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MAKING A 
 ROSE GARDEN 
 
THE 
 
 HOUSE & GARDEN 
 
 MAKING 
 
 BOOKS 
 
 IT is the intention of the pubhshers to raake 
 this series of little volumes, of which MaJcing 
 a Rose Garden is one, a complete library of 
 authoritative and well illustrated handbooks 
 dealing with the activities of the home-maker 
 and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and dia- 
 grams will, in each respective book, aim to 
 make perfectly clear the possibility of having, 
 and the means of having, some of the more 
 important features of a modern country or sub- 
 urban home: Among the titles already issued or 
 planned for early publication are the following : 
 Making a Lawn; Making a Tennis Court; 
 Making a Garden Bloom This Tear; Making a 
 Fireplace; Making Roads and Paths; Making 
 a Poultry Rouse; Making a Hotbed and Cold- 
 frame; Making Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and 
 Seats; Making a Rock Garden; Making a Water 
 Garden; Making a Perennial Border; Making 
 a Shrubbery Group; Making a Naturalized Bulb 
 Garden; with others to be announced later, 
 
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MAKING A 
 ROSE GARDEN 
 
 By HENRY H. SAYLOR 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 
 1912 
 
COPTRIGHT, 1912, BY 
 
 McBRIDE, NAST & CO. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 Published February, 1912 
 
 £C!.A305915 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Introduction 
 
 PAGB 
 1 
 
 Classification 
 
 • o 
 
 Location and Soil 
 
 Preparation and Planting 
 
 Fertilizing . 
 
 Pruning 
 
 Pests 
 
 Propagation 
 
 • • • 
 
 • e 
 
 • • 
 
 . 11 
 
 . 20 
 
 . 25 
 
 . 30 
 
 33 
 
 . 40 
 
 Winter Protection . 
 
 • • 
 
 44 
 
 Lists of Dependable Roses . . 46 
 
 Glossary of Terms . . . .51 
 
THE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 A Rose Garden with the Ideal 
 Arrangement of Grass Paths 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 FACING 
 PAGE 
 
 Ulrich Brunner, a Red Hybrid Per- 
 petual Rose 4 
 
 Marechal Neil, a Tender Climbing 
 
 Tea Rose 8 
 
 KiLLARNEY, OnE OF THE BeST HyBRID 
 
 Teas . . . . . .12 
 
 A Garden for Roses Only . . 14 
 
 A Dormant Tea Rose as It Comes 
 
 from the Grower . . .22 
 
 A Stock of Manetti Grafted with 
 
 AN Improved Variety . . .42 
 
 A "Standard" Rose . . . .44 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 I WELL remember the caution given me 
 by a noted horticulturist when, in the 
 sudden awakening to the joys of garden- 
 ing, I was about to attempt the cultivation 
 of nearly everything named in the largest 
 seed and plant catalogue I could find : 
 
 " Leave the rose alone ; it is not worth 
 fighting for." 
 
 And leave it alone I did, until one day I 
 was browsing about an old book shop and 
 came upon a well-thumbed copy of good 
 old Dean Hole's " A Book About Roses." 
 Let me tell you that there is something 
 radically wrong with the person who can 
 read that book and then go on plodding 
 along his dreary, roseless way. 
 
 But why, if there is such a book as that 
 to be had, do I presume to put forth what 
 can at best be but a feeble ray in its 
 predecessor's blaze of inspiration? Merely 
 because Dean Hole's book, and a later vol- 
 ume by the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar 
 that is almost as inspiring, with perhaps 
 
2 Introduction 
 
 even more helpful guidance, are both writ- 
 ten for the English rosarian and for a 
 cool, moist climate that necessitates a 
 somewhat different method of procedure 
 throughout as compared with that which 
 would bring success in growing roses here 
 in America. Then too, there is to my 
 mind something encouraging in a very 
 small book, a book that will merely attempt 
 to lay the foundations for the superstruc- 
 ture that, after all, only experience can 
 bring. Perhaps there are those who, like 
 myself, are content with the bare essen- 
 tials of classification, content to be told the 
 basic rudiments of cultivation, and who are 
 in haste to be done with all of these homely 
 means to an end, that they may begin 
 growing roses. 
 
Making a Rose Garden 
 
 CLASSIFICATION 
 
 WHEN one considers the fact that 
 the majority of botanists recognize 
 over a hundred species of the genus Rosa^ 
 and that a French botanist lists and de- 
 scribes 4,266 species from Europe and 
 western Asia alone, it will readily be un- 
 derstood that this chapter can give but a 
 rough, working knowledge of groups and 
 species. . 
 
 Fortunately the amateur rosarian in the 
 United States is concerned with very few 
 of the species, largely for the reason that 
 the efforts of our rosegrowers have natu- 
 rally been confined to a few important 
 groups where general merit is most 
 strongly marked. Indeed, for the purposes 
 of a modest rose garden, one would not 
 go far wrong if he limited his choice of 
 varieties to the Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Per- 
 petuals and a few of the Teas, with sev- 
 
 3 
 
4 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 eral of the wichuraiana and rugosa hybrids 
 for trellis and hedge. 
 
 The name Hybrid Perpetual is borne by 
 an enormous group of roses which have 
 been derived from various species, crossed 
 and recrossed until the parentage is in 
 most cases hopelessly involved. The 
 " Perpetual " half of the name signifies 
 that the rose continues to bloom more 
 or less frequently throughout the sum- 
 mer. As a matter of fact, it is usually 
 less. 
 
 Teas or Tea-scented China roses form a 
 distinct group that is readily recognized 
 by the characteristic scent of the flowers 
 and by the smoothness of its leaves. Teas 
 are, in a way, the aristocrats of the rose 
 garden. They bloom with no great blare 
 of trumpets in June, like the Perpetuals, 
 but they keep steadily at their work of 
 producing exquisite blooms, one or two at 
 a time, throughout the summer. Their 
 one serious handicap is a lack of hardi- 
 ness, which they possess only in a slight 
 and very variable degree ; and they must 
 be very carefully protected in the north to 
 bring them safely through the winter, 
 liven though I were forced tp buy new 
 
Uirich Brunner, a red Hybrid Perpetual that has 
 achieved an excellent reputation. The H. P. type 
 is characterized by hardiness and great freedom 
 of bloom in June. Thereafter throughout the 
 summer the burden of display must be borne by 
 the Teas and Hybrid Teas 
 
Classification 5 
 
 plants each spring, however, I would not 
 have a rose garden without Teas. 
 
 Hybrid Teas, as the name signifies, are 
 successful crosses between the Tea and 
 roses in the Hybrid Perpetual group. This 
 class combines the persistence of the Tea 
 with the sturdier growth of the Perpetu- 
 als, and from it we shall probably get the 
 great bulk of our garden roses for some 
 years to come. 
 
 The Moss Rose, of which you will surely 
 want a representative in your garden, be- 
 longs in the Provence group, as will be seen 
 in the tabular classification at the end of 
 this chapter. Who does not know its 
 beautiful buds in their setting of mossy 
 stems .f^ This rose, like many a one that 
 has not gotten such a grip on our affec- 
 tions, has refused steadfastly to mix its 
 blood with another species, and has re- 
 tained its good points and its bad ones for 
 over three hundred years. It is quite 
 hardy but is rather susceptible to mildew. 
 
 There are other roses, too, outside the 
 larger and best-known groups — roses that, 
 because of some superlative merit in one 
 direction or because of past associations, 
 lay a strong hand on our heart-strings and 
 
6 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 plead for an obscure corner of the new rose 
 garden: the bristling Scotch Rose, the 
 fragrant Damasks, the sweetbrier or eglan- 
 tine with its inimitable fragrant foliage, 
 the Penzance Brier Hybrids, the White 
 Banksian of southern gardens with its odor 
 of violets, the Persian Yellow of our grand- 
 mothers' gardens, and the hundred-petaled 
 Cabbage Rose, parent of the Moss. 
 
 Climbing roses are to be found in many 
 of the groups — Wichuraiana, Ayrshire, 
 Polyantha, Musk, Noisette and as sports in 
 the Hybrid Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid 
 Tea groups. 
 
 It is in another class, however, that we 
 may look for the ideal American roses of 
 the future. Not many years ago, came 
 to us three natives of Japan, Rosa wichu- 
 raiana^ Rosa multiflora and Rosa rugosa. 
 From the first two has been developed by 
 our American hybridizers the race of Ram- 
 blers, while from the tliird has come such 
 sturdy children as Conrad F. Meyer, per- 
 haps the ideal hedge rose for our northern 
 climate. In the estimation of Professor 
 Charles S. Sargent, the dean of American 
 horticulture, it is along the line of rugosa 
 hybrids that we shall succeed in filling our 
 
Classification 7 
 
 gardens with large, beautiful, hardy and 
 continuously flowering roses. 
 
 The climate of the South and California 
 seems ideally suited to the Teas, producing 
 a wealth of exquisite bloom that fills those 
 of us that live in more trying surroundings 
 with envy. In the South also they have 
 the Cherokee Rose (Rosa laevigata or 
 sinica)^ flourishing along roadsides and in 
 great masses on the prairies, its long, arch- 
 ing stems bearing a wealth of pure white, 
 single flowers, four or five inches across, 
 in a setting of brilliant, evergreen foliage. 
 It is one of our American hybridizers' 
 hopes and aims to cross, this with a hardy 
 rose to gain sufficient stamina for the 
 North. 
 
 And out in Oregon, the Hybrid Per- 
 petuals and Hybrid Teas grow to a size 
 and beauty that is unsurpassed the world 
 over. Practically every kind of rose can 
 be grown in the Puget Sound district, and 
 the amateurs of that locality seem to have 
 as little trouble with rose pests as we do 
 here with our hardy decorative shrubs. 
 
 To sum up the whole matter of classi- 
 fication and to show the relative positions 
 of many groups that, for lack of space, 
 
8 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 have not even been mentioned above, the 
 following tabular key is given — a .slightly 
 modified form of the classification given in 
 the Cyclopedia of American Horticulture : 
 /. Summer-flowering Roses, blooming once 
 only 
 
 A. Large-flowered (double). 
 
 1. Grow^th branching or pen- 
 
 dulous ; leaf wrinkled. 
 Provence 
 Moss 
 Pompon 
 Sulphurea 
 
 2. Growth firm and robust ; leaf 
 
 downy. 
 
 Damask and French 
 Hybrid French 
 Hybrid Provence 
 Hybrid Bourbon 
 Hybrid China 
 
 3. Growth free; leaf whitish 
 
 above ; spineless. 
 Alba 
 
 B. Small-flowered (single and double). 
 
 1. Growth climbing; flowers pro- 
 
 duced singly. 
 Ayrshire 
 
 2. Growth short- jointed, gener- 
 
Marechal Neil, a tender climbing Tea rose, 
 dark golden-yellow in color, requires winter 
 protection in the North. The Tea is the 
 aristocrat of the rose garden, unapproached 
 for delicate fragrance, refined form of the 
 individual blooms, and continued flowering 
 throughout the summer 
 
Classification 9 
 
 ally, except in Alpine. 
 Briei's 
 Austrian 
 Scotch 
 Sweet 
 Penzance 
 Prairie 
 Alpine 
 3, Growth climbing ; flowers in 
 clusters. 
 Multifiora 
 Polyantha 
 4'. Growth free; foliage per- 
 sistent (more or less shiny). 
 Evergreen 
 Sempervirens 
 Wichuraiana 
 Cherokee 
 Banksian 
 5. Growth free ; foliage wrinkled. 
 Pompon 
 II. Summer- and Autumn-fiowering Roses, 
 blooming more or less continuously 
 A. Large-flowered. 
 
 1. Foliage very rough. 
 Hybrid Perpetual 
 Hybrid Tea 
 Moss 
 
lo Making, a Rose Garden 
 
 2. Foliage rough. 
 Bourbon 
 
 Bourbon Perpetual 
 S. Foliage smooth. 
 China 
 Tea 
 
 Lawrenceana (Fairy) 
 B. Smaller-flowered. 
 
 1. Foliage deciduous 
 
 a. Habit climbing. 
 Musk 
 
 Noisette 
 Ayrshii'e 
 Polijantha 
 
 Wichuraiana Hybrids 
 
 b. Habit dwarf, bushy. 
 Perpetual Briers 
 
 Rugosa 
 
 Lucida 
 
 Microphylla 
 
 Berberidifolia 
 
 Scotch 
 
 2. Foliage more or less per- 
 
 sistent. 
 Evergreen 
 
 Macartney 
 
 Wichuraiana 
 
LOCATION AND SOIL 
 
 IF there is any secret in connection with 
 the growing of beautiful roses in 
 abundance, it hes in the strict observance 
 of a few fundamental principles through 
 which the rose plants, or bushes if you 
 will, are given a location and soil which 
 they will find congenial and nourishing. 
 If for one moment you may have thought 
 that success depends upon some particular 
 insecticide for the annihilation of the aphis, 
 or some hard-and-fast rule for pruning, or 
 the use of- a fertilizer having magical at- 
 tributes, dismiss that thought from your 
 mind, once and for all time. Insecticides, 
 judicious pruning and suitable manuring 
 have each an important part in the cam- 
 paign, but transcending all of these is the 
 first choice of location and the prepara- 
 tion of the garden in which the roses are 
 to grow. Warfare against the rose's ene- 
 mies can be but a one-sided, hopeless strug- 
 gle if we are working against nature all 
 the way through. Far easier and more 
 
 II 
 
12 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 certain in effect will be our first efTorts to 
 establish the rose plants themselves so 
 firmly in healthful, congenial surroundings 
 that they, rather than we, will bear the 
 brunt of the battle against the insect pests. 
 
 In China I am told that a custom once 
 prevailed whereby the emperor paid his 
 physician a good salary as long as the 
 ruler kept his good health. If he fell ill 
 the physician's pay stopped ; if he died, 
 off came the practitioner's head. 
 
 Be generous in the amount of thought 
 and care you give in providing health, 
 food and strength for your rose plants, 
 and as a result you will have to give very 
 little thought and care to curing disease 
 and killing off the rose-bugs and slugs. 
 
 In the first place let us take up the mat- 
 ter of situation. Unfortunately most of 
 us will have little leeway in this, for the 
 average suburban place is not one that will 
 offer hill and valley, windswept open space 
 and warm shelter. The ideal location is 
 to be found neither on a hilltop where the 
 winter winds would play havoc with our 
 winter protection, nor in a low hollow 
 where frosts are always more frequent. A 
 gentle slope to the south, well above nearby 
 
Killarney, the comparatively new Hybrid Tea 
 rose, having a beautiful shell-pirk color, has 
 achieved a wide popularity. The Hybrid Tea 
 combines in a measure the hardiness of the 
 Hybrid Perpetual with the continuous flower- 
 ing habit of the Tea 
 
Location and Soil 13 
 
 low spots into which the cold air will drain, 
 sheltered in some way from the north, 
 would be all that we could ask. In the 
 matter of this shelter, however, we meet a 
 further difficulty, for our rose garden must 
 be kept well away from any trees. It is a 
 matter of common knowledge that the root 
 system of a tree will, as a rule, extend as 
 far out from the base as the tree rises about 
 the ground. Obviously it would be merely 
 a waste of time and effort to locate the rose 
 garden where the hungry roots of trees 
 would rob it of the food supply furnished 
 the roses. In general, therefore, we shall 
 have to use the wall of a house or a gar- 
 den wall for our needed protection, though 
 in case of necessity we could sink a ma- 
 sonry wall or an iron plate as a barrier be- 
 tween the upper rich soil of our rose beds 
 and the roots of the sheltering trees. 
 
 Sun, it is perhaps unnecessary to say, is 
 essential, though it will be found that if 
 the beds are in shade for the first part of 
 the morning one will have greater oppor- 
 tunity of enjoying the roses at their best 
 — before the dew has been drunk from their 
 petals by the thirsty midsummer rays. 
 
 The matter of the size and design of the 
 
14 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 rose bed is of comparatively little im- 
 portance ; what really is vital, however, is 
 that the roses be permitted to have the 
 beds to themselves — absolutely. But re- 
 cently I read a magazine article purport- 
 ing to be good advice for the rose-grow- 
 ing amateur. Therein appeared words of 
 regret that the rose must needs have such 
 barcj, gaunt stalks, and suggesting as a 
 remedy the growing of some vine about 
 the base of the bush — I am not sure, indeed, 
 that the honeysuckle was not specifically 
 named for the place. I can well imagine 
 that the result might be a very beautiful 
 honeysuckle, but we should look there for 
 the rose in vain. 
 
 The Queen of Flowers will brook no lib- 
 erties of this kind. She insists upon 
 reigning alone in her glory, and anyone 
 who dares presume to introduce even a 
 low-growing, shallow-rooted ground cover 
 with the intention of making the rose bed 
 seem less bare, will never see his roses at 
 their best. Personally I have never felt 
 that a rose garden need be in the least un- 
 attractive. There is one type of beauty 
 that might be represented by a carpet of 
 creeping phlox ; there is another that be- 
 
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Location and Soil 15 
 
 longs to the rose garden, bearing its single 
 blooms here and there, sparsely, among 
 the green foliage and thorny stems. In 
 the former instance one looks at the mass 
 effect without a thought of the beauty of 
 individual flowers ; in the latter case one's 
 glance seeks out instinctively the single 
 bloom to drink in its beauty and fragrance. 
 Ah, but you say, how about the time when 
 there is not a single rose in sight.'' There 
 need be no such time between spring and 
 fall if you plant your rose garden to best 
 advantage. There is no need nor reason 
 to put all the June-blooming roses to- 
 gether, with the Teas and Hybrid Teas off 
 by themselves in another place. If the re- 
 montant types are interspersed through- 
 out your garden you need never, between 
 May and October, look for a rose in vain. 
 The shape of the beds, too, may be such 
 as to avoid an appearance of " too much 
 dirt " in the rose garden. For my own 
 part I would have a rectangular garden 
 and simple parallelograms for the beds, 
 although the rose garden about a central 
 feature has its strong attractions. But if 
 vou <irrange the beds in long narrow units 
 -four feet wide for a double row of 
 
A suggestion for a rectangular rose garden with 
 paths of turf. The beds are about forty inches 
 wide, the paths four feet, excepting the center 
 one, which is five feet in width. A hedge, which 
 might be of rugosa, contributes a desirable air of 
 seclusion 
 
Location and Soil 17 
 
 plants or twenty inches wide for a single 
 row, and as long as your purse will allow, 
 having the paths between the rows of turf 
 rather than gravel or brick, and the beds 
 slightly sunk below this turf, the rose 
 garden need never be less than most at- 
 tractive. Avoid beds wider than will ac- 
 commodate two rows of plants, for it is 
 essential that every rose bush in the gar- 
 den be immediately accessible from a path. 
 
 To those intensely practical persons 
 who object to walking through dew-wet 
 paths in the morning tour of the rose 
 garden, let me point out the obvious im- 
 possibility of having gravel paths immedi- 
 ately adjacent to the rose beds, and the 
 continued care required to keep in a pre- 
 sentable condition a narrow strip of sod 
 between path and bed. 
 
 Now as to the preparation of the rose 
 bed itself. First of all, dig the soil out 
 to a depth of tv/o feet at least, keeping the 
 top soil and sods and the subsoil in sep- 
 arate piles as they are taken out. Loosen 
 up the floor of the trench with a pick and 
 on this, if the ground needs draining, 
 which it will if it is a compact, sodden 
 surface, put a layer of stones, cinders 
 
1 8 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 and other material that will not decom- 
 pose. On top of this place the best of 
 the sub-soil mixed with a generous dressing 
 of well-rotted manure. Finally, add the 
 sod, well broken up, and the top soil, also 
 enriched with manure. Then fill in the 
 bed with enough good top soil, unmanured, 
 to bring it two or three inches above the 
 adjoining surface. Make sure that the 
 surface of the bed, after it has settled, 
 will be about one inch below that of the 
 adjoining sod in order to retain the 
 moisture from rain. This preparation of 
 the bed should be done at least several 
 weeks in advance of planting time. 
 
 In composing the soil for the rose bed, 
 it is well to remember that the Hybrid 
 Perpetuals require a heavy soil contain- 
 ing some clay. For Teas and Hybrid 
 Teas a lighter, warmer soil is better. In 
 his most admirable " Book of the Rose," 
 tlie Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar tells 
 an amusing incident in connection with 
 soil. The good rector was dining out and 
 had been served with a generous portion 
 of plum pudding. It was very dark, rich, 
 strong and greasy. Absent-mindedly he 
 sat back in his chair gazing at the dish 
 
Location and Soil 19 
 
 intently. His hostess, noticing his hes- 
 itancy, asked if anything were wrong with 
 the pudding. " Oh, no," repHed the rec- 
 tor unthinkingly, " I was thinking what 
 rare stuff it would be to grow roses in." 
 
 Top soil from an old pasture, if it be a 
 moderately heavy loam, taken with the 
 grass roots and chopped very fine, will do 
 excellently for the Hybrid Perpetuals. For 
 the Teas and Hybrid Teas, mix with soil 
 of this kind about one-quarter of its bulk 
 of sand and leaf mold to lighten it. Re- 
 member that all the manure that is used 
 should be incorporated with the lower two- 
 thirds of the bed; the upper third should 
 not contain any recently added manure as 
 it is apt to harm the roots of new plants. 
 
PREPARATION AND PLANTING 
 
 IN the vicinity of New York and further 
 north, I think it will be found that 
 spring planting is best. South of Phila- 
 delphia many roses are set out in the fall, 
 for here they become well established be- 
 fore cold weather sets in, and are there- 
 fore ready to start active groAvth at the 
 first touch of 'spring. 
 
 If spring planting is chosen the plants 
 must be put in the ground early — at the 
 very first opportunity — so that they will 
 have time to become firmly established be- 
 fore hot weather. Pot-grown plants from 
 a greenhouse cannot, of course, be set out 
 until all danger from frost is past. Roses 
 that are planted so late cannot be ex- 
 pected to show really satisfying results in 
 bloom the first year. Roses that are 
 planted early in the spring, if field-grown 
 stock as explained below, will with proper 
 cultivation give at least a reasonable 
 amount of bloom the first year, though not 
 so much as in later years. 
 
 20 
 
Preparation and Planting 21 
 
 One hears a great deal of argument on 
 the question of whether roses are best 
 grown on their own roots or when grown 
 on a sturdier stock, such as Manetti for 
 Hybrid Perpetuals and brier for Hybrid 
 Teas, which are probably the best rose 
 stocks for this country. It seems to be 
 the general consensus of opinion that roses 
 budded on these stocks will thrive much 
 more luxuriantly and give much better 
 blooms than those which depend upon 
 their own root systems. It is necessary, 
 however, to set the point at which the 
 shoot is budded to the stock about two 
 inches beneath the surface ; otherwise there 
 is the constant danger that suckers will 
 spring from the root and, if overlooked 
 for a time, these will kill the more desirable 
 shoots. 
 
 Several kinds of roses are offered by the 
 dealers for setting out in the spring. 
 There are the pot-grown roses mentioned 
 above — the only form in which many of 
 the climbers may be readily obtained. Mail- 
 order houses make a practice of sending 
 out the Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas 
 and Teas also in this form of very young 
 plants grown from cuttings under glass 
 
22 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 during the winter. Costing more, and 
 surely far more dependable, are the field- 
 grown roses that have originally been 
 budded on Manetti or brier and, usually 
 in two-year-old form, taken out of the 
 ground the previous fall while dormant, 
 to lie in cold houses until ready for plant- 
 ing. Such roses as these will surely bloom 
 the first season and are far better equipped 
 for the shock of being set into the open 
 ground again than the pot-grown plants 
 that have never had a taste of real garden 
 life. 
 
 A word of warning might profitably be 
 uttered against the cheap roses budded 
 on multiflora stock, grown in Holland and 
 sold in some of the department stores. 
 They are short-lived and very poor in com- 
 parison with plants on brier and Manetti. 
 Multiflora has been entirely discarded as 
 a stock by English and Irish growers. 
 
 Roses on their own roots have the ad- 
 vantage of being cheaper, due to the sav- 
 ing of labor in striking cuttings rather 
 than budding — one-year-old plants cost- 
 ing a dollar for six to a dozen ; two-year 
 and three-year-old bushes, which are, of 
 course, far more desirable, cost more in 
 
A dormant Tea rose as it is received from the 
 grower for planting in March. After planting 
 it should be still further pruned 
 
Preparation and Planting 23 
 
 proportion. Dormant, field-grown budded 
 roses cost, in the two-year-old size, from 
 thirty-five cents to a dollar each. 
 
 Before setting the plants examine each 
 carefully and cut off the broken roots with 
 a sharp knife, as well as all eyes that may 
 appear on the root stock, in order to fore- 
 stall suckers. The plants should be set 
 immediately upon their receipt from the 
 nurseryman, so that they will not become 
 dried out. If they seem dry it may be 
 well to puddle the roots in thin mud just 
 before setting. Make the hole large 
 enough to accommodate all of the plant's 
 roots without crowding, remembering to 
 put the budding point not less or more 
 than two inches below the surface and 
 with the roots spread out nearly horizon- 
 tally, but inclining downward towards their 
 ends and without crossing one another. 
 This will not be an easy matter, for in 
 shipment the roots will have probably 
 been so compressed that they extend al- 
 most directly downward from the collar. 
 After the plants have been firmly set and 
 the earth carefully packed in around the 
 roots, rake the soil to loosen it up over 
 the whole surface. The soil will probably 
 
24 Making. a Rose Garden 
 
 be moist enough at the time to need no 
 watering. 
 
 With the pot-grown plants, the moist 
 ball of earth that comes about the roots is 
 carefully retained intact and placed in the 
 hole prepared for the plant. Set the 
 plant firmly in place by pressure with the 
 soles of your shoes, give a generous water- 
 ing and finally break up the surface of the 
 soil with a rake. 
 
 It is absolutely essential to keep the sur- 
 face of the ground loosened with a hoe 
 and a sharp steel rake throughout the 
 summer. After very hard rain loosen the 
 soil as soon as it is dry enough to work, 
 to conserve the moisture. 
 
FERTILIZING 
 
 IN striking contrast to the exquisite 
 beauty of the rose is the food that we 
 must give it in abundance if we would 
 have the most healthy plants. But for 
 the true rose enthusiast the turning over 
 of a muck heap to find manure in just the 
 right form, or the dilution of the by- 
 products of the cow barn with water to 
 make the best stimulant, have nothing 
 about them that is in the least objection- 
 able. 
 
 If the .soil at our disposal is inclined to 
 be rich in clay, we can probably do no 
 better than incorporate well-decomposed 
 stable manure with it, by raking it, well 
 pulverized, into the surface in the early 
 spring. In sandy or gravelly soils, how- 
 ever, cow manure or that from the pig- 
 sty will serve far better. It must be re- 
 membered that when properly set out 
 the rose plant is comparatively shallow- 
 rooted, so that this raking of fine old 
 manure into the soil must be just that, and 
 
 25 
 
26 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 not the deep digging of half -rotted ma- 
 nure into the bed with a spading-f ork. The 
 aim in the method advocated is to put the 
 soHd manure where the spring rains will 
 carry it in time to the feeding roots, and 
 in the liquid form in which it is readily as- 
 similated. 
 
 The theory of this manurial feeding will 
 make clear the fact that a proper applica- 
 tion of liquid manure has practically all 
 the advantages of the former method with- 
 out its drawbacks. For solid manure, if 
 applied to the beds in quantities sufficient 
 to be of real value, has a tendency to keep 
 the needed air out of the top soil, and to 
 bring in its train an abundance of weeds 
 that will be hard to exterminate. So that, 
 with the exception of light sandy soils, 
 where the humus is needed, we shall do well 
 to feed the rose garden liquid nourish- 
 ment. 
 
 The time when this stimulant will be 
 most eiFective is in the months of May and 
 June, when most of the plants are putting 
 all their efforts into the forming buds. 
 Withhold the liquid in dry spells, for it is 
 most appreciated immediately after a 
 good, soaking rain. 
 
Fertilizing 27 
 
 Avoid getting the manure on the 
 fohage, and make sure that it errs on the 
 side of weakness rather than strength. 
 Suspending a burlap sack containing a 
 bushel of cow manure in a barrel of water 
 for two days, will give a solution that 
 needs dilution with its own bulk of water. 
 A half -gallon to a plant each week will be 
 a sufficient normal feeding. 
 
 Immediately after dosing the beds go 
 over them with a rake or prong-hoe and 
 loosen up the surface to prevent evapora- 
 tion. 
 
 A vital principle in feeding rose plants 
 is one that seems to be overlooked in- 
 stinctively by seven out of ten amateur 
 gardeners. It is this : A strong-growing, 
 healthy plant needs and will absorb a large 
 quantity of liquid manure ; a sickly plant, 
 or one that is not yet well established, does 
 not need and cannot absorb even the nor- 
 mal quantity of this food. Yet how often 
 are we tempted to feed to excess this weak- 
 ling and withhold food from that nearby 
 sturdy bush, because the latter " doesn't 
 need it." Just bear in mind the fact that 
 we do not give burgundy to a puny child 
 that is struggling against the effects of 
 
28 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 malnutrition, but that a healthy, growing 
 boy can consume an astonishing amount of 
 food and drink. 
 
 To review the year's activities in fer- 
 tilizing : let us put a top dressing of rough 
 manure over the beds in the fall, about 
 three inches deep, with further protection 
 where the climate demands it. In the 
 spring we shall rake off the coarse portion 
 of this covering, leaving the finely pulver- 
 ized manure to be raked gently into the 
 top soil if it needs this additional humus 
 (the manure's food value will have been 
 washed down by the winter's rain and 
 snow). If our soil is clayey the whole 
 top dressing will be hoed off. In May and 
 June come the generous applications of 
 the liquid manure, and for the Teas and 
 Perpetuals that really do continue to 
 flower, these applications may well be con- 
 tinued through the summer at less fre- 
 quent intervals, leaving off at the end of 
 August, let us say, so as not to encourage 
 unnecessarily the late summer's growth of 
 wood. 
 
 Although not many of us, in all prob- 
 ability, will meet the unusual condition of 
 having for our rose gardens only an over- 
 
Fertilizing 29 
 
 fertilized soil in a long-used garden, it 
 may be well to mention the fact that such 
 a soil will not produce good roses. Treat- 
 ment with lime will help matters for a 
 time, but if within the range of possibility 
 we should remake the garden with virgin 
 soil. 
 
 The use of nitrate of soda and like 
 stimulants may be undertaken sparingly in 
 the spring, but these are better left to 
 those gardeners who have learned, possibly 
 through disastrous experiences, how prop- 
 erly to use them. 
 
PRUNING 
 
 THE rose is one of those plants that 
 seem to need the firm hand of man to 
 direct them in the way they should grow. 
 If left to their own devices, most of the 
 highly cultivated roses revert quickly to 
 lower types ; they need the pitiless pruning- 
 knife to spur them to their best endeavor. 
 
 It will readily be seen that severe prun- 
 ing, as a general principle, tends towards 
 greater beauty of individual blooms, while 
 light pruning is conducive to a better 
 rounded-out form of bush at the expense of 
 the flowers. Or, again, the severe pruning 
 gives quality of bloom as opposed to quan- 
 tity of bloom. 
 
 Always cut back the plants severely 
 when first setting them out — Teas and 
 Hybrid Teas less than the Hybrid Per- 
 petuals, and the climbers least of all. 
 
 Unreasonable as it may seem, the plants 
 of vigorous habit of «Trowth need less prun- 
 ing than the less active ones. 
 
 Pruning may be started with the dwarf 
 30 
 
Pruning 3 1 
 
 Hybrid Perpetuals in March — leaving four 
 or five canes three feet in length if large 
 masses of bloom are wanted. The result 
 will be a large number of small flowers. 
 If, on the other hand, fewer and larger 
 flowers are wanted, all weak growth should 
 be removed and every healthy cane re- 
 tained and cut back in preparation for the 
 plant's development. The weakest should 
 not have more than four inches of wood 
 left on the root, while the strongest may 
 have eight or nine inches. Always prune 
 a cane about a quarter of an inch above 
 an outside bud unless the cane is very far 
 from the vertical, when an inside one 
 should be left for the terminal shoot. See 
 that the w'ood is not torn or bruised in the 
 operation. 
 
 The pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas 
 had better be postponed until the first signs 
 of life appear. The bark becomes greener 
 and the dormant buds begin to swell. Dead 
 or dying wood will then readily be notice- 
 able and it may be removed. Remember 
 that these two classes do not need such 
 severe pruning as do the Hybrid Perpetu- 
 als ; twice the amount of wood may safely 
 be left if it seems promising. 
 
32 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 Dormant rose plants bought in the spring 
 will arrive from the growers already partly 
 pruned. In general, from one-half to 
 two-thirds of the remaining length of cane 
 should be cut off when the plants are set 
 out, removing entirely all bruised or dead 
 wood. Bear in mind always, if your con- 
 science revolts at such severe cutting, that 
 the strongest dormant buds are nearest 
 the base of the plant and it is these we 
 want to force into growth to bear the prize 
 blooms. 
 
 With the ramblers very little cutting 
 is needed ; merely cut back the shoots that 
 seem to be outdistancing their neighbors 
 by too much, and cut out entirely the dead 
 canes. 
 
 The rugosa is intended to be a bush 
 rather than a strong, lean plant for prize 
 blooms. Merely cut out old, dry wood 
 and trim back the longer shoots to the 
 desired form. 
 
 Use a first-class pair of pruning shears 
 in order that the work may be done quickly 
 and, above all, with clean cuts that show 
 no tearing or abrasion of the bark. 
 
PESTS 
 
 ONCE more let me repeat the fact that 
 by far the most effective campaign 
 against the insects and other pests that in- 
 fest rose plants is to be found, not in 
 sprayings and dustings, but rather in 
 maintaining to the best of our ability a 
 condition of health in the plant itself. 
 Prevention here, as always, is better than 
 cure. Nor can it be too strongly empha- 
 sized that the daily use of a powerful but 
 finely divided spray from the hose will 
 make life on the rose plant miserable for 
 practically all of the parasites. 
 
 The following are the chief enemies that 
 we may encounter in the rose garden. 
 They are briefly described so as to be 
 recognizable when found, and for the an- 
 nihilation or keeping in check of each is 
 given one of the many remedies. Prac- 
 tically every rosarian develops, after a 
 time, his own pet formulas for these poi- 
 sons, so that rose books will be found to 
 contain a wonderfully varied assortment of 
 
 33 
 
34 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 weapons — so numerous in fact that one 
 would think the army of rose pests could 
 never live to continue their depredations 
 another season. 
 
 Aphis or Green Fly 
 
 A small, pale green louse, winged or 
 wingless, with a soft, fat, oval body ap- 
 parently too big for its legs. A single 
 aphis in five generations may become the 
 progenitor of 6,000,000,000. 
 
 Tobacco smoke is an excellent weapon, 
 or, if a spray is found more convenient 
 to apply, a solution of 4 oz. of tobacco 
 stems boiled for 10 min. in 1 gal. of soft 
 water, will do. The same weight of quas- 
 sia chips may be substituted for the to- 
 bacco. If the tobacco is used, the cheapest 
 that can be bought is the best for the pur- 
 pose. Strain the solution and add 4 oz. of 
 soft soap while it is still hot, stirring well 
 to dissolve the soap. 
 
 Another remedy — 1 qt. of soft soap 
 boiled in 2 qts. of soft water, adding 1 pt. 
 of paraffin before cooling — is well recom- 
 mended. It should be applied diluted with 
 soft water to ten times its bulk. The 
 
Pests 35 
 
 paraffin acts as an astringent which, to- 
 gether with the soft soap, cleanses the 
 plant of honey-dew, which is exuded by 
 the aphis to protect its feet against cold 
 and wet. 
 
 Mildew 
 
 A fungous disease that may appear 
 when the rose plants are in a damp, shady 
 or ill-ventilated location. Although some 
 varieties are more susceptible than others 
 to this disease, the rose garden located out 
 in the open, where the air has unobstructed 
 access, will not be troubled much by mil- 
 dew. When the disease appears late in the 
 autumn it need not be feared. 
 
 Dusting flowers of sulphur upon the 
 foliage, taking care to reach the under 
 side of leaves as well as the upper, and 
 upon the ground about the plants, is a 
 well established remedy. It will be found 
 convenient to shake the powder from a 
 baking-powder can, the end of which is 
 punched with holes, if a regular powder 
 gun is not at hand. Use the sulphur in 
 the early morning, when the dew will help 
 to hold it on the leaves, or else spray the 
 plants with water beforehand. 
 
36 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 Rose Thrip 
 
 A small, yellowish white insect with 
 transparent wings^ usually found on the 
 under side of the rose leaves. ' This pest 
 appears in swarms and in an astonishingly 
 short time turns the foliage yellow. 
 
 If the pest appears, spray the rose 
 plants daily with a hose as suggested above. 
 If this does not prove efficacious^ dust the 
 under side of the leaves with white helle- 
 bore in a powder gun. Whale oil soap 
 solution, in the proportions of 5 oz. of 
 soap to 1 gal. of water, is a very good 
 remedy. It is easier to dissolve the soap 
 if the water is hot. 
 
 Rose Caterpillar or Leaf-roller 
 
 Several kinds of caterpillars may ap- 
 pear, varying from one-half to three-quar- 
 ters of an inch in length, and either green, 
 yellow or brown in color. They have a 
 habit of enveloping themselves in the rose 
 leaves, or boring their way into the flower 
 buds. In the latter case they are very 
 apt to be overlooked. 
 
 Powdered hellebore will hinder their 
 progress, but by far the most effective 
 
Pests 37 
 
 weapons are the finger and thumb — 
 gloved, if you msist. 
 
 Rose Chafer or Rose-hug 
 
 This brown beetle, less than one-half 
 inch in length, is one of the best-known 
 rose pests. It is a slow-moving creature 
 that appears suddenly in armies in the 
 blooming season in June, and is the more 
 annoying for the reason that it devotes its 
 attention almost entirely to the flowers 
 themselves. 
 
 Paris green, dusted over the plants, will 
 kill the pest, but this poison has a disagree- 
 able way of showing no intelligent discrim- 
 ination in the choice of its victims. Really 
 the only satisfactory method of attack is 
 to knock the stupid creatures ofl^ the 
 flowers into a tin of kerosene and then 
 burn it. 
 
 Rose Slug 
 
 The larvae of a saw-fly which comes up 
 out of the ground in May and June. The 
 female makes incisions in the leaves and 
 deposits her eggs, which hatch out in about 
 two weeks. The slugs will eat an aston- 
 ishing am.ount of leaf if not checked. They 
 
38 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 are about a half-inch long, green, and will 
 be found on the upper side of the leaf. 
 
 Powdered white hellebore, dusted on the 
 foliage, or the solution of whale oil soap 
 mentioned for the Rose Thrip, will keep 
 it in check. 
 
 White Grub 
 
 An underground enem}^ that feeds on the 
 roots of rose plants. The withering or 
 sickliness of the plant is sufficient reason 
 to cause a thorough search to be made by 
 lifting it. The grub, which is provided 
 with six legs near the head, and which coils 
 itself into a crescent shape when in repose, 
 is particularly fond of strawberry plants, 
 so it will be well to keep these some distance 
 away from the rose garden. 
 
 There is no insecticide that will be ef- 
 fective, because of the underground point 
 of attack. Lifting the plant and remov- 
 ing the grub is the only thing that can 
 be done. 
 
 Bark Louse or White Scale 
 
 This appears when the rose bush is 
 grown in a damp, shady place. It is snow 
 
Pests 39 
 
 white and individual scales are about one- 
 tenth of an inch in diameter, irregularly 
 round. 
 
 Cut off and bum badly infested shoots. 
 Spray with 1 lb. of soap in 1 gal. of water 
 in early winter and again in early spring. 
 Weaker summer applications may be used 
 also — 1 lb. in 4 or 6 gal. once in three 
 weeks throughout the season will reach all 
 the larvse. 
 
 Our Allies 
 
 It is well to remember that there are 
 friends of the rose in the lower animal 
 world as well as enemies — the toad, lady- 
 bug, ground-bird and swallow, particu- 
 larly. Th-e toad is sometimes brought by 
 the English gardeners from a distance to 
 help wage war on the pests ; the lady-bug 
 may be passed thankfully by when seen; 
 and it may be w^ell to try attracting the 
 birds to the rose garden by scattering a 
 few crumbs there daily — not too many, but 
 just enough to arouse a real appetite for 
 insect pests. 
 
PROPAGATION 
 
 THE propagation of his own stock is 
 a task for which the expert is better 
 fitted than the beginner for whom this 
 book is written. Nevertheless, I doubt 
 whether the amateur will pass through his 
 first year of rose growing without wish- 
 ing to make an attempt to multiply the 
 stock of those roses which have with him 
 been most successful, or to bud a choice 
 variety from a friend's garden on the fos- 
 ter-parent stock for his own place. 
 
 Whereas in England the process of bud- 
 ding is carried on very widely and with 
 fair success among amateur and pro- 
 fessional rosarians alike, with us this means 
 of propagation seems fraught with greater 
 difficulty. Excepting in the case of vari- 
 eties that do not readily root from cut- 
 tings, this latter method of propagation 
 is generally adopted where roses on their 
 own roots are desired. 
 
 The best time for taking cuttings from 
 a plant is towards the end of the summer, 
 
 40 
 
Propagation 41 
 
 when the ripe wood of the current year's 
 growth will be available. Ten inches is a 
 convenient length for the pieces and some 
 rosarians feel that if a " heel," or por- 
 tion of older wood, remains on the lower 
 end there will be greater likelihood of root- 
 ing. Remove all but the two top leaves 
 and set the cutting in a li^ht soil, or even 
 in pure sand, so that only the two upper 
 buds are exposed. Leave the cuttings in 
 the ground until the following autumn, 
 when those that have taken root may be 
 transplanted and set at a less depth in their 
 permanent quarters. 
 
 Budding is a far more interesting 
 process to carry through, and by it we 
 may have sturdier roses on a stock like 
 Manetti or brier. A very sharp knife is 
 required, with some raffia for tying the bud 
 securely into the stock. In the limited 
 scope of this book I can but indicate very 
 roughly the general procedure, and, in- 
 deed, budding is far more readily learned 
 by watching a skilled rosarian do it than 
 by reading many pages of description. 
 Briefly, then, a bud, which may be found 
 under any petiole, is carefully sliced, with 
 its surrounding bark and backing of wood. 
 
42 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 from the half-ripe stalk of the variety to 
 be propagated, leaving the petiole in place 
 to serve as a handle. This is probably 
 best done in July. After removing very 
 gently the wood backing from the bark 
 and bud, the latter are slipped into a T- 
 shaped incision in the foster stock, this 
 incision to be made through the bark to 
 the actual wood of the stalk. The bud 
 and its supporting bark are inserted be- 
 tween the wood and bark of the stock, the 
 latter then being wrapped with a few turns 
 of raffia to hold the bud in place. After 
 a period of a month the bud will either 
 have taken hold or failed, and the tie may 
 be removed. 
 
 The rose plants that we buy already 
 budded on Manetti or brier are produced 
 in this way, excepting that the bud is in- 
 serted very low on the stock, so that the 
 junction will be underground. This is the 
 more desirable place for budding, insur- 
 ing, if we nip the suckers as they may 
 appear, a plant that above ground 
 shows only the shoots of the desired va- 
 riety. 
 
 Grafting is practiced only in the case 
 of roses grown under glass, when the scions 
 
A shoot of an improved variety of rose grafted and 
 held in place with raffia to the stock of a sturdy 
 growth like Manetti. At tlie right is a ''sucker" 
 or growth from the root, and it must be cut off as 
 soon as it appears 
 
Propagation 43 
 
 are cleft into stocks of Manetti or brier 
 grown in pots for the purpose. 
 
 Layering is used as a means of increas- 
 ing the stock only in the case of roses 
 that do not readily strike from cuttings. 
 It consists of bending down a long shoot 
 so that a section of it may be pegged un- 
 derground to take root. 
 ■ Propagation by seed is limited to the ef- 
 forts to obtain new varieties after cross- 
 fertilization, and is a discouragingly slow 
 and uncertain process. 
 
WINTER PROTECTION 
 
 IT will be a red-letter day for amateur 
 rosarians when the existing favorites 
 among rose plants shall have been so im- 
 proved by cross-breeding that we can leave 
 off all the winter overcoats of straw, brush 
 and earth, with the happy knowledge that 
 spring will find as many live plants in the 
 rose garden as we rejoiced in during the 
 previous season. 
 
 Although the Hybrid Perpetuals are, 
 for the most part, sufficiently hardy to 
 withstand an ordinary winter unprotected, 
 it is still the part of wisdom to conserve 
 their energy and health by hoeing up the 
 earth about their bases and putting over 
 all a top dressing of rough manure when 
 protecting the Hybrid Teas and Teas. In 
 the northern states it will be well to tie up 
 the tops of the latter with straw or to sur- 
 round the bed with a border of boards or 
 wire netting, after winter has set in, and 
 cover the plants with a thick blanket of 
 leaves held down by brush. This protec- 
 
 44 
 
In England the "standard" rose, having a long stem 
 of the foster stock, is quite common. With us it 
 is less frequently seen on account of the bother 
 of proper winter protection 
 
Winter Protection 45 
 
 tion should be removed gradually in 
 March. 
 
 Where the winters are particularly se- 
 vere, a still more certain precaution is to 
 dig up the plants and lay them in well- 
 drained trenches, covering them with earth 
 and a further layer of leaves, straw or 
 •brush. The aim is not to protect the 
 plants from freezing at all, but to pre- 
 vent the alternate freezing and thawing 
 that is so disastrous. 
 
 Another treatment for tender roses is 
 to winter them in boxes of soil in a cool 
 cellar. In case this is done, see that the 
 earth is not allowed to dry out entirely. 
 At planting time in the spring the dor- 
 mant plants will be taken out, dipped in a 
 bucket of thin mud and replanted in the 
 garden. 
 
 While we may be willing for the present 
 to take such precautions with the garden 
 roses, most of us will not care to coddle 
 the climbers to anything like this extent. 
 Beyond hoeing up a mound of earth about 
 the bases of these and top-dressing them, 
 we shall let the climbers fight their own 
 battles, and leave the result to the prin- 
 ciple of the survival of the fittest. 
 
LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES 
 
 IT is a difficult matter, indeed, to select, 
 from the experience of rose growers 
 and from the long lists of the nursery- 
 men's catalogues, a few that may be safely 
 named as the best roses. In fact, it is a 
 task that no one would care to undertake. 
 It may be helpful, however, to add the fol- 
 lowing list ; these are by no means the 
 only good roses, but in choosing any or 
 all of these the amateur cannot well go 
 astray. For the benefit of his experi- 
 ence and advice regarding these lists, I 
 am indebted, among others, to Dr. Robert 
 Huey, of Philadelphia — probably the most 
 experienced amateur grower of roses in 
 the United States. 
 
 It has been thought best not to attempt 
 individual descriptions nor to go very far 
 into details of color. The lists, then, are 
 grouped into rough sub-divisions under the 
 main colors, and it will be understood that 
 " pink," for instance, will include a rather 
 wide range of varying tints. 
 
 46 
 
Lists of Dependable Roses 47 
 
 Hybrid Perpetuals 
 
 White — Merveille de Lyon, White 
 Baroness, Frau Karl Druschki, Margaret 
 Dickson, Mabel Morrison, Gloire Lyon- 
 naise (in reality a Hybrid Tea, but as it 
 blooms only in June it may be included 
 in the Hybrid Perpetual class). 
 ' Pink — Baroness Rothschild, Caroline 
 D'Arden, Heinrich Schultheis, Her 
 Majesty, Lady Arthur Hill, Mrs. George 
 Dickson, Mrs. Harkness, Susan Marie Ro- 
 docanachi, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Ney- 
 ron, Marie Finges, Marquise de Castel- 
 lane, Mrs. R. S. Sharman-Crawford, Sou- 
 venir de la Malmaison. 
 
 Red — • Captain Hayward, Fisher 
 Holmes, General Jacqueminot, Oscar Cor- 
 del, Ulrich Brunner, Duke of Edinburgh, 
 Duke of Teck, Anne de Diesbach, Duke of 
 Fife, Etienne Levet, Prince Arthur, Ard's 
 Rover (climber). 
 
 Prince Camille de Rohan is the best of 
 the very dark roses, among which also are 
 Sultan of Zanzibar, Louis Van Houtte, and 
 Xavier Olibo. These, however, are weak 
 growers and frequently do not bring their 
 blossoms to perfection. 
 
48 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 Teas 
 
 White — White ?*Iaman Cochet, Hon. 
 Edith Gifford. 
 
 Pink — WilHam R. Smith, Maman 
 Cochet, Souvenir d'un Ami, Duchesse de 
 Brabant, Mrs. B. R. Cant.^ 
 
 Yellow — Harry Kirk, Etoile de Lyon, 
 Francis ca Krueger, Isabelle Sprunt, 
 Safrano, Marie Van Houtte. 
 
 Hybrid Teas 
 
 White or light-colored and mixed — ' 
 Viscountess Folkestone, Pharisaer, Molly 
 Sharman-Crawford, Ellen Wilmot, Grace 
 Molyneaux, Antoine Revoire, Joseph Hill, 
 Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Betty, Prince de Bul- 
 garie. La Tosca, Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
 toria. 
 
 Pink — Killarney, Lady Alice Stanley, 
 Lady Ursula, Dean Hole, Lyon Rose, 
 Dorothy Page Roberts, Madame Edmee 
 Metz, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. Charles Cus- 
 tis Harrison, Caroline Testout, La 
 France. 
 
 Yellow — Duchess of Wellington, Mrs. 
 Aaron Ward, Madame Ravary, Madame 
 
Lists of Dependable Roses 49 
 
 Melanie Soupert, Madame Hector Leuil- 
 lot, Melody. 
 
 Red — George C. Waud, Lawrent Carle, 
 Gruss an Teplitz, Chateau de Closvoges, 
 
 Etoile de France. 
 
 I 
 
 Moss Roses 
 
 White — Blanche Moreau. 
 Pink — Crested Moss. 
 
 RuGOSA AND Its Hybrids 
 
 White — Blanc Double de Coubert ; Rosa 
 rugosa, var. alba. 
 
 Pink — Conrad F. Meyer. 
 
 Red — Arnold; Rosa rugosa, var. rubra. 
 
 WiCHURAIANA HYBRIDS 
 
 White — WIchuraiana, White Dorothy. 
 Pink — ^Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, W. 
 C. Egan, Sargent. 
 Red — Hiawatha. 
 
 Noisettes 
 
 Yellow— Cloth of Gold, Reve d'Or 
 (climber). Fortune's Yellow. 
 
50 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 POLYANTHAS 
 
 White — Trier, Catherine Ziemet. 
 
 Pink — Tausendschon, ClothiWe Soupert. 
 
 Red — Carmine Pillar. 
 
 Prairie Roses 
 
 White — Baltimore Belle. 
 Pink — Rosa setigera. 
 
 Austrian Briers 
 
 Yellow — Harrison's Yellow, Persian 
 Yellow, Austrian Copper. 
 
A GLOSSARY OF TERMS 
 
 Anther — a rounded knob-like form at the 
 top of the stamen, containing the pollen. 
 
 Callus — a swelling which occurs at the 
 base of a cutting previous to the forma- 
 tion of roots. 
 
 Calyx — the narrow green leaves or sepals 
 forming the covering for the bud. 
 
 Corymb — a group of flower stalks arising 
 from a common stalk and forming a 
 level top. 
 
 Cutting— ra section of a stalk containing 
 several eyes or dormant buds, taken for 
 the propagation of a new plant. 
 
 Disbud — ^to deprive a stalk of flower buds 
 by pinching or rubbing these off^. It 
 is done in order to throw more energy 
 into the remaining bud or buds. 
 
 Hep or hip — the seed pod. 
 
 Hybrid — a new species resulting from the 
 cross-fertilization of two species. 
 
 Leaflet — a single member of the compound 
 leaf borne by all rose plants. 
 
 Maiden plant — a plant blooming for the 
 
 51 
 
52 Making a Rose Garden 
 
 first time after being budded or grafted 
 to a stock. 
 
 Ovary — the hollow lower end of a pistil, 
 containing the embryo seeds. 
 
 Panicle — a cluster of flowers borne irreg- 
 ularly on a stem. 
 
 Petiole — the stalk to which the several 
 leaflets are attached. 
 
 Pistil — the seed-bearing organ in the cen- 
 ter of a flower, consisting of one or more 
 styles, one or more stigmas and the 
 ovary. 
 
 Pollen — the powdery substance found in 
 the anthers. 
 
 Remontant — applied to roses that flower 
 the second time in a summer. 
 
 Sepals — ^the narrow green leaves of a pithy 
 texture forming the calyx. 
 
 Sport — a shoot or sucker from a plant, 
 showing some peculiar feature or 
 features distinguishing it from its 
 parent. 
 
 Stamens — the male organs surrounding 
 the pistil. 
 
 Stigma — the upper end of the pistil, ca- 
 pable of receiving the pollen and con- 
 nected with the ovary by a tube extend- 
 ing down through the style. 
 
A Glossary of Terms 53 
 
 Style — the erect columnar support of the 
 stigma. 
 
 Sucker — a branch or shoot proceeding 
 from the root or stem of a plant, below 
 the surface of the ground. Frequently 
 used as meaning a shoot from the root- 
 stock of a budded or grafted plant. 
 
i 11 i9^2