t • o ^- ^-t' ^..^^ o " • ^^""^ • 4 ^ • , 4 o • • s °o ft^ .0-0, -^ o " o .^*^°- _ t . o ^^-b - ovV-^x. L^V^. °, c 'V.'^^ ^■b^. c^^. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/travelsineurope Travels in ELurope and Northern Africa rv."s%. ry Digest Party of 1900 I ROSE. OHIO TRAVELS IN EUROPE . . AND . . . NORTHERN AFRICA. A WOMAN'S VIEW. By MRS. W. G. ROSE, CLEVELAND, O. PRESS OF THE WHITWORTH. BROS. CO. CLEVELAND, O. 190 1. u. DEDICATION. This book is dedicated to the Cleveland Health Protective Association, which has pleaded successfully for waste paper boxes, disposal of garbage, and an abatement of the smoke nuisance. It now hopes to have enough lamps lighted to protect the cit- izens at night; and steam heat for factories and dwelling houses from a steam company, as is done in many smaller cities. The Society has iSvSued a cook book of 262 pages, giving simple rules for every- day cooking, furnished by the members. PREFACE. We could have named this book ''Eighty Travelers in Europe" under the guidance of the Eiterary Digest Co. of Gaze, ^ which has kindly lent us one-half of our illustrations, and to which we now return most sincere thanks. The others were of our own snap shots in Rome, or from photographs obtained at the places visited. Two other records of the tour have been issued, show- ing that it was greatly appreciated. The roster represented twenty-two states and was composed of judges, lawyers, ex- mayors, business men, physicians, merchants and their wives, and about thirty young people, including boys and girls at eleven, fourteen and fifteen years of age, and their mothers and grand- mothers. Mr. Eugene Thwing, the director, was indefatigable in his efforts to find lost baggage and promote the general com- fort of the party, many of which formed friendships that will never be forgotten. We could have named our little book "The Innocents Re- turned" and included in it the accidents to baggage, the protests against rooms, the change of couriers, and the extra grip sacks when the ones lost were restored, the attack of la grippe and the kindly offer of all the remedies of the company. We also had a ''Coelebs in search of a wife" whose income, he said, was $200,000 annually, and who spent less for extras than any one else in the party. We had ranchmen from Arizona, chemists from Dakota, pioneers from California, whose fathers ran the stage for the forty-,^- tiiners, a professor of Columbia University, and such a clear-head- ed and strong-minded set of people that the couriers of nineteen years could not palm off any of their old ways upon them. But these incidents were not what we traveled for, and we therefore give a woman's view of scenes and places as they impressed us. Mattik ParmkivKe Rose. European Tour OF THE LITERARY DIGEST PARTY CHAPTER I Cork, IvAkes of KiIvIvArney, Dubinin, ^^ HE tour of the Literary Digest Part}^ was inaugurated X by a banquet at the Park Avenue Hotel, New York, ^^ July 6th, 1900, about one-half of the number that was to make up the company being present. After a ten course dinner had been served, I. N. Funk, of the lyiterary Digest, acting as toastmaster, spoke of what we could anticipate in the Paris Exposition, -^ the Passion Play, at Oberammergau, and other scenes in the historic countries to be visited. Edi- tor Wagnalls gave an account of his first ascent of the Alps, saying the alpenstock used was so strong that it could be placed with each end upon a chair and sat upon without break- ing. Others spoke, but their voices were lost in strains of music coming from outside the banquet room. Saturday, the day we sailed, was as warm as only a New York summer knows how to lO TRAVELS IN EUROPE. be, but a merry company was ready for adventure and fatigue in any form. The steamer Etruria, on which we embarked, had three other tourist parties on board, all full of life and enthusiasm. There were those who had crossed the Atlantic as many as thirty times; one who had rounded the Gape of Good Hope; another who could tell of Florida; some, of the White Mountains or of the pyramids of Egypt, and all were glad to exchange thoughts on the pleasures of travel. The Sabbath witnessed a crowded dining-room, for divine service, which was read by the captain of the steamer, from the Episcopal ritual. At breakfast two sit- tings were allowed; the first, to accommodate those who arose with the sun, and the last, for those of later habit. The menu was excellent: apples, peaches, plums, pineapples and raspber- ries; and meats, bread and cakes in great variety. As we sat on the deck and looked out over the smooth sur- face of the ocean, dotted only by small flecks of foam, the gen- eral conversation was very much enlivened by the young men and women, from sixteen to twenty, who were among the pas- sengers. ''What you put into the first of life, you put into the whole of life" is a very true statement; and the ocean furnishes many instructive object lessons for the young. To see the ocean is to understand its vastness, and to watch the working of the great steam engine awakens thought on mechanism and power. And when the test of knowledge comes, it is so much better to be able to say, "Yes, I remember what it is," than simply, "I have studied about it." Actual sight will give the mind more understanding in a year than mere descriptions will in four. A reading circle was formed soon after we left New York, CORK, I^AKKS OF KIIvI^ARNKY, DUBININ. II and the Passion Play was read, as well as newspaper and mag- azine articles bearing on the route to be taken. On Wednesday evening, a mimic law court was enacted ,>.-^ lawyers and doctors taking part and a jury being empaneled. The case was one of larceny, being the stealing of two silver hat pins, set with small diamonds and valued at ten pounds. Both the pro- secution and defence were very funny and brought out a good deal of ability on the part of the attorneys. After the perform- ance, the passengers seemed better acquainted than a week's voyage without such incidents would have made them. The library of the Etruria was well filled with good books, Boswell's Life of Johnson, Hume's Detective Stories and Strick- "" land's Lives of the Queens of Scotland being samples of their character. As we neared the coast of Ireland, several detours from the route were suggested, some wishing to visit Windsor Castle, some Holland and some Italy. Queenstown harbor is protected by two immense forts, has ten square miles of surface, and is the finest in Great Britain. Six miles from it is Monkstown, which has a castle that was built by a woman, and as she paid for it in goods, all excepting one groat, the inhabitants in its vicinity say that it cost but a groat. Cork has a wall built by the Danes, in the 9th century, and a cathedral built on the site of a pagan temple, in the 7th century. Desmond McCarthy surrendered this cathedral to Henry II in 1172; Cromwell took it in 1649 and Marlborough, in 1690. This is the edifice where William Penn became a Quaker, through the preaching of Thomas Lee. The bells of Shandon 12 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. are in the tower of St. Ann's Church, built in 1772. Victoria Park contains 140 acres. The ride of eight miles to Blarney Castle was made in omni- buses and jaunting cars. When we alighted at Blarney village, w^omen met us with strawberries of a most delicious flavor, which they sold for three- -,— -| pence per pint and presented to us on leaves 1 of the grape vine. Gooseberries, both ripe and green, of great size, were also offered us and were served in the same manner. To reach the castle, w^e had to cross a rustic bridge and then a campus, dotted here and Blarney CasUe. t • i ^ -. -. ■• • -. there with large chestnut trees, under which were seats; making a good place for tournaments and giving the castle a hospitable appearance. We followed a wide path up a hill, as the lower windows of the castle were barred, and entered the tower, wdth its spiral stairway of 120 feet. As you go upward, corridors lead off to different parts of the building. At the top, where you reach down to kiss the Blarney Stone, two iron rods extend the entire side of the tower. In explanation of their use, we were told that between them stones could be let fall on the heads . of invaders below; and, also, that the triangle by each long, narrow window was so placed to enable the inmates to send arrow^s from both sides, while those shooting from without would have little chance of getting even one arrow to enter the small opening. Ivy was creeping across the walls from without, and as w^e looked over the battlements, we could see a wing, two stories high, which had a bay window, and three large, long window^s on each side, similar to houses of the present century. All but one of our party, of eighty persons, made the ascent CORK, IvAKKS OF KII.LARNKY, DUBININ. 1 3 of Blarney Castle, and a dozen were held by the feet while they reached under the arch and kissed the Blarney Stone. The guardsman at the rustic bridge said the castle was built in the 15th century, by Cormac McCarthy, one of the petty kings of Ireland. At Blarney village, we saw "National School" on a low two- story building, which had white sash curtains at the lower, and boxes of flowers at the upper windows, giving it a cozy appear- ance. As our three omnibuses and six jaunting cars, over one of which "Old Glory" floated, passed along the streets, the pe- destrians gazed and smiled upon us in good natured wonder, and as we approached Cork, we saw flocks of sheep and herds of goats and other cattle being driven along the same road over which we passed. The Imperial -Hotel, at Cork, gave us a meat luncheon, but for a cup of coffee, we had to pay sixpence (12 cents) each. We left for Killarney at four o'clock in the afternoon, arriving at six. The next morning at ten we drove through the village of Killar- ney, past an Episcopal and a Catholic church, both of which were built of grey granite, and entered an arch of lime and ash trees, the bark on the trunks of which was covered with green mold. The great branches spread over us, making a roof of green. On either side was a wall five feet high, built, we were told, three hundred 3^ears ago. The stones of the top row were placed edgewise and the interstices filled with earth, and upon this grass was growing and English ivy was matted for a foot or more. Through openings in the trees, made on either side, we caught glimpses of vistas of sloping meadow-land and green hills draped in purple. We passed the residence occupied by Queen 14 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. Victoria in i86r, which is of a pale yellow color, also a cottage used b}^ her, with grounds sloping down to the water's edge. Holly trees, yew trees and laurel bushes hedged us in. After a two hours' ride, we approached Muckross Abbey, which was founded in 1440 and rebuilt in 1602. These cathedrals, Inver- ness, Ross and others, were destroyed by Cromwell. The win- dow's are long and narrow and the ceilings lofty. On one side of Muckross is a room without a roof and in it grows a huge yew tree, which was planted when the castle was first being built. A marvellous way of preserving the age of a cathedral. Some queer epitaphs were to be seen on metal or marble slabs on the walls of some rooms. One Stephen Coppenger says of his wife Helen, "Her solid understanding, her judicious thoughts diffused charity and true piety and adherence to the Christian religion, the charity which she never ceased to perform, rendered her an object of admiration to all w^ho had the happi- ness to know her. She lived and died the ninth of August, 1802." A vsimilar one was to the memory of one Mary Delaney, who died Januar}^ 13, 1737. Lunch was served at noon within sight of the oldest bridge in Ireland, which consisted of one stone arch. One-half of our party came by boat and met us near this bridge, which is oppo- site Brandon cottage, so noted in Churchill's late novel, "When Knighthood was in Flower." Three boats took us across the Killarney lakes, while a cornetist played "The Star Spangled Banner," "Annie lyaurie" and other melodies. The music w^as perfect, bringing out the sad tones of the Scotch songs with much pathos. At Inverness we were drenched with rain, having to seek shelter in the deep doorways and under the trees. Fortunately,. CORK, LAKES OF KILLARNEY, DUBLIN. 1 5 the shower soon passed and as we rode to Ross Castle our boat- man told us of the castle of the Earl of Kenmere, whose owner lives in Grosvenor Square, lyondon, nine months of the year.' Kenmore Castle is a modern structure of red stone. The boat- man showed us the pulpit-rock, where O' Donahue comes back to preach in the Irish tongue. We also passed the rock of Colleen Bawn, then landing at Castle Ross, which is the best preserved- of the older castles. Here strawberries and gooseberries were again offered for sale, and also jewelry made of bog-wood. Many sales were made to the half of our party that was waiting for the carriages, which had gone to the hotel with the other half. Great bushes of blooming rhododendron, the rose of Sharon, the yellow blossoms of the shamrock and the blue of the heather made the country beautiful, suggesting the question, ''Why is Ireland forsaken by its youth?' ' Our coachman said the stronger among the young men had gone to the war in South Africa, and an old man told us that seven of his children were in America, coming home occasionally on a visit, only to return again. The ride to Dublin was through fields in a state of perfect cultivation, small patches of wheat, oats and potatoes being on either side. Sleek cattle, in herds of ten, twelve and in one case thirty-five, were grazing in the fields. A few one-story cottages were to be seen, but no barns for the great quantity of grass which was ready for the sickle and which must be preserved in stacks. The dividing fences were either hedges or ridges of earth covered with ivy. As we sat at table at the Great Southern Hotel at Killarney, a landlord of Sherwood Forest said, "The poor do not own a foot of land, and if they did, they would soon spend it in drink." I 6 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. )fit| But to be always a tenant, with nine-tenths of the profit going as rental; to see no day in the future when one could be independent, seems enough to make the bravest heart seek in the bottle the pleasure that lasts but for the moment. On our way to Dublin the cars shot through distance like a cannon ball. A passenger counted the milestones, and the rec- ord was sixty to sixty-five miles an hour. We landed in a down- pour of rain, having passed the only dry day in two weeks at Kil- larney. Later, we drove out to St. Patrick's Cathedral, which is on the same ground on which St. Patrick built one. It is of grey stone. The interior is surrounded by a corridor, in which are many monuments, the finest being that of Archbishop Whately . Red tiles cover the floor. We next visited Phoenix Park, which contains 175 acres. In it is a monument to Wellington and also one to lyord Carlisle. The houses of Dublin, made of brick and stone, look as though they would withstand the ravages of all time; fires would have little to feed upon. Our meals at *'The Maples" were wholesome, consisting, in part, of good bread, and butter with- out salt, good coffee, delicious strawberry jam and orange mar- malade; but they were served in a very informal manner, the dishes being passed, for all to help themselves. CHAPTER II. GivASGow, Edinburgh, Abbottsford. ^ S we crossed the Irish Channel to Glasgow, we XjL passed Ayr, the birthplace of Burns, which was on the right, the seat of Hamilton and the place of Brandon being on the left. The Central Station Hotel, at Glasgow, is one of the finest in Great Britain, having three hundred rooms and the best of service. In our ride about the city, we saw such signs over shop doorways as "Fruiterer and Flow- ers," ''Tea Blender," ''Fish Monger," "Family Butcher," etc., showing a variation from American ways. Glasgow's Town Hall and the statues of Scott and Robert Peel were among the marks of interest. The Cathedral of St. Mungo is near the Acropolis, which stands on a high knoll, topped with the statue of John Knox. The cathedral has a "bridge of sighs," so-called, which passes over the railroad track, connecting the burial grounds with the building. In the churchyard are many tombstones, which lie fiat upon the ground, and are inscribed with this sort of epitaph: "Mr. Peter Ross Wright, a rope maker, now the property of Daniel McCorkel. ' ' ' 'James Barr, clothier. ' ' ' 'Alexander Scott, writer, ground 7-5 feet, died 1861, aged 76 years." The cathedral building is of pure Gothic architecture and was 250 years in construction, having been begun in 1666. It is four stories high, and as you enter you feel its loftiness, al- though from an outside view you do not get the same impression. The stained glass windows are lessons from the Bible. One 8 TRAVEI.S IN EUROPK. he| represented the prodigal son. In the first section was the pig h was feeding; in the next, himself in prayer, with an angel hover- ing over him; in the third, his father welcoming him as he re- turned home, and in the last, the fatted calf, with the prodigal's surly brother in the background. The interior is very much like that of a Catholic cathedral, a corridor running around the sec- ond story and being called "The Nun's Walk." Plain glass windows let in the light. Services are held in this cathedral every Sabbath by the Presbyterians. Only two other churches survived the period of the Reformation. We took cars down along the river Clyde to the Scottish lakes, where we found the pleasure boats around the eleven isles that dot them, crowded with excursionists. This was because of the vacation of two weeks that is given in July to employes. We there could study the typical Scotch character, with the red cheeks and the bonny blue eyes. Pure air, and plenty of it, must account for this highland characteristic. The hills around Lake Katrine are terraced by nature and the grass upon them is of a velvety green. Ellen's Isle, which contains but a few acres, is so densely wooded as to entirely hide the ground from view. Our boat, the Adder, stopped at many landings where were refreshment booths and swings, and from which bicycle paths led away, very much as at our home resorts. We soon reached our place for disembarking and, near a waterfall, entered our high ''brakes" or omnibusses — built with high seats to allow room for hand bags below — and took a ride of eight miles along the banks of the swiftly running stream. Then, as we were not booked for lunch at the first hotel we saw, we went on board another steamer, sailed across a second lake, took another ride, this time of four miles, and finally alighted at a hotel called "The GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, ABBOTTSFORD. 1 9 Trossachs." As it was three o'clock, our hungry crowd was scolding, but savory soups, roast beef with cabbage, potatoes and peas, followed by oat cakes with orange marmalade, soon brought quiet. The diet was not the same we had been accustomed to, coffee being served only at breakfast without extra charge, and no fruit being visible. However, the pure air had given us ap- petites, and we were a merry lot. After lunch, we again mounted our vehicles, which, by the way, we had to do by step-ladders, and as we passed along, we saw pheasants in little cotes, where they were being raised for market, large, fine sheep and fat cattle not unlike those from Texas. At last we were glad to roll down the steep hills to Callender, which is a village of one street, every house on which is of stone, two stories high and with most beautiful grounds of flowers and shrubs. A ride of forty miles brought us to Edinburgh, where dinner awaited us, it being six o'clock when we arrived. The meal con- sisted of soup, thick or thin, as we chose, roast beef with vege- tables, Victoria pudding and cheese, but no tea or coffee unless ordered and paid for as extract the table. The morning after our arrival, the party climbed into six large "brakes," containing from fifteen to twenty persons each, seats facing the front, with an aisle between the two rows, and went direct to Edinburgh Castle.. The road wound gradually up a high ascent, and when we arrived, the highlanders, in red coats and short breeches, and short plaid hose, which showed their bare legs, gave us a royal salute with pipe and drum. The banquet room, where the two Douglas boys were killed, is now used as an armory. The youngest, David, was only twelve years of age. He had been invited, with a thousand others, -to the feast, to be 20 TRAVELS IN EUROPE companion of the King, and although friends pleaded with him not to accept, he did so, and there, with the other Douglas, was murdered. A large stone is over a door on the exterior of the castle, and as it gave out a hollow sound, it was removed and in a cavit}^' was found the skeletou of an infant wrapped in cloth of gold. Margaret's Chapel is the oldest edifice of the castle grounds, having been built in 1093. I^ is a one-story, gabled house, of stone. In it we purchased photographs, which were on sale. The view from the castle wall looks over the whole city. It is Holyrood House. two hundred feet above Edinburgh and six hundred above sea level. We next descended to St. Giles Cathedral, and passed the quarters for married soldiers. St. Giles, or John Knox' church, is large enough for four congregations, and is now divided to accommodate that many. The picture of Knox preaching to the people is brilliant with color and is said to represent the scene GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, ABBOTTSFORD. 21 where, when a collect was given out, Jane of Guise threw a stool at the dean and turned the tide of feeling against it, and thus greatly advanced the Reformation. A slab is on a pillar, giving an account of the occurrence. Outside of St. Giles Cathedral is a raised platform, with a canopy, where proclamations of the city are announced. Oppo- site are the City Council Rooms. In an open court, well paved , is the grave of John Knox. An oval piece of brass on which is engraved "J- K. 1672" marks the place. After proceeding down the street in old Edinburgh where stands the red tiled house of John Knox, with its little porch on which he stood and preached to the people, we arrived at Holy rood Palace, This home of Mary, Queen of Scots is still kept as it was in her own deso- late life. The portrait of Darnley, her second husband, represents a young man (he was four years the queen's junior) with long black locks hanging around a ruddy, but hatchet-featured face with Mary, Queen of Scots. ^^^^ siuistcr CyeS, and of Small, Straight form. It seems small wonder that Mary soon saw through his character and was obliged to ask the protection of David Rizzio, who, both a musician and her private secretary, was devoted to the Queen's service. Darnley's jeal- ousy became so intense, as all readers of history know, that with the aid of dukes and earls who wanted to get rid of them both, he succeeded in accomplishing Rizzio' s murder in the very pres- 2 2 TRAVKIvS IN EUROPE. ence of the queen. But his triiimph was of short duration, as his own Hfe was soon after ended by his being blown up by gun- powder in a building in which he lay ill with small-pox. Bothwell, who afterward became the husband of Mary, w^as the perpetrator of the deed. It is also related that Bothwell' s treat- ment of Mary was such that at one time she was heard to cry out, ''Kill me! I do not care to live." We saw the stairway down which Rizzio's body was thrown, and the bed-room of Mary, which was afterwards used by Charles I. The tapestries, of Gobelin manufacture, are still preserved. The banquet room is lined with portraits of Scotland's distin- guished men and women. In the chapel, we saw the brass plate on which is inscribled the death of Darnley. This wonderful Holyrood House is a beautiful specimen of the architecture of the time in which it was erected. Stirling Castle, which is thirty-four miles from Edinburgh, was next visited. The ride was by steam cars and only occupied about thirty minutes. Within sight of Stirling Castle is Wal- lace's monument, which is on a hill behind which he kept the main part of his army when the English crossed the bridge and made the attack. Those concealed came to the rescue and the English were many of them drowned in their efforts to retreat. The armor worn in those days, judging from actual appearance, would certainly have sunk anyone who attempted to swim a river. The view from Stirling Castle is fine, with the battle-field of Ban- nockburn in the distance. The room in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was born, for Stirling was her birth-place, is a very small one, but has two windows and a fire-place. The dungeons are large, and with but one window, each of which has a large tri- ABBOTTSFORD. 23 angular sill, where, no doubt, the prisoner spent most of his time. We entered the royal cemetery and on one tomb saw the words: ^Throne of lyight, Word of God, lyight and Truth," whatever they may have meant being doubtful. As we came down the steep descent from Stirling village, we bought strawberries of very large size and the fine flavor of our wild ones at home, at the rate of two quarts for twenty-five cents. Edinburgh is a good place to shop in, being modern in every way. Its street cars carry a double number, not by the American way, but by having extra rows of seats on the top. The public parks are clean and attractive, and the monument of some noble citizen stands at nearly every street crossing. Abbottsford. The home of Walter Scott nestles in the hills, not showing itself until one is at the very gate. Other fine residences are on different knolls not far away, and are seen from a distance. After going down the driveway we ascended some steps and were at the front door, which opens upon a beautiful lawn with flowers of various hues in small oval or cresent-shaped beds. (We were in England at the time of rose blossoms and yellow calcolaria.) The room into which the front door opens is oblong, perhaps twelve by twenty feet. In it is a large mantel, upon which are three skulls. One is that of Robert Bruce, a head with a won- derful development of the posterior portion and larger than the others, which are those of men of less note. On a table is a mar- ble bust of Wordsworth, which shows a long oval face, narrow at the chin and in an exceedingly pensive and contemplative mood. 24 TRAVKLS IN EUROPE. lyibrary at Abbottsford. We passed on into the library, where, in the center of the room, was the chair Sir Walter Scott occupied while writing, and which stood before his table. From this room we entered an- other and larger library room, the whole contain- ing many thousand vol- umes. In this room is the original bust of Scott, in marble, from which all others have been cast. In the alcove of a bay window looking out on adjacent hills, stood a circular table, and under a glass upon it were various presents that had been given to the author. A gold snuff box, portraits of Mrs. Scott, upon ivory, and locks of hair of Napoleon and Wellington were among the articles. Their arrangement was by Sir Walter him- self. In the next room visited were many portraits, one being of Scott's mother, whom he greatly resembles, and of whom an amusing story is told. It is said that when Sir Walter's father was a young man, his father placed a pair of spurs on the break- fast meat-platter and said: "You must provide meat for our table." In the effort to win his spurs, the son resorted to steal- ing some sheep, and being caught in the act, was arrested, but was promised release if he would marry the owner's daughter. Young Scott asked to see her, but her mouth was so large, he said he preferred to go to jail. When there, however, the young ■ ABBOTTSFORD. 25 lady's visits were frequent and kind, and he finally concluded she should be his wife. In the feature of the mouth, particularly. Sir Walter greatly resembles his mother. Full length portraits of Scott's two daughters show them dressed in Highland costume. There is also a portrait of Mrs. Maxwell Scott, the grand-daughter who preserves Abbottsford so perfectly, but who was on the continent at the time of our visit. The portrait is of life size and represents Mrs. Scott seated in a chair and dressed in white satin, with an abundance of rich white lace on waist and skirt. She has an oval face with rather a sharp nose, but regular features and a pleasing, refined expression. Sir Walter's portrait is above a mantel-piece, and next to it is that of his wife, who was a Miss Carpenter. The latter was painted in the younger days of the original and represents her with dark hair and eyes. On another vSide of the same room hung a life size portrait of Oliver Cromwell. He resembles a clergyman of the old school, with high, receding forehead, long, straight nose, hatchet-face, flushed with color, and sharp eyes with a far-away look in them, as though he might be contemplating what ought to and could be accomplished for the cause of God and humanity. The convents so corrupt, his look says, must be razed; the places where ambi- tious youths were being destroyed by unscrupulous monks, must be torn down, and their paraphernalia burned. We had but just come from Muckross Abbey and Inverness and Ross castles, in Ireland, where we had seen how complete the destruction had been. The evidence plainly shows that this man was used to ac- complish God's designs. It was an inspiration to look at his por- trait, and gave rise to the hope that another such man would be raised up in the 20th century to attack our breweries and 26 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. distilleries in the same way. No money can rebuild the human wrecks they make, the slaves to appetite they create. And their victims would help in their destruction; for, as a former Cleve- land, Ohio, judge said when he voted the Prohibition ticket, ''Would you not crush the serpent that bites you?" In another room, very like an armory, were the two pistols of Napoleon, taken at the battle of Waterloo, and over the doorwa^^ was a bas- relief of Scott. CHAPTER III. Chester Cathedrai., IvOndon Museum, Nationai, Art GaIvLERY. E crowded into our vehicles, adjusted our umbrellas to \ILr shield us from the drippings of a heavy thunder shower that was on and proceeded to Melrose Abbey. The heart of Robert Bruce is buried here, that hav- ing been his wish. Melrose was once restored by Bruce, and was, consequently, dear to him. The carved window frames of stone are vStill intact; in- deed, it is said that the stone out of which they are made is the hardest known. We went to a Melrose hotel for lunch, which was well prepared and bounti- ful. Strawberries, which were large and sweet, were served in their hulls. A short walk brought us to the train. We entered a build- ing, went up a flight of stairs and were on a platform close to the cars. These cars have two compartment; one of seats for four, opposite each other, and a smaller one with seats for one on each side of the doors. Our large company was thus divided into half dozens, and became well acquainted by the interchange of opinions, books and photographs. Chester, which we reached at eight o'clock, is on the border of Wales, only one mile from the River Dee, which separates the two countries. It has the oldest cathedral in Great Britain, and a stone wall a mile and three-quarters in length, in a good state of preservation, still partly encircles the town. The old castle of the place, Derby, is now used as a barracks, and a street lined 28 TRAVKI.S IN EUROPE. with two-Story shops is called ''The Row." The upper stories of the shops have a porch upon which the stores open, making a business place above, and one below. In some instances the upper story projects over the sidewalk, giving a good view up and down the street. A large clock hung in the middle of the street, as we often see electric lights in America. Sunday we went to Gladstone's church, at Hawarden, eight miles distant. Two omni- busses, each with three horses abreast, were filled with members of our party. The road was through Hough Green, a resident street of new, two-story, brick houses, with small yards filled with flower-beds and pebbled walks. We passed by trees of beech, maple and oak, and then through acres of pasture and grain lands to Broughton, the station where Gladstone took the cars for London; then past the Home For Indigent Poor, built by him, and then onto his estate. This estate was the dower of Mrs. Gladstone, who was a Miss Gwinne. In Hawarden village is a stone fountain, erected at the time of Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone's golden wedding, on one side of which is the bust of the great premier, and on the other that of his wife. Above the fountain is the inscription: ''Drink ye the water." The fountain is ar- ranged to accommodate both man and beast. The cathedral stands at the end of a lane, and is substantial Gladstone's Church, Hawarden. CHKvSTKR CATHKDRAIv. 29 looking. The services had begun, and a boy choir was chanting the responses. Stephen Gladstone, the rector, who is the son of the premier, was not present, but his assistant gave the sermon. It began thus: 'Xife, what is it ? Science does not tell us what it is. lyife is a mystery. The spirit returns to God who gave it. God calls it to enjoy His presence forever. But how is this to be gained? Not by wishing or praying, it musi be by action. 'I'he woman spoken of in my text did more; she went to Christ, touched his garment, and was healed. There is a truth for us, we must ourselves draw near. ' ' The congregation was large and the collection plates well filled. The same evening we attended a concert of Mendelsohn's "Hymns of Praise," in the old cathe- dral of Chester. Every seat was filled and many were obliged to stand, although the cathedral seats three thousand. This was the first rehearsal of a festival lasting three days. The noted brass bands of Lancaster and the unequaled voices of York were trained by the organist, Mr. Bridges, whose brother is organist at Westminster Abbey. A lady lent us the use of the score, which we closely followed. The music was grand, yet smooth and sweet in its cadences. The great organ was used at the opening, and the vaulted roof and great space gave a volume of sound seldom heard. The lady previously spoken of had been a member of the cathedral choir for twenty-five years, and she told us that Archbishop Pearson, whose monument stood on one side of the aisle, had published many books, and had revised the creed of the Episcopal church. The revised creed, she said, was used in America, and Dean Howson had collected much money in our country with which to repair the Chester Cathedral. The Duke of Westminister had, she said, left a legacy for the same purpose. 30 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. Pall Mall. The London Museum. The London Museum, which ivS on Brompton Road, is a large, new building, with room for many more exhibits than it now has. As one en- ters, the statue of Thomas Henry Huxley, attracts the notice, the heavy eyebrows, prominent, indented chin and general appearance indicating a man of power. He was born in 1825 and died in 1895. ^t the entrance to the second gallery is the statue of Charles Darwin in a sitting posture. He, also, has heavy eyebrows, which hang over eyes that seem to recede into his head. He has a long beard and a wrinkled forehead, but withal a pleasing expression. Both of these gentlemen seem to greet the visitor, with their eyes, in a friendly way. The large trees of California are represented by a section ninety feet in circumference, cut from a tree at a height of eigh- teen feet from the ground. Near a sign reading, "Adaptation of external covering to the conditions of life," were birds of the color of the yellow sand in which they were rollicking; a group of white birds and rabbits on white, chalky ground, and speckled birds on speckled ground. The remains of mastodons and many other prehistoric animals are in the wing to the left, and it would seem that at least inland w^aters must have been deeper and broader than now to have given room for such monsters to bathe or live in. And yet they were all made to master the conditions in which they were placed. THK I.ONDON MUSEUM. 31 On the second floor were animals of the present day. Im- mense giraffes, that could browse on the leaves of tall trees, but must spread their forelegs apart to graze or drink. There were Indian buffaloes with horns peculiarly broad at the base and hair coming down on the forehead and parted in the middle, suggesting that they might have set the fashion for some women. There were also Japanese, Thibetan and polar bears and sloths and weasels. In the exhibit of marble, there was the rare Persian blue marble. There was Deccan Indian foliage, in agate; cats-eye quartz and quartz from South Africa with stripes like a gold and black ribbon.. Humming birds with bills that would reach into flower tubes six inches long, were among the rare sights. In fishes, there were the red finned king fish, the jelly fish, the sea anemone, the squid and other curiosities. Children of all ages and sizes were running through the halls of the museum and examining all the exhibits. There seemed to be no obstacles placed in the way of English children in gain- ing definite ideas in natural history and the classification of animals. In the Albert Memorial, near Hyde Park, beside the groups at the corners representing Europe, Asia, Africa and America, there is, below the statue, which is in gold, a frieze of Homer playing the harp, while in a listening at- Albert Memorial. ^itudc are, Dautc, Virgil, Cervantes, MoUiere, Corneille, Ambrose, Guido, Rosini, Shakespeare, Milton, Goethe, Schiller, Bach, Handel, 32 . TRAVKI.S IN EUROPK. Mozart, Hayden, Bartholomew, Tullis, Purcell, Auber, Necker Rosseau, Sully and others. Nationai, Art GaIvIvKry. As we entered the Art Gallery a heavy shower occurred and lightning flashed over the windows in the ceiling. The artists ceased work, and the dark clouds made it difficult to see any bu the brightest of the paintings. In the first gallery, on the left is a portrait of Hogarth, near to one of his sister and man others he had painted. His ruddy cheeks and large, round face give him a youthful appearance. In the next room was a por trait of Gilbert Stewart, who might have passed for a younge brother of George WavShington, and who made the picture of him,'' which is so universally admired. It was an idealized likeness, no doubt. Near the portrait of Stewart is that of Mrs. Siddons, which has been duplicated many times by artists. The youthful Christ embracing St. John, by Guido, was particularly attractive, from the fair, open countenance, regular features, light hair, oval face and modern appearance of Jesus, and the ruddy cheeks and natural look of St. John. Both appeared young and looked as though they might step from the canvas. One of the visiting artists had painted a copy of two 1 ttle pug dogs so knowing looking and so bright in contrast of color as to make it as pretty as anything in sight. Landseer's Sleepnig Bloodhound and a canine head by him were strikingly lifelike. Near these were Constable's landscapes, ''The Hay Field," ''The Valley" and "The Hay Wagon." They were dark with age, but exceedingly full of interest. Murillo's "Drinking Cup" shows a boy with a bottle of wine in one hand and a tumbler half full in the other, looking up at us from the canvas. It seems a NATIONAIv ART GAI,I,BRY. 33 pity to immortalize a custom that tends to so much misery. The habit of using intoxicants is begun early in I^ondon, the absence of cool water and the usual table drinks used in America mak- ing it natural to resort to wine, beer or ale. The day of our visit to the art gallery was the first time we had been informed that we could have tea and coffee at all meals without extra charge. We passed on to the room having a copy of the picture of the '* Infant Jesus" by Salvator Rosa. The portrait has a dark green background, and Jesus is represented as a bright little boy looking intently at his mother. There is the plumpness of child- ish limbs, with dimples in the knees. The artist has repre- sented only the boy— not the Christ, and if the picture graced the walls of a private residence it might easily be taken as that of a household pet. ''History in canvas" may be the reason given for the existence of such paintings — or was it need of the money paid by the church to the artists ? The collection of Turner occupied one large room, and some were being copied by different artists. This exhibition was fascinating, but seemed hardly of this world. There was a blinding effect of color that rendered outlines in- distinct and made it impossible to view the pictures with pleasure, except at a distance. We did not need Ruskin to tell us of their worth, yet, no doubt, without his commendation they would not be estimated as highly as they are. There were portraits by Joshua Reynolds, and a very fine one of Gladstone. CHAPTER IV. Guilford, Kenilworth Castle, Warwick Castle. Guilford. EING a descendent of John Parmlin, now called Parmly , Jj who joined the persecuted Hugenots in the Island of Guernsey and afterwards went to Guilford, England; and wishing to obtain some information regarding his son, John Parmlin, Jr., who came with the colony from Guilford to New Haven, Connecticut, early in the 17th century, I secured a pleasant traveling com- panion, in Miss Mabel Russell, and started from lyondon, at Waterloo station, the ride to Guilford, being one of only two hours. On arriving, we went first to St. Mary's Church, which is a very old but well-preserved structure, cruciform in shape and with a square tower. The ceil- ing was high and the windows were of stained glass. On the walls were several brass tablets with inscriptions in black letters. One read: "To the glory of God and the loving memory of Zeb. Few, for years rector of this parish, died Sept. 18, 1879." An- other was to "Mary Knowles, daughter of John and Mary Allen, aet 16 yrs. 1741." There was also one to "Philip Lovejoy," and one to "Harriet Eockwood." We left the church, crossed a bridge and went up a street lined with stores and shops. A sign on a hotel read: "Pot of tea, roll and butter, 4d." In a book store we bought views of the place, and the lady in charge pointed the way to the old castle of the town, which was in a well kept park. The four gray walls were about forty feet high and in a fair state of preservation. STRATFORD-ON-AVON. 35 As we returned toward the railroad station a lady pointed out St. Nichol's Church, which is still older than St. Mary's. We entered a gateway and followed a diagonal path leading past numerous upright slabs (they are usually laid flat) to the door, which we opened by turning a big ring, and found ourselves in a quiet resting place. There were cushions for the knees when in prayer, oiie lying ia front of each chair. There were no pews in these churches. On the return trip to London I made the acquaintance of Mrs. Algernon Stewart, of Wickworth Hall, Goddenning, Eng- land, and have since had the pleasure of corresponding with her regarding the ancestral line of descent that took me to Guilford. STR ATFORD-ON- A VON . Strat ford-on- Avon is a market town in the southwestern part of Warwickshire, not far from London. William Shakespeare w^as born in the year of 1564, in a two-story gabled house on Henley street. The room we first entered was a butcher shop of his father John Shakespeare. A large fireplace is on one side, and a wooden staircase leads to the noted birth-room above. The small window-panes in this room have many autographs of dis- tinguished visitors, among them those of Sir Walter Scott and Thomas Carlyle. The library, or museum, contains many memen- toes besides Shakespeare's bust. To the curator we said, ''Whose grave is it, in the church yard, that bears the name of Rose?" He replied, ''My name is Rose," and when I said my hus- band was entertained by the Lord Mayor of London because his name was Rose, he replied, "That was Sir Philip Rose, the great friend of Lord Beaconsfield. It is a very common name in England." 36 TRAVKIvS IN KUROPK. New Place is where Shakespeare came to live in the days of his prosperity. The first tree he planted was a mulberry, and it was cut down by a Rev. Francis Gastnell, because he was so pestered by visitors desiring to see it. Shakespeare lies buried in Trinity Church, the flagstone over the place bearing this inscription : ''Good friend, for Jesus sake, forbear To dig the dust enclosed heare; Blest be the man who spares these stones And curst be he who moves my bones. ' ' On the wall is the monumental bust by Gerard Johnson mod- eled from a cast taken after death. The eyes are light hazel and full-orbed, the hair auburn, the chin set, and forehead towering, the whole head being well poised and massive. When twelve years of age he attended, probably, the tournaments given by Earl of I^eicester at Kenilworth Castle for Queen Elizabeth. At 1 8 years he married, and two years later went to lyondon because arrested for poaching on a nobleman's preserves. A relative by the name of Green, engaged in Black Friars Theater, got him a situation as call-boy; and Goethe, speaking of him, said: "It is easy to understand the rapid strides with which a superior man reaches the summit in any career into which he has once obtained admission." He went to lyondon in 1584, and his first work appeared in 1590. It is thought he spent his time on works that were not his own, as one of the actors called him ''An upstart crow beautified with our feathers." His manuscript contained scarcely an erasure. At that time dramatic representations were the favorite amusements of the most distinguished men, and dramatic poetry I OXFORD. 37 was numbered among the national pleasures; so Shakespeare made his plays the acts of kings and courtiers, where human life was made to pass before the view as a brilliant reflection of the real. Four years after obtaining Black Friars Theater he returned to Stratford and became a religious man. In two years he died, of what disease is not known. It is said he never bestowed much labor on either his work or his glory, and was vexed but little with a craving after success, being more inclined to doubt its value. Oxford. Oxford is a city associated with great names. John Wickliffe hexe taught and thought, sowing the seeds that produced the Re- formation. The first printing press in England was established here in 1468. The London Gazette, the oldest English news- paper, was established here in 1665. I^atimer and Eidly were here burned at the stake. Erasmus studied at St. Mary's Col- lege; Jeremy Taylor at All Souls; John Wesley at Chi istchurch ; Dr. Johnson and Whitfield were Pembroke men, and Henry V, Edward the Black Prince, and Edward VII each studied in one of the twenty-six colleges. A university library was first begun by arranging some chests in a room over the vaulted chamber eavSt of the Tower of St. Mary's, in 1327. The present building was begun in 1445. Edward VI burned the books having a ten- dency to Romanism, and in 1597 Sir ly. Bodley, of Merton Col- lege, refounded the library and named it the Bodleion; being per- suaded he could not busy himself to any better purpose than by converting the place to the public use of students. It has 470,000 books and 26,000 manuscripts. A picture gallery contains a col- lection of portraits of university benefactors. A card says, ' 'Touch what you like with your eyes, but do not see with your fingers." 38 TRAVELS IN KUROPR. We were in Christchurch dining hall, and looked with pleasure at two portraits done by Herkonier, father of a Cleve- land artist. We passed through the broad walk lined with oak trees of great growth, saw the old school tower, the cloisters ot the new college, and Addison's walk, and rode through High street to the Isis, where are many 3^achts of the students that are in the regattas on the Thames. Kenilworth Castle. Kenilworth took its name from Kenelph, a Saxon King of Mercia. Henry I, son of William the Con- queror, granted the estate to his chamberlain, Geof- frey de Clinton, in 1115, and in 11 20 Clinton built the keep and kitchen, the '^ ' ^ "^ outer defences and moats, Kenilworth Castle. g^jld the priory of St. Au- gustine. Henry II of Anjou and Normandy, in 1 154, ordered all castles destroyed, but seized this castle and garrisoned it against his rebellious sons Henry and Richard, and held it for eight years. In 1 1 75 Geoffrey de Clinton the younger had possession and built lyumm's tower and a great hall and chapel. In 1181 Henry II again seized the castle, but died in Normandy in 1 189, Richard the lyion Hearted succeeding him. Henry, grandson of the founder, relinquished his right to the castle to King John in 1200, but had built the Swan tower, water tower, Mortimer's tower, gallery tower, tilt yard and bridges. Pope Adrian V resided in the castle in 1238. KKNII^WORTH CASTLK. 39 In 1254, Henry III granted a lease of Kenilwortli to Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and his wife Eleanor, who was a sister of the king, for their lives; yet two years later, during the "'war of the barons," he beseiged it. He was repulsed, however, and in 1264, after the battle of Lewes, he, with his brother Rich- ard of Cornwall, and Robert Bruce were imprisoned in the castle by Sir Simon de Montfort. At the battle of Eversham, de Mont- fort was slain and his possessions confiscated to the king. The Pope's legate advised a parliament to be held at Kenilworth, and by common consent the bishops of six dioceses were empowered to choose six others and "do what was best for the peace and security of the land. ' ' Their decision was that those in open rebel- lion should have the privilege "to redeem their estates by pecuni- ary fines. ' ' This decision is called ' 'The dictum de Kenilworth. ' ' Two Knight Templars were imprisoned in the castle in 1307, and their shields are vStill seen cut in the stone of their prison. The deepest dungeon of the keep at Kenilworth held Edward II while his resignation of the crown in favor of his son, Edward III, was wrung from him; and Roger Mortimer revelled in the •castle halls while his sovereign languished in its dungeons. In 1446 Eleanor Cobham, the "lively but unlucky Duchess of Glou- cester,'' was imprisoned at Kenilw^orth, and about 1520 Henry VIII built his state apartments there. When Queen Elizabeth ascended the throne, she made Robert Dudley, son of the Duke of Northumberland, Knight of the Gar- ter, Master of Horse and member of the Privy Council, and gave him Kenilworth Castle; and many years afterwards when Eliza- beth visited Kenilworth, Dudley, then Earl of Leicester, built a new bridge over the moat that she "might enter the castle by a path hitherto untrodden." The castle was again confiscated by 40 TRAVKI.S IN EUROPE. the crown in 1603, about the time of Elizabeth's death, and was given to Prince Henry, and later to Prince Charles. In 1618, Sir Walter Raleigh was beheaded in the tower. All this history had lent a charm to Kenilworth Castle before our party entered its arched gateway, walked through a lane bor- dered with blooming roses, then up a grassy lawn and saw its time-and-battled- scarred, but massive walls looming fifty feet high be- fore us. As we approached, the broad surface showec but few openings for lightj but around to the left we discovered that the walls were fully six feet thick, a man being able to lie at ful length across a window sill. In Mervyn's tower a staircase formerly occupied each corner, but are now gone to decay. We passed through a grass - grown enclosure to Queen Elizabeth's rooms, which were in the second story of another building from that first inspected. A bay-window occupied the entire side of the main room and looked out on an open court, which had a place for a fountain. An open grate with chimney was on one Amy Robsart. WARWICK CASTI^K. 41 side, and a separate stairway led to this one room. Elizabeth could see the Earl of Leicester's building from her own. The Leicester building ran up five stories as square as a chimney. The lower room could well have been used as a dungeon. In the rear of Elizabeth's building was the octagon tower room where it is supposed Amy Robsart, Leicester's wife, was confined by him. It has an outlook on the open country. In an enclosed grass plat V ' , 4 ■ i mi Mp..i||||F^^ ^^HH ^^S^^^^^^^V; ^^^^^S 1 s^^^^^^^ ^m ^^m^^^ Warwick Castle. below we saw a company of children, with their teachers or nurses, enjoying a picnic. The road from Kenil worth to V/arwick Castle has been made historic from the many who have traversed in the past, the same broad way, fifty to seventy feet wide and hard as a floor. On one side are forest trees of great age, and on the other, well-tilled 42 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. farm lands. Some pretty villas were to be seen, one owned by a man who had made his money in the manufacture of pins, in Bir- mingham, and another who had made his fortune in lamps. As we entered the grounds of Warwick Castle, a carriage containing I^ady Warwick passed us. We noticed that she held the lines, wore gauntlets, and was beautiful. We first saw Csesar's tower, which has a clock and a sun-dial, and then walked around a circular drive to a grass plat where were pea-fowls in great numbers — standing like statues or spread- ing their gorgeous trains. Stray feathers were scattered about, which the children of the party gathered up as souvenirs. In cages were a raccoon, a monkey and other animals. A guide next took us to the entrance to the castle, where hung six large rifles in a row, and swords, spears and armor of all kinds. We then visited the room of Queen Anne, which has a portrait of her above the mantel, and full length portraits of Lord and Lady Brooke. Gobelin tapestries are on the walls, and pieces of inlaid and gilded furniture— wardrobes, chairs and sofas, are placed about the room. The ''green room" came next, which is of a very delicate shade of green, with hard wood floor. Then came the "red room," the noticeable features of which were its portraits of noted people and heavy glass chandeliers. All the rooms were of medium size and very home-like in appearance. The rooms occupied by the family were not on exhibition. We crossed a campus through exquisite flower gardens, to a building much like a conservatory, to see the Roman vase brought to England by the Earl of Warwick, and said to have been taken from a lake near Rome, then followed the drive to the gate and took our great wagons to Leamington Spa, the best watering place in England. In this town were stone villas hedged in with WARWICK CASTI.K. 43 holly or cedar, with bright flowers and graveled walks, and each having its name on one of the gate posts. It was easy to see the benefit of the high hedges as we drove into the yard at Manor House. Although on a dusty highway, it seemed as clean, cool and quiet as if in the country. Who cares to see carts, hacks and pedestrians, when one can see flowers, statuary and fountains, and trees with seats in their shade? CHAPTER V. Westminster Abbey, Windsor Castile, Canterbury Cathedral. Westminster Abbey. This ancient edifice, which has been the scene of many coro- nations and pompous pageants and was at one time the meeting place of Parhament, is one of the great attractions of London. It stands in front of an open park and close to London Bridge, where cabs and carriages pass in great numbers, making it easy of access. The first view of the exterior is somewhat dissappoint- ing, as the dark gray stone of which it is built does not at once reveal the ornateness of its architecture. It stands on the site of a Benedictine monastery founded by St. Dunstan and built upon Thorny Island, a small area of land bounded on the east by the Thames, on the north and south by small streams running into the Thames and on the west by a moat. In 1065, Edward the Confessor replaced the simple monastery of St. Dunstan by a massive structure in the Norman style of architecture and cruci- form in shape, which defied the lapse of time for 200 years. Some time in the early part of the 13th century. King Henry III razed the walls of this Norman structure and built a more mag- nificent one in honor of Edward, still holding to the cruciform shape, which has not been changed, although the building was in process of construction through several centuries and a number WKSTMINSTKR ABBKY. 45 of additions to it have been made. In Queen Elizabeth's time the name "Westminster Abbey" was changed to ''The Collegiate Church of St. Peter;" the monastery having been dissolved and a college church established. But the time-honored edifice is still Westminster Abbey to England and all the world, and will, probably, always remain so. For 300 years the House of Commons met in the Chapter House of Westminster Abbey. When the Abbey was dissolved, the Chapter House became national property, and was used as a record office up to 1863. In 1865 it was restored to its pristime splendor, and its beautiful windows are now filled with illustra- tions of English history as blended with that of the Abbey. In the days of the monastery, the abbot and his ofiicers met weekly in this place to judge offenders, and punished such by scourging at a whipping post which then stood in the center of the room. The old dormitory of the monks has been converted into a large hall called The Great School, and what is now called The College Hall was the dining-room of the monastery. The Chapter Library is an interesting collection gathered by Dean Williams, the last churchman who held the Great Seal of Eng- land, and who was both Dean of Westminster and Archbishop of York. There is also a ''Jerusalem Chamber," once the abbot's parlor, and which got its name from the tapestry with which it was first hung, there having been scenes from the Holy I^and represented upon it. In this room occurred the dramatic death of Henry IV. As you enter the door between the two great towers, you find yourself in the Abbey nave, which is 166 feet long. To the left, in the Statemen's Corner, is the statue of Sir Robert Peel, Prime Minister in 1834, then Admiral Warren, and then Lord 46 TRAVELS IN EUROPE. Beaconsfield, who asked not to be buried there, but whose statue is placed there to his memory. There is also a statue of William Pitt. To the right there is a gallery where are bas-reliefs of John and Charley Wesley, and where Major Andre, famous in English and infamous in American history, is immortalized. The poet's corner is on the opposite side, and in it are busts of famous poets, among them one of our own, lyongfellow. There are, also, the tombs of Browning, Tennyson, Chaucer and many others. As is well known, the Abbey is now noted as the burial place of famous men of all ranks and creeds and forms of genius. As we lingered in one of the galleries, some workingmen were changing the position of a body, the feet of which were wTapped in red flannel. We did not stop to see whose remains were being disturbed, but hastened on with an increased belief in cremation. The chapel of Henry VII is a very fine structure, and in it are buried Mary, Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth and many others of the rulers of England. Wax effigies of noted persons were once borne at funerals, and were set up in the Abbey, often filling the place of permanent monuments. Of the eleven still preserved, that of Charles II stood for two centuries above his grave. The figure of Lord Nelson has on the very clothes he wore except the coat. The Coronation Chair was made to the order of Edward I, and is said to contain the stone on which Jacob rested his head at Bethel. How much of truth or fable there may be in the story is not known, but that every sovereign of England sinc< Edward I, excepting Edward V, has been crowned in this chair is a matter of history. The coronation cermon^^ is performed by the Archbishop of Canterbury, and at its conclusion, the HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 47 . |:;^■:fll^!illPI^I iil^^^s^^Hi HHHnflHKS mf\,:.y^ ^v/Mw; .^^''^'J- V 'tt.r.'i C°\' M O -A- % O., 'o^.l''' .♦^ -• ^^^--^^ *. - o- '^^ ' ^^^ DOBBSBROS. ^ LISRARy BINDINS ST. AUGUSTINE C ^''i^rOTTp^ ^* ^ % o • J. ^ A, o c^