no charge for use of boats on the twenty-acre lake. If the plumbing is right, and so it appears to be, there is no trouble with the question of drainage, the ocean being at the door. The drinking water is brought from Carmel river, eighteen miles distant, in the mountains. A ton of ice per day is made on the premises. Some of the vegetables are raised near the hotel, and there is a dairy farm connected with the property measuring un- told acres. Native wines are sold at Hotel del Monte lower than I've seen them either here or abroad. It's easy to be a "swell" at Del Monte. A half bottle of Zinfandel is opened and served at table for fifteen cents, and a very good wine it is, too, so far as pleasing my palate goes. But I don't profess to be so well versed in wines as the late Sam Ward or the present Ward McAllister. There is a secret, however, in the low charge for California wine at Hotel del Monte — the company have theii own vineyards. What haven't they got? They have noth- ing less than a Steinway concert grand in the parlor and another in the ball-room. There's a feature that almost escaped being put down, and yet it is worthy of special mention. To the first floors in the two annexes you neither ascend nor descend any stairs ; nor do you to the second floor. To MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA. 289 the first floor you descend an inclined hall or arcade ; to the second you ascend an inclined arcade. If you have a room even on the third floor you only walk up one flight of stairs, unless you prefer the elevator. This is not a new idea, however. I remember being shown through an old, unused palace in Berlin which was constructed in the same way. A member of the royal house was weak in the knees from rheumatism and so was rolled on a sedan chair up and down in this way. The porter at this hotel, wheeling his truck '* up- stairs " loaded with trunks, reminded me of the rheu- matic royalty. In all hotels recently constructed there is an electric bell as well as an electric button in every room. If you leave word to be called in the morning, there's no rap- ping outside your door — rapping loud enough to awaken every sleeper near your apartment. There is an elec- tric button in the ofhce which connects with a bell in your room, and to this call you will respond. There is no escape from it ; you must get out of bed to stop the ringing. The first Hotel del Monte, opened in 1880, was de- stroyed by fire : the new house was erected five years ago. The present manager, Mr. George Schonewald, opened the first house and superintended the construc- tion of the second. As his name indicates, he is not to the manor born. He arrived in this country twenty-five years ago without a penny in his pocket, but with a de- termination to make a position for himself. There is no secret in his success. Anybody can gain success who will follow the Schonewald method. It was not ** blind luck" with him, but industry, unceasing indus- try, directed with unusual intelligence. Schonewald fitted himself thoroughly for his position. On his arrival in this country he decided to be a practi- cal confectioner, and not long after he received the high- est salary ever paid in the State to a confectioner. Then 240 MONTEREY. CALIFORNIA, he took to cooking and earned the highest salary ever paid to a cook in the State. Step by step has he moved from the very bottom round of the ladder to the man- agement of one of the largest and finest hotels in the country. Schonewald is a worker. He is supposed to take three meals a day, but sometimes his breakfast is not touched till late in the afternoon. From my window I have seen him driving about rapidly in a buggy before my toilet was completed ; and your humble servant, as a general rule, is out of bed before seven A.M. The in- terests of the company first, his own comfort last, seems to be this manager's motto, Yes, your Germans are workers. Mrs. Schonewald is her husband's helpmeet: she fills the position of housekeeper at Hotel del Monte, and that probably ac- counts for the bed-rooms being so comfortably furnished — a rocker here, an easy, arm-chair there, with a neat white "tidy "on the upholstered back. There's noth- ing like a woman's eye, a woman's thoughtfulness in providing all the tasteful etceteras which make a home comfortable and complete. I will close with a clipping from the tourist book, *' To the Golden Gate," issued by the Pennsylvania Rail- road: — **The Eastern traveller coming to California's coast and failing to see * Del Monte ' has indeed missed not everything, but a goodly part. " SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. In area, Santa Cruz county is one ot the smallest in California, but in resources, productiveness of soil and natural attractions it might be called the largest in the State. In its equable climate is grown almost every- thing indigenous to the north temperate zone. The county is in central California, eighty miles south of San Francisco; it has a coast line of forty miles, and includes, according to the United States Government survey, 280,000 acres. So rich is it that there are not more than five thousand acres of waste land in the en- tire county. South of this is the Pajaro Valley, the most fertile spot of California, called ' ' the wonder of the Pacific." There is not much stock-raising in Santa Cruz county. The mountains, being heavily timbered, are not adapt- ed to grazing. Nor are citrus fruits cultivated to any great extent; but the apples of Santa Cruz county are superior to any grown in the State, the quality of the wine is unsurpassed in the State, and the remark- able richness of the soil renders the cultivation of pota- toes, beans, hops, sugar beets, etc., profitable to a de- gree unknown in less fertile sections. The vegetable products of the county form one of its most extensive industries. E. S. Harrison, a trustworthy authority in California history, calls Santa Cruz "a vegetable wonderland." Let me illustrate the natural advantages of this region by a comparison. While riding on the Southern Pacific 241 242 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA, railway over the Texas plains, a month ago, the travel- ling auditor of the company, who was on our train, sur- prised me by stating that the company is glad to lease its lands at four cents an acre annually. Land within a couple of miles of where this is written is leased to Chinamen for farming at fifty dollars an acre annually, and they realize from it a profit per acre of two or three hundred dollars. The City of Santa Cruz, the principal city and county seat of the county, lies between the Pacific ocean and the northern side of Monterey bay, about eighty miles south of San Francisco. It nestles among the foot-hills of the Santa Cruz mountains, and its outskirts are bathed by the sea. The city proper has a population of six thousand five hundred, and if East Santa Cruz is included, the population is about nine thousand. The city is growing rapidly. New business houses are constantly going up, capital is coming from the East, and everywhere are evidences of a steady, healthy increase. Santa Cruz has good railroad facilities. Two branches of the Southern Pacific run here direct. They are called the broad gauge and the narrow gauge roads. The broad gauge is an important line running through Santa Clara and Pajaro valleys, passing San Jose and the larger towns between San Francisco and Monterey. The narrow guage runs from San Francisco no farther south than Santa Cruz. It is more of a local line and stops at the smaller places — places, however, of such great interest to tourists as Big Trees. The steamers of the Pacific Steamship Company plying between San Pedro (near Los Angeles), and San Francisco stop here, regularly, on their way north and south. In writing from Hotel del Monte in Monterey, I men- tioned some large oaks and pines ; there are as big and still bigger trees here, or very near here, at a place ap- propriately named Big Trees. It is a ten minute ride SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. 243 on the narrow guage road of the Southern Pacific, or an hour's drive by carriage from Santa Cruz. You need not go to Yosemite, Calaveras or Mariposa to see giants of the forest ; here they are, a grove of 320 acres, some of the trees 300 feet high and 60 feet in circumference. These figures are quoted, but I measured a few speci- mens myself. One about four feet from the ground was 52 feet in circumference. The interior of another, ** General Fremont," had been burned out. Four per- sons beside myself stood inside of it, and thirty-five more, we calculated, could have found room in com- fort. This measured six feet in diameter about five feet from the ground — inside measurement — the " shell " of the tree being probably a foot thick. There are dozens and scores and groups of trees in this wonderful grove, nearly as large. The trees are of the famous California Redwood species, the wood hard as flint and very heavy. The largest specimens are named and bear tablets, "Daniel Webster," '' General Grant," '' General Sherman," **In- gersolVs Cathedral," etc. Under the shadow of the last named, the honorable gentleman held forth one day to an admiring audience. *'Big Trees" is owned by a wealthy widow of San Francisco, Mrs. Walsh. Powerful and proud as are these giants of the forest, some of them have been uprooted by nature's convul- sions and lie humbly and horizontally on the ground. I noticed that a few of these were charred. The keeper of the grounds explained that year after year fire had been tried, but the hardy giants would not yield to flame. They are so thick and hard they won't burn as they lie. " Then why not cut them up," I suggested. '• Oh !" was the answer, '* lumber is worth nothing here ; it is so plentiful." They have done a little "cutting," however. In ex- change for a dime you will get a piece of red wood quite heavy enough for your satchel, or a piece of the 244 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. bark much too clumsy for your coat pocket. The bark is three or four inches thick. This is a famous wine country. We visited the tun- nels of the '* Santa Cruz Mountain Wine Company,*' whose vineyards are visible nine miles away on the hills. The tunnels are dug out of the soft, sand-stone rock and are dark and rather cool. That is to say, the air seemed cool when compared with the atmosphere outside, but as a matter of truth, which is often stranger than fiction, the thermometer showed the temperature in the tunnels to be 52 degrees, and it remains at about that figure all the year round. There are three such tunnels, each 380 feet long, 24 feet wide, and 18 feet high. The vineyards of the company include two hun- dred acres. In these deep, cool tunnels the company has stored in great vats no less than two hundred thousand gallons of wine. Bottle after bottle was opened for our party and so cheaply was it held that the glasses were freely washed with the wine as the different kinds were tasted — port, sherries, clarets and white wines. The claret has good body, and if you add a little water to it, as the French treat vin ordinaire, it makes a very good drink for a thirsty soul at the dinner table. California Angelica has been a popular wine for twenty odd years: the Angelica produced in Santa Cruz is sweet, smooth, oily and delicious. A brand of Sauterne so pleased my palate that I or- dered twenty gallons to be shipped to New York. But I'll let you into the secret of this seemingly extravagant order ; the price is only one dollar per gallon — and not Jones, but I, paid the freight. In ordering this wine I was guided first, by my own taste — it has delicious fla- vor; secondly, I felt assured that it was absolutely pure. The grapes are here, on the spot, ship loads of them, in the season, and there's no incentive for adulteration. The well-kept roads and fine drives about Santa Cruz SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA, 245 are not its least attractive feature. One of them you can take from the shore, driving over a bridge of the San Lorenzo river, passing among other places the twin lakes, on the borders of which are the summer home and settlement of the Christian Church. You keep the mountains in view all the way, and a turn here or there shows you the city, the bay, or the ocean. The three-mile cliff drive, passing Phelan Park, takes you immediately above the rock-bound shore of the Pacific, where you see giant crags upon which the ever- lasting waves have had their effect. Some of the rocks stand off from the shore twenty and fifty feet, and through these the powerful waves have worked great holes, through which the waters rush with a tumultuous roar, dashing their spray far above. These '' natural bridges " would be considered a rare sight if they were ■ the only feature of this scene, and would attract people from a distance, but where there is so much to admire and astonish, they are only one among the many mar- vels that here make an embarrassment of pictorial riches. The city has three banks, good public schools and water- works ; it is sewered to the ocean, it has electric cars, fine public buildings, and two flourishing news- papers, the Sentinel and the Surf. Good society is not lacking, and beautiful homes abound. Major McLaugh- lin's fine Gothic villa cost $70,000 ; the residence of Mayor Bowman commands beautiful views of the bay and the town ; the home of William Kerr, two miles out of the city, is a handsome structure in the Queen Anne style, having two wide entrances and bay windows, affording extensive views of the valley and bay. Mrs. P. B. Fagen's house on MiSvSion street, one of the principal residential streets, at- tracts the attention of all passers-by. Other pretty homes are those of D. K. Abeel, R. Bernheim, Mr. Glover and Mrs. E. J. Green. 246 SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. Mr. J. Philip Smith, a New York capitalist, who has travelled far and wide and who passes much of his time in Europe and New York, came here with his family four years ago, bought a two-acre site upon which a fine house stood and this he enlarged and reconstructed, laying out the grounds in a tasteful way, making it one of the handsomest residences in Santa Cruz. It has a high and enviable position near the Sea Beach Hotel. It reminds you at once upon entering it of a Parisian interior and on closer examination you are not surprised to learn that many of the things of beauty which adorn the rooms had a French origin. The Smiths are great travellers and in their journeyings about the world have "picked up " any number of art works and curios which now find an appropriate resting place. One of the finest views here, one of the most beauti- ful of its kind in the State probably, is to be had from Logan Heights, the estate of Judge J. H. Logan. Judge Logan is president of the Santa Cruz Co. Bank and one of the most esteemed citizens of this section. The house not imposing architecturally, stands on a mesa or pla- teau of about twenty acres, in which beautiful roses and other choice flowers bloom the year round. From this elevated position a series of bird's-eye views are spread out before you, the extent, beauty and variety of which are not easily described. At this point you are two hundred feet above the Pacific ocean. Immediately below, in the foreground, is the whole city of Santa Cruz, with its high school, its gardens, reservoirs, depot, hotels, and its church spires. To your left, eastward, are the villages Soquel and Aptos, famous lumber centres. A few miles further off in the same direction, ghstens Monterey bay, backed by the Santa Cruz mountains. Southward, beyond the city at your feet, winds the bay of Monterey. Look twenty miles further south, and, in this clear atmosphere, you see the sleepy old SANTA CRUZ, CALIFORNIA. 247 town of Monterey with the mountains as a background for the picture. To your right, westward, is the ocean again — alto- gether, forming a number of diversified and beautiful pictures. There are a number of good hotels at Santa Cruz. The leading house is the Sea Beach Hotel, of which Mr. John T. Sullivan is the lessee. He has furnished it in good style and it is well appointed. Viewed either from the heights or from the shore, above which it stands nearly one hundred feet, it is a picturesque place, with beautifully terraced grounds, gracefully sloping to the beach and ornamented by flowers of every description. Every room in the Sea Beach has hot and cold running water, electric lights and call bells. The parlor is on the main floor, in the corner round tower of the building, and, with its many windows, is uncommonly pleasing. Through or from these windows you get the best features of the scenery hereabouts, from the tasteful flower gardens of the hotel grounds to Loma Prieta and the mountains in the dis- tance, or to Monterey, beyond the bay in the fore- ground. The leading commercial hotel is the Pacific Ocean House, located on the principal thoroughfare in the centre of the city. It has all modern improvements as well as large, pleasant sample rooms. Mr. John T. Sullivan is the proprietor of this hotel also, which is all that need be said in reference to the excellence of its management. Mr. Sullivan is not unknown to New York. He was a tried friend of Horace Greeley's and a trusted oflicer under Hon. Thomas L. James in the New York Post-office, in which place he rose after faith- ful service of fifteen years to be superintendent of the newspaper department. Mr. Sullivan has been in vSanta Cruz only five or six years. I saw a modest little two- story building in which he started here, "keeping board- 248 SANTA CRUZ. CALIFORNIA. ers," and he is now interested in the two leading hotels of the town, as part proprietor of one and full proprietor of the other, with the prospect of making his fortune. With success Mr. Sullivan has made many staunch friends, among them the mayor of the town, judges, bank presidents* and other leading citizens. The steamship landing is nearer the Sea Beach Hotel than it is to any other house ; the broad guage station is quite convenient to the hotel, and the narrow guage station five minutes walk around the corner. Santa Cruz is attractive in winter, but in summer it must be delightful. NATURAL BRIDGE, SANTA CRUZ. PASADENA. People who care more for comfort than for great " style," who prefer a quiet, home-like, family house to one of noise and bustle, those who are seeking health, pure air and out-door life with grand views rather than the music, dancing and entertainments of a fashionable hotel may jot down as a memorandum '*The Painter Hotel, at Pasadena, Cal," thirty-five minutes by train from Los Angeles and fifteen minutes by ''free 'bus" from passenger station. It is a new house, was built in '8S; it accommodates seventy-five boarders, and is owned and kept by J. H. Painter's Sons. The house is airy, the bedrooms are comfortably (not luxuriously) furnished, the parlor is pleasant, the class of guests select, the table is well pro- vided, and at once, let me say, ere the important fact escapes me, the rates are remarkably low for the nice appointments and good fare supplied — only $2.50 per day for transient guests, and from $12.50 to $17.50 per week to season boarders, for people come to stay for a month or so — some spend the whole winter here. The house is open the year round, it being pleasant in sum- mer as well as in winter. It is a mountainous district, and the ocean, from which come soft winds in summer, is only thirty minutes' distant in a south and south- westerly direction. Yes, and here are two more facts — Pasadena is one thousand feet above the sea, and the Painter Hotel, which is one and a half miles from the centre of the town, stands on the highest point hereabouts. 249 250 PASADENA. The grounds comprised in the property include ten acres, upon which the owners grow their own fruits for the table — peaches, apricots, raisins, prunes, etc. Do you want to visit the town? Street cars pass the door of the Painter. And if you want a view it will "pay" you to climb up to the roof of the hotel, where there is an observatory. Three miles off is the Ray- mond Hotel, plain to your view in this clear atmosphere. On one side is the San Bernardino range of motmtains, on the other the Sierra Madre range. You may see San Jacinto, ninety miles away, also Wilson's Peak, upon which the new observatory, with its powerful lens, is to be placed; and beautiful San Gabriel valley is spread out immediately beneath you, a feature of which, at this writing, are acres of large, orange-hued poppies, so bright that you could almost imagine them aflame, especially if the wind is blowing, thus giving vibration to the thin, dehcate leaves. The drives are a most delightful feature: — to the city proper, with its wide avenues of beautiful residences, to San Gabriel mission, and to ** Lucky" Baldwin's ranch, a pleasant afternoon drive. Those who are planning a winter or spring tour will thank me for suggesting a visit to the Painter House, but if people demand ** style," if they would dance to orchestral music; if they demand great size in a dining- room and grandeur in the drawing-room, and they are willing to pay for it, all these are also obtainable here, or rather at East Pasadena, which is only three miles distant; eight miles from Los Angeles. And the price, $4.50 per day, $21 to. $28 per week, is reasonable con- sidering what you get for the money. Reference is made to the great Raymond Hotel, which was built in 1886, where they have a bar, as well as billiards and bowling; elevator, electric lights, a re- ception-room, music-room, grand parlor, and a dining- room which accommodates three hundred persons. PASADENA. 251 From your seat at table you see " Old Baldy " looming above the clouds eleven thousand feet and snow-cov- ered ten months out of the twelve, looking like a great sugar-loaf and recalling the Jungfrau, near Interlaken, Switzerland. Like the dining-room of its modest neighbor, the Painter Hotel, every table in the Raymond is decorated daily with fresh flowers plucked from the hotel grounds — this is '* winter," mind you. The grounds of the Ray- mond cover a space of fifty-four acres, so there is no lack of fruit (oranges, lemons, etc.), to say nothing of the roses, blue bells, honeysuckle, dandelions, helio- tropes and violets which may be picked ad libitum — if you don't regard the painted signs. A view from one of the Raymond's verandas is not much unlike that from the front steps of the Grand Hotel in the Catskills, only the former is far more ex- tensive. The proprietor of the Raymond is W. Raymond, of Raymond's Vacation Excursions, Boston, and the man- ager is M. C. Wentworth of Wentworth Hall, in the White Mountains. The post-office address is East Pasa- dena, Cal. Orange Grove avenue and Marengo avenue and the paths in the grounds leading to the houses are lined with luxurious fan palm trees, interspersed with great cacti and not a few century plants, which it is proven here bloom much oftener than once in a hundred years. The calla lily, that delicate plant which is so tenderly cared for in the East that the flower is wrapped in cot- ton wool, here grows in such profusion that it is used for hedges. You will see fields of " callas " at Pasa- dena, raised for shipment to large cities. The whole of Pasadena is like one immense garden, a garden city indeed. Pasadena Cottages. — You would scarcely credit it. SO I won't tell you, that some of the *' cottages " in this 252 PASADENA, new place are as large and elaborate as those on the New Jersey coast, between Seabright and Elberon, and some of them would not look out of place alongside of the grand Newport "cottages." Mr. Kernaghan, editor of the Pasadena Star, has a fine home here. One of the prettiest places belongs to and is occupied by Mrs. Kimball, the widowed daughter of Rufus Hatch of New York. Charles Frederick Holder, formerly of New York, came out here six years ago for his health, and having obtained it has made this his home. He has a cozy cot- tage on Orange Grove avenue in which is his study, where you may find him at his ease, wearing a short black velvet coat or smoking jacket. Mr. Holder is a journalist and litterateur, a frequent contributor to current magazines and leading news- papers. He has published two or three brochures on Pasadena. One of his contributions concerning this section was an illustrated article which appeared in Harpers Weekly. It was entitled "The Rose Tourna- ment," and described a beautiful ceremony which takes place here annually, on New Year's day. Mr. Holder's style is finished and scholarly and his language choice, with no waste of words. Being a man of cultivated taste, with a rare poetic fancy, he is at home here, when treating of this lovely country with its wealth of fruits and flowers. Among others who have built houses and who occupy country seats at Pasadena is Governor Markham, of Cal- ifornia. A Mr. Nelmes has a lovely ten-acre place, and with it a generous heart. A sign placed conspicuously outside his gates reads as follows : ' ' All are welcome to drive through these private grounds and groves. Eastern tourists are each invited to pluck one orange." Some people talk of the winter months in California as "the rainy season." This may be an old story, told of what was the case years a^-o. It certainly is not true to-day. Kxaininini>- the records. I find that from PASADENA, 253 January 5 to February i of this year there was no rain at all in Pasadena, and in all of that time there were but two cloudy days — January 23 and January 28. I have been in Southern California now for about three weeks and have seen it rain only on two days and one night — two days in Los Angeles and one night, for one hour, at Coronado Beach. I don't advise you to throw away your umbrella, as did a tourist from Colorado when coming here, but my experience would show that there is very little use for such an article in Southern California, even in what used to be called " the rainy season." LOS ANGELES. If yon are going from Los Angeles to San Diego, or vice versa, don't go by boat nnless yon have a great af- fection for the sea. First, yon mnst change at San Pedro, from cars to boat ; second, the waterway occu- pies much more time ; but what is most important, if yon go by rail, over the Sante Fe route, yon get magni- ficent and diversified views of the ocean, close views of foot hills and distant views of snow-capped mountains. You pass through a fertile country, see picturesque cot- tages, large sheep and cattle ranches, and great rifts in the mountains that make you smile when you think of *'gaps" in the east, which are so widely advertised. The train skirts the edge of the sea for scores of miles and recalls similar scenic features of land and water which you admire in travelling from Aberdeen to Bal- later over the "Great North of Scotland Railway," a pretty little road with a big sounding name. If you should have to stop on a switch, or for a "heated jour- nal," for five or ten minutes, you can step off the car platform and in a few minutes you can gather a large bouquet of sweet, wild flowers, among them fragrant "mignonette" as they call it here. Southern California might well be named the land of flowers, and this branch of the Sante Fe is entitled to be called by that much abused term, picturesque. Florida Oranges "Beaten." — I wrote last season about some Florida oranges which were shown to me at the .Windsor Hotel, Jacksonville. The largest of them, if I remember aright, uieasured thirteen inches in cir- 254 LOS ANGELES, 255 cumference and weighed twenty-three ounces. I asked, "who can beat these?" They are "beaten." Thismorn- ing I weighed an orange in Los Angeles which turned the beam at thirty-three ounces and which measured nineteen and one-quarter inches. This particular orange was light for its size, because it was not quite ripe nor ' ' full " when picked. It came from George Bunce's grove (pray do not print this "grave") at Rivera, a smalltown nine miles from Los Angeles. The grove was only set out in 1888. All the oranges on the tree from which this one was picked were as large and as heavy as the one described, but there were only three of them. All the ticket brokers' offices, all the fruit stores, segar shops and all the shops of small traders and of places patronized by men have their doors and windows thrown open during business hours. No "protection " from the weather is needed. It is never cold enough for closed doors or windows in the daytime. Nor are some of these places of business closed even at night except by strong iron-wire netting covering the fronts of the stores. This open feature strikes a visitor as very strange at first, but one soon becomes accustomed to it. All through the winter open street cars are used. Four years ago, when the Los Angeles boom was at its height, the foundation was laid near Main street for what was intended to be the largest hotel in the United States. There it stood and there it stands to-day (the foundation), the bricks appearing just one foot above the ground level. These bricks enclose a space of two acres. Pullman, of sleeping-car fame, was one of those interested, and he says that the idea has not been en- tirely abandoned. The idea may yet exist but the open lots and the brick foundation look very lonesome. Meanwhile Mr. O. T. Johnson erected a very handsome hotel, The Westminster, on the corner of Main and Fourth streets, which will accommodate two hundred and fifty guests. The site of the Westminster is choice; 256 LOS ANGELES. the house contains all the modern improvements; it is well furnished and well patronized. As I write, in my bedroom of the Westminster Hotel, looking north I can see, without rising from my seat, great high mountains covered with snow. They pre- sent a most beautiful picture in this clear atmosphere, with the sun shining upon them. That ** cranky critic," as the New York Hotel Gazette calls Max O'Rell, would be suited at the Westminster Hotel. O'Rell complains because in American hotels guests have regular seats; that each person upon enter- ing the dining-room is not allowed to sit just where he pleases. The contrary is the rule in the hotel mentioned. A notice is prominently posted near the elevator which reads : * * Positively no seats reserved in the dining- room." The waiters are young, intelligent American girls of a good class, some from New York and some from Nebraska, all uniformed in white. They look neat and clean, are alert to take an order and quick in serv- ing it. Strawberry short-cake was part of the dessert at to- day's luncheon in the Hotel Westminster. Fresh-picked strawberries are served every morning for breakfast. Not a dozen or two small, hard berries, such as I have seen served for a ''portion" at hotel tables in Florida during February, but a saucerful for each guest of large, ripe berries that have a delicious flavor. Strawberry ice-cream was on the dinner menu — the cream made, not from "strawberry flavoring," but of the honest fruit. Fresh peas and Lima beans figure on the bill, also oranges in profusion, picked from the groves hard by. All the way between New Orleans, La., and Los Angeles, Cal., on the Southern Pacific railroad, you pay five to ten cents each for oranges ; as soon as you reach Los Angeles, boys with baskets of the golden fruit swarm about the cars crying out, " Oranges, three for a LOS ANGELES. 257 nickel, six for a dime." If you have a little patience you will hear, " Oranges, eight for a dime," and if you wait till the train is about to start you can get ten for a dime. Possibly after you are out of hearing they are sold at ten cents a dozen. "THE CALIFORNIA," IN SAN FRANCISCO. California being one of the largest of these United States, the Californians thought that their chief city should have large hotels, so they built in San Francisco the Baldwin House, the Lick House, the Occidental and larger than any of these, the Palace Hotel, "larger than any hotel in existence," it is claimed. Whether this claim is well founded or not, the Palace is large enough to suit the most extravagant American ideas. It occupies three acres of ground. It has seven hun- dred and fifty-five bedrooms; number of rooms all told, ten hundred and fifteen. But with the growth of the State and the growth of culture and good taste, Californians and tourists from other States demanded something above and beyond mere size;* and so two years ago was erected "The California." There are several " California Hotels " in San Francisco, in fact, an old house directly opposite the California now calls itself **The New California," probably because the name is new. So many houses with names near alike give trouble to the Post-ofiice people, but the title of the house of which I write is simply ** The California." It is in a central and accessible part of the city — in Bush street, just off Kearney street, which runs nearly parallel with Market, being not far from the Chronicle building, which with its great clock tower running up hundreds of feet in the air, serves as a finger or sign- post from many parts of the city. The front is of cedar-colored sandstone, and with its modern, low-arched entrances and high, round towers, 258 THE CALIFORNIA. 259 is uncommonly pleasing to the eye. There are one hun- dred and forty rooms in the house, and it is nine stories high, the higher floors being most desirable. The light is better as you ascend, and the views from the win- dows across the bay and the Golden Gate are a con- stant delight. From my bedroom window I can plainly see the graceful movements of the white squadron, which, with the green hills in the far distance make a magnificent picture. The California was erected by *' an estate," and the estate considered not the expense. They started out with the idea to build a hotel as near perfection as possible, and they succeeded. Every known precaution is taken against fire. It was the intention from the first to build a house as proof against fire as men, money and materials could make it. Scientists were consulted as to sanitation and plumb- ing, and to these points special thought and attention were given, Such luxurious fittings in marble and silver plate I have never seen surpassed, if equalled; not even in my recent ten-thousand-mile tour through the South and West, and I have visited hotels that cost all the way from one to three millions of dollars. Instead of marble and brass, which are used so freely in large American hotels, rare and beautiful woods pre- vail in decorating the interior of the new house. The ground floor is finished in quartered oak, the second in bird's-eye maple, the third and fourth in sycamore, the fifth and sixth in red birch, and the seventh, eighth and ninth in oak. The wood was cut, carved and pol- ished especially for the building, and is of the most ex- quisitely beautiful grain. Max O'Rell would be pleased. Printed rules are not posted on all the bedroom doors : it would be an act of vandalism to thrust a nail into hard wood of such high polish and beautiful grain. The furniture and carpets harmonize in colors and are very rich : there seems to have been no thought of economy. The bedrooms are 260 THE CALIFORNIA. furnished as you would furnish your own apartment, provided you had a large bank account. They only lack pictures, mantel ornaments and such dainty etce- teras, as you find, for instance, in the bedrooms of Long's Hotel in London, to give them a finished, home- like and elegant air. Some idea as to the excent to which this wood decora- tion is carried, may be gained when it is told that the wood used to decorate the parlor and music-room cost six thousand dollars, and yet they are small apartments when compared, say, with those of the Windsor Hotel, New York. The music-room adjoins the parlor, and is only sep- arated from it by a pair of portieres. It is circular, with a frescoed dome. It is only twenty-four feet in di- ameter ; but a veritable bijou is this music-room. It has tables and a cabinet of onyx, pieces of statuary and bronze, two piano lamps and a pedestal upon which stands a vase decorated with scenes painted by a French artist. The vase itself is three feet high. There are two semi-circular upholstered recesses in this room cur- tained in front. Occasionally these recesses are put to a very good use. I have seen young couples, a modern Claude and Pauline, engaged in very close conversation behind the curtains, whispering '' soft nothings " to each other. " Soft " without doubt were the words spoken, and, so far as I heard, they amounted to nothing. In the central front wall of this room there is a win- dow, and pendant in this window is a colored lamp in which electric light is continually burning. There are similar lamps hanging in each of the cozy recesses — the scene, with its Moorish surroundings, reminding you of an Oriental synagogue, in which there is a similar lamp, and in which, according to Jewish custom in public places of worship, the light is never allowed to go out. Of electric lamps, there are twenty-five hundred in the house. THE CALIFORNIA, 361 There is a ladies' waiting-room which is strictly re- served for ladies ; there is a ladies' billiard-room, as well as one for gentlemen ; there is a banqueting-room for public dinners at the top of the house, and at the bottom of the house there are cellars which contain a stock of choice wines valued at twenty thousand dol- lars. The European plan is gaining in popularity in this country. When you proceed to write your name on the register at the Palace Hotel the clerk asks, ''Euro- pean or American plan?" At the California no such question is propounded ; it is kept entirely on the European plan. But they have a restaurant which is a feature, if not the feature of the house. It measures 1 20 x 30 feet, it has tiled floor, mirrored walls, beautifully decorated ceilings and countless electric lamps. During the din- ner hour a band, stationed in a half-hidden gallery at the end of the restaurant, performs music that is prop- erly called pleasing — light selections which suggest good cheer, and which no doubt aid digestion. The restaurant is entered from the street as well as from the interior, and such is its popularity that it is patronized by many people who are not otherwise guests of the house. It is equal in style of service to any cafe I know of — to the Cafe Savarin or the Brunswick in New York ; in fact, the manager, A. F. Kinzler, is a son of Francis Kinzler of the Brunswick. The question of moustached waiters was easily set- tled at the California. They are skilled and experienced French and Swiss waiters, and there was no demur to the order, shave the upper lip. SALT LAKE CITY. On the last Sunday of September 1890, 1 was one among the five thousand people who enjoyed the masterly elo- quence of Spurgeon at his Tabernacle in London ; to- day, Monday, I was in the Mormon Tabernacle, where a conference was being held, and in which w^ere gathered as many people as the great building would hold, — seated and standing, twelve thousand. Several Mormon elders held forth, but what they said did not particularly interest me. It was, for the most part, a defense of their form of "religion," and they claimed they had a right, in this free country, to teach and practice their peculiar doctrine. The acoustic properties of this great edifice are excel- lent ; I tested them in different parts of the house, and heard almost every word that was said by the several speakers. Each spoke but for a short time, ten or fif- teen minutes. The most interesting 23art of Monday's ** session" to my mind was the musical part, a chorus of two hundred and fifty male and female voices singing to the rich and powerful tones of what is claimed to be the largest organ but one in the world. A strange feature of the assemblage was the great number of young children and babes in arms ; the crowd of baby carriages in the halls and entrances being very noticeable. The exterior of the Tabernacle, from its oval shape, is often likened to half an egg bisected lengthwise ; 262 SALT LAKE CITY, 263 to me it looks like a tortoise, with its low curved roof and its remarkably short pillars, only a few feet apart. But it is a mammoth tortoise, 250 x 150 feet, with not a column nor a pillar to obstruct the view — the largest span of unsupported wooden roof in the world. The Temple in Salt Lake City, the corner-stone of which was laid on the twelfth of April, 1853, is, like the municipal buildings in Philadelphia, the City Hall in San Francisco and the Cathedral in Cologne, still unfinished, although $3,500,000 has been expended in its construction so far. The Temple's dimensions are 200 X 100 feet. It is built entirely of granite. The towers are beau- tiful. When completed they will be 200 feet high. A marble slab 12x3 feet is inserted in the centre tower. Upon that slab appears this inscription in gold letters: " Holiness to the Lord, the house of the Lord. Built by the Church of Jesus Christ, of latter-day saints. Commenced April 6, 1853. Completed" — space is left under the word "completed" in which to insert the date, but that space may not be filled during the next quarter of a century. The first blocks of granite for the building were hauled from the quarries, a distance of twenty miles, by oxen, but for many years past the granite has been brought to the city by a railroad planned originally by Mormons. Salt Lake, on account of its unpaved streets, must be miserable as a place of residence. In wet weather the mud in the streets is from six inches to two feet deep, and in dry weather the dust is intolerable. It is probably not quite so bad in these respects as Key West, Florida, but it is always disagreeable enough. Yet the city is well laid out ; all the streets are over one hundred feet wide ; there is a good system of electric street-cars, and 364 SALT LAKE CITY. there are many fine granite and brick business blocks. Salt Lake has an evident air of prosperity. Its popula- tion has more than doubled in the past ten years. In 1880 it was 20,000 ; in 1890 45,000. Brigham street, the Fifth avenue of Salt Lake, con- tains not a few private residences of which any city might be proud. The leading hotel is "The Templeton," owned by a company of which D. C. Young is president. The man- ager of the hotel is Alonzo Young. The president and the manager are both sons of Brigham Young, but are half brothers only. Brigham sleeps with a couple of his wives in a cemetery a few hundred feet from the hotel. The Templeton is new and substantial, but it was not erected for a hotel, and it lacks some conveniences which you expect to find. It is better adapted for an office building, which was its original purpose. The dining-room is on the top floor, as is the dining- room of the Auditorium in Chicago, and the Vendome in New York, and as is the kitchen of the Windsor Hotel in London. From this room in the Templeton, if you secure a choice seat, you get most magnificent views. You are surrounded by snow-covered mountains, and to the west you see the principal buildings of the city — the Mormon Tabernacle, the Temple and the Assembly Hall, all en- closed and fenced within a ten-acre lot. We were unfortunate in the time of our visit to Salt Lake. The city was crowded on account of the Mormon conference and all the hotels were full. At the Temple- ton they had an insufficient number of waiters and they served saucers of ice cream on warm plates. I had occasion to look at the city directory of Salt Lake and in turning over the leaves I noticed that there are living no less than nine widows of the lamented apostle of Mormonism, Brigham Young. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Saratoga is lavishly endowed by nature with all the at- tributes of a popular resort. Situated at a high altitude, among the foot-hills of the Adirondacks, its climate is de- lightful, the air pure, dry, and bracing, the evening deli- ciously cool, even in the dog-days. A beautiful, rolling country, charmingly diversified by hills, valleys, and streams, stretches for miles on every side, affording delightful walks and drives ; its mineral springs possess wonderful curative powers. A prominent physician once told me that he se- cured more real substantial benefit from one week in Sara- toga than from a month's stay at any other resort, and there are hundreds of others ready to endorse this opinion. It has been said that nature is responsible for only one- half the beauties of Saratoga, the rest being due to man's agency ; and this is undoubtedly true. Art has taken hold of nature's raw material and transformed it into a veritable paradise. Its boulevards and parks are the delight of all visitors ; its hotels rank among the largest and best in the world. Saratoga has become within a few years the great summer capital of America. It is the centre each season of the highest social, educational, and political gatherings. The broad piazzas of its vast hotels present a panorama of the best and most varied types of our leisurely classes, re- inforced by thousands of the affluent citizens of other lands. The season reaches its height during the race meeting, which usually opens the latter part of July, and continues through August. During that time the capacity of the ho- tels is taxed to the utmost, and the streets and avenues are filled with gay throngs of pedestrians, and an apparently 265 266 SARATOGA SPRINGS. endless procession of handsome equipages, presenting a brilliant spectacle. But Saratoga is not given up altogether to people of fash- ion. It is also the resort of a very large number of people in moderate circumstances, and for them it offers a wide range of accommodations. Boarders are received in scores of private families at reasonable prices, and it is not at all necessary to go to a hotel, unless you prefer hotel life. Ex- cellent accommodations are obtainable at from seven to twelve dollars a week. Saratoga also enjoys the advantage of an unsurpassed railroad service. During the season the New York Central runs nine fast trains at convenient hours, daily, each way, between Saratoga and New York, and every Saturday afternoon a special limited train takes visitors to Saratoga to spend Sunday, returning to New York at an early hour Monday morning. All these trains are run on a fast schedule, and they are equipped with Wagner drawing-room, buffet, and smoking cars of the latest and most luxurious pattern. Saratoga is also reached promptly and conveni- ently from the West by the same railroad line (New York Central) with its many daily fast express trains, via Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Rochester, by direct connections at Schenectady and Albany. Notwithstanding the many new attractions in the many new places of resort, Saratoga Springs, without ^^ booming " by the railway people, without large advertising or special effort by the hotel-keepers, holds its own not only as ^^ the Queen of American Spas," but undoubtedly as the most pop- ular s.ummer resort in America, as it has been for a century, more or less. As to the famous hotels of Saratoga, it may be of interest to say that the '^ Union," as it was then called, was opened in the year 1800, ''Congress Hall" in 1812, the first ''States" in 1824. The old " States " was built and kept by Judge Marvin, who died in 1852. Let me hasten to say that I had not the honor of his personal acquaintance, but I have met his SARATOGA SPRINGS. 267 brother, the Hon. James M. Marvin, who was his partner and who still owns an interest in the property. He has reached the ripe age of eighty-three, and is still hale and hearty. Here is some more history, ancient, if not interesting. The old house was destroyed by fire in 1865, the present large and fine structure was built in 1873 and opened in the following year. The firm of Ainsworth, Tompkins & Perry built this house, and they kept it. Ainsworth is dead ; Tomp- kins and Perry are very much alive, the firm of proprietors to-day being Tompkins, Gage & Perry — Hiram Tompkins, William B. Gage, and Dr. J. L. Perry. And here are a couple of personal items — Mr. Gage, of the present firm, married a daughter of the Hon. James M. Marvin, and Dr. Perry, aforesaid, wedded a daughter of Judge Marvin, so the *' proprietorship," as it is called, and the ownership also, if not somewhat mixed, are both in the family. The father of the present Dr. Perry was a physician before him, practis- ing in what was then the village of Saratoga. I have for years called ^' the States" '' the model hotel of the world," and this opinion is shared by many experienced hotel men, among them no less a celebrity in the business than Jarnes H. Breslin. There are many works of art in the broad halls, in the magnificent writing-room where men congregate, and in the cosey sitting-rooms set apart more especially for the softer sex. The collection is large and valuable. American hotels may be methodical, but their methods as a rule are superior to those of the European houses. In the elevator I was ascending late, one night, and I complained of the slow rate at which the car was rising. ^Mts pace," I remarked to the man in the lift, ^^ reminds me of the lift at Charing Cross Hotel,'* and I got this explanation: ^* After half-past ten at night, sir, our orders are to go at half-speed; full speed might disturb the early sleepers." This of itself gives some idea of the careful way in which *' the States" is managed. LAKE IN THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. The Adirondack Mountains occupy an area of about one hundred square miles in the north-eastern part of New York State, lying in the counties of Hamilton, Herkimer, Lewis, St. Lawrence, Franklin, Clinton, Essex, and Warren. Over the greater part of this extensive tract stretch magnificent forests of pine, spruce, fir, and hemlock, many of whose re- cesses have never been trodden by mortal foot. In the cool depths of these forests, and in the valleys be- tween the mountains, are hundreds of beautiful lakes, vary- ing considerably in size, many of them connected by tiny streams just wide enough to permit the passage of a small boat — links in the grand system of carries and portages by which this entire region is traversed with unerring step by the experienced woodsman. Their waters of crystal purity teem with all manner of 2iSS ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS, 269 gamy fish, — brook- and salmon-trout, pickerel, pike, and that chief delight of anglers, the black bass. Deer, moose, otter, beaver, and all kinds of small game are abundant, and by a wise provision of legislation, limiting the quantity of game to be taken out of the woods by sportsmen, the supply is in no danger of being exhausted. Although within a comparatively short distance of New York and Brooklyn, until recently the charms of the Adi- rondacks were familiar only to a few ardent sportsmen, who went there year after year for trout and venison, and who, knowing they had '' a good thing," kept very quiet about it. But gradually people began to find out what there was away up there in the mountains, and the masses learned to love the cool forests, the sparkling brooks, and grand lakes, so that to-day the region has truly become " The Nation's Pleasure Ground and Sanitarium." Hotels have sprung up in all directions, and the accommodations and rates for en- tertainment are sufficiently varied to suit all tastes and all pocket-books. The railroads, of course, especially the New York Cen- tral, have been the prime factors in this development, and now, with the completion of Dr. Webb's road, the new Adi- rondack & St. Lawrence Line, extending for nearly two hun- dred miles through the very heart of the wilderness, every resort or camping-place of consequence is rendered easily accessible. There are many gateways or entrances to the North Woods, and it would take a good sized volume to describe them all in detail, but the principle ones are, viz. : \'ia Herkimer and the Adirondack & St. Lawrence Line to Fulton Chain, Raquette Lakes, Paul Smith's, Saranac and Tupper Lakes. Via Saratoga and the Adirondack Railroad to Luzerne and North Creek. Via Lake Champlain and Westport to Au Sable Chasm, Elizabethtown, and Keene Valley. The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is, of 270 ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. course, the initial line ; all routes to the Adirondacks lead over it. The average cost of an excursion ticket to the dif- ferent prominent resorts is from $10.00 to $15.00. Warm clothing should be taken, but as little of it as possible, es- pecially if you contemplate camping out. Wear good, stout, broad-soled shoes, not boots, and do not have hob-nails in them, as they ruin a boat. For fishing it will be necessary to have a strong fly rod, say eight ounces, about ten or ten and a half feet long, with plain click reel, filled with thirty- five or forty yards of water-proof silk line ; half a dozen stout leaders, and two or three dozen flies on No. 6 or 8 sproat. Take bait hooks, and a few gangs for lake trout trolling. Thus equipped, enter the woods, leaving behind all thoughts of shop or office, all considerations of the hum- drum affairs of ordinary, every-day life, and give yourself unreservedly to the delights of fishing and exploring. My word for it, you will emerge at the end of your vacation with improved lungs, improved health generally, and a fresh stock of energy. THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. The very name, Thousand Islands, conjures up visions of romantic novelty and loveliness, and this is one of the very few instances where ^^ fancy does not beggar facts and throw over them the rags of disappointment." The name is in some respects a misnomer, for there are nearly two thousand of these islands altogether, ranging in size from a surface a few yards in extent to an area of sev- eral acres. They are scattered in profusion for a distance of forty miles, between Cape Vincent and Morristown. As a sum- mer resort, the region of the St. Lawrence is rapidly assum- ing that distinction in popular estimation to which superior advantages justly entitle it. The climate is dry, cool, and refreshing, the surroundings picturesque, the facilities for boating unexcelled ; while to the enthusiastic fisherman it is a veritable Paradise, where bass and pickerel and the mighty muskallonge roam in countless numbers. The usual mode of travelling here is, of course, by boat; consequently a good deal of attention has been paid to model and build, and the St. Lawrence skiffs have become world-renowned. Boat-building on the river has become an established industry, forming the principal winter occupa- tion of most of the guides. As the materials cost them lit- tle and the boats command good prices, they make a hand- some profit on every sale. The more luxurious of these boats are carpeted, have nickel and brass fittings, and are polished like a piano. They are beautiful to the eye and lack nothing in comfort- able appointments. The St. Lawrence guides are not only expert sailors, but 271 272 THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, good cooks as well, and it is astonishing what an excellent meal they will get up with the limited means at command. In fact, I think an island dinner is one of the most enjoyable features of a trip to the St. Lawrence. The principal points of resort among the islands are Clay- ton, the railroad terminus ; Round Island, the site of the Frontenac Hotel ; Thousand Island Park, the extensive camp-meeting resort of the Methodists ; Central Park (Cot- tage Hotel) and Alexandria Bay, where are located the famous Crossmon House and the Thousand Island House. Alexandria Bay, from its central position in the very heart of the Thousand Island region, and from the vast improve- ments that have sprung up as if by magic within the past five years, both on the islands and in the mainland, has achieved a wide reputation. The Thousand Islands probably enjoys the best train ser- vice of any resort of equal prominence in the world. Dur- ing the season the New York Central runs several through fast trains daily between New York and Clayton, and last year a special car was attached to its lightning Empire State Express for the accommodation of travellers over this route. '-^"^>> .. 7|, NIAGARA FALLS FROM J'ROSFKCT POINT, NIAGARA FALLS. A FAMOUS writer has said, ^' No place in the civilized world offers such attractions as Niagara, and yet they can never be fully known except to those who see them, from the utter impossibility of describing such scenes. When motion can be expressed by color, then, and only then, can Niagara be described." My first visit to Niagara was made in my teens, when, I do not hesitate now to admit, I could not appreciate its wondrous beauty. I saw nothing but a great lot of water rushing madly over the precipice, and, like the Irishman, I said to myself, ' ' What's to hinder it ? " But I have been there many times since, and each visit has only increased my sense of the surpassing grandeur and majesty of the scene. The great features of Niagara you will find ever the same, but their individual expression is constantly changing. With every season, with every sunbeam or passing cloud, they assume a different appearance, and evoke new admira- tion. The great cataract, supposed by many to be the single absorbing feature of Niagara, is really only one of a multi- tude of attractions. '*It's tossing rapids, its milk-white waves, its rainbow-tinted spray in the opal light of morning, the crimson and gold of the sunset and under the mysteri- ous glamour of the moon," possess for me equal powers of fascination. When Father Hennepin first saw Niagara Falls, he dis- covered the greatest natural wonder in the world, and those early pioneers who started a settlement here in the faith that this spot was susceptible of expansion into prominence 278 274 NIAGARA FALLS. and popularity as a resort for tourists, displayed no aston- ishing foresight, but simply exercised the most ordinary faculty of common sense ; for how could so healthful and beautiful a place, encompassing within its borders the most sublime masterpiece of the Creator's handiwork, lack appre- ciation. The village of Niagara is most charming in many ways and undoubtedly healthful. The air is invigorating ; the atmosphere, constantly acted upon by the rushing water and the spray, is kept pure and fresh ; good roads extend in every direction, and hotel accommodations are ample and excellent. In order to ^^do the Falls" thoroughly, you should stay here at least a week, although perseverance and a stout pair of legs can get over a good deal of the ground in less time. The chief points of interest, aside from the Falls themselves, are Luna and Goat Islands, the Three Sister Islands, the Rapids, the Whirlpool, and the Cave of the Winds. The last named is an opening directly behind the great American Fall. The cave is one hundred and fifty feet wide, one hundred feet high, and is approached by a lit- tle bridge, two feet wide, over which the visitor must pass. This is a little terrifying at first, but the guide is very posi- tive in his assurances that this seemingly frail structure is perfectly safe, being supported by strong stays firmly im- bedded in the rocks on which it is built. So fascinating is this trip, that a visit to Niagara is incomplete without it. There is also the run down to Lewiston on one of the ob- servation trains of the New York Central— a trip of seven miles along shelving rock, overlooking the wonderful gorge through which the Niagara pushes its way onward to Lake Ontario, the foaming Rapids and the angry Whirlpool. Prob- ably no trip in the world of equal length compares with this for grandeur of scenery. Arrived at Lewiston, you may, if you please, continue your trip across the lake to Toronto, a splendid line of twin-screw Clyde-built steamers plying be- tween the two points. ATLANTIC CITY. No foreigner should visit these shores without spending at least a day or two at some of our typical summer or winter resorts, in season. He will find their characteristics totally different to any in his own land, and he may be able to gain by contact with the people whom he may meet at these resorts, an idea of our social peculiarities. Atlantic City is a typical American summer resort, and incidentally its peculiar advantages as to climate and soil have given it fame as a late winter and early spring retreat. It is not like Brighton, Margate, Bournemouth, Torquay, Trou- ville, Scheveningen, nor any other foreign seaside resort, but it has a combination of advantages peculiar to itself. At- lantic City is on the New Jersey coast, one hundred miles dis- tant from New York, and is reached in ninety minutes from Philadelphia. It is a city in reality as well as in name, built on an island ten miles long, and surrounded by the ocean — thus isolated, as by quarantine, from the approach of diseases that are bred from germs and microbes. This, together with the dryness of the soil and the excellent hygienic regulations, preserves Atlantic City from malaria and makes it a haven of rest or recreation. How do visitors spend their time ? Much as they please, for the ^' City by the Sea " offers an embarrassment of sum- mer pastimes and pleasures. Bathing, perhaps, is the chief recreation. The beach for bathing is unsurpassed, being not inferior to Pablo Beach, near Jacksonville, Florida. The sea offers other pleasures. Fleets of sail-boats, manned by ''sea dogs," take you for a sail on the smooth waters of the inlet or outside upon the open sea. All boats are provided with fishing tackle ; famous fishing-grounds 275 276 ATLANTIC CITY. are near by, and the veriest tyro in the gentle art may quickly fill his basket. When the day is done, the great hotels are ablaze with lights and brilliant with the evening costumes of the fair guests. All the chief hotels provide good orchestral music, and, under the stimulation of the invigorating atmosphere of the place, the dance is entered upon with zest. An attractive feature of Atlantic City is the ^' board walk," twenty-four feet wide, extending along the edge of the sea for four miles. This is the popular promenade by day or night. The drives are good, either along the smooth, hard sands, or through the broad streets of the city, or among the pines of the mainland. The climate and temperature, both in spring and summer, are delightful and equable. The water, introduced from fresh springs of the mainland as well as from Artesian wells, is abundant and pure. The social attractions of Atlantic City add to the charm of the place at all seasons. In the spring and early summer, representatives of the best society of New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Chicago, and other cities east and west, may be found in the large hotels, and many of the habitues have handsome cottages of their own. The individual attractions of the large number of excellent hotels at Atlantic City are fully enumerated in the summer resort guide, near the end of this volume. Nowhere, for first-class accommodations, are hotel rates so moderate as in Atlantic City, except possibly in Southern California. A few houses may be instanced : The Brighton, the Traymore, Haddon Hall, the Shelburne, and the Dennis. These hotels, by the way, are open the year round. The proprietors of the Hotel Brighton have recently completed the Brighton ^* Casino," on the Brighton lawns, facing the ocean. It is a handsome three-story building of picturesque architectural design. It contains luxuriously appointed sun parlors, reading and smoking rooms, a hand- some concert and ball room, hot and cold sea-baths, a swimming pool of white marble, bowling alley, and other ATLANTIC CITY. 277 attractive features. The cost is $60,000, and it will be one of the most beautiful structures on the coast. F'ortunately for the convenience and comfort of its habitues and visitors, Atlantic City is located on one of the branch lines of the Pennsylvania Railroad. In fact, there are two distinct lines operated by the Pennsylvania Railroad from Philadelphia to Atlantic City. These roads are built and maintained in that excellent condition which characterizes all the lines of this great corporation. They are so operated, as regards express trains, as to secure the advantages of a double-tracked line, and, with the frequent fast trains which ply between the Quaker City and its sea- side suburb, this arrangement makes transportation not only prompt and easy, but perfectly safe. With all the principal trains from west and south, regular connection is made at Philadelphia for Atlantic City. The through car arrangements of the Pennsylvania Railroad are so comprehensive, that one can travel from the most distant points to Atlantic City with but one change of cars. From New England and points north and west of New York City, the facilities are equally good. The fast express from New- York, established several years ago, runs direct, without change, from Jersey City to Atlantic City in three and one- half hours. It leaves New York in the early afternoon, after the trains from the north, east, and west have all arrived, and it reaches Atlantic City in ample time for dinner or tea. This train is made up of Pullman buffet, • parlor cars, and passenger coaches. A similar train leaves Atlantic City in the morning, and arrives in New York be- fore luncheon. CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. Chicago is best reached from New York by the Pennsyl- vania Railroad or the New York Central and Hudson River Railroad. Both are popular routes and both com- panies run frequent fast trains. The service of trains on each line includes a ^Mimited,'* composed entirely of ves- tibuled cars, embodying the luxuries and appointments of a first-class hotel. These trains make the journey in twenty-four hours ; the regular trains take about six hours longer. The fare by both roads is the same. Choice of route must depend largely upon fancy. The Pennsylvania road passes around Horse Shoe Bend, a picturesque wonder of Allegheny mountain scenery ; the New York Central route takes the passenger within view of Niagara Falls. The Erie road also runs trains to Chicago, not so frequently nor perhaps at such great speed, but the fare is a trifle less. Chicago is a few miles less than a thousand from New York by rail. It is on the south-western shore of Lake Michigan, and lies on its curving banks, along which it extends for about twenty miles. It is not a particularly attractive city, because of the appreciable gloom cast by the smoke from the factories in the suburbs. From this smoke small particles of carbon — '' smuts" — fall continually in an invisible shower, sifting through the window crevices and soihng furniture, carpets, clothing, and person. The city has some magnificent buildings and some remarkably tall ones, and many fine thoroughfares. The characteristic of the people is activity. In Western parlance they are *' hustlers." The Chicago River, which is formed by the confluence of two branches, one flowing from the north-west, the other 278 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 279 from the south, runs, after the junction of these branches, through the city eastward for about half a mile to the lake. These streams are spanned by more than fifty swinging bridges, and are tunnelled for the passage of cable cars and traffic. The ''west," the ''north side," and the "south side " are terms used in locating streets or houses, and they refer to directions from this stream. The World's Fair grounds are on the lake shore, about five miles southward from the heart of the city. They are easily accessible by the Illinois Central Railroad which has a convenient terminus and frequent way-stations ; by the elevated railroad, which terminates at Congress Street, a step from the Auditorium Hotel ; and by the Wabash and Cottage Grove cable cars — the latter route, which is the longest, not occupying over half an hour, say, from the Post Office. The Fair will open on May ist, and remain open until the last of October. Its magnitude and beauty must be seen to be properly conceived. By the Pennsylvania road you will arrive at the Union Depot, Adams Street ; via the New York Central you will arrive at the Michigan Central Depot at Twelfth Street, or at the Lake Shore Depot, Van Buren Street. These depots are ten minutes or less from the busiest part of the city, and they are within easy walking distance of the chief hotels. Reliable transfer companies will convey you and your bag- gage to any hotel at a fixed charge. Hackmen and cabmen, as usual, will charge what they can get, although the legal rate for cabs is twenty-five cents per mile. Michigan Avenue Boulevard is the finest thoroughfare. No car tracks nor heavy traffic are permitted. It begins on the lake front and runs along its border until the shore curves away. At the lower end are substantial business structures and some fine hotels, notably the Auditorium just above Van Buren Street, at which street is a station of the Illinois Central Railroad, whence the guest of the hotels of the " down-town" district would start for the Fair. " Down- town " in Chicago is the business portion of the' city, 280 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, cantaining some of the chief hotels, the Post Office, banks, clubs, theatres, and large retail shops. Chicago streets are laid for the most part at right angles and offer no labyrin- thine problems. Next parallel to Michigan Avenue is State Street, then Wabash Avenue, Dearborn and Clark, all broad and busy streets, traversed by cable cars which run rapidly. The purpose of this chapter is to offer suggestions to the stranger which will guide if not direct him in the choice of an abiding place during his stay in the "• Windy City.'* The hotels mentioned here, it may be safely said, represent each the best of its kind. It is to be noted of them, in general, that they all have the modern improvements unless otherwise stated— electric lights, hot and cold running water, excellent ventilation, and praiseworthy sanitation of plumb- ing, as well as good domestic service. Those hotels only have been selected which may be commended : hotels to be avoided in Chicago, as elsewhere, are too numerous to men- tion. Chicago hotel rates are not high, but the visitor must expect to pay more during the continuance of the Fair. Where possible, rates for the Fair period have been obtained. It is safe to say that the hotels enumerated here, being first-class houses, will not fleece the visitor. I am credibly informed that so far as possible regular rates will be adhered to. At all events, applications and agreements as to rates may be made in advance. The 'Mown-town " hotels, to be mentioned in detail fur- ther on, are the Auditorium, Palmer House, Richelieu, Vic- toria, Wellington, and Great Northern — all within ten minutes' walk of each other, and therefore all having about the same advantages of location. They receive a large share of patronage from commercial travellers. This district cor- responds to Fourteenth Street, Twenty-third Street, and Forty-second Street, of New York. Another group of hotels is composed of the Virginia, the Lakota, the Metropole, and the Lexington, located in quiet and fashionable residential portions of the city. They compare in character with the Windsor, Brunswick, Plaza, and Logerot hotels of New York, CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 281 and not one of them is more than fifteen minutes from the Post Office and Board of Trade, theatres, etc. The third group of hotels that call for consideration are at or near the Fair grounds. Among the best of them is the Chicago Beach, the Renfost, and the Hyde Park. They are not the World's Fair hotels which have become notorious for their flimsy construction. They are some distance from down-town, but right in the line of growth of the choice resi- dence streets. By heeding the above suggestions, it is be- lieved that the visitor will be able to decide whither to direct his steps to procure *^ bed and board," without a shade of regret that he did not go ^^ somewhere else." Finally, it is suggested to procure a guide to Chicago containing a good map; Rand, McNally & Co.'s ^' Handy Guide" may be recommended. The Lakota. — If you are used to the luxuries and refine- ments of life, you will miss them at many of the hotels at which you are obliged to put up. With this expectation, you will be agreeably surprised if you should happen to select the Lakota, Chicago's newest select hotel. It is on Michigan Avenue Boulevard, the pride of Chicago streets, through which no trucks are allowed to pass, and no car- tracks are laid. It stands at the corner of Thirtieth Street ; the elevated railroad station is at Thirty-first Street, and almost within hail are the cable cars, bringing the life of the city, its shops, banks, theatres, and clubs, within fifteen minutes' ride. In respect of location, the Lakota does not yield to any hotel in the city. The locality is ultra-fashion- able, this portion of the boulevard containing the luxurious homes of Chicago's famous multi-millionnaires. The Lakota was only recently opened, but it was two years a-building It is constructed of steel and stone, absolutely fire-proof, and architecturally a credit to the city. It embodies the latest achievements and luxuries that the age offers to travellers. The Lakota is ten stories high and has three hundred rooms, the largest hotel apartments in Chicago, suitably arranged 282 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, for rental en suite or singly. The building is so constructed that each room, and even every bath-room, opens on the street. In furnishing and decoration the Lakota is in per- fect harmony with the aristocratic homes that surround it. The main floor is finished in pure marble, massive and beau- tifully carved, and the apartments are finished in five different kinds of cabinet woods, not varnished, but piano-polished. Among the notable features of this hotel are its cuisine and its service — a *^ club " service. The kitchen itself would commend the Lakota to the favor of fastidious people. All in all, this hotel will easily take rank with the Windsor Hotel, New York, which should be considered a high com- pliment. The carpets are Bigelow Wiltons, from Sloane's ; the wall papers are rich and harmonious, to which the furni- ture corresponds ; Gorham silverware and Haviland china are used ; the linen was woven to order in France. Not- withstanding this luxury, the rates are moderate : American plan, from $5 per day ; European plan, rooms from $2 per day; meals in the restaurant, a la carte, or at $17.50 by the week. The manager, Mr. James R. Keenan, formerly man- aged the Shoreham, in Washington, whose patronage was drawn from the aristocratic foreign residents of that city and from the best society in New York and other cities. The Virginia. — Also removed from the noise and bustle of the business part of the city, and in a district of private residences, but still within ten minutes' ride of the centres. It was erected and is owned by Leander J. McCormick, a wealthy Chicagoan, who destined it for a fashionable apart- ment house, which idea the location would have warranted, but it was opened in 1891 as a hotel instead. The Virginia is at Rush and Ohio Streets, across the river, but readily ac- cessible to the Fair or to the Post Office. The building is ten stories high, absolutely fire-proof, and admirably con- structed for disposition into suites or single rooms. The Virginia is conducted solely upon the American plan ; rates CHICyiGO AND ITS HOTELS, 283 from $4 per day. It has few transient patrons ; most of its guests are habitues, refined people of means. The Virginia is luxuriously appointed, and is embellished with many val- uable works of art. The cuisine is a feature. It has other features not found at all hotels, in its manner of caring for the petty comforts of guests. Address, Virginia Hotel Co., J. P. Whedon, manager. The Auditorium.— The largest hotel in Chicago, and one of the famous hotels of the country. The title embraces really two hotels under one management. The first is the original structure known under that name, an absolutely fire-proof building covering one and a half acres, standing on Michigan Avenue, Wabash Avenue, and Congress Street, facing the lake. The other building was recently completed, and is on the opposite corner of Michigan Avenue. It is of similar architecture, and they are nearly of a size. A tunnel connects them. The older house is conducted on the Euro- pean plan, $2 to $5 per day ; the newer on the American plan. In both together there are nearly one thousand rooms. The dining-room of the main house, on the tenth floor, affords extended views of the lake and a stretch of Chicago's grand boulevard, Michigan Avenue, as far as the eye can reach. Everything about the Auditorium is on a sumptuous scale, yet the prices are not higher than at other hotels of a corresponding class. The Auditorium is one of the features of Chicago, and it affords Chicagoans a conven- ient '^ point of departure." The top of the Auditorium tower is two hundred and seventy feet above the lake. The two Auditorium buildings are controlled by separate companies, but the one is largely interested in the other, and Mr. R. H. Southgate manages both houses. The Richelieu.— The Richelieu is a refined and home- like hotel. It is a novelty in hotels for Chicago, but not for ^84 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, New York, where we have the Sherman Square, the Hotel de Logerot, and other hotels of the class. The Richelieu enjoys the same advantages of location as the Auditorium and the Victoria — on Michigan Avenue, fronting the lake. It is conducted entirely upon the European plan, and its cuisine and wines are famous. There are one hundred and thirty-nine rooms, ranging in price from $2 per day to $15 for parlor, two bedrooms, and bath. The house is lighted by electricity throughout and has an elevator. The Richelieu is a select house in the full sense of the word, and is especially notable for the courtesy of its proprietor, as well as for the excellence of his table and his wines. The Metropole.— One of the best hotels in Chicago. It is located on the Michigan Boulevard at Twenty-third Street, among the fashionable private residences ; a step from the elevated railroad station, and one block from the Wabash Avenue cable cars, by which the Fair grounds or the business and shopping centres are easily and quickly reached. It is a large fire-proof building of brown stone, seven stories high, and contains about three hundred rooms. The house is so built, with recessed fagades, that the light of day enters directly every room. The rooms are arranged singly or may be thrown into suites. The Metropole is conducted upon both the American and European plans ; from $3 per day by the former — special rates for a protracted stay. In furnishing, decorations, and appointments, the Metropole is luxurious, tasteful, and artistic. Messrs. Miller & Meserve, managers. The Palmer House. — The Palmer House is one of the best known hotels in the United States, and its reputation is admirably sustained. It corresponds in Chicago to the famous Astor House in New York. It is owned by Potter Palmer, the millionnaire, and it is an object of great pride with him to maintain its high character. The Palmer House CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS. 285 occupies the larger part of the block bounded by Wabash Avenue, Monroe Street, Adams Street, and State Street, right in the busy heart of Chicago, convenient and accessible to everywhere. Tourists of the best class, families, and com- mercial travellers, for whom special apartments are set aside, seek the Palmer House. One portion of the house is devoted entirely to families who have lived there for years. The hotel contains seven hundred and fifty rooms. It is conducted upon both the American and European plans ; rates by the former, from $3 per day. Single rooms may be had from $1 per day. The rooms are all comfortably, although not luxuriously, furnished. An excellent restaurant, with moderate tariff, is attached to the house. Special announcement is made that rates during the Fair period will not be advanced, but two guests occupying the same room will be expected to pay each the regular price of the room. The stranger may rely upon courteous treatment and consideration. The Palmer House is not modern, but it is provided with all the latest appointments, with the exception of electric lights. There is an air of plainness and honesty about the Palmer House that at once commends it. The walls are hung with some notable paintings. The Lexington Hotel. — On Michigan Boulevard at Twenty-second Street, one block below the Metropole, and having the same accessibility. It was opened in the fall of 1892, and it is advertised as being *^ absolutely fire-proof." It has five hundred rooms, and is conducted upon both the American and European plans, the management having a preference for the former. Rates from $4 per day. For the Fair period higher prices will be charged. The rooms are arranged en suite, forming an apartment with a small private hallway, but they may be rented singly. The Lexington is intended for people of means and good taste. The circular of the hotel speaks of it as ^' the nearest strictly first-class hotel to the Fair grounds ; " but this is a 286 CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, mistake — the Lakota is nearer to the Fair grounds. The lessee of the Lexington, E. A. Bacheldor, is reputed to be rich, and money has not been stinted to make the house desirable for visitors. Restaurant and caf^ are attached to the house. The Wellington is a '' down-town " hotel of excellent report, at the corner of Wabash Avenue and Jackson Street, conducted on the European plan, with first-class restaurants attached. Rates from $2 per day. It is an agreeable, quiet house, in the busy district. Proprietors, Gage Hotel Co.; Albert S. Gage, president and manager. — The Victoria enjoys excellent patronage. It is near the Auditorium, on Michigan Avenue at Van Buren Street. American plan only ; rates from $3 per day. A family hotel, in a choice location. Proprietor, J. M. Lee ; associate and manager, E. A. Whip- ple. — The Great Northern Fire-proof Hotel is op- posite the Post Office, fronting on Dearborn Street. Strictly European plan ; rooms from $3 per day. Its three restau- rants are a feature. A fourteen-story building, modern in all of its appointments and beautiful in many. Caters largely to a business patronage, but has many elaborately furnished suites. Proprietors, Alvin Hulbert and Wm. S. Eden.— The Grand Pacific, on the opposite side of the Post Office, is a house for commercial men and transient guests. American plan only ; from $4 per day. A plain, business-like hotel of large size and good repute. Near the Fair Grounds. — The remaining hotels to be mentioned here are not " World's Fair hotels," as a class of more or less temporary structures is called, but hotels of the first class, having locations near the Exposition grounds. Members of the celebrated Leland family of hotel-keepers manage some of the best, and that name should be of itself sufficient recommendation. Warren F. Leland, who has had long experience as a hotel proprietor in Chicago, will con- CHICAGO AND ITS HOTELS, 287 duct the Chicago Beach Hotel, a new, attractive and substantial brick building, situated directly on the lake shore, at Fifty-first Street Boulevard, a stone's throw from the Illinois Central Railroad. All outside rooms. American and European plans ; by the former, $5 per day and up- ward. — The Renfost is a beautiful, permanent structure of nearly five hundred rooms, located on Cottage Grove Ave- nue, facing Washington Park. It is conducted by Lewis Le- land, formerly of the Sturtevant House, New York, for a select class of tourists and families. — Warren Leland, Jr., of Long Branch fame, and the present popular manager of the Oglethorpe, at Brunswick, Ga., has the Ingram Hotel, on Sixtieth Street, facing the entrance to the Fair grounds. It has distinct advantages of location, and many features and appointments desirable in a hotel for tourists and strangers. It is conducted upon the European plan, with the best cui- sine and service attainable. Rates for single rooms, from $2 per day; double rooms, from $3. — Charles E. Leland, who for many years kept the Clarendon, at Saratoga, manages The World's Inn, at Sixtieth Street and Madison Avenue, near the Fair grounds. — The Hyde Park Hotel, on Fifty- first Street Boulevard and Lake Avenue, is not far from the Chicago Beach Hotel. It was huilt before the Fair was pro- posed, and it is patronized by families and permanent guests. American plan only, except during the Fair period. Rates, $3 and upward ; higher rates during the Exposition. A quiet, well-conducted family hotel. Proprietors, Messrs. Charles F. Milligan & Co. RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. It is impossible for the young people of this generation to fully appreciate the luxury of the age in which they are liv- ing. What wonderful strides in facilities for railway travel- ling, for example, have been made within the past five and twenty years, or say, even, within the last decade ! I begin to fear that I am no longer young. That I am growing reminiscent is of itself proof that I am growing old, but I cannot help recalling the discomforts of railway travel- ling which existed before the existence of a Pullman sleeper or a Wagner drawing-room car, any more than I can forget a through trip which I once made froni Cleveland to New York when I was '^ in my teens." Some of the compartments in a first-class English railway carriage are cosey and comfortable enough for a short jour- ney, but one of the most luxurious cars I ever travelled in was a new Wagner palace car which was attached, one day last summer, to '' the 3.30 Saratoga Express," on the New York Central Railway ; and I say this after having tried '' the Oriental Express " between Paris and Vienna, the Pull- man between Milan and Basle, and the celebrated ^'Flying Scotchman " between London and Edinburgh. This Wag- ner was as perfect in its way for day travel, as are the Pull- man cars of the justly famed *^ Florida Special" (vestibuled train) of the Pennsylvania Railroad for night or through travel, and this is saying a very great deal. The car under notice was also vestibuled. It was strongly and stoutly built, and was set on spiral springs which carried their great burden with the greatest ease, allowing the car to swing freely with a pleasant motion and little noise. The interior woodwork was of polished mahogany, the floor car- 288 ^RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA, 289 peted with Wilton, and the upper sides and ceiHng tastefully, not gaudily, decorated. There is no sitting close together, as in the cars abroad ; each passenger has a separate chair. It is a revolving arm-chair, plush covered, and over the back of the chair there is a linen **tidy," — a clean tidy. The chairs — no, the seats — on ^^ the other side " are also covered, but the covers are often anything but spotless. How often they are removed it is not easy to tell; all the ^^ tidies " in a Wagner car are whipped off every day. There are brass hooks for hats and wraps, instead of racks, and a low shelf which may be used for umbrellas or canes. Each passenger has a foot-stool, and I am sorry to add that the company find it necessary to furnish to each .passenger a cuspadore. It shines like new silver, to be sure, but still the suggestion is not a pleasant one, and it is a feature to which Americans cannot point with pride. The windows are not ten by twelve inches : they measure two feet eight inches each way, and the panes are of heavy plate glass. To each opening there are double windows, for winter service. The shades, for utility, are of dark blue ; and above these, for ornament, are old-gold satin-damask lambrequins. For ornamentation also there is at either end of the car a large mirror with silvered pole, and curtains to match the window drapery. No knee robes are needed in this country for railway travel : Wagner cars are heated by steam. Do you want air without dust ? the porter will raise the window and insert a wire screen as well as a cinder deflector. Are your hands soiled ? step into the lavatory. You won't find there a tiny metal basin, but a marble washstand and bowl, and over this a tap with ample supply of water, plenty of towels, clean comb and brush, etc., iced water at your hand. But you need not stir from your seat for a glass of water ; touch an electric bell while seated in your chair, and, as if by magic, a sable attendant will be at your side with a glass of cold water, or something which you may deem more re- freshing. Nor need you leave the car for a quiet smoke ; 290 RAILWAY TRAVELLING IN AMERICA. at one end there is a comfortably furnished smoking-room, with all that the title implies. The cost of such a car, so the Wagner conductor in- formed me, is about fifteen thousand dollars. If you require anything more luxurious for day travel than one of these new Wagner palace cars, you will have to wait until somebody racks his brain to add an additional contriv- ance. But you may have to wait until the end of the cen- tury. SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 189^. INDEX TO CHAPTERS. I. — Hudson Highland Range. II. — Shawangunk Region. HI. — Catskill Region. IV. — Otsego Region. V. — Central Lakes — Niagara. VI. — Saratoga Springs. VII. — Lake George Region. VIII. — Adirondack Region. IX. — Green Mountain Region. X. — White Mountains — Maine Lakes. XI. — Berkshire Hills — Connecticut Hills. XII. — New Jersey Highlands. XIII. — Highlands of the Delaware. XIV. — Appalachian Region of Pennsylvania, West Virginia AND North Carolina. XV. — New Jersey Shore — Staten Island. XVI.— Long Island. XVH. — Connecticut Shore. XVIII. — Narragansett Bay, South Massachusetts Shore and Islands. XIX. — Eastern Shore. XX.— The West. 392 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. I. HUDSON HIGHLAND RANGE. The range of mountains obliquely crossing the Hudson and known as the Hudson Highlands, forms part of the great chain distinguished as the Blue R-idge in Pennsylvania and the Green Mountains in Vermont ; the name may be applied to all that part of the chain which falls within the State of New York. The Hudson enters the Highlands at Cornwall (fifty-six miles from New York), and leaves them at Peekskill (forty-two miles). At about two-thirds the distance from Peekskill to Cornwall, on the west side, is West Point, famous for its view and as the site of the United States Military Academy. Opposite West Point is Garrison station, where all trains of the Hudson River road stop, and where there is a steam ferry. Cranston's and other places on the west bank are reached by the West Shore road (Franklin and West Forty-second streets). The Albany morning boats and the Mary Powell make landings at West Point, Cornwall and Newburg. — Lake Mahopac, the largest of the beautiful lakes of the Highland region, is accessible in an hour and a half from New York by Golden's Bridge branch of the Harlem railroad, or by the New York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Sixth avenue elevated road. — Greenwood lake, on the western limit of this region, lies partly in New Jersey, at an elevation of seven hundred and fifty feet ; reached by the New York and Greenwood Lake railroad (Cham^- bers and Twenty- third street ferries). — The hills that border the Hudson below the Highlands may be regarded as spurs or foot- hills of the mountains ; they are accessible on the east bank by the Hudson River railroad (Grand Central Depot), and by the New York City and Northern railroad, connecting with the Manhattan elevated road ; on the west bank by the Northern New Jersey (Chambers and West Twenty-third streets), which comes out on the river at Piermont (twenty-seven miles), and by the West Shore railroad (Franklin and West Forty-second streets), which comes out on the river at Haverstraw (thirty- three miles). All the more impor- tant places on either bank below the Highlands are touched by steam-boats that leave every afternoon (except Sunday) from foot of Harrison and West Twenty-second streets. GARRLSON— The Highland House.— On a plateau 300 feet above and half a mile from Garrison station on the Hudson River rail- road ; one and a quarter hours from New York ; connection with SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 293 West Point by steam ferry ; outluoks and towers on South Redoubt Mountains, 800 to 1,000 feet above the river ; lawn of twenty acres well shaded ; latest sanitary improvements ; water from mountain springs ; lawn tennis ; bowling and billiard rooms ; livery and boarding stables ; stage meets all trains ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open in May. WEST POINT — Cranston's. — A station on the West Shore rail- road, a short distance below West Point ; a famous hotel situated on a bold promontory, commanding a grand river and mountain view ; elevator, gas, halls heated by steam, open fire-places in all rooms ; baths on all the floors ; four cottages on the grounds luxu- riously fitted up ; livery at moderate prices ; boarding stables with night watchman ; skilful chef de cuisine and well-disciplined waiters. CORNWALL — Elmer House.— Five minutes' walk from landing and the West Shore railroad station ; on a bluff two hundred and fifty feet above the river ; family hotel ; electric lights ; good stab- ling ; receives one hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $2.50 to $3 ; by the week, $12 to $20. Special rates for the season. Open from May to December. Proprietor (for the last 20 years) : Wil- liam B. Elmer, Cornwall-on-Hudson, Orange county, N. Y. GREENW^OOD LAKE — Brandon House. — On a spur of the mountain jutting into the lake, with lawns sloping to the shore on either side ; gi-ounds of fifty acres ; shaded walks and picturesque rambles ; water from mountain spring ; complete new sanitary ar- rangements ; telegraph and telephone ; two hours and fifteen minutes from New York ; two express trains daily. Prices : — By the day. $2.50 to $3; by the week, special rates; special rates for June. Proprietor : D. Edgar Close, Greenwood Lake. Orange county, N. Y QUAKER HILL— MizzEN Top.— Three ini)es from Pawling on the Harlem R. R. ; elevation one thousand three hundred feet, af- fording far-reaching and varied mountain views ; gas, electric bells, bath-rooms, steam-heating apparatus and spring water ; thorough sanitary system ; billiard room and bowling alley ; an " amusement hall " and ladies' billiard rooms ; music for the season ; wide ve- randas ; hotel stage runs morning and afternoon to Hamersly lake, where there are row and sail boats and good fishing ; stabling and 294 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. livery ; receives two hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; special rates for June. PAWLING — DuTCHER House. — Sixty-three miles from New York by the Harlem road, a few minutes from the station ; elevation seven hundred feet ; substantial building with Queen Anne cot- tages ; large rooms ; hot and cold baths ; electric bells ; water from mountain springs ; grounds of twelve acres ; opera house, with stage appointments ; daily concerts ; receives two hundred guests. Address, Dutcher House, Pawling, Duchess county, N. Y. YONKERS— The Glenwood.— At Glenwood, on the bank of the river, thirty-five minutes from New York, via N. Y. C. and H. R. R., of Northern Railroad ; convenient summer residence for families ; bar ; modern improvements ; boating, fishing, bowling ; receives sixty guests. Prices : — By the week, for single person, $10 to $12, for two, $16 to $20 ; children, half rate. SPUYTEN DUYVIL— Brentford Hall.— The first railway station on the Hudson river road above Manhattan Island, at the junction of Spuyten Duyvil Creek with the Hudson ; house situated two hundred feet above the river, of which it commands beautiful views ; within twenty-two minutes of Grand Central depot ; exten- sive, well shaded grounds ; tennis and croquet; delightful drives. Prices : — By the week, $10 to $15. LAKE MAHOPAC — Thompson's Hotel. — On the southern shore of the lake, commanding a beautiful view of its islands and wooded hills ; large and comfortably fitted up rooms in suites for families ; perfect drainage ; billiard-room, bowling-alley ; steam yacht, sail and row boats ; telegraph ofiice ; receives four hundred guests. Open from June to October. Prices : — By the day, $3.50; by the week, $15 to $25. Proprietor, Emerson Clark, Lake Mahopac, N. Y. LAKE MAHOPAC— Dean House.— On a shaded lawn of eight acres on the west side of the lake, sloping to the wharves and boat- house ; bathing-house, handsome boats ; billiard-room, bowling-al- ley ; stabling ; milk and vegetables from the hotel farm ; furnished cottage to let, with board at hotel. Open about June i. Prices : — By the day, $3.50; by the week, $15 to $30. Proprietor, A, H, Dean, Lake Mahopac, N. Y. SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 295 II. SHAWANGUNK RECxION. Under this name may be included that elevated plateau which, touching on the Hudson between Rondout and Poughkeepsie, ex- tends from the Wallkill Valley on the east to the western descent of the Blue Hills beyond the upper waters of the Susquehanna, embracing Sullivan and parts of Ulster and Delaware counties. It is crossed by the Shawangunk Mountains, and west of them by a wilderness of hills and valleys which, in primitive savagery, may almost take rank with the Adirondacks. It is a favored haunt of sportsmen. Clubs of sportsmen have purchased lakes and tracts ot land, and are doing much to preserve the fish and game. The southwestern portion of this region is crossed by the Erie railway, branches of which extend from Middletown to Pine Bush in Ulster county, and from Port Jervis to Monticello in Sullivan county. The central portion is penetrated by the New York, Ontario and Western Railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) ; from Campbell Hall a branch of this road runs through the Wallkill Valley to Rondout-Kingston on the Hudson ; from Summitville a branch extends eight miles to Ellenville, Sullivan county ; from Walten a branch extends seventeen miles to Delhi, Delaware county. The villages and hamlets thus brought within easy reach lie at an elevation of from 700 to 2,200 feet above tide water. LAKE MINNEWASKA— Cliff House and the Wildmere.— A lake of very picturesque environment, at an elevation of one thou- sand eight hundred feet, on the most easterly range of the Shawan- gunk Mountain region, ten miles by stage from New Paltz on the Wallkill Valley road, accessible via Kingston on the West Shore road, or via Campbell Hall on the New York, Ontario and Western road. The Cliff House, standing one hundred and fifty feet above the lake on the east, commands a view extending from the Hudson Highlands on the south to the Catskills, and up the Hudson river valley to the Lake George region on the north, and from the line of the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east and north- east, to ranges of the Shawangfunk Hills on the west ; it receives two hundred and fifty guests. The Wildmere House, on the ridge west of the lake, is somewhat larger than the former and commands similar views ; it is still more recent in construction ; lighted with gas, halls heated by furnaces, the rooms having open fire-places for burning the resinous mountain pme ; private balconies. The 296 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. region surrounding the lake is overgrown with pine and hemlock, and remains in its primitive condition, with the exceptions that roads have been opened to the various waterfalls, caverns, preci- pices, etc., with which it abounds. Both houses are temperance houses, and in the management certain restrictions are imposed which have secured for them a select patronage. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $3, according to the season ; by the week, in June, $ii to $14; July and August, $15 to $20 ; after September i, $14 to $16; modified rates for double rooms. Proprietor, Alfred H. Smiley. ELLEN VIJLLE— Mr. Meenahga House.— Two miles by stage from Ellenville — a village of four thousand inhabitants, termmus of branch of the New York, Ontario and Western road ; elevation one thousand five hundred feet ; two hundred acres of wild mountain land ; view bounded on the north by the Catskill ranges ; enlarged since last season ; wide hallways, veranda one hundred and thirty feet long; a "library building," well supplied with books, maga- zines, etc. ; bowling alley and children's playground ; gas, steam heat and open fires ; electric bells in all rooms ; spring water ; bath- rooms ; a strict temperance house ; six furnished cottages rented for the season at $ioo to $200, with table board at $8; receives one hundred and seventy-five guests. Prices : — By the day, $2. 50 and $3; by the week, $12 to $25 ; double rooms, $18 to $35. Pro- prietor, U. E. Terwilliger, Ellenville, Ulster county, N. Y. GREENFIELD— Windsor Lake House.— Five miles by stage from Ellenville and about three and a half hours from New York ; (me hundred and twenty acres of mountain land, with fifty acres under cultivation ; elevation one thousand five hundred feet, over- looking the lake ; rebuilt and enlarged since last season ; all mod- ern improvements, large parlors, broad halls, wide stairs ; baths with hot and cold water on every floor ; sanitary plumbing ; open fire-places ; broad piazzas and balconies ; pure water from a moun- tain spring ; table supplied from the farms ; an extensive lawn, with lawn tennis, archery and croquet grounds ; billiards and bowl- ing; stages to and from depot; good livery; receives two hun- dred guests. Open June 15 to October i. Prices : — By the day, for June, September and (October, $2 ; for July and August, $2.50 ; by the week, single rooms, $10 to $15 ; double rooms, $16 to $25 ; special rates to families, or for the season. Address Greenfield, Ulster county, N. Y. SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 297 LIBERTY — Hotel Wawonda. — Situated on an elevation over- looking Liberty village ; two thousand feet above sea level ; one mile from station ; wide verandas and private balconies ; bath-rooms, gas, electric bells and all the conveniences and elegancies of first- class hotels ; receives two hundred guests. III. THE CATSKILL REGION. The most easterly range of the Catskill Mountains lies ten miles west of the Hudson river, and runs parallel with it for a distance of twenty miles, its southern limit being about ninety miles from the mouth of the river. The width of the Catskill Mountain region is about seventy-five miles. It is drained on the west by the head- waters of the Delaware river, and by the Schoharie creek, which runs in a northwesterly direction to the Mohawk. It includes por- tions of Greene, Ulster and Delaware counties. The mountains are approached from Rondout on the Hudson, eighty-eight miles from New York, and from Catskill on the Hudson, one hundred and nine miles. From Rondout the Ulster and Delaware Railroad penetrates the mountain region in a northwesterly direction to Hobart, seventy-eight miles. At Phoenicia, on this road, a branch of fourteen miles, called the Stony Clove Railroad, extends to Hun- ter on Schoharie creek, and by means of a minor branch of four miles gives approach to the Kaaterskill House and other large hotels of the range that faces the Hudson. These hotels are also approached by the Catskill Mountain Railroad, which runs from Catskill Landing to Cairo, a branch running southward from Cairo Junction to Palenville, at the base of the mountain range, whence an Otis elevating railroad has been laid up the mountain, giving direct access to the old Catskill Mountain House. Rondout and Catskill, the two points of departure for the mountains, are accessible by the West Shore road (Franklin street and West Forty- second street) ; or by ferry from stations on the Hudson River road ; or by Albany day boats, leaving Vestry street at half-past eight, and Twentv-second street at nine A. M. JEFFERSON HEIGHTS— Grant House.— On a plateau three hundred feet high, one mile from Catskill village and the West Shore station, the view embracing the valleys of the Catskill and Kaater- 298 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, skill, Catskill Mountains and the Hudson valley ; electric bells, gas, hot and cold water baths on every floor ; billiards and bowling ; a pleasure ground of thirty acres sloping down to the creek ; orches- tral concerts twice a day and for the dance in the evening ; re- ceives three hundred guests. Open May 30 until late in September. Prices: — By the day, $3; by the week, single rooms, $12 to $20; double rooms, $20 to $30 ; special rates for the season. Reduced rates for June. SUMMIT MT.— The New Grand Hotel.— On Summit Mountain, at an elevation of two thousand five hundred feet ; a few minutes' walk from the station, on the Ulster and Delaware Railroad, thirty- eight miles from Rondout ; through parlor cars by the West Shore Road ; four and a half hours from New York ; surroundings include Old Storm King (four thousand feet), the Slide, the Wittenberg and the Cornell, inclosing Big Indian Valley ; in Queen Anne style, with frontage of six hundred and fifty feet ; wide verandas, palatial salon ; bedrooms, 17 x 19 feet, with ample wardrobes ; suites with private baths ; dining-room with mountain view on two sides ; elevators, steam heat, electric bells ; orchestral con- certs twice daily ; receives four hundred guests. Open June to October. Prices: — By the day, $5.00; by the week, single rooms, $21 to $28; double rooms, $42 to $60; special rates for suites of rooms with private bath ; rates reduced for July. Manager, S. J. Cornell. SOUTH MOUNTAIN— Hotel Kaaterskill.— On the summit of Kaaterskill (South Mountain), at an elevation of three thousand feet, commanding the view of the Hudson river valle^v^ ; drive of a few minutes from Kaaterskill station on the Kaaterskill branch of the Stony Clove Railroad ; gas, elevators, electric bells, steam heat ; baths on every floor ; suites with private baths ;. ball-room, with stage appointments ; orchestral music ; bilUard room, bowling-alley ; separate cottage building for invalids and families desiring seclusion and quiet ; telegraph ; livery with good saddle horses. Prices in July, by the week $21 and upwards. Address, Kaaterskill P. O., N. V KAATERSKILL FALLS— Laurel House.— At the head of the cascades, one of which is a fall of two hundred feet ; within three hundred yards of the Laurel House station on the Kaaterskill branch of the Stony Clove Road ; hotel stage meets all trains at SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 299 the station, also at the Palenville station on the Catskill Mountain Railroad from Catskill village ; verandas six hundred feet in length ; gas, electric bells ; bath-rooms on every floor ; pure spring water ; receives three hundred guests. Open from June 15 to October i. CATSKILL MOUNTAIN HOUSE— Short stage drive from Mountain House station on the railway from Catskill village, or di- rectly accessible by the new Elevating Railroad from the foot of the Mountain ; on a ledge of rock at an elevation of two thousand two hundred and fifty feet, the view bounded by the Hudson Highlands on the south, the Berkshire Hills and Green Mountains on the east, and the Adirondacks on the north ; park of three thousand acres intersected by drives and footpaths ; water from mountain springs ; bath-rooms, approved plumbing ; receives four hundred guests. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $14 to $24, according to the season ; special rates for a prolonged stay. Proprietors, Catskill Mountain House Co., Catskill, N. Y. IV. OTSEGO LAKE RECxION. This highland, which forms the watershed of the Susquehanna, lies west of the Catskill region and has an elevation of 1,200 to 1,700 feet, being the highest plateau in the State of New York, ex- cept that crossed by the Adirondack ranges. The surface is picturesquely broken up into hills of moderate elevation. At the northern limit lies Lake Canadarago, at the southern Lake Otsego. The latter, to which the surrounding hills give a varied and beau- tiful shore line, is nine miles long and from one to one and one- half wide. Cooperstown, which derives its name from the novelist whose " Leather Stocking " tales have given the place celebrity, lies at the south end of the lake and is ninety-one miles from Albany, from which it is reached by the Susquehanna division of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s railway and Cooperstown branch without change.— Lake Canadarago, five miles long by two in width, lies fourteen miles northwest of Lake Otsego, at an eleva- tion of one thousand seven hundred feet, amid an environment of wooded hills. Riclifield Springs, one mile from the lake, is reached by the New York Central railroad to Utica, thence by tlie Delaware, 300 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. Lackawanna and Western railway to Richfield Junction, thence by branch road, without change. A four-horse tally-ho coach makes daily trips between Cooperstown and Richfield Springs. RICHFIELD SPRINGS — Hotel Earlington. — Delightfully situated, with charming outlook over park ; large rooms, single and en suite ; large open fire-places in the ladies' parlor and grand hall ; elevator, cafe and ladies' and gentlemen's billiard-room ; bowling alley and shooting gallery ; shaded tennis courts ; electric bells, gas, new sanitary plumbing throughout ; bath-rooms on each floor ; vStubblebine's orchestra of twelve pieces ; branch of Dickel riding school ; superior stabling accommodations ; elaborate cuisine and thoroughly disciplined service ; the four-horse coach " Earlington " makes the circuit of the lake every afternoon ; receives five hundred guests. Open June 30 to September 15. Prices : — By the day, for transient guests, $4. Owner and manager, Eugene M. Earle, who may be seen at the Hotel Bristol. Fifth avenue and Forty- second street, NeM^ York. RICHFIELD SPRINGS— Davenport House.— On high gi^ound opposite the Sulphur Spring and the bath house, its front rooms over- looking the park; broad veranda, one hundred and fifty feet in length, shaded by elms and maples ; electric bells ; thorough drain- age ; servants' quarters in a separate building ; receives two hun- dred guests. Open June i to October i. Special rates for June and September. Address Richfield Springs, Otsego County, N. Y. SHARON SPRINGS— Pavilion Hotel.— In an upland valley, elevation one thousand one hundred feet, surrounded by hills ; on a branch of the Albany and vSusquehanna railroad ; famous for its sulphur springs, for the utilization of whose water extensive bath- mg houses have been erected with every appHance for inhalation, douches, etc., under medical direction. The Pavihon Hotel is the largest in the place and C(msists of a main building and several groups of cottages, in ornamented grounds of fifty acres, command- ing a view extending beyond the M<^hawk valley to the hills around Lake George, eighty miles distant ; plans and appointments es- pecially adapted to families with young children ; detached play- house for children ; separate bowling and billiard hall exclusively for guests ; afternoon and evening concerts ; cottages and cottage SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 801 flats at fixed rental; baths, bells, etc., througlioiit ; receives five hundred guests. Prices: — By the week, $15 to $21. Proprietors, John H. Gardner & Son, Sharon vSprings, N. Y. SHARON SPRINGS— Sharon House.— On Main street, facing the Sulphur Baths, and commanding a view of the adjacent forests ; during the winter the house has been thoroughly renovated, and Dew furniture and new mattresses have been added ; good livery m connection with the hotel ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Prices: — By the day, $2.50; by the week, $12 to $16. Proprietor, Thomas K. Sharp. CENTRAL LAKES, N. Y.— NIAGARA. The Lakes of Central New York, having a general direction north and south, lie in the valleys of the hills that form the exten- sion of the mountains of Western Pennsylvania. Their waters flow northward, and are tributary to the Seneca River, which empties into Lake Ontario at Oswego. Skaneateles, the most easterly of these lakes, lies at an elevation of eight hundred and sixty-five feet above the sea level ; Canandaigua, the most westerly, at an eleva- tion of six hundred and sixty-eight feet. Between these lie Owasco (seven hundred and fifty-eight feet), Cayuga and Seneca (four hun- dred and forty-one feet), and Keuka (seven hundred and eighteen feet). The region abounds in precipitous water courses and glens, famous among which isWatkins Glen, an ascending series of gorges between two mountains, thirteen miles in length, situated at the head or southern limit of Seneca T>ake. LAKE SKANEATELES — The Pack wood. — Delightfully situ- ated on shore of Skaneateles lake ; two steamers on lake ; sailing, rowing and fishmg ; good livery and beautiful drives ; house in per- fect sanitary condition. Prices : — By the day, $2 ; special rates to families. NIAGARA FALLS— Clifton House.— On the Canada bank, fronting the park reservations, all the rooms and balconies affording full view of the falls ; appointments and management of the first 302 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, order ; perfect drainage ; air cooled by the spray of the falls ; hotel stages and porters meet all trains at Niagara Falls station on the American side ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. Prices :— By the day, $3 to $4 ; by the week, special rates. Proprietor, G. M. Colbum, Niagara Falls, N. Y. VI. SARATOGA SPRINGS. The most frequented inland resort in America. Its season lasts from June to October. The village has a population of about twelve thousand, but in the height of the season it adds to this number not less than thirty thousand visitors. It is one hundred and eighty-two miles north of New York, and is reached by the West Shore or the Hudson River railroads to Albany, thence by Saratoga and Champlain division of -the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's Railroad, without change ; or by boat to Albany, thence as above. UNITED STATES HOTEL.— Built in the form of an irregular pentagon, enclosing an inner court and including in all an area of seven acres ; six stories high, with nine hundred and seventeen guest chambers ; divided into five sections by fire-proof walls ; fire hy- drants in each section and on every floor; ten staircases; two elevators ; dining-room, 212 feet by 52 feet ; ball-room, 102 feet by 53 feet, 26 feet in height ; verandas in all 2,300 feet in length, en- circUng the inner court, where are shade trees, fountains, statuary, winding walks, and where grand morning concerts are given by Stub's orchestra ; a " cottage wing'* arranged in suites for families ; with private bath-rooms ; private table when desired. Open from June 22 ; always remains open to October i. Prices : — By the day, $5, favorable arrangements with families by the week up to August I. Proprietors, Tompkins Gage & Perry. GRAND UNION HOTEL.— One of the most magnificent of sum- mer hotels, with a frontage of two thousand four hundred feet ; built about a central court which is beautifully laid out ; the rotunda, into which the main entrance leads, is eighty feet in diameter and SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 808 rises to the top of the building with balconies at each of the five stories ; to the left are reception-rooms and the grand salon, noted for the beauty of its decorations and furnishings ; in the great dining-room one thousand guests may be seated ; a beautiful ball- room ; three elevators and broad stairways ; every convenience and luxury of appointment that modern ingenuity has devised. Prices :— By the day, $5 and upwards ; special rates for September and by the season. WINDSOR HOTEL.— Central, but retired, on the brow of the hill, overlooking Congress Park, fronting on Broadway and William street, adjacent to the famous Pompeian Villa ; a select family house, having in the quiet elegance of all its appointments more the character of a private home than of a public hotel ; rooms single and in suites with private bath ; scientific plumbing ; steam beat ; electric lights and bells ; wide balconies to every floor ; choice cuisine and refined service ; servants exclusively white ; late dinners. Prices : — By the day, $5 and upwards. CONGRESS HALL.— On Broadway, adjoining Congress Park occupying the block between the Congress and Hathorn springs ; fa9ade four hundred and seventy feet in length ; veranda twenty feet wide, two hundred and fifty feet long ; five stories in height ; commanding a view of the most brilliant portion of Saratoga ; two wings, three hundred feet long, enclosing a beautiful garden ; sub- stantially built of brick and stone in seven fire-proof compartments, with heavy iron doors on each floor ; elevators, gas, hot and cold water ; bath-rooms on every floor ; water from springs on the grounds ; separate concert and ball-room, connected with the house by a suspension bridge ; daily morning and evening full orchestral concerts ; semi-weekly hops ; receives several hundred guests. Open June to October i. Prices : — By the day, $3, $3.50 and $4 ; special rates by the week. DR. S. E. STRONG'S SANITARIUM.— On Circular street, within a few steps of the principal springs, hotels and the park ; ex- tensive improvements made recently, including a decorated recep- tion hall, electric bells, a passenger elevator, leading to a sun parlor, which opens out upon a roof promenade ; steam heat and open fire- place, making it specially attractive to the delicate and valetudina- 304 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. rian ; massage, Turkish, Russian, Roman, electro-thermal and other baths, as well as the usual appointments of first-class hotels; spacious parlors, in which musical and other entertainmeuts are given ; Delsarte system of physical culture ; gymnasium and spacious verandas ; frequented by a cultivated circle. Open all the year. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $2.50; by the week, $10 to $15 ; ten per cent, discount to clergymen and physicians. Pro- prietor, Dr. S. E. Strong. MT. McGregor — hotel Balmoral. — On the southernmost spur of the Adirondack Mountains, ten and one-half miles from Sara- toga, from which it is reached by trains every hour ; elevation one thousand three hundred feet ; all modern improvements ; open fire- places ; verandas twenty to forty feet wide ; billiards, bowling alley, art gallery ; waters brought daily from the Saratoga springs ; three lakes stocked with fish and supplied with boats ; telegraph office and daily stock quotations ; free passes to and from Saratoga to hotel guests ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. VII. LAKE GEORGE REGION. Lake George, or the Horicon, famous for the beauty of its envi- ronment, lies on the southeastern border of the Adirondack region, in the midst of wooded hills, with mountains in the dis- tance. Is thirty-six miles long, three-quarters of a mile to four miles wide, and in places four hundred feet deep. Its waters, flow- ing northward into Lake Champlain, are tributary to the St. Law- rence. Caldwell, a small town at its head or southern extremity, is reached from Albany by the Saratoga line of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Baldwin, at the north end, is reached from Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain by a branch of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railroad. Steam- ])oats ply between Caldwell and Baldwin, making two trips a day. For routes see preceding chapter. LA^It (iE(M<( i 10— Fori William Henry Hotel.— A house of largf5^ proportions and fine appointments, with porticoes affording SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 305 views of the lake and the mountains ; recent improvements include new docks and swimming baths, tennis grounds ; new bowling-alley and billiard-tables, elevator, new dining room, new cottages ; electric lights, etc. ; water from mountain springs ; perfect drainage ; full orchestra ; choice cuisine. Special rates for families. Proprietor and manager, Wm. Noble. New York office, Hotel Grenoble, Fifty-seventh street and Seventh avenue. LAKE GEORGE— The Sagamore.— On Green Island, a wooded island of about seventy-five acres, off the west shore, ten miles north of Caldwell, connected by a bridge with the mamland ; built a few years ago and having the picturesque look of a cottage-like grouping of buildings, or a rambling old English manor house ; large music hall and ball-room connected with the main building ; Edison electric lights, electric bells, elevator ; water from mountain springs ; tennis grounds ; billiard-room ; bowling ; sail and row boats, steam yacht, horses and carriages ; telegraph office ; steamer from Caldwell on arrival of evening train ; receives four hundred guests. Open June to October i. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $17.50 to $25 ; reduced rates from June i to June 20 ; special rates for the season. Proprietor, Myron O. Brown, Bolton Land- ing, Lake George, N. Y. LAKE GEORGE — Marion House. — On the west shore, six miles from Caldwell, three hundred feet from the lake, the grounds ex- tending to the shore ; surrounded by a grove ; wide verandas ; billiard-room, tennis ground, steam yacht and boats ; gas, electric bells, elevator ; orchestral music morning and evening ; telegraph office ; livery ; receives four hundred guests. Prices :— By the week, $14 to $25. LAKE GEORGE— Pearl Point House.— A steamboat landing on the east shore, twelve miles from Caldwell, in one of the most beautiful parts of the lake ; all steamers land at the wharf ; large fleet of sail and row boats ; vegetables and dairy products from hotel farm ; telegraph office ; receives one hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. Prices : By the day, $3.50 ; by the week, $12 to $20. 306 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, VIII. ADIRONDACK REGION— THE ST. LAWRENCE. The 7}iassif of the Adirondack region has a general elevation of one thousand five hundred to two thousand feet, and an extent of about fifteen thousand square miles. It is crossed by five mountain ranges. The number of peaks is said to be five hundred, the highest of which, Mount Marcy, rises five thousand three hundred and thirty-seven feet above the sea level. In the valleys there are more than one thousand lakes, variously connected by streams, whose waters feed Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence or the Hudson. Being thus drained and intersected by watercourses on every side, it is a region of a peculiarly wild and broken character. It may be entered from the east by stage routes from Westport, Port Kent and Plattsburg — stations on the Champlain division of the Delaware and Hudson Canal Company's railways, a branch of which extends from Plattsburg to Ausable in the mountains. From the south and west it is entered by the Adirondack division of the same road, which runs northward from Saratoga to North Creek (fifty-seven miles), and when completed will extend to Ogdensburg, on the St. Lawrence. At North Creek stages connect with Blue Mountain Lake and with the Long Lake and Raquette Lake region. An intermediate route is that by the way of Schroon Lake. •^Schroon Lake is ten miles long and two miles wide, and is bor- dered on the North by lofty summits ; it is reached by a stage drive of six miles from Riverside station on the Saratoga and Adiron- dack railroad. From Pottersville, the terminus of the stage route, steamers ply to Schroon village and other points on the lake. — The Lake of Luzerne, on the southern limits of the Adirondack high- land, lies at the junction of the upper Hudson and the Sacondaga Rivers, at an elevation of seven hundred feet ; it is twenty-two miles north of Saratoga, from which it is reached by the Saratoga and Adirondack railroad (Hadley station). — The ''Thousand Is- lands " in the St. Lawrence River extend from Cape Vincent at the foot of Lake Ontario to Ogdensburg, a distance of forty miles. Alexandria Bay, midway between these points, is accessible by steamer from Cape Vincent, to which the New York, Ontario and Western railway (Franklin and West Forty-second streets) run Pullman sleepers without change ; or by steamers plying between Clayton and Ogdensburg, the termini of the Utica and Black River railroad, which connects at Utica with the New York Cen- tral. From Rome on the latter road branches the Rome, Water- town and Ogdensburg railroad. SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 30? SCHROON LAKE — Leland House and Cottages.— At Schroon Lake village, near the head of the lake, with view of the lake and the neighboring mountains ; verandas three hundred and forty-six feet in length, and an observatory one hundred and seven feet high ; two cottages of twelve rooms each ; grounds, extending to the lake, shaded with evergreens ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Open from June 15 to October i. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $3.50 ; by the week, $12.50 to $21 ; special rates by the season. ALEXANDRIA BAY — Hotel Westminster. — In Westmmster Park, comprising two hundred and twelve acres of land, at eastern end of Wells Island ; park nearly two miles in length, lying among the One Thousand Islands, in front of and only one-half mile distant from Alexandria Bay ; reached by ferry every hour ; commanding views of the St. Lawrence River ; pure and bracing air ; sloping green lawns planted with forest trees ; sandy beaches for bathing ; spacious verandas ; house fully equipped with all modern appli- ances ; electric bells ; baths ; telegraph ; fine orchestra ; dancing. Open June i to October i. Prices : — By the day, $2 to $3 ; by the week, $12 to $17. Special rates to families and parties. Address, Alexandria Bay, N. Y. LOWER SARANAC LAKE— The Ampersand.— One mile from the village, which is accessible by the Chateaugay Railroad from Plattsburg on Lake Champlain — time from New York fourteen miles ; the hotel, built primarily for winter guests, is on a slope, amid pines, hemlocks and balsams, and its verandas, which in winter are enclosed in glass, command a magnificent view of the lake and surrounding mountains ; large annex building and cottages recently erected ; tents and other provision made for day camps ; heated with steam and lighted with gas ; two large fire-places m the main office ; large and elegant public and private dining-rooms ; ladies' billiard parlor ; elevator ; table supplied from farm with fresh milk, eggs and vegetables ; receives one hundred and thirty- five guests. Open all the year. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $5. Managers, Eaton & Young, Ampersand, Franklin county, N. Y. ALEXANDRIA BAY— Thousand Island House.— A ''summer palace," with lofty porticos on three sides, thirteen feet in width, commanding beautiful views of river and Islands ; central tower 308 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. one hundred and sixty feet high ; dining-room loo by 40 feet and 27 feet high ; grand saloon and reception rooms ; gas, electric bells, elevators ; bowling alle^^s and billiard rooms ; fleet of boats ; ex- cursions among the islands twice daily by a small steamer ; orches- tral music ; daily telegraphic stock reports ; receives four hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $4; by the week, $17.50 to $28; re- duced rates. THOUSAND ISLANDS— The Frontenac— On Round Island, in the American channel, one mile below the Clayton Railroad terminus, steamboats connecting with all trains ; one mile long and about one-fourth in width, rising gradually to the centre, where a public lawn is laid out; irregtilar shore line, skirted with woods ; hotel on the highest point ; veranda of seven hundred feet ; ob- servatory one hundred and fifty feet high, offering an extensive view of river and islands ; elevator ; gas, electric bells, steam heat ; orchestral music ; boats and oarsmen ; daily excursions among the islands ; post and telegraph offices ; receives three hundred and fifty guests. Address, Frontenac, Jefferson county, N. Y. LAKE MASSAWEPIE— Childwold Park House and Cot- tages. — Childwold Park consists of about five thousand acres, in- cluding Lake Massawepie and five charming lakelets ; five miles b> stage from Childwold station on new Adirondack and St. Lawrence Railroad, which branches at Herkimer from the New York Cen- tral ; through vestibuled trains from Grand Central depot without change ; hotel erected recently now enlarged ; in a grove of forest trees between two lakes, and commanding an uninterrupted view of Lake Massawepie ; three Queen Ann cottages on the lake to rent by the month or season ; canoes and experienced guides ; deer, trout and bass ; picturesque rambles and drives within the park ; well-equipped livery ; medical attendance ; telegraph and daily mails ; receives two hundred and fifty guests. Open in June. Prices: — By the day, $3 to $4; by the week, $15 to $21; special rates for season. BLUFF POINT — Hotel Champlain. — A c(jmmanding promon- tory on the west shore of Lake Champlain, separating the valley of the Salmon River from the lake ; three miles south of Plattsburg ; upon a broad plateau, which has been cleared in the primitive SUMMER RESORT GUIDE, 309 forest, reached by a winding pike road from Bluff Point station at the foot of the hill ; the outlook embraces nearly a thousand square miles of valley, lake and mountain ; westward and southward the ranges of the Adirondacks, eastward the lake with its bays and islands with the mountains beyond ; varied means of diversion are offered — steamboat and sailboat excursions on the lake, excursions by local railway trains, delightful rambles, horseback trips, the hunting and fishing grounds of the Adirondacks within a day's outing ; billiard tables and bowling alleys in a separate building. Manager, O. D. Seavey. Address, Hotel Champlain, P. O., Clinton county, N. Y. SARANAC lake — Saranac Lake House. — On the Lower vSar- anac, one mile by stage from Miller's station on the Chateaugay Rail- road ; elevation two thousand feet ; lake is stocked with fish ; on the borders of a forest stretching for miles in all directions ; large rooms in suites of two to six ; open fire-places m parlors, office and dining-room ; electric bells ; wide verandas nearly one thousand feet in length ; bowling and billiards ; camping equipments at moderate prices ; telegraph and daily mail ; fresh vegetables, milk, butter, etc., from farm; livery stables; receives three hundred guests. Open May i to November i. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $4 ; special rates for a prolonged stay. LAKE LUZERNE — Wayside Inn and Cottages. — On a plateau bordering the lake ; elevation above tide water seven hundred and fifty feet ; picturesque house in Swiss cottage style ; ornamented gTounds of twenty acres w^ith tennis court ; fifty boats on the lake ; livery and boarding stables. Open June to October i. Prices : — By the day, $3.50 and $4 ; by the week, $21 to $28 ; ten furnished cottages, rented at $200 to $1,000 for the seascm ; supplied in whole or in part from the hotel table ; table board for cottagers, $14 per week; special rates for September; connection by telephone. TRENTON FALLS — Moore's Hotel.— Eighteen miles north ot Utica ; direct connections from New York by the Rome, Water- town and Ogdensburgh Railroad ; the new Adirondack railroad crosses the ravine, only a mile from the hotel ; five cascades, mak- ing a total fall of two hundred feet, in a ravine remarkable for pic- turesque grandeur. "The river," said the poet Willis, "in the .310 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. heart of that fearful chasm is the most varied and beautiful assem- blage of the thousand forms and shapes of running water I have ever seen." Hotel appointments include a large library and valuable pictures. Open May to October. Prices : — By the day, $3 to $3.50 ; by the week, $14 to $20. Special rates by the month. THE BELCEIL MTS., CANADA— Iroquois House.— Two and a half miles from St. Hilaire station on the Grand Trunk Railway, twenty-two miles from Montreal ; hotel carriages meet all trains ; hotel stands on a table rock at an elevation of one thousand six hundred feet, commanding an extensive and varied view ; adjacent to a mountain lake three miles in circumference, affording jfishing, bathing and boating ; large bath-houses supplied by a stream of • water from the lake ; grounds of practically unlimited extent, pic- turesquely varied ; billiards, bowHng-alley ; livery at moderate rates ; receives four hundred guests. Open from May to Septem- ber. Prices: — By the day, $2 to $3; by the week, $10 to $17. Address, St. Hilaire, P. Q., Canada. IX. GREEN MOUNTAIN REGION. The Green Mountains are the most northerly extension of the ranges of which the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts, the Litch- field Hills of Connecticut and the Highlands of the Hudson form part. They run about midway between the Connecticut River on the east and the valley of Lake Champlain and the Hudson on the west, and with their foothills and spurs, give picturesque character to the entire State which derives from them its name. The high- est summits are Mount Mansfield (four thousand three hundred and forty-eight feet), Camel's Hump (four thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet), Killington Peak (three thousand nine hundred and twenty-four feet), and Ascutney (three thousand three hundred and twenty feet). MANCHESTER— Equinox House.— A beautiful village on the Bennington and Rutland Railway, thirty miles south of Rutland, in a valley three miles wide, with the Green Mountains on the east SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. 311 and Mount Equinox on the west, from the summit of which may be seen Lakes George and Champlain, the Catskills, Greylock and the Franconia cham of White Mountains. Hotel of the first-class, with extensive grounds ; stocked trout pond one mile from hotel, for special use of guests ; table water from Equinox spring, one thou- sand five hundred feet above the village, possessing valuable cura- tive qualities, "as near perfect as any water known," says Profes- sor Chandler ; thorough drainage appointments with new system of water supply ; music afternoon and evening ; billiards, bowling- alley, tennis and croquet grounds ; beautiful drives and excursions ; well equipped livery ; dogs not taken. Prices : — By the day, $4 ; by the week, $21, $25 and $28; in the cottage, with light rooms, service, etc., $17.50. Proprietor, F. H. Orvis, Manchester, Ben- nington county, Vt. MIDDLETOWN SPRINGS— Montvert Hotel.— Seven miles by stage from Poultney, which is seventy-two miles from Albany by the Rutland and Washington Railroad ; elevation about three thousand feet ; gas ; water on every floor from mountain springs ; hose and fire extinguishers ; wide verandas, affording views of Kellington, Pico, Spruce, Knob and other summits ; billiards and bowling; grounds of thirty-five acres, on which are the "healing springs ; " livery and boarding stables ; receives three hundred and fifty g^uests. Address, The Montvert, Middletown Springs, Vt. NEWPORT, VT.— Owl's Head Hotel and Cottages.— On Lake Memphremagog, at base of Owl's Head Mountain ; by rail to New- port and steamer, twelve miles to hotel ; five hundred acres in grounds, nearly a mile of lake front ; pure mountain air, with aroma from forests of balsam-fir, cedar and birch ; house recon- structed in 1890 ; large hall for indoor amusements ; water on every floor ; bowling ; billiards ; no bar, but wine served at table ; receives one hundred guests. Prices: — By the day, $2 to $3 ; by the week, $8 to $15. LAKE DUNMURE— Mountain Sprlng Hotel.— Nine miles from Brandon on the Central Vermont Railroad ; a beautiful lake five miles in length, bordered by mountains ; a new house provided with every modern appointment for the comfort of guests ; eleva- tor ; electric bells in every room ; incandescent electric lights ; hot 312 SUMMER RESORT GUIDE. and cold baths ; rooms single or in suits ; perfect sanitary condi- tions ; pure spring water ; beautiful walks and drives ; good livery ; two hundred spacious and well furnished rooms ; six cottages connected with hotel by covered walk, rented whole or in part. Open in June. Prices: — By the week, $12.50 to $22.50. Address> Salisbury, Vt. X. WHITE MOUNTAINS— MAINE LAKES. The mountain land of New Hampshire includes about twenty peaks, ranging in height from four thousand feet to that of Mount Washington, six thousand two hundred and eighty-five feet. Gen- eral elevation of the plateau, one thousand six hundred feet ; its extent from south to north, forty-five miles ; from east to west, thirty miles. The mountains are divided into two groups, the western being known as the Franconia ; they form, however, but one massif. The two points of departure for the mountains are Wells River on the west, and North Conway on the east. These two points are connected by a continuous line of railway formed by the junction of the Lowell division of the Boston and Maine with the Portland and Ogdensburg Railways, which intersect the moun- tain region. — Wells River may be most directly reached from New- York by way of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad to Springfield, and thence up the Connecticut Valley ; from Boston by the Boston and Lowell Railroad, which touches at Lake Win- nepesaukee. — North Conway is reached, via Boston, by the Boston and Maine Railroad. FRANCONLV NOTCH— Profile House.— A pass between the Franconia and Pemigewasset ranges ; six miles by railway from Bethlehem Junction ; hotel on an open plateau, at an elevation ot o Es' l^euND Hats ,.ri. 60nnets AND Dunlap Silk Umbrellas. NEW YORK : 178 and 180 Fifth Avenue, between 22nd and 23rd Streets, and 181 Broadway, near Cortlandt Street. CHICAGO: Palnner House. PHILADELPHIA: 914 Chestnut St. Accredited Agencies in all 'Prirjcipal Cities. Whe Earl^h is S^pinl^ing. Sir Edwin Arnold, in one of his recent letters, says : *'This world we live in is becoming sadly monotonous, as it shrinks year by year to smaller and smaller apparent dimensions under the rapid move- ment provided by limited passenger trains and swift ocean steamships." The New York Central & Hudson River Railroad has, by the introduction of its Empire State Express, to a greater degree than any other force on this continent aided this shrinking process. It is now possible, by taking this Fastest Train in the World, to breakfast leisurely at your home or hotel in New York, and dine in Buffalo or Niagara Falls, more than 440 miles a,way. EMPIRE STATE EXPRESS " or the NEW YORK CENTRAL V_ THE FASTEST TRAIN IN THE WORLD. y From a Photograoh by A. P. YATES, Syracuse, N. Y. Taken when the train was running 60 miles an hour. For the excellence of its track, the speed of its trains, the safety and comfort of its patrons, the loveliness and variety of its scenery, the number and importance of its cities, and the uniformly correct character of its service, the New York Central & Hudson River Railroad is not surpassed by any similar institution on either side of the Atlantic. JOHN M. TOUCEY. GEORGE H. DANIELS. Gehbral Manager. Gen'l Passenger Agent. GRAND CENTRAL STATION, NEW YORK. Id 2i ^iu'^k D^y. A Thousand Beautiful Views, A Tiiousand Historic Scenes, A Thousand Romantic Incidents, Fill the sight and mind of the traveler who jour- neys along our grand old Hudson River, and through the beautiful Mohawk Valley, on one of the Peerless Passenger Trains of the New York Central. Travelers who have visited all the countries of the Globe express the opinion that the trip be- tween New York and Buffalo and Niagara Falls, by the New York Central, is the Finest One-Day Railroad Ride in the World. Every Mile is Historic, Every Mile is Beautiful, Every Mile is a Pleasure. An ever-changing panorama of Rivers, Moun- tains, Lakes, Fields, and Forests, interspersed with Towns and Cities of international impor- tance and absorbing interest. For one of tlic ''Four-Track: Series," send two 2 cent stamps to GFORGF H. I>AXIFLS, General Passenger Aj^ent, Grand Central Station, New Vork. THE "WORLD'S Greatest Passenger Train." ^/: ^ ^ This proud title has been bestowed by an appreciative public on the I 3T is well deserved because the train affords more conveniences, more comforts and more luxuries than any other train in the world. One may eat, sleep, work or transact business as if in hotel or club. To this end there are luxurious sleeping cars, dining cars, ladies* maids, bath rooms for both sexes, a barber shop, financial news and stock re- ports, stenographers and type writers. United States Mail boxes and a library. 7[T is the favorite train between New York and ^ Chicago, and a trip on it is a long-remembered leasure tour. yJ^HE Pennsylvania Limited leaves New York from the Pennsylvania Railroad Station, foot of Desbrosses and Cortlandt Streets, every day at 12 o'clock noon for Chicago. J. R. WOOD, S M PREVOST General Passenger Agent, General Maiiager. P«IIC COA^I LllE J^ Via WASHINGTON. SHORT'^LINE BETWEEN BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, NEW YORK, BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, AND RICHMOND, SAVANNAH, WILMINGTON, BRUNSWICK, CHARLESTON, ALBANY, THOMASVILLE, PALATKA, JACKSONVILLE, SANFORD, ST. AUGUSTINE, TAMPA, PUNTA GORDA, ALL FLORIDA POINTS, AND HflVflNA, CUBA. EASTERN OFFICES: 229 Broadway, New York. 33 South 3d St., Philadelphia. 228 Washington St., Boston. 106 East Germon St., Baltimore, 511 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington. -TO .i^LL- WINTER RESORTS South Georgia, Florida, Cnba, the West Indies and Mexico, Via. H:AV.^>^A, CUBA, REACHED BY THE Plant BystEiii RAILWAY AND STEAMSHIP LINES, In connection with Pennsylvania R. R., via New York, Washington and Atlantic Coast Railways, and with the principal railway lines between all cities of the West and South-west, forming through train and sleeping-car service, and JACKSON! IL.L.E, ST. AUGt'STINE, TAI^IPA AND PORT TA:^IPA5 FLORIDA. FAST AND COMMODIOUS STEAMSHIPS BETWEEN Port Tampa, Key West and Havana ; Port Tampa and Mobile ; Port Tampa and St. James City (Pine Island), Punta Rassa. Fort Myers, Naples, and resorts of the Gulf Coast ; Port Tampa and Manatee River. The magnificent Tampa Bay Hotel, at Tampa, and the Seminole, at Winter Park, on the South Florida R. R., are open during the season of Winter Tourist travel, and are- maintained at a high standard of exceller.ce. The Inn at Port Tampa is open the entire year, and is in an attrac- tive, healthful and convenient place for passengers to await the arrival and departure of steamers and trains. For further information apply to any Railroad Ticket Agent, or to J. D. HASHAGEN, Eastern Agent. 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. FRED. ROBLIN, Traveling Pass. Agent, 261 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. H. B. PLANT, President, 12 WEST 23d street, NEW YORK. WINDSOR HOTEU NBY^ YORK. HAWK & WETHERBEE. CONVENIENTLY SITUATED ON FIFTH AVENUE, NEAR THE GRAND CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION, ELEVATED AND SURFACE TRAMWAYS, THEATRES, PLACES OF AMUSE- MENT, CHURCHES AND CLUBS. HAS BEEN RECENTLY FITTED THROUGHOUT WITH THE LATEST MODERN SANI- TARY PLUMBING. THE DRINKING WATER USED IS CHEMICALLY PURE AND THE ICE IS MADE FROM DISTILLED WATER. CUISINE AND SERVICE UNSURPASSED. COOL AND ATTRACTIVE IN SUMMER. COMFORTABLE AND HOME-LIKE IN WINTER. 6TAGES WHEN DESIRED. WILL MEET ALL STEAMERS AND CONVEY PASSENGERS AND LUGGAGE DIRECT TO THE HOTEL AT MODERATE CHARGES. RAILWAY TICKETS. SLEEPING CAR AND DRAWING-ROOM CAR ACCOMMODATIONS CAN BE SECURED IN THE HOTEL; CABLE AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE, RUSSIAN AND TURK- ISH BATHS, AND EVERY COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE FOR TRAVELERS. WELL-LIGHTED AND VENTILATED SPACIOUS PUBLIC ROOMS, COR- RIDORS, DRAWING-ROOMS AND PARLOR SUITES, SINGLE OR DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHS. ALL LANGUAGES SPOKEN. Grand Boulevard and West 71st St.. NEW YORK. THIS KAMII^Y HOXKI^ IS A I»EirKKCT OKl»I. EVERYTHING NEW ! EVERTTBING OF THE BEST ! ! Choice sunny Suites, large and small. Every Suite a Home by itself. Private Halls. Engagements made by the year. Suites fully Furnished or Unfurnished. A limited number reserved for parties wishing to remain in the City for a week or more. Rates Reasonable. American Plan. E. N. NA/ILSON. SARATOGA SPRINGS, N. Y. United Stdtes Hole ii TOMPKINS, GAGE 4, PERRY, PROPRIETORS. Open 3^"^^ 2^^ ^^ Octo^cz ]^t. MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA. MIDWINTER SCENES AT THE CELEBRATED Moi^el del IT}onfe, MONTEREY, CAL AMERICA'S FAMOUS SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT. ONLY 3K HOURS FROM SAN FRANCISCO By Express Trains of the Southern Pacific Company. R.ates for Board: By the day, $>oo and upward. Parlors, from $i.o3 to $2.50 per day, extra. Children, in children's dining-room, $2.00 per day. Particular Attention is called to the moderate charges for accommodations at this magnificent establishment. The extra cost of a trip to California is more than counterbalanced by the difference in rates at the various Southern Winter Resorts and the incomparable Hotel del Monte. Intending: Visitors to California and the Hotel del Monte have the choice of the ** Sunset, ♦♦ ** Central, ♦♦ or ** Shasta" Routes. These three routes, the three main arms (^f the great railway system of the Soutliern Pacific Company, carry the traveler through the best sections of California, and any one of them will reveal wonders of climate, products and scenery that no other part of the world can duplicate. For illustrated descripiive pam- phlet of the hotel, and for information as to routes of travel, rates for through tickets, etc., call upon or address H. HAIVI^HV, Assistant -General Traffic Manager. Southern Pacific Company, 343 Broad- ^way, New York:. For further infortnatiouy address GEORGE SCHONEWALD, Manager Hotel del Monte. OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA- s ea i^acl? Sofel » SANTA CRUZ BEACH, 1 Santa Cruz^ California. 1 The leading family hotel with modern improvements and first-class service. Hot and cold water ; electric lights and call bells in every room ; headquarters for all tourists ; six miles to the famous Big Trees, "Giant Redwoods.' The finest land and marine view on the coast. For terms and illustrated souvenir, address JOHN T. SULLIVAN, Proprietor. PACIFIC OCEAN HOUSE. The leading commercial house in SANTA CWLVZ. Centrally located on the principal Street. Large, pleasant sample rooms and modern improvements. Street cars pass the door. TERMS: $2.00, S2.60 and $3.00 per Day. SULLIVAN & CHACE, Proprietors. H. W. LAKE, Manager. YOUR ADVERTISING IS SOLICITED. Estimates, containing Selected Lists of Suitable Publications with Rates for Advertising, furnished free. References to firnns using this agency given on application T 'HE PRICE OF UTICA, N. Y. ONE DOLLAR A YEAR. Many of its Readers Think it is Worth More. ITTS JMISSION To TELL YOU ABOUT AMERICAN SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS. A subscription to The Tourist includes a subscription to any one of the four weeklies which form THE NEWS SERIES: Ths Saratoga News. The Richfield news. The St. Augustine News. The Thousand Islands News. WHICH HAVE BEEN CALLED "THE COURT JOURNALS" OF AMERICAN HEALTH AND PLEASURE RESORTS^ Each subscriber to either The Tourist or any one of The News Series becomes a subscriber to The TraYellers' Bureaus of The News Series, Whose business it is to furnish trustworthy information relating to America's Summer and Winter Resorts. (General Qffice, UTICA, N. Y. F. G. BARRY, Publisher* II and 12 DOVER STREET, PICCADILLY, - LONDON. 277 FIFTH AVENUE, - - - NEW YORK. 1703 MICHIGAN AVENUE, - - - CHICAGO. KATE RBILY T T AS always on view at her three well-known estab- ^ * livShments, in London, New York and Chicago, a varied assortment of the newest and most choice goods in (^osfumes, Mantles R^^MillinGf^. Madame Reily pays six or more annual visits to Paris, where she has also a permanent agent. She thus secures the freshest novelties, as they appear, and seizing all that is best and most becoming in the in- coming fashions adapts it to the especial requirements of her extensive' clientele. Madame Reily 's excellent taste has obtained for her the esteemed patronage of all the most fashionable, aristocratic and artistic ladies of both hemispheres PERFECT FIT GUARANTEED BY FIRST-CLASS FRENCH FITTERS. THE HOME JOURNAL, A WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OF ^IJIlFEI^AfPllF?B, fll^iP AND SOGIBIlY, ^ FOUNDED IN 1846 BY THE WELL-KNOWN POETS, CEO. P. MORRIS AND N. P. WILLIS, retains its prestige as the exponent of that literary and art culture which gives grace and refinement to social intercourse. Readers at a distance will find the best life of the metropolis reflected in its pages. It is also in an especial sense an INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL, and by its correspondence and essays brings its readers into touch with the social life of the GREAT EUROPEAN CENTRES OF CULTURE. The Home JournaIv contains more advertisements of SUMMER AND WINTER RESORT HOTELS, and devotes more editorial space to them than any other newspaper. It has particular value as an advertising medium for EUROPEAN HOTELS, being the organ of cultivated and fashionable Americans — those who pass their summers in Europe. published every wednesday. Subscription, $2.00 per Year. five cents a CopYo MORRIS PHILLIPS & CO., Publishers, 240 Broadway, New York, DEMPSEY & CARROLL f THE UNION SQUARE , ART STATIONERS . 36 AND ^i^ EAST 14Tri STR EET, ENGRAVERS , NEW YORK CITY. C^ :^' CORRECT STYLES. RECHI'XIO:^ & VISIXI^G CARDS. High Grade Stationery, MONOGRAM, ADDRESS AND HERALDIC DIES. hand painted Menus axd Oinner Cards. RICH LEATHER GOODS, PLAIN AND SILVER MOUNTED. IMPORXEO SXAXIOXERY IVOVELXIES. iL/iss Tailoring, 292 FIFTH AVENUE, Just Above the Holland House, Between 30th and 31st Sts. ' It is easier to follow til an to lead." This aphorism is just as true to-day as it was in the time of Columbus, (§(§{§ As an acknowledged leader in HIGH CLASS TAILORING for the well dressed, I take pleasure to invite you to my NEW ESTABLISHMENT, FIFTH AVENUE. TWO NINETY-TWO (just above Holland House), to inspect a complete line of CLOTHS manufactured abroad by special warrant. <§ # '§ (f '# Prices Moderate. JOHN J. KENNEDY, NEW YORK, ^tein^ay 5c Sens, PIANO MANUFACTURERS, BEG TO ANNOUNCE THAT HIS MAJESTY EMPEROR WILLIAM II. OF GERMANY, By patent dated June 13 1892. has deigned to appoint the piano manufacturer, William Steinway the head of the house of Steinwa}' & Sons, New York, piano manufacturer to THE ROYAL COURT OF PRUSSIA. STEINWAY 80 SONS Beg further to announce that by Royal Warrants dated respectively May 29, June 18, and Oct. 4, i8go, they were honored by the appointments of piano man- ufacturers to ^ ^ HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND, AND THEIR ROYAL BIGHXESSES The Prince an d Princ ess of Wales. ILLISTRATED CATALOGUES MAILED FREE ON APPLICATION. STEINVk^AY & SONS, WAREROOMS : STEINWAY HALL, 107-111 East i4tli Street, DEW YORK. STEINAVAY HALL, STKINV* AY*S riANOFAKRIK, 15 and 17 Lower Seymour Street, gj. p^^^jj y^^^ Roscn-Stiassc. 20-24 Portman Square. \\ ., ^ LONDON. ENG. i HAMBURG, GERMANY.