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THE 
 
 GREAT EASTEEN'S LOG 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 HER FIRST TEANSATLMTIC YOYAGE, 
 
 ALL PARTICULARS OF HER AMERICAN YISIT. 
 
 AN EXECUTIVE OEFICER, 
 
 I, / 
 
 ^^^ryciCan^^^^ 
 
 
 ''=^'^Wash\nS^°' 
 
 /o LONDON: 
 BRADBURY k EVANS, 11, BGUYERIE STREETc 
 
 1860. 
 
V 
 
 0^ 
 
 LONDON : 
 BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. 
 
INTEODUCTION. 
 
 Believing the Great Eastern to have enlisted the sympa- 
 thies of the British public generally; and I may say of 
 the whole civilised world; I think it not out of place, on 
 the satisfactory completion of her first voyage across the 
 Atlantic, to publish a brief, but plain and unvarnished 
 account of her doings ; and the fact of my having had the 
 honour of assisting in the navigation of this noble specimen 
 of naval architecture to the shores of the New World and 
 back to the Old Countr}^, will, I trust, be a sufficient excuse 
 for my presumption. Therefore, relying on the ever kind 
 indulgence of a British public, I launch my little cock- 
 boat on the sea of public opinion, hoping due allowance 
 will be made for one who now makes this his first attempt 
 
 to breast its waves. 
 
 W. A. W. 
 
THE 
 
 GEEAT EASTEEN'S LOG. 
 
 '' "Who would not brave tlie battle, storm, or wreck, 
 To move the monarch of her peopled deck ?" — Byron. 
 
 * ' Staunch and strong, a goodly vessel 
 That shall laugh at all disaster, 
 And with wave and whirlwind wrestle." — Longfelloav. 
 
 FEELiNa satisfied that there is scarcely an individual in Great 
 Britain who has not heard of, or had the good fortune to Avitness, 
 this stupendous monument of British industry and genius, it is 
 needless for me to enter into details of her building and launch- 
 ing ; but I will, with the reader's permission, accompany him on 
 board, while she is lying snugly at her moorings off Netley Abbey, 
 Southampton Water. 
 
 The Great Eastern was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunei, 
 Esq., and built by Scott Eussell, Esq., the eminent ship-builder 
 of Millwall, London. 
 
 The gentleman selected to command this noble ship, after the 
 melancholy death of the lamented Captain Harrison, was John 
 Yine Hall, well known as a skilful commander of first-class 
 steamers. The eleven executive officers were also all men of con- 
 siderable experience in steam navigation, several of them having 
 been in command. It may interest the reader if I give here a brief 
 description of their various duties. 
 
 The chief officer has charge of the upper deck, rigging, &c., 
 and is also responsible for the general discipline of the ship, 
 under the supervision of the commander. This officer keeps no 
 watch. The second, third, and fourth officers have charge of the 
 watches, assisted by six others, there being always three officers on 
 watch at the same time, thus stationed : the senior on the bridge, 
 one on the look-out forward, and the junior officer of the watch 
 in charge of the steering. There is also a midshipman in each 
 
6 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 watch ; and while at sea two quarter-masters and six seamen at 
 the steering wheels. 
 
 The officer of the lower decks and holds has charge of every- 
 thing below the upper deck, working of the cables, fire arrange- 
 ments, cleanliness of lower decks, &c. The civil officers consist 
 of a surgeon, one assistant-surgeon, and a dispenser ; provedore, 
 purser, three ship's clerks, and one provedore's clerk; these 
 officers, with the exception of the surgeons, were under the super- 
 vision of Mr. Thomas Bold, the commercial manager of the ship. 
 There is a chief engineer in each engine-room, who with eighteen 
 assistant engineers, are under the immediate superintendence of 
 Mr. McLennan, the chief engineer. 
 
 On Saturday the 9th of June, at 2 p.m., the ship slipped from her 
 moorings and proceeded down channel on a trial trip, as far as the 
 Start Point, being again made fast to her moorings at 2 p.m. on 
 the following day. 
 
 The engines worked easily and well; the ship, under easy 
 steam, having made an average rate of twelve and a half knots, or 
 fourteen and a half statute miles per hour throughout. In conse- 
 quence of her satisfactory performance, it M^as decided by the 
 directors that the ship should leave for INew York on the 
 following Saturday, June 16th. Accordingly, on the afternoon 
 of that day, steam was up and everything in readiness for a 
 start ; but in consequence of a strong gale blowing, accompanied 
 with heavy rain, it was impossible to see our way out; it was 
 therefore necessary to delay her sailing till the following morning. 
 
 Among our passengers were the Honourable Captain Carnegie, 
 E. N., Messrs. Gooch and Barber, directors, Mrs. Gooch, Mr. 
 "Wood, the Times' correspondent, Mr. Murphy the New York 
 pilot, two ladies, and thirty-six other gentlemen. 
 
 THE OUTWAED VOYAGE. 
 
 " To the "West, to the West, the land of the Free, 
 Where mighty Missouri rolls down to the sea." — Russel. 
 
 On Sunday, June 17th, 1860, at 8.30 a.m. the Great Eastern 
 slipped from her moorings and effected a clear start, stopping out- 
 side the Needles at 10.40 a.m. to discharge Mr. Bovvyer, the 
 pilot. Light westerly winds, attended with rain up to three 
 o'clock P.M., when the wind veered to N.W., blowing strong: 
 5.15, passed the Start, both engines working very satisfactorily ; 
 at 7 P.M., the fire hoses were screwed to the engine pumps, and 
 led the whole length of the vessel, both on the upper and main 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 7 
 
 decks : this is done every night. Our boats (of which the 
 ship carries twenty-fonr) were all clear for lowering, the crews told 
 off to their stations, and everything seen in readiness in the event 
 of accident ; our good ship in the mean time steaming gaily along 
 at an average rate of twelve knots per hour ; the look-out men 
 from their different stations cheerfully proclaiming each half hour 
 " All's well." It is a beautiful sight to look down from the prow 
 of this huge ship at midnight's dreary hour, and watch the won- 
 drous facility with which she cleaves her irresistible way through 
 the waste of waters ; a fountain, playing about ten feet high before 
 her stem, is all the broken water to be seen around her ; for 
 owing to the great beauty of her lines, she cuts the waves with the 
 ease and quietness of a knife ; her motion being just sufficient to 
 let you know that you have no dead weight beneath your feet, 
 but a ship that 
 
 " Skims the waters like a thing of life, 
 And seems to dare the elements to strife." 
 
 Woe betide the unfortunate vessel that places herself in our 
 path, for her destruction would be inevitable, without, in all pro- 
 bability, our ship sustaining any injury. As an active means 
 of offence the powers of the great ship are hardly to be overrated. 
 Armed with half-a-dozen of Armstrong's guns, which carry a 
 trifle over five miles, she would singly be a match for any ordinary 
 fleet. With superior speed, solidity, and range of fire, under what 
 possible combination of circumstances can it be conceived that she 
 would be other than victorious in any engagement ? and if the talk 
 should be of invasion, what an excellent effect would be pro- 
 duced by the sight of the great ship steaming up mid-channel. 
 Another great desideratum obtained in the Grreat Eastern is 
 the wondrous facility with which she answers her helm. In the 
 words of the late Captain Harrison, " She steers like a pilot-boat." 
 
 During the night, several vessels passed, paying us the greatest 
 respect by giving us a wide berth. 
 
 June ISth. — Moderate winds and cloudy. Passed one vessel 
 this morning bound to the eastward. Noon. Latitude 49° 27' N. 
 Long. 7° 57' W. Eun 300 miles from the Needles. 2 p.m. Moderate 
 breeze from S.E. with cloudy weather. Set all the trysails, foresail, 
 and two fore-topsails, wind freshening with light rain, and gradually 
 veering to the northward. At 11 p.m. blowing a fresh gale, with a 
 considerable sea running. Ship's motion moderate, and very easy. 
 Orders were given to " in square sails," but executing them was 
 quite another matter ; for, with over one hundred men on the yards, 
 it was 5 A.M. the next morning before the sails were fast: 
 they are very difficult to handle on account of their great size, 
 
8 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 also the weight of the heavy rope attached to them. All this is 
 bad enough, but of course the weight of the sails is considerably 
 increased when saturated with rain; hence the great difficulty 
 experienced in furhng them; but by the time a good gale or two 
 has taken out some of the starch and the men work better 
 together, we shall, no doubt, manage well enough. 
 
 June \^tli. — "Wind still blowing fresh from the northward, 
 weather moderately fine ; five trysails and one staysail set. A 
 heavy sea now running; the easy motion of the ship may be 
 understood, when I state, that many of the passengers passed the 
 whole day on the lower deck playing skittles. Another proof of 
 the extraordinary ease with which the ship rolls is the fact, that 
 several tumblers stood the whole day and night on a polished 
 marble table in the smoking-room, without being thrown down. 
 "All's well! " is still the word, engines doing their work easily 
 and steadily ; and it is the general opinion that were the bottom of 
 the ship denuded of the weeds, barnacles, &c., which cling to it, 
 an increase in speed of at least two knots per hour would be 
 the result. It must at the same time be understood that the ship 
 is by no means doing her best ; for, previous to leaving South- 
 ampton, a weight of 5 lbs. was taken ofl" the safety valves of 
 both engines ; consequently, at the best of times, we are that 
 5 lbs. short of steam. The latitude at noon was 48° 43' jS"., and 
 the longitude 16° 14' "W. Course and distance made good, 
 S. 83° W. 296 knots, or 345 statute miles, p.m. Wind the same, 
 with fine weather, although still very cold ; a moderate swell still 
 rolling across the bosom of the broad Atlantic, the great ship 
 acknowledging its presence by rolling very easily, and in a most 
 dignified manner, or, as the sailors express it, " taking her 
 time about it." "We sighted two or three ships during the day ; 
 one an American, passed close to us, standing to the N.E., 
 showing Ist'pendant, No. 5972. The night was fine, the only 
 sound heard to break its monotony being the "All's well!" of 
 the look-out men ; and a cheering sound it is on board a ship at 
 sea, carrying comfort to many a timid heart. 
 
 The 20ifA dawned on us with a continuance of fine weather, and 
 a light northerly wind. At noon our latitude was 47° 50' IN",, and 
 longitude 22° 5*4' W. Distance run, S. 77 W. 284 knots, or 330 
 statute miles. For two hours during the morning the ship had 
 been run on different courses, for the purpose of comparing the 
 compasses, thus detracting from the ship's run about sixteen 
 miles. Towards the afternoon, the wind, which had been gradually 
 shifting, commenced freshening up from the S.S.AY., with a dull, 
 cloudy appearance ; five trysails and one staysail were set to catch 
 a little of it. A betting mania seemed to have seized the 
 
THE GREAT EASTER:t^'s LOG. 9 
 
 passengers to-day. Bets were made upon every conceivable thing, 
 the number of sails that would be seen, number of knots run, of days 
 she would be on her passage ; the wind was not even spared, and 
 many were the bets made as to whether we should have more or 
 less, come a-head or go astern, &c. ; however, at midnight, the 
 wind itself settled the question by blowing the best part of a gale 
 from the southward, accompanied by constant rain, — a matter of no 
 moment to those below, but exceedingly uncomfortable for those 
 on deck. 
 
 Thursday, 21st. — A miserable morning, the wind blowing fresh 
 from the S.W., with thick rainy weather. At 10 a.m., the wind 
 had veered more to the westward, and we were compelled to take 
 in all sail. At noon we found ourselves in latitude 49° 16' N., longi- 
 tude 29° 57' W., having run S. 74° W., 305 knots, or 355 statute 
 miles, making an average of 12f knots per hour, a slight improve- 
 ment, although the want of steam is still badly felt. The ship is 
 labouring under every disadvantage, being some six feet by the 
 stern, and having a very foul bottom, which, with the deficiency of 
 steam, tends materially to decrease her speed. This evening 
 passed away very pleasantly, a Great Eastern harmonic meeting 
 being held in the saloon, Captain Hall adding to the amusement 
 by playing several airs on the flute, accompanied by the cornet-a- 
 piston and piano-forte ; there was also some very tolerable 
 singing. 
 
 " Lights out" at 11 p.m. put an end to the evening's amusements, 
 and was a signal for all hands to bed. The heat in the paddle- 
 engine room is very great, the thermometer standing at 110°, 
 making it very distressing for the engineers on watch. The wind 
 has veered to'the northward, blowing fresh, with squalls, enabling 
 us to make sail, but only for an hour or two, as it again decreased 
 so that the sails had to be once more furled. 
 
 Friday, 22nd. — Strong winds (very variable and squally, from 
 N.AV. to S.W.), with thick weather and heavy rain. Eefore noon 
 the wind veered to N.W., a moderate breeze and tolerably fine 
 weather, but still cold. The crew are employed scraping upper and 
 lower decks, and getting the ship generally as clean as time will 
 permit. At noon our latitude was 44° 51' N., longitude 36° 23' AV., 
 the run S. 73° W., 284 knots or 331 statute miles. During the 
 afternoon — which was fine, with a moderate head-wind — we passed 
 a British barque steering as ourselves, also a ship steering S.AV. 
 The monotony of the afternoon was diversified by some animated 
 foot-races round the deck between American and English com- 
 petitors, the " Lion " gaining the victory over the " Eagle." The 
 principal place of attraction to the passengers is the paddle-engine 
 room skylight, where some of them stand for hours watching the 
 
10 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 revolutions of the huge machinery ; but the dinner-bugle blow- 
 ing, " The Eoast Beef of Old England " has an attraction attached 
 to it which soon clears the deck of all interested parties ; the same 
 interest attaches to the tea-bugle—" Polly Put the Kettle on." 
 
 Saturday, 2Srd. — Light head-winds with thick weather and a 
 drizzling rain — continued so up to noon. The 51bs. pressure was 
 restored to the safety-valves of the paddle-engines, but it was 
 found impossible to do so with the screw-engines, the valves being 
 adjusted from the inside of the boilers ; consequently it could only 
 be done by stopping and blowing-off, which would have taken 
 some hours, and caused too great a detention. The consumption 
 of coal since leaving has averaged 260 tons per day ; this has, of 
 course, lightened the ship, and given more slip to both screw and 
 paddles, averaging about 12 per cent. At noon we were in latitude 
 42° 50' N., longitude 42° 40' W. Distance run 301 knots, 351 
 statute miles. 
 
 P.M. A¥eather still the same, and as we are now on the banks of 
 Newfoundland, and in the latitude where ice may be expected, the 
 thermometer was kept in constant use to test the temperature of 
 the water, which altered in two or three hours from 68° to 53°. 
 This being a sure sign that ice was in the vicinity, and the 
 weather being so thick as to render a look-out useless, Captain 
 Hall prudently determined to keep the ship more to the south- 
 ward, clear of ice ; and, by so doing, set the growlers at work, 
 as by going to the southward we have to contend w^th a strong 
 adverse current, thus giving up all chance of making the passage 
 in ten days; however, "discretion is the better part of valour." 
 The weather continued thick all night, with fresh baffling winds, 
 squally, and very cold, with occasional rain. 
 
 Sunday, 24<th. — Presh northerly winds, and cloudy ; four try- 
 sails, two topsails, and one staysail set ; mustered the ship's com- 
 pany, in blue, at 10.30, a.m. ; tolled the bell for church, and at 11 
 commenced divine service in first dining-saloon, which was per- 
 formed by a clergyman-passenger. At noon we were in latitude 
 41° 2' ISr., longitude 48° 53' W. ; run 300 knots, or 350 statute miles. 
 This, being Sunday, was kept in a manner suitable to the day, the 
 passengers lounging listlessly about the deck, gazing at the work- 
 ing of the machinery, watching the ship's progress through the 
 water, or reading. No irrelevant amusement was indulged in, not 
 even a bet being made, but one and all seemed to be impressed 
 with a wish to " remember the Sabbath day, and keep it holy." 
 
 Exchanged colours with an American schooner ; also a ship 
 standing to the eastward. Toward midnight the wind decreased, 
 and came right a-head. Purled all sails. 
 
 Monday^ 25tJi. — A dead calm, the sun rising over a sea re- 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 11 
 
 sembling glass ; the heavens without a cloud, and the heat, as 
 the sun approached its altitude, such as might be expected in the 
 tropics. We are now evidently in the gulf-stream, contest- 
 ing with its (to us) adverse current of about two miles per hour. 
 Quantities of the yellow gulf-weed, covered with small leaves of 
 the same colour, floating on the surface of the water, gives ample 
 testimony of our whereabouts. Passed several vessels becalmed ; 
 had some considerable trouble with one of our seamen — a big power- 
 ful fellow, an advocate for the use of the knife : placed him in irons, 
 and secured him below, with the intention of discharging him at 
 New York. It is worthy of remark, that there has been a total 
 absence among the passengers of that terrible nausea — sea- 
 sickness ; for, during the whole passage, we have not heard of 
 one case, even among the ladies ; another proof of the steadi- 
 ness with which our good ship " rules the waves." Our latitude, 
 at noon, was 40° 48' JS"., longitude 56° 10' W., and distance run 
 325 knots, or 379 statute miles. At 4 p.m. a light wind sprung 
 up from the S.E., enabling us to set a little canvas to woo its 
 favours. A slight alarm was caused by some of the coals in 
 one of the bunkers becoming heated, and, as was supposed, in 
 danger of ignition. Numerous fire-hoses (always ready) were 
 immediately brought into requisition, but happily were not needed, 
 it being a false alarm. 
 
 Tuesday, 2Qth. — The wind this morning was the same as yester- 
 day, but a thick haze covered the water, rendering it difficult to 
 see any distance a-head of the ship. At noon our latitude was 
 40° 58' N., longitude 63° 31' AV., distance run 335 knots, or 391 
 statute miles ; an average of 14 knots per hour. Passed two vessels, 
 and at 3 p.m. became suddenly enveloped in a thick fog, so thick 
 that no pair of eyes could penetrate further than twenty feet 
 from the vessel. The steam-whistles were all set going as per 
 Admiralty regulations, and such a yelling and screeching as they 
 made surely never was heard ; loud and deep were the curses 
 bestowed on them, and many were the fingers thrust into ears to 
 keep out a portion of the unearthly row ; but it was no use, 
 the fog would continue, steam-whistles would scream, so there 
 was nothing for it but to grin and bear it with Christian forti- 
 tude. As night approached it became evident to our ever-careful 
 commander, that, for the sake of humanity, speed must be 
 slackened, for collision with any vessel, at our then rate of speed, 
 would have been for her instant destruction ; so, with his usual 
 promptitude, he gave orders for " half speed " on both screw and 
 paddles. Although fully convinced of its necessity, we were all 
 sorry when the order was given, for we had made up our minds 
 that a great run would have been the result of this day's work. 
 
12 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 Towards midnight, at the request of Mr. Murphj, our Nevr York 
 pilot, the engines, for the first time, were stopped, and an 
 attempt made to find bottom with 120 fathoms of line, but without 
 success. After half-an-hour's detention we again proceeded 
 leisurely on our course : the fog continuing the whole of the 
 night. 
 
 Wednesday, 27M. — The fog had cleared up a little, and at 5 a.m. 
 we again stopped and obtained soundings in sixty-five fathoms on 
 St. George's Bank, then proceeding at full speed for our desti- 
 nation. At 10 A.M. the fog had nearly disappeared, the sun again 
 making its appearance; at 11 a.m. ran close by a Ts^ewTork pilot- 
 schooner, they saluted us by dipping their colours and firing a 
 gun. Notwithstanding all our stoppages, going half-speed, &c., 
 we had, up to noon, run the distance of 254 knots or 305 miles, 
 our distance from Sandy Hook being 234 knots or 371 miles. The 
 ship being some seven feet by the stern, it was deemed advisable, 
 before attempting to cross the bar at New York, to bring her, 
 if possible, nearer to an even keel ; accordingly about 800 tons of 
 water were pumped into the fore compartment, which made a slight 
 improvement in her trim. The night was fine, but a thick haze 
 settled over the horizon where the land should have been seen, 
 preventing us catching a glimpse of the coast lights. 
 
 Thursday, 2Sth. — At 4 a.m. stopped and sounded in twenty-one 
 fathoms, proving that we were in the vicinity of the Sandy Hook 
 light-ship, so the engines were kept going quite slowly. As far 
 as distance is concerned, this virtually finishes the voyage ; and 
 taking stoppages into consideration it has been performed in ten- 
 and-a-half days ; but we feel satisfied that under more favourable 
 circumstances three days may be deducted from this time. At 
 6.20 A.M., the Navesink Highlands were barely discernible 
 through the haze. At 7.20 passed the Sandy Hook light-vessel 
 (receiving a salute of two guns from her), and stopped the 
 engines, having to wait till 2.30 p.m., for high water on the bar. 
 A lottery which had been got up during the voyage, by fifty mem- 
 bers, at 10s. each, for the time the light-ship should be passed, 
 was won by two of our officers. During the morning, the following 
 address, drawn up and signed by all the passengers, was presented 
 to Captain Hall — 
 
 " To Captain John Yine Hall. 
 
 ''Great Eastern, June 17, 1S60. 
 
 " Dear Sir, — We, the undersigned passengers, who have the 
 honour of being the first to cross the Atlantic in your magnificent 
 vessel, cannot now, at the conclusion of our pleasant voyage. 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 13 
 
 separate without expressing our opinion of the great merits of 
 this triumph of engineering skill and naval architecture. 
 
 " Our voyage, though fine, has yet (as is generally the case in 
 Atlantic passages) been sufficiently checkered with rough weather 
 to demonstrate that, in point of seaworthiness, the Great Eastern 
 has no equal in the world. We are aware that the incredulity 
 and prejudice which oppose all great undertakings when first 
 attempted have been manifested to an almost unusual extent 
 against this noble vessel. On no point has this feeling been more 
 strongly shown than with regard to her manageability at sea. 
 
 "Her conduct during the brief storm of the 18th and 19th inst,, 
 should put all such fears (if any still exist after this voyage) at 
 rest for ever. 
 
 " Her movements, even when the gale was strongest, were slow 
 and easy, and at all times so much less than those of the best sea- 
 going steamers as to be quite removed from any standard of com- 
 parison. Those who know by experience what an Atlantic passage 
 really is, will appreciate the high praise bestowed when we express 
 our belief that the Great Eastern, in accommodation, safety, and 
 freedom from disturbing motion, is as much superior to ordinary 
 vessels as she surpasses them in magnitude and power. 
 
 " The supposed necessity of working her engines at a low rate 
 of speed for some days has prevented her effecting that rapid 
 passage which we are convinced she can easily accomplish. Yet, 
 from what we have seen, we express our firm belief that the Great 
 Eastern, in proper trim, is capable of making greater speed than 
 has yet been attained at sea. Such a result will be due not more to 
 her unequalled form than to the efficiency and power of her engines. 
 That the latter will always be found equal to their duty is witnessed 
 by the fact that during the whole of our run from Southampton 
 to New York they have worked with the utmost ease and steadi- 
 ness, never requiring even a moment's stoppage for attention or 
 adjustment of anything. We fully appreciate the anxious vigilance 
 which has been exercised by yourself and your officers in all relating 
 to the safety of the ship and the general comfort of the passengers. 
 
 " In taking leave of you we most heartily wish every success to 
 yourself and the noble vessel which you have the distinguished 
 honour to command, and remain, &c." 
 
 Then follow the signatures of all the passengers. 
 
 The answer of Captain Hall was as follows : — 
 
 " To THE ChAIEMATT OF MeETIKG OF PASSEXaERS. 
 
 ** Great Eastern, oflf Sandy Hook, June 28, 1S60. 
 " Dear Sir, — I am very highly gratified with the comprehensive 
 and expressive address which you have just presented to me from 
 
14 THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 
 
 tlie passengers. I value it the more as it so simply, yet justly, 
 points out the peculiar excellencies of the Great Eastern, being 
 at the same time free from undue panegyric, and stating only 
 facts, and opinions based upon those facts. The expression of 
 satisfaction at the endeavour of my officers and self to promote 
 the comfort and safety of the ship is, and will continue to be, 
 highly appreciated by us. In return, we beg to thank you, on 
 behalf of the passengers, for the unvarying courtesy we have 
 received from them, and only regret that our acquaintance should 
 be so short. "With the best wishes for the happiness and pros- 
 perity of every one among the present passengers — the select few 
 who were the first to have practical faith in the great ship, 
 " I remain, dear Sir, with much esteem, yours faithfully, 
 
 " JoHiT Vine Hall." 
 
 Por the first hour or so after stopping our engines, we lay pretty 
 quiet, surrounded by vessels becalmed in what appeared a sea of 
 oil, so smooth and motionless was it, whilst the piercing rays of 
 the sun pouring down upon our heads, rendered absolutely 
 necessary the order, " Hands, spread awnings ;" but this monotony 
 was soon broken, first by the arrival of the steam tug " Yankee," 
 chartered by our New York agents, Messrs. Grinuell and Minturn, 
 having on board the secretary to the Big-ship Company, Mr. 
 Yates, and about 150 representatives of the press, and friends. 
 This party were (with but few exceptions) the only persons 
 admitted on board during the day. After the arrival of the 
 "Yankee," steamers of all size and build, crammed with passen- 
 gers from their upper story (for the American river steamers have 
 all a one or two-story house above the deck) to their guard-rails, 
 swarmed around us, the crowds on board filling the air with their 
 cheers, — three being given for everything in any way connected 
 with the Great Eastern, — waving their hats and handkerchiefs with 
 might and main ; the firing of guns, playing of bands, blowing of 
 steam whistles, and the indescribable row made by so large an 
 assembly of live Yankees, being quite deafening and bewildering. 
 A light breeze now springing up, yachts and vessels of every size 
 and rig were added to the strength of our escort ; but as a de- 
 scription of our reception will come better from an American pen, 
 we will leave our friend, Mr. Osbon, of the "New York "World," 
 to report our arrival and reception. 
 
 "At twenty minutes past seven o'clock the Great Eastern 
 arrived off the light-ship. She was received by Captain Cosgrove, 
 with a salute and the dipping of colours. 
 
 " Immediately the news of her arrival was telegraphed to the 
 consignees of the ship, Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn & Co. The 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 15 
 
 sails were refurled, the yards squared, and the ship put in order 
 to come up to the city when the tide should serve, which would 
 be between two and three o'clock in the afternoon. The anchors 
 were cockbilled, and the cables put in readiness to anchor, if 
 necessary ; but owing to the smoothness of the sea, it was not 
 deemed advisable to anchor, and as the ship was under such com- 
 plete control of the engines and helm. She was boarded by Mr. 
 John Hall, news collector of the associated press, and Mr. John 
 Van Dusen, Mr. Murphy's partner, of the pilot boat Washington, 
 No. 4. 
 
 " The vessels which were inward bound, as they saw the huge 
 hull, were at no loss to know it was the Great Eastern, and they 
 hoisted their flags, and sailed close to her, and scrutinised her 
 through their spy glasses, and in some instances sailed around her 
 to have a good survey of the great sea monster ; the crews were 
 scattered up aloft, out on the yards, and were intently engaged in 
 gazing upon her ; the pilot boats skimmed around her, and all the 
 vessels dipped their colours ; numbers of yachts which were 
 anchored in shore, got under weigh and spread their canvas to 
 the light breeze and stood out to greet her. The scene was one 
 of the liveliest interest ; as far as the eye could reach up the bay, 
 vessels were getting under way to come down. From the time of 
 her arrival ofi" the light-ship until she started for the bar nothing 
 occurred of interest, except that the consignees and the represen- 
 tatives of the press came down in the steamer Yankee and boarded 
 the ship. Several other boats came down, but no one was allowed 
 on board, until the Health OflScer should board her. 
 
 " As soon as it was light enough to see anything, the people of 
 Staten Island began to pour out of their houses, the earliest risers 
 taking care to secure positions commanding the most extensive 
 view. In their eagerness to catch the first glimpse of the ap- 
 proaching steamer, as well as to retain their places, breakfast was 
 forgotten, personal discomforts were overlooked, and nought was 
 thought of but the Great Eastern. The hours crept on apace till 
 the watches told eight o'clock, and their patience was still unre- 
 warded. Quarter-past eight came, but with no encouragement to 
 the gazing multitudes. Eive minutes more, and a voice cried out, 
 " I see her !" and immediately it passed from man to man that the 
 looked-for steamer was in sight. Instinctively the noise was 
 hushed, each one held his breath, stretched to his utmost height, 
 and strained his eyes to get a sight of the mighty stranger. jBut 
 it was only the possessors of spy -glasses who were the fortunate 
 ones. A few minutes more and the Great Eastern came within the 
 range of vision of the most short-sighted. Then it was the pent-up 
 enthusiasm burst forth, and one long shout told of the joy which 
 
16 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 was felt at the success of the great enterprise. Kecovering 
 from this, the boatmen hastened to their crafts, and in less 
 time than it takes us to describe their efforts, countless little 
 sail-boats were on their way out to sea. Quicklj the news 
 spread along the island, and soon the eastern side was lined with 
 spectators. 
 
 " Meanwhile the people in the city were by no means idle. The 
 telegram to Messrs. Grinnell, Minturn & Co., served as a signal 
 for all the 'packet steamboats' to fire up and start down the 
 bay. Passengers were only too glad to embark, despite the charge 
 of one dollar a head that was levied by the proprietors of these 
 boats. As fast as one boat was filled another came up, and before 
 noon the Thomas Hunt, Owen Petitt, W. Gr. Putnam, Delaware, 
 and many others, were shooting down the bay in search of the 
 Great Eastern. The yachts, too, that were lying quietly at 
 anchor, soon displayed signs of life ; the sails were run up, 
 the flags hoisted, and they joined the fleet of steamboats that 
 were hastening seaward. As time and tide wait for no man, 
 the spectators had to wait for the tide, for the huge steamer 
 refused to gratify the waiting multitudes until it was high 
 water. 
 
 " At a quarter of eleven o'clock yesterday morning, a small 
 steamer, with the appropriate cognomen, ' Yankee,' was hastily 
 procured and hired by the consignees of the big ship, Messrs. 
 Grinnell and Minturn, and still more hastily boarded by the 
 representatives of the press, who had previously mustered in 
 goodly numbers at Messrs. Grinnell and Minturn' s office, and as 
 soon as the Yankee came alongside of the wharf at the foot of 
 Maiden I^ane, they jumped aboard like so many literary pirates, 
 as it were, determined to slaughter their mammoth prize by piece- 
 meal, and do her up in detail. All the enterprise and ingenuity 
 of reportorial talent were present, from sentiment down to bur- 
 lesque ; matter of fact and statistics ; political, law, and "Wall- 
 street lore ; satire and argument ; everything in the way of news- 
 paper talent that appears in black and white, and in close columns 
 was freighted on the Yankee. The shipping moored to the 
 wharves in the vicinity of the steam-tug, and the movine^ craft of 
 steam and sail, of all descriptions, seemed to be perfectly uncon- 
 scious of the nearness of their expected, august visitor. Not a 
 flag was waving, excepting the scanty pieces of bunting long worn 
 there by the winds of many a clime, nor a gun booming as the 
 sombre little vessel steamed quietly through the bay and out 
 beyond the Narrows on her course to the ' John Bull ' of naval 
 architecture. The fort on Governor's Island and Port Hamilton 
 with its opposite neighbour, were bathing in the sunlight, and 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 17 
 
 seemed to be in an undisturbed stony sleep ; tbe picturesque 
 shores of Staten Island dotted with cottages and covered with the 
 greenest of foliage, the long, strongly marked white beach line of 
 Long Island, w^ere rapidly passed as the little Yankee slyly glided 
 into the open sea to meet the great vessel. 
 
 "The whole trip w^as pleasant and unmarked by anything 
 unusual ; members of the press always have a press in their heads, 
 a press on their thoughts, and a press on their words and actions ; 
 in fact, they are compressed, and, as usual, on this occasion they 
 all looked as little ruffled, as quiet and subdued as the placid bay 
 on which they were sailing. 
 
 " iVs the little steamer was flitting like a butterfly around a 
 buffalo, the band on board the Eastern struck up the national air, 
 ' Hail Columbia.' After taking one tour of inspection, she 
 neared the big hull, and, having been lashed to a tug which had 
 been previously moored to the Eastern, the consignees and repre- 
 sentatives of the press stepped aboard. But here a difficulty 
 occurred : the adjoining tug was not sufficiently near the side of 
 the big ship to allow the passengers to step from her deck to the 
 gangway ladders, the bottom step of which was higher than the 
 deck of the Yankee. A plank, however, with some difficulty, was 
 soon adjusted, and the gentlemen stepped, one by one, from the 
 tuo^ on to the gangway ladders, and all reached the lofty deck 
 without a drenching in the waves, or injury to any one. 
 
 ''When stepping upon the deck for tbe first time, one is slightly 
 disappointed, after witnessing the graceful curves and the beautiful 
 proportions of her exterior, to see the apparently worn and old 
 look of the decks and companion ways. This is undoubtedly 
 owing to the hasty departure of the Great Eastern, and to the 
 previous doubt and suspension as to her final destiaation. The 
 consignees were immediately greeted by Captain John Vine Hall, 
 and several members of the press by the other officers ; the crowd, 
 however, soon dispersed, and was soon no longer a crowd. 
 
 " Immediately after the formality of greeting was over, the con- 
 signees and the other guests descended to the second cabin on a 
 tour of inspection. There, in an adjoining room, the passengers 
 were found at dinner. They seemed to be startled by tbe appear- 
 ance of so many visitors. A brass band at the same time was 
 discoursing some lively strains. 
 
 " In the meanwhile the remainder of the visitors had scattered 
 themselves in all directions over tbe wide expanse of deck, some 
 were at the bow lookiug down at her stern, others in the raised 
 grating of tbe quarterdeck, examining the wheels that guide the 
 rudder and trying to catch a glimpse of the fans of tbe screw, 
 sixty feet below; others were peering into the wheel-boxes, where 
 
 c 
 
18 THE GKEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 tbe immense red frame work was lit up, when tbey were in 
 motion, by a beautiful rainbow ; certainly an odd, tbough not 
 unusual sight — a rainbow within the wheel of a steamship. And 
 others were gazing down into the abyss of the paddle engine 
 machinery, where the stupendous oscillating engines were in 
 motion. Indeed, this sight was truly grand. The precision of 
 the motion of such an immense mass, at such a depth ; the groan- 
 ing of the steam, as it were, in the bowels of the monster, and the 
 ease of motion of each stupendous piston, were calculated to 
 inspire emotions of awe and wonder. 
 
 " The lively scene on the deck was rendered more pleasing by the 
 bright buttoned uniforms of the courteous officers, who paced to 
 and fro, cheerfully explaining everything, and readily imparting 
 all kinds of nautical information. 
 
 " It is strange, however it should have happened, that such a 
 scene was not graced by those who are always present, where 
 manhood is triumphant, and intellect and skill are victorious over 
 matter. We noticed but one lady on board, the wife of one of 
 the directors. 
 
 " Before the giant of steam marine had made a revolution of her 
 paddles for the start to the city, a number of little craft had 
 reached her, crowded down to the water's edge, and white with 
 handkerchiefs, waved by eager spectators, who sent up cheer after 
 cheer most heartily, for the great triumph of naval architecture. 
 The 0. M. Petit, the Thomas Hunt, and a little black, walnut- 
 shaped steamer, sailed in this jubilant manner, round and round, 
 like timid Lilliputians, reconnoitering an awe-inspiring Brob- 
 dingnag. 
 
 " At fifteen minutes past two o'clock the signal was given and the 
 engines were put in motion. Slowly the immense paddle-wheels 
 revolved, and the vast ship was quickly under way. Those who 
 had not seen her in motion, were astonished at the ease, quietness 
 and perfect grace of her movements. From the steamboats and 
 vessels surrounding her, were sent up deafening cheers of cordial 
 approval, while the ladies, who made up one-half of the visiting 
 steamboat loads, waved their handkerchiefs in ecstacies of delight. 
 The enthusiasm was great — the scene was exciting. 
 
 " On board the immense steamer every man knew his place, and 
 with the certainty and regularity of clockwork, all her movements 
 were guided. There was perfect harmony of action, perfect control. 
 Her broad wakes — for she had to make quite a circuit in getting 
 started — looked from the stern of the steamer as a vast river 
 winding through a boundless prairie looks to the aeronaut. Com- 
 pared with it, the wakes of the smaller vessels following in her 
 track sank into narrow nothingness. 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 19 
 
 " A few minutes' time brought the huge steamer near the bar. 
 Now came the trying time. The great problem was to be solved, 
 whether she could cross the bar. Every one watched with eager- 
 ness her approach. On the result depended whether the steamer 
 could enter the harbour of New York. She was drawing 26 feet 
 6 inches of water, and the tide favoured her with 29 feet. The 
 wind is light ; everything is propitious. The bar is reached. The 
 huge form of the steamer goes over. There is no sensation 
 of grounding. Without touching ground the bar is crossed. 
 The G-reat Eastern is in the harbour of New York. It is a 
 proud victory. Anxiety is at an end. A salute of twenty guns 
 heralds the victory. Shrill whistles from the accompanying fleet 
 of steamers, ringing of bells and cheers of thousands of spectators, 
 who have been waiting and watching with nervous anxiety the 
 result, attest appreciation of the steamer's triumph. 
 
 " Promise of a dinner on board the mammoth steam-ship was 
 made on the little steam-tug Yankee. The ride down the bay and 
 the sea air had sharpened the appetite. In the excitement of 
 wandering about the huge vessel, marching up and down her 
 immense decks, looking into the complex wilderness of rooms 
 below, and observing the vast engines and towering display of 
 masts, the keen hunger of which nearly everybody had been 
 complaining, was forgotten. At half-past two o'clock, howeYer, 
 when an invitation to dinner was extended to the new coiners on 
 board, a general and hearty response to the same was manifested 
 by a rush to the dining-room. The tables were set in the second 
 dining saloon. A sumptuous repast covered them — the leading 
 staple articles being solid English roast beef and Southdown 
 mutton. Champagne goblets and ice formed the accompaniments, 
 with a bounteous supply of bottled English ale. All ate and 
 drank with a relish. 
 
 " Now that the trying rubicon has been passed, the remainder of 
 the trip to the city is straightforward. But there is excitement 
 and intense enthusiasm all the way, such as never before attended 
 the arrival of any vessel in New York. The day was one of the 
 most delightful imaginable. A delicious breeze came from the 
 south-west, and the sky was cloudless, affording a splendid view 
 of the bay, and Staten Island, and Long Island shores. Erom 
 the deck of the Great Eastern, the view of the outstretching 
 harbour of New York was unparalleled in extent and beauty. 
 Strangers on board the vessel, who for the first time were entering 
 the harbour of New York, were overwhelmed with wonder at the 
 splendid scene revealing itself to their astonished gaze. Old 
 residents of the city looked on with equal wonderment. 
 
 " As the Great Eastern neared New York, the fleet of vessels, 
 
 c 2 
 
20 THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 
 
 crowded with people anxious to see the monster leviathan of the 
 commercial world, increased in numbers. There was a propor- 
 tionate increase of enthusiasm, and wild fluttering of flags, and 
 gratulatorv salutes and ringing of bells. Yachts and sailing 
 vessels crowded in among the nautical visitants. As each came 
 within hailing distance, the sailors swung their hats, and the 
 ladies described jubilant circles in the air with their handker- 
 chiefs. To the salutes, appropriate and hearty responses were 
 made from the steamer. 
 
 " From Fort Hamilton a national salute was fired, which was 
 responded to by the booming of cannon from the decks of the 
 Great Eastern. 
 
 " The report on the bulletin board of the newspapers, that the 
 tide would be high enough at half-past one o'clock to float the 
 Great Eastern over the bar, induced many thousands of people to 
 assemble on the battery at that time to witness the giant steam- 
 ship as she passed up the bay. It was not understood, however, 
 that the great vessel was anchored oflf the Lightship some forty 
 miles from the city, and that the actual passage of the dangerous 
 bar could only take place between three and four o'clock. Very 
 many, after remaining in the broiling sun over two hours, and 
 straining their eyes until they ached, left for home, and voted the 
 monster vessel a humbug. However, at five o'clock, about which 
 time she hove in sight, there was a vast crowd on the Battery, and 
 all the neighbouring wharves were densely thronged. Telescopes, 
 opera and magnifyins glasses, of all kinds, were brought into 
 requisition, most of which, it was evident, were more ornamental 
 than useful, and obscured rather than helped the sight. A fine 
 view of the Great Eastern was obtained from the balcony of 
 Castle Garden, to which a favoured few were admitted. 
 
 " The first sign of the Great Eastern which greeted the anxious 
 watchers on the Battery was a dense cloud of smoke, which made 
 its appearance over Long Island ; and shortly alter, her tall masts 
 loomed up over the point which juts into the lower bay. Presently 
 the huge hulk hove in sight, and soon darkened all of the horizon 
 that can be seen between the Staten and Long Island coasts. The 
 guns flashed out a thunderous welcome, flags were hoisted and 
 dipped, and myriads of sail and row boats dashed out into the bay 
 to surround, survey, and cheer the great vessel. 
 
 " After passing the Narrows, the Great Eastern ' hugged ' the 
 Staten Island shore ; and at this time, owing to the distance, and 
 the darkened background, she did not look as large as people were 
 led to expect, and there was some disappointment in consequence. 
 It was nut until she approached the Battery that her vast pro- 
 portions became manifest ; but the best test of her enormous 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 21 
 
 bulk was the dwarfing of every large vessel she neared or passed. 
 The steam-ship Niagara, which was lying in the stream, bedecked 
 with flags and steamers, shrunk apparently to the dimensions of a 
 little ferry boat, and a good-sized revenue cutter seemed scarcely 
 above her water-line, and one would suppose could hardly survive 
 a ripple from her bow. As the great vessel passed the Battery, 
 salutes were fired by the Asia from her dock at Jersey City, by 
 the Niagara and the revenue cutter, and all the vessels dipped 
 their flags as she passed. The beauty of the day, the myriads of 
 boats on the river, the shipping in the offing gaily adorned with 
 flags and streamers, and, towering above them all, the great 
 nautical Avonder of the age, was a scene not often witnessed nor 
 soon forgotten. 
 
 " Long before the time at which she was announced by the 
 papers as likely to arrive, the Great Eastern was the principal 
 subject of conversation along the North Eiver. Everybody com- 
 municated what little he knew about her to everybody else ; and 
 the large amount of information of which some inveterate talkers 
 were possessed was very marvellous, considering that none of it 
 was correct. The chairs were brought out from all the drinking- 
 houses to the side-walk, and were occupied by the waiting multi- 
 tude. Some there were of patient individuals, who sat for two or 
 three hours on the docks, in the hot sun, agonising and perspiring, 
 waiting and longing for her approach, determined to see her, if she 
 came at all. AV'e presume they had a fine time of it. Perhaps, 
 however, they were right in thinking that to see the vessel pur- 
 suing her course up the harbour, was a hundred times better than 
 to see her lying quietly and motionless at the dock. It may be 
 very interesting to look upon the skeleton of a mastodon, but the 
 grand sight would be to behold the great animal moving in his 
 native forests. 
 
 " By three o'clock the ends of all the piers along the way were 
 covered with people. The top of a pile of timbers was sure to be 
 occupied by a crowd. The docks near Hammond Street were 
 covered by large numbers of people. An occasional sailor in the 
 masts of a ship stood ready to give the signal of the approach of 
 the vessel. A cry, in joke, of ' Here she comes ! ' would make 
 the ropes alive with boys. The men speculated on the time she 
 would arrive, and the little boys pointed out the masts of vessels 
 almost out of sight, very positive that all belonged to the Great 
 Eastern. One little fellow thought that if he could go up in a 
 balloon he could tell just where she was. The firing of cannon 
 was the signal for increased vigilance on the part of lookers-out, 
 and in a short time after this the vessel came in sight. When 
 she came near enough to be fully observed, the admiration, 
 
22 THE GREAT EASTESN's LOG. 
 
 astonisliment, and eutliusiasm were unbounded. The men cheered 
 
 involuntarily, the boys uttered prolonged enunciations of tbe 
 syllable ' oh ! ' and every person commenced to point out to his 
 neighbour some peculiar or wonderful thing which he observed 
 about her. The masts of the ships were now covered with human 
 beings, numerous as fruit on an apple-tree. Old gentlemen, 
 seized with unwonted vitality, essayed to climb the rope-ladders, 
 and sailors shouted to ' land-lubbers,' in derision, to look out and 
 not fall. The roofs of houses that were near enough to afford a 
 view of the river were covered with ladies and children, as well as 
 men. As the vessel approached Hammond Street the crowd 
 increased, until there seemed to be no end to it. The universal 
 emotion was admiration and astonishment. Some, indeed, from 
 benighted neighbourhoods, who had been told by erudite friends 
 that she was about seven miles long, and that a livery stable was 
 in successful operation on board of her, on account of the pleasure 
 the passengers derived from taking morning rides of fourteen 
 miles or so, from stem to stern and back again, and who had 
 implicitly believed all the comic papers had said about her, were 
 perhaps somewhat disappointed at finding her only a quarter of a 
 mile in length, but were constrained to admit that she was a 
 ' great baste.' 
 
 " At Hammond Street she was a long time manoeuvring in the 
 river, seeming to be attempting to turn about, but without suc- 
 cess. She ran very near to the Jersey City shore, and lay there for 
 a considerable time ; then she bore down directly towards the pier 
 at the foot of Hammond Street, and every one supposed that she 
 was coming in. Changing her course, however, she started up 
 the stream, and went so far as to be out of sight from that 
 locality. 
 
 " As the vessel steamed up the river, the spectacle presented was 
 not a whit inferior to that along the harbour. The gaily decorated 
 boats that shot hither and thither across the stream, the flags 
 flying from every mast-head, and, not the least, the huzzaing 
 multitudes on either shore, made a coup d'ceil that has never been 
 surpassed since the arrival of the Great Britain fifteen years ago. 
 The ship steamed steadily on, only to meet with new sights at 
 every turn of the wheels, to be greeted with additional cannon 
 salutes and shouts of welcome from the throngs crowding the 
 encompassing steamers and vessels, and the shores. 
 
 " Nothing of importance occurred last night at the moorings of 
 the Grreat Eastern. During the earlier part of the evening a large 
 crowd, of which nearly one-half was composed of ladies, was con- 
 tinually on the dock, and the streets leading to the place were 
 thronged with persons going to or returning from the place of 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 23 
 
 attraction. After ten o'clock but few persons remained, except 
 uncivilised boys and men used to sitting up late at night. During 
 all the evening the scene was quiet and picturesque. The great 
 vessel stood by the dock like a mighty cloud, and those on the 
 pier gazed up in wonder, and almost in awe, at the magnificent 
 work of human hands before them. The moon shone bright and 
 clear upon the river, and the calm waters glistened and sparkled 
 ill its light. 
 
 " There was no other illumination of the scene than this. Dark- 
 ness was spread over the great city like a black mantle, and the 
 flickering of lamps here and there only served to make the 
 darkness more palpable. The bulwarks seemed as high as the 
 rouf of a four-story house. Standing at one end, the other was 
 dim and indistinctly defined in the distance. Occasionally, a boat 
 paddled between the ship and the wharf, only noticed by the 
 noise of the oars and the white garments of the rowers. Some of 
 the crew of the Great Eastern leaned over the side above, and 
 quietly gazed out upon the river and the city, or, when the crowd 
 below grew noisy, answered questions which were asked them. 
 The crowd below stood either on the docks or on the piles of 
 boards, from ten to fifteen feet high, close beside the ship. Late 
 in the evening the governing classes came out strong, and had 
 much to say to the crew. 
 
 " One young gentleman gave utterance to the information that 
 the crowd thought of giving the ship a white-washing that night ; 
 and another was anxious to know how the weather was up there. 
 AV^ith the exception of these harmless passages between those 
 who had no eye to beauty or sublimity, the quiet and want of 
 excitement was remarkable. During the latter part of the 
 evening, several of the seamen of the Oreat Eastern, with great 
 agility, slid down a rope at the side of the vessel to the dock. 
 The police, discovering this, loosened the rope, and ordered the 
 sailors on board to haul it up. ' Oh, no,' they replied, ' I can't ; 
 I haven't got the heart.' The rope was then fastened by the 
 sailors, so that it was as available as a means of escape from the 
 ship as before. The police, baffled at this, muttered that they 
 would lock up the next man that came down, and considered it 
 useless to attempt anything more. And thus the monarch of the 
 waters lay last night in the cahn moonlight, waiting for the 
 excitement of this morning. The interior of the vessel will 
 probably be exhibited soon, if not to-day, at a stated price of 
 admission." 
 
24 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 Friday, June 29fJi. — Our crew, assisted by a number of sbore- 
 hands, are employed cleaning ship and preparing generally for the 
 reception of visitors. The officers of the ship to-day received a 
 letter from the proprietors of the Astor-house hotel, offering to us 
 all the hospitalities of their house : v^-e were all much impressed 
 with, and in suitable terms acknowledged, the kindness of their 
 offer, but preferred maintaining our independence. The scene 
 this day alongside the ship presented a most animated appearance, 
 thousands of people gazing at the " big ship " from " early morn" 
 to " dewy eve." Itinerant vendors of stores of all kinds ; " iced 
 lemonade" made from lemons " grown on board the big ship," 
 one cent per glass. " Great Eastern drinks," " cakes," " sweet- 
 meats," and everything to which they could apply the name of 
 the ship, commanded a ready sale. The spare ground on the wharf 
 is letting in lots at fabulous prices for the erection of " lager bier" 
 saloons and refreshment booths of all kinds ; there is also in course 
 of construction a tent for the Great French Giant, M. Joseph 
 Adams, Menagerie of Bears, Shooting Galleries, &c. &c. ; in short, 
 the heterogeneous collection of a country fair is being fast gathered 
 together. The Japanese (who leave in a day or two) are quite 
 forgotten, or, rather eclipsed, by the arrival of the big ship — one 
 set of " Great Easterns " driven out by the arrival of another 
 " Great Eastern" — our American cousins seeming determined to 
 apply to us the motto " Palmam qui meruit ferat." This evening 
 two of our stokers unfortunately met their death while in a state 
 of intoxication ; one falling from the wheel sustained concussion of 
 the brain and died the next day ; the other fell overboard and was 
 drowned, his body not being recovered. The ship has hitherto 
 been a temperance one, no spirits being allowed, but now the crew 
 have facilities for obtaining the much-coveted drink, they seem 
 determined to make up for their long abstinence. Drunkenness 
 is doubtless the curse of British seamen, and a frightful per-centage 
 of death and disease is the result of this dreadful infatuation. 
 The next day a coroner's inquest was held on board on the body 
 of the man who was killed, a verdict of " accidental death" being 
 returned : he is to be buried to-morrow. At the request of the 
 proprietors of the New York Illustrated News, the whole of the 
 officers sat for their photographs at the establishment of Mr. 
 Gurney, Broadway, for insertion in the next week's paper. Two 
 large and commodious gangw^ays for "entrance" and "exit," a 
 ticket office, &c., have been constructed, and turnstiles fixed in 
 the interior of the ship. The general arrangement for admitting 
 the public will be completed on Monday, and the ship throw^u 
 open on Tuesday at a charge of one dollar per head, half price to 
 juveniles. We are blessed with beautiful weather, although it ig 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 25 
 
 rather too warm to be comfortable. To render the position of the 
 ship a safe one in the event of a blow, seven anchors are buried 
 on diifereiit parts of the wharf, and attached to these are large 
 chains secured on board. Small steamers are constantly hovering 
 round the ship crowded with people, who are induced to take an 
 outside view bj the flaming announcement that the fare is only 
 10 cents (= to 5d.). Nearly every steamer passing, that is pos- 
 sessed with anything in the shape of a band, compliments us by 
 striking up with all the vigour of sound lungs, " God save the 
 Queen," finishing up with three cheers for the Cfreat Eastern. 
 
 The following is the advertisement of the directors fixing the 
 day for opening, and the price of admission : — 
 
 " JN'otice is hereby given, that the G-reat Eastern will be pre- 
 pared for the reception of visitors on Tuesday 3rd July, between 
 the hours of nine in the morning and six in the evening. The 
 price of admission is fixed at one dollar each for adults, and fifty 
 cents for children under twelve years of age. By order of the 
 directors. J. H. Yates, Secretary." 
 
 Sundaij, July 1st, was fine but very warm, the dust from the 
 shore blowing over the ship in clouds, adding much to our dis- 
 comfort. At 10 A.M. the clergyman who was to officiate at the 
 interment of the fireman who was killed on Friday last, attended, 
 and the crew being assembled on the quarter deck, he spoke a few 
 earnest words to them on the evils attending drunkenness, as 
 exemplified in the untimely end of their two shipmates, exhorting 
 them in the most solemn terms to reform their ways ; the coffin 
 was then lowered over the side enveloped in the shroud of a British 
 sailor — the flag he loves so well in life, that covers him at death — 
 the Union Jack. The ship's bells were tolled, and about 120 men 
 from the engineers' department, headed by their chief, and accom- 
 panied by some ten or twelve other engineers, formed a procession 
 following the hearse which carried the body to the grave ; it was 
 a mournful sight, and one that should have been a lesson to them. ; 
 but no, the same night in a drunken row one man had his head 
 split open by his messmate with a bar of iron, his death being at 
 first feared. The dastardly coward, who committed the assault, 
 w^as sent to gaol, and was sentenced to undergo a lengthened 
 period of imprisonment, so that we were well quit of him. I 
 should think on a moderate computation, no less than 50,000 
 persons have embraced the opportunity presented by an idle day 
 to have a look at the Great Eastern from, the wharf; and what 
 with tents, stalls, &c., the display of flags, the cries of the 
 intinerant vendors of all sorts, and the immense motley multi- 
 tude swarming on the wharf attired in all the colours of the rain- 
 bow, I was forcibly reminded of Greenwich fair as it used to 
 
26 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 be. The weather on the succeeding day, Monday, was all that 
 heart could .desire. Painters were making a vain attempt to 
 beautify the exterior of the ship, but no sooner was the paint laid 
 on than it was covered with a shower of dust, making all colours 
 alike. Our preparations for opening the ship are now nearly 
 completed, and she certainly looks in first-rate order. 
 
 Keceived a visit from Mr. Jacobs (the Wizard), and his brother 
 (the Goblin Sprightly). We paid a visit to the theatre in which 
 they were performing in the evening, and were much amused by 
 their excellent entertainment. Among Mr. Jacob's friends was 
 one " old English Gentleman," whom we had invited to view the 
 Great Eastern by moonlight ; never shall I forget his ecstasy when 
 he stood upon her spacious quarter deck ; but after ascending to 
 the top of the paddle-box, " hold my hat and stick," said he, to 
 one of us, and down he plumped on his knees, his white hair 
 glistening in the moonlight, and with hands clasped, he exclaimed, 
 " This is the proudest moment of my long life ! God, I thank Thee 
 I'm an Englishman ! " 
 
 Tuesday, July Srd. — At 8 a.m. the Great Eastern was first 
 opened for adtnission to an American public, but contrary to our 
 expectations there was anything but a rush, 1700 being the small 
 number of visitors registered for the day by the turnstiles ; thus 
 showing pretty clearly that the rate of admission is too high. The 
 general opinion of the visitors seems to be, that she's " a mighty 
 big ship," and must have cost a " tarnation sight of dollars." The 
 following day, being the anniversary of American Independence, 
 was kept as a holiday throughout the entire country by all classes ; 
 *' everybody " seemed bound to go "somewhere;" excursion 
 steamers were running in all directions witli "fishing parties," 
 " picnic parties," and " parties " of all kinds ; the theatres and all 
 places of amusement held out inducements in the shape of extra 
 bills of fare, headed with the announcement that it was the 
 *' Glorious Fourth." The greatest license appeared to be allowed 
 to all parties. Do as you like, appeared to be the order of the 
 day. Pistols were popping and big guns banging the whole day 
 long, twenty-one of the latter being fired by us as a compliment to 
 the Yankees ; and in the evening the public thoroughfares were 
 almost impassable, for squibs, crackers, and other fireworks were 
 thrown about in a most reckless manner, many fires being the 
 consequence. A public display of fireworks was gratuitously pro- 
 vided at several places ; among others, at the City Hall ; and 
 being informed these would be the best, we, escorted by Mr. 
 E/awliugs, of the " J^^ew York Illustrated News," wended our way, 
 though not without some difiiculty, through the streets to the 
 office of the " New York Times," from the upper windows of 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 27 
 
 which establishment we had a good view of the display, which, in 
 comparison wifcli the same sort of thing we are in the habit of 
 seeing in Old England, was, we think, rather insignificant. 
 After the finale (which was a large scroll in coloured lights, bear- 
 ing the words " American Independence," witb AYashington and 
 the Goddess of Liberty, in life-like figures, steamers with their 
 w^heels turning, and sailing ships representing Commerce, finishing 
 with a grand discharge of rockets, romau candles, &c.) we took a 
 look into Morence's Theatre, and saw a ridiculous burlesque on 
 the Japanese. After which, and a " claret punch " at Taylor's, 
 (the most magnificent restaurant in New York), we returned to 
 the ship just as the fun in the shape of fighting, &c., was com- 
 mencing, but not having a taste for that style of amusement, 
 we betook ourselves to bed. The weather next day was squally, 
 with a considerable fall of rain ; the visitors both yesterday and 
 to-day not averaging over 1700, or 3400 for the two days. During 
 the night we found the water-thieves very troublesome, and we 
 have been compelled to use pistols on them once or twice, sinking 
 some of their boats to teach them manners. On the evening of 
 Eriday the 6th, all the ofiicers, with the exception of three, like- 
 wise the senior engineers, attended a grand banquet given in 
 our honour, by the proprietor of the " iS'ew York Illustrated 
 News," at " Lafarge House," one of the principal hotels in New 
 York. 
 
 To the excellency of the entertainment, and the very kind and 
 flattering reception given to our worthy commander and his 
 officers, we would wish to bear testimony ; the gentlemen connected 
 with the paper being unremitting in their kind attention. 
 AVe all spent a moat happy evening, and shall ever think of it 
 with pleasure. 
 
 Saturday, July lltli. — Eine weather, but very warm. This is 
 the last day on which a dollar will be charged for admission. On 
 Monday next, the ship will be open for inspection at half that 
 amount. During the five days of the charge of a dollar, the 
 number of visitors registered was only 8578 ; but the reduction 
 of the price of admission will doubtless treble that number during 
 the ensuing week. The directors, assisted by an experienced 
 public caterer, Mr. Jarrett, are arranging excursion trains and 
 steamers from diflerent parts of the States, and every facility will 
 be aflbrded to intending visitors. The next day being Sunday, 
 the ship was closed to the public ; but that the excitement caused 
 by the arrival has in no ways abated, the following extract from 
 one of the local papers published the following morning will 
 prove. 
 
28 THE GEE AT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 " The Geeat Eastern. 
 
 ''The principnl feature of attraction in the metropolis yesterday- 
 was the Great Eastern ; and never in the history of Gotham has 
 theviciuitj of Hammond, Bank, and Bethune Streets been the 
 focus of a greater throng than was all day gathered to gratify the 
 public curiosity. The influx commenced at an early hour in the 
 morning, and from that time until night let down her curtain, 
 increased by thousands. Central Park was comparatively deserted, 
 the Sixth, Fourth, and Third avenue cars hardly doing a week-day's 
 business, while the Eighth and Ninth Avenue cars, which run in 
 the vicinity of the great show, were crowded to suffocation. Every 
 street running towards the North river in the locality of the ship 
 was black with people — men, women, and children — wending their 
 way towards the dock. Erom the east side especially the delega- 
 tion was immense, while those living in AYilliamsburg, Brooklyn, 
 Jersey City, Hoboken, and other suburbs, had facilities provided 
 for their accommodation in the shape of steamers and ferry-boats, 
 which ran at frequent intervals during the day, conveying pas- 
 sengers around the ship at a price varying from ten to twenty-five 
 cents. There were some eight or ten of these, and as many of 
 them were crowded to the water's edge on some of their trips, it 
 is fair to suppose that a handsome profit was derived. Probably 
 no less than a hundred thousand pairs of eyes gazed upon the 
 huge stranger in the course of the day. Yet, notwithstanding 
 the throng, the dust, the heat, and other things calculated to try 
 one's temper, the best of decorum prevailed, and the services of 
 the large force of police were comparatively unnecessary. Lemonade 
 and lager bier received liberal patronage, and some of the 
 venders reaped handsome profits from the hungry and thirsty. A 
 few instances of intoxication required attention, as they always do 
 in a miscellaneous gathering ; but nothing that came to our ears 
 indicated that the general peace and good order had been dis- 
 turbed. On shipboard everything appeared quiet. An occasional 
 head protruded above the bulwarks and looked down upon the 
 crowd, but no connection between the ship and shore took place 
 except when some lucky fellow received leave of absence, when 
 he moved as rapidly through the crowd as a joyful pair of legs 
 could carry him. It is estimated that not less than titty-thousand 
 people visit;. d the dock on foot alone, to say nothing of the great 
 number ^^ho looked upon her majestic form from the decks of 
 sundry steamers. Everybody appeared delighted, and expectation, 
 judging trom the various remarks, did not appear to be greatly 
 disappointed." 
 
 This morning one of our quarter-masters named Durrell, 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 29 
 
 was found dead in his bed, his death being the result of constant 
 intemperance. A wife and several children are in this case left 
 nearly destitute. A coroner's inquest was held on the body, and 
 the usual verdict returned. He was buried on the following 
 morning, another victim offered up at the shrine of intemperance. 
 On Monday morning a party of us, consisting of eight officers, 
 having obtained the necessary leave of absence, and passes, which 
 were kindly presented to us by the different railway and steam- 
 boat companies, started at 7 a.m., with beautiful weather, in the 
 fastest steamer in America, the " Daniel Drew," for Albany. 
 The Daniel Drew left New York at 7 a.m., and after eleven 
 stoppages on the way, arrived at Albany at 4-30 p.m., having 
 performed the distance of 150 miles at the rate of nearly nine- 
 teen miles an hour. 
 
 After arriving at Albany, we took the omnibus and drove up to 
 the finest hotel, " Delavan House," a magnificent building, sump- 
 tuously furnished ; the entry of our names in the visitors' book 
 was sufficient to ensure us every attention from the spirited 
 proprietor, Mr. Loyselle, junior. After a little brightening of the 
 outward man, we proceeded to replenish the inward with the 
 good things of this life, and after satisfying the cravings of nature 
 we sallied forth to satisfy those of curiosity. We visited the 
 Capitol, or (Senate House, a large, substantial, white stone 
 building, with nothing particular to mark its exterior. The 
 Assembly Eoom is a fine spacious apartment, tastefully furnished ; 
 a full length portrait of Washington overhung the seat of the 
 chief magistrate. Tlie Senate Chamber is somewhat similar, hung 
 with portraits of American celebrities, with, to English eyes, 
 the strange addition of a handsome porcelain spittoon to each desk. 
 The Library, a large square room, contains 80,000 handsomely 
 bound books, with a picture gallery ; around which is an elaborately- 
 worked iron railing. Albany, the capital of the Empire State, was 
 founded by the Dutch in 1614, and received its present name in 
 honour of James, Duke of York and Albany, afterwards James 
 the Second, at the period when it fell into the possession of the 
 British, 16G4. The population is about 6500. The principal 
 public buildings are the " Capitol," the "State Hall," the " City 
 Hall," the " Hospital," " Penitentiaries," and between forty and 
 fifty churches. The houses are well built, but the streets very 
 irregular and ill paved. Before leaving we partook of a glass of 
 champagne with the proprietor, who kindly insisted on con- 
 sidering us his guests, and as such would not allow us to pay a 
 farthing. We gladly take this opportunity of returning our 
 thanks to all for their kindness both on board the l3aniel 
 Drew and at Delavan House. 
 
30 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 Left for Niagara at 11 p.m., by the New York Central Eail- 
 waj, engaging a berth each in the sleeping car. These cars are 
 arranged with two tiers of side berths similar to a cabin in a small 
 ship, being attached to all night trains in America. Each sleeping 
 car is furnished with the necessaries for performing the morning's 
 ablutions, although I cannot speak in high terms of the articles 
 generally in use for arranging the hair, both comb and brush 
 being securely chained to the side with so short a scope as to 
 require the greatest ingenuity even on the part of a wide-awake 
 Yankee, to put them to their legitimate use. About 7 a.m., 
 stopped at the city of Eochester to breakfast, which was ready 
 awaiting us in a large comfortable room ; plenty of good things 
 to satisfy good appetites, with both civility and attention as a 
 relish, the charge made being only two shillings. Eochester is 
 a large and important city, with a population of 45,000. The 
 Genessee Falls lie close to the town ; it w^as from Table Eock 
 in the centre of them that the celebrated Sam Patch made his 
 last and fatal leap in 1829. Having twice previously jumped into 
 the rapids near the Falls of Niagara, and once from the Table 
 Eock, the latter a height of 125 feet ; he never rose after his last 
 leap, his body never being found. During our trip by rail to 
 Niagara, we passed through many towns, but of course it is 
 useless from a mere passing glance to attempt a description of 
 them ; the country 1 should like to describe, but find myself 
 unable to do so in the manner it deserves. AVoods, fields of 
 waving, ripening grain, rocks, rivers, mountains, and plains, are all 
 blended in one grand picture, by that great painter, Nature. At 
 11.15 A.M. (after a ride of about twelve hours from Albany), we 
 arrived at the Falls, taking up our quarters at the International 
 Hotel. Had a delightful bath, which somewhat restored us, after our 
 fatiguing journey, and then started in a carriage for the Falls, 
 crossing the small suspension bridge on to Goat Island (on the 
 American side) ; each person for this privilege being required to pay 
 a fee of one shilling, and to enter his or her name in a book kept 
 for that purpose : after having once paid your fee, you are free to 
 cross for the rest of the season. This island is private property, 
 and the source of a considerable income to its proprietor. The 
 rapids, as seen from this bridge, are a grand and impressive sight ; 
 the rocks, which are in some places visible above the surface, seem 
 tormented with some supernatural agony, and fling off" the wild 
 and hurried waters as if with the force of a giant's arm. After a 
 ride of some few minutes, and crossing a small foot-bridge, we find 
 ourselves on Luna Island, and standing on the very edge of the 
 American Falls : the Horse-Shoe FaD. being visible at the same 
 moment. 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 31 
 
 To attempt to describe what we felt whilst gazing on this cease- 
 less, rolling, roaring world of waters, jumping madly down a height 
 of 163 feet, stunning the looker on with its thunder, and blinding 
 him with its spray, were useless ; no pen could give an idea of the 
 delight and reverence with which we gazed in speechless wonder 
 at this sublime sight ; it must be seen and felt to be appreciated. 
 
 " Flow on for ever in thy glorious robe 
 Of Terror and of Beauty : yea, flow on, 
 Unfathom'd and resistless. God has set 
 His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud 
 Mantled around thy feet : and He doth give 
 Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him 
 Eternally, bidding the lip of man 
 Keep silence, and upon Thy altar pour 
 Incense of awe-struck praise 
 
 * ' Thou dost speak 
 Alone of God, who pour'd thee as a drop 
 From his right hand, bidding the soul that 
 Looks upon Thy fearful majesty be still — 
 Be humbly wrapp'd in its own nothingness, 
 And lose itself in him." — Sigourney. 
 
 *' And what are we, 
 That hear the question of that voice sublime ? 
 Oh ! what are all the notes that ever rung 
 From man's vain trumpet, by Thy thund'ring side ? 
 Yea, what is all the riot that man makes 
 In his short life, to Thy unceasing roar ? 
 And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him 
 Who drowned a world, and heaped the waters far 
 Above its loftiest mountains ? — a light wave, 
 That breaks and whispers of its Maker's might." — Brainerd. 
 
 The spot on which we were standing was, on the 21st June, 
 1849, the scene of the following melancholy accident : — 
 
 The family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, visited the Falls in 
 company with a young man named Charles Addington. They 
 were about to leave the island, when Mr. Addington playfully 
 seized Annette, the little daughter of Mr. Deforest, in his arms, 
 and held her over the edge of the bank, exclaiming, " I am going 
 to throw you in." A sudden impulse of fear caused the child to 
 bound from his grasp and fall into the rushing stream. With a 
 loud cry of horror the young man sprang in to save her, and, ere 
 the stricken parents could utter a cry, they both went over the 
 Falls ! 
 
 The Falls consist of three, the " American," " Central," and 
 " Horse-Shoe," the last, and by far the grandest, being situated 
 
32 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 on tlie Canadian side, from whence the best view of them all is 
 obtained. The first-mentioned fall is 163 feet in height, 660 feet 
 wide ; Central same height, 240 feet wide ; and the Horse Shoe 
 163 feet in height, and 2000 feet in width. The waters running 
 down from the great lakes (for which the Niagara forms the 
 outlet) cover an area of 150,000 square miles ; floods so grand and 
 inexhaustible as to be utterly unconscious of the " ninet}^ millions 
 of tons" which they pour every hour, without ceasing, over these 
 stupendous precipices. The term "Isiagara" is of Iroquois ex- 
 traction, and signifies the " thunder of the waters." Terrapin 
 Tower occupies a singular and awful position ; as the guide-book 
 says of it, it appears to have " rushed in, as fools do, where angels 
 fear to tread." About fifty feet from Goat Island are some small 
 rocks, a few feet above the surface, with the water dashing madly 
 over them. On one of these the " Tower " is built ; it is of stone, 
 very small, and about forty-five feet high, connected with Goat 
 Island by a small bridge consisting of two or three planks laid 
 from rock to rock, and this being constantly wet and slippery 
 requires great care in crossing : from its summit the most sublime 
 view conceivable presents itself, but it requires well- strung nerves 
 to contemplate it calmly ; the waters rushing onwards to their final 
 leap, thundering and roaring as if they would carry both rocks 
 and tower into the dread abyss (which stands within twelve feet of 
 the extreme edge), making the stoutest heart quicken its beat, and 
 the fiercest eye quail as it glances into the awful depths below. 
 The Horse Shoe Eall is, as I have said before, by far the grandest 
 of the three ; it is computed by Professor Lyell that fifteen 
 hundred millions of cubic feet of water pass over its edges 
 every hour. A condemned vessel, the Detroit, was, in 1829, 
 sent over this fall, and, though drawing eighteen feet, she did 
 not touch the rocks in passing the brink of the precipice, show- 
 ing there must be a depth of at least twenty feet of water above 
 the ledge. 
 
 " Termination Eock " is a sort of cave formed behind the Horse- 
 Shoe Fall, and reached by the descent of a built stairway. Before 
 descending, visitors equip themselves in a complete suit of water- 
 proof garments, and, being thus prepared, we descended the steps 
 and followed our guide along a narrow^ and exceedingly slippery 
 platform of rock close to the precipice, and with sundry m.isgivings 
 in our minds as to the safety of the attempt ; however, having 
 heard that this feat has been performed by ladies, we deter- 
 mined to proceed, which we did with a quickened pulse, and 
 breathing with great difilculty on account of the dense spray, 
 which nearly blinded us. Quite deafened by the roar of the falling 
 cataract, we pushed on, having been informed by the guide, before 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 33 
 
 •starting, that upon arriving at tlie "worst" we must get on as 
 last as we could, it being easier to get beyond the sheet of waters 
 than to turn back ; when we got inside, after a very fair idea of 
 the sensation of drowning, what a sight presented itself! The 
 outward bend of the falling water, and the inward curve of the 
 precipice, form an immense cave ; the sun, shining full upon the 
 cataract, giving it the appearance of an immense mass of trans- 
 parent moving crystal, the flying spray forming rainbows of 
 many colours and in all directions completely bewildering the 
 astonished beholder; but as now our position was anything but a 
 comfortable one, and sundry misgivings as to our safe return pre- 
 senting themselves before our excited imaginations, we retraced 
 our steps as quickly as we could, feeling immense satisfaction at 
 finding ourselves once more on "terra firma." Decidedly this 
 undertaking is more pleasant to remember than achieve. We 
 spent this day in gazing in increasing rapture at the wonders 
 before us, and reluctantly left for our hotel, as night was dropping 
 her dark mantle over the scene. 
 
 After supper and a good night's sleep, we rose next morning 
 determined to witness the falls from the river. To gratify 
 visitors in this particular, a small steamer is kept running up 
 to the foot of the Horse-Shoe Falls every hour, or oftener if 
 required. She is appropriately named the " Maid of the Mist," 
 and is of 120 tons burden, and 100 horse power; she starts 
 about two miles below the falls, two shillings being the fare, 
 including the use of waterproof garments. After leaving the 
 landing stage, we steamed toward the falls, the greatest care and 
 skill being required in steering, in consequence of the eddies and 
 ever changing currents ; the little vessel steamed so closely b}-- the 
 " American " and" Central " Falls as to deluge us with the spray, 
 and then steered boldly, as it were, into the very jaws of the 
 foaming cataract, at the foot of the Horse-Shoe Fall ; where, stunned 
 by the thunder of the falling water, deluged and blinded with its 
 sprays, we almost fancied ourselves doomed to destruction ; but 
 no ; just in time the helm of the little vessel is shifted, and, 
 aided by her powerful machinery, she darts, as it were, from the 
 very jaws of death, leaving us to doff our oil-skins and wipe the 
 water from our eyes, by which time we are at the Canada ferry • 
 and in a few moments we find ourselves wending our way up the 
 cliffs, hardly having had time to collect our scattered senses with 
 a deep and lasting impression of the great fall engraved upon 
 our hearts. On ascending to the road, we find ourselves close to 
 Clifton-house, a magnificent English hotel, near which the sangui- 
 nary battle of " Lundy's Lane " was fought. The view of the 
 falls from this hotel is exceedingly fine, and being near the grand' 
 
 D 
 
34 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 fall possesses for visitors many advantages over others, as well as 
 the satisfaction of seeing the " Banner of Britain " proudly 
 waving over your head. A pleasant walk of about half-an-hour 
 brings us to the suspension bridge, a really noble structure, the 
 work of Mr. John De Boebling, of New Jersey. It was com- 
 menced in 1852 ; it is of enormous strength, being calculated to 
 carry over 12,000 tons ; is all wire-rope, and, as a work of art, for 
 strength, beauty of construction and simplicity, it stands unri- 
 valled. Its height above the rapids is 250 feet, span (single) 800 
 feet, width twenty-four feet ; the road for carriages and pedestrians 
 is suspended twenty-eight feet below the railway line. The four 
 large wire cables forming its principal support are ten inches in 
 diameter, and contain 4000 miles of wire. The total weight of the 
 bridge is 800 tons, its cost 100,000Z. sterling; each foot-passenger, 
 for crossing, with the privilege of returing the same day, pays one 
 shilling; for a carriage six shillings. About a couple of hundred 
 feet from the bridge, is the rope of the daring, but fool-hardy, 
 Blondin: we saw the plucky little fellow cross, and perform all 
 sorts of antics, over the boiling rapids. When he appeared, ready 
 to perform his wonderful feat, the wind was blowing nearly a gale, 
 and although entreated by many of those present to desist until 
 the fury of the wind had somewhat abated, the dauntless man 
 started forth upon the rope, heedless of the advice given him, and 
 in a moment this was his only support as he moved midway 
 between the yawning gulf beneath and the clouded heavens 
 which spread above ; and as he passed forward, his hair flying in 
 the wind, with diflaculty maintaining his position, a thrill of terror 
 passed through the frames of all present : with the greatest 
 trouble he proceeded along, the wind in its tempestuous fury 
 almost sweeping him from his slight foothold. Already two or 
 three guys had snapped through the force of the gale, but the 
 undaunted Blondin continued his journey. He now reaches the 
 centre, and calmly and complacently lies upon his back, and then, 
 gaining a sitting position, balances the pole across the rope, and 
 stands upon his head. He turns a somersault, and then resumes 
 his walk for the Canada side. Here, not satisfied with the danger 
 he had already undergone, he has his eyes blindfolded, and, get- 
 ting into a sack, starts on his return. His agent on the American 
 side trembled with fear, as he slowly and deliberately continued his 
 hazardous journey. He is more than half-way over when sud- 
 denly his foot slips, he staggers, and then, without the slightest 
 trouble, he once more sits upon the rope. The slip, as it appeared 
 to us, was only a ruse. Once more he starts for the American 
 side, and is soon received by a tremendous burst of applause. 
 But I derived no pleasure from witnessing such a performance ; for 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 35 
 
 tliougli I cannot but admire the extraordinary nerve and courage 
 possessed by this wonderful man, it seems to be a desecration of 
 a spot seemingly set apart for grave reflection ; it is no place for 
 a mountebank performance. We visited M. Blondin at his own 
 residence, in the village of the falls, and were introduced to bis 
 wife: a good tempered, lively little body, with a pleasing face. 
 Elondin him.self is a small spare man, standing about five feet, 
 with a cast in one eye, notwithstanding which his face is a pleas- 
 ing one ; they have two or three children. Mrs. Blondin presented 
 us with likenesses of her husband, and he himself with pieces of 
 the rope on which he walks, with a written guarantee to that 
 effect ; the rope is two inches in diameter, made of white hemp, 
 called by sailors Manilla rope. 
 
 A few words about the International Hotel, and then I must 
 reluctantly bid adieu to Niagara. This hotel is a most stupendous 
 as well as an elegant structure, containing every comfort, a capitally 
 served table loaded with the most reclierclie dishes ; but the most 
 remarkable thing in the establishment is the excellent manner in 
 which the waiters are drilled ; no confusion, but marching in and 
 out with dishes in double files like soldiers, to the music of a band 
 stationed in an orchestra in the upper end of the magnificent 
 dining saloon. One peculiar feature is the manner in which the 
 plates, &c., are placed upon the tables ; four waiters at each place 
 themselves in a row, one having plates, another knives, the third 
 forks, and the fourth spoons ; at the ringing of the conductor's 
 bell, the band strikes up the march in " Norma ; " the waiters march 
 round the tables keeping time to the music, their arms all going 
 together, the four at the same moment depositing on the tables the 
 articles they carry : it is really astonishing how quietly and orderly 
 everything proceeds owing to this excellent system. After an 
 early dinner and the settlement of our bills (charge lOs. Qd. per 
 day board), we started in a carriage, crossing the Suspension 
 Bridge for the last time, and stopping at the depot of the Chippewa 
 and Ontario Railway, having free passes in our pockets for a ride 
 to the city of Niagara, fourteen miles distant, standing on the edge 
 of Lake Ontario. This line of rail runs through a beautiful and 
 well cultivated country. After a ride of about forty-five minutes, we 
 arrived at Niagara, the terminus of the line ; and during the thirty 
 minutes which we stopped, we visited the steamer Northerner, about 
 starting for Toronto, and were much pleased with her excellent 
 accommodation for passengers. Lake Ontario from its shores pre- 
 sents very much the appearance of an inland sea, being of great 
 extent, and is ofttimes rufiled by severe storms. We returned by 
 train as far as the village of Chippewa, there taking the steamer 
 Clifton for Buffalo- On board this steamer was a return party of 
 drunken Irish excursionists, who had been celebrating Orange-day 
 
36 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 at Chippewa : we had but little peace during our stay on board, 
 for they were fighting the whole time. This trip by steamer has 
 but little to interest ; Chippewa, from which we started, is as far 
 in the direction of the falls as steamers dare venture. Buffalo 
 stands at the mouth of the Niagara, and, on the shores of Lake 
 Erie, its distance from Chippewa is twenty-two miles. It was 
 7.30 P.M. when we arrived there, and we immediately went on 
 board the lake steamer City of Buffalo : she is a beautiful 
 model, her lines nearly similar to the Great Eastern, painted 
 entirely white outside. Tonnage 2200 tons, and 340 feet long. 
 On entering the gangway, the first thing that struck me as a 
 novelty, on board ship, was a handsome marble fountain, playing, 
 with gold fish swimming in the basin. The saloons, cabins, &c., 
 were gorgeously elegant, surpassing anything of the kind I had 
 ever seen before ; the arrangements for passengers, &c., were perfect, 
 and the vessel as clean as a new pin. At 8 p.m. we started for 
 Cleveland on Lake Erie, distant 190 miles, arriving there at 7 
 A.M. the next morning, having travelled all night at the rate of 
 eighteen miles per hour. Before leaving the city of Bufl:alo we 
 partook of a hearty breakfast ; then landing, rode ofl^" to the Angier 
 House Hotel, and started thence to view the country. We were 
 much pleased with the pretty villas and their nicely arranged 
 gardens, &c, ; we visited the celebrated "water cure " establishment, 
 of which it is said in Cleveland that more whiskey is consumed 
 there than in any hotel. The trees and shrubs, as we drove along, 
 presented a very beautiful appearance, so fresh and green. This is 
 the second city in importance in the state of Ohio, and boasts of a 
 population of over 60,000 ; it is laid out with broad, well-paved 
 footways, but the roads are very bad, the centres being principally 
 formed of planks, in many places in a sadly dilapidated condition, 
 very dangerous for horses. After enjoying a very pleasant day, and 
 being treated with the greatest kindness by Mr. Taylor, the pro- 
 prietor of the hotel, we started at 8 p.m. on our return by the same 
 steamer, arriving at Buffalo at 7 a.m. next morning. The com- 
 mander of the steamer, Captain Perkins, behaved towards us with 
 the greatest kindness and courtesy, and would insist on treating 
 us as his guests. 
 
 Upon landing took up our quarters at the Mansion House Hotel, 
 and after breakfast went for a stroll through the town, and were 
 much pleased with the size and construction of the buildings 
 generally and the cleanliness of the streets ; the principal one, 
 Main Street, though not so long, I think quite equal in appearance 
 to the Broadway of New York, and more deserving the name. 
 The guide-books say of Buffalo (in 1858) " This important com- 
 mercial and manufacturing city has grown so great and so fast that 
 although it was laid out as late as 1801, and in 1813 had only 200 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 87 
 
 Louses, its population now numbers 80,000 (so that it may now be 
 calculated having at least 100,000 inhabitants !) it is an earnest of 
 the wonderful progress we shall see bj-and-bj in the Western 
 Cities." After a comfortable night's rest, we turned out at 8 a.m., 
 had breakfast and another short stroll through the town, leaving 
 by the 10.25 a.m. train on the New York and Erie Eailway for 
 Elmira. 
 
 Of the towns through which we passed it is useless, as I said 
 before, from so cursory a glance to attempt a description ; but as 
 to the country, no pen can do justice to its beauty. For very many 
 miles the track (to avoid cutting through the mountains) ran by 
 the side of the rivers iSusquehanna and Delaware, crossing and 
 re-crossing tliem several times ; the scenery on their banks is 
 most beautiful. 
 
 At 5.30 P.M., after a lovely ride, we arrived at the sweetly pictur- 
 esque town of Elmira, — a charming valley nest, with environino- 
 liill-ridges. JBode up to Haight's hotel, arranged our toilets, 
 enjoyed a hearty meal, and then sallied forth in the cool of the 
 evening for a ramble. After leaving the town (which is small and 
 of no importance) we found ourselves surrounded by charming 
 little villas, with here and there a good sized mansion, a small 
 stream running by the road, putting us much in mind of the 
 lovely scenery about Hampton Court, the sort of place a happy 
 couple might fancy an earthly paradise. 
 
 ' ' A cottage in this fairy scene, 
 Whose sheltering boughs seem ever green ; 
 The streamlet as it flows along 
 Seems murmuring forth a fairy song." 
 
 This town is celebrated for its Eemale College, a very large and 
 beautiful building, the lady pupils, studying for surgeons, lawyers, 
 &c. What would our own "dear ones" of England think of 
 an establishment of this kind ? I think the " Maids of merry 
 England " may be excused the endeavour to emulate their 
 American cousins in this particular. I saw some pretty faces that 
 would never do for surgeons, for I feel satisfied they would, if 
 called in, do more harm than good to the patient ; perhaps cure 
 him of the tooth-ache, and leave him with a heart-ache that 
 no skill could cure : still I should have no objection to being 
 attended by a lady practitioner, for we all know 8ir AYalter Scott 
 spoke the truth when he said of woman, 
 
 *' When pain or anguish wrings the brow, 
 A ministering aagel thou." 
 
 After enjoying a lovely moonlight walk we returned to our hotel 
 thoroughly tired, and then to bed. 
 
38 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 At 4 A.M. the next morning took our seats in the Cincinnati 
 express train for Jersey City (opposite New York). Passed 
 through some very wild mouutaiu scenery, stopping at a town 
 called Deposit for twenty minutes to breakfast, and after a ride of 
 ten and-a-halt' hours through a well cultivated country, arrived at 
 Jersey City at 2.20 p.m. Before leaving the traiji let me say a few 
 words concerning the regulations on the different lines; the roads 
 are well kept, time the same, and civility from the conductors the 
 order of the day. There is but one class of carriages, or "cars" as 
 they are called here, and they are open for communication from 
 one end to the other, so that the conductor walks the whole 
 length of the train, and gathers the tickets before arrival at a 
 station, thus saving detention. He is also able to walk from 
 the engine to the baggage van, giving him the opportunity 
 of seeing all is going right in the different parts of the train, 
 and consequently, this must add to its safety. Our own rail- 
 way officials might adopt a somewhat similar arrangement with 
 benefit to themselves and the public. After leaving the train 
 we crossed in the ferry-boat to I\ew York ; drove down to the 
 Great Eastern, and at 3 p.m. once more found ourselves " at 
 home." 
 
 From Monday 7th July to this date, Monday 16th, 26,821 persons 
 have visited the Great Eastern. A large fire occurred to day near 
 the ship, causing the destruction of thirty-seven houses ; three or 
 four days back, a fire of even greater extent occurred, totally de- 
 stroying a great number of small buildings, known as the Wash- 
 ington Market ; one took place on the opposite side of the bay, 
 the same night. Eires appear to be of very constant occurrence in 
 this city, though I am informed the arrangements for their sup- 
 pression are excellent ; the greatest difficulty to overcome being 
 the pugnacious disposition of the firemen belonging to the 
 different engines. A week back, a sanguinary fight took place 
 between them in this city, whilst proceeding to a fire, five men 
 being shot, and several others wounded ; this is rivalry with a 
 vengeance. 
 
 The Chicago Zouaves (a small volunteer force) visit the ship by 
 invitation to-morrow ; they are thus spoken of by the " "World." 
 
 " The nucleus of a Zouave regiment has been formed at Chicago, 
 and it is now in New York attracting much attention. On Satur- 
 day, the Chicago Zouaves were reviewed by the Mayor, and went 
 through their drill in the open space in front of the City Hall. 
 Among the thousands who saw their evolutions, were many w^ell 
 qualified to express an opinion upon them ; and the judgment of 
 these critics, we believe, was highly commendatory. The nature 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 39 
 
 of the evolutions, however, was such that any intelligent observer 
 could see their ohject, and judge of their effect; and upon the 
 mass of the spectators the impression was one of vivid pleasure. The 
 endurance, the celerity, and the spirited movement of the Chica- 
 goans, was no less commendable than their precision, inteUigence, 
 and skill in combination. They united, in a very high degree, 
 mobility, flexibility, and power of concentration. They are a fine 
 body of young men, about forty in number ; and they appear to 
 have a full supply of that nervous energy which enables the 
 American to bear more, and work longer, as well as more intelli- 
 gently, than men of other nations who have larger muscles. Their 
 system will be closely studied during their visit ; and ere long we 
 may expect to see a New York Zouave regiment in full charge 
 across the parade ground of Central Park." 
 
 Tuesday, July 17th. — Fine weather, but exceedingly -warm. 
 About 11 A.M. the Chicago Zouaves visited the ship, and thousands 
 flocked to see them, it having been given out that they would go 
 through their extraordinary drill on the quarter-deck ; they how- 
 ever came without arms, much to the mortification of the assembled 
 thousands. 
 
 The visit of a deputation from Philadelphia yesterday, for 
 the purpose of endeavouring to persuade the directors to take 
 the ship tliere, is thus alluded to by the " JN'ew York Express " 
 this evening; : — 
 
 " New York, July IQth — P. M. — The joint special Committee 
 of Select and Common Councils of the city of Philadelphia, — con- 
 sisting of Messrs. Stephen Benton, Henry Davis, and AYilliam 
 Bradford, on the part of Select Council ; S. H. Case, Chas. H. 
 Cramp, and William H. Baird, on the part of Common Council ; 
 and Eobert S. Reed and Lorin Blodget, on the part of the Board 
 of Trade, — appointed to visit New York for the purpose of 
 inducing the directors of the Great Eastern to visit Philadelphia, 
 arrived in this city at noon, and were formally received by Capt. 
 Vine Hall, on the Leviathan, with the utmost cordiality and 
 delight. The committee were first courteously shown over the 
 ship hy Capt. Hall, and then proceeded to the captain's private 
 apartments, where they were introduced to the officers of the 
 ship. Mr. Benton, the chairman, said that, ' He felt happy in 
 being the official bearer of the friendly resolutions of the city 
 councils of Philadelphia to the gentlemen connected with the 
 greatest mechanical enterprise of the age ; and he felt assured 
 that a favourable consideration of the invitation to bring the ship 
 to Philadelphia would result in a substantial advantage to those 
 whom the officers represented.' 
 
 " To this Captain Hall made a graceful response, in which he said 
 
40 THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 
 
 that the facts and arguments would be fairly weighed and dulj 
 considered, and it would afford him the highest gratification if the 
 ^hip could be taken to Philadelphia. 
 
 " The government coast survey charts were then laid before the 
 officers, and an earnest discussion took place between the Phila- 
 delphians and the representatives of the Great Eastern. It was 
 proved, conclusively, that ships with a draught of 254 feet could 
 be safely brought to Philadelphia, and the safe arrival of the 
 Cathedral was quoted as the proof. The ship was brought to 
 ihe city some months ago with the above-mentioned draught of 
 water, being unable to get over the bar at 'New York. 
 
 " Captain Hall assured the committee, that if the channel was 
 of the asserted depth, there would be no trouble in taking the 
 ship round, and he seemed quite delighted at the assurance of 
 the committee of the warm public interest felt in Philadelphia in 
 behalf of the proposed ' coming of the Leviathan.' It was posi- 
 tively ascertained that the first difficult point in the navigation of 
 the Delaware is the Hog Island Shoal, at Port Mifflin, which is 
 dangerous not only on account of the bar, but also the abrupt 
 angle of the channel ; but this can no doubt be safely got over. 
 
 "A chart of the river front was also shown, by which it was 
 clearly established that the ship could be moored at any point on 
 the river front from Kensington to the Navy Yard, in a depth of 
 from 40 to 70 feet, at which Captain Hall was delighted, and said 
 repeatedly, in his bluff, frank, hearty English way, ' It is a fine 
 river — it is a fine river ! ' There can be no doubt of this, for 
 with all the boasted superiority of the harbour of New York, the 
 Great Eastern is lying aground at low tide. The maps and charts, 
 together with the data and information carefully prepared in every 
 point, were left with the officers at the captain's request, with the 
 understanding that they desired another interview to-morrow 
 (Wednesday) at twelve o'clock. 
 
 " The committee were highly pleased with tlie kindness of the 
 captain, and they feel assured that it is already a fixed fact that 
 the Great Eastern wdll visit Pliiladelphia. Majiy inquiries were 
 made after well-known Philadelphians, particularly Captain James 
 West, the ' veteran of the Atlantic ; ' and much delight was 
 expressed on the part of the subordinate officers at the prospect 
 of the visit to the Keystone city." 
 
 The Philadelphians were, however, doomed to disappointment ; 
 for it was next day settled, the risk being considered too great, 
 not to attempt taking the ship there. Eight thousand persons 
 visited the ship to-day, among whom were a number of excur- 
 sionists from difterent parts. On the 18th, our commander, 
 accompanied by the surgeon and second officer, left on a trip to 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 41 
 
 Kiagara, the assistant-surgeou starting alone on a trip farther 
 west. Ship, as usual, full of visitors from 8 a.m., till 7 p.m. ; 
 weather very warm. A New Yorker accosted me this moniiug 
 with " Well, Mister, 1 reckon you've got a mighty fine ship here ; 
 1 guess you've licked us this time." Another said, " There 's a 
 mighty sight of iron about this ' boat ;' but I guess we can build 
 wooden ships : we want none of your darned iron in this ' free 
 country.' JSo you had to come to America to get the idea how to 
 build her ; suppose you know you stole the lines from us." One 
 old lady asked if the " donke}^ engines were not for conveying 
 visitors about the decks, 'cause, if so, she guessed she'd like a 
 ride." Questions of all sorts pour thick and fast upon us, and it 
 requires great forbearance to treat all comers with civility, some 
 questions reflecting anything but credit on the asker, and many 
 being downright insulting. On the succeeding day, the directors 
 officially announced, that the exhibition of the Great Eastern 
 would positively close on Saturday, July 25th, and that she would 
 positively sail for England, via Jialifax, on the 16th of August 
 next. In order to accommodate persons who desire to go on a 
 short excursion, a trip to Cape May has been decided on. This 
 will take place on Monday, July oOth ; and on Wednesday, 
 August 10th, the Great Eastern will return to New York. Tne 
 fare for the two days' trip will be ten dollars, exclusive of refresh- 
 ment, which will be provided on board. 
 
 About 10 P.M. last eveniuo:, a larg^e ball of bluish fire was seen 
 in the western sky, at an elevation of about 15 degrees ; its course 
 was about E. by S., and as it approached the meridiau it burst, 
 and then two reddish coloured meteors, with tails of streauiing 
 fire, with falling sparks, shot on towards the east ; the velocity 
 of these was about 20 degrees per minute. They travelled in 
 line, and at an equal elevation, disappearing in the east in about 
 two minutes after the phenomenon was first seen. 
 
 Sunday, 22nd. — Ship closed to visitors ; weather very fine, photo- 
 graphers at work taking views of different parts of-the ship. The 
 Kev. C. M. DenisoD, minister at the Seaman's Chapel, held 
 divine service on board, as also last Sunday. 
 
 Monday, 2^rd. — Strong southerly winds and much rain, clearing 
 up towards the afternoon ; we have two bands playing for the 
 amusement of visitors, one in the saloon, and Dodworth's 
 (celebrated as the best in the country), on the quarter-deck. A 
 great number of visitors on board this day, and on the succeeding 
 one the astonishing number of 16,300 had a look at the big ship ; 
 they were principally excursionists. T. P. Barjium made an offer 
 to buy up the whole of our Cape May excufsion tickets (they 
 are limited to two thousand), and pay 20,000 dollars in cash for 
 
42 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 them. The directors, however, very properly refused, determining 
 to dispose of not more than five to any one person. The crowd 
 on board this day was so great, as to render it a work of no little 
 difficulty to get about the decks. The papers to day are full of 
 accounts of the wonderful meteoric phenomenon of the 20th. lu 
 the evening I visited Mr. Barnum's American Museum, M'here, 
 for the charge of one shilling, amusements of all kinds are pro- 
 vided, including a theatrical performance (a seat in the boxes 
 being 7hd. extra), " cariosities," both living and dead, wax-figures, 
 very fine and well-stocked aquariums, the "happy family" on a 
 large scale; a living skeleton, lightnhig calculator, the Albino 
 family, with pink eyes and long silky white hair, and last, though 
 decidedly not least, a fat boy of seven years of age, weighing 
 257 lbs., and measuring 61 inches round the chest ! This 
 museum is well worthy a visit at six times the money. The 
 visitors (as before, mostly excursionists), attained on the 25th 
 the extraordinary number of 17,000. Visited, and had a long 
 conversation with, the Erench giant, M. Joseph (exhibiting in a 
 tent alongside the ship), from whom I learnt, that many years 
 ago he was performing at some of the London theatres, and was 
 well acquainted with the late Albert Smith, being then styled the 
 Belgian Giant. He is 7 feet 8 inches in height, weighing 
 4u01bs., and is a man of immense muscular powers. 
 
 Thursday, 2Qth. — Were visited, by invitation, by a ISTew York 
 volunteer Militia company, formed entirely of Scotchnien, wearing 
 the Highland costume. At 3 p.m. a heavy thunder-storm burst over 
 the ship, and it continued to rain heavily up to 7 p.m., much to the 
 discomfort of our numerous lady visitors, and the destruction of 
 their extensive silks and crinolines. We did what we could to 
 make them comfortable during the rain, giving up the use of our 
 cabins to them : such attentions are by some courteously acknow- 
 ledged, while others take them as a right. The word " private " 
 over a door in England would be sufficient to keep visitors from 
 entering, but not so here ; some two or three blackguards in the 
 face of that notice, entered the superintendent purser's cabin 
 while that gentleman was balancing his accounts, and on being 
 politely requested to withdraw, one of the ruffians unhooked a 
 large picture in a gilt frame hanging on a panel and threw it at 
 his head, smashing the picture to pieces. I niight mention several 
 outrages of the same kind, although some of the perpetrators did 
 not get off without a "receipt" for their "politeness." The 
 only notice taken of the ship to day by the press is the 
 following : — 
 
 " Last Days of the Great Eastert^-. — About 17,000 persons 
 visited the Great Eastern yesterday, filling the ship from the time 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 43 
 
 of openinf^ in the morniDg, until the gate was closed at night. 
 Dodworth's band struck up some lively music in the afternoon, 
 which gave much pleasure to the crowds that were present. 
 Notwithstanding the extraordinary number of visitors, all incon- 
 venience in seeing the various parts of the ship was prevented by 
 men stationed by the officers to answer all inquiries, and by the 
 new guide book, of which many avail themselves. 
 
 "The arrangements for the Cape May excursion are rapidly 
 progressing, and from present appearances, the excursionists will 
 be well provided for." 
 
 I am thus particular in inserting extracts from the different 
 papers, as I wish the New Yorkers to speak for themselves con- 
 cerning the Great Eastern, and to show how little it takes to 
 turn the current of popular favour to a swift running stream in 
 the contrary direction. On the following day (Friday), 18,000 
 persons visited the ship. Among them was one old gentleman, 
 perfectly blind, who had come all the way from AVisconsin, pur- 
 posely to "feel " the big ship. He was conducted round by some 
 friends, and asking for an explanation of all he "felt.'' He 
 appeared to derive considerable entertainment from his visit. At 
 7 P.M., great excitement was caused by observing a screw steam- 
 boat on fire at some little distance from the ship : it proved to be 
 the "T. C. Durant." She left her wharf with fifteen passengers, 
 including some women and children, and after getting into the 
 river, a fire was discovered in the after part under the main deck, 
 and near the boilers. The excitement among the passengers 
 became very great ; and the female portion ran about her decks 
 screaming and acting in a frantic manner : in less than ten 
 minutes the stern was enveloped in flames. The captain very 
 wisely ran her on shore, and thus saved all lives. The flames were 
 not extinguished tdl damage had been done to the amount of 
 5000 dollars. On the first alarm, three of the boats of the Great 
 Eastern were manned and cleared for lowering, but the intention of 
 the captain of the burning vessel to run her on shore being 
 perceived, they were not sent, as the people were out before the 
 boats could have got alongside. Blondin and his wife visited the 
 ship, and dined with us to-day, being much delighted with all 
 they saw. He expressed a wish to stretch a rope across our 
 mast-heads, and walk from one to the other. I learnt from him, 
 that while he was performing on his slack-rope over Niagara, 
 three days back, his gold medal (presented to him by the people 
 of Buftalo) fell from his breast into the boiling torrent belovy. 
 " I felt inclined to jump in after it," said he ; " but," turning to his 
 wife, " I thought of you, my dear, so just stopped where I was." 
 He seemed rather disconsolate at his loss, as he prizes anything 
 
44 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 of tliis sort very mucli. He intends crossing on stilts when the 
 Prince of Wales visits Niagara. The "Herald" of to-day has 
 the following : — 
 
 " The Great Eastern. 
 
 " AN IMMENSE CROWD— EIGHTEEN THOUSAND PEOPLE ON BOAED — ASSAULT ON 
 ONE OF THE OFFICERS — AMERICAN RUFFIANISM VERSUS ENGLISH COURTESY 
 — THE CAPE MAT EXCURSION — SLEEPING AND EATING — THE HIGHLAND- 
 ERS, &C. 
 
 " Eeader, do you want to see a crowd ? To be squeezed, reduced, 
 contracted and epitomised, dovetailed and wedged in; to be 
 scowled at by women and anathematised by men ; to have your 
 uninsured corn plantations remorselessly trod upon, and to groan 
 in the very vexation of spirit thereat ; to have parasols stuck in 
 your eyes, and elbows in j^our ribs ; your hat smashed, your 
 bosom mussed, or if a female, your crinoline compressed into 
 shapes so indefinite that geometry is defied to supply a name ; to 
 pay half a dollar for the privilege of being pummiced down by 
 constant attrition against your fellow men (to say nothing of the 
 women), and have an incomparable sweat-bath thrown into the 
 bargain ; to take your wife and daughter to see a show and be 
 treated to intermittent glimpses of it between your neighbours' 
 legs or over the summits of their heads ? In a word, do you want 
 to feel that you are nobody — neither a slice of lemon nor a lump 
 of sugar, but an amazingly small drop of a compound mixture in 
 which your natural identity is for the moment gone ? If so, go 
 on board the Great Eastern in these final hours of her visit to 
 American shores. 
 
 " People often frequent public places, no matter whether the 
 occasion be a sermon or a play, for the purpose mainly of seeing 
 the crowd. To all such we say go and stand an hour near the 
 passages of the big ship. AVe have mingled somewhat in the 
 miscellaneous multitudes of Gotham, and have been reduced to 
 dimensions smaller than nature ever intended, but in all our 
 metropolitan experience we have never seen any gatherings from 
 day to day to which that now daily coursing the decks of the big 
 ship would bear any comparison. 
 
 " The Academy of Music in its palmiest nights is ' not a touch 
 to it.' The Jenny Lind concerts, years ago, were only a circum- 
 stance, and so far as any other continuous entertainment can be 
 mentioned, we do not remember an instance, when, to follow up 
 our plebeian quotations, the crowd could ' hold a candle ' to that 
 which we have recorded as a part of the American history of the 
 Great Eastern. 
 
 " AA^e cannot afford a better illustration of the character of this 
 throng than to suppose a couple of our popular churches stationed 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 45 
 
 at either end of a short street, with their doors tlirown open for 
 the egress of a hungry audience about dinner-time. One of these 
 would fairly represent the going and the other the returning 
 throng. In this manner the excitement is kept up nearly the 
 entire day. The climax is reached about two o'clock in the after- 
 noon, but the stream of humanity continues its flow until four or 
 live o'clock, before the diminution is really perceptible. Even 
 then the decks are almost uncomfortably compact with visitors, by 
 reason of the presence of Dodworth's band, and the music they 
 daily discourse to the admiration of our country friends ; but it is, 
 nevertheless, a good time to make a tour of the ship. A still later 
 hour, say from half-past five to seven, is preferable, however, for 
 one can then look about without being subject to the annoyances 
 to which we have referred. 
 
 " The number of visitors on board yesterday up to one o'clock, 
 was not far from ten thousand, and from this time until about four 
 they grew in numbers at the rate of two thousand an hour, until 
 nearly nineteen thousand people had been recorded as having 
 entered the ship. 
 
 " The heavy shower in the afternoon produced a little lull, but 
 the scrambling on deck towards the lower regions to get out of 
 the wet, was quite as bad in its collective and individual results as 
 if several thousand people had been instantaneously added to the 
 number. Notwithstanding this immense presence, every person 
 was in due time favoured to his entire satisfaction with a complete 
 view of the -ship. Attendants were stationed at several of the 
 companion ways to prevent the rush, and to dispose of the crowd 
 as fast as it accumulated, while Mr. Bold, the general financial 
 manager of the Grreat Eastern Company, and Messrs. Machin, 
 Davis, and Wallace, officers of the ship, were unceasing in their 
 eflbrts to afi'ord proper facilities to all for enjoying their visit. 
 
 " There are some individuals, however, and we regret to acknow- 
 ledge it, who do not seem to appreciate kindness, no matter how 
 disinterested, and are always disposed, when they receive an inch, 
 to take an ell. One of this sort yesterday unceremoniously en- 
 tered the room of one of the officers. Supposing it to be a mistake, 
 the latter courteously remarked that it was a private apartment, 
 and not intended for exhibition. The fellow, who was meanwhile 
 fumbling at some account-book on the table, savagely replied, he 
 ' Didn't care a d — n what it was for ; he had paid his money, 
 and was bound to see all there was to be seen.' Being then 
 ordered to leave the cabin, he seized a large glass frame containing 
 one of the printed regulations of the ship, and with all his force 
 threw it at the officer, and backed out. Fortunately it did not 
 strike its mark, and more fortunately for the ruffian, the gentle- 
 man had the forbearance not to shoot him on the spot, as he had 
 
46 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 the means of doing, and as many others similarly situated would 
 have done, or even to have had him arrested and punished as he 
 deserved. 
 
 " In this connection, it may be added that there is not an officer 
 attached to the Great Eastern who is not a perfect gentleman and 
 entitled to gentlemanly treatment. They are courteous to our 
 citizens and to visitors far beyond the ordinary requirements of 
 civility; and if all the ladies and gentlemen who have visited the 
 ship and been the recipients of their hospitality, were called upon 
 to announce the fact, the record would show that they have not 
 been a whit behind our own residents in bestowing those dehcate 
 attentions which so quickly knit the friendly tie, even upon those 
 who have not the slightest claim upon them or an acquaintance 
 that extends beyond the passing moment." 
 
 Saturday, the 2Sfh, is the last day of exhibition prior to leaving 
 for Cape May. The ship as usual very full of visitors from all 
 parts of New York state. One lady, having three children with 
 lier, brought me a letter of introduction from Toronto in Canada; 
 her curiosity must indeed have been great to have brought her all 
 that way to see the Great Eastern, but I am ungallant enough to 
 believe that the last new fashions in some of the Broadway stores 
 had far more attraction. 
 
 The following is the register of visitors from the first day : — 
 
 First 5 days, at 1 dollar .... 8,578 
 
 Second week, at i dollar .... 26,821 
 
 Third „ „ .... 32,029 
 
 Fourth „ „ 76,336 
 
 Total .... 143,764 
 
 Having some conversation with a gentleman to-day upon the 
 subject of " equality," I related. to him this anecdote, which amused 
 him very much. Whilst in London, chief officer of an East 
 Indiaman, and lying in the East India Docks, I stepped out so 
 far as the lock entrance to witness the arrival of a vessel of the 
 same class just returned from Calcutta, called the Nile, the chief 
 officer of which ship (an old friend of mine), in the pride of 
 uniform and a safe return home after an arduous voyage, stood on 
 the forecastle returning the salutes of his numerous friends (some 
 eight or nine hundred people being assembled on Brunswick 
 pier). Under the bow of this noble ship, and blocking up the 
 entrance to the docks, was a lighter full of wet shingly ballast ; 
 the man in charge (an Irishman) was attired in a red cotton 
 nightcap, a very dilapidated blue serge shirt, a pair of old dirty 
 drawers and cluaisy boots completing his costume : he was com- 
 
THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 47 
 
 plncently sucking at a short black pipe. Mj friend hailed him 
 from the deck of his ship, some twenty feet above, with " Get out 
 of the way with that ballast-lighter, will you ? " This, twice 
 repeated, drew forth the following colloquy: — "Are you the 
 captain of that ship?" "No, I'm not," was the answer, "but 
 I'm chief officer." " Well," said Piiddy, with the most provoking 
 indifference, "spake to your aquals ; I'm captain of this one!" 
 Amidst the roars of laughter which followed this retort, my friend 
 vanished. 
 
 There were many visitors from the country on board this day : 
 the distant rural suburbs were well represented ; foreign-cut coats, 
 and antique shapes of all kinds of provincial habiliments were very 
 conspicuous. G-entlemen with much more health in their faces, 
 and less nap on their broadcloth, than is seen in Pifth Avenue, 
 were also present in goodly number ; while white-panted and 
 loose-jacketed Great Easterns were swaggering about the decks ; 
 and the officers, evidently in excellent health, mingled their 
 English rotundity of form with the fragile figures of the New 
 York belles. At 7 p.m our visitors were all rung out, and the 
 workmen commenced clearing awav the entrance and exit gang- 
 ways, and making other preparations for a move to-morrow. 
 
 Sundaif, 29th. — Dull, cloudy weather, and showers, with 
 strong 8.E, winds. Commenced at 6 a.m getting on board 
 moorings, anchors, &c. ; and at 4.30 p.m., being high water, and 
 steam ready, let go our fasts, and in the presence of eight or nine 
 thousand persons steamed off from the wharf and anchored in the 
 centre of the river, the whole operation not taking half an hour. 
 The first revolution of our immense screw-blades brought to the 
 surface the body of the unfortunate man who was drowned the 
 night after our arrival ; it was picked up, and after a coroner's 
 inquest, was decently interred. It rained with great violence the 
 whole night, with a strong wind from the S.E. 
 
 Monday, SO tJi. — The day appointed for our departure for 
 Cape May was fine and warm, with but little wind. The ex- 
 cursionists, to the number of about 1500, commenced arriving 
 at 1 P.M., in small steamers engaged for that purpose by the 
 directors, and at 4 p.m. they were all on board. Two of the best 
 bands procurable in New York, as well as our own, were provided 
 for the amusement of the music and dancing loving portion of our 
 friends. Extensive preparations had been made, and quite an 
 army of black waiters engaged to attend to their creature comforts ; 
 and over a thousand mattresses bought, in addition to our already 
 large supply, on which they might rest their wearied bones. 
 Everybody anticipated a pleasant two days' trip : for once, every- 
 body was mistaken ; but I will leave the tale to the reporter of 
 
48 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 the "New York Herald," whose narrative displays none of the 
 malice to be found in the other newspapers. 
 
 " The Geeat Easter^t Picinc. 
 
 " THE DEPARTURE OF THE LEVIATHAN FOR CAPE MAY. 
 
 " TWO THOUSAND PEOPLE ON BOARD — THE SCENE IN THE BAT — THE ESCORT AND 
 THE ENTHUSIASM — A NIGHT ON THE ATLANTIC— FUN, HUNGER, MISERY, AJJD 
 ItlATTBESSES — AN INDIGNATION MEETING ON BOARD — AMUSING SCENES AND 
 INCIDENTS — A MAN OVERBOARD — THE RETURN HOME, ETC., ETC., ETC. 
 
 " The history of the Great Eastern has been one of epochs. 
 Whether on the stocks or in the water, in the long process of a 
 launch, or the scene of a life-destroying explosion, on a passage 
 across the Atlantic, or as the focus of a multitude — from her 
 conception nn til the present moment, the events that have followed 
 each other thick and fast in her chequered career have partaken of 
 the stupendous character of tlie big ship itself. 
 
 " The present excursion ought not to be excluded from this cata- 
 logue, for while it is no uncommon occurrence for a company, much 
 greater in number than that now throbbing around me, to embark on 
 a jollification jaunt to a distant place, never, in the history of this or 
 any other country, has there been such a conglomeration of humanity, 
 such a scene and such surroundings, as those which characterise 
 this first pleasure peregrination of the colossal Queen of the Sea. 
 As such, it is worthy of a place in the current record of the times. 
 
 " A trip to Cape May is an event of ordinary occurrence ; but a 
 trip in the Great Eastern is another thing; and when it was 
 modestly announced in the journals of the day that she would 
 proceed thither for the purpose of affording the public an oppor- 
 tunity of personally enjoying such a voyage, there were few hearts 
 that did not pulsate in sympathy with the thought, * How I should 
 like to go.' One drawback, however, and a mot?t essential one, 
 too, prevented many from yielding to this first and strongest 
 impulse. With that keen eye to the interests entrusted to their 
 care which has throughout characterised the management of the 
 big ship on the part of the directors representing the Great 
 Eastern Company in this country, these gentlemen saw fit to 
 charge, for the privilege of a two days' sail, the high price of ten 
 dollars, exclusive of the keeping and necessary comforts of the 
 voyagers. Naturally, every one commenced his arithmetical cal- 
 culations. Here were four dollars extra for a berth in which to 
 sleep, at least two dollars a day per head for the privilege of 
 eating, an additional two dollars for a twelve hours' interval at 
 Cape May, and sundry other miscellaneous incidentals, which 
 would swell the expense well nigh upon twenty dollars. The 
 result was, that for the entire week following the advertisement 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 49 
 
 the utmost indifference appeared to prevail, and it was only now 
 and then that one could be found in the whole community anxious 
 to come forward and loosen his purse strings to the required 
 extent. Up to Saturday night this number amounted to the 
 insignificant figure of eight hundred, and the contemplated 
 excursion promised to be a magnificent failure. The threatening 
 weather of Sunday did not at all improve the financial prospect of 
 the undertaking, and it was only when the breaking clouds of 
 Monday, the culminating excitement of expectation, and the pro- 
 babilities of a splendid trip, lent their convincing aid, that the 
 public came forward and swelled the number to the limits which 
 is is understood had been set by the directors, namely, two 
 thousand. 
 
 ''the EMBARKATI03?'. 
 
 " As we have already stated, the G-reat Eastern hauled off into 
 the stream on Sunday afternoon, and there, lying just opposite the 
 mansion of Commodore Stevens, at Hoboken, she waited the 
 arrival of those who were to compose her party. In order to 
 accommodate the excursionists, two small steamers were provided, 
 which, at intervals of fifteen minutes or thereabouts, ran between 
 the ship and the foot of Hammond street, where they had been 
 requested to assemble. Here, on our arrival, a busy scene pre- 
 sented itself. First, was the crowd, so dense that it was almost 
 impossible to make one's way through it ; then we stumbled upon 
 a dozen or more carriages, bringing both visitors and lookers on ; 
 and, fi^nally, on arriving at the edge of the dock, we came upon the 
 little steamer that was to convey us on board. Three or four trucks 
 were drawn up in close proximity to the boat, loaded down with 
 mattresses, a part of the instalment ordered for the accommodation 
 of the passengers, and these were being passed to the deck of the 
 steamer. A pile of baggage lay on the wharf marked for Cape 
 May and Philadelphia, which looked as though some Elora 
 McFlimsey had judiciously selected the Great Eastern for her 
 journey, and from one to two hundred individuals were dovetailed 
 together in the little space allotted to passengers, anxiously 
 waitmg the termination of the loading process to which we have 
 alluded. 
 
 " Patience soon found its reward, however, and in a few minutes 
 we were ploughing the waters of the Hudson and alongside of the 
 Great Eastern. To run up the side stairway, present our ticket 
 to the oflB.cer at the gangway, pass the inspection of three or four 
 detectives who have been engaged for the purpose, is but the work 
 of a few seconds, and we find ourselves on board. A couple of 
 hundred have preceded us, and carpet bags and trunks strewn 
 
50 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 around, indicate that their owners either have determined to come 
 well provided with clothing and fodder, or that a large number 
 purpose extending their journey from Cape May to other points. 
 Several baskets here and there very plainly contain the good things 
 of life, and though a smile was excited at the thought of ' bring- 
 ing coals to Newcastle,' we have since had occasion to envy the 
 forethought which led their owners to look out for number one 
 before they started, rather than trust to the uncertain manage- 
 ment of the providers on board. 
 
 " Only a few minutes pass before another steamer approaches. 
 Its crowd of two or three hundred are discharged, and come hurry- 
 ing up the gangway, as we did before them. Dodworth's band 
 arrives, and the big fiddles and little fiddles, packages of music, 
 and musical instruments that follow them, give promise of a rich 
 treat to those who love the concord of sweet sounds. The load is 
 discharged, the lines are cast off, and the little minnow of a steam- 
 boat drops astern to give place to another, and another, and 
 another, until by two o'clock some two thousand people have been 
 transported from the shore, and are promenading the deck, listen- 
 ing to the music, discussing the approaching excursion, or 
 rambling in the abysses.of the vast ship which has attracted them 
 from their homes and business. 
 
 " It may be interesting to some to know the style of our ticket. 
 It was about as follows, for we write from memory : — 
 
 of 
 
 EXCUKSION TICKET. 
 
 STEAMSHIP GREAT EASTERN. . ^ 
 
 FROM NEW YORK TO CAPE MAT, AND RETURN. ^ 
 
 Leaving New York, July 30, at 3 p.m.; leaving Cape May, I 
 
 July 31, at 6 P.M. j 
 
 Price, Ten Dollars. ^ 
 
 J. H. YATES, Secretary. \ 
 
 " The company having now fully arrived, we have an opportunity 
 looking around and seeing 
 
 cc . 
 
 THE PEOPLE 0^ BOAED. 
 
 " It would be a task to name all of these, for they represent every 
 class and condition likely to be present on an occasion of this nature. 
 They come, too, from almost, if not quite, every State in the Union, 
 as well as from many of the countries of Europe, to say nothing 
 of Africa, which a score of dark-skinned waiters on board almost 
 constantly call to mind. Millionaires, ministers, lawyers, editors, 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 51 
 
 reporters, doctors, tradesmen, poets, artists, authoresses, poli- 
 ticians, gamblers, prize-fighters, and gentlemen at large, all pass 
 in review, and give to the assemblage a cosmopolitan character 
 which it could not possibly have in any city outside of New 
 York. Quite a considerable proportion is composed of ladies, 
 and, strange to say for such a gathering, there is not one observable 
 on whom suspicion can for a moment rest. 
 
 " Messrs. Dickson, Young, Farley, Radford, and Duzenbury, 
 detectives, and Captain Seabring, of the Ninth precinct, are also 
 on board, and though their services have not as yet been required 
 their presence has doubtless been valuable, on the principle that 
 ' an ounce of preventive is worth a pound of cure.' 
 
 " It was amusing, however, to watch this variegated throng as 
 they came on board. 
 
 " ' "Where's my state room ? ' was the universal inquiry, and in- 
 variably the first movement was in the direction of the imaginary 
 place where they were to repose, or the imaginary individual who 
 kept the keys to these Morphean recesses. Officers, servants, 
 seamen — people of all others on the ship the least capable of im- 
 parting the required information — were buttonholed, annoyed and 
 victimised by the impatient crowd, until they were almost hoarse 
 with—' Go to Mr. B.' 
 
 "' Who's Mr. B.?' 
 
 '' ' The man with the blue ribbon around his hat and book under 
 his arm — who is always taking snuff".' (We may also add that 
 he is the financial manager of the affairs of the ship.) 
 
 " The result is that the brunt of these attacks fell upon the un- 
 fortunate gentleman whose ' blue ribbon ' made him such a con- 
 spicuous mark of attraction. "With a fund of pleasantry, however, 
 which, like a shrewd politician he knew how to use, the pertinacious 
 applicants were requested to wait until after the starting of the 
 ship, and for the time he was left to enjoy his snuff'-box and 
 neuralgia in something like the peace he coveted. 
 
 " It was now about three o'clock. 
 
 " THE APPEAEANCE OF THE CEOWD. 
 
 " At this time it was interesting in the extreme. So far as 
 numbers are concerned, they exceeded even those who witnessed 
 the arrival of the Great Eastern. On both sides of tlie river, as 
 far as the eye could reach, up and down, the shore was black with 
 people. Housetops, hillsides, wharves, ships, barges, rigging — 
 everything that afforded foothold to see the spectacle, was occupied. 
 Immediately around the ship lay a score of steamboats, tugs, row- 
 boats, and small craft, all loaded to the water's edge and waiting 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 THE GREAT EASTEEN S LOG. 
 
 the departure of the ship. 
 however, 
 
 Owing to the perversity of the tide, 
 
 THE STAET 
 
 did not take place until after four o'clock. As we have before 
 remarked, the Great Eastern lay with her head up the stream. In 
 order to turn the gigantic vessel the steamtugs Achilles and 
 Yankee were employed, but for more than half an hour after the 
 huge anchor left its muddy bed — the largest by the way that ever 
 rested on the bottom of the Hudson — they strove with might 
 and main to bring her into proper position. The ship yielded 
 gradually, however, and at a quarter to five o'clock the revolution 
 of the paddles and the screw, and the long white wake behind, 
 announced that we were fairly on our way to sea. 
 
 " The scene that now ensued is one that cannot be soon forgotten 
 by any individual who witnessed it. The multitude of humanity 
 was visible on every side. On shore the eye rested upon nothing 
 but crowds, extending even back into the country as far as the 
 vision could reach, and on the water eighteen or twenty steamers 
 loaded to the guards, bedecked with colours, whistling their 
 enthusiasm and thundering their salutations, glided along in the 
 huge shadow of the Great Eastern as it trembled in the waters of 
 the bay. We did not count all of tliese, but the following are 
 the names of those recalled to mind at the present moment, 
 together with the estimated number of passengers on board : — 
 
 Keyport . 
 
 250 
 
 Flora 
 
 . 700 
 
 Flushing 
 
 . 400 
 
 Columbia 
 
 . . 700 
 
 Delaware 
 
 700 
 
 Paterson . 
 
 . 700 
 
 Tiger .... 
 
 400 
 
 Francis G. Speight 
 
 . . 600 
 
 Eed Jacket . 
 
 700 
 
 J. S. Darcy 
 
 . 600 
 
 Thos. Hulse 
 
 300 
 
 Hudson 
 
 . . 400 
 
 Jas. A. Stevens 
 
 400 
 
 J. B. Frazer 
 
 . 900 
 
 Hendrik Hudsou . . 
 
 3,000 
 
 
 
 
 Thos. Hunt . 
 
 500 
 
 Total 
 
 . 11,750 
 
 Satellite . 
 
 700 
 
 
 
 " Onward we ploughed, passing the crowded Battery, the revenue 
 cutter Harriet Lane, Governor's Island, Staten Island, the 
 Narrows, and other places about which the story has already been 
 told. Without, it is not difficult to imagine the appearance of 
 twenty steamers, loaded down to the water's edge, constituting 
 an aquatic escort, of which none could be a more worthy object 
 than the noble ship upon which we are ; while within and around 
 us the excursionists have betaken themselves to every locality on 
 the ship where they are not positively forbidden, to enjoy the 
 spectacle. Some are in the tops- others are scattered through the 
 rigging ; many of the ladies have taken the platforms at the base 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 53 
 
 of the wlieelhouses, "while the majority of the passengers are 
 located along the bulwarks, standing on tiptoe, with their glasses 
 peering at the ten thousand objects of interest around. 
 
 " The day is glorious. The ragged, threatening clouds have 
 broken away in great masses, that are rolling off in the distance. 
 The warm sunshine has tinged all nature with its loveliness, and 
 the brightest anticipations of a pleasant excursion bid fair to be 
 realised. 
 
 " THE BAE. 
 
 " I do not mean the bar on board, but the bar off Sandy Hook, 
 about which so many country editors have written the most fear- 
 fully discouraging leading articles. Little occurred during the 
 sail down the bay worthy of addition to what has already been 
 indited ; but as we progressed towards the bar the interest among 
 the passengers to see a locality about which so much has been 
 said, led them to take places where they could command a view 
 of the operations, and satisfy themselves by a personal inspection 
 of the dangers of the place. Consequently they looked long and 
 earnestly. They scanned the water with their glasses, then the 
 bronzed face of pilot Murphy, then the captain, and then the 
 water again ; but we venture to say that few of them had any 
 more idea of the real locaHty of the spot than did our Japanese 
 friends of the constitutional morality of their Aldermanic con- 
 freres. The passage took place at twelve minutes past seven o'clock. 
 The ship drew twenty-four and a half feet of water, and it is 
 needless to say she went over without the slightest difficulty. The 
 engines were ' slowed,' and a little more watchfulness was evident 
 on the part of the officers, but aside from these incidental features 
 of careful navigation, nothing occurred to indicate an extraordinary 
 event. In fact, it seems to have been plainly proven that the 
 Great Eastern may be as easily brought into the bay of New 
 York as any other ship that has ever sailed in and out of it, and 
 that the thousand and one stories respecting the absence of suffi- 
 cient water and the dangers of navigation, are idle fabrications of 
 the hour. 
 
 " At this point our escort left us. The little fleet of steamers 
 that had been flitting about like so many flying flsh, one by one 
 dropped astern, parting cheers were exchanged, and the Grreat 
 Eastern, alone and unattended, stood on her stately way towards 
 her ocean-bound destination. 
 
 " The working of the massive machinery of the ship during this 
 period was perfect. Nothing could have been more beautiful or 
 wonderful. Without noise or jar — without even sufficient vibra- 
 tion to disturb the surface of the oil in the cups that revolve with 
 
54 THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 the huge rods — the immense complication moved with a power 
 that seemed almost sup ernatu rally sublime. The ship likewise 
 behaved admirably, and, though occasionally yielding to the long 
 ground swell of the Atlantic, it was always with such gentle grace 
 and easy movement that it was impossible to be so uncompli- 
 mentary as to succumb to even a single sea sick qualm. An hour 
 or two later, however, we did see a few ladies and weakly gentle- 
 men from the country, looking very much as if they could't help it; 
 but the cause was doubtless due quite as much to their preced- 
 ing carnivorous exploits as to the graceful undulations of the 
 ship. 
 
 " SUPPEE. 
 
 " It was now what a sentimental miss would term ' the lovely 
 and languid hour of twilight.' A majority of those on board had 
 provided themselves with a hearty dinner before coming on board, 
 but with a sea breeze in one's composition for six hours it is im- 
 possible to resist the pangs of hunger at some time, and the con- 
 sequence was that as soon as the bar was passed a rush took place 
 for supper that reminded us of the double quicks'tep charge of the 
 Zouaves at the Academy of Music the other night. The simile 
 might be followed up by the remark that they didn't enjoy a much 
 better opportunity of doing execution. It was merely a charge 
 * at ' and not ' into.' In other words, the feeding arrangement, 
 from beginning to end, was a specimen of mismanagement and in- 
 experience that might have been expected from some half civilised 
 Hottentot, whose brains and taste had been used up in acquiring 
 the little information he knew, but which one would not look for 
 in any representative of that august body — the Great Eastern 
 Steamship Company. The meals, and the manner in which they 
 were served up, were hardly worthy of comparison with the style 
 of ' Dotheboys' Hall.' In fact, ' Old Squeers ' himself, merely 
 minus his bowl of molasses, galvanised into life for the occasion, 
 might, without a great stretch of imagination, have been seen 
 strutting around his scanty boards, in the well developed rotundity 
 of the provider of the ship, as complacently as if his tables groaned 
 under the fat of the land. Perhaps they did, but the sub- 
 scriber didn't see it. We thought to ourself that he would be an 
 unlucky Lazarus who was compelled to wait for crumbs at the 
 door of such a Dives. 
 
 " We shall not attempt a description. There was a good deal of 
 spoon, some tablecloth, and a variety of incidentals pleasant to 
 look upon, but as for the food, its appearance was as rare as a 
 comet. The coffee gave out on the second round. It cost a fee 
 of half a dollar merely to breathe the passing incense of a cup. 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 55 
 
 Chickens smelt all over of antiquity ; ham was salt, beef tough ; 
 tongue was nowhere, and ice, of which several tons had been 
 shipped in the morniug, was said to have given out. In fact, a 
 general famine would have overwhelmed all hands if the ship had 
 been a meal and a half away from land. The waiters, too, were, 
 with a few exceptions, rare specimens of their species. One of 
 these exceptions— and we are glad to notice them — was the carver 
 of the second dining saloon, who became so disgusted with the 
 whole proceeding that he laid down his knife and cleared out in 
 disgust. Another was a gentle old darkey, whose shaved head and 
 .gathered topknot made him look like a venerable edition of a 
 Japanese. The passengers called him the ' Tycoon,' and scores 
 of ladies and gentlemen are indebted to his impartial care. 
 
 " As for the rest, they were a set of unmitigated rascals. They 
 would lie, cheat, steal your chairs, and almost your money. We 
 heard one asked by a gentleman for a cup of coffee. ' All out,' 
 was the reply. ' Go and get a little for my lady, won't you ? ' 
 ' Go to hell,' was the response, sotto voce, and the villain went 
 off, with a mad flourish, as if he was going to tear the kitchen 
 down. Others were perfectly blind and deaf, metaphorically 
 speaking, to all inquiries, and it was only when their palms were 
 scratched with the evil root, which they did not hesitate un- 
 blushingly to ask for, that they seemed at all to comprehend that 
 they had been industriously requested to obtain a desired article 
 of food. 
 
 " Wines, soda, and other liquors have been sold in large quantities ; 
 but I must say it, to the credit of the two thousand people, that I 
 have not yet seen a single individual in a state of intoxication. 
 
 "A very judicious arrangement, had it been successfully carried 
 outj would have been the publication as follows, of 
 
 THE SCALE OF CHARGES FOR REFRESHMENTS ON THE 
 GREAT EASTERN. 
 
 Tea and coffee, per cup 
 
 . 6 
 
 Claret, quarts . . . $1 50 
 
 Ham and Beef, per plate 
 
 . . 25 
 
 Sandwiches . . . .12 
 
 Ham and chicken, do. 
 
 . 30 
 
 Veal and ham patties . .12 
 
 Tongue, do. 
 
 . . 25 
 
 Beef ^ la mode ... 25 
 
 T 
 
 Ices 
 
 . 15 
 
 Biscuit and cake, each . . 6 
 
 Mint julep, per glass . 
 
 . . 12 
 
 Lager bier, per glass . . 10 
 
 Sherry cobblers, do. 
 
 . 12 
 
 Brandy, gm, rum and whiskey 12 
 
 Claret, do. . 
 
 . . 12 
 
 Cider, | pint . . . .25 
 
 Milk punch, | glass 
 
 . 12 
 
 Champagne, quarts . $2 00 
 
 Iced milk , 
 
 . . 10 
 
 Do. pints . . 1 25 
 
 Cocktails 
 
 . 12 
 
 Sherry, quarts . . . 1 50 
 
 Soda -water, lemonade, cream soda, sarsaparilla, each, 12 c. 
 To prevent mistakes, passengers are requested to pay on delivery. 
 
 " For the first two hours at dinner by this means every individual 
 succeeded in having himself waited upon, received his dish full of 
 
56 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 pabulum, or rather the quantum prescribed, paid for it, and tra- 
 velled. At present, however, thej seem of little more use than so 
 many pieces of useless table furniture, and for practical purposes 
 are laid aside. People are eating whatever thej can get. One of 
 my neighbours at a table said a few minutes ago that he had had 
 four consecutive rear ends of chickens in two meals, and was then 
 at work upon the fifth, with a view to test a sixth, and continue 
 the experiment until he had definitely ascertained whether or 
 not any other part of that biped's anatomy had been brought on 
 board. 
 
 " If the question was asked, to whom does the blame belong ? I 
 should say the provider, head steward, or caterer of the ship — a 
 person by the name of C — . By a contract with the company he 
 retains the privilege of feeding all persons on board the ship, from 
 director to visitor, at certain prices, which are mutually fixed. I 
 was informed that two or three others were also engaged with him 
 in the speculation, and between them all they have succeeded in 
 leeching the pubhc to an extent they will never enjoy again. They 
 have neither the ability to plan nor the tact to execute, and as far 
 as regards providing for the wants of two thousand people in the 
 rough and tumble manner they have set about, it would have been 
 quite as wise to have made a miscellaneous mixture of all that 
 was to be eaten and drank in one big pot, divided a spoon among 
 the multitude, and told them to go at it. Mr. C — may be a good 
 man personally. We don't know him. He may have very excellent 
 intentions, a benevolent disposition, and a strong constitution ; he 
 may be punctual in his church attendance, reliable in his domestic 
 duties, and unimpeachable as a citizen : but, notwithstanding all 
 this, to-day has fully demonstrated that whatever may be his other 
 virtues of head, heart, or person, Mr. C — * can't keep a hotel.' 
 
 " THE FIGHT 02T BOAED. 
 
 " How shall it be described ? It requires the brush of the painter 
 more than the pen of a writer. In fact, the scene is not to be 
 described. While I indite, men and women are preparing to 
 ^turn in,' with such accommodations as the ship affords. But, 
 notwithstanding the' thousand extra mattresses provided, the care- 
 ful arrangements that were supposed to have been made concerning 
 the disposition of the state-rooms, and the boasted facilities of the 
 big ship for carrying any number of passengers, more than one- 
 third will fail to secure anything on which to lay their head but 
 the iron walls of the vessel, a coil of damp rope, or what sailors call 
 the 'soft side of a plank.' It is about eleven o'clock. The people in 
 the saloons, especially gentlemen accompanied by ladies, are fran- 
 tically flying from pillar to post, first in search of Mr. B — , then 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 57 
 
 of Mr. Y — , and vice versa, until these gentlemen liaye got into 
 such a sweat in their efforts to accommodate, that they have had 
 to shut themselves up in their state-rooms to cool off. Something 
 has gone wrong. The state-rooms have either got mixed, or the 
 people have, and the result is that a man occasionally finds himself 
 in one place and his wife tucked away somewhere else. Many 
 who have paid for berths have been deprived of them entirely, and 
 take their chances with those who have trusted to luck and dis- 
 posed of themselves in regular camp style. 
 
 " The picture of the saloons from stern to stem — for everything 
 is reckoned backwards in this ship — is something like the fol- 
 lowing : — First is the bar, now covered with saturated tablecloths, 
 broken glasses, and empty bottles. Next a couple of the dining 
 saloons, in which the waiters are hurriedly clearing away the 
 debris of the day's work. Then we approach the ladies' saloon. 
 Entering here we see on one of the velvet sofas a brace of children 
 spread out at length, their mother watching over them. Indi- 
 viduals are lying under the tables and scattered promiscuously 
 around the floor. The same scene is repeated in the forward 
 ladies' saloon, with the exception that more ladies compose the 
 tableaux, and make a considerably wider spread. None of them 
 have coverings other than their own shawls ; and the melody 
 which their sonorous snores create might well have suggested the 
 idea of an Eolian harp. It is hot and oppressive, however, and 
 we hurry out 
 
 " O^ DECK. 
 
 " Here we get the crSfiie cJe la crime of this midnight somno- 
 lescence. The sleepers are stretched out in all sorts, styles, shapes, 
 forms, angles, and conditions. They emphatically lay around loose, 
 looking very much as if they had been poured out of some big bag 
 in a state of dilution and left to settle. You can begin to describe 
 them anywhere. Some are packed away on the tops of the cabins, 
 some are lying close alongside the bulwarks, some are sitting bolt 
 upright, reposing obliquely, and stretched out on the straightest 
 horizontal. Two individuals, more enterprising than the others, 
 have sewed themselves between two mattresses, and are trying to 
 nap it ; but every now and then some joker sits down on the 
 bulging pile and educes a series of groans and maledictions that 
 would wake the seven sleepers. A New York reporter and one of 
 the detectives — a very fat one by the way — have quite sensibly 
 crawled into a sheep-pen for the purpose of being undisturbed : 
 but a party of promenaders have discovered their retreat, and for 
 the last ten minutes they have been trying to provoke the wrath 
 of the caged individuals to see whether the fat man can get out. 
 
58 THE GEE AT EASTEHN's LOG. 
 
 " A speculative individual mounts the pen and exhibits tliem as 
 wild animals, in a strain something like the following : — 
 
 " ' Here, gentlemen, are some of the most extraordinary freaks 
 of nature — animals that won't live upon the land and are bound to 
 die in water. We have to feed 'em on seventeenth proof whiskey, 
 which one man shoots into them with a double-barrelled squirt 
 gun, while another holds their legs — a most interesting spec-ta-cle. 
 Only five cents, and the refreshments thrown in. deeding time 
 in fifteen minutes.' 
 
 " A great crowd gather around, and the sport that ensues is im- 
 inense. The reporter begs to be let out ; has got lots of work to 
 do ; is in a great hurry, and make any quantity of excuses, but 
 they don't ' take,' and a battery of conversation is fired oft' 
 between the besiegers and the besieged. Among the visitors is 
 George Wilkes, who, after a good laugh, ventures to inquire, 'Who 
 put the animals in there ?' 
 
 " ' The directors,' was the reply. 
 
 " ' Can't you get out ? ' 
 
 " ' No ; they've fastened us in.' 
 
 " ' How do you like your pen ? ' 
 
 " ' The pen,' says the fat man, in a deep ventricular voice. ' In 
 my opinion, sir, the pen is mightier than the sword.' 
 
 " ' Ha ! ha ! ha ! he ! he ! he ! ho ! ho ! ho ! ' cachinnate the 
 crowd, at this witticism. ' Three cheers for the fat freak of 
 nature,' which are given with a will. 
 
 " ' How often do they feed you ? ' says one. 
 
 " ' Hain't been fed at all.' 
 
 " ' Call the directors ! Here's a case of starvation,' cries an 
 individual on the outskirts. 
 
 •' 'K'o; get 'em something to eat,' responds another. Porthwith 
 a chap starts down the gangway, and, though it is midnight, 
 in five minutes returns with the carcases of two Great Eastern 
 chickens. 
 
 " ' Where did you get them ? ' 
 
 " ' Found 'em under C — 's bunk.' 
 
 '" Good for him.' 
 
 " ' Hungry ? ' inquires the chicken man, as he temptingly rubs 
 them across the bars near the noses of the victims, like the keeper 
 of a menagerie. 
 
 " ' Yes, of course we are.' 
 
 " ' Can you smell it ? ' 
 
 " ' Yes, it's good and strong. Put it in here.' 
 
 " ' Well, growl ! if you want it.' 
 
 " ' Ugh h-h-h,' growl the ' animals ' in the most capacious and 
 artistically bestial manner, and amid the cheers and laughter of 
 
THE GEE AT EASTERN'S LOG. 59 
 
 tlie crowd. Tlie menagerie is fed, accordingly, the cliicken being 
 passed in on the end of a long pole. 
 
 " Somebody passes in a drink to wash the solids down, and the 
 fun increases. 
 
 " Here, again, are family groups. A wife is tucked in between 
 two settees, and the husband sleeps crosswise. Another chap has 
 a table turned upside down, and is snoozing at a two forty pace 
 between the legs. Here are more piled away like mummies in 
 the most unimaginable places possible, which only would enter 
 the conception of a sleepy man. In short, from stem to stern, 
 there is a row of beds and bodies which give the scene an appear- 
 ance like that of a hospital filled with the victims of some prevail- 
 ing epidemic. 
 
 " Of course, in such a party there is fun — plenty of it. One 
 group especially appears to be the centre of attraction. Three or 
 four of the number are stretched out on their mattresses in the 
 centre of the deck, while the crowd stand in a ring around them, 
 and join in the laugh, the song or repartee. After a while one is 
 introduced to make a speech, but, being unaccustomed to this 
 work, he invites what he calls one of his ' Zou Zous,' whom he 
 styles the ' Prize Baby,' to do it for him, whereupon the Prize 
 Baby is received with cheers, and proceeds to publish to the 
 crowd his diet, which he says consists of four hard boiled eggs and 
 a blackberry three times a day, in soap and water (applause and 
 laughter). This effort evidently finishes him, and he introduces 
 his friend, ' Signor Mickey Earina, the celebrated Italian tenor, 
 the greatest living artist of the age.' The tenor responds, in 
 ' sweet Irish brogue,' by a touching melody, which he denominates 
 ' a parody on the Dutch cheese.' Another is introduced as 
 ' Col. Bobolinkibus, aid to Gen. Garibaldi in the Mexican war,' 
 and requested to ' turn around and show his honorable scars,' 
 which are of course behind. As the capillary substance on the 
 summit of his head is exceedingly brief, somebody proposes 
 ' three cheers for the man with the sand-papered head,' which 
 are given with a will, and the military gentleman subsides upon 
 his mattress. So the jokes go round. Everybody is good-natured, 
 and witticisms fly thick and fast in every direction. 
 
 " It would require half a page to record the amusing incidents 
 connected with this party alone. The ' beasts ' were poked up 
 with long poles, while the people cheered, shouted, yelled, hauled 
 the cage around, squirted water with the hose, and raised the Old 
 Nick generally. 
 
 " ONE o'clock. 
 
 " Some persevering individual has cured Dodworth's man of his 
 
60 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 ails and aches, and the string band are on deck, making music for 
 a score or so of dancers. They are all men, however, and as a 
 * stag ' affair, nuw and then interspersed with gymnastics and 
 mattresses, it is irresistibly funny. The ladies seem as lively as a 
 brood of canary birds with long tails, and though they do not 
 indulge in the sport physically, their merry ringing laughter 
 endorses the amusement as beyond reproach. Somebody has just 
 proposed a mattress race, and hardly are the words out before 
 fifty men, with beds on their backs, have started off on a scrub 
 match by moonlight. How it terminates of course it is impossible 
 to see, but there is an amount of jollity in the occasion sufficient 
 to stock a dozen ordinary parties of a similar kind. An hour or 
 so of this active exercise soon wears them out, however, and by 
 three o'clock the whole group, in fact the whole deck, is in a state 
 of profound slumber. 
 
 " I was informed that at about two o'clock one of the mattresses 
 was discovered to be on fire, owing to the careless distribution of 
 a segar, and for a moment it threatened to endanger the rigging. 
 It was extinguished, however, by a few buckets of water, without 
 alarm to any one. It would be difficult for fire to make much 
 headway, for hose are laid fore and aft on deck ready for 
 instant use, and not even a segar is permitted below the main- 
 deck. 
 
 " rom o'clock. 
 
 " Night's candles begin to burn out, and the twilight gray in her 
 sober livery to mark the footsteps of the approaching dawn. The 
 heavy dew of the night, mingling with the cinders from the smoke 
 stacks, has converted the deck into a huge mud puddle, and the 
 faces of unconscious sleepers are black and sticky with the dirty 
 damp. Hats, coats and garments in a dilapidated condition are 
 scattered around, and the scene is one that Hogarth might well 
 have immortalised, 
 
 " By six o'clock the sleepers are nearly all up, but a sorrier 
 looking set of ' human forms divine ' our eyes never rested upon. 
 Mad, tired, stiff, sleepy, dirty and sticky, with hair and eyes full 
 of cinders, they get off their individual mattresses like so many 
 fretful porcupines. And now another chapter of the mismanage- 
 ment is developed. There is neither water to wash nor drink. 
 Complaints come thick and fast. One man has paid a dollar for a 
 basin full ; another gratefully bestowed a quarter for a glass of 
 ice water, wliich he barely obtained, while two or three reporters 
 came from the nether regions, looking as pale and languid as if 
 they had been drawn through a succession of brush fences. They 
 say that somebody will have to suffer for it, and if one may judge 
 
THE GKEAT EASTERN S LOG. 61 
 
 from their manner, their matter, like Jersey lightning, will kill at 
 fortj paces. 
 
 "the movement oe the ship. 
 
 " During the night the paddle engines had a pressure on their 
 boilers of twenty pounds of steam, and the wheel was revolving 
 twelve times per minute. The screw boilers had the same 
 pressure, and the screw was revolving thirty times per minute, the 
 combined pressure of which was giving the ship a speed of about 
 thirteen knots per hour. Every half hour the look-out men might 
 have been heard calling from their stations, and at four o'clock 
 the heaving of the lead indicated the depth of water to be twenty- 
 four fathoms. The ship was then headed westward, and then was 
 experienced for the first time the heavy ground swell, which 
 made it difficult for one unaccustomed to the deck of a ship to 
 maintain his equilibrium, and for ever set at rest the notion, if 
 such was ever entertained by any individual on board, that a ship 
 can be built large enough to resist the swell of the ocean. 
 
 " The ship arrived off Cape May about seven o'clock, having 
 stood so far out to sea during the night as to be delayed a little 
 beyond the time when it was expected she would make anchorage. 
 
 "an INDIC4NATI0N MEETING. 
 
 " During the morning an indignation meeting was held on 
 board on the quarter deck, in which Mr. William Pilmer, of 
 Brooklyn, officiated as Chairman, and Dr. John Howe, of jS'ew 
 York, as Secretary. The following resolutions, drawn up on an 
 empty stomach and with unwashed faces, were submitted and 
 passed with a will : — 
 
 " ' "Whereas, from the previous reputation which the Great 
 Eastern and her officers had established in the United States, the 
 gentlemen and ladies who embarked on the excursion to Cape 
 May, expected, and had a right to expect, decent accommodation 
 and proper attention ; and as it had been announced that she was 
 capable of carrying an almost fabulous number of passengers, and 
 affording them proper attention and accommodations ; and 
 
 " ' Whereas, we, the passengers on this excursion to Cape May, 
 have been grievously disappointed in every expectation; therefore, 
 
 " ' Eesolved, That we, the passengers to Cape May, have beeu 
 not only disappointed, but swindled ; that there was no water to 
 wash with, no towels to wipe with, and no berths provided, and 
 many ladies were obliged to sleep in the cabins ; that there was 
 not a glass of water to quench their thirst, and that the whole 
 arrangements were contemptible and disgraceful. 
 
 " ' Kesolved, also, That we will advise our friends who propose 
 
62 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 to go to Norfolk and Annapolis in tlie Great Eastern to stay at 
 home for fear of similar treatment. 
 
 " ' Eesolved, That these resolutions be published in tlie 
 "Herald," " Tribune" and "Times." 
 
 " ' Signed by J. C. Perry, Brooklyn; David Sandford, Amster- 
 dam ; H. S, Decker, Eeuben Burkhalter, New York : Alexander 
 Matheson, Ogsdenburgb, N. T. ; Abraham Khlos, Malone, 
 N. T. ; Sidney AY. Hopkins, J. J. Eichards, 'New York ; John 
 Brush, Pater'son, N. J. ; A. Eeckless, Eedbank, N. J. ; E. C. 
 Eussel, W. S. Baker, J. L. Jewett, New York ; John Howe, 
 M.D., and fifty others.' 
 
 "It is proper to add in this connection that neither of the 
 executive officers of the ship, from Captain Hall down, had anything 
 to do with this mismanagement complained of, except in giving 
 play to a laudable spirit to right, as far as lay in their power, a 
 most perceptible wrong. Messrs. Machin, Davies, Smythe, Wal- 
 lace, Wood, Gary and others, made every effort to accommodate 
 the dissatisfied and unprovided passengers, and most of the night 
 was spent by these gentlemen in going from place to place, routing 
 out intruders, and securing berths for those to whom they right- 
 fully belonged. Ladies were accommodated as far as possible ; 
 but many were forced to lie in the saloons and on the decks. 
 
 " The "directors, Messrs. Gooch and Yates, and Mr. Bold, gave 
 up their state-rooms, and slept themselves on the floor, manifesting 
 in every possible way a desire to render every one comfortable, 
 and correct the confusion which had resulted from the want of 
 proper experience. 
 
 " Had the eating arrangements been of the right character, and 
 Mr. C — done his duty eff'ectually, the excursionists would not have 
 said a word about the sleeping department ; but to be doubly in- 
 convenienced was more than human nature could bear without 
 reaction, and hence the meeting and resolutions. A man's 
 stomach sometimes requires the most careful handling. 
 
 " OFF CAPE MAT. 
 
 " The Great Eastern lies about six miles from the shore, and it 
 has been ascertained that we have run nearly fifty miles out of the 
 way — at least such is the report. The programme advertised is 
 to take the excursionists on board to the beach free of charge, 
 and bring them back, a steamer being provided for the purpose. 
 About half-past nine said steamer came alongside, and some 
 seventy of us, who pushed through the throng waiting at ^ the 
 gaugway for a similar opportunity, at the risk of neck and limb, 
 leaped on board. 
 
 "Most of these seventy went to Philadelphia from the Cape, pre- 
 
THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 63 
 
 ferring to go home by that route than to trust to the exigencies of 
 another night on the ship, and no doubt numbers of others will 
 do likewise. 
 
 " On shore the greatest excitement appears to prevail. 
 ' " The beach is thronged with spectators ; the two platforms 
 extending out into the channel along which the steamers run to 
 land passengers are also crowded ; while up the road, as far as the 
 eye can reach, the clouds of dust that rise in the air and sweep off 
 to the eastward, mark a steady increase. Vehicles of every kind 
 and condition incident to Jersey plantations, and born of Jersey 
 ingenuity, are tied along the fences, gathered in clusters, or are 
 moving along upon the beach. We hire one of these, with a 
 party, at a quarter each, and ride ' up town,' or rather to the 
 village — a distance of two miles. On the road the string of 
 carriages is like a procession. In the village we find everything 
 capable of holding humanity crowded to the eaves. Strangers 
 and country people have been pouring in for the last twenty-four 
 hours, and for ordinary mortals it is a matter of impossibility to 
 eat or sleep. 
 
 " By invitation of Messrs. Laird and Woolman, however, of the 
 Columbia House — the largest on Cape Island — we proceed there 
 to secure the comfort denied us elsewhere. Thanks to the kind- 
 ness of these gentlemen, we are afforded every facility for writing 
 — a very important feature to us by the way — while a single meal 
 brings out in striking contrast the wretched fare to which we have 
 been subjected. 
 
 " As the day advanced quite a large number of the New York 
 excursionists were added to our company, the principal object 
 being the enjoyment of a good dinner and a glorious bath in the 
 surf, which the sandy nature of the atmosphere and the heat of 
 the day made a decided luxury. 
 
 " Trom this point, about two miles from the landing, the great 
 ship was barely visible, her outlines showing dimly and indistinctly 
 on the edge of the horizon, and her masts bearing semblance, in 
 the distance, to a diminutive section of a thinly planted hedge 
 fence in winter. Opera glasses bring her in closer contact to 
 those who are looking from the windows of the hotel, and the same 
 curiosity exists, on a smaller scale, which marked her advent in 
 the bay of New York. 
 
 "the EXCTTESIONISTS EEOM cape MA.Y. 
 
 " Little occurred during the day on either ship or shore specially 
 worthy of notice. The boats J. L. Shrever, Jas. A. AVarner, 
 Delaware, Balloon, and a number of others whose names do not 
 occur to mind, came from Philadelphia, and other points on the 
 
64 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 bay, with passengers, and landed tliem upon the ship. The entire 
 number of visitors was between four and five thousand. The idea 
 had been extensively circulated among them, however, that the 
 Great Eastern would not arrive at Cape May, owing to an acci- 
 dent which, it was telegraphed on Monday evening, had occurred 
 on board while lying in the bay. This, several of the excursionists 
 said, had its eflect in raising a doubt, which resulted in the com- 
 paratively small number of visitors present. About one hundred 
 persons availed themselves of the opportunity to visit New York 
 in the big ship, the fare from Cape May being placed at five dollars. 
 Numerous tickets were sold among the crowd on the wharf by 
 the New Yorkers, to whom I have referred as being thoroughly 
 disgusted. These went ofi" at prices ranging from two to four 
 dollars, and one individual was so impregnated wdth the feeling, 
 that he gave his ticket away for a ten cent, piece with a hole in 
 it, which he says he shall put a string through to preserve as a 
 souvenir. 
 
 " Great difficulty was experienced in getting people on board the 
 Great Eastern from the steamers, because of the long ground 
 swell that prevailed. The side stairways were crushed almost 
 beyond redemption by the steamers alongside surgiog against 
 them, and the leaping and dodging of those who went on board, to 
 get on the gangway, was in some instances perilous in the extreme. 
 The best of nature animated the crowd, however, and barring a 
 little impatience on the part of each one to get ahead of his 
 neighbour, nothing threw a shadow over anybody's heart. 
 
 "a MAI7 OTEREOAED. 
 
 " On one of these occasions, just previous to the arrival of the 
 James A. Warner, a man was seen to plunge from the wheelhouse 
 in the water below. Eor a moment breath was suspended at the 
 startling incident, but on rushing to the side the individual was 
 discovered striking out for the wheel, in a cool and reckless manner, 
 and order was restored. It is not known whether the man fell or 
 jumped ; but, from his manner, it is supposed that he made a leap 
 merely for the purpose of lionising himself. 
 
 " THE EETIJEN. 
 
 " At half-past six the people on the Great Eastern had the satis- 
 faction of hearing the order given to get under weigh, and the 
 operation of raising the anchor at once became an interesting 
 relief to the monotony of the day. 
 
 "At eight o'clock we were well under way, bowling along at the 
 rate of thirteen knots an hour. Salutes were exchanged with the 
 steamship State of Georgia, bound outward ; and as both vessels 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 65 
 
 were travelling for a short time ia one direction the opportunity 
 was afforded of comparing the superior speed of the Great 
 Eastern, which ran away from her competitor with as much ease 
 as a man would outwalk a child. 
 
 " Supper was a little improved. The waiters have had a talking 
 to, and Mr. C — has hkewise received admonitions of a storm about 
 his ears, which have added an additional wrinkle to his corrugated 
 brow. An instance occurred during the day which shows the root 
 of the trouble, and how little the management of the ship have 
 been able to control the operations of this ' autocrat of the dinner 
 table.' 
 
 " Some of the directors desired to dine at a certain hour with a 
 small party of friends. The meal was accordingly ordered in the 
 usual way, Mr. C — being the caterer; but, notwithstanding, two 
 liours and a half elapsed before they succeeded in effecting their 
 object. Then it was only done through the perseverance of one 
 of the directors, who, with his own dignified hands, went and 
 helped himself. 
 
 " It will be seen, therefore, that these gentlemen are not entirely 
 to blame for all the deficiencies experienced, and that when they 
 cannot help themselves it is impossible for them to help others. 
 
 " AT NIGHT. 
 
 " The night was lovely. Dod worth's Band set the dancers in 
 motion, and for two or three hours the scene by moonliglit was as 
 delightful as one could wish. Many people, including several 
 ladies, were compelled to lay out on the deck again, and as the air 
 was cool, the breeze fresh, and plenty of cinders blew about, their 
 position was anything but comfortable. More quiet prevailed, 
 however, than last night. The jokers are fagged out, and are 
 sleeping as soundly as their more serious neighbours. 
 
 " Below, early in the evening, the saloons assumed more of the 
 form of a family circle. Parties were gathered in knots telling 
 stories or indulging in reminiscences of the trip, strolling up and 
 down the spacious rooms, examining the long row of a dozen or 
 more photographic groups of the officers of the ship presented to 
 the company by Gurney, or engaged in a quiet game of cards. 
 By eleven o'clock, excepting a party of singers astern on deck, all 
 was quiet ; and by twelve ' God Save the Queen ' and the ' Star 
 Spangled Banner' closed the performances of these midnight 
 minstrels. Most of the reporters were to-night accommodated 
 with berths, and are in better humour than they have been. 
 
 " Wednesday Mokning, Aug. 1. 
 " We are cutting the waters of the bay at the rate of tweke 
 
M THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 
 
 knots an hour. The chief engineer tells me that during the niglit 
 the ship made fifteen. I learn, also, from one of the officers, that 
 she came near running down a large schooner, and that it was only 
 by good luck, after the ship had stopped and backed water, that a 
 collision was prevented. 
 
 " A number of persons from Philadelphia, who came on board 
 at Cape May, were brought away by accident and turned up this 
 morning. They express themselves as highly delighted. 
 
 " Breakfast was but a repetition of the meals already described. 
 Mr. Minturn, jun., a son of one of the consignees, told me that he 
 had paid a dime for a glass of water and two shillings for his 
 mattress, so that no favouritism was complained of by him at 
 least. 
 
 " The day is so fair and beautiful, however, that there is little 
 disposition on the part of any one to grumble, and every one looks 
 back upon the trip to Cape May as one on -which they have 
 enjoyed a share of fun among the changeful vicissitudes of 
 the occasion sufficient to compensate them for all the misery 
 experienced. 
 
 " Several steamers have come out to m.eet us bound off with 
 excursionists, and, on a small scale, we have a repetition of the 
 scene of Monday. Salutes are exchanged with the revenue cutter 
 and one or two other craft, and at about ten o'clock anchor is 
 dropped off the foot of Christopher Street, where the Great 
 Eastern will rest until this afternoon at five o'clock, when she 
 starts on her trip to the South. 
 
 " THE OPEEATION OF THE ENGINES. 
 
 " The following is a statement received from Mr. McLennan, 
 chief engineer : — 
 
 " ' The engines, both screw and paddle, worked admirably. No 
 accident of any kind occurred to them. On the trip to Cape May 
 the paddle engines made 9873 revolutions — the indicator of the 
 screw not working. Thus the distance travelled was about 166i 
 miles. The knots averaged about twelve per hour, or of statute 
 miles between twelve and thirteen. On the return home the 
 paddle engines made 8849 revolutions — thus traveUing, as will be 
 seen, some twenty miles less than in going out.' 
 
 *' AN INCOREECT IMPEESSION. 
 
 " The statement has been generally made through the city that 
 the passengers on board the Great Eastern were supplied with 
 their fare by Mr. Stetson, of the Astor House. As such a suppo- 
 sition is calculated to injure the reputation and business of any 
 person with w^hom it is connected, after the occurrences recorded 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 67 
 
 on the above excursion, it is desirable that the public should know 
 that the gentleman above referred to had nothing whatever to do 
 with the matter." 
 
 Of course, in the above account, allowance must (as sailors say 
 of a new rope) be made for stretching. The mountain has been 
 in labour to bring forth a mouse. As far as the directors of the 
 great ship are concerned, all right-thinking persons will at once 
 acquit them of blame, for of course their province did not lie in 
 feeding a hungry mob ; but many of them were out for a two days' 
 spree, and ready to have a row about anything, or at anybody's 
 expense. As to our provider, some little mismanagement may 
 lie at his door ; but much of his trouble, and the cause of many 
 empty stomachs, lay with the excursionists themselves, for I saw 
 much food, on its way to a table at which sat a hungry group in 
 joyous anticipation of a good feed, torn by main force from the 
 hands of the waiters who were carrying it, such brutish conduct 
 of course making it impossible to give any degree of satisfaction 
 to the many, who thus suffered from the inexcusable conduct of the 
 few. As to the black waiters, they were a set of incorrigible black- 
 guards, and no doubt practised the extortions complained of to its 
 fullest extent, and many were without doubt insolent and inatten- 
 tive. I saw several myself in a state of intoxication when their 
 services were most required ; but every endeavour was made by 
 parties in authority to allay the rising bile of our friends : that we 
 did not succeed is partly owing to their desire to be all served at 
 once, and partly because, considering themselves as having cause 
 for grievance, they were determined not to be satisfied. But 
 enough has been said on this unpleasant subject. Doubtless, had 
 the Grreat Eastern been an American ship, we should have heard 
 less about such a paltry grievance as the discomfort of an excursion 
 party ; however, it taught the Americans one thing, that, in spite 
 of all their talk to the contrary, John Bull can build a steamer, 
 and sail her too. They are evidently dissatisfied with us for 
 beating them on their most tender point (ship-building); there- 
 fore, having been the innocent means of hurting their feelings, we 
 can forgive them for being riled. 
 
 I find it necessary to retrace my steps to say a few words about 
 this Cape May, that has thus suddenly achieved notoriety from 
 the visit of the Great Eastern. It is situated at the extreme 
 southern point of New Jersey, where the Delaware Bay joins the 
 sea ; it is famous as a fashionable summer resort, possessing good 
 bathing and hotel accommodation, and is distant from Philadelphia 
 some 100 miles. Some five or six thousand persons from that 
 
 V 2 
 
68 THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 
 
 city arrived by excursion steamers during our stay, to have a look 
 at John Bull's big boat, as they call her ; and what with them, 
 and our excursionists from New York, the scene of confusion the 
 decks of the Great Eastern presented was something terrible, and 
 right glad were we when, after an immensity of trouble, and a 
 perfect Babel of confusion and noise, we got rid of all strangers, 
 lifted once more our ponderous anchor from its bed, and steamed 
 away at the rate of seventeen miles per hour from Cape May. A 
 few Philadelphians availed themselves of the opportunity presented 
 them to take a trip to New York, at the rate of five dollars per 
 head. 
 
 I need scarcely say we were delighted when the ship was once 
 more anchored at New York (9.30 a.m. August 1), and the last 
 excursionist, cursing as he went, had disappeared over the side. 
 The quiet that now reigned on board was an enjoyment indeed to 
 us, who for two-and-a-half days had been in a perfect uproar; 
 we availed ourselves with right good will of the few hours given 
 us to clean the ship, and by evening we were once more clean and 
 decent. The heaps of broken furniture, and the damaged state of 
 our beautiful saloons, bore striking testimony to the gentlemanly 
 conduct of our late badly treated and much aggrieved fellow- 
 travellers. To-morrow we sail for Hampton E^oads, and thence to 
 Annapolis, a present of 1000 tons of coal being the inducement 
 to visit the latter place. 
 
 Thursday J August 2nd. — Fine weather ; the papers are full of 
 letters from our late excursionists, abusing in round terms ship, 
 directors, and officers, for nothing in particular but everything in 
 general. Not supplying them with a suificiency of ice-water 
 appears the principal grievance : truly something cooling would 
 have done them good ; however, it is to be hoped they will all cool 
 down in good time. They have now an opportunity of which they 
 have been long desirous, and right good use do they make of it, 
 to abuse the Great Eastern and all thereunto belonging. When 
 I speak of abuse, I allude to the numerous minor publications 
 of New York, which abound in most scurrilous articles ; use being 
 made of language that proves one thing, and one thing only, that 
 the writers are most consummate blackguards. AVe were re- 
 quested, as officers of the ship, to answer some of these articles, 
 which we did with our compliments to the would-be editors, " that 
 we, as the boy did when the ass kicked him, took it from whence 
 it came." Messrs. Phillips and Nash of the " New York Illustrated 
 News," De Eontaine of the "Herald," Osbon of the "World," 
 and others, have ever treated us with kindness and consideration, 
 and kept the papers with which they are connected free from such 
 malicious abuse as fills the dirty columns of such trash as "H *s 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 69 
 
 Weekly," the " C r," &c. AYeeds such as these should have 
 
 no place among the blooraing flowers of the New York press : 
 they should be plucked up and cast into the fire. 
 
 Lord Lyons, the British ambassador, honoured us with a visit 
 this morning, and was received by Captain Hall and the officers 
 of the ship. Captain Hall conducted his distinguished guest over 
 all parts of this magnificent vessel ; after a stay of about two hours 
 we landed his lordship in one of our boats, much pleased with his 
 visit. 5 p.m. — Fine weather : commenced shortening-in cable. We 
 have on board 105 passengers, at the low charge of six dollars for 
 the trip to Hampton Eoads, and eight dollars to Annapolis, ex- 
 clusive of provisions. At 6.10 p.m., the ship's head being the 
 right way, up anchor and steamed leisurely down the Bay. On 
 heaving our eight-ton anchor up to the bow, found that it was 
 badly broken in two places in the shank (near the stock): con- 
 demned it as unfit for further use. This run down the Bay 
 presents a striking contrast to the last ; the only vessel that noticed 
 us was the Cunard steamer, Asia, which ship fired a gun and 
 dipped her colours as we passed, the Grreat Eastern returning the 
 salute by lowering her ensign and firing four guns. Not one 
 steamer was there to accompany us ; no crowds of people lining 
 the shores to see us pass : in fact no more notice was taken of the 
 Great Eastern than of any ordinary vessel, — something quite novel 
 in the history of the big ship. Our last excursion has evidently 
 riled the Yankees, and they'll no more of us. Then, for a short 
 time, good-bye sweet city of fires and pistol practice, and away 
 to seek a welcome from our friends of the south. At 8.10 p.m. 
 crossed the bar, and steamed away gaily, with fine weather 
 and smooth sea. Till late at night all was jollity and hilarity ; 
 dancing was kept up with great spirit, a vocal and instrumental 
 concert in the saloon adding to the general good humour pre- 
 vailing. By midnight the decks were clear, and all but the watch 
 enjoying sweet repose. The engines as usual were in excellent 
 working order, and the Great Eastern was cleaving her way 
 through the water at a speed of seventeen miles an hour during the 
 whole night. 
 
 Friday, August 3rd, dawned on us with fine weather, light 
 winds, and smooth sea ; our passengers in high good humour with 
 the ship, the treatment and accommodation tiiey received, and 
 expressing in the warmest terms their admiration at the arrange- 
 ments and capabilities of this wondrous vessel. 3 p.m., observed 
 the land on the port bow, and at 6.15 p.m. anchored in Hampton 
 Eoads, having steamed from New York, a distance of 310 miles, 
 in 23 hours. On anchoring we fired four guns to announce our 
 arrival, after which the Fort honoured us with a salute of 11 guns, 
 
70 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 whicTi we immediately returned bj hoisting the American ensign 
 and saluting it with 13 guns. 
 
 Before arriving, the passengers held a meeting in the saloon 
 and drew up a prettily worded letter of thanks, which they pre- 
 sented to our worthy commander, expressing themselves highly 
 pleased with their comfortable passage and the courtesy that had 
 been extended to them by him and the officers of the ship : a 
 strange contrast this to the indignation meeting of our last trip. 
 Some three or four small steamers, and a dozen or two sailing craft, 
 freighted with the sight-loving public, were awaiting our arrival iu 
 the bay, and welcouied us with hearty cheers, and " God save the 
 Queen " from the bands, our musicians pkyiug " Hail Columbia," 
 &c. The point off which we are anchored bears the name of Old 
 Point Comfort. Nearly in the centre of the bay a large fort is in 
 course of construction, on an artificial island ; and on Point 
 Comfort, commanding the roads, is situated the largest fort in 
 America. There is also a naval hospital here. 
 
 The roads, in which the U. S. frigate, Brooklyn, and several 
 small vessels were anchored, affords no shelter from easterly 
 winds. There is but one hotel here, and but few other buildings. 
 Hampton is famous only as a resort for parties of pleasure, inva- 
 lids, and those seeking an invigorating air ; the fishing is also very 
 good. The James's river is navigable at a depth of twelve feet as 
 far as Richmond (the capital of Virginia), 140 miles from Hamp- 
 ton. The town of Norfolk is eight miles distant, standing on the 
 banks of the Elizabeth river, which is navigable for small steamers. 
 We had no sooner anchored than a deputation of gentlemen from 
 Norfolk came on board, inviting the captain and officers on shore 
 to partake of Virginian hospitality ; which invitation was declined 
 with thanks ; our stay here being too short to admit of its accept- 
 ance. 
 
 Saturday, 4tth. — Pine, but very warm. About 9 a.m. visitors by 
 steamers and boats of all kinds from E-ichmond and Norfolk were 
 fast arriving, and by noon some thousands of gaily-dressed people 
 of both sexes stood for the first time on the decks of the Great 
 Eastern. Among those privately admitted were the Secretary of 
 War, the Secretary of the Interior, and several Naval officers. On 
 leaving we honoured the first-named gentleman with a salute of 
 fourteen guns, which, as an exercise of common politeness, ought 
 to have been answered by the frigate Brooklyn ; but the Americans 
 had none of that " commodity " on stock, or rather to waste on a 
 " Britisher." The ship was all the afternoon pretty well filled 
 with visitors, but at 5 p.m. there was a sensible decrease in their 
 number. We had several slaves on board during the day, and they 
 appeared well clad, well fed, and clean. I did not enter into con- 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 71 
 
 versation Avith them for fear of giving offence to their owners ; for 
 the American slaveholders are well acquainted with our ideas on 
 the sla\'ery question, and therefore would rather we should leave 
 their " Niggers " alone. It is very amusing to hear the Americans 
 down South abusing their brothers of the North, and vice versa, 
 concerning the " Slavery question." The visitors numbered to-day 
 4020. 
 
 Two pilots for Annapolis came on board Sunday the ^th, 
 at 4 A.M. Commenced heaving in cable at 5 a.m. The steamers 
 came alongside with a few passengers for Annapolis at the low 
 rate of 3 dollars per head. 6 a.m., our eight tons of ii'on being 
 once more at the bow, steamed out of the bay ; at 7, stopped and 
 discharged the Hampton Eoads' pilot ; and at 8, we were off Cape 
 Henry, with fine weather and smooth sea, ship steaming gallantly 
 ahead at the rate of seventeen miles per hour. We are now in 
 the waters of the famous Chesapeake Bay, which extends as far as 
 Baltimore, about 190 miles. On our way we passed several ves- 
 sels, the crews of which lustily cheered us as we steamed by ; two 
 steamers came down from Baltimore crowded with people to meet 
 us, and, as the advertisement had it, to accompany us up to our 
 anchorage ; they had the presumption to try their speed with us, 
 but by the time we anchored a faint line of smoke on the horizon 
 marked their " whereabouts." We anchored at 5 p.m. in seven 
 fathoms water, six miles from Annapolis, in the state of Maryland. 
 The other side of the bay is about ten miles distance, so that we 
 are anchored nearly in the middle, there not being sufficient water 
 to allow us to approach nearer the town. Prom Cape Henry, 
 which we passed at 8 a.m. to our anchorage, is 155 miles, the whole 
 distance being steamed in nine hours, at over seventeen miles per 
 hour. The rivers Potomac, Susquehanna, and others, find their 
 outlets in this beautiful bay. Baltimore is distant about forty 
 miles, and approached from the head of the bay by the Patapsco 
 river. This day has been exceedingly warm, the night close and 
 sultry, with much forked lightning. 
 
 Monday, Gth. — Ship opened to visitors. The gift of coal, which 
 induced the authorities to send the ship here, being partly the 
 offering of a company owning what is called the Bay line of 
 steamers, the right of conveying passengers to the ship is granted 
 to their vessels, to the exclusion of others. These boats run 
 during the da}^, at intervals of about three hours, from six in 
 the morning till six in the evening. The visitors to-day numbered 
 only 2500 ; but we shall doubtless have an increase. The charge 
 for a return ticket from Baltimore is one dollar for the steamer 
 and half-a-dollar for admittance on board the Great Eastern. 
 The railway between Baltimore and Annapolis is also running 
 
72 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 several excursion trains daily, a steamer being employed by them 
 to take visitors from the trains to the ship. This railway also 
 runs to Washington, the political capital of the United States, 
 and we shall no doubt have many visitors from there and other 
 towns on the road. The weather during the day has been most 
 oppressively warm, scarcely a breath of air stirring. Six vessels 
 containing coals are alongside, and busily discharging, but as the 
 big ship takes in her coal at large side ports near the water, it 
 causes but little annoyance. 
 
 On the ^th, the weather was still fine, but the heat intense. 
 The coaling is going on but slowly, as the men do not appear in 
 working humour, and not particularly pleased at working in the 
 heat of a tropical sun. The steamers from Baltimore and Anna- 
 polis came alongside to-day, well filled with visitors of all classes, 
 — and I may well say " all classes," for there were ladies and 
 gentlemen, pickpockets and rowdy boys, and blacklegs, each party 
 well represented. The latter mentioned blackguards were the 
 cause of much annoyance and trouble to us during the whole time 
 of our stay; assaults were constantly going on. Only to-day a 
 mob gathered round the bar, making a great noise, and being 
 very properly refused drink, the ringleader knocked down one of 
 the officers of the civil department, and the whole then pitched 
 into the waiters in the saloon. This being a free country, these 
 blackguards of course made use of their boots and teeth. How- 
 ever, the tables were soon turned ; for ^ome of our men, hearing 
 what was going on, fought their way to the field of battle, and 
 Eritish blood being spilt, all that remained in the bodies of the 
 pugilists was in a state of ferment, and the consequence was 
 that an indiscriminate fight took place, and these scum of the 
 American Backwoods received so many striking proofs of the 
 necessity of a retreat that they were forced — some of them Bowie 
 knife in hand — to make what Jack calls a "stern-board;" i.e., 
 clear out with their faces to the enemy, or rather what could be 
 seen of their faces, for I feel satisfied that for many days some of 
 them were quite safe from arrest by the police on any indi- 
 vidual charge, so complete was their disguise. One of the 
 blackguards, more ferocious than the rest, we put, hands and legs, 
 in irons, much to the disgust of himself and friends. The ring- 
 leader of the mob, after this melee, grossly insulted an American 
 lady in the presence of her husband, who at the time said nothing, 
 but landed in the steamer with his wife's insulter, and when on 
 the wharf took a revolver out of his pocket and shot him dead. 
 This happened in the presence of several of our men, and much 
 to their horror ; but these summary acts of vengeance are common 
 in this country. 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 73 
 
 At 6 P.M., Messrs. Davies and Wood, two of my brother officers, 
 and myself, kindly accompanied and franked by our good friend 
 Kasb, of the "New York Illustrated News," and taking our band 
 with us, left for Annapolis by the steamer, proceeding from thence 
 to Baltimore by a train crowded to excess. An instance of the 
 free-aud-easj style of these people was shown by many of them 
 climbing to the top of the engine-tender, some sitting on the 
 wood with their legs haoging over the sides, at the imminent risk 
 of being thrown down from the jolting of the carriage and killed. 
 I, in my innocence, ventured a remark as to the danger of such a 
 proceeding, receiving as an answer from the conductor, " I guess 
 if they get chawed up 'taint no fault of ours." Owing to the 
 crowded state of the train, we did not arrive at Baltimore till 
 1(9 P.M. On reaching the house of our kind friend Mr. Wm. E. 
 Bartlett, we mustered our band outside, and made the streets 
 echo with " The Star-Spangled Banner." As may be expected, 
 we were not long in gaining admission, and found a snug bachelor 
 party assembled to meet us, the salute of honour being imitated 
 in a most agreeable manner to us thirsty souls by the popping of 
 champagne corks. A good supper was on the table, consisting 
 principally of crabs, for which this place is famous : there were 
 crabs devilled (the meat being taken out of the shell to undergo 
 this operation, and afterwards returned), soft crabs fried in cream, 
 ditto fried in their natural state, and many others too numerous 
 to mention. These crabs are considered a delicacy ; they are 
 eaten shells and all, and are of about the same consistency as a 
 firm jelly. Being very hungry, we made sad havoc among the 
 shell-fish, our appetites assisted by the reckless manner in which 
 our friend Bartlett fired away with his champagne battery. After 
 supper, and a dessert, consisting of the most luscious peaches, &c. 
 the band treated us to some excellent music. Towards midnight we 
 were joined by Marshal Kain (the head of the Baltimore police), and 
 one or two other gentlemen. The evening passed as pleasantly as the 
 kindness of our worthy host and his friends could make it, and at 
 2 A.M., after winding up like true Britons by singing " God Save 
 the Queen " (the toast, " Her Majesty," having been proposed in 
 a neat and complimentary speech by the Marshal, and responded 
 to in true English style with nine times nine and a hearty " God 
 bless her!"), we sallied forth, accompanied by all hands, to the 
 Maltby House Hotel, and at about 3 managed to get to bed, 
 merely to be, as far as I was concerned, the victim of some 
 hundreds of bloodthirsty mosquitos. At 8, rose and dressed, 
 having borne my inflictions with anything but quiet resignation, 
 breakfasted, and paid a visit to the terminus of the Baltimore and 
 Ohio Kaiiway, the finest buildiug of the sort I have yet seen iu 
 
74i THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 this country. We were kindly received by Mr. Woodside and 
 other officials, and by them conducted to the dome, from whence, 
 at an elevation of 150 feet, we enjoyed a fine panoramic view of 
 the city. One great peculiarity that strikes the eye is, the long 
 streets of houses, all of red brick ; in fact there appears to be 
 hardly any other material used for house-building. The public 
 buildings generally are stone or marble. Baltimore, iu the state 
 of Maryland, is on-e of the four great eastern cities with a popu- 
 lation of 250,000. 
 
 The AVashington monument is a very fine piece of work- 
 manship, the chief amongst its kind in the United States ; its 
 base is 50 feet square and 20 feet high, supporting a Doric shaft 
 177 feet in height, which is surmounted by a colossal statue of 
 "Washington 16 feet high. It is built of brick, cased with white « 
 marble, and cost 40,000Z. Battle Monument, also of white 
 marble, 52 feet in height, was erected to the memory of those 
 who fell defending the city in September, 1814. Many of the 
 public buildings are large and elegant structures, particularly the 
 Exchange, which has colonnades of six Ionic columns on its east 
 and west sides, the shafts of which are single blocks of fine 
 Italian marble of admirable workmanship. The churches, bene- 
 volent and literary institutions, &c., are generally well built, and 
 many of them imposing structures. The Catholic cathedral 
 boasts of the largest organ in the United States, having 6000 
 pipes and 36 stops ; it is ornamented with two excellent paintings 
 — viz., the " Descent from the Cross," and " St. Louis burying 
 his Officers and Soldiers before Tunis." This town is famous for 
 the swift class of vessels here built, and known as " Baltimore 
 clippers." Having expressed a desire to inspect the celebrated 
 cigar steamer, v\'e were favoured by the originator and builder, 
 Mr. AVinan, with a letter to Captain Yaughan, requesting him 
 to afford us every information concerning this extraordinary 
 vessel. After a drive of half an hour, m'c alighted at Mr. AV.'s 
 private yard, and stepped on board. We were kindly received 
 and shown through the vessel by the captain and Mr. AVinan, jun. 
 Mr. AVinan, sen., was formerly an engineer by profession, and is 
 possessed of immense wealth, the perfection of his novel idea 
 being amusement for him. The term "submarine" would also 
 well apply to this vessel, for she is constructed to go either 
 through the water or on its surface ; the idea being, that 
 instead of, like an ordinary vessel, mounting over a sea, she 
 will pierce her way through it. She is formed like a cigar, 
 being hollow, and pointed at each end, for the purpose of 
 offering as small an amount of surface as possible to the 
 assaults of the waves. She measures about 300 tons, is 235 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 75 
 
 feet long, works to 350 horse-power, and carries 200 tons of 
 iuel ; her diameter is 16 feet in the centre ; the deck, from 
 the form of the vessel, is confined to the hreadth of a few feet 
 and about half her length, with a substantial hand-rail to save 
 persons from slipping overboard. She is entirely iron, and is 
 propelled by a wheel placed in her centre, set with twelve pro- 
 peller blades, which traverse entirely round the outside ; and to 
 allow the connection of this wheel with the engines, the vessel is 
 divided in two, having sufficient space for the machinery, but so 
 strongly secured together as to make this particular part of the 
 ship the strongest. The wheel is so covered in as to prevent any 
 water going below. She has a rudder at each end, 40 feet from 
 the extremes, in the shape of a flat square shovel, projecting 
 entirely clear of her bottom, and steering her with the smallest 
 movement. There is an anchor at each end, formed like a 
 sugar-loaf, large end down, intended to hold by its weight alone; 
 each is hove up by a winch into a recess formed in the ship's 
 bottom to receive it, and made of corresponding size and shape, 
 so that when the anchors are up they are so fitted in the bottom 
 that no part projects. Near the centre a small iron tower rises 
 to the height of 15 feet, and is provided with strong glass, resem- 
 bling ships' scuttles, through which the look-out can see a-head 
 when the whole of the hull is immersed. I dare say some day we 
 may hear of her making a successful trip across the Atlantic. 
 Mr. Winan informed me that, to test her qualities, he anchored 
 oflf Cape Henry till a gale of wind set in, and then steamed out 
 against it, making 14 miles per hour, with scarcely any motion. 
 To clean the bottom of this sea snake, it is only necessary to pass 
 two chains round her, taking them to winches on shore, and thus 
 to roll her over as you might a barrel. 
 
 During the afternoon we paid a visit to the immense establish- 
 ment of Messrs- Gail and Ax, the largest tobacco factory in the 
 States. By the courtesy of the proprietors, we were enabled to 
 witness the whole process of tobacco, cigar, and snuff" manu- 
 facture : that of cigars is carried on by hand ; that of cutting 
 tobacco and pounding snuflP, by steam machinery. All the men 
 employed in this extensive establish aient (and 1 believe some of the 
 women) were smoking at their work ; and it struck me that from 
 such inveterate smokers (constantly inhaling not only the smoke 
 of tobacco, but tobacco itself, in the shape of dust) that a valuable 
 opinion might be obtained of the efl^ect of smoking on the human 
 system. All the employes have permission to smoke as much as 
 they please on the premises, but not to carry tobacco or cigars 
 away. Some of them avail themselves of this, and smoke without 
 ceasing the whole day through. One of these men, whose first 
 
76 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 waking thought in the morning was for his pipe, and who fre- 
 quently fiuished the day by going to sleep with it in his mouth, 
 died some few niontlis back at the age of eighty-six, after being many 
 years in the establishment. The general opinion of the pro- 
 prietors and others able to give one is, that the use of tobacco is 
 not injurious. We enjoyed another fine view of the city from the 
 top of this splendid edifice. A violent thunder-storm, with heavy 
 raiii and vivid lightning, broke over the town, lasting for half an 
 hour, cooling the heated atmosphere, and rendering the evening 
 delightfully pleasant. 
 
 At 6.30 P.M. started for the Great Eastern in one of the 
 steamers returning for excursionists left on board. I think I 
 never in the East or West Indies found the heat greater or more 
 unbearable than it has been the last day or two. 
 
 Arrived on board soon after 8 p.m., and found 1700 excursionists 
 awaiting the steamer's arrival; and such a squeezing and fighting 
 to get on board, such yelling and screeching; it really was 
 wonderful how this immense throng transferred itself from one 
 vessel to the other in safety. All the ship's officers were in attend- 
 ance, and most indefatigable in their exertions to render service, 
 especially to the ladies ; they being treated with but little 
 civility by an American crowd. After one or two cases of fainting, 
 a few torn coats, scratched faces, &c., the majority got on board 
 the small steamer in safety ; some few of tlie more timid preferred 
 to remain on board the " big ship " all night. These were pro- 
 vided with sleeping accommodation, and made as comfortable as 
 circumstances permitted. President Buchanan has notified his 
 intention to visit the ship to-morrow. 
 
 Coaling ship goes on night and day, with not very favourable 
 results, the coal vessels being sometimes obliged to sheer off to 
 an anchor to avoid swamping alongside. 
 
 Thursday, 9tL — Light fog and cloudy in the early morning ; 
 clearing away as the sun gained power, the latter making its 
 appearance with every indication of a piping-hot day, which it 
 turned out to be. Visitors commenced flocking on board in 
 great numbers from 8 a.m., and the different parts of the ship 
 were soon filled with a well-dressed multitude, amongst whom was 
 a goodly sprinkle of ladies, many of them fine-looking women, 
 and a few positively handsome, all gathered together to welcome 
 the President. At 10.30 a.m. the presidential party were 
 observed approaching (in the small revenue steamer, Anacosta), 
 and were soon alongside, welcomed by twenty-one guns from 
 the Great Eastern. Our commander and his ofiicers were in 
 attendance at the gangway to receive the distinguished visitors, 
 and amidst the hearty cheers of the assembled thousands, the 
 
THE GREAT EASTERNS LOG. 77 
 
 bands playing "Yankee Doodle," President Buchanan stepped on 
 board the Great Eastern. He was accompanied by his niece, Miss 
 Harriett Lane, some few members of the Senate, &c., some naval 
 officers, and a large party of ladies and gentlemen. We (the 
 officers) had all the honour of a separate introduction to the 
 President, each being received with a cordial grasp of the hand, 
 and a hearty " Glad to see you, Sir." 
 
 Mr. Buchanan is a venerable-looking gentleman, perfectly 
 white headed, and over six feet in height, wearing the ordinary 
 American dress and straw-hat, without the slightest distinction. 
 Miss Lane, the niece of the President, is about the middle height, 
 slightly inclined to embonpoint, very lady-like in her manner, 
 about twenty-eight years of age, and decidedly good looking : for 
 the benefit of our lady readers we will say, she was dressed in 
 (what I considered) decided good taste— plain, neat, and good 
 (my knowledge of millinery is far too limited to allow me to 
 attempt details). After a minute inspection of the ship, the 
 distinguished party were entertained by Captain Hall and the 
 directors at a sumptuous dejeuner, served in the ladies' saloon. 
 After a stay of two hours, Mr. Buchanan and suite left the ship, 
 again shaking hands with the commander and his officers, expres- 
 sing in warm terms the pleasure he had received from his visit. 
 
 Before leaving, Mr. Buchanan was presented with several little 
 souvenirs of the great ship, with which he appeared much pleased. 
 After the steamer had left our sides, we again saluted with 
 21 guns, which were returned by the Anacosta. It was rather 
 strange for an Englishman to hear (as we did to-day), the head of a 
 great nation accosted by the crowd in this style : " Well, Mr. 
 President, how d'ye do ? glad to see you ; guess you're looking 
 spry," &c. 
 
 The visitors began to thin about 4 p.m., and by 8.30 p.m., the 
 last had cleared out. Some of our gentlemen (?) visitors take a 
 delight in passing insulting remarks. One to-day, accosted me with 
 " Mr. Officer, 1 guess this ship 's a great humbug." " That 's the 
 opinion of every fool that 's seen her," replied I. The Yankee 
 moved off. 
 
 Friday, lOtli. — Eine weather, ship full of visitors from 9 a.m. ; 
 coaling going on, still badly. At 3 p.m. got up steam in the 
 auxiliary engines, and hove in forty fathoms of cable. Towards 
 evening a bit of a swell rising, all the coal-lighters broke adrift, 
 thus finishing our coaling in a most unceremonious manner. We 
 should, if possible, have taken another 1600 tons : but not being 
 able to do so here, it will be necessary to coal afresh in New 
 York. By 7.30 p.m. all visitors out of the ship, awning furled, 
 and all ready for sea. Daring the night it blew very hard from 
 
78 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 the IST.W., with heavy raio, compelling us to again give the ship 
 the cable we had previously hove in. 
 
 Saturday, 11th. — Fresh N.W. wind, with dull cloudy weather 
 and rain. At 4 a.m. commenced (with steam and hand power), 
 heaving in our enormous bower cable, the anchor not being 
 up and secured, owing to the strength of the wind, till 6.50 a.m., 
 at w^hich time, under charge of two pilots, we made a clear 
 start for New York, with thirty-four passengers at twenty 
 dollars, including provisions. After a speedy run down the 
 beautiful Bay of the Chesapeake, at 3.50 p.m. stopped off Cape 
 Henry to discharge our Annapolis pilots, having made an average 
 speed during the run of IQ^ miles per hour. One steamer 
 came out from Hampton E-oads full of people to see us, giving us 
 a " good-bye." At 4.5 started a-head full speed for New York. 
 The night was dull and cloudy, with a strong head-wind and 
 occasional showers. 
 
 Sunday, 12th. — Light winds and fine ; the land in sight on port 
 beam ; passing a number of coasting vessels. Mustered the ship's 
 company at 11.30 a.m., and at 11.50 stopped abreast Sandy 
 Hook' light-ship, after averaging a speed of sixteen, miles per hour 
 since leaving Cape Henry. Have to wait i,ill three p.m. for high- 
 water to cross the bar. Advantage was taken of this opportunity 
 to get the ship's head on with known objects on shore to correct 
 compasses. Three p.m. set on easy, and at 3.45 crossed the bar 
 once more in safety. Steaming up the bay, but ^ew boats came 
 out to meet us ; as before, our appearance caused no excitement 
 among the New Yorkers. ^Returned salutes from two " Cunard's" 
 steamers as we passed, and at 5.45 p.m. anchored near the old 
 spot. The next day set in with a gale of wind from the S.E. and 
 rain; at eight a.m. commenced taking in coal from barges, it 
 being hoisted in by " horse " power. The cost of coal put on board 
 is 25s. per ton. Ship opened to visitors, but owing to the incle- 
 mency of the weather very few came on board ; between four and 
 five p.m. the wind chopped round to the N.W., accompanied by 
 heavy rain for several hours. 
 
 Tuesday, 14ith. — Still blowing heavily from the north; owing 
 to the unfavourable state of the weather had but few visitors. 
 The following extract is from the " Herald" of this date : — 
 
 "The Geeat EASTEEi*r Steamee. 
 
 "the mammoth at her moorings — CURIOSITY OF THE PEOPLE— REFLECTIONS ON 
 HER PROSPECTS — TIME OP HER DEPARTURE LAST CHANCE FOR VISITORS, ETC. 
 
 " The Great Eastern steamship has once more returned to our 
 harbour, and, as we previously predicted, the interest of the public 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 79 
 
 has died out in the attractions she can supply. We have always 
 stood up for the superiority of the Great Eastern over ordinary 
 vessels in several respects. As a transport vessel she has no 
 equal ; as a steamboat of the first class she stands unparalleled ; 
 and as an experiment of the future results of ocean steam naviga- 
 tion there can be no doubt but that the ocean monster is aheaf of 
 everything else. 
 
 " The Great Eastern has had a favourable time in this country. 
 She has cleared thousands of dollars since her arrival, and if she 
 should remain here for a few months she will clear many thousands 
 more. This is the great theory of the ' big ship.' But, to speak 
 the truth, we must say that at the present moment little or no 
 interest is exhibited in her. The excursion to Cape May, and the 
 frightful provision made for the comfort of the passengers on that 
 occasion, were enough to settle the prospects of the best ship of 
 the world. We are not here making a note of the history of the 
 vessel. iS'obody has ever paid more attention to her appearance 
 and her career since her arrival in this country than the ' Herald ' 
 has done. But we must say that the managers do not know how 
 to ' keep a hotel.' If they did, the Cape May excursion would 
 have been a great success, instead of a lamentable failure. 
 
 " As our readers are aware, the Great Eastern is once more in 
 New York, and at this moment is lying off Hammond street, in 
 the stream. Those who wish to see her had better avail them- 
 selves of their only opportunity between to-day and to-morrow. 
 In three or four days she leaves for England, and hereafter many 
 of our people will regret that they did not tread the deck of the 
 greatest maritime structure that ever floated on the seas. The 
 officers of the Great Eastern have ever conducted themselves as 
 seamen and gentlemen, and the results of the unfortunate trip to 
 Cape May should not be taken as a circumstance to injure their 
 reputation. They have, as far as they are concerned, fulfilled the 
 duty which then devolved upon them. While they remain here 
 we hope that they will continue to be as accommodating as they 
 have hitherto been ; and if close attention and urbanity can be a 
 recommendation to any one, then the officers of the Great Eastern 
 are entitled to the consideration of all intelligent Americans. 
 
 " We need not describe the scenes of yesterday, as there was 
 little topourtray. The wharves were crovvded, and, as the ship lay 
 oft' in the stream she was visited by over a thousand persons. 
 People look on this as the last view of the Great Eastern. No 
 one expects to see her here again. We all koow that there is not 
 sufficient trade between New York and any European port to 
 justify the employment of such an immense vessel in the carrying 
 trade. It is, therefore, plain that those who do not now visit her 
 
80 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 will not hereafter have any opportunity of seeing her, except they 
 cross the ocean to do so. We may mention that the Great 
 Eastern will be open for exhibition for two days longer; and 
 certainly there is scarcely a person who has not yet visited her 
 that ought not to take this last opportunity of doing so. We 
 wish the good ship well, as we always did. Forgetting all the 
 contretemps of the management, and attributing them to inex- 
 perience, we sincerely hope, as do all Americans, that the good 
 ship may once more find a safe haven in the land whence she 
 sailed." 
 
 E-ain continued up to midmight. Crew all day employed pre- 
 paring ship for her homeward voyage. The weather cleared up 
 early, and by four a.m. we had a fine clear morning ; coaling is 
 still going on night and day. Being our last day in New York, 
 the ship has been better filled with visitors, although nothing like 
 a crowd. Captain Guildford, the commander of one of Cunard's 
 small steamers, joined to-day as our Halifax Pilot. Fine weather 
 with a fresh northern wind. Number of visitors 6710. 
 
 Thursday, IQth. — This morning a writ was served against the 
 ship for the infringement of an American patent, but upon inspec- 
 tion it was found " no patent at all," consequently the writ was 
 quashed. No visitors were allowed this day. From this morning's 
 '' New York Herald " :— 
 
 " The Great Easteei^-. 
 
 '* PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE— FRESH INCREASE OF VISITORS TEMPORARY RESUS- 
 CITATION OF BUSINESS ON THE WHARVES — THE LAST DAY OF HER VISIT — FOR 
 ENGLAND, HO ! ETC. 
 
 " There was almost a return of the old excitement yesterday on 
 board the great mammoth ship, in consequence of the crowds that 
 hastened to visit her ere she took her final departure from our 
 shores. The steamers began to ply from the foot of Hammond 
 street at ten o'clock to the vessel's station in the stream, and only 
 ceased plying to and fro when there was no longer time left for 
 even a cursory glance below to any whose curiosity was only to 
 be appeased by treading her decks, if even but for a turn or two. 
 The steamers kept up a constant communication between the 
 vessel and shore, and on every trip they were crowded with visitors, 
 who, having hitherto failed to visit the naval architectural wonder 
 of the age, were at last determined that they would be able to 
 answer affirmatively the inevitable question, ' Have you seen the 
 Great Eastern ?' 
 
 " Notwithstanding the great numbers who went on board 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 81 
 
 during the day, and that at times there must have been at least a 
 couple of thousand people brought together, there were but few 
 to be encountered in any one place, so completely were they lost 
 in the mazes of the between-decks, or engulphed in the cavernous 
 depths below. Thus the freights of people brought over by every 
 steamer seemed to add but little to the numbers that were already 
 engaged in admiring the vast proportions and the extensive accom- 
 modations of the ship. As this was the last occasion that is ever 
 likely to offer for an inspection of the mammoth of the deep, it 
 was observable that there were more than a usual number of 
 visitors to the engine departments, and from the manner in which 
 the machinery and its operations were referred to and discussed, 
 and the close scrutiny they underwent, it was clear that there was 
 a considerable number of scientific and mechanical visitors present. 
 There was nothing transpiring on board to indicate in the slightest 
 degree that the great ship was spending her last day amongst us — 
 that on the morrow those now inert and silent masses of machinery 
 would be put into noisy motion, and that through their agency 
 the Great Eastern, which has been so long one of the sensations 
 of New York life, would be propelled once more to her island 
 home across the Atlantic. 
 
 " It was supposed in the earlier days of the project, while yet 
 the Leviathan was upon her stocks, and when, from many yards 
 issued forth the incessant and deafening noise which proclaimed 
 that crank and wheel and hammer aud many a foundry fire was at 
 work in speeding on the ' triumph of the age,' that Yankee 
 vanity would be awakened, and that Yankee ingenuity would be 
 taxed to produce a rival to the creation of his cousin John Bull, 
 But Jonathan was content to let the work go on, wisely foreseeing 
 that it would end in producing an ocean Frankenstein, which 
 would be to its projectors more trouble than profit. The history 
 of the Great Eastern has proved the wisdom of our capitalists 
 and ship builders ; and even now, when, at a fearful cost, human 
 skill has acquired control over the great floating mass, arises the 
 question, in the words of their own great writer, ' What will they 
 do with it ?' This is a question which comes more properly under 
 the consideration of the Directors of the Great Ship Company, 
 than that of a reporter, and with them let it rest. 
 
 " Yesterday the wharf at the foot of Hammond Street presented 
 some evidences of the life and bustle which prevailed in all that 
 neighbourhood during the palmier days of the ' wonder.' Such 
 as the scene was yesterday, however, it would but convey a laiut 
 idea of the scenes presented and enacted ere the trip to Cape May 
 was entered on. i'rom the moment that the ' Herald ' announced 
 all the facts connected with that ill-managed undertaking, there 
 
82 THE GEEAT EASTERNS LOG. 
 
 was an immediate strike of tents and marquees, restaurants and 
 confectionary saloons, segar-stands and fruit-stands, and a complete 
 stampede of all those enterprising caterers to the public who paid 
 anything for the privilege of doing business on the wharf. They 
 all fled incontinently, knowing that it was in a great measure all 
 up with the speculation. But yesterday, under the genial influence 
 of a beautiful day succeeding a very miserable wintry one, and 
 from the fact that this was the last day, and that a crowd of 
 visitors would be sure to be there, the wharf was once more alive 
 with itinerant dealers of all kinds, from the lozenge boy, with his 
 shrill cry of ' two cents a paper,' to that great ' medicine man,' 
 John Kemble, the original oil man, who collected an audience by 
 the dulcet tones of an old banjo and his own voice, dreadfully 
 cracked from his prose efforts, as he said himself. All was life 
 and animation on the wharf; the boats went off loaded at every 
 trip, and as they returned again fresh crowds awaited transport. 
 The Sixth, Eighth and jSTinth avenue cars were filled with tlie 
 crowds hurrying to the ship, and at last, when evening came, and the 
 boat had taken off the last loungers, it was computed that between 
 six and seven thousand persons had been on board during the day." 
 
 The number of persons who have visited the ship during the whole 
 time of her stay in New York, is 164,754; realising 83,296 dollars, 
 or about £17,000. The greatest number on any one day, was on the 
 27th July, when there were registered, 16,817 persons; the smallest 
 number on the 14th August, the register showing only, 1627. 
 About 2 P.M. our passengers came on board (numbering forty- 
 six for Halifax, and fifty-six for England). Pinished coaling at 
 3 P.M., having received 1600 tons. We are one and all exceed- 
 ingly rejoiced at leaving New York, for we have but few pleasant 
 recollections to embitter our parting, but " unpleasant " ones 
 crowd thick and fast on our memories. To the few kind friends, 
 I leave behind, (who have manfully stood by officers and ship, 
 through good and evil repute,) I beg most cordially to render the 
 heartfelt thanks of myself and shipmates, for their many acts of 
 kindness to us, the officers of the much-abused G-reat Eastern ; 
 but I take it to be the fashion of the people here, to abuse that 
 they cannot imitate. At 4.80 p.m. anchor up, steamed easil}^ 
 down the bay, commencing 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 83 
 
 THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 
 
 " The anchor's up, our sails unfurl' d, 
 We're bound to plough the watery world ; 
 Huzza ! we're Homeward Bound." 
 
 The only demonstration made in our favour afloat was by one 
 or two maii-steamers firing a gun or two, which we answered. On 
 shore thousands of spectators lined the wharves, to witness the 
 departure of the "largest ship in the world," three or four ferry 
 boats crossing the bay managed to raise a cheer ; and one little 
 yacht worked away most assiduously with a little pop-gun, till we 
 were beyond hearing ; we gave him four guns in return. Deter- 
 mined to behave with due politeness to the last, we eased steam 
 off the lower battery, and saluted the American flag, with twenty- 
 one guns, the " dipping " of the flag at the fort being the only 
 return vouchsafed us, not one gun could they spare ; however, we 
 have the less to thank them for. At 6.25 p.m. crossed the bar, 
 for the last time, (Cunard's steamer Australasian being close 
 behind us, bound for Liverpool direct) ; stopped engines, and dis- 
 charged Mr. Murphy, the pilot, (the band playing " Should auld 
 acquaintance be forgot ") ; at 6.40 set on full speed for Halifax. 
 Night fine, with light airs and hazy ; at 9.30 passed Fire Island 
 light. 
 
 Friday, Vlth August. — Light northerly winds and fine weather. 
 9.30 A.M. observed the light-ship on the Nantucket shoal. At 
 7 P.M. stopped for a few minutes to sound in forty-eight fathoms ; 
 dark sandy bottom. The ship's speed is about fifteen knots, or 
 seventeen miles per hour. 
 
 Saturday, ISth. — Light variable airs and fine weather ; passed 
 several small coasting and fishing vessels. 10 a.m. observed the 
 land of Nova Scotia, on port-bow. p.m.— Eunning along the 
 land ; 2.30 observed Sambro Island right a-head ; 3.40 rounded 
 Sambro Island and entered Halifax Bay. The land about here 
 is very rocky and barren in appearance, but improves as we 
 proceed toward the town. When within seven miles, several 
 small steamers, crowded with people, came to meet us, welcoming 
 us with hearty cheers. As we drew near the town, crowds of people 
 could be seen swarming on the wharves, vessels, and house-tops ; 
 colours were flying from ships, houses, and flag-staft's, and amidst 
 the ringing of bells, firing of guns, and the deafening cheers of 
 the assembled populace, the Grreat Eastern glided along toward 
 her anchorage (passing within twelve feet of the vessels moored 
 at the wharves), as completely under command as a ferry-boat. 
 At 4.40 P.M. let go the anchor in fifteen fathoms, two royal salutes 
 
84 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 being fired on shore in honour of our arrivaL "We Lave accomplished 
 the passage from New York, against a strong adverse current, in 
 forty-six hours, being five-and-a-half less than the quickest on 
 record. No sooner was our anchor at the bottom than Halifax 
 was afloat, and the Great Eastern presented the appearance of a 
 huge whale surrounded by a shoal of sprats ; every boat and 
 every a, ology for one was brought into requisition, and " Ho ! 
 for the big ship," was the cry. After receiving '"' pratique," 
 visiters were admitted on board at the charge of two shillings 
 and sixpence. This is a very picturesque town, built on the slope of 
 a hill, which rises in its centre, crowned with fortifications com- 
 manding the harbour, in which is a small island also well fortified. 
 The houses are apparently well built, and streets regular, with a 
 goodly sprinkle of churches. 
 
 The engineer's crew were all this night employed in unreefing 
 the " floats" in the paddle Avheels (before leaving Southampton 
 these " floats" were reefed, or drawn up some five feet from the 
 outer rings of the wheels, to lessen their immersion, and thus allow 
 the wheels to revolve faster; they are now being "unreefed" or 
 replaced in their original position). 
 
 Sunday, August IQtli. — Weathercloudy with rain. 8 a.m. com- 
 menced shortening in cable (the engineer's work being completed), 
 and at 9 our huge anchor was once more at the " cathead," and 
 the Great Eastern steaming slowly from the harbour. An immense 
 concourse of people was assembled on the wharves, &c., to witness 
 our departure for *' Old England" ; dipped our colours, and fired 
 four guns as a good-bye. 10 a.m:. Stopped at the mouth of 
 the bay and discharged pilot, and at 10.10 a.m. started on our 
 voyage for Milford Haven, passing a large number of small fish- 
 ing schooners. Eive passengers joined us at Halifax (among 
 them the wizard Jacobs and his brother the Goblin Sprightly,) 
 making a total of seventy-two. Light increasing breeze from 
 the S.E. with dull cloudy weather, and very chilly, with occasional 
 showers, continuing the same up to midnight. 
 
 Monday, 20th. — Same weather. At noon we were in lat. 45° 57' N., 
 long. 55° 45' W. ; distance run 318 knots = 371 statute miles. 
 Steering as we now are, nearly a due east course, we make nearly 
 half an hour's difierence of time each day, thus giving us but 23i 
 hours for our day, and subtracting from the ship's run about seven 
 miles. P.M. Moderate head winds with tolerably smooth water ; 
 middle part, thick fog. Engines going half speed for six hours, 
 stopping four times for soundings ofl" Cape Race. The weather 
 towards midnight cleared up, with a light wind from the south- 
 ward. 
 
 Tuesday, 21sf. — Dul], cloudy weather, with light southerly wind. 
 
THE GEEAT EASTERN'S LOG. 85 
 
 At noon we were in lat. 48° 00' IST., long. 49° 00' W. ; distance run 
 306 knots = 356 statute miles. Mr. Jacobs, the " Wizard, Improv- 
 visatore and Ventriloquist,'' (assisted by the " Goblin Sprightly,") 
 has announced his intention to give a grand performance to-morrow 
 evening at 8 p.m. in the first " after cargo space," where his 
 " Theatre" is in course of erection. He intends (as he savs) to 
 '• do the thing in_ style," as if on shore. Bills, in flaming characters, 
 are posted in various parts of the ship, announcing that his arrival 
 will take place in time for a performance as per hand-bill. 
 
 GEEAT EASTEEN TEMPLE OF MAGIC. 
 
 NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN, 
 Latitude 50° SO' N. Londtude 38° 30' W. 
 
 WEDNESDAY EVENING, AUGUST 22, 1860. 
 
 Under the immediate and distinguished Patronage of Capt. John Vine Hall, 
 
 the Officers, and Passengers, of 
 
 THE GREAT EASTERN STEAM SHIP. 
 
 The entire proceeds of the Entertainment heing for the Benefit of 
 THE DREADNOUGHT HOSPITAL SHIP. 
 
 PEOEESSOE JACOBS, 
 
 The world-reno-wned Wizard, Ventriloquist, and Improvisatore, with his 
 
 inimitable 
 
 GOBLIN SPPJGHTLY, 
 
 Having arrived at the above Latitude and Longitude have the honour to 
 
 announce, for the first time in these regions, one of their 
 
 EXTPtAORDINARY PERFORMANCES ! 
 
 The Wonders they introduce are unequalled in ancient or modern necromancy. 
 
 THE SALOON, 
 
 In which this Grand Entertainment is to take place, -will be fitted up as a 
 
 TEMPLE OF ENCHANTMENT. 
 
 The Decorations in the style of Louis Quatorze. The Apparatus is of massive 
 
 Silver, realising the idea of 
 
 ALADDIN'S PALACE. 
 
 By kind permission, the Band of the Great Eastern will attend. 
 
 Commences at Eight o'clock. Admission, 4s. Back Seats, 2s. Crew, Is. 
 Tickets to be obtained at the Purser's Office. No Money taken at the Doors. 
 
 Lithographs of his Temple of Magic are also to be seen in 
 the most conspicuous places. The proceeds of this " Entertain- 
 ment" (to Mr. Jacob's credit, be it said,) are to be handed to 
 Captain Hall, and by him to the Dreadnought Hospital Ship for 
 
86 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 Seamen of all Nations. As " all the Nobility and G-entiy" in 
 this " Great Eastern" city have promised him " their support and 
 patronage," a "full house" is anticipated. This day has been dull 
 and gloomy throughout, with but little wind, our noble ship making 
 good progress through the water. Several whales came up this 
 evening for a peep at us, as we rushed along on our way, no doubt 
 wondering what huge monster it was thus cleaving its way through 
 their domains. During the whole night the weather was very 
 thick, with light, variable winds. Those mechanical contrivances of 
 modern invention, very useful by the way, but most offensive to 
 ears polite, ycleped steam whistles, were kept going with but little 
 intermission, and many were the curses, both loud and deep, 
 bestowed on them by would-be sleepers. 
 
 Wednesday the '2.2nd. — About 4 a.m. the weather cleared np a 
 little, and by noon a light breeze sprung up from the N. W., and our 
 forward square sails were set. The ship's position is in lat. 50° 10' 
 jST., long. 41° 44' W., distance run 320 knots = 363 statute miles. 
 
 The bulwarks and quarter-deck bear placards in large coloured 
 type announcing the arrival of Professor Jacobs, and his 
 intended performance this evening. This afternoon we passed an 
 empty barrel floating on the water. On being asked by one of the 
 passengers what it was, I politely informed him that it was a 
 buoy attached to the new Atlantic Telegraph Cable ! An 
 inoffensive sun-fish, enjoying his afternoon's siesta near the surface 
 of the water, was capsized in a most unceremonious manner by 
 collision with the bow of the Great Eastern : if this unfortunate 
 denizen of the deep had any bones in its anatomical formation, 
 doubtless they were all broken. 
 
 I do not pretend to any knowledge of the future movements 
 of the great ship, but her present ones may be termed lively ; 
 the whole day she has been rolling about twenty-five degrees 
 each way, proving, beyond a doubt, that she can roll much 
 the same as an ordinary vessel, in the event of encountering a 
 heavy sea. There is just now but little wind, and no sea to 
 ispeak of, although it is what ive call a cross one ; however, 
 it is pretty clearly proved that the Great Eastern (great though 
 she be) cannot bull}' the waves of the Atlantic into subjection ; 
 she will have to do homage to them, the same as other vessels, by 
 bowing and rolling, though perhaps in a less abject manner. 
 The theatre erected for this evening's performance, presents a 
 really creditable appearance. The space chosen is of some extent, 
 as may be understood from the fact that it is capable of stowing 
 over 1300 tons of cargo, its height about fourteen feet. It has 
 been nicely carpeted, and the ship's sides hidden by flags 
 arranged with a considerable display of artistic skill; some 
 
THE GREAT EASTEEN's LOG. 87 
 
 jiandsome spare cliandeliers are suspended from the deck, in 
 company with a goodly array of brightly -polished globe lamps, 
 and a row of some fifty foot-lights, added to w^hich some forty wax 
 candles are burning on the stage, causing quite an illumination. 
 In fitting up their " Temple of Magic," the Brothers Jacobs have 
 gone to considerable trouble, in fact, as much so as if about to 
 perform at one of the first London houses. His valuable mas- 
 sive silver service of " urns," " vases," "boxes," &c., his numerous 
 and ingenious pieces of mechanism, " Liliput house," " the 
 windmill," "blooming orange-tree," "inexhaustible bottle," &c., 
 were all in their places ; these, with the handsome stage drapery, 
 &c., giving it the appearance {vide handbill) of a "Temple of 
 Enchantment." Grreat credit is due to the Brothers Jacobs for 
 the kind feeling which has prompted them at the expense of time 
 and labour, fifty well-packed boxes having to be unpacked, and 
 of course restored, to give this entertainment for the benefit of 
 a public charity. The following was to be seen in various parts 
 of the ship prior to the performance. 
 
 ** NOTICE! 
 " Omnibuses -u-ill run, every half- liour, from 'Fore' Street, via the 'Bridges,' by 
 ■wbicli Passengers can be conveyed to Professor Jacobs' wonderful ' Temple 
 of Magic' 
 
 "Fare, Qd. 
 "By Order of the Honble, 
 
 " 'Great Eastern' Omnibus Directors." 
 
 The performance commenced punctually at the time specified, 
 the " house " beiug crowded in every part. Mr. Jacobs expe- 
 rienced great difficulty, from the rolling of the vessel, in keeping 
 his apparatus in their places, many of the things fetching way 
 and receiving considerable damage ; but in spite of all these 
 drawbacks, the Wizard for two hours delighted his audience ; 
 Groblin Sprightly keeping them in a constant state of merri- 
 ment. The professor did not fail to give us a specimen of his 
 wonderful powers as an improvvisatore. One of the subjects given 
 him was the Grreat Eastern, and much amusement was afi'orded 
 by the witty manner in which he handled it. The performance 
 concluded at ten p.m., and the gratified audience departed on foot 
 (no cabs being on the stand) for their homes in difl'erent parts of 
 this vast city. The night was dark and cloudy, with rain. After 
 midnight set the lower main-topsail to a strong S.AY. wind, with 
 heavy rain. 
 
 Thursday, 2Srd. — Same weather, with a high sea running. 
 8 A.M. set the upper main-topsail, three trysails, and staysail ; the 
 Great Eastern, now, for the first time, having all her square sails set. 
 
88 THE GREAT EASTERN S LOG. 
 
 Noon. — Presli S.W. winds, raining heavily, and very thick. 
 Lat. 51° 00' N., long. 32° 45' W. Distance run, 340 knots = 396 
 statute miles. Of the numerous changes of wind and weather 
 we are subjected to at sea, none, for discomfort, equals the weather 
 we now have. I dare say many of my readers are familiar with 
 the sight of a comical looking covering for the head, made of 
 painted canvas (usually worn by coal-heavers), and generally 
 ycleped a Sou'-Wester ; so called because wet weather and S.W. 
 winds are inseparable companions. The rain that generally 
 accompanies this wind is not a sharp shower for an hour or so, 
 and then giving you time to "blow," but a steady indefatigable 
 fall, speedily finding out a sore place in a waterproof, and 
 causing the unfortunate recipient of its bounty to feel, unlike the 
 celebrated Mark Tapley, anything but " jolly under his diffi- 
 culties." In addition to the discomfort, owing to the thick 
 weather, which is another of the accompanying evils, there is the 
 danger of collision, the worst, and by us, most dreaded evil of all. 
 This wind has also brought a long, rolling sea with it; and the 
 Great Eastern, after her yesterday's practice, has so far im- 
 proved as to be now doing a most decided roll. Unsecured 
 articles of furniture (that have stood in one position since leaving 
 England) suddenly discover they have been wrongly placed, and 
 the alacrity with which they place themselves anew, at some 
 considerable distance, is rather amusing. Two of the saloon 
 chandeliers (no doubt dissatisfied with their elevated position) 
 sought the deck in unceremonious haste, and great was the fall 
 thereof! Now and then, during a heavier roll than usual, a 
 crash was heard, signalling the destruction of a few articles of 
 crockery-ware, or a score or so of " dead marines " (empty bottles). 
 Sundry other noises were at times heard proceeding from the 
 bowels of the great ship, even the bulkheads (like those of 
 ordinary vessels) condescended to creak ; all tending to prove that 
 the Great Eastern can, and doubtless will, roll' when occasion 
 off'ers, although due allowance must be made for the present 
 empty state of her inside. A vocal and instrumental concert 
 was held in the saloon this evening, and passed off" with great 
 eclat. Up to midnight the weather continued much the same, the 
 wind merely veering a point or two each way, the rain con- 
 tinuing nearly without intermissic-n the whole time, afibrding a 
 capital opportunity of testing the efficacy of the cold water cure. 
 
 Fndai/,24:th.— Wind. hauled a-head,' and at 8 a.m. all square 
 sails were furled. Still raining at intervals. At 10 15 a.m., 
 owing to a slight derangement in some trivial portion of the 
 machinery, the screw had to be stopped for near four hours. 
 A screw steamer was seen on the starboard bow, but too far to 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 89 
 
 tlie southward to make out what she was. At noon our position 
 was in lat. 50° 58' N., long. 24° 25' W. Distance run, 320 
 knots = 373 statute miles. Soon after two p.m. our screw was 
 again set going: by this unavoidable delay we have lost about 
 twenty-five miles. Eive trysails and a staysail are set to a mode- 
 rate breeze from the northward. Weather still dull and cloudy, 
 with occasional showers, and a cross sea running. A notice in 
 the saloon informed all musically inclined persons, that another 
 grand vocal and instrumental performance would be there 
 lield at eight p.m., at which time the seats were well filled, and 
 the harmony was continued till eleven p.m., with the usual 
 announcement of " out lights" as Qj Jljiale. (I Avould mention 
 that Mr. Jacobs entertained the company by exhibiting his 
 wonderful powers as a ventriloquist.) The night was fine, with 
 but little wind. 
 
 Saturday, 25th. — At 3.30 a.m. observed the screw-steamer 
 Australasian on the port-bow (this is the steamer that I have 
 mentioned as leaving New York at the same time as ourselves, 
 bound home direct) ; so that taking into consideration our stay of 
 eighteen hours in Halifax, and the detour we were compelled 
 to make to reach that port, we have beaten her thus far twenty- 
 four hours. Fine weather, with a light ]N".W. wind ; square sails 
 set forward, and others set and taken in as required. 
 
 Noon. — At dusk the Australasian's smoke was just visible on 
 the port quarter ; passed a barque beating to the wind, showing 
 1st distinguishing pendant, 183. 
 
 A lottery was formed of thirty-six members at IO5. each, to be 
 won by the party holding the ticket with the time of the pilot's 
 coming on board, marked on it. 
 
 The music and singing this evening was really good, and duly 
 appreciated by the public. 
 
 " The moon on the ocean was dimm'd by a ripple 
 Affording a chequered light ; 
 The gay jolly tars passed the word for the tipple 
 And the toast, for 'twas 'Saturday night.' " 
 
 A private "Soiree musicale " was held in one of the officers' 
 cabins this evening. AYith us 'tis 
 
 '• Always the practice, a cause of delight, 
 Drinking 'sweethearts and wives' on a Saturday night." 
 
 A convivial party was assembled ; the song and joke went round, 
 not forgetting the toast, 
 
 " The wind that blows, 
 The ship that goes, 
 And the lass that loves a sailor." 
 
90 THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 
 
 A pleasant evening was spent by those who were now, perhaps, 
 meeting for the last time, and were therefore determined it should 
 he a merry one. 
 
 The night was fine, with light winds, fore-topsails and foresail 
 set, although, for all their use, they might be furled. A fresh 
 gale is required to be of any service to the Great Eastern when 
 *' running," 
 
 Sunday 2Qth, at 3.30 a.m. (daybrealO- The lofty hills, and 
 rock-bound coast of Ireland, became clearly visible, at a distance 
 of some twelve miles. 
 
 This day we ran 346 knots = 414 statute miles. At 4 p.m. we 
 were abreast the " Smalls," and at 4.55 stopped off the entrance 
 to Milford Haven, and received on board a pilot. This virtually 
 concludes our voyage, as from this up to our anchorage Ave several 
 times stopped to receive on board Custom House Officials, Govern- 
 ment Pilot, &c. The voyage from Halifax has been performed in 
 seven days one hour (mean time). 
 
 Numlier of miles run by observation from New York to Milford 
 
 Haven, exclusive of distance in and out of port to Pilot Stations 2980 
 
 Ditto ditto from Halifax 2-357 
 
 Time between New York and Milford 
 
 Haven, less 4h. 56m. difference of 
 
 time 2121i. 54m., or 13 '91 knots per hour. 
 
 Time between Halifax and Milford 
 
 Haven, less Sh. 15m. difference of 
 
 time 168h. 45m., or 13-95 knots per hour. 
 
 About 16 statute miles per hour. 
 
 Steaming up to our anchorage we passed through the Channel 
 Fleet, composed of eleven noble line of battle ships, " Old 
 England's Wooden Walls ;" from their trucks down to the decks, 
 yards, masts, and bulwarks were crowded with "jolly tars." Each 
 ship as we passed (her band playing " God save the Queen," or 
 " Eule Britannia,") dipped the ensign and gave us three hearty 
 cheers; such cheers as only British tars can give, thrilling to 
 our hearts, and causing us to feel proud indeed of our country. 
 
 The welcome accorded to us by the British Eleet was indeed a 
 hearty and a flattering one, one that 'twill be long 'ere we forget. 
 
 At 6.30 P.M. off Pembroke Dockyard. 
 
 " ' Stand clear the cable,' was the cry ; 
 ' The anchor's gone, we safely ride.' " 
 
 The Great Eastern has thus satisfactorily completed her first 
 transatlantic voyage. Of her performances during that voyage, 
 those who have read the foregoing pages may judge for themselves, 
 whether good or bad; they will doubtless coincide with their 
 
THE GREAT EASTERN'S LOG. 91 
 
 humble servant in considering tliem as, in every way, most satis- 
 factory, and that 
 
 •' She is a vessel stout and brave, 
 As ever stemm'd the ocean wave." 
 
 Hflvinf^ (speaking in a literary sense) brought the " Great 
 Eastern" in safety to her Haven, my task is finished, and 
 wishing her a long and successful maritime career employed 
 in the commerce and in the service of "Old England" (no 
 longer as a "travelling show"), I bid adieu to the noblest 
 structure ever raised by the hands of Englishmen. 
 
 CONCLUSIOiS". 
 
 Deaij Eeadee, — Should fate, pleasure, or business, be the 
 cause of your leaving your own fireside to visit some distant 
 land, cast your eye over the columns of the newspapers, and if 
 the " Great Eastern " be there advertised to sail for that port 
 whither you are bound, take my kindly-meant advice, engage a. 
 passage in that noble vessel, and rest assured a comfortable 
 and (as far as human foresight can provide against accidents) a 
 safe voyage awaits you. Should you do so, we may, perchance, meet 
 in p7'oprid perso?td. If the foregoing pages have been the means 
 of whiling away an hour or two that hung heavily on your hand, 
 I am well repaid for my trouble, and bid you a kindly adieu. 
 
 THE "AUTHOE." 
 
 THE END. 
 
 BRADBURY AND EVA^S, PRINTERS, WHITEFRrARS. 
 
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