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he did, an eminent alumnus of the college thus writes: "As Williams liimself sat in his sick-chamber at Albany, and laid aside the i)en with which he had made sure his last act of good will to his old neighbors and friends in the Hoosac valley, and contemplated its beneficent results in the higher intelligence and well-being of their posterity in the future, could the veil have been lifted, and his eye have run down the line of the coming years till it rested on these times, and marked the results as they now stand revealed to us ; could he have seen the little hamlet of eleven settlers give place to the populous village, and the broad cultivated town, and the frontier which he had defended so well stretching onwards to the lakes, across the western valley to the Pa- cific shore; could he have beheld the free school expanding into the college, and bestowing a liberal culture upon sixty- five generations of generous youth, sending them forth each successive year equipped to do the work of men ' In the world's broad field of battle,' — could he have caught a glimpse of the maple grove and the haystack beside it, and the u})lifted hands of those youthful heroes of a new crusade, pleading for a fresh baptism upon the churches, and have seen the swift messengers of peace running to all lands and publishing salvation, and the darkness lifting, and the day breaking, and heard the morning song, would he not also, with a full heart, have exclaimed : " It is well ! Tiie ways of God are justified. I see there is a higher prize ! I see there is a brighter glory ! It is well. Though my sun go down at noon; though I fall in the first shock of battle, and others lead on to victory and win the soldier's prize ; though my poor body sleep long years in the deep woods, and no kindly tear fall, and no friendly foot press the spot, yet I shall not be forgotten. The men of other ages and far-off lands shall repeat my name with a blessing; it shall live with Mills on the ocean, with Hall on the ' burning strand ;' the monumental marble shall 20 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. speak it, and the sweet valley Avhicli I love, and the ever- lasting mountains around, shall guard and preserve it for- ever ! "* In an address delivered before the Adelphic Union So- ciety of the college, in 1837, the distinguished scholar and orator, Edward Everett, in his own way thus personifies Colonel AVilliams in that early day : " My friends, (we may conceive he would say to a group of settlers gathered around old Fort Massachusetts, on some fit occasion, not long before his marching towards the place of rendezvous,) — my friends, your hardships I am aware are great. I have witnessed, I have shared them. The hardships incident to the opening a new country are always severe. They are heightened in our case by the constant danger in which we live from the savage enemy. At present we are rather encamped than settled. We live in block- houses ; we lie upon our arms by night, and, like the Jews who returned to build Jerusalem, we go to work by day with implements of industry in one hand, and the weapons of war in the other. Nor is this the worst. We have been bred up in the populous settlement on the coast, where the school-house and the church are found at the center of every village. Here, as yet, we can have neither. I know these things weigh upon you. You look on the dark and im- penetrable forests in which you have made an opening, and contrast it with the pleasant villages where you were born and passed your early years — where your parents arc yet living, or where they' have gone to their rest, and you can- not suppress a painful emotion. You are more especially, as I perceive, somewhat disheartened at the present moment of impending war. But, my friends, let not your spirits sink. The prospect is overcast, but brighter days will come. In vision I can plainly foresee them. The forest disappears; the cornfield, the pasture, takes its place. The hill-sides are spotted with flocks ; the music of the water-wheel sounds in * Alumni address of Hon. Joseph White, 1855. WJLLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS ('()LLK(iK. 21 accord willi the dasliing streuin. Your little grou}).s ol log- cabins swell into prosperous villages. Schools and churches, spring uj) in the waste; institutions for learning arise; and in what is now a wide solitude, libraries and cabinets un- fold their treasures, and observatories point their tubes to the heavens. 1 tell you that not all the united })0wers of all the French and Indians on the St. Lawrence — no, not if backed by all the powers of darkness, which seem at times in league with them, to infest this howling wilderness — will long prevent the valleys of the Hoosac and the Housatonic from becoming the abode of industry, abundance, and re- tinement. A century will not pass before the voice of do- mestic wisdom, and fireside inspiration from the vales of Berkshire, will be heard throughout America and E;uro])e. As for tlie contest impending, I am sure we shall conquer; if I mistake not, it is the first of a scries of events of unut- terable moment to all America, and even to mankind. Be- fore it closes, the banner of St. George will float, I am sure, over Diamond Rock ; and the extension of British i)Ower over the whole continent will be l)ut the first act of a great (h-ama whose catastrophe I but dimly foresee. " I speak of what concerns tlie whole country ; the fortune of individuals is wrapt in the uncertain future. For myself, I must own that I feel a foreboding at my heart which I can- not throw off. I can only sa}^, if my hour is come, (and I think it is not distant,) I am prepared. I have been able to do but little; but if Providence has no further work for me to perform, I am ready to be discharged from the war- fare. It is my purpose, before I am taken from you, to make a disposition of my property for the benefit of this, infant community. M}' heart's desire is, that in the iiicture of its future prospects which I behold in mental view, the last and best of earthly blessings shall not be wanting. I shall deem my life not spent in vain, though it be cut oil' to-morrow, if at its close I shall be accepted as the humble instrumelit of l)romoting the great cause of education. " My friends, as I am soon to join the army, we meet, 22 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. many of us, perhaps for the last time. I am a solitary branch ; I can be spared. I have no wife to feel my loss, no children to follow me to the grave. Should I fall by the tomaliawk or in front of honorable battle, on the shores of the stormy lake or in the infested woods, this poor body may want even a friendly hand to protect it from insult — but I must take the chances of a soldier's life. When I am gone you will find some proof that my last thoughts were with the settlers of Fort Massachusetts; and, perhaps, at some future day, should my desire to serve you and your children not be disappointed, my humble name Avill not be forgotten in the public assembly, and posterity will bestow a tear on the memory of Ephraim Williams." WILLTA^rSTOWN AND wirjJA^rs (•OrJ.KflK. 23 i 2 CHAPTER V. The Establishment of the College. Colonel Williams had often been heard to lament his own lack of a liberal education, and it was doubtless the sense of Ins disadvantages on that account which prompted him to devote his property to the purposes of education by estab- lishing an institution which should be open to all who might seek its benefits. He thought he could bestow no greater fovor upon his soldier companions, wdio had become en- deared to him by their common toils and exposures in Fort Massachusetts and in campaigns on the frontier, than to provide for their children and those who should succeed them the benefits of a good education. The history of Colonel Williams' bequest is interesting as showing what fruit may come from a small seed, and the changed condition of things and of our ideas and estimates since the time that his will was made. The amount of i)rop- erty left by Williams would seem to any one now ridicu- lously small for the purpose of establishing a school of an}'- sort. Even at the time the bequest was made, it was so in- adequate to its purpose that it was only after it had been converted into money and carefully husbanded by the ex- ecutors, by being allowed to increase at compound interest for thirty years, that they felt warranted in attem})ting to })ut the contemplated school in actual operation. At length, in the year 1785, they ventured to apply to the Legislature for an act enabling them to fulfill the intention of the tes- tator. Thereupon an act was passed incorporating William Williams, Theodore Sedgwick, Woodbridge Little, John Bacon, Thompson J. Skinner, Israel Jones, David Noble, Rev. Seth Swift, Rev. Daniel Collins, persons of the highest distinction in Western Massachusetts, " trustees of the dona- 24 WILLIAMSTOWX AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 25 tion of Ephraim Williams for maintaining a free school in Williamstown." The trustees, almost all of whom were graduates of Yale College, held their first meeting soon after the act of incor- l)oration was passed. They found the property intrusted lo them so insufficient for the purpose for which it was designed that they at once appointed three of their number a com- mittee to procure additional funds. At the same time they voted that the school should be open and free not only to the people of Williamstown, but to " the free citizens of th(> American States indiscriminately." That they were under- taking to establish something more than an ordinary free school is shown also b}^ a vote, passed at an early stage of their proceedings, that the building for the school should be constructed of bricks, and should be seventy-two feet in length, forty feet wide, and three stories high. As tlu\v went on with their work, however, the ideas of the trustees seem to have expanded, and the building finally erected, and as it stands to-day, is eighty-two feet in length, forty- two in width, and four stories high. It was a notable struc- ture for the })]ace and the time, and compares favorably now with many buildings of more pretentious character and more recent date. It is, indeed, a marvel that an edifice so solid and imi)ressive in a})pearance as it is to-day should have ^ been erected nearly a century ago, and in what was almost literally a wilderness. This is the building now known as West College. Its site overlooks the town and a large i)or- tion of the adjacent country, the range of vision being lim- ited only by the lofty hills or mountains which lift tliem- selves on every side. It is another indication of the scarcity of money then, as well as of a change in moral apprehension, that the trustees felt obliged to resort to the help of a lottery in order to X secure the funds needful for the erection of their cfontem- l)lated building. The Legislature, on tlieir aj)plication, gave them a grant for a lottery, and the result was an addition of i;l,037 18s. 2d. to their resources. With this, and a sub- 4 26 WILLIAMSTOAVN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGK, WILMAMSTOWX ANI> WII.MAMS COLLEGK. 27 scription of §2,000 by the residents of Williamstowii, they were at length enabled to erect their Ijuilding. The school was opened October 20, 175>1, with the Rev. El)enezer Fitch, a graduate of Yale College, as preceptor, and Mr. John Lester, as assistant. There were two depart- ments — a grammar school, or academy, and an English free scliool. In the first, the usual college studies of that day were taught; in the second, instruction in the common I'^nglish studies was given to a company of boys from the higher classes in the common schools of the town. The school was popular and successful from the beginning. There was no institution nearer than the colleges at Han- over and New Haven so attractive to those ambitious of learning. Young men came to it from the neighboring States, and even from Canada. The po})ularity of the school was such, indeed, that the trustees, the next year after its opening, sent a petition to the Legislature asking that it might be incorporated as a college. The petition was granted, and an act of incorporation, clianging the Free School into a College, by the name of Williams College, was passed on the 22d of June, 1793. By this act the trustees of the school, with the addition of Ilev. Stephen West, D. D., Henry Van Schaack, Hon. Elijah Williams, and the Presi- dent of the College for the time being were constituted trus- tees of the College. By the same act all the property belong- ing to the Free School was transferred to the corporation of the College, and a grant of four thousand dollars was also made from the State treasury for the purchase of a library and philosophical ap[)aratus. The English school was now discontinued, but the academy was maintained for) several years. At the first meeting of the Board of Trustees after the in- corporation of the College, Rev. Ebenezer Fitch, who had been master of the Free School, was unanimously cho.sen President of the College, Rev. Stephen West, D. D., Vice- President, and Daniel Dewey, Secretary. It was voted that commencement be on the first Wednesday of September. 28 WJLLIAMSTOWN AND WII>LIAMS COLLEGE. It was voted also that applicants for admission to the Col- lege must be " able accurately to read, parse, and construe, to the satisfaction of the President and tutor, A'^irgil's ^Eneid, Tully's Orations, and the Evangelists in Greek," or, if pre- ferring to become acquainted with French, " be able to read and pronounce, with a tolerable degree of accuracy and fluency, Hudson's French Scholar's Guide, Telemachus, or some other approved French author." Messrs. Skinner, Swift, and Noble Avere appointed a "com- mittee to counsel the President." Mr. Noble also received the thanks of the Board for his present of a bell. The traditional commencement dinner was also provided for, a vote-being passed " that a jxiblic dinner be provided at the next commencement, for tlie President, Trustees, and officers of the College, together with such other gentlemen as the President may invite." Thus the College was actually founded and set in opera- tion, its outward equipment being the single building now known as West College, and its teaching faculty consisting of the President and one tutor. West College combined in itself chapel, library, recitation rooms, studies, and dormi- tories, as the President combined in himself a whole body of professors, teaching all branches of knowledge. For thirty years or more recitations were held in some of the student's rooms, one in each class allowing liis room to be used for the purpose, and receiving some compensation, in the way of free instruction or otherwise, for keeping his room in a condition for such use. A room on the south side of West College, and embracing the second and third stories, served for the chapel until Griffin Hall was built and constructed especially with a view to furnish appropri- ate accommodations for a chapel and for recitations. As originally constructed a hall passed through West College from east to west. Since the building, unfortunately in some respects, stands quite in the public road, this hall be- came a convenient passageway not only for students occu- WILLI AMSTOWN AND WJLIJAMS (•(3LLEGE. 29 pving the building, but for all sorts of people who might have occasion to pass up or down the street for business or [)lcasure. This annoyance and disturbance of the quiet of the occupants led to a remodelling of the building by which access is had to the rooms from each end of it, but without there being any passage through it. lUit West College did not long stand alone as the outward embodiment of Williams College. In January, 1796, the Legislature supplemented its previous bounty by granting the College two townshi})s of land in Maine, which then be- longed to Massachusetts. These were sold the same year for about $10,000, and this sum, with $2,500 derived from other sources, was used the next year for the erection of East College. This was a brick building of nearly the same size as West College. It contained two recitation rooms and thirty-two other rooms. It stood forty-four years, but in LSll was l)urnt and re])laced the next year by tlie present i'^ast College, one story less in height, and by South College, which was built at tlie same time. The first Commencement took place in 1795, when a class of four graduated. Three of these were from Stockbridge, ^ then the largest and most important town in Western Massa- chusetts, and one from Lenox. The next year a class of six graduated. The third year there were ten, and the fourth year thirty. So rapidly did this College in the wilderness grow and prove its reason for being. In 1795 the Catalogue of the College contained the names of seventy-seven students, and there were fifty more connected with the Academy which was attached to the College. This catalogue is said to have been the first College Catalogue pul)lished jn this country. Yale College published a catalogue one year later, and other colleges soon followed the example. For many years these catalogues were printed as broadsides, on a single sheet, in handbill form. Specimens of them may now be seen in the cabinet of the Lyceum of Natural History, where doubtless they were placed because of their supposed rela- tionship to other natural curiosities. 30 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. The first Commencements were held in tlie diminutive meeting-liouse built for religious worship in the infancy of the town. But this was so inconvenient and inadequate for the College requirements that the trustees voted to hold their Commencements in Pittsfield or Lanesborough unless the toAvn would provide a more suitable place. Before the next Commencement a larger building was erected by the ecclesiastical parish, the College contributing one hundred pounds towards its cost, on condition that seats should be reserved for students on the Sabbath, and that the College should have the use of the house on public days.* This house stood in the middle of the broad main-street, after the fashion of many of the older New England churches, and was the eastern l)order of the Park which was formed a few 3'ears ago. After standing more than sixty years, the most conspicuous object, perhaps, in the village, it was con- sumed by fire. The parish were then induced by liberal offers from the trustees to relinquish the former site, and to build the capacious church which now so amply and con- veniently accommodates the College. Time proveriably brings great changes. The older resi- dents tell us that Commencements now are very different from what they were in former years. In the days before railroads had given Williamstown easy communication with the outside world, or traveling shows were wont to frequent ^ its vicinity, Commencement was the great show and attrac- tion of the year. All classes and occupations, old and young, literary and illiterate alike flocked to the scene. The old church, that looked down from its eminence at the west- ern extremity of the broad village avenue, was the focus of attraction. Vehicles of all descriptions, not only from the town, but from the surrounding country, and from quite a distance, brought their eager companies. The fences around and trees were taken possession of as hitching places for the waiting and feeding animals. The venders of ginger-bread, * Durfee's Hist. WILLI AMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 31 peanuts, candy and cakes were present witli their booths and stands. Barrels of cider were not wanting, and it was not difficult to procure a stronger drink. So, as the day wore on, there was often a ludicrous mixture of the literary with wliat had little affiliation with it. The classic language within doors contrasted strongly with much of the discourse outside, and it was an exceptional occasion if tlio day closed witliout some pugilistic encounters. Hawthorne was once, at least, an attendant upon Com- mencement here, and thus gives his impressions in his American Note-Books: " Wednesday, August loth, 1838. — I went to Conunence- ment at Williams College. At the tavern were students with ribbons, pink or blue, fluttering from their button- holes, these being the badges of rival societies. Tliere was a considerable gathering of people, chiefly arriving in wagons or buggies, some in barouches, and very few in chaises. The most characteristic part of tlie scene was where the pedlers, ginger-bread sellers, &c., were collected a few hundred yards from the meeting-house. There was a pedler there from New York State, who sold his wares by auction, and I could have stood antl listened to him all day long. Sometimes he would put up a heterogeny of articles in a lot, as a paper of pins, a lead-pencil, and a shaving-box, and knock them all down, })erhaps for nine pence. Bunches of lead-pencils, steel-pens, pound cakes of shaving-soap, gilt fmgcr-rings, bracelets, clasps, and other jewelry, cards of pearl buttons or steel, (' There is some steel about them, gentlemen, for my brother stole 'em, and I bore him out in it,') bundles of wooden combs, boxes of matches, sus|ienders, and, in short, everything — dipping his hand down into his wares with the promise of a wonderful lot, and producing, perhaps, a bottle of opodeldoc, and joining it with a lead- l)encil — and when he had sold several things of the same kind, pretending huge surprise at tinding 'just one more,' if the lads lingered, saying, ' I could not afford to steal tliem lor the price, for the remorse of conscience wouhl be worth 32 WILLIAMSTO'U'N AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. more,' all the time keeping an eye on those who bought, calling for the pay, making change with silver or bills, and deciding on the goodness of banks ; and saying to the boys who climbed upon his cart, ' Fall down, roll down, tumble down, only get down;' and uttering everything in the queer, humorous recitative in which he sold his articles. Some- times he would jiretend that a person had bid, either bv word or wink, and raised a laugh thus; never losing his self-jiossession, nor getting out of humor. When a man asked whether a bill were good, 'No! do you suppose I'd give you good money?' When he delivered an article, he exclaimed, * You're the lucky man,' setting off his wares with the most extravagant eulogies. The people bought very freely, and seemed also to enjoy the fun. One little boy bought a shaving-box, perhaps meaning to speculate upon it. This character could not possibly be overdrawn ; and he was really excellent, with his allusion to what was 2:)assing, intermingled, doubtless, with a good deal that was studied. "A good many people were the better or worse for liquor. There was one fellow, named Randall, I think, a round- shouldered, bulky, ill-hung devil, with a pale, sallow skin, black beard, and a sort of grin upon his face — a species of laugh, yet not so much mirthful as indicating a strange mental and moral twist. He was very riotous in the crowd > elbowing, thrusting, seizing hold of people ; and at last a ring was formed and a regular wrestling-match commenced between him and a farmer-looking man. Randall brand- ished his legs about in the most ridiculous style, but proved himself a good wrestler, and finally threw his antagonist." We have spoken of the time before railroads, and wlien we considf^r the secluded situation of Williamstown in the early days, hemmed in as it was by mountains on every side, accessible with any facility only through the valleys of tlie Hoosac and the Housatonic, it is almost a matter of wonder that so many found their way to the College, and that as early as J 804 its catalogue contained the names of one hun- WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 33 dred and forty-four students, and both tlie College buildings were full. Ex-Governor Emory Washburn, of the class of 181G has given a description of his experience of college life then, which will help to an understanding of the condi- tion of things at the time. He says, " it is difficult at this day to make one understand the perfect isolation of the spot. During my residence in college, nothing in the form of stage-coach or vehicle for public communication ever en- tered the town. Once a week a solitary messenger, generally on horseback, came over the Florida Mountain, bringing us our newspapers and letters from Jjoston and the eastern l^arts of the State. Once in a week a Mr. Green came up from the South, generally in a one-horse wagon, bringing the county newspa})ers printed at Stockbridge and Pittsfield ; and by some similar mode, and at like intervals, we heard from Troy and Albany. AVith the exception of these, not a ripple of the commotions that disturbed the world outside of these barriers of hills and mountains ever reached the unruttied calm of our valley life. Nor was that all. It was scarcely less difficult to reach the place by private than by public conveyance, except by one's own means of transit. My home, you are aware, was near the center of the State. And as my resources were too limited to make use of a pri- vate conveyance, I was compelled to rely upon stage and chance. My route was by stage to Pittsfield, and thence by a providential team or carriage the remainder of my journey. " I have often smiled as I have recalled with what perse- vering assiduity I waylaid every man who passed by the hotel in order to find some one who would consent to take as a passenger a luckless wight in pursuit of an education under such difficulties. I think I am warranted in saying that I made that passage in ever}^ form and shape of team and vehicle, generally a loaded one, which the ingenuity of man had, up to that time, ever constructed. My bones ache at the mere recollection ' 34 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. " While such was the difficulty of access to the College, it presented little, to the eye of one who visited it for the first time, to reward the struggle it ]iad cost him. When I joined it, it had two buildings, and, I think, fifty-eight students, with two professors and two tutors. The East College was a fine, plain, imposing structure, four stories in height, built of brick. Not one of its lower rooms was occupied, and a part onl}^ of its other stories. Not one of the rooms or pas- sageways was painted. No one of the rooms was papered, or even had a carpet upon it ; and I do not believe the entire furniture of any one room, excepting perhaps the bed, could have cost, or would have sold for, five dollars. I have before me a bill of the furniture of the Senior Recita- tion-room in 1816, including the locks upon the doors, and find it amounts to $7.26. " The only water we had to use was drawn from a spring at the foot of the hill, south of the East College, and to that every student from both Colleges repaired with his pail as his necessities required. The consequence was, it must be confessed, there was no excessive use of that element of comfort and neatness." CPIAPTEK VI. TlIJiEATENKD IvEMOVAL OF THE CoLLEGE. Poi)ular and Houri.sliiiig as the College was at the begin- iiig and for several years, during the latter i)art of the pres- idency of Dr. Fitch there came a decline in its reputation and pros})erity. By some this was attributed to the locality of the College, which j)laced it at a considerable distance from the central and most of the western portion of the State, while other colleges had also been founded in New York and Vermont since its establishment, which drew students from fields to which it had formerly looked for a supply of pupils. Influenced b}^ these, among other reasons, there came to be a strong disposition on the part of many to remove the College from Williamstown to some place in the valley of the Connecticut. While this subject was in agitation, Dr. Fitch resigned his office, unwilling that the decline of the College should be attributed to any Avant of ability or efficiency on his part. He was succeeded in office by Rev. Zephaniah Swift Moore, D. D., who came to the Col- lege with his mind favorably inclined to its removal. A Committee of the Trustees, however, to whom the question of removal had been referred, reported, at the same meeting at which Dr. Moore was chosen President, that " a removal of Williams College from Williamstown is inexpedient at. the present time, and under existing circumstances." But the agitation of the question went on, and a few years after his inauguration, President Moore declared himself openly in favor of removal, threatening to resign his office if the removal were not effected, and it was found that a majority of the Trustees also favored it. A proposal was made to unite the College with a projected literary institution at Amherst. This was declined by the Board. Finally a ma- jority of the Board voted that it was expedient to remove 35 db WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. the College to some more central part of the State, on cer- tain conditions being complied with, and appointed a com- mittee of reference, consisting of Hon. James Kent, Chan- cellor of the State of New York; Hon. Nathaniel Smith, Judge of the Supreme Court of Connecticut, and the Rev. Seth Payson, D. D., of New Hampshire, who were to visit the towns in Hampshire county and determine the place to wliich the College should be removed, the Trustees pledg- ing themselves to abide by their decision. The committee reported Northampton as the proper place. The i)ublic agitation of the question of removal now increased. Active eflbrts were made to raise funds for sustaining the College at Northampton, and its friends in Berkshire made corre- sponding efforts to provide additional funds for its support in its present location. Fifty thousand dollars were soon subscribed by the public of Hampshire county and its vi- cinity to meet the expenses of tlie proposed removal to Northampton and any loss of funds which might thereby be incurred, and the President and Trustees petitioned the Legislature, at its session in 1820, for permission to remove the College to that place. Remonstrance against the grant- ing of the petition was made by the people of Williamstown, and it was ardently opposed throughout the county of Berk- shire. The petition was carefully considered in the Legis- lature by a committee, who reported that it was " neither lawful nor exj)edient to grant the prayer of the petition." It was expected that all parties would acquiese in the de- cision of the Legislature, whatever it might be. And now that the decision was in favor of the continuance of the Col- lege on its original site, it was supposed that all the friends of learning in the western part of the State would give it their hearty support. But some of those who wer6 in favor of the removal were not so disposed, although it had been claimed by both parties, during the agitation, that only one college was needed or could be sustained in Western Massa- chusetts. Funds were soon raised, and a beginning made to erect buildings at Amherst, in the expectation of procuring WILLI AMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 37 a charter for a college there, and the next year Dr. Moore accepted an invitation to the i)residency of the new institu- tion. It was feared tliat the whole body of students here might follow him to Amherst, such was their respect for him ; and so dark seemed, at the time, the prospects of Williams; but fully half of the students decided to remain here. The accession at once of the Rev. Edward Dorr Grifhn, D. D., to the presidency, to which office he had been chosen previous to Dr. Moore's actually vacating it, and the vigorous rallying of its friends to its su])port, enabled the College to pass through this great trial without serious harm, and since its occurrence its course has been one of continued and confirmed strength and prosperity. o 38 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. CHATTER VII. The Character and AD^rixisTRATioN of the College. One might, with much confidence, anticipate wliat the character of the College would be from the character of those who were actively engaged in fbunding it. The men to whom the Legislature entrusted the duty of carrying out the purpose of Colonel Williams were among the most emi- nent citizens of the Commonwealth. Tliey were men who not only respected the wishes of Williams, but they were, with hardly one exception, men of liberal education, men of trained judgment and culture. Most of them were gradu- ates of Yale College, and brought to the work they had in hand much of the spirit of that institution. The first on the list of trustees, the Hon. William \\"\\\- iams, was the son of Hon. Israel Williams of Hatfield, and a cousin of the Founder of the College. He graduated at Yale College in 1754, was clerk of the Court of Common Pleas for Hampshire county, and held many offices of trust. The latter part of his life was spent in Dalton. Dr. West, in a sermon preached at his funeral, says, " he was leader and guide to the people for many years ; an ornament and glory of the town as a citizen and Christian." The Hon. Theodore Sedgwick, LL. D.,of Stockbridge, had a national reputation. He was a graduate of Yale College in 1765. He has the credit, as much as any one, of procur- ing the abolition of slavery in Massachusetts. He was a leading member of the State Convention for the consider- ation of the adoption of the Federal Constitution, and urged its adoption. He was Speaker of the House of Representa- tives of Massachusetts, a Representative and Senator in the National Congress, and a Judge of the Supreme Court of the State. He was not only one of the original trustees of the College, but at one time held the office of Professor of Law and Civil Polity. 39 40 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. Woodbridge Little, Esq., a native of Colchester, Conn., and a graduate also of Yale College, after studying theology, and engaging in the work of the Christian ministry for a few years, was admitted to the bar, and settled in Pittsfield, and became one of the most eminent men of that town and of the count}^ He was an early and large benefactor of the Col- lege, and at his death also left it an important bequest. Hon. John Bacon, a native of Connecticut, graduated at Princeton College. He was for a time Pastor of the Old South Church, Boston, but in 1775 left that church and settled in Stockbridge as a civilian. He became prominent in public affairs, was often a member of the Legislature, once President of the Senate, a Member of Congress, and first judge of the county courts for nearly twenty j'^ears. Hon. Thompson J. Skinner, a native of Connecticut, as were so man}^ of the fi.rst settlers of Williamstown and of Berkshire, came early to AVilliamstown, and was a man of great influence. He was not only a Trustee, but also Treas- urer of the College. He was also Treasurer of the State and Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas. Israel Jones, Esq., a native of AVeston, came to Adams in 1766, and purchased the farm on which Fort Massachusetts stood. He was a man of excellent character, often appointed to posts of civil trust and honor, and was frequently a mem- ber of the Legislature. Hon. David Noble was a native of New Milford, Conn., and graduated at Yale College in 1764, and came to Wil- liamstown in 1770. He was a lawyer and afterwards a merchant, and became an extensive land owner. He was a man of great intelligence and enterprise, and was made a Judge of the Court of Common Pleas. Rev. Seth Swift was a native of Kent, Conn., and gradu- ated at Yale College in 1774. He was ordained to the min- istry in Williamstown in 1779, in which office he continued nearly thirty years. Rev. Daniel Collins was born at Guilford, (/onn., and grad- uated at Yale College in 1760. He was pastor of the church WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 41 in Lancsborough nearly fifty years, and was greatly beloved and esteemed. He was deeply interested in the College and devoted to its welfare. Rev. Stephen West, D. D., was born at Tolland, Conn., and graduated at Yale College in 1755. He was chaplain at Fort Massachusetts for a short time, from which he went to Stockbridge, as the successor of the distinguished Presi- dent Edwards, where he continued his ministry more than sixty years. He was one of the most eminent clergymen of the country, and had great influence far and wide. At the first meeting of the Trustees he was chosen Vice-President of the College, and held that office for twenty years.* Such were the men under whose direction and by whose counsels the College was set in operation, and by whom its character was shaped. They were men foremost in civil and in professional life, men of the highest character for in- telligence and moral worth. The}' were men, nearly all of them, who had themselves been trained in one of our no- blest seats of learning. It was almost certain that the new college which they were establishing on the frontier should partake largely the spirit of the older institution, and that Williams should be a child of Yale. The College has had from the begining an able class of instructors, men of solid rather than showy and superficial qualities, and latterly the instruction has been given wholly by professors, tutors no longer being employed. The Hon. Charles A. Dewey, for many years a Trustee and Secretary of the College, in an address at the celebra- tion of the semi-centennial anniversary in 1843, used this language : " Williams College was peculiarly fortunate in its first officers. President Fitch, that good man, who for almost twenty-two years, almost half of the whole period of its past existence, presided over it, brought to the presidential chair those qualities which gave him extensive influence, and * Durfee's Ilistoiy. 42 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. attracted the attention of the friends of learning and science. Uniting the urbane manners of the good-hearted gentleman, highly respectable talents, much and long-con- tinued experience as a teacher, and a heart abounding in love to God and towards his fellowmen, he was beloved of all, esteemed of all. " His associates, as teachers, were men of the highest order. I see there Jeremiah Day, since so long at the head of Yale College; Henry Davis, who has presided over Middlebury and Hamilton Colleges; Thomas Day and Warren Dutton, lights of science and literature. " The accession of Dr. Griffin gave a new impulse to the College. His eminent talents, his high religious character, his ardent devotion to the College, as then located, produced the happiest results. The tide soon turned ; and from that day Williams College has had a glorious onward march. Its enlargement and imi:)rovement have corresponded with the progress of the age. Everything requisite for a thorough and useful education is provided, so that our sons, to our latest posterity, may come to this fount and drink freely of those waters so well adapted to secure their intellectual and moral training, and to fit them to act well their parts of the great drama of life." A letter of the first president to a friend, as early as 1709, will indicate the character with which the College began. He says : " Things go on well in our inftmt seminary. Our number is hardly so large as last year. The scarcity of money is one cause of the decline, some leaving through mere poverty. But our ambition is to make good scholars rather than add to our numbers, and in this we mean not to be outdone by any college in New England. Persever- ance in the system we have adopted will eventually give reputation to this Institution in the view of all who prefer the useful to the showy." An extract from the inaugural address of President Hopkins, nearly forty years later, will show that the College then maintained its early character : WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE, 43 " I have no ambition to build up here what would be called a great institution ; the wants of the community do not re- x quire it. But I do desire, and shall labor, that this may be a safe College ; that its reputation may be sustained and . raised still higher ; that the plan of instruction I have in- dicated may be carried out more fully ; that here there may be health, and cheerful study, and kind feelings, and pure morals ; and that, in the memory of future students, college life may be made a still more verdant spot." The promi- nent characteristics of the College during Dr. Hopkins' long administration, as well as from the Ijeginning, could hardly be better expressed tlian by those words of his, " health, clieerful study, kind feelings, and pure morals." The situ- ation of the College among the far-famed hills of Berkshire is evidently favorable to health ; and all who know anything of it know that during the protracted and distinguished ad- ministration to which we have just alluded, the College has had an enviable reputation as a place where the students have been interested in their studies, and, in general, have been faithful in their work; where the moral tone of life has been high, and where the instructors have sought to blend the offices of teacher and friend, having the true conception of education, as the drawing out — c-du.co — what is in the pupil, the development of his own powers rather than the endeavor to clothe him with the mantle of another's knowledge or ac- complislinients. These characteristics of the College have continued to mark it also under the more recent adminis- trations. It speaks well also for the College and the character of its instruction that a larger portion of the College text-books now in general use have been prepared by the professors in this institution than by those of any other college, with the possible exception of Yale and Harvard, Quality rather than quantity has been the aim of Will- iams. She has not undertaken to be a University, nor to advertise herself by the numbers that might be drawn to her halls. Calling herself a College, she has aimed to do 44 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. the appropriate work of a College, but to do that work in the best and most effective manner. One would be safe in saying that in no college is the re- ligious atmosphere more perceptible or more wholesome than at Williams. Free alike from cant and bigotry, from looseness and indifference, the religious tone of the College is pure and healthful as the mountain air which her students breathe. It is, moreover, not the least of the distinctions of this institution that, while a large portion of her students have been persons of avowedly Christian character, the first movement in our country for the Christianization of the heathen w^orld also had its origin here. The stranger who visits Williamstown and asks for its most interesting objects will be directed to Mission Park. As he enters its quiet and beautiful seclusion, a marble monument, surmounted by a massive globe — with the continents and the islands of the sea boldly outlined on its surface — emblematic of the world- wide reach of their enterprise, marks the spot where Mills and Richards and Hall and Nott, with their associates, met from time to time, in the early dtiys of the College, to ponder and pray over that Divine Commission, " Go ye into all the world and preach the Gospel to every creature." In those I)onderings and prayers originated our great Board of Foreign Missions, and also the American Bible Society. And now, among all the gatherings and attractive scenes which mark Commencement-week, there is none of more delightful and at the same time profound interest than the assembly around that monument in the park on the Sabbath afternoon, when, for an hour, amid the utterances of prayer and song, and the words of one and another veteran returned from the distant mission fields of the world, the heart is touched with a sense of the sublimest work which this earth knows. Among the special characteristics of the College which grew out of old Fort Massachusetts, whose commander was wont to lament his deficient early education, one of the most prominent is its devotion to the study of the Natural Sciences. Whether owing to the ai^propriate influence of WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIA.MS COLLEGE. 45 MISSION PARK MONUMENT. 46 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. the peculiar location of the College amid scenery of the most attractive character, or to other causes, it is a fact that it has had in its faculty, from an early date, teachers who have heen ardently devoted to the study of nature, and who by their OAvn enthusiasm have kindled a love of this study in many of their pupils. Early in the present century the study of chemistry and natural philosophy was made prom- inent and attractive in connection with the lectures and illustrative experiments of Professor Dewey. A few years later, lectures on mineralogy, geology, and botany were given by that eminent teacher of these sciences. Professor Amos Eaton, who was a pioneer in these departments of study, and did as much, perhaps, as any one to popularize science in this country. He was an enthusiast. His ardent love of natural science, especially of botany, led him to re- linquish the profession of the law, in which he was engaged, and devote himself to the study of nature. He was among the first in this country to teach the sciences, not only in the class-room, but in the open field. He was accustomed to take his classes with him on explorations for the study of the rocks and plants in the homes where nature had placed them. For several years there existed among the students a so- ciety called the " Linnfean Society." This gave way to the " Lyceum of Natural History," the avowed object of which is " the study of the natural sciences, and the prosecution of antiquarian research." This society has become one of the permanent organizations of the College. It occupies a spa- cious brick building, erected for its use by the late Nathan Jackson, of New York. Here the society has gathered a large collection of specimens in the various departments of natural history. Here also it holds regular meetings, and in rooms adjoining the museum its members carry on their investigations, and engage in the practical work incidental to their studies. The society has been accustomed also, under the lead often of one or more of the professors in the College, to make explorations, sometimes in quite distant WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 47 JACKSON HALL. 48 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. regions, for the purjDose of prosecuting its studies and mak- ing discoveries. The late Professor Albert Hopkins, brother of President Hopkins, who was an ardent and devout stu- dent of nature, often went on such expeditions, both near and remote ; and President Chadbourne, when a professor, went with the society to Florida, and on another occasion led an expedition to Greenland. The late Professor Ten- ney was on his way to the Rock}^ Mountains, a few years ago, with another party, when his sudden death put an end to the expedition. It is worthy of mention, also, that the first Observatory erected in this country for astronomical purposes was built here. It was erected through the personal influence, and mainly at the expense, of Professor Hopkins, whose devout and saintly spirit, carrying religion into all the affairs of life, inscribed such texts of Scripture as this over the door of the Observatory : " For thus saith the Lord of Hosts, Yet once, it is a little while, and I will shake the heavens, and the earth, and the sea, and the dry land." On the marble face of the sun-dial, which stands by the southern door of the Observatory, one reads also, cut in deep letters, this question of our Lord : " How is it that ye do not discern this time?" Hawthorne mentions this dial, in his chronicles of a visit to Berkshire. Speaking of the marble-working at Adams, he says, in his Note-Book : " At one shop for man- ufacturing the marble, I saw the disk of a sun-dial as large as the top of a hogshead ; intended for Williams College." The New England Journal of Education has recently pub- lished, from data furnished by the secretary of Tufts Col- lege, a table showing the proj^ortion of time given to the re- quired studies in ten New England colleges. From this it appears that while Williams gives just about the average time to the ancient and modern languages, 37.5 per cent., she gives to natural history 10.9, the next highest on the list giving only 7.6, and the general average of the ten col- leges being only 4.G. In ethics, again, Williams gives 10.8, the next highest being 5.7, and the general average 4.2. In WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 49 THE ODSERVATORY. o 50 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. philosophy and history studies, including political econom}^, Williams gives 29.8, the next highest giving 23.1, and the general average being 17.3. This table indicates at a glance the fact that while Wil- liams has given the natural sciences an eminent place, it has given to mental and moral science a pre-eminent one. Under the administration of such a man as President Hop- kins, it could hardly have been otherwise. Indisputably one of the foremost philosophic thinkers of our country since the time of Edwards, and combining with great mental acumen remarkable aptitude as a teacher, it was almost a matter of course that in his hands philosophic studies should have a place of more than usual prominence. Accordingly, dur- ing the almost forty years of his presidency over the college, while other studies failed not to receive due attention, or other sciences proper regard, the Science of Man had a place which, so far as we know, has nowhere else been accorded to it. In the college curriculum here, while the Senior year has been almost wholly given to this highest science, as the fitting crown of a collegiate course, the study of it begins with that course, Dr. Hopkins having been accustomed to give the Freshman Class a series of lectures on physiology and the laws of health. His own early training for the med- ical profession prepared him to do this with unusual interest and effect. The influence, also, of this early training upon his way of looking at the ftT,cts of mental and moral science may have aided him in the construction of a system of philosophy so broad and self-consistent, and so completely in liarmony with fact in all departments of knowledge, that it may well be termed a universal philosophy. Dr. Hopkins has not been willing that metaphysics should stand for something intelligible only to the learned few, while inex- plicable to the common mind. On the contrar}'^, he has held that the facts of the mind and the laws of its operation, it being nearest of all things to man, may be known by all with as much certainty as the facts and laws of the outward and remoter world. So he has fearlessly taken his students WILLI AMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 51 into this realm of study, and accustomed tliem to Ijc at home with themselves, and while seeing the harmony of all knowledge, to see that the knowledge of themselves is the highest of all, and that " The proper study of mankind is man." So far, indeed, has he carried his views of the simplicity and intelligibility of these higher sciences, that he has been accustomed to teach them on the blackboard as one would arithmetic. And his success with this method in the class- room had been such, and his confidence in the system, tliat he ventured a few years ago to give a popular course of metaphysics before the Lowell Institute, illustrated by dia- grams in the same way. The experiment was successful, and the phonographic report of those unwritten lectures now constitutes that remarkable volume, An Outline Study of Man; or, The Body and Mind in One System, whicli has become a text-book in so many of our colleges. It is a small volume in comparison with many which treat of the same subject, but it may be said to condense in itself a comjilete system of philosophy. Anyone who reads it, and considers that such a course of instruction, only greatly expanded, and a similar course in moral science, occupy a large i)or- tion of the time during the entire Senior year, will under- stand liow rich that year is to the students at Williams. Many a graduate looks back to it as the most memorable year of his life. That Senior recitation-room, the throne of the presidency during Dr. Hopkins' long incumbency of the office, and where, although he has laid down tlie seals of authority, he still presides in a most important sense, and so long as he continues to teach will preside by the regal sway of thought and character which he exercises, makes one think of the old Platonic Academ}^ or Socrates in friendly converse with his pupils, rather than of the ordinary class- room. The glory of that room has been that tliere tlie freest inquiry has been encouraged, and the students taught to see and think for themselves, to call no man master, but 52 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. to seek and welcome the truth as that for which they were made. It is noticeable that there is a peculiarly warm and deep feeling on the part of the alumni of Williams towards their College, and it seems to us to be explained only by this sense that here their manhood was revealed to them and developed. No one cherished a warmer regard for his alma mater than did our late President Garfield for this the College of his choice, and to whose anniversary he w^as coming in filial spirit when he received his fatal wound, nor was this filial spirit ever more warmly reciprocated than by the feeling which went out from Williams towards her most distin- guished alumnus. But Williams is not shut up to the exceptional boast of the late President of the Nation among her alumni. Her sons are found in full share in the places of honor and power. Of the select company comj^osing the Supreme Court of the country she claims Justice Field. Another of her sons. Judge Betts, long presided over the District Court of New York, while of the judges and chief justices of the State courts, from Vermont to California, her catalogue fur- nishes a long and worthy roll. In the halls of Congress, and in the professions of law, medicine, and theology, she has been represented by many of national reputation. No col- lege, perhaps, has been oftener or more ably represented in the editorial chair. She has not only well supplied her own offices of instruction, but has furnished professors and presi- dents to other colleges in this and other lands. Williams presides to-day in the University of Wisconsin, and no name stands higher in the Department of Linguistics than that of William D. Whitney, now holding a chair at Yale. As writers on political economy, Professor Perry and Hon. David A. Wells have a reputation that reaches beyond their own country, while in poetry and general literature no name is more honored than that of William Cullen Bryant. During the administration of President Chadbourne, so WILUAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. Oo GOODRICH HALL. 54 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. well known both as a teacher and for his great executive ability, several new buildings were erected, and old ones were made to put on a more attractive appearance, and the College grounds to show the results of a more watchful care. Graduates of a few years ago would hardly recognize the new chapel with its added transept, its frescoed walls and cushioned seats, and beautiful memorial windows. The student societies have also erected several elegant and taste- ful buildings, which have contributed much to the outward appearance of the College and the village of which it forms a part. Goodrich Hall, one of the finest of the College buildings at the present time, was a gift from the Hon. John Z. Good- rich, of Stockbridge, who has been one of the most liberal pecuniary benefactors of the College. It was intended to contain rooms for the professor cf chemistry and physics, and a recitation-room for the mathematical classes, while the upper story, with its high Gothic roof, furnishes a most ample and well-provided gymnasium. Clark Hall, in point of construction, is the finest of the College buildings. It was the gift of the late Edward Clark, Esq., of New York, an alumnus and Trustee of the College. It was designed chiefly to furnish a place of safe deposit for the Wilder mineralogical cabinet, which had been secured to the College by the liberality of Mr. Clark, while provision was also made in it for the preservation of the College archives. No expense was spared in its construction. Built of stone and iron, so as to be fire-proof, its exterior shows the most thorough workmanship. The interior is finished with simplicit}^, but with elegance. The floor is of Spanish tiles, resting upon iron supports and brick arches. The doors are of solid oak. The cases containing the cabinet of minerals are of mahogany^ with massive plate-glass doors. In 1882 was completed the new Astronomical Observa- tory, designed to supplement the old Observatory, the first college building of this character erected in our country, but which is no longer sufficient to afford the necessary in- WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. b'o CLARK HALL. o 5G WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. struction in astronomy, and enable the professor in this de- i^artment of science to make adequate observations. The new Observatory is situated on an eminence a little removed from the general range of college buildings in a southwest direction. It is an iron building, and was designed mainly for the accommodation of the meridian circle, one of the finest in the country, made by Messrs. Repsold and Sons, of Hamburg. For this instrument, as well as for the building which contains it, the College is indebted to the Hon. David Dudley Field, who has at various times been one of its most liberal benefactors. The most recent addition to the buildings of the College, and coeval with the administration of President Carter, is that of Morgan Hall, the gift of the late ex-Governor, E. D. Morgan, of New York, who, as a native of Berkshire, was naturally interested in the College, but who did not live to see the completion of the fine building for whose erection he had made provision. 56 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. ;ible the proffsssor in this de iiiato obsfTvations. Th; •...::. ., . ... oininence a little remove- . • of college buildings in a south we;-: I building, and was designed mainlN i of the meridian circle, one of th- . ?.c1e hy Messrs. Repsold and Sons, o: it, as well as for the buildin /. . indebted to the Hon. Davi(i ■I- times beer, one of its most i.he buildings of tlie (Jolii- ution of President Carter, ■ the late ex-Governor, E. i' •e of Berkshire, wa>- '' 'o did not live ti. , whose erection I MORGAN IIAI.I. o CHAPTER VIII. Past and Present. Tlie contrast between the Williamstown of to-day and its site wlien Colonel Williams made his will, which gave name to the i)lace and existence to the Free School and then to the College, is great indeed. Then the region was literally a wilderness. It was so far removed from any considerable settlements that, as we have seen, it was hardly recognized as belonging to New England. When Williams started on the fatal expedition to Crown Point, there was only a little hamlet here of eleven settlers, who were able to hold their ground and make homos for themselves under the protec- tion of the fort near by, and the further protection of a block-house which stood near where is now the house of Mrs. Hosford, on the north side of the Park. Here was the center of the then border settlement. Happily for us to-day^ in the original disposition of the ground of the new town- ship, the si.xty-three home lots were laid out along a road-way of the remarkable width of sixteen rods, and stretching westward from Green River for a full mile. The first house built here stood upon the ground now occupied b}' Mr. Noyes, a little west of the Park. It was subsequently removed from that site, and a portion of it may now be found in what is known as Charityville, constituting a part of the first house on the right hand after crossing the bridge on the road leading up the Northwest Hill. Fortunately the town now has in its keeping the records of the settlement before it bore the name of Williams. There is a volume in the custody of the town clerk, the title-page of which reads, " Proprietor's Book of the west Township at Hoosuck," with the addition, " Said Town Ship in Corporated by the Name of Williams Town in the year A. D. 17G5." Those were the days of the beginning of things, when the 8 57 58 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. school-master had not got abroad much, and people wrote and spelled every one according to his liking. The first entry in this early record book runs as follows : "Province of the Massachusetts Bay. On the petition of Isaac Wyman and others subscribers in behalf of themselves and others Proprietors of the west Township at Hoosuck. " In the House of Representatives, Sept. 10, 1753. Read and voted that William Williams Esq'r one of his majesty's Justices of the peace for the County of Hampshire Issue his warrant for Calling a meeting of proprietors of the west Township at Hoosuck so called Directed to one of the principal proprietors of said Township Requiring him to set up a notification in some public place in said Township setting Forth the time place and occasion of said meeting fourteen Days Beforehand which meeting shall be holden in said Township and such of the Proprietors as shall be present at said meeting are hereby authorized and impow- ered by a major vote to Determine upon a Division of all or part of the lands in said Township not all ready allotted also to clioose a Committee or Committees to la}' out the same allso to Raise monies to Defray the charges that may arise by means of laying out said land also for Clearing Highways. as also to Chuse proprietors Clerk Treasurer assessors & Collectors and also to agree and determine upon a method for calling meetings of said proprietors for the future. Sent up for Concurrence. F. Hubbard Spkr. In Counciel September 10 1753. Red and Concurd. Thos. Clerk Depty Secry. Consented to W. Shirley a true Cop}' p Thos. Clerk, Depty Secty." " William Williams Esq. of Pontoosuck issued such warrant Nov. 15 1753 warning a meeting of proi)rietors to be held at the house of Seth Hudson * on the 5th of Dec. at 9. A. M. * The first house built in Williamstown. WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 59 At saifl iiicctiiig Allen Curtise chosen Moderator. Isaac Wyman " props. Clerk. Voted to lay out all the medowland lying ui)on the main River and the niedovv land Lying ui)on green river as far as the first Brook or Creek in equal purposhon to Each Right in said Township and one hundred acres of upland to each Right ajoining to the medow land or as Near as they Can to Lay out the best land. Allen Curtise Scth Hudson Jonathan Medium Ezekiel Foster Jabiz Worrin committee to lay out the land. Voted to raise a rate of Eight Shillings upon Each pro- ])rietors Right to pay Charges of laying out. the above said votes paist in a Legial manor Test — Allen Cuktise moderator of said mcetin. Isaac Wyman Prop's Clerk." In addition to the home lots originally laid out by direc- tion of the Legislature, the entire township was divided into seven sections, a i)ortion of each of which was assigned to each proprietor of a home lot. These subdivisions were known as Pine Lots, Oak Lots, Meadow Lots, &c. Tlie second meeting of the Proj)rietors was held on the 18th of April, 1754. The exigencies of a new settlement are indicated by the objects for wliicli the meeting was called. It was called " to see if the pro's will agree upon some man or men to builda grist mill and a saw mill and what bounty they will give for the incuragement of the building of the same." " To see if the proprietors will agree upon some place for a burying place and clear a part of the same. " To see if the Propr's will have the gospel Preach in this town this summer or some part of it and if so to choose a committee to bring in some authordoxt minister to preach the gospel." 60 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. The Warning for this meeting concludes as follows : " Which meeting is to be on Thirsday the Eighteenth of this Instant at Nine of the Clock in the four noon and such of the Propr's as Shall assemble and meet at s'd time and place are hearby impowred to act on all or part of the four going articles. " Dated at Fort Massachusetts April 5th 1754. Isaac Wyman Propr's Clerk." It is worthy of notice that the Warning of this meeting, as well as that of the third meeting of the proprietors, held May 15th of the same year, was dated at Fort Massachusetts. Isaac Wyman, the Clerk by whom the meetings were called was a Lieutenant, and stationed at the fort. It shows the intimate connection between the fort and the little company of settlers in what was then known as West Hoosuck. The names of eight soldiers at least, also appear on the list of the original proprietors of the township. It was a military settlement in an important sense. No meeting of the proprietors seems to have been held from 1754 until October, 1760. Then it was voted " to clear the street east and west as far as the Town Lots extend, and north and south from Stone Hill to the River." At a meeting in March, 1762, on the article " to see whether they would raise money to hire preaching," the record says : " article of raiseing money to hire preaching tryed voted in ye Nagetive." A year afterwards, however, it was voted " to have preaching for the future." It was also voted " to raise 12 shillings on each propr's rite to defray the expense of preaching." Two months afterwards they " voted Asa Johnson's account of nine days for going after a minister £3-12." In 1763 the settlement had got on so far as to have a school house, and the proprietors' meetings began to be held there instead of at the fort or private houses as formerly. WILLI AMSTOWX AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 61 111 1764 it was voted " to build a bridge over Green river at the east end of tlic town street." This " town street," our Main street, being Uiid out orig- inally by the Legislature and not, as usual, by the town^ dillers from ordinary streets in that it does not belong to the adjoinijig proprietors — the public having merely the right of travel over it — but it belongs wholly to the town, the adjacent proprietors having no right of ownership in it. The next year Mr. Benjamin Simonds was appointed a committee for the purpose of procuring for the proprietors a copy of Colonel Williams' will. It was also voted to give Mr. Whitman Welsh a call to the work of the ministry. £80 were voted him as a " settlement," one half the first year and one half the second. He was also promised £70 salary, beginning with £-10 the two first years, and increas- ing £3 a year till £70 was reached. In the small Book of Surveys, which was kei)t by the pro- prietors, the names of men with military titles are conspicu- ously frequent, showing the intimate connection of the new settlement with Fort Massachusetts. Apart from the private soldiers we find the names not only of Col. Williams him- self, who, as we have seen, became one of the original pro- prietors, but of Col. Oliver Partridge, Cap. Elisha Chapin, and Lieutenants Isaac Wyman, Moses Graves, Samuel Brown, Elisha Hawley, and Obadiah Dickinson. Williamstown in the olden time was little other tlian a military station, with some outlying fields coming little by little under tillage. It was possible for the early settlers to maintain themselves so far from the protection of Fort Massachusetts as our village, four miles perhaps, only as they built a military defense here. This was a block-house, situated a little north of our present Park, nearly where Mrs. Hosford's house now stands, or between it and the Kappa Alpha Lodge. It had a picketed enclosure connected with it into which, in an emergency, the settlers could flee for safety. This they had occasion repeatedly to do. The block -house was assaulted more than once by the Indians, and several of the settlers lost their lives by stealthy attack. 62 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. The change is great indeed from the wilderness and the strife of little more than a century ago to the cultured beauty and the serene peacefulness of the present. By one of the most notable engineering feats of the cen- tury, the Hoosac Mountain near by has been pierced by a tunnel, and now more than thirty railway trains pass daily within sight of the students as they look from their win- dows, and within a stone's-throw of the old fort out of which the College has grown. The hidden village of the Free School is no longer shut in among the hills. The gateways of approach have been opened, and it is accessible to the world. Ever}^ morning the palace car rolls by, which the evening but one before left St. Louis, a city of half a million souls, the very site of which was unknown when Williams made his bequest and endowed the College. Beautiful in its natural site. Art and Culture have been perfecting the appearance of the village. Noble lines of trees shade and beautify its broad avenue, as it sweeps over one elevation after another for the distance of more than a mile. Within a few years the width of this avenue has been increased by the removal of the fences which formerly bordered it, so that it seems to form one continuous park. The passing traveller expresses surprise at the discovery of such unexpected and unsurpassed beauty, and prolongs his stay, and year by year the denizens of pent-up cities come in increasing numbers to enjoy rest of body and mind in this new-found Arcadia- It would be difficult to name an institution of learning more favorably situated in point of natural scenery than the College which bears the name of the hero of Fort Massa- chusetts. If, instead of leaving his property to endow a Free School at a spot so far beyond the recognized bounds of civilization that Norton, in his^'Redeemed Captive," snys that tlie French and Indians, in their attack upon the fort, sent some to creep up as near as they could "to observe whether any persons attempted to make their escape, to carry tid- ings to New England," he had looked forward a hundred years and more, and chosen, out of our now wide and pojui- lous territory, a site for a college, he could not have chosen I WILLIAMSTOWN AND WIIJJA^IS COLLEGE. 63 64 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. more wisely than he did. In a fertile and beautiful valley, threaded by silvery streams, surrounded by the lofty ranges of the Taghconic and Green Mountains, Graylock lifting its hoary summit above every peak in the commonwealth, there is everything in the situation to attract the eye and cultivate the best feelings. Every season, every day and hour, has here its own peculiar charm. There is a perpetual change and variety of scene. Nature never repeats herself, but is constantly turning her kaleidoscopic glass and presenting fresh surprises. On the College grounds, and within a stone's-throw of the students' windows, is Christmas Lake, with its fringe of ever- greens; while less than a mile away is Flora's Glen — a wild and beautiful spot, where tradition says Bryant first brooded over his " Thanatopsis." Going up the glen, if one cares to ascend higher, the summits of Mount Hopkins and Peters- burg invite him to points where the eye ranges from the Catskills to the Adirondacks, the Hudson gleaming at inter- vals in the distance. Opposite is the Hopper, with its deep gorges, its massive sweeps of foliage, its wondrous play of light and shade, and its wild wood-road to the flank of Graylock and the camping ground where, summer after summer, in its pure ether, and amid its babbling brooks, many find a delightful change of scene and great refresh- ment both of body and mind. No more beautiful or healthful surroundings for the stu- dent could be found. Shut away from the noise and temp- tations of city and town life, in the calm seclusion of this, Nature's own retreat, no circumstances could be more favor- able for the successful prosecution of the scholar's work. And so, perhaps, the hero of Fort Massachusetts " builded better than he knew " when, in the Free School of West Hoosac, he established another and a better Fortress, one not of arms and military enginery, but of moral and intellect- ual equipment, to guard society from the assaults of ignor- ance, superstition, and a vain materialism, and to preserve to the nation and the world the best possessions of intelli- gence and virtue. CHAPTER IX. Neighboring Attractions. Interesting as Williamstown is, both for its history and on account of its natural attractions, the visitor finds him- self in the center of a wide region of beauty and attractive- ness. The whole county of Berkshire is famous for its scener}', and it is all within easy reach of Williamstown. Close at home the drive of the Oblong, as it is called, takes one along the valley of the Green River and through the lovely scenery of South Williamstown, a distance of four or five miles, where, in an appropriately pleasant, quiet situa- tion, is Mr. Mills' Family School for Boys, which often num- bers more than a hundred pupils, a miniature college by itself, and which has been widely known for more than thirty years as one of the best schools of the country. It is but a ride of two hours on the railway, or the pleasant drive of a day by carriage-road, to Sheffield, on the southern limit of the county, where Mt. Everett lifts its majestic bulk in rivalry wath Graylock itself Stockbridge, the home of the Sedgwicks, the Fields, and other distinguished persons, un- surpassed for its quiet, natural beauty and the cultured taste of its people, which seems to go hand in hand with nature ; famous as an Indian Mission in early daj-'s, where Jonathan Edwards preached to the red men, while at the same time he was writing for the whites his celebrated treatise on the Freedom of the Will ; and Lenox, the fashionable summer resort and home of so many, where Hawthorne wrote and Holmes sung in other days — these shrines of beauty and abodes of genius are on the same route of travel, btit less distant. On the north again, Bennington, the site of one of the most important battles of the Revolution, and now marked by its appropriate monument, is less than twenty miles away, 9 6s 66 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. and from its heights the eye sweeps over a wide range of mountain and valley and winding stream from Lake Cham- plain to the Catskills. Leading east and west from Wil- liamstown, the valleys of the Deerfield and Hoosac rivers offer to the traveler scenery seldom surpassed for beauty, while the great line of railwa}'', which has excavated its famous tunnel under the Hoosac Mountain, offers quick and easy transit several times a da}^ to the Hudson on the one hand, and to the Connecticut and Boston Bay on the other. It is but two hours' ride to Saratoga, with its unceasing and unequalled attractions of fountain and fashion, of health K and pleasure. Lebanon Springs, with its quaint Quaker life and peculiar religious ceremonial, and Hancock, offer a motive for a favorite drive of a few hours, every mile of which is stored with pleasant views as one passes along the shaded mountain road, or by the silvery streams that wind through the valleys and murmur as they lapse from stone to stone. Nearer home, and almost, indeed, quite within reach of the pedestrian, are the Cascade, the Natural Bridge,* the Snow Hole upon the summit of Petersburg Mountain, Mount Hopkins, from which the sheen of the distant Hudson flashes back upon the sight and the purple light of the Catskills is * Hawthorne once spent several days in the vicinity of the Natural Bridge, and thus speaks of it in his American Note-Books : " It is not properly a cave, but a fissure in a huge ledge of marble, through which a stream has been for ages for- cing its way, and has left marks of its gradually wearing power on the tall crags, having made curious hollows from the summit down to the level which it has reached at the present day. * * * After passing through this romantic and most picturesque spot, the stream goes onward to turn factories. Here its voice resounds within the hollow crags; there it goes onward, talking to itself, with babbling din, of its own wild thoughts and fantasies — the voice of solitude and the wilderness — loud and continued, but which yet does not seem to disturb the thoughtful wanderer, so that he forgets there is a noise. It talks along its storm- worn path ; it talks beneath tall precipices and high banks — a voice that has been the same for innumerable ages ; and yet, if you listen, you will perceive a con- tinual change and variety in its babble, and sometimes it seems to swell louder upon the ear than at others — in the same spot, I mean." WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. C7 68 WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. seen ; the quiet of Flora's and of Ford's Glens ; the rugged climb up Graylock with its massive forests and the far-stretching outlook from its lofty summit ; the broad expanse of Bald Mountain, that sweet meadow two thousand feet in air bor- dered by its fragrant pines — these and the many other walks and drives which the mountains and valleys afford in every direction. All tastes may be gratified. The variety of scene offers fresh attractions for every day, one might say for every hour, and each season has its peculiar charms. The residents of Williamstown, and of the entire Berk- shire region, feel that "the lines have fallen to them in pleasant places, and that they have a goodly heritage." More and more, travelers through this picturesque country are disposed to linger amid its delightful scenery. The " summer visitors," as they are called, are wont to protract their stay beyond the summer, even till October fills the valleys with her golden light, and overspreads the hills with her many-hued mantle, and the ripened year sits regnant on her throne of beauty. The denizens of the crowded cities, in increasing numbers, are building cottages and mansions on the Berkshire hillsides, content to come year after year, with their families, to the same spot and make it their fixed abode during the warm season, and whenever the cares of the city's busy life will allow. WILLIAMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 09 CHAPTER X. Present Character and Condition of the College. In the 3'ear 1881, President Chadbourne, after nine years of service, resigned the presidency of the College, and Frank- lin Carter was elected to fill the vacant place. President Carter had been a professor in the College ten years before, but at the time of his election to the presidency held a pro- fessor's chair at Yale. Originally a student at Yale, which from considerations of health he felt obliged to exchange for Williams, where he graduated, and having been a pro- fessor in both institutions, he brought to his new office the best sentiments and traditions of both, and recalled to mind the early days of the College when the venerable institution of New Haven was so largely represented in the Board of Trustees of Williams. With the accession of President Carter some changes were made in the corps of instruction, and in the arrangement of studies. No essential change, however, has been made in the character or methods of the College. It remains essen- tially the same that it has been, its trustees and faculty of instruction being satisfied with the course which has been pursued hitherto, and anxious only to maintain that course with whatever additional efficacy and success additional experience and new op})ortunities may give. One who has every reason to know of what he s})eaks saj^s, "The aim of Williams College is to secure to each graduate a training of all the mental faculties, and thus to furnish a general education as a preparation for a useful life. The College cannot claim such facilities as are necessary for the develop- ment of first-class specialists, but it may claim that its course of study as conducted by an excellent corps of teachers is well suited to give a solid basis for professional life. It is claimed peculiarly that the instruction in phi- 70 WILLI AMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. 71 losophy ])y the distinguished Ex-President Rev. Dr. Mark- Hopkins has proved to he of the greatest service to such of the graduates as have entered the ministry, and has, indeed, turned many into that particular field of professional life. In several of the other departments the teaching has re- cently become more thorougii, and both real accjuisition and patient thinking are now necessary to secure its degree. In the senior year a variety of electives allows the students to establish a more direct connection with his subsequent studies than was formerly the case, but the College remains substantially a College, with an enforced curriculum, and is not as };et even an embryo university. It is, however, true that both natural science and the modern languages receive more attention and a larger share of time than in most of the older New England colleges. A special feature in the college management has, for many years., been the assist- ance given to poor, worthy young men. But no student is assisted whose scholarship is not respectable. The location of the College secures comparative freedom from tem])tation, and the development of a pure character in each student has always been regarded by the ofhccrs as of the utmost importance. It is intended that the dii)loma shall signify that its recipient has a good moral character. " Williams College is a religious institution, a Christian col- lege. Though the College was at first mainly under Con- gregational ist influence, its Board of Trustees is non-sec- tarian, and contains at present more Presbyterians and ^ Episcopalians taken together than Congregationalists. Sim- ilar proportions of religious belief exist probably among the students. But all its officers are Christian theists,. and the College is held steadily to Christian observances and a Christian faith." Through tlie considerate liberality of its graduates and other friends, the College is very well endowed with scholar- ships and scholarship and prize funds, which are offered as incentives to excellence in the various departments of study. The competition for these exerts a pleasant and healthful 72 WILLIAMSTOVVN AND WILLIAMS COLLEGE. influence upon the general ongoing of the College, and the public oratorical contests for some of the prizes form a marked feature of the College life, and are occasions of much interest to many outside of the student circle. The College Catalogue for the current year bears on its roll the names of two hundred and seventy-five students, the freshman class numbering seventy-five. The teaching Faculty of the College is composed as fol- lows : Franklin Carter, Ph. D., LL. D., President, and Professor of Natural Theology. Rev. Mark Hopkins, D. D., LL. D., Ex-President, Professor of Christian Theology and of Moral and Intellectual Philosophy. Rev. Arthur Latham Perry, D. D., LL. D., Professor of History and Political Economy. Truman Henry Safford, Ph. D., Professor of Astronomy, and Librarian. Cyrus Morris Dodd, M. A., Professor of Mathematics. John Hasker Hewitt, M. A., Professor of the Ancient Languages. Rev. Edward Herkick Griffin, D. D., Professor of Rhetoric. Rev. John Henry Denison, B. A., Pastor of the College Church. Orlando Marcellus Fernald, M. A., Professor of the Greek Language and Literature, and Sec- retary of the Faculty. WILLI AMSTOWN AND WILLIAMS COLLl-XtE. 73 Frederick Leake, M. A., Instructor in French. Granville Stanley Hall, Ph. D., Lecturer on the History of Philosoi)liy. Richard Austin Rice, M. A., Professor of Modern Languages and Literatures. Luther Dana Woodbridge, M. D., Lecturer on Hygiene. Leverett Mears, Ph. D., Professor of Physics and Chemistry. Samuel Fessenden Clarke, Ph. D., Professor of Natural History. Herbert Weir Smyth, B. A., Instructor in Latin and Sanskrit. Edmund Beecher Wilson, Pli. D., Lecturer on Biology. Bliss Perry, B. A., Instructor in Elocution and English. Frederick Jennings Parsons, B. A., Instructor in French and Geometr3^ The following Order of Studies, as taken from the College Catalogue, will show the scope and character of the instruc- tion given : o ORDER OF STUDIES. FRESHMAN YEAR. FIRST TERM. Latin. — Livy, Books XXI and XXII; Smith's Rome and Carthage ; Lectures on the Military and Political Antiquities of Rome; Exercises in Latin Composition. Greek. — Herodotus, {^Marathon, TherniopylcB, Plaiica, Salamis, and Mycale in Fernald's Selections. ) Mathematics. — Loomis's Algebra. Physical Training. — Lectures on health and habits of study. Oratory. — Lectures and individual training in Elocution ; Declamations. SECOND term. Mathematics. — Loomis's Geometry. Latin. — Horace, Odes, and Selections from Catullus ; Lectures on the Private Life and the Religion of the Romans, and on the Poets of the Republic and the Augustan Age; Exercises in Latin Composition. Greek. — Homer's Odyssey, Books IX, X, XI, (Merry's Edition,) with Lec- tures ; Goodwin's Moods and Tenses. Oratory. — Declamations. THIRD term. Mathematics. — Loomis's Trigonometry and Mensuration, Navigation and Sur- veying. Greek. — Demosthenes ( The PJulippics) ; Lectures ; Greek Composition. Latin. — Tacitus, Gemuinia and A^^ricola ; Terence, HeaiUontimorutnenos ; Ex- ercises in Writing Latin. Rhetoric AND Oratory. — Bascom and Morgan's "/"/^z'/ojo//;/ of Rhetoric ;'"' Declamations. SOPHOMORE YEAR. FIRST TERM. Latin. — Juvenal ; Horace, Satires and Epistles. Rhetoric and Oratory. — Earle's English Philology ; Prologue to the Canter- bury Tales ; Compositions ; Orations and individual training in Elocution. Natural History. — Elementary Biology, Lectures; Packard's and Tenney's Manuals. Greek. — Plato, ^/^/cgj and Crito ; Euripides, ^/ -->..^-J> !-> _> "■se» - 5 > c> • ' y ^^ ::>r> >-> _^ : :> 13. /v> >-^^ _>:>:?> ::»»> oi^ :>i»'-:>:i :> > £> 2> ^ :>^: C>_:> >^ i> _:: w y^^M J^=^ -<. -^^ ^> z > > > ^^ >^ ^ ^ ». :>^^ > ■> > "Z^^-II* '^^ ^ > . "> > :>> . 3>:> >^ »- >j:^ -? -^. — - >j>. .>_3P^ Ss-^ :> .» ~^3^ '*>^> "33 ^_I> >I^ J '"i:^ ■ j& > *j:3 • r> '- . 3l:^ > >^ > > ^ >:^ >;:> D ■ "'j> > > > >,::» ■> -J— ^ '^2f> Z> > >z> >S^ 3> > t>^ ^:i> J > :>■ -Z».^ ' ^Z^ ' >:> • ,> > >irs»::> 3->' \^ >z> -> >' >:2>.> ?3>^ :> :::> ■■ ^5> :>- »:^T> >!>'.•. z> :> ■ . 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